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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN
+LANDS, VOLUME 1 ***
+
+
+
+
+[Transcriber's note: Footnotes moved to the end of the text]
+
+
+
+
+SUNNY MEMORIES
+
+OF
+
+FOREIGN LANDS.
+
+BY
+
+MRS. HARRIET BEECHER STOWE,
+
+AUTHOR OF "UNCLE TOM'S CABIN," ETC.
+
+  ... "When thou haply seest
+  Some rare note-worthy object in thy travels,
+  Make me partaker of thy happiness."
+
+  SHAKSPEARE.
+
+ILLUSTRATED FROM DESIGNS BY HAMMATT BILLINGS.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+VOL. I.
+
+BOSTON:
+PHILLIPS, SAMPSON, AND COMPANY.
+NEW YORK: J.C. DERBY.
+1854.
+
+
+Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by PHILLIPS,
+SAMPSON, AND COMPANY, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the
+District of Massachusetts.
+
+STEREOTYPED AT THE BOSTON STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY. WRIGHT AND HASTY,
+PRINTERS, NO. 3 WATER ST.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+This book will be found to be truly what its name denotes, "Sunny
+Memories."
+
+If the criticism be made that every thing is given _couleur de rose_,
+the answer is, Why not? They are the impressions, as they arose, of a
+most agreeable visit. How could they be otherwise?
+
+If there be characters and scenes that seem drawn with too bright a
+pencil, the reader will consider that, after all, there are many worse
+sins than a disposition to think and speak well of one's neighbors. To
+admire and to love may now and then be tolerated, as a variety, as well
+as to carp and criticize. America and England have heretofore abounded
+towards each other in illiberal criticisms. There is not an unfavorable
+aspect of things in the old world which has not become perfectly
+familiar to us; and a little of the other side may have a useful
+influence.
+
+The writer has been decided to issue these letters principally, however,
+by the persevering and deliberate attempts, in certain quarters, to
+misrepresent the circumstances which, are here given. So long as these
+misrepresentations affected only those who were predetermined to believe
+unfavorably, they were not regarded. But as they have had some
+influence, in certain cases, upon really excellent and honest people, it
+is desirable that the truth should be plainly told.
+
+The object of publishing these letters is, therefore, to give to those
+who are true-hearted and honest the same agreeable picture of life and
+manners which met the writer's own, eyes. She had in view a wide circle
+of friends throughout her own country, between whose hearts and her own
+there has been an acquaintance and sympathy of years, and who, loving
+excellence, and feeling the reality of it in themselves, are sincerely
+pleased to have their sphere of hopefulness and charity enlarged. For
+such this is written; and if those who are not such begin to read, let
+them treat the book as a letter not addressed to them, which, having
+opened by mistake, they close and pass to the true owner.
+
+The English reader is requested to bear in mind that the book has not
+been prepared in reference to an English but an American public, and to
+make due allowance for that fact. It would have placed the writer far
+more at ease had there been no prospect of publication in England. As
+this, however, was unavoidable, in some form, the writer has chosen to
+issue it there under her own sanction.
+
+There is one acknowledgment which the author feels happy to make, and
+that is, to those publishers in England, Scotland, France, and Germany
+who have shown a liberality beyond the requirements of legal obligation.
+The author hopes that the day is not far distant when America will
+reciprocate the liberality of other nations by granting to foreign
+authors those rights which her own receive from them.
+
+The _Journal_ which appears in the continental tour is from the pen of
+the Rev. C. Beecher. The _Letters_ were, for the most part, compiled
+from what was written at the time and on the spot. Some few were
+entirely written after the author's return.
+
+It is an affecting thought that several of the persons who appear in
+these letters as among the living, have now passed to the great future.
+The Earl of Warwick, Lord Cockburn, Judge Talfourd, and Dr. Wardlaw are
+no more among the ways of men. Thus, while we read, while we write, the
+shadowy procession is passing; the good are being gathered into life,
+and heaven enriched by the garnered treasures of earth.
+
+H.B.S.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY.
+
+LETTER I.
+The Voyage.
+
+LETTER II.
+Liverpool.--The Dingle.--A Ragged School.--Flowers.--Speke
+Hall.--Antislavery Meeting.
+
+LETTER III.
+Lancashire.--Carlisle.--Gretna Green.--Glasgow.
+
+LETTER IV.
+The Baillie.--The Cathedral.--Dr. Wardlaw.--A Tea Party--Bothwell
+Castle.--Chivalry.--Scott and Burns.
+
+LETTER V.
+Dumbarton Castle.--Duke of Argyle.--Linlithgow.--Edinburgh.
+
+LETTER VI.
+Public Soirée.--Dr. Guthrie.--Craigmiller Castle.--Bass
+Rock.--Bannockburn.--Stirling.--Glamis Castle.--Barclay of Ury.--The
+Dee.--Aberdeen.--The Cathedral.--Brig o'Balgounie.
+
+LETTER VII.
+Letter from a Scotch Bachelor.--Reformatory Schools of
+Aberdeen.--Dundee.--Dr. Dick.--The Queen in Scotland.
+
+LETTER VIII.
+Melrose.--Dry burgh.--Abbotsford.
+
+LETTER IX.
+Douglas of Caver.--Temperance Soirée.--Calls.--Lord Gainsborough.--Sir
+William Hamilton.--George Combe.--Visit to Hawthornden.--Roslin
+Castle.--The Quakers.--Hervey's Studio.--Grass Market.--Grayfriars'
+Churchyard.
+
+LETTER X.
+Birmingham.--Stratford on Avon.
+
+LETTER XI.
+Warwick.--Kenilworth.
+
+LETTER XII.
+Birmingham.--Sybil Jones.--J.A. James.
+
+LETTER XIII.
+London.--Lord Mayor's Dinner.
+
+LETTER XIV.
+London.--Dinner with Earl of Carlisle.
+
+LETTER XV.
+London.--Anniversary of Bible Society.--Dulwich Gallery.--Dinner with
+Mr. E. Cropper.--Soirée at Rev. Mr. Binney's.
+
+LETTER XVI.
+Reception at Stafford House.
+
+LETTER XVII.
+The Sutherland Estate.
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+Baptist Noel.--Borough School.--Rogers the Poet.--Stafford
+House.--Ellesmere Collection of Paintings.--Lord John Russell.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY
+
+
+The following letters were written by Mrs. Stowe for her own personal
+friends, particularly the members of her own family, and mainly as the
+transactions referred to in them occurred. During the tour in England
+and Scotland, frequent allusions are made to public meetings held on her
+account; but no report is made of the meetings, because that
+information, was given fully in the newspapers sent to her friends with
+the letters. Some knowledge of the general tone and spirit of the
+meetings seems necessary, in order to put the readers of the letters in
+as favorable a position to appreciate them as her friends were when they
+were received. Such knowledge it is the object of this introductory
+chapter to furnish.
+
+One or two of the addresses at each of several meetings I have given,
+and generally without alteration, as they appeared in the public
+journals at the time. Only a very few could be published without
+occupying altogether too much space; and those selected are for the most
+part the shortest, and chosen mainly on account of their brevity. This
+is certainly a surer method of giving a true idea, of the spirit which
+actually pervaded the meetings than could be accomplished by any
+selection of mere extracts from the several speeches. In that case,
+there might be supposed to exist a temptation to garble and make unfair
+representations; but in the method pursued, such a suspicion is scarcely
+possible. In relation to my own addresses, I have sometimes taken the
+liberty to correct the reporters by my own recollections and notes. I
+have also, in some cases, somewhat abridged them, (a liberty which I
+have not, to any considerable extent, ventured to take with others,)
+though without changing the sentiment, or even essentially the form, of
+expression. What I have here related is substantially what I actually
+said, and what I am willing to be held responsible for. Many and bitter,
+during the tour, were the misrepresentations and misstatements of a
+hostile press; to which I offer no other reply than the plain facts of
+the following pages. These were the sentiments uttered, this was the
+manner of their utterance; and I cheerfully submit them to the judgment
+of a candid public.
+
+I went to Europe without the least anticipation of the kind of reception
+which awaited us; it was all a surprise and an embarrassment to me. I
+went with the strongest love of my country, and the highest veneration
+for her institutions; I every where in Britain found the most cordial
+sympathy with this love and veneration; and I returned with both greatly
+increased. But slavery I do not recognize as an institution of my
+country; it is an excrescence, a vile usurpation, hated of God, and
+abhorred by man; I am under no obligation either to love or respect it.
+He is the traitor to America, and American institutions, who reckons
+slavery as one of them, and, as such, screens it from assault. Slavery
+is a blight, a canker, a poison, in the very heart of our republic; and
+unless the nation, as such, disengage itself from it, it will most
+assuredly be our ruin. The patriot, the philanthropist, the Christian,
+truly enlightened, sees no other alternative. The developments of the
+present session of our national Congress are making this great truth
+clearly perceptible even to the dullest apprehension.
+
+C.E. STOWE.
+
+ANDOVER, _May_ 30, 1854.
+
+
+
+
+BREAKFAST IN LIVERPOOL--APRIL 11.
+
+
+THE REV. DR. M'NEILE, who had been requested by the respected host to
+express to Mrs. Stowe the hearty congratulations of the first meeting of
+friends she had seen in England, thus addressed her: "Mrs. Stowe: I have
+been requested by those kind friends under whose hospitable roof we are
+assembled to give some expression to the sincere and cordial welcome
+with which, we greet your arrival in this country. I find real
+difficulty in making this attempt, not from want of matter, nor from
+want of feeling, but because it is not in the power of any language I
+can command, to give adequate expression to the affectionate enthusiasm
+which pervades all ranks of our community, and which is truly
+characteristic of the humanity and the Christianity of Great Britain. We
+welcome Mrs. Stowe as the honored instrument of that noble impulse which
+public opinion and public feeling throughout Christendom have received
+against the demoralizing and degrading system of human slavery. That
+system is still, unhappily, identified in the minds of many with the
+supposed material interests of society, and even with the well being of
+the slaves themselves; but the plausible arguments and ingenious
+sophistries by which it has been defended shrink with shame from the
+facts without exaggeration, the principles without compromise, the
+exposures without indelicacy, and the irrepressible glow of hearty
+feeling--O, how true to nature!--which characterize Mrs. Stowe's
+immortal book. Yet I feel assured that the effect produced by Uncle
+Tom's Cabin is not mainly or chiefly to be traced to the interest of the
+narrative, however captivating, nor to the exposures of the slave
+system, however withering: these would, indeed, be sufficient to produce
+a good effect; but this book contains more and better than even these;
+it contains what will never be lost sight of--the genuine application to
+the several branches of the subject of the sacred word of God. By no
+part of this wonderful work has my own mind been so permanently
+impressed as by the thorough legitimacy of the application of
+Scripture,--no wresting, no mere verbal adaptation, but in every
+instance the passage cited is made to illustrate something in the
+narrative, or in the development of character, in strictest accordance
+with the design of the passage in its original sacred context. We
+welcome Mrs. Stowe, then, as an honored fellow-laborer in the highest
+and best of causes; and I am much mistaken if this tone of welcome be
+not by far the most congenial to her own feelings. We unaffectedly
+sympathize with much which she must feel, and, as a lady, more
+peculiarly feel, in passing through that ordeal of gratulation which is
+sure to attend her steps in every part of our country; and I am
+persuaded that we cannot manifest our gratitude for her past services in
+any way more acceptable to herself than by earnest prayer on her behalf
+that she may be kept in the simplicity of Christ, enjoying in her daily
+experience the tender consolations of the Divine Spirit, and in the
+midst of the most flattering commendations saying and feeling, in the
+instincts of a renewed heart, 'Not unto me, O Lord, not unto me, but
+unto thy name be the praise, for thy mercy, and for thy truth's sake.'"
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE then rose, and said, "If we are silent, it is not
+because we do not feel, but because we feel more than we can express.
+When that book was written, we had no hope except in God. We had no
+expectation of reward save in the prayers of the poor. The surprising
+enthusiasm which has been excited by the book all over Christendom is an
+indication that God has a work to be done in the cause of emancipation.
+The present aspect of things in the United States is discouraging. Every
+change in society, every financial revolution, every political and
+ecclesiastical movement, seems to pass and leave the African race
+without help. Our only resource is prayer. God surely cannot will that
+the unhappy condition of this portion of his children should continue
+forever. There are some indications of a movement in the southern mind.
+A leading southern paper lately declared editorially that slavery is
+either right or wrong: if it is wrong, it is to be abandoned: if it is
+right, it must be defended. The _Southern Press_, a paper established to
+defend the slavery interest at the seat of government, has proposed that
+the worst features of the system, such as the separation of families,
+should be abandoned. But it is evident that with that restriction the
+system could not exist. For instance, a man wants to buy a cook; but she
+has a husband and seven children. Now, is he to buy a man and seven
+children, for whom he has no use, for the sake of having a cook? Nothing
+on the present occasion has been so grateful to our feelings as the
+reference made by Dr. M'Neile to the Christian character of the book.
+Incredible as it may seem to those who are without prejudice, it is
+nevertheless a fact that this book was condemned by some religious
+newspapers in the United States as anti-Christian, and its author
+associated with infidels and disorganizers; and had not it been for the
+decided expression of the mind of English Christians, and of Christendom
+itself, on this point, there is reason to fear that the proslavery power
+of the United States would have succeeded in putting the book under
+foot. Therefore it is peculiarly gratifying that so full an indorsement
+has been given the work, in this respect, by eminent Christians of the
+highest character in Europe; for, however some in the United States may
+affect to despise what is said by the wise and good of this kingdom and
+the Christian world, they do feel it, and feel it intensely." In answer
+to an inquiry by Dr. M'Neile as to the mode in which southern Christians
+defended the institution, Dr. Stowe remarked that "a great change had
+taken place in that respect during the last thirty years. Formerly all
+Christians united in condemning the system; but of late some have begun
+to defend it on scriptural grounds. The Rev. Mr. Smylie, of Mississippi,
+wrote a pamphlet in the defensive; and Professor Thornwell, of South
+Carolina, has published the most candid and able statement of that
+argument which has been given. Their main reliance is on the system of
+Mosaic servitude, wholly unlike though it was to the American system of
+slavery. As to what this American system of slavery is, the best
+documents for enlightening the minds of British Christians are the
+commercial newspapers of the slaveholding states. There you see slavery
+as it is, and certainly without any exaggeration. Read the
+advertisements for the sale of slaves and for the apprehension of
+fugitives, the descriptions of the persons of slaves, of dogs for
+hunting slaves, &c., and you see how the whole matter as viewed by the
+southern mind. Say what they will about it, practically they generally
+regard the separation of families no more than the separation of cattle,
+and the slaves as so much property, and nothing else. Their own papers
+show that the pictures of the internal slave trade given in Uncle Tom,
+so far from being overdrawn, fall even below the truth. Go on, then, in
+forming and expressing your views on this subject. In laboring for the
+overthrow of American slavery you are pursuing a course of Christian
+duty as legitimate as in laboring to suppress the suttees of India, the
+cannibalism of the Fejee Islands, and other barbarities of heathenism,
+of which human slavery is but a relic. These evils can be finally
+removed by the benign influence of the love of Christ, and no other
+power is competent to the work."
+
+
+PUBLIC MEETING IN LIVERPOOL--APRIL 13.
+
+The Chairman, (A. HODGSON, Esq.,) in opening the proceedings, thus
+addressed Mrs. Beecher Stowe: "The modesty of our English ladies, which,
+like your own, shrinks instinctively from unnecessary publicity, has
+devolved on me, as one of the trustees of the Liverpool Association, the
+gratifying office of tendering to you, at then request, a slight
+testimonial of their gratitude and respect. We had hoped almost to the
+last moment that Mrs. Cropper would have represented, on this day, the
+ladies with whom she has cooperated, and among whom she has taken a
+distinguished lead in the great work which you had the honor and the
+happiness to originate. But she has felt with you that the path most
+grateful and most congenial to female exertion, even in its widest and
+most elevated range, is still a retired and a shady path; and you have
+taught us that the voice which most effectually kindles enthusiasm in
+millions is the still small voice which comes forth from the sanctuary
+of a woman's breast, and from the retirement of a woman's closet--the
+simple but unequivocal expression of her unfaltering faith, and the
+evidence of her generous and unshrinking self-devotion. In the same
+spirit, and as deeply impressed with the retired character of female
+exertion, the ladies who have so warmly greeted your arrival in this
+country have still felt it entirely consistent with the most sensitive
+delicacy to make a public response to your appeal, and to hail with
+acclamation your thrilling protest against those outrages on our common
+nature which circumstances have forced on your observation. They engage
+in no political discussion, they embark in no public controversy; but
+when an intrepid sister appeals to the instincts of women of every color
+and of every clime against a system which sanctions the violation of the
+fondest affections and the disruption of the tenderest ties; which
+snatches the clinging wife from the agonized husband, and the child from
+the breast of its fainting mother; which leaves the young and innocent
+female a helpless and almost inevitable victim of a licentiousness
+controlled by no law and checked by no public opinion,--it is surely as
+feminine as it is Christian to sympathize with her in her perilous task,
+and to rejoice that she has shed such a vivid light on enormities which
+can exist only while unknown or unbelieved. We acknowledge with regret
+and shame that that fatal system was introduced into America by Great
+Britain; but having in our colonies returned from our devious paths, we
+may without presumption, in the spirit of friendly suggestion, implore
+our honored transatlantic friends to do the same. The ladies of Great
+Britain have been admonished by their fair sisters in America, (and I am
+sure they are bound to take the admonition in good part,) that there are
+social evils in our own country demanding our special vigilance and
+care. This is most true; but it is also true that the deepest sympathies
+and most strenuous efforts are directed, in the first instance, to the
+evils which exist among ourselves, and that the rays of benevolence
+which flash across the Atlantic are often but the indication of the
+intensity of the bright flame which is shedding light and heat on all in
+its immediate vicinity. I believe this is the case with most of those
+who have taken a prominent part in this great movement. I am sure it is
+preeminently the case with respect to many of those by whom you are
+surrounded; and I hardly know a more miserable fallacy, by which
+sensible men allow themselves to be deluded, than that which assumes
+that every emotion of sympathy which is kindled by objects abroad is
+abstracted from our sympathies at home. All experience points to a
+directly opposite conclusion; and surely the divine command, 'to go into
+all the world, and preach the gospel to every creature,' should put to
+shame and silence the specious but transparent selfishness which would
+contract the limits of human sympathy, and veil itself under the garb of
+superior sagacity. But I must not detain you by any further
+observations. Allow me, in the name of the associated ladies, to present
+you with this small memorial of great regard, and to tender to you their
+and my best wishes for your health and happiness while you are
+sojourning among us, for the blessing of God on your children during
+your absence, and for your safe return to your native country when your
+mission shall be accomplished. I have just been requested to state the
+following particulars: In December last, a few ladies met in this place
+to consider the best plan of obtaining signatures in Liverpool to an
+address to the women of America on the subject of negro slavery, in
+substance coinciding with the one so nobly proposed and carried forward
+by Lord Shaftesbury. At this meeting it was suggested that it would be a
+sincere gratification to many if some testimonial could be presented to
+Mrs. Stowe which would indicate the sense, almost universally
+entertained, that she had been the instrument in the hands of God of
+arousing the slumbering sympathies of this country in behalf of the
+suffering slave. It was felt desirable to render the expression of such
+a feeling as general as possible; and to effect this it was resolved
+that a subscription should be set on foot, consisting of contributions
+of one penny and upwards, with a view to raise a testimonial, to be
+presented to Mrs. Stowe by the ladies of Liverpool, as an expression of
+their grateful appreciation of her valuable services in the cause of the
+negro, and as a token of admiration for the genius and of high esteem
+for the philanthropy and Christian feeling which animate her great work,
+Uncle Tom's Cabin. It ought, perhaps, to be added, that some friends,
+not residents of Liverpool, have united in this tribute. As many of the
+ladies connected with the effort to obtain signatures to the address may
+not be aware of the whole number appended, they may be interested in
+knowing that they amounted in all to twenty-one thousand nine hundred
+and fifty-three. Of these, twenty thousand nine hundred and thirty-six
+were obtained by ladies in Liverpool, from their friends either in this
+neighborhood or at a distance; and one thousand and seventeen were sent
+to the committee in London from other parts, by those who preferred our
+form of address. The total number of signatures from all parts of the
+kingdom to Lord Shaftesbury's address was upwards of five hundred
+thousand."
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE then said, "On behalf of Mrs. Stowe I will read from her
+pen the response to your generous offering: 'It is impossible for me to
+express the feelings of my heart at the kind and generous manner in
+which I have been received upon English shores. Just when I had begun to
+realize that a whole wide ocean lay between me and all that is dearest
+to me, I found most unexpectedly a home and friends waiting to receive
+me here. I have had not an hour in which to know the heart of a
+stranger. I have been made to feel at home since the first moment of
+landing, and wherever I have looked I have seen only the faces of
+friends. It is with deep feeling that I have found myself on ground that
+has been consecrated and made holy by the prayers and efforts of those
+who first commenced the struggle for that sacred cause which has proved
+so successful in England, and which I have a solemn assurance will yet
+be successful in my own country. It is a touching thought that here so
+many have given all that they have, and are, in behalf of oppressed
+humanity. It is touching to remember that one of the noblest men which
+England has ever produced now lies stricken under the heavy hand of
+disease, through a last labor of love in this cause. May God grant us
+all to feel that nothing is too dear or precious to be given in a work
+for which such men have lived, and labored, and suffered. No great good
+is ever wrought out for the human race without the suffering of great
+hearts. They who would serve their fellow-men are ever reminded that the
+Captain of their salvation was made perfect through suffering. I
+gratefully accept the offering confided to my care, and trust it may be
+so employed that the blessing of many "who are ready to perish" will
+return upon your heads. Let me ask those--those fathers and mothers in
+Israel--who have lived and prayed many years for this cause, that as
+they prayed for their own country in the hour of her struggle, so they
+will pray now for ours. Love and prayer can hurt no one, can offend no
+one, and prayer is a real power. If the hearts of all the real
+Christians of England are poured out in prayer, it will be felt through
+the heart of the whole American church. Let us all look upward, from our
+own feebleness and darkness, to Him of whom it is said, "He shall not
+fail nor be discouraged till he have set judgment in the earth." To him,
+the only wise God our Saviour, be glory and majesty, dominion and power,
+both now and ever. Amen.'--These are the words, my friends, which Mrs.
+Stowe has written, and I cannot forbear to add a few words of my own. It
+was our intention, as the invitation to visit Great Britain came from
+Glasgow, to make our first landing there. But it was ordered by
+Providence that we should land here; and surely there is no place in the
+kingdom where a landing could be more appropriate, and where the
+reception could have been more cordial. [Hear, hear!] It was wholly
+unexpected by us, I can assure you. We know that there were friendly
+hearts here, for we had received abundant testimonials to that effect
+from letters which had come to us across the Atlantic--letters wholly
+unexpected, and which filled our souls with surprise; but we had no
+thought that there was such a feeling throughout England, and we
+scarcely know how to conduct ourselves under it, for we are not
+accustomed to this kind of receptions. In our own country, unhappily, we
+are very much divided, and the preponderance of feeling expressed is in
+the other direction, entirely in opposition, and not in favor. [Hear,
+hear!] We knew that this city had been the scene of some of the
+greatest, most disinterested, and most powerful efforts in behalf of
+emancipation. The name of Clarkson was indissolubly associated with this
+place, for here he came to make his investigations, and here he was in
+danger of his life, and here he was protected by friends who stood by
+him through the whole struggle. The names of Cropper, and of Stephen,
+and of many others in this city, were very familiar to us--[Hear,
+hear!]--and it was in connection with this city that we received what to
+our feelings was a most effective testimonial, an unexpected letter from
+Lord Denman, whom we have always venerated. When I was in England in
+1836, there were no two persons whom I more desired to see than the Duke
+of Wellington and Lord Denman; and soon I sought admission to the House
+of Lords, where I had the pleasure both of seeing and hearing England's
+great captain; and I found my way to the Court of Queen's Bench, where I
+had the pleasure of seeing and hearing England's great judge. But how
+unexpected was all this to us! When that book was written, in sorrow,
+and in sadness, and obscurity, and with the heart almost broken in the
+view of the sufferings which it described, and the still greater
+sufferings which it dared not describe, there was no expectation of any
+thing but the prayers of the sufferers and the blessing of God, who has
+said that the seed which is buried in the earth shall spring up in his
+own good time; and though it may be long buried, it will still at length
+come forth and bear fruit. We never could believe that slavery in our
+land would be a perpetual curse; but we felt, and felt deeply, that
+there must be a terrible struggle before we could be delivered from it,
+and that there must be suffering and martyrdom in this cause, as in
+every other great cause; for a struggle of eighteen years had taught us
+its strength. And, under God, we rely very much on the Christian public
+of Great Britain; for every expression of feeling from the wise and good
+of this land, with whatever petulance it may be met by some, goes to the
+heart of the American people. [Hear, hear!] You must not judge of the
+American people by the expressions which have come across the Atlantic
+in reference to the subject. Nine tenths of the American people, I
+think, are, in opinion at least, with you on this great subject; [Hear,
+hear!] but there is a tremendous pressure brought to bear upon all who
+are in favor of emancipation. The whole political power, the whole money
+power, almost the whole ecclesiastical power is wielded in defence of
+slavery, protecting it from all aggression; and it is as much as a man's
+reputation is worth to utter a syllable boldly and openly on the other
+side. Let me say to the ladies who have been active in getting up the
+address on the subject of slavery, that you have been doing a great and
+glorious work, and a work most appropriate for you to do; for in slavery
+it is woman that suffers most intensely, and the suffering woman has a
+claim upon the sympathy of her sisters in other lands. This address will
+produce a powerful impression throughout the country. There are ladies
+already of the highest character in the nation pondering how they shall
+make a suitable response, and what they shall do in reference to it that
+will be acceptable to the ladies of the United Kingdom, or will be
+profitable to the slave; and in due season you will see that the hearts
+of American women are alive to this matter, as well as the hearts of the
+women of this country. [Hear, hear!] Such was the mighty influence
+brought to bear upon every thing that threatened slavery, that had it
+not been for the decided expression on this side of the Atlantic in
+reference to the work which has exerted, under God, so much influence,
+there is every reason to fear that it would have been crushed and put
+under foot, as many other efforts for the overthrow of slavery have been
+in the United States. But it is impossible; the unanimous voice of
+Christendom prohibits it; and it shows that God has a work to
+accomplish, and that he has just commenced it. There are social evils in
+England. Undoubtedly there are; but the difference between the social
+evils in England and this great evil of slavery in the United States is
+just here: In England, the power of the government and the power of
+Christian sympathy are exerted for the removal of those evils. Look at
+the committees of inquiry in Parliament, look at the amount of
+information collected with regard to the suffering poor in their
+reports, and see how ready the government of Great Britain is to enter
+into those inquiries, and to remove those evils. Look at the benevolent
+institutions of the United Kingdom, and see how active all these are in
+administering relief; and then see the condition of slavery in the
+United States, where the whole power of the government is used in the
+contrary direction, where every influence is brought to bear to prevent
+any mitigation of the evil, and where every voice that is lifted to
+plead for a mitigation is drowned in vituperation and abuse from those
+who are determined that the evil shall not be mitigated. This is the
+difference: England repents and reforms. America refuses to repent and
+reform. It is said, 'Let each country take care of itself, and let the
+ladies of England attend to their own business.' Now I have always found
+that those who labor at home are those who labor abroad; [Hear, hear!]
+and those who say, 'Let us do the work at home,' are those who do no
+work of good either at home or abroad. [Hear, hear!] It was just so when
+the great missionary effort came up in the United States. They said, 'We
+have a great territory here. Let us send missionaries to our own
+territories. Why should we send missionaries across the ocean?' But
+those who sent missionaries across the ocean were those who sent
+missionaries in the United States; and those who did not send
+missionaries across the ocean were those who sent missionaries nowhere.
+[Hear, hear!] They who say, 'Charity begins at home,' are generally
+those who have no charity; and when I see a lady whose name is signed to
+this address, I am sure to find a lady who is exercising her benevolence
+at home. Let me thank you for all the interest you have manifested and
+for all the kindness which we have received at your hands, which we
+shall ever remember, both with gratitude to you and to God our Father."
+
+The REV. C.M. BIRRELL afterwards made a few remarks in proposing a vote
+of thanks to the ladies who had contributed the testimonial which had
+been presented to the distinguished writer of Uncle Tom's Cabin. He said
+it was most delightful to hear of the great good which that remarkable
+volume had done, and, he humbly believed, by God's special inspiration
+and guidance, was doing, in the United States of America. It was not
+confined to the United States of America. The volume was going forth
+over the whole earth, and great good was resulting, directly and
+indirectly, by God's providence, from it. He was told a few days ago, by
+a gentleman fully conversant with the facts, that an edition of Uncle
+Tom, circulated in Belgium, had created an earnest desire on the part of
+the people to read the Bible, so frequently quoted in that beautiful
+work, and that in consequence of it a great run had been made upon the
+Bible Society's depositories in that kingdom. [Hear, hear!] The priests
+of the church of Rome, true to their instinct, in endeavoring to
+maintain the position which they could not otherwise hold, had published
+another edition, from which, they had entirely excluded all reference to
+the word of God. [Hear, hear!] He had been also told that at St.
+Petersburg an edition of Uncle Tom had been translated into the Russian
+tongue, and that it was being distributed, by command of the emperor,
+throughout the whole of that vast empire. It was true that the
+circulation of the work there did not spring from a special desire on
+the part of the emperor to give liberty to the people of Russia, but
+because he wished to create a third power in the empire, to act upon the
+nobles; he wished to cause them to set free their serfs, in order that a
+third power might be created in the empire to serve as a check upon
+them. But whatever was the cause, let us thank God, the Author of all
+gifts, for what is done.
+
+Sir GEORGE STEPHEN seconded the motion of thanks to the ladies,
+observing that he had peculiar reasons for doing so. He supposed that he
+was one of the oldest laborers in this cause. Thirty years ago he found
+that the work of one lady was equal to that of fifty men; and now we had
+the work of one lady which was equal to that of all the male sex.
+[Applause.]
+
+
+PUBLIC MEETING IN GLASGOW--APRIL 15.
+
+THE REV. DR. WARDLAW was introduced by the chairman, and spoke as
+follows:--
+
+"The members of the Glasgow Ladies' New Antislavery Association and the
+citizens of Glasgow, now assembled, hail with no ordinary satisfaction,
+and with becoming gratitude to a kindly protecting Providence, the safe
+arrival amongst them of Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe. They feel obliged by
+her accepting, with so much promptitude and cordiality, the invitation
+addressed to her--an invitation intended to express the favor they bore
+to her, and the honor in which they held her, as the eminently gifted
+authoress of Uncle Tom's Cabin--a work of humble name, but of high
+excellence and world-wide celebrity; a work the felicity of whose
+conception is more than equalled by the admirable tact of its execution,
+and the Christian benevolence of its design, by its exquisite adaptation
+to its accomplishment; distinguished by the singular variety and
+consistent discrimination of its characters; by the purity of its
+religious and moral principles; by its racy humor, and its touching
+pathos, and its effectively powerful appeals to the judgment, the
+conscience, and the heart; a work, indeed, of whose sterling worth the
+earnest test is to be found in the fact of its having so universally
+touched and stirred the bosom of our common humanity, in all classes of
+society, that its humble name has become 'a household word,' from the
+palace to the cottage, and of the extent of its circulation having been
+unprecedented in the history of the literature of this or of any other
+age or country. They would, at the same time, include in their hearty
+welcome the Rev. C.E. Stowe, Professor of Theological Literature in the
+Andover Theological Seminary, Massachusetts, whose eminent
+qualifications, as a classical scholar, a man of general literature, and
+a theologian, have recently placed him in a highly honorable and
+responsible position, and who, on the subject of slavery, holds the same
+principles and breathes the same spirit of freedom with his accomplished
+partner; and, along with them too, another member of the same singularly
+talented family with herself. They delight to think of the amount of
+good to the cause of emancipation and universal liberty which her Cabin
+has already done, and to anticipate the still larger amount it is yet
+destined to do, now that the Key to the Cabin has triumphantly shown it
+to be no fiction; and in whatever further efforts she may be honored of
+Heaven to make in the same noble cause, they desire, unitedly and
+heartily, to cheer her on, and bid her 'God speed.' I cannot but feel
+myself highly honored in having been requested to move this resolution.
+In doing so, I have the happiness of introducing to a Glasgow audience a
+lady from the transatlantic continent, the extraordinary production of
+whose pen, referred to in the resolution, had made her name familiar in
+our country and through Europe, ere she appeared in person among us. My
+judgment and my heart alike fully respond to every thing said in the
+resolution respecting that inimitable work. We are accustomed to make a
+distinction between works of nature and works of art, but in a sense
+which, all will readily understand, this is preeminently both. As a work
+of art, it bears upon it, throughout, the stamp of original and varied
+genius. And yet, throughout, it equally bears the impress of nature--of
+human nature--in its worst and its best, and all its intermediate
+phases. The man who has read that little volume without laughing and
+crying alternately--without the meltings of pity, the thrillings of
+horror, and the kindlings of indignation--would supply a far better
+argument for a distinct race than a negro. [Loud laughter and cheers.]
+He must have a humanity peculiarly his own. And he who can read it
+without the breathings of devotion must, if he calls himself a
+Christian, have a Christianity as unique and questionable as his
+humanity. [Cheering.] Never did work produce such a sensation. Among us
+that sensation has happily been all of one kind. It has been the
+stirring of universal sympathy and unbounded admiration. Not so in the
+country of its own and of its gifted authoress's birth. There, the
+ferment has been among the friends as well as the foes of slavery. Among
+the former all is rage. Among the latter, while there are some--we trust
+not a few--who take the same high and noble position with the talented
+authoress, there are too many, we fear, who are frightened by this
+uncompromising boldness, and who are drawn back rather than drawn
+forward by it--who 'halt between two opinions,' and are the advocates of
+medium principles and medium measures. By many among ourselves, the
+excitement which has been stirred is contemplated with apprehension.
+They regard it as unfavorable to emancipation, and likely to retard
+rather than to advance its progress. I must confess myself of a somewhat
+different mind. That the cause may be obstructed by it for a time, may
+be true. But it will work well in the long run. Good will ultimately
+come out of it. Stir is better than stagnancy. Irritation is better than
+apathy. Whence does it arise? From two sources. The conscience and the
+honor of the country have both been touched. Conscience winces under the
+touch. The provocation shows it to be ill at ease. The wound is painful,
+and it naturally awakens fretfulness and resentment. But by and by the
+angry excitement will subside, and the salutary conviction will remain
+and operate. The national honor, too, has been touched. Our friends
+across the wave boast, and with good reason, of the free principles of
+their constitution. They glory in their liberty. But they cannot fail to
+feel the inconsistency of their position, and the exposure of it to the
+world kindles on the cheek the blush of shame and the reddening fire of
+displeasure. Now, the blush has aright source. It is the blush of
+patriotism--it is for their country. But there is anger with the shame;
+for few things are more galling than to feel that to be wrong which you
+are unable to justify, and which, yet, you are not prepared to
+relinquish. [Loud applause.] On the whole, I cannot but regard the
+agitation which has been produced as an auspicious, rather than a
+discouraging omen. It was when the waters of the pool were troubled that
+their healing virtue was imparted. Let us then hope that the troubling
+of the waters by this ministering angel of mercy may impregnate them
+with a similar sanative influence, [the reverend doctor here pointed
+towards Mrs. Stowe, while the audience burst out with enthusiastic
+acclamations and waving of handkerchiefs,] and thus ultimately
+contribute to the healing of the ghastly wounds of the chain and the
+lash, and to the setting of the crushed and bowed down erect in the
+soundness and dignity of their true manhood. [Loud cheering.] Sorry we
+are that Mrs. Stowe should appear amongst us in a state of broken health
+and physical exhaustion. No one who looks at the Cabin and at the Key,
+and who knows aught of the effect of severe mental labor on the bodily
+frame, will marvel at this. We fondly trust, and earnestly pray, that
+her temporary sojourn among us may, by the divine blessing, recruit her
+strength, and contribute to the prolongation of a life so promising of
+benefit to suffering humanity, and to the glory of God. [Cheers.]
+Meanwhile she enjoys the happy consciousness that she is suffering in a
+good cause. A better there could not be. It is one which involves the
+well being, corporeal and mental, physical and spiritual, temporal and
+eternal, of degraded, plundered, oppressed, darkened, brutalized,
+perishing millions. And, while we delight in furnishing her for a time
+with a peaceful retreat from 'the wrath of men,' from the resentment of
+those who, did they but rightly know their own interests, would have
+smiled upon her, and blessed her. We trust she enjoys, and ever will
+enjoy, quietness and assurance of an infinitely higher order--the divine
+Master, whom she serves and seeks to honor; proving to her, in the terms
+of his own promise, 'a refuge from the storm, and a covert from the
+tempest.' [Enthusiastic cheering.] It may sound strangely, that, when
+assembled for the very purpose of denouncing 'property in man,' we
+should be putting in our claims for a share of property in woman. So,
+however, it is. We claim Mrs. Stowe as ours--[renewed, cheers]--not ours
+only, but still ours. She is British and European property as well as
+American. She is the property of the whole world of literature and the
+whole world of humanity. [Cheers.] Should our transatlantic friends
+repudiate the property, they may transfer their share--[laughter and
+cheers]--most gladly will we accept the transference."
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE, on rising to reply, was greeted with the most
+enthusiastic applause. He said that he appeared in the name of Mrs.
+Stowe, and in his own name, for the purpose of cordially thanking the
+people of Glasgow for the reception that had been given to them. But he
+could not find words to do it. Was it true that all this affectionate
+interest was merited? [Cheers.] He could not imagine any book capable of
+exciting such expressions of attachment; indeed he was inclined to
+believe it had not been written at all--he "'spected it grew."
+[Tremendous cheers.] Under the oppression of the fugitive slave law the
+book had sprung from the soil ready made. He regretted exceedingly that
+in consequence of the state of Mrs. Stowe's health, and in consequence
+of the great pressure of engagements on himself, their stay in this
+country would be necessarily short. But he hoped they would accept of
+the expression of thanks they offered, and their apology for not being
+in a condition to meet their kindness as they would desire. When they
+were about to set out from Andover, a friend of theirs expressed his
+astonishment that they should enter upon such a journey in the delicate
+state of Mrs. Stowe's health. The Scotch people, he doubted not, would
+be kind to them--_they would kill them with kindness_; and he feared it
+would be so. It was from Glasgow the idea of the invitation they had
+received had originated; and well might it originate in that city, for
+when had been the time that Glasgow was not in earnest on the subject of
+freedom? They had had hard struggles for liberty, and they had been
+successful, and the people in the United States were now struggling for
+the same privilege. But they labored under circumstances greatly
+different from those in Great Britain. Scotland had ever been
+distinguished for its love of freedom. [Great applause.] The religious
+denominations in the United States--to a great extent, give few and
+feeble expressions of disapprobation against the system of slavery. Two
+denominations had never been silent--the Old Scotch Seceders, or
+Covenanters, and the disciples of William Penn--not one of their number,
+in the United States, owns a slave. Not one can own a slave without
+being ejected from the society.[A] In fact, the general feeling was
+against slavery; but to avoid trouble, the people hesitate to give
+publicity to their feelings. Were this done, slavery would soon come to
+an end. Great sacrifices are sometimes made by slaveholders to get rid
+of slavery. He went once to preach in the State of Ohio. He found there
+a little log house. Inside was a delicate woman, feeble and with white
+hands. She seemed wholly unaccustomed to work. Her husband had the same
+appearance of delicacy. They were very poor. How had they come into that
+state? They belonged to a slave State, where they had formerly possessed
+a little family of slaves. They had felt slavery to be wrong. They set
+them free, and with the remainder of their little property tried to get
+their living by farming; but like many similar cases, it had been one of
+martyrdom. The Professor then proceeded to make some very practical
+remarks on the character of the fugitive slave law, after which he said
+that the prosperity of Great Britain in a great measure resulted from
+the products of slave labor. American cotton was the chief support of
+the system. We must, both in Britain and America, get free-grown cotton,
+or slavery will not, at least for a long time to come, be abolished.
+What he would impress on the minds of Christians was unity in this great
+work. Let slaveholders be ever so much opposed to each other on other
+topics, they were unanimous in their endeavors to support slavery. But
+let the prayers of all Christians and the efforts of all Christians be
+united; and the system of oppression would speedily be destroyed
+forever.
+
+
+PUBLIC MEETING IN EDINBURGH--APRIL 20.
+
+THE LORD PROVOST rose, and stated that a number of letters of apology
+had been received from parties who had been invited to take part in the
+meeting, but who had been unable to attend. Among these he might
+mention Professor Blackie, the Rev. Mr. Gilfillan, of Dundee, Rev. J.
+Begg, D.D., the Earl of Buchan, Dr. Candlish, and Sir W. Gibson Craig,
+all of whom expressed their regret that they could not be present. One
+of them, he observed, was from a gentleman who had long taken an
+interest in the antislavery cause,--Lord Cockburn,[B]--and his note was
+so warm, and sympathetic, and hearty on the subject about which they had
+met, that he could not resist the temptation of reading it. It
+proceeded, "I regret, that owing to my being obliged to be in Ayrshire,
+it will not be in my power to join you in the expression of respect and
+gratitude to Mrs. Stowe; she deserves all the honor that can be done
+her; she has done more for humanity than was ever accomplished before by
+a single book of fiction. [Cheers.] It did not require much to raise our
+British feeling against slavery, but by showing us what substantially
+are facts, and the necessary tendency of this evil in its most mitigated
+form, she has greatly strengthened the ground on which this feeling
+rests. Her work may have no immediate or present influence on the states
+of her own country that are now unhappily under the curse, and may
+indeed for a time aggravate its horrors; but it is a prodigious
+accession to the constantly accumulating mass of views and evidence,
+which by reason of its force must finally prevail." [Cheers.] The Lord
+Provost proceeded to say, that they had now assembled chiefly to do
+honor to their distinguished guest, Mrs. Stowe. [Applause.] They had
+met, however, also to express their interest in the cause which it had
+been the great effort of her life to promote--the abolition of slavery.
+They took advantage of her presence, and the effect which was produced
+on the public mind of this country, to reiterate their love for the
+abolition cause, and their detestation of slavery. Before they were
+aware that Mrs. Stowe was to grace the city of Edinburgh with her
+presence, a committee had been organized to collect a penny
+offering--the amount to be contributed in pence, and other small sums,
+from the masses of this country--to be presented to her as some means of
+mitigating, through her instrumentality, the horrors of slavery, as they
+might come under her observation. It was intended at once as a mark of
+their esteem for her, of their confidence in her, of their conviction
+that she would do what was right in the cause, and, at the same time, as
+an evidence of the detestation in which the system of slavery was held
+in this free country. That penny offering now, he was happy to say, by
+the spontaneous efforts of the inhabitants of this and other towns,
+amounted to a considerable sum; to certain gentlemen in Edinburgh
+forming the committee the whole credit of this organization was due, and
+he believed one of their number, the Rev. Mr. Ballantyne, would present
+the offering that evening, and tell them all about it. He would not,
+therefore, forestall what he would have to say on the subject. They were
+also to have the pleasure of presenting Mrs. Stowe with an address from
+the committee in this city, which would be presented by another reverend
+friend, who would be introduced at the proper time. As there would be a
+number of speakers to follow during the evening, his own remarks must
+be exceedingly short; but he could not resist the temptation of saying
+how happy he felt at being once more in the midst of a great meeting in
+the city of Edinburgh, for the purpose of expressing their detestation
+of the system of slavery. They could appeal to their brethren in the
+United States with clean hands, because they had got rid of the
+abomination themselves; they could therefore say to them, through their
+friends who were now present, on their return home, and through the
+press, which would carry their sentiments even to the slave states--they
+could say to them that they had washed their own hands of the evil at
+the largest pecuniary sacrifice that was ever made by any nation for the
+promotion of any good cause. [Loud applause.] Some parties said that
+they should not speak harshly of the Americans, because they were full
+of prejudice with regard to the system which they had seen growing up
+around them. He said so too with all his heart; he joined in the
+sentiment that they should not speak harshly, but they might fairly
+express their opinion of the system with which their American friends
+were surrounded, and in which he thought all who supported it were
+guilty participators. [Hear, hear!] They could denounce the wickedness,
+they could tell them that they thought it was their duty to put an end
+to it speedily. The cause of the abolition of slavery in our own
+colonies long hung without any visible progress, notwithstanding the
+efforts of many distinguished men, who did all they could to mitigate
+some of its more prominent evils; and yet, so long as they never struck
+at the root, the progress which they made was almost insensible. They
+knew how many men had spent their energies, and some of them their
+lives, in attempting to forward the cause; but how little effect was
+produced for the first half of the present century! The city of
+Edinburgh had always, he was glad to say, taken a deep interest in the
+cause; it was one of the very first to take up the ground of total and
+entire abolition. [Cheers.] A predecessor of his own in the civic chair
+was so kind as to preside at a meeting held in Edinburgh twenty-three
+years ago, in which a very decided step was proposed to be taken in
+advance, and a resolution was moved by the then Dean of Faculty, to the
+effect that on the following first of January, 1831, all the children
+born of slave parents in our colonies were from that date to be declared
+free. That was thought a great and most important movement by the
+promoters of the cause. There were, however, parties at that crowded
+meeting who thought that even this was a mere expedient--that it was a
+mere pruning of the branches, leaving the whole system intact. One of
+these was the late Dr. Andrew Thomson--[cheers]--who had the courage to
+propose that the meeting should at once declare for total and immediate
+abolition, which proposal was seconded by another excellent citizen, Mr.
+Dickie. Dr. Thomson replied to some of the arguments which had been put
+forward, to the effect that the total abolition might possibly occasion
+bloodshed; and he said that, even if that did follow, it was no fault of
+his, and that he still stuck to the principle, which he considered right
+under any circumstances. The chairman, thereupon, threatened to leave
+the chair on account of the unnecessarily strong language used, and when
+the sentiments were reiterated by Mr. Dickie, he actually bolted, and
+left the meeting, which was thrown into great confusion. A few days
+afterwards, however, another meeting was held--one of the largest and
+most effective that had been ever held in Edinburgh--at which were
+present Mr. John Shank More in the chair, the Rev. Dr. Thomson, Rev. Dr
+Gordon, Dr. Ritchie, Mr. Muirhead, the Rev. Mr. Buchanan of North Leith,
+Mr. J. Wigham, Jr., Dr. Greville, &c. The Lord Provost proceeded to read
+extracts from the speeches made at the meeting, showing that the
+sentiments of the inhabitants of Edinburgh, so far back as 1830, as
+uttered by some of its most distinguished men,--not violent agitators,
+but ministers of the gospel, promoters of peace and order, and every
+good and every benevolent purpose,--were in favor of the immediate and
+total abolition of slavery in our colonies. He referred especially to
+the speech of Dr. Andrew Thomson on this occasion, from which he read
+the following extract: "But if the argument is forced upon me to
+accomplish this great object, that there must be violence, let it come,
+for it will soon pass away--let it come and rage its little hour, since
+it is to be succeeded by lasting freedom, and prosperity, and happiness.
+Give me the hurricane rather than the pestilence. Give me the hurricane,
+with its thunders, and its lightnings, and its tempests--give me the
+hurricane, with its partial and temporary devastations, awful though
+they be--give me the hurricane, which brings along with it purifying,
+and healthful, and salutary effects--give me the hurricane rather than
+the noisome pestilence, whose path is never crossed, whose silence is
+never disturbed, whose progress is never arrested by one sweeping blast
+from the heavens--which walks peacefully and sullenly through the length
+and breadth of the land, breathing poison into every heart, and carrying
+havoc into every home--enervating all that is strong, defacing all that
+is beautiful, and casting its blight over the fairest and happiest
+scenes of human life--and which from day to day, and from year to year,
+with intolerant and interminable malignity, sends its thousands and tens
+of thousands of hapless victims into the ever-yawning and
+never-satisfied grave!"--[Loud and long applause.] The experience which
+they had had, that all the dangers, all the bloodshed and violence which
+were threatened, were merely imaginary, and that none of these evils had
+come upon them although slavery had been totally abolished by us,
+should, he thought, be an encouragement to their American friends to go
+home and tell their countrymen that in this great city the views now put
+forward were advocated long ago--that the persons who now held them said
+the same years ago of the disturbances and the evils which would arise
+from pressing the question of immediate and total abolition--that the
+same kind of arguments and the same predictions of evil were uttered in
+England--and although she had not the experience, although she had not
+the opportunity of pointing to the past, and saying the evil had not
+come in such a case, still, even then, they were willing to face the
+evil, to stick to the righteous principle, and to say, come what would,
+justice must be done to the slave, and slavery must be wholly and
+immediately abolished. [Cheers.] He had said so much on the question of
+slavery, because he was very sure it would be much more agreeable to
+their modest and retiring and distinguished guest that one should speak
+about any other thing than about herself. Uncle Tom's Cabin needed no
+recommendation from him. [Loud cheers.] It was the most extraordinary
+book, he thought, that had ever been published; no book had ever got
+into the same circulation; none had ever produced a tithe of the
+impression which it had produced within a given time. It was worth all
+the proslavery press of America put together. The horrors of slavery
+were not merely described, but they were actually pictured to the eye.
+They were seen and understood fully; formerly they were mere dim
+visions, about which there was great difference of opinion; some saw
+them as in a mist, and others more clearly; but now every body saw and
+understood slavery. Every body in this great city, if they had a voice
+in the matter, would be prepared to say that they wished slavery to be
+utterly extinguished. [Loud cheers.]
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE then rose, and was greeted with loud cheers. He begged
+to read the following note from Mrs. Stowe, in acknowledgment of the
+honor:--
+
+"I accept these congratulations and honors, and this offering, which it
+has pleased Scotland to bestow on me, not for any thing which I have
+said or done, not as in any sense acknowledging that they are or can be
+deserved, but with heartfelt, humble gratitude to God, as tokens of
+mercy to a cause most sacred and most oppressed. In the name of a people
+despised and rejected of men--in the name of men of sorrows acquainted
+with grief, from whom the faces of all the great and powerful of the
+earth have been hid--in the name of oppressed and suffering humanity, I
+thank you. The offering given is the dearer to me, and the more hopeful,
+that it is literally the penny offering, given by thousands on
+thousands, a penny at a time. When, in travelling through your country,
+aged men and women have met me with such fervent blessings, little
+children gathered round me with such loving eyes--when honest hands,
+hard with toil, have been stretched forth with such hearty welcome--when
+I have seen how really it has come from the depths of the hearts of the
+common people, and know, as I truly do, what prayers are going up with
+it from the humblest homes of Scotland, I am encouraged. I believe it is
+God who inspires this feeling, and I believe God never inspired it in
+vain. I feel an assurance that the Lord hath looked down from heaven to
+hear the groaning of the prisoner, and according to the greatness of his
+power, to loose those that are appointed to die. In the human view,
+nothing can be more hopeless than this cause; all the wealth, and all
+the power, and all the worldly influence is against it. But here in
+Scotland, need we tell the children of the Covenant, that the Lord on
+high is mightier than all human power? Here, close by the spot where
+your fathers signed that Covenant, in an hour when Scotland's cause was
+equally poor and depressed--here, by the spot where holy martyrs sealed
+it with their blood, it will neither seem extravagance nor enthusiasm to
+say to the children of such parents, that for the support of this cause,
+we look, not to the things that are seen, but to the things that are not
+seen; to that God, who, in the face of all worldly power, gave liberty
+to Scotland, in answer to your fathers' prayers. Our trust is in Jesus
+Christ, and in the power of the Holy Ghost, and in the promise that he
+shall reign till he hath put all things under his feet. There are those
+faithless ones, who, standing at the grave of a buried humanity, tell us
+that it is vain to hope for our brother, because he hath lain in the
+grave three days already. We turn from them to the face of Him who has
+said, 'Thy brother shall rise again.' There was a time when our great
+High Priest, our Brother, yet our Lord, lay in the grave three days; and
+the governors and powers of the earth made it as sure as they could,
+seeding the stone and setting a watch. But a third day came, and an
+earthquake, and an angel. So shall it be to the cause of the oppressed;
+though now small and despised, we are watchers at the sepulchre, like
+Mary and the trusting women; we can sit through the hours of darkness.
+We are watching the sky for the golden streaks of dawning, and we
+believe that the third day will surely come. For Christ our Lord, being
+raised from the dead, dieth no more; and he has pledged his word that he
+shall not fail nor be discouraged till he have set judgment on the
+earth. He shall deliver the poor when He crieth, the needy, and him that
+hath no helper. The night is far spent--the day is at hand. The
+universal sighing of humanity in all countries, the whole creation
+groaning and travailing in pain together--the earnest expectation of the
+creature waiting for the manifestation of the sons of God--show that the
+day is not distant when he will break every yoke, and let the oppressed
+go free. And whatever we are able to do for this sacred cause, let us
+cast it where the innumerable multitude of heaven cast their crowns, at
+the feet of the Lamb, saying, 'Worthy is the Lamb that was slain to
+receive power, and riches, and wisdom, and strength, and honor, and
+glory, and blessings.'"
+
+The Rev. Professor then continued. "My Lord Provost, Ladies and
+Gentlemen: This cause, to be successful, must be carried on in a
+religious spirit, with a deep sense of our dependence on God, and with
+that love for our fellow-men which the gospel requires. It is because I
+think I have met this spirit since I reached the shores of Great
+Britain, in those who have taken an interest in the cause, that I feel
+encouraged to hope that the expression of your feeling will be effective
+on the hearts of Christians on the other side of the Atlantic. There are
+Christians there as sincere, as hearty, and as earnest, as any on the
+face of the earth. They have looked at this subject, and been troubled;
+they have hardly known what to do, and their hearts have been
+discouraged. They have almost turned away their eyes from it, because
+they have scarcely dared encounter it, the difficulties appeared to them
+so great. Wrong cannot always receive the support of Christians; wrong
+must be done away with; and what must be--what God requires to be--that
+certainly will be. Now, in this age, man is every where beginning to
+regard the sufferings of his fellow-man as his own. There is an interest
+felt in man, as man, which was not felt in preceding ages. The
+facilities of communication are bringing all nations in contact, and
+whatever wrong exists in any part of the world, is every where felt.
+There are wrongs and sufferings every where; but those to which we are
+accustomed, we look upon with most indifference, because being
+accustomed to them, we do not feel their enormity. You feel the
+enormity of slavery more than we do, because you are not immediately
+interested, and regard it at a distance. We regard some of the wrongs
+that exist in the old world with more sensibility than you can regard
+them, because we are not accustomed to them, and you are. Therefore, in
+the spirit of Christian love, it belongs to Christian men to speak to
+each other with great fidelity. It has been said that you know little or
+nothing about slavery. O, happy men, that you are ignorant of its
+enormities. [Hear, hear!] But you do know something about it. You know
+as much about it as you know of the widow-burning in India, or the
+cannibalism in the Fejee Islands, or any of those crimes and sorrows of
+paganism, that induced you to send forth your missionaries. You know it
+is a great wrong, and a terrible obstacle to the progress of the gospel;
+and that is enough for you to know to induce you to act. You have as
+much knowledge as ever induced a Christian community in any part of the
+world to exert an influence in any other part of the world. Slavery is a
+relic of paganism, of barbarism; it must be removed by Christianity; and
+if the light of Christianity shines on it clearly, it certainly will
+remove it. There are thousands of hearts in the United States that
+rejoice in your help. Whatever expressions of impatience and petulance
+you may hear, be assured that these expressions are not the heart of the
+great body of the people. [Cheers.] A large proportion of that country
+is free from slavery. There is an area of freedom ten times larger than
+Great Britain in territory.[C] [Cheers.] But all the power over the
+slave is in the hands of the slaveholder. You had a power over the
+slaveholder by your national legislature; our national legislature has
+no power over the slaveholder. All the legislation that can in that
+country be brought to bear for the slave, is legislation by the
+slaveholders themselves. There is where the difficulty lies. It is
+altogether by persuasion, Christian counsel, Christian sympathy,
+Christian earnestness, that any good can be effected for the slave. The
+conscience of the people is against the system--the conscience of the
+people, even in the slaveholding states; and if we can but get at the
+conscience without exciting prejudice, it will tend greatly towards the
+desired effect. But this appeal to the conscience must be
+unintermittent, constant. Your hands must not be weary, your prayers
+must not be discontinued; but every day and every hour should we be
+doing something towards the object. It is sometimes said, Americans who
+resist slavery are traitors to their country. No; those who would
+support freedom are the only true friends of their country. Our fathers
+never intended slavery to be identified with the government of the
+United States; but in the temptations of commerce the evil was
+overlooked; and how changed for the worse has become the public
+sentiment even within the last thirty or forty years! The enormous
+increase in the consumption of cotton has raised enormously the market
+value of slaves, and arrayed both avarice and political ambition in
+defence of slavery. Instruct the conscience, and produce free cotton,
+and this will be like Cromwell's exhortation to his soldiers, '_Trust
+in God, and keep your powder dry_.'" [Continued cheers.]
+
+THE REV. DR. R. LEE then said: "I am quite sure that every individual
+here responds cordially to those sentiments of respect and gratitude
+towards our honored guest which have been so well expressed by the Lord
+Provost and the other gentlemen who have addressed us. We think that
+this lady has not only laid us under a great obligation by giving us one
+of the most delightful books in the English language, but that she has
+improved us as men and as Christians, that she has taught us the value
+of our privileges, and made us more sensible than we were before of the
+obligation which lies upon us to promote every good work. I have been
+requested to say a few words on the degradation of American slavery; but
+I feel, in the presence of the gentleman who last addressed you, and of
+those who are still to address you, that it would be almost presumption
+in me to enter on such a subject. It is impossible to speak or to think
+of the subject of slavery without feeling that there is a double
+degradation in the matter; for, in the first place, the slave is a man
+made in the image of God--God's image cut in ebony, as old Thomas Fuller
+quaintly but beautifully said; and what right have we to reduce him to
+the image of a brute, and make property of him? We esteem drunkenness as
+a sin. Why is it a sin? Because it reduces that which was made in the
+image of God to the image of a brute. We say to the drunkard, 'You are
+guilty of a sacrilege, because you reduce that which God made in his own
+image "into the image of an irrational creature."' Slavery does the very
+same. But there is not only a degradation committed as regards the
+slave--there is a degradation also committed against himself by him who
+makes him a slave, and who retains him in the position of a slave; for
+is it not one of the most commonplace of truths that we cannot do a
+wrong to a neighbor without doing a greater wrong to ourselves?--that we
+cannot injure him without also injuring ourselves yet more? I observe
+there is a certain class of writers in America who are fond of
+representing the feeling of this country towards America as one of
+jealousy, if not of hatred.. I think, my lord, that no American ever
+travelled in this country without being conscious at once that this is a
+total mistake--that this is a total misapprehension. I venture to say
+that there is no nation on the face of the earth in which we feel half
+so much interest, or towards which we feel the tenth part of the
+affection, which we do towards our brethren in the United States of
+America. And what is more than that--there is no nation towards which we
+feel one half so much admiration, and for which we feel half so much
+respect, as we do for the people of the United States of America.
+[Cheers.] Why, sir, how can it be otherwise? How is it possible that it
+should be the reverse? Are they not our bone and our flesh? and their
+character, whatever it is, is it any thing more than our own, a little
+exaggerated, perhaps? Their virtues and their vices, their faults and
+their excellences, are just the virtues and the vices, the faults and
+the excellences, of that old respectable freeholder, John Bull, from
+whom they are descended. We are not much surprised that a nation which
+are slaves themselves should make other men slaves. This cannot very
+much surprise us: but we are both surprised and we are deeply grieved,
+that a nation which has conceived so well the idea of freedom--a nation
+which has preached the doctrines of freedom with such boldness and such
+fulness--a nation which has so boldly and perfectly realized its idea of
+freedom in every other respect--should in this only instance have sunk
+so completely below its own idea, and forgetting the rights of one class
+of their fellow-creatures, should have deprived them of freedom
+altogether. I say that our grief and our disapprobation of this in the
+case of our brethren in America arises very much from this, that in
+other respects we admire them so much, we are sorry that so noble a
+nation should allow a blot like this to remain upon its escutcheon. I am
+not ignorant--nobody can be ignorant--of the great difficulties which
+encompass the solution of this question in America. It is vain for us to
+shut our eyes to it. There can be no doubt whatever that great
+sacrifices will require to be made in order to get rid of this great
+evil. But the Americans are a most ingenious people; they are full of
+inventions of all sorts, from the invention of a machine for protecting
+our feet from the water, to a machine for making ships go by means of
+heated air; from the one to the other the whole field of discovery is
+occupied by their inventive genius. There is not an article in common
+use among us but bears some stamp of America. We rise in the morning,
+and before we are dressed we have had half a dozen American articles in
+our hands. And during the day, as we pass through the streets, articles
+of American invention meet us every where. In short, the ingenuity of
+the people is proclaimed all over the world. And there can be no doubt
+that the moment this great, this ingenious people finds that slavery is
+both an evil and a sin, their ingenuity will be successfully exerted in
+discovering some invention for preventing its abolition from ruining
+them altogether. [Cheers.] No doubt their ingenuity will be equal to the
+occasion; and I may take the liberty of adding, that their ingenuity in
+that case will find even a richer reward than it has done in those other
+inventions which have done them so much honor, and been productive of so
+much profit. I say, that sacrifices must be made; there can be no doubt
+about that; but I would also observe, that the longer the evil is
+permitted to continue, the greater and more tremendous will become the
+sacrifice which will be needed to put an end to it; for all history
+proves that a nation encumbered, with slavery is surrounded with danger.
+[Applause.] Has the history of antiquity been written in vain? Does it
+not teach us that not only domestic and social pollutions are the
+inevitable results, but does it not teach us also that political
+insecurity and political revolutions as certainly slumber beneath the
+institution of slavery as fireworks at the basis of Mount Ætna?
+[Cheers.] It cannot but be so. Men no more than steam can be compressed
+without a tremendous revulsion; and let our brethren in America be sure
+of this, that the longer the day of reckoning is put off by them, the
+more tremendous at last that reckoning will Be." [Loud, applause.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In regard to this meeting at Edinburgh, there was a ridiculous story
+circulated and variously commented on in certain newspapers of the
+United States, that _the American flag was there exhibited, insulted,
+torn, and mutilated_. Certain religious papers took the lead in
+propagating the slander, which, so for as I know or can learn, _had no
+foundation_, unless it be that, in the arranging of the flag around its
+staff, the stars might have been more distinctly visible than the
+stripes. The walls were profusely adorned with drapery, and there were
+numerous flags disposed in festoons. Truly a wonderful thing to make a
+story of, and then parade it in the newspapers from Maine to Texas,
+beginning in Philadelphia!
+
+
+PUBLIC MEETING IN ABERDEEN--APRIL 21.
+
+ADDRESS OF THE CITIZENS.
+
+MRS H. BEECHER STOWE.
+
+MADAM: The citizens of Aberdeen have much pleasure in embracing the
+opportunity now afforded them of expressing at once their esteem for
+yourself personally, and their interest in the cause of which you have
+been the distinguished advocate.
+
+While they would, not render a blind homage to mere genius, however
+exalted, they consider genius such as yours, directed by Christian
+principle, as that which, for the welfare of humanity, cannot be too
+highly or too fervently honored.
+
+Without depreciating the labors of the various advocates of slave
+emancipation who have appeared from time to time on both sides of the
+Atlantic, they may conscientiously award to you the praise of having
+brought about the present universal and enthusiastic sentiment in regard
+to the slavery which exists in America.
+
+The galvanic battery may be arranged and charged, every plate, wire, and
+fluid being in its appropriate place; but, until some hand shall bring
+together the extremities of the conducting medium, in vain might we
+expect to elicit the latent fire.
+
+Every heart may throb with the feeling of benevolence, and every mind
+respond to the sentiment that man, in regard to man, should be free and
+equal; but it is the province of genius such as yours to give unity to
+the universal, and find utterance for the felt.
+
+When society has been prepared for some momentous movement or moral
+reformation, so that the hidden thoughts of the people want only an
+interpreter, the thinking community an organ, and suffering humanity a
+champion, distinguished is the honor belonging to the individual in whom
+all these requisites are found combined.
+
+To you has been assigned by Providence the important task of educing the
+latent emotions of humanity, and waking the music that slumbered in the
+chords of the universal human heart, till it has pealed forth in one
+deep far rolling and harmonious anthem, of which the heavenly burden is,
+"Liberty to the captive, and the opening of the prison to them that are
+bound!"
+
+The production of your accomplished pen, which has already called forth
+such unqualified eulogy from almost every land where Anglo-Saxon
+literature finds access, and created so sudden and fervent an excitement
+on the momentous subject of American slavery, has nowhere been hailed
+with a more cordial welcome, or produced more salutary effects, than in
+the city of Aberdeen.
+
+Though long ago imbued, with antislavery principles and interested in
+the progress of liberty in every part of the world, our community, like
+many others, required such information, suggestions, and appeals as your
+valuable work contains in one great department of slavery, in order that
+their interest might be turned into a specific direction, and their
+principles reduced, to combined practical effort.
+
+Already they have esteemed it a privilege to engage with some activity
+in the promotion of the interests of the fugitive slave; and they shall
+henceforth regard with a deeper interest than ever the movements of
+their American brethren in this matter, until there exists among them no
+slavery from which to flee.
+
+While they participate in your abhorrence of slavery in the American
+states, they trust they need scarcely assure you that they participate
+also in your love for the American people.
+
+It is in proportion as they love that nation, attached to them by so
+many ties, that they lament the existence of a system which, so long as
+it exists, must bring odium upon the national character, as it cannot
+fail to enfeeble and impair their best social institutions.
+
+They believe it to be a maxim that man cannot hold his fellow-man in
+slavery without being himself to some extent enslaved. And of this the
+censorship of the press, together with the expurgatorial indices of
+various religious societies in the Southern States of America, furnish
+ample corroboration.
+
+It is hoped that your own nation may speedily be directed to recognize
+you as its best friend, for having stood forth in the spirit of true
+patriotism to advocate the claims of a large portion of your countrymen,
+and to seek the removal of an evil which has done much to neutralize the
+moral influence of your country's best (and otherwise free)
+institutions.
+
+Accept, then, from the community of Aberdeen their congratulations on
+the high literary fame which you have by a single effort so deservedly
+acquired, and their grateful acknowledgments for your advocacy of a
+cause in which the best interests of humanity are involved.
+
+Signed in name and by appointment of a public meeting of the citizens of
+Aberdeen within the County Buildings, this 21st April, 1853, A.D.
+
+GEO. HESSAY,
+
+_Provost of Aberdeen_.
+
+
+PUBLIC MEETING IN DUNDEE--APRIL 22.
+
+
+MR. GILFILLAN, who was received with great applause, said he had been
+intrusted by the Committee of the Ladies' Antislavery Association to
+present the following address to Mrs. Stowe, which he would read to the
+meeting:--
+
+"MADAM: We, the ladies of the Dundee Antislavery Association, desire to
+add our feeble voices to the acclamations of a world, conscious that
+your fame and character need no testimony from us. We are less anxious
+to honor you than to prove that our appreciation and respect are no less
+sincere and no less profound than those of the millions in other places
+and other lands, whom you have instructed, improved, delighted, and
+thrilled. We beg permission to lay before you the expressions of a
+gratitude and an enthusiasm in some measure commensurate with your
+transcendent literary merit and moral worth. We congratulate you on the
+success of the _chef-d'oeuvre_ of your genius, a success altogether
+unparalleled, and in all probability never to be paralleled in the
+history of literature. We congratulate you still more warmly on that
+nobility and benevolence of nature which made you from childhood the
+friend of the unhappy slave, and led you to accumulate unconsciously the
+materials for the immortal tale of Uncle Tom's Cabin. We congratulate
+you in having in that tale supported with matchless eloquence and pathos
+the cause of the crushed, the forgotten, the injured, of those who had
+no help of man at all, and who had even been blasphemously taught by
+professed ministers of the gospel of mercy that Heaven too was opposed
+to their liberation, and had blotted them out from the catalogue of man.
+We recognize, too, with delight, the spirit of enlightened and
+evangelical piety which breathes through your work, and serves to
+confute the calumny that none but infidels are interested in the cause
+of abolition--a calumny which cuts at Christianity with a yet sharper
+edge than at abolition, but which you have proved to be a foul and
+malignant falsehood. We congratulate you not only on the richness of the
+laurels which you have won, but on the dignity, the meekness, and the
+magnanimity with which these laurels have been worn. We hail in you our
+most gifted sister in the great cause of liberty--we bid you warmly
+welcome to our city, and we pray Almighty God, the God of the oppressed,
+to pour his selectest blessings on your head, and to spare your
+invaluable life, till yours, and ours, and others' efforts for the cause
+of abolition are crowned with success, and till the shouts of a
+universal jubilee shall proclaim that in all quarters of the globe the
+African is free."
+
+The address was handed to Mrs. Stowe amid great applause. MR. GILFILLAN
+continued: "In addition to the address which I have now read, I have
+been requested to add a few remarks; and in making these I cannot but
+congratulate Dundee on the fact that Mrs. Stowe has visited it, and that
+she has had a reception worthy of her distinguished merits. [Applause.]
+It is not Dundee alone that is present here to-night: it is
+Forfarshire, Fifeshire, and I may also add, Perthshire:--that are here
+to do honor to themselves in doing honor to our illustrious guest.
+[Cheers.] There are assembled here representatives of the general
+feeling that boils in the whole land--not from our streets alone, but
+from our country valleys--from our glens and our mountains O! I wish
+that Mrs. Stowe would but spare time to go herself and study that
+enthusiasm amid its own mountain recesses, amid the uplands and the
+friths, and the wild solitudes of our own unconquered and unconquerable
+land. She would see scenery there worthy of that pencil which has
+painted so powerfully the glories of the Mississippi; ay, and she would
+find her name known and reverenced in every hamlet, and see copies of
+Uncle Tom's Cabin in the shepherd's shieling, beside Bunyan's Pilgrim's
+Progress, the Life of Sir William Wallace, Rob Roy, and the Gaelic
+Bible. I saw copies of it carried by travellers last autumn among the
+gloomy grandeurs of Glencoe, and, as Coleridge once said when he saw
+Thomson's Seasons lying in a Welsh wayside inn, 'That is true fame,' I
+thought this was fame truer still. [Applause.] It is too late in the day
+to criticize Uncle Tom's Cabin, or to speculate on its unprecedented
+history--a history which seems absolutely magical. Why, you are reminded
+of Aladdin's lamp, and of the palace that was reared by genii in one
+night. Mrs. Stowe's genius has done a greater wonder than this--it has
+reared in a marvellously short time a structure which, unlike that
+Arabian fabric, is a reality, and shall last forever. [Applause.] She
+must not be allowed, to depreciate herself, and to call her glorious
+book a mere 'bubble.' Such a bubble there never was before. I wish we
+had ten thousand such bubbles. [Applause.] If it had been a bubble it
+would have broken long ago. 'Man,' says Jeremy Taylor, 'is a bubble.'
+Yea, but he is an immortal one. And such an immortal bubble is Uncle
+Tom's Cabin; it can only with man expire; and yet a year ago not ten
+individuals in this vast assembly had ever heard of its author's name.
+[Applause.] At its artistic merits we may well marvel--to find in a
+small volume the descriptive power of a Scott, the humor of a Dickens,
+the keen, observing glance of a Thackeray, the pathos of a Richardson or
+Mackenzie, combined with qualities of earnestness, simplicity, humanity,
+and womanhood peculiar to the author herself. But there are three things
+which, strike me as peculiarly remarkable about Uncle Tom's Cabin: it is
+the work of an American--of a woman--and of an evangelical Christian.
+[Cheers.] We have long been accustomed to despise American literature--I
+mean as compared with our own. I have heard eminent _litterateurs_ say,
+'Pshaw! the Americans have no national literature.' It was thought that
+they lived entirely on plunder--the plunder of poor slaves, and of poor
+British authors. [Loud cheers.] Their own works, when, they came among
+us, were treated either with contempt or with patronizing wonder--yes,
+the 'Sketch Book' was a very good book to be an American's. To parody
+two lines of Pope, we
+
+  Admired such wisdom in a Yankee shape,
+  And showed an Irving as they show an ape.'
+
+[Loud cheers.] And yet, strange to tell, not only of late have we been
+almost deluged with editions of new and excellent American writers, but
+the most popular book of the century has appeared on the west side of
+the Atlantic. Let us hear no more of the poverty of American brains, or
+the barrenness of American literature. Had it produced only Uncle Tom's
+Cabin, it had evaded contempt just as certainly as Don Quixote, had
+there been no other product of the Spanish mind, would have rendered it
+forever illustrious. It is the work of a woman, too! None but a woman
+could have written it. There are in the human mind springs at once
+delicate and deep, which only the female genius can understand, or the
+female finger touch. Who but a female could have created the gentle Eva,
+painted the capricious and selfish Marie St. Clair, or turned loose a
+Topsy upon the wondering world? [Loud and continued cheering.] And it is
+to my mind exceedingly delightful, and it must be humiliating to our
+opponents, to remember that the severest stroke to American slavery has
+been given by a woman's hand. [Loud cheers.] It was the smooth stone
+from the brook which, sent from the hand of a youthful David, overthrew
+Goliath of Gath; but I am less reminded of this than of another incident
+in Scripture history. When the robber and oppressor of Israel,
+Abimelech, who had slain his brethren, was rushing against a tower,
+whither his enemies had fled, we are told that 'a certain woman cast a
+piece of a millstone upon Abimelech's head, and all to break his skull,'
+and that he cried hastily to the young man, his armor-bearer, and said
+unto him, 'Draw thy sword, and slay me, that men say not of me, A woman
+slew him.' It is a parable of our present position. Mrs. Stowe has
+thrown a piece of millstone, sharp and strong, at the skull of the giant
+abomination of her country; he is reeling in his death pangs, and, in
+the fury of his despair and shame, is crying, but crying in vain, 'Say
+not, A woman slew me!' [Applause.] But the world shall say, 'A woman
+slew him,' or, at least, 'gave him the first blow, and drove him to
+despair and suicide.' [Cheers.] Lastly, it is the work of an evangelical
+Christian; and the piety of the book has greatly contributed to its
+power. It has forever wiped away the vile calumny, that all who love
+their African brother hate their God and Savior. I look, indeed, on Mrs.
+Stowe's volume, not only as a noble contribution to the cause of
+emancipation, but to the general cause of Christianity. It is an olive
+leaf in a dove's mouth, testifying that the waters of scepticism, which
+have rolled more fearfully far in America than here,--and no wonder, if
+the Christianity of America in general is a slaveholding, man-stealing,
+soul-murdering Christianity--that they are abating, and that genuine
+liberty and evangelical religion are soon to clasp hands, and to smile
+in unison on the ransomed, regenerated, and truly 'United States.' [Loud
+and reiterated applause.]"
+
+
+ADDRESS OF THE STUDENTS OF GLASGOW UNIVERSITY--APRIL 25.
+
+This address is particularly gratifying on account of its recognition of
+the use of intoxicating drinks as an evil analogous to slaveholding, and
+to be eradicated by similar means. The two reforms are in all respects
+similar movements, to be promoted in the same manner and with the same
+spirit.
+
+MRS. HARRIET BEECHER STOWE.
+
+MADAM: The Committee of the Glasgow University Abstainers' Society,
+representing nearly one hundred students, embrace the opportunity which
+you have so kindly afforded them, of expressing their high esteem for
+you, and their appreciation of your noble efforts in behalf of the
+oppressed. They cordially join in the welcome with which you have been
+so justly received on these shores, and earnestly hope and pray that
+your visit may be beneficial to your own health, and tend greatly to the
+furtherance of Christian philanthropy.
+
+The committee have had their previous convictions confirmed, and their
+hearts deeply affected, by your vivid and faithful delineations of
+slavery; and they desire to join with thousands on both sides of the
+Atlantic, who offer fervent thanksgiving to God for having endowed you
+with those rare gifts, which have qualified you for producing the
+noblest testimony against slavery, next to the Bible, which the world
+has ever received.
+
+While giving all the praise to God, from whom cometh every good and
+perfect gift, they may be excused for mentioning three characteristics
+of your writings regarding slavery, which awakened their admiration--a
+sensibility befitting the anguish of suffering millions; the graphic
+power which presents to view the complex and hideous system, stripped of
+all its deceitful disguises; and the moral courage that was required to
+encounter the monster, and drag it forth to the gaze and the execration
+of mankind.
+
+The committee feel humbled in being called to confess and deplore, as
+existing among ourselves, another species of slavery, not less ruinous
+in its tendency, and not less criminal in the sight of God--we mean the
+slavery by strong drink. We feel too much ashamed of the sad preëminence
+which these nations have acquired in regard to this vice to take any
+offence at the reproaches cast upon us from across the Atlantic. Such
+smiting shall not break our head. We are anxious to profit by it. Yet
+when it is used as an argument to justify slavery, or to silence our
+respectful but earnest remonstrances, we take exception to the
+parallelism on which these arguments are made to rest. We do not justify
+our slavery. We do not try to defend it from the Scriptures. We do not
+make laws to uphold it. The unhappy victims of our slavery have all
+forged and riveted their own fetters. We implore them to forbear; but,
+alas! in many cases without success. We invite them to be free, and
+offer our best assistance to undo their bonds. When a fugitive slave
+knocks at our door, escaping from a cruel master, we try to accost him
+in the spirit or in the words of a well-known philanthropist, "Come in,
+brother, and get warm, and get thy breakfast." And when distinguished
+American philanthropists, who have done so much to undo the heavy
+burdens in their own land, come over to assist us, we hail their advent
+with rejoicing, and welcome them as benefactors. We are well aware that
+a corresponding feeling would be manifested in the United States by a
+portion, doubtless a large portion, of the population; but certainly not
+by those who justify or palliate their own oppression by a reference to
+our lamentable intemperance.
+
+We rejoice, madam, to know that as abstainers we can claim an important
+place, pot only in your sympathies, but in your literary labors. We
+offer our hearty thanks for the valuable contributions you have already
+furnished in that momentous cause, and for the efforts of that
+distinguished family with which you are connected.
+
+We bear our testimony to the mighty impulse imparted to the public mind
+by the extensive circulation of those memorable sermons which your
+honored father gave to Europe, as well as to America, more than
+twenty-five years ago. It will be pleasing to him to know that the force
+of his arguments is felt in British universities to the present time,
+and that not only students in augmenting numbers, but learned
+professors, acknowledge their cogency and yield to their power.
+
+Permit us to add that a movement has already begun, in an influential
+quarter in England, for the avowed purpose of combining the patriotism
+and Christianity of these nations in a strenuous agitation for the
+suppression, by the legislature, of the traffic in alcoholic drinks.
+
+In conclusion, the committee have only further to express their cordial
+thanks for your kindness in receiving their address, and their desire
+and prayer that you may be long spared to glorify God, by promoting the
+highest interests of man; that if it so please him, you may live to see
+the glorious fruit of your labors here cm earth, and that hereafter you
+may meet the blessed salutation, "Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one
+of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it unto me."
+
+NORMAN S. KERR, _Secretary_.
+
+STEWART BATES, _President_.
+
+GLASGOW, 25th April, 1853.
+
+
+LOUD MAYOR'S DINNER AT THE MANSION HOUSE, LONDON--MAY 2.
+
+MR. JUSTICE TALFOURD,[D] having spoken of the literature of England and
+America, alluded to two distinguished authors then present. The one was
+a lady, who had shed a lustre on the literature of America, and whose
+works were deeply engraven on every English heart. He spoke
+particularly of the consecration of so much genius to so noble a
+cause--the cause of humanity; and expressed the confident hope that the
+great American people would see and remedy the wrongs so vividly
+depicted. The learned judge, having paid an eloquent tribute to the
+works of Mr. Charles Dickens, concluded by proposing "Mr. Charles
+Dickens and the literature of the Anglo-Saxons."
+
+Mr. CHARLES DICKENS returned thanks. In referring to Mrs. H.B. Stowe, he
+observed that, in returning thanks, he could not forget he was in the
+presence of a stranger who was the authoress of a noble book, with a
+noble purpose. But he had no right to call her a stranger, for she would
+find a welcome in every English home.
+
+
+STAFFORD HOUSE RECEPTION--MAY 7.
+
+The DUKE OF SUTHERLAND having introduced Mrs. Stowe to the assembly, the
+following short address was read and presented to her by the EARL OF
+SHAFTESBURY:--
+
+"Madam: I am deputed by the Duchess of Sutherland, and the ladies of the
+two committees appointed to conduct 'The Address from the Women of
+England, to the Women of America on the Subject of Slavery,' to express
+the high gratification they feel in your presence amongst them this day.
+
+"The address, which has received considerably more than half a million
+of the signatures of the women of Great Britain and Ireland, they have
+already transmitted to the United States, consigning it to the care of
+those whom you have nominated as fit and zealous persons to undertake
+the charge in your absence.
+
+"The earnest desire of these committees, and, indeed, we may say of the
+whole kingdom, is to cultivate the most friendly and affectionate
+relations between the two countries; and we cannot but believe that we
+are fostering such a feeling when we avow our deep admiration of an
+American lady who, blessed by the possession of vast genius and
+intellectual powers, enjoys the still higher blessing, that she devotes
+them to the glory of God and the temporal and eternal interests of the
+human race."
+
+The following is a copy of the address to which Lord Shaftesbury makes
+reference:--
+
+"_The affectionate and Christian Address of many thousands of Women of
+Great Britain and Ireland to their Sisters, the Women of the United
+States of America_.
+
+"A common origin, a common faith, and, we sincerely believe, a common
+cause, urge us at the present moment to address you on the subject of
+that system of negro slavery which still prevails so extensively, and
+even under kindly-disposed masters, with such frightful results, in many
+of the vast regions of the western world.
+
+"We will not dwell on the ordinary topics--on the progress of
+civilization; on the advance of freedom every where; on the rights and
+requirements of the nineteenth century; but we appeal to you very
+seriously to reflect, and to ask counsel of God, how far such a state
+of things is in accordance with his holy word, the inalienable rights of
+immortal souls, and the pure and merciful spirit of the Christian
+religion.
+
+"We do not shut our eyes to the difficulties, nay, the dangers, that
+might beset the immediate abolition of that long-established system; we
+see and admit the necessity of preparation for so great an event; but in
+speaking of indispensable preliminaries, we cannot be silent on those
+laws of your country which, in direct contravention of God's own law,
+instituted in the time of man's innocency, deny, in effect, to the slave
+the sanctity of marriage, with all its joys, rights, and obligations;
+which separate, at the will of the master, the wife from the husband,
+and the children from the parents. Nor can we be silent on that awful
+system which, either by statute or by custom, interdicts to any race of
+men, or any portion of the human family, education in the truths of the
+gospel, and the ordinances of Christianity.
+
+"A remedy applied to these two evils alone would commence the
+amelioration of their sad condition. We appeal to you, then, as sisters,
+as wives, and as mothers, to raise your voices to your fellow-citizens,
+and your prayers to God, for the removal of this affliction from the
+Christian world. We do not say these things in a spirit of
+self-complacency, as though our nation were free from the guilt it
+perceives in others. We acknowledge with grief and shame our heavy share
+in this great sin. We acknowledge that our forefathers introduced, nay,
+compelled the adoption of slavery in those mighty colonies. We humbly
+confess it before Almighty God; and it is because we so deeply feel, and
+so unfeignedly avow, our own complicity, that we now venture to implore
+your aid to wipe away our common crime, and our common dishonor."
+
+
+CONGREGATIONAL UNION--MAY 13.
+
+The REV. JOHN ANGELL JAMES said, "I will only for one moment revert to
+the resolution.[E] It does equal honor to the head, and the heart, and
+the pen of the man who drew it. Beautiful in language, Christian in
+spirit, noble and generous in design, it is just such a resolution as I
+shall be glad to see emanate from the Congregational body, and find its
+way across the Atlantic to America. Sir, we speak most powerfully, when,
+though we speak firmly, we speak in kindness; and there is nothing in
+that resolution that can, by possibility, offend the most fastidious
+taste of any individual present, or any individual in the world, who
+takes the same views of the evil of slavery, in itself, as we do. [Hear,
+hear!] I shall not trespass long upon the attention of this audience,
+for we are all impatient to hear Professor Stowe speak in his own name,
+and in the name of that distinguished lady whom it is his honor and his
+happiness to call his wife. [Loud cheers.] His station and his
+acquirements, his usefulness in America, his connection with our body,
+his representation of the Pilgrim Fathers who bore the light of
+Christianity to his own country, all make him welcome here. [Cheers.]
+But he will not be surprised if it is not on his own account merely that
+we give him welcome, but also on account of that distinguished woman to
+whom so marked an allusion has already been made. To her, I am sure, we
+shall tender no praise, except the praise that comes to her from a
+higher source than ours; from One who has, by the testimony of her own
+conscience, echoing the voice from above, said to her, 'Well done, good
+and faithful servant.' Long, sir, may it be before the completion of the
+sentence; before the welcome shall be given to her, when she shall hear
+him say, 'Enter thou into the joy of thy Lord.' [Loud cheers.] But,
+though we praise her not, or praise with chastened language, we would
+say, Madam, we do thank you from the bottom of our hearts, [Hear, hear!
+and immense cheering,] for rising up to vindicate our outraged humanity;
+for rising up to expound the principles of our still nobler
+Christianity. For my own part, it is not merely as an exposition of the
+evils of slavery that makes me hail that wondrous volume to our country
+and to the world; but it is the living exposition of the principles of
+the gospel that it contains, and which will expound those principles to
+many an individual who would not hear them from our lips, nor read them
+from our pens. I maintain, that Uncle Tom is one of the most beautiful
+imbodiments of the Christian religion that was ever presented in this
+world. [Loud cheers.] And it is that which makes me take such delight in
+it. I rejoice that she killed him. [Laughter and cheers.] He must die
+under the slave lash--he must die, the martyr of slavery, and receive
+the crown of martyrdom from both worlds for his testimony to the truth.
+[Turning to Mrs. Stowe, Mr. James continued:] May the Lord God reward
+you for what you have done; we cannot, madam--we cannot do it. [Cheers.]
+We rejoice in the perfect assurance, in the full confidence, that the
+arrow which is to pierce the system of slavery to the heart has been
+shot, and shot by a female hand. Right home to the mark it will go.
+[Cheers.] It is true, the monster may groan and struggle for a long
+while yet; but die it will; die it must--under the potency of that book.
+[Loud cheers.] It never can recover. It will be your satisfaction,
+perhaps, in this world, madam, to see the reward of your labors. Heaven
+grant that your life may be prolonged, until such time as you see the
+reward of your labors in the striking off of the last fetter of the last
+slave that still pollutes the soil of your beloved country. [Cheers.]
+For beloved it is; and I should do dishonor to your patriotism if I did
+not say it--beloved it is; and you are prepared to echo the sentiments,
+by changing the terms, which we often hear in old England, and say,--
+
+  'America! with all thy faults I love thee still!'
+
+But still more intense will be my affection, and pure and devoted the
+ardor of my patriotism, when this greatest of all thine ills, this
+darkest of the blots upon thine escutcheon, shall be wiped out forever."
+[Loud applause.]
+
+The REV. PROFESSOR STOWE rose amid loud, and repeated cheers, and said,
+"It is extremely painful for me to speak on the subject of American
+slavery, and especially out of the borders of my own country. [Hear,
+hear!] I hardly know whether painful or pleasurable emotions
+predominate, when I look upon the audience to which I speak. I feel a
+very near affinity to the Congregationalists of England, and especially
+to the Congregationalists of London. [Cheers.] My ancestors were
+residents of London; at least, from the time of Edward III.; they lived
+in Cornhill and Leadenhall Street, and their bones lie buried in the old
+church of St. Andrew Under-Shaft; and, in the year 1632, on account of
+their nonconformity, they were obliged to seek refuge in the State of
+Massachusetts; and I have always felt a love and a veneration for the
+Congregational churches of England, more than for any other churches in
+any foreign land. [Cheers.] I can only hope, that my conduct, as a
+religious man and a minister of Christ, may not bring discredit upon my
+ancestors, and upon the honorable origin which I claim. [Hear! and
+cheers.] I wish to say, in the first place, that in the United States
+the Congregational churches, as a body, are free from slavery. [Cheers.]
+I do not think that there is a Congregational church in the United
+States in which a member could openly hold a slave without subjecting
+himself to discipline.[F] True, I have met with churches very deficient
+in their duty on this subject, and I am afraid there are members of
+Congregational churches who hold slaves secretly as security for debt in
+the Southern States. At the last great Congregational Convention, held
+in the city of Albany, the churches took a step on the subject of
+slavery much in advance of any other great ecclesiastical body in the
+country. I hope it is but the beginning of a series of measures that
+will eventuate in the separation of this body from all connection with
+slavery. [Hear, hear!] I am extensively acquainted with the United
+States; I have lived in different sections of them; I am familiar with
+people of all classes, and it is my solemn conviction, that nine tenths
+of the people feel on the subject of slavery as you do;[G] [cheers;]
+perhaps not so intensely, for familiarity with wrong deadens the
+conscience; but their convictions are altogether as yours are; and in
+the slaveholding states, and among slaveholders themselves, conscience
+is against the system. [Cheers.] There is no legislative control of the
+subject of slavery, except by slaveholding legislators themselves.
+Congress has no right to do any thing in the premises. They violated the
+constitution, as I believe, in passing the Fugitive Slave Act. [Cheers.]
+I do not believe they had any right to pass it. [Hear, hear!] I stand
+here not as the representative of any body whatever. I only represent
+myself, and give you my individual convictions, that have been produced
+by a long and painful connection with the subject. [Hear, hear!] As to
+the resolution, I approve it entirely. Its sentiment and its spirit are
+my own. [Cheers.] At the close of the revolutionary war, which separated
+the colonies from the mother country, every state of the Union was a
+slaveholding state; every colony was a slaveholding colony; and now we
+have seventeen free states. [Cheers.] Slavery has been abolished in one
+half of the original colonies, and it was declared that there should be
+neither slavery nor the slave trade in any territory north and west of
+the Ohio River; so that all that part is entirely free from actual
+active participation in this curse, laying open a free territory that, I
+think, must be ten times larger in extent than Great Britain. [Loud
+cheers.] The State of Massachusetts was the first in which slavery
+ceased. How did it cease? By an enactment of the legislature? Not at
+all. They did not feel there was any necessity for such an enactment.
+The Bill of Rights declared, that all men were born free, and that they
+had an equal right to the pursuit of happiness and the acquisition of
+property. In contradiction to that, there were slaves in every part of
+Massachusetts; and some philanthropic individual advised a slave to
+bring into court an action for wages against his master during all his
+time of servitude. The action was brought, and the court decided that
+the negro was entitled to wages during the whole period. [Cheers.] That
+put an end to slavery in Massachusetts, and that decision ought to have
+put an end to slavery in all states of the Union, because the law
+applied to all. They abolished slavery in all the Northern States--in
+Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Connecticut, and Rhode Island; and it was
+expected that the whole of the states would follow the example. When I
+was a child, I never heard a lisp in defence of slavery. [Hear, hear,
+hear!] Every body condemned it; all looked upon it as a great curse, and
+all regarded it as a temporary evil, which would soon melt away before
+the advancing light of truth. [Hear, hear!] But still there was great
+injustice done to those who had been slaves. Every body regarded the
+colored race as a degraded race; they were looked upon as inferior; they
+were not upon terms of social equality. The only thing approaching it
+was, that the colored children attended the schools with the white
+children, and took their places on the same forms; but in all other
+respects they were excluded from the common advantages and privileges of
+society. In the places of worship they were seated by themselves; and
+that difference always existed till these discussions came up, and they
+began to feel mortified at their situation; and hence, wherever they
+could, they had worship by themselves, and began to build places of
+worship for themselves; and now you will scarcely find a colored person
+occupying a seat in our places of worship. This stain still remains, and
+it is but a type of the feeling that has been generated by slavery. This
+ought to be known and understood, and this is just one of the
+out-croppings of that inward feeling that still is doing great injustice
+to the colored race; but there are symptoms of even that giving way.
+
+"I suppose you all remember Dr. Pennington--[cheers]--a colored minister
+of great talent and excellence--[Hear, hear!]--though born a slave, and
+for many years was a fugitive slave. [Hear, hear.] Dr. Pennington is a
+member of the presbytery of New York; and within the last six months he
+has been chosen moderator of that presbytery. [Loud cheers.] He has
+presided in that capacity at the ordination of a minister to one of the
+most respectable churches of that city. So far so good--we rejoice in
+it, and we hope that the same sense of justice which has brought about
+that change, so that a colored man can be moderator of a Presbytery in
+the city of New York, will go on, till full justice is done to these
+people, and until the grievous wrongs to which they have been subjected
+will be entirely done away. [Cheers.] But still, what is the aspect
+which the great American nation now presents to the Christian world?
+Most sorry am I to say it; but it is just this--a Christian republic
+upholding slavery--the only great nation on earth that does uphold it--a
+great Christian republic, which, so far as the white people are
+concerned, is the fairest and most prosperous nation on earth--that
+great Christian republic using all the power of its government to secure
+and to shield this horrible institution of negro slavery from
+aggression; and there is no subject on which the government is so
+sensitive--there is no institution which it manifests such a
+determination to uphold. [Hear, hear!] And then the most melancholy fact
+of all is, that the entire Christian church in that republic, with few
+exceptions, are silent, or are apologists for this great wrong. [Hear,
+hear!] It makes my heart bleed to think of it; and there are many
+praying and weeping in secret places over this curse, whose voices are
+not heard. There is such a pressure on the subject, it is so mixed up
+with other things, that many sigh over it who know not what to say or
+what to do in reference to it. And what kind of slavery is it? Is it
+like the servitude under the Mosaic law, which is brought forward to
+defend it? Nothing like it. Let me read you a little extract from a
+correspondent of a New York paper, writing from Paris. I will read it,
+because it is so graphic, and because I wish to show from what sources
+you may best ascertain the real nature of American slavery. The
+commercial newspapers, published by slaveholders, in slaveholding
+states, will give you a far more graphic idea of what slavery actually
+is, than you have from Uncle Tom's Cabin; for there the most horrible
+features are softened. This writer says, 'And now a word on American
+representatives abroad. I have already made my complaint of the troubles
+brought on Americans here by that "incendiary" book of Mrs. Stowe's,
+especially of the difficulty we have in making the French understand our
+institutions. But there was one partially satisfactory way of answering
+their questions, by saying that Uncle Tom's Cabin was a romance. And
+this would have served the purpose pretty well, and spared our blushes
+for the model republic, if the slaveholders themselves would only
+withhold their testimony to the truth of what we were willing to let
+pass as fiction. But they are worse than Mrs. Stowe herself, and their
+writings are getting to be quoted here quite extensively. The _Moniteur_
+of to-day, and another widely-circulated journal that lies on my table,
+both contain extracts from those extremely incendiary periodicals, _The
+National Intelligencer_, of February 11, and _The N.O. Picayune_, of
+February 17. The first gives an auctioneer's advertisement of the sale
+of "a negro boy of eighteen years, a negro girl aged sixteen, three
+horses, saddles, bridles, wheelbarrows," &c. Then follows an account of
+the sale, which reads very much like the description, in the dramatic
+_feuilletons_ here, of a famous scene in the _Case de l'Oncle Tom_, as
+played at the _Ambigu Comique_. The second extract is the advertisement
+of "our esteemed fellow-citizen, Mr. M.C.G.," who presents his "respects
+to the inhabitants of O. and the neighbouring parishes," and "informs
+them that he keeps a fine pack of dogs trained to catch negroes," &c. It
+is painful to think that there are men in our country who will write,
+and that there are others found to publish, such tales as these about
+our peculiar institution. I put it to Mr. G., if he thinks it is
+patriotic. As a "fellow-citizen," and in his private relations, G. may
+be an estimable man, for aught I know, a Christian and a scholar, and an
+ornament to the social circles of O. and the neighboring parishes. But
+as an author, G. becomes public property, and a fair theme for
+criticism; and in that capacity, I say G. is publishing the shame of his
+country. I call him G., without the prefatory Mister, not from any
+personal disrespect, much as I am grieved at his course as a writer, but
+because he is now breveted for immortality, and goes down to posterity,
+like other immortals, without titular prefix.' [Cheers.] Now, here is
+where you get the true features of slavery. What is the reason that the
+churches, as a general thing, are silent--that some of them are
+apologists, and that some, in the extreme Southern States, actually
+defend slavery, and say it is a good institution, and sanctioned by
+Scripture? It is simply this--the overwhelming power of the slave
+system; and whence comes that overwhelming power? It comes from its
+great influence in the commercial world. [Hear!] Until the time that
+cotton became so extensively an article of export, there was not a word
+said in defence of slavery, as far as I know, in the United States. In
+1818, the Presbyterian General Assembly passed resolutions unanimously
+on the subject of slavery, to which this resolution is mildness itself;
+and not a man could be found to say one word against it. But cotton
+became a most valuable article of export. In one form and another, it
+became intimately associated with the commercial affairs of the whole
+country. The northern manufacturers were intimately connected with this
+cotton trade, and more than two thirds raised in the United States has
+been sold in Great Britain; and it is this cotton trade that supports
+the whole system. That you may rely upon. The sugar and rice, so far as
+the United States are concerned, are but small interests. The system is
+supported by this cotton trade, and within two days I have seen an
+article written with vigor in the _Charleston Mercury_, a southern paper
+of great influence, saying, that the slaveholders are becoming isolated,
+by the force of public opinion, from the rest of the world. They are
+beginning to be regarded as inhuman tyrants, and the slaves the victims
+of their cruelty; but, says the writer, just so long as you take our
+cotton, we shall have our slaves. Now, you are as really involved in
+this matter as we are--[Hear, hear!]--and if you have no other right to
+speak on the subject, you have a right to speak from being yourselves
+very active participators in the wrong. You have a great deal of feeling
+on the subject, honorable and generous feeling, I know--an earnest,
+philanthropic, Christian feeling; but if you have nothing to do, that
+feeling will all evaporate, and leave an apathy behind. Now, here is
+something to be done. It may be a small beginning, but, as you go
+forward, Providence will develop other plans, and the more you do, the
+further you will see. I am happy to know that a beginning has been made.
+There are indications that a way has been so opened in providence that
+this exigency can be met. Within the last few years, the Chinese have
+begun to emigrate to the western parts of the United States. They will
+maintain themselves on small wages; and wherever they come into actual
+competition with slave labor, it cannot compete with them. Very many of
+the slaveholders have spoken of this as a very remarkable indication. If
+slavery had been confined to the original slave states, as it was
+intended, slavery could not have lived. It was the intention that it
+should never go beyond those boundaries. Had this been the case, it
+would increase the number of slaves so much that they would have been
+valueless as articles of property. I must say this for America, that the
+slaves increase in the slave states faster than the white people; and it
+shows that their physical condition is better than was that of the
+slaves at the West Indies, or in Cuba, where the number actually
+diminished. We must have more slave territories to make our slaves
+valuable, and there was the origin of that iniquitous Mexican war,
+whereby was added the vast territory of Texas; and then it was the
+intention to make California a slave state; but, I am happy to say, it
+has been received into the Union as a free state, and God grant it may
+continue so. [Hear, hear!] What has been the effect of this expansion of
+slave territory? It has doubled the value of slaves. Since I can
+remember, a strong slave man would sell for about four hundred or six
+hundred dollars--that is, about one hundred pounds; but now, during the
+present season, I have known instances in which a slave man has been
+sold for two hundred and thirty pounds. There are more slaves raised in
+Virginia and Maryland than they can use in those states in labor, and,
+therefore, they sell them at one hundred, two hundred, or three hundred
+pounds, as the case may be, for cash. All that Mrs. Tyler intimates in
+that letter about slavery in America, and the impression it is
+calculated and intended to convey, that they treat their slaves so well,
+and do not separate their families, and so forth, is all mere humbug.
+[Laughter and cheers.] It is well known that Virginia has more profit
+from selling negroes than from any other source. The great sources of
+profit are tobacco and negroes, and they derive more from the sale of
+negroes than tobacco. You see the temptation this gives to avarice.
+Suppose there is a man with no property, except fifteen or twenty negro
+men, whom he can sell, each one for two hundred pounds, cash; and he has
+as many negro women, whom he can sell for one hundred and fifty pounds,
+cash, and the children for one hundred pounds each: here is a temptation
+to avarice; and it is calculated to silence the voice of conscience; and
+it is the expansion of the slave territory, and the immense mercantile
+value of the cotton, that has brought so powerful an influence to bear
+on the United States in favor of slavery. [Hear, hear.] Now, as to free
+labor coming into competition with slave labor: You will see, that when
+the price of slaves is so enormous, it requires an immense outlay to
+stock a plantation. A good plantation would take two hundred, or three
+hundred hands. Now, say for every hand employed on this plantation, the
+man must pay on an average two hundred pounds, which is not exorbitant
+at the present time. If he has to pay at this rate, what an immense
+outlay of capital to begin with, and how great the interest on that sum
+continually accumulating! And then there is the constant exposure to
+loss. These plantation negroes are very careless of life, and often
+cholera gets among them, and sweeps off twenty-five or thirty in a few
+days; and then there is the underground railroad, and, with all the
+precautions that can be taken, it continues to work. And now you see
+what an immense risk, and exposure to loss, and a vast outlay of
+capital, there is in connection with this system. But, if a man takes a
+cotton farm, and can employ Chinese laborers, he can get them for one or
+two shillings a day, and they will do the work as well, if not better
+than negroes, and there is no outlay or risk. [Hear, hear!]. If good
+cotton fields can be obtained, as they may in time, here is an opening
+which will tend to weaken the slave system. If Christians will
+investigate this subject, and if philanthropists generally will pursue
+these inquiries in an honest spirit, it is not long before we shall see
+a movement throughout the civilized world, and the upholders of slavery
+will feel, where they feel most acutely--in their pockets. Until
+something of this kind is done, I despair of accomplishing any great
+amount of good by simple appeals to the conscience and right principle.
+There are a few who will listen to conscience and a sense of right, but
+there are unhappily only a few. I suppose, though you have good
+Christians here, you have many who will put their consciences in their
+pockets. [Hear, hear!] I have known cases of this kind. There was a
+young lady in the State of Virginia who was left an orphan, and she had
+no property except four negro slaves, who were of great commercial
+value. She felt that slavery was wrong, and she could not hold them. She
+gave them their freedom--[cheers]--and supported herself by teaching a
+small school. [Cheers.] Now, notwithstanding all the unfavorable things
+we see--notwithstanding the dark cloud that hangs over the country,
+there are hopeful indications that God has not forgotten us, and that he
+will carry on this work till it is accomplished. [Hear!] But it will be
+a long while first, I fear; and we must pray, and labor, and persevere;
+for he that perseveres to the end, and he only, receives the crown. Now,
+there are very few in the United States who undertake to defend slavery,
+and say it is right. But the great majority, even of professors of
+religion, unite to shield it from aggression. 'It is the law of the
+land,' they say, 'and we must submit to it.' It seems a strange doctrine
+to come from the lips of the descendants of the Puritans, those who
+resisted the law of the land because those laws were against their
+conscience, and finally went over to that new world, in order that they
+might enjoy the rights of conscience. How would it have been with the
+primitive church if this doctrine had prevailed? There never would have
+been any Christian church, for that was against the laws of the land. In
+regard to the distribution of the Bible, in many states the laws
+prohibit the teaching of slaves, and the distribution of the Bible is
+not allowed among them. The American Bible Society does not itself take
+the responsibility of this. It leaves the whole matter to the local
+societies in the several states, and it is the local societies that take
+the responsibility. Well, why should we obey the law of the land in
+South Carolina on this subject, and disobey the law of the land in
+Italy? But our missionary societies and Bible societies send Bibles to
+other parts of the world, and never ask if it is contrary to the law of
+these lands, and if it is, they push it all the more zealously. They
+send Bibles to Italy and Spain, and yet the Bible is prohibited by those
+governments. The American Tract Society and the American Sunday School
+Union allow none of their issues to utter a syllable against slavery.
+They expunge even from their European books every passage of this kind,
+and excuse themselves by the law and the public sentiment. So are the
+people taught. There has been a great deal said on the subject of
+influence from abroad; but those who talk in that way interfered with
+the persecution of the Madiai, and remonstrated with the Tuscan
+government. We have had large meetings on the subject in New York, and
+those who refuse the Bible to the slave took part in that meeting, and
+did not seem to think there was any inconsistency in their conduct.
+
+"The Christian church knows no distinction of nations. In that church
+there is neither Greek nor Jew, Barbarian, Scythian, bond nor free, but
+all are one in Christ; and whatever affects one part of the body affects
+the other, and the whole Christian church every where is bound to help,
+and encourage, and rebuke, as the case may require. The Christian church
+is every where bound to its corresponding branch in every other country;
+and thus you have, not only a right, but it is your duty, to consider
+the case of the American slave with just the same interest with which
+you consider the cause of the native Hindoo, when you send out your
+missionaries there, or with which you consider Madagascar; and to
+express yourselves in a Christian spirit, and in a Christian way
+continually, till you see that your admonitions have had a suitable
+influence. I do not doubt what you say, that you will receive with great
+pleasure men who come from the United States to promote the cause of
+temperance, and you may have the opportunity of showing your sincerity
+before long; and the manner in which you receive them will have a very
+important bearing on the subject of slavery. [Cheers.] I have not the
+least doubt you will hail with joy those who will come across the
+Atlantic to advance and promote still more earnestly those noble
+institutions, the ragged schools and the ragged churches. [Cheers.] The
+men who want to do good at home are the men who do good abroad; and the
+same spirit of Christian liberality that leads you to feel for the
+American slave will lead you to care for your own poor, and those in
+adverse circumstances in your own land, I would ask, Is it possible,
+then, that admonition and reproof given in a Christian spirit, and by a
+Christian heart, can fail to produce a right influence on a Christian
+spirit and a Christian heart? I think the thing is utterly impossible;
+and that if such admonitions as are contained in the resolution,
+conceived in such a spirit, and so kindly expressed--if they are not
+received in a Christian spirit, it is because the Christian spirit has
+unhappily fled. I can answer for myself, at least, and many of my
+brethren, that it will be so; and, so far from desiring you to withhold
+your expressions on account of any bad feeling that they might excite, I
+wish you to reiterate them, and reiterate them in the same spirit in
+which they are given in this resolution; for I believe that these
+expressions of impatience and petulance represent the feelings of very
+few. Who is it that always speaks first? The angry man, and it comes out
+at once; but the wise man keeps it in till afterwards; and it will not
+be long before you will find, that whatever you say in a Christian
+spirit will be responded to on the other side of the water. Now, I
+believe our churches have neglected their duty on this subject, and are
+still neglecting it. Many do not seem to know what their duty is. Yet I
+believe them to be good, conscientious men, and men who will do their
+duty when they know what it is. Take, for example, the American Board of
+Foreign Missions. There are not better men, or more conscientious men,
+on the face of the earth, or men more sincerely desirous of doing their
+duty; yet, in some things, I believe they are mistaken. I think it would
+be better to throw over the very few churches connected with the Board
+which are slaveholding, than to endeavor to sustain them, and to have
+all this pressure of responsibility still upon them. But yet they are
+pursuing the course which they conscientiously think to be right.
+Christian admonition will not be lost upon them.[H] I will say the same
+of the American Home Missionary Society. They have little to do with
+slavery, as I have already remarked. Many think they ought not to say
+any thing upon the subject, because they cannot do so without weakening
+their influence. But then this question comes: If good men do not speak,
+who will?--[Hear, hear!]--and, as our Savior said in regard to the
+children that shouted, Hosannah, 'If these should hold their peace, the
+stones would immediately cry out.' It is in consequence of their silence
+that stones have begun to cry out, and they rebuke the silence and
+apathy of good men; and this is made an argument against religion, which
+has had effect with unthinking people; so I think it absolutely
+necessary that men in the church, on that very ground, should speak out
+their mind on this great subject at whatever risk--[cheers]--and they
+must take the consequences. In due time God will prosper the right, and
+in due time the fetters will fall from every slave, and the black man
+will have the same privileges as the white. [Applause.]"
+
+
+ROYAL HIGHLAND SCHOOL SOCIETY DINNER, AT THE FREEMASON'S TAVERN,
+LONDON--MAY 14.
+
+The Chairman, Sir ARCHIBALD ALISON, gave "The health of her Grace the
+Duchess of Sutherland, and the noble patronesses of the Society," which
+was received with great applause. It was extremely gratifying, he said,
+to find a lady, belonging to one of the most ancient and noblest
+families of the kingdom, displaying so great an interest in their
+institution. [Cheers.] Not the least of their obligations to her Grace
+was the opportunity she had given them to offer their respects to a
+lady, remarkable alike for her genius and her philanthropy, who had come
+from across the Atlantic, and who, by her philanthropic exertions in the
+cause of negro emancipation, had enlisted the feelings and called forth
+the sympathies of thousands and tens of thousands on both sides of the
+ocean. [Tremendous cheering.] She had shown that the genius, and
+talents, and energies, which such a cause inspired, had created a
+species of freemasonry throughout the world; it had set aside
+nationalities, and bound two nations together which the broad Atlantic
+could not sever; and created a union of sentiment and purpose which he
+trusted would continue till the great work of negro emancipation had
+been finally accomplished. [Cheers.]
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE responded to the allusion which had been made to Mrs.
+Stowe, and was greeted with hearty applause. He said he had read in his
+childhood the writings of Sir Walter Scott, and thus became intensely
+interested in all that pertained to Scotland. [Cheers.] He had read,
+more recently, his Life of Napoleon, and also Sir Archibald Alison's
+History of Europe. [Protracted cheers.] But he certainly never expected
+to be called upon to address such an assembly as that, and under such
+circumstances. Nothing could exceed the astonishment which was felt by
+himself and Mrs. Stowe at the cordiality of their reception in every
+part of Great Britain, from persons of every rank in life. [Cheers.]
+Every body seemed to have read her book. [Hear, hear! and loud cheers.]
+Everyone seemed to have been deeply interested, [cheers,] and disposed
+to return a full-hearted homage to the writer. But all she claimed
+credit for was truth, and honesty, and earnestness of purpose. He had
+only to add that he cordially thanked the Royal Highland School Society
+for the kindness which induced them to invite him and Mrs. Stowe to be
+present that evening. [Cheers.] The work in which the society was
+engaged was one that they both held dear, and in which they felt the
+deepest interest, inasmuch as that object was to promote the education
+of youth among those whose poverty rendered them unable to provide the
+means of education for themselves. [Hear, hear!] In such works as that
+they had themselves for most of their lives been diligently engaged.
+[Cheers.]
+
+
+ANTISLAVERY SOCIETY, EXETER HALL--MAY 16.
+
+THE EARL OF SHAFTESBURY, who, on coming forward to open the proceedings,
+was received with much applause, spoke as follows: "We are assembled
+here this night to protest, with the utmost intensity, and with all the
+force which language can command, against the greatest wrong that the
+wickedness of man ever perpetrated upon his fellow-man--[loud cheers]--a
+wrong which, great in all ages--great in heathen times--great in all
+countries--great even under heathen sentiments--is indescribably
+monstrous in Christian days, and exercised as it is, not unfrequently,
+over Christian people. [Hear!] It is surely remarkable, and exceedingly
+disgraceful to a century and a generation so boastful of its progress,
+and of the institution of so many Bible societies, with so many
+professions and preachments of Christianity--with so many declarations
+of the spiritual value of man before God--after so many declarations of
+this equality of every man in the sight of his fellow-man--that we
+should be assembled here this evening to protest against the conduct of
+a mighty and a Protestant people, who, in the spirit of the Romish
+Babylon, which they had renounced, resort to her most abominable
+practices--making merchandise of the temples of God, and trafficking in
+the bodies and souls of men. [Cheers.] We are not here to proclaim and
+maintain our own immaculate purity. We are not here to stand forward and
+say, 'I am holier than thou.' We have confessed, and that openly, and
+freely, and unreservedly, our share, our heavy share, in by-gone days,
+of vast wickedness; we have, we declare it again, and we had our deep
+remorse. We sympathize with the preponderating bulk of the American
+people; we acknowledge and we feel the difficulties which beset them; we
+rejoice and we believe in their good intentions; but we have no
+patience--I at least have none--with those professed leaders, be they
+political or be they clerical, who mislead the people--with those who,
+blasphemously resting slavery on the Holy Scriptures, desecrate their
+pulpits by the promulgation of doctrines better suited to the synagogue
+of Satan--[cheers]--nor with that gentleman who, the greatest officer of
+the greatest republic in the whole world, in pronouncing an inaugural
+address to the assembled multitudes, maintains the institution of
+slavery; and--will you believe it?--invokes the Almighty God to maintain
+those rights, and thus sanction the violation of his own laws!--[Cries
+of 'Shame!'] This is, indeed, a dismal prospect for those who tremble at
+human power; but we have this consolation: Is it not said that, 'When
+the enemy shall come in like a flood, the Spirit of the Lord shall lift
+up a standard against him?' [Hear, hear!] He has done so now, and a most
+wonderful and almost inspired protector has arisen for the suffering of
+this much injured race. [Loud cheers.] Feeble as her sex, but
+irresistible as virtue and as truth, she will prove to her adversary,
+and to ours, that such boasting shall not be for his honor, 'for the
+Lord will sell Sisera into the hands of a woman.' [Hear, hear! and loud
+cheers.] Now, I ask you this: Is there one of you who believes that the
+statements of that marvellous book to which we have alluded present an
+exaggerated picture?--[Tremendous cries of 'No, no.'] Do they not know,
+say what they will, that the truth is not fully stated? [Hear, hear!]
+The reality is worse than the fiction. [Hear, hear!] But, apart from
+this, there is our solemn declaration that the vileness of the principle
+is at once exhibited in the mere notion of slavery, and the atrocities
+of it are the natural and almost inevitable consequences of the
+profession and exercise of absolute and irresponsible power. [Hear,
+hear!] But do you doubt the fact? Look to the document. I will quote to
+you from this book. I have never read any thing more strikingly
+illustrative or condemnatory of the system we are here to denounce. Here
+is the judgment pronounced by one of the judges in North Carolina. It is
+impossible to read this judgment, however terrible the conclusion,
+without feeling convinced that the man who pronounced it was a man of a
+great mind, and, in spite of the law he was bound to administer, a man
+of a great heart. [Hear, hear!] Hear what he says. The case was this: It
+was a 'case of appeal,' in which the defendant had hired a slave woman
+for a year. During this time she committed some slight offence, for
+which the defendant undertook to chastise her. After doing so he shot at
+her as she was running away. The question then arose, was he justified
+in using that amount of coercion? and whether the privilege of shooting
+was not confined to the actual proprietor? The case was argued at some
+length, and the court, in pronouncing judgment, began by deploring that
+any judge should ever be called upon to decide such a case, but he had
+to administer the law, and not to make it. The judge said, 'With
+whatever reluctance, therefore, the court is bound to express the
+opinion, that the dominion over a slave in Carolina has not, as it has
+been argued, any analogy with the authority of a tutor over a pupil, of
+a master over an apprentice, or of a parent over a child. The court does
+not recognize these applications. There is no likeness between them.
+They are in opposition to each other, and there is an impassable gulf
+between them. The difference is that which exists between freedom and
+slavery--[Hear, hear!]--and a greater difference cannot be imagined. In
+the one case, the end in view is the happiness of the youth, born to
+equal rights with the tutor, whose duty it is to train the young to
+usefulness by moral and intellectual instruction. If they will not
+suffice, a moderate chastisement maybe administered. But with slavery it
+is far otherwise.' Mark these words, for they contain the whole thing.
+But with slavery it is far otherwise. The end is the profit of the
+master, and the poor object is one doomed, in his own person, and in his
+posterity, to live without knowledge, and without capacity to attain any
+thing which he may call his own. He has only to labor, that another may
+reap the fruits.' [Hear, hear!] Mark! this is from the sacred bench of
+justice, pronounced by one of the first intellects in America! 'There is
+nothing else which can operate to produce the effect; the power of the
+master must be absolute, to render the submission of the slave perfect.
+[Hear, hear!] It is inherent in the relation of master and slave;' and
+then he adds those never-to-be-forgotten words, 'We cannot allow the
+right of the master to come under discussion in the courts of justice.
+The slave must be made sensible that there is no appeal from his master,
+and that his master's power is in no instance usurped; that these rights
+are conferred by the laws of man, at least, if not by the law of God.'
+[Loud cries of 'Shame, shame!'] This is the mode in which we are to
+regard these two classes of beings, both created by the same God, and
+both redeemed by the same Savior as ourselves, and destined to the same
+immortality! The judgment, on appeal, was reversed; but, God be praised;
+there is another appeal, and that appeal we make to the highest of all
+imaginable courts, where God is the judge, where mercy is the advocate,
+and where unerring truth will pronounce the decision![Protracted
+cheering.] There are some who are pleased to tell us that there is an
+inferiority in the race! That is untrue. [Cheers.] But we are not here
+to inquire whether our black brethren will become Shakspeares or
+Herschels. [Hear, hear!] I ask, are they immortal beings? [Great
+applause.] Do our adversaries, say no? I ask them, then, to show me one
+word in the handwriting of God which has thus levelled them with the
+brute beasts. [Hear, hear!] Let us bear in mind those words of our
+blessed Savior--'Whosoever shall offend one of these little ones who
+believe in me, it were better that a millstone were hanged about his
+neck, and that he were cast into the depths of the sea.' [Loud cheers.]
+Now, then, what is our duty? Is it to stand still? Yes! when we receive
+the command from the same authority that said to the sun, Stand over
+Gibeon! [Loud cheers.] Then, and not till then, will we stand still.
+[Renewed cheers.] Are we to listen to the craven and miserable talk
+about 'doing more harm than good'? [Hear, hear!] This was an argument
+which would have checked every noble enterprise which has been
+undertaken since the world began. It would have strangled Wilberforce,
+and checked the very Exodus itself from the house of bondage in Egypt.
+[Hear, hear!] Out on all such craven talk! [Cheers.] Slavery is a
+mystery, and so is all sin, and we must fight against it; and, by the
+blessing of God, we will. [Loud cheers.] We must pray to Almighty God,
+that we and our American brethren--who seem now to be the sole
+depositories of the Protestant truth, and of civil and religious
+liberty, may be as one. [Cheers.] We are feeble, if hostile; but, if
+united, we are the arbiters of the world. [Cheers.] Let us join together
+for the temporal and spiritual good of our race."
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE then came forward, and was received with unbounded
+demonstrations of applause. When the cheering had subsided, he said "he
+felt utterly exhausted by the heat and excitement of the meeting, and
+should therefore be glad to be excused from saying a single word;
+however, he would utter a few thoughts. The following was the resolution
+which he had to submit to the meeting: 'That with a view to the
+correction of public sentiment on this subject in slaveholding
+communities, it is of the first importance that those who are earnest in
+condemnation of slavery should observe consistency; and, therefore, that
+it is their duty to encourage the development of the natural resources
+of countries where slavery does not exist, and the soil of which is
+adapted to the growth of products--especially of cotton--now partially
+or chiefly raised by slave labor; and though the extinction of slavery
+is less to be expected from a diminished demand for slave produce than
+from the moral effects of a steadfast abhorrence of slavery itself, and
+from an unwavering and consistent opposition to it, this meeting would
+earnestly recommend, that in all cases where it is practicable, a
+decided preference should be given to the products of free labor, by all
+who enter their protest against slavery, so that at least they
+themselves may be clear of any participation in the guilt of the system,
+and be thus morally strengthened in their condemnation of it.' At the
+close of the revolutionary war, all the states of America were
+slaveholding states. In Massachusetts, some benevolent white man caused
+a slave to try an action for wages in a court of justice. He succeeded,
+and the consequence was, that slavery fell in Massachusetts. It was then
+universally acknowledged that slavery was a sin and shame, and ought to
+be abolished, and it was expected that it would be soon abolished in
+every state of the Union. Mr. Jefferson, Mr. Madison, and Benjamin
+Franklin would not allow the word 'slave' to occur in the constitution,
+and Mr. Edwards, from the pulpit, clearly and broadly denounced slavery.
+And when he (Professor Stowe) was a boy, in Massachusetts the negro
+children were admitted to the same schools with the whites. Although
+there was some prejudice of color then, yet it was not so strong as at
+present. In 1818, the General Assembly of the Presbyterian church in the
+United States passed, resolutions against slavery far stronger than
+those passed at the meeting this evening, and every man, north and
+south, voted for them. What had caused the change? It was the
+profitableness of the cotton trade. It was that which had spread the
+chains of slavery over the Union, and silenced the church upon the
+subject. He had been asked, what right had Great Britain to interfere?
+Why, Great Britain took four fifths of the cotton of America, and
+therefore sustained four fifths of the slavery. That gave them a right
+to interfere. [Hear, hear!] He admitted that our participation in the
+guilt was not direct, but without the cotton, trade of Great Britain
+slavery would have been abolished long ago, for the American
+manufacturers consumed but one fifth of all the cotton grown in the
+country. The conscience of the cotton growers was talked of; but had the
+cotton consumer no conscience? [Cheers.] It seemed to him that the
+British public had more direct access to the consumer than to the grower
+of cotton." Professor Stowe then read an extract from a paper published
+in Charleston, South Carolina, showing the influence of the American
+cotton trade on the slavery question. "The price of cotton regulated the
+price of slaves, who were now worth an average of two hundred pounds. A
+cotton plantation required in some cases two hundred, and in others four
+hundred slaves. This would give an idea of the capital needed. With free
+labor there was none of this outlay--there was none of those losses by
+the cholera, and the 'underground railroad,' to which the slave owners
+were subjected. [Hear, hear!] The Chinese had come over in large
+numbers, and could be hired for small wages, on which they managed to
+live well in their way. If people would encourage free-grown cotton,
+that would be the strongest appeal they could make to the slaveholder.
+There were three ways of abolishing slavery. First, by a bloody
+revolution, which few would approve. [Hear, hear!] Secondly, by
+persuading slaveholders of the wrong they commit; but this would have
+little effect so long as they bought their cotton. [Hear, hear!] And the
+third and most feasible way was, by making slave labor unprofitable, as
+compared with free labor. [Hear!] When the Chinese first began to
+emigrate to California, it was predicted that slavery would be 'run out'
+that way. He hoped it might be so. [Cheers.] The reverend gentleman then
+reverted to his previous visit to this country, seventeen years ago, and
+described the rapid strides which had been made in the work of
+education--especially the education of the poor--in the interval. It was
+most gratifying to him, and more easily seen by him than it would be by
+us, with whom the change had been gradual. He had been told in America
+that the English abolitionists were prompted by jealousy of America, but
+he had found that to be false. The Christian feeling which had dictated
+efforts on behalf of ragged schools and factory children, and the
+welfare of the poor and distressed of every kind, had caused the same
+Christian hearts to throb for the American slave. It was that Christian
+philanthropy which received all men as brethren--children of the same
+father, and therefore he had great hopes of success. [Cheers.]"
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+My remarks on the cotton business of Britain were made with entire
+sincerity, and a single-hearted desire to promote the antislavery cause.
+They are sentiments which I had long entertained, and which I had taken
+every opportunity to express with the utmost freedom from the time of my
+first landing in Liverpool, the great cotton mart of England, and where,
+if any where, they might be supposed capable of giving offence; yet no
+exception was taken to them, so far as I know, till delivered in Exeter
+Hall. There they were heard by some with surprise, and by others with
+extreme displeasure. I was even called _proslavery_, and ranked with
+Mrs. Julia Tyler, for frankly speaking the truth, under circumstances of
+great temptation to ignore it.
+
+Still I have the satisfaction of knowing that both my views and my
+motives were rightly understood and properly appreciated by
+large-hearted and clear-headed philanthropists, like the Earl of
+Shaftesbury and Joseph Sturge, and very fairly represented and commented
+upon by such religious and secular papers as the Christian Times, the
+British Banner, the London Daily News and Chronicle; and even the
+_thundering political_ Times seemed disposed, in a half-sarcastic way,
+to admit that I was more than half right.
+
+But it is most satisfactory of all to know that the best of the British
+abolitionists are now acting, promptly and efficiently, in accordance
+with those views, and are determined to develop the resources of the
+British empire for the production of cotton by free labor. The thing is
+practicable, and not of very difficult accomplishment. It is furthermore
+absolutely essential to the success of the antislavery cause; for now
+the great practical leading argument for slavery is, _Without slavery
+you can have no cotton, and cotton you must and will have_. The latest
+work that I have read in defence of slavery (Uncle Tom in Paris,
+Baltimore, 1854) says, (pp. 56-7,) "_Of the cotton which supplies the
+wants of the civilized world, the south produces 86 per cent.; and
+without slave labor experience has shown that the cotton plant cannot be
+cultivated_."
+
+How the matter is viewed by sagacious and practical minds in Britain, is
+clear from the following sentences, taken from the National Era:--
+
+"COTTON is KING.--Charles Dickens, in a late number of his Household
+Words, after enumerating the striking facts of cotton, says,--
+
+"'Let any social or physical convulsion visit the United States, and
+England would feel the shock from Land's End to John o'Groat's. The
+lives of nearly two millions of our countrymen are dependent upon the
+cotton crops of America; their destiny may be said, without any sort of
+hyperbole, to hang upon a thread.
+
+"'Should any dire calamity befall the land of cotton, a thousand of our
+merchant ships would rot idly in dock; ten thousand mills must stop
+their busy looms, and two million mouths would starve for lack of food
+to feed them.'
+
+"How many non-slaveholders elsewhere are thus interested in the products
+of slaves? Is it not worthy the attention of genuine philanthropists to
+inquire whether cotton cannot be profitably cultivated by free labor?"
+
+
+SOIRÉE AT WILLIS'S ROOMS--MAY 25.
+
+MR. JOSEPH STURGE took the chair, announcing that he did so in the
+absence of the Earl of Shaftesbury, who was prevented from attending.
+
+It was announced that letters had been received from the Duke of
+Newcastle and the Earls of Carlisle and Shaftesbury, expressing their
+sympathy with the object of the meeting, and their regret at being
+unable to attend.
+
+The Secretary, SAMUEL BOWLEY, Esq., of Gloucester, then read the
+address, which was as follows:--
+
+"MADAM: It is with feelings of the deepest interest that the committee
+of the British and Foreign Antislavery Society, on behalf of themselves
+and of the society they represent, welcome the gifted authoress of Uncle
+Tom's Cabin to the shores of Great Britain.
+
+"As humble laborers in the cause of negro emancipation, we hail, with
+emotions more easily imagined than described, the appearance of that
+remarkable work, which has awakened a world-wide sympathy on behalf of
+the suffering negro, and called forth a burst of honest indignation
+against the atrocious system of slavery, which, we trust, under the
+divine blessing, will, at no distant period, accomplish its entire
+abolition. We are not insensible to those extraordinary merits of Uncle
+Tom's Cabin, as a merely literary production, which have procured for
+its talented authoress such universal commendation and enthusiastic
+applause; but we feel it to be our duty to refer rather to the Christian
+principles and earnest piety which pervade its interesting pages, and to
+express our warmest desire, we trust we may say heartfelt prayer, that
+He who bestowed upon you the power and the grace to write such a work
+may preserve and bless you amid all your honours, and enable you, under
+a grateful and humble sense of his abundant goodness, to give him all
+the glory.
+
+"We rejoice to find that the great principles upon which our society is
+based are so fully and so cordially recognized by yourself and your
+beloved husband and brother--First, that personal slavery, in all its
+varied forms, is a direct violation of the blessed, precepts of the
+gospel, and therefore a sin in the sight of God; and secondly, that
+every victim of this unjust and sinful system is entitled to immediate
+and unconditional freedom. For, however we might acquiesce in the course
+of a nation which, under a sense of its participation in the guilt of
+slavery, should share the pecuniary loss, if such there were, of its
+immediate abolition, yet we repudiate the right to demand compensation
+for human flesh and blood, as (to employ the emphatic words of Lord
+Brougham) we repudiate and abhor 'the wild and guilty fantasy that man
+can hold property in man.' And we do not hesitate to express our
+conviction, strengthened by the experience of emancipation in our own
+colonies, that on the mere ground of social or political expediency, the
+immediate termination of slavery would be far less dangerous and far
+less injurious than, any system of compromise, or any attempt at gradual
+emancipation.
+
+"Let it be borne in mind, however,--and we record it with peculiar
+interest on the present occasion,--that it was the pen of a woman that
+first publicly enunciated the imperative duty of immediate emancipation.
+Amid vituperation and ridicule, and, far worse, the cold rebuke of
+Christian friends, Mrs. Elizabeth Heyrick boldly sent forth the
+thrilling tract which taught the abolitionists of Great Britain this
+lesson of justice and truth; and we honor her memory for her deeds.
+Again we are indebted to the pen of a woman for pleading yet more
+powerfully the cause of justice to the slave; and again we have to
+admire and honor the Christian heroism which has enabled you, dear
+madam, to brave the storm of public opinion, and to bear the frowns of
+the church in your own land, while you boldly sent forth your matchless
+volume to teach more widely and more attractively the same righteous
+lesson.
+
+"We desire to feel grateful for the measure of success that has crowned
+the advocacy of these sound antislavery principles in our own country;
+but we cannot but feel, that as regards the continuance of slavery in
+America, we have cause for humiliation and shame in the existence of the
+melancholy fact that a large proportion of the fruits of the bitter toil
+and suffering of the slaves in the western world are used to minister to
+the comfort and the luxury of our own population. When this anomaly of a
+country's putting down slavery by law on the one hand, and supporting it
+by its trade and commerce on the other, will be removed, it is not for
+us to predict; but we are conscious that our position is such as should
+at least dissipate every sentiment of self-complacency, and make us
+feel, both nationally and individually, how deep a responsibility still
+rests upon us to wash our own hands of this iniquity, and to seek by
+every legitimate means in our power to rid the world of this fearful
+institution.
+
+"True Christian philanthropy knows no geographical limits, no
+distinctions of race or color; but wherever it sees its fellow-man the
+victim of suffering and oppression, it seeks to alleviate his sorrows,
+or drops a tear of sympathy over the afflictions which it has not the
+power to remove. We cannot but believe that these enlarged and generous
+sympathies will be aroused and strengthened in the hearts of thousands
+and tens of thousands of all classes who have wept over the touching
+pages of Uncle Tom's Cabin. We have marked the rapid progress of its
+circulation from circle to circle, and from country to country, with
+feelings of thrilling interest; for we trust, by the divine blessing
+upon the softening influence and Christian sentiments it breathes, it
+will be made the harbinger of a better and brighter day for the
+happiness and the harmony of the human family. The facilities for
+international intercourse which we now possess, while they rapidly tend
+to remove those absurd jealousies which have so long existed between the
+nations of the earth, are daily increasing the power of public opinion
+in the world at large, which is so well described by one of our leading
+statesmen in these forcible words: 'It is quite true, it may be said,
+what are opinions against armies? Opinions, if they are founded in truth
+and justice, will in the end prevail against the bayonets of infantry,
+the fire of artillery, and the charges of cavalry.' Responding most
+cordially to these sentiments, we rejoice with thanksgiving to God that
+you, whom we now greet and welcome as our dear and honored friend, have
+been enabled to exemplify their beauty and their truth; for it is our
+firm conviction that the united powers of Europe, with all their
+military array, could not accomplish what you have done, through the
+medium of public opinion, for the overthrow of American slavery.
+
+"The glittering steel of the warrior, though steeped in the tyrant's
+blood, would be weak when compared with a woman's pen dipped in the milk
+of human kindness, and softened by the balm of Christian love. The words
+that have drawn a tear from the eye of the noble, and moistened the
+dusky cheek of the hardest sons of toil, shall sink into the heart and
+weaken the grasp of the slaveholder, and crimson with a blush of shame
+many an American citizen who has hitherto defended or countenanced by
+his silence this bitter reproach on the character and constitution of
+his country.
+
+"To the tender mercies of Him who died to save their immortal souls we
+commend the downcast slaves for freedom and protection, and, in the
+heart-cheering belief that you have been raised up as an honored
+instrument in God's hand to hasten the glorious work of their
+emancipation, we crave that his blessing, as well as the blessing of him
+that is ready to perish, may abundantly rest upon you and yours. With
+sentiments of the highest esteem and respect, dear madam, we
+affectionately subscribe ourselves your friends and fellow-laborers."
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE was received with prolonged cheering. He said, "Besides
+the right which I have, owing to the relationship subsisting between us,
+to answer for the lady whom you have so honored, I may claim a still
+greater right in my sympathy for her efforts. [Hear!] We are perfectly
+agreed in every point with regard to the nature of slavery, and the best
+means of getting rid of it. I have been frequently called on to address
+public meetings since I have been on these shores, and though under
+circumstances of great disadvantage, and generally with little time, if
+any, for preparation, still the very great kindness which has been
+manifested to Mrs. Stowe and to myself, and to our country, afflicted as
+it is with this great evil, has enabled me to bear a burden which
+otherwise I should have found insupportable. But of all the addresses we
+have received, kind and considerate as they have all been, I doubt
+whether one has so completely expressed the feelings and sympathies of
+our own hearts as the one we have just heard. It is precisely the
+expressions of our own thoughts and feelings on the whole subject of
+slavery. As this is probably the last time I shall have an opportunity
+of addressing an audience in England, I wish briefly to give you an
+outline of our views as to the best means of dealing with that terrible
+subject of slavery, for in our country it is really terrible in its
+power and influence. Were it not that Providence seems to be lifting a
+light in the distance, I should be almost in despair. There is now a
+system of causes at work which Providence designs should continue to
+work, until that great curse is removed from the face of the earth. I
+believe that in dealing with the subject of slavery, and the best means
+of removing it, the first thing is to show the utter wrongfulness of the
+whole system. The great moral ground is the chief and primary ground,
+and the one on which we should always, and under all circumstances,
+insist. With regard to the work which has created so much excitement,
+the great excellence of it morally is, that it holds up fully and
+emphatically the extreme wrongfulness of the system, while at the same
+time showing an entire Christian and forgiving spirit towards those
+involved in it; and it is these two characteristics which, in my
+opinion, have given it its great power. Till I read that book, I had
+never seen any extensive work that satisfied me on those points. It does
+show, in the most striking manner, the horrible wrongfulness of the
+system, and, at the same time, it displays no bitterness, no unfairness,
+no unkindness, to those involved in it. It is that which gives the work
+the greater power, for where there is unfairness, those assailed take
+refuge behind it; while here they have no such refuge. We should always
+aim, in assailing the system of slavery, to awaken the consciences of
+those involved in it; for among slaveholders there are all kinds of
+moral development, as among every other class of people in the world.
+There are men of tender conscience, as well as men of blunted
+conscience; men with moral sense, and men with no moral sense whatever;
+some who have come into the system involuntarily, born in it, and others
+who have come into it voluntarily. There is a moral nature in every man,
+more or less developed; and according as it is developed we can, by
+showing the wrong of a thing, bring one to abhor it. We have the
+testimony of Christian clergymen in slave holding states, that the
+greater portion of the Christian people there, and even many
+slaveholders, believe the system is wrong; and it is only a matter of
+time, a question of delay, as to when they shall perform their whole
+duty, and bring it to an end.[I] One would believe that when they saw a
+thing to be wrong, they would at once do right; but prejudice, habit,
+interest, education, and a variety of influences check their aspirations
+to what is right; but let us keep on pressing it upon their consciences,
+and I believe their consciences will at length respond. Public sentiment
+is more powerful than force, and it may be excited in many ways.
+Conversation, the press, the platform, and the pulpit may all be used to
+awaken the feeling of the people, and bring it to bear on this question.
+I refer especially to the pulpit; for, if the church and the ministry
+are silent, who is to speak for the dumb and the oppressed? The thing
+that has borne on my mind with the most melancholy weight, and caused me
+most sorrow, is the apparent apathy, the comparative silence, of the
+church on this subject for the last twenty or five and twenty years in
+the United States. Previous to that period it did speak, and with words
+of power; but, unfortunately, it has not followed out those words by
+acts. The influence of the system has come upon it, and brought it, for
+a long time, almost to entire silence; but I hope we are beginning to
+speak again. We hear voices here and there which will excite other
+voices, and I trust before long they will bring all to speak the same
+thing on this subject, so that the conscience of the whole nation may be
+aroused. There is another method of dealing with the subject, which is
+alluded to in the address, and also in the resolution of the society, at
+Exeter Hall. It is the third resolution proposed at that meeting, and I
+will read it, and make some comments as I proceed. It begins, 'That,
+with a view to the correction of public sentiment on this subject in
+slaveholding communities, it is of the first importance that those who
+are earnest in condemnation of slavery should observe consistency, and,
+therefore, that it is their duty to encourage the development of the
+natural resources of countries where slavery does not exist, and the
+soil of which is adapted to the growth of products, especially cotton,
+now partially or chiefly raised by slave labor.' Now, I concur with this
+most entirely, and would refer you to countries where cotton can be
+grown even in your own dominions--in India, Australia, British Guiana,
+and parts of Africa. But it can be raised by free labor in the United
+States, and indeed it is already raised there by free labor to a
+considerable extent; and, provided the plan were more encouraged, it
+could be raised more abundantly. The resolution goes on to say, 'And
+though the extinction of slavery is less to be expected from a
+diminished demand for slave produce than from the moral effects of a
+steadfast abhorrence of slavery, and from an unwavering and consistent
+opposition to it,' &c. Now, my own feelings on that subject are not
+quite so hopeless as here expressed, and it seems to me that you are not
+aware of the extent to which free labor may come into competition with
+slave labor. I know several instances, in the most slaveholding states,
+in which slave labor has been displaced, and free labor substituted in
+its stead. The weakness of slavery consists in the expense of the
+slaves, the great capital to be invested in their purchase before any
+work can be performed, and the constant danger of loss by death or
+escape. When the Chinese emigrants from the eastern portion of their
+empire came to the North-western States, their labor was found much
+cheaper and better than that of slaves. I therefore hope there may be a
+direct influence from this source, as well as the indirect influence
+contemplated by the resolution. At all events, it is an encouragement to
+those who wish the extinction of slavery to keep their eyes open, and
+assist the process by all the means in their power. The resolution
+proceeds: 'This meeting would earnestly recommend, in all cases where it
+is practicable, that a decided preference should be given to the
+products of free labor by all who enter their protest against slavery,
+so that at least they themselves may be clear of any participation in
+the guilt of the system, and be thus morally strengthened in their
+condemnation of it.' To that there can be no objection; but still the
+state of society is such that we cannot at once dispense with all the
+products of slave labor. We may, however, be doing what we
+can--examining the ways and methods by which this end may be brought
+about; and, at all events, we need not be deterred from self-denial, nor
+shrink before minor obstacles. If with foresight we participate in the
+encouragement of slave labor, we must hold ourselves guilty, in no
+unimportant sense, of sustaining the system of slavery. I will
+illustrate my argument by a very simple method. Suppose two ships arrive
+laden with silks of the same quality, but one a pirate ship, in which
+the goods have been obtained by robbery, and the other by honest trade.
+The pirate sells his silks twenty per cent. cheaper than the honest
+trader: you go to him, and declaim against his dishonesty; but because
+you can get silks cheaper of him, you buy of him. Would he think you
+sincere in your denunciations of his plundering his fellow-creatures, or
+would you exert any influence on him to make him abandon his dishonest
+practices? I can, however, put another case in which this inconsistency
+might, perhaps, be unavoidable. Suppose we were in famine or great
+necessity, and we wished to obtain provisions for our suffering
+families: suppose, too, there was a certain man with provisions, who, we
+knew, had come by them dishonestly, but we had no other resource than to
+purchase of him. In that case we should be justified in purchasing of
+him, and should not participate in the guilt of the robbery. But still,
+however great our necessity, we are not justified in refusing to examine
+the subject, and in discouraging those who are endeavoring to set the
+thing on the right ground. That is all I wish, and all the resolution
+contemplates; and, happily, I find that that also is what was implied in
+the address. I may mention one other method alluded to in the address,
+and that is prayer to Almighty God. This ought to be, and must be, a
+religious enterprise. It is impossible for any man to contemplate
+slavery as it is without feeling intense indignation; and unless he have
+his heart near to God, and unless he be a man of prayer and devotional
+spirit, bad passions will arise, and to a very great extent neutralize
+his efforts to do good. How do you suppose such a religious feeling has
+been preserved in the book to which the address refers? Because it was
+written amid prayer from the beginning; and it is only by a constant
+exercise of the religious spirit that the good it had effected has been
+accomplished in the way it has. There is one more subject to which I
+would allude, and that is unity among those who desire to emancipate the
+slave. I mean a good understanding and unity of feeling among the
+opponents of slavery. What gives slavery its great strength in the
+United States? There are only about three hundred thousand slaveholders
+in the United States out of the whole twenty-five millions of its
+population, and yet they hold the entire power over the nation. That is
+owing to their unbroken unity on that one matter, however much, and
+however fiercely, they may contend among themselves on others. As soon
+as the subject of slavery comes up, they are of one heart, of one voice,
+and of one mind, while their opponents unhappily differ, and assail each
+other when they ought to be assailing the great enemy alone. Why can
+they not work together, so far as they are agreed, and let those points
+on which they disagree be waived for the time? In the midst of the
+battle let them sink their differences, and settle them after the
+victory is won. I was happy to find at the great meeting of the Peace
+Society that that course has been adopted. They are not all of one mind
+on the details of the question, but they are of one mind on the great
+principle of diffusing peace doctrines among the great nations of
+Europe. I therefore say, let all the friends of the slave work together
+until the great work of his emancipation is accomplished, and then they
+will have time to discuss their differences, though I believe by that
+time they will all think alike. I thank you sincerely for the kindness
+you have expressed towards my country, and for the philanthropy you have
+manifested, and I hope all has been done in such a Christian spirit that
+every Christian feeling on the other side of the Atlantic will be
+compelled to respond to it."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+CONCLUDING NOTE.
+
+Since the preceding addresses were delivered, the aspect of things among
+us has been greatly changed. It is just as was predicted by the
+sagacious Lord Cockburn, at the meeting in Edinburgh, (see page xxvi.)
+The spirit of slavery, stimulated to madness by the indignation of the
+civilized world, in its frenzy bids defiance to God and man, and is
+determined to make itself respected by enlisting into its service the
+entire wealth, and power, and political influence of this great nation.
+Its encroachments are becoming so enormous, and its progress so rapid,
+that it is now a conflict for the freedom of the citizens rather than
+for the emancipation of the slaves. The reckless faithlessness and
+impudent falsehood of our national proslavery legislation, the present
+season, has scarcely a parallel in history, black as history is with all
+kinds of perfidy. If the men who mean to be free do not now arise in
+their strength and shake off the incubus which is strangling and
+crushing them, they deserve to be slaves, and they will be.
+
+C.E.S.
+
+
+
+
+SUNNY MEMORIES
+
+OF
+
+FOREIGN LANDS.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+
+Liverpool, April 11, 1853.
+
+MY DEAR CHILDREN:--
+
+You wish, first of all, to hear of the voyage. Let me assure you, my
+dears, in the very commencement of the matter, that going to sea is not
+at all the thing that we have taken it to be.
+
+You know how often we have longed for a sea voyage, as the fulfilment of
+all our dreams of poetry and romance, the realization of our highest
+conceptions of free, joyous existence.
+
+You remember our ship-launching parties in Maine, when we used to ride
+to the seaside through dark pine forests, lighted up with the gold,
+scarlet, and orange tints of autumn. What exhilaration there was, as
+those beautiful inland bays, one by one, unrolled like silver ribbons
+before us! and how all our sympathies went forth with the grand new ship
+about to be launched! How graceful and noble a thing she looked, as she
+sprang from the shore to the blue waters, like a human soul springing
+from life into immortality! How all our feelings went with her! how we
+longed to be with her, and a part of her--to go with her to India,
+China, or any where, so that we might rise and fall on the bosom of that
+magnificent ocean, and share a part of that glorified existence! That
+ocean! that blue, sparkling, heaving, mysterious ocean, with all the
+signs and wonders of heaven emblazoned on its bosom, and another world
+of mystery hidden beneath its waters! Who would not long to enjoy a
+freer communion, and rejoice in a prospect of days spent in unreserved
+fellowship with its grand and noble nature?
+
+Alas! what a contrast between all this poetry and the real prose fact of
+going to sea! No man, the proverb says, is a hero to his valet de
+chambre. Certainly, no poet, no hero, no inspired prophet, ever lost so
+much on near acquaintance as this same mystic, grandiloquent old Ocean.
+The one step from the sublime to the ridiculous is never taken with such
+alacrity as in a sea voyage.
+
+In the first place, it is a melancholy fact, but not the less true, that
+ship life is not at all fragrant; in short, particularly on a steamer,
+there is a most mournful combination of grease, steam, onions, and
+dinners in general, either past, present, or to come, which, floating
+invisibly in the atmosphere, strongly predisposes to that disgust of
+existence, which, in half an hour after sailing, begins to come upon
+you; that disgust, that strange, mysterious, ineffable sensation which
+steals slowly and inexplicably upon you; which makes every heaving
+billow, every white-capped wave, the ship, the people, the sight, taste,
+sound, and smell of every thing a matter of inexpressible loathing! Man
+cannot utter it.
+
+It is really amusing to watch the gradual progress of this epidemic; to
+see people stepping on board in the highest possible feather, alert,
+airy, nimble, parading the deck, chatty and conversable, on the best
+possible terms with themselves and mankind generally; the treacherous
+ship, meanwhile, undulating and heaving in the most graceful rises and
+pauses imaginable, like some voluptuous waltzer; and then to see one
+after another yielding to the mysterious spell!
+
+Your poet launches forth, "full of sentiment sublime as billows,"
+discoursing magnificently on the color of the waves and the glory of the
+clouds; but gradually he grows white about the mouth, gives sidelong
+looks towards the stairway; at last, with one desperate plunge, he sets,
+to rise no more!
+
+Here sits a stout gentleman, who looks as resolute as an oak log. "These
+things are much the effect of imagination," he tells you; "a little
+self-control and resolution," &c. Ah me! it is delightful, when these
+people, who are always talking about resolution, get caught on
+shipboard. As the backwoodsman said to the Mississippi River, about the
+steamboat, they "get their match." Our stout gentleman sits a quarter of
+an hour, upright as a palm tree, his back squared against the rails,
+pretending to be reading a paper; but a dismal look of disgust is
+settling down about his lips; the old sea and his will are evidently
+having a pitched battle. Ah, ha! there he goes for the stairway; says he
+has left a book in the cabin, but shoots by with a most suspicious
+velocity. You may fancy his finale.
+
+Then, of course, there are young ladies,--charming creatures,--who, in
+about ten minutes, are going to die, and are sure they shall die, and
+don't care if they do; whom anxious papas, or brothers, or lovers
+consign with all speed to those dismal lower regions, where the brisk
+chambermaid, who has been expecting them, seems to think their agonies
+and groans a regular part of the play.
+
+I had come on board thinking, in my simplicity, of a fortnight to be
+spent something like the fortnight on a trip to New Orleans, on one of
+our floating river palaces; that we should sit in our state rooms, read,
+sew, sketch, and chat; and accordingly I laid in a magnificent provision
+in the way of literature and divers matters of fancy work, with which to
+while away the time. Some last, airy touches, in the way of making up
+bows, disposing ribbons, and binding collarets, had been left to these
+long, leisure hours, as matters of amusement.
+
+Let me warn you, if you ever go to sea, you may as well omit all such
+preparations. Don't leave so much as the unlocking of a trunk to be done
+after sailing. In the few precious minutes when the ship stands still,
+before she weighs her anchor, set your house, that is to say, your state
+room, as much in order as if you were going to be hanged; place every
+thing in the most convenient position to be seized without trouble at a
+moment's notice; for be sure that in half an hour after sailing an
+infinite desperation will seize you, in which the grasshopper will be a
+burden. If any thing is in your trunk, it might almost as well be in the
+sea, for any practical probability of your getting to it.
+
+Moreover, let your toilet be eminently simple, for you will find the
+time coming when to button a cuff or arrange a ruff will be a matter of
+absolute despair. You lie disconsolate in your berth, only desiring to
+be let alone to die; and then, if you are told, as you always are, that
+"you mustn't give way," that "you must rouse yourself" and come on deck,
+you will appreciate the value of simple attire. With every thing in your
+berth dizzily swinging backwards and forwards, your bonnet, your cloak,
+your tippet, your gloves, all present so many discouraging
+impossibilities; knotted strings cannot be untied, and modes of
+fastening which seemed curious and convenient, when you had nothing else
+to do but fasten them, now look disgustingly impracticable.
+Nevertheless, your fate for the whole voyage depends upon your rousing
+yourself to get upon deck at first; to give up, then, is to be condemned
+to the Avernus, the Hades of the lower regions, for the rest of the
+voyage.
+
+Ah, _those_ lower regions!--the saloons--every couch and corner filled
+with prostrate, despairing forms, with pale cheeks, long, willowy hair
+and sunken eyes, groaning, sighing, and apostrophizing the Fates, and
+solemnly vowing between every lurch of the ship, that "you'll never
+catch them going to sea again, that's what you won't;" and then the
+bulletins from all the state rooms--"Mrs. A. is sick, and Miss B.
+sicker, and Miss C. almost dead, and Mrs. E., F., and G. declare that
+they shall give up." This threat of "giving up" is a standing resort of
+ladies in distressed circumstances; it is always very impressively
+pronounced, as if the result of earnest purpose; but how it is to be
+carried out practically, how ladies _do_ give up, and what general
+impression is made on creation when they do, has never yet appeared.
+Certainly the sea seems to care very little about the threat, for he
+goes on lurching all hands about just as freely afterwards as before.
+
+There are always some three or four in a hundred who escape all these
+evils. They are not sick, and they seem to be having a good time
+generally, and always meet you with "What a charming run we are having!
+Isn't it delightful?" and so on. If you have a turn for being
+disinterested, you can console your miseries by a view of their
+joyousness. Three or four of our ladies were of this happy order, and it
+was really refreshing to see them.
+
+For my part, I was less fortunate. I could not and would not give up and
+become one of the ghosts below, and so I managed, by keeping on deck and
+trying to act as if nothing was the matter, to lead a very uncertain and
+precarious existence, though with a most awful undertone of emotion,
+which seemed to make quite another thing of creation.
+
+I wonder that people who wanted to break the souls of heroes and martyrs
+never thought of sending them to sea and keeping them a little seasick.
+The dungeons of Olmutz, the leads of Venice, in short, all the naughty,
+wicked places that tyrants ever invented for bringing down the spirits
+of heroes, are nothing to the berth of a ship. Get Lafayette, Kossuth,
+or the noblest of woman, born, prostrate in a swinging, dizzy berth of
+one of these sea coops, called state rooms, and I'll warrant almost any
+compromise might be got out of them.
+
+Where in the world the soul goes to under such influences nobody knows;
+one would really think the sea tipped it all out of a man, just as it
+does the water out of his wash basin. The soul seems to be like one of
+the genii enclosed in a vase, in the Arabian Nights; now, it rises like
+a pillar of cloud, and floats over land and sea, buoyant, many-hued, and
+glorious; again, it goes down, down, subsiding into its copper vase, and
+the cover is clapped on, and there you are. A sea voyage is the best
+device for getting the soul back into its vase that I know of.
+
+But at night!--the beauties of a night on shipboard!--down in your
+berth, with the sea hissing and fizzing, gurgling and booming, within an
+inch of your ear; and then the steward conies along at twelve o'clock
+and puts out your light, and there you are! Jonah in the whale was not
+darker or more dismal. There, in profound ignorance and blindness, you
+lie, and feel yourself rolled upwards, and downwards, and sidewise, and
+all ways, like a cork in a tub of water; much such a sensation as one
+might suppose it to be, were one headed up in a barrel and thrown into
+the sea.
+
+Occasionally a wave comes with a thump against your ear, as if a great
+hammer were knocking on your barrel, to see that all within was safe and
+sound. Then you begin to think of krakens, and sharks, and porpoises,
+and sea serpents, and all the monstrous, slimy, cold, hobgoblin brood,
+who, perhaps, are your next door neighbors; and the old blue-haired
+Ocean whispers through the planks, "Here you are; I've got you. Your
+grand ship is my plaything. I can do what I like with it."
+
+Then you hear every kind of odd noise in the ship--creaking, straining,
+crunching, scraping, pounding, whistling, blowing off steam, each of
+which to your unpractised ear is significant of some impending
+catastrophe; you lie wide awake, listening with all your might, as if
+your watching did any good, till at last sleep overcomes you, and the
+morning light convinces you that nothing very particular has been the
+matter, and that all these frightful noises are only the necessary
+attendants of what is called a good run.
+
+Our voyage out was called "a good run." It was voted, unanimously, to be
+"an extraordinarily good passage," "a pleasant voyage;" yet the ship
+rocked the whole time from side to side with a steady, dizzy, continuous
+motion, like a great cradle. I had a new sympathy for babies, poor
+little things, who are rocked hours at a time without so much as a "by
+your leave" in the case. No wonder there are so many stupid people in
+the world.
+
+There is no place where killing time is so much of a systematic and
+avowed object as in one of these short runs. In a six months' voyage
+people give up to their situation, and make arrangements to live a
+regular life; but the ten days that now divide England and America are
+not long enough for any thing. The great question is how to get them
+off; they are set up, like tenpins, to be bowled at; and happy he whose
+ball prospers. People with strong heads, who can stand the incessant
+swing of the boat, may read or write. Then there is one's berth, a
+never-failing resort, where one may analyze at one's leisure the life
+and emotions of an oyster in the mud. Walking the deck is a means of
+getting off some half hours more. If a ship heaves in sight, or a
+porpoise tumbles up, or, better still, a whale spouts, it makes an
+immense sensation.
+
+Our favorite resort is by the old red smoke pipe of the steamer, which
+rises warm and luminous as a sort of tower of defence. The wind must
+blow an uncommon variety of ways at once when you cannot find a
+sheltered side, as well as a place to warm your feet. In fact, the old
+smoke pipe is the domestic hearth of the ship; there, with the double
+convenience of warmth and fresh air, you can sit by the railing, and,
+looking down, command the prospect of the cook's offices, the cow house,
+pantries, &c.
+
+Our cook has specially interested me--a tall, slender, melancholy man,
+with a watery-blue eye, a patient, dejected visage, like an individual
+weary of the storms and commotions of life, and thoroughly impressed
+with the vanity of human wishes. I sit there hour after hour watching
+him, and it is evident that he performs all his duties in this frame of
+sad composure. Now I see him resignedly stuffing a turkey, anon
+compounding a sauce, or mournfully making little ripples in the crust of
+a tart; but all is done under an evident sense that it is of no use
+trying.
+
+Many complaints have been made of our coffee since we have been on
+board, which, to say the truth, has been as unsettled as most of the
+social questions of our day, and, perhaps, for that reason quite as
+generally unpalatable; but since I have seen our cook, I am quite
+persuaded that the coffee, like other works of great artists, has
+borrowed the hues of its maker's mind. I think I hear him soliloquize
+over it--"To what purpose is coffee?--of what avail tea?--thick or
+clear?--all is passing away--a little egg, or fish skin, more or less,
+what are they?" and so we get melancholy coffee and tea, owing to our
+philosophic cook.
+
+After dinner I watch him as he washes dishes: he hangs up a whole row of
+tin; the ship gives a lurch, and knocks them all down. He looks as if it
+was just what he expected. "Such is life!" he says, as he pursues a
+frisky tin pan in one direction, and arrests the gambols of the ladle in
+another; while the wicked sea, meanwhile, with another lurch, is
+upsetting all his dishwater. I can see how these daily trials, this
+performing of most delicate and complicated gastronomic operations in
+the midst of such unsteady, unsettled circumstances, have gradually
+given this poor soul a despair of living, and brought him into this
+state of philosophic melancholy. Just as Xantippe made a sage of
+Socrates, this whisky, frisky, stormy ship life has made a sage of our
+cook. Meanwhile, not to do him injustice, let it be recorded, that in
+all dishes which require grave conviction and steady perseverance,
+rather than hope and inspiration, he is eminently successful. Our table
+excels in viands of a reflective and solemn character; mighty rounds of
+beef, vast saddles of mutton, and the whole tribe of meats in general,
+come on in a superior style. English plum pudding, a weighty and serious
+performance, is exhibited in first-rate order. The jellies want
+lightness,--but that is to be expected.
+
+I admire the thorough order and system with which every thing is done on
+these ships. One day, when the servants came round, as they do at a
+certain time after dinner, and screwed up the shelf of decanters and
+bottles out of our reach, a German gentleman remarked, "Ah, that's
+always the way on English ships; every thing done at such a time,
+without saying 'by your leave,' If it had been on an American ship now,
+he would have said, 'Gentlemen, are you ready to have this shelf
+raised?'"
+
+No doubt this remark is true and extends to a good many other things;
+but in a ship in the middle of the ocean, when the least confusion or
+irregularity in certain cases might be destruction to all on board, it
+does inspire confidence to see that there is even in the minutest things
+a strong and steady system, that goes on without saying "by your leave."
+Even the rigidness with which lights are all extinguished at twelve
+o'clock, though it is very hard in some cases, still gives you
+confidence in the watchfulness and care with which all on board is
+conducted.
+
+On Sunday there was a service. We went into the cabin, and saw prayer
+books arranged at regular intervals, and soon a procession of the
+sailors neatly dressed filed in and took their places, together with
+such passengers as felt disposed, and the order of morning prayer was
+read. The sailors all looked serious and attentive. I could not but
+think that this feature of the management of her majesty's ships was a
+good one, and worthy of imitation. To be sure, one can say it is only a
+form. Granted; but is not a serious, respectful _form_ of religion
+better than nothing? Besides, I am not willing to think that these
+intelligent-looking sailors could listen to all those devout sentiments
+expressed in the prayers, and the holy truths embodied in the passages
+of Scripture, and not gain something from it. It is bad to have only
+_the form_ of religion, but not so bad as to have neither the form nor
+the fact.
+
+When the ship has been out about eight days, an evident bettering of
+spirits and condition obtains among the passengers. Many of the sick
+ones take heart, and appear again among the walks and ways of men; the
+ladies assemble in little knots, and talk of getting on shore. The more
+knowing ones, who have travelled before, embrace this opportunity to
+show their knowledge of life by telling the new hands all sorts of
+hobgoblin stories about the custom house officers and the difficulties
+of getting landed in England. It is a curious fact, that old travellers
+generally seem to take this particular delight in striking consternation
+into younger ones.
+
+"You'll have all your daguerreotypes taken away," says one lady, who, in
+right of having crossed the ocean nine times, is entitled to speak _ex
+cathedra_ on the subject.
+
+"All our daguerreotypes!" shriek four or five at once. "Pray tell, what
+for?"
+
+"They _will_ do it," says the knowing lady, with an awful nod; "unless
+you hide them, and all your books, they'll burn up--"
+
+"Burn our books!" exclaim the circle. "O, dreadful! What do they do that
+for?"
+
+"They're very particular always to burn up all your books. I knew a lady
+who had a dozen burned," says the wise one.
+
+"Dear me! will they take our _dresses_?" says a young lady, with
+increasing alarm.
+
+"No, but they'll pull every thing out, and tumble them well over, I can
+tell you."
+
+"How horrid!"
+
+An old lady, who has been very sick all the way, is revived by this
+appalling intelligence.
+
+"I hope they won't tumble over my _caps!_" she exclaims.
+
+"Yes, they will have every thing out on deck," says the lady, delighted
+with the increasing sensation. "I tell you you don't know these custom
+house officers."
+
+"It's too bad!" "It's dreadful!" "How horrid!" exclaim all.
+
+"I shall put my best things in my pocket," exclaims one. "They don't
+search our pockets, do they?"
+
+"Well, no, not here; but I tell you they'll search your _pockets_ at
+Antwerp and Brussels," says the lady.
+
+Somebody catches the sound, and flies off into the state rooms with the
+intelligence that "the custom house officers are so dreadful--they rip
+open your trunks, pull out all your things, burn your books, take away
+your daguerreotypes, and even search your pockets;" and a row of groans
+is heard ascending from the row of state rooms, as all begin to revolve
+what they have in their trunks, and what they are to do in this
+emergency.
+
+"Pray tell me," said I to a gentlemanly man, who had crossed four or
+five times, "is there really so much annoyance at the custom house?"
+
+"Annoyance, ma'am? No, not the slightest."
+
+"But do they really turn out the contents of the trunks, and take away
+people's daguerreotypes, and burn their books?"
+
+"Nothing of the kind, ma'am. I apprehend no difficulty. I never had any.
+There are a few articles on which duty is charged. I have a case of
+cigars, for instance; I shall show them to the custom house officer, and
+pay the duty. If a person seems disposed to be fair, there is no
+difficulty. The examination of ladies' trunks is merely nominal; nothing
+is deranged."
+
+So it proved. We arrived on Sunday morning; the custom house officers,
+very gentlemanly men, came on board; our luggage was all set out, and
+passed through a rapid examination, which in many cases amounted only to
+opening the trunk and shutting it, and all was over. The whole ceremony
+did not occupy two hours.
+
+So ends this letter. You shall hear further how we landed at some future
+time.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER II.
+
+
+DEAR FATHER:--
+
+It was on Sunday morning that we first came in sight of land. The day
+was one of a thousand--clear, calm, and bright. It is one of those
+strange, throbbing feelings, that come only once in a while in life;
+this waking up to find an ocean crossed and long-lost land restored
+again in another hemisphere; something like what we should suppose might
+be the thrill of awakening from life to immortality, and all the wonders
+of the world unknown. That low, green line of land in the horizon is
+Ireland; and we, with water smooth as a lake and sails furled, are
+running within a mile of the shore. Every body on deck, full of spirits
+and expectation, busy as can be looking through spyglasses, and
+exclaiming at every object on shore,--
+
+"Look! there's Skibareen, where the worst of the famine was," says one.
+
+"Look! that's a ruined Martello tower," says another.
+
+We new voyagers, who had never seen any ruin more imposing than that of
+a cow house, and, of course, were ravenous for old towers, were now
+quite wide awake, but were disappointed to learn that these were only
+custom house rendezvous. Here is the county of Cork. Some one calls
+out,--
+
+"There is O'Connell's house;" and a warm dispute ensues whether a large
+mansion, with a stone chapel by it, answers to that name. At all events
+the region looks desolate enough, and they say the natives of it are
+almost savages. A passenger remarks, that "O'Connell never really did
+any thing for the Irish, but lived on his capacity for exciting their
+enthusiasm." Thereupon another expresses great contempt for the Irish
+who could be so taken in. Nevertheless, the capability of a
+disinterested enthusiasm is, on the whole, a nobler property of a human
+being than a shrewd self-interest. I like the Irish all the better for
+it.
+
+Now we pass Kinsale lighthouse; there is the spot where the Albion was
+wrecked. It is a bare, frowning cliff, with walls of rock rising
+perpendicularly out of the sea. Now, to be sure, the sea smiles and
+sparkles around the base of it, as gently as if it never could storm;
+yet under other skies, and with a fierce south-east wind, how the waves
+would pour in here! Woe then to the distressed and rudderless vessel
+that drifts towards those fatal rocks! This gives the outmost and
+boldest view of the point.
+
+[Illustration: View East of Kinsale.]
+
+The Albion struck just round the left of the point, where the rock rises
+perpendicularly out of the sea. I well remember, when a child, of the
+newspapers being filled with the dreadful story of the wreck of the ship
+Albion--how for hours, rudderless and helpless, they saw themselves
+driving with inevitable certainty against these pitiless rocks; and how,
+in the last struggle, one human being after another was dashed against
+them in helpless agony.
+
+What an infinite deal of misery results from man's helplessness and
+ignorance and nature's inflexibility in this one matter of crossing the
+ocean! What agonies of prayer there were during all the long hours that
+this ship was driving straight on to these fatal rocks, all to no
+purpose! It struck and crushed just the same. Surely, without the
+revelation of God in Jesus, who could believe in the divine goodness? I
+do not wonder the old Greeks so often spoke of their gods as cruel, and
+believed the universe was governed by a remorseless and inexorable fate.
+Who would come to any other conclusion, except from the pages of the
+Bible?
+
+But we have sailed far past Kinsale point. Now blue and shadowy loom up
+the distant form of the Youghal Mountains, (pronounced _Yoole_.) The
+surface of the water is alive with fishing boats, spreading their white
+wings and skimming about like so many moth millers.
+
+About nine o'clock we were crossing the sand bar, which lies at the
+mouth of the Mersey River, running up towards Liverpool. Our signal
+pennants are fluttering at the mast head, pilot full of energy on one
+wheel house, and a man casting the lead on the other.
+
+"By the mark, five," says the man. The pilot, with all his energy, is
+telegraphing to the steersman. This is a very close and complicated
+piece of navigation, I should think, this running up the Mersey, for
+every moment we are passing some kind of a signal token, which warns off
+from some shoal. Here is a bell buoy, where the waves keep the bell
+always tolling; here, a buoyant lighthouse; and "See there, those
+shoals, how pokerish they look!" says one of the passengers, pointing to
+the foam on our starboard bow. All is bustle, animation, exultation. Now
+float out the American stars and stripes on our bow.
+
+Before us lies the great city of Liverpool. No old Cathedral, no
+castles, a real New Yorkish place.
+
+"There, that's the fort," cries one. Bang, bang, go the two guns from
+our forward gangway.
+
+"I wonder if they will fire from the fort," says another.
+
+"How green that grass looks!" says a third; "and what pretty cottages!"
+
+"All modern, though," says somebody, in tones of disappointment. Now we
+are passing the Victoria Dock. Bang, bang, again. We are in a forest of
+ships of all nations; their masts bristling like the tall pines in
+Maine; their many colored flags streaming like the forest leaves in
+autumn.
+
+"Hark," says one; "there's, a chime of bells from the city; how sweet! I
+had quite forgotten it was Sunday."
+
+Here we cast anchor, and the small steam tender conies puffing
+alongside. Now for the custom house officers. State rooms, holds, and
+cabins must all give up their trunks; a general muster among the
+baggage, and passenger after passenger comes forward as their names are
+called, much as follows: "Snooks." "Here, sir." "Any thing contraband
+here, Mr. Snooks? Any cigars, tobacco, &c.?" "Nothing, sir."
+
+A little unlocking, a little fumbling. "Shut up; all right; ticket
+here." And a little man pastes on each article a slip of paper, with the
+royal arms of England and the magical letters V.R., to remind all men
+that they have come into a country where a lady reigns, and of course
+must behave themselves as prettily as they can.
+
+We were inquiring of some friends for the most convenient hotel, when we
+found the son of Mr. Cropper, of Dingle Bank, waiting in the cabin, to
+take us with him to their hospitable abode. In a few moments after the
+baggage had been examined, we all bade adieu to the old ship, and went
+on board the little steam tender, which carries passengers up to the
+city.
+
+This Mersey River would be a very beautiful one, if it were not so dingy
+and muddy. As we are sailing up in the tender towards Liverpool, I
+deplore the circumstance feelingly. "What does make this river so
+muddy?"
+
+"O," says a bystander, "don't you know that
+
+  'The quality of mercy is not strained'?"
+
+And now we are fairly alongside the shore, and we are soon going to set
+our foot on the land of Old England.
+
+Say what we will, an American, particularly a New Englander, can never
+approach the old country without a kind of thrill and pulsation of
+kindred. Its history for two centuries was our history. Its literature,
+laws, and language are our literature, laws, and language. Spenser,
+Shakspeare, Bacon, Milton, were a glorious inheritance, which we share
+in common. Our very life-blood is English life-blood. It is Anglo-Saxon
+vigor that is spreading our country from Atlantic to Pacific, and
+leading on a new era in the world's development. America is a tall,
+sightly young shoot, that has grown from the old royal oak of England;
+divided from its parent root, it has shot up in new, rich soil, and
+under genial, brilliant skies, and therefore takes on a new type of
+growth and foliage, but the sap in it is the same.
+
+I had an early opportunity of making acquaintance with my English
+brethren; for, much to my astonishment, I found quite a crowd on the
+wharf, and we walked up to our carriage through a long lane of people,
+bowing, and looking very glad to see us. When I came to get into the
+hack it was surrounded by more faces than I could count. They stood
+very quietly, and looked very kindly, though evidently very much
+determined to look. Something prevented the hack from moving on; so the
+interview was prolonged for some time. I therefore took occasion to
+remark the very fair, pure complexions, the clear eyes, and the general
+air of health and vigor, which seem to characterize our brethren and
+sisters of the island. There seemed to be no occasion to ask them, how
+they did, as they were evidently quite well. Indeed, this air of health
+is one of the most striking things when one lands in England.
+
+They were not burly, red-faced, and stout, as I had sometimes conceived
+of the English people, but just full enough to suggest the idea of vigor
+and health. The presence of so many healthy, rosy people looking at me,
+all reduced as I was, first by land and then by sea sickness, made me
+feel myself more withered and forlorn than ever. But there was an
+earnestness and a depth of kind feeling in some of the faces, which I
+shall long remember. It seemed as if I had not only touched the English
+shore, but felt the English heart.
+
+Our carriage at last drove on, taking us through Liverpool, and a mile
+or two out, and at length wound its way along the gravel paths of a
+beautiful little retreat, on the banks of the Mersey, called the
+"Dingle." It opened to my eyes like a paradise, all wearied as I was
+with the tossing of the sea. I have since become familiar with these
+beautiful little spots, which are so common in England; but now all was
+entirely new to me.
+
+We rode by shining clumps of the Portugal laurel, a beautiful evergreen,
+much resembling our mountain rhododendron; then there was the prickly,
+polished, dark-green holly, which I had never seen before, but which
+is, certainly, one of the most perfect of shrubs. The turf was of that
+soft, dazzling green, and had that peculiar velvet-like smoothness,
+which seem characteristic of England. We stopped at last before the door
+of a cottage, whose porch was overgrown with ivy. From that moment I
+ceased to feel myself a stranger in England. I cannot tell you how
+delightful to me, dizzy and weary as I was, was the first sight of the
+chamber of reception which had been prepared for us. No item of cozy
+comfort that one could desire was omitted. The sofa and easy chair
+wheeled up before a cheerful coal fire, a bright little teakettle
+steaming in front of the grate, a table with a beautiful vase of
+flowers, books, and writing apparatus, and kind friends with words full
+of affectionate cheer,--all these made me feel at home in a moment.
+
+The hospitality of England has become famous in the world, and, I think,
+with reason. I doubt not there is just as much hospitable feeling in
+other countries; but in England the matter of coziness and home comfort
+has been so studied, and matured, and reduced to system, that they
+really have it in their power to effect more, towards making their
+guests comfortable, than perhaps any other people.
+
+After a short season allotted to changing our ship garments and for
+rest, we found ourselves seated at the dinner table. While dining, the
+sister-in-law of our friends came in from the next door, to exchange a
+word or two of welcome, and invite us to breakfast with them the
+following morning.
+
+Between all the excitements of landing, and meeting so many new faces,
+and the remains of the dizzy motion of the ship, which still haunted me,
+I found it impossible to close my eyes to sleep that first night till
+the dim gray of dawn. I got up as soon as it was light, and looked out
+of the window; and as my eyes fell on the luxuriant, ivy-covered porch,
+the clumps of shining, dark-green holly bushes, I said to myself, "Ah,
+really, this is England!"
+
+I never saw any plant that struck me as more beautiful than this holly.
+It is a dense shrub growing from six to eight feet high, with a thickly
+varnished leaf of green. The outline of the leaf is something like this.
+I do not believe it can ever come to a state of perfect development
+under the fierce alternations of heat and cold which obtain in our New
+England climate, though it grows in the Southern States. It is one of
+the symbolical shrubs of England, probably because its bright green in
+winter makes it so splendid a Christmas decoration. A little bird sat
+twittering on one of the sprays. He had a bright red breast, and seemed
+evidently to consider himself of good blood and family, with the best
+reason, as I afterwards learned, since he was no other than the
+identical robin redbreast renowned in song and story; undoubtedly a
+lineal descendant of that very cock robin whose death and burial form so
+vivid a portion of our childish literature.
+
+I must tell you, then, as one of the first remarks on matters and things
+here in England, that "robin redbreast" is not at all the fellow we in
+America take him to be. The character who flourishes under that name
+among us is quite a different bird; he is twice as large, and has
+altogether a different air, and as he sits up with military erectness on
+a rail fence or stump, shows not even a family likeness to his
+diminutive English namesake. Well, of course, robin over here will claim
+to have the real family estate and title, since he lives in a country
+where such matters are understood and looked into. Our robin is probably
+some fourth cousin, who, like others, has struck out a new course for
+himself in America, and thrives upon it.
+
+We hurried to dress, remembering our engagements to breakfast this
+morning with a brother of our host, whose cottage stands on the same
+ground, within a few steps of our own. I had not the slightest idea of
+what the English mean by a breakfast, and therefore went in all
+innocence, supposing that I should see nobody but the family circle of
+my acquaintances. Quite to my astonishment, I found a party of between
+thirty and forty people. Ladies sitting with their bonnets on, as in a
+morning call. It was impossible, however, to feel more than a momentary
+embarrassment in the friendly warmth and cordiality of the circle by
+whom we were surrounded.
+
+The English are called cold and stiff in their manners; I had always
+heard they were so, but I certainly saw nothing of it here. A circle of
+family relatives could not have received us with more warmth and
+kindness. The remark which I made mentally, as my eye passed around the
+circle, was--Why, these people are just like home; they look like us,
+and the tone of sentiment and feeling is precisely such as I have been
+accustomed to; I mean with the exception of the antislavery question.
+
+That question has, from the very first, been, in England, a deeply
+religious movement. It was conceived and carried on by men of devotional
+habits, in the same spirit in which the work of foreign missions was
+undertaken in our own country; by just such earnest, self-denying,
+devout men as Samuel J. Mills and Jeremiah Evarts.
+
+It was encountered by the same contempt and opposition, in the outset,
+from men of merely worldly habits and principles; and to this day it
+retains that hold on the devotional mind of the English nation that the
+foreign mission cause does in America.
+
+Liverpool was at first to the antislavery cause nearly what New York has
+been with us. Its commercial interests were largely implicated in the
+slave trade, and the virulence of opposition towards the first movers of
+the antislavery reform in Liverpool was about as great as it is now
+against abolitionists in Charleston.
+
+When Clarkson first came here to prosecute his inquiries into the
+subject, a mob collected around him, and endeavored to throw him off the
+dock into the water; he was rescued by a gentleman, some of whose
+descendants I met on this occasion.
+
+The father of our host, Mr. Cropper, was one of the first and most
+efficient supporters of the cause in Liverpool; and the whole circle was
+composed of those who had taken a deep interest in that struggle. The
+wife of our host was the daughter of the celebrated Lord Chief Justice
+Denman, a man who, for many years, stood unrivalled, at the head of the
+legal mind in England, and who, with a generous ardor seldom equalled,
+devoted all his energies to this sacred cause.
+
+When the publication of Uncle Tom's Cabin turned the attention of the
+British public to the existing horrors of slavery in America, some
+palliations of the system appeared in English papers. Lord Denman,
+though then in delicate health and advanced years, wrote a series of
+letters upon the subject--an exertion which entirely prostrated his
+before feeble health. In one of the addresses made at table, a very
+feeling allusion was made to Lord Denman's labors, and also to those of
+the honored father of the two Messrs. Cropper.
+
+As breakfast parties are things which we do not have in America, perhaps
+mother would like to know just how they are managed. The hour is
+generally somewhere between nine and twelve, and the whole idea and
+spirit of the thing is that of an informal and social gathering. Ladies
+keep their bonnets on, and are not dressed in full toilet. On this
+occasion we sat and chatted together socially till the whole party was
+assembled in the drawing room, and then breakfast was announced. Each
+gentleman had a lady assigned him, and we walked into the dining room,
+where stood the tables tastefully adorned with flowers, and spread with
+an abundant cold collation, while tea and coffee were passed round by
+servants. In each plate was a card, containing the name of the person
+for whom it was designed. I took my place by the side of the Rev. Dr.
+McNiel, one of the most celebrated clergymen of the established church
+in Liverpool.
+
+The conversation was flowing, free, and friendly. The old reminiscences
+of the antislavery conflict in England were touchingly recalled, and the
+warmest sympathy was expressed for those in America who are carrying on
+the same cause.
+
+In one thing I was most agreeably disappointed. I had been told that the
+Christians of England were intolerant and unreasonable in their opinions
+on this subject; that they could not be made to understand the peculiar
+difficulties which beset it in America, and that they therefore made no
+distinction and no allowance in their censures. All this I found, so
+far as this circle were concerned, to be strikingly untrue. They
+appeared to be peculiarly affectionate in their feelings as regarded our
+country; to have the highest appreciation of, and the deepest sympathy
+with, our religious community, and to be extremely desirous to assist us
+in our difficulties. I also found them remarkably well informed upon the
+subject. They keep their eyes upon our papers, our public documents and
+speeches in Congress, and are as well advised in regard to the progress
+of the moral conflict as our Foreign Missionary Society is with the
+state of affairs in Hindostan and Burmah.
+
+Several present spoke of the part which England originally had in
+planting slavery in America, as placing English Christians under a
+solemn responsibility to bring every possible moral influence to bear
+for its extinction. Nevertheless, they seem to be the farthest possible
+from an unkind or denunciatory spirit, even towards those most deeply
+implicated. The remarks made by Dr. McNiel to me were a fair sample of
+the spirit and attitude of all present.
+
+"I have been trying, Mrs. S.," he said, "to bring my mind into the
+attitude of those Christians at the south who defend the institution of
+slavery. There are _real_ Christians there who do this--are there not?"
+
+I replied, that undoubtedly there were some most amiable and Christian
+people who defend slavery on principle, just as there had been some to
+defend every form of despotism.
+
+"Do give me some idea of the views they take; it is something to me so
+inconceivable. I am utterly at a loss how it can be made in any way
+plausible."
+
+I then stated that the most plausible view, and that which seemed to
+have the most force with good men, was one which represented the
+institution of slavery as a sort of wardship or guardian relation, by
+which an inferior race were brought under the watch and care of a
+superior race to be instructed in Christianity.
+
+He then inquired if there was any system of religious instruction
+actually pursued.
+
+In reply to this, I gave him some sketch of the operations for the
+religious instruction of the negroes, which had been carried on by the
+Presbyterian and other denominations. I remarked that many good people
+who do not take very extended views, fixing their attention chiefly on
+the efforts which they are making for the religious instruction of
+slaves, are blind to the sin and injustice of allowing their legal
+position to remain what it is.
+
+"But how do they shut their eyes to the various cruelties of the
+system,--the separation of families--the domestic slave trade?"
+
+I replied, "In part, by not inquiring into them. The best kind of people
+are, in general, those who _know_ least of the cruelties of the system;
+they never witness them. As in the city of London or Liverpool there may
+be an amount of crime and suffering which many residents may live years
+without seeing or knowing, so it is in the slave states."
+
+Every person present appeared to be in that softened and charitable
+frame of mind which disposed them to make every allowance for the
+situation of Christians so peculiarly tempted, while, at the same time,
+there was the most earnest concern, in view of the dishonor brought upon
+Christianity by the defence of such a system.
+
+One other thing I noticed, which was an agreeable disappointment to me.
+I had been told that there was no social intercourse between the
+established church and dissenters. In this party, however, were people
+of many different denominations. Our host belongs to the established
+church; his brother, with whom we are visiting, is a Baptist, and their
+father was a Friend; and there appeared to be the utmost social
+cordiality. Whether I shall find this uniformly the case will appear in
+time.
+
+After the breakfast party was over, I found at the door an array of
+children of the poor, belonging to a school kept under the
+superintendence of Mrs. E. Cropper, and called, as is customary here, a
+ragged school. The children, however, were any thing but ragged, being
+tidily dressed, remarkably clean, with glowing cheeks and bright eyes. I
+must say, so far as I have seen them, English children have a much
+healthier appearance than those of America. By the side of their bright
+bloom ours look pale and faded.
+
+Another school of the same kind is kept in this neighborhood, under the
+auspices of Sir George Stephen, a conspicuous advocate of the
+antislavery cause.
+
+I thought the fair patroness of this school seemed not a little
+delighted with the appearance of her protégés, as they sung, with great
+enthusiasm, Jane Taylor's hymn, commencing,--
+
+  "I thank the goodness and the grace
+    That on my birth have smiled,
+  And made me in these Christian days
+    A happy English child."
+
+All the little rogues were quite familiar with Topsy and Eva, and _au
+fait_ in the fortunes of Uncle Tom; so that, being introduced as the
+maternal relative of these characters, I seemed to find favor in their
+eyes. And when one of the speakers congratulated them that they were
+born in a land where no child could be bought or sold, they responded
+with enthusiastic cheers--cheers which made me feel rather sad; but
+still I could not quarrel with English people for taking all the pride
+and all the comfort which this inspiriting truth can convey.
+
+They had a hard enough struggle in rooting up the old weed of slavery,
+to justify them in rejoicing in their freedom. Well, the day will come
+in America, as I trust, when as much can be said for us.
+
+After the children were gone came a succession of calls; some from very
+aged people, the veterans of the old antislavery cause. I was astonished
+and overwhelmed by the fervor of feeling some of them manifested; there
+seemed to be something almost prophetic in the enthusiasm with which
+they expressed their hope of our final success in America. This
+excitement, though very pleasant, was wearisome, and I was glad of an
+opportunity after dinner to rest myself, by rambling uninterrupted, with
+my friends, through the beautiful grounds of the Dingle.
+
+Two nice little boys were my squires on this occasion, one of whom, a
+sturdy little fellow, on being asked his name, gave it to me in full as
+Joseph Babington Macaulay, and I learned that his mother, by a former
+marriage, had been the wife of Macaulay's brother. Uncle Tom Macaulay, I
+found, was a favorite character with the young people. Master Harry
+conducted me through the walks to the conservatories, all brilliant with
+azaleas and all sorts of flowers, and then through a long walk on the
+banks of the Mersey.
+
+Here the wild flowers attracted my attention, as being so different
+from those of our own country. Their daisy is not our flower, with its
+wide, plaited ruff and yellow centre. The English daisy is
+
+  "The wee modest crimson-tipped flower,"
+
+which Burns celebrates. It is what we raise in greenhouses, and call the
+mountain daisy. Its effect, growing profusely about fields and grass
+plats, is very beautiful.
+
+We read much, among the poets, of the primrose,
+
+  "Earliest daughter of the Spring."
+
+This flower is one, also, which we cultivate in gardens to some extent.
+The outline of it is as follows: The hue a delicate straw color; it
+grows in tufts in shady places, and has a pure, serious look, which
+reminds one of the line of Shakspeare--
+
+  "Pale primroses, which die unmarried."
+
+It has also the faintest and most ethereal perfume,--a perfume that
+seems to come and go in the air like music; and you perceive it at a
+little distance from a tuft of them, when you would not if you gathered
+and smelled them. On the whole, the primrose is a poet's and a painter's
+flower. An artist's eye would notice an exquisite harmony between the
+yellow-green hue of its leaves and the tint of its blossoms. I do not
+wonder that it has been so great a favorite among the poets. It is just
+such a flower as Mozart and Raphael would have loved.
+
+Then there is the bluebell, a bulb, which also grows in deep shades. It
+is a little purple bell, with a narrow green leaf, like a ribbon. We
+often read in English stories, of the gorse and furze; these are two
+names for the same plant, a low bush, with strong, prickly leaves,
+growing much like a juniper. The contrast of its very brilliant yellow,
+pea-shaped blossoms, with the dark green of its leaves, is very
+beautiful. It grows here in hedges and on commons, and is thought rather
+a plebeian affair. I think it would make quite an addition to our garden
+shrubbery. Possibly it might make as much sensation with us as our
+mullein does in foreign greenhouses.
+
+After rambling a while, we came to a beautiful summer house, placed in a
+retired spot, so as to command a view of the Mersey River. I think they
+told me that it was Lord Denman's favorite seat. There we sat down, and
+in common with the young gentlemen and ladies of the family, had quite a
+pleasant talk together. Among other things we talked about the question
+which is now agitating the public mind a good deal,--Whether it is
+expedient to open the Crystal Palace to the people on Sunday. They said
+that this course was much urged by some philanthropists, on the ground
+that it was the only day when the working classes could find any leisure
+to visit it, and that it seemed hard to shut them out entirely from all
+the opportunities and advantages which they might thus derive; that to
+exclude the laborer from recreation on the Sabbath, was the same as
+saying that he should never have any recreation. I asked, why the
+philanthropists could not urge employers to give their workmen a part of
+Saturday for this purpose; as it seemed to me unchristian to drive trade
+so that the laboring man had no time but Sunday for intellectual and
+social recreation. We rather came to the conclusion that this was the
+right course; whether the people of England will, is quite another
+matter.
+
+The grounds of the Dingle embrace three cottages; those of the two
+Messrs. Cropper, and that of a son, who is married to a daughter of Dr.
+Arnold. I rather think this way of relatives living together is more
+common here in England than it is in America; and there is more idea of
+home permanence connected with the family dwelling-place than with us,
+where the country is so wide, and causes of change and removal so
+frequent. A man builds a house in England with the expectation of living
+in it and leaving it to his children; while we shed our houses in
+America as easily as a snail does his shell. We live a while in Boston,
+and then a while in New York, and then, perhaps, turn up at Cincinnati.
+Scarcely any body with us is living where they expect to live and die.
+The man that dies in the house he was born in is a wonder. There is
+something pleasant in the permanence and repose of the English family
+estate, which we, in America, know very little of. All which is apropos
+to our having finished our walk, and got back to the ivy-covered porch
+again.
+
+The next day at breakfast, it was arranged that we should take a drive
+out to Speke Hall, an old mansion, which is considered a fine specimen
+of ancient house architecture. So the carriage was at the door. It was
+a cool, breezy, April morning, but there was an abundance of wrappers
+and carriage blankets provided to keep us comfortable. I must say, by
+the by, that English housekeepers are bountiful in their provision for
+carriage comfort. Every household has a store of warm, loose over
+garments, which are offered, if needed, to the guests; and each carriage
+is provided with one or two blankets, manufactured and sold expressly
+for this use, to envelope one's feet and limbs; besides all which,
+should the weather be cold, comes out a long stone reservoir, made flat
+on both sides, and filled with hot water, for foot stools. This is an
+improvement on the primitive simplicity of hot bricks, and even on the
+tin foot stove, which has nourished in New England.
+
+Being thus provided with all things necessary for comfort, we rattled
+merrily away, and I, remembering that I was in England, kept my eyes
+wide open to see what I could see. The hedges of the fields were just
+budding, and the green showed itself on them, like a thin gauze veil.
+These hedges are not all so well kept and trimmed as I expected to find
+them. Some, it is true, are cut very carefully; these are generally
+hedges to ornamental grounds; but many of those which separate the
+fields straggle and sprawl, and have some high bushes and some low ones,
+and, in short, are no more like a hedge than many rows of bushes that we
+have at home. But such as they are, they are the only dividing lines of
+the fields, and it is certainly a more picturesque mode of division than
+our stone or worm fences. Outside of every hedge, towards the street,
+there is generally a ditch, and at the bottom of the hedge is the
+favorite nestling-place for all sorts of wild flowers. I remember
+reading in stories about children trying to crawl through a gap in the
+hedge to get at flowers, and tumbling into a ditch on the other side,
+and I now saw exactly how they could do it.
+
+As we drive we pass by many beautiful establishments, about of the
+quality of our handsomest country houses, but whose grounds are kept
+with a precision and exactness rarely to be seen among us. We cannot get
+the gardeners who are qualified to do it; and if we could, the
+painstaking, slow way of proceeding, and the habit of creeping
+thoroughness, which are necessary to accomplish such results, die out in
+America. Nevertheless, such grounds are exceedingly beautiful to look
+upon, and I was much obliged to the owners of these places for keeping
+their gates hospitably open, as seems to be the custom here.
+
+After a drive of seven or eight miles, we alighted in front of Speke
+Hall. This house is a specimen of the old fortified houses of England,
+and was once fitted up with a moat and drawbridge, all in approved
+feudal style. It was built somewhere about the year 1500. The sometime
+moat was now full of smooth, green grass, and the drawbridge no longer
+remains.
+
+This was the first really old thing that we had seen since our arrival
+in England. We came up first to a low, arched, stone door, and knocked
+with a great old-fashioned knocker; this brought no answer but a treble
+and bass duet from a couple of dogs inside; so we opened the door, and
+saw a square court, paved with round stones, and a dark, solitary yew
+tree in the centre. Here in England, I think, they have vegetable
+creations made on purpose to go with old, dusky buildings; and this yew
+tree is one of them. It has altogether a most goblin-like, bewitched
+air, with its dusky black leaves and ragged branches, throwing
+themselves straight out with odd twists and angular lines, and might put
+one in mind of an old raven with some of his feathers pulled out, or a
+black cat with her hair stroked the wrong way, or any other strange,
+uncanny thing. Besides this they live almost forever; for when they have
+grown so old that any respectable tree ought to be thinking of dying,
+they only take another twist, and so live on another hundred years. I
+saw some in England seven hundred years old, and they had grown queerer
+every century. It is a species of evergreen, and its leaf resembles our
+hemlock, only it is longer. This sprig gives you some idea of its
+general form. It is always planted about churches and graveyards; a kind
+of dismal emblem of immortality. This sepulchral old tree and the bass
+and treble dogs were the only occupants of the court. One of these, a
+great surly mastiff, barked out of his kennel on one side, and the
+other, a little wiry terrier, out of his on the opposite side, and both
+strained on their chains, as if they would enjoy making even more
+decided demonstrations if they could.
+
+There was an aged, mossy fountain for holy water by the side of the
+wall, in which some weeds were growing. A door in the house was soon
+opened by a decent-looking serving woman, to whom we communicated our
+desire to see the hall.
+
+We were shown into a large dining hall with a stone floor, wainscoted
+with carved oak, almost as black as ebony. There were some pious
+sentences and moral reflections inscribed in old English text, carved
+over the doors, and like a cornice round the ceiling, which was also of
+carved oak. Their general drift was, to say that life is short, and to
+call for watchfulness and prayer. The fireplace of the hall yawned like
+a great cavern, and nothing else, one would think, than a cart load of
+western sycamores could have supplied an appropriate fire. A great
+two-handed sword of some ancestor hung over the fireplace. On taking it
+down it reached to C----'s shoulder, who, you know, is six feet high.
+
+We went into a sort of sitting room, and looked out through a window,
+latticed with little diamond panes, upon a garden wildly beautiful. The
+lattice was all wreathed round with jessamines. The furniture of this
+room was modern, and it seemed the more unique from its contrast with
+the old architecture.
+
+We went up stairs to see the chambers, and passed through a long,
+narrow, black oak corridor, whose slippery boards had the authentic
+ghostly squeak to them. There was a chamber, hung with old, faded
+tapestry of Scripture subjects. In this chamber there was behind the
+tapestry a door, which, being opened, displayed a staircase, that led
+delightfully off to nobody knows where. The furniture was black oak,
+carved, in the most elaborate manner, with cherubs' heads and other good
+and solemn subjects, calculated to produce a ghostly state of mind. And,
+to crown all, we heard that there was a haunted chamber, which was not
+to be opened, where a white lady appeared and walked at all approved
+hours.
+
+Now, only think what a foundation for a story is here. If our Hawthorne
+could conjure up such a thing as the Seven Gables in one of our prosaic
+country towns, what would he have done if he had lived here? Now he is
+obliged to get his ghostly images by looking through smoked glass at our
+square, cold realities; but one such old place as this is a standing
+romance. Perhaps it may add to the effect to say, that the owner of the
+house is a bachelor, who lives there very retired, and employs himself
+much in reading.
+
+The housekeeper, who showed us about, indulged us with a view of the
+kitchen, whose snowy, sanded floor and resplendent polished copper and
+tin, were sights for a housekeeper to take away in her heart of hearts.
+The good woman produced her copy of Uncle Tom, and begged the favor of
+my autograph, which I gave, thinking it quite a happy thing to be able
+to do a favor at so cheap a rate.
+
+After going over the house we wandered through the grounds, which are
+laid out with the same picturesque mixture of the past and present.
+There was a fine grove, under whose shadows we walked, picking
+primroses, and otherwise enacting the poetic, till it was time to go. As
+we passed out, we were again saluted with a _feu de joie_ by the two
+fidelities at the door, which we took in very good part, since it is
+always respectable to be thorough in whatever you are set to do.
+
+Coming home we met with an accident to the carriage which obliged us to
+get out and walk some distance. I was glad enough of it, because it gave
+me a better opportunity for seeing the country. We stopped at a cottage
+to get some rope, and a young woman came out with that beautiful, clear
+complexion which I so much admire here in England; literally her cheeks
+were like damask roses.
+
+I told Isa I wanted to see as much of the interior of the cottages as I
+could; and so, as we were walking onward toward home, we managed to call
+once or twice, on the excuse of asking the way and distance. The
+exterior was very neat, being built of brick or stone, and each had
+attached to it a little flower garden. Isa said that the cottagers often
+offered them a slice of bread or tumbler of milk.
+
+They have a way here of building the cottages two or three in a block
+together, which struck me as different from our New England manner,
+where, in the country, every house stands detached.
+
+In the evening I went into Liverpool, to attend a party of friends of
+the antislavery cause. In the course of the evening, Mr. Stowe was
+requested to make some remarks. Among other things he spoke upon the
+support the free part of the world give to slavery, by the purchase of
+the produce of slave labor; and, in particular, on the great quantity of
+slave-grown cotton purchased by England; suggesting it as a subject for
+inquiry, whether this cannot be avoided.
+
+One or two gentlemen, who are largely concerned in the manufacture and
+importation of cotton, spoke to him on the subject afterwards, and said
+it was a thing which ought to be very seriously considered. It is
+probable that the cotton trade of Great Britain is the great essential
+item which supports slavery, and such considerations ought not,
+therefore, to be without their results.
+
+When I was going away, the lady of the house said that the servants were
+anxious to see me; so I came into the dressing room to give them, an
+opportunity.
+
+While at Mr. C.'s, also, I had once or twice been called out to see
+servants, who had come in to visit those of the family. All of them had
+read Uncle Tom's Cabin, and were full of sympathy. Generally speaking,
+the servants seem to me quite a superior class to what are employed in
+that capacity with us. They look very intelligent, are dressed with
+great neatness, and though their manners are very much more deferential
+than those of servants in our country, it appears to be a difference
+arising quite as much from self-respect and a sense of propriety as from
+servility. Every body's manners are more deferential in England than in
+America.
+
+The next day was appointed to leave Liverpool. It had been arranged
+that, before leaving, we should meet the ladies of the Negroes' Friend
+Society, an association formed at the time of the original antislavery
+agitation in England. We went in the carriage with our friends Mr. and
+Mrs. E. Cropper. On the way they were conversing upon the labors of Mrs.
+Chisholm, the celebrated female philanthropist, whose efforts for the
+benefit of emigrants are awakening a very general interest among all
+classes in England. They said there had been hesitation on the part of
+some good people, in regard to coöperating with her, because she is a
+Roman Catholic.
+
+It was agreed among us, that the great humanities of the present day are
+a proper ground on which all sects can unite, and that if any feared the
+extension of wrong sentiments, they had only to supply emigrant ships
+more abundantly with the Bible. Mr. C. said that this is a movement
+exciting very extensive interest, and that they hoped Mrs. Chisholm
+would visit Liverpool before long.
+
+The meeting was a very interesting one. The style of feeling expressed
+in all the remarks was tempered by a deep and earnest remembrance of the
+share which England originally had in planting the evil of slavery in
+the civilized world, and her consequent obligation, as a Christian
+nation, now not to cease her efforts until the evil is extirpated, not
+merely from her own soil, but from all lands.
+
+The feeling towards America was respectful and friendly, and the utmost
+sympathy was expressed with her in the difficulties with which she is
+environed by this evil. The tone of the meeting was deeply earnest and
+religious. They presented us with a sum to be appropriated for the
+benefit of the slave, in any way we might think proper.
+
+A great number of friends accompanied us to the cars, and a beautiful
+bouquet of flowers was sent, with a very affecting message from, a sick
+gentleman, who, from the retirement of his chamber, felt a desire to
+testify his sympathy.
+
+Now, if all this enthusiasm for freedom and humanity, in the person of
+the American slave, is to be set down as good for nothing in England,
+because there are evils there in society which require redress, what
+then shall we say of ourselves? Have we not been enthusiastic for
+freedom in the person of the Greek, the Hungarian, and the Pole, while
+protecting a much worse despotism than any from which they suffer? Do we
+not consider it our duty to print and distribute the Bible in all
+foreign lands, when there are three millions of people among whom we
+dare not distribute it at home, and whom it is a penal offence even to
+teach to read it? Do we not send remonstrances to Tuscany, about the
+Madiai, when women are imprisoned in Virginia for teaching slaves to
+read? Is all this hypocritical, insincere, and impertinent in us? Are we
+never to send another missionary, or make another appeal for foreign
+lands, till we have abolished slavery at home? For my part, I think that
+imperfect and inconsistent outbursts of generosity and feeling are a
+great deal better than none. No nation, no individual is wholly
+consistent and Christian; but let us not in ourselves or in other
+nations repudiate the truest and most beautiful developments of
+humanity, because we have not yet attained perfection. All experience
+has proved that the sublime spirit of foreign missions always is
+suggestive of home philanthropies, and that those whose heart has been
+enlarged by the love of all mankind are always those who are most
+efficient in their own particular sphere.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER III.
+
+
+GLASGOW, April 16, 1853.
+
+DEAR AUNT E.:--
+
+You shall have my earliest Scotch letter; for I am sure nobody can
+sympathize in the emotions of the first approach to Scotland as you can.
+A country dear to us by the memory of the dead and of the living; a
+country whose history and literature, interesting enough of itself, has
+become to us still more so, because the reading and learning of it
+formed part of our communion for many a social hour, with friends long
+parted from earth.
+
+The views of Scotland, which lay on my mother's table, even while I was
+a little child, and in poring over which I spent so many happy, dreamy
+hours,--the Scotch ballads, which were the delight of our evening
+fireside, and which seemed almost to melt the soul out of me, before I
+was old enough to understand their words,--the songs of Burns, which had
+been a household treasure among us,--the enchantments of Scott,--all
+these dimly returned upon me. It was the result of them all which I felt
+in nerve and brain.
+
+And, by the by, that puts me in mind of one thing; and that is, how much
+of our pleasure in literature results from its reflection on us from,
+other minds. As we advance in life, the literature which has charmed us
+in the circle of our friends becomes endeared to us from the reflected
+remembrance of them, of their individualities, their opinions, and their
+sympathies, so that our memory of it is a many-colored cord, drawn from
+many minds.
+
+So in coming near to Scotland, I seemed to feel not only my own
+individuality, but all that my friends would have felt, had they been
+with me. For sometimes we seem to be encompassed, as by a cloud, with a
+sense of the sympathy of the absent and the dead.
+
+We left Liverpool with hearts a little tremulous and excited by the
+vibration of an atmosphere of universal sympathy and kindness. We found
+ourselves, at length, shut from the warm adieus of our friends, in a
+snug compartment of the railroad car. The English cars are models of
+comfort and good keeping. There are six seats in a compartment,
+luxuriously cushioned and nicely carpeted, and six was exactly the
+number of our party. Nevertheless, so obstinate is custom that we
+averred at first that we preferred our American cars, deficient as they
+are in many points of neatness and luxury, because they are so much more
+social.
+
+"Dear me," said Mr. S., "six Yankees shut up in a car together! Not one
+Englishman to tell us any thing about the country! Just like the six old
+ladies that made their living by taking tea at each other's houses."
+
+But that is the way here in England: every arrangement in travelling is
+designed to maintain that privacy and reserve which is the dearest and
+most sacred part of an Englishman's nature. Things are so arranged here
+that, if a man pleases, he can travel all through England with his
+family, and keep the circle an unbroken unit, having just as little
+communication with any thing outside of it as in his own house.
+
+From one of these sheltered apartments in a railroad car, he can pass to
+preëngaged parlors and chambers in the hotel, with his own separate
+table, and all his domestic manners and peculiarities unbroken. In fact,
+it is a little compact home travelling about.
+
+Now, all this is very charming to people who know already as much about
+a country as they want to know; but it follows from it that a stranger
+might travel all through England, from one end to the other and not be
+on conversing terms with a person in it. He may be at the same hotel, in
+the same train with people able to give him all imaginable information,
+yet never touch them at any practicable point of communion. This is more
+especially the case if his party, as ours was, is just large enough to
+fill the whole apartment.
+
+As to the comforts of the cars, it is to be said, that for the same
+price you can get far more comfortable riding in America. Their first
+class cars are beyond all praise, but also beyond all price; their
+second class are comfortless, cushionless, and uninviting. Agreeably
+with our theory of democratic equality, we have a general car, not so
+complete as the one, nor so bare as the other, where all ride together;
+and if the traveller in thus riding sees things that occasionally annoy
+him, when he remembers that the whole population, from the highest to
+the lowest, are accommodated here together, he will certainly see
+hopeful indications in the general comfort, order, and respectability
+which prevail; all which we talked over most patriotically together,
+while we were lamenting that there was not a seventh to our party, to
+instruct us in the localities.
+
+Every thing upon the railroad proceeds with systematic accuracy. There
+is no chance for the most careless person to commit a blunder, or make a
+mistake. At the proper time the conductor marches every body into their
+places and locks them in, gives the word, "All right," and away we go.
+Somebody has remarked, very characteristically, that the starting word
+of the English is "all right," and that of the Americans "go ahead."
+
+Away we go through Lancashire, wide awake, looking out on all sides for
+any signs of antiquity. In being thus whirled through English scenery, I
+became conscious of a new understanding of the spirit and phraseology of
+English poetry. There are many phrases and expressions with which we
+have been familiar from childhood, and which, we suppose, in a kind of
+indefinite way, we understand, which, after all, when we come on English
+ground, start into a new significance: take, for instance, these lines
+from L'Allegro:--
+
+  "Sometimes walking, not unseen,
+  By hedge-row elms on hillocks green.
+
+         *       *       *       *       *
+
+  Straight mine eye hath caught new pleasures,
+  While the landscape round it measures;
+  Russet lawns and fallows gray,
+  Where the nibbling flocks do stray;
+  Mountains, on whose barren breast
+  The laboring clouds do often rest;
+  Meadows trim with daisies pied,
+  Shallow brooks and livers wide:
+  Towers and battlements it sees
+  Bosom'd high in tufted trees."
+
+Now, these hedge-row elms. I had never even asked myself what they were
+till I saw them; but you know, as I said in a former letter, the hedges
+are not all of them carefully cut; in fact many of them are only
+irregular rows of bushes, where, although the hawthorn is the staple
+element, yet firs, and brambles, and many other interlopers put in their
+claim, and they all grow up together in a kind of straggling unity; and
+in the hedges trees are often set out, particularly elms, and have a
+very pleasing effect.
+
+Then, too, the trees have more of that rounding outline which is
+expressed by the word "bosomed." But here we are, right under the walls
+of Lancaster, and Mr. S. wakes me up by quoting, "Old John o' Gaunt,
+time-honored Lancaster."
+
+"Time-honored," said I; "it looks as fresh as if it had been built
+yesterday: you do not mean to say that is the real old castle?"
+
+"To be sure, it is the very old castle built in the reign of Edward
+III., by John of Gaunt."
+
+It stands on the summit of a hill, seated regally like a queen upon a
+throne, and every part of it looks as fresh, and sharp, and clear, as if
+it were the work of modern times. It is used now for a county jail. We
+have but a moment to stop or admire--the merciless steam car drives on.
+We have a little talk about the feudal times, and the old past days;
+when again the cry goes up,--
+
+"O, there's something! What's that?"
+
+"O, that is Carlisle."
+
+"Carlisle!" said I; "what, the Carlisle of Scott's ballad?"
+
+"What ballad?"
+
+"Why, don't you remember, in the Lay of the Last Minstrel, the song of
+Albert Graeme, which has something about Carlisle's wall in every verse?
+
+  'It was an English, laydie bright
+  When sun shines fair on Carlisle wall,
+  And she would marry a Scottish knight,
+  For love will still be lord of all.'
+
+I used to read this when I was a child, and wonder what 'Carlisle wall'
+was."
+
+Carlisle is one of the most ancient cities in England, dating quite back
+to the time of the Romans. Wonderful! How these Romans left their mark
+every where!
+
+Carlisle has also its ancient castle, the lofty, massive tower of which
+forms a striking feature of the town.
+
+This castle was built by William Rufus. David, King of Scots, and Robert
+Bruce both tried their hands upon it, in the good old times, when
+England and Scotland were a mutual robbery association. Then the castle
+of the town was its great feature; castles were every thing in those
+days. Now the castle has gone to decay, and stands only for a curiosity,
+and the cotton factory has come up in its place. This place is famous
+for cottons and ginghams, and moreover for a celebrated biscuit bakery.
+So goes the world,--the lively vigorous shoots of the present springing
+out of the old, mouldering trunk of the past.
+
+Mr. S. was in an ecstasy about an old church, a splendid Gothic, in
+which Paley preached. He was archdeacon of Carlisle. We stopped here for
+a little while to take dinner. In a large, handsome room tables were set
+out, and we sat down to a regular meal.
+
+One sees nothing of a town from a railroad station, since it seems to be
+an invariable rule, not only here, but all over Europe, to locate them
+so that you can see nothing from them.
+
+By the by, I forgot to say, among the historical recollections of this
+place, that it was the first stopping-place of Queen Mary, after her
+fatal flight into England. The rooms which she occupied are still shown
+in the castle, and there are interesting letters and documents extant
+from lords whom Elizabeth sent here to visit her, in which they record
+her beauty, her heroic sentiments, and even her dress; so strong was the
+fascination in which she held all who approached her. Carlisle is the
+scene of the denouement of Guy Mannering, and it is from this town that
+Lord Carlisle gets his title.
+
+And now keep up a bright lookout for ruins and old houses. Mr. S., whose
+eyes are always in every place, allowed none of us to slumber, but
+looking out, first on his own side and then on ours, called our
+attention to every visible thing. If he had been appointed on a mission
+of inquiry he could not have been more zealous and faithful, and I began
+to think that our desire for an English cicerone was quite superfluous.
+
+And now we pass Gretna Green, famous in story--that momentous place
+which marks the commencement of Scotland. It is a little straggling
+village, and there is a roadside inn, which has been the scene of
+innumerable Gretna Green marriages.
+
+Owing to the fact that the Scottish law of marriage is far more liberal
+in its construction than the English, this place has been the refuge of
+distressed lovers from time immemorial; and although the practice of
+escaping here is universally condemned as very naughty and improper,
+yet, like every other impropriety, it is kept in countenance by very
+respectable people. Two lord chancellors have had the amiable weakness
+to fall into this snare, and one lord chancellor's son; so says the
+guide book, which is our Koran for the time being. It says, moreover,
+that it would be easy to add a lengthened list of _distingués_ married
+at Gretna Green; but these lord chancellors (Erskine and Eldon) are
+quoted as being the most melancholy monuments. What shall meaner mortals
+do, when law itself, in all her majesty, wig, gown, and all, goes by the
+board?
+
+Well, we are in Scotland at last, and now our pulse rises as the sun
+declines in the west. We catch glimpses of the Solway Frith, and talk
+about Redgauntlet.
+
+One says, "Do you remember the scene on the sea shore, with which it
+opens, describing the rising of the tide?"
+
+And says another, "Don't you remember those lines in the Young Lochinvar
+song?--
+
+  'Love swells like the Solway, but ebbs like its tide.'"
+
+I wonder how many authors it will take to enchant our country from Maine
+to New Orleans, as every foot of ground is enchanted here in Scotland.
+
+The sun went down, and night drew on; still we were in Scotland. Scotch
+ballads, Scotch tunes, and Scotch literature were in the ascendant. We
+sang "Auld Lang Syne," "Scots wha ha'," and "Bonnie Doon," and then,
+changing the key, sang Dundee, Elgin, and Martyrs.
+
+"Take care," said Mr. S.; "don't get too much excited."
+
+"Ah," said I, "this is a thing that comes only once in a lifetime; do
+let us have the comfort of it. We shall never come into Scotland for the
+_first time_ again."
+
+"Ah," said another, "how I wish Walter Scott was alive!"
+
+While we were thus at the fusion point of enthusiasm, the cars stopped
+at Lockerby, where the real Old Mortality is buried. All was dim and
+dark outside, but we soon became conscious that there was quite a number
+collected, peering into the window, and, with a strange kind of thrill,
+I heard my name inquired for in the Scottish accent. I went to the
+window; there were men, women, and children there, and hand after hand
+was presented, with the words, "Ye're welcome to Scotland!"
+
+Then they inquired for, and shook hands with, all the party, having in
+some mysterious manner got the knowledge of who they were, even down to
+little G----, whom they took to be my son. Was it not pleasant, when I
+had a heart so warm for this old country? I shall never forget the
+thrill of those words, "Ye're welcome to Scotland," nor the "Gude
+night."
+
+After that we found similar welcomes in many succeeding stopping-places;
+and though I did wave a towel out of the window, instead of a pocket
+handkerchief, and commit other awkwardnesses, from not knowing how to
+play my part, yet I fancied, after all, that Scotland and we were coming
+on well together. Who the good souls were that were thus watching for
+us through the night, I am sure I do not know; but that they were of the
+"one blood," which unites all the families of the earth, I felt.
+
+As we came towards Glasgow, we saw, upon a high hill, what we supposed
+to be a castle on fire--great volumes of smoke rolling up, and fire
+looking out of arched windows.
+
+"Dear me, what a conflagration!" we all exclaimed. We had not gone very
+far before we saw another, and then, on the opposite side of the car,
+another still.
+
+"Why, it seems to me the country is all on fire."
+
+"I should think," said Mr. S., "if it was in old times, that there had
+been a raid from the Highlands, and set all the houses on fire."
+
+"Or they might be beacons," suggested C.
+
+To this some one answered out of the Lay of the Last Minstrel,--
+
+  "Sweet Teviot, by thy silver tide
+  The glaring bale-fires blaze no more."
+
+As we drew near to Glasgow these illuminations increased, till the whole
+air was red with the glare of them.
+
+"What can they be?"
+
+"Dear me," said Mr. S., in a tone of sudden recollection, "it's the iron
+works! Don't you know Glasgow is celebrated for its iron works?"
+
+So, after all, in these peaceful fires of the iron works, we got an idea
+how the country might have looked in the old picturesque times, when the
+Highlanders came down and set the Lowlands on fire; such scenes as are
+commemorated in the words of Roderick Dhu's song:--
+
+  "Proudly our pibroch, has thrilled in Glen Fruin,
+    And Banmachar's groans to our slogan replied;
+  Glen Luss and Ross Dhu, they are smoking in ruins,
+    And the best of Loch Lomond lies dead on her side."
+
+To be sure the fires of iron founderies are much less picturesque than
+the old beacons, and the clink of hammers than the clash of claymores;
+but the most devout worshipper of the middle ages would hardly wish to
+change them.
+
+Dimly, by the flickering light of these furnaces, we see the approach to
+the old city of Glasgow. There, we are arrived! Friends are waiting in
+the station house. Earnest, eager, friendly faces, ever so many. Warm
+greetings, kindly words. A crowd parting in the middle, through which we
+were conducted into a carriage, and loud cheers of welcome, sent a
+throb, as the voice of living Scotland.
+
+I looked out of the carriage, as we drove on, and saw, by the light of a
+lantern, Argyle Street. It was past twelve o'clock when I found myself
+in a warm, cozy parlor, with friends, whom I have ever since been glad
+to remember. In a little time we were all safely housed in our
+hospitable apartments, and sleep fell on me for the first time in
+Scotland.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+
+DEAR AUNT E.:--
+
+The next morning I awoke worn and weary, and scarce could the charms of
+the social Scotch breakfast restore me. I say Scotch, for we had many
+viands peculiarly national. The smoking porridge, or parritch, of
+oatmeal, which is the great staple dish throughout Scotland. Then there
+was the bannock, a thin, wafer-like cake of the same material. My friend
+laughingly said when he passed it, "You are in the 'land o' cakes,'
+remember." There was also some herring, as nice a Scottish fish as ever
+wore scales, besides dainties innumerable which were not national.
+
+Our friend and host was Mr. Baillie Paton. I believe that it is to his
+suggestion in a public meeting, that we owe the invitation which brought
+us to Scotland.
+
+By the by, I should say that "baillie" seems to correspond to what we
+call a member of the city council. Mr. Paton told us, that they had
+expected us earlier, and that the day before quite a party of friends
+met at his house to see us, among whom was good old Dr. Wardlaw.
+
+After breakfast the calling began. First, a friend of the family, with
+three beautiful children, the youngest of whom was the bearer of a
+handsomely bound album, containing a pressed collection of the sea
+mosses of the Scottish coast, very vivid and beautiful.
+
+If the bloom of English children appeared to me wonderful, I seemed to
+find the same thing intensified, if possible, in Scotland. The children
+are brilliant as pomegranate blossoms, and their vivid beauty called
+forth unceasing admiration. Nor is it merely the children of the rich,
+or of the higher classes, that are thus gifted. I have seen many a group
+of ragged urchins in the streets and closes with all the high coloring
+of Rubens, and all his fulness of outline. Why is it that we admire
+ragged children on canvas so much more than the same in nature?
+
+All this day is a confused dream to me of a dizzy and overwhelming kind.
+So many letters that it took C---- from nine in the morning till two in
+the afternoon to read and answer them in the shortest manner; letters
+from all classes of people, high and low, rich and poor, in all shades
+and styles of composition, poetry and prose; some mere outbursts of
+feeling; some invitations; some advice and suggestions; some requests
+and inquiries; some presenting books, or flowers, or fruit.
+
+Then came, in their turn, deputations from Paisley, Greenock, Dundee,
+Aberdeen, Edinburgh, and Belfast in Ireland; calls of friendship,
+invitations of all descriptions to go every where, and to see every
+thing, and to stay in so many places. One kind, venerable minister, with
+his lovely daughter, offered me a retreat in his quiet manse on the
+beautiful shores of the Clyde.
+
+For all these kindnesses, what could I give in return? There was scarce
+time for even a grateful thought on each. People have often said to me
+that it must have been an exceeding bore. For my part, I could not think
+of regarding it so. It only oppressed me with an unutterable sadness.
+
+To me there is always something interesting and beautiful about a
+universal popular excitement of a generous character, let the object of
+it be what it may. The great desiring heart of man, surging with one
+strong, sympathetic swell, even though it be to break on the beach of
+life and fall backwards, leaving the sands as barren as before, has yet
+a meaning and a power in its restlessness, with which I must deeply
+sympathize. Nor do I sympathize any the less, when the individual, who
+calls forth such an outburst, can be seen by the eye of sober sense to
+be altogether inadequate and disproportioned to it.
+
+I do not regard it as any thing against our American nation, that we are
+capable, to a very great extent, of these sudden personal enthusiasms,
+because I think that, with an individual or a community, the capability
+of being exalted into a temporary enthusiasm of self-forgetfulness, so
+far from being a fault, has in it a quality of something divine.
+
+Of course, about all such things there is a great deal which a cool
+critic could make ridiculous, but I hold to my opinion of them
+nevertheless.
+
+In the afternoon I rode out with the lord provost to see the cathedral.
+The lord provost answers to the lord mayor in England. His title and
+office in both countries continue only a year, except in cases of
+reëlection.
+
+As I saw the way to the cathedral blocked up by a throng of people, who
+had come out to see me, I could not help saying, "What went ye out for
+to see? a reed shaken with the wind?" In fact, I was so worn out, that I
+could hardly walk through the building.
+
+It is in this cathedral that part of the scene of Rob Roy is laid. This
+was my first experience in cathedrals. It was a new thing to me
+altogether, and as I walked along under the old buttresses and
+battlements without, and looked into the bewildering labyrinths of
+architecture within, I saw that, with silence and solitude to help the
+impression, the old building might become a strong part of one's inner
+life. A grave yard crowded with flat stones lies all around it. A deep
+ravine separates it from another cemetery on an opposite eminence,
+rustling with dark pines. A little brook murmurs with its slender voice
+between.
+
+On this opposite eminence the statue of John Knox, grim and strong,
+stands with its arm uplifted, as if shaking his fist at the old
+cathedral which in life he vainly endeavored to battle down.
+
+Knox was very different from Luther, in that he had no conservative
+element in him, but warred equally against accessories and essentials.
+
+At the time when the churches of Scotland were being pulled down in a
+general iconoclastic crusade, the tradesmen of Glasgow stood for the
+defence of their cathedral, and forced the reformers to content
+themselves with having the idolatrous images of saints pulled down from
+their niches and thrown into the brook, while, as Andrew Fairservice
+hath it, "The auld kirk stood as crouse as a cat when the fleas are
+caimed aff her, and a' body was alike pleased."
+
+We went all through the cathedral, which is fitted up as a Protestant
+place of worship, and has a simple and massive grandeur about it. In
+fact, to quote again from our friend Andrew, we could truly say, "Ah,
+it's a brave kirk, nane o' yere whig-malceries, and curliewurlies, and
+opensteek hems about it--a' solid, weel-jointed mason wark, that will
+stand as lang as the warld, keep hands and gun-powther aff it."
+
+I was disappointed in one thing: the painted glass, if there has ever
+been any, is almost all gone, and the glare of light through the immense
+windows is altogether too great, revealing many defects and rudenesses
+in the architecture, which would have quite another appearance in the
+colored rays through painted windows--an emblem, perhaps, of the cold,
+definite, intellectual rationalism, which has taken the place of the
+many-colored, gorgeous mysticism of former times.
+
+After having been over the church, we requested, out of respect to
+Baillie Nicol Jarvie's memory, to be driven through the Saut Market. I,
+however, was so thoroughly tired that I cannot remember any thing about
+it.
+
+I will say, by the way, that I have found out since, that nothing is so
+utterly hazardous to a person's strength as looking at cathedrals. The
+strain upon the head and eyes in looking up through these immense
+arches, and then the sepulchral chill which abides from generation to
+generation in them, their great extent, and the variety which tempts you
+to fatigue which you are not at all aware of, have overcome, as I was
+told, many before me.
+
+Mr. S. and C----, however, made amends, by their great activity and
+zeal, for all that I could not do, and I was pleased to understand from
+them, that part of the old Tolbooth, where Rob Roy and the baillie had
+their rencontre, was standing safe and sound, with stuff enough in it
+for half a dozen more stories, if any body could be found to write them.
+And Mr. S. insisted upon it, that I should not omit to notify you of
+this circumstance.
+
+Well, in consequence of all this, the next morning I was so ill as to
+need a physician, unable to see any one that called, or to hear any of
+the letters. I passed most of the day in bed, but in the evening I had
+to get up, as I had engaged to drink tea with two thousand people. Our
+kind friends Dr. and Mrs. Wardlaw came after us, and Mr. S. and I went
+in the carriage with them.
+
+Dr. Wardlaw is a venerable-looking old man; we both thought we saw a
+striking resemblance in him to our friend Dr. Woods, of Andover. He is
+still quite active in body and mind, and officiates to his congregation
+with great acceptance. I fear, however, that he is in ill health, for I
+noticed, as we were passing along to church, that he frequently laid his
+hand upon his heart, and seemed in pain. He said he hoped he should be
+able to get through the evening, but that when he was not well,
+excitement was apt to bring on a spasm about the heart; but with it all
+he seemed so cheerful, lively, and benignant, that I could not but feel
+my affections drawn towards him. Mrs. Wardlaw is a gentle, motherly
+woman, and it was a great comfort to have her with me on such an
+occasion.
+
+Our carriage stopped at last at the place. I have a dim remembrance of a
+way being made for us through a great crowd all round the house, and of
+going with Mrs. Wardlaw up into a dressing room, where I met and shook
+hands with many friendly people. Then we passed into a gallery, where a
+seat was reserved for our party, directly in front of the audience. Our
+friend Baillie Paton presided. Mrs. Wardlaw and I sat together, and
+around us many friends, chiefly ministers of the different churches, the
+ladies and gentlemen of the Glasgow Antislavery Society, and others.
+
+I told you it was a tea party; but the arrangements were altogether
+different from any I had ever seen. There were narrow tables stretched
+up and down the whole extent of the great hall, and every person had an
+appointed seat. These tables were set out with cups and saucers, cakes,
+biscuit, &c., and when the proper time came, attendants passed along
+serving tea. The arrangements were so accurate and methodical that the
+whole multitude actually took tea together, without the least apparent
+inconvenience or disturbance.
+
+There was a gentle, subdued murmur of conversation all over the house,
+the sociable clinking of teacups and teaspoons, while the entertainment
+was going on. It seemed to me such an odd idea, I could not help
+wondering what sort of a teapot that must be, in which all this tea for
+two thousand people was made. Truly, as Hadji Baba says, I think they
+must have had the "father of all teakettles" to boil it in. I could not
+help wondering if old mother Scotland had put two thousand teaspoonfuls
+of tea for the company, and one for the teapot, as is our good Yankee
+custom.
+
+We had quite a sociable time up in our gallery. Our tea table stretched
+quite across the gallery, and we drank tea "in sight of all the people."
+By _we_, I mean a great number of ministers and their wives, and ladies
+of the Antislavery Society, besides our party, and the friends whom I
+have mentioned before. All seemed to be enjoying themselves.
+
+After tea they sang a few verses of the seventy-second psalm in the old
+Scotch version.
+
+  "The people's poor ones he shall judge,
+    The needy's children save;
+  And those shall he in pieces break,
+    Who them oppressed have.
+
+  For he the needy shall preserve,
+    When he to him doth call;
+  The poor, also, and him that hath
+    No help of man at all.
+
+  Both from deceit and violence
+    Their soul he shall set free;
+  And in his sight right precious
+    And dear their blood shall be.
+
+  Now blessed be the Lord, our God,
+    The God of Israel,
+  For he alone doth wondrous works,
+    In glory that excel.
+
+  And blessed be his glorious name
+    To all eternity;
+  The whole earth let his glory fill:
+    Amen; so let it be."
+
+When I heard the united sound of all the voices, giving force to these
+simple and pathetic words, I thought I could see something of the reason
+why that rude old translation still holds its place in Scotland.
+
+The addresses were, many of them, very beautiful; the more so for the
+earnest and religious feeling which they manifested. That of Dr.
+Wardlaw, in particular, was full of comfort and encouragement, and
+breathed a most candid and catholic spirit. Could our friends in America
+see with what earnest warmth the religious heart of Scotland beats
+towards them, they would be willing to suffer a word of admonition from
+those to whom love gives a right to speak. As Christians, all have a
+common interest in what honors or dishonors Christianity, and an ocean
+between us does not make us less one church.
+
+Most of the speeches you will see recorded in the papers. In the course
+of the evening there was a second service of grapes, oranges, and other
+fruits, served round in the same quiet manner as the tea. On account of
+the feeble state of my health, they kindly excused me before the
+exercises of the evening were over.
+
+The next morning, at ten o'clock, we rode with a party of friends to see
+some of the _notabilia_. First, to Bothwell Castle, of old the residence
+of the Black Douglas. The name had for me the quality of enchantment. I
+cannot understand nor explain the nature of that sad yearning and
+longing with which one visits the mouldering remains of a state of
+society which one's reason wholly disapproves, and which one's calm
+sense of right would think it the greatest misfortune to have recalled;
+yet when the carriage turned under the shadow of beautiful ancient oaks,
+and Mr. S. said, "There, we are in the grounds of the old Black Douglas
+family!" I felt every nerve shiver. I remembered the dim melodies of
+the Lady of the Lake. Bothwell's lord was the lord of this castle, whose
+beautiful ruins here adorn the banks of the Clyde.
+
+Whatever else we have or may have in America, we shall never have the
+wild, poetic beauty of these ruins. The present noble possessors are
+fully aware of their worth as objects of taste, and, therefore, with the
+greatest care are they preserved. Winding walks are cut through the
+grounds with much ingenuity, and seats or arbors are placed at every
+desirable and picturesque point of view.
+
+To the thorough-paced tourist, who wants to _do_ the proprieties in the
+shortest possible time, this arrangement is undoubtedly particularly
+satisfactory; but to the idealist, who would like to roam, and dream,
+and feel, and to come unexpectedly on the choicest points of view, it is
+rather a damper to have all his raptures prearranged and foreordained
+for him, set down in the guide book and proclaimed by the guide, even
+though it should be done with the most artistic accuracy.
+
+Nevertheless, when we came to the arbor which commanded the finest view
+of the old castle, and saw its gray, ivy-clad walls, standing forth on a
+beautiful point, round which swept the brown, dimpling waves of the
+Clyde, the indescribable sweetness, sadness, wildness of the whole scene
+would make its voice heard in our hearts. "Thy servants take pleasure in
+her dust, and favor the stones thereof," said an old Hebrew poet, who
+must have felt the inexpressibly sad beauty of a ruin. All the splendid
+phantasmagoria of chivalry and feudalism, knights, ladies, banners,
+glittering arms, sweep before us; the cry of the battle, the noise of
+the captains, and the shouting; and then in contrast this deep
+stillness, that green, clinging ivy, the gentle, rippling river, those
+weeping birches, dipping in its soft waters--all these, in their quiet
+loveliness, speak of something more imperishable than brute force.
+
+The ivy on the walls now displays a trunk in some places as large as a
+man's body. In the days of old Archibald the Grim, I suppose that ivy
+was a little, weak twig, which, if he ever noticed, he must have thought
+the feeblest and slightest of all things; yet Archibald has gone back to
+dust, and the ivy is still growing on. Such force is there in gentle
+things.
+
+I have often been dissatisfied with the admiration, which a poetic
+education has woven into my nature, for chivalry and feudalism; but, on
+a closer examination, I am convinced that there is a real and proper
+foundation for it, and that, rightly understood, this poetic admiration
+is not inconsistent with the spirit of Christ.
+
+For, let us consider what it is we admire in these Douglases, for
+instance, who, as represented by Scott, are perhaps as good exponents of
+the idea as any. Was it their hardness, their cruelty, their hastiness
+to take offence, their fondness for blood and murder? All these, by and
+of themselves, are simply disgusting. What, then, do we admire? Their
+courage, their fortitude, their scorn of lying and dissimulation, their
+high sense of personal honor, which led them to feel themselves the
+protectors of the weak, and to disdain to take advantage of unequal odds
+against an enemy. If we read the book of Isaiah, we shall see that some
+of the most striking representations of God appeal to the very same
+principles of our nature.
+
+The fact is, there can be no reliable character which has not its basis
+in these strong qualities. The beautiful must ever rest in the arms of
+the sublime. The gentle needs the strong to sustain it, as much as the
+rock flowers need rocks to grow on, or yonder ivy the rugged wall which
+it embraces. When we are admiring these things, therefore, we are only
+admiring some sparkles and glimmers of that which is divine, and so
+coming nearer to Him in whom all fulness dwells.
+
+After admiring at a distance, we strolled through the ruins themselves.
+Do you remember, in the Lady of the Lake, where the exiled Douglas,
+recalling to his daughter the images of his former splendor, says,--
+
+  "When Blantyre hymned, her holiest lays,
+  And Bothwell's walls flung back the praise"?
+
+These lines came forcibly to my mind, when I saw the mouldering ruins of
+Blantyre priory rising exactly opposite to the castle, on the other side
+of the Clyde.
+
+The banks of the River Clyde, where we walked, were thick set with
+Portuguese laurel, which I have before mentioned as similar to our
+rhododendron. I here noticed a fact with regard to the ivy which had
+often puzzled me; and that is, the different shapes of its leaves in the
+different stages of its growth. The young ivy has this leaf; but when it
+has become more than a century old every trace and indentation melts
+away, and it assumes this form, which I found afterwards to be the
+invariable shape of all the oldest ivy, in all the ruins of Europe which
+I explored.
+
+This ivy, like the spider, takes hold with her hands in kings' palaces,
+as every twig is furnished with innumerable little clinging fingers, by
+which it draws itself close, as it were, to the very heart of the old
+rough stone.
+
+Its clinging and beautiful tenacity has given rise to an abundance of
+conceits about fidelity, friendship, and woman's love, which have become
+commonplace simply from their appropriateness. It might, also, symbolize
+that higher love, unconquerable and unconquered, which has embraced this
+ruined world from age to age, silently spreading its green over the
+rents and fissures of our fallen nature, giving "beauty for ashes, and
+garments of praise for the spirit of heaviness."
+
+There is a modern mansion, where the present proprietor of the estate
+lives. It was with an emotion partaking of the sorrowful, that we heard
+that the Douglas line, as such, was extinct, and that the estate had
+passed to distant connections. I was told that the present Lord Douglas
+is a peaceful clergyman, quite a different character from old Archibald
+the Grim.
+
+The present residence is a plain mansion, standing on a beautiful lawn,
+near the old castle. The head gardener of the estate and many of the
+servants came out to meet us, with faces full of interest. The gardener
+walked about to show us the localities, and had a great deal of the
+quiet intelligence and self-respect which, I think, is characteristic of
+the laboring classes here. I noticed that on the green sweep of the
+lawn, he had set out here and there a good many daisies, as
+embellishments to the grass, and these in many places were defended by
+sticks bent over them, and that, in one place, a bank overhanging the
+stream was radiant with yellow daffodils, which appeared to have come up
+and blossomed there accidentally. I know not whether these were planted
+there, or came up of themselves.
+
+We next went to the famous Bothwell bridge, which Scott has immortalized
+in Old Mortality. We walked up and down, trying to recall the scenes of
+the battle, as there described, and were rather mortified, after we had
+all our associations comfortably located upon it, to be told that it was
+not the same bridge--it had been newly built, widened, and otherwise
+made more comfortable and convenient.
+
+Of course, this was evidently for the benefit of society, but it was
+certainly one of those cases where the poetical suffers for the
+practical. I comforted myself in my despondency, by looking over at the
+old stone piers underneath, which were indisputably the same. We drove
+now through beautiful grounds, and alighted at an elegant mansion, which
+in former days belonged to Lockhart, the son-in-law of Scott. It was in
+this house that Old Mortality was written.
+
+As I was weary, the party left me here, while they went on to see the
+Duke of Hamilton's grounds. Our kind hostess showed me into a small
+study, where she said Old Mortality was written. The window commanded a
+beautiful view of many of the localities described. Scott was as
+particular to consult for accuracy in his local descriptions as if he
+had been writing a guide book.
+
+He was in the habit of noting down in his memorandum book even names and
+characteristics of the wild flowers and grasses that grew about a place.
+When a friend once remarked to him, that he should have supposed his
+imagination could have supplied such trifles, he made an answer that is
+worth remembering by every artist--that no imagination could long
+support its freshness, that was not nourished by a constant and minute
+observation of nature.
+
+Craignethan Castle, which is the original of Tillietudlem, we were
+informed, was not far from thence. It is stated in Lockhart's Life of
+Scott, that the ruins of this castle excited in Scott such delight and
+enthusiasm, that its owner urged him to accept for his lifetime the use
+of a small habitable house, enclosed within the circuit of the walls.
+
+After the return of the party from Hamilton Park, we sat down to an
+elegant lunch, where my eye was attracted more than any thing else, by
+the splendor of the hothouse flowers which adorned the table. So far as
+I have observed, the culture of flowers, both in England and Scotland,
+is more universally an object of attention than with us. Every family in
+easy circumstances seems, as a matter of course, to have their
+greenhouse, and the flowers are brought to a degree of perfection which
+I have never seen at home.
+
+I may as well say here, that we were told by a gentleman, whose name I
+do not now remember, that this whole district had been celebrated for
+its orchards; he added, however, that since the introduction of the
+American apple into the market, its superior excellence had made many of
+these orchards almost entirely worthless. It is a curious fact, showing
+how the new world is working on the old.
+
+After taking leave of our hospitable friends, we took to our carriages
+again. As we were driving slowly through the beautiful grounds,
+admiring, as we never failed to do, their perfect cultivation, a party
+of servants appeared in sight, waving their hats and handkerchiefs, and
+cheering us as we passed. These kindly expressions from them were as
+pleasant as any we received.
+
+In the evening we had engaged to attend another _soirée_, gotten up by
+the working classes, to give admission to many who were not in
+circumstances to purchase tickets for the other. This was to me, if any
+thing, a more interesting _réunion_, because this was just the class
+whom I wished to meet. The arrangements of the entertainment were like
+those of the evening before.
+
+As I sat in the front gallery and looked over the audience with an
+intense interest, I thought they appeared on the whole very much like
+what I might have seen at home in a similar gathering. Men, women, and
+children were dressed in a style which showed both self-respect and good
+taste, and the speeches were far above mediocrity. One pale young man, a
+watchmaker, as I was told afterwards, delivered an address, which,
+though doubtless it had the promising fault of too much elaboration and
+ornament, yet I thought had passages which would do honor to any
+literary periodical whatever.
+
+There were other orators less highly finished, who yet spoke "right on,"
+in a strong, forcible, and really eloquent way, giving the grain of the
+wood without the varnish. They contended very seriously and sensibly,
+that although the working men of England and Scotland had many things to
+complain of, and many things to be reformed, yet their condition was
+world-wide different from that of the slave.
+
+One cannot read the history of the working classes in England, for the
+last fifty years, without feeling sensibly the difference between
+oppressions under a free government and slavery. So long as the working
+class of England produces orators and writers, such as it undoubtedly
+has produced; so long as it has in it that spirit of independence and
+resistance of wrong, which has shown itself more and more during the
+agitations of the last fifty years; and so as long as the law allows
+them to meet and debate, to form associations and committees, to send up
+remonstrances and petitions to government,--one can see that their case
+is essentially different from that of plantation slaves.
+
+I must say, I was struck this night with the resemblance between the
+Scotchman and the New Englander. One sees the distinctive nationality of
+a country more in the middle and laboring classes than in the higher,
+and accordingly at this meeting there was more nationality, I thought,
+than at the other.
+
+The highest class of mind in all countries loses nationality, and
+becomes universal; it is a great pity, too, because nationality is
+picturesque always. One of the greatest miracles to my mind about
+Kossuth was, that with so universal an education, and such an extensive
+range of language and thought, he was yet so distinctively a Magyar.
+
+One thing has surprised and rather disappointed us. Our enthusiasm for
+Walter Scott does not apparently meet a response in the popular breast.
+Allusions to Bannockburn and Drumclog bring down the house, but
+enthusiasm for Scott was met with comparative silence. We discussed this
+matter among ourselves, and rather wondered at it.
+
+The fact is, Scott belonged to a past, and not to the coming age. He
+beautified and adorned that which is waxing old and passing away. He
+loved and worshipped in his very soul institutions which the majority of
+the common people have felt as a restraint and a burden. One might
+naturally get a very different idea of a feudal castle by starving to
+death in the dungeon of it, than by writing sonnets on it at a
+picturesque distance. Now, we in America are so far removed from
+feudalism,--it has been a thing so much of mere song and story with us,
+and our sympathies are so unchecked by any experience of inconvenience
+or injustice in its consequences,--that we are at full liberty to
+appreciate the picturesque of it, and sometimes, when we stand
+overlooking our own beautiful scenery, to wish that we could see,
+
+  "On yon bold brow, a lordly tower;
+  In that soft vale, a lady's bower;
+  In yonder meadow, far away,
+  The turrets of a cloister gray;"
+
+when those who know by experience all the accompaniments of these
+ornaments, would have quite another impression.
+
+Nevertheless, since there are two worlds in man, the real and the ideal,
+and both have indisputably a right to be, since God made the faculties
+of both, we must feel that it is a benefaction to mankind, that Scott
+was thus raised up as the link, in the ideal world, between the present
+and the past. It is a loss to universal humanity to have the imprint of
+any phase of human life and experience entirely blotted out. Scott's
+fictions are like this beautiful ivy, with which all the ruins here are
+overgrown,--they not only adorn, but, in many cases, they actually hold
+together, and prevent the crumbling mass from falling into ruins.
+
+To-morrow we are going to have a sail on the Clyde.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER V.
+
+
+April 17.
+
+MY DEAR SISTER:--
+
+To-day a large party of us started on a small steamer, to go down the
+Clyde. It has been a very, very exciting day to us. It is so stimulating
+to be where every name is a poem. For instance, we start at the
+Broomielaw. This Broomielaw is a kind of wharf, or landing. Perhaps in
+old times it was a haugh overgrown with broom, from whence it gets its
+name; this is only my conjecture, however.
+
+We have a small steamer quite crowded with people, our excursion party
+being very numerous. In a few minutes after starting, somebody says,--
+
+"O, here's where the Kelvin enters." This starts up,--
+
+  "Let us haste to Kelvin Grove."
+
+Then soon we are coming to Dumbarton Castle, and all the tears we shed
+over Miss Porter's William Wallace seem to rise up like a many-colored
+mist about it. The highest peak of the rock is still called Wallace's
+Seat, and a part of the castle, Wallace's Tower; and in one of its
+apartments a huge two-handed sword of the hero is still shown. I
+suppose, in fact, Miss Porter's sentimental hero is about as much like
+the real William Wallace as Daniel Boone is like Sir Charles Grandison.
+Many a young lady, who has cried herself sick over Wallace in the novel,
+would have been in perfect horror if she could have seen the real man.
+Still Dumbarton Castle is not a whit the less picturesque for that. Now
+comes the Leven,--that identical Leven Water known in song,--and on the
+right is Leven Grove.
+
+"There," said somebody to me, "is the old mansion of the Earls of
+Glencairn." Quick as thought, flashed through my mind that most eloquent
+of Burns's poems, the Lament for James, Earl of Glencairn.
+
+  "The bridegroom may forget the bride
+  Was made his wedded wife yestreen;
+  The monarch may forget the crown
+  That on his head an hour hath been;
+  The mother may forget the child
+  That smiles sae sweetly on her knee;
+  But I'll remember thee, Glencairn,
+  And a' that thou hast done for me."
+
+This mansion is now the seat of Graham of Gartmor.
+
+Now we are shown the remains of old Cardross Castle, where it was said
+Robert Bruce breathed his last. And now we come near the beautiful
+grounds of Roseneath, a green, velvet-like peninsula, stretching out
+into the widening waters.
+
+"Peninsula!" said C----. "Why, Walter Scott said it was an island."
+
+Certainly, he did declare most explicitly in the person of Mr.
+Archibald, the Duke of Argyle's serving man, to Miss Dollie Dutton, when
+she insisted on going to it by land, that Roseneath was an island. It
+shows that the most accurate may be caught tripping sometimes.
+
+Of course, our heads were full of David Deans, Jeanie, and Effie, but we
+saw nothing of them. The Duke of Argyle's Italian mansion is the most
+conspicuous object.
+
+Hereupon there was considerable discussion on the present Duke of Argyle
+among the company, from which we gathered that he stood high in favor
+with the popular mind. One said that there had been an old prophecy,
+probably uttered somewhere up in the Highlands, where such things are
+indigenous, that a very good duke of Argyle was to arise having red
+hair, and that the present duke had verified the prediction by uniting
+both requisites. They say that he is quite a young man, with a small,
+slight figure, but with a great deal of energy and acuteness of mind,
+and with the generous and noble traits which have distinguished his
+house in former times. He was a pupil of Dr. Arnold, a member of the
+National Scotch Kirk, and generally understood to be a serious and
+religious man. He is one of the noblemen who have been willing to come
+forward and make use of his education and talent in the way of popular
+lectures at lyceums and athenæums; as have also the Duke of Newcastle,
+the Earl of Carlisle, and some others. So the world goes on. I must
+think, with all deference to poetry, that it is much better to deliver a
+lyceum lecture than to head a clan in battle; though I suppose, a
+century and a half ago, had the thing been predicted to McCallummore's
+old harper, he would have been greatly at a loss to comprehend the
+nature of the transaction.
+
+Somewhere about here, I was presented, by his own request, to a
+broad-shouldered Scotch farmer, who stood some six feet two, and who
+paid me the compliment to say, that he had read my book, and that he
+would walk six miles to see me any day. Such a flattering evidence of
+discriminating taste, of course, disposed my heart towards him; but when
+I went up and put my hand into his great prairie of a palm, I was as a
+grasshopper in my own eyes. I inquired who he was, and was told he was
+one of the Duke of Argyle's farmers. I thought to myself, if all the
+duke's farmers were of this pattern, that he might be able to speak to
+the enemy in the gates to some purpose.
+
+Roseneath occupies the ground between the Gare Loch and Loch Long. The
+Gare Loch is the name given to a bay formed by the River Clyde, here
+stretching itself out like a lake. Here we landed and went on shore,
+passing along the sides of the loch, in the little village of Row.
+
+As we were walking along a carriage came up after us, in which were two
+ladies. A bunch of primroses, thrown from this carriage, fell at my
+feet. I picked it up, and then the carriage stopped, and the ladies
+requested to know if I was Mrs. Stowe. On answering in the affirmative,
+they urged me so earnestly to come under their roof and take some
+refreshment, that I began to remember, what I had partly lost sight of,
+that I was very tired; so, while the rest of the party walked on to get
+a distant view of Ben Lomond, Mr. S. and I suffered ourselves to be
+taken into the carriage of our unknown friends, and carried up to a
+charming little Italian villa, which stood, surrounded by flower gardens
+and pleasure grounds, at the head of the loch. We were ushered into a
+most comfortable parlor, where a long window, made of one clear unbroken
+sheet of plate glass, gave a perfect view of the loch with all its woody
+shores, with Roseneath Castle in the distance. My good hostesses
+literally overwhelmed me with kindness; but as there was nothing I
+really needed so much as a little quiet rest, they took me to a cozy
+bedroom, of which they gave me the freedom, for the present. Does not
+every traveller know what a luxury it is to shut one's eyes sometimes?
+The chamber, which is called "Peace," is now, as it was in Christian's
+days, one of the best things that Charity or Piety could offer to the
+pilgrim. Here I got a little brush from the wings of dewy-feathered
+sleep.
+
+After a while our party came back, and we had to be moving. My kind
+friends expressed so much joy at having met me, that it was really
+almost embarrassing. They told me that they, being confined to the house
+by ill health, and one of them by lameness, had had no hope of ever
+seeing me, and that this meeting seemed a wonderful gift of Providence.
+They bade me take courage and hope, for they felt assured that the Lord
+would yet entirely make an end of slavery through the world.
+
+It was concluded, after we left here, that, instead of returning by the
+boat, we should take carriage and ride home along the banks of the
+river. In our carriage were Mr. S. and myself, Dr. Robson and Lady
+Anderson. About this time I commenced my first essay towards giving
+titles, and made, as you may suppose, rather an odd piece of work of it,
+generally saying "Mrs." first, and "Lady" afterwards, and then begging
+pardon. Lady Anderson laughed, and said she would give me a general
+absolution. She is a truly genial, hearty Scotch woman, and seemed to
+enter happily into the spirit of the hour.
+
+As we rode on we found that the news of our coming had spread through
+the village. People came and stood in their doors, beckoning, bowing,
+smiling, and waving their handkerchiefs, and the carriage was several
+times stopped by persons who came to offer flowers. I remember, in
+particular, a group of young girls brought to the carriage two of the
+most beautiful children I ever saw, whose little hands literally deluged
+us with flowers.
+
+At the village of Helensburgh we stopped a little while to call upon
+Mrs. Bell, the wife of Mr. Bell, the inventor of the steamboat. His
+invention in this country was about the same time of that of Fulton in
+America. Mrs. Bell came to the carriage to speak to us. She is a
+venerable woman, far advanced in years. They had prepared a lunch for
+us, and quite a number of people had come together to meet us, but our
+friends said that there was not time for us to stop.
+
+We rode through several villages after this, and met quite warm welcome.
+What pleased me was, that it was not mainly from the literary, nor the
+rich, nor the great, but the plain, common people. The butcher came out
+of his stall, and the baker from his shop, the miller, dusty with his
+flour, the blooming, comely, young mother, with her baby in her arms,
+all smiling and bowing with that hearty, intelligent, friendly look, as
+if they knew we should be glad to see them.
+
+Once, while we stopped to change horses, I, for the sake of seeing
+something more of the country, walked on. It seems the honest landlord
+and his wife were greatly disappointed at this; however, they got into
+the carriage and rode on to see me, and I shook hands with them with a
+right good will.
+
+We saw several of the clergymen, who came out to meet us, and I remember
+stopping, just to be introduced to a most delightful family who came
+out, one by one, gray-headed father and mother, with comely brothers and
+fair sisters, looking all so kindly and home-like, that I would have
+been glad to use the welcome that they gave me to their dwelling.
+
+This day has been a strange phenomenon to me. In the first place, I have
+seen in all these villages how universally the people read. I have seen
+how capable they are of a generous excitement and enthusiasm, and how
+much may be done by a work of fiction, so written as to enlist those
+sympathies which are common to all classes. Certainly, a great deal may
+be effected in this way, if God gives to any one the power, as I hope
+he will to many. The power of fictitious writing, for good as well as
+evil, is a thing which ought most seriously to be reflected on. No one
+can fail to see that in our day it is becoming a very great agency.
+
+We came home quite tired, as you may well suppose. You will not be
+surprised that the next day I found myself more disposed to keep my bed
+than to go out. I regretted it, because, being Sunday, I would like to
+have heard some of the preachers of Glasgow. I was, however, glad of one
+quiet day to recall my thoughts, for I had been whirling so rapidly from
+scene to scene, that I needed time to consider where I was; especially
+as we were to go to Edinburgh on the morrow.
+
+Towards sunset Mr. S. and I strolled out entirely alone to breathe a
+little fresh air. We walked along the banks of the Kelvin, quite down to
+its junction with the Clyde. The Kelvin Grove of the ballad is all cut
+away, and the Kelvin flows soberly between stone walls, with a footpath
+on each side, like a stream that has learned to behave itself.
+
+"There," said Mr. S., as we stood on the banks of the Clyde, now lying
+flushed and tranquil in the light of the setting sun, "over there is
+Ayrshire."
+
+"Ayrshire!" I said; "what, where Burns lived?"
+
+"Yes, there is his cottage, far down to the south, and out of sight, of
+course; and there are the bonny banks of Ayr."
+
+It seemed as if the evening air brought a kind of sigh with it. Poor
+Burns! how inseparably he has woven himself with the warp and woof of
+every Scottish association!
+
+We saw a great many children of the poor out playing--rosy, fine little
+urchins, worth, any one of them, a dozen bleached, hothouse flowers. We
+stopped to hear them talk, and it was amusing to hear the Scotch of
+Walter Scott and Burns shouted out with such a right good will. We were
+as much struck by it as an honest Yankee was in Paris by the proficiency
+of the children in speaking French.
+
+The next day we bade farewell to Glasgow, overwhelmed with kindness to
+the last, and only oppressed by the thought, how little that was
+satisfactory we were able to give in return.
+
+Again in the railroad car on our way to Edinburgh. A pleasant two hours'
+trip is this from Glasgow to Edinburgh. When the cars stopped at
+Linlithgow station, the name started us as out of a dream.
+
+There, sure enough, before our eyes, on a gentle eminence stood the
+mouldering ruins of which Scott has sung:--
+
+  "Of all the palaces so fair,
+    Built for the royal dwelling,
+  In Scotland, far beyond compare
+    Linlithgow is excelling;
+  And in its park in genial June,
+  How sweet the merry linnet's tune,
+    How blithe the blackbird's lay!
+  The wild buck's bells from thorny brake.
+  The coot dives merry on the lake,--
+  The saddest heart might pleasure take,
+    To see a scene so gay."
+
+Here was born that woman whose beauty and whose name are set in the
+strong, rough Scotch heart, as a diamond in granite. Poor Mary! When her
+father, who lay on his death bed at that time in Falkland, was told of
+her birth, he answered, "Is it so? Then God's will be done! It [the
+kingdom] came with a lass, and it will go with a lass!" With these words
+he turned his face to the wall, and died of a broken heart. Certainly,
+some people appear to be born under an evil destiny.
+
+Here, too, in Linlithgow church, tradition says that James IV. was
+warned, by a strange apparition, against that expedition to England
+which cost him his life. Scott has worked this incident up into a
+beautiful description, in the fourth canto of Marmion.
+
+The castle has a very sad and romantic appearance, standing there all
+alone as it does, looking down into the quiet lake. It is said that the
+internal architectural decorations are exceedingly rich and beautiful,
+and a resemblance has been traced between its style of ornament and that
+of Heidelberg Castle, which has been accounted for by the fact that the
+Princess Elizabeth, who was the sovereign lady of Heidelberg, spent many
+of the earlier years of her life in this place.
+
+Not far from here we caught a glimpse of the ruins of Niddrie Castle,
+where Mary spent the first night after her escape from Lochleven.
+
+The Avon here at Linlithgow is spanned by a viaduct, which is a fine
+work of art. It has twenty-five arches, which are from seventy to eighty
+feet high and fifty wide.
+
+As the cars neared Edinburgh we all exclaimed at its beauty, so worthily
+commemorated by Scott:--
+
+  "Such dusky grandeur clothes the height,
+  Where the huge castle holds its state,
+    And all the steeps slope down,
+  Whose ridgy back heaves to the sky,
+  Piled deep and massy, close and high,
+    Mine own romantic town!"
+
+Edinburgh has had an effect on the literary history of the world for the
+last fifty years, that cannot be forgotten by any one approaching her.
+The air seemed to be full of spirits of those who, no longer living,
+have woven a part of the thread of our existence. I do not know that the
+shortness of human life ever so oppressed me as it did on coming near to
+the city.
+
+At the station house the cars stopped amid a crowd of people, who had
+assembled to meet us. The lord provost met us at the door of the car,
+and presented us to the magistracy of the city, and the committees of
+the Edinburgh antislavery societies. The drab dresses and pure white
+bonnets of many Friends were conspicuous among the dense moving crowd,
+as white doves seen against a dark cloud. Mr. S. and myself, and our
+future hostess, Mrs. Wigham, entered the carriage with the lord provost,
+and away we drove, the crowd following with their shouts and cheers. I
+was inexpressibly touched and affected by this. While we were passing
+the monument of Scott, I felt an oppressive melancholy. What a moment
+life seems in the presence of the noble dead! What a momentary thing is
+art, in all its beauty! Where are all those great souls that have
+created such an atmosphere of light about Edinburgh? and how little a
+space was given them to live and to enjoy!
+
+We drove all over Edinburgh, up to the castle, to the university, to
+Holyrood, to the hospitals, and through many of the principal streets,
+amid shouts, and smiles, and greetings. Some boys amused me very much by
+their pertinacious attempts to keep up with the carriage.
+
+"Heck," says one of them, "that's _her_; see the _courls_."
+
+The various engravers, who have amused themselves by diversifying my
+face for the public, having all, with great unanimity, agreed in giving
+prominence to this point, I suppose the urchins thought they were on
+safe ground there. I certainly think I answered one good purpose that
+day, and that is, of giving the much oppressed and calumniated class,
+called boys, an opportunity to develop all the noise that was in them--a
+thing for which I think they must bless me in their remembrances.
+
+At last the carriage drove into a deep gravelled yard, and we alighted
+at a porch covered with green ivy, and found ourselves once more at
+home.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+
+MY DEAR SISTER:--
+
+You may spare your anxieties about me, for I do assure you, that if I
+were an old Sevres China jar, I could not have more careful handling
+than I do. Every body is considerate; a great deal to say, when there
+appears to be so much excitement. Every body seems to understand how
+good for nothing I am; and yet, with all this consideration, I have been
+obliged to keep my room and bed for a good part of the time. One
+agreeable feature of the matter is, it gave me an opportunity to make
+the acquaintance of the celebrated homoeopathic physician, Dr.
+Henderson, in whose experiments and experience I had taken some interest
+while in America.
+
+Of the multitudes who have called, I have seen scarcely any.
+
+Mrs. W., with whom I am staying, is a most thoughtful nurse. They are
+Friends, and nothing can be more a pattern of rational home enjoyment,
+without ostentation and without parade, than a Quaker family.
+
+Though they reject every thing in arrangement which savors of
+ostentation and worldly show, yet their homes are exquisite in point of
+comfort. They make great use of flowers and natural specimens in
+adorning their apartments, and also indulge to a chaste and moderate
+extent in engravings and works of art. So far as I have observed, they
+are all "tee-totalers;" giving, in this respect, the whole benefit of
+their example to the temperance cause.
+
+To-morrow evening is to be the great tea party here. How in the world I
+am ever to live through it, I don't know.
+
+The amount of letters we found waiting for us here in Edinburgh was, if
+possible, more appalling than in Glasgow. Among those from persons whom
+you would be interested in hearing of, I may mention, a very kind and
+beautiful one from the Duchess of Sutherland, and one also from the Earl
+of Carlisle, both desiring to make appointments for meeting us as soon
+as we come to London. Also a very kind and interesting note from the
+Rev. Mr. Kingsley and lady. I look forward with a great deal of interest
+to passing a little time with them in their rectory. Letters also from
+Mr. Binney and Mr. Sherman, two of the leading Congregational clergymen
+of London. The latter officiates at Surrey Chapel, which was established
+by Rowland Hill. Both contain invitations to us to visit them in London.
+
+As to all engagements, I am in a state of happy acquiescence, having
+resigned myself, as a very tame lion, into the hands of my keepers.
+Whenever the time comes for me to do any thing, I try to behave as well
+as I can, which, as Dr. Young says, is all that an angel could do in the
+same circumstances.
+
+As to these letters, many of them are mere outbursts of feeling; yet
+they are interesting as showing the state of the public mind. Many of
+them are on kindred topics of moral reform, in which they seem to have
+an intuitive sense that we should be interested. I am not, of course,
+able to answer them all, but C---- does, and it takes a good part of
+every day. One was from a shoemaker's wife in one of the islands, with a
+copy of very fair verses. Many have come accompanying little keepsakes
+and gifts. It seems to me rather touching and sad, that people should
+want to give me things, when I am not able to give an interview, or even
+a note, in return. C---- wrote from six to twelve o'clock, steadily,
+answering letters.
+
+April 26. Last night came off the _soirée_. The hall was handsomely
+decorated with flags in front. We went with the lord provost in his
+carriage. The getting in to the hall is quite an affair, I assure you,
+the doorway is blocked up by such a dense crowd; yet there is something
+very touching about these crowds. They open very gently and quietly, and
+they do not look at you with a rude stare, but with faces full of
+feeling and intelligence. I have seen some looks that were really
+beautiful; they go to my heart. The common people appear as if they knew
+that our hearts were with them. How else should it be, as Christians of
+America?--a country which, but for one fault, all the world has reason
+to love.
+
+We went up, as before, into a dressing room, where I was presented to
+many gentlemen and ladies. When we go in, the cheering, clapping, and
+stamping at first strikes one with a strange sensation; but then every
+body looks so heartily pleased and delighted, and there is such an
+all-pervading atmosphere of geniality and sympathy, as makes one in a
+few moments feel quite at home. After all I consider that these cheers
+and applauses, are Scotland's voice to America, a recognition of the
+brotherhood of the countries.
+
+We were arranged at this meeting much as in Glasgow. The lord provost
+presided; and in the gallery with us were distinguished men from the
+magistracy, the university, and the ministry, with their wives, besides
+the members of the antislavery societies. The lord provost, I am told,
+has been particularly efficient in all benevolent operations, especially
+those for the education of the poorer classes. He is also a zealous
+supporter of the temperance cause.
+
+Among the speakers, I was especially interested in Dr. Guthrie, who
+seems to be also a particular favorite of the public. He is a tall, thin
+man, with a kind of quaintness in his mode of expressing himself, which
+sometimes gives an air of drollery to his speaking. He is a minister of
+the Free Church, and has more particularly distinguished himself by his
+exertions in behalf of the poorer classes.
+
+One passage in his speech I will quote, for I was quite amused with it.
+It was in allusion to the retorts which had been made in Mrs. Tyler's
+letter to the ladies of England, on the defects in the old country.
+
+"I do not deny," he said, "that there are defects in our country. What I
+say of them is this--that they are incidental very much to an old
+country like our own. Dr. Simpson knows very well, and so does every
+medical man, that when a man gets old he gets very infirm, his blood
+vessels get ossified, and so on; but I shall not enter into that part of
+the subject. What is true of an old country is true of old men, and old
+women, too. I am very much disposed to say of this young nation of
+America, that their teasing us with our defects might just get the
+answer which a worthy member of the church of Scotland gave to his son,
+who was so dissatisfied with the defects in the church, that he was
+determined to go over to a younger communion. 'Ah, Sandy, Sandy, man,
+when your lum reeks as lang as ours, it will, may be, need sweeping
+too.'[J] Now, I do not deny that we need sweeping; every body knows
+that I have been singing out about sweeping for the last five years. Let
+me tell my good friends in Edinburgh, and in the country, that the
+sooner you sweep the better; for the chimney may catch fire, and reduce
+your noble fabric to ashes.
+
+"They told us in that letter about the poor needlewomen, that had to
+work sixteen hours a day. ''Tis true, and pity 'tis 'tis true.' But does
+the law compel them to work sixteen hours a day? I would like to ask the
+writer of the letter. Are they bound down to their garrets and cellars
+for sixteen hours a day? May they not go where they like, and ask better
+wages and better work? Can the slave do that? Do they tell us of our
+ragged children? I know something about ragged children. But are our
+ragged children condemned to the street? If I, or the lord provost, or
+any other benevolent man, should take one of them from the street and
+bring it to the school, dare the policeman--miscalled officer of
+justice--put his foot across the door to drag it out again to the
+street? Nobody means to defend our defects; does any man attempt to
+defend them? Were not these noble ladies and excellent women, titled and
+untitled, among the very first to seek to redress them?"
+
+I wish I could give you the strong, broad Scotch accent.
+
+The national penny offering, consisting of a thousand golden sovereigns
+on a magnificent silver salver, stood conspicuously in view of the
+audience. It has been an unsolicited offering, given in the smallest
+sums, often from the extreme poverty of the giver. The committee who
+collected it in Edinburgh and Glasgow bore witness to the willingness
+with which the very poorest contributed the offering of their sympathy.
+In one cottage they found a blind woman, and said, "Here, at least, is
+one who will feel no interest, as she cannot have read the book."
+
+"Indeed," said the old lady, "if I cannot read, my son has read it to
+me, and I've got my penny saved to give."
+
+It is to my mind extremely touching to see how the poor, in their
+poverty, can be moved to a generosity surpassing that of the rich. Nor
+do I mourn that they took it from their slender store, because I know
+that a penny given from a kindly impulse is a greater comfort and
+blessing to the poorest giver than even a penny received.
+
+As in the case of the other meeting, we came out long before the
+speeches were ended. Well, of course, I did not sleep any all night. The
+next day I felt quite miserable. Mrs. W. went with Mr. S. and myself for
+a quiet drive in her carriage.
+
+It was a beautiful, sunny day that we drove out to Craigmiller Castle,
+formerly one of the royal residences. It was here that Mary retreated
+after the murder of Rizzio, and where, the chronicler says, she was
+often heard in those days wishing that she were in her grave. It seems
+so strange to see it standing there all alone, in the midst of grassy
+fields, so silent, and cold, and solitary. I got out of the carriage and
+walked about it. The short, green grass was gemmed with daisies, and
+sheep were peacefully feeding and resting, where was once all the life
+and bustle of a court.
+
+We had no one to open the inside of the castle for us, where there are
+still some tolerably preserved rooms, but we strolled listlessly about,
+looking through the old arches, and peeping through slits and loopholes
+into the interior.
+
+The last verse of Queen Mary's lamentation seemed to be sighing in the
+air:--
+
+  "O, soon for me shall simmer's suns
+    Nae mair light up the morn;
+  Nae mair for me the autumn wind
+    Wave o'er the yellow corn.
+  But in the narrow house of death
+    Let winter round me rave,
+  And the next flowers that deck the spring
+    Bloom on my peaceful grave."
+
+Only yesterday, it seemed, since that poor heart was yearning and
+struggling, caught in the toils of this sorrowful life. How many times
+she looked on this landscape through sad eyes! I suppose just such
+little daisies grew here in the grass then, and perhaps she stooped and
+picked them, wishing, just as I do, that the pink did not grow on the
+under side of them, where it does not show. Do you know that this little
+daisy is the _gowan_ of Scotch poetry? So I was told by a "charming
+young Jessie" in Glasgow, one day when I was riding out there.
+
+The view from Craigmiller is beautiful--Auld Reekie, Arthur's Seat,
+Salisbury Crags, and far down the Frith of Forth, where we can just
+dimly see the Bass Hock, celebrated as a prison, where the Covenanters
+were immured.
+
+It was this fortress that Habakkuk Mucklewrath speaks of in his ravings,
+when he says, "Am not I Habakkuk Mucklewrath, whose name is changed to
+Magor-Missabib, because I am made a terror unto myself, and unto all
+that are around me? I heard it: when did I hear it? Was it not in the
+tower of the Bass, that overhangeth the wide, wild sea? and it howled in
+the winds, and it roared in the billows, and it screamed, and it
+whistled, and it clanged, with the screams, and the clang, and the
+whistle of the sea birds, as they floated, and flew, and dropped, and
+dived, on the bosom of the waters."
+
+These Salisbury Crags, which overlook Edinburgh, have a very peculiar
+outline; they resemble an immense elephant crouching down. We passed
+Mushats Cairn, where Jeanie Deans met Robertson; and saw Liberton, where
+Reuben Butler was a schoolmaster. Nobody doubts, I hope, the historical
+accuracy of these points.
+
+Thursday, 21st. We took cars for Aberdeen. The appropriation of old
+historical names to railroad stations often reminds me of Hood's
+whimsical lines on a possible railroad in the Holy Land. Think of having
+Bannockburn shouted by the station master, as the train runs whistling
+up to a small station house. Nothing to be seen there but broad, silent
+meadows, through which the burn wimples its way. Here was the very
+Marathon of Scotland. I suppose we know more about it from the "Scots
+wha ha' wi' Wallace bled," than we do from history; yet the real scene,
+as narrated by the historian, has a moral grandeur in it.
+
+The chronicler tells us, that when on this occasion the Scots formed
+their line of battle, and a venerable abbot passed along, holding up the
+cross before them, the whole army fell upon their knees.
+
+"These Scots will not fight," said Edward, who was reconnoitring at a
+distance. "See! they are all on their knees now to beg for mercy."
+
+"They kneel," said a lord who stood by, "but it is to God alone; trust
+me, those men will win or die."
+
+The bold lyric of Burns is but an inspired kind of version of the real
+address which Bruce is said to have made to his followers; and whoever
+reads it will see that its power lies not in appeal to brute force, but
+to the highest elements of our nature, the love of justice, the sense of
+honor, and to disinterestedness, self-sacrifice, courage unto death.
+
+These things will live and form high and imperishable elements of our
+nature, when mankind have learned to develop them in other spheres than
+that of physical force. Burns's lyric, therefore, has in it an element
+which may rouse the heart to noble endurance and devotion, even when the
+world shall learn war no more.
+
+We passed through the town of Stirling, whose castle, magnificently
+seated on a rocky throne, looks right worthy to have been the seat of
+Scotland's court, as it was for many years. It brought to our minds all
+the last scenes of the Lady of the Lake, which are laid here with a
+minuteness of local description and allusion characteristic of Scott.
+
+According to our guide book, one might find there the visible
+counterpart of every thing which he has woven into his beautiful
+fiction--"the Lady's Rock, which rang to the applause of the multitude;"
+"the Franciscan steeple, which pealed the merry festival;" "the sad and
+fatal mound," apostrophized by Douglas,--
+
+  "That oft has heard the death-axe sound
+  As on the noblest of the land,
+  Fell the stern headsman's bloody hand;"--
+
+the room in the castle, where "a Douglas by his sovereign bled;" and not
+far off the ruins of Cambuskenneth Abbey. One could not but think of the
+old days Scott has described.
+
+  "The castle gates were open flung,
+  The quivering drawbridge rocked and rung,
+  And echoed loud the flinty street
+  Beneath the coursers' clattering feet,
+  As slowly down the steep descent
+  Fair Scotland's king and nobles went,
+  While all along the crowded way
+  Was jubilee and loud huzza."
+
+The place has been long deserted as a palace; but it is one of the four
+fortresses, which, by the articles of union between Scotland and
+England, are always to be kept in repair.
+
+We passed by the town of Perth, the scene of the "Fair Maid's"
+adventures. We had received an invitation to visit it, but for want of
+time were obliged to defer it till our return to Scotland.
+
+Somewhere along here Mr. S. was quite excited by our proximity to
+Scone, the old crowning-place of the Scottish kings; however, the old
+castle is entirely demolished, and superseded by a modern mansion, the
+seat of the Earl of Mansfield.
+
+Still farther on, surrounded by dark and solemn woods, stands Glamis
+Castle, the scene of the tragedy in Macbeth. We could see but a glimpse
+of it from the road, but the very sound of the name was enough to
+stimulate our imagination. It is still an inhabited dwelling, though
+much to the regret of antiquarians and lovers of the picturesque, the
+characteristic outworks and defences of the feudal ages, which
+surrounded it, have been levelled, and velvet lawns and gravel walks
+carried to the very door. Scott, who passed a night there in 1793, while
+it was yet in its pristine condition, comments on the change mournfully,
+as undoubtedly a true lover of the past would. Albeit the grass plats
+and the gravel walks, to the eye of sense, are undoubtedly much more
+agreeable and convenient. Scott says in his Demonology, that he never
+came any where near to being overcome with a superstitious feeling,
+except twice in his life, and one was on the night when he slept in
+Glamis Castle. The poetical and the practical elements in Scott's mind
+ran together, side by side, without mixing, as evidently as the waters
+of the Alleghany and Monongahela at Pittsburg. Scarcely ever a man had
+so much relish for the supernatural, and so little faith in it. One must
+confess, however, that the most sceptical might have been overcome at
+Glamis Castle, for its appearance, by all accounts, is weird and
+strange, and ghostly enough to start the dullest imagination.
+
+On this occasion Scott says, "After a very hospitable reception from the
+late Peter Proctor, seneschal of the castle, I was conducted to my
+apartment in a distant part of the building. I must own, that when I
+heard door after door shut, after my conductor had retired, I began to
+consider myself as too far from the living, and somewhat too near the
+dead. We had passed through what is called 'the King's Room,' a vaulted
+apartment, garnished with stags' antlers and similar trophies of the
+chase, and said by tradition to be the spot of Malcolm's murder, and I
+had an idea of the vicinity of the castle chapel. In spite of the truth
+of history, the whole night scene in Macbeth's castle rushed at once
+upon my mind, and struck my imagination more forcibly than even when I
+have seen its terrors represented by the late John Kemble and his
+inimitable sister. In a word, I experienced sensations which, though not
+remarkable either for timidity or superstition, did not fail to affect
+me to the point of being disagreeable, while they were mingled at the
+same time with a strange and indescribable kind of pleasure."
+
+Externally, the building is quaint and singular enough; tall and gaunt,
+crested with innumerable little pepper box turrets and conical towers,
+like an old French chateau.
+
+Besides the tragedy of Macbeth, another story of still more melancholy
+interest is connected with it, which a pen like that of Hawthorne, might
+work up with gloomy power.
+
+In 1537 the young and beautiful Lady Glamis of this place was actually
+tried and executed for witchcraft. Only think, now! what capabilities in
+this old castle, with its gloomy pine shades, quaint architecture, and
+weird associations, with this bit of historic verity to start upon.
+
+Walter Scott says, there is in the castle a secret chamber; the entrance
+to which, by the law of the family, can be known only to three persons
+at once--the lord of the castle, his heir apparent, and any third
+person whom they might choose to take into their confidence. See, now,
+the materials which the past gives to the novelist or poet in these old
+countries. These ancient castles are standing romances, made to the
+author's hands. The castle started a talk upon Shakspeare, and how much
+of the tragedy he made up, and how much he found ready to his hand in
+tradition and history. It seems the story is all told in Holingshed's
+Chronicles; but his fertile mind has added some of the most thrilling
+touches, such as the sleep walking of Lady Macbeth. It always seemed to
+me that this tragedy had more of the melancholy majesty and power of
+the Greek than any thing modern. The striking difference is, that while
+fate was the radical element of those, free will is not less distinctly
+the basis of this. Strangely enough, while it commences with a
+supernatural oracle, there is not a trace of fatalism in it; but through
+all, a clear, distinct recognition of moral responsibility, of the power
+to resist evil, and the guilt of yielding to it. The theology of
+Shakspeare is as remarkable as his poetry. A strong and clear sense of
+man's moral responsibility and free agency, and of certain future
+retribution, runs through all his plays.
+
+I enjoyed this ride to Aberdeen more than any thing we had seen yet, the
+country is so wild and singular. In the afternoon we came in sight of
+the German Ocean. The free, bracing air from the sea, and the thought
+that it actually _was_ the German Ocean, and that over the other side
+was Norway, within a day's sail of us, gave it a strange, romantic
+charm.
+
+"Suppose we just run over to Norway," said one of us; and then came the
+idea, what we should do if we got over there, seeing none of us
+understood Norse.
+
+The whole coast along here is wild and rock-bound; occasionally long
+points jut into the sea; the blue waves sparkle and dash against them in
+little jets of foam, and the sea birds dive and scream around them.
+
+On one of these points, near the town of Stonehaven, are still seen the
+ruins of Dunottar Castle, bare and desolate, surrounded on all sides by
+the restless, moaning waves; a place justly held accursed as the scene
+of cruelties to the Covenanters, so appalling and brutal as to make the
+blood boil in the recital, even in this late day.
+
+During the reigns of Charles and James, sovereigns whom Macaulay justly
+designates as Belial and Moloch, this castle was the state prison for
+confining this noble people. In the reign of James, one hundred and
+sixty-seven prisoners, men, women, and children, for refusing the oath
+of supremacy, were arrested at their firesides: herded together like
+cattle; driven at the point of the bayonet, amid the gibes, jeers, and
+scoffs of soldiers, up to this dreary place, and thrust promiscuously
+into a dark vault in this castle; almost smothered in filth and mire; a
+prey to pestilent disease, and to every malignity which brutality could
+inflict, they died here unpitied. A few escaping down the rocks were
+recaptured, and subjected to shocking tortures.
+
+A moss-grown gravestone, in the parish churchyard of Dunottar, shows the
+last resting-place of these sufferers.
+
+Walter Scott, who visited this place, says, "The peasantry continue to
+attach to the tombs of these victims an honor which they do not render
+to more splendid mausoleums; and when they point them out to their sons,
+and narrate the fate of the sufferers, usually conclude by exhorting
+them to be ready, should the times call for it, to resist to the death
+in the cause of civil and religious liberty, like their brave
+forefathers."
+
+It is also related by Gilfillan, that a minister from this vicinity,
+having once lost his way in travelling through a distant part of
+Scotland, vainly solicited the services of a guide for some time, all
+being engaged in peat-cutting; at last one of the farmers, some of whose
+ancestors had been included among the sufferers, discovering that he
+came from this vicinity, had seen the gravestones, and could repeat the
+inscriptions, was willing to give up half a day's work to guide him on
+his way.
+
+It is well that such spots should be venerated as sacred shrines among
+the descendants of the Covenanters, to whom Scotland owes what she is,
+and all she may become.
+
+It was here that Scott first became acquainted with Robert Paterson, the
+original of Old Mortality.
+
+Leaving Stonehaven we passed, on a rising ground a little to our left,
+the house of the celebrated Barclay of Ury. It remains very much in its
+ancient condition, surrounded by a low stone wall, like the old
+fortified houses of Scotland.
+
+Barclay of Ury was an old and distinguished soldier, who had fought
+under Gustavus Adolphus in Germany, and one of the earliest converts to
+the principles of the Friends in Scotland. As a Quaker, he became an
+object of hatred and abuse at the hands of the magistracy and populace;
+but he endured all these insults and injuries with the greatest patience
+and nobleness of soul.
+
+"I find more satisfaction," he said, "as well as honor, in being thus
+insulted for my religious principles, than when, a few years ago, it was
+usual for the magistrates, as I passed the city of Aberdeen, to meet me
+on the road and conduct me to public entertainment in their hall, and
+then escort me out again, to gain my favor."
+
+Whittier has celebrated this incident in his beautiful ballad, called
+"Barclay of Ury." The son of this Barclay was the author of that Apology
+which bears his name, and is still a standard work among the Friends.
+The estate is still possessed by his descendants.
+
+A little farther along towards Aberdeen, Mr. S. seemed to amuse himself
+very much with the idea, that we were coming near to Dugald Dalgetty's
+estate of Drumthwacket, an historical remembrance which I take to be
+somewhat apocryphal.
+
+It was towards the close of the afternoon that we found ourselves
+crossing the Dee, in view of Aberdeen. My spirits were wonderfully
+elated: the grand sea scenery and fine bracing air; the noble, distant
+view of the city, rising with its harbor and shipping, all filled me
+with delight. Besides which the Dee had been enchanted for me from my
+childhood, by a wild old ballad which I used to hear sung to a Scottish
+tune, equally wild and pathetic. I repeated it to C----, and will now to
+you.
+
+  "The moon had climbed the highest hill
+    That rises o'er the banks of Dee,
+  And from her farthest summit poured
+    Her silver light o'er tower and tree,--
+
+  When Mary laid her down to sleep,
+    Her thoughts on Sandy far at sea,
+  And soft and low a voice she heard,
+    Saying, 'Mary, weep no more for me.'
+
+  She from her pillow gently raised
+    Her head, to see who there might be;
+  She saw young Sandy shivering stand,
+    With pallid cheek and hollow ee.
+
+  'O Mary dear, cold is my clay;
+    It lies beneath the stormy sea;
+  The storm, is past, and I'm at rest;
+    So, Mary, weep no more for me.'
+
+  Loud crew the cock; the vision fled;
+    No more young Sandy could she see;
+  But soft a parting whisper said,
+    'Sweet Mary, weep no more for me.'"
+
+I never saw these lines in print any where; I never knew who wrote them;
+I had only heard them sung at the fireside when a child, to a tune as
+dreamy and sweet as themselves; but they rose upon me like an
+enchantment, as I crossed the Dee, in view of that very German Ocean,
+famed for its storms and shipwrecks.
+
+In this propitious state, disposed to be pleased with every thing, our
+hearts responded warmly to the greetings of the many friends who were
+waiting for us at the station house.
+
+The lord provost received us into his carriage, and as we drove along,
+pointed out to us the various objects of interest in the beautiful town.
+Among other things, a fine old bridge across the Dee attracted our
+particular attention.
+
+We were conducted to the house of Mr. Cruikshank, a Friend, and found
+waiting for us there the thoughtful hospitality which we had ever
+experienced in all our stopping-places. A snug little quiet supper was
+laid out upon the table, of which we partook in haste, as we were
+informed that the assembly at the hall were waiting to receive us.
+
+There arrived, we found the hall crowded, and with difficulty made our
+way to the platform. Whether owing to the stimulating effect of the air
+from the ocean, or to the comparatively social aspect of the scene, or
+perhaps to both, certain it is, that we enjoyed the meeting with great
+zest. I was surrounded on the stage with blooming young ladies, one of
+whom put into my hands a beautiful bouquet, some flowers of which I have
+now dried in my album. The refreshment tables were adorned with some
+exquisite wax flowers, the work, as I was afterwards told, of a young
+lady in the place. One of the designs especially interested me. It was a
+group of water lilies resting on a mirror, which gave them the
+appearance of growing in the water.
+
+We had some very animated speaking, in which the speakers contrived to
+blend enthusiastic admiration and love for America with detestation of
+slavery.
+
+All the afternoon the beautiful coast had reminded me of the State of
+Maine, and the genius of the meeting confirmed the association. They
+seemed to me to be a plain, genial, strong, warm-hearted people, like
+those of Maine.
+
+One of the speakers concluded his address by saying that John Bull and
+Brother Jonathan, with Paddy and Sandy Scott, should they clasp hands
+together, might stand against the world; which sentiment was responded
+to with thunders of applause.
+
+It is because America, like Scotland, has stood for right against
+oppression, that the Scotch love and sympathize with her. For this
+reason do they feel it as something taken from the strength of a common
+cause, when America sides with injustice and oppression. The children of
+the Covenant and the children of the Puritans are of one blood.
+
+They presented an offering in a beautiful embroidered purse, and after
+much shaking of hands we went home, and sat down to the supper table,
+for a little more chat, before going to bed. The next morning,--as we
+had only till noon to stay in Aberdeen,--our friends, the lord provost,
+and Mr. Leslie, the architect, came immediately after breakfast to show
+us the place.
+
+The town of Aberdeen is a very fine one, and owes much of its beauty to
+the light-colored granite of which most of the houses are built. It has
+broad, clean, beautiful streets, and many very curious and interesting
+public buildings. The town exhibits that union of the hoary past with
+the bustling present which is characteristic of the old world.
+
+It has two parts, the old and the new, as unlike as L'Allegro and
+Penseroso--the new, clean, and modern; the old, mossy and dreamy. The
+old town is called Alton, and has venerable houses, standing, many of
+them, in ancient gardens. And here rises the peculiar, old, gray
+cathedral. These Scotch cathedrals have a sort of stubbed appearance,
+and look like the expression in stone of defiant, invincible resolution.
+This is of primitive granite, in the same heavy, massive style as the
+cathedral of Glasgow, but having strong individualities of its own.
+
+Whoever located the ecclesiastical buildings of England and Scotland
+certainly had an exquisite perception of natural scenery; for one
+notices that they are almost invariably placed on just that point of the
+landscape, where the poet or the artist would say they should be. These
+cathedrals, though all having a general similarity of design, seem, each
+one, to have its own personality, as much as a human being. Looking at
+nineteen of them is no compensation to you for omitting the twentieth;
+there will certainly be something new and peculiar in that.
+
+This Aberdeen Cathedral, or Cathedral of St. Machar, is situated on the
+banks of the River Don; one of those beautiful amber-brown rivers that
+color the stones and pebbles at the bottom with a yellow light, such as
+one sees in ancient pictures. Old trees wave and rustle around, and the
+building itself, though a part of it has fallen into ruins, has, in many
+parts, a wonderful clearness and sharpness of outline. I cannot describe
+these things to you; architectural terms convey no picture to the mind.
+I can only tell you of the character and impression it bears--a
+character of strong, unflinching endurance, appropriately reminding one
+of the Scotch people, whom Walter Scott compares to the native sycamore
+of their hills, "which scorns to be biased in its mode of growth, even
+by the influence of the prevailing wind, but shooting its branches with
+equal boldness in every direction, shows no weather side to the storm,
+and may be broken, but can never be bended."
+
+One reason for the sharpness and distinctness of the architectural
+preservation of this cathedral is probably that closeness of texture for
+which Aberdeen granite is remarkable. It bears marks of the hand of
+violence in many parts. The images of saints and bishops, which lie on
+their backs with clasped hands, seem to have been wofully maltreated and
+despoiled, in the fervor of those days, when people fondly thought that
+breaking down carved work was getting rid of superstition. These granite
+saints and bishops, with their mutilated fingers and broken noses, seem
+to be bearing a silent, melancholy witness against that disposition in
+human nature, which, instead of making clean the cup and platter, breaks
+them altogether.
+
+The roof of the cathedral is a splendid specimen of carving in black
+oak, wrought in panels, with leaves and inscriptions in ancient text.
+The church could once boast in other parts (so says an architectural
+work) a profusion of carved woodwork of the same character, which must
+have greatly relieved the massive plainness of the interior.
+
+In 1649, the parish minister attacked the "High Altar," a piece of the
+most splendid workmanship of any thing of the kind in Europe, and which
+had to that time remained inviolate; perhaps from the insensible
+influence of its beauty. It is said that the carpenter employed for the
+purpose was so struck with the noble workmanship, that he refused to
+touch it till the minister took the hatchet from his hand and gave the
+first blow.
+
+These men did not consider that "the leprosy lies deep within," and
+that when human nature is denied beautiful idols, it will go after ugly
+ones. There has been just as unspiritual a resting in coarse, bare, and
+disagreeable adjuncts of religion, as in beautiful and agreeable ones;
+men have worshipped Juggernaut as pertinaciously as they have Venus or
+the Graces; so that the good divine might better have aimed a sermon at
+the heart than an axe at the altar.
+
+We lingered a long time around here, and could scarcely tear ourselves
+away. We paced up and down under the old trees, looking off on the
+waters of the Don, listening to the waving branches, and falling into a
+dreamy state of mind, thought what if it were six hundred years ago! and
+we were pious simple hearted old abbots! What a fine place that would be
+to walk up and down at eventide or on a Sabbath morning, reciting the
+penitential psalms, or reading St. Augustine!
+
+I cannot get over the feeling, that the souls of the dead do somehow
+connect themselves with the places of their former habitation, and that
+the hush and thrill of spirit, which we feel in them, may be owing to
+the overshadowing presence of the invisible. St. Paul says, "We are
+compassed about with a great cloud of witnesses." How can they be
+witnesses, if they cannot see and be cognizant?
+
+We left the place by a winding walk, to go to the famous bridge of
+Balgounie, another dream-land affair, not far from here. It is a single
+gray stone arch, apparently cut from solid rock, that spans the brown
+rippling waters, where wild, overhanging banks, shadowy trees, and
+dipping wild flowers, all conspire to make a romantic picture. This
+bridge, with the river and scenery, were poetic items that went, with
+other things, to form the sensitive mind of Byron, who lived here in his
+earlier days. He has some lines about it:--
+
+  "As 'auld lang syne' brings Scotland, one and all,
+    Scotch, plaids, Scotch snoods, the blue hills and clear streams,
+  The Dee, the Don, Balgounie's brig's black wall,
+    All my boy-feelings, all my gentler dreams,
+  Of what I then dreamt clothed in their own pall,
+    Like Banquo's offspring,--floating past me seems
+  My childhood, in this childishness of mind:
+    I care not--'tis a glimpse of 'auld lang syne.'"
+
+This old bridge has a prophecy connected with it, which was repeated to
+us, and you shall have it literatim:--
+
+  "Brig of Balgounie, black's your wa',
+  Wi' a wife's ae son, and a mare's a foal,
+  Doon ye shall fa'!"
+
+The bridge was built in the time of Robert Bruce, by one Bishop Cheyne,
+of whom all that I know is, that he evidently had a good eye for the
+picturesque.
+
+After this we went to visit King's College. The tower of it is
+surmounted by a massive stone crown, which forms a very singular feature
+in every view of Aberdeen, and is said to be a perfectly unique specimen
+of architecture. This King's College is very old, being founded also by
+a bishop, as far back as the fifteenth century. It has an exquisitely
+carved roof, and carved oaken seats. We went through the library, the
+hall, and the museum. Certainly, the old, dark architecture of these
+universities must tend to form a different style of mind from our plain
+matter-of-fact college buildings.
+
+Here in Aberdeen is the veritable Marischal College, so often quoted by
+Dugald Dalgetty. We had not time to go and see it, but I can assure you
+on the authority of the guide book, that it is a magnificent specimen of
+architecture.
+
+After this, that we might not neglect the present in our zeal for the
+past, we went to the marble yards, where they work the Aberdeen granite.
+This granite, of which we have many specimens in America, is of two
+kinds, one being gray, the other of a reddish hue. It seems to differ
+from other granite in the fineness and closeness of its grain, which
+enables it to receive the most brilliant conceivable polish. I saw some
+superb columns of the red species, which were preparing to go over the
+Baltic to Riga, for an Exchange; and a sepulchral monument, which was
+going to New York. All was busy here, sawing, chipping, polishing; as
+different a scene from the gray old cathedral as could be imagined. The
+granite finds its way, I suppose, to countries which the old,
+unsophisticated abbots never dreamed of.
+
+One of the friends who had accompanied us during the morning tour was
+the celebrated architect, Mr. Leslie, whose conversation gave us all
+much enjoyment. He and Mrs. Leslie gave me a most invaluable parting
+present, to wit, four volumes of engravings, representing the "Baronial
+and Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland," illustrated by Billings. I
+cannot tell you what a mine of pleasure it has been to me. It is a proof
+edition, and the engravings are so vivid, and the drawing so fine, that
+it is nearly as good as reality. It might almost save one the trouble of
+a pilgrimage. I consider the book a kind of national poem; for
+architecture is, in its nature, poetry; especially in these old
+countries, where it weaves into itself a nation's history, and gives
+literally the image and body of the times.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+
+DEAR COUSIN:--
+
+While here in Aberdeen I received a very odd letter, so peculiar and
+curious that I will give you the benefit of it. The author appears to
+be, in his way, a kind of Christopher in his cave, or Timon of Athens. I
+omit some parts which are more expressive than agreeable. It is dated
+
+  "STONEHAVEN, N.B., Kincardineshire, }
+      57° N.W. This 21st April, 1853. }
+
+     "To MRS. HARRIET B. STOWE:--
+
+     "My dear Madam: By the time that this gets your length, the fouk o'
+     Aberdeen will be shewin ye off as a rare animal, just arrived frae
+     America; the wife that writ Uncle Tom's Cabin.
+
+     "I wad like to see ye mysel, but I canna win for want o' siller,
+     and as I thought ye might be writin a buke about the Scotch when ye
+     get hame, I hae just sent ye this bit auld key to Sawney's Cabin.
+
+     "Well then, dinna forget to speer at the Aberdeenians if it be true
+     they ance kidnappet little laddies, and selt them for slaves; that
+     they dang down the Quaker's kirkyard dyke, and houket up dead
+     Quakers out o' their graves; that the young boys at the college
+     printed a buke, and maist naebody wad buy it, and they cam out to
+     Ury, near Stonehaven, and took twelve stots frae Davie Barclay to
+     pay the printer.
+
+     "Dinna forget to speer at ----, if it was true that he flogget
+     three laddies in the beginning o' last year, for the three
+     following crimes: first, for the crime of being born of puir,
+     ignorant parents; second, for the crime of being left in
+     ignorance; and, third, for the crime of having nothing to eat.
+
+     "Dinna be telling when ye gang hame that ye rode on the Aberdeen
+     railway, made by a hundred men, who were all in the Stonehaven
+     prison for drunkenness; nor above five could sign their names.
+
+     "If the Scotch kill ye with ower feeding and making speeches, be
+     sure to send this hame to tell your fouk, that it was Queen
+     Elizabeth who made the first European law to buy and sell human
+     beings like brute beasts. She was England's glory as a Protestant,
+     and Scotland's shame as the murderer of their bonnie Mary. The auld
+     hag skulked away like a coward in the hour of death. Mary, on the
+     other hand, with calmness and dignity, repeated a Latin prayer to
+     the Great Spirit and Author of her being, and calmly resigned
+     herself into the hands of her murderers.
+
+     "In the capital of her ancient kingdom, when ye are in our country,
+     there are eight hundred women, sent to prison every year for the
+     first time. Of fifteen thousand prisoners examined in Scotland in
+     the year 1845, eight thousand could not write at all, and three
+     thousand could not read.
+
+     "At present there are about twenty thousand prisoners in Scotland.
+     In Stonehaven they are fed at about seventeen pounds each,
+     annually. The honest poor, outside the prison upon the parish roll,
+     are fed at the rate of five farthings a day, or two pounds a year.
+     The employment of the prisoners is grinding the wind, we ca' it;
+     turning the crank, in plain English. The latest improvement is the
+     streekin board; it's a whig improvement o' Lord Jonnie Russell's.
+
+     "I ken brawly ye are a curious wife, and would like to ken a' about
+     the Scotch bodies. Weel, they are a gay, ignorant, proud, drunken
+     pack; they manage to pay ilka year for whuskey one million three
+     hundred and forty-eight thousand pounds.
+
+     "But then their piety, their piety; weel, let's luke at it; hing it
+     up by the nape o' the neck, and turn it round atween our finger and
+     thumb on all sides.
+
+     "Is there one school in all Scotland where the helpless, homeless
+     poor are fed and clothed at the public expense? None.
+
+     "Is there a hame in all Scotland for the cleanly but sick servant
+     maid to go till, until health be restored? Alas! there is none.
+
+     "Is there a school in all Scotland for training ladies in the
+     higher branches of learning? None. What then is there for the women
+     of Scotland?
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     "A weel, be sure and try a cupful of Scottish Kail Broase. See, and
+     get a sup Scotch _lang milk_.
+
+     "Hand this bit line yout to the Rev. Mr. ----. Tell him to store
+     out fats nae true.
+
+     "God bless you, and set you safe hame, is the prayer of the old
+     Scotch Bachelor."
+
+I think you will agree with me, that the old testifying spirit does not
+seem to have died out in Scotland, and that the backslidings and
+abominations of the land do not want for able exponents.
+
+As the indictment runs back to the time of Charles II., to the
+persecutions of the Quakers in the days of Barclay of Ury, and brings up
+again the most modern offences, one cannot but feel that there are the
+most savory indications in it of Scotch thoroughness.
+
+Some of the questions which he wishes to have me "_speer_" at Aberdeen,
+I fear, alas! would bring but an indifferent answer even in Boston,
+which gives a high school only to boys, and allows none to girls. On one
+point, it seems to me, my friend might speer himself to advantage, and
+that is the very commendable efforts which are being made now in
+Edinburgh and Aberdeen both, in the way of educating the children of the
+poor.
+
+As this is one of the subjects which are particularly on my mind, and as
+all information which we can get upon this subject is peculiarly
+valuable to us in view of commencing efforts in America, I will abridge
+for you an account of the industrial schools of Aberdeen, published by
+the society for improving the condition of the laboring classes, in
+their paper called the Laborer's Friend.
+
+In June, 1841, it was ascertained that in Aberdeen there were two
+hundred and eighty children, under fourteen years of age, who maintained
+themselves professedly by begging, but partly by theft. The first effort
+to better the moral condition of these children brought with it the
+discovery which our philanthropists made in New York, that in order to
+do good to a starving child, we must begin by feeding him; that we must
+gain his confidence by showing him a benevolence which he can
+understand, and thus proceed gradually to the reformation of his
+spiritual nature.
+
+In 1841, therefore, some benevolent individuals in Aberdeen hired rooms
+and a teacher, and gave out notice among these poor children that they
+could there be supplied with food, work, and instruction. The general
+arrangement of the day was four hours of lessons, five hours of work,
+and three substantial meals. These meals were employed as the incitement
+to the lessons and the work, since it was made an indispensable
+condition to each meal that the child should have been present at the
+work or lessons which preceded it. This arrangement worked admirably; so
+that they reported that the attendance was more regular than at ordinary
+schools.
+
+The whole produce of the work of the children goes towards defraying the
+expense of the establishment, thus effecting several important
+purposes,--reducing the expense of the school, and teaching the
+children, practically, the value of their industry,--in procuring for
+them food and instruction, and fostering in them, from the first, a
+sound principle of self-dependence; inasmuch as they know, from the
+moment of their entering school, that they give, or pay, in return for
+their food and education, all the work they are capable of performing.
+
+The institution did not profess to clothe the children; but by the
+kindness of benevolent persons who take an interest in the school, there
+is generally a stock of old clothes on hand, from which the most
+destitute are supplied.
+
+The following is the daily routine of the school: The scholars assemble
+every morning at seven in summer, and eight in winter. The school is
+opened by reading the Scriptures, praise, and prayer, and religious
+instruction suited to their years; after which there is a lesson in
+geography, or the more ordinary facts of natural history, taught by
+means of maps and prints distributed along the walls of the school room;
+two days in the week they have a singing lesson; at nine they breakfast
+on porridge and milk, and have half an hour of play; at ten they again
+assemble in school, and are employed at work till two. At two o'clock
+they dine; usually on broth, with coarse wheaten bread, but occasionally
+on potatoes and ox-head soup, &c. The diet is very plain, but nutritious
+and abundant, and appears to suit the tastes of the pupils completely.
+It is a pleasing sight to see them assembled, with their youthful
+appetites sharpened by four hours' work, joining, at least with outward
+decorum, in asking God's blessing on the food he has provided for them,
+and most promptly availing themselves of the signal given to commence
+their dinner.
+
+From dinner till three, the time is spent in exercise or recreation,
+occasionally working in the garden; from three to four, they work either
+in the garden or in the work room; from four till seven, they are
+instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic. At seven they have
+supper of porridge and milk; and after short religious exercises, are
+dismissed to their homes at eight.
+
+On Saturday, they do not return to school after dinner; and
+occasionally, as a reward of good behavior, they accompany the teacher
+in a walk to the country or the sea coast.
+
+On Sunday, they assemble at half past eight for devotion; breakfast at
+nine; attend worship in the school room; after which they dine, and
+return home, so as, if possible, to go with their parents to church in
+the afternoon.
+
+At five they again meet, and have _Sabbath school_ instruction in Bible
+and catechism; at seven, supper; and after evening worship are
+dismissed.
+
+From this detail it will be seen that these schools differ from common
+day schools. In day schools, neither food nor employment is
+provided--teaching only is proposed, with a very little moral training.
+
+The principle on which the industrial school proceeds, of giving
+employment along with instruction--especially as that employment is
+designed at the same time, if possible, to teach a trade which may be
+afterwards available--appears of the highest value. It is a practical
+discipline--a moral training, the importance of which cannot be
+over-estimated.
+
+In a common school, too, there can be but little moral training, however
+efficiently the school may be conducted, just because there is little
+opportunity given for the development and display of individual
+character. The whole management of a school requires that the pupils be
+as speedily as possible brought to a uniform outward conduct, and thus
+an appearance of good behavior and propriety is produced within the
+school room, which is too often cast aside and forgotten the moment the
+pupils pass the threshold.
+
+The remark was once made by an experienced teacher, that for the
+purposes of moral training he valued more the time he spent with his
+pupils at their games, than that which was spent in the school room.
+
+The pecuniary value of the work done in these schools is not so great as
+was at first hoped, from the difficulty of procuring employment such as
+children so neglected could perform to advantage. The real value of the
+thing, however, they consider lies in the habits of industry and the
+sense of independence thus imparted.
+
+At the outset the managers of the school regretted extremely their want
+of ability to furnish lodgings to the children. It was thought and said
+that the homes, to which the majority of them were obliged to return
+after school hours, would deprave faster than any instruction could
+reform. Fortunately it was impossible, at the time, to provide lodging
+for the children, and thus an experience was wrought out most valuable
+to all future laborers in this field.
+
+The managers report that after six years' trial, the instances where
+evil results from the children returning home, are very rare; while
+there have been most cheering instances of substantial good being
+carried by the child, from the school, through the whole family. There
+are few parents, especially mothers, so abandoned as not to be touched
+by kindness shown to their offspring. It is the direct road to the
+mother's heart. Show kindness to her child, and she is prepared at once
+to second your efforts on its behalf. She must be debased, indeed, who
+will not listen to her child repeating its text from the Bible, or
+singing a verse of its infant hymn; and by this means the first seeds of
+a new life may be, and have been, planted in the parent's heart.
+
+In cases where parents are so utterly depraved as to make it entirely
+hopeless to reform the child at home, they have found it the best course
+to board them, two or three together, in respectable families; the
+influences of the family state being held to be essential.
+
+The success which attended the boys' school of industry soon led to the
+establishment of one for girls, conducted on the same principles; and it
+is stated that the change wrought among poor, outcast girls, by these
+means, was even more striking and gratifying than among the boys.
+
+After these schools had been some time in operation, it was discovered
+that there were still multitudes of depraved children who could not or
+did not avail themselves of these privileges. It was determined by the
+authorities of the city of Aberdeen, in conformity with the Scripture
+injunction, to go out into the highways and hedges and _compel_ them to
+come in. Under the authority of the police act they proposed to lay hold
+of the whole of the juvenile vagrants, and provide them with food and
+instruction.
+
+Instructions were given to the police, on the 19th of May, 1845, to
+convey every child found begging to the soup kitchen; and, in the course
+of the day, seventy-five were collected, of whom four only could read.
+The scene which ensued is indescribable. Confusion and uproar,
+quarrelling and fighting, language of the most hateful description, and
+the most determined rebellion against every thing like order and
+regularity, gave the gentlemen engaged in the undertaking of taming them
+the hardest day's work they had ever encountered. Still, they so far
+prevailed, that, by evening, their authority was comparatively
+established. When dismissed, the children were invited to return next
+day--informed that, of course, they could do so or not, as they pleased,
+and that, if they did, they should be fed and instructed, but that,
+whether they came or not, begging would not be tolerated. Next day, the
+_greater part_ returned. The managers felt that they had triumphed, and
+that a great field of moral usefulness was now secured to them.
+
+The class who were brought to this school were far below those who
+attend the other two institutions--low as they appeared to be when the
+schools were first opened; and the scenes of filth, disease, and misery,
+exhibited even in the school itself, were such as would speedily have
+driven from the work all merely sentimental philanthropists. Those who
+undertake this work must have sound, strong principle to influence them,
+else they will soon turn from it in disgust.
+
+The school went on prosperously; it soon excited public interest; funds
+flowed in; and, what is most gratifying, the working classes took a
+lively interest in it; and while the wealthier inhabitants of Aberdeen
+contributed during the year about one hundred and fifty pounds for its
+support, the working men collected, and handed over to the committee, no
+less than two hundred and fifty pounds.
+
+Very few children in attendance at the industrial schools have been
+convicted of any offence. The regularity of attendance is owing to the
+children receiving their food in the school; and the school hours being
+from seven in the morning till seven at night, there is little
+opportunity for the commission of crime.
+
+The experience acquired in these schools, and the connection which most
+of the managers had with the criminal courts of the city, led to the
+opening of a fourth institution--the Child's Asylum. Acting from day to
+day as judges, these gentlemen had occasionally cases brought before
+them which gave them extreme pain. Children--nay, infants--were brought
+up on criminal charges: the facts alleged against them were
+incontestably proved; and yet, in a moral sense, they could scarcely be
+held _guilty_, because, in truth, they did not know that they had done
+wrong.
+
+There were, however, great practical difficulties in the way, which
+could only be got over indirectly. The magistrate could adjourn the
+case, directing the child to be cared for in the mean time, and inquiry
+could be made as to his family and relations, as to his character, and
+the prospect of his doing better in future; and he could either be
+restored to his relations, or boarded in the house of refuge, or with a
+family, and placed at one or other of the industrial schools; the charge
+of crime still remaining against him, to be made use of at once if he
+deserted school and returned to evil courses.
+
+The great advantage sought here was to avoid stamping the child for life
+with the character of a convicted felon before he deserved it. Once thus
+brand a child in this country, and it is all but impossible for him
+ever, by future good conduct, to efface the mask. How careful ought the
+law and those who administer it to be, not rashly to impress this
+stigma on the neglected child!
+
+The Child's Asylum was opened on the 4th of December, 1846; and as a
+proof of the efficiency of the industrial schools in checking juvenile
+vagrancy and delinquency, it may be noticed that nearly a week elapsed
+before a child was brought to the asylum. When a child is apprehended by
+the police for begging, or other misdemeanor, he is conveyed to this
+institution, and his case is investigated; for which purpose the
+committee meets daily. If the child be of destitute parents, he is sent
+to one of the industrial schools; if the child of a worthless, but not
+needy, parent, efforts are made to induce the parent to fulfil his duty,
+and exercise his authority in restraining the evil habits of the child,
+by sending him to school, or otherwise removing him out of the way of
+temptation.
+
+From the 4th of December up to the 18th of March, forty-seven cases,
+several of them more than once, had been brought up and carefully
+inquired into. Most of them were disposed of in the manner now stated;
+but a few were either claimed by, or remitted to, the procurator fiscal,
+as proper objects of punishment.
+
+It is premature to say much of an institution which has existed for so
+short a time; but if the principle on which it is founded be as correct
+and sound as it appears, it must prosper and do good. There is, however,
+one great practical difficulty, which can only be removed by legislative
+enactment: there is no power at present to _detain_ the children in the
+Asylum, or to force them to attend the schools to which they have been
+Bent.
+
+Such have been the rise and progress of the four industrial schools in
+Aberdeen, including, as one of them, the Child's Asylum.
+
+All the schools are on the most catholic basis, the only qualification
+for membership being a subscription of a few shillings a year; and the
+doors are open to all who require admission, without distinction of sect
+or party.
+
+The experience, then, of Aberdeen appears to demonstrate the possibility
+of reclaiming even the most abject and depraved of our juvenile
+population at a very moderate expense. The schools have been so long in
+operation, that, if there had been anything erroneous in the principles
+or the management of them, it must ere now have appeared; and if all the
+results have been encouraging, why should not the system be extended and
+established in other places? There is nothing in it which may not easily
+be copied in any town or village of our land where it is required.
+
+I cannot help adding to this account some directions, which a very
+experienced teacher in these schools gives to those who are desirous of
+undertaking this enterprise.
+
+"1. The school rooms and appurtenances ought to be of the plainest and
+most unpretending description. This is perfectly consistent with the
+most scrupulous cleanliness and complete ventilation. In like manner,
+the food should be wholesome, substantial, and abundant, but very
+plain--such as the boys or girls may soon be able to attain, or even
+surpass, by their own exertions after leaving school.
+
+"2. The teachers must ever be of the best description, patient and
+persevering, not easily discouraged, and thoroughly versed in whatever
+branch they may have to teach; and, above all things, they must be
+persons of solid and undoubted piety--for without this qualification,
+all others will, in the end, prove worthless and unavailing.
+
+"Throughout the day, the children must ever be kept in mind that, after
+all, religion is 'the one thing needful;' that the soul is of more value
+than the body.
+
+"3. _The schools must be kept of moderate size_: from their nature this
+is absolutely necessary. It is a task of the greatest difficulty to
+manage, in a satisfactory manner, a large school of children, even of
+the higher classes, with all the advantages of careful home-training and
+superintendence; but with industrial schools it is folly to attempt it.
+
+"From eighty to one hundred scholars is the largest number that ever
+should be gathered into one institution; when they exceed this, _let
+additional schools be opened_; in other words, _increase the number, not
+the size, of the schools_. They should be put down in the localities
+most convenient for the scholars, so that distance may be no bar to
+attendance; and if circumstances permit, a garden, either at the school
+or at no very great distance, will be of great utility.
+
+"4. As soon as practicable, the children should be taught, and kept
+steadily at, some trade or other, by which they may earn their
+subsistence on leaving school; for the longer they have pursued this
+particular occupation at school, the more easily will they be able
+thereby to support themselves afterwards.
+
+"As to commencing schools in new places, the best way of proceeding is
+for a few persons, who are of one mind on the subject, to unite, advance
+from their own purses, or raise among their friends, the small sum
+necessary at the outset, get their teacher, open their school, and
+collect a few scholars, gradually extend the number, and when they have
+made some progress, then tell the public what they have been doing; ask
+them to come and see; and, if they approve, to give their money and
+support. Public meetings and eloquent speeches are excellent things for
+exciting interest and raising funds, but they are of no use in carrying
+on the every-day work of the school.
+
+"Let not the managers expect impossibilities. There will be crime and
+distress in spite of industrial schools; but they may be immensely
+reduced; and let no one be discouraged by the occasional lapse into a
+crime of a promising pupil. Such things must be while sin reigns in the
+heart of man; let them only be thereby stirred up to greater and more
+earnest exertion in their work.
+
+"Let them be most careful as to the parties whom they admit to _act_
+along with them; for unless _all_ the laborers be of one heart and mind,
+divisions must ensue, and the whole work be marred.
+
+"It is most desirable that as many persons as possible of wealth and
+influence should lend their aid in supporting these institutions.
+Patrons and subscribers should be of all ranks and denominations; but
+they must beware of interfering with the actual daily working of the
+school, which ought to be left to the unfettered energies of those who,
+by their zeal, their activity, their sterling principle, and their
+successful administration, have proved themselves every way competent to
+the task they have undertaken.
+
+"If the managers wish to carry out the good effect of their schools to
+the utmost, then they will not confine their labor to the scholars;
+_they will, through them, get access to the parents_. The good which the
+ladies of the Aberdeen Female School have already thus accomplished is
+not to be told; but let none try this work who do not experimentally
+know the value of the immortal soul."
+
+Industrial schools seem to open a bright prospect to the hitherto
+neglected outcasts of our cities; for them a new era seems to be
+commencing: they are no longer to be restrained and kept in order by the
+iron bars of the prison house, and taught morality by the scourge of the
+executioner. They are now to be treated as reasonable and immortal
+beings; and may He who is the God of the poor as well as the rich give
+his effectual blessing with them, wherever they may be established, so
+that they may be a source of joy and rejoicing to all ranks of society.
+
+Such is the result of the "speerings" recommended by my worthy
+correspondent. I have given them much at length, because they are useful
+to us in the much needed reforms commencing in our cities.
+
+As to the appalling statements about intemperance, I grieve to say that
+they are confirmed by much which must meet the eye even of the passing
+stranger. I have said before how often the natural features of this
+country reminded me of the State of Maine. Would that the beneficent law
+which has removed, to so great an extent, pauperism and crime from that
+noble state might also be given to Scotland.
+
+I suppose that the efforts for the benefit of the poorer classes in this
+city might be paralleled by efforts of a similar nature in the other
+cities of Scotland, particularly in Edinburgh, where great exertions
+have been making; but I happened to have a more full account of these in
+Aberdeen, and so give them as specimens of the whole. I must say,
+however, that in no city which I visited in Scotland did I see such
+neatness, order, and thoroughness, as in Aberdeen; and in none did there
+appear to be more gratifying evidences of prosperity and comfort among
+that class which one sees along the streets and thoroughfares.
+
+About two o'clock we started from Aberdeen among crowds of friends, to
+whom we bade farewell with real regret.
+
+Our way at first lay over the course of yesterday, along that beautiful
+sea coast--beautiful to the eye, but perilous to the navigator. They
+told us that the winds and waves raged here with an awful power. Not
+long before we came, the Duke of Sutherland, an iron steamer, was
+wrecked upon this shore. In one respect the coast of Maine has decidedly
+the advantage over this, and, indeed, of every other sea coast which I
+have ever visited; and that is in the richness of the wooding, which
+veils its picturesque points and capes in luxuriant foldings of verdure.
+
+At Stonehaven station, where we stopped a few minutes, there was quite a
+gathering of the inhabitants to exchange greetings, and afterwards at
+successive stations along the road, many a kindly face and voice made
+our journey a pleasant one.
+
+When we got into old Dundee it seemed all alive with welcome. We went in
+the carriage with the lord provost, Mr. Thoms, to his residence, where a
+party had been waiting dinner for us some time.
+
+The meeting in the evening was in a large church, densely crowded, and
+conducted much as the others had been. When they came to sing the
+closing hymn, I hoped they would sing Dundee; but they did not, and I
+fear in Scotland, as elsewhere, the characteristic national melodies are
+giving way before more modern ones.
+
+On the stage we were surrounded by many very pleasant people, with whom,
+between the services, we talked without knowing their names. The
+venerable Dr. Dick, the author of the Christian Philosopher and the
+Philosophy of the Future State, was there. Gilfillan was also present,
+and spoke. Together with their contribution to the Scottish offering,
+they presented me with quite a collection of the works of different
+writers of Dundee, beautifully bound.
+
+We came away before the exercises of the evening were finished.
+
+The next morning we had quite a large breakfast party, mostly ministers
+and their wives. Good old Dr. Dick was there, and I had an introduction
+to him, and had pleasure in speaking to him of the interest with which
+his works have been read in America. Of this fact I was told that he had
+received more substantial assurance in a comfortable sum of money
+subscribed and remitted to him by his American readers. If this be so it
+is a most commendable movement.
+
+What a pity it was, during Scott's financial embarrassments, that every
+man, woman, and child in America, who had received pleasure from his
+writings, had not subscribed something towards an offering justly due to
+him!
+
+Our host, Mr. Thoms, was one of the first to republish in Scotland
+Professor Stuart's Letters to Dr. Channing, with a preface of his own.
+He showed me Professor Stuart's letter in reply, and seemed rather
+amused that the professor directed it to the Rev. James Thom, supposing,
+of course, that so much theological zeal could not inhere in a layman.
+He also showed us many autograph letters of their former pastor, Mr.
+Cheyne, whose interesting memoirs have excited a good deal of attention
+in some circles in America.
+
+After breakfast the ladies of the Dundee Antislavery Society called, and
+then the lord provost took us in his carriage to see the city. Dundee is
+the third town of Scotland in population, and a place of great
+antiquity. Its population in 1851 was seventy-eight thousand eight
+hundred and twenty-nine, and the manufactures consist principally of
+yarns, linen, with canvas and cotton bagging, great quantities of which
+are exported to France and North and South America. There are about
+sixty spinning mills and factories in the town and neighborhood, besides
+several iron founderies and manufactories of steam engines and
+machinery.
+
+Dundee has always been a stronghold of liberty and the reformed
+religion. It is said that in the grammar school of this town William
+Wallace was educated; and here an illustrious confraternity of noblemen
+and gentry was formed, who joined to resist the tyranny of England.
+
+Here Wishart preached in the beginning of the reformation, preparatory
+to his martyrdom. Here flourished some rude historical writers, who
+devoted their talents to the downfall of Popery. Singularly enough, they
+accomplished this in part by dramatic representations, in which the
+vices and absurdities of the Papal establishment were ridiculed before
+the people. Among others, one James Wedderburn and his brother, John,
+vicar of Dundee, are mentioned as having excelled in this kind of
+composition. The same authors composed books of song, denominated "Gude
+and Godly Ballads," wherein the frauds and deceits of Popery were fully
+pointed out. A third brother of the family, being a musical genius, it
+is said, "turned the times and tenor of many profane songs into godly
+songs and hymns, whereby he stirred up the affections of many," which
+tunes were called the Psalms of Dundee. Here, perhaps, was the origin of
+"Dundee's wild warbling measures."
+
+The conjoint forces of tragedy, comedy, ballads, and music, thus brought
+to bear on the popular mind, was very great.
+
+Dundee has been a great sufferer during the various civil commotions in
+Scotland. In the time of Charles I. it stood out for the solemn league
+and covenant, for which crime the Earl of Montrose was sent against it,
+who took and burned it. It is said that he called Dundee a most
+seditious town, the securest haunt and receptacle of rebels, and a place
+that had contributed as much as any other to the rebellion. Yet
+afterwards, when Montrose was led a captive through Dundee, the
+historian observes, "It is remarkable of the town of Dundee, in which he
+lodged one night, that though it had suffered more by his army than any
+town else within the kingdom, yet were they, amongst all the rest, so
+far from exulting over him, that the whole town testified a great deal
+of sorrow for his woful condition; and there was he likewise furnished
+with clothes suitable to his birth and person."
+
+This town of Dundee was stormed by Monk and the forces of Parliament
+during the time of the commonwealth, because they had sheltered the
+fugitive Charles II., and granted him money. When taken by Monk, he
+committed a great many barbarities.
+
+It has also been once visited by the plague, and once with a seven
+years' dearth or famine.
+
+Most of these particulars I found in a History of Dundee, which formed
+one of the books presented to me.
+
+The town is beautifully situated on the Firth of Tay, which here spreads
+its waters, and the quantity of shipping indicates commercial
+prosperity.
+
+I was shown no abbeys or cathedrals, either because none ever existed,
+or because they were destroyed when the town was fired.
+
+In our rides about the city, the local recollections that our friends
+seemed to recur to with as much interest as any, were those connected
+with the queen's visit to Dundee, in 1844. The spot where she landed has
+been commemorated by the erection of a superb triumphal arch in stone.
+The provost said some of the people were quite astonished at the
+plainness of the queen's dress, having looked for something very
+dazzling and overpowering from a queen. They could scarcely believe
+their eyes, when they saw her riding by in a plain bonnet, and enveloped
+in a simple shepherd's plaid.
+
+The queen is exceedingly popular in Scotland, doubtless in part because
+she heartily appreciated the beauty of the country, and the strong and
+interesting traits of the people. She has a country residence at
+Balmorrow, where she spends a part of every year; and the impression
+seems to prevail among her Scottish subjects, that she never appears to
+feel herself more happy or more at home than in this her Highland
+dwelling. The legend is, that here she delights to throw off the
+restraints of royalty; to go about plainly dressed, like a private
+individual; to visit in the cottages of the poor; to interest herself in
+the instruction of the children; and to initiate the future heir of
+England into that practical love of the people which is the best
+qualification for a ruler.
+
+I repeat to you the things which I hear floating of the public
+characters of England, and you can attach what degree of credence you
+may think proper. As a general rule in this censorious world, I think it
+safe to suppose that the good which is commonly reported of public
+characters, if not true in the letter of its details, is at least so in
+its general spirit. The stories which are told about distinguished
+people generally run in a channel coincident with the facts of their
+character. On the other hand, with regard to evil reports, it is safe
+always to allow something for the natural propensity to detraction and
+slander, which is one of the most undoubted facts of human nature in all
+lands.
+
+We left Dundee at two o'clock, by cars, for Edinburgh. In the evening we
+attended another _soirée_ of the working men of Edinburgh. As it was
+similar in all respects to the one at Glasgow, I will not dwell upon it,
+further than to say how gratifying to me, in every respect, are
+occasions in which working men, as a class, stand out before the public.
+_They_ are to form, more and more, a new power in society, greater than
+the old power of helmet and sword, and I rejoice in every indication
+that they are learning to understand themselves.
+
+We have received letters from the working men, both in Dundee and
+Glasgow, desiring our return to attend _soirées_ in those cities.
+Nothing could give us greater pleasure, had we time and strength. No
+class of men are more vitally interested in the conflict of freedom
+against slavery than working men. The principle upon which slavery is
+founded touches every interest of theirs. If it be right that one half
+of the community should deprive the other half of education, of all
+opportunities to rise in the world, of all property rights and all
+family ties, merely to make them more convenient tools for their profit
+and luxury, then every injustice and extortion, which oppresses the
+laboring man in any country, can be equally defended.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+
+DEAR AUNT E.:--
+
+You wanted us to write about our visit to Melrose; so here you have it.
+
+On Tuesday morning Mr. S. and C---- had agreed to go back to Glasgow for
+the purpose of speaking at a temperance meeting, and as we were
+restricted for time, we were obliged to make the visit to Melrose in
+their absence, much to the regret of us all. G---- thought we would make
+a little quiet run out in the cars by ourselves, while Mr. S. and
+C---- were gone back to Glasgow.
+
+It was one of those soft, showery, April days, misty and mystical, now
+weeping and now shining, that we found ourselves whirled by the cars
+through this enchanted ground of Scotland. Almost every name we heard
+spoken along the railroad, every stream we passed, every point we looked
+at, recalled some line of Walter Scott's poetry, or some event of
+history. The thought that he was gone forever, whose genius had given
+the charm to all, seemed to settle itself down like a melancholy mist.
+To how little purpose seemed the few, short years of his life, compared
+with the capabilities of such a soul! Brilliant as his success had been,
+how was it passed like a dream! It seemed sad to think that he had not
+only passed away himself, but that almost the whole family and friendly
+circle had passed with him--not a son left to bear his name!
+
+Here we were in the region of the Ettrick, the Yarrow, and the Tweed. I
+opened the Lay of the Last Minstrel, and, as if by instinct, the first
+lines my eye fell upon were these:--
+
+  "Call it not vain: they do not err
+    Who say, that when the poet dies,
+  Mute nature mourns her worshipper,
+    And celebrates his obsequies;
+  Who say, tall cliff and cavern lone
+  For the departed bard make moan;
+  That mountains weep in crystal rill;
+  That flowers in tears of balm distil;
+  Through his loved groves that breezes sigh,
+  And oaks, in deeper groan, reply;
+  And rivers teach their rushing wave
+  To murmur dirges round his grave."
+
+"Melrose!" said the loud voice of the conductor; and starting, I looked
+up and saw quite a flourishing village, in the midst of which rose the
+old, gray, mouldering walls of the abbey. Now, this was somewhat of a
+disappointment to me. I had been somehow expecting to find the building
+standing alone in the middle of a great heath, far from all abodes of
+men, and with no companions more hilarious than the owls. However, it
+was no use complaining; the fact was, there was a village, and what was
+more, a hotel, and to this hotel we were to go to get a guide for the
+places we were to visit; for it was understood that we were to "_do_"
+Melrose, Dryburgh, and Abbotsford, all in one day. There was no time for
+sentiment; it was a business affair, that must be looked in the face
+promptly, if we meant to get through. Ejaculations and quotations of
+poetry could, of course, be thrown in, as William, of Deloraine pattered
+his prayers, while riding.
+
+We all alighted at a very comfortable hotel, and were ushered into as
+snug a little parlor as one's heart could desire.
+
+[Illustration: East Window of Melrose Abbey.]
+
+The next thing was to hire a coachman to take us, in the rain,--for the
+mist had now swelled into a rain,--through the whole appropriate round.
+I stood by and heard names which I had never heard before, except in
+song, brought into view in their commercial relations; so much for
+Abbotsford; and so much for Dryburgh; and then, if we would like to
+throw in Thomas the Rhymer's Tower, why, that would be something extra.
+
+"Thomas the Rhymer?" said one of the party, not exactly posted up. "Was
+he any thing remarkable? Well, is it worth while to go to his tower? It
+will cost something extra, and take more time."
+
+Weighed in such a sacrilegious balance, Thomas was found wanting, of
+course: the idea of driving three or four miles farther to see an old
+tower, supposed to have belonged to a man who is supposed to have
+existed and to have been carried off by a supposititious Queen of the
+Fairies into Elfland, was too absurd for reasonable people; in fact, I
+made believe myself that I did not care much about it, particularly as
+the landlady remarked, that if we did not get home by five o'clock "the
+chops might be spoiled."
+
+As we all were packed into a tight coach, the rain still pouring, I
+began to wish mute Nature would not be quite so energetic in distilling
+her tears. A few sprinkling showers, or a graceful wreath of mist, might
+be all very well; but a steady, driving rain, that obliged us to shut up
+the carriage windows, and coated them with mist so that we could not
+look out, why, I say it is enough to put out the fire of sentiment in
+any heart. We might as well have been rolled up in a bundle and carried
+through the country, for all the seeing it was possible to do under such
+circumstances. It, therefore, should be stated, that we did keep bravely
+up in our poetic zeal, which kindly Mrs. W. also reënforced, by
+distributing certain very delicate sandwiches to support the outer man.
+
+At length, the coach stopped at the entrance of Abbotsford grounds,
+where there was a cottage, out of which, due notice being given, came a
+trim, little old woman in a black gown, with pattens on; she put up her
+umbrella, and we all put up ours; the rain poured harder than ever as we
+went dripping up the gravel walk, looking much, I inly fancied, like a
+set of discomforted fowls fleeing to covert. We entered the great court
+yard, surrounded with a high wall, into which were built sundry
+fragments of curious architecture that happened to please the poet's
+fancy.
+
+I had at the moment, spite of the rain, very vividly in my mind
+Washington Irving's graceful account of his visit to Abbotsford while
+this house was yet building, and the picture which he has given of
+Walter Scott sitting before his door, humorously descanting on various
+fragments of sculpture, which lay scattered about, and which he intended
+to immortalize by incorporating into his new dwelling.
+
+Viewed as a mere speculation, or, for aught I know, as an architectural
+effort, this building may, perhaps, be counted as a mistake and a
+failure. I observe, that it is quite customary to speak of it, among
+some, as a pity that he ever undertook it. But viewed as a development
+of his inner life, as a working out in wood and stone of favorite
+fancies and cherished ideas, the building has to me a deep interest. The
+gentle-hearted poet delighted himself in it; this house was his stone
+and wood poem, as irregular, perhaps, and as contrary to any established
+rule, as his Lay of the Last Minstrel, but still wild and poetic. The
+building has this interest, that it was throughout his own conception,
+thought, and choice; that he expressed himself in every stone that was
+laid, and made it a kind of shrine, into which he wove all his treasures
+of antiquity, and where he imitated, from the beautiful, old, mouldering
+ruins of Scotland, the parts that had touched him most deeply.
+
+The walls of one room were of carved oak from the Dunfermline Abbey; the
+ceiling of another imitated from Roslin Castle; here a fireplace was
+wrought in the image of a favorite niche in Melrose; and there the
+ancient pulpit of Erskine was wrought into a wall. To him, doubtless,
+every object in the house was suggestive of poetic fancies; every
+carving and bit of tracery had its history, and was as truly an
+expression of something in the poet's mind as a verse of his poetry.
+
+A building wrought out in this way, and growing up like a bank of coral,
+may very possibly violate all the proprieties of criticism; it may
+possibly, too, violate one's ideas of mere housewifery utility; but by
+none of these rules ought such a building to be judged. We should look
+at it rather as the poet's endeavor to render outward and visible the
+dream land of his thoughts, and to create for himself a refuge from the
+cold, dull realities of life, in an architectural romance.
+
+These were thoughts which gave interest to the scene as we passed
+through the porchway, adorned with petrified stags' horns, into the long
+entrance hall of the mansion. This porch was copied from one in
+Linlithgow palace. One side of this hall was lighted by windows of
+painted glass. The floor was of black and white marble from the
+Hebrides. Round the whole cornice there was a line of coats armorial,
+richly blazoned, and the following inscription in old German text:
+
+"These be the coat armories of the clanns and chief men of name wha
+keepit the marchys of Scotland in the old tyme for the kynge. Trewe men
+war they in their tyme, and in their defence God them defendyt."
+
+There were the names of the Douglases, the Elliots, the Scotts, the
+Armstrongs, and others. I looked at this arrangement with interest,
+because I knew that Scott must have taken a particular delight in it.
+
+The fireplace, designed from a niche in Melrose Abbey, also in this
+room, and a choice bit of sculpture it is. In it was an old grate, which
+had its history also, and opposite to it the boards from the pulpit of
+Erskine were wrought into a kind of side table, or something which
+served that purpose. The spaces between the windows were decorated with
+pieces of armor, crossed swords, and stags' horns, each one of which
+doubtless had its history. On each side of the door, at the bottom of
+the hall, was a Gothic shrine, or niche, in both of which stood a figure
+in complete armor.
+
+Then we went into the drawing room; a lofty saloon, the woodwork of
+which is entirely of cedar, richly wrought; probably another of the
+author's favorite poetic fancies. It is adorned with a set of splendid
+antique ebony furniture; cabinet, chairs, and piano--the gift of George
+IV. to the poet.
+
+We went into his library; a magnificent room, on which, I suppose, the
+poet's fancy had expended itself more than any other. The roof is of
+carved oak, after models from Roslin Castle. Here, in a niche, is a
+marble bust of Scott, as we understood a present from Chantrey to the
+poet; it was one of the best and most animated representations of him I
+ever saw, and very much superior to the one under the monument in
+Edinburgh. On expressing my idea to this effect, I found I had struck
+upon a favorite notion of the good woman who showed us the
+establishment; she seemed to be an ancient servant of the house, and
+appeared to entertain a regard for the old laird scarcely less than
+idolatry. One reason why this statue is superior is, that it represents
+his noble forehead, which the Edinburgh one suffers to be concealed by
+falling hair: to cover _such_ a forehead seems scarcely less than a
+libel.
+
+The whole air of this room is fanciful and picturesque in the extreme.
+The walls are entirely filled with the bookcases, there being about
+twenty thousand volumes. A small room opens from the library, which was
+Scott's own private study. His writing table stood in the centre, with
+his inkstand on it, and before it a large, plain, black leather arm
+chair.
+
+In a glass case, I think in this room, was exhibited the suit of clothes
+he last wore; a blue coat with large metal buttons, plaid trousers, and
+broad-brimmed hat. Around the sides of this room there was a gallery of
+light tracery work; a flight of stairs led up to it, and in one corner
+of it was a door which the woman said led to the poet's bed room. One
+seemed to see in all this arrangement how snug, and cozy, and
+comfortable the poet had thus ensconced himself, to give himself up to
+his beloved labors and his poetic dreams. But there was a cold and
+desolate air of order and adjustment about it which reminds one of the
+precise and chilling arrangements of a room from which has just been
+carried out a corpse; all is silent and deserted.
+
+The house is at present the property of Scott's only surviving daughter,
+whose husband has assumed the name of Scott. We could not learn from our
+informant whether any of the family was in the house. We saw only the
+rooms which are shown to visitors, and a coldness, like that of death,
+seemed to strike to my heart from their chilly solitude.
+
+As we went out of the house we passed another company of tourists coming
+in, to whom we heard our guide commencing the same recitation, "this
+is," and "this is," &c., just as she had done to us. One thing about the
+house and grounds had disappointed me; there was not one view from a
+single window I saw that was worth any thing, in point of beauty; why a
+poet, with an eye for the beautiful, could have located a house in such
+an indifferent spot, on an estate where so many beautiful sites were at
+his command, I could not imagine.
+
+As to the external appearance of Abbotsford, it is as irregular as can
+well be imagined. There are gables, and pinnacles, and spires, and
+balconies, and buttresses any where and every where, without rhyme or
+reason; for wherever the poet wanted a balcony, he had it; or wherever
+he had a fragment of carved stone, or a bit of historic tracery, to put
+in, he made a shrine for it forthwith, without asking leave of any
+rules. This I take to be one of the main advantages of Gothic
+architecture; it is a most catholic and tolerant system, and any kind of
+eccentricity may find refuge beneath its mantle.
+
+Here and there, all over the house, are stones carved with armorial
+bearings and pious inscriptions, inserted at random wherever the poet
+fancied. Half way up the wall in one place is the door of the old
+Tolbooth at Edinburgh, with the inscription over it, "The Lord of armeis
+is my protector; blissit ar thay that trust in the Lord. 1575."
+
+A doorway at the west end of the house is composed of stones which
+formed the portal of the Tolbooth, given to Sir Walter on the pulling
+down of the building in 1817.
+
+On the east side of the house is a rude carving of a sword with the
+words, "Up with ye, sutors of Selkyrke. A.D. 1525." Another inscription,
+on the same side of the house, runs thus:--
+
+  "By night, by day, remember ay
+    The goodness of ye Lord;
+  And thank his name, whose glorious fame
+    Is spread throughout ye world.--A.C.M.D. 1516."
+
+In the yard, to the right of the doorway of the mansion, we saw the
+figure of Scott's favorite dog Maida, with a Latin inscription--
+
+  "Maidæ marmorea dormis sub imagine, Maida,
+  Ad januam domini: sit tibi terra levis."
+
+Which in our less expressive English we might render--
+
+  At thy lord's door, in slumbers light and blest,
+  Maida, beneath this marble Maida, rest:
+  Light lie the turf upon thy gentle breast.
+
+One of the most endearing traits of Scott was that sympathy and harmony
+which always existed between him and the brute creation.
+
+Poor Maida seemed cold and lonely, washed by the rain in the damp grass
+plat. How sad, yet how expressive is the scriptural phrase for
+indicating death! "He shall return to his house no more, neither shall
+his place know him any more." And this is what all our homes are coming
+to; our buying, our planting, our building, our marrying and giving in
+marriage, our genial firesides and dancing children, are all like so
+many figures passing through the magic lantern, to be put out at last in
+death.
+
+The grounds, I was told, are full of beautiful paths and seats, favorite
+walks and lounges of the poet; but the obdurate pertinacity of the rain
+compelled us to choose the very shortest path possible to the carriage.
+I picked a leaf of the Portugal laurel, which I send you.
+
+Next we were driven to Dryburgh, or rather to the banks of the Tweed,
+where a ferryman, with a small skiff waits to take passengers over.
+
+The Tweed is a clear, rippling river, with a white, pebbly bottom, just
+like our New England mountain streams. After we landed we were to walk
+to the Abbey. Our feet were damp and cold, and our boatman invited us to
+his cottage. I found him and all his family warmly interested in the
+fortunes of Uncle Tom and his friends, and for his sake they received me
+as a long-expected friend. While I was sitting by the ingleside,--that
+is, a coal grate,--warming my feet, I fell into conversation with my
+host. He and his family, I noticed, spoke English more than Scotch; he
+was an intelligent young man, in appearance and style of mind precisely
+what you might expect to meet in a cottage in Maine. He and all the
+household, even the old grandmother, had read Uncle Tom's Cabin, and
+were perfectly familiar with all its details. He told me that it had
+been universally read in the cottages in the vicinity. I judged from his
+mode of speaking, that he and his neighbors were in the habit of reading
+a great deal. I spoke of going to Dryburgh to see the grave of Scott,
+and inquired if his works were much read by the common people. He said
+that Scott was not so much a favorite with the people as Burns. I
+inquired if he took a newspaper. He said that the newspapers were kept
+at so high a price that working men were not able to take them;
+sometimes they got sight of them through clubs, or by borrowing. How
+different, thought I, from America, where a workingman would as soon
+think of going without his bread as without his newspaper!
+
+The cottages of these laboring people, of which there were a whole
+village along here, are mostly of stone, thatched with straw. This
+thatch sometimes gets almost entirely grown over with green moss. Thus
+moss-covered was the roof of the cottage where we stopped, opposite to
+Dryburgh grounds.
+
+There was about this time one of those weeping pauses in the showery
+sky, and a kind of thinning and edging away of the clouds, which gave
+hope that perhaps the sun was going to look out, and give to our
+persevering researches the countenance of his presence. This was
+particularly desirable, as the old woman, who came out with her keys to
+guide us, said she had a cold and a cough: we begged that she would not
+trouble herself to go with us at all. The fact is, with all respect to
+nice old women, and the worthy race of guides in general, they are not
+favorable to poetic meditation. We promised to be very good if she would
+let us have the key, and lock up all the gates, and bring it back; but
+no, she was faithfulness itself, and so went coughing along through the
+dripping and drowned grass to open the gates for us.
+
+This Dryburgh belongs now to the Earl of Buchan, having been bought by
+him from a family of the name of Haliburton, ancestral connections of
+Scott, who, in his autobiography, seems to lament certain mischances of
+fortune which prevented the estate from coming into his own family, and
+gave them, he said, nothing but the right of stretching their bones
+there. It seems a pity, too, because the possession of this rich, poetic
+ruin would have been a mine of wealth to Scott, far transcending the
+stateliest of modern houses.
+
+Now, if you do not remember Scott's poem, of the Eve of St. John, you
+ought to read it over; for it is, I think, the most spirited of all his
+ballads; nothing conceals the transcendent lustre and beauty of these
+compositions, but the splendor of his other literary productions. Had he
+never written any thing but these, they would have made him a name as a
+poet. As it was, I found the fanciful chime of the cadences in this
+ballad ringing through my ears. I kept saying to myself--
+
+  "The Dryburgh bells do ring,
+  And the white monks do sing
+  For Sir Richard of Coldinghame."
+
+And as I was wandering around in the labyrinth, of old, broken, mossy
+arches, I thought--
+
+  "There is a nun in Dryburgh bower
+    Ne'er looks upon the sun;
+  There is a monk in Melrose tower,
+    He speaketh word to none.
+
+  That nun who ne'er beholds the day,
+    That monk who speaks to none,
+  That nun was Smaylhome's lady gay,
+    That monk the bold Baron."
+
+It seems that there is a vault in this edifice which has had some
+superstitious legends attached to it, from having been the residence,
+about fifty years ago, of a mysterious lady, who, being under a vow
+never to behold the light of the sun, only left her cell at midnight.
+This little story, of course, gives just enough superstitious chill to
+this beautiful ruin to help the effect of the pointed arches, the
+clinging wreaths of ivy, the shadowy pines, and yew trees; in short, if
+one had not a guide waiting, who had a bad cold, if one could stroll
+here at leisure by twilight or moonlight, one might get up a
+considerable deal of the mystic and poetic.
+
+There is a part of the ruin that stands most picturesquely by itself, as
+if old Time had intended it for a monument. It is the ruin of that part
+of the chapel called St. Mary's Aisle; it stands surrounded by luxuriant
+thickets of pine and other trees, a cluster of beautiful Gothic arches
+supporting a second tier of smaller and more fanciful ones, one or two
+of which have that light touch of the Moorish in their form which gives
+such a singular and poetic effect in many of the old Gothic ruins. Out
+of these wild arches and windows wave wreaths of ivy, and slender
+harebells shake their blue pendants, looking in and out of the lattices
+like little capricious fairies. There are fragments of ruins lying on
+the ground, and the whole air of the thing is as wild, and dreamlike,
+and picturesque as the poet's fanciful heart could have desired.
+
+Underneath these arches he lies beside his wife; around him the
+representation of the two things he loved most--the wild bloom and
+beauty of nature, and the architectural memorial of by-gone history and
+art. Yet there was one thing I felt I would have had otherwise; it
+seemed to me that the flat stones of the pavement are a weight too heavy
+and too cold to be laid on the breast of a lover of nature and the
+beautiful. The green turf, springing with flowers, that lies above a
+grave, does not seem, to us so hopeless a barrier between us and what
+was warm and loving; the springing grass and daisies there seem, types
+and assurances that the mortal beneath shall put on immortality; they
+come up to us as kind messages from the peaceful dust, to say that it is
+resting in a certain hope of a glorious resurrection.
+
+On the cold flagstones, walled in by iron railings, there were no
+daisies and no moss; but I picked many of both from, the green turf
+around, which, with some sprigs of ivy from the walls, I send you.
+
+It is strange that we turn away from the grave of this man, who achieved
+to himself the most brilliant destiny that ever an author did,--raising
+himself by his own unassisted efforts to be the chosen companions of
+nobles and princes, obtaining all that heart could desire of riches and
+honor,--we turn away and say, Poor Walter Scott! How desolately touching
+is the account in Lockhart, of his dim and indistinct agony the day his
+wife was brought here to be buried! and the last part of that biography
+is the saddest history that I know; it really makes us breathe a long
+sigh of relief when we read of the lowering of the coffin into this
+vault.
+
+What force does all this give to the passage in his diary in which he
+records his estimate of life!--"What is this world? a dream within a
+dream. As we grow older, each step is an awakening. The youth awakes, as
+he thinks, from childhood; the full-grown man despises the pursuits of
+youth as visionary; the old man looks on manhood as a feverish dream.
+The grave the last sleep? No; it is the last and final awakening."
+
+It has often been remarked, that there is no particular moral purpose
+aimed at by Scott in his writings; he often speaks of it himself in his
+last days, in a tone of humility. He represents himself as having been
+employed mostly in the comparatively secondary department of giving
+innocent amusement. He often expressed, humbly and earnestly, the hope
+that he had, at least, done no harm; but I am inclined to think, that
+although moral effect was not primarily his object, yet the influence of
+his writings and whole existence on earth has been decidedly good.
+
+It is a great thing to have a mind of such power and such influence,
+whose recognitions of right and wrong, of virtue and vice, were, in most
+cases, so clear and determined. He never enlists our sympathies in favor
+of vice, by drawing those seductive pictures, in which it comes so near
+the shape and form of virtue that the mind is puzzled as to the boundary
+line. He never makes young ladies feel that they would like to marry
+corsairs, pirates, or sentimental villains of any description. The most
+objectionable thing, perhaps, about his influence, is its sympathy with
+the war spirit. A person Christianly educated can hardly read some of
+his descriptions in the Lady of the Lake and Marmion without an emotion
+of disgust, like what is excited by the same things in Homer; and as the
+world comes more and more under the influence of Christ, it will recede
+more and more from this kind of literature.
+
+Scott has been censured as being wilfully unjust to the Covenanters and
+Puritans. I think he meant really to deal fairly by them, and that what
+_he_ called fairness might seem rank injustice to those brought up to
+venerate them, as we have been. I suppose that in Old Mortality it was
+Scott's honest intention to balance the two parties about fairly, by
+putting on the Covenant side his good, steady, well-behaved hero, Mr.
+Morton, who is just as much of a Puritan as the Puritans would have been
+had they taken Sir Walter Scott's advice; that is to say, a very nice,
+sensible, moral man, who takes the Puritan side because he thinks it the
+_right_ side, but contemplates all the devotional enthusiasm and
+religious ecstasies of his associates from a merely artistic and
+pictorial point of view. The trouble was, when he got his model Puritan
+done, nobody ever knew what he was meant for; and then all the young
+ladies voted steady Henry Morton a bore, and went to falling in love
+with his Cavalier rival, Lord Evandale, and people talked as if it was a
+preconcerted arrangement of Scott, to surprise the female heart, and
+carry it over to the royalist side.
+
+The fact was, in describing Evandale he made a living, effective
+character, because he was describing something he had full sympathy
+with, and put his whole life into; but Henry Morton is a laborious
+arrangement of starch and pasteboard to produce one of those
+supposititious, just-right men, who are always the stupidest of mortals
+after they are made. As to why Scott did not describe such a character
+as the martyr Duke of Argyle, or Hampden, or Sir Harry Vane, where high
+birth, and noble breeding, and chivalrous sentiment were all united with
+intense devotional fervor, the answer is, that he could not do it; he
+had not that in him wherewith to do it; a man cannot create that of
+which he has not first had the elements in himself; and devotional
+enthusiasm is a thing which Scott never felt. Nevertheless, I believe
+that he was perfectly sincere in saying that he would, "if necessary,
+die a martyr for Christianity." He had calm, firm principle to any
+extent, but it never was kindled into fervor. He was of too calm and
+happy a temperament to sound the deepest recesses of souls torn up from
+their depths by mighty conflicts and sorrows. There are souls like the
+"alabaster vase of ointment, very precious," which shed no perfume of
+devotion because a great sorrow has never broken them. Could Scott have
+been given back to the world again after the heavy discipline of life
+had passed over him, he would have spoken otherwise of many things. What
+he vainly struggled to say to Lockhart on his death bed would have been
+a new revelation, of his soul to the world, could he have lived to
+unfold it in literature. But so it is: when we have learned to live,
+life's purpose is answered, and we die!
+
+This is the sum and substance of some conversations held while rambling
+among these scenes, going in and out of arches, climbing into nooks and
+through loopholes, picking moss and ivy, and occasionally retreating
+under the shadow of some arch, while the skies were indulging in a
+sudden burst of emotion. The poor woman who acted as our guide,
+ensconcing herself in a dry corner, stood like a literal Patience on a
+monument, waiting for us to be through; we were sorry for her, but as it
+was our first and last chance, and she would stay there, we could not
+help it.
+
+Near by the abbey is a square, modern mansion, belonging to the Earl of
+Buchan, at present untenanted. There were some black, solemn yew trees
+there, old enough to have told us a deal of history had they been
+inclined to speak; as it was, they could only drizzle.
+
+As we were walking through the yard, a bird broke out into a clear,
+sweet song.
+
+"What bird is that?" said I.
+
+"I think it is the mavis," said the guide. This brought up,--
+
+  "The mavis wild, wie mony a note,
+  Sings drowsy day to rest."
+
+And also,--
+
+  "Merry it is in wild green wood,
+  When mavis and merle are singing."
+
+A verse, by the by, dismally suggestive of contrast to this rainy day.
+
+As we came along out of the gate, walking back towards the village of
+Dryburgh, we began, to hope that the skies had fairly wept themselves
+out; at any rate the rain stopped, and the clouds wore a sulky,
+leaden-gray aspect, as if they were thinking what to do next.
+
+We saw a knot of respectable-looking laboring men at a little distance,
+conversing in a group, and now and then stealing glances at us; one of
+them at last approached and inquired if this was Mrs. Stowe, and being
+answered in the affirmative, they all said heartily, "Madam, ye're right
+welcome to Scotland." The chief speaker, then, after a little
+conversation, asked our party if we would do him the favor to step into
+his cottage near by, to take a little refreshment after our ramble; to
+which we assented with alacrity. He led the way to a neat, stone
+cottage, with a flower garden before the door, and said to a thrifty,
+rosy-cheeked woman, who met us, "Well, and what do you think, wife, if I
+have brought Mrs. Stowe and her party to take a cup of tea with us?"
+
+We were soon seated in a neat, clean kitchen, and our hostess hastened
+to put the teakettle over the grate, lamenting that she had not known of
+our coming, that she might have had a fire "ben the house," meaning by
+the phrase what we Yankees mean by "in the best room." We caught a
+glimpse of the carpet and paper of this room, when the door was opened
+to bring out a few more chairs.
+
+  "Belyve the bairns cam dropping in,"
+
+rosy-cheeked, fresh from school, with satchel and school books, to whom
+I was introduced as the mother of Topsy and Eva.
+
+"Ah," said the father, "such a time as we had, when we were reading the
+book; whiles they were greetin' and whiles in a rage."
+
+My host was quite a young-looking man, with the clear blue eye and
+glowing complexion which one so often meets here; and his wife, with her
+blooming cheeks, neat dress, and well-kept house, was evidently one of
+those fully competent
+
+  "To gar old claes look amaist as weel as new."
+
+I inquired the ages of the several children, to which the father
+answered with about as much chronological accuracy as men generally
+display in such points of family history. The gude wife, after
+correcting his figures once or twice, turned away with a somewhat
+indignant exclamation about men that didn't know their own bairns' ages,
+in which many of us, I presume, could sympathize.
+
+I must not omit to say, that a neighbor of our host had been pressed to
+come in with us; an intelligent-looking man, about fifty. In the course
+of conversation, I found that they were both masons by trade, and as the
+rain had prevented their working, they had met to spend their time in
+reading. They said they were reading a work on America; and thereat
+followed a good deal of general conversation on our country. I found
+that, like many others in this old country, they had a tie to connect
+them with the new--a son in America.
+
+One of our company, in the course of the conversation, says, "They say
+in America that the working classes of England and Scotland are not so
+well off as the slaves." The man's eye flashed. "There are many things,"
+he said, "about the working classes, which are not what they should be;
+there's room for a great deal of improvement in our condition, but," he
+added with an emphasis, "we are _no slaves!_" There was a, touch, of the
+
+  "Scots wha ha' wi' Wallace bled"
+
+about the man, as he spoke, which made the affirmation quite
+unnecessary.
+
+"But," said I, "you think the affairs of the working classes much
+improved of late years?"
+
+"O, certainly," said the other; "since the repeal of the corn laws and
+the passage of the factory bill, and this emigration to America and
+Australia, affairs have been very much altered."
+
+We asked them what they could make a day by their trade. It was much
+less, certainly, than is paid for the same labor in our country; but yet
+the air of comfort and respectability about the cottage, the
+well-clothed and well-schooled, intelligent children, spoke well for the
+result of their labors.
+
+While our conversation was carried on, the teakettle commenced singing
+most melodiously, and by a mutual system of accommodation, a neat tea
+table was spread in the midst of us, and we soon found ourselves seated,
+enjoying some delicious bread and butter, with the garniture of cheese,
+preserves, and tea. Our host before the meal craved a blessing of Him
+who had made of one blood all the families of the earth; a beautiful and
+touching allusion, I thought, between Americans and Scotchmen. Our long
+ramble in the rain had given us something of an appetite, and we did
+ample justice to the excellence of the cheer.
+
+After tea we walked on down again towards the Tweed, our host and his
+friends waiting on us to the boat. As we passed through the village of
+Dryburgh, all the inhabitants of the cottages seemed to be standing in
+their doors, bowing and smiling, and expressing their welcome in a
+gentle, kindly way, that was quite touching.
+
+As we were walking towards the Tweed, the Eildon Hill, with its three
+points, rose before us in the horizon. I thought of the words in the Lay
+of the Last Minstrel:--
+
+  "Warrior, I could say to thee,
+  The words that cleft Eildon Hill in three,
+  And bridled the Tweed with a curb of stone."
+
+I appealed to my friends if they knew any thing about the tradition; I
+thought they seemed rather reluctant to speak of it. O, there was some
+foolish story, they believed; they did not well know what it was.
+
+The picturesque age of human childhood is gone by; men and women cannot
+always be so accommodating as to believe unreasonable stories for the
+convenience of poets.
+
+At the Tweed the man with the skiff was waiting for us. In parting with
+my friend, I said, "Farewell. I hope we may meet again some time."
+
+"I am sure we shall, madam," said he; "if not here, certainly
+hereafter."
+
+After being rowed across I stopped a few moments to admire the rippling
+of the clear water over the pebbles. "I want some of these pebbles of
+the Tweed," I said, "to carry home to America." Two hearty, rosy-cheeked
+Scotch lasses on the shore soon supplied me with as many as I could
+carry.
+
+We got into our carriage, and drove up to Melrose. After a little
+negotiation with the keeper, the doors were unlocked. Just at that
+moment the sun was so gracious as to give a full look through the
+windows, and touch with streaks of gold the green, grassy floor; for the
+beautiful ruin is floored with green grass and roofed with sky: even
+poetry has not exaggerated its beauty, and could not. There is never any
+end to the charms of Gothic architecture. It is like the beauty of
+Cleopatra,--
+
+  "Age cannot wither, custom, cannot stale
+  Her infinite variety."
+
+Here is this Melrose, now, which has been berhymed, bedraggled through
+infinite guide books, and been gaped at and smoked at by dandies, and
+been called a "dear love" by pretty young ladies, and been hawked about
+as a trade article in all neighboring shops, and you know perfectly well
+that all your raptures are spoken for and expected at the door, and your
+going off in an ecstasy is a regular part of the programme; and yet,
+after all, the sad, wild, sweet beauty of the thing comes down on one
+like a cloud; even for the sake of being original you could not, in
+conscience, declare you did not admire it.
+
+We went into a minute examination with our guide, a young man, who
+seemed to have a full sense of its peculiar beauties. I must say here,
+that Walter Scott's description in the Lay of the Last Minstrel is as
+perfect in most details as if it had been written by an architect as
+well as a poet--it is a kind of glorified daguerreotype.
+
+This building was the first of the elaborate and fanciful Gothic which I
+had seen, and is said to excel in the delicacy of its carving any except
+Roslin Castle. As a specimen of the exactness of Scott's description,
+take this verse, where he speaks of the cloisters:--
+
+  "Spreading herbs and flowerets bright,
+  Glistened with the dew of night,
+  Nor herb nor floweret glistened there,
+  But were carved in the cloister arches as fair."
+
+These cloisters were covered porticoes surrounding the garden, where the
+monks walked for exercise. They are now mostly destroyed, but our guide
+showed us the remains of exquisite carvings there, in which each group
+was an imitation of some leaf or flower, such as the curly kail of
+Scotland; a leaf, by the by, as worthy of imitation as the Greek
+acanthus, the trefoil oak, and some other leaves, the names of which I
+do not remember. These Gothic artificers were lovers of nature; they
+studied at the fountain head; hence the never-dying freshness, variety,
+and originality of their conceptions.
+
+Another passage, whose architectural accuracy you feel at once, is
+this:--
+
+  "They entered now the chancel tall;
+  The darkened, roof rose high, aloof
+  On pillars lofty, light, and small:
+  The keystone that locked, each ribbed aisle
+  Was a fleur-de-lis, or a quatre-feuille;
+  The corbels were carved grotesque and grim;
+  And the pillars, with, clustered shafts so trim,
+  With, base and with capital flourished around,
+  Seemed bundles of lances which garlands had bound."
+
+The quatre-feuille here spoken of is an ornament formed by the junction
+of four leaves. The frequent recurrence of the fleur-de-lis in the
+carvings here shows traces of French hands employed in the architecture.
+In one place in the abbey there is a rude inscription, in which a French
+architect commemorates the part he has borne in constructing the
+building.
+
+These corbels are the projections from which, the arches spring, usually
+carved in some fantastic mask or face; and on these the Shakspearian
+imagination of the Gothic artists seems to have let itself loose to run
+riot: there is every variety of expression, from, the most beautiful to
+the most goblin and grotesque. One has the leer of fiendish triumph,
+with budding horns, showing too plainly his paternity; again you have
+the drooping eyelids and saintly features of some fair virgin; and then
+the gasping face of some old monk, apparently in the agonies of death,
+with his toothless gums, hollow cheeks, and sunken eyes. Other faces
+have an earthly and sensual leer; some are wrought into expressions of
+scorn and mockery, some of supplicating agony, and some of grim,
+despair.
+
+One wonders what gloomy, sarcastic, poetic, passionate mind has thus
+amused itself, recording in stone all the range of passions--saintly,
+earthly, and diabolic--on the varying human face. One fancies each
+corbel to have had its history, its archetype in nature; a thousand
+possible stories spring into one's mind. They are wrought with such a
+startling and individual definiteness, that one feels as about
+Shakspeare's characters, as if they must have had a counterpart in real
+existence. The pure, saintly nun may have been some sister, or some
+daughter, or some early love, of the artist, who in an evil hour saw the
+convent barriers rise between her and all that was loving. The fat,
+sensual face may have been a sly sarcasm on some worthy abbot, more
+eminent in flesh than spirit. The fiendish faces may have been wrought
+out of the author's own perturbed dreams.
+
+An architectural work says that one of these corbels, with an anxious
+and sinister Oriental countenance, has been made, by the guides, to
+perform duty as an authentic likeness of the wizard Michael Scott. Now,
+I must earnestly protest against stating things in that way. Why does a
+writer want to break up so laudable a poetic design in the guides? He
+would have been much better occupied in interpreting some of the
+half-defaced old inscriptions into a corroborative account. No doubt it
+_was_ Michael Scott, and looked just like him.
+
+It were a fine field for a story writer to analyze the conception and
+growth of an abbey or cathedral as it formed itself, day after day, and
+year after year, in the soul of some dreamy, impassioned workman, who
+made it the note book where he wrought out imperishably in stone all his
+observations on nature and man. I think it is this strong individualism
+of the architect in the buildings that give the never-dying charm, and
+variety to the Gothic: each Gothic building is a record of the growth,
+character, and individualities of its builder's soul; and hence no two
+can be alike.
+
+I was really disappointed to miss in the abbey the stained glass which
+gives such a lustre and glow to the poetic description. I might have
+known better; but somehow I came there fully expecting to see the
+window, where--
+
+  "Full in the midst his cross of red
+  Triumphant Michael brandished;
+  The moonbeam kissed the holy pane,
+  And threw on the pavement the bloody stain."
+
+Alas! the painted glass was all of the poet's own setting; years ago it
+was shattered by the hands of violence, and the grace of the fashion of
+it hath perished.
+
+The guide pointed to a broken fragment which commanded a view of the
+whole interior. "Sir Walter used to sit here," he said. I fancied I
+could see him sitting on the fragment, gazing around the ruin, and
+mentally restoring it to its original splendor; he brings back the
+colored light into the windows, and throws its many-hued reflections
+over the graves; he ranges the banners along around the walls, and
+rebuilds every shattered arch and aisle, till we have the picture as it
+rises on us in his book.
+
+I confess to a strong feeling of reality, when my guide took me to a
+grave where a flat, green, mossy stone, broken across the middle, is
+reputed to be the grave of Michael Scott. I felt, for the moment, verily
+persuaded that if the guide would pry up one of the stones we should see
+him there, as described:--
+
+  "His hoary beard in silver rolled,
+  He seemed some seventy winters old;
+  A palmer's amice wrapped, him round,
+  With a wrought Spanish baldric bound,
+  Like a pilgrim from beyond the sea:
+  His left hand held his book of might;
+  A silver cross was in his right;
+    The lamp was placed beside his knee:
+  High and majestic was his look,
+  At which, the fellest fiends had shook,
+  And all unruffled, was his face:
+  They trusted his soul had gotten grace."
+
+I never knew before how fervent a believer I had been in the realities
+of these things.
+
+There are two graves that I saw, which correspond to those mentioned in
+these lines:--
+
+  "And there the dying lamps did burn
+    Before thy lone and lowly urn,
+  O gallafit chief of Otterburne,
+    And thine, dark knight of Liddesdale."
+
+The Knight of Otterburne was one of the Earls Douglas, killed in a
+battle with Henry Percy, called Hotspur, in 1388. The Knight of
+Liddesdale was another Douglas, who lived in the reign of David II., and
+was called the "Flower of Chivalry." One performance of this "Flower" is
+rather characteristic of the times. It seems the king made one Ramsey
+high sheriff of Teviotdale. The Earl of Douglas chose to consider this
+as a personal affront, as he wanted the office himself. So, by way of
+exhibiting his own qualifications for administering justice, he one day
+came down on Ramsey, _vi et armis_, took him off his judgment seat,
+carried him to one of his castles, and without more words tumbled him
+and his horse into a deep dungeon, where they both starved to death.
+There's a "Flower" for you, peculiar to the good old times. Nobody could
+have doubted after this his qualifications to be high sheriff.
+
+Having looked all over the abbey from, below, I noticed a ruinous
+winding staircase; so up I went, rustling along through the ivy, which
+matted and wove itself around the stones. Soon I found myself looking
+down on the abbey from a new point of view--from a little narrow stone
+gallery, which threads the whole inside of the building. There I paced
+up and down, looking occasionally through the ivy-wreathed arches on the
+green, turfy floor below.
+
+It seems as if silence and stillness had become a real presence in these
+old places. The voice of the guide and the company beneath had a hushed
+and muffled sound; and when I rustled the ivy leaves, or, in trying to
+break off a branch, loosened some fragment of stone, the sound affected
+me with a startling distinctness. I could not but inly muse and wonder
+on the life these old monks and abbots led, shrined up here as they were
+in this lovely retirement.
+
+In ruder ages these places were the only retreat for men of a spirit too
+gentle to take force and bloodshed for their life's work; men who
+believed that pen and parchment were better than sword and steel. Here I
+suppose multitudes of them lived harmless, dreamy lives--reading old
+manuscripts, copying and illuminating new ones.
+
+It is said that this Melrose is of very ancient origin, extending back
+to the time of the Culdees, the earliest missionaries who established
+religion in Scotland, and who had a settlement in this vicinity.
+However, a royal saint, after a while, took it in hand to patronize, and
+of course the credit went to him, and from, him Scott calls it "St.
+David's lonely pile." In time a body of Cistercian monks were settled
+there.
+
+According to all accounts the abbey has raised some famous saints. We
+read of trances, illuminations, and miraculous beatifications; and of
+one abbot in particular, who exhibited the odor of sanctity so strongly
+that it is said the mere opening of his grave, at intervals, was
+sufficient to perfume the whole establishment with odors of paradise.
+Such stories apart, however, we must consider that for all the
+literature, art, and love of the beautiful, all the humanizing
+influences which hold society together, the world was for many ages
+indebted to these monastic institutions.
+
+In the reformation, this abbey was destroyed amid the general storm,
+which attacked the ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland. "Pull down
+the nest, and the rooks will fly away," was the common saying of the
+mob; and in those days a man was famous according as he had lifted up
+axes upon the carved work.
+
+Melrose was considered for many years merely a stone quarry, from which
+materials were taken for all sorts of buildings, such as constructing
+tolbooths, repairing mills and sluices; and it has been only till a
+comparatively recent period that its priceless value as an architectural
+remain has led to proper efforts for its preservation. It is now most
+carefully kept.
+
+After wandering through the inside we walked out into the old graveyard,
+to look at the outside. The yard is full of old, curious, mouldering
+gravestones; and on one of them there is an inscription sad and peculiar
+enough to have come from the heart of the architect who planned the
+abbey; it runs as follows:--
+
+  "The earth walks on the earth, glittering with gold;
+  The earth goes to the earth sooner than it wold;
+  The earth, builds on the earth, castles and towers;
+  The earth, says to the earth, All shall be ours."
+
+Here, also, we were interested in a plain marble slab, which marks the
+last resting-place of Scott's faithful Tom Purdie, his zealous factotum.
+In his diary, when he hears of the wreck of his fortunes, Scott says of
+this serving man, "Poor Tom Purdie, such news will wring your heart, and
+many a poor fellow's beside, to whom my prosperity was daily bread."
+
+One fancies again the picture described by Lockhart, the strong, lank
+frame, hard features, sunken eyes, and grizzled eyebrows, the green
+jacket, white hat, and gray trousers--the outer appointments of the
+faithful serving man. One sees Scott walking familiarly by his side,
+staying himself on Tom's shoulder, while Tom talks with glee of "_our_
+trees," and "_our_ bukes." One sees the little skirmishing, when master
+wants trees planted one way and man sees best to plant them another; and
+the magnanimity with which kindly, cross-grained Tom at last agrees, on
+reflection, to "take his honor's advice" about the management of his
+honor's own property. Here, between master and man, both freemen, is all
+that beauty of relation sometimes erroneously considered as the peculiar
+charm of slavery. Would it have made the relation any more picturesque
+and endearing had Tom been stripped of legal rights, and made liable to
+sale with the books and furniture of Abbotsford? Poor Tom is sleeping
+here very quietly, with a smooth coverlet of green grass. Over him is
+the following inscription: "Here lies the body of Thomas Purdie, wood
+forester at Abbotsford, who died 29th October, 1829, aged sixty-two
+years. Thou hast been faithful over a few things; I will make thee ruler
+over many things." Matt. xxv. 21.
+
+We walked up, and down, and about, getting the best views of the
+building. It is scarcely possible for description to give you the
+picture. The artist, in whose mind the conception of this building
+arose, was a Mozart in architecture; a plaintive and ethereal lightness,
+a fanciful quaintness, pervaded his composition. The building is not a
+large one, and it has not that air of solemn massive grandeur, that
+plain majesty, which impresses you in the cathedrals of Aberdeen and
+Glasgow. As you stand looking at the wilderness of minarets and flying
+buttresses, the multiplied shrines, and mouldings, and cornices, all
+incrusted with carving as endless in its variety as the frostwork on a
+window pane; each shrine, each pinnace, each moulding, a study by
+itself, yet each contributing, like the different strains of a harmony,
+to the general effect of the whole; it seems to you that for a thing so
+airy and spiritual to have sprung up by enchantment, and to have been
+the product of spells and fairy fingers, is no improbable account of the
+matter.
+
+Speaking of gargoyles--you are no architect, neither am I, but you may
+as well get used to this descriptive term; it means the water-spouts
+which conduct the water from the gutters at the eaves of these
+buildings, and which are carved in every grotesque and fanciful device
+that can be imagined. They are mostly goblin and fiendish faces, and
+look as if they were darting out of the church in a towering passion, or
+a fit of diabolic disgust and malice. Besides these gargoyles, there are
+in many other points of the external building representations of
+fiendish faces and figures, as if in the act of flying from the
+building, under the influence of a terrible spell: by this, as my guide
+said, was expressed the idea that the holy hymns and worship of the
+church put Satan and all his forces to rout, and made all that was evil
+flee.
+
+One remark on this building, in Billings's architectural account of it,
+interested me; and that is, that it is finished with the most
+circumstantial elegance and minuteness in those concealed portions which
+are excluded, from public view, and which can only be inspected by
+laborious climbing or groping; and he accounts for this by the idea that
+the whole carving and execution was considered as an act of solemn
+worship and adoration, in which the artist offered up his best faculties
+to the praise of the Creator.
+
+[Illustration of gargoyles]
+
+After lingering a while here, we went home to our inn or hotel. Now,
+these hotels in the small towns of England, if this is any specimen,
+are delightful affairs for travellers, they are so comfortable and
+home-like. Our snug little parlor was radiant with the light of the coal
+grate; our table stood before it, with its bright silver, white cloth,
+and delicate china cups; and then such a dish of mutton chops! My dear,
+we are all mortal, and emotions of the beautiful and sublime tend
+especially to make one hungry. We, therefore, comforted ourselves over
+the instability of earthly affairs, and the transitory nature of all
+human grandeur, by consolatory remarks on the _present_ whiteness of the
+bread, the sweetness of the butter; and as to the chops, all declared,
+with one voice, that such mutton was a thing unknown in America. I moved
+an emendation, except on the sea coast of Maine. We resolved to cherish
+the memory of our little hostess in our heart of hearts, and as we
+gathered round the cheery grate, drying our cold feet, we voted that
+poetry was a humbug, and damp, old, musty cathedrals a bore. Such are
+the inconsistencies of human nature!
+
+"Nevertheless," said I to S----, after dinner, "I am going back again
+to-night, to see that abbey by moonlight. I intend to walk the whole
+figure while I am about it."
+
+Just on the verge of twilight I stepped out, to see what the town
+afforded in the way of relics. To say the truth, my eye had been caught
+by some cunning little tubs and pails in a window, which I thought might
+be valued in the home department. I went into a shop, where an auld wife
+soon appeared, who, in reply to my inquiries, told me, that the said
+little tubs and pails were made of plum tree wood from Dryburgh Abbey,
+and, of course, partook of the sanctity of relics. She and her husband
+seemed to be driving a thriving trade in the article, and either plum
+trees must be very abundant at Dryburgh, or what there are must be
+gifted with that power of self-multiplication which inheres in the wood
+of the true Cross. I bought them in blind faith, however, suppressing
+all rationalistic doubts, as a good relic hunter should.
+
+I went up into a little room where an elderly woman professed to have
+quite a collection of the Melrose relics. Some years ago extensive
+restorations and repairs were made in the old abbey, in which Walter
+Scott took a deep interest. At that time, when the scaffolding was up
+for repairing the building, as I understood, Scott had the plaster casts
+made of different parts, which he afterwards incorporated into his own
+dwelling at Abbotsford. I said to the good woman that I had understood
+by Washington Irving's account, that Scott appropriated _bona fide_
+fragments of the building, and alluded to the account which he gives of
+the little red sandstone lion from Melrose. She repelled the idea with
+great energy, and said she had often heard Sir Walter say, that he would
+not carry off a bit of the building as big as his thumb. She showed me
+several plaster casts that she had in her possession, which were taken
+at this time. There were several corbels there; one was the head of an
+old monk, and looked as if it might have been a mask taken of his face
+the moment after death; the eyes were hollow and sunken, the cheeks
+fallen in, the mouth lying helplessly open, showing one or two
+melancholy old stumps of teeth. I wondered over this, whether it really
+was the fac-simile of some poor old Father Ambrose, or Father Francis,
+whose disconsolate look, after his death agony, had so struck the gloomy
+fancy of the artist as to lead him to immortalize him in a corbel, for a
+lasting admonition to his fat worldly brethren; for if we may trust the
+old song, these monks of Melrose had rather a suspicious reputation in
+the matter of worldly conformity. The impudent ballad says,--
+
+  "O, the monks of Melrose, they made good, kail
+    On Fridays, when they fasted;
+  They never wanted beef or ale
+    As long as their neighbors' lasted."
+
+Naughty, roistering fellows! I thought I could perceive how this poor
+Father Francis had worn his life out exhorting them to repentance, and
+given up the ghost at last in despair, and so been made at once into a
+saint and a corbel.
+
+There were fragments of tracery, of mouldings and cornices, and
+grotesque bits of architecture there, which I would have given a good
+deal to be the possessor of. Stepping into a little cottage hard by to
+speak to the guide about unlocking the gates, when we went out on our
+moonlight excursion at midnight, I caught a glimpse, in an inner
+apartment, of a splendid, large, black dog. I gave one exclamation and
+jump, and was into the room after him.
+
+"Ah," said the old man, "that was just like Sir Walter; he always had an
+eye for a dog."
+
+It gave me a kind of pain to think of him and his dogs, all lying in the
+dust together; and yet it was pleasant to hear this little remark of
+him, as if it were made by those who had often seen, and were fond of
+thinking of him. The dog's name was Coal, and he was black enough, and
+remarkable enough, to make a figure in a story--a genuine Melrose Abbey
+dog. I should not wonder if he were a descendant, in a remote degree, of
+the "mauthe doog," that supernatural beast, which Scott commemorates in
+his notes. The least touch in the world of such blood in his veins would
+be, of course, an appropriate circumstance in a dog belonging to an old
+ruined abbey.
+
+Well, I got home, and narrated my adventures to my friends, and showed
+them my reliquary purchases, and declared my strengthening intention to
+make my ghostly visit by moonlight, if there was any moon to be had that
+night, which was a doubtful possibility.
+
+In the course of the evening came in Mr. ----, who had volunteered his
+services as guide and attendant during the interesting operation.
+
+"When does the moon rise?" said one.
+
+"O, a little after eleven o'clock, I believe," said Mr. ----.
+
+Some of the party gaped portentously.
+
+"You know," said I, "Scott says we must see it by moonlight; it is one
+of the proprieties of the place, as I understand."
+
+"How exquisite that description is, of the effect of moonlight!" says
+another.
+
+"I think it probable," says Mr. ----, dryly, "that Scott never saw it by
+moonlight himself. He was a man of very regular habits, and seldom went
+out evenings."
+
+The blank amazement with which this communication was received set S----
+into an inextinguishable fit of laughter.
+
+"But do you really believe he never saw it?" said I, rather crestfallen.
+
+"Well," said the gentleman, "I have heard him charged with never having
+seen it, and he never denied it."
+
+Knowing that Scott really was as practical a man as Dr. Franklin, and as
+little disposed to poetic extravagances, and an exceedingly sensible,
+family kind of person, I thought very probably this might be true,
+unless he had seen it some time in his early youth. Most likely good
+Mrs. Scott never would have let him commit the impropriety that we were
+about to, and run the risk of catching the rheumatism by going out to
+see how an old abbey looked at twelve o'clock at night.
+
+We waited for the moon to rise, and of course it did not rise; nothing
+ever does when it is waited for. We went to one window, and went to
+another; half past eleven came, and no moon. "Let us give it up," said
+I, feeling rather foolish. However, we agreed to wait another quarter of
+an hour, and finally Mr. ---- announced that the moon _was_ risen; the
+only reason we did not see it was, because it was behind the Eildon
+Hills. So we voted to consider her risen at any rate, and started out in
+the dark, threading the narrow streets of the village with the
+comforting reflection that we were doing what Sir Walter would think
+rather a silly thing. When we got out before the abbey there was enough
+light behind the Eildon Hills to throw their three shadowy cones out
+distinctly to view, and to touch with a gloaming, uncertain ray the
+ivy-clad walls. As we stood before the abbey, the guide fumbling with
+his keys, and finally heard the old lock clash as the door slowly opened
+to admit us, I felt a little shiver of the ghostly come over me, just
+enough to make it agreeable.
+
+In the daytime we had criticized Walter Scott's moonlight description in
+the lines which say,--
+
+  "The distant Tweed is heard, to rave,
+  And the owlet to hoot o'er the dead man's grave."
+
+"We hear nothing of the Tweed, at any rate," said we; "that must be a
+poetic license." But now at midnight, as we walked silently through the
+mouldering aisles, the brawl of the Tweed was so distinctly heard that
+it seemed as if it was close by the old, lonely pile; nor can any term
+describe the sound more exactly than the word "rave," which the poet
+has chosen. It was the precise accuracy of this little item of
+description which made me feel as if Scott must have been here in the
+night. I walked up into the old chancel, and sat down where William of
+Deloraine and the monk sat, on the Scottish monarch's tomb, and thought
+over the words
+
+  "Strange sounds along the chancel passed,
+  And banners wave without a blast;
+  Still spake the monk when the bell tolled one."
+
+And while we were there the bell tolled twelve.
+
+And then we went to Michael Scott's grave, and we looked through the
+east oriel, with its
+
+  "Slender shafts of shapely stone,
+  By foliage tracery combined."
+
+The fanciful outlines showed all the more distinctly for the entire
+darkness within, and the gloaming moonlight without. The tall arches
+seemed higher in their dimness, and vaster than they did in the daytime.
+"Hark!" said I; "what's that?" as we heard a rustling and flutter of
+wings in the ivy branches over our heads. Only a couple of rooks, whose
+antiquarian slumbers were disturbed by the unwonted noise there at
+midnight, and who rose and flew away, rattling down some fragments of
+the ruin as they went. It was somewhat odd, but I could not help
+fancying, what if these strange, goblin rooks were the spirits of old
+monks coming back to nestle and brood among their ancient cloisters!
+Rooks are a ghostly sort of bird. I think they were made on purpose to
+live in old yew trees and ivy, as much as yew trees and ivy were to grow
+round old churches and abbeys. If we once could get inside of a rook's
+skull, to find out what he is thinking of, I'll warrant that we should
+know a great deal more about these old buildings than we do now. I
+should not wonder if there were long traditionary histories handed down
+from one generation of rooks to another, and that these are what they
+are talking about when we think they are only chattering. I imagine I
+see the whole black fraternity the next day, sitting, one on a gargoyle,
+one on a buttress, another on a shrine, gossiping over the event of our
+nightly visit.
+
+We walked up and down the long aisles, and groped out into the
+cloisters; and then I thought, to get the full ghostliness of the
+thing, we would go up the old, ruined staircase into the long galleries,
+that
+
+  "Midway thread the abbey wall."
+
+We got about half way up, when there came into our faces one of those
+sudden, passionate puffs of mist and rain which Scotch clouds seem to
+have the faculty of getting up at a minute's notice. Whish! came the
+wind in our faces, like the rustling of a whole army of spirits down the
+staircase; whereat we all tumbled back promiscuously on to each other,
+and concluded we would not go up. In fact we had done the thing, and so
+we went home; and I dreamed of arches, and corbels, and gargoyles all
+night. And so, farewell to Melrose Abbey.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+
+EDINBURGH, April.
+
+My DEAR SISTER:--
+
+Mr. S. and C---- returned from their trip to Glasgow much delighted with
+the prospects indicated by the results of the temperance meetings they
+attended there.
+
+They were present at the meeting of the Scottish Temperance League, in
+an audience of about four thousand people. The reports were encouraging,
+and the feeling enthusiastic. One hundred and eighty ministers are on
+the list of the League, forming a nucleus of able, talented, and
+determined operators. It is the intention to make a movement for a law
+which shall secure to Scotland some of the benefits of the Maine law.
+
+It appears to me that on the questions of temperance and antislavery,
+the religious communities of the two countries are in a situation
+mutually to benefit each other. Our church and ministry have been
+through a long struggle and warfare on this temperance question, in
+which a very valuable experience has been, elaborated. The religious
+people of Great Britain, on the contrary, have led on to a successful
+result a great antislavery experiment, wherein their experience and
+success can be equally beneficial and encouraging to us.
+
+The day after we returned from Melrose we spent in resting and riding
+about, as we had two engagements in the evening--one at a party at the
+house of Mr. Douglas, of Cavers, and the other at a public temperance
+_soirée_. Mr. Douglas is the author of several works which have excited
+attention; but perhaps you will remember him best by his treatise on the
+Advancement of Society in Religion and Knowledge. He is what is called
+here a "laird," a man of good family, a large landed proprietor, a
+zealous reformer, and a very devout man.
+
+We went early to spend a short time with the family. I was a little
+surprised, as I entered the hall, to find myself in the midst of a large
+circle of well-dressed men and women, who stood apparently waiting to
+receive us, and who bowed, courtesied, and smiled as we came in. Mrs. D.
+apologized to me afterwards, saying that these were the servants of the
+family, that they were exceedingly anxious to see me, and so she had
+allowed them all to come into the hall. They were so respectable in
+their appearance, and so neatly dressed, that I might almost have
+mistaken them for visitors.
+
+We had a very pleasant hour or two with the family, which I enjoyed
+exceedingly. Mr. and Mrs. Douglas were full of the most considerate
+kindness, and some of the daughters had intimate acquaintances in
+America. I enjoy these little glimpses into family circles more than any
+thing else; there is no warmth like fireside warmth.
+
+In the evening the rooms were filled. I should think all the clergymen
+of Edinburgh must have been there, for I was introduced to ministers
+without number. The Scotch have a good many little ways that are like
+ours; they call their clergy ministers, as we do. There were many
+persons from ancient families, distinguished in Scottish history both
+for rank and piety; among others, Lady Carstairs, Sir Henry Moncrief and
+lady. There was also the Countess of Gainsborough, one of the ladies of
+the queen's household, a very beautiful woman with charming manners,
+reminding one of the line of Pope--
+
+  "Graceful ease, and sweetness void of pride."
+
+I was introduced to Dr. John Brown, who is reckoned one of the best
+exegetial scholars in Europe. He is small of stature, sprightly, and
+pleasant in manners, but with a high bald forehead and snow-white hair.
+
+There were also many members of the faculty of the university. I talked
+a little with Dr. Guthrie, whom I described in a former letter. I told
+him that one thing which had been an agreeable disappointment to me was,
+the apparent cordiality between the members of the Free and the National
+church. He seemed to think that the wounds of the old conflict were, to
+a great extent, healed. He spoke in high terms of the Duchess of
+Sutherland, her affability, kindness, and considerateness to the poor. I
+forget from whom I received the anecdote, but somebody told me this of
+her--that, one of her servants having lost a relative, she had left a
+party where she was engaged, and gone in the plainest attire and
+quietest way to attend the funeral. It was remarked upon as showing her
+considerateness for the feelings of those in inferior positions.
+
+About nine o'clock we left to go to the temperance _soirée_. It was in
+the same place, and conducted in the same way, with the others which I
+have described. The lord provost presided, and one or two of the working
+men who spoke in the former _soirée_ made speeches, and very good ones
+too. The meeting was greatly enlivened by the presence and speech of the
+jovial Lord Conynghame, who amused us all by the gallant manner in which
+he expressed the warmth of Scottish welcome towards "our American
+guests." If it had been in the old times of Scottish hospitality, he
+said, he should have proposed a _bumper_ three times three; but as that
+could not be done in a temperance meeting, he proposed three cheers, in
+which he led off with a hearty good will.
+
+All that the Scotch people need now for the prosperity of their country
+is the temperance reformation; and undoubtedly they will have it. They
+have good sense and strength of mind enough to work out whatever they
+choose.
+
+We went home tired enough.
+
+The next day we had a few calls to make, and an invitation from Lady
+Drummond to visit "classic Hawthornden." Accordingly, in the forenoon,
+Mr. S. and I called first on Lord and Lady Gainsborough; though, she is
+one of the queen's household, she is staying here at Edinburgh, and the
+queen at Osborne. I infer therefore that the appointment includes no
+very onerous duties. The Earl of Gainsborough is the eldest brother of
+Rev. Baptist W. Noel.
+
+Lady Gainsborough is the daughter of the Earl of Roden, who is an Irish
+lord of the very strictest Calvinistic persuasion: He is a devout man,
+and for many years, we were told, maintained a Calvinistic church of the
+English establishment in Paris. While Mr. S. talked with Lord
+Gainsborough, I talked with his lady, and Lady Roden, who was present.
+Lady Gainsborough inquired about our schools for the poor, and how they
+were conducted. I reflected a moment, and then answered that we had no
+schools for the poor as such, but the common school was open alike to
+all classes.[K]
+
+In England and Scotland, in all classes, from the queen downward, no
+movements are so popular as those for the education and elevation of the
+poor; one is seldom in company without hearing the conversation turn
+upon them.
+
+The conversation generally turned upon the condition of servants in
+America. I said that one of the principal difficulties in American
+housekeeping proceeded from the fact that there were so many other
+openings of profit that very few were found willing to assume the
+position of the servant, except as a temporary expedient; in fact, that
+the whole idea of service was radically different, it being a mere
+temporary contract to render certain services, not differing essentially
+from the contract of the mechanic or tradesman. The ladies said they
+thought there could be no family feeling among servants if that was the
+case; and I replied that, generally speaking, there was none; that old
+and attached family servants in the free states were rare exceptions.
+
+This, I know, must look, to persons in old countries, like a hard and
+discouraging feature of democracy. I regard it, however, as only a
+temporary difficulty. Many institutions among us are in a transition
+state. Gradually the whole subject of the relations of labor and the
+industrial callings will assume a new form in America, and though we
+shall never be able to command the kind of service secured in
+aristocratic countries, yet we shall have that which will be as faithful
+and efficient. If domestic service can be made as pleasant, profitable,
+and respectable as any of the industrial callings, it will soon become
+as permanent.
+
+Our next visit was to Sir William Hamilton and lady. Sir William is the
+able successor of Dugald Stewart and Dr. Brown in the chair of
+intellectual philosophy. His writings have had a wide circulation in
+America. He is a man of noble presence, though we were sorry to see that
+he was suffering from ill health. It seems to me that Scotland bears
+that relation to England, with regard to metaphysical inquiry, that New
+England does to the rest of the United States. If one counts over the
+names of distinguished metaphysicians, the Scotch, as compared with the
+English, number three to one--Reid, Stewart, Brown, all Scotchmen.
+
+Sir William still writes and lectures. He and Mr. S. were soon
+discoursing on German, English, Scotch, and American metaphysics, while
+I was talking with Lady Hamilton and her daughters. After we came away
+Mr. S. said, that no man living had so thoroughly understood and
+analyzed the German philosophy. He said that Sir William spoke of a call
+which he had received from Professor Park, of Andover, and expressed
+himself in high terms of his metaphysical powers.
+
+After that we went to call on George Combe, the physiologist. We found
+him and Mrs. Combe in a pleasant, sunny parlor, where, among other
+objects of artistic interest, we saw a very fine engraving of Mrs.
+Siddons. I was not aware until after leaving that Mrs. Combe is her
+daughter. Mr. Combe, though somewhat advanced, seems full of life and
+animation, and conversed with a great deal of warmth and interest on
+America, where he made a tour some years since. Like other men in Europe
+who sympathize in our progress, he was sanguine in the hope that the
+downfall of slavery must come at no distant date.
+
+After a pleasant chat here we came home; and after an interval of rest
+the carriage was at the door for Hawthornden. It is about seven miles
+out from Edinburgh. It is a most romantic spot, on the banks of the
+River Esk, now the seat of Mr. James Walker Drummond. Scott has sung in
+the ballad of the Gray Brother,--
+
+  Sweet are the paths, O, passing sweet,
+    By Esk's fair streams that run,
+  O'er airy steep, through copse-woods deep,
+    Impervious to the sun.
+
+  Who knows not Melville's beechy grove,
+    And Roslin's rocky glen,
+  Dalkeith, which all the virtues love,
+    And classic Hawthornden?
+
+"Melville's beechy grove" is an allusion to the grounds of Lord
+Melville, through which we drove on our way. The beech trees here are
+magnificent; fully equal to any trees of the sort which I have seen in
+our American forests, and they were in full leaf. They do not grow so
+high, but have more breadth and a wider sweep of branches; on the whole
+they are well worthy of a place in song.
+
+I know in my childhood I often used to wish that I could live in a
+ruined castle; and this Hawthornden would be the very beau ideal of one
+as a romantic dwelling-place. It is an old castellated house, perched on
+the airy verge of a precipice, directly over the beautiful River Esk,
+looking down one of the most romantic glens in Scotland. Part of it is
+in ruins, and, hung with wreaths of ivy, it seems to stand just to look
+picturesque. The house itself, with its quaint, high gables, and gray,
+antique walls, appears old enough to take you back to the times of
+William Wallace. It is situated within an hour's walk of Roslin Castle
+and Chapel, one of the most beautiful and poetic architectural remains
+in Scotland.
+
+Our drive to the place was charming. It was a showery day; but every few
+moments the sun blinked out, smiling through the falling rain, and
+making the wet leaves glitter, and the raindrops wink at each other in
+the most sociable manner possible. Arrived at the house, our friend,
+Miss S----, took us into a beautiful parlor overhanging the glen, each
+window of which commanded a picture better than was ever made on
+canvas.
+
+We had a little chat with Lady Drummond, and then we went down to
+examine the caverns,--for there are caverns under the house, with long
+galleries and passages running from them through the rocks, some way
+down the river. Several apartments are hollowed out here in the rock on
+which the house is founded, which they told us belonged to Bruce; the
+tradition being, that he was hidden here for some months. There was his
+bed room, dining room, sitting room, and a very curious apartment where
+the walls were all honeycombed into little partitions, which they called
+his library, these little partitions being his book shelves. There are
+small loophole windows in these apartments, where you can look up and
+down the glen, and enjoy a magnificent prospect. For my part, I thought
+if I were Bruce, sitting there with a book in my lap, listening to the
+gentle brawl of the Esk, looking up and down the glen, watching the
+shaking raindrops on the oaks, the birches and beeches, I should have
+thought that was better than fighting, and that my pleasant little cave
+was as good an arbor on the Hill Difficulty as ever mortal man enjoyed.
+
+There is a ponderous old two-handed sword kept here, said to have
+belonged to Sir William Wallace. It is considerably shorter than it was
+originally, but, resting on its point, it reached to the chin of a good
+six foot gentleman of our party. The handle is made of the horn of a
+sea-horse, (if you know what that is,) and has a heavy iron ball at the
+end. It must altogether have weighed some ten or twelve pounds. Think of
+a man hewing away _on men_ with this!
+
+There is a well in this cavern, down which we were directed to look and
+observe a hole in the side; this we were told was the entrance to
+another set of caverns and chambers under those in which we were, and
+to passages which extended down and opened out into the valley. In the
+olden days the approach to these caverns was not through the house, but
+through the side of a deep well sunk in the court yard, which
+communicates through a subterranean passage with this well. Those
+seeking entrance were let down by a windlass into the well in the court
+yard, and drawn up by a windlass into this cavern. There was no such
+accommodation at present, but we were told some enterprising tourists
+had explored the lower caverns. Pleasant kind of times those old days
+must have been, when houses had to be built like a rabbit burrow, with
+all these accommodations for concealment and escape.
+
+After exploring the caverns we came up into the parlors again, and Miss
+S. showed me a Scottish album, in which were all sorts of sketches,
+memorials, autographs, and other such matters. What interested me more,
+she was making a collection of Scottish ballads, words and tunes. I told
+her that I had noticed, since I had been in Scotland, that the young
+ladies seemed to take very little interest in the national Scotch airs,
+and were all devoted to Italian; moreover, that the Scotch ballads and
+memories, which so interested me, seemed to have very little interest
+for people generally in Scotland. Miss S. was warm enough in her zeal to
+make up a considerable account, and so we got on well together.
+
+While we were sitting, chatting, two young ladies came in, who had
+walked up the glen despite the showery day. They were protected by good,
+substantial outer garments, of a kind of shag or plush, and so did not
+fear the rain. I wanted to walk down to Roslin Castle, but the party
+told me there would not be time this afternoon, as we should have to
+return at a certain hour. I should not have been reconciled to this, had
+not another excursion been proposed for the purpose of exploring
+Roslin.
+
+However, I determined to go a little way down the glen, and get a
+distant view of it, and my fair friends, the young ladies, offered to
+accompany me; so off we started down the winding paths, which were cut
+among the banks overhanging the Esk. The ground was starred over with
+patches of pale-yellow primroses, and for the first time I saw the
+heather, spreading over rocks and matting itself around the roots of
+trees. My companions, to whom it was the commonest thing in the world,
+could hardly appreciate the delight which I felt in looking at it; it
+was not in flower; I believe it does not blossom till some time in July
+or August. We have often seen it in greenhouses, and it is so hardy that
+it is singular it will not grow wild in America.
+
+We walked, ran, and scrambled to an eminence which commanded a view of
+Roslin Chapel, the only view, I fear, which will ever gladden my eyes,
+for the promised expedition to it dissolved itself into mist. When on
+the hill top, so that I could see the chapel at a distance, I stood
+thinking over the ballad of Harold, in the Lay of the Last Minstrel, and
+the fate of the lovely Rosabel, and saying over to myself the last
+verses of the ballad:--
+
+  "O'er Roslin, all that dreary night,
+    A wondrous blaze was seen to gleam;
+  'Twas broader than the watchfire's light,
+    And redder than the bright moonbeam.
+
+  It glared on Roslin's castled rock,
+    It ruddied, all the copsewood glen;
+  'Twas seen from Deyden's groves of oak,
+    And seen from cavern'd Hawthornden.
+
+  Seemed all on fire that chapel proud,
+    Where Roslin's chiefs uncoffined lie,
+  Each baron, for a sable shroud,
+    Sheathed in his iron panoply.
+
+  Seemed all on fire within, around,
+    Deep sacristy and altar's pale;
+  Shone every pillar foliage-bound,
+    And glimmered, all the dead men's mail.
+
+  Blazed battlement and pinnet high,
+    Blazed every rose-carved buttress fair,
+  So will they blaze, when fate is nigh
+    The lordly line of high St. Clair.
+
+  There are twenty of Roslin's barons bold
+    Lie buried, within that proud chapelle;
+  Each one the holy vault doth hold;
+    But the sea holds lovely Rosabelle!
+
+  And each St. Clair was buried there,
+    With candle, with book, and with knell;
+  But the sea caves rung, and the wild winds sung,
+    The dirge of lovely Rosabelle."
+
+There are many allusions in this which show Scott's minute habits of
+observation; for instance, these two lines:--
+
+  "Blazed battlement and pinnet high,
+    Blazed every rose-carved buttress fair."
+
+Every buttress, battlement, and projection of the exterior is incrusted
+with the most elaborate floral and leafy carving, among which the rose
+is often repeated, from its suggesting, by similarity of sound, Roslin.
+
+Again, this line--
+
+  "Shone every pillar foliage-bound"--
+
+suggests to the mind the profusion and elaborateness of the leafy
+decorations in the inside. Among these, one pillar, garlanded with
+spiral wreaths of carved foliage, is called the "Apprentice's Pillar;"
+the tradition being, that while the master was gone to Rome to get some
+further hints on executing the plan, a precocious young mason, whom he
+left at home, completed it in his absence. The master builder summarily
+knocked him on the head, as a warning to all progressive young men not
+to grow wiser than their teachers. Tradition points out the heads of the
+master and workmen among the corbels. So you see, whereas in old Greek
+times people used to point out their celebrities among the stars, and
+gave a defunct hero a place in the constellations, in the middle ages he
+only got a place among the corbels.
+
+I am increasingly sorry that I was beguiled out of my personal
+examination of this chapel, since I have seen the plates of it in my
+Baronial Sketches. It is the rival of Melrose, but more elaborate; in
+fact, it is a perfect cataract of architectural vivacity and ingenuity,
+as defiant of any rules of criticism and art as the leaf-embowered
+arcades and arches of our American forest cathedrals. From the
+comparison of the plates of the engravings, I should judge there was
+less delicacy of taste, and more exuberance of invention, than in
+Melrose. One old prosaic commentator on it says that it is quite
+remarkable that there are no two cuts in it precisely alike; each
+buttress, window, and pillar is unique, though with such a general
+resemblance to each other as to deceive the eye.
+
+It was built in 1446, by William St. Clair, who was Prince of Orkney,
+Duke of Oldenburgh, Lord of Roslin, Earl of Caithness and Strathearn,
+and so on _ad infinitum_. He was called the "Seemly St. Clair," from his
+noble deportment and elegant manners; resided in royal splendor at this
+Castle of Roslin, and kept a court there as Prince of Orkney. His table
+was served with vessels of gold and silver, and he had one lord for his
+master of household, one for his cup bearer, and one for his carver. His
+princess, Elizabeth Douglas, was served by seventy-five gentlewomen,
+fifty-three of whom were daughters of noblemen, and they were attended
+in all their excursions by a retinue of two hundred gentlemen.
+
+These very woods and streams, which now hear nothing but the murmurs of
+the Esk, were all alive with the bustle of a court in those days.
+
+The castle was now distinctly visible; it stands on an insulated rock,
+two hundred and twenty yards from the chapel. It has under it a set of
+excavations and caverns almost equally curious with those of
+Hawthornden; there are still some tolerably preserved rooms in it, and
+Mrs. W. informed me that they had once rented these rooms for a summer
+residence. What a delightful idea! The barons of Roslin were all buried
+under this Chapel, in their armor, as Scott describes in the poem. And
+as this family were altogether more than common folks, it is perfectly
+credible that on the death of one of them a miraculous light should
+illuminate the castle, chapel, and whole neighborhood.
+
+It appears, by certain ancient documents, that this high and mighty
+house of St. Clair were in a particular manner patrons of the masonic
+craft. It is known that the trade of masonry was then in the hands of a
+secret and mysterious order, from whom probably our modern masons have
+descended.
+
+The St. Clair family, it appears, were at the head of this order, with
+power to appoint officers and places of meeting, to punish
+transgressors, and otherwise to have the superintendence of all their
+affairs. This fact may account for such a perfect Geyser of
+architectural ingenuity as has been poured out upon their family chapel,
+which was designed for a _chef-d'oeuvre_, a concentration of the best
+that could be done to the honor of their patron's family. The documents
+which authenticate this statement are described in Billings's Baronial
+Antiquities. So much for "the lordly line of high St. Clair."
+
+When we came back to the house, and after taking coffee in the drawing
+room, Miss S. took me over the interior, a most delightful place, full
+of all sorts of out-of-the-way snuggeries, and comfortable corners, and
+poetic irregularities. There she showed me a picture of one of the early
+ancestors of the family, the poet Drummond, hanging in a room, which
+tradition has assigned to him. It represents a man with a dark,
+Spanish-looking face, with the broad Elizabethan ruff, earnest,
+melancholy eyes, and an air half cavalier, half poet, bringing to mind
+the chivalrous, graceful, fastidious bard, accomplished scholar, and
+courtier of his time, the devout believer in the divine right of kings,
+and of the immunities and privileges of the upper class generally. This
+Drummond, it seems, was early engaged to a fair young lady, whose death
+rendered his beautiful retreat of Hawthornden insupportable to him, and
+of course, like other persons of romance, he sought refuge in foreign
+travel, went abroad, and remained eight years. Afterwards he came back,
+married, and lived here for some time.
+
+Among other traditions of the place, it is said that Ben Jonson once
+walked all the way from London to visit the poet in this retreat; and a
+tree is still shown on the grounds under which they are said to have
+met. It seems that Ben's habits were rather too noisy and convivial to
+meet altogether the taste of his fastidious and aristocratic host; and
+so he had his own thoughts of him, which, being written down in a diary,
+were published by some indiscreet executor, after they were both dead.
+
+We were shown an old, original edition of the poems. I must confess I
+never read them. Since I have seen the material the poet and novelist
+has on this ground, all I wonder at is, that there have not been a
+thousand poets to one. I should have thought they would have been as
+plenty as the mavis and merle, and sprouting out every where, like the
+primroses and heather bells.
+
+Our American literature is unfortunate in this respect--that our nation
+never had any childhood, our day never had any dawn; so we have very
+little traditionary lore to work over.
+
+We came home about five o'clock, and had some company in the evening.
+Some time to-day I had a little chat with Mrs. W. on the Quakers. She is
+a cultivated and thoughtful woman, and seemed to take quite impartial
+views, and did not consider her own sect as by any means the only form
+of Christianity, but maintained--what every sensible person must grant,
+I think--that it has had an important mission in society, even in its
+peculiarities. I inferred from her conversation that the system of plain
+dress, maintained with the nicety which they always use, is by no means
+a saving in a pecuniary point of view. She stated that one young friend,
+who had been brought up in this persuasion, gave it as her reason for
+not adopting its peculiar dress, that she could not afford it; that is
+to say, that for a given sum of money she could make a more creditable
+appearance were she allowed the range of form, shape, and trimming,
+which the ordinary style of dressing permits.
+
+I think almost any lady, who knows the magical value of bits of
+trimming, and bows of ribbon judiciously adjusted in critical locations,
+of inserting, edging, and embroidery, considered as economic arts, must
+acknowledge that there is some force in the young lady's opinion.
+Nevertheless the Doric simplicity of a Quaker lady's dress, who is in
+circumstances to choose her material, has a peculiar charm. As at
+present advised, the Quaker ladies whom I have seen very judiciously
+adhere to the spirit of plain attire, without troubling themselves to
+maintain the exact letter. For instance, a plain straw cottage, with its
+white satin ribbon, is sometimes allowed to take the place of the close
+silk bonnet of Fox's day.
+
+For my part, while I reverence the pious and unworldly spirit which
+dictated the peculiar forms of the Quaker sect, I look for a higher
+development of religion still, when all the beautiful artistic faculties
+of the soul being wholly sanctified and offered up to God, we shall no
+longer shun beauty in any of its forms, either in dress or household
+adornment, as a temptation, but rather offer it up as a sacrifice to Him
+who has set us the example, by making every thing beautiful in its
+season.
+
+As to art and letters, I find many of my Quaker friends sympathizing in
+those judicious views which were taken by the society of Friends in
+Philadelphia, when Benjamin West developed a talent for painting,
+regarding such talent as an indication of the will of Him who had
+bestowed it. So I find many of them taking pleasure in the poetry of
+Scott, Longfellow, and Whittier, as developments of his wisdom who gives
+to the human soul its different faculties and inspirations.
+
+More delightful society than a cultivated Quaker family cannot be found:
+the truthfulness, genuineness, and simplicity of character, albeit not
+wanting, at proper times, a shrewd dash of worldly wisdom, are very
+refreshing.
+
+Mrs. W. and I went to the studio of Hervey, the Scotch artist. Both he
+and his wife received us with great kindness. I saw there his
+Covenanters celebrating the Lord's Supper--a picture which I could not
+look at critically on account of the tears which kept blinding my eyes.
+It represents a bleak hollow of a mountain side, where a few trembling
+old men and women, a few young girls and children, with one or two young
+men, are grouped together, in that moment of hushed prayerful repose
+which precedes the breaking of the sacramental bread. There is something
+touching always about that worn, weary look of rest and comfort with
+which a sick child lies down on a mother's bosom, and like this is the
+expression with which these hunted fugitives nestle themselves beneath
+the shadow of their Redeemer; mothers who had seen their sons "tortured,
+not accepting deliverance"--wives who had seen the blood of their
+husbands poured out on their doorstone--children with no father but
+God--and bereaved old men, from whom, every child had been rent--all
+gathering for comfort round the cross of a suffering Lord. In such hours
+they found strength to suffer, and to say to every allurement of worldly
+sense and pleasure as the drowning Margaret Wilson said to the tempters
+in her hour of martyrdom, "I am _Christ's child_--let me go."
+
+Another most touching picture of Hervey's commemorates a later scene of
+Scottish devotion and martyr endurance scarcely below that of the days
+of the Covenant. It is called Leaving the Manse.
+
+We in America all felt to our heart's core a sympathy with that high
+endurance which led so many Scottish ministers to forsake their
+churches, their salaries, the happy homes where their children were born
+and their days passed, rather than violate a principle.
+
+This picture is a monument of this struggle. There rises the manse
+overgrown with its flowering vines, the image of a lovely, peaceful
+home. The minister's wife, a pale, lovely creature, is just locking the
+door, out of which her husband and family have passed--leaving it
+forever. The husband and father is supporting on his arm an aged, feeble
+mother, and the weeping children are gathering sorrowfully round him,
+each bearing away some memorial of their home; one has the bird cage.
+But the unequalled look of high, unshaken patience, of heroic faith, and
+love which seems to spread its light over every face, is what I cannot
+paint. The painter told me that the faces were _portraits_, and the
+scene by no means imaginary.
+
+But did not these sacrifices bring with them, even in their bitterness,
+a joy the world knoweth not? Yes, they did. I know it full well, not
+vainly did Christ say, There is no man that hath left houses or lands
+for my sake and the gospel's but he shall receive manifold more _in this
+life_.
+
+Mr. Hervey kindly gave me the engraving of his Covenanters' Sacrament,
+which I shall keep as a memento of him and of Scotland.
+
+His style of painting is forcible and individual. He showed us the
+studies that he has taken with his palette and brushes out on the
+mountains and moors of Scotland, painting moss, and stone, and brook,
+just as it is. This is the way to be a national painter.
+
+One pleasant evening, not long before we left Edinburgh, C., S., and I
+walked out for a quiet stroll. We went through the Grass Market, where
+so many defenders of the Covenant have suffered, and turned into the
+churchyard of the Gray Friars; a gray, old Gothic building, with
+multitudes of graves around it. Here we saw the tombs of Allan Ramsay
+and many other distinguished characters. The grim, uncouth sculpture on
+the old graves, and the quaint epitaphs, interested me much; but I was
+most moved by coming quite unexpectedly on an ivy-grown slab, in the
+wall, commemorating the martyrs of the Covenant. The inscription struck
+me so much, that I got C---- to copy it in his memorandum book.
+
+  "Halt, passenger! take heed what you do see.
+  Here lies interred the dust of those who stood
+  'Gainst perjury, resisting unto blood,
+  Adhering to the Covenant, and laws
+  Establishing the same; which was the cause
+  Their lives were sacrificed unto the last
+  Of prelatists abjured, though here their dust
+  Lies mixed with murderers and other crew
+  Whom justice justly did to death pursue;
+  But as for them, no cause was to be found
+  Worthy of death, but only they were found
+  Constant and steadfast, witnessing
+  For the prerogatives of Christ their King;
+  Which truths were sealed, by famous Guthrie's head,
+  And all along to Mr. Renwick's blood
+  They did endure the wrath of enemies,
+  Reproaches, torments, deaths, and injuries;
+  But yet they're those who from such troubles came
+  And triumph now in glory with the Lamb.
+
+     "From May 27, 1681, when the Marquis of Argyle was beheaded, to
+     February 17, 1688, when James Renwick suffered, there were some
+     eighteen thousand one way or other murdered, of whom were executed
+     at Edinburgh about one hundred noblemen, ministers, and gentlemen,
+     and others, noble martyrs for Christ."
+
+Despite the roughness of the verse, there is a thrilling power in these
+lines. People in gilded houses, on silken couches, at ease among books,
+and friends, and literary pastimes, may sneer at the Covenanters; it is
+much easier to sneer than to die for truth and right, as they died.
+Whether they were right in all respects is nothing to the purpose; but
+it is to the purpose that in a crisis of their country's history they
+upheld a great principle vital to her existence. Had not these men held
+up the heart of Scotland, and kept alive the fire of liberty on her
+altars, the very literature which has been used to defame them could not
+have had its existence. The very literary celebrity of Scotland has
+grown out of their grave; for a vigorous and original literature is
+impossible, except to a strong, free, self-respecting people. The
+literature of a people must spring from the sense of its nationality;
+and nationality is impossible without self-respect, and self-respect is
+impossible without liberty.
+
+It is one of the trials of our mortal state, one of the disciplines of
+our virtue, that the world's benefactors and reformers are so often
+without form or comeliness. The very force necessary to sustain the
+conflict makes them appear unlovely; they "tread the wine press alone,
+and of the people there is none with them." The shrieks, and groans, and
+agonies of men wrestling in mortal combat are often not graceful or
+gracious; but the comments that the children of the Puritans, and the
+children of the Covenanters, make on the ungraceful and severe elements
+which marked the struggles of their great fathers, are as ill-timed as
+if a son, whom a mother had just borne from a burning dwelling, should
+criticize the shrieks with which she sought him, and point out to
+ridicule the dishevelled hair and singed garments which show how she
+struggled for his life. But these are they which are "sown in weakness,
+but raised in power; which are sown in dishonor, but raised in glory:"
+even in this world they will have their judgment day, and their names
+which went down in the dust like a gallant banner trodden in the mire,
+shall rise again all glorious in the sight of nations.
+
+The evening sky, glowing red, threw out the bold outline of the castle,
+and the quaint old edifices as they seemed to look down on us silently
+from their rocky heights, and the figure of Salisbury Crags marked
+itself against the red sky like a couchant lion.
+
+The time of our sojourn in Scotland had drawn towards its close. Though
+feeble in health, this visit to me has been full of enjoyment; full of
+lofty, but sad memories; full of sympathies and inspirations. I think
+there is no nobler land, and I pray God that the old seed here sown in
+blood and tears may never be rooted out of Scotland.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER X.
+
+
+MY DEAR H.:--
+
+It was a rainy, misty morning when I left my kind retreat and friends in
+Edinburgh. Considerate as every body had been about imposing on my time
+or strength, still you may well believe that I was much exhausted.
+
+We left Edinburgh, therefore, with the determination to plunge at once
+into some hidden and unknown spot, where we might spend two or three
+days quietly by ourselves; and remembering your Sunday at
+Stratford-on-Avon, I proposed that we should go there. As Stratford,
+however, is off the railroad line we determined to accept the
+invitation, which was lying by us, from our friend Joseph Sturge, of
+Birmingham, and take sanctuary with him. So we wrote on, intrusting him
+with the secret, and charging him on no account to let any one know of
+our arrival.
+
+Well in the rail car, we went whirling along by Preston Pans, where was
+fought the celebrated battle in which Colonel Gardiner was killed; by
+Dunbar, where Cromwell told his army to "trust in God and keep their
+powder dry;" through Berwick-on-the-Tweed and Newcastle-on-Tyne; by the
+old towers and gates of York, with its splendid cathedral; getting a
+view of Durham Cathedral in the distance.
+
+The country between Berwick and Newcastle is one of the greatest
+manufacturing districts of England, and for smoke, smut, and gloom,
+Pittsburg and Wheeling bear no comparison to it. The English sky,
+always paler and cooler in its tints than ours, here seems to be turned
+into a leaden canopy; tall chimneys belch forth gloom and confusion;
+houses, factories, fences, even trees and grass, look grim and sooty.
+
+It is true that people with immense wealth can live in such regions in
+cleanliness and elegance; but how must it be with the poor? I know of no
+one circumstance more unfavorable to moral purity than the necessity of
+being physically dirty. Our nature is so intensely symbolical, that
+where the outward sign of defilement becomes habitual, the inner is too
+apt to correspond. I am quite sure that before there can be a universal
+millennium, trade must be pursued in such a way as to enable the working
+classes to realize something of beauty and purity in the circumstances
+of their outward life.
+
+I have heard there is a law before the British Parliament, whose
+operation is designed to purify the air of England by introducing
+chimneys which shall consume all the sooty particles which now float
+about, obscuring the air and carrying defilement with them. May that day
+be hastened!
+
+At Newcastle-on-Tyne and some other places various friends came out to
+meet us, some of whom presented us with most splendid bouquets of
+hothouse flowers. This region has been the seat of some of the most
+zealous and efficient antislavery operations in England.
+
+About night our cars whizzed into the depot at Birmingham; but just
+before we came in a difficulty was started in the company. "Mr. Sturge
+is to be there waiting for us, but he does not know us, and we don't
+know him; what is to be done?" C---- insisted that he should know him by
+instinct; and so after we reached the depot, we told him to sally out
+and try. Sure enough, in a few moments he pitched upon a cheerful,
+middle-aged gentleman, with a moderate but not decisive broad brim to
+his hat, and challenged him as Mr. Sturge; the result verified the truth
+that "instinct is a great matter." In a few moments our new friend and
+ourselves were snugly encased in a fly, trotting off as briskly as ever
+we could to his place at Edgbaston, nobody a whit the wiser. You do not
+know how snug we felt to think we had done it so nicely.
+
+The carriage soon drove in upon a gravel walk, winding among turf,
+flowers, and shrubs, where we found opening to us another home as warm
+and kindly as the one we had just left, made doubly interesting by the
+idea of entire privacy and seclusion.
+
+After retiring to our chambers to repair the ravages of travel, we
+united in the pleasant supper room, where the table was laid before a
+bright coal fire: no unimportant feature this fire, I can assure you, in
+a raw cloudy evening. A glass door from the supper room opened into a
+conservatory, brilliant with pink and yellow azalias, golden
+calceolarias, and a profusion of other beauties, whose names I did not
+know.
+
+The side tables were strewn with books, and the ample folds of the drab
+curtains, let down over the windows, shut out the rain, damp, and chill.
+When we were gathered round the table, Mr. Sturge said that he had
+somewhat expected Elihu Burritt that evening, and we all hoped he would
+come. I must not omit to say, that the evening circle was made more
+attractive and agreeable in my eyes by the presence of two or three of
+the little people, who were blessed with the rosy cheek of English
+children.
+
+Mr. Sturge is one of the most prominent and efficient of the
+philanthropists of modern days. An air of benignity and easy good
+nature veils and conceals in him the most unflinching perseverance and
+energy of purpose. He has for many years been a zealous advocate of the
+antislavery cause in England, taking up efficiently the work begun by
+Clarkson and Wilberforce. He, with a friend of the same denomination,
+made a journey at their own expense, to investigate the workings of the
+apprentice system, by which the act of immediate emancipation in the
+West Indies was for a while delayed. After his return he sustained a
+rigorous examination of seven days before a committee of the House of
+Commons, the result of which successfully demonstrated the abuses of
+that system, and its entire inutility for preparing either masters or
+servants for final emancipation. This evidence went as far as any thing
+to induce Parliament to declare immediate and entire emancipation.
+
+Mr. Sturge also has been equally zealous and engaged in movements for
+the ignorant and perishing classes at home. At his own expense he has
+sustained a private Farm School for the reformation of juvenile
+offenders, and it has sometimes been found that boys, whom no severity
+and no punishment seemed to affect, have been entirely melted and
+subdued by the gentler measures here employed. He has also taken a very
+ardent and decided part in efforts for the extension of the principles
+of peace, being a warm friend and supporter of Elihu Burritt.
+
+The next morning it was agreed that we should take our drive to
+Stratford-on-Avon. As yet this shrine of pilgrims stands a little aloof
+from the bustle of modern progress, and railroad cars do not run
+whistling and whisking with brisk officiousness by the old church and
+the fanciful banks of the Avon.
+
+The country that we were to pass over was more peculiarly old English;
+that phase of old English which is destined soon to pass away, under the
+restless regenerating force of modern progress.
+
+Our ride along was a singular commixture of an upper and under current
+of thought. Deep down in our hearts we were going back to English days;
+the cumbrous, quaint, queer, old, picturesque times; the dim, haunted
+times between cock-crowing and morning; those hours of national
+childhood, when popular ideas had the confiding credulity, the poetic
+vivacity, and versatile life, which distinguish children from grown
+people.
+
+No one can fail to feel, in reading any of the plays of Shakspeare, that
+he was born in an age of credulity and marvels, and that the materials
+out of which his mind was woven were dyed in the grain, in the haunted
+springs of tradition. It would have been as absolutely impossible for
+even himself, had he been born in the daylight of this century, to have
+built those quaint, Gothic structures of imagination, and tinted them
+with their peculiar coloring of marvellousness and mystery, as for a
+modern artist to originate and execute the weird designs of an ancient
+cathedral. Both Gothic architecture and this perfection of Gothic poetry
+were the springing and efflorescence of that age, impossible to grow
+again. They were the forest primeval; other trees may spring in their
+room, trees as mighty and as fair, but not such trees.
+
+So, as we rode along, our speculations and thoughts in the under current
+were back in the old world of tradition. While, on the other hand, for
+the upper current, we were keeping up a brisk conversation on the peace
+question, on the abolition of slavery, on the possibility of ignoring
+slave-grown produce, on Mr. Cobden and Mr. Bright, and, in fact, on all
+the most wide-awake topics of the present day.
+
+One little incident occurred upon the road. As we were passing by a
+quaint old mansion, which stood back from the road, surrounded by a deep
+court, Mr. S. said to me, "There is a friend here who would like to see
+thee, if thou hast no objections," and went on to inform me that she was
+an aged woman, who had taken a deep interest in the abolition of slavery
+since the time of its first inception under Clarkson and Wilberforce,
+though now lying very low on a sick bed. Of course we all expressed our
+willingness to stop, and the carriage was soon driving up the gravelled
+walk towards the house. We were ushered into a comfortable sitting room,
+which looked out on beautiful grounds, where the velvet grass, tall,
+dark trees, and a certain quaint air of antiquity in disposition and
+arrangement, gave me a singular kind of pleasure; the more so, that it
+came to me like a dream; that the house and the people were unknown to
+me, and the whole affair entirely unexpected.
+
+I was soon shown into a neat chamber, where an aged woman was lying in
+bed. I was very much struck and impressed by her manner of receiving me.
+With deep emotion and tears, she spoke of the solemnity and sacredness
+of the cause which had for years lain near her heart. There seemed to be
+something almost prophetic in the solemn strain of assurance with which
+she spoke of the final extinction of slavery throughout the world.
+
+I felt both pleased and sorrowful. I felt sorrowful because I knew, if
+all true Christians in America had the same feelings, that men, women,
+and children, for whom Christ died, would no more be sold in my country
+on the auction block.
+
+There have been those in America who have felt and prayed thus nobly and
+sincerely for the heathen in Burmah and Hindostan, and that sentiment
+was a beautiful and an ennobling one; but, alas! the number has been few
+who have felt and prayed for the heathenism, and shame of our own
+country; for the heathenism which sells the very members of the body of
+Christ as merchandise.
+
+When we were again on the road, we were talking on the change of times
+in England since railroads began; and Mr. S. gave an amusing description
+of how the old lords used to travel in state, with their coaches and
+horses, when they went up once a year on a solemn pilgrimage to London,
+with postilions and outriders, and all the country gaping and wondering
+after them.
+
+"I wonder," said one of us, "if Shakspeare were living, what he would
+say to our times, and what he would think of all the questions that are
+agitating the world now." That he did have thoughts whose roots ran far
+beyond the depth of the age in which he lived, is plain enough from
+numberless indications in his plays; but whether he would have taken any
+practical interest in the world's movements is a fair question. The
+poetic mind is not always the progressive one; it has, like moss and
+ivy, a need for something old to cling to and germinate upon. The
+artistic temperament, too, is soft and sensitive; so there are all these
+reasons for thinking that perhaps he would have been for keeping out of
+the way of the heat and dust of modern progress. It does not follow
+because a man has penetration to see an evil, he has energy to reform
+it.
+
+Erasmus saw all that Luther saw just as clearly, but he said that he had
+rather never have truth at all, than contend for it with the world in
+such a tumult. However, on the other hand, England did, in Milton, have
+one poet who girt himself up to the roughest and stormiest work of
+reformation; so it is not quite certain, after all, that Shakspeare
+might not have been a reformer in our times. One thing is quite certain,
+that he would have said very shrewd things about all the matters that
+move the world now, as he certainly did about all matters that he was
+cognizant of in his own day.
+
+It was a little before noon when we drove into Stratford, by which time,
+with our usual fatality in visiting poetic shrines, the day had melted
+off into a kind of drizzling mist, strongly suggestive of a downright
+rain. It is a common trick these English days have; the weather here
+seems to be possessed of a water spirit. This constant drizzle is good
+for ivies, and hawthorns, and ladies' complexions, as whoever travels
+here will observe, but it certainly is very bad for tourists.
+
+This Stratford is a small town, of between three and four thousand
+inhabitants, and has in it a good many quaint old houses, and is
+characterized (so I thought) by an air of respectable, stand-still, and
+meditative repose, which, I am afraid, will entirely give way before the
+railroad demon, for I understand that it is soon to be connected by the
+Oxford, Worcester, and Wolverhampton line with all parts of the kingdom.
+Just think of that black little screeching imp rushing through these
+fields which have inspired so many fancies; how every thing poetical
+will fly before it! Think of such sweet snatches as these set to the
+tune of a railroad whistle:--
+
+  "Hark! hark! the lark at heaven's gate sings,
+    And Phoebus 'gins to rise,
+  His steeds to water at those springs
+    On chaliced flowers that lies.
+
+  And winking Mary-buds begin
+    To ope their golden eyes,
+  With everything that pretty bid
+    My lady sweet to rise."
+
+And again:--
+
+  "Philomel with melody sing in our sweet lullaby,
+    Lulla, lulla, lullaby.
+  Never harm, nor spell, nor charm,
+    Come our lovely lady nigh."
+
+I suppose the meadows, with their "winking Mary-buds," will be all cut
+up into building lots in the good times coming, and Philomel caught and
+put in a cage to sing to tourists at threepence a head.
+
+We went to the White Lion, and soon had a little quiet parlor to
+ourselves, neatly carpeted, with a sofa drawn up to the cheerful coal
+fire, a good-toned piano, and in short every thing cheerful and
+comfortable.
+
+At first we thought we were too tired to do any thing till after dinner;
+we were going to take time to rest ourselves and proceed leisurely; so,
+while the cloth was laying, C---- took possession of the piano, and I of
+the sofa, till Mr. S. came in upon us, saying, "Why, Shakspeare's house
+is right the next door here!" Upon that we got up, just to take a peep,
+and from peeping we proceeded to looking, and finally put on our things
+and went over _seriatim_. The house has recently been bought by a
+Shakspearian club, who have taken upon themselves the restoration and
+preservation of the premises.
+
+Shakspeare's father, it seems, was a man of some position and substance
+in his day, being high sheriff and justice of the peace for the borough;
+and this house, therefore, I suppose, may be considered a specimen of
+the respectable class of houses in the times of Queen Elizabeth. This
+cut is taken from an old print, and is supposed to represent the
+original condition of the house.
+
+We saw a good many old houses somewhat similar to this on the road,
+particularly resembling it in this manner of plastering, which shows all
+the timber on the outside. Parts of the house have been sold, altered,
+and used for various purposes; a butcher's stall having been kept in a
+part of it, and a tavern in another portion, being new-fronted with
+brick.
+
+The object of this Shakspeare Club has been to repurchase all these
+parts, and restore them as nearly as possible to their primeval
+condition. The part of the house which is shown consists of a lower
+room, which is floored with flat stones very much broken. It has a wide,
+old-fashioned chimney on one side, and opens into a smaller room back of
+it. From thence you go up a rude flight of stairs to a low-studded room,
+with rough-plastered walls, where the poet was born.
+
+The prints of this room, which are generally sold, allow themselves in
+considerable poetic license, representing it in fact as quite an elegant
+apartment, whereas, though it is kept scrupulously neat and clean, the
+air of it is ancient and rude. This is a somewhat flattered likeness.
+The roughly-plastered walls are so covered with names that it seemed
+impossible to add another. The name of almost every modern genius, names
+of kings, princes, dukes, are shown here; and it is really curious to
+see by what devices some very insignificant personages have endeavored
+to make their own names conspicuous in the crowd. Generally speaking the
+inscription books and walls of distinguished places tend to give great
+force to the Vulgate rendering of Ecclesiastes i. 15, "The number of
+fools is infinite."
+
+To add a name in a private, modest way to walls already so crowded, is
+allowable; but to scrawl one's name, place of birth, and country, half
+across a wall, covering scores of names under it, is an operation which
+speaks for itself. No one would ever want to know more of a man than to
+see his name there and thus.
+
+Back of this room were some small bed rooms, and what interested me
+much, a staircase leading up into a dark garret. I could not but fancy I
+saw a bright-eyed, curly-headed boy creeping up those stairs, zealous to
+explore the mysteries of that dark garret. There perhaps he saw the cat,
+with "eyne of burning coal, crouching 'fore the mouse's hole." Doubtless
+in this old garret were wonderful mysteries to him, curious stores of
+old cast-off goods and furniture, and rats, and mice, and cobwebs. I
+fancied the indignation of some belligerent grandmother or aunt, who
+finds Willie up there watching a mouse hole, with the cat, and has him
+down straightway, grumbling that Mary did not govern that child better.
+
+We know nothing who this Mary was that was his mother; but one sometimes
+wonders where in that coarse age, when queens and ladies talked
+familiarly, as women would blush to talk now, and when the broad, coarse
+wit of the Merry Wives of Windsor was gotten up to suit the taste of a
+virgin queen,--one wonders, I say, when women were such and so, where he
+found those models of lily-like purity, women so chaste in soul and
+pure in language that they could not even bring their lips to utter a
+word of shame. Desdemona cannot even bring herself to speak the coarse
+word with which her husband taunts her; she cannot make herself believe
+that there are women in the world who could stoop-to such grossness.[L]
+
+For my part I cannot believe that, in such an age, such deep
+heart-knowledge of pure womanhood could have come otherwise than by the
+impression on the child's soul of a mother's purity. I seem to have a
+vision of one of those women whom the world knows not of, silent,
+deep-hearted, loving, whom the coarser and more practically efficient
+jostle aside and underrate for their want of interest in the noisy
+chitchat and commonplace of the day; but who yet have a sacred power,
+like that of the spirit of peace, to brood with dovelike wings over the
+childish heart, and quicken into life the struggling, slumbering
+elements of a sensitive nature.
+
+I cannot but think, in that beautiful scene, where he represents
+Desdemona as amazed and struck dumb with the grossness and brutality of
+the charges which had been thrown upon her, yet so dignified in the
+consciousness of her own purity, so magnanimous in the power of
+disinterested, forgiving love, that he was portraying no ideal
+excellence, but only reproducing, under fictitious and supposititious
+circumstances, the patience, magnanimity, and enduring love which had
+shone upon him in the household words and ways of his mother.
+
+It seemed to me that in that bare and lowly chamber I saw a vision of a
+lovely face which was the first beauty that dawned on those childish
+eyes, and heard that voice whose lullaby tuned his ear to an exquisite
+sense of cadence and rhythm. I fancied that, while she thus serenely
+shone upon, him like a benignant star, some rigorous grand-aunt took
+upon her the practical part of his guidance, chased up his wanderings to
+the right and left, scolded him for wanting to look out of the window
+because his little climbing toes left their mark on the neat wall, or
+rigorously arrested him when his curly head was seen bobbing off at the
+bottom of the street, following a bird, or a dog, or a showman;
+intercepting him in some happy hour when he was aiming to strike off on
+his own account to an adjoining field for "winking Mary-buds;" made long
+sermons to him on the wickedness of muddying his clothes and wetting his
+new shoes, (if he had any,) and told him that something dreadful would
+come out of the graveyard and catch him if he was not a better boy,
+imagining that if it were not for her bustling activity Willie would go
+straight to destruction.
+
+I seem, too, to have a kind of perception of Shakspeare's father; a
+quiet, God-fearing, thoughtful man, given to the reading of good books,
+avoiding quarrels with a most Christian-like fear, and with but small
+talent, either in the way of speech making or money getting; a man who
+wore his coat with an easy slouch, and who seldom knew where his money
+went to.
+
+All these things I seemed to perceive as if a sort of vision had
+radiated from the old walls; there seemed to be the rustling of garments
+and the sound of voices in the deserted rooms; the pattering of feet on
+the worm-eaten staircase; the light of still, shady summer afternoons, a
+hundred years ago, seemed to fall through the casements and lie upon the
+floor. There was an interest to every thing about the house, even to
+the quaint iron fastenings about the windows; because those might have
+arrested that child's attention, and been dwelt on in some dreamy hour
+of infant thought. The fires that once burned in those old chimneys, the
+fleeting sparks, the curling smoke, and glowing coals, all may have
+inspired their fancies. There is a strong tinge of household coloring in
+many parts of Shakspeare, imagery that could only have come from such
+habits of quiet, household contemplation. See, for example, this
+description of the stillness of the house, after all are gone to bed at
+night:--
+
+  "Now sleep yslaked hath the rout;
+  No din but snores, the house about,
+  Made louder by the o'er-fed breast
+  Of this most pompous marriage feast.
+  The cat, with, eyne of burning coal,
+  Now crouches 'fore the mouse's hole;
+  And, crickets sing at th' oven's mouth,
+  As the blither for their drouth."
+
+Also this description of the midnight capers of the fairies about the
+house, from Midsummer Night's Dream:--
+
+  PUCK.  "Now the hungry lion roars,
+           And the wolf behowls the moon;
+         Whilst the heavy ploughman snores,
+           All with, weary task fordone.
+         Now the wasted brands do glow,
+           Whilst the scritch-owl, scritching loud,
+         Puts the wretch, that lies in woe,
+           In remembrance of a shroud.
+         Now it is the time of night,
+           That the graves all gaping wide,
+         Every one lets forth his sprite,
+           In the churchway paths to glide:
+
+         And we fairies that do run
+           By the triple Hecate's team,
+         From the presence of the sun,
+           Following darkness like a dream,
+         Now are frolic; not a mouse
+         Shall disturb this hallowed house:
+         I am sent with, broom, before,
+         To sweep the dust behind the door.
+
+  OBE.   Through this house give glimmering light,
+           By the dead and drowsy fire:
+         Every elf, and fairy sprite,
+           Hop as light as bird, from brier;
+         And this ditty after me
+         Sing, and dance it trippingly."
+
+By the by, one cannot but be struck with the resemblance, in the spirit
+and coloring of these lines, to those very similar ones in the Penseroso
+of Milton:--
+
+  "Far from all resort of mirth,
+  Save the cricket on the hearth,
+  Or the bellman's drowsy charm,
+  To bless the doors from nightly harm;
+  While glowing embers, through the room,
+  Teach light to counterfeit a gloom."
+
+I have often noticed how much the first writings of Milton resemble in
+their imagery and tone of coloring those of Shakspeare, particularly in
+the phraseology and manner of describing flowers. I think, were a
+certain number of passages from Lycidas and Comus interspersed with a
+certain number from Midsummer Night's Dream, the imagery, tone of
+thought, and style of coloring, would be found so nearly identical, that
+it would be difficult for one not perfectly familiar to distinguish
+them. You may try it.
+
+That Milton read and admired Shakspeare is evident from his allusion to
+him in L'Allegro. It is evident, however, that Milton's taste had been
+so formed by the Greek models, that he was not entirely aware of all
+that was in Shakspeare; he speaks of him as a sweet, fanciful warbler,
+and it is exactly in sweetness and fancifulness that he seems to have
+derived benefit from him. In his earlier poems, Milton seems, like
+Shakspeare, to have let his mind run freely, as a brook warbles over
+many-colored pebbles; whereas in his great poem he built after models.
+Had he known as little Latin and Greek as Shakspeare, the world, instead
+of seeing a well-arranged imitation of the ancient epics from his pen,
+would have seen inaugurated a new order of poetry.
+
+An unequalled artist, who should build after the model of a Grecian
+temple, would doubtless produce a splendid and effective building,
+because a certain originality always inheres in genius, even when
+copying; but far greater were it to invent an entirely new style of
+architecture, as different as the Gothic from the Grecian. This merit
+was Shakspeare's. He was a superb Gothic poet; Milton, a magnificent
+imitator of old forms, which by his genius were wrought almost into the
+energy of new productions.
+
+I think Shakspeare is to Milton precisely what Gothic architecture is to
+Grecian, or rather to the warmest, most vitalized reproductions of the
+Grecian; there is in Milton a calm, severe majesty, a graceful and
+polished inflorescence of ornament, that produces, as you look upon it,
+a serene, long, strong ground-swell of admiration and approval. Yet
+there is a cold unity of expression, that calls into exercise only the
+very highest range of our faculties: there is none of that wreathed
+involution of smiles and tears, of solemn earnestness and quaint
+conceits; those sudden uprushings of grand and magnificent sentiment,
+like the flame-pointed arches of cathedrals; those ranges of fancy, half
+goblin, half human; those complications of dizzy magnificence with fairy
+lightness; those streamings of many-colored light; those carvings
+wherein every natural object is faithfully reproduced, yet combined into
+a kind of enchantment: the union of all these is in Shakspeare, and not
+in Milton. Milton had one most glorious phase of humanity in its
+perfection; Shakspeare had all united; from the "deep and dreadful"
+sub-bass of the organ to the most aerial warbling of its highest key,
+not a stop or pipe was wanting.
+
+But, in fine, at the end of all this we went back to our hotel to
+dinner. After dinner we set out to see the church. Even Walter Scott has
+not a more poetic monument than this church, standing as it does amid
+old, embowering trees, on the beautiful banks of the Avon. A soft, still
+rain was falling on the leaves of the linden trees, as we walked up the
+avenue to the church. Even rainy though it was, I noticed that many
+little birds would occasionally break out into song. In the event of
+such a phenomenon as a bright day, I think there must be quite a jubilee
+of birds here, even as he sung who lies below:--
+
+  "The ousel-cock, so black of hue,
+   With orange-tawny bill,
+  The throstle with his note so true,
+   The wren with little quill;
+  The finch, the sparrow, and the lark,
+   The plain-song cuckoo gray."
+
+The church has been carefully restored inside, so that it is now in
+excellent preservation, and Shakspeare lies buried under a broad, flat
+stone in the chancel. I had full often read, and knew by heart, the
+inscription on this stone; but somehow, when I came and stood over it,
+and read it, it affected me as if there were an emanation from the grave
+beneath. I have often wondered at that inscription, that a mind so
+sensitive, that had thought so much, and expressed thought with such
+startling power on all the mysteries of death, the grave, and the future
+world, should have found nothing else to inscribe on his own grave but
+this:--
+
+  Good Friend for Iesus SAKE forbare
+  To digg T-E Dust EncloAsed HERe
+  Blese be T-E Man T spares T-Es Stones
+                   Y
+  And curst be He T moves my Bones
+                  Y
+
+It seems that the inscription has not been without its use, in averting
+what the sensitive poet most dreaded; for it is recorded in one of the
+books sold here, that some years ago, in digging a neighboring grave, a
+careless sexton broke into the side of Shakspeare's tomb, and looking in
+saw his bones, and could easily have carried away the skull had he not
+been deterred by the imprecation.
+
+There is a monument in the side of the wall, which has a bust of
+Shakspeare upon it, said to be the most authentic likeness, and supposed
+to have been taken by a cast from his face after death. This statement
+was made to us by the guide who showed it, and he stated that Chantrey
+had come to that conclusion by a minute examination of the face. He took
+us into a room, where was an exact plaster cast of the bust, on which he
+pointed out various little minutiae on which this idea was founded. The
+two sides of the face are not alike; there is a falling in and
+depression of the muscles on one side which does not exist on the other,
+such as probably would never have occurred in a fancy bust, where the
+effort always is to render the two sides of the face as much alike as
+possible. There is more fulness about the lower part of the face than is
+consistent with the theory of an idealized bust, but is perfectly
+consistent with the probabilities of the time of life at which he died,
+and perhaps with the effects of the disease of which he died.
+
+All this I set down as it was related to me by our guide; it had a very
+plausible and probable sound, and I was bent on believing, which is a
+great matter in faith of all kinds.
+
+It is something in favor of the supposition that this is an authentic
+likeness, that it was erected in his own native town within seven years
+of his death, among people, therefore, who must have preserved the
+recollection of his personal appearance. After the manner of those times
+it was originally painted, the hair and beard of an auburn color, the
+eyes hazel, and the dress was represented as consisting of a scarlet
+doublet, over which was a loose black gown without sleeves; all which
+looks like an attempt to preserve an exact likeness. The inscription
+upon it, also, seemed to show that there were some in the world by no
+means unaware of who and what he was.
+
+Next to the tomb of Shakspeare in the chancel is buried his favorite
+daughter, over whom somebody has placed the following quaint
+inscription:--
+
+  "Witty above her sex, but that's not all,
+  Wise to salvation was good Mistress Hall.
+  Something of Shakspeare was in that, but this
+  Wholly of him, with whom she is now in bliss;
+  Then, passenger, hast ne'er a tear,
+  To weep with her that wept with, all--
+  That wept, yet set herself to cheer
+  Them, up with comfort's cordial?
+  Her lore shall live, her mercy spread,
+  When thou hast ne'er a tear to shed."
+
+This good Mistress Hall, it appears, was Shakspeare's favorite among his
+three children. His son, Hamet, died at twelve years of age. His
+daughter Judith, as appears from some curious document still extant,
+could not write her own name, but signed with her mark; so that the
+"wit" of the family must have concentrated itself in Mistress Hall. To
+her, in his last will, which is still extant, Shakspeare bequeathed an
+amount of houses, lands, plate, jewels, and other valuables, sufficient
+to constitute quite a handsome estate. It would appear, from this, that
+the poet deemed her not only "wise unto salvation," but wise in her day
+and generation, thus intrusting her with the bulk of his worldly goods.
+
+His wife, Ann Hathaway, is buried near by, under the same pavement. From
+the slight notice taken of her in the poet's will, it would appear that
+there was little love between them. He married her when he was but
+eighteen; most likely she was a mere rustic beauty, entirely incapable
+either of appreciating or adapting herself to that wide and wonderful
+mind in its full development.
+
+As to Mistress Hall, though the estate was carefully entailed, through
+her, to heirs male through all generations, it was not her good fortune
+to become the mother of a long line, for she had only one daughter, who
+became Lady Barnard, and in whom, dying childless, the family became
+extinct. Shakspeare, like Scott, seems to have had the desire to
+perpetuate himself by founding a family with an estate, and the
+coincidence in the result is striking. Genius must be its own monument.
+
+After we had explored the church we went out to walk about the place. We
+crossed the beautiful bridge over the Avon, and thought how lovely those
+fields and meadows would look, if they only had sunshine to set them
+out. Then we went to the town hall, where we met the mayor, who had
+kindly called and offered to show us the place.
+
+It seems, in 1768, that Garrick set himself to work in good earnest to
+do honor to Shakspeare's memory, by getting up a public demonstration at
+Stratford; and the world, through the talents of this actor, having
+become alive and enthusiastic, liberal subscriptions were made by the
+nobility and gentry, the town hall was handsomely repaired and adorned,
+and a statue of Shakspeare, presented by Garrick, was placed in a niche
+at one end. Then all the chief men and mighty men of the nation came and
+testified their reverence for the poet, by having a general jubilee. A
+great tent was spread on the banks of the Avon, where they made speeches
+and drank wine, and wound up all with a great dance in the town hall;
+and so the manes of Shakspeare were appeased, and his position settled
+for all generations. The room in the town hall is a very handsome one,
+and has pictures of Garrick, and the other notables who figured on that
+occasion.
+
+After that we were taken to see New Place. "And what is New Place?" you
+say; "the house where Shakspeare lived?" Not exactly; but a house built
+where his house was. This drawing is taken from an old print, and is
+supposed to represent the house as Shakspeare fitted it up.
+
+We went out into what was Shakspeare's garden, where we were shown his
+mulberry--not the one that he planted though, but a veritable mulberry
+planted on the same spot; and then we went back to our hotel very tired,
+but having conscientiously performed every jot and tittle of the duty of
+good pilgrims.
+
+As we sat, in the drizzly evening, over our comfortable tea table, C----
+ventured to intimate pretty decidedly that he considered the whole thing
+a bore; whereat I thought I saw a sly twinkle around the eyes and mouth
+of our most Christian and patient friend, Joseph Sturge. Mr. S.
+laughingly told him that he thought it the greatest exercise of
+Christian tolerance, that he should have trailed round in the mud with
+us all day in our sightseeing, bearing with our unreasonable raptures.
+He smiled, and said, quietly, "I must confess that I was a little
+pleased that our friend Harriet was so zealous to see Shakspeare's
+house, when it wasn't his house, and so earnest to get sprigs from his
+mulberry, when it wasn't his mulberry." We were quite ready to allow the
+foolishness of the thing, and join the laugh at our own expense.
+
+As to our bed rooms, you must know that all the apartments in this house
+are named after different plays of Shakspeare, the name being printed
+conspicuously over each door; so that the choosing of our rooms made us
+a little sport.
+
+"What rooms will you have, gentlemen?" says the pretty chamber maid.
+
+"Rooms," said Mr. S.; "why, what are there to have?"
+
+"Well, there's Richard III., and there's Hamlet," says the girl.
+
+"O, Hamlet, by all means," said I; "that was always my favorite. Can't
+sleep in Richard III., we should have such bad dreams."
+
+"For my part," said C----, "I want All's well that ends well."
+
+"I think," said the chamber maid, hesitating, "the bed in Hamlet isn't
+large enough for two. Richard III. is a very nice room, sir."
+
+In fact, it became evident that we were foreordained to Richard; so we
+resolved to embrace the modern historical view of this subject, which
+will before long turn him out a saint, and not be afraid of the muster
+roll of ghosts which Shakspeare represented as infesting his apartment.
+
+Well, for a wonder, the next morning arose a genuine sunny, beautiful
+day. Let the fact be recorded that such things do sometimes occur even
+in England. C---- was mollified, and began to recant his ill-natured
+heresies of the night before, and went so far as to walk, out of his own
+proper motion, to Ann Hathaway's Cottage before breakfast--he being one
+of the brethren described by Longfellow,
+
+  "Who is gifted with most miraculous powers
+  Of getting up at all sorts of hours;"
+
+and therefore he came in to breakfast table with that serenity of
+virtuous composure which generally attends those who have been out
+enjoying the beauties of nature while their neighbors have been
+ingloriously dozing.
+
+The walk, he said, was beautiful; the cottage damp, musty, and fusty;
+and a supposititious old bedstead, of the age of Queen Elizabeth, which
+had been obtruded upon his notice because it _might_ have belonged to
+Ann Hathaway's mother, received a special malediction. For my part, my
+relic-hunting propensities were not in the slightest degree appeased,
+but rather stimulated, by the investigations of the day before.
+
+It seemed to me so singular that of such a man there should not remain
+one accredited relic! Of Martin Luther, though he lived much earlier,
+how many things remain! Of almost any distinguished character how much
+more is known than of Shakspeare! There is not, so far as I can
+discover, an authentic relic of any thing belonging to him. There are
+very few anecdotes of his sayings or doings; no letters, no private
+memoranda, that should let us into the secret of what he was personally
+who has in turns personated all minds. The very perfection of his
+dramatic talent has become an impenetrable veil: we can no more tell
+from his writings what were his predominant tastes and habits than we
+can discriminate among the variety of melodies what are the native notes
+of the mocking bird. The only means left us for forming an opinion of
+what he was personally are inferences of the most delicate nature from,
+the slightest premises.
+
+The common idea which has pervaded the world, of a joyous, roving,
+somewhat unsettled, and dissipated character, would seem, from many
+well-authenticated facts, to be incorrect. The gayeties and dissipations
+of his life seem to have been confined to his very earliest days, and to
+have been the exuberance of a most extraordinary vitality, bursting into
+existence with such force and vivacity that it had not had time to
+collect itself, and so come to self-knowledge and control. By many
+accounts it would appear that the character he sustained in the last
+years of his life was that of a judicious, common-sense sort of man; a
+discreet, reputable, and religious householder.
+
+The inscription on his tomb is worthy of remark, as indicating the
+reputation he bore at the time: "_Judicio Pylium, genio Socratem, arte
+Maronem_" (In judgment a Nestor, in genius a Socrates, in art a
+Virgil.)
+
+The comparison of him in the first place to Nestor, proverbially famous
+for practical judgment and virtue of life, next to Socrates, who was a
+kind of Greek combination of Dr. Paley and Dr. Franklin, indicates a
+very different impression of him from what would generally be expressed
+of a poet, certainly what would not have been placed on the grave of an
+eccentric, erratic will-o'-the-wisp genius, however distinguished.
+Moreover, the pious author of good Mistress Hall's epitaph records the
+fact of her being "wise to salvation," as a more especial point of
+resemblance to her father than even her being "witty above her sex," and
+expresses most confident hope of her being with him in bliss. The
+Puritan tone of the epitaph, as well as the quality of the verse, gives
+reason to suppose that it was not written by one who was seduced into a
+tombstone lie by any superfluity of poetic sympathy.
+
+The last will of Shakspeare, written by his own hand and still
+preserved, shows several things of the man.
+
+The introduction is as follows:--
+
+"In the name of God. Amen. I, William Shakspeare, at
+Stratford-upon-Avon, in the county of Warwick, gentleman, in perfect
+health and memory, (God be praised,) do make and ordain this my last
+will and testament in manner and form following; that is to say,--
+
+"First, I commend my soul into the hands of God my Creator, hoping, and
+assuredly believing, through the only merits of Jesus Christ, my Savior,
+to be made partaker of life everlasting; and my body to the earth,
+whereof it is made."
+
+The will then goes on to dispose of an amount of houses, lands, plate,
+money, jewels, &c., which showed certainly that the poet had possessed
+some worldly skill and thrift in accumulation, and to divide them with
+a care and accuracy which would indicate that he was by no means of that
+dreamy and unpractical habit of mind which cares not what becomes of
+worldly goods.
+
+We may also infer something of a man's character from the tone and
+sentiments of others towards him. Glass of a certain color casts on
+surrounding objects a reflection of its own hue, and so the tint of a
+man's character returns upon us in the habitual manner in which he is
+spoken of by those around him. The common mode of speaking of Shakspeare
+always savored of endearment. "Gentle Will" is an expression that seemed
+oftenest repeated. Ben Jonson inscribed his funeral verses "To the
+Memory of _my beloved_ Mr. William Shakspeare;" he calls him the "sweet
+swan of Avon." Again, in his lines under a bust of Shakspeare, he
+says,--
+
+  "The figure that thou seest put,
+  It was for gentle Shakspeare cut."
+
+In later times Milton, who could have known him only by tradition, calls
+him "my Shakspeare," "dear son of memory," and "sweetest Shakspeare."
+Now, nobody ever wrote of sweet John Milton, or gentle John Milton, or
+gentle Martin Luther, or even sweet Ben Jonson.
+
+Rowe says of Shakspeare, "The latter part of his life was spent, as all
+men of good sense would wish theirs may be, in ease, retirement, and the
+conversation of his friends. His pleasurable wit and good nature engaged
+him in the acquaintance, and entitled him to the friendship, of the
+gentlemen of the neighborhood." And Dr. Drake says, "He was high in
+reputation as a poet, favored by the great and the accomplished, and
+beloved by all who knew him."
+
+That Shakspeare had religious principle, I infer not merely from the
+indications of his will and tombstone, but from those strong evidences
+of the working of the religious element which are scattered through his
+plays. No man could have a clearer perception of God's authority and
+man's duty; no one has expressed more forcibly the strength of God's
+government, the spirituality of his requirements, or shown with more
+fearful power the struggles of the "law in the members warring against
+the law of the mind."
+
+These evidences, scattered through his plays, of deep religious
+struggles, make probable the idea that, in the latter, thoughtful, and
+tranquil years of his life, devotional impulses might have settled into
+habits, and that the solemn language of his will, in which he professes
+his faith, in Christ, was not a mere form. Probably he had all his life,
+even in his gayest hours, more real religious principle than the
+hilarity of his manner would give reason to suppose. I always fancy he
+was thinking of himself when he wrote this character: "For the man doth
+fear God, howsoever it seem not in him by reason of some large jests he
+doth make."
+
+Neither is there any foundation for the impression that he was
+undervalued in his own times. No literary man of his day had more
+success, more flattering attentions from the great, or reaped more of
+the substantial fruits of popularity, in the form of worldly goods.
+While his contemporary, Ben Jonson, sick in a miserable alley, is forced
+to beg, and receives but a wretched pittance from Charles I.,
+Shakspeare's fortune steadily increases from year to year. He buys the
+best place in his native town, and fits it up with great taste; he
+offered to lend, on proper security, a sum of money for the use of the
+town of Stratford; he added to his estate in Stratford a hundred and
+seventy acres of land; he bought half the great and small tithes of
+Stratford; and his annual income is estimated to have been what would at
+the present time be nearly four thousand dollars.
+
+Queen Elizabeth also patronized him after her ordinary fashion of
+patronizing literary men,--that is to say, she expressed her gracious
+pleasure that he should burn incense to her, and pay his own bills:
+economy was not one of the least of the royal graces. The Earl of
+Southampton patronized him in a more material fashion.
+
+Queen Elizabeth even so far condescended to the poet as to perform
+certain hoidenish tricks while he was playing on the stage, to see if
+she could not disconcert his speaking by the majesty of her royal
+presence. The poet, who was performing the part of King Henry IV., took
+no notice of her motions, till, in order to bring him to a crisis, she
+dropped her glove at his feet; whereat he picked it up, and presented it
+her, improvising these two lines, as if they had been a part of the
+play:--
+
+  "And though, now bent on this high embassy,
+  Yet stoop we to take up our cousin's glove."
+
+I think this anecdote very characteristic of them both; it seems to me
+it shows that the poet did not so absolutely crawl in the dust before
+her, as did almost all the so called men of her court; though he did
+certainly flatter her after a fashion in which few queens can be
+flattered. His description of the belligerent old Gorgon as the "Fair
+Vestal throned by the West" seems like the poetry and fancy of the
+beautiful Fairy Queen wasted upon the half-brute clown:--
+
+  "Come, sit thee down upon this flowery bed,
+    While I thy amiable cheeks do coy,
+  And stick musk roses in thy sleek, smooth, head,
+    And kiss thy fair, large ears, my gentle joy."
+
+Elizabeth's understanding and appreciation of Shakspeare was much after
+the fashion of Nick Bottom's of the Fairy Queen. I cannot but believe
+that the men of genius who employed their powers in celebrating this
+most repulsive and disagreeable woman must sometimes have comforted
+themselves by a good laugh in private.
+
+In order to appreciate Shakspeare's mind from his plays, we must
+discriminate what expressed the gross tastes of his age, and what he
+wrote to please himself. The Merry Wives of Windsor was a specimen of
+what he wrote for the "Fair Vestal;" a commentary on the delicacy of her
+maiden meditations. The Midsummer Night's Dream he wrote from his own
+inner dream world.
+
+In the morning we took leave of our hotel. In leaving we were much
+touched with the simple kindliness of the people of the house. The
+landlady and her daughters came to bid us farewell, with much feeling;
+and the former begged my acceptance of a bead purse, knit by one of her
+daughters, she said, during the winter evenings while they were reading
+Uncle Tom. In this town one finds the simple-hearted, kindly English
+people corresponding to the same class which we see in our retired New
+England towns. We received many marks of kindness from different
+residents in Stratford; in the expression of them, they appreciated and
+entered into our desire for privacy with a delicacy which touched us
+sensibly.
+
+We had little time to look about us to see Stratford in the sunshine. So
+we went over to a place on the banks of the Avon, where, it was said, we
+could gain a very perfect view of the church. The remembrance of this
+spot is to me like a very pleasant dream. The day was bright, the air
+was soft and still, as we walked up and down the alleys of a beautiful
+garden that extended quite to the church; the rooks were dreamily
+cawing, and wheeling in dark, airy circles round the old buttresses and
+spire. A funeral train had come into the graveyard, and the passing bell
+was tolling. A thousand undefined emotions struggled in my mind.
+
+That loving heart, that active fancy, that subtile, elastic power of
+appreciating and expressing all phases, all passions of humanity, are
+they breathed out on the wind? are they spent like the lightning? are
+they exhaled like the breath of flowers? or are they still living, still
+active? and if so, where and how? Is it reserved for us, in that
+"undiscovered country" which he spoke of, ever to meet the great souls
+whose breath has kindled our souls?
+
+I think we forget the consequences of our own belief in immortality, and
+look on the ranks of prostrate dead as a mower on fields of prostrate
+flowers, forgetting that activity is an essential of souls, and that
+every soul which has passed away from this world must ever since have
+been actively developing those habits of mind and modes of feeling which
+it began here.
+
+The haughty, cruel, selfish Elizabeth, and all the great men of her
+court, are still living and acting somewhere; but where? For my part I
+am often reminded, when dwelling on departed genius, of Luther's
+ejaculation for his favorite classic poet: "I hope God will have mercy
+on such."
+
+We speak of the glory of God as exhibited in natural landscape making;
+what is it, compared with the glory of God as shown in the making of
+souls, especially those souls which seem to be endowed with a creative
+power like his own?
+
+There seems, strictly speaking, to be only two classes of souls--the
+creative and the receptive. Now, these creators seem to me to have a
+beauty and a worth about them entirely independent of their moral
+character. That ethereal power which shows itself in Greek sculpture and
+Gothic architecture, in Rubens, Shakspeare, and Mozart, has a quality to
+me inexpressibly admirable and lovable. We may say, it is true, that
+there is no moral excellence in it; but none the less do we admire it.
+God has made us so that we cannot help loving it; our souls go forth to
+it with an infinite longing, nor can that longing be condemned. That
+mystic quality that exists in these souls is a glimpse and intimation of
+what exists in Him in full perfection. If we remember this we shall not
+lose ourselves in admiration of worldly genius, but be led by it to a
+better understanding of what He is, of whom all the glories of poetry
+and art are but symbols and shadows.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+
+DEAR H.:--
+
+From Stratford we drove to Warwick, (or "Warrick," as they call it
+here.) This town stands on a rocky hill on the banks of the Avon, and is
+quite a considerable place, for it returns two members to Parliament,
+and has upwards of ten thousand inhabitants; and also has some famous
+manufactories of wool combing and spinning. But what we came to see was
+the castle. We drove up to the Warwick Arms, which is the principal
+hotel in the place; and, finding that we were within the hours appointed
+for exhibition, we went immediately.
+
+With my head in a kind of historical mist, full of images of York and
+Lancaster, and Red and White Roses, and Warwick the king maker, I looked
+up to the towers and battlements of the old castle. We went in through a
+passage way cut in solid rock, about twenty feet deep, and I should
+think fifty long. These walls were entirely covered with ivy, hanging
+down like green streamers; gentle and peaceable pennons these are,
+waving and whispering that the old war times are gone.
+
+At the end of this passage there is a drawbridge over what was formerly
+the moat, but which is now grassed and planted with shrubbery. Up over
+our heads we saw the great iron teeth of the portcullis. A rusty old
+giant it seemed up there, like Pope and Pagan in Pilgrim's Progress,
+finding no scope for himself in these peaceable times.
+
+When we came fairly into the court yard of the castle, a scene of
+magnificent beauty opened before us. I cannot describe it minutely. The
+principal features are the battlements, towers, and turrets of the old
+feudal castle, encompassed by grounds on which has been expended all
+that princely art of landscape gardening for which England is
+famous--leafy thickets, magnificent trees, openings, and vistas of
+verdure, and wide sweeps of grass, short, thick, and vividly green, as
+the velvet moss we sometimes see growing on rocks in New England. Grass
+is an art and a science in England--it is an institution. The pains that
+are taken in sowing, tending, cutting, clipping, rolling, and otherwise
+nursing and coaxing it, being seconded by the misty breath and often
+falling tears of the climate, produce results which must be seen to be
+appreciated.
+
+So again of trees in England. Trees here are an order of nobility; and
+they wear their crowns right kingly. A few years ago, when Miss Sedgwick
+was in this country, while admiring some splendid trees in a nobleman's
+park, a lady standing by said to her encouragingly, "O, well, I suppose
+your trees in America will be grown up after a while!" Since that time
+another style of thinking of America has come up, and the remark that I
+most generally hear made is, "O, I suppose we cannot think of showing
+you any thing in the way of trees, coming as you do from America!"
+Throwing out of account, however, the gigantic growth of our western
+river bottoms, where I have seen sycamore trunks twenty feet in
+diameter--leaving out of account, I say, all this mammoth arboria, these
+English parks have trees as fine and as effective, of their kind, as any
+of ours; and when I say their trees are an order of nobility, I mean
+that they pay a reverence to them such as their magnificence deserves.
+Such elms as adorn the streets of New Haven, or overarch the meadows of
+Andover, would in England be considered as of a value which no money
+could represent; no pains, no expense would be spared to preserve their
+life and health; they would never be shot dead by having gas pipes laid
+under them, as they have been in some of our New England towns; or
+suffered to be devoured by canker worms for want of any amount of money
+spent in their defence.
+
+Some of the finest trees in this place are magnificent cedars of
+Lebanon, which bring to mind the expression in Psalms, "Excellent as the
+cedars." They are the very impersonation of kingly majesty, and are
+fitted to grace the old feudal stronghold of Warwick the king maker.
+These trees, standing as they do amid magnificent sweeps and undulations
+of lawn, throwing out their mighty arms with such majestic breadth and
+freedom of outline, are themselves a living, growing, historical epic.
+Their seed was brought from Holy Land in the old days of the crusades;
+and a hundred legends might be made up of the time, date, and occasion
+of their planting. These crusades have left their mark every where
+through Europe, from the cross panel on the doors of common houses to
+the oriental touches and arabesques of castles and cathedrals.
+
+In the reign of Stephen there was a certain Roger de Newburg, second
+Earl of Warwick, who appears to have been an exceedingly active and
+public-spirited character; and, besides conquering part of Wales,
+founded in this neighborhood various priories and hospitals, among which
+was the house of the Templars, and a hospital for lepers. He made
+several pilgrimages to Holy Land; and so I think it as likely as most
+theories that he ought to have the credit of these cedars.
+
+These Earls of Warwick appear always to have been remarkably stirring
+men in their day and generation, and foremost in whatever was going on
+in the world, whether political or religious. To begin, there was Guy,
+Earl of Warwick, who lived somewhere in the times of the old
+dispensation, before King Arthur, and who distinguished himself,
+according to the fashion of those days, by killing giants and various
+colored dragons, among which a green one especially figures. It appears
+that he slew also a notable dun cow, of a kind of mastodon breed, which
+prevailed in those early days, which was making great havoc in the
+neighborhood. In later times, when the giants, dragons, and other
+animals of that sort were somewhat brought under, we find the Earls of
+Warwick equally busy burning and slaying to the right and left; now
+crusading into Palestine, and now fighting the French, who were a
+standing resort for activity when nothing else was to be done; with
+great versatility diversifying these affairs with pilgrimages to the
+holy sepulchre, and founding monasteries and hospitals. One stout earl,
+after going to Palestine and laying about him like a very dragon for
+some years, brought home a live Saracen king to London, and had him
+baptized and made a Christian of, _vi et armis_.
+
+During the scuffle of the Roses, it was a Warwick, of course, who was
+uppermost. Stout old Richard, the king maker, set up first one party and
+then the other, according to his own sovereign pleasure, and showed as
+much talent at fighting on both sides, and keeping the country in an
+uproar, as the modern politicians of America.
+
+When the times of the Long Parliament and the Commonwealth came, an Earl
+of Warwick was high admiral of England, and fought valiantly for the
+Commonwealth, using the navy on the popular side; and his grandson
+married the youngest daughter of Oliver Cromwell. When the royal family
+was to be restored, an Earl of Warwick was one of the six lords who were
+sent to Holland for Charles II. The earls of this family have been no
+less distinguished for movements which have favored the advance of
+civilization and letters than for energy in the battle field. In the
+reign of Queen Elizabeth an Earl of Warwick founded the History Lecture
+at Cambridge, and left a salary for the professor. This same earl was
+general patron of letters and arts, assisting many men of talents, and
+was a particular and intimate friend of Sir Philip Sidney.
+
+What more especially concerns us as New Englanders is, that an earl of
+this house was the powerful patron and protector of New England during
+the earlier years of our country. This was Robert Greville, the high
+admiral of England before alluded to, and ever looked upon as a
+protector of the Puritans. Frequent allusion is made to him in
+Winthrop's Journal as performing various good offices for them.
+
+The first grant of Connecticut was made to this earl, and by him
+assigned to Lord Say and Seal, and Lord Brooke. The patronage which this
+earl extended to the Puritans is more remarkable because in principle he
+was favorable to Episcopacy. It appears to have been prompted by a
+chivalrous sense of justice; probably the same which influenced old Guy
+of Warwick in the King Arthur times, of whom the ancient chronicler
+says, "This worshipful knight, in his acts of warre, ever consydered
+what parties had wronge, and therto would he drawe."
+
+The present earl has never taken a share in public or political life,
+but resided entirely on his estate, devoting himself to the improvement
+of his ground and tenants. He received the estate much embarrassed, and
+the condition of the tenantry was at that time quite depressed. By the
+devotion of his life it has been rendered one of the most flourishing
+and prosperous estates in this part of England. I have heard him spoken
+of as a very exemplary, excellent man. He is now quite advanced, and has
+been for some time in failing health. He sent our party a very kind and
+obliging message, desiring that we would consider ourselves fully at
+liberty to visit any part of the grounds or castle, there being always
+some reservation as to what tourists may visit.
+
+We caught glimpses of him once or twice, supported by attendants, as he
+was taking the air in one of the walks of the grounds, and afterwards
+wheeled about in a garden chair.
+
+The family has thrice died out in the direct line, and been obliged to
+resuscitate through collateral branches; but it seems the blood holds
+good notwithstanding. As to honors there is scarcely a possible
+distinction in the state or army that has not at one time or other been
+the property of this family.
+
+Under the shade of these lofty cedars they have sprung and fallen, an
+hereditary line of princes. One cannot but feel, in looking on these
+majestic trees, with the battlements, turrets, and towers of the old
+castle every where surrounding him, and the magnificent parks and lawns
+opening through dreamy vistas of trees into what seems immeasurable
+distance, the force of the soliloquy which Shakspeare puts into the
+mouth of the dying old king maker, as he lies breathing out his soul in
+the dust and blood of the battle field:--
+
+  "Thus yields the cedar to the axe's edge,
+  Whose arms gave shelter to the princely eagle,
+  Under whose shade the rampant lion slept;
+  Whose top branch overpeered Jove's spreading tree,
+  And kept low shrubs from, winter's powerful wind.
+  These eyes, that now are dimmed with death's black veil,
+  Have been as piercing as the midday sun
+  To search, the secret treasons of the world:
+  The wrinkles in my brow, now filled with blood,
+  Were likened oft to kingly sepulchres;
+  For who lived king but I could dig his grave?
+  And who durst smile when Warwick bent his brow?
+  Lo, now my glory smeared in dust and blood!
+  My parks, my walks, my manors that I had,
+  Even now forsake me; and of all my lands
+  Is nothing left me but my body's length!
+  Why, what is pomp, rule, reign, but earth and dust?
+  And live we how we can, yet die we must."
+
+During Shakspeare's life Warwick was in the possession of Greville, the
+friend of Sir Philip Sidney, and patron of arts and letters. It is not,
+therefore, improbable that Shakspeare might, in his times, often have
+been admitted to wander through the magnificent grounds, and it is more
+than probable that the sight of these majestic cedars might have
+suggested the noble image in this soliloquy. It is only about eight
+miles from Stratford, within the fair limits of a comfortable pedestrian
+excursion, and certainly could not but have been an object of deep
+interest to such a mind as his.
+
+I have described the grounds first, but, in fact, we did not look at
+them first, but went into the house where we saw not only all the state
+rooms, but, through the kindness of the noble proprietor, many of those
+which are not commonly exhibited; a bewildering display of magnificent
+apartments, pictures, gems, vases, arms and armor, antiques, all, in
+short, that the wealth of a princely and powerful family had for
+centuries been accumulating.
+
+The great hall of the castle is sixty-two feet in length and forty in
+breadth, ornamented with a richly carved Gothic roof, in which figures
+largely the family cognizance of the bear and ragged staff. There is a
+succession of shields, on which are emblazoned the quarterings of
+successive Earls of Warwick. The sides of the wall are ornamented with
+lances, corselets, shields, helmets, and complete suits of armor,
+regularly arranged as in an armory. Here I learned what the buff coat
+is, which had so often puzzled me in reading Scott's descriptions, as
+there were several hanging up here. It seemed to be a loose doublet of
+chamois leather, which was worn under the armor, and protected the body
+from its harshness.
+
+Here we saw the helmet of Cromwell, a most venerable relic. Before the
+great, cavernous fireplace was piled up on a sled a quantity of yew tree
+wood. The rude simplicity of thus arranging it on the polished floor of
+this magnificent apartment struck me as quite singular. I suppose it is
+a continuation of some ancient custom.
+
+Opening from this apartment on either side are suits of rooms, the whole
+series being three hundred and thirty-three feet in length. These rooms
+are all hung with pictures, and studded with antiques and curiosities of
+immense value. There is, first, the red drawing room, and then the cedar
+drawing room, then the gilt drawing room, the state bed room, the
+boudoir, &c., &c., hung with pictures by Vandyke, Rubens, Guido, Sir
+Joshua Reynolds, Paul Veronese, any one of which would require days of
+study; of course, the casual glance that one could give them in a rapid
+survey would not amount to much.
+
+We were shown one table of gems and lapis lazuli, which cost what would
+be reckoned a comfortable fortune in New England. For matters of this
+kind I have little sympathy. The canvas, made vivid by the soul of an
+inspired artist, tells me something of God's power in creating that
+soul; but a table of gems is in no wise interesting to me, except so far
+as it is pretty in itself.
+
+I walked to one of the windows of these lordly apartments, and while the
+company were examining buhl cabinets, and all other deliciousness of the
+place, I looked down the old gray walls into the amber waters of the
+Avon, which flows at their base, and thought that the most beautiful of
+all was without. There is a tiny fall that crosses the river just above
+here, whose waters turn the wheels of an old mossy mill, where for
+centuries the family grain has been ground. The river winds away through
+the beautiful parks and undulating foliage, its soft, grassy banks
+dotted here and there with sheep and cattle, and you catch farewell
+gleams and glitters of it as it loses itself among the trees.
+
+Gray moss, wall flowers, ivy, and grass were growing here and there out
+of crevices in the castle walls, as I looked down, sometimes trailing
+their rippling tendrils in the river. This vegetative propensity of
+walls is one of the chief graces of these old buildings.
+
+In the state bed room were a bed and furnishings of rich, crimson
+velvet, once belonging to Queen Anne, and presented by George III. to
+the Warwick family. The walls are hung with Brussels tapestry,
+representing the gardens of Versailles as they were at the time. The
+chimney-piece, which is sculptured of verde antique and white marble,
+supports two black marble vases on its mantel. Over the mantel-piece is
+a full-length portrait of Queen Anne, in a rich brocade dress, wearing
+the collar and jewels of the Garter, bearing in one hand a sceptre, and
+in the other a globe. There are two splendid buhl cabinets in the room,
+and a table of costly stone from Italy; it is mounted on a richly carved
+and gilt stand.
+
+The boudoir, which adjoins, is hung with pea-green satin and velvet. In
+this room is one of the most authentic portraits of Henry VIII., by
+Holbein, in which that selfish, brutal, unfeeling tyrant is veritably
+set forth, with all the gold and gems which, in his day, blinded
+mankind; his fat, white hands were beautifully painted. Men have found
+out Henry VIII. by this time; he is a dead sinner, and nothing more is
+to be expected of him, and so he gets a just award; but the disposition
+which bows down and worships any thing of any character in our day which
+is splendid and successful, and excuses all moral delinquencies, if they
+are only available, is not a whit better than that which cringed before
+Henry.
+
+In the same room was a boar hunt, by Rubens, a disagreeable subject, but
+wrought with wonderful power. There were several other pictures of
+Holbein's in this room; one of Martin Luther.
+
+We passed through a long corridor, whose sides were lined with pictures,
+statues, busts, &c. Out of the multitude, three particularly interested
+me; one was a noble but melancholy bust of the Black Prince, beautifully
+chiselled in white marble; another was a plaster cast, said to have been
+taken of the face of Oliver Cromwell immediately after death. The face
+had a homely strength amounting almost to coarseness. The evidences of
+its genuineness appear in glancing at it; every thing is authentic, even
+to the wart on his lip; no one would have imagined such a one, but the
+expression was noble and peaceful, bringing to mind the oft-quoted
+words,--
+
+  "After life's fitful fever, he sleeps well."
+
+At the end of the same corridor is a splendid picture of Charles I. on
+horseback, by Vandyke, a most masterly performance, and appearing in its
+position almost like a reality. Poor Charles had rather hard measure, it
+always seemed to me. He simply did as all other princes had done before
+him; that is to say, he lied steadily, invariably, and conscientiously,
+in every instance where he thought he could gain any thing by it, just
+as Charles V., and Francis IV., and Catharine de Medicis, and Henry
+VIII., and Elizabeth, and James, and all good royal folks had always
+done; and lo! _he_ must lose his head for it. His was altogether a more
+gentlemanly and respectable performance than that of Henry, not wanting
+in a sort of ideal magnificence, which his brutal predecessor, or even
+his shambling old father never dreamed of. But so it is; it is not
+always on those who are sinners above all men that the tower of Siloam
+falls, but only on those who happen to be under it when its time comes.
+So I intend to cherish a little partiality for gentlemanly, magnificent
+Charles I.; and certainly one could get no more splendid idea of him
+than by seeing him stately, silent, and melancholy on his white horse,
+at the end of this long corridor. There he sits, facing the calm, stony,
+sleeping face of Oliver, and neither question or reply passes between
+them.
+
+From this corridor we went into the chapel, whose Gothic windows, filled
+with rich, old painted glass, cast a many-colored light over the
+oak-carved walls and altar-piece. The ceiling is of fine, old oak,
+wrought with the arms of the family. The window over the altar is the
+gift of the Earl of Essex. This room is devoted to the daily religious
+worship of the family. It has been the custom of the present earl in
+former years to conduct the devotions of the family here himself.
+
+About this time my head and eyes came to that point which Solomon
+intimates to be not commonly arrived at by mortals--when the eye is
+satisfied with seeing. I remember a confused ramble through apartment
+after apartment, but not a single thing in them, except two pictures of
+Salvator Rosa's, which I thought extremely ugly, and was told, as people
+always are when they make such declarations, that the difficulty was
+entirely in myself, and that if I would study them two or three months
+in faith, I should perceive something very astonishing. This may be, but
+it holds equally good of the coals of an evening fire, or the sparks on
+a chimney back; in either of which, by resolute looking, and some
+imagination, one can see any thing he chooses. I utterly distrust this
+process, by which old black pictures are looked into shape; but then I
+have nothing to lose, being in the court of the Gentiles in these
+matters, and obstinately determined not to believe in any real presence
+in art which I cannot perceive by my senses.
+
+After having examined all the upper stories, we went down into the
+vaults underneath--vaults once grim and hoary, terrible to captives and
+feudal enemies, now devoted to no purpose more grim than that of coal
+cellars and wine vaults. In Oliver's time, a regiment was quartered
+there: they are extensive enough, apparently, for an army.
+
+The kitchen and its adjuncts are of magnificent dimensions, and indicate
+an amplitude in the way of provision for good cheer worthy an ancient
+house; and what struck me as a still better feature was a library of
+sound, sensible, historical, and religious works for the servants.
+
+We went into the beer vaults, where a man drew beer into a long black
+jack, such as Scott describes. It is a tankard, made of black leather, I
+should think half a yard deep. He drew the beer from a large hogshead,
+and offered us some in a glass. It looked very clear, but, on tasting, I
+found it so exceedingly bitter that it struck me there would be small
+virtue for me in abstinence.
+
+In passing up to go out of the house, we met in the entry two
+pleasant-looking young women, dressed in white muslin. As they passed
+us, a door opened where a table was handsomely set out, at which quite a
+number of well-dressed people were seating themselves. I withdrew my
+eyes immediately, fearing lest I had violated some privacy. Our
+conductor said to us, "That is the upper servants' dining room."
+
+Once in the yard again, we went to see some of the older parts of the
+building. The oldest of these, Caesar's Tower, which is said to go back
+to the time of the Romans, is not now shown to visitors. Beneath it is a
+dark, damp dungeon, where prisoners used to be confined, the walls of
+which are traced all over with inscriptions and rude drawings.
+
+Then you are conducted to Guy's Tower, named, I suppose, after the hero
+of the green dragon and dun cow. Here are five tiers of guard rooms, and
+by the ascent of a hundred and thirty-three steps you reach the
+battlements, where you gain a view of the whole court and grounds, as
+well as of the beautiful surrounding landscape.
+
+In coming down from this tower, we somehow or other got upon the
+ramparts, which connect it with the great gate. We walked on the wall
+four abreast, and played that we were knights and ladies of the olden
+time, walking on the ramparts. And I picked a bough from an old pine
+tree that grew over our heads; it much resembled our American yellow
+pitch pine.
+
+Then we went down and crossed the grounds to the greenhouse, to see the
+famous Warwick vase. The greenhouse is built with a Gothic stone front,
+situated on a fine point in the landscape. And there, on a pedestal,
+surrounded by all manner of flowering shrubs, stands this celebrated
+antique. It is of white marble, and was found at the bottom of a lake
+near Adrian's villa, in Italy. They say that it holds a hundred and
+thirty-six gallons; constructed, I suppose, in the roistering old
+drinking times of the Roman emperors, when men seem to have discovered
+that the grand object for which they were sent into existence was to
+perform the functions of wine skins. It is beautifully sculptured with
+grape leaves, and the skin and claws of the panther--these latter
+certainly not an inappropriate emblem of the god of wine, beautiful, but
+dangerous.
+
+Well, now it was all done. Merodach Baladan had not a more perfect
+_exposé_ of the riches of Hezekiah than we had of the glories of
+Warwick. One always likes to see the most perfect thing of its kind; and
+probably this is the most perfect specimen of the feudal ages yet
+remaining in England.
+
+As I stood with Joseph Sturge under the old cedars of Lebanon, and
+watched the multitude of tourists, and parties of pleasure, who were
+thronging the walks, I said to him, "After all, this establishment
+amounts to a public museum and pleasure grounds for the use of the
+people." He assented. "And," said I, "you English people like these
+things; you like these old magnificent seats, kept up by old families."
+"That is what I tell them," said Joseph Sturge. "I tell them there is no
+danger in enlarging the suffrage, for the people would not break up
+these old establishments if they could." On that point, of course, I had
+no means of forming an opinion.
+
+One cannot view an institution so unlike any thing we have in our own
+country without having many reflections excited, for one of these
+estates may justly be called an institution; it includes within itself
+all the influence on a community of a great model farm, of model
+housekeeping, of a general museum of historic remains, and of a gallery
+of fine arts.
+
+It is a fact that all these establishments through England are, at
+certain fixed hours, thrown open for the inspection of whoever may
+choose to visit them, with no other expense than the gratuity which
+custom requires to be given to the servant who shows them. I noticed, as
+we passed from one part of the ground to another, that our guides
+changed--one part apparently being the perquisite of one servant, and
+one of another. Many of the servants who showed them appeared to be
+superannuated men, who probably had this post as one of the dignities
+and perquisites of their old age.
+
+The influence of these estates on the community cannot but be in many
+respects beneficial, and should go some way to qualify the prejudice
+with which republicans are apt to contemplate any thing aristocratic;
+for although the legal title to these things inheres in but one man, yet
+in a very important sense they belong to the whole community, indeed, to
+universal humanity. It may be very undesirable and unwise to wish to
+imitate these institutions in America, and yet it may be illiberal to
+undervalue them as they stand in England. A man would not build a house,
+in this nineteenth century, on the pattern of a feudal castle; and yet
+where the feudal castle is built, surely its antique grace might plead
+somewhat in its favor, and it may be better to accommodate it to modern
+uses, than to level it, and erect a modern mansion in its place.
+
+Nor, since the world is wide, and now being rapidly united by steam into
+one country, does the objection to these things, on account of the room
+they take up, seem so great as formerly. In the million of square miles
+of the globe there is room enough for all sorts of things.
+
+With such reflections the lover of the picturesque may comfort himself,
+hoping that he is not sinning against the useful in his admiration of
+the beautiful.
+
+One great achievement of the millennium, I trust, will be in uniting
+these two elements, which have ever been contending. There was great
+significance in the old Greek fable which represented Venus as the
+divinely-appointed helpmeet of Vulcan, and yet always quarrelling with
+him.
+
+We can scarce look at the struggling, earth-bound condition of useful
+labor through the world without joining in the beautiful aspiration of
+our American poet,--
+
+  "Surely, the wiser time shall come
+     When this fine overplus of might,
+  No longer sullen, slow, and dumb,
+    Shall leap to music and to light.
+
+  In that new childhood of the world
+    Life of itself shall dance and play,
+  Fresh blood through Time's shrunk veins be hurled,
+    And labor meet delight half way."[M]
+
+In the new state of society which we are trying to found in America, it
+must be our effort to hasten the consummation. These great estates of
+old countries may keep it for their share of the matter to work out
+perfect models, while we will seize the ideas thus elaborated, and make
+them the property of the million.
+
+As we were going out, we stopped a little while at the porter's lodge to
+look at some relics.
+
+Now, I dare say that you have been thinking, all the while, that these
+stories about the wonderful Guy are a sheer fabrication, or, to use a
+convenient modern term, a myth. Know, then, that the identical armor
+belonging to him is still preserved here; to wit, the sword, about
+seven feet long, a shield, helmet, breastplate, and tilting pole,
+together with his porridge pot, which holds one hundred and twenty
+gallons, and a large fork, as they call it, about three feet long; I am
+inclined to think this must have been his toothpick! His sword weighs
+twenty pounds.
+
+There is, moreover, a rib of the mastodon cow which he killed, hung up
+for the terror of all refractory beasts of that name in modern days.
+
+Furthermore, know, then, that there are authentic documents in the
+Ashmolean Museum, at Oxford, showing that the family run back to within
+four years after the birth of Christ, so that there is abundance of time
+for them to have done a little of almost every thing. It appears that
+they have been always addicted to exploits, since we read of one of
+them, soon after the Christian era, encountering a giant, who ran upon
+him with a tree which he had snapped off for the purpose, for it seems
+giants were not nice in the choice of weapons; but the chronicler says,
+"The Lord had grace with him, and overcame the giant," and in
+commemoration of this event the family introduced into their arms the
+ragged staff.
+
+It is recorded of another of the race, that he was one of seven children
+born at a birth, and that all the rest of his brothers and sisters were,
+by enchantment, turned into swans with gold collars. This remarkable
+case occurred in the time of the grandfather of Sir Guy, and of course,
+if we believe this, we shall find no difficulty in the case of the cow,
+or any thing else.
+
+There is a very scarce book in the possession of a gentleman of Warwick,
+written by one Dr. John Kay, or caius, in which he gives an account of
+the rare and peculiar animals of England in 1552. In this he mentioned
+seeing the bones of the head and the vertebrae of the neck of an
+enormous animal at Warwick Castle. He states that the shoulder blade was
+hung up by chains from the north gate of Coventry, and that a rib of the
+same animal was hanging up in the chapel of Guy, Earl of Warwick, and
+that the people fancied it to be the rib of a cow which haunted a ditch
+near Coventry, and did injury to many persons; and he goes on to imagine
+that this may be the bone of a bonasus or a urus. He says, "It is
+probable many animals of this kind formerly lived in our England, being
+of old an island full of woods and forests, because even in our boyhood
+the horns of these animals were in common use at the table." The story
+of Sir Guy is furthermore quite romantic, and contains some
+circumstances very instructive to all ladies. For the chronicler
+asserts, "that Dame Felye, daughter and heire to Erle Rohand, for her
+beauty called Fely le Belle, or Felys the Fayre, by true enheritance,
+was Countesse of Warwyke, and lady and wyfe to the most victoriouse
+Knight, Sir Guy, to whom in his woing tyme she made greate straungeres,
+and caused him, for her sake, to put himself in meny greate distresses,
+dangers, and perills; but when they were wedded, and b'en but a little
+season together, he departed from her, to her greate hevynes, and never
+was conversant with her after, to her understandinge." That this may not
+appear to be the result of any revengeful spirit on the part of Sir Guy,
+the chronicler goes on further to state his motives--that, after his
+marriage, considering what he had done for a woman's sake, he thought to
+spend the other part of his life for God's sake, and so departed from
+his lady in pilgrim weeds, which raiment he kept to his life's end.
+After wandering about a good many years he settled in a hermitage, in a
+place not far from the castle, called Guy's Cliff, and when his lady
+distributed food to beggars at the castle gate, was in the habit of
+coming among them to receive alms, without making himself known to her.
+It states, moreover, that two days before his death an angel informed
+him of the time of his departure, and that his lady would die a
+fortnight after him, which happening accordingly, they were both buried
+in the grave together. A romantic cavern, at the place called Guy's
+Cliff, is shown as the dwelling of the recluse. The story is a curious
+relic of the religious ideas of the times.
+
+On our way from the castle we passed by Guy's Cliff, which is at present
+the seat of the Hon. C.B. Percy. The establishment looked beautifully
+from the road, as we saw it up a long avenue of trees; it is one of the
+places travellers generally examine, but as we were bound for Kenilworth
+we were content to take it on trust. It is but a short drive from there
+to Kenilworth. We got there about the middle of the afternoon.
+Kenilworth has been quite as extensive as Warwick, though now entirely
+gone to ruins. I believe Oliver Cromwell's army have the credit of
+finally dismantling it. Cromwell seems literally to have left his mark
+on his generation, for I never saw a ruin in England when I did not hear
+that he had something to do with it. Every broken arch and ruined
+battlement seemed always to find a sufficient account of itself by
+simply enunciating the word Cromwell. And when we see how much the
+Puritans arrayed against themselves all the æsthetic principles of our
+nature, we can somewhat pardon those who did not look deeper than the
+surface, for the prejudice with which they regarded the whole movement;
+a movement, however, of which we, and all which is most precious to us,
+are the lineal descendants and heirs.
+
+We wandered over the ruins, which are very extensive, and which Scott,
+with his usual vivacity and accuracy, has restored and repeopled. We
+climbed up into Amy Robsart's chamber; we scrambled into one of the
+arched windows of what was formerly the great dining hall, where
+Elizabeth feasted in the midst of her lords and ladies, and where every
+stone had rung to the sound of merriment and revelry. The windows are
+broken out; it is roofless and floorless, waving and rustling with
+pendent ivy, and vocal with the song of hundreds of little birds.
+
+We wandered from room to room, looking up and seeing in the walls the
+desolate fireplaces, tier over tier, the places where the beams of the
+floors had gone into the walls, and still the birds continued their
+singing every where.
+
+Nothing affected me more than this ceaseless singing and rejoicing of
+birds in these old gray ruins. They seemed so perfectly joyous and happy
+amid the desolations, so airy and fanciful in their bursts of song, so
+ignorant and careless of the deep meaning of the gray desolation around
+them, that I could not but be moved. It was nothing to them how these
+stately, sculptured walls became lonely and ruinous, and all the weight
+of a thousand thoughts and questionings which arise to us is never even
+dreamed by them. They sow not, neither do they reap, but their heavenly
+Father feeds them; and so the wilderness and the desolate place is glad
+in them, and they are glad in the wilderness and desolate place.
+
+It was a beautiful conception, this making of birds. Shelley calls them
+"imbodied joys;" and Christ says, that amid the vaster ruins of man's
+desolation, ruins more dreadfully suggestive than those of sculptured
+frieze and architrave, we can yet live a bird's life of unanxious joy;
+or, as Martin Luther beautifully paraphrases it, "We can be like a bird,
+that sits singing on his twig and lets God think for him."
+
+The deep consciousness that we are ourselves ruined, and that this world
+is a desolation more awful, and of more sublime material, and wrought
+from stuff of higher temper than ever was sculptured in hall or
+cathedral, this it must be that touches such deep springs of sympathy in
+the presence of ruins. We, too, are desolate, shattered, and scathed;
+there are traceries and columns of celestial workmanship; there are
+heaven-aspiring arches, splendid colonnades and halls, but fragmentary
+all. Yet above us bends an all-pitying Heaven, and spiritual voices and
+callings in our hearts, like these little singing birds, speak of a time
+when almighty power shall take pleasure in these stones, and favor the
+dust thereof.
+
+We sat on the top of the strong tower, and looked off into the country,
+and talked a good while. Some of the ivy that mantles this building has
+a trunk as large as a man's body, and throws out numberless strong arms,
+which, interweaving, embrace and interlace half-falling towers, and hold
+them up in a living, growing mass of green.
+
+The walls of one of the oldest towers are sixteen feet thick. The lake,
+which Scott speaks of, is dried up and grown over with rushes. The
+former moat presents only a grassy hollow. What was formerly a gate
+house is still inhabited by the family who have the care of the
+building. The land around the gate house is choicely and carefully laid
+out, and has high, clipped hedges of a species of variegated holly.
+
+Thus much of old castles and ivy. Farewell to Kenilworth.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+
+MY DEAR H.:--
+
+After leaving Kenilworth we drove to Coventry, where we took the cars
+again. This whole ride from Stratford to Warwick, and on to Coventry,
+answers more to my ideas of old England than any thing I have seen; it
+is considered one of the most beautiful parts of the kingdom. It has
+quaint old houses, and a certain air of rural, picturesque quiet, which
+is very charming.
+
+Coventry is old and queer, with narrow streets and curious houses, famed
+for the ancient legend of Godiva, one of those beautiful myths that
+grow, like the mistletoe, on the bare branches of history, and which, if
+they never were true in the letter, have been a thousand times true in
+the spirit.
+
+The evening came on raw and chilly, so that we rejoiced to find
+ourselves once more in the curtained parlor by the bright, sociable
+fire.
+
+As we were drinking tea Elihu Burritt came in. It was the first time I
+had ever seen him, though I had heard a great deal of him from our
+friends in Edinburgh. He is a man in middle life, tall and slender, with
+fair complexion, blue eyes, an air of delicacy and refinement, and
+manners of great gentleness. My ideas of the "Learned Blacksmith" had
+been of something altogether more ponderous and peremptory. Elihu has
+been, for some years, operating in England and on the continent in a
+movement which many, in our half-Christianized times, regard with as
+much incredulity as the grim, old, warlike barons did the suspicious
+imbecilities of reading and writing. The sword now, as then, seems so
+much more direct a way to terminate controversies, that many Christian
+men, even, cannot conceive how the world is to get along without it.
+
+Burritt's mode of operation has been by the silent organization of
+circles of ladies in all the different towns of the United Kingdom, who
+raise a certain sum for the diffusion of the principles of peace on
+earth and good will to men. Articles, setting forth the evils of war,
+moral, political, and social, being prepared, these circles pay for
+their insertion in all the principal newspapers of the continent. They
+have secured to themselves in this way a continual utterance in France,
+Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, and Germany; so that from week to
+week, and month to month, they can insert articles upon these subjects.
+Many times the editors insert the articles as editorial, which still
+further favors their design. In addition to this, the ladies of these
+circles in England correspond with the ladies of similar circles
+existing in other countries; and in this way there is a mutual
+kindliness of feeling established through these countries.
+
+When recently war was threatening between England and France, through
+the influence of these societies conciliatory addresses were sent from
+many of the principal towns of England to many of the principal towns of
+France; and the effect of these measures in allaying irritation and
+agitation was very perceptible.
+
+Furthermore, these societies are preparing numerous little books for
+children, in which the principles of peace, kindness, and mutual
+forbearance are constantly set forth, and the evil and unchristian
+nature of the mere collision of brute force exemplified in a thousand
+ways. These tracts also are reprinted in the other modern languages of
+Europe, and are becoming a part of family literature.
+
+The object had in view by those in this movement is, the general
+disbandment of standing armies and warlike establishments, and the
+arrangement, in their place, of some settled system of national
+arbitration. They suggest the organization of some tribunal of
+international law, which shall correspond to the position of the Supreme
+Court of the United States with reference to the several states. The
+fact that the several states of our Union, though each a distinct
+sovereignty, yet agree in this arrangement, is held up as an instance of
+its practicability. These ideas are not to be considered entirely
+chimerical, if we reflect that commerce and trade are as essentially
+opposed to war as is Christianity. War is the death of commerce,
+manufactures, agriculture, and the fine arts. Its evil results are
+always certain and definite, its good results scattered and accidental.
+The whole current of modern society is as much against war as against
+slavery; and the time must certainly come when some more rational and
+humane mode of resolving national difficulties will prevail.
+
+When we ask these reformers how people are to be freed from the yoke of
+despotism without war, they answer, "By the diffusion of ideas among the
+masses--by teaching the bayonets to think." They say, "If we convince
+every individual soldier of a despot's army that war is ruinous,
+immoral, and unchristian, we take the instrument out of the tyrant's
+hand. If each individual man would refuse to rob and murder for the
+Emperor of Austria, and the Emperor of Russia, where would be their
+power to hold Hungary? What gave power to the masses in the French
+revolution, but that the army, pervaded by new ideas, refused any
+longer to keep the people down?"
+
+These views are daily gaining strength in England. They are supported by
+the whole body of the Quakers, who maintain them with that degree of
+inflexible perseverance and never-dying activity which have rendered the
+benevolent actions of that body so efficient. The object that they are
+aiming at is one most certain to be accomplished, infallible as the
+prediction that swords are to be beaten into ploughshares, and spears
+into pruning-hooks, and that nations shall learn war no more.
+
+This movement, small and despised in its origin, has gained strength
+from year to year, and now has an effect on the public opinion of
+England which is quite perceptible.
+
+We spent the evening in talking over these things, and also various
+topics relating to the antislavery movement. Mr. Sturge was very
+confident that something more was to be done than had ever been done
+yet, by combinations for the encouragement of free, in the place of
+slave-grown, produce; a question which has, ever since the days of
+Clarkson, more or less deeply occupied the minds of abolitionists in
+England.
+
+I should say that Mr. Sturge in his family has for many years
+conscientiously forborne the use of any article produced by slave labor.
+I could scarcely believe it possible that there could be such an
+abundance and variety of all that is comfortable and desirable in the
+various departments of household living within these limits. Mr. Sturge
+presents the subject with very great force, the more so from the
+consistency of his example.
+
+From what I have since observed, as well as from what they said, I
+should imagine that the Quakers generally pursue this course of entire
+separation from all connection with slavery, even in the disuse of its
+products. The subject of the disuse of slave-grown produce has obtained
+currency in the same sphere in which Elihu Burritt operates, and has
+excited the attention of the Olive Leaf Circles. Its prospects are not
+so weak as on first view might be imagined, if we consider that Great
+Britain has large tracts of cotton-growing land at her disposal in
+India. It has been calculated that, were suitable railroads and
+arrangements for transportation provided for India, cotton could be
+raised in that empire sufficient for the whole wants of England, at a
+rate much cheaper than it can be imported from America. Not only so, but
+they could then afford to furnish cotton cheaper at Lowell than the same
+article could be procured from the Southern States.
+
+It is consolatory to know that a set of men have undertaken this work
+whose perseverance in any thing once begun has never been daunted. Slave
+labor is becoming every year more expensive in America. The wide market
+which has been opened for it has raised it to such an extravagant price
+as makes the stocking of a plantation almost ruinous. If England enters
+the race with free labor, which has none of these expenses, and none of
+the risk, she will be sure to succeed. All the forces of nature go with
+free labor; and all the forces of nature resist slave labor. The stars
+in their courses fight against it; and it cannot but be that ere long
+some way will be found to bring these two forces to a decisive issue.
+
+Mr. Sturge seemed exceedingly anxious that the American states should
+adopt the theory of immediate, and not gradual, emancipation. I told him
+the great difficulty was to persuade them to think of any emancipation
+at all; that the present disposition was to treat slavery as the pillar
+and ground of the truth, the ark of religion, the summary of morals,
+and the only true millennial form of modern society.
+
+He gave me, however, a little account of their antislavery struggles in
+England, and said, what was well worthy of note, that they made no
+apparent progress in affecting public opinion until they firmly
+advocated the right of every innocent being to immediate and complete
+freedom, without any conditions. He said that a woman is fairly entitled
+to the credit of this suggestion. Elizabeth Heyrick of Leicester, a
+member of the society of Friends, published a pamphlet entitled
+Immediate, not Gradual Emancipation. This little pamphlet contains much
+good sense; and, being put forth at a time when men were really anxious
+to know the truth, produced a powerful impression.
+
+She remarked, very sensibly, that the difficulty had arisen from
+indistinct ideas in respect to what is implied in emancipation. She went
+on to show that emancipation did not imply freedom from government and
+restraint; that it properly brought a slave under the control of the
+law, instead of that of an individual; and that it was possible so to
+apply law as perfectly to control the emancipated. This is an idea which
+seems simple enough when pointed out; but men often stumble a long while
+before they discover what is most obvious.
+
+The next day was Sunday; and, in order to preserve our incognito, and
+secure an uninterrupted rest, free from conversation and excitement, we
+were obliged to deprive ourselves of the pleasure of hearing our friend
+Rev. John Angell James, which we had much desired to do.
+
+It was a warm, pleasant day, and we spent much of our time in a
+beautiful arbor constructed in a retired place in the garden, where the
+trees and shrubbery were so arranged as to make a most charming retreat.
+
+The grounds of Mr. Sturge are very near to those of his brother--only a
+narrow road interposing between them. They have contrived to make them
+one by building under this road a subterranean passage, so that the two
+families can pass and repass into each other's grounds in perfect
+privacy.
+
+These English gardens delight me much; they unite variety, quaintness,
+and an imitation of the wildness of nature with the utmost care and
+cultivation. I was particularly pleased with the rockwork, which at
+times formed the walls of certain walks, the hollows and interstices of
+which were filled with every variety of creeping plants. Mr. Sturge told
+me that the substance of which these rockeries are made is sold
+expressly for the purpose.
+
+On one side of the grounds was an old-fashioned cottage, which one of my
+friends informed me Mr. Sturge formerly kept fitted up as a water cure
+hospital, for those whose means did not allow them to go to larger
+establishments. The plan was afterwards abandoned. One must see that
+such an enterprise would have many practical difficulties.
+
+At noon we dined in the house of the other brother, Mr. Edmund Sturge.
+Here I noticed a full-length engraving of Joseph Sturge. He is
+represented as standing with his hand placed protectingly on the head of
+a black child.
+
+We enjoyed our quiet season with these two families exceedingly. We
+seemed to feel ourselves in an atmosphere where all was peace and good
+will to man. The little children, after dinner, took us through the
+walks, to show us their beautiful rabbits and other pets. Every thing
+seemed in order, peaceable and quiet. Towards evening we went back
+through the arched passage to the other house again. My Sunday here has
+always seemed to me a pleasant kind of pastoral, much like the communion
+of Christian and Faithful with the shepherds on the Delectable
+Mountains.
+
+What is remarkable of all these Friends is, that, although they have
+been called, in the prosecution of philanthropic enterprises, to
+encounter so much opposition, and see so much of the unfavorable side of
+human nature, they are so habitually free from any tinge of
+uncharitableness or evil speaking in their statements with regard to the
+character and motives of others. There is also an habitual avoidance of
+all exaggerated forms of statement, a sobriety of diction, which, united
+with great affectionateness of manner, inspires the warmest confidence.
+
+C. had been, with Mr. Sturge, during the afternoon, to a meeting of the
+Friends, and heard a discourse from Sibyl Jones, one of the most popular
+of their female preachers. Sibyl is a native of the town of Brunswick,
+in the State of Maine. She and her husband, being both preachers, have
+travelled extensively in the prosecution of various philanthropic and
+religious enterprises.
+
+In the evening Mr. Sturge said that she had expressed a desire to see
+me. Accordingly I went with him to call upon her, and found her in the
+family of two aged Friends, surrounded by a circle of the same
+denomination. She is a woman of great delicacy of appearance, betokening
+very frail health. I am told that she is most of her time in a state of
+extreme suffering from neuralgic complaints. There was a mingled
+expression of enthusiasm and tenderness in her face which was very
+interesting. She had had, according to the language of her sect, a
+concern upon her mind for me.
+
+To my mind there is something peculiarly interesting about that
+primitive simplicity and frankness with which the members of this body
+express themselves. She desired to caution me against the temptations of
+too much flattery and applause, and against the worldliness which might
+beset me in London. Her manner of addressing me was like one who is
+commissioned with a message which must be spoken with plainness and
+sincerity. After this the whole circle kneeled, and she offered prayer.
+I was somewhat painfully impressed with her evident fragility of body,
+compared with the enthusiastic workings of her mind.
+
+In the course of the conversation she inquired if I was going to
+Ireland. I told her, yes, that was my intention. She begged that I would
+visit the western coast, adding, with great feeling, "It was the
+miseries which I saw there which have brought my health to the state it
+is." She had travelled extensively in the Southern States, and had, in
+private conversation, been able very fully to bear her witness against
+slavery, and had never been heard with unkindness.
+
+The whole incident afforded me matter for reflection. The calling of
+women to distinct religious vocations, it appears to me, was a part of
+primitive Christianity; has been one of the most efficient elements of
+power in the Romish church; obtained among the Methodists in England;
+and has, in all these cases, been productive of great good. The
+deaconesses whom the apostle mentions with honor in his epistle, Madame
+Guyon in the Romish church, Mrs. Fletcher, Elizabeth Fry, are instances
+which show how much may be done for mankind by women who feel themselves
+impelled to a special religious vocation.
+
+The Bible, which always favors liberal development, countenances this
+idea, by the instances of Deborah, Anna the prophetess, and by allusions
+in the New Testament, which plainly show that the prophetic gift
+descended upon women. St. Peter, quoting from the prophetic writings,
+says, "Upon your sons and upon your daughters I will pour out my spirit,
+and they shall prophesy." And St. Paul alludes to women praying and
+prophesying in the public assemblies of the Christians, and only enjoins
+that it should be done with becoming attention to the established usages
+of female delicacy. The example of the Quakers is a sufficient proof
+that acting upon this idea does not produce discord and domestic
+disorder. No class of people are more remarkable for quietness and
+propriety of deportment, and for household order and domestic
+excellence. By the admission of this liberty, the world is now and then
+gifted with a woman like Elizabeth Fry, while the family state loses
+none of its security and sacredness. No one in our day can charge the
+ladies of the Quaker sect with boldness or indecorum; and they have
+demonstrated that even public teaching, when performed under the
+influence of an overpowering devotional spirit, does not interfere with
+feminine propriety and modesty.
+
+The fact is, that the number of women to whom this vocation is given
+will always be comparatively few: they are, and generally will be,
+exceptions; and the majority of the religious world, ancient and modern,
+has decided that these exceptions are to be treated with reverence.
+
+The next morning, as we were sitting down to breakfast, our friends of
+the other house sent in to me a plate of the largest, finest
+strawberries I have ever seen, which, considering that it was only the
+latter part of April, seemed to me quite an astonishing luxury.
+
+On the morning before we left we had agreed to meet a circle of friends
+from Birmingham, consisting of the Abolition Society there, which is of
+long standing, extending back in its memories to the very commencement
+of the agitation under Clarkson and Wilberforce. It was a pleasant
+morning, the 1st of May. The windows of the parlor were opened to the
+ground; and the company invited filled not only the room, but stood in a
+crowd on the grass around the window. Among the peaceable company
+present was an admiral in the navy, a fine, cheerful old gentleman, who
+entered with hearty interest into the scene.
+
+The lady secretary of the society read a neatly-written address, full of
+kind feeling and Christian sentiment. Joseph Sturge made a few sensible
+and practical remarks on the present aspects of the antislavery cause in
+the world, and the most practical mode of assisting it among English
+Christians. He dwelt particularly on the encouragement of free labor.
+The Rev. John Angell James followed with some extremely kind and
+interesting remarks, and Mr. S. replied. As we were intending to return
+to this city to make a longer visit, we felt that this interview was but
+a glimpse of friends whom we hoped to know more perfectly hereafter.
+
+A throng of friends accompanied us to the depot. We had the pleasure of
+the company of Elihu Burritt, and enjoyed a delightful run to London,
+where we arrived towards evening.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+
+DEAR SISTER:--
+
+At the station house in London, we found Rev. Messrs. Binney and Sherman
+waiting for us with carriages. C. went with Mr. Sherman, and Mr. S. and
+I soon found ourselves in a charming retreat called Rose Cottage, in
+Walworth, about which I will tell you more anon. Mrs. B. received us
+with every attention which the most thoughtful hospitality could
+suggest.
+
+S. and W., who had gone on before us, and taken lodgings very near, were
+there waiting to receive us. One of the first things S. said to me,
+after we got into our room, was, "O, H----, we are so glad you have
+come, for we are all going to the lord mayor's dinner to night, and you
+are invited."
+
+"What!" said I, "the lord mayor of London, that I used to read about in
+Whittington and his Cat?" And immediately there came to my ears the
+sound of the old chime, which made so powerful an impression on my
+childish memory, wherein all the bells of London were represented as
+tolling.
+
+  "Turn again, Whittington,
+   Thrice lord mayor of London."
+
+It is curious what an influence these old rhymes have on our
+associations.
+
+S. went on to tell me that the party was the annual dinner given to the
+judges of England by the lord mayor, and that there we should see the
+whole English bar, and hosts of _distingués_ besides. So, though I was
+tired, I hurried to dress in all the glee of meeting an adventure, as
+Mr. and Mrs. B. and the rest of the party were ready. Crack went the
+whip, round went the wheels, and away we drove.
+
+We alighted at the Mansion House, and entered a large illuminated hall,
+supported by pillars. Chandeliers were glittering, servants with
+powdered heads and gold lace coats were hurrying to and fro in every
+direction, receiving company and announcing names. Do you want to know
+how announcing is done? Well, suppose a staircase, a hall, and two or
+three corridors, intervening between you and the drawing room. At all
+convenient distances on this route are stationed these grave,
+powdered-headed gentlemen, with their embroidered coats. You walk up to
+the first one, and tell him confidentially that you are Miss Smith. He
+calls to the man on the first landing, "Miss Smith." The man on the
+landing says to the man in the corridor, "Miss Smith." The man in the
+corridor shouts to the man at the drawing room door, "Miss Smith." And
+thus, following the sound of your name, you hear it for the last time
+shouted aloud, just before you enter the room.
+
+We found a considerable throng, and I was glad to accept a seat which
+was offered me in the agreeable vicinity of the lady mayoress, so that I
+might see what would be interesting to me of the ceremonial.
+
+The titles in law here, as in every thing else, are manifold; and the
+powdered-headed gentleman at the door pronounced them with an evident
+relish, which was joyous to hear--Mr. Attorney, Mr. Solicitor, and Mr.
+Sergeant; Lord Chief Baron, Lord Chief Justice, and Lord this, and Lord
+that, and Lord the other, more than I could possibly remember, as in
+they came dressed in black, with smallclothes and silk stockings, with
+swords by their sides, and little cocked hats under their arms, bowing
+gracefully before the lady mayoress.
+
+I saw no big wigs, but some wore the hair tied behind with a small black
+silk bag attached to it. Some of the principal men were dressed in black
+velvet, which became them finely. Some had broad shirt frills of point
+or Mechlin lace, with wide ruffles of the same round their wrists.
+
+Poor C., barbarian that he was, and utterly unaware of the priceless
+gentility of the thing, said to me, _sotto voce_, "How can men wear such
+dirty stuff? Why don't they wash it?" I expounded to him what an
+ignorant sinner he was, and that the dirt of ages was one of the surest
+indications of value. Wash point lace! it would be as bad as cleaning up
+the antiquary's study.
+
+The ladies were in full dress, which here in England means always a
+dress which exposes the neck and shoulders. This requirement seems to be
+universal, since ladies of all ages conform to it. It may, perhaps,
+account for this custom, to say that the bust of an English lady is
+seldom otherwise than fine, and develops a full outline at what we
+should call quite an advanced period of life.
+
+A very dignified gentleman, dressed in black velvet, with a fine head,
+made his way through the throng, and sat down by me, introducing himself
+as Lord Chief Baron Pollock. He told me he had just been reading the
+legal part of the Key to Uncle Tom's Cabin, and remarked especially on
+the opinion of Judge Ruffin, in the case of State _v._ Mann, as having
+made a deep impression on his mind. Of the character of the decision,
+considered as a legal and literary document, he spoke in terms of high
+admiration; said that nothing had ever given him so clear a view of the
+essential nature of slavery. We found that this document had produced
+the same impression on the minds of several others present. Mr. S. said
+that one or two distinguished legal gentlemen mentioned it to him in
+similar terms. The talent and force displayed in it, as well as the high
+spirit and scorn of dissimulation, appear to have created a strong
+interest in its author. It always seemed to me that there was a certain
+severe strength and grandeur about it which approached to the heroic.
+One or two said that they were glad such a man had retired from the
+practice of such a system of law.
+
+But there was scarce a moment for conversation amid the whirl and eddy
+of so many presentations. Before the company had all assembled, the room
+was a perfect jam of legal and literary notabilities. The dinner was
+announced between nine and ten o'clock. We were conducted into a
+splendid hall, where the tables were laid. Four long tables were set
+parallel with the length of the hall, and one on a raised platform
+across the upper end. In the midst of this sat the lord mayor and lady
+mayoress, on their right hand the judges, on their left the American
+minister, with other distinguished guests. I sat by a most agreeable and
+interesting young lady, who seemed to take pleasure in enlightening me
+on all those matters about which a stranger would naturally be
+inquisitive.
+
+Directly opposite me was Mr. Dickens, whom I now beheld for the first
+time, and was surprised to see looking so young. Mr. Justice Talfourd,
+known as the author of Ion, was also there with his lady. She had a
+beautiful antique cast of head.
+
+The lord mayor was simply dressed in black, without any other adornment
+than a massive gold chain.
+
+I asked the lady if he had not robes of state. She replied, yes; but
+they were very heavy and cumbersome, and that he never wore them when he
+could, with any propriety, avoid it. It seems to me that this matter of
+outward parade and state is gradually losing its hold even here in
+England. As society becomes enlightened, men care less and less for mere
+shows, and are apt to neglect those outward forms which have neither
+beauty nor convenience on their side, such as judges' wigs and lord
+mayors' robes.
+
+As a general thing the company were more plainly dressed than I had
+expected. I am really glad that there is a movement being made to carry
+the doctrine of plain dress into our diplomatic representation. Even
+older nations are becoming tired of mere shows; and, certainly, the
+representatives of a republic ought not to begin to put on the finery
+which monarchies are beginning to cast off.
+
+The present lord mayor is a member of the House of Commons--a most
+liberal-minded man; very simple, but pleasing in his appearance and
+address; one who seems to think more of essentials than of show.
+
+He is a dissenter, being a member of Rev. Mr. Binney's church, a man
+warmly interested in the promotion of Sabbath schools, and every worthy
+and benevolent object.
+
+The ceremonies of the dinner were long and weary, and, I thought, seemed
+to be more fully entered into by a flourishing official, who stood at
+the mayor's back, than by any other person present.
+
+The business of toast-drinking is reduced to the nicest system. A
+regular official, called a toast master, stood behind the lord mayor
+with a paper, from which he read the toasts in their order. Every one,
+according to his several rank, pretensions, and station, must be toasted
+in his gradation; and every person toasted must have his name announced
+by the official,--the larger dignitaries being proposed alone in their
+glory, while the smaller fry are read out by the dozen,--and to each
+toast somebody must get up and make a speech.
+
+First, after the usual loyal toasts, the lord mayor proposed the health
+of the American minister, expressing himself in the warmest terms of
+friendship towards our country; to which Mr. Ingersoll responded very
+handsomely. Among the speakers I was particularly pleased with Lord
+Chief Baron Pollock, who, in the absence of Lord Chief Justice Campbell,
+was toasted as the highest representative of the legal profession. He
+spoke with great dignity, simplicity, and courtesy, taking occasion to
+pay very flattering compliments to the American legal profession,
+speaking particularly of Judge Story. The compliment gave me great
+pleasure, because it seemed a just and noble-minded appreciation, and
+not a mere civil fiction. We are always better pleased with appreciation
+than flattery, though perhaps he strained a point when he said, "Our
+brethren on the other side of the Atlantic, with whom we are now
+exchanging legal authorities, I fear largely surpass us in the
+production of philosophic and comprehensive forms."
+
+Speaking of the two countries he said, "God forbid that, with a common
+language, with common laws which we are materially improving for the
+benefit of mankind, with one common literature, with one common
+religion, and above all with one common love of liberty, God forbid that
+any feeling should arise between the two countries but the desire to
+carry through the world these advantages."
+
+Mr. Justice Talfourd proposed the literature of our two countries, under
+the head of "Anglo-Saxon Literature." He made allusion to the author of
+Uncle Tom's Cabin and Mr. Dickens, speaking of both as having employed
+fiction as a means of awakening the attention of the respective
+countries to the condition of the oppressed and suffering classes. Mr.
+Talfourd appears to be in the prime of life, of a robust and somewhat
+florid habit. He is universally beloved for his nobleness of soul and
+generous interest in all that tends to promote the welfare of humanity,
+no less than for his classical and scholarly attainments.
+
+Mr. Dickens replied to this toast in a graceful and playful strain. In
+the former part of the evening, in reply to a toast on the chancery
+department, Vice-Chancellor Wood, who spoke in the absence of the lord
+chancellor, made a sort of defence of the Court of Chancery, not
+distinctly alluding to Bleak House, but evidently not without reference
+to it. The amount of what he said was, that the court had received a
+great many more hard opinions than it merited; that they had been
+parsimoniously obliged to perform a great amount of business by a very
+inadequate number of judges; but that more recently the number of judges
+had been increased to seven, and there was reason to hope that all
+business brought before it would now be performed without unnecessary
+delay.
+
+In the conclusion of Mr. Dickens's speech he alluded playfully to this
+item of intelligence; said he was exceedingly happy to hear it, as he
+trusted now that a suit, in which he was greatly interested, would
+speedily come to an end. I heard a little by conversation between Mr.
+Dickens and a gentleman of the bar, who sat opposite me, in which the
+latter seemed to be reiterating the same assertions, and I understood
+him to say, that a case not extraordinarily complicated might be got
+through with in three months. Mr. Dickens said he was very happy to hear
+it; but I fancied there was a little shade of incredulity in his manner;
+however, the incident showed one thing, that is, that the chancery were
+not insensible to the representations of Dickens; but the whole tone of
+the thing was quite good-natured and agreeable. In this respect, I must
+say I think the English are quite remarkable. Every thing here meets the
+very freest handling; nothing is too sacred to be publicly shown up; but
+those who are exhibited appear to have too much good sense to recognize
+the force of the picture by getting angry. Mr. Dickens has gone on
+unmercifully exposing all sorts of weak places in the English fabric,
+public and private, yet nobody cries out upon him as the slanderer of
+his country. He serves up Lord Dedlocks to his heart's content, yet none
+of the nobility make wry faces about it; nobody is in a hurry to
+proclaim that he has recognized the picture, by getting into a passion
+at it. The contrast between the people of England and America, in this
+respect, is rather unfavorable to us, because they are by profession
+conservative, and we by profession radical.
+
+For us to be annoyed when any of our institutions are commented upon, is
+in the highest degree absurd; it would do well enough for Naples, but it
+does not do for America.
+
+There were some curious old customs observed at this dinner which
+interested me as peculiar. About the middle of the feast, the official
+who performed all the announcing made the declaration that the lord
+mayor and lady mayoress would pledge the guests in a loving cup. They
+then rose, and the official presented them with a massive gold cup, full
+of wine, in which they pledged the guests. It then passed down the
+table, and the guests rose, two and two, each tasting and presenting to
+the other. My fair informant told me that this was a custom which had
+come down from the most ancient time.
+
+The banquet was enlivened at intervals by songs from professional
+singers, hired for the occasion. After the banquet was over, massive
+gold basins, filled with rose water, slid along down the table, into
+which the guests dipped their napkins--an improvement, I suppose, on the
+doctrine of finger glasses, or perhaps the primeval form of the custom.
+
+We rose from table between eleven and twelve o'clock--that is, we
+ladies--and went into the drawing room, where I was presented to Mrs.
+Dickens and several other ladies. Mrs. Dickens is a good specimen of a
+truly English woman; tall, large, and well developed, with fine, healthy
+color, and an air of frankness, cheerfulness, and reliability. A friend
+whispered to me that she was as observing, and fond of humor, as her
+husband.
+
+After a while the gentlemen came back to the drawing room, and I had a
+few moments of very pleasant, friendly conversation with Mr. Dickens.
+They are both people that one could not know a little of without
+desiring to know more.
+
+I had some conversation with the lady mayoress. She said she had been
+invited to meet me at Stafford House on Saturday, but should be unable
+to attend, as she had called a meeting on the same day of the city
+ladies, for considering the condition of milliners and dressmakers, and
+to form a society for their relief to act in conjunction with that of
+the west end.
+
+After a little we began to talk of separating; the lord mayor to take
+his seat in the House of Commons, and the rest of the party to any other
+engagement that might be upon their list.
+
+"Come, let us go to the House of Commons," said one of my friends, "and
+make a night of it." "With all my heart," replied I, "if I only had
+another body to go into to-morrow."
+
+What a convenience in sight-seeing it would be if one could have a relay
+of bodies, as of clothes, and go from one into the other. But we, not
+used to the London style of turning night into day, are full weary
+already; so, good night.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+
+ROSE COTTAGE, WALWORTH, LONDON, May 2.
+
+MY DEAR:--
+
+This morning Mrs. Follen called, and we had quite a long chat together.
+We are separated by the whole city. She lives at West End, while I am
+down here in Walworth, which is one of the postscripts of London; for
+London has as many postscripts as a lady's letter--little suburban
+villages which have been overtaken by the growth, of the city, and
+embraced in its arms. I like them a great deal better than the city, for
+my part.
+
+Here now, for instance, at Walworth, I can look out at a window and see
+a nice green meadow with sheep and lambs feeding in it, which is some
+relief in this smutty old place. London is as smutty as Pittsburg or
+Wheeling. It takes a good hour's steady riding to get from here to West
+End; so that my American friends, of the newspapers, who are afraid I
+shall be corrupted by aristocratic associations, will see that I am at
+safe distance.
+
+This evening we are appointed to dine with the Earl of Carlisle. There
+is to be no company but his own family circle, for he, with great
+consideration, said in his note that he thought a little quiet would be
+the best thing he could offer. Lord Carlisle is a great friend to
+America; and so is his sister, the Duchess of Sutherland. He is the only
+English traveller who ever wrote notes on our country in a real spirit
+of appreciation. While the Halls, and Trollopes, and all the rest could
+see nothing but our breaking eggs on the wrong end, or such matters, he
+discerned and interpreted those points wherein lies the real strength of
+our growing country. His notes on America were not very extended, being
+only sketches delivered as a lyceum lecture some years after his return.
+It was the spirit and quality, rather than quantity, of the thing that
+was noticeable.
+
+I observe that American newspapers are sneering about his preface to
+Uncle Tom's Cabin; but they ought at least to remember that his
+sentiments with regard to slavery are no sudden freak. In the first
+place, he comes of a family that has always been on the side of liberal
+and progressive principles. He himself has been a leader of reforms on
+the popular side. It was a temporary defeat, when run as an
+anti-corn-law candidate, which gave him leisure to travel in America.
+Afterwards he had the satisfaction to be triumphantly returned for that
+district, and to see the measure he had advocated fully successful.
+
+While Lord Carlisle was in America he never disguised those antislavery
+sentiments which formed a part of his political and religious creed as
+an Englishman, and as the heir of a house always true to progress. Many
+cultivated English people have shrunk from acknowledging abolitionists
+in Boston, where the ostracism of fashion and wealth has been enforced
+against them. Lord Carlisle, though moving in the highest circle,
+honestly and openly expressed his respect for them on all occasions. He
+attended the Boston antislavery fair, which at that time was quite a
+decided step. Nor did he even in any part of our country disguise his
+convictions. There is, therefore, propriety and consistency in the
+course he has taken now. It would seem that a warm interest in
+questions of a public nature has always distinguished the ladies of this
+family. The Duchess of Sutherland's mother is daughter of the celebrated
+Duchess of Devonshire, who, in her day, employed on the liberal side in
+politics all the power of genius, wit, beauty, and rank. It was to the
+electioneering talents of herself and her sister, the Lady Duncannon,
+that Fox, at one crisis, owed his election. We Americans should remember
+that it was this party who advocated our cause during our revolutionary
+struggle. Fox and his associates pleaded for us with much the same
+arguments, and with the same earnestness and warmth, that American
+abolitionists now plead for the slaves. They stood against all the power
+of the king and cabinet, as the abolitionists in America in 1850 stood
+against president and cabinet.
+
+The Duchess of Devonshire was a woman of real noble impulses and
+generous emotions, and had a true sympathy for what is free and heroic.
+Coleridge has some fine lines addressed to her,--called forth by a
+sonnet which she composed, while in Switzerland, on William Tell's
+Chapel,--which begin,--
+
+  "O lady, nursed in pomp and pleasure,
+  Where learn'dst thou that heroic measure?"
+
+The Duchess of Sutherland, in our times, has been known to be no less
+warmly interested on the liberal side. So great was her influence held
+to be, that upon a certain occasion when a tory cabinet was to be
+formed, a distinguished minister is reported to have said to the queen
+that he could not hope to succeed in his administration while such a
+decided influence as that of the Duchess of Sutherland stood at the
+head of her majesty's household. The queen's spirited refusal to
+surrender her favorite attendant attracted, at the time, universal
+admiration.
+
+Like her brother Lord Carlisle, the Duchess of Sutherland has always
+professed those sentiments with regard to slavery which are the glory of
+the English nation, and which are held with more particular zeal by
+those families who are favorable to the progress of liberal ideas.
+
+At about seven o'clock we took our carriage to go to the Earl of
+Carlisle's, the dinner hour being here somewhere between eight and nine.
+As we rode on through the usual steady drizzling rain, from street to
+street and square to square, crossing Waterloo Bridge, with its avenue
+of lamps faintly visible in the seethy mist, plunging through the heart
+of the city, we began to realize something of the immense extent of
+London.
+
+Altogether the most striking objects that you pass, as you ride in the
+evening thus, are the gin shops, flaming and flaring from the most
+conspicuous positions, with plate-glass windows and dazzling lights,
+thronged with men, and women, and children, drinking destruction.
+Mothers go there with babies in their arms, and take what turns the
+mother's milk to poison. Husbands go there, and spend the money that
+their children want for bread, and multitudes of boys and girls of the
+age of my own. In Paris and other European cities, at least the great
+fisher of souls baits with something attractive, but in these gin shops
+men bite at the bare, barbed hook. There are no garlands, no dancing, no
+music, no theatricals, no pretence of social exhilaration, nothing but
+hogsheads of spirits, and people going in to drink. The number of them
+that I passed seemed to me absolutely appalling.
+
+After long driving we found ourselves coming into the precincts of the
+West End, and began to feel an indefinite sense that we were approaching
+something very grand, though I cannot say that we saw much but heavy,
+smoky-walled buildings, washed by the rain. At length we stopped in
+Grosvenor Place, and alighted.
+
+We were shown into an anteroom adjoining the entrance hall, and from
+that into an adjacent apartment, where we met Lord Carlisle. The room
+had a pleasant, social air, warmed and enlivened by the blaze of a coal
+fire and wax candles.
+
+We had never, any of us, met Lord Carlisle before; but the
+considerateness and cordiality of our reception obviated whatever
+embarrassment there might have been in this circumstance. In a few
+moments after we were all seated the servant announced the Duchess of
+Sutherland, and Lord Carlisle presented me. She is tall and stately,
+with a decided fulness of outline, and a most noble bearing. Her fair
+complexion, blond hair, and full lips speak of Saxon blood. In her early
+youth she might have been a Rowena. I thought of the lines of
+Wordsworth:--
+
+  "A perfect woman, nobly planned,
+  To warn, to comfort, to command."
+
+Her manners have a peculiar warmth and cordiality. One sees people now
+and then who seem to _radiate_ kindness and vitality, and to have a
+faculty of inspiring perfect confidence in a moment. There are no airs
+of grandeur, no patronizing ways; but a genuine sincerity and kindliness
+that seem to come from a deep fountain within.
+
+The engraving by Winterhalter, which has been somewhat familiar in
+America, is as just a representation of her air and bearing as could be
+given.
+
+After this we were presented to the various members of the Howard
+family, which is a very numerous one. Among them were Lady Dover, Lady
+Lascelles, and Lady Labouchère, sisters of the duchess. The Earl of
+Burlington, who is the heir of the Duke of Devonshire, was also present.
+The Duke of Devonshire is the uncle of Lord Carlisle.
+
+The only person present not of the family connection was my quondam
+correspondent in America, Arthur Helps. Somehow or other I had formed
+the impression from his writings that he was a venerable sage of very
+advanced years, who contemplated life as an aged hermit, from the door
+of his cell. Conceive my surprise to find a genial young gentleman of
+about twenty-five, who looked as if he might enjoy a joke as well as
+another man.
+
+At dinner I found myself between him and Lord Carlisle, and perceiving,
+perhaps, that the nature of my reflections was of rather an amusing
+order, he asked me confidentially if I did not like fun, to which I
+assented with fervor. I like that little homely word _fun_, though I
+understand the dictionary says what it represents is vulgar; but I think
+it has a good, hearty, Saxon sound, and I like Saxon, better than Latin
+or French either.
+
+When the servant offered me wine Lord Carlisle asked me if our party
+were all _teetotallers_, and I said yes; that in America all clergymen
+were teetotallers, of course.
+
+After the ladies left the table the conversation turned on the Maine
+law, which seems to be considered over here as a phenomenon, in
+legislation, and many of the gentlemen, present inquired about it with
+great curiosity.
+
+When we went into the drawing room I was presented to the venerable
+Countess of Carlisle, the earl's mother; a lady universally beloved and
+revered, not less for superior traits of mind than for great loveliness
+and benevolence of character. She received us with the utmost kindness;
+kindness evidently genuine and real.
+
+The walls of the drawing room were beautifully adorned with works of art
+by the best masters. There was a Rembrandt hanging over the fireplace,
+which showed finely by the evening light. It was simply the portrait of
+a man with a broad, Flemish hat. There were one or two pictures, also,
+by Cuyp. I should think he must have studied in America, so perfectly
+does he represent the golden, hazy atmosphere of our Indian summer.
+
+One of the ladies showed me a snuff box on which was a picture of Lady
+Carlisle's mother, the celebrated Duchess of Devonshire, taken when she
+was quite a little girl; a round, happy face, showing great vivacity and
+genius. On another box was an exquisitely beautiful miniature of a
+relative of the family.
+
+After the gentlemen rejoined us came in the Duke and Duchess of Argyle,
+and Lord and Lady Blantyre. These ladies are the daughters of the
+Duchess of Sutherland. The Duchess of Argyle is of a slight and
+fairy-like figure, with flaxen hair and blue eyes, answering well enough
+to the description of Annot Lyle, in the Legend of Montrose. Lady
+Blantyre was somewhat taller, of fuller figure, with very brilliant
+bloom. Lord Blantyre is of the Stuart blood, a tall and slender young
+man, with very graceful manners.
+
+As to the Duke of Argyle, we found that the picture drawn of him by his
+countrymen in Scotland was every way correct. Though slight of figure,
+with fair complexion and blue eyes, his whole appearance is indicative
+of energy and vivacity. His talents and efficiency have made him a
+member of the British cabinet at a much earlier age than is usual; and
+he has distinguished himself not only in political life, but as a
+writer, having given to the world a work on Presbyterianism, embracing
+an analysis of the ecclesiastical history of Scotland since the
+reformation, which is spoken of as written with great ability, in a most
+candid and liberal spirit.
+
+The company soon formed themselves into little groups in different parts
+of the room. The Duchess of Sutherland, Lord Carlisle, and the Duke and
+Duchess of Argyle formed a circle, and turned the conversation upon
+American topics. The Duke of Argyle made many inquiries about our
+distinguished men; particularly of Emerson, Longfellow, and Hawthorne;
+also of Prescott, who appears to be a general favorite here. I felt at
+the moment that we never value our literary men so much as when placed
+in a circle of intelligent foreigners; it is particularly so with
+Americans, because we have nothing but our men and women to glory in--no
+court, no nobles, no castles, no cathedrals; except we produce
+distinguished specimens of humanity, we are nothing.
+
+The quietness of this evening circle, the charm of its kind hospitality,
+the evident air of sincerity and good will which pervaded every thing,
+made the evening pass most delightfully to me. I had never felt myself
+more at home even among the Quakers. Such a visit is a true rest and
+refreshment, a thousand times better than the most brilliant and
+glittering entertainment.
+
+At eleven o'clock, however, the carriage called, for our evening was
+drawing to its close; that of our friends, I suppose, was but just
+commencing, as London's liveliest hours are by gaslight, but we cannot
+learn the art of turning night into day.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+
+May 4.
+
+MY DEAR S.:--
+
+This morning I felt too tired to go out any where; but Mr. and Mrs.
+Binney persuaded me to go just a little while in to the meeting of the
+Bible Society, for you must know that this is anniversary week, and so,
+besides the usual rush, and roar, and whirl of London, there is the
+confluence of all the religious forces in Exeter Hall. I told Mrs. B.
+that I was worn out, and did not think I could sit through a single
+speech; but she tempted me by a promise that I should withdraw at any
+moment. We had a nice little snug gallery near one of the doors, where I
+could see all over the house, and make a quick retreat in case of need.
+
+In one point English ladies certainly do carry practical industry
+farther than I ever saw it in America. Every body knows that an
+anniversary meeting is something of a siege, and I observed many good
+ladies below had made regular provision therefor, by bringing knitting
+work, sewing, crochet, or embroidery. I thought it was an improvement,
+and mean to recommend it when I get home. I am sure many of our Marthas
+in America will be very grateful for the custom.
+
+The Earl of Shaftesbury was in the chair, and I saw him now for the
+first time. He is quite a tall man, of slender figure, with a long and
+narrow face, dark hazel eyes, and very thick, auburn hair. His bearing
+was dignified and appropriate to his position. People here are somewhat
+amused by the vivacity with which American papers are exhorting Lord
+Shaftesbury to look into the factory system, and to explore the
+collieries, and in general to take care of the suffering lower classes,
+as if he had been doing any thing else for these twenty years past. To
+people who know how he has worked against wind and tide, in the face of
+opposition and obloquy, and how all the dreadful statistics that they
+quote against him were brought out expressly by inquiries set on foot
+and prosecuted by him, and how these same statistics have been by him
+reiterated in the ears of successive houses of Parliament till all these
+abuses have been reformed, as far as the most stringent and minute
+legislation can reform, them,--it is quite amusing to hear him exhorted
+to consider the situation of the working classes. One reason for this,
+perhaps, is that provoking facility in changing names which is incident
+to the English peerage. During the time that most of the researches and
+speeches on the factory system and collieries were made, the Earl of
+Shaftesbury was in the House of Commons, with the title of Lord Ashley,
+and it was not till the death of his father that he entered the House of
+Peers as Lord Shaftesbury. The contrast which a very staid religious
+paper in America has drawn between Lord Ashley and Lord Shaftesbury does
+not strike people over here as remarkably apposite.
+
+In the course of the speeches on this occasion, frequent and feeling
+allusions were made to the condition of three millions of people in
+America who are prevented by legislative enactments from reading for
+themselves the word of life. I know it is not pleasant to our ministers
+upon the stage to hear such things; but is the whole moral sense of the
+world to hush its voice, the whole missionary spirit of Christianity to
+be restrained, because it is disagreeable for us to be reminded of our
+national sins? At least, let the moral atmosphere of the world be kept
+pure, though it should be too stimulating for our diseased lungs. If
+oral instruction will do for three million slaves in America, it will do
+equally well in Austria, Italy, and Spain, and the powers that be,
+there, are just of the opinion that they are in America--that it is
+dangerous to have the people read the Bible for themselves. Thoughts of
+this kind were very ably set forth in some of the speeches. On the stage
+I noticed Rev. Samuel R. Ward, from Toronto in Canada, a full blooded
+African of fine personal presence. He was received and treated with much
+cordiality by the ministerial brethren who surrounded him. I was sorry
+that I could not stay through the speeches, for they were quite
+interesting. C. thought they were the best he ever heard at an
+anniversary. I was obliged to leave after a little. Mr. Sherman very
+kindly came for us in his carriage, and took us a little ride into the
+country.
+
+Mrs. B. says that to-morrow morning we shall go out to see the Dulwich
+Gallery, a fine collection of paintings by the old masters. Now, I
+confess unto you that I have great suspicions of these old masters. Why,
+I wish to know, should none but _old_ masters be thought any thing of?
+Is not nature ever springing, ever new? Is it not fair to conclude that
+all the mechanical assistants of painting are improved with the advance
+of society, as much as of all arts? May not the magical tints, which are
+said to be a secret with the old masters, be the effect of time in part?
+or may not modern artists have their secrets, as well, for future ages
+to study and admire? Then, besides, how are we to know that our
+admiration of old masters is genuine, since we can bring our taste to
+any thing, if we only know we must, and try long enough? People never
+like olives the first time they eat them. In fact, I must confess, I
+have some partialities towards young masters, and a sort of suspicion
+that we are passing over better paintings at our side, to get at those
+which, though the best of their day, are not so good as the best of
+ours. I certainly do not worship the old English poets. With the
+exception of Milton and Shakspeare, there is more poetry in the works of
+the writers of the last fifty years than in all the rest together. Well,
+these are my surmises for the present; but one thing I am determined--as
+my admiration is nothing to any body but myself, I will keep some likes
+and dislikes of my own, and will not get up any raptures that do not
+arise of themselves. I am entirely willing to be conquered by any
+picture that has the power. I will be a non-resistant, but that is all.
+
+May 5. Well, we saw the Dulwich Gallery; five rooms filled with old
+masters, Murillos, Claudes, Rubens, Salvator Rosas, Titians, Cuyps,
+Vandykes, and all the rest of them; probably not the best specimens of
+any one of them, but good enough to begin with. C. and I took different
+courses. I said to him, "Now choose nine pictures simply by your eye,
+and see how far its untaught guidance will bring you within the canons
+of criticism." When he had gone through all the rooms and marked his
+pictures, we found he had selected two by Rubens, two by Vandyke, one by
+Salvator Rosa, three by Murillo, and one by Titian. Pretty successful
+that, was it not, for a first essay? We then took the catalogue, and
+selected all the pictures of each artist one after another, in order to
+get an idea of the style of each. I had a great curiosity to see Claude
+Lorraine's, remembering the poetical things that had been said and sung
+of him. I thought I would see if I could distinguish them by my eye
+without looking at the catalogue I found I could do so. I knew them by a
+certain misty quality in the atmosphere. I was disappointed in them,
+very much. Certainly, they were good paintings; I had nothing to object
+to them, but I profanely thought I had seen pictures by modern landscape
+painters as far excelling them as a brilliant morning excels a cool,
+gray day. Very likely the fault was all in me, but I could not help it;
+so I tried the Murillos. There was a Virgin and Child, with clouds
+around them. The virgin was a very pretty girl, such as you may see by
+the dozen in any boarding school, and the child was a pretty child. Call
+it the young mother and son, and it is a very pretty picture; but call
+it Mary and the infant Jesus, and it is an utter failure. Not such was
+the Jewish princess, the inspired poetess and priestess, the chosen of
+God among all women.
+
+It seems to me that painting is poetry expressing itself by lines and
+colors instead of words; therefore there are two things to be considered
+in every picture: first, the quality of the idea expressed, and second,
+the quality of the language in which it is expressed. Now, with regard
+to the first, I hold that every person of cultivated taste is as good a
+judge of painting as of poetry. The second, which relates to the mode of
+expressing the conception, including drawing and coloring, with all
+their secrets, requires more study, and here our untaught perceptions
+must sometimes yield to the judgment of artists. My first question,
+then, when I look at the work of an artist, is, What sort of a mind has
+this man? What has he to say? And then I consider, How does he say it?
+
+Now, with regard to Murillo, it appeared to me that he was a man of
+rather a mediocre mind, with nothing very high or deep to say, but that
+he was gifted with an exquisite faculty of expressing what he did say;
+and his paintings seem to me to bear an analogy to Pope's poetry,
+wherein the power of expression is wrought to the highest point, but
+without freshness or ideality in the conception. As Pope could reproduce
+in most exquisite wording the fervent ideas of Eloisa, without the power
+to originate such, so Murillo reproduced the current and floating
+religious ideas of his times, with most exquisite perfection of art and
+color, but without ideality or vitality. The pictures of his which
+please me most are his beggar boys and flower girls, where he abandons
+the region of ideality, and simply reproduces nature. His art and
+coloring give an exquisite grace to such sketches.
+
+As to Vandyke, though evidently a fine painter, he is one whose mind
+does not move me. He adds nothing to my stock of thoughts--awakens no
+emotion. I know it is a fine picture, just as I have sometimes been
+conscious in church that I was hearing a fine sermon, which somehow had
+not the slightest effect upon me.
+
+Rubens, on the contrary, whose pictures I detested with all the energy
+of my soul, I knew and felt all the time, by the very pain he gave me,
+to be a real living artist. There was a Venus and Cupid there, as fat
+and as coarse as they could be, but so freely drawn, and so masterly in
+their expression and handling, that one must feel that they were by an
+artist, who could just as easily have painted them any other way if it
+had suited his sovereign pleasure, and therefore we are the more vexed
+with him. When your taste is crossed by a clever person, it always vexes
+you more than when it is done by a stupid one, because it is done with
+such power that there is less hope for you.
+
+There were a number of pictures of Cuyp there, which satisfied my thirst
+for coloring, and appeared to me as I expected the Claudes would have
+done. Generally speaking, his objects are few in number and commonplace
+in their character--a bit of land and water, a few cattle and figures,
+in no way remarkable; but then he floods the whole with that dreamy,
+misty sunlight, such as fills the arches of our forests in the days of
+autumn. As I looked at them I fancied I could hear nuts dropping from
+the trees among the dry leaves, and see the goldenrods and purple
+asters, and hear the click of the squirrel as he whips up the tree to
+his nest. For this one attribute of golden, dreamy haziness, I like
+Cuyp. His power in shedding it over very simple objects reminds me of
+some of the short poems of Longfellow, when things in themselves most
+prosaic are flooded with a kind of poetic light from the inner soul.
+These are merely first ideas and impressions. Of course I do not make up
+my mind about any artist from what I have seen here. We must not expect
+a painter to put his talent into every picture, more than a poet into
+every verse that he writes. Like other men, he is sometimes brilliant
+and inspired, and at others dull and heavy. In general, however, I have
+this to say, that there is some kind of fascination about these old
+masters which I feel very sensibly. But yet, I am sorry to add that
+there is very little of what I consider the highest mission of art in
+the specimens I have thus far seen; nothing which speaks to the deepest
+and the highest; which would inspire a generous ardor, or a solemn
+religious trust. Vainly I seek for something divine, and ask of art to
+bring me nearer to the source of all beauty and perfection. I find
+wealth of coloring, freedom of design, and capability of expression
+wasting themselves merely in portraying trivial sensualities and
+commonplace ideas. So much for the first essay.
+
+In the evening we went to dine with our old friends of the Dingle, Mr.
+and Mrs. Edward Cropper, who are now spending a little time in London.
+We were delighted to meet them once more, and to hear from our Liverpool
+friends. Mrs. Cropper's father, Lord Denman, has returned to England,
+though with no sensible improvement in his health.
+
+At dinner we were introduced to Lord and Lady Hatherton. Lord Hatherton
+is a member of the whig party, and has been chief secretary for Ireland.
+Lady Hatherton is a person of great cultivation and intelligence, warmly
+interested in all the progressive movements of the day; and I gained
+much information in her society. There were also present Sir Charles and
+Lady Trevelyan; the former holds some appointment in the navy. Lady
+Trevelyan is a sister of Macaulay.
+
+In the evening quite a circle came in; among others, Lady Emma Campbell,
+sister of the Duke of Argyle; the daughters of the Archbishop of
+Canterbury, who very kindly invited me to visit them, at Lambeth; and
+Mr. Arthur Helps, besides many others whose names I need not mention.
+
+People here continually apologize for the weather, which, to say the
+least, has been rather ungracious since we have been here; as if one
+ever expected to find any thing but smoke, and darkness, and fog in
+London. The authentic air with which they lament the existence of these
+things _at present_ would almost persuade one that _in general_ London
+was a very clear, bright place. I, however, assured them that, having
+heard from my childhood of the smoke of London, its dimness and
+darkness, I found things much better than I had expected.
+
+They talk here of spirit rappings and table turnings, I find, as in
+America. Many rumors are afloat which seem to have no other effect than
+merely to enliven the chitchat of an evening circle. I passed a very
+pleasant evening, and left about ten o'clock. The gentleman who was
+handing me down stairs said, "I suppose you are going to one or two
+other places to-night." The idea struck me as so preposterous that I
+could not help an exclamation of surprise.
+
+May 6. A good many calls this morning. Among others came Miss
+Greenfield, the (so called) Black Swan. She appears to be a gentle,
+amiable, and interesting young person. She was born the slave of a kind
+mistress, who gave her every thing but education, and, dying, left her
+free with a little property. The property she lost by some legal
+quibble, but had, like others of her race, a passion for music, and
+could sing and play by ear. A young lady, discovering her taste, gave
+her a few lessons. She has a most astonishing voice. C. sat down to the
+piano and played, while she sung. Her voice runs through a compass of
+three octaves and a fourth. This is four notes more than Malibran's. She
+sings a most magnificent tenor, with such a breadth and volume of sound
+that, with your back turned, you could not imagine it to be a woman.
+While she was there, Mrs. S.C. Hall, of the Irish Sketches, was
+announced. She is a tall, well-proportioned woman, with a fine color,
+dark-brown hair, and a cheerful, cordial manner. She brought with her
+her only daughter, a young girl about fifteen. I told her of Miss
+Greenfield, and, she took great interest in her, and requested her to
+sing something for her. C. played the accompaniment, and she sung Old
+Folks at Home, first in a soprano voice, and then in a tenor or
+baritone. Mrs. Hall was amazed and delighted, and entered at once into
+her cause. She said that she would call with me and present her to Sir
+George Smart, who is at the head of the queen's musical establishment,
+and, of course, the acknowledged leader of London musical judgment.
+
+Mrs. Hall very kindly told me that she had called to invite me to seek a
+retreat with her in her charming little country house near London. I do
+not mean that _she_ called it a charming little retreat, but that every
+one who speaks of it gives it that character. She told me that I should
+there have positive and perfect quiet; and what could attract me more
+than that? She said, moreover, that there they had a great many
+nightingales. Ah, this "bower of roses by Bendemeer's stream," could I
+only go there! but I am tied to London by a hundred engagements. I
+cannot do it. Nevertheless, I have promised that I will go and spend
+some time yet, when Mr. S. leaves London.
+
+In the course of the day I had a note from Mrs. Hall, saying that, as
+Sir George Smart was about leaving town, she had not waited for me, but
+had taken Miss Greenfield to him herself. She writes that he was really
+astonished and charmed at the wonderful weight, compass, and power of
+her voice. He was also as well pleased with the mind in her singing, and
+her quickness in doing and catching all that he told her. Should she
+have a public opportunity to perform, he offered to hear her rehearse
+beforehand. Mrs. Hall says this is a great deal for him, whose hours are
+all marked with gold.
+
+In the evening the house was opened in a general way for callers, who
+were coming and going all the evening. I think there must have been over
+two hundred people--among them Martin Farquhar Tupper, a little man,
+with fresh, rosy complexion, and cheery, joyous manners; and Mary
+Howitt, just such a cheerful, sensible, fireside companion as we find
+her in her books,--winning love and trust the very first few moments of
+the interview. The general topic of remark on meeting me seems to be,
+that I am not so bad looking as they were afraid I was; and I do assure
+you that, when I have seen the things that are put up in the shop
+windows here with my name under them, I have been in wondering
+admiration at the boundless loving-kindness of my English and Scottish
+friends, in keeping up such a warm heart for such a Gorgon. I should
+think that the Sphinx in the London Museum might have sat for most of
+them. I am going to make a collection of these portraits to bring home
+to you. There is a great variety of them, and they will be useful, like
+the Irishman's guideboard, which showed where the road did not go.
+
+Before the evening was through I was talked out and worn out--there was
+hardly a chip of me left. To-morrow at eleven o'clock comes the meeting
+at Stafford House. What it will amount to I do not know; but I take no
+thought for the morrow.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+
+MAY 8.
+
+MY DEAR C.:--
+
+In fulfilment of my agreement, I will tell you, as nearly as I can
+remember, all the details of the meeting at Stafford House.
+
+At about eleven o'clock we drove under the arched carriage way of a
+mansion, externally, not very showy in appearance. It stands on the
+borders of St. James's Park, opposite to Buckingham Palace, with a
+street on the north side, and beautiful gardens on the south, while the
+park is extended on the west.
+
+We were received at the door by two stately Highlanders in full costume;
+and what seemed to me an innumerable multitude of servants in livery,
+with powdered hair, repeated our names through the long corridors, from
+one to another.
+
+I have only a confused idea of passing from passage to passage, and from
+hall to hall, till finally we were introduced into a large drawing room.
+No person was present, and I was at full leisure to survey an apartment
+whose arrangements more perfectly suited my eye and taste than any I had
+ever seen before. There was not any particular splendor of furniture, or
+dazzling display of upholstery, but an artistic, poetic air, resulting
+from the arrangement of colors, and the disposition of the works of
+_virtu_ with which the room abounded. The great fault in many splendid
+rooms, is, that they are arranged without any eye to unity of
+impression. The things in them may be all fine in their way, but there
+is no harmony of result.
+
+People do not often consider that there may be a general sentiment to be
+expressed in the arrangement of a room, as well as in the composition of
+a picture. It is this leading idea which corresponds to what painters
+call the ground tone, or harmonizing tint, of a picture. The presence of
+this often renders a very simple room extremely fascinating, and the
+absence of it makes the most splendid combinations of furniture
+powerless to please.
+
+The walls were covered with green damask, laid on flat, and confined in
+its place by narrow gilt bands, which bordered it around the margin. The
+chairs, ottomans, and sofas were of white woodwork, varnished and
+gilded, covered with the same.
+
+The carpet was of a green ground, bedropped with a small yellow leaf;
+and in each window a circular, standing basket contained a whole bank of
+primroses, growing as if in their native soil, their pale yellow
+blossoms and green leaves harmonizing admirably with the general tone of
+coloring.
+
+Through the fall of the lace curtains I could see out into the beautiful
+grounds, whose clumps of blossoming white lilacs, and velvet grass,
+seemed so in harmony with the green interior of the room, that one would
+think they had been arranged as a continuation of the idea.
+
+One of the first individual objects which attracted my attention was,
+over the mantel-piece, a large, splendid picture by Landseer, which I
+have often seen engraved. It represents the two eldest children of the
+Duchess of Sutherland, the Marquis of Stafford, and Lady Blantyre, at
+that time Lady Levison Gower, in their childhood. She is represented as
+feeding a fawn; a little poodle dog is holding up a rose to her; and her
+brother is lying on the ground, playing with an old staghound.
+
+I had been familiar with Landseer's engravings, but this was the first
+of his paintings I had ever seen, and I was struck with the rich and
+harmonious quality of the coloring. There was also a full-length marble
+statue of the Marquis of Stafford, taken, I should think, at about
+seventeen years of age, in full Highland costume.
+
+When the duchess appeared, I thought she looked handsomer by daylight
+than in the evening. She was dressed in white muslin, with a drab velvet
+basque slashed with satin of the same color. Her hair was confined by a
+gold and diamond net on the back part of her head.
+
+She received us with the same warm and simple kindness which she had
+shown before. We were presented to the Duke of Sutherland. He is a tall,
+slender man, with rather a thin face, light brown hair, and a mild blue
+eye, with an air of gentleness and dignity. The delicacy of his health
+prevents him from moving in general society, or entering into public
+life. He spends much of his time in reading, and devising and executing
+schemes of practical benevolence for the welfare of his numerous
+dependants.
+
+I sought a little private conversation with the duchess in her boudoir,
+in which I frankly confessed a little anxiety respecting the
+arrangements of the day: having lived all my life in such a shady and
+sequestered way, and being entirely ignorant of life as it exists in the
+sphere in which she moves, such apprehensions were rather natural.
+
+She begged that I would make myself entirely easy, and consider myself
+as among my own friends; that she had invited a few friends to lunch,
+and that afterwards others would call; that there would be a short
+address from the ladies of England read by Lord Shaftesbury, which would
+require no answer.
+
+I could not but be grateful for the consideration thus evinced. The
+matter being thus adjusted, we came back to the drawing room, when the
+party began to assemble.
+
+The only difference, I may say, by the by, in the gathering of such a
+company and one with us, is in the announcing of names at the door; a,
+custom which I think a good one, saving a vast deal of the breath we
+always expend in company, by asking "Who is that? and that?" Then, too,
+people can fall into conversation without a formal presentation, the
+presumption being that nobody is invited with whom, it is not proper
+that you should converse. The functionary who performed the announcing
+was a fine, stalwart man, in full Highland costume, the duke being the
+head of a Highland clan.
+
+Among the first that entered were the members of the family, the Duke
+and Duchess of Argyle, Lord and Lady Blantyre, the Marquis and
+Marchioness of Stafford, and Lady Emma Campbell. Then followed Lord
+Shaftesbury with his beautiful lady, and her father and mother, Lord and
+Lady Palmerston. Lord Palmerston is of middle height, with a keen, dark
+eye, and black hair streaked with gray. There is something peculiarly
+alert and vivacious about all his movements; in short his appearance
+perfectly answers to what we know of him from his public life. One has a
+strange mythological feeling about the existence of people of whom one
+hears for many years without ever seeing them. While talking with Lord
+Palmerston I could but remember how often I had heard father and Mr. S.
+exulting over his foreign despatches by our home fireside.
+
+The Marquis of Lansdowne now entered. He is about the middle height,
+with gray hair, blue eyes, and a mild, quiet dignity of manner. He is
+one of those who, as Lord Henry Pettes, took a distinguished part with
+Clarkson and Wilberforce in the abolition of the slave trade. He has
+always been a most munificent patron of literature and art.
+
+There were present, also, Lord John Russell, Mr. Gladstone, and Lord
+Grenville. The latter we all thought very strikingly resembled in his
+appearance the poet Longfellow. My making the remark introduced the
+subject of his poetry. The Duchess of Argyle appealed to her two little
+boys, who stood each side of her, if they remembered her reading
+Evangeline to them. It is a gratification to me that I find by every
+English fireside traces of one of our American poets. These two little
+boys of the Duchess of Argyle, and the youngest son of the Duchess of
+Sutherland, were beautiful fair-haired children, picturesquely attired
+in the Highland costume. There were some other charming children of the
+family circle present. The eldest son of the Duke of Argyle bears the
+title of the Lord of Lorn, which Scott has rendered so poetical a sound
+to our ears.
+
+When lunch was announced, the Duke of Sutherland gave me his arm, and
+led me through a suite of rooms into the dining hall. Each room that we
+passed was rich in its pictures, statues, and artistic arrangements; a
+poetic eye and taste had evidently presided over all. The table was
+beautifully laid, ornamented by two magnificent _épergnes_, crystal
+vases supported by wrought silver standards, filled with the most
+brilliant hothouse flowers; on the edges of the vases and nestling
+among the flowers were silver doves of the size of life. The walls of
+the room were hung with gorgeous pictures, and directly opposite to me
+was a portrait of the Duchess of Sutherland, by Sir Thomas Lawrence,
+which has figured largely in our souvenirs and books of beauty. She is
+represented with a little child in her arms; this child, now Lady
+Blantyre, was sitting opposite to me at table, with a charming little
+girl of her own, of about the same apparent age. When one sees such
+things, one almost fancies this to be a fairy palace, where the cold
+demons of age and time have lost their power.
+
+I was seated next to Lord Lansdowne, who conversed much with me about
+affairs in America. It seems to me that the great men of the old world
+regard our country thoughtfully. It is a new development of society,
+acting every day with greater and greater power on the old world; nor is
+it yet clearly seen what its final results will be. His observations
+indicated a calm, clear, thoughtful mind--an accurate observer of life
+and history.
+
+Meanwhile the servants moved noiselessly to and fro, taking up the
+various articles on the table, and offering them to the guests in a
+peculiarly quiet manner. One of the dishes brought to me was a plover's
+nest, precisely as the plover made it, with five little blue speckled
+eggs in it. This mode of serving plover's eggs, as I understand it, is
+one of the fashions of-the day, and has something quite sylvan and
+picturesque about it; but it looked so, for all the world, like a
+robin's nest that I used to watch out in our home orchard, that I had it
+not in my heart to profane the sanctity of the image by eating one of
+the eggs.
+
+The _cuisine_ of these West End regions appears to be entirely under
+French legislation, conducted by Parisian artists, skilled in all subtle
+and metaphysical combinations of ethereal possibilities, quite
+inscrutable to the eye of sense. Her grace's _chef_, I have heard it
+said elsewhere, bears the reputation of being the first artist of his
+class in England. The profession as thus sublimated bears the same
+proportion to the old substantial English cookery that Mozart's music
+does to Handel's, or Midsummer Night's Dream to Paradise Lost.
+
+This meal, called _lunch_, is with the English quite an institution,
+being apparently a less elaborate and ceremonious dinner. Every thing is
+placed upon the table at once, and ladies sit down without removing
+their bonnets; it is, I imagine, the most social and family meal of the
+day; one in which children are admitted to the table, even in the
+presence of company. It generally takes place in the middle of the day,
+and the dinner, which comes after it, at eight or nine in the evening,
+is in comparison only a ceremonial proceeding.
+
+I could not help thinking, as I looked around on so many men whom I had
+heard of historically all my life, how very much less they bear the
+marks of age than men who have been connected a similar length of time
+with the movements of our country. This appearance of youthfulness and
+alertness has a constantly deceptive influence upon one in England. I
+cannot realize that people are as old as history states them to be. In
+the present company there were men of sixty or seventy, whom I should
+have pronounced at the first glance to be fifty.
+
+Generally speaking our working minds seem to wear out their bodies
+faster; perhaps because our climate is more stimulating; more, perhaps,
+from the intenser stimulus of our political _régime_, which never leaves
+any thing long at rest.
+
+The tone of manners in this distinguished circle did not obtrude itself
+upon my mind as different from that of highly-educated people in our own
+country. It appeared simple, friendly, natural, and sincere. They talked
+like people who thought of what they were saying, rather than how to say
+it. The practice of thorough culture and good breeding is substantially
+the same through the world, though smaller conventionalities may differ.
+
+After lunch the whole party ascended to the picture gallery, passing on
+our way the grand staircase and hall, said to be the most magnificent in
+Europe. All that wealth could command of artistic knowledge and skill
+has been expended here to produce a superb result. It fills the entire
+centre of the building, extending up to the roof and surmounted by a
+splendid dome. On three sides a gallery runs round it supported by
+pillars. To this gallery you ascend on the fourth side by a staircase,
+which midway has a broad, flat landing, from which stairs ascend, on the
+right and left, into the gallery. The whole hall and staircase, carpeted
+with a scarlet footcloth, give a broad, rich mass of coloring, throwing
+out finely the statuary and gilded balustrades. On the landing is a
+marble statue of a Sibyl, by Rinaldi. The walls are adorned by gorgeous
+frescos from Paul Veronese. What is peculiar in the arrangements of this
+hall is, that although so extensive, it still wears an air of warm
+homelikeness and comfort, as if it might be a delightful place to lounge
+and enjoy life, amid the ottomans, sofas, pictures, and statuary, which
+are disposed here and there throughout.
+
+All this, however, I passed rapidly by as I ascended the staircase, and
+passed onward to the picture gallery. This was a room about a hundred
+feet long by forty wide, surmounted by a dome gorgeously finished with
+golden palm, trees and carving. This hall is lighted in the evening by a
+row of gaslights placed outside the ground glass of the dome; this light
+is concentrated and thrown down by strong reflectors, communicating thus
+the most brilliant radiance without the usual heat of gas. This gallery
+is peculiarly rich in paintings of the Spanish school. Among them are
+two superb Murillos, taken from convents by Marshal Soult, during the
+time of his career in Spain.
+
+There was a painting by Paul de la Roche of the Earl of Strafford led
+forth to execution, engravings of which we have seen in the print shops
+in America. It is a strong and striking picture, and has great dramatic
+effect. But there was a painting in one corner by a Flemish artist,
+whose name I do not now remember, representing Christ under examination
+before Caiaphas. It was a candle-light scene, and only two faces were
+very distinct; the downcast, calm, resolute face of Christ, in which was
+written a perfect knowledge of his approaching doom, and the eager,
+perturbed vehemence of the high priest, who was interrogating him. On
+the frame was engraved the lines,--
+
+  "He was wounded for our transgressions,
+  He was bruised for our iniquities;
+  The chastisement of our peace was upon him,
+  And with his stripes we are healed."
+
+The presence of this picture here in the midst of this scene was very
+affecting to me.
+
+The company now began to assemble and throng the gallery, and very soon
+the vast room was crowded. Among the throng I remember many
+presentations, but of course must have forgotten many more. Archbishop
+Whately was there, with Mrs. and Miss Whately; Macaulay, with two of
+his sisters; Milman, the poet and historian; the Bishop of Oxford,
+Chevalier Bunsen and lady, and many more.
+
+When all the company were together Lord Shaftesbury read a very short,
+kind, and considerate address in behalf of the ladies of England,
+expressive of their cordial welcome. The address will be seen in the
+Morning Advertiser, which I send you. The company remained a while after
+this, walking through the rooms and conversing in different groups, and
+I talked with several. Archbishop Whately, I thought, seemed rather
+inclined to be jocose: he seems to me like some of our American divines;
+a man who pays little attention to forms, and does not value them. There
+is a kind of brusque humor in his address, a downright heartiness, which
+reminds one of western character. If he had been born in our latitude,
+in Kentucky or Wisconsin, the natives would have called him Whately, and
+said he was a real steamboat on an argument. This is not precisely the
+kind of man we look for in an archbishop. One sees traces of this humor
+in his Historic Doubts concerning the Existence of Napoleon. I conversed
+with some who knew him intimately, and they said that he delighted in
+puns and odd turns of language.
+
+I was also introduced to the Bishop of Oxford, who is a son of
+Wilberforce. He is a short man, of very youthful appearance, with bland,
+graceful, courteous manners. He is much admired as a speaker. I heard
+him spoken of as one of the most popular preachers of the day.
+
+I must not forget to say that many ladies of the society of Friends were
+here, and one came and put on to my arm a reticule, in which, she said,
+were carried about the very first antislavery tracts ever distributed in
+England. At that time the subject of antislavery was as unpopular in
+England as it can be at this day any where in the world, and I trust
+that a day will come when the subject will be as popular in South
+Carolina as it is now in England. People always glory in the right after
+they have done it.
+
+After a while the company dispersed over the house to look at the rooms.
+There are all sorts of parlors and reception rooms, furnished with the
+same correct taste. Each room had its predominant color; among them blue
+was a particular favorite.
+
+The carpets were all of those small figures I have described, the blue
+ones being of the same pattern with the green. The idea, I suppose, is
+to produce a mass of color of a certain tone, and not to distract the
+eye with the complicated pattern. Where so many objects of art and
+_virtu_ are to be exhibited, without this care in regulating and
+simplifying the ground tints, there would be no unity in the impression.
+This was my philosophizing on the matter, and if it is not the reason
+why it is done, it ought to be. It is as good a theory as most theories,
+at any rate.
+
+Before we went away I made a little call on the Lady Constance
+Grosvenor, and saw the future Marquis of Westminster, heir to the
+largest estate in England. His beautiful mother is celebrated in the
+annals of the court journal as one of the handsomest ladies in England.
+His little lordship was presented to me in all the dignity of long,
+embroidered clothes, being then, I believe, not quite a fortnight old,
+and I can assure you that he demeaned himself with a gravity becoming
+his rank and expectations.
+
+There is a more than common interest attached to these children by one
+who watches the present state of the world. On the character and
+education of the princes and nobility of this generation the future
+history of England must greatly depend.
+
+This Stafford House meeting, in any view of it, is a most remarkable
+fact. Kind and gratifying as its arrangements have been to me, I am far
+from appropriating it to myself individually, as a personal honor. I
+rather regard it as the most public expression possible of the feelings
+of the women of England on one of the most important questions of our
+day--that, of individual liberty considered in its religious bearings.
+
+The most splendid of England's palaces has this day opened its doors to
+the slave. Its treasures of wealth and of art, its prestige of high name
+and historic memories, have been consecrated to the acknowledgment of
+Christianity in that form, wherein, in our day, it is most frequently
+denied--the recognition of the brotherhood of the human family, and the
+equal religious value of every human soul. A fair and noble hand by this
+meeting has fixed, in the most public manner, an ineffaceable seal to
+the beautiful sentiments of that most Christian document, the letter of
+the ladies of Great Britain to the ladies of America. That letter and
+this public attestation of it are now historic facts, which wait their
+time and the judgment of advancing Christianity.
+
+Concerning that letter I have one or two things to say. Nothing can be
+more false than the insinuation that has been thrown out in some
+American papers, that it was a political movement. It had its first
+origin in the deep religious feelings of the man whose whole life has
+been devoted to the abolition of the white-labor slavery of Great
+Britain; the man whose eye explored the darkness of the collieries, and
+counted the weary steps of the cotton spinners--who penetrated the dens
+where the insane were tortured with darkness, and cold, and stripes; and
+threaded the loathsome alleys of London, haunts of fever and cholera:
+this man it was, whose heart was overwhelmed by the tale of American
+slavery, and who could find no relief from, this distress except in
+raising some voice to the ear of Christianity. Fearful of the jealousy
+of political interference, Lord Shaftesbury published an address to the
+ladies of England, in which he told them that he felt himself moved by
+an irresistible impulse to entreat them to raise their voice, in the
+name of a common Christianity and womanhood, to their American sisters.
+The abuse which has fallen upon him for this most Christian proceeding
+does not in the least surprise him, because it is of the kind that has
+always met him in every benevolent movement. When in the Parliament of
+England he was pleading for women in the collieries who were harnessed
+like beasts of burden, and made to draw heavy loads through miry and
+dark passages, and for children who were taken at three years old to
+labor where the sun never shines, he was met with determined and furious
+opposition and obloquy--accused of being a disorganizer, and of wishing
+to restore the dark ages. Very similar accusations have attended all his
+efforts for the laboring classes during the long course of seventeen
+years, which resulted at last in the triumphant passage of the factory
+bill.
+
+We in America ought to remember that the gentle remonstrance of the
+letter of the ladies of England contains, in the mildest form, the
+sentiments of universal Christendom. Rebukes much more pointed are
+coming back to us even from, our own missionaries. A day is coming when,
+past all the temporary currents of worldly excitement, we shall, each of
+us, stand alone face to face with the perfect purity of our Redeemer.
+The thought of such a final interview ought certainly to modify all our
+judgments now, that we may strive to approve only what we shall then
+approve.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+
+MY DEAR C.:--
+
+As to those ridiculous stories about the Duchess of Sutherland, which
+have found their way into many of the prints in America, one has only to
+be here, moving in society, to see how excessively absurd they are.
+
+All my way through Scotland, and through England, I was associating,
+from day to day, with people of every religious denomination, and every
+rank of life. I have been with, dissenters and with churchmen; with the
+national Presbyterian church and the free Presbyterian; with Quakers and
+Baptists.
+
+In all these circles I have heard the great and noble of the land freely
+spoken of and canvassed, and if there had been the least shadow of a
+foundation for any such accusations, I certainly should have heard it
+recognized in some manner. If in no other, such warm friends as I have
+heard speak would have alluded to the subject in the way of defence; but
+I have actually never heard any allusion of any sort, as if there was
+any thing to be explained or accounted for.
+
+As I have before intimated, the Howard family, to which the duchess
+belongs, is one which has always been on the side of popular rights and
+popular reform. Lord Carlisle, her brother, has been a leader of the
+people, particularly during the time of the corn-law reformation, and
+_she_ has been known to take a wide and generous interest in all these
+subjects. Every where that I have moved through Scotland and England I
+have heard her kindness of heart, her affability of manner, and her
+attention to the feelings of others spoken of as marked characteristics.
+
+Imagine, then, what people must think when they find in respectable
+American prints the absurd story of her turning her tenants out into the
+snow, and ordering the cottages to be set on fire over their heads
+because they would not go out.
+
+But, if you ask how such an absurd story could ever have been made up,
+whether there is the least foundation to make it on, I answer, that it
+is the exaggerated report of a movement made by the present Duke of
+Sutherland's father, in the year 1811, and which was part of a great
+movement that passed through, the Highlands of Scotland, when the
+advancing progress of civilization began to make it necessary to change
+the estates from military to agricultural establishments.
+
+Soon after the union of the crowns of England and Scotland, the border
+chiefs found it profitable to adopt upon their estates that system, of
+agriculture to which their hills were adapted, rather than to continue
+the maintenance of military retainers. Instead of keeping garrisons,
+with small armies, in a district, they decided to keep only so many as
+could profitably cultivate the land. The effect of this, of course, was
+like disbanding an army. It threw many people out of employ, and forced
+them to seek for a home elsewhere. Like many other movements which, in
+their final results, are beneficial to society, this was at first
+vehemently resisted, and had to be carried into effect in some cases by
+force. As I have said, it began first in the southern counties of
+Scotland, soon after the union of the English and Scottish crowns, and
+gradually crept northward--one county after another yielding to the
+change. To a certain extent, as it progressed northward, the demand for
+labor in the great towns absorbed the surplus population; but when it
+came into the extreme Highlands, this refuge was wanting. Emigration to
+America now became the resource; and the surplus population were induced
+to this by means such as the Colonization Society now recommends and
+approves for promoting emigration to Liberia.
+
+The first farm that was so formed on the Sutherland estate was in 1806.
+The great change was made in 1811-12, and completed in 1819-20.
+
+The Sutherland estates are in the most northern portion of Scotland. The
+distance of this district from the more advanced parts of the kingdom,
+the total want of roads, the unfrequent communication by sea, and the
+want of towns, made it necessary to adopt a different course in regard
+to the location of the Sutherland population from that which
+circumstances had provided in other parts of Scotland, where they had
+been removed from the bleak and uncultivable mountains. They had lots
+given them near the sea, or in more fertile spots, where, by labor and
+industry, they might maintain themselves. They had two years allowed
+them for preparing for the change, without payment of rent. Timber for
+their houses was given, and many other facilities for assisting their
+change.
+
+The general agent of the Sutherland estate is Mr. Loch. In a speech of
+this gentleman in the House of Commons, on the second reading of the
+Scotch poor-law bill, June 12, 1845, he states the following fact with
+regard to the management of the Sutherland estate during this period,
+from 1811 to 1833, which certainly can speak for itself: "I can state as
+from fact that, from 1811 to 1833, not one sixpence of rent has been
+received from that county, but, on the contrary, there has been sent
+there, for the benefit and improvement of the people, a sum exceeding
+sixty thousand pounds."
+
+Mr. Loch goes on in the same speech to say, "There is no set of people
+more industrious than the people of Sutherland. Thirty years since they
+were engaged in illegal distillation to a very great extent; at the
+present moment there is not, I believe, an illegal still in the county.
+Their morals have improved as those habits have been abandoned; and they
+have added many hundreds, I believe thousands, of acres to the land in
+cultivation since they were placed upon the shore.
+
+"Previous to that change to which I have referred, they exported very
+few cattle, and hardly any thing else. They were, also, every now and
+then, exposed to all the difficulties of extreme famine. In the years
+1812-13, and 1816-17, so great was the misery that it was necessary to
+send down oatmeal for their supply to the amount of nine thousand
+pounds, and that was given to the people. But, since industrious habits
+were introduced, and they were settled within reach of fishing, no such
+calamity has overtaken them. Their condition was then so low that they
+were obliged to bleed their cattle, during the winter, and mix the blood
+with the remnant of meal they had, in order to save them from
+starvation.
+
+"Since then the country has improved so much that the fish, in
+particular, which they exported, in 1815, from one village alone,
+Helmsdale, (which, previous to 1811, did not exist,) amounted to five
+thousand three hundred and eighteen barrels of herring, and in 1844
+thirty-seven thousand five hundred and ninety-four barrels, giving
+employment to about three thousand nine hundred people. This extends
+over the whole of the county, in which fifty-six thousand barrels were
+cured.
+
+"Do not let me be supposed to say that there are not cases requiring
+attention: it must be so in a large population; but there can be no
+means taken by a landlord, or by those under him, that are not bestowed
+upon that tenantry.
+
+"It has been said that the contribution by the heritor (the duke) to one
+kirk session for the poor was but six pounds. Now, in the eight parishes
+which are called Sutherland proper, the amount of the contribution of
+the Duke of Sutherland to the kirk session is forty-two pounds a year.
+That is a very small sum but that sum merely is so given because the
+landlord thinks that he can distribute his charity in a more beneficial
+manner to the people; and the amount of charity which he gives--and
+which, I may say, is settled on them, for it is given regularly--is
+above four hundred and fifty pounds a year.
+
+"Therefore the statements that have been made, so far from being
+correct, are in every way an exaggeration of what is the fact. No
+portion of the kingdom has advanced in prosperity so much; and if the
+honorable member (Mr. S. Crawford) will go down there, I will give him
+every facility for seeing the state of the people, and he shall judge
+with his own eyes whether my representation be not correct. I could go
+through a great many other particulars, but I will not trouble the house
+now with them. The statements I have made are accurate, and I am quite
+ready to prove them in any way that is necessary."
+
+This same Mr. Loch has published a pamphlet, in which he has traced out
+the effects of the system pursued on the Sutherland estate, in many very
+important particulars. It appears from this that previously to 1811 the
+people were generally sub-tenants to middle men, who exacted high rents,
+and also various perquisites, such as the delivery of poultry and eggs,
+giving so many days' labor in harvest time, cutting and carrying peat
+and stones for building.
+
+Since 1811 the people have become immediate tenants, at a greatly
+diminished rate of rent, and released from all these exactions. For
+instance, in two parishes, in 1812, the rents were one thousand five
+hundred and ninety-three pounds, and in 1823 they were only nine hundred
+and seventy-two pounds. In another parish the reduction of rents has
+amounted, on an average, to thirty-six per cent. Previous to 1811 the
+houses were turf huts of the poorest description, in many instances the
+cattle being kept under the same roof with the family. Since 1811 a
+large proportion, of their houses have been rebuilt in a superior
+manner--the landlord having paid them for their old timber where it
+could not be moved, and having also contributed the new timber, with
+lime.
+
+Before 1811 all the rents of the estates were used for the personal
+profit of the landlord; but since that time, both by the present duke
+and his father, all the rents have been expended on improvements in the
+county, besides sixty thousand pounds more which have been remitted
+from. England for the purpose. This money has been spent on churches,
+school houses, harbors, public inns, roads, and bridges.
+
+In 1811 there was not a carriage road in the county, and only two
+bridges. Since that time four hundred and thirty miles of road have been
+constructed on the estate, at the expense of the proprietor and tenants.
+There is not a turnpike gate in the county, and yet the roads are kept
+perfect.
+
+Before 1811 the mail was conveyed entirely by a foot runner, and there
+was but one post office in the county; and there was no direct post
+across the county, but letters to the north and west were forwarded
+once a month. A mail coach has since been established, to which the late
+Duke of Sutherland contributed more than two thousand six hundred
+pounds; and since 1834 mail gigs have been established to convey letters
+to the north and west coast, towards which the Duke of Sutherland
+contributes three hundred pounds a year. There are thirteen post offices
+and sub-offices in the county. Before 1811 there was no inn in the
+county fit for the reception of strangers. Since that time there have
+been fourteen inns either built or enlarged by the duke.
+
+Before 1811 there was scarcely a cart on the estate; all the carriage
+was done on the backs of ponies. The cultivation of the interior was
+generally executed with a rude kind of spade, and there was not a gig in
+the county. In 1845 there were one thousand one hundred and thirty carts
+owned on the estate, and seven hundred and eight ploughs, also forty-one
+gigs.
+
+Before 1812 there was no baker, and only two shops. In 1845 there were
+eight bakers and forty-six grocer's shops, in nearly all of which shoe
+blacking was sold to some extent, an unmistakable evidence of advancing
+civilization.
+
+In 1808 the cultivation of the coast side of Sutherland was so defective
+that it was necessary often, in a fall of snow, to cut down the young
+Scotch firs to feed the cattle on; and in 1808 hay had to be imported.
+_Now_ the coast side of Sutherland exhibits an extensive district of
+land cultivated according to the best principles of modern agriculture;
+several thousand acres have been added to the arable land by these
+improvements.
+
+Before 1811 there were no woodlands of any extent on the estate, and
+timber had to be obtained from a distance. Since that time many
+thousand acres of woodland have been planted, the thinnings of which,
+being sold to the people at a moderate rate, have greatly increased
+their comfort and improved their domestic arrangements.
+
+Before 1811 there were only two blacksmiths in the county. In 1845 there
+were forty-two blacksmiths and sixty-three carpenters. Before 1829 the
+exports of the county consisted of black cattle of an inferior
+description, pickled salmon, and some ponies; but these were precarious
+sources of profit, as many died in winter for want of food; for example,
+in the spring of 1807 two hundred cows, five hundred cattle, and more
+than two hundred ponies died in the parish of Kildonan alone. Since that
+time the measures pursued by the Duke of Sutherland, in introducing
+improved breeds of cattle, pigs, and modes of agriculture, have produced
+results in exports which tell their own story. About forty thousand
+sheep and one hundred and eighty thousand fleeces of wool are exported
+annually; also fifty thousand barrels of herring.
+
+The whole fishing village of Helmsdale has been built since that time.
+It now contains from thirteen to fifteen curing yards covered with
+slate, and several streets with houses similarly built. The herring
+fishery, which has been mentioned as so productive, has been established
+since the change, and affords employment to three thousand nine hundred
+people.
+
+Since 1811, also, a savings bank has been established in every parish,
+of which the Duke of Sutherland is patron and treasurer, and the savings
+have been very considerable.
+
+The education of the children of the people has been a subject of deep
+interest to the Duke of Sutherland. Besides the parochial schools,
+(which answer, I suppose, to our district schools,) of which the
+greater number have been rebuilt or repaired at an expense exceeding
+what is legally required for such purposes, the Duke of Sutherland
+contributes to the support of several schools for young females, at
+which sewing and other branches of education are taught; and in 1844 he
+agreed to establish twelve general assembly schools in such parts of the
+county as were without the sphere of the parochial schools, and to build
+school and schoolmasters' houses, which will, upon an average, cost two
+hundred pounds each; and to contribute annually two hundred pounds in
+aid of salaries to the teachers, besides a garden and cows' grass; and
+in 1845 he made an arrangement with the education committee of the Free
+church, whereby no child, of whatever persuasion, will be beyond the
+reach of moral and religious education.
+
+There are five medical gentlemen on the estate, three of whom receive
+allowances from the Duke of Sutherland for attendance on the poor in the
+districts in which they reside.
+
+An agricultural association, or farmers' club, has been formed under the
+patronage of the Duke of Sutherland, of which the other proprietors in
+the county, and the larger tenantry, are members, which is in a very
+active and flourishing state. They have recently invited Professor
+Johnston to visit Sutherland, and give lectures on agricultural
+chemistry.
+
+The total population of the Sutherland estate is twenty-one thousand
+seven hundred and eighty-four. To have the charge and care of so large
+an estate, of course, must require very systematic arrangements; but a
+talent for system seems to be rather the forte of the English.
+
+The estate is first divided into three districts, and each district is
+under the superintendence of a factor, who communicates with the duke
+through a general agent. Besides this, when the duke is on the estate,
+which is during a portion of every year, he receives on Monday whoever
+of his tenants wishes to see him. Their complaints or wishes are
+presented in writing; he takes them into consideration, and gives
+written replies.
+
+Besides the three factors there is a ground officer, or sub-factor, in
+every parish, and an agriculturist in the Dunrobin district, who gives
+particular attention to instructing the people in the best methods of
+farming. The factors, the ground officers, and the agriculturists all
+work to one common end. They teach the advantages of draining; of
+ploughing deep, and forming their ridges in straight lines; of
+constructing tanks for saving liquid manure. The young farmers also pick
+up a great deal of knowledge when working as ploughmen or laborers on
+the more immediate grounds of the estate.
+
+The head agent, Mr. Loch, has been kind enough to put into my hands a
+general report of the condition of the estate, which he drew up for the
+inspection of the duke, May 12, 1853, and in which he goes minutely over
+the condition of every part of the estate.
+
+One anecdote of the former Duke of Sutherland will show the spirit which
+has influenced the family in their management of the estate. In 1817,
+when there was much suffering on account of bad seasons, the Duke of
+Sutherland sent down his chief agent to look into the condition of the
+people, who desired the ministers of the parishes to send in their lists
+of the poor. To his surprise it was found that there were located on the
+estate a number of people who had settled there without leave. They
+amounted to four hundred and eight families, or two thousand persons;
+and though they had no legal title to remain where they were, no
+hesitation was shown in supplying them with food in the same manner
+with those who were tenants, on the sole condition that on the first
+opportunity they should take cottages on the sea shore, and become
+industrious people. It was the constant object of the duke to keep the
+rents of his poorer tenants at a nominal amount.
+
+What led me more particularly to inquire into these facts was, that I
+received by mail, while in London, an account containing some of these
+stories, which had been industriously circulated in America. There were
+dreadful accounts of cruelties practised in the process of inducing the
+tenants to change their places of residence. The following is a specimen
+of these stories:--
+
+     "I was present at the pulling down and burning of the house of
+     William Chisholm, Badinloskin, in which was lying his wife's
+     mother, an old, bed-ridden woman of near one hundred years of age,
+     none of the family being present. I informed the persons about to
+     set fire to the house of this circumstance, and prevailed on them
+     to wait till Mr. Sellar came. On his arrival I told him of the poor
+     old woman being in a condition unfit for removal. He replied, 'Damn
+     her, the old witch, she has lived too long; let her burn.' Fire was
+     immediately set to the house, and the blankets in which she was
+     carried were in flames before she could be got out. She was placed
+     in a little shed, and it was with great difficulty they were
+     prevented from firing that also. The old woman's daughter arrived
+     while the house was on fire, and assisted the neighbors in removing
+     her mother out of the flames and smoke, presenting a picture of
+     horror which I shall never forget, but cannot attempt to describe.
+     She died within five days."
+
+With regard to this story Mr. Loch, the agent, says, "I must notice the
+only thing like a fact stated in the newspaper extract which you sent to
+me, wherein Mr. Sellar is accused of acts of cruelty towards some of the
+people. This Mr. Sellar tested, by bringing an action against the then
+sheriff substitute of the county. He obtained a verdict for heavy
+damages. The sheriff, by whom, the slander was propagated, left the
+county. Both are since dead."
+
+Having, through Lord Shaftesbury's kindness, received the benefit of Mr.
+Loch's corrections to this statement, I am permitted to make a little
+further extract from his reply. He says,--
+
+"In addition to what I was able to say in my former paper, I can now
+state that the Duke of Sutherland has received, from, one of the most
+determined opposers of the measure, who travelled to the north of
+Scotland as editor of a newspaper, a letter regretting all he had
+written on the subject, being convinced that he was entirely
+misinformed. As you take so much interest in the subject, I will
+conclude by saying that nothing could exceed the prosperity of the
+county during the past year; their stock, sheep, and other things sold
+at high prices; their crops of grain and turnips were never so good, and
+the potatoes were free from all disease; rents have been paid better
+than was ever known. * * * As an instance of the improved habits of the
+farmers, no house is now built for them that they do not require a hot
+bath and water closets."
+
+From this long epitome you can gather the following results; first, if
+the system were a bad one, the Duchess of Sutherland had nothing to do
+with it, since it was first introduced in 1806, the same year her grace
+was born; and the accusation against Mr. Sellar dates in 1811, when her
+grace was five or six years old. The Sutherland arrangements were
+completed in 1819, and her grace was not married to the duke till 1823,
+so that, had the arrangement been the worst in the world, it is nothing
+to the purpose so far as she is concerned.
+
+As to whether the arrangement _is_ a bad one, the facts which have been
+stated speak for themselves. To my view it is an almost sublime instance
+of the benevolent employment of superior wealth and power in shortening
+the struggles of advancing civilization, and elevating in a few years a
+whole community to a point of education and material prosperity, which,
+unassisted, they might never have obtained,
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+
+LONDON, Sunday, May 8.
+
+MY DEAR S.:--
+
+Mr. S. is very unwell, in bed, worn out with, the threefold labor of
+making and receiving calls, visiting, and delivering public addresses.
+C. went to hear Dr. McNeile, of Liverpool, preach--one of the leading
+men of the established church evangelical party, a strong millenarian.
+C. said that he was as fine a looking person in canonicals as he ever
+saw in the pulpit. In doctrine he is what we in America should call very
+strong old school. I went, as I had always predetermined to do, if ever
+I came to London, to hear Baptist Noel, drawn thither by the melody and
+memory of those beautiful hymns of his[N], which must meet a response in
+every Christian heart. He is tall and well formed, with one of the most
+classical and harmonious heads I ever saw. Singularly enough, he
+reminded me of a bust of Achilles at the London Museum. He is indeed a
+swift-footed Achilles, but in another race, another warfare. Born of a
+noble family, naturally endowed with sensitiveness and ideality to
+appreciate all the amenities and suavities of that brilliant sphere, the
+sacrifice must have been inconceivably great for him to renounce favor
+and preferment, position in society,--which, here in England, means more
+than Americans can ever dream of,--to descend from being a court
+chaplain, to become a preacher in a Baptist dissenting chapel. Whatever
+may be thought of the correctness of the intellectual conclusions which
+led him to such a step, no one can fail to revere the strength and
+purity of principle which could prompt to such sacrifices. Many,
+perhaps, might have preferred that he should have chosen a less decided
+course. But if his judgment really led to these results, I see no way in
+which it was possible for him to have avoided it. It was with an emotion
+of reverence that I contrasted the bareness, plainness, and poverty of
+the little chapel with that evident air of elegance and cultivation
+which appeared in all that he said and did. The sermon was on the text,
+"Now abideth faith, hope, and charity, these three." Naturally enough,
+the subject divided itself into faith, hope, and charity.
+
+His style calm, flowing, and perfectly harmonious, his delivery serene
+and graceful, the whole flowed over one like a calm and clear strain of
+music. It was a sermon after the style of Tholuck and other German
+sermonizers, who seem to hold that the purpose of preaching is not to
+rouse the soul by an antagonistic struggle with sin through the reason,
+but to soothe the passions, quiet the will, and bring the mind into a
+frame in which it shall incline to follow its own convictions of duty.
+They take for granted, that the reason why men sin is not because they
+are ignorant, but because they are distracted and tempted by passion;
+that they do not need so much to be told what is their duty, as
+persuaded to do it. To me, brought up on the very battle field of
+controversial theology, accustomed to hear every religious idea guarded
+by definitions, and thoroughly hammered on a logical anvil before the
+preacher thought of making any use of it for heart or conscience,
+though I enjoyed the discourse extremely, I could not help wondering
+what an American theological professor would make of such a sermon.
+
+To preach on faith, hope, and charity all in one discourse--why, we
+should have six sermons on the nature of faith to begin with: on
+speculative faith; saving faith; practical faith, and the faith of
+miracles; then we should have the laws of faith, and the connection of
+faith with evidence, and the nature of evidence, and the different kinds
+of evidence, and so on. For my part I have had a suspicion since I have
+been here, that a touch of this kind of thing might improve English
+preaching; as, also, I do think that sermons of the kind I have
+described would be useful, by way of alterative, among us. If I could
+have but one of the two manners, I should prefer our own, because I
+think that this habit of preaching is one of the strongest educational
+forces that forms the mind of our country.
+
+After the service was over I went into the vestry, and was introduced to
+Mr. Noel. The congregation of the established church, to which he
+ministered during his connection with it, are still warmly attached to
+him. His leaving them was a dreadful trial; some of them can scarcely
+mention his name without tears. C. says, with regard to the church
+singing, as far as he heard it, it is twenty years behind that in
+Boston. In the afternoon I staid at home to nurse Mr. S. A note from
+Lady John Russell inviting us there.
+
+Monday, May 9. I should tell you that at the Duchess of Sutherland's an
+artist, named Burnard, presented me with a very fine cameo head of
+Wilberforce, cut from a statue in Westminster Abbey. He is from
+Cornwall, in the south of England, and has attained some celebrity as an
+artist. He wanted to take a bust of me; and though it always makes me
+laugh to think of having a new likeness, considering the melancholy
+results of all former enterprises, yet still I find myself easy to be
+entreated, in hopes, as Mr. Micawber says, that something may "turn up,"
+though I fear the difficulty is radical in the subject. So I made an
+appointment with Mr. Burnard, and my very kind friend, Mr. B., in
+addition to all the other confusions I have occasioned in his mansion,
+consented to have his study turned into a studio. Upon the heels of this
+comes another sculptor, who has a bust begun, which he says is going to
+be finished in Parian, and published whether I sit for it or not,
+though, of course, he would much prefer to get a look at me now and
+then. Well, Mr. B. says he may come, too; so there you may imagine me in
+the study, perched upon a very high stool, dividing my glances between
+the two sculptors, one of whom, is taking one side of my face, and one
+the other.
+
+To-day I went with Mr. and Mrs. B. to hear the examination of a
+borough-school for boys. Mrs. B. told me it was not precisely a charity
+school, but one where the means of education were furnished at so cheap
+a rate, that the poorest classes could enjoy them. Arrived at the hall,
+we found quite a number of _distingués_, bishops, lords, and clergy,
+besides numbers of others assembled to hear. The room was hung round
+with the drawings of the boys, and specimens of handwriting. I was quite
+astonished at some of them. They were executed by pen, pencil, or
+crayon--drawings of machinery, landscapes, heads, groups, and flowers,
+all in a style which any parent among us would be proud to exhibit, if
+done by our own children. The boys looked very bright and intelligent,
+and I was delighted with the system, of instruction which had evidently
+been pursued with them. We heard them first in the reading and
+recitation of poetry; after that in arithmetic and algebra, then in
+natural philosophy, and last, and most satisfactorily, in the Bible. It
+was perfectly evident from the nature of the questions and answers, that
+it was not a crammed examination, and that the readiness of reply
+proceeded not from a mere commitment of words, but from a system of
+intellectual training, which led to a good understanding of the subject.
+In arithmetic and algebra the answers were so remarkable as to induce
+the belief in some that the boys must have been privately prepared on
+their questions; but the teacher desired Lord John Russell to write down
+any number of questions which he wished to have given to the toys to
+solve, from his own mind. Lord John wrote down two or three problems,
+and I was amused at the zeal and avidity with which the boys seized upon
+and mastered them. Young England was evidently wide awake, and the prime
+minister himself was not to catch them, napping. The little fellows'
+eyes-glistened as they rattled off their solutions. As I know nothing
+about mathematics, I was all the more impressed; but when they came to
+be examined in the Bible, I was more astonished than ever. The masters
+had said that they would be willing any of the gentlemen should question
+them, and Mr. B. commenced a course of questions on the doctrines of
+Christianity; asking, Is there any text by which you can prove this, or
+that? and immediately, with great accuracy, the boys would cite text
+upon text, quoting not only the more obvious ones, but sometimes
+applying Scripture with an ingenuity and force which I had not thought
+of, and always quoting chapter and verse of every text. I do not know
+who is at the head of this teaching, nor how far it is a sample of
+English schools; but I know that these boys had been wonderfully well
+taught, and I felt all my old professional enthusiasm arising.
+
+After the examination Lord John came forward, and gave the boys a good
+fatherly talk. He told them that they had the happiness to live under a
+free government, where all offices are alike open to industry and merit,
+and where any boy might hope by application and talent to rise to any
+station below that of the sovereign. He made some sensible, practical
+comments, on their Scripture lessons, and, in short, gave precisely such
+a kind of address as one of our New England judges or governors might to
+schoolboys in similar circumstances. Lord John hesitates a little in his
+delivery, but has a plain, common-sense way of "speaking right on,"
+which seems to be taking. He is a very simple man in his manners,
+apparently not at all self-conscious, and entered into the feelings of
+the boys and the masters with good-natured sympathy, which was very
+winning. I should think he was one of the kind of men who are always
+perfectly easy and self-possessed let what will come, and who never
+could be placed in a situation in which he did not feel himself quite at
+home, and perfectly competent to do whatever was to be done.
+
+To-day the Duchess of Sutherland called with the Duchess of Argyle. Miss
+Greenfield happened to be present, and I begged leave to present her,
+giving a slight sketch of her history. I was pleased with the kind and
+easy affability with which the Duchess of Sutherland conversed with her,
+betraying by no inflection of voice, and nothing in air or manner, the
+great lady talking with the poor girl. She asked all her questions with
+as much delicacy, and made her request to hear her sing with as much
+consideration and politeness, as if she had been addressing any one in
+her own circle. She seemed much pleased with her singing, and remarked
+that she should be happy to give her an opportunity of performing in
+Stafford House, so soon as she should be a little relieved of a heavy
+cold which seemed to oppress her at present. This, of course, will be
+decisive in her favor in London. The duchess is to let us know when the
+arrangement is completed.
+
+I never realized so much that there really is no natural prejudice
+against color in the human mind. Miss Greenfield is a dark mulattress,
+of a pleasing and gentle face, though by no means handsome. She is short
+and thick set, with a chest of great amplitude, as one would think on
+hearing her tenor. I have never seen in any of the persons to whom I
+have presented her the least indications of suppressed surprise or
+disgust, any more than we should exhibit on the reception of a
+dark-complexioned Spaniard or Portuguese. Miss Greenfield bears her
+success with much quietness and good sense.
+
+Tuesday, May 10. C. and I were to go to-day, with Mrs. Cropper and Lady
+Hatherton, to call on the poet Rogers. I was told that he was in very
+delicate health, but that he still received friends at his house. We
+found the house a perfect cabinet collection of the most rare and costly
+works of art--choicest marbles, vases, pictures, gems, and statuary met
+the eye every where. We spent the time in examining some of these while
+the servant went to announce us. The mild and venerable old man himself
+was the choicest picture of all. He has a splendid head, a benign face,
+and reminded me of an engraving I once saw of Titian. He seemed very
+glad to see us, spoke to me of the gathering at Stafford House, and
+asked me what I thought of the place. When I expressed my admiration, he
+said, "Ah, I have often said it is a fairy palace, and that the duchess
+is the good fairy." Again, he said, "I have seen all the palaces of
+Europe, but there is none that I prefer to this." Quite a large circle
+of friends now came in and were presented. He did not rise to receive
+them, but sat back in his easy chair, and conversed quietly with us all,
+sparkling out now and then in a little ripple of playfulness. In this
+room were his best beloved pictures, and it is his pleasure to show them
+to his friends.
+
+By a contrivance quite new to me, the pictures are made to revolve on a
+pivot, so that by touching a spring they move out from the wall, and can
+be seen in different lights. There was a picture over the mantel-piece
+of a Roman Triumphal Procession, painted by Rubens, which attracted my
+attention by its rich coloring and spirited representation of animals.
+
+The coloring of Rubens always satisfies my eye better than that of any
+other master, only a sort of want of grace in the conception disturbs
+me. In this case both conception and coloring are replete with beauty.
+Rogers seems to be carefully waited on by an attendant who has learned
+to interpret every motion and anticipate every desire.
+
+I took leave of him with a touch of sadness. Of all the brilliant circle
+of poets, which has so delighted us, he is the last--and he so feeble!
+His memories, I am told, extend back to a personal knowledge of Dr.
+Johnson. How I should like to sit by him, and search into that cabinet
+of recollections! He presented me his poems, beautifully illustrated by
+Turner, with his own autograph on the fly leaf. He writes still a clear,
+firm, beautiful hand, like a lady's.
+
+After that, we all went over to Stafford House, and the Duke and
+Duchess of Sutherland went with us into Lord Ellesmere's collection
+adjoining. Lord Ellesmere sails for America to-day, to be present at the
+opening of the Crystal Palace. He left us a very polite message. The
+Duchess of Argyle, with her two little boys, was there also. Lord
+Carlisle very soon came in, and with him--who do you think? Tell Hattie
+and Eliza if they could have seen the noble staghound that came bounding
+in with him, they would have turned from all the pictures on the wall to
+this living work of art.
+
+Landseer thinks he does well when he paints a dog; another man chisels
+one in stone: what would they think of themselves if they could string
+the nerves and muscles, and wake up the affections and instincts, of the
+real, living creature? That were to be an artist indeed! The dog walked
+about the gallery, much at home, putting his nose up first to one and
+then another of the distinguished persons by whom he was surrounded; and
+once in a while stopping, in an easy race about the hall, would plant
+himself before a picture, with his head on one side, and an air of
+high-bred approval, much as I have seen young gentlemen do in similar
+circumstances. All he wanted was an eyeglass, and he would have been
+perfectly set up as a critic.
+
+As for the pictures, I have purposely delayed coming to them. Imagine a
+botanist dropped into the middle of a blooming prairie, waving with
+unnumbered dyes and forms of flowers, and only an hour to examine and
+make acquaintance with them! Room, after room we passed, filled with
+Titians, Murillos, Guidos, &c. There were four Raphaels, the first I had
+ever seen. Must I confess the truth? Raphael had been my dream for
+years. I expected something which would overcome and bewilder me. I
+expected a divine baptism, a celestial mesmerism; and I found four very
+beautiful pictures--pictures which left me quite in possession of my
+senses, and at liberty to ask myself, am I pleased, and how much? It was
+not that I did not admire, for I did; but that I did not admire enough.
+The pictures are all holy families, cabinet size: the figures, Mary,
+Joseph, the infant Jesus, and John, in various attitudes. A little
+perverse imp in my heart suggested the questions, "If a modern artist
+had painted these, what would be thought of them? If I did not know it
+was Raphael, what should I think?" And I confess that, in that case, I
+should think that there was in one or two of them a certain hardness and
+sharpness of outline that was not pleasing to me. Neither, any more than
+Murillo, has he in these pictures shadowed forth, to my eye, the idea of
+Mary. Protestant as I am, no Catholic picture contents me. I thought to
+myself that I had seen among living women, and in a face not far off, a
+nobler and sweeter idea of womanhood.
+
+It is too much to ask of any earthly artist, however, to gratify the
+aspirations and cravings of those who have dreamed of them for years
+unsatisfied. Perhaps no earthly canvas and brash can accomplish this
+marvel. I think the idealist must lay aside his highest ideal, and be
+satisfied he shall never meet it, and then he will begin to enjoy. With
+this mood and understanding I did enjoy very much an Assumption of the
+Virgin, by Guido, and more especially Diana and her Nymphs, by Titian:
+in this were that softness of outline, and that blending of light and
+shadow into each other, of which I felt the want in the Raphaels. I felt
+as if there was a perfection of cultivated art in this, a classical
+elegance, which, so far as it went, left the eye or mind nothing to
+desire. It seemed to me that Titian was a Greek painter, the painter of
+an etherealized sensuousness, which leaves the spiritual nature wholly
+unmoved, and therefore all that he attempts he attains. Raphael, on the
+contrary, has spiritualism; his works enter a sphere where at is more
+difficult to satisfy the soul; nay, perhaps from the nature of the case,
+impossible.
+
+There were some glorious pieces of sunshine by Cuyp. There was a massive
+sea piece by Turner, in which the strong solemn swell of the green
+waves, and the misty wreathings of clouds, were powerfully given.
+
+There was a highly dramatic piece, by Paul de la Roche, representing
+Charles I. in a guard room, insulted by the soldiery. He sits, pale,
+calm, and resolute, while they are puffing tobacco smoke in his face,
+and passing vulgar jokes. His thoughts appear to be far away, his eyes
+looking beyond them with an air of patient, proud weariness.
+
+Independently of the pleasure one receives from particular pictures in
+these galleries, there is a general exaltation, apart from, critical
+considerations, an excitement of the nerves, a kind of dreamy state,
+which is a gain in our experience. Often in a landscape we first single
+out particular objects,--this old oak,--that cascade,--that ruin,--and
+derive from them, an individual joy; then relapsing, we view the
+landscape as a whole, and seem, to be surrounded by a kind of atmosphere
+of thought, the result of the combined influence of all. This state,
+too, I think is not without its influence in educating the æsthetic
+sense.
+
+Even in pictures which we comparatively reject, because we see them, in
+the presence of superior ones, there is a wealth of beauty which would
+grow on us from day to day, could we see them, often. When I give a sigh
+to the thought that in our country we are of necessity, to a great
+extent, shut from the world of art, I then rejoice in the inspiriting
+thought that Nature is ever the superior. No tree painting can compare
+with a splendid elm, in the plenitude of its majesty. There are
+colorings beyond those of Rubens poured forth around us in every autumn
+scene; there are Murillos smiling by our household firesides; and as for
+Madonnas and Venuses, I think with Byron,--
+
+  "I've seen more splendid women, ripe and real,
+  Than all the nonsense of their stone ideal."
+
+Still, I long for the full advent of our American, day of art, already
+dawning auspiciously.
+
+After finishing our inspection, we went back to Stafford House to lunch.
+
+In the evening we went to Lord John Russell's. We found Lady Russell and
+her daughters sitting quietly around the evening lamp, quite by
+themselves. She is elegant and interesting in her personal appearance,
+and has the same charm of simplicity and sincerity of manner which we
+have found in so marry of the upper sphere. She is the daughter of the
+Earl of Minto, and the second wife of Lord John. We passed here an
+entirely quiet and domestic evening, with only the family circle. The
+conversation turned on various topics of practical benevolence,
+connected with the care and education of the poorer classes. Allusion
+being made to Mrs. Tyler's letter, Lady Russell expressed some concern
+lest the sincere and well-intended expression of the feeling of the
+English ladies might have done harm. I said that I did not think the
+spirit of Mrs. Tyler's letter was to be taken as representing the
+feeling of American ladies generally,--only of that class who are
+determined to maintain the rightfulness of slavery.
+
+It seems to me that the better and more thinking part of the higher
+classes in England have conscientiously accepted the responsibility
+which the world has charged upon them of elevating and educating the
+poorer classes. In every circle since I have been here in England, I
+have heard the subject discussed as one of paramount importance.
+
+One or two young gentlemen dropped in in the course of the evening, and
+the discourse branched out on the various topics of the day; such as the
+weather, literature, art, spiritual rappings, and table turnings, and
+all the floating et ceteras of life. Lady Russell apologized for the
+absence of Lord John in Parliament, and invited us to dine with, them at
+their residence in Richmond Park next week, when there is to be a
+parliamentary recess.
+
+We left about ten o'clock, and went to pass the night with our friends
+Mr. and Mrs. Cropper at their hotel, being engaged to breakfast at the
+West End in the morning.
+
+END OF VOLUME I.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote A: Since my return to the United States I have been informed
+that the Freewill Baptist denomination have adopted the same rigid
+principle of slavery exclusion that characterizes the Scotch Seceders
+and the Quakers. Let this be known to their honor.]
+
+[Footnote B: This venerated, and erudite jurist, the friend and
+biographer of the celebrated Lord Jeffrey, has recently died.]
+
+[Footnote C: This, alas! is no longer true. By the recent passage of the
+infamous Nebraska bill, this whole region, with the exception of two
+states already organized, is laid open to slavery. This faithless
+measure was nobly resisted by a large and able minority in
+Congress--honor to them.]
+
+[Footnote D: This most learned and amiable judge recently died, while in
+the very act of charging a jury.]
+
+[Footnote E: This resolution, drawn and offered, I think, by my
+hospitable friend, Mr. Binney, I have mislaid, and cannot find it. It
+was, however, in character and spirit, just what Mr. James here declares
+it to be.]
+
+[Footnote F: I have been told since my return, that there are some
+slaveholding Congregational churches in the south; but they have no
+connection with our New England churches, and certainly are not
+generally known as Congregationalists distinct from the Presbyterians.]
+
+[Footnote G: This has always been supposed and claimed in the United
+States. Now the time has come to test its truth. If there is this
+antislavery feeling in nine tenths of the people, the impudent iniquity
+of the Nebraska bill will call it forth.]
+
+[Footnote H: Eight years ago I conscientiously approved and zealously
+defended this course of the American Board. Subsequent events have
+satisfied me, that, in the present circumstances of our country, making
+concessions to slaveholders, however slightly, and with whatever
+motives, even if not wrong in principle, is productive of no good. It
+does but strengthen slavery, and makes its demands still more
+exorbitant, and neutralizes the power of gospel truth.]
+
+[Footnote I: This state of things is fast changing. Church members at
+the south now defend slavery as right. This is a new thing.]
+
+[Footnote J: When your chimney has smoked as long as ours, it will, may
+be, need sweeping too.]
+
+[Footnote K: Had I known all about New York and Boston which recent
+examinations have developed, I should have answered very differently.
+The fact is, that we in America can no longer congratulate ourselves on
+not having a degraded and miserable class in our cities, and it will be
+seen to be necessary for us to arouse to the very same efforts which,
+have been so successfully making in England.]
+
+[Footnote L: This idea is beautifully wrought out by Mrs. Jamieson in
+her Characteristics of the Women of Shakspeare, to which, the author is
+indebted for the suggestion.]
+
+[Footnote M: James Russell Lowell's "Beaver Brook."]
+
+[Footnote N: The hymns beginning with, these lines, "If human, kindness
+meet return," and "Behold where, in a mortal form," are specimens.]
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN
+LANDS, VOLUME 1 ***
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+    <meta name="author" content="Harriet Beecher Stowe" />
+    <meta name="DC.Creator" content="Harriet Beecher Stowe" />
+    <meta name="DC.Title" content="Sunny Memories of Foreign Lands" />
+    <meta name="DC.Date" content="November 2004" />
+    <meta name="DC.Language" content="en-us" />
+    <title>The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sunny Memories of Foreign Lands by Harriet
+    Beecher Stowe</title>
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+  <body class="dgp">
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS, VOLUME 1 ***</div>
+    <div class="text">
+      <div class="front">
+        <div class="titlePage">
+          <h1 class="titlePart">Sunny Memories of Foreign Lands, Volume 1 (of 2)</h1>
+           by<br />
+          <span class="docAuthor" style="font-size: x-large;">Harriet Beecher
+          Stowe</span><br />
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <hr class="doublepage" />
+        <div class="div" id="toc">
+          <a id="toc_1" name="toc_1"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Contents</h2>
+          <ul class="toc">
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_1">Contents</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_2">Preface</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a
+            href="#toc_3">Introductory</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_4">Breakfast In
+            Liverpool&mdash;April 11.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_5">Public Meeting In
+            Liverpool&mdash;April 13.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_6">Public Meeting In
+            Glasgow&mdash;April 15.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_7">Public Meeting In
+            Edinburgh&mdash;April 20.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_8">Public Meeting In
+            Aberdeen&mdash;April 21.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_9">Public Meeting In
+            Dundee&mdash;April 22.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_10">Address Of The
+            Students Of Glasgow University&mdash;April 25.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_11">Loud Mayor's
+            Dinner At The Mansion House, London&mdash;May 2.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_12">Stafford House
+            Reception&mdash;May 7.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_13">Congregational
+            Union&mdash;May 13.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_14">Royal Highland
+            School Society Dinner, At The Freemason's Tavern, London&mdash;May
+            14.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_15">Antislavery
+            Society, Exeter Hall&mdash;May 16.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_16">Soir&eacute;e At
+            Willis's Rooms&mdash;May 25.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_17">Concluding
+            Note.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_18">Letter I</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_19">Letter II</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_20">Letter
+            III</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_21">Letter IV</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_22">Letter V</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_23">Letter
+            VI.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_24">Letter
+            VII</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_25">Letter
+            VIII</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_26">Letter IX</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_27">Letter X</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_28">Letter XI</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_29">Letter
+            XII</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_30">Letter
+            XIII</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_31">Letter
+            XIV</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_32">Letter XV</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_33">Letter
+            XVI</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_34">Letter
+            XVII</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_35">Letter
+            XVIII</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_36">Notes</a></li>
+          </ul>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="doublepage" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">... "When thou haply seest</p>
+            <p class="l">Some rare note-worthy object in the travels,</p>
+            <p class="l">Make me partaker of thy happiness."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">Shakespeare</span>.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="doublepage" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_2" name="toc_2"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Preface</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">This</span> book will be found to be truly
+          what its name denotes, "Sunny Memories."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">If the criticism be made that every thing is given <em>couleur
+          de rose</em>, the answer is, Why not? They are the impressions, as they arose,
+          of a most agreeable visit. How could they be otherwise?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">If there be characters and scenes that seem drawn with too
+          bright a pencil, the reader will consider that, after all, there are many worse
+          sins than a disposition to think and speak well of one's neighbors. To admire
+          and to love may now and then be tolerated, as a variety, as well as to carp and
+          criticize. America and England have heretofore abounded towards each other in
+          illiberal criticisms. There is not an unfavorable aspect of things in the old
+          world which has not become perfectly familiar to us; and a little of the other
+          side may have a useful influence.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The writer has been decided to issue these letters principally,
+          however, by the persevering and deliberate attempts, in certain quarters, to
+          misrepresent the circumstances which, are here given. So long as these
+          misrepresentations affected only those who were predetermined to believe
+          unfavorably, they were not regarded. But as they have had some influence, in
+          certain cases, upon really excellent and honest people, it is desirable that
+          the truth should be plainly told.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The object of publishing these letters is, therefore, to give to
+          those who are true-hearted and honest the same agreeable picture of life and
+          manners which met the writer's own, eyes. She had in view a wide circle of
+          friends throughout her own country, between whose hearts and her own there has
+          been an acquaintance and sympathy of years, and who, loving excellence, and
+          feeling the reality of it in themselves, are sincerely pleased to have their
+          sphere of hopefulness and charity enlarged. For such this is written; and if
+          those who are not such begin to read, let them treat the book as a letter not
+          addressed to them, which, having opened by mistake, they close and pass to the
+          true owner.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The English reader is requested to bear in mind that the book
+          has not been prepared in reference to an English but an American public, and to
+          make due allowance for that fact. It would have placed the writer far more at
+          ease had there been no prospect of publication in England. As this, however,
+          was unavoidable, in some form, the writer has chosen to issue it there under
+          her own sanction.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is one acknowledgment which the author feels happy to
+          make, and that is, to those publishers in England, Scotland, France, and
+          Germany who have shown a liberality beyond the requirements of legal
+          obligation. The author hopes that the day is not far distant when America will
+          reciprocate the liberality of other nations by granting to foreign authors
+          those rights which her own receive from them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The <em>Journal</em> which appears in the continental tour is
+          from the pen of the Rev. C. Beecher. The <em>Letters</em> were, for the most
+          part, compiled from what was written at the time and on the spot. Some few were
+          entirely written after the author's return.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is an affecting thought that several of the persons who
+          appear in these letters as among the living, have now passed to the great
+          future. The Earl of Warwick, Lord Cockburn, Judge Talfourd, and Dr. Wardlaw are
+          no more among the ways of men. Thus, while we read, while we write, the shadowy
+          procession is passing; the good are being gathered into life, and heaven
+          enriched by the garnered treasures of earth.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right">H.B.S.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="doublepage" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_3" name="toc_3"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Introductory</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">The</span> following letters were written by
+          Mrs. Stowe for her own personal friends, particularly the members of her own
+          family, and mainly as the transactions referred to in them occurred. During the
+          tour in England and Scotland, frequent allusions are made to public meetings
+          held on her account; but no report is made of the meetings, because that
+          information, was given fully in the newspapers sent to her friends with the
+          letters. Some knowledge of the general tone and spirit of the meetings seems
+          necessary, in order to put the readers of the letters in as favorable a
+          position to appreciate them as her friends were when they were received. Such
+          knowledge it is the object of this introductory chapter to furnish.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One or two of the addresses at each of several meetings I have
+          given, and generally without alteration, as they appeared in the public
+          journals at the time. Only a very few could be published without occupying
+          altogether too much space; and those selected are for the most part the
+          shortest, and chosen mainly on account of their brevity. This is certainly a
+          surer method of giving a true idea, of the spirit which actually pervaded the
+          meetings than could be accomplished by any selection of mere extracts from the
+          several speeches. In that case, there might be supposed to exist a temptation
+          to garble and make unfair representations; but in the method pursued, such a
+          suspicion is scarcely possible. In relation to my own addresses, I have
+          sometimes taken the liberty to correct the reporters by my own recollections
+          and notes. I have also, in some cases, somewhat abridged them, (a liberty which
+          I have not, to any considerable extent, ventured to take with others,) though
+          without changing the sentiment, or even essentially the form, of expression.
+          What I have here related is substantially what I actually said, and what I am
+          willing to be held responsible for. Many and bitter, during the tour, were the
+          misrepresentations and misstatements of a hostile press; to which I offer no
+          other reply than the plain facts of the following pages. These were the
+          sentiments uttered, this was the manner of their utterance; and I cheerfully
+          submit them to the judgment of a candid public.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I went to Europe without the least anticipation of the kind of
+          reception which awaited us; it was all a surprise and an embarrassment to me. I
+          went with the strongest love of my country, and the highest veneration for her
+          institutions; I every where in Britain found the most cordial sympathy with
+          this love and veneration; and I returned with both greatly increased. But
+          slavery I do not recognize as an institution of my country; it is an
+          excrescence, a vile usurpation, hated of God, and abhorred by man; I am under
+          no obligation either to love or respect it. He is the traitor to America, and
+          American institutions, who reckons slavery as one of them, and, as such,
+          screens it from assault. Slavery is a blight, a canker, a poison, in the very
+          heart of our republic; and unless the nation, as such, disengage itself from
+          it, it will most assuredly be our ruin. The patriot, the philanthropist, the
+          Christian, truly enlightened, sees no other alternative. The developments of
+          the present session of our national Congress are making this great truth
+          clearly perceptible even to the dullest apprehension.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right">C.E. STOWE.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">Andover</span>, <em>May</em> 30, 1854.</p>
+          <hr class="page" />
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_4" name="toc_4"></a>
+            <h3 class="dgp">Breakfast In Liverpool&mdash;April 11.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Rev. Dr. M'Neile</span>, who had been requested by the respected host to
+            express to Mrs. Stowe the hearty congratulations of the first meeting of
+            friends she had seen in England, thus addressed her: "Mrs. Stowe: I have been
+            requested by those kind friends under whose hospitable roof we are assembled
+            to give some expression to the sincere and cordial welcome with which, we
+            greet your arrival in this country. I find real difficulty in making this
+            attempt, not from want of matter, nor from want of feeling, but because it is
+            not in the power of any language I can command, to give adequate expression
+            to the affectionate enthusiasm which pervades all ranks of our community, and
+            which is truly characteristic of the humanity and the Christianity of Great
+            Britain. We welcome Mrs. Stowe as the honored instrument of that noble
+            impulse which public opinion and public feeling throughout Christendom have
+            received against the demoralizing and degrading system of human slavery. That
+            system is still, unhappily, identified in the minds of many with the supposed
+            material interests of society, and even with the well being of the slaves
+            themselves; but the plausible arguments and ingenious sophistries by which it
+            has been defended shrink with shame from the facts without exaggeration, the
+            principles without compromise, the exposures without indelicacy, and the
+            irrepressible glow of hearty feeling&mdash;O, how true to nature!&mdash;which
+            characterize Mrs. Stowe's immortal book. Yet I feel assured that the effect
+            produced by Uncle Tom's Cabin is not mainly or chiefly to be traced to the
+            interest of the narrative, however captivating, nor to the exposures of the
+            slave system, however withering: these would, indeed, be sufficient to
+            produce a good effect; but this book contains more and better than even
+            these; it contains what will never be lost sight of&mdash;the genuine
+            application to the several branches of the subject of the sacred word of God.
+            By no part of this wonderful work has my own mind been so permanently
+            impressed as by the thorough legitimacy of the application of
+            Scripture,&mdash;no wresting, no mere verbal adaptation, but in every
+            instance the passage cited is made to illustrate something in the narrative,
+            or in the development of character, in strictest accordance with the design
+            of the passage in its original sacred context. We welcome Mrs. Stowe, then,
+            as an honored fellow-laborer in the highest and best of causes; and I am much
+            mistaken if this tone of welcome be not by far the most congenial to her own
+            feelings. We unaffectedly sympathize with much which she must feel, and, as a
+            lady, more peculiarly feel, in passing through that ordeal of gratulation
+            which is sure to attend her steps in every part of our country; and I am
+            persuaded that we cannot manifest our gratitude for her past services in any
+            way more acceptable to herself than by earnest prayer on her behalf that she
+            may be kept in the simplicity of Christ, enjoying in her daily experience the
+            tender consolations of the Divine Spirit, and in the midst of the most
+            flattering commendations saying and feeling, in the instincts of a renewed
+            heart, 'Not unto me, O Lord, not unto me, but unto thy name be the praise,
+            for thy mercy, and for thy truth's sake.'"</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor
+            Stowe</span> then rose, and said, "If we are silent, it is not because we do
+            not feel, but because we feel more than we can express. When that book was
+            written, we had no hope except in God. We had no expectation of reward save
+            in the prayers of the poor. The surprising enthusiasm which has been excited
+            by the book all over Christendom is an indication that God has a work to be
+            done in the cause of emancipation. The present aspect of things in the United
+            States is discouraging. Every change in society, every financial revolution,
+            every political and ecclesiastical movement, seems to pass and leave the
+            African race without help. Our only resource is prayer. God surely cannot
+            will that the unhappy condition of this portion of his children should
+            continue forever. There are some indications of a movement in the southern
+            mind. A leading southern paper lately declared editorially that slavery is
+            either right or wrong: if it is wrong, it is to be abandoned: if it is right,
+            it must be defended. The <em>Southern Press</em>, a paper established to
+            defend the slavery interest at the seat of government, has proposed that the
+            worst features of the system, such as the separation of families, should be
+            abandoned. But it is evident that with that restriction the system could not
+            exist. For instance, a man wants to buy a cook; but she has a husband and
+            seven children. Now, is he to buy a man and seven children, for whom he has
+            no use, for the sake of having a cook? Nothing on the present occasion has
+            been so grateful to our feelings as the reference made by Dr. M'Neile to the
+            Christian character of the book. Incredible as it may seem to those who are
+            without prejudice, it is nevertheless a fact that this book was condemned by
+            some religious newspapers in the United States as anti-Christian, and its
+            author associated with infidels and disorganizers; and had not it been for
+            the decided expression of the mind of English Christians, and of Christendom
+            itself, on this point, there is reason to fear that the proslavery power of
+            the United States would have succeeded in putting the book under foot.
+            Therefore it is peculiarly gratifying that so full an indorsement has been
+            given the work, in this respect, by eminent Christians of the highest
+            character in Europe; for, however some in the United States may affect to
+            despise what is said by the wise and good of this kingdom and the Christian
+            world, they do feel it, and feel it intensely." In answer to an inquiry by
+            Dr. M'Neile as to the mode in which southern Christians defended the
+            institution, Dr. Stowe remarked that "a great change had taken place in that
+            respect during the last thirty years. Formerly all Christians united in
+            condemning the system; but of late some have begun to defend it on scriptural
+            grounds. The Rev. Mr. Smylie, of Mississippi, wrote a pamphlet in the
+            defensive; and Professor Thornwell, of South Carolina, has published the most
+            candid and able statement of that argument which has been given. Their main
+            reliance is on the system of Mosaic servitude, wholly unlike though it was to
+            the American system of slavery. As to what this American system of slavery
+            is, the best documents for enlightening the minds of British Christians are
+            the commercial newspapers of the slaveholding states. There you see slavery
+            as it is, and certainly without any exaggeration. Read the advertisements for
+            the sale of slaves and for the apprehension of fugitives, the descriptions of
+            the persons of slaves, of dogs for hunting slaves, &amp;c., and you see how
+            the whole matter as viewed by the southern mind. Say what they will about it,
+            practically they generally regard the separation of families no more than the
+            separation of cattle, and the slaves as so much property, and nothing else.
+            Their own papers show that the pictures of the internal slave trade given in
+            Uncle Tom, so far from being overdrawn, fall even below the truth. Go on,
+            then, in forming and expressing your views on this subject. In laboring for
+            the overthrow of American slavery you are pursuing a course of Christian duty
+            as legitimate as in laboring to suppress the suttees of India, the
+            cannibalism of the Fejee Islands, and other barbarities of heathenism, of
+            which human slavery is but a relic. These evils can be finally removed by the
+            benign influence of the love of Christ, and no other power is competent to
+            the work."</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_5" name="toc_5"></a>
+            <h3 class="dgp">Public Meeting In Liverpool&mdash;April 13.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Chairman, (A. Hodgson, Esq.,)</span> in opening the proceedings, thus
+            addressed Mrs. Beecher Stowe: "The modesty of our English ladies, which, like
+            your own, shrinks instinctively from unnecessary publicity, has devolved on
+            me, as one of the trustees of the Liverpool Association, the gratifying
+            office of tendering to you, at then request, a slight testimonial of their
+            gratitude and respect. We had hoped almost to the last moment that Mrs.
+            Cropper would have represented, on this day, the ladies with whom she has
+            cooperated, and among whom she has taken a distinguished lead in the great
+            work which you had the honor and the happiness to originate. But she has felt
+            with you that the path most grateful and most congenial to female exertion,
+            even in its widest and most elevated range, is still a retired and a shady
+            path; and you have taught us that the voice which most effectually kindles
+            enthusiasm in millions is the still small voice which comes forth from the
+            sanctuary of a woman's breast, and from the retirement of a woman's
+            closet&mdash;the simple but unequivocal expression of her unfaltering faith,
+            and the evidence of her generous and unshrinking self-devotion. In the same
+            spirit, and as deeply impressed with the retired character of female
+            exertion, the ladies who have so warmly greeted your arrival in this country
+            have still felt it entirely consistent with the most sensitive delicacy to
+            make a public response to your appeal, and to hail with acclamation your
+            thrilling protest against those outrages on our common nature which
+            circumstances have forced on your observation. They engage in no political
+            discussion, they embark in no public controversy; but when an intrepid sister
+            appeals to the instincts of women of every color and of every clime against a
+            system which sanctions the violation of the fondest affections and the
+            disruption of the tenderest ties; which snatches the clinging wife from the
+            agonized husband, and the child from the breast of its fainting mother; which
+            leaves the young and innocent female a helpless and almost inevitable victim
+            of a licentiousness controlled by no law and checked by no public
+            opinion,&mdash;it is surely as feminine as it is Christian to sympathize with
+            her in her perilous task, and to rejoice that she has shed such a vivid light
+            on enormities which can exist only while unknown or unbelieved. We
+            acknowledge with regret and shame that that fatal system was introduced into
+            America by Great Britain; but having in our colonies returned from our
+            devious paths, we may without presumption, in the spirit of friendly
+            suggestion, implore our honored transatlantic friends to do the same. The
+            ladies of Great Britain have been admonished by their fair sisters in
+            America, (and I am sure they are bound to take the admonition in good part,)
+            that there are social evils in our own country demanding our special
+            vigilance and care. This is most true; but it is also true that the deepest
+            sympathies and most strenuous efforts are directed, in the first instance, to
+            the evils which exist among ourselves, and that the rays of benevolence which
+            flash across the Atlantic are often but the indication of the intensity of
+            the bright flame which is shedding light and heat on all in its immediate
+            vicinity. I believe this is the case with most of those who have taken a
+            prominent part in this great movement. I am sure it is preeminently the case
+            with respect to many of those by whom you are surrounded; and I hardly know a
+            more miserable fallacy, by which sensible men allow themselves to be deluded,
+            than that which assumes that every emotion of sympathy which is kindled by
+            objects abroad is abstracted from our sympathies at home. All experience
+            points to a directly opposite conclusion; and surely the divine command, 'to
+            go into all the world, and preach the gospel to every creature,' should put
+            to shame and silence the specious but transparent selfishness which would
+            contract the limits of human sympathy, and veil itself under the garb of
+            superior sagacity. But I must not detain you by any further observations.
+            Allow me, in the name of the associated ladies, to present you with this
+            small memorial of great regard, and to tender to you their and my best wishes
+            for your health and happiness while you are sojourning among us, for the
+            blessing of God on your children during your absence, and for your safe
+            return to your native country when your mission shall be accomplished. I have
+            just been requested to state the following particulars: In December last, a
+            few ladies met in this place to consider the best plan of obtaining
+            signatures in Liverpool to an address to the women of America on the subject
+            of negro slavery, in substance coinciding with the one so nobly proposed and
+            carried forward by Lord Shaftesbury. At this meeting it was suggested that it
+            would be a sincere gratification to many if some testimonial could be
+            presented to Mrs. Stowe which would indicate the sense, almost universally
+            entertained, that she had been the instrument in the hands of God of arousing
+            the slumbering sympathies of this country in behalf of the suffering slave.
+            It was felt desirable to render the expression of such a feeling as general
+            as possible; and to effect this it was resolved that a subscription should be
+            set on foot, consisting of contributions of one penny and upwards, with a
+            view to raise a testimonial, to be presented to Mrs. Stowe by the ladies of
+            Liverpool, as an expression of their grateful appreciation of her valuable
+            services in the cause of the negro, and as a token of admiration for the
+            genius and of high esteem for the philanthropy and Christian feeling which
+            animate her great work, Uncle Tom's Cabin. It ought, perhaps, to be added,
+            that some friends, not residents of Liverpool, have united in this tribute.
+            As many of the ladies connected with the effort to obtain signatures to the
+            address may not be aware of the whole number appended, they may be interested
+            in knowing that they amounted in all to twenty-one thousand nine hundred and
+            fifty-three. Of these, twenty thousand nine hundred and thirty-six were
+            obtained by ladies in Liverpool, from their friends either in this
+            neighborhood or at a distance; and one thousand and seventeen were sent to
+            the committee in London from other parts, by those who preferred our form of
+            address. The total number of signatures from all parts of the kingdom to Lord
+            Shaftesbury's address was upwards of five hundred thousand."</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor
+            Stowe</span> then said, "On behalf of Mrs. Stowe I will read from her pen the
+            response to your generous offering: 'It is impossible for me to express the
+            feelings of my heart at the kind and generous manner in which I have been
+            received upon English shores. Just when I had begun to realize that a whole
+            wide ocean lay between me and all that is dearest to me, I found most
+            unexpectedly a home and friends waiting to receive me here. I have had not an
+            hour in which to know the heart of a stranger. I have been made to feel at
+            home since the first moment of landing, and wherever I have looked I have
+            seen only the faces of friends. It is with deep feeling that I have found
+            myself on ground that has been consecrated and made holy by the prayers and
+            efforts of those who first commenced the struggle for that sacred cause which
+            has proved so successful in England, and which I have a solemn assurance will
+            yet be successful in my own country. It is a touching thought that here so
+            many have given all that they have, and are, in behalf of oppressed humanity.
+            It is touching to remember that one of the noblest men which England has ever
+            produced now lies stricken under the heavy hand of disease, through a last
+            labor of love in this cause. May God grant us all to feel that nothing is too
+            dear or precious to be given in a work for which such men have lived, and
+            labored, and suffered. No great good is ever wrought out for the human race
+            without the suffering of great hearts. They who would serve their fellow-men
+            are ever reminded that the Captain of their salvation was made perfect
+            through suffering. I gratefully accept the offering confided to my care, and
+            trust it may be so employed that the blessing of many "who are ready to
+            perish" will return upon your heads. Let me ask those&mdash;those fathers and
+            mothers in Israel&mdash;who have lived and prayed many years for this cause,
+            that as they prayed for their own country in the hour of her struggle, so
+            they will pray now for ours. Love and prayer can hurt no one, can offend no
+            one, and prayer is a real power. If the hearts of all the real Christians of
+            England are poured out in prayer, it will be felt through the heart of the
+            whole American church. Let us all look upward, from our own feebleness and
+            darkness, to Him of whom it is said, "He shall not fail nor be discouraged
+            till he have set judgment in the earth." To him, the only wise God our
+            Saviour, be glory and majesty, dominion and power, both now and ever.
+            Amen.'&mdash;These are the words, my friends, which Mrs. Stowe has written,
+            and I cannot forbear to add a few words of my own. It was our intention, as
+            the invitation to visit Great Britain came from Glasgow, to make our first
+            landing there. But it was ordered by Providence that we should land here; and
+            surely there is no place in the kingdom where a landing could be more
+            appropriate, and where the reception could have been more cordial. [Hear,
+            hear!] It was wholly unexpected by us, I can assure you. We know that there
+            were friendly hearts here, for we had received abundant testimonials to that
+            effect from letters which had come to us across the Atlantic&mdash;letters
+            wholly unexpected, and which filled our souls with surprise; but we had no
+            thought that there was such a feeling throughout England, and we scarcely
+            know how to conduct ourselves under it, for we are not accustomed to this
+            kind of receptions. In our own country, unhappily, we are very much divided,
+            and the preponderance of feeling expressed is in the other direction,
+            entirely in opposition, and not in favor. [Hear, hear!] We knew that this
+            city had been the scene of some of the greatest, most disinterested, and most
+            powerful efforts in behalf of emancipation. The name of Clarkson was
+            indissolubly associated with this place, for here he came to make his
+            investigations, and here he was in danger of his life, and here he was
+            protected by friends who stood by him through the whole struggle. The names
+            of Cropper, and of Stephen, and of many others in this city, were very
+            familiar to us&mdash;[Hear, hear!]&mdash;and it was in connection with this
+            city that we received what to our feelings was a most effective testimonial,
+            an unexpected letter from Lord Denman, whom we have always venerated. When I
+            was in England in 1836, there were no two persons whom I more desired to see
+            than the Duke of Wellington and Lord Denman; and soon I sought admission to
+            the House of Lords, where I had the pleasure both of seeing and hearing
+            England's great captain; and I found my way to the Court of Queen's Bench,
+            where I had the pleasure of seeing and hearing England's great judge. But how
+            unexpected was all this to us! When that book was written, in sorrow, and in
+            sadness, and obscurity, and with the heart almost broken in the view of the
+            sufferings which it described, and the still greater sufferings which it
+            dared not describe, there was no expectation of any thing but the prayers of
+            the sufferers and the blessing of God, who has said that the seed which is
+            buried in the earth shall spring up in his own good time; and though it may
+            be long buried, it will still at length come forth and bear fruit. We never
+            could believe that slavery in our land would be a perpetual curse; but we
+            felt, and felt deeply, that there must be a terrible struggle before we could
+            be delivered from it, and that there must be suffering and martyrdom in this
+            cause, as in every other great cause; for a struggle of eighteen years had
+            taught us its strength. And, under God, we rely very much on the Christian
+            public of Great Britain; for every expression of feeling from the wise and
+            good of this land, with whatever petulance it may be met by some, goes to the
+            heart of the American people. [Hear, hear!] You must not judge of the
+            American people by the expressions which have come across the Atlantic in
+            reference to the subject. Nine tenths of the American people, I think, are,
+            in opinion at least, with you on this great subject; [Hear, hear!] but there
+            is a tremendous pressure brought to bear upon all who are in favor of
+            emancipation. The whole political power, the whole money power, almost the
+            whole ecclesiastical power is wielded in defence of slavery, protecting it
+            from all aggression; and it is as much as a man's reputation is worth to
+            utter a syllable boldly and openly on the other side. Let me say to the
+            ladies who have been active in getting up the address on the subject of
+            slavery, that you have been doing a great and glorious work, and a work most
+            appropriate for you to do; for in slavery it is woman that suffers most
+            intensely, and the suffering woman has a claim upon the sympathy of her
+            sisters in other lands. This address will produce a powerful impression
+            throughout the country. There are ladies already of the highest character in
+            the nation pondering how they shall make a suitable response, and what they
+            shall do in reference to it that will be acceptable to the ladies of the
+            United Kingdom, or will be profitable to the slave; and in due season you
+            will see that the hearts of American women are alive to this matter, as well
+            as the hearts of the women of this country. [Hear, hear!] Such was the mighty
+            influence brought to bear upon every thing that threatened slavery, that had
+            it not been for the decided expression on this side of the Atlantic in
+            reference to the work which has exerted, under God, so much influence, there
+            is every reason to fear that it would have been crushed and put under foot,
+            as many other efforts for the overthrow of slavery have been in the United
+            States. But it is impossible; the unanimous voice of Christendom prohibits
+            it; and it shows that God has a work to accomplish, and that he has just
+            commenced it. There are social evils in England. Undoubtedly there are; but
+            the difference between the social evils in England and this great evil of
+            slavery in the United States is just here: In England, the power of the
+            government and the power of Christian sympathy are exerted for the removal of
+            those evils. Look at the committees of inquiry in Parliament, look at the
+            amount of information collected with regard to the suffering poor in their
+            reports, and see how ready the government of Great Britain is to enter into
+            those inquiries, and to remove those evils. Look at the benevolent
+            institutions of the United Kingdom, and see how active all these are in
+            administering relief; and then see the condition of slavery in the United
+            States, where the whole power of the government is used in the contrary
+            direction, where every influence is brought to bear to prevent any mitigation
+            of the evil, and where every voice that is lifted to plead for a mitigation
+            is drowned in vituperation and abuse from those who are determined that the
+            evil shall not be mitigated. This is the difference: England repents and
+            reforms. America refuses to repent and reform. It is said, 'Let each country
+            take care of itself, and let the ladies of England attend to their own
+            business.' Now I have always found that those who labor at home are those who
+            labor abroad; [Hear, hear!] and those who say, 'Let us do the work at home,'
+            are those who do no work of good either at home or abroad. [Hear, hear!] It
+            was just so when the great missionary effort came up in the United States.
+            They said, 'We have a great territory here. Let us send missionaries to our
+            own territories. Why should we send missionaries across the ocean?' But those
+            who sent missionaries across the ocean were those who sent missionaries in
+            the United States; and those who did not send missionaries across the ocean
+            were those who sent missionaries nowhere. [Hear, hear!] They who say,
+            'Charity begins at home,' are generally those who have no charity; and when I
+            see a lady whose name is signed to this address, I am sure to find a lady who
+            is exercising her benevolence at home. Let me thank you for all the interest
+            you have manifested and for all the kindness which we have received at your
+            hands, which we shall ever remember, both with gratitude to you and to God
+            our Father."</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The Rev.
+            C.M. Birrell</span> afterwards made a few remarks in proposing a vote of
+            thanks to the ladies who had contributed the testimonial which had been
+            presented to the distinguished writer of Uncle Tom's Cabin. He said it was
+            most delightful to hear of the great good which that remarkable volume had
+            done, and, he humbly believed, by God's special inspiration and guidance, was
+            doing, in the United States of America. It was not confined to the United
+            States of America. The volume was going forth over the whole earth, and great
+            good was resulting, directly and indirectly, by God's providence, from it. He
+            was told a few days ago, by a gentleman fully conversant with the facts, that
+            an edition of Uncle Tom, circulated in Belgium, had created an earnest desire
+            on the part of the people to read the Bible, so frequently quoted in that
+            beautiful work, and that in consequence of it a great run had been made upon
+            the Bible Society's depositories in that kingdom. [Hear, hear!] The priests
+            of the church of Rome, true to their instinct, in endeavoring to maintain the
+            position which they could not otherwise hold, had published another edition,
+            from which, they had entirely excluded all reference to the word of God.
+            [Hear, hear!] He had been also told that at St. Petersburg an edition of
+            Uncle Tom had been translated into the Russian tongue, and that it was being
+            distributed, by command of the emperor, throughout the whole of that vast
+            empire. It was true that the circulation of the work there did not spring
+            from a special desire on the part of the emperor to give liberty to the
+            people of Russia, but because he wished to create a third power in the
+            empire, to act upon the nobles; he wished to cause them to set free their
+            serfs, in order that a third power might be created in the empire to serve as
+            a check upon them. But whatever was the cause, let us thank God, the Author
+            of all gifts, for what is done.</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Sir George
+            Stephen</span> seconded the motion of thanks to the ladies, observing that he
+            had peculiar reasons for doing so. He supposed that he was one of the oldest
+            laborers in this cause. Thirty years ago he found that the work of one lady
+            was equal to that of fifty men; and now we had the work of one lady which was
+            equal to that of all the male sex. [Applause.]</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_6" name="toc_6"></a>
+            <h3 class="dgp">Public Meeting In Glasgow&mdash;April 15.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Rev. Dr. Wardlaw</span> was introduced by the chairman, and spoke as
+            follows:&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"The members of the Glasgow Ladies' New Antislavery
+            Association and the citizens of Glasgow, now assembled, hail with no ordinary
+            satisfaction, and with becoming gratitude to a kindly protecting Providence,
+            the safe arrival amongst them of Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe. They feel
+            obliged by her accepting, with so much promptitude and cordiality, the
+            invitation addressed to her&mdash;an invitation intended to express the favor
+            they bore to her, and the honor in which they held her, as the eminently
+            gifted authoress of Uncle Tom's Cabin&mdash;a work of humble name, but of
+            high excellence and world-wide celebrity; a work the felicity of whose
+            conception is more than equalled by the admirable tact of its execution, and
+            the Christian benevolence of its design, by its exquisite adaptation to its
+            accomplishment; distinguished by the singular variety and consistent
+            discrimination of its characters; by the purity of its religious and moral
+            principles; by its racy humor, and its touching pathos, and its effectively
+            powerful appeals to the judgment, the conscience, and the heart; a work,
+            indeed, of whose sterling worth the earnest test is to be found in the fact
+            of its having so universally touched and stirred the bosom of our common
+            humanity, in all classes of society, that its humble name has become 'a
+            household word,' from the palace to the cottage, and of the extent of its
+            circulation having been unprecedented in the history of the literature of
+            this or of any other age or country. They would, at the same time, include in
+            their hearty welcome the Rev. C.E. Stowe, Professor of Theological Literature
+            in the Andover Theological Seminary, Massachusetts, whose eminent
+            qualifications, as a classical scholar, a man of general literature, and a
+            theologian, have recently placed him in a highly honorable and responsible
+            position, and who, on the subject of slavery, holds the same principles and
+            breathes the same spirit of freedom with his accomplished partner; and, along
+            with them too, another member of the same singularly talented family with
+            herself. They delight to think of the amount of good to the cause of
+            emancipation and universal liberty which her Cabin has already done, and to
+            anticipate the still larger amount it is yet destined to do, now that the Key
+            to the Cabin has triumphantly shown it to be no fiction; and in whatever
+            further efforts she may be honored of Heaven to make in the same noble cause,
+            they desire, unitedly and heartily, to cheer her on, and bid her 'God speed.'
+            I cannot but feel myself highly honored in having been requested to move this
+            resolution. In doing so, I have the happiness of introducing to a Glasgow
+            audience a lady from the transatlantic continent, the extraordinary
+            production of whose pen, referred to in the resolution, had made her name
+            familiar in our country and through Europe, ere she appeared in person among
+            us. My judgment and my heart alike fully respond to every thing said in the
+            resolution respecting that inimitable work. We are accustomed to make a
+            distinction between works of nature and works of art, but in a sense which,
+            all will readily understand, this is preeminently both. As a work of art, it
+            bears upon it, throughout, the stamp of original and varied genius. And yet,
+            throughout, it equally bears the impress of nature&mdash;of human
+            nature&mdash;in its worst and its best, and all its intermediate phases. The
+            man who has read that little volume without laughing and crying
+            alternately&mdash;without the meltings of pity, the thrillings of horror, and
+            the kindlings of indignation&mdash;would supply a far better argument for a
+            distinct race than a negro. [Loud laughter and cheers.] He must have a
+            humanity peculiarly his own. And he who can read it without the breathings of
+            devotion must, if he calls himself a Christian, have a Christianity as unique
+            and questionable as his humanity. [Cheering.] Never did work produce such a
+            sensation. Among us that sensation has happily been all of one kind. It has
+            been the stirring of universal sympathy and unbounded admiration. Not so in
+            the country of its own and of its gifted authoress's birth. There, the
+            ferment has been among the friends as well as the foes of slavery. Among the
+            former all is rage. Among the latter, while there are some&mdash;we trust not
+            a few&mdash;who take the same high and noble position with the talented
+            authoress, there are too many, we fear, who are frightened by this
+            uncompromising boldness, and who are drawn back rather than drawn forward by
+            it&mdash;who 'halt between two opinions,' and are the advocates of medium
+            principles and medium measures. By many among ourselves, the excitement which
+            has been stirred is contemplated with apprehension. They regard it as
+            unfavorable to emancipation, and likely to retard rather than to advance its
+            progress. I must confess myself of a somewhat different mind. That the cause
+            may be obstructed by it for a time, may be true. But it will work well in the
+            long run. Good will ultimately come out of it. Stir is better than stagnancy.
+            Irritation is better than apathy. Whence does it arise? From two sources. The
+            conscience and the honor of the country have both been touched. Conscience
+            winces under the touch. The provocation shows it to be ill at ease. The wound
+            is painful, and it naturally awakens fretfulness and resentment. But by and
+            by the angry excitement will subside, and the salutary conviction will remain
+            and operate. The national honor, too, has been touched. Our friends across
+            the wave boast, and with good reason, of the free principles of their
+            constitution. They glory in their liberty. But they cannot fail to feel the
+            inconsistency of their position, and the exposure of it to the world kindles
+            on the cheek the blush of shame and the reddening fire of displeasure. Now,
+            the blush has aright source. It is the blush of patriotism&mdash;it is for
+            their country. But there is anger with the shame; for few things are more
+            galling than to feel that to be wrong which you are unable to justify, and
+            which, yet, you are not prepared to relinquish. [Loud applause.] On the
+            whole, I cannot but regard the agitation which has been produced as an
+            auspicious, rather than a discouraging omen. It was when the waters of the
+            pool were troubled that their healing virtue was imparted. Let us then hope
+            that the troubling of the waters by this ministering angel of mercy may
+            impregnate them with a similar sanative influence, [the reverend doctor here
+            pointed towards Mrs. Stowe, while the audience burst out with enthusiastic
+            acclamations and waving of handkerchiefs,] and thus ultimately contribute to
+            the healing of the ghastly wounds of the chain and the lash, and to the
+            setting of the crushed and bowed down erect in the soundness and dignity of
+            their true manhood. [Loud cheering.] Sorry we are that Mrs. Stowe should
+            appear amongst us in a state of broken health and physical exhaustion. No one
+            who looks at the Cabin and at the Key, and who knows aught of the effect of
+            severe mental labor on the bodily frame, will marvel at this. We fondly
+            trust, and earnestly pray, that her temporary sojourn among us may, by the
+            divine blessing, recruit her strength, and contribute to the prolongation of
+            a life so promising of benefit to suffering humanity, and to the glory of
+            God. [Cheers.] Meanwhile she enjoys the happy consciousness that she is
+            suffering in a good cause. A better there could not be. It is one which
+            involves the well being, corporeal and mental, physical and spiritual,
+            temporal and eternal, of degraded, plundered, oppressed, darkened,
+            brutalized, perishing millions. And, while we delight in furnishing her for a
+            time with a peaceful retreat from 'the wrath of men,' from the resentment of
+            those who, did they but rightly know their own interests, would have smiled
+            upon her, and blessed her. We trust she enjoys, and ever will enjoy,
+            quietness and assurance of an infinitely higher order&mdash;the divine
+            Master, whom she serves and seeks to honor; proving to her, in the terms of
+            his own promise, 'a refuge from the storm, and a covert from the tempest.'
+            [Enthusiastic cheering.] It may sound strangely, that, when assembled for the
+            very purpose of denouncing 'property in man,' we should be putting in our
+            claims for a share of property in woman. So, however, it is. We claim Mrs.
+            Stowe as ours&mdash;[renewed, cheers]&mdash;not ours only, but still ours.
+            She is British and European property as well as American. She is the property
+            of the whole world of literature and the whole world of humanity. [Cheers.]
+            Should our transatlantic friends repudiate the property, they may transfer
+            their share&mdash;[laughter and cheers]&mdash;most gladly will we accept the
+            transference."</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor
+            Stowe</span>, on rising to reply, was greeted with the most enthusiastic
+            applause. He said that he appeared in the name of Mrs. Stowe, and in his own
+            name, for the purpose of cordially thanking the people of Glasgow for the
+            reception that had been given to them. But he could not find words to do it.
+            Was it true that all this affectionate interest was merited? [Cheers.] He
+            could not imagine any book capable of exciting such expressions of
+            attachment; indeed he was inclined to believe it had not been written at
+            all&mdash;he "'spected it grew." [Tremendous cheers.] Under the oppression of
+            the fugitive slave law the book had sprung from the soil ready made. He
+            regretted exceedingly that in consequence of the state of Mrs. Stowe's
+            health, and in consequence of the great pressure of engagements on himself,
+            their stay in this country would be necessarily short. But he hoped they
+            would accept of the expression of thanks they offered, and their apology for
+            not being in a condition to meet their kindness as they would desire. When
+            they were about to set out from Andover, a friend of theirs expressed his
+            astonishment that they should enter upon such a journey in the delicate state
+            of Mrs. Stowe's health. The Scotch people, he doubted not, would be kind to
+            them&mdash;<em>they would kill them with kindness</em>; and he feared it
+            would be so. It was from Glasgow the idea of the invitation they had received
+            had originated; and well might it originate in that city, for when had been
+            the time that Glasgow was not in earnest on the subject of freedom? They had
+            had hard struggles for liberty, and they had been successful, and the people
+            in the United States were now struggling for the same privilege. But they
+            labored under circumstances greatly different from those in Great Britain.
+            Scotland had ever been distinguished for its love of freedom. [Great
+            applause.] The religious denominations in the United States&mdash;to a great
+            extent, give few and feeble expressions of disapprobation against the system
+            of slavery. Two denominations had never been silent&mdash;the Old Scotch
+            Seceders, or Covenanters, and the disciples of William Penn&mdash;not one of
+            their number, in the United States, owns a slave. Not one can own a slave
+            without being ejected from the society.<a href="#note_1"><span
+            class="footnoteref">1</span></a> In fact, the general feeling was against
+            slavery; but to avoid trouble, the people hesitate to give publicity to their
+            feelings. Were this done, slavery would soon come to an end. Great sacrifices
+            are sometimes made by slaveholders to get rid of slavery. He went once to
+            preach in the State of Ohio. He found there a little log house. Inside was a
+            delicate woman, feeble and with white hands. She seemed wholly unaccustomed
+            to work. Her husband had the same appearance of delicacy. They were very
+            poor. How had they come into that state? They belonged to a slave State,
+            where they had formerly possessed a little family of slaves. They had felt
+            slavery to be wrong. They set them free, and with the remainder of their
+            little property tried to get their living by farming; but like many similar
+            cases, it had been one of martyrdom. The Professor then proceeded to make
+            some very practical remarks on the character of the fugitive slave law, after
+            which he said that the prosperity of Great Britain in a great measure
+            resulted from the products of slave labor. American cotton was the chief
+            support of the system. We must, both in Britain and America, get free-grown
+            cotton, or slavery will not, at least for a long time to come, be abolished.
+            What he would impress on the minds of Christians was unity in this great
+            work. Let slaveholders be ever so much opposed to each other on other topics,
+            they were unanimous in their endeavors to support slavery. But let the
+            prayers of all Christians and the efforts of all Christians be united; and
+            the system of oppression would speedily be destroyed forever.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_7" name="toc_7"></a>
+            <h3 class="dgp">Public Meeting In Edinburgh&mdash;April 20.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Lord Provost</span> rose, and stated that a number of letters of apology had
+            been received from parties who had been invited to take part in the meeting,
+            but who had been unable to attend. Among these he might mention Professor
+            Blackie, the Rev. Mr. Gilfillan, of Dundee, Rev. J. Begg, D.D., the Earl of
+            Buchan, Dr. Candlish, and Sir W. Gibson Craig, all of whom expressed their
+            regret that they could not be present. One of them, he observed, was from a
+            gentleman who had long taken an interest in the antislavery cause,&mdash;Lord
+            Cockburn,<a href="#note_2"><span class="footnoteref">2</span></a>&mdash;and
+            his note was so warm, and sympathetic, and hearty on the subject about which
+            they had met, that he could not resist the temptation of reading it. It
+            proceeded, "I regret, that owing to my being obliged to be in Ayrshire, it
+            will not be in my power to join you in the expression of respect and
+            gratitude to Mrs. Stowe; she deserves all the honor that can be done her; she
+            has done more for humanity than was ever accomplished before by a single book
+            of fiction. [Cheers.] It did not require much to raise our British feeling
+            against slavery, but by showing us what substantially are facts, and the
+            necessary tendency of this evil in its most mitigated form, she has greatly
+            strengthened the ground on which this feeling rests. Her work may have no
+            immediate or present influence on the states of her own country that are now
+            unhappily under the curse, and may indeed for a time aggravate its horrors;
+            but it is a prodigious accession to the constantly accumulating mass of views
+            and evidence, which by reason of its force must finally prevail." [Cheers.]
+            The Lord Provost proceeded to say, that they had now assembled chiefly to do
+            honor to their distinguished guest, Mrs. Stowe. [Applause.] They had met,
+            however, also to express their interest in the cause which it had been the
+            great effort of her life to promote&mdash;the abolition of slavery. They took
+            advantage of her presence, and the effect which was produced on the public
+            mind of this country, to reiterate their love for the abolition cause, and
+            their detestation of slavery. Before they were aware that Mrs. Stowe was to
+            grace the city of Edinburgh with her presence, a committee had been organized
+            to collect a penny offering&mdash;the amount to be contributed in pence, and
+            other small sums, from the masses of this country&mdash;to be presented to
+            her as some means of mitigating, through her instrumentality, the horrors of
+            slavery, as they might come under her observation. It was intended at once as
+            a mark of their esteem for her, of their confidence in her, of their
+            conviction that she would do what was right in the cause, and, at the same
+            time, as an evidence of the detestation in which the system of slavery was
+            held in this free country. That penny offering now, he was happy to say, by
+            the spontaneous efforts of the inhabitants of this and other towns, amounted
+            to a considerable sum; to certain gentlemen in Edinburgh forming the
+            committee the whole credit of this organization was due, and he believed one
+            of their number, the Rev. Mr. Ballantyne, would present the offering that
+            evening, and tell them all about it. He would not, therefore, forestall what
+            he would have to say on the subject. They were also to have the pleasure of
+            presenting Mrs. Stowe with an address from the committee in this city, which
+            would be presented by another reverend friend, who would be introduced at the
+            proper time. As there would be a number of speakers to follow during the
+            evening, his own remarks must be exceedingly short; but he could not resist
+            the temptation of saying how happy he felt at being once more in the midst of
+            a great meeting in the city of Edinburgh, for the purpose of expressing their
+            detestation of the system of slavery. They could appeal to their brethren in
+            the United States with clean hands, because they had got rid of the
+            abomination themselves; they could therefore say to them, through their
+            friends who were now present, on their return home, and through the press,
+            which would carry their sentiments even to the slave states&mdash;they could
+            say to them that they had washed their own hands of the evil at the largest
+            pecuniary sacrifice that was ever made by any nation for the promotion of any
+            good cause. [Loud applause.] Some parties said that they should not speak
+            harshly of the Americans, because they were full of prejudice with regard to
+            the system which they had seen growing up around them. He said so too with
+            all his heart; he joined in the sentiment that they should not speak harshly,
+            but they might fairly express their opinion of the system with which their
+            American friends were surrounded, and in which he thought all who supported
+            it were guilty participators. [Hear, hear!] They could denounce the
+            wickedness, they could tell them that they thought it was their duty to put
+            an end to it speedily. The cause of the abolition of slavery in our own
+            colonies long hung without any visible progress, notwithstanding the efforts
+            of many distinguished men, who did all they could to mitigate some of its
+            more prominent evils; and yet, so long as they never struck at the root, the
+            progress which they made was almost insensible. They knew how many men had
+            spent their energies, and some of them their lives, in attempting to forward
+            the cause; but how little effect was produced for the first half of the
+            present century! The city of Edinburgh had always, he was glad to say, taken
+            a deep interest in the cause; it was one of the very first to take up the
+            ground of total and entire abolition. [Cheers.] A predecessor of his own in
+            the civic chair was so kind as to preside at a meeting held in Edinburgh
+            twenty-three years ago, in which a very decided step was proposed to be taken
+            in advance, and a resolution was moved by the then Dean of Faculty, to the
+            effect that on the following first of January, 1831, all the children born of
+            slave parents in our colonies were from that date to be declared free. That
+            was thought a great and most important movement by the promoters of the
+            cause. There were, however, parties at that crowded meeting who thought that
+            even this was a mere expedient&mdash;that it was a mere pruning of the
+            branches, leaving the whole system intact. One of these was the late Dr.
+            Andrew Thomson&mdash;[cheers]&mdash;who had the courage to propose that the
+            meeting should at once declare for total and immediate abolition, which
+            proposal was seconded by another excellent citizen, Mr. Dickie. Dr. Thomson
+            replied to some of the arguments which had been put forward, to the effect
+            that the total abolition might possibly occasion bloodshed; and he said that,
+            even if that did follow, it was no fault of his, and that he still stuck to
+            the principle, which he considered right under any circumstances. The
+            chairman, thereupon, threatened to leave the chair on account of the
+            unnecessarily strong language used, and when the sentiments were reiterated
+            by Mr. Dickie, he actually bolted, and left the meeting, which was thrown
+            into great confusion. A few days afterwards, however, another meeting was
+            held&mdash;one of the largest and most effective that had been ever held in
+            Edinburgh&mdash;at which were present Mr. John Shank More in the chair, the
+            Rev. Dr. Thomson, Rev. Dr Gordon, Dr. Ritchie, Mr. Muirhead, the Rev. Mr.
+            Buchanan of North Leith, Mr. J. Wigham, Jr., Dr. Greville, &amp;c. The Lord
+            Provost proceeded to read extracts from the speeches made at the meeting,
+            showing that the sentiments of the inhabitants of Edinburgh, so far back as
+            1830, as uttered by some of its most distinguished men,&mdash;not violent
+            agitators, but ministers of the gospel, promoters of peace and order, and
+            every good and every benevolent purpose,&mdash;were in favor of the immediate
+            and total abolition of slavery in our colonies. He referred especially to the
+            speech of Dr. Andrew Thomson on this occasion, from which he read the
+            following extract: "But if the argument is forced upon me to accomplish this
+            great object, that there must be violence, let it come, for it will soon pass
+            away&mdash;let it come and rage its little hour, since it is to be succeeded
+            by lasting freedom, and prosperity, and happiness. Give me the hurricane
+            rather than the pestilence. Give me the hurricane, with its thunders, and its
+            lightnings, and its tempests&mdash;give me the hurricane, with its partial
+            and temporary devastations, awful though they be&mdash;give me the hurricane,
+            which brings along with it purifying, and healthful, and salutary
+            effects&mdash;give me the hurricane rather than the noisome pestilence, whose
+            path is never crossed, whose silence is never disturbed, whose progress is
+            never arrested by one sweeping blast from the heavens&mdash;which walks
+            peacefully and sullenly through the length and breadth of the land, breathing
+            poison into every heart, and carrying havoc into every home&mdash;enervating
+            all that is strong, defacing all that is beautiful, and casting its blight
+            over the fairest and happiest scenes of human life&mdash;and which from day
+            to day, and from year to year, with intolerant and interminable malignity,
+            sends its thousands and tens of thousands of hapless victims into the
+            ever-yawning and never-satisfied grave!"&mdash;[Loud and long applause.] The
+            experience which they had had, that all the dangers, all the bloodshed and
+            violence which were threatened, were merely imaginary, and that none of these
+            evils had come upon them although slavery had been totally abolished by us,
+            should, he thought, be an encouragement to their American friends to go home
+            and tell their countrymen that in this great city the views now put forward
+            were advocated long ago&mdash;that the persons who now held them said the
+            same years ago of the disturbances and the evils which would arise from
+            pressing the question of immediate and total abolition&mdash;that the same
+            kind of arguments and the same predictions of evil were uttered in
+            England&mdash;and although she had not the experience, although she had not
+            the opportunity of pointing to the past, and saying the evil had not come in
+            such a case, still, even then, they were willing to face the evil, to stick
+            to the righteous principle, and to say, come what would, justice must be done
+            to the slave, and slavery must be wholly and immediately abolished. [Cheers.]
+            He had said so much on the question of slavery, because he was very sure it
+            would be much more agreeable to their modest and retiring and distinguished
+            guest that one should speak about any other thing than about herself. Uncle
+            Tom's Cabin needed no recommendation from him. [Loud cheers.] It was the most
+            extraordinary book, he thought, that had ever been published; no book had
+            ever got into the same circulation; none had ever produced a tithe of the
+            impression which it had produced within a given time. It was worth all the
+            proslavery press of America put together. The horrors of slavery were not
+            merely described, but they were actually pictured to the eye. They were seen
+            and understood fully; formerly they were mere dim visions, about which there
+            was great difference of opinion; some saw them as in a mist, and others more
+            clearly; but now every body saw and understood slavery. Every body in this
+            great city, if they had a voice in the matter, would be prepared to say that
+            they wished slavery to be utterly extinguished. [Loud cheers.]</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor
+            Stowe</span> then rose, and was greeted with loud cheers. He begged to read
+            the following note from Mrs. Stowe, in acknowledgment of the
+            honor:&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"I accept these congratulations and honors, and this offering,
+            which it has pleased Scotland to bestow on me, not for any thing which I have
+            said or done, not as in any sense acknowledging that they are or can be
+            deserved, but with heartfelt, humble gratitude to God, as tokens of mercy to
+            a cause most sacred and most oppressed. In the name of a people despised and
+            rejected of men&mdash;in the name of men of sorrows acquainted with grief,
+            from whom the faces of all the great and powerful of the earth have been
+            hid&mdash;in the name of oppressed and suffering humanity, I thank you. The
+            offering given is the dearer to me, and the more hopeful, that it is
+            literally the penny offering, given by thousands on thousands, a penny at a
+            time. When, in travelling through your country, aged men and women have met
+            me with such fervent blessings, little children gathered round me with such
+            loving eyes&mdash;when honest hands, hard with toil, have been stretched
+            forth with such hearty welcome&mdash;when I have seen how really it has come
+            from the depths of the hearts of the common people, and know, as I truly do,
+            what prayers are going up with it from the humblest homes of Scotland, I am
+            encouraged. I believe it is God who inspires this feeling, and I believe God
+            never inspired it in vain. I feel an assurance that the Lord hath looked down
+            from heaven to hear the groaning of the prisoner, and according to the
+            greatness of his power, to loose those that are appointed to die. In the
+            human view, nothing can be more hopeless than this cause; all the wealth, and
+            all the power, and all the worldly influence is against it. But here in
+            Scotland, need we tell the children of the Covenant, that the Lord on high is
+            mightier than all human power? Here, close by the spot where your fathers
+            signed that Covenant, in an hour when Scotland's cause was equally poor and
+            depressed&mdash;here, by the spot where holy martyrs sealed it with their
+            blood, it will neither seem extravagance nor enthusiasm to say to the
+            children of such parents, that for the support of this cause, we look, not to
+            the things that are seen, but to the things that are not seen; to that God,
+            who, in the face of all worldly power, gave liberty to Scotland, in answer to
+            your fathers' prayers. Our trust is in Jesus Christ, and in the power of the
+            Holy Ghost, and in the promise that he shall reign till he hath put all
+            things under his feet. There are those faithless ones, who, standing at the
+            grave of a buried humanity, tell us that it is vain to hope for our brother,
+            because he hath lain in the grave three days already. We turn from them to
+            the face of Him who has said, 'Thy brother shall rise again.' There was a
+            time when our great High Priest, our Brother, yet our Lord, lay in the grave
+            three days; and the governors and powers of the earth made it as sure as they
+            could, seeding the stone and setting a watch. But a third day came, and an
+            earthquake, and an angel. So shall it be to the cause of the oppressed;
+            though now small and despised, we are watchers at the sepulchre, like Mary
+            and the trusting women; we can sit through the hours of darkness. We are
+            watching the sky for the golden streaks of dawning, and we believe that the
+            third day will surely come. For Christ our Lord, being raised from the dead,
+            dieth no more; and he has pledged his word that he shall not fail nor be
+            discouraged till he have set judgment on the earth. He shall deliver the poor
+            when He crieth, the needy, and him that hath no helper. The night is far
+            spent&mdash;the day is at hand. The universal sighing of humanity in all
+            countries, the whole creation groaning and travailing in pain
+            together&mdash;the earnest expectation of the creature waiting for the
+            manifestation of the sons of God&mdash;show that the day is not distant when
+            he will break every yoke, and let the oppressed go free. And whatever we are
+            able to do for this sacred cause, let us cast it where the innumerable
+            multitude of heaven cast their crowns, at the feet of the Lamb, saying,
+            'Worthy is the Lamb that was slain to receive power, and riches, and wisdom,
+            and strength, and honor, and glory, and blessings.'"</p>
+            <p class="dgp">The Rev. Professor then continued. "My Lord Provost, Ladies
+            and Gentlemen: This cause, to be successful, must be carried on in a
+            religious spirit, with a deep sense of our dependence on God, and with that
+            love for our fellow-men which the gospel requires. It is because I think I
+            have met this spirit since I reached the shores of Great Britain, in those
+            who have taken an interest in the cause, that I feel encouraged to hope that
+            the expression of your feeling will be effective on the hearts of Christians
+            on the other side of the Atlantic. There are Christians there as sincere, as
+            hearty, and as earnest, as any on the face of the earth. They have looked at
+            this subject, and been troubled; they have hardly known what to do, and their
+            hearts have been discouraged. They have almost turned away their eyes from
+            it, because they have scarcely dared encounter it, the difficulties appeared
+            to them so great. Wrong cannot always receive the support of Christians;
+            wrong must be done away with; and what must be&mdash;what God requires to
+            be&mdash;that certainly will be. Now, in this age, man is every where
+            beginning to regard the sufferings of his fellow-man as his own. There is an
+            interest felt in man, as man, which was not felt in preceding ages. The
+            facilities of communication are bringing all nations in contact, and whatever
+            wrong exists in any part of the world, is every where felt. There are wrongs
+            and sufferings every where; but those to which we are accustomed, we look
+            upon with most indifference, because being accustomed to them, we do not feel
+            their enormity. You feel the enormity of slavery more than we do, because you
+            are not immediately interested, and regard it at a distance. We regard some
+            of the wrongs that exist in the old world with more sensibility than you can
+            regard them, because we are not accustomed to them, and you are. Therefore,
+            in the spirit of Christian love, it belongs to Christian men to speak to each
+            other with great fidelity. It has been said that you know little or nothing
+            about slavery. O, happy men, that you are ignorant of its enormities. [Hear,
+            hear!] But you do know something about it. You know as much about it as you
+            know of the widow-burning in India, or the cannibalism in the Fejee Islands,
+            or any of those crimes and sorrows of paganism, that induced you to send
+            forth your missionaries. You know it is a great wrong, and a terrible
+            obstacle to the progress of the gospel; and that is enough for you to know to
+            induce you to act. You have as much knowledge as ever induced a Christian
+            community in any part of the world to exert an influence in any other part of
+            the world. Slavery is a relic of paganism, of barbarism; it must be removed
+            by Christianity; and if the light of Christianity shines on it clearly, it
+            certainly will remove it. There are thousands of hearts in the United States
+            that rejoice in your help. Whatever expressions of impatience and petulance
+            you may hear, be assured that these expressions are not the heart of the
+            great body of the people. [Cheers.] A large proportion of that country is
+            free from slavery. There is an area of freedom ten times larger than Great
+            Britain in territory.<a href="#note_3"><span class="footnoteref">3</span></a>
+            [Cheers.] But all the power over the slave is in the hands of the
+            slaveholder. You had a power over the slaveholder by your national
+            legislature; our national legislature has no power over the slaveholder. All
+            the legislation that can in that country be brought to bear for the slave, is
+            legislation by the slaveholders themselves. There is where the difficulty
+            lies. It is altogether by persuasion, Christian counsel, Christian sympathy,
+            Christian earnestness, that any good can be effected for the slave. The
+            conscience of the people is against the system&mdash;the conscience of the
+            people, even in the slaveholding states; and if we can but get at the
+            conscience without exciting prejudice, it will tend greatly towards the
+            desired effect. But this appeal to the conscience must be unintermittent,
+            constant. Your hands must not be weary, your prayers must not be
+            discontinued; but every day and every hour should we be doing something
+            towards the object. It is sometimes said, Americans who resist slavery are
+            traitors to their country. No; those who would support freedom are the only
+            true friends of their country. Our fathers never intended slavery to be
+            identified with the government of the United States; but in the temptations
+            of commerce the evil was overlooked; and how changed for the worse has become
+            the public sentiment even within the last thirty or forty years! The enormous
+            increase in the consumption of cotton has raised enormously the market value
+            of slaves, and arrayed both avarice and political ambition in defence of
+            slavery. Instruct the conscience, and produce free cotton, and this will be
+            like Cromwell's exhortation to his soldiers, '<em>Trust in God, and keep your
+            powder dry</em>.'" [Continued cheers.]</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The Rev.
+            Dr. R. Lee</span> then said: "I am quite sure that every individual here
+            responds cordially to those sentiments of respect and gratitude towards our
+            honored guest which have been so well expressed by the Lord Provost and the
+            other gentlemen who have addressed us. We think that this lady has not only
+            laid us under a great obligation by giving us one of the most delightful
+            books in the English language, but that she has improved us as men and as
+            Christians, that she has taught us the value of our privileges, and made us
+            more sensible than we were before of the obligation which lies upon us to
+            promote every good work. I have been requested to say a few words on the
+            degradation of American slavery; but I feel, in the presence of the gentleman
+            who last addressed you, and of those who are still to address you, that it
+            would be almost presumption in me to enter on such a subject. It is
+            impossible to speak or to think of the subject of slavery without feeling
+            that there is a double degradation in the matter; for, in the first place,
+            the slave is a man made in the image of God&mdash;God's image cut in ebony,
+            as old Thomas Fuller quaintly but beautifully said; and what right have we to
+            reduce him to the image of a brute, and make property of him? We esteem
+            drunkenness as a sin. Why is it a sin? Because it reduces that which was made
+            in the image of God to the image of a brute. We say to the drunkard, 'You are
+            guilty of a sacrilege, because you reduce that which God made in his own
+            image "into the image of an irrational creature."' Slavery does the very
+            same. But there is not only a degradation committed as regards the
+            slave&mdash;there is a degradation also committed against himself by him who
+            makes him a slave, and who retains him in the position of a slave; for is it
+            not one of the most commonplace of truths that we cannot do a wrong to a
+            neighbor without doing a greater wrong to ourselves?&mdash;that we cannot
+            injure him without also injuring ourselves yet more? I observe there is a
+            certain class of writers in America who are fond of representing the feeling
+            of this country towards America as one of jealousy, if not of hatred.. I
+            think, my lord, that no American ever travelled in this country without being
+            conscious at once that this is a total mistake&mdash;that this is a total
+            misapprehension. I venture to say that there is no nation on the face of the
+            earth in which we feel half so much interest, or towards which we feel the
+            tenth part of the affection, which we do towards our brethren in the United
+            States of America. And what is more than that&mdash;there is no nation
+            towards which we feel one half so much admiration, and for which we feel half
+            so much respect, as we do for the people of the United States of America.
+            [Cheers.] Why, sir, how can it be otherwise? How is it possible that it
+            should be the reverse? Are they not our bone and our flesh? and their
+            character, whatever it is, is it any thing more than our own, a little
+            exaggerated, perhaps? Their virtues and their vices, their faults and their
+            excellences, are just the virtues and the vices, the faults and the
+            excellences, of that old respectable freeholder, John Bull, from whom they
+            are descended. We are not much surprised that a nation which are slaves
+            themselves should make other men slaves. This cannot very much surprise us:
+            but we are both surprised and we are deeply grieved, that a nation which has
+            conceived so well the idea of freedom&mdash;a nation which has preached the
+            doctrines of freedom with such boldness and such fulness&mdash;a nation which
+            has so boldly and perfectly realized its idea of freedom in every other
+            respect&mdash;should in this only instance have sunk so completely below its
+            own idea, and forgetting the rights of one class of their fellow-creatures,
+            should have deprived them of freedom altogether. I say that our grief and our
+            disapprobation of this in the case of our brethren in America arises very
+            much from this, that in other respects we admire them so much, we are sorry
+            that so noble a nation should allow a blot like this to remain upon its
+            escutcheon. I am not ignorant&mdash;nobody can be ignorant&mdash;of the great
+            difficulties which encompass the solution of this question in America. It is
+            vain for us to shut our eyes to it. There can be no doubt whatever that great
+            sacrifices will require to be made in order to get rid of this great evil.
+            But the Americans are a most ingenious people; they are full of inventions of
+            all sorts, from the invention of a machine for protecting our feet from the
+            water, to a machine for making ships go by means of heated air; from the one
+            to the other the whole field of discovery is occupied by their inventive
+            genius. There is not an article in common use among us but bears some stamp
+            of America. We rise in the morning, and before we are dressed we have had
+            half a dozen American articles in our hands. And during the day, as we pass
+            through the streets, articles of American invention meet us every where. In
+            short, the ingenuity of the people is proclaimed all over the world. And
+            there can be no doubt that the moment this great, this ingenious people finds
+            that slavery is both an evil and a sin, their ingenuity will be successfully
+            exerted in discovering some invention for preventing its abolition from
+            ruining them altogether. [Cheers.] No doubt their ingenuity will be equal to
+            the occasion; and I may take the liberty of adding, that their ingenuity in
+            that case will find even a richer reward than it has done in those other
+            inventions which have done them so much honor, and been productive of so much
+            profit. I say, that sacrifices must be made; there can be no doubt about
+            that; but I would also observe, that the longer the evil is permitted to
+            continue, the greater and more tremendous will become the sacrifice which
+            will be needed to put an end to it; for all history proves that a nation
+            encumbered, with slavery is surrounded with danger. [Applause.] Has the
+            history of antiquity been written in vain? Does it not teach us that not only
+            domestic and social pollutions are the inevitable results, but does it not
+            teach us also that political insecurity and political revolutions as
+            certainly slumber beneath the institution of slavery as fireworks at the
+            basis of Mount &AElig;tna? [Cheers.] It cannot but be so. Men no more than
+            steam can be compressed without a tremendous revulsion; and let our brethren
+            in America be sure of this, that the longer the day of reckoning is put off
+            by them, the more tremendous at last that reckoning will Be." [Loud,
+            applause.]</p>
+            <br />
+
+            <p class="noindent">In regard to this meeting at Edinburgh, there was a
+            ridiculous story circulated and variously commented on in certain newspapers
+            of the United States, that <em>the American flag was there exhibited,
+            insulted, torn, and mutilated</em>. Certain religious papers took the lead in
+            propagating the slander, which, so for as I know or can learn, <em>had no
+            foundation</em>, unless it be that, in the arranging of the flag around its
+            staff, the stars might have been more distinctly visible than the stripes.
+            The walls were profusely adorned with drapery, and there were numerous flags
+            disposed in festoons. Truly a wonderful thing to make a story of, and then
+            parade it in the newspapers from Maine to Texas, beginning in
+            Philadelphia!</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_8" name="toc_8"></a>
+            <h3 class="dgp">Public Meeting In Aberdeen&mdash;April 21.</h3>
+            <h3 class="sub">Address Of The Citizens.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mrs H.
+            Beecher Stowe</span>.</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Madam</span>: The citizens of Aberdeen have
+            much pleasure in embracing the opportunity now afforded them of expressing at
+            once their esteem for yourself personally, and their interest in the cause of
+            which you have been the distinguished advocate.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">While they would, not render a blind homage to mere genius,
+            however exalted, they consider genius such as yours, directed by Christian
+            principle, as that which, for the welfare of humanity, cannot be too highly
+            or too fervently honored.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Without depreciating the labors of the various advocates of
+            slave emancipation who have appeared from time to time on both sides of the
+            Atlantic, they may conscientiously award to you the praise of having brought
+            about the present universal and enthusiastic sentiment in regard to the
+            slavery which exists in America.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">The galvanic battery may be arranged and charged, every plate,
+            wire, and fluid being in its appropriate place; but, until some hand shall
+            bring together the extremities of the conducting medium, in vain might we
+            expect to elicit the latent fire.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Every heart may throb with the feeling of benevolence, and
+            every mind respond to the sentiment that man, in regard to man, should be
+            free and equal; but it is the province of genius such as yours to give unity
+            to the universal, and find utterance for the felt.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">When society has been prepared for some momentous movement or
+            moral reformation, so that the hidden thoughts of the people want only an
+            interpreter, the thinking community an organ, and suffering humanity a
+            champion, distinguished is the honor belonging to the individual in whom all
+            these requisites are found combined.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">To you has been assigned by Providence the important task of
+            educing the latent emotions of humanity, and waking the music that slumbered
+            in the chords of the universal human heart, till it has pealed forth in one
+            deep far rolling and harmonious anthem, of which the heavenly burden is,
+            "Liberty to the captive, and the opening of the prison to them that are
+            bound!"</p>
+            <p class="dgp">The production of your accomplished pen, which has already
+            called forth such unqualified eulogy from almost every land where Anglo-Saxon
+            literature finds access, and created so sudden and fervent an excitement on
+            the momentous subject of American slavery, has nowhere been hailed with a
+            more cordial welcome, or produced more salutary effects, than in the city of
+            Aberdeen.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Though long ago imbued, with antislavery principles and
+            interested in the progress of liberty in every part of the world, our
+            community, like many others, required such information, suggestions, and
+            appeals as your valuable work contains in one great department of slavery, in
+            order that their interest might be turned into a specific direction, and
+            their principles reduced, to combined practical effort.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Already they have esteemed it a privilege to engage with some
+            activity in the promotion of the interests of the fugitive slave; and they
+            shall henceforth regard with a deeper interest than ever the movements of
+            their American brethren in this matter, until there exists among them no
+            slavery from which to flee.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">While they participate in your abhorrence of slavery in the
+            American states, they trust they need scarcely assure you that they
+            participate also in your love for the American people.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">It is in proportion as they love that nation, attached to them
+            by so many ties, that they lament the existence of a system which, so long as
+            it exists, must bring odium upon the national character, as it cannot fail to
+            enfeeble and impair their best social institutions.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">They believe it to be a maxim that man cannot hold his
+            fellow-man in slavery without being himself to some extent enslaved. And of
+            this the censorship of the press, together with the expurgatorial indices of
+            various religious societies in the Southern States of America, furnish ample
+            corroboration.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">It is hoped that your own nation may speedily be directed to
+            recognize you as its best friend, for having stood forth in the spirit of
+            true patriotism to advocate the claims of a large portion of your countrymen,
+            and to seek the removal of an evil which has done much to neutralize the
+            moral influence of your country's best (and otherwise free) institutions.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Accept, then, from the community of Aberdeen their
+            congratulations on the high literary fame which you have by a single effort
+            so deservedly acquired, and their grateful acknowledgments for your advocacy
+            of a cause in which the best interests of humanity are involved.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Signed in name and by appointment of a public meeting of the
+            citizens of Aberdeen within the County Buildings, this 21st April, 1853,
+            A.D.</p>
+            <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Geo. Hessay</span>,</p>
+            <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><em>Provost of Aberdeen</em>.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_9" name="toc_9"></a>
+            <h3 class="dgp">Public Meeting In Dundee&mdash;April 22.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mr.
+            Gilfillan</span>, who was received with great applause, said he had been
+            intrusted by the Committee of the Ladies' Antislavery Association to present
+            the following address to Mrs. Stowe, which he would read to the
+            meeting:&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"<span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Madam</span>: We, the ladies of the Dundee
+            Antislavery Association, desire to add our feeble voices to the acclamations
+            of a world, conscious that your fame and character need no testimony from us.
+            We are less anxious to honor you than to prove that our appreciation and
+            respect are no less sincere and no less profound than those of the millions
+            in other places and other lands, whom you have instructed, improved,
+            delighted, and thrilled. We beg permission to lay before you the expressions
+            of a gratitude and an enthusiasm in some measure commensurate with your
+            transcendent literary merit and moral worth. We congratulate you on the
+            success of the <em>chef-d'oeuvre</em> of your genius, a success altogether
+            unparalleled, and in all probability never to be paralleled in the history of
+            literature. We congratulate you still more warmly on that nobility and
+            benevolence of nature which made you from childhood the friend of the unhappy
+            slave, and led you to accumulate unconsciously the materials for the immortal
+            tale of Uncle Tom's Cabin. We congratulate you in having in that tale
+            supported with matchless eloquence and pathos the cause of the crushed, the
+            forgotten, the injured, of those who had no help of man at all, and who had
+            even been blasphemously taught by professed ministers of the gospel of mercy
+            that Heaven too was opposed to their liberation, and had blotted them out
+            from the catalogue of man. We recognize, too, with delight, the spirit of
+            enlightened and evangelical piety which breathes through your work, and
+            serves to confute the calumny that none but infidels are interested in the
+            cause of abolition&mdash;a calumny which cuts at Christianity with a yet
+            sharper edge than at abolition, but which you have proved to be a foul and
+            malignant falsehood. We congratulate you not only on the richness of the
+            laurels which you have won, but on the dignity, the meekness, and the
+            magnanimity with which these laurels have been worn. We hail in you our most
+            gifted sister in the great cause of liberty&mdash;we bid you warmly welcome
+            to our city, and we pray Almighty God, the God of the oppressed, to pour his
+            selectest blessings on your head, and to spare your invaluable life, till
+            yours, and ours, and others' efforts for the cause of abolition are crowned
+            with success, and till the shouts of a universal jubilee shall proclaim that
+            in all quarters of the globe the African is free."</p>
+            <p class="dgp">The address was handed to Mrs. Stowe amid great applause. MR.
+            GILFILLAN continued: "In addition to the address which I have now read, I
+            have been requested to add a few remarks; and in making these I cannot but
+            congratulate Dundee on the fact that Mrs. Stowe has visited it, and that she
+            has had a reception worthy of her distinguished merits. [Applause.] It is not
+            Dundee alone that is present here to-night: it is Forfarshire, Fifeshire, and
+            I may also add, Perthshire:&mdash;that are here to do honor to themselves in
+            doing honor to our illustrious guest. [Cheers.] There are assembled here
+            representatives of the general feeling that boils in the whole land&mdash;not
+            from our streets alone, but from our country valleys&mdash;from our glens and
+            our mountains O! I wish that Mrs. Stowe would but spare time to go herself
+            and study that enthusiasm amid its own mountain recesses, amid the uplands
+            and the friths, and the wild solitudes of our own unconquered and
+            unconquerable land. She would see scenery there worthy of that pencil which
+            has painted so powerfully the glories of the Mississippi; ay, and she would
+            find her name known and reverenced in every hamlet, and see copies of Uncle
+            Tom's Cabin in the shepherd's shieling, beside Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress,
+            the Life of Sir William Wallace, Rob Roy, and the Gaelic Bible. I saw copies
+            of it carried by travellers last autumn among the gloomy grandeurs of
+            Glencoe, and, as Coleridge once said when he saw Thomson's Seasons lying in a
+            Welsh wayside inn, 'That is true fame,' I thought this was fame truer still.
+            [Applause.] It is too late in the day to criticize Uncle Tom's Cabin, or to
+            speculate on its unprecedented history&mdash;a history which seems absolutely
+            magical. Why, you are reminded of Aladdin's lamp, and of the palace that was
+            reared by genii in one night. Mrs. Stowe's genius has done a greater wonder
+            than this&mdash;it has reared in a marvellously short time a structure which,
+            unlike that Arabian fabric, is a reality, and shall last forever. [Applause.]
+            She must not be allowed, to depreciate herself, and to call her glorious book
+            a mere 'bubble.' Such a bubble there never was before. I wish we had ten
+            thousand such bubbles. [Applause.] If it had been a bubble it would have
+            broken long ago. 'Man,' says Jeremy Taylor, 'is a bubble.' Yea, but he is an
+            immortal one. And such an immortal bubble is Uncle Tom's Cabin; it can only
+            with man expire; and yet a year ago not ten individuals in this vast assembly
+            had ever heard of its author's name. [Applause.] At its artistic merits we
+            may well marvel&mdash;to find in a small volume the descriptive power of a
+            Scott, the humor of a Dickens, the keen, observing glance of a Thackeray, the
+            pathos of a Richardson or Mackenzie, combined with qualities of earnestness,
+            simplicity, humanity, and womanhood peculiar to the author herself. But there
+            are three things which, strike me as peculiarly remarkable about Uncle Tom's
+            Cabin: it is the work of an American&mdash;of a woman&mdash;and of an
+            evangelical Christian. [Cheers.] We have long been accustomed to despise
+            American literature&mdash;I mean as compared with our own. I have heard
+            eminent <em>litterateurs</em> say, 'Pshaw! the Americans have no national
+            literature.' It was thought that they lived entirely on plunder&mdash;the
+            plunder of poor slaves, and of poor British authors. [Loud cheers.] Their own
+            works, when, they came among us, were treated either with contempt or with
+            patronizing wonder&mdash;yes, the 'Sketch Book' was a very good book to be an
+            American's. To parody two lines of Pope, we</p>
+            <div class="lg">
+              <p class="l">Admired such wisdom in a Yankee shape,</p>
+              <p class="l">And showed an Irving as they show an ape.'</p>
+            </div>
+            <p class="dgp">[Loud cheers.] And yet, strange to tell, not only of late have
+            we been almost deluged with editions of new and excellent American writers,
+            but the most popular book of the century has appeared on the west side of the
+            Atlantic. Let us hear no more of the poverty of American brains, or the
+            barrenness of American literature. Had it produced only Uncle Tom's Cabin, it
+            had evaded contempt just as certainly as Don Quixote, had there been no other
+            product of the Spanish mind, would have rendered it forever illustrious. It
+            is the work of a woman, too! None but a woman could have written it. There
+            are in the human mind springs at once delicate and deep, which only the
+            female genius can understand, or the female finger touch. Who but a female
+            could have created the gentle Eva, painted the capricious and selfish Marie
+            St. Clair, or turned loose a Topsy upon the wondering world? [Loud and
+            continued cheering.] And it is to my mind exceedingly delightful, and it must
+            be humiliating to our opponents, to remember that the severest stroke to
+            American slavery has been given by a woman's hand. [Loud cheers.] It was the
+            smooth stone from the brook which, sent from the hand of a youthful David,
+            overthrew Goliath of Gath; but I am less reminded of this than of another
+            incident in Scripture history. When the robber and oppressor of Israel,
+            Abimelech, who had slain his brethren, was rushing against a tower, whither
+            his enemies had fled, we are told that 'a certain woman cast a piece of a
+            millstone upon Abimelech's head, and all to break his skull,' and that he
+            cried hastily to the young man, his armor-bearer, and said unto him, 'Draw
+            thy sword, and slay me, that men say not of me, A woman slew him.' It is a
+            parable of our present position. Mrs. Stowe has thrown a piece of millstone,
+            sharp and strong, at the skull of the giant abomination of her country; he is
+            reeling in his death pangs, and, in the fury of his despair and shame, is
+            crying, but crying in vain, 'Say not, A woman slew me!' [Applause.] But the
+            world shall say, 'A woman slew him,' or, at least, 'gave him the first blow,
+            and drove him to despair and suicide.' [Cheers.] Lastly, it is the work of an
+            evangelical Christian; and the piety of the book has greatly contributed to
+            its power. It has forever wiped away the vile calumny, that all who love
+            their African brother hate their God and Savior. I look, indeed, on Mrs.
+            Stowe's volume, not only as a noble contribution to the cause of
+            emancipation, but to the general cause of Christianity. It is an olive leaf
+            in a dove's mouth, testifying that the waters of scepticism, which have
+            rolled more fearfully far in America than here,&mdash;and no wonder, if the
+            Christianity of America in general is a slaveholding, man-stealing,
+            soul-murdering Christianity&mdash;that they are abating, and that genuine
+            liberty and evangelical religion are soon to clasp hands, and to smile in
+            unison on the ransomed, regenerated, and truly 'United States.' [Loud and
+            reiterated applause.]"</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_10" name="toc_10"></a>
+            <h3 class="dgp">Address Of The Students Of Glasgow University&mdash;April
+            25.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent">This address is particularly gratifying on account of its
+            recognition of the use of intoxicating drinks as an evil analogous to
+            slaveholding, and to be eradicated by similar means. The two reforms are in
+            all respects similar movements, to be promoted in the same manner and with
+            the same spirit.</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mrs.
+            Harriet Beecher Stowe</span>.</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Madam</span>: The Committee of the Glasgow
+            University Abstainers' Society, representing nearly one hundred students,
+            embrace the opportunity which you have so kindly afforded them, of expressing
+            their high esteem for you, and their appreciation of your noble efforts in
+            behalf of the oppressed. They cordially join in the welcome with which you
+            have been so justly received on these shores, and earnestly hope and pray
+            that your visit may be beneficial to your own health, and tend greatly to the
+            furtherance of Christian philanthropy.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">The committee have had their previous convictions confirmed,
+            and their hearts deeply affected, by your vivid and faithful delineations of
+            slavery; and they desire to join with thousands on both sides of the
+            Atlantic, who offer fervent thanksgiving to God for having endowed you with
+            those rare gifts, which have qualified you for producing the noblest
+            testimony against slavery, next to the Bible, which the world has ever
+            received.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">While giving all the praise to God, from whom cometh every
+            good and perfect gift, they may be excused for mentioning three
+            characteristics of your writings regarding slavery, which awakened their
+            admiration&mdash;a sensibility befitting the anguish of suffering millions;
+            the graphic power which presents to view the complex and hideous system,
+            stripped of all its deceitful disguises; and the moral courage that was
+            required to encounter the monster, and drag it forth to the gaze and the
+            execration of mankind.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">The committee feel humbled in being called to confess and
+            deplore, as existing among ourselves, another species of slavery, not less
+            ruinous in its tendency, and not less criminal in the sight of God&mdash;we
+            mean the slavery by strong drink. We feel too much ashamed of the sad
+            pre&euml;minence which these nations have acquired in regard to this vice to
+            take any offence at the reproaches cast upon us from across the Atlantic.
+            Such smiting shall not break our head. We are anxious to profit by it. Yet
+            when it is used as an argument to justify slavery, or to silence our
+            respectful but earnest remonstrances, we take exception to the parallelism on
+            which these arguments are made to rest. We do not justify our slavery. We do
+            not try to defend it from the Scriptures. We do not make laws to uphold it.
+            The unhappy victims of our slavery have all forged and riveted their own
+            fetters. We implore them to forbear; but, alas! in many cases without
+            success. We invite them to be free, and offer our best assistance to undo
+            their bonds. When a fugitive slave knocks at our door, escaping from a cruel
+            master, we try to accost him in the spirit or in the words of a well-known
+            philanthropist, "Come in, brother, and get warm, and get thy breakfast." And
+            when distinguished American philanthropists, who have done so much to undo
+            the heavy burdens in their own land, come over to assist us, we hail their
+            advent with rejoicing, and welcome them as benefactors. We are well aware
+            that a corresponding feeling would be manifested in the United States by a
+            portion, doubtless a large portion, of the population; but certainly not by
+            those who justify or palliate their own oppression by a reference to our
+            lamentable intemperance.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">We rejoice, madam, to know that as abstainers we can claim an
+            important place, pot only in your sympathies, but in your literary labors. We
+            offer our hearty thanks for the valuable contributions you have already
+            furnished in that momentous cause, and for the efforts of that distinguished
+            family with which you are connected.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">We bear our testimony to the mighty impulse imparted to the
+            public mind by the extensive circulation of those memorable sermons which
+            your honored father gave to Europe, as well as to America, more than
+            twenty-five years ago. It will be pleasing to him to know that the force of
+            his arguments is felt in British universities to the present time, and that
+            not only students in augmenting numbers, but learned professors, acknowledge
+            their cogency and yield to their power.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Permit us to add that a movement has already begun, in an
+            influential quarter in England, for the avowed purpose of combining the
+            patriotism and Christianity of these nations in a strenuous agitation for the
+            suppression, by the legislature, of the traffic in alcoholic drinks.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">In conclusion, the committee have only further to express
+            their cordial thanks for your kindness in receiving their address, and their
+            desire and prayer that you may be long spared to glorify God, by promoting
+            the highest interests of man; that if it so please him, you may live to see
+            the glorious fruit of your labors here cm earth, and that hereafter you may
+            meet the blessed salutation, "Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the
+            least of these my brethren, ye have done it unto me."</p>
+            <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Norman S. Kerr</span>,
+            <em>Secretary</em>.</p>
+            <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Stewart Bates</span>,
+            <em>President</em>.</p>
+            <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Glasgow</span>, 25th April, 1853.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_11" name="toc_11"></a>
+            <h3 class="dgp">Loud Mayor's Dinner At The Mansion House, London&mdash;May
+            2.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mr.
+            Justice Talfourd</span>,<a href="#note_4"><span
+            class="footnoteref">4</span></a> having spoken of the literature of England
+            and America, alluded to two distinguished authors then present. The one was a
+            lady, who had shed a lustre on the literature of America, and whose works
+            were deeply engraven on every English heart. He spoke particularly of the
+            consecration of so much genius to so noble a cause&mdash;the cause of
+            humanity; and expressed the confident hope that the great American people
+            would see and remedy the wrongs so vividly depicted. The learned judge,
+            having paid an eloquent tribute to the works of Mr. Charles Dickens,
+            concluded by proposing "Mr. Charles Dickens and the literature of the
+            Anglo-Saxons."</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mr. Charles
+            Dickens</span> returned thanks. In referring to Mrs. H.B. Stowe, he observed
+            that, in returning thanks, he could not forget he was in the presence of a
+            stranger who was the authoress of a noble book, with a noble purpose. But he
+            had no right to call her a stranger, for she would find a welcome in every
+            English home.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_12" name="toc_12"></a>
+            <h3 class="dgp">Stafford House Reception&mdash;May 7.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Duke Of Sutherland</span> having introduced Mrs. Stowe to the assembly, the
+            following short address was read and presented to her by the <span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Earl Of Shaftesbury</span>:&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"<span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Madam</span>: I am deputed by the Duchess
+            of Sutherland, and the ladies of the two committees appointed to conduct 'The
+            Address from the Women of England, to the Women of America on the Subject of
+            Slavery,' to express the high gratification they feel in your presence
+            amongst them this day.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"The address, which has received considerably more than half a
+            million of the signatures of the women of Great Britain and Ireland, they
+            have already transmitted to the United States, consigning it to the care of
+            those whom you have nominated as fit and zealous persons to undertake the
+            charge in your absence.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"The earnest desire of these committees, and, indeed, we may
+            say of the whole kingdom, is to cultivate the most friendly and affectionate
+            relations between the two countries; and we cannot but believe that we are
+            fostering such a feeling when we avow our deep admiration of an American lady
+            who, blessed by the possession of vast genius and intellectual powers, enjoys
+            the still higher blessing, that she devotes them to the glory of God and the
+            temporal and eternal interests of the human race."</p>
+            <br />
+
+            <p class="noindent">The following is a copy of the address to which Lord
+            Shaftesbury makes reference:&mdash;</p>
+            <div class="display">
+              <p class="noindent">"<em>The affectionate and Christian Address of many
+              thousands of Women of Great Britain and Ireland to their Sisters, the Women
+              of the United States of America</em>.</p>
+              <p class="dgp">"A common origin, a common faith, and, we sincerely believe,
+              a common cause, urge us at the present moment to address you on the subject
+              of that system of negro slavery which still prevails so extensively, and
+              even under kindly-disposed masters, with such frightful results, in many of
+              the vast regions of the western world.</p>
+              <p class="dgp">"We will not dwell on the ordinary topics&mdash;on the
+              progress of civilization; on the advance of freedom every where; on the
+              rights and requirements of the nineteenth century; but we appeal to you
+              very seriously to reflect, and to ask counsel of God, how far such a state
+              of things is in accordance with his holy word, the inalienable rights of
+              immortal souls, and the pure and merciful spirit of the Christian
+              religion.</p>
+              <p class="dgp">"We do not shut our eyes to the difficulties, nay, the
+              dangers, that might beset the immediate abolition of that long-established
+              system; we see and admit the necessity of preparation for so great an
+              event; but in speaking of indispensable preliminaries, we cannot be silent
+              on those laws of your country which, in direct contravention of God's own
+              law, instituted in the time of man's innocency, deny, in effect, to the
+              slave the sanctity of marriage, with all its joys, rights, and obligations;
+              which separate, at the will of the master, the wife from the husband, and
+              the children from the parents. Nor can we be silent on that awful system
+              which, either by statute or by custom, interdicts to any race of men, or
+              any portion of the human family, education in the truths of the gospel, and
+              the ordinances of Christianity.</p>
+              <p class="dgp">"A remedy applied to these two evils alone would commence
+              the amelioration of their sad condition. We appeal to you, then, as
+              sisters, as wives, and as mothers, to raise your voices to your
+              fellow-citizens, and your prayers to God, for the removal of this
+              affliction from the Christian world. We do not say these things in a spirit
+              of self-complacency, as though our nation were free from the guilt it
+              perceives in others. We acknowledge with grief and shame our heavy share in
+              this great sin. We acknowledge that our forefathers introduced, nay,
+              compelled the adoption of slavery in those mighty colonies. We humbly
+              confess it before Almighty God; and it is because we so deeply feel, and so
+              unfeignedly avow, our own complicity, that we now venture to implore your
+              aid to wipe away our common crime, and our common dishonor."</p>
+            </div>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_13" name="toc_13"></a>
+            <h3 class="dgp">Congregational Union&mdash;May 13.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Rev. John Angell James</span> said, "I will only for one moment revert to the
+            resolution.<a href="#note_5"><span class="footnoteref">5</span></a> It does
+            equal honor to the head, and the heart, and the pen of the man who drew it.
+            Beautiful in language, Christian in spirit, noble and generous in design, it
+            is just such a resolution as I shall be glad to see emanate from the
+            Congregational body, and find its way across the Atlantic to America. Sir, we
+            speak most powerfully, when, though we speak firmly, we speak in kindness;
+            and there is nothing in that resolution that can, by possibility, offend the
+            most fastidious taste of any individual present, or any individual in the
+            world, who takes the same views of the evil of slavery, in itself, as we do.
+            [Hear, hear!] I shall not trespass long upon the attention of this audience,
+            for we are all impatient to hear Professor Stowe speak in his own name, and
+            in the name of that distinguished lady whom it is his honor and his happiness
+            to call his wife. [Loud cheers.] His station and his acquirements, his
+            usefulness in America, his connection with our body, his representation of
+            the Pilgrim Fathers who bore the light of Christianity to his own country,
+            all make him welcome here. [Cheers.] But he will not be surprised if it is
+            not on his own account merely that we give him welcome, but also on account
+            of that distinguished woman to whom so marked an allusion has already been
+            made. To her, I am sure, we shall tender no praise, except the praise that
+            comes to her from a higher source than ours; from One who has, by the
+            testimony of her own conscience, echoing the voice from above, said to her,
+            'Well done, good and faithful servant.' Long, sir, may it be before the
+            completion of the sentence; before the welcome shall be given to her, when
+            she shall hear him say, 'Enter thou into the joy of thy Lord.' [Loud cheers.]
+            But, though we praise her not, or praise with chastened language, we would
+            say, Madam, we do thank you from the bottom of our hearts, [Hear, hear! and
+            immense cheering,] for rising up to vindicate our outraged humanity; for
+            rising up to expound the principles of our still nobler Christianity. For my
+            own part, it is not merely as an exposition of the evils of slavery that
+            makes me hail that wondrous volume to our country and to the world; but it is
+            the living exposition of the principles of the gospel that it contains, and
+            which will expound those principles to many an individual who would not hear
+            them from our lips, nor read them from our pens. I maintain, that Uncle Tom
+            is one of the most beautiful imbodiments of the Christian religion that was
+            ever presented in this world. [Loud cheers.] And it is that which makes me
+            take such delight in it. I rejoice that she killed him. [Laughter and
+            cheers.] He must die under the slave lash&mdash;he must die, the martyr of
+            slavery, and receive the crown of martyrdom from both worlds for his
+            testimony to the truth. [Turning to Mrs. Stowe, Mr. James continued:] May the
+            Lord God reward you for what you have done; we cannot, madam&mdash;we cannot
+            do it. [Cheers.] We rejoice in the perfect assurance, in the full confidence,
+            that the arrow which is to pierce the system of slavery to the heart has been
+            shot, and shot by a female hand. Right home to the mark it will go. [Cheers.]
+            It is true, the monster may groan and struggle for a long while yet; but die
+            it will; die it must&mdash;under the potency of that book. [Loud cheers.] It
+            never can recover. It will be your satisfaction, perhaps, in this world,
+            madam, to see the reward of your labors. Heaven grant that your life may be
+            prolonged, until such time as you see the reward of your labors in the
+            striking off of the last fetter of the last slave that still pollutes the
+            soil of your beloved country. [Cheers.] For beloved it is; and I should do
+            dishonor to your patriotism if I did not say it&mdash;beloved it is; and you
+            are prepared to echo the sentiments, by changing the terms, which we often
+            hear in old England, and say,&mdash;</p>
+            <div class="lg">
+              <p class="l">'America! with all thy faults I love thee still!'</p>
+            </div>
+            <p class="noindent">But still more intense will be my affection, and pure and
+            devoted the ardor of my patriotism, when this greatest of all thine ills,
+            this darkest of the blots upon thine escutcheon, shall be wiped out forever."
+            [Loud applause.]</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The Rev.
+            Professor Stowe</span> rose amid loud, and repeated cheers, and said, "It is
+            extremely painful for me to speak on the subject of American slavery, and
+            especially out of the borders of my own country. [Hear, hear!] I hardly know
+            whether painful or pleasurable emotions predominate, when I look upon the
+            audience to which I speak. I feel a very near affinity to the
+            Congregationalists of England, and especially to the Congregationalists of
+            London. [Cheers.] My ancestors were residents of London; at least, from the
+            time of Edward III.; they lived in Cornhill and Leadenhall Street, and their
+            bones lie buried in the old church of St. Andrew Under-Shaft; and, in the
+            year 1632, on account of their nonconformity, they were obliged to seek
+            refuge in the State of Massachusetts; and I have always felt a love and a
+            veneration for the Congregational churches of England, more than for any
+            other churches in any foreign land. [Cheers.] I can only hope, that my
+            conduct, as a religious man and a minister of Christ, may not bring discredit
+            upon my ancestors, and upon the honorable origin which I claim. [Hear! and
+            cheers.] I wish to say, in the first place, that in the United States the
+            Congregational churches, as a body, are free from slavery. [Cheers.] I do not
+            think that there is a Congregational church in the United States in which a
+            member could openly hold a slave without subjecting himself to discipline.<a
+            href="#note_6"><span class="footnoteref">6</span></a> True, I have met with
+            churches very deficient in their duty on this subject, and I am afraid there
+            are members of Congregational churches who hold slaves secretly as security
+            for debt in the Southern States. At the last great Congregational Convention,
+            held in the city of Albany, the churches took a step on the subject of
+            slavery much in advance of any other great ecclesiastical body in the
+            country. I hope it is but the beginning of a series of measures that will
+            eventuate in the separation of this body from all connection with slavery.
+            [Hear, hear!] I am extensively acquainted with the United States; I have
+            lived in different sections of them; I am familiar with people of all
+            classes, and it is my solemn conviction, that nine tenths of the people feel
+            on the subject of slavery as you do;<a href="#note_7"><span
+            class="footnoteref">7</span></a> [cheers;] perhaps not so intensely, for
+            familiarity with wrong deadens the conscience; but their convictions are
+            altogether as yours are; and in the slaveholding states, and among
+            slaveholders themselves, conscience is against the system. [Cheers.] There is
+            no legislative control of the subject of slavery, except by slaveholding
+            legislators themselves. Congress has no right to do any thing in the
+            premises. They violated the constitution, as I believe, in passing the
+            Fugitive Slave Act. [Cheers.] I do not believe they had any right to pass it.
+            [Hear, hear!] I stand here not as the representative of any body whatever. I
+            only represent myself, and give you my individual convictions, that have been
+            produced by a long and painful connection with the subject. [Hear, hear!] As
+            to the resolution, I approve it entirely. Its sentiment and its spirit are my
+            own. [Cheers.] At the close of the revolutionary war, which separated the
+            colonies from the mother country, every state of the Union was a slaveholding
+            state; every colony was a slaveholding colony; and now we have seventeen free
+            states. [Cheers.] Slavery has been abolished in one half of the original
+            colonies, and it was declared that there should be neither slavery nor the
+            slave trade in any territory north and west of the Ohio River; so that all
+            that part is entirely free from actual active participation in this curse,
+            laying open a free territory that, I think, must be ten times larger in
+            extent than Great Britain. [Loud cheers.] The State of Massachusetts was the
+            first in which slavery ceased. How did it cease? By an enactment of the
+            legislature? Not at all. They did not feel there was any necessity for such
+            an enactment. The Bill of Rights declared, that all men were born free, and
+            that they had an equal right to the pursuit of happiness and the acquisition
+            of property. In contradiction to that, there were slaves in every part of
+            Massachusetts; and some philanthropic individual advised a slave to bring
+            into court an action for wages against his master during all his time of
+            servitude. The action was brought, and the court decided that the negro was
+            entitled to wages during the whole period. [Cheers.] That put an end to
+            slavery in Massachusetts, and that decision ought to have put an end to
+            slavery in all states of the Union, because the law applied to all. They
+            abolished slavery in all the Northern States&mdash;in Maine, New Hampshire,
+            Vermont, Connecticut, and Rhode Island; and it was expected that the whole of
+            the states would follow the example. When I was a child, I never heard a lisp
+            in defence of slavery. [Hear, hear, hear!] Every body condemned it; all
+            looked upon it as a great curse, and all regarded it as a temporary evil,
+            which would soon melt away before the advancing light of truth. [Hear, hear!]
+            But still there was great injustice done to those who had been slaves. Every
+            body regarded the colored race as a degraded race; they were looked upon as
+            inferior; they were not upon terms of social equality. The only thing
+            approaching it was, that the colored children attended the schools with the
+            white children, and took their places on the same forms; but in all other
+            respects they were excluded from the common advantages and privileges of
+            society. In the places of worship they were seated by themselves; and that
+            difference always existed till these discussions came up, and they began to
+            feel mortified at their situation; and hence, wherever they could, they had
+            worship by themselves, and began to build places of worship for themselves;
+            and now you will scarcely find a colored person occupying a seat in our
+            places of worship. This stain still remains, and it is but a type of the
+            feeling that has been generated by slavery. This ought to be known and
+            understood, and this is just one of the out-croppings of that inward feeling
+            that still is doing great injustice to the colored race; but there are
+            symptoms of even that giving way.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"I suppose you all remember Dr.
+            Pennington&mdash;[cheers]&mdash;a colored minister of great talent and
+            excellence&mdash;[Hear, hear!]&mdash;though born a slave, and for many years
+            was a fugitive slave. [Hear, hear.] Dr. Pennington is a member of the
+            presbytery of New York; and within the last six months he has been chosen
+            moderator of that presbytery. [Loud cheers.] He has presided in that capacity
+            at the ordination of a minister to one of the most respectable churches of
+            that city. So far so good&mdash;we rejoice in it, and we hope that the same
+            sense of justice which has brought about that change, so that a colored man
+            can be moderator of a Presbytery in the city of New York, will go on, till
+            full justice is done to these people, and until the grievous wrongs to which
+            they have been subjected will be entirely done away. [Cheers.] But still,
+            what is the aspect which the great American nation now presents to the
+            Christian world? Most sorry am I to say it; but it is just this&mdash;a
+            Christian republic upholding slavery&mdash;the only great nation on earth
+            that does uphold it&mdash;a great Christian republic, which, so far as the
+            white people are concerned, is the fairest and most prosperous nation on
+            earth&mdash;that great Christian republic using all the power of its
+            government to secure and to shield this horrible institution of negro slavery
+            from aggression; and there is no subject on which the government is so
+            sensitive&mdash;there is no institution which it manifests such a
+            determination to uphold. [Hear, hear!] And then the most melancholy fact of
+            all is, that the entire Christian church in that republic, with few
+            exceptions, are silent, or are apologists for this great wrong. [Hear, hear!]
+            It makes my heart bleed to think of it; and there are many praying and
+            weeping in secret places over this curse, whose voices are not heard. There
+            is such a pressure on the subject, it is so mixed up with other things, that
+            many sigh over it who know not what to say or what to do in reference to it.
+            And what kind of slavery is it? Is it like the servitude under the Mosaic
+            law, which is brought forward to defend it? Nothing like it. Let me read you
+            a little extract from a correspondent of a New York paper, writing from
+            Paris. I will read it, because it is so graphic, and because I wish to show
+            from what sources you may best ascertain the real nature of American slavery.
+            The commercial newspapers, published by slaveholders, in slaveholding states,
+            will give you a far more graphic idea of what slavery actually is, than you
+            have from Uncle Tom's Cabin; for there the most horrible features are
+            softened. This writer says, 'And now a word on American representatives
+            abroad. I have already made my complaint of the troubles brought on Americans
+            here by that "incendiary" book of Mrs. Stowe's, especially of the difficulty
+            we have in making the French understand our institutions. But there was one
+            partially satisfactory way of answering their questions, by saying that Uncle
+            Tom's Cabin was a romance. And this would have served the purpose pretty
+            well, and spared our blushes for the model republic, if the slaveholders
+            themselves would only withhold their testimony to the truth of what we were
+            willing to let pass as fiction. But they are worse than Mrs. Stowe herself,
+            and their writings are getting to be quoted here quite extensively. The
+            <em>Moniteur</em> of to-day, and another widely-circulated journal that lies
+            on my table, both contain extracts from those extremely incendiary
+            periodicals, <em>The National Intelligencer</em>, of February 11, and <em>The
+            N.O. Picayune</em>, of February 17. The first gives an auctioneer's
+            advertisement of the sale of "a negro boy of eighteen years, a negro girl
+            aged sixteen, three horses, saddles, bridles, wheelbarrows," &amp;c. Then
+            follows an account of the sale, which reads very much like the description,
+            in the dramatic <em>feuilletons</em> here, of a famous scene in the <em>Case
+            de l'Oncle Tom</em>, as played at the <em>Ambigu Comique</em>. The second
+            extract is the advertisement of "our esteemed fellow-citizen, Mr. M.C.G.,"
+            who presents his "respects to the inhabitants of O. and the neighbouring
+            parishes," and "informs them that he keeps a fine pack of dogs trained to
+            catch negroes," &amp;c. It is painful to think that there are men in our
+            country who will write, and that there are others found to publish, such
+            tales as these about our peculiar institution. I put it to Mr. G., if he
+            thinks it is patriotic. As a "fellow-citizen," and in his private relations,
+            G. may be an estimable man, for aught I know, a Christian and a scholar, and
+            an ornament to the social circles of O. and the neighboring parishes. But as
+            an author, G. becomes public property, and a fair theme for criticism; and in
+            that capacity, I say G. is publishing the shame of his country. I call him
+            G., without the prefatory Mister, not from any personal disrespect, much as I
+            am grieved at his course as a writer, but because he is now breveted for
+            immortality, and goes down to posterity, like other immortals, without
+            titular prefix.' [Cheers.] Now, here is where you get the true features of
+            slavery. What is the reason that the churches, as a general thing, are
+            silent&mdash;that some of them are apologists, and that some, in the extreme
+            Southern States, actually defend slavery, and say it is a good institution,
+            and sanctioned by Scripture? It is simply this&mdash;the overwhelming power
+            of the slave system; and whence comes that overwhelming power? It comes from
+            its great influence in the commercial world. [Hear!] Until the time that
+            cotton became so extensively an article of export, there was not a word said
+            in defence of slavery, as far as I know, in the United States. In 1818, the
+            Presbyterian General Assembly passed resolutions unanimously on the subject
+            of slavery, to which this resolution is mildness itself; and not a man could
+            be found to say one word against it. But cotton became a most valuable
+            article of export. In one form and another, it became intimately associated
+            with the commercial affairs of the whole country. The northern manufacturers
+            were intimately connected with this cotton trade, and more than two thirds
+            raised in the United States has been sold in Great Britain; and it is this
+            cotton trade that supports the whole system. That you may rely upon. The
+            sugar and rice, so far as the United States are concerned, are but small
+            interests. The system is supported by this cotton trade, and within two days
+            I have seen an article written with vigor in the <em>Charleston Mercury</em>,
+            a southern paper of great influence, saying, that the slaveholders are
+            becoming isolated, by the force of public opinion, from the rest of the
+            world. They are beginning to be regarded as inhuman tyrants, and the slaves
+            the victims of their cruelty; but, says the writer, just so long as you take
+            our cotton, we shall have our slaves. Now, you are as really involved in this
+            matter as we are&mdash;[Hear, hear!]&mdash;and if you have no other right to
+            speak on the subject, you have a right to speak from being yourselves very
+            active participators in the wrong. You have a great deal of feeling on the
+            subject, honorable and generous feeling, I know&mdash;an earnest,
+            philanthropic, Christian feeling; but if you have nothing to do, that feeling
+            will all evaporate, and leave an apathy behind. Now, here is something to be
+            done. It may be a small beginning, but, as you go forward, Providence will
+            develop other plans, and the more you do, the further you will see. I am
+            happy to know that a beginning has been made. There are indications that a
+            way has been so opened in providence that this exigency can be met. Within
+            the last few years, the Chinese have begun to emigrate to the western parts
+            of the United States. They will maintain themselves on small wages; and
+            wherever they come into actual competition with slave labor, it cannot
+            compete with them. Very many of the slaveholders have spoken of this as a
+            very remarkable indication. If slavery had been confined to the original
+            slave states, as it was intended, slavery could not have lived. It was the
+            intention that it should never go beyond those boundaries. Had this been the
+            case, it would increase the number of slaves so much that they would have
+            been valueless as articles of property. I must say this for America, that the
+            slaves increase in the slave states faster than the white people; and it
+            shows that their physical condition is better than was that of the slaves at
+            the West Indies, or in Cuba, where the number actually diminished. We must
+            have more slave territories to make our slaves valuable, and there was the
+            origin of that iniquitous Mexican war, whereby was added the vast territory
+            of Texas; and then it was the intention to make California a slave state;
+            but, I am happy to say, it has been received into the Union as a free state,
+            and God grant it may continue so. [Hear, hear!] What has been the effect of
+            this expansion of slave territory? It has doubled the value of slaves. Since
+            I can remember, a strong slave man would sell for about four hundred or six
+            hundred dollars&mdash;that is, about one hundred pounds; but now, during the
+            present season, I have known instances in which a slave man has been sold for
+            two hundred and thirty pounds. There are more slaves raised in Virginia and
+            Maryland than they can use in those states in labor, and, therefore, they
+            sell them at one hundred, two hundred, or three hundred pounds, as the case
+            may be, for cash. All that Mrs. Tyler intimates in that letter about slavery
+            in America, and the impression it is calculated and intended to convey, that
+            they treat their slaves so well, and do not separate their families, and so
+            forth, is all mere humbug. [Laughter and cheers.] It is well known that
+            Virginia has more profit from selling negroes than from any other source. The
+            great sources of profit are tobacco and negroes, and they derive more from
+            the sale of negroes than tobacco. You see the temptation this gives to
+            avarice. Suppose there is a man with no property, except fifteen or twenty
+            negro men, whom he can sell, each one for two hundred pounds, cash; and he
+            has as many negro women, whom he can sell for one hundred and fifty pounds,
+            cash, and the children for one hundred pounds each: here is a temptation to
+            avarice; and it is calculated to silence the voice of conscience; and it is
+            the expansion of the slave territory, and the immense mercantile value of the
+            cotton, that has brought so powerful an influence to bear on the United
+            States in favor of slavery. [Hear, hear.] Now, as to free labor coming into
+            competition with slave labor: You will see, that when the price of slaves is
+            so enormous, it requires an immense outlay to stock a plantation. A good
+            plantation would take two hundred, or three hundred hands. Now, say for every
+            hand employed on this plantation, the man must pay on an average two hundred
+            pounds, which is not exorbitant at the present time. If he has to pay at this
+            rate, what an immense outlay of capital to begin with, and how great the
+            interest on that sum continually accumulating! And then there is the constant
+            exposure to loss. These plantation negroes are very careless of life, and
+            often cholera gets among them, and sweeps off twenty-five or thirty in a few
+            days; and then there is the underground railroad, and, with all the
+            precautions that can be taken, it continues to work. And now you see what an
+            immense risk, and exposure to loss, and a vast outlay of capital, there is in
+            connection with this system. But, if a man takes a cotton farm, and can
+            employ Chinese laborers, he can get them for one or two shillings a day, and
+            they will do the work as well, if not better than negroes, and there is no
+            outlay or risk. [Hear, hear!]. If good cotton fields can be obtained, as they
+            may in time, here is an opening which will tend to weaken the slave system.
+            If Christians will investigate this subject, and if philanthropists generally
+            will pursue these inquiries in an honest spirit, it is not long before we
+            shall see a movement throughout the civilized world, and the upholders of
+            slavery will feel, where they feel most acutely&mdash;in their pockets. Until
+            something of this kind is done, I despair of accomplishing any great amount
+            of good by simple appeals to the conscience and right principle. There are a
+            few who will listen to conscience and a sense of right, but there are
+            unhappily only a few. I suppose, though you have good Christians here, you
+            have many who will put their consciences in their pockets. [Hear, hear!] I
+            have known cases of this kind. There was a young lady in the State of
+            Virginia who was left an orphan, and she had no property except four negro
+            slaves, who were of great commercial value. She felt that slavery was wrong,
+            and she could not hold them. She gave them their
+            freedom&mdash;[cheers]&mdash;and supported herself by teaching a small
+            school. [Cheers.] Now, notwithstanding all the unfavorable things we
+            see&mdash;notwithstanding the dark cloud that hangs over the country, there
+            are hopeful indications that God has not forgotten us, and that he will carry
+            on this work till it is accomplished. [Hear!] But it will be a long while
+            first, I fear; and we must pray, and labor, and persevere; for he that
+            perseveres to the end, and he only, receives the crown. Now, there are very
+            few in the United States who undertake to defend slavery, and say it is
+            right. But the great majority, even of professors of religion, unite to
+            shield it from aggression. 'It is the law of the land,' they say, 'and we
+            must submit to it.' It seems a strange doctrine to come from the lips of the
+            descendants of the Puritans, those who resisted the law of the land because
+            those laws were against their conscience, and finally went over to that new
+            world, in order that they might enjoy the rights of conscience. How would it
+            have been with the primitive church if this doctrine had prevailed? There
+            never would have been any Christian church, for that was against the laws of
+            the land. In regard to the distribution of the Bible, in many states the laws
+            prohibit the teaching of slaves, and the distribution of the Bible is not
+            allowed among them. The American Bible Society does not itself take the
+            responsibility of this. It leaves the whole matter to the local societies in
+            the several states, and it is the local societies that take the
+            responsibility. Well, why should we obey the law of the land in South
+            Carolina on this subject, and disobey the law of the land in Italy? But our
+            missionary societies and Bible societies send Bibles to other parts of the
+            world, and never ask if it is contrary to the law of these lands, and if it
+            is, they push it all the more zealously. They send Bibles to Italy and Spain,
+            and yet the Bible is prohibited by those governments. The American Tract
+            Society and the American Sunday School Union allow none of their issues to
+            utter a syllable against slavery. They expunge even from their European books
+            every passage of this kind, and excuse themselves by the law and the public
+            sentiment. So are the people taught. There has been a great deal said on the
+            subject of influence from abroad; but those who talk in that way interfered
+            with the persecution of the Madiai, and remonstrated with the Tuscan
+            government. We have had large meetings on the subject in New York, and those
+            who refuse the Bible to the slave took part in that meeting, and did not seem
+            to think there was any inconsistency in their conduct.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"The Christian church knows no distinction of nations. In that
+            church there is neither Greek nor Jew, Barbarian, Scythian, bond nor free,
+            but all are one in Christ; and whatever affects one part of the body affects
+            the other, and the whole Christian church every where is bound to help, and
+            encourage, and rebuke, as the case may require. The Christian church is every
+            where bound to its corresponding branch in every other country; and thus you
+            have, not only a right, but it is your duty, to consider the case of the
+            American slave with just the same interest with which you consider the cause
+            of the native Hindoo, when you send out your missionaries there, or with
+            which you consider Madagascar; and to express yourselves in a Christian
+            spirit, and in a Christian way continually, till you see that your
+            admonitions have had a suitable influence. I do not doubt what you say, that
+            you will receive with great pleasure men who come from the United States to
+            promote the cause of temperance, and you may have the opportunity of showing
+            your sincerity before long; and the manner in which you receive them will
+            have a very important bearing on the subject of slavery. [Cheers.] I have not
+            the least doubt you will hail with joy those who will come across the
+            Atlantic to advance and promote still more earnestly those noble
+            institutions, the ragged schools and the ragged churches. [Cheers.] The men
+            who want to do good at home are the men who do good abroad; and the same
+            spirit of Christian liberality that leads you to feel for the American slave
+            will lead you to care for your own poor, and those in adverse circumstances
+            in your own land, I would ask, Is it possible, then, that admonition and
+            reproof given in a Christian spirit, and by a Christian heart, can fail to
+            produce a right influence on a Christian spirit and a Christian heart? I
+            think the thing is utterly impossible; and that if such admonitions as are
+            contained in the resolution, conceived in such a spirit, and so kindly
+            expressed&mdash;if they are not received in a Christian spirit, it is because
+            the Christian spirit has unhappily fled. I can answer for myself, at least,
+            and many of my brethren, that it will be so; and, so far from desiring you to
+            withhold your expressions on account of any bad feeling that they might
+            excite, I wish you to reiterate them, and reiterate them in the same spirit
+            in which they are given in this resolution; for I believe that these
+            expressions of impatience and petulance represent the feelings of very few.
+            Who is it that always speaks first? The angry man, and it comes out at once;
+            but the wise man keeps it in till afterwards; and it will not be long before
+            you will find, that whatever you say in a Christian spirit will be responded
+            to on the other side of the water. Now, I believe our churches have neglected
+            their duty on this subject, and are still neglecting it. Many do not seem to
+            know what their duty is. Yet I believe them to be good, conscientious men,
+            and men who will do their duty when they know what it is. Take, for example,
+            the American Board of Foreign Missions. There are not better men, or more
+            conscientious men, on the face of the earth, or men more sincerely desirous
+            of doing their duty; yet, in some things, I believe they are mistaken. I
+            think it would be better to throw over the very few churches connected with
+            the Board which are slaveholding, than to endeavor to sustain them, and to
+            have all this pressure of responsibility still upon them. But yet they are
+            pursuing the course which they conscientiously think to be right. Christian
+            admonition will not be lost upon them.<a href="#note_8"><span
+            class="footnoteref">8</span></a> I will say the same of the American Home
+            Missionary Society. They have little to do with slavery, as I have already
+            remarked. Many think they ought not to say any thing upon the subject,
+            because they cannot do so without weakening their influence. But then this
+            question comes: If good men do not speak, who will?&mdash;[Hear,
+            hear!]&mdash;and, as our Savior said in regard to the children that shouted,
+            Hosannah, 'If these should hold their peace, the stones would immediately cry
+            out.' It is in consequence of their silence that stones have begun to cry
+            out, and they rebuke the silence and apathy of good men; and this is made an
+            argument against religion, which has had effect with unthinking people; so I
+            think it absolutely necessary that men in the church, on that very ground,
+            should speak out their mind on this great subject at whatever
+            risk&mdash;[cheers]&mdash;and they must take the consequences. In due time
+            God will prosper the right, and in due time the fetters will fall from every
+            slave, and the black man will have the same privileges as the white.
+            [Applause.]"</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_14" name="toc_14"></a>
+            <h3 class="dgp">Royal Highland School Society Dinner, At The Freemason's
+            Tavern, London&mdash;May 14.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Chairman, Sir Archibald Alison</span>, gave "The health of her Grace the
+            Duchess of Sutherland, and the noble patronesses of the Society," which was
+            received with great applause. It was extremely gratifying, he said, to find a
+            lady, belonging to one of the most ancient and noblest families of the
+            kingdom, displaying so great an interest in their institution. [Cheers.] Not
+            the least of their obligations to her Grace was the opportunity she had given
+            them to offer their respects to a lady, remarkable alike for her genius and
+            her philanthropy, who had come from across the Atlantic, and who, by her
+            philanthropic exertions in the cause of negro emancipation, had enlisted the
+            feelings and called forth the sympathies of thousands and tens of thousands
+            on both sides of the ocean. [Tremendous cheering.] She had shown that the
+            genius, and talents, and energies, which such a cause inspired, had created a
+            species of freemasonry throughout the world; it had set aside nationalities,
+            and bound two nations together which the broad Atlantic could not sever; and
+            created a union of sentiment and purpose which he trusted would continue till
+            the great work of negro emancipation had been finally accomplished.
+            [Cheers.]</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor
+            Stowe</span> responded to the allusion which had been made to Mrs. Stowe, and
+            was greeted with hearty applause. He said he had read in his childhood the
+            writings of Sir Walter Scott, and thus became intensely interested in all
+            that pertained to Scotland. [Cheers.] He had read, more recently, his Life of
+            Napoleon, and also Sir Archibald Alison's History of Europe. [Protracted
+            cheers.] But he certainly never expected to be called upon to address such an
+            assembly as that, and under such circumstances. Nothing could exceed the
+            astonishment which was felt by himself and Mrs. Stowe at the cordiality of
+            their reception in every part of Great Britain, from persons of every rank in
+            life. [Cheers.] Every body seemed to have read her book. [Hear, hear! and
+            loud cheers.] Everyone seemed to have been deeply interested, [cheers,] and
+            disposed to return a full-hearted homage to the writer. But all she claimed
+            credit for was truth, and honesty, and earnestness of purpose. He had only to
+            add that he cordially thanked the Royal Highland School Society for the
+            kindness which induced them to invite him and Mrs. Stowe to be present that
+            evening. [Cheers.] The work in which the society was engaged was one that
+            they both held dear, and in which they felt the deepest interest, inasmuch as
+            that object was to promote the education of youth among those whose poverty
+            rendered them unable to provide the means of education for themselves. [Hear,
+            hear!] In such works as that they had themselves for most of their lives been
+            diligently engaged. [Cheers.]</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_15" name="toc_15"></a>
+            <h3 class="dgp">Antislavery Society, Exeter Hall&mdash;May 16.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Earl Of Shaftesbury</span>, who, on coming forward to open the proceedings,
+            was received with much applause, spoke as follows: "We are assembled here
+            this night to protest, with the utmost intensity, and with all the force
+            which language can command, against the greatest wrong that the wickedness of
+            man ever perpetrated upon his fellow-man&mdash;[loud cheers]&mdash;a wrong
+            which, great in all ages&mdash;great in heathen times&mdash;great in all
+            countries&mdash;great even under heathen sentiments&mdash;is indescribably
+            monstrous in Christian days, and exercised as it is, not unfrequently, over
+            Christian people. [Hear!] It is surely remarkable, and exceedingly
+            disgraceful to a century and a generation so boastful of its progress, and of
+            the institution of so many Bible societies, with so many professions and
+            preachments of Christianity&mdash;with so many declarations of the spiritual
+            value of man before God&mdash;after so many declarations of this equality of
+            every man in the sight of his fellow-man&mdash;that we should be assembled
+            here this evening to protest against the conduct of a mighty and a Protestant
+            people, who, in the spirit of the Romish Babylon, which they had renounced,
+            resort to her most abominable practices&mdash;making merchandise of the
+            temples of God, and trafficking in the bodies and souls of men. [Cheers.] We
+            are not here to proclaim and maintain our own immaculate purity. We are not
+            here to stand forward and say, 'I am holier than thou.' We have confessed,
+            and that openly, and freely, and unreservedly, our share, our heavy share, in
+            by-gone days, of vast wickedness; we have, we declare it again, and we had
+            our deep remorse. We sympathize with the preponderating bulk of the American
+            people; we acknowledge and we feel the difficulties which beset them; we
+            rejoice and we believe in their good intentions; but we have no
+            patience&mdash;I at least have none&mdash;with those professed leaders, be
+            they political or be they clerical, who mislead the people&mdash;with those
+            who, blasphemously resting slavery on the Holy Scriptures, desecrate their
+            pulpits by the promulgation of doctrines better suited to the synagogue of
+            Satan&mdash;[cheers]&mdash;nor with that gentleman who, the greatest officer
+            of the greatest republic in the whole world, in pronouncing an inaugural
+            address to the assembled multitudes, maintains the institution of slavery;
+            and&mdash;will you believe it?&mdash;invokes the Almighty God to maintain
+            those rights, and thus sanction the violation of his own laws!&mdash;[Cries
+            of 'Shame!'] This is, indeed, a dismal prospect for those who tremble at
+            human power; but we have this consolation: Is it not said that, 'When the
+            enemy shall come in like a flood, the Spirit of the Lord shall lift up a
+            standard against him?' [Hear, hear!] He has done so now, and a most wonderful
+            and almost inspired protector has arisen for the suffering of this much
+            injured race. [Loud cheers.] Feeble as her sex, but irresistible as virtue
+            and as truth, she will prove to her adversary, and to ours, that such
+            boasting shall not be for his honor, 'for the Lord will sell Sisera into the
+            hands of a woman.' [Hear, hear! and loud cheers.] Now, I ask you this: Is
+            there one of you who believes that the statements of that marvellous book to
+            which we have alluded present an exaggerated picture?&mdash;[Tremendous cries
+            of 'No, no.'] Do they not know, say what they will, that the truth is not
+            fully stated? [Hear, hear!] The reality is worse than the fiction. [Hear,
+            hear!] But, apart from this, there is our solemn declaration that the
+            vileness of the principle is at once exhibited in the mere notion of slavery,
+            and the atrocities of it are the natural and almost inevitable consequences
+            of the profession and exercise of absolute and irresponsible power. [Hear,
+            hear!] But do you doubt the fact? Look to the document. I will quote to you
+            from this book. I have never read any thing more strikingly illustrative or
+            condemnatory of the system we are here to denounce. Here is the judgment
+            pronounced by one of the judges in North Carolina. It is impossible to read
+            this judgment, however terrible the conclusion, without feeling convinced
+            that the man who pronounced it was a man of a great mind, and, in spite of
+            the law he was bound to administer, a man of a great heart. [Hear, hear!]
+            Hear what he says. The case was this: It was a 'case of appeal,' in which the
+            defendant had hired a slave woman for a year. During this time she committed
+            some slight offence, for which the defendant undertook to chastise her. After
+            doing so he shot at her as she was running away. The question then arose, was
+            he justified in using that amount of coercion? and whether the privilege of
+            shooting was not confined to the actual proprietor? The case was argued at
+            some length, and the court, in pronouncing judgment, began by deploring that
+            any judge should ever be called upon to decide such a case, but he had to
+            administer the law, and not to make it. The judge said, 'With whatever
+            reluctance, therefore, the court is bound to express the opinion, that the
+            dominion over a slave in Carolina has not, as it has been argued, any analogy
+            with the authority of a tutor over a pupil, of a master over an apprentice,
+            or of a parent over a child. The court does not recognize these applications.
+            There is no likeness between them. They are in opposition to each other, and
+            there is an impassable gulf between them. The difference is that which exists
+            between freedom and slavery&mdash;[Hear, hear!]&mdash;and a greater
+            difference cannot be imagined. In the one case, the end in view is the
+            happiness of the youth, born to equal rights with the tutor, whose duty it is
+            to train the young to usefulness by moral and intellectual instruction. If
+            they will not suffice, a moderate chastisement maybe administered. But with
+            slavery it is far otherwise.' Mark these words, for they contain the whole
+            thing. But with slavery it is far otherwise. The end is the profit of the
+            master, and the poor object is one doomed, in his own person, and in his
+            posterity, to live without knowledge, and without capacity to attain any
+            thing which he may call his own. He has only to labor, that another may reap
+            the fruits.' [Hear, hear!] Mark! this is from the sacred bench of justice,
+            pronounced by one of the first intellects in America! 'There is nothing else
+            which can operate to produce the effect; the power of the master must be
+            absolute, to render the submission of the slave perfect. [Hear, hear!] It is
+            inherent in the relation of master and slave;' and then he adds those
+            never-to-be-forgotten words, 'We cannot allow the right of the master to come
+            under discussion in the courts of justice. The slave must be made sensible
+            that there is no appeal from his master, and that his master's power is in no
+            instance usurped; that these rights are conferred by the laws of man, at
+            least, if not by the law of God.' [Loud cries of 'Shame, shame!'] This is the
+            mode in which we are to regard these two classes of beings, both created by
+            the same God, and both redeemed by the same Savior as ourselves, and destined
+            to the same immortality! The judgment, on appeal, was reversed; but, God be
+            praised; there is another appeal, and that appeal we make to the highest of
+            all imaginable courts, where God is the judge, where mercy is the advocate,
+            and where unerring truth will pronounce the decision![Protracted cheering.]
+            There are some who are pleased to tell us that there is an inferiority in the
+            race! That is untrue. [Cheers.] But we are not here to inquire whether our
+            black brethren will become Shakspeares or Herschels. [Hear, hear!] I ask, are
+            they immortal beings? [Great applause.] Do our adversaries, say no? I ask
+            them, then, to show me one word in the handwriting of God which has thus
+            levelled them with the brute beasts. [Hear, hear!] Let us bear in mind those
+            words of our blessed Savior&mdash;'Whosoever shall offend one of these little
+            ones who believe in me, it were better that a millstone were hanged about his
+            neck, and that he were cast into the depths of the sea.' [Loud cheers.] Now,
+            then, what is our duty? Is it to stand still? Yes! when we receive the
+            command from the same authority that said to the sun, Stand over Gibeon!
+            [Loud cheers.] Then, and not till then, will we stand still. [Renewed
+            cheers.] Are we to listen to the craven and miserable talk about 'doing more
+            harm than good'? [Hear, hear!] This was an argument which would have checked
+            every noble enterprise which has been undertaken since the world began. It
+            would have strangled Wilberforce, and checked the very Exodus itself from the
+            house of bondage in Egypt. [Hear, hear!] Out on all such craven talk!
+            [Cheers.] Slavery is a mystery, and so is all sin, and we must fight against
+            it; and, by the blessing of God, we will. [Loud cheers.] We must pray to
+            Almighty God, that we and our American brethren&mdash;who seem now to be the
+            sole depositories of the Protestant truth, and of civil and religious
+            liberty, may be as one. [Cheers.] We are feeble, if hostile; but, if united,
+            we are the arbiters of the world. [Cheers.] Let us join together for the
+            temporal and spiritual good of our race."</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor
+            Stowe</span> then came forward, and was received with unbounded
+            demonstrations of applause. When the cheering had subsided, he said "he felt
+            utterly exhausted by the heat and excitement of the meeting, and should
+            therefore be glad to be excused from saying a single word; however, he would
+            utter a few thoughts. The following was the resolution which he had to submit
+            to the meeting: 'That with a view to the correction of public sentiment on
+            this subject in slaveholding communities, it is of the first importance that
+            those who are earnest in condemnation of slavery should observe consistency;
+            and, therefore, that it is their duty to encourage the development of the
+            natural resources of countries where slavery does not exist, and the soil of
+            which is adapted to the growth of products&mdash;especially of
+            cotton&mdash;now partially or chiefly raised by slave labor; and though the
+            extinction of slavery is less to be expected from a diminished demand for
+            slave produce than from the moral effects of a steadfast abhorrence of
+            slavery itself, and from an unwavering and consistent opposition to it, this
+            meeting would earnestly recommend, that in all cases where it is practicable,
+            a decided preference should be given to the products of free labor, by all
+            who enter their protest against slavery, so that at least they themselves may
+            be clear of any participation in the guilt of the system, and be thus morally
+            strengthened in their condemnation of it.' At the close of the revolutionary
+            war, all the states of America were slaveholding states. In Massachusetts,
+            some benevolent white man caused a slave to try an action for wages in a
+            court of justice. He succeeded, and the consequence was, that slavery fell in
+            Massachusetts. It was then universally acknowledged that slavery was a sin
+            and shame, and ought to be abolished, and it was expected that it would be
+            soon abolished in every state of the Union. Mr. Jefferson, Mr. Madison, and
+            Benjamin Franklin would not allow the word 'slave' to occur in the
+            constitution, and Mr. Edwards, from the pulpit, clearly and broadly denounced
+            slavery. And when he (Professor Stowe) was a boy, in Massachusetts the negro
+            children were admitted to the same schools with the whites. Although there
+            was some prejudice of color then, yet it was not so strong as at present. In
+            1818, the General Assembly of the Presbyterian church in the United States
+            passed, resolutions against slavery far stronger than those passed at the
+            meeting this evening, and every man, north and south, voted for them. What
+            had caused the change? It was the profitableness of the cotton trade. It was
+            that which had spread the chains of slavery over the Union, and silenced the
+            church upon the subject. He had been asked, what right had Great Britain to
+            interfere? Why, Great Britain took four fifths of the cotton of America, and
+            therefore sustained four fifths of the slavery. That gave them a right to
+            interfere. [Hear, hear!] He admitted that our participation in the guilt was
+            not direct, but without the cotton, trade of Great Britain slavery would have
+            been abolished long ago, for the American manufacturers consumed but one
+            fifth of all the cotton grown in the country. The conscience of the cotton
+            growers was talked of; but had the cotton consumer no conscience? [Cheers.]
+            It seemed to him that the British public had more direct access to the
+            consumer than to the grower of cotton." Professor Stowe then read an extract
+            from a paper published in Charleston, South Carolina, showing the influence
+            of the American cotton trade on the slavery question. "The price of cotton
+            regulated the price of slaves, who were now worth an average of two hundred
+            pounds. A cotton plantation required in some cases two hundred, and in others
+            four hundred slaves. This would give an idea of the capital needed. With free
+            labor there was none of this outlay&mdash;there was none of those losses by
+            the cholera, and the 'underground railroad,' to which the slave owners were
+            subjected. [Hear, hear!] The Chinese had come over in large numbers, and
+            could be hired for small wages, on which they managed to live well in their
+            way. If people would encourage free-grown cotton, that would be the strongest
+            appeal they could make to the slaveholder. There were three ways of
+            abolishing slavery. First, by a bloody revolution, which few would approve.
+            [Hear, hear!] Secondly, by persuading slaveholders of the wrong they commit;
+            but this would have little effect so long as they bought their cotton. [Hear,
+            hear!] And the third and most feasible way was, by making slave labor
+            unprofitable, as compared with free labor. [Hear!] When the Chinese first
+            began to emigrate to California, it was predicted that slavery would be 'run
+            out' that way. He hoped it might be so. [Cheers.] The reverend gentleman then
+            reverted to his previous visit to this country, seventeen years ago, and
+            described the rapid strides which had been made in the work of
+            education&mdash;especially the education of the poor&mdash;in the interval.
+            It was most gratifying to him, and more easily seen by him than it would be
+            by us, with whom the change had been gradual. He had been told in America
+            that the English abolitionists were prompted by jealousy of America, but he
+            had found that to be false. The Christian feeling which had dictated efforts
+            on behalf of ragged schools and factory children, and the welfare of the poor
+            and distressed of every kind, had caused the same Christian hearts to throb
+            for the American slave. It was that Christian philanthropy which received all
+            men as brethren&mdash;children of the same father, and therefore he had great
+            hopes of success. [Cheers.]"</p>
+            <br />
+
+            <p class="noindent">My remarks on the cotton business of Britain were made
+            with entire sincerity, and a single-hearted desire to promote the antislavery
+            cause. They are sentiments which I had long entertained, and which I had
+            taken every opportunity to express with the utmost freedom from the time of
+            my first landing in Liverpool, the great cotton mart of England, and where,
+            if any where, they might be supposed capable of giving offence; yet no
+            exception was taken to them, so far as I know, till delivered in Exeter Hall.
+            There they were heard by some with surprise, and by others with extreme
+            displeasure. I was even called <em>proslavery</em>, and ranked with Mrs.
+            Julia Tyler, for frankly speaking the truth, under circumstances of great
+            temptation to ignore it.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Still I have the satisfaction of knowing that both my views
+            and my motives were rightly understood and properly appreciated by
+            large-hearted and clear-headed philanthropists, like the Earl of Shaftesbury
+            and Joseph Sturge, and very fairly represented and commented upon by such
+            religious and secular papers as the Christian Times, the British Banner, the
+            London Daily News and Chronicle; and even the <em>thundering political</em>
+            Times seemed disposed, in a half-sarcastic way, to admit that I was more than
+            half right.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">But it is most satisfactory of all to know that the best of
+            the British abolitionists are now acting, promptly and efficiently, in
+            accordance with those views, and are determined to develop the resources of
+            the British empire for the production of cotton by free labor. The thing is
+            practicable, and not of very difficult accomplishment. It is furthermore
+            absolutely essential to the success of the antislavery cause; for now the
+            great practical leading argument for slavery is, <em>Without slavery you can
+            have no cotton, and cotton you must and will have</em>. The latest work that
+            I have read in defence of slavery (Uncle Tom in Paris, Baltimore, 1854) says,
+            (pp. 56-7,) "<em>Of the cotton which supplies the wants of the civilized
+            world, the south produces 86 per cent.; and without slave labor experience
+            has shown that the cotton plant cannot be cultivated</em>."</p>
+            <p class="dgp">How the matter is viewed by sagacious and practical minds in
+            Britain, is clear from the following sentences, taken from the National
+            Era:&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"<span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Cotton</span> is <span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">King</span>.&mdash;Charles Dickens, in a
+            late number of his Household Words, after enumerating the striking facts of
+            cotton, says,&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"'Let any social or physical convulsion visit the United
+            States, and England would feel the shock from Land's End to John o'Groat's.
+            The lives of nearly two millions of our countrymen are dependent upon the
+            cotton crops of America; their destiny may be said, without any sort of
+            hyperbole, to hang upon a thread.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"'Should any dire calamity befall the land of cotton, a
+            thousand of our merchant ships would rot idly in dock; ten thousand mills
+            must stop their busy looms, and two million mouths would starve for lack of
+            food to feed them.'</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"How many non-slaveholders elsewhere are thus interested in
+            the products of slaves? Is it not worthy the attention of genuine
+            philanthropists to inquire whether cotton cannot be profitably cultivated by
+            free labor?"</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_16" name="toc_16"></a>
+            <h3 class="dgp">Soir&eacute;e At Willis's Rooms&mdash;May 25.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mr.
+            Joseph Sturge</span> took the chair, announcing that he did so in the absence
+            of the Earl of Shaftesbury, who was prevented from attending.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">It was announced that letters had been received from the Duke
+            of Newcastle and the Earls of Carlisle and Shaftesbury, expressing their
+            sympathy with the object of the meeting, and their regret at being unable to
+            attend.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">The Secretary, <span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Samuel Bowley, Esq.</span>, of Gloucester,
+            then read the address, which was as follows:&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"<span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Madam</span>: It is with feelings of the
+            deepest interest that the committee of the British and Foreign Antislavery
+            Society, on behalf of themselves and of the society they represent, welcome
+            the gifted authoress of Uncle Tom's Cabin to the shores of Great Britain.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"As humble laborers in the cause of negro emancipation, we
+            hail, with emotions more easily imagined than described, the appearance of
+            that remarkable work, which has awakened a world-wide sympathy on behalf of
+            the suffering negro, and called forth a burst of honest indignation against
+            the atrocious system of slavery, which, we trust, under the divine blessing,
+            will, at no distant period, accomplish its entire abolition. We are not
+            insensible to those extraordinary merits of Uncle Tom's Cabin, as a merely
+            literary production, which have procured for its talented authoress such
+            universal commendation and enthusiastic applause; but we feel it to be our
+            duty to refer rather to the Christian principles and earnest piety which
+            pervade its interesting pages, and to express our warmest desire, we trust we
+            may say heartfelt prayer, that He who bestowed upon you the power and the
+            grace to write such a work may preserve and bless you amid all your honours,
+            and enable you, under a grateful and humble sense of his abundant goodness,
+            to give him all the glory.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"We rejoice to find that the great principles upon which our
+            society is based are so fully and so cordially recognized by yourself and
+            your beloved husband and brother&mdash;First, that personal slavery, in all
+            its varied forms, is a direct violation of the blessed, precepts of the
+            gospel, and therefore a sin in the sight of God; and secondly, that every
+            victim of this unjust and sinful system is entitled to immediate and
+            unconditional freedom. For, however we might acquiesce in the course of a
+            nation which, under a sense of its participation in the guilt of slavery,
+            should share the pecuniary loss, if such there were, of its immediate
+            abolition, yet we repudiate the right to demand compensation for human flesh
+            and blood, as (to employ the emphatic words of Lord Brougham) we repudiate
+            and abhor 'the wild and guilty fantasy that man can hold property in man.'
+            And we do not hesitate to express our conviction, strengthened by the
+            experience of emancipation in our own colonies, that on the mere ground of
+            social or political expediency, the immediate termination of slavery would be
+            far less dangerous and far less injurious than, any system of compromise, or
+            any attempt at gradual emancipation.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Let it be borne in mind, however,&mdash;and we record it with
+            peculiar interest on the present occasion,&mdash;that it was the pen of a
+            woman that first publicly enunciated the imperative duty of immediate
+            emancipation. Amid vituperation and ridicule, and, far worse, the cold rebuke
+            of Christian friends, Mrs. Elizabeth Heyrick boldly sent forth the thrilling
+            tract which taught the abolitionists of Great Britain this lesson of justice
+            and truth; and we honor her memory for her deeds. Again we are indebted to
+            the pen of a woman for pleading yet more powerfully the cause of justice to
+            the slave; and again we have to admire and honor the Christian heroism which
+            has enabled you, dear madam, to brave the storm of public opinion, and to
+            bear the frowns of the church in your own land, while you boldly sent forth
+            your matchless volume to teach more widely and more attractively the same
+            righteous lesson.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"We desire to feel grateful for the measure of success that
+            has crowned the advocacy of these sound antislavery principles in our own
+            country; but we cannot but feel, that as regards the continuance of slavery
+            in America, we have cause for humiliation and shame in the existence of the
+            melancholy fact that a large proportion of the fruits of the bitter toil and
+            suffering of the slaves in the western world are used to minister to the
+            comfort and the luxury of our own population. When this anomaly of a
+            country's putting down slavery by law on the one hand, and supporting it by
+            its trade and commerce on the other, will be removed, it is not for us to
+            predict; but we are conscious that our position is such as should at least
+            dissipate every sentiment of self-complacency, and make us feel, both
+            nationally and individually, how deep a responsibility still rests upon us to
+            wash our own hands of this iniquity, and to seek by every legitimate means in
+            our power to rid the world of this fearful institution.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"True Christian philanthropy knows no geographical limits, no
+            distinctions of race or color; but wherever it sees its fellow-man the victim
+            of suffering and oppression, it seeks to alleviate his sorrows, or drops a
+            tear of sympathy over the afflictions which it has not the power to remove.
+            We cannot but believe that these enlarged and generous sympathies will be
+            aroused and strengthened in the hearts of thousands and tens of thousands of
+            all classes who have wept over the touching pages of Uncle Tom's Cabin. We
+            have marked the rapid progress of its circulation from circle to circle, and
+            from country to country, with feelings of thrilling interest; for we trust,
+            by the divine blessing upon the softening influence and Christian sentiments
+            it breathes, it will be made the harbinger of a better and brighter day for
+            the happiness and the harmony of the human family. The facilities for
+            international intercourse which we now possess, while they rapidly tend to
+            remove those absurd jealousies which have so long existed between the nations
+            of the earth, are daily increasing the power of public opinion in the world
+            at large, which is so well described by one of our leading statesmen in these
+            forcible words: 'It is quite true, it may be said, what are opinions against
+            armies? Opinions, if they are founded in truth and justice, will in the end
+            prevail against the bayonets of infantry, the fire of artillery, and the
+            charges of cavalry.' Responding most cordially to these sentiments, we
+            rejoice with thanksgiving to God that you, whom we now greet and welcome as
+            our dear and honored friend, have been enabled to exemplify their beauty and
+            their truth; for it is our firm conviction that the united powers of Europe,
+            with all their military array, could not accomplish what you have done,
+            through the medium of public opinion, for the overthrow of American
+            slavery.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"The glittering steel of the warrior, though steeped in the
+            tyrant's blood, would be weak when compared with a woman's pen dipped in the
+            milk of human kindness, and softened by the balm of Christian love. The words
+            that have drawn a tear from the eye of the noble, and moistened the dusky
+            cheek of the hardest sons of toil, shall sink into the heart and weaken the
+            grasp of the slaveholder, and crimson with a blush of shame many an American
+            citizen who has hitherto defended or countenanced by his silence this bitter
+            reproach on the character and constitution of his country.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"To the tender mercies of Him who died to save their immortal
+            souls we commend the downcast slaves for freedom and protection, and, in the
+            heart-cheering belief that you have been raised up as an honored instrument
+            in God's hand to hasten the glorious work of their emancipation, we crave
+            that his blessing, as well as the blessing of him that is ready to perish,
+            may abundantly rest upon you and yours. With sentiments of the highest esteem
+            and respect, dear madam, we affectionately subscribe ourselves your friends
+            and fellow-laborers."</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor
+            Stowe</span> was received with prolonged cheering. He said, "Besides the
+            right which I have, owing to the relationship subsisting between us, to
+            answer for the lady whom you have so honored, I may claim a still greater
+            right in my sympathy for her efforts. [Hear!] We are perfectly agreed in
+            every point with regard to the nature of slavery, and the best means of
+            getting rid of it. I have been frequently called on to address public
+            meetings since I have been on these shores, and though under circumstances of
+            great disadvantage, and generally with little time, if any, for preparation,
+            still the very great kindness which has been manifested to Mrs. Stowe and to
+            myself, and to our country, afflicted as it is with this great evil, has
+            enabled me to bear a burden which otherwise I should have found
+            insupportable. But of all the addresses we have received, kind and
+            considerate as they have all been, I doubt whether one has so completely
+            expressed the feelings and sympathies of our own hearts as the one we have
+            just heard. It is precisely the expressions of our own thoughts and feelings
+            on the whole subject of slavery. As this is probably the last time I shall
+            have an opportunity of addressing an audience in England, I wish briefly to
+            give you an outline of our views as to the best means of dealing with that
+            terrible subject of slavery, for in our country it is really terrible in its
+            power and influence. Were it not that Providence seems to be lifting a light
+            in the distance, I should be almost in despair. There is now a system of
+            causes at work which Providence designs should continue to work, until that
+            great curse is removed from the face of the earth. I believe that in dealing
+            with the subject of slavery, and the best means of removing it, the first
+            thing is to show the utter wrongfulness of the whole system. The great moral
+            ground is the chief and primary ground, and the one on which we should
+            always, and under all circumstances, insist. With regard to the work which
+            has created so much excitement, the great excellence of it morally is, that
+            it holds up fully and emphatically the extreme wrongfulness of the system,
+            while at the same time showing an entire Christian and forgiving spirit
+            towards those involved in it; and it is these two characteristics which, in
+            my opinion, have given it its great power. Till I read that book, I had never
+            seen any extensive work that satisfied me on those points. It does show, in
+            the most striking manner, the horrible wrongfulness of the system, and, at
+            the same time, it displays no bitterness, no unfairness, no unkindness, to
+            those involved in it. It is that which gives the work the greater power, for
+            where there is unfairness, those assailed take refuge behind it; while here
+            they have no such refuge. We should always aim, in assailing the system of
+            slavery, to awaken the consciences of those involved in it; for among
+            slaveholders there are all kinds of moral development, as among every other
+            class of people in the world. There are men of tender conscience, as well as
+            men of blunted conscience; men with moral sense, and men with no moral sense
+            whatever; some who have come into the system involuntarily, born in it, and
+            others who have come into it voluntarily. There is a moral nature in every
+            man, more or less developed; and according as it is developed we can, by
+            showing the wrong of a thing, bring one to abhor it. We have the testimony of
+            Christian clergymen in slave holding states, that the greater portion of the
+            Christian people there, and even many slaveholders, believe the system is
+            wrong; and it is only a matter of time, a question of delay, as to when they
+            shall perform their whole duty, and bring it to an end.<a
+            href="#note_9"><span class="footnoteref">9</span></a> One would believe that
+            when they saw a thing to be wrong, they would at once do right; but
+            prejudice, habit, interest, education, and a variety of influences check
+            their aspirations to what is right; but let us keep on pressing it upon their
+            consciences, and I believe their consciences will at length respond. Public
+            sentiment is more powerful than force, and it may be excited in many ways.
+            Conversation, the press, the platform, and the pulpit may all be used to
+            awaken the feeling of the people, and bring it to bear on this question. I
+            refer especially to the pulpit; for, if the church and the ministry are
+            silent, who is to speak for the dumb and the oppressed? The thing that has
+            borne on my mind with the most melancholy weight, and caused me most sorrow,
+            is the apparent apathy, the comparative silence, of the church on this
+            subject for the last twenty or five and twenty years in the United States.
+            Previous to that period it did speak, and with words of power; but,
+            unfortunately, it has not followed out those words by acts. The influence of
+            the system has come upon it, and brought it, for a long time, almost to
+            entire silence; but I hope we are beginning to speak again. We hear voices
+            here and there which will excite other voices, and I trust before long they
+            will bring all to speak the same thing on this subject, so that the
+            conscience of the whole nation may be aroused. There is another method of
+            dealing with the subject, which is alluded to in the address, and also in the
+            resolution of the society, at Exeter Hall. It is the third resolution
+            proposed at that meeting, and I will read it, and make some comments as I
+            proceed. It begins, 'That, with a view to the correction of public sentiment
+            on this subject in slaveholding communities, it is of the first importance
+            that those who are earnest in condemnation of slavery should observe
+            consistency, and, therefore, that it is their duty to encourage the
+            development of the natural resources of countries where slavery does not
+            exist, and the soil of which is adapted to the growth of products, especially
+            cotton, now partially or chiefly raised by slave labor.' Now, I concur with
+            this most entirely, and would refer you to countries where cotton can be
+            grown even in your own dominions&mdash;in India, Australia, British Guiana,
+            and parts of Africa. But it can be raised by free labor in the United States,
+            and indeed it is already raised there by free labor to a considerable extent;
+            and, provided the plan were more encouraged, it could be raised more
+            abundantly. The resolution goes on to say, 'And though the extinction of
+            slavery is less to be expected from a diminished demand for slave produce
+            than from the moral effects of a steadfast abhorrence of slavery, and from an
+            unwavering and consistent opposition to it,' &amp;c. Now, my own feelings on
+            that subject are not quite so hopeless as here expressed, and it seems to me
+            that you are not aware of the extent to which free labor may come into
+            competition with slave labor. I know several instances, in the most
+            slaveholding states, in which slave labor has been displaced, and free labor
+            substituted in its stead. The weakness of slavery consists in the expense of
+            the slaves, the great capital to be invested in their purchase before any
+            work can be performed, and the constant danger of loss by death or escape.
+            When the Chinese emigrants from the eastern portion of their empire came to
+            the North-western States, their labor was found much cheaper and better than
+            that of slaves. I therefore hope there may be a direct influence from this
+            source, as well as the indirect influence contemplated by the resolution. At
+            all events, it is an encouragement to those who wish the extinction of
+            slavery to keep their eyes open, and assist the process by all the means in
+            their power. The resolution proceeds: 'This meeting would earnestly
+            recommend, in all cases where it is practicable, that a decided preference
+            should be given to the products of free labor by all who enter their protest
+            against slavery, so that at least they themselves may be clear of any
+            participation in the guilt of the system, and be thus morally strengthened in
+            their condemnation of it.' To that there can be no objection; but still the
+            state of society is such that we cannot at once dispense with all the
+            products of slave labor. We may, however, be doing what we
+            can&mdash;examining the ways and methods by which this end may be brought
+            about; and, at all events, we need not be deterred from self-denial, nor
+            shrink before minor obstacles. If with foresight we participate in the
+            encouragement of slave labor, we must hold ourselves guilty, in no
+            unimportant sense, of sustaining the system of slavery. I will illustrate my
+            argument by a very simple method. Suppose two ships arrive laden with silks
+            of the same quality, but one a pirate ship, in which the goods have been
+            obtained by robbery, and the other by honest trade. The pirate sells his
+            silks twenty per cent. cheaper than the honest trader: you go to him, and
+            declaim against his dishonesty; but because you can get silks cheaper of him,
+            you buy of him. Would he think you sincere in your denunciations of his
+            plundering his fellow-creatures, or would you exert any influence on him to
+            make him abandon his dishonest practices? I can, however, put another case in
+            which this inconsistency might, perhaps, be unavoidable. Suppose we were in
+            famine or great necessity, and we wished to obtain provisions for our
+            suffering families: suppose, too, there was a certain man with provisions,
+            who, we knew, had come by them dishonestly, but we had no other resource than
+            to purchase of him. In that case we should be justified in purchasing of him,
+            and should not participate in the guilt of the robbery. But still, however
+            great our necessity, we are not justified in refusing to examine the subject,
+            and in discouraging those who are endeavoring to set the thing on the right
+            ground. That is all I wish, and all the resolution contemplates; and,
+            happily, I find that that also is what was implied in the address. I may
+            mention one other method alluded to in the address, and that is prayer to
+            Almighty God. This ought to be, and must be, a religious enterprise. It is
+            impossible for any man to contemplate slavery as it is without feeling
+            intense indignation; and unless he have his heart near to God, and unless he
+            be a man of prayer and devotional spirit, bad passions will arise, and to a
+            very great extent neutralize his efforts to do good. How do you suppose such
+            a religious feeling has been preserved in the book to which the address
+            refers? Because it was written amid prayer from the beginning; and it is only
+            by a constant exercise of the religious spirit that the good it had effected
+            has been accomplished in the way it has. There is one more subject to which I
+            would allude, and that is unity among those who desire to emancipate the
+            slave. I mean a good understanding and unity of feeling among the opponents
+            of slavery. What gives slavery its great strength in the United States? There
+            are only about three hundred thousand slaveholders in the United States out
+            of the whole twenty-five millions of its population, and yet they hold the
+            entire power over the nation. That is owing to their unbroken unity on that
+            one matter, however much, and however fiercely, they may contend among
+            themselves on others. As soon as the subject of slavery comes up, they are of
+            one heart, of one voice, and of one mind, while their opponents unhappily
+            differ, and assail each other when they ought to be assailing the great enemy
+            alone. Why can they not work together, so far as they are agreed, and let
+            those points on which they disagree be waived for the time? In the midst of
+            the battle let them sink their differences, and settle them after the victory
+            is won. I was happy to find at the great meeting of the Peace Society that
+            that course has been adopted. They are not all of one mind on the details of
+            the question, but they are of one mind on the great principle of diffusing
+            peace doctrines among the great nations of Europe. I therefore say, let all
+            the friends of the slave work together until the great work of his
+            emancipation is accomplished, and then they will have time to discuss their
+            differences, though I believe by that time they will all think alike. I thank
+            you sincerely for the kindness you have expressed towards my country, and for
+            the philanthropy you have manifested, and I hope all has been done in such a
+            Christian spirit that every Christian feeling on the other side of the
+            Atlantic will be compelled to respond to it."</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_17" name="toc_17"></a>
+            <h3 class="dgp">Concluding Note.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent">Since the preceding addresses were delivered, the aspect
+            of things among us has been greatly changed. It is just as was predicted by
+            the sagacious Lord Cockburn, at the meeting in Edinburgh, (see page xxvi.)
+            The spirit of slavery, stimulated to madness by the indignation of the
+            civilized world, in its frenzy bids defiance to God and man, and is
+            determined to make itself respected by enlisting into its service the entire
+            wealth, and power, and political influence of this great nation. Its
+            encroachments are becoming so enormous, and its progress so rapid, that it is
+            now a conflict for the freedom of the citizens rather than for the
+            emancipation of the slaves. The reckless faithlessness and impudent falsehood
+            of our national proslavery legislation, the present season, has scarcely a
+            parallel in history, black as history is with all kinds of perfidy. If the
+            men who mean to be free do not now arise in their strength and shake off the
+            incubus which is strangling and crushing them, they deserve to be slaves, and
+            they will be.</p>
+            <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right">C.E.S.</p>
+          </div>
+        </div>
+      </div>
+      <div class="body">
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <h2 class="dgp">Sunny Memories of Foreign Lands</h2>
+        </div>
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_18" name="toc_18"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter I</h2>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image1.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">Liverpool</span>, April 11, 1853.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          Children</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">You wish, first of all, to hear of the voyage. Let me assure
+          you, my dears, in the very commencement of the matter, that going to sea is not
+          at all the thing that we have taken it to be.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">You know how often we have longed for a sea voyage, as the
+          fulfilment of all our dreams of poetry and romance, the realization of our
+          highest conceptions of free, joyous existence.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">You remember our ship-launching parties in Maine, when we used
+          to ride to the seaside through dark pine forests, lighted up with the gold,
+          scarlet, and orange tints of autumn. What exhilaration there was, as those
+          beautiful inland bays, one by one, unrolled like silver ribbons before us! and
+          how all our sympathies went forth with the grand new ship about to be launched!
+          How graceful and noble a thing she looked, as she sprang from the shore to the
+          blue waters, like a human soul springing from life into immortality! How all
+          our feelings went with her! how we longed to be with her, and a part of
+          her&mdash;to go with her to India, China, or any where, so that we might rise
+          and fall on the bosom of that magnificent ocean, and share a part of that
+          glorified existence! That ocean! that blue, sparkling, heaving, mysterious
+          ocean, with all the signs and wonders of heaven emblazoned on its bosom, and
+          another world of mystery hidden beneath its waters! Who would not long to enjoy
+          a freer communion, and rejoice in a prospect of days spent in unreserved
+          fellowship with its grand and noble nature?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Alas! what a contrast between all this poetry and the real prose
+          fact of going to sea! No man, the proverb says, is a hero to his valet de
+          chambre. Certainly, no poet, no hero, no inspired prophet, ever lost so much on
+          near acquaintance as this same mystic, grandiloquent old Ocean. The one step
+          from the sublime to the ridiculous is never taken with such alacrity as in a
+          sea voyage.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the first place, it is a melancholy fact, but not the less
+          true, that ship life is not at all fragrant; in short, particularly on a
+          steamer, there is a most mournful combination of grease, steam, onions, and
+          dinners in general, either past, present, or to come, which, floating invisibly
+          in the atmosphere, strongly predisposes to that disgust of existence, which, in
+          half an hour after sailing, begins to come upon you; that disgust, that
+          strange, mysterious, ineffable sensation which steals slowly and inexplicably
+          upon you; which makes every heaving billow, every white-capped wave, the ship,
+          the people, the sight, taste, sound, and smell of every thing a matter of
+          inexpressible loathing! Man cannot utter it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is really amusing to watch the gradual progress of this
+          epidemic; to see people stepping on board in the highest possible feather,
+          alert, airy, nimble, parading the deck, chatty and conversable, on the best
+          possible terms with themselves and mankind generally; the treacherous ship,
+          meanwhile, undulating and heaving in the most graceful rises and pauses
+          imaginable, like some voluptuous waltzer; and then to see one after another
+          yielding to the mysterious spell!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Your poet launches forth, "full of sentiment sublime as
+          billows," discoursing magnificently on the color of the waves and the glory of
+          the clouds; but gradually he grows white about the mouth, gives sidelong looks
+          towards the stairway; at last, with one desperate plunge, he sets, to rise no
+          more!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here sits a stout gentleman, who looks as resolute as an oak
+          log. "These things are much the effect of imagination," he tells you; "a little
+          self-control and resolution," &amp;c. Ah me! it is delightful, when these
+          people, who are always talking about resolution, get caught on shipboard. As
+          the backwoodsman said to the Mississippi River, about the steamboat, they "get
+          their match." Our stout gentleman sits a quarter of an hour, upright as a palm
+          tree, his back squared against the rails, pretending to be reading a paper; but
+          a dismal look of disgust is settling down about his lips; the old sea and his
+          will are evidently having a pitched battle. Ah, ha! there he goes for the
+          stairway; says he has left a book in the cabin, but shoots by with a most
+          suspicious velocity. You may fancy his finale.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then, of course, there are young ladies,&mdash;charming
+          creatures,&mdash;who, in about ten minutes, are going to die, and are sure they
+          shall die, and don't care if they do; whom anxious papas, or brothers, or
+          lovers consign with all speed to those dismal lower regions, where the brisk
+          chambermaid, who has been expecting them, seems to think their agonies and
+          groans a regular part of the play.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I had come on board thinking, in my simplicity, of a fortnight
+          to be spent something like the fortnight on a trip to New Orleans, on one of
+          our floating river palaces; that we should sit in our state rooms, read, sew,
+          sketch, and chat; and accordingly I laid in a magnificent provision in the way
+          of literature and divers matters of fancy work, with which to while away the
+          time. Some last, airy touches, in the way of making up bows, disposing ribbons,
+          and binding collarets, had been left to these long, leisure hours, as matters
+          of amusement.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Let me warn you, if you ever go to sea, you may as well omit all
+          such preparations. Don't leave so much as the unlocking of a trunk to be done
+          after sailing. In the few precious minutes when the ship stands still, before
+          she weighs her anchor, set your house, that is to say, your state room, as much
+          in order as if you were going to be hanged; place every thing in the most
+          convenient position to be seized without trouble at a moment's notice; for be
+          sure that in half an hour after sailing an infinite desperation will seize you,
+          in which the grasshopper will be a burden. If any thing is in your trunk, it
+          might almost as well be in the sea, for any practical probability of your
+          getting to it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Moreover, let your toilet be eminently simple, for you will find
+          the time coming when to button a cuff or arrange a ruff will be a matter of
+          absolute despair. You lie disconsolate in your berth, only desiring to be let
+          alone to die; and then, if you are told, as you always are, that "you mustn't
+          give way," that "you must rouse yourself" and come on deck, you will appreciate
+          the value of simple attire. With every thing in your berth dizzily swinging
+          backwards and forwards, your bonnet, your cloak, your tippet, your gloves, all
+          present so many discouraging impossibilities; knotted strings cannot be untied,
+          and modes of fastening which seemed curious and convenient, when you had
+          nothing else to do but fasten them, now look disgustingly impracticable.
+          Nevertheless, your fate for the whole voyage depends upon your rousing yourself
+          to get upon deck at first; to give up, then, is to be condemned to the Avernus,
+          the Hades of the lower regions, for the rest of the voyage.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Ah, <em>those</em> lower regions!&mdash;the saloons&mdash;every
+          couch and corner filled with prostrate, despairing forms, with pale cheeks,
+          long, willowy hair and sunken eyes, groaning, sighing, and apostrophizing the
+          Fates, and solemnly vowing between every lurch of the ship, that "you'll never
+          catch them going to sea again, that's what you won't;" and then the bulletins
+          from all the state rooms&mdash;"Mrs. A. is sick, and Miss B. sicker, and Miss
+          C. almost dead, and Mrs. E., F., and G. declare that they shall give up." This
+          threat of "giving up" is a standing resort of ladies in distressed
+          circumstances; it is always very impressively pronounced, as if the result of
+          earnest purpose; but how it is to be carried out practically, how ladies
+          <em>do</em> give up, and what general impression is made on creation when they
+          do, has never yet appeared. Certainly the sea seems to care very little about
+          the threat, for he goes on lurching all hands about just as freely afterwards
+          as before.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There are always some three or four in a hundred who escape all
+          these evils. They are not sick, and they seem to be having a good time
+          generally, and always meet you with "What a charming run we are having! Isn't
+          it delightful?" and so on. If you have a turn for being disinterested, you can
+          console your miseries by a view of their joyousness. Three or four of our
+          ladies were of this happy order, and it was really refreshing to see them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">For my part, I was less fortunate. I could not and would not
+          give up and become one of the ghosts below, and so I managed, by keeping on
+          deck and trying to act as if nothing was the matter, to lead a very uncertain
+          and precarious existence, though with a most awful undertone of emotion, which
+          seemed to make quite another thing of creation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I wonder that people who wanted to break the souls of heroes and
+          martyrs never thought of sending them to sea and keeping them a little seasick.
+          The dungeons of Olmutz, the leads of Venice, in short, all the naughty, wicked
+          places that tyrants ever invented for bringing down the spirits of heroes, are
+          nothing to the berth of a ship. Get Lafayette, Kossuth, or the noblest of
+          woman, born, prostrate in a swinging, dizzy berth of one of these sea coops,
+          called state rooms, and I'll warrant almost any compromise might be got out of
+          them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Where in the world the soul goes to under such influences nobody
+          knows; one would really think the sea tipped it all out of a man, just as it
+          does the water out of his wash basin. The soul seems to be like one of the
+          genii enclosed in a vase, in the Arabian Nights; now, it rises like a pillar of
+          cloud, and floats over land and sea, buoyant, many-hued, and glorious; again,
+          it goes down, down, subsiding into its copper vase, and the cover is clapped
+          on, and there you are. A sea voyage is the best device for getting the soul
+          back into its vase that I know of.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">But at night!&mdash;the beauties of a night on
+          shipboard!&mdash;down in your berth, with the sea hissing and fizzing, gurgling
+          and booming, within an inch of your ear; and then the steward conies along at
+          twelve o'clock and puts out your light, and there you are! Jonah in the whale
+          was not darker or more dismal. There, in profound ignorance and blindness, you
+          lie, and feel yourself rolled upwards, and downwards, and sidewise, and all
+          ways, like a cork in a tub of water; much such a sensation as one might suppose
+          it to be, were one headed up in a barrel and thrown into the sea.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Occasionally a wave comes with a thump against your ear, as if a
+          great hammer were knocking on your barrel, to see that all within was safe and
+          sound. Then you begin to think of krakens, and sharks, and porpoises, and sea
+          serpents, and all the monstrous, slimy, cold, hobgoblin brood, who, perhaps,
+          are your next door neighbors; and the old blue-haired Ocean whispers through
+          the planks, "Here you are; I've got you. Your grand ship is my plaything. I can
+          do what I like with it."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then you hear every kind of odd noise in the
+          ship&mdash;creaking, straining, crunching, scraping, pounding, whistling,
+          blowing off steam, each of which to your unpractised ear is significant of some
+          impending catastrophe; you lie wide awake, listening with all your might, as if
+          your watching did any good, till at last sleep overcomes you, and the morning
+          light convinces you that nothing very particular has been the matter, and that
+          all these frightful noises are only the necessary attendants of what is called
+          a good run.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our voyage out was called "a good run." It was voted,
+          unanimously, to be "an extraordinarily good passage," "a pleasant voyage;" yet
+          the ship rocked the whole time from side to side with a steady, dizzy,
+          continuous motion, like a great cradle. I had a new sympathy for babies, poor
+          little things, who are rocked hours at a time without so much as a "by your
+          leave" in the case. No wonder there are so many stupid people in the world.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is no place where killing time is so much of a systematic
+          and avowed object as in one of these short runs. In a six months' voyage people
+          give up to their situation, and make arrangements to live a regular life; but
+          the ten days that now divide England and America are not long enough for any
+          thing. The great question is how to get them off; they are set up, like
+          tenpins, to be bowled at; and happy he whose ball prospers. People with strong
+          heads, who can stand the incessant swing of the boat, may read or write. Then
+          there is one's berth, a never-failing resort, where one may analyze at one's
+          leisure the life and emotions of an oyster in the mud. Walking the deck is a
+          means of getting off some half hours more. If a ship heaves in sight, or a
+          porpoise tumbles up, or, better still, a whale spouts, it makes an immense
+          sensation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our favorite resort is by the old red smoke pipe of the steamer,
+          which rises warm and luminous as a sort of tower of defence. The wind must blow
+          an uncommon variety of ways at once when you cannot find a sheltered side, as
+          well as a place to warm your feet. In fact, the old smoke pipe is the domestic
+          hearth of the ship; there, with the double convenience of warmth and fresh air,
+          you can sit by the railing, and, looking down, command the prospect of the
+          cook's offices, the cow house, pantries, &amp;c.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our cook has specially interested me&mdash;a tall, slender,
+          melancholy man, with a watery-blue eye, a patient, dejected visage, like an
+          individual weary of the storms and commotions of life, and thoroughly impressed
+          with the vanity of human wishes. I sit there hour after hour watching him, and
+          it is evident that he performs all his duties in this frame of sad composure.
+          Now I see him resignedly stuffing a turkey, anon compounding a sauce, or
+          mournfully making little ripples in the crust of a tart; but all is done under
+          an evident sense that it is of no use trying.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Many complaints have been made of our coffee since we have been
+          on board, which, to say the truth, has been as unsettled as most of the social
+          questions of our day, and, perhaps, for that reason quite as generally
+          unpalatable; but since I have seen our cook, I am quite persuaded that the
+          coffee, like other works of great artists, has borrowed the hues of its maker's
+          mind. I think I hear him soliloquize over it&mdash;"To what purpose is
+          coffee?&mdash;of what avail tea?&mdash;thick or clear?&mdash;all is passing
+          away&mdash;a little egg, or fish skin, more or less, what are they?" and so we
+          get melancholy coffee and tea, owing to our philosophic cook.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After dinner I watch him as he washes dishes: he hangs up a
+          whole row of tin; the ship gives a lurch, and knocks them all down. He looks as
+          if it was just what he expected. "Such is life!" he says, as he pursues a
+          frisky tin pan in one direction, and arrests the gambols of the ladle in
+          another; while the wicked sea, meanwhile, with another lurch, is upsetting all
+          his dishwater. I can see how these daily trials, this performing of most
+          delicate and complicated gastronomic operations in the midst of such unsteady,
+          unsettled circumstances, have gradually given this poor soul a despair of
+          living, and brought him into this state of philosophic melancholy. Just as
+          Xantippe made a sage of Socrates, this whisky, frisky, stormy ship life has
+          made a sage of our cook. Meanwhile, not to do him injustice, let it be
+          recorded, that in all dishes which require grave conviction and steady
+          perseverance, rather than hope and inspiration, he is eminently successful. Our
+          table excels in viands of a reflective and solemn character; mighty rounds of
+          beef, vast saddles of mutton, and the whole tribe of meats in general, come on
+          in a superior style. English plum pudding, a weighty and serious performance,
+          is exhibited in first-rate order. The jellies want lightness,&mdash;but that is
+          to be expected.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I admire the thorough order and system with which every thing is
+          done on these ships. One day, when the servants came round, as they do at a
+          certain time after dinner, and screwed up the shelf of decanters and bottles
+          out of our reach, a German gentleman remarked, "Ah, that's always the way on
+          English ships; every thing done at such a time, without saying 'by your leave,'
+          If it had been on an American ship now, he would have said, 'Gentlemen, are you
+          ready to have this shelf raised?'"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">No doubt this remark is true and extends to a good many other
+          things; but in a ship in the middle of the ocean, when the least confusion or
+          irregularity in certain cases might be destruction to all on board, it does
+          inspire confidence to see that there is even in the minutest things a strong
+          and steady system, that goes on without saying "by your leave." Even the
+          rigidness with which lights are all extinguished at twelve o'clock, though it
+          is very hard in some cases, still gives you confidence in the watchfulness and
+          care with which all on board is conducted.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On Sunday there was a service. We went into the cabin, and saw
+          prayer books arranged at regular intervals, and soon a procession of the
+          sailors neatly dressed filed in and took their places, together with such
+          passengers as felt disposed, and the order of morning prayer was read. The
+          sailors all looked serious and attentive. I could not but think that this
+          feature of the management of her majesty's ships was a good one, and worthy of
+          imitation. To be sure, one can say it is only a form. Granted; but is not a
+          serious, respectful <em>form</em> of religion better than nothing? Besides, I
+          am not willing to think that these intelligent-looking sailors could listen to
+          all those devout sentiments expressed in the prayers, and the holy truths
+          embodied in the passages of Scripture, and not gain something from it. It is
+          bad to have only <em>the form</em> of religion, but not so bad as to have
+          neither the form nor the fact.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When the ship has been out about eight days, an evident
+          bettering of spirits and condition obtains among the passengers. Many of the
+          sick ones take heart, and appear again among the walks and ways of men; the
+          ladies assemble in little knots, and talk of getting on shore. The more knowing
+          ones, who have travelled before, embrace this opportunity to show their
+          knowledge of life by telling the new hands all sorts of hobgoblin stories about
+          the custom house officers and the difficulties of getting landed in England. It
+          is a curious fact, that old travellers generally seem to take this particular
+          delight in striking consternation into younger ones.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"You'll have all your daguerreotypes taken away," says one lady,
+          who, in right of having crossed the ocean nine times, is entitled to speak
+          <em>ex cathedra</em> on the subject.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"All our daguerreotypes!" shriek four or five at once. "Pray
+          tell, what for?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"They <em>will</em> do it," says the knowing lady, with an awful
+          nod; "unless you hide them, and all your books, they'll burn up&mdash;"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Burn our books!" exclaim the circle. "O, dreadful! What do they
+          do that for?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"They're very particular always to burn up all your books. I
+          knew a lady who had a dozen burned," says the wise one.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Dear me! will they take our <em>dresses</em>?" says a young
+          lady, with increasing alarm.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"No, but they'll pull every thing out, and tumble them well
+          over, I can tell you."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"How horrid!"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">An old lady, who has been very sick all the way, is revived by
+          this appalling intelligence.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I hope they won't tumble over my <em>caps!</em>" she
+          exclaims.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Yes, they will have every thing out on deck," says the lady,
+          delighted with the increasing sensation. "I tell you you don't know these
+          custom house officers."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"It's too bad!" "It's dreadful!" "How horrid!" exclaim all.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I shall put my best things in my pocket," exclaims one. "They
+          don't search our pockets, do they?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Well, no, not here; but I tell you they'll search your
+          <em>pockets</em> at Antwerp and Brussels," says the lady.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Somebody catches the sound, and flies off into the state rooms
+          with the intelligence that "the custom house officers are so
+          dreadful&mdash;they rip open your trunks, pull out all your things, burn your
+          books, take away your daguerreotypes, and even search your pockets;" and a row
+          of groans is heard ascending from the row of state rooms, as all begin to
+          revolve what they have in their trunks, and what they are to do in this
+          emergency.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Pray tell me," said I to a gentlemanly man, who had crossed
+          four or five times, "is there really so much annoyance at the custom
+          house?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Annoyance, ma'am? No, not the slightest."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"But do they really turn out the contents of the trunks, and
+          take away people's daguerreotypes, and burn their books?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Nothing of the kind, ma'am. I apprehend no difficulty. I never
+          had any. There are a few articles on which duty is charged. I have a case of
+          cigars, for instance; I shall show them to the custom house officer, and pay
+          the duty. If a person seems disposed to be fair, there is no difficulty. The
+          examination of ladies' trunks is merely nominal; nothing is deranged."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">So it proved. We arrived on Sunday morning; the custom house
+          officers, very gentlemanly men, came on board; our luggage was all set out, and
+          passed through a rapid examination, which in many cases amounted only to
+          opening the trunk and shutting it, and all was over. The whole ceremony did not
+          occupy two hours.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">So ends this letter. You shall hear further how we landed at
+          some future time.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_19" name="toc_19"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter II</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear
+          Father</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was on Sunday morning that we first came in sight of land.
+          The day was one of a thousand&mdash;clear, calm, and bright. It is one of those
+          strange, throbbing feelings, that come only once in a while in life; this
+          waking up to find an ocean crossed and long-lost land restored again in another
+          hemisphere; something like what we should suppose might be the thrill of
+          awakening from life to immortality, and all the wonders of the world unknown.
+          That low, green line of land in the horizon is Ireland; and we, with water
+          smooth as a lake and sails furled, are running within a mile of the shore.
+          Every body on deck, full of spirits and expectation, busy as can be looking
+          through spyglasses, and exclaiming at every object on shore,&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Look! there's Skibareen, where the worst of the famine was,"
+          says one.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Look! that's a ruined Martello tower," says another.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We new voyagers, who had never seen any ruin more imposing than
+          that of a cow house, and, of course, were ravenous for old towers, were now
+          quite wide awake, but were disappointed to learn that these were only custom
+          house rendezvous. Here is the county of Cork. Some one calls out,&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"There is O'Connell's house;" and a warm dispute ensues whether
+          a large mansion, with a stone chapel by it, answers to that name. At all events
+          the region looks desolate enough, and they say the natives of it are almost
+          savages. A passenger remarks, that "O'Connell never really did any thing for
+          the Irish, but lived on his capacity for exciting their enthusiasm." Thereupon
+          another expresses great contempt for the Irish who could be so taken in.
+          Nevertheless, the capability of a disinterested enthusiasm is, on the whole, a
+          nobler property of a human being than a shrewd self-interest. I like the Irish
+          all the better for it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now we pass Kinsale lighthouse; there is the spot where the
+          Albion was wrecked. It is a bare, frowning cliff, with walls of rock rising
+          perpendicularly out of the sea. Now, to be sure, the sea smiles and sparkles
+          around the base of it, as gently as if it never could storm; yet under other
+          skies, and with a fierce south-east wind, how the waves would pour in here! Woe
+          then to the distressed and rudderless vessel that drifts towards those fatal
+          rocks! This gives the outmost and boldest view of the point.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image2.png"
+          alt="View East of Kinsale." /></p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center">View East of Kinsale.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Albion struck just round the left of the point, where the
+          rock rises perpendicularly out of the sea. I well remember, when a child, of
+          the newspapers being filled with the dreadful story of the wreck of the ship
+          Albion&mdash;how for hours, rudderless and helpless, they saw themselves
+          driving with inevitable certainty against these pitiless rocks; and how, in the
+          last struggle, one human being after another was dashed against them in
+          helpless agony.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">What an infinite deal of misery results from man's helplessness
+          and ignorance and nature's inflexibility in this one matter of crossing the
+          ocean! What agonies of prayer there were during all the long hours that this
+          ship was driving straight on to these fatal rocks, all to no purpose! It struck
+          and crushed just the same. Surely, without the revelation of God in Jesus, who
+          could believe in the divine goodness? I do not wonder the old Greeks so often
+          spoke of their gods as cruel, and believed the universe was governed by a
+          remorseless and inexorable fate. Who would come to any other conclusion, except
+          from the pages of the Bible?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">But we have sailed far past Kinsale point. Now blue and shadowy
+          loom up the distant form of the Youghal Mountains, (pronounced <em>Yoole</em>.)
+          The surface of the water is alive with fishing boats, spreading their white
+          wings and skimming about like so many moth millers.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">About nine o'clock we were crossing the sand bar, which lies at
+          the mouth of the Mersey River, running up towards Liverpool. Our signal
+          pennants are fluttering at the mast head, pilot full of energy on one wheel
+          house, and a man casting the lead on the other.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"By the mark, five," says the man. The pilot, with all his
+          energy, is telegraphing to the steersman. This is a very close and complicated
+          piece of navigation, I should think, this running up the Mersey, for every
+          moment we are passing some kind of a signal token, which warns off from some
+          shoal. Here is a bell buoy, where the waves keep the bell always tolling; here,
+          a buoyant lighthouse; and "See there, those shoals, how pokerish they look!"
+          says one of the passengers, pointing to the foam on our starboard bow. All is
+          bustle, animation, exultation. Now float out the American stars and stripes on
+          our bow.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before us lies the great city of Liverpool. No old Cathedral, no
+          castles, a real New Yorkish place.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"There, that's the fort," cries one. Bang, bang, go the two guns
+          from our forward gangway.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I wonder if they will fire from the fort," says another.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"How green that grass looks!" says a third; "and what pretty
+          cottages!"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"All modern, though," says somebody, in tones of disappointment.
+          Now we are passing the Victoria Dock. Bang, bang, again. We are in a forest of
+          ships of all nations; their masts bristling like the tall pines in Maine; their
+          many colored flags streaming like the forest leaves in autumn.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Hark," says one; "there's, a chime of bells from the city; how
+          sweet! I had quite forgotten it was Sunday."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here we cast anchor, and the small steam tender conies puffing
+          alongside. Now for the custom house officers. State rooms, holds, and cabins
+          must all give up their trunks; a general muster among the baggage, and
+          passenger after passenger comes forward as their names are called, much as
+          follows: "Snooks." "Here, sir." "Any thing contraband here, Mr. Snooks? Any
+          cigars, tobacco, &amp;c.?" "Nothing, sir."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A little unlocking, a little fumbling. "Shut up; all right;
+          ticket here." And a little man pastes on each article a slip of paper, with the
+          royal arms of England and the magical letters V.R., to remind all men that they
+          have come into a country where a lady reigns, and of course must behave
+          themselves as prettily as they can.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were inquiring of some friends for the most convenient hotel,
+          when we found the son of Mr. Cropper, of Dingle Bank, waiting in the cabin, to
+          take us with him to their hospitable abode. In a few moments after the baggage
+          had been examined, we all bade adieu to the old ship, and went on board the
+          little steam tender, which carries passengers up to the city.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This Mersey River would be a very beautiful one, if it were not
+          so dingy and muddy. As we are sailing up in the tender towards Liverpool, I
+          deplore the circumstance feelingly. "What does make this river so muddy?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"O," says a bystander, "don't you know that</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">'The quality of mercy is not strained'?"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">And now we are fairly alongside the shore, and we are soon
+          going to set our foot on the land of Old England.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Say what we will, an American, particularly a New Englander, can
+          never approach the old country without a kind of thrill and pulsation of
+          kindred. Its history for two centuries was our history. Its literature, laws,
+          and language are our literature, laws, and language. Spenser, Shakspeare,
+          Bacon, Milton, were a glorious inheritance, which we share in common. Our very
+          life-blood is English life-blood. It is Anglo-Saxon vigor that is spreading our
+          country from Atlantic to Pacific, and leading on a new era in the world's
+          development. America is a tall, sightly young shoot, that has grown from the
+          old royal oak of England; divided from its parent root, it has shot up in new,
+          rich soil, and under genial, brilliant skies, and therefore takes on a new type
+          of growth and foliage, but the sap in it is the same.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I had an early opportunity of making acquaintance with my
+          English brethren; for, much to my astonishment, I found quite a crowd on the
+          wharf, and we walked up to our carriage through a long lane of people, bowing,
+          and looking very glad to see us. When I came to get into the hack it was
+          surrounded by more faces than I could count. They stood very quietly, and
+          looked very kindly, though evidently very much determined to look. Something
+          prevented the hack from moving on; so the interview was prolonged for some
+          time. I therefore took occasion to remark the very fair, pure complexions, the
+          clear eyes, and the general air of health and vigor, which seem to characterize
+          our brethren and sisters of the island. There seemed to be no occasion to ask
+          them, how they did, as they were evidently quite well. Indeed, this air of
+          health is one of the most striking things when one lands in England.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">They were not burly, red-faced, and stout, as I had sometimes
+          conceived of the English people, but just full enough to suggest the idea of
+          vigor and health. The presence of so many healthy, rosy people looking at me,
+          all reduced as I was, first by land and then by sea sickness, made me feel
+          myself more withered and forlorn than ever. But there was an earnestness and a
+          depth of kind feeling in some of the faces, which I shall long remember. It
+          seemed as if I had not only touched the English shore, but felt the English
+          heart.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our carriage at last drove on, taking us through Liverpool, and
+          a mile or two out, and at length wound its way along the gravel paths of a
+          beautiful little retreat, on the banks of the Mersey, called the "Dingle." It
+          opened to my eyes like a paradise, all wearied as I was with the tossing of the
+          sea. I have since become familiar with these beautiful little spots, which are
+          so common in England; but now all was entirely new to me.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We rode by shining clumps of the Portugal laurel, a beautiful
+          evergreen, much resembling our mountain rhododendron; then there was the
+          prickly, polished, dark-green holly, which I had never seen before, but which
+          is, certainly, one of the most perfect of shrubs. The turf was of that soft,
+          dazzling green, and had that peculiar velvet-like smoothness, which seem
+          characteristic of England. We stopped at last before the door of a cottage,
+          whose porch was overgrown with ivy. From that moment I ceased to feel myself a
+          stranger in England. I cannot tell you how delightful to me, dizzy and weary as
+          I was, was the first sight of the chamber of reception which had been prepared
+          for us. No item of cozy comfort that one could desire was omitted. The sofa and
+          easy chair wheeled up before a cheerful coal fire, a bright little teakettle
+          steaming in front of the grate, a table with a beautiful vase of flowers,
+          books, and writing apparatus, and kind friends with words full of affectionate
+          cheer,&mdash;all these made me feel at home in a moment.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The hospitality of England has become famous in the world, and,
+          I think, with reason. I doubt not there is just as much hospitable feeling in
+          other countries; but in England the matter of coziness and home comfort has
+          been so studied, and matured, and reduced to system, that they really have it
+          in their power to effect more, towards making their guests comfortable, than
+          perhaps any other people.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After a short season allotted to changing our ship garments and
+          for rest, we found ourselves seated at the dinner table. While dining, the
+          sister-in-law of our friends came in from the next door, to exchange a word or
+          two of welcome, and invite us to breakfast with them the following morning.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Between all the excitements of landing, and meeting so many new
+          faces, and the remains of the dizzy motion of the ship, which still haunted me,
+          I found it impossible to close my eyes to sleep that first night till the dim
+          gray of dawn. I got up as soon as it was light, and looked out of the window;
+          and as my eyes fell on the luxuriant, ivy-covered porch, the clumps of shining,
+          dark-green holly bushes, I said to myself, "Ah, really, this is England!"</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image3.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">I never saw any plant that struck me as more beautiful than this
+          holly. It is a dense shrub growing from six to eight feet high, with a thickly
+          varnished leaf of green. The outline of the leaf is something like this. I do
+          not believe it can ever come to a state of perfect development under the fierce
+          alternations of heat and cold which obtain in our New England climate, though
+          it grows in the Southern States. It is one of the symbolical shrubs of England,
+          probably because its bright green in winter makes it so splendid a Christmas
+          decoration. A little bird sat twittering on one of the sprays. He had a bright
+          red breast, and seemed evidently to consider himself of good blood and family,
+          with the best reason, as I afterwards learned, since he was no other than the
+          identical robin redbreast renowned in song and story; undoubtedly a lineal
+          descendant of that very cock robin whose death and burial form so vivid a
+          portion of our childish literature.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I must tell you, then, as one of the first remarks on matters
+          and things here in England, that "robin redbreast" is not at all the fellow we
+          in America take him to be. The character who flourishes under that name among
+          us is quite a different bird; he is twice as large, and has altogether a
+          different air, and as he sits up with military erectness on a rail fence or
+          stump, shows not even a family likeness to his diminutive English namesake.
+          Well, of course, robin over here will claim to have the real family estate and
+          title, since he lives in a country where such matters are understood and looked
+          into. Our robin is probably some fourth cousin, who, like others, has struck
+          out a new course for himself in America, and thrives upon it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We hurried to dress, remembering our engagements to breakfast
+          this morning with a brother of our host, whose cottage stands on the same
+          ground, within a few steps of our own. I had not the slightest idea of what the
+          English mean by a breakfast, and therefore went in all innocence, supposing
+          that I should see nobody but the family circle of my acquaintances. Quite to my
+          astonishment, I found a party of between thirty and forty people. Ladies
+          sitting with their bonnets on, as in a morning call. It was impossible,
+          however, to feel more than a momentary embarrassment in the friendly warmth and
+          cordiality of the circle by whom we were surrounded.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The English are called cold and stiff in their manners; I had
+          always heard they were so, but I certainly saw nothing of it here. A circle of
+          family relatives could not have received us with more warmth and kindness. The
+          remark which I made mentally, as my eye passed around the circle,
+          was&mdash;Why, these people are just like home; they look like us, and the tone
+          of sentiment and feeling is precisely such as I have been accustomed to; I mean
+          with the exception of the antislavery question.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">That question has, from the very first, been, in England, a
+          deeply religious movement. It was conceived and carried on by men of devotional
+          habits, in the same spirit in which the work of foreign missions was undertaken
+          in our own country; by just such earnest, self-denying, devout men as Samuel J.
+          Mills and Jeremiah Evarts.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was encountered by the same contempt and opposition, in the
+          outset, from men of merely worldly habits and principles; and to this day it
+          retains that hold on the devotional mind of the English nation that the foreign
+          mission cause does in America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Liverpool was at first to the antislavery cause nearly what New
+          York has been with us. Its commercial interests were largely implicated in the
+          slave trade, and the virulence of opposition towards the first movers of the
+          antislavery reform in Liverpool was about as great as it is now against
+          abolitionists in Charleston.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When Clarkson first came here to prosecute his inquiries into
+          the subject, a mob collected around him, and endeavored to throw him off the
+          dock into the water; he was rescued by a gentleman, some of whose descendants I
+          met on this occasion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The father of our host, Mr. Cropper, was one of the first and
+          most efficient supporters of the cause in Liverpool; and the whole circle was
+          composed of those who had taken a deep interest in that struggle. The wife of
+          our host was the daughter of the celebrated Lord Chief Justice Denman, a man
+          who, for many years, stood unrivalled, at the head of the legal mind in
+          England, and who, with a generous ardor seldom equalled, devoted all his
+          energies to this sacred cause.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When the publication of Uncle Tom's Cabin turned the attention
+          of the British public to the existing horrors of slavery in America, some
+          palliations of the system appeared in English papers. Lord Denman, though then
+          in delicate health and advanced years, wrote a series of letters upon the
+          subject&mdash;an exertion which entirely prostrated his before feeble health.
+          In one of the addresses made at table, a very feeling allusion was made to Lord
+          Denman's labors, and also to those of the honored father of the two Messrs.
+          Cropper.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As breakfast parties are things which we do not have in America,
+          perhaps mother would like to know just how they are managed. The hour is
+          generally somewhere between nine and twelve, and the whole idea and spirit of
+          the thing is that of an informal and social gathering. Ladies keep their
+          bonnets on, and are not dressed in full toilet. On this occasion we sat and
+          chatted together socially till the whole party was assembled in the drawing
+          room, and then breakfast was announced. Each gentleman had a lady assigned him,
+          and we walked into the dining room, where stood the tables tastefully adorned
+          with flowers, and spread with an abundant cold collation, while tea and coffee
+          were passed round by servants. In each plate was a card, containing the name of
+          the person for whom it was designed. I took my place by the side of the Rev.
+          Dr. McNiel, one of the most celebrated clergymen of the established church in
+          Liverpool.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The conversation was flowing, free, and friendly. The old
+          reminiscences of the antislavery conflict in England were touchingly recalled,
+          and the warmest sympathy was expressed for those in America who are carrying on
+          the same cause.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In one thing I was most agreeably disappointed. I had been told
+          that the Christians of England were intolerant and unreasonable in their
+          opinions on this subject; that they could not be made to understand the
+          peculiar difficulties which beset it in America, and that they therefore made
+          no distinction and no allowance in their censures. All this I found, so far as
+          this circle were concerned, to be strikingly untrue. They appeared to be
+          peculiarly affectionate in their feelings as regarded our country; to have the
+          highest appreciation of, and the deepest sympathy with, our religious
+          community, and to be extremely desirous to assist us in our difficulties. I
+          also found them remarkably well informed upon the subject. They keep their eyes
+          upon our papers, our public documents and speeches in Congress, and are as well
+          advised in regard to the progress of the moral conflict as our Foreign
+          Missionary Society is with the state of affairs in Hindostan and Burmah.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Several present spoke of the part which England originally had
+          in planting slavery in America, as placing English Christians under a solemn
+          responsibility to bring every possible moral influence to bear for its
+          extinction. Nevertheless, they seem to be the farthest possible from an unkind
+          or denunciatory spirit, even towards those most deeply implicated. The remarks
+          made by Dr. McNiel to me were a fair sample of the spirit and attitude of all
+          present.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I have been trying, Mrs. S.," he said, "to bring my mind into
+          the attitude of those Christians at the south who defend the institution of
+          slavery. There are <em>real</em> Christians there who do this&mdash;are there
+          not?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I replied, that undoubtedly there were some most amiable and
+          Christian people who defend slavery on principle, just as there had been some
+          to defend every form of despotism.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Do give me some idea of the views they take; it is something to
+          me so inconceivable. I am utterly at a loss how it can be made in any way
+          plausible."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I then stated that the most plausible view, and that which
+          seemed to have the most force with good men, was one which represented the
+          institution of slavery as a sort of wardship or guardian relation, by which an
+          inferior race were brought under the watch and care of a superior race to be
+          instructed in Christianity.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">He then inquired if there was any system of religious
+          instruction actually pursued.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In reply to this, I gave him some sketch of the operations for
+          the religious instruction of the negroes, which had been carried on by the
+          Presbyterian and other denominations. I remarked that many good people who do
+          not take very extended views, fixing their attention chiefly on the efforts
+          which they are making for the religious instruction of slaves, are blind to the
+          sin and injustice of allowing their legal position to remain what it is.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"But how do they shut their eyes to the various cruelties of the
+          system,&mdash;the separation of families&mdash;the domestic slave trade?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I replied, "In part, by not inquiring into them. The best kind
+          of people are, in general, those who <em>know</em> least of the cruelties of
+          the system; they never witness them. As in the city of London or Liverpool
+          there may be an amount of crime and suffering which many residents may live
+          years without seeing or knowing, so it is in the slave states."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Every person present appeared to be in that softened and
+          charitable frame of mind which disposed them to make every allowance for the
+          situation of Christians so peculiarly tempted, while, at the same time, there
+          was the most earnest concern, in view of the dishonor brought upon Christianity
+          by the defence of such a system.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One other thing I noticed, which was an agreeable disappointment
+          to me. I had been told that there was no social intercourse between the
+          established church and dissenters. In this party, however, were people of many
+          different denominations. Our host belongs to the established church; his
+          brother, with whom we are visiting, is a Baptist, and their father was a
+          Friend; and there appeared to be the utmost social cordiality. Whether I shall
+          find this uniformly the case will appear in time.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After the breakfast party was over, I found at the door an array
+          of children of the poor, belonging to a school kept under the superintendence
+          of Mrs. E. Cropper, and called, as is customary here, a ragged school. The
+          children, however, were any thing but ragged, being tidily dressed, remarkably
+          clean, with glowing cheeks and bright eyes. I must say, so far as I have seen
+          them, English children have a much healthier appearance than those of America.
+          By the side of their bright bloom ours look pale and faded.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Another school of the same kind is kept in this neighborhood,
+          under the auspices of Sir George Stephen, a conspicuous advocate of the
+          antislavery cause.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I thought the fair patroness of this school seemed not a little
+          delighted with the appearance of her prot&eacute;g&eacute;s, as they sung, with
+          great enthusiasm, Jane Taylor's hymn, commencing,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"I thank the goodness and the grace</p>
+            <p class="l">That on my birth have smiled,</p>
+            <p class="l">And made me in these Christian days</p>
+            <p class="l">A happy English child."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">All the little rogues were quite familiar with Topsy and
+          Eva, and <em>au fait</em> in the fortunes of Uncle Tom; so that, being
+          introduced as the maternal relative of these characters, I seemed to find favor
+          in their eyes. And when one of the speakers congratulated them that they were
+          born in a land where no child could be bought or sold, they responded with
+          enthusiastic cheers&mdash;cheers which made me feel rather sad; but still I
+          could not quarrel with English people for taking all the pride and all the
+          comfort which this inspiriting truth can convey.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">They had a hard enough struggle in rooting up the old weed of
+          slavery, to justify them in rejoicing in their freedom. Well, the day will come
+          in America, as I trust, when as much can be said for us.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After the children were gone came a succession of calls; some
+          from very aged people, the veterans of the old antislavery cause. I was
+          astonished and overwhelmed by the fervor of feeling some of them manifested;
+          there seemed to be something almost prophetic in the enthusiasm with which they
+          expressed their hope of our final success in America. This excitement, though
+          very pleasant, was wearisome, and I was glad of an opportunity after dinner to
+          rest myself, by rambling uninterrupted, with my friends, through the beautiful
+          grounds of the Dingle.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Two nice little boys were my squires on this occasion, one of
+          whom, a sturdy little fellow, on being asked his name, gave it to me in full as
+          Joseph Babington Macaulay, and I learned that his mother, by a former marriage,
+          had been the wife of Macaulay's brother. Uncle Tom Macaulay, I found, was a
+          favorite character with the young people. Master Harry conducted me through the
+          walks to the conservatories, all brilliant with azaleas and all sorts of
+          flowers, and then through a long walk on the banks of the Mersey.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here the wild flowers attracted my attention, as being so
+          different from those of our own country. Their daisy is not our flower, with
+          its wide, plaited ruff and yellow centre. The English daisy is</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The wee modest crimson-tipped flower,"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">which Burns celebrates. It is what we raise in greenhouses,
+          and call the mountain daisy. Its effect, growing profusely about fields and
+          grass plats, is very beautiful.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image4.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">We read much, among the poets, of the primrose,</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Earliest daughter of the Spring."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">This flower is one, also, which we cultivate in gardens to
+          some extent. The outline of it is as follows: The hue a delicate straw color;
+          it grows in tufts in shady places, and has a pure, serious look, which reminds
+          one of the line of Shakspeare&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Pale primroses, which die unmarried."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image5.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">It has also the faintest and most ethereal perfume,&mdash;a
+          perfume that seems to come and go in the air like music; and you perceive it at
+          a little distance from a tuft of them, when you would not if you gathered and
+          smelled them. On the whole, the primrose is a poet's and a painter's flower. An
+          artist's eye would notice an exquisite harmony between the yellow-green hue of
+          its leaves and the tint of its blossoms. I do not wonder that it has been so
+          great a favorite among the poets. It is just such a flower as Mozart and
+          Raphael would have loved.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image6.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then there is the bluebell, a bulb, which also grows in deep
+          shades. It is a little purple bell, with a narrow green leaf, like a ribbon. We
+          often read in English stories, of the gorse and furze; these are two names for
+          the same plant, a low bush, with strong, prickly leaves, growing much like a
+          juniper. The contrast of its very brilliant yellow, pea-shaped blossoms, with
+          the dark green of its leaves, is very beautiful. It grows here in hedges and on
+          commons, and is thought rather a plebeian affair. I think it would make quite
+          an addition to our garden shrubbery. Possibly it might make as much sensation
+          with us as our mullein does in foreign greenhouses.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After rambling a while, we came to a beautiful summer house,
+          placed in a retired spot, so as to command a view of the Mersey River. I think
+          they told me that it was Lord Denman's favorite seat. There we sat down, and in
+          common with the young gentlemen and ladies of the family, had quite a pleasant
+          talk together. Among other things we talked about the question which is now
+          agitating the public mind a good deal,&mdash;Whether it is expedient to open
+          the Crystal Palace to the people on Sunday. They said that this course was much
+          urged by some philanthropists, on the ground that it was the only day when the
+          working classes could find any leisure to visit it, and that it seemed hard to
+          shut them out entirely from all the opportunities and advantages which they
+          might thus derive; that to exclude the laborer from recreation on the Sabbath,
+          was the same as saying that he should never have any recreation. I asked, why
+          the philanthropists could not urge employers to give their workmen a part of
+          Saturday for this purpose; as it seemed to me unchristian to drive trade so
+          that the laboring man had no time but Sunday for intellectual and social
+          recreation. We rather came to the conclusion that this was the right course;
+          whether the people of England will, is quite another matter.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The grounds of the Dingle embrace three cottages; those of the
+          two Messrs. Cropper, and that of a son, who is married to a daughter of Dr.
+          Arnold. I rather think this way of relatives living together is more common
+          here in England than it is in America; and there is more idea of home
+          permanence connected with the family dwelling-place than with us, where the
+          country is so wide, and causes of change and removal so frequent. A man builds
+          a house in England with the expectation of living in it and leaving it to his
+          children; while we shed our houses in America as easily as a snail does his
+          shell. We live a while in Boston, and then a while in New York, and then,
+          perhaps, turn up at Cincinnati. Scarcely any body with us is living where they
+          expect to live and die. The man that dies in the house he was born in is a
+          wonder. There is something pleasant in the permanence and repose of the English
+          family estate, which we, in America, know very little of. All which is apropos
+          to our having finished our walk, and got back to the ivy-covered porch
+          again.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next day at breakfast, it was arranged that we should take a
+          drive out to Speke Hall, an old mansion, which is considered a fine specimen of
+          ancient house architecture. So the carriage was at the door. It was a cool,
+          breezy, April morning, but there was an abundance of wrappers and carriage
+          blankets provided to keep us comfortable. I must say, by the by, that English
+          housekeepers are bountiful in their provision for carriage comfort. Every
+          household has a store of warm, loose over garments, which are offered, if
+          needed, to the guests; and each carriage is provided with one or two blankets,
+          manufactured and sold expressly for this use, to envelope one's feet and limbs;
+          besides all which, should the weather be cold, comes out a long stone
+          reservoir, made flat on both sides, and filled with hot water, for foot stools.
+          This is an improvement on the primitive simplicity of hot bricks, and even on
+          the tin foot stove, which has nourished in New England.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Being thus provided with all things necessary for comfort, we
+          rattled merrily away, and I, remembering that I was in England, kept my eyes
+          wide open to see what I could see. The hedges of the fields were just budding,
+          and the green showed itself on them, like a thin gauze veil. These hedges are
+          not all so well kept and trimmed as I expected to find them. Some, it is true,
+          are cut very carefully; these are generally hedges to ornamental grounds; but
+          many of those which separate the fields straggle and sprawl, and have some high
+          bushes and some low ones, and, in short, are no more like a hedge than many
+          rows of bushes that we have at home. But such as they are, they are the only
+          dividing lines of the fields, and it is certainly a more picturesque mode of
+          division than our stone or worm fences. Outside of every hedge, towards the
+          street, there is generally a ditch, and at the bottom of the hedge is the
+          favorite nestling-place for all sorts of wild flowers. I remember reading in
+          stories about children trying to crawl through a gap in the hedge to get at
+          flowers, and tumbling into a ditch on the other side, and I now saw exactly how
+          they could do it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we drive we pass by many beautiful establishments, about of
+          the quality of our handsomest country houses, but whose grounds are kept with a
+          precision and exactness rarely to be seen among us. We cannot get the gardeners
+          who are qualified to do it; and if we could, the painstaking, slow way of
+          proceeding, and the habit of creeping thoroughness, which are necessary to
+          accomplish such results, die out in America. Nevertheless, such grounds are
+          exceedingly beautiful to look upon, and I was much obliged to the owners of
+          these places for keeping their gates hospitably open, as seems to be the custom
+          here.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After a drive of seven or eight miles, we alighted in front of
+          Speke Hall. This house is a specimen of the old fortified houses of England,
+          and was once fitted up with a moat and drawbridge, all in approved feudal
+          style. It was built somewhere about the year 1500. The sometime moat was now
+          full of smooth, green grass, and the drawbridge no longer remains.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This was the first really old thing that we had seen since our
+          arrival in England. We came up first to a low, arched, stone door, and knocked
+          with a great old-fashioned knocker; this brought no answer but a treble and
+          bass duet from a couple of dogs inside; so we opened the door, and saw a square
+          court, paved with round stones, and a dark, solitary yew tree in the centre.
+          Here in England, I think, they have vegetable creations made on purpose to go
+          with old, dusky buildings; and this yew tree is one of them. It has altogether
+          a most goblin-like, bewitched air, with its dusky black leaves and ragged
+          branches, throwing themselves straight out with odd twists and angular lines,
+          and might put one in mind of an old raven with some of his feathers pulled out,
+          or a black cat with her hair stroked the wrong way, or any other strange,
+          uncanny thing. Besides this they live almost forever; for when they have grown
+          so old that any respectable tree ought to be thinking of dying, they only take
+          another twist, and so live on another hundred years. I saw some in England
+          seven hundred years old, and they had grown queerer every century. It is a
+          species of evergreen, and its leaf resembles our hemlock, only it is longer.
+          This sprig gives you some idea of its general form. It is always planted about
+          churches and graveyards; a kind of dismal emblem of immortality. This
+          sepulchral old tree and the bass and treble dogs were the only occupants of the
+          court. One of these, a great surly mastiff, barked out of his kennel on one
+          side, and the other, a little wiry terrier, out of his on the opposite side,
+          and both strained on their chains, as if they would enjoy making even more
+          decided demonstrations if they could.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image7.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">There was an aged, mossy fountain for holy water by the side of
+          the wall, in which some weeds were growing. A door in the house was soon opened
+          by a decent-looking serving woman, to whom we communicated our desire to see
+          the hall.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were shown into a large dining hall with a stone floor,
+          wainscoted with carved oak, almost as black as ebony. There were some pious
+          sentences and moral reflections inscribed in old English text, carved over the
+          doors, and like a cornice round the ceiling, which was also of carved oak.
+          Their general drift was, to say that life is short, and to call for
+          watchfulness and prayer. The fireplace of the hall yawned like a great cavern,
+          and nothing else, one would think, than a cart load of western sycamores could
+          have supplied an appropriate fire. A great two-handed sword of some ancestor
+          hung over the fireplace. On taking it down it reached to C&mdash;&mdash;'s
+          shoulder, who, you know, is six feet high.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went into a sort of sitting room, and looked out through a
+          window, latticed with little diamond panes, upon a garden wildly beautiful. The
+          lattice was all wreathed round with jessamines. The furniture of this room was
+          modern, and it seemed the more unique from its contrast with the old
+          architecture.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went up stairs to see the chambers, and passed through a
+          long, narrow, black oak corridor, whose slippery boards had the authentic
+          ghostly squeak to them. There was a chamber, hung with old, faded tapestry of
+          Scripture subjects. In this chamber there was behind the tapestry a door,
+          which, being opened, displayed a staircase, that led delightfully off to nobody
+          knows where. The furniture was black oak, carved, in the most elaborate manner,
+          with cherubs' heads and other good and solemn subjects, calculated to produce a
+          ghostly state of mind. And, to crown all, we heard that there was a haunted
+          chamber, which was not to be opened, where a white lady appeared and walked at
+          all approved hours.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now, only think what a foundation for a story is here. If our
+          Hawthorne could conjure up such a thing as the Seven Gables in one of our
+          prosaic country towns, what would he have done if he had lived here? Now he is
+          obliged to get his ghostly images by looking through smoked glass at our
+          square, cold realities; but one such old place as this is a standing romance.
+          Perhaps it may add to the effect to say, that the owner of the house is a
+          bachelor, who lives there very retired, and employs himself much in
+          reading.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The housekeeper, who showed us about, indulged us with a view of
+          the kitchen, whose snowy, sanded floor and resplendent polished copper and tin,
+          were sights for a housekeeper to take away in her heart of hearts. The good
+          woman produced her copy of Uncle Tom, and begged the favor of my autograph,
+          which I gave, thinking it quite a happy thing to be able to do a favor at so
+          cheap a rate.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After going over the house we wandered through the grounds,
+          which are laid out with the same picturesque mixture of the past and present.
+          There was a fine grove, under whose shadows we walked, picking primroses, and
+          otherwise enacting the poetic, till it was time to go. As we passed out, we
+          were again saluted with a <em>feu de joie</em> by the two fidelities at the
+          door, which we took in very good part, since it is always respectable to be
+          thorough in whatever you are set to do.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Coming home we met with an accident to the carriage which
+          obliged us to get out and walk some distance. I was glad enough of it, because
+          it gave me a better opportunity for seeing the country. We stopped at a cottage
+          to get some rope, and a young woman came out with that beautiful, clear
+          complexion which I so much admire here in England; literally her cheeks were
+          like damask roses.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I told Isa I wanted to see as much of the interior of the
+          cottages as I could; and so, as we were walking onward toward home, we managed
+          to call once or twice, on the excuse of asking the way and distance. The
+          exterior was very neat, being built of brick or stone, and each had attached to
+          it a little flower garden. Isa said that the cottagers often offered them a
+          slice of bread or tumbler of milk.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">They have a way here of building the cottages two or three in a
+          block together, which struck me as different from our New England manner,
+          where, in the country, every house stands detached.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening I went into Liverpool, to attend a party of
+          friends of the antislavery cause. In the course of the evening, Mr. Stowe was
+          requested to make some remarks. Among other things he spoke upon the support
+          the free part of the world give to slavery, by the purchase of the produce of
+          slave labor; and, in particular, on the great quantity of slave-grown cotton
+          purchased by England; suggesting it as a subject for inquiry, whether this
+          cannot be avoided.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One or two gentlemen, who are largely concerned in the
+          manufacture and importation of cotton, spoke to him on the subject afterwards,
+          and said it was a thing which ought to be very seriously considered. It is
+          probable that the cotton trade of Great Britain is the great essential item
+          which supports slavery, and such considerations ought not, therefore, to be
+          without their results.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When I was going away, the lady of the house said that the
+          servants were anxious to see me; so I came into the dressing room to give them,
+          an opportunity.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">While at Mr. C.'s, also, I had once or twice been called out to
+          see servants, who had come in to visit those of the family. All of them had
+          read Uncle Tom's Cabin, and were full of sympathy. Generally speaking, the
+          servants seem to me quite a superior class to what are employed in that
+          capacity with us. They look very intelligent, are dressed with great neatness,
+          and though their manners are very much more deferential than those of servants
+          in our country, it appears to be a difference arising quite as much from
+          self-respect and a sense of propriety as from servility. Every body's manners
+          are more deferential in England than in America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next day was appointed to leave Liverpool. It had been
+          arranged that, before leaving, we should meet the ladies of the Negroes' Friend
+          Society, an association formed at the time of the original antislavery
+          agitation in England. We went in the carriage with our friends Mr. and Mrs. E.
+          Cropper. On the way they were conversing upon the labors of Mrs. Chisholm, the
+          celebrated female philanthropist, whose efforts for the benefit of emigrants
+          are awakening a very general interest among all classes in England. They said
+          there had been hesitation on the part of some good people, in regard to
+          co&ouml;perating with her, because she is a Roman Catholic.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was agreed among us, that the great humanities of the present
+          day are a proper ground on which all sects can unite, and that if any feared
+          the extension of wrong sentiments, they had only to supply emigrant ships more
+          abundantly with the Bible. Mr. C. said that this is a movement exciting very
+          extensive interest, and that they hoped Mrs. Chisholm would visit Liverpool
+          before long.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The meeting was a very interesting one. The style of feeling
+          expressed in all the remarks was tempered by a deep and earnest remembrance of
+          the share which England originally had in planting the evil of slavery in the
+          civilized world, and her consequent obligation, as a Christian nation, now not
+          to cease her efforts until the evil is extirpated, not merely from her own
+          soil, but from all lands.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The feeling towards America was respectful and friendly, and the
+          utmost sympathy was expressed with her in the difficulties with which she is
+          environed by this evil. The tone of the meeting was deeply earnest and
+          religious. They presented us with a sum to be appropriated for the benefit of
+          the slave, in any way we might think proper.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A great number of friends accompanied us to the cars, and a
+          beautiful bouquet of flowers was sent, with a very affecting message from, a
+          sick gentleman, who, from the retirement of his chamber, felt a desire to
+          testify his sympathy.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now, if all this enthusiasm for freedom and humanity, in the
+          person of the American slave, is to be set down as good for nothing in England,
+          because there are evils there in society which require redress, what then shall
+          we say of ourselves? Have we not been enthusiastic for freedom in the person of
+          the Greek, the Hungarian, and the Pole, while protecting a much worse despotism
+          than any from which they suffer? Do we not consider it our duty to print and
+          distribute the Bible in all foreign lands, when there are three millions of
+          people among whom we dare not distribute it at home, and whom it is a penal
+          offence even to teach to read it? Do we not send remonstrances to Tuscany,
+          about the Madiai, when women are imprisoned in Virginia for teaching slaves to
+          read? Is all this hypocritical, insincere, and impertinent in us? Are we never
+          to send another missionary, or make another appeal for foreign lands, till we
+          have abolished slavery at home? For my part, I think that imperfect and
+          inconsistent outbursts of generosity and feeling are a great deal better than
+          none. No nation, no individual is wholly consistent and Christian; but let us
+          not in ourselves or in other nations repudiate the truest and most beautiful
+          developments of humanity, because we have not yet attained perfection.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All experience has proved that the sublime spirit of foreign
+          missions always is suggestive of home philanthropies, and that those whose
+          heart has been enlarged by the love of all mankind are always those who are
+          most efficient in their own particular sphere.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_20" name="toc_20"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter III</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">Glasgow</span>, April 16, 1853.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear Aunt
+          E.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">You shall have my earliest Scotch letter; for I am sure nobody
+          can sympathize in the emotions of the first approach to Scotland as you can. A
+          country dear to us by the memory of the dead and of the living; a country whose
+          history and literature, interesting enough of itself, has become to us still
+          more so, because the reading and learning of it formed part of our communion
+          for many a social hour, with friends long parted from earth.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The views of Scotland, which lay on my mother's table, even
+          while I was a little child, and in poring over which I spent so many happy,
+          dreamy hours,&mdash;the Scotch ballads, which were the delight of our evening
+          fireside, and which seemed almost to melt the soul out of me, before I was old
+          enough to understand their words,&mdash;the songs of Burns, which had been a
+          household treasure among us,&mdash;the enchantments of Scott,&mdash;all these
+          dimly returned upon me. It was the result of them all which I felt in nerve and
+          brain.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">And, by the by, that puts me in mind of one thing; and that is,
+          how much of our pleasure in literature results from its reflection on us from,
+          other minds. As we advance in life, the literature which has charmed us in the
+          circle of our friends becomes endeared to us from the reflected remembrance of
+          them, of their individualities, their opinions, and their sympathies, so that
+          our memory of it is a many-colored cord, drawn from many minds.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">So in coming near to Scotland, I seemed to feel not only my own
+          individuality, but all that my friends would have felt, had they been with me.
+          For sometimes we seem to be encompassed, as by a cloud, with a sense of the
+          sympathy of the absent and the dead.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We left Liverpool with hearts a little tremulous and excited by
+          the vibration of an atmosphere of universal sympathy and kindness. We found
+          ourselves, at length, shut from the warm adieus of our friends, in a snug
+          compartment of the railroad car. The English cars are models of comfort and
+          good keeping. There are six seats in a compartment, luxuriously cushioned and
+          nicely carpeted, and six was exactly the number of our party. Nevertheless, so
+          obstinate is custom that we averred at first that we preferred our American
+          cars, deficient as they are in many points of neatness and luxury, because they
+          are so much more social.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Dear me," said Mr. S., "six Yankees shut up in a car together!
+          Not one Englishman to tell us any thing about the country! Just like the six
+          old ladies that made their living by taking tea at each other's houses."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">But that is the way here in England: every arrangement in
+          travelling is designed to maintain that privacy and reserve which is the
+          dearest and most sacred part of an Englishman's nature. Things are so arranged
+          here that, if a man pleases, he can travel all through England with his family,
+          and keep the circle an unbroken unit, having just as little communication with
+          any thing outside of it as in his own house.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From one of these sheltered apartments in a railroad car, he can
+          pass to pre&euml;ngaged parlors and chambers in the hotel, with his own
+          separate table, and all his domestic manners and peculiarities unbroken. In
+          fact, it is a little compact home travelling about.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now, all this is very charming to people who know already as
+          much about a country as they want to know; but it follows from it that a
+          stranger might travel all through England, from one end to the other and not be
+          on conversing terms with a person in it. He may be at the same hotel, in the
+          same train with people able to give him all imaginable information, yet never
+          touch them at any practicable point of communion. This is more especially the
+          case if his party, as ours was, is just large enough to fill the whole
+          apartment.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to the comforts of the cars, it is to be said, that for the
+          same price you can get far more comfortable riding in America. Their first
+          class cars are beyond all praise, but also beyond all price; their second class
+          are comfortless, cushionless, and uninviting. Agreeably with our theory of
+          democratic equality, we have a general car, not so complete as the one, nor so
+          bare as the other, where all ride together; and if the traveller in thus riding
+          sees things that occasionally annoy him, when he remembers that the whole
+          population, from the highest to the lowest, are accommodated here together, he
+          will certainly see hopeful indications in the general comfort, order, and
+          respectability which prevail; all which we talked over most patriotically
+          together, while we were lamenting that there was not a seventh to our party, to
+          instruct us in the localities.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Every thing upon the railroad proceeds with systematic accuracy.
+          There is no chance for the most careless person to commit a blunder, or make a
+          mistake. At the proper time the conductor marches every body into their places
+          and locks them in, gives the word, "All right," and away we go. Somebody has
+          remarked, very characteristically, that the starting word of the English is
+          "all right," and that of the Americans "go ahead."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Away we go through Lancashire, wide awake, looking out on all
+          sides for any signs of antiquity. In being thus whirled through English
+          scenery, I became conscious of a new understanding of the spirit and
+          phraseology of English poetry. There are many phrases and expressions with
+          which we have been familiar from childhood, and which, we suppose, in a kind of
+          indefinite way, we understand, which, after all, when we come on English
+          ground, start into a new significance: take, for instance, these lines from
+          L'Allegro:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Sometimes walking, not unseen,</p>
+            <p class="l">By hedge-row elms on hillocks green.</p>
+            <p class="l">* * * *</p>
+            <p class="l">Straight mine eye hath caught new pleasures,</p>
+            <p class="l">While the landscape round it measures;</p>
+            <p class="l">Russet lawns and fallows gray,</p>
+            <p class="l">Where the nibbling flocks do stray;</p>
+            <p class="l">Mountains, on whose barren breast</p>
+            <p class="l">The laboring clouds do often rest;</p>
+            <p class="l">Meadows trim with daisies pied,</p>
+            <p class="l">Shallow brooks and livers wide:</p>
+            <p class="l">Towers and battlements it sees</p>
+            <p class="l">Bosom'd high in tufted trees."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Now, these hedge-row elms. I had never even asked myself
+          what they were till I saw them; but you know, as I said in a former letter, the
+          hedges are not all of them carefully cut; in fact many of them are only
+          irregular rows of bushes, where, although the hawthorn is the staple element,
+          yet firs, and brambles, and many other interlopers put in their claim, and they
+          all grow up together in a kind of straggling unity; and in the hedges trees are
+          often set out, particularly elms, and have a very pleasing effect.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then, too, the trees have more of that rounding outline which is
+          expressed by the word "bosomed." But here we are, right under the walls of
+          Lancaster, and Mr. S. wakes me up by quoting, "Old John o' Gaunt, time-honored
+          Lancaster."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Time-honored," said I; "it looks as fresh as if it had been
+          built yesterday: you do not mean to say that is the real old castle?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"To be sure, it is the very old castle built in the reign of
+          Edward III., by John of Gaunt."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It stands on the summit of a hill, seated regally like a queen
+          upon a throne, and every part of it looks as fresh, and sharp, and clear, as if
+          it were the work of modern times. It is used now for a county jail. We have but
+          a moment to stop or admire&mdash;the merciless steam car drives on. We have a
+          little talk about the feudal times, and the old past days; when again the cry
+          goes up,&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"O, there's something! What's that?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"O, that is Carlisle."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Carlisle!" said I; "what, the Carlisle of Scott's ballad?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"What ballad?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Why, don't you remember, in the Lay of the Last Minstrel, the
+          song of Albert Graeme, which has something about Carlisle's wall in every
+          verse?</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">'It was an English, laydie bright</p>
+            <p class="l">When sun shines fair on Carlisle wall,</p>
+            <p class="l">And she would marry a Scottish knight,</p>
+            <p class="l">For love will still be lord of all.'</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I used to read this when I was a child, and wonder what
+          'Carlisle wall' was."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Carlisle is one of the most ancient cities in England, dating
+          quite back to the time of the Romans. Wonderful! How these Romans left their
+          mark every where!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Carlisle has also its ancient castle, the lofty, massive tower
+          of which forms a striking feature of the town.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image8.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">This castle was built by William Rufus. David, King of Scots,
+          and Robert Bruce both tried their hands upon it, in the good old times, when
+          England and Scotland were a mutual robbery association. Then the castle of the
+          town was its great feature; castles were every thing in those days. Now the
+          castle has gone to decay, and stands only for a curiosity, and the cotton
+          factory has come up in its place. This place is famous for cottons and
+          ginghams, and moreover for a celebrated biscuit bakery. So goes the
+          world,&mdash;the lively vigorous shoots of the present springing out of the
+          old, mouldering trunk of the past.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. S. was in an ecstasy about an old church, a splendid Gothic,
+          in which Paley preached. He was archdeacon of Carlisle. We stopped here for a
+          little while to take dinner. In a large, handsome room tables were set out, and
+          we sat down to a regular meal.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One sees nothing of a town from a railroad station, since it
+          seems to be an invariable rule, not only here, but all over Europe, to locate
+          them so that you can see nothing from them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">By the by, I forgot to say, among the historical recollections
+          of this place, that it was the first stopping-place of Queen Mary, after her
+          fatal flight into England. The rooms which she occupied are still shown in the
+          castle, and there are interesting letters and documents extant from lords whom
+          Elizabeth sent here to visit her, in which they record her beauty, her heroic
+          sentiments, and even her dress; so strong was the fascination in which she held
+          all who approached her. Carlisle is the scene of the denouement of Guy
+          Mannering, and it is from this town that Lord Carlisle gets his title.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">And now keep up a bright lookout for ruins and old houses. Mr.
+          S., whose eyes are always in every place, allowed none of us to slumber, but
+          looking out, first on his own side and then on ours, called our attention to
+          every visible thing. If he had been appointed on a mission of inquiry he could
+          not have been more zealous and faithful, and I began to think that our desire
+          for an English cicerone was quite superfluous.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">And now we pass Gretna Green, famous in story&mdash;that
+          momentous place which marks the commencement of Scotland. It is a little
+          straggling village, and there is a roadside inn, which has been the scene of
+          innumerable Gretna Green marriages.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Owing to the fact that the Scottish law of marriage is far more
+          liberal in its construction than the English, this place has been the refuge of
+          distressed lovers from time immemorial; and although the practice of escaping
+          here is universally condemned as very naughty and improper, yet, like every
+          other impropriety, it is kept in countenance by very respectable people. Two
+          lord chancellors have had the amiable weakness to fall into this snare, and one
+          lord chancellor's son; so says the guide book, which is our Koran for the time
+          being. It says, moreover, that it would be easy to add a lengthened list of
+          <em>distingu&eacute;s</em> married at Gretna Green; but these lord chancellors
+          (Erskine and Eldon) are quoted as being the most melancholy monuments. What
+          shall meaner mortals do, when law itself, in all her majesty, wig, gown, and
+          all, goes by the board?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Well, we are in Scotland at last, and now our pulse rises as the
+          sun declines in the west. We catch glimpses of the Solway Frith, and talk about
+          Redgauntlet.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One says, "Do you remember the scene on the sea shore, with
+          which it opens, describing the rising of the tide?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">And says another, "Don't you remember those lines in the Young
+          Lochinvar song?&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">'Love swells like the Solway, but ebbs like its tide.'"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I wonder how many authors it will take to enchant our
+          country from Maine to New Orleans, as every foot of ground is enchanted here in
+          Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The sun went down, and night drew on; still we were in Scotland.
+          Scotch ballads, Scotch tunes, and Scotch literature were in the ascendant. We
+          sang "Auld Lang Syne," "Scots wha ha'," and "Bonnie Doon," and then, changing
+          the key, sang Dundee, Elgin, and Martyrs.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Take care," said Mr. S.; "don't get too much excited."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Ah," said I, "this is a thing that comes only once in a
+          lifetime; do let us have the comfort of it. We shall never come into Scotland
+          for the <em>first time</em> again."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Ah," said another, "how I wish Walter Scott was alive!"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">While we were thus at the fusion point of enthusiasm, the cars
+          stopped at Lockerby, where the real Old Mortality is buried. All was dim and
+          dark outside, but we soon became conscious that there was quite a number
+          collected, peering into the window, and, with a strange kind of thrill, I heard
+          my name inquired for in the Scottish accent. I went to the window; there were
+          men, women, and children there, and hand after hand was presented, with the
+          words, "Ye're welcome to Scotland!"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then they inquired for, and shook hands with, all the party,
+          having in some mysterious manner got the knowledge of who they were, even down
+          to little G&mdash;&mdash;, whom they took to be my son. Was it not pleasant,
+          when I had a heart so warm for this old country? I shall never forget the
+          thrill of those words, "Ye're welcome to Scotland," nor the "Gude night."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After that we found similar welcomes in many succeeding
+          stopping-places; and though I did wave a towel out of the window, instead of a
+          pocket handkerchief, and commit other awkwardnesses, from not knowing how to
+          play my part, yet I fancied, after all, that Scotland and we were coming on
+          well together. Who the good souls were that were thus watching for us through
+          the night, I am sure I do not know; but that they were of the "one blood,"
+          which unites all the families of the earth, I felt.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we came towards Glasgow, we saw, upon a high hill, what we
+          supposed to be a castle on fire&mdash;great volumes of smoke rolling up, and
+          fire looking out of arched windows.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Dear me, what a conflagration!" we all exclaimed. We had not
+          gone very far before we saw another, and then, on the opposite side of the car,
+          another still.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Why, it seems to me the country is all on fire."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I should think," said Mr. S., "if it was in old times, that
+          there had been a raid from the Highlands, and set all the houses on fire."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Or they might be beacons," suggested C.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To this some one answered out of the Lay of the Last
+          Minstrel,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Sweet Teviot, by thy silver tide</p>
+            <p class="l">The glaring bale-fires blaze no more."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">As we drew near to Glasgow these illuminations increased,
+          till the whole air was red with the glare of them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"What can they be?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Dear me," said Mr. S., in a tone of sudden recollection, "it's
+          the iron works! Don't you know Glasgow is celebrated for its iron works?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">So, after all, in these peaceful fires of the iron works, we got
+          an idea how the country might have looked in the old picturesque times, when
+          the Highlanders came down and set the Lowlands on fire; such scenes as are
+          commemorated in the words of Roderick Dhu's song:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Proudly our pibroch, has thrilled in Glen Fruin,</p>
+            <p class="l">And Banmachar's groans to our slogan replied;</p>
+            <p class="l">Glen Luss and Ross Dhu, they are smoking in ruins,</p>
+            <p class="l">And the best of Loch Lomond lies dead on her side."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">To be sure the fires of iron founderies are much less
+          picturesque than the old beacons, and the clink of hammers than the clash of
+          claymores; but the most devout worshipper of the middle ages would hardly wish
+          to change them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Dimly, by the flickering light of these furnaces, we see the
+          approach to the old city of Glasgow. There, we are arrived! Friends are waiting
+          in the station house. Earnest, eager, friendly faces, ever so many. Warm
+          greetings, kindly words. A crowd parting in the middle, through which we were
+          conducted into a carriage, and loud cheers of welcome, sent a throb, as the
+          voice of living Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I looked out of the carriage, as we drove on, and saw, by the
+          light of a lantern, Argyle Street. It was past twelve o'clock when I found
+          myself in a warm, cozy parlor, with friends, whom I have ever since been glad
+          to remember. In a little time we were all safely housed in our hospitable
+          apartments, and sleep fell on me for the first time in Scotland.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_21" name="toc_21"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter IV</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear
+          Aunt E.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next morning I awoke worn and weary, and scarce could the
+          charms of the social Scotch breakfast restore me. I say Scotch, for we had many
+          viands peculiarly national. The smoking porridge, or parritch, of oatmeal,
+          which is the great staple dish throughout Scotland. Then there was the bannock,
+          a thin, wafer-like cake of the same material. My friend laughingly said when he
+          passed it, "You are in the 'land o' cakes,' remember." There was also some
+          herring, as nice a Scottish fish as ever wore scales, besides dainties
+          innumerable which were not national.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our friend and host was Mr. Baillie Paton. I believe that it is
+          to his suggestion in a public meeting, that we owe the invitation which brought
+          us to Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">By the by, I should say that "baillie" seems to correspond to
+          what we call a member of the city council. Mr. Paton told us, that they had
+          expected us earlier, and that the day before quite a party of friends met at
+          his house to see us, among whom was good old Dr. Wardlaw.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After breakfast the calling began. First, a friend of the
+          family, with three beautiful children, the youngest of whom was the bearer of a
+          handsomely bound album, containing a pressed collection of the sea mosses of
+          the Scottish coast, very vivid and beautiful.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">If the bloom of English children appeared to me wonderful, I
+          seemed to find the same thing intensified, if possible, in Scotland. The
+          children are brilliant as pomegranate blossoms, and their vivid beauty called
+          forth unceasing admiration. Nor is it merely the children of the rich, or of
+          the higher classes, that are thus gifted. I have seen many a group of ragged
+          urchins in the streets and closes with all the high coloring of Rubens, and all
+          his fulness of outline. Why is it that we admire ragged children on canvas so
+          much more than the same in nature?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All this day is a confused dream to me of a dizzy and
+          overwhelming kind. So many letters that it took C&mdash;&mdash; from nine in
+          the morning till two in the afternoon to read and answer them in the shortest
+          manner; letters from all classes of people, high and low, rich and poor, in all
+          shades and styles of composition, poetry and prose; some mere outbursts of
+          feeling; some invitations; some advice and suggestions; some requests and
+          inquiries; some presenting books, or flowers, or fruit.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then came, in their turn, deputations from Paisley, Greenock,
+          Dundee, Aberdeen, Edinburgh, and Belfast in Ireland; calls of friendship,
+          invitations of all descriptions to go every where, and to see every thing, and
+          to stay in so many places. One kind, venerable minister, with his lovely
+          daughter, offered me a retreat in his quiet manse on the beautiful shores of
+          the Clyde.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">For all these kindnesses, what could I give in return? There was
+          scarce time for even a grateful thought on each. People have often said to me
+          that it must have been an exceeding bore. For my part, I could not think of
+          regarding it so. It only oppressed me with an unutterable sadness.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To me there is always something interesting and beautiful about
+          a universal popular excitement of a generous character, let the object of it be
+          what it may. The great desiring heart of man, surging with one strong,
+          sympathetic swell, even though it be to break on the beach of life and fall
+          backwards, leaving the sands as barren as before, has yet a meaning and a power
+          in its restlessness, with which I must deeply sympathize. Nor do I sympathize
+          any the less, when the individual, who calls forth such an outburst, can be
+          seen by the eye of sober sense to be altogether inadequate and disproportioned
+          to it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I do not regard it as any thing against our American nation,
+          that we are capable, to a very great extent, of these sudden personal
+          enthusiasms, because I think that, with an individual or a community, the
+          capability of being exalted into a temporary enthusiasm of self-forgetfulness,
+          so far from being a fault, has in it a quality of something divine.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Of course, about all such things there is a great deal which a
+          cool critic could make ridiculous, but I hold to my opinion of them
+          nevertheless.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the afternoon I rode out with the lord provost to see the
+          cathedral. The lord provost answers to the lord mayor in England. His title and
+          office in both countries continue only a year, except in cases of
+          re&euml;lection.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As I saw the way to the cathedral blocked up by a throng of
+          people, who had come out to see me, I could not help saying, "What went ye out
+          for to see? a reed shaken with the wind?" In fact, I was so worn out, that I
+          could hardly walk through the building.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is in this cathedral that part of the scene of Rob Roy is
+          laid. This was my first experience in cathedrals. It was a new thing to me
+          altogether, and as I walked along under the old buttresses and battlements
+          without, and looked into the bewildering labyrinths of architecture within, I
+          saw that, with silence and solitude to help the impression, the old building
+          might become a strong part of one's inner life. A grave yard crowded with flat
+          stones lies all around it. A deep ravine separates it from another cemetery on
+          an opposite eminence, rustling with dark pines. A little brook murmurs with its
+          slender voice between.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image9.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">On this opposite eminence the statue of John Knox, grim and
+          strong, stands with its arm uplifted, as if shaking his fist at the old
+          cathedral which in life he vainly endeavored to battle down.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Knox was very different from Luther, in that he had no
+          conservative element in him, but warred equally against accessories and
+          essentials.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At the time when the churches of Scotland were being pulled down
+          in a general iconoclastic crusade, the tradesmen of Glasgow stood for the
+          defence of their cathedral, and forced the reformers to content themselves with
+          having the idolatrous images of saints pulled down from their niches and thrown
+          into the brook, while, as Andrew Fairservice hath it, "The auld kirk stood as
+          crouse as a cat when the fleas are caimed aff her, and a' body was alike
+          pleased."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went all through the cathedral, which is fitted up as a
+          Protestant place of worship, and has a simple and massive grandeur about it. In
+          fact, to quote again from our friend Andrew, we could truly say, "Ah, it's a
+          brave kirk, nane o' yere whig-malceries, and curliewurlies, and opensteek hems
+          about it&mdash;a' solid, weel-jointed mason wark, that will stand as lang as
+          the warld, keep hands and gun-powther aff it."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I was disappointed in one thing: the painted glass, if there has
+          ever been any, is almost all gone, and the glare of light through the immense
+          windows is altogether too great, revealing many defects and rudenesses in the
+          architecture, which would have quite another appearance in the colored rays
+          through painted windows&mdash;an emblem, perhaps, of the cold, definite,
+          intellectual rationalism, which has taken the place of the many-colored,
+          gorgeous mysticism of former times.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After having been over the church, we requested, out of respect
+          to Baillie Nicol Jarvie's memory, to be driven through the Saut Market. I,
+          however, was so thoroughly tired that I cannot remember any thing about it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I will say, by the way, that I have found out since, that
+          nothing is so utterly hazardous to a person's strength as looking at
+          cathedrals. The strain upon the head and eyes in looking up through these
+          immense arches, and then the sepulchral chill which abides from generation to
+          generation in them, their great extent, and the variety which tempts you to
+          fatigue which you are not at all aware of, have overcome, as I was told, many
+          before me.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. S. and C&mdash;&mdash;, however, made amends, by their great
+          activity and zeal, for all that I could not do, and I was pleased to understand
+          from them, that part of the old Tolbooth, where Rob Roy and the baillie had
+          their rencontre, was standing safe and sound, with stuff enough in it for half
+          a dozen more stories, if any body could be found to write them. And Mr. S.
+          insisted upon it, that I should not omit to notify you of this
+          circumstance.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Well, in consequence of all this, the next morning I was so ill
+          as to need a physician, unable to see any one that called, or to hear any of
+          the letters. I passed most of the day in bed, but in the evening I had to get
+          up, as I had engaged to drink tea with two thousand people. Our kind friends
+          Dr. and Mrs. Wardlaw came after us, and Mr. S. and I went in the carriage with
+          them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Dr. Wardlaw is a venerable-looking old man; we both thought we
+          saw a striking resemblance in him to our friend Dr. Woods, of Andover. He is
+          still quite active in body and mind, and officiates to his congregation with
+          great acceptance. I fear, however, that he is in ill health, for I noticed, as
+          we were passing along to church, that he frequently laid his hand upon his
+          heart, and seemed in pain. He said he hoped he should be able to get through
+          the evening, but that when he was not well, excitement was apt to bring on a
+          spasm about the heart; but with it all he seemed so cheerful, lively, and
+          benignant, that I could not but feel my affections drawn towards him. Mrs.
+          Wardlaw is a gentle, motherly woman, and it was a great comfort to have her
+          with me on such an occasion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our carriage stopped at last at the place. I have a dim
+          remembrance of a way being made for us through a great crowd all round the
+          house, and of going with Mrs. Wardlaw up into a dressing room, where I met and
+          shook hands with many friendly people. Then we passed into a gallery, where a
+          seat was reserved for our party, directly in front of the audience. Our friend
+          Baillie Paton presided. Mrs. Wardlaw and I sat together, and around us many
+          friends, chiefly ministers of the different churches, the ladies and gentlemen
+          of the Glasgow Antislavery Society, and others.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I told you it was a tea party; but the arrangements were
+          altogether different from any I had ever seen. There were narrow tables
+          stretched up and down the whole extent of the great hall, and every person had
+          an appointed seat. These tables were set out with cups and saucers, cakes,
+          biscuit, &amp;c., and when the proper time came, attendants passed along
+          serving tea. The arrangements were so accurate and methodical that the whole
+          multitude actually took tea together, without the least apparent inconvenience
+          or disturbance.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There was a gentle, subdued murmur of conversation all over the
+          house, the sociable clinking of teacups and teaspoons, while the entertainment
+          was going on. It seemed to me such an odd idea, I could not help wondering what
+          sort of a teapot that must be, in which all this tea for two thousand people
+          was made. Truly, as Hadji Baba says, I think they must have had the "father of
+          all teakettles" to boil it in. I could not help wondering if old mother
+          Scotland had put two thousand teaspoonfuls of tea for the company, and one for
+          the teapot, as is our good Yankee custom.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We had quite a sociable time up in our gallery. Our tea table
+          stretched quite across the gallery, and we drank tea "in sight of all the
+          people." By <em>we</em>, I mean a great number of ministers and their wives,
+          and ladies of the Antislavery Society, besides our party, and the friends whom
+          I have mentioned before. All seemed to be enjoying themselves.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After tea they sang a few verses of the seventy-second psalm in
+          the old Scotch version.</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The people's poor ones he shall judge,</p>
+            <p class="l">The needy's children save;</p>
+            <p class="l">And those shall he in pieces break,</p>
+            <p class="l">Who them oppressed have.</p>
+            <p class="l">For he the needy shall preserve,</p>
+            <p class="l">When he to him doth call;</p>
+            <p class="l">The poor, also, and him that hath</p>
+            <p class="l">No help of man at all.</p>
+            <p class="l">Both from deceit and violence</p>
+            <p class="l">Their soul he shall set free;</p>
+            <p class="l">And in his sight right precious</p>
+            <p class="l">And dear their blood shall be.</p>
+            <p class="l">Now blessed be the Lord, our God,</p>
+            <p class="l">The God of Israel,</p>
+            <p class="l">For he alone doth wondrous works,</p>
+            <p class="l">In glory that excel.</p>
+            <p class="l">And blessed be his glorious name</p>
+            <p class="l">To all eternity;</p>
+            <p class="l">The whole earth let his glory fill:</p>
+            <p class="l">Amen; so let it be."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">When I heard the united sound of all the voices, giving
+          force to these simple and pathetic words, I thought I could see something of
+          the reason why that rude old translation still holds its place in Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The addresses were, many of them, very beautiful; the more so
+          for the earnest and religious feeling which they manifested. That of Dr.
+          Wardlaw, in particular, was full of comfort and encouragement, and breathed a
+          most candid and catholic spirit. Could our friends in America see with what
+          earnest warmth the religious heart of Scotland beats towards them, they would
+          be willing to suffer a word of admonition from those to whom love gives a right
+          to speak. As Christians, all have a common interest in what honors or dishonors
+          Christianity, and an ocean between us does not make us less one church.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Most of the speeches you will see recorded in the papers. In the
+          course of the evening there was a second service of grapes, oranges, and other
+          fruits, served round in the same quiet manner as the tea. On account of the
+          feeble state of my health, they kindly excused me before the exercises of the
+          evening were over.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next morning, at ten o'clock, we rode with a party of
+          friends to see some of the <em>notabilia</em>. First, to Bothwell Castle, of
+          old the residence of the Black Douglas. The name had for me the quality of
+          enchantment. I cannot understand nor explain the nature of that sad yearning
+          and longing with which one visits the mouldering remains of a state of society
+          which one's reason wholly disapproves, and which one's calm sense of right
+          would think it the greatest misfortune to have recalled; yet when the carriage
+          turned under the shadow of beautiful ancient oaks, and Mr. S. said, "There, we
+          are in the grounds of the old Black Douglas family!" I felt every nerve shiver.
+          I remembered the dim melodies of the Lady of the Lake. Bothwell's lord was the
+          lord of this castle, whose beautiful ruins here adorn the banks of the
+          Clyde.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image10.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">Whatever else we have or may have in America, we shall never
+          have the wild, poetic beauty of these ruins. The present noble possessors are
+          fully aware of their worth as objects of taste, and, therefore, with the
+          greatest care are they preserved. Winding walks are cut through the grounds
+          with much ingenuity, and seats or arbors are placed at every desirable and
+          picturesque point of view.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To the thorough-paced tourist, who wants to <em>do</em> the
+          proprieties in the shortest possible time, this arrangement is undoubtedly
+          particularly satisfactory; but to the idealist, who would like to roam, and
+          dream, and feel, and to come unexpectedly on the choicest points of view, it is
+          rather a damper to have all his raptures prearranged and foreordained for him,
+          set down in the guide book and proclaimed by the guide, even though it should
+          be done with the most artistic accuracy.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Nevertheless, when we came to the arbor which commanded the
+          finest view of the old castle, and saw its gray, ivy-clad walls, standing forth
+          on a beautiful point, round which swept the brown, dimpling waves of the Clyde,
+          the indescribable sweetness, sadness, wildness of the whole scene would make
+          its voice heard in our hearts. "Thy servants take pleasure in her dust, and
+          favor the stones thereof," said an old Hebrew poet, who must have felt the
+          inexpressibly sad beauty of a ruin. All the splendid phantasmagoria of chivalry
+          and feudalism, knights, ladies, banners, glittering arms, sweep before us; the
+          cry of the battle, the noise of the captains, and the shouting; and then in
+          contrast this deep stillness, that green, clinging ivy, the gentle, rippling
+          river, those weeping birches, dipping in its soft waters&mdash;all these, in
+          their quiet loveliness, speak of something more imperishable than brute
+          force.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The ivy on the walls now displays a trunk in some places as
+          large as a man's body. In the days of old Archibald the Grim, I suppose that
+          ivy was a little, weak twig, which, if he ever noticed, he must have thought
+          the feeblest and slightest of all things; yet Archibald has gone back to dust,
+          and the ivy is still growing on. Such force is there in gentle things.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I have often been dissatisfied with the admiration, which a
+          poetic education has woven into my nature, for chivalry and feudalism; but, on
+          a closer examination, I am convinced that there is a real and proper foundation
+          for it, and that, rightly understood, this poetic admiration is not
+          inconsistent with the spirit of Christ.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">For, let us consider what it is we admire in these Douglases,
+          for instance, who, as represented by Scott, are perhaps as good exponents of
+          the idea as any. Was it their hardness, their cruelty, their hastiness to take
+          offence, their fondness for blood and murder? All these, by and of themselves,
+          are simply disgusting. What, then, do we admire? Their courage, their
+          fortitude, their scorn of lying and dissimulation, their high sense of personal
+          honor, which led them to feel themselves the protectors of the weak, and to
+          disdain to take advantage of unequal odds against an enemy. If we read the book
+          of Isaiah, we shall see that some of the most striking representations of God
+          appeal to the very same principles of our nature.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The fact is, there can be no reliable character which has not
+          its basis in these strong qualities. The beautiful must ever rest in the arms
+          of the sublime. The gentle needs the strong to sustain it, as much as the rock
+          flowers need rocks to grow on, or yonder ivy the rugged wall which it embraces.
+          When we are admiring these things, therefore, we are only admiring some
+          sparkles and glimmers of that which is divine, and so coming nearer to Him in
+          whom all fulness dwells.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After admiring at a distance, we strolled through the ruins
+          themselves. Do you remember, in the Lady of the Lake, where the exiled Douglas,
+          recalling to his daughter the images of his former splendor, says,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"When Blantyre hymned, her holiest lays,</p>
+            <p class="l">And Bothwell's walls flung back the praise"?</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="dgp">These lines came forcibly to my mind, when I saw the mouldering
+          ruins of Blantyre priory rising exactly opposite to the castle, on the other
+          side of the Clyde.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image11.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">The banks of the River Clyde, where we walked, were thick set
+          with Portuguese laurel, which I have before mentioned as similar to our
+          rhododendron. I here noticed a fact with regard to the ivy which had often
+          puzzled me; and that is, the different shapes of its leaves in the different
+          stages of its growth. The young ivy has this leaf; but when it has become more
+          than a century old every trace and indentation melts away, and it assumes this
+          form, which I found afterwards to be the invariable shape of all the oldest
+          ivy, in all the ruins of Europe which I explored.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This ivy, like the spider, takes hold with her hands in kings'
+          palaces, as every twig is furnished with innumerable little clinging fingers,
+          by which it draws itself close, as it were, to the very heart of the old rough
+          stone.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Its clinging and beautiful tenacity has given rise to an
+          abundance of conceits about fidelity, friendship, and woman's love, which have
+          become commonplace simply from their appropriateness. It might, also, symbolize
+          that higher love, unconquerable and unconquered, which has embraced this ruined
+          world from age to age, silently spreading its green over the rents and fissures
+          of our fallen nature, giving "beauty for ashes, and garments of praise for the
+          spirit of heaviness."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is a modern mansion, where the present proprietor of the
+          estate lives. It was with an emotion partaking of the sorrowful, that we heard
+          that the Douglas line, as such, was extinct, and that the estate had passed to
+          distant connections. I was told that the present Lord Douglas is a peaceful
+          clergyman, quite a different character from old Archibald the Grim.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The present residence is a plain mansion, standing on a
+          beautiful lawn, near the old castle. The head gardener of the estate and many
+          of the servants came out to meet us, with faces full of interest. The gardener
+          walked about to show us the localities, and had a great deal of the quiet
+          intelligence and self-respect which, I think, is characteristic of the laboring
+          classes here. I noticed that on the green sweep of the lawn, he had set out
+          here and there a good many daisies, as embellishments to the grass, and these
+          in many places were defended by sticks bent over them, and that, in one place,
+          a bank overhanging the stream was radiant with yellow daffodils, which appeared
+          to have come up and blossomed there accidentally. I know not whether these were
+          planted there, or came up of themselves.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We next went to the famous Bothwell bridge, which Scott has
+          immortalized in Old Mortality. We walked up and down, trying to recall the
+          scenes of the battle, as there described, and were rather mortified, after we
+          had all our associations comfortably located upon it, to be told that it was
+          not the same bridge&mdash;it had been newly built, widened, and otherwise made
+          more comfortable and convenient.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Of course, this was evidently for the benefit of society, but it
+          was certainly one of those cases where the poetical suffers for the practical.
+          I comforted myself in my despondency, by looking over at the old stone piers
+          underneath, which were indisputably the same. We drove now through beautiful
+          grounds, and alighted at an elegant mansion, which in former days belonged to
+          Lockhart, the son-in-law of Scott. It was in this house that Old Mortality was
+          written.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As I was weary, the party left me here, while they went on to
+          see the Duke of Hamilton's grounds. Our kind hostess showed me into a small
+          study, where she said Old Mortality was written. The window commanded a
+          beautiful view of many of the localities described. Scott was as particular to
+          consult for accuracy in his local descriptions as if he had been writing a
+          guide book.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">He was in the habit of noting down in his memorandum book even
+          names and characteristics of the wild flowers and grasses that grew about a
+          place. When a friend once remarked to him, that he should have supposed his
+          imagination could have supplied such trifles, he made an answer that is worth
+          remembering by every artist&mdash;that no imagination could long support its
+          freshness, that was not nourished by a constant and minute observation of
+          nature.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Craignethan Castle, which is the original of Tillietudlem, we
+          were informed, was not far from thence. It is stated in Lockhart's Life of
+          Scott, that the ruins of this castle excited in Scott such delight and
+          enthusiasm, that its owner urged him to accept for his lifetime the use of a
+          small habitable house, enclosed within the circuit of the walls.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After the return of the party from Hamilton Park, we sat down to
+          an elegant lunch, where my eye was attracted more than any thing else, by the
+          splendor of the hothouse flowers which adorned the table. So far as I have
+          observed, the culture of flowers, both in England and Scotland, is more
+          universally an object of attention than with us. Every family in easy
+          circumstances seems, as a matter of course, to have their greenhouse, and the
+          flowers are brought to a degree of perfection which I have never seen at
+          home.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I may as well say here, that we were told by a gentleman, whose
+          name I do not now remember, that this whole district had been celebrated for
+          its orchards; he added, however, that since the introduction of the American
+          apple into the market, its superior excellence had made many of these orchards
+          almost entirely worthless. It is a curious fact, showing how the new world is
+          working on the old.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After taking leave of our hospitable friends, we took to our
+          carriages again. As we were driving slowly through the beautiful grounds,
+          admiring, as we never failed to do, their perfect cultivation, a party of
+          servants appeared in sight, waving their hats and handkerchiefs, and cheering
+          us as we passed. These kindly expressions from them were as pleasant as any we
+          received.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening we had engaged to attend another
+          <em>soir&eacute;e</em>, gotten up by the working classes, to give admission to
+          many who were not in circumstances to purchase tickets for the other. This was
+          to me, if any thing, a more interesting <em>r&eacute;union</em>, because this
+          was just the class whom I wished to meet. The arrangements of the entertainment
+          were like those of the evening before.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As I sat in the front gallery and looked over the audience with
+          an intense interest, I thought they appeared on the whole very much like what I
+          might have seen at home in a similar gathering. Men, women, and children were
+          dressed in a style which showed both self-respect and good taste, and the
+          speeches were far above mediocrity. One pale young man, a watchmaker, as I was
+          told afterwards, delivered an address, which, though doubtless it had the
+          promising fault of too much elaboration and ornament, yet I thought had
+          passages which would do honor to any literary periodical whatever.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were other orators less highly finished, who yet spoke
+          "right on," in a strong, forcible, and really eloquent way, giving the grain of
+          the wood without the varnish. They contended very seriously and sensibly, that
+          although the working men of England and Scotland had many things to complain
+          of, and many things to be reformed, yet their condition was world-wide
+          different from that of the slave.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One cannot read the history of the working classes in England,
+          for the last fifty years, without feeling sensibly the difference between
+          oppressions under a free government and slavery. So long as the working class
+          of England produces orators and writers, such as it undoubtedly has produced;
+          so long as it has in it that spirit of independence and resistance of wrong,
+          which has shown itself more and more during the agitations of the last fifty
+          years; and so as long as the law allows them to meet and debate, to form
+          associations and committees, to send up remonstrances and petitions to
+          government,&mdash;one can see that their case is essentially different from
+          that of plantation slaves.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I must say, I was struck this night with the resemblance between
+          the Scotchman and the New Englander. One sees the distinctive nationality of a
+          country more in the middle and laboring classes than in the higher, and
+          accordingly at this meeting there was more nationality, I thought, than at the
+          other.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The highest class of mind in all countries loses nationality,
+          and becomes universal; it is a great pity, too, because nationality is
+          picturesque always. One of the greatest miracles to my mind about Kossuth was,
+          that with so universal an education, and such an extensive range of language
+          and thought, he was yet so distinctively a Magyar.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One thing has surprised and rather disappointed us. Our
+          enthusiasm for Walter Scott does not apparently meet a response in the popular
+          breast. Allusions to Bannockburn and Drumclog bring down the house, but
+          enthusiasm for Scott was met with comparative silence. We discussed this matter
+          among ourselves, and rather wondered at it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The fact is, Scott belonged to a past, and not to the coming
+          age. He beautified and adorned that which is waxing old and passing away. He
+          loved and worshipped in his very soul institutions which the majority of the
+          common people have felt as a restraint and a burden. One might naturally get a
+          very different idea of a feudal castle by starving to death in the dungeon of
+          it, than by writing sonnets on it at a picturesque distance. Now, we in America
+          are so far removed from feudalism,&mdash;it has been a thing so much of mere
+          song and story with us, and our sympathies are so unchecked by any experience
+          of inconvenience or injustice in its consequences,&mdash;that we are at full
+          liberty to appreciate the picturesque of it, and sometimes, when we stand
+          overlooking our own beautiful scenery, to wish that we could see,</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"On yon bold brow, a lordly tower;</p>
+            <p class="l">In that soft vale, a lady's bower;</p>
+            <p class="l">In yonder meadow, far away,</p>
+            <p class="l">The turrets of a cloister gray;"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">when those who know by experience all the accompaniments of
+          these ornaments, would have quite another impression.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Nevertheless, since there are two worlds in man, the real and
+          the ideal, and both have indisputably a right to be, since God made the
+          faculties of both, we must feel that it is a benefaction to mankind, that Scott
+          was thus raised up as the link, in the ideal world, between the present and the
+          past. It is a loss to universal humanity to have the imprint of any phase of
+          human life and experience entirely blotted out. Scott's fictions are like this
+          beautiful ivy, with which all the ruins here are overgrown,&mdash;they not only
+          adorn, but, in many cases, they actually hold together, and prevent the
+          crumbling mass from falling into ruins.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To-morrow we are going to have a sail on the Clyde.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_22" name="toc_22"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter V</h2>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right">April 17.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          Sister</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To-day a large party of us started on a small steamer, to go
+          down the Clyde. It has been a very, very exciting day to us. It is so
+          stimulating to be where every name is a poem. For instance, we start at the
+          Broomielaw. This Broomielaw is a kind of wharf, or landing. Perhaps in old
+          times it was a haugh overgrown with broom, from whence it gets its name; this
+          is only my conjecture, however.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We have a small steamer quite crowded with people, our excursion
+          party being very numerous. In a few minutes after starting, somebody
+          says,&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"O, here's where the Kelvin enters." This starts up,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Let us haste to Kelvin Grove."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Then soon we are coming to Dumbarton Castle, and all the
+          tears we shed over Miss Porter's William Wallace seem to rise up like a
+          many-colored mist about it. The highest peak of the rock is still called
+          Wallace's Seat, and a part of the castle, Wallace's Tower; and in one of its
+          apartments a huge two-handed sword of the hero is still shown. I suppose, in
+          fact, Miss Porter's sentimental hero is about as much like the real William
+          Wallace as Daniel Boone is like Sir Charles Grandison. Many a young lady, who
+          has cried herself sick over Wallace in the novel, would have been in perfect
+          horror if she could have seen the real man. Still Dumbarton Castle is not a
+          whit the less picturesque for that.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now comes the Leven,&mdash;that identical Leven Water known in
+          song,&mdash;and on the right is Leven Grove.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"There," said somebody to me, "is the old mansion of the Earls
+          of Glencairn." Quick as thought, flashed through my mind that most eloquent of
+          Burns's poems, the Lament for James, Earl of Glencairn.</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The bridegroom may forget the bride</p>
+            <p class="l">Was made his wedded wife yestreen;</p>
+            <p class="l">The monarch may forget the crown</p>
+            <p class="l">That on his head an hour hath been;</p>
+            <p class="l">The mother may forget the child</p>
+            <p class="l">That smiles sae sweetly on her knee;</p>
+            <p class="l">But I'll remember thee, Glencairn,</p>
+            <p class="l">And a' that thou hast done for me."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">This mansion is now the seat of Graham of Gartmor.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now we are shown the remains of old Cardross Castle, where it
+          was said Robert Bruce breathed his last. And now we come near the beautiful
+          grounds of Roseneath, a green, velvet-like peninsula, stretching out into the
+          widening waters.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Peninsula!" said C&mdash;&mdash;. "Why, Walter Scott said it
+          was an island."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Certainly, he did declare most explicitly in the person of Mr.
+          Archibald, the Duke of Argyle's serving man, to Miss Dollie Dutton, when she
+          insisted on going to it by land, that Roseneath was an island. It shows that
+          the most accurate may be caught tripping sometimes.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Of course, our heads were full of David Deans, Jeanie, and
+          Effie, but we saw nothing of them. The Duke of Argyle's Italian mansion is the
+          most conspicuous object.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Hereupon there was considerable discussion on the present Duke
+          of Argyle among the company, from which we gathered that he stood high in favor
+          with the popular mind. One said that there had been an old prophecy, probably
+          uttered somewhere up in the Highlands, where such things are indigenous, that a
+          very good duke of Argyle was to arise having red hair, and that the present
+          duke had verified the prediction by uniting both requisites. They say that he
+          is quite a young man, with a small, slight figure, but with a great deal of
+          energy and acuteness of mind, and with the generous and noble traits which have
+          distinguished his house in former times. He was a pupil of Dr. Arnold, a member
+          of the National Scotch Kirk, and generally understood to be a serious and
+          religious man. He is one of the noblemen who have been willing to come forward
+          and make use of his education and talent in the way of popular lectures at
+          lyceums and athen&aelig;ums; as have also the Duke of Newcastle, the Earl of
+          Carlisle, and some others. So the world goes on. I must think, with all
+          deference to poetry, that it is much better to deliver a lyceum lecture than to
+          head a clan in battle; though I suppose, a century and a half ago, had the
+          thing been predicted to McCallummore's old harper, he would have been greatly
+          at a loss to comprehend the nature of the transaction.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Somewhere about here, I was presented, by his own request, to a
+          broad-shouldered Scotch farmer, who stood some six feet two, and who paid me
+          the compliment to say, that he had read my book, and that he would walk six
+          miles to see me any day. Such a flattering evidence of discriminating taste, of
+          course, disposed my heart towards him; but when I went up and put my hand into
+          his great prairie of a palm, I was as a grasshopper in my own eyes. I inquired
+          who he was, and was told he was one of the Duke of Argyle's farmers. I thought
+          to myself, if all the duke's farmers were of this pattern, that he might be
+          able to speak to the enemy in the gates to some purpose.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Roseneath occupies the ground between the Gare Loch and Loch
+          Long. The Gare Loch is the name given to a bay formed by the River Clyde, here
+          stretching itself out like a lake. Here we landed and went on shore, passing
+          along the sides of the loch, in the little village of Row.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we were walking along a carriage came up after us, in which
+          were two ladies. A bunch of primroses, thrown from this carriage, fell at my
+          feet. I picked it up, and then the carriage stopped, and the ladies requested
+          to know if I was Mrs. Stowe. On answering in the affirmative, they urged me so
+          earnestly to come under their roof and take some refreshment, that I began to
+          remember, what I had partly lost sight of, that I was very tired; so, while the
+          rest of the party walked on to get a distant view of Ben Lomond, Mr. S. and I
+          suffered ourselves to be taken into the carriage of our unknown friends, and
+          carried up to a charming little Italian villa, which stood, surrounded by
+          flower gardens and pleasure grounds, at the head of the loch. We were ushered
+          into a most comfortable parlor, where a long window, made of one clear unbroken
+          sheet of plate glass, gave a perfect view of the loch with all its woody
+          shores, with Roseneath Castle in the distance. My good hostesses literally
+          overwhelmed me with kindness; but as there was nothing I really needed so much
+          as a little quiet rest, they took me to a cozy bedroom, of which they gave me
+          the freedom, for the present. Does not every traveller know what a luxury it is
+          to shut one's eyes sometimes? The chamber, which is called "Peace," is now, as
+          it was in Christian's days, one of the best things that Charity or Piety could
+          offer to the pilgrim. Here I got a little brush from the wings of
+          dewy-feathered sleep.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After a while our party came back, and we had to be moving. My
+          kind friends expressed so much joy at having met me, that it was really almost
+          embarrassing. They told me that they, being confined to the house by ill
+          health, and one of them by lameness, had had no hope of ever seeing me, and
+          that this meeting seemed a wonderful gift of Providence. They bade me take
+          courage and hope, for they felt assured that the Lord would yet entirely make
+          an end of slavery through the world.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was concluded, after we left here, that, instead of returning
+          by the boat, we should take carriage and ride home along the banks of the
+          river. In our carriage were Mr. S. and myself, Dr. Robson and Lady Anderson.
+          About this time I commenced my first essay towards giving titles, and made, as
+          you may suppose, rather an odd piece of work of it, generally saying "Mrs."
+          first, and "Lady" afterwards, and then begging pardon. Lady Anderson laughed,
+          and said she would give me a general absolution. She is a truly genial, hearty
+          Scotch woman, and seemed to enter happily into the spirit of the hour.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we rode on we found that the news of our coming had spread
+          through the village. People came and stood in their doors, beckoning, bowing,
+          smiling, and waving their handkerchiefs, and the carriage was several times
+          stopped by persons who came to offer flowers. I remember, in particular, a
+          group of young girls brought to the carriage two of the most beautiful children
+          I ever saw, whose little hands literally deluged us with flowers.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At the village of Helensburgh we stopped a little while to call
+          upon Mrs. Bell, the wife of Mr. Bell, the inventor of the steamboat. His
+          invention in this country was about the same time of that of Fulton in America.
+          Mrs. Bell came to the carriage to speak to us. She is a venerable woman, far
+          advanced in years. They had prepared a lunch for us, and quite a number of
+          people had come together to meet us, but our friends said that there was not
+          time for us to stop.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We rode through several villages after this, and met quite warm
+          welcome. What pleased me was, that it was not mainly from the literary, nor the
+          rich, nor the great, but the plain, common people. The butcher came out of his
+          stall, and the baker from his shop, the miller, dusty with his flour, the
+          blooming, comely, young mother, with her baby in her arms, all smiling and
+          bowing with that hearty, intelligent, friendly look, as if they knew we should
+          be glad to see them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Once, while we stopped to change horses, I, for the sake of
+          seeing something more of the country, walked on. It seems the honest landlord
+          and his wife were greatly disappointed at this; however, they got into the
+          carriage and rode on to see me, and I shook hands with them with a right good
+          will.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We saw several of the clergymen, who came out to meet us, and I
+          remember stopping, just to be introduced to a most delightful family who came
+          out, one by one, gray-headed father and mother, with comely brothers and fair
+          sisters, looking all so kindly and home-like, that I would have been glad to
+          use the welcome that they gave me to their dwelling.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This day has been a strange phenomenon to me. In the first
+          place, I have seen in all these villages how universally the people read. I
+          have seen how capable they are of a generous excitement and enthusiasm, and how
+          much may be done by a work of fiction, so written as to enlist those sympathies
+          which are common to all classes. Certainly, a great deal may be effected in
+          this way, if God gives to any one the power, as I hope he will to many. The
+          power of fictitious writing, for good as well as evil, is a thing which ought
+          most seriously to be reflected on. No one can fail to see that in our day it is
+          becoming a very great agency.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We came home quite tired, as you may well suppose. You will not
+          be surprised that the next day I found myself more disposed to keep my bed than
+          to go out. I regretted it, because, being Sunday, I would like to have heard
+          some of the preachers of Glasgow. I was, however, glad of one quiet day to
+          recall my thoughts, for I had been whirling so rapidly from scene to scene,
+          that I needed time to consider where I was; especially as we were to go to
+          Edinburgh on the morrow.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Towards sunset Mr. S. and I strolled out entirely alone to
+          breathe a little fresh air. We walked along the banks of the Kelvin, quite down
+          to its junction with the Clyde. The Kelvin Grove of the ballad is all cut away,
+          and the Kelvin flows soberly between stone walls, with a footpath on each side,
+          like a stream that has learned to behave itself.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"There," said Mr. S., as we stood on the banks of the Clyde, now
+          lying flushed and tranquil in the light of the setting sun, "over there is
+          Ayrshire."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Ayrshire!" I said; "what, where Burns lived?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Yes, there is his cottage, far down to the south, and out of
+          sight, of course; and there are the bonny banks of Ayr."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It seemed as if the evening air brought a kind of sigh with it.
+          Poor Burns! how inseparably he has woven himself with the warp and woof of
+          every Scottish association!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We saw a great many children of the poor out playing&mdash;rosy,
+          fine little urchins, worth, any one of them, a dozen bleached, hothouse
+          flowers. We stopped to hear them talk, and it was amusing to hear the Scotch of
+          Walter Scott and Burns shouted out with such a right good will. We were as much
+          struck by it as an honest Yankee was in Paris by the proficiency of the
+          children in speaking French.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next day we bade farewell to Glasgow, overwhelmed with
+          kindness to the last, and only oppressed by the thought, how little that was
+          satisfactory we were able to give in return.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Again in the railroad car on our way to Edinburgh. A pleasant
+          two hours' trip is this from Glasgow to Edinburgh. When the cars stopped at
+          Linlithgow station, the name started us as out of a dream.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There, sure enough, before our eyes, on a gentle eminence stood
+          the mouldering ruins of which Scott has sung:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Of all the palaces so fair,</p>
+            <p class="l">Built for the royal dwelling,</p>
+            <p class="l">In Scotland, far beyond compare</p>
+            <p class="l">Linlithgow is excelling;</p>
+            <p class="l">And in its park in genial June,</p>
+            <p class="l">How sweet the merry linnet's tune,</p>
+            <p class="l">How blithe the blackbird's lay!</p>
+            <p class="l">The wild buck's bells from thorny brake.</p>
+            <p class="l">The coot dives merry on the lake,&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="l">The saddest heart might pleasure take,</p>
+            <p class="l">To see a scene so gay."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Here was born that woman whose beauty and whose name are
+          set in the strong, rough Scotch heart, as a diamond in granite. Poor Mary! When
+          her father, who lay on his death bed at that time in Falkland, was told of her
+          birth, he answered, "Is it so? Then God's will be done! It [the kingdom] came
+          with a lass, and it will go with a lass!" With these words he turned his face
+          to the wall, and died of a broken heart. Certainly, some people appear to be
+          born under an evil destiny.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image12.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here, too, in Linlithgow church, tradition says that James IV.
+          was warned, by a strange apparition, against that expedition to England which
+          cost him his life. Scott has worked this incident up into a beautiful
+          description, in the fourth canto of Marmion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The castle has a very sad and romantic appearance, standing
+          there all alone as it does, looking down into the quiet lake. It is said that
+          the internal architectural decorations are exceedingly rich and beautiful, and
+          a resemblance has been traced between its style of ornament and that of
+          Heidelberg Castle, which has been accounted for by the fact that the Princess
+          Elizabeth, who was the sovereign lady of Heidelberg, spent many of the earlier
+          years of her life in this place.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Not far from here we caught a glimpse of the ruins of Niddrie
+          Castle, where Mary spent the first night after her escape from Lochleven.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Avon here at Linlithgow is spanned by a viaduct, which is a
+          fine work of art. It has twenty-five arches, which are from seventy to eighty
+          feet high and fifty wide.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As the cars neared Edinburgh we all exclaimed at its beauty, so
+          worthily commemorated by Scott:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Such dusky grandeur clothes the height,</p>
+            <p class="l">Where the huge castle holds its state,</p>
+            <p class="l">And all the steeps slope down,</p>
+            <p class="l">Whose ridgy back heaves to the sky,</p>
+            <p class="l">Piled deep and massy, close and high,</p>
+            <p class="l">Mine own romantic town!"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Edinburgh has had an effect on the literary history of the
+          world for the last fifty years, that cannot be forgotten by any one approaching
+          her. The air seemed to be full of spirits of those who, no longer living, have
+          woven a part of the thread of our existence. I do not know that the shortness
+          of human life ever so oppressed me as it did on coming near to the city.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At the station house the cars stopped amid a crowd of people,
+          who had assembled to meet us. The lord provost met us at the door of the car,
+          and presented us to the magistracy of the city, and the committees of the
+          Edinburgh antislavery societies. The drab dresses and pure white bonnets of
+          many Friends were conspicuous among the dense moving crowd, as white doves seen
+          against a dark cloud. Mr. S. and myself, and our future hostess, Mrs. Wigham,
+          entered the carriage with the lord provost, and away we drove, the crowd
+          following with their shouts and cheers. I was inexpressibly touched and
+          affected by this. While we were passing the monument of Scott, I felt an
+          oppressive melancholy. What a moment life seems in the presence of the noble
+          dead! What a momentary thing is art, in all its beauty! Where are all those
+          great souls that have created such an atmosphere of light about Edinburgh? and
+          how little a space was given them to live and to enjoy!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We drove all over Edinburgh, up to the castle, to the
+          university, to Holyrood, to the hospitals, and through many of the principal
+          streets, amid shouts, and smiles, and greetings. Some boys amused me very much
+          by their pertinacious attempts to keep up with the carriage.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Heck," says one of them, "that's <em>her</em>; see the
+          <em>courls</em>."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The various engravers, who have amused themselves by
+          diversifying my face for the public, having all, with great unanimity, agreed
+          in giving prominence to this point, I suppose the urchins thought they were on
+          safe ground there. I certainly think I answered one good purpose that day, and
+          that is, of giving the much oppressed and calumniated class, called boys, an
+          opportunity to develop all the noise that was in them&mdash;a thing for which I
+          think they must bless me in their remembrances.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At last the carriage drove into a deep gravelled yard, and we
+          alighted at a porch covered with green ivy, and found ourselves once more at
+          home.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_23" name="toc_23"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter VI.</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          Sister</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">You may spare your anxieties about me, for I do assure you, that
+          if I were an old Sevres China jar, I could not have more careful handling than
+          I do. Every body is considerate; a great deal to say, when there appears to be
+          so much excitement. Every body seems to understand how good for nothing I am;
+          and yet, with all this consideration, I have been obliged to keep my room and
+          bed for a good part of the time. One agreeable feature of the matter is, it
+          gave me an opportunity to make the acquaintance of the celebrated homoeopathic
+          physician, Dr. Henderson, in whose experiments and experience I had taken some
+          interest while in America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Of the multitudes who have called, I have seen scarcely any.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mrs. W., with whom I am staying, is a most thoughtful nurse.
+          They are Friends, and nothing can be more a pattern of rational home enjoyment,
+          without ostentation and without parade, than a Quaker family.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Though they reject every thing in arrangement which savors of
+          ostentation and worldly show, yet their homes are exquisite in point of
+          comfort. They make great use of flowers and natural specimens in adorning their
+          apartments, and also indulge to a chaste and moderate extent in engravings and
+          works of art. So far as I have observed, they are all "tee-totalers;" giving,
+          in this respect, the whole benefit of their example to the temperance
+          cause.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To-morrow evening is to be the great tea party here. How in the
+          world I am ever to live through it, I don't know.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The amount of letters we found waiting for us here in Edinburgh
+          was, if possible, more appalling than in Glasgow. Among those from persons whom
+          you would be interested in hearing of, I may mention, a very kind and beautiful
+          one from the Duchess of Sutherland, and one also from the Earl of Carlisle,
+          both desiring to make appointments for meeting us as soon as we come to London.
+          Also a very kind and interesting note from the Rev. Mr. Kingsley and lady. I
+          look forward with a great deal of interest to passing a little time with them
+          in their rectory. Letters also from Mr. Binney and Mr. Sherman, two of the
+          leading Congregational clergymen of London. The latter officiates at Surrey
+          Chapel, which was established by Rowland Hill. Both contain invitations to us
+          to visit them in London.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to all engagements, I am in a state of happy acquiescence,
+          having resigned myself, as a very tame lion, into the hands of my keepers.
+          Whenever the time comes for me to do any thing, I try to behave as well as I
+          can, which, as Dr. Young says, is all that an angel could do in the same
+          circumstances.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to these letters, many of them are mere outbursts of feeling;
+          yet they are interesting as showing the state of the public mind. Many of them
+          are on kindred topics of moral reform, in which they seem to have an intuitive
+          sense that we should be interested. I am not, of course, able to answer them
+          all, but C&mdash;&mdash; does, and it takes a good part of every day. One was
+          from a shoemaker's wife in one of the islands, with a copy of very fair verses.
+          Many have come accompanying little keepsakes and gifts. It seems to me rather
+          touching and sad, that people should want to give me things, when I am not able
+          to give an interview, or even a note, in return. C&mdash;&mdash; wrote from six
+          to twelve o'clock, steadily, answering letters.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">April 26. Last night came off the <em>soir&eacute;e</em>. The
+          hall was handsomely decorated with flags in front. We went with the lord
+          provost in his carriage. The getting in to the hall is quite an affair, I
+          assure you, the doorway is blocked up by such a dense crowd; yet there is
+          something very touching about these crowds. They open very gently and quietly,
+          and they do not look at you with a rude stare, but with faces full of feeling
+          and intelligence. I have seen some looks that were really beautiful; they go to
+          my heart. The common people appear as if they knew that our hearts were with
+          them. How else should it be, as Christians of America?&mdash;a country which,
+          but for one fault, all the world has reason to love.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went up, as before, into a dressing room, where I was
+          presented to many gentlemen and ladies. When we go in, the cheering, clapping,
+          and stamping at first strikes one with a strange sensation; but then every body
+          looks so heartily pleased and delighted, and there is such an all-pervading
+          atmosphere of geniality and sympathy, as makes one in a few moments feel quite
+          at home. After all I consider that these cheers and applauses, are Scotland's
+          voice to America, a recognition of the brotherhood of the countries.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were arranged at this meeting much as in Glasgow. The lord
+          provost presided; and in the gallery with us were distinguished men from the
+          magistracy, the university, and the ministry, with their wives, besides the
+          members of the antislavery societies. The lord provost, I am told, has been
+          particularly efficient in all benevolent operations, especially those for the
+          education of the poorer classes. He is also a zealous supporter of the
+          temperance cause.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Among the speakers, I was especially interested in Dr. Guthrie,
+          who seems to be also a particular favorite of the public. He is a tall, thin
+          man, with a kind of quaintness in his mode of expressing himself, which
+          sometimes gives an air of drollery to his speaking. He is a minister of the
+          Free Church, and has more particularly distinguished himself by his exertions
+          in behalf of the poorer classes.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One passage in his speech I will quote, for I was quite amused
+          with it. It was in allusion to the retorts which had been made in Mrs. Tyler's
+          letter to the ladies of England, on the defects in the old country.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I do not deny," he said, "that there are defects in our
+          country. What I say of them is this&mdash;that they are incidental very much to
+          an old country like our own. Dr. Simpson knows very well, and so does every
+          medical man, that when a man gets old he gets very infirm, his blood vessels
+          get ossified, and so on; but I shall not enter into that part of the subject.
+          What is true of an old country is true of old men, and old women, too. I am
+          very much disposed to say of this young nation of America, that their teasing
+          us with our defects might just get the answer which a worthy member of the
+          church of Scotland gave to his son, who was so dissatisfied with the defects in
+          the church, that he was determined to go over to a younger communion. 'Ah,
+          Sandy, Sandy, man, when your lum reeks as lang as ours, it will, may be, need
+          sweeping too.'<a href="#note_10"><span class="footnoteref">10</span></a> Now, I
+          do not deny that we need sweeping; every body knows that I have been singing
+          out about sweeping for the last five years. Let me tell my good friends in
+          Edinburgh, and in the country, that the sooner you sweep the better; for the
+          chimney may catch fire, and reduce your noble fabric to ashes.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"They told us in that letter about the poor needlewomen, that
+          had to work sixteen hours a day. ''Tis true, and pity 'tis 'tis true.' But does
+          the law compel them to work sixteen hours a day? I would like to ask the writer
+          of the letter. Are they bound down to their garrets and cellars for sixteen
+          hours a day? May they not go where they like, and ask better wages and better
+          work? Can the slave do that? Do they tell us of our ragged children? I know
+          something about ragged children. But are our ragged children condemned to the
+          street? If I, or the lord provost, or any other benevolent man, should take one
+          of them from the street and bring it to the school, dare the
+          policeman&mdash;miscalled officer of justice&mdash;put his foot across the door
+          to drag it out again to the street? Nobody means to defend our defects; does
+          any man attempt to defend them? Were not these noble ladies and excellent
+          women, titled and untitled, among the very first to seek to redress them?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I wish I could give you the strong, broad Scotch accent.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The national penny offering, consisting of a thousand golden
+          sovereigns on a magnificent silver salver, stood conspicuously in view of the
+          audience. It has been an unsolicited offering, given in the smallest sums,
+          often from the extreme poverty of the giver. The committee who collected it in
+          Edinburgh and Glasgow bore witness to the willingness with which the very
+          poorest contributed the offering of their sympathy. In one cottage they found a
+          blind woman, and said, "Here, at least, is one who will feel no interest, as
+          she cannot have read the book."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Indeed," said the old lady, "if I cannot read, my son has read
+          it to me, and I've got my penny saved to give."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is to my mind extremely touching to see how the poor, in
+          their poverty, can be moved to a generosity surpassing that of the rich. Nor do
+          I mourn that they took it from their slender store, because I know that a penny
+          given from a kindly impulse is a greater comfort and blessing to the poorest
+          giver than even a penny received.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As in the case of the other meeting, we came out long before the
+          speeches were ended. Well, of course, I did not sleep any all night. The next
+          day I felt quite miserable. Mrs. W. went with Mr. S. and myself for a quiet
+          drive in her carriage.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was a beautiful, sunny day that we drove out to Craigmiller
+          Castle, formerly one of the royal residences. It was here that Mary retreated
+          after the murder of Rizzio, and where, the chronicler says, she was often heard
+          in those days wishing that she were in her grave. It seems so strange to see it
+          standing there all alone, in the midst of grassy fields, so silent, and cold,
+          and solitary. I got out of the carriage and walked about it. The short, green
+          grass was gemmed with daisies, and sheep were peacefully feeding and resting,
+          where was once all the life and bustle of a court.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We had no one to open the inside of the castle for us, where
+          there are still some tolerably preserved rooms, but we strolled listlessly
+          about, looking through the old arches, and peeping through slits and loopholes
+          into the interior.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The last verse of Queen Mary's lamentation seemed to be sighing
+          in the air:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"O, soon for me shall simmer's suns</p>
+            <p class="l">Nae mair light up the morn;</p>
+            <p class="l">Nae mair for me the autumn wind</p>
+            <p class="l">Wave o'er the yellow corn.</p>
+            <p class="l">But in the narrow house of death</p>
+            <p class="l">Let winter round me rave,</p>
+            <p class="l">And the next flowers that deck the spring</p>
+            <p class="l">Bloom on my peaceful grave."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Only yesterday, it seemed, since that poor heart was
+          yearning and struggling, caught in the toils of this sorrowful life. How many
+          times she looked on this landscape through sad eyes! I suppose just such little
+          daisies grew here in the grass then, and perhaps she stooped and picked them,
+          wishing, just as I do, that the pink did not grow on the under side of them,
+          where it does not show. Do you know that this little daisy is the
+          <em>gowan</em> of Scotch poetry? So I was told by a "charming young Jessie" in
+          Glasgow, one day when I was riding out there.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The view from Craigmiller is beautiful&mdash;Auld Reekie,
+          Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Crags, and far down the Frith of Forth, where we can
+          just dimly see the Bass Hock, celebrated as a prison, where the Covenanters
+          were immured.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was this fortress that Habakkuk Mucklewrath speaks of in his
+          ravings, when he says, "Am not I Habakkuk Mucklewrath, whose name is changed to
+          Magor-Missabib, because I am made a terror unto myself, and unto all that are
+          around me? I heard it: when did I hear it? Was it not in the tower of the Bass,
+          that overhangeth the wide, wild sea? and it howled in the winds, and it roared
+          in the billows, and it screamed, and it whistled, and it clanged, with the
+          screams, and the clang, and the whistle of the sea birds, as they floated, and
+          flew, and dropped, and dived, on the bosom of the waters."</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image13.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">These Salisbury Crags, which overlook Edinburgh, have a very
+          peculiar outline; they resemble an immense elephant crouching down. We passed
+          Mushats Cairn, where Jeanie Deans met Robertson; and saw Liberton, where Reuben
+          Butler was a schoolmaster. Nobody doubts, I hope, the historical accuracy of
+          these points.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Thursday, 21st. We took cars for Aberdeen. The appropriation of
+          old historical names to railroad stations often reminds me of Hood's whimsical
+          lines on a possible railroad in the Holy Land. Think of having Bannockburn
+          shouted by the station master, as the train runs whistling up to a small
+          station house. Nothing to be seen there but broad, silent meadows, through
+          which the burn wimples its way. Here was the very Marathon of Scotland. I
+          suppose we know more about it from the "Scots wha ha' wi' Wallace bled," than
+          we do from history; yet the real scene, as narrated by the historian, has a
+          moral grandeur in it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The chronicler tells us, that when on this occasion the Scots
+          formed their line of battle, and a venerable abbot passed along, holding up the
+          cross before them, the whole army fell upon their knees.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"These Scots will not fight," said Edward, who was reconnoitring
+          at a distance. "See! they are all on their knees now to beg for mercy."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"They kneel," said a lord who stood by, "but it is to God alone;
+          trust me, those men will win or die."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The bold lyric of Burns is but an inspired kind of version of
+          the real address which Bruce is said to have made to his followers; and whoever
+          reads it will see that its power lies not in appeal to brute force, but to the
+          highest elements of our nature, the love of justice, the sense of honor, and to
+          disinterestedness, self-sacrifice, courage unto death.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These things will live and form high and imperishable elements
+          of our nature, when mankind have learned to develop them in other spheres than
+          that of physical force. Burns's lyric, therefore, has in it an element which
+          may rouse the heart to noble endurance and devotion, even when the world shall
+          learn war no more.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We passed through the town of Stirling, whose castle,
+          magnificently seated on a rocky throne, looks right worthy to have been the
+          seat of Scotland's court, as it was for many years. It brought to our minds all
+          the last scenes of the Lady of the Lake, which are laid here with a minuteness
+          of local description and allusion characteristic of Scott.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">According to our guide book, one might find there the visible
+          counterpart of every thing which he has woven into his beautiful
+          fiction&mdash;"the Lady's Rock, which rang to the applause of the multitude;"
+          "the Franciscan steeple, which pealed the merry festival;" "the sad and fatal
+          mound," apostrophized by Douglas,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"That oft has heard the death-axe sound</p>
+            <p class="l">As on the noblest of the land,</p>
+            <p class="l">Fell the stern headsman's bloody hand;"&mdash;</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">the room in the castle, where "a Douglas by his sovereign
+          bled;" and not far off the ruins of Cambuskenneth Abbey. One could not but
+          think of the old days Scott has described.</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The castle gates were open flung,</p>
+            <p class="l">The quivering drawbridge rocked and rung,</p>
+            <p class="l">And echoed loud the flinty street</p>
+            <p class="l">Beneath the coursers' clattering feet,</p>
+            <p class="l">As slowly down the steep descent</p>
+            <p class="l">Fair Scotland's king and nobles went,</p>
+            <p class="l">While all along the crowded way</p>
+            <p class="l">Was jubilee and loud huzza."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The place has been long deserted as a palace; but it is one
+          of the four fortresses, which, by the articles of union between Scotland and
+          England, are always to be kept in repair.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We passed by the town of Perth, the scene of the "Fair Maid's"
+          adventures. We had received an invitation to visit it, but for want of time
+          were obliged to defer it till our return to Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Somewhere along here Mr. S. was quite excited by our proximity
+          to Scone, the old crowning-place of the Scottish kings; however, the old castle
+          is entirely demolished, and superseded by a modern mansion, the seat of the
+          Earl of Mansfield.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Still farther on, surrounded by dark and solemn woods, stands
+          Glamis Castle, the scene of the tragedy in Macbeth. We could see but a glimpse
+          of it from the road, but the very sound of the name was enough to stimulate our
+          imagination. It is still an inhabited dwelling, though much to the regret of
+          antiquarians and lovers of the picturesque, the characteristic outworks and
+          defences of the feudal ages, which surrounded it, have been levelled, and
+          velvet lawns and gravel walks carried to the very door. Scott, who passed a
+          night there in 1793, while it was yet in its pristine condition, comments on
+          the change mournfully, as undoubtedly a true lover of the past would. Albeit
+          the grass plats and the gravel walks, to the eye of sense, are undoubtedly much
+          more agreeable and convenient. Scott says in his Demonology, that he never came
+          any where near to being overcome with a superstitious feeling, except twice in
+          his life, and one was on the night when he slept in Glamis Castle. The poetical
+          and the practical elements in Scott's mind ran together, side by side, without
+          mixing, as evidently as the waters of the Alleghany and Monongahela at
+          Pittsburg. Scarcely ever a man had so much relish for the supernatural, and so
+          little faith in it. One must confess, however, that the most sceptical might
+          have been overcome at Glamis Castle, for its appearance, by all accounts, is
+          weird and strange, and ghostly enough to start the dullest imagination.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On this occasion Scott says, "After a very hospitable reception
+          from the late Peter Proctor, seneschal of the castle, I was conducted to my
+          apartment in a distant part of the building. I must own, that when I heard door
+          after door shut, after my conductor had retired, I began to consider myself as
+          too far from the living, and somewhat too near the dead. We had passed through
+          what is called 'the King's Room,' a vaulted apartment, garnished with stags'
+          antlers and similar trophies of the chase, and said by tradition to be the spot
+          of Malcolm's murder, and I had an idea of the vicinity of the castle chapel. In
+          spite of the truth of history, the whole night scene in Macbeth's castle rushed
+          at once upon my mind, and struck my imagination more forcibly than even when I
+          have seen its terrors represented by the late John Kemble and his inimitable
+          sister. In a word, I experienced sensations which, though not remarkable either
+          for timidity or superstition, did not fail to affect me to the point of being
+          disagreeable, while they were mingled at the same time with a strange and
+          indescribable kind of pleasure."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Externally, the building is quaint and singular enough; tall and
+          gaunt, crested with innumerable little pepper box turrets and conical towers,
+          like an old French chateau.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Besides the tragedy of Macbeth, another story of still more
+          melancholy interest is connected with it, which a pen like that of Hawthorne,
+          might work up with gloomy power.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In 1537 the young and beautiful Lady Glamis of this place was
+          actually tried and executed for witchcraft. Only think, now! what capabilities
+          in this old castle, with its gloomy pine shades, quaint architecture, and weird
+          associations, with this bit of historic verity to start upon.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image14.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">Walter Scott says, there is in the castle a secret chamber; the
+          entrance to which, by the law of the family, can be known only to three persons
+          at once&mdash;the lord of the castle, his heir apparent, and any third person
+          whom they might choose to take into their confidence. See, now, the materials
+          which the past gives to the novelist or poet in these old countries. These
+          ancient castles are standing romances, made to the author's hands. The castle
+          started a talk upon Shakspeare, and how much of the tragedy he made up, and how
+          much he found ready to his hand in tradition and history. It seems the story is
+          all told in Holingshed's Chronicles; but his fertile mind has added some of the
+          most thrilling touches, such as the sleep walking of Lady Macbeth. It always
+          seemed to me that this tragedy had more of the melancholy majesty and power of
+          the Greek than any thing modern. The striking difference is, that while fate
+          was the radical element of those, free will is not less distinctly the basis of
+          this. Strangely enough, while it commences with a supernatural oracle, there is
+          not a trace of fatalism in it; but through all, a clear, distinct recognition
+          of moral responsibility, of the power to resist evil, and the guilt of yielding
+          to it. The theology of Shakspeare is as remarkable as his poetry. A strong and
+          clear sense of man's moral responsibility and free agency, and of certain
+          future retribution, runs through all his plays.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I enjoyed this ride to Aberdeen more than any thing we had seen
+          yet, the country is so wild and singular. In the afternoon we came in sight of
+          the German Ocean. The free, bracing air from the sea, and the thought that it
+          actually <em>was</em> the German Ocean, and that over the other side was
+          Norway, within a day's sail of us, gave it a strange, romantic charm.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Suppose we just run over to Norway," said one of us; and then
+          came the idea, what we should do if we got over there, seeing none of us
+          understood Norse.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The whole coast along here is wild and rock-bound; occasionally
+          long points jut into the sea; the blue waves sparkle and dash against them in
+          little jets of foam, and the sea birds dive and scream around them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On one of these points, near the town of Stonehaven, are still
+          seen the ruins of Dunottar Castle, bare and desolate, surrounded on all sides
+          by the restless, moaning waves; a place justly held accursed as the scene of
+          cruelties to the Covenanters, so appalling and brutal as to make the blood boil
+          in the recital, even in this late day.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">During the reigns of Charles and James, sovereigns whom Macaulay
+          justly designates as Belial and Moloch, this castle was the state prison for
+          confining this noble people. In the reign of James, one hundred and sixty-seven
+          prisoners, men, women, and children, for refusing the oath of supremacy, were
+          arrested at their firesides: herded together like cattle; driven at the point
+          of the bayonet, amid the gibes, jeers, and scoffs of soldiers, up to this
+          dreary place, and thrust promiscuously into a dark vault in this castle; almost
+          smothered in filth and mire; a prey to pestilent disease, and to every
+          malignity which brutality could inflict, they died here unpitied. A few
+          escaping down the rocks were recaptured, and subjected to shocking
+          tortures.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A moss-grown gravestone, in the parish churchyard of Dunottar,
+          shows the last resting-place of these sufferers.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Walter Scott, who visited this place, says, "The peasantry
+          continue to attach to the tombs of these victims an honor which they do not
+          render to more splendid mausoleums; and when they point them out to their sons,
+          and narrate the fate of the sufferers, usually conclude by exhorting them to be
+          ready, should the times call for it, to resist to the death in the cause of
+          civil and religious liberty, like their brave forefathers."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is also related by Gilfillan, that a minister from this
+          vicinity, having once lost his way in travelling through a distant part of
+          Scotland, vainly solicited the services of a guide for some time, all being
+          engaged in peat-cutting; at last one of the farmers, some of whose ancestors
+          had been included among the sufferers, discovering that he came from this
+          vicinity, had seen the gravestones, and could repeat the inscriptions, was
+          willing to give up half a day's work to guide him on his way.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is well that such spots should be venerated as sacred shrines
+          among the descendants of the Covenanters, to whom Scotland owes what she is,
+          and all she may become.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was here that Scott first became acquainted with Robert
+          Paterson, the original of Old Mortality.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Leaving Stonehaven we passed, on a rising ground a little to our
+          left, the house of the celebrated Barclay of Ury. It remains very much in its
+          ancient condition, surrounded by a low stone wall, like the old fortified
+          houses of Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Barclay of Ury was an old and distinguished soldier, who had
+          fought under Gustavus Adolphus in Germany, and one of the earliest converts to
+          the principles of the Friends in Scotland. As a Quaker, he became an object of
+          hatred and abuse at the hands of the magistracy and populace; but he endured
+          all these insults and injuries with the greatest patience and nobleness of
+          soul.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I find more satisfaction," he said, "as well as honor, in being
+          thus insulted for my religious principles, than when, a few years ago, it was
+          usual for the magistrates, as I passed the city of Aberdeen, to meet me on the
+          road and conduct me to public entertainment in their hall, and then escort me
+          out again, to gain my favor."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Whittier has celebrated this incident in his beautiful ballad,
+          called "Barclay of Ury." The son of this Barclay was the author of that Apology
+          which bears his name, and is still a standard work among the Friends. The
+          estate is still possessed by his descendants.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A little farther along towards Aberdeen, Mr. S. seemed to amuse
+          himself very much with the idea, that we were coming near to Dugald Dalgetty's
+          estate of Drumthwacket, an historical remembrance which I take to be somewhat
+          apocryphal.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was towards the close of the afternoon that we found
+          ourselves crossing the Dee, in view of Aberdeen. My spirits were wonderfully
+          elated: the grand sea scenery and fine bracing air; the noble, distant view of
+          the city, rising with its harbor and shipping, all filled me with delight.
+          Besides which the Dee had been enchanted for me from my childhood, by a wild
+          old ballad which I used to hear sung to a Scottish tune, equally wild and
+          pathetic. I repeated it to C&mdash;&mdash;, and will now to you.</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The moon had climbed the highest hill</p>
+            <p class="l">That rises o'er the banks of Dee,</p>
+            <p class="l">And from her farthest summit poured</p>
+            <p class="l">Her silver light o'er tower and tree,&mdash;</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">When Mary laid her down to sleep,</p>
+            <p class="l">Her thoughts on Sandy far at sea,</p>
+            <p class="l">And soft and low a voice she heard,</p>
+            <p class="l">Saying, 'Mary, weep no more for me.'</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">She from her pillow gently raised</p>
+            <p class="l">Her head, to see who there might be;</p>
+            <p class="l">She saw young Sandy shivering stand,</p>
+            <p class="l">With pallid cheek and hollow ee.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">'O Mary dear, cold is my clay;</p>
+            <p class="l">It lies beneath the stormy sea;</p>
+            <p class="l">The storm, is past, and I'm at rest;</p>
+            <p class="l">So, Mary, weep no more for me.'</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">Loud crew the cock; the vision fled;</p>
+            <p class="l">No more young Sandy could she see;</p>
+            <p class="l">But soft a parting whisper said,</p>
+            <p class="l">'Sweet Mary, weep no more for me.'"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I never saw these lines in print any where; I never knew
+          who wrote them; I had only heard them sung at the fireside when a child, to a
+          tune as dreamy and sweet as themselves; but they rose upon me like an
+          enchantment, as I crossed the Dee, in view of that very German Ocean, famed for
+          its storms and shipwrecks.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In this propitious state, disposed to be pleased with every
+          thing, our hearts responded warmly to the greetings of the many friends who
+          were waiting for us at the station house.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The lord provost received us into his carriage, and as we drove
+          along, pointed out to us the various objects of interest in the beautiful town.
+          Among other things, a fine old bridge across the Dee attracted our particular
+          attention.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were conducted to the house of Mr. Cruikshank, a Friend, and
+          found waiting for us there the thoughtful hospitality which we had ever
+          experienced in all our stopping-places. A snug little quiet supper was laid out
+          upon the table, of which we partook in haste, as we were informed that the
+          assembly at the hall were waiting to receive us.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There arrived, we found the hall crowded, and with difficulty
+          made our way to the platform. Whether owing to the stimulating effect of the
+          air from the ocean, or to the comparatively social aspect of the scene, or
+          perhaps to both, certain it is, that we enjoyed the meeting with great zest. I
+          was surrounded on the stage with blooming young ladies, one of whom put into my
+          hands a beautiful bouquet, some flowers of which I have now dried in my album.
+          The refreshment tables were adorned with some exquisite wax flowers, the work,
+          as I was afterwards told, of a young lady in the place. One of the designs
+          especially interested me. It was a group of water lilies resting on a mirror,
+          which gave them the appearance of growing in the water.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We had some very animated speaking, in which the speakers
+          contrived to blend enthusiastic admiration and love for America with
+          detestation of slavery.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All the afternoon the beautiful coast had reminded me of the
+          State of Maine, and the genius of the meeting confirmed the association. They
+          seemed to me to be a plain, genial, strong, warm-hearted people, like those of
+          Maine.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One of the speakers concluded his address by saying that John
+          Bull and Brother Jonathan, with Paddy and Sandy Scott, should they clasp hands
+          together, might stand against the world; which sentiment was responded to with
+          thunders of applause.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is because America, like Scotland, has stood for right
+          against oppression, that the Scotch love and sympathize with her. For this
+          reason do they feel it as something taken from the strength of a common cause,
+          when America sides with injustice and oppression. The children of the Covenant
+          and the children of the Puritans are of one blood.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">They presented an offering in a beautiful embroidered purse, and
+          after much shaking of hands we went home, and sat down to the supper table, for
+          a little more chat, before going to bed. The next morning,&mdash;as we had only
+          till noon to stay in Aberdeen,&mdash;our friends, the lord provost, and Mr.
+          Leslie, the architect, came immediately after breakfast to show us the
+          place.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The town of Aberdeen is a very fine one, and owes much of its
+          beauty to the light-colored granite of which most of the houses are built. It
+          has broad, clean, beautiful streets, and many very curious and interesting
+          public buildings. The town exhibits that union of the hoary past with the
+          bustling present which is characteristic of the old world.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It has two parts, the old and the new, as unlike as L'Allegro
+          and Penseroso&mdash;the new, clean, and modern; the old, mossy and dreamy. The
+          old town is called Alton, and has venerable houses, standing, many of them, in
+          ancient gardens. And here rises the peculiar, old, gray cathedral. These Scotch
+          cathedrals have a sort of stubbed appearance, and look like the expression in
+          stone of defiant, invincible resolution. This is of primitive granite, in the
+          same heavy, massive style as the cathedral of Glasgow, but having strong
+          individualities of its own.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Whoever located the ecclesiastical buildings of England and
+          Scotland certainly had an exquisite perception of natural scenery; for one
+          notices that they are almost invariably placed on just that point of the
+          landscape, where the poet or the artist would say they should be. These
+          cathedrals, though all having a general similarity of design, seem, each one,
+          to have its own personality, as much as a human being. Looking at nineteen of
+          them is no compensation to you for omitting the twentieth; there will certainly
+          be something new and peculiar in that.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This Aberdeen Cathedral, or Cathedral of St. Machar, is situated
+          on the banks of the River Don; one of those beautiful amber-brown rivers that
+          color the stones and pebbles at the bottom with a yellow light, such as one
+          sees in ancient pictures. Old trees wave and rustle around, and the building
+          itself, though a part of it has fallen into ruins, has, in many parts, a
+          wonderful clearness and sharpness of outline. I cannot describe these things to
+          you; architectural terms convey no picture to the mind. I can only tell you of
+          the character and impression it bears&mdash;a character of strong, unflinching
+          endurance, appropriately reminding one of the Scotch people, whom Walter Scott
+          compares to the native sycamore of their hills, "which scorns to be biased in
+          its mode of growth, even by the influence of the prevailing wind, but shooting
+          its branches with equal boldness in every direction, shows no weather side to
+          the storm, and may be broken, but can never be bended."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One reason for the sharpness and distinctness of the
+          architectural preservation of this cathedral is probably that closeness of
+          texture for which Aberdeen granite is remarkable. It bears marks of the hand of
+          violence in many parts. The images of saints and bishops, which lie on their
+          backs with clasped hands, seem to have been wofully maltreated and despoiled,
+          in the fervor of those days, when people fondly thought that breaking down
+          carved work was getting rid of superstition. These granite saints and bishops,
+          with their mutilated fingers and broken noses, seem to be bearing a silent,
+          melancholy witness against that disposition in human nature, which, instead of
+          making clean the cup and platter, breaks them altogether.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The roof of the cathedral is a splendid specimen of carving in
+          black oak, wrought in panels, with leaves and inscriptions in ancient text. The
+          church could once boast in other parts (so says an architectural work) a
+          profusion of carved woodwork of the same character, which must have greatly
+          relieved the massive plainness of the interior.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In 1649, the parish minister attacked the "High Altar," a piece
+          of the most splendid workmanship of any thing of the kind in Europe, and which
+          had to that time remained inviolate; perhaps from the insensible influence of
+          its beauty. It is said that the carpenter employed for the purpose was so
+          struck with the noble workmanship, that he refused to touch it till the
+          minister took the hatchet from his hand and gave the first blow.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These men did not consider that "the leprosy lies deep within,"
+          and that when human nature is denied beautiful idols, it will go after ugly
+          ones. There has been just as unspiritual a resting in coarse, bare, and
+          disagreeable adjuncts of religion, as in beautiful and agreeable ones; men have
+          worshipped Juggernaut as pertinaciously as they have Venus or the Graces; so
+          that the good divine might better have aimed a sermon at the heart than an axe
+          at the altar.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We lingered a long time around here, and could scarcely tear
+          ourselves away. We paced up and down under the old trees, looking off on the
+          waters of the Don, listening to the waving branches, and falling into a dreamy
+          state of mind, thought what if it were six hundred years ago! and we were pious
+          simple hearted old abbots! What a fine place that would be to walk up and down
+          at eventide or on a Sabbath morning, reciting the penitential psalms, or
+          reading St. Augustine!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I cannot get over the feeling, that the souls of the dead do
+          somehow connect themselves with the places of their former habitation, and that
+          the hush and thrill of spirit, which we feel in them, may be owing to the
+          overshadowing presence of the invisible. St. Paul says, "We are compassed about
+          with a great cloud of witnesses." How can they be witnesses, if they cannot see
+          and be cognizant?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We left the place by a winding walk, to go to the famous bridge
+          of Balgounie, another dream-land affair, not far from here. It is a single gray
+          stone arch, apparently cut from solid rock, that spans the brown rippling
+          waters, where wild, overhanging banks, shadowy trees, and dipping wild flowers,
+          all conspire to make a romantic picture. This bridge, with the river and
+          scenery, were poetic items that went, with other things, to form the sensitive
+          mind of Byron, who lived here in his earlier days. He has some lines about
+          it:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"As 'auld lang syne' brings Scotland, one and all,</p>
+            <p class="l">Scotch, plaids, Scotch snoods, the blue hills and clear
+            streams,</p>
+            <p class="l">The Dee, the Don, Balgounie's brig's black wall,</p>
+            <p class="l">All my boy-feelings, all my gentler dreams,</p>
+            <p class="l">Of what I then dreamt clothed in their own pall,</p>
+            <p class="l">Like Banquo's offspring,&mdash;floating past me seems</p>
+            <p class="l">My childhood, in this childishness of mind:</p>
+            <p class="l">I care not&mdash;'tis a glimpse of 'auld lang syne.'"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image15.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">This old bridge has a prophecy connected with it, which was
+          repeated to us, and you shall have it literatim:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Brig of Balgounie, black's your wa',</p>
+            <p class="l">Wi' a wife's ae son, and a mare's a foal,</p>
+            <p class="l">Doon ye shall fa'!"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The bridge was built in the time of Robert Bruce, by one
+          Bishop Cheyne, of whom all that I know is, that he evidently had a good eye for
+          the picturesque.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After this we went to visit King's College. The tower of it is
+          surmounted by a massive stone crown, which forms a very singular feature in
+          every view of Aberdeen, and is said to be a perfectly unique specimen of
+          architecture. This King's College is very old, being founded also by a bishop,
+          as far back as the fifteenth century. It has an exquisitely carved roof, and
+          carved oaken seats. We went through the library, the hall, and the museum.
+          Certainly, the old, dark architecture of these universities must tend to form a
+          different style of mind from our plain matter-of-fact college buildings.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here in Aberdeen is the veritable Marischal College, so often
+          quoted by Dugald Dalgetty. We had not time to go and see it, but I can assure
+          you on the authority of the guide book, that it is a magnificent specimen of
+          architecture.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After this, that we might not neglect the present in our zeal
+          for the past, we went to the marble yards, where they work the Aberdeen
+          granite. This granite, of which we have many specimens in America, is of two
+          kinds, one being gray, the other of a reddish hue. It seems to differ from
+          other granite in the fineness and closeness of its grain, which enables it to
+          receive the most brilliant conceivable polish. I saw some superb columns of the
+          red species, which were preparing to go over the Baltic to Riga, for an
+          Exchange; and a sepulchral monument, which was going to New York. All was busy
+          here, sawing, chipping, polishing; as different a scene from the gray old
+          cathedral as could be imagined. The granite finds its way, I suppose, to
+          countries which the old, unsophisticated abbots never dreamed of.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One of the friends who had accompanied us during the morning
+          tour was the celebrated architect, Mr. Leslie, whose conversation gave us all
+          much enjoyment. He and Mrs. Leslie gave me a most invaluable parting present,
+          to wit, four volumes of engravings, representing the "Baronial and
+          Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland," illustrated by Billings. I cannot tell
+          you what a mine of pleasure it has been to me. It is a proof edition, and the
+          engravings are so vivid, and the drawing so fine, that it is nearly as good as
+          reality. It might almost save one the trouble of a pilgrimage. I consider the
+          book a kind of national poem; for architecture is, in its nature, poetry;
+          especially in these old countries, where it weaves into itself a nation's
+          history, and gives literally the image and body of the times.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_24" name="toc_24"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter VII</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear
+          Cousin</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">While here in Aberdeen I received a very odd letter, so peculiar
+          and curious that I will give you the benefit of it. The author appears to be,
+          in his way, a kind of Christopher in his cave, or Timon of Athens. I omit some
+          parts which are more expressive than agreeable. It is dated</p>
+          <div class="display">
+            <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right">"STONEHAVEN, N.B.,
+            Kincardineshire,</p>
+            <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right">57&deg; N.W. This 21st April,
+            1853.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"To <span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mrs.
+            Harriet B. Stowe</span>:&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"My dear Madam: By the time that this gets your length, the
+            fouk o' Aberdeen will be shewin ye off as a rare animal, just arrived frae
+            America; the wife that writ Uncle Tom's Cabin.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"I wad like to see ye mysel, but I canna win for want o'
+            siller, and as I thought ye might be writin a buke about the Scotch when ye
+            get hame, I hae just sent ye this bit auld key to Sawney's Cabin.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Well then, dinna forget to speer at the Aberdeenians if it be
+            true they ance kidnappet little laddies, and selt them for slaves; that they
+            dang down the Quaker's kirkyard dyke, and houket up dead Quakers out o' their
+            graves; that the young boys at the college printed a buke, and maist naebody
+            wad buy it, and they cam out to Ury, near Stonehaven, and took twelve stots
+            frae Davie Barclay to pay the printer.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Dinna forget to speer at &mdash;&mdash;, if it was true that
+            he flogget three laddies in the beginning o' last year, for the three
+            following crimes: first, for the crime of being born of puir, ignorant
+            parents; second, for the crime of being left in ignorance; and, third, for
+            the crime of having nothing to eat.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Dinna be telling when ye gang hame that ye rode on the
+            Aberdeen railway, made by a hundred men, who were all in the Stonehaven
+            prison for drunkenness; nor above five could sign their names.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"If the Scotch kill ye with ower feeding and making speeches,
+            be sure to send this hame to tell your fouk, that it was Queen Elizabeth who
+            made the first European law to buy and sell human beings like brute beasts.
+            She was England's glory as a Protestant, and Scotland's shame as the murderer
+            of their bonnie Mary. The auld hag skulked away like a coward in the hour of
+            death. Mary, on the other hand, with calmness and dignity, repeated a Latin
+            prayer to the Great Spirit and Author of her being, and calmly resigned
+            herself into the hands of her murderers.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"In the capital of her ancient kingdom, when ye are in our
+            country, there are eight hundred women, sent to prison every year for the
+            first time. Of fifteen thousand prisoners examined in Scotland in the year
+            1845, eight thousand could not write at all, and three thousand could not
+            read.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"At present there are about twenty thousand prisoners in
+            Scotland. In Stonehaven they are fed at about seventeen pounds each,
+            annually. The honest poor, outside the prison upon the parish roll, are fed
+            at the rate of five farthings a day, or two pounds a year. The employment of
+            the prisoners is grinding the wind, we ca' it; turning the crank, in plain
+            English. The latest improvement is the streekin board; it's a whig
+            improvement o' Lord Jonnie Russell's.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"I ken brawly ye are a curious wife, and would like to ken a'
+            about the Scotch bodies. Weel, they are a gay, ignorant, proud, drunken pack;
+            they manage to pay ilka year for whuskey one million three hundred and
+            forty-eight thousand pounds.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"But then their piety, their piety; weel, let's luke at it;
+            hing it up by the nape o' the neck, and turn it round atween our finger and
+            thumb on all sides.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Is there one school in all Scotland where the helpless,
+            homeless poor are fed and clothed at the public expense? None.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Is there a hame in all Scotland for the cleanly but sick
+            servant maid to go till, until health be restored? Alas! there is none.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Is there a school in all Scotland for training ladies in the
+            higher branches of learning? None. What then is there for the women of
+            Scotland?</p>
+            <br />
+
+            <p class="noindent">"A weel, be sure and try a cupful of Scottish Kail
+            Broase. See, and get a sup Scotch <em>lang milk</em>.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Hand this bit line yout to the Rev. Mr. &mdash;&mdash;. Tell
+            him to store out fats nae true.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"God bless you, and set you safe hame, is the prayer of the
+            old Scotch Bachelor."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I think you will agree with me, that the old testifying
+          spirit does not seem to have died out in Scotland, and that the backslidings
+          and abominations of the land do not want for able exponents.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As the indictment runs back to the time of Charles II., to the
+          persecutions of the Quakers in the days of Barclay of Ury, and brings up again
+          the most modern offences, one cannot but feel that there are the most savory
+          indications in it of Scotch thoroughness.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Some of the questions which he wishes to have me
+          "<em>speer</em>" at Aberdeen, I fear, alas! would bring but an indifferent
+          answer even in Boston, which gives a high school only to boys, and allows none
+          to girls. On one point, it seems to me, my friend might speer himself to
+          advantage, and that is the very commendable efforts which are being made now in
+          Edinburgh and Aberdeen both, in the way of educating the children of the
+          poor.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As this is one of the subjects which are particularly on my
+          mind, and as all information which we can get upon this subject is peculiarly
+          valuable to us in view of commencing efforts in America, I will abridge for you
+          an account of the industrial schools of Aberdeen, published by the society for
+          improving the condition of the laboring classes, in their paper called the
+          Laborer's Friend.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In June, 1841, it was ascertained that in Aberdeen there were
+          two hundred and eighty children, under fourteen years of age, who maintained
+          themselves professedly by begging, but partly by theft. The first effort to
+          better the moral condition of these children brought with it the discovery
+          which our philanthropists made in New York, that in order to do good to a
+          starving child, we must begin by feeding him; that we must gain his confidence
+          by showing him a benevolence which he can understand, and thus proceed
+          gradually to the reformation of his spiritual nature.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In 1841, therefore, some benevolent individuals in Aberdeen
+          hired rooms and a teacher, and gave out notice among these poor children that
+          they could there be supplied with food, work, and instruction. The general
+          arrangement of the day was four hours of lessons, five hours of work, and three
+          substantial meals. These meals were employed as the incitement to the lessons
+          and the work, since it was made an indispensable condition to each meal that
+          the child should have been present at the work or lessons which preceded it.
+          This arrangement worked admirably; so that they reported that the attendance
+          was more regular than at ordinary schools.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The whole produce of the work of the children goes towards
+          defraying the expense of the establishment, thus effecting several important
+          purposes,&mdash;reducing the expense of the school, and teaching the children,
+          practically, the value of their industry,&mdash;in procuring for them food and
+          instruction, and fostering in them, from the first, a sound principle of
+          self-dependence; inasmuch as they know, from the moment of their entering
+          school, that they give, or pay, in return for their food and education, all the
+          work they are capable of performing.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The institution did not profess to clothe the children; but by
+          the kindness of benevolent persons who take an interest in the school, there is
+          generally a stock of old clothes on hand, from which the most destitute are
+          supplied.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The following is the daily routine of the school: The scholars
+          assemble every morning at seven in summer, and eight in winter. The school is
+          opened by reading the Scriptures, praise, and prayer, and religious instruction
+          suited to their years; after which there is a lesson in geography, or the more
+          ordinary facts of natural history, taught by means of maps and prints
+          distributed along the walls of the school room; two days in the week they have
+          a singing lesson; at nine they breakfast on porridge and milk, and have half an
+          hour of play; at ten they again assemble in school, and are employed at work
+          till two. At two o'clock they dine; usually on broth, with coarse wheaten
+          bread, but occasionally on potatoes and ox-head soup, &amp;c. The diet is very
+          plain, but nutritious and abundant, and appears to suit the tastes of the
+          pupils completely. It is a pleasing sight to see them assembled, with their
+          youthful appetites sharpened by four hours' work, joining, at least with
+          outward decorum, in asking God's blessing on the food he has provided for them,
+          and most promptly availing themselves of the signal given to commence their
+          dinner.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From dinner till three, the time is spent in exercise or
+          recreation, occasionally working in the garden; from three to four, they work
+          either in the garden or in the work room; from four till seven, they are
+          instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic. At seven they have supper of
+          porridge and milk; and after short religious exercises, are dismissed to their
+          homes at eight.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On Saturday, they do not return to school after dinner; and
+          occasionally, as a reward of good behavior, they accompany the teacher in a
+          walk to the country or the sea coast.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On Sunday, they assemble at half past eight for devotion;
+          breakfast at nine; attend worship in the school room; after which they dine,
+          and return home, so as, if possible, to go with their parents to church in the
+          afternoon.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At five they again meet, and have <em>Sabbath school</em>
+          instruction in Bible and catechism; at seven, supper; and after evening worship
+          are dismissed.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From this detail it will be seen that these schools differ from
+          common day schools. In day schools, neither food nor employment is
+          provided&mdash;teaching only is proposed, with a very little moral
+          training.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The principle on which the industrial school proceeds, of giving
+          employment along with instruction&mdash;especially as that employment is
+          designed at the same time, if possible, to teach a trade which may be
+          afterwards available&mdash;appears of the highest value. It is a practical
+          discipline&mdash;a moral training, the importance of which cannot be
+          over-estimated.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In a common school, too, there can be but little moral training,
+          however efficiently the school may be conducted, just because there is little
+          opportunity given for the development and display of individual character. The
+          whole management of a school requires that the pupils be as speedily as
+          possible brought to a uniform outward conduct, and thus an appearance of good
+          behavior and propriety is produced within the school room, which is too often
+          cast aside and forgotten the moment the pupils pass the threshold.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The remark was once made by an experienced teacher, that for the
+          purposes of moral training he valued more the time he spent with his pupils at
+          their games, than that which was spent in the school room.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The pecuniary value of the work done in these schools is not so
+          great as was at first hoped, from the difficulty of procuring employment such
+          as children so neglected could perform to advantage. The real value of the
+          thing, however, they consider lies in the habits of industry and the sense of
+          independence thus imparted.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At the outset the managers of the school regretted extremely
+          their want of ability to furnish lodgings to the children. It was thought and
+          said that the homes, to which the majority of them were obliged to return after
+          school hours, would deprave faster than any instruction could reform.
+          Fortunately it was impossible, at the time, to provide lodging for the
+          children, and thus an experience was wrought out most valuable to all future
+          laborers in this field.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The managers report that after six years' trial, the instances
+          where evil results from the children returning home, are very rare; while there
+          have been most cheering instances of substantial good being carried by the
+          child, from the school, through the whole family. There are few parents,
+          especially mothers, so abandoned as not to be touched by kindness shown to
+          their offspring. It is the direct road to the mother's heart. Show kindness to
+          her child, and she is prepared at once to second your efforts on its behalf.
+          She must be debased, indeed, who will not listen to her child repeating its
+          text from the Bible, or singing a verse of its infant hymn; and by this means
+          the first seeds of a new life may be, and have been, planted in the parent's
+          heart.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In cases where parents are so utterly depraved as to make it
+          entirely hopeless to reform the child at home, they have found it the best
+          course to board them, two or three together, in respectable families; the
+          influences of the family state being held to be essential.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The success which attended the boys' school of industry soon led
+          to the establishment of one for girls, conducted on the same principles; and it
+          is stated that the change wrought among poor, outcast girls, by these means,
+          was even more striking and gratifying than among the boys.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After these schools had been some time in operation, it was
+          discovered that there were still multitudes of depraved children who could not
+          or did not avail themselves of these privileges. It was determined by the
+          authorities of the city of Aberdeen, in conformity with the Scripture
+          injunction, to go out into the highways and hedges and <em>compel</em> them to
+          come in. Under the authority of the police act they proposed to lay hold of the
+          whole of the juvenile vagrants, and provide them with food and instruction.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Instructions were given to the police, on the 19th of May, 1845,
+          to convey every child found begging to the soup kitchen; and, in the course of
+          the day, seventy-five were collected, of whom four only could read. The scene
+          which ensued is indescribable. Confusion and uproar, quarrelling and fighting,
+          language of the most hateful description, and the most determined rebellion
+          against every thing like order and regularity, gave the gentlemen engaged in
+          the undertaking of taming them the hardest day's work they had ever
+          encountered. Still, they so far prevailed, that, by evening, their authority
+          was comparatively established. When dismissed, the children were invited to
+          return next day&mdash;informed that, of course, they could do so or not, as
+          they pleased, and that, if they did, they should be fed and instructed, but
+          that, whether they came or not, begging would not be tolerated. Next day, the
+          <em>greater part</em> returned. The managers felt that they had triumphed, and
+          that a great field of moral usefulness was now secured to them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The class who were brought to this school were far below those
+          who attend the other two institutions&mdash;low as they appeared to be when the
+          schools were first opened; and the scenes of filth, disease, and misery,
+          exhibited even in the school itself, were such as would speedily have driven
+          from the work all merely sentimental philanthropists. Those who undertake this
+          work must have sound, strong principle to influence them, else they will soon
+          turn from it in disgust.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The school went on prosperously; it soon excited public
+          interest; funds flowed in; and, what is most gratifying, the working classes
+          took a lively interest in it; and while the wealthier inhabitants of Aberdeen
+          contributed during the year about one hundred and fifty pounds for its support,
+          the working men collected, and handed over to the committee, no less than two
+          hundred and fifty pounds.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Very few children in attendance at the industrial schools have
+          been convicted of any offence. The regularity of attendance is owing to the
+          children receiving their food in the school; and the school hours being from
+          seven in the morning till seven at night, there is little opportunity for the
+          commission of crime.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The experience acquired in these schools, and the connection
+          which most of the managers had with the criminal courts of the city, led to the
+          opening of a fourth institution&mdash;the Child's Asylum. Acting from day to
+          day as judges, these gentlemen had occasionally cases brought before them which
+          gave them extreme pain. Children&mdash;nay, infants&mdash;were brought up on
+          criminal charges: the facts alleged against them were incontestably proved; and
+          yet, in a moral sense, they could scarcely be held <em>guilty</em>, because, in
+          truth, they did not know that they had done wrong.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were, however, great practical difficulties in the way,
+          which could only be got over indirectly. The magistrate could adjourn the case,
+          directing the child to be cared for in the mean time, and inquiry could be made
+          as to his family and relations, as to his character, and the prospect of his
+          doing better in future; and he could either be restored to his relations, or
+          boarded in the house of refuge, or with a family, and placed at one or other of
+          the industrial schools; the charge of crime still remaining against him, to be
+          made use of at once if he deserted school and returned to evil courses.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The great advantage sought here was to avoid stamping the child
+          for life with the character of a convicted felon before he deserved it. Once
+          thus brand a child in this country, and it is all but impossible for him ever,
+          by future good conduct, to efface the mask. How careful ought the law and those
+          who administer it to be, not rashly to impress this stigma on the neglected
+          child!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Child's Asylum was opened on the 4th of December, 1846; and
+          as a proof of the efficiency of the industrial schools in checking juvenile
+          vagrancy and delinquency, it may be noticed that nearly a week elapsed before a
+          child was brought to the asylum. When a child is apprehended by the police for
+          begging, or other misdemeanor, he is conveyed to this institution, and his case
+          is investigated; for which purpose the committee meets daily. If the child be
+          of destitute parents, he is sent to one of the industrial schools; if the child
+          of a worthless, but not needy, parent, efforts are made to induce the parent to
+          fulfil his duty, and exercise his authority in restraining the evil habits of
+          the child, by sending him to school, or otherwise removing him out of the way
+          of temptation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From the 4th of December up to the 18th of March, forty-seven
+          cases, several of them more than once, had been brought up and carefully
+          inquired into. Most of them were disposed of in the manner now stated; but a
+          few were either claimed by, or remitted to, the procurator fiscal, as proper
+          objects of punishment.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is premature to say much of an institution which has existed
+          for so short a time; but if the principle on which it is founded be as correct
+          and sound as it appears, it must prosper and do good. There is, however, one
+          great practical difficulty, which can only be removed by legislative enactment:
+          there is no power at present to <em>detain</em> the children in the Asylum, or
+          to force them to attend the schools to which they have been Bent.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Such have been the rise and progress of the four industrial
+          schools in Aberdeen, including, as one of them, the Child's Asylum.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All the schools are on the most catholic basis, the only
+          qualification for membership being a subscription of a few shillings a year;
+          and the doors are open to all who require admission, without distinction of
+          sect or party.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The experience, then, of Aberdeen appears to demonstrate the
+          possibility of reclaiming even the most abject and depraved of our juvenile
+          population at a very moderate expense. The schools have been so long in
+          operation, that, if there had been anything erroneous in the principles or the
+          management of them, it must ere now have appeared; and if all the results have
+          been encouraging, why should not the system be extended and established in
+          other places? There is nothing in it which may not easily be copied in any town
+          or village of our land where it is required.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I cannot help adding to this account some directions, which a
+          very experienced teacher in these schools gives to those who are desirous of
+          undertaking this enterprise.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"1. The school rooms and appurtenances ought to be of the
+          plainest and most unpretending description. This is perfectly consistent with
+          the most scrupulous cleanliness and complete ventilation. In like manner, the
+          food should be wholesome, substantial, and abundant, but very plain&mdash;such
+          as the boys or girls may soon be able to attain, or even surpass, by their own
+          exertions after leaving school.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"2. The teachers must ever be of the best description, patient
+          and persevering, not easily discouraged, and thoroughly versed in whatever
+          branch they may have to teach; and, above all things, they must be persons of
+          solid and undoubted piety&mdash;for without this qualification, all others
+          will, in the end, prove worthless and unavailing.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Throughout the day, the children must ever be kept in mind
+          that, after all, religion is 'the one thing needful;' that the soul is of more
+          value than the body.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"3. <em>The schools must be kept of moderate size</em>: from
+          their nature this is absolutely necessary. It is a task of the greatest
+          difficulty to manage, in a satisfactory manner, a large school of children,
+          even of the higher classes, with all the advantages of careful home-training
+          and superintendence; but with industrial schools it is folly to attempt it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"From eighty to one hundred scholars is the largest number that
+          ever should be gathered into one institution; when they exceed this, <em>let
+          additional schools be opened</em>; in other words, <em>increase the number, not
+          the size, of the schools</em>. They should be put down in the localities most
+          convenient for the scholars, so that distance may be no bar to attendance; and
+          if circumstances permit, a garden, either at the school or at no very great
+          distance, will be of great utility.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"4. As soon as practicable, the children should be taught, and
+          kept steadily at, some trade or other, by which they may earn their subsistence
+          on leaving school; for the longer they have pursued this particular occupation
+          at school, the more easily will they be able thereby to support themselves
+          afterwards.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"As to commencing schools in new places, the best way of
+          proceeding is for a few persons, who are of one mind on the subject, to unite,
+          advance from their own purses, or raise among their friends, the small sum
+          necessary at the outset, get their teacher, open their school, and collect a
+          few scholars, gradually extend the number, and when they have made some
+          progress, then tell the public what they have been doing; ask them to come and
+          see; and, if they approve, to give their money and support. Public meetings and
+          eloquent speeches are excellent things for exciting interest and raising funds,
+          but they are of no use in carrying on the every-day work of the school.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Let not the managers expect impossibilities. There will be
+          crime and distress in spite of industrial schools; but they may be immensely
+          reduced; and let no one be discouraged by the occasional lapse into a crime of
+          a promising pupil. Such things must be while sin reigns in the heart of man;
+          let them only be thereby stirred up to greater and more earnest exertion in
+          their work.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Let them be most careful as to the parties whom they admit to
+          <em>act</em> along with them; for unless <em>all</em> the laborers be of one
+          heart and mind, divisions must ensue, and the whole work be marred.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"It is most desirable that as many persons as possible of wealth
+          and influence should lend their aid in supporting these institutions. Patrons
+          and subscribers should be of all ranks and denominations; but they must beware
+          of interfering with the actual daily working of the school, which ought to be
+          left to the unfettered energies of those who, by their zeal, their activity,
+          their sterling principle, and their successful administration, have proved
+          themselves every way competent to the task they have undertaken.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"If the managers wish to carry out the good effect of their
+          schools to the utmost, then they will not confine their labor to the scholars;
+          <em>they will, through them, get access to the parents</em>. The good which the
+          ladies of the Aberdeen Female School have already thus accomplished is not to
+          be told; but let none try this work who do not experimentally know the value of
+          the immortal soul."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Industrial schools seem to open a bright prospect to the
+          hitherto neglected outcasts of our cities; for them a new era seems to be
+          commencing: they are no longer to be restrained and kept in order by the iron
+          bars of the prison house, and taught morality by the scourge of the
+          executioner. They are now to be treated as reasonable and immortal beings; and
+          may He who is the God of the poor as well as the rich give his effectual
+          blessing with them, wherever they may be established, so that they may be a
+          source of joy and rejoicing to all ranks of society.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Such is the result of the "speerings" recommended by my worthy
+          correspondent. I have given them much at length, because they are useful to us
+          in the much needed reforms commencing in our cities.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to the appalling statements about intemperance, I grieve to
+          say that they are confirmed by much which must meet the eye even of the passing
+          stranger. I have said before how often the natural features of this country
+          reminded me of the State of Maine. Would that the beneficent law which has
+          removed, to so great an extent, pauperism and crime from that noble state might
+          also be given to Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I suppose that the efforts for the benefit of the poorer classes
+          in this city might be paralleled by efforts of a similar nature in the other
+          cities of Scotland, particularly in Edinburgh, where great exertions have been
+          making; but I happened to have a more full account of these in Aberdeen, and so
+          give them as specimens of the whole. I must say, however, that in no city which
+          I visited in Scotland did I see such neatness, order, and thoroughness, as in
+          Aberdeen; and in none did there appear to be more gratifying evidences of
+          prosperity and comfort among that class which one sees along the streets and
+          thoroughfares.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">About two o'clock we started from Aberdeen among crowds of
+          friends, to whom we bade farewell with real regret.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our way at first lay over the course of yesterday, along that
+          beautiful sea coast&mdash;beautiful to the eye, but perilous to the navigator.
+          They told us that the winds and waves raged here with an awful power. Not long
+          before we came, the Duke of Sutherland, an iron steamer, was wrecked upon this
+          shore. In one respect the coast of Maine has decidedly the advantage over this,
+          and, indeed, of every other sea coast which I have ever visited; and that is in
+          the richness of the wooding, which veils its picturesque points and capes in
+          luxuriant foldings of verdure.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At Stonehaven station, where we stopped a few minutes, there was
+          quite a gathering of the inhabitants to exchange greetings, and afterwards at
+          successive stations along the road, many a kindly face and voice made our
+          journey a pleasant one.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When we got into old Dundee it seemed all alive with welcome. We
+          went in the carriage with the lord provost, Mr. Thoms, to his residence, where
+          a party had been waiting dinner for us some time.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The meeting in the evening was in a large church, densely
+          crowded, and conducted much as the others had been. When they came to sing the
+          closing hymn, I hoped they would sing Dundee; but they did not, and I fear in
+          Scotland, as elsewhere, the characteristic national melodies are giving way
+          before more modern ones.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On the stage we were surrounded by many very pleasant people,
+          with whom, between the services, we talked without knowing their names. The
+          venerable Dr. Dick, the author of the Christian Philosopher and the Philosophy
+          of the Future State, was there. Gilfillan was also present, and spoke. Together
+          with their contribution to the Scottish offering, they presented me with quite
+          a collection of the works of different writers of Dundee, beautifully
+          bound.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We came away before the exercises of the evening were
+          finished.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next morning we had quite a large breakfast party, mostly
+          ministers and their wives. Good old Dr. Dick was there, and I had an
+          introduction to him, and had pleasure in speaking to him of the interest with
+          which his works have been read in America. Of this fact I was told that he had
+          received more substantial assurance in a comfortable sum of money subscribed
+          and remitted to him by his American readers. If this be so it is a most
+          commendable movement.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">What a pity it was, during Scott's financial embarrassments,
+          that every man, woman, and child in America, who had received pleasure from his
+          writings, had not subscribed something towards an offering justly due to
+          him!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our host, Mr. Thoms, was one of the first to republish in
+          Scotland Professor Stuart's Letters to Dr. Channing, with a preface of his own.
+          He showed me Professor Stuart's letter in reply, and seemed rather amused that
+          the professor directed it to the Rev. James Thom, supposing, of course, that so
+          much theological zeal could not inhere in a layman. He also showed us many
+          autograph letters of their former pastor, Mr. Cheyne, whose interesting memoirs
+          have excited a good deal of attention in some circles in America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After breakfast the ladies of the Dundee Antislavery Society
+          called, and then the lord provost took us in his carriage to see the city.
+          Dundee is the third town of Scotland in population, and a place of great
+          antiquity. Its population in 1851 was seventy-eight thousand eight hundred and
+          twenty-nine, and the manufactures consist principally of yarns, linen, with
+          canvas and cotton bagging, great quantities of which are exported to France and
+          North and South America. There are about sixty spinning mills and factories in
+          the town and neighborhood, besides several iron founderies and manufactories of
+          steam engines and machinery.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Dundee has always been a stronghold of liberty and the reformed
+          religion. It is said that in the grammar school of this town William Wallace
+          was educated; and here an illustrious confraternity of noblemen and gentry was
+          formed, who joined to resist the tyranny of England.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here Wishart preached in the beginning of the reformation,
+          preparatory to his martyrdom. Here flourished some rude historical writers, who
+          devoted their talents to the downfall of Popery. Singularly enough, they
+          accomplished this in part by dramatic representations, in which the vices and
+          absurdities of the Papal establishment were ridiculed before the people. Among
+          others, one James Wedderburn and his brother, John, vicar of Dundee, are
+          mentioned as having excelled in this kind of composition. The same authors
+          composed books of song, denominated "Gude and Godly Ballads," wherein the
+          frauds and deceits of Popery were fully pointed out. A third brother of the
+          family, being a musical genius, it is said, "turned the times and tenor of many
+          profane songs into godly songs and hymns, whereby he stirred up the affections
+          of many," which tunes were called the Psalms of Dundee. Here, perhaps, was the
+          origin of "Dundee's wild warbling measures."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The conjoint forces of tragedy, comedy, ballads, and music, thus
+          brought to bear on the popular mind, was very great.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Dundee has been a great sufferer during the various civil
+          commotions in Scotland. In the time of Charles I. it stood out for the solemn
+          league and covenant, for which crime the Earl of Montrose was sent against it,
+          who took and burned it. It is said that he called Dundee a most seditious town,
+          the securest haunt and receptacle of rebels, and a place that had contributed
+          as much as any other to the rebellion. Yet afterwards, when Montrose was led a
+          captive through Dundee, the historian observes, "It is remarkable of the town
+          of Dundee, in which he lodged one night, that though it had suffered more by
+          his army than any town else within the kingdom, yet were they, amongst all the
+          rest, so far from exulting over him, that the whole town testified a great deal
+          of sorrow for his woful condition; and there was he likewise furnished with
+          clothes suitable to his birth and person."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This town of Dundee was stormed by Monk and the forces of
+          Parliament during the time of the commonwealth, because they had sheltered the
+          fugitive Charles II., and granted him money. When taken by Monk, he committed a
+          great many barbarities.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It has also been once visited by the plague, and once with a
+          seven years' dearth or famine.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Most of these particulars I found in a History of Dundee, which
+          formed one of the books presented to me.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The town is beautifully situated on the Firth of Tay, which here
+          spreads its waters, and the quantity of shipping indicates commercial
+          prosperity.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I was shown no abbeys or cathedrals, either because none ever
+          existed, or because they were destroyed when the town was fired.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In our rides about the city, the local recollections that our
+          friends seemed to recur to with as much interest as any, were those connected
+          with the queen's visit to Dundee, in 1844. The spot where she landed has been
+          commemorated by the erection of a superb triumphal arch in stone. The provost
+          said some of the people were quite astonished at the plainness of the queen's
+          dress, having looked for something very dazzling and overpowering from a queen.
+          They could scarcely believe their eyes, when they saw her riding by in a plain
+          bonnet, and enveloped in a simple shepherd's plaid.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The queen is exceedingly popular in Scotland, doubtless in part
+          because she heartily appreciated the beauty of the country, and the strong and
+          interesting traits of the people. She has a country residence at Balmorrow,
+          where she spends a part of every year; and the impression seems to prevail
+          among her Scottish subjects, that she never appears to feel herself more happy
+          or more at home than in this her Highland dwelling. The legend is, that here
+          she delights to throw off the restraints of royalty; to go about plainly
+          dressed, like a private individual; to visit in the cottages of the poor; to
+          interest herself in the instruction of the children; and to initiate the future
+          heir of England into that practical love of the people which is the best
+          qualification for a ruler.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I repeat to you the things which I hear floating of the public
+          characters of England, and you can attach what degree of credence you may think
+          proper. As a general rule in this censorious world, I think it safe to suppose
+          that the good which is commonly reported of public characters, if not true in
+          the letter of its details, is at least so in its general spirit. The stories
+          which are told about distinguished people generally run in a channel coincident
+          with the facts of their character. On the other hand, with regard to evil
+          reports, it is safe always to allow something for the natural propensity to
+          detraction and slander, which is one of the most undoubted facts of human
+          nature in all lands.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We left Dundee at two o'clock, by cars, for Edinburgh. In the
+          evening we attended another <em>soir&eacute;e</em> of the working men of
+          Edinburgh. As it was similar in all respects to the one at Glasgow, I will not
+          dwell upon it, further than to say how gratifying to me, in every respect, are
+          occasions in which working men, as a class, stand out before the public.
+          <em>They</em> are to form, more and more, a new power in society, greater than
+          the old power of helmet and sword, and I rejoice in every indication that they
+          are learning to understand themselves.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We have received letters from the working men, both in Dundee
+          and Glasgow, desiring our return to attend <em>soir&eacute;es</em> in those
+          cities. Nothing could give us greater pleasure, had we time and strength. No
+          class of men are more vitally interested in the conflict of freedom against
+          slavery than working men. The principle upon which slavery is founded touches
+          every interest of theirs. If it be right that one half of the community should
+          deprive the other half of education, of all opportunities to rise in the world,
+          of all property rights and all family ties, merely to make them more convenient
+          tools for their profit and luxury, then every injustice and extortion, which
+          oppresses the laboring man in any country, can be equally defended.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_25" name="toc_25"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter VIII</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear
+          Aunt E.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">You wanted us to write about our visit to Melrose; so here you
+          have it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On Tuesday morning Mr. S. and C&mdash;&mdash; had agreed to go
+          back to Glasgow for the purpose of speaking at a temperance meeting, and as we
+          were restricted for time, we were obliged to make the visit to Melrose in their
+          absence, much to the regret of us all. G&mdash;&mdash; thought we would make a
+          little quiet run out in the cars by ourselves, while Mr. S. and C&mdash;&mdash;
+          were gone back to Glasgow.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was one of those soft, showery, April days, misty and
+          mystical, now weeping and now shining, that we found ourselves whirled by the
+          cars through this enchanted ground of Scotland. Almost every name we heard
+          spoken along the railroad, every stream we passed, every point we looked at,
+          recalled some line of Walter Scott's poetry, or some event of history. The
+          thought that he was gone forever, whose genius had given the charm to all,
+          seemed to settle itself down like a melancholy mist. To how little purpose
+          seemed the few, short years of his life, compared with the capabilities of such
+          a soul! Brilliant as his success had been, how was it passed like a dream! It
+          seemed sad to think that he had not only passed away himself, but that almost
+          the whole family and friendly circle had passed with him&mdash;not a son left
+          to bear his name!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here we were in the region of the Ettrick, the Yarrow, and the
+          Tweed. I opened the Lay of the Last Minstrel, and, as if by instinct, the first
+          lines my eye fell upon were these:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Call it not vain: they do not err</p>
+            <p class="l">Who say, that when the poet dies,</p>
+            <p class="l">Mute nature mourns her worshipper,</p>
+            <p class="l">And celebrates his obsequies;</p>
+            <p class="l">Who say, tall cliff and cavern lone</p>
+            <p class="l">For the departed bard make moan;</p>
+            <p class="l">That mountains weep in crystal rill;</p>
+            <p class="l">That flowers in tears of balm distil;</p>
+            <p class="l">Through his loved groves that breezes sigh,</p>
+            <p class="l">And oaks, in deeper groan, reply;</p>
+            <p class="l">And rivers teach their rushing wave</p>
+            <p class="l">To murmur dirges round his grave."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">"Melrose!" said the loud voice of the conductor; and
+          starting, I looked up and saw quite a flourishing village, in the midst of
+          which rose the old, gray, mouldering walls of the abbey. Now, this was somewhat
+          of a disappointment to me. I had been somehow expecting to find the building
+          standing alone in the middle of a great heath, far from all abodes of men, and
+          with no companions more hilarious than the owls. However, it was no use
+          complaining; the fact was, there was a village, and what was more, a hotel, and
+          to this hotel we were to go to get a guide for the places we were to visit; for
+          it was understood that we were to "<em>do</em>" Melrose, Dryburgh, and
+          Abbotsford, all in one day. There was no time for sentiment; it was a business
+          affair, that must be looked in the face promptly, if we meant to get through.
+          Ejaculations and quotations of poetry could, of course, be thrown in, as
+          William, of Deloraine pattered his prayers, while riding.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We all alighted at a very comfortable hotel, and were ushered
+          into as snug a little parlor as one's heart could desire.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image16.png"
+          alt="East Window of Melrose Abbey." /></p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center">East Window of Melrose Abbey.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next thing was to hire a coachman to take us, in the
+          rain,&mdash;for the mist had now swelled into a rain,&mdash;through the whole
+          appropriate round. I stood by and heard names which I had never heard before,
+          except in song, brought into view in their commercial relations; so much for
+          Abbotsford; and so much for Dryburgh; and then, if we would like to throw in
+          Thomas the Rhymer's Tower, why, that would be something extra.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Thomas the Rhymer?" said one of the party, not exactly posted
+          up. "Was he any thing remarkable? Well, is it worth while to go to his tower?
+          It will cost something extra, and take more time."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Weighed in such a sacrilegious balance, Thomas was found
+          wanting, of course: the idea of driving three or four miles farther to see an
+          old tower, supposed to have belonged to a man who is supposed to have existed
+          and to have been carried off by a supposititious Queen of the Fairies into
+          Elfland, was too absurd for reasonable people; in fact, I made believe myself
+          that I did not care much about it, particularly as the landlady remarked, that
+          if we did not get home by five o'clock "the chops might be spoiled."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we all were packed into a tight coach, the rain still
+          pouring, I began to wish mute Nature would not be quite so energetic in
+          distilling her tears. A few sprinkling showers, or a graceful wreath of mist,
+          might be all very well; but a steady, driving rain, that obliged us to shut up
+          the carriage windows, and coated them with mist so that we could not look out,
+          why, I say it is enough to put out the fire of sentiment in any heart. We might
+          as well have been rolled up in a bundle and carried through the country, for
+          all the seeing it was possible to do under such circumstances. It, therefore,
+          should be stated, that we did keep bravely up in our poetic zeal, which kindly
+          Mrs. W. also re&euml;nforced, by distributing certain very delicate sandwiches
+          to support the outer man.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At length, the coach stopped at the entrance of Abbotsford
+          grounds, where there was a cottage, out of which, due notice being given, came
+          a trim, little old woman in a black gown, with pattens on; she put up her
+          umbrella, and we all put up ours; the rain poured harder than ever as we went
+          dripping up the gravel walk, looking much, I inly fancied, like a set of
+          discomforted fowls fleeing to covert. We entered the great court yard,
+          surrounded with a high wall, into which were built sundry fragments of curious
+          architecture that happened to please the poet's fancy.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I had at the moment, spite of the rain, very vividly in my mind
+          Washington Irving's graceful account of his visit to Abbotsford while this
+          house was yet building, and the picture which he has given of Walter Scott
+          sitting before his door, humorously descanting on various fragments of
+          sculpture, which lay scattered about, and which he intended to immortalize by
+          incorporating into his new dwelling.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Viewed as a mere speculation, or, for aught I know, as an
+          architectural effort, this building may, perhaps, be counted as a mistake and a
+          failure. I observe, that it is quite customary to speak of it, among some, as a
+          pity that he ever undertook it. But viewed as a development of his inner life,
+          as a working out in wood and stone of favorite fancies and cherished ideas, the
+          building has to me a deep interest. The gentle-hearted poet delighted himself
+          in it; this house was his stone and wood poem, as irregular, perhaps, and as
+          contrary to any established rule, as his Lay of the Last Minstrel, but still
+          wild and poetic. The building has this interest, that it was throughout his own
+          conception, thought, and choice; that he expressed himself in every stone that
+          was laid, and made it a kind of shrine, into which he wove all his treasures of
+          antiquity, and where he imitated, from the beautiful, old, mouldering ruins of
+          Scotland, the parts that had touched him most deeply.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The walls of one room were of carved oak from the Dunfermline
+          Abbey; the ceiling of another imitated from Roslin Castle; here a fireplace was
+          wrought in the image of a favorite niche in Melrose; and there the ancient
+          pulpit of Erskine was wrought into a wall. To him, doubtless, every object in
+          the house was suggestive of poetic fancies; every carving and bit of tracery
+          had its history, and was as truly an expression of something in the poet's mind
+          as a verse of his poetry.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A building wrought out in this way, and growing up like a bank
+          of coral, may very possibly violate all the proprieties of criticism; it may
+          possibly, too, violate one's ideas of mere housewifery utility; but by none of
+          these rules ought such a building to be judged. We should look at it rather as
+          the poet's endeavor to render outward and visible the dream land of his
+          thoughts, and to create for himself a refuge from the cold, dull realities of
+          life, in an architectural romance.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These were thoughts which gave interest to the scene as we
+          passed through the porchway, adorned with petrified stags' horns, into the long
+          entrance hall of the mansion. This porch was copied from one in Linlithgow
+          palace. One side of this hall was lighted by windows of painted glass. The
+          floor was of black and white marble from the Hebrides. Round the whole cornice
+          there was a line of coats armorial, richly blazoned, and the following
+          inscription in old German text:</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"These be the coat armories of the clanns and chief men of name
+          wha keepit the marchys of Scotland in the old tyme for the kynge. Trewe men war
+          they in their tyme, and in their defence God them defendyt."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were the names of the Douglases, the Elliots, the Scotts,
+          the Armstrongs, and others. I looked at this arrangement with interest, because
+          I knew that Scott must have taken a particular delight in it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The fireplace, designed from a niche in Melrose Abbey, also in
+          this room, and a choice bit of sculpture it is. In it was an old grate, which
+          had its history also, and opposite to it the boards from the pulpit of Erskine
+          were wrought into a kind of side table, or something which served that purpose.
+          The spaces between the windows were decorated with pieces of armor, crossed
+          swords, and stags' horns, each one of which doubtless had its history. On each
+          side of the door, at the bottom of the hall, was a Gothic shrine, or niche, in
+          both of which stood a figure in complete armor.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then we went into the drawing room; a lofty saloon, the woodwork
+          of which is entirely of cedar, richly wrought; probably another of the author's
+          favorite poetic fancies. It is adorned with a set of splendid antique ebony
+          furniture; cabinet, chairs, and piano&mdash;the gift of George IV. to the
+          poet.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went into his library; a magnificent room, on which, I
+          suppose, the poet's fancy had expended itself more than any other. The roof is
+          of carved oak, after models from Roslin Castle. Here, in a niche, is a marble
+          bust of Scott, as we understood a present from Chantrey to the poet; it was one
+          of the best and most animated representations of him I ever saw, and very much
+          superior to the one under the monument in Edinburgh. On expressing my idea to
+          this effect, I found I had struck upon a favorite notion of the good woman who
+          showed us the establishment; she seemed to be an ancient servant of the house,
+          and appeared to entertain a regard for the old laird scarcely less than
+          idolatry. One reason why this statue is superior is, that it represents his
+          noble forehead, which the Edinburgh one suffers to be concealed by falling
+          hair: to cover <em>such</em> a forehead seems scarcely less than a libel.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The whole air of this room is fanciful and picturesque in the
+          extreme. The walls are entirely filled with the bookcases, there being about
+          twenty thousand volumes. A small room opens from the library, which was Scott's
+          own private study. His writing table stood in the centre, with his inkstand on
+          it, and before it a large, plain, black leather arm chair.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In a glass case, I think in this room, was exhibited the suit of
+          clothes he last wore; a blue coat with large metal buttons, plaid trousers, and
+          broad-brimmed hat. Around the sides of this room there was a gallery of light
+          tracery work; a flight of stairs led up to it, and in one corner of it was a
+          door which the woman said led to the poet's bed room. One seemed to see in all
+          this arrangement how snug, and cozy, and comfortable the poet had thus
+          ensconced himself, to give himself up to his beloved labors and his poetic
+          dreams. But there was a cold and desolate air of order and adjustment about it
+          which reminds one of the precise and chilling arrangements of a room from which
+          has just been carried out a corpse; all is silent and deserted.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The house is at present the property of Scott's only surviving
+          daughter, whose husband has assumed the name of Scott. We could not learn from
+          our informant whether any of the family was in the house. We saw only the rooms
+          which are shown to visitors, and a coldness, like that of death, seemed to
+          strike to my heart from their chilly solitude.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we went out of the house we passed another company of
+          tourists coming in, to whom we heard our guide commencing the same recitation,
+          "this is," and "this is," &amp;c., just as she had done to us. One thing about
+          the house and grounds had disappointed me; there was not one view from a single
+          window I saw that was worth any thing, in point of beauty; why a poet, with an
+          eye for the beautiful, could have located a house in such an indifferent spot,
+          on an estate where so many beautiful sites were at his command, I could not
+          imagine.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to the external appearance of Abbotsford, it is as irregular
+          as can well be imagined. There are gables, and pinnacles, and spires, and
+          balconies, and buttresses any where and every where, without rhyme or reason;
+          for wherever the poet wanted a balcony, he had it; or wherever he had a
+          fragment of carved stone, or a bit of historic tracery, to put in, he made a
+          shrine for it forthwith, without asking leave of any rules. This I take to be
+          one of the main advantages of Gothic architecture; it is a most catholic and
+          tolerant system, and any kind of eccentricity may find refuge beneath its
+          mantle.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here and there, all over the house, are stones carved with
+          armorial bearings and pious inscriptions, inserted at random wherever the poet
+          fancied. Half way up the wall in one place is the door of the old Tolbooth at
+          Edinburgh, with the inscription over it, "The Lord of armeis is my protector;
+          blissit ar thay that trust in the Lord. 1575."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A doorway at the west end of the house is composed of stones
+          which formed the portal of the Tolbooth, given to Sir Walter on the pulling
+          down of the building in 1817.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On the east side of the house is a rude carving of a sword with
+          the words, "Up with ye, sutors of Selkyrke. A.D. 1525." Another inscription, on
+          the same side of the house, runs thus:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"By night, by day, remember ay</p>
+            <p class="l">The goodness of ye Lord;</p>
+            <p class="l">And thank his name, whose glorious fame</p>
+            <p class="l">Is spread throughout ye world.&mdash;A.C.M.D. 1516."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">In the yard, to the right of the doorway of the mansion, we
+          saw the figure of Scott's favorite dog Maida, with a Latin
+          inscription&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Maid&aelig; marmorea dormis sub imagine, Maida,</p>
+            <p class="l">Ad januam domini: sit tibi terra levis."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Which in our less expressive English we might
+          render&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">At thy lord's door, in slumbers light and blest,</p>
+            <p class="l">Maida, beneath this marble Maida, rest:</p>
+            <p class="l">Light lie the turf upon thy gentle breast.</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">One of the most endearing traits of Scott was that sympathy
+          and harmony which always existed between him and the brute creation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Poor Maida seemed cold and lonely, washed by the rain in the
+          damp grass plat. How sad, yet how expressive is the scriptural phrase for
+          indicating death! "He shall return to his house no more, neither shall his
+          place know him any more." And this is what all our homes are coming to; our
+          buying, our planting, our building, our marrying and giving in marriage, our
+          genial firesides and dancing children, are all like so many figures passing
+          through the magic lantern, to be put out at last in death.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The grounds, I was told, are full of beautiful paths and seats,
+          favorite walks and lounges of the poet; but the obdurate pertinacity of the
+          rain compelled us to choose the very shortest path possible to the carriage. I
+          picked a leaf of the Portugal laurel, which I send you.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Next we were driven to Dryburgh, or rather to the banks of the
+          Tweed, where a ferryman, with a small skiff waits to take passengers over.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Tweed is a clear, rippling river, with a white, pebbly
+          bottom, just like our New England mountain streams. After we landed we were to
+          walk to the Abbey. Our feet were damp and cold, and our boatman invited us to
+          his cottage. I found him and all his family warmly interested in the fortunes
+          of Uncle Tom and his friends, and for his sake they received me as a
+          long-expected friend. While I was sitting by the ingleside,&mdash;that is, a
+          coal grate,&mdash;warming my feet, I fell into conversation with my host. He
+          and his family, I noticed, spoke English more than Scotch; he was an
+          intelligent young man, in appearance and style of mind precisely what you might
+          expect to meet in a cottage in Maine. He and all the household, even the old
+          grandmother, had read Uncle Tom's Cabin, and were perfectly familiar with all
+          its details. He told me that it had been universally read in the cottages in
+          the vicinity. I judged from his mode of speaking, that he and his neighbors
+          were in the habit of reading a great deal. I spoke of going to Dryburgh to see
+          the grave of Scott, and inquired if his works were much read by the common
+          people. He said that Scott was not so much a favorite with the people as Burns.
+          I inquired if he took a newspaper. He said that the newspapers were kept at so
+          high a price that working men were not able to take them; sometimes they got
+          sight of them through clubs, or by borrowing. How different, thought I, from
+          America, where a workingman would as soon think of going without his bread as
+          without his newspaper!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The cottages of these laboring people, of which there were a
+          whole village along here, are mostly of stone, thatched with straw. This thatch
+          sometimes gets almost entirely grown over with green moss. Thus moss-covered
+          was the roof of the cottage where we stopped, opposite to Dryburgh grounds.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There was about this time one of those weeping pauses in the
+          showery sky, and a kind of thinning and edging away of the clouds, which gave
+          hope that perhaps the sun was going to look out, and give to our persevering
+          researches the countenance of his presence. This was particularly desirable, as
+          the old woman, who came out with her keys to guide us, said she had a cold and
+          a cough: we begged that she would not trouble herself to go with us at all. The
+          fact is, with all respect to nice old women, and the worthy race of guides in
+          general, they are not favorable to poetic meditation. We promised to be very
+          good if she would let us have the key, and lock up all the gates, and bring it
+          back; but no, she was faithfulness itself, and so went coughing along through
+          the dripping and drowned grass to open the gates for us.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This Dryburgh belongs now to the Earl of Buchan, having been
+          bought by him from a family of the name of Haliburton, ancestral connections of
+          Scott, who, in his autobiography, seems to lament certain mischances of fortune
+          which prevented the estate from coming into his own family, and gave them, he
+          said, nothing but the right of stretching their bones there. It seems a pity,
+          too, because the possession of this rich, poetic ruin would have been a mine of
+          wealth to Scott, far transcending the stateliest of modern houses.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now, if you do not remember Scott's poem, of the Eve of St.
+          John, you ought to read it over; for it is, I think, the most spirited of all
+          his ballads; nothing conceals the transcendent lustre and beauty of these
+          compositions, but the splendor of his other literary productions. Had he never
+          written any thing but these, they would have made him a name as a poet. As it
+          was, I found the fanciful chime of the cadences in this ballad ringing through
+          my ears. I kept saying to myself&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The Dryburgh bells do ring,</p>
+            <p class="l">And the white monks do sing</p>
+            <p class="l">For Sir Richard of Coldinghame."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">And as I was wandering around in the labyrinth, of old,
+          broken, mossy arches, I thought&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"There is a nun in Dryburgh bower</p>
+            <p class="l">Ne'er looks upon the sun;</p>
+            <p class="l">There is a monk in Melrose tower,</p>
+            <p class="l">He speaketh word to none.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">That nun who ne'er beholds the day,</p>
+            <p class="l">That monk who speaks to none,</p>
+            <p class="l">That nun was Smaylhome's lady gay,</p>
+            <p class="l">That monk the bold Baron."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">It seems that there is a vault in this edifice which has
+          had some superstitious legends attached to it, from having been the residence,
+          about fifty years ago, of a mysterious lady, who, being under a vow never to
+          behold the light of the sun, only left her cell at midnight. This little story,
+          of course, gives just enough superstitious chill to this beautiful ruin to help
+          the effect of the pointed arches, the clinging wreaths of ivy, the shadowy
+          pines, and yew trees; in short, if one had not a guide waiting, who had a bad
+          cold, if one could stroll here at leisure by twilight or moonlight, one might
+          get up a considerable deal of the mystic and poetic.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is a part of the ruin that stands most picturesquely by
+          itself, as if old Time had intended it for a monument. It is the ruin of that
+          part of the chapel called St. Mary's Aisle; it stands surrounded by luxuriant
+          thickets of pine and other trees, a cluster of beautiful Gothic arches
+          supporting a second tier of smaller and more fanciful ones, one or two of which
+          have that light touch of the Moorish in their form which gives such a singular
+          and poetic effect in many of the old Gothic ruins. Out of these wild arches and
+          windows wave wreaths of ivy, and slender harebells shake their blue pendants,
+          looking in and out of the lattices like little capricious fairies. There are
+          fragments of ruins lying on the ground, and the whole air of the thing is as
+          wild, and dreamlike, and picturesque as the poet's fanciful heart could have
+          desired.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image17.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">Underneath these arches he lies beside his wife; around him the
+          representation of the two things he loved most&mdash;the wild bloom and beauty
+          of nature, and the architectural memorial of by-gone history and art. Yet there
+          was one thing I felt I would have had otherwise; it seemed to me that the flat
+          stones of the pavement are a weight too heavy and too cold to be laid on the
+          breast of a lover of nature and the beautiful. The green turf, springing with
+          flowers, that lies above a grave, does not seem, to us so hopeless a barrier
+          between us and what was warm and loving; the springing grass and daisies there
+          seem, types and assurances that the mortal beneath shall put on immortality;
+          they come up to us as kind messages from the peaceful dust, to say that it is
+          resting in a certain hope of a glorious resurrection.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On the cold flagstones, walled in by iron railings, there were
+          no daisies and no moss; but I picked many of both from, the green turf around,
+          which, with some sprigs of ivy from the walls, I send you.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is strange that we turn away from the grave of this man, who
+          achieved to himself the most brilliant destiny that ever an author
+          did,&mdash;raising himself by his own unassisted efforts to be the chosen
+          companions of nobles and princes, obtaining all that heart could desire of
+          riches and honor,&mdash;we turn away and say, Poor Walter Scott! How desolately
+          touching is the account in Lockhart, of his dim and indistinct agony the day
+          his wife was brought here to be buried! and the last part of that biography is
+          the saddest history that I know; it really makes us breathe a long sigh of
+          relief when we read of the lowering of the coffin into this vault.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">What force does all this give to the passage in his diary in
+          which he records his estimate of life!&mdash;"What is this world? a dream
+          within a dream. As we grow older, each step is an awakening. The youth awakes,
+          as he thinks, from childhood; the full-grown man despises the pursuits of youth
+          as visionary; the old man looks on manhood as a feverish dream. The grave the
+          last sleep? No; it is the last and final awakening."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It has often been remarked, that there is no particular moral
+          purpose aimed at by Scott in his writings; he often speaks of it himself in his
+          last days, in a tone of humility. He represents himself as having been employed
+          mostly in the comparatively secondary department of giving innocent amusement.
+          He often expressed, humbly and earnestly, the hope that he had, at least, done
+          no harm; but I am inclined to think, that although moral effect was not
+          primarily his object, yet the influence of his writings and whole existence on
+          earth has been decidedly good.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is a great thing to have a mind of such power and such
+          influence, whose recognitions of right and wrong, of virtue and vice, were, in
+          most cases, so clear and determined. He never enlists our sympathies in favor
+          of vice, by drawing those seductive pictures, in which it comes so near the
+          shape and form of virtue that the mind is puzzled as to the boundary line. He
+          never makes young ladies feel that they would like to marry corsairs, pirates,
+          or sentimental villains of any description. The most objectionable thing,
+          perhaps, about his influence, is its sympathy with the war spirit. A person
+          Christianly educated can hardly read some of his descriptions in the Lady of
+          the Lake and Marmion without an emotion of disgust, like what is excited by the
+          same things in Homer; and as the world comes more and more under the influence
+          of Christ, it will recede more and more from this kind of literature.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Scott has been censured as being wilfully unjust to the
+          Covenanters and Puritans. I think he meant really to deal fairly by them, and
+          that what <em>he</em> called fairness might seem rank injustice to those
+          brought up to venerate them, as we have been. I suppose that in Old Mortality
+          it was Scott's honest intention to balance the two parties about fairly, by
+          putting on the Covenant side his good, steady, well-behaved hero, Mr. Morton,
+          who is just as much of a Puritan as the Puritans would have been had they taken
+          Sir Walter Scott's advice; that is to say, a very nice, sensible, moral man,
+          who takes the Puritan side because he thinks it the <em>right</em> side, but
+          contemplates all the devotional enthusiasm and religious ecstasies of his
+          associates from a merely artistic and pictorial point of view. The trouble was,
+          when he got his model Puritan done, nobody ever knew what he was meant for; and
+          then all the young ladies voted steady Henry Morton a bore, and went to falling
+          in love with his Cavalier rival, Lord Evandale, and people talked as if it was
+          a preconcerted arrangement of Scott, to surprise the female heart, and carry it
+          over to the royalist side.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The fact was, in describing Evandale he made a living, effective
+          character, because he was describing something he had full sympathy with, and
+          put his whole life into; but Henry Morton is a laborious arrangement of starch
+          and pasteboard to produce one of those supposititious, just-right men, who are
+          always the stupidest of mortals after they are made. As to why Scott did not
+          describe such a character as the martyr Duke of Argyle, or Hampden, or Sir
+          Harry Vane, where high birth, and noble breeding, and chivalrous sentiment were
+          all united with intense devotional fervor, the answer is, that he could not do
+          it; he had not that in him wherewith to do it; a man cannot create that of
+          which he has not first had the elements in himself; and devotional enthusiasm
+          is a thing which Scott never felt. Nevertheless, I believe that he was
+          perfectly sincere in saying that he would, "if necessary, die a martyr for
+          Christianity." He had calm, firm principle to any extent, but it never was
+          kindled into fervor. He was of too calm and happy a temperament to sound the
+          deepest recesses of souls torn up from their depths by mighty conflicts and
+          sorrows. There are souls like the "alabaster vase of ointment, very precious,"
+          which shed no perfume of devotion because a great sorrow has never broken them.
+          Could Scott have been given back to the world again after the heavy discipline
+          of life had passed over him, he would have spoken otherwise of many things.
+          What he vainly struggled to say to Lockhart on his death bed would have been a
+          new revelation, of his soul to the world, could he have lived to unfold it in
+          literature. But so it is: when we have learned to live, life's purpose is
+          answered, and we die!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This is the sum and substance of some conversations held while
+          rambling among these scenes, going in and out of arches, climbing into nooks
+          and through loopholes, picking moss and ivy, and occasionally retreating under
+          the shadow of some arch, while the skies were indulging in a sudden burst of
+          emotion. The poor woman who acted as our guide, ensconcing herself in a dry
+          corner, stood like a literal Patience on a monument, waiting for us to be
+          through; we were sorry for her, but as it was our first and last chance, and
+          she would stay there, we could not help it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Near by the abbey is a square, modern mansion, belonging to the
+          Earl of Buchan, at present untenanted. There were some black, solemn yew trees
+          there, old enough to have told us a deal of history had they been inclined to
+          speak; as it was, they could only drizzle.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we were walking through the yard, a bird broke out into a
+          clear, sweet song.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"What bird is that?" said I.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I think it is the mavis," said the guide. This brought
+          up,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The mavis wild, wie mony a note,</p>
+            <p class="l">Sings drowsy day to rest."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">And also,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Merry it is in wild green wood,</p>
+            <p class="l">When mavis and merle are singing."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">A verse, by the by, dismally suggestive of contrast to this
+          rainy day.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we came along out of the gate, walking back towards the
+          village of Dryburgh, we began, to hope that the skies had fairly wept
+          themselves out; at any rate the rain stopped, and the clouds wore a sulky,
+          leaden-gray aspect, as if they were thinking what to do next.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We saw a knot of respectable-looking laboring men at a little
+          distance, conversing in a group, and now and then stealing glances at us; one
+          of them at last approached and inquired if this was Mrs. Stowe, and being
+          answered in the affirmative, they all said heartily, "Madam, ye're right
+          welcome to Scotland." The chief speaker, then, after a little conversation,
+          asked our party if we would do him the favor to step into his cottage near by,
+          to take a little refreshment after our ramble; to which we assented with
+          alacrity. He led the way to a neat, stone cottage, with a flower garden before
+          the door, and said to a thrifty, rosy-cheeked woman, who met us, "Well, and
+          what do you think, wife, if I have brought Mrs. Stowe and her party to take a
+          cup of tea with us?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were soon seated in a neat, clean kitchen, and our hostess
+          hastened to put the teakettle over the grate, lamenting that she had not known
+          of our coming, that she might have had a fire "ben the house," meaning by the
+          phrase what we Yankees mean by "in the best room." We caught a glimpse of the
+          carpet and paper of this room, when the door was opened to bring out a few more
+          chairs.</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Belyve the bairns cam dropping in,"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">rosy-cheeked, fresh from school, with satchel and school
+          books, to whom I was introduced as the mother of Topsy and Eva.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Ah," said the father, "such a time as we had, when we were
+          reading the book; whiles they were greetin' and whiles in a rage."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">My host was quite a young-looking man, with the clear blue eye
+          and glowing complexion which one so often meets here; and his wife, with her
+          blooming cheeks, neat dress, and well-kept house, was evidently one of those
+          fully competent</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"To gar old claes look amaist as weel as new."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I inquired the ages of the several children, to which the
+          father answered with about as much chronological accuracy as men generally
+          display in such points of family history. The gude wife, after correcting his
+          figures once or twice, turned away with a somewhat indignant exclamation about
+          men that didn't know their own bairns' ages, in which many of us, I presume,
+          could sympathize.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I must not omit to say, that a neighbor of our host had been
+          pressed to come in with us; an intelligent-looking man, about fifty. In the
+          course of conversation, I found that they were both masons by trade, and as the
+          rain had prevented their working, they had met to spend their time in reading.
+          They said they were reading a work on America; and thereat followed a good deal
+          of general conversation on our country. I found that, like many others in this
+          old country, they had a tie to connect them with the new&mdash;a son in
+          America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One of our company, in the course of the conversation, says,
+          "They say in America that the working classes of England and Scotland are not
+          so well off as the slaves." The man's eye flashed. "There are many things," he
+          said, "about the working classes, which are not what they should be; there's
+          room for a great deal of improvement in our condition, but," he added with an
+          emphasis, "we are <em>no slaves!</em>" There was a, touch, of the</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Scots wha ha' wi' Wallace bled"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">about the man, as he spoke, which made the affirmation
+          quite unnecessary.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"But," said I, "you think the affairs of the working classes
+          much improved of late years?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"O, certainly," said the other; "since the repeal of the corn
+          laws and the passage of the factory bill, and this emigration to America and
+          Australia, affairs have been very much altered."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We asked them what they could make a day by their trade. It was
+          much less, certainly, than is paid for the same labor in our country; but yet
+          the air of comfort and respectability about the cottage, the well-clothed and
+          well-schooled, intelligent children, spoke well for the result of their
+          labors.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">While our conversation was carried on, the teakettle commenced
+          singing most melodiously, and by a mutual system of accommodation, a neat tea
+          table was spread in the midst of us, and we soon found ourselves seated,
+          enjoying some delicious bread and butter, with the garniture of cheese,
+          preserves, and tea. Our host before the meal craved a blessing of Him who had
+          made of one blood all the families of the earth; a beautiful and touching
+          allusion, I thought, between Americans and Scotchmen. Our long ramble in the
+          rain had given us something of an appetite, and we did ample justice to the
+          excellence of the cheer.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After tea we walked on down again towards the Tweed, our host
+          and his friends waiting on us to the boat. As we passed through the village of
+          Dryburgh, all the inhabitants of the cottages seemed to be standing in their
+          doors, bowing and smiling, and expressing their welcome in a gentle, kindly
+          way, that was quite touching.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we were walking towards the Tweed, the Eildon Hill, with its
+          three points, rose before us in the horizon. I thought of the words in the Lay
+          of the Last Minstrel:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Warrior, I could say to thee,</p>
+            <p class="l">The words that cleft Eildon Hill in three,</p>
+            <p class="l">And bridled the Tweed with a curb of stone."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I appealed to my friends if they knew any thing about the
+          tradition; I thought they seemed rather reluctant to speak of it. O, there was
+          some foolish story, they believed; they did not well know what it was.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The picturesque age of human childhood is gone by; men and women
+          cannot always be so accommodating as to believe unreasonable stories for the
+          convenience of poets.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At the Tweed the man with the skiff was waiting for us. In
+          parting with my friend, I said, "Farewell. I hope we may meet again some
+          time."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I am sure we shall, madam," said he; "if not here, certainly
+          hereafter."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After being rowed across I stopped a few moments to admire the
+          rippling of the clear water over the pebbles. "I want some of these pebbles of
+          the Tweed," I said, "to carry home to America." Two hearty, rosy-cheeked Scotch
+          lasses on the shore soon supplied me with as many as I could carry.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We got into our carriage, and drove up to Melrose. After a
+          little negotiation with the keeper, the doors were unlocked. Just at that
+          moment the sun was so gracious as to give a full look through the windows, and
+          touch with streaks of gold the green, grassy floor; for the beautiful ruin is
+          floored with green grass and roofed with sky: even poetry has not exaggerated
+          its beauty, and could not. There is never any end to the charms of Gothic
+          architecture. It is like the beauty of Cleopatra,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Age cannot wither, custom, cannot stale</p>
+            <p class="l">Her infinite variety."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Here is this Melrose, now, which has been berhymed,
+          bedraggled through infinite guide books, and been gaped at and smoked at by
+          dandies, and been called a "dear love" by pretty young ladies, and been hawked
+          about as a trade article in all neighboring shops, and you know perfectly well
+          that all your raptures are spoken for and expected at the door, and your going
+          off in an ecstasy is a regular part of the programme; and yet, after all, the
+          sad, wild, sweet beauty of the thing comes down on one like a cloud; even for
+          the sake of being original you could not, in conscience, declare you did not
+          admire it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went into a minute examination with our guide, a young man,
+          who seemed to have a full sense of its peculiar beauties. I must say here, that
+          Walter Scott's description in the Lay of the Last Minstrel is as perfect in
+          most details as if it had been written by an architect as well as a
+          poet&mdash;it is a kind of glorified daguerreotype.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This building was the first of the elaborate and fanciful Gothic
+          which I had seen, and is said to excel in the delicacy of its carving any
+          except Roslin Castle. As a specimen of the exactness of Scott's description,
+          take this verse, where he speaks of the cloisters:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Spreading herbs and flowerets bright,</p>
+            <p class="l">Glistened with the dew of night,</p>
+            <p class="l">Nor herb nor floweret glistened there,</p>
+            <p class="l">But were carved in the cloister arches as fair."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">These cloisters were covered porticoes surrounding the
+          garden, where the monks walked for exercise. They are now mostly destroyed, but
+          our guide showed us the remains of exquisite carvings there, in which each
+          group was an imitation of some leaf or flower, such as the curly kail of
+          Scotland; a leaf, by the by, as worthy of imitation as the Greek acanthus, the
+          trefoil oak, and some other leaves, the names of which I do not remember. These
+          Gothic artificers were lovers of nature; they studied at the fountain head;
+          hence the never-dying freshness, variety, and originality of their
+          conceptions.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Another passage, whose architectural accuracy you feel at once,
+          is this:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"They entered now the chancel tall;</p>
+            <p class="l">The darkened, roof rose high, aloof</p>
+            <p class="l">On pillars lofty, light, and small:</p>
+            <p class="l">The keystone that locked, each ribbed aisle</p>
+            <p class="l">Was a fleur-de-lis, or a quatre-feuille;</p>
+            <p class="l">The corbels were carved grotesque and grim;</p>
+            <p class="l">And the pillars, with, clustered shafts so trim,</p>
+            <p class="l">With, base and with capital flourished around,</p>
+            <p class="l">Seemed bundles of lances which garlands had bound."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The quatre-feuille here spoken of is an ornament formed by
+          the junction of four leaves. The frequent recurrence of the fleur-de-lis in the
+          carvings here shows traces of French hands employed in the architecture. In one
+          place in the abbey there is a rude inscription, in which a French architect
+          commemorates the part he has borne in constructing the building.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These corbels are the projections from which, the arches spring,
+          usually carved in some fantastic mask or face; and on these the Shakspearian
+          imagination of the Gothic artists seems to have let itself loose to run riot:
+          there is every variety of expression, from, the most beautiful to the most
+          goblin and grotesque. One has the leer of fiendish triumph, with budding horns,
+          showing too plainly his paternity; again you have the drooping eyelids and
+          saintly features of some fair virgin; and then the gasping face of some old
+          monk, apparently in the agonies of death, with his toothless gums, hollow
+          cheeks, and sunken eyes. Other faces have an earthly and sensual leer; some are
+          wrought into expressions of scorn and mockery, some of supplicating agony, and
+          some of grim, despair.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One wonders what gloomy, sarcastic, poetic, passionate mind has
+          thus amused itself, recording in stone all the range of passions&mdash;saintly,
+          earthly, and diabolic&mdash;on the varying human face. One fancies each corbel
+          to have had its history, its archetype in nature; a thousand possible stories
+          spring into one's mind. They are wrought with such a startling and individual
+          definiteness, that one feels as about Shakspeare's characters, as if they must
+          have had a counterpart in real existence. The pure, saintly nun may have been
+          some sister, or some daughter, or some early love, of the artist, who in an
+          evil hour saw the convent barriers rise between her and all that was loving.
+          The fat, sensual face may have been a sly sarcasm on some worthy abbot, more
+          eminent in flesh than spirit. The fiendish faces may have been wrought out of
+          the author's own perturbed dreams.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">An architectural work says that one of these corbels, with an
+          anxious and sinister Oriental countenance, has been made, by the guides, to
+          perform duty as an authentic likeness of the wizard Michael Scott. Now, I must
+          earnestly protest against stating things in that way. Why does a writer want to
+          break up so laudable a poetic design in the guides? He would have been much
+          better occupied in interpreting some of the half-defaced old inscriptions into
+          a corroborative account. No doubt it <em>was</em> Michael Scott, and looked
+          just like him.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It were a fine field for a story writer to analyze the
+          conception and growth of an abbey or cathedral as it formed itself, day after
+          day, and year after year, in the soul of some dreamy, impassioned workman, who
+          made it the note book where he wrought out imperishably in stone all his
+          observations on nature and man. I think it is this strong individualism of the
+          architect in the buildings that give the never-dying charm, and variety to the
+          Gothic: each Gothic building is a record of the growth, character, and
+          individualities of its builder's soul; and hence no two can be alike.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I was really disappointed to miss in the abbey the stained glass
+          which gives such a lustre and glow to the poetic description. I might have
+          known better; but somehow I came there fully expecting to see the window,
+          where&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Full in the midst his cross of red</p>
+            <p class="l">Triumphant Michael brandished;</p>
+            <p class="l">The moonbeam kissed the holy pane,</p>
+            <p class="l">And threw on the pavement the bloody stain."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Alas! the painted glass was all of the poet's own setting;
+          years ago it was shattered by the hands of violence, and the grace of the
+          fashion of it hath perished.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The guide pointed to a broken fragment which commanded a view of
+          the whole interior. "Sir Walter used to sit here," he said. I fancied I could
+          see him sitting on the fragment, gazing around the ruin, and mentally restoring
+          it to its original splendor; he brings back the colored light into the windows,
+          and throws its many-hued reflections over the graves; he ranges the banners
+          along around the walls, and rebuilds every shattered arch and aisle, till we
+          have the picture as it rises on us in his book.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I confess to a strong feeling of reality, when my guide took me
+          to a grave where a flat, green, mossy stone, broken across the middle, is
+          reputed to be the grave of Michael Scott. I felt, for the moment, verily
+          persuaded that if the guide would pry up one of the stones we should see him
+          there, as described:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"His hoary beard in silver rolled,</p>
+            <p class="l">He seemed some seventy winters old;</p>
+            <p class="l">A palmer's amice wrapped, him round,</p>
+            <p class="l">With a wrought Spanish baldric bound,</p>
+            <p class="l">Like a pilgrim from beyond the sea:</p>
+            <p class="l">His left hand held his book of might;</p>
+            <p class="l">A silver cross was in his right;</p>
+            <p class="l">The lamp was placed beside his knee:</p>
+            <p class="l">High and majestic was his look,</p>
+            <p class="l">At which, the fellest fiends had shook,</p>
+            <p class="l">And all unruffled, was his face:</p>
+            <p class="l">They trusted his soul had gotten grace."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I never knew before how fervent a believer I had been in
+          the realities of these things.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There are two graves that I saw, which correspond to those
+          mentioned in these lines:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"And there the dying lamps did burn</p>
+            <p class="l">Before thy lone and lowly urn,</p>
+            <p class="l">O gallafit chief of Otterburne,</p>
+            <p class="l">And thine, dark knight of Liddesdale."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The Knight of Otterburne was one of the Earls Douglas,
+          killed in a battle with Henry Percy, called Hotspur, in 1388. The Knight of
+          Liddesdale was another Douglas, who lived in the reign of David II., and was
+          called the "Flower of Chivalry." One performance of this "Flower" is rather
+          characteristic of the times. It seems the king made one Ramsey high sheriff of
+          Teviotdale. The Earl of Douglas chose to consider this as a personal affront,
+          as he wanted the office himself. So, by way of exhibiting his own
+          qualifications for administering justice, he one day came down on Ramsey,
+          <em>vi et armis</em>, took him off his judgment seat, carried him to one of his
+          castles, and without more words tumbled him and his horse into a deep dungeon,
+          where they both starved to death. There's a "Flower" for you, peculiar to the
+          good old times. Nobody could have doubted after this his qualifications to be
+          high sheriff.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Having looked all over the abbey from, below, I noticed a
+          ruinous winding staircase; so up I went, rustling along through the ivy, which
+          matted and wove itself around the stones. Soon I found myself looking down on
+          the abbey from a new point of view&mdash;from a little narrow stone gallery,
+          which threads the whole inside of the building. There I paced up and down,
+          looking occasionally through the ivy-wreathed arches on the green, turfy floor
+          below.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It seems as if silence and stillness had become a real presence
+          in these old places. The voice of the guide and the company beneath had a
+          hushed and muffled sound; and when I rustled the ivy leaves, or, in trying to
+          break off a branch, loosened some fragment of stone, the sound affected me with
+          a startling distinctness. I could not but inly muse and wonder on the life
+          these old monks and abbots led, shrined up here as they were in this lovely
+          retirement.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In ruder ages these places were the only retreat for men of a
+          spirit too gentle to take force and bloodshed for their life's work; men who
+          believed that pen and parchment were better than sword and steel. Here I
+          suppose multitudes of them lived harmless, dreamy lives&mdash;reading old
+          manuscripts, copying and illuminating new ones.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is said that this Melrose is of very ancient origin,
+          extending back to the time of the Culdees, the earliest missionaries who
+          established religion in Scotland, and who had a settlement in this vicinity.
+          However, a royal saint, after a while, took it in hand to patronize, and of
+          course the credit went to him, and from, him Scott calls it "St. David's lonely
+          pile." In time a body of Cistercian monks were settled there.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">According to all accounts the abbey has raised some famous
+          saints. We read of trances, illuminations, and miraculous beatifications; and
+          of one abbot in particular, who exhibited the odor of sanctity so strongly that
+          it is said the mere opening of his grave, at intervals, was sufficient to
+          perfume the whole establishment with odors of paradise. Such stories apart,
+          however, we must consider that for all the literature, art, and love of the
+          beautiful, all the humanizing influences which hold society together, the world
+          was for many ages indebted to these monastic institutions.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the reformation, this abbey was destroyed amid the general
+          storm, which attacked the ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland. "Pull down
+          the nest, and the rooks will fly away," was the common saying of the mob; and
+          in those days a man was famous according as he had lifted up axes upon the
+          carved work.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Melrose was considered for many years merely a stone quarry,
+          from which materials were taken for all sorts of buildings, such as
+          constructing tolbooths, repairing mills and sluices; and it has been only till
+          a comparatively recent period that its priceless value as an architectural
+          remain has led to proper efforts for its preservation. It is now most carefully
+          kept.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After wandering through the inside we walked out into the old
+          graveyard, to look at the outside. The yard is full of old, curious, mouldering
+          gravestones; and on one of them there is an inscription sad and peculiar enough
+          to have come from the heart of the architect who planned the abbey; it runs as
+          follows:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The earth walks on the earth, glittering with gold;</p>
+            <p class="l">The earth goes to the earth sooner than it wold;</p>
+            <p class="l">The earth, builds on the earth, castles and towers;</p>
+            <p class="l">The earth, says to the earth, All shall be ours."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="dgp">Here, also, we were interested in a plain marble slab, which
+          marks the last resting-place of Scott's faithful Tom Purdie, his zealous
+          factotum. In his diary, when he hears of the wreck of his fortunes, Scott says
+          of this serving man, "Poor Tom Purdie, such news will wring your heart, and
+          many a poor fellow's beside, to whom my prosperity was daily bread."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One fancies again the picture described by Lockhart, the strong,
+          lank frame, hard features, sunken eyes, and grizzled eyebrows, the green
+          jacket, white hat, and gray trousers&mdash;the outer appointments of the
+          faithful serving man. One sees Scott walking familiarly by his side, staying
+          himself on Tom's shoulder, while Tom talks with glee of "<em>our</em> trees,"
+          and "<em>our</em> bukes." One sees the little skirmishing, when master wants
+          trees planted one way and man sees best to plant them another; and the
+          magnanimity with which kindly, cross-grained Tom at last agrees, on reflection,
+          to "take his honor's advice" about the management of his honor's own property.
+          Here, between master and man, both freemen, is all that beauty of relation
+          sometimes erroneously considered as the peculiar charm of slavery. Would it
+          have made the relation any more picturesque and endearing had Tom been stripped
+          of legal rights, and made liable to sale with the books and furniture of
+          Abbotsford? Poor Tom is sleeping here very quietly, with a smooth coverlet of
+          green grass. Over him is the following inscription: "Here lies the body of
+          Thomas Purdie, wood forester at Abbotsford, who died 29th October, 1829, aged
+          sixty-two years. Thou hast been faithful over a few things; I will make thee
+          ruler over many things." Matt. xxv. 21.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We walked up, and down, and about, getting the best views of the
+          building. It is scarcely possible for description to give you the picture. The
+          artist, in whose mind the conception of this building arose, was a Mozart in
+          architecture; a plaintive and ethereal lightness, a fanciful quaintness,
+          pervaded his composition. The building is not a large one, and it has not that
+          air of solemn massive grandeur, that plain majesty, which impresses you in the
+          cathedrals of Aberdeen and Glasgow. As you stand looking at the wilderness of
+          minarets and flying buttresses, the multiplied shrines, and mouldings, and
+          cornices, all incrusted with carving as endless in its variety as the frostwork
+          on a window pane; each shrine, each pinnace, each moulding, a study by itself,
+          yet each contributing, like the different strains of a harmony, to the general
+          effect of the whole; it seems to you that for a thing so airy and spiritual to
+          have sprung up by enchantment, and to have been the product of spells and fairy
+          fingers, is no improbable account of the matter.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Speaking of gargoyles&mdash;you are no architect, neither am I,
+          but you may as well get used to this descriptive term; it means the
+          water-spouts which conduct the water from the gutters at the eaves of these
+          buildings, and which are carved in every grotesque and fanciful device that can
+          be imagined. They are mostly goblin and fiendish faces, and look as if they
+          were darting out of the church in a towering passion, or a fit of diabolic
+          disgust and malice. Besides these gargoyles, there are in many other points of
+          the external building representations of fiendish faces and figures, as if in
+          the act of flying from the building, under the influence of a terrible spell:
+          by this, as my guide said, was expressed the idea that the holy hymns and
+          worship of the church put Satan and all his forces to rout, and made all that
+          was evil flee.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One remark on this building, in Billings's architectural account
+          of it, interested me; and that is, that it is finished with the most
+          circumstantial elegance and minuteness in those concealed portions which are
+          excluded, from public view, and which can only be inspected by laborious
+          climbing or groping; and he accounts for this by the idea that the whole
+          carving and execution was considered as an act of solemn worship and adoration,
+          in which the artist offered up his best faculties to the praise of the
+          Creator.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image18.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">After lingering a while here, we went home to our inn or hotel.
+          Now, these hotels in the small towns of England, if this is any specimen, are
+          delightful affairs for travellers, they are so comfortable and home-like. Our
+          snug little parlor was radiant with the light of the coal grate; our table
+          stood before it, with its bright silver, white cloth, and delicate china cups;
+          and then such a dish of mutton chops! My dear, we are all mortal, and emotions
+          of the beautiful and sublime tend especially to make one hungry. We, therefore,
+          comforted ourselves over the instability of earthly affairs, and the transitory
+          nature of all human grandeur, by consolatory remarks on the <em>present</em>
+          whiteness of the bread, the sweetness of the butter; and as to the chops, all
+          declared, with one voice, that such mutton was a thing unknown in America. I
+          moved an emendation, except on the sea coast of Maine. We resolved to cherish
+          the memory of our little hostess in our heart of hearts, and as we gathered
+          round the cheery grate, drying our cold feet, we voted that poetry was a
+          humbug, and damp, old, musty cathedrals a bore. Such are the inconsistencies of
+          human nature!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Nevertheless," said I to S&mdash;&mdash;, after dinner, "I am
+          going back again to-night, to see that abbey by moonlight. I intend to walk the
+          whole figure while I am about it."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Just on the verge of twilight I stepped out, to see what the
+          town afforded in the way of relics. To say the truth, my eye had been caught by
+          some cunning little tubs and pails in a window, which I thought might be valued
+          in the home department. I went into a shop, where an auld wife soon appeared,
+          who, in reply to my inquiries, told me, that the said little tubs and pails
+          were made of plum tree wood from Dryburgh Abbey, and, of course, partook of the
+          sanctity of relics. She and her husband seemed to be driving a thriving trade
+          in the article, and either plum trees must be very abundant at Dryburgh, or
+          what there are must be gifted with that power of self-multiplication which
+          inheres in the wood of the true Cross. I bought them in blind faith, however,
+          suppressing all rationalistic doubts, as a good relic hunter should.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I went up into a little room where an elderly woman professed to
+          have quite a collection of the Melrose relics. Some years ago extensive
+          restorations and repairs were made in the old abbey, in which Walter Scott took
+          a deep interest. At that time, when the scaffolding was up for repairing the
+          building, as I understood, Scott had the plaster casts made of different parts,
+          which he afterwards incorporated into his own dwelling at Abbotsford. I said to
+          the good woman that I had understood by Washington Irving's account, that Scott
+          appropriated <em>bona fide</em> fragments of the building, and alluded to the
+          account which he gives of the little red sandstone lion from Melrose. She
+          repelled the idea with great energy, and said she had often heard Sir Walter
+          say, that he would not carry off a bit of the building as big as his thumb. She
+          showed me several plaster casts that she had in her possession, which were
+          taken at this time. There were several corbels there; one was the head of an
+          old monk, and looked as if it might have been a mask taken of his face the
+          moment after death; the eyes were hollow and sunken, the cheeks fallen in, the
+          mouth lying helplessly open, showing one or two melancholy old stumps of teeth.
+          I wondered over this, whether it really was the fac-simile of some poor old
+          Father Ambrose, or Father Francis, whose disconsolate look, after his death
+          agony, had so struck the gloomy fancy of the artist as to lead him to
+          immortalize him in a corbel, for a lasting admonition to his fat worldly
+          brethren; for if we may trust the old song, these monks of Melrose had rather a
+          suspicious reputation in the matter of worldly conformity. The impudent ballad
+          says,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"O, the monks of Melrose, they made good, kail</p>
+            <p class="l">On Fridays, when they fasted;</p>
+            <p class="l">They never wanted beef or ale</p>
+            <p class="l">As long as their neighbors' lasted."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Naughty, roistering fellows! I thought I could perceive how
+          this poor Father Francis had worn his life out exhorting them to repentance,
+          and given up the ghost at last in despair, and so been made at once into a
+          saint and a corbel.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were fragments of tracery, of mouldings and cornices, and
+          grotesque bits of architecture there, which I would have given a good deal to
+          be the possessor of. Stepping into a little cottage hard by to speak to the
+          guide about unlocking the gates, when we went out on our moonlight excursion at
+          midnight, I caught a glimpse, in an inner apartment, of a splendid, large,
+          black dog. I gave one exclamation and jump, and was into the room after
+          him.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Ah," said the old man, "that was just like Sir Walter; he
+          always had an eye for a dog."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It gave me a kind of pain to think of him and his dogs, all
+          lying in the dust together; and yet it was pleasant to hear this little remark
+          of him, as if it were made by those who had often seen, and were fond of
+          thinking of him. The dog's name was Coal, and he was black enough, and
+          remarkable enough, to make a figure in a story&mdash;a genuine Melrose Abbey
+          dog. I should not wonder if he were a descendant, in a remote degree, of the
+          "mauthe doog," that supernatural beast, which Scott commemorates in his notes.
+          The least touch in the world of such blood in his veins would be, of course, an
+          appropriate circumstance in a dog belonging to an old ruined abbey.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Well, I got home, and narrated my adventures to my friends, and
+          showed them my reliquary purchases, and declared my strengthening intention to
+          make my ghostly visit by moonlight, if there was any moon to be had that night,
+          which was a doubtful possibility.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the course of the evening came in Mr. &mdash;&mdash;, who had
+          volunteered his services as guide and attendant during the interesting
+          operation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"When does the moon rise?" said one.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"O, a little after eleven o'clock, I believe," said Mr.
+          &mdash;&mdash;.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Some of the party gaped portentously.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"You know," said I, "Scott says we must see it by moonlight; it
+          is one of the proprieties of the place, as I understand."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"How exquisite that description is, of the effect of moonlight!"
+          says another.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I think it probable," says Mr. &mdash;&mdash;, dryly, "that
+          Scott never saw it by moonlight himself. He was a man of very regular habits,
+          and seldom went out evenings."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The blank amazement with which this communication was received
+          set S&mdash;&mdash; into an inextinguishable fit of laughter.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"But do you really believe he never saw it?" said I, rather
+          crestfallen.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Well," said the gentleman, "I have heard him charged with never
+          having seen it, and he never denied it."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Knowing that Scott really was as practical a man as Dr.
+          Franklin, and as little disposed to poetic extravagances, and an exceedingly
+          sensible, family kind of person, I thought very probably this might be true,
+          unless he had seen it some time in his early youth. Most likely good Mrs. Scott
+          never would have let him commit the impropriety that we were about to, and run
+          the risk of catching the rheumatism by going out to see how an old abbey looked
+          at twelve o'clock at night.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We waited for the moon to rise, and of course it did not rise;
+          nothing ever does when it is waited for. We went to one window, and went to
+          another; half past eleven came, and no moon. "Let us give it up," said I,
+          feeling rather foolish. However, we agreed to wait another quarter of an hour,
+          and finally Mr. &mdash;&mdash; announced that the moon <em>was</em> risen; the
+          only reason we did not see it was, because it was behind the Eildon Hills. So
+          we voted to consider her risen at any rate, and started out in the dark,
+          threading the narrow streets of the village with the comforting reflection that
+          we were doing what Sir Walter would think rather a silly thing. When we got out
+          before the abbey there was enough light behind the Eildon Hills to throw their
+          three shadowy cones out distinctly to view, and to touch with a gloaming,
+          uncertain ray the ivy-clad walls. As we stood before the abbey, the guide
+          fumbling with his keys, and finally heard the old lock clash as the door slowly
+          opened to admit us, I felt a little shiver of the ghostly come over me, just
+          enough to make it agreeable.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the daytime we had criticized Walter Scott's moonlight
+          description in the lines which say,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The distant Tweed is heard, to rave,</p>
+            <p class="l">And the owlet to hoot o'er the dead man's grave."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">"We hear nothing of the Tweed, at any rate," said we; "that
+          must be a poetic license." But now at midnight, as we walked silently through
+          the mouldering aisles, the brawl of the Tweed was so distinctly heard that it
+          seemed as if it was close by the old, lonely pile; nor can any term describe
+          the sound more exactly than the word "rave," which the poet has chosen. It was
+          the precise accuracy of this little item of description which made me feel as
+          if Scott must have been here in the night. I walked up into the old chancel,
+          and sat down where William of Deloraine and the monk sat, on the Scottish
+          monarch's tomb, and thought over the words</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Strange sounds along the chancel passed,</p>
+            <p class="l">And banners wave without a blast;</p>
+            <p class="l">Still spake the monk when the bell tolled one."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">And while we were there the bell tolled twelve.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">And then we went to Michael Scott's grave, and we looked through
+          the east oriel, with its</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Slender shafts of shapely stone,</p>
+            <p class="l">By foliage tracery combined."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The fanciful outlines showed all the more distinctly for
+          the entire darkness within, and the gloaming moonlight without. The tall arches
+          seemed higher in their dimness, and vaster than they did in the daytime.
+          "Hark!" said I; "what's that?" as we heard a rustling and flutter of wings in
+          the ivy branches over our heads. Only a couple of rooks, whose antiquarian
+          slumbers were disturbed by the unwonted noise there at midnight, and who rose
+          and flew away, rattling down some fragments of the ruin as they went. It was
+          somewhat odd, but I could not help fancying, what if these strange, goblin
+          rooks were the spirits of old monks coming back to nestle and brood among their
+          ancient cloisters! Rooks are a ghostly sort of bird. I think they were made on
+          purpose to live in old yew trees and ivy, as much as yew trees and ivy were to
+          grow round old churches and abbeys. If we once could get inside of a rook's
+          skull, to find out what he is thinking of, I'll warrant that we should know a
+          great deal more about these old buildings than we do now. I should not wonder
+          if there were long traditionary histories handed down from one generation of
+          rooks to another, and that these are what they are talking about when we think
+          they are only chattering. I imagine I see the whole black fraternity the next
+          day, sitting, one on a gargoyle, one on a buttress, another on a shrine,
+          gossiping over the event of our nightly visit.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image19.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">We walked up and down the long aisles, and groped out into the
+          cloisters; and then I thought, to get the full ghostliness of the thing, we
+          would go up the old, ruined staircase into the long galleries, that</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Midway thread the abbey wall."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">We got about half way up, when there came into our faces
+          one of those sudden, passionate puffs of mist and rain which Scotch clouds seem
+          to have the faculty of getting up at a minute's notice. Whish! came the wind in
+          our faces, like the rustling of a whole army of spirits down the staircase;
+          whereat we all tumbled back promiscuously on to each other, and concluded we
+          would not go up. In fact we had done the thing, and so we went home; and I
+          dreamed of arches, and corbels, and gargoyles all night. And so, farewell to
+          Melrose Abbey.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_26" name="toc_26"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter IX</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">Edinburgh</span>, April.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          Sister</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. S. and C&mdash;&mdash; returned from their trip to Glasgow
+          much delighted with the prospects indicated by the results of the temperance
+          meetings they attended there.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">They were present at the meeting of the Scottish Temperance
+          League, in an audience of about four thousand people. The reports were
+          encouraging, and the feeling enthusiastic. One hundred and eighty ministers are
+          on the list of the League, forming a nucleus of able, talented, and determined
+          operators. It is the intention to make a movement for a law which shall secure
+          to Scotland some of the benefits of the Maine law.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It appears to me that on the questions of temperance and
+          antislavery, the religious communities of the two countries are in a situation
+          mutually to benefit each other. Our church and ministry have been through a
+          long struggle and warfare on this temperance question, in which a very valuable
+          experience has been, elaborated. The religious people of Great Britain, on the
+          contrary, have led on to a successful result a great antislavery experiment,
+          wherein their experience and success can be equally beneficial and encouraging
+          to us.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The day after we returned from Melrose we spent in resting and
+          riding about, as we had two engagements in the evening&mdash;one at a party at
+          the house of Mr. Douglas, of Cavers, and the other at a public temperance
+          <em>soir&eacute;e</em>. Mr. Douglas is the author of several works which have
+          excited attention; but perhaps you will remember him best by his treatise on
+          the Advancement of Society in Religion and Knowledge. He is what is called here
+          a "laird," a man of good family, a large landed proprietor, a zealous reformer,
+          and a very devout man.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went early to spend a short time with the family. I was a
+          little surprised, as I entered the hall, to find myself in the midst of a large
+          circle of well-dressed men and women, who stood apparently waiting to receive
+          us, and who bowed, courtesied, and smiled as we came in. Mrs. D. apologized to
+          me afterwards, saying that these were the servants of the family, that they
+          were exceedingly anxious to see me, and so she had allowed them all to come
+          into the hall. They were so respectable in their appearance, and so neatly
+          dressed, that I might almost have mistaken them for visitors.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We had a very pleasant hour or two with the family, which I
+          enjoyed exceedingly. Mr. and Mrs. Douglas were full of the most considerate
+          kindness, and some of the daughters had intimate acquaintances in America. I
+          enjoy these little glimpses into family circles more than any thing else; there
+          is no warmth like fireside warmth.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening the rooms were filled. I should think all the
+          clergymen of Edinburgh must have been there, for I was introduced to ministers
+          without number. The Scotch have a good many little ways that are like ours;
+          they call their clergy ministers, as we do. There were many persons from
+          ancient families, distinguished in Scottish history both for rank and piety;
+          among others, Lady Carstairs, Sir Henry Moncrief and lady. There was also the
+          Countess of Gainsborough, one of the ladies of the queen's household, a very
+          beautiful woman with charming manners, reminding one of the line of
+          Pope&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Graceful ease, and sweetness void of pride."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I was introduced to Dr. John Brown, who is reckoned one of
+          the best exegetial scholars in Europe. He is small of stature, sprightly, and
+          pleasant in manners, but with a high bald forehead and snow-white hair.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were also many members of the faculty of the university. I
+          talked a little with Dr. Guthrie, whom I described in a former letter. I told
+          him that one thing which had been an agreeable disappointment to me was, the
+          apparent cordiality between the members of the Free and the National church. He
+          seemed to think that the wounds of the old conflict were, to a great extent,
+          healed. He spoke in high terms of the Duchess of Sutherland, her affability,
+          kindness, and considerateness to the poor. I forget from whom I received the
+          anecdote, but somebody told me this of her&mdash;that, one of her servants
+          having lost a relative, she had left a party where she was engaged, and gone in
+          the plainest attire and quietest way to attend the funeral. It was remarked
+          upon as showing her considerateness for the feelings of those in inferior
+          positions.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">About nine o'clock we left to go to the temperance
+          <em>soir&eacute;e</em>. It was in the same place, and conducted in the same
+          way, with the others which I have described. The lord provost presided, and one
+          or two of the working men who spoke in the former <em>soir&eacute;e</em> made
+          speeches, and very good ones too. The meeting was greatly enlivened by the
+          presence and speech of the jovial Lord Conynghame, who amused us all by the
+          gallant manner in which he expressed the warmth of Scottish welcome towards
+          "our American guests." If it had been in the old times of Scottish hospitality,
+          he said, he should have proposed a <em>bumper</em> three times three; but as
+          that could not be done in a temperance meeting, he proposed three cheers, in
+          which he led off with a hearty good will.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All that the Scotch people need now for the prosperity of their
+          country is the temperance reformation; and undoubtedly they will have it. They
+          have good sense and strength of mind enough to work out whatever they
+          choose.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went home tired enough.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next day we had a few calls to make, and an invitation from
+          Lady Drummond to visit "classic Hawthornden." Accordingly, in the forenoon, Mr.
+          S. and I called first on Lord and Lady Gainsborough; though, she is one of the
+          queen's household, she is staying here at Edinburgh, and the queen at Osborne.
+          I infer therefore that the appointment includes no very onerous duties. The
+          Earl of Gainsborough is the eldest brother of Rev. Baptist W. Noel.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Lady Gainsborough is the daughter of the Earl of Roden, who is
+          an Irish lord of the very strictest Calvinistic persuasion: He is a devout man,
+          and for many years, we were told, maintained a Calvinistic church of the
+          English establishment in Paris. While Mr. S. talked with Lord Gainsborough, I
+          talked with his lady, and Lady Roden, who was present. Lady Gainsborough
+          inquired about our schools for the poor, and how they were conducted. I
+          reflected a moment, and then answered that we had no schools for the poor as
+          such, but the common school was open alike to all classes.<a
+          href="#note_11"><span class="footnoteref">11</span></a></p>
+          <p class="dgp">In England and Scotland, in all classes, from the queen
+          downward, no movements are so popular as those for the education and elevation
+          of the poor; one is seldom in company without hearing the conversation turn
+          upon them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The conversation generally turned upon the condition of servants
+          in America. I said that one of the principal difficulties in American
+          housekeeping proceeded from the fact that there were so many other openings of
+          profit that very few were found willing to assume the position of the servant,
+          except as a temporary expedient; in fact, that the whole idea of service was
+          radically different, it being a mere temporary contract to render certain
+          services, not differing essentially from the contract of the mechanic or
+          tradesman. The ladies said they thought there could be no family feeling among
+          servants if that was the case; and I replied that, generally speaking, there
+          was none; that old and attached family servants in the free states were rare
+          exceptions.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This, I know, must look, to persons in old countries, like a
+          hard and discouraging feature of democracy. I regard it, however, as only a
+          temporary difficulty. Many institutions among us are in a transition state.
+          Gradually the whole subject of the relations of labor and the industrial
+          callings will assume a new form in America, and though we shall never be able
+          to command the kind of service secured in aristocratic countries, yet we shall
+          have that which will be as faithful and efficient. If domestic service can be
+          made as pleasant, profitable, and respectable as any of the industrial
+          callings, it will soon become as permanent.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our next visit was to Sir William Hamilton and lady. Sir William
+          is the able successor of Dugald Stewart and Dr. Brown in the chair of
+          intellectual philosophy. His writings have had a wide circulation in America.
+          He is a man of noble presence, though we were sorry to see that he was
+          suffering from ill health. It seems to me that Scotland bears that relation to
+          England, with regard to metaphysical inquiry, that New England does to the rest
+          of the United States. If one counts over the names of distinguished
+          metaphysicians, the Scotch, as compared with the English, number three to
+          one&mdash;Reid, Stewart, Brown, all Scotchmen.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Sir William still writes and lectures. He and Mr. S. were soon
+          discoursing on German, English, Scotch, and American metaphysics, while I was
+          talking with Lady Hamilton and her daughters. After we came away Mr. S. said,
+          that no man living had so thoroughly understood and analyzed the German
+          philosophy. He said that Sir William spoke of a call which he had received from
+          Professor Park, of Andover, and expressed himself in high terms of his
+          metaphysical powers.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After that we went to call on George Combe, the physiologist. We
+          found him and Mrs. Combe in a pleasant, sunny parlor, where, among other
+          objects of artistic interest, we saw a very fine engraving of Mrs. Siddons. I
+          was not aware until after leaving that Mrs. Combe is her daughter. Mr. Combe,
+          though somewhat advanced, seems full of life and animation, and conversed with
+          a great deal of warmth and interest on America, where he made a tour some years
+          since. Like other men in Europe who sympathize in our progress, he was sanguine
+          in the hope that the downfall of slavery must come at no distant date.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After a pleasant chat here we came home; and after an interval
+          of rest the carriage was at the door for Hawthornden. It is about seven miles
+          out from Edinburgh. It is a most romantic spot, on the banks of the River Esk,
+          now the seat of Mr. James Walker Drummond. Scott has sung in the ballad of the
+          Gray Brother,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">Sweet are the paths, O, passing sweet,</p>
+            <p class="l">By Esk's fair streams that run,</p>
+            <p class="l">O'er airy steep, through copse-woods deep,</p>
+            <p class="l">Impervious to the sun.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">Who knows not Melville's beechy grove,</p>
+            <p class="l">And Roslin's rocky glen,</p>
+            <p class="l">Dalkeith, which all the virtues love,</p>
+            <p class="l">And classic Hawthornden?</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">"Melville's beechy grove" is an allusion to the grounds of
+          Lord Melville, through which we drove on our way. The beech trees here are
+          magnificent; fully equal to any trees of the sort which I have seen in our
+          American forests, and they were in full leaf. They do not grow so high, but
+          have more breadth and a wider sweep of branches; on the whole they are well
+          worthy of a place in song.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image20.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">I know in my childhood I often used to wish that I could live in
+          a ruined castle; and this Hawthornden would be the very beau ideal of one as a
+          romantic dwelling-place. It is an old castellated house, perched on the airy
+          verge of a precipice, directly over the beautiful River Esk, looking down one
+          of the most romantic glens in Scotland. Part of it is in ruins, and, hung with
+          wreaths of ivy, it seems to stand just to look picturesque. The house itself,
+          with its quaint, high gables, and gray, antique walls, appears old enough to
+          take you back to the times of William Wallace. It is situated within an hour's
+          walk of Roslin Castle and Chapel, one of the most beautiful and poetic
+          architectural remains in Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our drive to the place was charming. It was a showery day; but
+          every few moments the sun blinked out, smiling through the falling rain, and
+          making the wet leaves glitter, and the raindrops wink at each other in the most
+          sociable manner possible. Arrived at the house, our friend, Miss
+          S&mdash;&mdash;, took us into a beautiful parlor overhanging the glen, each
+          window of which commanded a picture better than was ever made on canvas.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We had a little chat with Lady Drummond, and then we went down
+          to examine the caverns,&mdash;for there are caverns under the house, with long
+          galleries and passages running from them through the rocks, some way down the
+          river. Several apartments are hollowed out here in the rock on which the house
+          is founded, which they told us belonged to Bruce; the tradition being, that he
+          was hidden here for some months. There was his bed room, dining room, sitting
+          room, and a very curious apartment where the walls were all honeycombed into
+          little partitions, which they called his library, these little partitions being
+          his book shelves. There are small loophole windows in these apartments, where
+          you can look up and down the glen, and enjoy a magnificent prospect. For my
+          part, I thought if I were Bruce, sitting there with a book in my lap, listening
+          to the gentle brawl of the Esk, looking up and down the glen, watching the
+          shaking raindrops on the oaks, the birches and beeches, I should have thought
+          that was better than fighting, and that my pleasant little cave was as good an
+          arbor on the Hill Difficulty as ever mortal man enjoyed.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is a ponderous old two-handed sword kept here, said to
+          have belonged to Sir William Wallace. It is considerably shorter than it was
+          originally, but, resting on its point, it reached to the chin of a good six
+          foot gentleman of our party. The handle is made of the horn of a sea-horse, (if
+          you know what that is,) and has a heavy iron ball at the end. It must
+          altogether have weighed some ten or twelve pounds. Think of a man hewing away
+          <em>on men</em> with this!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is a well in this cavern, down which we were directed to
+          look and observe a hole in the side; this we were told was the entrance to
+          another set of caverns and chambers under those in which we were, and to
+          passages which extended down and opened out into the valley. In the olden days
+          the approach to these caverns was not through the house, but through the side
+          of a deep well sunk in the court yard, which communicates through a
+          subterranean passage with this well. Those seeking entrance were let down by a
+          windlass into the well in the court yard, and drawn up by a windlass into this
+          cavern. There was no such accommodation at present, but we were told some
+          enterprising tourists had explored the lower caverns. Pleasant kind of times
+          those old days must have been, when houses had to be built like a rabbit
+          burrow, with all these accommodations for concealment and escape.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After exploring the caverns we came up into the parlors again,
+          and Miss S. showed me a Scottish album, in which were all sorts of sketches,
+          memorials, autographs, and other such matters. What interested me more, she was
+          making a collection of Scottish ballads, words and tunes. I told her that I had
+          noticed, since I had been in Scotland, that the young ladies seemed to take
+          very little interest in the national Scotch airs, and were all devoted to
+          Italian; moreover, that the Scotch ballads and memories, which so interested
+          me, seemed to have very little interest for people generally in Scotland. Miss
+          S. was warm enough in her zeal to make up a considerable account, and so we got
+          on well together.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">While we were sitting, chatting, two young ladies came in, who
+          had walked up the glen despite the showery day. They were protected by good,
+          substantial outer garments, of a kind of shag or plush, and so did not fear the
+          rain. I wanted to walk down to Roslin Castle, but the party told me there would
+          not be time this afternoon, as we should have to return at a certain hour. I
+          should not have been reconciled to this, had not another excursion been
+          proposed for the purpose of exploring Roslin.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">However, I determined to go a little way down the glen, and get
+          a distant view of it, and my fair friends, the young ladies, offered to
+          accompany me; so off we started down the winding paths, which were cut among
+          the banks overhanging the Esk. The ground was starred over with patches of
+          pale-yellow primroses, and for the first time I saw the heather, spreading over
+          rocks and matting itself around the roots of trees. My companions, to whom it
+          was the commonest thing in the world, could hardly appreciate the delight which
+          I felt in looking at it; it was not in flower; I believe it does not blossom
+          till some time in July or August. We have often seen it in greenhouses, and it
+          is so hardy that it is singular it will not grow wild in America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We walked, ran, and scrambled to an eminence which commanded a
+          view of Roslin Chapel, the only view, I fear, which will ever gladden my eyes,
+          for the promised expedition to it dissolved itself into mist. When on the hill
+          top, so that I could see the chapel at a distance, I stood thinking over the
+          ballad of Harold, in the Lay of the Last Minstrel, and the fate of the lovely
+          Rosabel, and saying over to myself the last verses of the ballad:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"O'er Roslin, all that dreary night,</p>
+            <p class="l">A wondrous blaze was seen to gleam;</p>
+            <p class="l">'Twas broader than the watchfire's light,</p>
+            <p class="l">And redder than the bright moonbeam.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">It glared on Roslin's castled rock,</p>
+            <p class="l">It ruddied, all the copsewood glen;</p>
+            <p class="l">'Twas seen from Deyden's groves of oak,</p>
+            <p class="l">And seen from cavern'd Hawthornden.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">Seemed all on fire that chapel proud,</p>
+            <p class="l">Where Roslin's chiefs uncoffined lie,</p>
+            <p class="l">Each baron, for a sable shroud,</p>
+            <p class="l">Sheathed in his iron panoply.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">Seemed all on fire within, around,</p>
+            <p class="l">Deep sacristy and altar's pale;</p>
+            <p class="l">Shone every pillar foliage-bound,</p>
+            <p class="l">And glimmered, all the dead men's mail.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">Blazed battlement and pinnet high,</p>
+            <p class="l">Blazed every rose-carved buttress fair,</p>
+            <p class="l">So will they blaze, when fate is nigh</p>
+            <p class="l">The lordly line of high St. Clair.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">There are twenty of Roslin's barons bold</p>
+            <p class="l">Lie buried, within that proud chapelle;</p>
+            <p class="l">Each one the holy vault doth hold;</p>
+            <p class="l">But the sea holds lovely Rosabelle!</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">And each St. Clair was buried there,</p>
+            <p class="l">With candle, with book, and with knell;</p>
+            <p class="l">But the sea caves rung, and the wild winds sung,</p>
+            <p class="l">The dirge of lovely Rosabelle."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">There are many allusions in this which show Scott's minute
+          habits of observation; for instance, these two lines:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Blazed battlement and pinnet high,</p>
+            <p class="l">Blazed every rose-carved buttress fair."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Every buttress, battlement, and projection of the exterior
+          is incrusted with the most elaborate floral and leafy carving, among which the
+          rose is often repeated, from its suggesting, by similarity of sound,
+          Roslin.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Again, this line&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Shone every pillar foliage-bound"&mdash;</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="dgp">suggests to the mind the profusion and elaborateness of the
+          leafy decorations in the inside. Among these, one pillar, garlanded with spiral
+          wreaths of carved foliage, is called the "Apprentice's Pillar;" the tradition
+          being, that while the master was gone to Rome to get some further hints on
+          executing the plan, a precocious young mason, whom he left at home, completed
+          it in his absence. The master builder summarily knocked him on the head, as a
+          warning to all progressive young men not to grow wiser than their teachers.
+          Tradition points out the heads of the master and workmen among the corbels. So
+          you see, whereas in old Greek times people used to point out their celebrities
+          among the stars, and gave a defunct hero a place in the constellations, in the
+          middle ages he only got a place among the corbels.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I am increasingly sorry that I was beguiled out of my personal
+          examination of this chapel, since I have seen the plates of it in my Baronial
+          Sketches. It is the rival of Melrose, but more elaborate; in fact, it is a
+          perfect cataract of architectural vivacity and ingenuity, as defiant of any
+          rules of criticism and art as the leaf-embowered arcades and arches of our
+          American forest cathedrals. From the comparison of the plates of the
+          engravings, I should judge there was less delicacy of taste, and more
+          exuberance of invention, than in Melrose. One old prosaic commentator on it
+          says that it is quite remarkable that there are no two cuts in it precisely
+          alike; each buttress, window, and pillar is unique, though with such a general
+          resemblance to each other as to deceive the eye.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was built in 1446, by William St. Clair, who was Prince of
+          Orkney, Duke of Oldenburgh, Lord of Roslin, Earl of Caithness and Strathearn,
+          and so on <em>ad infinitum</em>. He was called the "Seemly St. Clair," from his
+          noble deportment and elegant manners; resided in royal splendor at this Castle
+          of Roslin, and kept a court there as Prince of Orkney. His table was served
+          with vessels of gold and silver, and he had one lord for his master of
+          household, one for his cup bearer, and one for his carver. His princess,
+          Elizabeth Douglas, was served by seventy-five gentlewomen, fifty-three of whom
+          were daughters of noblemen, and they were attended in all their excursions by a
+          retinue of two hundred gentlemen.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These very woods and streams, which now hear nothing but the
+          murmurs of the Esk, were all alive with the bustle of a court in those
+          days.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The castle was now distinctly visible; it stands on an insulated
+          rock, two hundred and twenty yards from the chapel. It has under it a set of
+          excavations and caverns almost equally curious with those of Hawthornden; there
+          are still some tolerably preserved rooms in it, and Mrs. W. informed me that
+          they had once rented these rooms for a summer residence. What a delightful
+          idea! The barons of Roslin were all buried under this Chapel, in their armor,
+          as Scott describes in the poem. And as this family were altogether more than
+          common folks, it is perfectly credible that on the death of one of them a
+          miraculous light should illuminate the castle, chapel, and whole
+          neighborhood.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It appears, by certain ancient documents, that this high and
+          mighty house of St. Clair were in a particular manner patrons of the masonic
+          craft. It is known that the trade of masonry was then in the hands of a secret
+          and mysterious order, from whom probably our modern masons have descended.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The St. Clair family, it appears, were at the head of this
+          order, with power to appoint officers and places of meeting, to punish
+          transgressors, and otherwise to have the superintendence of all their affairs.
+          This fact may account for such a perfect Geyser of architectural ingenuity as
+          has been poured out upon their family chapel, which was designed for a
+          <em>chef-d'oeuvre</em>, a concentration of the best that could be done to the
+          honor of their patron's family. The documents which authenticate this statement
+          are described in Billings's Baronial Antiquities. So much for "the lordly line
+          of high St. Clair."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When we came back to the house, and after taking coffee in the
+          drawing room, Miss S. took me over the interior, a most delightful place, full
+          of all sorts of out-of-the-way snuggeries, and comfortable corners, and poetic
+          irregularities. There she showed me a picture of one of the early ancestors of
+          the family, the poet Drummond, hanging in a room, which tradition has assigned
+          to him. It represents a man with a dark, Spanish-looking face, with the broad
+          Elizabethan ruff, earnest, melancholy eyes, and an air half cavalier, half
+          poet, bringing to mind the chivalrous, graceful, fastidious bard, accomplished
+          scholar, and courtier of his time, the devout believer in the divine right of
+          kings, and of the immunities and privileges of the upper class generally. This
+          Drummond, it seems, was early engaged to a fair young lady, whose death
+          rendered his beautiful retreat of Hawthornden insupportable to him, and of
+          course, like other persons of romance, he sought refuge in foreign travel, went
+          abroad, and remained eight years. Afterwards he came back, married, and lived
+          here for some time.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Among other traditions of the place, it is said that Ben Jonson
+          once walked all the way from London to visit the poet in this retreat; and a
+          tree is still shown on the grounds under which they are said to have met. It
+          seems that Ben's habits were rather too noisy and convivial to meet altogether
+          the taste of his fastidious and aristocratic host; and so he had his own
+          thoughts of him, which, being written down in a diary, were published by some
+          indiscreet executor, after they were both dead.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were shown an old, original edition of the poems. I must
+          confess I never read them. Since I have seen the material the poet and novelist
+          has on this ground, all I wonder at is, that there have not been a thousand
+          poets to one. I should have thought they would have been as plenty as the mavis
+          and merle, and sprouting out every where, like the primroses and heather
+          bells.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our American literature is unfortunate in this
+          respect&mdash;that our nation never had any childhood, our day never had any
+          dawn; so we have very little traditionary lore to work over.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We came home about five o'clock, and had some company in the
+          evening. Some time to-day I had a little chat with Mrs. W. on the Quakers. She
+          is a cultivated and thoughtful woman, and seemed to take quite impartial views,
+          and did not consider her own sect as by any means the only form of
+          Christianity, but maintained&mdash;what every sensible person must grant, I
+          think&mdash;that it has had an important mission in society, even in its
+          peculiarities. I inferred from her conversation that the system of plain dress,
+          maintained with the nicety which they always use, is by no means a saving in a
+          pecuniary point of view. She stated that one young friend, who had been brought
+          up in this persuasion, gave it as her reason for not adopting its peculiar
+          dress, that she could not afford it; that is to say, that for a given sum of
+          money she could make a more creditable appearance were she allowed the range of
+          form, shape, and trimming, which the ordinary style of dressing permits.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I think almost any lady, who knows the magical value of bits of
+          trimming, and bows of ribbon judiciously adjusted in critical locations, of
+          inserting, edging, and embroidery, considered as economic arts, must
+          acknowledge that there is some force in the young lady's opinion. Nevertheless
+          the Doric simplicity of a Quaker lady's dress, who is in circumstances to
+          choose her material, has a peculiar charm. As at present advised, the Quaker
+          ladies whom I have seen very judiciously adhere to the spirit of plain attire,
+          without troubling themselves to maintain the exact letter. For instance, a
+          plain straw cottage, with its white satin ribbon, is sometimes allowed to take
+          the place of the close silk bonnet of Fox's day.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">For my part, while I reverence the pious and unworldly spirit
+          which dictated the peculiar forms of the Quaker sect, I look for a higher
+          development of religion still, when all the beautiful artistic faculties of the
+          soul being wholly sanctified and offered up to God, we shall no longer shun
+          beauty in any of its forms, either in dress or household adornment, as a
+          temptation, but rather offer it up as a sacrifice to Him who has set us the
+          example, by making every thing beautiful in its season.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to art and letters, I find many of my Quaker friends
+          sympathizing in those judicious views which were taken by the society of
+          Friends in Philadelphia, when Benjamin West developed a talent for painting,
+          regarding such talent as an indication of the will of Him who had bestowed it.
+          So I find many of them taking pleasure in the poetry of Scott, Longfellow, and
+          Whittier, as developments of his wisdom who gives to the human soul its
+          different faculties and inspirations.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">More delightful society than a cultivated Quaker family cannot
+          be found: the truthfulness, genuineness, and simplicity of character, albeit
+          not wanting, at proper times, a shrewd dash of worldly wisdom, are very
+          refreshing.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mrs. W. and I went to the studio of Hervey, the Scotch artist.
+          Both he and his wife received us with great kindness. I saw there his
+          Covenanters celebrating the Lord's Supper&mdash;a picture which I could not
+          look at critically on account of the tears which kept blinding my eyes. It
+          represents a bleak hollow of a mountain side, where a few trembling old men and
+          women, a few young girls and children, with one or two young men, are grouped
+          together, in that moment of hushed prayerful repose which precedes the breaking
+          of the sacramental bread. There is something touching always about that worn,
+          weary look of rest and comfort with which a sick child lies down on a mother's
+          bosom, and like this is the expression with which these hunted fugitives nestle
+          themselves beneath the shadow of their Redeemer; mothers who had seen their
+          sons "tortured, not accepting deliverance"&mdash;wives who had seen the blood
+          of their husbands poured out on their doorstone&mdash;children with no father
+          but God&mdash;and bereaved old men, from whom, every child had been
+          rent&mdash;all gathering for comfort round the cross of a suffering Lord. In
+          such hours they found strength to suffer, and to say to every allurement of
+          worldly sense and pleasure as the drowning Margaret Wilson said to the tempters
+          in her hour of martyrdom, "I am <em>Christ's child</em>&mdash;let me go."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Another most touching picture of Hervey's commemorates a later
+          scene of Scottish devotion and martyr endurance scarcely below that of the days
+          of the Covenant. It is called Leaving the Manse.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We in America all felt to our heart's core a sympathy with that
+          high endurance which led so many Scottish ministers to forsake their churches,
+          their salaries, the happy homes where their children were born and their days
+          passed, rather than violate a principle.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This picture is a monument of this struggle. There rises the
+          manse overgrown with its flowering vines, the image of a lovely, peaceful home.
+          The minister's wife, a pale, lovely creature, is just locking the door, out of
+          which her husband and family have passed&mdash;leaving it forever. The husband
+          and father is supporting on his arm an aged, feeble mother, and the weeping
+          children are gathering sorrowfully round him, each bearing away some memorial
+          of their home; one has the bird cage. But the unequalled look of high, unshaken
+          patience, of heroic faith, and love which seems to spread its light over every
+          face, is what I cannot paint. The painter told me that the faces were
+          <em>portraits</em>, and the scene by no means imaginary.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">But did not these sacrifices bring with them, even in their
+          bitterness, a joy the world knoweth not? Yes, they did. I know it full well,
+          not vainly did Christ say, There is no man that hath left houses or lands for
+          my sake and the gospel's but he shall receive manifold more <em>in this
+          life</em>.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. Hervey kindly gave me the engraving of his Covenanters'
+          Sacrament, which I shall keep as a memento of him and of Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">His style of painting is forcible and individual. He showed us
+          the studies that he has taken with his palette and brushes out on the mountains
+          and moors of Scotland, painting moss, and stone, and brook, just as it is. This
+          is the way to be a national painter.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One pleasant evening, not long before we left Edinburgh, C., S.,
+          and I walked out for a quiet stroll. We went through the Grass Market, where so
+          many defenders of the Covenant have suffered, and turned into the churchyard of
+          the Gray Friars; a gray, old Gothic building, with multitudes of graves around
+          it. Here we saw the tombs of Allan Ramsay and many other distinguished
+          characters. The grim, uncouth sculpture on the old graves, and the quaint
+          epitaphs, interested me much; but I was most moved by coming quite unexpectedly
+          on an ivy-grown slab, in the wall, commemorating the martyrs of the Covenant.
+          The inscription struck me so much, that I got C&mdash;&mdash; to copy it in his
+          memorandum book.</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Halt, passenger! take heed what you do see.</p>
+            <p class="l">Here lies interred the dust of those who stood</p>
+            <p class="l">'Gainst perjury, resisting unto blood,</p>
+            <p class="l">Adhering to the Covenant, and laws</p>
+            <p class="l">Establishing the same; which was the cause</p>
+            <p class="l">Their lives were sacrificed unto the last</p>
+            <p class="l">Of prelatists abjured, though here their dust</p>
+            <p class="l">Lies mixed with murderers and other crew</p>
+            <p class="l">Whom justice justly did to death pursue;</p>
+            <p class="l">But as for them, no cause was to be found</p>
+            <p class="l">Worthy of death, but only they were found</p>
+            <p class="l">Constant and steadfast, witnessing</p>
+            <p class="l">For the prerogatives of Christ their King;</p>
+            <p class="l">Which truths were sealed, by famous Guthrie's head,</p>
+            <p class="l">And all along to Mr. Renwick's blood</p>
+            <p class="l">They did endure the wrath of enemies,</p>
+            <p class="l">Reproaches, torments, deaths, and injuries;</p>
+            <p class="l">But yet they're those who from such troubles came</p>
+            <p class="l">And triumph now in glory with the Lamb.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="display">
+            "From May 27, 1681, when the Marquis of Argyle was beheaded, to February 17,
+            1688, when James Renwick suffered, there were some eighteen thousand one way
+            or other murdered, of whom were executed at Edinburgh about one hundred
+            noblemen, ministers, and gentlemen, and others, noble martyrs for Christ."
+          </div>
+          <p class="dgp">Despite the roughness of the verse, there is a thrilling power
+          in these lines. People in gilded houses, on silken couches, at ease among
+          books, and friends, and literary pastimes, may sneer at the Covenanters; it is
+          much easier to sneer than to die for truth and right, as they died. Whether
+          they were right in all respects is nothing to the purpose; but it is to the
+          purpose that in a crisis of their country's history they upheld a great
+          principle vital to her existence. Had not these men held up the heart of
+          Scotland, and kept alive the fire of liberty on her altars, the very literature
+          which has been used to defame them could not have had its existence. The very
+          literary celebrity of Scotland has grown out of their grave; for a vigorous and
+          original literature is impossible, except to a strong, free, self-respecting
+          people. The literature of a people must spring from the sense of its
+          nationality; and nationality is impossible without self-respect, and
+          self-respect is impossible without liberty.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is one of the trials of our mortal state, one of the
+          disciplines of our virtue, that the world's benefactors and reformers are so
+          often without form or comeliness. The very force necessary to sustain the
+          conflict makes them appear unlovely; they "tread the wine press alone, and of
+          the people there is none with them." The shrieks, and groans, and agonies of
+          men wrestling in mortal combat are often not graceful or gracious; but the
+          comments that the children of the Puritans, and the children of the
+          Covenanters, make on the ungraceful and severe elements which marked the
+          struggles of their great fathers, are as ill-timed as if a son, whom a mother
+          had just borne from a burning dwelling, should criticize the shrieks with which
+          she sought him, and point out to ridicule the dishevelled hair and singed
+          garments which show how she struggled for his life. But these are they which
+          are "sown in weakness, but raised in power; which are sown in dishonor, but
+          raised in glory:" even in this world they will have their judgment day, and
+          their names which went down in the dust like a gallant banner trodden in the
+          mire, shall rise again all glorious in the sight of nations.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The evening sky, glowing red, threw out the bold outline of the
+          castle, and the quaint old edifices as they seemed to look down on us silently
+          from their rocky heights, and the figure of Salisbury Crags marked itself
+          against the red sky like a couchant lion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The time of our sojourn in Scotland had drawn towards its close.
+          Though feeble in health, this visit to me has been full of enjoyment; full of
+          lofty, but sad memories; full of sympathies and inspirations. I think there is
+          no nobler land, and I pray God that the old seed here sown in blood and tears
+          may never be rooted out of Scotland.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_27" name="toc_27"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter X</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          H.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was a rainy, misty morning when I left my kind retreat and
+          friends in Edinburgh. Considerate as every body had been about imposing on my
+          time or strength, still you may well believe that I was much exhausted.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We left Edinburgh, therefore, with the determination to plunge
+          at once into some hidden and unknown spot, where we might spend two or three
+          days quietly by ourselves; and remembering your Sunday at Stratford-on-Avon, I
+          proposed that we should go there. As Stratford, however, is off the railroad
+          line we determined to accept the invitation, which was lying by us, from our
+          friend Joseph Sturge, of Birmingham, and take sanctuary with him. So we wrote
+          on, intrusting him with the secret, and charging him on no account to let any
+          one know of our arrival.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Well in the rail car, we went whirling along by Preston Pans,
+          where was fought the celebrated battle in which Colonel Gardiner was killed; by
+          Dunbar, where Cromwell told his army to "trust in God and keep their powder
+          dry;" through Berwick-on-the-Tweed and Newcastle-on-Tyne; by the old towers and
+          gates of York, with its splendid cathedral; getting a view of Durham Cathedral
+          in the distance.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The country between Berwick and Newcastle is one of the greatest
+          manufacturing districts of England, and for smoke, smut, and gloom, Pittsburg
+          and Wheeling bear no comparison to it. The English sky, always paler and cooler
+          in its tints than ours, here seems to be turned into a leaden canopy; tall
+          chimneys belch forth gloom and confusion; houses, factories, fences, even trees
+          and grass, look grim and sooty.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is true that people with immense wealth can live in such
+          regions in cleanliness and elegance; but how must it be with the poor? I know
+          of no one circumstance more unfavorable to moral purity than the necessity of
+          being physically dirty. Our nature is so intensely symbolical, that where the
+          outward sign of defilement becomes habitual, the inner is too apt to
+          correspond. I am quite sure that before there can be a universal millennium,
+          trade must be pursued in such a way as to enable the working classes to realize
+          something of beauty and purity in the circumstances of their outward life.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I have heard there is a law before the British Parliament, whose
+          operation is designed to purify the air of England by introducing chimneys
+          which shall consume all the sooty particles which now float about, obscuring
+          the air and carrying defilement with them. May that day be hastened!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At Newcastle-on-Tyne and some other places various friends came
+          out to meet us, some of whom presented us with most splendid bouquets of
+          hothouse flowers. This region has been the seat of some of the most zealous and
+          efficient antislavery operations in England.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">About night our cars whizzed into the depot at Birmingham; but
+          just before we came in a difficulty was started in the company. "Mr. Sturge is
+          to be there waiting for us, but he does not know us, and we don't know him;
+          what is to be done?" C&mdash;&mdash; insisted that he should know him by
+          instinct; and so after we reached the depot, we told him to sally out and try.
+          Sure enough, in a few moments he pitched upon a cheerful, middle-aged
+          gentleman, with a moderate but not decisive broad brim to his hat, and
+          challenged him as Mr. Sturge; the result verified the truth that "instinct is a
+          great matter." In a few moments our new friend and ourselves were snugly
+          encased in a fly, trotting off as briskly as ever we could to his place at
+          Edgbaston, nobody a whit the wiser. You do not know how snug we felt to think
+          we had done it so nicely.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The carriage soon drove in upon a gravel walk, winding among
+          turf, flowers, and shrubs, where we found opening to us another home as warm
+          and kindly as the one we had just left, made doubly interesting by the idea of
+          entire privacy and seclusion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After retiring to our chambers to repair the ravages of travel,
+          we united in the pleasant supper room, where the table was laid before a bright
+          coal fire: no unimportant feature this fire, I can assure you, in a raw cloudy
+          evening. A glass door from the supper room opened into a conservatory,
+          brilliant with pink and yellow azalias, golden calceolarias, and a profusion of
+          other beauties, whose names I did not know.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The side tables were strewn with books, and the ample folds of
+          the drab curtains, let down over the windows, shut out the rain, damp, and
+          chill. When we were gathered round the table, Mr. Sturge said that he had
+          somewhat expected Elihu Burritt that evening, and we all hoped he would come. I
+          must not omit to say, that the evening circle was made more attractive and
+          agreeable in my eyes by the presence of two or three of the little people, who
+          were blessed with the rosy cheek of English children.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. Sturge is one of the most prominent and efficient of the
+          philanthropists of modern days. An air of benignity and easy good nature veils
+          and conceals in him the most unflinching perseverance and energy of purpose. He
+          has for many years been a zealous advocate of the antislavery cause in England,
+          taking up efficiently the work begun by Clarkson and Wilberforce. He, with a
+          friend of the same denomination, made a journey at their own expense, to
+          investigate the workings of the apprentice system, by which the act of
+          immediate emancipation in the West Indies was for a while delayed. After his
+          return he sustained a rigorous examination of seven days before a committee of
+          the House of Commons, the result of which successfully demonstrated the abuses
+          of that system, and its entire inutility for preparing either masters or
+          servants for final emancipation. This evidence went as far as any thing to
+          induce Parliament to declare immediate and entire emancipation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. Sturge also has been equally zealous and engaged in
+          movements for the ignorant and perishing classes at home. At his own expense he
+          has sustained a private Farm School for the reformation of juvenile offenders,
+          and it has sometimes been found that boys, whom no severity and no punishment
+          seemed to affect, have been entirely melted and subdued by the gentler measures
+          here employed. He has also taken a very ardent and decided part in efforts for
+          the extension of the principles of peace, being a warm friend and supporter of
+          Elihu Burritt.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next morning it was agreed that we should take our drive to
+          Stratford-on-Avon. As yet this shrine of pilgrims stands a little aloof from
+          the bustle of modern progress, and railroad cars do not run whistling and
+          whisking with brisk officiousness by the old church and the fanciful banks of
+          the Avon.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The country that we were to pass over was more peculiarly old
+          English; that phase of old English which is destined soon to pass away, under
+          the restless regenerating force of modern progress.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our ride along was a singular commixture of an upper and under
+          current of thought. Deep down in our hearts we were going back to English days;
+          the cumbrous, quaint, queer, old, picturesque times; the dim, haunted times
+          between cock-crowing and morning; those hours of national childhood, when
+          popular ideas had the confiding credulity, the poetic vivacity, and versatile
+          life, which distinguish children from grown people.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">No one can fail to feel, in reading any of the plays of
+          Shakspeare, that he was born in an age of credulity and marvels, and that the
+          materials out of which his mind was woven were dyed in the grain, in the
+          haunted springs of tradition. It would have been as absolutely impossible for
+          even himself, had he been born in the daylight of this century, to have built
+          those quaint, Gothic structures of imagination, and tinted them with their
+          peculiar coloring of marvellousness and mystery, as for a modern artist to
+          originate and execute the weird designs of an ancient cathedral. Both Gothic
+          architecture and this perfection of Gothic poetry were the springing and
+          efflorescence of that age, impossible to grow again. They were the forest
+          primeval; other trees may spring in their room, trees as mighty and as fair,
+          but not such trees.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">So, as we rode along, our speculations and thoughts in the under
+          current were back in the old world of tradition. While, on the other hand, for
+          the upper current, we were keeping up a brisk conversation on the peace
+          question, on the abolition of slavery, on the possibility of ignoring
+          slave-grown produce, on Mr. Cobden and Mr. Bright, and, in fact, on all the
+          most wide-awake topics of the present day.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One little incident occurred upon the road. As we were passing
+          by a quaint old mansion, which stood back from the road, surrounded by a deep
+          court, Mr. S. said to me, "There is a friend here who would like to see thee,
+          if thou hast no objections," and went on to inform me that she was an aged
+          woman, who had taken a deep interest in the abolition of slavery since the time
+          of its first inception under Clarkson and Wilberforce, though now lying very
+          low on a sick bed. Of course we all expressed our willingness to stop, and the
+          carriage was soon driving up the gravelled walk towards the house. We were
+          ushered into a comfortable sitting room, which looked out on beautiful grounds,
+          where the velvet grass, tall, dark trees, and a certain quaint air of antiquity
+          in disposition and arrangement, gave me a singular kind of pleasure; the more
+          so, that it came to me like a dream; that the house and the people were unknown
+          to me, and the whole affair entirely unexpected.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I was soon shown into a neat chamber, where an aged woman was
+          lying in bed. I was very much struck and impressed by her manner of receiving
+          me. With deep emotion and tears, she spoke of the solemnity and sacredness of
+          the cause which had for years lain near her heart. There seemed to be something
+          almost prophetic in the solemn strain of assurance with which she spoke of the
+          final extinction of slavery throughout the world.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I felt both pleased and sorrowful. I felt sorrowful because I
+          knew, if all true Christians in America had the same feelings, that men, women,
+          and children, for whom Christ died, would no more be sold in my country on the
+          auction block.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There have been those in America who have felt and prayed thus
+          nobly and sincerely for the heathen in Burmah and Hindostan, and that sentiment
+          was a beautiful and an ennobling one; but, alas! the number has been few who
+          have felt and prayed for the heathenism, and shame of our own country; for the
+          heathenism which sells the very members of the body of Christ as
+          merchandise.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When we were again on the road, we were talking on the change of
+          times in England since railroads began; and Mr. S. gave an amusing description
+          of how the old lords used to travel in state, with their coaches and horses,
+          when they went up once a year on a solemn pilgrimage to London, with postilions
+          and outriders, and all the country gaping and wondering after them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I wonder," said one of us, "if Shakspeare were living, what he
+          would say to our times, and what he would think of all the questions that are
+          agitating the world now." That he did have thoughts whose roots ran far beyond
+          the depth of the age in which he lived, is plain enough from numberless
+          indications in his plays; but whether he would have taken any practical
+          interest in the world's movements is a fair question. The poetic mind is not
+          always the progressive one; it has, like moss and ivy, a need for something old
+          to cling to and germinate upon. The artistic temperament, too, is soft and
+          sensitive; so there are all these reasons for thinking that perhaps he would
+          have been for keeping out of the way of the heat and dust of modern progress.
+          It does not follow because a man has penetration to see an evil, he has energy
+          to reform it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Erasmus saw all that Luther saw just as clearly, but he said
+          that he had rather never have truth at all, than contend for it with the world
+          in such a tumult. However, on the other hand, England did, in Milton, have one
+          poet who girt himself up to the roughest and stormiest work of reformation; so
+          it is not quite certain, after all, that Shakspeare might not have been a
+          reformer in our times. One thing is quite certain, that he would have said very
+          shrewd things about all the matters that move the world now, as he certainly
+          did about all matters that he was cognizant of in his own day.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was a little before noon when we drove into Stratford, by
+          which time, with our usual fatality in visiting poetic shrines, the day had
+          melted off into a kind of drizzling mist, strongly suggestive of a downright
+          rain. It is a common trick these English days have; the weather here seems to
+          be possessed of a water spirit. This constant drizzle is good for ivies, and
+          hawthorns, and ladies' complexions, as whoever travels here will observe, but
+          it certainly is very bad for tourists.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This Stratford is a small town, of between three and four
+          thousand inhabitants, and has in it a good many quaint old houses, and is
+          characterized (so I thought) by an air of respectable, stand-still, and
+          meditative repose, which, I am afraid, will entirely give way before the
+          railroad demon, for I understand that it is soon to be connected by the Oxford,
+          Worcester, and Wolverhampton line with all parts of the kingdom. Just think of
+          that black little screeching imp rushing through these fields which have
+          inspired so many fancies; how every thing poetical will fly before it! Think of
+          such sweet snatches as these set to the tune of a railroad whistle:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Hark! hark! the lark at heaven's gate sings,</p>
+            <p class="l">And Phoebus 'gins to rise,</p>
+            <p class="l">His steeds to water at those springs</p>
+            <p class="l">On chaliced flowers that lies.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">And winking Mary-buds begin</p>
+            <p class="l">To ope their golden eyes,</p>
+            <p class="l">With everything that pretty bid</p>
+            <p class="l">My lady sweet to rise."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">And again:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Philomel with melody sing in our sweet lullaby,</p>
+            <p class="l">Lulla, lulla, lullaby.</p>
+            <p class="l">Never harm, nor spell, nor charm,</p>
+            <p class="l">Come our lovely lady nigh."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I suppose the meadows, with their "winking Mary-buds," will
+          be all cut up into building lots in the good times coming, and Philomel caught
+          and put in a cage to sing to tourists at threepence a head.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went to the White Lion, and soon had a little quiet parlor to
+          ourselves, neatly carpeted, with a sofa drawn up to the cheerful coal fire, a
+          good-toned piano, and in short every thing cheerful and comfortable.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At first we thought we were too tired to do any thing till after
+          dinner; we were going to take time to rest ourselves and proceed leisurely; so,
+          while the cloth was laying, C&mdash;&mdash; took possession of the piano, and I
+          of the sofa, till Mr. S. came in upon us, saying, "Why, Shakspeare's house is
+          right the next door here!" Upon that we got up, just to take a peep, and from
+          peeping we proceeded to looking, and finally put on our things and went over
+          <em>seriatim</em>. The house has recently been bought by a Shakspearian club,
+          who have taken upon themselves the restoration and preservation of the
+          premises.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Shakspeare's father, it seems, was a man of some position and
+          substance in his day, being high sheriff and justice of the peace for the
+          borough; and this house, therefore, I suppose, may be considered a specimen of
+          the respectable class of houses in the times of Queen Elizabeth. This cut is
+          taken from an old print, and is supposed to represent the original condition of
+          the house.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image21.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">We saw a good many old houses somewhat similar to this on the
+          road, particularly resembling it in this manner of plastering, which shows all
+          the timber on the outside. Parts of the house have been sold, altered, and used
+          for various purposes; a butcher's stall having been kept in a part of it, and a
+          tavern in another portion, being new-fronted with brick.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The object of this Shakspeare Club has been to repurchase all
+          these parts, and restore them as nearly as possible to their primeval
+          condition. The part of the house which is shown consists of a lower room, which
+          is floored with flat stones very much broken. It has a wide, old-fashioned
+          chimney on one side, and opens into a smaller room back of it. From thence you
+          go up a rude flight of stairs to a low-studded room, with rough-plastered
+          walls, where the poet was born.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image22.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">The prints of this room, which are generally sold, allow
+          themselves in considerable poetic license, representing it in fact as quite an
+          elegant apartment, whereas, though it is kept scrupulously neat and clean, the
+          air of it is ancient and rude. This is a somewhat flattered likeness. The
+          roughly-plastered walls are so covered with names that it seemed impossible to
+          add another. The name of almost every modern genius, names of kings, princes,
+          dukes, are shown here; and it is really curious to see by what devices some
+          very insignificant personages have endeavored to make their own names
+          conspicuous in the crowd. Generally speaking the inscription books and walls of
+          distinguished places tend to give great force to the Vulgate rendering of
+          Ecclesiastes i. 15, "The number of fools is infinite."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To add a name in a private, modest way to walls already so
+          crowded, is allowable; but to scrawl one's name, place of birth, and country,
+          half across a wall, covering scores of names under it, is an operation which
+          speaks for itself. No one would ever want to know more of a man than to see his
+          name there and thus.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Back of this room were some small bed rooms, and what interested
+          me much, a staircase leading up into a dark garret. I could not but fancy I saw
+          a bright-eyed, curly-headed boy creeping up those stairs, zealous to explore
+          the mysteries of that dark garret. There perhaps he saw the cat, with "eyne of
+          burning coal, crouching 'fore the mouse's hole." Doubtless in this old garret
+          were wonderful mysteries to him, curious stores of old cast-off goods and
+          furniture, and rats, and mice, and cobwebs. I fancied the indignation of some
+          belligerent grandmother or aunt, who finds Willie up there watching a mouse
+          hole, with the cat, and has him down straightway, grumbling that Mary did not
+          govern that child better.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We know nothing who this Mary was that was his mother; but one
+          sometimes wonders where in that coarse age, when queens and ladies talked
+          familiarly, as women would blush to talk now, and when the broad, coarse wit of
+          the Merry Wives of Windsor was gotten up to suit the taste of a virgin
+          queen,&mdash;one wonders, I say, when women were such and so, where he found
+          those models of lily-like purity, women so chaste in soul and pure in language
+          that they could not even bring their lips to utter a word of shame. Desdemona
+          cannot even bring herself to speak the coarse word with which her husband
+          taunts her; she cannot make herself believe that there are women in the world
+          who could stoop-to such grossness.<a href="#note_12"><span
+          class="footnoteref">12</span></a></p>
+          <p class="dgp">For my part I cannot believe that, in such an age, such deep
+          heart-knowledge of pure womanhood could have come otherwise than by the
+          impression on the child's soul of a mother's purity. I seem to have a vision of
+          one of those women whom the world knows not of, silent, deep-hearted, loving,
+          whom the coarser and more practically efficient jostle aside and underrate for
+          their want of interest in the noisy chitchat and commonplace of the day; but
+          who yet have a sacred power, like that of the spirit of peace, to brood with
+          dovelike wings over the childish heart, and quicken into life the struggling,
+          slumbering elements of a sensitive nature.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I cannot but think, in that beautiful scene, where he represents
+          Desdemona as amazed and struck dumb with the grossness and brutality of the
+          charges which had been thrown upon her, yet so dignified in the consciousness
+          of her own purity, so magnanimous in the power of disinterested, forgiving
+          love, that he was portraying no ideal excellence, but only reproducing, under
+          fictitious and supposititious circumstances, the patience, magnanimity, and
+          enduring love which had shone upon him in the household words and ways of his
+          mother.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It seemed to me that in that bare and lowly chamber I saw a
+          vision of a lovely face which was the first beauty that dawned on those
+          childish eyes, and heard that voice whose lullaby tuned his ear to an exquisite
+          sense of cadence and rhythm. I fancied that, while she thus serenely shone
+          upon, him like a benignant star, some rigorous grand-aunt took upon her the
+          practical part of his guidance, chased up his wanderings to the right and left,
+          scolded him for wanting to look out of the window because his little climbing
+          toes left their mark on the neat wall, or rigorously arrested him when his
+          curly head was seen bobbing off at the bottom of the street, following a bird,
+          or a dog, or a showman; intercepting him in some happy hour when he was aiming
+          to strike off on his own account to an adjoining field for "winking Mary-buds;"
+          made long sermons to him on the wickedness of muddying his clothes and wetting
+          his new shoes, (if he had any,) and told him that something dreadful would come
+          out of the graveyard and catch him if he was not a better boy, imagining that
+          if it were not for her bustling activity Willie would go straight to
+          destruction.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I seem, too, to have a kind of perception of Shakspeare's
+          father; a quiet, God-fearing, thoughtful man, given to the reading of good
+          books, avoiding quarrels with a most Christian-like fear, and with but small
+          talent, either in the way of speech making or money getting; a man who wore his
+          coat with an easy slouch, and who seldom knew where his money went to.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All these things I seemed to perceive as if a sort of vision had
+          radiated from the old walls; there seemed to be the rustling of garments and
+          the sound of voices in the deserted rooms; the pattering of feet on the
+          worm-eaten staircase; the light of still, shady summer afternoons, a hundred
+          years ago, seemed to fall through the casements and lie upon the floor. There
+          was an interest to every thing about the house, even to the quaint iron
+          fastenings about the windows; because those might have arrested that child's
+          attention, and been dwelt on in some dreamy hour of infant thought. The fires
+          that once burned in those old chimneys, the fleeting sparks, the curling smoke,
+          and glowing coals, all may have inspired their fancies. There is a strong tinge
+          of household coloring in many parts of Shakspeare, imagery that could only have
+          come from such habits of quiet, household contemplation. See, for example, this
+          description of the stillness of the house, after all are gone to bed at
+          night:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Now sleep yslaked hath the rout;</p>
+            <p class="l">No din but snores, the house about,</p>
+            <p class="l">Made louder by the o'er-fed breast</p>
+            <p class="l">Of this most pompous marriage feast.</p>
+            <p class="l">The cat, with, eyne of burning coal,</p>
+            <p class="l">Now crouches 'fore the mouse's hole;</p>
+            <p class="l">And, crickets sing at th' oven's mouth,</p>
+            <p class="l">As the blither for their drouth."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Also this description of the midnight capers of the fairies
+          about the house, from Midsummer Night's Dream:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="speaker">
+            PUCK.:
+          </div>
+          <div class="sp">
+            <p class="l">"Now the hungry lion roars,</p>
+            <p class="l">And the wolf behowls the moon;</p>
+            <p class="l">Whilst the heavy ploughman snores,</p>
+            <p class="l">All with, weary task fordone.</p>
+            <p class="l">Now the wasted brands do glow,</p>
+            <p class="l">Whilst the scritch-owl, scritching loud,</p>
+            <p class="l">Puts the wretch, that lies in woe,</p>
+            <p class="l">In remembrance of a shroud.</p>
+            <p class="l">Now it is the time of night,</p>
+            <p class="l">That the graves all gaping wide,</p>
+            <p class="l">Every one lets forth his sprite,</p>
+            <p class="l">In the churchway paths to glide:</p>
+            <p class="l">And we fairies that do run</p>
+            <p class="l">By the triple Hecate's team,</p>
+            <p class="l">From the presence of the sun,</p>
+            <p class="l">Following darkness like a dream,</p>
+            <p class="l">Now are frolic; not a mouse</p>
+            <p class="l">Shall disturb this hallowed house:</p>
+            <p class="l">I am sent with, broom, before,</p>
+            <p class="l">To sweep the dust behind the door.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="speaker">
+            OBE.:
+          </div>
+          <div class="sp">
+            <p class="l">Through this house give glimmering light,</p>
+            <p class="l">By the dead and drowsy fire:</p>
+            <p class="l">Every elf, and fairy sprite,</p>
+            <p class="l">Hop as light as bird, from brier;</p>
+            <p class="l">And this ditty after me</p>
+            <p class="l">Sing, and dance it trippingly."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">By the by, one cannot but be struck with the resemblance,
+          in the spirit and coloring of these lines, to those very similar ones in the
+          Penseroso of Milton:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Far from all resort of mirth,</p>
+            <p class="l">Save the cricket on the hearth,</p>
+            <p class="l">Or the bellman's drowsy charm,</p>
+            <p class="l">To bless the doors from nightly harm;</p>
+            <p class="l">While glowing embers, through the room,</p>
+            <p class="l">Teach light to counterfeit a gloom."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I have often noticed how much the first writings of Milton
+          resemble in their imagery and tone of coloring those of Shakspeare,
+          particularly in the phraseology and manner of describing flowers. I think, were
+          a certain number of passages from Lycidas and Comus interspersed with a certain
+          number from Midsummer Night's Dream, the imagery, tone of thought, and style of
+          coloring, would be found so nearly identical, that it would be difficult for
+          one not perfectly familiar to distinguish them. You may try it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">That Milton read and admired Shakspeare is evident from his
+          allusion to him in L'Allegro. It is evident, however, that Milton's taste had
+          been so formed by the Greek models, that he was not entirely aware of all that
+          was in Shakspeare; he speaks of him as a sweet, fanciful warbler, and it is
+          exactly in sweetness and fancifulness that he seems to have derived benefit
+          from him. In his earlier poems, Milton seems, like Shakspeare, to have let his
+          mind run freely, as a brook warbles over many-colored pebbles; whereas in his
+          great poem he built after models. Had he known as little Latin and Greek as
+          Shakspeare, the world, instead of seeing a well-arranged imitation of the
+          ancient epics from his pen, would have seen inaugurated a new order of
+          poetry.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">An unequalled artist, who should build after the model of a
+          Grecian temple, would doubtless produce a splendid and effective building,
+          because a certain originality always inheres in genius, even when copying; but
+          far greater were it to invent an entirely new style of architecture, as
+          different as the Gothic from the Grecian. This merit was Shakspeare's. He was a
+          superb Gothic poet; Milton, a magnificent imitator of old forms, which by his
+          genius were wrought almost into the energy of new productions.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I think Shakspeare is to Milton precisely what Gothic
+          architecture is to Grecian, or rather to the warmest, most vitalized
+          reproductions of the Grecian; there is in Milton a calm, severe majesty, a
+          graceful and polished inflorescence of ornament, that produces, as you look
+          upon it, a serene, long, strong ground-swell of admiration and approval. Yet
+          there is a cold unity of expression, that calls into exercise only the very
+          highest range of our faculties: there is none of that wreathed involution of
+          smiles and tears, of solemn earnestness and quaint conceits; those sudden
+          uprushings of grand and magnificent sentiment, like the flame-pointed arches of
+          cathedrals; those ranges of fancy, half goblin, half human; those complications
+          of dizzy magnificence with fairy lightness; those streamings of many-colored
+          light; those carvings wherein every natural object is faithfully reproduced,
+          yet combined into a kind of enchantment: the union of all these is in
+          Shakspeare, and not in Milton. Milton had one most glorious phase of humanity
+          in its perfection; Shakspeare had all united; from the "deep and dreadful"
+          sub-bass of the organ to the most aerial warbling of its highest key, not a
+          stop or pipe was wanting.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image23.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">But, in fine, at the end of all this we went back to our hotel
+          to dinner. After dinner we set out to see the church. Even Walter Scott has not
+          a more poetic monument than this church, standing as it does amid old,
+          embowering trees, on the beautiful banks of the Avon. A soft, still rain was
+          falling on the leaves of the linden trees, as we walked up the avenue to the
+          church. Even rainy though it was, I noticed that many little birds would
+          occasionally break out into song. In the event of such a phenomenon as a bright
+          day, I think there must be quite a jubilee of birds here, even as he sung who
+          lies below:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The ousel-cock, so black of hue,</p>
+            <p class="l">With orange-tawny bill,</p>
+            <p class="l">The throstle with his note so true,</p>
+            <p class="l">The wren with little quill;</p>
+            <p class="l">The finch, the sparrow, and the lark,</p>
+            <p class="l">The plain-song cuckoo gray."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The church has been carefully restored inside, so that it
+          is now in excellent preservation, and Shakspeare lies buried under a broad,
+          flat stone in the chancel. I had full often read, and knew by heart, the
+          inscription on this stone; but somehow, when I came and stood over it, and read
+          it, it affected me as if there were an emanation from the grave beneath. I have
+          often wondered at that inscription, that a mind so sensitive, that had thought
+          so much, and expressed thought with such startling power on all the mysteries
+          of death, the grave, and the future world, should have found nothing else to
+          inscribe on his own grave but this:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="display">
+            <p class="noindent">Good Friend for Iesus SAKE forbare</p>
+            <p class="dgp">To digg T-E Dust EncloAsed HERe</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Blese be T-E Man T/Y spares T-Es Stones</p>
+            <p class="dgp">And curst be He T/Y moves my Bones</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="dgp">It seems that the inscription has not been without its use, in
+          averting what the sensitive poet most dreaded; for it is recorded in one of the
+          books sold here, that some years ago, in digging a neighboring grave, a
+          careless sexton broke into the side of Shakspeare's tomb, and looking in saw
+          his bones, and could easily have carried away the skull had he not been
+          deterred by the imprecation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is a monument in the side of the wall, which has a bust of
+          Shakspeare upon it, said to be the most authentic likeness, and supposed to
+          have been taken by a cast from his face after death. This statement was made to
+          us by the guide who showed it, and he stated that Chantrey had come to that
+          conclusion by a minute examination of the face. He took us into a room, where
+          was an exact plaster cast of the bust, on which he pointed out various little
+          minutiae on which this idea was founded. The two sides of the face are not
+          alike; there is a falling in and depression of the muscles on one side which
+          does not exist on the other, such as probably would never have occurred in a
+          fancy bust, where the effort always is to render the two sides of the face as
+          much alike as possible. There is more fulness about the lower part of the face
+          than is consistent with the theory of an idealized bust, but is perfectly
+          consistent with the probabilities of the time of life at which he died, and
+          perhaps with the effects of the disease of which he died.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All this I set down as it was related to me by our guide; it had
+          a very plausible and probable sound, and I was bent on believing, which is a
+          great matter in faith of all kinds.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is something in favor of the supposition that this is an
+          authentic likeness, that it was erected in his own native town within seven
+          years of his death, among people, therefore, who must have preserved the
+          recollection of his personal appearance. After the manner of those times it was
+          originally painted, the hair and beard of an auburn color, the eyes hazel, and
+          the dress was represented as consisting of a scarlet doublet, over which was a
+          loose black gown without sleeves; all which looks like an attempt to preserve
+          an exact likeness. The inscription upon it, also, seemed to show that there
+          were some in the world by no means unaware of who and what he was.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Next to the tomb of Shakspeare in the chancel is buried his
+          favorite daughter, over whom somebody has placed the following quaint
+          inscription:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Witty above her sex, but that's not all,</p>
+            <p class="l">Wise to salvation was good Mistress Hall.</p>
+            <p class="l">Something of Shakspeare was in that, but this</p>
+            <p class="l">Wholly of him, with whom she is now in bliss;</p>
+            <p class="l">Then, passenger, hast ne'er a tear,</p>
+            <p class="l">To weep with her that wept with, all&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="l">That wept, yet set herself to cheer</p>
+            <p class="l">Them, up with comfort's cordial?</p>
+            <p class="l">Her lore shall live, her mercy spread,</p>
+            <p class="l">When thou hast ne'er a tear to shed."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">This good Mistress Hall, it appears, was Shakspeare's
+          favorite among his three children. His son, Hamet, died at twelve years of age.
+          His daughter Judith, as appears from some curious document still extant, could
+          not write her own name, but signed with her mark; so that the "wit" of the
+          family must have concentrated itself in Mistress Hall. To her, in his last
+          will, which is still extant, Shakspeare bequeathed an amount of houses, lands,
+          plate, jewels, and other valuables, sufficient to constitute quite a handsome
+          estate. It would appear, from this, that the poet deemed her not only "wise
+          unto salvation," but wise in her day and generation, thus intrusting her with
+          the bulk of his worldly goods.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">His wife, Ann Hathaway, is buried near by, under the same
+          pavement. From the slight notice taken of her in the poet's will, it would
+          appear that there was little love between them. He married her when he was but
+          eighteen; most likely she was a mere rustic beauty, entirely incapable either
+          of appreciating or adapting herself to that wide and wonderful mind in its full
+          development.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to Mistress Hall, though the estate was carefully entailed,
+          through her, to heirs male through all generations, it was not her good fortune
+          to become the mother of a long line, for she had only one daughter, who became
+          Lady Barnard, and in whom, dying childless, the family became extinct.
+          Shakspeare, like Scott, seems to have had the desire to perpetuate himself by
+          founding a family with an estate, and the coincidence in the result is
+          striking. Genius must be its own monument.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After we had explored the church we went out to walk about the
+          place. We crossed the beautiful bridge over the Avon, and thought how lovely
+          those fields and meadows would look, if they only had sunshine to set them out.
+          Then we went to the town hall, where we met the mayor, who had kindly called
+          and offered to show us the place.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It seems, in 1768, that Garrick set himself to work in good
+          earnest to do honor to Shakspeare's memory, by getting up a public
+          demonstration at Stratford; and the world, through the talents of this actor,
+          having become alive and enthusiastic, liberal subscriptions were made by the
+          nobility and gentry, the town hall was handsomely repaired and adorned, and a
+          statue of Shakspeare, presented by Garrick, was placed in a niche at one end.
+          Then all the chief men and mighty men of the nation came and testified their
+          reverence for the poet, by having a general jubilee. A great tent was spread on
+          the banks of the Avon, where they made speeches and drank wine, and wound up
+          all with a great dance in the town hall; and so the manes of Shakspeare were
+          appeased, and his position settled for all generations. The room in the town
+          hall is a very handsome one, and has pictures of Garrick, and the other
+          notables who figured on that occasion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After that we were taken to see New Place. "And what is New
+          Place?" you say; "the house where Shakspeare lived?" Not exactly; but a house
+          built where his house was. This drawing is taken from an old print, and is
+          supposed to represent the house as Shakspeare fitted it up.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image24.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went out into what was Shakspeare's garden, where we were
+          shown his mulberry&mdash;not the one that he planted though, but a veritable
+          mulberry planted on the same spot; and then we went back to our hotel very
+          tired, but having conscientiously performed every jot and tittle of the duty of
+          good pilgrims.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we sat, in the drizzly evening, over our comfortable tea
+          table, C&mdash;&mdash; ventured to intimate pretty decidedly that he considered
+          the whole thing a bore; whereat I thought I saw a sly twinkle around the eyes
+          and mouth of our most Christian and patient friend, Joseph Sturge. Mr. S.
+          laughingly told him that he thought it the greatest exercise of Christian
+          tolerance, that he should have trailed round in the mud with us all day in our
+          sightseeing, bearing with our unreasonable raptures. He smiled, and said,
+          quietly, "I must confess that I was a little pleased that our friend Harriet
+          was so zealous to see Shakspeare's house, when it wasn't his house, and so
+          earnest to get sprigs from his mulberry, when it wasn't his mulberry." We were
+          quite ready to allow the foolishness of the thing, and join the laugh at our
+          own expense.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to our bed rooms, you must know that all the apartments in
+          this house are named after different plays of Shakspeare, the name being
+          printed conspicuously over each door; so that the choosing of our rooms made us
+          a little sport.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"What rooms will you have, gentlemen?" says the pretty chamber
+          maid.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Rooms," said Mr. S.; "why, what are there to have?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Well, there's Richard III., and there's Hamlet," says the
+          girl.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"O, Hamlet, by all means," said I; "that was always my favorite.
+          Can't sleep in Richard III., we should have such bad dreams."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"For my part," said C&mdash;&mdash;, "I want All's well that
+          ends well."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I think," said the chamber maid, hesitating, "the bed in Hamlet
+          isn't large enough for two. Richard III. is a very nice room, sir."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In fact, it became evident that we were foreordained to Richard;
+          so we resolved to embrace the modern historical view of this subject, which
+          will before long turn him out a saint, and not be afraid of the muster roll of
+          ghosts which Shakspeare represented as infesting his apartment.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Well, for a wonder, the next morning arose a genuine sunny,
+          beautiful day. Let the fact be recorded that such things do sometimes occur
+          even in England. C&mdash;&mdash; was mollified, and began to recant his
+          ill-natured heresies of the night before, and went so far as to walk, out of
+          his own proper motion, to Ann Hathaway's Cottage before breakfast&mdash;he
+          being one of the brethren described by Longfellow,</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Who is gifted with most miraculous powers</p>
+            <p class="l">Of getting up at all sorts of hours;"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">and therefore he came in to breakfast table with that
+          serenity of virtuous composure which generally attends those who have been out
+          enjoying the beauties of nature while their neighbors have been ingloriously
+          dozing.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The walk, he said, was beautiful; the cottage damp, musty, and
+          fusty; and a supposititious old bedstead, of the age of Queen Elizabeth, which
+          had been obtruded upon his notice because it <em>might</em> have belonged to
+          Ann Hathaway's mother, received a special malediction. For my part, my
+          relic-hunting propensities were not in the slightest degree appeased, but
+          rather stimulated, by the investigations of the day before.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It seemed to me so singular that of such a man there should not
+          remain one accredited relic! Of Martin Luther, though he lived much earlier,
+          how many things remain! Of almost any distinguished character how much more is
+          known than of Shakspeare! There is not, so far as I can discover, an authentic
+          relic of any thing belonging to him. There are very few anecdotes of his
+          sayings or doings; no letters, no private memoranda, that should let us into
+          the secret of what he was personally who has in turns personated all minds. The
+          very perfection of his dramatic talent has become an impenetrable veil: we can
+          no more tell from his writings what were his predominant tastes and habits than
+          we can discriminate among the variety of melodies what are the native notes of
+          the mocking bird. The only means left us for forming an opinion of what he was
+          personally are inferences of the most delicate nature from, the slightest
+          premises.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The common idea which has pervaded the world, of a joyous,
+          roving, somewhat unsettled, and dissipated character, would seem, from many
+          well-authenticated facts, to be incorrect. The gayeties and dissipations of his
+          life seem to have been confined to his very earliest days, and to have been the
+          exuberance of a most extraordinary vitality, bursting into existence with such
+          force and vivacity that it had not had time to collect itself, and so come to
+          self-knowledge and control. By many accounts it would appear that the character
+          he sustained in the last years of his life was that of a judicious,
+          common-sense sort of man; a discreet, reputable, and religious householder.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The inscription on his tomb is worthy of remark, as indicating
+          the reputation he bore at the time: "<em>Judicio Pylium, genio Socratem, arte
+          Maronem</em>" (In judgment a Nestor, in genius a Socrates, in art a
+          Virgil.)</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The comparison of him in the first place to Nestor, proverbially
+          famous for practical judgment and virtue of life, next to Socrates, who was a
+          kind of Greek combination of Dr. Paley and Dr. Franklin, indicates a very
+          different impression of him from what would generally be expressed of a poet,
+          certainly what would not have been placed on the grave of an eccentric, erratic
+          will-o'-the-wisp genius, however distinguished. Moreover, the pious author of
+          good Mistress Hall's epitaph records the fact of her being "wise to salvation,"
+          as a more especial point of resemblance to her father than even her being
+          "witty above her sex," and expresses most confident hope of her being with him
+          in bliss. The Puritan tone of the epitaph, as well as the quality of the verse,
+          gives reason to suppose that it was not written by one who was seduced into a
+          tombstone lie by any superfluity of poetic sympathy.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The last will of Shakspeare, written by his own hand and still
+          preserved, shows several things of the man.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The introduction is as follows:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"In the name of God. Amen. I, William Shakspeare, at
+          Stratford-upon-Avon, in the county of Warwick, gentleman, in perfect health and
+          memory, (God be praised,) do make and ordain this my last will and testament in
+          manner and form following; that is to say,&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"First, I commend my soul into the hands of God my Creator,
+          hoping, and assuredly believing, through the only merits of Jesus Christ, my
+          Savior, to be made partaker of life everlasting; and my body to the earth,
+          whereof it is made."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The will then goes on to dispose of an amount of houses, lands,
+          plate, money, jewels, &amp;c., which showed certainly that the poet had
+          possessed some worldly skill and thrift in accumulation, and to divide them
+          with a care and accuracy which would indicate that he was by no means of that
+          dreamy and unpractical habit of mind which cares not what becomes of worldly
+          goods.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We may also infer something of a man's character from the tone
+          and sentiments of others towards him. Glass of a certain color casts on
+          surrounding objects a reflection of its own hue, and so the tint of a man's
+          character returns upon us in the habitual manner in which he is spoken of by
+          those around him. The common mode of speaking of Shakspeare always savored of
+          endearment. "Gentle Will" is an expression that seemed oftenest repeated. Ben
+          Jonson inscribed his funeral verses "To the Memory of <em>my beloved</em> Mr.
+          William Shakspeare;" he calls him the "sweet swan of Avon." Again, in his lines
+          under a bust of Shakspeare, he says,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The figure that thou seest put,</p>
+            <p class="l">It was for gentle Shakspeare cut."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">In later times Milton, who could have known him only by
+          tradition, calls him "my Shakspeare," "dear son of memory," and "sweetest
+          Shakspeare." Now, nobody ever wrote of sweet John Milton, or gentle John
+          Milton, or gentle Martin Luther, or even sweet Ben Jonson.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Rowe says of Shakspeare, "The latter part of his life was spent,
+          as all men of good sense would wish theirs may be, in ease, retirement, and the
+          conversation of his friends. His pleasurable wit and good nature engaged him in
+          the acquaintance, and entitled him to the friendship, of the gentlemen of the
+          neighborhood." And Dr. Drake says, "He was high in reputation as a poet,
+          favored by the great and the accomplished, and beloved by all who knew
+          him."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">That Shakspeare had religious principle, I infer not merely from
+          the indications of his will and tombstone, but from those strong evidences of
+          the working of the religious element which are scattered through his plays. No
+          man could have a clearer perception of God's authority and man's duty; no one
+          has expressed more forcibly the strength of God's government, the spirituality
+          of his requirements, or shown with more fearful power the struggles of the "law
+          in the members warring against the law of the mind."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These evidences, scattered through his plays, of deep religious
+          struggles, make probable the idea that, in the latter, thoughtful, and tranquil
+          years of his life, devotional impulses might have settled into habits, and that
+          the solemn language of his will, in which he professes his faith, in Christ,
+          was not a mere form. Probably he had all his life, even in his gayest hours,
+          more real religious principle than the hilarity of his manner would give reason
+          to suppose. I always fancy he was thinking of himself when he wrote this
+          character: "For the man doth fear God, howsoever it seem not in him by reason
+          of some large jests he doth make."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Neither is there any foundation for the impression that he was
+          undervalued in his own times. No literary man of his day had more success, more
+          flattering attentions from the great, or reaped more of the substantial fruits
+          of popularity, in the form of worldly goods. While his contemporary, Ben
+          Jonson, sick in a miserable alley, is forced to beg, and receives but a
+          wretched pittance from Charles I., Shakspeare's fortune steadily increases from
+          year to year. He buys the best place in his native town, and fits it up with
+          great taste; he offered to lend, on proper security, a sum of money for the use
+          of the town of Stratford; he added to his estate in Stratford a hundred and
+          seventy acres of land; he bought half the great and small tithes of Stratford;
+          and his annual income is estimated to have been what would at the present time
+          be nearly four thousand dollars.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Queen Elizabeth also patronized him after her ordinary fashion
+          of patronizing literary men,&mdash;that is to say, she expressed her gracious
+          pleasure that he should burn incense to her, and pay his own bills: economy was
+          not one of the least of the royal graces. The Earl of Southampton patronized
+          him in a more material fashion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Queen Elizabeth even so far condescended to the poet as to
+          perform certain hoidenish tricks while he was playing on the stage, to see if
+          she could not disconcert his speaking by the majesty of her royal presence. The
+          poet, who was performing the part of King Henry IV., took no notice of her
+          motions, till, in order to bring him to a crisis, she dropped her glove at his
+          feet; whereat he picked it up, and presented it her, improvising these two
+          lines, as if they had been a part of the play:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"And though, now bent on this high embassy,</p>
+            <p class="l">Yet stoop we to take up our cousin's glove."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I think this anecdote very characteristic of them both; it
+          seems to me it shows that the poet did not so absolutely crawl in the dust
+          before her, as did almost all the so called men of her court; though he did
+          certainly flatter her after a fashion in which few queens can be flattered. His
+          description of the belligerent old Gorgon as the "Fair Vestal throned by the
+          West" seems like the poetry and fancy of the beautiful Fairy Queen wasted upon
+          the half-brute clown:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Come, sit thee down upon this flowery bed,</p>
+            <p class="l">While I thy amiable cheeks do coy,</p>
+            <p class="l">And stick musk roses in thy sleek, smooth, head,</p>
+            <p class="l">And kiss thy fair, large ears, my gentle joy."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="dgp">Elizabeth's understanding and appreciation of Shakspeare was
+          much after the fashion of Nick Bottom's of the Fairy Queen. I cannot but
+          believe that the men of genius who employed their powers in celebrating this
+          most repulsive and disagreeable woman must sometimes have comforted themselves
+          by a good laugh in private.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In order to appreciate Shakspeare's mind from his plays, we must
+          discriminate what expressed the gross tastes of his age, and what he wrote to
+          please himself. The Merry Wives of Windsor was a specimen of what he wrote for
+          the "Fair Vestal;" a commentary on the delicacy of her maiden meditations. The
+          Midsummer Night's Dream he wrote from his own inner dream world.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the morning we took leave of our hotel. In leaving we were
+          much touched with the simple kindliness of the people of the house. The
+          landlady and her daughters came to bid us farewell, with much feeling; and the
+          former begged my acceptance of a bead purse, knit by one of her daughters, she
+          said, during the winter evenings while they were reading Uncle Tom. In this
+          town one finds the simple-hearted, kindly English people corresponding to the
+          same class which we see in our retired New England towns. We received many
+          marks of kindness from different residents in Stratford; in the expression of
+          them, they appreciated and entered into our desire for privacy with a delicacy
+          which touched us sensibly.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We had little time to look about us to see Stratford in the
+          sunshine. So we went over to a place on the banks of the Avon, where, it was
+          said, we could gain a very perfect view of the church. The remembrance of this
+          spot is to me like a very pleasant dream. The day was bright, the air was soft
+          and still, as we walked up and down the alleys of a beautiful garden that
+          extended quite to the church; the rooks were dreamily cawing, and wheeling in
+          dark, airy circles round the old buttresses and spire. A funeral train had come
+          into the graveyard, and the passing bell was tolling. A thousand undefined
+          emotions struggled in my mind.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">That loving heart, that active fancy, that subtile, elastic
+          power of appreciating and expressing all phases, all passions of humanity, are
+          they breathed out on the wind? are they spent like the lightning? are they
+          exhaled like the breath of flowers? or are they still living, still active? and
+          if so, where and how? Is it reserved for us, in that "undiscovered country"
+          which he spoke of, ever to meet the great souls whose breath has kindled our
+          souls?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I think we forget the consequences of our own belief in
+          immortality, and look on the ranks of prostrate dead as a mower on fields of
+          prostrate flowers, forgetting that activity is an essential of souls, and that
+          every soul which has passed away from this world must ever since have been
+          actively developing those habits of mind and modes of feeling which it began
+          here.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The haughty, cruel, selfish Elizabeth, and all the great men of
+          her court, are still living and acting somewhere; but where? For my part I am
+          often reminded, when dwelling on departed genius, of Luther's ejaculation for
+          his favorite classic poet: "I hope God will have mercy on such."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We speak of the glory of God as exhibited in natural landscape
+          making; what is it, compared with the glory of God as shown in the making of
+          souls, especially those souls which seem to be endowed with a creative power
+          like his own?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There seems, strictly speaking, to be only two classes of
+          souls&mdash;the creative and the receptive. Now, these creators seem to me to
+          have a beauty and a worth about them entirely independent of their moral
+          character. That ethereal power which shows itself in Greek sculpture and Gothic
+          architecture, in Rubens, Shakspeare, and Mozart, has a quality to me
+          inexpressibly admirable and lovable. We may say, it is true, that there is no
+          moral excellence in it; but none the less do we admire it. God has made us so
+          that we cannot help loving it; our souls go forth to it with an infinite
+          longing, nor can that longing be condemned. That mystic quality that exists in
+          these souls is a glimpse and intimation of what exists in Him in full
+          perfection. If we remember this we shall not lose ourselves in admiration of
+          worldly genius, but be led by it to a better understanding of what He is, of
+          whom all the glories of poetry and art are but symbols and shadows.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_28" name="toc_28"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XI</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear
+          H.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From Stratford we drove to Warwick, (or "Warrick," as they call
+          it here.) This town stands on a rocky hill on the banks of the Avon, and is
+          quite a considerable place, for it returns two members to Parliament, and has
+          upwards of ten thousand inhabitants; and also has some famous manufactories of
+          wool combing and spinning. But what we came to see was the castle. We drove up
+          to the Warwick Arms, which is the principal hotel in the place; and, finding
+          that we were within the hours appointed for exhibition, we went
+          immediately.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">With my head in a kind of historical mist, full of images of
+          York and Lancaster, and Red and White Roses, and Warwick the king maker, I
+          looked up to the towers and battlements of the old castle. We went in through a
+          passage way cut in solid rock, about twenty feet deep, and I should think fifty
+          long. These walls were entirely covered with ivy, hanging down like green
+          streamers; gentle and peaceable pennons these are, waving and whispering that
+          the old war times are gone.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At the end of this passage there is a drawbridge over what was
+          formerly the moat, but which is now grassed and planted with shrubbery. Up over
+          our heads we saw the great iron teeth of the portcullis. A rusty old giant it
+          seemed up there, like Pope and Pagan in Pilgrim's Progress, finding no scope
+          for himself in these peaceable times.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image25.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">When we came fairly into the court yard of the castle, a scene
+          of magnificent beauty opened before us. I cannot describe it minutely. The
+          principal features are the battlements, towers, and turrets of the old feudal
+          castle, encompassed by grounds on which has been expended all that princely art
+          of landscape gardening for which England is famous&mdash;leafy thickets,
+          magnificent trees, openings, and vistas of verdure, and wide sweeps of grass,
+          short, thick, and vividly green, as the velvet moss we sometimes see growing on
+          rocks in New England. Grass is an art and a science in England&mdash;it is an
+          institution. The pains that are taken in sowing, tending, cutting, clipping,
+          rolling, and otherwise nursing and coaxing it, being seconded by the misty
+          breath and often falling tears of the climate, produce results which must be
+          seen to be appreciated.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">So again of trees in England. Trees here are an order of
+          nobility; and they wear their crowns right kingly. A few years ago, when Miss
+          Sedgwick was in this country, while admiring some splendid trees in a
+          nobleman's park, a lady standing by said to her encouragingly, "O, well, I
+          suppose your trees in America will be grown up after a while!" Since that time
+          another style of thinking of America has come up, and the remark that I most
+          generally hear made is, "O, I suppose we cannot think of showing you any thing
+          in the way of trees, coming as you do from America!" Throwing out of account,
+          however, the gigantic growth of our western river bottoms, where I have seen
+          sycamore trunks twenty feet in diameter&mdash;leaving out of account, I say,
+          all this mammoth arboria, these English parks have trees as fine and as
+          effective, of their kind, as any of ours; and when I say their trees are an
+          order of nobility, I mean that they pay a reverence to them such as their
+          magnificence deserves. Such elms as adorn the streets of New Haven, or overarch
+          the meadows of Andover, would in England be considered as of a value which no
+          money could represent; no pains, no expense would be spared to preserve their
+          life and health; they would never be shot dead by having gas pipes laid under
+          them, as they have been in some of our New England towns; or suffered to be
+          devoured by canker worms for want of any amount of money spent in their
+          defence.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Some of the finest trees in this place are magnificent cedars of
+          Lebanon, which bring to mind the expression in Psalms, "Excellent as the
+          cedars." They are the very impersonation of kingly majesty, and are fitted to
+          grace the old feudal stronghold of Warwick the king maker. These trees,
+          standing as they do amid magnificent sweeps and undulations of lawn, throwing
+          out their mighty arms with such majestic breadth and freedom of outline, are
+          themselves a living, growing, historical epic. Their seed was brought from Holy
+          Land in the old days of the crusades; and a hundred legends might be made up of
+          the time, date, and occasion of their planting. These crusades have left their
+          mark every where through Europe, from the cross panel on the doors of common
+          houses to the oriental touches and arabesques of castles and cathedrals.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the reign of Stephen there was a certain Roger de Newburg,
+          second Earl of Warwick, who appears to have been an exceedingly active and
+          public-spirited character; and, besides conquering part of Wales, founded in
+          this neighborhood various priories and hospitals, among which was the house of
+          the Templars, and a hospital for lepers. He made several pilgrimages to Holy
+          Land; and so I think it as likely as most theories that he ought to have the
+          credit of these cedars.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These Earls of Warwick appear always to have been remarkably
+          stirring men in their day and generation, and foremost in whatever was going on
+          in the world, whether political or religious. To begin, there was Guy, Earl of
+          Warwick, who lived somewhere in the times of the old dispensation, before King
+          Arthur, and who distinguished himself, according to the fashion of those days,
+          by killing giants and various colored dragons, among which a green one
+          especially figures. It appears that he slew also a notable dun cow, of a kind
+          of mastodon breed, which prevailed in those early days, which was making great
+          havoc in the neighborhood. In later times, when the giants, dragons, and other
+          animals of that sort were somewhat brought under, we find the Earls of Warwick
+          equally busy burning and slaying to the right and left; now crusading into
+          Palestine, and now fighting the French, who were a standing resort for activity
+          when nothing else was to be done; with great versatility diversifying these
+          affairs with pilgrimages to the holy sepulchre, and founding monasteries and
+          hospitals. One stout earl, after going to Palestine and laying about him like a
+          very dragon for some years, brought home a live Saracen king to London, and had
+          him baptized and made a Christian of, <em>vi et armis</em>.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">During the scuffle of the Roses, it was a Warwick, of course,
+          who was uppermost. Stout old Richard, the king maker, set up first one party
+          and then the other, according to his own sovereign pleasure, and showed as much
+          talent at fighting on both sides, and keeping the country in an uproar, as the
+          modern politicians of America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When the times of the Long Parliament and the Commonwealth came,
+          an Earl of Warwick was high admiral of England, and fought valiantly for the
+          Commonwealth, using the navy on the popular side; and his grandson married the
+          youngest daughter of Oliver Cromwell. When the royal family was to be restored,
+          an Earl of Warwick was one of the six lords who were sent to Holland for
+          Charles II. The earls of this family have been no less distinguished for
+          movements which have favored the advance of civilization and letters than for
+          energy in the battle field. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth an Earl of Warwick
+          founded the History Lecture at Cambridge, and left a salary for the professor.
+          This same earl was general patron of letters and arts, assisting many men of
+          talents, and was a particular and intimate friend of Sir Philip Sidney.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">What more especially concerns us as New Englanders is, that an
+          earl of this house was the powerful patron and protector of New England during
+          the earlier years of our country. This was Robert Greville, the high admiral of
+          England before alluded to, and ever looked upon as a protector of the Puritans.
+          Frequent allusion is made to him in Winthrop's Journal as performing various
+          good offices for them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The first grant of Connecticut was made to this earl, and by him
+          assigned to Lord Say and Seal, and Lord Brooke. The patronage which this earl
+          extended to the Puritans is more remarkable because in principle he was
+          favorable to Episcopacy. It appears to have been prompted by a chivalrous sense
+          of justice; probably the same which influenced old Guy of Warwick in the King
+          Arthur times, of whom the ancient chronicler says, "This worshipful knight, in
+          his acts of warre, ever consydered what parties had wronge, and therto would he
+          drawe."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The present earl has never taken a share in public or political
+          life, but resided entirely on his estate, devoting himself to the improvement
+          of his ground and tenants. He received the estate much embarrassed, and the
+          condition of the tenantry was at that time quite depressed. By the devotion of
+          his life it has been rendered one of the most flourishing and prosperous
+          estates in this part of England. I have heard him spoken of as a very
+          exemplary, excellent man. He is now quite advanced, and has been for some time
+          in failing health. He sent our party a very kind and obliging message, desiring
+          that we would consider ourselves fully at liberty to visit any part of the
+          grounds or castle, there being always some reservation as to what tourists may
+          visit.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We caught glimpses of him once or twice, supported by
+          attendants, as he was taking the air in one of the walks of the grounds, and
+          afterwards wheeled about in a garden chair.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The family has thrice died out in the direct line, and been
+          obliged to resuscitate through collateral branches; but it seems the blood
+          holds good notwithstanding. As to honors there is scarcely a possible
+          distinction in the state or army that has not at one time or other been the
+          property of this family.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Under the shade of these lofty cedars they have sprung and
+          fallen, an hereditary line of princes. One cannot but feel, in looking on these
+          majestic trees, with the battlements, turrets, and towers of the old castle
+          every where surrounding him, and the magnificent parks and lawns opening
+          through dreamy vistas of trees into what seems immeasurable distance, the force
+          of the soliloquy which Shakspeare puts into the mouth of the dying old king
+          maker, as he lies breathing out his soul in the dust and blood of the battle
+          field:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Thus yields the cedar to the axe's edge,</p>
+            <p class="l">Whose arms gave shelter to the princely eagle,</p>
+            <p class="l">Under whose shade the rampant lion slept;</p>
+            <p class="l">Whose top branch overpeered Jove's spreading tree,</p>
+            <p class="l">And kept low shrubs from, winter's powerful wind.</p>
+            <p class="l">These eyes, that now are dimmed with death's black veil,</p>
+            <p class="l">Have been as piercing as the midday sun</p>
+            <p class="l">To search, the secret treasons of the world:</p>
+            <p class="l">The wrinkles in my brow, now filled with blood,</p>
+            <p class="l">Were likened oft to kingly sepulchres;</p>
+            <p class="l">For who lived king but I could dig his grave?</p>
+            <p class="l">And who durst smile when Warwick bent his brow?</p>
+            <p class="l">Lo, now my glory smeared in dust and blood!</p>
+            <p class="l">My parks, my walks, my manors that I had,</p>
+            <p class="l">Even now forsake me; and of all my lands</p>
+            <p class="l">Is nothing left me but my body's length!</p>
+            <p class="l">Why, what is pomp, rule, reign, but earth and dust?</p>
+            <p class="l">And live we how we can, yet die we must."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="dgp">During Shakspeare's life Warwick was in the possession of
+          Greville, the friend of Sir Philip Sidney, and patron of arts and letters. It
+          is not, therefore, improbable that Shakspeare might, in his times, often have
+          been admitted to wander through the magnificent grounds, and it is more than
+          probable that the sight of these majestic cedars might have suggested the noble
+          image in this soliloquy. It is only about eight miles from Stratford, within
+          the fair limits of a comfortable pedestrian excursion, and certainly could not
+          but have been an object of deep interest to such a mind as his.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I have described the grounds first, but, in fact, we did not
+          look at them first, but went into the house where we saw not only all the state
+          rooms, but, through the kindness of the noble proprietor, many of those which
+          are not commonly exhibited; a bewildering display of magnificent apartments,
+          pictures, gems, vases, arms and armor, antiques, all, in short, that the wealth
+          of a princely and powerful family had for centuries been accumulating.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image26.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">The great hall of the castle is sixty-two feet in length and
+          forty in breadth, ornamented with a richly carved Gothic roof, in which figures
+          largely the family cognizance of the bear and ragged staff. There is a
+          succession of shields, on which are emblazoned the quarterings of successive
+          Earls of Warwick. The sides of the wall are ornamented with lances, corselets,
+          shields, helmets, and complete suits of armor, regularly arranged as in an
+          armory. Here I learned what the buff coat is, which had so often puzzled me in
+          reading Scott's descriptions, as there were several hanging up here. It seemed
+          to be a loose doublet of chamois leather, which was worn under the armor, and
+          protected the body from its harshness.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here we saw the helmet of Cromwell, a most venerable relic.
+          Before the great, cavernous fireplace was piled up on a sled a quantity of yew
+          tree wood. The rude simplicity of thus arranging it on the polished floor of
+          this magnificent apartment struck me as quite singular. I suppose it is a
+          continuation of some ancient custom.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Opening from this apartment on either side are suits of rooms,
+          the whole series being three hundred and thirty-three feet in length. These
+          rooms are all hung with pictures, and studded with antiques and curiosities of
+          immense value. There is, first, the red drawing room, and then the cedar
+          drawing room, then the gilt drawing room, the state bed room, the boudoir,
+          &amp;c., &amp;c., hung with pictures by Vandyke, Rubens, Guido, Sir Joshua
+          Reynolds, Paul Veronese, any one of which would require days of study; of
+          course, the casual glance that one could give them in a rapid survey would not
+          amount to much.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were shown one table of gems and lapis lazuli, which cost
+          what would be reckoned a comfortable fortune in New England. For matters of
+          this kind I have little sympathy. The canvas, made vivid by the soul of an
+          inspired artist, tells me something of God's power in creating that soul; but a
+          table of gems is in no wise interesting to me, except so far as it is pretty in
+          itself.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I walked to one of the windows of these lordly apartments, and
+          while the company were examining buhl cabinets, and all other deliciousness of
+          the place, I looked down the old gray walls into the amber waters of the Avon,
+          which flows at their base, and thought that the most beautiful of all was
+          without. There is a tiny fall that crosses the river just above here, whose
+          waters turn the wheels of an old mossy mill, where for centuries the family
+          grain has been ground. The river winds away through the beautiful parks and
+          undulating foliage, its soft, grassy banks dotted here and there with sheep and
+          cattle, and you catch farewell gleams and glitters of it as it loses itself
+          among the trees.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Gray moss, wall flowers, ivy, and grass were growing here and
+          there out of crevices in the castle walls, as I looked down, sometimes trailing
+          their rippling tendrils in the river. This vegetative propensity of walls is
+          one of the chief graces of these old buildings.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the state bed room were a bed and furnishings of rich,
+          crimson velvet, once belonging to Queen Anne, and presented by George III. to
+          the Warwick family. The walls are hung with Brussels tapestry, representing the
+          gardens of Versailles as they were at the time. The chimney-piece, which is
+          sculptured of verde antique and white marble, supports two black marble vases
+          on its mantel. Over the mantel-piece is a full-length portrait of Queen Anne,
+          in a rich brocade dress, wearing the collar and jewels of the Garter, bearing
+          in one hand a sceptre, and in the other a globe. There are two splendid buhl
+          cabinets in the room, and a table of costly stone from Italy; it is mounted on
+          a richly carved and gilt stand.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The boudoir, which adjoins, is hung with pea-green satin and
+          velvet. In this room is one of the most authentic portraits of Henry VIII., by
+          Holbein, in which that selfish, brutal, unfeeling tyrant is veritably set
+          forth, with all the gold and gems which, in his day, blinded mankind; his fat,
+          white hands were beautifully painted. Men have found out Henry VIII. by this
+          time; he is a dead sinner, and nothing more is to be expected of him, and so he
+          gets a just award; but the disposition which bows down and worships any thing
+          of any character in our day which is splendid and successful, and excuses all
+          moral delinquencies, if they are only available, is not a whit better than that
+          which cringed before Henry.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the same room was a boar hunt, by Rubens, a disagreeable
+          subject, but wrought with wonderful power. There were several other pictures of
+          Holbein's in this room; one of Martin Luther.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We passed through a long corridor, whose sides were lined with
+          pictures, statues, busts, &amp;c. Out of the multitude, three particularly
+          interested me; one was a noble but melancholy bust of the Black Prince,
+          beautifully chiselled in white marble; another was a plaster cast, said to have
+          been taken of the face of Oliver Cromwell immediately after death. The face had
+          a homely strength amounting almost to coarseness. The evidences of its
+          genuineness appear in glancing at it; every thing is authentic, even to the
+          wart on his lip; no one would have imagined such a one, but the expression was
+          noble and peaceful, bringing to mind the oft-quoted words,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"After life's fitful fever, he sleeps well."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">At the end of the same corridor is a splendid picture of
+          Charles I. on horseback, by Vandyke, a most masterly performance, and appearing
+          in its position almost like a reality. Poor Charles had rather hard measure, it
+          always seemed to me. He simply did as all other princes had done before him;
+          that is to say, he lied steadily, invariably, and conscientiously, in every
+          instance where he thought he could gain any thing by it, just as Charles V.,
+          and Francis IV., and Catharine de Medicis, and Henry VIII., and Elizabeth, and
+          James, and all good royal folks had always done; and lo! <em>he</em> must lose
+          his head for it. His was altogether a more gentlemanly and respectable
+          performance than that of Henry, not wanting in a sort of ideal magnificence,
+          which his brutal predecessor, or even his shambling old father never dreamed
+          of. But so it is; it is not always on those who are sinners above all men that
+          the tower of Siloam falls, but only on those who happen to be under it when its
+          time comes. So I intend to cherish a little partiality for gentlemanly,
+          magnificent Charles I.; and certainly one could get no more splendid idea of
+          him than by seeing him stately, silent, and melancholy on his white horse, at
+          the end of this long corridor. There he sits, facing the calm, stony, sleeping
+          face of Oliver, and neither question or reply passes between them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From this corridor we went into the chapel, whose Gothic
+          windows, filled with rich, old painted glass, cast a many-colored light over
+          the oak-carved walls and altar-piece. The ceiling is of fine, old oak, wrought
+          with the arms of the family. The window over the altar is the gift of the Earl
+          of Essex. This room is devoted to the daily religious worship of the family. It
+          has been the custom of the present earl in former years to conduct the
+          devotions of the family here himself.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">About this time my head and eyes came to that point which
+          Solomon intimates to be not commonly arrived at by mortals&mdash;when the eye
+          is satisfied with seeing. I remember a confused ramble through apartment after
+          apartment, but not a single thing in them, except two pictures of Salvator
+          Rosa's, which I thought extremely ugly, and was told, as people always are when
+          they make such declarations, that the difficulty was entirely in myself, and
+          that if I would study them two or three months in faith, I should perceive
+          something very astonishing. This may be, but it holds equally good of the coals
+          of an evening fire, or the sparks on a chimney back; in either of which, by
+          resolute looking, and some imagination, one can see any thing he chooses. I
+          utterly distrust this process, by which old black pictures are looked into
+          shape; but then I have nothing to lose, being in the court of the Gentiles in
+          these matters, and obstinately determined not to believe in any real presence
+          in art which I cannot perceive by my senses.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After having examined all the upper stories, we went down into
+          the vaults underneath&mdash;vaults once grim and hoary, terrible to captives
+          and feudal enemies, now devoted to no purpose more grim than that of coal
+          cellars and wine vaults. In Oliver's time, a regiment was quartered there: they
+          are extensive enough, apparently, for an army.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The kitchen and its adjuncts are of magnificent dimensions, and
+          indicate an amplitude in the way of provision for good cheer worthy an ancient
+          house; and what struck me as a still better feature was a library of sound,
+          sensible, historical, and religious works for the servants.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went into the beer vaults, where a man drew beer into a long
+          black jack, such as Scott describes. It is a tankard, made of black leather, I
+          should think half a yard deep. He drew the beer from a large hogshead, and
+          offered us some in a glass. It looked very clear, but, on tasting, I found it
+          so exceedingly bitter that it struck me there would be small virtue for me in
+          abstinence.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In passing up to go out of the house, we met in the entry two
+          pleasant-looking young women, dressed in white muslin. As they passed us, a
+          door opened where a table was handsomely set out, at which quite a number of
+          well-dressed people were seating themselves. I withdrew my eyes immediately,
+          fearing lest I had violated some privacy. Our conductor said to us, "That is
+          the upper servants' dining room."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Once in the yard again, we went to see some of the older parts
+          of the building. The oldest of these, Caesar's Tower, which is said to go back
+          to the time of the Romans, is not now shown to visitors. Beneath it is a dark,
+          damp dungeon, where prisoners used to be confined, the walls of which are
+          traced all over with inscriptions and rude drawings.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then you are conducted to Guy's Tower, named, I suppose, after
+          the hero of the green dragon and dun cow. Here are five tiers of guard rooms,
+          and by the ascent of a hundred and thirty-three steps you reach the
+          battlements, where you gain a view of the whole court and grounds, as well as
+          of the beautiful surrounding landscape.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In coming down from this tower, we somehow or other got upon the
+          ramparts, which connect it with the great gate. We walked on the wall four
+          abreast, and played that we were knights and ladies of the olden time, walking
+          on the ramparts. And I picked a bough from an old pine tree that grew over our
+          heads; it much resembled our American yellow pitch pine.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then we went down and crossed the grounds to the greenhouse, to
+          see the famous Warwick vase. The greenhouse is built with a Gothic stone front,
+          situated on a fine point in the landscape. And there, on a pedestal, surrounded
+          by all manner of flowering shrubs, stands this celebrated antique. It is of
+          white marble, and was found at the bottom of a lake near Adrian's villa, in
+          Italy. They say that it holds a hundred and thirty-six gallons; constructed, I
+          suppose, in the roistering old drinking times of the Roman emperors, when men
+          seem to have discovered that the grand object for which they were sent into
+          existence was to perform the functions of wine skins. It is beautifully
+          sculptured with grape leaves, and the skin and claws of the panther&mdash;these
+          latter certainly not an inappropriate emblem of the god of wine, beautiful, but
+          dangerous.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Well, now it was all done. Merodach Baladan had not a more
+          perfect <em>expos&eacute;</em> of the riches of Hezekiah than we had of the
+          glories of Warwick. One always likes to see the most perfect thing of its kind;
+          and probably this is the most perfect specimen of the feudal ages yet remaining
+          in England.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As I stood with Joseph Sturge under the old cedars of Lebanon,
+          and watched the multitude of tourists, and parties of pleasure, who were
+          thronging the walks, I said to him, "After all, this establishment amounts to a
+          public museum and pleasure grounds for the use of the people." He assented.
+          "And," said I, "you English people like these things; you like these old
+          magnificent seats, kept up by old families." "That is what I tell them," said
+          Joseph Sturge. "I tell them there is no danger in enlarging the suffrage, for
+          the people would not break up these old establishments if they could." On that
+          point, of course, I had no means of forming an opinion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One cannot view an institution so unlike any thing we have in
+          our own country without having many reflections excited, for one of these
+          estates may justly be called an institution; it includes within itself all the
+          influence on a community of a great model farm, of model housekeeping, of a
+          general museum of historic remains, and of a gallery of fine arts.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is a fact that all these establishments through England are,
+          at certain fixed hours, thrown open for the inspection of whoever may choose to
+          visit them, with no other expense than the gratuity which custom requires to be
+          given to the servant who shows them. I noticed, as we passed from one part of
+          the ground to another, that our guides changed&mdash;one part apparently being
+          the perquisite of one servant, and one of another. Many of the servants who
+          showed them appeared to be superannuated men, who probably had this post as one
+          of the dignities and perquisites of their old age.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The influence of these estates on the community cannot but be in
+          many respects beneficial, and should go some way to qualify the prejudice with
+          which republicans are apt to contemplate any thing aristocratic; for although
+          the legal title to these things inheres in but one man, yet in a very important
+          sense they belong to the whole community, indeed, to universal humanity. It may
+          be very undesirable and unwise to wish to imitate these institutions in
+          America, and yet it may be illiberal to undervalue them as they stand in
+          England. A man would not build a house, in this nineteenth century, on the
+          pattern of a feudal castle; and yet where the feudal castle is built, surely
+          its antique grace might plead somewhat in its favor, and it may be better to
+          accommodate it to modern uses, than to level it, and erect a modern mansion in
+          its place.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Nor, since the world is wide, and now being rapidly united by
+          steam into one country, does the objection to these things, on account of the
+          room they take up, seem so great as formerly. In the million of square miles of
+          the globe there is room enough for all sorts of things.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">With such reflections the lover of the picturesque may comfort
+          himself, hoping that he is not sinning against the useful in his admiration of
+          the beautiful.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One great achievement of the millennium, I trust, will be in
+          uniting these two elements, which have ever been contending. There was great
+          significance in the old Greek fable which represented Venus as the
+          divinely-appointed helpmeet of Vulcan, and yet always quarrelling with him.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We can scarce look at the struggling, earth-bound condition of
+          useful labor through the world without joining in the beautiful aspiration of
+          our American poet,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Surely, the wiser time shall come</p>
+            <p class="l">When this fine overplus of might,</p>
+            <p class="l">No longer sullen, slow, and dumb,</p>
+            <p class="l">Shall leap to music and to light.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">In that new childhood of the world</p>
+            <p class="l">Life of itself shall dance and play,</p>
+            <p class="l">Fresh blood through Time's shrunk veins be hurled,</p>
+            <p class="l">And labor meet delight half way."<a href="#note_13"><span
+            class="footnoteref">13</span></a></p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">In the new state of society which we are trying to found in
+          America, it must be our effort to hasten the consummation. These great estates
+          of old countries may keep it for their share of the matter to work out perfect
+          models, while we will seize the ideas thus elaborated, and make them the
+          property of the million.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we were going out, we stopped a little while at the porter's
+          lodge to look at some relics.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now, I dare say that you have been thinking, all the while, that
+          these stories about the wonderful Guy are a sheer fabrication, or, to use a
+          convenient modern term, a myth. Know, then, that the identical armor belonging
+          to him is still preserved here; to wit, the sword, about seven feet long, a
+          shield, helmet, breastplate, and tilting pole, together with his porridge pot,
+          which holds one hundred and twenty gallons, and a large fork, as they call it,
+          about three feet long; I am inclined to think this must have been his
+          toothpick! His sword weighs twenty pounds.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is, moreover, a rib of the mastodon cow which he killed,
+          hung up for the terror of all refractory beasts of that name in modern
+          days.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Furthermore, know, then, that there are authentic documents in
+          the Ashmolean Museum, at Oxford, showing that the family run back to within
+          four years after the birth of Christ, so that there is abundance of time for
+          them to have done a little of almost every thing. It appears that they have
+          been always addicted to exploits, since we read of one of them, soon after the
+          Christian era, encountering a giant, who ran upon him with a tree which he had
+          snapped off for the purpose, for it seems giants were not nice in the choice of
+          weapons; but the chronicler says, "The Lord had grace with him, and overcame
+          the giant," and in commemoration of this event the family introduced into their
+          arms the ragged staff.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is recorded of another of the race, that he was one of seven
+          children born at a birth, and that all the rest of his brothers and sisters
+          were, by enchantment, turned into swans with gold collars. This remarkable case
+          occurred in the time of the grandfather of Sir Guy, and of course, if we
+          believe this, we shall find no difficulty in the case of the cow, or any thing
+          else.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is a very scarce book in the possession of a gentleman of
+          Warwick, written by one Dr. John Kay, or caius, in which he gives an account of
+          the rare and peculiar animals of England in 1552. In this he mentioned seeing
+          the bones of the head and the vertebrae of the neck of an enormous animal at
+          Warwick Castle. He states that the shoulder blade was hung up by chains from
+          the north gate of Coventry, and that a rib of the same animal was hanging up in
+          the chapel of Guy, Earl of Warwick, and that the people fancied it to be the
+          rib of a cow which haunted a ditch near Coventry, and did injury to many
+          persons; and he goes on to imagine that this may be the bone of a bonasus or a
+          urus. He says, "It is probable many animals of this kind formerly lived in our
+          England, being of old an island full of woods and forests, because even in our
+          boyhood the horns of these animals were in common use at the table." The story
+          of Sir Guy is furthermore quite romantic, and contains some circumstances very
+          instructive to all ladies. For the chronicler asserts, "that Dame Felye,
+          daughter and heire to Erle Rohand, for her beauty called Fely le Belle, or
+          Felys the Fayre, by true enheritance, was Countesse of Warwyke, and lady and
+          wyfe to the most victoriouse Knight, Sir Guy, to whom in his woing tyme she
+          made greate straungeres, and caused him, for her sake, to put himself in meny
+          greate distresses, dangers, and perills; but when they were wedded, and b'en
+          but a little season together, he departed from her, to her greate hevynes, and
+          never was conversant with her after, to her understandinge." That this may not
+          appear to be the result of any revengeful spirit on the part of Sir Guy, the
+          chronicler goes on further to state his motives&mdash;that, after his marriage,
+          considering what he had done for a woman's sake, he thought to spend the other
+          part of his life for God's sake, and so departed from his lady in pilgrim
+          weeds, which raiment he kept to his life's end. After wandering about a good
+          many years he settled in a hermitage, in a place not far from the castle,
+          called Guy's Cliff, and when his lady distributed food to beggars at the castle
+          gate, was in the habit of coming among them to receive alms, without making
+          himself known to her. It states, moreover, that two days before his death an
+          angel informed him of the time of his departure, and that his lady would die a
+          fortnight after him, which happening accordingly, they were both buried in the
+          grave together. A romantic cavern, at the place called Guy's Cliff, is shown as
+          the dwelling of the recluse. The story is a curious relic of the religious
+          ideas of the times.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On our way from the castle we passed by Guy's Cliff, which is at
+          present the seat of the Hon. C.B. Percy. The establishment looked beautifully
+          from the road, as we saw it up a long avenue of trees; it is one of the places
+          travellers generally examine, but as we were bound for Kenilworth we were
+          content to take it on trust. It is but a short drive from there to Kenilworth.
+          We got there about the middle of the afternoon. Kenilworth has been quite as
+          extensive as Warwick, though now entirely gone to ruins. I believe Oliver
+          Cromwell's army have the credit of finally dismantling it. Cromwell seems
+          literally to have left his mark on his generation, for I never saw a ruin in
+          England when I did not hear that he had something to do with it. Every broken
+          arch and ruined battlement seemed always to find a sufficient account of itself
+          by simply enunciating the word Cromwell. And when we see how much the Puritans
+          arrayed against themselves all the &aelig;sthetic principles of our nature, we
+          can somewhat pardon those who did not look deeper than the surface, for the
+          prejudice with which they regarded the whole movement; a movement, however, of
+          which we, and all which is most precious to us, are the lineal descendants and
+          heirs.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We wandered over the ruins, which are very extensive, and which
+          Scott, with his usual vivacity and accuracy, has restored and repeopled. We
+          climbed up into Amy Robsart's chamber; we scrambled into one of the arched
+          windows of what was formerly the great dining hall, where Elizabeth feasted in
+          the midst of her lords and ladies, and where every stone had rung to the sound
+          of merriment and revelry. The windows are broken out; it is roofless and
+          floorless, waving and rustling with pendent ivy, and vocal with the song of
+          hundreds of little birds.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We wandered from room to room, looking up and seeing in the
+          walls the desolate fireplaces, tier over tier, the places where the beams of
+          the floors had gone into the walls, and still the birds continued their singing
+          every where.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Nothing affected me more than this ceaseless singing and
+          rejoicing of birds in these old gray ruins. They seemed so perfectly joyous and
+          happy amid the desolations, so airy and fanciful in their bursts of song, so
+          ignorant and careless of the deep meaning of the gray desolation around them,
+          that I could not but be moved. It was nothing to them how these stately,
+          sculptured walls became lonely and ruinous, and all the weight of a thousand
+          thoughts and questionings which arise to us is never even dreamed by them. They
+          sow not, neither do they reap, but their heavenly Father feeds them; and so the
+          wilderness and the desolate place is glad in them, and they are glad in the
+          wilderness and desolate place.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was a beautiful conception, this making of birds. Shelley
+          calls them "imbodied joys;" and Christ says, that amid the vaster ruins of
+          man's desolation, ruins more dreadfully suggestive than those of sculptured
+          frieze and architrave, we can yet live a bird's life of unanxious joy; or, as
+          Martin Luther beautifully paraphrases it, "We can be like a bird, that sits
+          singing on his twig and lets God think for him."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The deep consciousness that we are ourselves ruined, and that
+          this world is a desolation more awful, and of more sublime material, and
+          wrought from stuff of higher temper than ever was sculptured in hall or
+          cathedral, this it must be that touches such deep springs of sympathy in the
+          presence of ruins. We, too, are desolate, shattered, and scathed; there are
+          traceries and columns of celestial workmanship; there are heaven-aspiring
+          arches, splendid colonnades and halls, but fragmentary all. Yet above us bends
+          an all-pitying Heaven, and spiritual voices and callings in our hearts, like
+          these little singing birds, speak of a time when almighty power shall take
+          pleasure in these stones, and favor the dust thereof.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We sat on the top of the strong tower, and looked off into the
+          country, and talked a good while. Some of the ivy that mantles this building
+          has a trunk as large as a man's body, and throws out numberless strong arms,
+          which, interweaving, embrace and interlace half-falling towers, and hold them
+          up in a living, growing mass of green.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The walls of one of the oldest towers are sixteen feet thick.
+          The lake, which Scott speaks of, is dried up and grown over with rushes. The
+          former moat presents only a grassy hollow. What was formerly a gate house is
+          still inhabited by the family who have the care of the building. The land
+          around the gate house is choicely and carefully laid out, and has high, clipped
+          hedges of a species of variegated holly.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Thus much of old castles and ivy. Farewell to Kenilworth.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image27.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_29" name="toc_29"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XII</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          H.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After leaving Kenilworth we drove to Coventry, where we took the
+          cars again. This whole ride from Stratford to Warwick, and on to Coventry,
+          answers more to my ideas of old England than any thing I have seen; it is
+          considered one of the most beautiful parts of the kingdom. It has quaint old
+          houses, and a certain air of rural, picturesque quiet, which is very
+          charming.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Coventry is old and queer, with narrow streets and curious
+          houses, famed for the ancient legend of Godiva, one of those beautiful myths
+          that grow, like the mistletoe, on the bare branches of history, and which, if
+          they never were true in the letter, have been a thousand times true in the
+          spirit.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The evening came on raw and chilly, so that we rejoiced to find
+          ourselves once more in the curtained parlor by the bright, sociable fire.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we were drinking tea Elihu Burritt came in. It was the first
+          time I had ever seen him, though I had heard a great deal of him from our
+          friends in Edinburgh. He is a man in middle life, tall and slender, with fair
+          complexion, blue eyes, an air of delicacy and refinement, and manners of great
+          gentleness. My ideas of the "Learned Blacksmith" had been of something
+          altogether more ponderous and peremptory. Elihu has been, for some years,
+          operating in England and on the continent in a movement which many, in our
+          half-Christianized times, regard with as much incredulity as the grim, old,
+          warlike barons did the suspicious imbecilities of reading and writing. The
+          sword now, as then, seems so much more direct a way to terminate controversies,
+          that many Christian men, even, cannot conceive how the world is to get along
+          without it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Burritt's mode of operation has been by the silent organization
+          of circles of ladies in all the different towns of the United Kingdom, who
+          raise a certain sum for the diffusion of the principles of peace on earth and
+          good will to men. Articles, setting forth the evils of war, moral, political,
+          and social, being prepared, these circles pay for their insertion in all the
+          principal newspapers of the continent. They have secured to themselves in this
+          way a continual utterance in France, Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, and
+          Germany; so that from week to week, and month to month, they can insert
+          articles upon these subjects. Many times the editors insert the articles as
+          editorial, which still further favors their design. In addition to this, the
+          ladies of these circles in England correspond with the ladies of similar
+          circles existing in other countries; and in this way there is a mutual
+          kindliness of feeling established through these countries.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When recently war was threatening between England and France,
+          through the influence of these societies conciliatory addresses were sent from
+          many of the principal towns of England to many of the principal towns of
+          France; and the effect of these measures in allaying irritation and agitation
+          was very perceptible.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Furthermore, these societies are preparing numerous little books
+          for children, in which the principles of peace, kindness, and mutual
+          forbearance are constantly set forth, and the evil and unchristian nature of
+          the mere collision of brute force exemplified in a thousand ways. These tracts
+          also are reprinted in the other modern languages of Europe, and are becoming a
+          part of family literature.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The object had in view by those in this movement is, the general
+          disbandment of standing armies and warlike establishments, and the arrangement,
+          in their place, of some settled system of national arbitration. They suggest
+          the organization of some tribunal of international law, which shall correspond
+          to the position of the Supreme Court of the United States with reference to the
+          several states. The fact that the several states of our Union, though each a
+          distinct sovereignty, yet agree in this arrangement, is held up as an instance
+          of its practicability. These ideas are not to be considered entirely
+          chimerical, if we reflect that commerce and trade are as essentially opposed to
+          war as is Christianity. War is the death of commerce, manufactures,
+          agriculture, and the fine arts. Its evil results are always certain and
+          definite, its good results scattered and accidental. The whole current of
+          modern society is as much against war as against slavery; and the time must
+          certainly come when some more rational and humane mode of resolving national
+          difficulties will prevail.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When we ask these reformers how people are to be freed from the
+          yoke of despotism without war, they answer, "By the diffusion of ideas among
+          the masses&mdash;by teaching the bayonets to think." They say, "If we convince
+          every individual soldier of a despot's army that war is ruinous, immoral, and
+          unchristian, we take the instrument out of the tyrant's hand. If each
+          individual man would refuse to rob and murder for the Emperor of Austria, and
+          the Emperor of Russia, where would be their power to hold Hungary? What gave
+          power to the masses in the French revolution, but that the army, pervaded by
+          new ideas, refused any longer to keep the people down?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These views are daily gaining strength in England. They are
+          supported by the whole body of the Quakers, who maintain them with that degree
+          of inflexible perseverance and never-dying activity which have rendered the
+          benevolent actions of that body so efficient. The object that they are aiming
+          at is one most certain to be accomplished, infallible as the prediction that
+          swords are to be beaten into ploughshares, and spears into pruning-hooks, and
+          that nations shall learn war no more.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This movement, small and despised in its origin, has gained
+          strength from year to year, and now has an effect on the public opinion of
+          England which is quite perceptible.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We spent the evening in talking over these things, and also
+          various topics relating to the antislavery movement. Mr. Sturge was very
+          confident that something more was to be done than had ever been done yet, by
+          combinations for the encouragement of free, in the place of slave-grown,
+          produce; a question which has, ever since the days of Clarkson, more or less
+          deeply occupied the minds of abolitionists in England.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I should say that Mr. Sturge in his family has for many years
+          conscientiously forborne the use of any article produced by slave labor. I
+          could scarcely believe it possible that there could be such an abundance and
+          variety of all that is comfortable and desirable in the various departments of
+          household living within these limits. Mr. Sturge presents the subject with very
+          great force, the more so from the consistency of his example.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From what I have since observed, as well as from what they said,
+          I should imagine that the Quakers generally pursue this course of entire
+          separation from all connection with slavery, even in the disuse of its
+          products. The subject of the disuse of slave-grown produce has obtained
+          currency in the same sphere in which Elihu Burritt operates, and has excited
+          the attention of the Olive Leaf Circles. Its prospects are not so weak as on
+          first view might be imagined, if we consider that Great Britain has large
+          tracts of cotton-growing land at her disposal in India. It has been calculated
+          that, were suitable railroads and arrangements for transportation provided for
+          India, cotton could be raised in that empire sufficient for the whole wants of
+          England, at a rate much cheaper than it can be imported from America. Not only
+          so, but they could then afford to furnish cotton cheaper at Lowell than the
+          same article could be procured from the Southern States.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is consolatory to know that a set of men have undertaken this
+          work whose perseverance in any thing once begun has never been daunted. Slave
+          labor is becoming every year more expensive in America. The wide market which
+          has been opened for it has raised it to such an extravagant price as makes the
+          stocking of a plantation almost ruinous. If England enters the race with free
+          labor, which has none of these expenses, and none of the risk, she will be sure
+          to succeed. All the forces of nature go with free labor; and all the forces of
+          nature resist slave labor. The stars in their courses fight against it; and it
+          cannot but be that ere long some way will be found to bring these two forces to
+          a decisive issue.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. Sturge seemed exceedingly anxious that the American states
+          should adopt the theory of immediate, and not gradual, emancipation. I told him
+          the great difficulty was to persuade them to think of any emancipation at all;
+          that the present disposition was to treat slavery as the pillar and ground of
+          the truth, the ark of religion, the summary of morals, and the only true
+          millennial form of modern society.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">He gave me, however, a little account of their antislavery
+          struggles in England, and said, what was well worthy of note, that they made no
+          apparent progress in affecting public opinion until they firmly advocated the
+          right of every innocent being to immediate and complete freedom, without any
+          conditions. He said that a woman is fairly entitled to the credit of this
+          suggestion. Elizabeth Heyrick of Leicester, a member of the society of Friends,
+          published a pamphlet entitled Immediate, not Gradual Emancipation. This little
+          pamphlet contains much good sense; and, being put forth at a time when men were
+          really anxious to know the truth, produced a powerful impression.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">She remarked, very sensibly, that the difficulty had arisen from
+          indistinct ideas in respect to what is implied in emancipation. She went on to
+          show that emancipation did not imply freedom from government and restraint;
+          that it properly brought a slave under the control of the law, instead of that
+          of an individual; and that it was possible so to apply law as perfectly to
+          control the emancipated. This is an idea which seems simple enough when pointed
+          out; but men often stumble a long while before they discover what is most
+          obvious.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next day was Sunday; and, in order to preserve our
+          incognito, and secure an uninterrupted rest, free from conversation and
+          excitement, we were obliged to deprive ourselves of the pleasure of hearing our
+          friend Rev. John Angell James, which we had much desired to do.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was a warm, pleasant day, and we spent much of our time in a
+          beautiful arbor constructed in a retired place in the garden, where the trees
+          and shrubbery were so arranged as to make a most charming retreat.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The grounds of Mr. Sturge are very near to those of his
+          brother&mdash;only a narrow road interposing between them. They have contrived
+          to make them one by building under this road a subterranean passage, so that
+          the two families can pass and repass into each other's grounds in perfect
+          privacy.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These English gardens delight me much; they unite variety,
+          quaintness, and an imitation of the wildness of nature with the utmost care and
+          cultivation. I was particularly pleased with the rockwork, which at times
+          formed the walls of certain walks, the hollows and interstices of which were
+          filled with every variety of creeping plants. Mr. Sturge told me that the
+          substance of which these rockeries are made is sold expressly for the
+          purpose.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On one side of the grounds was an old-fashioned cottage, which
+          one of my friends informed me Mr. Sturge formerly kept fitted up as a water
+          cure hospital, for those whose means did not allow them to go to larger
+          establishments. The plan was afterwards abandoned. One must see that such an
+          enterprise would have many practical difficulties.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At noon we dined in the house of the other brother, Mr. Edmund
+          Sturge. Here I noticed a full-length engraving of Joseph Sturge. He is
+          represented as standing with his hand placed protectingly on the head of a
+          black child.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We enjoyed our quiet season with these two families exceedingly.
+          We seemed to feel ourselves in an atmosphere where all was peace and good will
+          to man. The little children, after dinner, took us through the walks, to show
+          us their beautiful rabbits and other pets. Every thing seemed in order,
+          peaceable and quiet. Towards evening we went back through the arched passage to
+          the other house again. My Sunday here has always seemed to me a pleasant kind
+          of pastoral, much like the communion of Christian and Faithful with the
+          shepherds on the Delectable Mountains.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">What is remarkable of all these Friends is, that, although they
+          have been called, in the prosecution of philanthropic enterprises, to encounter
+          so much opposition, and see so much of the unfavorable side of human nature,
+          they are so habitually free from any tinge of uncharitableness or evil speaking
+          in their statements with regard to the character and motives of others. There
+          is also an habitual avoidance of all exaggerated forms of statement, a sobriety
+          of diction, which, united with great affectionateness of manner, inspires the
+          warmest confidence.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">C. had been, with Mr. Sturge, during the afternoon, to a meeting
+          of the Friends, and heard a discourse from Sibyl Jones, one of the most popular
+          of their female preachers. Sibyl is a native of the town of Brunswick, in the
+          State of Maine. She and her husband, being both preachers, have travelled
+          extensively in the prosecution of various philanthropic and religious
+          enterprises.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening Mr. Sturge said that she had expressed a desire
+          to see me. Accordingly I went with him to call upon her, and found her in the
+          family of two aged Friends, surrounded by a circle of the same denomination.
+          She is a woman of great delicacy of appearance, betokening very frail health. I
+          am told that she is most of her time in a state of extreme suffering from
+          neuralgic complaints. There was a mingled expression of enthusiasm and
+          tenderness in her face which was very interesting. She had had, according to
+          the language of her sect, a concern upon her mind for me.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To my mind there is something peculiarly interesting about that
+          primitive simplicity and frankness with which the members of this body express
+          themselves. She desired to caution me against the temptations of too much
+          flattery and applause, and against the worldliness which might beset me in
+          London. Her manner of addressing me was like one who is commissioned with a
+          message which must be spoken with plainness and sincerity. After this the whole
+          circle kneeled, and she offered prayer. I was somewhat painfully impressed with
+          her evident fragility of body, compared with the enthusiastic workings of her
+          mind.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the course of the conversation she inquired if I was going to
+          Ireland. I told her, yes, that was my intention. She begged that I would visit
+          the western coast, adding, with great feeling, "It was the miseries which I saw
+          there which have brought my health to the state it is." She had travelled
+          extensively in the Southern States, and had, in private conversation, been able
+          very fully to bear her witness against slavery, and had never been heard with
+          unkindness.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The whole incident afforded me matter for reflection. The
+          calling of women to distinct religious vocations, it appears to me, was a part
+          of primitive Christianity; has been one of the most efficient elements of power
+          in the Romish church; obtained among the Methodists in England; and has, in all
+          these cases, been productive of great good. The deaconesses whom the apostle
+          mentions with honor in his epistle, Madame Guyon in the Romish church, Mrs.
+          Fletcher, Elizabeth Fry, are instances which show how much may be done for
+          mankind by women who feel themselves impelled to a special religious
+          vocation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Bible, which always favors liberal development, countenances
+          this idea, by the instances of Deborah, Anna the prophetess, and by allusions
+          in the New Testament, which plainly show that the prophetic gift descended upon
+          women. St. Peter, quoting from the prophetic writings, says, "Upon your sons
+          and upon your daughters I will pour out my spirit, and they shall prophesy."
+          And St. Paul alludes to women praying and prophesying in the public assemblies
+          of the Christians, and only enjoins that it should be done with becoming
+          attention to the established usages of female delicacy. The example of the
+          Quakers is a sufficient proof that acting upon this idea does not produce
+          discord and domestic disorder. No class of people are more remarkable for
+          quietness and propriety of deportment, and for household order and domestic
+          excellence. By the admission of this liberty, the world is now and then gifted
+          with a woman like Elizabeth Fry, while the family state loses none of its
+          security and sacredness. No one in our day can charge the ladies of the Quaker
+          sect with boldness or indecorum; and they have demonstrated that even public
+          teaching, when performed under the influence of an overpowering devotional
+          spirit, does not interfere with feminine propriety and modesty.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The fact is, that the number of women to whom this vocation is
+          given will always be comparatively few: they are, and generally will be,
+          exceptions; and the majority of the religious world, ancient and modern, has
+          decided that these exceptions are to be treated with reverence.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next morning, as we were sitting down to breakfast, our
+          friends of the other house sent in to me a plate of the largest, finest
+          strawberries I have ever seen, which, considering that it was only the latter
+          part of April, seemed to me quite an astonishing luxury.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On the morning before we left we had agreed to meet a circle of
+          friends from Birmingham, consisting of the Abolition Society there, which is of
+          long standing, extending back in its memories to the very commencement of the
+          agitation under Clarkson and Wilberforce. It was a pleasant morning, the 1st of
+          May. The windows of the parlor were opened to the ground; and the company
+          invited filled not only the room, but stood in a crowd on the grass around the
+          window. Among the peaceable company present was an admiral in the navy, a fine,
+          cheerful old gentleman, who entered with hearty interest into the scene.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The lady secretary of the society read a neatly-written address,
+          full of kind feeling and Christian sentiment. Joseph Sturge made a few sensible
+          and practical remarks on the present aspects of the antislavery cause in the
+          world, and the most practical mode of assisting it among English Christians. He
+          dwelt particularly on the encouragement of free labor. The Rev. John Angell
+          James followed with some extremely kind and interesting remarks, and Mr. S.
+          replied. As we were intending to return to this city to make a longer visit, we
+          felt that this interview was but a glimpse of friends whom we hoped to know
+          more perfectly hereafter.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A throng of friends accompanied us to the depot. We had the
+          pleasure of the company of Elihu Burritt, and enjoyed a delightful run to
+          London, where we arrived towards evening.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_30" name="toc_30"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XIII</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear
+          Sister</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At the station house in London, we found Rev. Messrs. Binney and
+          Sherman waiting for us with carriages. C. went with Mr. Sherman, and Mr. S. and
+          I soon found ourselves in a charming retreat called Rose Cottage, in Walworth,
+          about which I will tell you more anon. Mrs. B. received us with every attention
+          which the most thoughtful hospitality could suggest.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">S. and W., who had gone on before us, and taken lodgings very
+          near, were there waiting to receive us. One of the first things S. said to me,
+          after we got into our room, was, "O, H&mdash;&mdash;, we are so glad you have
+          come, for we are all going to the lord mayor's dinner to night, and you are
+          invited."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"What!" said I, "the lord mayor of London, that I used to read
+          about in Whittington and his Cat?" And immediately there came to my ears the
+          sound of the old chime, which made so powerful an impression on my childish
+          memory, wherein all the bells of London were represented as tolling.</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Turn again, Whittington,</p>
+            <p class="l">Thrice lord mayor of London."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">It is curious what an influence these old rhymes have on
+          our associations.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">S. went on to tell me that the party was the annual dinner given
+          to the judges of England by the lord mayor, and that there we should see the
+          whole English bar, and hosts of <em>distingu&eacute;s</em> besides. So, though
+          I was tired, I hurried to dress in all the glee of meeting an adventure, as Mr.
+          and Mrs. B. and the rest of the party were ready. Crack went the whip, round
+          went the wheels, and away we drove.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We alighted at the Mansion House, and entered a large
+          illuminated hall, supported by pillars. Chandeliers were glittering, servants
+          with powdered heads and gold lace coats were hurrying to and fro in every
+          direction, receiving company and announcing names. Do you want to know how
+          announcing is done? Well, suppose a staircase, a hall, and two or three
+          corridors, intervening between you and the drawing room. At all convenient
+          distances on this route are stationed these grave, powdered-headed gentlemen,
+          with their embroidered coats. You walk up to the first one, and tell him
+          confidentially that you are Miss Smith. He calls to the man on the first
+          landing, "Miss Smith." The man on the landing says to the man in the corridor,
+          "Miss Smith." The man in the corridor shouts to the man at the drawing room
+          door, "Miss Smith." And thus, following the sound of your name, you hear it for
+          the last time shouted aloud, just before you enter the room.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We found a considerable throng, and I was glad to accept a seat
+          which was offered me in the agreeable vicinity of the lady mayoress, so that I
+          might see what would be interesting to me of the ceremonial.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The titles in law here, as in every thing else, are manifold;
+          and the powdered-headed gentleman at the door pronounced them with an evident
+          relish, which was joyous to hear&mdash;Mr. Attorney, Mr. Solicitor, and Mr.
+          Sergeant; Lord Chief Baron, Lord Chief Justice, and Lord this, and Lord that,
+          and Lord the other, more than I could possibly remember, as in they came
+          dressed in black, with smallclothes and silk stockings, with swords by their
+          sides, and little cocked hats under their arms, bowing gracefully before the
+          lady mayoress.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I saw no big wigs, but some wore the hair tied behind with a
+          small black silk bag attached to it. Some of the principal men were dressed in
+          black velvet, which became them finely. Some had broad shirt frills of point or
+          Mechlin lace, with wide ruffles of the same round their wrists.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Poor C., barbarian that he was, and utterly unaware of the
+          priceless gentility of the thing, said to me, <em>sotto voce</em>, "How can men
+          wear such dirty stuff? Why don't they wash it?" I expounded to him what an
+          ignorant sinner he was, and that the dirt of ages was one of the surest
+          indications of value. Wash point lace! it would be as bad as cleaning up the
+          antiquary's study.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The ladies were in full dress, which here in England means
+          always a dress which exposes the neck and shoulders. This requirement seems to
+          be universal, since ladies of all ages conform to it. It may, perhaps, account
+          for this custom, to say that the bust of an English lady is seldom otherwise
+          than fine, and develops a full outline at what we should call quite an advanced
+          period of life.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A very dignified gentleman, dressed in black velvet, with a fine
+          head, made his way through the throng, and sat down by me, introducing himself
+          as Lord Chief Baron Pollock. He told me he had just been reading the legal part
+          of the Key to Uncle Tom's Cabin, and remarked especially on the opinion of
+          Judge Ruffin, in the case of State <em>v.</em> Mann, as having made a deep
+          impression on his mind. Of the character of the decision, considered as a legal
+          and literary document, he spoke in terms of high admiration; said that nothing
+          had ever given him so clear a view of the essential nature of slavery. We found
+          that this document had produced the same impression on the minds of several
+          others present. Mr. S. said that one or two distinguished legal gentlemen
+          mentioned it to him in similar terms. The talent and force displayed in it, as
+          well as the high spirit and scorn of dissimulation, appear to have created a
+          strong interest in its author. It always seemed to me that there was a certain
+          severe strength and grandeur about it which approached to the heroic. One or
+          two said that they were glad such a man had retired from the practice of such a
+          system of law.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">But there was scarce a moment for conversation amid the whirl
+          and eddy of so many presentations. Before the company had all assembled, the
+          room was a perfect jam of legal and literary notabilities. The dinner was
+          announced between nine and ten o'clock. We were conducted into a splendid hall,
+          where the tables were laid. Four long tables were set parallel with the length
+          of the hall, and one on a raised platform across the upper end. In the midst of
+          this sat the lord mayor and lady mayoress, on their right hand the judges, on
+          their left the American minister, with other distinguished guests. I sat by a
+          most agreeable and interesting young lady, who seemed to take pleasure in
+          enlightening me on all those matters about which a stranger would naturally be
+          inquisitive.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Directly opposite me was Mr. Dickens, whom I now beheld for the
+          first time, and was surprised to see looking so young. Mr. Justice Talfourd,
+          known as the author of Ion, was also there with his lady. She had a beautiful
+          antique cast of head.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The lord mayor was simply dressed in black, without any other
+          adornment than a massive gold chain.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I asked the lady if he had not robes of state. She replied, yes;
+          but they were very heavy and cumbersome, and that he never wore them when he
+          could, with any propriety, avoid it. It seems to me that this matter of outward
+          parade and state is gradually losing its hold even here in England. As society
+          becomes enlightened, men care less and less for mere shows, and are apt to
+          neglect those outward forms which have neither beauty nor convenience on their
+          side, such as judges' wigs and lord mayors' robes.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As a general thing the company were more plainly dressed than I
+          had expected. I am really glad that there is a movement being made to carry the
+          doctrine of plain dress into our diplomatic representation. Even older nations
+          are becoming tired of mere shows; and, certainly, the representatives of a
+          republic ought not to begin to put on the finery which monarchies are beginning
+          to cast off.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The present lord mayor is a member of the House of
+          Commons&mdash;a most liberal-minded man; very simple, but pleasing in his
+          appearance and address; one who seems to think more of essentials than of
+          show.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">He is a dissenter, being a member of Rev. Mr. Binney's church, a
+          man warmly interested in the promotion of Sabbath schools, and every worthy and
+          benevolent object.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The ceremonies of the dinner were long and weary, and, I
+          thought, seemed to be more fully entered into by a flourishing official, who
+          stood at the mayor's back, than by any other person present.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The business of toast-drinking is reduced to the nicest system.
+          A regular official, called a toast master, stood behind the lord mayor with a
+          paper, from which he read the toasts in their order. Every one, according to
+          his several rank, pretensions, and station, must be toasted in his gradation;
+          and every person toasted must have his name announced by the
+          official,&mdash;the larger dignitaries being proposed alone in their glory,
+          while the smaller fry are read out by the dozen,&mdash;and to each toast
+          somebody must get up and make a speech.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">First, after the usual loyal toasts, the lord mayor proposed the
+          health of the American minister, expressing himself in the warmest terms of
+          friendship towards our country; to which Mr. Ingersoll responded very
+          handsomely. Among the speakers I was particularly pleased with Lord Chief Baron
+          Pollock, who, in the absence of Lord Chief Justice Campbell, was toasted as the
+          highest representative of the legal profession. He spoke with great dignity,
+          simplicity, and courtesy, taking occasion to pay very flattering compliments to
+          the American legal profession, speaking particularly of Judge Story. The
+          compliment gave me great pleasure, because it seemed a just and noble-minded
+          appreciation, and not a mere civil fiction. We are always better pleased with
+          appreciation than flattery, though perhaps he strained a point when he said,
+          "Our brethren on the other side of the Atlantic, with whom we are now
+          exchanging legal authorities, I fear largely surpass us in the production of
+          philosophic and comprehensive forms."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Speaking of the two countries he said, "God forbid that, with a
+          common language, with common laws which we are materially improving for the
+          benefit of mankind, with one common literature, with one common religion, and
+          above all with one common love of liberty, God forbid that any feeling should
+          arise between the two countries but the desire to carry through the world these
+          advantages."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. Justice Talfourd proposed the literature of our two
+          countries, under the head of "Anglo-Saxon Literature." He made allusion to the
+          author of Uncle Tom's Cabin and Mr. Dickens, speaking of both as having
+          employed fiction as a means of awakening the attention of the respective
+          countries to the condition of the oppressed and suffering classes. Mr. Talfourd
+          appears to be in the prime of life, of a robust and somewhat florid habit. He
+          is universally beloved for his nobleness of soul and generous interest in all
+          that tends to promote the welfare of humanity, no less than for his classical
+          and scholarly attainments.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. Dickens replied to this toast in a graceful and playful
+          strain. In the former part of the evening, in reply to a toast on the chancery
+          department, Vice-Chancellor Wood, who spoke in the absence of the lord
+          chancellor, made a sort of defence of the Court of Chancery, not distinctly
+          alluding to Bleak House, but evidently not without reference to it. The amount
+          of what he said was, that the court had received a great many more hard
+          opinions than it merited; that they had been parsimoniously obliged to perform
+          a great amount of business by a very inadequate number of judges; but that more
+          recently the number of judges had been increased to seven, and there was reason
+          to hope that all business brought before it would now be performed without
+          unnecessary delay.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the conclusion of Mr. Dickens's speech he alluded playfully
+          to this item of intelligence; said he was exceedingly happy to hear it, as he
+          trusted now that a suit, in which he was greatly interested, would speedily
+          come to an end. I heard a little by conversation between Mr. Dickens and a
+          gentleman of the bar, who sat opposite me, in which the latter seemed to be
+          reiterating the same assertions, and I understood him to say, that a case not
+          extraordinarily complicated might be got through with in three months. Mr.
+          Dickens said he was very happy to hear it; but I fancied there was a little
+          shade of incredulity in his manner; however, the incident showed one thing,
+          that is, that the chancery were not insensible to the representations of
+          Dickens; but the whole tone of the thing was quite good-natured and agreeable.
+          In this respect, I must say I think the English are quite remarkable. Every
+          thing here meets the very freest handling; nothing is too sacred to be publicly
+          shown up; but those who are exhibited appear to have too much good sense to
+          recognize the force of the picture by getting angry. Mr. Dickens has gone on
+          unmercifully exposing all sorts of weak places in the English fabric, public
+          and private, yet nobody cries out upon him as the slanderer of his country. He
+          serves up Lord Dedlocks to his heart's content, yet none of the nobility make
+          wry faces about it; nobody is in a hurry to proclaim that he has recognized the
+          picture, by getting into a passion at it. The contrast between the people of
+          England and America, in this respect, is rather unfavorable to us, because they
+          are by profession conservative, and we by profession radical.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">For us to be annoyed when any of our institutions are commented
+          upon, is in the highest degree absurd; it would do well enough for Naples, but
+          it does not do for America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were some curious old customs observed at this dinner
+          which interested me as peculiar. About the middle of the feast, the official
+          who performed all the announcing made the declaration that the lord mayor and
+          lady mayoress would pledge the guests in a loving cup. They then rose, and the
+          official presented them with a massive gold cup, full of wine, in which they
+          pledged the guests. It then passed down the table, and the guests rose, two and
+          two, each tasting and presenting to the other. My fair informant told me that
+          this was a custom which had come down from the most ancient time.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The banquet was enlivened at intervals by songs from
+          professional singers, hired for the occasion. After the banquet was over,
+          massive gold basins, filled with rose water, slid along down the table, into
+          which the guests dipped their napkins&mdash;an improvement, I suppose, on the
+          doctrine of finger glasses, or perhaps the primeval form of the custom.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We rose from table between eleven and twelve o'clock&mdash;that
+          is, we ladies&mdash;and went into the drawing room, where I was presented to
+          Mrs. Dickens and several other ladies. Mrs. Dickens is a good specimen of a
+          truly English woman; tall, large, and well developed, with fine, healthy color,
+          and an air of frankness, cheerfulness, and reliability. A friend whispered to
+          me that she was as observing, and fond of humor, as her husband.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After a while the gentlemen came back to the drawing room, and I
+          had a few moments of very pleasant, friendly conversation with Mr. Dickens.
+          They are both people that one could not know a little of without desiring to
+          know more.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I had some conversation with the lady mayoress. She said she had
+          been invited to meet me at Stafford House on Saturday, but should be unable to
+          attend, as she had called a meeting on the same day of the city ladies, for
+          considering the condition of milliners and dressmakers, and to form a society
+          for their relief to act in conjunction with that of the west end.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After a little we began to talk of separating; the lord mayor to
+          take his seat in the House of Commons, and the rest of the party to any other
+          engagement that might be upon their list.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Come, let us go to the House of Commons," said one of my
+          friends, "and make a night of it." "With all my heart," replied I, "if I only
+          had another body to go into to-morrow."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">What a convenience in sight-seeing it would be if one could have
+          a relay of bodies, as of clothes, and go from one into the other. But we, not
+          used to the London style of turning night into day, are full weary already; so,
+          good night.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_31" name="toc_31"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XIV</h2>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">Rose Cottage, Walworth, London</span>, May
+          2.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My
+          Dear</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This morning Mrs. Follen called, and we had quite a long chat
+          together. We are separated by the whole city. She lives at West End, while I am
+          down here in Walworth, which is one of the postscripts of London; for London
+          has as many postscripts as a lady's letter&mdash;little suburban villages which
+          have been overtaken by the growth, of the city, and embraced in its arms. I
+          like them a great deal better than the city, for my part.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here now, for instance, at Walworth, I can look out at a window
+          and see a nice green meadow with sheep and lambs feeding in it, which is some
+          relief in this smutty old place. London is as smutty as Pittsburg or Wheeling.
+          It takes a good hour's steady riding to get from here to West End; so that my
+          American friends, of the newspapers, who are afraid I shall be corrupted by
+          aristocratic associations, will see that I am at safe distance.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This evening we are appointed to dine with the Earl of Carlisle.
+          There is to be no company but his own family circle, for he, with great
+          consideration, said in his note that he thought a little quiet would be the
+          best thing he could offer. Lord Carlisle is a great friend to America; and so
+          is his sister, the Duchess of Sutherland. He is the only English traveller who
+          ever wrote notes on our country in a real spirit of appreciation. While the
+          Halls, and Trollopes, and all the rest could see nothing but our breaking eggs
+          on the wrong end, or such matters, he discerned and interpreted those points
+          wherein lies the real strength of our growing country. His notes on America
+          were not very extended, being only sketches delivered as a lyceum lecture some
+          years after his return. It was the spirit and quality, rather than quantity, of
+          the thing that was noticeable.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I observe that American newspapers are sneering about his
+          preface to Uncle Tom's Cabin; but they ought at least to remember that his
+          sentiments with regard to slavery are no sudden freak. In the first place, he
+          comes of a family that has always been on the side of liberal and progressive
+          principles. He himself has been a leader of reforms on the popular side. It was
+          a temporary defeat, when run as an anti-corn-law candidate, which gave him
+          leisure to travel in America. Afterwards he had the satisfaction to be
+          triumphantly returned for that district, and to see the measure he had
+          advocated fully successful.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">While Lord Carlisle was in America he never disguised those
+          antislavery sentiments which formed a part of his political and religious creed
+          as an Englishman, and as the heir of a house always true to progress. Many
+          cultivated English people have shrunk from acknowledging abolitionists in
+          Boston, where the ostracism of fashion and wealth has been enforced against
+          them. Lord Carlisle, though moving in the highest circle, honestly and openly
+          expressed his respect for them on all occasions. He attended the Boston
+          antislavery fair, which at that time was quite a decided step. Nor did he even
+          in any part of our country disguise his convictions. There is, therefore,
+          propriety and consistency in the course he has taken now.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It would seem that a warm interest in questions of a public
+          nature has always distinguished the ladies of this family. The Duchess of
+          Sutherland's mother is daughter of the celebrated Duchess of Devonshire, who,
+          in her day, employed on the liberal side in politics all the power of genius,
+          wit, beauty, and rank. It was to the electioneering talents of herself and her
+          sister, the Lady Duncannon, that Fox, at one crisis, owed his election. We
+          Americans should remember that it was this party who advocated our cause during
+          our revolutionary struggle. Fox and his associates pleaded for us with much the
+          same arguments, and with the same earnestness and warmth, that American
+          abolitionists now plead for the slaves. They stood against all the power of the
+          king and cabinet, as the abolitionists in America in 1850 stood against
+          president and cabinet.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Duchess of Devonshire was a woman of real noble impulses and
+          generous emotions, and had a true sympathy for what is free and heroic.
+          Coleridge has some fine lines addressed to her,&mdash;called forth by a sonnet
+          which she composed, while in Switzerland, on William Tell's Chapel,&mdash;which
+          begin,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"O lady, nursed in pomp and pleasure,</p>
+            <p class="l">Where learn'dst thou that heroic measure?"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The Duchess of Sutherland, in our times, has been known to
+          be no less warmly interested on the liberal side. So great was her influence
+          held to be, that upon a certain occasion when a tory cabinet was to be formed,
+          a distinguished minister is reported to have said to the queen that he could
+          not hope to succeed in his administration while such a decided influence as
+          that of the Duchess of Sutherland stood at the head of her majesty's household.
+          The queen's spirited refusal to surrender her favorite attendant attracted, at
+          the time, universal admiration.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Like her brother Lord Carlisle, the Duchess of Sutherland has
+          always professed those sentiments with regard to slavery which are the glory of
+          the English nation, and which are held with more particular zeal by those
+          families who are favorable to the progress of liberal ideas.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At about seven o'clock we took our carriage to go to the Earl of
+          Carlisle's, the dinner hour being here somewhere between eight and nine. As we
+          rode on through the usual steady drizzling rain, from street to street and
+          square to square, crossing Waterloo Bridge, with its avenue of lamps faintly
+          visible in the seethy mist, plunging through the heart of the city, we began to
+          realize something of the immense extent of London.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Altogether the most striking objects that you pass, as you ride
+          in the evening thus, are the gin shops, flaming and flaring from the most
+          conspicuous positions, with plate-glass windows and dazzling lights, thronged
+          with men, and women, and children, drinking destruction. Mothers go there with
+          babies in their arms, and take what turns the mother's milk to poison. Husbands
+          go there, and spend the money that their children want for bread, and
+          multitudes of boys and girls of the age of my own. In Paris and other European
+          cities, at least the great fisher of souls baits with something attractive, but
+          in these gin shops men bite at the bare, barbed hook. There are no garlands, no
+          dancing, no music, no theatricals, no pretence of social exhilaration, nothing
+          but hogsheads of spirits, and people going in to drink. The number of them that
+          I passed seemed to me absolutely appalling.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After long driving we found ourselves coming into the precincts
+          of the West End, and began to feel an indefinite sense that we were approaching
+          something very grand, though I cannot say that we saw much but heavy,
+          smoky-walled buildings, washed by the rain. At length we stopped in Grosvenor
+          Place, and alighted.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were shown into an anteroom adjoining the entrance hall, and
+          from that into an adjacent apartment, where we met Lord Carlisle. The room had
+          a pleasant, social air, warmed and enlivened by the blaze of a coal fire and
+          wax candles.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We had never, any of us, met Lord Carlisle before; but the
+          considerateness and cordiality of our reception obviated whatever embarrassment
+          there might have been in this circumstance. In a few moments after we were all
+          seated the servant announced the Duchess of Sutherland, and Lord Carlisle
+          presented me. She is tall and stately, with a decided fulness of outline, and a
+          most noble bearing. Her fair complexion, blond hair, and full lips speak of
+          Saxon blood. In her early youth she might have been a Rowena. I thought of the
+          lines of Wordsworth:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"A perfect woman, nobly planned,</p>
+            <p class="l">To warn, to comfort, to command."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Her manners have a peculiar warmth and cordiality. One sees
+          people now and then who seem to <em>radiate</em> kindness and vitality, and to
+          have a faculty of inspiring perfect confidence in a moment. There are no airs
+          of grandeur, no patronizing ways; but a genuine sincerity and kindliness that
+          seem to come from a deep fountain within.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The engraving by Winterhalter, which has been somewhat familiar
+          in America, is as just a representation of her air and bearing as could be
+          given.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After this we were presented to the various members of the
+          Howard family, which is a very numerous one. Among them were Lady Dover, Lady
+          Lascelles, and Lady Labouch&egrave;re, sisters of the duchess. The Earl of
+          Burlington, who is the heir of the Duke of Devonshire, was also present. The
+          Duke of Devonshire is the uncle of Lord Carlisle.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The only person present not of the family connection was my
+          quondam correspondent in America, Arthur Helps. Somehow or other I had formed
+          the impression from his writings that he was a venerable sage of very advanced
+          years, who contemplated life as an aged hermit, from the door of his cell.
+          Conceive my surprise to find a genial young gentleman of about twenty-five, who
+          looked as if he might enjoy a joke as well as another man.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At dinner I found myself between him and Lord Carlisle, and
+          perceiving, perhaps, that the nature of my reflections was of rather an amusing
+          order, he asked me confidentially if I did not like fun, to which I assented
+          with fervor. I like that little homely word <em>fun</em>, though I understand
+          the dictionary says what it represents is vulgar; but I think it has a good,
+          hearty, Saxon sound, and I like Saxon, better than Latin or French either.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When the servant offered me wine Lord Carlisle asked me if our
+          party were all <em>teetotallers</em>, and I said yes; that in America all
+          clergymen were teetotallers, of course.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After the ladies left the table the conversation turned on the
+          Maine law, which seems to be considered over here as a phenomenon, in
+          legislation, and many of the gentlemen, present inquired about it with great
+          curiosity.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When we went into the drawing room I was presented to the
+          venerable Countess of Carlisle, the earl's mother; a lady universally beloved
+          and revered, not less for superior traits of mind than for great loveliness and
+          benevolence of character. She received us with the utmost kindness; kindness
+          evidently genuine and real.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The walls of the drawing room were beautifully adorned with
+          works of art by the best masters. There was a Rembrandt hanging over the
+          fireplace, which showed finely by the evening light. It was simply the portrait
+          of a man with a broad, Flemish hat. There were one or two pictures, also, by
+          Cuyp. I should think he must have studied in America, so perfectly does he
+          represent the golden, hazy atmosphere of our Indian summer.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One of the ladies showed me a snuff box on which was a picture
+          of Lady Carlisle's mother, the celebrated Duchess of Devonshire, taken when she
+          was quite a little girl; a round, happy face, showing great vivacity and
+          genius. On another box was an exquisitely beautiful miniature of a relative of
+          the family.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After the gentlemen rejoined us came in the Duke and Duchess of
+          Argyle, and Lord and Lady Blantyre. These ladies are the daughters of the
+          Duchess of Sutherland. The Duchess of Argyle is of a slight and fairy-like
+          figure, with flaxen hair and blue eyes, answering well enough to the
+          description of Annot Lyle, in the Legend of Montrose. Lady Blantyre was
+          somewhat taller, of fuller figure, with very brilliant bloom. Lord Blantyre is
+          of the Stuart blood, a tall and slender young man, with very graceful
+          manners.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to the Duke of Argyle, we found that the picture drawn of him
+          by his countrymen in Scotland was every way correct. Though slight of figure,
+          with fair complexion and blue eyes, his whole appearance is indicative of
+          energy and vivacity. His talents and efficiency have made him a member of the
+          British cabinet at a much earlier age than is usual; and he has distinguished
+          himself not only in political life, but as a writer, having given to the world
+          a work on Presbyterianism, embracing an analysis of the ecclesiastical history
+          of Scotland since the reformation, which is spoken of as written with great
+          ability, in a most candid and liberal spirit.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The company soon formed themselves into little groups in
+          different parts of the room. The Duchess of Sutherland, Lord Carlisle, and the
+          Duke and Duchess of Argyle formed a circle, and turned the conversation upon
+          American topics. The Duke of Argyle made many inquiries about our distinguished
+          men; particularly of Emerson, Longfellow, and Hawthorne; also of Prescott, who
+          appears to be a general favorite here. I felt at the moment that we never value
+          our literary men so much as when placed in a circle of intelligent foreigners;
+          it is particularly so with Americans, because we have nothing but our men and
+          women to glory in&mdash;no court, no nobles, no castles, no cathedrals; except
+          we produce distinguished specimens of humanity, we are nothing.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The quietness of this evening circle, the charm of its kind
+          hospitality, the evident air of sincerity and good will which pervaded every
+          thing, made the evening pass most delightfully to me. I had never felt myself
+          more at home even among the Quakers. Such a visit is a true rest and
+          refreshment, a thousand times better than the most brilliant and glittering
+          entertainment.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At eleven o'clock, however, the carriage called, for our evening
+          was drawing to its close; that of our friends, I suppose, was but just
+          commencing, as London's liveliest hours are by gaslight, but we cannot learn
+          the art of turning night into day.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_32" name="toc_32"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XV</h2>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right">May 4.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          S.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This morning I felt too tired to go out any where; but Mr. and
+          Mrs. Binney persuaded me to go just a little while in to the meeting of the
+          Bible Society, for you must know that this is anniversary week, and so, besides
+          the usual rush, and roar, and whirl of London, there is the confluence of all
+          the religious forces in Exeter Hall. I told Mrs. B. that I was worn out, and
+          did not think I could sit through a single speech; but she tempted me by a
+          promise that I should withdraw at any moment. We had a nice little snug gallery
+          near one of the doors, where I could see all over the house, and make a quick
+          retreat in case of need.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In one point English ladies certainly do carry practical
+          industry farther than I ever saw it in America. Every body knows that an
+          anniversary meeting is something of a siege, and I observed many good ladies
+          below had made regular provision therefor, by bringing knitting work, sewing,
+          crochet, or embroidery. I thought it was an improvement, and mean to recommend
+          it when I get home. I am sure many of our Marthas in America will be very
+          grateful for the custom.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Earl of Shaftesbury was in the chair, and I saw him now for
+          the first time. He is quite a tall man, of slender figure, with a long and
+          narrow face, dark hazel eyes, and very thick, auburn hair. His bearing was
+          dignified and appropriate to his position. People here are somewhat amused by
+          the vivacity with which American papers are exhorting Lord Shaftesbury to look
+          into the factory system, and to explore the collieries, and in general to take
+          care of the suffering lower classes, as if he had been doing any thing else for
+          these twenty years past. To people who know how he has worked against wind and
+          tide, in the face of opposition and obloquy, and how all the dreadful
+          statistics that they quote against him were brought out expressly by inquiries
+          set on foot and prosecuted by him, and how these same statistics have been by
+          him reiterated in the ears of successive houses of Parliament till all these
+          abuses have been reformed, as far as the most stringent and minute legislation
+          can reform, them,&mdash;it is quite amusing to hear him exhorted to consider
+          the situation of the working classes. One reason for this, perhaps, is that
+          provoking facility in changing names which is incident to the English peerage.
+          During the time that most of the researches and speeches on the factory system
+          and collieries were made, the Earl of Shaftesbury was in the House of Commons,
+          with the title of Lord Ashley, and it was not till the death of his father that
+          he entered the House of Peers as Lord Shaftesbury. The contrast which a very
+          staid religious paper in America has drawn between Lord Ashley and Lord
+          Shaftesbury does not strike people over here as remarkably apposite.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the course of the speeches on this occasion, frequent and
+          feeling allusions were made to the condition of three millions of people in
+          America who are prevented by legislative enactments from reading for themselves
+          the word of life. I know it is not pleasant to our ministers upon the stage to
+          hear such things; but is the whole moral sense of the world to hush its voice,
+          the whole missionary spirit of Christianity to be restrained, because it is
+          disagreeable for us to be reminded of our national sins? At least, let the
+          moral atmosphere of the world be kept pure, though it should be too stimulating
+          for our diseased lungs. If oral instruction will do for three million slaves in
+          America, it will do equally well in Austria, Italy, and Spain, and the powers
+          that be, there, are just of the opinion that they are in America&mdash;that it
+          is dangerous to have the people read the Bible for themselves. Thoughts of this
+          kind were very ably set forth in some of the speeches. On the stage I noticed
+          Rev. Samuel R. Ward, from Toronto in Canada, a full blooded African of fine
+          personal presence. He was received and treated with much cordiality by the
+          ministerial brethren who surrounded him. I was sorry that I could not stay
+          through the speeches, for they were quite interesting. C. thought they were the
+          best he ever heard at an anniversary. I was obliged to leave after a little.
+          Mr. Sherman very kindly came for us in his carriage, and took us a little ride
+          into the country.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mrs. B. says that to-morrow morning we shall go out to see the
+          Dulwich Gallery, a fine collection of paintings by the old masters. Now, I
+          confess unto you that I have great suspicions of these old masters. Why, I wish
+          to know, should none but <em>old</em> masters be thought any thing of? Is not
+          nature ever springing, ever new? Is it not fair to conclude that all the
+          mechanical assistants of painting are improved with the advance of society, as
+          much as of all arts? May not the magical tints, which are said to be a secret
+          with the old masters, be the effect of time in part? or may not modern artists
+          have their secrets, as well, for future ages to study and admire? Then,
+          besides, how are we to know that our admiration of old masters is genuine,
+          since we can bring our taste to any thing, if we only know we must, and try
+          long enough? People never like olives the first time they eat them. In fact, I
+          must confess, I have some partialities towards young masters, and a sort of
+          suspicion that we are passing over better paintings at our side, to get at
+          those which, though the best of their day, are not so good as the best of ours.
+          I certainly do not worship the old English poets. With the exception of Milton
+          and Shakspeare, there is more poetry in the works of the writers of the last
+          fifty years than in all the rest together. Well, these are my surmises for the
+          present; but one thing I am determined&mdash;as my admiration is nothing to any
+          body but myself, I will keep some likes and dislikes of my own, and will not
+          get up any raptures that do not arise of themselves. I am entirely willing to
+          be conquered by any picture that has the power. I will be a non-resistant, but
+          that is all.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">May 5. Well, we saw the Dulwich Gallery; five rooms filled with
+          old masters, Murillos, Claudes, Rubens, Salvator Rosas, Titians, Cuyps,
+          Vandykes, and all the rest of them; probably not the best specimens of any one
+          of them, but good enough to begin with. C. and I took different courses. I said
+          to him, "Now choose nine pictures simply by your eye, and see how far its
+          untaught guidance will bring you within the canons of criticism." When he had
+          gone through all the rooms and marked his pictures, we found he had selected
+          two by Rubens, two by Vandyke, one by Salvator Rosa, three by Murillo, and one
+          by Titian. Pretty successful that, was it not, for a first essay? We then took
+          the catalogue, and selected all the pictures of each artist one after another,
+          in order to get an idea of the style of each. I had a great curiosity to see
+          Claude Lorraine's, remembering the poetical things that had been said and sung
+          of him. I thought I would see if I could distinguish them by my eye without
+          looking at the catalogue I found I could do so. I knew them by a certain misty
+          quality in the atmosphere. I was disappointed in them, very much. Certainly,
+          they were good paintings; I had nothing to object to them, but I profanely
+          thought I had seen pictures by modern landscape painters as far excelling them
+          as a brilliant morning excels a cool, gray day. Very likely the fault was all
+          in me, but I could not help it; so I tried the Murillos. There was a Virgin and
+          Child, with clouds around them. The virgin was a very pretty girl, such as you
+          may see by the dozen in any boarding school, and the child was a pretty child.
+          Call it the young mother and son, and it is a very pretty picture; but call it
+          Mary and the infant Jesus, and it is an utter failure. Not such was the Jewish
+          princess, the inspired poetess and priestess, the chosen of God among all
+          women.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It seems to me that painting is poetry expressing itself by
+          lines and colors instead of words; therefore there are two things to be
+          considered in every picture: first, the quality of the idea expressed, and
+          second, the quality of the language in which it is expressed. Now, with regard
+          to the first, I hold that every person of cultivated taste is as good a judge
+          of painting as of poetry. The second, which relates to the mode of expressing
+          the conception, including drawing and coloring, with all their secrets,
+          requires more study, and here our untaught perceptions must sometimes yield to
+          the judgment of artists. My first question, then, when I look at the work of an
+          artist, is, What sort of a mind has this man? What has he to say? And then I
+          consider, How does he say it?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now, with regard to Murillo, it appeared to me that he was a man
+          of rather a mediocre mind, with nothing very high or deep to say, but that he
+          was gifted with an exquisite faculty of expressing what he did say; and his
+          paintings seem to me to bear an analogy to Pope's poetry, wherein the power of
+          expression is wrought to the highest point, but without freshness or ideality
+          in the conception. As Pope could reproduce in most exquisite wording the
+          fervent ideas of Eloisa, without the power to originate such, so Murillo
+          reproduced the current and floating religious ideas of his times, with most
+          exquisite perfection of art and color, but without ideality or vitality. The
+          pictures of his which please me most are his beggar boys and flower girls,
+          where he abandons the region of ideality, and simply reproduces nature. His art
+          and coloring give an exquisite grace to such sketches.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to Vandyke, though evidently a fine painter, he is one whose
+          mind does not move me. He adds nothing to my stock of thoughts&mdash;awakens no
+          emotion. I know it is a fine picture, just as I have sometimes been conscious
+          in church that I was hearing a fine sermon, which somehow had not the slightest
+          effect upon me.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Rubens, on the contrary, whose pictures I detested with all the
+          energy of my soul, I knew and felt all the time, by the very pain he gave me,
+          to be a real living artist. There was a Venus and Cupid there, as fat and as
+          coarse as they could be, but so freely drawn, and so masterly in their
+          expression and handling, that one must feel that they were by an artist, who
+          could just as easily have painted them any other way if it had suited his
+          sovereign pleasure, and therefore we are the more vexed with him. When your
+          taste is crossed by a clever person, it always vexes you more than when it is
+          done by a stupid one, because it is done with such power that there is less
+          hope for you.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were a number of pictures of Cuyp there, which satisfied
+          my thirst for coloring, and appeared to me as I expected the Claudes would have
+          done. Generally speaking, his objects are few in number and commonplace in
+          their character&mdash;a bit of land and water, a few cattle and figures, in no
+          way remarkable; but then he floods the whole with that dreamy, misty sunlight,
+          such as fills the arches of our forests in the days of autumn. As I looked at
+          them I fancied I could hear nuts dropping from the trees among the dry leaves,
+          and see the goldenrods and purple asters, and hear the click of the squirrel as
+          he whips up the tree to his nest. For this one attribute of golden, dreamy
+          haziness, I like Cuyp. His power in shedding it over very simple objects
+          reminds me of some of the short poems of Longfellow, when things in themselves
+          most prosaic are flooded with a kind of poetic light from the inner soul. These
+          are merely first ideas and impressions. Of course I do not make up my mind
+          about any artist from what I have seen here. We must not expect a painter to
+          put his talent into every picture, more than a poet into every verse that he
+          writes. Like other men, he is sometimes brilliant and inspired, and at others
+          dull and heavy. In general, however, I have this to say, that there is some
+          kind of fascination about these old masters which I feel very sensibly. But
+          yet, I am sorry to add that there is very little of what I consider the highest
+          mission of art in the specimens I have thus far seen; nothing which speaks to
+          the deepest and the highest; which would inspire a generous ardor, or a solemn
+          religious trust. Vainly I seek for something divine, and ask of art to bring me
+          nearer to the source of all beauty and perfection. I find wealth of coloring,
+          freedom of design, and capability of expression wasting themselves merely in
+          portraying trivial sensualities and commonplace ideas. So much for the first
+          essay.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening we went to dine with our old friends of the
+          Dingle, Mr. and Mrs. Edward Cropper, who are now spending a little time in
+          London. We were delighted to meet them once more, and to hear from our
+          Liverpool friends. Mrs. Cropper's father, Lord Denman, has returned to England,
+          though with no sensible improvement in his health.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At dinner we were introduced to Lord and Lady Hatherton. Lord
+          Hatherton is a member of the whig party, and has been chief secretary for
+          Ireland. Lady Hatherton is a person of great cultivation and intelligence,
+          warmly interested in all the progressive movements of the day; and I gained
+          much information in her society. There were also present Sir Charles and Lady
+          Trevelyan; the former holds some appointment in the navy. Lady Trevelyan is a
+          sister of Macaulay.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening quite a circle came in; among others, Lady Emma
+          Campbell, sister of the Duke of Argyle; the daughters of the Archbishop of
+          Canterbury, who very kindly invited me to visit them, at Lambeth; and Mr.
+          Arthur Helps, besides many others whose names I need not mention.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">People here continually apologize for the weather, which, to say
+          the least, has been rather ungracious since we have been here; as if one ever
+          expected to find any thing but smoke, and darkness, and fog in London. The
+          authentic air with which they lament the existence of these things <em>at
+          present</em> would almost persuade one that <em>in general</em> London was a
+          very clear, bright place. I, however, assured them that, having heard from my
+          childhood of the smoke of London, its dimness and darkness, I found things much
+          better than I had expected.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">They talk here of spirit rappings and table turnings, I find, as
+          in America. Many rumors are afloat which seem to have no other effect than
+          merely to enliven the chitchat of an evening circle. I passed a very pleasant
+          evening, and left about ten o'clock. The gentleman who was handing me down
+          stairs said, "I suppose you are going to one or two other places to-night." The
+          idea struck me as so preposterous that I could not help an exclamation of
+          surprise.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">May 6. A good many calls this morning. Among others came Miss
+          Greenfield, the (so called) Black Swan. She appears to be a gentle, amiable,
+          and interesting young person. She was born the slave of a kind mistress, who
+          gave her every thing but education, and, dying, left her free with a little
+          property. The property she lost by some legal quibble, but had, like others of
+          her race, a passion for music, and could sing and play by ear. A young lady,
+          discovering her taste, gave her a few lessons. She has a most astonishing
+          voice. C. sat down to the piano and played, while she sung. Her voice runs
+          through a compass of three octaves and a fourth. This is four notes more than
+          Malibran's. She sings a most magnificent tenor, with such a breadth and volume
+          of sound that, with your back turned, you could not imagine it to be a woman.
+          While she was there, Mrs. S.C. Hall, of the Irish Sketches, was announced. She
+          is a tall, well-proportioned woman, with a fine color, dark-brown hair, and a
+          cheerful, cordial manner. She brought with her her only daughter, a young girl
+          about fifteen. I told her of Miss Greenfield, and, she took great interest in
+          her, and requested her to sing something for her. C. played the accompaniment,
+          and she sung Old Folks at Home, first in a soprano voice, and then in a tenor
+          or baritone. Mrs. Hall was amazed and delighted, and entered at once into her
+          cause. She said that she would call with me and present her to Sir George
+          Smart, who is at the head of the queen's musical establishment, and, of course,
+          the acknowledged leader of London musical judgment.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mrs. Hall very kindly told me that she had called to invite me
+          to seek a retreat with her in her charming little country house near London. I
+          do not mean that <em>she</em> called it a charming little retreat, but that
+          every one who speaks of it gives it that character. She told me that I should
+          there have positive and perfect quiet; and what could attract me more than
+          that? She said, moreover, that there they had a great many nightingales. Ah,
+          this "bower of roses by Bendemeer's stream," could I only go there! but I am
+          tied to London by a hundred engagements. I cannot do it. Nevertheless, I have
+          promised that I will go and spend some time yet, when Mr. S. leaves London.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the course of the day I had a note from Mrs. Hall, saying
+          that, as Sir George Smart was about leaving town, she had not waited for me,
+          but had taken Miss Greenfield to him herself. She writes that he was really
+          astonished and charmed at the wonderful weight, compass, and power of her
+          voice. He was also as well pleased with the mind in her singing, and her
+          quickness in doing and catching all that he told her. Should she have a public
+          opportunity to perform, he offered to hear her rehearse beforehand. Mrs. Hall
+          says this is a great deal for him, whose hours are all marked with gold.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening the house was opened in a general way for
+          callers, who were coming and going all the evening. I think there must have
+          been over two hundred people&mdash;among them Martin Farquhar Tupper, a little
+          man, with fresh, rosy complexion, and cheery, joyous manners; and Mary Howitt,
+          just such a cheerful, sensible, fireside companion as we find her in her
+          books,&mdash;winning love and trust the very first few moments of the
+          interview. The general topic of remark on meeting me seems to be, that I am not
+          so bad looking as they were afraid I was; and I do assure you that, when I have
+          seen the things that are put up in the shop windows here with my name under
+          them, I have been in wondering admiration at the boundless loving-kindness of
+          my English and Scottish friends, in keeping up such a warm heart for such a
+          Gorgon. I should think that the Sphinx in the London Museum might have sat for
+          most of them. I am going to make a collection of these portraits to bring home
+          to you. There is a great variety of them, and they will be useful, like the
+          Irishman's guideboard, which showed where the road did not go.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before the evening was through I was talked out and worn
+          out&mdash;there was hardly a chip of me left. To-morrow at eleven o'clock comes
+          the meeting at Stafford House. What it will amount to I do not know; but I take
+          no thought for the morrow.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_33" name="toc_33"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XVI</h2>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">May</span> 8.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          C.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In fulfilment of my agreement, I will tell you, as nearly as I
+          can remember, all the details of the meeting at Stafford House.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At about eleven o'clock we drove under the arched carriage way
+          of a mansion, externally, not very showy in appearance. It stands on the
+          borders of St. James's Park, opposite to Buckingham Palace, with a street on
+          the north side, and beautiful gardens on the south, while the park is extended
+          on the west.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were received at the door by two stately Highlanders in full
+          costume; and what seemed to me an innumerable multitude of servants in livery,
+          with powdered hair, repeated our names through the long corridors, from one to
+          another.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I have only a confused idea of passing from passage to passage,
+          and from hall to hall, till finally we were introduced into a large drawing
+          room. No person was present, and I was at full leisure to survey an apartment
+          whose arrangements more perfectly suited my eye and taste than any I had ever
+          seen before. There was not any particular splendor of furniture, or dazzling
+          display of upholstery, but an artistic, poetic air, resulting from the
+          arrangement of colors, and the disposition of the works of <em>virtu</em> with
+          which the room abounded. The great fault in many splendid rooms, is, that they
+          are arranged without any eye to unity of impression. The things in them may be
+          all fine in their way, but there is no harmony of result.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">People do not often consider that there may be a general
+          sentiment to be expressed in the arrangement of a room, as well as in the
+          composition of a picture. It is this leading idea which corresponds to what
+          painters call the ground tone, or harmonizing tint, of a picture. The presence
+          of this often renders a very simple room extremely fascinating, and the absence
+          of it makes the most splendid combinations of furniture powerless to
+          please.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The walls were covered with green damask, laid on flat, and
+          confined in its place by narrow gilt bands, which bordered it around the
+          margin. The chairs, ottomans, and sofas were of white woodwork, varnished and
+          gilded, covered with the same.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The carpet was of a green ground, bedropped with a small yellow
+          leaf; and in each window a circular, standing basket contained a whole bank of
+          primroses, growing as if in their native soil, their pale yellow blossoms and
+          green leaves harmonizing admirably with the general tone of coloring.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Through the fall of the lace curtains I could see out into the
+          beautiful grounds, whose clumps of blossoming white lilacs, and velvet grass,
+          seemed so in harmony with the green interior of the room, that one would think
+          they had been arranged as a continuation of the idea.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One of the first individual objects which attracted my attention
+          was, over the mantel-piece, a large, splendid picture by Landseer, which I have
+          often seen engraved. It represents the two eldest children of the Duchess of
+          Sutherland, the Marquis of Stafford, and Lady Blantyre, at that time Lady
+          Levison Gower, in their childhood. She is represented as feeding a fawn; a
+          little poodle dog is holding up a rose to her; and her brother is lying on the
+          ground, playing with an old staghound.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I had been familiar with Landseer's engravings, but this was the
+          first of his paintings I had ever seen, and I was struck with the rich and
+          harmonious quality of the coloring. There was also a full-length marble statue
+          of the Marquis of Stafford, taken, I should think, at about seventeen years of
+          age, in full Highland costume.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When the duchess appeared, I thought she looked handsomer by
+          daylight than in the evening. She was dressed in white muslin, with a drab
+          velvet basque slashed with satin of the same color. Her hair was confined by a
+          gold and diamond net on the back part of her head.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">She received us with the same warm and simple kindness which she
+          had shown before. We were presented to the Duke of Sutherland. He is a tall,
+          slender man, with rather a thin face, light brown hair, and a mild blue eye,
+          with an air of gentleness and dignity. The delicacy of his health prevents him
+          from moving in general society, or entering into public life. He spends much of
+          his time in reading, and devising and executing schemes of practical
+          benevolence for the welfare of his numerous dependants.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I sought a little private conversation with the duchess in her
+          boudoir, in which I frankly confessed a little anxiety respecting the
+          arrangements of the day: having lived all my life in such a shady and
+          sequestered way, and being entirely ignorant of life as it exists in the sphere
+          in which she moves, such apprehensions were rather natural.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">She begged that I would make myself entirely easy, and consider
+          myself as among my own friends; that she had invited a few friends to lunch,
+          and that afterwards others would call; that there would be a short address from
+          the ladies of England read by Lord Shaftesbury, which would require no
+          answer.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I could not but be grateful for the consideration thus evinced.
+          The matter being thus adjusted, we came back to the drawing room, when the
+          party began to assemble.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The only difference, I may say, by the by, in the gathering of
+          such a company and one with us, is in the announcing of names at the door; a,
+          custom which I think a good one, saving a vast deal of the breath we always
+          expend in company, by asking "Who is that? and that?" Then, too, people can
+          fall into conversation without a formal presentation, the presumption being
+          that nobody is invited with whom, it is not proper that you should converse.
+          The functionary who performed the announcing was a fine, stalwart man, in full
+          Highland costume, the duke being the head of a Highland clan.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Among the first that entered were the members of the family, the
+          Duke and Duchess of Argyle, Lord and Lady Blantyre, the Marquis and Marchioness
+          of Stafford, and Lady Emma Campbell. Then followed Lord Shaftesbury with his
+          beautiful lady, and her father and mother, Lord and Lady Palmerston. Lord
+          Palmerston is of middle height, with a keen, dark eye, and black hair streaked
+          with gray. There is something peculiarly alert and vivacious about all his
+          movements; in short his appearance perfectly answers to what we know of him
+          from his public life. One has a strange mythological feeling about the
+          existence of people of whom one hears for many years without ever seeing them.
+          While talking with Lord Palmerston I could but remember how often I had heard
+          father and Mr. S. exulting over his foreign despatches by our home
+          fireside.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Marquis of Lansdowne now entered. He is about the middle
+          height, with gray hair, blue eyes, and a mild, quiet dignity of manner. He is
+          one of those who, as Lord Henry Pettes, took a distinguished part with Clarkson
+          and Wilberforce in the abolition of the slave trade. He has always been a most
+          munificent patron of literature and art.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were present, also, Lord John Russell, Mr. Gladstone, and
+          Lord Grenville. The latter we all thought very strikingly resembled in his
+          appearance the poet Longfellow. My making the remark introduced the subject of
+          his poetry. The Duchess of Argyle appealed to her two little boys, who stood
+          each side of her, if they remembered her reading Evangeline to them. It is a
+          gratification to me that I find by every English fireside traces of one of our
+          American poets. These two little boys of the Duchess of Argyle, and the
+          youngest son of the Duchess of Sutherland, were beautiful fair-haired children,
+          picturesquely attired in the Highland costume. There were some other charming
+          children of the family circle present. The eldest son of the Duke of Argyle
+          bears the title of the Lord of Lorn, which Scott has rendered so poetical a
+          sound to our ears.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When lunch was announced, the Duke of Sutherland gave me his
+          arm, and led me through a suite of rooms into the dining hall. Each room that
+          we passed was rich in its pictures, statues, and artistic arrangements; a
+          poetic eye and taste had evidently presided over all. The table was beautifully
+          laid, ornamented by two magnificent <em>&eacute;pergnes</em>, crystal vases
+          supported by wrought silver standards, filled with the most brilliant hothouse
+          flowers; on the edges of the vases and nestling among the flowers were silver
+          doves of the size of life. The walls of the room were hung with gorgeous
+          pictures, and directly opposite to me was a portrait of the Duchess of
+          Sutherland, by Sir Thomas Lawrence, which has figured largely in our souvenirs
+          and books of beauty. She is represented with a little child in her arms; this
+          child, now Lady Blantyre, was sitting opposite to me at table, with a charming
+          little girl of her own, of about the same apparent age. When one sees such
+          things, one almost fancies this to be a fairy palace, where the cold demons of
+          age and time have lost their power.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I was seated next to Lord Lansdowne, who conversed much with me
+          about affairs in America. It seems to me that the great men of the old world
+          regard our country thoughtfully. It is a new development of society, acting
+          every day with greater and greater power on the old world; nor is it yet
+          clearly seen what its final results will be. His observations indicated a calm,
+          clear, thoughtful mind&mdash;an accurate observer of life and history.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Meanwhile the servants moved noiselessly to and fro, taking up
+          the various articles on the table, and offering them to the guests in a
+          peculiarly quiet manner. One of the dishes brought to me was a plover's nest,
+          precisely as the plover made it, with five little blue speckled eggs in it.
+          This mode of serving plover's eggs, as I understand it, is one of the fashions
+          of-the day, and has something quite sylvan and picturesque about it; but it
+          looked so, for all the world, like a robin's nest that I used to watch out in
+          our home orchard, that I had it not in my heart to profane the sanctity of the
+          image by eating one of the eggs.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The <em>cuisine</em> of these West End regions appears to be
+          entirely under French legislation, conducted by Parisian artists, skilled in
+          all subtle and metaphysical combinations of ethereal possibilities, quite
+          inscrutable to the eye of sense. Her grace's <em>chef</em>, I have heard it
+          said elsewhere, bears the reputation of being the first artist of his class in
+          England. The profession as thus sublimated bears the same proportion to the old
+          substantial English cookery that Mozart's music does to Handel's, or Midsummer
+          Night's Dream to Paradise Lost.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This meal, called <em>lunch</em>, is with the English quite an
+          institution, being apparently a less elaborate and ceremonious dinner. Every
+          thing is placed upon the table at once, and ladies sit down without removing
+          their bonnets; it is, I imagine, the most social and family meal of the day;
+          one in which children are admitted to the table, even in the presence of
+          company. It generally takes place in the middle of the day, and the dinner,
+          which comes after it, at eight or nine in the evening, is in comparison only a
+          ceremonial proceeding.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I could not help thinking, as I looked around on so many men
+          whom I had heard of historically all my life, how very much less they bear the
+          marks of age than men who have been connected a similar length of time with the
+          movements of our country. This appearance of youthfulness and alertness has a
+          constantly deceptive influence upon one in England. I cannot realize that
+          people are as old as history states them to be. In the present company there
+          were men of sixty or seventy, whom I should have pronounced at the first glance
+          to be fifty.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Generally speaking our working minds seem to wear out their
+          bodies faster; perhaps because our climate is more stimulating; more, perhaps,
+          from the intenser stimulus of our political <em>r&eacute;gime</em>, which never
+          leaves any thing long at rest.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The tone of manners in this distinguished circle did not obtrude
+          itself upon my mind as different from that of highly-educated people in our own
+          country. It appeared simple, friendly, natural, and sincere. They talked like
+          people who thought of what they were saying, rather than how to say it. The
+          practice of thorough culture and good breeding is substantially the same
+          through the world, though smaller conventionalities may differ.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After lunch the whole party ascended to the picture gallery,
+          passing on our way the grand staircase and hall, said to be the most
+          magnificent in Europe. All that wealth could command of artistic knowledge and
+          skill has been expended here to produce a superb result. It fills the entire
+          centre of the building, extending up to the roof and surmounted by a splendid
+          dome. On three sides a gallery runs round it supported by pillars. To this
+          gallery you ascend on the fourth side by a staircase, which midway has a broad,
+          flat landing, from which stairs ascend, on the right and left, into the
+          gallery. The whole hall and staircase, carpeted with a scarlet footcloth, give
+          a broad, rich mass of coloring, throwing out finely the statuary and gilded
+          balustrades. On the landing is a marble statue of a Sibyl, by Rinaldi. The
+          walls are adorned by gorgeous frescos from Paul Veronese. What is peculiar in
+          the arrangements of this hall is, that although so extensive, it still wears an
+          air of warm homelikeness and comfort, as if it might be a delightful place to
+          lounge and enjoy life, amid the ottomans, sofas, pictures, and statuary, which
+          are disposed here and there throughout.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All this, however, I passed rapidly by as I ascended the
+          staircase, and passed onward to the picture gallery. This was a room about a
+          hundred feet long by forty wide, surmounted by a dome gorgeously finished with
+          golden palm, trees and carving. This hall is lighted in the evening by a row of
+          gaslights placed outside the ground glass of the dome; this light is
+          concentrated and thrown down by strong reflectors, communicating thus the most
+          brilliant radiance without the usual heat of gas. This gallery is peculiarly
+          rich in paintings of the Spanish school. Among them are two superb Murillos,
+          taken from convents by Marshal Soult, during the time of his career in
+          Spain.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There was a painting by Paul de la Roche of the Earl of
+          Strafford led forth to execution, engravings of which we have seen in the print
+          shops in America. It is a strong and striking picture, and has great dramatic
+          effect. But there was a painting in one corner by a Flemish artist, whose name
+          I do not now remember, representing Christ under examination before Caiaphas.
+          It was a candle-light scene, and only two faces were very distinct; the
+          downcast, calm, resolute face of Christ, in which was written a perfect
+          knowledge of his approaching doom, and the eager, perturbed vehemence of the
+          high priest, who was interrogating him. On the frame was engraved the
+          lines,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"He was wounded for our transgressions,</p>
+            <p class="l">He was bruised for our iniquities;</p>
+            <p class="l">The chastisement of our peace was upon him,</p>
+            <p class="l">And with his stripes we are healed."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The presence of this picture here in the midst of this
+          scene was very affecting to me.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The company now began to assemble and throng the gallery, and
+          very soon the vast room was crowded. Among the throng I remember many
+          presentations, but of course must have forgotten many more. Archbishop Whately
+          was there, with Mrs. and Miss Whately; Macaulay, with two of his sisters;
+          Milman, the poet and historian; the Bishop of Oxford, Chevalier Bunsen and
+          lady, and many more.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When all the company were together Lord Shaftesbury read a very
+          short, kind, and considerate address in behalf of the ladies of England,
+          expressive of their cordial welcome. The address will be seen in the Morning
+          Advertiser, which I send you. The company remained a while after this, walking
+          through the rooms and conversing in different groups, and I talked with
+          several. Archbishop Whately, I thought, seemed rather inclined to be jocose: he
+          seems to me like some of our American divines; a man who pays little attention
+          to forms, and does not value them. There is a kind of brusque humor in his
+          address, a downright heartiness, which reminds one of western character. If he
+          had been born in our latitude, in Kentucky or Wisconsin, the natives would have
+          called him Whately, and said he was a real steamboat on an argument. This is
+          not precisely the kind of man we look for in an archbishop. One sees traces of
+          this humor in his Historic Doubts concerning the Existence of Napoleon. I
+          conversed with some who knew him intimately, and they said that he delighted in
+          puns and odd turns of language.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I was also introduced to the Bishop of Oxford, who is a son of
+          Wilberforce. He is a short man, of very youthful appearance, with bland,
+          graceful, courteous manners. He is much admired as a speaker. I heard him
+          spoken of as one of the most popular preachers of the day.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I must not forget to say that many ladies of the society of
+          Friends were here, and one came and put on to my arm a reticule, in which, she
+          said, were carried about the very first antislavery tracts ever distributed in
+          England. At that time the subject of antislavery was as unpopular in England as
+          it can be at this day any where in the world, and I trust that a day will come
+          when the subject will be as popular in South Carolina as it is now in England.
+          People always glory in the right after they have done it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After a while the company dispersed over the house to look at
+          the rooms. There are all sorts of parlors and reception rooms, furnished with
+          the same correct taste. Each room had its predominant color; among them blue
+          was a particular favorite.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The carpets were all of those small figures I have described,
+          the blue ones being of the same pattern with the green. The idea, I suppose, is
+          to produce a mass of color of a certain tone, and not to distract the eye with
+          the complicated pattern. Where so many objects of art and <em>virtu</em> are to
+          be exhibited, without this care in regulating and simplifying the ground tints,
+          there would be no unity in the impression. This was my philosophizing on the
+          matter, and if it is not the reason why it is done, it ought to be. It is as
+          good a theory as most theories, at any rate.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before we went away I made a little call on the Lady Constance
+          Grosvenor, and saw the future Marquis of Westminster, heir to the largest
+          estate in England. His beautiful mother is celebrated in the annals of the
+          court journal as one of the handsomest ladies in England. His little lordship
+          was presented to me in all the dignity of long, embroidered clothes, being
+          then, I believe, not quite a fortnight old, and I can assure you that he
+          demeaned himself with a gravity becoming his rank and expectations.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is a more than common interest attached to these children
+          by one who watches the present state of the world. On the character and
+          education of the princes and nobility of this generation the future history of
+          England must greatly depend.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This Stafford House meeting, in any view of it, is a most
+          remarkable fact. Kind and gratifying as its arrangements have been to me, I am
+          far from appropriating it to myself individually, as a personal honor. I rather
+          regard it as the most public expression possible of the feelings of the women
+          of England on one of the most important questions of our day&mdash;that, of
+          individual liberty considered in its religious bearings.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The most splendid of England's palaces has this day opened its
+          doors to the slave. Its treasures of wealth and of art, its prestige of high
+          name and historic memories, have been consecrated to the acknowledgment of
+          Christianity in that form, wherein, in our day, it is most frequently
+          denied&mdash;the recognition of the brotherhood of the human family, and the
+          equal religious value of every human soul. A fair and noble hand by this
+          meeting has fixed, in the most public manner, an ineffaceable seal to the
+          beautiful sentiments of that most Christian document, the letter of the ladies
+          of Great Britain to the ladies of America. That letter and this public
+          attestation of it are now historic facts, which wait their time and the
+          judgment of advancing Christianity.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Concerning that letter I have one or two things to say. Nothing
+          can be more false than the insinuation that has been thrown out in some
+          American papers, that it was a political movement. It had its first origin in
+          the deep religious feelings of the man whose whole life has been devoted to the
+          abolition of the white-labor slavery of Great Britain; the man whose eye
+          explored the darkness of the collieries, and counted the weary steps of the
+          cotton spinners&mdash;who penetrated the dens where the insane were tortured
+          with darkness, and cold, and stripes; and threaded the loathsome alleys of
+          London, haunts of fever and cholera: this man it was, whose heart was
+          overwhelmed by the tale of American slavery, and who could find no relief from,
+          this distress except in raising some voice to the ear of Christianity. Fearful
+          of the jealousy of political interference, Lord Shaftesbury published an
+          address to the ladies of England, in which he told them that he felt himself
+          moved by an irresistible impulse to entreat them to raise their voice, in the
+          name of a common Christianity and womanhood, to their American sisters. The
+          abuse which has fallen upon him for this most Christian proceeding does not in
+          the least surprise him, because it is of the kind that has always met him in
+          every benevolent movement. When in the Parliament of England he was pleading
+          for women in the collieries who were harnessed like beasts of burden, and made
+          to draw heavy loads through miry and dark passages, and for children who were
+          taken at three years old to labor where the sun never shines, he was met with
+          determined and furious opposition and obloquy&mdash;accused of being a
+          disorganizer, and of wishing to restore the dark ages. Very similar accusations
+          have attended all his efforts for the laboring classes during the long course
+          of seventeen years, which resulted at last in the triumphant passage of the
+          factory bill.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We in America ought to remember that the gentle remonstrance of
+          the letter of the ladies of England contains, in the mildest form, the
+          sentiments of universal Christendom. Rebukes much more pointed are coming back
+          to us even from, our own missionaries. A day is coming when, past all the
+          temporary currents of worldly excitement, we shall, each of us, stand alone
+          face to face with the perfect purity of our Redeemer. The thought of such a
+          final interview ought certainly to modify all our judgments now, that we may
+          strive to approve only what we shall then approve.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_34" name="toc_34"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XVII</h2>
+          <p class="noindent">LETTER XVII.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          C.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to those ridiculous stories about the Duchess of Sutherland,
+          which have found their way into many of the prints in America, one has only to
+          be here, moving in society, to see how excessively absurd they are.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All my way through Scotland, and through England, I was
+          associating, from day to day, with people of every religious denomination, and
+          every rank of life. I have been with, dissenters and with churchmen; with the
+          national Presbyterian church and the free Presbyterian; with Quakers and
+          Baptists.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In all these circles I have heard the great and noble of the
+          land freely spoken of and canvassed, and if there had been the least shadow of
+          a foundation for any such accusations, I certainly should have heard it
+          recognized in some manner. If in no other, such warm friends as I have heard
+          speak would have alluded to the subject in the way of defence; but I have
+          actually never heard any allusion of any sort, as if there was any thing to be
+          explained or accounted for.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As I have before intimated, the Howard family, to which the
+          duchess belongs, is one which has always been on the side of popular rights and
+          popular reform. Lord Carlisle, her brother, has been a leader of the people,
+          particularly during the time of the corn-law reformation, and <em>she</em> has
+          been known to take a wide and generous interest in all these subjects. Every
+          where that I have moved through Scotland and England I have heard her kindness
+          of heart, her affability of manner, and her attention to the feelings of others
+          spoken of as marked characteristics.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Imagine, then, what people must think when they find in
+          respectable American prints the absurd story of her turning her tenants out
+          into the snow, and ordering the cottages to be set on fire over their heads
+          because they would not go out.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">But, if you ask how such an absurd story could ever have been
+          made up, whether there is the least foundation to make it on, I answer, that it
+          is the exaggerated report of a movement made by the present Duke of
+          Sutherland's father, in the year 1811, and which was part of a great movement
+          that passed through, the Highlands of Scotland, when the advancing progress of
+          civilization began to make it necessary to change the estates from military to
+          agricultural establishments.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Soon after the union of the crowns of England and Scotland, the
+          border chiefs found it profitable to adopt upon their estates that system, of
+          agriculture to which their hills were adapted, rather than to continue the
+          maintenance of military retainers. Instead of keeping garrisons, with small
+          armies, in a district, they decided to keep only so many as could profitably
+          cultivate the land. The effect of this, of course, was like disbanding an army.
+          It threw many people out of employ, and forced them to seek for a home
+          elsewhere. Like many other movements which, in their final results, are
+          beneficial to society, this was at first vehemently resisted, and had to be
+          carried into effect in some cases by force. As I have said, it began first in
+          the southern counties of Scotland, soon after the union of the English and
+          Scottish crowns, and gradually crept northward&mdash;one county after another
+          yielding to the change. To a certain extent, as it progressed northward, the
+          demand for labor in the great towns absorbed the surplus population; but when
+          it came into the extreme Highlands, this refuge was wanting. Emigration to
+          America now became the resource; and the surplus population were induced to
+          this by means such as the Colonization Society now recommends and approves for
+          promoting emigration to Liberia.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The first farm that was so formed on the Sutherland estate was
+          in 1806. The great change was made in 1811-12, and completed in 1819-20.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Sutherland estates are in the most northern portion of
+          Scotland. The distance of this district from the more advanced parts of the
+          kingdom, the total want of roads, the unfrequent communication by sea, and the
+          want of towns, made it necessary to adopt a different course in regard to the
+          location of the Sutherland population from that which circumstances had
+          provided in other parts of Scotland, where they had been removed from the bleak
+          and uncultivable mountains. They had lots given them near the sea, or in more
+          fertile spots, where, by labor and industry, they might maintain themselves.
+          They had two years allowed them for preparing for the change, without payment
+          of rent. Timber for their houses was given, and many other facilities for
+          assisting their change.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The general agent of the Sutherland estate is Mr. Loch. In a
+          speech of this gentleman in the House of Commons, on the second reading of the
+          Scotch poor-law bill, June 12, 1845, he states the following fact with regard
+          to the management of the Sutherland estate during this period, from 1811 to
+          1833, which certainly can speak for itself: "I can state as from fact that,
+          from 1811 to 1833, not one sixpence of rent has been received from that county,
+          but, on the contrary, there has been sent there, for the benefit and
+          improvement of the people, a sum exceeding sixty thousand pounds."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. Loch goes on in the same speech to say, "There is no set of
+          people more industrious than the people of Sutherland. Thirty years since they
+          were engaged in illegal distillation to a very great extent; at the present
+          moment there is not, I believe, an illegal still in the county. Their morals
+          have improved as those habits have been abandoned; and they have added many
+          hundreds, I believe thousands, of acres to the land in cultivation since they
+          were placed upon the shore.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Previous to that change to which I have referred, they exported
+          very few cattle, and hardly any thing else. They were, also, every now and
+          then, exposed to all the difficulties of extreme famine. In the years 1812-13,
+          and 1816-17, so great was the misery that it was necessary to send down oatmeal
+          for their supply to the amount of nine thousand pounds, and that was given to
+          the people. But, since industrious habits were introduced, and they were
+          settled within reach of fishing, no such calamity has overtaken them. Their
+          condition was then so low that they were obliged to bleed their cattle, during
+          the winter, and mix the blood with the remnant of meal they had, in order to
+          save them from starvation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Since then the country has improved so much that the fish, in
+          particular, which they exported, in 1815, from one village alone, Helmsdale,
+          (which, previous to 1811, did not exist,) amounted to five thousand three
+          hundred and eighteen barrels of herring, and in 1844 thirty-seven thousand five
+          hundred and ninety-four barrels, giving employment to about three thousand nine
+          hundred people. This extends over the whole of the county, in which fifty-six
+          thousand barrels were cured.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Do not let me be supposed to say that there are not cases
+          requiring attention: it must be so in a large population; but there can be no
+          means taken by a landlord, or by those under him, that are not bestowed upon
+          that tenantry.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"It has been said that the contribution by the heritor (the
+          duke) to one kirk session for the poor was but six pounds. Now, in the eight
+          parishes which are called Sutherland proper, the amount of the contribution of
+          the Duke of Sutherland to the kirk session is forty-two pounds a year. That is
+          a very small sum but that sum merely is so given because the landlord thinks
+          that he can distribute his charity in a more beneficial manner to the people;
+          and the amount of charity which he gives&mdash;and which, I may say, is settled
+          on them, for it is given regularly&mdash;is above four hundred and fifty pounds
+          a year.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Therefore the statements that have been made, so far from being
+          correct, are in every way an exaggeration of what is the fact. No portion of
+          the kingdom has advanced in prosperity so much; and if the honorable member
+          (Mr. S. Crawford) will go down there, I will give him every facility for seeing
+          the state of the people, and he shall judge with his own eyes whether my
+          representation be not correct. I could go through a great many other
+          particulars, but I will not trouble the house now with them. The statements I
+          have made are accurate, and I am quite ready to prove them in any way that is
+          necessary."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This same Mr. Loch has published a pamphlet, in which he has
+          traced out the effects of the system pursued on the Sutherland estate, in many
+          very important particulars. It appears from this that previously to 1811 the
+          people were generally sub-tenants to middle men, who exacted high rents, and
+          also various perquisites, such as the delivery of poultry and eggs, giving so
+          many days' labor in harvest time, cutting and carrying peat and stones for
+          building.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Since 1811 the people have become immediate tenants, at a
+          greatly diminished rate of rent, and released from all these exactions. For
+          instance, in two parishes, in 1812, the rents were one thousand five hundred
+          and ninety-three pounds, and in 1823 they were only nine hundred and
+          seventy-two pounds. In another parish the reduction of rents has amounted, on
+          an average, to thirty-six per cent. Previous to 1811 the houses were turf huts
+          of the poorest description, in many instances the cattle being kept under the
+          same roof with the family. Since 1811 a large proportion, of their houses have
+          been rebuilt in a superior manner&mdash;the landlord having paid them for their
+          old timber where it could not be moved, and having also contributed the new
+          timber, with lime.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before 1811 all the rents of the estates were used for the
+          personal profit of the landlord; but since that time, both by the present duke
+          and his father, all the rents have been expended on improvements in the county,
+          besides sixty thousand pounds more which have been remitted from. England for
+          the purpose. This money has been spent on churches, school houses, harbors,
+          public inns, roads, and bridges.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In 1811 there was not a carriage road in the county, and only
+          two bridges. Since that time four hundred and thirty miles of road have been
+          constructed on the estate, at the expense of the proprietor and tenants. There
+          is not a turnpike gate in the county, and yet the roads are kept perfect.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before 1811 the mail was conveyed entirely by a foot runner, and
+          there was but one post office in the county; and there was no direct post
+          across the county, but letters to the north and west were forwarded once a
+          month. A mail coach has since been established, to which the late Duke of
+          Sutherland contributed more than two thousand six hundred pounds; and since
+          1834 mail gigs have been established to convey letters to the north and west
+          coast, towards which the Duke of Sutherland contributes three hundred pounds a
+          year. There are thirteen post offices and sub-offices in the county. Before
+          1811 there was no inn in the county fit for the reception of strangers. Since
+          that time there have been fourteen inns either built or enlarged by the
+          duke.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before 1811 there was scarcely a cart on the estate; all the
+          carriage was done on the backs of ponies. The cultivation of the interior was
+          generally executed with a rude kind of spade, and there was not a gig in the
+          county. In 1845 there were one thousand one hundred and thirty carts owned on
+          the estate, and seven hundred and eight ploughs, also forty-one gigs.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before 1812 there was no baker, and only two shops. In 1845
+          there were eight bakers and forty-six grocer's shops, in nearly all of which
+          shoe blacking was sold to some extent, an unmistakable evidence of advancing
+          civilization.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In 1808 the cultivation of the coast side of Sutherland was so
+          defective that it was necessary often, in a fall of snow, to cut down the young
+          Scotch firs to feed the cattle on; and in 1808 hay had to be imported.
+          <em>Now</em> the coast side of Sutherland exhibits an extensive district of
+          land cultivated according to the best principles of modern agriculture; several
+          thousand acres have been added to the arable land by these improvements.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before 1811 there were no woodlands of any extent on the estate,
+          and timber had to be obtained from a distance. Since that time many thousand
+          acres of woodland have been planted, the thinnings of which, being sold to the
+          people at a moderate rate, have greatly increased their comfort and improved
+          their domestic arrangements.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before 1811 there were only two blacksmiths in the county. In
+          1845 there were forty-two blacksmiths and sixty-three carpenters. Before 1829
+          the exports of the county consisted of black cattle of an inferior description,
+          pickled salmon, and some ponies; but these were precarious sources of profit,
+          as many died in winter for want of food; for example, in the spring of 1807 two
+          hundred cows, five hundred cattle, and more than two hundred ponies died in the
+          parish of Kildonan alone. Since that time the measures pursued by the Duke of
+          Sutherland, in introducing improved breeds of cattle, pigs, and modes of
+          agriculture, have produced results in exports which tell their own story. About
+          forty thousand sheep and one hundred and eighty thousand fleeces of wool are
+          exported annually; also fifty thousand barrels of herring.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The whole fishing village of Helmsdale has been built since that
+          time. It now contains from thirteen to fifteen curing yards covered with slate,
+          and several streets with houses similarly built. The herring fishery, which has
+          been mentioned as so productive, has been established since the change, and
+          affords employment to three thousand nine hundred people.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Since 1811, also, a savings bank has been established in every
+          parish, of which the Duke of Sutherland is patron and treasurer, and the
+          savings have been very considerable.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The education of the children of the people has been a subject
+          of deep interest to the Duke of Sutherland. Besides the parochial schools,
+          (which answer, I suppose, to our district schools,) of which the greater number
+          have been rebuilt or repaired at an expense exceeding what is legally required
+          for such purposes, the Duke of Sutherland contributes to the support of several
+          schools for young females, at which sewing and other branches of education are
+          taught; and in 1844 he agreed to establish twelve general assembly schools in
+          such parts of the county as were without the sphere of the parochial schools,
+          and to build school and schoolmasters' houses, which will, upon an average,
+          cost two hundred pounds each; and to contribute annually two hundred pounds in
+          aid of salaries to the teachers, besides a garden and cows' grass; and in 1845
+          he made an arrangement with the education committee of the Free church, whereby
+          no child, of whatever persuasion, will be beyond the reach of moral and
+          religious education.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There are five medical gentlemen on the estate, three of whom
+          receive allowances from the Duke of Sutherland for attendance on the poor in
+          the districts in which they reside.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">An agricultural association, or farmers' club, has been formed
+          under the patronage of the Duke of Sutherland, of which the other proprietors
+          in the county, and the larger tenantry, are members, which is in a very active
+          and flourishing state. They have recently invited Professor Johnston to visit
+          Sutherland, and give lectures on agricultural chemistry.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The total population of the Sutherland estate is twenty-one
+          thousand seven hundred and eighty-four. To have the charge and care of so large
+          an estate, of course, must require very systematic arrangements; but a talent
+          for system seems to be rather the forte of the English.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The estate is first divided into three districts, and each
+          district is under the superintendence of a factor, who communicates with the
+          duke through a general agent. Besides this, when the duke is on the estate,
+          which is during a portion of every year, he receives on Monday whoever of his
+          tenants wishes to see him. Their complaints or wishes are presented in writing;
+          he takes them into consideration, and gives written replies.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Besides the three factors there is a ground officer, or
+          sub-factor, in every parish, and an agriculturist in the Dunrobin district, who
+          gives particular attention to instructing the people in the best methods of
+          farming. The factors, the ground officers, and the agriculturists all work to
+          one common end. They teach the advantages of draining; of ploughing deep, and
+          forming their ridges in straight lines; of constructing tanks for saving liquid
+          manure. The young farmers also pick up a great deal of knowledge when working
+          as ploughmen or laborers on the more immediate grounds of the estate.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The head agent, Mr. Loch, has been kind enough to put into my
+          hands a general report of the condition of the estate, which he drew up for the
+          inspection of the duke, May 12, 1853, and in which he goes minutely over the
+          condition of every part of the estate.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One anecdote of the former Duke of Sutherland will show the
+          spirit which has influenced the family in their management of the estate. In
+          1817, when there was much suffering on account of bad seasons, the Duke of
+          Sutherland sent down his chief agent to look into the condition of the people,
+          who desired the ministers of the parishes to send in their lists of the poor.
+          To his surprise it was found that there were located on the estate a number of
+          people who had settled there without leave. They amounted to four hundred and
+          eight families, or two thousand persons; and though they had no legal title to
+          remain where they were, no hesitation was shown in supplying them with food in
+          the same manner with those who were tenants, on the sole condition that on the
+          first opportunity they should take cottages on the sea shore, and become
+          industrious people. It was the constant object of the duke to keep the rents of
+          his poorer tenants at a nominal amount.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">What led me more particularly to inquire into these facts was,
+          that I received by mail, while in London, an account containing some of these
+          stories, which had been industriously circulated in America. There were
+          dreadful accounts of cruelties practised in the process of inducing the tenants
+          to change their places of residence. The following is a specimen of these
+          stories:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="display">
+            <p class="noindent">"I was present at the pulling down and burning of the
+            house of William Chisholm, Badinloskin, in which was lying his wife's mother,
+            an old, bed-ridden woman of near one hundred years of age, none of the family
+            being present. I informed the persons about to set fire to the house of this
+            circumstance, and prevailed on them to wait till Mr. Sellar came. On his
+            arrival I told him of the poor old woman being in a condition unfit for
+            removal. He replied, 'Damn her, the old witch, she has lived too long; let
+            her burn.' Fire was immediately set to the house, and the blankets in which
+            she was carried were in flames before she could be got out. She was placed in
+            a little shed, and it was with great difficulty they were prevented from
+            firing that also. The old woman's daughter arrived while the house was on
+            fire, and assisted the neighbors in removing her mother out of the flames and
+            smoke, presenting a picture of horror which I shall never forget, but cannot
+            attempt to describe. She died within five days."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">With regard to this story Mr. Loch, the agent, says, "I
+          must notice the only thing like a fact stated in the newspaper extract which
+          you sent to me, wherein Mr. Sellar is accused of acts of cruelty towards some
+          of the people. This Mr. Sellar tested, by bringing an action against the then
+          sheriff substitute of the county. He obtained a verdict for heavy damages. The
+          sheriff, by whom, the slander was propagated, left the county. Both are since
+          dead."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Having, through Lord Shaftesbury's kindness, received the
+          benefit of Mr. Loch's corrections to this statement, I am permitted to make a
+          little further extract from his reply. He says,&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"In addition to what I was able to say in my former paper, I can
+          now state that the Duke of Sutherland has received, from, one of the most
+          determined opposers of the measure, who travelled to the north of Scotland as
+          editor of a newspaper, a letter regretting all he had written on the subject,
+          being convinced that he was entirely misinformed. As you take so much interest
+          in the subject, I will conclude by saying that nothing could exceed the
+          prosperity of the county during the past year; their stock, sheep, and other
+          things sold at high prices; their crops of grain and turnips were never so
+          good, and the potatoes were free from all disease; rents have been paid better
+          than was ever known. * * * As an instance of the improved habits of the
+          farmers, no house is now built for them that they do not require a hot bath and
+          water closets."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From this long epitome you can gather the following results;
+          first, if the system were a bad one, the Duchess of Sutherland had nothing to
+          do with it, since it was first introduced in 1806, the same year her grace was
+          born; and the accusation against Mr. Sellar dates in 1811, when her grace was
+          five or six years old. The Sutherland arrangements were completed in 1819, and
+          her grace was not married to the duke till 1823, so that, had the arrangement
+          been the worst in the world, it is nothing to the purpose so far as she is
+          concerned.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to whether the arrangement <em>is</em> a bad one, the facts
+          which have been stated speak for themselves. To my view it is an almost sublime
+          instance of the benevolent employment of superior wealth and power in
+          shortening the struggles of advancing civilization, and elevating in a few
+          years a whole community to a point of education and material prosperity, which,
+          unassisted, they might never have obtained.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_35" name="toc_35"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XVIII</h2>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">London</span>, Sunday, May 8.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          S.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. S. is very unwell, in bed, worn out with, the threefold
+          labor of making and receiving calls, visiting, and delivering public addresses.
+          C. went to hear Dr. McNeile, of Liverpool, preach&mdash;one of the leading men
+          of the established church evangelical party, a strong millenarian. C. said that
+          he was as fine a looking person in canonicals as he ever saw in the pulpit. In
+          doctrine he is what we in America should call very strong old school. I went,
+          as I had always predetermined to do, if ever I came to London, to hear Baptist
+          Noel, drawn thither by the melody and memory of those beautiful hymns of his<a
+          href="#note_14"><span class="footnoteref">14</span></a>, which must meet a
+          response in every Christian heart. He is tall and well formed, with one of the
+          most classical and harmonious heads I ever saw. Singularly enough, he reminded
+          me of a bust of Achilles at the London Museum. He is indeed a swift-footed
+          Achilles, but in another race, another warfare. Born of a noble family,
+          naturally endowed with sensitiveness and ideality to appreciate all the
+          amenities and suavities of that brilliant sphere, the sacrifice must have been
+          inconceivably great for him to renounce favor and preferment, position in
+          society,&mdash;which, here in England, means more than Americans can ever dream
+          of,&mdash;to descend from being a court chaplain, to become a preacher in a
+          Baptist dissenting chapel. Whatever may be thought of the correctness of the
+          intellectual conclusions which led him to such a step, no one can fail to
+          revere the strength and purity of principle which could prompt to such
+          sacrifices. Many, perhaps, might have preferred that he should have chosen a
+          less decided course. But if his judgment really led to these results, I see no
+          way in which it was possible for him to have avoided it. It was with an emotion
+          of reverence that I contrasted the bareness, plainness, and poverty of the
+          little chapel with that evident air of elegance and cultivation which appeared
+          in all that he said and did. The sermon was on the text, "Now abideth faith,
+          hope, and charity, these three." Naturally enough, the subject divided itself
+          into faith, hope, and charity.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">His style calm, flowing, and perfectly harmonious, his delivery
+          serene and graceful, the whole flowed over one like a calm and clear strain of
+          music. It was a sermon after the style of Tholuck and other German sermonizers,
+          who seem to hold that the purpose of preaching is not to rouse the soul by an
+          antagonistic struggle with sin through the reason, but to soothe the passions,
+          quiet the will, and bring the mind into a frame in which it shall incline to
+          follow its own convictions of duty. They take for granted, that the reason why
+          men sin is not because they are ignorant, but because they are distracted and
+          tempted by passion; that they do not need so much to be told what is their
+          duty, as persuaded to do it. To me, brought up on the very battle field of
+          controversial theology, accustomed to hear every religious idea guarded by
+          definitions, and thoroughly hammered on a logical anvil before the preacher
+          thought of making any use of it for heart or conscience, though I enjoyed the
+          discourse extremely, I could not help wondering what an American theological
+          professor would make of such a sermon.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To preach on faith, hope, and charity all in one
+          discourse&mdash;why, we should have six sermons on the nature of faith to begin
+          with: on speculative faith; saving faith; practical faith, and the faith of
+          miracles; then we should have the laws of faith, and the connection of faith
+          with evidence, and the nature of evidence, and the different kinds of evidence,
+          and so on. For my part I have had a suspicion since I have been here, that a
+          touch of this kind of thing might improve English preaching; as, also, I do
+          think that sermons of the kind I have described would be useful, by way of
+          alterative, among us. If I could have but one of the two manners, I should
+          prefer our own, because I think that this habit of preaching is one of the
+          strongest educational forces that forms the mind of our country.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After the service was over I went into the vestry, and was
+          introduced to Mr. Noel. The congregation of the established church, to which he
+          ministered during his connection with it, are still warmly attached to him. His
+          leaving them was a dreadful trial; some of them can scarcely mention his name
+          without tears. C. says, with regard to the church singing, as far as he heard
+          it, it is twenty years behind that in Boston. In the afternoon I staid at home
+          to nurse Mr. S. A note from Lady John Russell inviting us there.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Monday, May 9. I should tell you that at the Duchess of
+          Sutherland's an artist, named Burnard, presented me with a very fine cameo head
+          of Wilberforce, cut from a statue in Westminster Abbey. He is from Cornwall, in
+          the south of England, and has attained some celebrity as an artist. He wanted
+          to take a bust of me; and though it always makes me laugh to think of having a
+          new likeness, considering the melancholy results of all former enterprises, yet
+          still I find myself easy to be entreated, in hopes, as Mr. Micawber says, that
+          something may "turn up," though I fear the difficulty is radical in the
+          subject. So I made an appointment with Mr. Burnard, and my very kind friend,
+          Mr. B., in addition to all the other confusions I have occasioned in his
+          mansion, consented to have his study turned into a studio. Upon the heels of
+          this comes another sculptor, who has a bust begun, which he says is going to be
+          finished in Parian, and published whether I sit for it or not, though, of
+          course, he would much prefer to get a look at me now and then. Well, Mr. B.
+          says he may come, too; so there you may imagine me in the study, perched upon a
+          very high stool, dividing my glances between the two sculptors, one of whom, is
+          taking one side of my face, and one the other.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To-day I went with Mr. and Mrs. B. to hear the examination of a
+          borough-school for boys. Mrs. B. told me it was not precisely a charity school,
+          but one where the means of education were furnished at so cheap a rate, that
+          the poorest classes could enjoy them. Arrived at the hall, we found quite a
+          number of <em>distingu&eacute;s</em>, bishops, lords, and clergy, besides
+          numbers of others assembled to hear. The room was hung round with the drawings
+          of the boys, and specimens of handwriting. I was quite astonished at some of
+          them. They were executed by pen, pencil, or crayon&mdash;drawings of machinery,
+          landscapes, heads, groups, and flowers, all in a style which any parent among
+          us would be proud to exhibit, if done by our own children. The boys looked very
+          bright and intelligent, and I was delighted with the system, of instruction
+          which had evidently been pursued with them. We heard them first in the reading
+          and recitation of poetry; after that in arithmetic and algebra, then in natural
+          philosophy, and last, and most satisfactorily, in the Bible. It was perfectly
+          evident from the nature of the questions and answers, that it was not a crammed
+          examination, and that the readiness of reply proceeded not from a mere
+          commitment of words, but from a system of intellectual training, which led to a
+          good understanding of the subject. In arithmetic and algebra the answers were
+          so remarkable as to induce the belief in some that the boys must have been
+          privately prepared on their questions; but the teacher desired Lord John
+          Russell to write down any number of questions which he wished to have given to
+          the toys to solve, from his own mind. Lord John wrote down two or three
+          problems, and I was amused at the zeal and avidity with which the boys seized
+          upon and mastered them. Young England was evidently wide awake, and the prime
+          minister himself was not to catch them, napping. The little fellows'
+          eyes-glistened as they rattled off their solutions. As I know nothing about
+          mathematics, I was all the more impressed; but when they came to be examined in
+          the Bible, I was more astonished than ever. The masters had said that they
+          would be willing any of the gentlemen should question them, and Mr. B.
+          commenced a course of questions on the doctrines of Christianity; asking, Is
+          there any text by which you can prove this, or that? and immediately, with
+          great accuracy, the boys would cite text upon text, quoting not only the more
+          obvious ones, but sometimes applying Scripture with an ingenuity and force
+          which I had not thought of, and always quoting chapter and verse of every text.
+          I do not know who is at the head of this teaching, nor how far it is a sample
+          of English schools; but I know that these boys had been wonderfully well
+          taught, and I felt all my old professional enthusiasm arising.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After the examination Lord John came forward, and gave the boys
+          a good fatherly talk. He told them that they had the happiness to live under a
+          free government, where all offices are alike open to industry and merit, and
+          where any boy might hope by application and talent to rise to any station below
+          that of the sovereign. He made some sensible, practical comments, on their
+          Scripture lessons, and, in short, gave precisely such a kind of address as one
+          of our New England judges or governors might to schoolboys in similar
+          circumstances. Lord John hesitates a little in his delivery, but has a plain,
+          common-sense way of "speaking right on," which seems to be taking. He is a very
+          simple man in his manners, apparently not at all self-conscious, and entered
+          into the feelings of the boys and the masters with good-natured sympathy, which
+          was very winning. I should think he was one of the kind of men who are always
+          perfectly easy and self-possessed let what will come, and who never could be
+          placed in a situation in which he did not feel himself quite at home, and
+          perfectly competent to do whatever was to be done.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To-day the Duchess of Sutherland called with the Duchess of
+          Argyle. Miss Greenfield happened to be present, and I begged leave to present
+          her, giving a slight sketch of her history. I was pleased with the kind and
+          easy affability with which the Duchess of Sutherland conversed with her,
+          betraying by no inflection of voice, and nothing in air or manner, the great
+          lady talking with the poor girl. She asked all her questions with as much
+          delicacy, and made her request to hear her sing with as much consideration and
+          politeness, as if she had been addressing any one in her own circle. She seemed
+          much pleased with her singing, and remarked that she should be happy to give
+          her an opportunity of performing in Stafford House, so soon as she should be a
+          little relieved of a heavy cold which seemed to oppress her at present. This,
+          of course, will be decisive in her favor in London. The duchess is to let us
+          know when the arrangement is completed.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I never realized so much that there really is no natural
+          prejudice against color in the human mind. Miss Greenfield is a dark
+          mulattress, of a pleasing and gentle face, though by no means handsome. She is
+          short and thick set, with a chest of great amplitude, as one would think on
+          hearing her tenor. I have never seen in any of the persons to whom I have
+          presented her the least indications of suppressed surprise or disgust, any more
+          than we should exhibit on the reception of a dark-complexioned Spaniard or
+          Portuguese. Miss Greenfield bears her success with much quietness and good
+          sense.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Tuesday, May 10. C. and I were to go to-day, with Mrs. Cropper
+          and Lady Hatherton, to call on the poet Rogers. I was told that he was in very
+          delicate health, but that he still received friends at his house. We found the
+          house a perfect cabinet collection of the most rare and costly works of
+          art&mdash;choicest marbles, vases, pictures, gems, and statuary met the eye
+          every where. We spent the time in examining some of these while the servant
+          went to announce us. The mild and venerable old man himself was the choicest
+          picture of all. He has a splendid head, a benign face, and reminded me of an
+          engraving I once saw of Titian. He seemed very glad to see us, spoke to me of
+          the gathering at Stafford House, and asked me what I thought of the place. When
+          I expressed my admiration, he said, "Ah, I have often said it is a fairy
+          palace, and that the duchess is the good fairy." Again, he said, "I have seen
+          all the palaces of Europe, but there is none that I prefer to this." Quite a
+          large circle of friends now came in and were presented. He did not rise to
+          receive them, but sat back in his easy chair, and conversed quietly with us
+          all, sparkling out now and then in a little ripple of playfulness. In this room
+          were his best beloved pictures, and it is his pleasure to show them to his
+          friends.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">By a contrivance quite new to me, the pictures are made to
+          revolve on a pivot, so that by touching a spring they move out from the wall,
+          and can be seen in different lights. There was a picture over the mantel-piece
+          of a Roman Triumphal Procession, painted by Rubens, which attracted my
+          attention by its rich coloring and spirited representation of animals.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The coloring of Rubens always satisfies my eye better than that
+          of any other master, only a sort of want of grace in the conception disturbs
+          me. In this case both conception and coloring are replete with beauty. Rogers
+          seems to be carefully waited on by an attendant who has learned to interpret
+          every motion and anticipate every desire.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I took leave of him with a touch of sadness. Of all the
+          brilliant circle of poets, which has so delighted us, he is the last&mdash;and
+          he so feeble! His memories, I am told, extend back to a personal knowledge of
+          Dr. Johnson. How I should like to sit by him, and search into that cabinet of
+          recollections! He presented me his poems, beautifully illustrated by Turner,
+          with his own autograph on the fly leaf. He writes still a clear, firm,
+          beautiful hand, like a lady's.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After that, we all went over to Stafford House, and the Duke and
+          Duchess of Sutherland went with us into Lord Ellesmere's collection adjoining.
+          Lord Ellesmere sails for America to-day, to be present at the opening of the
+          Crystal Palace. He left us a very polite message. The Duchess of Argyle, with
+          her two little boys, was there also. Lord Carlisle very soon came in, and with
+          him&mdash;who do you think? Tell Hattie and Eliza if they could have seen the
+          noble staghound that came bounding in with him, they would have turned from all
+          the pictures on the wall to this living work of art.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Landseer thinks he does well when he paints a dog; another man
+          chisels one in stone: what would they think of themselves if they could string
+          the nerves and muscles, and wake up the affections and instincts, of the real,
+          living creature? That were to be an artist indeed! The dog walked about the
+          gallery, much at home, putting his nose up first to one and then another of the
+          distinguished persons by whom he was surrounded; and once in a while stopping,
+          in an easy race about the hall, would plant himself before a picture, with his
+          head on one side, and an air of high-bred approval, much as I have seen young
+          gentlemen do in similar circumstances. All he wanted was an eyeglass, and he
+          would have been perfectly set up as a critic.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As for the pictures, I have purposely delayed coming to them.
+          Imagine a botanist dropped into the middle of a blooming prairie, waving with
+          unnumbered dyes and forms of flowers, and only an hour to examine and make
+          acquaintance with them! Room, after room we passed, filled with Titians,
+          Murillos, Guidos, &amp;c. There were four Raphaels, the first I had ever seen.
+          Must I confess the truth? Raphael had been my dream for years. I expected
+          something which would overcome and bewilder me. I expected a divine baptism, a
+          celestial mesmerism; and I found four very beautiful pictures&mdash;pictures
+          which left me quite in possession of my senses, and at liberty to ask myself,
+          am I pleased, and how much? It was not that I did not admire, for I did; but
+          that I did not admire enough. The pictures are all holy families, cabinet size:
+          the figures, Mary, Joseph, the infant Jesus, and John, in various attitudes. A
+          little perverse imp in my heart suggested the questions, "If a modern artist
+          had painted these, what would be thought of them? If I did not know it was
+          Raphael, what should I think?" And I confess that, in that case, I should think
+          that there was in one or two of them a certain hardness and sharpness of
+          outline that was not pleasing to me. Neither, any more than Murillo, has he in
+          these pictures shadowed forth, to my eye, the idea of Mary. Protestant as I am,
+          no Catholic picture contents me. I thought to myself that I had seen among
+          living women, and in a face not far off, a nobler and sweeter idea of
+          womanhood.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is too much to ask of any earthly artist, however, to gratify
+          the aspirations and cravings of those who have dreamed of them for years
+          unsatisfied. Perhaps no earthly canvas and brash can accomplish this marvel. I
+          think the idealist must lay aside his highest ideal, and be satisfied he shall
+          never meet it, and then he will begin to enjoy. With this mood and
+          understanding I did enjoy very much an Assumption of the Virgin, by Guido, and
+          more especially Diana and her Nymphs, by Titian: in this were that softness of
+          outline, and that blending of light and shadow into each other, of which I felt
+          the want in the Raphaels. I felt as if there was a perfection of cultivated art
+          in this, a classical elegance, which, so far as it went, left the eye or mind
+          nothing to desire. It seemed to me that Titian was a Greek painter, the painter
+          of an etherealized sensuousness, which leaves the spiritual nature wholly
+          unmoved, and therefore all that he attempts he attains. Raphael, on the
+          contrary, has spiritualism; his works enter a sphere where at is more difficult
+          to satisfy the soul; nay, perhaps from the nature of the case, impossible.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were some glorious pieces of sunshine by Cuyp. There was a
+          massive sea piece by Turner, in which the strong solemn swell of the green
+          waves, and the misty wreathings of clouds, were powerfully given.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There was a highly dramatic piece, by Paul de la Roche,
+          representing Charles I. in a guard room, insulted by the soldiery. He sits,
+          pale, calm, and resolute, while they are puffing tobacco smoke in his face, and
+          passing vulgar jokes. His thoughts appear to be far away, his eyes looking
+          beyond them with an air of patient, proud weariness.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Independently of the pleasure one receives from particular
+          pictures in these galleries, there is a general exaltation, apart from,
+          critical considerations, an excitement of the nerves, a kind of dreamy state,
+          which is a gain in our experience. Often in a landscape we first single out
+          particular objects,&mdash;this old oak,&mdash;that cascade,&mdash;that
+          ruin,&mdash;and derive from them, an individual joy; then relapsing, we view
+          the landscape as a whole, and seem, to be surrounded by a kind of atmosphere of
+          thought, the result of the combined influence of all. This state, too, I think
+          is not without its influence in educating the &aelig;sthetic sense.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Even in pictures which we comparatively reject, because we see
+          them, in the presence of superior ones, there is a wealth of beauty which would
+          grow on us from day to day, could we see them, often. When I give a sigh to the
+          thought that in our country we are of necessity, to a great extent, shut from
+          the world of art, I then rejoice in the inspiriting thought that Nature is ever
+          the superior. No tree painting can compare with a splendid elm, in the
+          plenitude of its majesty. There are colorings beyond those of Rubens poured
+          forth around us in every autumn scene; there are Murillos smiling by our
+          household firesides; and as for Madonnas and Venuses, I think with
+          Byron,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"I've seen more splendid women, ripe and real,</p>
+            <p class="l">Than all the nonsense of their stone ideal."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Still, I long for the full advent of our American, day of
+          art, already dawning auspiciously.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After finishing our inspection, we went back to Stafford House
+          to lunch.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening we went to Lord John Russell's. We found Lady
+          Russell and her daughters sitting quietly around the evening lamp, quite by
+          themselves. She is elegant and interesting in her personal appearance, and has
+          the same charm of simplicity and sincerity of manner which we have found in so
+          marry of the upper sphere. She is the daughter of the Earl of Minto, and the
+          second wife of Lord John. We passed here an entirely quiet and domestic
+          evening, with only the family circle. The conversation turned on various topics
+          of practical benevolence, connected with the care and education of the poorer
+          classes. Allusion being made to Mrs. Tyler's letter, Lady Russell expressed
+          some concern lest the sincere and well-intended expression of the feeling of
+          the English ladies might have done harm. I said that I did not think the spirit
+          of Mrs. Tyler's letter was to be taken as representing the feeling of American
+          ladies generally,&mdash;only of that class who are determined to maintain the
+          rightfulness of slavery.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It seems to me that the better and more thinking part of the
+          higher classes in England have conscientiously accepted the responsibility
+          which the world has charged upon them of elevating and educating the poorer
+          classes. In every circle since I have been here in England, I have heard the
+          subject discussed as one of paramount importance.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One or two young gentlemen dropped in in the course of the
+          evening, and the discourse branched out on the various topics of the day; such
+          as the weather, literature, art, spiritual rappings, and table turnings, and
+          all the floating et ceteras of life. Lady Russell apologized for the absence of
+          Lord John in Parliament, and invited us to dine with, them at their residence
+          in Richmond Park next week, when there is to be a parliamentary recess.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We left about ten o'clock, and went to pass the night with our
+          friends Mr. and Mrs. Cropper at their hotel, being engaged to breakfast at the
+          West End in the morning.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center">End of Volume I</p>
+        </div>
+      </div>
+      <hr class="doublepage" />
+      <div class="back">
+        <div class="div" id="footnotes">
+          <a id="toc_36" name="toc_36"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Notes</h2>
+          <dl class="footnote">
+            <dt><a id="note_1" name="note_1">1.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">Since my return to the United States I have been
+              informed that the Freewill Baptist denomination have adopted the same rigid
+              principle of slavery exclusion that characterizes the Scotch Seceders and
+              the Quakers. Let this be known to their honor.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_2" name="note_2">2.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">This venerated, and erudite jurist, the friend and
+              biographer of the celebrated Lord Jeffrey, has recently died.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_3" name="note_3">3.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">This, alas! is no longer true. By the recent passage of
+              the infamous Nebraska bill, this whole region, with the exception of two
+              states already organized, is laid open to slavery. This faithless measure
+              was nobly resisted by a large and able minority in Congress&mdash;honor to
+              them.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_4" name="note_4">4.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">This most learned and amiable judge recently died,
+              while in the very act of charging a jury.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_5" name="note_5">5.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">This resolution, drawn and offered, I think, by my
+              hospitable friend, Mr. Binney, I have mislaid, and cannot find it. It was,
+              however, in character and spirit, just what Mr. James here declares it to
+              be.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_6" name="note_6">6.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">I have been told since my return, that there are some
+              slaveholding Congregational churches in the south; but they have no
+              connection with our New England churches, and certainly are not generally
+              known as Congregationalists distinct from the Presbyterians.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_7" name="note_7">7.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">This has always been supposed and claimed in the United
+              States. Now the time has come to test its truth. If there is this
+              antislavery feeling in nine tenths of the people, the impudent iniquity of
+              the Nebraska bill will call it forth.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_8" name="note_8">8.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">Eight years ago I conscientiously approved and
+              zealously defended this course of the American Board. Subsequent events
+              have satisfied me, that, in the present circumstances of our country,
+              making concessions to slaveholders, however slightly, and with whatever
+              motives, even if not wrong in principle, is productive of no good. It does
+              but strengthen slavery, and makes its demands still more exorbitant, and
+              neutralizes the power of gospel truth.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_9" name="note_9">9.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">This state of things is fast changing. Church members
+              at the south now defend slavery as right. This is a new thing.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_10" name="note_10">10.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">When your chimney has smoked as long as ours, it will,
+              may be, need sweeping too.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_11" name="note_11">11.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">Had I known all about New York and Boston which recent
+              examinations have developed, I should have answered very differently. The
+              fact is, that we in America can no longer congratulate ourselves on not
+              having a degraded and miserable class in our cities, and it will be seen to
+              be necessary for us to arouse to the very same efforts which, have been so
+              successfully making in England.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_12" name="note_12">12.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">This idea is beautifully wrought out by Mrs. Jamieson
+              in her Characteristics of the Women of Shakspeare, to which, the author is
+              indebted for the suggestion.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_13" name="note_13">13.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">James Russell Lowell's "Beaver Brook."</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_14" name="note_14">14.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">The hymns beginning with, these lines, "If human,
+              kindness meet return," and "Behold where, in a mortal form," are
+              specimens.</p>
+            </dd>
+          </dl>
+        </div>
+      </div>
+    </div>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS, VOLUME 1 ***</div>
+  </body>
+</html>
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #13945 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/13945)
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sunny Memories Of Foreign Lands, Volume 1
+(of 2), by Harriet Elizabeth (Beecher) Stowe
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Sunny Memories Of Foreign Lands, Volume 1 (of 2)
+
+Author: Harriet Elizabeth (Beecher) Stowe
+
+Release Date: November 4, 2004 [EBook #13945]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SUNNY MEMORIES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Joshua Hutchinson, Josephine Paolucci and the PG Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Transcriber's note: Footnotes moved to the end of the text]
+
+
+
+
+SUNNY MEMORIES
+
+OF
+
+FOREIGN LANDS.
+
+BY
+
+MRS. HARRIET BEECHER STOWE,
+
+AUTHOR OF "UNCLE TOM'S CABIN," ETC.
+
+  ... "When thou haply seest
+  Some rare note-worthy object in thy travels,
+  Make me partaker of thy happiness."
+
+  SHAKSPEARE.
+
+ILLUSTRATED FROM DESIGNS BY HAMMATT BILLINGS.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+VOL. I.
+
+BOSTON:
+PHILLIPS, SAMPSON, AND COMPANY.
+NEW YORK: J.C. DERBY.
+1854.
+
+
+Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by PHILLIPS,
+SAMPSON, AND COMPANY, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the
+District of Massachusetts.
+
+STEREOTYPED AT THE BOSTON STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY. WRIGHT AND HASTY,
+PRINTERS, NO. 3 WATER ST.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+This book will be found to be truly what its name denotes, "Sunny
+Memories."
+
+If the criticism be made that every thing is given _couleur de rose_,
+the answer is, Why not? They are the impressions, as they arose, of a
+most agreeable visit. How could they be otherwise?
+
+If there be characters and scenes that seem drawn with too bright a
+pencil, the reader will consider that, after all, there are many worse
+sins than a disposition to think and speak well of one's neighbors. To
+admire and to love may now and then be tolerated, as a variety, as well
+as to carp and criticize. America and England have heretofore abounded
+towards each other in illiberal criticisms. There is not an unfavorable
+aspect of things in the old world which has not become perfectly
+familiar to us; and a little of the other side may have a useful
+influence.
+
+The writer has been decided to issue these letters principally, however,
+by the persevering and deliberate attempts, in certain quarters, to
+misrepresent the circumstances which, are here given. So long as these
+misrepresentations affected only those who were predetermined to believe
+unfavorably, they were not regarded. But as they have had some
+influence, in certain cases, upon really excellent and honest people, it
+is desirable that the truth should be plainly told.
+
+The object of publishing these letters is, therefore, to give to those
+who are true-hearted and honest the same agreeable picture of life and
+manners which met the writer's own, eyes. She had in view a wide circle
+of friends throughout her own country, between whose hearts and her own
+there has been an acquaintance and sympathy of years, and who, loving
+excellence, and feeling the reality of it in themselves, are sincerely
+pleased to have their sphere of hopefulness and charity enlarged. For
+such this is written; and if those who are not such begin to read, let
+them treat the book as a letter not addressed to them, which, having
+opened by mistake, they close and pass to the true owner.
+
+The English reader is requested to bear in mind that the book has not
+been prepared in reference to an English but an American public, and to
+make due allowance for that fact. It would have placed the writer far
+more at ease had there been no prospect of publication in England. As
+this, however, was unavoidable, in some form, the writer has chosen to
+issue it there under her own sanction.
+
+There is one acknowledgment which the author feels happy to make, and
+that is, to those publishers in England, Scotland, France, and Germany
+who have shown a liberality beyond the requirements of legal obligation.
+The author hopes that the day is not far distant when America will
+reciprocate the liberality of other nations by granting to foreign
+authors those rights which her own receive from them.
+
+The _Journal_ which appears in the continental tour is from the pen of
+the Rev. C. Beecher. The _Letters_ were, for the most part, compiled
+from what was written at the time and on the spot. Some few were
+entirely written after the author's return.
+
+It is an affecting thought that several of the persons who appear in
+these letters as among the living, have now passed to the great future.
+The Earl of Warwick, Lord Cockburn, Judge Talfourd, and Dr. Wardlaw are
+no more among the ways of men. Thus, while we read, while we write, the
+shadowy procession is passing; the good are being gathered into life,
+and heaven enriched by the garnered treasures of earth.
+
+H.B.S.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY.
+
+LETTER I.
+The Voyage.
+
+LETTER II.
+Liverpool.--The Dingle.--A Ragged School.--Flowers.--Speke
+Hall.--Antislavery Meeting.
+
+LETTER III.
+Lancashire.--Carlisle.--Gretna Green.--Glasgow.
+
+LETTER IV.
+The Baillie.--The Cathedral.--Dr. Wardlaw.--A Tea Party--Bothwell
+Castle.--Chivalry.--Scott and Burns.
+
+LETTER V.
+Dumbarton Castle.--Duke of Argyle.--Linlithgow.--Edinburgh.
+
+LETTER VI.
+Public Soirée.--Dr. Guthrie.--Craigmiller Castle.--Bass
+Rock.--Bannockburn.--Stirling.--Glamis Castle.--Barclay of Ury.--The
+Dee.--Aberdeen.--The Cathedral.--Brig o'Balgounie.
+
+LETTER VII.
+Letter from a Scotch Bachelor.--Reformatory Schools of
+Aberdeen.--Dundee.--Dr. Dick.--The Queen in Scotland.
+
+LETTER VIII.
+Melrose.--Dry burgh.--Abbotsford.
+
+LETTER IX.
+Douglas of Caver.--Temperance Soirée.--Calls.--Lord Gainsborough.--Sir
+William Hamilton.--George Combe.--Visit to Hawthornden.--Roslin
+Castle.--The Quakers.--Hervey's Studio.--Grass Market.--Grayfriars'
+Churchyard.
+
+LETTER X.
+Birmingham.--Stratford on Avon.
+
+LETTER XI.
+Warwick.--Kenilworth.
+
+LETTER XII.
+Birmingham.--Sybil Jones.--J.A. James.
+
+LETTER XIII.
+London.--Lord Mayor's Dinner.
+
+LETTER XIV.
+London.--Dinner with Earl of Carlisle.
+
+LETTER XV.
+London.--Anniversary of Bible Society.--Dulwich Gallery.--Dinner with
+Mr. E. Cropper.--Soirée at Rev. Mr. Binney's.
+
+LETTER XVI.
+Reception at Stafford House.
+
+LETTER XVII.
+The Sutherland Estate.
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+Baptist Noel.--Borough School.--Rogers the Poet.--Stafford
+House.--Ellesmere Collection of Paintings.--Lord John Russell.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY
+
+
+The following letters were written by Mrs. Stowe for her own personal
+friends, particularly the members of her own family, and mainly as the
+transactions referred to in them occurred. During the tour in England
+and Scotland, frequent allusions are made to public meetings held on her
+account; but no report is made of the meetings, because that
+information, was given fully in the newspapers sent to her friends with
+the letters. Some knowledge of the general tone and spirit of the
+meetings seems necessary, in order to put the readers of the letters in
+as favorable a position to appreciate them as her friends were when they
+were received. Such knowledge it is the object of this introductory
+chapter to furnish.
+
+One or two of the addresses at each of several meetings I have given,
+and generally without alteration, as they appeared in the public
+journals at the time. Only a very few could be published without
+occupying altogether too much space; and those selected are for the most
+part the shortest, and chosen mainly on account of their brevity. This
+is certainly a surer method of giving a true idea, of the spirit which
+actually pervaded the meetings than could be accomplished by any
+selection of mere extracts from the several speeches. In that case,
+there might be supposed to exist a temptation to garble and make unfair
+representations; but in the method pursued, such a suspicion is scarcely
+possible. In relation to my own addresses, I have sometimes taken the
+liberty to correct the reporters by my own recollections and notes. I
+have also, in some cases, somewhat abridged them, (a liberty which I
+have not, to any considerable extent, ventured to take with others,)
+though without changing the sentiment, or even essentially the form, of
+expression. What I have here related is substantially what I actually
+said, and what I am willing to be held responsible for. Many and bitter,
+during the tour, were the misrepresentations and misstatements of a
+hostile press; to which I offer no other reply than the plain facts of
+the following pages. These were the sentiments uttered, this was the
+manner of their utterance; and I cheerfully submit them to the judgment
+of a candid public.
+
+I went to Europe without the least anticipation of the kind of reception
+which awaited us; it was all a surprise and an embarrassment to me. I
+went with the strongest love of my country, and the highest veneration
+for her institutions; I every where in Britain found the most cordial
+sympathy with this love and veneration; and I returned with both greatly
+increased. But slavery I do not recognize as an institution of my
+country; it is an excrescence, a vile usurpation, hated of God, and
+abhorred by man; I am under no obligation either to love or respect it.
+He is the traitor to America, and American institutions, who reckons
+slavery as one of them, and, as such, screens it from assault. Slavery
+is a blight, a canker, a poison, in the very heart of our republic; and
+unless the nation, as such, disengage itself from it, it will most
+assuredly be our ruin. The patriot, the philanthropist, the Christian,
+truly enlightened, sees no other alternative. The developments of the
+present session of our national Congress are making this great truth
+clearly perceptible even to the dullest apprehension.
+
+C.E. STOWE.
+
+ANDOVER, _May_ 30, 1854.
+
+
+
+
+BREAKFAST IN LIVERPOOL--APRIL 11.
+
+
+THE REV. DR. M'NEILE, who had been requested by the respected host to
+express to Mrs. Stowe the hearty congratulations of the first meeting of
+friends she had seen in England, thus addressed her: "Mrs. Stowe: I have
+been requested by those kind friends under whose hospitable roof we are
+assembled to give some expression to the sincere and cordial welcome
+with which, we greet your arrival in this country. I find real
+difficulty in making this attempt, not from want of matter, nor from
+want of feeling, but because it is not in the power of any language I
+can command, to give adequate expression to the affectionate enthusiasm
+which pervades all ranks of our community, and which is truly
+characteristic of the humanity and the Christianity of Great Britain. We
+welcome Mrs. Stowe as the honored instrument of that noble impulse which
+public opinion and public feeling throughout Christendom have received
+against the demoralizing and degrading system of human slavery. That
+system is still, unhappily, identified in the minds of many with the
+supposed material interests of society, and even with the well being of
+the slaves themselves; but the plausible arguments and ingenious
+sophistries by which it has been defended shrink with shame from the
+facts without exaggeration, the principles without compromise, the
+exposures without indelicacy, and the irrepressible glow of hearty
+feeling--O, how true to nature!--which characterize Mrs. Stowe's
+immortal book. Yet I feel assured that the effect produced by Uncle
+Tom's Cabin is not mainly or chiefly to be traced to the interest of the
+narrative, however captivating, nor to the exposures of the slave
+system, however withering: these would, indeed, be sufficient to produce
+a good effect; but this book contains more and better than even these;
+it contains what will never be lost sight of--the genuine application to
+the several branches of the subject of the sacred word of God. By no
+part of this wonderful work has my own mind been so permanently
+impressed as by the thorough legitimacy of the application of
+Scripture,--no wresting, no mere verbal adaptation, but in every
+instance the passage cited is made to illustrate something in the
+narrative, or in the development of character, in strictest accordance
+with the design of the passage in its original sacred context. We
+welcome Mrs. Stowe, then, as an honored fellow-laborer in the highest
+and best of causes; and I am much mistaken if this tone of welcome be
+not by far the most congenial to her own feelings. We unaffectedly
+sympathize with much which she must feel, and, as a lady, more
+peculiarly feel, in passing through that ordeal of gratulation which is
+sure to attend her steps in every part of our country; and I am
+persuaded that we cannot manifest our gratitude for her past services in
+any way more acceptable to herself than by earnest prayer on her behalf
+that she may be kept in the simplicity of Christ, enjoying in her daily
+experience the tender consolations of the Divine Spirit, and in the
+midst of the most flattering commendations saying and feeling, in the
+instincts of a renewed heart, 'Not unto me, O Lord, not unto me, but
+unto thy name be the praise, for thy mercy, and for thy truth's sake.'"
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE then rose, and said, "If we are silent, it is not
+because we do not feel, but because we feel more than we can express.
+When that book was written, we had no hope except in God. We had no
+expectation of reward save in the prayers of the poor. The surprising
+enthusiasm which has been excited by the book all over Christendom is an
+indication that God has a work to be done in the cause of emancipation.
+The present aspect of things in the United States is discouraging. Every
+change in society, every financial revolution, every political and
+ecclesiastical movement, seems to pass and leave the African race
+without help. Our only resource is prayer. God surely cannot will that
+the unhappy condition of this portion of his children should continue
+forever. There are some indications of a movement in the southern mind.
+A leading southern paper lately declared editorially that slavery is
+either right or wrong: if it is wrong, it is to be abandoned: if it is
+right, it must be defended. The _Southern Press_, a paper established to
+defend the slavery interest at the seat of government, has proposed that
+the worst features of the system, such as the separation of families,
+should be abandoned. But it is evident that with that restriction the
+system could not exist. For instance, a man wants to buy a cook; but she
+has a husband and seven children. Now, is he to buy a man and seven
+children, for whom he has no use, for the sake of having a cook? Nothing
+on the present occasion has been so grateful to our feelings as the
+reference made by Dr. M'Neile to the Christian character of the book.
+Incredible as it may seem to those who are without prejudice, it is
+nevertheless a fact that this book was condemned by some religious
+newspapers in the United States as anti-Christian, and its author
+associated with infidels and disorganizers; and had not it been for the
+decided expression of the mind of English Christians, and of Christendom
+itself, on this point, there is reason to fear that the proslavery power
+of the United States would have succeeded in putting the book under
+foot. Therefore it is peculiarly gratifying that so full an indorsement
+has been given the work, in this respect, by eminent Christians of the
+highest character in Europe; for, however some in the United States may
+affect to despise what is said by the wise and good of this kingdom and
+the Christian world, they do feel it, and feel it intensely." In answer
+to an inquiry by Dr. M'Neile as to the mode in which southern Christians
+defended the institution, Dr. Stowe remarked that "a great change had
+taken place in that respect during the last thirty years. Formerly all
+Christians united in condemning the system; but of late some have begun
+to defend it on scriptural grounds. The Rev. Mr. Smylie, of Mississippi,
+wrote a pamphlet in the defensive; and Professor Thornwell, of South
+Carolina, has published the most candid and able statement of that
+argument which has been given. Their main reliance is on the system of
+Mosaic servitude, wholly unlike though it was to the American system of
+slavery. As to what this American system of slavery is, the best
+documents for enlightening the minds of British Christians are the
+commercial newspapers of the slaveholding states. There you see slavery
+as it is, and certainly without any exaggeration. Read the
+advertisements for the sale of slaves and for the apprehension of
+fugitives, the descriptions of the persons of slaves, of dogs for
+hunting slaves, &c., and you see how the whole matter as viewed by the
+southern mind. Say what they will about it, practically they generally
+regard the separation of families no more than the separation of cattle,
+and the slaves as so much property, and nothing else. Their own papers
+show that the pictures of the internal slave trade given in Uncle Tom,
+so far from being overdrawn, fall even below the truth. Go on, then, in
+forming and expressing your views on this subject. In laboring for the
+overthrow of American slavery you are pursuing a course of Christian
+duty as legitimate as in laboring to suppress the suttees of India, the
+cannibalism of the Fejee Islands, and other barbarities of heathenism,
+of which human slavery is but a relic. These evils can be finally
+removed by the benign influence of the love of Christ, and no other
+power is competent to the work."
+
+
+PUBLIC MEETING IN LIVERPOOL--APRIL 13.
+
+The Chairman, (A. HODGSON, Esq.,) in opening the proceedings, thus
+addressed Mrs. Beecher Stowe: "The modesty of our English ladies, which,
+like your own, shrinks instinctively from unnecessary publicity, has
+devolved on me, as one of the trustees of the Liverpool Association, the
+gratifying office of tendering to you, at then request, a slight
+testimonial of their gratitude and respect. We had hoped almost to the
+last moment that Mrs. Cropper would have represented, on this day, the
+ladies with whom she has cooperated, and among whom she has taken a
+distinguished lead in the great work which you had the honor and the
+happiness to originate. But she has felt with you that the path most
+grateful and most congenial to female exertion, even in its widest and
+most elevated range, is still a retired and a shady path; and you have
+taught us that the voice which most effectually kindles enthusiasm in
+millions is the still small voice which comes forth from the sanctuary
+of a woman's breast, and from the retirement of a woman's closet--the
+simple but unequivocal expression of her unfaltering faith, and the
+evidence of her generous and unshrinking self-devotion. In the same
+spirit, and as deeply impressed with the retired character of female
+exertion, the ladies who have so warmly greeted your arrival in this
+country have still felt it entirely consistent with the most sensitive
+delicacy to make a public response to your appeal, and to hail with
+acclamation your thrilling protest against those outrages on our common
+nature which circumstances have forced on your observation. They engage
+in no political discussion, they embark in no public controversy; but
+when an intrepid sister appeals to the instincts of women of every color
+and of every clime against a system which sanctions the violation of the
+fondest affections and the disruption of the tenderest ties; which
+snatches the clinging wife from the agonized husband, and the child from
+the breast of its fainting mother; which leaves the young and innocent
+female a helpless and almost inevitable victim of a licentiousness
+controlled by no law and checked by no public opinion,--it is surely as
+feminine as it is Christian to sympathize with her in her perilous task,
+and to rejoice that she has shed such a vivid light on enormities which
+can exist only while unknown or unbelieved. We acknowledge with regret
+and shame that that fatal system was introduced into America by Great
+Britain; but having in our colonies returned from our devious paths, we
+may without presumption, in the spirit of friendly suggestion, implore
+our honored transatlantic friends to do the same. The ladies of Great
+Britain have been admonished by their fair sisters in America, (and I am
+sure they are bound to take the admonition in good part,) that there are
+social evils in our own country demanding our special vigilance and
+care. This is most true; but it is also true that the deepest sympathies
+and most strenuous efforts are directed, in the first instance, to the
+evils which exist among ourselves, and that the rays of benevolence
+which flash across the Atlantic are often but the indication of the
+intensity of the bright flame which is shedding light and heat on all in
+its immediate vicinity. I believe this is the case with most of those
+who have taken a prominent part in this great movement. I am sure it is
+preeminently the case with respect to many of those by whom you are
+surrounded; and I hardly know a more miserable fallacy, by which
+sensible men allow themselves to be deluded, than that which assumes
+that every emotion of sympathy which is kindled by objects abroad is
+abstracted from our sympathies at home. All experience points to a
+directly opposite conclusion; and surely the divine command, 'to go into
+all the world, and preach the gospel to every creature,' should put to
+shame and silence the specious but transparent selfishness which would
+contract the limits of human sympathy, and veil itself under the garb of
+superior sagacity. But I must not detain you by any further
+observations. Allow me, in the name of the associated ladies, to present
+you with this small memorial of great regard, and to tender to you their
+and my best wishes for your health and happiness while you are
+sojourning among us, for the blessing of God on your children during
+your absence, and for your safe return to your native country when your
+mission shall be accomplished. I have just been requested to state the
+following particulars: In December last, a few ladies met in this place
+to consider the best plan of obtaining signatures in Liverpool to an
+address to the women of America on the subject of negro slavery, in
+substance coinciding with the one so nobly proposed and carried forward
+by Lord Shaftesbury. At this meeting it was suggested that it would be a
+sincere gratification to many if some testimonial could be presented to
+Mrs. Stowe which would indicate the sense, almost universally
+entertained, that she had been the instrument in the hands of God of
+arousing the slumbering sympathies of this country in behalf of the
+suffering slave. It was felt desirable to render the expression of such
+a feeling as general as possible; and to effect this it was resolved
+that a subscription should be set on foot, consisting of contributions
+of one penny and upwards, with a view to raise a testimonial, to be
+presented to Mrs. Stowe by the ladies of Liverpool, as an expression of
+their grateful appreciation of her valuable services in the cause of the
+negro, and as a token of admiration for the genius and of high esteem
+for the philanthropy and Christian feeling which animate her great work,
+Uncle Tom's Cabin. It ought, perhaps, to be added, that some friends,
+not residents of Liverpool, have united in this tribute. As many of the
+ladies connected with the effort to obtain signatures to the address may
+not be aware of the whole number appended, they may be interested in
+knowing that they amounted in all to twenty-one thousand nine hundred
+and fifty-three. Of these, twenty thousand nine hundred and thirty-six
+were obtained by ladies in Liverpool, from their friends either in this
+neighborhood or at a distance; and one thousand and seventeen were sent
+to the committee in London from other parts, by those who preferred our
+form of address. The total number of signatures from all parts of the
+kingdom to Lord Shaftesbury's address was upwards of five hundred
+thousand."
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE then said, "On behalf of Mrs. Stowe I will read from her
+pen the response to your generous offering: 'It is impossible for me to
+express the feelings of my heart at the kind and generous manner in
+which I have been received upon English shores. Just when I had begun to
+realize that a whole wide ocean lay between me and all that is dearest
+to me, I found most unexpectedly a home and friends waiting to receive
+me here. I have had not an hour in which to know the heart of a
+stranger. I have been made to feel at home since the first moment of
+landing, and wherever I have looked I have seen only the faces of
+friends. It is with deep feeling that I have found myself on ground that
+has been consecrated and made holy by the prayers and efforts of those
+who first commenced the struggle for that sacred cause which has proved
+so successful in England, and which I have a solemn assurance will yet
+be successful in my own country. It is a touching thought that here so
+many have given all that they have, and are, in behalf of oppressed
+humanity. It is touching to remember that one of the noblest men which
+England has ever produced now lies stricken under the heavy hand of
+disease, through a last labor of love in this cause. May God grant us
+all to feel that nothing is too dear or precious to be given in a work
+for which such men have lived, and labored, and suffered. No great good
+is ever wrought out for the human race without the suffering of great
+hearts. They who would serve their fellow-men are ever reminded that the
+Captain of their salvation was made perfect through suffering. I
+gratefully accept the offering confided to my care, and trust it may be
+so employed that the blessing of many "who are ready to perish" will
+return upon your heads. Let me ask those--those fathers and mothers in
+Israel--who have lived and prayed many years for this cause, that as
+they prayed for their own country in the hour of her struggle, so they
+will pray now for ours. Love and prayer can hurt no one, can offend no
+one, and prayer is a real power. If the hearts of all the real
+Christians of England are poured out in prayer, it will be felt through
+the heart of the whole American church. Let us all look upward, from our
+own feebleness and darkness, to Him of whom it is said, "He shall not
+fail nor be discouraged till he have set judgment in the earth." To him,
+the only wise God our Saviour, be glory and majesty, dominion and power,
+both now and ever. Amen.'--These are the words, my friends, which Mrs.
+Stowe has written, and I cannot forbear to add a few words of my own. It
+was our intention, as the invitation to visit Great Britain came from
+Glasgow, to make our first landing there. But it was ordered by
+Providence that we should land here; and surely there is no place in the
+kingdom where a landing could be more appropriate, and where the
+reception could have been more cordial. [Hear, hear!] It was wholly
+unexpected by us, I can assure you. We know that there were friendly
+hearts here, for we had received abundant testimonials to that effect
+from letters which had come to us across the Atlantic--letters wholly
+unexpected, and which filled our souls with surprise; but we had no
+thought that there was such a feeling throughout England, and we
+scarcely know how to conduct ourselves under it, for we are not
+accustomed to this kind of receptions. In our own country, unhappily, we
+are very much divided, and the preponderance of feeling expressed is in
+the other direction, entirely in opposition, and not in favor. [Hear,
+hear!] We knew that this city had been the scene of some of the
+greatest, most disinterested, and most powerful efforts in behalf of
+emancipation. The name of Clarkson was indissolubly associated with this
+place, for here he came to make his investigations, and here he was in
+danger of his life, and here he was protected by friends who stood by
+him through the whole struggle. The names of Cropper, and of Stephen,
+and of many others in this city, were very familiar to us--[Hear,
+hear!]--and it was in connection with this city that we received what to
+our feelings was a most effective testimonial, an unexpected letter from
+Lord Denman, whom we have always venerated. When I was in England in
+1836, there were no two persons whom I more desired to see than the Duke
+of Wellington and Lord Denman; and soon I sought admission to the House
+of Lords, where I had the pleasure both of seeing and hearing England's
+great captain; and I found my way to the Court of Queen's Bench, where I
+had the pleasure of seeing and hearing England's great judge. But how
+unexpected was all this to us! When that book was written, in sorrow,
+and in sadness, and obscurity, and with the heart almost broken in the
+view of the sufferings which it described, and the still greater
+sufferings which it dared not describe, there was no expectation of any
+thing but the prayers of the sufferers and the blessing of God, who has
+said that the seed which is buried in the earth shall spring up in his
+own good time; and though it may be long buried, it will still at length
+come forth and bear fruit. We never could believe that slavery in our
+land would be a perpetual curse; but we felt, and felt deeply, that
+there must be a terrible struggle before we could be delivered from it,
+and that there must be suffering and martyrdom in this cause, as in
+every other great cause; for a struggle of eighteen years had taught us
+its strength. And, under God, we rely very much on the Christian public
+of Great Britain; for every expression of feeling from the wise and good
+of this land, with whatever petulance it may be met by some, goes to the
+heart of the American people. [Hear, hear!] You must not judge of the
+American people by the expressions which have come across the Atlantic
+in reference to the subject. Nine tenths of the American people, I
+think, are, in opinion at least, with you on this great subject; [Hear,
+hear!] but there is a tremendous pressure brought to bear upon all who
+are in favor of emancipation. The whole political power, the whole money
+power, almost the whole ecclesiastical power is wielded in defence of
+slavery, protecting it from all aggression; and it is as much as a man's
+reputation is worth to utter a syllable boldly and openly on the other
+side. Let me say to the ladies who have been active in getting up the
+address on the subject of slavery, that you have been doing a great and
+glorious work, and a work most appropriate for you to do; for in slavery
+it is woman that suffers most intensely, and the suffering woman has a
+claim upon the sympathy of her sisters in other lands. This address will
+produce a powerful impression throughout the country. There are ladies
+already of the highest character in the nation pondering how they shall
+make a suitable response, and what they shall do in reference to it that
+will be acceptable to the ladies of the United Kingdom, or will be
+profitable to the slave; and in due season you will see that the hearts
+of American women are alive to this matter, as well as the hearts of the
+women of this country. [Hear, hear!] Such was the mighty influence
+brought to bear upon every thing that threatened slavery, that had it
+not been for the decided expression on this side of the Atlantic in
+reference to the work which has exerted, under God, so much influence,
+there is every reason to fear that it would have been crushed and put
+under foot, as many other efforts for the overthrow of slavery have been
+in the United States. But it is impossible; the unanimous voice of
+Christendom prohibits it; and it shows that God has a work to
+accomplish, and that he has just commenced it. There are social evils in
+England. Undoubtedly there are; but the difference between the social
+evils in England and this great evil of slavery in the United States is
+just here: In England, the power of the government and the power of
+Christian sympathy are exerted for the removal of those evils. Look at
+the committees of inquiry in Parliament, look at the amount of
+information collected with regard to the suffering poor in their
+reports, and see how ready the government of Great Britain is to enter
+into those inquiries, and to remove those evils. Look at the benevolent
+institutions of the United Kingdom, and see how active all these are in
+administering relief; and then see the condition of slavery in the
+United States, where the whole power of the government is used in the
+contrary direction, where every influence is brought to bear to prevent
+any mitigation of the evil, and where every voice that is lifted to
+plead for a mitigation is drowned in vituperation and abuse from those
+who are determined that the evil shall not be mitigated. This is the
+difference: England repents and reforms. America refuses to repent and
+reform. It is said, 'Let each country take care of itself, and let the
+ladies of England attend to their own business.' Now I have always found
+that those who labor at home are those who labor abroad; [Hear, hear!]
+and those who say, 'Let us do the work at home,' are those who do no
+work of good either at home or abroad. [Hear, hear!] It was just so when
+the great missionary effort came up in the United States. They said, 'We
+have a great territory here. Let us send missionaries to our own
+territories. Why should we send missionaries across the ocean?' But
+those who sent missionaries across the ocean were those who sent
+missionaries in the United States; and those who did not send
+missionaries across the ocean were those who sent missionaries nowhere.
+[Hear, hear!] They who say, 'Charity begins at home,' are generally
+those who have no charity; and when I see a lady whose name is signed to
+this address, I am sure to find a lady who is exercising her benevolence
+at home. Let me thank you for all the interest you have manifested and
+for all the kindness which we have received at your hands, which we
+shall ever remember, both with gratitude to you and to God our Father."
+
+The REV. C.M. BIRRELL afterwards made a few remarks in proposing a vote
+of thanks to the ladies who had contributed the testimonial which had
+been presented to the distinguished writer of Uncle Tom's Cabin. He said
+it was most delightful to hear of the great good which that remarkable
+volume had done, and, he humbly believed, by God's special inspiration
+and guidance, was doing, in the United States of America. It was not
+confined to the United States of America. The volume was going forth
+over the whole earth, and great good was resulting, directly and
+indirectly, by God's providence, from it. He was told a few days ago, by
+a gentleman fully conversant with the facts, that an edition of Uncle
+Tom, circulated in Belgium, had created an earnest desire on the part of
+the people to read the Bible, so frequently quoted in that beautiful
+work, and that in consequence of it a great run had been made upon the
+Bible Society's depositories in that kingdom. [Hear, hear!] The priests
+of the church of Rome, true to their instinct, in endeavoring to
+maintain the position which they could not otherwise hold, had published
+another edition, from which, they had entirely excluded all reference to
+the word of God. [Hear, hear!] He had been also told that at St.
+Petersburg an edition of Uncle Tom had been translated into the Russian
+tongue, and that it was being distributed, by command of the emperor,
+throughout the whole of that vast empire. It was true that the
+circulation of the work there did not spring from a special desire on
+the part of the emperor to give liberty to the people of Russia, but
+because he wished to create a third power in the empire, to act upon the
+nobles; he wished to cause them to set free their serfs, in order that a
+third power might be created in the empire to serve as a check upon
+them. But whatever was the cause, let us thank God, the Author of all
+gifts, for what is done.
+
+Sir GEORGE STEPHEN seconded the motion of thanks to the ladies,
+observing that he had peculiar reasons for doing so. He supposed that he
+was one of the oldest laborers in this cause. Thirty years ago he found
+that the work of one lady was equal to that of fifty men; and now we had
+the work of one lady which was equal to that of all the male sex.
+[Applause.]
+
+
+PUBLIC MEETING IN GLASGOW--APRIL 15.
+
+THE REV. DR. WARDLAW was introduced by the chairman, and spoke as
+follows:--
+
+"The members of the Glasgow Ladies' New Antislavery Association and the
+citizens of Glasgow, now assembled, hail with no ordinary satisfaction,
+and with becoming gratitude to a kindly protecting Providence, the safe
+arrival amongst them of Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe. They feel obliged by
+her accepting, with so much promptitude and cordiality, the invitation
+addressed to her--an invitation intended to express the favor they bore
+to her, and the honor in which they held her, as the eminently gifted
+authoress of Uncle Tom's Cabin--a work of humble name, but of high
+excellence and world-wide celebrity; a work the felicity of whose
+conception is more than equalled by the admirable tact of its execution,
+and the Christian benevolence of its design, by its exquisite adaptation
+to its accomplishment; distinguished by the singular variety and
+consistent discrimination of its characters; by the purity of its
+religious and moral principles; by its racy humor, and its touching
+pathos, and its effectively powerful appeals to the judgment, the
+conscience, and the heart; a work, indeed, of whose sterling worth the
+earnest test is to be found in the fact of its having so universally
+touched and stirred the bosom of our common humanity, in all classes of
+society, that its humble name has become 'a household word,' from the
+palace to the cottage, and of the extent of its circulation having been
+unprecedented in the history of the literature of this or of any other
+age or country. They would, at the same time, include in their hearty
+welcome the Rev. C.E. Stowe, Professor of Theological Literature in the
+Andover Theological Seminary, Massachusetts, whose eminent
+qualifications, as a classical scholar, a man of general literature, and
+a theologian, have recently placed him in a highly honorable and
+responsible position, and who, on the subject of slavery, holds the same
+principles and breathes the same spirit of freedom with his accomplished
+partner; and, along with them too, another member of the same singularly
+talented family with herself. They delight to think of the amount of
+good to the cause of emancipation and universal liberty which her Cabin
+has already done, and to anticipate the still larger amount it is yet
+destined to do, now that the Key to the Cabin has triumphantly shown it
+to be no fiction; and in whatever further efforts she may be honored of
+Heaven to make in the same noble cause, they desire, unitedly and
+heartily, to cheer her on, and bid her 'God speed.' I cannot but feel
+myself highly honored in having been requested to move this resolution.
+In doing so, I have the happiness of introducing to a Glasgow audience a
+lady from the transatlantic continent, the extraordinary production of
+whose pen, referred to in the resolution, had made her name familiar in
+our country and through Europe, ere she appeared in person among us. My
+judgment and my heart alike fully respond to every thing said in the
+resolution respecting that inimitable work. We are accustomed to make a
+distinction between works of nature and works of art, but in a sense
+which, all will readily understand, this is preeminently both. As a work
+of art, it bears upon it, throughout, the stamp of original and varied
+genius. And yet, throughout, it equally bears the impress of nature--of
+human nature--in its worst and its best, and all its intermediate
+phases. The man who has read that little volume without laughing and
+crying alternately--without the meltings of pity, the thrillings of
+horror, and the kindlings of indignation--would supply a far better
+argument for a distinct race than a negro. [Loud laughter and cheers.]
+He must have a humanity peculiarly his own. And he who can read it
+without the breathings of devotion must, if he calls himself a
+Christian, have a Christianity as unique and questionable as his
+humanity. [Cheering.] Never did work produce such a sensation. Among us
+that sensation has happily been all of one kind. It has been the
+stirring of universal sympathy and unbounded admiration. Not so in the
+country of its own and of its gifted authoress's birth. There, the
+ferment has been among the friends as well as the foes of slavery. Among
+the former all is rage. Among the latter, while there are some--we trust
+not a few--who take the same high and noble position with the talented
+authoress, there are too many, we fear, who are frightened by this
+uncompromising boldness, and who are drawn back rather than drawn
+forward by it--who 'halt between two opinions,' and are the advocates of
+medium principles and medium measures. By many among ourselves, the
+excitement which has been stirred is contemplated with apprehension.
+They regard it as unfavorable to emancipation, and likely to retard
+rather than to advance its progress. I must confess myself of a somewhat
+different mind. That the cause may be obstructed by it for a time, may
+be true. But it will work well in the long run. Good will ultimately
+come out of it. Stir is better than stagnancy. Irritation is better than
+apathy. Whence does it arise? From two sources. The conscience and the
+honor of the country have both been touched. Conscience winces under the
+touch. The provocation shows it to be ill at ease. The wound is painful,
+and it naturally awakens fretfulness and resentment. But by and by the
+angry excitement will subside, and the salutary conviction will remain
+and operate. The national honor, too, has been touched. Our friends
+across the wave boast, and with good reason, of the free principles of
+their constitution. They glory in their liberty. But they cannot fail to
+feel the inconsistency of their position, and the exposure of it to the
+world kindles on the cheek the blush of shame and the reddening fire of
+displeasure. Now, the blush has aright source. It is the blush of
+patriotism--it is for their country. But there is anger with the shame;
+for few things are more galling than to feel that to be wrong which you
+are unable to justify, and which, yet, you are not prepared to
+relinquish. [Loud applause.] On the whole, I cannot but regard the
+agitation which has been produced as an auspicious, rather than a
+discouraging omen. It was when the waters of the pool were troubled that
+their healing virtue was imparted. Let us then hope that the troubling
+of the waters by this ministering angel of mercy may impregnate them
+with a similar sanative influence, [the reverend doctor here pointed
+towards Mrs. Stowe, while the audience burst out with enthusiastic
+acclamations and waving of handkerchiefs,] and thus ultimately
+contribute to the healing of the ghastly wounds of the chain and the
+lash, and to the setting of the crushed and bowed down erect in the
+soundness and dignity of their true manhood. [Loud cheering.] Sorry we
+are that Mrs. Stowe should appear amongst us in a state of broken health
+and physical exhaustion. No one who looks at the Cabin and at the Key,
+and who knows aught of the effect of severe mental labor on the bodily
+frame, will marvel at this. We fondly trust, and earnestly pray, that
+her temporary sojourn among us may, by the divine blessing, recruit her
+strength, and contribute to the prolongation of a life so promising of
+benefit to suffering humanity, and to the glory of God. [Cheers.]
+Meanwhile she enjoys the happy consciousness that she is suffering in a
+good cause. A better there could not be. It is one which involves the
+well being, corporeal and mental, physical and spiritual, temporal and
+eternal, of degraded, plundered, oppressed, darkened, brutalized,
+perishing millions. And, while we delight in furnishing her for a time
+with a peaceful retreat from 'the wrath of men,' from the resentment of
+those who, did they but rightly know their own interests, would have
+smiled upon her, and blessed her. We trust she enjoys, and ever will
+enjoy, quietness and assurance of an infinitely higher order--the divine
+Master, whom she serves and seeks to honor; proving to her, in the terms
+of his own promise, 'a refuge from the storm, and a covert from the
+tempest.' [Enthusiastic cheering.] It may sound strangely, that, when
+assembled for the very purpose of denouncing 'property in man,' we
+should be putting in our claims for a share of property in woman. So,
+however, it is. We claim Mrs. Stowe as ours--[renewed, cheers]--not ours
+only, but still ours. She is British and European property as well as
+American. She is the property of the whole world of literature and the
+whole world of humanity. [Cheers.] Should our transatlantic friends
+repudiate the property, they may transfer their share--[laughter and
+cheers]--most gladly will we accept the transference."
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE, on rising to reply, was greeted with the most
+enthusiastic applause. He said that he appeared in the name of Mrs.
+Stowe, and in his own name, for the purpose of cordially thanking the
+people of Glasgow for the reception that had been given to them. But he
+could not find words to do it. Was it true that all this affectionate
+interest was merited? [Cheers.] He could not imagine any book capable of
+exciting such expressions of attachment; indeed he was inclined to
+believe it had not been written at all--he "'spected it grew."
+[Tremendous cheers.] Under the oppression of the fugitive slave law the
+book had sprung from the soil ready made. He regretted exceedingly that
+in consequence of the state of Mrs. Stowe's health, and in consequence
+of the great pressure of engagements on himself, their stay in this
+country would be necessarily short. But he hoped they would accept of
+the expression of thanks they offered, and their apology for not being
+in a condition to meet their kindness as they would desire. When they
+were about to set out from Andover, a friend of theirs expressed his
+astonishment that they should enter upon such a journey in the delicate
+state of Mrs. Stowe's health. The Scotch people, he doubted not, would
+be kind to them--_they would kill them with kindness_; and he feared it
+would be so. It was from Glasgow the idea of the invitation they had
+received had originated; and well might it originate in that city, for
+when had been the time that Glasgow was not in earnest on the subject of
+freedom? They had had hard struggles for liberty, and they had been
+successful, and the people in the United States were now struggling for
+the same privilege. But they labored under circumstances greatly
+different from those in Great Britain. Scotland had ever been
+distinguished for its love of freedom. [Great applause.] The religious
+denominations in the United States--to a great extent, give few and
+feeble expressions of disapprobation against the system of slavery. Two
+denominations had never been silent--the Old Scotch Seceders, or
+Covenanters, and the disciples of William Penn--not one of their number,
+in the United States, owns a slave. Not one can own a slave without
+being ejected from the society.[A] In fact, the general feeling was
+against slavery; but to avoid trouble, the people hesitate to give
+publicity to their feelings. Were this done, slavery would soon come to
+an end. Great sacrifices are sometimes made by slaveholders to get rid
+of slavery. He went once to preach in the State of Ohio. He found there
+a little log house. Inside was a delicate woman, feeble and with white
+hands. She seemed wholly unaccustomed to work. Her husband had the same
+appearance of delicacy. They were very poor. How had they come into that
+state? They belonged to a slave State, where they had formerly possessed
+a little family of slaves. They had felt slavery to be wrong. They set
+them free, and with the remainder of their little property tried to get
+their living by farming; but like many similar cases, it had been one of
+martyrdom. The Professor then proceeded to make some very practical
+remarks on the character of the fugitive slave law, after which he said
+that the prosperity of Great Britain in a great measure resulted from
+the products of slave labor. American cotton was the chief support of
+the system. We must, both in Britain and America, get free-grown cotton,
+or slavery will not, at least for a long time to come, be abolished.
+What he would impress on the minds of Christians was unity in this great
+work. Let slaveholders be ever so much opposed to each other on other
+topics, they were unanimous in their endeavors to support slavery. But
+let the prayers of all Christians and the efforts of all Christians be
+united; and the system of oppression would speedily be destroyed
+forever.
+
+
+PUBLIC MEETING IN EDINBURGH--APRIL 20.
+
+THE LORD PROVOST rose, and stated that a number of letters of apology
+had been received from parties who had been invited to take part in the
+meeting, but who had been unable to attend. Among these he might
+mention Professor Blackie, the Rev. Mr. Gilfillan, of Dundee, Rev. J.
+Begg, D.D., the Earl of Buchan, Dr. Candlish, and Sir W. Gibson Craig,
+all of whom expressed their regret that they could not be present. One
+of them, he observed, was from a gentleman who had long taken an
+interest in the antislavery cause,--Lord Cockburn,[B]--and his note was
+so warm, and sympathetic, and hearty on the subject about which they had
+met, that he could not resist the temptation of reading it. It
+proceeded, "I regret, that owing to my being obliged to be in Ayrshire,
+it will not be in my power to join you in the expression of respect and
+gratitude to Mrs. Stowe; she deserves all the honor that can be done
+her; she has done more for humanity than was ever accomplished before by
+a single book of fiction. [Cheers.] It did not require much to raise our
+British feeling against slavery, but by showing us what substantially
+are facts, and the necessary tendency of this evil in its most mitigated
+form, she has greatly strengthened the ground on which this feeling
+rests. Her work may have no immediate or present influence on the states
+of her own country that are now unhappily under the curse, and may
+indeed for a time aggravate its horrors; but it is a prodigious
+accession to the constantly accumulating mass of views and evidence,
+which by reason of its force must finally prevail." [Cheers.] The Lord
+Provost proceeded to say, that they had now assembled chiefly to do
+honor to their distinguished guest, Mrs. Stowe. [Applause.] They had
+met, however, also to express their interest in the cause which it had
+been the great effort of her life to promote--the abolition of slavery.
+They took advantage of her presence, and the effect which was produced
+on the public mind of this country, to reiterate their love for the
+abolition cause, and their detestation of slavery. Before they were
+aware that Mrs. Stowe was to grace the city of Edinburgh with her
+presence, a committee had been organized to collect a penny
+offering--the amount to be contributed in pence, and other small sums,
+from the masses of this country--to be presented to her as some means of
+mitigating, through her instrumentality, the horrors of slavery, as they
+might come under her observation. It was intended at once as a mark of
+their esteem for her, of their confidence in her, of their conviction
+that she would do what was right in the cause, and, at the same time, as
+an evidence of the detestation in which the system of slavery was held
+in this free country. That penny offering now, he was happy to say, by
+the spontaneous efforts of the inhabitants of this and other towns,
+amounted to a considerable sum; to certain gentlemen in Edinburgh
+forming the committee the whole credit of this organization was due, and
+he believed one of their number, the Rev. Mr. Ballantyne, would present
+the offering that evening, and tell them all about it. He would not,
+therefore, forestall what he would have to say on the subject. They were
+also to have the pleasure of presenting Mrs. Stowe with an address from
+the committee in this city, which would be presented by another reverend
+friend, who would be introduced at the proper time. As there would be a
+number of speakers to follow during the evening, his own remarks must
+be exceedingly short; but he could not resist the temptation of saying
+how happy he felt at being once more in the midst of a great meeting in
+the city of Edinburgh, for the purpose of expressing their detestation
+of the system of slavery. They could appeal to their brethren in the
+United States with clean hands, because they had got rid of the
+abomination themselves; they could therefore say to them, through their
+friends who were now present, on their return home, and through the
+press, which would carry their sentiments even to the slave states--they
+could say to them that they had washed their own hands of the evil at
+the largest pecuniary sacrifice that was ever made by any nation for the
+promotion of any good cause. [Loud applause.] Some parties said that
+they should not speak harshly of the Americans, because they were full
+of prejudice with regard to the system which they had seen growing up
+around them. He said so too with all his heart; he joined in the
+sentiment that they should not speak harshly, but they might fairly
+express their opinion of the system with which their American friends
+were surrounded, and in which he thought all who supported it were
+guilty participators. [Hear, hear!] They could denounce the wickedness,
+they could tell them that they thought it was their duty to put an end
+to it speedily. The cause of the abolition of slavery in our own
+colonies long hung without any visible progress, notwithstanding the
+efforts of many distinguished men, who did all they could to mitigate
+some of its more prominent evils; and yet, so long as they never struck
+at the root, the progress which they made was almost insensible. They
+knew how many men had spent their energies, and some of them their
+lives, in attempting to forward the cause; but how little effect was
+produced for the first half of the present century! The city of
+Edinburgh had always, he was glad to say, taken a deep interest in the
+cause; it was one of the very first to take up the ground of total and
+entire abolition. [Cheers.] A predecessor of his own in the civic chair
+was so kind as to preside at a meeting held in Edinburgh twenty-three
+years ago, in which a very decided step was proposed to be taken in
+advance, and a resolution was moved by the then Dean of Faculty, to the
+effect that on the following first of January, 1831, all the children
+born of slave parents in our colonies were from that date to be declared
+free. That was thought a great and most important movement by the
+promoters of the cause. There were, however, parties at that crowded
+meeting who thought that even this was a mere expedient--that it was a
+mere pruning of the branches, leaving the whole system intact. One of
+these was the late Dr. Andrew Thomson--[cheers]--who had the courage to
+propose that the meeting should at once declare for total and immediate
+abolition, which proposal was seconded by another excellent citizen, Mr.
+Dickie. Dr. Thomson replied to some of the arguments which had been put
+forward, to the effect that the total abolition might possibly occasion
+bloodshed; and he said that, even if that did follow, it was no fault of
+his, and that he still stuck to the principle, which he considered right
+under any circumstances. The chairman, thereupon, threatened to leave
+the chair on account of the unnecessarily strong language used, and when
+the sentiments were reiterated by Mr. Dickie, he actually bolted, and
+left the meeting, which was thrown into great confusion. A few days
+afterwards, however, another meeting was held--one of the largest and
+most effective that had been ever held in Edinburgh--at which were
+present Mr. John Shank More in the chair, the Rev. Dr. Thomson, Rev. Dr
+Gordon, Dr. Ritchie, Mr. Muirhead, the Rev. Mr. Buchanan of North Leith,
+Mr. J. Wigham, Jr., Dr. Greville, &c. The Lord Provost proceeded to read
+extracts from the speeches made at the meeting, showing that the
+sentiments of the inhabitants of Edinburgh, so far back as 1830, as
+uttered by some of its most distinguished men,--not violent agitators,
+but ministers of the gospel, promoters of peace and order, and every
+good and every benevolent purpose,--were in favor of the immediate and
+total abolition of slavery in our colonies. He referred especially to
+the speech of Dr. Andrew Thomson on this occasion, from which he read
+the following extract: "But if the argument is forced upon me to
+accomplish this great object, that there must be violence, let it come,
+for it will soon pass away--let it come and rage its little hour, since
+it is to be succeeded by lasting freedom, and prosperity, and happiness.
+Give me the hurricane rather than the pestilence. Give me the hurricane,
+with its thunders, and its lightnings, and its tempests--give me the
+hurricane, with its partial and temporary devastations, awful though
+they be--give me the hurricane, which brings along with it purifying,
+and healthful, and salutary effects--give me the hurricane rather than
+the noisome pestilence, whose path is never crossed, whose silence is
+never disturbed, whose progress is never arrested by one sweeping blast
+from the heavens--which walks peacefully and sullenly through the length
+and breadth of the land, breathing poison into every heart, and carrying
+havoc into every home--enervating all that is strong, defacing all that
+is beautiful, and casting its blight over the fairest and happiest
+scenes of human life--and which from day to day, and from year to year,
+with intolerant and interminable malignity, sends its thousands and tens
+of thousands of hapless victims into the ever-yawning and
+never-satisfied grave!"--[Loud and long applause.] The experience which
+they had had, that all the dangers, all the bloodshed and violence which
+were threatened, were merely imaginary, and that none of these evils had
+come upon them although slavery had been totally abolished by us,
+should, he thought, be an encouragement to their American friends to go
+home and tell their countrymen that in this great city the views now put
+forward were advocated long ago--that the persons who now held them said
+the same years ago of the disturbances and the evils which would arise
+from pressing the question of immediate and total abolition--that the
+same kind of arguments and the same predictions of evil were uttered in
+England--and although she had not the experience, although she had not
+the opportunity of pointing to the past, and saying the evil had not
+come in such a case, still, even then, they were willing to face the
+evil, to stick to the righteous principle, and to say, come what would,
+justice must be done to the slave, and slavery must be wholly and
+immediately abolished. [Cheers.] He had said so much on the question of
+slavery, because he was very sure it would be much more agreeable to
+their modest and retiring and distinguished guest that one should speak
+about any other thing than about herself. Uncle Tom's Cabin needed no
+recommendation from him. [Loud cheers.] It was the most extraordinary
+book, he thought, that had ever been published; no book had ever got
+into the same circulation; none had ever produced a tithe of the
+impression which it had produced within a given time. It was worth all
+the proslavery press of America put together. The horrors of slavery
+were not merely described, but they were actually pictured to the eye.
+They were seen and understood fully; formerly they were mere dim
+visions, about which there was great difference of opinion; some saw
+them as in a mist, and others more clearly; but now every body saw and
+understood slavery. Every body in this great city, if they had a voice
+in the matter, would be prepared to say that they wished slavery to be
+utterly extinguished. [Loud cheers.]
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE then rose, and was greeted with loud cheers. He begged
+to read the following note from Mrs. Stowe, in acknowledgment of the
+honor:--
+
+"I accept these congratulations and honors, and this offering, which it
+has pleased Scotland to bestow on me, not for any thing which I have
+said or done, not as in any sense acknowledging that they are or can be
+deserved, but with heartfelt, humble gratitude to God, as tokens of
+mercy to a cause most sacred and most oppressed. In the name of a people
+despised and rejected of men--in the name of men of sorrows acquainted
+with grief, from whom the faces of all the great and powerful of the
+earth have been hid--in the name of oppressed and suffering humanity, I
+thank you. The offering given is the dearer to me, and the more hopeful,
+that it is literally the penny offering, given by thousands on
+thousands, a penny at a time. When, in travelling through your country,
+aged men and women have met me with such fervent blessings, little
+children gathered round me with such loving eyes--when honest hands,
+hard with toil, have been stretched forth with such hearty welcome--when
+I have seen how really it has come from the depths of the hearts of the
+common people, and know, as I truly do, what prayers are going up with
+it from the humblest homes of Scotland, I am encouraged. I believe it is
+God who inspires this feeling, and I believe God never inspired it in
+vain. I feel an assurance that the Lord hath looked down from heaven to
+hear the groaning of the prisoner, and according to the greatness of his
+power, to loose those that are appointed to die. In the human view,
+nothing can be more hopeless than this cause; all the wealth, and all
+the power, and all the worldly influence is against it. But here in
+Scotland, need we tell the children of the Covenant, that the Lord on
+high is mightier than all human power? Here, close by the spot where
+your fathers signed that Covenant, in an hour when Scotland's cause was
+equally poor and depressed--here, by the spot where holy martyrs sealed
+it with their blood, it will neither seem extravagance nor enthusiasm to
+say to the children of such parents, that for the support of this cause,
+we look, not to the things that are seen, but to the things that are not
+seen; to that God, who, in the face of all worldly power, gave liberty
+to Scotland, in answer to your fathers' prayers. Our trust is in Jesus
+Christ, and in the power of the Holy Ghost, and in the promise that he
+shall reign till he hath put all things under his feet. There are those
+faithless ones, who, standing at the grave of a buried humanity, tell us
+that it is vain to hope for our brother, because he hath lain in the
+grave three days already. We turn from them to the face of Him who has
+said, 'Thy brother shall rise again.' There was a time when our great
+High Priest, our Brother, yet our Lord, lay in the grave three days; and
+the governors and powers of the earth made it as sure as they could,
+seeding the stone and setting a watch. But a third day came, and an
+earthquake, and an angel. So shall it be to the cause of the oppressed;
+though now small and despised, we are watchers at the sepulchre, like
+Mary and the trusting women; we can sit through the hours of darkness.
+We are watching the sky for the golden streaks of dawning, and we
+believe that the third day will surely come. For Christ our Lord, being
+raised from the dead, dieth no more; and he has pledged his word that he
+shall not fail nor be discouraged till he have set judgment on the
+earth. He shall deliver the poor when He crieth, the needy, and him that
+hath no helper. The night is far spent--the day is at hand. The
+universal sighing of humanity in all countries, the whole creation
+groaning and travailing in pain together--the earnest expectation of the
+creature waiting for the manifestation of the sons of God--show that the
+day is not distant when he will break every yoke, and let the oppressed
+go free. And whatever we are able to do for this sacred cause, let us
+cast it where the innumerable multitude of heaven cast their crowns, at
+the feet of the Lamb, saying, 'Worthy is the Lamb that was slain to
+receive power, and riches, and wisdom, and strength, and honor, and
+glory, and blessings.'"
+
+The Rev. Professor then continued. "My Lord Provost, Ladies and
+Gentlemen: This cause, to be successful, must be carried on in a
+religious spirit, with a deep sense of our dependence on God, and with
+that love for our fellow-men which the gospel requires. It is because I
+think I have met this spirit since I reached the shores of Great
+Britain, in those who have taken an interest in the cause, that I feel
+encouraged to hope that the expression of your feeling will be effective
+on the hearts of Christians on the other side of the Atlantic. There are
+Christians there as sincere, as hearty, and as earnest, as any on the
+face of the earth. They have looked at this subject, and been troubled;
+they have hardly known what to do, and their hearts have been
+discouraged. They have almost turned away their eyes from it, because
+they have scarcely dared encounter it, the difficulties appeared to them
+so great. Wrong cannot always receive the support of Christians; wrong
+must be done away with; and what must be--what God requires to be--that
+certainly will be. Now, in this age, man is every where beginning to
+regard the sufferings of his fellow-man as his own. There is an interest
+felt in man, as man, which was not felt in preceding ages. The
+facilities of communication are bringing all nations in contact, and
+whatever wrong exists in any part of the world, is every where felt.
+There are wrongs and sufferings every where; but those to which we are
+accustomed, we look upon with most indifference, because being
+accustomed to them, we do not feel their enormity. You feel the
+enormity of slavery more than we do, because you are not immediately
+interested, and regard it at a distance. We regard some of the wrongs
+that exist in the old world with more sensibility than you can regard
+them, because we are not accustomed to them, and you are. Therefore, in
+the spirit of Christian love, it belongs to Christian men to speak to
+each other with great fidelity. It has been said that you know little or
+nothing about slavery. O, happy men, that you are ignorant of its
+enormities. [Hear, hear!] But you do know something about it. You know
+as much about it as you know of the widow-burning in India, or the
+cannibalism in the Fejee Islands, or any of those crimes and sorrows of
+paganism, that induced you to send forth your missionaries. You know it
+is a great wrong, and a terrible obstacle to the progress of the gospel;
+and that is enough for you to know to induce you to act. You have as
+much knowledge as ever induced a Christian community in any part of the
+world to exert an influence in any other part of the world. Slavery is a
+relic of paganism, of barbarism; it must be removed by Christianity; and
+if the light of Christianity shines on it clearly, it certainly will
+remove it. There are thousands of hearts in the United States that
+rejoice in your help. Whatever expressions of impatience and petulance
+you may hear, be assured that these expressions are not the heart of the
+great body of the people. [Cheers.] A large proportion of that country
+is free from slavery. There is an area of freedom ten times larger than
+Great Britain in territory.[C] [Cheers.] But all the power over the
+slave is in the hands of the slaveholder. You had a power over the
+slaveholder by your national legislature; our national legislature has
+no power over the slaveholder. All the legislation that can in that
+country be brought to bear for the slave, is legislation by the
+slaveholders themselves. There is where the difficulty lies. It is
+altogether by persuasion, Christian counsel, Christian sympathy,
+Christian earnestness, that any good can be effected for the slave. The
+conscience of the people is against the system--the conscience of the
+people, even in the slaveholding states; and if we can but get at the
+conscience without exciting prejudice, it will tend greatly towards the
+desired effect. But this appeal to the conscience must be
+unintermittent, constant. Your hands must not be weary, your prayers
+must not be discontinued; but every day and every hour should we be
+doing something towards the object. It is sometimes said, Americans who
+resist slavery are traitors to their country. No; those who would
+support freedom are the only true friends of their country. Our fathers
+never intended slavery to be identified with the government of the
+United States; but in the temptations of commerce the evil was
+overlooked; and how changed for the worse has become the public
+sentiment even within the last thirty or forty years! The enormous
+increase in the consumption of cotton has raised enormously the market
+value of slaves, and arrayed both avarice and political ambition in
+defence of slavery. Instruct the conscience, and produce free cotton,
+and this will be like Cromwell's exhortation to his soldiers, '_Trust
+in God, and keep your powder dry_.'" [Continued cheers.]
+
+THE REV. DR. R. LEE then said: "I am quite sure that every individual
+here responds cordially to those sentiments of respect and gratitude
+towards our honored guest which have been so well expressed by the Lord
+Provost and the other gentlemen who have addressed us. We think that
+this lady has not only laid us under a great obligation by giving us one
+of the most delightful books in the English language, but that she has
+improved us as men and as Christians, that she has taught us the value
+of our privileges, and made us more sensible than we were before of the
+obligation which lies upon us to promote every good work. I have been
+requested to say a few words on the degradation of American slavery; but
+I feel, in the presence of the gentleman who last addressed you, and of
+those who are still to address you, that it would be almost presumption
+in me to enter on such a subject. It is impossible to speak or to think
+of the subject of slavery without feeling that there is a double
+degradation in the matter; for, in the first place, the slave is a man
+made in the image of God--God's image cut in ebony, as old Thomas Fuller
+quaintly but beautifully said; and what right have we to reduce him to
+the image of a brute, and make property of him? We esteem drunkenness as
+a sin. Why is it a sin? Because it reduces that which was made in the
+image of God to the image of a brute. We say to the drunkard, 'You are
+guilty of a sacrilege, because you reduce that which God made in his own
+image "into the image of an irrational creature."' Slavery does the very
+same. But there is not only a degradation committed as regards the
+slave--there is a degradation also committed against himself by him who
+makes him a slave, and who retains him in the position of a slave; for
+is it not one of the most commonplace of truths that we cannot do a
+wrong to a neighbor without doing a greater wrong to ourselves?--that we
+cannot injure him without also injuring ourselves yet more? I observe
+there is a certain class of writers in America who are fond of
+representing the feeling of this country towards America as one of
+jealousy, if not of hatred.. I think, my lord, that no American ever
+travelled in this country without being conscious at once that this is a
+total mistake--that this is a total misapprehension. I venture to say
+that there is no nation on the face of the earth in which we feel half
+so much interest, or towards which we feel the tenth part of the
+affection, which we do towards our brethren in the United States of
+America. And what is more than that--there is no nation towards which we
+feel one half so much admiration, and for which we feel half so much
+respect, as we do for the people of the United States of America.
+[Cheers.] Why, sir, how can it be otherwise? How is it possible that it
+should be the reverse? Are they not our bone and our flesh? and their
+character, whatever it is, is it any thing more than our own, a little
+exaggerated, perhaps? Their virtues and their vices, their faults and
+their excellences, are just the virtues and the vices, the faults and
+the excellences, of that old respectable freeholder, John Bull, from
+whom they are descended. We are not much surprised that a nation which
+are slaves themselves should make other men slaves. This cannot very
+much surprise us: but we are both surprised and we are deeply grieved,
+that a nation which has conceived so well the idea of freedom--a nation
+which has preached the doctrines of freedom with such boldness and such
+fulness--a nation which has so boldly and perfectly realized its idea of
+freedom in every other respect--should in this only instance have sunk
+so completely below its own idea, and forgetting the rights of one class
+of their fellow-creatures, should have deprived them of freedom
+altogether. I say that our grief and our disapprobation of this in the
+case of our brethren in America arises very much from this, that in
+other respects we admire them so much, we are sorry that so noble a
+nation should allow a blot like this to remain upon its escutcheon. I am
+not ignorant--nobody can be ignorant--of the great difficulties which
+encompass the solution of this question in America. It is vain for us to
+shut our eyes to it. There can be no doubt whatever that great
+sacrifices will require to be made in order to get rid of this great
+evil. But the Americans are a most ingenious people; they are full of
+inventions of all sorts, from the invention of a machine for protecting
+our feet from the water, to a machine for making ships go by means of
+heated air; from the one to the other the whole field of discovery is
+occupied by their inventive genius. There is not an article in common
+use among us but bears some stamp of America. We rise in the morning,
+and before we are dressed we have had half a dozen American articles in
+our hands. And during the day, as we pass through the streets, articles
+of American invention meet us every where. In short, the ingenuity of
+the people is proclaimed all over the world. And there can be no doubt
+that the moment this great, this ingenious people finds that slavery is
+both an evil and a sin, their ingenuity will be successfully exerted in
+discovering some invention for preventing its abolition from ruining
+them altogether. [Cheers.] No doubt their ingenuity will be equal to the
+occasion; and I may take the liberty of adding, that their ingenuity in
+that case will find even a richer reward than it has done in those other
+inventions which have done them so much honor, and been productive of so
+much profit. I say, that sacrifices must be made; there can be no doubt
+about that; but I would also observe, that the longer the evil is
+permitted to continue, the greater and more tremendous will become the
+sacrifice which will be needed to put an end to it; for all history
+proves that a nation encumbered, with slavery is surrounded with danger.
+[Applause.] Has the history of antiquity been written in vain? Does it
+not teach us that not only domestic and social pollutions are the
+inevitable results, but does it not teach us also that political
+insecurity and political revolutions as certainly slumber beneath the
+institution of slavery as fireworks at the basis of Mount Ætna?
+[Cheers.] It cannot but be so. Men no more than steam can be compressed
+without a tremendous revulsion; and let our brethren in America be sure
+of this, that the longer the day of reckoning is put off by them, the
+more tremendous at last that reckoning will Be." [Loud, applause.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In regard to this meeting at Edinburgh, there was a ridiculous story
+circulated and variously commented on in certain newspapers of the
+United States, that _the American flag was there exhibited, insulted,
+torn, and mutilated_. Certain religious papers took the lead in
+propagating the slander, which, so for as I know or can learn, _had no
+foundation_, unless it be that, in the arranging of the flag around its
+staff, the stars might have been more distinctly visible than the
+stripes. The walls were profusely adorned with drapery, and there were
+numerous flags disposed in festoons. Truly a wonderful thing to make a
+story of, and then parade it in the newspapers from Maine to Texas,
+beginning in Philadelphia!
+
+
+PUBLIC MEETING IN ABERDEEN--APRIL 21.
+
+ADDRESS OF THE CITIZENS.
+
+MRS H. BEECHER STOWE.
+
+MADAM: The citizens of Aberdeen have much pleasure in embracing the
+opportunity now afforded them of expressing at once their esteem for
+yourself personally, and their interest in the cause of which you have
+been the distinguished advocate.
+
+While they would, not render a blind homage to mere genius, however
+exalted, they consider genius such as yours, directed by Christian
+principle, as that which, for the welfare of humanity, cannot be too
+highly or too fervently honored.
+
+Without depreciating the labors of the various advocates of slave
+emancipation who have appeared from time to time on both sides of the
+Atlantic, they may conscientiously award to you the praise of having
+brought about the present universal and enthusiastic sentiment in regard
+to the slavery which exists in America.
+
+The galvanic battery may be arranged and charged, every plate, wire, and
+fluid being in its appropriate place; but, until some hand shall bring
+together the extremities of the conducting medium, in vain might we
+expect to elicit the latent fire.
+
+Every heart may throb with the feeling of benevolence, and every mind
+respond to the sentiment that man, in regard to man, should be free and
+equal; but it is the province of genius such as yours to give unity to
+the universal, and find utterance for the felt.
+
+When society has been prepared for some momentous movement or moral
+reformation, so that the hidden thoughts of the people want only an
+interpreter, the thinking community an organ, and suffering humanity a
+champion, distinguished is the honor belonging to the individual in whom
+all these requisites are found combined.
+
+To you has been assigned by Providence the important task of educing the
+latent emotions of humanity, and waking the music that slumbered in the
+chords of the universal human heart, till it has pealed forth in one
+deep far rolling and harmonious anthem, of which the heavenly burden is,
+"Liberty to the captive, and the opening of the prison to them that are
+bound!"
+
+The production of your accomplished pen, which has already called forth
+such unqualified eulogy from almost every land where Anglo-Saxon
+literature finds access, and created so sudden and fervent an excitement
+on the momentous subject of American slavery, has nowhere been hailed
+with a more cordial welcome, or produced more salutary effects, than in
+the city of Aberdeen.
+
+Though long ago imbued, with antislavery principles and interested in
+the progress of liberty in every part of the world, our community, like
+many others, required such information, suggestions, and appeals as your
+valuable work contains in one great department of slavery, in order that
+their interest might be turned into a specific direction, and their
+principles reduced, to combined practical effort.
+
+Already they have esteemed it a privilege to engage with some activity
+in the promotion of the interests of the fugitive slave; and they shall
+henceforth regard with a deeper interest than ever the movements of
+their American brethren in this matter, until there exists among them no
+slavery from which to flee.
+
+While they participate in your abhorrence of slavery in the American
+states, they trust they need scarcely assure you that they participate
+also in your love for the American people.
+
+It is in proportion as they love that nation, attached to them by so
+many ties, that they lament the existence of a system which, so long as
+it exists, must bring odium upon the national character, as it cannot
+fail to enfeeble and impair their best social institutions.
+
+They believe it to be a maxim that man cannot hold his fellow-man in
+slavery without being himself to some extent enslaved. And of this the
+censorship of the press, together with the expurgatorial indices of
+various religious societies in the Southern States of America, furnish
+ample corroboration.
+
+It is hoped that your own nation may speedily be directed to recognize
+you as its best friend, for having stood forth in the spirit of true
+patriotism to advocate the claims of a large portion of your countrymen,
+and to seek the removal of an evil which has done much to neutralize the
+moral influence of your country's best (and otherwise free)
+institutions.
+
+Accept, then, from the community of Aberdeen their congratulations on
+the high literary fame which you have by a single effort so deservedly
+acquired, and their grateful acknowledgments for your advocacy of a
+cause in which the best interests of humanity are involved.
+
+Signed in name and by appointment of a public meeting of the citizens of
+Aberdeen within the County Buildings, this 21st April, 1853, A.D.
+
+GEO. HESSAY,
+
+_Provost of Aberdeen_.
+
+
+PUBLIC MEETING IN DUNDEE--APRIL 22.
+
+
+MR. GILFILLAN, who was received with great applause, said he had been
+intrusted by the Committee of the Ladies' Antislavery Association to
+present the following address to Mrs. Stowe, which he would read to the
+meeting:--
+
+"MADAM: We, the ladies of the Dundee Antislavery Association, desire to
+add our feeble voices to the acclamations of a world, conscious that
+your fame and character need no testimony from us. We are less anxious
+to honor you than to prove that our appreciation and respect are no less
+sincere and no less profound than those of the millions in other places
+and other lands, whom you have instructed, improved, delighted, and
+thrilled. We beg permission to lay before you the expressions of a
+gratitude and an enthusiasm in some measure commensurate with your
+transcendent literary merit and moral worth. We congratulate you on the
+success of the _chef-d'oeuvre_ of your genius, a success altogether
+unparalleled, and in all probability never to be paralleled in the
+history of literature. We congratulate you still more warmly on that
+nobility and benevolence of nature which made you from childhood the
+friend of the unhappy slave, and led you to accumulate unconsciously the
+materials for the immortal tale of Uncle Tom's Cabin. We congratulate
+you in having in that tale supported with matchless eloquence and pathos
+the cause of the crushed, the forgotten, the injured, of those who had
+no help of man at all, and who had even been blasphemously taught by
+professed ministers of the gospel of mercy that Heaven too was opposed
+to their liberation, and had blotted them out from the catalogue of man.
+We recognize, too, with delight, the spirit of enlightened and
+evangelical piety which breathes through your work, and serves to
+confute the calumny that none but infidels are interested in the cause
+of abolition--a calumny which cuts at Christianity with a yet sharper
+edge than at abolition, but which you have proved to be a foul and
+malignant falsehood. We congratulate you not only on the richness of the
+laurels which you have won, but on the dignity, the meekness, and the
+magnanimity with which these laurels have been worn. We hail in you our
+most gifted sister in the great cause of liberty--we bid you warmly
+welcome to our city, and we pray Almighty God, the God of the oppressed,
+to pour his selectest blessings on your head, and to spare your
+invaluable life, till yours, and ours, and others' efforts for the cause
+of abolition are crowned with success, and till the shouts of a
+universal jubilee shall proclaim that in all quarters of the globe the
+African is free."
+
+The address was handed to Mrs. Stowe amid great applause. MR. GILFILLAN
+continued: "In addition to the address which I have now read, I have
+been requested to add a few remarks; and in making these I cannot but
+congratulate Dundee on the fact that Mrs. Stowe has visited it, and that
+she has had a reception worthy of her distinguished merits. [Applause.]
+It is not Dundee alone that is present here to-night: it is
+Forfarshire, Fifeshire, and I may also add, Perthshire:--that are here
+to do honor to themselves in doing honor to our illustrious guest.
+[Cheers.] There are assembled here representatives of the general
+feeling that boils in the whole land--not from our streets alone, but
+from our country valleys--from our glens and our mountains O! I wish
+that Mrs. Stowe would but spare time to go herself and study that
+enthusiasm amid its own mountain recesses, amid the uplands and the
+friths, and the wild solitudes of our own unconquered and unconquerable
+land. She would see scenery there worthy of that pencil which has
+painted so powerfully the glories of the Mississippi; ay, and she would
+find her name known and reverenced in every hamlet, and see copies of
+Uncle Tom's Cabin in the shepherd's shieling, beside Bunyan's Pilgrim's
+Progress, the Life of Sir William Wallace, Rob Roy, and the Gaelic
+Bible. I saw copies of it carried by travellers last autumn among the
+gloomy grandeurs of Glencoe, and, as Coleridge once said when he saw
+Thomson's Seasons lying in a Welsh wayside inn, 'That is true fame,' I
+thought this was fame truer still. [Applause.] It is too late in the day
+to criticize Uncle Tom's Cabin, or to speculate on its unprecedented
+history--a history which seems absolutely magical. Why, you are reminded
+of Aladdin's lamp, and of the palace that was reared by genii in one
+night. Mrs. Stowe's genius has done a greater wonder than this--it has
+reared in a marvellously short time a structure which, unlike that
+Arabian fabric, is a reality, and shall last forever. [Applause.] She
+must not be allowed, to depreciate herself, and to call her glorious
+book a mere 'bubble.' Such a bubble there never was before. I wish we
+had ten thousand such bubbles. [Applause.] If it had been a bubble it
+would have broken long ago. 'Man,' says Jeremy Taylor, 'is a bubble.'
+Yea, but he is an immortal one. And such an immortal bubble is Uncle
+Tom's Cabin; it can only with man expire; and yet a year ago not ten
+individuals in this vast assembly had ever heard of its author's name.
+[Applause.] At its artistic merits we may well marvel--to find in a
+small volume the descriptive power of a Scott, the humor of a Dickens,
+the keen, observing glance of a Thackeray, the pathos of a Richardson or
+Mackenzie, combined with qualities of earnestness, simplicity, humanity,
+and womanhood peculiar to the author herself. But there are three things
+which, strike me as peculiarly remarkable about Uncle Tom's Cabin: it is
+the work of an American--of a woman--and of an evangelical Christian.
+[Cheers.] We have long been accustomed to despise American literature--I
+mean as compared with our own. I have heard eminent _litterateurs_ say,
+'Pshaw! the Americans have no national literature.' It was thought that
+they lived entirely on plunder--the plunder of poor slaves, and of poor
+British authors. [Loud cheers.] Their own works, when, they came among
+us, were treated either with contempt or with patronizing wonder--yes,
+the 'Sketch Book' was a very good book to be an American's. To parody
+two lines of Pope, we
+
+  Admired such wisdom in a Yankee shape,
+  And showed an Irving as they show an ape.'
+
+[Loud cheers.] And yet, strange to tell, not only of late have we been
+almost deluged with editions of new and excellent American writers, but
+the most popular book of the century has appeared on the west side of
+the Atlantic. Let us hear no more of the poverty of American brains, or
+the barrenness of American literature. Had it produced only Uncle Tom's
+Cabin, it had evaded contempt just as certainly as Don Quixote, had
+there been no other product of the Spanish mind, would have rendered it
+forever illustrious. It is the work of a woman, too! None but a woman
+could have written it. There are in the human mind springs at once
+delicate and deep, which only the female genius can understand, or the
+female finger touch. Who but a female could have created the gentle Eva,
+painted the capricious and selfish Marie St. Clair, or turned loose a
+Topsy upon the wondering world? [Loud and continued cheering.] And it is
+to my mind exceedingly delightful, and it must be humiliating to our
+opponents, to remember that the severest stroke to American slavery has
+been given by a woman's hand. [Loud cheers.] It was the smooth stone
+from the brook which, sent from the hand of a youthful David, overthrew
+Goliath of Gath; but I am less reminded of this than of another incident
+in Scripture history. When the robber and oppressor of Israel,
+Abimelech, who had slain his brethren, was rushing against a tower,
+whither his enemies had fled, we are told that 'a certain woman cast a
+piece of a millstone upon Abimelech's head, and all to break his skull,'
+and that he cried hastily to the young man, his armor-bearer, and said
+unto him, 'Draw thy sword, and slay me, that men say not of me, A woman
+slew him.' It is a parable of our present position. Mrs. Stowe has
+thrown a piece of millstone, sharp and strong, at the skull of the giant
+abomination of her country; he is reeling in his death pangs, and, in
+the fury of his despair and shame, is crying, but crying in vain, 'Say
+not, A woman slew me!' [Applause.] But the world shall say, 'A woman
+slew him,' or, at least, 'gave him the first blow, and drove him to
+despair and suicide.' [Cheers.] Lastly, it is the work of an evangelical
+Christian; and the piety of the book has greatly contributed to its
+power. It has forever wiped away the vile calumny, that all who love
+their African brother hate their God and Savior. I look, indeed, on Mrs.
+Stowe's volume, not only as a noble contribution to the cause of
+emancipation, but to the general cause of Christianity. It is an olive
+leaf in a dove's mouth, testifying that the waters of scepticism, which
+have rolled more fearfully far in America than here,--and no wonder, if
+the Christianity of America in general is a slaveholding, man-stealing,
+soul-murdering Christianity--that they are abating, and that genuine
+liberty and evangelical religion are soon to clasp hands, and to smile
+in unison on the ransomed, regenerated, and truly 'United States.' [Loud
+and reiterated applause.]"
+
+
+ADDRESS OF THE STUDENTS OF GLASGOW UNIVERSITY--APRIL 25.
+
+This address is particularly gratifying on account of its recognition of
+the use of intoxicating drinks as an evil analogous to slaveholding, and
+to be eradicated by similar means. The two reforms are in all respects
+similar movements, to be promoted in the same manner and with the same
+spirit.
+
+MRS. HARRIET BEECHER STOWE.
+
+MADAM: The Committee of the Glasgow University Abstainers' Society,
+representing nearly one hundred students, embrace the opportunity which
+you have so kindly afforded them, of expressing their high esteem for
+you, and their appreciation of your noble efforts in behalf of the
+oppressed. They cordially join in the welcome with which you have been
+so justly received on these shores, and earnestly hope and pray that
+your visit may be beneficial to your own health, and tend greatly to the
+furtherance of Christian philanthropy.
+
+The committee have had their previous convictions confirmed, and their
+hearts deeply affected, by your vivid and faithful delineations of
+slavery; and they desire to join with thousands on both sides of the
+Atlantic, who offer fervent thanksgiving to God for having endowed you
+with those rare gifts, which have qualified you for producing the
+noblest testimony against slavery, next to the Bible, which the world
+has ever received.
+
+While giving all the praise to God, from whom cometh every good and
+perfect gift, they may be excused for mentioning three characteristics
+of your writings regarding slavery, which awakened their admiration--a
+sensibility befitting the anguish of suffering millions; the graphic
+power which presents to view the complex and hideous system, stripped of
+all its deceitful disguises; and the moral courage that was required to
+encounter the monster, and drag it forth to the gaze and the execration
+of mankind.
+
+The committee feel humbled in being called to confess and deplore, as
+existing among ourselves, another species of slavery, not less ruinous
+in its tendency, and not less criminal in the sight of God--we mean the
+slavery by strong drink. We feel too much ashamed of the sad preëminence
+which these nations have acquired in regard to this vice to take any
+offence at the reproaches cast upon us from across the Atlantic. Such
+smiting shall not break our head. We are anxious to profit by it. Yet
+when it is used as an argument to justify slavery, or to silence our
+respectful but earnest remonstrances, we take exception to the
+parallelism on which these arguments are made to rest. We do not justify
+our slavery. We do not try to defend it from the Scriptures. We do not
+make laws to uphold it. The unhappy victims of our slavery have all
+forged and riveted their own fetters. We implore them to forbear; but,
+alas! in many cases without success. We invite them to be free, and
+offer our best assistance to undo their bonds. When a fugitive slave
+knocks at our door, escaping from a cruel master, we try to accost him
+in the spirit or in the words of a well-known philanthropist, "Come in,
+brother, and get warm, and get thy breakfast." And when distinguished
+American philanthropists, who have done so much to undo the heavy
+burdens in their own land, come over to assist us, we hail their advent
+with rejoicing, and welcome them as benefactors. We are well aware that
+a corresponding feeling would be manifested in the United States by a
+portion, doubtless a large portion, of the population; but certainly not
+by those who justify or palliate their own oppression by a reference to
+our lamentable intemperance.
+
+We rejoice, madam, to know that as abstainers we can claim an important
+place, pot only in your sympathies, but in your literary labors. We
+offer our hearty thanks for the valuable contributions you have already
+furnished in that momentous cause, and for the efforts of that
+distinguished family with which you are connected.
+
+We bear our testimony to the mighty impulse imparted to the public mind
+by the extensive circulation of those memorable sermons which your
+honored father gave to Europe, as well as to America, more than
+twenty-five years ago. It will be pleasing to him to know that the force
+of his arguments is felt in British universities to the present time,
+and that not only students in augmenting numbers, but learned
+professors, acknowledge their cogency and yield to their power.
+
+Permit us to add that a movement has already begun, in an influential
+quarter in England, for the avowed purpose of combining the patriotism
+and Christianity of these nations in a strenuous agitation for the
+suppression, by the legislature, of the traffic in alcoholic drinks.
+
+In conclusion, the committee have only further to express their cordial
+thanks for your kindness in receiving their address, and their desire
+and prayer that you may be long spared to glorify God, by promoting the
+highest interests of man; that if it so please him, you may live to see
+the glorious fruit of your labors here cm earth, and that hereafter you
+may meet the blessed salutation, "Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one
+of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it unto me."
+
+NORMAN S. KERR, _Secretary_.
+
+STEWART BATES, _President_.
+
+GLASGOW, 25th April, 1853.
+
+
+LOUD MAYOR'S DINNER AT THE MANSION HOUSE, LONDON--MAY 2.
+
+MR. JUSTICE TALFOURD,[D] having spoken of the literature of England and
+America, alluded to two distinguished authors then present. The one was
+a lady, who had shed a lustre on the literature of America, and whose
+works were deeply engraven on every English heart. He spoke
+particularly of the consecration of so much genius to so noble a
+cause--the cause of humanity; and expressed the confident hope that the
+great American people would see and remedy the wrongs so vividly
+depicted. The learned judge, having paid an eloquent tribute to the
+works of Mr. Charles Dickens, concluded by proposing "Mr. Charles
+Dickens and the literature of the Anglo-Saxons."
+
+Mr. CHARLES DICKENS returned thanks. In referring to Mrs. H.B. Stowe, he
+observed that, in returning thanks, he could not forget he was in the
+presence of a stranger who was the authoress of a noble book, with a
+noble purpose. But he had no right to call her a stranger, for she would
+find a welcome in every English home.
+
+
+STAFFORD HOUSE RECEPTION--MAY 7.
+
+The DUKE OF SUTHERLAND having introduced Mrs. Stowe to the assembly, the
+following short address was read and presented to her by the EARL OF
+SHAFTESBURY:--
+
+"Madam: I am deputed by the Duchess of Sutherland, and the ladies of the
+two committees appointed to conduct 'The Address from the Women of
+England, to the Women of America on the Subject of Slavery,' to express
+the high gratification they feel in your presence amongst them this day.
+
+"The address, which has received considerably more than half a million
+of the signatures of the women of Great Britain and Ireland, they have
+already transmitted to the United States, consigning it to the care of
+those whom you have nominated as fit and zealous persons to undertake
+the charge in your absence.
+
+"The earnest desire of these committees, and, indeed, we may say of the
+whole kingdom, is to cultivate the most friendly and affectionate
+relations between the two countries; and we cannot but believe that we
+are fostering such a feeling when we avow our deep admiration of an
+American lady who, blessed by the possession of vast genius and
+intellectual powers, enjoys the still higher blessing, that she devotes
+them to the glory of God and the temporal and eternal interests of the
+human race."
+
+The following is a copy of the address to which Lord Shaftesbury makes
+reference:--
+
+"_The affectionate and Christian Address of many thousands of Women of
+Great Britain and Ireland to their Sisters, the Women of the United
+States of America_.
+
+"A common origin, a common faith, and, we sincerely believe, a common
+cause, urge us at the present moment to address you on the subject of
+that system of negro slavery which still prevails so extensively, and
+even under kindly-disposed masters, with such frightful results, in many
+of the vast regions of the western world.
+
+"We will not dwell on the ordinary topics--on the progress of
+civilization; on the advance of freedom every where; on the rights and
+requirements of the nineteenth century; but we appeal to you very
+seriously to reflect, and to ask counsel of God, how far such a state
+of things is in accordance with his holy word, the inalienable rights of
+immortal souls, and the pure and merciful spirit of the Christian
+religion.
+
+"We do not shut our eyes to the difficulties, nay, the dangers, that
+might beset the immediate abolition of that long-established system; we
+see and admit the necessity of preparation for so great an event; but in
+speaking of indispensable preliminaries, we cannot be silent on those
+laws of your country which, in direct contravention of God's own law,
+instituted in the time of man's innocency, deny, in effect, to the slave
+the sanctity of marriage, with all its joys, rights, and obligations;
+which separate, at the will of the master, the wife from the husband,
+and the children from the parents. Nor can we be silent on that awful
+system which, either by statute or by custom, interdicts to any race of
+men, or any portion of the human family, education in the truths of the
+gospel, and the ordinances of Christianity.
+
+"A remedy applied to these two evils alone would commence the
+amelioration of their sad condition. We appeal to you, then, as sisters,
+as wives, and as mothers, to raise your voices to your fellow-citizens,
+and your prayers to God, for the removal of this affliction from the
+Christian world. We do not say these things in a spirit of
+self-complacency, as though our nation were free from the guilt it
+perceives in others. We acknowledge with grief and shame our heavy share
+in this great sin. We acknowledge that our forefathers introduced, nay,
+compelled the adoption of slavery in those mighty colonies. We humbly
+confess it before Almighty God; and it is because we so deeply feel, and
+so unfeignedly avow, our own complicity, that we now venture to implore
+your aid to wipe away our common crime, and our common dishonor."
+
+
+CONGREGATIONAL UNION--MAY 13.
+
+The REV. JOHN ANGELL JAMES said, "I will only for one moment revert to
+the resolution.[E] It does equal honor to the head, and the heart, and
+the pen of the man who drew it. Beautiful in language, Christian in
+spirit, noble and generous in design, it is just such a resolution as I
+shall be glad to see emanate from the Congregational body, and find its
+way across the Atlantic to America. Sir, we speak most powerfully, when,
+though we speak firmly, we speak in kindness; and there is nothing in
+that resolution that can, by possibility, offend the most fastidious
+taste of any individual present, or any individual in the world, who
+takes the same views of the evil of slavery, in itself, as we do. [Hear,
+hear!] I shall not trespass long upon the attention of this audience,
+for we are all impatient to hear Professor Stowe speak in his own name,
+and in the name of that distinguished lady whom it is his honor and his
+happiness to call his wife. [Loud cheers.] His station and his
+acquirements, his usefulness in America, his connection with our body,
+his representation of the Pilgrim Fathers who bore the light of
+Christianity to his own country, all make him welcome here. [Cheers.]
+But he will not be surprised if it is not on his own account merely that
+we give him welcome, but also on account of that distinguished woman to
+whom so marked an allusion has already been made. To her, I am sure, we
+shall tender no praise, except the praise that comes to her from a
+higher source than ours; from One who has, by the testimony of her own
+conscience, echoing the voice from above, said to her, 'Well done, good
+and faithful servant.' Long, sir, may it be before the completion of the
+sentence; before the welcome shall be given to her, when she shall hear
+him say, 'Enter thou into the joy of thy Lord.' [Loud cheers.] But,
+though we praise her not, or praise with chastened language, we would
+say, Madam, we do thank you from the bottom of our hearts, [Hear, hear!
+and immense cheering,] for rising up to vindicate our outraged humanity;
+for rising up to expound the principles of our still nobler
+Christianity. For my own part, it is not merely as an exposition of the
+evils of slavery that makes me hail that wondrous volume to our country
+and to the world; but it is the living exposition of the principles of
+the gospel that it contains, and which will expound those principles to
+many an individual who would not hear them from our lips, nor read them
+from our pens. I maintain, that Uncle Tom is one of the most beautiful
+imbodiments of the Christian religion that was ever presented in this
+world. [Loud cheers.] And it is that which makes me take such delight in
+it. I rejoice that she killed him. [Laughter and cheers.] He must die
+under the slave lash--he must die, the martyr of slavery, and receive
+the crown of martyrdom from both worlds for his testimony to the truth.
+[Turning to Mrs. Stowe, Mr. James continued:] May the Lord God reward
+you for what you have done; we cannot, madam--we cannot do it. [Cheers.]
+We rejoice in the perfect assurance, in the full confidence, that the
+arrow which is to pierce the system of slavery to the heart has been
+shot, and shot by a female hand. Right home to the mark it will go.
+[Cheers.] It is true, the monster may groan and struggle for a long
+while yet; but die it will; die it must--under the potency of that book.
+[Loud cheers.] It never can recover. It will be your satisfaction,
+perhaps, in this world, madam, to see the reward of your labors. Heaven
+grant that your life may be prolonged, until such time as you see the
+reward of your labors in the striking off of the last fetter of the last
+slave that still pollutes the soil of your beloved country. [Cheers.]
+For beloved it is; and I should do dishonor to your patriotism if I did
+not say it--beloved it is; and you are prepared to echo the sentiments,
+by changing the terms, which we often hear in old England, and say,--
+
+  'America! with all thy faults I love thee still!'
+
+But still more intense will be my affection, and pure and devoted the
+ardor of my patriotism, when this greatest of all thine ills, this
+darkest of the blots upon thine escutcheon, shall be wiped out forever."
+[Loud applause.]
+
+The REV. PROFESSOR STOWE rose amid loud, and repeated cheers, and said,
+"It is extremely painful for me to speak on the subject of American
+slavery, and especially out of the borders of my own country. [Hear,
+hear!] I hardly know whether painful or pleasurable emotions
+predominate, when I look upon the audience to which I speak. I feel a
+very near affinity to the Congregationalists of England, and especially
+to the Congregationalists of London. [Cheers.] My ancestors were
+residents of London; at least, from the time of Edward III.; they lived
+in Cornhill and Leadenhall Street, and their bones lie buried in the old
+church of St. Andrew Under-Shaft; and, in the year 1632, on account of
+their nonconformity, they were obliged to seek refuge in the State of
+Massachusetts; and I have always felt a love and a veneration for the
+Congregational churches of England, more than for any other churches in
+any foreign land. [Cheers.] I can only hope, that my conduct, as a
+religious man and a minister of Christ, may not bring discredit upon my
+ancestors, and upon the honorable origin which I claim. [Hear! and
+cheers.] I wish to say, in the first place, that in the United States
+the Congregational churches, as a body, are free from slavery. [Cheers.]
+I do not think that there is a Congregational church in the United
+States in which a member could openly hold a slave without subjecting
+himself to discipline.[F] True, I have met with churches very deficient
+in their duty on this subject, and I am afraid there are members of
+Congregational churches who hold slaves secretly as security for debt in
+the Southern States. At the last great Congregational Convention, held
+in the city of Albany, the churches took a step on the subject of
+slavery much in advance of any other great ecclesiastical body in the
+country. I hope it is but the beginning of a series of measures that
+will eventuate in the separation of this body from all connection with
+slavery. [Hear, hear!] I am extensively acquainted with the United
+States; I have lived in different sections of them; I am familiar with
+people of all classes, and it is my solemn conviction, that nine tenths
+of the people feel on the subject of slavery as you do;[G] [cheers;]
+perhaps not so intensely, for familiarity with wrong deadens the
+conscience; but their convictions are altogether as yours are; and in
+the slaveholding states, and among slaveholders themselves, conscience
+is against the system. [Cheers.] There is no legislative control of the
+subject of slavery, except by slaveholding legislators themselves.
+Congress has no right to do any thing in the premises. They violated the
+constitution, as I believe, in passing the Fugitive Slave Act. [Cheers.]
+I do not believe they had any right to pass it. [Hear, hear!] I stand
+here not as the representative of any body whatever. I only represent
+myself, and give you my individual convictions, that have been produced
+by a long and painful connection with the subject. [Hear, hear!] As to
+the resolution, I approve it entirely. Its sentiment and its spirit are
+my own. [Cheers.] At the close of the revolutionary war, which separated
+the colonies from the mother country, every state of the Union was a
+slaveholding state; every colony was a slaveholding colony; and now we
+have seventeen free states. [Cheers.] Slavery has been abolished in one
+half of the original colonies, and it was declared that there should be
+neither slavery nor the slave trade in any territory north and west of
+the Ohio River; so that all that part is entirely free from actual
+active participation in this curse, laying open a free territory that, I
+think, must be ten times larger in extent than Great Britain. [Loud
+cheers.] The State of Massachusetts was the first in which slavery
+ceased. How did it cease? By an enactment of the legislature? Not at
+all. They did not feel there was any necessity for such an enactment.
+The Bill of Rights declared, that all men were born free, and that they
+had an equal right to the pursuit of happiness and the acquisition of
+property. In contradiction to that, there were slaves in every part of
+Massachusetts; and some philanthropic individual advised a slave to
+bring into court an action for wages against his master during all his
+time of servitude. The action was brought, and the court decided that
+the negro was entitled to wages during the whole period. [Cheers.] That
+put an end to slavery in Massachusetts, and that decision ought to have
+put an end to slavery in all states of the Union, because the law
+applied to all. They abolished slavery in all the Northern States--in
+Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Connecticut, and Rhode Island; and it was
+expected that the whole of the states would follow the example. When I
+was a child, I never heard a lisp in defence of slavery. [Hear, hear,
+hear!] Every body condemned it; all looked upon it as a great curse, and
+all regarded it as a temporary evil, which would soon melt away before
+the advancing light of truth. [Hear, hear!] But still there was great
+injustice done to those who had been slaves. Every body regarded the
+colored race as a degraded race; they were looked upon as inferior; they
+were not upon terms of social equality. The only thing approaching it
+was, that the colored children attended the schools with the white
+children, and took their places on the same forms; but in all other
+respects they were excluded from the common advantages and privileges of
+society. In the places of worship they were seated by themselves; and
+that difference always existed till these discussions came up, and they
+began to feel mortified at their situation; and hence, wherever they
+could, they had worship by themselves, and began to build places of
+worship for themselves; and now you will scarcely find a colored person
+occupying a seat in our places of worship. This stain still remains, and
+it is but a type of the feeling that has been generated by slavery. This
+ought to be known and understood, and this is just one of the
+out-croppings of that inward feeling that still is doing great injustice
+to the colored race; but there are symptoms of even that giving way.
+
+"I suppose you all remember Dr. Pennington--[cheers]--a colored minister
+of great talent and excellence--[Hear, hear!]--though born a slave, and
+for many years was a fugitive slave. [Hear, hear.] Dr. Pennington is a
+member of the presbytery of New York; and within the last six months he
+has been chosen moderator of that presbytery. [Loud cheers.] He has
+presided in that capacity at the ordination of a minister to one of the
+most respectable churches of that city. So far so good--we rejoice in
+it, and we hope that the same sense of justice which has brought about
+that change, so that a colored man can be moderator of a Presbytery in
+the city of New York, will go on, till full justice is done to these
+people, and until the grievous wrongs to which they have been subjected
+will be entirely done away. [Cheers.] But still, what is the aspect
+which the great American nation now presents to the Christian world?
+Most sorry am I to say it; but it is just this--a Christian republic
+upholding slavery--the only great nation on earth that does uphold it--a
+great Christian republic, which, so far as the white people are
+concerned, is the fairest and most prosperous nation on earth--that
+great Christian republic using all the power of its government to secure
+and to shield this horrible institution of negro slavery from
+aggression; and there is no subject on which the government is so
+sensitive--there is no institution which it manifests such a
+determination to uphold. [Hear, hear!] And then the most melancholy fact
+of all is, that the entire Christian church in that republic, with few
+exceptions, are silent, or are apologists for this great wrong. [Hear,
+hear!] It makes my heart bleed to think of it; and there are many
+praying and weeping in secret places over this curse, whose voices are
+not heard. There is such a pressure on the subject, it is so mixed up
+with other things, that many sigh over it who know not what to say or
+what to do in reference to it. And what kind of slavery is it? Is it
+like the servitude under the Mosaic law, which is brought forward to
+defend it? Nothing like it. Let me read you a little extract from a
+correspondent of a New York paper, writing from Paris. I will read it,
+because it is so graphic, and because I wish to show from what sources
+you may best ascertain the real nature of American slavery. The
+commercial newspapers, published by slaveholders, in slaveholding
+states, will give you a far more graphic idea of what slavery actually
+is, than you have from Uncle Tom's Cabin; for there the most horrible
+features are softened. This writer says, 'And now a word on American
+representatives abroad. I have already made my complaint of the troubles
+brought on Americans here by that "incendiary" book of Mrs. Stowe's,
+especially of the difficulty we have in making the French understand our
+institutions. But there was one partially satisfactory way of answering
+their questions, by saying that Uncle Tom's Cabin was a romance. And
+this would have served the purpose pretty well, and spared our blushes
+for the model republic, if the slaveholders themselves would only
+withhold their testimony to the truth of what we were willing to let
+pass as fiction. But they are worse than Mrs. Stowe herself, and their
+writings are getting to be quoted here quite extensively. The _Moniteur_
+of to-day, and another widely-circulated journal that lies on my table,
+both contain extracts from those extremely incendiary periodicals, _The
+National Intelligencer_, of February 11, and _The N.O. Picayune_, of
+February 17. The first gives an auctioneer's advertisement of the sale
+of "a negro boy of eighteen years, a negro girl aged sixteen, three
+horses, saddles, bridles, wheelbarrows," &c. Then follows an account of
+the sale, which reads very much like the description, in the dramatic
+_feuilletons_ here, of a famous scene in the _Case de l'Oncle Tom_, as
+played at the _Ambigu Comique_. The second extract is the advertisement
+of "our esteemed fellow-citizen, Mr. M.C.G.," who presents his "respects
+to the inhabitants of O. and the neighbouring parishes," and "informs
+them that he keeps a fine pack of dogs trained to catch negroes," &c. It
+is painful to think that there are men in our country who will write,
+and that there are others found to publish, such tales as these about
+our peculiar institution. I put it to Mr. G., if he thinks it is
+patriotic. As a "fellow-citizen," and in his private relations, G. may
+be an estimable man, for aught I know, a Christian and a scholar, and an
+ornament to the social circles of O. and the neighboring parishes. But
+as an author, G. becomes public property, and a fair theme for
+criticism; and in that capacity, I say G. is publishing the shame of his
+country. I call him G., without the prefatory Mister, not from any
+personal disrespect, much as I am grieved at his course as a writer, but
+because he is now breveted for immortality, and goes down to posterity,
+like other immortals, without titular prefix.' [Cheers.] Now, here is
+where you get the true features of slavery. What is the reason that the
+churches, as a general thing, are silent--that some of them are
+apologists, and that some, in the extreme Southern States, actually
+defend slavery, and say it is a good institution, and sanctioned by
+Scripture? It is simply this--the overwhelming power of the slave
+system; and whence comes that overwhelming power? It comes from its
+great influence in the commercial world. [Hear!] Until the time that
+cotton became so extensively an article of export, there was not a word
+said in defence of slavery, as far as I know, in the United States. In
+1818, the Presbyterian General Assembly passed resolutions unanimously
+on the subject of slavery, to which this resolution is mildness itself;
+and not a man could be found to say one word against it. But cotton
+became a most valuable article of export. In one form and another, it
+became intimately associated with the commercial affairs of the whole
+country. The northern manufacturers were intimately connected with this
+cotton trade, and more than two thirds raised in the United States has
+been sold in Great Britain; and it is this cotton trade that supports
+the whole system. That you may rely upon. The sugar and rice, so far as
+the United States are concerned, are but small interests. The system is
+supported by this cotton trade, and within two days I have seen an
+article written with vigor in the _Charleston Mercury_, a southern paper
+of great influence, saying, that the slaveholders are becoming isolated,
+by the force of public opinion, from the rest of the world. They are
+beginning to be regarded as inhuman tyrants, and the slaves the victims
+of their cruelty; but, says the writer, just so long as you take our
+cotton, we shall have our slaves. Now, you are as really involved in
+this matter as we are--[Hear, hear!]--and if you have no other right to
+speak on the subject, you have a right to speak from being yourselves
+very active participators in the wrong. You have a great deal of feeling
+on the subject, honorable and generous feeling, I know--an earnest,
+philanthropic, Christian feeling; but if you have nothing to do, that
+feeling will all evaporate, and leave an apathy behind. Now, here is
+something to be done. It may be a small beginning, but, as you go
+forward, Providence will develop other plans, and the more you do, the
+further you will see. I am happy to know that a beginning has been made.
+There are indications that a way has been so opened in providence that
+this exigency can be met. Within the last few years, the Chinese have
+begun to emigrate to the western parts of the United States. They will
+maintain themselves on small wages; and wherever they come into actual
+competition with slave labor, it cannot compete with them. Very many of
+the slaveholders have spoken of this as a very remarkable indication. If
+slavery had been confined to the original slave states, as it was
+intended, slavery could not have lived. It was the intention that it
+should never go beyond those boundaries. Had this been the case, it
+would increase the number of slaves so much that they would have been
+valueless as articles of property. I must say this for America, that the
+slaves increase in the slave states faster than the white people; and it
+shows that their physical condition is better than was that of the
+slaves at the West Indies, or in Cuba, where the number actually
+diminished. We must have more slave territories to make our slaves
+valuable, and there was the origin of that iniquitous Mexican war,
+whereby was added the vast territory of Texas; and then it was the
+intention to make California a slave state; but, I am happy to say, it
+has been received into the Union as a free state, and God grant it may
+continue so. [Hear, hear!] What has been the effect of this expansion of
+slave territory? It has doubled the value of slaves. Since I can
+remember, a strong slave man would sell for about four hundred or six
+hundred dollars--that is, about one hundred pounds; but now, during the
+present season, I have known instances in which a slave man has been
+sold for two hundred and thirty pounds. There are more slaves raised in
+Virginia and Maryland than they can use in those states in labor, and,
+therefore, they sell them at one hundred, two hundred, or three hundred
+pounds, as the case may be, for cash. All that Mrs. Tyler intimates in
+that letter about slavery in America, and the impression it is
+calculated and intended to convey, that they treat their slaves so well,
+and do not separate their families, and so forth, is all mere humbug.
+[Laughter and cheers.] It is well known that Virginia has more profit
+from selling negroes than from any other source. The great sources of
+profit are tobacco and negroes, and they derive more from the sale of
+negroes than tobacco. You see the temptation this gives to avarice.
+Suppose there is a man with no property, except fifteen or twenty negro
+men, whom he can sell, each one for two hundred pounds, cash; and he has
+as many negro women, whom he can sell for one hundred and fifty pounds,
+cash, and the children for one hundred pounds each: here is a temptation
+to avarice; and it is calculated to silence the voice of conscience; and
+it is the expansion of the slave territory, and the immense mercantile
+value of the cotton, that has brought so powerful an influence to bear
+on the United States in favor of slavery. [Hear, hear.] Now, as to free
+labor coming into competition with slave labor: You will see, that when
+the price of slaves is so enormous, it requires an immense outlay to
+stock a plantation. A good plantation would take two hundred, or three
+hundred hands. Now, say for every hand employed on this plantation, the
+man must pay on an average two hundred pounds, which is not exorbitant
+at the present time. If he has to pay at this rate, what an immense
+outlay of capital to begin with, and how great the interest on that sum
+continually accumulating! And then there is the constant exposure to
+loss. These plantation negroes are very careless of life, and often
+cholera gets among them, and sweeps off twenty-five or thirty in a few
+days; and then there is the underground railroad, and, with all the
+precautions that can be taken, it continues to work. And now you see
+what an immense risk, and exposure to loss, and a vast outlay of
+capital, there is in connection with this system. But, if a man takes a
+cotton farm, and can employ Chinese laborers, he can get them for one or
+two shillings a day, and they will do the work as well, if not better
+than negroes, and there is no outlay or risk. [Hear, hear!]. If good
+cotton fields can be obtained, as they may in time, here is an opening
+which will tend to weaken the slave system. If Christians will
+investigate this subject, and if philanthropists generally will pursue
+these inquiries in an honest spirit, it is not long before we shall see
+a movement throughout the civilized world, and the upholders of slavery
+will feel, where they feel most acutely--in their pockets. Until
+something of this kind is done, I despair of accomplishing any great
+amount of good by simple appeals to the conscience and right principle.
+There are a few who will listen to conscience and a sense of right, but
+there are unhappily only a few. I suppose, though you have good
+Christians here, you have many who will put their consciences in their
+pockets. [Hear, hear!] I have known cases of this kind. There was a
+young lady in the State of Virginia who was left an orphan, and she had
+no property except four negro slaves, who were of great commercial
+value. She felt that slavery was wrong, and she could not hold them. She
+gave them their freedom--[cheers]--and supported herself by teaching a
+small school. [Cheers.] Now, notwithstanding all the unfavorable things
+we see--notwithstanding the dark cloud that hangs over the country,
+there are hopeful indications that God has not forgotten us, and that he
+will carry on this work till it is accomplished. [Hear!] But it will be
+a long while first, I fear; and we must pray, and labor, and persevere;
+for he that perseveres to the end, and he only, receives the crown. Now,
+there are very few in the United States who undertake to defend slavery,
+and say it is right. But the great majority, even of professors of
+religion, unite to shield it from aggression. 'It is the law of the
+land,' they say, 'and we must submit to it.' It seems a strange doctrine
+to come from the lips of the descendants of the Puritans, those who
+resisted the law of the land because those laws were against their
+conscience, and finally went over to that new world, in order that they
+might enjoy the rights of conscience. How would it have been with the
+primitive church if this doctrine had prevailed? There never would have
+been any Christian church, for that was against the laws of the land. In
+regard to the distribution of the Bible, in many states the laws
+prohibit the teaching of slaves, and the distribution of the Bible is
+not allowed among them. The American Bible Society does not itself take
+the responsibility of this. It leaves the whole matter to the local
+societies in the several states, and it is the local societies that take
+the responsibility. Well, why should we obey the law of the land in
+South Carolina on this subject, and disobey the law of the land in
+Italy? But our missionary societies and Bible societies send Bibles to
+other parts of the world, and never ask if it is contrary to the law of
+these lands, and if it is, they push it all the more zealously. They
+send Bibles to Italy and Spain, and yet the Bible is prohibited by those
+governments. The American Tract Society and the American Sunday School
+Union allow none of their issues to utter a syllable against slavery.
+They expunge even from their European books every passage of this kind,
+and excuse themselves by the law and the public sentiment. So are the
+people taught. There has been a great deal said on the subject of
+influence from abroad; but those who talk in that way interfered with
+the persecution of the Madiai, and remonstrated with the Tuscan
+government. We have had large meetings on the subject in New York, and
+those who refuse the Bible to the slave took part in that meeting, and
+did not seem to think there was any inconsistency in their conduct.
+
+"The Christian church knows no distinction of nations. In that church
+there is neither Greek nor Jew, Barbarian, Scythian, bond nor free, but
+all are one in Christ; and whatever affects one part of the body affects
+the other, and the whole Christian church every where is bound to help,
+and encourage, and rebuke, as the case may require. The Christian church
+is every where bound to its corresponding branch in every other country;
+and thus you have, not only a right, but it is your duty, to consider
+the case of the American slave with just the same interest with which
+you consider the cause of the native Hindoo, when you send out your
+missionaries there, or with which you consider Madagascar; and to
+express yourselves in a Christian spirit, and in a Christian way
+continually, till you see that your admonitions have had a suitable
+influence. I do not doubt what you say, that you will receive with great
+pleasure men who come from the United States to promote the cause of
+temperance, and you may have the opportunity of showing your sincerity
+before long; and the manner in which you receive them will have a very
+important bearing on the subject of slavery. [Cheers.] I have not the
+least doubt you will hail with joy those who will come across the
+Atlantic to advance and promote still more earnestly those noble
+institutions, the ragged schools and the ragged churches. [Cheers.] The
+men who want to do good at home are the men who do good abroad; and the
+same spirit of Christian liberality that leads you to feel for the
+American slave will lead you to care for your own poor, and those in
+adverse circumstances in your own land, I would ask, Is it possible,
+then, that admonition and reproof given in a Christian spirit, and by a
+Christian heart, can fail to produce a right influence on a Christian
+spirit and a Christian heart? I think the thing is utterly impossible;
+and that if such admonitions as are contained in the resolution,
+conceived in such a spirit, and so kindly expressed--if they are not
+received in a Christian spirit, it is because the Christian spirit has
+unhappily fled. I can answer for myself, at least, and many of my
+brethren, that it will be so; and, so far from desiring you to withhold
+your expressions on account of any bad feeling that they might excite, I
+wish you to reiterate them, and reiterate them in the same spirit in
+which they are given in this resolution; for I believe that these
+expressions of impatience and petulance represent the feelings of very
+few. Who is it that always speaks first? The angry man, and it comes out
+at once; but the wise man keeps it in till afterwards; and it will not
+be long before you will find, that whatever you say in a Christian
+spirit will be responded to on the other side of the water. Now, I
+believe our churches have neglected their duty on this subject, and are
+still neglecting it. Many do not seem to know what their duty is. Yet I
+believe them to be good, conscientious men, and men who will do their
+duty when they know what it is. Take, for example, the American Board of
+Foreign Missions. There are not better men, or more conscientious men,
+on the face of the earth, or men more sincerely desirous of doing their
+duty; yet, in some things, I believe they are mistaken. I think it would
+be better to throw over the very few churches connected with the Board
+which are slaveholding, than to endeavor to sustain them, and to have
+all this pressure of responsibility still upon them. But yet they are
+pursuing the course which they conscientiously think to be right.
+Christian admonition will not be lost upon them.[H] I will say the same
+of the American Home Missionary Society. They have little to do with
+slavery, as I have already remarked. Many think they ought not to say
+any thing upon the subject, because they cannot do so without weakening
+their influence. But then this question comes: If good men do not speak,
+who will?--[Hear, hear!]--and, as our Savior said in regard to the
+children that shouted, Hosannah, 'If these should hold their peace, the
+stones would immediately cry out.' It is in consequence of their silence
+that stones have begun to cry out, and they rebuke the silence and
+apathy of good men; and this is made an argument against religion, which
+has had effect with unthinking people; so I think it absolutely
+necessary that men in the church, on that very ground, should speak out
+their mind on this great subject at whatever risk--[cheers]--and they
+must take the consequences. In due time God will prosper the right, and
+in due time the fetters will fall from every slave, and the black man
+will have the same privileges as the white. [Applause.]"
+
+
+ROYAL HIGHLAND SCHOOL SOCIETY DINNER, AT THE FREEMASON'S TAVERN,
+LONDON--MAY 14.
+
+The Chairman, Sir ARCHIBALD ALISON, gave "The health of her Grace the
+Duchess of Sutherland, and the noble patronesses of the Society," which
+was received with great applause. It was extremely gratifying, he said,
+to find a lady, belonging to one of the most ancient and noblest
+families of the kingdom, displaying so great an interest in their
+institution. [Cheers.] Not the least of their obligations to her Grace
+was the opportunity she had given them to offer their respects to a
+lady, remarkable alike for her genius and her philanthropy, who had come
+from across the Atlantic, and who, by her philanthropic exertions in the
+cause of negro emancipation, had enlisted the feelings and called forth
+the sympathies of thousands and tens of thousands on both sides of the
+ocean. [Tremendous cheering.] She had shown that the genius, and
+talents, and energies, which such a cause inspired, had created a
+species of freemasonry throughout the world; it had set aside
+nationalities, and bound two nations together which the broad Atlantic
+could not sever; and created a union of sentiment and purpose which he
+trusted would continue till the great work of negro emancipation had
+been finally accomplished. [Cheers.]
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE responded to the allusion which had been made to Mrs.
+Stowe, and was greeted with hearty applause. He said he had read in his
+childhood the writings of Sir Walter Scott, and thus became intensely
+interested in all that pertained to Scotland. [Cheers.] He had read,
+more recently, his Life of Napoleon, and also Sir Archibald Alison's
+History of Europe. [Protracted cheers.] But he certainly never expected
+to be called upon to address such an assembly as that, and under such
+circumstances. Nothing could exceed the astonishment which was felt by
+himself and Mrs. Stowe at the cordiality of their reception in every
+part of Great Britain, from persons of every rank in life. [Cheers.]
+Every body seemed to have read her book. [Hear, hear! and loud cheers.]
+Everyone seemed to have been deeply interested, [cheers,] and disposed
+to return a full-hearted homage to the writer. But all she claimed
+credit for was truth, and honesty, and earnestness of purpose. He had
+only to add that he cordially thanked the Royal Highland School Society
+for the kindness which induced them to invite him and Mrs. Stowe to be
+present that evening. [Cheers.] The work in which the society was
+engaged was one that they both held dear, and in which they felt the
+deepest interest, inasmuch as that object was to promote the education
+of youth among those whose poverty rendered them unable to provide the
+means of education for themselves. [Hear, hear!] In such works as that
+they had themselves for most of their lives been diligently engaged.
+[Cheers.]
+
+
+ANTISLAVERY SOCIETY, EXETER HALL--MAY 16.
+
+THE EARL OF SHAFTESBURY, who, on coming forward to open the proceedings,
+was received with much applause, spoke as follows: "We are assembled
+here this night to protest, with the utmost intensity, and with all the
+force which language can command, against the greatest wrong that the
+wickedness of man ever perpetrated upon his fellow-man--[loud cheers]--a
+wrong which, great in all ages--great in heathen times--great in all
+countries--great even under heathen sentiments--is indescribably
+monstrous in Christian days, and exercised as it is, not unfrequently,
+over Christian people. [Hear!] It is surely remarkable, and exceedingly
+disgraceful to a century and a generation so boastful of its progress,
+and of the institution of so many Bible societies, with so many
+professions and preachments of Christianity--with so many declarations
+of the spiritual value of man before God--after so many declarations of
+this equality of every man in the sight of his fellow-man--that we
+should be assembled here this evening to protest against the conduct of
+a mighty and a Protestant people, who, in the spirit of the Romish
+Babylon, which they had renounced, resort to her most abominable
+practices--making merchandise of the temples of God, and trafficking in
+the bodies and souls of men. [Cheers.] We are not here to proclaim and
+maintain our own immaculate purity. We are not here to stand forward and
+say, 'I am holier than thou.' We have confessed, and that openly, and
+freely, and unreservedly, our share, our heavy share, in by-gone days,
+of vast wickedness; we have, we declare it again, and we had our deep
+remorse. We sympathize with the preponderating bulk of the American
+people; we acknowledge and we feel the difficulties which beset them; we
+rejoice and we believe in their good intentions; but we have no
+patience--I at least have none--with those professed leaders, be they
+political or be they clerical, who mislead the people--with those who,
+blasphemously resting slavery on the Holy Scriptures, desecrate their
+pulpits by the promulgation of doctrines better suited to the synagogue
+of Satan--[cheers]--nor with that gentleman who, the greatest officer of
+the greatest republic in the whole world, in pronouncing an inaugural
+address to the assembled multitudes, maintains the institution of
+slavery; and--will you believe it?--invokes the Almighty God to maintain
+those rights, and thus sanction the violation of his own laws!--[Cries
+of 'Shame!'] This is, indeed, a dismal prospect for those who tremble at
+human power; but we have this consolation: Is it not said that, 'When
+the enemy shall come in like a flood, the Spirit of the Lord shall lift
+up a standard against him?' [Hear, hear!] He has done so now, and a most
+wonderful and almost inspired protector has arisen for the suffering of
+this much injured race. [Loud cheers.] Feeble as her sex, but
+irresistible as virtue and as truth, she will prove to her adversary,
+and to ours, that such boasting shall not be for his honor, 'for the
+Lord will sell Sisera into the hands of a woman.' [Hear, hear! and loud
+cheers.] Now, I ask you this: Is there one of you who believes that the
+statements of that marvellous book to which we have alluded present an
+exaggerated picture?--[Tremendous cries of 'No, no.'] Do they not know,
+say what they will, that the truth is not fully stated? [Hear, hear!]
+The reality is worse than the fiction. [Hear, hear!] But, apart from
+this, there is our solemn declaration that the vileness of the principle
+is at once exhibited in the mere notion of slavery, and the atrocities
+of it are the natural and almost inevitable consequences of the
+profession and exercise of absolute and irresponsible power. [Hear,
+hear!] But do you doubt the fact? Look to the document. I will quote to
+you from this book. I have never read any thing more strikingly
+illustrative or condemnatory of the system we are here to denounce. Here
+is the judgment pronounced by one of the judges in North Carolina. It is
+impossible to read this judgment, however terrible the conclusion,
+without feeling convinced that the man who pronounced it was a man of a
+great mind, and, in spite of the law he was bound to administer, a man
+of a great heart. [Hear, hear!] Hear what he says. The case was this: It
+was a 'case of appeal,' in which the defendant had hired a slave woman
+for a year. During this time she committed some slight offence, for
+which the defendant undertook to chastise her. After doing so he shot at
+her as she was running away. The question then arose, was he justified
+in using that amount of coercion? and whether the privilege of shooting
+was not confined to the actual proprietor? The case was argued at some
+length, and the court, in pronouncing judgment, began by deploring that
+any judge should ever be called upon to decide such a case, but he had
+to administer the law, and not to make it. The judge said, 'With
+whatever reluctance, therefore, the court is bound to express the
+opinion, that the dominion over a slave in Carolina has not, as it has
+been argued, any analogy with the authority of a tutor over a pupil, of
+a master over an apprentice, or of a parent over a child. The court does
+not recognize these applications. There is no likeness between them.
+They are in opposition to each other, and there is an impassable gulf
+between them. The difference is that which exists between freedom and
+slavery--[Hear, hear!]--and a greater difference cannot be imagined. In
+the one case, the end in view is the happiness of the youth, born to
+equal rights with the tutor, whose duty it is to train the young to
+usefulness by moral and intellectual instruction. If they will not
+suffice, a moderate chastisement maybe administered. But with slavery it
+is far otherwise.' Mark these words, for they contain the whole thing.
+But with slavery it is far otherwise. The end is the profit of the
+master, and the poor object is one doomed, in his own person, and in his
+posterity, to live without knowledge, and without capacity to attain any
+thing which he may call his own. He has only to labor, that another may
+reap the fruits.' [Hear, hear!] Mark! this is from the sacred bench of
+justice, pronounced by one of the first intellects in America! 'There is
+nothing else which can operate to produce the effect; the power of the
+master must be absolute, to render the submission of the slave perfect.
+[Hear, hear!] It is inherent in the relation of master and slave;' and
+then he adds those never-to-be-forgotten words, 'We cannot allow the
+right of the master to come under discussion in the courts of justice.
+The slave must be made sensible that there is no appeal from his master,
+and that his master's power is in no instance usurped; that these rights
+are conferred by the laws of man, at least, if not by the law of God.'
+[Loud cries of 'Shame, shame!'] This is the mode in which we are to
+regard these two classes of beings, both created by the same God, and
+both redeemed by the same Savior as ourselves, and destined to the same
+immortality! The judgment, on appeal, was reversed; but, God be praised;
+there is another appeal, and that appeal we make to the highest of all
+imaginable courts, where God is the judge, where mercy is the advocate,
+and where unerring truth will pronounce the decision![Protracted
+cheering.] There are some who are pleased to tell us that there is an
+inferiority in the race! That is untrue. [Cheers.] But we are not here
+to inquire whether our black brethren will become Shakspeares or
+Herschels. [Hear, hear!] I ask, are they immortal beings? [Great
+applause.] Do our adversaries, say no? I ask them, then, to show me one
+word in the handwriting of God which has thus levelled them with the
+brute beasts. [Hear, hear!] Let us bear in mind those words of our
+blessed Savior--'Whosoever shall offend one of these little ones who
+believe in me, it were better that a millstone were hanged about his
+neck, and that he were cast into the depths of the sea.' [Loud cheers.]
+Now, then, what is our duty? Is it to stand still? Yes! when we receive
+the command from the same authority that said to the sun, Stand over
+Gibeon! [Loud cheers.] Then, and not till then, will we stand still.
+[Renewed cheers.] Are we to listen to the craven and miserable talk
+about 'doing more harm than good'? [Hear, hear!] This was an argument
+which would have checked every noble enterprise which has been
+undertaken since the world began. It would have strangled Wilberforce,
+and checked the very Exodus itself from the house of bondage in Egypt.
+[Hear, hear!] Out on all such craven talk! [Cheers.] Slavery is a
+mystery, and so is all sin, and we must fight against it; and, by the
+blessing of God, we will. [Loud cheers.] We must pray to Almighty God,
+that we and our American brethren--who seem now to be the sole
+depositories of the Protestant truth, and of civil and religious
+liberty, may be as one. [Cheers.] We are feeble, if hostile; but, if
+united, we are the arbiters of the world. [Cheers.] Let us join together
+for the temporal and spiritual good of our race."
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE then came forward, and was received with unbounded
+demonstrations of applause. When the cheering had subsided, he said "he
+felt utterly exhausted by the heat and excitement of the meeting, and
+should therefore be glad to be excused from saying a single word;
+however, he would utter a few thoughts. The following was the resolution
+which he had to submit to the meeting: 'That with a view to the
+correction of public sentiment on this subject in slaveholding
+communities, it is of the first importance that those who are earnest in
+condemnation of slavery should observe consistency; and, therefore, that
+it is their duty to encourage the development of the natural resources
+of countries where slavery does not exist, and the soil of which is
+adapted to the growth of products--especially of cotton--now partially
+or chiefly raised by slave labor; and though the extinction of slavery
+is less to be expected from a diminished demand for slave produce than
+from the moral effects of a steadfast abhorrence of slavery itself, and
+from an unwavering and consistent opposition to it, this meeting would
+earnestly recommend, that in all cases where it is practicable, a
+decided preference should be given to the products of free labor, by all
+who enter their protest against slavery, so that at least they
+themselves may be clear of any participation in the guilt of the system,
+and be thus morally strengthened in their condemnation of it.' At the
+close of the revolutionary war, all the states of America were
+slaveholding states. In Massachusetts, some benevolent white man caused
+a slave to try an action for wages in a court of justice. He succeeded,
+and the consequence was, that slavery fell in Massachusetts. It was then
+universally acknowledged that slavery was a sin and shame, and ought to
+be abolished, and it was expected that it would be soon abolished in
+every state of the Union. Mr. Jefferson, Mr. Madison, and Benjamin
+Franklin would not allow the word 'slave' to occur in the constitution,
+and Mr. Edwards, from the pulpit, clearly and broadly denounced slavery.
+And when he (Professor Stowe) was a boy, in Massachusetts the negro
+children were admitted to the same schools with the whites. Although
+there was some prejudice of color then, yet it was not so strong as at
+present. In 1818, the General Assembly of the Presbyterian church in the
+United States passed, resolutions against slavery far stronger than
+those passed at the meeting this evening, and every man, north and
+south, voted for them. What had caused the change? It was the
+profitableness of the cotton trade. It was that which had spread the
+chains of slavery over the Union, and silenced the church upon the
+subject. He had been asked, what right had Great Britain to interfere?
+Why, Great Britain took four fifths of the cotton of America, and
+therefore sustained four fifths of the slavery. That gave them a right
+to interfere. [Hear, hear!] He admitted that our participation in the
+guilt was not direct, but without the cotton, trade of Great Britain
+slavery would have been abolished long ago, for the American
+manufacturers consumed but one fifth of all the cotton grown in the
+country. The conscience of the cotton growers was talked of; but had the
+cotton consumer no conscience? [Cheers.] It seemed to him that the
+British public had more direct access to the consumer than to the grower
+of cotton." Professor Stowe then read an extract from a paper published
+in Charleston, South Carolina, showing the influence of the American
+cotton trade on the slavery question. "The price of cotton regulated the
+price of slaves, who were now worth an average of two hundred pounds. A
+cotton plantation required in some cases two hundred, and in others four
+hundred slaves. This would give an idea of the capital needed. With free
+labor there was none of this outlay--there was none of those losses by
+the cholera, and the 'underground railroad,' to which the slave owners
+were subjected. [Hear, hear!] The Chinese had come over in large
+numbers, and could be hired for small wages, on which they managed to
+live well in their way. If people would encourage free-grown cotton,
+that would be the strongest appeal they could make to the slaveholder.
+There were three ways of abolishing slavery. First, by a bloody
+revolution, which few would approve. [Hear, hear!] Secondly, by
+persuading slaveholders of the wrong they commit; but this would have
+little effect so long as they bought their cotton. [Hear, hear!] And the
+third and most feasible way was, by making slave labor unprofitable, as
+compared with free labor. [Hear!] When the Chinese first began to
+emigrate to California, it was predicted that slavery would be 'run out'
+that way. He hoped it might be so. [Cheers.] The reverend gentleman then
+reverted to his previous visit to this country, seventeen years ago, and
+described the rapid strides which had been made in the work of
+education--especially the education of the poor--in the interval. It was
+most gratifying to him, and more easily seen by him than it would be by
+us, with whom the change had been gradual. He had been told in America
+that the English abolitionists were prompted by jealousy of America, but
+he had found that to be false. The Christian feeling which had dictated
+efforts on behalf of ragged schools and factory children, and the
+welfare of the poor and distressed of every kind, had caused the same
+Christian hearts to throb for the American slave. It was that Christian
+philanthropy which received all men as brethren--children of the same
+father, and therefore he had great hopes of success. [Cheers.]"
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+My remarks on the cotton business of Britain were made with entire
+sincerity, and a single-hearted desire to promote the antislavery cause.
+They are sentiments which I had long entertained, and which I had taken
+every opportunity to express with the utmost freedom from the time of my
+first landing in Liverpool, the great cotton mart of England, and where,
+if any where, they might be supposed capable of giving offence; yet no
+exception was taken to them, so far as I know, till delivered in Exeter
+Hall. There they were heard by some with surprise, and by others with
+extreme displeasure. I was even called _proslavery_, and ranked with
+Mrs. Julia Tyler, for frankly speaking the truth, under circumstances of
+great temptation to ignore it.
+
+Still I have the satisfaction of knowing that both my views and my
+motives were rightly understood and properly appreciated by
+large-hearted and clear-headed philanthropists, like the Earl of
+Shaftesbury and Joseph Sturge, and very fairly represented and commented
+upon by such religious and secular papers as the Christian Times, the
+British Banner, the London Daily News and Chronicle; and even the
+_thundering political_ Times seemed disposed, in a half-sarcastic way,
+to admit that I was more than half right.
+
+But it is most satisfactory of all to know that the best of the British
+abolitionists are now acting, promptly and efficiently, in accordance
+with those views, and are determined to develop the resources of the
+British empire for the production of cotton by free labor. The thing is
+practicable, and not of very difficult accomplishment. It is furthermore
+absolutely essential to the success of the antislavery cause; for now
+the great practical leading argument for slavery is, _Without slavery
+you can have no cotton, and cotton you must and will have_. The latest
+work that I have read in defence of slavery (Uncle Tom in Paris,
+Baltimore, 1854) says, (pp. 56-7,) "_Of the cotton which supplies the
+wants of the civilized world, the south produces 86 per cent.; and
+without slave labor experience has shown that the cotton plant cannot be
+cultivated_."
+
+How the matter is viewed by sagacious and practical minds in Britain, is
+clear from the following sentences, taken from the National Era:--
+
+"COTTON is KING.--Charles Dickens, in a late number of his Household
+Words, after enumerating the striking facts of cotton, says,--
+
+"'Let any social or physical convulsion visit the United States, and
+England would feel the shock from Land's End to John o'Groat's. The
+lives of nearly two millions of our countrymen are dependent upon the
+cotton crops of America; their destiny may be said, without any sort of
+hyperbole, to hang upon a thread.
+
+"'Should any dire calamity befall the land of cotton, a thousand of our
+merchant ships would rot idly in dock; ten thousand mills must stop
+their busy looms, and two million mouths would starve for lack of food
+to feed them.'
+
+"How many non-slaveholders elsewhere are thus interested in the products
+of slaves? Is it not worthy the attention of genuine philanthropists to
+inquire whether cotton cannot be profitably cultivated by free labor?"
+
+
+SOIRÉE AT WILLIS'S ROOMS--MAY 25.
+
+MR. JOSEPH STURGE took the chair, announcing that he did so in the
+absence of the Earl of Shaftesbury, who was prevented from attending.
+
+It was announced that letters had been received from the Duke of
+Newcastle and the Earls of Carlisle and Shaftesbury, expressing their
+sympathy with the object of the meeting, and their regret at being
+unable to attend.
+
+The Secretary, SAMUEL BOWLEY, Esq., of Gloucester, then read the
+address, which was as follows:--
+
+"MADAM: It is with feelings of the deepest interest that the committee
+of the British and Foreign Antislavery Society, on behalf of themselves
+and of the society they represent, welcome the gifted authoress of Uncle
+Tom's Cabin to the shores of Great Britain.
+
+"As humble laborers in the cause of negro emancipation, we hail, with
+emotions more easily imagined than described, the appearance of that
+remarkable work, which has awakened a world-wide sympathy on behalf of
+the suffering negro, and called forth a burst of honest indignation
+against the atrocious system of slavery, which, we trust, under the
+divine blessing, will, at no distant period, accomplish its entire
+abolition. We are not insensible to those extraordinary merits of Uncle
+Tom's Cabin, as a merely literary production, which have procured for
+its talented authoress such universal commendation and enthusiastic
+applause; but we feel it to be our duty to refer rather to the Christian
+principles and earnest piety which pervade its interesting pages, and to
+express our warmest desire, we trust we may say heartfelt prayer, that
+He who bestowed upon you the power and the grace to write such a work
+may preserve and bless you amid all your honours, and enable you, under
+a grateful and humble sense of his abundant goodness, to give him all
+the glory.
+
+"We rejoice to find that the great principles upon which our society is
+based are so fully and so cordially recognized by yourself and your
+beloved husband and brother--First, that personal slavery, in all its
+varied forms, is a direct violation of the blessed, precepts of the
+gospel, and therefore a sin in the sight of God; and secondly, that
+every victim of this unjust and sinful system is entitled to immediate
+and unconditional freedom. For, however we might acquiesce in the course
+of a nation which, under a sense of its participation in the guilt of
+slavery, should share the pecuniary loss, if such there were, of its
+immediate abolition, yet we repudiate the right to demand compensation
+for human flesh and blood, as (to employ the emphatic words of Lord
+Brougham) we repudiate and abhor 'the wild and guilty fantasy that man
+can hold property in man.' And we do not hesitate to express our
+conviction, strengthened by the experience of emancipation in our own
+colonies, that on the mere ground of social or political expediency, the
+immediate termination of slavery would be far less dangerous and far
+less injurious than, any system of compromise, or any attempt at gradual
+emancipation.
+
+"Let it be borne in mind, however,--and we record it with peculiar
+interest on the present occasion,--that it was the pen of a woman that
+first publicly enunciated the imperative duty of immediate emancipation.
+Amid vituperation and ridicule, and, far worse, the cold rebuke of
+Christian friends, Mrs. Elizabeth Heyrick boldly sent forth the
+thrilling tract which taught the abolitionists of Great Britain this
+lesson of justice and truth; and we honor her memory for her deeds.
+Again we are indebted to the pen of a woman for pleading yet more
+powerfully the cause of justice to the slave; and again we have to
+admire and honor the Christian heroism which has enabled you, dear
+madam, to brave the storm of public opinion, and to bear the frowns of
+the church in your own land, while you boldly sent forth your matchless
+volume to teach more widely and more attractively the same righteous
+lesson.
+
+"We desire to feel grateful for the measure of success that has crowned
+the advocacy of these sound antislavery principles in our own country;
+but we cannot but feel, that as regards the continuance of slavery in
+America, we have cause for humiliation and shame in the existence of the
+melancholy fact that a large proportion of the fruits of the bitter toil
+and suffering of the slaves in the western world are used to minister to
+the comfort and the luxury of our own population. When this anomaly of a
+country's putting down slavery by law on the one hand, and supporting it
+by its trade and commerce on the other, will be removed, it is not for
+us to predict; but we are conscious that our position is such as should
+at least dissipate every sentiment of self-complacency, and make us
+feel, both nationally and individually, how deep a responsibility still
+rests upon us to wash our own hands of this iniquity, and to seek by
+every legitimate means in our power to rid the world of this fearful
+institution.
+
+"True Christian philanthropy knows no geographical limits, no
+distinctions of race or color; but wherever it sees its fellow-man the
+victim of suffering and oppression, it seeks to alleviate his sorrows,
+or drops a tear of sympathy over the afflictions which it has not the
+power to remove. We cannot but believe that these enlarged and generous
+sympathies will be aroused and strengthened in the hearts of thousands
+and tens of thousands of all classes who have wept over the touching
+pages of Uncle Tom's Cabin. We have marked the rapid progress of its
+circulation from circle to circle, and from country to country, with
+feelings of thrilling interest; for we trust, by the divine blessing
+upon the softening influence and Christian sentiments it breathes, it
+will be made the harbinger of a better and brighter day for the
+happiness and the harmony of the human family. The facilities for
+international intercourse which we now possess, while they rapidly tend
+to remove those absurd jealousies which have so long existed between the
+nations of the earth, are daily increasing the power of public opinion
+in the world at large, which is so well described by one of our leading
+statesmen in these forcible words: 'It is quite true, it may be said,
+what are opinions against armies? Opinions, if they are founded in truth
+and justice, will in the end prevail against the bayonets of infantry,
+the fire of artillery, and the charges of cavalry.' Responding most
+cordially to these sentiments, we rejoice with thanksgiving to God that
+you, whom we now greet and welcome as our dear and honored friend, have
+been enabled to exemplify their beauty and their truth; for it is our
+firm conviction that the united powers of Europe, with all their
+military array, could not accomplish what you have done, through the
+medium of public opinion, for the overthrow of American slavery.
+
+"The glittering steel of the warrior, though steeped in the tyrant's
+blood, would be weak when compared with a woman's pen dipped in the milk
+of human kindness, and softened by the balm of Christian love. The words
+that have drawn a tear from the eye of the noble, and moistened the
+dusky cheek of the hardest sons of toil, shall sink into the heart and
+weaken the grasp of the slaveholder, and crimson with a blush of shame
+many an American citizen who has hitherto defended or countenanced by
+his silence this bitter reproach on the character and constitution of
+his country.
+
+"To the tender mercies of Him who died to save their immortal souls we
+commend the downcast slaves for freedom and protection, and, in the
+heart-cheering belief that you have been raised up as an honored
+instrument in God's hand to hasten the glorious work of their
+emancipation, we crave that his blessing, as well as the blessing of him
+that is ready to perish, may abundantly rest upon you and yours. With
+sentiments of the highest esteem and respect, dear madam, we
+affectionately subscribe ourselves your friends and fellow-laborers."
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE was received with prolonged cheering. He said, "Besides
+the right which I have, owing to the relationship subsisting between us,
+to answer for the lady whom you have so honored, I may claim a still
+greater right in my sympathy for her efforts. [Hear!] We are perfectly
+agreed in every point with regard to the nature of slavery, and the best
+means of getting rid of it. I have been frequently called on to address
+public meetings since I have been on these shores, and though under
+circumstances of great disadvantage, and generally with little time, if
+any, for preparation, still the very great kindness which has been
+manifested to Mrs. Stowe and to myself, and to our country, afflicted as
+it is with this great evil, has enabled me to bear a burden which
+otherwise I should have found insupportable. But of all the addresses we
+have received, kind and considerate as they have all been, I doubt
+whether one has so completely expressed the feelings and sympathies of
+our own hearts as the one we have just heard. It is precisely the
+expressions of our own thoughts and feelings on the whole subject of
+slavery. As this is probably the last time I shall have an opportunity
+of addressing an audience in England, I wish briefly to give you an
+outline of our views as to the best means of dealing with that terrible
+subject of slavery, for in our country it is really terrible in its
+power and influence. Were it not that Providence seems to be lifting a
+light in the distance, I should be almost in despair. There is now a
+system of causes at work which Providence designs should continue to
+work, until that great curse is removed from the face of the earth. I
+believe that in dealing with the subject of slavery, and the best means
+of removing it, the first thing is to show the utter wrongfulness of the
+whole system. The great moral ground is the chief and primary ground,
+and the one on which we should always, and under all circumstances,
+insist. With regard to the work which has created so much excitement,
+the great excellence of it morally is, that it holds up fully and
+emphatically the extreme wrongfulness of the system, while at the same
+time showing an entire Christian and forgiving spirit towards those
+involved in it; and it is these two characteristics which, in my
+opinion, have given it its great power. Till I read that book, I had
+never seen any extensive work that satisfied me on those points. It does
+show, in the most striking manner, the horrible wrongfulness of the
+system, and, at the same time, it displays no bitterness, no unfairness,
+no unkindness, to those involved in it. It is that which gives the work
+the greater power, for where there is unfairness, those assailed take
+refuge behind it; while here they have no such refuge. We should always
+aim, in assailing the system of slavery, to awaken the consciences of
+those involved in it; for among slaveholders there are all kinds of
+moral development, as among every other class of people in the world.
+There are men of tender conscience, as well as men of blunted
+conscience; men with moral sense, and men with no moral sense whatever;
+some who have come into the system involuntarily, born in it, and others
+who have come into it voluntarily. There is a moral nature in every man,
+more or less developed; and according as it is developed we can, by
+showing the wrong of a thing, bring one to abhor it. We have the
+testimony of Christian clergymen in slave holding states, that the
+greater portion of the Christian people there, and even many
+slaveholders, believe the system is wrong; and it is only a matter of
+time, a question of delay, as to when they shall perform their whole
+duty, and bring it to an end.[I] One would believe that when they saw a
+thing to be wrong, they would at once do right; but prejudice, habit,
+interest, education, and a variety of influences check their aspirations
+to what is right; but let us keep on pressing it upon their consciences,
+and I believe their consciences will at length respond. Public sentiment
+is more powerful than force, and it may be excited in many ways.
+Conversation, the press, the platform, and the pulpit may all be used to
+awaken the feeling of the people, and bring it to bear on this question.
+I refer especially to the pulpit; for, if the church and the ministry
+are silent, who is to speak for the dumb and the oppressed? The thing
+that has borne on my mind with the most melancholy weight, and caused me
+most sorrow, is the apparent apathy, the comparative silence, of the
+church on this subject for the last twenty or five and twenty years in
+the United States. Previous to that period it did speak, and with words
+of power; but, unfortunately, it has not followed out those words by
+acts. The influence of the system has come upon it, and brought it, for
+a long time, almost to entire silence; but I hope we are beginning to
+speak again. We hear voices here and there which will excite other
+voices, and I trust before long they will bring all to speak the same
+thing on this subject, so that the conscience of the whole nation may be
+aroused. There is another method of dealing with the subject, which is
+alluded to in the address, and also in the resolution of the society, at
+Exeter Hall. It is the third resolution proposed at that meeting, and I
+will read it, and make some comments as I proceed. It begins, 'That,
+with a view to the correction of public sentiment on this subject in
+slaveholding communities, it is of the first importance that those who
+are earnest in condemnation of slavery should observe consistency, and,
+therefore, that it is their duty to encourage the development of the
+natural resources of countries where slavery does not exist, and the
+soil of which is adapted to the growth of products, especially cotton,
+now partially or chiefly raised by slave labor.' Now, I concur with this
+most entirely, and would refer you to countries where cotton can be
+grown even in your own dominions--in India, Australia, British Guiana,
+and parts of Africa. But it can be raised by free labor in the United
+States, and indeed it is already raised there by free labor to a
+considerable extent; and, provided the plan were more encouraged, it
+could be raised more abundantly. The resolution goes on to say, 'And
+though the extinction of slavery is less to be expected from a
+diminished demand for slave produce than from the moral effects of a
+steadfast abhorrence of slavery, and from an unwavering and consistent
+opposition to it,' &c. Now, my own feelings on that subject are not
+quite so hopeless as here expressed, and it seems to me that you are not
+aware of the extent to which free labor may come into competition with
+slave labor. I know several instances, in the most slaveholding states,
+in which slave labor has been displaced, and free labor substituted in
+its stead. The weakness of slavery consists in the expense of the
+slaves, the great capital to be invested in their purchase before any
+work can be performed, and the constant danger of loss by death or
+escape. When the Chinese emigrants from the eastern portion of their
+empire came to the North-western States, their labor was found much
+cheaper and better than that of slaves. I therefore hope there may be a
+direct influence from this source, as well as the indirect influence
+contemplated by the resolution. At all events, it is an encouragement to
+those who wish the extinction of slavery to keep their eyes open, and
+assist the process by all the means in their power. The resolution
+proceeds: 'This meeting would earnestly recommend, in all cases where it
+is practicable, that a decided preference should be given to the
+products of free labor by all who enter their protest against slavery,
+so that at least they themselves may be clear of any participation in
+the guilt of the system, and be thus morally strengthened in their
+condemnation of it.' To that there can be no objection; but still the
+state of society is such that we cannot at once dispense with all the
+products of slave labor. We may, however, be doing what we
+can--examining the ways and methods by which this end may be brought
+about; and, at all events, we need not be deterred from self-denial, nor
+shrink before minor obstacles. If with foresight we participate in the
+encouragement of slave labor, we must hold ourselves guilty, in no
+unimportant sense, of sustaining the system of slavery. I will
+illustrate my argument by a very simple method. Suppose two ships arrive
+laden with silks of the same quality, but one a pirate ship, in which
+the goods have been obtained by robbery, and the other by honest trade.
+The pirate sells his silks twenty per cent. cheaper than the honest
+trader: you go to him, and declaim against his dishonesty; but because
+you can get silks cheaper of him, you buy of him. Would he think you
+sincere in your denunciations of his plundering his fellow-creatures, or
+would you exert any influence on him to make him abandon his dishonest
+practices? I can, however, put another case in which this inconsistency
+might, perhaps, be unavoidable. Suppose we were in famine or great
+necessity, and we wished to obtain provisions for our suffering
+families: suppose, too, there was a certain man with provisions, who, we
+knew, had come by them dishonestly, but we had no other resource than to
+purchase of him. In that case we should be justified in purchasing of
+him, and should not participate in the guilt of the robbery. But still,
+however great our necessity, we are not justified in refusing to examine
+the subject, and in discouraging those who are endeavoring to set the
+thing on the right ground. That is all I wish, and all the resolution
+contemplates; and, happily, I find that that also is what was implied in
+the address. I may mention one other method alluded to in the address,
+and that is prayer to Almighty God. This ought to be, and must be, a
+religious enterprise. It is impossible for any man to contemplate
+slavery as it is without feeling intense indignation; and unless he have
+his heart near to God, and unless he be a man of prayer and devotional
+spirit, bad passions will arise, and to a very great extent neutralize
+his efforts to do good. How do you suppose such a religious feeling has
+been preserved in the book to which the address refers? Because it was
+written amid prayer from the beginning; and it is only by a constant
+exercise of the religious spirit that the good it had effected has been
+accomplished in the way it has. There is one more subject to which I
+would allude, and that is unity among those who desire to emancipate the
+slave. I mean a good understanding and unity of feeling among the
+opponents of slavery. What gives slavery its great strength in the
+United States? There are only about three hundred thousand slaveholders
+in the United States out of the whole twenty-five millions of its
+population, and yet they hold the entire power over the nation. That is
+owing to their unbroken unity on that one matter, however much, and
+however fiercely, they may contend among themselves on others. As soon
+as the subject of slavery comes up, they are of one heart, of one voice,
+and of one mind, while their opponents unhappily differ, and assail each
+other when they ought to be assailing the great enemy alone. Why can
+they not work together, so far as they are agreed, and let those points
+on which they disagree be waived for the time? In the midst of the
+battle let them sink their differences, and settle them after the
+victory is won. I was happy to find at the great meeting of the Peace
+Society that that course has been adopted. They are not all of one mind
+on the details of the question, but they are of one mind on the great
+principle of diffusing peace doctrines among the great nations of
+Europe. I therefore say, let all the friends of the slave work together
+until the great work of his emancipation is accomplished, and then they
+will have time to discuss their differences, though I believe by that
+time they will all think alike. I thank you sincerely for the kindness
+you have expressed towards my country, and for the philanthropy you have
+manifested, and I hope all has been done in such a Christian spirit that
+every Christian feeling on the other side of the Atlantic will be
+compelled to respond to it."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+CONCLUDING NOTE.
+
+Since the preceding addresses were delivered, the aspect of things among
+us has been greatly changed. It is just as was predicted by the
+sagacious Lord Cockburn, at the meeting in Edinburgh, (see page xxvi.)
+The spirit of slavery, stimulated to madness by the indignation of the
+civilized world, in its frenzy bids defiance to God and man, and is
+determined to make itself respected by enlisting into its service the
+entire wealth, and power, and political influence of this great nation.
+Its encroachments are becoming so enormous, and its progress so rapid,
+that it is now a conflict for the freedom of the citizens rather than
+for the emancipation of the slaves. The reckless faithlessness and
+impudent falsehood of our national proslavery legislation, the present
+season, has scarcely a parallel in history, black as history is with all
+kinds of perfidy. If the men who mean to be free do not now arise in
+their strength and shake off the incubus which is strangling and
+crushing them, they deserve to be slaves, and they will be.
+
+C.E.S.
+
+
+
+
+SUNNY MEMORIES
+
+OF
+
+FOREIGN LANDS.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+
+Liverpool, April 11, 1853.
+
+MY DEAR CHILDREN:--
+
+You wish, first of all, to hear of the voyage. Let me assure you, my
+dears, in the very commencement of the matter, that going to sea is not
+at all the thing that we have taken it to be.
+
+You know how often we have longed for a sea voyage, as the fulfilment of
+all our dreams of poetry and romance, the realization of our highest
+conceptions of free, joyous existence.
+
+You remember our ship-launching parties in Maine, when we used to ride
+to the seaside through dark pine forests, lighted up with the gold,
+scarlet, and orange tints of autumn. What exhilaration there was, as
+those beautiful inland bays, one by one, unrolled like silver ribbons
+before us! and how all our sympathies went forth with the grand new ship
+about to be launched! How graceful and noble a thing she looked, as she
+sprang from the shore to the blue waters, like a human soul springing
+from life into immortality! How all our feelings went with her! how we
+longed to be with her, and a part of her--to go with her to India,
+China, or any where, so that we might rise and fall on the bosom of that
+magnificent ocean, and share a part of that glorified existence! That
+ocean! that blue, sparkling, heaving, mysterious ocean, with all the
+signs and wonders of heaven emblazoned on its bosom, and another world
+of mystery hidden beneath its waters! Who would not long to enjoy a
+freer communion, and rejoice in a prospect of days spent in unreserved
+fellowship with its grand and noble nature?
+
+Alas! what a contrast between all this poetry and the real prose fact of
+going to sea! No man, the proverb says, is a hero to his valet de
+chambre. Certainly, no poet, no hero, no inspired prophet, ever lost so
+much on near acquaintance as this same mystic, grandiloquent old Ocean.
+The one step from the sublime to the ridiculous is never taken with such
+alacrity as in a sea voyage.
+
+In the first place, it is a melancholy fact, but not the less true, that
+ship life is not at all fragrant; in short, particularly on a steamer,
+there is a most mournful combination of grease, steam, onions, and
+dinners in general, either past, present, or to come, which, floating
+invisibly in the atmosphere, strongly predisposes to that disgust of
+existence, which, in half an hour after sailing, begins to come upon
+you; that disgust, that strange, mysterious, ineffable sensation which
+steals slowly and inexplicably upon you; which makes every heaving
+billow, every white-capped wave, the ship, the people, the sight, taste,
+sound, and smell of every thing a matter of inexpressible loathing! Man
+cannot utter it.
+
+It is really amusing to watch the gradual progress of this epidemic; to
+see people stepping on board in the highest possible feather, alert,
+airy, nimble, parading the deck, chatty and conversable, on the best
+possible terms with themselves and mankind generally; the treacherous
+ship, meanwhile, undulating and heaving in the most graceful rises and
+pauses imaginable, like some voluptuous waltzer; and then to see one
+after another yielding to the mysterious spell!
+
+Your poet launches forth, "full of sentiment sublime as billows,"
+discoursing magnificently on the color of the waves and the glory of the
+clouds; but gradually he grows white about the mouth, gives sidelong
+looks towards the stairway; at last, with one desperate plunge, he sets,
+to rise no more!
+
+Here sits a stout gentleman, who looks as resolute as an oak log. "These
+things are much the effect of imagination," he tells you; "a little
+self-control and resolution," &c. Ah me! it is delightful, when these
+people, who are always talking about resolution, get caught on
+shipboard. As the backwoodsman said to the Mississippi River, about the
+steamboat, they "get their match." Our stout gentleman sits a quarter of
+an hour, upright as a palm tree, his back squared against the rails,
+pretending to be reading a paper; but a dismal look of disgust is
+settling down about his lips; the old sea and his will are evidently
+having a pitched battle. Ah, ha! there he goes for the stairway; says he
+has left a book in the cabin, but shoots by with a most suspicious
+velocity. You may fancy his finale.
+
+Then, of course, there are young ladies,--charming creatures,--who, in
+about ten minutes, are going to die, and are sure they shall die, and
+don't care if they do; whom anxious papas, or brothers, or lovers
+consign with all speed to those dismal lower regions, where the brisk
+chambermaid, who has been expecting them, seems to think their agonies
+and groans a regular part of the play.
+
+I had come on board thinking, in my simplicity, of a fortnight to be
+spent something like the fortnight on a trip to New Orleans, on one of
+our floating river palaces; that we should sit in our state rooms, read,
+sew, sketch, and chat; and accordingly I laid in a magnificent provision
+in the way of literature and divers matters of fancy work, with which to
+while away the time. Some last, airy touches, in the way of making up
+bows, disposing ribbons, and binding collarets, had been left to these
+long, leisure hours, as matters of amusement.
+
+Let me warn you, if you ever go to sea, you may as well omit all such
+preparations. Don't leave so much as the unlocking of a trunk to be done
+after sailing. In the few precious minutes when the ship stands still,
+before she weighs her anchor, set your house, that is to say, your state
+room, as much in order as if you were going to be hanged; place every
+thing in the most convenient position to be seized without trouble at a
+moment's notice; for be sure that in half an hour after sailing an
+infinite desperation will seize you, in which the grasshopper will be a
+burden. If any thing is in your trunk, it might almost as well be in the
+sea, for any practical probability of your getting to it.
+
+Moreover, let your toilet be eminently simple, for you will find the
+time coming when to button a cuff or arrange a ruff will be a matter of
+absolute despair. You lie disconsolate in your berth, only desiring to
+be let alone to die; and then, if you are told, as you always are, that
+"you mustn't give way," that "you must rouse yourself" and come on deck,
+you will appreciate the value of simple attire. With every thing in your
+berth dizzily swinging backwards and forwards, your bonnet, your cloak,
+your tippet, your gloves, all present so many discouraging
+impossibilities; knotted strings cannot be untied, and modes of
+fastening which seemed curious and convenient, when you had nothing else
+to do but fasten them, now look disgustingly impracticable.
+Nevertheless, your fate for the whole voyage depends upon your rousing
+yourself to get upon deck at first; to give up, then, is to be condemned
+to the Avernus, the Hades of the lower regions, for the rest of the
+voyage.
+
+Ah, _those_ lower regions!--the saloons--every couch and corner filled
+with prostrate, despairing forms, with pale cheeks, long, willowy hair
+and sunken eyes, groaning, sighing, and apostrophizing the Fates, and
+solemnly vowing between every lurch of the ship, that "you'll never
+catch them going to sea again, that's what you won't;" and then the
+bulletins from all the state rooms--"Mrs. A. is sick, and Miss B.
+sicker, and Miss C. almost dead, and Mrs. E., F., and G. declare that
+they shall give up." This threat of "giving up" is a standing resort of
+ladies in distressed circumstances; it is always very impressively
+pronounced, as if the result of earnest purpose; but how it is to be
+carried out practically, how ladies _do_ give up, and what general
+impression is made on creation when they do, has never yet appeared.
+Certainly the sea seems to care very little about the threat, for he
+goes on lurching all hands about just as freely afterwards as before.
+
+There are always some three or four in a hundred who escape all these
+evils. They are not sick, and they seem to be having a good time
+generally, and always meet you with "What a charming run we are having!
+Isn't it delightful?" and so on. If you have a turn for being
+disinterested, you can console your miseries by a view of their
+joyousness. Three or four of our ladies were of this happy order, and it
+was really refreshing to see them.
+
+For my part, I was less fortunate. I could not and would not give up and
+become one of the ghosts below, and so I managed, by keeping on deck and
+trying to act as if nothing was the matter, to lead a very uncertain and
+precarious existence, though with a most awful undertone of emotion,
+which seemed to make quite another thing of creation.
+
+I wonder that people who wanted to break the souls of heroes and martyrs
+never thought of sending them to sea and keeping them a little seasick.
+The dungeons of Olmutz, the leads of Venice, in short, all the naughty,
+wicked places that tyrants ever invented for bringing down the spirits
+of heroes, are nothing to the berth of a ship. Get Lafayette, Kossuth,
+or the noblest of woman, born, prostrate in a swinging, dizzy berth of
+one of these sea coops, called state rooms, and I'll warrant almost any
+compromise might be got out of them.
+
+Where in the world the soul goes to under such influences nobody knows;
+one would really think the sea tipped it all out of a man, just as it
+does the water out of his wash basin. The soul seems to be like one of
+the genii enclosed in a vase, in the Arabian Nights; now, it rises like
+a pillar of cloud, and floats over land and sea, buoyant, many-hued, and
+glorious; again, it goes down, down, subsiding into its copper vase, and
+the cover is clapped on, and there you are. A sea voyage is the best
+device for getting the soul back into its vase that I know of.
+
+But at night!--the beauties of a night on shipboard!--down in your
+berth, with the sea hissing and fizzing, gurgling and booming, within an
+inch of your ear; and then the steward conies along at twelve o'clock
+and puts out your light, and there you are! Jonah in the whale was not
+darker or more dismal. There, in profound ignorance and blindness, you
+lie, and feel yourself rolled upwards, and downwards, and sidewise, and
+all ways, like a cork in a tub of water; much such a sensation as one
+might suppose it to be, were one headed up in a barrel and thrown into
+the sea.
+
+Occasionally a wave comes with a thump against your ear, as if a great
+hammer were knocking on your barrel, to see that all within was safe and
+sound. Then you begin to think of krakens, and sharks, and porpoises,
+and sea serpents, and all the monstrous, slimy, cold, hobgoblin brood,
+who, perhaps, are your next door neighbors; and the old blue-haired
+Ocean whispers through the planks, "Here you are; I've got you. Your
+grand ship is my plaything. I can do what I like with it."
+
+Then you hear every kind of odd noise in the ship--creaking, straining,
+crunching, scraping, pounding, whistling, blowing off steam, each of
+which to your unpractised ear is significant of some impending
+catastrophe; you lie wide awake, listening with all your might, as if
+your watching did any good, till at last sleep overcomes you, and the
+morning light convinces you that nothing very particular has been the
+matter, and that all these frightful noises are only the necessary
+attendants of what is called a good run.
+
+Our voyage out was called "a good run." It was voted, unanimously, to be
+"an extraordinarily good passage," "a pleasant voyage;" yet the ship
+rocked the whole time from side to side with a steady, dizzy, continuous
+motion, like a great cradle. I had a new sympathy for babies, poor
+little things, who are rocked hours at a time without so much as a "by
+your leave" in the case. No wonder there are so many stupid people in
+the world.
+
+There is no place where killing time is so much of a systematic and
+avowed object as in one of these short runs. In a six months' voyage
+people give up to their situation, and make arrangements to live a
+regular life; but the ten days that now divide England and America are
+not long enough for any thing. The great question is how to get them
+off; they are set up, like tenpins, to be bowled at; and happy he whose
+ball prospers. People with strong heads, who can stand the incessant
+swing of the boat, may read or write. Then there is one's berth, a
+never-failing resort, where one may analyze at one's leisure the life
+and emotions of an oyster in the mud. Walking the deck is a means of
+getting off some half hours more. If a ship heaves in sight, or a
+porpoise tumbles up, or, better still, a whale spouts, it makes an
+immense sensation.
+
+Our favorite resort is by the old red smoke pipe of the steamer, which
+rises warm and luminous as a sort of tower of defence. The wind must
+blow an uncommon variety of ways at once when you cannot find a
+sheltered side, as well as a place to warm your feet. In fact, the old
+smoke pipe is the domestic hearth of the ship; there, with the double
+convenience of warmth and fresh air, you can sit by the railing, and,
+looking down, command the prospect of the cook's offices, the cow house,
+pantries, &c.
+
+Our cook has specially interested me--a tall, slender, melancholy man,
+with a watery-blue eye, a patient, dejected visage, like an individual
+weary of the storms and commotions of life, and thoroughly impressed
+with the vanity of human wishes. I sit there hour after hour watching
+him, and it is evident that he performs all his duties in this frame of
+sad composure. Now I see him resignedly stuffing a turkey, anon
+compounding a sauce, or mournfully making little ripples in the crust of
+a tart; but all is done under an evident sense that it is of no use
+trying.
+
+Many complaints have been made of our coffee since we have been on
+board, which, to say the truth, has been as unsettled as most of the
+social questions of our day, and, perhaps, for that reason quite as
+generally unpalatable; but since I have seen our cook, I am quite
+persuaded that the coffee, like other works of great artists, has
+borrowed the hues of its maker's mind. I think I hear him soliloquize
+over it--"To what purpose is coffee?--of what avail tea?--thick or
+clear?--all is passing away--a little egg, or fish skin, more or less,
+what are they?" and so we get melancholy coffee and tea, owing to our
+philosophic cook.
+
+After dinner I watch him as he washes dishes: he hangs up a whole row of
+tin; the ship gives a lurch, and knocks them all down. He looks as if it
+was just what he expected. "Such is life!" he says, as he pursues a
+frisky tin pan in one direction, and arrests the gambols of the ladle in
+another; while the wicked sea, meanwhile, with another lurch, is
+upsetting all his dishwater. I can see how these daily trials, this
+performing of most delicate and complicated gastronomic operations in
+the midst of such unsteady, unsettled circumstances, have gradually
+given this poor soul a despair of living, and brought him into this
+state of philosophic melancholy. Just as Xantippe made a sage of
+Socrates, this whisky, frisky, stormy ship life has made a sage of our
+cook. Meanwhile, not to do him injustice, let it be recorded, that in
+all dishes which require grave conviction and steady perseverance,
+rather than hope and inspiration, he is eminently successful. Our table
+excels in viands of a reflective and solemn character; mighty rounds of
+beef, vast saddles of mutton, and the whole tribe of meats in general,
+come on in a superior style. English plum pudding, a weighty and serious
+performance, is exhibited in first-rate order. The jellies want
+lightness,--but that is to be expected.
+
+I admire the thorough order and system with which every thing is done on
+these ships. One day, when the servants came round, as they do at a
+certain time after dinner, and screwed up the shelf of decanters and
+bottles out of our reach, a German gentleman remarked, "Ah, that's
+always the way on English ships; every thing done at such a time,
+without saying 'by your leave,' If it had been on an American ship now,
+he would have said, 'Gentlemen, are you ready to have this shelf
+raised?'"
+
+No doubt this remark is true and extends to a good many other things;
+but in a ship in the middle of the ocean, when the least confusion or
+irregularity in certain cases might be destruction to all on board, it
+does inspire confidence to see that there is even in the minutest things
+a strong and steady system, that goes on without saying "by your leave."
+Even the rigidness with which lights are all extinguished at twelve
+o'clock, though it is very hard in some cases, still gives you
+confidence in the watchfulness and care with which all on board is
+conducted.
+
+On Sunday there was a service. We went into the cabin, and saw prayer
+books arranged at regular intervals, and soon a procession of the
+sailors neatly dressed filed in and took their places, together with
+such passengers as felt disposed, and the order of morning prayer was
+read. The sailors all looked serious and attentive. I could not but
+think that this feature of the management of her majesty's ships was a
+good one, and worthy of imitation. To be sure, one can say it is only a
+form. Granted; but is not a serious, respectful _form_ of religion
+better than nothing? Besides, I am not willing to think that these
+intelligent-looking sailors could listen to all those devout sentiments
+expressed in the prayers, and the holy truths embodied in the passages
+of Scripture, and not gain something from it. It is bad to have only
+_the form_ of religion, but not so bad as to have neither the form nor
+the fact.
+
+When the ship has been out about eight days, an evident bettering of
+spirits and condition obtains among the passengers. Many of the sick
+ones take heart, and appear again among the walks and ways of men; the
+ladies assemble in little knots, and talk of getting on shore. The more
+knowing ones, who have travelled before, embrace this opportunity to
+show their knowledge of life by telling the new hands all sorts of
+hobgoblin stories about the custom house officers and the difficulties
+of getting landed in England. It is a curious fact, that old travellers
+generally seem to take this particular delight in striking consternation
+into younger ones.
+
+"You'll have all your daguerreotypes taken away," says one lady, who, in
+right of having crossed the ocean nine times, is entitled to speak _ex
+cathedra_ on the subject.
+
+"All our daguerreotypes!" shriek four or five at once. "Pray tell, what
+for?"
+
+"They _will_ do it," says the knowing lady, with an awful nod; "unless
+you hide them, and all your books, they'll burn up--"
+
+"Burn our books!" exclaim the circle. "O, dreadful! What do they do that
+for?"
+
+"They're very particular always to burn up all your books. I knew a lady
+who had a dozen burned," says the wise one.
+
+"Dear me! will they take our _dresses_?" says a young lady, with
+increasing alarm.
+
+"No, but they'll pull every thing out, and tumble them well over, I can
+tell you."
+
+"How horrid!"
+
+An old lady, who has been very sick all the way, is revived by this
+appalling intelligence.
+
+"I hope they won't tumble over my _caps!_" she exclaims.
+
+"Yes, they will have every thing out on deck," says the lady, delighted
+with the increasing sensation. "I tell you you don't know these custom
+house officers."
+
+"It's too bad!" "It's dreadful!" "How horrid!" exclaim all.
+
+"I shall put my best things in my pocket," exclaims one. "They don't
+search our pockets, do they?"
+
+"Well, no, not here; but I tell you they'll search your _pockets_ at
+Antwerp and Brussels," says the lady.
+
+Somebody catches the sound, and flies off into the state rooms with the
+intelligence that "the custom house officers are so dreadful--they rip
+open your trunks, pull out all your things, burn your books, take away
+your daguerreotypes, and even search your pockets;" and a row of groans
+is heard ascending from the row of state rooms, as all begin to revolve
+what they have in their trunks, and what they are to do in this
+emergency.
+
+"Pray tell me," said I to a gentlemanly man, who had crossed four or
+five times, "is there really so much annoyance at the custom house?"
+
+"Annoyance, ma'am? No, not the slightest."
+
+"But do they really turn out the contents of the trunks, and take away
+people's daguerreotypes, and burn their books?"
+
+"Nothing of the kind, ma'am. I apprehend no difficulty. I never had any.
+There are a few articles on which duty is charged. I have a case of
+cigars, for instance; I shall show them to the custom house officer, and
+pay the duty. If a person seems disposed to be fair, there is no
+difficulty. The examination of ladies' trunks is merely nominal; nothing
+is deranged."
+
+So it proved. We arrived on Sunday morning; the custom house officers,
+very gentlemanly men, came on board; our luggage was all set out, and
+passed through a rapid examination, which in many cases amounted only to
+opening the trunk and shutting it, and all was over. The whole ceremony
+did not occupy two hours.
+
+So ends this letter. You shall hear further how we landed at some future
+time.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER II.
+
+
+DEAR FATHER:--
+
+It was on Sunday morning that we first came in sight of land. The day
+was one of a thousand--clear, calm, and bright. It is one of those
+strange, throbbing feelings, that come only once in a while in life;
+this waking up to find an ocean crossed and long-lost land restored
+again in another hemisphere; something like what we should suppose might
+be the thrill of awakening from life to immortality, and all the wonders
+of the world unknown. That low, green line of land in the horizon is
+Ireland; and we, with water smooth as a lake and sails furled, are
+running within a mile of the shore. Every body on deck, full of spirits
+and expectation, busy as can be looking through spyglasses, and
+exclaiming at every object on shore,--
+
+"Look! there's Skibareen, where the worst of the famine was," says one.
+
+"Look! that's a ruined Martello tower," says another.
+
+We new voyagers, who had never seen any ruin more imposing than that of
+a cow house, and, of course, were ravenous for old towers, were now
+quite wide awake, but were disappointed to learn that these were only
+custom house rendezvous. Here is the county of Cork. Some one calls
+out,--
+
+"There is O'Connell's house;" and a warm dispute ensues whether a large
+mansion, with a stone chapel by it, answers to that name. At all events
+the region looks desolate enough, and they say the natives of it are
+almost savages. A passenger remarks, that "O'Connell never really did
+any thing for the Irish, but lived on his capacity for exciting their
+enthusiasm." Thereupon another expresses great contempt for the Irish
+who could be so taken in. Nevertheless, the capability of a
+disinterested enthusiasm is, on the whole, a nobler property of a human
+being than a shrewd self-interest. I like the Irish all the better for
+it.
+
+Now we pass Kinsale lighthouse; there is the spot where the Albion was
+wrecked. It is a bare, frowning cliff, with walls of rock rising
+perpendicularly out of the sea. Now, to be sure, the sea smiles and
+sparkles around the base of it, as gently as if it never could storm;
+yet under other skies, and with a fierce south-east wind, how the waves
+would pour in here! Woe then to the distressed and rudderless vessel
+that drifts towards those fatal rocks! This gives the outmost and
+boldest view of the point.
+
+[Illustration: View East of Kinsale.]
+
+The Albion struck just round the left of the point, where the rock rises
+perpendicularly out of the sea. I well remember, when a child, of the
+newspapers being filled with the dreadful story of the wreck of the ship
+Albion--how for hours, rudderless and helpless, they saw themselves
+driving with inevitable certainty against these pitiless rocks; and how,
+in the last struggle, one human being after another was dashed against
+them in helpless agony.
+
+What an infinite deal of misery results from man's helplessness and
+ignorance and nature's inflexibility in this one matter of crossing the
+ocean! What agonies of prayer there were during all the long hours that
+this ship was driving straight on to these fatal rocks, all to no
+purpose! It struck and crushed just the same. Surely, without the
+revelation of God in Jesus, who could believe in the divine goodness? I
+do not wonder the old Greeks so often spoke of their gods as cruel, and
+believed the universe was governed by a remorseless and inexorable fate.
+Who would come to any other conclusion, except from the pages of the
+Bible?
+
+But we have sailed far past Kinsale point. Now blue and shadowy loom up
+the distant form of the Youghal Mountains, (pronounced _Yoole_.) The
+surface of the water is alive with fishing boats, spreading their white
+wings and skimming about like so many moth millers.
+
+About nine o'clock we were crossing the sand bar, which lies at the
+mouth of the Mersey River, running up towards Liverpool. Our signal
+pennants are fluttering at the mast head, pilot full of energy on one
+wheel house, and a man casting the lead on the other.
+
+"By the mark, five," says the man. The pilot, with all his energy, is
+telegraphing to the steersman. This is a very close and complicated
+piece of navigation, I should think, this running up the Mersey, for
+every moment we are passing some kind of a signal token, which warns off
+from some shoal. Here is a bell buoy, where the waves keep the bell
+always tolling; here, a buoyant lighthouse; and "See there, those
+shoals, how pokerish they look!" says one of the passengers, pointing to
+the foam on our starboard bow. All is bustle, animation, exultation. Now
+float out the American stars and stripes on our bow.
+
+Before us lies the great city of Liverpool. No old Cathedral, no
+castles, a real New Yorkish place.
+
+"There, that's the fort," cries one. Bang, bang, go the two guns from
+our forward gangway.
+
+"I wonder if they will fire from the fort," says another.
+
+"How green that grass looks!" says a third; "and what pretty cottages!"
+
+"All modern, though," says somebody, in tones of disappointment. Now we
+are passing the Victoria Dock. Bang, bang, again. We are in a forest of
+ships of all nations; their masts bristling like the tall pines in
+Maine; their many colored flags streaming like the forest leaves in
+autumn.
+
+"Hark," says one; "there's, a chime of bells from the city; how sweet! I
+had quite forgotten it was Sunday."
+
+Here we cast anchor, and the small steam tender conies puffing
+alongside. Now for the custom house officers. State rooms, holds, and
+cabins must all give up their trunks; a general muster among the
+baggage, and passenger after passenger comes forward as their names are
+called, much as follows: "Snooks." "Here, sir." "Any thing contraband
+here, Mr. Snooks? Any cigars, tobacco, &c.?" "Nothing, sir."
+
+A little unlocking, a little fumbling. "Shut up; all right; ticket
+here." And a little man pastes on each article a slip of paper, with the
+royal arms of England and the magical letters V.R., to remind all men
+that they have come into a country where a lady reigns, and of course
+must behave themselves as prettily as they can.
+
+We were inquiring of some friends for the most convenient hotel, when we
+found the son of Mr. Cropper, of Dingle Bank, waiting in the cabin, to
+take us with him to their hospitable abode. In a few moments after the
+baggage had been examined, we all bade adieu to the old ship, and went
+on board the little steam tender, which carries passengers up to the
+city.
+
+This Mersey River would be a very beautiful one, if it were not so dingy
+and muddy. As we are sailing up in the tender towards Liverpool, I
+deplore the circumstance feelingly. "What does make this river so
+muddy?"
+
+"O," says a bystander, "don't you know that
+
+  'The quality of mercy is not strained'?"
+
+And now we are fairly alongside the shore, and we are soon going to set
+our foot on the land of Old England.
+
+Say what we will, an American, particularly a New Englander, can never
+approach the old country without a kind of thrill and pulsation of
+kindred. Its history for two centuries was our history. Its literature,
+laws, and language are our literature, laws, and language. Spenser,
+Shakspeare, Bacon, Milton, were a glorious inheritance, which we share
+in common. Our very life-blood is English life-blood. It is Anglo-Saxon
+vigor that is spreading our country from Atlantic to Pacific, and
+leading on a new era in the world's development. America is a tall,
+sightly young shoot, that has grown from the old royal oak of England;
+divided from its parent root, it has shot up in new, rich soil, and
+under genial, brilliant skies, and therefore takes on a new type of
+growth and foliage, but the sap in it is the same.
+
+I had an early opportunity of making acquaintance with my English
+brethren; for, much to my astonishment, I found quite a crowd on the
+wharf, and we walked up to our carriage through a long lane of people,
+bowing, and looking very glad to see us. When I came to get into the
+hack it was surrounded by more faces than I could count. They stood
+very quietly, and looked very kindly, though evidently very much
+determined to look. Something prevented the hack from moving on; so the
+interview was prolonged for some time. I therefore took occasion to
+remark the very fair, pure complexions, the clear eyes, and the general
+air of health and vigor, which seem to characterize our brethren and
+sisters of the island. There seemed to be no occasion to ask them, how
+they did, as they were evidently quite well. Indeed, this air of health
+is one of the most striking things when one lands in England.
+
+They were not burly, red-faced, and stout, as I had sometimes conceived
+of the English people, but just full enough to suggest the idea of vigor
+and health. The presence of so many healthy, rosy people looking at me,
+all reduced as I was, first by land and then by sea sickness, made me
+feel myself more withered and forlorn than ever. But there was an
+earnestness and a depth of kind feeling in some of the faces, which I
+shall long remember. It seemed as if I had not only touched the English
+shore, but felt the English heart.
+
+Our carriage at last drove on, taking us through Liverpool, and a mile
+or two out, and at length wound its way along the gravel paths of a
+beautiful little retreat, on the banks of the Mersey, called the
+"Dingle." It opened to my eyes like a paradise, all wearied as I was
+with the tossing of the sea. I have since become familiar with these
+beautiful little spots, which are so common in England; but now all was
+entirely new to me.
+
+We rode by shining clumps of the Portugal laurel, a beautiful evergreen,
+much resembling our mountain rhododendron; then there was the prickly,
+polished, dark-green holly, which I had never seen before, but which
+is, certainly, one of the most perfect of shrubs. The turf was of that
+soft, dazzling green, and had that peculiar velvet-like smoothness,
+which seem characteristic of England. We stopped at last before the door
+of a cottage, whose porch was overgrown with ivy. From that moment I
+ceased to feel myself a stranger in England. I cannot tell you how
+delightful to me, dizzy and weary as I was, was the first sight of the
+chamber of reception which had been prepared for us. No item of cozy
+comfort that one could desire was omitted. The sofa and easy chair
+wheeled up before a cheerful coal fire, a bright little teakettle
+steaming in front of the grate, a table with a beautiful vase of
+flowers, books, and writing apparatus, and kind friends with words full
+of affectionate cheer,--all these made me feel at home in a moment.
+
+The hospitality of England has become famous in the world, and, I think,
+with reason. I doubt not there is just as much hospitable feeling in
+other countries; but in England the matter of coziness and home comfort
+has been so studied, and matured, and reduced to system, that they
+really have it in their power to effect more, towards making their
+guests comfortable, than perhaps any other people.
+
+After a short season allotted to changing our ship garments and for
+rest, we found ourselves seated at the dinner table. While dining, the
+sister-in-law of our friends came in from the next door, to exchange a
+word or two of welcome, and invite us to breakfast with them the
+following morning.
+
+Between all the excitements of landing, and meeting so many new faces,
+and the remains of the dizzy motion of the ship, which still haunted me,
+I found it impossible to close my eyes to sleep that first night till
+the dim gray of dawn. I got up as soon as it was light, and looked out
+of the window; and as my eyes fell on the luxuriant, ivy-covered porch,
+the clumps of shining, dark-green holly bushes, I said to myself, "Ah,
+really, this is England!"
+
+I never saw any plant that struck me as more beautiful than this holly.
+It is a dense shrub growing from six to eight feet high, with a thickly
+varnished leaf of green. The outline of the leaf is something like this.
+I do not believe it can ever come to a state of perfect development
+under the fierce alternations of heat and cold which obtain in our New
+England climate, though it grows in the Southern States. It is one of
+the symbolical shrubs of England, probably because its bright green in
+winter makes it so splendid a Christmas decoration. A little bird sat
+twittering on one of the sprays. He had a bright red breast, and seemed
+evidently to consider himself of good blood and family, with the best
+reason, as I afterwards learned, since he was no other than the
+identical robin redbreast renowned in song and story; undoubtedly a
+lineal descendant of that very cock robin whose death and burial form so
+vivid a portion of our childish literature.
+
+I must tell you, then, as one of the first remarks on matters and things
+here in England, that "robin redbreast" is not at all the fellow we in
+America take him to be. The character who flourishes under that name
+among us is quite a different bird; he is twice as large, and has
+altogether a different air, and as he sits up with military erectness on
+a rail fence or stump, shows not even a family likeness to his
+diminutive English namesake. Well, of course, robin over here will claim
+to have the real family estate and title, since he lives in a country
+where such matters are understood and looked into. Our robin is probably
+some fourth cousin, who, like others, has struck out a new course for
+himself in America, and thrives upon it.
+
+We hurried to dress, remembering our engagements to breakfast this
+morning with a brother of our host, whose cottage stands on the same
+ground, within a few steps of our own. I had not the slightest idea of
+what the English mean by a breakfast, and therefore went in all
+innocence, supposing that I should see nobody but the family circle of
+my acquaintances. Quite to my astonishment, I found a party of between
+thirty and forty people. Ladies sitting with their bonnets on, as in a
+morning call. It was impossible, however, to feel more than a momentary
+embarrassment in the friendly warmth and cordiality of the circle by
+whom we were surrounded.
+
+The English are called cold and stiff in their manners; I had always
+heard they were so, but I certainly saw nothing of it here. A circle of
+family relatives could not have received us with more warmth and
+kindness. The remark which I made mentally, as my eye passed around the
+circle, was--Why, these people are just like home; they look like us,
+and the tone of sentiment and feeling is precisely such as I have been
+accustomed to; I mean with the exception of the antislavery question.
+
+That question has, from the very first, been, in England, a deeply
+religious movement. It was conceived and carried on by men of devotional
+habits, in the same spirit in which the work of foreign missions was
+undertaken in our own country; by just such earnest, self-denying,
+devout men as Samuel J. Mills and Jeremiah Evarts.
+
+It was encountered by the same contempt and opposition, in the outset,
+from men of merely worldly habits and principles; and to this day it
+retains that hold on the devotional mind of the English nation that the
+foreign mission cause does in America.
+
+Liverpool was at first to the antislavery cause nearly what New York has
+been with us. Its commercial interests were largely implicated in the
+slave trade, and the virulence of opposition towards the first movers of
+the antislavery reform in Liverpool was about as great as it is now
+against abolitionists in Charleston.
+
+When Clarkson first came here to prosecute his inquiries into the
+subject, a mob collected around him, and endeavored to throw him off the
+dock into the water; he was rescued by a gentleman, some of whose
+descendants I met on this occasion.
+
+The father of our host, Mr. Cropper, was one of the first and most
+efficient supporters of the cause in Liverpool; and the whole circle was
+composed of those who had taken a deep interest in that struggle. The
+wife of our host was the daughter of the celebrated Lord Chief Justice
+Denman, a man who, for many years, stood unrivalled, at the head of the
+legal mind in England, and who, with a generous ardor seldom equalled,
+devoted all his energies to this sacred cause.
+
+When the publication of Uncle Tom's Cabin turned the attention of the
+British public to the existing horrors of slavery in America, some
+palliations of the system appeared in English papers. Lord Denman,
+though then in delicate health and advanced years, wrote a series of
+letters upon the subject--an exertion which entirely prostrated his
+before feeble health. In one of the addresses made at table, a very
+feeling allusion was made to Lord Denman's labors, and also to those of
+the honored father of the two Messrs. Cropper.
+
+As breakfast parties are things which we do not have in America, perhaps
+mother would like to know just how they are managed. The hour is
+generally somewhere between nine and twelve, and the whole idea and
+spirit of the thing is that of an informal and social gathering. Ladies
+keep their bonnets on, and are not dressed in full toilet. On this
+occasion we sat and chatted together socially till the whole party was
+assembled in the drawing room, and then breakfast was announced. Each
+gentleman had a lady assigned him, and we walked into the dining room,
+where stood the tables tastefully adorned with flowers, and spread with
+an abundant cold collation, while tea and coffee were passed round by
+servants. In each plate was a card, containing the name of the person
+for whom it was designed. I took my place by the side of the Rev. Dr.
+McNiel, one of the most celebrated clergymen of the established church
+in Liverpool.
+
+The conversation was flowing, free, and friendly. The old reminiscences
+of the antislavery conflict in England were touchingly recalled, and the
+warmest sympathy was expressed for those in America who are carrying on
+the same cause.
+
+In one thing I was most agreeably disappointed. I had been told that the
+Christians of England were intolerant and unreasonable in their opinions
+on this subject; that they could not be made to understand the peculiar
+difficulties which beset it in America, and that they therefore made no
+distinction and no allowance in their censures. All this I found, so
+far as this circle were concerned, to be strikingly untrue. They
+appeared to be peculiarly affectionate in their feelings as regarded our
+country; to have the highest appreciation of, and the deepest sympathy
+with, our religious community, and to be extremely desirous to assist us
+in our difficulties. I also found them remarkably well informed upon the
+subject. They keep their eyes upon our papers, our public documents and
+speeches in Congress, and are as well advised in regard to the progress
+of the moral conflict as our Foreign Missionary Society is with the
+state of affairs in Hindostan and Burmah.
+
+Several present spoke of the part which England originally had in
+planting slavery in America, as placing English Christians under a
+solemn responsibility to bring every possible moral influence to bear
+for its extinction. Nevertheless, they seem to be the farthest possible
+from an unkind or denunciatory spirit, even towards those most deeply
+implicated. The remarks made by Dr. McNiel to me were a fair sample of
+the spirit and attitude of all present.
+
+"I have been trying, Mrs. S.," he said, "to bring my mind into the
+attitude of those Christians at the south who defend the institution of
+slavery. There are _real_ Christians there who do this--are there not?"
+
+I replied, that undoubtedly there were some most amiable and Christian
+people who defend slavery on principle, just as there had been some to
+defend every form of despotism.
+
+"Do give me some idea of the views they take; it is something to me so
+inconceivable. I am utterly at a loss how it can be made in any way
+plausible."
+
+I then stated that the most plausible view, and that which seemed to
+have the most force with good men, was one which represented the
+institution of slavery as a sort of wardship or guardian relation, by
+which an inferior race were brought under the watch and care of a
+superior race to be instructed in Christianity.
+
+He then inquired if there was any system of religious instruction
+actually pursued.
+
+In reply to this, I gave him some sketch of the operations for the
+religious instruction of the negroes, which had been carried on by the
+Presbyterian and other denominations. I remarked that many good people
+who do not take very extended views, fixing their attention chiefly on
+the efforts which they are making for the religious instruction of
+slaves, are blind to the sin and injustice of allowing their legal
+position to remain what it is.
+
+"But how do they shut their eyes to the various cruelties of the
+system,--the separation of families--the domestic slave trade?"
+
+I replied, "In part, by not inquiring into them. The best kind of people
+are, in general, those who _know_ least of the cruelties of the system;
+they never witness them. As in the city of London or Liverpool there may
+be an amount of crime and suffering which many residents may live years
+without seeing or knowing, so it is in the slave states."
+
+Every person present appeared to be in that softened and charitable
+frame of mind which disposed them to make every allowance for the
+situation of Christians so peculiarly tempted, while, at the same time,
+there was the most earnest concern, in view of the dishonor brought upon
+Christianity by the defence of such a system.
+
+One other thing I noticed, which was an agreeable disappointment to me.
+I had been told that there was no social intercourse between the
+established church and dissenters. In this party, however, were people
+of many different denominations. Our host belongs to the established
+church; his brother, with whom we are visiting, is a Baptist, and their
+father was a Friend; and there appeared to be the utmost social
+cordiality. Whether I shall find this uniformly the case will appear in
+time.
+
+After the breakfast party was over, I found at the door an array of
+children of the poor, belonging to a school kept under the
+superintendence of Mrs. E. Cropper, and called, as is customary here, a
+ragged school. The children, however, were any thing but ragged, being
+tidily dressed, remarkably clean, with glowing cheeks and bright eyes. I
+must say, so far as I have seen them, English children have a much
+healthier appearance than those of America. By the side of their bright
+bloom ours look pale and faded.
+
+Another school of the same kind is kept in this neighborhood, under the
+auspices of Sir George Stephen, a conspicuous advocate of the
+antislavery cause.
+
+I thought the fair patroness of this school seemed not a little
+delighted with the appearance of her protégés, as they sung, with great
+enthusiasm, Jane Taylor's hymn, commencing,--
+
+  "I thank the goodness and the grace
+    That on my birth have smiled,
+  And made me in these Christian days
+    A happy English child."
+
+All the little rogues were quite familiar with Topsy and Eva, and _au
+fait_ in the fortunes of Uncle Tom; so that, being introduced as the
+maternal relative of these characters, I seemed to find favor in their
+eyes. And when one of the speakers congratulated them that they were
+born in a land where no child could be bought or sold, they responded
+with enthusiastic cheers--cheers which made me feel rather sad; but
+still I could not quarrel with English people for taking all the pride
+and all the comfort which this inspiriting truth can convey.
+
+They had a hard enough struggle in rooting up the old weed of slavery,
+to justify them in rejoicing in their freedom. Well, the day will come
+in America, as I trust, when as much can be said for us.
+
+After the children were gone came a succession of calls; some from very
+aged people, the veterans of the old antislavery cause. I was astonished
+and overwhelmed by the fervor of feeling some of them manifested; there
+seemed to be something almost prophetic in the enthusiasm with which
+they expressed their hope of our final success in America. This
+excitement, though very pleasant, was wearisome, and I was glad of an
+opportunity after dinner to rest myself, by rambling uninterrupted, with
+my friends, through the beautiful grounds of the Dingle.
+
+Two nice little boys were my squires on this occasion, one of whom, a
+sturdy little fellow, on being asked his name, gave it to me in full as
+Joseph Babington Macaulay, and I learned that his mother, by a former
+marriage, had been the wife of Macaulay's brother. Uncle Tom Macaulay, I
+found, was a favorite character with the young people. Master Harry
+conducted me through the walks to the conservatories, all brilliant with
+azaleas and all sorts of flowers, and then through a long walk on the
+banks of the Mersey.
+
+Here the wild flowers attracted my attention, as being so different
+from those of our own country. Their daisy is not our flower, with its
+wide, plaited ruff and yellow centre. The English daisy is
+
+  "The wee modest crimson-tipped flower,"
+
+which Burns celebrates. It is what we raise in greenhouses, and call the
+mountain daisy. Its effect, growing profusely about fields and grass
+plats, is very beautiful.
+
+We read much, among the poets, of the primrose,
+
+  "Earliest daughter of the Spring."
+
+This flower is one, also, which we cultivate in gardens to some extent.
+The outline of it is as follows: The hue a delicate straw color; it
+grows in tufts in shady places, and has a pure, serious look, which
+reminds one of the line of Shakspeare--
+
+  "Pale primroses, which die unmarried."
+
+It has also the faintest and most ethereal perfume,--a perfume that
+seems to come and go in the air like music; and you perceive it at a
+little distance from a tuft of them, when you would not if you gathered
+and smelled them. On the whole, the primrose is a poet's and a painter's
+flower. An artist's eye would notice an exquisite harmony between the
+yellow-green hue of its leaves and the tint of its blossoms. I do not
+wonder that it has been so great a favorite among the poets. It is just
+such a flower as Mozart and Raphael would have loved.
+
+Then there is the bluebell, a bulb, which also grows in deep shades. It
+is a little purple bell, with a narrow green leaf, like a ribbon. We
+often read in English stories, of the gorse and furze; these are two
+names for the same plant, a low bush, with strong, prickly leaves,
+growing much like a juniper. The contrast of its very brilliant yellow,
+pea-shaped blossoms, with the dark green of its leaves, is very
+beautiful. It grows here in hedges and on commons, and is thought rather
+a plebeian affair. I think it would make quite an addition to our garden
+shrubbery. Possibly it might make as much sensation with us as our
+mullein does in foreign greenhouses.
+
+After rambling a while, we came to a beautiful summer house, placed in a
+retired spot, so as to command a view of the Mersey River. I think they
+told me that it was Lord Denman's favorite seat. There we sat down, and
+in common with the young gentlemen and ladies of the family, had quite a
+pleasant talk together. Among other things we talked about the question
+which is now agitating the public mind a good deal,--Whether it is
+expedient to open the Crystal Palace to the people on Sunday. They said
+that this course was much urged by some philanthropists, on the ground
+that it was the only day when the working classes could find any leisure
+to visit it, and that it seemed hard to shut them out entirely from all
+the opportunities and advantages which they might thus derive; that to
+exclude the laborer from recreation on the Sabbath, was the same as
+saying that he should never have any recreation. I asked, why the
+philanthropists could not urge employers to give their workmen a part of
+Saturday for this purpose; as it seemed to me unchristian to drive trade
+so that the laboring man had no time but Sunday for intellectual and
+social recreation. We rather came to the conclusion that this was the
+right course; whether the people of England will, is quite another
+matter.
+
+The grounds of the Dingle embrace three cottages; those of the two
+Messrs. Cropper, and that of a son, who is married to a daughter of Dr.
+Arnold. I rather think this way of relatives living together is more
+common here in England than it is in America; and there is more idea of
+home permanence connected with the family dwelling-place than with us,
+where the country is so wide, and causes of change and removal so
+frequent. A man builds a house in England with the expectation of living
+in it and leaving it to his children; while we shed our houses in
+America as easily as a snail does his shell. We live a while in Boston,
+and then a while in New York, and then, perhaps, turn up at Cincinnati.
+Scarcely any body with us is living where they expect to live and die.
+The man that dies in the house he was born in is a wonder. There is
+something pleasant in the permanence and repose of the English family
+estate, which we, in America, know very little of. All which is apropos
+to our having finished our walk, and got back to the ivy-covered porch
+again.
+
+The next day at breakfast, it was arranged that we should take a drive
+out to Speke Hall, an old mansion, which is considered a fine specimen
+of ancient house architecture. So the carriage was at the door. It was
+a cool, breezy, April morning, but there was an abundance of wrappers
+and carriage blankets provided to keep us comfortable. I must say, by
+the by, that English housekeepers are bountiful in their provision for
+carriage comfort. Every household has a store of warm, loose over
+garments, which are offered, if needed, to the guests; and each carriage
+is provided with one or two blankets, manufactured and sold expressly
+for this use, to envelope one's feet and limbs; besides all which,
+should the weather be cold, comes out a long stone reservoir, made flat
+on both sides, and filled with hot water, for foot stools. This is an
+improvement on the primitive simplicity of hot bricks, and even on the
+tin foot stove, which has nourished in New England.
+
+Being thus provided with all things necessary for comfort, we rattled
+merrily away, and I, remembering that I was in England, kept my eyes
+wide open to see what I could see. The hedges of the fields were just
+budding, and the green showed itself on them, like a thin gauze veil.
+These hedges are not all so well kept and trimmed as I expected to find
+them. Some, it is true, are cut very carefully; these are generally
+hedges to ornamental grounds; but many of those which separate the
+fields straggle and sprawl, and have some high bushes and some low ones,
+and, in short, are no more like a hedge than many rows of bushes that we
+have at home. But such as they are, they are the only dividing lines of
+the fields, and it is certainly a more picturesque mode of division than
+our stone or worm fences. Outside of every hedge, towards the street,
+there is generally a ditch, and at the bottom of the hedge is the
+favorite nestling-place for all sorts of wild flowers. I remember
+reading in stories about children trying to crawl through a gap in the
+hedge to get at flowers, and tumbling into a ditch on the other side,
+and I now saw exactly how they could do it.
+
+As we drive we pass by many beautiful establishments, about of the
+quality of our handsomest country houses, but whose grounds are kept
+with a precision and exactness rarely to be seen among us. We cannot get
+the gardeners who are qualified to do it; and if we could, the
+painstaking, slow way of proceeding, and the habit of creeping
+thoroughness, which are necessary to accomplish such results, die out in
+America. Nevertheless, such grounds are exceedingly beautiful to look
+upon, and I was much obliged to the owners of these places for keeping
+their gates hospitably open, as seems to be the custom here.
+
+After a drive of seven or eight miles, we alighted in front of Speke
+Hall. This house is a specimen of the old fortified houses of England,
+and was once fitted up with a moat and drawbridge, all in approved
+feudal style. It was built somewhere about the year 1500. The sometime
+moat was now full of smooth, green grass, and the drawbridge no longer
+remains.
+
+This was the first really old thing that we had seen since our arrival
+in England. We came up first to a low, arched, stone door, and knocked
+with a great old-fashioned knocker; this brought no answer but a treble
+and bass duet from a couple of dogs inside; so we opened the door, and
+saw a square court, paved with round stones, and a dark, solitary yew
+tree in the centre. Here in England, I think, they have vegetable
+creations made on purpose to go with old, dusky buildings; and this yew
+tree is one of them. It has altogether a most goblin-like, bewitched
+air, with its dusky black leaves and ragged branches, throwing
+themselves straight out with odd twists and angular lines, and might put
+one in mind of an old raven with some of his feathers pulled out, or a
+black cat with her hair stroked the wrong way, or any other strange,
+uncanny thing. Besides this they live almost forever; for when they have
+grown so old that any respectable tree ought to be thinking of dying,
+they only take another twist, and so live on another hundred years. I
+saw some in England seven hundred years old, and they had grown queerer
+every century. It is a species of evergreen, and its leaf resembles our
+hemlock, only it is longer. This sprig gives you some idea of its
+general form. It is always planted about churches and graveyards; a kind
+of dismal emblem of immortality. This sepulchral old tree and the bass
+and treble dogs were the only occupants of the court. One of these, a
+great surly mastiff, barked out of his kennel on one side, and the
+other, a little wiry terrier, out of his on the opposite side, and both
+strained on their chains, as if they would enjoy making even more
+decided demonstrations if they could.
+
+There was an aged, mossy fountain for holy water by the side of the
+wall, in which some weeds were growing. A door in the house was soon
+opened by a decent-looking serving woman, to whom we communicated our
+desire to see the hall.
+
+We were shown into a large dining hall with a stone floor, wainscoted
+with carved oak, almost as black as ebony. There were some pious
+sentences and moral reflections inscribed in old English text, carved
+over the doors, and like a cornice round the ceiling, which was also of
+carved oak. Their general drift was, to say that life is short, and to
+call for watchfulness and prayer. The fireplace of the hall yawned like
+a great cavern, and nothing else, one would think, than a cart load of
+western sycamores could have supplied an appropriate fire. A great
+two-handed sword of some ancestor hung over the fireplace. On taking it
+down it reached to C----'s shoulder, who, you know, is six feet high.
+
+We went into a sort of sitting room, and looked out through a window,
+latticed with little diamond panes, upon a garden wildly beautiful. The
+lattice was all wreathed round with jessamines. The furniture of this
+room was modern, and it seemed the more unique from its contrast with
+the old architecture.
+
+We went up stairs to see the chambers, and passed through a long,
+narrow, black oak corridor, whose slippery boards had the authentic
+ghostly squeak to them. There was a chamber, hung with old, faded
+tapestry of Scripture subjects. In this chamber there was behind the
+tapestry a door, which, being opened, displayed a staircase, that led
+delightfully off to nobody knows where. The furniture was black oak,
+carved, in the most elaborate manner, with cherubs' heads and other good
+and solemn subjects, calculated to produce a ghostly state of mind. And,
+to crown all, we heard that there was a haunted chamber, which was not
+to be opened, where a white lady appeared and walked at all approved
+hours.
+
+Now, only think what a foundation for a story is here. If our Hawthorne
+could conjure up such a thing as the Seven Gables in one of our prosaic
+country towns, what would he have done if he had lived here? Now he is
+obliged to get his ghostly images by looking through smoked glass at our
+square, cold realities; but one such old place as this is a standing
+romance. Perhaps it may add to the effect to say, that the owner of the
+house is a bachelor, who lives there very retired, and employs himself
+much in reading.
+
+The housekeeper, who showed us about, indulged us with a view of the
+kitchen, whose snowy, sanded floor and resplendent polished copper and
+tin, were sights for a housekeeper to take away in her heart of hearts.
+The good woman produced her copy of Uncle Tom, and begged the favor of
+my autograph, which I gave, thinking it quite a happy thing to be able
+to do a favor at so cheap a rate.
+
+After going over the house we wandered through the grounds, which are
+laid out with the same picturesque mixture of the past and present.
+There was a fine grove, under whose shadows we walked, picking
+primroses, and otherwise enacting the poetic, till it was time to go. As
+we passed out, we were again saluted with a _feu de joie_ by the two
+fidelities at the door, which we took in very good part, since it is
+always respectable to be thorough in whatever you are set to do.
+
+Coming home we met with an accident to the carriage which obliged us to
+get out and walk some distance. I was glad enough of it, because it gave
+me a better opportunity for seeing the country. We stopped at a cottage
+to get some rope, and a young woman came out with that beautiful, clear
+complexion which I so much admire here in England; literally her cheeks
+were like damask roses.
+
+I told Isa I wanted to see as much of the interior of the cottages as I
+could; and so, as we were walking onward toward home, we managed to call
+once or twice, on the excuse of asking the way and distance. The
+exterior was very neat, being built of brick or stone, and each had
+attached to it a little flower garden. Isa said that the cottagers often
+offered them a slice of bread or tumbler of milk.
+
+They have a way here of building the cottages two or three in a block
+together, which struck me as different from our New England manner,
+where, in the country, every house stands detached.
+
+In the evening I went into Liverpool, to attend a party of friends of
+the antislavery cause. In the course of the evening, Mr. Stowe was
+requested to make some remarks. Among other things he spoke upon the
+support the free part of the world give to slavery, by the purchase of
+the produce of slave labor; and, in particular, on the great quantity of
+slave-grown cotton purchased by England; suggesting it as a subject for
+inquiry, whether this cannot be avoided.
+
+One or two gentlemen, who are largely concerned in the manufacture and
+importation of cotton, spoke to him on the subject afterwards, and said
+it was a thing which ought to be very seriously considered. It is
+probable that the cotton trade of Great Britain is the great essential
+item which supports slavery, and such considerations ought not,
+therefore, to be without their results.
+
+When I was going away, the lady of the house said that the servants were
+anxious to see me; so I came into the dressing room to give them, an
+opportunity.
+
+While at Mr. C.'s, also, I had once or twice been called out to see
+servants, who had come in to visit those of the family. All of them had
+read Uncle Tom's Cabin, and were full of sympathy. Generally speaking,
+the servants seem to me quite a superior class to what are employed in
+that capacity with us. They look very intelligent, are dressed with
+great neatness, and though their manners are very much more deferential
+than those of servants in our country, it appears to be a difference
+arising quite as much from self-respect and a sense of propriety as from
+servility. Every body's manners are more deferential in England than in
+America.
+
+The next day was appointed to leave Liverpool. It had been arranged
+that, before leaving, we should meet the ladies of the Negroes' Friend
+Society, an association formed at the time of the original antislavery
+agitation in England. We went in the carriage with our friends Mr. and
+Mrs. E. Cropper. On the way they were conversing upon the labors of Mrs.
+Chisholm, the celebrated female philanthropist, whose efforts for the
+benefit of emigrants are awakening a very general interest among all
+classes in England. They said there had been hesitation on the part of
+some good people, in regard to coöperating with her, because she is a
+Roman Catholic.
+
+It was agreed among us, that the great humanities of the present day are
+a proper ground on which all sects can unite, and that if any feared the
+extension of wrong sentiments, they had only to supply emigrant ships
+more abundantly with the Bible. Mr. C. said that this is a movement
+exciting very extensive interest, and that they hoped Mrs. Chisholm
+would visit Liverpool before long.
+
+The meeting was a very interesting one. The style of feeling expressed
+in all the remarks was tempered by a deep and earnest remembrance of the
+share which England originally had in planting the evil of slavery in
+the civilized world, and her consequent obligation, as a Christian
+nation, now not to cease her efforts until the evil is extirpated, not
+merely from her own soil, but from all lands.
+
+The feeling towards America was respectful and friendly, and the utmost
+sympathy was expressed with her in the difficulties with which she is
+environed by this evil. The tone of the meeting was deeply earnest and
+religious. They presented us with a sum to be appropriated for the
+benefit of the slave, in any way we might think proper.
+
+A great number of friends accompanied us to the cars, and a beautiful
+bouquet of flowers was sent, with a very affecting message from, a sick
+gentleman, who, from the retirement of his chamber, felt a desire to
+testify his sympathy.
+
+Now, if all this enthusiasm for freedom and humanity, in the person of
+the American slave, is to be set down as good for nothing in England,
+because there are evils there in society which require redress, what
+then shall we say of ourselves? Have we not been enthusiastic for
+freedom in the person of the Greek, the Hungarian, and the Pole, while
+protecting a much worse despotism than any from which they suffer? Do we
+not consider it our duty to print and distribute the Bible in all
+foreign lands, when there are three millions of people among whom we
+dare not distribute it at home, and whom it is a penal offence even to
+teach to read it? Do we not send remonstrances to Tuscany, about the
+Madiai, when women are imprisoned in Virginia for teaching slaves to
+read? Is all this hypocritical, insincere, and impertinent in us? Are we
+never to send another missionary, or make another appeal for foreign
+lands, till we have abolished slavery at home? For my part, I think that
+imperfect and inconsistent outbursts of generosity and feeling are a
+great deal better than none. No nation, no individual is wholly
+consistent and Christian; but let us not in ourselves or in other
+nations repudiate the truest and most beautiful developments of
+humanity, because we have not yet attained perfection. All experience
+has proved that the sublime spirit of foreign missions always is
+suggestive of home philanthropies, and that those whose heart has been
+enlarged by the love of all mankind are always those who are most
+efficient in their own particular sphere.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER III.
+
+
+GLASGOW, April 16, 1853.
+
+DEAR AUNT E.:--
+
+You shall have my earliest Scotch letter; for I am sure nobody can
+sympathize in the emotions of the first approach to Scotland as you can.
+A country dear to us by the memory of the dead and of the living; a
+country whose history and literature, interesting enough of itself, has
+become to us still more so, because the reading and learning of it
+formed part of our communion for many a social hour, with friends long
+parted from earth.
+
+The views of Scotland, which lay on my mother's table, even while I was
+a little child, and in poring over which I spent so many happy, dreamy
+hours,--the Scotch ballads, which were the delight of our evening
+fireside, and which seemed almost to melt the soul out of me, before I
+was old enough to understand their words,--the songs of Burns, which had
+been a household treasure among us,--the enchantments of Scott,--all
+these dimly returned upon me. It was the result of them all which I felt
+in nerve and brain.
+
+And, by the by, that puts me in mind of one thing; and that is, how much
+of our pleasure in literature results from its reflection on us from,
+other minds. As we advance in life, the literature which has charmed us
+in the circle of our friends becomes endeared to us from the reflected
+remembrance of them, of their individualities, their opinions, and their
+sympathies, so that our memory of it is a many-colored cord, drawn from
+many minds.
+
+So in coming near to Scotland, I seemed to feel not only my own
+individuality, but all that my friends would have felt, had they been
+with me. For sometimes we seem to be encompassed, as by a cloud, with a
+sense of the sympathy of the absent and the dead.
+
+We left Liverpool with hearts a little tremulous and excited by the
+vibration of an atmosphere of universal sympathy and kindness. We found
+ourselves, at length, shut from the warm adieus of our friends, in a
+snug compartment of the railroad car. The English cars are models of
+comfort and good keeping. There are six seats in a compartment,
+luxuriously cushioned and nicely carpeted, and six was exactly the
+number of our party. Nevertheless, so obstinate is custom that we
+averred at first that we preferred our American cars, deficient as they
+are in many points of neatness and luxury, because they are so much more
+social.
+
+"Dear me," said Mr. S., "six Yankees shut up in a car together! Not one
+Englishman to tell us any thing about the country! Just like the six old
+ladies that made their living by taking tea at each other's houses."
+
+But that is the way here in England: every arrangement in travelling is
+designed to maintain that privacy and reserve which is the dearest and
+most sacred part of an Englishman's nature. Things are so arranged here
+that, if a man pleases, he can travel all through England with his
+family, and keep the circle an unbroken unit, having just as little
+communication with any thing outside of it as in his own house.
+
+From one of these sheltered apartments in a railroad car, he can pass to
+preëngaged parlors and chambers in the hotel, with his own separate
+table, and all his domestic manners and peculiarities unbroken. In fact,
+it is a little compact home travelling about.
+
+Now, all this is very charming to people who know already as much about
+a country as they want to know; but it follows from it that a stranger
+might travel all through England, from one end to the other and not be
+on conversing terms with a person in it. He may be at the same hotel, in
+the same train with people able to give him all imaginable information,
+yet never touch them at any practicable point of communion. This is more
+especially the case if his party, as ours was, is just large enough to
+fill the whole apartment.
+
+As to the comforts of the cars, it is to be said, that for the same
+price you can get far more comfortable riding in America. Their first
+class cars are beyond all praise, but also beyond all price; their
+second class are comfortless, cushionless, and uninviting. Agreeably
+with our theory of democratic equality, we have a general car, not so
+complete as the one, nor so bare as the other, where all ride together;
+and if the traveller in thus riding sees things that occasionally annoy
+him, when he remembers that the whole population, from the highest to
+the lowest, are accommodated here together, he will certainly see
+hopeful indications in the general comfort, order, and respectability
+which prevail; all which we talked over most patriotically together,
+while we were lamenting that there was not a seventh to our party, to
+instruct us in the localities.
+
+Every thing upon the railroad proceeds with systematic accuracy. There
+is no chance for the most careless person to commit a blunder, or make a
+mistake. At the proper time the conductor marches every body into their
+places and locks them in, gives the word, "All right," and away we go.
+Somebody has remarked, very characteristically, that the starting word
+of the English is "all right," and that of the Americans "go ahead."
+
+Away we go through Lancashire, wide awake, looking out on all sides for
+any signs of antiquity. In being thus whirled through English scenery, I
+became conscious of a new understanding of the spirit and phraseology of
+English poetry. There are many phrases and expressions with which we
+have been familiar from childhood, and which, we suppose, in a kind of
+indefinite way, we understand, which, after all, when we come on English
+ground, start into a new significance: take, for instance, these lines
+from L'Allegro:--
+
+  "Sometimes walking, not unseen,
+  By hedge-row elms on hillocks green.
+
+         *       *       *       *       *
+
+  Straight mine eye hath caught new pleasures,
+  While the landscape round it measures;
+  Russet lawns and fallows gray,
+  Where the nibbling flocks do stray;
+  Mountains, on whose barren breast
+  The laboring clouds do often rest;
+  Meadows trim with daisies pied,
+  Shallow brooks and livers wide:
+  Towers and battlements it sees
+  Bosom'd high in tufted trees."
+
+Now, these hedge-row elms. I had never even asked myself what they were
+till I saw them; but you know, as I said in a former letter, the hedges
+are not all of them carefully cut; in fact many of them are only
+irregular rows of bushes, where, although the hawthorn is the staple
+element, yet firs, and brambles, and many other interlopers put in their
+claim, and they all grow up together in a kind of straggling unity; and
+in the hedges trees are often set out, particularly elms, and have a
+very pleasing effect.
+
+Then, too, the trees have more of that rounding outline which is
+expressed by the word "bosomed." But here we are, right under the walls
+of Lancaster, and Mr. S. wakes me up by quoting, "Old John o' Gaunt,
+time-honored Lancaster."
+
+"Time-honored," said I; "it looks as fresh as if it had been built
+yesterday: you do not mean to say that is the real old castle?"
+
+"To be sure, it is the very old castle built in the reign of Edward
+III., by John of Gaunt."
+
+It stands on the summit of a hill, seated regally like a queen upon a
+throne, and every part of it looks as fresh, and sharp, and clear, as if
+it were the work of modern times. It is used now for a county jail. We
+have but a moment to stop or admire--the merciless steam car drives on.
+We have a little talk about the feudal times, and the old past days;
+when again the cry goes up,--
+
+"O, there's something! What's that?"
+
+"O, that is Carlisle."
+
+"Carlisle!" said I; "what, the Carlisle of Scott's ballad?"
+
+"What ballad?"
+
+"Why, don't you remember, in the Lay of the Last Minstrel, the song of
+Albert Graeme, which has something about Carlisle's wall in every verse?
+
+  'It was an English, laydie bright
+  When sun shines fair on Carlisle wall,
+  And she would marry a Scottish knight,
+  For love will still be lord of all.'
+
+I used to read this when I was a child, and wonder what 'Carlisle wall'
+was."
+
+Carlisle is one of the most ancient cities in England, dating quite back
+to the time of the Romans. Wonderful! How these Romans left their mark
+every where!
+
+Carlisle has also its ancient castle, the lofty, massive tower of which
+forms a striking feature of the town.
+
+This castle was built by William Rufus. David, King of Scots, and Robert
+Bruce both tried their hands upon it, in the good old times, when
+England and Scotland were a mutual robbery association. Then the castle
+of the town was its great feature; castles were every thing in those
+days. Now the castle has gone to decay, and stands only for a curiosity,
+and the cotton factory has come up in its place. This place is famous
+for cottons and ginghams, and moreover for a celebrated biscuit bakery.
+So goes the world,--the lively vigorous shoots of the present springing
+out of the old, mouldering trunk of the past.
+
+Mr. S. was in an ecstasy about an old church, a splendid Gothic, in
+which Paley preached. He was archdeacon of Carlisle. We stopped here for
+a little while to take dinner. In a large, handsome room tables were set
+out, and we sat down to a regular meal.
+
+One sees nothing of a town from a railroad station, since it seems to be
+an invariable rule, not only here, but all over Europe, to locate them
+so that you can see nothing from them.
+
+By the by, I forgot to say, among the historical recollections of this
+place, that it was the first stopping-place of Queen Mary, after her
+fatal flight into England. The rooms which she occupied are still shown
+in the castle, and there are interesting letters and documents extant
+from lords whom Elizabeth sent here to visit her, in which they record
+her beauty, her heroic sentiments, and even her dress; so strong was the
+fascination in which she held all who approached her. Carlisle is the
+scene of the denouement of Guy Mannering, and it is from this town that
+Lord Carlisle gets his title.
+
+And now keep up a bright lookout for ruins and old houses. Mr. S., whose
+eyes are always in every place, allowed none of us to slumber, but
+looking out, first on his own side and then on ours, called our
+attention to every visible thing. If he had been appointed on a mission
+of inquiry he could not have been more zealous and faithful, and I began
+to think that our desire for an English cicerone was quite superfluous.
+
+And now we pass Gretna Green, famous in story--that momentous place
+which marks the commencement of Scotland. It is a little straggling
+village, and there is a roadside inn, which has been the scene of
+innumerable Gretna Green marriages.
+
+Owing to the fact that the Scottish law of marriage is far more liberal
+in its construction than the English, this place has been the refuge of
+distressed lovers from time immemorial; and although the practice of
+escaping here is universally condemned as very naughty and improper,
+yet, like every other impropriety, it is kept in countenance by very
+respectable people. Two lord chancellors have had the amiable weakness
+to fall into this snare, and one lord chancellor's son; so says the
+guide book, which is our Koran for the time being. It says, moreover,
+that it would be easy to add a lengthened list of _distingués_ married
+at Gretna Green; but these lord chancellors (Erskine and Eldon) are
+quoted as being the most melancholy monuments. What shall meaner mortals
+do, when law itself, in all her majesty, wig, gown, and all, goes by the
+board?
+
+Well, we are in Scotland at last, and now our pulse rises as the sun
+declines in the west. We catch glimpses of the Solway Frith, and talk
+about Redgauntlet.
+
+One says, "Do you remember the scene on the sea shore, with which it
+opens, describing the rising of the tide?"
+
+And says another, "Don't you remember those lines in the Young Lochinvar
+song?--
+
+  'Love swells like the Solway, but ebbs like its tide.'"
+
+I wonder how many authors it will take to enchant our country from Maine
+to New Orleans, as every foot of ground is enchanted here in Scotland.
+
+The sun went down, and night drew on; still we were in Scotland. Scotch
+ballads, Scotch tunes, and Scotch literature were in the ascendant. We
+sang "Auld Lang Syne," "Scots wha ha'," and "Bonnie Doon," and then,
+changing the key, sang Dundee, Elgin, and Martyrs.
+
+"Take care," said Mr. S.; "don't get too much excited."
+
+"Ah," said I, "this is a thing that comes only once in a lifetime; do
+let us have the comfort of it. We shall never come into Scotland for the
+_first time_ again."
+
+"Ah," said another, "how I wish Walter Scott was alive!"
+
+While we were thus at the fusion point of enthusiasm, the cars stopped
+at Lockerby, where the real Old Mortality is buried. All was dim and
+dark outside, but we soon became conscious that there was quite a number
+collected, peering into the window, and, with a strange kind of thrill,
+I heard my name inquired for in the Scottish accent. I went to the
+window; there were men, women, and children there, and hand after hand
+was presented, with the words, "Ye're welcome to Scotland!"
+
+Then they inquired for, and shook hands with, all the party, having in
+some mysterious manner got the knowledge of who they were, even down to
+little G----, whom they took to be my son. Was it not pleasant, when I
+had a heart so warm for this old country? I shall never forget the
+thrill of those words, "Ye're welcome to Scotland," nor the "Gude
+night."
+
+After that we found similar welcomes in many succeeding stopping-places;
+and though I did wave a towel out of the window, instead of a pocket
+handkerchief, and commit other awkwardnesses, from not knowing how to
+play my part, yet I fancied, after all, that Scotland and we were coming
+on well together. Who the good souls were that were thus watching for
+us through the night, I am sure I do not know; but that they were of the
+"one blood," which unites all the families of the earth, I felt.
+
+As we came towards Glasgow, we saw, upon a high hill, what we supposed
+to be a castle on fire--great volumes of smoke rolling up, and fire
+looking out of arched windows.
+
+"Dear me, what a conflagration!" we all exclaimed. We had not gone very
+far before we saw another, and then, on the opposite side of the car,
+another still.
+
+"Why, it seems to me the country is all on fire."
+
+"I should think," said Mr. S., "if it was in old times, that there had
+been a raid from the Highlands, and set all the houses on fire."
+
+"Or they might be beacons," suggested C.
+
+To this some one answered out of the Lay of the Last Minstrel,--
+
+  "Sweet Teviot, by thy silver tide
+  The glaring bale-fires blaze no more."
+
+As we drew near to Glasgow these illuminations increased, till the whole
+air was red with the glare of them.
+
+"What can they be?"
+
+"Dear me," said Mr. S., in a tone of sudden recollection, "it's the iron
+works! Don't you know Glasgow is celebrated for its iron works?"
+
+So, after all, in these peaceful fires of the iron works, we got an idea
+how the country might have looked in the old picturesque times, when the
+Highlanders came down and set the Lowlands on fire; such scenes as are
+commemorated in the words of Roderick Dhu's song:--
+
+  "Proudly our pibroch, has thrilled in Glen Fruin,
+    And Banmachar's groans to our slogan replied;
+  Glen Luss and Ross Dhu, they are smoking in ruins,
+    And the best of Loch Lomond lies dead on her side."
+
+To be sure the fires of iron founderies are much less picturesque than
+the old beacons, and the clink of hammers than the clash of claymores;
+but the most devout worshipper of the middle ages would hardly wish to
+change them.
+
+Dimly, by the flickering light of these furnaces, we see the approach to
+the old city of Glasgow. There, we are arrived! Friends are waiting in
+the station house. Earnest, eager, friendly faces, ever so many. Warm
+greetings, kindly words. A crowd parting in the middle, through which we
+were conducted into a carriage, and loud cheers of welcome, sent a
+throb, as the voice of living Scotland.
+
+I looked out of the carriage, as we drove on, and saw, by the light of a
+lantern, Argyle Street. It was past twelve o'clock when I found myself
+in a warm, cozy parlor, with friends, whom I have ever since been glad
+to remember. In a little time we were all safely housed in our
+hospitable apartments, and sleep fell on me for the first time in
+Scotland.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+
+DEAR AUNT E.:--
+
+The next morning I awoke worn and weary, and scarce could the charms of
+the social Scotch breakfast restore me. I say Scotch, for we had many
+viands peculiarly national. The smoking porridge, or parritch, of
+oatmeal, which is the great staple dish throughout Scotland. Then there
+was the bannock, a thin, wafer-like cake of the same material. My friend
+laughingly said when he passed it, "You are in the 'land o' cakes,'
+remember." There was also some herring, as nice a Scottish fish as ever
+wore scales, besides dainties innumerable which were not national.
+
+Our friend and host was Mr. Baillie Paton. I believe that it is to his
+suggestion in a public meeting, that we owe the invitation which brought
+us to Scotland.
+
+By the by, I should say that "baillie" seems to correspond to what we
+call a member of the city council. Mr. Paton told us, that they had
+expected us earlier, and that the day before quite a party of friends
+met at his house to see us, among whom was good old Dr. Wardlaw.
+
+After breakfast the calling began. First, a friend of the family, with
+three beautiful children, the youngest of whom was the bearer of a
+handsomely bound album, containing a pressed collection of the sea
+mosses of the Scottish coast, very vivid and beautiful.
+
+If the bloom of English children appeared to me wonderful, I seemed to
+find the same thing intensified, if possible, in Scotland. The children
+are brilliant as pomegranate blossoms, and their vivid beauty called
+forth unceasing admiration. Nor is it merely the children of the rich,
+or of the higher classes, that are thus gifted. I have seen many a group
+of ragged urchins in the streets and closes with all the high coloring
+of Rubens, and all his fulness of outline. Why is it that we admire
+ragged children on canvas so much more than the same in nature?
+
+All this day is a confused dream to me of a dizzy and overwhelming kind.
+So many letters that it took C---- from nine in the morning till two in
+the afternoon to read and answer them in the shortest manner; letters
+from all classes of people, high and low, rich and poor, in all shades
+and styles of composition, poetry and prose; some mere outbursts of
+feeling; some invitations; some advice and suggestions; some requests
+and inquiries; some presenting books, or flowers, or fruit.
+
+Then came, in their turn, deputations from Paisley, Greenock, Dundee,
+Aberdeen, Edinburgh, and Belfast in Ireland; calls of friendship,
+invitations of all descriptions to go every where, and to see every
+thing, and to stay in so many places. One kind, venerable minister, with
+his lovely daughter, offered me a retreat in his quiet manse on the
+beautiful shores of the Clyde.
+
+For all these kindnesses, what could I give in return? There was scarce
+time for even a grateful thought on each. People have often said to me
+that it must have been an exceeding bore. For my part, I could not think
+of regarding it so. It only oppressed me with an unutterable sadness.
+
+To me there is always something interesting and beautiful about a
+universal popular excitement of a generous character, let the object of
+it be what it may. The great desiring heart of man, surging with one
+strong, sympathetic swell, even though it be to break on the beach of
+life and fall backwards, leaving the sands as barren as before, has yet
+a meaning and a power in its restlessness, with which I must deeply
+sympathize. Nor do I sympathize any the less, when the individual, who
+calls forth such an outburst, can be seen by the eye of sober sense to
+be altogether inadequate and disproportioned to it.
+
+I do not regard it as any thing against our American nation, that we are
+capable, to a very great extent, of these sudden personal enthusiasms,
+because I think that, with an individual or a community, the capability
+of being exalted into a temporary enthusiasm of self-forgetfulness, so
+far from being a fault, has in it a quality of something divine.
+
+Of course, about all such things there is a great deal which a cool
+critic could make ridiculous, but I hold to my opinion of them
+nevertheless.
+
+In the afternoon I rode out with the lord provost to see the cathedral.
+The lord provost answers to the lord mayor in England. His title and
+office in both countries continue only a year, except in cases of
+reëlection.
+
+As I saw the way to the cathedral blocked up by a throng of people, who
+had come out to see me, I could not help saying, "What went ye out for
+to see? a reed shaken with the wind?" In fact, I was so worn out, that I
+could hardly walk through the building.
+
+It is in this cathedral that part of the scene of Rob Roy is laid. This
+was my first experience in cathedrals. It was a new thing to me
+altogether, and as I walked along under the old buttresses and
+battlements without, and looked into the bewildering labyrinths of
+architecture within, I saw that, with silence and solitude to help the
+impression, the old building might become a strong part of one's inner
+life. A grave yard crowded with flat stones lies all around it. A deep
+ravine separates it from another cemetery on an opposite eminence,
+rustling with dark pines. A little brook murmurs with its slender voice
+between.
+
+On this opposite eminence the statue of John Knox, grim and strong,
+stands with its arm uplifted, as if shaking his fist at the old
+cathedral which in life he vainly endeavored to battle down.
+
+Knox was very different from Luther, in that he had no conservative
+element in him, but warred equally against accessories and essentials.
+
+At the time when the churches of Scotland were being pulled down in a
+general iconoclastic crusade, the tradesmen of Glasgow stood for the
+defence of their cathedral, and forced the reformers to content
+themselves with having the idolatrous images of saints pulled down from
+their niches and thrown into the brook, while, as Andrew Fairservice
+hath it, "The auld kirk stood as crouse as a cat when the fleas are
+caimed aff her, and a' body was alike pleased."
+
+We went all through the cathedral, which is fitted up as a Protestant
+place of worship, and has a simple and massive grandeur about it. In
+fact, to quote again from our friend Andrew, we could truly say, "Ah,
+it's a brave kirk, nane o' yere whig-malceries, and curliewurlies, and
+opensteek hems about it--a' solid, weel-jointed mason wark, that will
+stand as lang as the warld, keep hands and gun-powther aff it."
+
+I was disappointed in one thing: the painted glass, if there has ever
+been any, is almost all gone, and the glare of light through the immense
+windows is altogether too great, revealing many defects and rudenesses
+in the architecture, which would have quite another appearance in the
+colored rays through painted windows--an emblem, perhaps, of the cold,
+definite, intellectual rationalism, which has taken the place of the
+many-colored, gorgeous mysticism of former times.
+
+After having been over the church, we requested, out of respect to
+Baillie Nicol Jarvie's memory, to be driven through the Saut Market. I,
+however, was so thoroughly tired that I cannot remember any thing about
+it.
+
+I will say, by the way, that I have found out since, that nothing is so
+utterly hazardous to a person's strength as looking at cathedrals. The
+strain upon the head and eyes in looking up through these immense
+arches, and then the sepulchral chill which abides from generation to
+generation in them, their great extent, and the variety which tempts you
+to fatigue which you are not at all aware of, have overcome, as I was
+told, many before me.
+
+Mr. S. and C----, however, made amends, by their great activity and
+zeal, for all that I could not do, and I was pleased to understand from
+them, that part of the old Tolbooth, where Rob Roy and the baillie had
+their rencontre, was standing safe and sound, with stuff enough in it
+for half a dozen more stories, if any body could be found to write them.
+And Mr. S. insisted upon it, that I should not omit to notify you of
+this circumstance.
+
+Well, in consequence of all this, the next morning I was so ill as to
+need a physician, unable to see any one that called, or to hear any of
+the letters. I passed most of the day in bed, but in the evening I had
+to get up, as I had engaged to drink tea with two thousand people. Our
+kind friends Dr. and Mrs. Wardlaw came after us, and Mr. S. and I went
+in the carriage with them.
+
+Dr. Wardlaw is a venerable-looking old man; we both thought we saw a
+striking resemblance in him to our friend Dr. Woods, of Andover. He is
+still quite active in body and mind, and officiates to his congregation
+with great acceptance. I fear, however, that he is in ill health, for I
+noticed, as we were passing along to church, that he frequently laid his
+hand upon his heart, and seemed in pain. He said he hoped he should be
+able to get through the evening, but that when he was not well,
+excitement was apt to bring on a spasm about the heart; but with it all
+he seemed so cheerful, lively, and benignant, that I could not but feel
+my affections drawn towards him. Mrs. Wardlaw is a gentle, motherly
+woman, and it was a great comfort to have her with me on such an
+occasion.
+
+Our carriage stopped at last at the place. I have a dim remembrance of a
+way being made for us through a great crowd all round the house, and of
+going with Mrs. Wardlaw up into a dressing room, where I met and shook
+hands with many friendly people. Then we passed into a gallery, where a
+seat was reserved for our party, directly in front of the audience. Our
+friend Baillie Paton presided. Mrs. Wardlaw and I sat together, and
+around us many friends, chiefly ministers of the different churches, the
+ladies and gentlemen of the Glasgow Antislavery Society, and others.
+
+I told you it was a tea party; but the arrangements were altogether
+different from any I had ever seen. There were narrow tables stretched
+up and down the whole extent of the great hall, and every person had an
+appointed seat. These tables were set out with cups and saucers, cakes,
+biscuit, &c., and when the proper time came, attendants passed along
+serving tea. The arrangements were so accurate and methodical that the
+whole multitude actually took tea together, without the least apparent
+inconvenience or disturbance.
+
+There was a gentle, subdued murmur of conversation all over the house,
+the sociable clinking of teacups and teaspoons, while the entertainment
+was going on. It seemed to me such an odd idea, I could not help
+wondering what sort of a teapot that must be, in which all this tea for
+two thousand people was made. Truly, as Hadji Baba says, I think they
+must have had the "father of all teakettles" to boil it in. I could not
+help wondering if old mother Scotland had put two thousand teaspoonfuls
+of tea for the company, and one for the teapot, as is our good Yankee
+custom.
+
+We had quite a sociable time up in our gallery. Our tea table stretched
+quite across the gallery, and we drank tea "in sight of all the people."
+By _we_, I mean a great number of ministers and their wives, and ladies
+of the Antislavery Society, besides our party, and the friends whom I
+have mentioned before. All seemed to be enjoying themselves.
+
+After tea they sang a few verses of the seventy-second psalm in the old
+Scotch version.
+
+  "The people's poor ones he shall judge,
+    The needy's children save;
+  And those shall he in pieces break,
+    Who them oppressed have.
+
+  For he the needy shall preserve,
+    When he to him doth call;
+  The poor, also, and him that hath
+    No help of man at all.
+
+  Both from deceit and violence
+    Their soul he shall set free;
+  And in his sight right precious
+    And dear their blood shall be.
+
+  Now blessed be the Lord, our God,
+    The God of Israel,
+  For he alone doth wondrous works,
+    In glory that excel.
+
+  And blessed be his glorious name
+    To all eternity;
+  The whole earth let his glory fill:
+    Amen; so let it be."
+
+When I heard the united sound of all the voices, giving force to these
+simple and pathetic words, I thought I could see something of the reason
+why that rude old translation still holds its place in Scotland.
+
+The addresses were, many of them, very beautiful; the more so for the
+earnest and religious feeling which they manifested. That of Dr.
+Wardlaw, in particular, was full of comfort and encouragement, and
+breathed a most candid and catholic spirit. Could our friends in America
+see with what earnest warmth the religious heart of Scotland beats
+towards them, they would be willing to suffer a word of admonition from
+those to whom love gives a right to speak. As Christians, all have a
+common interest in what honors or dishonors Christianity, and an ocean
+between us does not make us less one church.
+
+Most of the speeches you will see recorded in the papers. In the course
+of the evening there was a second service of grapes, oranges, and other
+fruits, served round in the same quiet manner as the tea. On account of
+the feeble state of my health, they kindly excused me before the
+exercises of the evening were over.
+
+The next morning, at ten o'clock, we rode with a party of friends to see
+some of the _notabilia_. First, to Bothwell Castle, of old the residence
+of the Black Douglas. The name had for me the quality of enchantment. I
+cannot understand nor explain the nature of that sad yearning and
+longing with which one visits the mouldering remains of a state of
+society which one's reason wholly disapproves, and which one's calm
+sense of right would think it the greatest misfortune to have recalled;
+yet when the carriage turned under the shadow of beautiful ancient oaks,
+and Mr. S. said, "There, we are in the grounds of the old Black Douglas
+family!" I felt every nerve shiver. I remembered the dim melodies of
+the Lady of the Lake. Bothwell's lord was the lord of this castle, whose
+beautiful ruins here adorn the banks of the Clyde.
+
+Whatever else we have or may have in America, we shall never have the
+wild, poetic beauty of these ruins. The present noble possessors are
+fully aware of their worth as objects of taste, and, therefore, with the
+greatest care are they preserved. Winding walks are cut through the
+grounds with much ingenuity, and seats or arbors are placed at every
+desirable and picturesque point of view.
+
+To the thorough-paced tourist, who wants to _do_ the proprieties in the
+shortest possible time, this arrangement is undoubtedly particularly
+satisfactory; but to the idealist, who would like to roam, and dream,
+and feel, and to come unexpectedly on the choicest points of view, it is
+rather a damper to have all his raptures prearranged and foreordained
+for him, set down in the guide book and proclaimed by the guide, even
+though it should be done with the most artistic accuracy.
+
+Nevertheless, when we came to the arbor which commanded the finest view
+of the old castle, and saw its gray, ivy-clad walls, standing forth on a
+beautiful point, round which swept the brown, dimpling waves of the
+Clyde, the indescribable sweetness, sadness, wildness of the whole scene
+would make its voice heard in our hearts. "Thy servants take pleasure in
+her dust, and favor the stones thereof," said an old Hebrew poet, who
+must have felt the inexpressibly sad beauty of a ruin. All the splendid
+phantasmagoria of chivalry and feudalism, knights, ladies, banners,
+glittering arms, sweep before us; the cry of the battle, the noise of
+the captains, and the shouting; and then in contrast this deep
+stillness, that green, clinging ivy, the gentle, rippling river, those
+weeping birches, dipping in its soft waters--all these, in their quiet
+loveliness, speak of something more imperishable than brute force.
+
+The ivy on the walls now displays a trunk in some places as large as a
+man's body. In the days of old Archibald the Grim, I suppose that ivy
+was a little, weak twig, which, if he ever noticed, he must have thought
+the feeblest and slightest of all things; yet Archibald has gone back to
+dust, and the ivy is still growing on. Such force is there in gentle
+things.
+
+I have often been dissatisfied with the admiration, which a poetic
+education has woven into my nature, for chivalry and feudalism; but, on
+a closer examination, I am convinced that there is a real and proper
+foundation for it, and that, rightly understood, this poetic admiration
+is not inconsistent with the spirit of Christ.
+
+For, let us consider what it is we admire in these Douglases, for
+instance, who, as represented by Scott, are perhaps as good exponents of
+the idea as any. Was it their hardness, their cruelty, their hastiness
+to take offence, their fondness for blood and murder? All these, by and
+of themselves, are simply disgusting. What, then, do we admire? Their
+courage, their fortitude, their scorn of lying and dissimulation, their
+high sense of personal honor, which led them to feel themselves the
+protectors of the weak, and to disdain to take advantage of unequal odds
+against an enemy. If we read the book of Isaiah, we shall see that some
+of the most striking representations of God appeal to the very same
+principles of our nature.
+
+The fact is, there can be no reliable character which has not its basis
+in these strong qualities. The beautiful must ever rest in the arms of
+the sublime. The gentle needs the strong to sustain it, as much as the
+rock flowers need rocks to grow on, or yonder ivy the rugged wall which
+it embraces. When we are admiring these things, therefore, we are only
+admiring some sparkles and glimmers of that which is divine, and so
+coming nearer to Him in whom all fulness dwells.
+
+After admiring at a distance, we strolled through the ruins themselves.
+Do you remember, in the Lady of the Lake, where the exiled Douglas,
+recalling to his daughter the images of his former splendor, says,--
+
+  "When Blantyre hymned, her holiest lays,
+  And Bothwell's walls flung back the praise"?
+
+These lines came forcibly to my mind, when I saw the mouldering ruins of
+Blantyre priory rising exactly opposite to the castle, on the other side
+of the Clyde.
+
+The banks of the River Clyde, where we walked, were thick set with
+Portuguese laurel, which I have before mentioned as similar to our
+rhododendron. I here noticed a fact with regard to the ivy which had
+often puzzled me; and that is, the different shapes of its leaves in the
+different stages of its growth. The young ivy has this leaf; but when it
+has become more than a century old every trace and indentation melts
+away, and it assumes this form, which I found afterwards to be the
+invariable shape of all the oldest ivy, in all the ruins of Europe which
+I explored.
+
+This ivy, like the spider, takes hold with her hands in kings' palaces,
+as every twig is furnished with innumerable little clinging fingers, by
+which it draws itself close, as it were, to the very heart of the old
+rough stone.
+
+Its clinging and beautiful tenacity has given rise to an abundance of
+conceits about fidelity, friendship, and woman's love, which have become
+commonplace simply from their appropriateness. It might, also, symbolize
+that higher love, unconquerable and unconquered, which has embraced this
+ruined world from age to age, silently spreading its green over the
+rents and fissures of our fallen nature, giving "beauty for ashes, and
+garments of praise for the spirit of heaviness."
+
+There is a modern mansion, where the present proprietor of the estate
+lives. It was with an emotion partaking of the sorrowful, that we heard
+that the Douglas line, as such, was extinct, and that the estate had
+passed to distant connections. I was told that the present Lord Douglas
+is a peaceful clergyman, quite a different character from old Archibald
+the Grim.
+
+The present residence is a plain mansion, standing on a beautiful lawn,
+near the old castle. The head gardener of the estate and many of the
+servants came out to meet us, with faces full of interest. The gardener
+walked about to show us the localities, and had a great deal of the
+quiet intelligence and self-respect which, I think, is characteristic of
+the laboring classes here. I noticed that on the green sweep of the
+lawn, he had set out here and there a good many daisies, as
+embellishments to the grass, and these in many places were defended by
+sticks bent over them, and that, in one place, a bank overhanging the
+stream was radiant with yellow daffodils, which appeared to have come up
+and blossomed there accidentally. I know not whether these were planted
+there, or came up of themselves.
+
+We next went to the famous Bothwell bridge, which Scott has immortalized
+in Old Mortality. We walked up and down, trying to recall the scenes of
+the battle, as there described, and were rather mortified, after we had
+all our associations comfortably located upon it, to be told that it was
+not the same bridge--it had been newly built, widened, and otherwise
+made more comfortable and convenient.
+
+Of course, this was evidently for the benefit of society, but it was
+certainly one of those cases where the poetical suffers for the
+practical. I comforted myself in my despondency, by looking over at the
+old stone piers underneath, which were indisputably the same. We drove
+now through beautiful grounds, and alighted at an elegant mansion, which
+in former days belonged to Lockhart, the son-in-law of Scott. It was in
+this house that Old Mortality was written.
+
+As I was weary, the party left me here, while they went on to see the
+Duke of Hamilton's grounds. Our kind hostess showed me into a small
+study, where she said Old Mortality was written. The window commanded a
+beautiful view of many of the localities described. Scott was as
+particular to consult for accuracy in his local descriptions as if he
+had been writing a guide book.
+
+He was in the habit of noting down in his memorandum book even names and
+characteristics of the wild flowers and grasses that grew about a place.
+When a friend once remarked to him, that he should have supposed his
+imagination could have supplied such trifles, he made an answer that is
+worth remembering by every artist--that no imagination could long
+support its freshness, that was not nourished by a constant and minute
+observation of nature.
+
+Craignethan Castle, which is the original of Tillietudlem, we were
+informed, was not far from thence. It is stated in Lockhart's Life of
+Scott, that the ruins of this castle excited in Scott such delight and
+enthusiasm, that its owner urged him to accept for his lifetime the use
+of a small habitable house, enclosed within the circuit of the walls.
+
+After the return of the party from Hamilton Park, we sat down to an
+elegant lunch, where my eye was attracted more than any thing else, by
+the splendor of the hothouse flowers which adorned the table. So far as
+I have observed, the culture of flowers, both in England and Scotland,
+is more universally an object of attention than with us. Every family in
+easy circumstances seems, as a matter of course, to have their
+greenhouse, and the flowers are brought to a degree of perfection which
+I have never seen at home.
+
+I may as well say here, that we were told by a gentleman, whose name I
+do not now remember, that this whole district had been celebrated for
+its orchards; he added, however, that since the introduction of the
+American apple into the market, its superior excellence had made many of
+these orchards almost entirely worthless. It is a curious fact, showing
+how the new world is working on the old.
+
+After taking leave of our hospitable friends, we took to our carriages
+again. As we were driving slowly through the beautiful grounds,
+admiring, as we never failed to do, their perfect cultivation, a party
+of servants appeared in sight, waving their hats and handkerchiefs, and
+cheering us as we passed. These kindly expressions from them were as
+pleasant as any we received.
+
+In the evening we had engaged to attend another _soirée_, gotten up by
+the working classes, to give admission to many who were not in
+circumstances to purchase tickets for the other. This was to me, if any
+thing, a more interesting _réunion_, because this was just the class
+whom I wished to meet. The arrangements of the entertainment were like
+those of the evening before.
+
+As I sat in the front gallery and looked over the audience with an
+intense interest, I thought they appeared on the whole very much like
+what I might have seen at home in a similar gathering. Men, women, and
+children were dressed in a style which showed both self-respect and good
+taste, and the speeches were far above mediocrity. One pale young man, a
+watchmaker, as I was told afterwards, delivered an address, which,
+though doubtless it had the promising fault of too much elaboration and
+ornament, yet I thought had passages which would do honor to any
+literary periodical whatever.
+
+There were other orators less highly finished, who yet spoke "right on,"
+in a strong, forcible, and really eloquent way, giving the grain of the
+wood without the varnish. They contended very seriously and sensibly,
+that although the working men of England and Scotland had many things to
+complain of, and many things to be reformed, yet their condition was
+world-wide different from that of the slave.
+
+One cannot read the history of the working classes in England, for the
+last fifty years, without feeling sensibly the difference between
+oppressions under a free government and slavery. So long as the working
+class of England produces orators and writers, such as it undoubtedly
+has produced; so long as it has in it that spirit of independence and
+resistance of wrong, which has shown itself more and more during the
+agitations of the last fifty years; and so as long as the law allows
+them to meet and debate, to form associations and committees, to send up
+remonstrances and petitions to government,--one can see that their case
+is essentially different from that of plantation slaves.
+
+I must say, I was struck this night with the resemblance between the
+Scotchman and the New Englander. One sees the distinctive nationality of
+a country more in the middle and laboring classes than in the higher,
+and accordingly at this meeting there was more nationality, I thought,
+than at the other.
+
+The highest class of mind in all countries loses nationality, and
+becomes universal; it is a great pity, too, because nationality is
+picturesque always. One of the greatest miracles to my mind about
+Kossuth was, that with so universal an education, and such an extensive
+range of language and thought, he was yet so distinctively a Magyar.
+
+One thing has surprised and rather disappointed us. Our enthusiasm for
+Walter Scott does not apparently meet a response in the popular breast.
+Allusions to Bannockburn and Drumclog bring down the house, but
+enthusiasm for Scott was met with comparative silence. We discussed this
+matter among ourselves, and rather wondered at it.
+
+The fact is, Scott belonged to a past, and not to the coming age. He
+beautified and adorned that which is waxing old and passing away. He
+loved and worshipped in his very soul institutions which the majority of
+the common people have felt as a restraint and a burden. One might
+naturally get a very different idea of a feudal castle by starving to
+death in the dungeon of it, than by writing sonnets on it at a
+picturesque distance. Now, we in America are so far removed from
+feudalism,--it has been a thing so much of mere song and story with us,
+and our sympathies are so unchecked by any experience of inconvenience
+or injustice in its consequences,--that we are at full liberty to
+appreciate the picturesque of it, and sometimes, when we stand
+overlooking our own beautiful scenery, to wish that we could see,
+
+  "On yon bold brow, a lordly tower;
+  In that soft vale, a lady's bower;
+  In yonder meadow, far away,
+  The turrets of a cloister gray;"
+
+when those who know by experience all the accompaniments of these
+ornaments, would have quite another impression.
+
+Nevertheless, since there are two worlds in man, the real and the ideal,
+and both have indisputably a right to be, since God made the faculties
+of both, we must feel that it is a benefaction to mankind, that Scott
+was thus raised up as the link, in the ideal world, between the present
+and the past. It is a loss to universal humanity to have the imprint of
+any phase of human life and experience entirely blotted out. Scott's
+fictions are like this beautiful ivy, with which all the ruins here are
+overgrown,--they not only adorn, but, in many cases, they actually hold
+together, and prevent the crumbling mass from falling into ruins.
+
+To-morrow we are going to have a sail on the Clyde.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER V.
+
+
+April 17.
+
+MY DEAR SISTER:--
+
+To-day a large party of us started on a small steamer, to go down the
+Clyde. It has been a very, very exciting day to us. It is so stimulating
+to be where every name is a poem. For instance, we start at the
+Broomielaw. This Broomielaw is a kind of wharf, or landing. Perhaps in
+old times it was a haugh overgrown with broom, from whence it gets its
+name; this is only my conjecture, however.
+
+We have a small steamer quite crowded with people, our excursion party
+being very numerous. In a few minutes after starting, somebody says,--
+
+"O, here's where the Kelvin enters." This starts up,--
+
+  "Let us haste to Kelvin Grove."
+
+Then soon we are coming to Dumbarton Castle, and all the tears we shed
+over Miss Porter's William Wallace seem to rise up like a many-colored
+mist about it. The highest peak of the rock is still called Wallace's
+Seat, and a part of the castle, Wallace's Tower; and in one of its
+apartments a huge two-handed sword of the hero is still shown. I
+suppose, in fact, Miss Porter's sentimental hero is about as much like
+the real William Wallace as Daniel Boone is like Sir Charles Grandison.
+Many a young lady, who has cried herself sick over Wallace in the novel,
+would have been in perfect horror if she could have seen the real man.
+Still Dumbarton Castle is not a whit the less picturesque for that. Now
+comes the Leven,--that identical Leven Water known in song,--and on the
+right is Leven Grove.
+
+"There," said somebody to me, "is the old mansion of the Earls of
+Glencairn." Quick as thought, flashed through my mind that most eloquent
+of Burns's poems, the Lament for James, Earl of Glencairn.
+
+  "The bridegroom may forget the bride
+  Was made his wedded wife yestreen;
+  The monarch may forget the crown
+  That on his head an hour hath been;
+  The mother may forget the child
+  That smiles sae sweetly on her knee;
+  But I'll remember thee, Glencairn,
+  And a' that thou hast done for me."
+
+This mansion is now the seat of Graham of Gartmor.
+
+Now we are shown the remains of old Cardross Castle, where it was said
+Robert Bruce breathed his last. And now we come near the beautiful
+grounds of Roseneath, a green, velvet-like peninsula, stretching out
+into the widening waters.
+
+"Peninsula!" said C----. "Why, Walter Scott said it was an island."
+
+Certainly, he did declare most explicitly in the person of Mr.
+Archibald, the Duke of Argyle's serving man, to Miss Dollie Dutton, when
+she insisted on going to it by land, that Roseneath was an island. It
+shows that the most accurate may be caught tripping sometimes.
+
+Of course, our heads were full of David Deans, Jeanie, and Effie, but we
+saw nothing of them. The Duke of Argyle's Italian mansion is the most
+conspicuous object.
+
+Hereupon there was considerable discussion on the present Duke of Argyle
+among the company, from which we gathered that he stood high in favor
+with the popular mind. One said that there had been an old prophecy,
+probably uttered somewhere up in the Highlands, where such things are
+indigenous, that a very good duke of Argyle was to arise having red
+hair, and that the present duke had verified the prediction by uniting
+both requisites. They say that he is quite a young man, with a small,
+slight figure, but with a great deal of energy and acuteness of mind,
+and with the generous and noble traits which have distinguished his
+house in former times. He was a pupil of Dr. Arnold, a member of the
+National Scotch Kirk, and generally understood to be a serious and
+religious man. He is one of the noblemen who have been willing to come
+forward and make use of his education and talent in the way of popular
+lectures at lyceums and athenæums; as have also the Duke of Newcastle,
+the Earl of Carlisle, and some others. So the world goes on. I must
+think, with all deference to poetry, that it is much better to deliver a
+lyceum lecture than to head a clan in battle; though I suppose, a
+century and a half ago, had the thing been predicted to McCallummore's
+old harper, he would have been greatly at a loss to comprehend the
+nature of the transaction.
+
+Somewhere about here, I was presented, by his own request, to a
+broad-shouldered Scotch farmer, who stood some six feet two, and who
+paid me the compliment to say, that he had read my book, and that he
+would walk six miles to see me any day. Such a flattering evidence of
+discriminating taste, of course, disposed my heart towards him; but when
+I went up and put my hand into his great prairie of a palm, I was as a
+grasshopper in my own eyes. I inquired who he was, and was told he was
+one of the Duke of Argyle's farmers. I thought to myself, if all the
+duke's farmers were of this pattern, that he might be able to speak to
+the enemy in the gates to some purpose.
+
+Roseneath occupies the ground between the Gare Loch and Loch Long. The
+Gare Loch is the name given to a bay formed by the River Clyde, here
+stretching itself out like a lake. Here we landed and went on shore,
+passing along the sides of the loch, in the little village of Row.
+
+As we were walking along a carriage came up after us, in which were two
+ladies. A bunch of primroses, thrown from this carriage, fell at my
+feet. I picked it up, and then the carriage stopped, and the ladies
+requested to know if I was Mrs. Stowe. On answering in the affirmative,
+they urged me so earnestly to come under their roof and take some
+refreshment, that I began to remember, what I had partly lost sight of,
+that I was very tired; so, while the rest of the party walked on to get
+a distant view of Ben Lomond, Mr. S. and I suffered ourselves to be
+taken into the carriage of our unknown friends, and carried up to a
+charming little Italian villa, which stood, surrounded by flower gardens
+and pleasure grounds, at the head of the loch. We were ushered into a
+most comfortable parlor, where a long window, made of one clear unbroken
+sheet of plate glass, gave a perfect view of the loch with all its woody
+shores, with Roseneath Castle in the distance. My good hostesses
+literally overwhelmed me with kindness; but as there was nothing I
+really needed so much as a little quiet rest, they took me to a cozy
+bedroom, of which they gave me the freedom, for the present. Does not
+every traveller know what a luxury it is to shut one's eyes sometimes?
+The chamber, which is called "Peace," is now, as it was in Christian's
+days, one of the best things that Charity or Piety could offer to the
+pilgrim. Here I got a little brush from the wings of dewy-feathered
+sleep.
+
+After a while our party came back, and we had to be moving. My kind
+friends expressed so much joy at having met me, that it was really
+almost embarrassing. They told me that they, being confined to the house
+by ill health, and one of them by lameness, had had no hope of ever
+seeing me, and that this meeting seemed a wonderful gift of Providence.
+They bade me take courage and hope, for they felt assured that the Lord
+would yet entirely make an end of slavery through the world.
+
+It was concluded, after we left here, that, instead of returning by the
+boat, we should take carriage and ride home along the banks of the
+river. In our carriage were Mr. S. and myself, Dr. Robson and Lady
+Anderson. About this time I commenced my first essay towards giving
+titles, and made, as you may suppose, rather an odd piece of work of it,
+generally saying "Mrs." first, and "Lady" afterwards, and then begging
+pardon. Lady Anderson laughed, and said she would give me a general
+absolution. She is a truly genial, hearty Scotch woman, and seemed to
+enter happily into the spirit of the hour.
+
+As we rode on we found that the news of our coming had spread through
+the village. People came and stood in their doors, beckoning, bowing,
+smiling, and waving their handkerchiefs, and the carriage was several
+times stopped by persons who came to offer flowers. I remember, in
+particular, a group of young girls brought to the carriage two of the
+most beautiful children I ever saw, whose little hands literally deluged
+us with flowers.
+
+At the village of Helensburgh we stopped a little while to call upon
+Mrs. Bell, the wife of Mr. Bell, the inventor of the steamboat. His
+invention in this country was about the same time of that of Fulton in
+America. Mrs. Bell came to the carriage to speak to us. She is a
+venerable woman, far advanced in years. They had prepared a lunch for
+us, and quite a number of people had come together to meet us, but our
+friends said that there was not time for us to stop.
+
+We rode through several villages after this, and met quite warm welcome.
+What pleased me was, that it was not mainly from the literary, nor the
+rich, nor the great, but the plain, common people. The butcher came out
+of his stall, and the baker from his shop, the miller, dusty with his
+flour, the blooming, comely, young mother, with her baby in her arms,
+all smiling and bowing with that hearty, intelligent, friendly look, as
+if they knew we should be glad to see them.
+
+Once, while we stopped to change horses, I, for the sake of seeing
+something more of the country, walked on. It seems the honest landlord
+and his wife were greatly disappointed at this; however, they got into
+the carriage and rode on to see me, and I shook hands with them with a
+right good will.
+
+We saw several of the clergymen, who came out to meet us, and I remember
+stopping, just to be introduced to a most delightful family who came
+out, one by one, gray-headed father and mother, with comely brothers and
+fair sisters, looking all so kindly and home-like, that I would have
+been glad to use the welcome that they gave me to their dwelling.
+
+This day has been a strange phenomenon to me. In the first place, I have
+seen in all these villages how universally the people read. I have seen
+how capable they are of a generous excitement and enthusiasm, and how
+much may be done by a work of fiction, so written as to enlist those
+sympathies which are common to all classes. Certainly, a great deal may
+be effected in this way, if God gives to any one the power, as I hope
+he will to many. The power of fictitious writing, for good as well as
+evil, is a thing which ought most seriously to be reflected on. No one
+can fail to see that in our day it is becoming a very great agency.
+
+We came home quite tired, as you may well suppose. You will not be
+surprised that the next day I found myself more disposed to keep my bed
+than to go out. I regretted it, because, being Sunday, I would like to
+have heard some of the preachers of Glasgow. I was, however, glad of one
+quiet day to recall my thoughts, for I had been whirling so rapidly from
+scene to scene, that I needed time to consider where I was; especially
+as we were to go to Edinburgh on the morrow.
+
+Towards sunset Mr. S. and I strolled out entirely alone to breathe a
+little fresh air. We walked along the banks of the Kelvin, quite down to
+its junction with the Clyde. The Kelvin Grove of the ballad is all cut
+away, and the Kelvin flows soberly between stone walls, with a footpath
+on each side, like a stream that has learned to behave itself.
+
+"There," said Mr. S., as we stood on the banks of the Clyde, now lying
+flushed and tranquil in the light of the setting sun, "over there is
+Ayrshire."
+
+"Ayrshire!" I said; "what, where Burns lived?"
+
+"Yes, there is his cottage, far down to the south, and out of sight, of
+course; and there are the bonny banks of Ayr."
+
+It seemed as if the evening air brought a kind of sigh with it. Poor
+Burns! how inseparably he has woven himself with the warp and woof of
+every Scottish association!
+
+We saw a great many children of the poor out playing--rosy, fine little
+urchins, worth, any one of them, a dozen bleached, hothouse flowers. We
+stopped to hear them talk, and it was amusing to hear the Scotch of
+Walter Scott and Burns shouted out with such a right good will. We were
+as much struck by it as an honest Yankee was in Paris by the proficiency
+of the children in speaking French.
+
+The next day we bade farewell to Glasgow, overwhelmed with kindness to
+the last, and only oppressed by the thought, how little that was
+satisfactory we were able to give in return.
+
+Again in the railroad car on our way to Edinburgh. A pleasant two hours'
+trip is this from Glasgow to Edinburgh. When the cars stopped at
+Linlithgow station, the name started us as out of a dream.
+
+There, sure enough, before our eyes, on a gentle eminence stood the
+mouldering ruins of which Scott has sung:--
+
+  "Of all the palaces so fair,
+    Built for the royal dwelling,
+  In Scotland, far beyond compare
+    Linlithgow is excelling;
+  And in its park in genial June,
+  How sweet the merry linnet's tune,
+    How blithe the blackbird's lay!
+  The wild buck's bells from thorny brake.
+  The coot dives merry on the lake,--
+  The saddest heart might pleasure take,
+    To see a scene so gay."
+
+Here was born that woman whose beauty and whose name are set in the
+strong, rough Scotch heart, as a diamond in granite. Poor Mary! When her
+father, who lay on his death bed at that time in Falkland, was told of
+her birth, he answered, "Is it so? Then God's will be done! It [the
+kingdom] came with a lass, and it will go with a lass!" With these words
+he turned his face to the wall, and died of a broken heart. Certainly,
+some people appear to be born under an evil destiny.
+
+Here, too, in Linlithgow church, tradition says that James IV. was
+warned, by a strange apparition, against that expedition to England
+which cost him his life. Scott has worked this incident up into a
+beautiful description, in the fourth canto of Marmion.
+
+The castle has a very sad and romantic appearance, standing there all
+alone as it does, looking down into the quiet lake. It is said that the
+internal architectural decorations are exceedingly rich and beautiful,
+and a resemblance has been traced between its style of ornament and that
+of Heidelberg Castle, which has been accounted for by the fact that the
+Princess Elizabeth, who was the sovereign lady of Heidelberg, spent many
+of the earlier years of her life in this place.
+
+Not far from here we caught a glimpse of the ruins of Niddrie Castle,
+where Mary spent the first night after her escape from Lochleven.
+
+The Avon here at Linlithgow is spanned by a viaduct, which is a fine
+work of art. It has twenty-five arches, which are from seventy to eighty
+feet high and fifty wide.
+
+As the cars neared Edinburgh we all exclaimed at its beauty, so worthily
+commemorated by Scott:--
+
+  "Such dusky grandeur clothes the height,
+  Where the huge castle holds its state,
+    And all the steeps slope down,
+  Whose ridgy back heaves to the sky,
+  Piled deep and massy, close and high,
+    Mine own romantic town!"
+
+Edinburgh has had an effect on the literary history of the world for the
+last fifty years, that cannot be forgotten by any one approaching her.
+The air seemed to be full of spirits of those who, no longer living,
+have woven a part of the thread of our existence. I do not know that the
+shortness of human life ever so oppressed me as it did on coming near to
+the city.
+
+At the station house the cars stopped amid a crowd of people, who had
+assembled to meet us. The lord provost met us at the door of the car,
+and presented us to the magistracy of the city, and the committees of
+the Edinburgh antislavery societies. The drab dresses and pure white
+bonnets of many Friends were conspicuous among the dense moving crowd,
+as white doves seen against a dark cloud. Mr. S. and myself, and our
+future hostess, Mrs. Wigham, entered the carriage with the lord provost,
+and away we drove, the crowd following with their shouts and cheers. I
+was inexpressibly touched and affected by this. While we were passing
+the monument of Scott, I felt an oppressive melancholy. What a moment
+life seems in the presence of the noble dead! What a momentary thing is
+art, in all its beauty! Where are all those great souls that have
+created such an atmosphere of light about Edinburgh? and how little a
+space was given them to live and to enjoy!
+
+We drove all over Edinburgh, up to the castle, to the university, to
+Holyrood, to the hospitals, and through many of the principal streets,
+amid shouts, and smiles, and greetings. Some boys amused me very much by
+their pertinacious attempts to keep up with the carriage.
+
+"Heck," says one of them, "that's _her_; see the _courls_."
+
+The various engravers, who have amused themselves by diversifying my
+face for the public, having all, with great unanimity, agreed in giving
+prominence to this point, I suppose the urchins thought they were on
+safe ground there. I certainly think I answered one good purpose that
+day, and that is, of giving the much oppressed and calumniated class,
+called boys, an opportunity to develop all the noise that was in them--a
+thing for which I think they must bless me in their remembrances.
+
+At last the carriage drove into a deep gravelled yard, and we alighted
+at a porch covered with green ivy, and found ourselves once more at
+home.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+
+MY DEAR SISTER:--
+
+You may spare your anxieties about me, for I do assure you, that if I
+were an old Sevres China jar, I could not have more careful handling
+than I do. Every body is considerate; a great deal to say, when there
+appears to be so much excitement. Every body seems to understand how
+good for nothing I am; and yet, with all this consideration, I have been
+obliged to keep my room and bed for a good part of the time. One
+agreeable feature of the matter is, it gave me an opportunity to make
+the acquaintance of the celebrated homoeopathic physician, Dr.
+Henderson, in whose experiments and experience I had taken some interest
+while in America.
+
+Of the multitudes who have called, I have seen scarcely any.
+
+Mrs. W., with whom I am staying, is a most thoughtful nurse. They are
+Friends, and nothing can be more a pattern of rational home enjoyment,
+without ostentation and without parade, than a Quaker family.
+
+Though they reject every thing in arrangement which savors of
+ostentation and worldly show, yet their homes are exquisite in point of
+comfort. They make great use of flowers and natural specimens in
+adorning their apartments, and also indulge to a chaste and moderate
+extent in engravings and works of art. So far as I have observed, they
+are all "tee-totalers;" giving, in this respect, the whole benefit of
+their example to the temperance cause.
+
+To-morrow evening is to be the great tea party here. How in the world I
+am ever to live through it, I don't know.
+
+The amount of letters we found waiting for us here in Edinburgh was, if
+possible, more appalling than in Glasgow. Among those from persons whom
+you would be interested in hearing of, I may mention, a very kind and
+beautiful one from the Duchess of Sutherland, and one also from the Earl
+of Carlisle, both desiring to make appointments for meeting us as soon
+as we come to London. Also a very kind and interesting note from the
+Rev. Mr. Kingsley and lady. I look forward with a great deal of interest
+to passing a little time with them in their rectory. Letters also from
+Mr. Binney and Mr. Sherman, two of the leading Congregational clergymen
+of London. The latter officiates at Surrey Chapel, which was established
+by Rowland Hill. Both contain invitations to us to visit them in London.
+
+As to all engagements, I am in a state of happy acquiescence, having
+resigned myself, as a very tame lion, into the hands of my keepers.
+Whenever the time comes for me to do any thing, I try to behave as well
+as I can, which, as Dr. Young says, is all that an angel could do in the
+same circumstances.
+
+As to these letters, many of them are mere outbursts of feeling; yet
+they are interesting as showing the state of the public mind. Many of
+them are on kindred topics of moral reform, in which they seem to have
+an intuitive sense that we should be interested. I am not, of course,
+able to answer them all, but C---- does, and it takes a good part of
+every day. One was from a shoemaker's wife in one of the islands, with a
+copy of very fair verses. Many have come accompanying little keepsakes
+and gifts. It seems to me rather touching and sad, that people should
+want to give me things, when I am not able to give an interview, or even
+a note, in return. C---- wrote from six to twelve o'clock, steadily,
+answering letters.
+
+April 26. Last night came off the _soirée_. The hall was handsomely
+decorated with flags in front. We went with the lord provost in his
+carriage. The getting in to the hall is quite an affair, I assure you,
+the doorway is blocked up by such a dense crowd; yet there is something
+very touching about these crowds. They open very gently and quietly, and
+they do not look at you with a rude stare, but with faces full of
+feeling and intelligence. I have seen some looks that were really
+beautiful; they go to my heart. The common people appear as if they knew
+that our hearts were with them. How else should it be, as Christians of
+America?--a country which, but for one fault, all the world has reason
+to love.
+
+We went up, as before, into a dressing room, where I was presented to
+many gentlemen and ladies. When we go in, the cheering, clapping, and
+stamping at first strikes one with a strange sensation; but then every
+body looks so heartily pleased and delighted, and there is such an
+all-pervading atmosphere of geniality and sympathy, as makes one in a
+few moments feel quite at home. After all I consider that these cheers
+and applauses, are Scotland's voice to America, a recognition of the
+brotherhood of the countries.
+
+We were arranged at this meeting much as in Glasgow. The lord provost
+presided; and in the gallery with us were distinguished men from the
+magistracy, the university, and the ministry, with their wives, besides
+the members of the antislavery societies. The lord provost, I am told,
+has been particularly efficient in all benevolent operations, especially
+those for the education of the poorer classes. He is also a zealous
+supporter of the temperance cause.
+
+Among the speakers, I was especially interested in Dr. Guthrie, who
+seems to be also a particular favorite of the public. He is a tall, thin
+man, with a kind of quaintness in his mode of expressing himself, which
+sometimes gives an air of drollery to his speaking. He is a minister of
+the Free Church, and has more particularly distinguished himself by his
+exertions in behalf of the poorer classes.
+
+One passage in his speech I will quote, for I was quite amused with it.
+It was in allusion to the retorts which had been made in Mrs. Tyler's
+letter to the ladies of England, on the defects in the old country.
+
+"I do not deny," he said, "that there are defects in our country. What I
+say of them is this--that they are incidental very much to an old
+country like our own. Dr. Simpson knows very well, and so does every
+medical man, that when a man gets old he gets very infirm, his blood
+vessels get ossified, and so on; but I shall not enter into that part of
+the subject. What is true of an old country is true of old men, and old
+women, too. I am very much disposed to say of this young nation of
+America, that their teasing us with our defects might just get the
+answer which a worthy member of the church of Scotland gave to his son,
+who was so dissatisfied with the defects in the church, that he was
+determined to go over to a younger communion. 'Ah, Sandy, Sandy, man,
+when your lum reeks as lang as ours, it will, may be, need sweeping
+too.'[J] Now, I do not deny that we need sweeping; every body knows
+that I have been singing out about sweeping for the last five years. Let
+me tell my good friends in Edinburgh, and in the country, that the
+sooner you sweep the better; for the chimney may catch fire, and reduce
+your noble fabric to ashes.
+
+"They told us in that letter about the poor needlewomen, that had to
+work sixteen hours a day. ''Tis true, and pity 'tis 'tis true.' But does
+the law compel them to work sixteen hours a day? I would like to ask the
+writer of the letter. Are they bound down to their garrets and cellars
+for sixteen hours a day? May they not go where they like, and ask better
+wages and better work? Can the slave do that? Do they tell us of our
+ragged children? I know something about ragged children. But are our
+ragged children condemned to the street? If I, or the lord provost, or
+any other benevolent man, should take one of them from the street and
+bring it to the school, dare the policeman--miscalled officer of
+justice--put his foot across the door to drag it out again to the
+street? Nobody means to defend our defects; does any man attempt to
+defend them? Were not these noble ladies and excellent women, titled and
+untitled, among the very first to seek to redress them?"
+
+I wish I could give you the strong, broad Scotch accent.
+
+The national penny offering, consisting of a thousand golden sovereigns
+on a magnificent silver salver, stood conspicuously in view of the
+audience. It has been an unsolicited offering, given in the smallest
+sums, often from the extreme poverty of the giver. The committee who
+collected it in Edinburgh and Glasgow bore witness to the willingness
+with which the very poorest contributed the offering of their sympathy.
+In one cottage they found a blind woman, and said, "Here, at least, is
+one who will feel no interest, as she cannot have read the book."
+
+"Indeed," said the old lady, "if I cannot read, my son has read it to
+me, and I've got my penny saved to give."
+
+It is to my mind extremely touching to see how the poor, in their
+poverty, can be moved to a generosity surpassing that of the rich. Nor
+do I mourn that they took it from their slender store, because I know
+that a penny given from a kindly impulse is a greater comfort and
+blessing to the poorest giver than even a penny received.
+
+As in the case of the other meeting, we came out long before the
+speeches were ended. Well, of course, I did not sleep any all night. The
+next day I felt quite miserable. Mrs. W. went with Mr. S. and myself for
+a quiet drive in her carriage.
+
+It was a beautiful, sunny day that we drove out to Craigmiller Castle,
+formerly one of the royal residences. It was here that Mary retreated
+after the murder of Rizzio, and where, the chronicler says, she was
+often heard in those days wishing that she were in her grave. It seems
+so strange to see it standing there all alone, in the midst of grassy
+fields, so silent, and cold, and solitary. I got out of the carriage and
+walked about it. The short, green grass was gemmed with daisies, and
+sheep were peacefully feeding and resting, where was once all the life
+and bustle of a court.
+
+We had no one to open the inside of the castle for us, where there are
+still some tolerably preserved rooms, but we strolled listlessly about,
+looking through the old arches, and peeping through slits and loopholes
+into the interior.
+
+The last verse of Queen Mary's lamentation seemed to be sighing in the
+air:--
+
+  "O, soon for me shall simmer's suns
+    Nae mair light up the morn;
+  Nae mair for me the autumn wind
+    Wave o'er the yellow corn.
+  But in the narrow house of death
+    Let winter round me rave,
+  And the next flowers that deck the spring
+    Bloom on my peaceful grave."
+
+Only yesterday, it seemed, since that poor heart was yearning and
+struggling, caught in the toils of this sorrowful life. How many times
+she looked on this landscape through sad eyes! I suppose just such
+little daisies grew here in the grass then, and perhaps she stooped and
+picked them, wishing, just as I do, that the pink did not grow on the
+under side of them, where it does not show. Do you know that this little
+daisy is the _gowan_ of Scotch poetry? So I was told by a "charming
+young Jessie" in Glasgow, one day when I was riding out there.
+
+The view from Craigmiller is beautiful--Auld Reekie, Arthur's Seat,
+Salisbury Crags, and far down the Frith of Forth, where we can just
+dimly see the Bass Hock, celebrated as a prison, where the Covenanters
+were immured.
+
+It was this fortress that Habakkuk Mucklewrath speaks of in his ravings,
+when he says, "Am not I Habakkuk Mucklewrath, whose name is changed to
+Magor-Missabib, because I am made a terror unto myself, and unto all
+that are around me? I heard it: when did I hear it? Was it not in the
+tower of the Bass, that overhangeth the wide, wild sea? and it howled in
+the winds, and it roared in the billows, and it screamed, and it
+whistled, and it clanged, with the screams, and the clang, and the
+whistle of the sea birds, as they floated, and flew, and dropped, and
+dived, on the bosom of the waters."
+
+These Salisbury Crags, which overlook Edinburgh, have a very peculiar
+outline; they resemble an immense elephant crouching down. We passed
+Mushats Cairn, where Jeanie Deans met Robertson; and saw Liberton, where
+Reuben Butler was a schoolmaster. Nobody doubts, I hope, the historical
+accuracy of these points.
+
+Thursday, 21st. We took cars for Aberdeen. The appropriation of old
+historical names to railroad stations often reminds me of Hood's
+whimsical lines on a possible railroad in the Holy Land. Think of having
+Bannockburn shouted by the station master, as the train runs whistling
+up to a small station house. Nothing to be seen there but broad, silent
+meadows, through which the burn wimples its way. Here was the very
+Marathon of Scotland. I suppose we know more about it from the "Scots
+wha ha' wi' Wallace bled," than we do from history; yet the real scene,
+as narrated by the historian, has a moral grandeur in it.
+
+The chronicler tells us, that when on this occasion the Scots formed
+their line of battle, and a venerable abbot passed along, holding up the
+cross before them, the whole army fell upon their knees.
+
+"These Scots will not fight," said Edward, who was reconnoitring at a
+distance. "See! they are all on their knees now to beg for mercy."
+
+"They kneel," said a lord who stood by, "but it is to God alone; trust
+me, those men will win or die."
+
+The bold lyric of Burns is but an inspired kind of version of the real
+address which Bruce is said to have made to his followers; and whoever
+reads it will see that its power lies not in appeal to brute force, but
+to the highest elements of our nature, the love of justice, the sense of
+honor, and to disinterestedness, self-sacrifice, courage unto death.
+
+These things will live and form high and imperishable elements of our
+nature, when mankind have learned to develop them in other spheres than
+that of physical force. Burns's lyric, therefore, has in it an element
+which may rouse the heart to noble endurance and devotion, even when the
+world shall learn war no more.
+
+We passed through the town of Stirling, whose castle, magnificently
+seated on a rocky throne, looks right worthy to have been the seat of
+Scotland's court, as it was for many years. It brought to our minds all
+the last scenes of the Lady of the Lake, which are laid here with a
+minuteness of local description and allusion characteristic of Scott.
+
+According to our guide book, one might find there the visible
+counterpart of every thing which he has woven into his beautiful
+fiction--"the Lady's Rock, which rang to the applause of the multitude;"
+"the Franciscan steeple, which pealed the merry festival;" "the sad and
+fatal mound," apostrophized by Douglas,--
+
+  "That oft has heard the death-axe sound
+  As on the noblest of the land,
+  Fell the stern headsman's bloody hand;"--
+
+the room in the castle, where "a Douglas by his sovereign bled;" and not
+far off the ruins of Cambuskenneth Abbey. One could not but think of the
+old days Scott has described.
+
+  "The castle gates were open flung,
+  The quivering drawbridge rocked and rung,
+  And echoed loud the flinty street
+  Beneath the coursers' clattering feet,
+  As slowly down the steep descent
+  Fair Scotland's king and nobles went,
+  While all along the crowded way
+  Was jubilee and loud huzza."
+
+The place has been long deserted as a palace; but it is one of the four
+fortresses, which, by the articles of union between Scotland and
+England, are always to be kept in repair.
+
+We passed by the town of Perth, the scene of the "Fair Maid's"
+adventures. We had received an invitation to visit it, but for want of
+time were obliged to defer it till our return to Scotland.
+
+Somewhere along here Mr. S. was quite excited by our proximity to
+Scone, the old crowning-place of the Scottish kings; however, the old
+castle is entirely demolished, and superseded by a modern mansion, the
+seat of the Earl of Mansfield.
+
+Still farther on, surrounded by dark and solemn woods, stands Glamis
+Castle, the scene of the tragedy in Macbeth. We could see but a glimpse
+of it from the road, but the very sound of the name was enough to
+stimulate our imagination. It is still an inhabited dwelling, though
+much to the regret of antiquarians and lovers of the picturesque, the
+characteristic outworks and defences of the feudal ages, which
+surrounded it, have been levelled, and velvet lawns and gravel walks
+carried to the very door. Scott, who passed a night there in 1793, while
+it was yet in its pristine condition, comments on the change mournfully,
+as undoubtedly a true lover of the past would. Albeit the grass plats
+and the gravel walks, to the eye of sense, are undoubtedly much more
+agreeable and convenient. Scott says in his Demonology, that he never
+came any where near to being overcome with a superstitious feeling,
+except twice in his life, and one was on the night when he slept in
+Glamis Castle. The poetical and the practical elements in Scott's mind
+ran together, side by side, without mixing, as evidently as the waters
+of the Alleghany and Monongahela at Pittsburg. Scarcely ever a man had
+so much relish for the supernatural, and so little faith in it. One must
+confess, however, that the most sceptical might have been overcome at
+Glamis Castle, for its appearance, by all accounts, is weird and
+strange, and ghostly enough to start the dullest imagination.
+
+On this occasion Scott says, "After a very hospitable reception from the
+late Peter Proctor, seneschal of the castle, I was conducted to my
+apartment in a distant part of the building. I must own, that when I
+heard door after door shut, after my conductor had retired, I began to
+consider myself as too far from the living, and somewhat too near the
+dead. We had passed through what is called 'the King's Room,' a vaulted
+apartment, garnished with stags' antlers and similar trophies of the
+chase, and said by tradition to be the spot of Malcolm's murder, and I
+had an idea of the vicinity of the castle chapel. In spite of the truth
+of history, the whole night scene in Macbeth's castle rushed at once
+upon my mind, and struck my imagination more forcibly than even when I
+have seen its terrors represented by the late John Kemble and his
+inimitable sister. In a word, I experienced sensations which, though not
+remarkable either for timidity or superstition, did not fail to affect
+me to the point of being disagreeable, while they were mingled at the
+same time with a strange and indescribable kind of pleasure."
+
+Externally, the building is quaint and singular enough; tall and gaunt,
+crested with innumerable little pepper box turrets and conical towers,
+like an old French chateau.
+
+Besides the tragedy of Macbeth, another story of still more melancholy
+interest is connected with it, which a pen like that of Hawthorne, might
+work up with gloomy power.
+
+In 1537 the young and beautiful Lady Glamis of this place was actually
+tried and executed for witchcraft. Only think, now! what capabilities in
+this old castle, with its gloomy pine shades, quaint architecture, and
+weird associations, with this bit of historic verity to start upon.
+
+Walter Scott says, there is in the castle a secret chamber; the entrance
+to which, by the law of the family, can be known only to three persons
+at once--the lord of the castle, his heir apparent, and any third
+person whom they might choose to take into their confidence. See, now,
+the materials which the past gives to the novelist or poet in these old
+countries. These ancient castles are standing romances, made to the
+author's hands. The castle started a talk upon Shakspeare, and how much
+of the tragedy he made up, and how much he found ready to his hand in
+tradition and history. It seems the story is all told in Holingshed's
+Chronicles; but his fertile mind has added some of the most thrilling
+touches, such as the sleep walking of Lady Macbeth. It always seemed to
+me that this tragedy had more of the melancholy majesty and power of
+the Greek than any thing modern. The striking difference is, that while
+fate was the radical element of those, free will is not less distinctly
+the basis of this. Strangely enough, while it commences with a
+supernatural oracle, there is not a trace of fatalism in it; but through
+all, a clear, distinct recognition of moral responsibility, of the power
+to resist evil, and the guilt of yielding to it. The theology of
+Shakspeare is as remarkable as his poetry. A strong and clear sense of
+man's moral responsibility and free agency, and of certain future
+retribution, runs through all his plays.
+
+I enjoyed this ride to Aberdeen more than any thing we had seen yet, the
+country is so wild and singular. In the afternoon we came in sight of
+the German Ocean. The free, bracing air from the sea, and the thought
+that it actually _was_ the German Ocean, and that over the other side
+was Norway, within a day's sail of us, gave it a strange, romantic
+charm.
+
+"Suppose we just run over to Norway," said one of us; and then came the
+idea, what we should do if we got over there, seeing none of us
+understood Norse.
+
+The whole coast along here is wild and rock-bound; occasionally long
+points jut into the sea; the blue waves sparkle and dash against them in
+little jets of foam, and the sea birds dive and scream around them.
+
+On one of these points, near the town of Stonehaven, are still seen the
+ruins of Dunottar Castle, bare and desolate, surrounded on all sides by
+the restless, moaning waves; a place justly held accursed as the scene
+of cruelties to the Covenanters, so appalling and brutal as to make the
+blood boil in the recital, even in this late day.
+
+During the reigns of Charles and James, sovereigns whom Macaulay justly
+designates as Belial and Moloch, this castle was the state prison for
+confining this noble people. In the reign of James, one hundred and
+sixty-seven prisoners, men, women, and children, for refusing the oath
+of supremacy, were arrested at their firesides: herded together like
+cattle; driven at the point of the bayonet, amid the gibes, jeers, and
+scoffs of soldiers, up to this dreary place, and thrust promiscuously
+into a dark vault in this castle; almost smothered in filth and mire; a
+prey to pestilent disease, and to every malignity which brutality could
+inflict, they died here unpitied. A few escaping down the rocks were
+recaptured, and subjected to shocking tortures.
+
+A moss-grown gravestone, in the parish churchyard of Dunottar, shows the
+last resting-place of these sufferers.
+
+Walter Scott, who visited this place, says, "The peasantry continue to
+attach to the tombs of these victims an honor which they do not render
+to more splendid mausoleums; and when they point them out to their sons,
+and narrate the fate of the sufferers, usually conclude by exhorting
+them to be ready, should the times call for it, to resist to the death
+in the cause of civil and religious liberty, like their brave
+forefathers."
+
+It is also related by Gilfillan, that a minister from this vicinity,
+having once lost his way in travelling through a distant part of
+Scotland, vainly solicited the services of a guide for some time, all
+being engaged in peat-cutting; at last one of the farmers, some of whose
+ancestors had been included among the sufferers, discovering that he
+came from this vicinity, had seen the gravestones, and could repeat the
+inscriptions, was willing to give up half a day's work to guide him on
+his way.
+
+It is well that such spots should be venerated as sacred shrines among
+the descendants of the Covenanters, to whom Scotland owes what she is,
+and all she may become.
+
+It was here that Scott first became acquainted with Robert Paterson, the
+original of Old Mortality.
+
+Leaving Stonehaven we passed, on a rising ground a little to our left,
+the house of the celebrated Barclay of Ury. It remains very much in its
+ancient condition, surrounded by a low stone wall, like the old
+fortified houses of Scotland.
+
+Barclay of Ury was an old and distinguished soldier, who had fought
+under Gustavus Adolphus in Germany, and one of the earliest converts to
+the principles of the Friends in Scotland. As a Quaker, he became an
+object of hatred and abuse at the hands of the magistracy and populace;
+but he endured all these insults and injuries with the greatest patience
+and nobleness of soul.
+
+"I find more satisfaction," he said, "as well as honor, in being thus
+insulted for my religious principles, than when, a few years ago, it was
+usual for the magistrates, as I passed the city of Aberdeen, to meet me
+on the road and conduct me to public entertainment in their hall, and
+then escort me out again, to gain my favor."
+
+Whittier has celebrated this incident in his beautiful ballad, called
+"Barclay of Ury." The son of this Barclay was the author of that Apology
+which bears his name, and is still a standard work among the Friends.
+The estate is still possessed by his descendants.
+
+A little farther along towards Aberdeen, Mr. S. seemed to amuse himself
+very much with the idea, that we were coming near to Dugald Dalgetty's
+estate of Drumthwacket, an historical remembrance which I take to be
+somewhat apocryphal.
+
+It was towards the close of the afternoon that we found ourselves
+crossing the Dee, in view of Aberdeen. My spirits were wonderfully
+elated: the grand sea scenery and fine bracing air; the noble, distant
+view of the city, rising with its harbor and shipping, all filled me
+with delight. Besides which the Dee had been enchanted for me from my
+childhood, by a wild old ballad which I used to hear sung to a Scottish
+tune, equally wild and pathetic. I repeated it to C----, and will now to
+you.
+
+  "The moon had climbed the highest hill
+    That rises o'er the banks of Dee,
+  And from her farthest summit poured
+    Her silver light o'er tower and tree,--
+
+  When Mary laid her down to sleep,
+    Her thoughts on Sandy far at sea,
+  And soft and low a voice she heard,
+    Saying, 'Mary, weep no more for me.'
+
+  She from her pillow gently raised
+    Her head, to see who there might be;
+  She saw young Sandy shivering stand,
+    With pallid cheek and hollow ee.
+
+  'O Mary dear, cold is my clay;
+    It lies beneath the stormy sea;
+  The storm, is past, and I'm at rest;
+    So, Mary, weep no more for me.'
+
+  Loud crew the cock; the vision fled;
+    No more young Sandy could she see;
+  But soft a parting whisper said,
+    'Sweet Mary, weep no more for me.'"
+
+I never saw these lines in print any where; I never knew who wrote them;
+I had only heard them sung at the fireside when a child, to a tune as
+dreamy and sweet as themselves; but they rose upon me like an
+enchantment, as I crossed the Dee, in view of that very German Ocean,
+famed for its storms and shipwrecks.
+
+In this propitious state, disposed to be pleased with every thing, our
+hearts responded warmly to the greetings of the many friends who were
+waiting for us at the station house.
+
+The lord provost received us into his carriage, and as we drove along,
+pointed out to us the various objects of interest in the beautiful town.
+Among other things, a fine old bridge across the Dee attracted our
+particular attention.
+
+We were conducted to the house of Mr. Cruikshank, a Friend, and found
+waiting for us there the thoughtful hospitality which we had ever
+experienced in all our stopping-places. A snug little quiet supper was
+laid out upon the table, of which we partook in haste, as we were
+informed that the assembly at the hall were waiting to receive us.
+
+There arrived, we found the hall crowded, and with difficulty made our
+way to the platform. Whether owing to the stimulating effect of the air
+from the ocean, or to the comparatively social aspect of the scene, or
+perhaps to both, certain it is, that we enjoyed the meeting with great
+zest. I was surrounded on the stage with blooming young ladies, one of
+whom put into my hands a beautiful bouquet, some flowers of which I have
+now dried in my album. The refreshment tables were adorned with some
+exquisite wax flowers, the work, as I was afterwards told, of a young
+lady in the place. One of the designs especially interested me. It was a
+group of water lilies resting on a mirror, which gave them the
+appearance of growing in the water.
+
+We had some very animated speaking, in which the speakers contrived to
+blend enthusiastic admiration and love for America with detestation of
+slavery.
+
+All the afternoon the beautiful coast had reminded me of the State of
+Maine, and the genius of the meeting confirmed the association. They
+seemed to me to be a plain, genial, strong, warm-hearted people, like
+those of Maine.
+
+One of the speakers concluded his address by saying that John Bull and
+Brother Jonathan, with Paddy and Sandy Scott, should they clasp hands
+together, might stand against the world; which sentiment was responded
+to with thunders of applause.
+
+It is because America, like Scotland, has stood for right against
+oppression, that the Scotch love and sympathize with her. For this
+reason do they feel it as something taken from the strength of a common
+cause, when America sides with injustice and oppression. The children of
+the Covenant and the children of the Puritans are of one blood.
+
+They presented an offering in a beautiful embroidered purse, and after
+much shaking of hands we went home, and sat down to the supper table,
+for a little more chat, before going to bed. The next morning,--as we
+had only till noon to stay in Aberdeen,--our friends, the lord provost,
+and Mr. Leslie, the architect, came immediately after breakfast to show
+us the place.
+
+The town of Aberdeen is a very fine one, and owes much of its beauty to
+the light-colored granite of which most of the houses are built. It has
+broad, clean, beautiful streets, and many very curious and interesting
+public buildings. The town exhibits that union of the hoary past with
+the bustling present which is characteristic of the old world.
+
+It has two parts, the old and the new, as unlike as L'Allegro and
+Penseroso--the new, clean, and modern; the old, mossy and dreamy. The
+old town is called Alton, and has venerable houses, standing, many of
+them, in ancient gardens. And here rises the peculiar, old, gray
+cathedral. These Scotch cathedrals have a sort of stubbed appearance,
+and look like the expression in stone of defiant, invincible resolution.
+This is of primitive granite, in the same heavy, massive style as the
+cathedral of Glasgow, but having strong individualities of its own.
+
+Whoever located the ecclesiastical buildings of England and Scotland
+certainly had an exquisite perception of natural scenery; for one
+notices that they are almost invariably placed on just that point of the
+landscape, where the poet or the artist would say they should be. These
+cathedrals, though all having a general similarity of design, seem, each
+one, to have its own personality, as much as a human being. Looking at
+nineteen of them is no compensation to you for omitting the twentieth;
+there will certainly be something new and peculiar in that.
+
+This Aberdeen Cathedral, or Cathedral of St. Machar, is situated on the
+banks of the River Don; one of those beautiful amber-brown rivers that
+color the stones and pebbles at the bottom with a yellow light, such as
+one sees in ancient pictures. Old trees wave and rustle around, and the
+building itself, though a part of it has fallen into ruins, has, in many
+parts, a wonderful clearness and sharpness of outline. I cannot describe
+these things to you; architectural terms convey no picture to the mind.
+I can only tell you of the character and impression it bears--a
+character of strong, unflinching endurance, appropriately reminding one
+of the Scotch people, whom Walter Scott compares to the native sycamore
+of their hills, "which scorns to be biased in its mode of growth, even
+by the influence of the prevailing wind, but shooting its branches with
+equal boldness in every direction, shows no weather side to the storm,
+and may be broken, but can never be bended."
+
+One reason for the sharpness and distinctness of the architectural
+preservation of this cathedral is probably that closeness of texture for
+which Aberdeen granite is remarkable. It bears marks of the hand of
+violence in many parts. The images of saints and bishops, which lie on
+their backs with clasped hands, seem to have been wofully maltreated and
+despoiled, in the fervor of those days, when people fondly thought that
+breaking down carved work was getting rid of superstition. These granite
+saints and bishops, with their mutilated fingers and broken noses, seem
+to be bearing a silent, melancholy witness against that disposition in
+human nature, which, instead of making clean the cup and platter, breaks
+them altogether.
+
+The roof of the cathedral is a splendid specimen of carving in black
+oak, wrought in panels, with leaves and inscriptions in ancient text.
+The church could once boast in other parts (so says an architectural
+work) a profusion of carved woodwork of the same character, which must
+have greatly relieved the massive plainness of the interior.
+
+In 1649, the parish minister attacked the "High Altar," a piece of the
+most splendid workmanship of any thing of the kind in Europe, and which
+had to that time remained inviolate; perhaps from the insensible
+influence of its beauty. It is said that the carpenter employed for the
+purpose was so struck with the noble workmanship, that he refused to
+touch it till the minister took the hatchet from his hand and gave the
+first blow.
+
+These men did not consider that "the leprosy lies deep within," and
+that when human nature is denied beautiful idols, it will go after ugly
+ones. There has been just as unspiritual a resting in coarse, bare, and
+disagreeable adjuncts of religion, as in beautiful and agreeable ones;
+men have worshipped Juggernaut as pertinaciously as they have Venus or
+the Graces; so that the good divine might better have aimed a sermon at
+the heart than an axe at the altar.
+
+We lingered a long time around here, and could scarcely tear ourselves
+away. We paced up and down under the old trees, looking off on the
+waters of the Don, listening to the waving branches, and falling into a
+dreamy state of mind, thought what if it were six hundred years ago! and
+we were pious simple hearted old abbots! What a fine place that would be
+to walk up and down at eventide or on a Sabbath morning, reciting the
+penitential psalms, or reading St. Augustine!
+
+I cannot get over the feeling, that the souls of the dead do somehow
+connect themselves with the places of their former habitation, and that
+the hush and thrill of spirit, which we feel in them, may be owing to
+the overshadowing presence of the invisible. St. Paul says, "We are
+compassed about with a great cloud of witnesses." How can they be
+witnesses, if they cannot see and be cognizant?
+
+We left the place by a winding walk, to go to the famous bridge of
+Balgounie, another dream-land affair, not far from here. It is a single
+gray stone arch, apparently cut from solid rock, that spans the brown
+rippling waters, where wild, overhanging banks, shadowy trees, and
+dipping wild flowers, all conspire to make a romantic picture. This
+bridge, with the river and scenery, were poetic items that went, with
+other things, to form the sensitive mind of Byron, who lived here in his
+earlier days. He has some lines about it:--
+
+  "As 'auld lang syne' brings Scotland, one and all,
+    Scotch, plaids, Scotch snoods, the blue hills and clear streams,
+  The Dee, the Don, Balgounie's brig's black wall,
+    All my boy-feelings, all my gentler dreams,
+  Of what I then dreamt clothed in their own pall,
+    Like Banquo's offspring,--floating past me seems
+  My childhood, in this childishness of mind:
+    I care not--'tis a glimpse of 'auld lang syne.'"
+
+This old bridge has a prophecy connected with it, which was repeated to
+us, and you shall have it literatim:--
+
+  "Brig of Balgounie, black's your wa',
+  Wi' a wife's ae son, and a mare's a foal,
+  Doon ye shall fa'!"
+
+The bridge was built in the time of Robert Bruce, by one Bishop Cheyne,
+of whom all that I know is, that he evidently had a good eye for the
+picturesque.
+
+After this we went to visit King's College. The tower of it is
+surmounted by a massive stone crown, which forms a very singular feature
+in every view of Aberdeen, and is said to be a perfectly unique specimen
+of architecture. This King's College is very old, being founded also by
+a bishop, as far back as the fifteenth century. It has an exquisitely
+carved roof, and carved oaken seats. We went through the library, the
+hall, and the museum. Certainly, the old, dark architecture of these
+universities must tend to form a different style of mind from our plain
+matter-of-fact college buildings.
+
+Here in Aberdeen is the veritable Marischal College, so often quoted by
+Dugald Dalgetty. We had not time to go and see it, but I can assure you
+on the authority of the guide book, that it is a magnificent specimen of
+architecture.
+
+After this, that we might not neglect the present in our zeal for the
+past, we went to the marble yards, where they work the Aberdeen granite.
+This granite, of which we have many specimens in America, is of two
+kinds, one being gray, the other of a reddish hue. It seems to differ
+from other granite in the fineness and closeness of its grain, which
+enables it to receive the most brilliant conceivable polish. I saw some
+superb columns of the red species, which were preparing to go over the
+Baltic to Riga, for an Exchange; and a sepulchral monument, which was
+going to New York. All was busy here, sawing, chipping, polishing; as
+different a scene from the gray old cathedral as could be imagined. The
+granite finds its way, I suppose, to countries which the old,
+unsophisticated abbots never dreamed of.
+
+One of the friends who had accompanied us during the morning tour was
+the celebrated architect, Mr. Leslie, whose conversation gave us all
+much enjoyment. He and Mrs. Leslie gave me a most invaluable parting
+present, to wit, four volumes of engravings, representing the "Baronial
+and Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland," illustrated by Billings. I
+cannot tell you what a mine of pleasure it has been to me. It is a proof
+edition, and the engravings are so vivid, and the drawing so fine, that
+it is nearly as good as reality. It might almost save one the trouble of
+a pilgrimage. I consider the book a kind of national poem; for
+architecture is, in its nature, poetry; especially in these old
+countries, where it weaves into itself a nation's history, and gives
+literally the image and body of the times.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+
+DEAR COUSIN:--
+
+While here in Aberdeen I received a very odd letter, so peculiar and
+curious that I will give you the benefit of it. The author appears to
+be, in his way, a kind of Christopher in his cave, or Timon of Athens. I
+omit some parts which are more expressive than agreeable. It is dated
+
+  "STONEHAVEN, N.B., Kincardineshire, }
+      57° N.W. This 21st April, 1853. }
+
+     "To MRS. HARRIET B. STOWE:--
+
+     "My dear Madam: By the time that this gets your length, the fouk o'
+     Aberdeen will be shewin ye off as a rare animal, just arrived frae
+     America; the wife that writ Uncle Tom's Cabin.
+
+     "I wad like to see ye mysel, but I canna win for want o' siller,
+     and as I thought ye might be writin a buke about the Scotch when ye
+     get hame, I hae just sent ye this bit auld key to Sawney's Cabin.
+
+     "Well then, dinna forget to speer at the Aberdeenians if it be true
+     they ance kidnappet little laddies, and selt them for slaves; that
+     they dang down the Quaker's kirkyard dyke, and houket up dead
+     Quakers out o' their graves; that the young boys at the college
+     printed a buke, and maist naebody wad buy it, and they cam out to
+     Ury, near Stonehaven, and took twelve stots frae Davie Barclay to
+     pay the printer.
+
+     "Dinna forget to speer at ----, if it was true that he flogget
+     three laddies in the beginning o' last year, for the three
+     following crimes: first, for the crime of being born of puir,
+     ignorant parents; second, for the crime of being left in
+     ignorance; and, third, for the crime of having nothing to eat.
+
+     "Dinna be telling when ye gang hame that ye rode on the Aberdeen
+     railway, made by a hundred men, who were all in the Stonehaven
+     prison for drunkenness; nor above five could sign their names.
+
+     "If the Scotch kill ye with ower feeding and making speeches, be
+     sure to send this hame to tell your fouk, that it was Queen
+     Elizabeth who made the first European law to buy and sell human
+     beings like brute beasts. She was England's glory as a Protestant,
+     and Scotland's shame as the murderer of their bonnie Mary. The auld
+     hag skulked away like a coward in the hour of death. Mary, on the
+     other hand, with calmness and dignity, repeated a Latin prayer to
+     the Great Spirit and Author of her being, and calmly resigned
+     herself into the hands of her murderers.
+
+     "In the capital of her ancient kingdom, when ye are in our country,
+     there are eight hundred women, sent to prison every year for the
+     first time. Of fifteen thousand prisoners examined in Scotland in
+     the year 1845, eight thousand could not write at all, and three
+     thousand could not read.
+
+     "At present there are about twenty thousand prisoners in Scotland.
+     In Stonehaven they are fed at about seventeen pounds each,
+     annually. The honest poor, outside the prison upon the parish roll,
+     are fed at the rate of five farthings a day, or two pounds a year.
+     The employment of the prisoners is grinding the wind, we ca' it;
+     turning the crank, in plain English. The latest improvement is the
+     streekin board; it's a whig improvement o' Lord Jonnie Russell's.
+
+     "I ken brawly ye are a curious wife, and would like to ken a' about
+     the Scotch bodies. Weel, they are a gay, ignorant, proud, drunken
+     pack; they manage to pay ilka year for whuskey one million three
+     hundred and forty-eight thousand pounds.
+
+     "But then their piety, their piety; weel, let's luke at it; hing it
+     up by the nape o' the neck, and turn it round atween our finger and
+     thumb on all sides.
+
+     "Is there one school in all Scotland where the helpless, homeless
+     poor are fed and clothed at the public expense? None.
+
+     "Is there a hame in all Scotland for the cleanly but sick servant
+     maid to go till, until health be restored? Alas! there is none.
+
+     "Is there a school in all Scotland for training ladies in the
+     higher branches of learning? None. What then is there for the women
+     of Scotland?
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     "A weel, be sure and try a cupful of Scottish Kail Broase. See, and
+     get a sup Scotch _lang milk_.
+
+     "Hand this bit line yout to the Rev. Mr. ----. Tell him to store
+     out fats nae true.
+
+     "God bless you, and set you safe hame, is the prayer of the old
+     Scotch Bachelor."
+
+I think you will agree with me, that the old testifying spirit does not
+seem to have died out in Scotland, and that the backslidings and
+abominations of the land do not want for able exponents.
+
+As the indictment runs back to the time of Charles II., to the
+persecutions of the Quakers in the days of Barclay of Ury, and brings up
+again the most modern offences, one cannot but feel that there are the
+most savory indications in it of Scotch thoroughness.
+
+Some of the questions which he wishes to have me "_speer_" at Aberdeen,
+I fear, alas! would bring but an indifferent answer even in Boston,
+which gives a high school only to boys, and allows none to girls. On one
+point, it seems to me, my friend might speer himself to advantage, and
+that is the very commendable efforts which are being made now in
+Edinburgh and Aberdeen both, in the way of educating the children of the
+poor.
+
+As this is one of the subjects which are particularly on my mind, and as
+all information which we can get upon this subject is peculiarly
+valuable to us in view of commencing efforts in America, I will abridge
+for you an account of the industrial schools of Aberdeen, published by
+the society for improving the condition of the laboring classes, in
+their paper called the Laborer's Friend.
+
+In June, 1841, it was ascertained that in Aberdeen there were two
+hundred and eighty children, under fourteen years of age, who maintained
+themselves professedly by begging, but partly by theft. The first effort
+to better the moral condition of these children brought with it the
+discovery which our philanthropists made in New York, that in order to
+do good to a starving child, we must begin by feeding him; that we must
+gain his confidence by showing him a benevolence which he can
+understand, and thus proceed gradually to the reformation of his
+spiritual nature.
+
+In 1841, therefore, some benevolent individuals in Aberdeen hired rooms
+and a teacher, and gave out notice among these poor children that they
+could there be supplied with food, work, and instruction. The general
+arrangement of the day was four hours of lessons, five hours of work,
+and three substantial meals. These meals were employed as the incitement
+to the lessons and the work, since it was made an indispensable
+condition to each meal that the child should have been present at the
+work or lessons which preceded it. This arrangement worked admirably; so
+that they reported that the attendance was more regular than at ordinary
+schools.
+
+The whole produce of the work of the children goes towards defraying the
+expense of the establishment, thus effecting several important
+purposes,--reducing the expense of the school, and teaching the
+children, practically, the value of their industry,--in procuring for
+them food and instruction, and fostering in them, from the first, a
+sound principle of self-dependence; inasmuch as they know, from the
+moment of their entering school, that they give, or pay, in return for
+their food and education, all the work they are capable of performing.
+
+The institution did not profess to clothe the children; but by the
+kindness of benevolent persons who take an interest in the school, there
+is generally a stock of old clothes on hand, from which the most
+destitute are supplied.
+
+The following is the daily routine of the school: The scholars assemble
+every morning at seven in summer, and eight in winter. The school is
+opened by reading the Scriptures, praise, and prayer, and religious
+instruction suited to their years; after which there is a lesson in
+geography, or the more ordinary facts of natural history, taught by
+means of maps and prints distributed along the walls of the school room;
+two days in the week they have a singing lesson; at nine they breakfast
+on porridge and milk, and have half an hour of play; at ten they again
+assemble in school, and are employed at work till two. At two o'clock
+they dine; usually on broth, with coarse wheaten bread, but occasionally
+on potatoes and ox-head soup, &c. The diet is very plain, but nutritious
+and abundant, and appears to suit the tastes of the pupils completely.
+It is a pleasing sight to see them assembled, with their youthful
+appetites sharpened by four hours' work, joining, at least with outward
+decorum, in asking God's blessing on the food he has provided for them,
+and most promptly availing themselves of the signal given to commence
+their dinner.
+
+From dinner till three, the time is spent in exercise or recreation,
+occasionally working in the garden; from three to four, they work either
+in the garden or in the work room; from four till seven, they are
+instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic. At seven they have
+supper of porridge and milk; and after short religious exercises, are
+dismissed to their homes at eight.
+
+On Saturday, they do not return to school after dinner; and
+occasionally, as a reward of good behavior, they accompany the teacher
+in a walk to the country or the sea coast.
+
+On Sunday, they assemble at half past eight for devotion; breakfast at
+nine; attend worship in the school room; after which they dine, and
+return home, so as, if possible, to go with their parents to church in
+the afternoon.
+
+At five they again meet, and have _Sabbath school_ instruction in Bible
+and catechism; at seven, supper; and after evening worship are
+dismissed.
+
+From this detail it will be seen that these schools differ from common
+day schools. In day schools, neither food nor employment is
+provided--teaching only is proposed, with a very little moral training.
+
+The principle on which the industrial school proceeds, of giving
+employment along with instruction--especially as that employment is
+designed at the same time, if possible, to teach a trade which may be
+afterwards available--appears of the highest value. It is a practical
+discipline--a moral training, the importance of which cannot be
+over-estimated.
+
+In a common school, too, there can be but little moral training, however
+efficiently the school may be conducted, just because there is little
+opportunity given for the development and display of individual
+character. The whole management of a school requires that the pupils be
+as speedily as possible brought to a uniform outward conduct, and thus
+an appearance of good behavior and propriety is produced within the
+school room, which is too often cast aside and forgotten the moment the
+pupils pass the threshold.
+
+The remark was once made by an experienced teacher, that for the
+purposes of moral training he valued more the time he spent with his
+pupils at their games, than that which was spent in the school room.
+
+The pecuniary value of the work done in these schools is not so great as
+was at first hoped, from the difficulty of procuring employment such as
+children so neglected could perform to advantage. The real value of the
+thing, however, they consider lies in the habits of industry and the
+sense of independence thus imparted.
+
+At the outset the managers of the school regretted extremely their want
+of ability to furnish lodgings to the children. It was thought and said
+that the homes, to which the majority of them were obliged to return
+after school hours, would deprave faster than any instruction could
+reform. Fortunately it was impossible, at the time, to provide lodging
+for the children, and thus an experience was wrought out most valuable
+to all future laborers in this field.
+
+The managers report that after six years' trial, the instances where
+evil results from the children returning home, are very rare; while
+there have been most cheering instances of substantial good being
+carried by the child, from the school, through the whole family. There
+are few parents, especially mothers, so abandoned as not to be touched
+by kindness shown to their offspring. It is the direct road to the
+mother's heart. Show kindness to her child, and she is prepared at once
+to second your efforts on its behalf. She must be debased, indeed, who
+will not listen to her child repeating its text from the Bible, or
+singing a verse of its infant hymn; and by this means the first seeds of
+a new life may be, and have been, planted in the parent's heart.
+
+In cases where parents are so utterly depraved as to make it entirely
+hopeless to reform the child at home, they have found it the best course
+to board them, two or three together, in respectable families; the
+influences of the family state being held to be essential.
+
+The success which attended the boys' school of industry soon led to the
+establishment of one for girls, conducted on the same principles; and it
+is stated that the change wrought among poor, outcast girls, by these
+means, was even more striking and gratifying than among the boys.
+
+After these schools had been some time in operation, it was discovered
+that there were still multitudes of depraved children who could not or
+did not avail themselves of these privileges. It was determined by the
+authorities of the city of Aberdeen, in conformity with the Scripture
+injunction, to go out into the highways and hedges and _compel_ them to
+come in. Under the authority of the police act they proposed to lay hold
+of the whole of the juvenile vagrants, and provide them with food and
+instruction.
+
+Instructions were given to the police, on the 19th of May, 1845, to
+convey every child found begging to the soup kitchen; and, in the course
+of the day, seventy-five were collected, of whom four only could read.
+The scene which ensued is indescribable. Confusion and uproar,
+quarrelling and fighting, language of the most hateful description, and
+the most determined rebellion against every thing like order and
+regularity, gave the gentlemen engaged in the undertaking of taming them
+the hardest day's work they had ever encountered. Still, they so far
+prevailed, that, by evening, their authority was comparatively
+established. When dismissed, the children were invited to return next
+day--informed that, of course, they could do so or not, as they pleased,
+and that, if they did, they should be fed and instructed, but that,
+whether they came or not, begging would not be tolerated. Next day, the
+_greater part_ returned. The managers felt that they had triumphed, and
+that a great field of moral usefulness was now secured to them.
+
+The class who were brought to this school were far below those who
+attend the other two institutions--low as they appeared to be when the
+schools were first opened; and the scenes of filth, disease, and misery,
+exhibited even in the school itself, were such as would speedily have
+driven from the work all merely sentimental philanthropists. Those who
+undertake this work must have sound, strong principle to influence them,
+else they will soon turn from it in disgust.
+
+The school went on prosperously; it soon excited public interest; funds
+flowed in; and, what is most gratifying, the working classes took a
+lively interest in it; and while the wealthier inhabitants of Aberdeen
+contributed during the year about one hundred and fifty pounds for its
+support, the working men collected, and handed over to the committee, no
+less than two hundred and fifty pounds.
+
+Very few children in attendance at the industrial schools have been
+convicted of any offence. The regularity of attendance is owing to the
+children receiving their food in the school; and the school hours being
+from seven in the morning till seven at night, there is little
+opportunity for the commission of crime.
+
+The experience acquired in these schools, and the connection which most
+of the managers had with the criminal courts of the city, led to the
+opening of a fourth institution--the Child's Asylum. Acting from day to
+day as judges, these gentlemen had occasionally cases brought before
+them which gave them extreme pain. Children--nay, infants--were brought
+up on criminal charges: the facts alleged against them were
+incontestably proved; and yet, in a moral sense, they could scarcely be
+held _guilty_, because, in truth, they did not know that they had done
+wrong.
+
+There were, however, great practical difficulties in the way, which
+could only be got over indirectly. The magistrate could adjourn the
+case, directing the child to be cared for in the mean time, and inquiry
+could be made as to his family and relations, as to his character, and
+the prospect of his doing better in future; and he could either be
+restored to his relations, or boarded in the house of refuge, or with a
+family, and placed at one or other of the industrial schools; the charge
+of crime still remaining against him, to be made use of at once if he
+deserted school and returned to evil courses.
+
+The great advantage sought here was to avoid stamping the child for life
+with the character of a convicted felon before he deserved it. Once thus
+brand a child in this country, and it is all but impossible for him
+ever, by future good conduct, to efface the mask. How careful ought the
+law and those who administer it to be, not rashly to impress this
+stigma on the neglected child!
+
+The Child's Asylum was opened on the 4th of December, 1846; and as a
+proof of the efficiency of the industrial schools in checking juvenile
+vagrancy and delinquency, it may be noticed that nearly a week elapsed
+before a child was brought to the asylum. When a child is apprehended by
+the police for begging, or other misdemeanor, he is conveyed to this
+institution, and his case is investigated; for which purpose the
+committee meets daily. If the child be of destitute parents, he is sent
+to one of the industrial schools; if the child of a worthless, but not
+needy, parent, efforts are made to induce the parent to fulfil his duty,
+and exercise his authority in restraining the evil habits of the child,
+by sending him to school, or otherwise removing him out of the way of
+temptation.
+
+From the 4th of December up to the 18th of March, forty-seven cases,
+several of them more than once, had been brought up and carefully
+inquired into. Most of them were disposed of in the manner now stated;
+but a few were either claimed by, or remitted to, the procurator fiscal,
+as proper objects of punishment.
+
+It is premature to say much of an institution which has existed for so
+short a time; but if the principle on which it is founded be as correct
+and sound as it appears, it must prosper and do good. There is, however,
+one great practical difficulty, which can only be removed by legislative
+enactment: there is no power at present to _detain_ the children in the
+Asylum, or to force them to attend the schools to which they have been
+Bent.
+
+Such have been the rise and progress of the four industrial schools in
+Aberdeen, including, as one of them, the Child's Asylum.
+
+All the schools are on the most catholic basis, the only qualification
+for membership being a subscription of a few shillings a year; and the
+doors are open to all who require admission, without distinction of sect
+or party.
+
+The experience, then, of Aberdeen appears to demonstrate the possibility
+of reclaiming even the most abject and depraved of our juvenile
+population at a very moderate expense. The schools have been so long in
+operation, that, if there had been anything erroneous in the principles
+or the management of them, it must ere now have appeared; and if all the
+results have been encouraging, why should not the system be extended and
+established in other places? There is nothing in it which may not easily
+be copied in any town or village of our land where it is required.
+
+I cannot help adding to this account some directions, which a very
+experienced teacher in these schools gives to those who are desirous of
+undertaking this enterprise.
+
+"1. The school rooms and appurtenances ought to be of the plainest and
+most unpretending description. This is perfectly consistent with the
+most scrupulous cleanliness and complete ventilation. In like manner,
+the food should be wholesome, substantial, and abundant, but very
+plain--such as the boys or girls may soon be able to attain, or even
+surpass, by their own exertions after leaving school.
+
+"2. The teachers must ever be of the best description, patient and
+persevering, not easily discouraged, and thoroughly versed in whatever
+branch they may have to teach; and, above all things, they must be
+persons of solid and undoubted piety--for without this qualification,
+all others will, in the end, prove worthless and unavailing.
+
+"Throughout the day, the children must ever be kept in mind that, after
+all, religion is 'the one thing needful;' that the soul is of more value
+than the body.
+
+"3. _The schools must be kept of moderate size_: from their nature this
+is absolutely necessary. It is a task of the greatest difficulty to
+manage, in a satisfactory manner, a large school of children, even of
+the higher classes, with all the advantages of careful home-training and
+superintendence; but with industrial schools it is folly to attempt it.
+
+"From eighty to one hundred scholars is the largest number that ever
+should be gathered into one institution; when they exceed this, _let
+additional schools be opened_; in other words, _increase the number, not
+the size, of the schools_. They should be put down in the localities
+most convenient for the scholars, so that distance may be no bar to
+attendance; and if circumstances permit, a garden, either at the school
+or at no very great distance, will be of great utility.
+
+"4. As soon as practicable, the children should be taught, and kept
+steadily at, some trade or other, by which they may earn their
+subsistence on leaving school; for the longer they have pursued this
+particular occupation at school, the more easily will they be able
+thereby to support themselves afterwards.
+
+"As to commencing schools in new places, the best way of proceeding is
+for a few persons, who are of one mind on the subject, to unite, advance
+from their own purses, or raise among their friends, the small sum
+necessary at the outset, get their teacher, open their school, and
+collect a few scholars, gradually extend the number, and when they have
+made some progress, then tell the public what they have been doing; ask
+them to come and see; and, if they approve, to give their money and
+support. Public meetings and eloquent speeches are excellent things for
+exciting interest and raising funds, but they are of no use in carrying
+on the every-day work of the school.
+
+"Let not the managers expect impossibilities. There will be crime and
+distress in spite of industrial schools; but they may be immensely
+reduced; and let no one be discouraged by the occasional lapse into a
+crime of a promising pupil. Such things must be while sin reigns in the
+heart of man; let them only be thereby stirred up to greater and more
+earnest exertion in their work.
+
+"Let them be most careful as to the parties whom they admit to _act_
+along with them; for unless _all_ the laborers be of one heart and mind,
+divisions must ensue, and the whole work be marred.
+
+"It is most desirable that as many persons as possible of wealth and
+influence should lend their aid in supporting these institutions.
+Patrons and subscribers should be of all ranks and denominations; but
+they must beware of interfering with the actual daily working of the
+school, which ought to be left to the unfettered energies of those who,
+by their zeal, their activity, their sterling principle, and their
+successful administration, have proved themselves every way competent to
+the task they have undertaken.
+
+"If the managers wish to carry out the good effect of their schools to
+the utmost, then they will not confine their labor to the scholars;
+_they will, through them, get access to the parents_. The good which the
+ladies of the Aberdeen Female School have already thus accomplished is
+not to be told; but let none try this work who do not experimentally
+know the value of the immortal soul."
+
+Industrial schools seem to open a bright prospect to the hitherto
+neglected outcasts of our cities; for them a new era seems to be
+commencing: they are no longer to be restrained and kept in order by the
+iron bars of the prison house, and taught morality by the scourge of the
+executioner. They are now to be treated as reasonable and immortal
+beings; and may He who is the God of the poor as well as the rich give
+his effectual blessing with them, wherever they may be established, so
+that they may be a source of joy and rejoicing to all ranks of society.
+
+Such is the result of the "speerings" recommended by my worthy
+correspondent. I have given them much at length, because they are useful
+to us in the much needed reforms commencing in our cities.
+
+As to the appalling statements about intemperance, I grieve to say that
+they are confirmed by much which must meet the eye even of the passing
+stranger. I have said before how often the natural features of this
+country reminded me of the State of Maine. Would that the beneficent law
+which has removed, to so great an extent, pauperism and crime from that
+noble state might also be given to Scotland.
+
+I suppose that the efforts for the benefit of the poorer classes in this
+city might be paralleled by efforts of a similar nature in the other
+cities of Scotland, particularly in Edinburgh, where great exertions
+have been making; but I happened to have a more full account of these in
+Aberdeen, and so give them as specimens of the whole. I must say,
+however, that in no city which I visited in Scotland did I see such
+neatness, order, and thoroughness, as in Aberdeen; and in none did there
+appear to be more gratifying evidences of prosperity and comfort among
+that class which one sees along the streets and thoroughfares.
+
+About two o'clock we started from Aberdeen among crowds of friends, to
+whom we bade farewell with real regret.
+
+Our way at first lay over the course of yesterday, along that beautiful
+sea coast--beautiful to the eye, but perilous to the navigator. They
+told us that the winds and waves raged here with an awful power. Not
+long before we came, the Duke of Sutherland, an iron steamer, was
+wrecked upon this shore. In one respect the coast of Maine has decidedly
+the advantage over this, and, indeed, of every other sea coast which I
+have ever visited; and that is in the richness of the wooding, which
+veils its picturesque points and capes in luxuriant foldings of verdure.
+
+At Stonehaven station, where we stopped a few minutes, there was quite a
+gathering of the inhabitants to exchange greetings, and afterwards at
+successive stations along the road, many a kindly face and voice made
+our journey a pleasant one.
+
+When we got into old Dundee it seemed all alive with welcome. We went in
+the carriage with the lord provost, Mr. Thoms, to his residence, where a
+party had been waiting dinner for us some time.
+
+The meeting in the evening was in a large church, densely crowded, and
+conducted much as the others had been. When they came to sing the
+closing hymn, I hoped they would sing Dundee; but they did not, and I
+fear in Scotland, as elsewhere, the characteristic national melodies are
+giving way before more modern ones.
+
+On the stage we were surrounded by many very pleasant people, with whom,
+between the services, we talked without knowing their names. The
+venerable Dr. Dick, the author of the Christian Philosopher and the
+Philosophy of the Future State, was there. Gilfillan was also present,
+and spoke. Together with their contribution to the Scottish offering,
+they presented me with quite a collection of the works of different
+writers of Dundee, beautifully bound.
+
+We came away before the exercises of the evening were finished.
+
+The next morning we had quite a large breakfast party, mostly ministers
+and their wives. Good old Dr. Dick was there, and I had an introduction
+to him, and had pleasure in speaking to him of the interest with which
+his works have been read in America. Of this fact I was told that he had
+received more substantial assurance in a comfortable sum of money
+subscribed and remitted to him by his American readers. If this be so it
+is a most commendable movement.
+
+What a pity it was, during Scott's financial embarrassments, that every
+man, woman, and child in America, who had received pleasure from his
+writings, had not subscribed something towards an offering justly due to
+him!
+
+Our host, Mr. Thoms, was one of the first to republish in Scotland
+Professor Stuart's Letters to Dr. Channing, with a preface of his own.
+He showed me Professor Stuart's letter in reply, and seemed rather
+amused that the professor directed it to the Rev. James Thom, supposing,
+of course, that so much theological zeal could not inhere in a layman.
+He also showed us many autograph letters of their former pastor, Mr.
+Cheyne, whose interesting memoirs have excited a good deal of attention
+in some circles in America.
+
+After breakfast the ladies of the Dundee Antislavery Society called, and
+then the lord provost took us in his carriage to see the city. Dundee is
+the third town of Scotland in population, and a place of great
+antiquity. Its population in 1851 was seventy-eight thousand eight
+hundred and twenty-nine, and the manufactures consist principally of
+yarns, linen, with canvas and cotton bagging, great quantities of which
+are exported to France and North and South America. There are about
+sixty spinning mills and factories in the town and neighborhood, besides
+several iron founderies and manufactories of steam engines and
+machinery.
+
+Dundee has always been a stronghold of liberty and the reformed
+religion. It is said that in the grammar school of this town William
+Wallace was educated; and here an illustrious confraternity of noblemen
+and gentry was formed, who joined to resist the tyranny of England.
+
+Here Wishart preached in the beginning of the reformation, preparatory
+to his martyrdom. Here flourished some rude historical writers, who
+devoted their talents to the downfall of Popery. Singularly enough, they
+accomplished this in part by dramatic representations, in which the
+vices and absurdities of the Papal establishment were ridiculed before
+the people. Among others, one James Wedderburn and his brother, John,
+vicar of Dundee, are mentioned as having excelled in this kind of
+composition. The same authors composed books of song, denominated "Gude
+and Godly Ballads," wherein the frauds and deceits of Popery were fully
+pointed out. A third brother of the family, being a musical genius, it
+is said, "turned the times and tenor of many profane songs into godly
+songs and hymns, whereby he stirred up the affections of many," which
+tunes were called the Psalms of Dundee. Here, perhaps, was the origin of
+"Dundee's wild warbling measures."
+
+The conjoint forces of tragedy, comedy, ballads, and music, thus brought
+to bear on the popular mind, was very great.
+
+Dundee has been a great sufferer during the various civil commotions in
+Scotland. In the time of Charles I. it stood out for the solemn league
+and covenant, for which crime the Earl of Montrose was sent against it,
+who took and burned it. It is said that he called Dundee a most
+seditious town, the securest haunt and receptacle of rebels, and a place
+that had contributed as much as any other to the rebellion. Yet
+afterwards, when Montrose was led a captive through Dundee, the
+historian observes, "It is remarkable of the town of Dundee, in which he
+lodged one night, that though it had suffered more by his army than any
+town else within the kingdom, yet were they, amongst all the rest, so
+far from exulting over him, that the whole town testified a great deal
+of sorrow for his woful condition; and there was he likewise furnished
+with clothes suitable to his birth and person."
+
+This town of Dundee was stormed by Monk and the forces of Parliament
+during the time of the commonwealth, because they had sheltered the
+fugitive Charles II., and granted him money. When taken by Monk, he
+committed a great many barbarities.
+
+It has also been once visited by the plague, and once with a seven
+years' dearth or famine.
+
+Most of these particulars I found in a History of Dundee, which formed
+one of the books presented to me.
+
+The town is beautifully situated on the Firth of Tay, which here spreads
+its waters, and the quantity of shipping indicates commercial
+prosperity.
+
+I was shown no abbeys or cathedrals, either because none ever existed,
+or because they were destroyed when the town was fired.
+
+In our rides about the city, the local recollections that our friends
+seemed to recur to with as much interest as any, were those connected
+with the queen's visit to Dundee, in 1844. The spot where she landed has
+been commemorated by the erection of a superb triumphal arch in stone.
+The provost said some of the people were quite astonished at the
+plainness of the queen's dress, having looked for something very
+dazzling and overpowering from a queen. They could scarcely believe
+their eyes, when they saw her riding by in a plain bonnet, and enveloped
+in a simple shepherd's plaid.
+
+The queen is exceedingly popular in Scotland, doubtless in part because
+she heartily appreciated the beauty of the country, and the strong and
+interesting traits of the people. She has a country residence at
+Balmorrow, where she spends a part of every year; and the impression
+seems to prevail among her Scottish subjects, that she never appears to
+feel herself more happy or more at home than in this her Highland
+dwelling. The legend is, that here she delights to throw off the
+restraints of royalty; to go about plainly dressed, like a private
+individual; to visit in the cottages of the poor; to interest herself in
+the instruction of the children; and to initiate the future heir of
+England into that practical love of the people which is the best
+qualification for a ruler.
+
+I repeat to you the things which I hear floating of the public
+characters of England, and you can attach what degree of credence you
+may think proper. As a general rule in this censorious world, I think it
+safe to suppose that the good which is commonly reported of public
+characters, if not true in the letter of its details, is at least so in
+its general spirit. The stories which are told about distinguished
+people generally run in a channel coincident with the facts of their
+character. On the other hand, with regard to evil reports, it is safe
+always to allow something for the natural propensity to detraction and
+slander, which is one of the most undoubted facts of human nature in all
+lands.
+
+We left Dundee at two o'clock, by cars, for Edinburgh. In the evening we
+attended another _soirée_ of the working men of Edinburgh. As it was
+similar in all respects to the one at Glasgow, I will not dwell upon it,
+further than to say how gratifying to me, in every respect, are
+occasions in which working men, as a class, stand out before the public.
+_They_ are to form, more and more, a new power in society, greater than
+the old power of helmet and sword, and I rejoice in every indication
+that they are learning to understand themselves.
+
+We have received letters from the working men, both in Dundee and
+Glasgow, desiring our return to attend _soirées_ in those cities.
+Nothing could give us greater pleasure, had we time and strength. No
+class of men are more vitally interested in the conflict of freedom
+against slavery than working men. The principle upon which slavery is
+founded touches every interest of theirs. If it be right that one half
+of the community should deprive the other half of education, of all
+opportunities to rise in the world, of all property rights and all
+family ties, merely to make them more convenient tools for their profit
+and luxury, then every injustice and extortion, which oppresses the
+laboring man in any country, can be equally defended.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+
+DEAR AUNT E.:--
+
+You wanted us to write about our visit to Melrose; so here you have it.
+
+On Tuesday morning Mr. S. and C---- had agreed to go back to Glasgow for
+the purpose of speaking at a temperance meeting, and as we were
+restricted for time, we were obliged to make the visit to Melrose in
+their absence, much to the regret of us all. G---- thought we would make
+a little quiet run out in the cars by ourselves, while Mr. S. and
+C---- were gone back to Glasgow.
+
+It was one of those soft, showery, April days, misty and mystical, now
+weeping and now shining, that we found ourselves whirled by the cars
+through this enchanted ground of Scotland. Almost every name we heard
+spoken along the railroad, every stream we passed, every point we looked
+at, recalled some line of Walter Scott's poetry, or some event of
+history. The thought that he was gone forever, whose genius had given
+the charm to all, seemed to settle itself down like a melancholy mist.
+To how little purpose seemed the few, short years of his life, compared
+with the capabilities of such a soul! Brilliant as his success had been,
+how was it passed like a dream! It seemed sad to think that he had not
+only passed away himself, but that almost the whole family and friendly
+circle had passed with him--not a son left to bear his name!
+
+Here we were in the region of the Ettrick, the Yarrow, and the Tweed. I
+opened the Lay of the Last Minstrel, and, as if by instinct, the first
+lines my eye fell upon were these:--
+
+  "Call it not vain: they do not err
+    Who say, that when the poet dies,
+  Mute nature mourns her worshipper,
+    And celebrates his obsequies;
+  Who say, tall cliff and cavern lone
+  For the departed bard make moan;
+  That mountains weep in crystal rill;
+  That flowers in tears of balm distil;
+  Through his loved groves that breezes sigh,
+  And oaks, in deeper groan, reply;
+  And rivers teach their rushing wave
+  To murmur dirges round his grave."
+
+"Melrose!" said the loud voice of the conductor; and starting, I looked
+up and saw quite a flourishing village, in the midst of which rose the
+old, gray, mouldering walls of the abbey. Now, this was somewhat of a
+disappointment to me. I had been somehow expecting to find the building
+standing alone in the middle of a great heath, far from all abodes of
+men, and with no companions more hilarious than the owls. However, it
+was no use complaining; the fact was, there was a village, and what was
+more, a hotel, and to this hotel we were to go to get a guide for the
+places we were to visit; for it was understood that we were to "_do_"
+Melrose, Dryburgh, and Abbotsford, all in one day. There was no time for
+sentiment; it was a business affair, that must be looked in the face
+promptly, if we meant to get through. Ejaculations and quotations of
+poetry could, of course, be thrown in, as William, of Deloraine pattered
+his prayers, while riding.
+
+We all alighted at a very comfortable hotel, and were ushered into as
+snug a little parlor as one's heart could desire.
+
+[Illustration: East Window of Melrose Abbey.]
+
+The next thing was to hire a coachman to take us, in the rain,--for the
+mist had now swelled into a rain,--through the whole appropriate round.
+I stood by and heard names which I had never heard before, except in
+song, brought into view in their commercial relations; so much for
+Abbotsford; and so much for Dryburgh; and then, if we would like to
+throw in Thomas the Rhymer's Tower, why, that would be something extra.
+
+"Thomas the Rhymer?" said one of the party, not exactly posted up. "Was
+he any thing remarkable? Well, is it worth while to go to his tower? It
+will cost something extra, and take more time."
+
+Weighed in such a sacrilegious balance, Thomas was found wanting, of
+course: the idea of driving three or four miles farther to see an old
+tower, supposed to have belonged to a man who is supposed to have
+existed and to have been carried off by a supposititious Queen of the
+Fairies into Elfland, was too absurd for reasonable people; in fact, I
+made believe myself that I did not care much about it, particularly as
+the landlady remarked, that if we did not get home by five o'clock "the
+chops might be spoiled."
+
+As we all were packed into a tight coach, the rain still pouring, I
+began to wish mute Nature would not be quite so energetic in distilling
+her tears. A few sprinkling showers, or a graceful wreath of mist, might
+be all very well; but a steady, driving rain, that obliged us to shut up
+the carriage windows, and coated them with mist so that we could not
+look out, why, I say it is enough to put out the fire of sentiment in
+any heart. We might as well have been rolled up in a bundle and carried
+through the country, for all the seeing it was possible to do under such
+circumstances. It, therefore, should be stated, that we did keep bravely
+up in our poetic zeal, which kindly Mrs. W. also reënforced, by
+distributing certain very delicate sandwiches to support the outer man.
+
+At length, the coach stopped at the entrance of Abbotsford grounds,
+where there was a cottage, out of which, due notice being given, came a
+trim, little old woman in a black gown, with pattens on; she put up her
+umbrella, and we all put up ours; the rain poured harder than ever as we
+went dripping up the gravel walk, looking much, I inly fancied, like a
+set of discomforted fowls fleeing to covert. We entered the great court
+yard, surrounded with a high wall, into which were built sundry
+fragments of curious architecture that happened to please the poet's
+fancy.
+
+I had at the moment, spite of the rain, very vividly in my mind
+Washington Irving's graceful account of his visit to Abbotsford while
+this house was yet building, and the picture which he has given of
+Walter Scott sitting before his door, humorously descanting on various
+fragments of sculpture, which lay scattered about, and which he intended
+to immortalize by incorporating into his new dwelling.
+
+Viewed as a mere speculation, or, for aught I know, as an architectural
+effort, this building may, perhaps, be counted as a mistake and a
+failure. I observe, that it is quite customary to speak of it, among
+some, as a pity that he ever undertook it. But viewed as a development
+of his inner life, as a working out in wood and stone of favorite
+fancies and cherished ideas, the building has to me a deep interest. The
+gentle-hearted poet delighted himself in it; this house was his stone
+and wood poem, as irregular, perhaps, and as contrary to any established
+rule, as his Lay of the Last Minstrel, but still wild and poetic. The
+building has this interest, that it was throughout his own conception,
+thought, and choice; that he expressed himself in every stone that was
+laid, and made it a kind of shrine, into which he wove all his treasures
+of antiquity, and where he imitated, from the beautiful, old, mouldering
+ruins of Scotland, the parts that had touched him most deeply.
+
+The walls of one room were of carved oak from the Dunfermline Abbey; the
+ceiling of another imitated from Roslin Castle; here a fireplace was
+wrought in the image of a favorite niche in Melrose; and there the
+ancient pulpit of Erskine was wrought into a wall. To him, doubtless,
+every object in the house was suggestive of poetic fancies; every
+carving and bit of tracery had its history, and was as truly an
+expression of something in the poet's mind as a verse of his poetry.
+
+A building wrought out in this way, and growing up like a bank of coral,
+may very possibly violate all the proprieties of criticism; it may
+possibly, too, violate one's ideas of mere housewifery utility; but by
+none of these rules ought such a building to be judged. We should look
+at it rather as the poet's endeavor to render outward and visible the
+dream land of his thoughts, and to create for himself a refuge from the
+cold, dull realities of life, in an architectural romance.
+
+These were thoughts which gave interest to the scene as we passed
+through the porchway, adorned with petrified stags' horns, into the long
+entrance hall of the mansion. This porch was copied from one in
+Linlithgow palace. One side of this hall was lighted by windows of
+painted glass. The floor was of black and white marble from the
+Hebrides. Round the whole cornice there was a line of coats armorial,
+richly blazoned, and the following inscription in old German text:
+
+"These be the coat armories of the clanns and chief men of name wha
+keepit the marchys of Scotland in the old tyme for the kynge. Trewe men
+war they in their tyme, and in their defence God them defendyt."
+
+There were the names of the Douglases, the Elliots, the Scotts, the
+Armstrongs, and others. I looked at this arrangement with interest,
+because I knew that Scott must have taken a particular delight in it.
+
+The fireplace, designed from a niche in Melrose Abbey, also in this
+room, and a choice bit of sculpture it is. In it was an old grate, which
+had its history also, and opposite to it the boards from the pulpit of
+Erskine were wrought into a kind of side table, or something which
+served that purpose. The spaces between the windows were decorated with
+pieces of armor, crossed swords, and stags' horns, each one of which
+doubtless had its history. On each side of the door, at the bottom of
+the hall, was a Gothic shrine, or niche, in both of which stood a figure
+in complete armor.
+
+Then we went into the drawing room; a lofty saloon, the woodwork of
+which is entirely of cedar, richly wrought; probably another of the
+author's favorite poetic fancies. It is adorned with a set of splendid
+antique ebony furniture; cabinet, chairs, and piano--the gift of George
+IV. to the poet.
+
+We went into his library; a magnificent room, on which, I suppose, the
+poet's fancy had expended itself more than any other. The roof is of
+carved oak, after models from Roslin Castle. Here, in a niche, is a
+marble bust of Scott, as we understood a present from Chantrey to the
+poet; it was one of the best and most animated representations of him I
+ever saw, and very much superior to the one under the monument in
+Edinburgh. On expressing my idea to this effect, I found I had struck
+upon a favorite notion of the good woman who showed us the
+establishment; she seemed to be an ancient servant of the house, and
+appeared to entertain a regard for the old laird scarcely less than
+idolatry. One reason why this statue is superior is, that it represents
+his noble forehead, which the Edinburgh one suffers to be concealed by
+falling hair: to cover _such_ a forehead seems scarcely less than a
+libel.
+
+The whole air of this room is fanciful and picturesque in the extreme.
+The walls are entirely filled with the bookcases, there being about
+twenty thousand volumes. A small room opens from the library, which was
+Scott's own private study. His writing table stood in the centre, with
+his inkstand on it, and before it a large, plain, black leather arm
+chair.
+
+In a glass case, I think in this room, was exhibited the suit of clothes
+he last wore; a blue coat with large metal buttons, plaid trousers, and
+broad-brimmed hat. Around the sides of this room there was a gallery of
+light tracery work; a flight of stairs led up to it, and in one corner
+of it was a door which the woman said led to the poet's bed room. One
+seemed to see in all this arrangement how snug, and cozy, and
+comfortable the poet had thus ensconced himself, to give himself up to
+his beloved labors and his poetic dreams. But there was a cold and
+desolate air of order and adjustment about it which reminds one of the
+precise and chilling arrangements of a room from which has just been
+carried out a corpse; all is silent and deserted.
+
+The house is at present the property of Scott's only surviving daughter,
+whose husband has assumed the name of Scott. We could not learn from our
+informant whether any of the family was in the house. We saw only the
+rooms which are shown to visitors, and a coldness, like that of death,
+seemed to strike to my heart from their chilly solitude.
+
+As we went out of the house we passed another company of tourists coming
+in, to whom we heard our guide commencing the same recitation, "this
+is," and "this is," &c., just as she had done to us. One thing about the
+house and grounds had disappointed me; there was not one view from a
+single window I saw that was worth any thing, in point of beauty; why a
+poet, with an eye for the beautiful, could have located a house in such
+an indifferent spot, on an estate where so many beautiful sites were at
+his command, I could not imagine.
+
+As to the external appearance of Abbotsford, it is as irregular as can
+well be imagined. There are gables, and pinnacles, and spires, and
+balconies, and buttresses any where and every where, without rhyme or
+reason; for wherever the poet wanted a balcony, he had it; or wherever
+he had a fragment of carved stone, or a bit of historic tracery, to put
+in, he made a shrine for it forthwith, without asking leave of any
+rules. This I take to be one of the main advantages of Gothic
+architecture; it is a most catholic and tolerant system, and any kind of
+eccentricity may find refuge beneath its mantle.
+
+Here and there, all over the house, are stones carved with armorial
+bearings and pious inscriptions, inserted at random wherever the poet
+fancied. Half way up the wall in one place is the door of the old
+Tolbooth at Edinburgh, with the inscription over it, "The Lord of armeis
+is my protector; blissit ar thay that trust in the Lord. 1575."
+
+A doorway at the west end of the house is composed of stones which
+formed the portal of the Tolbooth, given to Sir Walter on the pulling
+down of the building in 1817.
+
+On the east side of the house is a rude carving of a sword with the
+words, "Up with ye, sutors of Selkyrke. A.D. 1525." Another inscription,
+on the same side of the house, runs thus:--
+
+  "By night, by day, remember ay
+    The goodness of ye Lord;
+  And thank his name, whose glorious fame
+    Is spread throughout ye world.--A.C.M.D. 1516."
+
+In the yard, to the right of the doorway of the mansion, we saw the
+figure of Scott's favorite dog Maida, with a Latin inscription--
+
+  "Maidæ marmorea dormis sub imagine, Maida,
+  Ad januam domini: sit tibi terra levis."
+
+Which in our less expressive English we might render--
+
+  At thy lord's door, in slumbers light and blest,
+  Maida, beneath this marble Maida, rest:
+  Light lie the turf upon thy gentle breast.
+
+One of the most endearing traits of Scott was that sympathy and harmony
+which always existed between him and the brute creation.
+
+Poor Maida seemed cold and lonely, washed by the rain in the damp grass
+plat. How sad, yet how expressive is the scriptural phrase for
+indicating death! "He shall return to his house no more, neither shall
+his place know him any more." And this is what all our homes are coming
+to; our buying, our planting, our building, our marrying and giving in
+marriage, our genial firesides and dancing children, are all like so
+many figures passing through the magic lantern, to be put out at last in
+death.
+
+The grounds, I was told, are full of beautiful paths and seats, favorite
+walks and lounges of the poet; but the obdurate pertinacity of the rain
+compelled us to choose the very shortest path possible to the carriage.
+I picked a leaf of the Portugal laurel, which I send you.
+
+Next we were driven to Dryburgh, or rather to the banks of the Tweed,
+where a ferryman, with a small skiff waits to take passengers over.
+
+The Tweed is a clear, rippling river, with a white, pebbly bottom, just
+like our New England mountain streams. After we landed we were to walk
+to the Abbey. Our feet were damp and cold, and our boatman invited us to
+his cottage. I found him and all his family warmly interested in the
+fortunes of Uncle Tom and his friends, and for his sake they received me
+as a long-expected friend. While I was sitting by the ingleside,--that
+is, a coal grate,--warming my feet, I fell into conversation with my
+host. He and his family, I noticed, spoke English more than Scotch; he
+was an intelligent young man, in appearance and style of mind precisely
+what you might expect to meet in a cottage in Maine. He and all the
+household, even the old grandmother, had read Uncle Tom's Cabin, and
+were perfectly familiar with all its details. He told me that it had
+been universally read in the cottages in the vicinity. I judged from his
+mode of speaking, that he and his neighbors were in the habit of reading
+a great deal. I spoke of going to Dryburgh to see the grave of Scott,
+and inquired if his works were much read by the common people. He said
+that Scott was not so much a favorite with the people as Burns. I
+inquired if he took a newspaper. He said that the newspapers were kept
+at so high a price that working men were not able to take them;
+sometimes they got sight of them through clubs, or by borrowing. How
+different, thought I, from America, where a workingman would as soon
+think of going without his bread as without his newspaper!
+
+The cottages of these laboring people, of which there were a whole
+village along here, are mostly of stone, thatched with straw. This
+thatch sometimes gets almost entirely grown over with green moss. Thus
+moss-covered was the roof of the cottage where we stopped, opposite to
+Dryburgh grounds.
+
+There was about this time one of those weeping pauses in the showery
+sky, and a kind of thinning and edging away of the clouds, which gave
+hope that perhaps the sun was going to look out, and give to our
+persevering researches the countenance of his presence. This was
+particularly desirable, as the old woman, who came out with her keys to
+guide us, said she had a cold and a cough: we begged that she would not
+trouble herself to go with us at all. The fact is, with all respect to
+nice old women, and the worthy race of guides in general, they are not
+favorable to poetic meditation. We promised to be very good if she would
+let us have the key, and lock up all the gates, and bring it back; but
+no, she was faithfulness itself, and so went coughing along through the
+dripping and drowned grass to open the gates for us.
+
+This Dryburgh belongs now to the Earl of Buchan, having been bought by
+him from a family of the name of Haliburton, ancestral connections of
+Scott, who, in his autobiography, seems to lament certain mischances of
+fortune which prevented the estate from coming into his own family, and
+gave them, he said, nothing but the right of stretching their bones
+there. It seems a pity, too, because the possession of this rich, poetic
+ruin would have been a mine of wealth to Scott, far transcending the
+stateliest of modern houses.
+
+Now, if you do not remember Scott's poem, of the Eve of St. John, you
+ought to read it over; for it is, I think, the most spirited of all his
+ballads; nothing conceals the transcendent lustre and beauty of these
+compositions, but the splendor of his other literary productions. Had he
+never written any thing but these, they would have made him a name as a
+poet. As it was, I found the fanciful chime of the cadences in this
+ballad ringing through my ears. I kept saying to myself--
+
+  "The Dryburgh bells do ring,
+  And the white monks do sing
+  For Sir Richard of Coldinghame."
+
+And as I was wandering around in the labyrinth, of old, broken, mossy
+arches, I thought--
+
+  "There is a nun in Dryburgh bower
+    Ne'er looks upon the sun;
+  There is a monk in Melrose tower,
+    He speaketh word to none.
+
+  That nun who ne'er beholds the day,
+    That monk who speaks to none,
+  That nun was Smaylhome's lady gay,
+    That monk the bold Baron."
+
+It seems that there is a vault in this edifice which has had some
+superstitious legends attached to it, from having been the residence,
+about fifty years ago, of a mysterious lady, who, being under a vow
+never to behold the light of the sun, only left her cell at midnight.
+This little story, of course, gives just enough superstitious chill to
+this beautiful ruin to help the effect of the pointed arches, the
+clinging wreaths of ivy, the shadowy pines, and yew trees; in short, if
+one had not a guide waiting, who had a bad cold, if one could stroll
+here at leisure by twilight or moonlight, one might get up a
+considerable deal of the mystic and poetic.
+
+There is a part of the ruin that stands most picturesquely by itself, as
+if old Time had intended it for a monument. It is the ruin of that part
+of the chapel called St. Mary's Aisle; it stands surrounded by luxuriant
+thickets of pine and other trees, a cluster of beautiful Gothic arches
+supporting a second tier of smaller and more fanciful ones, one or two
+of which have that light touch of the Moorish in their form which gives
+such a singular and poetic effect in many of the old Gothic ruins. Out
+of these wild arches and windows wave wreaths of ivy, and slender
+harebells shake their blue pendants, looking in and out of the lattices
+like little capricious fairies. There are fragments of ruins lying on
+the ground, and the whole air of the thing is as wild, and dreamlike,
+and picturesque as the poet's fanciful heart could have desired.
+
+Underneath these arches he lies beside his wife; around him the
+representation of the two things he loved most--the wild bloom and
+beauty of nature, and the architectural memorial of by-gone history and
+art. Yet there was one thing I felt I would have had otherwise; it
+seemed to me that the flat stones of the pavement are a weight too heavy
+and too cold to be laid on the breast of a lover of nature and the
+beautiful. The green turf, springing with flowers, that lies above a
+grave, does not seem, to us so hopeless a barrier between us and what
+was warm and loving; the springing grass and daisies there seem, types
+and assurances that the mortal beneath shall put on immortality; they
+come up to us as kind messages from the peaceful dust, to say that it is
+resting in a certain hope of a glorious resurrection.
+
+On the cold flagstones, walled in by iron railings, there were no
+daisies and no moss; but I picked many of both from, the green turf
+around, which, with some sprigs of ivy from the walls, I send you.
+
+It is strange that we turn away from the grave of this man, who achieved
+to himself the most brilliant destiny that ever an author did,--raising
+himself by his own unassisted efforts to be the chosen companions of
+nobles and princes, obtaining all that heart could desire of riches and
+honor,--we turn away and say, Poor Walter Scott! How desolately touching
+is the account in Lockhart, of his dim and indistinct agony the day his
+wife was brought here to be buried! and the last part of that biography
+is the saddest history that I know; it really makes us breathe a long
+sigh of relief when we read of the lowering of the coffin into this
+vault.
+
+What force does all this give to the passage in his diary in which he
+records his estimate of life!--"What is this world? a dream within a
+dream. As we grow older, each step is an awakening. The youth awakes, as
+he thinks, from childhood; the full-grown man despises the pursuits of
+youth as visionary; the old man looks on manhood as a feverish dream.
+The grave the last sleep? No; it is the last and final awakening."
+
+It has often been remarked, that there is no particular moral purpose
+aimed at by Scott in his writings; he often speaks of it himself in his
+last days, in a tone of humility. He represents himself as having been
+employed mostly in the comparatively secondary department of giving
+innocent amusement. He often expressed, humbly and earnestly, the hope
+that he had, at least, done no harm; but I am inclined to think, that
+although moral effect was not primarily his object, yet the influence of
+his writings and whole existence on earth has been decidedly good.
+
+It is a great thing to have a mind of such power and such influence,
+whose recognitions of right and wrong, of virtue and vice, were, in most
+cases, so clear and determined. He never enlists our sympathies in favor
+of vice, by drawing those seductive pictures, in which it comes so near
+the shape and form of virtue that the mind is puzzled as to the boundary
+line. He never makes young ladies feel that they would like to marry
+corsairs, pirates, or sentimental villains of any description. The most
+objectionable thing, perhaps, about his influence, is its sympathy with
+the war spirit. A person Christianly educated can hardly read some of
+his descriptions in the Lady of the Lake and Marmion without an emotion
+of disgust, like what is excited by the same things in Homer; and as the
+world comes more and more under the influence of Christ, it will recede
+more and more from this kind of literature.
+
+Scott has been censured as being wilfully unjust to the Covenanters and
+Puritans. I think he meant really to deal fairly by them, and that what
+_he_ called fairness might seem rank injustice to those brought up to
+venerate them, as we have been. I suppose that in Old Mortality it was
+Scott's honest intention to balance the two parties about fairly, by
+putting on the Covenant side his good, steady, well-behaved hero, Mr.
+Morton, who is just as much of a Puritan as the Puritans would have been
+had they taken Sir Walter Scott's advice; that is to say, a very nice,
+sensible, moral man, who takes the Puritan side because he thinks it the
+_right_ side, but contemplates all the devotional enthusiasm and
+religious ecstasies of his associates from a merely artistic and
+pictorial point of view. The trouble was, when he got his model Puritan
+done, nobody ever knew what he was meant for; and then all the young
+ladies voted steady Henry Morton a bore, and went to falling in love
+with his Cavalier rival, Lord Evandale, and people talked as if it was a
+preconcerted arrangement of Scott, to surprise the female heart, and
+carry it over to the royalist side.
+
+The fact was, in describing Evandale he made a living, effective
+character, because he was describing something he had full sympathy
+with, and put his whole life into; but Henry Morton is a laborious
+arrangement of starch and pasteboard to produce one of those
+supposititious, just-right men, who are always the stupidest of mortals
+after they are made. As to why Scott did not describe such a character
+as the martyr Duke of Argyle, or Hampden, or Sir Harry Vane, where high
+birth, and noble breeding, and chivalrous sentiment were all united with
+intense devotional fervor, the answer is, that he could not do it; he
+had not that in him wherewith to do it; a man cannot create that of
+which he has not first had the elements in himself; and devotional
+enthusiasm is a thing which Scott never felt. Nevertheless, I believe
+that he was perfectly sincere in saying that he would, "if necessary,
+die a martyr for Christianity." He had calm, firm principle to any
+extent, but it never was kindled into fervor. He was of too calm and
+happy a temperament to sound the deepest recesses of souls torn up from
+their depths by mighty conflicts and sorrows. There are souls like the
+"alabaster vase of ointment, very precious," which shed no perfume of
+devotion because a great sorrow has never broken them. Could Scott have
+been given back to the world again after the heavy discipline of life
+had passed over him, he would have spoken otherwise of many things. What
+he vainly struggled to say to Lockhart on his death bed would have been
+a new revelation, of his soul to the world, could he have lived to
+unfold it in literature. But so it is: when we have learned to live,
+life's purpose is answered, and we die!
+
+This is the sum and substance of some conversations held while rambling
+among these scenes, going in and out of arches, climbing into nooks and
+through loopholes, picking moss and ivy, and occasionally retreating
+under the shadow of some arch, while the skies were indulging in a
+sudden burst of emotion. The poor woman who acted as our guide,
+ensconcing herself in a dry corner, stood like a literal Patience on a
+monument, waiting for us to be through; we were sorry for her, but as it
+was our first and last chance, and she would stay there, we could not
+help it.
+
+Near by the abbey is a square, modern mansion, belonging to the Earl of
+Buchan, at present untenanted. There were some black, solemn yew trees
+there, old enough to have told us a deal of history had they been
+inclined to speak; as it was, they could only drizzle.
+
+As we were walking through the yard, a bird broke out into a clear,
+sweet song.
+
+"What bird is that?" said I.
+
+"I think it is the mavis," said the guide. This brought up,--
+
+  "The mavis wild, wie mony a note,
+  Sings drowsy day to rest."
+
+And also,--
+
+  "Merry it is in wild green wood,
+  When mavis and merle are singing."
+
+A verse, by the by, dismally suggestive of contrast to this rainy day.
+
+As we came along out of the gate, walking back towards the village of
+Dryburgh, we began, to hope that the skies had fairly wept themselves
+out; at any rate the rain stopped, and the clouds wore a sulky,
+leaden-gray aspect, as if they were thinking what to do next.
+
+We saw a knot of respectable-looking laboring men at a little distance,
+conversing in a group, and now and then stealing glances at us; one of
+them at last approached and inquired if this was Mrs. Stowe, and being
+answered in the affirmative, they all said heartily, "Madam, ye're right
+welcome to Scotland." The chief speaker, then, after a little
+conversation, asked our party if we would do him the favor to step into
+his cottage near by, to take a little refreshment after our ramble; to
+which we assented with alacrity. He led the way to a neat, stone
+cottage, with a flower garden before the door, and said to a thrifty,
+rosy-cheeked woman, who met us, "Well, and what do you think, wife, if I
+have brought Mrs. Stowe and her party to take a cup of tea with us?"
+
+We were soon seated in a neat, clean kitchen, and our hostess hastened
+to put the teakettle over the grate, lamenting that she had not known of
+our coming, that she might have had a fire "ben the house," meaning by
+the phrase what we Yankees mean by "in the best room." We caught a
+glimpse of the carpet and paper of this room, when the door was opened
+to bring out a few more chairs.
+
+  "Belyve the bairns cam dropping in,"
+
+rosy-cheeked, fresh from school, with satchel and school books, to whom
+I was introduced as the mother of Topsy and Eva.
+
+"Ah," said the father, "such a time as we had, when we were reading the
+book; whiles they were greetin' and whiles in a rage."
+
+My host was quite a young-looking man, with the clear blue eye and
+glowing complexion which one so often meets here; and his wife, with her
+blooming cheeks, neat dress, and well-kept house, was evidently one of
+those fully competent
+
+  "To gar old claes look amaist as weel as new."
+
+I inquired the ages of the several children, to which the father
+answered with about as much chronological accuracy as men generally
+display in such points of family history. The gude wife, after
+correcting his figures once or twice, turned away with a somewhat
+indignant exclamation about men that didn't know their own bairns' ages,
+in which many of us, I presume, could sympathize.
+
+I must not omit to say, that a neighbor of our host had been pressed to
+come in with us; an intelligent-looking man, about fifty. In the course
+of conversation, I found that they were both masons by trade, and as the
+rain had prevented their working, they had met to spend their time in
+reading. They said they were reading a work on America; and thereat
+followed a good deal of general conversation on our country. I found
+that, like many others in this old country, they had a tie to connect
+them with the new--a son in America.
+
+One of our company, in the course of the conversation, says, "They say
+in America that the working classes of England and Scotland are not so
+well off as the slaves." The man's eye flashed. "There are many things,"
+he said, "about the working classes, which are not what they should be;
+there's room for a great deal of improvement in our condition, but," he
+added with an emphasis, "we are _no slaves!_" There was a, touch, of the
+
+  "Scots wha ha' wi' Wallace bled"
+
+about the man, as he spoke, which made the affirmation quite
+unnecessary.
+
+"But," said I, "you think the affairs of the working classes much
+improved of late years?"
+
+"O, certainly," said the other; "since the repeal of the corn laws and
+the passage of the factory bill, and this emigration to America and
+Australia, affairs have been very much altered."
+
+We asked them what they could make a day by their trade. It was much
+less, certainly, than is paid for the same labor in our country; but yet
+the air of comfort and respectability about the cottage, the
+well-clothed and well-schooled, intelligent children, spoke well for the
+result of their labors.
+
+While our conversation was carried on, the teakettle commenced singing
+most melodiously, and by a mutual system of accommodation, a neat tea
+table was spread in the midst of us, and we soon found ourselves seated,
+enjoying some delicious bread and butter, with the garniture of cheese,
+preserves, and tea. Our host before the meal craved a blessing of Him
+who had made of one blood all the families of the earth; a beautiful and
+touching allusion, I thought, between Americans and Scotchmen. Our long
+ramble in the rain had given us something of an appetite, and we did
+ample justice to the excellence of the cheer.
+
+After tea we walked on down again towards the Tweed, our host and his
+friends waiting on us to the boat. As we passed through the village of
+Dryburgh, all the inhabitants of the cottages seemed to be standing in
+their doors, bowing and smiling, and expressing their welcome in a
+gentle, kindly way, that was quite touching.
+
+As we were walking towards the Tweed, the Eildon Hill, with its three
+points, rose before us in the horizon. I thought of the words in the Lay
+of the Last Minstrel:--
+
+  "Warrior, I could say to thee,
+  The words that cleft Eildon Hill in three,
+  And bridled the Tweed with a curb of stone."
+
+I appealed to my friends if they knew any thing about the tradition; I
+thought they seemed rather reluctant to speak of it. O, there was some
+foolish story, they believed; they did not well know what it was.
+
+The picturesque age of human childhood is gone by; men and women cannot
+always be so accommodating as to believe unreasonable stories for the
+convenience of poets.
+
+At the Tweed the man with the skiff was waiting for us. In parting with
+my friend, I said, "Farewell. I hope we may meet again some time."
+
+"I am sure we shall, madam," said he; "if not here, certainly
+hereafter."
+
+After being rowed across I stopped a few moments to admire the rippling
+of the clear water over the pebbles. "I want some of these pebbles of
+the Tweed," I said, "to carry home to America." Two hearty, rosy-cheeked
+Scotch lasses on the shore soon supplied me with as many as I could
+carry.
+
+We got into our carriage, and drove up to Melrose. After a little
+negotiation with the keeper, the doors were unlocked. Just at that
+moment the sun was so gracious as to give a full look through the
+windows, and touch with streaks of gold the green, grassy floor; for the
+beautiful ruin is floored with green grass and roofed with sky: even
+poetry has not exaggerated its beauty, and could not. There is never any
+end to the charms of Gothic architecture. It is like the beauty of
+Cleopatra,--
+
+  "Age cannot wither, custom, cannot stale
+  Her infinite variety."
+
+Here is this Melrose, now, which has been berhymed, bedraggled through
+infinite guide books, and been gaped at and smoked at by dandies, and
+been called a "dear love" by pretty young ladies, and been hawked about
+as a trade article in all neighboring shops, and you know perfectly well
+that all your raptures are spoken for and expected at the door, and your
+going off in an ecstasy is a regular part of the programme; and yet,
+after all, the sad, wild, sweet beauty of the thing comes down on one
+like a cloud; even for the sake of being original you could not, in
+conscience, declare you did not admire it.
+
+We went into a minute examination with our guide, a young man, who
+seemed to have a full sense of its peculiar beauties. I must say here,
+that Walter Scott's description in the Lay of the Last Minstrel is as
+perfect in most details as if it had been written by an architect as
+well as a poet--it is a kind of glorified daguerreotype.
+
+This building was the first of the elaborate and fanciful Gothic which I
+had seen, and is said to excel in the delicacy of its carving any except
+Roslin Castle. As a specimen of the exactness of Scott's description,
+take this verse, where he speaks of the cloisters:--
+
+  "Spreading herbs and flowerets bright,
+  Glistened with the dew of night,
+  Nor herb nor floweret glistened there,
+  But were carved in the cloister arches as fair."
+
+These cloisters were covered porticoes surrounding the garden, where the
+monks walked for exercise. They are now mostly destroyed, but our guide
+showed us the remains of exquisite carvings there, in which each group
+was an imitation of some leaf or flower, such as the curly kail of
+Scotland; a leaf, by the by, as worthy of imitation as the Greek
+acanthus, the trefoil oak, and some other leaves, the names of which I
+do not remember. These Gothic artificers were lovers of nature; they
+studied at the fountain head; hence the never-dying freshness, variety,
+and originality of their conceptions.
+
+Another passage, whose architectural accuracy you feel at once, is
+this:--
+
+  "They entered now the chancel tall;
+  The darkened, roof rose high, aloof
+  On pillars lofty, light, and small:
+  The keystone that locked, each ribbed aisle
+  Was a fleur-de-lis, or a quatre-feuille;
+  The corbels were carved grotesque and grim;
+  And the pillars, with, clustered shafts so trim,
+  With, base and with capital flourished around,
+  Seemed bundles of lances which garlands had bound."
+
+The quatre-feuille here spoken of is an ornament formed by the junction
+of four leaves. The frequent recurrence of the fleur-de-lis in the
+carvings here shows traces of French hands employed in the architecture.
+In one place in the abbey there is a rude inscription, in which a French
+architect commemorates the part he has borne in constructing the
+building.
+
+These corbels are the projections from which, the arches spring, usually
+carved in some fantastic mask or face; and on these the Shakspearian
+imagination of the Gothic artists seems to have let itself loose to run
+riot: there is every variety of expression, from, the most beautiful to
+the most goblin and grotesque. One has the leer of fiendish triumph,
+with budding horns, showing too plainly his paternity; again you have
+the drooping eyelids and saintly features of some fair virgin; and then
+the gasping face of some old monk, apparently in the agonies of death,
+with his toothless gums, hollow cheeks, and sunken eyes. Other faces
+have an earthly and sensual leer; some are wrought into expressions of
+scorn and mockery, some of supplicating agony, and some of grim,
+despair.
+
+One wonders what gloomy, sarcastic, poetic, passionate mind has thus
+amused itself, recording in stone all the range of passions--saintly,
+earthly, and diabolic--on the varying human face. One fancies each
+corbel to have had its history, its archetype in nature; a thousand
+possible stories spring into one's mind. They are wrought with such a
+startling and individual definiteness, that one feels as about
+Shakspeare's characters, as if they must have had a counterpart in real
+existence. The pure, saintly nun may have been some sister, or some
+daughter, or some early love, of the artist, who in an evil hour saw the
+convent barriers rise between her and all that was loving. The fat,
+sensual face may have been a sly sarcasm on some worthy abbot, more
+eminent in flesh than spirit. The fiendish faces may have been wrought
+out of the author's own perturbed dreams.
+
+An architectural work says that one of these corbels, with an anxious
+and sinister Oriental countenance, has been made, by the guides, to
+perform duty as an authentic likeness of the wizard Michael Scott. Now,
+I must earnestly protest against stating things in that way. Why does a
+writer want to break up so laudable a poetic design in the guides? He
+would have been much better occupied in interpreting some of the
+half-defaced old inscriptions into a corroborative account. No doubt it
+_was_ Michael Scott, and looked just like him.
+
+It were a fine field for a story writer to analyze the conception and
+growth of an abbey or cathedral as it formed itself, day after day, and
+year after year, in the soul of some dreamy, impassioned workman, who
+made it the note book where he wrought out imperishably in stone all his
+observations on nature and man. I think it is this strong individualism
+of the architect in the buildings that give the never-dying charm, and
+variety to the Gothic: each Gothic building is a record of the growth,
+character, and individualities of its builder's soul; and hence no two
+can be alike.
+
+I was really disappointed to miss in the abbey the stained glass which
+gives such a lustre and glow to the poetic description. I might have
+known better; but somehow I came there fully expecting to see the
+window, where--
+
+  "Full in the midst his cross of red
+  Triumphant Michael brandished;
+  The moonbeam kissed the holy pane,
+  And threw on the pavement the bloody stain."
+
+Alas! the painted glass was all of the poet's own setting; years ago it
+was shattered by the hands of violence, and the grace of the fashion of
+it hath perished.
+
+The guide pointed to a broken fragment which commanded a view of the
+whole interior. "Sir Walter used to sit here," he said. I fancied I
+could see him sitting on the fragment, gazing around the ruin, and
+mentally restoring it to its original splendor; he brings back the
+colored light into the windows, and throws its many-hued reflections
+over the graves; he ranges the banners along around the walls, and
+rebuilds every shattered arch and aisle, till we have the picture as it
+rises on us in his book.
+
+I confess to a strong feeling of reality, when my guide took me to a
+grave where a flat, green, mossy stone, broken across the middle, is
+reputed to be the grave of Michael Scott. I felt, for the moment, verily
+persuaded that if the guide would pry up one of the stones we should see
+him there, as described:--
+
+  "His hoary beard in silver rolled,
+  He seemed some seventy winters old;
+  A palmer's amice wrapped, him round,
+  With a wrought Spanish baldric bound,
+  Like a pilgrim from beyond the sea:
+  His left hand held his book of might;
+  A silver cross was in his right;
+    The lamp was placed beside his knee:
+  High and majestic was his look,
+  At which, the fellest fiends had shook,
+  And all unruffled, was his face:
+  They trusted his soul had gotten grace."
+
+I never knew before how fervent a believer I had been in the realities
+of these things.
+
+There are two graves that I saw, which correspond to those mentioned in
+these lines:--
+
+  "And there the dying lamps did burn
+    Before thy lone and lowly urn,
+  O gallafit chief of Otterburne,
+    And thine, dark knight of Liddesdale."
+
+The Knight of Otterburne was one of the Earls Douglas, killed in a
+battle with Henry Percy, called Hotspur, in 1388. The Knight of
+Liddesdale was another Douglas, who lived in the reign of David II., and
+was called the "Flower of Chivalry." One performance of this "Flower" is
+rather characteristic of the times. It seems the king made one Ramsey
+high sheriff of Teviotdale. The Earl of Douglas chose to consider this
+as a personal affront, as he wanted the office himself. So, by way of
+exhibiting his own qualifications for administering justice, he one day
+came down on Ramsey, _vi et armis_, took him off his judgment seat,
+carried him to one of his castles, and without more words tumbled him
+and his horse into a deep dungeon, where they both starved to death.
+There's a "Flower" for you, peculiar to the good old times. Nobody could
+have doubted after this his qualifications to be high sheriff.
+
+Having looked all over the abbey from, below, I noticed a ruinous
+winding staircase; so up I went, rustling along through the ivy, which
+matted and wove itself around the stones. Soon I found myself looking
+down on the abbey from a new point of view--from a little narrow stone
+gallery, which threads the whole inside of the building. There I paced
+up and down, looking occasionally through the ivy-wreathed arches on the
+green, turfy floor below.
+
+It seems as if silence and stillness had become a real presence in these
+old places. The voice of the guide and the company beneath had a hushed
+and muffled sound; and when I rustled the ivy leaves, or, in trying to
+break off a branch, loosened some fragment of stone, the sound affected
+me with a startling distinctness. I could not but inly muse and wonder
+on the life these old monks and abbots led, shrined up here as they were
+in this lovely retirement.
+
+In ruder ages these places were the only retreat for men of a spirit too
+gentle to take force and bloodshed for their life's work; men who
+believed that pen and parchment were better than sword and steel. Here I
+suppose multitudes of them lived harmless, dreamy lives--reading old
+manuscripts, copying and illuminating new ones.
+
+It is said that this Melrose is of very ancient origin, extending back
+to the time of the Culdees, the earliest missionaries who established
+religion in Scotland, and who had a settlement in this vicinity.
+However, a royal saint, after a while, took it in hand to patronize, and
+of course the credit went to him, and from, him Scott calls it "St.
+David's lonely pile." In time a body of Cistercian monks were settled
+there.
+
+According to all accounts the abbey has raised some famous saints. We
+read of trances, illuminations, and miraculous beatifications; and of
+one abbot in particular, who exhibited the odor of sanctity so strongly
+that it is said the mere opening of his grave, at intervals, was
+sufficient to perfume the whole establishment with odors of paradise.
+Such stories apart, however, we must consider that for all the
+literature, art, and love of the beautiful, all the humanizing
+influences which hold society together, the world was for many ages
+indebted to these monastic institutions.
+
+In the reformation, this abbey was destroyed amid the general storm,
+which attacked the ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland. "Pull down
+the nest, and the rooks will fly away," was the common saying of the
+mob; and in those days a man was famous according as he had lifted up
+axes upon the carved work.
+
+Melrose was considered for many years merely a stone quarry, from which
+materials were taken for all sorts of buildings, such as constructing
+tolbooths, repairing mills and sluices; and it has been only till a
+comparatively recent period that its priceless value as an architectural
+remain has led to proper efforts for its preservation. It is now most
+carefully kept.
+
+After wandering through the inside we walked out into the old graveyard,
+to look at the outside. The yard is full of old, curious, mouldering
+gravestones; and on one of them there is an inscription sad and peculiar
+enough to have come from the heart of the architect who planned the
+abbey; it runs as follows:--
+
+  "The earth walks on the earth, glittering with gold;
+  The earth goes to the earth sooner than it wold;
+  The earth, builds on the earth, castles and towers;
+  The earth, says to the earth, All shall be ours."
+
+Here, also, we were interested in a plain marble slab, which marks the
+last resting-place of Scott's faithful Tom Purdie, his zealous factotum.
+In his diary, when he hears of the wreck of his fortunes, Scott says of
+this serving man, "Poor Tom Purdie, such news will wring your heart, and
+many a poor fellow's beside, to whom my prosperity was daily bread."
+
+One fancies again the picture described by Lockhart, the strong, lank
+frame, hard features, sunken eyes, and grizzled eyebrows, the green
+jacket, white hat, and gray trousers--the outer appointments of the
+faithful serving man. One sees Scott walking familiarly by his side,
+staying himself on Tom's shoulder, while Tom talks with glee of "_our_
+trees," and "_our_ bukes." One sees the little skirmishing, when master
+wants trees planted one way and man sees best to plant them another; and
+the magnanimity with which kindly, cross-grained Tom at last agrees, on
+reflection, to "take his honor's advice" about the management of his
+honor's own property. Here, between master and man, both freemen, is all
+that beauty of relation sometimes erroneously considered as the peculiar
+charm of slavery. Would it have made the relation any more picturesque
+and endearing had Tom been stripped of legal rights, and made liable to
+sale with the books and furniture of Abbotsford? Poor Tom is sleeping
+here very quietly, with a smooth coverlet of green grass. Over him is
+the following inscription: "Here lies the body of Thomas Purdie, wood
+forester at Abbotsford, who died 29th October, 1829, aged sixty-two
+years. Thou hast been faithful over a few things; I will make thee ruler
+over many things." Matt. xxv. 21.
+
+We walked up, and down, and about, getting the best views of the
+building. It is scarcely possible for description to give you the
+picture. The artist, in whose mind the conception of this building
+arose, was a Mozart in architecture; a plaintive and ethereal lightness,
+a fanciful quaintness, pervaded his composition. The building is not a
+large one, and it has not that air of solemn massive grandeur, that
+plain majesty, which impresses you in the cathedrals of Aberdeen and
+Glasgow. As you stand looking at the wilderness of minarets and flying
+buttresses, the multiplied shrines, and mouldings, and cornices, all
+incrusted with carving as endless in its variety as the frostwork on a
+window pane; each shrine, each pinnace, each moulding, a study by
+itself, yet each contributing, like the different strains of a harmony,
+to the general effect of the whole; it seems to you that for a thing so
+airy and spiritual to have sprung up by enchantment, and to have been
+the product of spells and fairy fingers, is no improbable account of the
+matter.
+
+Speaking of gargoyles--you are no architect, neither am I, but you may
+as well get used to this descriptive term; it means the water-spouts
+which conduct the water from the gutters at the eaves of these
+buildings, and which are carved in every grotesque and fanciful device
+that can be imagined. They are mostly goblin and fiendish faces, and
+look as if they were darting out of the church in a towering passion, or
+a fit of diabolic disgust and malice. Besides these gargoyles, there are
+in many other points of the external building representations of
+fiendish faces and figures, as if in the act of flying from the
+building, under the influence of a terrible spell: by this, as my guide
+said, was expressed the idea that the holy hymns and worship of the
+church put Satan and all his forces to rout, and made all that was evil
+flee.
+
+One remark on this building, in Billings's architectural account of it,
+interested me; and that is, that it is finished with the most
+circumstantial elegance and minuteness in those concealed portions which
+are excluded, from public view, and which can only be inspected by
+laborious climbing or groping; and he accounts for this by the idea that
+the whole carving and execution was considered as an act of solemn
+worship and adoration, in which the artist offered up his best faculties
+to the praise of the Creator.
+
+[Illustration of gargoyles]
+
+After lingering a while here, we went home to our inn or hotel. Now,
+these hotels in the small towns of England, if this is any specimen,
+are delightful affairs for travellers, they are so comfortable and
+home-like. Our snug little parlor was radiant with the light of the coal
+grate; our table stood before it, with its bright silver, white cloth,
+and delicate china cups; and then such a dish of mutton chops! My dear,
+we are all mortal, and emotions of the beautiful and sublime tend
+especially to make one hungry. We, therefore, comforted ourselves over
+the instability of earthly affairs, and the transitory nature of all
+human grandeur, by consolatory remarks on the _present_ whiteness of the
+bread, the sweetness of the butter; and as to the chops, all declared,
+with one voice, that such mutton was a thing unknown in America. I moved
+an emendation, except on the sea coast of Maine. We resolved to cherish
+the memory of our little hostess in our heart of hearts, and as we
+gathered round the cheery grate, drying our cold feet, we voted that
+poetry was a humbug, and damp, old, musty cathedrals a bore. Such are
+the inconsistencies of human nature!
+
+"Nevertheless," said I to S----, after dinner, "I am going back again
+to-night, to see that abbey by moonlight. I intend to walk the whole
+figure while I am about it."
+
+Just on the verge of twilight I stepped out, to see what the town
+afforded in the way of relics. To say the truth, my eye had been caught
+by some cunning little tubs and pails in a window, which I thought might
+be valued in the home department. I went into a shop, where an auld wife
+soon appeared, who, in reply to my inquiries, told me, that the said
+little tubs and pails were made of plum tree wood from Dryburgh Abbey,
+and, of course, partook of the sanctity of relics. She and her husband
+seemed to be driving a thriving trade in the article, and either plum
+trees must be very abundant at Dryburgh, or what there are must be
+gifted with that power of self-multiplication which inheres in the wood
+of the true Cross. I bought them in blind faith, however, suppressing
+all rationalistic doubts, as a good relic hunter should.
+
+I went up into a little room where an elderly woman professed to have
+quite a collection of the Melrose relics. Some years ago extensive
+restorations and repairs were made in the old abbey, in which Walter
+Scott took a deep interest. At that time, when the scaffolding was up
+for repairing the building, as I understood, Scott had the plaster casts
+made of different parts, which he afterwards incorporated into his own
+dwelling at Abbotsford. I said to the good woman that I had understood
+by Washington Irving's account, that Scott appropriated _bona fide_
+fragments of the building, and alluded to the account which he gives of
+the little red sandstone lion from Melrose. She repelled the idea with
+great energy, and said she had often heard Sir Walter say, that he would
+not carry off a bit of the building as big as his thumb. She showed me
+several plaster casts that she had in her possession, which were taken
+at this time. There were several corbels there; one was the head of an
+old monk, and looked as if it might have been a mask taken of his face
+the moment after death; the eyes were hollow and sunken, the cheeks
+fallen in, the mouth lying helplessly open, showing one or two
+melancholy old stumps of teeth. I wondered over this, whether it really
+was the fac-simile of some poor old Father Ambrose, or Father Francis,
+whose disconsolate look, after his death agony, had so struck the gloomy
+fancy of the artist as to lead him to immortalize him in a corbel, for a
+lasting admonition to his fat worldly brethren; for if we may trust the
+old song, these monks of Melrose had rather a suspicious reputation in
+the matter of worldly conformity. The impudent ballad says,--
+
+  "O, the monks of Melrose, they made good, kail
+    On Fridays, when they fasted;
+  They never wanted beef or ale
+    As long as their neighbors' lasted."
+
+Naughty, roistering fellows! I thought I could perceive how this poor
+Father Francis had worn his life out exhorting them to repentance, and
+given up the ghost at last in despair, and so been made at once into a
+saint and a corbel.
+
+There were fragments of tracery, of mouldings and cornices, and
+grotesque bits of architecture there, which I would have given a good
+deal to be the possessor of. Stepping into a little cottage hard by to
+speak to the guide about unlocking the gates, when we went out on our
+moonlight excursion at midnight, I caught a glimpse, in an inner
+apartment, of a splendid, large, black dog. I gave one exclamation and
+jump, and was into the room after him.
+
+"Ah," said the old man, "that was just like Sir Walter; he always had an
+eye for a dog."
+
+It gave me a kind of pain to think of him and his dogs, all lying in the
+dust together; and yet it was pleasant to hear this little remark of
+him, as if it were made by those who had often seen, and were fond of
+thinking of him. The dog's name was Coal, and he was black enough, and
+remarkable enough, to make a figure in a story--a genuine Melrose Abbey
+dog. I should not wonder if he were a descendant, in a remote degree, of
+the "mauthe doog," that supernatural beast, which Scott commemorates in
+his notes. The least touch in the world of such blood in his veins would
+be, of course, an appropriate circumstance in a dog belonging to an old
+ruined abbey.
+
+Well, I got home, and narrated my adventures to my friends, and showed
+them my reliquary purchases, and declared my strengthening intention to
+make my ghostly visit by moonlight, if there was any moon to be had that
+night, which was a doubtful possibility.
+
+In the course of the evening came in Mr. ----, who had volunteered his
+services as guide and attendant during the interesting operation.
+
+"When does the moon rise?" said one.
+
+"O, a little after eleven o'clock, I believe," said Mr. ----.
+
+Some of the party gaped portentously.
+
+"You know," said I, "Scott says we must see it by moonlight; it is one
+of the proprieties of the place, as I understand."
+
+"How exquisite that description is, of the effect of moonlight!" says
+another.
+
+"I think it probable," says Mr. ----, dryly, "that Scott never saw it by
+moonlight himself. He was a man of very regular habits, and seldom went
+out evenings."
+
+The blank amazement with which this communication was received set S----
+into an inextinguishable fit of laughter.
+
+"But do you really believe he never saw it?" said I, rather crestfallen.
+
+"Well," said the gentleman, "I have heard him charged with never having
+seen it, and he never denied it."
+
+Knowing that Scott really was as practical a man as Dr. Franklin, and as
+little disposed to poetic extravagances, and an exceedingly sensible,
+family kind of person, I thought very probably this might be true,
+unless he had seen it some time in his early youth. Most likely good
+Mrs. Scott never would have let him commit the impropriety that we were
+about to, and run the risk of catching the rheumatism by going out to
+see how an old abbey looked at twelve o'clock at night.
+
+We waited for the moon to rise, and of course it did not rise; nothing
+ever does when it is waited for. We went to one window, and went to
+another; half past eleven came, and no moon. "Let us give it up," said
+I, feeling rather foolish. However, we agreed to wait another quarter of
+an hour, and finally Mr. ---- announced that the moon _was_ risen; the
+only reason we did not see it was, because it was behind the Eildon
+Hills. So we voted to consider her risen at any rate, and started out in
+the dark, threading the narrow streets of the village with the
+comforting reflection that we were doing what Sir Walter would think
+rather a silly thing. When we got out before the abbey there was enough
+light behind the Eildon Hills to throw their three shadowy cones out
+distinctly to view, and to touch with a gloaming, uncertain ray the
+ivy-clad walls. As we stood before the abbey, the guide fumbling with
+his keys, and finally heard the old lock clash as the door slowly opened
+to admit us, I felt a little shiver of the ghostly come over me, just
+enough to make it agreeable.
+
+In the daytime we had criticized Walter Scott's moonlight description in
+the lines which say,--
+
+  "The distant Tweed is heard, to rave,
+  And the owlet to hoot o'er the dead man's grave."
+
+"We hear nothing of the Tweed, at any rate," said we; "that must be a
+poetic license." But now at midnight, as we walked silently through the
+mouldering aisles, the brawl of the Tweed was so distinctly heard that
+it seemed as if it was close by the old, lonely pile; nor can any term
+describe the sound more exactly than the word "rave," which the poet
+has chosen. It was the precise accuracy of this little item of
+description which made me feel as if Scott must have been here in the
+night. I walked up into the old chancel, and sat down where William of
+Deloraine and the monk sat, on the Scottish monarch's tomb, and thought
+over the words
+
+  "Strange sounds along the chancel passed,
+  And banners wave without a blast;
+  Still spake the monk when the bell tolled one."
+
+And while we were there the bell tolled twelve.
+
+And then we went to Michael Scott's grave, and we looked through the
+east oriel, with its
+
+  "Slender shafts of shapely stone,
+  By foliage tracery combined."
+
+The fanciful outlines showed all the more distinctly for the entire
+darkness within, and the gloaming moonlight without. The tall arches
+seemed higher in their dimness, and vaster than they did in the daytime.
+"Hark!" said I; "what's that?" as we heard a rustling and flutter of
+wings in the ivy branches over our heads. Only a couple of rooks, whose
+antiquarian slumbers were disturbed by the unwonted noise there at
+midnight, and who rose and flew away, rattling down some fragments of
+the ruin as they went. It was somewhat odd, but I could not help
+fancying, what if these strange, goblin rooks were the spirits of old
+monks coming back to nestle and brood among their ancient cloisters!
+Rooks are a ghostly sort of bird. I think they were made on purpose to
+live in old yew trees and ivy, as much as yew trees and ivy were to grow
+round old churches and abbeys. If we once could get inside of a rook's
+skull, to find out what he is thinking of, I'll warrant that we should
+know a great deal more about these old buildings than we do now. I
+should not wonder if there were long traditionary histories handed down
+from one generation of rooks to another, and that these are what they
+are talking about when we think they are only chattering. I imagine I
+see the whole black fraternity the next day, sitting, one on a gargoyle,
+one on a buttress, another on a shrine, gossiping over the event of our
+nightly visit.
+
+We walked up and down the long aisles, and groped out into the
+cloisters; and then I thought, to get the full ghostliness of the
+thing, we would go up the old, ruined staircase into the long galleries,
+that
+
+  "Midway thread the abbey wall."
+
+We got about half way up, when there came into our faces one of those
+sudden, passionate puffs of mist and rain which Scotch clouds seem to
+have the faculty of getting up at a minute's notice. Whish! came the
+wind in our faces, like the rustling of a whole army of spirits down the
+staircase; whereat we all tumbled back promiscuously on to each other,
+and concluded we would not go up. In fact we had done the thing, and so
+we went home; and I dreamed of arches, and corbels, and gargoyles all
+night. And so, farewell to Melrose Abbey.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+
+EDINBURGH, April.
+
+My DEAR SISTER:--
+
+Mr. S. and C---- returned from their trip to Glasgow much delighted with
+the prospects indicated by the results of the temperance meetings they
+attended there.
+
+They were present at the meeting of the Scottish Temperance League, in
+an audience of about four thousand people. The reports were encouraging,
+and the feeling enthusiastic. One hundred and eighty ministers are on
+the list of the League, forming a nucleus of able, talented, and
+determined operators. It is the intention to make a movement for a law
+which shall secure to Scotland some of the benefits of the Maine law.
+
+It appears to me that on the questions of temperance and antislavery,
+the religious communities of the two countries are in a situation
+mutually to benefit each other. Our church and ministry have been
+through a long struggle and warfare on this temperance question, in
+which a very valuable experience has been, elaborated. The religious
+people of Great Britain, on the contrary, have led on to a successful
+result a great antislavery experiment, wherein their experience and
+success can be equally beneficial and encouraging to us.
+
+The day after we returned from Melrose we spent in resting and riding
+about, as we had two engagements in the evening--one at a party at the
+house of Mr. Douglas, of Cavers, and the other at a public temperance
+_soirée_. Mr. Douglas is the author of several works which have excited
+attention; but perhaps you will remember him best by his treatise on the
+Advancement of Society in Religion and Knowledge. He is what is called
+here a "laird," a man of good family, a large landed proprietor, a
+zealous reformer, and a very devout man.
+
+We went early to spend a short time with the family. I was a little
+surprised, as I entered the hall, to find myself in the midst of a large
+circle of well-dressed men and women, who stood apparently waiting to
+receive us, and who bowed, courtesied, and smiled as we came in. Mrs. D.
+apologized to me afterwards, saying that these were the servants of the
+family, that they were exceedingly anxious to see me, and so she had
+allowed them all to come into the hall. They were so respectable in
+their appearance, and so neatly dressed, that I might almost have
+mistaken them for visitors.
+
+We had a very pleasant hour or two with the family, which I enjoyed
+exceedingly. Mr. and Mrs. Douglas were full of the most considerate
+kindness, and some of the daughters had intimate acquaintances in
+America. I enjoy these little glimpses into family circles more than any
+thing else; there is no warmth like fireside warmth.
+
+In the evening the rooms were filled. I should think all the clergymen
+of Edinburgh must have been there, for I was introduced to ministers
+without number. The Scotch have a good many little ways that are like
+ours; they call their clergy ministers, as we do. There were many
+persons from ancient families, distinguished in Scottish history both
+for rank and piety; among others, Lady Carstairs, Sir Henry Moncrief and
+lady. There was also the Countess of Gainsborough, one of the ladies of
+the queen's household, a very beautiful woman with charming manners,
+reminding one of the line of Pope--
+
+  "Graceful ease, and sweetness void of pride."
+
+I was introduced to Dr. John Brown, who is reckoned one of the best
+exegetial scholars in Europe. He is small of stature, sprightly, and
+pleasant in manners, but with a high bald forehead and snow-white hair.
+
+There were also many members of the faculty of the university. I talked
+a little with Dr. Guthrie, whom I described in a former letter. I told
+him that one thing which had been an agreeable disappointment to me was,
+the apparent cordiality between the members of the Free and the National
+church. He seemed to think that the wounds of the old conflict were, to
+a great extent, healed. He spoke in high terms of the Duchess of
+Sutherland, her affability, kindness, and considerateness to the poor. I
+forget from whom I received the anecdote, but somebody told me this of
+her--that, one of her servants having lost a relative, she had left a
+party where she was engaged, and gone in the plainest attire and
+quietest way to attend the funeral. It was remarked upon as showing her
+considerateness for the feelings of those in inferior positions.
+
+About nine o'clock we left to go to the temperance _soirée_. It was in
+the same place, and conducted in the same way, with the others which I
+have described. The lord provost presided, and one or two of the working
+men who spoke in the former _soirée_ made speeches, and very good ones
+too. The meeting was greatly enlivened by the presence and speech of the
+jovial Lord Conynghame, who amused us all by the gallant manner in which
+he expressed the warmth of Scottish welcome towards "our American
+guests." If it had been in the old times of Scottish hospitality, he
+said, he should have proposed a _bumper_ three times three; but as that
+could not be done in a temperance meeting, he proposed three cheers, in
+which he led off with a hearty good will.
+
+All that the Scotch people need now for the prosperity of their country
+is the temperance reformation; and undoubtedly they will have it. They
+have good sense and strength of mind enough to work out whatever they
+choose.
+
+We went home tired enough.
+
+The next day we had a few calls to make, and an invitation from Lady
+Drummond to visit "classic Hawthornden." Accordingly, in the forenoon,
+Mr. S. and I called first on Lord and Lady Gainsborough; though, she is
+one of the queen's household, she is staying here at Edinburgh, and the
+queen at Osborne. I infer therefore that the appointment includes no
+very onerous duties. The Earl of Gainsborough is the eldest brother of
+Rev. Baptist W. Noel.
+
+Lady Gainsborough is the daughter of the Earl of Roden, who is an Irish
+lord of the very strictest Calvinistic persuasion: He is a devout man,
+and for many years, we were told, maintained a Calvinistic church of the
+English establishment in Paris. While Mr. S. talked with Lord
+Gainsborough, I talked with his lady, and Lady Roden, who was present.
+Lady Gainsborough inquired about our schools for the poor, and how they
+were conducted. I reflected a moment, and then answered that we had no
+schools for the poor as such, but the common school was open alike to
+all classes.[K]
+
+In England and Scotland, in all classes, from the queen downward, no
+movements are so popular as those for the education and elevation of the
+poor; one is seldom in company without hearing the conversation turn
+upon them.
+
+The conversation generally turned upon the condition of servants in
+America. I said that one of the principal difficulties in American
+housekeeping proceeded from the fact that there were so many other
+openings of profit that very few were found willing to assume the
+position of the servant, except as a temporary expedient; in fact, that
+the whole idea of service was radically different, it being a mere
+temporary contract to render certain services, not differing essentially
+from the contract of the mechanic or tradesman. The ladies said they
+thought there could be no family feeling among servants if that was the
+case; and I replied that, generally speaking, there was none; that old
+and attached family servants in the free states were rare exceptions.
+
+This, I know, must look, to persons in old countries, like a hard and
+discouraging feature of democracy. I regard it, however, as only a
+temporary difficulty. Many institutions among us are in a transition
+state. Gradually the whole subject of the relations of labor and the
+industrial callings will assume a new form in America, and though we
+shall never be able to command the kind of service secured in
+aristocratic countries, yet we shall have that which will be as faithful
+and efficient. If domestic service can be made as pleasant, profitable,
+and respectable as any of the industrial callings, it will soon become
+as permanent.
+
+Our next visit was to Sir William Hamilton and lady. Sir William is the
+able successor of Dugald Stewart and Dr. Brown in the chair of
+intellectual philosophy. His writings have had a wide circulation in
+America. He is a man of noble presence, though we were sorry to see that
+he was suffering from ill health. It seems to me that Scotland bears
+that relation to England, with regard to metaphysical inquiry, that New
+England does to the rest of the United States. If one counts over the
+names of distinguished metaphysicians, the Scotch, as compared with the
+English, number three to one--Reid, Stewart, Brown, all Scotchmen.
+
+Sir William still writes and lectures. He and Mr. S. were soon
+discoursing on German, English, Scotch, and American metaphysics, while
+I was talking with Lady Hamilton and her daughters. After we came away
+Mr. S. said, that no man living had so thoroughly understood and
+analyzed the German philosophy. He said that Sir William spoke of a call
+which he had received from Professor Park, of Andover, and expressed
+himself in high terms of his metaphysical powers.
+
+After that we went to call on George Combe, the physiologist. We found
+him and Mrs. Combe in a pleasant, sunny parlor, where, among other
+objects of artistic interest, we saw a very fine engraving of Mrs.
+Siddons. I was not aware until after leaving that Mrs. Combe is her
+daughter. Mr. Combe, though somewhat advanced, seems full of life and
+animation, and conversed with a great deal of warmth and interest on
+America, where he made a tour some years since. Like other men in Europe
+who sympathize in our progress, he was sanguine in the hope that the
+downfall of slavery must come at no distant date.
+
+After a pleasant chat here we came home; and after an interval of rest
+the carriage was at the door for Hawthornden. It is about seven miles
+out from Edinburgh. It is a most romantic spot, on the banks of the
+River Esk, now the seat of Mr. James Walker Drummond. Scott has sung in
+the ballad of the Gray Brother,--
+
+  Sweet are the paths, O, passing sweet,
+    By Esk's fair streams that run,
+  O'er airy steep, through copse-woods deep,
+    Impervious to the sun.
+
+  Who knows not Melville's beechy grove,
+    And Roslin's rocky glen,
+  Dalkeith, which all the virtues love,
+    And classic Hawthornden?
+
+"Melville's beechy grove" is an allusion to the grounds of Lord
+Melville, through which we drove on our way. The beech trees here are
+magnificent; fully equal to any trees of the sort which I have seen in
+our American forests, and they were in full leaf. They do not grow so
+high, but have more breadth and a wider sweep of branches; on the whole
+they are well worthy of a place in song.
+
+I know in my childhood I often used to wish that I could live in a
+ruined castle; and this Hawthornden would be the very beau ideal of one
+as a romantic dwelling-place. It is an old castellated house, perched on
+the airy verge of a precipice, directly over the beautiful River Esk,
+looking down one of the most romantic glens in Scotland. Part of it is
+in ruins, and, hung with wreaths of ivy, it seems to stand just to look
+picturesque. The house itself, with its quaint, high gables, and gray,
+antique walls, appears old enough to take you back to the times of
+William Wallace. It is situated within an hour's walk of Roslin Castle
+and Chapel, one of the most beautiful and poetic architectural remains
+in Scotland.
+
+Our drive to the place was charming. It was a showery day; but every few
+moments the sun blinked out, smiling through the falling rain, and
+making the wet leaves glitter, and the raindrops wink at each other in
+the most sociable manner possible. Arrived at the house, our friend,
+Miss S----, took us into a beautiful parlor overhanging the glen, each
+window of which commanded a picture better than was ever made on
+canvas.
+
+We had a little chat with Lady Drummond, and then we went down to
+examine the caverns,--for there are caverns under the house, with long
+galleries and passages running from them through the rocks, some way
+down the river. Several apartments are hollowed out here in the rock on
+which the house is founded, which they told us belonged to Bruce; the
+tradition being, that he was hidden here for some months. There was his
+bed room, dining room, sitting room, and a very curious apartment where
+the walls were all honeycombed into little partitions, which they called
+his library, these little partitions being his book shelves. There are
+small loophole windows in these apartments, where you can look up and
+down the glen, and enjoy a magnificent prospect. For my part, I thought
+if I were Bruce, sitting there with a book in my lap, listening to the
+gentle brawl of the Esk, looking up and down the glen, watching the
+shaking raindrops on the oaks, the birches and beeches, I should have
+thought that was better than fighting, and that my pleasant little cave
+was as good an arbor on the Hill Difficulty as ever mortal man enjoyed.
+
+There is a ponderous old two-handed sword kept here, said to have
+belonged to Sir William Wallace. It is considerably shorter than it was
+originally, but, resting on its point, it reached to the chin of a good
+six foot gentleman of our party. The handle is made of the horn of a
+sea-horse, (if you know what that is,) and has a heavy iron ball at the
+end. It must altogether have weighed some ten or twelve pounds. Think of
+a man hewing away _on men_ with this!
+
+There is a well in this cavern, down which we were directed to look and
+observe a hole in the side; this we were told was the entrance to
+another set of caverns and chambers under those in which we were, and
+to passages which extended down and opened out into the valley. In the
+olden days the approach to these caverns was not through the house, but
+through the side of a deep well sunk in the court yard, which
+communicates through a subterranean passage with this well. Those
+seeking entrance were let down by a windlass into the well in the court
+yard, and drawn up by a windlass into this cavern. There was no such
+accommodation at present, but we were told some enterprising tourists
+had explored the lower caverns. Pleasant kind of times those old days
+must have been, when houses had to be built like a rabbit burrow, with
+all these accommodations for concealment and escape.
+
+After exploring the caverns we came up into the parlors again, and Miss
+S. showed me a Scottish album, in which were all sorts of sketches,
+memorials, autographs, and other such matters. What interested me more,
+she was making a collection of Scottish ballads, words and tunes. I told
+her that I had noticed, since I had been in Scotland, that the young
+ladies seemed to take very little interest in the national Scotch airs,
+and were all devoted to Italian; moreover, that the Scotch ballads and
+memories, which so interested me, seemed to have very little interest
+for people generally in Scotland. Miss S. was warm enough in her zeal to
+make up a considerable account, and so we got on well together.
+
+While we were sitting, chatting, two young ladies came in, who had
+walked up the glen despite the showery day. They were protected by good,
+substantial outer garments, of a kind of shag or plush, and so did not
+fear the rain. I wanted to walk down to Roslin Castle, but the party
+told me there would not be time this afternoon, as we should have to
+return at a certain hour. I should not have been reconciled to this, had
+not another excursion been proposed for the purpose of exploring
+Roslin.
+
+However, I determined to go a little way down the glen, and get a
+distant view of it, and my fair friends, the young ladies, offered to
+accompany me; so off we started down the winding paths, which were cut
+among the banks overhanging the Esk. The ground was starred over with
+patches of pale-yellow primroses, and for the first time I saw the
+heather, spreading over rocks and matting itself around the roots of
+trees. My companions, to whom it was the commonest thing in the world,
+could hardly appreciate the delight which I felt in looking at it; it
+was not in flower; I believe it does not blossom till some time in July
+or August. We have often seen it in greenhouses, and it is so hardy that
+it is singular it will not grow wild in America.
+
+We walked, ran, and scrambled to an eminence which commanded a view of
+Roslin Chapel, the only view, I fear, which will ever gladden my eyes,
+for the promised expedition to it dissolved itself into mist. When on
+the hill top, so that I could see the chapel at a distance, I stood
+thinking over the ballad of Harold, in the Lay of the Last Minstrel, and
+the fate of the lovely Rosabel, and saying over to myself the last
+verses of the ballad:--
+
+  "O'er Roslin, all that dreary night,
+    A wondrous blaze was seen to gleam;
+  'Twas broader than the watchfire's light,
+    And redder than the bright moonbeam.
+
+  It glared on Roslin's castled rock,
+    It ruddied, all the copsewood glen;
+  'Twas seen from Deyden's groves of oak,
+    And seen from cavern'd Hawthornden.
+
+  Seemed all on fire that chapel proud,
+    Where Roslin's chiefs uncoffined lie,
+  Each baron, for a sable shroud,
+    Sheathed in his iron panoply.
+
+  Seemed all on fire within, around,
+    Deep sacristy and altar's pale;
+  Shone every pillar foliage-bound,
+    And glimmered, all the dead men's mail.
+
+  Blazed battlement and pinnet high,
+    Blazed every rose-carved buttress fair,
+  So will they blaze, when fate is nigh
+    The lordly line of high St. Clair.
+
+  There are twenty of Roslin's barons bold
+    Lie buried, within that proud chapelle;
+  Each one the holy vault doth hold;
+    But the sea holds lovely Rosabelle!
+
+  And each St. Clair was buried there,
+    With candle, with book, and with knell;
+  But the sea caves rung, and the wild winds sung,
+    The dirge of lovely Rosabelle."
+
+There are many allusions in this which show Scott's minute habits of
+observation; for instance, these two lines:--
+
+  "Blazed battlement and pinnet high,
+    Blazed every rose-carved buttress fair."
+
+Every buttress, battlement, and projection of the exterior is incrusted
+with the most elaborate floral and leafy carving, among which the rose
+is often repeated, from its suggesting, by similarity of sound, Roslin.
+
+Again, this line--
+
+  "Shone every pillar foliage-bound"--
+
+suggests to the mind the profusion and elaborateness of the leafy
+decorations in the inside. Among these, one pillar, garlanded with
+spiral wreaths of carved foliage, is called the "Apprentice's Pillar;"
+the tradition being, that while the master was gone to Rome to get some
+further hints on executing the plan, a precocious young mason, whom he
+left at home, completed it in his absence. The master builder summarily
+knocked him on the head, as a warning to all progressive young men not
+to grow wiser than their teachers. Tradition points out the heads of the
+master and workmen among the corbels. So you see, whereas in old Greek
+times people used to point out their celebrities among the stars, and
+gave a defunct hero a place in the constellations, in the middle ages he
+only got a place among the corbels.
+
+I am increasingly sorry that I was beguiled out of my personal
+examination of this chapel, since I have seen the plates of it in my
+Baronial Sketches. It is the rival of Melrose, but more elaborate; in
+fact, it is a perfect cataract of architectural vivacity and ingenuity,
+as defiant of any rules of criticism and art as the leaf-embowered
+arcades and arches of our American forest cathedrals. From the
+comparison of the plates of the engravings, I should judge there was
+less delicacy of taste, and more exuberance of invention, than in
+Melrose. One old prosaic commentator on it says that it is quite
+remarkable that there are no two cuts in it precisely alike; each
+buttress, window, and pillar is unique, though with such a general
+resemblance to each other as to deceive the eye.
+
+It was built in 1446, by William St. Clair, who was Prince of Orkney,
+Duke of Oldenburgh, Lord of Roslin, Earl of Caithness and Strathearn,
+and so on _ad infinitum_. He was called the "Seemly St. Clair," from his
+noble deportment and elegant manners; resided in royal splendor at this
+Castle of Roslin, and kept a court there as Prince of Orkney. His table
+was served with vessels of gold and silver, and he had one lord for his
+master of household, one for his cup bearer, and one for his carver. His
+princess, Elizabeth Douglas, was served by seventy-five gentlewomen,
+fifty-three of whom were daughters of noblemen, and they were attended
+in all their excursions by a retinue of two hundred gentlemen.
+
+These very woods and streams, which now hear nothing but the murmurs of
+the Esk, were all alive with the bustle of a court in those days.
+
+The castle was now distinctly visible; it stands on an insulated rock,
+two hundred and twenty yards from the chapel. It has under it a set of
+excavations and caverns almost equally curious with those of
+Hawthornden; there are still some tolerably preserved rooms in it, and
+Mrs. W. informed me that they had once rented these rooms for a summer
+residence. What a delightful idea! The barons of Roslin were all buried
+under this Chapel, in their armor, as Scott describes in the poem. And
+as this family were altogether more than common folks, it is perfectly
+credible that on the death of one of them a miraculous light should
+illuminate the castle, chapel, and whole neighborhood.
+
+It appears, by certain ancient documents, that this high and mighty
+house of St. Clair were in a particular manner patrons of the masonic
+craft. It is known that the trade of masonry was then in the hands of a
+secret and mysterious order, from whom probably our modern masons have
+descended.
+
+The St. Clair family, it appears, were at the head of this order, with
+power to appoint officers and places of meeting, to punish
+transgressors, and otherwise to have the superintendence of all their
+affairs. This fact may account for such a perfect Geyser of
+architectural ingenuity as has been poured out upon their family chapel,
+which was designed for a _chef-d'oeuvre_, a concentration of the best
+that could be done to the honor of their patron's family. The documents
+which authenticate this statement are described in Billings's Baronial
+Antiquities. So much for "the lordly line of high St. Clair."
+
+When we came back to the house, and after taking coffee in the drawing
+room, Miss S. took me over the interior, a most delightful place, full
+of all sorts of out-of-the-way snuggeries, and comfortable corners, and
+poetic irregularities. There she showed me a picture of one of the early
+ancestors of the family, the poet Drummond, hanging in a room, which
+tradition has assigned to him. It represents a man with a dark,
+Spanish-looking face, with the broad Elizabethan ruff, earnest,
+melancholy eyes, and an air half cavalier, half poet, bringing to mind
+the chivalrous, graceful, fastidious bard, accomplished scholar, and
+courtier of his time, the devout believer in the divine right of kings,
+and of the immunities and privileges of the upper class generally. This
+Drummond, it seems, was early engaged to a fair young lady, whose death
+rendered his beautiful retreat of Hawthornden insupportable to him, and
+of course, like other persons of romance, he sought refuge in foreign
+travel, went abroad, and remained eight years. Afterwards he came back,
+married, and lived here for some time.
+
+Among other traditions of the place, it is said that Ben Jonson once
+walked all the way from London to visit the poet in this retreat; and a
+tree is still shown on the grounds under which they are said to have
+met. It seems that Ben's habits were rather too noisy and convivial to
+meet altogether the taste of his fastidious and aristocratic host; and
+so he had his own thoughts of him, which, being written down in a diary,
+were published by some indiscreet executor, after they were both dead.
+
+We were shown an old, original edition of the poems. I must confess I
+never read them. Since I have seen the material the poet and novelist
+has on this ground, all I wonder at is, that there have not been a
+thousand poets to one. I should have thought they would have been as
+plenty as the mavis and merle, and sprouting out every where, like the
+primroses and heather bells.
+
+Our American literature is unfortunate in this respect--that our nation
+never had any childhood, our day never had any dawn; so we have very
+little traditionary lore to work over.
+
+We came home about five o'clock, and had some company in the evening.
+Some time to-day I had a little chat with Mrs. W. on the Quakers. She is
+a cultivated and thoughtful woman, and seemed to take quite impartial
+views, and did not consider her own sect as by any means the only form
+of Christianity, but maintained--what every sensible person must grant,
+I think--that it has had an important mission in society, even in its
+peculiarities. I inferred from her conversation that the system of plain
+dress, maintained with the nicety which they always use, is by no means
+a saving in a pecuniary point of view. She stated that one young friend,
+who had been brought up in this persuasion, gave it as her reason for
+not adopting its peculiar dress, that she could not afford it; that is
+to say, that for a given sum of money she could make a more creditable
+appearance were she allowed the range of form, shape, and trimming,
+which the ordinary style of dressing permits.
+
+I think almost any lady, who knows the magical value of bits of
+trimming, and bows of ribbon judiciously adjusted in critical locations,
+of inserting, edging, and embroidery, considered as economic arts, must
+acknowledge that there is some force in the young lady's opinion.
+Nevertheless the Doric simplicity of a Quaker lady's dress, who is in
+circumstances to choose her material, has a peculiar charm. As at
+present advised, the Quaker ladies whom I have seen very judiciously
+adhere to the spirit of plain attire, without troubling themselves to
+maintain the exact letter. For instance, a plain straw cottage, with its
+white satin ribbon, is sometimes allowed to take the place of the close
+silk bonnet of Fox's day.
+
+For my part, while I reverence the pious and unworldly spirit which
+dictated the peculiar forms of the Quaker sect, I look for a higher
+development of religion still, when all the beautiful artistic faculties
+of the soul being wholly sanctified and offered up to God, we shall no
+longer shun beauty in any of its forms, either in dress or household
+adornment, as a temptation, but rather offer it up as a sacrifice to Him
+who has set us the example, by making every thing beautiful in its
+season.
+
+As to art and letters, I find many of my Quaker friends sympathizing in
+those judicious views which were taken by the society of Friends in
+Philadelphia, when Benjamin West developed a talent for painting,
+regarding such talent as an indication of the will of Him who had
+bestowed it. So I find many of them taking pleasure in the poetry of
+Scott, Longfellow, and Whittier, as developments of his wisdom who gives
+to the human soul its different faculties and inspirations.
+
+More delightful society than a cultivated Quaker family cannot be found:
+the truthfulness, genuineness, and simplicity of character, albeit not
+wanting, at proper times, a shrewd dash of worldly wisdom, are very
+refreshing.
+
+Mrs. W. and I went to the studio of Hervey, the Scotch artist. Both he
+and his wife received us with great kindness. I saw there his
+Covenanters celebrating the Lord's Supper--a picture which I could not
+look at critically on account of the tears which kept blinding my eyes.
+It represents a bleak hollow of a mountain side, where a few trembling
+old men and women, a few young girls and children, with one or two young
+men, are grouped together, in that moment of hushed prayerful repose
+which precedes the breaking of the sacramental bread. There is something
+touching always about that worn, weary look of rest and comfort with
+which a sick child lies down on a mother's bosom, and like this is the
+expression with which these hunted fugitives nestle themselves beneath
+the shadow of their Redeemer; mothers who had seen their sons "tortured,
+not accepting deliverance"--wives who had seen the blood of their
+husbands poured out on their doorstone--children with no father but
+God--and bereaved old men, from whom, every child had been rent--all
+gathering for comfort round the cross of a suffering Lord. In such hours
+they found strength to suffer, and to say to every allurement of worldly
+sense and pleasure as the drowning Margaret Wilson said to the tempters
+in her hour of martyrdom, "I am _Christ's child_--let me go."
+
+Another most touching picture of Hervey's commemorates a later scene of
+Scottish devotion and martyr endurance scarcely below that of the days
+of the Covenant. It is called Leaving the Manse.
+
+We in America all felt to our heart's core a sympathy with that high
+endurance which led so many Scottish ministers to forsake their
+churches, their salaries, the happy homes where their children were born
+and their days passed, rather than violate a principle.
+
+This picture is a monument of this struggle. There rises the manse
+overgrown with its flowering vines, the image of a lovely, peaceful
+home. The minister's wife, a pale, lovely creature, is just locking the
+door, out of which her husband and family have passed--leaving it
+forever. The husband and father is supporting on his arm an aged, feeble
+mother, and the weeping children are gathering sorrowfully round him,
+each bearing away some memorial of their home; one has the bird cage.
+But the unequalled look of high, unshaken patience, of heroic faith, and
+love which seems to spread its light over every face, is what I cannot
+paint. The painter told me that the faces were _portraits_, and the
+scene by no means imaginary.
+
+But did not these sacrifices bring with them, even in their bitterness,
+a joy the world knoweth not? Yes, they did. I know it full well, not
+vainly did Christ say, There is no man that hath left houses or lands
+for my sake and the gospel's but he shall receive manifold more _in this
+life_.
+
+Mr. Hervey kindly gave me the engraving of his Covenanters' Sacrament,
+which I shall keep as a memento of him and of Scotland.
+
+His style of painting is forcible and individual. He showed us the
+studies that he has taken with his palette and brushes out on the
+mountains and moors of Scotland, painting moss, and stone, and brook,
+just as it is. This is the way to be a national painter.
+
+One pleasant evening, not long before we left Edinburgh, C., S., and I
+walked out for a quiet stroll. We went through the Grass Market, where
+so many defenders of the Covenant have suffered, and turned into the
+churchyard of the Gray Friars; a gray, old Gothic building, with
+multitudes of graves around it. Here we saw the tombs of Allan Ramsay
+and many other distinguished characters. The grim, uncouth sculpture on
+the old graves, and the quaint epitaphs, interested me much; but I was
+most moved by coming quite unexpectedly on an ivy-grown slab, in the
+wall, commemorating the martyrs of the Covenant. The inscription struck
+me so much, that I got C---- to copy it in his memorandum book.
+
+  "Halt, passenger! take heed what you do see.
+  Here lies interred the dust of those who stood
+  'Gainst perjury, resisting unto blood,
+  Adhering to the Covenant, and laws
+  Establishing the same; which was the cause
+  Their lives were sacrificed unto the last
+  Of prelatists abjured, though here their dust
+  Lies mixed with murderers and other crew
+  Whom justice justly did to death pursue;
+  But as for them, no cause was to be found
+  Worthy of death, but only they were found
+  Constant and steadfast, witnessing
+  For the prerogatives of Christ their King;
+  Which truths were sealed, by famous Guthrie's head,
+  And all along to Mr. Renwick's blood
+  They did endure the wrath of enemies,
+  Reproaches, torments, deaths, and injuries;
+  But yet they're those who from such troubles came
+  And triumph now in glory with the Lamb.
+
+     "From May 27, 1681, when the Marquis of Argyle was beheaded, to
+     February 17, 1688, when James Renwick suffered, there were some
+     eighteen thousand one way or other murdered, of whom were executed
+     at Edinburgh about one hundred noblemen, ministers, and gentlemen,
+     and others, noble martyrs for Christ."
+
+Despite the roughness of the verse, there is a thrilling power in these
+lines. People in gilded houses, on silken couches, at ease among books,
+and friends, and literary pastimes, may sneer at the Covenanters; it is
+much easier to sneer than to die for truth and right, as they died.
+Whether they were right in all respects is nothing to the purpose; but
+it is to the purpose that in a crisis of their country's history they
+upheld a great principle vital to her existence. Had not these men held
+up the heart of Scotland, and kept alive the fire of liberty on her
+altars, the very literature which has been used to defame them could not
+have had its existence. The very literary celebrity of Scotland has
+grown out of their grave; for a vigorous and original literature is
+impossible, except to a strong, free, self-respecting people. The
+literature of a people must spring from the sense of its nationality;
+and nationality is impossible without self-respect, and self-respect is
+impossible without liberty.
+
+It is one of the trials of our mortal state, one of the disciplines of
+our virtue, that the world's benefactors and reformers are so often
+without form or comeliness. The very force necessary to sustain the
+conflict makes them appear unlovely; they "tread the wine press alone,
+and of the people there is none with them." The shrieks, and groans, and
+agonies of men wrestling in mortal combat are often not graceful or
+gracious; but the comments that the children of the Puritans, and the
+children of the Covenanters, make on the ungraceful and severe elements
+which marked the struggles of their great fathers, are as ill-timed as
+if a son, whom a mother had just borne from a burning dwelling, should
+criticize the shrieks with which she sought him, and point out to
+ridicule the dishevelled hair and singed garments which show how she
+struggled for his life. But these are they which are "sown in weakness,
+but raised in power; which are sown in dishonor, but raised in glory:"
+even in this world they will have their judgment day, and their names
+which went down in the dust like a gallant banner trodden in the mire,
+shall rise again all glorious in the sight of nations.
+
+The evening sky, glowing red, threw out the bold outline of the castle,
+and the quaint old edifices as they seemed to look down on us silently
+from their rocky heights, and the figure of Salisbury Crags marked
+itself against the red sky like a couchant lion.
+
+The time of our sojourn in Scotland had drawn towards its close. Though
+feeble in health, this visit to me has been full of enjoyment; full of
+lofty, but sad memories; full of sympathies and inspirations. I think
+there is no nobler land, and I pray God that the old seed here sown in
+blood and tears may never be rooted out of Scotland.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER X.
+
+
+MY DEAR H.:--
+
+It was a rainy, misty morning when I left my kind retreat and friends in
+Edinburgh. Considerate as every body had been about imposing on my time
+or strength, still you may well believe that I was much exhausted.
+
+We left Edinburgh, therefore, with the determination to plunge at once
+into some hidden and unknown spot, where we might spend two or three
+days quietly by ourselves; and remembering your Sunday at
+Stratford-on-Avon, I proposed that we should go there. As Stratford,
+however, is off the railroad line we determined to accept the
+invitation, which was lying by us, from our friend Joseph Sturge, of
+Birmingham, and take sanctuary with him. So we wrote on, intrusting him
+with the secret, and charging him on no account to let any one know of
+our arrival.
+
+Well in the rail car, we went whirling along by Preston Pans, where was
+fought the celebrated battle in which Colonel Gardiner was killed; by
+Dunbar, where Cromwell told his army to "trust in God and keep their
+powder dry;" through Berwick-on-the-Tweed and Newcastle-on-Tyne; by the
+old towers and gates of York, with its splendid cathedral; getting a
+view of Durham Cathedral in the distance.
+
+The country between Berwick and Newcastle is one of the greatest
+manufacturing districts of England, and for smoke, smut, and gloom,
+Pittsburg and Wheeling bear no comparison to it. The English sky,
+always paler and cooler in its tints than ours, here seems to be turned
+into a leaden canopy; tall chimneys belch forth gloom and confusion;
+houses, factories, fences, even trees and grass, look grim and sooty.
+
+It is true that people with immense wealth can live in such regions in
+cleanliness and elegance; but how must it be with the poor? I know of no
+one circumstance more unfavorable to moral purity than the necessity of
+being physically dirty. Our nature is so intensely symbolical, that
+where the outward sign of defilement becomes habitual, the inner is too
+apt to correspond. I am quite sure that before there can be a universal
+millennium, trade must be pursued in such a way as to enable the working
+classes to realize something of beauty and purity in the circumstances
+of their outward life.
+
+I have heard there is a law before the British Parliament, whose
+operation is designed to purify the air of England by introducing
+chimneys which shall consume all the sooty particles which now float
+about, obscuring the air and carrying defilement with them. May that day
+be hastened!
+
+At Newcastle-on-Tyne and some other places various friends came out to
+meet us, some of whom presented us with most splendid bouquets of
+hothouse flowers. This region has been the seat of some of the most
+zealous and efficient antislavery operations in England.
+
+About night our cars whizzed into the depot at Birmingham; but just
+before we came in a difficulty was started in the company. "Mr. Sturge
+is to be there waiting for us, but he does not know us, and we don't
+know him; what is to be done?" C---- insisted that he should know him by
+instinct; and so after we reached the depot, we told him to sally out
+and try. Sure enough, in a few moments he pitched upon a cheerful,
+middle-aged gentleman, with a moderate but not decisive broad brim to
+his hat, and challenged him as Mr. Sturge; the result verified the truth
+that "instinct is a great matter." In a few moments our new friend and
+ourselves were snugly encased in a fly, trotting off as briskly as ever
+we could to his place at Edgbaston, nobody a whit the wiser. You do not
+know how snug we felt to think we had done it so nicely.
+
+The carriage soon drove in upon a gravel walk, winding among turf,
+flowers, and shrubs, where we found opening to us another home as warm
+and kindly as the one we had just left, made doubly interesting by the
+idea of entire privacy and seclusion.
+
+After retiring to our chambers to repair the ravages of travel, we
+united in the pleasant supper room, where the table was laid before a
+bright coal fire: no unimportant feature this fire, I can assure you, in
+a raw cloudy evening. A glass door from the supper room opened into a
+conservatory, brilliant with pink and yellow azalias, golden
+calceolarias, and a profusion of other beauties, whose names I did not
+know.
+
+The side tables were strewn with books, and the ample folds of the drab
+curtains, let down over the windows, shut out the rain, damp, and chill.
+When we were gathered round the table, Mr. Sturge said that he had
+somewhat expected Elihu Burritt that evening, and we all hoped he would
+come. I must not omit to say, that the evening circle was made more
+attractive and agreeable in my eyes by the presence of two or three of
+the little people, who were blessed with the rosy cheek of English
+children.
+
+Mr. Sturge is one of the most prominent and efficient of the
+philanthropists of modern days. An air of benignity and easy good
+nature veils and conceals in him the most unflinching perseverance and
+energy of purpose. He has for many years been a zealous advocate of the
+antislavery cause in England, taking up efficiently the work begun by
+Clarkson and Wilberforce. He, with a friend of the same denomination,
+made a journey at their own expense, to investigate the workings of the
+apprentice system, by which the act of immediate emancipation in the
+West Indies was for a while delayed. After his return he sustained a
+rigorous examination of seven days before a committee of the House of
+Commons, the result of which successfully demonstrated the abuses of
+that system, and its entire inutility for preparing either masters or
+servants for final emancipation. This evidence went as far as any thing
+to induce Parliament to declare immediate and entire emancipation.
+
+Mr. Sturge also has been equally zealous and engaged in movements for
+the ignorant and perishing classes at home. At his own expense he has
+sustained a private Farm School for the reformation of juvenile
+offenders, and it has sometimes been found that boys, whom no severity
+and no punishment seemed to affect, have been entirely melted and
+subdued by the gentler measures here employed. He has also taken a very
+ardent and decided part in efforts for the extension of the principles
+of peace, being a warm friend and supporter of Elihu Burritt.
+
+The next morning it was agreed that we should take our drive to
+Stratford-on-Avon. As yet this shrine of pilgrims stands a little aloof
+from the bustle of modern progress, and railroad cars do not run
+whistling and whisking with brisk officiousness by the old church and
+the fanciful banks of the Avon.
+
+The country that we were to pass over was more peculiarly old English;
+that phase of old English which is destined soon to pass away, under the
+restless regenerating force of modern progress.
+
+Our ride along was a singular commixture of an upper and under current
+of thought. Deep down in our hearts we were going back to English days;
+the cumbrous, quaint, queer, old, picturesque times; the dim, haunted
+times between cock-crowing and morning; those hours of national
+childhood, when popular ideas had the confiding credulity, the poetic
+vivacity, and versatile life, which distinguish children from grown
+people.
+
+No one can fail to feel, in reading any of the plays of Shakspeare, that
+he was born in an age of credulity and marvels, and that the materials
+out of which his mind was woven were dyed in the grain, in the haunted
+springs of tradition. It would have been as absolutely impossible for
+even himself, had he been born in the daylight of this century, to have
+built those quaint, Gothic structures of imagination, and tinted them
+with their peculiar coloring of marvellousness and mystery, as for a
+modern artist to originate and execute the weird designs of an ancient
+cathedral. Both Gothic architecture and this perfection of Gothic poetry
+were the springing and efflorescence of that age, impossible to grow
+again. They were the forest primeval; other trees may spring in their
+room, trees as mighty and as fair, but not such trees.
+
+So, as we rode along, our speculations and thoughts in the under current
+were back in the old world of tradition. While, on the other hand, for
+the upper current, we were keeping up a brisk conversation on the peace
+question, on the abolition of slavery, on the possibility of ignoring
+slave-grown produce, on Mr. Cobden and Mr. Bright, and, in fact, on all
+the most wide-awake topics of the present day.
+
+One little incident occurred upon the road. As we were passing by a
+quaint old mansion, which stood back from the road, surrounded by a deep
+court, Mr. S. said to me, "There is a friend here who would like to see
+thee, if thou hast no objections," and went on to inform me that she was
+an aged woman, who had taken a deep interest in the abolition of slavery
+since the time of its first inception under Clarkson and Wilberforce,
+though now lying very low on a sick bed. Of course we all expressed our
+willingness to stop, and the carriage was soon driving up the gravelled
+walk towards the house. We were ushered into a comfortable sitting room,
+which looked out on beautiful grounds, where the velvet grass, tall,
+dark trees, and a certain quaint air of antiquity in disposition and
+arrangement, gave me a singular kind of pleasure; the more so, that it
+came to me like a dream; that the house and the people were unknown to
+me, and the whole affair entirely unexpected.
+
+I was soon shown into a neat chamber, where an aged woman was lying in
+bed. I was very much struck and impressed by her manner of receiving me.
+With deep emotion and tears, she spoke of the solemnity and sacredness
+of the cause which had for years lain near her heart. There seemed to be
+something almost prophetic in the solemn strain of assurance with which
+she spoke of the final extinction of slavery throughout the world.
+
+I felt both pleased and sorrowful. I felt sorrowful because I knew, if
+all true Christians in America had the same feelings, that men, women,
+and children, for whom Christ died, would no more be sold in my country
+on the auction block.
+
+There have been those in America who have felt and prayed thus nobly and
+sincerely for the heathen in Burmah and Hindostan, and that sentiment
+was a beautiful and an ennobling one; but, alas! the number has been few
+who have felt and prayed for the heathenism, and shame of our own
+country; for the heathenism which sells the very members of the body of
+Christ as merchandise.
+
+When we were again on the road, we were talking on the change of times
+in England since railroads began; and Mr. S. gave an amusing description
+of how the old lords used to travel in state, with their coaches and
+horses, when they went up once a year on a solemn pilgrimage to London,
+with postilions and outriders, and all the country gaping and wondering
+after them.
+
+"I wonder," said one of us, "if Shakspeare were living, what he would
+say to our times, and what he would think of all the questions that are
+agitating the world now." That he did have thoughts whose roots ran far
+beyond the depth of the age in which he lived, is plain enough from
+numberless indications in his plays; but whether he would have taken any
+practical interest in the world's movements is a fair question. The
+poetic mind is not always the progressive one; it has, like moss and
+ivy, a need for something old to cling to and germinate upon. The
+artistic temperament, too, is soft and sensitive; so there are all these
+reasons for thinking that perhaps he would have been for keeping out of
+the way of the heat and dust of modern progress. It does not follow
+because a man has penetration to see an evil, he has energy to reform
+it.
+
+Erasmus saw all that Luther saw just as clearly, but he said that he had
+rather never have truth at all, than contend for it with the world in
+such a tumult. However, on the other hand, England did, in Milton, have
+one poet who girt himself up to the roughest and stormiest work of
+reformation; so it is not quite certain, after all, that Shakspeare
+might not have been a reformer in our times. One thing is quite certain,
+that he would have said very shrewd things about all the matters that
+move the world now, as he certainly did about all matters that he was
+cognizant of in his own day.
+
+It was a little before noon when we drove into Stratford, by which time,
+with our usual fatality in visiting poetic shrines, the day had melted
+off into a kind of drizzling mist, strongly suggestive of a downright
+rain. It is a common trick these English days have; the weather here
+seems to be possessed of a water spirit. This constant drizzle is good
+for ivies, and hawthorns, and ladies' complexions, as whoever travels
+here will observe, but it certainly is very bad for tourists.
+
+This Stratford is a small town, of between three and four thousand
+inhabitants, and has in it a good many quaint old houses, and is
+characterized (so I thought) by an air of respectable, stand-still, and
+meditative repose, which, I am afraid, will entirely give way before the
+railroad demon, for I understand that it is soon to be connected by the
+Oxford, Worcester, and Wolverhampton line with all parts of the kingdom.
+Just think of that black little screeching imp rushing through these
+fields which have inspired so many fancies; how every thing poetical
+will fly before it! Think of such sweet snatches as these set to the
+tune of a railroad whistle:--
+
+  "Hark! hark! the lark at heaven's gate sings,
+    And Phoebus 'gins to rise,
+  His steeds to water at those springs
+    On chaliced flowers that lies.
+
+  And winking Mary-buds begin
+    To ope their golden eyes,
+  With everything that pretty bid
+    My lady sweet to rise."
+
+And again:--
+
+  "Philomel with melody sing in our sweet lullaby,
+    Lulla, lulla, lullaby.
+  Never harm, nor spell, nor charm,
+    Come our lovely lady nigh."
+
+I suppose the meadows, with their "winking Mary-buds," will be all cut
+up into building lots in the good times coming, and Philomel caught and
+put in a cage to sing to tourists at threepence a head.
+
+We went to the White Lion, and soon had a little quiet parlor to
+ourselves, neatly carpeted, with a sofa drawn up to the cheerful coal
+fire, a good-toned piano, and in short every thing cheerful and
+comfortable.
+
+At first we thought we were too tired to do any thing till after dinner;
+we were going to take time to rest ourselves and proceed leisurely; so,
+while the cloth was laying, C---- took possession of the piano, and I of
+the sofa, till Mr. S. came in upon us, saying, "Why, Shakspeare's house
+is right the next door here!" Upon that we got up, just to take a peep,
+and from peeping we proceeded to looking, and finally put on our things
+and went over _seriatim_. The house has recently been bought by a
+Shakspearian club, who have taken upon themselves the restoration and
+preservation of the premises.
+
+Shakspeare's father, it seems, was a man of some position and substance
+in his day, being high sheriff and justice of the peace for the borough;
+and this house, therefore, I suppose, may be considered a specimen of
+the respectable class of houses in the times of Queen Elizabeth. This
+cut is taken from an old print, and is supposed to represent the
+original condition of the house.
+
+We saw a good many old houses somewhat similar to this on the road,
+particularly resembling it in this manner of plastering, which shows all
+the timber on the outside. Parts of the house have been sold, altered,
+and used for various purposes; a butcher's stall having been kept in a
+part of it, and a tavern in another portion, being new-fronted with
+brick.
+
+The object of this Shakspeare Club has been to repurchase all these
+parts, and restore them as nearly as possible to their primeval
+condition. The part of the house which is shown consists of a lower
+room, which is floored with flat stones very much broken. It has a wide,
+old-fashioned chimney on one side, and opens into a smaller room back of
+it. From thence you go up a rude flight of stairs to a low-studded room,
+with rough-plastered walls, where the poet was born.
+
+The prints of this room, which are generally sold, allow themselves in
+considerable poetic license, representing it in fact as quite an elegant
+apartment, whereas, though it is kept scrupulously neat and clean, the
+air of it is ancient and rude. This is a somewhat flattered likeness.
+The roughly-plastered walls are so covered with names that it seemed
+impossible to add another. The name of almost every modern genius, names
+of kings, princes, dukes, are shown here; and it is really curious to
+see by what devices some very insignificant personages have endeavored
+to make their own names conspicuous in the crowd. Generally speaking the
+inscription books and walls of distinguished places tend to give great
+force to the Vulgate rendering of Ecclesiastes i. 15, "The number of
+fools is infinite."
+
+To add a name in a private, modest way to walls already so crowded, is
+allowable; but to scrawl one's name, place of birth, and country, half
+across a wall, covering scores of names under it, is an operation which
+speaks for itself. No one would ever want to know more of a man than to
+see his name there and thus.
+
+Back of this room were some small bed rooms, and what interested me
+much, a staircase leading up into a dark garret. I could not but fancy I
+saw a bright-eyed, curly-headed boy creeping up those stairs, zealous to
+explore the mysteries of that dark garret. There perhaps he saw the cat,
+with "eyne of burning coal, crouching 'fore the mouse's hole." Doubtless
+in this old garret were wonderful mysteries to him, curious stores of
+old cast-off goods and furniture, and rats, and mice, and cobwebs. I
+fancied the indignation of some belligerent grandmother or aunt, who
+finds Willie up there watching a mouse hole, with the cat, and has him
+down straightway, grumbling that Mary did not govern that child better.
+
+We know nothing who this Mary was that was his mother; but one sometimes
+wonders where in that coarse age, when queens and ladies talked
+familiarly, as women would blush to talk now, and when the broad, coarse
+wit of the Merry Wives of Windsor was gotten up to suit the taste of a
+virgin queen,--one wonders, I say, when women were such and so, where he
+found those models of lily-like purity, women so chaste in soul and
+pure in language that they could not even bring their lips to utter a
+word of shame. Desdemona cannot even bring herself to speak the coarse
+word with which her husband taunts her; she cannot make herself believe
+that there are women in the world who could stoop-to such grossness.[L]
+
+For my part I cannot believe that, in such an age, such deep
+heart-knowledge of pure womanhood could have come otherwise than by the
+impression on the child's soul of a mother's purity. I seem to have a
+vision of one of those women whom the world knows not of, silent,
+deep-hearted, loving, whom the coarser and more practically efficient
+jostle aside and underrate for their want of interest in the noisy
+chitchat and commonplace of the day; but who yet have a sacred power,
+like that of the spirit of peace, to brood with dovelike wings over the
+childish heart, and quicken into life the struggling, slumbering
+elements of a sensitive nature.
+
+I cannot but think, in that beautiful scene, where he represents
+Desdemona as amazed and struck dumb with the grossness and brutality of
+the charges which had been thrown upon her, yet so dignified in the
+consciousness of her own purity, so magnanimous in the power of
+disinterested, forgiving love, that he was portraying no ideal
+excellence, but only reproducing, under fictitious and supposititious
+circumstances, the patience, magnanimity, and enduring love which had
+shone upon him in the household words and ways of his mother.
+
+It seemed to me that in that bare and lowly chamber I saw a vision of a
+lovely face which was the first beauty that dawned on those childish
+eyes, and heard that voice whose lullaby tuned his ear to an exquisite
+sense of cadence and rhythm. I fancied that, while she thus serenely
+shone upon, him like a benignant star, some rigorous grand-aunt took
+upon her the practical part of his guidance, chased up his wanderings to
+the right and left, scolded him for wanting to look out of the window
+because his little climbing toes left their mark on the neat wall, or
+rigorously arrested him when his curly head was seen bobbing off at the
+bottom of the street, following a bird, or a dog, or a showman;
+intercepting him in some happy hour when he was aiming to strike off on
+his own account to an adjoining field for "winking Mary-buds;" made long
+sermons to him on the wickedness of muddying his clothes and wetting his
+new shoes, (if he had any,) and told him that something dreadful would
+come out of the graveyard and catch him if he was not a better boy,
+imagining that if it were not for her bustling activity Willie would go
+straight to destruction.
+
+I seem, too, to have a kind of perception of Shakspeare's father; a
+quiet, God-fearing, thoughtful man, given to the reading of good books,
+avoiding quarrels with a most Christian-like fear, and with but small
+talent, either in the way of speech making or money getting; a man who
+wore his coat with an easy slouch, and who seldom knew where his money
+went to.
+
+All these things I seemed to perceive as if a sort of vision had
+radiated from the old walls; there seemed to be the rustling of garments
+and the sound of voices in the deserted rooms; the pattering of feet on
+the worm-eaten staircase; the light of still, shady summer afternoons, a
+hundred years ago, seemed to fall through the casements and lie upon the
+floor. There was an interest to every thing about the house, even to
+the quaint iron fastenings about the windows; because those might have
+arrested that child's attention, and been dwelt on in some dreamy hour
+of infant thought. The fires that once burned in those old chimneys, the
+fleeting sparks, the curling smoke, and glowing coals, all may have
+inspired their fancies. There is a strong tinge of household coloring in
+many parts of Shakspeare, imagery that could only have come from such
+habits of quiet, household contemplation. See, for example, this
+description of the stillness of the house, after all are gone to bed at
+night:--
+
+  "Now sleep yslaked hath the rout;
+  No din but snores, the house about,
+  Made louder by the o'er-fed breast
+  Of this most pompous marriage feast.
+  The cat, with, eyne of burning coal,
+  Now crouches 'fore the mouse's hole;
+  And, crickets sing at th' oven's mouth,
+  As the blither for their drouth."
+
+Also this description of the midnight capers of the fairies about the
+house, from Midsummer Night's Dream:--
+
+  PUCK.  "Now the hungry lion roars,
+           And the wolf behowls the moon;
+         Whilst the heavy ploughman snores,
+           All with, weary task fordone.
+         Now the wasted brands do glow,
+           Whilst the scritch-owl, scritching loud,
+         Puts the wretch, that lies in woe,
+           In remembrance of a shroud.
+         Now it is the time of night,
+           That the graves all gaping wide,
+         Every one lets forth his sprite,
+           In the churchway paths to glide:
+
+         And we fairies that do run
+           By the triple Hecate's team,
+         From the presence of the sun,
+           Following darkness like a dream,
+         Now are frolic; not a mouse
+         Shall disturb this hallowed house:
+         I am sent with, broom, before,
+         To sweep the dust behind the door.
+
+  OBE.   Through this house give glimmering light,
+           By the dead and drowsy fire:
+         Every elf, and fairy sprite,
+           Hop as light as bird, from brier;
+         And this ditty after me
+         Sing, and dance it trippingly."
+
+By the by, one cannot but be struck with the resemblance, in the spirit
+and coloring of these lines, to those very similar ones in the Penseroso
+of Milton:--
+
+  "Far from all resort of mirth,
+  Save the cricket on the hearth,
+  Or the bellman's drowsy charm,
+  To bless the doors from nightly harm;
+  While glowing embers, through the room,
+  Teach light to counterfeit a gloom."
+
+I have often noticed how much the first writings of Milton resemble in
+their imagery and tone of coloring those of Shakspeare, particularly in
+the phraseology and manner of describing flowers. I think, were a
+certain number of passages from Lycidas and Comus interspersed with a
+certain number from Midsummer Night's Dream, the imagery, tone of
+thought, and style of coloring, would be found so nearly identical, that
+it would be difficult for one not perfectly familiar to distinguish
+them. You may try it.
+
+That Milton read and admired Shakspeare is evident from his allusion to
+him in L'Allegro. It is evident, however, that Milton's taste had been
+so formed by the Greek models, that he was not entirely aware of all
+that was in Shakspeare; he speaks of him as a sweet, fanciful warbler,
+and it is exactly in sweetness and fancifulness that he seems to have
+derived benefit from him. In his earlier poems, Milton seems, like
+Shakspeare, to have let his mind run freely, as a brook warbles over
+many-colored pebbles; whereas in his great poem he built after models.
+Had he known as little Latin and Greek as Shakspeare, the world, instead
+of seeing a well-arranged imitation of the ancient epics from his pen,
+would have seen inaugurated a new order of poetry.
+
+An unequalled artist, who should build after the model of a Grecian
+temple, would doubtless produce a splendid and effective building,
+because a certain originality always inheres in genius, even when
+copying; but far greater were it to invent an entirely new style of
+architecture, as different as the Gothic from the Grecian. This merit
+was Shakspeare's. He was a superb Gothic poet; Milton, a magnificent
+imitator of old forms, which by his genius were wrought almost into the
+energy of new productions.
+
+I think Shakspeare is to Milton precisely what Gothic architecture is to
+Grecian, or rather to the warmest, most vitalized reproductions of the
+Grecian; there is in Milton a calm, severe majesty, a graceful and
+polished inflorescence of ornament, that produces, as you look upon it,
+a serene, long, strong ground-swell of admiration and approval. Yet
+there is a cold unity of expression, that calls into exercise only the
+very highest range of our faculties: there is none of that wreathed
+involution of smiles and tears, of solemn earnestness and quaint
+conceits; those sudden uprushings of grand and magnificent sentiment,
+like the flame-pointed arches of cathedrals; those ranges of fancy, half
+goblin, half human; those complications of dizzy magnificence with fairy
+lightness; those streamings of many-colored light; those carvings
+wherein every natural object is faithfully reproduced, yet combined into
+a kind of enchantment: the union of all these is in Shakspeare, and not
+in Milton. Milton had one most glorious phase of humanity in its
+perfection; Shakspeare had all united; from the "deep and dreadful"
+sub-bass of the organ to the most aerial warbling of its highest key,
+not a stop or pipe was wanting.
+
+But, in fine, at the end of all this we went back to our hotel to
+dinner. After dinner we set out to see the church. Even Walter Scott has
+not a more poetic monument than this church, standing as it does amid
+old, embowering trees, on the beautiful banks of the Avon. A soft, still
+rain was falling on the leaves of the linden trees, as we walked up the
+avenue to the church. Even rainy though it was, I noticed that many
+little birds would occasionally break out into song. In the event of
+such a phenomenon as a bright day, I think there must be quite a jubilee
+of birds here, even as he sung who lies below:--
+
+  "The ousel-cock, so black of hue,
+   With orange-tawny bill,
+  The throstle with his note so true,
+   The wren with little quill;
+  The finch, the sparrow, and the lark,
+   The plain-song cuckoo gray."
+
+The church has been carefully restored inside, so that it is now in
+excellent preservation, and Shakspeare lies buried under a broad, flat
+stone in the chancel. I had full often read, and knew by heart, the
+inscription on this stone; but somehow, when I came and stood over it,
+and read it, it affected me as if there were an emanation from the grave
+beneath. I have often wondered at that inscription, that a mind so
+sensitive, that had thought so much, and expressed thought with such
+startling power on all the mysteries of death, the grave, and the future
+world, should have found nothing else to inscribe on his own grave but
+this:--
+
+  Good Friend for Iesus SAKE forbare
+  To digg T-E Dust EncloAsed HERe
+  Blese be T-E Man T spares T-Es Stones
+                   Y
+  And curst be He T moves my Bones
+                  Y
+
+It seems that the inscription has not been without its use, in averting
+what the sensitive poet most dreaded; for it is recorded in one of the
+books sold here, that some years ago, in digging a neighboring grave, a
+careless sexton broke into the side of Shakspeare's tomb, and looking in
+saw his bones, and could easily have carried away the skull had he not
+been deterred by the imprecation.
+
+There is a monument in the side of the wall, which has a bust of
+Shakspeare upon it, said to be the most authentic likeness, and supposed
+to have been taken by a cast from his face after death. This statement
+was made to us by the guide who showed it, and he stated that Chantrey
+had come to that conclusion by a minute examination of the face. He took
+us into a room, where was an exact plaster cast of the bust, on which he
+pointed out various little minutiae on which this idea was founded. The
+two sides of the face are not alike; there is a falling in and
+depression of the muscles on one side which does not exist on the other,
+such as probably would never have occurred in a fancy bust, where the
+effort always is to render the two sides of the face as much alike as
+possible. There is more fulness about the lower part of the face than is
+consistent with the theory of an idealized bust, but is perfectly
+consistent with the probabilities of the time of life at which he died,
+and perhaps with the effects of the disease of which he died.
+
+All this I set down as it was related to me by our guide; it had a very
+plausible and probable sound, and I was bent on believing, which is a
+great matter in faith of all kinds.
+
+It is something in favor of the supposition that this is an authentic
+likeness, that it was erected in his own native town within seven years
+of his death, among people, therefore, who must have preserved the
+recollection of his personal appearance. After the manner of those times
+it was originally painted, the hair and beard of an auburn color, the
+eyes hazel, and the dress was represented as consisting of a scarlet
+doublet, over which was a loose black gown without sleeves; all which
+looks like an attempt to preserve an exact likeness. The inscription
+upon it, also, seemed to show that there were some in the world by no
+means unaware of who and what he was.
+
+Next to the tomb of Shakspeare in the chancel is buried his favorite
+daughter, over whom somebody has placed the following quaint
+inscription:--
+
+  "Witty above her sex, but that's not all,
+  Wise to salvation was good Mistress Hall.
+  Something of Shakspeare was in that, but this
+  Wholly of him, with whom she is now in bliss;
+  Then, passenger, hast ne'er a tear,
+  To weep with her that wept with, all--
+  That wept, yet set herself to cheer
+  Them, up with comfort's cordial?
+  Her lore shall live, her mercy spread,
+  When thou hast ne'er a tear to shed."
+
+This good Mistress Hall, it appears, was Shakspeare's favorite among his
+three children. His son, Hamet, died at twelve years of age. His
+daughter Judith, as appears from some curious document still extant,
+could not write her own name, but signed with her mark; so that the
+"wit" of the family must have concentrated itself in Mistress Hall. To
+her, in his last will, which is still extant, Shakspeare bequeathed an
+amount of houses, lands, plate, jewels, and other valuables, sufficient
+to constitute quite a handsome estate. It would appear, from this, that
+the poet deemed her not only "wise unto salvation," but wise in her day
+and generation, thus intrusting her with the bulk of his worldly goods.
+
+His wife, Ann Hathaway, is buried near by, under the same pavement. From
+the slight notice taken of her in the poet's will, it would appear that
+there was little love between them. He married her when he was but
+eighteen; most likely she was a mere rustic beauty, entirely incapable
+either of appreciating or adapting herself to that wide and wonderful
+mind in its full development.
+
+As to Mistress Hall, though the estate was carefully entailed, through
+her, to heirs male through all generations, it was not her good fortune
+to become the mother of a long line, for she had only one daughter, who
+became Lady Barnard, and in whom, dying childless, the family became
+extinct. Shakspeare, like Scott, seems to have had the desire to
+perpetuate himself by founding a family with an estate, and the
+coincidence in the result is striking. Genius must be its own monument.
+
+After we had explored the church we went out to walk about the place. We
+crossed the beautiful bridge over the Avon, and thought how lovely those
+fields and meadows would look, if they only had sunshine to set them
+out. Then we went to the town hall, where we met the mayor, who had
+kindly called and offered to show us the place.
+
+It seems, in 1768, that Garrick set himself to work in good earnest to
+do honor to Shakspeare's memory, by getting up a public demonstration at
+Stratford; and the world, through the talents of this actor, having
+become alive and enthusiastic, liberal subscriptions were made by the
+nobility and gentry, the town hall was handsomely repaired and adorned,
+and a statue of Shakspeare, presented by Garrick, was placed in a niche
+at one end. Then all the chief men and mighty men of the nation came and
+testified their reverence for the poet, by having a general jubilee. A
+great tent was spread on the banks of the Avon, where they made speeches
+and drank wine, and wound up all with a great dance in the town hall;
+and so the manes of Shakspeare were appeased, and his position settled
+for all generations. The room in the town hall is a very handsome one,
+and has pictures of Garrick, and the other notables who figured on that
+occasion.
+
+After that we were taken to see New Place. "And what is New Place?" you
+say; "the house where Shakspeare lived?" Not exactly; but a house built
+where his house was. This drawing is taken from an old print, and is
+supposed to represent the house as Shakspeare fitted it up.
+
+We went out into what was Shakspeare's garden, where we were shown his
+mulberry--not the one that he planted though, but a veritable mulberry
+planted on the same spot; and then we went back to our hotel very tired,
+but having conscientiously performed every jot and tittle of the duty of
+good pilgrims.
+
+As we sat, in the drizzly evening, over our comfortable tea table, C----
+ventured to intimate pretty decidedly that he considered the whole thing
+a bore; whereat I thought I saw a sly twinkle around the eyes and mouth
+of our most Christian and patient friend, Joseph Sturge. Mr. S.
+laughingly told him that he thought it the greatest exercise of
+Christian tolerance, that he should have trailed round in the mud with
+us all day in our sightseeing, bearing with our unreasonable raptures.
+He smiled, and said, quietly, "I must confess that I was a little
+pleased that our friend Harriet was so zealous to see Shakspeare's
+house, when it wasn't his house, and so earnest to get sprigs from his
+mulberry, when it wasn't his mulberry." We were quite ready to allow the
+foolishness of the thing, and join the laugh at our own expense.
+
+As to our bed rooms, you must know that all the apartments in this house
+are named after different plays of Shakspeare, the name being printed
+conspicuously over each door; so that the choosing of our rooms made us
+a little sport.
+
+"What rooms will you have, gentlemen?" says the pretty chamber maid.
+
+"Rooms," said Mr. S.; "why, what are there to have?"
+
+"Well, there's Richard III., and there's Hamlet," says the girl.
+
+"O, Hamlet, by all means," said I; "that was always my favorite. Can't
+sleep in Richard III., we should have such bad dreams."
+
+"For my part," said C----, "I want All's well that ends well."
+
+"I think," said the chamber maid, hesitating, "the bed in Hamlet isn't
+large enough for two. Richard III. is a very nice room, sir."
+
+In fact, it became evident that we were foreordained to Richard; so we
+resolved to embrace the modern historical view of this subject, which
+will before long turn him out a saint, and not be afraid of the muster
+roll of ghosts which Shakspeare represented as infesting his apartment.
+
+Well, for a wonder, the next morning arose a genuine sunny, beautiful
+day. Let the fact be recorded that such things do sometimes occur even
+in England. C---- was mollified, and began to recant his ill-natured
+heresies of the night before, and went so far as to walk, out of his own
+proper motion, to Ann Hathaway's Cottage before breakfast--he being one
+of the brethren described by Longfellow,
+
+  "Who is gifted with most miraculous powers
+  Of getting up at all sorts of hours;"
+
+and therefore he came in to breakfast table with that serenity of
+virtuous composure which generally attends those who have been out
+enjoying the beauties of nature while their neighbors have been
+ingloriously dozing.
+
+The walk, he said, was beautiful; the cottage damp, musty, and fusty;
+and a supposititious old bedstead, of the age of Queen Elizabeth, which
+had been obtruded upon his notice because it _might_ have belonged to
+Ann Hathaway's mother, received a special malediction. For my part, my
+relic-hunting propensities were not in the slightest degree appeased,
+but rather stimulated, by the investigations of the day before.
+
+It seemed to me so singular that of such a man there should not remain
+one accredited relic! Of Martin Luther, though he lived much earlier,
+how many things remain! Of almost any distinguished character how much
+more is known than of Shakspeare! There is not, so far as I can
+discover, an authentic relic of any thing belonging to him. There are
+very few anecdotes of his sayings or doings; no letters, no private
+memoranda, that should let us into the secret of what he was personally
+who has in turns personated all minds. The very perfection of his
+dramatic talent has become an impenetrable veil: we can no more tell
+from his writings what were his predominant tastes and habits than we
+can discriminate among the variety of melodies what are the native notes
+of the mocking bird. The only means left us for forming an opinion of
+what he was personally are inferences of the most delicate nature from,
+the slightest premises.
+
+The common idea which has pervaded the world, of a joyous, roving,
+somewhat unsettled, and dissipated character, would seem, from many
+well-authenticated facts, to be incorrect. The gayeties and dissipations
+of his life seem to have been confined to his very earliest days, and to
+have been the exuberance of a most extraordinary vitality, bursting into
+existence with such force and vivacity that it had not had time to
+collect itself, and so come to self-knowledge and control. By many
+accounts it would appear that the character he sustained in the last
+years of his life was that of a judicious, common-sense sort of man; a
+discreet, reputable, and religious householder.
+
+The inscription on his tomb is worthy of remark, as indicating the
+reputation he bore at the time: "_Judicio Pylium, genio Socratem, arte
+Maronem_" (In judgment a Nestor, in genius a Socrates, in art a
+Virgil.)
+
+The comparison of him in the first place to Nestor, proverbially famous
+for practical judgment and virtue of life, next to Socrates, who was a
+kind of Greek combination of Dr. Paley and Dr. Franklin, indicates a
+very different impression of him from what would generally be expressed
+of a poet, certainly what would not have been placed on the grave of an
+eccentric, erratic will-o'-the-wisp genius, however distinguished.
+Moreover, the pious author of good Mistress Hall's epitaph records the
+fact of her being "wise to salvation," as a more especial point of
+resemblance to her father than even her being "witty above her sex," and
+expresses most confident hope of her being with him in bliss. The
+Puritan tone of the epitaph, as well as the quality of the verse, gives
+reason to suppose that it was not written by one who was seduced into a
+tombstone lie by any superfluity of poetic sympathy.
+
+The last will of Shakspeare, written by his own hand and still
+preserved, shows several things of the man.
+
+The introduction is as follows:--
+
+"In the name of God. Amen. I, William Shakspeare, at
+Stratford-upon-Avon, in the county of Warwick, gentleman, in perfect
+health and memory, (God be praised,) do make and ordain this my last
+will and testament in manner and form following; that is to say,--
+
+"First, I commend my soul into the hands of God my Creator, hoping, and
+assuredly believing, through the only merits of Jesus Christ, my Savior,
+to be made partaker of life everlasting; and my body to the earth,
+whereof it is made."
+
+The will then goes on to dispose of an amount of houses, lands, plate,
+money, jewels, &c., which showed certainly that the poet had possessed
+some worldly skill and thrift in accumulation, and to divide them with
+a care and accuracy which would indicate that he was by no means of that
+dreamy and unpractical habit of mind which cares not what becomes of
+worldly goods.
+
+We may also infer something of a man's character from the tone and
+sentiments of others towards him. Glass of a certain color casts on
+surrounding objects a reflection of its own hue, and so the tint of a
+man's character returns upon us in the habitual manner in which he is
+spoken of by those around him. The common mode of speaking of Shakspeare
+always savored of endearment. "Gentle Will" is an expression that seemed
+oftenest repeated. Ben Jonson inscribed his funeral verses "To the
+Memory of _my beloved_ Mr. William Shakspeare;" he calls him the "sweet
+swan of Avon." Again, in his lines under a bust of Shakspeare, he
+says,--
+
+  "The figure that thou seest put,
+  It was for gentle Shakspeare cut."
+
+In later times Milton, who could have known him only by tradition, calls
+him "my Shakspeare," "dear son of memory," and "sweetest Shakspeare."
+Now, nobody ever wrote of sweet John Milton, or gentle John Milton, or
+gentle Martin Luther, or even sweet Ben Jonson.
+
+Rowe says of Shakspeare, "The latter part of his life was spent, as all
+men of good sense would wish theirs may be, in ease, retirement, and the
+conversation of his friends. His pleasurable wit and good nature engaged
+him in the acquaintance, and entitled him to the friendship, of the
+gentlemen of the neighborhood." And Dr. Drake says, "He was high in
+reputation as a poet, favored by the great and the accomplished, and
+beloved by all who knew him."
+
+That Shakspeare had religious principle, I infer not merely from the
+indications of his will and tombstone, but from those strong evidences
+of the working of the religious element which are scattered through his
+plays. No man could have a clearer perception of God's authority and
+man's duty; no one has expressed more forcibly the strength of God's
+government, the spirituality of his requirements, or shown with more
+fearful power the struggles of the "law in the members warring against
+the law of the mind."
+
+These evidences, scattered through his plays, of deep religious
+struggles, make probable the idea that, in the latter, thoughtful, and
+tranquil years of his life, devotional impulses might have settled into
+habits, and that the solemn language of his will, in which he professes
+his faith, in Christ, was not a mere form. Probably he had all his life,
+even in his gayest hours, more real religious principle than the
+hilarity of his manner would give reason to suppose. I always fancy he
+was thinking of himself when he wrote this character: "For the man doth
+fear God, howsoever it seem not in him by reason of some large jests he
+doth make."
+
+Neither is there any foundation for the impression that he was
+undervalued in his own times. No literary man of his day had more
+success, more flattering attentions from the great, or reaped more of
+the substantial fruits of popularity, in the form of worldly goods.
+While his contemporary, Ben Jonson, sick in a miserable alley, is forced
+to beg, and receives but a wretched pittance from Charles I.,
+Shakspeare's fortune steadily increases from year to year. He buys the
+best place in his native town, and fits it up with great taste; he
+offered to lend, on proper security, a sum of money for the use of the
+town of Stratford; he added to his estate in Stratford a hundred and
+seventy acres of land; he bought half the great and small tithes of
+Stratford; and his annual income is estimated to have been what would at
+the present time be nearly four thousand dollars.
+
+Queen Elizabeth also patronized him after her ordinary fashion of
+patronizing literary men,--that is to say, she expressed her gracious
+pleasure that he should burn incense to her, and pay his own bills:
+economy was not one of the least of the royal graces. The Earl of
+Southampton patronized him in a more material fashion.
+
+Queen Elizabeth even so far condescended to the poet as to perform
+certain hoidenish tricks while he was playing on the stage, to see if
+she could not disconcert his speaking by the majesty of her royal
+presence. The poet, who was performing the part of King Henry IV., took
+no notice of her motions, till, in order to bring him to a crisis, she
+dropped her glove at his feet; whereat he picked it up, and presented it
+her, improvising these two lines, as if they had been a part of the
+play:--
+
+  "And though, now bent on this high embassy,
+  Yet stoop we to take up our cousin's glove."
+
+I think this anecdote very characteristic of them both; it seems to me
+it shows that the poet did not so absolutely crawl in the dust before
+her, as did almost all the so called men of her court; though he did
+certainly flatter her after a fashion in which few queens can be
+flattered. His description of the belligerent old Gorgon as the "Fair
+Vestal throned by the West" seems like the poetry and fancy of the
+beautiful Fairy Queen wasted upon the half-brute clown:--
+
+  "Come, sit thee down upon this flowery bed,
+    While I thy amiable cheeks do coy,
+  And stick musk roses in thy sleek, smooth, head,
+    And kiss thy fair, large ears, my gentle joy."
+
+Elizabeth's understanding and appreciation of Shakspeare was much after
+the fashion of Nick Bottom's of the Fairy Queen. I cannot but believe
+that the men of genius who employed their powers in celebrating this
+most repulsive and disagreeable woman must sometimes have comforted
+themselves by a good laugh in private.
+
+In order to appreciate Shakspeare's mind from his plays, we must
+discriminate what expressed the gross tastes of his age, and what he
+wrote to please himself. The Merry Wives of Windsor was a specimen of
+what he wrote for the "Fair Vestal;" a commentary on the delicacy of her
+maiden meditations. The Midsummer Night's Dream he wrote from his own
+inner dream world.
+
+In the morning we took leave of our hotel. In leaving we were much
+touched with the simple kindliness of the people of the house. The
+landlady and her daughters came to bid us farewell, with much feeling;
+and the former begged my acceptance of a bead purse, knit by one of her
+daughters, she said, during the winter evenings while they were reading
+Uncle Tom. In this town one finds the simple-hearted, kindly English
+people corresponding to the same class which we see in our retired New
+England towns. We received many marks of kindness from different
+residents in Stratford; in the expression of them, they appreciated and
+entered into our desire for privacy with a delicacy which touched us
+sensibly.
+
+We had little time to look about us to see Stratford in the sunshine. So
+we went over to a place on the banks of the Avon, where, it was said, we
+could gain a very perfect view of the church. The remembrance of this
+spot is to me like a very pleasant dream. The day was bright, the air
+was soft and still, as we walked up and down the alleys of a beautiful
+garden that extended quite to the church; the rooks were dreamily
+cawing, and wheeling in dark, airy circles round the old buttresses and
+spire. A funeral train had come into the graveyard, and the passing bell
+was tolling. A thousand undefined emotions struggled in my mind.
+
+That loving heart, that active fancy, that subtile, elastic power of
+appreciating and expressing all phases, all passions of humanity, are
+they breathed out on the wind? are they spent like the lightning? are
+they exhaled like the breath of flowers? or are they still living, still
+active? and if so, where and how? Is it reserved for us, in that
+"undiscovered country" which he spoke of, ever to meet the great souls
+whose breath has kindled our souls?
+
+I think we forget the consequences of our own belief in immortality, and
+look on the ranks of prostrate dead as a mower on fields of prostrate
+flowers, forgetting that activity is an essential of souls, and that
+every soul which has passed away from this world must ever since have
+been actively developing those habits of mind and modes of feeling which
+it began here.
+
+The haughty, cruel, selfish Elizabeth, and all the great men of her
+court, are still living and acting somewhere; but where? For my part I
+am often reminded, when dwelling on departed genius, of Luther's
+ejaculation for his favorite classic poet: "I hope God will have mercy
+on such."
+
+We speak of the glory of God as exhibited in natural landscape making;
+what is it, compared with the glory of God as shown in the making of
+souls, especially those souls which seem to be endowed with a creative
+power like his own?
+
+There seems, strictly speaking, to be only two classes of souls--the
+creative and the receptive. Now, these creators seem to me to have a
+beauty and a worth about them entirely independent of their moral
+character. That ethereal power which shows itself in Greek sculpture and
+Gothic architecture, in Rubens, Shakspeare, and Mozart, has a quality to
+me inexpressibly admirable and lovable. We may say, it is true, that
+there is no moral excellence in it; but none the less do we admire it.
+God has made us so that we cannot help loving it; our souls go forth to
+it with an infinite longing, nor can that longing be condemned. That
+mystic quality that exists in these souls is a glimpse and intimation of
+what exists in Him in full perfection. If we remember this we shall not
+lose ourselves in admiration of worldly genius, but be led by it to a
+better understanding of what He is, of whom all the glories of poetry
+and art are but symbols and shadows.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+
+DEAR H.:--
+
+From Stratford we drove to Warwick, (or "Warrick," as they call it
+here.) This town stands on a rocky hill on the banks of the Avon, and is
+quite a considerable place, for it returns two members to Parliament,
+and has upwards of ten thousand inhabitants; and also has some famous
+manufactories of wool combing and spinning. But what we came to see was
+the castle. We drove up to the Warwick Arms, which is the principal
+hotel in the place; and, finding that we were within the hours appointed
+for exhibition, we went immediately.
+
+With my head in a kind of historical mist, full of images of York and
+Lancaster, and Red and White Roses, and Warwick the king maker, I looked
+up to the towers and battlements of the old castle. We went in through a
+passage way cut in solid rock, about twenty feet deep, and I should
+think fifty long. These walls were entirely covered with ivy, hanging
+down like green streamers; gentle and peaceable pennons these are,
+waving and whispering that the old war times are gone.
+
+At the end of this passage there is a drawbridge over what was formerly
+the moat, but which is now grassed and planted with shrubbery. Up over
+our heads we saw the great iron teeth of the portcullis. A rusty old
+giant it seemed up there, like Pope and Pagan in Pilgrim's Progress,
+finding no scope for himself in these peaceable times.
+
+When we came fairly into the court yard of the castle, a scene of
+magnificent beauty opened before us. I cannot describe it minutely. The
+principal features are the battlements, towers, and turrets of the old
+feudal castle, encompassed by grounds on which has been expended all
+that princely art of landscape gardening for which England is
+famous--leafy thickets, magnificent trees, openings, and vistas of
+verdure, and wide sweeps of grass, short, thick, and vividly green, as
+the velvet moss we sometimes see growing on rocks in New England. Grass
+is an art and a science in England--it is an institution. The pains that
+are taken in sowing, tending, cutting, clipping, rolling, and otherwise
+nursing and coaxing it, being seconded by the misty breath and often
+falling tears of the climate, produce results which must be seen to be
+appreciated.
+
+So again of trees in England. Trees here are an order of nobility; and
+they wear their crowns right kingly. A few years ago, when Miss Sedgwick
+was in this country, while admiring some splendid trees in a nobleman's
+park, a lady standing by said to her encouragingly, "O, well, I suppose
+your trees in America will be grown up after a while!" Since that time
+another style of thinking of America has come up, and the remark that I
+most generally hear made is, "O, I suppose we cannot think of showing
+you any thing in the way of trees, coming as you do from America!"
+Throwing out of account, however, the gigantic growth of our western
+river bottoms, where I have seen sycamore trunks twenty feet in
+diameter--leaving out of account, I say, all this mammoth arboria, these
+English parks have trees as fine and as effective, of their kind, as any
+of ours; and when I say their trees are an order of nobility, I mean
+that they pay a reverence to them such as their magnificence deserves.
+Such elms as adorn the streets of New Haven, or overarch the meadows of
+Andover, would in England be considered as of a value which no money
+could represent; no pains, no expense would be spared to preserve their
+life and health; they would never be shot dead by having gas pipes laid
+under them, as they have been in some of our New England towns; or
+suffered to be devoured by canker worms for want of any amount of money
+spent in their defence.
+
+Some of the finest trees in this place are magnificent cedars of
+Lebanon, which bring to mind the expression in Psalms, "Excellent as the
+cedars." They are the very impersonation of kingly majesty, and are
+fitted to grace the old feudal stronghold of Warwick the king maker.
+These trees, standing as they do amid magnificent sweeps and undulations
+of lawn, throwing out their mighty arms with such majestic breadth and
+freedom of outline, are themselves a living, growing, historical epic.
+Their seed was brought from Holy Land in the old days of the crusades;
+and a hundred legends might be made up of the time, date, and occasion
+of their planting. These crusades have left their mark every where
+through Europe, from the cross panel on the doors of common houses to
+the oriental touches and arabesques of castles and cathedrals.
+
+In the reign of Stephen there was a certain Roger de Newburg, second
+Earl of Warwick, who appears to have been an exceedingly active and
+public-spirited character; and, besides conquering part of Wales,
+founded in this neighborhood various priories and hospitals, among which
+was the house of the Templars, and a hospital for lepers. He made
+several pilgrimages to Holy Land; and so I think it as likely as most
+theories that he ought to have the credit of these cedars.
+
+These Earls of Warwick appear always to have been remarkably stirring
+men in their day and generation, and foremost in whatever was going on
+in the world, whether political or religious. To begin, there was Guy,
+Earl of Warwick, who lived somewhere in the times of the old
+dispensation, before King Arthur, and who distinguished himself,
+according to the fashion of those days, by killing giants and various
+colored dragons, among which a green one especially figures. It appears
+that he slew also a notable dun cow, of a kind of mastodon breed, which
+prevailed in those early days, which was making great havoc in the
+neighborhood. In later times, when the giants, dragons, and other
+animals of that sort were somewhat brought under, we find the Earls of
+Warwick equally busy burning and slaying to the right and left; now
+crusading into Palestine, and now fighting the French, who were a
+standing resort for activity when nothing else was to be done; with
+great versatility diversifying these affairs with pilgrimages to the
+holy sepulchre, and founding monasteries and hospitals. One stout earl,
+after going to Palestine and laying about him like a very dragon for
+some years, brought home a live Saracen king to London, and had him
+baptized and made a Christian of, _vi et armis_.
+
+During the scuffle of the Roses, it was a Warwick, of course, who was
+uppermost. Stout old Richard, the king maker, set up first one party and
+then the other, according to his own sovereign pleasure, and showed as
+much talent at fighting on both sides, and keeping the country in an
+uproar, as the modern politicians of America.
+
+When the times of the Long Parliament and the Commonwealth came, an Earl
+of Warwick was high admiral of England, and fought valiantly for the
+Commonwealth, using the navy on the popular side; and his grandson
+married the youngest daughter of Oliver Cromwell. When the royal family
+was to be restored, an Earl of Warwick was one of the six lords who were
+sent to Holland for Charles II. The earls of this family have been no
+less distinguished for movements which have favored the advance of
+civilization and letters than for energy in the battle field. In the
+reign of Queen Elizabeth an Earl of Warwick founded the History Lecture
+at Cambridge, and left a salary for the professor. This same earl was
+general patron of letters and arts, assisting many men of talents, and
+was a particular and intimate friend of Sir Philip Sidney.
+
+What more especially concerns us as New Englanders is, that an earl of
+this house was the powerful patron and protector of New England during
+the earlier years of our country. This was Robert Greville, the high
+admiral of England before alluded to, and ever looked upon as a
+protector of the Puritans. Frequent allusion is made to him in
+Winthrop's Journal as performing various good offices for them.
+
+The first grant of Connecticut was made to this earl, and by him
+assigned to Lord Say and Seal, and Lord Brooke. The patronage which this
+earl extended to the Puritans is more remarkable because in principle he
+was favorable to Episcopacy. It appears to have been prompted by a
+chivalrous sense of justice; probably the same which influenced old Guy
+of Warwick in the King Arthur times, of whom the ancient chronicler
+says, "This worshipful knight, in his acts of warre, ever consydered
+what parties had wronge, and therto would he drawe."
+
+The present earl has never taken a share in public or political life,
+but resided entirely on his estate, devoting himself to the improvement
+of his ground and tenants. He received the estate much embarrassed, and
+the condition of the tenantry was at that time quite depressed. By the
+devotion of his life it has been rendered one of the most flourishing
+and prosperous estates in this part of England. I have heard him spoken
+of as a very exemplary, excellent man. He is now quite advanced, and has
+been for some time in failing health. He sent our party a very kind and
+obliging message, desiring that we would consider ourselves fully at
+liberty to visit any part of the grounds or castle, there being always
+some reservation as to what tourists may visit.
+
+We caught glimpses of him once or twice, supported by attendants, as he
+was taking the air in one of the walks of the grounds, and afterwards
+wheeled about in a garden chair.
+
+The family has thrice died out in the direct line, and been obliged to
+resuscitate through collateral branches; but it seems the blood holds
+good notwithstanding. As to honors there is scarcely a possible
+distinction in the state or army that has not at one time or other been
+the property of this family.
+
+Under the shade of these lofty cedars they have sprung and fallen, an
+hereditary line of princes. One cannot but feel, in looking on these
+majestic trees, with the battlements, turrets, and towers of the old
+castle every where surrounding him, and the magnificent parks and lawns
+opening through dreamy vistas of trees into what seems immeasurable
+distance, the force of the soliloquy which Shakspeare puts into the
+mouth of the dying old king maker, as he lies breathing out his soul in
+the dust and blood of the battle field:--
+
+  "Thus yields the cedar to the axe's edge,
+  Whose arms gave shelter to the princely eagle,
+  Under whose shade the rampant lion slept;
+  Whose top branch overpeered Jove's spreading tree,
+  And kept low shrubs from, winter's powerful wind.
+  These eyes, that now are dimmed with death's black veil,
+  Have been as piercing as the midday sun
+  To search, the secret treasons of the world:
+  The wrinkles in my brow, now filled with blood,
+  Were likened oft to kingly sepulchres;
+  For who lived king but I could dig his grave?
+  And who durst smile when Warwick bent his brow?
+  Lo, now my glory smeared in dust and blood!
+  My parks, my walks, my manors that I had,
+  Even now forsake me; and of all my lands
+  Is nothing left me but my body's length!
+  Why, what is pomp, rule, reign, but earth and dust?
+  And live we how we can, yet die we must."
+
+During Shakspeare's life Warwick was in the possession of Greville, the
+friend of Sir Philip Sidney, and patron of arts and letters. It is not,
+therefore, improbable that Shakspeare might, in his times, often have
+been admitted to wander through the magnificent grounds, and it is more
+than probable that the sight of these majestic cedars might have
+suggested the noble image in this soliloquy. It is only about eight
+miles from Stratford, within the fair limits of a comfortable pedestrian
+excursion, and certainly could not but have been an object of deep
+interest to such a mind as his.
+
+I have described the grounds first, but, in fact, we did not look at
+them first, but went into the house where we saw not only all the state
+rooms, but, through the kindness of the noble proprietor, many of those
+which are not commonly exhibited; a bewildering display of magnificent
+apartments, pictures, gems, vases, arms and armor, antiques, all, in
+short, that the wealth of a princely and powerful family had for
+centuries been accumulating.
+
+The great hall of the castle is sixty-two feet in length and forty in
+breadth, ornamented with a richly carved Gothic roof, in which figures
+largely the family cognizance of the bear and ragged staff. There is a
+succession of shields, on which are emblazoned the quarterings of
+successive Earls of Warwick. The sides of the wall are ornamented with
+lances, corselets, shields, helmets, and complete suits of armor,
+regularly arranged as in an armory. Here I learned what the buff coat
+is, which had so often puzzled me in reading Scott's descriptions, as
+there were several hanging up here. It seemed to be a loose doublet of
+chamois leather, which was worn under the armor, and protected the body
+from its harshness.
+
+Here we saw the helmet of Cromwell, a most venerable relic. Before the
+great, cavernous fireplace was piled up on a sled a quantity of yew tree
+wood. The rude simplicity of thus arranging it on the polished floor of
+this magnificent apartment struck me as quite singular. I suppose it is
+a continuation of some ancient custom.
+
+Opening from this apartment on either side are suits of rooms, the whole
+series being three hundred and thirty-three feet in length. These rooms
+are all hung with pictures, and studded with antiques and curiosities of
+immense value. There is, first, the red drawing room, and then the cedar
+drawing room, then the gilt drawing room, the state bed room, the
+boudoir, &c., &c., hung with pictures by Vandyke, Rubens, Guido, Sir
+Joshua Reynolds, Paul Veronese, any one of which would require days of
+study; of course, the casual glance that one could give them in a rapid
+survey would not amount to much.
+
+We were shown one table of gems and lapis lazuli, which cost what would
+be reckoned a comfortable fortune in New England. For matters of this
+kind I have little sympathy. The canvas, made vivid by the soul of an
+inspired artist, tells me something of God's power in creating that
+soul; but a table of gems is in no wise interesting to me, except so far
+as it is pretty in itself.
+
+I walked to one of the windows of these lordly apartments, and while the
+company were examining buhl cabinets, and all other deliciousness of the
+place, I looked down the old gray walls into the amber waters of the
+Avon, which flows at their base, and thought that the most beautiful of
+all was without. There is a tiny fall that crosses the river just above
+here, whose waters turn the wheels of an old mossy mill, where for
+centuries the family grain has been ground. The river winds away through
+the beautiful parks and undulating foliage, its soft, grassy banks
+dotted here and there with sheep and cattle, and you catch farewell
+gleams and glitters of it as it loses itself among the trees.
+
+Gray moss, wall flowers, ivy, and grass were growing here and there out
+of crevices in the castle walls, as I looked down, sometimes trailing
+their rippling tendrils in the river. This vegetative propensity of
+walls is one of the chief graces of these old buildings.
+
+In the state bed room were a bed and furnishings of rich, crimson
+velvet, once belonging to Queen Anne, and presented by George III. to
+the Warwick family. The walls are hung with Brussels tapestry,
+representing the gardens of Versailles as they were at the time. The
+chimney-piece, which is sculptured of verde antique and white marble,
+supports two black marble vases on its mantel. Over the mantel-piece is
+a full-length portrait of Queen Anne, in a rich brocade dress, wearing
+the collar and jewels of the Garter, bearing in one hand a sceptre, and
+in the other a globe. There are two splendid buhl cabinets in the room,
+and a table of costly stone from Italy; it is mounted on a richly carved
+and gilt stand.
+
+The boudoir, which adjoins, is hung with pea-green satin and velvet. In
+this room is one of the most authentic portraits of Henry VIII., by
+Holbein, in which that selfish, brutal, unfeeling tyrant is veritably
+set forth, with all the gold and gems which, in his day, blinded
+mankind; his fat, white hands were beautifully painted. Men have found
+out Henry VIII. by this time; he is a dead sinner, and nothing more is
+to be expected of him, and so he gets a just award; but the disposition
+which bows down and worships any thing of any character in our day which
+is splendid and successful, and excuses all moral delinquencies, if they
+are only available, is not a whit better than that which cringed before
+Henry.
+
+In the same room was a boar hunt, by Rubens, a disagreeable subject, but
+wrought with wonderful power. There were several other pictures of
+Holbein's in this room; one of Martin Luther.
+
+We passed through a long corridor, whose sides were lined with pictures,
+statues, busts, &c. Out of the multitude, three particularly interested
+me; one was a noble but melancholy bust of the Black Prince, beautifully
+chiselled in white marble; another was a plaster cast, said to have been
+taken of the face of Oliver Cromwell immediately after death. The face
+had a homely strength amounting almost to coarseness. The evidences of
+its genuineness appear in glancing at it; every thing is authentic, even
+to the wart on his lip; no one would have imagined such a one, but the
+expression was noble and peaceful, bringing to mind the oft-quoted
+words,--
+
+  "After life's fitful fever, he sleeps well."
+
+At the end of the same corridor is a splendid picture of Charles I. on
+horseback, by Vandyke, a most masterly performance, and appearing in its
+position almost like a reality. Poor Charles had rather hard measure, it
+always seemed to me. He simply did as all other princes had done before
+him; that is to say, he lied steadily, invariably, and conscientiously,
+in every instance where he thought he could gain any thing by it, just
+as Charles V., and Francis IV., and Catharine de Medicis, and Henry
+VIII., and Elizabeth, and James, and all good royal folks had always
+done; and lo! _he_ must lose his head for it. His was altogether a more
+gentlemanly and respectable performance than that of Henry, not wanting
+in a sort of ideal magnificence, which his brutal predecessor, or even
+his shambling old father never dreamed of. But so it is; it is not
+always on those who are sinners above all men that the tower of Siloam
+falls, but only on those who happen to be under it when its time comes.
+So I intend to cherish a little partiality for gentlemanly, magnificent
+Charles I.; and certainly one could get no more splendid idea of him
+than by seeing him stately, silent, and melancholy on his white horse,
+at the end of this long corridor. There he sits, facing the calm, stony,
+sleeping face of Oliver, and neither question or reply passes between
+them.
+
+From this corridor we went into the chapel, whose Gothic windows, filled
+with rich, old painted glass, cast a many-colored light over the
+oak-carved walls and altar-piece. The ceiling is of fine, old oak,
+wrought with the arms of the family. The window over the altar is the
+gift of the Earl of Essex. This room is devoted to the daily religious
+worship of the family. It has been the custom of the present earl in
+former years to conduct the devotions of the family here himself.
+
+About this time my head and eyes came to that point which Solomon
+intimates to be not commonly arrived at by mortals--when the eye is
+satisfied with seeing. I remember a confused ramble through apartment
+after apartment, but not a single thing in them, except two pictures of
+Salvator Rosa's, which I thought extremely ugly, and was told, as people
+always are when they make such declarations, that the difficulty was
+entirely in myself, and that if I would study them two or three months
+in faith, I should perceive something very astonishing. This may be, but
+it holds equally good of the coals of an evening fire, or the sparks on
+a chimney back; in either of which, by resolute looking, and some
+imagination, one can see any thing he chooses. I utterly distrust this
+process, by which old black pictures are looked into shape; but then I
+have nothing to lose, being in the court of the Gentiles in these
+matters, and obstinately determined not to believe in any real presence
+in art which I cannot perceive by my senses.
+
+After having examined all the upper stories, we went down into the
+vaults underneath--vaults once grim and hoary, terrible to captives and
+feudal enemies, now devoted to no purpose more grim than that of coal
+cellars and wine vaults. In Oliver's time, a regiment was quartered
+there: they are extensive enough, apparently, for an army.
+
+The kitchen and its adjuncts are of magnificent dimensions, and indicate
+an amplitude in the way of provision for good cheer worthy an ancient
+house; and what struck me as a still better feature was a library of
+sound, sensible, historical, and religious works for the servants.
+
+We went into the beer vaults, where a man drew beer into a long black
+jack, such as Scott describes. It is a tankard, made of black leather, I
+should think half a yard deep. He drew the beer from a large hogshead,
+and offered us some in a glass. It looked very clear, but, on tasting, I
+found it so exceedingly bitter that it struck me there would be small
+virtue for me in abstinence.
+
+In passing up to go out of the house, we met in the entry two
+pleasant-looking young women, dressed in white muslin. As they passed
+us, a door opened where a table was handsomely set out, at which quite a
+number of well-dressed people were seating themselves. I withdrew my
+eyes immediately, fearing lest I had violated some privacy. Our
+conductor said to us, "That is the upper servants' dining room."
+
+Once in the yard again, we went to see some of the older parts of the
+building. The oldest of these, Caesar's Tower, which is said to go back
+to the time of the Romans, is not now shown to visitors. Beneath it is a
+dark, damp dungeon, where prisoners used to be confined, the walls of
+which are traced all over with inscriptions and rude drawings.
+
+Then you are conducted to Guy's Tower, named, I suppose, after the hero
+of the green dragon and dun cow. Here are five tiers of guard rooms, and
+by the ascent of a hundred and thirty-three steps you reach the
+battlements, where you gain a view of the whole court and grounds, as
+well as of the beautiful surrounding landscape.
+
+In coming down from this tower, we somehow or other got upon the
+ramparts, which connect it with the great gate. We walked on the wall
+four abreast, and played that we were knights and ladies of the olden
+time, walking on the ramparts. And I picked a bough from an old pine
+tree that grew over our heads; it much resembled our American yellow
+pitch pine.
+
+Then we went down and crossed the grounds to the greenhouse, to see the
+famous Warwick vase. The greenhouse is built with a Gothic stone front,
+situated on a fine point in the landscape. And there, on a pedestal,
+surrounded by all manner of flowering shrubs, stands this celebrated
+antique. It is of white marble, and was found at the bottom of a lake
+near Adrian's villa, in Italy. They say that it holds a hundred and
+thirty-six gallons; constructed, I suppose, in the roistering old
+drinking times of the Roman emperors, when men seem to have discovered
+that the grand object for which they were sent into existence was to
+perform the functions of wine skins. It is beautifully sculptured with
+grape leaves, and the skin and claws of the panther--these latter
+certainly not an inappropriate emblem of the god of wine, beautiful, but
+dangerous.
+
+Well, now it was all done. Merodach Baladan had not a more perfect
+_exposé_ of the riches of Hezekiah than we had of the glories of
+Warwick. One always likes to see the most perfect thing of its kind; and
+probably this is the most perfect specimen of the feudal ages yet
+remaining in England.
+
+As I stood with Joseph Sturge under the old cedars of Lebanon, and
+watched the multitude of tourists, and parties of pleasure, who were
+thronging the walks, I said to him, "After all, this establishment
+amounts to a public museum and pleasure grounds for the use of the
+people." He assented. "And," said I, "you English people like these
+things; you like these old magnificent seats, kept up by old families."
+"That is what I tell them," said Joseph Sturge. "I tell them there is no
+danger in enlarging the suffrage, for the people would not break up
+these old establishments if they could." On that point, of course, I had
+no means of forming an opinion.
+
+One cannot view an institution so unlike any thing we have in our own
+country without having many reflections excited, for one of these
+estates may justly be called an institution; it includes within itself
+all the influence on a community of a great model farm, of model
+housekeeping, of a general museum of historic remains, and of a gallery
+of fine arts.
+
+It is a fact that all these establishments through England are, at
+certain fixed hours, thrown open for the inspection of whoever may
+choose to visit them, with no other expense than the gratuity which
+custom requires to be given to the servant who shows them. I noticed, as
+we passed from one part of the ground to another, that our guides
+changed--one part apparently being the perquisite of one servant, and
+one of another. Many of the servants who showed them appeared to be
+superannuated men, who probably had this post as one of the dignities
+and perquisites of their old age.
+
+The influence of these estates on the community cannot but be in many
+respects beneficial, and should go some way to qualify the prejudice
+with which republicans are apt to contemplate any thing aristocratic;
+for although the legal title to these things inheres in but one man, yet
+in a very important sense they belong to the whole community, indeed, to
+universal humanity. It may be very undesirable and unwise to wish to
+imitate these institutions in America, and yet it may be illiberal to
+undervalue them as they stand in England. A man would not build a house,
+in this nineteenth century, on the pattern of a feudal castle; and yet
+where the feudal castle is built, surely its antique grace might plead
+somewhat in its favor, and it may be better to accommodate it to modern
+uses, than to level it, and erect a modern mansion in its place.
+
+Nor, since the world is wide, and now being rapidly united by steam into
+one country, does the objection to these things, on account of the room
+they take up, seem so great as formerly. In the million of square miles
+of the globe there is room enough for all sorts of things.
+
+With such reflections the lover of the picturesque may comfort himself,
+hoping that he is not sinning against the useful in his admiration of
+the beautiful.
+
+One great achievement of the millennium, I trust, will be in uniting
+these two elements, which have ever been contending. There was great
+significance in the old Greek fable which represented Venus as the
+divinely-appointed helpmeet of Vulcan, and yet always quarrelling with
+him.
+
+We can scarce look at the struggling, earth-bound condition of useful
+labor through the world without joining in the beautiful aspiration of
+our American poet,--
+
+  "Surely, the wiser time shall come
+     When this fine overplus of might,
+  No longer sullen, slow, and dumb,
+    Shall leap to music and to light.
+
+  In that new childhood of the world
+    Life of itself shall dance and play,
+  Fresh blood through Time's shrunk veins be hurled,
+    And labor meet delight half way."[M]
+
+In the new state of society which we are trying to found in America, it
+must be our effort to hasten the consummation. These great estates of
+old countries may keep it for their share of the matter to work out
+perfect models, while we will seize the ideas thus elaborated, and make
+them the property of the million.
+
+As we were going out, we stopped a little while at the porter's lodge to
+look at some relics.
+
+Now, I dare say that you have been thinking, all the while, that these
+stories about the wonderful Guy are a sheer fabrication, or, to use a
+convenient modern term, a myth. Know, then, that the identical armor
+belonging to him is still preserved here; to wit, the sword, about
+seven feet long, a shield, helmet, breastplate, and tilting pole,
+together with his porridge pot, which holds one hundred and twenty
+gallons, and a large fork, as they call it, about three feet long; I am
+inclined to think this must have been his toothpick! His sword weighs
+twenty pounds.
+
+There is, moreover, a rib of the mastodon cow which he killed, hung up
+for the terror of all refractory beasts of that name in modern days.
+
+Furthermore, know, then, that there are authentic documents in the
+Ashmolean Museum, at Oxford, showing that the family run back to within
+four years after the birth of Christ, so that there is abundance of time
+for them to have done a little of almost every thing. It appears that
+they have been always addicted to exploits, since we read of one of
+them, soon after the Christian era, encountering a giant, who ran upon
+him with a tree which he had snapped off for the purpose, for it seems
+giants were not nice in the choice of weapons; but the chronicler says,
+"The Lord had grace with him, and overcame the giant," and in
+commemoration of this event the family introduced into their arms the
+ragged staff.
+
+It is recorded of another of the race, that he was one of seven children
+born at a birth, and that all the rest of his brothers and sisters were,
+by enchantment, turned into swans with gold collars. This remarkable
+case occurred in the time of the grandfather of Sir Guy, and of course,
+if we believe this, we shall find no difficulty in the case of the cow,
+or any thing else.
+
+There is a very scarce book in the possession of a gentleman of Warwick,
+written by one Dr. John Kay, or caius, in which he gives an account of
+the rare and peculiar animals of England in 1552. In this he mentioned
+seeing the bones of the head and the vertebrae of the neck of an
+enormous animal at Warwick Castle. He states that the shoulder blade was
+hung up by chains from the north gate of Coventry, and that a rib of the
+same animal was hanging up in the chapel of Guy, Earl of Warwick, and
+that the people fancied it to be the rib of a cow which haunted a ditch
+near Coventry, and did injury to many persons; and he goes on to imagine
+that this may be the bone of a bonasus or a urus. He says, "It is
+probable many animals of this kind formerly lived in our England, being
+of old an island full of woods and forests, because even in our boyhood
+the horns of these animals were in common use at the table." The story
+of Sir Guy is furthermore quite romantic, and contains some
+circumstances very instructive to all ladies. For the chronicler
+asserts, "that Dame Felye, daughter and heire to Erle Rohand, for her
+beauty called Fely le Belle, or Felys the Fayre, by true enheritance,
+was Countesse of Warwyke, and lady and wyfe to the most victoriouse
+Knight, Sir Guy, to whom in his woing tyme she made greate straungeres,
+and caused him, for her sake, to put himself in meny greate distresses,
+dangers, and perills; but when they were wedded, and b'en but a little
+season together, he departed from her, to her greate hevynes, and never
+was conversant with her after, to her understandinge." That this may not
+appear to be the result of any revengeful spirit on the part of Sir Guy,
+the chronicler goes on further to state his motives--that, after his
+marriage, considering what he had done for a woman's sake, he thought to
+spend the other part of his life for God's sake, and so departed from
+his lady in pilgrim weeds, which raiment he kept to his life's end.
+After wandering about a good many years he settled in a hermitage, in a
+place not far from the castle, called Guy's Cliff, and when his lady
+distributed food to beggars at the castle gate, was in the habit of
+coming among them to receive alms, without making himself known to her.
+It states, moreover, that two days before his death an angel informed
+him of the time of his departure, and that his lady would die a
+fortnight after him, which happening accordingly, they were both buried
+in the grave together. A romantic cavern, at the place called Guy's
+Cliff, is shown as the dwelling of the recluse. The story is a curious
+relic of the religious ideas of the times.
+
+On our way from the castle we passed by Guy's Cliff, which is at present
+the seat of the Hon. C.B. Percy. The establishment looked beautifully
+from the road, as we saw it up a long avenue of trees; it is one of the
+places travellers generally examine, but as we were bound for Kenilworth
+we were content to take it on trust. It is but a short drive from there
+to Kenilworth. We got there about the middle of the afternoon.
+Kenilworth has been quite as extensive as Warwick, though now entirely
+gone to ruins. I believe Oliver Cromwell's army have the credit of
+finally dismantling it. Cromwell seems literally to have left his mark
+on his generation, for I never saw a ruin in England when I did not hear
+that he had something to do with it. Every broken arch and ruined
+battlement seemed always to find a sufficient account of itself by
+simply enunciating the word Cromwell. And when we see how much the
+Puritans arrayed against themselves all the æsthetic principles of our
+nature, we can somewhat pardon those who did not look deeper than the
+surface, for the prejudice with which they regarded the whole movement;
+a movement, however, of which we, and all which is most precious to us,
+are the lineal descendants and heirs.
+
+We wandered over the ruins, which are very extensive, and which Scott,
+with his usual vivacity and accuracy, has restored and repeopled. We
+climbed up into Amy Robsart's chamber; we scrambled into one of the
+arched windows of what was formerly the great dining hall, where
+Elizabeth feasted in the midst of her lords and ladies, and where every
+stone had rung to the sound of merriment and revelry. The windows are
+broken out; it is roofless and floorless, waving and rustling with
+pendent ivy, and vocal with the song of hundreds of little birds.
+
+We wandered from room to room, looking up and seeing in the walls the
+desolate fireplaces, tier over tier, the places where the beams of the
+floors had gone into the walls, and still the birds continued their
+singing every where.
+
+Nothing affected me more than this ceaseless singing and rejoicing of
+birds in these old gray ruins. They seemed so perfectly joyous and happy
+amid the desolations, so airy and fanciful in their bursts of song, so
+ignorant and careless of the deep meaning of the gray desolation around
+them, that I could not but be moved. It was nothing to them how these
+stately, sculptured walls became lonely and ruinous, and all the weight
+of a thousand thoughts and questionings which arise to us is never even
+dreamed by them. They sow not, neither do they reap, but their heavenly
+Father feeds them; and so the wilderness and the desolate place is glad
+in them, and they are glad in the wilderness and desolate place.
+
+It was a beautiful conception, this making of birds. Shelley calls them
+"imbodied joys;" and Christ says, that amid the vaster ruins of man's
+desolation, ruins more dreadfully suggestive than those of sculptured
+frieze and architrave, we can yet live a bird's life of unanxious joy;
+or, as Martin Luther beautifully paraphrases it, "We can be like a bird,
+that sits singing on his twig and lets God think for him."
+
+The deep consciousness that we are ourselves ruined, and that this world
+is a desolation more awful, and of more sublime material, and wrought
+from stuff of higher temper than ever was sculptured in hall or
+cathedral, this it must be that touches such deep springs of sympathy in
+the presence of ruins. We, too, are desolate, shattered, and scathed;
+there are traceries and columns of celestial workmanship; there are
+heaven-aspiring arches, splendid colonnades and halls, but fragmentary
+all. Yet above us bends an all-pitying Heaven, and spiritual voices and
+callings in our hearts, like these little singing birds, speak of a time
+when almighty power shall take pleasure in these stones, and favor the
+dust thereof.
+
+We sat on the top of the strong tower, and looked off into the country,
+and talked a good while. Some of the ivy that mantles this building has
+a trunk as large as a man's body, and throws out numberless strong arms,
+which, interweaving, embrace and interlace half-falling towers, and hold
+them up in a living, growing mass of green.
+
+The walls of one of the oldest towers are sixteen feet thick. The lake,
+which Scott speaks of, is dried up and grown over with rushes. The
+former moat presents only a grassy hollow. What was formerly a gate
+house is still inhabited by the family who have the care of the
+building. The land around the gate house is choicely and carefully laid
+out, and has high, clipped hedges of a species of variegated holly.
+
+Thus much of old castles and ivy. Farewell to Kenilworth.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+
+MY DEAR H.:--
+
+After leaving Kenilworth we drove to Coventry, where we took the cars
+again. This whole ride from Stratford to Warwick, and on to Coventry,
+answers more to my ideas of old England than any thing I have seen; it
+is considered one of the most beautiful parts of the kingdom. It has
+quaint old houses, and a certain air of rural, picturesque quiet, which
+is very charming.
+
+Coventry is old and queer, with narrow streets and curious houses, famed
+for the ancient legend of Godiva, one of those beautiful myths that
+grow, like the mistletoe, on the bare branches of history, and which, if
+they never were true in the letter, have been a thousand times true in
+the spirit.
+
+The evening came on raw and chilly, so that we rejoiced to find
+ourselves once more in the curtained parlor by the bright, sociable
+fire.
+
+As we were drinking tea Elihu Burritt came in. It was the first time I
+had ever seen him, though I had heard a great deal of him from our
+friends in Edinburgh. He is a man in middle life, tall and slender, with
+fair complexion, blue eyes, an air of delicacy and refinement, and
+manners of great gentleness. My ideas of the "Learned Blacksmith" had
+been of something altogether more ponderous and peremptory. Elihu has
+been, for some years, operating in England and on the continent in a
+movement which many, in our half-Christianized times, regard with as
+much incredulity as the grim, old, warlike barons did the suspicious
+imbecilities of reading and writing. The sword now, as then, seems so
+much more direct a way to terminate controversies, that many Christian
+men, even, cannot conceive how the world is to get along without it.
+
+Burritt's mode of operation has been by the silent organization of
+circles of ladies in all the different towns of the United Kingdom, who
+raise a certain sum for the diffusion of the principles of peace on
+earth and good will to men. Articles, setting forth the evils of war,
+moral, political, and social, being prepared, these circles pay for
+their insertion in all the principal newspapers of the continent. They
+have secured to themselves in this way a continual utterance in France,
+Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, and Germany; so that from week to
+week, and month to month, they can insert articles upon these subjects.
+Many times the editors insert the articles as editorial, which still
+further favors their design. In addition to this, the ladies of these
+circles in England correspond with the ladies of similar circles
+existing in other countries; and in this way there is a mutual
+kindliness of feeling established through these countries.
+
+When recently war was threatening between England and France, through
+the influence of these societies conciliatory addresses were sent from
+many of the principal towns of England to many of the principal towns of
+France; and the effect of these measures in allaying irritation and
+agitation was very perceptible.
+
+Furthermore, these societies are preparing numerous little books for
+children, in which the principles of peace, kindness, and mutual
+forbearance are constantly set forth, and the evil and unchristian
+nature of the mere collision of brute force exemplified in a thousand
+ways. These tracts also are reprinted in the other modern languages of
+Europe, and are becoming a part of family literature.
+
+The object had in view by those in this movement is, the general
+disbandment of standing armies and warlike establishments, and the
+arrangement, in their place, of some settled system of national
+arbitration. They suggest the organization of some tribunal of
+international law, which shall correspond to the position of the Supreme
+Court of the United States with reference to the several states. The
+fact that the several states of our Union, though each a distinct
+sovereignty, yet agree in this arrangement, is held up as an instance of
+its practicability. These ideas are not to be considered entirely
+chimerical, if we reflect that commerce and trade are as essentially
+opposed to war as is Christianity. War is the death of commerce,
+manufactures, agriculture, and the fine arts. Its evil results are
+always certain and definite, its good results scattered and accidental.
+The whole current of modern society is as much against war as against
+slavery; and the time must certainly come when some more rational and
+humane mode of resolving national difficulties will prevail.
+
+When we ask these reformers how people are to be freed from the yoke of
+despotism without war, they answer, "By the diffusion of ideas among the
+masses--by teaching the bayonets to think." They say, "If we convince
+every individual soldier of a despot's army that war is ruinous,
+immoral, and unchristian, we take the instrument out of the tyrant's
+hand. If each individual man would refuse to rob and murder for the
+Emperor of Austria, and the Emperor of Russia, where would be their
+power to hold Hungary? What gave power to the masses in the French
+revolution, but that the army, pervaded by new ideas, refused any
+longer to keep the people down?"
+
+These views are daily gaining strength in England. They are supported by
+the whole body of the Quakers, who maintain them with that degree of
+inflexible perseverance and never-dying activity which have rendered the
+benevolent actions of that body so efficient. The object that they are
+aiming at is one most certain to be accomplished, infallible as the
+prediction that swords are to be beaten into ploughshares, and spears
+into pruning-hooks, and that nations shall learn war no more.
+
+This movement, small and despised in its origin, has gained strength
+from year to year, and now has an effect on the public opinion of
+England which is quite perceptible.
+
+We spent the evening in talking over these things, and also various
+topics relating to the antislavery movement. Mr. Sturge was very
+confident that something more was to be done than had ever been done
+yet, by combinations for the encouragement of free, in the place of
+slave-grown, produce; a question which has, ever since the days of
+Clarkson, more or less deeply occupied the minds of abolitionists in
+England.
+
+I should say that Mr. Sturge in his family has for many years
+conscientiously forborne the use of any article produced by slave labor.
+I could scarcely believe it possible that there could be such an
+abundance and variety of all that is comfortable and desirable in the
+various departments of household living within these limits. Mr. Sturge
+presents the subject with very great force, the more so from the
+consistency of his example.
+
+From what I have since observed, as well as from what they said, I
+should imagine that the Quakers generally pursue this course of entire
+separation from all connection with slavery, even in the disuse of its
+products. The subject of the disuse of slave-grown produce has obtained
+currency in the same sphere in which Elihu Burritt operates, and has
+excited the attention of the Olive Leaf Circles. Its prospects are not
+so weak as on first view might be imagined, if we consider that Great
+Britain has large tracts of cotton-growing land at her disposal in
+India. It has been calculated that, were suitable railroads and
+arrangements for transportation provided for India, cotton could be
+raised in that empire sufficient for the whole wants of England, at a
+rate much cheaper than it can be imported from America. Not only so, but
+they could then afford to furnish cotton cheaper at Lowell than the same
+article could be procured from the Southern States.
+
+It is consolatory to know that a set of men have undertaken this work
+whose perseverance in any thing once begun has never been daunted. Slave
+labor is becoming every year more expensive in America. The wide market
+which has been opened for it has raised it to such an extravagant price
+as makes the stocking of a plantation almost ruinous. If England enters
+the race with free labor, which has none of these expenses, and none of
+the risk, she will be sure to succeed. All the forces of nature go with
+free labor; and all the forces of nature resist slave labor. The stars
+in their courses fight against it; and it cannot but be that ere long
+some way will be found to bring these two forces to a decisive issue.
+
+Mr. Sturge seemed exceedingly anxious that the American states should
+adopt the theory of immediate, and not gradual, emancipation. I told him
+the great difficulty was to persuade them to think of any emancipation
+at all; that the present disposition was to treat slavery as the pillar
+and ground of the truth, the ark of religion, the summary of morals,
+and the only true millennial form of modern society.
+
+He gave me, however, a little account of their antislavery struggles in
+England, and said, what was well worthy of note, that they made no
+apparent progress in affecting public opinion until they firmly
+advocated the right of every innocent being to immediate and complete
+freedom, without any conditions. He said that a woman is fairly entitled
+to the credit of this suggestion. Elizabeth Heyrick of Leicester, a
+member of the society of Friends, published a pamphlet entitled
+Immediate, not Gradual Emancipation. This little pamphlet contains much
+good sense; and, being put forth at a time when men were really anxious
+to know the truth, produced a powerful impression.
+
+She remarked, very sensibly, that the difficulty had arisen from
+indistinct ideas in respect to what is implied in emancipation. She went
+on to show that emancipation did not imply freedom from government and
+restraint; that it properly brought a slave under the control of the
+law, instead of that of an individual; and that it was possible so to
+apply law as perfectly to control the emancipated. This is an idea which
+seems simple enough when pointed out; but men often stumble a long while
+before they discover what is most obvious.
+
+The next day was Sunday; and, in order to preserve our incognito, and
+secure an uninterrupted rest, free from conversation and excitement, we
+were obliged to deprive ourselves of the pleasure of hearing our friend
+Rev. John Angell James, which we had much desired to do.
+
+It was a warm, pleasant day, and we spent much of our time in a
+beautiful arbor constructed in a retired place in the garden, where the
+trees and shrubbery were so arranged as to make a most charming retreat.
+
+The grounds of Mr. Sturge are very near to those of his brother--only a
+narrow road interposing between them. They have contrived to make them
+one by building under this road a subterranean passage, so that the two
+families can pass and repass into each other's grounds in perfect
+privacy.
+
+These English gardens delight me much; they unite variety, quaintness,
+and an imitation of the wildness of nature with the utmost care and
+cultivation. I was particularly pleased with the rockwork, which at
+times formed the walls of certain walks, the hollows and interstices of
+which were filled with every variety of creeping plants. Mr. Sturge told
+me that the substance of which these rockeries are made is sold
+expressly for the purpose.
+
+On one side of the grounds was an old-fashioned cottage, which one of my
+friends informed me Mr. Sturge formerly kept fitted up as a water cure
+hospital, for those whose means did not allow them to go to larger
+establishments. The plan was afterwards abandoned. One must see that
+such an enterprise would have many practical difficulties.
+
+At noon we dined in the house of the other brother, Mr. Edmund Sturge.
+Here I noticed a full-length engraving of Joseph Sturge. He is
+represented as standing with his hand placed protectingly on the head of
+a black child.
+
+We enjoyed our quiet season with these two families exceedingly. We
+seemed to feel ourselves in an atmosphere where all was peace and good
+will to man. The little children, after dinner, took us through the
+walks, to show us their beautiful rabbits and other pets. Every thing
+seemed in order, peaceable and quiet. Towards evening we went back
+through the arched passage to the other house again. My Sunday here has
+always seemed to me a pleasant kind of pastoral, much like the communion
+of Christian and Faithful with the shepherds on the Delectable
+Mountains.
+
+What is remarkable of all these Friends is, that, although they have
+been called, in the prosecution of philanthropic enterprises, to
+encounter so much opposition, and see so much of the unfavorable side of
+human nature, they are so habitually free from any tinge of
+uncharitableness or evil speaking in their statements with regard to the
+character and motives of others. There is also an habitual avoidance of
+all exaggerated forms of statement, a sobriety of diction, which, united
+with great affectionateness of manner, inspires the warmest confidence.
+
+C. had been, with Mr. Sturge, during the afternoon, to a meeting of the
+Friends, and heard a discourse from Sibyl Jones, one of the most popular
+of their female preachers. Sibyl is a native of the town of Brunswick,
+in the State of Maine. She and her husband, being both preachers, have
+travelled extensively in the prosecution of various philanthropic and
+religious enterprises.
+
+In the evening Mr. Sturge said that she had expressed a desire to see
+me. Accordingly I went with him to call upon her, and found her in the
+family of two aged Friends, surrounded by a circle of the same
+denomination. She is a woman of great delicacy of appearance, betokening
+very frail health. I am told that she is most of her time in a state of
+extreme suffering from neuralgic complaints. There was a mingled
+expression of enthusiasm and tenderness in her face which was very
+interesting. She had had, according to the language of her sect, a
+concern upon her mind for me.
+
+To my mind there is something peculiarly interesting about that
+primitive simplicity and frankness with which the members of this body
+express themselves. She desired to caution me against the temptations of
+too much flattery and applause, and against the worldliness which might
+beset me in London. Her manner of addressing me was like one who is
+commissioned with a message which must be spoken with plainness and
+sincerity. After this the whole circle kneeled, and she offered prayer.
+I was somewhat painfully impressed with her evident fragility of body,
+compared with the enthusiastic workings of her mind.
+
+In the course of the conversation she inquired if I was going to
+Ireland. I told her, yes, that was my intention. She begged that I would
+visit the western coast, adding, with great feeling, "It was the
+miseries which I saw there which have brought my health to the state it
+is." She had travelled extensively in the Southern States, and had, in
+private conversation, been able very fully to bear her witness against
+slavery, and had never been heard with unkindness.
+
+The whole incident afforded me matter for reflection. The calling of
+women to distinct religious vocations, it appears to me, was a part of
+primitive Christianity; has been one of the most efficient elements of
+power in the Romish church; obtained among the Methodists in England;
+and has, in all these cases, been productive of great good. The
+deaconesses whom the apostle mentions with honor in his epistle, Madame
+Guyon in the Romish church, Mrs. Fletcher, Elizabeth Fry, are instances
+which show how much may be done for mankind by women who feel themselves
+impelled to a special religious vocation.
+
+The Bible, which always favors liberal development, countenances this
+idea, by the instances of Deborah, Anna the prophetess, and by allusions
+in the New Testament, which plainly show that the prophetic gift
+descended upon women. St. Peter, quoting from the prophetic writings,
+says, "Upon your sons and upon your daughters I will pour out my spirit,
+and they shall prophesy." And St. Paul alludes to women praying and
+prophesying in the public assemblies of the Christians, and only enjoins
+that it should be done with becoming attention to the established usages
+of female delicacy. The example of the Quakers is a sufficient proof
+that acting upon this idea does not produce discord and domestic
+disorder. No class of people are more remarkable for quietness and
+propriety of deportment, and for household order and domestic
+excellence. By the admission of this liberty, the world is now and then
+gifted with a woman like Elizabeth Fry, while the family state loses
+none of its security and sacredness. No one in our day can charge the
+ladies of the Quaker sect with boldness or indecorum; and they have
+demonstrated that even public teaching, when performed under the
+influence of an overpowering devotional spirit, does not interfere with
+feminine propriety and modesty.
+
+The fact is, that the number of women to whom this vocation is given
+will always be comparatively few: they are, and generally will be,
+exceptions; and the majority of the religious world, ancient and modern,
+has decided that these exceptions are to be treated with reverence.
+
+The next morning, as we were sitting down to breakfast, our friends of
+the other house sent in to me a plate of the largest, finest
+strawberries I have ever seen, which, considering that it was only the
+latter part of April, seemed to me quite an astonishing luxury.
+
+On the morning before we left we had agreed to meet a circle of friends
+from Birmingham, consisting of the Abolition Society there, which is of
+long standing, extending back in its memories to the very commencement
+of the agitation under Clarkson and Wilberforce. It was a pleasant
+morning, the 1st of May. The windows of the parlor were opened to the
+ground; and the company invited filled not only the room, but stood in a
+crowd on the grass around the window. Among the peaceable company
+present was an admiral in the navy, a fine, cheerful old gentleman, who
+entered with hearty interest into the scene.
+
+The lady secretary of the society read a neatly-written address, full of
+kind feeling and Christian sentiment. Joseph Sturge made a few sensible
+and practical remarks on the present aspects of the antislavery cause in
+the world, and the most practical mode of assisting it among English
+Christians. He dwelt particularly on the encouragement of free labor.
+The Rev. John Angell James followed with some extremely kind and
+interesting remarks, and Mr. S. replied. As we were intending to return
+to this city to make a longer visit, we felt that this interview was but
+a glimpse of friends whom we hoped to know more perfectly hereafter.
+
+A throng of friends accompanied us to the depot. We had the pleasure of
+the company of Elihu Burritt, and enjoyed a delightful run to London,
+where we arrived towards evening.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+
+DEAR SISTER:--
+
+At the station house in London, we found Rev. Messrs. Binney and Sherman
+waiting for us with carriages. C. went with Mr. Sherman, and Mr. S. and
+I soon found ourselves in a charming retreat called Rose Cottage, in
+Walworth, about which I will tell you more anon. Mrs. B. received us
+with every attention which the most thoughtful hospitality could
+suggest.
+
+S. and W., who had gone on before us, and taken lodgings very near, were
+there waiting to receive us. One of the first things S. said to me,
+after we got into our room, was, "O, H----, we are so glad you have
+come, for we are all going to the lord mayor's dinner to night, and you
+are invited."
+
+"What!" said I, "the lord mayor of London, that I used to read about in
+Whittington and his Cat?" And immediately there came to my ears the
+sound of the old chime, which made so powerful an impression on my
+childish memory, wherein all the bells of London were represented as
+tolling.
+
+  "Turn again, Whittington,
+   Thrice lord mayor of London."
+
+It is curious what an influence these old rhymes have on our
+associations.
+
+S. went on to tell me that the party was the annual dinner given to the
+judges of England by the lord mayor, and that there we should see the
+whole English bar, and hosts of _distingués_ besides. So, though I was
+tired, I hurried to dress in all the glee of meeting an adventure, as
+Mr. and Mrs. B. and the rest of the party were ready. Crack went the
+whip, round went the wheels, and away we drove.
+
+We alighted at the Mansion House, and entered a large illuminated hall,
+supported by pillars. Chandeliers were glittering, servants with
+powdered heads and gold lace coats were hurrying to and fro in every
+direction, receiving company and announcing names. Do you want to know
+how announcing is done? Well, suppose a staircase, a hall, and two or
+three corridors, intervening between you and the drawing room. At all
+convenient distances on this route are stationed these grave,
+powdered-headed gentlemen, with their embroidered coats. You walk up to
+the first one, and tell him confidentially that you are Miss Smith. He
+calls to the man on the first landing, "Miss Smith." The man on the
+landing says to the man in the corridor, "Miss Smith." The man in the
+corridor shouts to the man at the drawing room door, "Miss Smith." And
+thus, following the sound of your name, you hear it for the last time
+shouted aloud, just before you enter the room.
+
+We found a considerable throng, and I was glad to accept a seat which
+was offered me in the agreeable vicinity of the lady mayoress, so that I
+might see what would be interesting to me of the ceremonial.
+
+The titles in law here, as in every thing else, are manifold; and the
+powdered-headed gentleman at the door pronounced them with an evident
+relish, which was joyous to hear--Mr. Attorney, Mr. Solicitor, and Mr.
+Sergeant; Lord Chief Baron, Lord Chief Justice, and Lord this, and Lord
+that, and Lord the other, more than I could possibly remember, as in
+they came dressed in black, with smallclothes and silk stockings, with
+swords by their sides, and little cocked hats under their arms, bowing
+gracefully before the lady mayoress.
+
+I saw no big wigs, but some wore the hair tied behind with a small black
+silk bag attached to it. Some of the principal men were dressed in black
+velvet, which became them finely. Some had broad shirt frills of point
+or Mechlin lace, with wide ruffles of the same round their wrists.
+
+Poor C., barbarian that he was, and utterly unaware of the priceless
+gentility of the thing, said to me, _sotto voce_, "How can men wear such
+dirty stuff? Why don't they wash it?" I expounded to him what an
+ignorant sinner he was, and that the dirt of ages was one of the surest
+indications of value. Wash point lace! it would be as bad as cleaning up
+the antiquary's study.
+
+The ladies were in full dress, which here in England means always a
+dress which exposes the neck and shoulders. This requirement seems to be
+universal, since ladies of all ages conform to it. It may, perhaps,
+account for this custom, to say that the bust of an English lady is
+seldom otherwise than fine, and develops a full outline at what we
+should call quite an advanced period of life.
+
+A very dignified gentleman, dressed in black velvet, with a fine head,
+made his way through the throng, and sat down by me, introducing himself
+as Lord Chief Baron Pollock. He told me he had just been reading the
+legal part of the Key to Uncle Tom's Cabin, and remarked especially on
+the opinion of Judge Ruffin, in the case of State _v._ Mann, as having
+made a deep impression on his mind. Of the character of the decision,
+considered as a legal and literary document, he spoke in terms of high
+admiration; said that nothing had ever given him so clear a view of the
+essential nature of slavery. We found that this document had produced
+the same impression on the minds of several others present. Mr. S. said
+that one or two distinguished legal gentlemen mentioned it to him in
+similar terms. The talent and force displayed in it, as well as the high
+spirit and scorn of dissimulation, appear to have created a strong
+interest in its author. It always seemed to me that there was a certain
+severe strength and grandeur about it which approached to the heroic.
+One or two said that they were glad such a man had retired from the
+practice of such a system of law.
+
+But there was scarce a moment for conversation amid the whirl and eddy
+of so many presentations. Before the company had all assembled, the room
+was a perfect jam of legal and literary notabilities. The dinner was
+announced between nine and ten o'clock. We were conducted into a
+splendid hall, where the tables were laid. Four long tables were set
+parallel with the length of the hall, and one on a raised platform
+across the upper end. In the midst of this sat the lord mayor and lady
+mayoress, on their right hand the judges, on their left the American
+minister, with other distinguished guests. I sat by a most agreeable and
+interesting young lady, who seemed to take pleasure in enlightening me
+on all those matters about which a stranger would naturally be
+inquisitive.
+
+Directly opposite me was Mr. Dickens, whom I now beheld for the first
+time, and was surprised to see looking so young. Mr. Justice Talfourd,
+known as the author of Ion, was also there with his lady. She had a
+beautiful antique cast of head.
+
+The lord mayor was simply dressed in black, without any other adornment
+than a massive gold chain.
+
+I asked the lady if he had not robes of state. She replied, yes; but
+they were very heavy and cumbersome, and that he never wore them when he
+could, with any propriety, avoid it. It seems to me that this matter of
+outward parade and state is gradually losing its hold even here in
+England. As society becomes enlightened, men care less and less for mere
+shows, and are apt to neglect those outward forms which have neither
+beauty nor convenience on their side, such as judges' wigs and lord
+mayors' robes.
+
+As a general thing the company were more plainly dressed than I had
+expected. I am really glad that there is a movement being made to carry
+the doctrine of plain dress into our diplomatic representation. Even
+older nations are becoming tired of mere shows; and, certainly, the
+representatives of a republic ought not to begin to put on the finery
+which monarchies are beginning to cast off.
+
+The present lord mayor is a member of the House of Commons--a most
+liberal-minded man; very simple, but pleasing in his appearance and
+address; one who seems to think more of essentials than of show.
+
+He is a dissenter, being a member of Rev. Mr. Binney's church, a man
+warmly interested in the promotion of Sabbath schools, and every worthy
+and benevolent object.
+
+The ceremonies of the dinner were long and weary, and, I thought, seemed
+to be more fully entered into by a flourishing official, who stood at
+the mayor's back, than by any other person present.
+
+The business of toast-drinking is reduced to the nicest system. A
+regular official, called a toast master, stood behind the lord mayor
+with a paper, from which he read the toasts in their order. Every one,
+according to his several rank, pretensions, and station, must be toasted
+in his gradation; and every person toasted must have his name announced
+by the official,--the larger dignitaries being proposed alone in their
+glory, while the smaller fry are read out by the dozen,--and to each
+toast somebody must get up and make a speech.
+
+First, after the usual loyal toasts, the lord mayor proposed the health
+of the American minister, expressing himself in the warmest terms of
+friendship towards our country; to which Mr. Ingersoll responded very
+handsomely. Among the speakers I was particularly pleased with Lord
+Chief Baron Pollock, who, in the absence of Lord Chief Justice Campbell,
+was toasted as the highest representative of the legal profession. He
+spoke with great dignity, simplicity, and courtesy, taking occasion to
+pay very flattering compliments to the American legal profession,
+speaking particularly of Judge Story. The compliment gave me great
+pleasure, because it seemed a just and noble-minded appreciation, and
+not a mere civil fiction. We are always better pleased with appreciation
+than flattery, though perhaps he strained a point when he said, "Our
+brethren on the other side of the Atlantic, with whom we are now
+exchanging legal authorities, I fear largely surpass us in the
+production of philosophic and comprehensive forms."
+
+Speaking of the two countries he said, "God forbid that, with a common
+language, with common laws which we are materially improving for the
+benefit of mankind, with one common literature, with one common
+religion, and above all with one common love of liberty, God forbid that
+any feeling should arise between the two countries but the desire to
+carry through the world these advantages."
+
+Mr. Justice Talfourd proposed the literature of our two countries, under
+the head of "Anglo-Saxon Literature." He made allusion to the author of
+Uncle Tom's Cabin and Mr. Dickens, speaking of both as having employed
+fiction as a means of awakening the attention of the respective
+countries to the condition of the oppressed and suffering classes. Mr.
+Talfourd appears to be in the prime of life, of a robust and somewhat
+florid habit. He is universally beloved for his nobleness of soul and
+generous interest in all that tends to promote the welfare of humanity,
+no less than for his classical and scholarly attainments.
+
+Mr. Dickens replied to this toast in a graceful and playful strain. In
+the former part of the evening, in reply to a toast on the chancery
+department, Vice-Chancellor Wood, who spoke in the absence of the lord
+chancellor, made a sort of defence of the Court of Chancery, not
+distinctly alluding to Bleak House, but evidently not without reference
+to it. The amount of what he said was, that the court had received a
+great many more hard opinions than it merited; that they had been
+parsimoniously obliged to perform a great amount of business by a very
+inadequate number of judges; but that more recently the number of judges
+had been increased to seven, and there was reason to hope that all
+business brought before it would now be performed without unnecessary
+delay.
+
+In the conclusion of Mr. Dickens's speech he alluded playfully to this
+item of intelligence; said he was exceedingly happy to hear it, as he
+trusted now that a suit, in which he was greatly interested, would
+speedily come to an end. I heard a little by conversation between Mr.
+Dickens and a gentleman of the bar, who sat opposite me, in which the
+latter seemed to be reiterating the same assertions, and I understood
+him to say, that a case not extraordinarily complicated might be got
+through with in three months. Mr. Dickens said he was very happy to hear
+it; but I fancied there was a little shade of incredulity in his manner;
+however, the incident showed one thing, that is, that the chancery were
+not insensible to the representations of Dickens; but the whole tone of
+the thing was quite good-natured and agreeable. In this respect, I must
+say I think the English are quite remarkable. Every thing here meets the
+very freest handling; nothing is too sacred to be publicly shown up; but
+those who are exhibited appear to have too much good sense to recognize
+the force of the picture by getting angry. Mr. Dickens has gone on
+unmercifully exposing all sorts of weak places in the English fabric,
+public and private, yet nobody cries out upon him as the slanderer of
+his country. He serves up Lord Dedlocks to his heart's content, yet none
+of the nobility make wry faces about it; nobody is in a hurry to
+proclaim that he has recognized the picture, by getting into a passion
+at it. The contrast between the people of England and America, in this
+respect, is rather unfavorable to us, because they are by profession
+conservative, and we by profession radical.
+
+For us to be annoyed when any of our institutions are commented upon, is
+in the highest degree absurd; it would do well enough for Naples, but it
+does not do for America.
+
+There were some curious old customs observed at this dinner which
+interested me as peculiar. About the middle of the feast, the official
+who performed all the announcing made the declaration that the lord
+mayor and lady mayoress would pledge the guests in a loving cup. They
+then rose, and the official presented them with a massive gold cup, full
+of wine, in which they pledged the guests. It then passed down the
+table, and the guests rose, two and two, each tasting and presenting to
+the other. My fair informant told me that this was a custom which had
+come down from the most ancient time.
+
+The banquet was enlivened at intervals by songs from professional
+singers, hired for the occasion. After the banquet was over, massive
+gold basins, filled with rose water, slid along down the table, into
+which the guests dipped their napkins--an improvement, I suppose, on the
+doctrine of finger glasses, or perhaps the primeval form of the custom.
+
+We rose from table between eleven and twelve o'clock--that is, we
+ladies--and went into the drawing room, where I was presented to Mrs.
+Dickens and several other ladies. Mrs. Dickens is a good specimen of a
+truly English woman; tall, large, and well developed, with fine, healthy
+color, and an air of frankness, cheerfulness, and reliability. A friend
+whispered to me that she was as observing, and fond of humor, as her
+husband.
+
+After a while the gentlemen came back to the drawing room, and I had a
+few moments of very pleasant, friendly conversation with Mr. Dickens.
+They are both people that one could not know a little of without
+desiring to know more.
+
+I had some conversation with the lady mayoress. She said she had been
+invited to meet me at Stafford House on Saturday, but should be unable
+to attend, as she had called a meeting on the same day of the city
+ladies, for considering the condition of milliners and dressmakers, and
+to form a society for their relief to act in conjunction with that of
+the west end.
+
+After a little we began to talk of separating; the lord mayor to take
+his seat in the House of Commons, and the rest of the party to any other
+engagement that might be upon their list.
+
+"Come, let us go to the House of Commons," said one of my friends, "and
+make a night of it." "With all my heart," replied I, "if I only had
+another body to go into to-morrow."
+
+What a convenience in sight-seeing it would be if one could have a relay
+of bodies, as of clothes, and go from one into the other. But we, not
+used to the London style of turning night into day, are full weary
+already; so, good night.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+
+ROSE COTTAGE, WALWORTH, LONDON, May 2.
+
+MY DEAR:--
+
+This morning Mrs. Follen called, and we had quite a long chat together.
+We are separated by the whole city. She lives at West End, while I am
+down here in Walworth, which is one of the postscripts of London; for
+London has as many postscripts as a lady's letter--little suburban
+villages which have been overtaken by the growth, of the city, and
+embraced in its arms. I like them a great deal better than the city, for
+my part.
+
+Here now, for instance, at Walworth, I can look out at a window and see
+a nice green meadow with sheep and lambs feeding in it, which is some
+relief in this smutty old place. London is as smutty as Pittsburg or
+Wheeling. It takes a good hour's steady riding to get from here to West
+End; so that my American friends, of the newspapers, who are afraid I
+shall be corrupted by aristocratic associations, will see that I am at
+safe distance.
+
+This evening we are appointed to dine with the Earl of Carlisle. There
+is to be no company but his own family circle, for he, with great
+consideration, said in his note that he thought a little quiet would be
+the best thing he could offer. Lord Carlisle is a great friend to
+America; and so is his sister, the Duchess of Sutherland. He is the only
+English traveller who ever wrote notes on our country in a real spirit
+of appreciation. While the Halls, and Trollopes, and all the rest could
+see nothing but our breaking eggs on the wrong end, or such matters, he
+discerned and interpreted those points wherein lies the real strength of
+our growing country. His notes on America were not very extended, being
+only sketches delivered as a lyceum lecture some years after his return.
+It was the spirit and quality, rather than quantity, of the thing that
+was noticeable.
+
+I observe that American newspapers are sneering about his preface to
+Uncle Tom's Cabin; but they ought at least to remember that his
+sentiments with regard to slavery are no sudden freak. In the first
+place, he comes of a family that has always been on the side of liberal
+and progressive principles. He himself has been a leader of reforms on
+the popular side. It was a temporary defeat, when run as an
+anti-corn-law candidate, which gave him leisure to travel in America.
+Afterwards he had the satisfaction to be triumphantly returned for that
+district, and to see the measure he had advocated fully successful.
+
+While Lord Carlisle was in America he never disguised those antislavery
+sentiments which formed a part of his political and religious creed as
+an Englishman, and as the heir of a house always true to progress. Many
+cultivated English people have shrunk from acknowledging abolitionists
+in Boston, where the ostracism of fashion and wealth has been enforced
+against them. Lord Carlisle, though moving in the highest circle,
+honestly and openly expressed his respect for them on all occasions. He
+attended the Boston antislavery fair, which at that time was quite a
+decided step. Nor did he even in any part of our country disguise his
+convictions. There is, therefore, propriety and consistency in the
+course he has taken now. It would seem that a warm interest in
+questions of a public nature has always distinguished the ladies of this
+family. The Duchess of Sutherland's mother is daughter of the celebrated
+Duchess of Devonshire, who, in her day, employed on the liberal side in
+politics all the power of genius, wit, beauty, and rank. It was to the
+electioneering talents of herself and her sister, the Lady Duncannon,
+that Fox, at one crisis, owed his election. We Americans should remember
+that it was this party who advocated our cause during our revolutionary
+struggle. Fox and his associates pleaded for us with much the same
+arguments, and with the same earnestness and warmth, that American
+abolitionists now plead for the slaves. They stood against all the power
+of the king and cabinet, as the abolitionists in America in 1850 stood
+against president and cabinet.
+
+The Duchess of Devonshire was a woman of real noble impulses and
+generous emotions, and had a true sympathy for what is free and heroic.
+Coleridge has some fine lines addressed to her,--called forth by a
+sonnet which she composed, while in Switzerland, on William Tell's
+Chapel,--which begin,--
+
+  "O lady, nursed in pomp and pleasure,
+  Where learn'dst thou that heroic measure?"
+
+The Duchess of Sutherland, in our times, has been known to be no less
+warmly interested on the liberal side. So great was her influence held
+to be, that upon a certain occasion when a tory cabinet was to be
+formed, a distinguished minister is reported to have said to the queen
+that he could not hope to succeed in his administration while such a
+decided influence as that of the Duchess of Sutherland stood at the
+head of her majesty's household. The queen's spirited refusal to
+surrender her favorite attendant attracted, at the time, universal
+admiration.
+
+Like her brother Lord Carlisle, the Duchess of Sutherland has always
+professed those sentiments with regard to slavery which are the glory of
+the English nation, and which are held with more particular zeal by
+those families who are favorable to the progress of liberal ideas.
+
+At about seven o'clock we took our carriage to go to the Earl of
+Carlisle's, the dinner hour being here somewhere between eight and nine.
+As we rode on through the usual steady drizzling rain, from street to
+street and square to square, crossing Waterloo Bridge, with its avenue
+of lamps faintly visible in the seethy mist, plunging through the heart
+of the city, we began to realize something of the immense extent of
+London.
+
+Altogether the most striking objects that you pass, as you ride in the
+evening thus, are the gin shops, flaming and flaring from the most
+conspicuous positions, with plate-glass windows and dazzling lights,
+thronged with men, and women, and children, drinking destruction.
+Mothers go there with babies in their arms, and take what turns the
+mother's milk to poison. Husbands go there, and spend the money that
+their children want for bread, and multitudes of boys and girls of the
+age of my own. In Paris and other European cities, at least the great
+fisher of souls baits with something attractive, but in these gin shops
+men bite at the bare, barbed hook. There are no garlands, no dancing, no
+music, no theatricals, no pretence of social exhilaration, nothing but
+hogsheads of spirits, and people going in to drink. The number of them
+that I passed seemed to me absolutely appalling.
+
+After long driving we found ourselves coming into the precincts of the
+West End, and began to feel an indefinite sense that we were approaching
+something very grand, though I cannot say that we saw much but heavy,
+smoky-walled buildings, washed by the rain. At length we stopped in
+Grosvenor Place, and alighted.
+
+We were shown into an anteroom adjoining the entrance hall, and from
+that into an adjacent apartment, where we met Lord Carlisle. The room
+had a pleasant, social air, warmed and enlivened by the blaze of a coal
+fire and wax candles.
+
+We had never, any of us, met Lord Carlisle before; but the
+considerateness and cordiality of our reception obviated whatever
+embarrassment there might have been in this circumstance. In a few
+moments after we were all seated the servant announced the Duchess of
+Sutherland, and Lord Carlisle presented me. She is tall and stately,
+with a decided fulness of outline, and a most noble bearing. Her fair
+complexion, blond hair, and full lips speak of Saxon blood. In her early
+youth she might have been a Rowena. I thought of the lines of
+Wordsworth:--
+
+  "A perfect woman, nobly planned,
+  To warn, to comfort, to command."
+
+Her manners have a peculiar warmth and cordiality. One sees people now
+and then who seem to _radiate_ kindness and vitality, and to have a
+faculty of inspiring perfect confidence in a moment. There are no airs
+of grandeur, no patronizing ways; but a genuine sincerity and kindliness
+that seem to come from a deep fountain within.
+
+The engraving by Winterhalter, which has been somewhat familiar in
+America, is as just a representation of her air and bearing as could be
+given.
+
+After this we were presented to the various members of the Howard
+family, which is a very numerous one. Among them were Lady Dover, Lady
+Lascelles, and Lady Labouchère, sisters of the duchess. The Earl of
+Burlington, who is the heir of the Duke of Devonshire, was also present.
+The Duke of Devonshire is the uncle of Lord Carlisle.
+
+The only person present not of the family connection was my quondam
+correspondent in America, Arthur Helps. Somehow or other I had formed
+the impression from his writings that he was a venerable sage of very
+advanced years, who contemplated life as an aged hermit, from the door
+of his cell. Conceive my surprise to find a genial young gentleman of
+about twenty-five, who looked as if he might enjoy a joke as well as
+another man.
+
+At dinner I found myself between him and Lord Carlisle, and perceiving,
+perhaps, that the nature of my reflections was of rather an amusing
+order, he asked me confidentially if I did not like fun, to which I
+assented with fervor. I like that little homely word _fun_, though I
+understand the dictionary says what it represents is vulgar; but I think
+it has a good, hearty, Saxon sound, and I like Saxon, better than Latin
+or French either.
+
+When the servant offered me wine Lord Carlisle asked me if our party
+were all _teetotallers_, and I said yes; that in America all clergymen
+were teetotallers, of course.
+
+After the ladies left the table the conversation turned on the Maine
+law, which seems to be considered over here as a phenomenon, in
+legislation, and many of the gentlemen, present inquired about it with
+great curiosity.
+
+When we went into the drawing room I was presented to the venerable
+Countess of Carlisle, the earl's mother; a lady universally beloved and
+revered, not less for superior traits of mind than for great loveliness
+and benevolence of character. She received us with the utmost kindness;
+kindness evidently genuine and real.
+
+The walls of the drawing room were beautifully adorned with works of art
+by the best masters. There was a Rembrandt hanging over the fireplace,
+which showed finely by the evening light. It was simply the portrait of
+a man with a broad, Flemish hat. There were one or two pictures, also,
+by Cuyp. I should think he must have studied in America, so perfectly
+does he represent the golden, hazy atmosphere of our Indian summer.
+
+One of the ladies showed me a snuff box on which was a picture of Lady
+Carlisle's mother, the celebrated Duchess of Devonshire, taken when she
+was quite a little girl; a round, happy face, showing great vivacity and
+genius. On another box was an exquisitely beautiful miniature of a
+relative of the family.
+
+After the gentlemen rejoined us came in the Duke and Duchess of Argyle,
+and Lord and Lady Blantyre. These ladies are the daughters of the
+Duchess of Sutherland. The Duchess of Argyle is of a slight and
+fairy-like figure, with flaxen hair and blue eyes, answering well enough
+to the description of Annot Lyle, in the Legend of Montrose. Lady
+Blantyre was somewhat taller, of fuller figure, with very brilliant
+bloom. Lord Blantyre is of the Stuart blood, a tall and slender young
+man, with very graceful manners.
+
+As to the Duke of Argyle, we found that the picture drawn of him by his
+countrymen in Scotland was every way correct. Though slight of figure,
+with fair complexion and blue eyes, his whole appearance is indicative
+of energy and vivacity. His talents and efficiency have made him a
+member of the British cabinet at a much earlier age than is usual; and
+he has distinguished himself not only in political life, but as a
+writer, having given to the world a work on Presbyterianism, embracing
+an analysis of the ecclesiastical history of Scotland since the
+reformation, which is spoken of as written with great ability, in a most
+candid and liberal spirit.
+
+The company soon formed themselves into little groups in different parts
+of the room. The Duchess of Sutherland, Lord Carlisle, and the Duke and
+Duchess of Argyle formed a circle, and turned the conversation upon
+American topics. The Duke of Argyle made many inquiries about our
+distinguished men; particularly of Emerson, Longfellow, and Hawthorne;
+also of Prescott, who appears to be a general favorite here. I felt at
+the moment that we never value our literary men so much as when placed
+in a circle of intelligent foreigners; it is particularly so with
+Americans, because we have nothing but our men and women to glory in--no
+court, no nobles, no castles, no cathedrals; except we produce
+distinguished specimens of humanity, we are nothing.
+
+The quietness of this evening circle, the charm of its kind hospitality,
+the evident air of sincerity and good will which pervaded every thing,
+made the evening pass most delightfully to me. I had never felt myself
+more at home even among the Quakers. Such a visit is a true rest and
+refreshment, a thousand times better than the most brilliant and
+glittering entertainment.
+
+At eleven o'clock, however, the carriage called, for our evening was
+drawing to its close; that of our friends, I suppose, was but just
+commencing, as London's liveliest hours are by gaslight, but we cannot
+learn the art of turning night into day.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+
+May 4.
+
+MY DEAR S.:--
+
+This morning I felt too tired to go out any where; but Mr. and Mrs.
+Binney persuaded me to go just a little while in to the meeting of the
+Bible Society, for you must know that this is anniversary week, and so,
+besides the usual rush, and roar, and whirl of London, there is the
+confluence of all the religious forces in Exeter Hall. I told Mrs. B.
+that I was worn out, and did not think I could sit through a single
+speech; but she tempted me by a promise that I should withdraw at any
+moment. We had a nice little snug gallery near one of the doors, where I
+could see all over the house, and make a quick retreat in case of need.
+
+In one point English ladies certainly do carry practical industry
+farther than I ever saw it in America. Every body knows that an
+anniversary meeting is something of a siege, and I observed many good
+ladies below had made regular provision therefor, by bringing knitting
+work, sewing, crochet, or embroidery. I thought it was an improvement,
+and mean to recommend it when I get home. I am sure many of our Marthas
+in America will be very grateful for the custom.
+
+The Earl of Shaftesbury was in the chair, and I saw him now for the
+first time. He is quite a tall man, of slender figure, with a long and
+narrow face, dark hazel eyes, and very thick, auburn hair. His bearing
+was dignified and appropriate to his position. People here are somewhat
+amused by the vivacity with which American papers are exhorting Lord
+Shaftesbury to look into the factory system, and to explore the
+collieries, and in general to take care of the suffering lower classes,
+as if he had been doing any thing else for these twenty years past. To
+people who know how he has worked against wind and tide, in the face of
+opposition and obloquy, and how all the dreadful statistics that they
+quote against him were brought out expressly by inquiries set on foot
+and prosecuted by him, and how these same statistics have been by him
+reiterated in the ears of successive houses of Parliament till all these
+abuses have been reformed, as far as the most stringent and minute
+legislation can reform, them,--it is quite amusing to hear him exhorted
+to consider the situation of the working classes. One reason for this,
+perhaps, is that provoking facility in changing names which is incident
+to the English peerage. During the time that most of the researches and
+speeches on the factory system and collieries were made, the Earl of
+Shaftesbury was in the House of Commons, with the title of Lord Ashley,
+and it was not till the death of his father that he entered the House of
+Peers as Lord Shaftesbury. The contrast which a very staid religious
+paper in America has drawn between Lord Ashley and Lord Shaftesbury does
+not strike people over here as remarkably apposite.
+
+In the course of the speeches on this occasion, frequent and feeling
+allusions were made to the condition of three millions of people in
+America who are prevented by legislative enactments from reading for
+themselves the word of life. I know it is not pleasant to our ministers
+upon the stage to hear such things; but is the whole moral sense of the
+world to hush its voice, the whole missionary spirit of Christianity to
+be restrained, because it is disagreeable for us to be reminded of our
+national sins? At least, let the moral atmosphere of the world be kept
+pure, though it should be too stimulating for our diseased lungs. If
+oral instruction will do for three million slaves in America, it will do
+equally well in Austria, Italy, and Spain, and the powers that be,
+there, are just of the opinion that they are in America--that it is
+dangerous to have the people read the Bible for themselves. Thoughts of
+this kind were very ably set forth in some of the speeches. On the stage
+I noticed Rev. Samuel R. Ward, from Toronto in Canada, a full blooded
+African of fine personal presence. He was received and treated with much
+cordiality by the ministerial brethren who surrounded him. I was sorry
+that I could not stay through the speeches, for they were quite
+interesting. C. thought they were the best he ever heard at an
+anniversary. I was obliged to leave after a little. Mr. Sherman very
+kindly came for us in his carriage, and took us a little ride into the
+country.
+
+Mrs. B. says that to-morrow morning we shall go out to see the Dulwich
+Gallery, a fine collection of paintings by the old masters. Now, I
+confess unto you that I have great suspicions of these old masters. Why,
+I wish to know, should none but _old_ masters be thought any thing of?
+Is not nature ever springing, ever new? Is it not fair to conclude that
+all the mechanical assistants of painting are improved with the advance
+of society, as much as of all arts? May not the magical tints, which are
+said to be a secret with the old masters, be the effect of time in part?
+or may not modern artists have their secrets, as well, for future ages
+to study and admire? Then, besides, how are we to know that our
+admiration of old masters is genuine, since we can bring our taste to
+any thing, if we only know we must, and try long enough? People never
+like olives the first time they eat them. In fact, I must confess, I
+have some partialities towards young masters, and a sort of suspicion
+that we are passing over better paintings at our side, to get at those
+which, though the best of their day, are not so good as the best of
+ours. I certainly do not worship the old English poets. With the
+exception of Milton and Shakspeare, there is more poetry in the works of
+the writers of the last fifty years than in all the rest together. Well,
+these are my surmises for the present; but one thing I am determined--as
+my admiration is nothing to any body but myself, I will keep some likes
+and dislikes of my own, and will not get up any raptures that do not
+arise of themselves. I am entirely willing to be conquered by any
+picture that has the power. I will be a non-resistant, but that is all.
+
+May 5. Well, we saw the Dulwich Gallery; five rooms filled with old
+masters, Murillos, Claudes, Rubens, Salvator Rosas, Titians, Cuyps,
+Vandykes, and all the rest of them; probably not the best specimens of
+any one of them, but good enough to begin with. C. and I took different
+courses. I said to him, "Now choose nine pictures simply by your eye,
+and see how far its untaught guidance will bring you within the canons
+of criticism." When he had gone through all the rooms and marked his
+pictures, we found he had selected two by Rubens, two by Vandyke, one by
+Salvator Rosa, three by Murillo, and one by Titian. Pretty successful
+that, was it not, for a first essay? We then took the catalogue, and
+selected all the pictures of each artist one after another, in order to
+get an idea of the style of each. I had a great curiosity to see Claude
+Lorraine's, remembering the poetical things that had been said and sung
+of him. I thought I would see if I could distinguish them by my eye
+without looking at the catalogue I found I could do so. I knew them by a
+certain misty quality in the atmosphere. I was disappointed in them,
+very much. Certainly, they were good paintings; I had nothing to object
+to them, but I profanely thought I had seen pictures by modern landscape
+painters as far excelling them as a brilliant morning excels a cool,
+gray day. Very likely the fault was all in me, but I could not help it;
+so I tried the Murillos. There was a Virgin and Child, with clouds
+around them. The virgin was a very pretty girl, such as you may see by
+the dozen in any boarding school, and the child was a pretty child. Call
+it the young mother and son, and it is a very pretty picture; but call
+it Mary and the infant Jesus, and it is an utter failure. Not such was
+the Jewish princess, the inspired poetess and priestess, the chosen of
+God among all women.
+
+It seems to me that painting is poetry expressing itself by lines and
+colors instead of words; therefore there are two things to be considered
+in every picture: first, the quality of the idea expressed, and second,
+the quality of the language in which it is expressed. Now, with regard
+to the first, I hold that every person of cultivated taste is as good a
+judge of painting as of poetry. The second, which relates to the mode of
+expressing the conception, including drawing and coloring, with all
+their secrets, requires more study, and here our untaught perceptions
+must sometimes yield to the judgment of artists. My first question,
+then, when I look at the work of an artist, is, What sort of a mind has
+this man? What has he to say? And then I consider, How does he say it?
+
+Now, with regard to Murillo, it appeared to me that he was a man of
+rather a mediocre mind, with nothing very high or deep to say, but that
+he was gifted with an exquisite faculty of expressing what he did say;
+and his paintings seem to me to bear an analogy to Pope's poetry,
+wherein the power of expression is wrought to the highest point, but
+without freshness or ideality in the conception. As Pope could reproduce
+in most exquisite wording the fervent ideas of Eloisa, without the power
+to originate such, so Murillo reproduced the current and floating
+religious ideas of his times, with most exquisite perfection of art and
+color, but without ideality or vitality. The pictures of his which
+please me most are his beggar boys and flower girls, where he abandons
+the region of ideality, and simply reproduces nature. His art and
+coloring give an exquisite grace to such sketches.
+
+As to Vandyke, though evidently a fine painter, he is one whose mind
+does not move me. He adds nothing to my stock of thoughts--awakens no
+emotion. I know it is a fine picture, just as I have sometimes been
+conscious in church that I was hearing a fine sermon, which somehow had
+not the slightest effect upon me.
+
+Rubens, on the contrary, whose pictures I detested with all the energy
+of my soul, I knew and felt all the time, by the very pain he gave me,
+to be a real living artist. There was a Venus and Cupid there, as fat
+and as coarse as they could be, but so freely drawn, and so masterly in
+their expression and handling, that one must feel that they were by an
+artist, who could just as easily have painted them any other way if it
+had suited his sovereign pleasure, and therefore we are the more vexed
+with him. When your taste is crossed by a clever person, it always vexes
+you more than when it is done by a stupid one, because it is done with
+such power that there is less hope for you.
+
+There were a number of pictures of Cuyp there, which satisfied my thirst
+for coloring, and appeared to me as I expected the Claudes would have
+done. Generally speaking, his objects are few in number and commonplace
+in their character--a bit of land and water, a few cattle and figures,
+in no way remarkable; but then he floods the whole with that dreamy,
+misty sunlight, such as fills the arches of our forests in the days of
+autumn. As I looked at them I fancied I could hear nuts dropping from
+the trees among the dry leaves, and see the goldenrods and purple
+asters, and hear the click of the squirrel as he whips up the tree to
+his nest. For this one attribute of golden, dreamy haziness, I like
+Cuyp. His power in shedding it over very simple objects reminds me of
+some of the short poems of Longfellow, when things in themselves most
+prosaic are flooded with a kind of poetic light from the inner soul.
+These are merely first ideas and impressions. Of course I do not make up
+my mind about any artist from what I have seen here. We must not expect
+a painter to put his talent into every picture, more than a poet into
+every verse that he writes. Like other men, he is sometimes brilliant
+and inspired, and at others dull and heavy. In general, however, I have
+this to say, that there is some kind of fascination about these old
+masters which I feel very sensibly. But yet, I am sorry to add that
+there is very little of what I consider the highest mission of art in
+the specimens I have thus far seen; nothing which speaks to the deepest
+and the highest; which would inspire a generous ardor, or a solemn
+religious trust. Vainly I seek for something divine, and ask of art to
+bring me nearer to the source of all beauty and perfection. I find
+wealth of coloring, freedom of design, and capability of expression
+wasting themselves merely in portraying trivial sensualities and
+commonplace ideas. So much for the first essay.
+
+In the evening we went to dine with our old friends of the Dingle, Mr.
+and Mrs. Edward Cropper, who are now spending a little time in London.
+We were delighted to meet them once more, and to hear from our Liverpool
+friends. Mrs. Cropper's father, Lord Denman, has returned to England,
+though with no sensible improvement in his health.
+
+At dinner we were introduced to Lord and Lady Hatherton. Lord Hatherton
+is a member of the whig party, and has been chief secretary for Ireland.
+Lady Hatherton is a person of great cultivation and intelligence, warmly
+interested in all the progressive movements of the day; and I gained
+much information in her society. There were also present Sir Charles and
+Lady Trevelyan; the former holds some appointment in the navy. Lady
+Trevelyan is a sister of Macaulay.
+
+In the evening quite a circle came in; among others, Lady Emma Campbell,
+sister of the Duke of Argyle; the daughters of the Archbishop of
+Canterbury, who very kindly invited me to visit them, at Lambeth; and
+Mr. Arthur Helps, besides many others whose names I need not mention.
+
+People here continually apologize for the weather, which, to say the
+least, has been rather ungracious since we have been here; as if one
+ever expected to find any thing but smoke, and darkness, and fog in
+London. The authentic air with which they lament the existence of these
+things _at present_ would almost persuade one that _in general_ London
+was a very clear, bright place. I, however, assured them that, having
+heard from my childhood of the smoke of London, its dimness and
+darkness, I found things much better than I had expected.
+
+They talk here of spirit rappings and table turnings, I find, as in
+America. Many rumors are afloat which seem to have no other effect than
+merely to enliven the chitchat of an evening circle. I passed a very
+pleasant evening, and left about ten o'clock. The gentleman who was
+handing me down stairs said, "I suppose you are going to one or two
+other places to-night." The idea struck me as so preposterous that I
+could not help an exclamation of surprise.
+
+May 6. A good many calls this morning. Among others came Miss
+Greenfield, the (so called) Black Swan. She appears to be a gentle,
+amiable, and interesting young person. She was born the slave of a kind
+mistress, who gave her every thing but education, and, dying, left her
+free with a little property. The property she lost by some legal
+quibble, but had, like others of her race, a passion for music, and
+could sing and play by ear. A young lady, discovering her taste, gave
+her a few lessons. She has a most astonishing voice. C. sat down to the
+piano and played, while she sung. Her voice runs through a compass of
+three octaves and a fourth. This is four notes more than Malibran's. She
+sings a most magnificent tenor, with such a breadth and volume of sound
+that, with your back turned, you could not imagine it to be a woman.
+While she was there, Mrs. S.C. Hall, of the Irish Sketches, was
+announced. She is a tall, well-proportioned woman, with a fine color,
+dark-brown hair, and a cheerful, cordial manner. She brought with her
+her only daughter, a young girl about fifteen. I told her of Miss
+Greenfield, and, she took great interest in her, and requested her to
+sing something for her. C. played the accompaniment, and she sung Old
+Folks at Home, first in a soprano voice, and then in a tenor or
+baritone. Mrs. Hall was amazed and delighted, and entered at once into
+her cause. She said that she would call with me and present her to Sir
+George Smart, who is at the head of the queen's musical establishment,
+and, of course, the acknowledged leader of London musical judgment.
+
+Mrs. Hall very kindly told me that she had called to invite me to seek a
+retreat with her in her charming little country house near London. I do
+not mean that _she_ called it a charming little retreat, but that every
+one who speaks of it gives it that character. She told me that I should
+there have positive and perfect quiet; and what could attract me more
+than that? She said, moreover, that there they had a great many
+nightingales. Ah, this "bower of roses by Bendemeer's stream," could I
+only go there! but I am tied to London by a hundred engagements. I
+cannot do it. Nevertheless, I have promised that I will go and spend
+some time yet, when Mr. S. leaves London.
+
+In the course of the day I had a note from Mrs. Hall, saying that, as
+Sir George Smart was about leaving town, she had not waited for me, but
+had taken Miss Greenfield to him herself. She writes that he was really
+astonished and charmed at the wonderful weight, compass, and power of
+her voice. He was also as well pleased with the mind in her singing, and
+her quickness in doing and catching all that he told her. Should she
+have a public opportunity to perform, he offered to hear her rehearse
+beforehand. Mrs. Hall says this is a great deal for him, whose hours are
+all marked with gold.
+
+In the evening the house was opened in a general way for callers, who
+were coming and going all the evening. I think there must have been over
+two hundred people--among them Martin Farquhar Tupper, a little man,
+with fresh, rosy complexion, and cheery, joyous manners; and Mary
+Howitt, just such a cheerful, sensible, fireside companion as we find
+her in her books,--winning love and trust the very first few moments of
+the interview. The general topic of remark on meeting me seems to be,
+that I am not so bad looking as they were afraid I was; and I do assure
+you that, when I have seen the things that are put up in the shop
+windows here with my name under them, I have been in wondering
+admiration at the boundless loving-kindness of my English and Scottish
+friends, in keeping up such a warm heart for such a Gorgon. I should
+think that the Sphinx in the London Museum might have sat for most of
+them. I am going to make a collection of these portraits to bring home
+to you. There is a great variety of them, and they will be useful, like
+the Irishman's guideboard, which showed where the road did not go.
+
+Before the evening was through I was talked out and worn out--there was
+hardly a chip of me left. To-morrow at eleven o'clock comes the meeting
+at Stafford House. What it will amount to I do not know; but I take no
+thought for the morrow.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+
+MAY 8.
+
+MY DEAR C.:--
+
+In fulfilment of my agreement, I will tell you, as nearly as I can
+remember, all the details of the meeting at Stafford House.
+
+At about eleven o'clock we drove under the arched carriage way of a
+mansion, externally, not very showy in appearance. It stands on the
+borders of St. James's Park, opposite to Buckingham Palace, with a
+street on the north side, and beautiful gardens on the south, while the
+park is extended on the west.
+
+We were received at the door by two stately Highlanders in full costume;
+and what seemed to me an innumerable multitude of servants in livery,
+with powdered hair, repeated our names through the long corridors, from
+one to another.
+
+I have only a confused idea of passing from passage to passage, and from
+hall to hall, till finally we were introduced into a large drawing room.
+No person was present, and I was at full leisure to survey an apartment
+whose arrangements more perfectly suited my eye and taste than any I had
+ever seen before. There was not any particular splendor of furniture, or
+dazzling display of upholstery, but an artistic, poetic air, resulting
+from the arrangement of colors, and the disposition of the works of
+_virtu_ with which the room abounded. The great fault in many splendid
+rooms, is, that they are arranged without any eye to unity of
+impression. The things in them may be all fine in their way, but there
+is no harmony of result.
+
+People do not often consider that there may be a general sentiment to be
+expressed in the arrangement of a room, as well as in the composition of
+a picture. It is this leading idea which corresponds to what painters
+call the ground tone, or harmonizing tint, of a picture. The presence of
+this often renders a very simple room extremely fascinating, and the
+absence of it makes the most splendid combinations of furniture
+powerless to please.
+
+The walls were covered with green damask, laid on flat, and confined in
+its place by narrow gilt bands, which bordered it around the margin. The
+chairs, ottomans, and sofas were of white woodwork, varnished and
+gilded, covered with the same.
+
+The carpet was of a green ground, bedropped with a small yellow leaf;
+and in each window a circular, standing basket contained a whole bank of
+primroses, growing as if in their native soil, their pale yellow
+blossoms and green leaves harmonizing admirably with the general tone of
+coloring.
+
+Through the fall of the lace curtains I could see out into the beautiful
+grounds, whose clumps of blossoming white lilacs, and velvet grass,
+seemed so in harmony with the green interior of the room, that one would
+think they had been arranged as a continuation of the idea.
+
+One of the first individual objects which attracted my attention was,
+over the mantel-piece, a large, splendid picture by Landseer, which I
+have often seen engraved. It represents the two eldest children of the
+Duchess of Sutherland, the Marquis of Stafford, and Lady Blantyre, at
+that time Lady Levison Gower, in their childhood. She is represented as
+feeding a fawn; a little poodle dog is holding up a rose to her; and her
+brother is lying on the ground, playing with an old staghound.
+
+I had been familiar with Landseer's engravings, but this was the first
+of his paintings I had ever seen, and I was struck with the rich and
+harmonious quality of the coloring. There was also a full-length marble
+statue of the Marquis of Stafford, taken, I should think, at about
+seventeen years of age, in full Highland costume.
+
+When the duchess appeared, I thought she looked handsomer by daylight
+than in the evening. She was dressed in white muslin, with a drab velvet
+basque slashed with satin of the same color. Her hair was confined by a
+gold and diamond net on the back part of her head.
+
+She received us with the same warm and simple kindness which she had
+shown before. We were presented to the Duke of Sutherland. He is a tall,
+slender man, with rather a thin face, light brown hair, and a mild blue
+eye, with an air of gentleness and dignity. The delicacy of his health
+prevents him from moving in general society, or entering into public
+life. He spends much of his time in reading, and devising and executing
+schemes of practical benevolence for the welfare of his numerous
+dependants.
+
+I sought a little private conversation with the duchess in her boudoir,
+in which I frankly confessed a little anxiety respecting the
+arrangements of the day: having lived all my life in such a shady and
+sequestered way, and being entirely ignorant of life as it exists in the
+sphere in which she moves, such apprehensions were rather natural.
+
+She begged that I would make myself entirely easy, and consider myself
+as among my own friends; that she had invited a few friends to lunch,
+and that afterwards others would call; that there would be a short
+address from the ladies of England read by Lord Shaftesbury, which would
+require no answer.
+
+I could not but be grateful for the consideration thus evinced. The
+matter being thus adjusted, we came back to the drawing room, when the
+party began to assemble.
+
+The only difference, I may say, by the by, in the gathering of such a
+company and one with us, is in the announcing of names at the door; a,
+custom which I think a good one, saving a vast deal of the breath we
+always expend in company, by asking "Who is that? and that?" Then, too,
+people can fall into conversation without a formal presentation, the
+presumption being that nobody is invited with whom, it is not proper
+that you should converse. The functionary who performed the announcing
+was a fine, stalwart man, in full Highland costume, the duke being the
+head of a Highland clan.
+
+Among the first that entered were the members of the family, the Duke
+and Duchess of Argyle, Lord and Lady Blantyre, the Marquis and
+Marchioness of Stafford, and Lady Emma Campbell. Then followed Lord
+Shaftesbury with his beautiful lady, and her father and mother, Lord and
+Lady Palmerston. Lord Palmerston is of middle height, with a keen, dark
+eye, and black hair streaked with gray. There is something peculiarly
+alert and vivacious about all his movements; in short his appearance
+perfectly answers to what we know of him from his public life. One has a
+strange mythological feeling about the existence of people of whom one
+hears for many years without ever seeing them. While talking with Lord
+Palmerston I could but remember how often I had heard father and Mr. S.
+exulting over his foreign despatches by our home fireside.
+
+The Marquis of Lansdowne now entered. He is about the middle height,
+with gray hair, blue eyes, and a mild, quiet dignity of manner. He is
+one of those who, as Lord Henry Pettes, took a distinguished part with
+Clarkson and Wilberforce in the abolition of the slave trade. He has
+always been a most munificent patron of literature and art.
+
+There were present, also, Lord John Russell, Mr. Gladstone, and Lord
+Grenville. The latter we all thought very strikingly resembled in his
+appearance the poet Longfellow. My making the remark introduced the
+subject of his poetry. The Duchess of Argyle appealed to her two little
+boys, who stood each side of her, if they remembered her reading
+Evangeline to them. It is a gratification to me that I find by every
+English fireside traces of one of our American poets. These two little
+boys of the Duchess of Argyle, and the youngest son of the Duchess of
+Sutherland, were beautiful fair-haired children, picturesquely attired
+in the Highland costume. There were some other charming children of the
+family circle present. The eldest son of the Duke of Argyle bears the
+title of the Lord of Lorn, which Scott has rendered so poetical a sound
+to our ears.
+
+When lunch was announced, the Duke of Sutherland gave me his arm, and
+led me through a suite of rooms into the dining hall. Each room that we
+passed was rich in its pictures, statues, and artistic arrangements; a
+poetic eye and taste had evidently presided over all. The table was
+beautifully laid, ornamented by two magnificent _épergnes_, crystal
+vases supported by wrought silver standards, filled with the most
+brilliant hothouse flowers; on the edges of the vases and nestling
+among the flowers were silver doves of the size of life. The walls of
+the room were hung with gorgeous pictures, and directly opposite to me
+was a portrait of the Duchess of Sutherland, by Sir Thomas Lawrence,
+which has figured largely in our souvenirs and books of beauty. She is
+represented with a little child in her arms; this child, now Lady
+Blantyre, was sitting opposite to me at table, with a charming little
+girl of her own, of about the same apparent age. When one sees such
+things, one almost fancies this to be a fairy palace, where the cold
+demons of age and time have lost their power.
+
+I was seated next to Lord Lansdowne, who conversed much with me about
+affairs in America. It seems to me that the great men of the old world
+regard our country thoughtfully. It is a new development of society,
+acting every day with greater and greater power on the old world; nor is
+it yet clearly seen what its final results will be. His observations
+indicated a calm, clear, thoughtful mind--an accurate observer of life
+and history.
+
+Meanwhile the servants moved noiselessly to and fro, taking up the
+various articles on the table, and offering them to the guests in a
+peculiarly quiet manner. One of the dishes brought to me was a plover's
+nest, precisely as the plover made it, with five little blue speckled
+eggs in it. This mode of serving plover's eggs, as I understand it, is
+one of the fashions of-the day, and has something quite sylvan and
+picturesque about it; but it looked so, for all the world, like a
+robin's nest that I used to watch out in our home orchard, that I had it
+not in my heart to profane the sanctity of the image by eating one of
+the eggs.
+
+The _cuisine_ of these West End regions appears to be entirely under
+French legislation, conducted by Parisian artists, skilled in all subtle
+and metaphysical combinations of ethereal possibilities, quite
+inscrutable to the eye of sense. Her grace's _chef_, I have heard it
+said elsewhere, bears the reputation of being the first artist of his
+class in England. The profession as thus sublimated bears the same
+proportion to the old substantial English cookery that Mozart's music
+does to Handel's, or Midsummer Night's Dream to Paradise Lost.
+
+This meal, called _lunch_, is with the English quite an institution,
+being apparently a less elaborate and ceremonious dinner. Every thing is
+placed upon the table at once, and ladies sit down without removing
+their bonnets; it is, I imagine, the most social and family meal of the
+day; one in which children are admitted to the table, even in the
+presence of company. It generally takes place in the middle of the day,
+and the dinner, which comes after it, at eight or nine in the evening,
+is in comparison only a ceremonial proceeding.
+
+I could not help thinking, as I looked around on so many men whom I had
+heard of historically all my life, how very much less they bear the
+marks of age than men who have been connected a similar length of time
+with the movements of our country. This appearance of youthfulness and
+alertness has a constantly deceptive influence upon one in England. I
+cannot realize that people are as old as history states them to be. In
+the present company there were men of sixty or seventy, whom I should
+have pronounced at the first glance to be fifty.
+
+Generally speaking our working minds seem to wear out their bodies
+faster; perhaps because our climate is more stimulating; more, perhaps,
+from the intenser stimulus of our political _régime_, which never leaves
+any thing long at rest.
+
+The tone of manners in this distinguished circle did not obtrude itself
+upon my mind as different from that of highly-educated people in our own
+country. It appeared simple, friendly, natural, and sincere. They talked
+like people who thought of what they were saying, rather than how to say
+it. The practice of thorough culture and good breeding is substantially
+the same through the world, though smaller conventionalities may differ.
+
+After lunch the whole party ascended to the picture gallery, passing on
+our way the grand staircase and hall, said to be the most magnificent in
+Europe. All that wealth could command of artistic knowledge and skill
+has been expended here to produce a superb result. It fills the entire
+centre of the building, extending up to the roof and surmounted by a
+splendid dome. On three sides a gallery runs round it supported by
+pillars. To this gallery you ascend on the fourth side by a staircase,
+which midway has a broad, flat landing, from which stairs ascend, on the
+right and left, into the gallery. The whole hall and staircase, carpeted
+with a scarlet footcloth, give a broad, rich mass of coloring, throwing
+out finely the statuary and gilded balustrades. On the landing is a
+marble statue of a Sibyl, by Rinaldi. The walls are adorned by gorgeous
+frescos from Paul Veronese. What is peculiar in the arrangements of this
+hall is, that although so extensive, it still wears an air of warm
+homelikeness and comfort, as if it might be a delightful place to lounge
+and enjoy life, amid the ottomans, sofas, pictures, and statuary, which
+are disposed here and there throughout.
+
+All this, however, I passed rapidly by as I ascended the staircase, and
+passed onward to the picture gallery. This was a room about a hundred
+feet long by forty wide, surmounted by a dome gorgeously finished with
+golden palm, trees and carving. This hall is lighted in the evening by a
+row of gaslights placed outside the ground glass of the dome; this light
+is concentrated and thrown down by strong reflectors, communicating thus
+the most brilliant radiance without the usual heat of gas. This gallery
+is peculiarly rich in paintings of the Spanish school. Among them are
+two superb Murillos, taken from convents by Marshal Soult, during the
+time of his career in Spain.
+
+There was a painting by Paul de la Roche of the Earl of Strafford led
+forth to execution, engravings of which we have seen in the print shops
+in America. It is a strong and striking picture, and has great dramatic
+effect. But there was a painting in one corner by a Flemish artist,
+whose name I do not now remember, representing Christ under examination
+before Caiaphas. It was a candle-light scene, and only two faces were
+very distinct; the downcast, calm, resolute face of Christ, in which was
+written a perfect knowledge of his approaching doom, and the eager,
+perturbed vehemence of the high priest, who was interrogating him. On
+the frame was engraved the lines,--
+
+  "He was wounded for our transgressions,
+  He was bruised for our iniquities;
+  The chastisement of our peace was upon him,
+  And with his stripes we are healed."
+
+The presence of this picture here in the midst of this scene was very
+affecting to me.
+
+The company now began to assemble and throng the gallery, and very soon
+the vast room was crowded. Among the throng I remember many
+presentations, but of course must have forgotten many more. Archbishop
+Whately was there, with Mrs. and Miss Whately; Macaulay, with two of
+his sisters; Milman, the poet and historian; the Bishop of Oxford,
+Chevalier Bunsen and lady, and many more.
+
+When all the company were together Lord Shaftesbury read a very short,
+kind, and considerate address in behalf of the ladies of England,
+expressive of their cordial welcome. The address will be seen in the
+Morning Advertiser, which I send you. The company remained a while after
+this, walking through the rooms and conversing in different groups, and
+I talked with several. Archbishop Whately, I thought, seemed rather
+inclined to be jocose: he seems to me like some of our American divines;
+a man who pays little attention to forms, and does not value them. There
+is a kind of brusque humor in his address, a downright heartiness, which
+reminds one of western character. If he had been born in our latitude,
+in Kentucky or Wisconsin, the natives would have called him Whately, and
+said he was a real steamboat on an argument. This is not precisely the
+kind of man we look for in an archbishop. One sees traces of this humor
+in his Historic Doubts concerning the Existence of Napoleon. I conversed
+with some who knew him intimately, and they said that he delighted in
+puns and odd turns of language.
+
+I was also introduced to the Bishop of Oxford, who is a son of
+Wilberforce. He is a short man, of very youthful appearance, with bland,
+graceful, courteous manners. He is much admired as a speaker. I heard
+him spoken of as one of the most popular preachers of the day.
+
+I must not forget to say that many ladies of the society of Friends were
+here, and one came and put on to my arm a reticule, in which, she said,
+were carried about the very first antislavery tracts ever distributed in
+England. At that time the subject of antislavery was as unpopular in
+England as it can be at this day any where in the world, and I trust
+that a day will come when the subject will be as popular in South
+Carolina as it is now in England. People always glory in the right after
+they have done it.
+
+After a while the company dispersed over the house to look at the rooms.
+There are all sorts of parlors and reception rooms, furnished with the
+same correct taste. Each room had its predominant color; among them blue
+was a particular favorite.
+
+The carpets were all of those small figures I have described, the blue
+ones being of the same pattern with the green. The idea, I suppose, is
+to produce a mass of color of a certain tone, and not to distract the
+eye with the complicated pattern. Where so many objects of art and
+_virtu_ are to be exhibited, without this care in regulating and
+simplifying the ground tints, there would be no unity in the impression.
+This was my philosophizing on the matter, and if it is not the reason
+why it is done, it ought to be. It is as good a theory as most theories,
+at any rate.
+
+Before we went away I made a little call on the Lady Constance
+Grosvenor, and saw the future Marquis of Westminster, heir to the
+largest estate in England. His beautiful mother is celebrated in the
+annals of the court journal as one of the handsomest ladies in England.
+His little lordship was presented to me in all the dignity of long,
+embroidered clothes, being then, I believe, not quite a fortnight old,
+and I can assure you that he demeaned himself with a gravity becoming
+his rank and expectations.
+
+There is a more than common interest attached to these children by one
+who watches the present state of the world. On the character and
+education of the princes and nobility of this generation the future
+history of England must greatly depend.
+
+This Stafford House meeting, in any view of it, is a most remarkable
+fact. Kind and gratifying as its arrangements have been to me, I am far
+from appropriating it to myself individually, as a personal honor. I
+rather regard it as the most public expression possible of the feelings
+of the women of England on one of the most important questions of our
+day--that, of individual liberty considered in its religious bearings.
+
+The most splendid of England's palaces has this day opened its doors to
+the slave. Its treasures of wealth and of art, its prestige of high name
+and historic memories, have been consecrated to the acknowledgment of
+Christianity in that form, wherein, in our day, it is most frequently
+denied--the recognition of the brotherhood of the human family, and the
+equal religious value of every human soul. A fair and noble hand by this
+meeting has fixed, in the most public manner, an ineffaceable seal to
+the beautiful sentiments of that most Christian document, the letter of
+the ladies of Great Britain to the ladies of America. That letter and
+this public attestation of it are now historic facts, which wait their
+time and the judgment of advancing Christianity.
+
+Concerning that letter I have one or two things to say. Nothing can be
+more false than the insinuation that has been thrown out in some
+American papers, that it was a political movement. It had its first
+origin in the deep religious feelings of the man whose whole life has
+been devoted to the abolition of the white-labor slavery of Great
+Britain; the man whose eye explored the darkness of the collieries, and
+counted the weary steps of the cotton spinners--who penetrated the dens
+where the insane were tortured with darkness, and cold, and stripes; and
+threaded the loathsome alleys of London, haunts of fever and cholera:
+this man it was, whose heart was overwhelmed by the tale of American
+slavery, and who could find no relief from, this distress except in
+raising some voice to the ear of Christianity. Fearful of the jealousy
+of political interference, Lord Shaftesbury published an address to the
+ladies of England, in which he told them that he felt himself moved by
+an irresistible impulse to entreat them to raise their voice, in the
+name of a common Christianity and womanhood, to their American sisters.
+The abuse which has fallen upon him for this most Christian proceeding
+does not in the least surprise him, because it is of the kind that has
+always met him in every benevolent movement. When in the Parliament of
+England he was pleading for women in the collieries who were harnessed
+like beasts of burden, and made to draw heavy loads through miry and
+dark passages, and for children who were taken at three years old to
+labor where the sun never shines, he was met with determined and furious
+opposition and obloquy--accused of being a disorganizer, and of wishing
+to restore the dark ages. Very similar accusations have attended all his
+efforts for the laboring classes during the long course of seventeen
+years, which resulted at last in the triumphant passage of the factory
+bill.
+
+We in America ought to remember that the gentle remonstrance of the
+letter of the ladies of England contains, in the mildest form, the
+sentiments of universal Christendom. Rebukes much more pointed are
+coming back to us even from, our own missionaries. A day is coming when,
+past all the temporary currents of worldly excitement, we shall, each of
+us, stand alone face to face with the perfect purity of our Redeemer.
+The thought of such a final interview ought certainly to modify all our
+judgments now, that we may strive to approve only what we shall then
+approve.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+
+MY DEAR C.:--
+
+As to those ridiculous stories about the Duchess of Sutherland, which
+have found their way into many of the prints in America, one has only to
+be here, moving in society, to see how excessively absurd they are.
+
+All my way through Scotland, and through England, I was associating,
+from day to day, with people of every religious denomination, and every
+rank of life. I have been with, dissenters and with churchmen; with the
+national Presbyterian church and the free Presbyterian; with Quakers and
+Baptists.
+
+In all these circles I have heard the great and noble of the land freely
+spoken of and canvassed, and if there had been the least shadow of a
+foundation for any such accusations, I certainly should have heard it
+recognized in some manner. If in no other, such warm friends as I have
+heard speak would have alluded to the subject in the way of defence; but
+I have actually never heard any allusion of any sort, as if there was
+any thing to be explained or accounted for.
+
+As I have before intimated, the Howard family, to which the duchess
+belongs, is one which has always been on the side of popular rights and
+popular reform. Lord Carlisle, her brother, has been a leader of the
+people, particularly during the time of the corn-law reformation, and
+_she_ has been known to take a wide and generous interest in all these
+subjects. Every where that I have moved through Scotland and England I
+have heard her kindness of heart, her affability of manner, and her
+attention to the feelings of others spoken of as marked characteristics.
+
+Imagine, then, what people must think when they find in respectable
+American prints the absurd story of her turning her tenants out into the
+snow, and ordering the cottages to be set on fire over their heads
+because they would not go out.
+
+But, if you ask how such an absurd story could ever have been made up,
+whether there is the least foundation to make it on, I answer, that it
+is the exaggerated report of a movement made by the present Duke of
+Sutherland's father, in the year 1811, and which was part of a great
+movement that passed through, the Highlands of Scotland, when the
+advancing progress of civilization began to make it necessary to change
+the estates from military to agricultural establishments.
+
+Soon after the union of the crowns of England and Scotland, the border
+chiefs found it profitable to adopt upon their estates that system, of
+agriculture to which their hills were adapted, rather than to continue
+the maintenance of military retainers. Instead of keeping garrisons,
+with small armies, in a district, they decided to keep only so many as
+could profitably cultivate the land. The effect of this, of course, was
+like disbanding an army. It threw many people out of employ, and forced
+them to seek for a home elsewhere. Like many other movements which, in
+their final results, are beneficial to society, this was at first
+vehemently resisted, and had to be carried into effect in some cases by
+force. As I have said, it began first in the southern counties of
+Scotland, soon after the union of the English and Scottish crowns, and
+gradually crept northward--one county after another yielding to the
+change. To a certain extent, as it progressed northward, the demand for
+labor in the great towns absorbed the surplus population; but when it
+came into the extreme Highlands, this refuge was wanting. Emigration to
+America now became the resource; and the surplus population were induced
+to this by means such as the Colonization Society now recommends and
+approves for promoting emigration to Liberia.
+
+The first farm that was so formed on the Sutherland estate was in 1806.
+The great change was made in 1811-12, and completed in 1819-20.
+
+The Sutherland estates are in the most northern portion of Scotland. The
+distance of this district from the more advanced parts of the kingdom,
+the total want of roads, the unfrequent communication by sea, and the
+want of towns, made it necessary to adopt a different course in regard
+to the location of the Sutherland population from that which
+circumstances had provided in other parts of Scotland, where they had
+been removed from the bleak and uncultivable mountains. They had lots
+given them near the sea, or in more fertile spots, where, by labor and
+industry, they might maintain themselves. They had two years allowed
+them for preparing for the change, without payment of rent. Timber for
+their houses was given, and many other facilities for assisting their
+change.
+
+The general agent of the Sutherland estate is Mr. Loch. In a speech of
+this gentleman in the House of Commons, on the second reading of the
+Scotch poor-law bill, June 12, 1845, he states the following fact with
+regard to the management of the Sutherland estate during this period,
+from 1811 to 1833, which certainly can speak for itself: "I can state as
+from fact that, from 1811 to 1833, not one sixpence of rent has been
+received from that county, but, on the contrary, there has been sent
+there, for the benefit and improvement of the people, a sum exceeding
+sixty thousand pounds."
+
+Mr. Loch goes on in the same speech to say, "There is no set of people
+more industrious than the people of Sutherland. Thirty years since they
+were engaged in illegal distillation to a very great extent; at the
+present moment there is not, I believe, an illegal still in the county.
+Their morals have improved as those habits have been abandoned; and they
+have added many hundreds, I believe thousands, of acres to the land in
+cultivation since they were placed upon the shore.
+
+"Previous to that change to which I have referred, they exported very
+few cattle, and hardly any thing else. They were, also, every now and
+then, exposed to all the difficulties of extreme famine. In the years
+1812-13, and 1816-17, so great was the misery that it was necessary to
+send down oatmeal for their supply to the amount of nine thousand
+pounds, and that was given to the people. But, since industrious habits
+were introduced, and they were settled within reach of fishing, no such
+calamity has overtaken them. Their condition was then so low that they
+were obliged to bleed their cattle, during the winter, and mix the blood
+with the remnant of meal they had, in order to save them from
+starvation.
+
+"Since then the country has improved so much that the fish, in
+particular, which they exported, in 1815, from one village alone,
+Helmsdale, (which, previous to 1811, did not exist,) amounted to five
+thousand three hundred and eighteen barrels of herring, and in 1844
+thirty-seven thousand five hundred and ninety-four barrels, giving
+employment to about three thousand nine hundred people. This extends
+over the whole of the county, in which fifty-six thousand barrels were
+cured.
+
+"Do not let me be supposed to say that there are not cases requiring
+attention: it must be so in a large population; but there can be no
+means taken by a landlord, or by those under him, that are not bestowed
+upon that tenantry.
+
+"It has been said that the contribution by the heritor (the duke) to one
+kirk session for the poor was but six pounds. Now, in the eight parishes
+which are called Sutherland proper, the amount of the contribution of
+the Duke of Sutherland to the kirk session is forty-two pounds a year.
+That is a very small sum but that sum merely is so given because the
+landlord thinks that he can distribute his charity in a more beneficial
+manner to the people; and the amount of charity which he gives--and
+which, I may say, is settled on them, for it is given regularly--is
+above four hundred and fifty pounds a year.
+
+"Therefore the statements that have been made, so far from being
+correct, are in every way an exaggeration of what is the fact. No
+portion of the kingdom has advanced in prosperity so much; and if the
+honorable member (Mr. S. Crawford) will go down there, I will give him
+every facility for seeing the state of the people, and he shall judge
+with his own eyes whether my representation be not correct. I could go
+through a great many other particulars, but I will not trouble the house
+now with them. The statements I have made are accurate, and I am quite
+ready to prove them in any way that is necessary."
+
+This same Mr. Loch has published a pamphlet, in which he has traced out
+the effects of the system pursued on the Sutherland estate, in many very
+important particulars. It appears from this that previously to 1811 the
+people were generally sub-tenants to middle men, who exacted high rents,
+and also various perquisites, such as the delivery of poultry and eggs,
+giving so many days' labor in harvest time, cutting and carrying peat
+and stones for building.
+
+Since 1811 the people have become immediate tenants, at a greatly
+diminished rate of rent, and released from all these exactions. For
+instance, in two parishes, in 1812, the rents were one thousand five
+hundred and ninety-three pounds, and in 1823 they were only nine hundred
+and seventy-two pounds. In another parish the reduction of rents has
+amounted, on an average, to thirty-six per cent. Previous to 1811 the
+houses were turf huts of the poorest description, in many instances the
+cattle being kept under the same roof with the family. Since 1811 a
+large proportion, of their houses have been rebuilt in a superior
+manner--the landlord having paid them for their old timber where it
+could not be moved, and having also contributed the new timber, with
+lime.
+
+Before 1811 all the rents of the estates were used for the personal
+profit of the landlord; but since that time, both by the present duke
+and his father, all the rents have been expended on improvements in the
+county, besides sixty thousand pounds more which have been remitted
+from. England for the purpose. This money has been spent on churches,
+school houses, harbors, public inns, roads, and bridges.
+
+In 1811 there was not a carriage road in the county, and only two
+bridges. Since that time four hundred and thirty miles of road have been
+constructed on the estate, at the expense of the proprietor and tenants.
+There is not a turnpike gate in the county, and yet the roads are kept
+perfect.
+
+Before 1811 the mail was conveyed entirely by a foot runner, and there
+was but one post office in the county; and there was no direct post
+across the county, but letters to the north and west were forwarded
+once a month. A mail coach has since been established, to which the late
+Duke of Sutherland contributed more than two thousand six hundred
+pounds; and since 1834 mail gigs have been established to convey letters
+to the north and west coast, towards which the Duke of Sutherland
+contributes three hundred pounds a year. There are thirteen post offices
+and sub-offices in the county. Before 1811 there was no inn in the
+county fit for the reception of strangers. Since that time there have
+been fourteen inns either built or enlarged by the duke.
+
+Before 1811 there was scarcely a cart on the estate; all the carriage
+was done on the backs of ponies. The cultivation of the interior was
+generally executed with a rude kind of spade, and there was not a gig in
+the county. In 1845 there were one thousand one hundred and thirty carts
+owned on the estate, and seven hundred and eight ploughs, also forty-one
+gigs.
+
+Before 1812 there was no baker, and only two shops. In 1845 there were
+eight bakers and forty-six grocer's shops, in nearly all of which shoe
+blacking was sold to some extent, an unmistakable evidence of advancing
+civilization.
+
+In 1808 the cultivation of the coast side of Sutherland was so defective
+that it was necessary often, in a fall of snow, to cut down the young
+Scotch firs to feed the cattle on; and in 1808 hay had to be imported.
+_Now_ the coast side of Sutherland exhibits an extensive district of
+land cultivated according to the best principles of modern agriculture;
+several thousand acres have been added to the arable land by these
+improvements.
+
+Before 1811 there were no woodlands of any extent on the estate, and
+timber had to be obtained from a distance. Since that time many
+thousand acres of woodland have been planted, the thinnings of which,
+being sold to the people at a moderate rate, have greatly increased
+their comfort and improved their domestic arrangements.
+
+Before 1811 there were only two blacksmiths in the county. In 1845 there
+were forty-two blacksmiths and sixty-three carpenters. Before 1829 the
+exports of the county consisted of black cattle of an inferior
+description, pickled salmon, and some ponies; but these were precarious
+sources of profit, as many died in winter for want of food; for example,
+in the spring of 1807 two hundred cows, five hundred cattle, and more
+than two hundred ponies died in the parish of Kildonan alone. Since that
+time the measures pursued by the Duke of Sutherland, in introducing
+improved breeds of cattle, pigs, and modes of agriculture, have produced
+results in exports which tell their own story. About forty thousand
+sheep and one hundred and eighty thousand fleeces of wool are exported
+annually; also fifty thousand barrels of herring.
+
+The whole fishing village of Helmsdale has been built since that time.
+It now contains from thirteen to fifteen curing yards covered with
+slate, and several streets with houses similarly built. The herring
+fishery, which has been mentioned as so productive, has been established
+since the change, and affords employment to three thousand nine hundred
+people.
+
+Since 1811, also, a savings bank has been established in every parish,
+of which the Duke of Sutherland is patron and treasurer, and the savings
+have been very considerable.
+
+The education of the children of the people has been a subject of deep
+interest to the Duke of Sutherland. Besides the parochial schools,
+(which answer, I suppose, to our district schools,) of which the
+greater number have been rebuilt or repaired at an expense exceeding
+what is legally required for such purposes, the Duke of Sutherland
+contributes to the support of several schools for young females, at
+which sewing and other branches of education are taught; and in 1844 he
+agreed to establish twelve general assembly schools in such parts of the
+county as were without the sphere of the parochial schools, and to build
+school and schoolmasters' houses, which will, upon an average, cost two
+hundred pounds each; and to contribute annually two hundred pounds in
+aid of salaries to the teachers, besides a garden and cows' grass; and
+in 1845 he made an arrangement with the education committee of the Free
+church, whereby no child, of whatever persuasion, will be beyond the
+reach of moral and religious education.
+
+There are five medical gentlemen on the estate, three of whom receive
+allowances from the Duke of Sutherland for attendance on the poor in the
+districts in which they reside.
+
+An agricultural association, or farmers' club, has been formed under the
+patronage of the Duke of Sutherland, of which the other proprietors in
+the county, and the larger tenantry, are members, which is in a very
+active and flourishing state. They have recently invited Professor
+Johnston to visit Sutherland, and give lectures on agricultural
+chemistry.
+
+The total population of the Sutherland estate is twenty-one thousand
+seven hundred and eighty-four. To have the charge and care of so large
+an estate, of course, must require very systematic arrangements; but a
+talent for system seems to be rather the forte of the English.
+
+The estate is first divided into three districts, and each district is
+under the superintendence of a factor, who communicates with the duke
+through a general agent. Besides this, when the duke is on the estate,
+which is during a portion of every year, he receives on Monday whoever
+of his tenants wishes to see him. Their complaints or wishes are
+presented in writing; he takes them into consideration, and gives
+written replies.
+
+Besides the three factors there is a ground officer, or sub-factor, in
+every parish, and an agriculturist in the Dunrobin district, who gives
+particular attention to instructing the people in the best methods of
+farming. The factors, the ground officers, and the agriculturists all
+work to one common end. They teach the advantages of draining; of
+ploughing deep, and forming their ridges in straight lines; of
+constructing tanks for saving liquid manure. The young farmers also pick
+up a great deal of knowledge when working as ploughmen or laborers on
+the more immediate grounds of the estate.
+
+The head agent, Mr. Loch, has been kind enough to put into my hands a
+general report of the condition of the estate, which he drew up for the
+inspection of the duke, May 12, 1853, and in which he goes minutely over
+the condition of every part of the estate.
+
+One anecdote of the former Duke of Sutherland will show the spirit which
+has influenced the family in their management of the estate. In 1817,
+when there was much suffering on account of bad seasons, the Duke of
+Sutherland sent down his chief agent to look into the condition of the
+people, who desired the ministers of the parishes to send in their lists
+of the poor. To his surprise it was found that there were located on the
+estate a number of people who had settled there without leave. They
+amounted to four hundred and eight families, or two thousand persons;
+and though they had no legal title to remain where they were, no
+hesitation was shown in supplying them with food in the same manner
+with those who were tenants, on the sole condition that on the first
+opportunity they should take cottages on the sea shore, and become
+industrious people. It was the constant object of the duke to keep the
+rents of his poorer tenants at a nominal amount.
+
+What led me more particularly to inquire into these facts was, that I
+received by mail, while in London, an account containing some of these
+stories, which had been industriously circulated in America. There were
+dreadful accounts of cruelties practised in the process of inducing the
+tenants to change their places of residence. The following is a specimen
+of these stories:--
+
+     "I was present at the pulling down and burning of the house of
+     William Chisholm, Badinloskin, in which was lying his wife's
+     mother, an old, bed-ridden woman of near one hundred years of age,
+     none of the family being present. I informed the persons about to
+     set fire to the house of this circumstance, and prevailed on them
+     to wait till Mr. Sellar came. On his arrival I told him of the poor
+     old woman being in a condition unfit for removal. He replied, 'Damn
+     her, the old witch, she has lived too long; let her burn.' Fire was
+     immediately set to the house, and the blankets in which she was
+     carried were in flames before she could be got out. She was placed
+     in a little shed, and it was with great difficulty they were
+     prevented from firing that also. The old woman's daughter arrived
+     while the house was on fire, and assisted the neighbors in removing
+     her mother out of the flames and smoke, presenting a picture of
+     horror which I shall never forget, but cannot attempt to describe.
+     She died within five days."
+
+With regard to this story Mr. Loch, the agent, says, "I must notice the
+only thing like a fact stated in the newspaper extract which you sent to
+me, wherein Mr. Sellar is accused of acts of cruelty towards some of the
+people. This Mr. Sellar tested, by bringing an action against the then
+sheriff substitute of the county. He obtained a verdict for heavy
+damages. The sheriff, by whom, the slander was propagated, left the
+county. Both are since dead."
+
+Having, through Lord Shaftesbury's kindness, received the benefit of Mr.
+Loch's corrections to this statement, I am permitted to make a little
+further extract from his reply. He says,--
+
+"In addition to what I was able to say in my former paper, I can now
+state that the Duke of Sutherland has received, from, one of the most
+determined opposers of the measure, who travelled to the north of
+Scotland as editor of a newspaper, a letter regretting all he had
+written on the subject, being convinced that he was entirely
+misinformed. As you take so much interest in the subject, I will
+conclude by saying that nothing could exceed the prosperity of the
+county during the past year; their stock, sheep, and other things sold
+at high prices; their crops of grain and turnips were never so good, and
+the potatoes were free from all disease; rents have been paid better
+than was ever known. * * * As an instance of the improved habits of the
+farmers, no house is now built for them that they do not require a hot
+bath and water closets."
+
+From this long epitome you can gather the following results; first, if
+the system were a bad one, the Duchess of Sutherland had nothing to do
+with it, since it was first introduced in 1806, the same year her grace
+was born; and the accusation against Mr. Sellar dates in 1811, when her
+grace was five or six years old. The Sutherland arrangements were
+completed in 1819, and her grace was not married to the duke till 1823,
+so that, had the arrangement been the worst in the world, it is nothing
+to the purpose so far as she is concerned.
+
+As to whether the arrangement _is_ a bad one, the facts which have been
+stated speak for themselves. To my view it is an almost sublime instance
+of the benevolent employment of superior wealth and power in shortening
+the struggles of advancing civilization, and elevating in a few years a
+whole community to a point of education and material prosperity, which,
+unassisted, they might never have obtained,
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+
+LONDON, Sunday, May 8.
+
+MY DEAR S.:--
+
+Mr. S. is very unwell, in bed, worn out with, the threefold labor of
+making and receiving calls, visiting, and delivering public addresses.
+C. went to hear Dr. McNeile, of Liverpool, preach--one of the leading
+men of the established church evangelical party, a strong millenarian.
+C. said that he was as fine a looking person in canonicals as he ever
+saw in the pulpit. In doctrine he is what we in America should call very
+strong old school. I went, as I had always predetermined to do, if ever
+I came to London, to hear Baptist Noel, drawn thither by the melody and
+memory of those beautiful hymns of his[N], which must meet a response in
+every Christian heart. He is tall and well formed, with one of the most
+classical and harmonious heads I ever saw. Singularly enough, he
+reminded me of a bust of Achilles at the London Museum. He is indeed a
+swift-footed Achilles, but in another race, another warfare. Born of a
+noble family, naturally endowed with sensitiveness and ideality to
+appreciate all the amenities and suavities of that brilliant sphere, the
+sacrifice must have been inconceivably great for him to renounce favor
+and preferment, position in society,--which, here in England, means more
+than Americans can ever dream of,--to descend from being a court
+chaplain, to become a preacher in a Baptist dissenting chapel. Whatever
+may be thought of the correctness of the intellectual conclusions which
+led him to such a step, no one can fail to revere the strength and
+purity of principle which could prompt to such sacrifices. Many,
+perhaps, might have preferred that he should have chosen a less decided
+course. But if his judgment really led to these results, I see no way in
+which it was possible for him to have avoided it. It was with an emotion
+of reverence that I contrasted the bareness, plainness, and poverty of
+the little chapel with that evident air of elegance and cultivation
+which appeared in all that he said and did. The sermon was on the text,
+"Now abideth faith, hope, and charity, these three." Naturally enough,
+the subject divided itself into faith, hope, and charity.
+
+His style calm, flowing, and perfectly harmonious, his delivery serene
+and graceful, the whole flowed over one like a calm and clear strain of
+music. It was a sermon after the style of Tholuck and other German
+sermonizers, who seem to hold that the purpose of preaching is not to
+rouse the soul by an antagonistic struggle with sin through the reason,
+but to soothe the passions, quiet the will, and bring the mind into a
+frame in which it shall incline to follow its own convictions of duty.
+They take for granted, that the reason why men sin is not because they
+are ignorant, but because they are distracted and tempted by passion;
+that they do not need so much to be told what is their duty, as
+persuaded to do it. To me, brought up on the very battle field of
+controversial theology, accustomed to hear every religious idea guarded
+by definitions, and thoroughly hammered on a logical anvil before the
+preacher thought of making any use of it for heart or conscience,
+though I enjoyed the discourse extremely, I could not help wondering
+what an American theological professor would make of such a sermon.
+
+To preach on faith, hope, and charity all in one discourse--why, we
+should have six sermons on the nature of faith to begin with: on
+speculative faith; saving faith; practical faith, and the faith of
+miracles; then we should have the laws of faith, and the connection of
+faith with evidence, and the nature of evidence, and the different kinds
+of evidence, and so on. For my part I have had a suspicion since I have
+been here, that a touch of this kind of thing might improve English
+preaching; as, also, I do think that sermons of the kind I have
+described would be useful, by way of alterative, among us. If I could
+have but one of the two manners, I should prefer our own, because I
+think that this habit of preaching is one of the strongest educational
+forces that forms the mind of our country.
+
+After the service was over I went into the vestry, and was introduced to
+Mr. Noel. The congregation of the established church, to which he
+ministered during his connection with it, are still warmly attached to
+him. His leaving them was a dreadful trial; some of them can scarcely
+mention his name without tears. C. says, with regard to the church
+singing, as far as he heard it, it is twenty years behind that in
+Boston. In the afternoon I staid at home to nurse Mr. S. A note from
+Lady John Russell inviting us there.
+
+Monday, May 9. I should tell you that at the Duchess of Sutherland's an
+artist, named Burnard, presented me with a very fine cameo head of
+Wilberforce, cut from a statue in Westminster Abbey. He is from
+Cornwall, in the south of England, and has attained some celebrity as an
+artist. He wanted to take a bust of me; and though it always makes me
+laugh to think of having a new likeness, considering the melancholy
+results of all former enterprises, yet still I find myself easy to be
+entreated, in hopes, as Mr. Micawber says, that something may "turn up,"
+though I fear the difficulty is radical in the subject. So I made an
+appointment with Mr. Burnard, and my very kind friend, Mr. B., in
+addition to all the other confusions I have occasioned in his mansion,
+consented to have his study turned into a studio. Upon the heels of this
+comes another sculptor, who has a bust begun, which he says is going to
+be finished in Parian, and published whether I sit for it or not,
+though, of course, he would much prefer to get a look at me now and
+then. Well, Mr. B. says he may come, too; so there you may imagine me in
+the study, perched upon a very high stool, dividing my glances between
+the two sculptors, one of whom, is taking one side of my face, and one
+the other.
+
+To-day I went with Mr. and Mrs. B. to hear the examination of a
+borough-school for boys. Mrs. B. told me it was not precisely a charity
+school, but one where the means of education were furnished at so cheap
+a rate, that the poorest classes could enjoy them. Arrived at the hall,
+we found quite a number of _distingués_, bishops, lords, and clergy,
+besides numbers of others assembled to hear. The room was hung round
+with the drawings of the boys, and specimens of handwriting. I was quite
+astonished at some of them. They were executed by pen, pencil, or
+crayon--drawings of machinery, landscapes, heads, groups, and flowers,
+all in a style which any parent among us would be proud to exhibit, if
+done by our own children. The boys looked very bright and intelligent,
+and I was delighted with the system, of instruction which had evidently
+been pursued with them. We heard them first in the reading and
+recitation of poetry; after that in arithmetic and algebra, then in
+natural philosophy, and last, and most satisfactorily, in the Bible. It
+was perfectly evident from the nature of the questions and answers, that
+it was not a crammed examination, and that the readiness of reply
+proceeded not from a mere commitment of words, but from a system of
+intellectual training, which led to a good understanding of the subject.
+In arithmetic and algebra the answers were so remarkable as to induce
+the belief in some that the boys must have been privately prepared on
+their questions; but the teacher desired Lord John Russell to write down
+any number of questions which he wished to have given to the toys to
+solve, from his own mind. Lord John wrote down two or three problems,
+and I was amused at the zeal and avidity with which the boys seized upon
+and mastered them. Young England was evidently wide awake, and the prime
+minister himself was not to catch them, napping. The little fellows'
+eyes-glistened as they rattled off their solutions. As I know nothing
+about mathematics, I was all the more impressed; but when they came to
+be examined in the Bible, I was more astonished than ever. The masters
+had said that they would be willing any of the gentlemen should question
+them, and Mr. B. commenced a course of questions on the doctrines of
+Christianity; asking, Is there any text by which you can prove this, or
+that? and immediately, with great accuracy, the boys would cite text
+upon text, quoting not only the more obvious ones, but sometimes
+applying Scripture with an ingenuity and force which I had not thought
+of, and always quoting chapter and verse of every text. I do not know
+who is at the head of this teaching, nor how far it is a sample of
+English schools; but I know that these boys had been wonderfully well
+taught, and I felt all my old professional enthusiasm arising.
+
+After the examination Lord John came forward, and gave the boys a good
+fatherly talk. He told them that they had the happiness to live under a
+free government, where all offices are alike open to industry and merit,
+and where any boy might hope by application and talent to rise to any
+station below that of the sovereign. He made some sensible, practical
+comments, on their Scripture lessons, and, in short, gave precisely such
+a kind of address as one of our New England judges or governors might to
+schoolboys in similar circumstances. Lord John hesitates a little in his
+delivery, but has a plain, common-sense way of "speaking right on,"
+which seems to be taking. He is a very simple man in his manners,
+apparently not at all self-conscious, and entered into the feelings of
+the boys and the masters with good-natured sympathy, which was very
+winning. I should think he was one of the kind of men who are always
+perfectly easy and self-possessed let what will come, and who never
+could be placed in a situation in which he did not feel himself quite at
+home, and perfectly competent to do whatever was to be done.
+
+To-day the Duchess of Sutherland called with the Duchess of Argyle. Miss
+Greenfield happened to be present, and I begged leave to present her,
+giving a slight sketch of her history. I was pleased with the kind and
+easy affability with which the Duchess of Sutherland conversed with her,
+betraying by no inflection of voice, and nothing in air or manner, the
+great lady talking with the poor girl. She asked all her questions with
+as much delicacy, and made her request to hear her sing with as much
+consideration and politeness, as if she had been addressing any one in
+her own circle. She seemed much pleased with her singing, and remarked
+that she should be happy to give her an opportunity of performing in
+Stafford House, so soon as she should be a little relieved of a heavy
+cold which seemed to oppress her at present. This, of course, will be
+decisive in her favor in London. The duchess is to let us know when the
+arrangement is completed.
+
+I never realized so much that there really is no natural prejudice
+against color in the human mind. Miss Greenfield is a dark mulattress,
+of a pleasing and gentle face, though by no means handsome. She is short
+and thick set, with a chest of great amplitude, as one would think on
+hearing her tenor. I have never seen in any of the persons to whom I
+have presented her the least indications of suppressed surprise or
+disgust, any more than we should exhibit on the reception of a
+dark-complexioned Spaniard or Portuguese. Miss Greenfield bears her
+success with much quietness and good sense.
+
+Tuesday, May 10. C. and I were to go to-day, with Mrs. Cropper and Lady
+Hatherton, to call on the poet Rogers. I was told that he was in very
+delicate health, but that he still received friends at his house. We
+found the house a perfect cabinet collection of the most rare and costly
+works of art--choicest marbles, vases, pictures, gems, and statuary met
+the eye every where. We spent the time in examining some of these while
+the servant went to announce us. The mild and venerable old man himself
+was the choicest picture of all. He has a splendid head, a benign face,
+and reminded me of an engraving I once saw of Titian. He seemed very
+glad to see us, spoke to me of the gathering at Stafford House, and
+asked me what I thought of the place. When I expressed my admiration, he
+said, "Ah, I have often said it is a fairy palace, and that the duchess
+is the good fairy." Again, he said, "I have seen all the palaces of
+Europe, but there is none that I prefer to this." Quite a large circle
+of friends now came in and were presented. He did not rise to receive
+them, but sat back in his easy chair, and conversed quietly with us all,
+sparkling out now and then in a little ripple of playfulness. In this
+room were his best beloved pictures, and it is his pleasure to show them
+to his friends.
+
+By a contrivance quite new to me, the pictures are made to revolve on a
+pivot, so that by touching a spring they move out from the wall, and can
+be seen in different lights. There was a picture over the mantel-piece
+of a Roman Triumphal Procession, painted by Rubens, which attracted my
+attention by its rich coloring and spirited representation of animals.
+
+The coloring of Rubens always satisfies my eye better than that of any
+other master, only a sort of want of grace in the conception disturbs
+me. In this case both conception and coloring are replete with beauty.
+Rogers seems to be carefully waited on by an attendant who has learned
+to interpret every motion and anticipate every desire.
+
+I took leave of him with a touch of sadness. Of all the brilliant circle
+of poets, which has so delighted us, he is the last--and he so feeble!
+His memories, I am told, extend back to a personal knowledge of Dr.
+Johnson. How I should like to sit by him, and search into that cabinet
+of recollections! He presented me his poems, beautifully illustrated by
+Turner, with his own autograph on the fly leaf. He writes still a clear,
+firm, beautiful hand, like a lady's.
+
+After that, we all went over to Stafford House, and the Duke and
+Duchess of Sutherland went with us into Lord Ellesmere's collection
+adjoining. Lord Ellesmere sails for America to-day, to be present at the
+opening of the Crystal Palace. He left us a very polite message. The
+Duchess of Argyle, with her two little boys, was there also. Lord
+Carlisle very soon came in, and with him--who do you think? Tell Hattie
+and Eliza if they could have seen the noble staghound that came bounding
+in with him, they would have turned from all the pictures on the wall to
+this living work of art.
+
+Landseer thinks he does well when he paints a dog; another man chisels
+one in stone: what would they think of themselves if they could string
+the nerves and muscles, and wake up the affections and instincts, of the
+real, living creature? That were to be an artist indeed! The dog walked
+about the gallery, much at home, putting his nose up first to one and
+then another of the distinguished persons by whom he was surrounded; and
+once in a while stopping, in an easy race about the hall, would plant
+himself before a picture, with his head on one side, and an air of
+high-bred approval, much as I have seen young gentlemen do in similar
+circumstances. All he wanted was an eyeglass, and he would have been
+perfectly set up as a critic.
+
+As for the pictures, I have purposely delayed coming to them. Imagine a
+botanist dropped into the middle of a blooming prairie, waving with
+unnumbered dyes and forms of flowers, and only an hour to examine and
+make acquaintance with them! Room, after room we passed, filled with
+Titians, Murillos, Guidos, &c. There were four Raphaels, the first I had
+ever seen. Must I confess the truth? Raphael had been my dream for
+years. I expected something which would overcome and bewilder me. I
+expected a divine baptism, a celestial mesmerism; and I found four very
+beautiful pictures--pictures which left me quite in possession of my
+senses, and at liberty to ask myself, am I pleased, and how much? It was
+not that I did not admire, for I did; but that I did not admire enough.
+The pictures are all holy families, cabinet size: the figures, Mary,
+Joseph, the infant Jesus, and John, in various attitudes. A little
+perverse imp in my heart suggested the questions, "If a modern artist
+had painted these, what would be thought of them? If I did not know it
+was Raphael, what should I think?" And I confess that, in that case, I
+should think that there was in one or two of them a certain hardness and
+sharpness of outline that was not pleasing to me. Neither, any more than
+Murillo, has he in these pictures shadowed forth, to my eye, the idea of
+Mary. Protestant as I am, no Catholic picture contents me. I thought to
+myself that I had seen among living women, and in a face not far off, a
+nobler and sweeter idea of womanhood.
+
+It is too much to ask of any earthly artist, however, to gratify the
+aspirations and cravings of those who have dreamed of them for years
+unsatisfied. Perhaps no earthly canvas and brash can accomplish this
+marvel. I think the idealist must lay aside his highest ideal, and be
+satisfied he shall never meet it, and then he will begin to enjoy. With
+this mood and understanding I did enjoy very much an Assumption of the
+Virgin, by Guido, and more especially Diana and her Nymphs, by Titian:
+in this were that softness of outline, and that blending of light and
+shadow into each other, of which I felt the want in the Raphaels. I felt
+as if there was a perfection of cultivated art in this, a classical
+elegance, which, so far as it went, left the eye or mind nothing to
+desire. It seemed to me that Titian was a Greek painter, the painter of
+an etherealized sensuousness, which leaves the spiritual nature wholly
+unmoved, and therefore all that he attempts he attains. Raphael, on the
+contrary, has spiritualism; his works enter a sphere where at is more
+difficult to satisfy the soul; nay, perhaps from the nature of the case,
+impossible.
+
+There were some glorious pieces of sunshine by Cuyp. There was a massive
+sea piece by Turner, in which the strong solemn swell of the green
+waves, and the misty wreathings of clouds, were powerfully given.
+
+There was a highly dramatic piece, by Paul de la Roche, representing
+Charles I. in a guard room, insulted by the soldiery. He sits, pale,
+calm, and resolute, while they are puffing tobacco smoke in his face,
+and passing vulgar jokes. His thoughts appear to be far away, his eyes
+looking beyond them with an air of patient, proud weariness.
+
+Independently of the pleasure one receives from particular pictures in
+these galleries, there is a general exaltation, apart from, critical
+considerations, an excitement of the nerves, a kind of dreamy state,
+which is a gain in our experience. Often in a landscape we first single
+out particular objects,--this old oak,--that cascade,--that ruin,--and
+derive from them, an individual joy; then relapsing, we view the
+landscape as a whole, and seem, to be surrounded by a kind of atmosphere
+of thought, the result of the combined influence of all. This state,
+too, I think is not without its influence in educating the æsthetic
+sense.
+
+Even in pictures which we comparatively reject, because we see them, in
+the presence of superior ones, there is a wealth of beauty which would
+grow on us from day to day, could we see them, often. When I give a sigh
+to the thought that in our country we are of necessity, to a great
+extent, shut from the world of art, I then rejoice in the inspiriting
+thought that Nature is ever the superior. No tree painting can compare
+with a splendid elm, in the plenitude of its majesty. There are
+colorings beyond those of Rubens poured forth around us in every autumn
+scene; there are Murillos smiling by our household firesides; and as for
+Madonnas and Venuses, I think with Byron,--
+
+  "I've seen more splendid women, ripe and real,
+  Than all the nonsense of their stone ideal."
+
+Still, I long for the full advent of our American, day of art, already
+dawning auspiciously.
+
+After finishing our inspection, we went back to Stafford House to lunch.
+
+In the evening we went to Lord John Russell's. We found Lady Russell and
+her daughters sitting quietly around the evening lamp, quite by
+themselves. She is elegant and interesting in her personal appearance,
+and has the same charm of simplicity and sincerity of manner which we
+have found in so marry of the upper sphere. She is the daughter of the
+Earl of Minto, and the second wife of Lord John. We passed here an
+entirely quiet and domestic evening, with only the family circle. The
+conversation turned on various topics of practical benevolence,
+connected with the care and education of the poorer classes. Allusion
+being made to Mrs. Tyler's letter, Lady Russell expressed some concern
+lest the sincere and well-intended expression of the feeling of the
+English ladies might have done harm. I said that I did not think the
+spirit of Mrs. Tyler's letter was to be taken as representing the
+feeling of American ladies generally,--only of that class who are
+determined to maintain the rightfulness of slavery.
+
+It seems to me that the better and more thinking part of the higher
+classes in England have conscientiously accepted the responsibility
+which the world has charged upon them of elevating and educating the
+poorer classes. In every circle since I have been here in England, I
+have heard the subject discussed as one of paramount importance.
+
+One or two young gentlemen dropped in in the course of the evening, and
+the discourse branched out on the various topics of the day; such as the
+weather, literature, art, spiritual rappings, and table turnings, and
+all the floating et ceteras of life. Lady Russell apologized for the
+absence of Lord John in Parliament, and invited us to dine with, them at
+their residence in Richmond Park next week, when there is to be a
+parliamentary recess.
+
+We left about ten o'clock, and went to pass the night with our friends
+Mr. and Mrs. Cropper at their hotel, being engaged to breakfast at the
+West End in the morning.
+
+END OF VOLUME I.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote A: Since my return to the United States I have been informed
+that the Freewill Baptist denomination have adopted the same rigid
+principle of slavery exclusion that characterizes the Scotch Seceders
+and the Quakers. Let this be known to their honor.]
+
+[Footnote B: This venerated, and erudite jurist, the friend and
+biographer of the celebrated Lord Jeffrey, has recently died.]
+
+[Footnote C: This, alas! is no longer true. By the recent passage of the
+infamous Nebraska bill, this whole region, with the exception of two
+states already organized, is laid open to slavery. This faithless
+measure was nobly resisted by a large and able minority in
+Congress--honor to them.]
+
+[Footnote D: This most learned and amiable judge recently died, while in
+the very act of charging a jury.]
+
+[Footnote E: This resolution, drawn and offered, I think, by my
+hospitable friend, Mr. Binney, I have mislaid, and cannot find it. It
+was, however, in character and spirit, just what Mr. James here declares
+it to be.]
+
+[Footnote F: I have been told since my return, that there are some
+slaveholding Congregational churches in the south; but they have no
+connection with our New England churches, and certainly are not
+generally known as Congregationalists distinct from the Presbyterians.]
+
+[Footnote G: This has always been supposed and claimed in the United
+States. Now the time has come to test its truth. If there is this
+antislavery feeling in nine tenths of the people, the impudent iniquity
+of the Nebraska bill will call it forth.]
+
+[Footnote H: Eight years ago I conscientiously approved and zealously
+defended this course of the American Board. Subsequent events have
+satisfied me, that, in the present circumstances of our country, making
+concessions to slaveholders, however slightly, and with whatever
+motives, even if not wrong in principle, is productive of no good. It
+does but strengthen slavery, and makes its demands still more
+exorbitant, and neutralizes the power of gospel truth.]
+
+[Footnote I: This state of things is fast changing. Church members at
+the south now defend slavery as right. This is a new thing.]
+
+[Footnote J: When your chimney has smoked as long as ours, it will, may
+be, need sweeping too.]
+
+[Footnote K: Had I known all about New York and Boston which recent
+examinations have developed, I should have answered very differently.
+The fact is, that we in America can no longer congratulate ourselves on
+not having a degraded and miserable class in our cities, and it will be
+seen to be necessary for us to arouse to the very same efforts which,
+have been so successfully making in England.]
+
+[Footnote L: This idea is beautifully wrought out by Mrs. Jamieson in
+her Characteristics of the Women of Shakspeare, to which, the author is
+indebted for the suggestion.]
+
+[Footnote M: James Russell Lowell's "Beaver Brook."]
+
+[Footnote N: The hymns beginning with, these lines, "If human, kindness
+meet return," and "Behold where, in a mortal form," are specimens.]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Sunny Memories Of Foreign Lands,
+Volume 1 (of 2), by Harriet Elizabeth (Beecher) Stowe
+
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+<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+    "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
+<html lang="en-us" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+  <head>
+    <meta name="generator"
+    content="HTML Tidy for Linux/x86 (vers 1st November 2002), see www.w3.org" />
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" />
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" />
+    <link href="style.css" rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" />
+    <link rel="schema.DC" href="http://purl.org/DC/elements/1.0/" />
+    <meta name="author" content="Harriet Beecher Stowe" />
+    <meta name="DC.Creator" content="Harriet Beecher Stowe" />
+    <meta name="DC.Title" content="Sunny Memories of Foreign Lands" />
+    <meta name="DC.Date" content="November 2004" />
+    <meta name="DC.Language" content="en-us" />
+    <title>The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sunny Memories of Foreign Lands by Harriet
+    Beecher Stowe</title>
+  </head>
+  <body class="dgp">
+    <div class="text">
+      <div class="front">
+        <div class="titlePage">
+          <span class="docImprint">The Project Gutenberg EBook of</span><br />
+          <h1 class="titlePart">Sunny Memories of Foreign Lands, Volume 1 (of 2)</h1>
+          <br />
+           by<br />
+          <span class="docAuthor" style="font-size: x-large;">Harriet Beecher
+          Stowe</span><br />
+          <br />
+          <span class="docEdition">Edition 1</span> <span class="date">November
+          2004</span><br />
+          <span class="docDate">November 2004</span>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div" id="pgheader">
+          <div class="div">
+            <p class="noindent">This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost
+            and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+            re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License <a
+            href="#pglicense"><span class="ref">included with this eBook</span></a> or
+            online at <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/license"><span
+            class="xref">http://www.gutenberg.org/license</span></a></p>
+          </div>
+          <table class="dgp" summary="Edition Information">
+            <tbody>
+              <tr class="dgp">
+                <th class="dgp">Title:</th>
+                <td class="dgp">Sunny Memories of Foreign Lands, Volume 1 (of 2)</td>
+              </tr>
+              <tr class="dgp">
+                <th class="dgp">Author:</th>
+                <td class="dgp">Harriet Beecher Stowe</td>
+              </tr>
+              <tr class="dgp">
+                <th class="dgp">Release Date:</th>
+                <td class="dgp">November 2004 [EBook #13945]</td>
+              </tr>
+              <tr class="dgp">
+                <th class="dgp">Language:</th>
+                <td class="dgp">English</td>
+              </tr>
+            </tbody>
+          </table>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="doublepage" />
+        <div class="div" id="toc">
+          <a id="toc_1" name="toc_1"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Contents</h2>
+          <ul class="toc">
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_1">Contents</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_2">Preface</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a
+            href="#toc_3">Introductory</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_4">Breakfast In
+            Liverpool&mdash;April 11.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_5">Public Meeting In
+            Liverpool&mdash;April 13.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_6">Public Meeting In
+            Glasgow&mdash;April 15.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_7">Public Meeting In
+            Edinburgh&mdash;April 20.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_8">Public Meeting In
+            Aberdeen&mdash;April 21.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_9">Public Meeting In
+            Dundee&mdash;April 22.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_10">Address Of The
+            Students Of Glasgow University&mdash;April 25.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_11">Loud Mayor's
+            Dinner At The Mansion House, London&mdash;May 2.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_12">Stafford House
+            Reception&mdash;May 7.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_13">Congregational
+            Union&mdash;May 13.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_14">Royal Highland
+            School Society Dinner, At The Freemason's Tavern, London&mdash;May
+            14.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_15">Antislavery
+            Society, Exeter Hall&mdash;May 16.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_16">Soir&eacute;e At
+            Willis's Rooms&mdash;May 25.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_17">Concluding
+            Note.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_18">Letter I</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_19">Letter II</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_20">Letter
+            III</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_21">Letter IV</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_22">Letter V</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_23">Letter
+            VI.</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_24">Letter
+            VII</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_25">Letter
+            VIII</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_26">Letter IX</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_27">Letter X</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_28">Letter XI</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_29">Letter
+            XII</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_30">Letter
+            XIII</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_31">Letter
+            XIV</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_32">Letter XV</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_33">Letter
+            XVI</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_34">Letter
+            XVII</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_35">Letter
+            XVIII</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_36">Notes</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_37">Credits</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_38">A Word from
+            Project Gutenberg</a></li>
+            <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_39">The Full Project
+            Gutenberg License</a></li>
+          </ul>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="doublepage" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">... "When thou haply seest</p>
+            <p class="l">Some rare note-worthy object in the travels,</p>
+            <p class="l">Make me partaker of thy happiness."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">Shakespeare</span>.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="doublepage" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_2" name="toc_2"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Preface</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">This</span> book will be found to be truly
+          what its name denotes, "Sunny Memories."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">If the criticism be made that every thing is given <em>couleur
+          de rose</em>, the answer is, Why not? They are the impressions, as they arose,
+          of a most agreeable visit. How could they be otherwise?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">If there be characters and scenes that seem drawn with too
+          bright a pencil, the reader will consider that, after all, there are many worse
+          sins than a disposition to think and speak well of one's neighbors. To admire
+          and to love may now and then be tolerated, as a variety, as well as to carp and
+          criticize. America and England have heretofore abounded towards each other in
+          illiberal criticisms. There is not an unfavorable aspect of things in the old
+          world which has not become perfectly familiar to us; and a little of the other
+          side may have a useful influence.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The writer has been decided to issue these letters principally,
+          however, by the persevering and deliberate attempts, in certain quarters, to
+          misrepresent the circumstances which, are here given. So long as these
+          misrepresentations affected only those who were predetermined to believe
+          unfavorably, they were not regarded. But as they have had some influence, in
+          certain cases, upon really excellent and honest people, it is desirable that
+          the truth should be plainly told.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The object of publishing these letters is, therefore, to give to
+          those who are true-hearted and honest the same agreeable picture of life and
+          manners which met the writer's own, eyes. She had in view a wide circle of
+          friends throughout her own country, between whose hearts and her own there has
+          been an acquaintance and sympathy of years, and who, loving excellence, and
+          feeling the reality of it in themselves, are sincerely pleased to have their
+          sphere of hopefulness and charity enlarged. For such this is written; and if
+          those who are not such begin to read, let them treat the book as a letter not
+          addressed to them, which, having opened by mistake, they close and pass to the
+          true owner.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The English reader is requested to bear in mind that the book
+          has not been prepared in reference to an English but an American public, and to
+          make due allowance for that fact. It would have placed the writer far more at
+          ease had there been no prospect of publication in England. As this, however,
+          was unavoidable, in some form, the writer has chosen to issue it there under
+          her own sanction.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is one acknowledgment which the author feels happy to
+          make, and that is, to those publishers in England, Scotland, France, and
+          Germany who have shown a liberality beyond the requirements of legal
+          obligation. The author hopes that the day is not far distant when America will
+          reciprocate the liberality of other nations by granting to foreign authors
+          those rights which her own receive from them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The <em>Journal</em> which appears in the continental tour is
+          from the pen of the Rev. C. Beecher. The <em>Letters</em> were, for the most
+          part, compiled from what was written at the time and on the spot. Some few were
+          entirely written after the author's return.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is an affecting thought that several of the persons who
+          appear in these letters as among the living, have now passed to the great
+          future. The Earl of Warwick, Lord Cockburn, Judge Talfourd, and Dr. Wardlaw are
+          no more among the ways of men. Thus, while we read, while we write, the shadowy
+          procession is passing; the good are being gathered into life, and heaven
+          enriched by the garnered treasures of earth.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right">H.B.S.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="doublepage" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_3" name="toc_3"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Introductory</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">The</span> following letters were written by
+          Mrs. Stowe for her own personal friends, particularly the members of her own
+          family, and mainly as the transactions referred to in them occurred. During the
+          tour in England and Scotland, frequent allusions are made to public meetings
+          held on her account; but no report is made of the meetings, because that
+          information, was given fully in the newspapers sent to her friends with the
+          letters. Some knowledge of the general tone and spirit of the meetings seems
+          necessary, in order to put the readers of the letters in as favorable a
+          position to appreciate them as her friends were when they were received. Such
+          knowledge it is the object of this introductory chapter to furnish.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One or two of the addresses at each of several meetings I have
+          given, and generally without alteration, as they appeared in the public
+          journals at the time. Only a very few could be published without occupying
+          altogether too much space; and those selected are for the most part the
+          shortest, and chosen mainly on account of their brevity. This is certainly a
+          surer method of giving a true idea, of the spirit which actually pervaded the
+          meetings than could be accomplished by any selection of mere extracts from the
+          several speeches. In that case, there might be supposed to exist a temptation
+          to garble and make unfair representations; but in the method pursued, such a
+          suspicion is scarcely possible. In relation to my own addresses, I have
+          sometimes taken the liberty to correct the reporters by my own recollections
+          and notes. I have also, in some cases, somewhat abridged them, (a liberty which
+          I have not, to any considerable extent, ventured to take with others,) though
+          without changing the sentiment, or even essentially the form, of expression.
+          What I have here related is substantially what I actually said, and what I am
+          willing to be held responsible for. Many and bitter, during the tour, were the
+          misrepresentations and misstatements of a hostile press; to which I offer no
+          other reply than the plain facts of the following pages. These were the
+          sentiments uttered, this was the manner of their utterance; and I cheerfully
+          submit them to the judgment of a candid public.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I went to Europe without the least anticipation of the kind of
+          reception which awaited us; it was all a surprise and an embarrassment to me. I
+          went with the strongest love of my country, and the highest veneration for her
+          institutions; I every where in Britain found the most cordial sympathy with
+          this love and veneration; and I returned with both greatly increased. But
+          slavery I do not recognize as an institution of my country; it is an
+          excrescence, a vile usurpation, hated of God, and abhorred by man; I am under
+          no obligation either to love or respect it. He is the traitor to America, and
+          American institutions, who reckons slavery as one of them, and, as such,
+          screens it from assault. Slavery is a blight, a canker, a poison, in the very
+          heart of our republic; and unless the nation, as such, disengage itself from
+          it, it will most assuredly be our ruin. The patriot, the philanthropist, the
+          Christian, truly enlightened, sees no other alternative. The developments of
+          the present session of our national Congress are making this great truth
+          clearly perceptible even to the dullest apprehension.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right">C.E. STOWE.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">Andover</span>, <em>May</em> 30, 1854.</p>
+          <hr class="page" />
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_4" name="toc_4"></a> 
+            <h3 class="dgp">Breakfast In Liverpool&mdash;April 11.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Rev. Dr. M'Neile</span>, who had been requested by the respected host to
+            express to Mrs. Stowe the hearty congratulations of the first meeting of
+            friends she had seen in England, thus addressed her: "Mrs. Stowe: I have been
+            requested by those kind friends under whose hospitable roof we are assembled
+            to give some expression to the sincere and cordial welcome with which, we
+            greet your arrival in this country. I find real difficulty in making this
+            attempt, not from want of matter, nor from want of feeling, but because it is
+            not in the power of any language I can command, to give adequate expression
+            to the affectionate enthusiasm which pervades all ranks of our community, and
+            which is truly characteristic of the humanity and the Christianity of Great
+            Britain. We welcome Mrs. Stowe as the honored instrument of that noble
+            impulse which public opinion and public feeling throughout Christendom have
+            received against the demoralizing and degrading system of human slavery. That
+            system is still, unhappily, identified in the minds of many with the supposed
+            material interests of society, and even with the well being of the slaves
+            themselves; but the plausible arguments and ingenious sophistries by which it
+            has been defended shrink with shame from the facts without exaggeration, the
+            principles without compromise, the exposures without indelicacy, and the
+            irrepressible glow of hearty feeling&mdash;O, how true to nature!&mdash;which
+            characterize Mrs. Stowe's immortal book. Yet I feel assured that the effect
+            produced by Uncle Tom's Cabin is not mainly or chiefly to be traced to the
+            interest of the narrative, however captivating, nor to the exposures of the
+            slave system, however withering: these would, indeed, be sufficient to
+            produce a good effect; but this book contains more and better than even
+            these; it contains what will never be lost sight of&mdash;the genuine
+            application to the several branches of the subject of the sacred word of God.
+            By no part of this wonderful work has my own mind been so permanently
+            impressed as by the thorough legitimacy of the application of
+            Scripture,&mdash;no wresting, no mere verbal adaptation, but in every
+            instance the passage cited is made to illustrate something in the narrative,
+            or in the development of character, in strictest accordance with the design
+            of the passage in its original sacred context. We welcome Mrs. Stowe, then,
+            as an honored fellow-laborer in the highest and best of causes; and I am much
+            mistaken if this tone of welcome be not by far the most congenial to her own
+            feelings. We unaffectedly sympathize with much which she must feel, and, as a
+            lady, more peculiarly feel, in passing through that ordeal of gratulation
+            which is sure to attend her steps in every part of our country; and I am
+            persuaded that we cannot manifest our gratitude for her past services in any
+            way more acceptable to herself than by earnest prayer on her behalf that she
+            may be kept in the simplicity of Christ, enjoying in her daily experience the
+            tender consolations of the Divine Spirit, and in the midst of the most
+            flattering commendations saying and feeling, in the instincts of a renewed
+            heart, 'Not unto me, O Lord, not unto me, but unto thy name be the praise,
+            for thy mercy, and for thy truth's sake.'"</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor
+            Stowe</span> then rose, and said, "If we are silent, it is not because we do
+            not feel, but because we feel more than we can express. When that book was
+            written, we had no hope except in God. We had no expectation of reward save
+            in the prayers of the poor. The surprising enthusiasm which has been excited
+            by the book all over Christendom is an indication that God has a work to be
+            done in the cause of emancipation. The present aspect of things in the United
+            States is discouraging. Every change in society, every financial revolution,
+            every political and ecclesiastical movement, seems to pass and leave the
+            African race without help. Our only resource is prayer. God surely cannot
+            will that the unhappy condition of this portion of his children should
+            continue forever. There are some indications of a movement in the southern
+            mind. A leading southern paper lately declared editorially that slavery is
+            either right or wrong: if it is wrong, it is to be abandoned: if it is right,
+            it must be defended. The <em>Southern Press</em>, a paper established to
+            defend the slavery interest at the seat of government, has proposed that the
+            worst features of the system, such as the separation of families, should be
+            abandoned. But it is evident that with that restriction the system could not
+            exist. For instance, a man wants to buy a cook; but she has a husband and
+            seven children. Now, is he to buy a man and seven children, for whom he has
+            no use, for the sake of having a cook? Nothing on the present occasion has
+            been so grateful to our feelings as the reference made by Dr. M'Neile to the
+            Christian character of the book. Incredible as it may seem to those who are
+            without prejudice, it is nevertheless a fact that this book was condemned by
+            some religious newspapers in the United States as anti-Christian, and its
+            author associated with infidels and disorganizers; and had not it been for
+            the decided expression of the mind of English Christians, and of Christendom
+            itself, on this point, there is reason to fear that the proslavery power of
+            the United States would have succeeded in putting the book under foot.
+            Therefore it is peculiarly gratifying that so full an indorsement has been
+            given the work, in this respect, by eminent Christians of the highest
+            character in Europe; for, however some in the United States may affect to
+            despise what is said by the wise and good of this kingdom and the Christian
+            world, they do feel it, and feel it intensely." In answer to an inquiry by
+            Dr. M'Neile as to the mode in which southern Christians defended the
+            institution, Dr. Stowe remarked that "a great change had taken place in that
+            respect during the last thirty years. Formerly all Christians united in
+            condemning the system; but of late some have begun to defend it on scriptural
+            grounds. The Rev. Mr. Smylie, of Mississippi, wrote a pamphlet in the
+            defensive; and Professor Thornwell, of South Carolina, has published the most
+            candid and able statement of that argument which has been given. Their main
+            reliance is on the system of Mosaic servitude, wholly unlike though it was to
+            the American system of slavery. As to what this American system of slavery
+            is, the best documents for enlightening the minds of British Christians are
+            the commercial newspapers of the slaveholding states. There you see slavery
+            as it is, and certainly without any exaggeration. Read the advertisements for
+            the sale of slaves and for the apprehension of fugitives, the descriptions of
+            the persons of slaves, of dogs for hunting slaves, &amp;c., and you see how
+            the whole matter as viewed by the southern mind. Say what they will about it,
+            practically they generally regard the separation of families no more than the
+            separation of cattle, and the slaves as so much property, and nothing else.
+            Their own papers show that the pictures of the internal slave trade given in
+            Uncle Tom, so far from being overdrawn, fall even below the truth. Go on,
+            then, in forming and expressing your views on this subject. In laboring for
+            the overthrow of American slavery you are pursuing a course of Christian duty
+            as legitimate as in laboring to suppress the suttees of India, the
+            cannibalism of the Fejee Islands, and other barbarities of heathenism, of
+            which human slavery is but a relic. These evils can be finally removed by the
+            benign influence of the love of Christ, and no other power is competent to
+            the work."</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_5" name="toc_5"></a> 
+            <h3 class="dgp">Public Meeting In Liverpool&mdash;April 13.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Chairman, (A. Hodgson, Esq.,)</span> in opening the proceedings, thus
+            addressed Mrs. Beecher Stowe: "The modesty of our English ladies, which, like
+            your own, shrinks instinctively from unnecessary publicity, has devolved on
+            me, as one of the trustees of the Liverpool Association, the gratifying
+            office of tendering to you, at then request, a slight testimonial of their
+            gratitude and respect. We had hoped almost to the last moment that Mrs.
+            Cropper would have represented, on this day, the ladies with whom she has
+            cooperated, and among whom she has taken a distinguished lead in the great
+            work which you had the honor and the happiness to originate. But she has felt
+            with you that the path most grateful and most congenial to female exertion,
+            even in its widest and most elevated range, is still a retired and a shady
+            path; and you have taught us that the voice which most effectually kindles
+            enthusiasm in millions is the still small voice which comes forth from the
+            sanctuary of a woman's breast, and from the retirement of a woman's
+            closet&mdash;the simple but unequivocal expression of her unfaltering faith,
+            and the evidence of her generous and unshrinking self-devotion. In the same
+            spirit, and as deeply impressed with the retired character of female
+            exertion, the ladies who have so warmly greeted your arrival in this country
+            have still felt it entirely consistent with the most sensitive delicacy to
+            make a public response to your appeal, and to hail with acclamation your
+            thrilling protest against those outrages on our common nature which
+            circumstances have forced on your observation. They engage in no political
+            discussion, they embark in no public controversy; but when an intrepid sister
+            appeals to the instincts of women of every color and of every clime against a
+            system which sanctions the violation of the fondest affections and the
+            disruption of the tenderest ties; which snatches the clinging wife from the
+            agonized husband, and the child from the breast of its fainting mother; which
+            leaves the young and innocent female a helpless and almost inevitable victim
+            of a licentiousness controlled by no law and checked by no public
+            opinion,&mdash;it is surely as feminine as it is Christian to sympathize with
+            her in her perilous task, and to rejoice that she has shed such a vivid light
+            on enormities which can exist only while unknown or unbelieved. We
+            acknowledge with regret and shame that that fatal system was introduced into
+            America by Great Britain; but having in our colonies returned from our
+            devious paths, we may without presumption, in the spirit of friendly
+            suggestion, implore our honored transatlantic friends to do the same. The
+            ladies of Great Britain have been admonished by their fair sisters in
+            America, (and I am sure they are bound to take the admonition in good part,)
+            that there are social evils in our own country demanding our special
+            vigilance and care. This is most true; but it is also true that the deepest
+            sympathies and most strenuous efforts are directed, in the first instance, to
+            the evils which exist among ourselves, and that the rays of benevolence which
+            flash across the Atlantic are often but the indication of the intensity of
+            the bright flame which is shedding light and heat on all in its immediate
+            vicinity. I believe this is the case with most of those who have taken a
+            prominent part in this great movement. I am sure it is preeminently the case
+            with respect to many of those by whom you are surrounded; and I hardly know a
+            more miserable fallacy, by which sensible men allow themselves to be deluded,
+            than that which assumes that every emotion of sympathy which is kindled by
+            objects abroad is abstracted from our sympathies at home. All experience
+            points to a directly opposite conclusion; and surely the divine command, 'to
+            go into all the world, and preach the gospel to every creature,' should put
+            to shame and silence the specious but transparent selfishness which would
+            contract the limits of human sympathy, and veil itself under the garb of
+            superior sagacity. But I must not detain you by any further observations.
+            Allow me, in the name of the associated ladies, to present you with this
+            small memorial of great regard, and to tender to you their and my best wishes
+            for your health and happiness while you are sojourning among us, for the
+            blessing of God on your children during your absence, and for your safe
+            return to your native country when your mission shall be accomplished. I have
+            just been requested to state the following particulars: In December last, a
+            few ladies met in this place to consider the best plan of obtaining
+            signatures in Liverpool to an address to the women of America on the subject
+            of negro slavery, in substance coinciding with the one so nobly proposed and
+            carried forward by Lord Shaftesbury. At this meeting it was suggested that it
+            would be a sincere gratification to many if some testimonial could be
+            presented to Mrs. Stowe which would indicate the sense, almost universally
+            entertained, that she had been the instrument in the hands of God of arousing
+            the slumbering sympathies of this country in behalf of the suffering slave.
+            It was felt desirable to render the expression of such a feeling as general
+            as possible; and to effect this it was resolved that a subscription should be
+            set on foot, consisting of contributions of one penny and upwards, with a
+            view to raise a testimonial, to be presented to Mrs. Stowe by the ladies of
+            Liverpool, as an expression of their grateful appreciation of her valuable
+            services in the cause of the negro, and as a token of admiration for the
+            genius and of high esteem for the philanthropy and Christian feeling which
+            animate her great work, Uncle Tom's Cabin. It ought, perhaps, to be added,
+            that some friends, not residents of Liverpool, have united in this tribute.
+            As many of the ladies connected with the effort to obtain signatures to the
+            address may not be aware of the whole number appended, they may be interested
+            in knowing that they amounted in all to twenty-one thousand nine hundred and
+            fifty-three. Of these, twenty thousand nine hundred and thirty-six were
+            obtained by ladies in Liverpool, from their friends either in this
+            neighborhood or at a distance; and one thousand and seventeen were sent to
+            the committee in London from other parts, by those who preferred our form of
+            address. The total number of signatures from all parts of the kingdom to Lord
+            Shaftesbury's address was upwards of five hundred thousand."</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor
+            Stowe</span> then said, "On behalf of Mrs. Stowe I will read from her pen the
+            response to your generous offering: 'It is impossible for me to express the
+            feelings of my heart at the kind and generous manner in which I have been
+            received upon English shores. Just when I had begun to realize that a whole
+            wide ocean lay between me and all that is dearest to me, I found most
+            unexpectedly a home and friends waiting to receive me here. I have had not an
+            hour in which to know the heart of a stranger. I have been made to feel at
+            home since the first moment of landing, and wherever I have looked I have
+            seen only the faces of friends. It is with deep feeling that I have found
+            myself on ground that has been consecrated and made holy by the prayers and
+            efforts of those who first commenced the struggle for that sacred cause which
+            has proved so successful in England, and which I have a solemn assurance will
+            yet be successful in my own country. It is a touching thought that here so
+            many have given all that they have, and are, in behalf of oppressed humanity.
+            It is touching to remember that one of the noblest men which England has ever
+            produced now lies stricken under the heavy hand of disease, through a last
+            labor of love in this cause. May God grant us all to feel that nothing is too
+            dear or precious to be given in a work for which such men have lived, and
+            labored, and suffered. No great good is ever wrought out for the human race
+            without the suffering of great hearts. They who would serve their fellow-men
+            are ever reminded that the Captain of their salvation was made perfect
+            through suffering. I gratefully accept the offering confided to my care, and
+            trust it may be so employed that the blessing of many "who are ready to
+            perish" will return upon your heads. Let me ask those&mdash;those fathers and
+            mothers in Israel&mdash;who have lived and prayed many years for this cause,
+            that as they prayed for their own country in the hour of her struggle, so
+            they will pray now for ours. Love and prayer can hurt no one, can offend no
+            one, and prayer is a real power. If the hearts of all the real Christians of
+            England are poured out in prayer, it will be felt through the heart of the
+            whole American church. Let us all look upward, from our own feebleness and
+            darkness, to Him of whom it is said, "He shall not fail nor be discouraged
+            till he have set judgment in the earth." To him, the only wise God our
+            Saviour, be glory and majesty, dominion and power, both now and ever.
+            Amen.'&mdash;These are the words, my friends, which Mrs. Stowe has written,
+            and I cannot forbear to add a few words of my own. It was our intention, as
+            the invitation to visit Great Britain came from Glasgow, to make our first
+            landing there. But it was ordered by Providence that we should land here; and
+            surely there is no place in the kingdom where a landing could be more
+            appropriate, and where the reception could have been more cordial. [Hear,
+            hear!] It was wholly unexpected by us, I can assure you. We know that there
+            were friendly hearts here, for we had received abundant testimonials to that
+            effect from letters which had come to us across the Atlantic&mdash;letters
+            wholly unexpected, and which filled our souls with surprise; but we had no
+            thought that there was such a feeling throughout England, and we scarcely
+            know how to conduct ourselves under it, for we are not accustomed to this
+            kind of receptions. In our own country, unhappily, we are very much divided,
+            and the preponderance of feeling expressed is in the other direction,
+            entirely in opposition, and not in favor. [Hear, hear!] We knew that this
+            city had been the scene of some of the greatest, most disinterested, and most
+            powerful efforts in behalf of emancipation. The name of Clarkson was
+            indissolubly associated with this place, for here he came to make his
+            investigations, and here he was in danger of his life, and here he was
+            protected by friends who stood by him through the whole struggle. The names
+            of Cropper, and of Stephen, and of many others in this city, were very
+            familiar to us&mdash;[Hear, hear!]&mdash;and it was in connection with this
+            city that we received what to our feelings was a most effective testimonial,
+            an unexpected letter from Lord Denman, whom we have always venerated. When I
+            was in England in 1836, there were no two persons whom I more desired to see
+            than the Duke of Wellington and Lord Denman; and soon I sought admission to
+            the House of Lords, where I had the pleasure both of seeing and hearing
+            England's great captain; and I found my way to the Court of Queen's Bench,
+            where I had the pleasure of seeing and hearing England's great judge. But how
+            unexpected was all this to us! When that book was written, in sorrow, and in
+            sadness, and obscurity, and with the heart almost broken in the view of the
+            sufferings which it described, and the still greater sufferings which it
+            dared not describe, there was no expectation of any thing but the prayers of
+            the sufferers and the blessing of God, who has said that the seed which is
+            buried in the earth shall spring up in his own good time; and though it may
+            be long buried, it will still at length come forth and bear fruit. We never
+            could believe that slavery in our land would be a perpetual curse; but we
+            felt, and felt deeply, that there must be a terrible struggle before we could
+            be delivered from it, and that there must be suffering and martyrdom in this
+            cause, as in every other great cause; for a struggle of eighteen years had
+            taught us its strength. And, under God, we rely very much on the Christian
+            public of Great Britain; for every expression of feeling from the wise and
+            good of this land, with whatever petulance it may be met by some, goes to the
+            heart of the American people. [Hear, hear!] You must not judge of the
+            American people by the expressions which have come across the Atlantic in
+            reference to the subject. Nine tenths of the American people, I think, are,
+            in opinion at least, with you on this great subject; [Hear, hear!] but there
+            is a tremendous pressure brought to bear upon all who are in favor of
+            emancipation. The whole political power, the whole money power, almost the
+            whole ecclesiastical power is wielded in defence of slavery, protecting it
+            from all aggression; and it is as much as a man's reputation is worth to
+            utter a syllable boldly and openly on the other side. Let me say to the
+            ladies who have been active in getting up the address on the subject of
+            slavery, that you have been doing a great and glorious work, and a work most
+            appropriate for you to do; for in slavery it is woman that suffers most
+            intensely, and the suffering woman has a claim upon the sympathy of her
+            sisters in other lands. This address will produce a powerful impression
+            throughout the country. There are ladies already of the highest character in
+            the nation pondering how they shall make a suitable response, and what they
+            shall do in reference to it that will be acceptable to the ladies of the
+            United Kingdom, or will be profitable to the slave; and in due season you
+            will see that the hearts of American women are alive to this matter, as well
+            as the hearts of the women of this country. [Hear, hear!] Such was the mighty
+            influence brought to bear upon every thing that threatened slavery, that had
+            it not been for the decided expression on this side of the Atlantic in
+            reference to the work which has exerted, under God, so much influence, there
+            is every reason to fear that it would have been crushed and put under foot,
+            as many other efforts for the overthrow of slavery have been in the United
+            States. But it is impossible; the unanimous voice of Christendom prohibits
+            it; and it shows that God has a work to accomplish, and that he has just
+            commenced it. There are social evils in England. Undoubtedly there are; but
+            the difference between the social evils in England and this great evil of
+            slavery in the United States is just here: In England, the power of the
+            government and the power of Christian sympathy are exerted for the removal of
+            those evils. Look at the committees of inquiry in Parliament, look at the
+            amount of information collected with regard to the suffering poor in their
+            reports, and see how ready the government of Great Britain is to enter into
+            those inquiries, and to remove those evils. Look at the benevolent
+            institutions of the United Kingdom, and see how active all these are in
+            administering relief; and then see the condition of slavery in the United
+            States, where the whole power of the government is used in the contrary
+            direction, where every influence is brought to bear to prevent any mitigation
+            of the evil, and where every voice that is lifted to plead for a mitigation
+            is drowned in vituperation and abuse from those who are determined that the
+            evil shall not be mitigated. This is the difference: England repents and
+            reforms. America refuses to repent and reform. It is said, 'Let each country
+            take care of itself, and let the ladies of England attend to their own
+            business.' Now I have always found that those who labor at home are those who
+            labor abroad; [Hear, hear!] and those who say, 'Let us do the work at home,'
+            are those who do no work of good either at home or abroad. [Hear, hear!] It
+            was just so when the great missionary effort came up in the United States.
+            They said, 'We have a great territory here. Let us send missionaries to our
+            own territories. Why should we send missionaries across the ocean?' But those
+            who sent missionaries across the ocean were those who sent missionaries in
+            the United States; and those who did not send missionaries across the ocean
+            were those who sent missionaries nowhere. [Hear, hear!] They who say,
+            'Charity begins at home,' are generally those who have no charity; and when I
+            see a lady whose name is signed to this address, I am sure to find a lady who
+            is exercising her benevolence at home. Let me thank you for all the interest
+            you have manifested and for all the kindness which we have received at your
+            hands, which we shall ever remember, both with gratitude to you and to God
+            our Father."</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The Rev.
+            C.M. Birrell</span> afterwards made a few remarks in proposing a vote of
+            thanks to the ladies who had contributed the testimonial which had been
+            presented to the distinguished writer of Uncle Tom's Cabin. He said it was
+            most delightful to hear of the great good which that remarkable volume had
+            done, and, he humbly believed, by God's special inspiration and guidance, was
+            doing, in the United States of America. It was not confined to the United
+            States of America. The volume was going forth over the whole earth, and great
+            good was resulting, directly and indirectly, by God's providence, from it. He
+            was told a few days ago, by a gentleman fully conversant with the facts, that
+            an edition of Uncle Tom, circulated in Belgium, had created an earnest desire
+            on the part of the people to read the Bible, so frequently quoted in that
+            beautiful work, and that in consequence of it a great run had been made upon
+            the Bible Society's depositories in that kingdom. [Hear, hear!] The priests
+            of the church of Rome, true to their instinct, in endeavoring to maintain the
+            position which they could not otherwise hold, had published another edition,
+            from which, they had entirely excluded all reference to the word of God.
+            [Hear, hear!] He had been also told that at St. Petersburg an edition of
+            Uncle Tom had been translated into the Russian tongue, and that it was being
+            distributed, by command of the emperor, throughout the whole of that vast
+            empire. It was true that the circulation of the work there did not spring
+            from a special desire on the part of the emperor to give liberty to the
+            people of Russia, but because he wished to create a third power in the
+            empire, to act upon the nobles; he wished to cause them to set free their
+            serfs, in order that a third power might be created in the empire to serve as
+            a check upon them. But whatever was the cause, let us thank God, the Author
+            of all gifts, for what is done.</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Sir George
+            Stephen</span> seconded the motion of thanks to the ladies, observing that he
+            had peculiar reasons for doing so. He supposed that he was one of the oldest
+            laborers in this cause. Thirty years ago he found that the work of one lady
+            was equal to that of fifty men; and now we had the work of one lady which was
+            equal to that of all the male sex. [Applause.]</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_6" name="toc_6"></a> 
+            <h3 class="dgp">Public Meeting In Glasgow&mdash;April 15.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Rev. Dr. Wardlaw</span> was introduced by the chairman, and spoke as
+            follows:&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"The members of the Glasgow Ladies' New Antislavery
+            Association and the citizens of Glasgow, now assembled, hail with no ordinary
+            satisfaction, and with becoming gratitude to a kindly protecting Providence,
+            the safe arrival amongst them of Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe. They feel
+            obliged by her accepting, with so much promptitude and cordiality, the
+            invitation addressed to her&mdash;an invitation intended to express the favor
+            they bore to her, and the honor in which they held her, as the eminently
+            gifted authoress of Uncle Tom's Cabin&mdash;a work of humble name, but of
+            high excellence and world-wide celebrity; a work the felicity of whose
+            conception is more than equalled by the admirable tact of its execution, and
+            the Christian benevolence of its design, by its exquisite adaptation to its
+            accomplishment; distinguished by the singular variety and consistent
+            discrimination of its characters; by the purity of its religious and moral
+            principles; by its racy humor, and its touching pathos, and its effectively
+            powerful appeals to the judgment, the conscience, and the heart; a work,
+            indeed, of whose sterling worth the earnest test is to be found in the fact
+            of its having so universally touched and stirred the bosom of our common
+            humanity, in all classes of society, that its humble name has become 'a
+            household word,' from the palace to the cottage, and of the extent of its
+            circulation having been unprecedented in the history of the literature of
+            this or of any other age or country. They would, at the same time, include in
+            their hearty welcome the Rev. C.E. Stowe, Professor of Theological Literature
+            in the Andover Theological Seminary, Massachusetts, whose eminent
+            qualifications, as a classical scholar, a man of general literature, and a
+            theologian, have recently placed him in a highly honorable and responsible
+            position, and who, on the subject of slavery, holds the same principles and
+            breathes the same spirit of freedom with his accomplished partner; and, along
+            with them too, another member of the same singularly talented family with
+            herself. They delight to think of the amount of good to the cause of
+            emancipation and universal liberty which her Cabin has already done, and to
+            anticipate the still larger amount it is yet destined to do, now that the Key
+            to the Cabin has triumphantly shown it to be no fiction; and in whatever
+            further efforts she may be honored of Heaven to make in the same noble cause,
+            they desire, unitedly and heartily, to cheer her on, and bid her 'God speed.'
+            I cannot but feel myself highly honored in having been requested to move this
+            resolution. In doing so, I have the happiness of introducing to a Glasgow
+            audience a lady from the transatlantic continent, the extraordinary
+            production of whose pen, referred to in the resolution, had made her name
+            familiar in our country and through Europe, ere she appeared in person among
+            us. My judgment and my heart alike fully respond to every thing said in the
+            resolution respecting that inimitable work. We are accustomed to make a
+            distinction between works of nature and works of art, but in a sense which,
+            all will readily understand, this is preeminently both. As a work of art, it
+            bears upon it, throughout, the stamp of original and varied genius. And yet,
+            throughout, it equally bears the impress of nature&mdash;of human
+            nature&mdash;in its worst and its best, and all its intermediate phases. The
+            man who has read that little volume without laughing and crying
+            alternately&mdash;without the meltings of pity, the thrillings of horror, and
+            the kindlings of indignation&mdash;would supply a far better argument for a
+            distinct race than a negro. [Loud laughter and cheers.] He must have a
+            humanity peculiarly his own. And he who can read it without the breathings of
+            devotion must, if he calls himself a Christian, have a Christianity as unique
+            and questionable as his humanity. [Cheering.] Never did work produce such a
+            sensation. Among us that sensation has happily been all of one kind. It has
+            been the stirring of universal sympathy and unbounded admiration. Not so in
+            the country of its own and of its gifted authoress's birth. There, the
+            ferment has been among the friends as well as the foes of slavery. Among the
+            former all is rage. Among the latter, while there are some&mdash;we trust not
+            a few&mdash;who take the same high and noble position with the talented
+            authoress, there are too many, we fear, who are frightened by this
+            uncompromising boldness, and who are drawn back rather than drawn forward by
+            it&mdash;who 'halt between two opinions,' and are the advocates of medium
+            principles and medium measures. By many among ourselves, the excitement which
+            has been stirred is contemplated with apprehension. They regard it as
+            unfavorable to emancipation, and likely to retard rather than to advance its
+            progress. I must confess myself of a somewhat different mind. That the cause
+            may be obstructed by it for a time, may be true. But it will work well in the
+            long run. Good will ultimately come out of it. Stir is better than stagnancy.
+            Irritation is better than apathy. Whence does it arise? From two sources. The
+            conscience and the honor of the country have both been touched. Conscience
+            winces under the touch. The provocation shows it to be ill at ease. The wound
+            is painful, and it naturally awakens fretfulness and resentment. But by and
+            by the angry excitement will subside, and the salutary conviction will remain
+            and operate. The national honor, too, has been touched. Our friends across
+            the wave boast, and with good reason, of the free principles of their
+            constitution. They glory in their liberty. But they cannot fail to feel the
+            inconsistency of their position, and the exposure of it to the world kindles
+            on the cheek the blush of shame and the reddening fire of displeasure. Now,
+            the blush has aright source. It is the blush of patriotism&mdash;it is for
+            their country. But there is anger with the shame; for few things are more
+            galling than to feel that to be wrong which you are unable to justify, and
+            which, yet, you are not prepared to relinquish. [Loud applause.] On the
+            whole, I cannot but regard the agitation which has been produced as an
+            auspicious, rather than a discouraging omen. It was when the waters of the
+            pool were troubled that their healing virtue was imparted. Let us then hope
+            that the troubling of the waters by this ministering angel of mercy may
+            impregnate them with a similar sanative influence, [the reverend doctor here
+            pointed towards Mrs. Stowe, while the audience burst out with enthusiastic
+            acclamations and waving of handkerchiefs,] and thus ultimately contribute to
+            the healing of the ghastly wounds of the chain and the lash, and to the
+            setting of the crushed and bowed down erect in the soundness and dignity of
+            their true manhood. [Loud cheering.] Sorry we are that Mrs. Stowe should
+            appear amongst us in a state of broken health and physical exhaustion. No one
+            who looks at the Cabin and at the Key, and who knows aught of the effect of
+            severe mental labor on the bodily frame, will marvel at this. We fondly
+            trust, and earnestly pray, that her temporary sojourn among us may, by the
+            divine blessing, recruit her strength, and contribute to the prolongation of
+            a life so promising of benefit to suffering humanity, and to the glory of
+            God. [Cheers.] Meanwhile she enjoys the happy consciousness that she is
+            suffering in a good cause. A better there could not be. It is one which
+            involves the well being, corporeal and mental, physical and spiritual,
+            temporal and eternal, of degraded, plundered, oppressed, darkened,
+            brutalized, perishing millions. And, while we delight in furnishing her for a
+            time with a peaceful retreat from 'the wrath of men,' from the resentment of
+            those who, did they but rightly know their own interests, would have smiled
+            upon her, and blessed her. We trust she enjoys, and ever will enjoy,
+            quietness and assurance of an infinitely higher order&mdash;the divine
+            Master, whom she serves and seeks to honor; proving to her, in the terms of
+            his own promise, 'a refuge from the storm, and a covert from the tempest.'
+            [Enthusiastic cheering.] It may sound strangely, that, when assembled for the
+            very purpose of denouncing 'property in man,' we should be putting in our
+            claims for a share of property in woman. So, however, it is. We claim Mrs.
+            Stowe as ours&mdash;[renewed, cheers]&mdash;not ours only, but still ours.
+            She is British and European property as well as American. She is the property
+            of the whole world of literature and the whole world of humanity. [Cheers.]
+            Should our transatlantic friends repudiate the property, they may transfer
+            their share&mdash;[laughter and cheers]&mdash;most gladly will we accept the
+            transference."</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor
+            Stowe</span>, on rising to reply, was greeted with the most enthusiastic
+            applause. He said that he appeared in the name of Mrs. Stowe, and in his own
+            name, for the purpose of cordially thanking the people of Glasgow for the
+            reception that had been given to them. But he could not find words to do it.
+            Was it true that all this affectionate interest was merited? [Cheers.] He
+            could not imagine any book capable of exciting such expressions of
+            attachment; indeed he was inclined to believe it had not been written at
+            all&mdash;he "'spected it grew." [Tremendous cheers.] Under the oppression of
+            the fugitive slave law the book had sprung from the soil ready made. He
+            regretted exceedingly that in consequence of the state of Mrs. Stowe's
+            health, and in consequence of the great pressure of engagements on himself,
+            their stay in this country would be necessarily short. But he hoped they
+            would accept of the expression of thanks they offered, and their apology for
+            not being in a condition to meet their kindness as they would desire. When
+            they were about to set out from Andover, a friend of theirs expressed his
+            astonishment that they should enter upon such a journey in the delicate state
+            of Mrs. Stowe's health. The Scotch people, he doubted not, would be kind to
+            them&mdash;<em>they would kill them with kindness</em>; and he feared it
+            would be so. It was from Glasgow the idea of the invitation they had received
+            had originated; and well might it originate in that city, for when had been
+            the time that Glasgow was not in earnest on the subject of freedom? They had
+            had hard struggles for liberty, and they had been successful, and the people
+            in the United States were now struggling for the same privilege. But they
+            labored under circumstances greatly different from those in Great Britain.
+            Scotland had ever been distinguished for its love of freedom. [Great
+            applause.] The religious denominations in the United States&mdash;to a great
+            extent, give few and feeble expressions of disapprobation against the system
+            of slavery. Two denominations had never been silent&mdash;the Old Scotch
+            Seceders, or Covenanters, and the disciples of William Penn&mdash;not one of
+            their number, in the United States, owns a slave. Not one can own a slave
+            without being ejected from the society.<a href="#note_1"><span
+            class="footnoteref">1</span></a> In fact, the general feeling was against
+            slavery; but to avoid trouble, the people hesitate to give publicity to their
+            feelings. Were this done, slavery would soon come to an end. Great sacrifices
+            are sometimes made by slaveholders to get rid of slavery. He went once to
+            preach in the State of Ohio. He found there a little log house. Inside was a
+            delicate woman, feeble and with white hands. She seemed wholly unaccustomed
+            to work. Her husband had the same appearance of delicacy. They were very
+            poor. How had they come into that state? They belonged to a slave State,
+            where they had formerly possessed a little family of slaves. They had felt
+            slavery to be wrong. They set them free, and with the remainder of their
+            little property tried to get their living by farming; but like many similar
+            cases, it had been one of martyrdom. The Professor then proceeded to make
+            some very practical remarks on the character of the fugitive slave law, after
+            which he said that the prosperity of Great Britain in a great measure
+            resulted from the products of slave labor. American cotton was the chief
+            support of the system. We must, both in Britain and America, get free-grown
+            cotton, or slavery will not, at least for a long time to come, be abolished.
+            What he would impress on the minds of Christians was unity in this great
+            work. Let slaveholders be ever so much opposed to each other on other topics,
+            they were unanimous in their endeavors to support slavery. But let the
+            prayers of all Christians and the efforts of all Christians be united; and
+            the system of oppression would speedily be destroyed forever.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_7" name="toc_7"></a> 
+            <h3 class="dgp">Public Meeting In Edinburgh&mdash;April 20.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Lord Provost</span> rose, and stated that a number of letters of apology had
+            been received from parties who had been invited to take part in the meeting,
+            but who had been unable to attend. Among these he might mention Professor
+            Blackie, the Rev. Mr. Gilfillan, of Dundee, Rev. J. Begg, D.D., the Earl of
+            Buchan, Dr. Candlish, and Sir W. Gibson Craig, all of whom expressed their
+            regret that they could not be present. One of them, he observed, was from a
+            gentleman who had long taken an interest in the antislavery cause,&mdash;Lord
+            Cockburn,<a href="#note_2"><span class="footnoteref">2</span></a>&mdash;and
+            his note was so warm, and sympathetic, and hearty on the subject about which
+            they had met, that he could not resist the temptation of reading it. It
+            proceeded, "I regret, that owing to my being obliged to be in Ayrshire, it
+            will not be in my power to join you in the expression of respect and
+            gratitude to Mrs. Stowe; she deserves all the honor that can be done her; she
+            has done more for humanity than was ever accomplished before by a single book
+            of fiction. [Cheers.] It did not require much to raise our British feeling
+            against slavery, but by showing us what substantially are facts, and the
+            necessary tendency of this evil in its most mitigated form, she has greatly
+            strengthened the ground on which this feeling rests. Her work may have no
+            immediate or present influence on the states of her own country that are now
+            unhappily under the curse, and may indeed for a time aggravate its horrors;
+            but it is a prodigious accession to the constantly accumulating mass of views
+            and evidence, which by reason of its force must finally prevail." [Cheers.]
+            The Lord Provost proceeded to say, that they had now assembled chiefly to do
+            honor to their distinguished guest, Mrs. Stowe. [Applause.] They had met,
+            however, also to express their interest in the cause which it had been the
+            great effort of her life to promote&mdash;the abolition of slavery. They took
+            advantage of her presence, and the effect which was produced on the public
+            mind of this country, to reiterate their love for the abolition cause, and
+            their detestation of slavery. Before they were aware that Mrs. Stowe was to
+            grace the city of Edinburgh with her presence, a committee had been organized
+            to collect a penny offering&mdash;the amount to be contributed in pence, and
+            other small sums, from the masses of this country&mdash;to be presented to
+            her as some means of mitigating, through her instrumentality, the horrors of
+            slavery, as they might come under her observation. It was intended at once as
+            a mark of their esteem for her, of their confidence in her, of their
+            conviction that she would do what was right in the cause, and, at the same
+            time, as an evidence of the detestation in which the system of slavery was
+            held in this free country. That penny offering now, he was happy to say, by
+            the spontaneous efforts of the inhabitants of this and other towns, amounted
+            to a considerable sum; to certain gentlemen in Edinburgh forming the
+            committee the whole credit of this organization was due, and he believed one
+            of their number, the Rev. Mr. Ballantyne, would present the offering that
+            evening, and tell them all about it. He would not, therefore, forestall what
+            he would have to say on the subject. They were also to have the pleasure of
+            presenting Mrs. Stowe with an address from the committee in this city, which
+            would be presented by another reverend friend, who would be introduced at the
+            proper time. As there would be a number of speakers to follow during the
+            evening, his own remarks must be exceedingly short; but he could not resist
+            the temptation of saying how happy he felt at being once more in the midst of
+            a great meeting in the city of Edinburgh, for the purpose of expressing their
+            detestation of the system of slavery. They could appeal to their brethren in
+            the United States with clean hands, because they had got rid of the
+            abomination themselves; they could therefore say to them, through their
+            friends who were now present, on their return home, and through the press,
+            which would carry their sentiments even to the slave states&mdash;they could
+            say to them that they had washed their own hands of the evil at the largest
+            pecuniary sacrifice that was ever made by any nation for the promotion of any
+            good cause. [Loud applause.] Some parties said that they should not speak
+            harshly of the Americans, because they were full of prejudice with regard to
+            the system which they had seen growing up around them. He said so too with
+            all his heart; he joined in the sentiment that they should not speak harshly,
+            but they might fairly express their opinion of the system with which their
+            American friends were surrounded, and in which he thought all who supported
+            it were guilty participators. [Hear, hear!] They could denounce the
+            wickedness, they could tell them that they thought it was their duty to put
+            an end to it speedily. The cause of the abolition of slavery in our own
+            colonies long hung without any visible progress, notwithstanding the efforts
+            of many distinguished men, who did all they could to mitigate some of its
+            more prominent evils; and yet, so long as they never struck at the root, the
+            progress which they made was almost insensible. They knew how many men had
+            spent their energies, and some of them their lives, in attempting to forward
+            the cause; but how little effect was produced for the first half of the
+            present century! The city of Edinburgh had always, he was glad to say, taken
+            a deep interest in the cause; it was one of the very first to take up the
+            ground of total and entire abolition. [Cheers.] A predecessor of his own in
+            the civic chair was so kind as to preside at a meeting held in Edinburgh
+            twenty-three years ago, in which a very decided step was proposed to be taken
+            in advance, and a resolution was moved by the then Dean of Faculty, to the
+            effect that on the following first of January, 1831, all the children born of
+            slave parents in our colonies were from that date to be declared free. That
+            was thought a great and most important movement by the promoters of the
+            cause. There were, however, parties at that crowded meeting who thought that
+            even this was a mere expedient&mdash;that it was a mere pruning of the
+            branches, leaving the whole system intact. One of these was the late Dr.
+            Andrew Thomson&mdash;[cheers]&mdash;who had the courage to propose that the
+            meeting should at once declare for total and immediate abolition, which
+            proposal was seconded by another excellent citizen, Mr. Dickie. Dr. Thomson
+            replied to some of the arguments which had been put forward, to the effect
+            that the total abolition might possibly occasion bloodshed; and he said that,
+            even if that did follow, it was no fault of his, and that he still stuck to
+            the principle, which he considered right under any circumstances. The
+            chairman, thereupon, threatened to leave the chair on account of the
+            unnecessarily strong language used, and when the sentiments were reiterated
+            by Mr. Dickie, he actually bolted, and left the meeting, which was thrown
+            into great confusion. A few days afterwards, however, another meeting was
+            held&mdash;one of the largest and most effective that had been ever held in
+            Edinburgh&mdash;at which were present Mr. John Shank More in the chair, the
+            Rev. Dr. Thomson, Rev. Dr Gordon, Dr. Ritchie, Mr. Muirhead, the Rev. Mr.
+            Buchanan of North Leith, Mr. J. Wigham, Jr., Dr. Greville, &amp;c. The Lord
+            Provost proceeded to read extracts from the speeches made at the meeting,
+            showing that the sentiments of the inhabitants of Edinburgh, so far back as
+            1830, as uttered by some of its most distinguished men,&mdash;not violent
+            agitators, but ministers of the gospel, promoters of peace and order, and
+            every good and every benevolent purpose,&mdash;were in favor of the immediate
+            and total abolition of slavery in our colonies. He referred especially to the
+            speech of Dr. Andrew Thomson on this occasion, from which he read the
+            following extract: "But if the argument is forced upon me to accomplish this
+            great object, that there must be violence, let it come, for it will soon pass
+            away&mdash;let it come and rage its little hour, since it is to be succeeded
+            by lasting freedom, and prosperity, and happiness. Give me the hurricane
+            rather than the pestilence. Give me the hurricane, with its thunders, and its
+            lightnings, and its tempests&mdash;give me the hurricane, with its partial
+            and temporary devastations, awful though they be&mdash;give me the hurricane,
+            which brings along with it purifying, and healthful, and salutary
+            effects&mdash;give me the hurricane rather than the noisome pestilence, whose
+            path is never crossed, whose silence is never disturbed, whose progress is
+            never arrested by one sweeping blast from the heavens&mdash;which walks
+            peacefully and sullenly through the length and breadth of the land, breathing
+            poison into every heart, and carrying havoc into every home&mdash;enervating
+            all that is strong, defacing all that is beautiful, and casting its blight
+            over the fairest and happiest scenes of human life&mdash;and which from day
+            to day, and from year to year, with intolerant and interminable malignity,
+            sends its thousands and tens of thousands of hapless victims into the
+            ever-yawning and never-satisfied grave!"&mdash;[Loud and long applause.] The
+            experience which they had had, that all the dangers, all the bloodshed and
+            violence which were threatened, were merely imaginary, and that none of these
+            evils had come upon them although slavery had been totally abolished by us,
+            should, he thought, be an encouragement to their American friends to go home
+            and tell their countrymen that in this great city the views now put forward
+            were advocated long ago&mdash;that the persons who now held them said the
+            same years ago of the disturbances and the evils which would arise from
+            pressing the question of immediate and total abolition&mdash;that the same
+            kind of arguments and the same predictions of evil were uttered in
+            England&mdash;and although she had not the experience, although she had not
+            the opportunity of pointing to the past, and saying the evil had not come in
+            such a case, still, even then, they were willing to face the evil, to stick
+            to the righteous principle, and to say, come what would, justice must be done
+            to the slave, and slavery must be wholly and immediately abolished. [Cheers.]
+            He had said so much on the question of slavery, because he was very sure it
+            would be much more agreeable to their modest and retiring and distinguished
+            guest that one should speak about any other thing than about herself. Uncle
+            Tom's Cabin needed no recommendation from him. [Loud cheers.] It was the most
+            extraordinary book, he thought, that had ever been published; no book had
+            ever got into the same circulation; none had ever produced a tithe of the
+            impression which it had produced within a given time. It was worth all the
+            proslavery press of America put together. The horrors of slavery were not
+            merely described, but they were actually pictured to the eye. They were seen
+            and understood fully; formerly they were mere dim visions, about which there
+            was great difference of opinion; some saw them as in a mist, and others more
+            clearly; but now every body saw and understood slavery. Every body in this
+            great city, if they had a voice in the matter, would be prepared to say that
+            they wished slavery to be utterly extinguished. [Loud cheers.]</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor
+            Stowe</span> then rose, and was greeted with loud cheers. He begged to read
+            the following note from Mrs. Stowe, in acknowledgment of the
+            honor:&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"I accept these congratulations and honors, and this offering,
+            which it has pleased Scotland to bestow on me, not for any thing which I have
+            said or done, not as in any sense acknowledging that they are or can be
+            deserved, but with heartfelt, humble gratitude to God, as tokens of mercy to
+            a cause most sacred and most oppressed. In the name of a people despised and
+            rejected of men&mdash;in the name of men of sorrows acquainted with grief,
+            from whom the faces of all the great and powerful of the earth have been
+            hid&mdash;in the name of oppressed and suffering humanity, I thank you. The
+            offering given is the dearer to me, and the more hopeful, that it is
+            literally the penny offering, given by thousands on thousands, a penny at a
+            time. When, in travelling through your country, aged men and women have met
+            me with such fervent blessings, little children gathered round me with such
+            loving eyes&mdash;when honest hands, hard with toil, have been stretched
+            forth with such hearty welcome&mdash;when I have seen how really it has come
+            from the depths of the hearts of the common people, and know, as I truly do,
+            what prayers are going up with it from the humblest homes of Scotland, I am
+            encouraged. I believe it is God who inspires this feeling, and I believe God
+            never inspired it in vain. I feel an assurance that the Lord hath looked down
+            from heaven to hear the groaning of the prisoner, and according to the
+            greatness of his power, to loose those that are appointed to die. In the
+            human view, nothing can be more hopeless than this cause; all the wealth, and
+            all the power, and all the worldly influence is against it. But here in
+            Scotland, need we tell the children of the Covenant, that the Lord on high is
+            mightier than all human power? Here, close by the spot where your fathers
+            signed that Covenant, in an hour when Scotland's cause was equally poor and
+            depressed&mdash;here, by the spot where holy martyrs sealed it with their
+            blood, it will neither seem extravagance nor enthusiasm to say to the
+            children of such parents, that for the support of this cause, we look, not to
+            the things that are seen, but to the things that are not seen; to that God,
+            who, in the face of all worldly power, gave liberty to Scotland, in answer to
+            your fathers' prayers. Our trust is in Jesus Christ, and in the power of the
+            Holy Ghost, and in the promise that he shall reign till he hath put all
+            things under his feet. There are those faithless ones, who, standing at the
+            grave of a buried humanity, tell us that it is vain to hope for our brother,
+            because he hath lain in the grave three days already. We turn from them to
+            the face of Him who has said, 'Thy brother shall rise again.' There was a
+            time when our great High Priest, our Brother, yet our Lord, lay in the grave
+            three days; and the governors and powers of the earth made it as sure as they
+            could, seeding the stone and setting a watch. But a third day came, and an
+            earthquake, and an angel. So shall it be to the cause of the oppressed;
+            though now small and despised, we are watchers at the sepulchre, like Mary
+            and the trusting women; we can sit through the hours of darkness. We are
+            watching the sky for the golden streaks of dawning, and we believe that the
+            third day will surely come. For Christ our Lord, being raised from the dead,
+            dieth no more; and he has pledged his word that he shall not fail nor be
+            discouraged till he have set judgment on the earth. He shall deliver the poor
+            when He crieth, the needy, and him that hath no helper. The night is far
+            spent&mdash;the day is at hand. The universal sighing of humanity in all
+            countries, the whole creation groaning and travailing in pain
+            together&mdash;the earnest expectation of the creature waiting for the
+            manifestation of the sons of God&mdash;show that the day is not distant when
+            he will break every yoke, and let the oppressed go free. And whatever we are
+            able to do for this sacred cause, let us cast it where the innumerable
+            multitude of heaven cast their crowns, at the feet of the Lamb, saying,
+            'Worthy is the Lamb that was slain to receive power, and riches, and wisdom,
+            and strength, and honor, and glory, and blessings.'"</p>
+            <p class="dgp">The Rev. Professor then continued. "My Lord Provost, Ladies
+            and Gentlemen: This cause, to be successful, must be carried on in a
+            religious spirit, with a deep sense of our dependence on God, and with that
+            love for our fellow-men which the gospel requires. It is because I think I
+            have met this spirit since I reached the shores of Great Britain, in those
+            who have taken an interest in the cause, that I feel encouraged to hope that
+            the expression of your feeling will be effective on the hearts of Christians
+            on the other side of the Atlantic. There are Christians there as sincere, as
+            hearty, and as earnest, as any on the face of the earth. They have looked at
+            this subject, and been troubled; they have hardly known what to do, and their
+            hearts have been discouraged. They have almost turned away their eyes from
+            it, because they have scarcely dared encounter it, the difficulties appeared
+            to them so great. Wrong cannot always receive the support of Christians;
+            wrong must be done away with; and what must be&mdash;what God requires to
+            be&mdash;that certainly will be. Now, in this age, man is every where
+            beginning to regard the sufferings of his fellow-man as his own. There is an
+            interest felt in man, as man, which was not felt in preceding ages. The
+            facilities of communication are bringing all nations in contact, and whatever
+            wrong exists in any part of the world, is every where felt. There are wrongs
+            and sufferings every where; but those to which we are accustomed, we look
+            upon with most indifference, because being accustomed to them, we do not feel
+            their enormity. You feel the enormity of slavery more than we do, because you
+            are not immediately interested, and regard it at a distance. We regard some
+            of the wrongs that exist in the old world with more sensibility than you can
+            regard them, because we are not accustomed to them, and you are. Therefore,
+            in the spirit of Christian love, it belongs to Christian men to speak to each
+            other with great fidelity. It has been said that you know little or nothing
+            about slavery. O, happy men, that you are ignorant of its enormities. [Hear,
+            hear!] But you do know something about it. You know as much about it as you
+            know of the widow-burning in India, or the cannibalism in the Fejee Islands,
+            or any of those crimes and sorrows of paganism, that induced you to send
+            forth your missionaries. You know it is a great wrong, and a terrible
+            obstacle to the progress of the gospel; and that is enough for you to know to
+            induce you to act. You have as much knowledge as ever induced a Christian
+            community in any part of the world to exert an influence in any other part of
+            the world. Slavery is a relic of paganism, of barbarism; it must be removed
+            by Christianity; and if the light of Christianity shines on it clearly, it
+            certainly will remove it. There are thousands of hearts in the United States
+            that rejoice in your help. Whatever expressions of impatience and petulance
+            you may hear, be assured that these expressions are not the heart of the
+            great body of the people. [Cheers.] A large proportion of that country is
+            free from slavery. There is an area of freedom ten times larger than Great
+            Britain in territory.<a href="#note_3"><span class="footnoteref">3</span></a>
+            [Cheers.] But all the power over the slave is in the hands of the
+            slaveholder. You had a power over the slaveholder by your national
+            legislature; our national legislature has no power over the slaveholder. All
+            the legislation that can in that country be brought to bear for the slave, is
+            legislation by the slaveholders themselves. There is where the difficulty
+            lies. It is altogether by persuasion, Christian counsel, Christian sympathy,
+            Christian earnestness, that any good can be effected for the slave. The
+            conscience of the people is against the system&mdash;the conscience of the
+            people, even in the slaveholding states; and if we can but get at the
+            conscience without exciting prejudice, it will tend greatly towards the
+            desired effect. But this appeal to the conscience must be unintermittent,
+            constant. Your hands must not be weary, your prayers must not be
+            discontinued; but every day and every hour should we be doing something
+            towards the object. It is sometimes said, Americans who resist slavery are
+            traitors to their country. No; those who would support freedom are the only
+            true friends of their country. Our fathers never intended slavery to be
+            identified with the government of the United States; but in the temptations
+            of commerce the evil was overlooked; and how changed for the worse has become
+            the public sentiment even within the last thirty or forty years! The enormous
+            increase in the consumption of cotton has raised enormously the market value
+            of slaves, and arrayed both avarice and political ambition in defence of
+            slavery. Instruct the conscience, and produce free cotton, and this will be
+            like Cromwell's exhortation to his soldiers, '<em>Trust in God, and keep your
+            powder dry</em>.'" [Continued cheers.]</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The Rev.
+            Dr. R. Lee</span> then said: "I am quite sure that every individual here
+            responds cordially to those sentiments of respect and gratitude towards our
+            honored guest which have been so well expressed by the Lord Provost and the
+            other gentlemen who have addressed us. We think that this lady has not only
+            laid us under a great obligation by giving us one of the most delightful
+            books in the English language, but that she has improved us as men and as
+            Christians, that she has taught us the value of our privileges, and made us
+            more sensible than we were before of the obligation which lies upon us to
+            promote every good work. I have been requested to say a few words on the
+            degradation of American slavery; but I feel, in the presence of the gentleman
+            who last addressed you, and of those who are still to address you, that it
+            would be almost presumption in me to enter on such a subject. It is
+            impossible to speak or to think of the subject of slavery without feeling
+            that there is a double degradation in the matter; for, in the first place,
+            the slave is a man made in the image of God&mdash;God's image cut in ebony,
+            as old Thomas Fuller quaintly but beautifully said; and what right have we to
+            reduce him to the image of a brute, and make property of him? We esteem
+            drunkenness as a sin. Why is it a sin? Because it reduces that which was made
+            in the image of God to the image of a brute. We say to the drunkard, 'You are
+            guilty of a sacrilege, because you reduce that which God made in his own
+            image "into the image of an irrational creature."' Slavery does the very
+            same. But there is not only a degradation committed as regards the
+            slave&mdash;there is a degradation also committed against himself by him who
+            makes him a slave, and who retains him in the position of a slave; for is it
+            not one of the most commonplace of truths that we cannot do a wrong to a
+            neighbor without doing a greater wrong to ourselves?&mdash;that we cannot
+            injure him without also injuring ourselves yet more? I observe there is a
+            certain class of writers in America who are fond of representing the feeling
+            of this country towards America as one of jealousy, if not of hatred.. I
+            think, my lord, that no American ever travelled in this country without being
+            conscious at once that this is a total mistake&mdash;that this is a total
+            misapprehension. I venture to say that there is no nation on the face of the
+            earth in which we feel half so much interest, or towards which we feel the
+            tenth part of the affection, which we do towards our brethren in the United
+            States of America. And what is more than that&mdash;there is no nation
+            towards which we feel one half so much admiration, and for which we feel half
+            so much respect, as we do for the people of the United States of America.
+            [Cheers.] Why, sir, how can it be otherwise? How is it possible that it
+            should be the reverse? Are they not our bone and our flesh? and their
+            character, whatever it is, is it any thing more than our own, a little
+            exaggerated, perhaps? Their virtues and their vices, their faults and their
+            excellences, are just the virtues and the vices, the faults and the
+            excellences, of that old respectable freeholder, John Bull, from whom they
+            are descended. We are not much surprised that a nation which are slaves
+            themselves should make other men slaves. This cannot very much surprise us:
+            but we are both surprised and we are deeply grieved, that a nation which has
+            conceived so well the idea of freedom&mdash;a nation which has preached the
+            doctrines of freedom with such boldness and such fulness&mdash;a nation which
+            has so boldly and perfectly realized its idea of freedom in every other
+            respect&mdash;should in this only instance have sunk so completely below its
+            own idea, and forgetting the rights of one class of their fellow-creatures,
+            should have deprived them of freedom altogether. I say that our grief and our
+            disapprobation of this in the case of our brethren in America arises very
+            much from this, that in other respects we admire them so much, we are sorry
+            that so noble a nation should allow a blot like this to remain upon its
+            escutcheon. I am not ignorant&mdash;nobody can be ignorant&mdash;of the great
+            difficulties which encompass the solution of this question in America. It is
+            vain for us to shut our eyes to it. There can be no doubt whatever that great
+            sacrifices will require to be made in order to get rid of this great evil.
+            But the Americans are a most ingenious people; they are full of inventions of
+            all sorts, from the invention of a machine for protecting our feet from the
+            water, to a machine for making ships go by means of heated air; from the one
+            to the other the whole field of discovery is occupied by their inventive
+            genius. There is not an article in common use among us but bears some stamp
+            of America. We rise in the morning, and before we are dressed we have had
+            half a dozen American articles in our hands. And during the day, as we pass
+            through the streets, articles of American invention meet us every where. In
+            short, the ingenuity of the people is proclaimed all over the world. And
+            there can be no doubt that the moment this great, this ingenious people finds
+            that slavery is both an evil and a sin, their ingenuity will be successfully
+            exerted in discovering some invention for preventing its abolition from
+            ruining them altogether. [Cheers.] No doubt their ingenuity will be equal to
+            the occasion; and I may take the liberty of adding, that their ingenuity in
+            that case will find even a richer reward than it has done in those other
+            inventions which have done them so much honor, and been productive of so much
+            profit. I say, that sacrifices must be made; there can be no doubt about
+            that; but I would also observe, that the longer the evil is permitted to
+            continue, the greater and more tremendous will become the sacrifice which
+            will be needed to put an end to it; for all history proves that a nation
+            encumbered, with slavery is surrounded with danger. [Applause.] Has the
+            history of antiquity been written in vain? Does it not teach us that not only
+            domestic and social pollutions are the inevitable results, but does it not
+            teach us also that political insecurity and political revolutions as
+            certainly slumber beneath the institution of slavery as fireworks at the
+            basis of Mount &AElig;tna? [Cheers.] It cannot but be so. Men no more than
+            steam can be compressed without a tremendous revulsion; and let our brethren
+            in America be sure of this, that the longer the day of reckoning is put off
+            by them, the more tremendous at last that reckoning will Be." [Loud,
+            applause.]</p>
+            <br />
+             
+            <p class="noindent">In regard to this meeting at Edinburgh, there was a
+            ridiculous story circulated and variously commented on in certain newspapers
+            of the United States, that <em>the American flag was there exhibited,
+            insulted, torn, and mutilated</em>. Certain religious papers took the lead in
+            propagating the slander, which, so for as I know or can learn, <em>had no
+            foundation</em>, unless it be that, in the arranging of the flag around its
+            staff, the stars might have been more distinctly visible than the stripes.
+            The walls were profusely adorned with drapery, and there were numerous flags
+            disposed in festoons. Truly a wonderful thing to make a story of, and then
+            parade it in the newspapers from Maine to Texas, beginning in
+            Philadelphia!</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_8" name="toc_8"></a> 
+            <h3 class="dgp">Public Meeting In Aberdeen&mdash;April 21.</h3>
+            <h3 class="sub">Address Of The Citizens.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mrs H.
+            Beecher Stowe</span>.</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Madam</span>: The citizens of Aberdeen have
+            much pleasure in embracing the opportunity now afforded them of expressing at
+            once their esteem for yourself personally, and their interest in the cause of
+            which you have been the distinguished advocate.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">While they would, not render a blind homage to mere genius,
+            however exalted, they consider genius such as yours, directed by Christian
+            principle, as that which, for the welfare of humanity, cannot be too highly
+            or too fervently honored.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Without depreciating the labors of the various advocates of
+            slave emancipation who have appeared from time to time on both sides of the
+            Atlantic, they may conscientiously award to you the praise of having brought
+            about the present universal and enthusiastic sentiment in regard to the
+            slavery which exists in America.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">The galvanic battery may be arranged and charged, every plate,
+            wire, and fluid being in its appropriate place; but, until some hand shall
+            bring together the extremities of the conducting medium, in vain might we
+            expect to elicit the latent fire.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Every heart may throb with the feeling of benevolence, and
+            every mind respond to the sentiment that man, in regard to man, should be
+            free and equal; but it is the province of genius such as yours to give unity
+            to the universal, and find utterance for the felt.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">When society has been prepared for some momentous movement or
+            moral reformation, so that the hidden thoughts of the people want only an
+            interpreter, the thinking community an organ, and suffering humanity a
+            champion, distinguished is the honor belonging to the individual in whom all
+            these requisites are found combined.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">To you has been assigned by Providence the important task of
+            educing the latent emotions of humanity, and waking the music that slumbered
+            in the chords of the universal human heart, till it has pealed forth in one
+            deep far rolling and harmonious anthem, of which the heavenly burden is,
+            "Liberty to the captive, and the opening of the prison to them that are
+            bound!"</p>
+            <p class="dgp">The production of your accomplished pen, which has already
+            called forth such unqualified eulogy from almost every land where Anglo-Saxon
+            literature finds access, and created so sudden and fervent an excitement on
+            the momentous subject of American slavery, has nowhere been hailed with a
+            more cordial welcome, or produced more salutary effects, than in the city of
+            Aberdeen.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Though long ago imbued, with antislavery principles and
+            interested in the progress of liberty in every part of the world, our
+            community, like many others, required such information, suggestions, and
+            appeals as your valuable work contains in one great department of slavery, in
+            order that their interest might be turned into a specific direction, and
+            their principles reduced, to combined practical effort.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Already they have esteemed it a privilege to engage with some
+            activity in the promotion of the interests of the fugitive slave; and they
+            shall henceforth regard with a deeper interest than ever the movements of
+            their American brethren in this matter, until there exists among them no
+            slavery from which to flee.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">While they participate in your abhorrence of slavery in the
+            American states, they trust they need scarcely assure you that they
+            participate also in your love for the American people.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">It is in proportion as they love that nation, attached to them
+            by so many ties, that they lament the existence of a system which, so long as
+            it exists, must bring odium upon the national character, as it cannot fail to
+            enfeeble and impair their best social institutions.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">They believe it to be a maxim that man cannot hold his
+            fellow-man in slavery without being himself to some extent enslaved. And of
+            this the censorship of the press, together with the expurgatorial indices of
+            various religious societies in the Southern States of America, furnish ample
+            corroboration.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">It is hoped that your own nation may speedily be directed to
+            recognize you as its best friend, for having stood forth in the spirit of
+            true patriotism to advocate the claims of a large portion of your countrymen,
+            and to seek the removal of an evil which has done much to neutralize the
+            moral influence of your country's best (and otherwise free) institutions.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Accept, then, from the community of Aberdeen their
+            congratulations on the high literary fame which you have by a single effort
+            so deservedly acquired, and their grateful acknowledgments for your advocacy
+            of a cause in which the best interests of humanity are involved.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Signed in name and by appointment of a public meeting of the
+            citizens of Aberdeen within the County Buildings, this 21st April, 1853,
+            A.D.</p>
+            <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Geo. Hessay</span>,</p>
+            <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><em>Provost of Aberdeen</em>.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_9" name="toc_9"></a> 
+            <h3 class="dgp">Public Meeting In Dundee&mdash;April 22.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mr.
+            Gilfillan</span>, who was received with great applause, said he had been
+            intrusted by the Committee of the Ladies' Antislavery Association to present
+            the following address to Mrs. Stowe, which he would read to the
+            meeting:&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"<span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Madam</span>: We, the ladies of the Dundee
+            Antislavery Association, desire to add our feeble voices to the acclamations
+            of a world, conscious that your fame and character need no testimony from us.
+            We are less anxious to honor you than to prove that our appreciation and
+            respect are no less sincere and no less profound than those of the millions
+            in other places and other lands, whom you have instructed, improved,
+            delighted, and thrilled. We beg permission to lay before you the expressions
+            of a gratitude and an enthusiasm in some measure commensurate with your
+            transcendent literary merit and moral worth. We congratulate you on the
+            success of the <em>chef-d'oeuvre</em> of your genius, a success altogether
+            unparalleled, and in all probability never to be paralleled in the history of
+            literature. We congratulate you still more warmly on that nobility and
+            benevolence of nature which made you from childhood the friend of the unhappy
+            slave, and led you to accumulate unconsciously the materials for the immortal
+            tale of Uncle Tom's Cabin. We congratulate you in having in that tale
+            supported with matchless eloquence and pathos the cause of the crushed, the
+            forgotten, the injured, of those who had no help of man at all, and who had
+            even been blasphemously taught by professed ministers of the gospel of mercy
+            that Heaven too was opposed to their liberation, and had blotted them out
+            from the catalogue of man. We recognize, too, with delight, the spirit of
+            enlightened and evangelical piety which breathes through your work, and
+            serves to confute the calumny that none but infidels are interested in the
+            cause of abolition&mdash;a calumny which cuts at Christianity with a yet
+            sharper edge than at abolition, but which you have proved to be a foul and
+            malignant falsehood. We congratulate you not only on the richness of the
+            laurels which you have won, but on the dignity, the meekness, and the
+            magnanimity with which these laurels have been worn. We hail in you our most
+            gifted sister in the great cause of liberty&mdash;we bid you warmly welcome
+            to our city, and we pray Almighty God, the God of the oppressed, to pour his
+            selectest blessings on your head, and to spare your invaluable life, till
+            yours, and ours, and others' efforts for the cause of abolition are crowned
+            with success, and till the shouts of a universal jubilee shall proclaim that
+            in all quarters of the globe the African is free."</p>
+            <p class="dgp">The address was handed to Mrs. Stowe amid great applause. MR.
+            GILFILLAN continued: "In addition to the address which I have now read, I
+            have been requested to add a few remarks; and in making these I cannot but
+            congratulate Dundee on the fact that Mrs. Stowe has visited it, and that she
+            has had a reception worthy of her distinguished merits. [Applause.] It is not
+            Dundee alone that is present here to-night: it is Forfarshire, Fifeshire, and
+            I may also add, Perthshire:&mdash;that are here to do honor to themselves in
+            doing honor to our illustrious guest. [Cheers.] There are assembled here
+            representatives of the general feeling that boils in the whole land&mdash;not
+            from our streets alone, but from our country valleys&mdash;from our glens and
+            our mountains O! I wish that Mrs. Stowe would but spare time to go herself
+            and study that enthusiasm amid its own mountain recesses, amid the uplands
+            and the friths, and the wild solitudes of our own unconquered and
+            unconquerable land. She would see scenery there worthy of that pencil which
+            has painted so powerfully the glories of the Mississippi; ay, and she would
+            find her name known and reverenced in every hamlet, and see copies of Uncle
+            Tom's Cabin in the shepherd's shieling, beside Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress,
+            the Life of Sir William Wallace, Rob Roy, and the Gaelic Bible. I saw copies
+            of it carried by travellers last autumn among the gloomy grandeurs of
+            Glencoe, and, as Coleridge once said when he saw Thomson's Seasons lying in a
+            Welsh wayside inn, 'That is true fame,' I thought this was fame truer still.
+            [Applause.] It is too late in the day to criticize Uncle Tom's Cabin, or to
+            speculate on its unprecedented history&mdash;a history which seems absolutely
+            magical. Why, you are reminded of Aladdin's lamp, and of the palace that was
+            reared by genii in one night. Mrs. Stowe's genius has done a greater wonder
+            than this&mdash;it has reared in a marvellously short time a structure which,
+            unlike that Arabian fabric, is a reality, and shall last forever. [Applause.]
+            She must not be allowed, to depreciate herself, and to call her glorious book
+            a mere 'bubble.' Such a bubble there never was before. I wish we had ten
+            thousand such bubbles. [Applause.] If it had been a bubble it would have
+            broken long ago. 'Man,' says Jeremy Taylor, 'is a bubble.' Yea, but he is an
+            immortal one. And such an immortal bubble is Uncle Tom's Cabin; it can only
+            with man expire; and yet a year ago not ten individuals in this vast assembly
+            had ever heard of its author's name. [Applause.] At its artistic merits we
+            may well marvel&mdash;to find in a small volume the descriptive power of a
+            Scott, the humor of a Dickens, the keen, observing glance of a Thackeray, the
+            pathos of a Richardson or Mackenzie, combined with qualities of earnestness,
+            simplicity, humanity, and womanhood peculiar to the author herself. But there
+            are three things which, strike me as peculiarly remarkable about Uncle Tom's
+            Cabin: it is the work of an American&mdash;of a woman&mdash;and of an
+            evangelical Christian. [Cheers.] We have long been accustomed to despise
+            American literature&mdash;I mean as compared with our own. I have heard
+            eminent <em>litterateurs</em> say, 'Pshaw! the Americans have no national
+            literature.' It was thought that they lived entirely on plunder&mdash;the
+            plunder of poor slaves, and of poor British authors. [Loud cheers.] Their own
+            works, when, they came among us, were treated either with contempt or with
+            patronizing wonder&mdash;yes, the 'Sketch Book' was a very good book to be an
+            American's. To parody two lines of Pope, we</p>
+            <div class="lg">
+              <p class="l">Admired such wisdom in a Yankee shape,</p>
+              <p class="l">And showed an Irving as they show an ape.'</p>
+            </div>
+            <p class="dgp">[Loud cheers.] And yet, strange to tell, not only of late have
+            we been almost deluged with editions of new and excellent American writers,
+            but the most popular book of the century has appeared on the west side of the
+            Atlantic. Let us hear no more of the poverty of American brains, or the
+            barrenness of American literature. Had it produced only Uncle Tom's Cabin, it
+            had evaded contempt just as certainly as Don Quixote, had there been no other
+            product of the Spanish mind, would have rendered it forever illustrious. It
+            is the work of a woman, too! None but a woman could have written it. There
+            are in the human mind springs at once delicate and deep, which only the
+            female genius can understand, or the female finger touch. Who but a female
+            could have created the gentle Eva, painted the capricious and selfish Marie
+            St. Clair, or turned loose a Topsy upon the wondering world? [Loud and
+            continued cheering.] And it is to my mind exceedingly delightful, and it must
+            be humiliating to our opponents, to remember that the severest stroke to
+            American slavery has been given by a woman's hand. [Loud cheers.] It was the
+            smooth stone from the brook which, sent from the hand of a youthful David,
+            overthrew Goliath of Gath; but I am less reminded of this than of another
+            incident in Scripture history. When the robber and oppressor of Israel,
+            Abimelech, who had slain his brethren, was rushing against a tower, whither
+            his enemies had fled, we are told that 'a certain woman cast a piece of a
+            millstone upon Abimelech's head, and all to break his skull,' and that he
+            cried hastily to the young man, his armor-bearer, and said unto him, 'Draw
+            thy sword, and slay me, that men say not of me, A woman slew him.' It is a
+            parable of our present position. Mrs. Stowe has thrown a piece of millstone,
+            sharp and strong, at the skull of the giant abomination of her country; he is
+            reeling in his death pangs, and, in the fury of his despair and shame, is
+            crying, but crying in vain, 'Say not, A woman slew me!' [Applause.] But the
+            world shall say, 'A woman slew him,' or, at least, 'gave him the first blow,
+            and drove him to despair and suicide.' [Cheers.] Lastly, it is the work of an
+            evangelical Christian; and the piety of the book has greatly contributed to
+            its power. It has forever wiped away the vile calumny, that all who love
+            their African brother hate their God and Savior. I look, indeed, on Mrs.
+            Stowe's volume, not only as a noble contribution to the cause of
+            emancipation, but to the general cause of Christianity. It is an olive leaf
+            in a dove's mouth, testifying that the waters of scepticism, which have
+            rolled more fearfully far in America than here,&mdash;and no wonder, if the
+            Christianity of America in general is a slaveholding, man-stealing,
+            soul-murdering Christianity&mdash;that they are abating, and that genuine
+            liberty and evangelical religion are soon to clasp hands, and to smile in
+            unison on the ransomed, regenerated, and truly 'United States.' [Loud and
+            reiterated applause.]"</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_10" name="toc_10"></a> 
+            <h3 class="dgp">Address Of The Students Of Glasgow University&mdash;April
+            25.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent">This address is particularly gratifying on account of its
+            recognition of the use of intoxicating drinks as an evil analogous to
+            slaveholding, and to be eradicated by similar means. The two reforms are in
+            all respects similar movements, to be promoted in the same manner and with
+            the same spirit.</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mrs.
+            Harriet Beecher Stowe</span>.</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Madam</span>: The Committee of the Glasgow
+            University Abstainers' Society, representing nearly one hundred students,
+            embrace the opportunity which you have so kindly afforded them, of expressing
+            their high esteem for you, and their appreciation of your noble efforts in
+            behalf of the oppressed. They cordially join in the welcome with which you
+            have been so justly received on these shores, and earnestly hope and pray
+            that your visit may be beneficial to your own health, and tend greatly to the
+            furtherance of Christian philanthropy.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">The committee have had their previous convictions confirmed,
+            and their hearts deeply affected, by your vivid and faithful delineations of
+            slavery; and they desire to join with thousands on both sides of the
+            Atlantic, who offer fervent thanksgiving to God for having endowed you with
+            those rare gifts, which have qualified you for producing the noblest
+            testimony against slavery, next to the Bible, which the world has ever
+            received.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">While giving all the praise to God, from whom cometh every
+            good and perfect gift, they may be excused for mentioning three
+            characteristics of your writings regarding slavery, which awakened their
+            admiration&mdash;a sensibility befitting the anguish of suffering millions;
+            the graphic power which presents to view the complex and hideous system,
+            stripped of all its deceitful disguises; and the moral courage that was
+            required to encounter the monster, and drag it forth to the gaze and the
+            execration of mankind.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">The committee feel humbled in being called to confess and
+            deplore, as existing among ourselves, another species of slavery, not less
+            ruinous in its tendency, and not less criminal in the sight of God&mdash;we
+            mean the slavery by strong drink. We feel too much ashamed of the sad
+            pre&euml;minence which these nations have acquired in regard to this vice to
+            take any offence at the reproaches cast upon us from across the Atlantic.
+            Such smiting shall not break our head. We are anxious to profit by it. Yet
+            when it is used as an argument to justify slavery, or to silence our
+            respectful but earnest remonstrances, we take exception to the parallelism on
+            which these arguments are made to rest. We do not justify our slavery. We do
+            not try to defend it from the Scriptures. We do not make laws to uphold it.
+            The unhappy victims of our slavery have all forged and riveted their own
+            fetters. We implore them to forbear; but, alas! in many cases without
+            success. We invite them to be free, and offer our best assistance to undo
+            their bonds. When a fugitive slave knocks at our door, escaping from a cruel
+            master, we try to accost him in the spirit or in the words of a well-known
+            philanthropist, "Come in, brother, and get warm, and get thy breakfast." And
+            when distinguished American philanthropists, who have done so much to undo
+            the heavy burdens in their own land, come over to assist us, we hail their
+            advent with rejoicing, and welcome them as benefactors. We are well aware
+            that a corresponding feeling would be manifested in the United States by a
+            portion, doubtless a large portion, of the population; but certainly not by
+            those who justify or palliate their own oppression by a reference to our
+            lamentable intemperance.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">We rejoice, madam, to know that as abstainers we can claim an
+            important place, pot only in your sympathies, but in your literary labors. We
+            offer our hearty thanks for the valuable contributions you have already
+            furnished in that momentous cause, and for the efforts of that distinguished
+            family with which you are connected.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">We bear our testimony to the mighty impulse imparted to the
+            public mind by the extensive circulation of those memorable sermons which
+            your honored father gave to Europe, as well as to America, more than
+            twenty-five years ago. It will be pleasing to him to know that the force of
+            his arguments is felt in British universities to the present time, and that
+            not only students in augmenting numbers, but learned professors, acknowledge
+            their cogency and yield to their power.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Permit us to add that a movement has already begun, in an
+            influential quarter in England, for the avowed purpose of combining the
+            patriotism and Christianity of these nations in a strenuous agitation for the
+            suppression, by the legislature, of the traffic in alcoholic drinks.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">In conclusion, the committee have only further to express
+            their cordial thanks for your kindness in receiving their address, and their
+            desire and prayer that you may be long spared to glorify God, by promoting
+            the highest interests of man; that if it so please him, you may live to see
+            the glorious fruit of your labors here cm earth, and that hereafter you may
+            meet the blessed salutation, "Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the
+            least of these my brethren, ye have done it unto me."</p>
+            <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Norman S. Kerr</span>,
+            <em>Secretary</em>.</p>
+            <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Stewart Bates</span>,
+            <em>President</em>.</p>
+            <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Glasgow</span>, 25th April, 1853.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_11" name="toc_11"></a> 
+            <h3 class="dgp">Loud Mayor's Dinner At The Mansion House, London&mdash;May
+            2.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mr.
+            Justice Talfourd</span>,<a href="#note_4"><span
+            class="footnoteref">4</span></a> having spoken of the literature of England
+            and America, alluded to two distinguished authors then present. The one was a
+            lady, who had shed a lustre on the literature of America, and whose works
+            were deeply engraven on every English heart. He spoke particularly of the
+            consecration of so much genius to so noble a cause&mdash;the cause of
+            humanity; and expressed the confident hope that the great American people
+            would see and remedy the wrongs so vividly depicted. The learned judge,
+            having paid an eloquent tribute to the works of Mr. Charles Dickens,
+            concluded by proposing "Mr. Charles Dickens and the literature of the
+            Anglo-Saxons."</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mr. Charles
+            Dickens</span> returned thanks. In referring to Mrs. H.B. Stowe, he observed
+            that, in returning thanks, he could not forget he was in the presence of a
+            stranger who was the authoress of a noble book, with a noble purpose. But he
+            had no right to call her a stranger, for she would find a welcome in every
+            English home.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_12" name="toc_12"></a> 
+            <h3 class="dgp">Stafford House Reception&mdash;May 7.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Duke Of Sutherland</span> having introduced Mrs. Stowe to the assembly, the
+            following short address was read and presented to her by the <span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Earl Of Shaftesbury</span>:&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"<span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Madam</span>: I am deputed by the Duchess
+            of Sutherland, and the ladies of the two committees appointed to conduct 'The
+            Address from the Women of England, to the Women of America on the Subject of
+            Slavery,' to express the high gratification they feel in your presence
+            amongst them this day.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"The address, which has received considerably more than half a
+            million of the signatures of the women of Great Britain and Ireland, they
+            have already transmitted to the United States, consigning it to the care of
+            those whom you have nominated as fit and zealous persons to undertake the
+            charge in your absence.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"The earnest desire of these committees, and, indeed, we may
+            say of the whole kingdom, is to cultivate the most friendly and affectionate
+            relations between the two countries; and we cannot but believe that we are
+            fostering such a feeling when we avow our deep admiration of an American lady
+            who, blessed by the possession of vast genius and intellectual powers, enjoys
+            the still higher blessing, that she devotes them to the glory of God and the
+            temporal and eternal interests of the human race."</p>
+            <br />
+             
+            <p class="noindent">The following is a copy of the address to which Lord
+            Shaftesbury makes reference:&mdash;</p>
+            <div class="display">
+              <p class="noindent">"<em>The affectionate and Christian Address of many
+              thousands of Women of Great Britain and Ireland to their Sisters, the Women
+              of the United States of America</em>.</p>
+              <p class="dgp">"A common origin, a common faith, and, we sincerely believe,
+              a common cause, urge us at the present moment to address you on the subject
+              of that system of negro slavery which still prevails so extensively, and
+              even under kindly-disposed masters, with such frightful results, in many of
+              the vast regions of the western world.</p>
+              <p class="dgp">"We will not dwell on the ordinary topics&mdash;on the
+              progress of civilization; on the advance of freedom every where; on the
+              rights and requirements of the nineteenth century; but we appeal to you
+              very seriously to reflect, and to ask counsel of God, how far such a state
+              of things is in accordance with his holy word, the inalienable rights of
+              immortal souls, and the pure and merciful spirit of the Christian
+              religion.</p>
+              <p class="dgp">"We do not shut our eyes to the difficulties, nay, the
+              dangers, that might beset the immediate abolition of that long-established
+              system; we see and admit the necessity of preparation for so great an
+              event; but in speaking of indispensable preliminaries, we cannot be silent
+              on those laws of your country which, in direct contravention of God's own
+              law, instituted in the time of man's innocency, deny, in effect, to the
+              slave the sanctity of marriage, with all its joys, rights, and obligations;
+              which separate, at the will of the master, the wife from the husband, and
+              the children from the parents. Nor can we be silent on that awful system
+              which, either by statute or by custom, interdicts to any race of men, or
+              any portion of the human family, education in the truths of the gospel, and
+              the ordinances of Christianity.</p>
+              <p class="dgp">"A remedy applied to these two evils alone would commence
+              the amelioration of their sad condition. We appeal to you, then, as
+              sisters, as wives, and as mothers, to raise your voices to your
+              fellow-citizens, and your prayers to God, for the removal of this
+              affliction from the Christian world. We do not say these things in a spirit
+              of self-complacency, as though our nation were free from the guilt it
+              perceives in others. We acknowledge with grief and shame our heavy share in
+              this great sin. We acknowledge that our forefathers introduced, nay,
+              compelled the adoption of slavery in those mighty colonies. We humbly
+              confess it before Almighty God; and it is because we so deeply feel, and so
+              unfeignedly avow, our own complicity, that we now venture to implore your
+              aid to wipe away our common crime, and our common dishonor."</p>
+            </div>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_13" name="toc_13"></a> 
+            <h3 class="dgp">Congregational Union&mdash;May 13.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Rev. John Angell James</span> said, "I will only for one moment revert to the
+            resolution.<a href="#note_5"><span class="footnoteref">5</span></a> It does
+            equal honor to the head, and the heart, and the pen of the man who drew it.
+            Beautiful in language, Christian in spirit, noble and generous in design, it
+            is just such a resolution as I shall be glad to see emanate from the
+            Congregational body, and find its way across the Atlantic to America. Sir, we
+            speak most powerfully, when, though we speak firmly, we speak in kindness;
+            and there is nothing in that resolution that can, by possibility, offend the
+            most fastidious taste of any individual present, or any individual in the
+            world, who takes the same views of the evil of slavery, in itself, as we do.
+            [Hear, hear!] I shall not trespass long upon the attention of this audience,
+            for we are all impatient to hear Professor Stowe speak in his own name, and
+            in the name of that distinguished lady whom it is his honor and his happiness
+            to call his wife. [Loud cheers.] His station and his acquirements, his
+            usefulness in America, his connection with our body, his representation of
+            the Pilgrim Fathers who bore the light of Christianity to his own country,
+            all make him welcome here. [Cheers.] But he will not be surprised if it is
+            not on his own account merely that we give him welcome, but also on account
+            of that distinguished woman to whom so marked an allusion has already been
+            made. To her, I am sure, we shall tender no praise, except the praise that
+            comes to her from a higher source than ours; from One who has, by the
+            testimony of her own conscience, echoing the voice from above, said to her,
+            'Well done, good and faithful servant.' Long, sir, may it be before the
+            completion of the sentence; before the welcome shall be given to her, when
+            she shall hear him say, 'Enter thou into the joy of thy Lord.' [Loud cheers.]
+            But, though we praise her not, or praise with chastened language, we would
+            say, Madam, we do thank you from the bottom of our hearts, [Hear, hear! and
+            immense cheering,] for rising up to vindicate our outraged humanity; for
+            rising up to expound the principles of our still nobler Christianity. For my
+            own part, it is not merely as an exposition of the evils of slavery that
+            makes me hail that wondrous volume to our country and to the world; but it is
+            the living exposition of the principles of the gospel that it contains, and
+            which will expound those principles to many an individual who would not hear
+            them from our lips, nor read them from our pens. I maintain, that Uncle Tom
+            is one of the most beautiful imbodiments of the Christian religion that was
+            ever presented in this world. [Loud cheers.] And it is that which makes me
+            take such delight in it. I rejoice that she killed him. [Laughter and
+            cheers.] He must die under the slave lash&mdash;he must die, the martyr of
+            slavery, and receive the crown of martyrdom from both worlds for his
+            testimony to the truth. [Turning to Mrs. Stowe, Mr. James continued:] May the
+            Lord God reward you for what you have done; we cannot, madam&mdash;we cannot
+            do it. [Cheers.] We rejoice in the perfect assurance, in the full confidence,
+            that the arrow which is to pierce the system of slavery to the heart has been
+            shot, and shot by a female hand. Right home to the mark it will go. [Cheers.]
+            It is true, the monster may groan and struggle for a long while yet; but die
+            it will; die it must&mdash;under the potency of that book. [Loud cheers.] It
+            never can recover. It will be your satisfaction, perhaps, in this world,
+            madam, to see the reward of your labors. Heaven grant that your life may be
+            prolonged, until such time as you see the reward of your labors in the
+            striking off of the last fetter of the last slave that still pollutes the
+            soil of your beloved country. [Cheers.] For beloved it is; and I should do
+            dishonor to your patriotism if I did not say it&mdash;beloved it is; and you
+            are prepared to echo the sentiments, by changing the terms, which we often
+            hear in old England, and say,&mdash;</p>
+            <div class="lg">
+              <p class="l">'America! with all thy faults I love thee still!'</p>
+            </div>
+            <p class="noindent">But still more intense will be my affection, and pure and
+            devoted the ardor of my patriotism, when this greatest of all thine ills,
+            this darkest of the blots upon thine escutcheon, shall be wiped out forever."
+            [Loud applause.]</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The Rev.
+            Professor Stowe</span> rose amid loud, and repeated cheers, and said, "It is
+            extremely painful for me to speak on the subject of American slavery, and
+            especially out of the borders of my own country. [Hear, hear!] I hardly know
+            whether painful or pleasurable emotions predominate, when I look upon the
+            audience to which I speak. I feel a very near affinity to the
+            Congregationalists of England, and especially to the Congregationalists of
+            London. [Cheers.] My ancestors were residents of London; at least, from the
+            time of Edward III.; they lived in Cornhill and Leadenhall Street, and their
+            bones lie buried in the old church of St. Andrew Under-Shaft; and, in the
+            year 1632, on account of their nonconformity, they were obliged to seek
+            refuge in the State of Massachusetts; and I have always felt a love and a
+            veneration for the Congregational churches of England, more than for any
+            other churches in any foreign land. [Cheers.] I can only hope, that my
+            conduct, as a religious man and a minister of Christ, may not bring discredit
+            upon my ancestors, and upon the honorable origin which I claim. [Hear! and
+            cheers.] I wish to say, in the first place, that in the United States the
+            Congregational churches, as a body, are free from slavery. [Cheers.] I do not
+            think that there is a Congregational church in the United States in which a
+            member could openly hold a slave without subjecting himself to discipline.<a
+            href="#note_6"><span class="footnoteref">6</span></a> True, I have met with
+            churches very deficient in their duty on this subject, and I am afraid there
+            are members of Congregational churches who hold slaves secretly as security
+            for debt in the Southern States. At the last great Congregational Convention,
+            held in the city of Albany, the churches took a step on the subject of
+            slavery much in advance of any other great ecclesiastical body in the
+            country. I hope it is but the beginning of a series of measures that will
+            eventuate in the separation of this body from all connection with slavery.
+            [Hear, hear!] I am extensively acquainted with the United States; I have
+            lived in different sections of them; I am familiar with people of all
+            classes, and it is my solemn conviction, that nine tenths of the people feel
+            on the subject of slavery as you do;<a href="#note_7"><span
+            class="footnoteref">7</span></a> [cheers;] perhaps not so intensely, for
+            familiarity with wrong deadens the conscience; but their convictions are
+            altogether as yours are; and in the slaveholding states, and among
+            slaveholders themselves, conscience is against the system. [Cheers.] There is
+            no legislative control of the subject of slavery, except by slaveholding
+            legislators themselves. Congress has no right to do any thing in the
+            premises. They violated the constitution, as I believe, in passing the
+            Fugitive Slave Act. [Cheers.] I do not believe they had any right to pass it.
+            [Hear, hear!] I stand here not as the representative of any body whatever. I
+            only represent myself, and give you my individual convictions, that have been
+            produced by a long and painful connection with the subject. [Hear, hear!] As
+            to the resolution, I approve it entirely. Its sentiment and its spirit are my
+            own. [Cheers.] At the close of the revolutionary war, which separated the
+            colonies from the mother country, every state of the Union was a slaveholding
+            state; every colony was a slaveholding colony; and now we have seventeen free
+            states. [Cheers.] Slavery has been abolished in one half of the original
+            colonies, and it was declared that there should be neither slavery nor the
+            slave trade in any territory north and west of the Ohio River; so that all
+            that part is entirely free from actual active participation in this curse,
+            laying open a free territory that, I think, must be ten times larger in
+            extent than Great Britain. [Loud cheers.] The State of Massachusetts was the
+            first in which slavery ceased. How did it cease? By an enactment of the
+            legislature? Not at all. They did not feel there was any necessity for such
+            an enactment. The Bill of Rights declared, that all men were born free, and
+            that they had an equal right to the pursuit of happiness and the acquisition
+            of property. In contradiction to that, there were slaves in every part of
+            Massachusetts; and some philanthropic individual advised a slave to bring
+            into court an action for wages against his master during all his time of
+            servitude. The action was brought, and the court decided that the negro was
+            entitled to wages during the whole period. [Cheers.] That put an end to
+            slavery in Massachusetts, and that decision ought to have put an end to
+            slavery in all states of the Union, because the law applied to all. They
+            abolished slavery in all the Northern States&mdash;in Maine, New Hampshire,
+            Vermont, Connecticut, and Rhode Island; and it was expected that the whole of
+            the states would follow the example. When I was a child, I never heard a lisp
+            in defence of slavery. [Hear, hear, hear!] Every body condemned it; all
+            looked upon it as a great curse, and all regarded it as a temporary evil,
+            which would soon melt away before the advancing light of truth. [Hear, hear!]
+            But still there was great injustice done to those who had been slaves. Every
+            body regarded the colored race as a degraded race; they were looked upon as
+            inferior; they were not upon terms of social equality. The only thing
+            approaching it was, that the colored children attended the schools with the
+            white children, and took their places on the same forms; but in all other
+            respects they were excluded from the common advantages and privileges of
+            society. In the places of worship they were seated by themselves; and that
+            difference always existed till these discussions came up, and they began to
+            feel mortified at their situation; and hence, wherever they could, they had
+            worship by themselves, and began to build places of worship for themselves;
+            and now you will scarcely find a colored person occupying a seat in our
+            places of worship. This stain still remains, and it is but a type of the
+            feeling that has been generated by slavery. This ought to be known and
+            understood, and this is just one of the out-croppings of that inward feeling
+            that still is doing great injustice to the colored race; but there are
+            symptoms of even that giving way.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"I suppose you all remember Dr.
+            Pennington&mdash;[cheers]&mdash;a colored minister of great talent and
+            excellence&mdash;[Hear, hear!]&mdash;though born a slave, and for many years
+            was a fugitive slave. [Hear, hear.] Dr. Pennington is a member of the
+            presbytery of New York; and within the last six months he has been chosen
+            moderator of that presbytery. [Loud cheers.] He has presided in that capacity
+            at the ordination of a minister to one of the most respectable churches of
+            that city. So far so good&mdash;we rejoice in it, and we hope that the same
+            sense of justice which has brought about that change, so that a colored man
+            can be moderator of a Presbytery in the city of New York, will go on, till
+            full justice is done to these people, and until the grievous wrongs to which
+            they have been subjected will be entirely done away. [Cheers.] But still,
+            what is the aspect which the great American nation now presents to the
+            Christian world? Most sorry am I to say it; but it is just this&mdash;a
+            Christian republic upholding slavery&mdash;the only great nation on earth
+            that does uphold it&mdash;a great Christian republic, which, so far as the
+            white people are concerned, is the fairest and most prosperous nation on
+            earth&mdash;that great Christian republic using all the power of its
+            government to secure and to shield this horrible institution of negro slavery
+            from aggression; and there is no subject on which the government is so
+            sensitive&mdash;there is no institution which it manifests such a
+            determination to uphold. [Hear, hear!] And then the most melancholy fact of
+            all is, that the entire Christian church in that republic, with few
+            exceptions, are silent, or are apologists for this great wrong. [Hear, hear!]
+            It makes my heart bleed to think of it; and there are many praying and
+            weeping in secret places over this curse, whose voices are not heard. There
+            is such a pressure on the subject, it is so mixed up with other things, that
+            many sigh over it who know not what to say or what to do in reference to it.
+            And what kind of slavery is it? Is it like the servitude under the Mosaic
+            law, which is brought forward to defend it? Nothing like it. Let me read you
+            a little extract from a correspondent of a New York paper, writing from
+            Paris. I will read it, because it is so graphic, and because I wish to show
+            from what sources you may best ascertain the real nature of American slavery.
+            The commercial newspapers, published by slaveholders, in slaveholding states,
+            will give you a far more graphic idea of what slavery actually is, than you
+            have from Uncle Tom's Cabin; for there the most horrible features are
+            softened. This writer says, 'And now a word on American representatives
+            abroad. I have already made my complaint of the troubles brought on Americans
+            here by that "incendiary" book of Mrs. Stowe's, especially of the difficulty
+            we have in making the French understand our institutions. But there was one
+            partially satisfactory way of answering their questions, by saying that Uncle
+            Tom's Cabin was a romance. And this would have served the purpose pretty
+            well, and spared our blushes for the model republic, if the slaveholders
+            themselves would only withhold their testimony to the truth of what we were
+            willing to let pass as fiction. But they are worse than Mrs. Stowe herself,
+            and their writings are getting to be quoted here quite extensively. The
+            <em>Moniteur</em> of to-day, and another widely-circulated journal that lies
+            on my table, both contain extracts from those extremely incendiary
+            periodicals, <em>The National Intelligencer</em>, of February 11, and <em>The
+            N.O. Picayune</em>, of February 17. The first gives an auctioneer's
+            advertisement of the sale of "a negro boy of eighteen years, a negro girl
+            aged sixteen, three horses, saddles, bridles, wheelbarrows," &amp;c. Then
+            follows an account of the sale, which reads very much like the description,
+            in the dramatic <em>feuilletons</em> here, of a famous scene in the <em>Case
+            de l'Oncle Tom</em>, as played at the <em>Ambigu Comique</em>. The second
+            extract is the advertisement of "our esteemed fellow-citizen, Mr. M.C.G.,"
+            who presents his "respects to the inhabitants of O. and the neighbouring
+            parishes," and "informs them that he keeps a fine pack of dogs trained to
+            catch negroes," &amp;c. It is painful to think that there are men in our
+            country who will write, and that there are others found to publish, such
+            tales as these about our peculiar institution. I put it to Mr. G., if he
+            thinks it is patriotic. As a "fellow-citizen," and in his private relations,
+            G. may be an estimable man, for aught I know, a Christian and a scholar, and
+            an ornament to the social circles of O. and the neighboring parishes. But as
+            an author, G. becomes public property, and a fair theme for criticism; and in
+            that capacity, I say G. is publishing the shame of his country. I call him
+            G., without the prefatory Mister, not from any personal disrespect, much as I
+            am grieved at his course as a writer, but because he is now breveted for
+            immortality, and goes down to posterity, like other immortals, without
+            titular prefix.' [Cheers.] Now, here is where you get the true features of
+            slavery. What is the reason that the churches, as a general thing, are
+            silent&mdash;that some of them are apologists, and that some, in the extreme
+            Southern States, actually defend slavery, and say it is a good institution,
+            and sanctioned by Scripture? It is simply this&mdash;the overwhelming power
+            of the slave system; and whence comes that overwhelming power? It comes from
+            its great influence in the commercial world. [Hear!] Until the time that
+            cotton became so extensively an article of export, there was not a word said
+            in defence of slavery, as far as I know, in the United States. In 1818, the
+            Presbyterian General Assembly passed resolutions unanimously on the subject
+            of slavery, to which this resolution is mildness itself; and not a man could
+            be found to say one word against it. But cotton became a most valuable
+            article of export. In one form and another, it became intimately associated
+            with the commercial affairs of the whole country. The northern manufacturers
+            were intimately connected with this cotton trade, and more than two thirds
+            raised in the United States has been sold in Great Britain; and it is this
+            cotton trade that supports the whole system. That you may rely upon. The
+            sugar and rice, so far as the United States are concerned, are but small
+            interests. The system is supported by this cotton trade, and within two days
+            I have seen an article written with vigor in the <em>Charleston Mercury</em>,
+            a southern paper of great influence, saying, that the slaveholders are
+            becoming isolated, by the force of public opinion, from the rest of the
+            world. They are beginning to be regarded as inhuman tyrants, and the slaves
+            the victims of their cruelty; but, says the writer, just so long as you take
+            our cotton, we shall have our slaves. Now, you are as really involved in this
+            matter as we are&mdash;[Hear, hear!]&mdash;and if you have no other right to
+            speak on the subject, you have a right to speak from being yourselves very
+            active participators in the wrong. You have a great deal of feeling on the
+            subject, honorable and generous feeling, I know&mdash;an earnest,
+            philanthropic, Christian feeling; but if you have nothing to do, that feeling
+            will all evaporate, and leave an apathy behind. Now, here is something to be
+            done. It may be a small beginning, but, as you go forward, Providence will
+            develop other plans, and the more you do, the further you will see. I am
+            happy to know that a beginning has been made. There are indications that a
+            way has been so opened in providence that this exigency can be met. Within
+            the last few years, the Chinese have begun to emigrate to the western parts
+            of the United States. They will maintain themselves on small wages; and
+            wherever they come into actual competition with slave labor, it cannot
+            compete with them. Very many of the slaveholders have spoken of this as a
+            very remarkable indication. If slavery had been confined to the original
+            slave states, as it was intended, slavery could not have lived. It was the
+            intention that it should never go beyond those boundaries. Had this been the
+            case, it would increase the number of slaves so much that they would have
+            been valueless as articles of property. I must say this for America, that the
+            slaves increase in the slave states faster than the white people; and it
+            shows that their physical condition is better than was that of the slaves at
+            the West Indies, or in Cuba, where the number actually diminished. We must
+            have more slave territories to make our slaves valuable, and there was the
+            origin of that iniquitous Mexican war, whereby was added the vast territory
+            of Texas; and then it was the intention to make California a slave state;
+            but, I am happy to say, it has been received into the Union as a free state,
+            and God grant it may continue so. [Hear, hear!] What has been the effect of
+            this expansion of slave territory? It has doubled the value of slaves. Since
+            I can remember, a strong slave man would sell for about four hundred or six
+            hundred dollars&mdash;that is, about one hundred pounds; but now, during the
+            present season, I have known instances in which a slave man has been sold for
+            two hundred and thirty pounds. There are more slaves raised in Virginia and
+            Maryland than they can use in those states in labor, and, therefore, they
+            sell them at one hundred, two hundred, or three hundred pounds, as the case
+            may be, for cash. All that Mrs. Tyler intimates in that letter about slavery
+            in America, and the impression it is calculated and intended to convey, that
+            they treat their slaves so well, and do not separate their families, and so
+            forth, is all mere humbug. [Laughter and cheers.] It is well known that
+            Virginia has more profit from selling negroes than from any other source. The
+            great sources of profit are tobacco and negroes, and they derive more from
+            the sale of negroes than tobacco. You see the temptation this gives to
+            avarice. Suppose there is a man with no property, except fifteen or twenty
+            negro men, whom he can sell, each one for two hundred pounds, cash; and he
+            has as many negro women, whom he can sell for one hundred and fifty pounds,
+            cash, and the children for one hundred pounds each: here is a temptation to
+            avarice; and it is calculated to silence the voice of conscience; and it is
+            the expansion of the slave territory, and the immense mercantile value of the
+            cotton, that has brought so powerful an influence to bear on the United
+            States in favor of slavery. [Hear, hear.] Now, as to free labor coming into
+            competition with slave labor: You will see, that when the price of slaves is
+            so enormous, it requires an immense outlay to stock a plantation. A good
+            plantation would take two hundred, or three hundred hands. Now, say for every
+            hand employed on this plantation, the man must pay on an average two hundred
+            pounds, which is not exorbitant at the present time. If he has to pay at this
+            rate, what an immense outlay of capital to begin with, and how great the
+            interest on that sum continually accumulating! And then there is the constant
+            exposure to loss. These plantation negroes are very careless of life, and
+            often cholera gets among them, and sweeps off twenty-five or thirty in a few
+            days; and then there is the underground railroad, and, with all the
+            precautions that can be taken, it continues to work. And now you see what an
+            immense risk, and exposure to loss, and a vast outlay of capital, there is in
+            connection with this system. But, if a man takes a cotton farm, and can
+            employ Chinese laborers, he can get them for one or two shillings a day, and
+            they will do the work as well, if not better than negroes, and there is no
+            outlay or risk. [Hear, hear!]. If good cotton fields can be obtained, as they
+            may in time, here is an opening which will tend to weaken the slave system.
+            If Christians will investigate this subject, and if philanthropists generally
+            will pursue these inquiries in an honest spirit, it is not long before we
+            shall see a movement throughout the civilized world, and the upholders of
+            slavery will feel, where they feel most acutely&mdash;in their pockets. Until
+            something of this kind is done, I despair of accomplishing any great amount
+            of good by simple appeals to the conscience and right principle. There are a
+            few who will listen to conscience and a sense of right, but there are
+            unhappily only a few. I suppose, though you have good Christians here, you
+            have many who will put their consciences in their pockets. [Hear, hear!] I
+            have known cases of this kind. There was a young lady in the State of
+            Virginia who was left an orphan, and she had no property except four negro
+            slaves, who were of great commercial value. She felt that slavery was wrong,
+            and she could not hold them. She gave them their
+            freedom&mdash;[cheers]&mdash;and supported herself by teaching a small
+            school. [Cheers.] Now, notwithstanding all the unfavorable things we
+            see&mdash;notwithstanding the dark cloud that hangs over the country, there
+            are hopeful indications that God has not forgotten us, and that he will carry
+            on this work till it is accomplished. [Hear!] But it will be a long while
+            first, I fear; and we must pray, and labor, and persevere; for he that
+            perseveres to the end, and he only, receives the crown. Now, there are very
+            few in the United States who undertake to defend slavery, and say it is
+            right. But the great majority, even of professors of religion, unite to
+            shield it from aggression. 'It is the law of the land,' they say, 'and we
+            must submit to it.' It seems a strange doctrine to come from the lips of the
+            descendants of the Puritans, those who resisted the law of the land because
+            those laws were against their conscience, and finally went over to that new
+            world, in order that they might enjoy the rights of conscience. How would it
+            have been with the primitive church if this doctrine had prevailed? There
+            never would have been any Christian church, for that was against the laws of
+            the land. In regard to the distribution of the Bible, in many states the laws
+            prohibit the teaching of slaves, and the distribution of the Bible is not
+            allowed among them. The American Bible Society does not itself take the
+            responsibility of this. It leaves the whole matter to the local societies in
+            the several states, and it is the local societies that take the
+            responsibility. Well, why should we obey the law of the land in South
+            Carolina on this subject, and disobey the law of the land in Italy? But our
+            missionary societies and Bible societies send Bibles to other parts of the
+            world, and never ask if it is contrary to the law of these lands, and if it
+            is, they push it all the more zealously. They send Bibles to Italy and Spain,
+            and yet the Bible is prohibited by those governments. The American Tract
+            Society and the American Sunday School Union allow none of their issues to
+            utter a syllable against slavery. They expunge even from their European books
+            every passage of this kind, and excuse themselves by the law and the public
+            sentiment. So are the people taught. There has been a great deal said on the
+            subject of influence from abroad; but those who talk in that way interfered
+            with the persecution of the Madiai, and remonstrated with the Tuscan
+            government. We have had large meetings on the subject in New York, and those
+            who refuse the Bible to the slave took part in that meeting, and did not seem
+            to think there was any inconsistency in their conduct.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"The Christian church knows no distinction of nations. In that
+            church there is neither Greek nor Jew, Barbarian, Scythian, bond nor free,
+            but all are one in Christ; and whatever affects one part of the body affects
+            the other, and the whole Christian church every where is bound to help, and
+            encourage, and rebuke, as the case may require. The Christian church is every
+            where bound to its corresponding branch in every other country; and thus you
+            have, not only a right, but it is your duty, to consider the case of the
+            American slave with just the same interest with which you consider the cause
+            of the native Hindoo, when you send out your missionaries there, or with
+            which you consider Madagascar; and to express yourselves in a Christian
+            spirit, and in a Christian way continually, till you see that your
+            admonitions have had a suitable influence. I do not doubt what you say, that
+            you will receive with great pleasure men who come from the United States to
+            promote the cause of temperance, and you may have the opportunity of showing
+            your sincerity before long; and the manner in which you receive them will
+            have a very important bearing on the subject of slavery. [Cheers.] I have not
+            the least doubt you will hail with joy those who will come across the
+            Atlantic to advance and promote still more earnestly those noble
+            institutions, the ragged schools and the ragged churches. [Cheers.] The men
+            who want to do good at home are the men who do good abroad; and the same
+            spirit of Christian liberality that leads you to feel for the American slave
+            will lead you to care for your own poor, and those in adverse circumstances
+            in your own land, I would ask, Is it possible, then, that admonition and
+            reproof given in a Christian spirit, and by a Christian heart, can fail to
+            produce a right influence on a Christian spirit and a Christian heart? I
+            think the thing is utterly impossible; and that if such admonitions as are
+            contained in the resolution, conceived in such a spirit, and so kindly
+            expressed&mdash;if they are not received in a Christian spirit, it is because
+            the Christian spirit has unhappily fled. I can answer for myself, at least,
+            and many of my brethren, that it will be so; and, so far from desiring you to
+            withhold your expressions on account of any bad feeling that they might
+            excite, I wish you to reiterate them, and reiterate them in the same spirit
+            in which they are given in this resolution; for I believe that these
+            expressions of impatience and petulance represent the feelings of very few.
+            Who is it that always speaks first? The angry man, and it comes out at once;
+            but the wise man keeps it in till afterwards; and it will not be long before
+            you will find, that whatever you say in a Christian spirit will be responded
+            to on the other side of the water. Now, I believe our churches have neglected
+            their duty on this subject, and are still neglecting it. Many do not seem to
+            know what their duty is. Yet I believe them to be good, conscientious men,
+            and men who will do their duty when they know what it is. Take, for example,
+            the American Board of Foreign Missions. There are not better men, or more
+            conscientious men, on the face of the earth, or men more sincerely desirous
+            of doing their duty; yet, in some things, I believe they are mistaken. I
+            think it would be better to throw over the very few churches connected with
+            the Board which are slaveholding, than to endeavor to sustain them, and to
+            have all this pressure of responsibility still upon them. But yet they are
+            pursuing the course which they conscientiously think to be right. Christian
+            admonition will not be lost upon them.<a href="#note_8"><span
+            class="footnoteref">8</span></a> I will say the same of the American Home
+            Missionary Society. They have little to do with slavery, as I have already
+            remarked. Many think they ought not to say any thing upon the subject,
+            because they cannot do so without weakening their influence. But then this
+            question comes: If good men do not speak, who will?&mdash;[Hear,
+            hear!]&mdash;and, as our Savior said in regard to the children that shouted,
+            Hosannah, 'If these should hold their peace, the stones would immediately cry
+            out.' It is in consequence of their silence that stones have begun to cry
+            out, and they rebuke the silence and apathy of good men; and this is made an
+            argument against religion, which has had effect with unthinking people; so I
+            think it absolutely necessary that men in the church, on that very ground,
+            should speak out their mind on this great subject at whatever
+            risk&mdash;[cheers]&mdash;and they must take the consequences. In due time
+            God will prosper the right, and in due time the fetters will fall from every
+            slave, and the black man will have the same privileges as the white.
+            [Applause.]"</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_14" name="toc_14"></a> 
+            <h3 class="dgp">Royal Highland School Society Dinner, At The Freemason's
+            Tavern, London&mdash;May 14.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Chairman, Sir Archibald Alison</span>, gave "The health of her Grace the
+            Duchess of Sutherland, and the noble patronesses of the Society," which was
+            received with great applause. It was extremely gratifying, he said, to find a
+            lady, belonging to one of the most ancient and noblest families of the
+            kingdom, displaying so great an interest in their institution. [Cheers.] Not
+            the least of their obligations to her Grace was the opportunity she had given
+            them to offer their respects to a lady, remarkable alike for her genius and
+            her philanthropy, who had come from across the Atlantic, and who, by her
+            philanthropic exertions in the cause of negro emancipation, had enlisted the
+            feelings and called forth the sympathies of thousands and tens of thousands
+            on both sides of the ocean. [Tremendous cheering.] She had shown that the
+            genius, and talents, and energies, which such a cause inspired, had created a
+            species of freemasonry throughout the world; it had set aside nationalities,
+            and bound two nations together which the broad Atlantic could not sever; and
+            created a union of sentiment and purpose which he trusted would continue till
+            the great work of negro emancipation had been finally accomplished.
+            [Cheers.]</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor
+            Stowe</span> responded to the allusion which had been made to Mrs. Stowe, and
+            was greeted with hearty applause. He said he had read in his childhood the
+            writings of Sir Walter Scott, and thus became intensely interested in all
+            that pertained to Scotland. [Cheers.] He had read, more recently, his Life of
+            Napoleon, and also Sir Archibald Alison's History of Europe. [Protracted
+            cheers.] But he certainly never expected to be called upon to address such an
+            assembly as that, and under such circumstances. Nothing could exceed the
+            astonishment which was felt by himself and Mrs. Stowe at the cordiality of
+            their reception in every part of Great Britain, from persons of every rank in
+            life. [Cheers.] Every body seemed to have read her book. [Hear, hear! and
+            loud cheers.] Everyone seemed to have been deeply interested, [cheers,] and
+            disposed to return a full-hearted homage to the writer. But all she claimed
+            credit for was truth, and honesty, and earnestness of purpose. He had only to
+            add that he cordially thanked the Royal Highland School Society for the
+            kindness which induced them to invite him and Mrs. Stowe to be present that
+            evening. [Cheers.] The work in which the society was engaged was one that
+            they both held dear, and in which they felt the deepest interest, inasmuch as
+            that object was to promote the education of youth among those whose poverty
+            rendered them unable to provide the means of education for themselves. [Hear,
+            hear!] In such works as that they had themselves for most of their lives been
+            diligently engaged. [Cheers.]</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_15" name="toc_15"></a> 
+            <h3 class="dgp">Antislavery Society, Exeter Hall&mdash;May 16.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The
+            Earl Of Shaftesbury</span>, who, on coming forward to open the proceedings,
+            was received with much applause, spoke as follows: "We are assembled here
+            this night to protest, with the utmost intensity, and with all the force
+            which language can command, against the greatest wrong that the wickedness of
+            man ever perpetrated upon his fellow-man&mdash;[loud cheers]&mdash;a wrong
+            which, great in all ages&mdash;great in heathen times&mdash;great in all
+            countries&mdash;great even under heathen sentiments&mdash;is indescribably
+            monstrous in Christian days, and exercised as it is, not unfrequently, over
+            Christian people. [Hear!] It is surely remarkable, and exceedingly
+            disgraceful to a century and a generation so boastful of its progress, and of
+            the institution of so many Bible societies, with so many professions and
+            preachments of Christianity&mdash;with so many declarations of the spiritual
+            value of man before God&mdash;after so many declarations of this equality of
+            every man in the sight of his fellow-man&mdash;that we should be assembled
+            here this evening to protest against the conduct of a mighty and a Protestant
+            people, who, in the spirit of the Romish Babylon, which they had renounced,
+            resort to her most abominable practices&mdash;making merchandise of the
+            temples of God, and trafficking in the bodies and souls of men. [Cheers.] We
+            are not here to proclaim and maintain our own immaculate purity. We are not
+            here to stand forward and say, 'I am holier than thou.' We have confessed,
+            and that openly, and freely, and unreservedly, our share, our heavy share, in
+            by-gone days, of vast wickedness; we have, we declare it again, and we had
+            our deep remorse. We sympathize with the preponderating bulk of the American
+            people; we acknowledge and we feel the difficulties which beset them; we
+            rejoice and we believe in their good intentions; but we have no
+            patience&mdash;I at least have none&mdash;with those professed leaders, be
+            they political or be they clerical, who mislead the people&mdash;with those
+            who, blasphemously resting slavery on the Holy Scriptures, desecrate their
+            pulpits by the promulgation of doctrines better suited to the synagogue of
+            Satan&mdash;[cheers]&mdash;nor with that gentleman who, the greatest officer
+            of the greatest republic in the whole world, in pronouncing an inaugural
+            address to the assembled multitudes, maintains the institution of slavery;
+            and&mdash;will you believe it?&mdash;invokes the Almighty God to maintain
+            those rights, and thus sanction the violation of his own laws!&mdash;[Cries
+            of 'Shame!'] This is, indeed, a dismal prospect for those who tremble at
+            human power; but we have this consolation: Is it not said that, 'When the
+            enemy shall come in like a flood, the Spirit of the Lord shall lift up a
+            standard against him?' [Hear, hear!] He has done so now, and a most wonderful
+            and almost inspired protector has arisen for the suffering of this much
+            injured race. [Loud cheers.] Feeble as her sex, but irresistible as virtue
+            and as truth, she will prove to her adversary, and to ours, that such
+            boasting shall not be for his honor, 'for the Lord will sell Sisera into the
+            hands of a woman.' [Hear, hear! and loud cheers.] Now, I ask you this: Is
+            there one of you who believes that the statements of that marvellous book to
+            which we have alluded present an exaggerated picture?&mdash;[Tremendous cries
+            of 'No, no.'] Do they not know, say what they will, that the truth is not
+            fully stated? [Hear, hear!] The reality is worse than the fiction. [Hear,
+            hear!] But, apart from this, there is our solemn declaration that the
+            vileness of the principle is at once exhibited in the mere notion of slavery,
+            and the atrocities of it are the natural and almost inevitable consequences
+            of the profession and exercise of absolute and irresponsible power. [Hear,
+            hear!] But do you doubt the fact? Look to the document. I will quote to you
+            from this book. I have never read any thing more strikingly illustrative or
+            condemnatory of the system we are here to denounce. Here is the judgment
+            pronounced by one of the judges in North Carolina. It is impossible to read
+            this judgment, however terrible the conclusion, without feeling convinced
+            that the man who pronounced it was a man of a great mind, and, in spite of
+            the law he was bound to administer, a man of a great heart. [Hear, hear!]
+            Hear what he says. The case was this: It was a 'case of appeal,' in which the
+            defendant had hired a slave woman for a year. During this time she committed
+            some slight offence, for which the defendant undertook to chastise her. After
+            doing so he shot at her as she was running away. The question then arose, was
+            he justified in using that amount of coercion? and whether the privilege of
+            shooting was not confined to the actual proprietor? The case was argued at
+            some length, and the court, in pronouncing judgment, began by deploring that
+            any judge should ever be called upon to decide such a case, but he had to
+            administer the law, and not to make it. The judge said, 'With whatever
+            reluctance, therefore, the court is bound to express the opinion, that the
+            dominion over a slave in Carolina has not, as it has been argued, any analogy
+            with the authority of a tutor over a pupil, of a master over an apprentice,
+            or of a parent over a child. The court does not recognize these applications.
+            There is no likeness between them. They are in opposition to each other, and
+            there is an impassable gulf between them. The difference is that which exists
+            between freedom and slavery&mdash;[Hear, hear!]&mdash;and a greater
+            difference cannot be imagined. In the one case, the end in view is the
+            happiness of the youth, born to equal rights with the tutor, whose duty it is
+            to train the young to usefulness by moral and intellectual instruction. If
+            they will not suffice, a moderate chastisement maybe administered. But with
+            slavery it is far otherwise.' Mark these words, for they contain the whole
+            thing. But with slavery it is far otherwise. The end is the profit of the
+            master, and the poor object is one doomed, in his own person, and in his
+            posterity, to live without knowledge, and without capacity to attain any
+            thing which he may call his own. He has only to labor, that another may reap
+            the fruits.' [Hear, hear!] Mark! this is from the sacred bench of justice,
+            pronounced by one of the first intellects in America! 'There is nothing else
+            which can operate to produce the effect; the power of the master must be
+            absolute, to render the submission of the slave perfect. [Hear, hear!] It is
+            inherent in the relation of master and slave;' and then he adds those
+            never-to-be-forgotten words, 'We cannot allow the right of the master to come
+            under discussion in the courts of justice. The slave must be made sensible
+            that there is no appeal from his master, and that his master's power is in no
+            instance usurped; that these rights are conferred by the laws of man, at
+            least, if not by the law of God.' [Loud cries of 'Shame, shame!'] This is the
+            mode in which we are to regard these two classes of beings, both created by
+            the same God, and both redeemed by the same Savior as ourselves, and destined
+            to the same immortality! The judgment, on appeal, was reversed; but, God be
+            praised; there is another appeal, and that appeal we make to the highest of
+            all imaginable courts, where God is the judge, where mercy is the advocate,
+            and where unerring truth will pronounce the decision![Protracted cheering.]
+            There are some who are pleased to tell us that there is an inferiority in the
+            race! That is untrue. [Cheers.] But we are not here to inquire whether our
+            black brethren will become Shakspeares or Herschels. [Hear, hear!] I ask, are
+            they immortal beings? [Great applause.] Do our adversaries, say no? I ask
+            them, then, to show me one word in the handwriting of God which has thus
+            levelled them with the brute beasts. [Hear, hear!] Let us bear in mind those
+            words of our blessed Savior&mdash;'Whosoever shall offend one of these little
+            ones who believe in me, it were better that a millstone were hanged about his
+            neck, and that he were cast into the depths of the sea.' [Loud cheers.] Now,
+            then, what is our duty? Is it to stand still? Yes! when we receive the
+            command from the same authority that said to the sun, Stand over Gibeon!
+            [Loud cheers.] Then, and not till then, will we stand still. [Renewed
+            cheers.] Are we to listen to the craven and miserable talk about 'doing more
+            harm than good'? [Hear, hear!] This was an argument which would have checked
+            every noble enterprise which has been undertaken since the world began. It
+            would have strangled Wilberforce, and checked the very Exodus itself from the
+            house of bondage in Egypt. [Hear, hear!] Out on all such craven talk!
+            [Cheers.] Slavery is a mystery, and so is all sin, and we must fight against
+            it; and, by the blessing of God, we will. [Loud cheers.] We must pray to
+            Almighty God, that we and our American brethren&mdash;who seem now to be the
+            sole depositories of the Protestant truth, and of civil and religious
+            liberty, may be as one. [Cheers.] We are feeble, if hostile; but, if united,
+            we are the arbiters of the world. [Cheers.] Let us join together for the
+            temporal and spiritual good of our race."</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor
+            Stowe</span> then came forward, and was received with unbounded
+            demonstrations of applause. When the cheering had subsided, he said "he felt
+            utterly exhausted by the heat and excitement of the meeting, and should
+            therefore be glad to be excused from saying a single word; however, he would
+            utter a few thoughts. The following was the resolution which he had to submit
+            to the meeting: 'That with a view to the correction of public sentiment on
+            this subject in slaveholding communities, it is of the first importance that
+            those who are earnest in condemnation of slavery should observe consistency;
+            and, therefore, that it is their duty to encourage the development of the
+            natural resources of countries where slavery does not exist, and the soil of
+            which is adapted to the growth of products&mdash;especially of
+            cotton&mdash;now partially or chiefly raised by slave labor; and though the
+            extinction of slavery is less to be expected from a diminished demand for
+            slave produce than from the moral effects of a steadfast abhorrence of
+            slavery itself, and from an unwavering and consistent opposition to it, this
+            meeting would earnestly recommend, that in all cases where it is practicable,
+            a decided preference should be given to the products of free labor, by all
+            who enter their protest against slavery, so that at least they themselves may
+            be clear of any participation in the guilt of the system, and be thus morally
+            strengthened in their condemnation of it.' At the close of the revolutionary
+            war, all the states of America were slaveholding states. In Massachusetts,
+            some benevolent white man caused a slave to try an action for wages in a
+            court of justice. He succeeded, and the consequence was, that slavery fell in
+            Massachusetts. It was then universally acknowledged that slavery was a sin
+            and shame, and ought to be abolished, and it was expected that it would be
+            soon abolished in every state of the Union. Mr. Jefferson, Mr. Madison, and
+            Benjamin Franklin would not allow the word 'slave' to occur in the
+            constitution, and Mr. Edwards, from the pulpit, clearly and broadly denounced
+            slavery. And when he (Professor Stowe) was a boy, in Massachusetts the negro
+            children were admitted to the same schools with the whites. Although there
+            was some prejudice of color then, yet it was not so strong as at present. In
+            1818, the General Assembly of the Presbyterian church in the United States
+            passed, resolutions against slavery far stronger than those passed at the
+            meeting this evening, and every man, north and south, voted for them. What
+            had caused the change? It was the profitableness of the cotton trade. It was
+            that which had spread the chains of slavery over the Union, and silenced the
+            church upon the subject. He had been asked, what right had Great Britain to
+            interfere? Why, Great Britain took four fifths of the cotton of America, and
+            therefore sustained four fifths of the slavery. That gave them a right to
+            interfere. [Hear, hear!] He admitted that our participation in the guilt was
+            not direct, but without the cotton, trade of Great Britain slavery would have
+            been abolished long ago, for the American manufacturers consumed but one
+            fifth of all the cotton grown in the country. The conscience of the cotton
+            growers was talked of; but had the cotton consumer no conscience? [Cheers.]
+            It seemed to him that the British public had more direct access to the
+            consumer than to the grower of cotton." Professor Stowe then read an extract
+            from a paper published in Charleston, South Carolina, showing the influence
+            of the American cotton trade on the slavery question. "The price of cotton
+            regulated the price of slaves, who were now worth an average of two hundred
+            pounds. A cotton plantation required in some cases two hundred, and in others
+            four hundred slaves. This would give an idea of the capital needed. With free
+            labor there was none of this outlay&mdash;there was none of those losses by
+            the cholera, and the 'underground railroad,' to which the slave owners were
+            subjected. [Hear, hear!] The Chinese had come over in large numbers, and
+            could be hired for small wages, on which they managed to live well in their
+            way. If people would encourage free-grown cotton, that would be the strongest
+            appeal they could make to the slaveholder. There were three ways of
+            abolishing slavery. First, by a bloody revolution, which few would approve.
+            [Hear, hear!] Secondly, by persuading slaveholders of the wrong they commit;
+            but this would have little effect so long as they bought their cotton. [Hear,
+            hear!] And the third and most feasible way was, by making slave labor
+            unprofitable, as compared with free labor. [Hear!] When the Chinese first
+            began to emigrate to California, it was predicted that slavery would be 'run
+            out' that way. He hoped it might be so. [Cheers.] The reverend gentleman then
+            reverted to his previous visit to this country, seventeen years ago, and
+            described the rapid strides which had been made in the work of
+            education&mdash;especially the education of the poor&mdash;in the interval.
+            It was most gratifying to him, and more easily seen by him than it would be
+            by us, with whom the change had been gradual. He had been told in America
+            that the English abolitionists were prompted by jealousy of America, but he
+            had found that to be false. The Christian feeling which had dictated efforts
+            on behalf of ragged schools and factory children, and the welfare of the poor
+            and distressed of every kind, had caused the same Christian hearts to throb
+            for the American slave. It was that Christian philanthropy which received all
+            men as brethren&mdash;children of the same father, and therefore he had great
+            hopes of success. [Cheers.]"</p>
+            <br />
+             
+            <p class="noindent">My remarks on the cotton business of Britain were made
+            with entire sincerity, and a single-hearted desire to promote the antislavery
+            cause. They are sentiments which I had long entertained, and which I had
+            taken every opportunity to express with the utmost freedom from the time of
+            my first landing in Liverpool, the great cotton mart of England, and where,
+            if any where, they might be supposed capable of giving offence; yet no
+            exception was taken to them, so far as I know, till delivered in Exeter Hall.
+            There they were heard by some with surprise, and by others with extreme
+            displeasure. I was even called <em>proslavery</em>, and ranked with Mrs.
+            Julia Tyler, for frankly speaking the truth, under circumstances of great
+            temptation to ignore it.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Still I have the satisfaction of knowing that both my views
+            and my motives were rightly understood and properly appreciated by
+            large-hearted and clear-headed philanthropists, like the Earl of Shaftesbury
+            and Joseph Sturge, and very fairly represented and commented upon by such
+            religious and secular papers as the Christian Times, the British Banner, the
+            London Daily News and Chronicle; and even the <em>thundering political</em>
+            Times seemed disposed, in a half-sarcastic way, to admit that I was more than
+            half right.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">But it is most satisfactory of all to know that the best of
+            the British abolitionists are now acting, promptly and efficiently, in
+            accordance with those views, and are determined to develop the resources of
+            the British empire for the production of cotton by free labor. The thing is
+            practicable, and not of very difficult accomplishment. It is furthermore
+            absolutely essential to the success of the antislavery cause; for now the
+            great practical leading argument for slavery is, <em>Without slavery you can
+            have no cotton, and cotton you must and will have</em>. The latest work that
+            I have read in defence of slavery (Uncle Tom in Paris, Baltimore, 1854) says,
+            (pp. 56-7,) "<em>Of the cotton which supplies the wants of the civilized
+            world, the south produces 86 per cent.; and without slave labor experience
+            has shown that the cotton plant cannot be cultivated</em>."</p>
+            <p class="dgp">How the matter is viewed by sagacious and practical minds in
+            Britain, is clear from the following sentences, taken from the National
+            Era:&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"<span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Cotton</span> is <span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">King</span>.&mdash;Charles Dickens, in a
+            late number of his Household Words, after enumerating the striking facts of
+            cotton, says,&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"'Let any social or physical convulsion visit the United
+            States, and England would feel the shock from Land's End to John o'Groat's.
+            The lives of nearly two millions of our countrymen are dependent upon the
+            cotton crops of America; their destiny may be said, without any sort of
+            hyperbole, to hang upon a thread.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"'Should any dire calamity befall the land of cotton, a
+            thousand of our merchant ships would rot idly in dock; ten thousand mills
+            must stop their busy looms, and two million mouths would starve for lack of
+            food to feed them.'</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"How many non-slaveholders elsewhere are thus interested in
+            the products of slaves? Is it not worthy the attention of genuine
+            philanthropists to inquire whether cotton cannot be profitably cultivated by
+            free labor?"</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_16" name="toc_16"></a> 
+            <h3 class="dgp">Soir&eacute;e At Willis's Rooms&mdash;May 25.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mr.
+            Joseph Sturge</span> took the chair, announcing that he did so in the absence
+            of the Earl of Shaftesbury, who was prevented from attending.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">It was announced that letters had been received from the Duke
+            of Newcastle and the Earls of Carlisle and Shaftesbury, expressing their
+            sympathy with the object of the meeting, and their regret at being unable to
+            attend.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">The Secretary, <span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Samuel Bowley, Esq.</span>, of Gloucester,
+            then read the address, which was as follows:&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"<span class="hi"
+            style="font-variant: small-caps;">Madam</span>: It is with feelings of the
+            deepest interest that the committee of the British and Foreign Antislavery
+            Society, on behalf of themselves and of the society they represent, welcome
+            the gifted authoress of Uncle Tom's Cabin to the shores of Great Britain.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"As humble laborers in the cause of negro emancipation, we
+            hail, with emotions more easily imagined than described, the appearance of
+            that remarkable work, which has awakened a world-wide sympathy on behalf of
+            the suffering negro, and called forth a burst of honest indignation against
+            the atrocious system of slavery, which, we trust, under the divine blessing,
+            will, at no distant period, accomplish its entire abolition. We are not
+            insensible to those extraordinary merits of Uncle Tom's Cabin, as a merely
+            literary production, which have procured for its talented authoress such
+            universal commendation and enthusiastic applause; but we feel it to be our
+            duty to refer rather to the Christian principles and earnest piety which
+            pervade its interesting pages, and to express our warmest desire, we trust we
+            may say heartfelt prayer, that He who bestowed upon you the power and the
+            grace to write such a work may preserve and bless you amid all your honours,
+            and enable you, under a grateful and humble sense of his abundant goodness,
+            to give him all the glory.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"We rejoice to find that the great principles upon which our
+            society is based are so fully and so cordially recognized by yourself and
+            your beloved husband and brother&mdash;First, that personal slavery, in all
+            its varied forms, is a direct violation of the blessed, precepts of the
+            gospel, and therefore a sin in the sight of God; and secondly, that every
+            victim of this unjust and sinful system is entitled to immediate and
+            unconditional freedom. For, however we might acquiesce in the course of a
+            nation which, under a sense of its participation in the guilt of slavery,
+            should share the pecuniary loss, if such there were, of its immediate
+            abolition, yet we repudiate the right to demand compensation for human flesh
+            and blood, as (to employ the emphatic words of Lord Brougham) we repudiate
+            and abhor 'the wild and guilty fantasy that man can hold property in man.'
+            And we do not hesitate to express our conviction, strengthened by the
+            experience of emancipation in our own colonies, that on the mere ground of
+            social or political expediency, the immediate termination of slavery would be
+            far less dangerous and far less injurious than, any system of compromise, or
+            any attempt at gradual emancipation.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Let it be borne in mind, however,&mdash;and we record it with
+            peculiar interest on the present occasion,&mdash;that it was the pen of a
+            woman that first publicly enunciated the imperative duty of immediate
+            emancipation. Amid vituperation and ridicule, and, far worse, the cold rebuke
+            of Christian friends, Mrs. Elizabeth Heyrick boldly sent forth the thrilling
+            tract which taught the abolitionists of Great Britain this lesson of justice
+            and truth; and we honor her memory for her deeds. Again we are indebted to
+            the pen of a woman for pleading yet more powerfully the cause of justice to
+            the slave; and again we have to admire and honor the Christian heroism which
+            has enabled you, dear madam, to brave the storm of public opinion, and to
+            bear the frowns of the church in your own land, while you boldly sent forth
+            your matchless volume to teach more widely and more attractively the same
+            righteous lesson.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"We desire to feel grateful for the measure of success that
+            has crowned the advocacy of these sound antislavery principles in our own
+            country; but we cannot but feel, that as regards the continuance of slavery
+            in America, we have cause for humiliation and shame in the existence of the
+            melancholy fact that a large proportion of the fruits of the bitter toil and
+            suffering of the slaves in the western world are used to minister to the
+            comfort and the luxury of our own population. When this anomaly of a
+            country's putting down slavery by law on the one hand, and supporting it by
+            its trade and commerce on the other, will be removed, it is not for us to
+            predict; but we are conscious that our position is such as should at least
+            dissipate every sentiment of self-complacency, and make us feel, both
+            nationally and individually, how deep a responsibility still rests upon us to
+            wash our own hands of this iniquity, and to seek by every legitimate means in
+            our power to rid the world of this fearful institution.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"True Christian philanthropy knows no geographical limits, no
+            distinctions of race or color; but wherever it sees its fellow-man the victim
+            of suffering and oppression, it seeks to alleviate his sorrows, or drops a
+            tear of sympathy over the afflictions which it has not the power to remove.
+            We cannot but believe that these enlarged and generous sympathies will be
+            aroused and strengthened in the hearts of thousands and tens of thousands of
+            all classes who have wept over the touching pages of Uncle Tom's Cabin. We
+            have marked the rapid progress of its circulation from circle to circle, and
+            from country to country, with feelings of thrilling interest; for we trust,
+            by the divine blessing upon the softening influence and Christian sentiments
+            it breathes, it will be made the harbinger of a better and brighter day for
+            the happiness and the harmony of the human family. The facilities for
+            international intercourse which we now possess, while they rapidly tend to
+            remove those absurd jealousies which have so long existed between the nations
+            of the earth, are daily increasing the power of public opinion in the world
+            at large, which is so well described by one of our leading statesmen in these
+            forcible words: 'It is quite true, it may be said, what are opinions against
+            armies? Opinions, if they are founded in truth and justice, will in the end
+            prevail against the bayonets of infantry, the fire of artillery, and the
+            charges of cavalry.' Responding most cordially to these sentiments, we
+            rejoice with thanksgiving to God that you, whom we now greet and welcome as
+            our dear and honored friend, have been enabled to exemplify their beauty and
+            their truth; for it is our firm conviction that the united powers of Europe,
+            with all their military array, could not accomplish what you have done,
+            through the medium of public opinion, for the overthrow of American
+            slavery.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"The glittering steel of the warrior, though steeped in the
+            tyrant's blood, would be weak when compared with a woman's pen dipped in the
+            milk of human kindness, and softened by the balm of Christian love. The words
+            that have drawn a tear from the eye of the noble, and moistened the dusky
+            cheek of the hardest sons of toil, shall sink into the heart and weaken the
+            grasp of the slaveholder, and crimson with a blush of shame many an American
+            citizen who has hitherto defended or countenanced by his silence this bitter
+            reproach on the character and constitution of his country.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"To the tender mercies of Him who died to save their immortal
+            souls we commend the downcast slaves for freedom and protection, and, in the
+            heart-cheering belief that you have been raised up as an honored instrument
+            in God's hand to hasten the glorious work of their emancipation, we crave
+            that his blessing, as well as the blessing of him that is ready to perish,
+            may abundantly rest upon you and yours. With sentiments of the highest esteem
+            and respect, dear madam, we affectionately subscribe ourselves your friends
+            and fellow-laborers."</p>
+            <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor
+            Stowe</span> was received with prolonged cheering. He said, "Besides the
+            right which I have, owing to the relationship subsisting between us, to
+            answer for the lady whom you have so honored, I may claim a still greater
+            right in my sympathy for her efforts. [Hear!] We are perfectly agreed in
+            every point with regard to the nature of slavery, and the best means of
+            getting rid of it. I have been frequently called on to address public
+            meetings since I have been on these shores, and though under circumstances of
+            great disadvantage, and generally with little time, if any, for preparation,
+            still the very great kindness which has been manifested to Mrs. Stowe and to
+            myself, and to our country, afflicted as it is with this great evil, has
+            enabled me to bear a burden which otherwise I should have found
+            insupportable. But of all the addresses we have received, kind and
+            considerate as they have all been, I doubt whether one has so completely
+            expressed the feelings and sympathies of our own hearts as the one we have
+            just heard. It is precisely the expressions of our own thoughts and feelings
+            on the whole subject of slavery. As this is probably the last time I shall
+            have an opportunity of addressing an audience in England, I wish briefly to
+            give you an outline of our views as to the best means of dealing with that
+            terrible subject of slavery, for in our country it is really terrible in its
+            power and influence. Were it not that Providence seems to be lifting a light
+            in the distance, I should be almost in despair. There is now a system of
+            causes at work which Providence designs should continue to work, until that
+            great curse is removed from the face of the earth. I believe that in dealing
+            with the subject of slavery, and the best means of removing it, the first
+            thing is to show the utter wrongfulness of the whole system. The great moral
+            ground is the chief and primary ground, and the one on which we should
+            always, and under all circumstances, insist. With regard to the work which
+            has created so much excitement, the great excellence of it morally is, that
+            it holds up fully and emphatically the extreme wrongfulness of the system,
+            while at the same time showing an entire Christian and forgiving spirit
+            towards those involved in it; and it is these two characteristics which, in
+            my opinion, have given it its great power. Till I read that book, I had never
+            seen any extensive work that satisfied me on those points. It does show, in
+            the most striking manner, the horrible wrongfulness of the system, and, at
+            the same time, it displays no bitterness, no unfairness, no unkindness, to
+            those involved in it. It is that which gives the work the greater power, for
+            where there is unfairness, those assailed take refuge behind it; while here
+            they have no such refuge. We should always aim, in assailing the system of
+            slavery, to awaken the consciences of those involved in it; for among
+            slaveholders there are all kinds of moral development, as among every other
+            class of people in the world. There are men of tender conscience, as well as
+            men of blunted conscience; men with moral sense, and men with no moral sense
+            whatever; some who have come into the system involuntarily, born in it, and
+            others who have come into it voluntarily. There is a moral nature in every
+            man, more or less developed; and according as it is developed we can, by
+            showing the wrong of a thing, bring one to abhor it. We have the testimony of
+            Christian clergymen in slave holding states, that the greater portion of the
+            Christian people there, and even many slaveholders, believe the system is
+            wrong; and it is only a matter of time, a question of delay, as to when they
+            shall perform their whole duty, and bring it to an end.<a
+            href="#note_9"><span class="footnoteref">9</span></a> One would believe that
+            when they saw a thing to be wrong, they would at once do right; but
+            prejudice, habit, interest, education, and a variety of influences check
+            their aspirations to what is right; but let us keep on pressing it upon their
+            consciences, and I believe their consciences will at length respond. Public
+            sentiment is more powerful than force, and it may be excited in many ways.
+            Conversation, the press, the platform, and the pulpit may all be used to
+            awaken the feeling of the people, and bring it to bear on this question. I
+            refer especially to the pulpit; for, if the church and the ministry are
+            silent, who is to speak for the dumb and the oppressed? The thing that has
+            borne on my mind with the most melancholy weight, and caused me most sorrow,
+            is the apparent apathy, the comparative silence, of the church on this
+            subject for the last twenty or five and twenty years in the United States.
+            Previous to that period it did speak, and with words of power; but,
+            unfortunately, it has not followed out those words by acts. The influence of
+            the system has come upon it, and brought it, for a long time, almost to
+            entire silence; but I hope we are beginning to speak again. We hear voices
+            here and there which will excite other voices, and I trust before long they
+            will bring all to speak the same thing on this subject, so that the
+            conscience of the whole nation may be aroused. There is another method of
+            dealing with the subject, which is alluded to in the address, and also in the
+            resolution of the society, at Exeter Hall. It is the third resolution
+            proposed at that meeting, and I will read it, and make some comments as I
+            proceed. It begins, 'That, with a view to the correction of public sentiment
+            on this subject in slaveholding communities, it is of the first importance
+            that those who are earnest in condemnation of slavery should observe
+            consistency, and, therefore, that it is their duty to encourage the
+            development of the natural resources of countries where slavery does not
+            exist, and the soil of which is adapted to the growth of products, especially
+            cotton, now partially or chiefly raised by slave labor.' Now, I concur with
+            this most entirely, and would refer you to countries where cotton can be
+            grown even in your own dominions&mdash;in India, Australia, British Guiana,
+            and parts of Africa. But it can be raised by free labor in the United States,
+            and indeed it is already raised there by free labor to a considerable extent;
+            and, provided the plan were more encouraged, it could be raised more
+            abundantly. The resolution goes on to say, 'And though the extinction of
+            slavery is less to be expected from a diminished demand for slave produce
+            than from the moral effects of a steadfast abhorrence of slavery, and from an
+            unwavering and consistent opposition to it,' &amp;c. Now, my own feelings on
+            that subject are not quite so hopeless as here expressed, and it seems to me
+            that you are not aware of the extent to which free labor may come into
+            competition with slave labor. I know several instances, in the most
+            slaveholding states, in which slave labor has been displaced, and free labor
+            substituted in its stead. The weakness of slavery consists in the expense of
+            the slaves, the great capital to be invested in their purchase before any
+            work can be performed, and the constant danger of loss by death or escape.
+            When the Chinese emigrants from the eastern portion of their empire came to
+            the North-western States, their labor was found much cheaper and better than
+            that of slaves. I therefore hope there may be a direct influence from this
+            source, as well as the indirect influence contemplated by the resolution. At
+            all events, it is an encouragement to those who wish the extinction of
+            slavery to keep their eyes open, and assist the process by all the means in
+            their power. The resolution proceeds: 'This meeting would earnestly
+            recommend, in all cases where it is practicable, that a decided preference
+            should be given to the products of free labor by all who enter their protest
+            against slavery, so that at least they themselves may be clear of any
+            participation in the guilt of the system, and be thus morally strengthened in
+            their condemnation of it.' To that there can be no objection; but still the
+            state of society is such that we cannot at once dispense with all the
+            products of slave labor. We may, however, be doing what we
+            can&mdash;examining the ways and methods by which this end may be brought
+            about; and, at all events, we need not be deterred from self-denial, nor
+            shrink before minor obstacles. If with foresight we participate in the
+            encouragement of slave labor, we must hold ourselves guilty, in no
+            unimportant sense, of sustaining the system of slavery. I will illustrate my
+            argument by a very simple method. Suppose two ships arrive laden with silks
+            of the same quality, but one a pirate ship, in which the goods have been
+            obtained by robbery, and the other by honest trade. The pirate sells his
+            silks twenty per cent. cheaper than the honest trader: you go to him, and
+            declaim against his dishonesty; but because you can get silks cheaper of him,
+            you buy of him. Would he think you sincere in your denunciations of his
+            plundering his fellow-creatures, or would you exert any influence on him to
+            make him abandon his dishonest practices? I can, however, put another case in
+            which this inconsistency might, perhaps, be unavoidable. Suppose we were in
+            famine or great necessity, and we wished to obtain provisions for our
+            suffering families: suppose, too, there was a certain man with provisions,
+            who, we knew, had come by them dishonestly, but we had no other resource than
+            to purchase of him. In that case we should be justified in purchasing of him,
+            and should not participate in the guilt of the robbery. But still, however
+            great our necessity, we are not justified in refusing to examine the subject,
+            and in discouraging those who are endeavoring to set the thing on the right
+            ground. That is all I wish, and all the resolution contemplates; and,
+            happily, I find that that also is what was implied in the address. I may
+            mention one other method alluded to in the address, and that is prayer to
+            Almighty God. This ought to be, and must be, a religious enterprise. It is
+            impossible for any man to contemplate slavery as it is without feeling
+            intense indignation; and unless he have his heart near to God, and unless he
+            be a man of prayer and devotional spirit, bad passions will arise, and to a
+            very great extent neutralize his efforts to do good. How do you suppose such
+            a religious feeling has been preserved in the book to which the address
+            refers? Because it was written amid prayer from the beginning; and it is only
+            by a constant exercise of the religious spirit that the good it had effected
+            has been accomplished in the way it has. There is one more subject to which I
+            would allude, and that is unity among those who desire to emancipate the
+            slave. I mean a good understanding and unity of feeling among the opponents
+            of slavery. What gives slavery its great strength in the United States? There
+            are only about three hundred thousand slaveholders in the United States out
+            of the whole twenty-five millions of its population, and yet they hold the
+            entire power over the nation. That is owing to their unbroken unity on that
+            one matter, however much, and however fiercely, they may contend among
+            themselves on others. As soon as the subject of slavery comes up, they are of
+            one heart, of one voice, and of one mind, while their opponents unhappily
+            differ, and assail each other when they ought to be assailing the great enemy
+            alone. Why can they not work together, so far as they are agreed, and let
+            those points on which they disagree be waived for the time? In the midst of
+            the battle let them sink their differences, and settle them after the victory
+            is won. I was happy to find at the great meeting of the Peace Society that
+            that course has been adopted. They are not all of one mind on the details of
+            the question, but they are of one mind on the great principle of diffusing
+            peace doctrines among the great nations of Europe. I therefore say, let all
+            the friends of the slave work together until the great work of his
+            emancipation is accomplished, and then they will have time to discuss their
+            differences, though I believe by that time they will all think alike. I thank
+            you sincerely for the kindness you have expressed towards my country, and for
+            the philanthropy you have manifested, and I hope all has been done in such a
+            Christian spirit that every Christian feeling on the other side of the
+            Atlantic will be compelled to respond to it."</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="div">
+            <a id="toc_17" name="toc_17"></a> 
+            <h3 class="dgp">Concluding Note.</h3>
+            <p class="noindent">Since the preceding addresses were delivered, the aspect
+            of things among us has been greatly changed. It is just as was predicted by
+            the sagacious Lord Cockburn, at the meeting in Edinburgh, (see page xxvi.)
+            The spirit of slavery, stimulated to madness by the indignation of the
+            civilized world, in its frenzy bids defiance to God and man, and is
+            determined to make itself respected by enlisting into its service the entire
+            wealth, and power, and political influence of this great nation. Its
+            encroachments are becoming so enormous, and its progress so rapid, that it is
+            now a conflict for the freedom of the citizens rather than for the
+            emancipation of the slaves. The reckless faithlessness and impudent falsehood
+            of our national proslavery legislation, the present season, has scarcely a
+            parallel in history, black as history is with all kinds of perfidy. If the
+            men who mean to be free do not now arise in their strength and shake off the
+            incubus which is strangling and crushing them, they deserve to be slaves, and
+            they will be.</p>
+            <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right">C.E.S.</p>
+          </div>
+        </div>
+      </div>
+      <div class="body">
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <h2 class="dgp">Sunny Memories of Foreign Lands</h2>
+        </div>
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_18" name="toc_18"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter I</h2>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image1.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">Liverpool</span>, April 11, 1853.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          Children</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">You wish, first of all, to hear of the voyage. Let me assure
+          you, my dears, in the very commencement of the matter, that going to sea is not
+          at all the thing that we have taken it to be.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">You know how often we have longed for a sea voyage, as the
+          fulfilment of all our dreams of poetry and romance, the realization of our
+          highest conceptions of free, joyous existence.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">You remember our ship-launching parties in Maine, when we used
+          to ride to the seaside through dark pine forests, lighted up with the gold,
+          scarlet, and orange tints of autumn. What exhilaration there was, as those
+          beautiful inland bays, one by one, unrolled like silver ribbons before us! and
+          how all our sympathies went forth with the grand new ship about to be launched!
+          How graceful and noble a thing she looked, as she sprang from the shore to the
+          blue waters, like a human soul springing from life into immortality! How all
+          our feelings went with her! how we longed to be with her, and a part of
+          her&mdash;to go with her to India, China, or any where, so that we might rise
+          and fall on the bosom of that magnificent ocean, and share a part of that
+          glorified existence! That ocean! that blue, sparkling, heaving, mysterious
+          ocean, with all the signs and wonders of heaven emblazoned on its bosom, and
+          another world of mystery hidden beneath its waters! Who would not long to enjoy
+          a freer communion, and rejoice in a prospect of days spent in unreserved
+          fellowship with its grand and noble nature?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Alas! what a contrast between all this poetry and the real prose
+          fact of going to sea! No man, the proverb says, is a hero to his valet de
+          chambre. Certainly, no poet, no hero, no inspired prophet, ever lost so much on
+          near acquaintance as this same mystic, grandiloquent old Ocean. The one step
+          from the sublime to the ridiculous is never taken with such alacrity as in a
+          sea voyage.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the first place, it is a melancholy fact, but not the less
+          true, that ship life is not at all fragrant; in short, particularly on a
+          steamer, there is a most mournful combination of grease, steam, onions, and
+          dinners in general, either past, present, or to come, which, floating invisibly
+          in the atmosphere, strongly predisposes to that disgust of existence, which, in
+          half an hour after sailing, begins to come upon you; that disgust, that
+          strange, mysterious, ineffable sensation which steals slowly and inexplicably
+          upon you; which makes every heaving billow, every white-capped wave, the ship,
+          the people, the sight, taste, sound, and smell of every thing a matter of
+          inexpressible loathing! Man cannot utter it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is really amusing to watch the gradual progress of this
+          epidemic; to see people stepping on board in the highest possible feather,
+          alert, airy, nimble, parading the deck, chatty and conversable, on the best
+          possible terms with themselves and mankind generally; the treacherous ship,
+          meanwhile, undulating and heaving in the most graceful rises and pauses
+          imaginable, like some voluptuous waltzer; and then to see one after another
+          yielding to the mysterious spell!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Your poet launches forth, "full of sentiment sublime as
+          billows," discoursing magnificently on the color of the waves and the glory of
+          the clouds; but gradually he grows white about the mouth, gives sidelong looks
+          towards the stairway; at last, with one desperate plunge, he sets, to rise no
+          more!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here sits a stout gentleman, who looks as resolute as an oak
+          log. "These things are much the effect of imagination," he tells you; "a little
+          self-control and resolution," &amp;c. Ah me! it is delightful, when these
+          people, who are always talking about resolution, get caught on shipboard. As
+          the backwoodsman said to the Mississippi River, about the steamboat, they "get
+          their match." Our stout gentleman sits a quarter of an hour, upright as a palm
+          tree, his back squared against the rails, pretending to be reading a paper; but
+          a dismal look of disgust is settling down about his lips; the old sea and his
+          will are evidently having a pitched battle. Ah, ha! there he goes for the
+          stairway; says he has left a book in the cabin, but shoots by with a most
+          suspicious velocity. You may fancy his finale.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then, of course, there are young ladies,&mdash;charming
+          creatures,&mdash;who, in about ten minutes, are going to die, and are sure they
+          shall die, and don't care if they do; whom anxious papas, or brothers, or
+          lovers consign with all speed to those dismal lower regions, where the brisk
+          chambermaid, who has been expecting them, seems to think their agonies and
+          groans a regular part of the play.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I had come on board thinking, in my simplicity, of a fortnight
+          to be spent something like the fortnight on a trip to New Orleans, on one of
+          our floating river palaces; that we should sit in our state rooms, read, sew,
+          sketch, and chat; and accordingly I laid in a magnificent provision in the way
+          of literature and divers matters of fancy work, with which to while away the
+          time. Some last, airy touches, in the way of making up bows, disposing ribbons,
+          and binding collarets, had been left to these long, leisure hours, as matters
+          of amusement.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Let me warn you, if you ever go to sea, you may as well omit all
+          such preparations. Don't leave so much as the unlocking of a trunk to be done
+          after sailing. In the few precious minutes when the ship stands still, before
+          she weighs her anchor, set your house, that is to say, your state room, as much
+          in order as if you were going to be hanged; place every thing in the most
+          convenient position to be seized without trouble at a moment's notice; for be
+          sure that in half an hour after sailing an infinite desperation will seize you,
+          in which the grasshopper will be a burden. If any thing is in your trunk, it
+          might almost as well be in the sea, for any practical probability of your
+          getting to it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Moreover, let your toilet be eminently simple, for you will find
+          the time coming when to button a cuff or arrange a ruff will be a matter of
+          absolute despair. You lie disconsolate in your berth, only desiring to be let
+          alone to die; and then, if you are told, as you always are, that "you mustn't
+          give way," that "you must rouse yourself" and come on deck, you will appreciate
+          the value of simple attire. With every thing in your berth dizzily swinging
+          backwards and forwards, your bonnet, your cloak, your tippet, your gloves, all
+          present so many discouraging impossibilities; knotted strings cannot be untied,
+          and modes of fastening which seemed curious and convenient, when you had
+          nothing else to do but fasten them, now look disgustingly impracticable.
+          Nevertheless, your fate for the whole voyage depends upon your rousing yourself
+          to get upon deck at first; to give up, then, is to be condemned to the Avernus,
+          the Hades of the lower regions, for the rest of the voyage.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Ah, <em>those</em> lower regions!&mdash;the saloons&mdash;every
+          couch and corner filled with prostrate, despairing forms, with pale cheeks,
+          long, willowy hair and sunken eyes, groaning, sighing, and apostrophizing the
+          Fates, and solemnly vowing between every lurch of the ship, that "you'll never
+          catch them going to sea again, that's what you won't;" and then the bulletins
+          from all the state rooms&mdash;"Mrs. A. is sick, and Miss B. sicker, and Miss
+          C. almost dead, and Mrs. E., F., and G. declare that they shall give up." This
+          threat of "giving up" is a standing resort of ladies in distressed
+          circumstances; it is always very impressively pronounced, as if the result of
+          earnest purpose; but how it is to be carried out practically, how ladies
+          <em>do</em> give up, and what general impression is made on creation when they
+          do, has never yet appeared. Certainly the sea seems to care very little about
+          the threat, for he goes on lurching all hands about just as freely afterwards
+          as before.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There are always some three or four in a hundred who escape all
+          these evils. They are not sick, and they seem to be having a good time
+          generally, and always meet you with "What a charming run we are having! Isn't
+          it delightful?" and so on. If you have a turn for being disinterested, you can
+          console your miseries by a view of their joyousness. Three or four of our
+          ladies were of this happy order, and it was really refreshing to see them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">For my part, I was less fortunate. I could not and would not
+          give up and become one of the ghosts below, and so I managed, by keeping on
+          deck and trying to act as if nothing was the matter, to lead a very uncertain
+          and precarious existence, though with a most awful undertone of emotion, which
+          seemed to make quite another thing of creation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I wonder that people who wanted to break the souls of heroes and
+          martyrs never thought of sending them to sea and keeping them a little seasick.
+          The dungeons of Olmutz, the leads of Venice, in short, all the naughty, wicked
+          places that tyrants ever invented for bringing down the spirits of heroes, are
+          nothing to the berth of a ship. Get Lafayette, Kossuth, or the noblest of
+          woman, born, prostrate in a swinging, dizzy berth of one of these sea coops,
+          called state rooms, and I'll warrant almost any compromise might be got out of
+          them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Where in the world the soul goes to under such influences nobody
+          knows; one would really think the sea tipped it all out of a man, just as it
+          does the water out of his wash basin. The soul seems to be like one of the
+          genii enclosed in a vase, in the Arabian Nights; now, it rises like a pillar of
+          cloud, and floats over land and sea, buoyant, many-hued, and glorious; again,
+          it goes down, down, subsiding into its copper vase, and the cover is clapped
+          on, and there you are. A sea voyage is the best device for getting the soul
+          back into its vase that I know of.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">But at night!&mdash;the beauties of a night on
+          shipboard!&mdash;down in your berth, with the sea hissing and fizzing, gurgling
+          and booming, within an inch of your ear; and then the steward conies along at
+          twelve o'clock and puts out your light, and there you are! Jonah in the whale
+          was not darker or more dismal. There, in profound ignorance and blindness, you
+          lie, and feel yourself rolled upwards, and downwards, and sidewise, and all
+          ways, like a cork in a tub of water; much such a sensation as one might suppose
+          it to be, were one headed up in a barrel and thrown into the sea.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Occasionally a wave comes with a thump against your ear, as if a
+          great hammer were knocking on your barrel, to see that all within was safe and
+          sound. Then you begin to think of krakens, and sharks, and porpoises, and sea
+          serpents, and all the monstrous, slimy, cold, hobgoblin brood, who, perhaps,
+          are your next door neighbors; and the old blue-haired Ocean whispers through
+          the planks, "Here you are; I've got you. Your grand ship is my plaything. I can
+          do what I like with it."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then you hear every kind of odd noise in the
+          ship&mdash;creaking, straining, crunching, scraping, pounding, whistling,
+          blowing off steam, each of which to your unpractised ear is significant of some
+          impending catastrophe; you lie wide awake, listening with all your might, as if
+          your watching did any good, till at last sleep overcomes you, and the morning
+          light convinces you that nothing very particular has been the matter, and that
+          all these frightful noises are only the necessary attendants of what is called
+          a good run.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our voyage out was called "a good run." It was voted,
+          unanimously, to be "an extraordinarily good passage," "a pleasant voyage;" yet
+          the ship rocked the whole time from side to side with a steady, dizzy,
+          continuous motion, like a great cradle. I had a new sympathy for babies, poor
+          little things, who are rocked hours at a time without so much as a "by your
+          leave" in the case. No wonder there are so many stupid people in the world.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is no place where killing time is so much of a systematic
+          and avowed object as in one of these short runs. In a six months' voyage people
+          give up to their situation, and make arrangements to live a regular life; but
+          the ten days that now divide England and America are not long enough for any
+          thing. The great question is how to get them off; they are set up, like
+          tenpins, to be bowled at; and happy he whose ball prospers. People with strong
+          heads, who can stand the incessant swing of the boat, may read or write. Then
+          there is one's berth, a never-failing resort, where one may analyze at one's
+          leisure the life and emotions of an oyster in the mud. Walking the deck is a
+          means of getting off some half hours more. If a ship heaves in sight, or a
+          porpoise tumbles up, or, better still, a whale spouts, it makes an immense
+          sensation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our favorite resort is by the old red smoke pipe of the steamer,
+          which rises warm and luminous as a sort of tower of defence. The wind must blow
+          an uncommon variety of ways at once when you cannot find a sheltered side, as
+          well as a place to warm your feet. In fact, the old smoke pipe is the domestic
+          hearth of the ship; there, with the double convenience of warmth and fresh air,
+          you can sit by the railing, and, looking down, command the prospect of the
+          cook's offices, the cow house, pantries, &amp;c.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our cook has specially interested me&mdash;a tall, slender,
+          melancholy man, with a watery-blue eye, a patient, dejected visage, like an
+          individual weary of the storms and commotions of life, and thoroughly impressed
+          with the vanity of human wishes. I sit there hour after hour watching him, and
+          it is evident that he performs all his duties in this frame of sad composure.
+          Now I see him resignedly stuffing a turkey, anon compounding a sauce, or
+          mournfully making little ripples in the crust of a tart; but all is done under
+          an evident sense that it is of no use trying.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Many complaints have been made of our coffee since we have been
+          on board, which, to say the truth, has been as unsettled as most of the social
+          questions of our day, and, perhaps, for that reason quite as generally
+          unpalatable; but since I have seen our cook, I am quite persuaded that the
+          coffee, like other works of great artists, has borrowed the hues of its maker's
+          mind. I think I hear him soliloquize over it&mdash;"To what purpose is
+          coffee?&mdash;of what avail tea?&mdash;thick or clear?&mdash;all is passing
+          away&mdash;a little egg, or fish skin, more or less, what are they?" and so we
+          get melancholy coffee and tea, owing to our philosophic cook.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After dinner I watch him as he washes dishes: he hangs up a
+          whole row of tin; the ship gives a lurch, and knocks them all down. He looks as
+          if it was just what he expected. "Such is life!" he says, as he pursues a
+          frisky tin pan in one direction, and arrests the gambols of the ladle in
+          another; while the wicked sea, meanwhile, with another lurch, is upsetting all
+          his dishwater. I can see how these daily trials, this performing of most
+          delicate and complicated gastronomic operations in the midst of such unsteady,
+          unsettled circumstances, have gradually given this poor soul a despair of
+          living, and brought him into this state of philosophic melancholy. Just as
+          Xantippe made a sage of Socrates, this whisky, frisky, stormy ship life has
+          made a sage of our cook. Meanwhile, not to do him injustice, let it be
+          recorded, that in all dishes which require grave conviction and steady
+          perseverance, rather than hope and inspiration, he is eminently successful. Our
+          table excels in viands of a reflective and solemn character; mighty rounds of
+          beef, vast saddles of mutton, and the whole tribe of meats in general, come on
+          in a superior style. English plum pudding, a weighty and serious performance,
+          is exhibited in first-rate order. The jellies want lightness,&mdash;but that is
+          to be expected.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I admire the thorough order and system with which every thing is
+          done on these ships. One day, when the servants came round, as they do at a
+          certain time after dinner, and screwed up the shelf of decanters and bottles
+          out of our reach, a German gentleman remarked, "Ah, that's always the way on
+          English ships; every thing done at such a time, without saying 'by your leave,'
+          If it had been on an American ship now, he would have said, 'Gentlemen, are you
+          ready to have this shelf raised?'"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">No doubt this remark is true and extends to a good many other
+          things; but in a ship in the middle of the ocean, when the least confusion or
+          irregularity in certain cases might be destruction to all on board, it does
+          inspire confidence to see that there is even in the minutest things a strong
+          and steady system, that goes on without saying "by your leave." Even the
+          rigidness with which lights are all extinguished at twelve o'clock, though it
+          is very hard in some cases, still gives you confidence in the watchfulness and
+          care with which all on board is conducted.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On Sunday there was a service. We went into the cabin, and saw
+          prayer books arranged at regular intervals, and soon a procession of the
+          sailors neatly dressed filed in and took their places, together with such
+          passengers as felt disposed, and the order of morning prayer was read. The
+          sailors all looked serious and attentive. I could not but think that this
+          feature of the management of her majesty's ships was a good one, and worthy of
+          imitation. To be sure, one can say it is only a form. Granted; but is not a
+          serious, respectful <em>form</em> of religion better than nothing? Besides, I
+          am not willing to think that these intelligent-looking sailors could listen to
+          all those devout sentiments expressed in the prayers, and the holy truths
+          embodied in the passages of Scripture, and not gain something from it. It is
+          bad to have only <em>the form</em> of religion, but not so bad as to have
+          neither the form nor the fact.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When the ship has been out about eight days, an evident
+          bettering of spirits and condition obtains among the passengers. Many of the
+          sick ones take heart, and appear again among the walks and ways of men; the
+          ladies assemble in little knots, and talk of getting on shore. The more knowing
+          ones, who have travelled before, embrace this opportunity to show their
+          knowledge of life by telling the new hands all sorts of hobgoblin stories about
+          the custom house officers and the difficulties of getting landed in England. It
+          is a curious fact, that old travellers generally seem to take this particular
+          delight in striking consternation into younger ones.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"You'll have all your daguerreotypes taken away," says one lady,
+          who, in right of having crossed the ocean nine times, is entitled to speak
+          <em>ex cathedra</em> on the subject.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"All our daguerreotypes!" shriek four or five at once. "Pray
+          tell, what for?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"They <em>will</em> do it," says the knowing lady, with an awful
+          nod; "unless you hide them, and all your books, they'll burn up&mdash;"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Burn our books!" exclaim the circle. "O, dreadful! What do they
+          do that for?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"They're very particular always to burn up all your books. I
+          knew a lady who had a dozen burned," says the wise one.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Dear me! will they take our <em>dresses</em>?" says a young
+          lady, with increasing alarm.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"No, but they'll pull every thing out, and tumble them well
+          over, I can tell you."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"How horrid!"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">An old lady, who has been very sick all the way, is revived by
+          this appalling intelligence.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I hope they won't tumble over my <em>caps!</em>" she
+          exclaims.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Yes, they will have every thing out on deck," says the lady,
+          delighted with the increasing sensation. "I tell you you don't know these
+          custom house officers."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"It's too bad!" "It's dreadful!" "How horrid!" exclaim all.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I shall put my best things in my pocket," exclaims one. "They
+          don't search our pockets, do they?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Well, no, not here; but I tell you they'll search your
+          <em>pockets</em> at Antwerp and Brussels," says the lady.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Somebody catches the sound, and flies off into the state rooms
+          with the intelligence that "the custom house officers are so
+          dreadful&mdash;they rip open your trunks, pull out all your things, burn your
+          books, take away your daguerreotypes, and even search your pockets;" and a row
+          of groans is heard ascending from the row of state rooms, as all begin to
+          revolve what they have in their trunks, and what they are to do in this
+          emergency.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Pray tell me," said I to a gentlemanly man, who had crossed
+          four or five times, "is there really so much annoyance at the custom
+          house?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Annoyance, ma'am? No, not the slightest."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"But do they really turn out the contents of the trunks, and
+          take away people's daguerreotypes, and burn their books?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Nothing of the kind, ma'am. I apprehend no difficulty. I never
+          had any. There are a few articles on which duty is charged. I have a case of
+          cigars, for instance; I shall show them to the custom house officer, and pay
+          the duty. If a person seems disposed to be fair, there is no difficulty. The
+          examination of ladies' trunks is merely nominal; nothing is deranged."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">So it proved. We arrived on Sunday morning; the custom house
+          officers, very gentlemanly men, came on board; our luggage was all set out, and
+          passed through a rapid examination, which in many cases amounted only to
+          opening the trunk and shutting it, and all was over. The whole ceremony did not
+          occupy two hours.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">So ends this letter. You shall hear further how we landed at
+          some future time.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_19" name="toc_19"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter II</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear
+          Father</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was on Sunday morning that we first came in sight of land.
+          The day was one of a thousand&mdash;clear, calm, and bright. It is one of those
+          strange, throbbing feelings, that come only once in a while in life; this
+          waking up to find an ocean crossed and long-lost land restored again in another
+          hemisphere; something like what we should suppose might be the thrill of
+          awakening from life to immortality, and all the wonders of the world unknown.
+          That low, green line of land in the horizon is Ireland; and we, with water
+          smooth as a lake and sails furled, are running within a mile of the shore.
+          Every body on deck, full of spirits and expectation, busy as can be looking
+          through spyglasses, and exclaiming at every object on shore,&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Look! there's Skibareen, where the worst of the famine was,"
+          says one.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Look! that's a ruined Martello tower," says another.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We new voyagers, who had never seen any ruin more imposing than
+          that of a cow house, and, of course, were ravenous for old towers, were now
+          quite wide awake, but were disappointed to learn that these were only custom
+          house rendezvous. Here is the county of Cork. Some one calls out,&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"There is O'Connell's house;" and a warm dispute ensues whether
+          a large mansion, with a stone chapel by it, answers to that name. At all events
+          the region looks desolate enough, and they say the natives of it are almost
+          savages. A passenger remarks, that "O'Connell never really did any thing for
+          the Irish, but lived on his capacity for exciting their enthusiasm." Thereupon
+          another expresses great contempt for the Irish who could be so taken in.
+          Nevertheless, the capability of a disinterested enthusiasm is, on the whole, a
+          nobler property of a human being than a shrewd self-interest. I like the Irish
+          all the better for it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now we pass Kinsale lighthouse; there is the spot where the
+          Albion was wrecked. It is a bare, frowning cliff, with walls of rock rising
+          perpendicularly out of the sea. Now, to be sure, the sea smiles and sparkles
+          around the base of it, as gently as if it never could storm; yet under other
+          skies, and with a fierce south-east wind, how the waves would pour in here! Woe
+          then to the distressed and rudderless vessel that drifts towards those fatal
+          rocks! This gives the outmost and boldest view of the point.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image2.png"
+          alt="View East of Kinsale." /></p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center">View East of Kinsale.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Albion struck just round the left of the point, where the
+          rock rises perpendicularly out of the sea. I well remember, when a child, of
+          the newspapers being filled with the dreadful story of the wreck of the ship
+          Albion&mdash;how for hours, rudderless and helpless, they saw themselves
+          driving with inevitable certainty against these pitiless rocks; and how, in the
+          last struggle, one human being after another was dashed against them in
+          helpless agony.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">What an infinite deal of misery results from man's helplessness
+          and ignorance and nature's inflexibility in this one matter of crossing the
+          ocean! What agonies of prayer there were during all the long hours that this
+          ship was driving straight on to these fatal rocks, all to no purpose! It struck
+          and crushed just the same. Surely, without the revelation of God in Jesus, who
+          could believe in the divine goodness? I do not wonder the old Greeks so often
+          spoke of their gods as cruel, and believed the universe was governed by a
+          remorseless and inexorable fate. Who would come to any other conclusion, except
+          from the pages of the Bible?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">But we have sailed far past Kinsale point. Now blue and shadowy
+          loom up the distant form of the Youghal Mountains, (pronounced <em>Yoole</em>.)
+          The surface of the water is alive with fishing boats, spreading their white
+          wings and skimming about like so many moth millers.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">About nine o'clock we were crossing the sand bar, which lies at
+          the mouth of the Mersey River, running up towards Liverpool. Our signal
+          pennants are fluttering at the mast head, pilot full of energy on one wheel
+          house, and a man casting the lead on the other.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"By the mark, five," says the man. The pilot, with all his
+          energy, is telegraphing to the steersman. This is a very close and complicated
+          piece of navigation, I should think, this running up the Mersey, for every
+          moment we are passing some kind of a signal token, which warns off from some
+          shoal. Here is a bell buoy, where the waves keep the bell always tolling; here,
+          a buoyant lighthouse; and "See there, those shoals, how pokerish they look!"
+          says one of the passengers, pointing to the foam on our starboard bow. All is
+          bustle, animation, exultation. Now float out the American stars and stripes on
+          our bow.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before us lies the great city of Liverpool. No old Cathedral, no
+          castles, a real New Yorkish place.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"There, that's the fort," cries one. Bang, bang, go the two guns
+          from our forward gangway.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I wonder if they will fire from the fort," says another.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"How green that grass looks!" says a third; "and what pretty
+          cottages!"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"All modern, though," says somebody, in tones of disappointment.
+          Now we are passing the Victoria Dock. Bang, bang, again. We are in a forest of
+          ships of all nations; their masts bristling like the tall pines in Maine; their
+          many colored flags streaming like the forest leaves in autumn.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Hark," says one; "there's, a chime of bells from the city; how
+          sweet! I had quite forgotten it was Sunday."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here we cast anchor, and the small steam tender conies puffing
+          alongside. Now for the custom house officers. State rooms, holds, and cabins
+          must all give up their trunks; a general muster among the baggage, and
+          passenger after passenger comes forward as their names are called, much as
+          follows: "Snooks." "Here, sir." "Any thing contraband here, Mr. Snooks? Any
+          cigars, tobacco, &amp;c.?" "Nothing, sir."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A little unlocking, a little fumbling. "Shut up; all right;
+          ticket here." And a little man pastes on each article a slip of paper, with the
+          royal arms of England and the magical letters V.R., to remind all men that they
+          have come into a country where a lady reigns, and of course must behave
+          themselves as prettily as they can.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were inquiring of some friends for the most convenient hotel,
+          when we found the son of Mr. Cropper, of Dingle Bank, waiting in the cabin, to
+          take us with him to their hospitable abode. In a few moments after the baggage
+          had been examined, we all bade adieu to the old ship, and went on board the
+          little steam tender, which carries passengers up to the city.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This Mersey River would be a very beautiful one, if it were not
+          so dingy and muddy. As we are sailing up in the tender towards Liverpool, I
+          deplore the circumstance feelingly. "What does make this river so muddy?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"O," says a bystander, "don't you know that</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">'The quality of mercy is not strained'?"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">And now we are fairly alongside the shore, and we are soon
+          going to set our foot on the land of Old England.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Say what we will, an American, particularly a New Englander, can
+          never approach the old country without a kind of thrill and pulsation of
+          kindred. Its history for two centuries was our history. Its literature, laws,
+          and language are our literature, laws, and language. Spenser, Shakspeare,
+          Bacon, Milton, were a glorious inheritance, which we share in common. Our very
+          life-blood is English life-blood. It is Anglo-Saxon vigor that is spreading our
+          country from Atlantic to Pacific, and leading on a new era in the world's
+          development. America is a tall, sightly young shoot, that has grown from the
+          old royal oak of England; divided from its parent root, it has shot up in new,
+          rich soil, and under genial, brilliant skies, and therefore takes on a new type
+          of growth and foliage, but the sap in it is the same.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I had an early opportunity of making acquaintance with my
+          English brethren; for, much to my astonishment, I found quite a crowd on the
+          wharf, and we walked up to our carriage through a long lane of people, bowing,
+          and looking very glad to see us. When I came to get into the hack it was
+          surrounded by more faces than I could count. They stood very quietly, and
+          looked very kindly, though evidently very much determined to look. Something
+          prevented the hack from moving on; so the interview was prolonged for some
+          time. I therefore took occasion to remark the very fair, pure complexions, the
+          clear eyes, and the general air of health and vigor, which seem to characterize
+          our brethren and sisters of the island. There seemed to be no occasion to ask
+          them, how they did, as they were evidently quite well. Indeed, this air of
+          health is one of the most striking things when one lands in England.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">They were not burly, red-faced, and stout, as I had sometimes
+          conceived of the English people, but just full enough to suggest the idea of
+          vigor and health. The presence of so many healthy, rosy people looking at me,
+          all reduced as I was, first by land and then by sea sickness, made me feel
+          myself more withered and forlorn than ever. But there was an earnestness and a
+          depth of kind feeling in some of the faces, which I shall long remember. It
+          seemed as if I had not only touched the English shore, but felt the English
+          heart.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our carriage at last drove on, taking us through Liverpool, and
+          a mile or two out, and at length wound its way along the gravel paths of a
+          beautiful little retreat, on the banks of the Mersey, called the "Dingle." It
+          opened to my eyes like a paradise, all wearied as I was with the tossing of the
+          sea. I have since become familiar with these beautiful little spots, which are
+          so common in England; but now all was entirely new to me.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We rode by shining clumps of the Portugal laurel, a beautiful
+          evergreen, much resembling our mountain rhododendron; then there was the
+          prickly, polished, dark-green holly, which I had never seen before, but which
+          is, certainly, one of the most perfect of shrubs. The turf was of that soft,
+          dazzling green, and had that peculiar velvet-like smoothness, which seem
+          characteristic of England. We stopped at last before the door of a cottage,
+          whose porch was overgrown with ivy. From that moment I ceased to feel myself a
+          stranger in England. I cannot tell you how delightful to me, dizzy and weary as
+          I was, was the first sight of the chamber of reception which had been prepared
+          for us. No item of cozy comfort that one could desire was omitted. The sofa and
+          easy chair wheeled up before a cheerful coal fire, a bright little teakettle
+          steaming in front of the grate, a table with a beautiful vase of flowers,
+          books, and writing apparatus, and kind friends with words full of affectionate
+          cheer,&mdash;all these made me feel at home in a moment.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The hospitality of England has become famous in the world, and,
+          I think, with reason. I doubt not there is just as much hospitable feeling in
+          other countries; but in England the matter of coziness and home comfort has
+          been so studied, and matured, and reduced to system, that they really have it
+          in their power to effect more, towards making their guests comfortable, than
+          perhaps any other people.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After a short season allotted to changing our ship garments and
+          for rest, we found ourselves seated at the dinner table. While dining, the
+          sister-in-law of our friends came in from the next door, to exchange a word or
+          two of welcome, and invite us to breakfast with them the following morning.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Between all the excitements of landing, and meeting so many new
+          faces, and the remains of the dizzy motion of the ship, which still haunted me,
+          I found it impossible to close my eyes to sleep that first night till the dim
+          gray of dawn. I got up as soon as it was light, and looked out of the window;
+          and as my eyes fell on the luxuriant, ivy-covered porch, the clumps of shining,
+          dark-green holly bushes, I said to myself, "Ah, really, this is England!"</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image3.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">I never saw any plant that struck me as more beautiful than this
+          holly. It is a dense shrub growing from six to eight feet high, with a thickly
+          varnished leaf of green. The outline of the leaf is something like this. I do
+          not believe it can ever come to a state of perfect development under the fierce
+          alternations of heat and cold which obtain in our New England climate, though
+          it grows in the Southern States. It is one of the symbolical shrubs of England,
+          probably because its bright green in winter makes it so splendid a Christmas
+          decoration. A little bird sat twittering on one of the sprays. He had a bright
+          red breast, and seemed evidently to consider himself of good blood and family,
+          with the best reason, as I afterwards learned, since he was no other than the
+          identical robin redbreast renowned in song and story; undoubtedly a lineal
+          descendant of that very cock robin whose death and burial form so vivid a
+          portion of our childish literature.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I must tell you, then, as one of the first remarks on matters
+          and things here in England, that "robin redbreast" is not at all the fellow we
+          in America take him to be. The character who flourishes under that name among
+          us is quite a different bird; he is twice as large, and has altogether a
+          different air, and as he sits up with military erectness on a rail fence or
+          stump, shows not even a family likeness to his diminutive English namesake.
+          Well, of course, robin over here will claim to have the real family estate and
+          title, since he lives in a country where such matters are understood and looked
+          into. Our robin is probably some fourth cousin, who, like others, has struck
+          out a new course for himself in America, and thrives upon it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We hurried to dress, remembering our engagements to breakfast
+          this morning with a brother of our host, whose cottage stands on the same
+          ground, within a few steps of our own. I had not the slightest idea of what the
+          English mean by a breakfast, and therefore went in all innocence, supposing
+          that I should see nobody but the family circle of my acquaintances. Quite to my
+          astonishment, I found a party of between thirty and forty people. Ladies
+          sitting with their bonnets on, as in a morning call. It was impossible,
+          however, to feel more than a momentary embarrassment in the friendly warmth and
+          cordiality of the circle by whom we were surrounded.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The English are called cold and stiff in their manners; I had
+          always heard they were so, but I certainly saw nothing of it here. A circle of
+          family relatives could not have received us with more warmth and kindness. The
+          remark which I made mentally, as my eye passed around the circle,
+          was&mdash;Why, these people are just like home; they look like us, and the tone
+          of sentiment and feeling is precisely such as I have been accustomed to; I mean
+          with the exception of the antislavery question.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">That question has, from the very first, been, in England, a
+          deeply religious movement. It was conceived and carried on by men of devotional
+          habits, in the same spirit in which the work of foreign missions was undertaken
+          in our own country; by just such earnest, self-denying, devout men as Samuel J.
+          Mills and Jeremiah Evarts.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was encountered by the same contempt and opposition, in the
+          outset, from men of merely worldly habits and principles; and to this day it
+          retains that hold on the devotional mind of the English nation that the foreign
+          mission cause does in America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Liverpool was at first to the antislavery cause nearly what New
+          York has been with us. Its commercial interests were largely implicated in the
+          slave trade, and the virulence of opposition towards the first movers of the
+          antislavery reform in Liverpool was about as great as it is now against
+          abolitionists in Charleston.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When Clarkson first came here to prosecute his inquiries into
+          the subject, a mob collected around him, and endeavored to throw him off the
+          dock into the water; he was rescued by a gentleman, some of whose descendants I
+          met on this occasion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The father of our host, Mr. Cropper, was one of the first and
+          most efficient supporters of the cause in Liverpool; and the whole circle was
+          composed of those who had taken a deep interest in that struggle. The wife of
+          our host was the daughter of the celebrated Lord Chief Justice Denman, a man
+          who, for many years, stood unrivalled, at the head of the legal mind in
+          England, and who, with a generous ardor seldom equalled, devoted all his
+          energies to this sacred cause.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When the publication of Uncle Tom's Cabin turned the attention
+          of the British public to the existing horrors of slavery in America, some
+          palliations of the system appeared in English papers. Lord Denman, though then
+          in delicate health and advanced years, wrote a series of letters upon the
+          subject&mdash;an exertion which entirely prostrated his before feeble health.
+          In one of the addresses made at table, a very feeling allusion was made to Lord
+          Denman's labors, and also to those of the honored father of the two Messrs.
+          Cropper.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As breakfast parties are things which we do not have in America,
+          perhaps mother would like to know just how they are managed. The hour is
+          generally somewhere between nine and twelve, and the whole idea and spirit of
+          the thing is that of an informal and social gathering. Ladies keep their
+          bonnets on, and are not dressed in full toilet. On this occasion we sat and
+          chatted together socially till the whole party was assembled in the drawing
+          room, and then breakfast was announced. Each gentleman had a lady assigned him,
+          and we walked into the dining room, where stood the tables tastefully adorned
+          with flowers, and spread with an abundant cold collation, while tea and coffee
+          were passed round by servants. In each plate was a card, containing the name of
+          the person for whom it was designed. I took my place by the side of the Rev.
+          Dr. McNiel, one of the most celebrated clergymen of the established church in
+          Liverpool.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The conversation was flowing, free, and friendly. The old
+          reminiscences of the antislavery conflict in England were touchingly recalled,
+          and the warmest sympathy was expressed for those in America who are carrying on
+          the same cause.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In one thing I was most agreeably disappointed. I had been told
+          that the Christians of England were intolerant and unreasonable in their
+          opinions on this subject; that they could not be made to understand the
+          peculiar difficulties which beset it in America, and that they therefore made
+          no distinction and no allowance in their censures. All this I found, so far as
+          this circle were concerned, to be strikingly untrue. They appeared to be
+          peculiarly affectionate in their feelings as regarded our country; to have the
+          highest appreciation of, and the deepest sympathy with, our religious
+          community, and to be extremely desirous to assist us in our difficulties. I
+          also found them remarkably well informed upon the subject. They keep their eyes
+          upon our papers, our public documents and speeches in Congress, and are as well
+          advised in regard to the progress of the moral conflict as our Foreign
+          Missionary Society is with the state of affairs in Hindostan and Burmah.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Several present spoke of the part which England originally had
+          in planting slavery in America, as placing English Christians under a solemn
+          responsibility to bring every possible moral influence to bear for its
+          extinction. Nevertheless, they seem to be the farthest possible from an unkind
+          or denunciatory spirit, even towards those most deeply implicated. The remarks
+          made by Dr. McNiel to me were a fair sample of the spirit and attitude of all
+          present.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I have been trying, Mrs. S.," he said, "to bring my mind into
+          the attitude of those Christians at the south who defend the institution of
+          slavery. There are <em>real</em> Christians there who do this&mdash;are there
+          not?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I replied, that undoubtedly there were some most amiable and
+          Christian people who defend slavery on principle, just as there had been some
+          to defend every form of despotism.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Do give me some idea of the views they take; it is something to
+          me so inconceivable. I am utterly at a loss how it can be made in any way
+          plausible."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I then stated that the most plausible view, and that which
+          seemed to have the most force with good men, was one which represented the
+          institution of slavery as a sort of wardship or guardian relation, by which an
+          inferior race were brought under the watch and care of a superior race to be
+          instructed in Christianity.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">He then inquired if there was any system of religious
+          instruction actually pursued.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In reply to this, I gave him some sketch of the operations for
+          the religious instruction of the negroes, which had been carried on by the
+          Presbyterian and other denominations. I remarked that many good people who do
+          not take very extended views, fixing their attention chiefly on the efforts
+          which they are making for the religious instruction of slaves, are blind to the
+          sin and injustice of allowing their legal position to remain what it is.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"But how do they shut their eyes to the various cruelties of the
+          system,&mdash;the separation of families&mdash;the domestic slave trade?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I replied, "In part, by not inquiring into them. The best kind
+          of people are, in general, those who <em>know</em> least of the cruelties of
+          the system; they never witness them. As in the city of London or Liverpool
+          there may be an amount of crime and suffering which many residents may live
+          years without seeing or knowing, so it is in the slave states."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Every person present appeared to be in that softened and
+          charitable frame of mind which disposed them to make every allowance for the
+          situation of Christians so peculiarly tempted, while, at the same time, there
+          was the most earnest concern, in view of the dishonor brought upon Christianity
+          by the defence of such a system.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One other thing I noticed, which was an agreeable disappointment
+          to me. I had been told that there was no social intercourse between the
+          established church and dissenters. In this party, however, were people of many
+          different denominations. Our host belongs to the established church; his
+          brother, with whom we are visiting, is a Baptist, and their father was a
+          Friend; and there appeared to be the utmost social cordiality. Whether I shall
+          find this uniformly the case will appear in time.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After the breakfast party was over, I found at the door an array
+          of children of the poor, belonging to a school kept under the superintendence
+          of Mrs. E. Cropper, and called, as is customary here, a ragged school. The
+          children, however, were any thing but ragged, being tidily dressed, remarkably
+          clean, with glowing cheeks and bright eyes. I must say, so far as I have seen
+          them, English children have a much healthier appearance than those of America.
+          By the side of their bright bloom ours look pale and faded.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Another school of the same kind is kept in this neighborhood,
+          under the auspices of Sir George Stephen, a conspicuous advocate of the
+          antislavery cause.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I thought the fair patroness of this school seemed not a little
+          delighted with the appearance of her prot&eacute;g&eacute;s, as they sung, with
+          great enthusiasm, Jane Taylor's hymn, commencing,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"I thank the goodness and the grace</p>
+            <p class="l">That on my birth have smiled,</p>
+            <p class="l">And made me in these Christian days</p>
+            <p class="l">A happy English child."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">All the little rogues were quite familiar with Topsy and
+          Eva, and <em>au fait</em> in the fortunes of Uncle Tom; so that, being
+          introduced as the maternal relative of these characters, I seemed to find favor
+          in their eyes. And when one of the speakers congratulated them that they were
+          born in a land where no child could be bought or sold, they responded with
+          enthusiastic cheers&mdash;cheers which made me feel rather sad; but still I
+          could not quarrel with English people for taking all the pride and all the
+          comfort which this inspiriting truth can convey.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">They had a hard enough struggle in rooting up the old weed of
+          slavery, to justify them in rejoicing in their freedom. Well, the day will come
+          in America, as I trust, when as much can be said for us.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After the children were gone came a succession of calls; some
+          from very aged people, the veterans of the old antislavery cause. I was
+          astonished and overwhelmed by the fervor of feeling some of them manifested;
+          there seemed to be something almost prophetic in the enthusiasm with which they
+          expressed their hope of our final success in America. This excitement, though
+          very pleasant, was wearisome, and I was glad of an opportunity after dinner to
+          rest myself, by rambling uninterrupted, with my friends, through the beautiful
+          grounds of the Dingle.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Two nice little boys were my squires on this occasion, one of
+          whom, a sturdy little fellow, on being asked his name, gave it to me in full as
+          Joseph Babington Macaulay, and I learned that his mother, by a former marriage,
+          had been the wife of Macaulay's brother. Uncle Tom Macaulay, I found, was a
+          favorite character with the young people. Master Harry conducted me through the
+          walks to the conservatories, all brilliant with azaleas and all sorts of
+          flowers, and then through a long walk on the banks of the Mersey.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here the wild flowers attracted my attention, as being so
+          different from those of our own country. Their daisy is not our flower, with
+          its wide, plaited ruff and yellow centre. The English daisy is</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The wee modest crimson-tipped flower,"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">which Burns celebrates. It is what we raise in greenhouses,
+          and call the mountain daisy. Its effect, growing profusely about fields and
+          grass plats, is very beautiful.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image4.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">We read much, among the poets, of the primrose,</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Earliest daughter of the Spring."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">This flower is one, also, which we cultivate in gardens to
+          some extent. The outline of it is as follows: The hue a delicate straw color;
+          it grows in tufts in shady places, and has a pure, serious look, which reminds
+          one of the line of Shakspeare&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Pale primroses, which die unmarried."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image5.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">It has also the faintest and most ethereal perfume,&mdash;a
+          perfume that seems to come and go in the air like music; and you perceive it at
+          a little distance from a tuft of them, when you would not if you gathered and
+          smelled them. On the whole, the primrose is a poet's and a painter's flower. An
+          artist's eye would notice an exquisite harmony between the yellow-green hue of
+          its leaves and the tint of its blossoms. I do not wonder that it has been so
+          great a favorite among the poets. It is just such a flower as Mozart and
+          Raphael would have loved.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image6.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then there is the bluebell, a bulb, which also grows in deep
+          shades. It is a little purple bell, with a narrow green leaf, like a ribbon. We
+          often read in English stories, of the gorse and furze; these are two names for
+          the same plant, a low bush, with strong, prickly leaves, growing much like a
+          juniper. The contrast of its very brilliant yellow, pea-shaped blossoms, with
+          the dark green of its leaves, is very beautiful. It grows here in hedges and on
+          commons, and is thought rather a plebeian affair. I think it would make quite
+          an addition to our garden shrubbery. Possibly it might make as much sensation
+          with us as our mullein does in foreign greenhouses.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After rambling a while, we came to a beautiful summer house,
+          placed in a retired spot, so as to command a view of the Mersey River. I think
+          they told me that it was Lord Denman's favorite seat. There we sat down, and in
+          common with the young gentlemen and ladies of the family, had quite a pleasant
+          talk together. Among other things we talked about the question which is now
+          agitating the public mind a good deal,&mdash;Whether it is expedient to open
+          the Crystal Palace to the people on Sunday. They said that this course was much
+          urged by some philanthropists, on the ground that it was the only day when the
+          working classes could find any leisure to visit it, and that it seemed hard to
+          shut them out entirely from all the opportunities and advantages which they
+          might thus derive; that to exclude the laborer from recreation on the Sabbath,
+          was the same as saying that he should never have any recreation. I asked, why
+          the philanthropists could not urge employers to give their workmen a part of
+          Saturday for this purpose; as it seemed to me unchristian to drive trade so
+          that the laboring man had no time but Sunday for intellectual and social
+          recreation. We rather came to the conclusion that this was the right course;
+          whether the people of England will, is quite another matter.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The grounds of the Dingle embrace three cottages; those of the
+          two Messrs. Cropper, and that of a son, who is married to a daughter of Dr.
+          Arnold. I rather think this way of relatives living together is more common
+          here in England than it is in America; and there is more idea of home
+          permanence connected with the family dwelling-place than with us, where the
+          country is so wide, and causes of change and removal so frequent. A man builds
+          a house in England with the expectation of living in it and leaving it to his
+          children; while we shed our houses in America as easily as a snail does his
+          shell. We live a while in Boston, and then a while in New York, and then,
+          perhaps, turn up at Cincinnati. Scarcely any body with us is living where they
+          expect to live and die. The man that dies in the house he was born in is a
+          wonder. There is something pleasant in the permanence and repose of the English
+          family estate, which we, in America, know very little of. All which is apropos
+          to our having finished our walk, and got back to the ivy-covered porch
+          again.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next day at breakfast, it was arranged that we should take a
+          drive out to Speke Hall, an old mansion, which is considered a fine specimen of
+          ancient house architecture. So the carriage was at the door. It was a cool,
+          breezy, April morning, but there was an abundance of wrappers and carriage
+          blankets provided to keep us comfortable. I must say, by the by, that English
+          housekeepers are bountiful in their provision for carriage comfort. Every
+          household has a store of warm, loose over garments, which are offered, if
+          needed, to the guests; and each carriage is provided with one or two blankets,
+          manufactured and sold expressly for this use, to envelope one's feet and limbs;
+          besides all which, should the weather be cold, comes out a long stone
+          reservoir, made flat on both sides, and filled with hot water, for foot stools.
+          This is an improvement on the primitive simplicity of hot bricks, and even on
+          the tin foot stove, which has nourished in New England.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Being thus provided with all things necessary for comfort, we
+          rattled merrily away, and I, remembering that I was in England, kept my eyes
+          wide open to see what I could see. The hedges of the fields were just budding,
+          and the green showed itself on them, like a thin gauze veil. These hedges are
+          not all so well kept and trimmed as I expected to find them. Some, it is true,
+          are cut very carefully; these are generally hedges to ornamental grounds; but
+          many of those which separate the fields straggle and sprawl, and have some high
+          bushes and some low ones, and, in short, are no more like a hedge than many
+          rows of bushes that we have at home. But such as they are, they are the only
+          dividing lines of the fields, and it is certainly a more picturesque mode of
+          division than our stone or worm fences. Outside of every hedge, towards the
+          street, there is generally a ditch, and at the bottom of the hedge is the
+          favorite nestling-place for all sorts of wild flowers. I remember reading in
+          stories about children trying to crawl through a gap in the hedge to get at
+          flowers, and tumbling into a ditch on the other side, and I now saw exactly how
+          they could do it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we drive we pass by many beautiful establishments, about of
+          the quality of our handsomest country houses, but whose grounds are kept with a
+          precision and exactness rarely to be seen among us. We cannot get the gardeners
+          who are qualified to do it; and if we could, the painstaking, slow way of
+          proceeding, and the habit of creeping thoroughness, which are necessary to
+          accomplish such results, die out in America. Nevertheless, such grounds are
+          exceedingly beautiful to look upon, and I was much obliged to the owners of
+          these places for keeping their gates hospitably open, as seems to be the custom
+          here.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After a drive of seven or eight miles, we alighted in front of
+          Speke Hall. This house is a specimen of the old fortified houses of England,
+          and was once fitted up with a moat and drawbridge, all in approved feudal
+          style. It was built somewhere about the year 1500. The sometime moat was now
+          full of smooth, green grass, and the drawbridge no longer remains.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This was the first really old thing that we had seen since our
+          arrival in England. We came up first to a low, arched, stone door, and knocked
+          with a great old-fashioned knocker; this brought no answer but a treble and
+          bass duet from a couple of dogs inside; so we opened the door, and saw a square
+          court, paved with round stones, and a dark, solitary yew tree in the centre.
+          Here in England, I think, they have vegetable creations made on purpose to go
+          with old, dusky buildings; and this yew tree is one of them. It has altogether
+          a most goblin-like, bewitched air, with its dusky black leaves and ragged
+          branches, throwing themselves straight out with odd twists and angular lines,
+          and might put one in mind of an old raven with some of his feathers pulled out,
+          or a black cat with her hair stroked the wrong way, or any other strange,
+          uncanny thing. Besides this they live almost forever; for when they have grown
+          so old that any respectable tree ought to be thinking of dying, they only take
+          another twist, and so live on another hundred years. I saw some in England
+          seven hundred years old, and they had grown queerer every century. It is a
+          species of evergreen, and its leaf resembles our hemlock, only it is longer.
+          This sprig gives you some idea of its general form. It is always planted about
+          churches and graveyards; a kind of dismal emblem of immortality. This
+          sepulchral old tree and the bass and treble dogs were the only occupants of the
+          court. One of these, a great surly mastiff, barked out of his kennel on one
+          side, and the other, a little wiry terrier, out of his on the opposite side,
+          and both strained on their chains, as if they would enjoy making even more
+          decided demonstrations if they could.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image7.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">There was an aged, mossy fountain for holy water by the side of
+          the wall, in which some weeds were growing. A door in the house was soon opened
+          by a decent-looking serving woman, to whom we communicated our desire to see
+          the hall.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were shown into a large dining hall with a stone floor,
+          wainscoted with carved oak, almost as black as ebony. There were some pious
+          sentences and moral reflections inscribed in old English text, carved over the
+          doors, and like a cornice round the ceiling, which was also of carved oak.
+          Their general drift was, to say that life is short, and to call for
+          watchfulness and prayer. The fireplace of the hall yawned like a great cavern,
+          and nothing else, one would think, than a cart load of western sycamores could
+          have supplied an appropriate fire. A great two-handed sword of some ancestor
+          hung over the fireplace. On taking it down it reached to C&mdash;&mdash;'s
+          shoulder, who, you know, is six feet high.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went into a sort of sitting room, and looked out through a
+          window, latticed with little diamond panes, upon a garden wildly beautiful. The
+          lattice was all wreathed round with jessamines. The furniture of this room was
+          modern, and it seemed the more unique from its contrast with the old
+          architecture.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went up stairs to see the chambers, and passed through a
+          long, narrow, black oak corridor, whose slippery boards had the authentic
+          ghostly squeak to them. There was a chamber, hung with old, faded tapestry of
+          Scripture subjects. In this chamber there was behind the tapestry a door,
+          which, being opened, displayed a staircase, that led delightfully off to nobody
+          knows where. The furniture was black oak, carved, in the most elaborate manner,
+          with cherubs' heads and other good and solemn subjects, calculated to produce a
+          ghostly state of mind. And, to crown all, we heard that there was a haunted
+          chamber, which was not to be opened, where a white lady appeared and walked at
+          all approved hours.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now, only think what a foundation for a story is here. If our
+          Hawthorne could conjure up such a thing as the Seven Gables in one of our
+          prosaic country towns, what would he have done if he had lived here? Now he is
+          obliged to get his ghostly images by looking through smoked glass at our
+          square, cold realities; but one such old place as this is a standing romance.
+          Perhaps it may add to the effect to say, that the owner of the house is a
+          bachelor, who lives there very retired, and employs himself much in
+          reading.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The housekeeper, who showed us about, indulged us with a view of
+          the kitchen, whose snowy, sanded floor and resplendent polished copper and tin,
+          were sights for a housekeeper to take away in her heart of hearts. The good
+          woman produced her copy of Uncle Tom, and begged the favor of my autograph,
+          which I gave, thinking it quite a happy thing to be able to do a favor at so
+          cheap a rate.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After going over the house we wandered through the grounds,
+          which are laid out with the same picturesque mixture of the past and present.
+          There was a fine grove, under whose shadows we walked, picking primroses, and
+          otherwise enacting the poetic, till it was time to go. As we passed out, we
+          were again saluted with a <em>feu de joie</em> by the two fidelities at the
+          door, which we took in very good part, since it is always respectable to be
+          thorough in whatever you are set to do.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Coming home we met with an accident to the carriage which
+          obliged us to get out and walk some distance. I was glad enough of it, because
+          it gave me a better opportunity for seeing the country. We stopped at a cottage
+          to get some rope, and a young woman came out with that beautiful, clear
+          complexion which I so much admire here in England; literally her cheeks were
+          like damask roses.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I told Isa I wanted to see as much of the interior of the
+          cottages as I could; and so, as we were walking onward toward home, we managed
+          to call once or twice, on the excuse of asking the way and distance. The
+          exterior was very neat, being built of brick or stone, and each had attached to
+          it a little flower garden. Isa said that the cottagers often offered them a
+          slice of bread or tumbler of milk.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">They have a way here of building the cottages two or three in a
+          block together, which struck me as different from our New England manner,
+          where, in the country, every house stands detached.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening I went into Liverpool, to attend a party of
+          friends of the antislavery cause. In the course of the evening, Mr. Stowe was
+          requested to make some remarks. Among other things he spoke upon the support
+          the free part of the world give to slavery, by the purchase of the produce of
+          slave labor; and, in particular, on the great quantity of slave-grown cotton
+          purchased by England; suggesting it as a subject for inquiry, whether this
+          cannot be avoided.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One or two gentlemen, who are largely concerned in the
+          manufacture and importation of cotton, spoke to him on the subject afterwards,
+          and said it was a thing which ought to be very seriously considered. It is
+          probable that the cotton trade of Great Britain is the great essential item
+          which supports slavery, and such considerations ought not, therefore, to be
+          without their results.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When I was going away, the lady of the house said that the
+          servants were anxious to see me; so I came into the dressing room to give them,
+          an opportunity.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">While at Mr. C.'s, also, I had once or twice been called out to
+          see servants, who had come in to visit those of the family. All of them had
+          read Uncle Tom's Cabin, and were full of sympathy. Generally speaking, the
+          servants seem to me quite a superior class to what are employed in that
+          capacity with us. They look very intelligent, are dressed with great neatness,
+          and though their manners are very much more deferential than those of servants
+          in our country, it appears to be a difference arising quite as much from
+          self-respect and a sense of propriety as from servility. Every body's manners
+          are more deferential in England than in America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next day was appointed to leave Liverpool. It had been
+          arranged that, before leaving, we should meet the ladies of the Negroes' Friend
+          Society, an association formed at the time of the original antislavery
+          agitation in England. We went in the carriage with our friends Mr. and Mrs. E.
+          Cropper. On the way they were conversing upon the labors of Mrs. Chisholm, the
+          celebrated female philanthropist, whose efforts for the benefit of emigrants
+          are awakening a very general interest among all classes in England. They said
+          there had been hesitation on the part of some good people, in regard to
+          co&ouml;perating with her, because she is a Roman Catholic.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was agreed among us, that the great humanities of the present
+          day are a proper ground on which all sects can unite, and that if any feared
+          the extension of wrong sentiments, they had only to supply emigrant ships more
+          abundantly with the Bible. Mr. C. said that this is a movement exciting very
+          extensive interest, and that they hoped Mrs. Chisholm would visit Liverpool
+          before long.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The meeting was a very interesting one. The style of feeling
+          expressed in all the remarks was tempered by a deep and earnest remembrance of
+          the share which England originally had in planting the evil of slavery in the
+          civilized world, and her consequent obligation, as a Christian nation, now not
+          to cease her efforts until the evil is extirpated, not merely from her own
+          soil, but from all lands.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The feeling towards America was respectful and friendly, and the
+          utmost sympathy was expressed with her in the difficulties with which she is
+          environed by this evil. The tone of the meeting was deeply earnest and
+          religious. They presented us with a sum to be appropriated for the benefit of
+          the slave, in any way we might think proper.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A great number of friends accompanied us to the cars, and a
+          beautiful bouquet of flowers was sent, with a very affecting message from, a
+          sick gentleman, who, from the retirement of his chamber, felt a desire to
+          testify his sympathy.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now, if all this enthusiasm for freedom and humanity, in the
+          person of the American slave, is to be set down as good for nothing in England,
+          because there are evils there in society which require redress, what then shall
+          we say of ourselves? Have we not been enthusiastic for freedom in the person of
+          the Greek, the Hungarian, and the Pole, while protecting a much worse despotism
+          than any from which they suffer? Do we not consider it our duty to print and
+          distribute the Bible in all foreign lands, when there are three millions of
+          people among whom we dare not distribute it at home, and whom it is a penal
+          offence even to teach to read it? Do we not send remonstrances to Tuscany,
+          about the Madiai, when women are imprisoned in Virginia for teaching slaves to
+          read? Is all this hypocritical, insincere, and impertinent in us? Are we never
+          to send another missionary, or make another appeal for foreign lands, till we
+          have abolished slavery at home? For my part, I think that imperfect and
+          inconsistent outbursts of generosity and feeling are a great deal better than
+          none. No nation, no individual is wholly consistent and Christian; but let us
+          not in ourselves or in other nations repudiate the truest and most beautiful
+          developments of humanity, because we have not yet attained perfection.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All experience has proved that the sublime spirit of foreign
+          missions always is suggestive of home philanthropies, and that those whose
+          heart has been enlarged by the love of all mankind are always those who are
+          most efficient in their own particular sphere.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_20" name="toc_20"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter III</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">Glasgow</span>, April 16, 1853.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear Aunt
+          E.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">You shall have my earliest Scotch letter; for I am sure nobody
+          can sympathize in the emotions of the first approach to Scotland as you can. A
+          country dear to us by the memory of the dead and of the living; a country whose
+          history and literature, interesting enough of itself, has become to us still
+          more so, because the reading and learning of it formed part of our communion
+          for many a social hour, with friends long parted from earth.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The views of Scotland, which lay on my mother's table, even
+          while I was a little child, and in poring over which I spent so many happy,
+          dreamy hours,&mdash;the Scotch ballads, which were the delight of our evening
+          fireside, and which seemed almost to melt the soul out of me, before I was old
+          enough to understand their words,&mdash;the songs of Burns, which had been a
+          household treasure among us,&mdash;the enchantments of Scott,&mdash;all these
+          dimly returned upon me. It was the result of them all which I felt in nerve and
+          brain.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">And, by the by, that puts me in mind of one thing; and that is,
+          how much of our pleasure in literature results from its reflection on us from,
+          other minds. As we advance in life, the literature which has charmed us in the
+          circle of our friends becomes endeared to us from the reflected remembrance of
+          them, of their individualities, their opinions, and their sympathies, so that
+          our memory of it is a many-colored cord, drawn from many minds.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">So in coming near to Scotland, I seemed to feel not only my own
+          individuality, but all that my friends would have felt, had they been with me.
+          For sometimes we seem to be encompassed, as by a cloud, with a sense of the
+          sympathy of the absent and the dead.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We left Liverpool with hearts a little tremulous and excited by
+          the vibration of an atmosphere of universal sympathy and kindness. We found
+          ourselves, at length, shut from the warm adieus of our friends, in a snug
+          compartment of the railroad car. The English cars are models of comfort and
+          good keeping. There are six seats in a compartment, luxuriously cushioned and
+          nicely carpeted, and six was exactly the number of our party. Nevertheless, so
+          obstinate is custom that we averred at first that we preferred our American
+          cars, deficient as they are in many points of neatness and luxury, because they
+          are so much more social.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Dear me," said Mr. S., "six Yankees shut up in a car together!
+          Not one Englishman to tell us any thing about the country! Just like the six
+          old ladies that made their living by taking tea at each other's houses."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">But that is the way here in England: every arrangement in
+          travelling is designed to maintain that privacy and reserve which is the
+          dearest and most sacred part of an Englishman's nature. Things are so arranged
+          here that, if a man pleases, he can travel all through England with his family,
+          and keep the circle an unbroken unit, having just as little communication with
+          any thing outside of it as in his own house.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From one of these sheltered apartments in a railroad car, he can
+          pass to pre&euml;ngaged parlors and chambers in the hotel, with his own
+          separate table, and all his domestic manners and peculiarities unbroken. In
+          fact, it is a little compact home travelling about.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now, all this is very charming to people who know already as
+          much about a country as they want to know; but it follows from it that a
+          stranger might travel all through England, from one end to the other and not be
+          on conversing terms with a person in it. He may be at the same hotel, in the
+          same train with people able to give him all imaginable information, yet never
+          touch them at any practicable point of communion. This is more especially the
+          case if his party, as ours was, is just large enough to fill the whole
+          apartment.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to the comforts of the cars, it is to be said, that for the
+          same price you can get far more comfortable riding in America. Their first
+          class cars are beyond all praise, but also beyond all price; their second class
+          are comfortless, cushionless, and uninviting. Agreeably with our theory of
+          democratic equality, we have a general car, not so complete as the one, nor so
+          bare as the other, where all ride together; and if the traveller in thus riding
+          sees things that occasionally annoy him, when he remembers that the whole
+          population, from the highest to the lowest, are accommodated here together, he
+          will certainly see hopeful indications in the general comfort, order, and
+          respectability which prevail; all which we talked over most patriotically
+          together, while we were lamenting that there was not a seventh to our party, to
+          instruct us in the localities.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Every thing upon the railroad proceeds with systematic accuracy.
+          There is no chance for the most careless person to commit a blunder, or make a
+          mistake. At the proper time the conductor marches every body into their places
+          and locks them in, gives the word, "All right," and away we go. Somebody has
+          remarked, very characteristically, that the starting word of the English is
+          "all right," and that of the Americans "go ahead."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Away we go through Lancashire, wide awake, looking out on all
+          sides for any signs of antiquity. In being thus whirled through English
+          scenery, I became conscious of a new understanding of the spirit and
+          phraseology of English poetry. There are many phrases and expressions with
+          which we have been familiar from childhood, and which, we suppose, in a kind of
+          indefinite way, we understand, which, after all, when we come on English
+          ground, start into a new significance: take, for instance, these lines from
+          L'Allegro:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Sometimes walking, not unseen,</p>
+            <p class="l">By hedge-row elms on hillocks green.</p>
+            <p class="l">* * * *</p>
+            <p class="l">Straight mine eye hath caught new pleasures,</p>
+            <p class="l">While the landscape round it measures;</p>
+            <p class="l">Russet lawns and fallows gray,</p>
+            <p class="l">Where the nibbling flocks do stray;</p>
+            <p class="l">Mountains, on whose barren breast</p>
+            <p class="l">The laboring clouds do often rest;</p>
+            <p class="l">Meadows trim with daisies pied,</p>
+            <p class="l">Shallow brooks and livers wide:</p>
+            <p class="l">Towers and battlements it sees</p>
+            <p class="l">Bosom'd high in tufted trees."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Now, these hedge-row elms. I had never even asked myself
+          what they were till I saw them; but you know, as I said in a former letter, the
+          hedges are not all of them carefully cut; in fact many of them are only
+          irregular rows of bushes, where, although the hawthorn is the staple element,
+          yet firs, and brambles, and many other interlopers put in their claim, and they
+          all grow up together in a kind of straggling unity; and in the hedges trees are
+          often set out, particularly elms, and have a very pleasing effect.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then, too, the trees have more of that rounding outline which is
+          expressed by the word "bosomed." But here we are, right under the walls of
+          Lancaster, and Mr. S. wakes me up by quoting, "Old John o' Gaunt, time-honored
+          Lancaster."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Time-honored," said I; "it looks as fresh as if it had been
+          built yesterday: you do not mean to say that is the real old castle?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"To be sure, it is the very old castle built in the reign of
+          Edward III., by John of Gaunt."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It stands on the summit of a hill, seated regally like a queen
+          upon a throne, and every part of it looks as fresh, and sharp, and clear, as if
+          it were the work of modern times. It is used now for a county jail. We have but
+          a moment to stop or admire&mdash;the merciless steam car drives on. We have a
+          little talk about the feudal times, and the old past days; when again the cry
+          goes up,&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"O, there's something! What's that?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"O, that is Carlisle."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Carlisle!" said I; "what, the Carlisle of Scott's ballad?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"What ballad?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Why, don't you remember, in the Lay of the Last Minstrel, the
+          song of Albert Graeme, which has something about Carlisle's wall in every
+          verse?</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">'It was an English, laydie bright</p>
+            <p class="l">When sun shines fair on Carlisle wall,</p>
+            <p class="l">And she would marry a Scottish knight,</p>
+            <p class="l">For love will still be lord of all.'</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I used to read this when I was a child, and wonder what
+          'Carlisle wall' was."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Carlisle is one of the most ancient cities in England, dating
+          quite back to the time of the Romans. Wonderful! How these Romans left their
+          mark every where!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Carlisle has also its ancient castle, the lofty, massive tower
+          of which forms a striking feature of the town.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image8.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">This castle was built by William Rufus. David, King of Scots,
+          and Robert Bruce both tried their hands upon it, in the good old times, when
+          England and Scotland were a mutual robbery association. Then the castle of the
+          town was its great feature; castles were every thing in those days. Now the
+          castle has gone to decay, and stands only for a curiosity, and the cotton
+          factory has come up in its place. This place is famous for cottons and
+          ginghams, and moreover for a celebrated biscuit bakery. So goes the
+          world,&mdash;the lively vigorous shoots of the present springing out of the
+          old, mouldering trunk of the past.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. S. was in an ecstasy about an old church, a splendid Gothic,
+          in which Paley preached. He was archdeacon of Carlisle. We stopped here for a
+          little while to take dinner. In a large, handsome room tables were set out, and
+          we sat down to a regular meal.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One sees nothing of a town from a railroad station, since it
+          seems to be an invariable rule, not only here, but all over Europe, to locate
+          them so that you can see nothing from them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">By the by, I forgot to say, among the historical recollections
+          of this place, that it was the first stopping-place of Queen Mary, after her
+          fatal flight into England. The rooms which she occupied are still shown in the
+          castle, and there are interesting letters and documents extant from lords whom
+          Elizabeth sent here to visit her, in which they record her beauty, her heroic
+          sentiments, and even her dress; so strong was the fascination in which she held
+          all who approached her. Carlisle is the scene of the denouement of Guy
+          Mannering, and it is from this town that Lord Carlisle gets his title.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">And now keep up a bright lookout for ruins and old houses. Mr.
+          S., whose eyes are always in every place, allowed none of us to slumber, but
+          looking out, first on his own side and then on ours, called our attention to
+          every visible thing. If he had been appointed on a mission of inquiry he could
+          not have been more zealous and faithful, and I began to think that our desire
+          for an English cicerone was quite superfluous.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">And now we pass Gretna Green, famous in story&mdash;that
+          momentous place which marks the commencement of Scotland. It is a little
+          straggling village, and there is a roadside inn, which has been the scene of
+          innumerable Gretna Green marriages.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Owing to the fact that the Scottish law of marriage is far more
+          liberal in its construction than the English, this place has been the refuge of
+          distressed lovers from time immemorial; and although the practice of escaping
+          here is universally condemned as very naughty and improper, yet, like every
+          other impropriety, it is kept in countenance by very respectable people. Two
+          lord chancellors have had the amiable weakness to fall into this snare, and one
+          lord chancellor's son; so says the guide book, which is our Koran for the time
+          being. It says, moreover, that it would be easy to add a lengthened list of
+          <em>distingu&eacute;s</em> married at Gretna Green; but these lord chancellors
+          (Erskine and Eldon) are quoted as being the most melancholy monuments. What
+          shall meaner mortals do, when law itself, in all her majesty, wig, gown, and
+          all, goes by the board?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Well, we are in Scotland at last, and now our pulse rises as the
+          sun declines in the west. We catch glimpses of the Solway Frith, and talk about
+          Redgauntlet.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One says, "Do you remember the scene on the sea shore, with
+          which it opens, describing the rising of the tide?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">And says another, "Don't you remember those lines in the Young
+          Lochinvar song?&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">'Love swells like the Solway, but ebbs like its tide.'"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I wonder how many authors it will take to enchant our
+          country from Maine to New Orleans, as every foot of ground is enchanted here in
+          Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The sun went down, and night drew on; still we were in Scotland.
+          Scotch ballads, Scotch tunes, and Scotch literature were in the ascendant. We
+          sang "Auld Lang Syne," "Scots wha ha'," and "Bonnie Doon," and then, changing
+          the key, sang Dundee, Elgin, and Martyrs.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Take care," said Mr. S.; "don't get too much excited."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Ah," said I, "this is a thing that comes only once in a
+          lifetime; do let us have the comfort of it. We shall never come into Scotland
+          for the <em>first time</em> again."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Ah," said another, "how I wish Walter Scott was alive!"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">While we were thus at the fusion point of enthusiasm, the cars
+          stopped at Lockerby, where the real Old Mortality is buried. All was dim and
+          dark outside, but we soon became conscious that there was quite a number
+          collected, peering into the window, and, with a strange kind of thrill, I heard
+          my name inquired for in the Scottish accent. I went to the window; there were
+          men, women, and children there, and hand after hand was presented, with the
+          words, "Ye're welcome to Scotland!"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then they inquired for, and shook hands with, all the party,
+          having in some mysterious manner got the knowledge of who they were, even down
+          to little G&mdash;&mdash;, whom they took to be my son. Was it not pleasant,
+          when I had a heart so warm for this old country? I shall never forget the
+          thrill of those words, "Ye're welcome to Scotland," nor the "Gude night."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After that we found similar welcomes in many succeeding
+          stopping-places; and though I did wave a towel out of the window, instead of a
+          pocket handkerchief, and commit other awkwardnesses, from not knowing how to
+          play my part, yet I fancied, after all, that Scotland and we were coming on
+          well together. Who the good souls were that were thus watching for us through
+          the night, I am sure I do not know; but that they were of the "one blood,"
+          which unites all the families of the earth, I felt.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we came towards Glasgow, we saw, upon a high hill, what we
+          supposed to be a castle on fire&mdash;great volumes of smoke rolling up, and
+          fire looking out of arched windows.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Dear me, what a conflagration!" we all exclaimed. We had not
+          gone very far before we saw another, and then, on the opposite side of the car,
+          another still.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Why, it seems to me the country is all on fire."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I should think," said Mr. S., "if it was in old times, that
+          there had been a raid from the Highlands, and set all the houses on fire."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Or they might be beacons," suggested C.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To this some one answered out of the Lay of the Last
+          Minstrel,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Sweet Teviot, by thy silver tide</p>
+            <p class="l">The glaring bale-fires blaze no more."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">As we drew near to Glasgow these illuminations increased,
+          till the whole air was red with the glare of them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"What can they be?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Dear me," said Mr. S., in a tone of sudden recollection, "it's
+          the iron works! Don't you know Glasgow is celebrated for its iron works?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">So, after all, in these peaceful fires of the iron works, we got
+          an idea how the country might have looked in the old picturesque times, when
+          the Highlanders came down and set the Lowlands on fire; such scenes as are
+          commemorated in the words of Roderick Dhu's song:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Proudly our pibroch, has thrilled in Glen Fruin,</p>
+            <p class="l">And Banmachar's groans to our slogan replied;</p>
+            <p class="l">Glen Luss and Ross Dhu, they are smoking in ruins,</p>
+            <p class="l">And the best of Loch Lomond lies dead on her side."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">To be sure the fires of iron founderies are much less
+          picturesque than the old beacons, and the clink of hammers than the clash of
+          claymores; but the most devout worshipper of the middle ages would hardly wish
+          to change them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Dimly, by the flickering light of these furnaces, we see the
+          approach to the old city of Glasgow. There, we are arrived! Friends are waiting
+          in the station house. Earnest, eager, friendly faces, ever so many. Warm
+          greetings, kindly words. A crowd parting in the middle, through which we were
+          conducted into a carriage, and loud cheers of welcome, sent a throb, as the
+          voice of living Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I looked out of the carriage, as we drove on, and saw, by the
+          light of a lantern, Argyle Street. It was past twelve o'clock when I found
+          myself in a warm, cozy parlor, with friends, whom I have ever since been glad
+          to remember. In a little time we were all safely housed in our hospitable
+          apartments, and sleep fell on me for the first time in Scotland.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_21" name="toc_21"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter IV</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear
+          Aunt E.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next morning I awoke worn and weary, and scarce could the
+          charms of the social Scotch breakfast restore me. I say Scotch, for we had many
+          viands peculiarly national. The smoking porridge, or parritch, of oatmeal,
+          which is the great staple dish throughout Scotland. Then there was the bannock,
+          a thin, wafer-like cake of the same material. My friend laughingly said when he
+          passed it, "You are in the 'land o' cakes,' remember." There was also some
+          herring, as nice a Scottish fish as ever wore scales, besides dainties
+          innumerable which were not national.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our friend and host was Mr. Baillie Paton. I believe that it is
+          to his suggestion in a public meeting, that we owe the invitation which brought
+          us to Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">By the by, I should say that "baillie" seems to correspond to
+          what we call a member of the city council. Mr. Paton told us, that they had
+          expected us earlier, and that the day before quite a party of friends met at
+          his house to see us, among whom was good old Dr. Wardlaw.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After breakfast the calling began. First, a friend of the
+          family, with three beautiful children, the youngest of whom was the bearer of a
+          handsomely bound album, containing a pressed collection of the sea mosses of
+          the Scottish coast, very vivid and beautiful.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">If the bloom of English children appeared to me wonderful, I
+          seemed to find the same thing intensified, if possible, in Scotland. The
+          children are brilliant as pomegranate blossoms, and their vivid beauty called
+          forth unceasing admiration. Nor is it merely the children of the rich, or of
+          the higher classes, that are thus gifted. I have seen many a group of ragged
+          urchins in the streets and closes with all the high coloring of Rubens, and all
+          his fulness of outline. Why is it that we admire ragged children on canvas so
+          much more than the same in nature?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All this day is a confused dream to me of a dizzy and
+          overwhelming kind. So many letters that it took C&mdash;&mdash; from nine in
+          the morning till two in the afternoon to read and answer them in the shortest
+          manner; letters from all classes of people, high and low, rich and poor, in all
+          shades and styles of composition, poetry and prose; some mere outbursts of
+          feeling; some invitations; some advice and suggestions; some requests and
+          inquiries; some presenting books, or flowers, or fruit.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then came, in their turn, deputations from Paisley, Greenock,
+          Dundee, Aberdeen, Edinburgh, and Belfast in Ireland; calls of friendship,
+          invitations of all descriptions to go every where, and to see every thing, and
+          to stay in so many places. One kind, venerable minister, with his lovely
+          daughter, offered me a retreat in his quiet manse on the beautiful shores of
+          the Clyde.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">For all these kindnesses, what could I give in return? There was
+          scarce time for even a grateful thought on each. People have often said to me
+          that it must have been an exceeding bore. For my part, I could not think of
+          regarding it so. It only oppressed me with an unutterable sadness.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To me there is always something interesting and beautiful about
+          a universal popular excitement of a generous character, let the object of it be
+          what it may. The great desiring heart of man, surging with one strong,
+          sympathetic swell, even though it be to break on the beach of life and fall
+          backwards, leaving the sands as barren as before, has yet a meaning and a power
+          in its restlessness, with which I must deeply sympathize. Nor do I sympathize
+          any the less, when the individual, who calls forth such an outburst, can be
+          seen by the eye of sober sense to be altogether inadequate and disproportioned
+          to it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I do not regard it as any thing against our American nation,
+          that we are capable, to a very great extent, of these sudden personal
+          enthusiasms, because I think that, with an individual or a community, the
+          capability of being exalted into a temporary enthusiasm of self-forgetfulness,
+          so far from being a fault, has in it a quality of something divine.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Of course, about all such things there is a great deal which a
+          cool critic could make ridiculous, but I hold to my opinion of them
+          nevertheless.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the afternoon I rode out with the lord provost to see the
+          cathedral. The lord provost answers to the lord mayor in England. His title and
+          office in both countries continue only a year, except in cases of
+          re&euml;lection.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As I saw the way to the cathedral blocked up by a throng of
+          people, who had come out to see me, I could not help saying, "What went ye out
+          for to see? a reed shaken with the wind?" In fact, I was so worn out, that I
+          could hardly walk through the building.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is in this cathedral that part of the scene of Rob Roy is
+          laid. This was my first experience in cathedrals. It was a new thing to me
+          altogether, and as I walked along under the old buttresses and battlements
+          without, and looked into the bewildering labyrinths of architecture within, I
+          saw that, with silence and solitude to help the impression, the old building
+          might become a strong part of one's inner life. A grave yard crowded with flat
+          stones lies all around it. A deep ravine separates it from another cemetery on
+          an opposite eminence, rustling with dark pines. A little brook murmurs with its
+          slender voice between.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image9.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">On this opposite eminence the statue of John Knox, grim and
+          strong, stands with its arm uplifted, as if shaking his fist at the old
+          cathedral which in life he vainly endeavored to battle down.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Knox was very different from Luther, in that he had no
+          conservative element in him, but warred equally against accessories and
+          essentials.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At the time when the churches of Scotland were being pulled down
+          in a general iconoclastic crusade, the tradesmen of Glasgow stood for the
+          defence of their cathedral, and forced the reformers to content themselves with
+          having the idolatrous images of saints pulled down from their niches and thrown
+          into the brook, while, as Andrew Fairservice hath it, "The auld kirk stood as
+          crouse as a cat when the fleas are caimed aff her, and a' body was alike
+          pleased."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went all through the cathedral, which is fitted up as a
+          Protestant place of worship, and has a simple and massive grandeur about it. In
+          fact, to quote again from our friend Andrew, we could truly say, "Ah, it's a
+          brave kirk, nane o' yere whig-malceries, and curliewurlies, and opensteek hems
+          about it&mdash;a' solid, weel-jointed mason wark, that will stand as lang as
+          the warld, keep hands and gun-powther aff it."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I was disappointed in one thing: the painted glass, if there has
+          ever been any, is almost all gone, and the glare of light through the immense
+          windows is altogether too great, revealing many defects and rudenesses in the
+          architecture, which would have quite another appearance in the colored rays
+          through painted windows&mdash;an emblem, perhaps, of the cold, definite,
+          intellectual rationalism, which has taken the place of the many-colored,
+          gorgeous mysticism of former times.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After having been over the church, we requested, out of respect
+          to Baillie Nicol Jarvie's memory, to be driven through the Saut Market. I,
+          however, was so thoroughly tired that I cannot remember any thing about it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I will say, by the way, that I have found out since, that
+          nothing is so utterly hazardous to a person's strength as looking at
+          cathedrals. The strain upon the head and eyes in looking up through these
+          immense arches, and then the sepulchral chill which abides from generation to
+          generation in them, their great extent, and the variety which tempts you to
+          fatigue which you are not at all aware of, have overcome, as I was told, many
+          before me.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. S. and C&mdash;&mdash;, however, made amends, by their great
+          activity and zeal, for all that I could not do, and I was pleased to understand
+          from them, that part of the old Tolbooth, where Rob Roy and the baillie had
+          their rencontre, was standing safe and sound, with stuff enough in it for half
+          a dozen more stories, if any body could be found to write them. And Mr. S.
+          insisted upon it, that I should not omit to notify you of this
+          circumstance.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Well, in consequence of all this, the next morning I was so ill
+          as to need a physician, unable to see any one that called, or to hear any of
+          the letters. I passed most of the day in bed, but in the evening I had to get
+          up, as I had engaged to drink tea with two thousand people. Our kind friends
+          Dr. and Mrs. Wardlaw came after us, and Mr. S. and I went in the carriage with
+          them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Dr. Wardlaw is a venerable-looking old man; we both thought we
+          saw a striking resemblance in him to our friend Dr. Woods, of Andover. He is
+          still quite active in body and mind, and officiates to his congregation with
+          great acceptance. I fear, however, that he is in ill health, for I noticed, as
+          we were passing along to church, that he frequently laid his hand upon his
+          heart, and seemed in pain. He said he hoped he should be able to get through
+          the evening, but that when he was not well, excitement was apt to bring on a
+          spasm about the heart; but with it all he seemed so cheerful, lively, and
+          benignant, that I could not but feel my affections drawn towards him. Mrs.
+          Wardlaw is a gentle, motherly woman, and it was a great comfort to have her
+          with me on such an occasion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our carriage stopped at last at the place. I have a dim
+          remembrance of a way being made for us through a great crowd all round the
+          house, and of going with Mrs. Wardlaw up into a dressing room, where I met and
+          shook hands with many friendly people. Then we passed into a gallery, where a
+          seat was reserved for our party, directly in front of the audience. Our friend
+          Baillie Paton presided. Mrs. Wardlaw and I sat together, and around us many
+          friends, chiefly ministers of the different churches, the ladies and gentlemen
+          of the Glasgow Antislavery Society, and others.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I told you it was a tea party; but the arrangements were
+          altogether different from any I had ever seen. There were narrow tables
+          stretched up and down the whole extent of the great hall, and every person had
+          an appointed seat. These tables were set out with cups and saucers, cakes,
+          biscuit, &amp;c., and when the proper time came, attendants passed along
+          serving tea. The arrangements were so accurate and methodical that the whole
+          multitude actually took tea together, without the least apparent inconvenience
+          or disturbance.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There was a gentle, subdued murmur of conversation all over the
+          house, the sociable clinking of teacups and teaspoons, while the entertainment
+          was going on. It seemed to me such an odd idea, I could not help wondering what
+          sort of a teapot that must be, in which all this tea for two thousand people
+          was made. Truly, as Hadji Baba says, I think they must have had the "father of
+          all teakettles" to boil it in. I could not help wondering if old mother
+          Scotland had put two thousand teaspoonfuls of tea for the company, and one for
+          the teapot, as is our good Yankee custom.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We had quite a sociable time up in our gallery. Our tea table
+          stretched quite across the gallery, and we drank tea "in sight of all the
+          people." By <em>we</em>, I mean a great number of ministers and their wives,
+          and ladies of the Antislavery Society, besides our party, and the friends whom
+          I have mentioned before. All seemed to be enjoying themselves.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After tea they sang a few verses of the seventy-second psalm in
+          the old Scotch version.</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The people's poor ones he shall judge,</p>
+            <p class="l">The needy's children save;</p>
+            <p class="l">And those shall he in pieces break,</p>
+            <p class="l">Who them oppressed have.</p>
+            <p class="l">For he the needy shall preserve,</p>
+            <p class="l">When he to him doth call;</p>
+            <p class="l">The poor, also, and him that hath</p>
+            <p class="l">No help of man at all.</p>
+            <p class="l">Both from deceit and violence</p>
+            <p class="l">Their soul he shall set free;</p>
+            <p class="l">And in his sight right precious</p>
+            <p class="l">And dear their blood shall be.</p>
+            <p class="l">Now blessed be the Lord, our God,</p>
+            <p class="l">The God of Israel,</p>
+            <p class="l">For he alone doth wondrous works,</p>
+            <p class="l">In glory that excel.</p>
+            <p class="l">And blessed be his glorious name</p>
+            <p class="l">To all eternity;</p>
+            <p class="l">The whole earth let his glory fill:</p>
+            <p class="l">Amen; so let it be."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">When I heard the united sound of all the voices, giving
+          force to these simple and pathetic words, I thought I could see something of
+          the reason why that rude old translation still holds its place in Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The addresses were, many of them, very beautiful; the more so
+          for the earnest and religious feeling which they manifested. That of Dr.
+          Wardlaw, in particular, was full of comfort and encouragement, and breathed a
+          most candid and catholic spirit. Could our friends in America see with what
+          earnest warmth the religious heart of Scotland beats towards them, they would
+          be willing to suffer a word of admonition from those to whom love gives a right
+          to speak. As Christians, all have a common interest in what honors or dishonors
+          Christianity, and an ocean between us does not make us less one church.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Most of the speeches you will see recorded in the papers. In the
+          course of the evening there was a second service of grapes, oranges, and other
+          fruits, served round in the same quiet manner as the tea. On account of the
+          feeble state of my health, they kindly excused me before the exercises of the
+          evening were over.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next morning, at ten o'clock, we rode with a party of
+          friends to see some of the <em>notabilia</em>. First, to Bothwell Castle, of
+          old the residence of the Black Douglas. The name had for me the quality of
+          enchantment. I cannot understand nor explain the nature of that sad yearning
+          and longing with which one visits the mouldering remains of a state of society
+          which one's reason wholly disapproves, and which one's calm sense of right
+          would think it the greatest misfortune to have recalled; yet when the carriage
+          turned under the shadow of beautiful ancient oaks, and Mr. S. said, "There, we
+          are in the grounds of the old Black Douglas family!" I felt every nerve shiver.
+          I remembered the dim melodies of the Lady of the Lake. Bothwell's lord was the
+          lord of this castle, whose beautiful ruins here adorn the banks of the
+          Clyde.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image10.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">Whatever else we have or may have in America, we shall never
+          have the wild, poetic beauty of these ruins. The present noble possessors are
+          fully aware of their worth as objects of taste, and, therefore, with the
+          greatest care are they preserved. Winding walks are cut through the grounds
+          with much ingenuity, and seats or arbors are placed at every desirable and
+          picturesque point of view.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To the thorough-paced tourist, who wants to <em>do</em> the
+          proprieties in the shortest possible time, this arrangement is undoubtedly
+          particularly satisfactory; but to the idealist, who would like to roam, and
+          dream, and feel, and to come unexpectedly on the choicest points of view, it is
+          rather a damper to have all his raptures prearranged and foreordained for him,
+          set down in the guide book and proclaimed by the guide, even though it should
+          be done with the most artistic accuracy.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Nevertheless, when we came to the arbor which commanded the
+          finest view of the old castle, and saw its gray, ivy-clad walls, standing forth
+          on a beautiful point, round which swept the brown, dimpling waves of the Clyde,
+          the indescribable sweetness, sadness, wildness of the whole scene would make
+          its voice heard in our hearts. "Thy servants take pleasure in her dust, and
+          favor the stones thereof," said an old Hebrew poet, who must have felt the
+          inexpressibly sad beauty of a ruin. All the splendid phantasmagoria of chivalry
+          and feudalism, knights, ladies, banners, glittering arms, sweep before us; the
+          cry of the battle, the noise of the captains, and the shouting; and then in
+          contrast this deep stillness, that green, clinging ivy, the gentle, rippling
+          river, those weeping birches, dipping in its soft waters&mdash;all these, in
+          their quiet loveliness, speak of something more imperishable than brute
+          force.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The ivy on the walls now displays a trunk in some places as
+          large as a man's body. In the days of old Archibald the Grim, I suppose that
+          ivy was a little, weak twig, which, if he ever noticed, he must have thought
+          the feeblest and slightest of all things; yet Archibald has gone back to dust,
+          and the ivy is still growing on. Such force is there in gentle things.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I have often been dissatisfied with the admiration, which a
+          poetic education has woven into my nature, for chivalry and feudalism; but, on
+          a closer examination, I am convinced that there is a real and proper foundation
+          for it, and that, rightly understood, this poetic admiration is not
+          inconsistent with the spirit of Christ.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">For, let us consider what it is we admire in these Douglases,
+          for instance, who, as represented by Scott, are perhaps as good exponents of
+          the idea as any. Was it their hardness, their cruelty, their hastiness to take
+          offence, their fondness for blood and murder? All these, by and of themselves,
+          are simply disgusting. What, then, do we admire? Their courage, their
+          fortitude, their scorn of lying and dissimulation, their high sense of personal
+          honor, which led them to feel themselves the protectors of the weak, and to
+          disdain to take advantage of unequal odds against an enemy. If we read the book
+          of Isaiah, we shall see that some of the most striking representations of God
+          appeal to the very same principles of our nature.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The fact is, there can be no reliable character which has not
+          its basis in these strong qualities. The beautiful must ever rest in the arms
+          of the sublime. The gentle needs the strong to sustain it, as much as the rock
+          flowers need rocks to grow on, or yonder ivy the rugged wall which it embraces.
+          When we are admiring these things, therefore, we are only admiring some
+          sparkles and glimmers of that which is divine, and so coming nearer to Him in
+          whom all fulness dwells.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After admiring at a distance, we strolled through the ruins
+          themselves. Do you remember, in the Lady of the Lake, where the exiled Douglas,
+          recalling to his daughter the images of his former splendor, says,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"When Blantyre hymned, her holiest lays,</p>
+            <p class="l">And Bothwell's walls flung back the praise"?</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="dgp">These lines came forcibly to my mind, when I saw the mouldering
+          ruins of Blantyre priory rising exactly opposite to the castle, on the other
+          side of the Clyde.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image11.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">The banks of the River Clyde, where we walked, were thick set
+          with Portuguese laurel, which I have before mentioned as similar to our
+          rhododendron. I here noticed a fact with regard to the ivy which had often
+          puzzled me; and that is, the different shapes of its leaves in the different
+          stages of its growth. The young ivy has this leaf; but when it has become more
+          than a century old every trace and indentation melts away, and it assumes this
+          form, which I found afterwards to be the invariable shape of all the oldest
+          ivy, in all the ruins of Europe which I explored.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This ivy, like the spider, takes hold with her hands in kings'
+          palaces, as every twig is furnished with innumerable little clinging fingers,
+          by which it draws itself close, as it were, to the very heart of the old rough
+          stone.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Its clinging and beautiful tenacity has given rise to an
+          abundance of conceits about fidelity, friendship, and woman's love, which have
+          become commonplace simply from their appropriateness. It might, also, symbolize
+          that higher love, unconquerable and unconquered, which has embraced this ruined
+          world from age to age, silently spreading its green over the rents and fissures
+          of our fallen nature, giving "beauty for ashes, and garments of praise for the
+          spirit of heaviness."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is a modern mansion, where the present proprietor of the
+          estate lives. It was with an emotion partaking of the sorrowful, that we heard
+          that the Douglas line, as such, was extinct, and that the estate had passed to
+          distant connections. I was told that the present Lord Douglas is a peaceful
+          clergyman, quite a different character from old Archibald the Grim.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The present residence is a plain mansion, standing on a
+          beautiful lawn, near the old castle. The head gardener of the estate and many
+          of the servants came out to meet us, with faces full of interest. The gardener
+          walked about to show us the localities, and had a great deal of the quiet
+          intelligence and self-respect which, I think, is characteristic of the laboring
+          classes here. I noticed that on the green sweep of the lawn, he had set out
+          here and there a good many daisies, as embellishments to the grass, and these
+          in many places were defended by sticks bent over them, and that, in one place,
+          a bank overhanging the stream was radiant with yellow daffodils, which appeared
+          to have come up and blossomed there accidentally. I know not whether these were
+          planted there, or came up of themselves.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We next went to the famous Bothwell bridge, which Scott has
+          immortalized in Old Mortality. We walked up and down, trying to recall the
+          scenes of the battle, as there described, and were rather mortified, after we
+          had all our associations comfortably located upon it, to be told that it was
+          not the same bridge&mdash;it had been newly built, widened, and otherwise made
+          more comfortable and convenient.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Of course, this was evidently for the benefit of society, but it
+          was certainly one of those cases where the poetical suffers for the practical.
+          I comforted myself in my despondency, by looking over at the old stone piers
+          underneath, which were indisputably the same. We drove now through beautiful
+          grounds, and alighted at an elegant mansion, which in former days belonged to
+          Lockhart, the son-in-law of Scott. It was in this house that Old Mortality was
+          written.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As I was weary, the party left me here, while they went on to
+          see the Duke of Hamilton's grounds. Our kind hostess showed me into a small
+          study, where she said Old Mortality was written. The window commanded a
+          beautiful view of many of the localities described. Scott was as particular to
+          consult for accuracy in his local descriptions as if he had been writing a
+          guide book.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">He was in the habit of noting down in his memorandum book even
+          names and characteristics of the wild flowers and grasses that grew about a
+          place. When a friend once remarked to him, that he should have supposed his
+          imagination could have supplied such trifles, he made an answer that is worth
+          remembering by every artist&mdash;that no imagination could long support its
+          freshness, that was not nourished by a constant and minute observation of
+          nature.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Craignethan Castle, which is the original of Tillietudlem, we
+          were informed, was not far from thence. It is stated in Lockhart's Life of
+          Scott, that the ruins of this castle excited in Scott such delight and
+          enthusiasm, that its owner urged him to accept for his lifetime the use of a
+          small habitable house, enclosed within the circuit of the walls.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After the return of the party from Hamilton Park, we sat down to
+          an elegant lunch, where my eye was attracted more than any thing else, by the
+          splendor of the hothouse flowers which adorned the table. So far as I have
+          observed, the culture of flowers, both in England and Scotland, is more
+          universally an object of attention than with us. Every family in easy
+          circumstances seems, as a matter of course, to have their greenhouse, and the
+          flowers are brought to a degree of perfection which I have never seen at
+          home.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I may as well say here, that we were told by a gentleman, whose
+          name I do not now remember, that this whole district had been celebrated for
+          its orchards; he added, however, that since the introduction of the American
+          apple into the market, its superior excellence had made many of these orchards
+          almost entirely worthless. It is a curious fact, showing how the new world is
+          working on the old.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After taking leave of our hospitable friends, we took to our
+          carriages again. As we were driving slowly through the beautiful grounds,
+          admiring, as we never failed to do, their perfect cultivation, a party of
+          servants appeared in sight, waving their hats and handkerchiefs, and cheering
+          us as we passed. These kindly expressions from them were as pleasant as any we
+          received.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening we had engaged to attend another
+          <em>soir&eacute;e</em>, gotten up by the working classes, to give admission to
+          many who were not in circumstances to purchase tickets for the other. This was
+          to me, if any thing, a more interesting <em>r&eacute;union</em>, because this
+          was just the class whom I wished to meet. The arrangements of the entertainment
+          were like those of the evening before.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As I sat in the front gallery and looked over the audience with
+          an intense interest, I thought they appeared on the whole very much like what I
+          might have seen at home in a similar gathering. Men, women, and children were
+          dressed in a style which showed both self-respect and good taste, and the
+          speeches were far above mediocrity. One pale young man, a watchmaker, as I was
+          told afterwards, delivered an address, which, though doubtless it had the
+          promising fault of too much elaboration and ornament, yet I thought had
+          passages which would do honor to any literary periodical whatever.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were other orators less highly finished, who yet spoke
+          "right on," in a strong, forcible, and really eloquent way, giving the grain of
+          the wood without the varnish. They contended very seriously and sensibly, that
+          although the working men of England and Scotland had many things to complain
+          of, and many things to be reformed, yet their condition was world-wide
+          different from that of the slave.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One cannot read the history of the working classes in England,
+          for the last fifty years, without feeling sensibly the difference between
+          oppressions under a free government and slavery. So long as the working class
+          of England produces orators and writers, such as it undoubtedly has produced;
+          so long as it has in it that spirit of independence and resistance of wrong,
+          which has shown itself more and more during the agitations of the last fifty
+          years; and so as long as the law allows them to meet and debate, to form
+          associations and committees, to send up remonstrances and petitions to
+          government,&mdash;one can see that their case is essentially different from
+          that of plantation slaves.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I must say, I was struck this night with the resemblance between
+          the Scotchman and the New Englander. One sees the distinctive nationality of a
+          country more in the middle and laboring classes than in the higher, and
+          accordingly at this meeting there was more nationality, I thought, than at the
+          other.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The highest class of mind in all countries loses nationality,
+          and becomes universal; it is a great pity, too, because nationality is
+          picturesque always. One of the greatest miracles to my mind about Kossuth was,
+          that with so universal an education, and such an extensive range of language
+          and thought, he was yet so distinctively a Magyar.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One thing has surprised and rather disappointed us. Our
+          enthusiasm for Walter Scott does not apparently meet a response in the popular
+          breast. Allusions to Bannockburn and Drumclog bring down the house, but
+          enthusiasm for Scott was met with comparative silence. We discussed this matter
+          among ourselves, and rather wondered at it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The fact is, Scott belonged to a past, and not to the coming
+          age. He beautified and adorned that which is waxing old and passing away. He
+          loved and worshipped in his very soul institutions which the majority of the
+          common people have felt as a restraint and a burden. One might naturally get a
+          very different idea of a feudal castle by starving to death in the dungeon of
+          it, than by writing sonnets on it at a picturesque distance. Now, we in America
+          are so far removed from feudalism,&mdash;it has been a thing so much of mere
+          song and story with us, and our sympathies are so unchecked by any experience
+          of inconvenience or injustice in its consequences,&mdash;that we are at full
+          liberty to appreciate the picturesque of it, and sometimes, when we stand
+          overlooking our own beautiful scenery, to wish that we could see,</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"On yon bold brow, a lordly tower;</p>
+            <p class="l">In that soft vale, a lady's bower;</p>
+            <p class="l">In yonder meadow, far away,</p>
+            <p class="l">The turrets of a cloister gray;"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">when those who know by experience all the accompaniments of
+          these ornaments, would have quite another impression.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Nevertheless, since there are two worlds in man, the real and
+          the ideal, and both have indisputably a right to be, since God made the
+          faculties of both, we must feel that it is a benefaction to mankind, that Scott
+          was thus raised up as the link, in the ideal world, between the present and the
+          past. It is a loss to universal humanity to have the imprint of any phase of
+          human life and experience entirely blotted out. Scott's fictions are like this
+          beautiful ivy, with which all the ruins here are overgrown,&mdash;they not only
+          adorn, but, in many cases, they actually hold together, and prevent the
+          crumbling mass from falling into ruins.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To-morrow we are going to have a sail on the Clyde.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_22" name="toc_22"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter V</h2>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right">April 17.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          Sister</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To-day a large party of us started on a small steamer, to go
+          down the Clyde. It has been a very, very exciting day to us. It is so
+          stimulating to be where every name is a poem. For instance, we start at the
+          Broomielaw. This Broomielaw is a kind of wharf, or landing. Perhaps in old
+          times it was a haugh overgrown with broom, from whence it gets its name; this
+          is only my conjecture, however.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We have a small steamer quite crowded with people, our excursion
+          party being very numerous. In a few minutes after starting, somebody
+          says,&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"O, here's where the Kelvin enters." This starts up,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Let us haste to Kelvin Grove."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Then soon we are coming to Dumbarton Castle, and all the
+          tears we shed over Miss Porter's William Wallace seem to rise up like a
+          many-colored mist about it. The highest peak of the rock is still called
+          Wallace's Seat, and a part of the castle, Wallace's Tower; and in one of its
+          apartments a huge two-handed sword of the hero is still shown. I suppose, in
+          fact, Miss Porter's sentimental hero is about as much like the real William
+          Wallace as Daniel Boone is like Sir Charles Grandison. Many a young lady, who
+          has cried herself sick over Wallace in the novel, would have been in perfect
+          horror if she could have seen the real man. Still Dumbarton Castle is not a
+          whit the less picturesque for that.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now comes the Leven,&mdash;that identical Leven Water known in
+          song,&mdash;and on the right is Leven Grove.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"There," said somebody to me, "is the old mansion of the Earls
+          of Glencairn." Quick as thought, flashed through my mind that most eloquent of
+          Burns's poems, the Lament for James, Earl of Glencairn.</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The bridegroom may forget the bride</p>
+            <p class="l">Was made his wedded wife yestreen;</p>
+            <p class="l">The monarch may forget the crown</p>
+            <p class="l">That on his head an hour hath been;</p>
+            <p class="l">The mother may forget the child</p>
+            <p class="l">That smiles sae sweetly on her knee;</p>
+            <p class="l">But I'll remember thee, Glencairn,</p>
+            <p class="l">And a' that thou hast done for me."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">This mansion is now the seat of Graham of Gartmor.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now we are shown the remains of old Cardross Castle, where it
+          was said Robert Bruce breathed his last. And now we come near the beautiful
+          grounds of Roseneath, a green, velvet-like peninsula, stretching out into the
+          widening waters.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Peninsula!" said C&mdash;&mdash;. "Why, Walter Scott said it
+          was an island."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Certainly, he did declare most explicitly in the person of Mr.
+          Archibald, the Duke of Argyle's serving man, to Miss Dollie Dutton, when she
+          insisted on going to it by land, that Roseneath was an island. It shows that
+          the most accurate may be caught tripping sometimes.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Of course, our heads were full of David Deans, Jeanie, and
+          Effie, but we saw nothing of them. The Duke of Argyle's Italian mansion is the
+          most conspicuous object.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Hereupon there was considerable discussion on the present Duke
+          of Argyle among the company, from which we gathered that he stood high in favor
+          with the popular mind. One said that there had been an old prophecy, probably
+          uttered somewhere up in the Highlands, where such things are indigenous, that a
+          very good duke of Argyle was to arise having red hair, and that the present
+          duke had verified the prediction by uniting both requisites. They say that he
+          is quite a young man, with a small, slight figure, but with a great deal of
+          energy and acuteness of mind, and with the generous and noble traits which have
+          distinguished his house in former times. He was a pupil of Dr. Arnold, a member
+          of the National Scotch Kirk, and generally understood to be a serious and
+          religious man. He is one of the noblemen who have been willing to come forward
+          and make use of his education and talent in the way of popular lectures at
+          lyceums and athen&aelig;ums; as have also the Duke of Newcastle, the Earl of
+          Carlisle, and some others. So the world goes on. I must think, with all
+          deference to poetry, that it is much better to deliver a lyceum lecture than to
+          head a clan in battle; though I suppose, a century and a half ago, had the
+          thing been predicted to McCallummore's old harper, he would have been greatly
+          at a loss to comprehend the nature of the transaction.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Somewhere about here, I was presented, by his own request, to a
+          broad-shouldered Scotch farmer, who stood some six feet two, and who paid me
+          the compliment to say, that he had read my book, and that he would walk six
+          miles to see me any day. Such a flattering evidence of discriminating taste, of
+          course, disposed my heart towards him; but when I went up and put my hand into
+          his great prairie of a palm, I was as a grasshopper in my own eyes. I inquired
+          who he was, and was told he was one of the Duke of Argyle's farmers. I thought
+          to myself, if all the duke's farmers were of this pattern, that he might be
+          able to speak to the enemy in the gates to some purpose.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Roseneath occupies the ground between the Gare Loch and Loch
+          Long. The Gare Loch is the name given to a bay formed by the River Clyde, here
+          stretching itself out like a lake. Here we landed and went on shore, passing
+          along the sides of the loch, in the little village of Row.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we were walking along a carriage came up after us, in which
+          were two ladies. A bunch of primroses, thrown from this carriage, fell at my
+          feet. I picked it up, and then the carriage stopped, and the ladies requested
+          to know if I was Mrs. Stowe. On answering in the affirmative, they urged me so
+          earnestly to come under their roof and take some refreshment, that I began to
+          remember, what I had partly lost sight of, that I was very tired; so, while the
+          rest of the party walked on to get a distant view of Ben Lomond, Mr. S. and I
+          suffered ourselves to be taken into the carriage of our unknown friends, and
+          carried up to a charming little Italian villa, which stood, surrounded by
+          flower gardens and pleasure grounds, at the head of the loch. We were ushered
+          into a most comfortable parlor, where a long window, made of one clear unbroken
+          sheet of plate glass, gave a perfect view of the loch with all its woody
+          shores, with Roseneath Castle in the distance. My good hostesses literally
+          overwhelmed me with kindness; but as there was nothing I really needed so much
+          as a little quiet rest, they took me to a cozy bedroom, of which they gave me
+          the freedom, for the present. Does not every traveller know what a luxury it is
+          to shut one's eyes sometimes? The chamber, which is called "Peace," is now, as
+          it was in Christian's days, one of the best things that Charity or Piety could
+          offer to the pilgrim. Here I got a little brush from the wings of
+          dewy-feathered sleep.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After a while our party came back, and we had to be moving. My
+          kind friends expressed so much joy at having met me, that it was really almost
+          embarrassing. They told me that they, being confined to the house by ill
+          health, and one of them by lameness, had had no hope of ever seeing me, and
+          that this meeting seemed a wonderful gift of Providence. They bade me take
+          courage and hope, for they felt assured that the Lord would yet entirely make
+          an end of slavery through the world.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was concluded, after we left here, that, instead of returning
+          by the boat, we should take carriage and ride home along the banks of the
+          river. In our carriage were Mr. S. and myself, Dr. Robson and Lady Anderson.
+          About this time I commenced my first essay towards giving titles, and made, as
+          you may suppose, rather an odd piece of work of it, generally saying "Mrs."
+          first, and "Lady" afterwards, and then begging pardon. Lady Anderson laughed,
+          and said she would give me a general absolution. She is a truly genial, hearty
+          Scotch woman, and seemed to enter happily into the spirit of the hour.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we rode on we found that the news of our coming had spread
+          through the village. People came and stood in their doors, beckoning, bowing,
+          smiling, and waving their handkerchiefs, and the carriage was several times
+          stopped by persons who came to offer flowers. I remember, in particular, a
+          group of young girls brought to the carriage two of the most beautiful children
+          I ever saw, whose little hands literally deluged us with flowers.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At the village of Helensburgh we stopped a little while to call
+          upon Mrs. Bell, the wife of Mr. Bell, the inventor of the steamboat. His
+          invention in this country was about the same time of that of Fulton in America.
+          Mrs. Bell came to the carriage to speak to us. She is a venerable woman, far
+          advanced in years. They had prepared a lunch for us, and quite a number of
+          people had come together to meet us, but our friends said that there was not
+          time for us to stop.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We rode through several villages after this, and met quite warm
+          welcome. What pleased me was, that it was not mainly from the literary, nor the
+          rich, nor the great, but the plain, common people. The butcher came out of his
+          stall, and the baker from his shop, the miller, dusty with his flour, the
+          blooming, comely, young mother, with her baby in her arms, all smiling and
+          bowing with that hearty, intelligent, friendly look, as if they knew we should
+          be glad to see them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Once, while we stopped to change horses, I, for the sake of
+          seeing something more of the country, walked on. It seems the honest landlord
+          and his wife were greatly disappointed at this; however, they got into the
+          carriage and rode on to see me, and I shook hands with them with a right good
+          will.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We saw several of the clergymen, who came out to meet us, and I
+          remember stopping, just to be introduced to a most delightful family who came
+          out, one by one, gray-headed father and mother, with comely brothers and fair
+          sisters, looking all so kindly and home-like, that I would have been glad to
+          use the welcome that they gave me to their dwelling.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This day has been a strange phenomenon to me. In the first
+          place, I have seen in all these villages how universally the people read. I
+          have seen how capable they are of a generous excitement and enthusiasm, and how
+          much may be done by a work of fiction, so written as to enlist those sympathies
+          which are common to all classes. Certainly, a great deal may be effected in
+          this way, if God gives to any one the power, as I hope he will to many. The
+          power of fictitious writing, for good as well as evil, is a thing which ought
+          most seriously to be reflected on. No one can fail to see that in our day it is
+          becoming a very great agency.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We came home quite tired, as you may well suppose. You will not
+          be surprised that the next day I found myself more disposed to keep my bed than
+          to go out. I regretted it, because, being Sunday, I would like to have heard
+          some of the preachers of Glasgow. I was, however, glad of one quiet day to
+          recall my thoughts, for I had been whirling so rapidly from scene to scene,
+          that I needed time to consider where I was; especially as we were to go to
+          Edinburgh on the morrow.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Towards sunset Mr. S. and I strolled out entirely alone to
+          breathe a little fresh air. We walked along the banks of the Kelvin, quite down
+          to its junction with the Clyde. The Kelvin Grove of the ballad is all cut away,
+          and the Kelvin flows soberly between stone walls, with a footpath on each side,
+          like a stream that has learned to behave itself.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"There," said Mr. S., as we stood on the banks of the Clyde, now
+          lying flushed and tranquil in the light of the setting sun, "over there is
+          Ayrshire."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Ayrshire!" I said; "what, where Burns lived?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Yes, there is his cottage, far down to the south, and out of
+          sight, of course; and there are the bonny banks of Ayr."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It seemed as if the evening air brought a kind of sigh with it.
+          Poor Burns! how inseparably he has woven himself with the warp and woof of
+          every Scottish association!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We saw a great many children of the poor out playing&mdash;rosy,
+          fine little urchins, worth, any one of them, a dozen bleached, hothouse
+          flowers. We stopped to hear them talk, and it was amusing to hear the Scotch of
+          Walter Scott and Burns shouted out with such a right good will. We were as much
+          struck by it as an honest Yankee was in Paris by the proficiency of the
+          children in speaking French.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next day we bade farewell to Glasgow, overwhelmed with
+          kindness to the last, and only oppressed by the thought, how little that was
+          satisfactory we were able to give in return.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Again in the railroad car on our way to Edinburgh. A pleasant
+          two hours' trip is this from Glasgow to Edinburgh. When the cars stopped at
+          Linlithgow station, the name started us as out of a dream.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There, sure enough, before our eyes, on a gentle eminence stood
+          the mouldering ruins of which Scott has sung:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Of all the palaces so fair,</p>
+            <p class="l">Built for the royal dwelling,</p>
+            <p class="l">In Scotland, far beyond compare</p>
+            <p class="l">Linlithgow is excelling;</p>
+            <p class="l">And in its park in genial June,</p>
+            <p class="l">How sweet the merry linnet's tune,</p>
+            <p class="l">How blithe the blackbird's lay!</p>
+            <p class="l">The wild buck's bells from thorny brake.</p>
+            <p class="l">The coot dives merry on the lake,&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="l">The saddest heart might pleasure take,</p>
+            <p class="l">To see a scene so gay."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Here was born that woman whose beauty and whose name are
+          set in the strong, rough Scotch heart, as a diamond in granite. Poor Mary! When
+          her father, who lay on his death bed at that time in Falkland, was told of her
+          birth, he answered, "Is it so? Then God's will be done! It [the kingdom] came
+          with a lass, and it will go with a lass!" With these words he turned his face
+          to the wall, and died of a broken heart. Certainly, some people appear to be
+          born under an evil destiny.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image12.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here, too, in Linlithgow church, tradition says that James IV.
+          was warned, by a strange apparition, against that expedition to England which
+          cost him his life. Scott has worked this incident up into a beautiful
+          description, in the fourth canto of Marmion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The castle has a very sad and romantic appearance, standing
+          there all alone as it does, looking down into the quiet lake. It is said that
+          the internal architectural decorations are exceedingly rich and beautiful, and
+          a resemblance has been traced between its style of ornament and that of
+          Heidelberg Castle, which has been accounted for by the fact that the Princess
+          Elizabeth, who was the sovereign lady of Heidelberg, spent many of the earlier
+          years of her life in this place.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Not far from here we caught a glimpse of the ruins of Niddrie
+          Castle, where Mary spent the first night after her escape from Lochleven.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Avon here at Linlithgow is spanned by a viaduct, which is a
+          fine work of art. It has twenty-five arches, which are from seventy to eighty
+          feet high and fifty wide.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As the cars neared Edinburgh we all exclaimed at its beauty, so
+          worthily commemorated by Scott:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Such dusky grandeur clothes the height,</p>
+            <p class="l">Where the huge castle holds its state,</p>
+            <p class="l">And all the steeps slope down,</p>
+            <p class="l">Whose ridgy back heaves to the sky,</p>
+            <p class="l">Piled deep and massy, close and high,</p>
+            <p class="l">Mine own romantic town!"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Edinburgh has had an effect on the literary history of the
+          world for the last fifty years, that cannot be forgotten by any one approaching
+          her. The air seemed to be full of spirits of those who, no longer living, have
+          woven a part of the thread of our existence. I do not know that the shortness
+          of human life ever so oppressed me as it did on coming near to the city.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At the station house the cars stopped amid a crowd of people,
+          who had assembled to meet us. The lord provost met us at the door of the car,
+          and presented us to the magistracy of the city, and the committees of the
+          Edinburgh antislavery societies. The drab dresses and pure white bonnets of
+          many Friends were conspicuous among the dense moving crowd, as white doves seen
+          against a dark cloud. Mr. S. and myself, and our future hostess, Mrs. Wigham,
+          entered the carriage with the lord provost, and away we drove, the crowd
+          following with their shouts and cheers. I was inexpressibly touched and
+          affected by this. While we were passing the monument of Scott, I felt an
+          oppressive melancholy. What a moment life seems in the presence of the noble
+          dead! What a momentary thing is art, in all its beauty! Where are all those
+          great souls that have created such an atmosphere of light about Edinburgh? and
+          how little a space was given them to live and to enjoy!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We drove all over Edinburgh, up to the castle, to the
+          university, to Holyrood, to the hospitals, and through many of the principal
+          streets, amid shouts, and smiles, and greetings. Some boys amused me very much
+          by their pertinacious attempts to keep up with the carriage.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Heck," says one of them, "that's <em>her</em>; see the
+          <em>courls</em>."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The various engravers, who have amused themselves by
+          diversifying my face for the public, having all, with great unanimity, agreed
+          in giving prominence to this point, I suppose the urchins thought they were on
+          safe ground there. I certainly think I answered one good purpose that day, and
+          that is, of giving the much oppressed and calumniated class, called boys, an
+          opportunity to develop all the noise that was in them&mdash;a thing for which I
+          think they must bless me in their remembrances.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At last the carriage drove into a deep gravelled yard, and we
+          alighted at a porch covered with green ivy, and found ourselves once more at
+          home.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_23" name="toc_23"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter VI.</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          Sister</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">You may spare your anxieties about me, for I do assure you, that
+          if I were an old Sevres China jar, I could not have more careful handling than
+          I do. Every body is considerate; a great deal to say, when there appears to be
+          so much excitement. Every body seems to understand how good for nothing I am;
+          and yet, with all this consideration, I have been obliged to keep my room and
+          bed for a good part of the time. One agreeable feature of the matter is, it
+          gave me an opportunity to make the acquaintance of the celebrated homoeopathic
+          physician, Dr. Henderson, in whose experiments and experience I had taken some
+          interest while in America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Of the multitudes who have called, I have seen scarcely any.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mrs. W., with whom I am staying, is a most thoughtful nurse.
+          They are Friends, and nothing can be more a pattern of rational home enjoyment,
+          without ostentation and without parade, than a Quaker family.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Though they reject every thing in arrangement which savors of
+          ostentation and worldly show, yet their homes are exquisite in point of
+          comfort. They make great use of flowers and natural specimens in adorning their
+          apartments, and also indulge to a chaste and moderate extent in engravings and
+          works of art. So far as I have observed, they are all "tee-totalers;" giving,
+          in this respect, the whole benefit of their example to the temperance
+          cause.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To-morrow evening is to be the great tea party here. How in the
+          world I am ever to live through it, I don't know.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The amount of letters we found waiting for us here in Edinburgh
+          was, if possible, more appalling than in Glasgow. Among those from persons whom
+          you would be interested in hearing of, I may mention, a very kind and beautiful
+          one from the Duchess of Sutherland, and one also from the Earl of Carlisle,
+          both desiring to make appointments for meeting us as soon as we come to London.
+          Also a very kind and interesting note from the Rev. Mr. Kingsley and lady. I
+          look forward with a great deal of interest to passing a little time with them
+          in their rectory. Letters also from Mr. Binney and Mr. Sherman, two of the
+          leading Congregational clergymen of London. The latter officiates at Surrey
+          Chapel, which was established by Rowland Hill. Both contain invitations to us
+          to visit them in London.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to all engagements, I am in a state of happy acquiescence,
+          having resigned myself, as a very tame lion, into the hands of my keepers.
+          Whenever the time comes for me to do any thing, I try to behave as well as I
+          can, which, as Dr. Young says, is all that an angel could do in the same
+          circumstances.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to these letters, many of them are mere outbursts of feeling;
+          yet they are interesting as showing the state of the public mind. Many of them
+          are on kindred topics of moral reform, in which they seem to have an intuitive
+          sense that we should be interested. I am not, of course, able to answer them
+          all, but C&mdash;&mdash; does, and it takes a good part of every day. One was
+          from a shoemaker's wife in one of the islands, with a copy of very fair verses.
+          Many have come accompanying little keepsakes and gifts. It seems to me rather
+          touching and sad, that people should want to give me things, when I am not able
+          to give an interview, or even a note, in return. C&mdash;&mdash; wrote from six
+          to twelve o'clock, steadily, answering letters.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">April 26. Last night came off the <em>soir&eacute;e</em>. The
+          hall was handsomely decorated with flags in front. We went with the lord
+          provost in his carriage. The getting in to the hall is quite an affair, I
+          assure you, the doorway is blocked up by such a dense crowd; yet there is
+          something very touching about these crowds. They open very gently and quietly,
+          and they do not look at you with a rude stare, but with faces full of feeling
+          and intelligence. I have seen some looks that were really beautiful; they go to
+          my heart. The common people appear as if they knew that our hearts were with
+          them. How else should it be, as Christians of America?&mdash;a country which,
+          but for one fault, all the world has reason to love.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went up, as before, into a dressing room, where I was
+          presented to many gentlemen and ladies. When we go in, the cheering, clapping,
+          and stamping at first strikes one with a strange sensation; but then every body
+          looks so heartily pleased and delighted, and there is such an all-pervading
+          atmosphere of geniality and sympathy, as makes one in a few moments feel quite
+          at home. After all I consider that these cheers and applauses, are Scotland's
+          voice to America, a recognition of the brotherhood of the countries.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were arranged at this meeting much as in Glasgow. The lord
+          provost presided; and in the gallery with us were distinguished men from the
+          magistracy, the university, and the ministry, with their wives, besides the
+          members of the antislavery societies. The lord provost, I am told, has been
+          particularly efficient in all benevolent operations, especially those for the
+          education of the poorer classes. He is also a zealous supporter of the
+          temperance cause.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Among the speakers, I was especially interested in Dr. Guthrie,
+          who seems to be also a particular favorite of the public. He is a tall, thin
+          man, with a kind of quaintness in his mode of expressing himself, which
+          sometimes gives an air of drollery to his speaking. He is a minister of the
+          Free Church, and has more particularly distinguished himself by his exertions
+          in behalf of the poorer classes.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One passage in his speech I will quote, for I was quite amused
+          with it. It was in allusion to the retorts which had been made in Mrs. Tyler's
+          letter to the ladies of England, on the defects in the old country.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I do not deny," he said, "that there are defects in our
+          country. What I say of them is this&mdash;that they are incidental very much to
+          an old country like our own. Dr. Simpson knows very well, and so does every
+          medical man, that when a man gets old he gets very infirm, his blood vessels
+          get ossified, and so on; but I shall not enter into that part of the subject.
+          What is true of an old country is true of old men, and old women, too. I am
+          very much disposed to say of this young nation of America, that their teasing
+          us with our defects might just get the answer which a worthy member of the
+          church of Scotland gave to his son, who was so dissatisfied with the defects in
+          the church, that he was determined to go over to a younger communion. 'Ah,
+          Sandy, Sandy, man, when your lum reeks as lang as ours, it will, may be, need
+          sweeping too.'<a href="#note_10"><span class="footnoteref">10</span></a> Now, I
+          do not deny that we need sweeping; every body knows that I have been singing
+          out about sweeping for the last five years. Let me tell my good friends in
+          Edinburgh, and in the country, that the sooner you sweep the better; for the
+          chimney may catch fire, and reduce your noble fabric to ashes.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"They told us in that letter about the poor needlewomen, that
+          had to work sixteen hours a day. ''Tis true, and pity 'tis 'tis true.' But does
+          the law compel them to work sixteen hours a day? I would like to ask the writer
+          of the letter. Are they bound down to their garrets and cellars for sixteen
+          hours a day? May they not go where they like, and ask better wages and better
+          work? Can the slave do that? Do they tell us of our ragged children? I know
+          something about ragged children. But are our ragged children condemned to the
+          street? If I, or the lord provost, or any other benevolent man, should take one
+          of them from the street and bring it to the school, dare the
+          policeman&mdash;miscalled officer of justice&mdash;put his foot across the door
+          to drag it out again to the street? Nobody means to defend our defects; does
+          any man attempt to defend them? Were not these noble ladies and excellent
+          women, titled and untitled, among the very first to seek to redress them?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I wish I could give you the strong, broad Scotch accent.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The national penny offering, consisting of a thousand golden
+          sovereigns on a magnificent silver salver, stood conspicuously in view of the
+          audience. It has been an unsolicited offering, given in the smallest sums,
+          often from the extreme poverty of the giver. The committee who collected it in
+          Edinburgh and Glasgow bore witness to the willingness with which the very
+          poorest contributed the offering of their sympathy. In one cottage they found a
+          blind woman, and said, "Here, at least, is one who will feel no interest, as
+          she cannot have read the book."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Indeed," said the old lady, "if I cannot read, my son has read
+          it to me, and I've got my penny saved to give."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is to my mind extremely touching to see how the poor, in
+          their poverty, can be moved to a generosity surpassing that of the rich. Nor do
+          I mourn that they took it from their slender store, because I know that a penny
+          given from a kindly impulse is a greater comfort and blessing to the poorest
+          giver than even a penny received.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As in the case of the other meeting, we came out long before the
+          speeches were ended. Well, of course, I did not sleep any all night. The next
+          day I felt quite miserable. Mrs. W. went with Mr. S. and myself for a quiet
+          drive in her carriage.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was a beautiful, sunny day that we drove out to Craigmiller
+          Castle, formerly one of the royal residences. It was here that Mary retreated
+          after the murder of Rizzio, and where, the chronicler says, she was often heard
+          in those days wishing that she were in her grave. It seems so strange to see it
+          standing there all alone, in the midst of grassy fields, so silent, and cold,
+          and solitary. I got out of the carriage and walked about it. The short, green
+          grass was gemmed with daisies, and sheep were peacefully feeding and resting,
+          where was once all the life and bustle of a court.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We had no one to open the inside of the castle for us, where
+          there are still some tolerably preserved rooms, but we strolled listlessly
+          about, looking through the old arches, and peeping through slits and loopholes
+          into the interior.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The last verse of Queen Mary's lamentation seemed to be sighing
+          in the air:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"O, soon for me shall simmer's suns</p>
+            <p class="l">Nae mair light up the morn;</p>
+            <p class="l">Nae mair for me the autumn wind</p>
+            <p class="l">Wave o'er the yellow corn.</p>
+            <p class="l">But in the narrow house of death</p>
+            <p class="l">Let winter round me rave,</p>
+            <p class="l">And the next flowers that deck the spring</p>
+            <p class="l">Bloom on my peaceful grave."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Only yesterday, it seemed, since that poor heart was
+          yearning and struggling, caught in the toils of this sorrowful life. How many
+          times she looked on this landscape through sad eyes! I suppose just such little
+          daisies grew here in the grass then, and perhaps she stooped and picked them,
+          wishing, just as I do, that the pink did not grow on the under side of them,
+          where it does not show. Do you know that this little daisy is the
+          <em>gowan</em> of Scotch poetry? So I was told by a "charming young Jessie" in
+          Glasgow, one day when I was riding out there.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The view from Craigmiller is beautiful&mdash;Auld Reekie,
+          Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Crags, and far down the Frith of Forth, where we can
+          just dimly see the Bass Hock, celebrated as a prison, where the Covenanters
+          were immured.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was this fortress that Habakkuk Mucklewrath speaks of in his
+          ravings, when he says, "Am not I Habakkuk Mucklewrath, whose name is changed to
+          Magor-Missabib, because I am made a terror unto myself, and unto all that are
+          around me? I heard it: when did I hear it? Was it not in the tower of the Bass,
+          that overhangeth the wide, wild sea? and it howled in the winds, and it roared
+          in the billows, and it screamed, and it whistled, and it clanged, with the
+          screams, and the clang, and the whistle of the sea birds, as they floated, and
+          flew, and dropped, and dived, on the bosom of the waters."</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image13.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">These Salisbury Crags, which overlook Edinburgh, have a very
+          peculiar outline; they resemble an immense elephant crouching down. We passed
+          Mushats Cairn, where Jeanie Deans met Robertson; and saw Liberton, where Reuben
+          Butler was a schoolmaster. Nobody doubts, I hope, the historical accuracy of
+          these points.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Thursday, 21st. We took cars for Aberdeen. The appropriation of
+          old historical names to railroad stations often reminds me of Hood's whimsical
+          lines on a possible railroad in the Holy Land. Think of having Bannockburn
+          shouted by the station master, as the train runs whistling up to a small
+          station house. Nothing to be seen there but broad, silent meadows, through
+          which the burn wimples its way. Here was the very Marathon of Scotland. I
+          suppose we know more about it from the "Scots wha ha' wi' Wallace bled," than
+          we do from history; yet the real scene, as narrated by the historian, has a
+          moral grandeur in it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The chronicler tells us, that when on this occasion the Scots
+          formed their line of battle, and a venerable abbot passed along, holding up the
+          cross before them, the whole army fell upon their knees.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"These Scots will not fight," said Edward, who was reconnoitring
+          at a distance. "See! they are all on their knees now to beg for mercy."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"They kneel," said a lord who stood by, "but it is to God alone;
+          trust me, those men will win or die."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The bold lyric of Burns is but an inspired kind of version of
+          the real address which Bruce is said to have made to his followers; and whoever
+          reads it will see that its power lies not in appeal to brute force, but to the
+          highest elements of our nature, the love of justice, the sense of honor, and to
+          disinterestedness, self-sacrifice, courage unto death.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These things will live and form high and imperishable elements
+          of our nature, when mankind have learned to develop them in other spheres than
+          that of physical force. Burns's lyric, therefore, has in it an element which
+          may rouse the heart to noble endurance and devotion, even when the world shall
+          learn war no more.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We passed through the town of Stirling, whose castle,
+          magnificently seated on a rocky throne, looks right worthy to have been the
+          seat of Scotland's court, as it was for many years. It brought to our minds all
+          the last scenes of the Lady of the Lake, which are laid here with a minuteness
+          of local description and allusion characteristic of Scott.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">According to our guide book, one might find there the visible
+          counterpart of every thing which he has woven into his beautiful
+          fiction&mdash;"the Lady's Rock, which rang to the applause of the multitude;"
+          "the Franciscan steeple, which pealed the merry festival;" "the sad and fatal
+          mound," apostrophized by Douglas,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"That oft has heard the death-axe sound</p>
+            <p class="l">As on the noblest of the land,</p>
+            <p class="l">Fell the stern headsman's bloody hand;"&mdash;</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">the room in the castle, where "a Douglas by his sovereign
+          bled;" and not far off the ruins of Cambuskenneth Abbey. One could not but
+          think of the old days Scott has described.</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The castle gates were open flung,</p>
+            <p class="l">The quivering drawbridge rocked and rung,</p>
+            <p class="l">And echoed loud the flinty street</p>
+            <p class="l">Beneath the coursers' clattering feet,</p>
+            <p class="l">As slowly down the steep descent</p>
+            <p class="l">Fair Scotland's king and nobles went,</p>
+            <p class="l">While all along the crowded way</p>
+            <p class="l">Was jubilee and loud huzza."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The place has been long deserted as a palace; but it is one
+          of the four fortresses, which, by the articles of union between Scotland and
+          England, are always to be kept in repair.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We passed by the town of Perth, the scene of the "Fair Maid's"
+          adventures. We had received an invitation to visit it, but for want of time
+          were obliged to defer it till our return to Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Somewhere along here Mr. S. was quite excited by our proximity
+          to Scone, the old crowning-place of the Scottish kings; however, the old castle
+          is entirely demolished, and superseded by a modern mansion, the seat of the
+          Earl of Mansfield.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Still farther on, surrounded by dark and solemn woods, stands
+          Glamis Castle, the scene of the tragedy in Macbeth. We could see but a glimpse
+          of it from the road, but the very sound of the name was enough to stimulate our
+          imagination. It is still an inhabited dwelling, though much to the regret of
+          antiquarians and lovers of the picturesque, the characteristic outworks and
+          defences of the feudal ages, which surrounded it, have been levelled, and
+          velvet lawns and gravel walks carried to the very door. Scott, who passed a
+          night there in 1793, while it was yet in its pristine condition, comments on
+          the change mournfully, as undoubtedly a true lover of the past would. Albeit
+          the grass plats and the gravel walks, to the eye of sense, are undoubtedly much
+          more agreeable and convenient. Scott says in his Demonology, that he never came
+          any where near to being overcome with a superstitious feeling, except twice in
+          his life, and one was on the night when he slept in Glamis Castle. The poetical
+          and the practical elements in Scott's mind ran together, side by side, without
+          mixing, as evidently as the waters of the Alleghany and Monongahela at
+          Pittsburg. Scarcely ever a man had so much relish for the supernatural, and so
+          little faith in it. One must confess, however, that the most sceptical might
+          have been overcome at Glamis Castle, for its appearance, by all accounts, is
+          weird and strange, and ghostly enough to start the dullest imagination.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On this occasion Scott says, "After a very hospitable reception
+          from the late Peter Proctor, seneschal of the castle, I was conducted to my
+          apartment in a distant part of the building. I must own, that when I heard door
+          after door shut, after my conductor had retired, I began to consider myself as
+          too far from the living, and somewhat too near the dead. We had passed through
+          what is called 'the King's Room,' a vaulted apartment, garnished with stags'
+          antlers and similar trophies of the chase, and said by tradition to be the spot
+          of Malcolm's murder, and I had an idea of the vicinity of the castle chapel. In
+          spite of the truth of history, the whole night scene in Macbeth's castle rushed
+          at once upon my mind, and struck my imagination more forcibly than even when I
+          have seen its terrors represented by the late John Kemble and his inimitable
+          sister. In a word, I experienced sensations which, though not remarkable either
+          for timidity or superstition, did not fail to affect me to the point of being
+          disagreeable, while they were mingled at the same time with a strange and
+          indescribable kind of pleasure."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Externally, the building is quaint and singular enough; tall and
+          gaunt, crested with innumerable little pepper box turrets and conical towers,
+          like an old French chateau.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Besides the tragedy of Macbeth, another story of still more
+          melancholy interest is connected with it, which a pen like that of Hawthorne,
+          might work up with gloomy power.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In 1537 the young and beautiful Lady Glamis of this place was
+          actually tried and executed for witchcraft. Only think, now! what capabilities
+          in this old castle, with its gloomy pine shades, quaint architecture, and weird
+          associations, with this bit of historic verity to start upon.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image14.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">Walter Scott says, there is in the castle a secret chamber; the
+          entrance to which, by the law of the family, can be known only to three persons
+          at once&mdash;the lord of the castle, his heir apparent, and any third person
+          whom they might choose to take into their confidence. See, now, the materials
+          which the past gives to the novelist or poet in these old countries. These
+          ancient castles are standing romances, made to the author's hands. The castle
+          started a talk upon Shakspeare, and how much of the tragedy he made up, and how
+          much he found ready to his hand in tradition and history. It seems the story is
+          all told in Holingshed's Chronicles; but his fertile mind has added some of the
+          most thrilling touches, such as the sleep walking of Lady Macbeth. It always
+          seemed to me that this tragedy had more of the melancholy majesty and power of
+          the Greek than any thing modern. The striking difference is, that while fate
+          was the radical element of those, free will is not less distinctly the basis of
+          this. Strangely enough, while it commences with a supernatural oracle, there is
+          not a trace of fatalism in it; but through all, a clear, distinct recognition
+          of moral responsibility, of the power to resist evil, and the guilt of yielding
+          to it. The theology of Shakspeare is as remarkable as his poetry. A strong and
+          clear sense of man's moral responsibility and free agency, and of certain
+          future retribution, runs through all his plays.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I enjoyed this ride to Aberdeen more than any thing we had seen
+          yet, the country is so wild and singular. In the afternoon we came in sight of
+          the German Ocean. The free, bracing air from the sea, and the thought that it
+          actually <em>was</em> the German Ocean, and that over the other side was
+          Norway, within a day's sail of us, gave it a strange, romantic charm.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Suppose we just run over to Norway," said one of us; and then
+          came the idea, what we should do if we got over there, seeing none of us
+          understood Norse.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The whole coast along here is wild and rock-bound; occasionally
+          long points jut into the sea; the blue waves sparkle and dash against them in
+          little jets of foam, and the sea birds dive and scream around them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On one of these points, near the town of Stonehaven, are still
+          seen the ruins of Dunottar Castle, bare and desolate, surrounded on all sides
+          by the restless, moaning waves; a place justly held accursed as the scene of
+          cruelties to the Covenanters, so appalling and brutal as to make the blood boil
+          in the recital, even in this late day.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">During the reigns of Charles and James, sovereigns whom Macaulay
+          justly designates as Belial and Moloch, this castle was the state prison for
+          confining this noble people. In the reign of James, one hundred and sixty-seven
+          prisoners, men, women, and children, for refusing the oath of supremacy, were
+          arrested at their firesides: herded together like cattle; driven at the point
+          of the bayonet, amid the gibes, jeers, and scoffs of soldiers, up to this
+          dreary place, and thrust promiscuously into a dark vault in this castle; almost
+          smothered in filth and mire; a prey to pestilent disease, and to every
+          malignity which brutality could inflict, they died here unpitied. A few
+          escaping down the rocks were recaptured, and subjected to shocking
+          tortures.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A moss-grown gravestone, in the parish churchyard of Dunottar,
+          shows the last resting-place of these sufferers.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Walter Scott, who visited this place, says, "The peasantry
+          continue to attach to the tombs of these victims an honor which they do not
+          render to more splendid mausoleums; and when they point them out to their sons,
+          and narrate the fate of the sufferers, usually conclude by exhorting them to be
+          ready, should the times call for it, to resist to the death in the cause of
+          civil and religious liberty, like their brave forefathers."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is also related by Gilfillan, that a minister from this
+          vicinity, having once lost his way in travelling through a distant part of
+          Scotland, vainly solicited the services of a guide for some time, all being
+          engaged in peat-cutting; at last one of the farmers, some of whose ancestors
+          had been included among the sufferers, discovering that he came from this
+          vicinity, had seen the gravestones, and could repeat the inscriptions, was
+          willing to give up half a day's work to guide him on his way.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is well that such spots should be venerated as sacred shrines
+          among the descendants of the Covenanters, to whom Scotland owes what she is,
+          and all she may become.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was here that Scott first became acquainted with Robert
+          Paterson, the original of Old Mortality.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Leaving Stonehaven we passed, on a rising ground a little to our
+          left, the house of the celebrated Barclay of Ury. It remains very much in its
+          ancient condition, surrounded by a low stone wall, like the old fortified
+          houses of Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Barclay of Ury was an old and distinguished soldier, who had
+          fought under Gustavus Adolphus in Germany, and one of the earliest converts to
+          the principles of the Friends in Scotland. As a Quaker, he became an object of
+          hatred and abuse at the hands of the magistracy and populace; but he endured
+          all these insults and injuries with the greatest patience and nobleness of
+          soul.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I find more satisfaction," he said, "as well as honor, in being
+          thus insulted for my religious principles, than when, a few years ago, it was
+          usual for the magistrates, as I passed the city of Aberdeen, to meet me on the
+          road and conduct me to public entertainment in their hall, and then escort me
+          out again, to gain my favor."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Whittier has celebrated this incident in his beautiful ballad,
+          called "Barclay of Ury." The son of this Barclay was the author of that Apology
+          which bears his name, and is still a standard work among the Friends. The
+          estate is still possessed by his descendants.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A little farther along towards Aberdeen, Mr. S. seemed to amuse
+          himself very much with the idea, that we were coming near to Dugald Dalgetty's
+          estate of Drumthwacket, an historical remembrance which I take to be somewhat
+          apocryphal.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was towards the close of the afternoon that we found
+          ourselves crossing the Dee, in view of Aberdeen. My spirits were wonderfully
+          elated: the grand sea scenery and fine bracing air; the noble, distant view of
+          the city, rising with its harbor and shipping, all filled me with delight.
+          Besides which the Dee had been enchanted for me from my childhood, by a wild
+          old ballad which I used to hear sung to a Scottish tune, equally wild and
+          pathetic. I repeated it to C&mdash;&mdash;, and will now to you.</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The moon had climbed the highest hill</p>
+            <p class="l">That rises o'er the banks of Dee,</p>
+            <p class="l">And from her farthest summit poured</p>
+            <p class="l">Her silver light o'er tower and tree,&mdash;</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">When Mary laid her down to sleep,</p>
+            <p class="l">Her thoughts on Sandy far at sea,</p>
+            <p class="l">And soft and low a voice she heard,</p>
+            <p class="l">Saying, 'Mary, weep no more for me.'</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">She from her pillow gently raised</p>
+            <p class="l">Her head, to see who there might be;</p>
+            <p class="l">She saw young Sandy shivering stand,</p>
+            <p class="l">With pallid cheek and hollow ee.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">'O Mary dear, cold is my clay;</p>
+            <p class="l">It lies beneath the stormy sea;</p>
+            <p class="l">The storm, is past, and I'm at rest;</p>
+            <p class="l">So, Mary, weep no more for me.'</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">Loud crew the cock; the vision fled;</p>
+            <p class="l">No more young Sandy could she see;</p>
+            <p class="l">But soft a parting whisper said,</p>
+            <p class="l">'Sweet Mary, weep no more for me.'"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I never saw these lines in print any where; I never knew
+          who wrote them; I had only heard them sung at the fireside when a child, to a
+          tune as dreamy and sweet as themselves; but they rose upon me like an
+          enchantment, as I crossed the Dee, in view of that very German Ocean, famed for
+          its storms and shipwrecks.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In this propitious state, disposed to be pleased with every
+          thing, our hearts responded warmly to the greetings of the many friends who
+          were waiting for us at the station house.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The lord provost received us into his carriage, and as we drove
+          along, pointed out to us the various objects of interest in the beautiful town.
+          Among other things, a fine old bridge across the Dee attracted our particular
+          attention.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were conducted to the house of Mr. Cruikshank, a Friend, and
+          found waiting for us there the thoughtful hospitality which we had ever
+          experienced in all our stopping-places. A snug little quiet supper was laid out
+          upon the table, of which we partook in haste, as we were informed that the
+          assembly at the hall were waiting to receive us.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There arrived, we found the hall crowded, and with difficulty
+          made our way to the platform. Whether owing to the stimulating effect of the
+          air from the ocean, or to the comparatively social aspect of the scene, or
+          perhaps to both, certain it is, that we enjoyed the meeting with great zest. I
+          was surrounded on the stage with blooming young ladies, one of whom put into my
+          hands a beautiful bouquet, some flowers of which I have now dried in my album.
+          The refreshment tables were adorned with some exquisite wax flowers, the work,
+          as I was afterwards told, of a young lady in the place. One of the designs
+          especially interested me. It was a group of water lilies resting on a mirror,
+          which gave them the appearance of growing in the water.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We had some very animated speaking, in which the speakers
+          contrived to blend enthusiastic admiration and love for America with
+          detestation of slavery.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All the afternoon the beautiful coast had reminded me of the
+          State of Maine, and the genius of the meeting confirmed the association. They
+          seemed to me to be a plain, genial, strong, warm-hearted people, like those of
+          Maine.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One of the speakers concluded his address by saying that John
+          Bull and Brother Jonathan, with Paddy and Sandy Scott, should they clasp hands
+          together, might stand against the world; which sentiment was responded to with
+          thunders of applause.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is because America, like Scotland, has stood for right
+          against oppression, that the Scotch love and sympathize with her. For this
+          reason do they feel it as something taken from the strength of a common cause,
+          when America sides with injustice and oppression. The children of the Covenant
+          and the children of the Puritans are of one blood.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">They presented an offering in a beautiful embroidered purse, and
+          after much shaking of hands we went home, and sat down to the supper table, for
+          a little more chat, before going to bed. The next morning,&mdash;as we had only
+          till noon to stay in Aberdeen,&mdash;our friends, the lord provost, and Mr.
+          Leslie, the architect, came immediately after breakfast to show us the
+          place.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The town of Aberdeen is a very fine one, and owes much of its
+          beauty to the light-colored granite of which most of the houses are built. It
+          has broad, clean, beautiful streets, and many very curious and interesting
+          public buildings. The town exhibits that union of the hoary past with the
+          bustling present which is characteristic of the old world.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It has two parts, the old and the new, as unlike as L'Allegro
+          and Penseroso&mdash;the new, clean, and modern; the old, mossy and dreamy. The
+          old town is called Alton, and has venerable houses, standing, many of them, in
+          ancient gardens. And here rises the peculiar, old, gray cathedral. These Scotch
+          cathedrals have a sort of stubbed appearance, and look like the expression in
+          stone of defiant, invincible resolution. This is of primitive granite, in the
+          same heavy, massive style as the cathedral of Glasgow, but having strong
+          individualities of its own.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Whoever located the ecclesiastical buildings of England and
+          Scotland certainly had an exquisite perception of natural scenery; for one
+          notices that they are almost invariably placed on just that point of the
+          landscape, where the poet or the artist would say they should be. These
+          cathedrals, though all having a general similarity of design, seem, each one,
+          to have its own personality, as much as a human being. Looking at nineteen of
+          them is no compensation to you for omitting the twentieth; there will certainly
+          be something new and peculiar in that.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This Aberdeen Cathedral, or Cathedral of St. Machar, is situated
+          on the banks of the River Don; one of those beautiful amber-brown rivers that
+          color the stones and pebbles at the bottom with a yellow light, such as one
+          sees in ancient pictures. Old trees wave and rustle around, and the building
+          itself, though a part of it has fallen into ruins, has, in many parts, a
+          wonderful clearness and sharpness of outline. I cannot describe these things to
+          you; architectural terms convey no picture to the mind. I can only tell you of
+          the character and impression it bears&mdash;a character of strong, unflinching
+          endurance, appropriately reminding one of the Scotch people, whom Walter Scott
+          compares to the native sycamore of their hills, "which scorns to be biased in
+          its mode of growth, even by the influence of the prevailing wind, but shooting
+          its branches with equal boldness in every direction, shows no weather side to
+          the storm, and may be broken, but can never be bended."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One reason for the sharpness and distinctness of the
+          architectural preservation of this cathedral is probably that closeness of
+          texture for which Aberdeen granite is remarkable. It bears marks of the hand of
+          violence in many parts. The images of saints and bishops, which lie on their
+          backs with clasped hands, seem to have been wofully maltreated and despoiled,
+          in the fervor of those days, when people fondly thought that breaking down
+          carved work was getting rid of superstition. These granite saints and bishops,
+          with their mutilated fingers and broken noses, seem to be bearing a silent,
+          melancholy witness against that disposition in human nature, which, instead of
+          making clean the cup and platter, breaks them altogether.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The roof of the cathedral is a splendid specimen of carving in
+          black oak, wrought in panels, with leaves and inscriptions in ancient text. The
+          church could once boast in other parts (so says an architectural work) a
+          profusion of carved woodwork of the same character, which must have greatly
+          relieved the massive plainness of the interior.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In 1649, the parish minister attacked the "High Altar," a piece
+          of the most splendid workmanship of any thing of the kind in Europe, and which
+          had to that time remained inviolate; perhaps from the insensible influence of
+          its beauty. It is said that the carpenter employed for the purpose was so
+          struck with the noble workmanship, that he refused to touch it till the
+          minister took the hatchet from his hand and gave the first blow.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These men did not consider that "the leprosy lies deep within,"
+          and that when human nature is denied beautiful idols, it will go after ugly
+          ones. There has been just as unspiritual a resting in coarse, bare, and
+          disagreeable adjuncts of religion, as in beautiful and agreeable ones; men have
+          worshipped Juggernaut as pertinaciously as they have Venus or the Graces; so
+          that the good divine might better have aimed a sermon at the heart than an axe
+          at the altar.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We lingered a long time around here, and could scarcely tear
+          ourselves away. We paced up and down under the old trees, looking off on the
+          waters of the Don, listening to the waving branches, and falling into a dreamy
+          state of mind, thought what if it were six hundred years ago! and we were pious
+          simple hearted old abbots! What a fine place that would be to walk up and down
+          at eventide or on a Sabbath morning, reciting the penitential psalms, or
+          reading St. Augustine!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I cannot get over the feeling, that the souls of the dead do
+          somehow connect themselves with the places of their former habitation, and that
+          the hush and thrill of spirit, which we feel in them, may be owing to the
+          overshadowing presence of the invisible. St. Paul says, "We are compassed about
+          with a great cloud of witnesses." How can they be witnesses, if they cannot see
+          and be cognizant?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We left the place by a winding walk, to go to the famous bridge
+          of Balgounie, another dream-land affair, not far from here. It is a single gray
+          stone arch, apparently cut from solid rock, that spans the brown rippling
+          waters, where wild, overhanging banks, shadowy trees, and dipping wild flowers,
+          all conspire to make a romantic picture. This bridge, with the river and
+          scenery, were poetic items that went, with other things, to form the sensitive
+          mind of Byron, who lived here in his earlier days. He has some lines about
+          it:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"As 'auld lang syne' brings Scotland, one and all,</p>
+            <p class="l">Scotch, plaids, Scotch snoods, the blue hills and clear
+            streams,</p>
+            <p class="l">The Dee, the Don, Balgounie's brig's black wall,</p>
+            <p class="l">All my boy-feelings, all my gentler dreams,</p>
+            <p class="l">Of what I then dreamt clothed in their own pall,</p>
+            <p class="l">Like Banquo's offspring,&mdash;floating past me seems</p>
+            <p class="l">My childhood, in this childishness of mind:</p>
+            <p class="l">I care not&mdash;'tis a glimpse of 'auld lang syne.'"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image15.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">This old bridge has a prophecy connected with it, which was
+          repeated to us, and you shall have it literatim:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Brig of Balgounie, black's your wa',</p>
+            <p class="l">Wi' a wife's ae son, and a mare's a foal,</p>
+            <p class="l">Doon ye shall fa'!"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The bridge was built in the time of Robert Bruce, by one
+          Bishop Cheyne, of whom all that I know is, that he evidently had a good eye for
+          the picturesque.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After this we went to visit King's College. The tower of it is
+          surmounted by a massive stone crown, which forms a very singular feature in
+          every view of Aberdeen, and is said to be a perfectly unique specimen of
+          architecture. This King's College is very old, being founded also by a bishop,
+          as far back as the fifteenth century. It has an exquisitely carved roof, and
+          carved oaken seats. We went through the library, the hall, and the museum.
+          Certainly, the old, dark architecture of these universities must tend to form a
+          different style of mind from our plain matter-of-fact college buildings.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here in Aberdeen is the veritable Marischal College, so often
+          quoted by Dugald Dalgetty. We had not time to go and see it, but I can assure
+          you on the authority of the guide book, that it is a magnificent specimen of
+          architecture.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After this, that we might not neglect the present in our zeal
+          for the past, we went to the marble yards, where they work the Aberdeen
+          granite. This granite, of which we have many specimens in America, is of two
+          kinds, one being gray, the other of a reddish hue. It seems to differ from
+          other granite in the fineness and closeness of its grain, which enables it to
+          receive the most brilliant conceivable polish. I saw some superb columns of the
+          red species, which were preparing to go over the Baltic to Riga, for an
+          Exchange; and a sepulchral monument, which was going to New York. All was busy
+          here, sawing, chipping, polishing; as different a scene from the gray old
+          cathedral as could be imagined. The granite finds its way, I suppose, to
+          countries which the old, unsophisticated abbots never dreamed of.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One of the friends who had accompanied us during the morning
+          tour was the celebrated architect, Mr. Leslie, whose conversation gave us all
+          much enjoyment. He and Mrs. Leslie gave me a most invaluable parting present,
+          to wit, four volumes of engravings, representing the "Baronial and
+          Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland," illustrated by Billings. I cannot tell
+          you what a mine of pleasure it has been to me. It is a proof edition, and the
+          engravings are so vivid, and the drawing so fine, that it is nearly as good as
+          reality. It might almost save one the trouble of a pilgrimage. I consider the
+          book a kind of national poem; for architecture is, in its nature, poetry;
+          especially in these old countries, where it weaves into itself a nation's
+          history, and gives literally the image and body of the times.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_24" name="toc_24"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter VII</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear
+          Cousin</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">While here in Aberdeen I received a very odd letter, so peculiar
+          and curious that I will give you the benefit of it. The author appears to be,
+          in his way, a kind of Christopher in his cave, or Timon of Athens. I omit some
+          parts which are more expressive than agreeable. It is dated</p>
+          <div class="display">
+            <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right">"STONEHAVEN, N.B.,
+            Kincardineshire,</p>
+            <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right">57&deg; N.W. This 21st April,
+            1853.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"To <span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mrs.
+            Harriet B. Stowe</span>:&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"My dear Madam: By the time that this gets your length, the
+            fouk o' Aberdeen will be shewin ye off as a rare animal, just arrived frae
+            America; the wife that writ Uncle Tom's Cabin.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"I wad like to see ye mysel, but I canna win for want o'
+            siller, and as I thought ye might be writin a buke about the Scotch when ye
+            get hame, I hae just sent ye this bit auld key to Sawney's Cabin.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Well then, dinna forget to speer at the Aberdeenians if it be
+            true they ance kidnappet little laddies, and selt them for slaves; that they
+            dang down the Quaker's kirkyard dyke, and houket up dead Quakers out o' their
+            graves; that the young boys at the college printed a buke, and maist naebody
+            wad buy it, and they cam out to Ury, near Stonehaven, and took twelve stots
+            frae Davie Barclay to pay the printer.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Dinna forget to speer at &mdash;&mdash;, if it was true that
+            he flogget three laddies in the beginning o' last year, for the three
+            following crimes: first, for the crime of being born of puir, ignorant
+            parents; second, for the crime of being left in ignorance; and, third, for
+            the crime of having nothing to eat.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Dinna be telling when ye gang hame that ye rode on the
+            Aberdeen railway, made by a hundred men, who were all in the Stonehaven
+            prison for drunkenness; nor above five could sign their names.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"If the Scotch kill ye with ower feeding and making speeches,
+            be sure to send this hame to tell your fouk, that it was Queen Elizabeth who
+            made the first European law to buy and sell human beings like brute beasts.
+            She was England's glory as a Protestant, and Scotland's shame as the murderer
+            of their bonnie Mary. The auld hag skulked away like a coward in the hour of
+            death. Mary, on the other hand, with calmness and dignity, repeated a Latin
+            prayer to the Great Spirit and Author of her being, and calmly resigned
+            herself into the hands of her murderers.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"In the capital of her ancient kingdom, when ye are in our
+            country, there are eight hundred women, sent to prison every year for the
+            first time. Of fifteen thousand prisoners examined in Scotland in the year
+            1845, eight thousand could not write at all, and three thousand could not
+            read.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"At present there are about twenty thousand prisoners in
+            Scotland. In Stonehaven they are fed at about seventeen pounds each,
+            annually. The honest poor, outside the prison upon the parish roll, are fed
+            at the rate of five farthings a day, or two pounds a year. The employment of
+            the prisoners is grinding the wind, we ca' it; turning the crank, in plain
+            English. The latest improvement is the streekin board; it's a whig
+            improvement o' Lord Jonnie Russell's.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"I ken brawly ye are a curious wife, and would like to ken a'
+            about the Scotch bodies. Weel, they are a gay, ignorant, proud, drunken pack;
+            they manage to pay ilka year for whuskey one million three hundred and
+            forty-eight thousand pounds.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"But then their piety, their piety; weel, let's luke at it;
+            hing it up by the nape o' the neck, and turn it round atween our finger and
+            thumb on all sides.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Is there one school in all Scotland where the helpless,
+            homeless poor are fed and clothed at the public expense? None.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Is there a hame in all Scotland for the cleanly but sick
+            servant maid to go till, until health be restored? Alas! there is none.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Is there a school in all Scotland for training ladies in the
+            higher branches of learning? None. What then is there for the women of
+            Scotland?</p>
+            <br />
+             
+            <p class="noindent">"A weel, be sure and try a cupful of Scottish Kail
+            Broase. See, and get a sup Scotch <em>lang milk</em>.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"Hand this bit line yout to the Rev. Mr. &mdash;&mdash;. Tell
+            him to store out fats nae true.</p>
+            <p class="dgp">"God bless you, and set you safe hame, is the prayer of the
+            old Scotch Bachelor."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I think you will agree with me, that the old testifying
+          spirit does not seem to have died out in Scotland, and that the backslidings
+          and abominations of the land do not want for able exponents.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As the indictment runs back to the time of Charles II., to the
+          persecutions of the Quakers in the days of Barclay of Ury, and brings up again
+          the most modern offences, one cannot but feel that there are the most savory
+          indications in it of Scotch thoroughness.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Some of the questions which he wishes to have me
+          "<em>speer</em>" at Aberdeen, I fear, alas! would bring but an indifferent
+          answer even in Boston, which gives a high school only to boys, and allows none
+          to girls. On one point, it seems to me, my friend might speer himself to
+          advantage, and that is the very commendable efforts which are being made now in
+          Edinburgh and Aberdeen both, in the way of educating the children of the
+          poor.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As this is one of the subjects which are particularly on my
+          mind, and as all information which we can get upon this subject is peculiarly
+          valuable to us in view of commencing efforts in America, I will abridge for you
+          an account of the industrial schools of Aberdeen, published by the society for
+          improving the condition of the laboring classes, in their paper called the
+          Laborer's Friend.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In June, 1841, it was ascertained that in Aberdeen there were
+          two hundred and eighty children, under fourteen years of age, who maintained
+          themselves professedly by begging, but partly by theft. The first effort to
+          better the moral condition of these children brought with it the discovery
+          which our philanthropists made in New York, that in order to do good to a
+          starving child, we must begin by feeding him; that we must gain his confidence
+          by showing him a benevolence which he can understand, and thus proceed
+          gradually to the reformation of his spiritual nature.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In 1841, therefore, some benevolent individuals in Aberdeen
+          hired rooms and a teacher, and gave out notice among these poor children that
+          they could there be supplied with food, work, and instruction. The general
+          arrangement of the day was four hours of lessons, five hours of work, and three
+          substantial meals. These meals were employed as the incitement to the lessons
+          and the work, since it was made an indispensable condition to each meal that
+          the child should have been present at the work or lessons which preceded it.
+          This arrangement worked admirably; so that they reported that the attendance
+          was more regular than at ordinary schools.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The whole produce of the work of the children goes towards
+          defraying the expense of the establishment, thus effecting several important
+          purposes,&mdash;reducing the expense of the school, and teaching the children,
+          practically, the value of their industry,&mdash;in procuring for them food and
+          instruction, and fostering in them, from the first, a sound principle of
+          self-dependence; inasmuch as they know, from the moment of their entering
+          school, that they give, or pay, in return for their food and education, all the
+          work they are capable of performing.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The institution did not profess to clothe the children; but by
+          the kindness of benevolent persons who take an interest in the school, there is
+          generally a stock of old clothes on hand, from which the most destitute are
+          supplied.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The following is the daily routine of the school: The scholars
+          assemble every morning at seven in summer, and eight in winter. The school is
+          opened by reading the Scriptures, praise, and prayer, and religious instruction
+          suited to their years; after which there is a lesson in geography, or the more
+          ordinary facts of natural history, taught by means of maps and prints
+          distributed along the walls of the school room; two days in the week they have
+          a singing lesson; at nine they breakfast on porridge and milk, and have half an
+          hour of play; at ten they again assemble in school, and are employed at work
+          till two. At two o'clock they dine; usually on broth, with coarse wheaten
+          bread, but occasionally on potatoes and ox-head soup, &amp;c. The diet is very
+          plain, but nutritious and abundant, and appears to suit the tastes of the
+          pupils completely. It is a pleasing sight to see them assembled, with their
+          youthful appetites sharpened by four hours' work, joining, at least with
+          outward decorum, in asking God's blessing on the food he has provided for them,
+          and most promptly availing themselves of the signal given to commence their
+          dinner.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From dinner till three, the time is spent in exercise or
+          recreation, occasionally working in the garden; from three to four, they work
+          either in the garden or in the work room; from four till seven, they are
+          instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic. At seven they have supper of
+          porridge and milk; and after short religious exercises, are dismissed to their
+          homes at eight.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On Saturday, they do not return to school after dinner; and
+          occasionally, as a reward of good behavior, they accompany the teacher in a
+          walk to the country or the sea coast.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On Sunday, they assemble at half past eight for devotion;
+          breakfast at nine; attend worship in the school room; after which they dine,
+          and return home, so as, if possible, to go with their parents to church in the
+          afternoon.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At five they again meet, and have <em>Sabbath school</em>
+          instruction in Bible and catechism; at seven, supper; and after evening worship
+          are dismissed.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From this detail it will be seen that these schools differ from
+          common day schools. In day schools, neither food nor employment is
+          provided&mdash;teaching only is proposed, with a very little moral
+          training.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The principle on which the industrial school proceeds, of giving
+          employment along with instruction&mdash;especially as that employment is
+          designed at the same time, if possible, to teach a trade which may be
+          afterwards available&mdash;appears of the highest value. It is a practical
+          discipline&mdash;a moral training, the importance of which cannot be
+          over-estimated.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In a common school, too, there can be but little moral training,
+          however efficiently the school may be conducted, just because there is little
+          opportunity given for the development and display of individual character. The
+          whole management of a school requires that the pupils be as speedily as
+          possible brought to a uniform outward conduct, and thus an appearance of good
+          behavior and propriety is produced within the school room, which is too often
+          cast aside and forgotten the moment the pupils pass the threshold.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The remark was once made by an experienced teacher, that for the
+          purposes of moral training he valued more the time he spent with his pupils at
+          their games, than that which was spent in the school room.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The pecuniary value of the work done in these schools is not so
+          great as was at first hoped, from the difficulty of procuring employment such
+          as children so neglected could perform to advantage. The real value of the
+          thing, however, they consider lies in the habits of industry and the sense of
+          independence thus imparted.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At the outset the managers of the school regretted extremely
+          their want of ability to furnish lodgings to the children. It was thought and
+          said that the homes, to which the majority of them were obliged to return after
+          school hours, would deprave faster than any instruction could reform.
+          Fortunately it was impossible, at the time, to provide lodging for the
+          children, and thus an experience was wrought out most valuable to all future
+          laborers in this field.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The managers report that after six years' trial, the instances
+          where evil results from the children returning home, are very rare; while there
+          have been most cheering instances of substantial good being carried by the
+          child, from the school, through the whole family. There are few parents,
+          especially mothers, so abandoned as not to be touched by kindness shown to
+          their offspring. It is the direct road to the mother's heart. Show kindness to
+          her child, and she is prepared at once to second your efforts on its behalf.
+          She must be debased, indeed, who will not listen to her child repeating its
+          text from the Bible, or singing a verse of its infant hymn; and by this means
+          the first seeds of a new life may be, and have been, planted in the parent's
+          heart.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In cases where parents are so utterly depraved as to make it
+          entirely hopeless to reform the child at home, they have found it the best
+          course to board them, two or three together, in respectable families; the
+          influences of the family state being held to be essential.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The success which attended the boys' school of industry soon led
+          to the establishment of one for girls, conducted on the same principles; and it
+          is stated that the change wrought among poor, outcast girls, by these means,
+          was even more striking and gratifying than among the boys.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After these schools had been some time in operation, it was
+          discovered that there were still multitudes of depraved children who could not
+          or did not avail themselves of these privileges. It was determined by the
+          authorities of the city of Aberdeen, in conformity with the Scripture
+          injunction, to go out into the highways and hedges and <em>compel</em> them to
+          come in. Under the authority of the police act they proposed to lay hold of the
+          whole of the juvenile vagrants, and provide them with food and instruction.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Instructions were given to the police, on the 19th of May, 1845,
+          to convey every child found begging to the soup kitchen; and, in the course of
+          the day, seventy-five were collected, of whom four only could read. The scene
+          which ensued is indescribable. Confusion and uproar, quarrelling and fighting,
+          language of the most hateful description, and the most determined rebellion
+          against every thing like order and regularity, gave the gentlemen engaged in
+          the undertaking of taming them the hardest day's work they had ever
+          encountered. Still, they so far prevailed, that, by evening, their authority
+          was comparatively established. When dismissed, the children were invited to
+          return next day&mdash;informed that, of course, they could do so or not, as
+          they pleased, and that, if they did, they should be fed and instructed, but
+          that, whether they came or not, begging would not be tolerated. Next day, the
+          <em>greater part</em> returned. The managers felt that they had triumphed, and
+          that a great field of moral usefulness was now secured to them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The class who were brought to this school were far below those
+          who attend the other two institutions&mdash;low as they appeared to be when the
+          schools were first opened; and the scenes of filth, disease, and misery,
+          exhibited even in the school itself, were such as would speedily have driven
+          from the work all merely sentimental philanthropists. Those who undertake this
+          work must have sound, strong principle to influence them, else they will soon
+          turn from it in disgust.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The school went on prosperously; it soon excited public
+          interest; funds flowed in; and, what is most gratifying, the working classes
+          took a lively interest in it; and while the wealthier inhabitants of Aberdeen
+          contributed during the year about one hundred and fifty pounds for its support,
+          the working men collected, and handed over to the committee, no less than two
+          hundred and fifty pounds.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Very few children in attendance at the industrial schools have
+          been convicted of any offence. The regularity of attendance is owing to the
+          children receiving their food in the school; and the school hours being from
+          seven in the morning till seven at night, there is little opportunity for the
+          commission of crime.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The experience acquired in these schools, and the connection
+          which most of the managers had with the criminal courts of the city, led to the
+          opening of a fourth institution&mdash;the Child's Asylum. Acting from day to
+          day as judges, these gentlemen had occasionally cases brought before them which
+          gave them extreme pain. Children&mdash;nay, infants&mdash;were brought up on
+          criminal charges: the facts alleged against them were incontestably proved; and
+          yet, in a moral sense, they could scarcely be held <em>guilty</em>, because, in
+          truth, they did not know that they had done wrong.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were, however, great practical difficulties in the way,
+          which could only be got over indirectly. The magistrate could adjourn the case,
+          directing the child to be cared for in the mean time, and inquiry could be made
+          as to his family and relations, as to his character, and the prospect of his
+          doing better in future; and he could either be restored to his relations, or
+          boarded in the house of refuge, or with a family, and placed at one or other of
+          the industrial schools; the charge of crime still remaining against him, to be
+          made use of at once if he deserted school and returned to evil courses.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The great advantage sought here was to avoid stamping the child
+          for life with the character of a convicted felon before he deserved it. Once
+          thus brand a child in this country, and it is all but impossible for him ever,
+          by future good conduct, to efface the mask. How careful ought the law and those
+          who administer it to be, not rashly to impress this stigma on the neglected
+          child!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Child's Asylum was opened on the 4th of December, 1846; and
+          as a proof of the efficiency of the industrial schools in checking juvenile
+          vagrancy and delinquency, it may be noticed that nearly a week elapsed before a
+          child was brought to the asylum. When a child is apprehended by the police for
+          begging, or other misdemeanor, he is conveyed to this institution, and his case
+          is investigated; for which purpose the committee meets daily. If the child be
+          of destitute parents, he is sent to one of the industrial schools; if the child
+          of a worthless, but not needy, parent, efforts are made to induce the parent to
+          fulfil his duty, and exercise his authority in restraining the evil habits of
+          the child, by sending him to school, or otherwise removing him out of the way
+          of temptation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From the 4th of December up to the 18th of March, forty-seven
+          cases, several of them more than once, had been brought up and carefully
+          inquired into. Most of them were disposed of in the manner now stated; but a
+          few were either claimed by, or remitted to, the procurator fiscal, as proper
+          objects of punishment.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is premature to say much of an institution which has existed
+          for so short a time; but if the principle on which it is founded be as correct
+          and sound as it appears, it must prosper and do good. There is, however, one
+          great practical difficulty, which can only be removed by legislative enactment:
+          there is no power at present to <em>detain</em> the children in the Asylum, or
+          to force them to attend the schools to which they have been Bent.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Such have been the rise and progress of the four industrial
+          schools in Aberdeen, including, as one of them, the Child's Asylum.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All the schools are on the most catholic basis, the only
+          qualification for membership being a subscription of a few shillings a year;
+          and the doors are open to all who require admission, without distinction of
+          sect or party.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The experience, then, of Aberdeen appears to demonstrate the
+          possibility of reclaiming even the most abject and depraved of our juvenile
+          population at a very moderate expense. The schools have been so long in
+          operation, that, if there had been anything erroneous in the principles or the
+          management of them, it must ere now have appeared; and if all the results have
+          been encouraging, why should not the system be extended and established in
+          other places? There is nothing in it which may not easily be copied in any town
+          or village of our land where it is required.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I cannot help adding to this account some directions, which a
+          very experienced teacher in these schools gives to those who are desirous of
+          undertaking this enterprise.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"1. The school rooms and appurtenances ought to be of the
+          plainest and most unpretending description. This is perfectly consistent with
+          the most scrupulous cleanliness and complete ventilation. In like manner, the
+          food should be wholesome, substantial, and abundant, but very plain&mdash;such
+          as the boys or girls may soon be able to attain, or even surpass, by their own
+          exertions after leaving school.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"2. The teachers must ever be of the best description, patient
+          and persevering, not easily discouraged, and thoroughly versed in whatever
+          branch they may have to teach; and, above all things, they must be persons of
+          solid and undoubted piety&mdash;for without this qualification, all others
+          will, in the end, prove worthless and unavailing.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Throughout the day, the children must ever be kept in mind
+          that, after all, religion is 'the one thing needful;' that the soul is of more
+          value than the body.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"3. <em>The schools must be kept of moderate size</em>: from
+          their nature this is absolutely necessary. It is a task of the greatest
+          difficulty to manage, in a satisfactory manner, a large school of children,
+          even of the higher classes, with all the advantages of careful home-training
+          and superintendence; but with industrial schools it is folly to attempt it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"From eighty to one hundred scholars is the largest number that
+          ever should be gathered into one institution; when they exceed this, <em>let
+          additional schools be opened</em>; in other words, <em>increase the number, not
+          the size, of the schools</em>. They should be put down in the localities most
+          convenient for the scholars, so that distance may be no bar to attendance; and
+          if circumstances permit, a garden, either at the school or at no very great
+          distance, will be of great utility.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"4. As soon as practicable, the children should be taught, and
+          kept steadily at, some trade or other, by which they may earn their subsistence
+          on leaving school; for the longer they have pursued this particular occupation
+          at school, the more easily will they be able thereby to support themselves
+          afterwards.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"As to commencing schools in new places, the best way of
+          proceeding is for a few persons, who are of one mind on the subject, to unite,
+          advance from their own purses, or raise among their friends, the small sum
+          necessary at the outset, get their teacher, open their school, and collect a
+          few scholars, gradually extend the number, and when they have made some
+          progress, then tell the public what they have been doing; ask them to come and
+          see; and, if they approve, to give their money and support. Public meetings and
+          eloquent speeches are excellent things for exciting interest and raising funds,
+          but they are of no use in carrying on the every-day work of the school.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Let not the managers expect impossibilities. There will be
+          crime and distress in spite of industrial schools; but they may be immensely
+          reduced; and let no one be discouraged by the occasional lapse into a crime of
+          a promising pupil. Such things must be while sin reigns in the heart of man;
+          let them only be thereby stirred up to greater and more earnest exertion in
+          their work.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Let them be most careful as to the parties whom they admit to
+          <em>act</em> along with them; for unless <em>all</em> the laborers be of one
+          heart and mind, divisions must ensue, and the whole work be marred.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"It is most desirable that as many persons as possible of wealth
+          and influence should lend their aid in supporting these institutions. Patrons
+          and subscribers should be of all ranks and denominations; but they must beware
+          of interfering with the actual daily working of the school, which ought to be
+          left to the unfettered energies of those who, by their zeal, their activity,
+          their sterling principle, and their successful administration, have proved
+          themselves every way competent to the task they have undertaken.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"If the managers wish to carry out the good effect of their
+          schools to the utmost, then they will not confine their labor to the scholars;
+          <em>they will, through them, get access to the parents</em>. The good which the
+          ladies of the Aberdeen Female School have already thus accomplished is not to
+          be told; but let none try this work who do not experimentally know the value of
+          the immortal soul."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Industrial schools seem to open a bright prospect to the
+          hitherto neglected outcasts of our cities; for them a new era seems to be
+          commencing: they are no longer to be restrained and kept in order by the iron
+          bars of the prison house, and taught morality by the scourge of the
+          executioner. They are now to be treated as reasonable and immortal beings; and
+          may He who is the God of the poor as well as the rich give his effectual
+          blessing with them, wherever they may be established, so that they may be a
+          source of joy and rejoicing to all ranks of society.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Such is the result of the "speerings" recommended by my worthy
+          correspondent. I have given them much at length, because they are useful to us
+          in the much needed reforms commencing in our cities.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to the appalling statements about intemperance, I grieve to
+          say that they are confirmed by much which must meet the eye even of the passing
+          stranger. I have said before how often the natural features of this country
+          reminded me of the State of Maine. Would that the beneficent law which has
+          removed, to so great an extent, pauperism and crime from that noble state might
+          also be given to Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I suppose that the efforts for the benefit of the poorer classes
+          in this city might be paralleled by efforts of a similar nature in the other
+          cities of Scotland, particularly in Edinburgh, where great exertions have been
+          making; but I happened to have a more full account of these in Aberdeen, and so
+          give them as specimens of the whole. I must say, however, that in no city which
+          I visited in Scotland did I see such neatness, order, and thoroughness, as in
+          Aberdeen; and in none did there appear to be more gratifying evidences of
+          prosperity and comfort among that class which one sees along the streets and
+          thoroughfares.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">About two o'clock we started from Aberdeen among crowds of
+          friends, to whom we bade farewell with real regret.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our way at first lay over the course of yesterday, along that
+          beautiful sea coast&mdash;beautiful to the eye, but perilous to the navigator.
+          They told us that the winds and waves raged here with an awful power. Not long
+          before we came, the Duke of Sutherland, an iron steamer, was wrecked upon this
+          shore. In one respect the coast of Maine has decidedly the advantage over this,
+          and, indeed, of every other sea coast which I have ever visited; and that is in
+          the richness of the wooding, which veils its picturesque points and capes in
+          luxuriant foldings of verdure.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At Stonehaven station, where we stopped a few minutes, there was
+          quite a gathering of the inhabitants to exchange greetings, and afterwards at
+          successive stations along the road, many a kindly face and voice made our
+          journey a pleasant one.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When we got into old Dundee it seemed all alive with welcome. We
+          went in the carriage with the lord provost, Mr. Thoms, to his residence, where
+          a party had been waiting dinner for us some time.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The meeting in the evening was in a large church, densely
+          crowded, and conducted much as the others had been. When they came to sing the
+          closing hymn, I hoped they would sing Dundee; but they did not, and I fear in
+          Scotland, as elsewhere, the characteristic national melodies are giving way
+          before more modern ones.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On the stage we were surrounded by many very pleasant people,
+          with whom, between the services, we talked without knowing their names. The
+          venerable Dr. Dick, the author of the Christian Philosopher and the Philosophy
+          of the Future State, was there. Gilfillan was also present, and spoke. Together
+          with their contribution to the Scottish offering, they presented me with quite
+          a collection of the works of different writers of Dundee, beautifully
+          bound.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We came away before the exercises of the evening were
+          finished.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next morning we had quite a large breakfast party, mostly
+          ministers and their wives. Good old Dr. Dick was there, and I had an
+          introduction to him, and had pleasure in speaking to him of the interest with
+          which his works have been read in America. Of this fact I was told that he had
+          received more substantial assurance in a comfortable sum of money subscribed
+          and remitted to him by his American readers. If this be so it is a most
+          commendable movement.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">What a pity it was, during Scott's financial embarrassments,
+          that every man, woman, and child in America, who had received pleasure from his
+          writings, had not subscribed something towards an offering justly due to
+          him!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our host, Mr. Thoms, was one of the first to republish in
+          Scotland Professor Stuart's Letters to Dr. Channing, with a preface of his own.
+          He showed me Professor Stuart's letter in reply, and seemed rather amused that
+          the professor directed it to the Rev. James Thom, supposing, of course, that so
+          much theological zeal could not inhere in a layman. He also showed us many
+          autograph letters of their former pastor, Mr. Cheyne, whose interesting memoirs
+          have excited a good deal of attention in some circles in America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After breakfast the ladies of the Dundee Antislavery Society
+          called, and then the lord provost took us in his carriage to see the city.
+          Dundee is the third town of Scotland in population, and a place of great
+          antiquity. Its population in 1851 was seventy-eight thousand eight hundred and
+          twenty-nine, and the manufactures consist principally of yarns, linen, with
+          canvas and cotton bagging, great quantities of which are exported to France and
+          North and South America. There are about sixty spinning mills and factories in
+          the town and neighborhood, besides several iron founderies and manufactories of
+          steam engines and machinery.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Dundee has always been a stronghold of liberty and the reformed
+          religion. It is said that in the grammar school of this town William Wallace
+          was educated; and here an illustrious confraternity of noblemen and gentry was
+          formed, who joined to resist the tyranny of England.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here Wishart preached in the beginning of the reformation,
+          preparatory to his martyrdom. Here flourished some rude historical writers, who
+          devoted their talents to the downfall of Popery. Singularly enough, they
+          accomplished this in part by dramatic representations, in which the vices and
+          absurdities of the Papal establishment were ridiculed before the people. Among
+          others, one James Wedderburn and his brother, John, vicar of Dundee, are
+          mentioned as having excelled in this kind of composition. The same authors
+          composed books of song, denominated "Gude and Godly Ballads," wherein the
+          frauds and deceits of Popery were fully pointed out. A third brother of the
+          family, being a musical genius, it is said, "turned the times and tenor of many
+          profane songs into godly songs and hymns, whereby he stirred up the affections
+          of many," which tunes were called the Psalms of Dundee. Here, perhaps, was the
+          origin of "Dundee's wild warbling measures."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The conjoint forces of tragedy, comedy, ballads, and music, thus
+          brought to bear on the popular mind, was very great.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Dundee has been a great sufferer during the various civil
+          commotions in Scotland. In the time of Charles I. it stood out for the solemn
+          league and covenant, for which crime the Earl of Montrose was sent against it,
+          who took and burned it. It is said that he called Dundee a most seditious town,
+          the securest haunt and receptacle of rebels, and a place that had contributed
+          as much as any other to the rebellion. Yet afterwards, when Montrose was led a
+          captive through Dundee, the historian observes, "It is remarkable of the town
+          of Dundee, in which he lodged one night, that though it had suffered more by
+          his army than any town else within the kingdom, yet were they, amongst all the
+          rest, so far from exulting over him, that the whole town testified a great deal
+          of sorrow for his woful condition; and there was he likewise furnished with
+          clothes suitable to his birth and person."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This town of Dundee was stormed by Monk and the forces of
+          Parliament during the time of the commonwealth, because they had sheltered the
+          fugitive Charles II., and granted him money. When taken by Monk, he committed a
+          great many barbarities.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It has also been once visited by the plague, and once with a
+          seven years' dearth or famine.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Most of these particulars I found in a History of Dundee, which
+          formed one of the books presented to me.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The town is beautifully situated on the Firth of Tay, which here
+          spreads its waters, and the quantity of shipping indicates commercial
+          prosperity.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I was shown no abbeys or cathedrals, either because none ever
+          existed, or because they were destroyed when the town was fired.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In our rides about the city, the local recollections that our
+          friends seemed to recur to with as much interest as any, were those connected
+          with the queen's visit to Dundee, in 1844. The spot where she landed has been
+          commemorated by the erection of a superb triumphal arch in stone. The provost
+          said some of the people were quite astonished at the plainness of the queen's
+          dress, having looked for something very dazzling and overpowering from a queen.
+          They could scarcely believe their eyes, when they saw her riding by in a plain
+          bonnet, and enveloped in a simple shepherd's plaid.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The queen is exceedingly popular in Scotland, doubtless in part
+          because she heartily appreciated the beauty of the country, and the strong and
+          interesting traits of the people. She has a country residence at Balmorrow,
+          where she spends a part of every year; and the impression seems to prevail
+          among her Scottish subjects, that she never appears to feel herself more happy
+          or more at home than in this her Highland dwelling. The legend is, that here
+          she delights to throw off the restraints of royalty; to go about plainly
+          dressed, like a private individual; to visit in the cottages of the poor; to
+          interest herself in the instruction of the children; and to initiate the future
+          heir of England into that practical love of the people which is the best
+          qualification for a ruler.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I repeat to you the things which I hear floating of the public
+          characters of England, and you can attach what degree of credence you may think
+          proper. As a general rule in this censorious world, I think it safe to suppose
+          that the good which is commonly reported of public characters, if not true in
+          the letter of its details, is at least so in its general spirit. The stories
+          which are told about distinguished people generally run in a channel coincident
+          with the facts of their character. On the other hand, with regard to evil
+          reports, it is safe always to allow something for the natural propensity to
+          detraction and slander, which is one of the most undoubted facts of human
+          nature in all lands.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We left Dundee at two o'clock, by cars, for Edinburgh. In the
+          evening we attended another <em>soir&eacute;e</em> of the working men of
+          Edinburgh. As it was similar in all respects to the one at Glasgow, I will not
+          dwell upon it, further than to say how gratifying to me, in every respect, are
+          occasions in which working men, as a class, stand out before the public.
+          <em>They</em> are to form, more and more, a new power in society, greater than
+          the old power of helmet and sword, and I rejoice in every indication that they
+          are learning to understand themselves.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We have received letters from the working men, both in Dundee
+          and Glasgow, desiring our return to attend <em>soir&eacute;es</em> in those
+          cities. Nothing could give us greater pleasure, had we time and strength. No
+          class of men are more vitally interested in the conflict of freedom against
+          slavery than working men. The principle upon which slavery is founded touches
+          every interest of theirs. If it be right that one half of the community should
+          deprive the other half of education, of all opportunities to rise in the world,
+          of all property rights and all family ties, merely to make them more convenient
+          tools for their profit and luxury, then every injustice and extortion, which
+          oppresses the laboring man in any country, can be equally defended.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_25" name="toc_25"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter VIII</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear
+          Aunt E.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">You wanted us to write about our visit to Melrose; so here you
+          have it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On Tuesday morning Mr. S. and C&mdash;&mdash; had agreed to go
+          back to Glasgow for the purpose of speaking at a temperance meeting, and as we
+          were restricted for time, we were obliged to make the visit to Melrose in their
+          absence, much to the regret of us all. G&mdash;&mdash; thought we would make a
+          little quiet run out in the cars by ourselves, while Mr. S. and C&mdash;&mdash;
+          were gone back to Glasgow.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was one of those soft, showery, April days, misty and
+          mystical, now weeping and now shining, that we found ourselves whirled by the
+          cars through this enchanted ground of Scotland. Almost every name we heard
+          spoken along the railroad, every stream we passed, every point we looked at,
+          recalled some line of Walter Scott's poetry, or some event of history. The
+          thought that he was gone forever, whose genius had given the charm to all,
+          seemed to settle itself down like a melancholy mist. To how little purpose
+          seemed the few, short years of his life, compared with the capabilities of such
+          a soul! Brilliant as his success had been, how was it passed like a dream! It
+          seemed sad to think that he had not only passed away himself, but that almost
+          the whole family and friendly circle had passed with him&mdash;not a son left
+          to bear his name!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here we were in the region of the Ettrick, the Yarrow, and the
+          Tweed. I opened the Lay of the Last Minstrel, and, as if by instinct, the first
+          lines my eye fell upon were these:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Call it not vain: they do not err</p>
+            <p class="l">Who say, that when the poet dies,</p>
+            <p class="l">Mute nature mourns her worshipper,</p>
+            <p class="l">And celebrates his obsequies;</p>
+            <p class="l">Who say, tall cliff and cavern lone</p>
+            <p class="l">For the departed bard make moan;</p>
+            <p class="l">That mountains weep in crystal rill;</p>
+            <p class="l">That flowers in tears of balm distil;</p>
+            <p class="l">Through his loved groves that breezes sigh,</p>
+            <p class="l">And oaks, in deeper groan, reply;</p>
+            <p class="l">And rivers teach their rushing wave</p>
+            <p class="l">To murmur dirges round his grave."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">"Melrose!" said the loud voice of the conductor; and
+          starting, I looked up and saw quite a flourishing village, in the midst of
+          which rose the old, gray, mouldering walls of the abbey. Now, this was somewhat
+          of a disappointment to me. I had been somehow expecting to find the building
+          standing alone in the middle of a great heath, far from all abodes of men, and
+          with no companions more hilarious than the owls. However, it was no use
+          complaining; the fact was, there was a village, and what was more, a hotel, and
+          to this hotel we were to go to get a guide for the places we were to visit; for
+          it was understood that we were to "<em>do</em>" Melrose, Dryburgh, and
+          Abbotsford, all in one day. There was no time for sentiment; it was a business
+          affair, that must be looked in the face promptly, if we meant to get through.
+          Ejaculations and quotations of poetry could, of course, be thrown in, as
+          William, of Deloraine pattered his prayers, while riding.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We all alighted at a very comfortable hotel, and were ushered
+          into as snug a little parlor as one's heart could desire.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image16.png"
+          alt="East Window of Melrose Abbey." /></p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center">East Window of Melrose Abbey.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next thing was to hire a coachman to take us, in the
+          rain,&mdash;for the mist had now swelled into a rain,&mdash;through the whole
+          appropriate round. I stood by and heard names which I had never heard before,
+          except in song, brought into view in their commercial relations; so much for
+          Abbotsford; and so much for Dryburgh; and then, if we would like to throw in
+          Thomas the Rhymer's Tower, why, that would be something extra.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Thomas the Rhymer?" said one of the party, not exactly posted
+          up. "Was he any thing remarkable? Well, is it worth while to go to his tower?
+          It will cost something extra, and take more time."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Weighed in such a sacrilegious balance, Thomas was found
+          wanting, of course: the idea of driving three or four miles farther to see an
+          old tower, supposed to have belonged to a man who is supposed to have existed
+          and to have been carried off by a supposititious Queen of the Fairies into
+          Elfland, was too absurd for reasonable people; in fact, I made believe myself
+          that I did not care much about it, particularly as the landlady remarked, that
+          if we did not get home by five o'clock "the chops might be spoiled."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we all were packed into a tight coach, the rain still
+          pouring, I began to wish mute Nature would not be quite so energetic in
+          distilling her tears. A few sprinkling showers, or a graceful wreath of mist,
+          might be all very well; but a steady, driving rain, that obliged us to shut up
+          the carriage windows, and coated them with mist so that we could not look out,
+          why, I say it is enough to put out the fire of sentiment in any heart. We might
+          as well have been rolled up in a bundle and carried through the country, for
+          all the seeing it was possible to do under such circumstances. It, therefore,
+          should be stated, that we did keep bravely up in our poetic zeal, which kindly
+          Mrs. W. also re&euml;nforced, by distributing certain very delicate sandwiches
+          to support the outer man.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At length, the coach stopped at the entrance of Abbotsford
+          grounds, where there was a cottage, out of which, due notice being given, came
+          a trim, little old woman in a black gown, with pattens on; she put up her
+          umbrella, and we all put up ours; the rain poured harder than ever as we went
+          dripping up the gravel walk, looking much, I inly fancied, like a set of
+          discomforted fowls fleeing to covert. We entered the great court yard,
+          surrounded with a high wall, into which were built sundry fragments of curious
+          architecture that happened to please the poet's fancy.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I had at the moment, spite of the rain, very vividly in my mind
+          Washington Irving's graceful account of his visit to Abbotsford while this
+          house was yet building, and the picture which he has given of Walter Scott
+          sitting before his door, humorously descanting on various fragments of
+          sculpture, which lay scattered about, and which he intended to immortalize by
+          incorporating into his new dwelling.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Viewed as a mere speculation, or, for aught I know, as an
+          architectural effort, this building may, perhaps, be counted as a mistake and a
+          failure. I observe, that it is quite customary to speak of it, among some, as a
+          pity that he ever undertook it. But viewed as a development of his inner life,
+          as a working out in wood and stone of favorite fancies and cherished ideas, the
+          building has to me a deep interest. The gentle-hearted poet delighted himself
+          in it; this house was his stone and wood poem, as irregular, perhaps, and as
+          contrary to any established rule, as his Lay of the Last Minstrel, but still
+          wild and poetic. The building has this interest, that it was throughout his own
+          conception, thought, and choice; that he expressed himself in every stone that
+          was laid, and made it a kind of shrine, into which he wove all his treasures of
+          antiquity, and where he imitated, from the beautiful, old, mouldering ruins of
+          Scotland, the parts that had touched him most deeply.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The walls of one room were of carved oak from the Dunfermline
+          Abbey; the ceiling of another imitated from Roslin Castle; here a fireplace was
+          wrought in the image of a favorite niche in Melrose; and there the ancient
+          pulpit of Erskine was wrought into a wall. To him, doubtless, every object in
+          the house was suggestive of poetic fancies; every carving and bit of tracery
+          had its history, and was as truly an expression of something in the poet's mind
+          as a verse of his poetry.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A building wrought out in this way, and growing up like a bank
+          of coral, may very possibly violate all the proprieties of criticism; it may
+          possibly, too, violate one's ideas of mere housewifery utility; but by none of
+          these rules ought such a building to be judged. We should look at it rather as
+          the poet's endeavor to render outward and visible the dream land of his
+          thoughts, and to create for himself a refuge from the cold, dull realities of
+          life, in an architectural romance.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These were thoughts which gave interest to the scene as we
+          passed through the porchway, adorned with petrified stags' horns, into the long
+          entrance hall of the mansion. This porch was copied from one in Linlithgow
+          palace. One side of this hall was lighted by windows of painted glass. The
+          floor was of black and white marble from the Hebrides. Round the whole cornice
+          there was a line of coats armorial, richly blazoned, and the following
+          inscription in old German text:</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"These be the coat armories of the clanns and chief men of name
+          wha keepit the marchys of Scotland in the old tyme for the kynge. Trewe men war
+          they in their tyme, and in their defence God them defendyt."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were the names of the Douglases, the Elliots, the Scotts,
+          the Armstrongs, and others. I looked at this arrangement with interest, because
+          I knew that Scott must have taken a particular delight in it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The fireplace, designed from a niche in Melrose Abbey, also in
+          this room, and a choice bit of sculpture it is. In it was an old grate, which
+          had its history also, and opposite to it the boards from the pulpit of Erskine
+          were wrought into a kind of side table, or something which served that purpose.
+          The spaces between the windows were decorated with pieces of armor, crossed
+          swords, and stags' horns, each one of which doubtless had its history. On each
+          side of the door, at the bottom of the hall, was a Gothic shrine, or niche, in
+          both of which stood a figure in complete armor.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then we went into the drawing room; a lofty saloon, the woodwork
+          of which is entirely of cedar, richly wrought; probably another of the author's
+          favorite poetic fancies. It is adorned with a set of splendid antique ebony
+          furniture; cabinet, chairs, and piano&mdash;the gift of George IV. to the
+          poet.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went into his library; a magnificent room, on which, I
+          suppose, the poet's fancy had expended itself more than any other. The roof is
+          of carved oak, after models from Roslin Castle. Here, in a niche, is a marble
+          bust of Scott, as we understood a present from Chantrey to the poet; it was one
+          of the best and most animated representations of him I ever saw, and very much
+          superior to the one under the monument in Edinburgh. On expressing my idea to
+          this effect, I found I had struck upon a favorite notion of the good woman who
+          showed us the establishment; she seemed to be an ancient servant of the house,
+          and appeared to entertain a regard for the old laird scarcely less than
+          idolatry. One reason why this statue is superior is, that it represents his
+          noble forehead, which the Edinburgh one suffers to be concealed by falling
+          hair: to cover <em>such</em> a forehead seems scarcely less than a libel.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The whole air of this room is fanciful and picturesque in the
+          extreme. The walls are entirely filled with the bookcases, there being about
+          twenty thousand volumes. A small room opens from the library, which was Scott's
+          own private study. His writing table stood in the centre, with his inkstand on
+          it, and before it a large, plain, black leather arm chair.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In a glass case, I think in this room, was exhibited the suit of
+          clothes he last wore; a blue coat with large metal buttons, plaid trousers, and
+          broad-brimmed hat. Around the sides of this room there was a gallery of light
+          tracery work; a flight of stairs led up to it, and in one corner of it was a
+          door which the woman said led to the poet's bed room. One seemed to see in all
+          this arrangement how snug, and cozy, and comfortable the poet had thus
+          ensconced himself, to give himself up to his beloved labors and his poetic
+          dreams. But there was a cold and desolate air of order and adjustment about it
+          which reminds one of the precise and chilling arrangements of a room from which
+          has just been carried out a corpse; all is silent and deserted.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The house is at present the property of Scott's only surviving
+          daughter, whose husband has assumed the name of Scott. We could not learn from
+          our informant whether any of the family was in the house. We saw only the rooms
+          which are shown to visitors, and a coldness, like that of death, seemed to
+          strike to my heart from their chilly solitude.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we went out of the house we passed another company of
+          tourists coming in, to whom we heard our guide commencing the same recitation,
+          "this is," and "this is," &amp;c., just as she had done to us. One thing about
+          the house and grounds had disappointed me; there was not one view from a single
+          window I saw that was worth any thing, in point of beauty; why a poet, with an
+          eye for the beautiful, could have located a house in such an indifferent spot,
+          on an estate where so many beautiful sites were at his command, I could not
+          imagine.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to the external appearance of Abbotsford, it is as irregular
+          as can well be imagined. There are gables, and pinnacles, and spires, and
+          balconies, and buttresses any where and every where, without rhyme or reason;
+          for wherever the poet wanted a balcony, he had it; or wherever he had a
+          fragment of carved stone, or a bit of historic tracery, to put in, he made a
+          shrine for it forthwith, without asking leave of any rules. This I take to be
+          one of the main advantages of Gothic architecture; it is a most catholic and
+          tolerant system, and any kind of eccentricity may find refuge beneath its
+          mantle.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here and there, all over the house, are stones carved with
+          armorial bearings and pious inscriptions, inserted at random wherever the poet
+          fancied. Half way up the wall in one place is the door of the old Tolbooth at
+          Edinburgh, with the inscription over it, "The Lord of armeis is my protector;
+          blissit ar thay that trust in the Lord. 1575."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A doorway at the west end of the house is composed of stones
+          which formed the portal of the Tolbooth, given to Sir Walter on the pulling
+          down of the building in 1817.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On the east side of the house is a rude carving of a sword with
+          the words, "Up with ye, sutors of Selkyrke. A.D. 1525." Another inscription, on
+          the same side of the house, runs thus:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"By night, by day, remember ay</p>
+            <p class="l">The goodness of ye Lord;</p>
+            <p class="l">And thank his name, whose glorious fame</p>
+            <p class="l">Is spread throughout ye world.&mdash;A.C.M.D. 1516."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">In the yard, to the right of the doorway of the mansion, we
+          saw the figure of Scott's favorite dog Maida, with a Latin
+          inscription&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Maid&aelig; marmorea dormis sub imagine, Maida,</p>
+            <p class="l">Ad januam domini: sit tibi terra levis."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Which in our less expressive English we might
+          render&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">At thy lord's door, in slumbers light and blest,</p>
+            <p class="l">Maida, beneath this marble Maida, rest:</p>
+            <p class="l">Light lie the turf upon thy gentle breast.</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">One of the most endearing traits of Scott was that sympathy
+          and harmony which always existed between him and the brute creation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Poor Maida seemed cold and lonely, washed by the rain in the
+          damp grass plat. How sad, yet how expressive is the scriptural phrase for
+          indicating death! "He shall return to his house no more, neither shall his
+          place know him any more." And this is what all our homes are coming to; our
+          buying, our planting, our building, our marrying and giving in marriage, our
+          genial firesides and dancing children, are all like so many figures passing
+          through the magic lantern, to be put out at last in death.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The grounds, I was told, are full of beautiful paths and seats,
+          favorite walks and lounges of the poet; but the obdurate pertinacity of the
+          rain compelled us to choose the very shortest path possible to the carriage. I
+          picked a leaf of the Portugal laurel, which I send you.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Next we were driven to Dryburgh, or rather to the banks of the
+          Tweed, where a ferryman, with a small skiff waits to take passengers over.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Tweed is a clear, rippling river, with a white, pebbly
+          bottom, just like our New England mountain streams. After we landed we were to
+          walk to the Abbey. Our feet were damp and cold, and our boatman invited us to
+          his cottage. I found him and all his family warmly interested in the fortunes
+          of Uncle Tom and his friends, and for his sake they received me as a
+          long-expected friend. While I was sitting by the ingleside,&mdash;that is, a
+          coal grate,&mdash;warming my feet, I fell into conversation with my host. He
+          and his family, I noticed, spoke English more than Scotch; he was an
+          intelligent young man, in appearance and style of mind precisely what you might
+          expect to meet in a cottage in Maine. He and all the household, even the old
+          grandmother, had read Uncle Tom's Cabin, and were perfectly familiar with all
+          its details. He told me that it had been universally read in the cottages in
+          the vicinity. I judged from his mode of speaking, that he and his neighbors
+          were in the habit of reading a great deal. I spoke of going to Dryburgh to see
+          the grave of Scott, and inquired if his works were much read by the common
+          people. He said that Scott was not so much a favorite with the people as Burns.
+          I inquired if he took a newspaper. He said that the newspapers were kept at so
+          high a price that working men were not able to take them; sometimes they got
+          sight of them through clubs, or by borrowing. How different, thought I, from
+          America, where a workingman would as soon think of going without his bread as
+          without his newspaper!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The cottages of these laboring people, of which there were a
+          whole village along here, are mostly of stone, thatched with straw. This thatch
+          sometimes gets almost entirely grown over with green moss. Thus moss-covered
+          was the roof of the cottage where we stopped, opposite to Dryburgh grounds.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There was about this time one of those weeping pauses in the
+          showery sky, and a kind of thinning and edging away of the clouds, which gave
+          hope that perhaps the sun was going to look out, and give to our persevering
+          researches the countenance of his presence. This was particularly desirable, as
+          the old woman, who came out with her keys to guide us, said she had a cold and
+          a cough: we begged that she would not trouble herself to go with us at all. The
+          fact is, with all respect to nice old women, and the worthy race of guides in
+          general, they are not favorable to poetic meditation. We promised to be very
+          good if she would let us have the key, and lock up all the gates, and bring it
+          back; but no, she was faithfulness itself, and so went coughing along through
+          the dripping and drowned grass to open the gates for us.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This Dryburgh belongs now to the Earl of Buchan, having been
+          bought by him from a family of the name of Haliburton, ancestral connections of
+          Scott, who, in his autobiography, seems to lament certain mischances of fortune
+          which prevented the estate from coming into his own family, and gave them, he
+          said, nothing but the right of stretching their bones there. It seems a pity,
+          too, because the possession of this rich, poetic ruin would have been a mine of
+          wealth to Scott, far transcending the stateliest of modern houses.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now, if you do not remember Scott's poem, of the Eve of St.
+          John, you ought to read it over; for it is, I think, the most spirited of all
+          his ballads; nothing conceals the transcendent lustre and beauty of these
+          compositions, but the splendor of his other literary productions. Had he never
+          written any thing but these, they would have made him a name as a poet. As it
+          was, I found the fanciful chime of the cadences in this ballad ringing through
+          my ears. I kept saying to myself&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The Dryburgh bells do ring,</p>
+            <p class="l">And the white monks do sing</p>
+            <p class="l">For Sir Richard of Coldinghame."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">And as I was wandering around in the labyrinth, of old,
+          broken, mossy arches, I thought&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"There is a nun in Dryburgh bower</p>
+            <p class="l">Ne'er looks upon the sun;</p>
+            <p class="l">There is a monk in Melrose tower,</p>
+            <p class="l">He speaketh word to none.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">That nun who ne'er beholds the day,</p>
+            <p class="l">That monk who speaks to none,</p>
+            <p class="l">That nun was Smaylhome's lady gay,</p>
+            <p class="l">That monk the bold Baron."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">It seems that there is a vault in this edifice which has
+          had some superstitious legends attached to it, from having been the residence,
+          about fifty years ago, of a mysterious lady, who, being under a vow never to
+          behold the light of the sun, only left her cell at midnight. This little story,
+          of course, gives just enough superstitious chill to this beautiful ruin to help
+          the effect of the pointed arches, the clinging wreaths of ivy, the shadowy
+          pines, and yew trees; in short, if one had not a guide waiting, who had a bad
+          cold, if one could stroll here at leisure by twilight or moonlight, one might
+          get up a considerable deal of the mystic and poetic.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is a part of the ruin that stands most picturesquely by
+          itself, as if old Time had intended it for a monument. It is the ruin of that
+          part of the chapel called St. Mary's Aisle; it stands surrounded by luxuriant
+          thickets of pine and other trees, a cluster of beautiful Gothic arches
+          supporting a second tier of smaller and more fanciful ones, one or two of which
+          have that light touch of the Moorish in their form which gives such a singular
+          and poetic effect in many of the old Gothic ruins. Out of these wild arches and
+          windows wave wreaths of ivy, and slender harebells shake their blue pendants,
+          looking in and out of the lattices like little capricious fairies. There are
+          fragments of ruins lying on the ground, and the whole air of the thing is as
+          wild, and dreamlike, and picturesque as the poet's fanciful heart could have
+          desired.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image17.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">Underneath these arches he lies beside his wife; around him the
+          representation of the two things he loved most&mdash;the wild bloom and beauty
+          of nature, and the architectural memorial of by-gone history and art. Yet there
+          was one thing I felt I would have had otherwise; it seemed to me that the flat
+          stones of the pavement are a weight too heavy and too cold to be laid on the
+          breast of a lover of nature and the beautiful. The green turf, springing with
+          flowers, that lies above a grave, does not seem, to us so hopeless a barrier
+          between us and what was warm and loving; the springing grass and daisies there
+          seem, types and assurances that the mortal beneath shall put on immortality;
+          they come up to us as kind messages from the peaceful dust, to say that it is
+          resting in a certain hope of a glorious resurrection.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On the cold flagstones, walled in by iron railings, there were
+          no daisies and no moss; but I picked many of both from, the green turf around,
+          which, with some sprigs of ivy from the walls, I send you.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is strange that we turn away from the grave of this man, who
+          achieved to himself the most brilliant destiny that ever an author
+          did,&mdash;raising himself by his own unassisted efforts to be the chosen
+          companions of nobles and princes, obtaining all that heart could desire of
+          riches and honor,&mdash;we turn away and say, Poor Walter Scott! How desolately
+          touching is the account in Lockhart, of his dim and indistinct agony the day
+          his wife was brought here to be buried! and the last part of that biography is
+          the saddest history that I know; it really makes us breathe a long sigh of
+          relief when we read of the lowering of the coffin into this vault.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">What force does all this give to the passage in his diary in
+          which he records his estimate of life!&mdash;"What is this world? a dream
+          within a dream. As we grow older, each step is an awakening. The youth awakes,
+          as he thinks, from childhood; the full-grown man despises the pursuits of youth
+          as visionary; the old man looks on manhood as a feverish dream. The grave the
+          last sleep? No; it is the last and final awakening."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It has often been remarked, that there is no particular moral
+          purpose aimed at by Scott in his writings; he often speaks of it himself in his
+          last days, in a tone of humility. He represents himself as having been employed
+          mostly in the comparatively secondary department of giving innocent amusement.
+          He often expressed, humbly and earnestly, the hope that he had, at least, done
+          no harm; but I am inclined to think, that although moral effect was not
+          primarily his object, yet the influence of his writings and whole existence on
+          earth has been decidedly good.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is a great thing to have a mind of such power and such
+          influence, whose recognitions of right and wrong, of virtue and vice, were, in
+          most cases, so clear and determined. He never enlists our sympathies in favor
+          of vice, by drawing those seductive pictures, in which it comes so near the
+          shape and form of virtue that the mind is puzzled as to the boundary line. He
+          never makes young ladies feel that they would like to marry corsairs, pirates,
+          or sentimental villains of any description. The most objectionable thing,
+          perhaps, about his influence, is its sympathy with the war spirit. A person
+          Christianly educated can hardly read some of his descriptions in the Lady of
+          the Lake and Marmion without an emotion of disgust, like what is excited by the
+          same things in Homer; and as the world comes more and more under the influence
+          of Christ, it will recede more and more from this kind of literature.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Scott has been censured as being wilfully unjust to the
+          Covenanters and Puritans. I think he meant really to deal fairly by them, and
+          that what <em>he</em> called fairness might seem rank injustice to those
+          brought up to venerate them, as we have been. I suppose that in Old Mortality
+          it was Scott's honest intention to balance the two parties about fairly, by
+          putting on the Covenant side his good, steady, well-behaved hero, Mr. Morton,
+          who is just as much of a Puritan as the Puritans would have been had they taken
+          Sir Walter Scott's advice; that is to say, a very nice, sensible, moral man,
+          who takes the Puritan side because he thinks it the <em>right</em> side, but
+          contemplates all the devotional enthusiasm and religious ecstasies of his
+          associates from a merely artistic and pictorial point of view. The trouble was,
+          when he got his model Puritan done, nobody ever knew what he was meant for; and
+          then all the young ladies voted steady Henry Morton a bore, and went to falling
+          in love with his Cavalier rival, Lord Evandale, and people talked as if it was
+          a preconcerted arrangement of Scott, to surprise the female heart, and carry it
+          over to the royalist side.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The fact was, in describing Evandale he made a living, effective
+          character, because he was describing something he had full sympathy with, and
+          put his whole life into; but Henry Morton is a laborious arrangement of starch
+          and pasteboard to produce one of those supposititious, just-right men, who are
+          always the stupidest of mortals after they are made. As to why Scott did not
+          describe such a character as the martyr Duke of Argyle, or Hampden, or Sir
+          Harry Vane, where high birth, and noble breeding, and chivalrous sentiment were
+          all united with intense devotional fervor, the answer is, that he could not do
+          it; he had not that in him wherewith to do it; a man cannot create that of
+          which he has not first had the elements in himself; and devotional enthusiasm
+          is a thing which Scott never felt. Nevertheless, I believe that he was
+          perfectly sincere in saying that he would, "if necessary, die a martyr for
+          Christianity." He had calm, firm principle to any extent, but it never was
+          kindled into fervor. He was of too calm and happy a temperament to sound the
+          deepest recesses of souls torn up from their depths by mighty conflicts and
+          sorrows. There are souls like the "alabaster vase of ointment, very precious,"
+          which shed no perfume of devotion because a great sorrow has never broken them.
+          Could Scott have been given back to the world again after the heavy discipline
+          of life had passed over him, he would have spoken otherwise of many things.
+          What he vainly struggled to say to Lockhart on his death bed would have been a
+          new revelation, of his soul to the world, could he have lived to unfold it in
+          literature. But so it is: when we have learned to live, life's purpose is
+          answered, and we die!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This is the sum and substance of some conversations held while
+          rambling among these scenes, going in and out of arches, climbing into nooks
+          and through loopholes, picking moss and ivy, and occasionally retreating under
+          the shadow of some arch, while the skies were indulging in a sudden burst of
+          emotion. The poor woman who acted as our guide, ensconcing herself in a dry
+          corner, stood like a literal Patience on a monument, waiting for us to be
+          through; we were sorry for her, but as it was our first and last chance, and
+          she would stay there, we could not help it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Near by the abbey is a square, modern mansion, belonging to the
+          Earl of Buchan, at present untenanted. There were some black, solemn yew trees
+          there, old enough to have told us a deal of history had they been inclined to
+          speak; as it was, they could only drizzle.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we were walking through the yard, a bird broke out into a
+          clear, sweet song.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"What bird is that?" said I.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I think it is the mavis," said the guide. This brought
+          up,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The mavis wild, wie mony a note,</p>
+            <p class="l">Sings drowsy day to rest."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">And also,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Merry it is in wild green wood,</p>
+            <p class="l">When mavis and merle are singing."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">A verse, by the by, dismally suggestive of contrast to this
+          rainy day.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we came along out of the gate, walking back towards the
+          village of Dryburgh, we began, to hope that the skies had fairly wept
+          themselves out; at any rate the rain stopped, and the clouds wore a sulky,
+          leaden-gray aspect, as if they were thinking what to do next.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We saw a knot of respectable-looking laboring men at a little
+          distance, conversing in a group, and now and then stealing glances at us; one
+          of them at last approached and inquired if this was Mrs. Stowe, and being
+          answered in the affirmative, they all said heartily, "Madam, ye're right
+          welcome to Scotland." The chief speaker, then, after a little conversation,
+          asked our party if we would do him the favor to step into his cottage near by,
+          to take a little refreshment after our ramble; to which we assented with
+          alacrity. He led the way to a neat, stone cottage, with a flower garden before
+          the door, and said to a thrifty, rosy-cheeked woman, who met us, "Well, and
+          what do you think, wife, if I have brought Mrs. Stowe and her party to take a
+          cup of tea with us?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were soon seated in a neat, clean kitchen, and our hostess
+          hastened to put the teakettle over the grate, lamenting that she had not known
+          of our coming, that she might have had a fire "ben the house," meaning by the
+          phrase what we Yankees mean by "in the best room." We caught a glimpse of the
+          carpet and paper of this room, when the door was opened to bring out a few more
+          chairs.</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Belyve the bairns cam dropping in,"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">rosy-cheeked, fresh from school, with satchel and school
+          books, to whom I was introduced as the mother of Topsy and Eva.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Ah," said the father, "such a time as we had, when we were
+          reading the book; whiles they were greetin' and whiles in a rage."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">My host was quite a young-looking man, with the clear blue eye
+          and glowing complexion which one so often meets here; and his wife, with her
+          blooming cheeks, neat dress, and well-kept house, was evidently one of those
+          fully competent</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"To gar old claes look amaist as weel as new."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I inquired the ages of the several children, to which the
+          father answered with about as much chronological accuracy as men generally
+          display in such points of family history. The gude wife, after correcting his
+          figures once or twice, turned away with a somewhat indignant exclamation about
+          men that didn't know their own bairns' ages, in which many of us, I presume,
+          could sympathize.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I must not omit to say, that a neighbor of our host had been
+          pressed to come in with us; an intelligent-looking man, about fifty. In the
+          course of conversation, I found that they were both masons by trade, and as the
+          rain had prevented their working, they had met to spend their time in reading.
+          They said they were reading a work on America; and thereat followed a good deal
+          of general conversation on our country. I found that, like many others in this
+          old country, they had a tie to connect them with the new&mdash;a son in
+          America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One of our company, in the course of the conversation, says,
+          "They say in America that the working classes of England and Scotland are not
+          so well off as the slaves." The man's eye flashed. "There are many things," he
+          said, "about the working classes, which are not what they should be; there's
+          room for a great deal of improvement in our condition, but," he added with an
+          emphasis, "we are <em>no slaves!</em>" There was a, touch, of the</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Scots wha ha' wi' Wallace bled"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">about the man, as he spoke, which made the affirmation
+          quite unnecessary.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"But," said I, "you think the affairs of the working classes
+          much improved of late years?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"O, certainly," said the other; "since the repeal of the corn
+          laws and the passage of the factory bill, and this emigration to America and
+          Australia, affairs have been very much altered."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We asked them what they could make a day by their trade. It was
+          much less, certainly, than is paid for the same labor in our country; but yet
+          the air of comfort and respectability about the cottage, the well-clothed and
+          well-schooled, intelligent children, spoke well for the result of their
+          labors.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">While our conversation was carried on, the teakettle commenced
+          singing most melodiously, and by a mutual system of accommodation, a neat tea
+          table was spread in the midst of us, and we soon found ourselves seated,
+          enjoying some delicious bread and butter, with the garniture of cheese,
+          preserves, and tea. Our host before the meal craved a blessing of Him who had
+          made of one blood all the families of the earth; a beautiful and touching
+          allusion, I thought, between Americans and Scotchmen. Our long ramble in the
+          rain had given us something of an appetite, and we did ample justice to the
+          excellence of the cheer.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After tea we walked on down again towards the Tweed, our host
+          and his friends waiting on us to the boat. As we passed through the village of
+          Dryburgh, all the inhabitants of the cottages seemed to be standing in their
+          doors, bowing and smiling, and expressing their welcome in a gentle, kindly
+          way, that was quite touching.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we were walking towards the Tweed, the Eildon Hill, with its
+          three points, rose before us in the horizon. I thought of the words in the Lay
+          of the Last Minstrel:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Warrior, I could say to thee,</p>
+            <p class="l">The words that cleft Eildon Hill in three,</p>
+            <p class="l">And bridled the Tweed with a curb of stone."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I appealed to my friends if they knew any thing about the
+          tradition; I thought they seemed rather reluctant to speak of it. O, there was
+          some foolish story, they believed; they did not well know what it was.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The picturesque age of human childhood is gone by; men and women
+          cannot always be so accommodating as to believe unreasonable stories for the
+          convenience of poets.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At the Tweed the man with the skiff was waiting for us. In
+          parting with my friend, I said, "Farewell. I hope we may meet again some
+          time."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I am sure we shall, madam," said he; "if not here, certainly
+          hereafter."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After being rowed across I stopped a few moments to admire the
+          rippling of the clear water over the pebbles. "I want some of these pebbles of
+          the Tweed," I said, "to carry home to America." Two hearty, rosy-cheeked Scotch
+          lasses on the shore soon supplied me with as many as I could carry.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We got into our carriage, and drove up to Melrose. After a
+          little negotiation with the keeper, the doors were unlocked. Just at that
+          moment the sun was so gracious as to give a full look through the windows, and
+          touch with streaks of gold the green, grassy floor; for the beautiful ruin is
+          floored with green grass and roofed with sky: even poetry has not exaggerated
+          its beauty, and could not. There is never any end to the charms of Gothic
+          architecture. It is like the beauty of Cleopatra,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Age cannot wither, custom, cannot stale</p>
+            <p class="l">Her infinite variety."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Here is this Melrose, now, which has been berhymed,
+          bedraggled through infinite guide books, and been gaped at and smoked at by
+          dandies, and been called a "dear love" by pretty young ladies, and been hawked
+          about as a trade article in all neighboring shops, and you know perfectly well
+          that all your raptures are spoken for and expected at the door, and your going
+          off in an ecstasy is a regular part of the programme; and yet, after all, the
+          sad, wild, sweet beauty of the thing comes down on one like a cloud; even for
+          the sake of being original you could not, in conscience, declare you did not
+          admire it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went into a minute examination with our guide, a young man,
+          who seemed to have a full sense of its peculiar beauties. I must say here, that
+          Walter Scott's description in the Lay of the Last Minstrel is as perfect in
+          most details as if it had been written by an architect as well as a
+          poet&mdash;it is a kind of glorified daguerreotype.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This building was the first of the elaborate and fanciful Gothic
+          which I had seen, and is said to excel in the delicacy of its carving any
+          except Roslin Castle. As a specimen of the exactness of Scott's description,
+          take this verse, where he speaks of the cloisters:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Spreading herbs and flowerets bright,</p>
+            <p class="l">Glistened with the dew of night,</p>
+            <p class="l">Nor herb nor floweret glistened there,</p>
+            <p class="l">But were carved in the cloister arches as fair."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">These cloisters were covered porticoes surrounding the
+          garden, where the monks walked for exercise. They are now mostly destroyed, but
+          our guide showed us the remains of exquisite carvings there, in which each
+          group was an imitation of some leaf or flower, such as the curly kail of
+          Scotland; a leaf, by the by, as worthy of imitation as the Greek acanthus, the
+          trefoil oak, and some other leaves, the names of which I do not remember. These
+          Gothic artificers were lovers of nature; they studied at the fountain head;
+          hence the never-dying freshness, variety, and originality of their
+          conceptions.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Another passage, whose architectural accuracy you feel at once,
+          is this:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"They entered now the chancel tall;</p>
+            <p class="l">The darkened, roof rose high, aloof</p>
+            <p class="l">On pillars lofty, light, and small:</p>
+            <p class="l">The keystone that locked, each ribbed aisle</p>
+            <p class="l">Was a fleur-de-lis, or a quatre-feuille;</p>
+            <p class="l">The corbels were carved grotesque and grim;</p>
+            <p class="l">And the pillars, with, clustered shafts so trim,</p>
+            <p class="l">With, base and with capital flourished around,</p>
+            <p class="l">Seemed bundles of lances which garlands had bound."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The quatre-feuille here spoken of is an ornament formed by
+          the junction of four leaves. The frequent recurrence of the fleur-de-lis in the
+          carvings here shows traces of French hands employed in the architecture. In one
+          place in the abbey there is a rude inscription, in which a French architect
+          commemorates the part he has borne in constructing the building.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These corbels are the projections from which, the arches spring,
+          usually carved in some fantastic mask or face; and on these the Shakspearian
+          imagination of the Gothic artists seems to have let itself loose to run riot:
+          there is every variety of expression, from, the most beautiful to the most
+          goblin and grotesque. One has the leer of fiendish triumph, with budding horns,
+          showing too plainly his paternity; again you have the drooping eyelids and
+          saintly features of some fair virgin; and then the gasping face of some old
+          monk, apparently in the agonies of death, with his toothless gums, hollow
+          cheeks, and sunken eyes. Other faces have an earthly and sensual leer; some are
+          wrought into expressions of scorn and mockery, some of supplicating agony, and
+          some of grim, despair.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One wonders what gloomy, sarcastic, poetic, passionate mind has
+          thus amused itself, recording in stone all the range of passions&mdash;saintly,
+          earthly, and diabolic&mdash;on the varying human face. One fancies each corbel
+          to have had its history, its archetype in nature; a thousand possible stories
+          spring into one's mind. They are wrought with such a startling and individual
+          definiteness, that one feels as about Shakspeare's characters, as if they must
+          have had a counterpart in real existence. The pure, saintly nun may have been
+          some sister, or some daughter, or some early love, of the artist, who in an
+          evil hour saw the convent barriers rise between her and all that was loving.
+          The fat, sensual face may have been a sly sarcasm on some worthy abbot, more
+          eminent in flesh than spirit. The fiendish faces may have been wrought out of
+          the author's own perturbed dreams.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">An architectural work says that one of these corbels, with an
+          anxious and sinister Oriental countenance, has been made, by the guides, to
+          perform duty as an authentic likeness of the wizard Michael Scott. Now, I must
+          earnestly protest against stating things in that way. Why does a writer want to
+          break up so laudable a poetic design in the guides? He would have been much
+          better occupied in interpreting some of the half-defaced old inscriptions into
+          a corroborative account. No doubt it <em>was</em> Michael Scott, and looked
+          just like him.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It were a fine field for a story writer to analyze the
+          conception and growth of an abbey or cathedral as it formed itself, day after
+          day, and year after year, in the soul of some dreamy, impassioned workman, who
+          made it the note book where he wrought out imperishably in stone all his
+          observations on nature and man. I think it is this strong individualism of the
+          architect in the buildings that give the never-dying charm, and variety to the
+          Gothic: each Gothic building is a record of the growth, character, and
+          individualities of its builder's soul; and hence no two can be alike.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I was really disappointed to miss in the abbey the stained glass
+          which gives such a lustre and glow to the poetic description. I might have
+          known better; but somehow I came there fully expecting to see the window,
+          where&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Full in the midst his cross of red</p>
+            <p class="l">Triumphant Michael brandished;</p>
+            <p class="l">The moonbeam kissed the holy pane,</p>
+            <p class="l">And threw on the pavement the bloody stain."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Alas! the painted glass was all of the poet's own setting;
+          years ago it was shattered by the hands of violence, and the grace of the
+          fashion of it hath perished.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The guide pointed to a broken fragment which commanded a view of
+          the whole interior. "Sir Walter used to sit here," he said. I fancied I could
+          see him sitting on the fragment, gazing around the ruin, and mentally restoring
+          it to its original splendor; he brings back the colored light into the windows,
+          and throws its many-hued reflections over the graves; he ranges the banners
+          along around the walls, and rebuilds every shattered arch and aisle, till we
+          have the picture as it rises on us in his book.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I confess to a strong feeling of reality, when my guide took me
+          to a grave where a flat, green, mossy stone, broken across the middle, is
+          reputed to be the grave of Michael Scott. I felt, for the moment, verily
+          persuaded that if the guide would pry up one of the stones we should see him
+          there, as described:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"His hoary beard in silver rolled,</p>
+            <p class="l">He seemed some seventy winters old;</p>
+            <p class="l">A palmer's amice wrapped, him round,</p>
+            <p class="l">With a wrought Spanish baldric bound,</p>
+            <p class="l">Like a pilgrim from beyond the sea:</p>
+            <p class="l">His left hand held his book of might;</p>
+            <p class="l">A silver cross was in his right;</p>
+            <p class="l">The lamp was placed beside his knee:</p>
+            <p class="l">High and majestic was his look,</p>
+            <p class="l">At which, the fellest fiends had shook,</p>
+            <p class="l">And all unruffled, was his face:</p>
+            <p class="l">They trusted his soul had gotten grace."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I never knew before how fervent a believer I had been in
+          the realities of these things.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There are two graves that I saw, which correspond to those
+          mentioned in these lines:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"And there the dying lamps did burn</p>
+            <p class="l">Before thy lone and lowly urn,</p>
+            <p class="l">O gallafit chief of Otterburne,</p>
+            <p class="l">And thine, dark knight of Liddesdale."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The Knight of Otterburne was one of the Earls Douglas,
+          killed in a battle with Henry Percy, called Hotspur, in 1388. The Knight of
+          Liddesdale was another Douglas, who lived in the reign of David II., and was
+          called the "Flower of Chivalry." One performance of this "Flower" is rather
+          characteristic of the times. It seems the king made one Ramsey high sheriff of
+          Teviotdale. The Earl of Douglas chose to consider this as a personal affront,
+          as he wanted the office himself. So, by way of exhibiting his own
+          qualifications for administering justice, he one day came down on Ramsey,
+          <em>vi et armis</em>, took him off his judgment seat, carried him to one of his
+          castles, and without more words tumbled him and his horse into a deep dungeon,
+          where they both starved to death. There's a "Flower" for you, peculiar to the
+          good old times. Nobody could have doubted after this his qualifications to be
+          high sheriff.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Having looked all over the abbey from, below, I noticed a
+          ruinous winding staircase; so up I went, rustling along through the ivy, which
+          matted and wove itself around the stones. Soon I found myself looking down on
+          the abbey from a new point of view&mdash;from a little narrow stone gallery,
+          which threads the whole inside of the building. There I paced up and down,
+          looking occasionally through the ivy-wreathed arches on the green, turfy floor
+          below.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It seems as if silence and stillness had become a real presence
+          in these old places. The voice of the guide and the company beneath had a
+          hushed and muffled sound; and when I rustled the ivy leaves, or, in trying to
+          break off a branch, loosened some fragment of stone, the sound affected me with
+          a startling distinctness. I could not but inly muse and wonder on the life
+          these old monks and abbots led, shrined up here as they were in this lovely
+          retirement.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In ruder ages these places were the only retreat for men of a
+          spirit too gentle to take force and bloodshed for their life's work; men who
+          believed that pen and parchment were better than sword and steel. Here I
+          suppose multitudes of them lived harmless, dreamy lives&mdash;reading old
+          manuscripts, copying and illuminating new ones.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is said that this Melrose is of very ancient origin,
+          extending back to the time of the Culdees, the earliest missionaries who
+          established religion in Scotland, and who had a settlement in this vicinity.
+          However, a royal saint, after a while, took it in hand to patronize, and of
+          course the credit went to him, and from, him Scott calls it "St. David's lonely
+          pile." In time a body of Cistercian monks were settled there.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">According to all accounts the abbey has raised some famous
+          saints. We read of trances, illuminations, and miraculous beatifications; and
+          of one abbot in particular, who exhibited the odor of sanctity so strongly that
+          it is said the mere opening of his grave, at intervals, was sufficient to
+          perfume the whole establishment with odors of paradise. Such stories apart,
+          however, we must consider that for all the literature, art, and love of the
+          beautiful, all the humanizing influences which hold society together, the world
+          was for many ages indebted to these monastic institutions.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the reformation, this abbey was destroyed amid the general
+          storm, which attacked the ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland. "Pull down
+          the nest, and the rooks will fly away," was the common saying of the mob; and
+          in those days a man was famous according as he had lifted up axes upon the
+          carved work.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Melrose was considered for many years merely a stone quarry,
+          from which materials were taken for all sorts of buildings, such as
+          constructing tolbooths, repairing mills and sluices; and it has been only till
+          a comparatively recent period that its priceless value as an architectural
+          remain has led to proper efforts for its preservation. It is now most carefully
+          kept.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After wandering through the inside we walked out into the old
+          graveyard, to look at the outside. The yard is full of old, curious, mouldering
+          gravestones; and on one of them there is an inscription sad and peculiar enough
+          to have come from the heart of the architect who planned the abbey; it runs as
+          follows:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The earth walks on the earth, glittering with gold;</p>
+            <p class="l">The earth goes to the earth sooner than it wold;</p>
+            <p class="l">The earth, builds on the earth, castles and towers;</p>
+            <p class="l">The earth, says to the earth, All shall be ours."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="dgp">Here, also, we were interested in a plain marble slab, which
+          marks the last resting-place of Scott's faithful Tom Purdie, his zealous
+          factotum. In his diary, when he hears of the wreck of his fortunes, Scott says
+          of this serving man, "Poor Tom Purdie, such news will wring your heart, and
+          many a poor fellow's beside, to whom my prosperity was daily bread."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One fancies again the picture described by Lockhart, the strong,
+          lank frame, hard features, sunken eyes, and grizzled eyebrows, the green
+          jacket, white hat, and gray trousers&mdash;the outer appointments of the
+          faithful serving man. One sees Scott walking familiarly by his side, staying
+          himself on Tom's shoulder, while Tom talks with glee of "<em>our</em> trees,"
+          and "<em>our</em> bukes." One sees the little skirmishing, when master wants
+          trees planted one way and man sees best to plant them another; and the
+          magnanimity with which kindly, cross-grained Tom at last agrees, on reflection,
+          to "take his honor's advice" about the management of his honor's own property.
+          Here, between master and man, both freemen, is all that beauty of relation
+          sometimes erroneously considered as the peculiar charm of slavery. Would it
+          have made the relation any more picturesque and endearing had Tom been stripped
+          of legal rights, and made liable to sale with the books and furniture of
+          Abbotsford? Poor Tom is sleeping here very quietly, with a smooth coverlet of
+          green grass. Over him is the following inscription: "Here lies the body of
+          Thomas Purdie, wood forester at Abbotsford, who died 29th October, 1829, aged
+          sixty-two years. Thou hast been faithful over a few things; I will make thee
+          ruler over many things." Matt. xxv. 21.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We walked up, and down, and about, getting the best views of the
+          building. It is scarcely possible for description to give you the picture. The
+          artist, in whose mind the conception of this building arose, was a Mozart in
+          architecture; a plaintive and ethereal lightness, a fanciful quaintness,
+          pervaded his composition. The building is not a large one, and it has not that
+          air of solemn massive grandeur, that plain majesty, which impresses you in the
+          cathedrals of Aberdeen and Glasgow. As you stand looking at the wilderness of
+          minarets and flying buttresses, the multiplied shrines, and mouldings, and
+          cornices, all incrusted with carving as endless in its variety as the frostwork
+          on a window pane; each shrine, each pinnace, each moulding, a study by itself,
+          yet each contributing, like the different strains of a harmony, to the general
+          effect of the whole; it seems to you that for a thing so airy and spiritual to
+          have sprung up by enchantment, and to have been the product of spells and fairy
+          fingers, is no improbable account of the matter.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Speaking of gargoyles&mdash;you are no architect, neither am I,
+          but you may as well get used to this descriptive term; it means the
+          water-spouts which conduct the water from the gutters at the eaves of these
+          buildings, and which are carved in every grotesque and fanciful device that can
+          be imagined. They are mostly goblin and fiendish faces, and look as if they
+          were darting out of the church in a towering passion, or a fit of diabolic
+          disgust and malice. Besides these gargoyles, there are in many other points of
+          the external building representations of fiendish faces and figures, as if in
+          the act of flying from the building, under the influence of a terrible spell:
+          by this, as my guide said, was expressed the idea that the holy hymns and
+          worship of the church put Satan and all his forces to rout, and made all that
+          was evil flee.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One remark on this building, in Billings's architectural account
+          of it, interested me; and that is, that it is finished with the most
+          circumstantial elegance and minuteness in those concealed portions which are
+          excluded, from public view, and which can only be inspected by laborious
+          climbing or groping; and he accounts for this by the idea that the whole
+          carving and execution was considered as an act of solemn worship and adoration,
+          in which the artist offered up his best faculties to the praise of the
+          Creator.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image18.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">After lingering a while here, we went home to our inn or hotel.
+          Now, these hotels in the small towns of England, if this is any specimen, are
+          delightful affairs for travellers, they are so comfortable and home-like. Our
+          snug little parlor was radiant with the light of the coal grate; our table
+          stood before it, with its bright silver, white cloth, and delicate china cups;
+          and then such a dish of mutton chops! My dear, we are all mortal, and emotions
+          of the beautiful and sublime tend especially to make one hungry. We, therefore,
+          comforted ourselves over the instability of earthly affairs, and the transitory
+          nature of all human grandeur, by consolatory remarks on the <em>present</em>
+          whiteness of the bread, the sweetness of the butter; and as to the chops, all
+          declared, with one voice, that such mutton was a thing unknown in America. I
+          moved an emendation, except on the sea coast of Maine. We resolved to cherish
+          the memory of our little hostess in our heart of hearts, and as we gathered
+          round the cheery grate, drying our cold feet, we voted that poetry was a
+          humbug, and damp, old, musty cathedrals a bore. Such are the inconsistencies of
+          human nature!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Nevertheless," said I to S&mdash;&mdash;, after dinner, "I am
+          going back again to-night, to see that abbey by moonlight. I intend to walk the
+          whole figure while I am about it."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Just on the verge of twilight I stepped out, to see what the
+          town afforded in the way of relics. To say the truth, my eye had been caught by
+          some cunning little tubs and pails in a window, which I thought might be valued
+          in the home department. I went into a shop, where an auld wife soon appeared,
+          who, in reply to my inquiries, told me, that the said little tubs and pails
+          were made of plum tree wood from Dryburgh Abbey, and, of course, partook of the
+          sanctity of relics. She and her husband seemed to be driving a thriving trade
+          in the article, and either plum trees must be very abundant at Dryburgh, or
+          what there are must be gifted with that power of self-multiplication which
+          inheres in the wood of the true Cross. I bought them in blind faith, however,
+          suppressing all rationalistic doubts, as a good relic hunter should.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I went up into a little room where an elderly woman professed to
+          have quite a collection of the Melrose relics. Some years ago extensive
+          restorations and repairs were made in the old abbey, in which Walter Scott took
+          a deep interest. At that time, when the scaffolding was up for repairing the
+          building, as I understood, Scott had the plaster casts made of different parts,
+          which he afterwards incorporated into his own dwelling at Abbotsford. I said to
+          the good woman that I had understood by Washington Irving's account, that Scott
+          appropriated <em>bona fide</em> fragments of the building, and alluded to the
+          account which he gives of the little red sandstone lion from Melrose. She
+          repelled the idea with great energy, and said she had often heard Sir Walter
+          say, that he would not carry off a bit of the building as big as his thumb. She
+          showed me several plaster casts that she had in her possession, which were
+          taken at this time. There were several corbels there; one was the head of an
+          old monk, and looked as if it might have been a mask taken of his face the
+          moment after death; the eyes were hollow and sunken, the cheeks fallen in, the
+          mouth lying helplessly open, showing one or two melancholy old stumps of teeth.
+          I wondered over this, whether it really was the fac-simile of some poor old
+          Father Ambrose, or Father Francis, whose disconsolate look, after his death
+          agony, had so struck the gloomy fancy of the artist as to lead him to
+          immortalize him in a corbel, for a lasting admonition to his fat worldly
+          brethren; for if we may trust the old song, these monks of Melrose had rather a
+          suspicious reputation in the matter of worldly conformity. The impudent ballad
+          says,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"O, the monks of Melrose, they made good, kail</p>
+            <p class="l">On Fridays, when they fasted;</p>
+            <p class="l">They never wanted beef or ale</p>
+            <p class="l">As long as their neighbors' lasted."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Naughty, roistering fellows! I thought I could perceive how
+          this poor Father Francis had worn his life out exhorting them to repentance,
+          and given up the ghost at last in despair, and so been made at once into a
+          saint and a corbel.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were fragments of tracery, of mouldings and cornices, and
+          grotesque bits of architecture there, which I would have given a good deal to
+          be the possessor of. Stepping into a little cottage hard by to speak to the
+          guide about unlocking the gates, when we went out on our moonlight excursion at
+          midnight, I caught a glimpse, in an inner apartment, of a splendid, large,
+          black dog. I gave one exclamation and jump, and was into the room after
+          him.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Ah," said the old man, "that was just like Sir Walter; he
+          always had an eye for a dog."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It gave me a kind of pain to think of him and his dogs, all
+          lying in the dust together; and yet it was pleasant to hear this little remark
+          of him, as if it were made by those who had often seen, and were fond of
+          thinking of him. The dog's name was Coal, and he was black enough, and
+          remarkable enough, to make a figure in a story&mdash;a genuine Melrose Abbey
+          dog. I should not wonder if he were a descendant, in a remote degree, of the
+          "mauthe doog," that supernatural beast, which Scott commemorates in his notes.
+          The least touch in the world of such blood in his veins would be, of course, an
+          appropriate circumstance in a dog belonging to an old ruined abbey.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Well, I got home, and narrated my adventures to my friends, and
+          showed them my reliquary purchases, and declared my strengthening intention to
+          make my ghostly visit by moonlight, if there was any moon to be had that night,
+          which was a doubtful possibility.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the course of the evening came in Mr. &mdash;&mdash;, who had
+          volunteered his services as guide and attendant during the interesting
+          operation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"When does the moon rise?" said one.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"O, a little after eleven o'clock, I believe," said Mr.
+          &mdash;&mdash;.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Some of the party gaped portentously.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"You know," said I, "Scott says we must see it by moonlight; it
+          is one of the proprieties of the place, as I understand."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"How exquisite that description is, of the effect of moonlight!"
+          says another.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I think it probable," says Mr. &mdash;&mdash;, dryly, "that
+          Scott never saw it by moonlight himself. He was a man of very regular habits,
+          and seldom went out evenings."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The blank amazement with which this communication was received
+          set S&mdash;&mdash; into an inextinguishable fit of laughter.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"But do you really believe he never saw it?" said I, rather
+          crestfallen.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Well," said the gentleman, "I have heard him charged with never
+          having seen it, and he never denied it."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Knowing that Scott really was as practical a man as Dr.
+          Franklin, and as little disposed to poetic extravagances, and an exceedingly
+          sensible, family kind of person, I thought very probably this might be true,
+          unless he had seen it some time in his early youth. Most likely good Mrs. Scott
+          never would have let him commit the impropriety that we were about to, and run
+          the risk of catching the rheumatism by going out to see how an old abbey looked
+          at twelve o'clock at night.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We waited for the moon to rise, and of course it did not rise;
+          nothing ever does when it is waited for. We went to one window, and went to
+          another; half past eleven came, and no moon. "Let us give it up," said I,
+          feeling rather foolish. However, we agreed to wait another quarter of an hour,
+          and finally Mr. &mdash;&mdash; announced that the moon <em>was</em> risen; the
+          only reason we did not see it was, because it was behind the Eildon Hills. So
+          we voted to consider her risen at any rate, and started out in the dark,
+          threading the narrow streets of the village with the comforting reflection that
+          we were doing what Sir Walter would think rather a silly thing. When we got out
+          before the abbey there was enough light behind the Eildon Hills to throw their
+          three shadowy cones out distinctly to view, and to touch with a gloaming,
+          uncertain ray the ivy-clad walls. As we stood before the abbey, the guide
+          fumbling with his keys, and finally heard the old lock clash as the door slowly
+          opened to admit us, I felt a little shiver of the ghostly come over me, just
+          enough to make it agreeable.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the daytime we had criticized Walter Scott's moonlight
+          description in the lines which say,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The distant Tweed is heard, to rave,</p>
+            <p class="l">And the owlet to hoot o'er the dead man's grave."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">"We hear nothing of the Tweed, at any rate," said we; "that
+          must be a poetic license." But now at midnight, as we walked silently through
+          the mouldering aisles, the brawl of the Tweed was so distinctly heard that it
+          seemed as if it was close by the old, lonely pile; nor can any term describe
+          the sound more exactly than the word "rave," which the poet has chosen. It was
+          the precise accuracy of this little item of description which made me feel as
+          if Scott must have been here in the night. I walked up into the old chancel,
+          and sat down where William of Deloraine and the monk sat, on the Scottish
+          monarch's tomb, and thought over the words</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Strange sounds along the chancel passed,</p>
+            <p class="l">And banners wave without a blast;</p>
+            <p class="l">Still spake the monk when the bell tolled one."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">And while we were there the bell tolled twelve.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">And then we went to Michael Scott's grave, and we looked through
+          the east oriel, with its</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Slender shafts of shapely stone,</p>
+            <p class="l">By foliage tracery combined."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The fanciful outlines showed all the more distinctly for
+          the entire darkness within, and the gloaming moonlight without. The tall arches
+          seemed higher in their dimness, and vaster than they did in the daytime.
+          "Hark!" said I; "what's that?" as we heard a rustling and flutter of wings in
+          the ivy branches over our heads. Only a couple of rooks, whose antiquarian
+          slumbers were disturbed by the unwonted noise there at midnight, and who rose
+          and flew away, rattling down some fragments of the ruin as they went. It was
+          somewhat odd, but I could not help fancying, what if these strange, goblin
+          rooks were the spirits of old monks coming back to nestle and brood among their
+          ancient cloisters! Rooks are a ghostly sort of bird. I think they were made on
+          purpose to live in old yew trees and ivy, as much as yew trees and ivy were to
+          grow round old churches and abbeys. If we once could get inside of a rook's
+          skull, to find out what he is thinking of, I'll warrant that we should know a
+          great deal more about these old buildings than we do now. I should not wonder
+          if there were long traditionary histories handed down from one generation of
+          rooks to another, and that these are what they are talking about when we think
+          they are only chattering. I imagine I see the whole black fraternity the next
+          day, sitting, one on a gargoyle, one on a buttress, another on a shrine,
+          gossiping over the event of our nightly visit.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image19.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">We walked up and down the long aisles, and groped out into the
+          cloisters; and then I thought, to get the full ghostliness of the thing, we
+          would go up the old, ruined staircase into the long galleries, that</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Midway thread the abbey wall."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">We got about half way up, when there came into our faces
+          one of those sudden, passionate puffs of mist and rain which Scotch clouds seem
+          to have the faculty of getting up at a minute's notice. Whish! came the wind in
+          our faces, like the rustling of a whole army of spirits down the staircase;
+          whereat we all tumbled back promiscuously on to each other, and concluded we
+          would not go up. In fact we had done the thing, and so we went home; and I
+          dreamed of arches, and corbels, and gargoyles all night. And so, farewell to
+          Melrose Abbey.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_26" name="toc_26"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter IX</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">Edinburgh</span>, April.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          Sister</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. S. and C&mdash;&mdash; returned from their trip to Glasgow
+          much delighted with the prospects indicated by the results of the temperance
+          meetings they attended there.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">They were present at the meeting of the Scottish Temperance
+          League, in an audience of about four thousand people. The reports were
+          encouraging, and the feeling enthusiastic. One hundred and eighty ministers are
+          on the list of the League, forming a nucleus of able, talented, and determined
+          operators. It is the intention to make a movement for a law which shall secure
+          to Scotland some of the benefits of the Maine law.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It appears to me that on the questions of temperance and
+          antislavery, the religious communities of the two countries are in a situation
+          mutually to benefit each other. Our church and ministry have been through a
+          long struggle and warfare on this temperance question, in which a very valuable
+          experience has been, elaborated. The religious people of Great Britain, on the
+          contrary, have led on to a successful result a great antislavery experiment,
+          wherein their experience and success can be equally beneficial and encouraging
+          to us.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The day after we returned from Melrose we spent in resting and
+          riding about, as we had two engagements in the evening&mdash;one at a party at
+          the house of Mr. Douglas, of Cavers, and the other at a public temperance
+          <em>soir&eacute;e</em>. Mr. Douglas is the author of several works which have
+          excited attention; but perhaps you will remember him best by his treatise on
+          the Advancement of Society in Religion and Knowledge. He is what is called here
+          a "laird," a man of good family, a large landed proprietor, a zealous reformer,
+          and a very devout man.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went early to spend a short time with the family. I was a
+          little surprised, as I entered the hall, to find myself in the midst of a large
+          circle of well-dressed men and women, who stood apparently waiting to receive
+          us, and who bowed, courtesied, and smiled as we came in. Mrs. D. apologized to
+          me afterwards, saying that these were the servants of the family, that they
+          were exceedingly anxious to see me, and so she had allowed them all to come
+          into the hall. They were so respectable in their appearance, and so neatly
+          dressed, that I might almost have mistaken them for visitors.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We had a very pleasant hour or two with the family, which I
+          enjoyed exceedingly. Mr. and Mrs. Douglas were full of the most considerate
+          kindness, and some of the daughters had intimate acquaintances in America. I
+          enjoy these little glimpses into family circles more than any thing else; there
+          is no warmth like fireside warmth.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening the rooms were filled. I should think all the
+          clergymen of Edinburgh must have been there, for I was introduced to ministers
+          without number. The Scotch have a good many little ways that are like ours;
+          they call their clergy ministers, as we do. There were many persons from
+          ancient families, distinguished in Scottish history both for rank and piety;
+          among others, Lady Carstairs, Sir Henry Moncrief and lady. There was also the
+          Countess of Gainsborough, one of the ladies of the queen's household, a very
+          beautiful woman with charming manners, reminding one of the line of
+          Pope&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Graceful ease, and sweetness void of pride."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I was introduced to Dr. John Brown, who is reckoned one of
+          the best exegetial scholars in Europe. He is small of stature, sprightly, and
+          pleasant in manners, but with a high bald forehead and snow-white hair.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were also many members of the faculty of the university. I
+          talked a little with Dr. Guthrie, whom I described in a former letter. I told
+          him that one thing which had been an agreeable disappointment to me was, the
+          apparent cordiality between the members of the Free and the National church. He
+          seemed to think that the wounds of the old conflict were, to a great extent,
+          healed. He spoke in high terms of the Duchess of Sutherland, her affability,
+          kindness, and considerateness to the poor. I forget from whom I received the
+          anecdote, but somebody told me this of her&mdash;that, one of her servants
+          having lost a relative, she had left a party where she was engaged, and gone in
+          the plainest attire and quietest way to attend the funeral. It was remarked
+          upon as showing her considerateness for the feelings of those in inferior
+          positions.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">About nine o'clock we left to go to the temperance
+          <em>soir&eacute;e</em>. It was in the same place, and conducted in the same
+          way, with the others which I have described. The lord provost presided, and one
+          or two of the working men who spoke in the former <em>soir&eacute;e</em> made
+          speeches, and very good ones too. The meeting was greatly enlivened by the
+          presence and speech of the jovial Lord Conynghame, who amused us all by the
+          gallant manner in which he expressed the warmth of Scottish welcome towards
+          "our American guests." If it had been in the old times of Scottish hospitality,
+          he said, he should have proposed a <em>bumper</em> three times three; but as
+          that could not be done in a temperance meeting, he proposed three cheers, in
+          which he led off with a hearty good will.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All that the Scotch people need now for the prosperity of their
+          country is the temperance reformation; and undoubtedly they will have it. They
+          have good sense and strength of mind enough to work out whatever they
+          choose.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went home tired enough.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next day we had a few calls to make, and an invitation from
+          Lady Drummond to visit "classic Hawthornden." Accordingly, in the forenoon, Mr.
+          S. and I called first on Lord and Lady Gainsborough; though, she is one of the
+          queen's household, she is staying here at Edinburgh, and the queen at Osborne.
+          I infer therefore that the appointment includes no very onerous duties. The
+          Earl of Gainsborough is the eldest brother of Rev. Baptist W. Noel.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Lady Gainsborough is the daughter of the Earl of Roden, who is
+          an Irish lord of the very strictest Calvinistic persuasion: He is a devout man,
+          and for many years, we were told, maintained a Calvinistic church of the
+          English establishment in Paris. While Mr. S. talked with Lord Gainsborough, I
+          talked with his lady, and Lady Roden, who was present. Lady Gainsborough
+          inquired about our schools for the poor, and how they were conducted. I
+          reflected a moment, and then answered that we had no schools for the poor as
+          such, but the common school was open alike to all classes.<a
+          href="#note_11"><span class="footnoteref">11</span></a></p>
+          <p class="dgp">In England and Scotland, in all classes, from the queen
+          downward, no movements are so popular as those for the education and elevation
+          of the poor; one is seldom in company without hearing the conversation turn
+          upon them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The conversation generally turned upon the condition of servants
+          in America. I said that one of the principal difficulties in American
+          housekeeping proceeded from the fact that there were so many other openings of
+          profit that very few were found willing to assume the position of the servant,
+          except as a temporary expedient; in fact, that the whole idea of service was
+          radically different, it being a mere temporary contract to render certain
+          services, not differing essentially from the contract of the mechanic or
+          tradesman. The ladies said they thought there could be no family feeling among
+          servants if that was the case; and I replied that, generally speaking, there
+          was none; that old and attached family servants in the free states were rare
+          exceptions.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This, I know, must look, to persons in old countries, like a
+          hard and discouraging feature of democracy. I regard it, however, as only a
+          temporary difficulty. Many institutions among us are in a transition state.
+          Gradually the whole subject of the relations of labor and the industrial
+          callings will assume a new form in America, and though we shall never be able
+          to command the kind of service secured in aristocratic countries, yet we shall
+          have that which will be as faithful and efficient. If domestic service can be
+          made as pleasant, profitable, and respectable as any of the industrial
+          callings, it will soon become as permanent.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our next visit was to Sir William Hamilton and lady. Sir William
+          is the able successor of Dugald Stewart and Dr. Brown in the chair of
+          intellectual philosophy. His writings have had a wide circulation in America.
+          He is a man of noble presence, though we were sorry to see that he was
+          suffering from ill health. It seems to me that Scotland bears that relation to
+          England, with regard to metaphysical inquiry, that New England does to the rest
+          of the United States. If one counts over the names of distinguished
+          metaphysicians, the Scotch, as compared with the English, number three to
+          one&mdash;Reid, Stewart, Brown, all Scotchmen.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Sir William still writes and lectures. He and Mr. S. were soon
+          discoursing on German, English, Scotch, and American metaphysics, while I was
+          talking with Lady Hamilton and her daughters. After we came away Mr. S. said,
+          that no man living had so thoroughly understood and analyzed the German
+          philosophy. He said that Sir William spoke of a call which he had received from
+          Professor Park, of Andover, and expressed himself in high terms of his
+          metaphysical powers.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After that we went to call on George Combe, the physiologist. We
+          found him and Mrs. Combe in a pleasant, sunny parlor, where, among other
+          objects of artistic interest, we saw a very fine engraving of Mrs. Siddons. I
+          was not aware until after leaving that Mrs. Combe is her daughter. Mr. Combe,
+          though somewhat advanced, seems full of life and animation, and conversed with
+          a great deal of warmth and interest on America, where he made a tour some years
+          since. Like other men in Europe who sympathize in our progress, he was sanguine
+          in the hope that the downfall of slavery must come at no distant date.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After a pleasant chat here we came home; and after an interval
+          of rest the carriage was at the door for Hawthornden. It is about seven miles
+          out from Edinburgh. It is a most romantic spot, on the banks of the River Esk,
+          now the seat of Mr. James Walker Drummond. Scott has sung in the ballad of the
+          Gray Brother,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">Sweet are the paths, O, passing sweet,</p>
+            <p class="l">By Esk's fair streams that run,</p>
+            <p class="l">O'er airy steep, through copse-woods deep,</p>
+            <p class="l">Impervious to the sun.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">Who knows not Melville's beechy grove,</p>
+            <p class="l">And Roslin's rocky glen,</p>
+            <p class="l">Dalkeith, which all the virtues love,</p>
+            <p class="l">And classic Hawthornden?</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">"Melville's beechy grove" is an allusion to the grounds of
+          Lord Melville, through which we drove on our way. The beech trees here are
+          magnificent; fully equal to any trees of the sort which I have seen in our
+          American forests, and they were in full leaf. They do not grow so high, but
+          have more breadth and a wider sweep of branches; on the whole they are well
+          worthy of a place in song.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image20.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">I know in my childhood I often used to wish that I could live in
+          a ruined castle; and this Hawthornden would be the very beau ideal of one as a
+          romantic dwelling-place. It is an old castellated house, perched on the airy
+          verge of a precipice, directly over the beautiful River Esk, looking down one
+          of the most romantic glens in Scotland. Part of it is in ruins, and, hung with
+          wreaths of ivy, it seems to stand just to look picturesque. The house itself,
+          with its quaint, high gables, and gray, antique walls, appears old enough to
+          take you back to the times of William Wallace. It is situated within an hour's
+          walk of Roslin Castle and Chapel, one of the most beautiful and poetic
+          architectural remains in Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our drive to the place was charming. It was a showery day; but
+          every few moments the sun blinked out, smiling through the falling rain, and
+          making the wet leaves glitter, and the raindrops wink at each other in the most
+          sociable manner possible. Arrived at the house, our friend, Miss
+          S&mdash;&mdash;, took us into a beautiful parlor overhanging the glen, each
+          window of which commanded a picture better than was ever made on canvas.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We had a little chat with Lady Drummond, and then we went down
+          to examine the caverns,&mdash;for there are caverns under the house, with long
+          galleries and passages running from them through the rocks, some way down the
+          river. Several apartments are hollowed out here in the rock on which the house
+          is founded, which they told us belonged to Bruce; the tradition being, that he
+          was hidden here for some months. There was his bed room, dining room, sitting
+          room, and a very curious apartment where the walls were all honeycombed into
+          little partitions, which they called his library, these little partitions being
+          his book shelves. There are small loophole windows in these apartments, where
+          you can look up and down the glen, and enjoy a magnificent prospect. For my
+          part, I thought if I were Bruce, sitting there with a book in my lap, listening
+          to the gentle brawl of the Esk, looking up and down the glen, watching the
+          shaking raindrops on the oaks, the birches and beeches, I should have thought
+          that was better than fighting, and that my pleasant little cave was as good an
+          arbor on the Hill Difficulty as ever mortal man enjoyed.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is a ponderous old two-handed sword kept here, said to
+          have belonged to Sir William Wallace. It is considerably shorter than it was
+          originally, but, resting on its point, it reached to the chin of a good six
+          foot gentleman of our party. The handle is made of the horn of a sea-horse, (if
+          you know what that is,) and has a heavy iron ball at the end. It must
+          altogether have weighed some ten or twelve pounds. Think of a man hewing away
+          <em>on men</em> with this!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is a well in this cavern, down which we were directed to
+          look and observe a hole in the side; this we were told was the entrance to
+          another set of caverns and chambers under those in which we were, and to
+          passages which extended down and opened out into the valley. In the olden days
+          the approach to these caverns was not through the house, but through the side
+          of a deep well sunk in the court yard, which communicates through a
+          subterranean passage with this well. Those seeking entrance were let down by a
+          windlass into the well in the court yard, and drawn up by a windlass into this
+          cavern. There was no such accommodation at present, but we were told some
+          enterprising tourists had explored the lower caverns. Pleasant kind of times
+          those old days must have been, when houses had to be built like a rabbit
+          burrow, with all these accommodations for concealment and escape.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After exploring the caverns we came up into the parlors again,
+          and Miss S. showed me a Scottish album, in which were all sorts of sketches,
+          memorials, autographs, and other such matters. What interested me more, she was
+          making a collection of Scottish ballads, words and tunes. I told her that I had
+          noticed, since I had been in Scotland, that the young ladies seemed to take
+          very little interest in the national Scotch airs, and were all devoted to
+          Italian; moreover, that the Scotch ballads and memories, which so interested
+          me, seemed to have very little interest for people generally in Scotland. Miss
+          S. was warm enough in her zeal to make up a considerable account, and so we got
+          on well together.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">While we were sitting, chatting, two young ladies came in, who
+          had walked up the glen despite the showery day. They were protected by good,
+          substantial outer garments, of a kind of shag or plush, and so did not fear the
+          rain. I wanted to walk down to Roslin Castle, but the party told me there would
+          not be time this afternoon, as we should have to return at a certain hour. I
+          should not have been reconciled to this, had not another excursion been
+          proposed for the purpose of exploring Roslin.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">However, I determined to go a little way down the glen, and get
+          a distant view of it, and my fair friends, the young ladies, offered to
+          accompany me; so off we started down the winding paths, which were cut among
+          the banks overhanging the Esk. The ground was starred over with patches of
+          pale-yellow primroses, and for the first time I saw the heather, spreading over
+          rocks and matting itself around the roots of trees. My companions, to whom it
+          was the commonest thing in the world, could hardly appreciate the delight which
+          I felt in looking at it; it was not in flower; I believe it does not blossom
+          till some time in July or August. We have often seen it in greenhouses, and it
+          is so hardy that it is singular it will not grow wild in America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We walked, ran, and scrambled to an eminence which commanded a
+          view of Roslin Chapel, the only view, I fear, which will ever gladden my eyes,
+          for the promised expedition to it dissolved itself into mist. When on the hill
+          top, so that I could see the chapel at a distance, I stood thinking over the
+          ballad of Harold, in the Lay of the Last Minstrel, and the fate of the lovely
+          Rosabel, and saying over to myself the last verses of the ballad:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"O'er Roslin, all that dreary night,</p>
+            <p class="l">A wondrous blaze was seen to gleam;</p>
+            <p class="l">'Twas broader than the watchfire's light,</p>
+            <p class="l">And redder than the bright moonbeam.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">It glared on Roslin's castled rock,</p>
+            <p class="l">It ruddied, all the copsewood glen;</p>
+            <p class="l">'Twas seen from Deyden's groves of oak,</p>
+            <p class="l">And seen from cavern'd Hawthornden.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">Seemed all on fire that chapel proud,</p>
+            <p class="l">Where Roslin's chiefs uncoffined lie,</p>
+            <p class="l">Each baron, for a sable shroud,</p>
+            <p class="l">Sheathed in his iron panoply.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">Seemed all on fire within, around,</p>
+            <p class="l">Deep sacristy and altar's pale;</p>
+            <p class="l">Shone every pillar foliage-bound,</p>
+            <p class="l">And glimmered, all the dead men's mail.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">Blazed battlement and pinnet high,</p>
+            <p class="l">Blazed every rose-carved buttress fair,</p>
+            <p class="l">So will they blaze, when fate is nigh</p>
+            <p class="l">The lordly line of high St. Clair.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">There are twenty of Roslin's barons bold</p>
+            <p class="l">Lie buried, within that proud chapelle;</p>
+            <p class="l">Each one the holy vault doth hold;</p>
+            <p class="l">But the sea holds lovely Rosabelle!</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">And each St. Clair was buried there,</p>
+            <p class="l">With candle, with book, and with knell;</p>
+            <p class="l">But the sea caves rung, and the wild winds sung,</p>
+            <p class="l">The dirge of lovely Rosabelle."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">There are many allusions in this which show Scott's minute
+          habits of observation; for instance, these two lines:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Blazed battlement and pinnet high,</p>
+            <p class="l">Blazed every rose-carved buttress fair."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Every buttress, battlement, and projection of the exterior
+          is incrusted with the most elaborate floral and leafy carving, among which the
+          rose is often repeated, from its suggesting, by similarity of sound,
+          Roslin.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Again, this line&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Shone every pillar foliage-bound"&mdash;</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="dgp">suggests to the mind the profusion and elaborateness of the
+          leafy decorations in the inside. Among these, one pillar, garlanded with spiral
+          wreaths of carved foliage, is called the "Apprentice's Pillar;" the tradition
+          being, that while the master was gone to Rome to get some further hints on
+          executing the plan, a precocious young mason, whom he left at home, completed
+          it in his absence. The master builder summarily knocked him on the head, as a
+          warning to all progressive young men not to grow wiser than their teachers.
+          Tradition points out the heads of the master and workmen among the corbels. So
+          you see, whereas in old Greek times people used to point out their celebrities
+          among the stars, and gave a defunct hero a place in the constellations, in the
+          middle ages he only got a place among the corbels.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I am increasingly sorry that I was beguiled out of my personal
+          examination of this chapel, since I have seen the plates of it in my Baronial
+          Sketches. It is the rival of Melrose, but more elaborate; in fact, it is a
+          perfect cataract of architectural vivacity and ingenuity, as defiant of any
+          rules of criticism and art as the leaf-embowered arcades and arches of our
+          American forest cathedrals. From the comparison of the plates of the
+          engravings, I should judge there was less delicacy of taste, and more
+          exuberance of invention, than in Melrose. One old prosaic commentator on it
+          says that it is quite remarkable that there are no two cuts in it precisely
+          alike; each buttress, window, and pillar is unique, though with such a general
+          resemblance to each other as to deceive the eye.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was built in 1446, by William St. Clair, who was Prince of
+          Orkney, Duke of Oldenburgh, Lord of Roslin, Earl of Caithness and Strathearn,
+          and so on <em>ad infinitum</em>. He was called the "Seemly St. Clair," from his
+          noble deportment and elegant manners; resided in royal splendor at this Castle
+          of Roslin, and kept a court there as Prince of Orkney. His table was served
+          with vessels of gold and silver, and he had one lord for his master of
+          household, one for his cup bearer, and one for his carver. His princess,
+          Elizabeth Douglas, was served by seventy-five gentlewomen, fifty-three of whom
+          were daughters of noblemen, and they were attended in all their excursions by a
+          retinue of two hundred gentlemen.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These very woods and streams, which now hear nothing but the
+          murmurs of the Esk, were all alive with the bustle of a court in those
+          days.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The castle was now distinctly visible; it stands on an insulated
+          rock, two hundred and twenty yards from the chapel. It has under it a set of
+          excavations and caverns almost equally curious with those of Hawthornden; there
+          are still some tolerably preserved rooms in it, and Mrs. W. informed me that
+          they had once rented these rooms for a summer residence. What a delightful
+          idea! The barons of Roslin were all buried under this Chapel, in their armor,
+          as Scott describes in the poem. And as this family were altogether more than
+          common folks, it is perfectly credible that on the death of one of them a
+          miraculous light should illuminate the castle, chapel, and whole
+          neighborhood.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It appears, by certain ancient documents, that this high and
+          mighty house of St. Clair were in a particular manner patrons of the masonic
+          craft. It is known that the trade of masonry was then in the hands of a secret
+          and mysterious order, from whom probably our modern masons have descended.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The St. Clair family, it appears, were at the head of this
+          order, with power to appoint officers and places of meeting, to punish
+          transgressors, and otherwise to have the superintendence of all their affairs.
+          This fact may account for such a perfect Geyser of architectural ingenuity as
+          has been poured out upon their family chapel, which was designed for a
+          <em>chef-d'oeuvre</em>, a concentration of the best that could be done to the
+          honor of their patron's family. The documents which authenticate this statement
+          are described in Billings's Baronial Antiquities. So much for "the lordly line
+          of high St. Clair."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When we came back to the house, and after taking coffee in the
+          drawing room, Miss S. took me over the interior, a most delightful place, full
+          of all sorts of out-of-the-way snuggeries, and comfortable corners, and poetic
+          irregularities. There she showed me a picture of one of the early ancestors of
+          the family, the poet Drummond, hanging in a room, which tradition has assigned
+          to him. It represents a man with a dark, Spanish-looking face, with the broad
+          Elizabethan ruff, earnest, melancholy eyes, and an air half cavalier, half
+          poet, bringing to mind the chivalrous, graceful, fastidious bard, accomplished
+          scholar, and courtier of his time, the devout believer in the divine right of
+          kings, and of the immunities and privileges of the upper class generally. This
+          Drummond, it seems, was early engaged to a fair young lady, whose death
+          rendered his beautiful retreat of Hawthornden insupportable to him, and of
+          course, like other persons of romance, he sought refuge in foreign travel, went
+          abroad, and remained eight years. Afterwards he came back, married, and lived
+          here for some time.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Among other traditions of the place, it is said that Ben Jonson
+          once walked all the way from London to visit the poet in this retreat; and a
+          tree is still shown on the grounds under which they are said to have met. It
+          seems that Ben's habits were rather too noisy and convivial to meet altogether
+          the taste of his fastidious and aristocratic host; and so he had his own
+          thoughts of him, which, being written down in a diary, were published by some
+          indiscreet executor, after they were both dead.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were shown an old, original edition of the poems. I must
+          confess I never read them. Since I have seen the material the poet and novelist
+          has on this ground, all I wonder at is, that there have not been a thousand
+          poets to one. I should have thought they would have been as plenty as the mavis
+          and merle, and sprouting out every where, like the primroses and heather
+          bells.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our American literature is unfortunate in this
+          respect&mdash;that our nation never had any childhood, our day never had any
+          dawn; so we have very little traditionary lore to work over.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We came home about five o'clock, and had some company in the
+          evening. Some time to-day I had a little chat with Mrs. W. on the Quakers. She
+          is a cultivated and thoughtful woman, and seemed to take quite impartial views,
+          and did not consider her own sect as by any means the only form of
+          Christianity, but maintained&mdash;what every sensible person must grant, I
+          think&mdash;that it has had an important mission in society, even in its
+          peculiarities. I inferred from her conversation that the system of plain dress,
+          maintained with the nicety which they always use, is by no means a saving in a
+          pecuniary point of view. She stated that one young friend, who had been brought
+          up in this persuasion, gave it as her reason for not adopting its peculiar
+          dress, that she could not afford it; that is to say, that for a given sum of
+          money she could make a more creditable appearance were she allowed the range of
+          form, shape, and trimming, which the ordinary style of dressing permits.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I think almost any lady, who knows the magical value of bits of
+          trimming, and bows of ribbon judiciously adjusted in critical locations, of
+          inserting, edging, and embroidery, considered as economic arts, must
+          acknowledge that there is some force in the young lady's opinion. Nevertheless
+          the Doric simplicity of a Quaker lady's dress, who is in circumstances to
+          choose her material, has a peculiar charm. As at present advised, the Quaker
+          ladies whom I have seen very judiciously adhere to the spirit of plain attire,
+          without troubling themselves to maintain the exact letter. For instance, a
+          plain straw cottage, with its white satin ribbon, is sometimes allowed to take
+          the place of the close silk bonnet of Fox's day.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">For my part, while I reverence the pious and unworldly spirit
+          which dictated the peculiar forms of the Quaker sect, I look for a higher
+          development of religion still, when all the beautiful artistic faculties of the
+          soul being wholly sanctified and offered up to God, we shall no longer shun
+          beauty in any of its forms, either in dress or household adornment, as a
+          temptation, but rather offer it up as a sacrifice to Him who has set us the
+          example, by making every thing beautiful in its season.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to art and letters, I find many of my Quaker friends
+          sympathizing in those judicious views which were taken by the society of
+          Friends in Philadelphia, when Benjamin West developed a talent for painting,
+          regarding such talent as an indication of the will of Him who had bestowed it.
+          So I find many of them taking pleasure in the poetry of Scott, Longfellow, and
+          Whittier, as developments of his wisdom who gives to the human soul its
+          different faculties and inspirations.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">More delightful society than a cultivated Quaker family cannot
+          be found: the truthfulness, genuineness, and simplicity of character, albeit
+          not wanting, at proper times, a shrewd dash of worldly wisdom, are very
+          refreshing.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mrs. W. and I went to the studio of Hervey, the Scotch artist.
+          Both he and his wife received us with great kindness. I saw there his
+          Covenanters celebrating the Lord's Supper&mdash;a picture which I could not
+          look at critically on account of the tears which kept blinding my eyes. It
+          represents a bleak hollow of a mountain side, where a few trembling old men and
+          women, a few young girls and children, with one or two young men, are grouped
+          together, in that moment of hushed prayerful repose which precedes the breaking
+          of the sacramental bread. There is something touching always about that worn,
+          weary look of rest and comfort with which a sick child lies down on a mother's
+          bosom, and like this is the expression with which these hunted fugitives nestle
+          themselves beneath the shadow of their Redeemer; mothers who had seen their
+          sons "tortured, not accepting deliverance"&mdash;wives who had seen the blood
+          of their husbands poured out on their doorstone&mdash;children with no father
+          but God&mdash;and bereaved old men, from whom, every child had been
+          rent&mdash;all gathering for comfort round the cross of a suffering Lord. In
+          such hours they found strength to suffer, and to say to every allurement of
+          worldly sense and pleasure as the drowning Margaret Wilson said to the tempters
+          in her hour of martyrdom, "I am <em>Christ's child</em>&mdash;let me go."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Another most touching picture of Hervey's commemorates a later
+          scene of Scottish devotion and martyr endurance scarcely below that of the days
+          of the Covenant. It is called Leaving the Manse.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We in America all felt to our heart's core a sympathy with that
+          high endurance which led so many Scottish ministers to forsake their churches,
+          their salaries, the happy homes where their children were born and their days
+          passed, rather than violate a principle.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This picture is a monument of this struggle. There rises the
+          manse overgrown with its flowering vines, the image of a lovely, peaceful home.
+          The minister's wife, a pale, lovely creature, is just locking the door, out of
+          which her husband and family have passed&mdash;leaving it forever. The husband
+          and father is supporting on his arm an aged, feeble mother, and the weeping
+          children are gathering sorrowfully round him, each bearing away some memorial
+          of their home; one has the bird cage. But the unequalled look of high, unshaken
+          patience, of heroic faith, and love which seems to spread its light over every
+          face, is what I cannot paint. The painter told me that the faces were
+          <em>portraits</em>, and the scene by no means imaginary.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">But did not these sacrifices bring with them, even in their
+          bitterness, a joy the world knoweth not? Yes, they did. I know it full well,
+          not vainly did Christ say, There is no man that hath left houses or lands for
+          my sake and the gospel's but he shall receive manifold more <em>in this
+          life</em>.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. Hervey kindly gave me the engraving of his Covenanters'
+          Sacrament, which I shall keep as a memento of him and of Scotland.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">His style of painting is forcible and individual. He showed us
+          the studies that he has taken with his palette and brushes out on the mountains
+          and moors of Scotland, painting moss, and stone, and brook, just as it is. This
+          is the way to be a national painter.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One pleasant evening, not long before we left Edinburgh, C., S.,
+          and I walked out for a quiet stroll. We went through the Grass Market, where so
+          many defenders of the Covenant have suffered, and turned into the churchyard of
+          the Gray Friars; a gray, old Gothic building, with multitudes of graves around
+          it. Here we saw the tombs of Allan Ramsay and many other distinguished
+          characters. The grim, uncouth sculpture on the old graves, and the quaint
+          epitaphs, interested me much; but I was most moved by coming quite unexpectedly
+          on an ivy-grown slab, in the wall, commemorating the martyrs of the Covenant.
+          The inscription struck me so much, that I got C&mdash;&mdash; to copy it in his
+          memorandum book.</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Halt, passenger! take heed what you do see.</p>
+            <p class="l">Here lies interred the dust of those who stood</p>
+            <p class="l">'Gainst perjury, resisting unto blood,</p>
+            <p class="l">Adhering to the Covenant, and laws</p>
+            <p class="l">Establishing the same; which was the cause</p>
+            <p class="l">Their lives were sacrificed unto the last</p>
+            <p class="l">Of prelatists abjured, though here their dust</p>
+            <p class="l">Lies mixed with murderers and other crew</p>
+            <p class="l">Whom justice justly did to death pursue;</p>
+            <p class="l">But as for them, no cause was to be found</p>
+            <p class="l">Worthy of death, but only they were found</p>
+            <p class="l">Constant and steadfast, witnessing</p>
+            <p class="l">For the prerogatives of Christ their King;</p>
+            <p class="l">Which truths were sealed, by famous Guthrie's head,</p>
+            <p class="l">And all along to Mr. Renwick's blood</p>
+            <p class="l">They did endure the wrath of enemies,</p>
+            <p class="l">Reproaches, torments, deaths, and injuries;</p>
+            <p class="l">But yet they're those who from such troubles came</p>
+            <p class="l">And triumph now in glory with the Lamb.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="display">
+            "From May 27, 1681, when the Marquis of Argyle was beheaded, to February 17,
+            1688, when James Renwick suffered, there were some eighteen thousand one way
+            or other murdered, of whom were executed at Edinburgh about one hundred
+            noblemen, ministers, and gentlemen, and others, noble martyrs for Christ."
+          </div>
+          <p class="dgp">Despite the roughness of the verse, there is a thrilling power
+          in these lines. People in gilded houses, on silken couches, at ease among
+          books, and friends, and literary pastimes, may sneer at the Covenanters; it is
+          much easier to sneer than to die for truth and right, as they died. Whether
+          they were right in all respects is nothing to the purpose; but it is to the
+          purpose that in a crisis of their country's history they upheld a great
+          principle vital to her existence. Had not these men held up the heart of
+          Scotland, and kept alive the fire of liberty on her altars, the very literature
+          which has been used to defame them could not have had its existence. The very
+          literary celebrity of Scotland has grown out of their grave; for a vigorous and
+          original literature is impossible, except to a strong, free, self-respecting
+          people. The literature of a people must spring from the sense of its
+          nationality; and nationality is impossible without self-respect, and
+          self-respect is impossible without liberty.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is one of the trials of our mortal state, one of the
+          disciplines of our virtue, that the world's benefactors and reformers are so
+          often without form or comeliness. The very force necessary to sustain the
+          conflict makes them appear unlovely; they "tread the wine press alone, and of
+          the people there is none with them." The shrieks, and groans, and agonies of
+          men wrestling in mortal combat are often not graceful or gracious; but the
+          comments that the children of the Puritans, and the children of the
+          Covenanters, make on the ungraceful and severe elements which marked the
+          struggles of their great fathers, are as ill-timed as if a son, whom a mother
+          had just borne from a burning dwelling, should criticize the shrieks with which
+          she sought him, and point out to ridicule the dishevelled hair and singed
+          garments which show how she struggled for his life. But these are they which
+          are "sown in weakness, but raised in power; which are sown in dishonor, but
+          raised in glory:" even in this world they will have their judgment day, and
+          their names which went down in the dust like a gallant banner trodden in the
+          mire, shall rise again all glorious in the sight of nations.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The evening sky, glowing red, threw out the bold outline of the
+          castle, and the quaint old edifices as they seemed to look down on us silently
+          from their rocky heights, and the figure of Salisbury Crags marked itself
+          against the red sky like a couchant lion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The time of our sojourn in Scotland had drawn towards its close.
+          Though feeble in health, this visit to me has been full of enjoyment; full of
+          lofty, but sad memories; full of sympathies and inspirations. I think there is
+          no nobler land, and I pray God that the old seed here sown in blood and tears
+          may never be rooted out of Scotland.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_27" name="toc_27"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter X</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          H.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was a rainy, misty morning when I left my kind retreat and
+          friends in Edinburgh. Considerate as every body had been about imposing on my
+          time or strength, still you may well believe that I was much exhausted.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We left Edinburgh, therefore, with the determination to plunge
+          at once into some hidden and unknown spot, where we might spend two or three
+          days quietly by ourselves; and remembering your Sunday at Stratford-on-Avon, I
+          proposed that we should go there. As Stratford, however, is off the railroad
+          line we determined to accept the invitation, which was lying by us, from our
+          friend Joseph Sturge, of Birmingham, and take sanctuary with him. So we wrote
+          on, intrusting him with the secret, and charging him on no account to let any
+          one know of our arrival.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Well in the rail car, we went whirling along by Preston Pans,
+          where was fought the celebrated battle in which Colonel Gardiner was killed; by
+          Dunbar, where Cromwell told his army to "trust in God and keep their powder
+          dry;" through Berwick-on-the-Tweed and Newcastle-on-Tyne; by the old towers and
+          gates of York, with its splendid cathedral; getting a view of Durham Cathedral
+          in the distance.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The country between Berwick and Newcastle is one of the greatest
+          manufacturing districts of England, and for smoke, smut, and gloom, Pittsburg
+          and Wheeling bear no comparison to it. The English sky, always paler and cooler
+          in its tints than ours, here seems to be turned into a leaden canopy; tall
+          chimneys belch forth gloom and confusion; houses, factories, fences, even trees
+          and grass, look grim and sooty.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is true that people with immense wealth can live in such
+          regions in cleanliness and elegance; but how must it be with the poor? I know
+          of no one circumstance more unfavorable to moral purity than the necessity of
+          being physically dirty. Our nature is so intensely symbolical, that where the
+          outward sign of defilement becomes habitual, the inner is too apt to
+          correspond. I am quite sure that before there can be a universal millennium,
+          trade must be pursued in such a way as to enable the working classes to realize
+          something of beauty and purity in the circumstances of their outward life.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I have heard there is a law before the British Parliament, whose
+          operation is designed to purify the air of England by introducing chimneys
+          which shall consume all the sooty particles which now float about, obscuring
+          the air and carrying defilement with them. May that day be hastened!</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At Newcastle-on-Tyne and some other places various friends came
+          out to meet us, some of whom presented us with most splendid bouquets of
+          hothouse flowers. This region has been the seat of some of the most zealous and
+          efficient antislavery operations in England.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">About night our cars whizzed into the depot at Birmingham; but
+          just before we came in a difficulty was started in the company. "Mr. Sturge is
+          to be there waiting for us, but he does not know us, and we don't know him;
+          what is to be done?" C&mdash;&mdash; insisted that he should know him by
+          instinct; and so after we reached the depot, we told him to sally out and try.
+          Sure enough, in a few moments he pitched upon a cheerful, middle-aged
+          gentleman, with a moderate but not decisive broad brim to his hat, and
+          challenged him as Mr. Sturge; the result verified the truth that "instinct is a
+          great matter." In a few moments our new friend and ourselves were snugly
+          encased in a fly, trotting off as briskly as ever we could to his place at
+          Edgbaston, nobody a whit the wiser. You do not know how snug we felt to think
+          we had done it so nicely.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The carriage soon drove in upon a gravel walk, winding among
+          turf, flowers, and shrubs, where we found opening to us another home as warm
+          and kindly as the one we had just left, made doubly interesting by the idea of
+          entire privacy and seclusion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After retiring to our chambers to repair the ravages of travel,
+          we united in the pleasant supper room, where the table was laid before a bright
+          coal fire: no unimportant feature this fire, I can assure you, in a raw cloudy
+          evening. A glass door from the supper room opened into a conservatory,
+          brilliant with pink and yellow azalias, golden calceolarias, and a profusion of
+          other beauties, whose names I did not know.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The side tables were strewn with books, and the ample folds of
+          the drab curtains, let down over the windows, shut out the rain, damp, and
+          chill. When we were gathered round the table, Mr. Sturge said that he had
+          somewhat expected Elihu Burritt that evening, and we all hoped he would come. I
+          must not omit to say, that the evening circle was made more attractive and
+          agreeable in my eyes by the presence of two or three of the little people, who
+          were blessed with the rosy cheek of English children.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. Sturge is one of the most prominent and efficient of the
+          philanthropists of modern days. An air of benignity and easy good nature veils
+          and conceals in him the most unflinching perseverance and energy of purpose. He
+          has for many years been a zealous advocate of the antislavery cause in England,
+          taking up efficiently the work begun by Clarkson and Wilberforce. He, with a
+          friend of the same denomination, made a journey at their own expense, to
+          investigate the workings of the apprentice system, by which the act of
+          immediate emancipation in the West Indies was for a while delayed. After his
+          return he sustained a rigorous examination of seven days before a committee of
+          the House of Commons, the result of which successfully demonstrated the abuses
+          of that system, and its entire inutility for preparing either masters or
+          servants for final emancipation. This evidence went as far as any thing to
+          induce Parliament to declare immediate and entire emancipation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. Sturge also has been equally zealous and engaged in
+          movements for the ignorant and perishing classes at home. At his own expense he
+          has sustained a private Farm School for the reformation of juvenile offenders,
+          and it has sometimes been found that boys, whom no severity and no punishment
+          seemed to affect, have been entirely melted and subdued by the gentler measures
+          here employed. He has also taken a very ardent and decided part in efforts for
+          the extension of the principles of peace, being a warm friend and supporter of
+          Elihu Burritt.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next morning it was agreed that we should take our drive to
+          Stratford-on-Avon. As yet this shrine of pilgrims stands a little aloof from
+          the bustle of modern progress, and railroad cars do not run whistling and
+          whisking with brisk officiousness by the old church and the fanciful banks of
+          the Avon.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The country that we were to pass over was more peculiarly old
+          English; that phase of old English which is destined soon to pass away, under
+          the restless regenerating force of modern progress.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Our ride along was a singular commixture of an upper and under
+          current of thought. Deep down in our hearts we were going back to English days;
+          the cumbrous, quaint, queer, old, picturesque times; the dim, haunted times
+          between cock-crowing and morning; those hours of national childhood, when
+          popular ideas had the confiding credulity, the poetic vivacity, and versatile
+          life, which distinguish children from grown people.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">No one can fail to feel, in reading any of the plays of
+          Shakspeare, that he was born in an age of credulity and marvels, and that the
+          materials out of which his mind was woven were dyed in the grain, in the
+          haunted springs of tradition. It would have been as absolutely impossible for
+          even himself, had he been born in the daylight of this century, to have built
+          those quaint, Gothic structures of imagination, and tinted them with their
+          peculiar coloring of marvellousness and mystery, as for a modern artist to
+          originate and execute the weird designs of an ancient cathedral. Both Gothic
+          architecture and this perfection of Gothic poetry were the springing and
+          efflorescence of that age, impossible to grow again. They were the forest
+          primeval; other trees may spring in their room, trees as mighty and as fair,
+          but not such trees.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">So, as we rode along, our speculations and thoughts in the under
+          current were back in the old world of tradition. While, on the other hand, for
+          the upper current, we were keeping up a brisk conversation on the peace
+          question, on the abolition of slavery, on the possibility of ignoring
+          slave-grown produce, on Mr. Cobden and Mr. Bright, and, in fact, on all the
+          most wide-awake topics of the present day.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One little incident occurred upon the road. As we were passing
+          by a quaint old mansion, which stood back from the road, surrounded by a deep
+          court, Mr. S. said to me, "There is a friend here who would like to see thee,
+          if thou hast no objections," and went on to inform me that she was an aged
+          woman, who had taken a deep interest in the abolition of slavery since the time
+          of its first inception under Clarkson and Wilberforce, though now lying very
+          low on a sick bed. Of course we all expressed our willingness to stop, and the
+          carriage was soon driving up the gravelled walk towards the house. We were
+          ushered into a comfortable sitting room, which looked out on beautiful grounds,
+          where the velvet grass, tall, dark trees, and a certain quaint air of antiquity
+          in disposition and arrangement, gave me a singular kind of pleasure; the more
+          so, that it came to me like a dream; that the house and the people were unknown
+          to me, and the whole affair entirely unexpected.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I was soon shown into a neat chamber, where an aged woman was
+          lying in bed. I was very much struck and impressed by her manner of receiving
+          me. With deep emotion and tears, she spoke of the solemnity and sacredness of
+          the cause which had for years lain near her heart. There seemed to be something
+          almost prophetic in the solemn strain of assurance with which she spoke of the
+          final extinction of slavery throughout the world.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I felt both pleased and sorrowful. I felt sorrowful because I
+          knew, if all true Christians in America had the same feelings, that men, women,
+          and children, for whom Christ died, would no more be sold in my country on the
+          auction block.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There have been those in America who have felt and prayed thus
+          nobly and sincerely for the heathen in Burmah and Hindostan, and that sentiment
+          was a beautiful and an ennobling one; but, alas! the number has been few who
+          have felt and prayed for the heathenism, and shame of our own country; for the
+          heathenism which sells the very members of the body of Christ as
+          merchandise.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When we were again on the road, we were talking on the change of
+          times in England since railroads began; and Mr. S. gave an amusing description
+          of how the old lords used to travel in state, with their coaches and horses,
+          when they went up once a year on a solemn pilgrimage to London, with postilions
+          and outriders, and all the country gaping and wondering after them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I wonder," said one of us, "if Shakspeare were living, what he
+          would say to our times, and what he would think of all the questions that are
+          agitating the world now." That he did have thoughts whose roots ran far beyond
+          the depth of the age in which he lived, is plain enough from numberless
+          indications in his plays; but whether he would have taken any practical
+          interest in the world's movements is a fair question. The poetic mind is not
+          always the progressive one; it has, like moss and ivy, a need for something old
+          to cling to and germinate upon. The artistic temperament, too, is soft and
+          sensitive; so there are all these reasons for thinking that perhaps he would
+          have been for keeping out of the way of the heat and dust of modern progress.
+          It does not follow because a man has penetration to see an evil, he has energy
+          to reform it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Erasmus saw all that Luther saw just as clearly, but he said
+          that he had rather never have truth at all, than contend for it with the world
+          in such a tumult. However, on the other hand, England did, in Milton, have one
+          poet who girt himself up to the roughest and stormiest work of reformation; so
+          it is not quite certain, after all, that Shakspeare might not have been a
+          reformer in our times. One thing is quite certain, that he would have said very
+          shrewd things about all the matters that move the world now, as he certainly
+          did about all matters that he was cognizant of in his own day.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was a little before noon when we drove into Stratford, by
+          which time, with our usual fatality in visiting poetic shrines, the day had
+          melted off into a kind of drizzling mist, strongly suggestive of a downright
+          rain. It is a common trick these English days have; the weather here seems to
+          be possessed of a water spirit. This constant drizzle is good for ivies, and
+          hawthorns, and ladies' complexions, as whoever travels here will observe, but
+          it certainly is very bad for tourists.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This Stratford is a small town, of between three and four
+          thousand inhabitants, and has in it a good many quaint old houses, and is
+          characterized (so I thought) by an air of respectable, stand-still, and
+          meditative repose, which, I am afraid, will entirely give way before the
+          railroad demon, for I understand that it is soon to be connected by the Oxford,
+          Worcester, and Wolverhampton line with all parts of the kingdom. Just think of
+          that black little screeching imp rushing through these fields which have
+          inspired so many fancies; how every thing poetical will fly before it! Think of
+          such sweet snatches as these set to the tune of a railroad whistle:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Hark! hark! the lark at heaven's gate sings,</p>
+            <p class="l">And Phoebus 'gins to rise,</p>
+            <p class="l">His steeds to water at those springs</p>
+            <p class="l">On chaliced flowers that lies.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">And winking Mary-buds begin</p>
+            <p class="l">To ope their golden eyes,</p>
+            <p class="l">With everything that pretty bid</p>
+            <p class="l">My lady sweet to rise."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">And again:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Philomel with melody sing in our sweet lullaby,</p>
+            <p class="l">Lulla, lulla, lullaby.</p>
+            <p class="l">Never harm, nor spell, nor charm,</p>
+            <p class="l">Come our lovely lady nigh."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I suppose the meadows, with their "winking Mary-buds," will
+          be all cut up into building lots in the good times coming, and Philomel caught
+          and put in a cage to sing to tourists at threepence a head.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went to the White Lion, and soon had a little quiet parlor to
+          ourselves, neatly carpeted, with a sofa drawn up to the cheerful coal fire, a
+          good-toned piano, and in short every thing cheerful and comfortable.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At first we thought we were too tired to do any thing till after
+          dinner; we were going to take time to rest ourselves and proceed leisurely; so,
+          while the cloth was laying, C&mdash;&mdash; took possession of the piano, and I
+          of the sofa, till Mr. S. came in upon us, saying, "Why, Shakspeare's house is
+          right the next door here!" Upon that we got up, just to take a peep, and from
+          peeping we proceeded to looking, and finally put on our things and went over
+          <em>seriatim</em>. The house has recently been bought by a Shakspearian club,
+          who have taken upon themselves the restoration and preservation of the
+          premises.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Shakspeare's father, it seems, was a man of some position and
+          substance in his day, being high sheriff and justice of the peace for the
+          borough; and this house, therefore, I suppose, may be considered a specimen of
+          the respectable class of houses in the times of Queen Elizabeth. This cut is
+          taken from an old print, and is supposed to represent the original condition of
+          the house.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image21.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">We saw a good many old houses somewhat similar to this on the
+          road, particularly resembling it in this manner of plastering, which shows all
+          the timber on the outside. Parts of the house have been sold, altered, and used
+          for various purposes; a butcher's stall having been kept in a part of it, and a
+          tavern in another portion, being new-fronted with brick.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The object of this Shakspeare Club has been to repurchase all
+          these parts, and restore them as nearly as possible to their primeval
+          condition. The part of the house which is shown consists of a lower room, which
+          is floored with flat stones very much broken. It has a wide, old-fashioned
+          chimney on one side, and opens into a smaller room back of it. From thence you
+          go up a rude flight of stairs to a low-studded room, with rough-plastered
+          walls, where the poet was born.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image22.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">The prints of this room, which are generally sold, allow
+          themselves in considerable poetic license, representing it in fact as quite an
+          elegant apartment, whereas, though it is kept scrupulously neat and clean, the
+          air of it is ancient and rude. This is a somewhat flattered likeness. The
+          roughly-plastered walls are so covered with names that it seemed impossible to
+          add another. The name of almost every modern genius, names of kings, princes,
+          dukes, are shown here; and it is really curious to see by what devices some
+          very insignificant personages have endeavored to make their own names
+          conspicuous in the crowd. Generally speaking the inscription books and walls of
+          distinguished places tend to give great force to the Vulgate rendering of
+          Ecclesiastes i. 15, "The number of fools is infinite."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To add a name in a private, modest way to walls already so
+          crowded, is allowable; but to scrawl one's name, place of birth, and country,
+          half across a wall, covering scores of names under it, is an operation which
+          speaks for itself. No one would ever want to know more of a man than to see his
+          name there and thus.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Back of this room were some small bed rooms, and what interested
+          me much, a staircase leading up into a dark garret. I could not but fancy I saw
+          a bright-eyed, curly-headed boy creeping up those stairs, zealous to explore
+          the mysteries of that dark garret. There perhaps he saw the cat, with "eyne of
+          burning coal, crouching 'fore the mouse's hole." Doubtless in this old garret
+          were wonderful mysteries to him, curious stores of old cast-off goods and
+          furniture, and rats, and mice, and cobwebs. I fancied the indignation of some
+          belligerent grandmother or aunt, who finds Willie up there watching a mouse
+          hole, with the cat, and has him down straightway, grumbling that Mary did not
+          govern that child better.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We know nothing who this Mary was that was his mother; but one
+          sometimes wonders where in that coarse age, when queens and ladies talked
+          familiarly, as women would blush to talk now, and when the broad, coarse wit of
+          the Merry Wives of Windsor was gotten up to suit the taste of a virgin
+          queen,&mdash;one wonders, I say, when women were such and so, where he found
+          those models of lily-like purity, women so chaste in soul and pure in language
+          that they could not even bring their lips to utter a word of shame. Desdemona
+          cannot even bring herself to speak the coarse word with which her husband
+          taunts her; she cannot make herself believe that there are women in the world
+          who could stoop-to such grossness.<a href="#note_12"><span
+          class="footnoteref">12</span></a></p>
+          <p class="dgp">For my part I cannot believe that, in such an age, such deep
+          heart-knowledge of pure womanhood could have come otherwise than by the
+          impression on the child's soul of a mother's purity. I seem to have a vision of
+          one of those women whom the world knows not of, silent, deep-hearted, loving,
+          whom the coarser and more practically efficient jostle aside and underrate for
+          their want of interest in the noisy chitchat and commonplace of the day; but
+          who yet have a sacred power, like that of the spirit of peace, to brood with
+          dovelike wings over the childish heart, and quicken into life the struggling,
+          slumbering elements of a sensitive nature.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I cannot but think, in that beautiful scene, where he represents
+          Desdemona as amazed and struck dumb with the grossness and brutality of the
+          charges which had been thrown upon her, yet so dignified in the consciousness
+          of her own purity, so magnanimous in the power of disinterested, forgiving
+          love, that he was portraying no ideal excellence, but only reproducing, under
+          fictitious and supposititious circumstances, the patience, magnanimity, and
+          enduring love which had shone upon him in the household words and ways of his
+          mother.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It seemed to me that in that bare and lowly chamber I saw a
+          vision of a lovely face which was the first beauty that dawned on those
+          childish eyes, and heard that voice whose lullaby tuned his ear to an exquisite
+          sense of cadence and rhythm. I fancied that, while she thus serenely shone
+          upon, him like a benignant star, some rigorous grand-aunt took upon her the
+          practical part of his guidance, chased up his wanderings to the right and left,
+          scolded him for wanting to look out of the window because his little climbing
+          toes left their mark on the neat wall, or rigorously arrested him when his
+          curly head was seen bobbing off at the bottom of the street, following a bird,
+          or a dog, or a showman; intercepting him in some happy hour when he was aiming
+          to strike off on his own account to an adjoining field for "winking Mary-buds;"
+          made long sermons to him on the wickedness of muddying his clothes and wetting
+          his new shoes, (if he had any,) and told him that something dreadful would come
+          out of the graveyard and catch him if he was not a better boy, imagining that
+          if it were not for her bustling activity Willie would go straight to
+          destruction.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I seem, too, to have a kind of perception of Shakspeare's
+          father; a quiet, God-fearing, thoughtful man, given to the reading of good
+          books, avoiding quarrels with a most Christian-like fear, and with but small
+          talent, either in the way of speech making or money getting; a man who wore his
+          coat with an easy slouch, and who seldom knew where his money went to.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All these things I seemed to perceive as if a sort of vision had
+          radiated from the old walls; there seemed to be the rustling of garments and
+          the sound of voices in the deserted rooms; the pattering of feet on the
+          worm-eaten staircase; the light of still, shady summer afternoons, a hundred
+          years ago, seemed to fall through the casements and lie upon the floor. There
+          was an interest to every thing about the house, even to the quaint iron
+          fastenings about the windows; because those might have arrested that child's
+          attention, and been dwelt on in some dreamy hour of infant thought. The fires
+          that once burned in those old chimneys, the fleeting sparks, the curling smoke,
+          and glowing coals, all may have inspired their fancies. There is a strong tinge
+          of household coloring in many parts of Shakspeare, imagery that could only have
+          come from such habits of quiet, household contemplation. See, for example, this
+          description of the stillness of the house, after all are gone to bed at
+          night:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Now sleep yslaked hath the rout;</p>
+            <p class="l">No din but snores, the house about,</p>
+            <p class="l">Made louder by the o'er-fed breast</p>
+            <p class="l">Of this most pompous marriage feast.</p>
+            <p class="l">The cat, with, eyne of burning coal,</p>
+            <p class="l">Now crouches 'fore the mouse's hole;</p>
+            <p class="l">And, crickets sing at th' oven's mouth,</p>
+            <p class="l">As the blither for their drouth."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Also this description of the midnight capers of the fairies
+          about the house, from Midsummer Night's Dream:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="speaker">
+            PUCK.:
+          </div>
+          <div class="sp">
+            <p class="l">"Now the hungry lion roars,</p>
+            <p class="l">And the wolf behowls the moon;</p>
+            <p class="l">Whilst the heavy ploughman snores,</p>
+            <p class="l">All with, weary task fordone.</p>
+            <p class="l">Now the wasted brands do glow,</p>
+            <p class="l">Whilst the scritch-owl, scritching loud,</p>
+            <p class="l">Puts the wretch, that lies in woe,</p>
+            <p class="l">In remembrance of a shroud.</p>
+            <p class="l">Now it is the time of night,</p>
+            <p class="l">That the graves all gaping wide,</p>
+            <p class="l">Every one lets forth his sprite,</p>
+            <p class="l">In the churchway paths to glide:</p>
+            <p class="l">And we fairies that do run</p>
+            <p class="l">By the triple Hecate's team,</p>
+            <p class="l">From the presence of the sun,</p>
+            <p class="l">Following darkness like a dream,</p>
+            <p class="l">Now are frolic; not a mouse</p>
+            <p class="l">Shall disturb this hallowed house:</p>
+            <p class="l">I am sent with, broom, before,</p>
+            <p class="l">To sweep the dust behind the door.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="speaker">
+            OBE.:
+          </div>
+          <div class="sp">
+            <p class="l">Through this house give glimmering light,</p>
+            <p class="l">By the dead and drowsy fire:</p>
+            <p class="l">Every elf, and fairy sprite,</p>
+            <p class="l">Hop as light as bird, from brier;</p>
+            <p class="l">And this ditty after me</p>
+            <p class="l">Sing, and dance it trippingly."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">By the by, one cannot but be struck with the resemblance,
+          in the spirit and coloring of these lines, to those very similar ones in the
+          Penseroso of Milton:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Far from all resort of mirth,</p>
+            <p class="l">Save the cricket on the hearth,</p>
+            <p class="l">Or the bellman's drowsy charm,</p>
+            <p class="l">To bless the doors from nightly harm;</p>
+            <p class="l">While glowing embers, through the room,</p>
+            <p class="l">Teach light to counterfeit a gloom."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I have often noticed how much the first writings of Milton
+          resemble in their imagery and tone of coloring those of Shakspeare,
+          particularly in the phraseology and manner of describing flowers. I think, were
+          a certain number of passages from Lycidas and Comus interspersed with a certain
+          number from Midsummer Night's Dream, the imagery, tone of thought, and style of
+          coloring, would be found so nearly identical, that it would be difficult for
+          one not perfectly familiar to distinguish them. You may try it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">That Milton read and admired Shakspeare is evident from his
+          allusion to him in L'Allegro. It is evident, however, that Milton's taste had
+          been so formed by the Greek models, that he was not entirely aware of all that
+          was in Shakspeare; he speaks of him as a sweet, fanciful warbler, and it is
+          exactly in sweetness and fancifulness that he seems to have derived benefit
+          from him. In his earlier poems, Milton seems, like Shakspeare, to have let his
+          mind run freely, as a brook warbles over many-colored pebbles; whereas in his
+          great poem he built after models. Had he known as little Latin and Greek as
+          Shakspeare, the world, instead of seeing a well-arranged imitation of the
+          ancient epics from his pen, would have seen inaugurated a new order of
+          poetry.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">An unequalled artist, who should build after the model of a
+          Grecian temple, would doubtless produce a splendid and effective building,
+          because a certain originality always inheres in genius, even when copying; but
+          far greater were it to invent an entirely new style of architecture, as
+          different as the Gothic from the Grecian. This merit was Shakspeare's. He was a
+          superb Gothic poet; Milton, a magnificent imitator of old forms, which by his
+          genius were wrought almost into the energy of new productions.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I think Shakspeare is to Milton precisely what Gothic
+          architecture is to Grecian, or rather to the warmest, most vitalized
+          reproductions of the Grecian; there is in Milton a calm, severe majesty, a
+          graceful and polished inflorescence of ornament, that produces, as you look
+          upon it, a serene, long, strong ground-swell of admiration and approval. Yet
+          there is a cold unity of expression, that calls into exercise only the very
+          highest range of our faculties: there is none of that wreathed involution of
+          smiles and tears, of solemn earnestness and quaint conceits; those sudden
+          uprushings of grand and magnificent sentiment, like the flame-pointed arches of
+          cathedrals; those ranges of fancy, half goblin, half human; those complications
+          of dizzy magnificence with fairy lightness; those streamings of many-colored
+          light; those carvings wherein every natural object is faithfully reproduced,
+          yet combined into a kind of enchantment: the union of all these is in
+          Shakspeare, and not in Milton. Milton had one most glorious phase of humanity
+          in its perfection; Shakspeare had all united; from the "deep and dreadful"
+          sub-bass of the organ to the most aerial warbling of its highest key, not a
+          stop or pipe was wanting.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image23.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">But, in fine, at the end of all this we went back to our hotel
+          to dinner. After dinner we set out to see the church. Even Walter Scott has not
+          a more poetic monument than this church, standing as it does amid old,
+          embowering trees, on the beautiful banks of the Avon. A soft, still rain was
+          falling on the leaves of the linden trees, as we walked up the avenue to the
+          church. Even rainy though it was, I noticed that many little birds would
+          occasionally break out into song. In the event of such a phenomenon as a bright
+          day, I think there must be quite a jubilee of birds here, even as he sung who
+          lies below:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The ousel-cock, so black of hue,</p>
+            <p class="l">With orange-tawny bill,</p>
+            <p class="l">The throstle with his note so true,</p>
+            <p class="l">The wren with little quill;</p>
+            <p class="l">The finch, the sparrow, and the lark,</p>
+            <p class="l">The plain-song cuckoo gray."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The church has been carefully restored inside, so that it
+          is now in excellent preservation, and Shakspeare lies buried under a broad,
+          flat stone in the chancel. I had full often read, and knew by heart, the
+          inscription on this stone; but somehow, when I came and stood over it, and read
+          it, it affected me as if there were an emanation from the grave beneath. I have
+          often wondered at that inscription, that a mind so sensitive, that had thought
+          so much, and expressed thought with such startling power on all the mysteries
+          of death, the grave, and the future world, should have found nothing else to
+          inscribe on his own grave but this:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="display">
+            <p class="noindent">Good Friend for Iesus SAKE forbare</p>
+            <p class="dgp">To digg T-E Dust EncloAsed HERe</p>
+            <p class="dgp">Blese be T-E Man T/Y spares T-Es Stones</p>
+            <p class="dgp">And curst be He T/Y moves my Bones</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="dgp">It seems that the inscription has not been without its use, in
+          averting what the sensitive poet most dreaded; for it is recorded in one of the
+          books sold here, that some years ago, in digging a neighboring grave, a
+          careless sexton broke into the side of Shakspeare's tomb, and looking in saw
+          his bones, and could easily have carried away the skull had he not been
+          deterred by the imprecation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is a monument in the side of the wall, which has a bust of
+          Shakspeare upon it, said to be the most authentic likeness, and supposed to
+          have been taken by a cast from his face after death. This statement was made to
+          us by the guide who showed it, and he stated that Chantrey had come to that
+          conclusion by a minute examination of the face. He took us into a room, where
+          was an exact plaster cast of the bust, on which he pointed out various little
+          minutiae on which this idea was founded. The two sides of the face are not
+          alike; there is a falling in and depression of the muscles on one side which
+          does not exist on the other, such as probably would never have occurred in a
+          fancy bust, where the effort always is to render the two sides of the face as
+          much alike as possible. There is more fulness about the lower part of the face
+          than is consistent with the theory of an idealized bust, but is perfectly
+          consistent with the probabilities of the time of life at which he died, and
+          perhaps with the effects of the disease of which he died.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All this I set down as it was related to me by our guide; it had
+          a very plausible and probable sound, and I was bent on believing, which is a
+          great matter in faith of all kinds.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is something in favor of the supposition that this is an
+          authentic likeness, that it was erected in his own native town within seven
+          years of his death, among people, therefore, who must have preserved the
+          recollection of his personal appearance. After the manner of those times it was
+          originally painted, the hair and beard of an auburn color, the eyes hazel, and
+          the dress was represented as consisting of a scarlet doublet, over which was a
+          loose black gown without sleeves; all which looks like an attempt to preserve
+          an exact likeness. The inscription upon it, also, seemed to show that there
+          were some in the world by no means unaware of who and what he was.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Next to the tomb of Shakspeare in the chancel is buried his
+          favorite daughter, over whom somebody has placed the following quaint
+          inscription:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Witty above her sex, but that's not all,</p>
+            <p class="l">Wise to salvation was good Mistress Hall.</p>
+            <p class="l">Something of Shakspeare was in that, but this</p>
+            <p class="l">Wholly of him, with whom she is now in bliss;</p>
+            <p class="l">Then, passenger, hast ne'er a tear,</p>
+            <p class="l">To weep with her that wept with, all&mdash;</p>
+            <p class="l">That wept, yet set herself to cheer</p>
+            <p class="l">Them, up with comfort's cordial?</p>
+            <p class="l">Her lore shall live, her mercy spread,</p>
+            <p class="l">When thou hast ne'er a tear to shed."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">This good Mistress Hall, it appears, was Shakspeare's
+          favorite among his three children. His son, Hamet, died at twelve years of age.
+          His daughter Judith, as appears from some curious document still extant, could
+          not write her own name, but signed with her mark; so that the "wit" of the
+          family must have concentrated itself in Mistress Hall. To her, in his last
+          will, which is still extant, Shakspeare bequeathed an amount of houses, lands,
+          plate, jewels, and other valuables, sufficient to constitute quite a handsome
+          estate. It would appear, from this, that the poet deemed her not only "wise
+          unto salvation," but wise in her day and generation, thus intrusting her with
+          the bulk of his worldly goods.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">His wife, Ann Hathaway, is buried near by, under the same
+          pavement. From the slight notice taken of her in the poet's will, it would
+          appear that there was little love between them. He married her when he was but
+          eighteen; most likely she was a mere rustic beauty, entirely incapable either
+          of appreciating or adapting herself to that wide and wonderful mind in its full
+          development.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to Mistress Hall, though the estate was carefully entailed,
+          through her, to heirs male through all generations, it was not her good fortune
+          to become the mother of a long line, for she had only one daughter, who became
+          Lady Barnard, and in whom, dying childless, the family became extinct.
+          Shakspeare, like Scott, seems to have had the desire to perpetuate himself by
+          founding a family with an estate, and the coincidence in the result is
+          striking. Genius must be its own monument.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After we had explored the church we went out to walk about the
+          place. We crossed the beautiful bridge over the Avon, and thought how lovely
+          those fields and meadows would look, if they only had sunshine to set them out.
+          Then we went to the town hall, where we met the mayor, who had kindly called
+          and offered to show us the place.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It seems, in 1768, that Garrick set himself to work in good
+          earnest to do honor to Shakspeare's memory, by getting up a public
+          demonstration at Stratford; and the world, through the talents of this actor,
+          having become alive and enthusiastic, liberal subscriptions were made by the
+          nobility and gentry, the town hall was handsomely repaired and adorned, and a
+          statue of Shakspeare, presented by Garrick, was placed in a niche at one end.
+          Then all the chief men and mighty men of the nation came and testified their
+          reverence for the poet, by having a general jubilee. A great tent was spread on
+          the banks of the Avon, where they made speeches and drank wine, and wound up
+          all with a great dance in the town hall; and so the manes of Shakspeare were
+          appeased, and his position settled for all generations. The room in the town
+          hall is a very handsome one, and has pictures of Garrick, and the other
+          notables who figured on that occasion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After that we were taken to see New Place. "And what is New
+          Place?" you say; "the house where Shakspeare lived?" Not exactly; but a house
+          built where his house was. This drawing is taken from an old print, and is
+          supposed to represent the house as Shakspeare fitted it up.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image24.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went out into what was Shakspeare's garden, where we were
+          shown his mulberry&mdash;not the one that he planted though, but a veritable
+          mulberry planted on the same spot; and then we went back to our hotel very
+          tired, but having conscientiously performed every jot and tittle of the duty of
+          good pilgrims.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we sat, in the drizzly evening, over our comfortable tea
+          table, C&mdash;&mdash; ventured to intimate pretty decidedly that he considered
+          the whole thing a bore; whereat I thought I saw a sly twinkle around the eyes
+          and mouth of our most Christian and patient friend, Joseph Sturge. Mr. S.
+          laughingly told him that he thought it the greatest exercise of Christian
+          tolerance, that he should have trailed round in the mud with us all day in our
+          sightseeing, bearing with our unreasonable raptures. He smiled, and said,
+          quietly, "I must confess that I was a little pleased that our friend Harriet
+          was so zealous to see Shakspeare's house, when it wasn't his house, and so
+          earnest to get sprigs from his mulberry, when it wasn't his mulberry." We were
+          quite ready to allow the foolishness of the thing, and join the laugh at our
+          own expense.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to our bed rooms, you must know that all the apartments in
+          this house are named after different plays of Shakspeare, the name being
+          printed conspicuously over each door; so that the choosing of our rooms made us
+          a little sport.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"What rooms will you have, gentlemen?" says the pretty chamber
+          maid.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Rooms," said Mr. S.; "why, what are there to have?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Well, there's Richard III., and there's Hamlet," says the
+          girl.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"O, Hamlet, by all means," said I; "that was always my favorite.
+          Can't sleep in Richard III., we should have such bad dreams."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"For my part," said C&mdash;&mdash;, "I want All's well that
+          ends well."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"I think," said the chamber maid, hesitating, "the bed in Hamlet
+          isn't large enough for two. Richard III. is a very nice room, sir."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In fact, it became evident that we were foreordained to Richard;
+          so we resolved to embrace the modern historical view of this subject, which
+          will before long turn him out a saint, and not be afraid of the muster roll of
+          ghosts which Shakspeare represented as infesting his apartment.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Well, for a wonder, the next morning arose a genuine sunny,
+          beautiful day. Let the fact be recorded that such things do sometimes occur
+          even in England. C&mdash;&mdash; was mollified, and began to recant his
+          ill-natured heresies of the night before, and went so far as to walk, out of
+          his own proper motion, to Ann Hathaway's Cottage before breakfast&mdash;he
+          being one of the brethren described by Longfellow,</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Who is gifted with most miraculous powers</p>
+            <p class="l">Of getting up at all sorts of hours;"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">and therefore he came in to breakfast table with that
+          serenity of virtuous composure which generally attends those who have been out
+          enjoying the beauties of nature while their neighbors have been ingloriously
+          dozing.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The walk, he said, was beautiful; the cottage damp, musty, and
+          fusty; and a supposititious old bedstead, of the age of Queen Elizabeth, which
+          had been obtruded upon his notice because it <em>might</em> have belonged to
+          Ann Hathaway's mother, received a special malediction. For my part, my
+          relic-hunting propensities were not in the slightest degree appeased, but
+          rather stimulated, by the investigations of the day before.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It seemed to me so singular that of such a man there should not
+          remain one accredited relic! Of Martin Luther, though he lived much earlier,
+          how many things remain! Of almost any distinguished character how much more is
+          known than of Shakspeare! There is not, so far as I can discover, an authentic
+          relic of any thing belonging to him. There are very few anecdotes of his
+          sayings or doings; no letters, no private memoranda, that should let us into
+          the secret of what he was personally who has in turns personated all minds. The
+          very perfection of his dramatic talent has become an impenetrable veil: we can
+          no more tell from his writings what were his predominant tastes and habits than
+          we can discriminate among the variety of melodies what are the native notes of
+          the mocking bird. The only means left us for forming an opinion of what he was
+          personally are inferences of the most delicate nature from, the slightest
+          premises.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The common idea which has pervaded the world, of a joyous,
+          roving, somewhat unsettled, and dissipated character, would seem, from many
+          well-authenticated facts, to be incorrect. The gayeties and dissipations of his
+          life seem to have been confined to his very earliest days, and to have been the
+          exuberance of a most extraordinary vitality, bursting into existence with such
+          force and vivacity that it had not had time to collect itself, and so come to
+          self-knowledge and control. By many accounts it would appear that the character
+          he sustained in the last years of his life was that of a judicious,
+          common-sense sort of man; a discreet, reputable, and religious householder.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The inscription on his tomb is worthy of remark, as indicating
+          the reputation he bore at the time: "<em>Judicio Pylium, genio Socratem, arte
+          Maronem</em>" (In judgment a Nestor, in genius a Socrates, in art a
+          Virgil.)</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The comparison of him in the first place to Nestor, proverbially
+          famous for practical judgment and virtue of life, next to Socrates, who was a
+          kind of Greek combination of Dr. Paley and Dr. Franklin, indicates a very
+          different impression of him from what would generally be expressed of a poet,
+          certainly what would not have been placed on the grave of an eccentric, erratic
+          will-o'-the-wisp genius, however distinguished. Moreover, the pious author of
+          good Mistress Hall's epitaph records the fact of her being "wise to salvation,"
+          as a more especial point of resemblance to her father than even her being
+          "witty above her sex," and expresses most confident hope of her being with him
+          in bliss. The Puritan tone of the epitaph, as well as the quality of the verse,
+          gives reason to suppose that it was not written by one who was seduced into a
+          tombstone lie by any superfluity of poetic sympathy.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The last will of Shakspeare, written by his own hand and still
+          preserved, shows several things of the man.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The introduction is as follows:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"In the name of God. Amen. I, William Shakspeare, at
+          Stratford-upon-Avon, in the county of Warwick, gentleman, in perfect health and
+          memory, (God be praised,) do make and ordain this my last will and testament in
+          manner and form following; that is to say,&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"First, I commend my soul into the hands of God my Creator,
+          hoping, and assuredly believing, through the only merits of Jesus Christ, my
+          Savior, to be made partaker of life everlasting; and my body to the earth,
+          whereof it is made."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The will then goes on to dispose of an amount of houses, lands,
+          plate, money, jewels, &amp;c., which showed certainly that the poet had
+          possessed some worldly skill and thrift in accumulation, and to divide them
+          with a care and accuracy which would indicate that he was by no means of that
+          dreamy and unpractical habit of mind which cares not what becomes of worldly
+          goods.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We may also infer something of a man's character from the tone
+          and sentiments of others towards him. Glass of a certain color casts on
+          surrounding objects a reflection of its own hue, and so the tint of a man's
+          character returns upon us in the habitual manner in which he is spoken of by
+          those around him. The common mode of speaking of Shakspeare always savored of
+          endearment. "Gentle Will" is an expression that seemed oftenest repeated. Ben
+          Jonson inscribed his funeral verses "To the Memory of <em>my beloved</em> Mr.
+          William Shakspeare;" he calls him the "sweet swan of Avon." Again, in his lines
+          under a bust of Shakspeare, he says,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"The figure that thou seest put,</p>
+            <p class="l">It was for gentle Shakspeare cut."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">In later times Milton, who could have known him only by
+          tradition, calls him "my Shakspeare," "dear son of memory," and "sweetest
+          Shakspeare." Now, nobody ever wrote of sweet John Milton, or gentle John
+          Milton, or gentle Martin Luther, or even sweet Ben Jonson.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Rowe says of Shakspeare, "The latter part of his life was spent,
+          as all men of good sense would wish theirs may be, in ease, retirement, and the
+          conversation of his friends. His pleasurable wit and good nature engaged him in
+          the acquaintance, and entitled him to the friendship, of the gentlemen of the
+          neighborhood." And Dr. Drake says, "He was high in reputation as a poet,
+          favored by the great and the accomplished, and beloved by all who knew
+          him."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">That Shakspeare had religious principle, I infer not merely from
+          the indications of his will and tombstone, but from those strong evidences of
+          the working of the religious element which are scattered through his plays. No
+          man could have a clearer perception of God's authority and man's duty; no one
+          has expressed more forcibly the strength of God's government, the spirituality
+          of his requirements, or shown with more fearful power the struggles of the "law
+          in the members warring against the law of the mind."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These evidences, scattered through his plays, of deep religious
+          struggles, make probable the idea that, in the latter, thoughtful, and tranquil
+          years of his life, devotional impulses might have settled into habits, and that
+          the solemn language of his will, in which he professes his faith, in Christ,
+          was not a mere form. Probably he had all his life, even in his gayest hours,
+          more real religious principle than the hilarity of his manner would give reason
+          to suppose. I always fancy he was thinking of himself when he wrote this
+          character: "For the man doth fear God, howsoever it seem not in him by reason
+          of some large jests he doth make."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Neither is there any foundation for the impression that he was
+          undervalued in his own times. No literary man of his day had more success, more
+          flattering attentions from the great, or reaped more of the substantial fruits
+          of popularity, in the form of worldly goods. While his contemporary, Ben
+          Jonson, sick in a miserable alley, is forced to beg, and receives but a
+          wretched pittance from Charles I., Shakspeare's fortune steadily increases from
+          year to year. He buys the best place in his native town, and fits it up with
+          great taste; he offered to lend, on proper security, a sum of money for the use
+          of the town of Stratford; he added to his estate in Stratford a hundred and
+          seventy acres of land; he bought half the great and small tithes of Stratford;
+          and his annual income is estimated to have been what would at the present time
+          be nearly four thousand dollars.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Queen Elizabeth also patronized him after her ordinary fashion
+          of patronizing literary men,&mdash;that is to say, she expressed her gracious
+          pleasure that he should burn incense to her, and pay his own bills: economy was
+          not one of the least of the royal graces. The Earl of Southampton patronized
+          him in a more material fashion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Queen Elizabeth even so far condescended to the poet as to
+          perform certain hoidenish tricks while he was playing on the stage, to see if
+          she could not disconcert his speaking by the majesty of her royal presence. The
+          poet, who was performing the part of King Henry IV., took no notice of her
+          motions, till, in order to bring him to a crisis, she dropped her glove at his
+          feet; whereat he picked it up, and presented it her, improvising these two
+          lines, as if they had been a part of the play:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"And though, now bent on this high embassy,</p>
+            <p class="l">Yet stoop we to take up our cousin's glove."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">I think this anecdote very characteristic of them both; it
+          seems to me it shows that the poet did not so absolutely crawl in the dust
+          before her, as did almost all the so called men of her court; though he did
+          certainly flatter her after a fashion in which few queens can be flattered. His
+          description of the belligerent old Gorgon as the "Fair Vestal throned by the
+          West" seems like the poetry and fancy of the beautiful Fairy Queen wasted upon
+          the half-brute clown:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Come, sit thee down upon this flowery bed,</p>
+            <p class="l">While I thy amiable cheeks do coy,</p>
+            <p class="l">And stick musk roses in thy sleek, smooth, head,</p>
+            <p class="l">And kiss thy fair, large ears, my gentle joy."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="dgp">Elizabeth's understanding and appreciation of Shakspeare was
+          much after the fashion of Nick Bottom's of the Fairy Queen. I cannot but
+          believe that the men of genius who employed their powers in celebrating this
+          most repulsive and disagreeable woman must sometimes have comforted themselves
+          by a good laugh in private.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In order to appreciate Shakspeare's mind from his plays, we must
+          discriminate what expressed the gross tastes of his age, and what he wrote to
+          please himself. The Merry Wives of Windsor was a specimen of what he wrote for
+          the "Fair Vestal;" a commentary on the delicacy of her maiden meditations. The
+          Midsummer Night's Dream he wrote from his own inner dream world.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the morning we took leave of our hotel. In leaving we were
+          much touched with the simple kindliness of the people of the house. The
+          landlady and her daughters came to bid us farewell, with much feeling; and the
+          former begged my acceptance of a bead purse, knit by one of her daughters, she
+          said, during the winter evenings while they were reading Uncle Tom. In this
+          town one finds the simple-hearted, kindly English people corresponding to the
+          same class which we see in our retired New England towns. We received many
+          marks of kindness from different residents in Stratford; in the expression of
+          them, they appreciated and entered into our desire for privacy with a delicacy
+          which touched us sensibly.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We had little time to look about us to see Stratford in the
+          sunshine. So we went over to a place on the banks of the Avon, where, it was
+          said, we could gain a very perfect view of the church. The remembrance of this
+          spot is to me like a very pleasant dream. The day was bright, the air was soft
+          and still, as we walked up and down the alleys of a beautiful garden that
+          extended quite to the church; the rooks were dreamily cawing, and wheeling in
+          dark, airy circles round the old buttresses and spire. A funeral train had come
+          into the graveyard, and the passing bell was tolling. A thousand undefined
+          emotions struggled in my mind.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">That loving heart, that active fancy, that subtile, elastic
+          power of appreciating and expressing all phases, all passions of humanity, are
+          they breathed out on the wind? are they spent like the lightning? are they
+          exhaled like the breath of flowers? or are they still living, still active? and
+          if so, where and how? Is it reserved for us, in that "undiscovered country"
+          which he spoke of, ever to meet the great souls whose breath has kindled our
+          souls?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I think we forget the consequences of our own belief in
+          immortality, and look on the ranks of prostrate dead as a mower on fields of
+          prostrate flowers, forgetting that activity is an essential of souls, and that
+          every soul which has passed away from this world must ever since have been
+          actively developing those habits of mind and modes of feeling which it began
+          here.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The haughty, cruel, selfish Elizabeth, and all the great men of
+          her court, are still living and acting somewhere; but where? For my part I am
+          often reminded, when dwelling on departed genius, of Luther's ejaculation for
+          his favorite classic poet: "I hope God will have mercy on such."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We speak of the glory of God as exhibited in natural landscape
+          making; what is it, compared with the glory of God as shown in the making of
+          souls, especially those souls which seem to be endowed with a creative power
+          like his own?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There seems, strictly speaking, to be only two classes of
+          souls&mdash;the creative and the receptive. Now, these creators seem to me to
+          have a beauty and a worth about them entirely independent of their moral
+          character. That ethereal power which shows itself in Greek sculpture and Gothic
+          architecture, in Rubens, Shakspeare, and Mozart, has a quality to me
+          inexpressibly admirable and lovable. We may say, it is true, that there is no
+          moral excellence in it; but none the less do we admire it. God has made us so
+          that we cannot help loving it; our souls go forth to it with an infinite
+          longing, nor can that longing be condemned. That mystic quality that exists in
+          these souls is a glimpse and intimation of what exists in Him in full
+          perfection. If we remember this we shall not lose ourselves in admiration of
+          worldly genius, but be led by it to a better understanding of what He is, of
+          whom all the glories of poetry and art are but symbols and shadows.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_28" name="toc_28"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XI</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear
+          H.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From Stratford we drove to Warwick, (or "Warrick," as they call
+          it here.) This town stands on a rocky hill on the banks of the Avon, and is
+          quite a considerable place, for it returns two members to Parliament, and has
+          upwards of ten thousand inhabitants; and also has some famous manufactories of
+          wool combing and spinning. But what we came to see was the castle. We drove up
+          to the Warwick Arms, which is the principal hotel in the place; and, finding
+          that we were within the hours appointed for exhibition, we went
+          immediately.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">With my head in a kind of historical mist, full of images of
+          York and Lancaster, and Red and White Roses, and Warwick the king maker, I
+          looked up to the towers and battlements of the old castle. We went in through a
+          passage way cut in solid rock, about twenty feet deep, and I should think fifty
+          long. These walls were entirely covered with ivy, hanging down like green
+          streamers; gentle and peaceable pennons these are, waving and whispering that
+          the old war times are gone.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At the end of this passage there is a drawbridge over what was
+          formerly the moat, but which is now grassed and planted with shrubbery. Up over
+          our heads we saw the great iron teeth of the portcullis. A rusty old giant it
+          seemed up there, like Pope and Pagan in Pilgrim's Progress, finding no scope
+          for himself in these peaceable times.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image25.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">When we came fairly into the court yard of the castle, a scene
+          of magnificent beauty opened before us. I cannot describe it minutely. The
+          principal features are the battlements, towers, and turrets of the old feudal
+          castle, encompassed by grounds on which has been expended all that princely art
+          of landscape gardening for which England is famous&mdash;leafy thickets,
+          magnificent trees, openings, and vistas of verdure, and wide sweeps of grass,
+          short, thick, and vividly green, as the velvet moss we sometimes see growing on
+          rocks in New England. Grass is an art and a science in England&mdash;it is an
+          institution. The pains that are taken in sowing, tending, cutting, clipping,
+          rolling, and otherwise nursing and coaxing it, being seconded by the misty
+          breath and often falling tears of the climate, produce results which must be
+          seen to be appreciated.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">So again of trees in England. Trees here are an order of
+          nobility; and they wear their crowns right kingly. A few years ago, when Miss
+          Sedgwick was in this country, while admiring some splendid trees in a
+          nobleman's park, a lady standing by said to her encouragingly, "O, well, I
+          suppose your trees in America will be grown up after a while!" Since that time
+          another style of thinking of America has come up, and the remark that I most
+          generally hear made is, "O, I suppose we cannot think of showing you any thing
+          in the way of trees, coming as you do from America!" Throwing out of account,
+          however, the gigantic growth of our western river bottoms, where I have seen
+          sycamore trunks twenty feet in diameter&mdash;leaving out of account, I say,
+          all this mammoth arboria, these English parks have trees as fine and as
+          effective, of their kind, as any of ours; and when I say their trees are an
+          order of nobility, I mean that they pay a reverence to them such as their
+          magnificence deserves. Such elms as adorn the streets of New Haven, or overarch
+          the meadows of Andover, would in England be considered as of a value which no
+          money could represent; no pains, no expense would be spared to preserve their
+          life and health; they would never be shot dead by having gas pipes laid under
+          them, as they have been in some of our New England towns; or suffered to be
+          devoured by canker worms for want of any amount of money spent in their
+          defence.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Some of the finest trees in this place are magnificent cedars of
+          Lebanon, which bring to mind the expression in Psalms, "Excellent as the
+          cedars." They are the very impersonation of kingly majesty, and are fitted to
+          grace the old feudal stronghold of Warwick the king maker. These trees,
+          standing as they do amid magnificent sweeps and undulations of lawn, throwing
+          out their mighty arms with such majestic breadth and freedom of outline, are
+          themselves a living, growing, historical epic. Their seed was brought from Holy
+          Land in the old days of the crusades; and a hundred legends might be made up of
+          the time, date, and occasion of their planting. These crusades have left their
+          mark every where through Europe, from the cross panel on the doors of common
+          houses to the oriental touches and arabesques of castles and cathedrals.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the reign of Stephen there was a certain Roger de Newburg,
+          second Earl of Warwick, who appears to have been an exceedingly active and
+          public-spirited character; and, besides conquering part of Wales, founded in
+          this neighborhood various priories and hospitals, among which was the house of
+          the Templars, and a hospital for lepers. He made several pilgrimages to Holy
+          Land; and so I think it as likely as most theories that he ought to have the
+          credit of these cedars.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These Earls of Warwick appear always to have been remarkably
+          stirring men in their day and generation, and foremost in whatever was going on
+          in the world, whether political or religious. To begin, there was Guy, Earl of
+          Warwick, who lived somewhere in the times of the old dispensation, before King
+          Arthur, and who distinguished himself, according to the fashion of those days,
+          by killing giants and various colored dragons, among which a green one
+          especially figures. It appears that he slew also a notable dun cow, of a kind
+          of mastodon breed, which prevailed in those early days, which was making great
+          havoc in the neighborhood. In later times, when the giants, dragons, and other
+          animals of that sort were somewhat brought under, we find the Earls of Warwick
+          equally busy burning and slaying to the right and left; now crusading into
+          Palestine, and now fighting the French, who were a standing resort for activity
+          when nothing else was to be done; with great versatility diversifying these
+          affairs with pilgrimages to the holy sepulchre, and founding monasteries and
+          hospitals. One stout earl, after going to Palestine and laying about him like a
+          very dragon for some years, brought home a live Saracen king to London, and had
+          him baptized and made a Christian of, <em>vi et armis</em>.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">During the scuffle of the Roses, it was a Warwick, of course,
+          who was uppermost. Stout old Richard, the king maker, set up first one party
+          and then the other, according to his own sovereign pleasure, and showed as much
+          talent at fighting on both sides, and keeping the country in an uproar, as the
+          modern politicians of America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When the times of the Long Parliament and the Commonwealth came,
+          an Earl of Warwick was high admiral of England, and fought valiantly for the
+          Commonwealth, using the navy on the popular side; and his grandson married the
+          youngest daughter of Oliver Cromwell. When the royal family was to be restored,
+          an Earl of Warwick was one of the six lords who were sent to Holland for
+          Charles II. The earls of this family have been no less distinguished for
+          movements which have favored the advance of civilization and letters than for
+          energy in the battle field. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth an Earl of Warwick
+          founded the History Lecture at Cambridge, and left a salary for the professor.
+          This same earl was general patron of letters and arts, assisting many men of
+          talents, and was a particular and intimate friend of Sir Philip Sidney.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">What more especially concerns us as New Englanders is, that an
+          earl of this house was the powerful patron and protector of New England during
+          the earlier years of our country. This was Robert Greville, the high admiral of
+          England before alluded to, and ever looked upon as a protector of the Puritans.
+          Frequent allusion is made to him in Winthrop's Journal as performing various
+          good offices for them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The first grant of Connecticut was made to this earl, and by him
+          assigned to Lord Say and Seal, and Lord Brooke. The patronage which this earl
+          extended to the Puritans is more remarkable because in principle he was
+          favorable to Episcopacy. It appears to have been prompted by a chivalrous sense
+          of justice; probably the same which influenced old Guy of Warwick in the King
+          Arthur times, of whom the ancient chronicler says, "This worshipful knight, in
+          his acts of warre, ever consydered what parties had wronge, and therto would he
+          drawe."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The present earl has never taken a share in public or political
+          life, but resided entirely on his estate, devoting himself to the improvement
+          of his ground and tenants. He received the estate much embarrassed, and the
+          condition of the tenantry was at that time quite depressed. By the devotion of
+          his life it has been rendered one of the most flourishing and prosperous
+          estates in this part of England. I have heard him spoken of as a very
+          exemplary, excellent man. He is now quite advanced, and has been for some time
+          in failing health. He sent our party a very kind and obliging message, desiring
+          that we would consider ourselves fully at liberty to visit any part of the
+          grounds or castle, there being always some reservation as to what tourists may
+          visit.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We caught glimpses of him once or twice, supported by
+          attendants, as he was taking the air in one of the walks of the grounds, and
+          afterwards wheeled about in a garden chair.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The family has thrice died out in the direct line, and been
+          obliged to resuscitate through collateral branches; but it seems the blood
+          holds good notwithstanding. As to honors there is scarcely a possible
+          distinction in the state or army that has not at one time or other been the
+          property of this family.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Under the shade of these lofty cedars they have sprung and
+          fallen, an hereditary line of princes. One cannot but feel, in looking on these
+          majestic trees, with the battlements, turrets, and towers of the old castle
+          every where surrounding him, and the magnificent parks and lawns opening
+          through dreamy vistas of trees into what seems immeasurable distance, the force
+          of the soliloquy which Shakspeare puts into the mouth of the dying old king
+          maker, as he lies breathing out his soul in the dust and blood of the battle
+          field:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Thus yields the cedar to the axe's edge,</p>
+            <p class="l">Whose arms gave shelter to the princely eagle,</p>
+            <p class="l">Under whose shade the rampant lion slept;</p>
+            <p class="l">Whose top branch overpeered Jove's spreading tree,</p>
+            <p class="l">And kept low shrubs from, winter's powerful wind.</p>
+            <p class="l">These eyes, that now are dimmed with death's black veil,</p>
+            <p class="l">Have been as piercing as the midday sun</p>
+            <p class="l">To search, the secret treasons of the world:</p>
+            <p class="l">The wrinkles in my brow, now filled with blood,</p>
+            <p class="l">Were likened oft to kingly sepulchres;</p>
+            <p class="l">For who lived king but I could dig his grave?</p>
+            <p class="l">And who durst smile when Warwick bent his brow?</p>
+            <p class="l">Lo, now my glory smeared in dust and blood!</p>
+            <p class="l">My parks, my walks, my manors that I had,</p>
+            <p class="l">Even now forsake me; and of all my lands</p>
+            <p class="l">Is nothing left me but my body's length!</p>
+            <p class="l">Why, what is pomp, rule, reign, but earth and dust?</p>
+            <p class="l">And live we how we can, yet die we must."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="dgp">During Shakspeare's life Warwick was in the possession of
+          Greville, the friend of Sir Philip Sidney, and patron of arts and letters. It
+          is not, therefore, improbable that Shakspeare might, in his times, often have
+          been admitted to wander through the magnificent grounds, and it is more than
+          probable that the sight of these majestic cedars might have suggested the noble
+          image in this soliloquy. It is only about eight miles from Stratford, within
+          the fair limits of a comfortable pedestrian excursion, and certainly could not
+          but have been an object of deep interest to such a mind as his.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I have described the grounds first, but, in fact, we did not
+          look at them first, but went into the house where we saw not only all the state
+          rooms, but, through the kindness of the noble proprietor, many of those which
+          are not commonly exhibited; a bewildering display of magnificent apartments,
+          pictures, gems, vases, arms and armor, antiques, all, in short, that the wealth
+          of a princely and powerful family had for centuries been accumulating.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image26.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+          <p class="dgp">The great hall of the castle is sixty-two feet in length and
+          forty in breadth, ornamented with a richly carved Gothic roof, in which figures
+          largely the family cognizance of the bear and ragged staff. There is a
+          succession of shields, on which are emblazoned the quarterings of successive
+          Earls of Warwick. The sides of the wall are ornamented with lances, corselets,
+          shields, helmets, and complete suits of armor, regularly arranged as in an
+          armory. Here I learned what the buff coat is, which had so often puzzled me in
+          reading Scott's descriptions, as there were several hanging up here. It seemed
+          to be a loose doublet of chamois leather, which was worn under the armor, and
+          protected the body from its harshness.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here we saw the helmet of Cromwell, a most venerable relic.
+          Before the great, cavernous fireplace was piled up on a sled a quantity of yew
+          tree wood. The rude simplicity of thus arranging it on the polished floor of
+          this magnificent apartment struck me as quite singular. I suppose it is a
+          continuation of some ancient custom.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Opening from this apartment on either side are suits of rooms,
+          the whole series being three hundred and thirty-three feet in length. These
+          rooms are all hung with pictures, and studded with antiques and curiosities of
+          immense value. There is, first, the red drawing room, and then the cedar
+          drawing room, then the gilt drawing room, the state bed room, the boudoir,
+          &amp;c., &amp;c., hung with pictures by Vandyke, Rubens, Guido, Sir Joshua
+          Reynolds, Paul Veronese, any one of which would require days of study; of
+          course, the casual glance that one could give them in a rapid survey would not
+          amount to much.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were shown one table of gems and lapis lazuli, which cost
+          what would be reckoned a comfortable fortune in New England. For matters of
+          this kind I have little sympathy. The canvas, made vivid by the soul of an
+          inspired artist, tells me something of God's power in creating that soul; but a
+          table of gems is in no wise interesting to me, except so far as it is pretty in
+          itself.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I walked to one of the windows of these lordly apartments, and
+          while the company were examining buhl cabinets, and all other deliciousness of
+          the place, I looked down the old gray walls into the amber waters of the Avon,
+          which flows at their base, and thought that the most beautiful of all was
+          without. There is a tiny fall that crosses the river just above here, whose
+          waters turn the wheels of an old mossy mill, where for centuries the family
+          grain has been ground. The river winds away through the beautiful parks and
+          undulating foliage, its soft, grassy banks dotted here and there with sheep and
+          cattle, and you catch farewell gleams and glitters of it as it loses itself
+          among the trees.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Gray moss, wall flowers, ivy, and grass were growing here and
+          there out of crevices in the castle walls, as I looked down, sometimes trailing
+          their rippling tendrils in the river. This vegetative propensity of walls is
+          one of the chief graces of these old buildings.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the state bed room were a bed and furnishings of rich,
+          crimson velvet, once belonging to Queen Anne, and presented by George III. to
+          the Warwick family. The walls are hung with Brussels tapestry, representing the
+          gardens of Versailles as they were at the time. The chimney-piece, which is
+          sculptured of verde antique and white marble, supports two black marble vases
+          on its mantel. Over the mantel-piece is a full-length portrait of Queen Anne,
+          in a rich brocade dress, wearing the collar and jewels of the Garter, bearing
+          in one hand a sceptre, and in the other a globe. There are two splendid buhl
+          cabinets in the room, and a table of costly stone from Italy; it is mounted on
+          a richly carved and gilt stand.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The boudoir, which adjoins, is hung with pea-green satin and
+          velvet. In this room is one of the most authentic portraits of Henry VIII., by
+          Holbein, in which that selfish, brutal, unfeeling tyrant is veritably set
+          forth, with all the gold and gems which, in his day, blinded mankind; his fat,
+          white hands were beautifully painted. Men have found out Henry VIII. by this
+          time; he is a dead sinner, and nothing more is to be expected of him, and so he
+          gets a just award; but the disposition which bows down and worships any thing
+          of any character in our day which is splendid and successful, and excuses all
+          moral delinquencies, if they are only available, is not a whit better than that
+          which cringed before Henry.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the same room was a boar hunt, by Rubens, a disagreeable
+          subject, but wrought with wonderful power. There were several other pictures of
+          Holbein's in this room; one of Martin Luther.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We passed through a long corridor, whose sides were lined with
+          pictures, statues, busts, &amp;c. Out of the multitude, three particularly
+          interested me; one was a noble but melancholy bust of the Black Prince,
+          beautifully chiselled in white marble; another was a plaster cast, said to have
+          been taken of the face of Oliver Cromwell immediately after death. The face had
+          a homely strength amounting almost to coarseness. The evidences of its
+          genuineness appear in glancing at it; every thing is authentic, even to the
+          wart on his lip; no one would have imagined such a one, but the expression was
+          noble and peaceful, bringing to mind the oft-quoted words,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"After life's fitful fever, he sleeps well."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">At the end of the same corridor is a splendid picture of
+          Charles I. on horseback, by Vandyke, a most masterly performance, and appearing
+          in its position almost like a reality. Poor Charles had rather hard measure, it
+          always seemed to me. He simply did as all other princes had done before him;
+          that is to say, he lied steadily, invariably, and conscientiously, in every
+          instance where he thought he could gain any thing by it, just as Charles V.,
+          and Francis IV., and Catharine de Medicis, and Henry VIII., and Elizabeth, and
+          James, and all good royal folks had always done; and lo! <em>he</em> must lose
+          his head for it. His was altogether a more gentlemanly and respectable
+          performance than that of Henry, not wanting in a sort of ideal magnificence,
+          which his brutal predecessor, or even his shambling old father never dreamed
+          of. But so it is; it is not always on those who are sinners above all men that
+          the tower of Siloam falls, but only on those who happen to be under it when its
+          time comes. So I intend to cherish a little partiality for gentlemanly,
+          magnificent Charles I.; and certainly one could get no more splendid idea of
+          him than by seeing him stately, silent, and melancholy on his white horse, at
+          the end of this long corridor. There he sits, facing the calm, stony, sleeping
+          face of Oliver, and neither question or reply passes between them.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From this corridor we went into the chapel, whose Gothic
+          windows, filled with rich, old painted glass, cast a many-colored light over
+          the oak-carved walls and altar-piece. The ceiling is of fine, old oak, wrought
+          with the arms of the family. The window over the altar is the gift of the Earl
+          of Essex. This room is devoted to the daily religious worship of the family. It
+          has been the custom of the present earl in former years to conduct the
+          devotions of the family here himself.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">About this time my head and eyes came to that point which
+          Solomon intimates to be not commonly arrived at by mortals&mdash;when the eye
+          is satisfied with seeing. I remember a confused ramble through apartment after
+          apartment, but not a single thing in them, except two pictures of Salvator
+          Rosa's, which I thought extremely ugly, and was told, as people always are when
+          they make such declarations, that the difficulty was entirely in myself, and
+          that if I would study them two or three months in faith, I should perceive
+          something very astonishing. This may be, but it holds equally good of the coals
+          of an evening fire, or the sparks on a chimney back; in either of which, by
+          resolute looking, and some imagination, one can see any thing he chooses. I
+          utterly distrust this process, by which old black pictures are looked into
+          shape; but then I have nothing to lose, being in the court of the Gentiles in
+          these matters, and obstinately determined not to believe in any real presence
+          in art which I cannot perceive by my senses.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After having examined all the upper stories, we went down into
+          the vaults underneath&mdash;vaults once grim and hoary, terrible to captives
+          and feudal enemies, now devoted to no purpose more grim than that of coal
+          cellars and wine vaults. In Oliver's time, a regiment was quartered there: they
+          are extensive enough, apparently, for an army.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The kitchen and its adjuncts are of magnificent dimensions, and
+          indicate an amplitude in the way of provision for good cheer worthy an ancient
+          house; and what struck me as a still better feature was a library of sound,
+          sensible, historical, and religious works for the servants.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We went into the beer vaults, where a man drew beer into a long
+          black jack, such as Scott describes. It is a tankard, made of black leather, I
+          should think half a yard deep. He drew the beer from a large hogshead, and
+          offered us some in a glass. It looked very clear, but, on tasting, I found it
+          so exceedingly bitter that it struck me there would be small virtue for me in
+          abstinence.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In passing up to go out of the house, we met in the entry two
+          pleasant-looking young women, dressed in white muslin. As they passed us, a
+          door opened where a table was handsomely set out, at which quite a number of
+          well-dressed people were seating themselves. I withdrew my eyes immediately,
+          fearing lest I had violated some privacy. Our conductor said to us, "That is
+          the upper servants' dining room."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Once in the yard again, we went to see some of the older parts
+          of the building. The oldest of these, Caesar's Tower, which is said to go back
+          to the time of the Romans, is not now shown to visitors. Beneath it is a dark,
+          damp dungeon, where prisoners used to be confined, the walls of which are
+          traced all over with inscriptions and rude drawings.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then you are conducted to Guy's Tower, named, I suppose, after
+          the hero of the green dragon and dun cow. Here are five tiers of guard rooms,
+          and by the ascent of a hundred and thirty-three steps you reach the
+          battlements, where you gain a view of the whole court and grounds, as well as
+          of the beautiful surrounding landscape.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In coming down from this tower, we somehow or other got upon the
+          ramparts, which connect it with the great gate. We walked on the wall four
+          abreast, and played that we were knights and ladies of the olden time, walking
+          on the ramparts. And I picked a bough from an old pine tree that grew over our
+          heads; it much resembled our American yellow pitch pine.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Then we went down and crossed the grounds to the greenhouse, to
+          see the famous Warwick vase. The greenhouse is built with a Gothic stone front,
+          situated on a fine point in the landscape. And there, on a pedestal, surrounded
+          by all manner of flowering shrubs, stands this celebrated antique. It is of
+          white marble, and was found at the bottom of a lake near Adrian's villa, in
+          Italy. They say that it holds a hundred and thirty-six gallons; constructed, I
+          suppose, in the roistering old drinking times of the Roman emperors, when men
+          seem to have discovered that the grand object for which they were sent into
+          existence was to perform the functions of wine skins. It is beautifully
+          sculptured with grape leaves, and the skin and claws of the panther&mdash;these
+          latter certainly not an inappropriate emblem of the god of wine, beautiful, but
+          dangerous.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Well, now it was all done. Merodach Baladan had not a more
+          perfect <em>expos&eacute;</em> of the riches of Hezekiah than we had of the
+          glories of Warwick. One always likes to see the most perfect thing of its kind;
+          and probably this is the most perfect specimen of the feudal ages yet remaining
+          in England.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As I stood with Joseph Sturge under the old cedars of Lebanon,
+          and watched the multitude of tourists, and parties of pleasure, who were
+          thronging the walks, I said to him, "After all, this establishment amounts to a
+          public museum and pleasure grounds for the use of the people." He assented.
+          "And," said I, "you English people like these things; you like these old
+          magnificent seats, kept up by old families." "That is what I tell them," said
+          Joseph Sturge. "I tell them there is no danger in enlarging the suffrage, for
+          the people would not break up these old establishments if they could." On that
+          point, of course, I had no means of forming an opinion.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One cannot view an institution so unlike any thing we have in
+          our own country without having many reflections excited, for one of these
+          estates may justly be called an institution; it includes within itself all the
+          influence on a community of a great model farm, of model housekeeping, of a
+          general museum of historic remains, and of a gallery of fine arts.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is a fact that all these establishments through England are,
+          at certain fixed hours, thrown open for the inspection of whoever may choose to
+          visit them, with no other expense than the gratuity which custom requires to be
+          given to the servant who shows them. I noticed, as we passed from one part of
+          the ground to another, that our guides changed&mdash;one part apparently being
+          the perquisite of one servant, and one of another. Many of the servants who
+          showed them appeared to be superannuated men, who probably had this post as one
+          of the dignities and perquisites of their old age.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The influence of these estates on the community cannot but be in
+          many respects beneficial, and should go some way to qualify the prejudice with
+          which republicans are apt to contemplate any thing aristocratic; for although
+          the legal title to these things inheres in but one man, yet in a very important
+          sense they belong to the whole community, indeed, to universal humanity. It may
+          be very undesirable and unwise to wish to imitate these institutions in
+          America, and yet it may be illiberal to undervalue them as they stand in
+          England. A man would not build a house, in this nineteenth century, on the
+          pattern of a feudal castle; and yet where the feudal castle is built, surely
+          its antique grace might plead somewhat in its favor, and it may be better to
+          accommodate it to modern uses, than to level it, and erect a modern mansion in
+          its place.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Nor, since the world is wide, and now being rapidly united by
+          steam into one country, does the objection to these things, on account of the
+          room they take up, seem so great as formerly. In the million of square miles of
+          the globe there is room enough for all sorts of things.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">With such reflections the lover of the picturesque may comfort
+          himself, hoping that he is not sinning against the useful in his admiration of
+          the beautiful.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One great achievement of the millennium, I trust, will be in
+          uniting these two elements, which have ever been contending. There was great
+          significance in the old Greek fable which represented Venus as the
+          divinely-appointed helpmeet of Vulcan, and yet always quarrelling with him.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We can scarce look at the struggling, earth-bound condition of
+          useful labor through the world without joining in the beautiful aspiration of
+          our American poet,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Surely, the wiser time shall come</p>
+            <p class="l">When this fine overplus of might,</p>
+            <p class="l">No longer sullen, slow, and dumb,</p>
+            <p class="l">Shall leap to music and to light.</p>
+          </div>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">In that new childhood of the world</p>
+            <p class="l">Life of itself shall dance and play,</p>
+            <p class="l">Fresh blood through Time's shrunk veins be hurled,</p>
+            <p class="l">And labor meet delight half way."<a href="#note_13"><span
+            class="footnoteref">13</span></a></p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">In the new state of society which we are trying to found in
+          America, it must be our effort to hasten the consummation. These great estates
+          of old countries may keep it for their share of the matter to work out perfect
+          models, while we will seize the ideas thus elaborated, and make them the
+          property of the million.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we were going out, we stopped a little while at the porter's
+          lodge to look at some relics.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now, I dare say that you have been thinking, all the while, that
+          these stories about the wonderful Guy are a sheer fabrication, or, to use a
+          convenient modern term, a myth. Know, then, that the identical armor belonging
+          to him is still preserved here; to wit, the sword, about seven feet long, a
+          shield, helmet, breastplate, and tilting pole, together with his porridge pot,
+          which holds one hundred and twenty gallons, and a large fork, as they call it,
+          about three feet long; I am inclined to think this must have been his
+          toothpick! His sword weighs twenty pounds.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is, moreover, a rib of the mastodon cow which he killed,
+          hung up for the terror of all refractory beasts of that name in modern
+          days.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Furthermore, know, then, that there are authentic documents in
+          the Ashmolean Museum, at Oxford, showing that the family run back to within
+          four years after the birth of Christ, so that there is abundance of time for
+          them to have done a little of almost every thing. It appears that they have
+          been always addicted to exploits, since we read of one of them, soon after the
+          Christian era, encountering a giant, who ran upon him with a tree which he had
+          snapped off for the purpose, for it seems giants were not nice in the choice of
+          weapons; but the chronicler says, "The Lord had grace with him, and overcame
+          the giant," and in commemoration of this event the family introduced into their
+          arms the ragged staff.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is recorded of another of the race, that he was one of seven
+          children born at a birth, and that all the rest of his brothers and sisters
+          were, by enchantment, turned into swans with gold collars. This remarkable case
+          occurred in the time of the grandfather of Sir Guy, and of course, if we
+          believe this, we shall find no difficulty in the case of the cow, or any thing
+          else.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is a very scarce book in the possession of a gentleman of
+          Warwick, written by one Dr. John Kay, or caius, in which he gives an account of
+          the rare and peculiar animals of England in 1552. In this he mentioned seeing
+          the bones of the head and the vertebrae of the neck of an enormous animal at
+          Warwick Castle. He states that the shoulder blade was hung up by chains from
+          the north gate of Coventry, and that a rib of the same animal was hanging up in
+          the chapel of Guy, Earl of Warwick, and that the people fancied it to be the
+          rib of a cow which haunted a ditch near Coventry, and did injury to many
+          persons; and he goes on to imagine that this may be the bone of a bonasus or a
+          urus. He says, "It is probable many animals of this kind formerly lived in our
+          England, being of old an island full of woods and forests, because even in our
+          boyhood the horns of these animals were in common use at the table." The story
+          of Sir Guy is furthermore quite romantic, and contains some circumstances very
+          instructive to all ladies. For the chronicler asserts, "that Dame Felye,
+          daughter and heire to Erle Rohand, for her beauty called Fely le Belle, or
+          Felys the Fayre, by true enheritance, was Countesse of Warwyke, and lady and
+          wyfe to the most victoriouse Knight, Sir Guy, to whom in his woing tyme she
+          made greate straungeres, and caused him, for her sake, to put himself in meny
+          greate distresses, dangers, and perills; but when they were wedded, and b'en
+          but a little season together, he departed from her, to her greate hevynes, and
+          never was conversant with her after, to her understandinge." That this may not
+          appear to be the result of any revengeful spirit on the part of Sir Guy, the
+          chronicler goes on further to state his motives&mdash;that, after his marriage,
+          considering what he had done for a woman's sake, he thought to spend the other
+          part of his life for God's sake, and so departed from his lady in pilgrim
+          weeds, which raiment he kept to his life's end. After wandering about a good
+          many years he settled in a hermitage, in a place not far from the castle,
+          called Guy's Cliff, and when his lady distributed food to beggars at the castle
+          gate, was in the habit of coming among them to receive alms, without making
+          himself known to her. It states, moreover, that two days before his death an
+          angel informed him of the time of his departure, and that his lady would die a
+          fortnight after him, which happening accordingly, they were both buried in the
+          grave together. A romantic cavern, at the place called Guy's Cliff, is shown as
+          the dwelling of the recluse. The story is a curious relic of the religious
+          ideas of the times.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On our way from the castle we passed by Guy's Cliff, which is at
+          present the seat of the Hon. C.B. Percy. The establishment looked beautifully
+          from the road, as we saw it up a long avenue of trees; it is one of the places
+          travellers generally examine, but as we were bound for Kenilworth we were
+          content to take it on trust. It is but a short drive from there to Kenilworth.
+          We got there about the middle of the afternoon. Kenilworth has been quite as
+          extensive as Warwick, though now entirely gone to ruins. I believe Oliver
+          Cromwell's army have the credit of finally dismantling it. Cromwell seems
+          literally to have left his mark on his generation, for I never saw a ruin in
+          England when I did not hear that he had something to do with it. Every broken
+          arch and ruined battlement seemed always to find a sufficient account of itself
+          by simply enunciating the word Cromwell. And when we see how much the Puritans
+          arrayed against themselves all the &aelig;sthetic principles of our nature, we
+          can somewhat pardon those who did not look deeper than the surface, for the
+          prejudice with which they regarded the whole movement; a movement, however, of
+          which we, and all which is most precious to us, are the lineal descendants and
+          heirs.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We wandered over the ruins, which are very extensive, and which
+          Scott, with his usual vivacity and accuracy, has restored and repeopled. We
+          climbed up into Amy Robsart's chamber; we scrambled into one of the arched
+          windows of what was formerly the great dining hall, where Elizabeth feasted in
+          the midst of her lords and ladies, and where every stone had rung to the sound
+          of merriment and revelry. The windows are broken out; it is roofless and
+          floorless, waving and rustling with pendent ivy, and vocal with the song of
+          hundreds of little birds.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We wandered from room to room, looking up and seeing in the
+          walls the desolate fireplaces, tier over tier, the places where the beams of
+          the floors had gone into the walls, and still the birds continued their singing
+          every where.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Nothing affected me more than this ceaseless singing and
+          rejoicing of birds in these old gray ruins. They seemed so perfectly joyous and
+          happy amid the desolations, so airy and fanciful in their bursts of song, so
+          ignorant and careless of the deep meaning of the gray desolation around them,
+          that I could not but be moved. It was nothing to them how these stately,
+          sculptured walls became lonely and ruinous, and all the weight of a thousand
+          thoughts and questionings which arise to us is never even dreamed by them. They
+          sow not, neither do they reap, but their heavenly Father feeds them; and so the
+          wilderness and the desolate place is glad in them, and they are glad in the
+          wilderness and desolate place.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was a beautiful conception, this making of birds. Shelley
+          calls them "imbodied joys;" and Christ says, that amid the vaster ruins of
+          man's desolation, ruins more dreadfully suggestive than those of sculptured
+          frieze and architrave, we can yet live a bird's life of unanxious joy; or, as
+          Martin Luther beautifully paraphrases it, "We can be like a bird, that sits
+          singing on his twig and lets God think for him."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The deep consciousness that we are ourselves ruined, and that
+          this world is a desolation more awful, and of more sublime material, and
+          wrought from stuff of higher temper than ever was sculptured in hall or
+          cathedral, this it must be that touches such deep springs of sympathy in the
+          presence of ruins. We, too, are desolate, shattered, and scathed; there are
+          traceries and columns of celestial workmanship; there are heaven-aspiring
+          arches, splendid colonnades and halls, but fragmentary all. Yet above us bends
+          an all-pitying Heaven, and spiritual voices and callings in our hearts, like
+          these little singing birds, speak of a time when almighty power shall take
+          pleasure in these stones, and favor the dust thereof.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We sat on the top of the strong tower, and looked off into the
+          country, and talked a good while. Some of the ivy that mantles this building
+          has a trunk as large as a man's body, and throws out numberless strong arms,
+          which, interweaving, embrace and interlace half-falling towers, and hold them
+          up in a living, growing mass of green.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The walls of one of the oldest towers are sixteen feet thick.
+          The lake, which Scott speaks of, is dried up and grown over with rushes. The
+          former moat presents only a grassy hollow. What was formerly a gate house is
+          still inhabited by the family who have the care of the building. The land
+          around the gate house is choicely and carefully laid out, and has high, clipped
+          hedges of a species of variegated holly.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Thus much of old castles and ivy. Farewell to Kenilworth.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image27.png"
+          alt="" /></p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_29" name="toc_29"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XII</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          H.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After leaving Kenilworth we drove to Coventry, where we took the
+          cars again. This whole ride from Stratford to Warwick, and on to Coventry,
+          answers more to my ideas of old England than any thing I have seen; it is
+          considered one of the most beautiful parts of the kingdom. It has quaint old
+          houses, and a certain air of rural, picturesque quiet, which is very
+          charming.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Coventry is old and queer, with narrow streets and curious
+          houses, famed for the ancient legend of Godiva, one of those beautiful myths
+          that grow, like the mistletoe, on the bare branches of history, and which, if
+          they never were true in the letter, have been a thousand times true in the
+          spirit.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The evening came on raw and chilly, so that we rejoiced to find
+          ourselves once more in the curtained parlor by the bright, sociable fire.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As we were drinking tea Elihu Burritt came in. It was the first
+          time I had ever seen him, though I had heard a great deal of him from our
+          friends in Edinburgh. He is a man in middle life, tall and slender, with fair
+          complexion, blue eyes, an air of delicacy and refinement, and manners of great
+          gentleness. My ideas of the "Learned Blacksmith" had been of something
+          altogether more ponderous and peremptory. Elihu has been, for some years,
+          operating in England and on the continent in a movement which many, in our
+          half-Christianized times, regard with as much incredulity as the grim, old,
+          warlike barons did the suspicious imbecilities of reading and writing. The
+          sword now, as then, seems so much more direct a way to terminate controversies,
+          that many Christian men, even, cannot conceive how the world is to get along
+          without it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Burritt's mode of operation has been by the silent organization
+          of circles of ladies in all the different towns of the United Kingdom, who
+          raise a certain sum for the diffusion of the principles of peace on earth and
+          good will to men. Articles, setting forth the evils of war, moral, political,
+          and social, being prepared, these circles pay for their insertion in all the
+          principal newspapers of the continent. They have secured to themselves in this
+          way a continual utterance in France, Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, and
+          Germany; so that from week to week, and month to month, they can insert
+          articles upon these subjects. Many times the editors insert the articles as
+          editorial, which still further favors their design. In addition to this, the
+          ladies of these circles in England correspond with the ladies of similar
+          circles existing in other countries; and in this way there is a mutual
+          kindliness of feeling established through these countries.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When recently war was threatening between England and France,
+          through the influence of these societies conciliatory addresses were sent from
+          many of the principal towns of England to many of the principal towns of
+          France; and the effect of these measures in allaying irritation and agitation
+          was very perceptible.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Furthermore, these societies are preparing numerous little books
+          for children, in which the principles of peace, kindness, and mutual
+          forbearance are constantly set forth, and the evil and unchristian nature of
+          the mere collision of brute force exemplified in a thousand ways. These tracts
+          also are reprinted in the other modern languages of Europe, and are becoming a
+          part of family literature.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The object had in view by those in this movement is, the general
+          disbandment of standing armies and warlike establishments, and the arrangement,
+          in their place, of some settled system of national arbitration. They suggest
+          the organization of some tribunal of international law, which shall correspond
+          to the position of the Supreme Court of the United States with reference to the
+          several states. The fact that the several states of our Union, though each a
+          distinct sovereignty, yet agree in this arrangement, is held up as an instance
+          of its practicability. These ideas are not to be considered entirely
+          chimerical, if we reflect that commerce and trade are as essentially opposed to
+          war as is Christianity. War is the death of commerce, manufactures,
+          agriculture, and the fine arts. Its evil results are always certain and
+          definite, its good results scattered and accidental. The whole current of
+          modern society is as much against war as against slavery; and the time must
+          certainly come when some more rational and humane mode of resolving national
+          difficulties will prevail.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When we ask these reformers how people are to be freed from the
+          yoke of despotism without war, they answer, "By the diffusion of ideas among
+          the masses&mdash;by teaching the bayonets to think." They say, "If we convince
+          every individual soldier of a despot's army that war is ruinous, immoral, and
+          unchristian, we take the instrument out of the tyrant's hand. If each
+          individual man would refuse to rob and murder for the Emperor of Austria, and
+          the Emperor of Russia, where would be their power to hold Hungary? What gave
+          power to the masses in the French revolution, but that the army, pervaded by
+          new ideas, refused any longer to keep the people down?"</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These views are daily gaining strength in England. They are
+          supported by the whole body of the Quakers, who maintain them with that degree
+          of inflexible perseverance and never-dying activity which have rendered the
+          benevolent actions of that body so efficient. The object that they are aiming
+          at is one most certain to be accomplished, infallible as the prediction that
+          swords are to be beaten into ploughshares, and spears into pruning-hooks, and
+          that nations shall learn war no more.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This movement, small and despised in its origin, has gained
+          strength from year to year, and now has an effect on the public opinion of
+          England which is quite perceptible.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We spent the evening in talking over these things, and also
+          various topics relating to the antislavery movement. Mr. Sturge was very
+          confident that something more was to be done than had ever been done yet, by
+          combinations for the encouragement of free, in the place of slave-grown,
+          produce; a question which has, ever since the days of Clarkson, more or less
+          deeply occupied the minds of abolitionists in England.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I should say that Mr. Sturge in his family has for many years
+          conscientiously forborne the use of any article produced by slave labor. I
+          could scarcely believe it possible that there could be such an abundance and
+          variety of all that is comfortable and desirable in the various departments of
+          household living within these limits. Mr. Sturge presents the subject with very
+          great force, the more so from the consistency of his example.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From what I have since observed, as well as from what they said,
+          I should imagine that the Quakers generally pursue this course of entire
+          separation from all connection with slavery, even in the disuse of its
+          products. The subject of the disuse of slave-grown produce has obtained
+          currency in the same sphere in which Elihu Burritt operates, and has excited
+          the attention of the Olive Leaf Circles. Its prospects are not so weak as on
+          first view might be imagined, if we consider that Great Britain has large
+          tracts of cotton-growing land at her disposal in India. It has been calculated
+          that, were suitable railroads and arrangements for transportation provided for
+          India, cotton could be raised in that empire sufficient for the whole wants of
+          England, at a rate much cheaper than it can be imported from America. Not only
+          so, but they could then afford to furnish cotton cheaper at Lowell than the
+          same article could be procured from the Southern States.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is consolatory to know that a set of men have undertaken this
+          work whose perseverance in any thing once begun has never been daunted. Slave
+          labor is becoming every year more expensive in America. The wide market which
+          has been opened for it has raised it to such an extravagant price as makes the
+          stocking of a plantation almost ruinous. If England enters the race with free
+          labor, which has none of these expenses, and none of the risk, she will be sure
+          to succeed. All the forces of nature go with free labor; and all the forces of
+          nature resist slave labor. The stars in their courses fight against it; and it
+          cannot but be that ere long some way will be found to bring these two forces to
+          a decisive issue.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. Sturge seemed exceedingly anxious that the American states
+          should adopt the theory of immediate, and not gradual, emancipation. I told him
+          the great difficulty was to persuade them to think of any emancipation at all;
+          that the present disposition was to treat slavery as the pillar and ground of
+          the truth, the ark of religion, the summary of morals, and the only true
+          millennial form of modern society.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">He gave me, however, a little account of their antislavery
+          struggles in England, and said, what was well worthy of note, that they made no
+          apparent progress in affecting public opinion until they firmly advocated the
+          right of every innocent being to immediate and complete freedom, without any
+          conditions. He said that a woman is fairly entitled to the credit of this
+          suggestion. Elizabeth Heyrick of Leicester, a member of the society of Friends,
+          published a pamphlet entitled Immediate, not Gradual Emancipation. This little
+          pamphlet contains much good sense; and, being put forth at a time when men were
+          really anxious to know the truth, produced a powerful impression.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">She remarked, very sensibly, that the difficulty had arisen from
+          indistinct ideas in respect to what is implied in emancipation. She went on to
+          show that emancipation did not imply freedom from government and restraint;
+          that it properly brought a slave under the control of the law, instead of that
+          of an individual; and that it was possible so to apply law as perfectly to
+          control the emancipated. This is an idea which seems simple enough when pointed
+          out; but men often stumble a long while before they discover what is most
+          obvious.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next day was Sunday; and, in order to preserve our
+          incognito, and secure an uninterrupted rest, free from conversation and
+          excitement, we were obliged to deprive ourselves of the pleasure of hearing our
+          friend Rev. John Angell James, which we had much desired to do.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It was a warm, pleasant day, and we spent much of our time in a
+          beautiful arbor constructed in a retired place in the garden, where the trees
+          and shrubbery were so arranged as to make a most charming retreat.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The grounds of Mr. Sturge are very near to those of his
+          brother&mdash;only a narrow road interposing between them. They have contrived
+          to make them one by building under this road a subterranean passage, so that
+          the two families can pass and repass into each other's grounds in perfect
+          privacy.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">These English gardens delight me much; they unite variety,
+          quaintness, and an imitation of the wildness of nature with the utmost care and
+          cultivation. I was particularly pleased with the rockwork, which at times
+          formed the walls of certain walks, the hollows and interstices of which were
+          filled with every variety of creeping plants. Mr. Sturge told me that the
+          substance of which these rockeries are made is sold expressly for the
+          purpose.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On one side of the grounds was an old-fashioned cottage, which
+          one of my friends informed me Mr. Sturge formerly kept fitted up as a water
+          cure hospital, for those whose means did not allow them to go to larger
+          establishments. The plan was afterwards abandoned. One must see that such an
+          enterprise would have many practical difficulties.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At noon we dined in the house of the other brother, Mr. Edmund
+          Sturge. Here I noticed a full-length engraving of Joseph Sturge. He is
+          represented as standing with his hand placed protectingly on the head of a
+          black child.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We enjoyed our quiet season with these two families exceedingly.
+          We seemed to feel ourselves in an atmosphere where all was peace and good will
+          to man. The little children, after dinner, took us through the walks, to show
+          us their beautiful rabbits and other pets. Every thing seemed in order,
+          peaceable and quiet. Towards evening we went back through the arched passage to
+          the other house again. My Sunday here has always seemed to me a pleasant kind
+          of pastoral, much like the communion of Christian and Faithful with the
+          shepherds on the Delectable Mountains.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">What is remarkable of all these Friends is, that, although they
+          have been called, in the prosecution of philanthropic enterprises, to encounter
+          so much opposition, and see so much of the unfavorable side of human nature,
+          they are so habitually free from any tinge of uncharitableness or evil speaking
+          in their statements with regard to the character and motives of others. There
+          is also an habitual avoidance of all exaggerated forms of statement, a sobriety
+          of diction, which, united with great affectionateness of manner, inspires the
+          warmest confidence.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">C. had been, with Mr. Sturge, during the afternoon, to a meeting
+          of the Friends, and heard a discourse from Sibyl Jones, one of the most popular
+          of their female preachers. Sibyl is a native of the town of Brunswick, in the
+          State of Maine. She and her husband, being both preachers, have travelled
+          extensively in the prosecution of various philanthropic and religious
+          enterprises.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening Mr. Sturge said that she had expressed a desire
+          to see me. Accordingly I went with him to call upon her, and found her in the
+          family of two aged Friends, surrounded by a circle of the same denomination.
+          She is a woman of great delicacy of appearance, betokening very frail health. I
+          am told that she is most of her time in a state of extreme suffering from
+          neuralgic complaints. There was a mingled expression of enthusiasm and
+          tenderness in her face which was very interesting. She had had, according to
+          the language of her sect, a concern upon her mind for me.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To my mind there is something peculiarly interesting about that
+          primitive simplicity and frankness with which the members of this body express
+          themselves. She desired to caution me against the temptations of too much
+          flattery and applause, and against the worldliness which might beset me in
+          London. Her manner of addressing me was like one who is commissioned with a
+          message which must be spoken with plainness and sincerity. After this the whole
+          circle kneeled, and she offered prayer. I was somewhat painfully impressed with
+          her evident fragility of body, compared with the enthusiastic workings of her
+          mind.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the course of the conversation she inquired if I was going to
+          Ireland. I told her, yes, that was my intention. She begged that I would visit
+          the western coast, adding, with great feeling, "It was the miseries which I saw
+          there which have brought my health to the state it is." She had travelled
+          extensively in the Southern States, and had, in private conversation, been able
+          very fully to bear her witness against slavery, and had never been heard with
+          unkindness.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The whole incident afforded me matter for reflection. The
+          calling of women to distinct religious vocations, it appears to me, was a part
+          of primitive Christianity; has been one of the most efficient elements of power
+          in the Romish church; obtained among the Methodists in England; and has, in all
+          these cases, been productive of great good. The deaconesses whom the apostle
+          mentions with honor in his epistle, Madame Guyon in the Romish church, Mrs.
+          Fletcher, Elizabeth Fry, are instances which show how much may be done for
+          mankind by women who feel themselves impelled to a special religious
+          vocation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Bible, which always favors liberal development, countenances
+          this idea, by the instances of Deborah, Anna the prophetess, and by allusions
+          in the New Testament, which plainly show that the prophetic gift descended upon
+          women. St. Peter, quoting from the prophetic writings, says, "Upon your sons
+          and upon your daughters I will pour out my spirit, and they shall prophesy."
+          And St. Paul alludes to women praying and prophesying in the public assemblies
+          of the Christians, and only enjoins that it should be done with becoming
+          attention to the established usages of female delicacy. The example of the
+          Quakers is a sufficient proof that acting upon this idea does not produce
+          discord and domestic disorder. No class of people are more remarkable for
+          quietness and propriety of deportment, and for household order and domestic
+          excellence. By the admission of this liberty, the world is now and then gifted
+          with a woman like Elizabeth Fry, while the family state loses none of its
+          security and sacredness. No one in our day can charge the ladies of the Quaker
+          sect with boldness or indecorum; and they have demonstrated that even public
+          teaching, when performed under the influence of an overpowering devotional
+          spirit, does not interfere with feminine propriety and modesty.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The fact is, that the number of women to whom this vocation is
+          given will always be comparatively few: they are, and generally will be,
+          exceptions; and the majority of the religious world, ancient and modern, has
+          decided that these exceptions are to be treated with reverence.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The next morning, as we were sitting down to breakfast, our
+          friends of the other house sent in to me a plate of the largest, finest
+          strawberries I have ever seen, which, considering that it was only the latter
+          part of April, seemed to me quite an astonishing luxury.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">On the morning before we left we had agreed to meet a circle of
+          friends from Birmingham, consisting of the Abolition Society there, which is of
+          long standing, extending back in its memories to the very commencement of the
+          agitation under Clarkson and Wilberforce. It was a pleasant morning, the 1st of
+          May. The windows of the parlor were opened to the ground; and the company
+          invited filled not only the room, but stood in a crowd on the grass around the
+          window. Among the peaceable company present was an admiral in the navy, a fine,
+          cheerful old gentleman, who entered with hearty interest into the scene.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The lady secretary of the society read a neatly-written address,
+          full of kind feeling and Christian sentiment. Joseph Sturge made a few sensible
+          and practical remarks on the present aspects of the antislavery cause in the
+          world, and the most practical mode of assisting it among English Christians. He
+          dwelt particularly on the encouragement of free labor. The Rev. John Angell
+          James followed with some extremely kind and interesting remarks, and Mr. S.
+          replied. As we were intending to return to this city to make a longer visit, we
+          felt that this interview was but a glimpse of friends whom we hoped to know
+          more perfectly hereafter.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A throng of friends accompanied us to the depot. We had the
+          pleasure of the company of Elihu Burritt, and enjoyed a delightful run to
+          London, where we arrived towards evening.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_30" name="toc_30"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XIII</h2>
+          <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear
+          Sister</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At the station house in London, we found Rev. Messrs. Binney and
+          Sherman waiting for us with carriages. C. went with Mr. Sherman, and Mr. S. and
+          I soon found ourselves in a charming retreat called Rose Cottage, in Walworth,
+          about which I will tell you more anon. Mrs. B. received us with every attention
+          which the most thoughtful hospitality could suggest.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">S. and W., who had gone on before us, and taken lodgings very
+          near, were there waiting to receive us. One of the first things S. said to me,
+          after we got into our room, was, "O, H&mdash;&mdash;, we are so glad you have
+          come, for we are all going to the lord mayor's dinner to night, and you are
+          invited."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"What!" said I, "the lord mayor of London, that I used to read
+          about in Whittington and his Cat?" And immediately there came to my ears the
+          sound of the old chime, which made so powerful an impression on my childish
+          memory, wherein all the bells of London were represented as tolling.</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"Turn again, Whittington,</p>
+            <p class="l">Thrice lord mayor of London."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">It is curious what an influence these old rhymes have on
+          our associations.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">S. went on to tell me that the party was the annual dinner given
+          to the judges of England by the lord mayor, and that there we should see the
+          whole English bar, and hosts of <em>distingu&eacute;s</em> besides. So, though
+          I was tired, I hurried to dress in all the glee of meeting an adventure, as Mr.
+          and Mrs. B. and the rest of the party were ready. Crack went the whip, round
+          went the wheels, and away we drove.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We alighted at the Mansion House, and entered a large
+          illuminated hall, supported by pillars. Chandeliers were glittering, servants
+          with powdered heads and gold lace coats were hurrying to and fro in every
+          direction, receiving company and announcing names. Do you want to know how
+          announcing is done? Well, suppose a staircase, a hall, and two or three
+          corridors, intervening between you and the drawing room. At all convenient
+          distances on this route are stationed these grave, powdered-headed gentlemen,
+          with their embroidered coats. You walk up to the first one, and tell him
+          confidentially that you are Miss Smith. He calls to the man on the first
+          landing, "Miss Smith." The man on the landing says to the man in the corridor,
+          "Miss Smith." The man in the corridor shouts to the man at the drawing room
+          door, "Miss Smith." And thus, following the sound of your name, you hear it for
+          the last time shouted aloud, just before you enter the room.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We found a considerable throng, and I was glad to accept a seat
+          which was offered me in the agreeable vicinity of the lady mayoress, so that I
+          might see what would be interesting to me of the ceremonial.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The titles in law here, as in every thing else, are manifold;
+          and the powdered-headed gentleman at the door pronounced them with an evident
+          relish, which was joyous to hear&mdash;Mr. Attorney, Mr. Solicitor, and Mr.
+          Sergeant; Lord Chief Baron, Lord Chief Justice, and Lord this, and Lord that,
+          and Lord the other, more than I could possibly remember, as in they came
+          dressed in black, with smallclothes and silk stockings, with swords by their
+          sides, and little cocked hats under their arms, bowing gracefully before the
+          lady mayoress.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I saw no big wigs, but some wore the hair tied behind with a
+          small black silk bag attached to it. Some of the principal men were dressed in
+          black velvet, which became them finely. Some had broad shirt frills of point or
+          Mechlin lace, with wide ruffles of the same round their wrists.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Poor C., barbarian that he was, and utterly unaware of the
+          priceless gentility of the thing, said to me, <em>sotto voce</em>, "How can men
+          wear such dirty stuff? Why don't they wash it?" I expounded to him what an
+          ignorant sinner he was, and that the dirt of ages was one of the surest
+          indications of value. Wash point lace! it would be as bad as cleaning up the
+          antiquary's study.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The ladies were in full dress, which here in England means
+          always a dress which exposes the neck and shoulders. This requirement seems to
+          be universal, since ladies of all ages conform to it. It may, perhaps, account
+          for this custom, to say that the bust of an English lady is seldom otherwise
+          than fine, and develops a full outline at what we should call quite an advanced
+          period of life.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">A very dignified gentleman, dressed in black velvet, with a fine
+          head, made his way through the throng, and sat down by me, introducing himself
+          as Lord Chief Baron Pollock. He told me he had just been reading the legal part
+          of the Key to Uncle Tom's Cabin, and remarked especially on the opinion of
+          Judge Ruffin, in the case of State <em>v.</em> Mann, as having made a deep
+          impression on his mind. Of the character of the decision, considered as a legal
+          and literary document, he spoke in terms of high admiration; said that nothing
+          had ever given him so clear a view of the essential nature of slavery. We found
+          that this document had produced the same impression on the minds of several
+          others present. Mr. S. said that one or two distinguished legal gentlemen
+          mentioned it to him in similar terms. The talent and force displayed in it, as
+          well as the high spirit and scorn of dissimulation, appear to have created a
+          strong interest in its author. It always seemed to me that there was a certain
+          severe strength and grandeur about it which approached to the heroic. One or
+          two said that they were glad such a man had retired from the practice of such a
+          system of law.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">But there was scarce a moment for conversation amid the whirl
+          and eddy of so many presentations. Before the company had all assembled, the
+          room was a perfect jam of legal and literary notabilities. The dinner was
+          announced between nine and ten o'clock. We were conducted into a splendid hall,
+          where the tables were laid. Four long tables were set parallel with the length
+          of the hall, and one on a raised platform across the upper end. In the midst of
+          this sat the lord mayor and lady mayoress, on their right hand the judges, on
+          their left the American minister, with other distinguished guests. I sat by a
+          most agreeable and interesting young lady, who seemed to take pleasure in
+          enlightening me on all those matters about which a stranger would naturally be
+          inquisitive.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Directly opposite me was Mr. Dickens, whom I now beheld for the
+          first time, and was surprised to see looking so young. Mr. Justice Talfourd,
+          known as the author of Ion, was also there with his lady. She had a beautiful
+          antique cast of head.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The lord mayor was simply dressed in black, without any other
+          adornment than a massive gold chain.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I asked the lady if he had not robes of state. She replied, yes;
+          but they were very heavy and cumbersome, and that he never wore them when he
+          could, with any propriety, avoid it. It seems to me that this matter of outward
+          parade and state is gradually losing its hold even here in England. As society
+          becomes enlightened, men care less and less for mere shows, and are apt to
+          neglect those outward forms which have neither beauty nor convenience on their
+          side, such as judges' wigs and lord mayors' robes.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As a general thing the company were more plainly dressed than I
+          had expected. I am really glad that there is a movement being made to carry the
+          doctrine of plain dress into our diplomatic representation. Even older nations
+          are becoming tired of mere shows; and, certainly, the representatives of a
+          republic ought not to begin to put on the finery which monarchies are beginning
+          to cast off.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The present lord mayor is a member of the House of
+          Commons&mdash;a most liberal-minded man; very simple, but pleasing in his
+          appearance and address; one who seems to think more of essentials than of
+          show.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">He is a dissenter, being a member of Rev. Mr. Binney's church, a
+          man warmly interested in the promotion of Sabbath schools, and every worthy and
+          benevolent object.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The ceremonies of the dinner were long and weary, and, I
+          thought, seemed to be more fully entered into by a flourishing official, who
+          stood at the mayor's back, than by any other person present.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The business of toast-drinking is reduced to the nicest system.
+          A regular official, called a toast master, stood behind the lord mayor with a
+          paper, from which he read the toasts in their order. Every one, according to
+          his several rank, pretensions, and station, must be toasted in his gradation;
+          and every person toasted must have his name announced by the
+          official,&mdash;the larger dignitaries being proposed alone in their glory,
+          while the smaller fry are read out by the dozen,&mdash;and to each toast
+          somebody must get up and make a speech.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">First, after the usual loyal toasts, the lord mayor proposed the
+          health of the American minister, expressing himself in the warmest terms of
+          friendship towards our country; to which Mr. Ingersoll responded very
+          handsomely. Among the speakers I was particularly pleased with Lord Chief Baron
+          Pollock, who, in the absence of Lord Chief Justice Campbell, was toasted as the
+          highest representative of the legal profession. He spoke with great dignity,
+          simplicity, and courtesy, taking occasion to pay very flattering compliments to
+          the American legal profession, speaking particularly of Judge Story. The
+          compliment gave me great pleasure, because it seemed a just and noble-minded
+          appreciation, and not a mere civil fiction. We are always better pleased with
+          appreciation than flattery, though perhaps he strained a point when he said,
+          "Our brethren on the other side of the Atlantic, with whom we are now
+          exchanging legal authorities, I fear largely surpass us in the production of
+          philosophic and comprehensive forms."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Speaking of the two countries he said, "God forbid that, with a
+          common language, with common laws which we are materially improving for the
+          benefit of mankind, with one common literature, with one common religion, and
+          above all with one common love of liberty, God forbid that any feeling should
+          arise between the two countries but the desire to carry through the world these
+          advantages."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. Justice Talfourd proposed the literature of our two
+          countries, under the head of "Anglo-Saxon Literature." He made allusion to the
+          author of Uncle Tom's Cabin and Mr. Dickens, speaking of both as having
+          employed fiction as a means of awakening the attention of the respective
+          countries to the condition of the oppressed and suffering classes. Mr. Talfourd
+          appears to be in the prime of life, of a robust and somewhat florid habit. He
+          is universally beloved for his nobleness of soul and generous interest in all
+          that tends to promote the welfare of humanity, no less than for his classical
+          and scholarly attainments.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. Dickens replied to this toast in a graceful and playful
+          strain. In the former part of the evening, in reply to a toast on the chancery
+          department, Vice-Chancellor Wood, who spoke in the absence of the lord
+          chancellor, made a sort of defence of the Court of Chancery, not distinctly
+          alluding to Bleak House, but evidently not without reference to it. The amount
+          of what he said was, that the court had received a great many more hard
+          opinions than it merited; that they had been parsimoniously obliged to perform
+          a great amount of business by a very inadequate number of judges; but that more
+          recently the number of judges had been increased to seven, and there was reason
+          to hope that all business brought before it would now be performed without
+          unnecessary delay.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the conclusion of Mr. Dickens's speech he alluded playfully
+          to this item of intelligence; said he was exceedingly happy to hear it, as he
+          trusted now that a suit, in which he was greatly interested, would speedily
+          come to an end. I heard a little by conversation between Mr. Dickens and a
+          gentleman of the bar, who sat opposite me, in which the latter seemed to be
+          reiterating the same assertions, and I understood him to say, that a case not
+          extraordinarily complicated might be got through with in three months. Mr.
+          Dickens said he was very happy to hear it; but I fancied there was a little
+          shade of incredulity in his manner; however, the incident showed one thing,
+          that is, that the chancery were not insensible to the representations of
+          Dickens; but the whole tone of the thing was quite good-natured and agreeable.
+          In this respect, I must say I think the English are quite remarkable. Every
+          thing here meets the very freest handling; nothing is too sacred to be publicly
+          shown up; but those who are exhibited appear to have too much good sense to
+          recognize the force of the picture by getting angry. Mr. Dickens has gone on
+          unmercifully exposing all sorts of weak places in the English fabric, public
+          and private, yet nobody cries out upon him as the slanderer of his country. He
+          serves up Lord Dedlocks to his heart's content, yet none of the nobility make
+          wry faces about it; nobody is in a hurry to proclaim that he has recognized the
+          picture, by getting into a passion at it. The contrast between the people of
+          England and America, in this respect, is rather unfavorable to us, because they
+          are by profession conservative, and we by profession radical.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">For us to be annoyed when any of our institutions are commented
+          upon, is in the highest degree absurd; it would do well enough for Naples, but
+          it does not do for America.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were some curious old customs observed at this dinner
+          which interested me as peculiar. About the middle of the feast, the official
+          who performed all the announcing made the declaration that the lord mayor and
+          lady mayoress would pledge the guests in a loving cup. They then rose, and the
+          official presented them with a massive gold cup, full of wine, in which they
+          pledged the guests. It then passed down the table, and the guests rose, two and
+          two, each tasting and presenting to the other. My fair informant told me that
+          this was a custom which had come down from the most ancient time.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The banquet was enlivened at intervals by songs from
+          professional singers, hired for the occasion. After the banquet was over,
+          massive gold basins, filled with rose water, slid along down the table, into
+          which the guests dipped their napkins&mdash;an improvement, I suppose, on the
+          doctrine of finger glasses, or perhaps the primeval form of the custom.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We rose from table between eleven and twelve o'clock&mdash;that
+          is, we ladies&mdash;and went into the drawing room, where I was presented to
+          Mrs. Dickens and several other ladies. Mrs. Dickens is a good specimen of a
+          truly English woman; tall, large, and well developed, with fine, healthy color,
+          and an air of frankness, cheerfulness, and reliability. A friend whispered to
+          me that she was as observing, and fond of humor, as her husband.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After a while the gentlemen came back to the drawing room, and I
+          had a few moments of very pleasant, friendly conversation with Mr. Dickens.
+          They are both people that one could not know a little of without desiring to
+          know more.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I had some conversation with the lady mayoress. She said she had
+          been invited to meet me at Stafford House on Saturday, but should be unable to
+          attend, as she had called a meeting on the same day of the city ladies, for
+          considering the condition of milliners and dressmakers, and to form a society
+          for their relief to act in conjunction with that of the west end.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After a little we began to talk of separating; the lord mayor to
+          take his seat in the House of Commons, and the rest of the party to any other
+          engagement that might be upon their list.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Come, let us go to the House of Commons," said one of my
+          friends, "and make a night of it." "With all my heart," replied I, "if I only
+          had another body to go into to-morrow."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">What a convenience in sight-seeing it would be if one could have
+          a relay of bodies, as of clothes, and go from one into the other. But we, not
+          used to the London style of turning night into day, are full weary already; so,
+          good night.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_31" name="toc_31"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XIV</h2>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">Rose Cottage, Walworth, London</span>, May
+          2.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My
+          Dear</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This morning Mrs. Follen called, and we had quite a long chat
+          together. We are separated by the whole city. She lives at West End, while I am
+          down here in Walworth, which is one of the postscripts of London; for London
+          has as many postscripts as a lady's letter&mdash;little suburban villages which
+          have been overtaken by the growth, of the city, and embraced in its arms. I
+          like them a great deal better than the city, for my part.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Here now, for instance, at Walworth, I can look out at a window
+          and see a nice green meadow with sheep and lambs feeding in it, which is some
+          relief in this smutty old place. London is as smutty as Pittsburg or Wheeling.
+          It takes a good hour's steady riding to get from here to West End; so that my
+          American friends, of the newspapers, who are afraid I shall be corrupted by
+          aristocratic associations, will see that I am at safe distance.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This evening we are appointed to dine with the Earl of Carlisle.
+          There is to be no company but his own family circle, for he, with great
+          consideration, said in his note that he thought a little quiet would be the
+          best thing he could offer. Lord Carlisle is a great friend to America; and so
+          is his sister, the Duchess of Sutherland. He is the only English traveller who
+          ever wrote notes on our country in a real spirit of appreciation. While the
+          Halls, and Trollopes, and all the rest could see nothing but our breaking eggs
+          on the wrong end, or such matters, he discerned and interpreted those points
+          wherein lies the real strength of our growing country. His notes on America
+          were not very extended, being only sketches delivered as a lyceum lecture some
+          years after his return. It was the spirit and quality, rather than quantity, of
+          the thing that was noticeable.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I observe that American newspapers are sneering about his
+          preface to Uncle Tom's Cabin; but they ought at least to remember that his
+          sentiments with regard to slavery are no sudden freak. In the first place, he
+          comes of a family that has always been on the side of liberal and progressive
+          principles. He himself has been a leader of reforms on the popular side. It was
+          a temporary defeat, when run as an anti-corn-law candidate, which gave him
+          leisure to travel in America. Afterwards he had the satisfaction to be
+          triumphantly returned for that district, and to see the measure he had
+          advocated fully successful.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">While Lord Carlisle was in America he never disguised those
+          antislavery sentiments which formed a part of his political and religious creed
+          as an Englishman, and as the heir of a house always true to progress. Many
+          cultivated English people have shrunk from acknowledging abolitionists in
+          Boston, where the ostracism of fashion and wealth has been enforced against
+          them. Lord Carlisle, though moving in the highest circle, honestly and openly
+          expressed his respect for them on all occasions. He attended the Boston
+          antislavery fair, which at that time was quite a decided step. Nor did he even
+          in any part of our country disguise his convictions. There is, therefore,
+          propriety and consistency in the course he has taken now.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It would seem that a warm interest in questions of a public
+          nature has always distinguished the ladies of this family. The Duchess of
+          Sutherland's mother is daughter of the celebrated Duchess of Devonshire, who,
+          in her day, employed on the liberal side in politics all the power of genius,
+          wit, beauty, and rank. It was to the electioneering talents of herself and her
+          sister, the Lady Duncannon, that Fox, at one crisis, owed his election. We
+          Americans should remember that it was this party who advocated our cause during
+          our revolutionary struggle. Fox and his associates pleaded for us with much the
+          same arguments, and with the same earnestness and warmth, that American
+          abolitionists now plead for the slaves. They stood against all the power of the
+          king and cabinet, as the abolitionists in America in 1850 stood against
+          president and cabinet.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Duchess of Devonshire was a woman of real noble impulses and
+          generous emotions, and had a true sympathy for what is free and heroic.
+          Coleridge has some fine lines addressed to her,&mdash;called forth by a sonnet
+          which she composed, while in Switzerland, on William Tell's Chapel,&mdash;which
+          begin,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"O lady, nursed in pomp and pleasure,</p>
+            <p class="l">Where learn'dst thou that heroic measure?"</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The Duchess of Sutherland, in our times, has been known to
+          be no less warmly interested on the liberal side. So great was her influence
+          held to be, that upon a certain occasion when a tory cabinet was to be formed,
+          a distinguished minister is reported to have said to the queen that he could
+          not hope to succeed in his administration while such a decided influence as
+          that of the Duchess of Sutherland stood at the head of her majesty's household.
+          The queen's spirited refusal to surrender her favorite attendant attracted, at
+          the time, universal admiration.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Like her brother Lord Carlisle, the Duchess of Sutherland has
+          always professed those sentiments with regard to slavery which are the glory of
+          the English nation, and which are held with more particular zeal by those
+          families who are favorable to the progress of liberal ideas.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At about seven o'clock we took our carriage to go to the Earl of
+          Carlisle's, the dinner hour being here somewhere between eight and nine. As we
+          rode on through the usual steady drizzling rain, from street to street and
+          square to square, crossing Waterloo Bridge, with its avenue of lamps faintly
+          visible in the seethy mist, plunging through the heart of the city, we began to
+          realize something of the immense extent of London.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Altogether the most striking objects that you pass, as you ride
+          in the evening thus, are the gin shops, flaming and flaring from the most
+          conspicuous positions, with plate-glass windows and dazzling lights, thronged
+          with men, and women, and children, drinking destruction. Mothers go there with
+          babies in their arms, and take what turns the mother's milk to poison. Husbands
+          go there, and spend the money that their children want for bread, and
+          multitudes of boys and girls of the age of my own. In Paris and other European
+          cities, at least the great fisher of souls baits with something attractive, but
+          in these gin shops men bite at the bare, barbed hook. There are no garlands, no
+          dancing, no music, no theatricals, no pretence of social exhilaration, nothing
+          but hogsheads of spirits, and people going in to drink. The number of them that
+          I passed seemed to me absolutely appalling.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After long driving we found ourselves coming into the precincts
+          of the West End, and began to feel an indefinite sense that we were approaching
+          something very grand, though I cannot say that we saw much but heavy,
+          smoky-walled buildings, washed by the rain. At length we stopped in Grosvenor
+          Place, and alighted.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were shown into an anteroom adjoining the entrance hall, and
+          from that into an adjacent apartment, where we met Lord Carlisle. The room had
+          a pleasant, social air, warmed and enlivened by the blaze of a coal fire and
+          wax candles.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We had never, any of us, met Lord Carlisle before; but the
+          considerateness and cordiality of our reception obviated whatever embarrassment
+          there might have been in this circumstance. In a few moments after we were all
+          seated the servant announced the Duchess of Sutherland, and Lord Carlisle
+          presented me. She is tall and stately, with a decided fulness of outline, and a
+          most noble bearing. Her fair complexion, blond hair, and full lips speak of
+          Saxon blood. In her early youth she might have been a Rowena. I thought of the
+          lines of Wordsworth:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"A perfect woman, nobly planned,</p>
+            <p class="l">To warn, to comfort, to command."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Her manners have a peculiar warmth and cordiality. One sees
+          people now and then who seem to <em>radiate</em> kindness and vitality, and to
+          have a faculty of inspiring perfect confidence in a moment. There are no airs
+          of grandeur, no patronizing ways; but a genuine sincerity and kindliness that
+          seem to come from a deep fountain within.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The engraving by Winterhalter, which has been somewhat familiar
+          in America, is as just a representation of her air and bearing as could be
+          given.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After this we were presented to the various members of the
+          Howard family, which is a very numerous one. Among them were Lady Dover, Lady
+          Lascelles, and Lady Labouch&egrave;re, sisters of the duchess. The Earl of
+          Burlington, who is the heir of the Duke of Devonshire, was also present. The
+          Duke of Devonshire is the uncle of Lord Carlisle.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The only person present not of the family connection was my
+          quondam correspondent in America, Arthur Helps. Somehow or other I had formed
+          the impression from his writings that he was a venerable sage of very advanced
+          years, who contemplated life as an aged hermit, from the door of his cell.
+          Conceive my surprise to find a genial young gentleman of about twenty-five, who
+          looked as if he might enjoy a joke as well as another man.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At dinner I found myself between him and Lord Carlisle, and
+          perceiving, perhaps, that the nature of my reflections was of rather an amusing
+          order, he asked me confidentially if I did not like fun, to which I assented
+          with fervor. I like that little homely word <em>fun</em>, though I understand
+          the dictionary says what it represents is vulgar; but I think it has a good,
+          hearty, Saxon sound, and I like Saxon, better than Latin or French either.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When the servant offered me wine Lord Carlisle asked me if our
+          party were all <em>teetotallers</em>, and I said yes; that in America all
+          clergymen were teetotallers, of course.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After the ladies left the table the conversation turned on the
+          Maine law, which seems to be considered over here as a phenomenon, in
+          legislation, and many of the gentlemen, present inquired about it with great
+          curiosity.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When we went into the drawing room I was presented to the
+          venerable Countess of Carlisle, the earl's mother; a lady universally beloved
+          and revered, not less for superior traits of mind than for great loveliness and
+          benevolence of character. She received us with the utmost kindness; kindness
+          evidently genuine and real.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The walls of the drawing room were beautifully adorned with
+          works of art by the best masters. There was a Rembrandt hanging over the
+          fireplace, which showed finely by the evening light. It was simply the portrait
+          of a man with a broad, Flemish hat. There were one or two pictures, also, by
+          Cuyp. I should think he must have studied in America, so perfectly does he
+          represent the golden, hazy atmosphere of our Indian summer.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One of the ladies showed me a snuff box on which was a picture
+          of Lady Carlisle's mother, the celebrated Duchess of Devonshire, taken when she
+          was quite a little girl; a round, happy face, showing great vivacity and
+          genius. On another box was an exquisitely beautiful miniature of a relative of
+          the family.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After the gentlemen rejoined us came in the Duke and Duchess of
+          Argyle, and Lord and Lady Blantyre. These ladies are the daughters of the
+          Duchess of Sutherland. The Duchess of Argyle is of a slight and fairy-like
+          figure, with flaxen hair and blue eyes, answering well enough to the
+          description of Annot Lyle, in the Legend of Montrose. Lady Blantyre was
+          somewhat taller, of fuller figure, with very brilliant bloom. Lord Blantyre is
+          of the Stuart blood, a tall and slender young man, with very graceful
+          manners.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to the Duke of Argyle, we found that the picture drawn of him
+          by his countrymen in Scotland was every way correct. Though slight of figure,
+          with fair complexion and blue eyes, his whole appearance is indicative of
+          energy and vivacity. His talents and efficiency have made him a member of the
+          British cabinet at a much earlier age than is usual; and he has distinguished
+          himself not only in political life, but as a writer, having given to the world
+          a work on Presbyterianism, embracing an analysis of the ecclesiastical history
+          of Scotland since the reformation, which is spoken of as written with great
+          ability, in a most candid and liberal spirit.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The company soon formed themselves into little groups in
+          different parts of the room. The Duchess of Sutherland, Lord Carlisle, and the
+          Duke and Duchess of Argyle formed a circle, and turned the conversation upon
+          American topics. The Duke of Argyle made many inquiries about our distinguished
+          men; particularly of Emerson, Longfellow, and Hawthorne; also of Prescott, who
+          appears to be a general favorite here. I felt at the moment that we never value
+          our literary men so much as when placed in a circle of intelligent foreigners;
+          it is particularly so with Americans, because we have nothing but our men and
+          women to glory in&mdash;no court, no nobles, no castles, no cathedrals; except
+          we produce distinguished specimens of humanity, we are nothing.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The quietness of this evening circle, the charm of its kind
+          hospitality, the evident air of sincerity and good will which pervaded every
+          thing, made the evening pass most delightfully to me. I had never felt myself
+          more at home even among the Quakers. Such a visit is a true rest and
+          refreshment, a thousand times better than the most brilliant and glittering
+          entertainment.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At eleven o'clock, however, the carriage called, for our evening
+          was drawing to its close; that of our friends, I suppose, was but just
+          commencing, as London's liveliest hours are by gaslight, but we cannot learn
+          the art of turning night into day.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_32" name="toc_32"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XV</h2>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right">May 4.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          S.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This morning I felt too tired to go out any where; but Mr. and
+          Mrs. Binney persuaded me to go just a little while in to the meeting of the
+          Bible Society, for you must know that this is anniversary week, and so, besides
+          the usual rush, and roar, and whirl of London, there is the confluence of all
+          the religious forces in Exeter Hall. I told Mrs. B. that I was worn out, and
+          did not think I could sit through a single speech; but she tempted me by a
+          promise that I should withdraw at any moment. We had a nice little snug gallery
+          near one of the doors, where I could see all over the house, and make a quick
+          retreat in case of need.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In one point English ladies certainly do carry practical
+          industry farther than I ever saw it in America. Every body knows that an
+          anniversary meeting is something of a siege, and I observed many good ladies
+          below had made regular provision therefor, by bringing knitting work, sewing,
+          crochet, or embroidery. I thought it was an improvement, and mean to recommend
+          it when I get home. I am sure many of our Marthas in America will be very
+          grateful for the custom.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Earl of Shaftesbury was in the chair, and I saw him now for
+          the first time. He is quite a tall man, of slender figure, with a long and
+          narrow face, dark hazel eyes, and very thick, auburn hair. His bearing was
+          dignified and appropriate to his position. People here are somewhat amused by
+          the vivacity with which American papers are exhorting Lord Shaftesbury to look
+          into the factory system, and to explore the collieries, and in general to take
+          care of the suffering lower classes, as if he had been doing any thing else for
+          these twenty years past. To people who know how he has worked against wind and
+          tide, in the face of opposition and obloquy, and how all the dreadful
+          statistics that they quote against him were brought out expressly by inquiries
+          set on foot and prosecuted by him, and how these same statistics have been by
+          him reiterated in the ears of successive houses of Parliament till all these
+          abuses have been reformed, as far as the most stringent and minute legislation
+          can reform, them,&mdash;it is quite amusing to hear him exhorted to consider
+          the situation of the working classes. One reason for this, perhaps, is that
+          provoking facility in changing names which is incident to the English peerage.
+          During the time that most of the researches and speeches on the factory system
+          and collieries were made, the Earl of Shaftesbury was in the House of Commons,
+          with the title of Lord Ashley, and it was not till the death of his father that
+          he entered the House of Peers as Lord Shaftesbury. The contrast which a very
+          staid religious paper in America has drawn between Lord Ashley and Lord
+          Shaftesbury does not strike people over here as remarkably apposite.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the course of the speeches on this occasion, frequent and
+          feeling allusions were made to the condition of three millions of people in
+          America who are prevented by legislative enactments from reading for themselves
+          the word of life. I know it is not pleasant to our ministers upon the stage to
+          hear such things; but is the whole moral sense of the world to hush its voice,
+          the whole missionary spirit of Christianity to be restrained, because it is
+          disagreeable for us to be reminded of our national sins? At least, let the
+          moral atmosphere of the world be kept pure, though it should be too stimulating
+          for our diseased lungs. If oral instruction will do for three million slaves in
+          America, it will do equally well in Austria, Italy, and Spain, and the powers
+          that be, there, are just of the opinion that they are in America&mdash;that it
+          is dangerous to have the people read the Bible for themselves. Thoughts of this
+          kind were very ably set forth in some of the speeches. On the stage I noticed
+          Rev. Samuel R. Ward, from Toronto in Canada, a full blooded African of fine
+          personal presence. He was received and treated with much cordiality by the
+          ministerial brethren who surrounded him. I was sorry that I could not stay
+          through the speeches, for they were quite interesting. C. thought they were the
+          best he ever heard at an anniversary. I was obliged to leave after a little.
+          Mr. Sherman very kindly came for us in his carriage, and took us a little ride
+          into the country.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mrs. B. says that to-morrow morning we shall go out to see the
+          Dulwich Gallery, a fine collection of paintings by the old masters. Now, I
+          confess unto you that I have great suspicions of these old masters. Why, I wish
+          to know, should none but <em>old</em> masters be thought any thing of? Is not
+          nature ever springing, ever new? Is it not fair to conclude that all the
+          mechanical assistants of painting are improved with the advance of society, as
+          much as of all arts? May not the magical tints, which are said to be a secret
+          with the old masters, be the effect of time in part? or may not modern artists
+          have their secrets, as well, for future ages to study and admire? Then,
+          besides, how are we to know that our admiration of old masters is genuine,
+          since we can bring our taste to any thing, if we only know we must, and try
+          long enough? People never like olives the first time they eat them. In fact, I
+          must confess, I have some partialities towards young masters, and a sort of
+          suspicion that we are passing over better paintings at our side, to get at
+          those which, though the best of their day, are not so good as the best of ours.
+          I certainly do not worship the old English poets. With the exception of Milton
+          and Shakspeare, there is more poetry in the works of the writers of the last
+          fifty years than in all the rest together. Well, these are my surmises for the
+          present; but one thing I am determined&mdash;as my admiration is nothing to any
+          body but myself, I will keep some likes and dislikes of my own, and will not
+          get up any raptures that do not arise of themselves. I am entirely willing to
+          be conquered by any picture that has the power. I will be a non-resistant, but
+          that is all.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">May 5. Well, we saw the Dulwich Gallery; five rooms filled with
+          old masters, Murillos, Claudes, Rubens, Salvator Rosas, Titians, Cuyps,
+          Vandykes, and all the rest of them; probably not the best specimens of any one
+          of them, but good enough to begin with. C. and I took different courses. I said
+          to him, "Now choose nine pictures simply by your eye, and see how far its
+          untaught guidance will bring you within the canons of criticism." When he had
+          gone through all the rooms and marked his pictures, we found he had selected
+          two by Rubens, two by Vandyke, one by Salvator Rosa, three by Murillo, and one
+          by Titian. Pretty successful that, was it not, for a first essay? We then took
+          the catalogue, and selected all the pictures of each artist one after another,
+          in order to get an idea of the style of each. I had a great curiosity to see
+          Claude Lorraine's, remembering the poetical things that had been said and sung
+          of him. I thought I would see if I could distinguish them by my eye without
+          looking at the catalogue I found I could do so. I knew them by a certain misty
+          quality in the atmosphere. I was disappointed in them, very much. Certainly,
+          they were good paintings; I had nothing to object to them, but I profanely
+          thought I had seen pictures by modern landscape painters as far excelling them
+          as a brilliant morning excels a cool, gray day. Very likely the fault was all
+          in me, but I could not help it; so I tried the Murillos. There was a Virgin and
+          Child, with clouds around them. The virgin was a very pretty girl, such as you
+          may see by the dozen in any boarding school, and the child was a pretty child.
+          Call it the young mother and son, and it is a very pretty picture; but call it
+          Mary and the infant Jesus, and it is an utter failure. Not such was the Jewish
+          princess, the inspired poetess and priestess, the chosen of God among all
+          women.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It seems to me that painting is poetry expressing itself by
+          lines and colors instead of words; therefore there are two things to be
+          considered in every picture: first, the quality of the idea expressed, and
+          second, the quality of the language in which it is expressed. Now, with regard
+          to the first, I hold that every person of cultivated taste is as good a judge
+          of painting as of poetry. The second, which relates to the mode of expressing
+          the conception, including drawing and coloring, with all their secrets,
+          requires more study, and here our untaught perceptions must sometimes yield to
+          the judgment of artists. My first question, then, when I look at the work of an
+          artist, is, What sort of a mind has this man? What has he to say? And then I
+          consider, How does he say it?</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Now, with regard to Murillo, it appeared to me that he was a man
+          of rather a mediocre mind, with nothing very high or deep to say, but that he
+          was gifted with an exquisite faculty of expressing what he did say; and his
+          paintings seem to me to bear an analogy to Pope's poetry, wherein the power of
+          expression is wrought to the highest point, but without freshness or ideality
+          in the conception. As Pope could reproduce in most exquisite wording the
+          fervent ideas of Eloisa, without the power to originate such, so Murillo
+          reproduced the current and floating religious ideas of his times, with most
+          exquisite perfection of art and color, but without ideality or vitality. The
+          pictures of his which please me most are his beggar boys and flower girls,
+          where he abandons the region of ideality, and simply reproduces nature. His art
+          and coloring give an exquisite grace to such sketches.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to Vandyke, though evidently a fine painter, he is one whose
+          mind does not move me. He adds nothing to my stock of thoughts&mdash;awakens no
+          emotion. I know it is a fine picture, just as I have sometimes been conscious
+          in church that I was hearing a fine sermon, which somehow had not the slightest
+          effect upon me.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Rubens, on the contrary, whose pictures I detested with all the
+          energy of my soul, I knew and felt all the time, by the very pain he gave me,
+          to be a real living artist. There was a Venus and Cupid there, as fat and as
+          coarse as they could be, but so freely drawn, and so masterly in their
+          expression and handling, that one must feel that they were by an artist, who
+          could just as easily have painted them any other way if it had suited his
+          sovereign pleasure, and therefore we are the more vexed with him. When your
+          taste is crossed by a clever person, it always vexes you more than when it is
+          done by a stupid one, because it is done with such power that there is less
+          hope for you.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were a number of pictures of Cuyp there, which satisfied
+          my thirst for coloring, and appeared to me as I expected the Claudes would have
+          done. Generally speaking, his objects are few in number and commonplace in
+          their character&mdash;a bit of land and water, a few cattle and figures, in no
+          way remarkable; but then he floods the whole with that dreamy, misty sunlight,
+          such as fills the arches of our forests in the days of autumn. As I looked at
+          them I fancied I could hear nuts dropping from the trees among the dry leaves,
+          and see the goldenrods and purple asters, and hear the click of the squirrel as
+          he whips up the tree to his nest. For this one attribute of golden, dreamy
+          haziness, I like Cuyp. His power in shedding it over very simple objects
+          reminds me of some of the short poems of Longfellow, when things in themselves
+          most prosaic are flooded with a kind of poetic light from the inner soul. These
+          are merely first ideas and impressions. Of course I do not make up my mind
+          about any artist from what I have seen here. We must not expect a painter to
+          put his talent into every picture, more than a poet into every verse that he
+          writes. Like other men, he is sometimes brilliant and inspired, and at others
+          dull and heavy. In general, however, I have this to say, that there is some
+          kind of fascination about these old masters which I feel very sensibly. But
+          yet, I am sorry to add that there is very little of what I consider the highest
+          mission of art in the specimens I have thus far seen; nothing which speaks to
+          the deepest and the highest; which would inspire a generous ardor, or a solemn
+          religious trust. Vainly I seek for something divine, and ask of art to bring me
+          nearer to the source of all beauty and perfection. I find wealth of coloring,
+          freedom of design, and capability of expression wasting themselves merely in
+          portraying trivial sensualities and commonplace ideas. So much for the first
+          essay.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening we went to dine with our old friends of the
+          Dingle, Mr. and Mrs. Edward Cropper, who are now spending a little time in
+          London. We were delighted to meet them once more, and to hear from our
+          Liverpool friends. Mrs. Cropper's father, Lord Denman, has returned to England,
+          though with no sensible improvement in his health.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At dinner we were introduced to Lord and Lady Hatherton. Lord
+          Hatherton is a member of the whig party, and has been chief secretary for
+          Ireland. Lady Hatherton is a person of great cultivation and intelligence,
+          warmly interested in all the progressive movements of the day; and I gained
+          much information in her society. There were also present Sir Charles and Lady
+          Trevelyan; the former holds some appointment in the navy. Lady Trevelyan is a
+          sister of Macaulay.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening quite a circle came in; among others, Lady Emma
+          Campbell, sister of the Duke of Argyle; the daughters of the Archbishop of
+          Canterbury, who very kindly invited me to visit them, at Lambeth; and Mr.
+          Arthur Helps, besides many others whose names I need not mention.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">People here continually apologize for the weather, which, to say
+          the least, has been rather ungracious since we have been here; as if one ever
+          expected to find any thing but smoke, and darkness, and fog in London. The
+          authentic air with which they lament the existence of these things <em>at
+          present</em> would almost persuade one that <em>in general</em> London was a
+          very clear, bright place. I, however, assured them that, having heard from my
+          childhood of the smoke of London, its dimness and darkness, I found things much
+          better than I had expected.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">They talk here of spirit rappings and table turnings, I find, as
+          in America. Many rumors are afloat which seem to have no other effect than
+          merely to enliven the chitchat of an evening circle. I passed a very pleasant
+          evening, and left about ten o'clock. The gentleman who was handing me down
+          stairs said, "I suppose you are going to one or two other places to-night." The
+          idea struck me as so preposterous that I could not help an exclamation of
+          surprise.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">May 6. A good many calls this morning. Among others came Miss
+          Greenfield, the (so called) Black Swan. She appears to be a gentle, amiable,
+          and interesting young person. She was born the slave of a kind mistress, who
+          gave her every thing but education, and, dying, left her free with a little
+          property. The property she lost by some legal quibble, but had, like others of
+          her race, a passion for music, and could sing and play by ear. A young lady,
+          discovering her taste, gave her a few lessons. She has a most astonishing
+          voice. C. sat down to the piano and played, while she sung. Her voice runs
+          through a compass of three octaves and a fourth. This is four notes more than
+          Malibran's. She sings a most magnificent tenor, with such a breadth and volume
+          of sound that, with your back turned, you could not imagine it to be a woman.
+          While she was there, Mrs. S.C. Hall, of the Irish Sketches, was announced. She
+          is a tall, well-proportioned woman, with a fine color, dark-brown hair, and a
+          cheerful, cordial manner. She brought with her her only daughter, a young girl
+          about fifteen. I told her of Miss Greenfield, and, she took great interest in
+          her, and requested her to sing something for her. C. played the accompaniment,
+          and she sung Old Folks at Home, first in a soprano voice, and then in a tenor
+          or baritone. Mrs. Hall was amazed and delighted, and entered at once into her
+          cause. She said that she would call with me and present her to Sir George
+          Smart, who is at the head of the queen's musical establishment, and, of course,
+          the acknowledged leader of London musical judgment.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mrs. Hall very kindly told me that she had called to invite me
+          to seek a retreat with her in her charming little country house near London. I
+          do not mean that <em>she</em> called it a charming little retreat, but that
+          every one who speaks of it gives it that character. She told me that I should
+          there have positive and perfect quiet; and what could attract me more than
+          that? She said, moreover, that there they had a great many nightingales. Ah,
+          this "bower of roses by Bendemeer's stream," could I only go there! but I am
+          tied to London by a hundred engagements. I cannot do it. Nevertheless, I have
+          promised that I will go and spend some time yet, when Mr. S. leaves London.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the course of the day I had a note from Mrs. Hall, saying
+          that, as Sir George Smart was about leaving town, she had not waited for me,
+          but had taken Miss Greenfield to him herself. She writes that he was really
+          astonished and charmed at the wonderful weight, compass, and power of her
+          voice. He was also as well pleased with the mind in her singing, and her
+          quickness in doing and catching all that he told her. Should she have a public
+          opportunity to perform, he offered to hear her rehearse beforehand. Mrs. Hall
+          says this is a great deal for him, whose hours are all marked with gold.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening the house was opened in a general way for
+          callers, who were coming and going all the evening. I think there must have
+          been over two hundred people&mdash;among them Martin Farquhar Tupper, a little
+          man, with fresh, rosy complexion, and cheery, joyous manners; and Mary Howitt,
+          just such a cheerful, sensible, fireside companion as we find her in her
+          books,&mdash;winning love and trust the very first few moments of the
+          interview. The general topic of remark on meeting me seems to be, that I am not
+          so bad looking as they were afraid I was; and I do assure you that, when I have
+          seen the things that are put up in the shop windows here with my name under
+          them, I have been in wondering admiration at the boundless loving-kindness of
+          my English and Scottish friends, in keeping up such a warm heart for such a
+          Gorgon. I should think that the Sphinx in the London Museum might have sat for
+          most of them. I am going to make a collection of these portraits to bring home
+          to you. There is a great variety of them, and they will be useful, like the
+          Irishman's guideboard, which showed where the road did not go.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before the evening was through I was talked out and worn
+          out&mdash;there was hardly a chip of me left. To-morrow at eleven o'clock comes
+          the meeting at Stafford House. What it will amount to I do not know; but I take
+          no thought for the morrow.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_33" name="toc_33"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XVI</h2>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">May</span> 8.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          C.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In fulfilment of my agreement, I will tell you, as nearly as I
+          can remember, all the details of the meeting at Stafford House.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">At about eleven o'clock we drove under the arched carriage way
+          of a mansion, externally, not very showy in appearance. It stands on the
+          borders of St. James's Park, opposite to Buckingham Palace, with a street on
+          the north side, and beautiful gardens on the south, while the park is extended
+          on the west.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We were received at the door by two stately Highlanders in full
+          costume; and what seemed to me an innumerable multitude of servants in livery,
+          with powdered hair, repeated our names through the long corridors, from one to
+          another.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I have only a confused idea of passing from passage to passage,
+          and from hall to hall, till finally we were introduced into a large drawing
+          room. No person was present, and I was at full leisure to survey an apartment
+          whose arrangements more perfectly suited my eye and taste than any I had ever
+          seen before. There was not any particular splendor of furniture, or dazzling
+          display of upholstery, but an artistic, poetic air, resulting from the
+          arrangement of colors, and the disposition of the works of <em>virtu</em> with
+          which the room abounded. The great fault in many splendid rooms, is, that they
+          are arranged without any eye to unity of impression. The things in them may be
+          all fine in their way, but there is no harmony of result.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">People do not often consider that there may be a general
+          sentiment to be expressed in the arrangement of a room, as well as in the
+          composition of a picture. It is this leading idea which corresponds to what
+          painters call the ground tone, or harmonizing tint, of a picture. The presence
+          of this often renders a very simple room extremely fascinating, and the absence
+          of it makes the most splendid combinations of furniture powerless to
+          please.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The walls were covered with green damask, laid on flat, and
+          confined in its place by narrow gilt bands, which bordered it around the
+          margin. The chairs, ottomans, and sofas were of white woodwork, varnished and
+          gilded, covered with the same.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The carpet was of a green ground, bedropped with a small yellow
+          leaf; and in each window a circular, standing basket contained a whole bank of
+          primroses, growing as if in their native soil, their pale yellow blossoms and
+          green leaves harmonizing admirably with the general tone of coloring.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Through the fall of the lace curtains I could see out into the
+          beautiful grounds, whose clumps of blossoming white lilacs, and velvet grass,
+          seemed so in harmony with the green interior of the room, that one would think
+          they had been arranged as a continuation of the idea.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One of the first individual objects which attracted my attention
+          was, over the mantel-piece, a large, splendid picture by Landseer, which I have
+          often seen engraved. It represents the two eldest children of the Duchess of
+          Sutherland, the Marquis of Stafford, and Lady Blantyre, at that time Lady
+          Levison Gower, in their childhood. She is represented as feeding a fawn; a
+          little poodle dog is holding up a rose to her; and her brother is lying on the
+          ground, playing with an old staghound.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I had been familiar with Landseer's engravings, but this was the
+          first of his paintings I had ever seen, and I was struck with the rich and
+          harmonious quality of the coloring. There was also a full-length marble statue
+          of the Marquis of Stafford, taken, I should think, at about seventeen years of
+          age, in full Highland costume.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When the duchess appeared, I thought she looked handsomer by
+          daylight than in the evening. She was dressed in white muslin, with a drab
+          velvet basque slashed with satin of the same color. Her hair was confined by a
+          gold and diamond net on the back part of her head.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">She received us with the same warm and simple kindness which she
+          had shown before. We were presented to the Duke of Sutherland. He is a tall,
+          slender man, with rather a thin face, light brown hair, and a mild blue eye,
+          with an air of gentleness and dignity. The delicacy of his health prevents him
+          from moving in general society, or entering into public life. He spends much of
+          his time in reading, and devising and executing schemes of practical
+          benevolence for the welfare of his numerous dependants.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I sought a little private conversation with the duchess in her
+          boudoir, in which I frankly confessed a little anxiety respecting the
+          arrangements of the day: having lived all my life in such a shady and
+          sequestered way, and being entirely ignorant of life as it exists in the sphere
+          in which she moves, such apprehensions were rather natural.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">She begged that I would make myself entirely easy, and consider
+          myself as among my own friends; that she had invited a few friends to lunch,
+          and that afterwards others would call; that there would be a short address from
+          the ladies of England read by Lord Shaftesbury, which would require no
+          answer.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I could not but be grateful for the consideration thus evinced.
+          The matter being thus adjusted, we came back to the drawing room, when the
+          party began to assemble.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The only difference, I may say, by the by, in the gathering of
+          such a company and one with us, is in the announcing of names at the door; a,
+          custom which I think a good one, saving a vast deal of the breath we always
+          expend in company, by asking "Who is that? and that?" Then, too, people can
+          fall into conversation without a formal presentation, the presumption being
+          that nobody is invited with whom, it is not proper that you should converse.
+          The functionary who performed the announcing was a fine, stalwart man, in full
+          Highland costume, the duke being the head of a Highland clan.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Among the first that entered were the members of the family, the
+          Duke and Duchess of Argyle, Lord and Lady Blantyre, the Marquis and Marchioness
+          of Stafford, and Lady Emma Campbell. Then followed Lord Shaftesbury with his
+          beautiful lady, and her father and mother, Lord and Lady Palmerston. Lord
+          Palmerston is of middle height, with a keen, dark eye, and black hair streaked
+          with gray. There is something peculiarly alert and vivacious about all his
+          movements; in short his appearance perfectly answers to what we know of him
+          from his public life. One has a strange mythological feeling about the
+          existence of people of whom one hears for many years without ever seeing them.
+          While talking with Lord Palmerston I could but remember how often I had heard
+          father and Mr. S. exulting over his foreign despatches by our home
+          fireside.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Marquis of Lansdowne now entered. He is about the middle
+          height, with gray hair, blue eyes, and a mild, quiet dignity of manner. He is
+          one of those who, as Lord Henry Pettes, took a distinguished part with Clarkson
+          and Wilberforce in the abolition of the slave trade. He has always been a most
+          munificent patron of literature and art.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were present, also, Lord John Russell, Mr. Gladstone, and
+          Lord Grenville. The latter we all thought very strikingly resembled in his
+          appearance the poet Longfellow. My making the remark introduced the subject of
+          his poetry. The Duchess of Argyle appealed to her two little boys, who stood
+          each side of her, if they remembered her reading Evangeline to them. It is a
+          gratification to me that I find by every English fireside traces of one of our
+          American poets. These two little boys of the Duchess of Argyle, and the
+          youngest son of the Duchess of Sutherland, were beautiful fair-haired children,
+          picturesquely attired in the Highland costume. There were some other charming
+          children of the family circle present. The eldest son of the Duke of Argyle
+          bears the title of the Lord of Lorn, which Scott has rendered so poetical a
+          sound to our ears.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When lunch was announced, the Duke of Sutherland gave me his
+          arm, and led me through a suite of rooms into the dining hall. Each room that
+          we passed was rich in its pictures, statues, and artistic arrangements; a
+          poetic eye and taste had evidently presided over all. The table was beautifully
+          laid, ornamented by two magnificent <em>&eacute;pergnes</em>, crystal vases
+          supported by wrought silver standards, filled with the most brilliant hothouse
+          flowers; on the edges of the vases and nestling among the flowers were silver
+          doves of the size of life. The walls of the room were hung with gorgeous
+          pictures, and directly opposite to me was a portrait of the Duchess of
+          Sutherland, by Sir Thomas Lawrence, which has figured largely in our souvenirs
+          and books of beauty. She is represented with a little child in her arms; this
+          child, now Lady Blantyre, was sitting opposite to me at table, with a charming
+          little girl of her own, of about the same apparent age. When one sees such
+          things, one almost fancies this to be a fairy palace, where the cold demons of
+          age and time have lost their power.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I was seated next to Lord Lansdowne, who conversed much with me
+          about affairs in America. It seems to me that the great men of the old world
+          regard our country thoughtfully. It is a new development of society, acting
+          every day with greater and greater power on the old world; nor is it yet
+          clearly seen what its final results will be. His observations indicated a calm,
+          clear, thoughtful mind&mdash;an accurate observer of life and history.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Meanwhile the servants moved noiselessly to and fro, taking up
+          the various articles on the table, and offering them to the guests in a
+          peculiarly quiet manner. One of the dishes brought to me was a plover's nest,
+          precisely as the plover made it, with five little blue speckled eggs in it.
+          This mode of serving plover's eggs, as I understand it, is one of the fashions
+          of-the day, and has something quite sylvan and picturesque about it; but it
+          looked so, for all the world, like a robin's nest that I used to watch out in
+          our home orchard, that I had it not in my heart to profane the sanctity of the
+          image by eating one of the eggs.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The <em>cuisine</em> of these West End regions appears to be
+          entirely under French legislation, conducted by Parisian artists, skilled in
+          all subtle and metaphysical combinations of ethereal possibilities, quite
+          inscrutable to the eye of sense. Her grace's <em>chef</em>, I have heard it
+          said elsewhere, bears the reputation of being the first artist of his class in
+          England. The profession as thus sublimated bears the same proportion to the old
+          substantial English cookery that Mozart's music does to Handel's, or Midsummer
+          Night's Dream to Paradise Lost.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This meal, called <em>lunch</em>, is with the English quite an
+          institution, being apparently a less elaborate and ceremonious dinner. Every
+          thing is placed upon the table at once, and ladies sit down without removing
+          their bonnets; it is, I imagine, the most social and family meal of the day;
+          one in which children are admitted to the table, even in the presence of
+          company. It generally takes place in the middle of the day, and the dinner,
+          which comes after it, at eight or nine in the evening, is in comparison only a
+          ceremonial proceeding.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I could not help thinking, as I looked around on so many men
+          whom I had heard of historically all my life, how very much less they bear the
+          marks of age than men who have been connected a similar length of time with the
+          movements of our country. This appearance of youthfulness and alertness has a
+          constantly deceptive influence upon one in England. I cannot realize that
+          people are as old as history states them to be. In the present company there
+          were men of sixty or seventy, whom I should have pronounced at the first glance
+          to be fifty.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Generally speaking our working minds seem to wear out their
+          bodies faster; perhaps because our climate is more stimulating; more, perhaps,
+          from the intenser stimulus of our political <em>r&eacute;gime</em>, which never
+          leaves any thing long at rest.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The tone of manners in this distinguished circle did not obtrude
+          itself upon my mind as different from that of highly-educated people in our own
+          country. It appeared simple, friendly, natural, and sincere. They talked like
+          people who thought of what they were saying, rather than how to say it. The
+          practice of thorough culture and good breeding is substantially the same
+          through the world, though smaller conventionalities may differ.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After lunch the whole party ascended to the picture gallery,
+          passing on our way the grand staircase and hall, said to be the most
+          magnificent in Europe. All that wealth could command of artistic knowledge and
+          skill has been expended here to produce a superb result. It fills the entire
+          centre of the building, extending up to the roof and surmounted by a splendid
+          dome. On three sides a gallery runs round it supported by pillars. To this
+          gallery you ascend on the fourth side by a staircase, which midway has a broad,
+          flat landing, from which stairs ascend, on the right and left, into the
+          gallery. The whole hall and staircase, carpeted with a scarlet footcloth, give
+          a broad, rich mass of coloring, throwing out finely the statuary and gilded
+          balustrades. On the landing is a marble statue of a Sibyl, by Rinaldi. The
+          walls are adorned by gorgeous frescos from Paul Veronese. What is peculiar in
+          the arrangements of this hall is, that although so extensive, it still wears an
+          air of warm homelikeness and comfort, as if it might be a delightful place to
+          lounge and enjoy life, amid the ottomans, sofas, pictures, and statuary, which
+          are disposed here and there throughout.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All this, however, I passed rapidly by as I ascended the
+          staircase, and passed onward to the picture gallery. This was a room about a
+          hundred feet long by forty wide, surmounted by a dome gorgeously finished with
+          golden palm, trees and carving. This hall is lighted in the evening by a row of
+          gaslights placed outside the ground glass of the dome; this light is
+          concentrated and thrown down by strong reflectors, communicating thus the most
+          brilliant radiance without the usual heat of gas. This gallery is peculiarly
+          rich in paintings of the Spanish school. Among them are two superb Murillos,
+          taken from convents by Marshal Soult, during the time of his career in
+          Spain.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There was a painting by Paul de la Roche of the Earl of
+          Strafford led forth to execution, engravings of which we have seen in the print
+          shops in America. It is a strong and striking picture, and has great dramatic
+          effect. But there was a painting in one corner by a Flemish artist, whose name
+          I do not now remember, representing Christ under examination before Caiaphas.
+          It was a candle-light scene, and only two faces were very distinct; the
+          downcast, calm, resolute face of Christ, in which was written a perfect
+          knowledge of his approaching doom, and the eager, perturbed vehemence of the
+          high priest, who was interrogating him. On the frame was engraved the
+          lines,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"He was wounded for our transgressions,</p>
+            <p class="l">He was bruised for our iniquities;</p>
+            <p class="l">The chastisement of our peace was upon him,</p>
+            <p class="l">And with his stripes we are healed."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">The presence of this picture here in the midst of this
+          scene was very affecting to me.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The company now began to assemble and throng the gallery, and
+          very soon the vast room was crowded. Among the throng I remember many
+          presentations, but of course must have forgotten many more. Archbishop Whately
+          was there, with Mrs. and Miss Whately; Macaulay, with two of his sisters;
+          Milman, the poet and historian; the Bishop of Oxford, Chevalier Bunsen and
+          lady, and many more.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">When all the company were together Lord Shaftesbury read a very
+          short, kind, and considerate address in behalf of the ladies of England,
+          expressive of their cordial welcome. The address will be seen in the Morning
+          Advertiser, which I send you. The company remained a while after this, walking
+          through the rooms and conversing in different groups, and I talked with
+          several. Archbishop Whately, I thought, seemed rather inclined to be jocose: he
+          seems to me like some of our American divines; a man who pays little attention
+          to forms, and does not value them. There is a kind of brusque humor in his
+          address, a downright heartiness, which reminds one of western character. If he
+          had been born in our latitude, in Kentucky or Wisconsin, the natives would have
+          called him Whately, and said he was a real steamboat on an argument. This is
+          not precisely the kind of man we look for in an archbishop. One sees traces of
+          this humor in his Historic Doubts concerning the Existence of Napoleon. I
+          conversed with some who knew him intimately, and they said that he delighted in
+          puns and odd turns of language.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I was also introduced to the Bishop of Oxford, who is a son of
+          Wilberforce. He is a short man, of very youthful appearance, with bland,
+          graceful, courteous manners. He is much admired as a speaker. I heard him
+          spoken of as one of the most popular preachers of the day.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I must not forget to say that many ladies of the society of
+          Friends were here, and one came and put on to my arm a reticule, in which, she
+          said, were carried about the very first antislavery tracts ever distributed in
+          England. At that time the subject of antislavery was as unpopular in England as
+          it can be at this day any where in the world, and I trust that a day will come
+          when the subject will be as popular in South Carolina as it is now in England.
+          People always glory in the right after they have done it.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After a while the company dispersed over the house to look at
+          the rooms. There are all sorts of parlors and reception rooms, furnished with
+          the same correct taste. Each room had its predominant color; among them blue
+          was a particular favorite.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The carpets were all of those small figures I have described,
+          the blue ones being of the same pattern with the green. The idea, I suppose, is
+          to produce a mass of color of a certain tone, and not to distract the eye with
+          the complicated pattern. Where so many objects of art and <em>virtu</em> are to
+          be exhibited, without this care in regulating and simplifying the ground tints,
+          there would be no unity in the impression. This was my philosophizing on the
+          matter, and if it is not the reason why it is done, it ought to be. It is as
+          good a theory as most theories, at any rate.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before we went away I made a little call on the Lady Constance
+          Grosvenor, and saw the future Marquis of Westminster, heir to the largest
+          estate in England. His beautiful mother is celebrated in the annals of the
+          court journal as one of the handsomest ladies in England. His little lordship
+          was presented to me in all the dignity of long, embroidered clothes, being
+          then, I believe, not quite a fortnight old, and I can assure you that he
+          demeaned himself with a gravity becoming his rank and expectations.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There is a more than common interest attached to these children
+          by one who watches the present state of the world. On the character and
+          education of the princes and nobility of this generation the future history of
+          England must greatly depend.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This Stafford House meeting, in any view of it, is a most
+          remarkable fact. Kind and gratifying as its arrangements have been to me, I am
+          far from appropriating it to myself individually, as a personal honor. I rather
+          regard it as the most public expression possible of the feelings of the women
+          of England on one of the most important questions of our day&mdash;that, of
+          individual liberty considered in its religious bearings.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The most splendid of England's palaces has this day opened its
+          doors to the slave. Its treasures of wealth and of art, its prestige of high
+          name and historic memories, have been consecrated to the acknowledgment of
+          Christianity in that form, wherein, in our day, it is most frequently
+          denied&mdash;the recognition of the brotherhood of the human family, and the
+          equal religious value of every human soul. A fair and noble hand by this
+          meeting has fixed, in the most public manner, an ineffaceable seal to the
+          beautiful sentiments of that most Christian document, the letter of the ladies
+          of Great Britain to the ladies of America. That letter and this public
+          attestation of it are now historic facts, which wait their time and the
+          judgment of advancing Christianity.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Concerning that letter I have one or two things to say. Nothing
+          can be more false than the insinuation that has been thrown out in some
+          American papers, that it was a political movement. It had its first origin in
+          the deep religious feelings of the man whose whole life has been devoted to the
+          abolition of the white-labor slavery of Great Britain; the man whose eye
+          explored the darkness of the collieries, and counted the weary steps of the
+          cotton spinners&mdash;who penetrated the dens where the insane were tortured
+          with darkness, and cold, and stripes; and threaded the loathsome alleys of
+          London, haunts of fever and cholera: this man it was, whose heart was
+          overwhelmed by the tale of American slavery, and who could find no relief from,
+          this distress except in raising some voice to the ear of Christianity. Fearful
+          of the jealousy of political interference, Lord Shaftesbury published an
+          address to the ladies of England, in which he told them that he felt himself
+          moved by an irresistible impulse to entreat them to raise their voice, in the
+          name of a common Christianity and womanhood, to their American sisters. The
+          abuse which has fallen upon him for this most Christian proceeding does not in
+          the least surprise him, because it is of the kind that has always met him in
+          every benevolent movement. When in the Parliament of England he was pleading
+          for women in the collieries who were harnessed like beasts of burden, and made
+          to draw heavy loads through miry and dark passages, and for children who were
+          taken at three years old to labor where the sun never shines, he was met with
+          determined and furious opposition and obloquy&mdash;accused of being a
+          disorganizer, and of wishing to restore the dark ages. Very similar accusations
+          have attended all his efforts for the laboring classes during the long course
+          of seventeen years, which resulted at last in the triumphant passage of the
+          factory bill.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We in America ought to remember that the gentle remonstrance of
+          the letter of the ladies of England contains, in the mildest form, the
+          sentiments of universal Christendom. Rebukes much more pointed are coming back
+          to us even from, our own missionaries. A day is coming when, past all the
+          temporary currents of worldly excitement, we shall, each of us, stand alone
+          face to face with the perfect purity of our Redeemer. The thought of such a
+          final interview ought certainly to modify all our judgments now, that we may
+          strive to approve only what we shall then approve.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_34" name="toc_34"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XVII</h2>
+          <p class="noindent">LETTER XVII.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          C.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to those ridiculous stories about the Duchess of Sutherland,
+          which have found their way into many of the prints in America, one has only to
+          be here, moving in society, to see how excessively absurd they are.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">All my way through Scotland, and through England, I was
+          associating, from day to day, with people of every religious denomination, and
+          every rank of life. I have been with, dissenters and with churchmen; with the
+          national Presbyterian church and the free Presbyterian; with Quakers and
+          Baptists.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In all these circles I have heard the great and noble of the
+          land freely spoken of and canvassed, and if there had been the least shadow of
+          a foundation for any such accusations, I certainly should have heard it
+          recognized in some manner. If in no other, such warm friends as I have heard
+          speak would have alluded to the subject in the way of defence; but I have
+          actually never heard any allusion of any sort, as if there was any thing to be
+          explained or accounted for.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As I have before intimated, the Howard family, to which the
+          duchess belongs, is one which has always been on the side of popular rights and
+          popular reform. Lord Carlisle, her brother, has been a leader of the people,
+          particularly during the time of the corn-law reformation, and <em>she</em> has
+          been known to take a wide and generous interest in all these subjects. Every
+          where that I have moved through Scotland and England I have heard her kindness
+          of heart, her affability of manner, and her attention to the feelings of others
+          spoken of as marked characteristics.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Imagine, then, what people must think when they find in
+          respectable American prints the absurd story of her turning her tenants out
+          into the snow, and ordering the cottages to be set on fire over their heads
+          because they would not go out.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">But, if you ask how such an absurd story could ever have been
+          made up, whether there is the least foundation to make it on, I answer, that it
+          is the exaggerated report of a movement made by the present Duke of
+          Sutherland's father, in the year 1811, and which was part of a great movement
+          that passed through, the Highlands of Scotland, when the advancing progress of
+          civilization began to make it necessary to change the estates from military to
+          agricultural establishments.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Soon after the union of the crowns of England and Scotland, the
+          border chiefs found it profitable to adopt upon their estates that system, of
+          agriculture to which their hills were adapted, rather than to continue the
+          maintenance of military retainers. Instead of keeping garrisons, with small
+          armies, in a district, they decided to keep only so many as could profitably
+          cultivate the land. The effect of this, of course, was like disbanding an army.
+          It threw many people out of employ, and forced them to seek for a home
+          elsewhere. Like many other movements which, in their final results, are
+          beneficial to society, this was at first vehemently resisted, and had to be
+          carried into effect in some cases by force. As I have said, it began first in
+          the southern counties of Scotland, soon after the union of the English and
+          Scottish crowns, and gradually crept northward&mdash;one county after another
+          yielding to the change. To a certain extent, as it progressed northward, the
+          demand for labor in the great towns absorbed the surplus population; but when
+          it came into the extreme Highlands, this refuge was wanting. Emigration to
+          America now became the resource; and the surplus population were induced to
+          this by means such as the Colonization Society now recommends and approves for
+          promoting emigration to Liberia.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The first farm that was so formed on the Sutherland estate was
+          in 1806. The great change was made in 1811-12, and completed in 1819-20.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The Sutherland estates are in the most northern portion of
+          Scotland. The distance of this district from the more advanced parts of the
+          kingdom, the total want of roads, the unfrequent communication by sea, and the
+          want of towns, made it necessary to adopt a different course in regard to the
+          location of the Sutherland population from that which circumstances had
+          provided in other parts of Scotland, where they had been removed from the bleak
+          and uncultivable mountains. They had lots given them near the sea, or in more
+          fertile spots, where, by labor and industry, they might maintain themselves.
+          They had two years allowed them for preparing for the change, without payment
+          of rent. Timber for their houses was given, and many other facilities for
+          assisting their change.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The general agent of the Sutherland estate is Mr. Loch. In a
+          speech of this gentleman in the House of Commons, on the second reading of the
+          Scotch poor-law bill, June 12, 1845, he states the following fact with regard
+          to the management of the Sutherland estate during this period, from 1811 to
+          1833, which certainly can speak for itself: "I can state as from fact that,
+          from 1811 to 1833, not one sixpence of rent has been received from that county,
+          but, on the contrary, there has been sent there, for the benefit and
+          improvement of the people, a sum exceeding sixty thousand pounds."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. Loch goes on in the same speech to say, "There is no set of
+          people more industrious than the people of Sutherland. Thirty years since they
+          were engaged in illegal distillation to a very great extent; at the present
+          moment there is not, I believe, an illegal still in the county. Their morals
+          have improved as those habits have been abandoned; and they have added many
+          hundreds, I believe thousands, of acres to the land in cultivation since they
+          were placed upon the shore.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Previous to that change to which I have referred, they exported
+          very few cattle, and hardly any thing else. They were, also, every now and
+          then, exposed to all the difficulties of extreme famine. In the years 1812-13,
+          and 1816-17, so great was the misery that it was necessary to send down oatmeal
+          for their supply to the amount of nine thousand pounds, and that was given to
+          the people. But, since industrious habits were introduced, and they were
+          settled within reach of fishing, no such calamity has overtaken them. Their
+          condition was then so low that they were obliged to bleed their cattle, during
+          the winter, and mix the blood with the remnant of meal they had, in order to
+          save them from starvation.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Since then the country has improved so much that the fish, in
+          particular, which they exported, in 1815, from one village alone, Helmsdale,
+          (which, previous to 1811, did not exist,) amounted to five thousand three
+          hundred and eighteen barrels of herring, and in 1844 thirty-seven thousand five
+          hundred and ninety-four barrels, giving employment to about three thousand nine
+          hundred people. This extends over the whole of the county, in which fifty-six
+          thousand barrels were cured.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Do not let me be supposed to say that there are not cases
+          requiring attention: it must be so in a large population; but there can be no
+          means taken by a landlord, or by those under him, that are not bestowed upon
+          that tenantry.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"It has been said that the contribution by the heritor (the
+          duke) to one kirk session for the poor was but six pounds. Now, in the eight
+          parishes which are called Sutherland proper, the amount of the contribution of
+          the Duke of Sutherland to the kirk session is forty-two pounds a year. That is
+          a very small sum but that sum merely is so given because the landlord thinks
+          that he can distribute his charity in a more beneficial manner to the people;
+          and the amount of charity which he gives&mdash;and which, I may say, is settled
+          on them, for it is given regularly&mdash;is above four hundred and fifty pounds
+          a year.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"Therefore the statements that have been made, so far from being
+          correct, are in every way an exaggeration of what is the fact. No portion of
+          the kingdom has advanced in prosperity so much; and if the honorable member
+          (Mr. S. Crawford) will go down there, I will give him every facility for seeing
+          the state of the people, and he shall judge with his own eyes whether my
+          representation be not correct. I could go through a great many other
+          particulars, but I will not trouble the house now with them. The statements I
+          have made are accurate, and I am quite ready to prove them in any way that is
+          necessary."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">This same Mr. Loch has published a pamphlet, in which he has
+          traced out the effects of the system pursued on the Sutherland estate, in many
+          very important particulars. It appears from this that previously to 1811 the
+          people were generally sub-tenants to middle men, who exacted high rents, and
+          also various perquisites, such as the delivery of poultry and eggs, giving so
+          many days' labor in harvest time, cutting and carrying peat and stones for
+          building.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Since 1811 the people have become immediate tenants, at a
+          greatly diminished rate of rent, and released from all these exactions. For
+          instance, in two parishes, in 1812, the rents were one thousand five hundred
+          and ninety-three pounds, and in 1823 they were only nine hundred and
+          seventy-two pounds. In another parish the reduction of rents has amounted, on
+          an average, to thirty-six per cent. Previous to 1811 the houses were turf huts
+          of the poorest description, in many instances the cattle being kept under the
+          same roof with the family. Since 1811 a large proportion, of their houses have
+          been rebuilt in a superior manner&mdash;the landlord having paid them for their
+          old timber where it could not be moved, and having also contributed the new
+          timber, with lime.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before 1811 all the rents of the estates were used for the
+          personal profit of the landlord; but since that time, both by the present duke
+          and his father, all the rents have been expended on improvements in the county,
+          besides sixty thousand pounds more which have been remitted from. England for
+          the purpose. This money has been spent on churches, school houses, harbors,
+          public inns, roads, and bridges.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In 1811 there was not a carriage road in the county, and only
+          two bridges. Since that time four hundred and thirty miles of road have been
+          constructed on the estate, at the expense of the proprietor and tenants. There
+          is not a turnpike gate in the county, and yet the roads are kept perfect.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before 1811 the mail was conveyed entirely by a foot runner, and
+          there was but one post office in the county; and there was no direct post
+          across the county, but letters to the north and west were forwarded once a
+          month. A mail coach has since been established, to which the late Duke of
+          Sutherland contributed more than two thousand six hundred pounds; and since
+          1834 mail gigs have been established to convey letters to the north and west
+          coast, towards which the Duke of Sutherland contributes three hundred pounds a
+          year. There are thirteen post offices and sub-offices in the county. Before
+          1811 there was no inn in the county fit for the reception of strangers. Since
+          that time there have been fourteen inns either built or enlarged by the
+          duke.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before 1811 there was scarcely a cart on the estate; all the
+          carriage was done on the backs of ponies. The cultivation of the interior was
+          generally executed with a rude kind of spade, and there was not a gig in the
+          county. In 1845 there were one thousand one hundred and thirty carts owned on
+          the estate, and seven hundred and eight ploughs, also forty-one gigs.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before 1812 there was no baker, and only two shops. In 1845
+          there were eight bakers and forty-six grocer's shops, in nearly all of which
+          shoe blacking was sold to some extent, an unmistakable evidence of advancing
+          civilization.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In 1808 the cultivation of the coast side of Sutherland was so
+          defective that it was necessary often, in a fall of snow, to cut down the young
+          Scotch firs to feed the cattle on; and in 1808 hay had to be imported.
+          <em>Now</em> the coast side of Sutherland exhibits an extensive district of
+          land cultivated according to the best principles of modern agriculture; several
+          thousand acres have been added to the arable land by these improvements.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before 1811 there were no woodlands of any extent on the estate,
+          and timber had to be obtained from a distance. Since that time many thousand
+          acres of woodland have been planted, the thinnings of which, being sold to the
+          people at a moderate rate, have greatly increased their comfort and improved
+          their domestic arrangements.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Before 1811 there were only two blacksmiths in the county. In
+          1845 there were forty-two blacksmiths and sixty-three carpenters. Before 1829
+          the exports of the county consisted of black cattle of an inferior description,
+          pickled salmon, and some ponies; but these were precarious sources of profit,
+          as many died in winter for want of food; for example, in the spring of 1807 two
+          hundred cows, five hundred cattle, and more than two hundred ponies died in the
+          parish of Kildonan alone. Since that time the measures pursued by the Duke of
+          Sutherland, in introducing improved breeds of cattle, pigs, and modes of
+          agriculture, have produced results in exports which tell their own story. About
+          forty thousand sheep and one hundred and eighty thousand fleeces of wool are
+          exported annually; also fifty thousand barrels of herring.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The whole fishing village of Helmsdale has been built since that
+          time. It now contains from thirteen to fifteen curing yards covered with slate,
+          and several streets with houses similarly built. The herring fishery, which has
+          been mentioned as so productive, has been established since the change, and
+          affords employment to three thousand nine hundred people.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Since 1811, also, a savings bank has been established in every
+          parish, of which the Duke of Sutherland is patron and treasurer, and the
+          savings have been very considerable.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The education of the children of the people has been a subject
+          of deep interest to the Duke of Sutherland. Besides the parochial schools,
+          (which answer, I suppose, to our district schools,) of which the greater number
+          have been rebuilt or repaired at an expense exceeding what is legally required
+          for such purposes, the Duke of Sutherland contributes to the support of several
+          schools for young females, at which sewing and other branches of education are
+          taught; and in 1844 he agreed to establish twelve general assembly schools in
+          such parts of the county as were without the sphere of the parochial schools,
+          and to build school and schoolmasters' houses, which will, upon an average,
+          cost two hundred pounds each; and to contribute annually two hundred pounds in
+          aid of salaries to the teachers, besides a garden and cows' grass; and in 1845
+          he made an arrangement with the education committee of the Free church, whereby
+          no child, of whatever persuasion, will be beyond the reach of moral and
+          religious education.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There are five medical gentlemen on the estate, three of whom
+          receive allowances from the Duke of Sutherland for attendance on the poor in
+          the districts in which they reside.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">An agricultural association, or farmers' club, has been formed
+          under the patronage of the Duke of Sutherland, of which the other proprietors
+          in the county, and the larger tenantry, are members, which is in a very active
+          and flourishing state. They have recently invited Professor Johnston to visit
+          Sutherland, and give lectures on agricultural chemistry.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The total population of the Sutherland estate is twenty-one
+          thousand seven hundred and eighty-four. To have the charge and care of so large
+          an estate, of course, must require very systematic arrangements; but a talent
+          for system seems to be rather the forte of the English.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The estate is first divided into three districts, and each
+          district is under the superintendence of a factor, who communicates with the
+          duke through a general agent. Besides this, when the duke is on the estate,
+          which is during a portion of every year, he receives on Monday whoever of his
+          tenants wishes to see him. Their complaints or wishes are presented in writing;
+          he takes them into consideration, and gives written replies.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Besides the three factors there is a ground officer, or
+          sub-factor, in every parish, and an agriculturist in the Dunrobin district, who
+          gives particular attention to instructing the people in the best methods of
+          farming. The factors, the ground officers, and the agriculturists all work to
+          one common end. They teach the advantages of draining; of ploughing deep, and
+          forming their ridges in straight lines; of constructing tanks for saving liquid
+          manure. The young farmers also pick up a great deal of knowledge when working
+          as ploughmen or laborers on the more immediate grounds of the estate.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The head agent, Mr. Loch, has been kind enough to put into my
+          hands a general report of the condition of the estate, which he drew up for the
+          inspection of the duke, May 12, 1853, and in which he goes minutely over the
+          condition of every part of the estate.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One anecdote of the former Duke of Sutherland will show the
+          spirit which has influenced the family in their management of the estate. In
+          1817, when there was much suffering on account of bad seasons, the Duke of
+          Sutherland sent down his chief agent to look into the condition of the people,
+          who desired the ministers of the parishes to send in their lists of the poor.
+          To his surprise it was found that there were located on the estate a number of
+          people who had settled there without leave. They amounted to four hundred and
+          eight families, or two thousand persons; and though they had no legal title to
+          remain where they were, no hesitation was shown in supplying them with food in
+          the same manner with those who were tenants, on the sole condition that on the
+          first opportunity they should take cottages on the sea shore, and become
+          industrious people. It was the constant object of the duke to keep the rents of
+          his poorer tenants at a nominal amount.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">What led me more particularly to inquire into these facts was,
+          that I received by mail, while in London, an account containing some of these
+          stories, which had been industriously circulated in America. There were
+          dreadful accounts of cruelties practised in the process of inducing the tenants
+          to change their places of residence. The following is a specimen of these
+          stories:&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="display">
+            <p class="noindent">"I was present at the pulling down and burning of the
+            house of William Chisholm, Badinloskin, in which was lying his wife's mother,
+            an old, bed-ridden woman of near one hundred years of age, none of the family
+            being present. I informed the persons about to set fire to the house of this
+            circumstance, and prevailed on them to wait till Mr. Sellar came. On his
+            arrival I told him of the poor old woman being in a condition unfit for
+            removal. He replied, 'Damn her, the old witch, she has lived too long; let
+            her burn.' Fire was immediately set to the house, and the blankets in which
+            she was carried were in flames before she could be got out. She was placed in
+            a little shed, and it was with great difficulty they were prevented from
+            firing that also. The old woman's daughter arrived while the house was on
+            fire, and assisted the neighbors in removing her mother out of the flames and
+            smoke, presenting a picture of horror which I shall never forget, but cannot
+            attempt to describe. She died within five days."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">With regard to this story Mr. Loch, the agent, says, "I
+          must notice the only thing like a fact stated in the newspaper extract which
+          you sent to me, wherein Mr. Sellar is accused of acts of cruelty towards some
+          of the people. This Mr. Sellar tested, by bringing an action against the then
+          sheriff substitute of the county. He obtained a verdict for heavy damages. The
+          sheriff, by whom, the slander was propagated, left the county. Both are since
+          dead."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Having, through Lord Shaftesbury's kindness, received the
+          benefit of Mr. Loch's corrections to this statement, I am permitted to make a
+          little further extract from his reply. He says,&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">"In addition to what I was able to say in my former paper, I can
+          now state that the Duke of Sutherland has received, from, one of the most
+          determined opposers of the measure, who travelled to the north of Scotland as
+          editor of a newspaper, a letter regretting all he had written on the subject,
+          being convinced that he was entirely misinformed. As you take so much interest
+          in the subject, I will conclude by saying that nothing could exceed the
+          prosperity of the county during the past year; their stock, sheep, and other
+          things sold at high prices; their crops of grain and turnips were never so
+          good, and the potatoes were free from all disease; rents have been paid better
+          than was ever known. * * * As an instance of the improved habits of the
+          farmers, no house is now built for them that they do not require a hot bath and
+          water closets."</p>
+          <p class="dgp">From this long epitome you can gather the following results;
+          first, if the system were a bad one, the Duchess of Sutherland had nothing to
+          do with it, since it was first introduced in 1806, the same year her grace was
+          born; and the accusation against Mr. Sellar dates in 1811, when her grace was
+          five or six years old. The Sutherland arrangements were completed in 1819, and
+          her grace was not married to the duke till 1823, so that, had the arrangement
+          been the worst in the world, it is nothing to the purpose so far as she is
+          concerned.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As to whether the arrangement <em>is</em> a bad one, the facts
+          which have been stated speak for themselves. To my view it is an almost sublime
+          instance of the benevolent employment of superior wealth and power in
+          shortening the struggles of advancing civilization, and elevating in a few
+          years a whole community to a point of education and material prosperity, which,
+          unassisted, they might never have obtained.</p>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div">
+          <a id="toc_35" name="toc_35"></a> 
+          <h2 class="dgp">Letter XVIII</h2>
+          <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi"
+          style="font-variant: small-caps;">London</span>, Sunday, May 8.</p>
+          <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear
+          S.</span>:&mdash;</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Mr. S. is very unwell, in bed, worn out with, the threefold
+          labor of making and receiving calls, visiting, and delivering public addresses.
+          C. went to hear Dr. McNeile, of Liverpool, preach&mdash;one of the leading men
+          of the established church evangelical party, a strong millenarian. C. said that
+          he was as fine a looking person in canonicals as he ever saw in the pulpit. In
+          doctrine he is what we in America should call very strong old school. I went,
+          as I had always predetermined to do, if ever I came to London, to hear Baptist
+          Noel, drawn thither by the melody and memory of those beautiful hymns of his<a
+          href="#note_14"><span class="footnoteref">14</span></a>, which must meet a
+          response in every Christian heart. He is tall and well formed, with one of the
+          most classical and harmonious heads I ever saw. Singularly enough, he reminded
+          me of a bust of Achilles at the London Museum. He is indeed a swift-footed
+          Achilles, but in another race, another warfare. Born of a noble family,
+          naturally endowed with sensitiveness and ideality to appreciate all the
+          amenities and suavities of that brilliant sphere, the sacrifice must have been
+          inconceivably great for him to renounce favor and preferment, position in
+          society,&mdash;which, here in England, means more than Americans can ever dream
+          of,&mdash;to descend from being a court chaplain, to become a preacher in a
+          Baptist dissenting chapel. Whatever may be thought of the correctness of the
+          intellectual conclusions which led him to such a step, no one can fail to
+          revere the strength and purity of principle which could prompt to such
+          sacrifices. Many, perhaps, might have preferred that he should have chosen a
+          less decided course. But if his judgment really led to these results, I see no
+          way in which it was possible for him to have avoided it. It was with an emotion
+          of reverence that I contrasted the bareness, plainness, and poverty of the
+          little chapel with that evident air of elegance and cultivation which appeared
+          in all that he said and did. The sermon was on the text, "Now abideth faith,
+          hope, and charity, these three." Naturally enough, the subject divided itself
+          into faith, hope, and charity.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">His style calm, flowing, and perfectly harmonious, his delivery
+          serene and graceful, the whole flowed over one like a calm and clear strain of
+          music. It was a sermon after the style of Tholuck and other German sermonizers,
+          who seem to hold that the purpose of preaching is not to rouse the soul by an
+          antagonistic struggle with sin through the reason, but to soothe the passions,
+          quiet the will, and bring the mind into a frame in which it shall incline to
+          follow its own convictions of duty. They take for granted, that the reason why
+          men sin is not because they are ignorant, but because they are distracted and
+          tempted by passion; that they do not need so much to be told what is their
+          duty, as persuaded to do it. To me, brought up on the very battle field of
+          controversial theology, accustomed to hear every religious idea guarded by
+          definitions, and thoroughly hammered on a logical anvil before the preacher
+          thought of making any use of it for heart or conscience, though I enjoyed the
+          discourse extremely, I could not help wondering what an American theological
+          professor would make of such a sermon.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To preach on faith, hope, and charity all in one
+          discourse&mdash;why, we should have six sermons on the nature of faith to begin
+          with: on speculative faith; saving faith; practical faith, and the faith of
+          miracles; then we should have the laws of faith, and the connection of faith
+          with evidence, and the nature of evidence, and the different kinds of evidence,
+          and so on. For my part I have had a suspicion since I have been here, that a
+          touch of this kind of thing might improve English preaching; as, also, I do
+          think that sermons of the kind I have described would be useful, by way of
+          alterative, among us. If I could have but one of the two manners, I should
+          prefer our own, because I think that this habit of preaching is one of the
+          strongest educational forces that forms the mind of our country.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After the service was over I went into the vestry, and was
+          introduced to Mr. Noel. The congregation of the established church, to which he
+          ministered during his connection with it, are still warmly attached to him. His
+          leaving them was a dreadful trial; some of them can scarcely mention his name
+          without tears. C. says, with regard to the church singing, as far as he heard
+          it, it is twenty years behind that in Boston. In the afternoon I staid at home
+          to nurse Mr. S. A note from Lady John Russell inviting us there.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Monday, May 9. I should tell you that at the Duchess of
+          Sutherland's an artist, named Burnard, presented me with a very fine cameo head
+          of Wilberforce, cut from a statue in Westminster Abbey. He is from Cornwall, in
+          the south of England, and has attained some celebrity as an artist. He wanted
+          to take a bust of me; and though it always makes me laugh to think of having a
+          new likeness, considering the melancholy results of all former enterprises, yet
+          still I find myself easy to be entreated, in hopes, as Mr. Micawber says, that
+          something may "turn up," though I fear the difficulty is radical in the
+          subject. So I made an appointment with Mr. Burnard, and my very kind friend,
+          Mr. B., in addition to all the other confusions I have occasioned in his
+          mansion, consented to have his study turned into a studio. Upon the heels of
+          this comes another sculptor, who has a bust begun, which he says is going to be
+          finished in Parian, and published whether I sit for it or not, though, of
+          course, he would much prefer to get a look at me now and then. Well, Mr. B.
+          says he may come, too; so there you may imagine me in the study, perched upon a
+          very high stool, dividing my glances between the two sculptors, one of whom, is
+          taking one side of my face, and one the other.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To-day I went with Mr. and Mrs. B. to hear the examination of a
+          borough-school for boys. Mrs. B. told me it was not precisely a charity school,
+          but one where the means of education were furnished at so cheap a rate, that
+          the poorest classes could enjoy them. Arrived at the hall, we found quite a
+          number of <em>distingu&eacute;s</em>, bishops, lords, and clergy, besides
+          numbers of others assembled to hear. The room was hung round with the drawings
+          of the boys, and specimens of handwriting. I was quite astonished at some of
+          them. They were executed by pen, pencil, or crayon&mdash;drawings of machinery,
+          landscapes, heads, groups, and flowers, all in a style which any parent among
+          us would be proud to exhibit, if done by our own children. The boys looked very
+          bright and intelligent, and I was delighted with the system, of instruction
+          which had evidently been pursued with them. We heard them first in the reading
+          and recitation of poetry; after that in arithmetic and algebra, then in natural
+          philosophy, and last, and most satisfactorily, in the Bible. It was perfectly
+          evident from the nature of the questions and answers, that it was not a crammed
+          examination, and that the readiness of reply proceeded not from a mere
+          commitment of words, but from a system of intellectual training, which led to a
+          good understanding of the subject. In arithmetic and algebra the answers were
+          so remarkable as to induce the belief in some that the boys must have been
+          privately prepared on their questions; but the teacher desired Lord John
+          Russell to write down any number of questions which he wished to have given to
+          the toys to solve, from his own mind. Lord John wrote down two or three
+          problems, and I was amused at the zeal and avidity with which the boys seized
+          upon and mastered them. Young England was evidently wide awake, and the prime
+          minister himself was not to catch them, napping. The little fellows'
+          eyes-glistened as they rattled off their solutions. As I know nothing about
+          mathematics, I was all the more impressed; but when they came to be examined in
+          the Bible, I was more astonished than ever. The masters had said that they
+          would be willing any of the gentlemen should question them, and Mr. B.
+          commenced a course of questions on the doctrines of Christianity; asking, Is
+          there any text by which you can prove this, or that? and immediately, with
+          great accuracy, the boys would cite text upon text, quoting not only the more
+          obvious ones, but sometimes applying Scripture with an ingenuity and force
+          which I had not thought of, and always quoting chapter and verse of every text.
+          I do not know who is at the head of this teaching, nor how far it is a sample
+          of English schools; but I know that these boys had been wonderfully well
+          taught, and I felt all my old professional enthusiasm arising.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After the examination Lord John came forward, and gave the boys
+          a good fatherly talk. He told them that they had the happiness to live under a
+          free government, where all offices are alike open to industry and merit, and
+          where any boy might hope by application and talent to rise to any station below
+          that of the sovereign. He made some sensible, practical comments, on their
+          Scripture lessons, and, in short, gave precisely such a kind of address as one
+          of our New England judges or governors might to schoolboys in similar
+          circumstances. Lord John hesitates a little in his delivery, but has a plain,
+          common-sense way of "speaking right on," which seems to be taking. He is a very
+          simple man in his manners, apparently not at all self-conscious, and entered
+          into the feelings of the boys and the masters with good-natured sympathy, which
+          was very winning. I should think he was one of the kind of men who are always
+          perfectly easy and self-possessed let what will come, and who never could be
+          placed in a situation in which he did not feel himself quite at home, and
+          perfectly competent to do whatever was to be done.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">To-day the Duchess of Sutherland called with the Duchess of
+          Argyle. Miss Greenfield happened to be present, and I begged leave to present
+          her, giving a slight sketch of her history. I was pleased with the kind and
+          easy affability with which the Duchess of Sutherland conversed with her,
+          betraying by no inflection of voice, and nothing in air or manner, the great
+          lady talking with the poor girl. She asked all her questions with as much
+          delicacy, and made her request to hear her sing with as much consideration and
+          politeness, as if she had been addressing any one in her own circle. She seemed
+          much pleased with her singing, and remarked that she should be happy to give
+          her an opportunity of performing in Stafford House, so soon as she should be a
+          little relieved of a heavy cold which seemed to oppress her at present. This,
+          of course, will be decisive in her favor in London. The duchess is to let us
+          know when the arrangement is completed.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I never realized so much that there really is no natural
+          prejudice against color in the human mind. Miss Greenfield is a dark
+          mulattress, of a pleasing and gentle face, though by no means handsome. She is
+          short and thick set, with a chest of great amplitude, as one would think on
+          hearing her tenor. I have never seen in any of the persons to whom I have
+          presented her the least indications of suppressed surprise or disgust, any more
+          than we should exhibit on the reception of a dark-complexioned Spaniard or
+          Portuguese. Miss Greenfield bears her success with much quietness and good
+          sense.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Tuesday, May 10. C. and I were to go to-day, with Mrs. Cropper
+          and Lady Hatherton, to call on the poet Rogers. I was told that he was in very
+          delicate health, but that he still received friends at his house. We found the
+          house a perfect cabinet collection of the most rare and costly works of
+          art&mdash;choicest marbles, vases, pictures, gems, and statuary met the eye
+          every where. We spent the time in examining some of these while the servant
+          went to announce us. The mild and venerable old man himself was the choicest
+          picture of all. He has a splendid head, a benign face, and reminded me of an
+          engraving I once saw of Titian. He seemed very glad to see us, spoke to me of
+          the gathering at Stafford House, and asked me what I thought of the place. When
+          I expressed my admiration, he said, "Ah, I have often said it is a fairy
+          palace, and that the duchess is the good fairy." Again, he said, "I have seen
+          all the palaces of Europe, but there is none that I prefer to this." Quite a
+          large circle of friends now came in and were presented. He did not rise to
+          receive them, but sat back in his easy chair, and conversed quietly with us
+          all, sparkling out now and then in a little ripple of playfulness. In this room
+          were his best beloved pictures, and it is his pleasure to show them to his
+          friends.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">By a contrivance quite new to me, the pictures are made to
+          revolve on a pivot, so that by touching a spring they move out from the wall,
+          and can be seen in different lights. There was a picture over the mantel-piece
+          of a Roman Triumphal Procession, painted by Rubens, which attracted my
+          attention by its rich coloring and spirited representation of animals.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">The coloring of Rubens always satisfies my eye better than that
+          of any other master, only a sort of want of grace in the conception disturbs
+          me. In this case both conception and coloring are replete with beauty. Rogers
+          seems to be carefully waited on by an attendant who has learned to interpret
+          every motion and anticipate every desire.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">I took leave of him with a touch of sadness. Of all the
+          brilliant circle of poets, which has so delighted us, he is the last&mdash;and
+          he so feeble! His memories, I am told, extend back to a personal knowledge of
+          Dr. Johnson. How I should like to sit by him, and search into that cabinet of
+          recollections! He presented me his poems, beautifully illustrated by Turner,
+          with his own autograph on the fly leaf. He writes still a clear, firm,
+          beautiful hand, like a lady's.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After that, we all went over to Stafford House, and the Duke and
+          Duchess of Sutherland went with us into Lord Ellesmere's collection adjoining.
+          Lord Ellesmere sails for America to-day, to be present at the opening of the
+          Crystal Palace. He left us a very polite message. The Duchess of Argyle, with
+          her two little boys, was there also. Lord Carlisle very soon came in, and with
+          him&mdash;who do you think? Tell Hattie and Eliza if they could have seen the
+          noble staghound that came bounding in with him, they would have turned from all
+          the pictures on the wall to this living work of art.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Landseer thinks he does well when he paints a dog; another man
+          chisels one in stone: what would they think of themselves if they could string
+          the nerves and muscles, and wake up the affections and instincts, of the real,
+          living creature? That were to be an artist indeed! The dog walked about the
+          gallery, much at home, putting his nose up first to one and then another of the
+          distinguished persons by whom he was surrounded; and once in a while stopping,
+          in an easy race about the hall, would plant himself before a picture, with his
+          head on one side, and an air of high-bred approval, much as I have seen young
+          gentlemen do in similar circumstances. All he wanted was an eyeglass, and he
+          would have been perfectly set up as a critic.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">As for the pictures, I have purposely delayed coming to them.
+          Imagine a botanist dropped into the middle of a blooming prairie, waving with
+          unnumbered dyes and forms of flowers, and only an hour to examine and make
+          acquaintance with them! Room, after room we passed, filled with Titians,
+          Murillos, Guidos, &amp;c. There were four Raphaels, the first I had ever seen.
+          Must I confess the truth? Raphael had been my dream for years. I expected
+          something which would overcome and bewilder me. I expected a divine baptism, a
+          celestial mesmerism; and I found four very beautiful pictures&mdash;pictures
+          which left me quite in possession of my senses, and at liberty to ask myself,
+          am I pleased, and how much? It was not that I did not admire, for I did; but
+          that I did not admire enough. The pictures are all holy families, cabinet size:
+          the figures, Mary, Joseph, the infant Jesus, and John, in various attitudes. A
+          little perverse imp in my heart suggested the questions, "If a modern artist
+          had painted these, what would be thought of them? If I did not know it was
+          Raphael, what should I think?" And I confess that, in that case, I should think
+          that there was in one or two of them a certain hardness and sharpness of
+          outline that was not pleasing to me. Neither, any more than Murillo, has he in
+          these pictures shadowed forth, to my eye, the idea of Mary. Protestant as I am,
+          no Catholic picture contents me. I thought to myself that I had seen among
+          living women, and in a face not far off, a nobler and sweeter idea of
+          womanhood.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It is too much to ask of any earthly artist, however, to gratify
+          the aspirations and cravings of those who have dreamed of them for years
+          unsatisfied. Perhaps no earthly canvas and brash can accomplish this marvel. I
+          think the idealist must lay aside his highest ideal, and be satisfied he shall
+          never meet it, and then he will begin to enjoy. With this mood and
+          understanding I did enjoy very much an Assumption of the Virgin, by Guido, and
+          more especially Diana and her Nymphs, by Titian: in this were that softness of
+          outline, and that blending of light and shadow into each other, of which I felt
+          the want in the Raphaels. I felt as if there was a perfection of cultivated art
+          in this, a classical elegance, which, so far as it went, left the eye or mind
+          nothing to desire. It seemed to me that Titian was a Greek painter, the painter
+          of an etherealized sensuousness, which leaves the spiritual nature wholly
+          unmoved, and therefore all that he attempts he attains. Raphael, on the
+          contrary, has spiritualism; his works enter a sphere where at is more difficult
+          to satisfy the soul; nay, perhaps from the nature of the case, impossible.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There were some glorious pieces of sunshine by Cuyp. There was a
+          massive sea piece by Turner, in which the strong solemn swell of the green
+          waves, and the misty wreathings of clouds, were powerfully given.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">There was a highly dramatic piece, by Paul de la Roche,
+          representing Charles I. in a guard room, insulted by the soldiery. He sits,
+          pale, calm, and resolute, while they are puffing tobacco smoke in his face, and
+          passing vulgar jokes. His thoughts appear to be far away, his eyes looking
+          beyond them with an air of patient, proud weariness.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Independently of the pleasure one receives from particular
+          pictures in these galleries, there is a general exaltation, apart from,
+          critical considerations, an excitement of the nerves, a kind of dreamy state,
+          which is a gain in our experience. Often in a landscape we first single out
+          particular objects,&mdash;this old oak,&mdash;that cascade,&mdash;that
+          ruin,&mdash;and derive from them, an individual joy; then relapsing, we view
+          the landscape as a whole, and seem, to be surrounded by a kind of atmosphere of
+          thought, the result of the combined influence of all. This state, too, I think
+          is not without its influence in educating the &aelig;sthetic sense.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">Even in pictures which we comparatively reject, because we see
+          them, in the presence of superior ones, there is a wealth of beauty which would
+          grow on us from day to day, could we see them, often. When I give a sigh to the
+          thought that in our country we are of necessity, to a great extent, shut from
+          the world of art, I then rejoice in the inspiriting thought that Nature is ever
+          the superior. No tree painting can compare with a splendid elm, in the
+          plenitude of its majesty. There are colorings beyond those of Rubens poured
+          forth around us in every autumn scene; there are Murillos smiling by our
+          household firesides; and as for Madonnas and Venuses, I think with
+          Byron,&mdash;</p>
+          <div class="lg">
+            <p class="l">"I've seen more splendid women, ripe and real,</p>
+            <p class="l">Than all the nonsense of their stone ideal."</p>
+          </div>
+          <p class="noindent">Still, I long for the full advent of our American, day of
+          art, already dawning auspiciously.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">After finishing our inspection, we went back to Stafford House
+          to lunch.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">In the evening we went to Lord John Russell's. We found Lady
+          Russell and her daughters sitting quietly around the evening lamp, quite by
+          themselves. She is elegant and interesting in her personal appearance, and has
+          the same charm of simplicity and sincerity of manner which we have found in so
+          marry of the upper sphere. She is the daughter of the Earl of Minto, and the
+          second wife of Lord John. We passed here an entirely quiet and domestic
+          evening, with only the family circle. The conversation turned on various topics
+          of practical benevolence, connected with the care and education of the poorer
+          classes. Allusion being made to Mrs. Tyler's letter, Lady Russell expressed
+          some concern lest the sincere and well-intended expression of the feeling of
+          the English ladies might have done harm. I said that I did not think the spirit
+          of Mrs. Tyler's letter was to be taken as representing the feeling of American
+          ladies generally,&mdash;only of that class who are determined to maintain the
+          rightfulness of slavery.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">It seems to me that the better and more thinking part of the
+          higher classes in England have conscientiously accepted the responsibility
+          which the world has charged upon them of elevating and educating the poorer
+          classes. In every circle since I have been here in England, I have heard the
+          subject discussed as one of paramount importance.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">One or two young gentlemen dropped in in the course of the
+          evening, and the discourse branched out on the various topics of the day; such
+          as the weather, literature, art, spiritual rappings, and table turnings, and
+          all the floating et ceteras of life. Lady Russell apologized for the absence of
+          Lord John in Parliament, and invited us to dine with, them at their residence
+          in Richmond Park next week, when there is to be a parliamentary recess.</p>
+          <p class="dgp">We left about ten o'clock, and went to pass the night with our
+          friends Mr. and Mrs. Cropper at their hotel, being engaged to breakfast at the
+          West End in the morning.</p>
+          <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center">End of Volume I</p>
+        </div>
+      </div>
+      <hr class="doublepage" />
+      <div class="back">
+        <div class="div" id="footnotes">
+          <a id="toc_36" name="toc_36"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Notes</h2>
+          <dl class="footnote">
+            <dt><a id="note_1" name="note_1">1.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">Since my return to the United States I have been
+              informed that the Freewill Baptist denomination have adopted the same rigid
+              principle of slavery exclusion that characterizes the Scotch Seceders and
+              the Quakers. Let this be known to their honor.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_2" name="note_2">2.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">This venerated, and erudite jurist, the friend and
+              biographer of the celebrated Lord Jeffrey, has recently died.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_3" name="note_3">3.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">This, alas! is no longer true. By the recent passage of
+              the infamous Nebraska bill, this whole region, with the exception of two
+              states already organized, is laid open to slavery. This faithless measure
+              was nobly resisted by a large and able minority in Congress&mdash;honor to
+              them.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_4" name="note_4">4.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">This most learned and amiable judge recently died,
+              while in the very act of charging a jury.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_5" name="note_5">5.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">This resolution, drawn and offered, I think, by my
+              hospitable friend, Mr. Binney, I have mislaid, and cannot find it. It was,
+              however, in character and spirit, just what Mr. James here declares it to
+              be.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_6" name="note_6">6.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">I have been told since my return, that there are some
+              slaveholding Congregational churches in the south; but they have no
+              connection with our New England churches, and certainly are not generally
+              known as Congregationalists distinct from the Presbyterians.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_7" name="note_7">7.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">This has always been supposed and claimed in the United
+              States. Now the time has come to test its truth. If there is this
+              antislavery feeling in nine tenths of the people, the impudent iniquity of
+              the Nebraska bill will call it forth.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_8" name="note_8">8.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">Eight years ago I conscientiously approved and
+              zealously defended this course of the American Board. Subsequent events
+              have satisfied me, that, in the present circumstances of our country,
+              making concessions to slaveholders, however slightly, and with whatever
+              motives, even if not wrong in principle, is productive of no good. It does
+              but strengthen slavery, and makes its demands still more exorbitant, and
+              neutralizes the power of gospel truth.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_9" name="note_9">9.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">This state of things is fast changing. Church members
+              at the south now defend slavery as right. This is a new thing.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_10" name="note_10">10.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">When your chimney has smoked as long as ours, it will,
+              may be, need sweeping too.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_11" name="note_11">11.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">Had I known all about New York and Boston which recent
+              examinations have developed, I should have answered very differently. The
+              fact is, that we in America can no longer congratulate ourselves on not
+              having a degraded and miserable class in our cities, and it will be seen to
+              be necessary for us to arouse to the very same efforts which, have been so
+              successfully making in England.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_12" name="note_12">12.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">This idea is beautifully wrought out by Mrs. Jamieson
+              in her Characteristics of the Women of Shakspeare, to which, the author is
+              indebted for the suggestion.</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_13" name="note_13">13.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">James Russell Lowell's "Beaver Brook."</p>
+            </dd>
+            <dt><a id="note_14" name="note_14">14.</a></dt>
+            <dd>
+              <p class="noindent">The hymns beginning with, these lines, "If human,
+              kindness meet return," and "Behold where, in a mortal form," are
+              specimens.</p>
+            </dd>
+          </dl>
+        </div>
+        <hr class="page" />
+        <div class="div" id="colophon">
+          <a id="toc_37" name="toc_37"></a>
+          <h2 class="dgp">Credits</h2>
+          <dl class="dgp">
+            <dt>November 2004</dt>
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+          </dl>
+        </div>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sunny Memories Of Foreign Lands, Volume 1
+(of 2), by Harriet Elizabeth (Beecher) Stowe
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Sunny Memories Of Foreign Lands, Volume 1 (of 2)
+
+Author: Harriet Elizabeth (Beecher) Stowe
+
+Release Date: November 4, 2004 [EBook #13945]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SUNNY MEMORIES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Joshua Hutchinson, Josephine Paolucci and the PG Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Transcriber's note: Footnotes moved to the end of the text]
+
+
+
+
+SUNNY MEMORIES
+
+OF
+
+FOREIGN LANDS.
+
+BY
+
+MRS. HARRIET BEECHER STOWE,
+
+AUTHOR OF "UNCLE TOM'S CABIN," ETC.
+
+  ... "When thou haply seest
+  Some rare note-worthy object in thy travels,
+  Make me partaker of thy happiness."
+
+  SHAKSPEARE.
+
+ILLUSTRATED FROM DESIGNS BY HAMMATT BILLINGS.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+VOL. I.
+
+BOSTON:
+PHILLIPS, SAMPSON, AND COMPANY.
+NEW YORK: J.C. DERBY.
+1854.
+
+
+Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by PHILLIPS,
+SAMPSON, AND COMPANY, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the
+District of Massachusetts.
+
+STEREOTYPED AT THE BOSTON STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY. WRIGHT AND HASTY,
+PRINTERS, NO. 3 WATER ST.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+This book will be found to be truly what its name denotes, "Sunny
+Memories."
+
+If the criticism be made that every thing is given _couleur de rose_,
+the answer is, Why not? They are the impressions, as they arose, of a
+most agreeable visit. How could they be otherwise?
+
+If there be characters and scenes that seem drawn with too bright a
+pencil, the reader will consider that, after all, there are many worse
+sins than a disposition to think and speak well of one's neighbors. To
+admire and to love may now and then be tolerated, as a variety, as well
+as to carp and criticize. America and England have heretofore abounded
+towards each other in illiberal criticisms. There is not an unfavorable
+aspect of things in the old world which has not become perfectly
+familiar to us; and a little of the other side may have a useful
+influence.
+
+The writer has been decided to issue these letters principally, however,
+by the persevering and deliberate attempts, in certain quarters, to
+misrepresent the circumstances which, are here given. So long as these
+misrepresentations affected only those who were predetermined to believe
+unfavorably, they were not regarded. But as they have had some
+influence, in certain cases, upon really excellent and honest people, it
+is desirable that the truth should be plainly told.
+
+The object of publishing these letters is, therefore, to give to those
+who are true-hearted and honest the same agreeable picture of life and
+manners which met the writer's own, eyes. She had in view a wide circle
+of friends throughout her own country, between whose hearts and her own
+there has been an acquaintance and sympathy of years, and who, loving
+excellence, and feeling the reality of it in themselves, are sincerely
+pleased to have their sphere of hopefulness and charity enlarged. For
+such this is written; and if those who are not such begin to read, let
+them treat the book as a letter not addressed to them, which, having
+opened by mistake, they close and pass to the true owner.
+
+The English reader is requested to bear in mind that the book has not
+been prepared in reference to an English but an American public, and to
+make due allowance for that fact. It would have placed the writer far
+more at ease had there been no prospect of publication in England. As
+this, however, was unavoidable, in some form, the writer has chosen to
+issue it there under her own sanction.
+
+There is one acknowledgment which the author feels happy to make, and
+that is, to those publishers in England, Scotland, France, and Germany
+who have shown a liberality beyond the requirements of legal obligation.
+The author hopes that the day is not far distant when America will
+reciprocate the liberality of other nations by granting to foreign
+authors those rights which her own receive from them.
+
+The _Journal_ which appears in the continental tour is from the pen of
+the Rev. C. Beecher. The _Letters_ were, for the most part, compiled
+from what was written at the time and on the spot. Some few were
+entirely written after the author's return.
+
+It is an affecting thought that several of the persons who appear in
+these letters as among the living, have now passed to the great future.
+The Earl of Warwick, Lord Cockburn, Judge Talfourd, and Dr. Wardlaw are
+no more among the ways of men. Thus, while we read, while we write, the
+shadowy procession is passing; the good are being gathered into life,
+and heaven enriched by the garnered treasures of earth.
+
+H.B.S.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY.
+
+LETTER I.
+The Voyage.
+
+LETTER II.
+Liverpool.--The Dingle.--A Ragged School.--Flowers.--Speke
+Hall.--Antislavery Meeting.
+
+LETTER III.
+Lancashire.--Carlisle.--Gretna Green.--Glasgow.
+
+LETTER IV.
+The Baillie.--The Cathedral.--Dr. Wardlaw.--A Tea Party--Bothwell
+Castle.--Chivalry.--Scott and Burns.
+
+LETTER V.
+Dumbarton Castle.--Duke of Argyle.--Linlithgow.--Edinburgh.
+
+LETTER VI.
+Public Soiree.--Dr. Guthrie.--Craigmiller Castle.--Bass
+Rock.--Bannockburn.--Stirling.--Glamis Castle.--Barclay of Ury.--The
+Dee.--Aberdeen.--The Cathedral.--Brig o'Balgounie.
+
+LETTER VII.
+Letter from a Scotch Bachelor.--Reformatory Schools of
+Aberdeen.--Dundee.--Dr. Dick.--The Queen in Scotland.
+
+LETTER VIII.
+Melrose.--Dry burgh.--Abbotsford.
+
+LETTER IX.
+Douglas of Caver.--Temperance Soiree.--Calls.--Lord Gainsborough.--Sir
+William Hamilton.--George Combe.--Visit to Hawthornden.--Roslin
+Castle.--The Quakers.--Hervey's Studio.--Grass Market.--Grayfriars'
+Churchyard.
+
+LETTER X.
+Birmingham.--Stratford on Avon.
+
+LETTER XI.
+Warwick.--Kenilworth.
+
+LETTER XII.
+Birmingham.--Sybil Jones.--J.A. James.
+
+LETTER XIII.
+London.--Lord Mayor's Dinner.
+
+LETTER XIV.
+London.--Dinner with Earl of Carlisle.
+
+LETTER XV.
+London.--Anniversary of Bible Society.--Dulwich Gallery.--Dinner with
+Mr. E. Cropper.--Soiree at Rev. Mr. Binney's.
+
+LETTER XVI.
+Reception at Stafford House.
+
+LETTER XVII.
+The Sutherland Estate.
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+Baptist Noel.--Borough School.--Rogers the Poet.--Stafford
+House.--Ellesmere Collection of Paintings.--Lord John Russell.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY
+
+
+The following letters were written by Mrs. Stowe for her own personal
+friends, particularly the members of her own family, and mainly as the
+transactions referred to in them occurred. During the tour in England
+and Scotland, frequent allusions are made to public meetings held on her
+account; but no report is made of the meetings, because that
+information, was given fully in the newspapers sent to her friends with
+the letters. Some knowledge of the general tone and spirit of the
+meetings seems necessary, in order to put the readers of the letters in
+as favorable a position to appreciate them as her friends were when they
+were received. Such knowledge it is the object of this introductory
+chapter to furnish.
+
+One or two of the addresses at each of several meetings I have given,
+and generally without alteration, as they appeared in the public
+journals at the time. Only a very few could be published without
+occupying altogether too much space; and those selected are for the most
+part the shortest, and chosen mainly on account of their brevity. This
+is certainly a surer method of giving a true idea, of the spirit which
+actually pervaded the meetings than could be accomplished by any
+selection of mere extracts from the several speeches. In that case,
+there might be supposed to exist a temptation to garble and make unfair
+representations; but in the method pursued, such a suspicion is scarcely
+possible. In relation to my own addresses, I have sometimes taken the
+liberty to correct the reporters by my own recollections and notes. I
+have also, in some cases, somewhat abridged them, (a liberty which I
+have not, to any considerable extent, ventured to take with others,)
+though without changing the sentiment, or even essentially the form, of
+expression. What I have here related is substantially what I actually
+said, and what I am willing to be held responsible for. Many and bitter,
+during the tour, were the misrepresentations and misstatements of a
+hostile press; to which I offer no other reply than the plain facts of
+the following pages. These were the sentiments uttered, this was the
+manner of their utterance; and I cheerfully submit them to the judgment
+of a candid public.
+
+I went to Europe without the least anticipation of the kind of reception
+which awaited us; it was all a surprise and an embarrassment to me. I
+went with the strongest love of my country, and the highest veneration
+for her institutions; I every where in Britain found the most cordial
+sympathy with this love and veneration; and I returned with both greatly
+increased. But slavery I do not recognize as an institution of my
+country; it is an excrescence, a vile usurpation, hated of God, and
+abhorred by man; I am under no obligation either to love or respect it.
+He is the traitor to America, and American institutions, who reckons
+slavery as one of them, and, as such, screens it from assault. Slavery
+is a blight, a canker, a poison, in the very heart of our republic; and
+unless the nation, as such, disengage itself from it, it will most
+assuredly be our ruin. The patriot, the philanthropist, the Christian,
+truly enlightened, sees no other alternative. The developments of the
+present session of our national Congress are making this great truth
+clearly perceptible even to the dullest apprehension.
+
+C.E. STOWE.
+
+ANDOVER, _May_ 30, 1854.
+
+
+
+
+BREAKFAST IN LIVERPOOL--APRIL 11.
+
+
+THE REV. DR. M'NEILE, who had been requested by the respected host to
+express to Mrs. Stowe the hearty congratulations of the first meeting of
+friends she had seen in England, thus addressed her: "Mrs. Stowe: I have
+been requested by those kind friends under whose hospitable roof we are
+assembled to give some expression to the sincere and cordial welcome
+with which, we greet your arrival in this country. I find real
+difficulty in making this attempt, not from want of matter, nor from
+want of feeling, but because it is not in the power of any language I
+can command, to give adequate expression to the affectionate enthusiasm
+which pervades all ranks of our community, and which is truly
+characteristic of the humanity and the Christianity of Great Britain. We
+welcome Mrs. Stowe as the honored instrument of that noble impulse which
+public opinion and public feeling throughout Christendom have received
+against the demoralizing and degrading system of human slavery. That
+system is still, unhappily, identified in the minds of many with the
+supposed material interests of society, and even with the well being of
+the slaves themselves; but the plausible arguments and ingenious
+sophistries by which it has been defended shrink with shame from the
+facts without exaggeration, the principles without compromise, the
+exposures without indelicacy, and the irrepressible glow of hearty
+feeling--O, how true to nature!--which characterize Mrs. Stowe's
+immortal book. Yet I feel assured that the effect produced by Uncle
+Tom's Cabin is not mainly or chiefly to be traced to the interest of the
+narrative, however captivating, nor to the exposures of the slave
+system, however withering: these would, indeed, be sufficient to produce
+a good effect; but this book contains more and better than even these;
+it contains what will never be lost sight of--the genuine application to
+the several branches of the subject of the sacred word of God. By no
+part of this wonderful work has my own mind been so permanently
+impressed as by the thorough legitimacy of the application of
+Scripture,--no wresting, no mere verbal adaptation, but in every
+instance the passage cited is made to illustrate something in the
+narrative, or in the development of character, in strictest accordance
+with the design of the passage in its original sacred context. We
+welcome Mrs. Stowe, then, as an honored fellow-laborer in the highest
+and best of causes; and I am much mistaken if this tone of welcome be
+not by far the most congenial to her own feelings. We unaffectedly
+sympathize with much which she must feel, and, as a lady, more
+peculiarly feel, in passing through that ordeal of gratulation which is
+sure to attend her steps in every part of our country; and I am
+persuaded that we cannot manifest our gratitude for her past services in
+any way more acceptable to herself than by earnest prayer on her behalf
+that she may be kept in the simplicity of Christ, enjoying in her daily
+experience the tender consolations of the Divine Spirit, and in the
+midst of the most flattering commendations saying and feeling, in the
+instincts of a renewed heart, 'Not unto me, O Lord, not unto me, but
+unto thy name be the praise, for thy mercy, and for thy truth's sake.'"
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE then rose, and said, "If we are silent, it is not
+because we do not feel, but because we feel more than we can express.
+When that book was written, we had no hope except in God. We had no
+expectation of reward save in the prayers of the poor. The surprising
+enthusiasm which has been excited by the book all over Christendom is an
+indication that God has a work to be done in the cause of emancipation.
+The present aspect of things in the United States is discouraging. Every
+change in society, every financial revolution, every political and
+ecclesiastical movement, seems to pass and leave the African race
+without help. Our only resource is prayer. God surely cannot will that
+the unhappy condition of this portion of his children should continue
+forever. There are some indications of a movement in the southern mind.
+A leading southern paper lately declared editorially that slavery is
+either right or wrong: if it is wrong, it is to be abandoned: if it is
+right, it must be defended. The _Southern Press_, a paper established to
+defend the slavery interest at the seat of government, has proposed that
+the worst features of the system, such as the separation of families,
+should be abandoned. But it is evident that with that restriction the
+system could not exist. For instance, a man wants to buy a cook; but she
+has a husband and seven children. Now, is he to buy a man and seven
+children, for whom he has no use, for the sake of having a cook? Nothing
+on the present occasion has been so grateful to our feelings as the
+reference made by Dr. M'Neile to the Christian character of the book.
+Incredible as it may seem to those who are without prejudice, it is
+nevertheless a fact that this book was condemned by some religious
+newspapers in the United States as anti-Christian, and its author
+associated with infidels and disorganizers; and had not it been for the
+decided expression of the mind of English Christians, and of Christendom
+itself, on this point, there is reason to fear that the proslavery power
+of the United States would have succeeded in putting the book under
+foot. Therefore it is peculiarly gratifying that so full an indorsement
+has been given the work, in this respect, by eminent Christians of the
+highest character in Europe; for, however some in the United States may
+affect to despise what is said by the wise and good of this kingdom and
+the Christian world, they do feel it, and feel it intensely." In answer
+to an inquiry by Dr. M'Neile as to the mode in which southern Christians
+defended the institution, Dr. Stowe remarked that "a great change had
+taken place in that respect during the last thirty years. Formerly all
+Christians united in condemning the system; but of late some have begun
+to defend it on scriptural grounds. The Rev. Mr. Smylie, of Mississippi,
+wrote a pamphlet in the defensive; and Professor Thornwell, of South
+Carolina, has published the most candid and able statement of that
+argument which has been given. Their main reliance is on the system of
+Mosaic servitude, wholly unlike though it was to the American system of
+slavery. As to what this American system of slavery is, the best
+documents for enlightening the minds of British Christians are the
+commercial newspapers of the slaveholding states. There you see slavery
+as it is, and certainly without any exaggeration. Read the
+advertisements for the sale of slaves and for the apprehension of
+fugitives, the descriptions of the persons of slaves, of dogs for
+hunting slaves, &c., and you see how the whole matter as viewed by the
+southern mind. Say what they will about it, practically they generally
+regard the separation of families no more than the separation of cattle,
+and the slaves as so much property, and nothing else. Their own papers
+show that the pictures of the internal slave trade given in Uncle Tom,
+so far from being overdrawn, fall even below the truth. Go on, then, in
+forming and expressing your views on this subject. In laboring for the
+overthrow of American slavery you are pursuing a course of Christian
+duty as legitimate as in laboring to suppress the suttees of India, the
+cannibalism of the Fejee Islands, and other barbarities of heathenism,
+of which human slavery is but a relic. These evils can be finally
+removed by the benign influence of the love of Christ, and no other
+power is competent to the work."
+
+
+PUBLIC MEETING IN LIVERPOOL--APRIL 13.
+
+The Chairman, (A. HODGSON, Esq.,) in opening the proceedings, thus
+addressed Mrs. Beecher Stowe: "The modesty of our English ladies, which,
+like your own, shrinks instinctively from unnecessary publicity, has
+devolved on me, as one of the trustees of the Liverpool Association, the
+gratifying office of tendering to you, at then request, a slight
+testimonial of their gratitude and respect. We had hoped almost to the
+last moment that Mrs. Cropper would have represented, on this day, the
+ladies with whom she has cooperated, and among whom she has taken a
+distinguished lead in the great work which you had the honor and the
+happiness to originate. But she has felt with you that the path most
+grateful and most congenial to female exertion, even in its widest and
+most elevated range, is still a retired and a shady path; and you have
+taught us that the voice which most effectually kindles enthusiasm in
+millions is the still small voice which comes forth from the sanctuary
+of a woman's breast, and from the retirement of a woman's closet--the
+simple but unequivocal expression of her unfaltering faith, and the
+evidence of her generous and unshrinking self-devotion. In the same
+spirit, and as deeply impressed with the retired character of female
+exertion, the ladies who have so warmly greeted your arrival in this
+country have still felt it entirely consistent with the most sensitive
+delicacy to make a public response to your appeal, and to hail with
+acclamation your thrilling protest against those outrages on our common
+nature which circumstances have forced on your observation. They engage
+in no political discussion, they embark in no public controversy; but
+when an intrepid sister appeals to the instincts of women of every color
+and of every clime against a system which sanctions the violation of the
+fondest affections and the disruption of the tenderest ties; which
+snatches the clinging wife from the agonized husband, and the child from
+the breast of its fainting mother; which leaves the young and innocent
+female a helpless and almost inevitable victim of a licentiousness
+controlled by no law and checked by no public opinion,--it is surely as
+feminine as it is Christian to sympathize with her in her perilous task,
+and to rejoice that she has shed such a vivid light on enormities which
+can exist only while unknown or unbelieved. We acknowledge with regret
+and shame that that fatal system was introduced into America by Great
+Britain; but having in our colonies returned from our devious paths, we
+may without presumption, in the spirit of friendly suggestion, implore
+our honored transatlantic friends to do the same. The ladies of Great
+Britain have been admonished by their fair sisters in America, (and I am
+sure they are bound to take the admonition in good part,) that there are
+social evils in our own country demanding our special vigilance and
+care. This is most true; but it is also true that the deepest sympathies
+and most strenuous efforts are directed, in the first instance, to the
+evils which exist among ourselves, and that the rays of benevolence
+which flash across the Atlantic are often but the indication of the
+intensity of the bright flame which is shedding light and heat on all in
+its immediate vicinity. I believe this is the case with most of those
+who have taken a prominent part in this great movement. I am sure it is
+preeminently the case with respect to many of those by whom you are
+surrounded; and I hardly know a more miserable fallacy, by which
+sensible men allow themselves to be deluded, than that which assumes
+that every emotion of sympathy which is kindled by objects abroad is
+abstracted from our sympathies at home. All experience points to a
+directly opposite conclusion; and surely the divine command, 'to go into
+all the world, and preach the gospel to every creature,' should put to
+shame and silence the specious but transparent selfishness which would
+contract the limits of human sympathy, and veil itself under the garb of
+superior sagacity. But I must not detain you by any further
+observations. Allow me, in the name of the associated ladies, to present
+you with this small memorial of great regard, and to tender to you their
+and my best wishes for your health and happiness while you are
+sojourning among us, for the blessing of God on your children during
+your absence, and for your safe return to your native country when your
+mission shall be accomplished. I have just been requested to state the
+following particulars: In December last, a few ladies met in this place
+to consider the best plan of obtaining signatures in Liverpool to an
+address to the women of America on the subject of negro slavery, in
+substance coinciding with the one so nobly proposed and carried forward
+by Lord Shaftesbury. At this meeting it was suggested that it would be a
+sincere gratification to many if some testimonial could be presented to
+Mrs. Stowe which would indicate the sense, almost universally
+entertained, that she had been the instrument in the hands of God of
+arousing the slumbering sympathies of this country in behalf of the
+suffering slave. It was felt desirable to render the expression of such
+a feeling as general as possible; and to effect this it was resolved
+that a subscription should be set on foot, consisting of contributions
+of one penny and upwards, with a view to raise a testimonial, to be
+presented to Mrs. Stowe by the ladies of Liverpool, as an expression of
+their grateful appreciation of her valuable services in the cause of the
+negro, and as a token of admiration for the genius and of high esteem
+for the philanthropy and Christian feeling which animate her great work,
+Uncle Tom's Cabin. It ought, perhaps, to be added, that some friends,
+not residents of Liverpool, have united in this tribute. As many of the
+ladies connected with the effort to obtain signatures to the address may
+not be aware of the whole number appended, they may be interested in
+knowing that they amounted in all to twenty-one thousand nine hundred
+and fifty-three. Of these, twenty thousand nine hundred and thirty-six
+were obtained by ladies in Liverpool, from their friends either in this
+neighborhood or at a distance; and one thousand and seventeen were sent
+to the committee in London from other parts, by those who preferred our
+form of address. The total number of signatures from all parts of the
+kingdom to Lord Shaftesbury's address was upwards of five hundred
+thousand."
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE then said, "On behalf of Mrs. Stowe I will read from her
+pen the response to your generous offering: 'It is impossible for me to
+express the feelings of my heart at the kind and generous manner in
+which I have been received upon English shores. Just when I had begun to
+realize that a whole wide ocean lay between me and all that is dearest
+to me, I found most unexpectedly a home and friends waiting to receive
+me here. I have had not an hour in which to know the heart of a
+stranger. I have been made to feel at home since the first moment of
+landing, and wherever I have looked I have seen only the faces of
+friends. It is with deep feeling that I have found myself on ground that
+has been consecrated and made holy by the prayers and efforts of those
+who first commenced the struggle for that sacred cause which has proved
+so successful in England, and which I have a solemn assurance will yet
+be successful in my own country. It is a touching thought that here so
+many have given all that they have, and are, in behalf of oppressed
+humanity. It is touching to remember that one of the noblest men which
+England has ever produced now lies stricken under the heavy hand of
+disease, through a last labor of love in this cause. May God grant us
+all to feel that nothing is too dear or precious to be given in a work
+for which such men have lived, and labored, and suffered. No great good
+is ever wrought out for the human race without the suffering of great
+hearts. They who would serve their fellow-men are ever reminded that the
+Captain of their salvation was made perfect through suffering. I
+gratefully accept the offering confided to my care, and trust it may be
+so employed that the blessing of many "who are ready to perish" will
+return upon your heads. Let me ask those--those fathers and mothers in
+Israel--who have lived and prayed many years for this cause, that as
+they prayed for their own country in the hour of her struggle, so they
+will pray now for ours. Love and prayer can hurt no one, can offend no
+one, and prayer is a real power. If the hearts of all the real
+Christians of England are poured out in prayer, it will be felt through
+the heart of the whole American church. Let us all look upward, from our
+own feebleness and darkness, to Him of whom it is said, "He shall not
+fail nor be discouraged till he have set judgment in the earth." To him,
+the only wise God our Saviour, be glory and majesty, dominion and power,
+both now and ever. Amen.'--These are the words, my friends, which Mrs.
+Stowe has written, and I cannot forbear to add a few words of my own. It
+was our intention, as the invitation to visit Great Britain came from
+Glasgow, to make our first landing there. But it was ordered by
+Providence that we should land here; and surely there is no place in the
+kingdom where a landing could be more appropriate, and where the
+reception could have been more cordial. [Hear, hear!] It was wholly
+unexpected by us, I can assure you. We know that there were friendly
+hearts here, for we had received abundant testimonials to that effect
+from letters which had come to us across the Atlantic--letters wholly
+unexpected, and which filled our souls with surprise; but we had no
+thought that there was such a feeling throughout England, and we
+scarcely know how to conduct ourselves under it, for we are not
+accustomed to this kind of receptions. In our own country, unhappily, we
+are very much divided, and the preponderance of feeling expressed is in
+the other direction, entirely in opposition, and not in favor. [Hear,
+hear!] We knew that this city had been the scene of some of the
+greatest, most disinterested, and most powerful efforts in behalf of
+emancipation. The name of Clarkson was indissolubly associated with this
+place, for here he came to make his investigations, and here he was in
+danger of his life, and here he was protected by friends who stood by
+him through the whole struggle. The names of Cropper, and of Stephen,
+and of many others in this city, were very familiar to us--[Hear,
+hear!]--and it was in connection with this city that we received what to
+our feelings was a most effective testimonial, an unexpected letter from
+Lord Denman, whom we have always venerated. When I was in England in
+1836, there were no two persons whom I more desired to see than the Duke
+of Wellington and Lord Denman; and soon I sought admission to the House
+of Lords, where I had the pleasure both of seeing and hearing England's
+great captain; and I found my way to the Court of Queen's Bench, where I
+had the pleasure of seeing and hearing England's great judge. But how
+unexpected was all this to us! When that book was written, in sorrow,
+and in sadness, and obscurity, and with the heart almost broken in the
+view of the sufferings which it described, and the still greater
+sufferings which it dared not describe, there was no expectation of any
+thing but the prayers of the sufferers and the blessing of God, who has
+said that the seed which is buried in the earth shall spring up in his
+own good time; and though it may be long buried, it will still at length
+come forth and bear fruit. We never could believe that slavery in our
+land would be a perpetual curse; but we felt, and felt deeply, that
+there must be a terrible struggle before we could be delivered from it,
+and that there must be suffering and martyrdom in this cause, as in
+every other great cause; for a struggle of eighteen years had taught us
+its strength. And, under God, we rely very much on the Christian public
+of Great Britain; for every expression of feeling from the wise and good
+of this land, with whatever petulance it may be met by some, goes to the
+heart of the American people. [Hear, hear!] You must not judge of the
+American people by the expressions which have come across the Atlantic
+in reference to the subject. Nine tenths of the American people, I
+think, are, in opinion at least, with you on this great subject; [Hear,
+hear!] but there is a tremendous pressure brought to bear upon all who
+are in favor of emancipation. The whole political power, the whole money
+power, almost the whole ecclesiastical power is wielded in defence of
+slavery, protecting it from all aggression; and it is as much as a man's
+reputation is worth to utter a syllable boldly and openly on the other
+side. Let me say to the ladies who have been active in getting up the
+address on the subject of slavery, that you have been doing a great and
+glorious work, and a work most appropriate for you to do; for in slavery
+it is woman that suffers most intensely, and the suffering woman has a
+claim upon the sympathy of her sisters in other lands. This address will
+produce a powerful impression throughout the country. There are ladies
+already of the highest character in the nation pondering how they shall
+make a suitable response, and what they shall do in reference to it that
+will be acceptable to the ladies of the United Kingdom, or will be
+profitable to the slave; and in due season you will see that the hearts
+of American women are alive to this matter, as well as the hearts of the
+women of this country. [Hear, hear!] Such was the mighty influence
+brought to bear upon every thing that threatened slavery, that had it
+not been for the decided expression on this side of the Atlantic in
+reference to the work which has exerted, under God, so much influence,
+there is every reason to fear that it would have been crushed and put
+under foot, as many other efforts for the overthrow of slavery have been
+in the United States. But it is impossible; the unanimous voice of
+Christendom prohibits it; and it shows that God has a work to
+accomplish, and that he has just commenced it. There are social evils in
+England. Undoubtedly there are; but the difference between the social
+evils in England and this great evil of slavery in the United States is
+just here: In England, the power of the government and the power of
+Christian sympathy are exerted for the removal of those evils. Look at
+the committees of inquiry in Parliament, look at the amount of
+information collected with regard to the suffering poor in their
+reports, and see how ready the government of Great Britain is to enter
+into those inquiries, and to remove those evils. Look at the benevolent
+institutions of the United Kingdom, and see how active all these are in
+administering relief; and then see the condition of slavery in the
+United States, where the whole power of the government is used in the
+contrary direction, where every influence is brought to bear to prevent
+any mitigation of the evil, and where every voice that is lifted to
+plead for a mitigation is drowned in vituperation and abuse from those
+who are determined that the evil shall not be mitigated. This is the
+difference: England repents and reforms. America refuses to repent and
+reform. It is said, 'Let each country take care of itself, and let the
+ladies of England attend to their own business.' Now I have always found
+that those who labor at home are those who labor abroad; [Hear, hear!]
+and those who say, 'Let us do the work at home,' are those who do no
+work of good either at home or abroad. [Hear, hear!] It was just so when
+the great missionary effort came up in the United States. They said, 'We
+have a great territory here. Let us send missionaries to our own
+territories. Why should we send missionaries across the ocean?' But
+those who sent missionaries across the ocean were those who sent
+missionaries in the United States; and those who did not send
+missionaries across the ocean were those who sent missionaries nowhere.
+[Hear, hear!] They who say, 'Charity begins at home,' are generally
+those who have no charity; and when I see a lady whose name is signed to
+this address, I am sure to find a lady who is exercising her benevolence
+at home. Let me thank you for all the interest you have manifested and
+for all the kindness which we have received at your hands, which we
+shall ever remember, both with gratitude to you and to God our Father."
+
+The REV. C.M. BIRRELL afterwards made a few remarks in proposing a vote
+of thanks to the ladies who had contributed the testimonial which had
+been presented to the distinguished writer of Uncle Tom's Cabin. He said
+it was most delightful to hear of the great good which that remarkable
+volume had done, and, he humbly believed, by God's special inspiration
+and guidance, was doing, in the United States of America. It was not
+confined to the United States of America. The volume was going forth
+over the whole earth, and great good was resulting, directly and
+indirectly, by God's providence, from it. He was told a few days ago, by
+a gentleman fully conversant with the facts, that an edition of Uncle
+Tom, circulated in Belgium, had created an earnest desire on the part of
+the people to read the Bible, so frequently quoted in that beautiful
+work, and that in consequence of it a great run had been made upon the
+Bible Society's depositories in that kingdom. [Hear, hear!] The priests
+of the church of Rome, true to their instinct, in endeavoring to
+maintain the position which they could not otherwise hold, had published
+another edition, from which, they had entirely excluded all reference to
+the word of God. [Hear, hear!] He had been also told that at St.
+Petersburg an edition of Uncle Tom had been translated into the Russian
+tongue, and that it was being distributed, by command of the emperor,
+throughout the whole of that vast empire. It was true that the
+circulation of the work there did not spring from a special desire on
+the part of the emperor to give liberty to the people of Russia, but
+because he wished to create a third power in the empire, to act upon the
+nobles; he wished to cause them to set free their serfs, in order that a
+third power might be created in the empire to serve as a check upon
+them. But whatever was the cause, let us thank God, the Author of all
+gifts, for what is done.
+
+Sir GEORGE STEPHEN seconded the motion of thanks to the ladies,
+observing that he had peculiar reasons for doing so. He supposed that he
+was one of the oldest laborers in this cause. Thirty years ago he found
+that the work of one lady was equal to that of fifty men; and now we had
+the work of one lady which was equal to that of all the male sex.
+[Applause.]
+
+
+PUBLIC MEETING IN GLASGOW--APRIL 15.
+
+THE REV. DR. WARDLAW was introduced by the chairman, and spoke as
+follows:--
+
+"The members of the Glasgow Ladies' New Antislavery Association and the
+citizens of Glasgow, now assembled, hail with no ordinary satisfaction,
+and with becoming gratitude to a kindly protecting Providence, the safe
+arrival amongst them of Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe. They feel obliged by
+her accepting, with so much promptitude and cordiality, the invitation
+addressed to her--an invitation intended to express the favor they bore
+to her, and the honor in which they held her, as the eminently gifted
+authoress of Uncle Tom's Cabin--a work of humble name, but of high
+excellence and world-wide celebrity; a work the felicity of whose
+conception is more than equalled by the admirable tact of its execution,
+and the Christian benevolence of its design, by its exquisite adaptation
+to its accomplishment; distinguished by the singular variety and
+consistent discrimination of its characters; by the purity of its
+religious and moral principles; by its racy humor, and its touching
+pathos, and its effectively powerful appeals to the judgment, the
+conscience, and the heart; a work, indeed, of whose sterling worth the
+earnest test is to be found in the fact of its having so universally
+touched and stirred the bosom of our common humanity, in all classes of
+society, that its humble name has become 'a household word,' from the
+palace to the cottage, and of the extent of its circulation having been
+unprecedented in the history of the literature of this or of any other
+age or country. They would, at the same time, include in their hearty
+welcome the Rev. C.E. Stowe, Professor of Theological Literature in the
+Andover Theological Seminary, Massachusetts, whose eminent
+qualifications, as a classical scholar, a man of general literature, and
+a theologian, have recently placed him in a highly honorable and
+responsible position, and who, on the subject of slavery, holds the same
+principles and breathes the same spirit of freedom with his accomplished
+partner; and, along with them too, another member of the same singularly
+talented family with herself. They delight to think of the amount of
+good to the cause of emancipation and universal liberty which her Cabin
+has already done, and to anticipate the still larger amount it is yet
+destined to do, now that the Key to the Cabin has triumphantly shown it
+to be no fiction; and in whatever further efforts she may be honored of
+Heaven to make in the same noble cause, they desire, unitedly and
+heartily, to cheer her on, and bid her 'God speed.' I cannot but feel
+myself highly honored in having been requested to move this resolution.
+In doing so, I have the happiness of introducing to a Glasgow audience a
+lady from the transatlantic continent, the extraordinary production of
+whose pen, referred to in the resolution, had made her name familiar in
+our country and through Europe, ere she appeared in person among us. My
+judgment and my heart alike fully respond to every thing said in the
+resolution respecting that inimitable work. We are accustomed to make a
+distinction between works of nature and works of art, but in a sense
+which, all will readily understand, this is preeminently both. As a work
+of art, it bears upon it, throughout, the stamp of original and varied
+genius. And yet, throughout, it equally bears the impress of nature--of
+human nature--in its worst and its best, and all its intermediate
+phases. The man who has read that little volume without laughing and
+crying alternately--without the meltings of pity, the thrillings of
+horror, and the kindlings of indignation--would supply a far better
+argument for a distinct race than a negro. [Loud laughter and cheers.]
+He must have a humanity peculiarly his own. And he who can read it
+without the breathings of devotion must, if he calls himself a
+Christian, have a Christianity as unique and questionable as his
+humanity. [Cheering.] Never did work produce such a sensation. Among us
+that sensation has happily been all of one kind. It has been the
+stirring of universal sympathy and unbounded admiration. Not so in the
+country of its own and of its gifted authoress's birth. There, the
+ferment has been among the friends as well as the foes of slavery. Among
+the former all is rage. Among the latter, while there are some--we trust
+not a few--who take the same high and noble position with the talented
+authoress, there are too many, we fear, who are frightened by this
+uncompromising boldness, and who are drawn back rather than drawn
+forward by it--who 'halt between two opinions,' and are the advocates of
+medium principles and medium measures. By many among ourselves, the
+excitement which has been stirred is contemplated with apprehension.
+They regard it as unfavorable to emancipation, and likely to retard
+rather than to advance its progress. I must confess myself of a somewhat
+different mind. That the cause may be obstructed by it for a time, may
+be true. But it will work well in the long run. Good will ultimately
+come out of it. Stir is better than stagnancy. Irritation is better than
+apathy. Whence does it arise? From two sources. The conscience and the
+honor of the country have both been touched. Conscience winces under the
+touch. The provocation shows it to be ill at ease. The wound is painful,
+and it naturally awakens fretfulness and resentment. But by and by the
+angry excitement will subside, and the salutary conviction will remain
+and operate. The national honor, too, has been touched. Our friends
+across the wave boast, and with good reason, of the free principles of
+their constitution. They glory in their liberty. But they cannot fail to
+feel the inconsistency of their position, and the exposure of it to the
+world kindles on the cheek the blush of shame and the reddening fire of
+displeasure. Now, the blush has aright source. It is the blush of
+patriotism--it is for their country. But there is anger with the shame;
+for few things are more galling than to feel that to be wrong which you
+are unable to justify, and which, yet, you are not prepared to
+relinquish. [Loud applause.] On the whole, I cannot but regard the
+agitation which has been produced as an auspicious, rather than a
+discouraging omen. It was when the waters of the pool were troubled that
+their healing virtue was imparted. Let us then hope that the troubling
+of the waters by this ministering angel of mercy may impregnate them
+with a similar sanative influence, [the reverend doctor here pointed
+towards Mrs. Stowe, while the audience burst out with enthusiastic
+acclamations and waving of handkerchiefs,] and thus ultimately
+contribute to the healing of the ghastly wounds of the chain and the
+lash, and to the setting of the crushed and bowed down erect in the
+soundness and dignity of their true manhood. [Loud cheering.] Sorry we
+are that Mrs. Stowe should appear amongst us in a state of broken health
+and physical exhaustion. No one who looks at the Cabin and at the Key,
+and who knows aught of the effect of severe mental labor on the bodily
+frame, will marvel at this. We fondly trust, and earnestly pray, that
+her temporary sojourn among us may, by the divine blessing, recruit her
+strength, and contribute to the prolongation of a life so promising of
+benefit to suffering humanity, and to the glory of God. [Cheers.]
+Meanwhile she enjoys the happy consciousness that she is suffering in a
+good cause. A better there could not be. It is one which involves the
+well being, corporeal and mental, physical and spiritual, temporal and
+eternal, of degraded, plundered, oppressed, darkened, brutalized,
+perishing millions. And, while we delight in furnishing her for a time
+with a peaceful retreat from 'the wrath of men,' from the resentment of
+those who, did they but rightly know their own interests, would have
+smiled upon her, and blessed her. We trust she enjoys, and ever will
+enjoy, quietness and assurance of an infinitely higher order--the divine
+Master, whom she serves and seeks to honor; proving to her, in the terms
+of his own promise, 'a refuge from the storm, and a covert from the
+tempest.' [Enthusiastic cheering.] It may sound strangely, that, when
+assembled for the very purpose of denouncing 'property in man,' we
+should be putting in our claims for a share of property in woman. So,
+however, it is. We claim Mrs. Stowe as ours--[renewed, cheers]--not ours
+only, but still ours. She is British and European property as well as
+American. She is the property of the whole world of literature and the
+whole world of humanity. [Cheers.] Should our transatlantic friends
+repudiate the property, they may transfer their share--[laughter and
+cheers]--most gladly will we accept the transference."
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE, on rising to reply, was greeted with the most
+enthusiastic applause. He said that he appeared in the name of Mrs.
+Stowe, and in his own name, for the purpose of cordially thanking the
+people of Glasgow for the reception that had been given to them. But he
+could not find words to do it. Was it true that all this affectionate
+interest was merited? [Cheers.] He could not imagine any book capable of
+exciting such expressions of attachment; indeed he was inclined to
+believe it had not been written at all--he "'spected it grew."
+[Tremendous cheers.] Under the oppression of the fugitive slave law the
+book had sprung from the soil ready made. He regretted exceedingly that
+in consequence of the state of Mrs. Stowe's health, and in consequence
+of the great pressure of engagements on himself, their stay in this
+country would be necessarily short. But he hoped they would accept of
+the expression of thanks they offered, and their apology for not being
+in a condition to meet their kindness as they would desire. When they
+were about to set out from Andover, a friend of theirs expressed his
+astonishment that they should enter upon such a journey in the delicate
+state of Mrs. Stowe's health. The Scotch people, he doubted not, would
+be kind to them--_they would kill them with kindness_; and he feared it
+would be so. It was from Glasgow the idea of the invitation they had
+received had originated; and well might it originate in that city, for
+when had been the time that Glasgow was not in earnest on the subject of
+freedom? They had had hard struggles for liberty, and they had been
+successful, and the people in the United States were now struggling for
+the same privilege. But they labored under circumstances greatly
+different from those in Great Britain. Scotland had ever been
+distinguished for its love of freedom. [Great applause.] The religious
+denominations in the United States--to a great extent, give few and
+feeble expressions of disapprobation against the system of slavery. Two
+denominations had never been silent--the Old Scotch Seceders, or
+Covenanters, and the disciples of William Penn--not one of their number,
+in the United States, owns a slave. Not one can own a slave without
+being ejected from the society.[A] In fact, the general feeling was
+against slavery; but to avoid trouble, the people hesitate to give
+publicity to their feelings. Were this done, slavery would soon come to
+an end. Great sacrifices are sometimes made by slaveholders to get rid
+of slavery. He went once to preach in the State of Ohio. He found there
+a little log house. Inside was a delicate woman, feeble and with white
+hands. She seemed wholly unaccustomed to work. Her husband had the same
+appearance of delicacy. They were very poor. How had they come into that
+state? They belonged to a slave State, where they had formerly possessed
+a little family of slaves. They had felt slavery to be wrong. They set
+them free, and with the remainder of their little property tried to get
+their living by farming; but like many similar cases, it had been one of
+martyrdom. The Professor then proceeded to make some very practical
+remarks on the character of the fugitive slave law, after which he said
+that the prosperity of Great Britain in a great measure resulted from
+the products of slave labor. American cotton was the chief support of
+the system. We must, both in Britain and America, get free-grown cotton,
+or slavery will not, at least for a long time to come, be abolished.
+What he would impress on the minds of Christians was unity in this great
+work. Let slaveholders be ever so much opposed to each other on other
+topics, they were unanimous in their endeavors to support slavery. But
+let the prayers of all Christians and the efforts of all Christians be
+united; and the system of oppression would speedily be destroyed
+forever.
+
+
+PUBLIC MEETING IN EDINBURGH--APRIL 20.
+
+THE LORD PROVOST rose, and stated that a number of letters of apology
+had been received from parties who had been invited to take part in the
+meeting, but who had been unable to attend. Among these he might
+mention Professor Blackie, the Rev. Mr. Gilfillan, of Dundee, Rev. J.
+Begg, D.D., the Earl of Buchan, Dr. Candlish, and Sir W. Gibson Craig,
+all of whom expressed their regret that they could not be present. One
+of them, he observed, was from a gentleman who had long taken an
+interest in the antislavery cause,--Lord Cockburn,[B]--and his note was
+so warm, and sympathetic, and hearty on the subject about which they had
+met, that he could not resist the temptation of reading it. It
+proceeded, "I regret, that owing to my being obliged to be in Ayrshire,
+it will not be in my power to join you in the expression of respect and
+gratitude to Mrs. Stowe; she deserves all the honor that can be done
+her; she has done more for humanity than was ever accomplished before by
+a single book of fiction. [Cheers.] It did not require much to raise our
+British feeling against slavery, but by showing us what substantially
+are facts, and the necessary tendency of this evil in its most mitigated
+form, she has greatly strengthened the ground on which this feeling
+rests. Her work may have no immediate or present influence on the states
+of her own country that are now unhappily under the curse, and may
+indeed for a time aggravate its horrors; but it is a prodigious
+accession to the constantly accumulating mass of views and evidence,
+which by reason of its force must finally prevail." [Cheers.] The Lord
+Provost proceeded to say, that they had now assembled chiefly to do
+honor to their distinguished guest, Mrs. Stowe. [Applause.] They had
+met, however, also to express their interest in the cause which it had
+been the great effort of her life to promote--the abolition of slavery.
+They took advantage of her presence, and the effect which was produced
+on the public mind of this country, to reiterate their love for the
+abolition cause, and their detestation of slavery. Before they were
+aware that Mrs. Stowe was to grace the city of Edinburgh with her
+presence, a committee had been organized to collect a penny
+offering--the amount to be contributed in pence, and other small sums,
+from the masses of this country--to be presented to her as some means of
+mitigating, through her instrumentality, the horrors of slavery, as they
+might come under her observation. It was intended at once as a mark of
+their esteem for her, of their confidence in her, of their conviction
+that she would do what was right in the cause, and, at the same time, as
+an evidence of the detestation in which the system of slavery was held
+in this free country. That penny offering now, he was happy to say, by
+the spontaneous efforts of the inhabitants of this and other towns,
+amounted to a considerable sum; to certain gentlemen in Edinburgh
+forming the committee the whole credit of this organization was due, and
+he believed one of their number, the Rev. Mr. Ballantyne, would present
+the offering that evening, and tell them all about it. He would not,
+therefore, forestall what he would have to say on the subject. They were
+also to have the pleasure of presenting Mrs. Stowe with an address from
+the committee in this city, which would be presented by another reverend
+friend, who would be introduced at the proper time. As there would be a
+number of speakers to follow during the evening, his own remarks must
+be exceedingly short; but he could not resist the temptation of saying
+how happy he felt at being once more in the midst of a great meeting in
+the city of Edinburgh, for the purpose of expressing their detestation
+of the system of slavery. They could appeal to their brethren in the
+United States with clean hands, because they had got rid of the
+abomination themselves; they could therefore say to them, through their
+friends who were now present, on their return home, and through the
+press, which would carry their sentiments even to the slave states--they
+could say to them that they had washed their own hands of the evil at
+the largest pecuniary sacrifice that was ever made by any nation for the
+promotion of any good cause. [Loud applause.] Some parties said that
+they should not speak harshly of the Americans, because they were full
+of prejudice with regard to the system which they had seen growing up
+around them. He said so too with all his heart; he joined in the
+sentiment that they should not speak harshly, but they might fairly
+express their opinion of the system with which their American friends
+were surrounded, and in which he thought all who supported it were
+guilty participators. [Hear, hear!] They could denounce the wickedness,
+they could tell them that they thought it was their duty to put an end
+to it speedily. The cause of the abolition of slavery in our own
+colonies long hung without any visible progress, notwithstanding the
+efforts of many distinguished men, who did all they could to mitigate
+some of its more prominent evils; and yet, so long as they never struck
+at the root, the progress which they made was almost insensible. They
+knew how many men had spent their energies, and some of them their
+lives, in attempting to forward the cause; but how little effect was
+produced for the first half of the present century! The city of
+Edinburgh had always, he was glad to say, taken a deep interest in the
+cause; it was one of the very first to take up the ground of total and
+entire abolition. [Cheers.] A predecessor of his own in the civic chair
+was so kind as to preside at a meeting held in Edinburgh twenty-three
+years ago, in which a very decided step was proposed to be taken in
+advance, and a resolution was moved by the then Dean of Faculty, to the
+effect that on the following first of January, 1831, all the children
+born of slave parents in our colonies were from that date to be declared
+free. That was thought a great and most important movement by the
+promoters of the cause. There were, however, parties at that crowded
+meeting who thought that even this was a mere expedient--that it was a
+mere pruning of the branches, leaving the whole system intact. One of
+these was the late Dr. Andrew Thomson--[cheers]--who had the courage to
+propose that the meeting should at once declare for total and immediate
+abolition, which proposal was seconded by another excellent citizen, Mr.
+Dickie. Dr. Thomson replied to some of the arguments which had been put
+forward, to the effect that the total abolition might possibly occasion
+bloodshed; and he said that, even if that did follow, it was no fault of
+his, and that he still stuck to the principle, which he considered right
+under any circumstances. The chairman, thereupon, threatened to leave
+the chair on account of the unnecessarily strong language used, and when
+the sentiments were reiterated by Mr. Dickie, he actually bolted, and
+left the meeting, which was thrown into great confusion. A few days
+afterwards, however, another meeting was held--one of the largest and
+most effective that had been ever held in Edinburgh--at which were
+present Mr. John Shank More in the chair, the Rev. Dr. Thomson, Rev. Dr
+Gordon, Dr. Ritchie, Mr. Muirhead, the Rev. Mr. Buchanan of North Leith,
+Mr. J. Wigham, Jr., Dr. Greville, &c. The Lord Provost proceeded to read
+extracts from the speeches made at the meeting, showing that the
+sentiments of the inhabitants of Edinburgh, so far back as 1830, as
+uttered by some of its most distinguished men,--not violent agitators,
+but ministers of the gospel, promoters of peace and order, and every
+good and every benevolent purpose,--were in favor of the immediate and
+total abolition of slavery in our colonies. He referred especially to
+the speech of Dr. Andrew Thomson on this occasion, from which he read
+the following extract: "But if the argument is forced upon me to
+accomplish this great object, that there must be violence, let it come,
+for it will soon pass away--let it come and rage its little hour, since
+it is to be succeeded by lasting freedom, and prosperity, and happiness.
+Give me the hurricane rather than the pestilence. Give me the hurricane,
+with its thunders, and its lightnings, and its tempests--give me the
+hurricane, with its partial and temporary devastations, awful though
+they be--give me the hurricane, which brings along with it purifying,
+and healthful, and salutary effects--give me the hurricane rather than
+the noisome pestilence, whose path is never crossed, whose silence is
+never disturbed, whose progress is never arrested by one sweeping blast
+from the heavens--which walks peacefully and sullenly through the length
+and breadth of the land, breathing poison into every heart, and carrying
+havoc into every home--enervating all that is strong, defacing all that
+is beautiful, and casting its blight over the fairest and happiest
+scenes of human life--and which from day to day, and from year to year,
+with intolerant and interminable malignity, sends its thousands and tens
+of thousands of hapless victims into the ever-yawning and
+never-satisfied grave!"--[Loud and long applause.] The experience which
+they had had, that all the dangers, all the bloodshed and violence which
+were threatened, were merely imaginary, and that none of these evils had
+come upon them although slavery had been totally abolished by us,
+should, he thought, be an encouragement to their American friends to go
+home and tell their countrymen that in this great city the views now put
+forward were advocated long ago--that the persons who now held them said
+the same years ago of the disturbances and the evils which would arise
+from pressing the question of immediate and total abolition--that the
+same kind of arguments and the same predictions of evil were uttered in
+England--and although she had not the experience, although she had not
+the opportunity of pointing to the past, and saying the evil had not
+come in such a case, still, even then, they were willing to face the
+evil, to stick to the righteous principle, and to say, come what would,
+justice must be done to the slave, and slavery must be wholly and
+immediately abolished. [Cheers.] He had said so much on the question of
+slavery, because he was very sure it would be much more agreeable to
+their modest and retiring and distinguished guest that one should speak
+about any other thing than about herself. Uncle Tom's Cabin needed no
+recommendation from him. [Loud cheers.] It was the most extraordinary
+book, he thought, that had ever been published; no book had ever got
+into the same circulation; none had ever produced a tithe of the
+impression which it had produced within a given time. It was worth all
+the proslavery press of America put together. The horrors of slavery
+were not merely described, but they were actually pictured to the eye.
+They were seen and understood fully; formerly they were mere dim
+visions, about which there was great difference of opinion; some saw
+them as in a mist, and others more clearly; but now every body saw and
+understood slavery. Every body in this great city, if they had a voice
+in the matter, would be prepared to say that they wished slavery to be
+utterly extinguished. [Loud cheers.]
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE then rose, and was greeted with loud cheers. He begged
+to read the following note from Mrs. Stowe, in acknowledgment of the
+honor:--
+
+"I accept these congratulations and honors, and this offering, which it
+has pleased Scotland to bestow on me, not for any thing which I have
+said or done, not as in any sense acknowledging that they are or can be
+deserved, but with heartfelt, humble gratitude to God, as tokens of
+mercy to a cause most sacred and most oppressed. In the name of a people
+despised and rejected of men--in the name of men of sorrows acquainted
+with grief, from whom the faces of all the great and powerful of the
+earth have been hid--in the name of oppressed and suffering humanity, I
+thank you. The offering given is the dearer to me, and the more hopeful,
+that it is literally the penny offering, given by thousands on
+thousands, a penny at a time. When, in travelling through your country,
+aged men and women have met me with such fervent blessings, little
+children gathered round me with such loving eyes--when honest hands,
+hard with toil, have been stretched forth with such hearty welcome--when
+I have seen how really it has come from the depths of the hearts of the
+common people, and know, as I truly do, what prayers are going up with
+it from the humblest homes of Scotland, I am encouraged. I believe it is
+God who inspires this feeling, and I believe God never inspired it in
+vain. I feel an assurance that the Lord hath looked down from heaven to
+hear the groaning of the prisoner, and according to the greatness of his
+power, to loose those that are appointed to die. In the human view,
+nothing can be more hopeless than this cause; all the wealth, and all
+the power, and all the worldly influence is against it. But here in
+Scotland, need we tell the children of the Covenant, that the Lord on
+high is mightier than all human power? Here, close by the spot where
+your fathers signed that Covenant, in an hour when Scotland's cause was
+equally poor and depressed--here, by the spot where holy martyrs sealed
+it with their blood, it will neither seem extravagance nor enthusiasm to
+say to the children of such parents, that for the support of this cause,
+we look, not to the things that are seen, but to the things that are not
+seen; to that God, who, in the face of all worldly power, gave liberty
+to Scotland, in answer to your fathers' prayers. Our trust is in Jesus
+Christ, and in the power of the Holy Ghost, and in the promise that he
+shall reign till he hath put all things under his feet. There are those
+faithless ones, who, standing at the grave of a buried humanity, tell us
+that it is vain to hope for our brother, because he hath lain in the
+grave three days already. We turn from them to the face of Him who has
+said, 'Thy brother shall rise again.' There was a time when our great
+High Priest, our Brother, yet our Lord, lay in the grave three days; and
+the governors and powers of the earth made it as sure as they could,
+seeding the stone and setting a watch. But a third day came, and an
+earthquake, and an angel. So shall it be to the cause of the oppressed;
+though now small and despised, we are watchers at the sepulchre, like
+Mary and the trusting women; we can sit through the hours of darkness.
+We are watching the sky for the golden streaks of dawning, and we
+believe that the third day will surely come. For Christ our Lord, being
+raised from the dead, dieth no more; and he has pledged his word that he
+shall not fail nor be discouraged till he have set judgment on the
+earth. He shall deliver the poor when He crieth, the needy, and him that
+hath no helper. The night is far spent--the day is at hand. The
+universal sighing of humanity in all countries, the whole creation
+groaning and travailing in pain together--the earnest expectation of the
+creature waiting for the manifestation of the sons of God--show that the
+day is not distant when he will break every yoke, and let the oppressed
+go free. And whatever we are able to do for this sacred cause, let us
+cast it where the innumerable multitude of heaven cast their crowns, at
+the feet of the Lamb, saying, 'Worthy is the Lamb that was slain to
+receive power, and riches, and wisdom, and strength, and honor, and
+glory, and blessings.'"
+
+The Rev. Professor then continued. "My Lord Provost, Ladies and
+Gentlemen: This cause, to be successful, must be carried on in a
+religious spirit, with a deep sense of our dependence on God, and with
+that love for our fellow-men which the gospel requires. It is because I
+think I have met this spirit since I reached the shores of Great
+Britain, in those who have taken an interest in the cause, that I feel
+encouraged to hope that the expression of your feeling will be effective
+on the hearts of Christians on the other side of the Atlantic. There are
+Christians there as sincere, as hearty, and as earnest, as any on the
+face of the earth. They have looked at this subject, and been troubled;
+they have hardly known what to do, and their hearts have been
+discouraged. They have almost turned away their eyes from it, because
+they have scarcely dared encounter it, the difficulties appeared to them
+so great. Wrong cannot always receive the support of Christians; wrong
+must be done away with; and what must be--what God requires to be--that
+certainly will be. Now, in this age, man is every where beginning to
+regard the sufferings of his fellow-man as his own. There is an interest
+felt in man, as man, which was not felt in preceding ages. The
+facilities of communication are bringing all nations in contact, and
+whatever wrong exists in any part of the world, is every where felt.
+There are wrongs and sufferings every where; but those to which we are
+accustomed, we look upon with most indifference, because being
+accustomed to them, we do not feel their enormity. You feel the
+enormity of slavery more than we do, because you are not immediately
+interested, and regard it at a distance. We regard some of the wrongs
+that exist in the old world with more sensibility than you can regard
+them, because we are not accustomed to them, and you are. Therefore, in
+the spirit of Christian love, it belongs to Christian men to speak to
+each other with great fidelity. It has been said that you know little or
+nothing about slavery. O, happy men, that you are ignorant of its
+enormities. [Hear, hear!] But you do know something about it. You know
+as much about it as you know of the widow-burning in India, or the
+cannibalism in the Fejee Islands, or any of those crimes and sorrows of
+paganism, that induced you to send forth your missionaries. You know it
+is a great wrong, and a terrible obstacle to the progress of the gospel;
+and that is enough for you to know to induce you to act. You have as
+much knowledge as ever induced a Christian community in any part of the
+world to exert an influence in any other part of the world. Slavery is a
+relic of paganism, of barbarism; it must be removed by Christianity; and
+if the light of Christianity shines on it clearly, it certainly will
+remove it. There are thousands of hearts in the United States that
+rejoice in your help. Whatever expressions of impatience and petulance
+you may hear, be assured that these expressions are not the heart of the
+great body of the people. [Cheers.] A large proportion of that country
+is free from slavery. There is an area of freedom ten times larger than
+Great Britain in territory.[C] [Cheers.] But all the power over the
+slave is in the hands of the slaveholder. You had a power over the
+slaveholder by your national legislature; our national legislature has
+no power over the slaveholder. All the legislation that can in that
+country be brought to bear for the slave, is legislation by the
+slaveholders themselves. There is where the difficulty lies. It is
+altogether by persuasion, Christian counsel, Christian sympathy,
+Christian earnestness, that any good can be effected for the slave. The
+conscience of the people is against the system--the conscience of the
+people, even in the slaveholding states; and if we can but get at the
+conscience without exciting prejudice, it will tend greatly towards the
+desired effect. But this appeal to the conscience must be
+unintermittent, constant. Your hands must not be weary, your prayers
+must not be discontinued; but every day and every hour should we be
+doing something towards the object. It is sometimes said, Americans who
+resist slavery are traitors to their country. No; those who would
+support freedom are the only true friends of their country. Our fathers
+never intended slavery to be identified with the government of the
+United States; but in the temptations of commerce the evil was
+overlooked; and how changed for the worse has become the public
+sentiment even within the last thirty or forty years! The enormous
+increase in the consumption of cotton has raised enormously the market
+value of slaves, and arrayed both avarice and political ambition in
+defence of slavery. Instruct the conscience, and produce free cotton,
+and this will be like Cromwell's exhortation to his soldiers, '_Trust
+in God, and keep your powder dry_.'" [Continued cheers.]
+
+THE REV. DR. R. LEE then said: "I am quite sure that every individual
+here responds cordially to those sentiments of respect and gratitude
+towards our honored guest which have been so well expressed by the Lord
+Provost and the other gentlemen who have addressed us. We think that
+this lady has not only laid us under a great obligation by giving us one
+of the most delightful books in the English language, but that she has
+improved us as men and as Christians, that she has taught us the value
+of our privileges, and made us more sensible than we were before of the
+obligation which lies upon us to promote every good work. I have been
+requested to say a few words on the degradation of American slavery; but
+I feel, in the presence of the gentleman who last addressed you, and of
+those who are still to address you, that it would be almost presumption
+in me to enter on such a subject. It is impossible to speak or to think
+of the subject of slavery without feeling that there is a double
+degradation in the matter; for, in the first place, the slave is a man
+made in the image of God--God's image cut in ebony, as old Thomas Fuller
+quaintly but beautifully said; and what right have we to reduce him to
+the image of a brute, and make property of him? We esteem drunkenness as
+a sin. Why is it a sin? Because it reduces that which was made in the
+image of God to the image of a brute. We say to the drunkard, 'You are
+guilty of a sacrilege, because you reduce that which God made in his own
+image "into the image of an irrational creature."' Slavery does the very
+same. But there is not only a degradation committed as regards the
+slave--there is a degradation also committed against himself by him who
+makes him a slave, and who retains him in the position of a slave; for
+is it not one of the most commonplace of truths that we cannot do a
+wrong to a neighbor without doing a greater wrong to ourselves?--that we
+cannot injure him without also injuring ourselves yet more? I observe
+there is a certain class of writers in America who are fond of
+representing the feeling of this country towards America as one of
+jealousy, if not of hatred.. I think, my lord, that no American ever
+travelled in this country without being conscious at once that this is a
+total mistake--that this is a total misapprehension. I venture to say
+that there is no nation on the face of the earth in which we feel half
+so much interest, or towards which we feel the tenth part of the
+affection, which we do towards our brethren in the United States of
+America. And what is more than that--there is no nation towards which we
+feel one half so much admiration, and for which we feel half so much
+respect, as we do for the people of the United States of America.
+[Cheers.] Why, sir, how can it be otherwise? How is it possible that it
+should be the reverse? Are they not our bone and our flesh? and their
+character, whatever it is, is it any thing more than our own, a little
+exaggerated, perhaps? Their virtues and their vices, their faults and
+their excellences, are just the virtues and the vices, the faults and
+the excellences, of that old respectable freeholder, John Bull, from
+whom they are descended. We are not much surprised that a nation which
+are slaves themselves should make other men slaves. This cannot very
+much surprise us: but we are both surprised and we are deeply grieved,
+that a nation which has conceived so well the idea of freedom--a nation
+which has preached the doctrines of freedom with such boldness and such
+fulness--a nation which has so boldly and perfectly realized its idea of
+freedom in every other respect--should in this only instance have sunk
+so completely below its own idea, and forgetting the rights of one class
+of their fellow-creatures, should have deprived them of freedom
+altogether. I say that our grief and our disapprobation of this in the
+case of our brethren in America arises very much from this, that in
+other respects we admire them so much, we are sorry that so noble a
+nation should allow a blot like this to remain upon its escutcheon. I am
+not ignorant--nobody can be ignorant--of the great difficulties which
+encompass the solution of this question in America. It is vain for us to
+shut our eyes to it. There can be no doubt whatever that great
+sacrifices will require to be made in order to get rid of this great
+evil. But the Americans are a most ingenious people; they are full of
+inventions of all sorts, from the invention of a machine for protecting
+our feet from the water, to a machine for making ships go by means of
+heated air; from the one to the other the whole field of discovery is
+occupied by their inventive genius. There is not an article in common
+use among us but bears some stamp of America. We rise in the morning,
+and before we are dressed we have had half a dozen American articles in
+our hands. And during the day, as we pass through the streets, articles
+of American invention meet us every where. In short, the ingenuity of
+the people is proclaimed all over the world. And there can be no doubt
+that the moment this great, this ingenious people finds that slavery is
+both an evil and a sin, their ingenuity will be successfully exerted in
+discovering some invention for preventing its abolition from ruining
+them altogether. [Cheers.] No doubt their ingenuity will be equal to the
+occasion; and I may take the liberty of adding, that their ingenuity in
+that case will find even a richer reward than it has done in those other
+inventions which have done them so much honor, and been productive of so
+much profit. I say, that sacrifices must be made; there can be no doubt
+about that; but I would also observe, that the longer the evil is
+permitted to continue, the greater and more tremendous will become the
+sacrifice which will be needed to put an end to it; for all history
+proves that a nation encumbered, with slavery is surrounded with danger.
+[Applause.] Has the history of antiquity been written in vain? Does it
+not teach us that not only domestic and social pollutions are the
+inevitable results, but does it not teach us also that political
+insecurity and political revolutions as certainly slumber beneath the
+institution of slavery as fireworks at the basis of Mount AEtna?
+[Cheers.] It cannot but be so. Men no more than steam can be compressed
+without a tremendous revulsion; and let our brethren in America be sure
+of this, that the longer the day of reckoning is put off by them, the
+more tremendous at last that reckoning will Be." [Loud, applause.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In regard to this meeting at Edinburgh, there was a ridiculous story
+circulated and variously commented on in certain newspapers of the
+United States, that _the American flag was there exhibited, insulted,
+torn, and mutilated_. Certain religious papers took the lead in
+propagating the slander, which, so for as I know or can learn, _had no
+foundation_, unless it be that, in the arranging of the flag around its
+staff, the stars might have been more distinctly visible than the
+stripes. The walls were profusely adorned with drapery, and there were
+numerous flags disposed in festoons. Truly a wonderful thing to make a
+story of, and then parade it in the newspapers from Maine to Texas,
+beginning in Philadelphia!
+
+
+PUBLIC MEETING IN ABERDEEN--APRIL 21.
+
+ADDRESS OF THE CITIZENS.
+
+MRS H. BEECHER STOWE.
+
+MADAM: The citizens of Aberdeen have much pleasure in embracing the
+opportunity now afforded them of expressing at once their esteem for
+yourself personally, and their interest in the cause of which you have
+been the distinguished advocate.
+
+While they would, not render a blind homage to mere genius, however
+exalted, they consider genius such as yours, directed by Christian
+principle, as that which, for the welfare of humanity, cannot be too
+highly or too fervently honored.
+
+Without depreciating the labors of the various advocates of slave
+emancipation who have appeared from time to time on both sides of the
+Atlantic, they may conscientiously award to you the praise of having
+brought about the present universal and enthusiastic sentiment in regard
+to the slavery which exists in America.
+
+The galvanic battery may be arranged and charged, every plate, wire, and
+fluid being in its appropriate place; but, until some hand shall bring
+together the extremities of the conducting medium, in vain might we
+expect to elicit the latent fire.
+
+Every heart may throb with the feeling of benevolence, and every mind
+respond to the sentiment that man, in regard to man, should be free and
+equal; but it is the province of genius such as yours to give unity to
+the universal, and find utterance for the felt.
+
+When society has been prepared for some momentous movement or moral
+reformation, so that the hidden thoughts of the people want only an
+interpreter, the thinking community an organ, and suffering humanity a
+champion, distinguished is the honor belonging to the individual in whom
+all these requisites are found combined.
+
+To you has been assigned by Providence the important task of educing the
+latent emotions of humanity, and waking the music that slumbered in the
+chords of the universal human heart, till it has pealed forth in one
+deep far rolling and harmonious anthem, of which the heavenly burden is,
+"Liberty to the captive, and the opening of the prison to them that are
+bound!"
+
+The production of your accomplished pen, which has already called forth
+such unqualified eulogy from almost every land where Anglo-Saxon
+literature finds access, and created so sudden and fervent an excitement
+on the momentous subject of American slavery, has nowhere been hailed
+with a more cordial welcome, or produced more salutary effects, than in
+the city of Aberdeen.
+
+Though long ago imbued, with antislavery principles and interested in
+the progress of liberty in every part of the world, our community, like
+many others, required such information, suggestions, and appeals as your
+valuable work contains in one great department of slavery, in order that
+their interest might be turned into a specific direction, and their
+principles reduced, to combined practical effort.
+
+Already they have esteemed it a privilege to engage with some activity
+in the promotion of the interests of the fugitive slave; and they shall
+henceforth regard with a deeper interest than ever the movements of
+their American brethren in this matter, until there exists among them no
+slavery from which to flee.
+
+While they participate in your abhorrence of slavery in the American
+states, they trust they need scarcely assure you that they participate
+also in your love for the American people.
+
+It is in proportion as they love that nation, attached to them by so
+many ties, that they lament the existence of a system which, so long as
+it exists, must bring odium upon the national character, as it cannot
+fail to enfeeble and impair their best social institutions.
+
+They believe it to be a maxim that man cannot hold his fellow-man in
+slavery without being himself to some extent enslaved. And of this the
+censorship of the press, together with the expurgatorial indices of
+various religious societies in the Southern States of America, furnish
+ample corroboration.
+
+It is hoped that your own nation may speedily be directed to recognize
+you as its best friend, for having stood forth in the spirit of true
+patriotism to advocate the claims of a large portion of your countrymen,
+and to seek the removal of an evil which has done much to neutralize the
+moral influence of your country's best (and otherwise free)
+institutions.
+
+Accept, then, from the community of Aberdeen their congratulations on
+the high literary fame which you have by a single effort so deservedly
+acquired, and their grateful acknowledgments for your advocacy of a
+cause in which the best interests of humanity are involved.
+
+Signed in name and by appointment of a public meeting of the citizens of
+Aberdeen within the County Buildings, this 21st April, 1853, A.D.
+
+GEO. HESSAY,
+
+_Provost of Aberdeen_.
+
+
+PUBLIC MEETING IN DUNDEE--APRIL 22.
+
+
+MR. GILFILLAN, who was received with great applause, said he had been
+intrusted by the Committee of the Ladies' Antislavery Association to
+present the following address to Mrs. Stowe, which he would read to the
+meeting:--
+
+"MADAM: We, the ladies of the Dundee Antislavery Association, desire to
+add our feeble voices to the acclamations of a world, conscious that
+your fame and character need no testimony from us. We are less anxious
+to honor you than to prove that our appreciation and respect are no less
+sincere and no less profound than those of the millions in other places
+and other lands, whom you have instructed, improved, delighted, and
+thrilled. We beg permission to lay before you the expressions of a
+gratitude and an enthusiasm in some measure commensurate with your
+transcendent literary merit and moral worth. We congratulate you on the
+success of the _chef-d'oeuvre_ of your genius, a success altogether
+unparalleled, and in all probability never to be paralleled in the
+history of literature. We congratulate you still more warmly on that
+nobility and benevolence of nature which made you from childhood the
+friend of the unhappy slave, and led you to accumulate unconsciously the
+materials for the immortal tale of Uncle Tom's Cabin. We congratulate
+you in having in that tale supported with matchless eloquence and pathos
+the cause of the crushed, the forgotten, the injured, of those who had
+no help of man at all, and who had even been blasphemously taught by
+professed ministers of the gospel of mercy that Heaven too was opposed
+to their liberation, and had blotted them out from the catalogue of man.
+We recognize, too, with delight, the spirit of enlightened and
+evangelical piety which breathes through your work, and serves to
+confute the calumny that none but infidels are interested in the cause
+of abolition--a calumny which cuts at Christianity with a yet sharper
+edge than at abolition, but which you have proved to be a foul and
+malignant falsehood. We congratulate you not only on the richness of the
+laurels which you have won, but on the dignity, the meekness, and the
+magnanimity with which these laurels have been worn. We hail in you our
+most gifted sister in the great cause of liberty--we bid you warmly
+welcome to our city, and we pray Almighty God, the God of the oppressed,
+to pour his selectest blessings on your head, and to spare your
+invaluable life, till yours, and ours, and others' efforts for the cause
+of abolition are crowned with success, and till the shouts of a
+universal jubilee shall proclaim that in all quarters of the globe the
+African is free."
+
+The address was handed to Mrs. Stowe amid great applause. MR. GILFILLAN
+continued: "In addition to the address which I have now read, I have
+been requested to add a few remarks; and in making these I cannot but
+congratulate Dundee on the fact that Mrs. Stowe has visited it, and that
+she has had a reception worthy of her distinguished merits. [Applause.]
+It is not Dundee alone that is present here to-night: it is
+Forfarshire, Fifeshire, and I may also add, Perthshire:--that are here
+to do honor to themselves in doing honor to our illustrious guest.
+[Cheers.] There are assembled here representatives of the general
+feeling that boils in the whole land--not from our streets alone, but
+from our country valleys--from our glens and our mountains O! I wish
+that Mrs. Stowe would but spare time to go herself and study that
+enthusiasm amid its own mountain recesses, amid the uplands and the
+friths, and the wild solitudes of our own unconquered and unconquerable
+land. She would see scenery there worthy of that pencil which has
+painted so powerfully the glories of the Mississippi; ay, and she would
+find her name known and reverenced in every hamlet, and see copies of
+Uncle Tom's Cabin in the shepherd's shieling, beside Bunyan's Pilgrim's
+Progress, the Life of Sir William Wallace, Rob Roy, and the Gaelic
+Bible. I saw copies of it carried by travellers last autumn among the
+gloomy grandeurs of Glencoe, and, as Coleridge once said when he saw
+Thomson's Seasons lying in a Welsh wayside inn, 'That is true fame,' I
+thought this was fame truer still. [Applause.] It is too late in the day
+to criticize Uncle Tom's Cabin, or to speculate on its unprecedented
+history--a history which seems absolutely magical. Why, you are reminded
+of Aladdin's lamp, and of the palace that was reared by genii in one
+night. Mrs. Stowe's genius has done a greater wonder than this--it has
+reared in a marvellously short time a structure which, unlike that
+Arabian fabric, is a reality, and shall last forever. [Applause.] She
+must not be allowed, to depreciate herself, and to call her glorious
+book a mere 'bubble.' Such a bubble there never was before. I wish we
+had ten thousand such bubbles. [Applause.] If it had been a bubble it
+would have broken long ago. 'Man,' says Jeremy Taylor, 'is a bubble.'
+Yea, but he is an immortal one. And such an immortal bubble is Uncle
+Tom's Cabin; it can only with man expire; and yet a year ago not ten
+individuals in this vast assembly had ever heard of its author's name.
+[Applause.] At its artistic merits we may well marvel--to find in a
+small volume the descriptive power of a Scott, the humor of a Dickens,
+the keen, observing glance of a Thackeray, the pathos of a Richardson or
+Mackenzie, combined with qualities of earnestness, simplicity, humanity,
+and womanhood peculiar to the author herself. But there are three things
+which, strike me as peculiarly remarkable about Uncle Tom's Cabin: it is
+the work of an American--of a woman--and of an evangelical Christian.
+[Cheers.] We have long been accustomed to despise American literature--I
+mean as compared with our own. I have heard eminent _litterateurs_ say,
+'Pshaw! the Americans have no national literature.' It was thought that
+they lived entirely on plunder--the plunder of poor slaves, and of poor
+British authors. [Loud cheers.] Their own works, when, they came among
+us, were treated either with contempt or with patronizing wonder--yes,
+the 'Sketch Book' was a very good book to be an American's. To parody
+two lines of Pope, we
+
+  Admired such wisdom in a Yankee shape,
+  And showed an Irving as they show an ape.'
+
+[Loud cheers.] And yet, strange to tell, not only of late have we been
+almost deluged with editions of new and excellent American writers, but
+the most popular book of the century has appeared on the west side of
+the Atlantic. Let us hear no more of the poverty of American brains, or
+the barrenness of American literature. Had it produced only Uncle Tom's
+Cabin, it had evaded contempt just as certainly as Don Quixote, had
+there been no other product of the Spanish mind, would have rendered it
+forever illustrious. It is the work of a woman, too! None but a woman
+could have written it. There are in the human mind springs at once
+delicate and deep, which only the female genius can understand, or the
+female finger touch. Who but a female could have created the gentle Eva,
+painted the capricious and selfish Marie St. Clair, or turned loose a
+Topsy upon the wondering world? [Loud and continued cheering.] And it is
+to my mind exceedingly delightful, and it must be humiliating to our
+opponents, to remember that the severest stroke to American slavery has
+been given by a woman's hand. [Loud cheers.] It was the smooth stone
+from the brook which, sent from the hand of a youthful David, overthrew
+Goliath of Gath; but I am less reminded of this than of another incident
+in Scripture history. When the robber and oppressor of Israel,
+Abimelech, who had slain his brethren, was rushing against a tower,
+whither his enemies had fled, we are told that 'a certain woman cast a
+piece of a millstone upon Abimelech's head, and all to break his skull,'
+and that he cried hastily to the young man, his armor-bearer, and said
+unto him, 'Draw thy sword, and slay me, that men say not of me, A woman
+slew him.' It is a parable of our present position. Mrs. Stowe has
+thrown a piece of millstone, sharp and strong, at the skull of the giant
+abomination of her country; he is reeling in his death pangs, and, in
+the fury of his despair and shame, is crying, but crying in vain, 'Say
+not, A woman slew me!' [Applause.] But the world shall say, 'A woman
+slew him,' or, at least, 'gave him the first blow, and drove him to
+despair and suicide.' [Cheers.] Lastly, it is the work of an evangelical
+Christian; and the piety of the book has greatly contributed to its
+power. It has forever wiped away the vile calumny, that all who love
+their African brother hate their God and Savior. I look, indeed, on Mrs.
+Stowe's volume, not only as a noble contribution to the cause of
+emancipation, but to the general cause of Christianity. It is an olive
+leaf in a dove's mouth, testifying that the waters of scepticism, which
+have rolled more fearfully far in America than here,--and no wonder, if
+the Christianity of America in general is a slaveholding, man-stealing,
+soul-murdering Christianity--that they are abating, and that genuine
+liberty and evangelical religion are soon to clasp hands, and to smile
+in unison on the ransomed, regenerated, and truly 'United States.' [Loud
+and reiterated applause.]"
+
+
+ADDRESS OF THE STUDENTS OF GLASGOW UNIVERSITY--APRIL 25.
+
+This address is particularly gratifying on account of its recognition of
+the use of intoxicating drinks as an evil analogous to slaveholding, and
+to be eradicated by similar means. The two reforms are in all respects
+similar movements, to be promoted in the same manner and with the same
+spirit.
+
+MRS. HARRIET BEECHER STOWE.
+
+MADAM: The Committee of the Glasgow University Abstainers' Society,
+representing nearly one hundred students, embrace the opportunity which
+you have so kindly afforded them, of expressing their high esteem for
+you, and their appreciation of your noble efforts in behalf of the
+oppressed. They cordially join in the welcome with which you have been
+so justly received on these shores, and earnestly hope and pray that
+your visit may be beneficial to your own health, and tend greatly to the
+furtherance of Christian philanthropy.
+
+The committee have had their previous convictions confirmed, and their
+hearts deeply affected, by your vivid and faithful delineations of
+slavery; and they desire to join with thousands on both sides of the
+Atlantic, who offer fervent thanksgiving to God for having endowed you
+with those rare gifts, which have qualified you for producing the
+noblest testimony against slavery, next to the Bible, which the world
+has ever received.
+
+While giving all the praise to God, from whom cometh every good and
+perfect gift, they may be excused for mentioning three characteristics
+of your writings regarding slavery, which awakened their admiration--a
+sensibility befitting the anguish of suffering millions; the graphic
+power which presents to view the complex and hideous system, stripped of
+all its deceitful disguises; and the moral courage that was required to
+encounter the monster, and drag it forth to the gaze and the execration
+of mankind.
+
+The committee feel humbled in being called to confess and deplore, as
+existing among ourselves, another species of slavery, not less ruinous
+in its tendency, and not less criminal in the sight of God--we mean the
+slavery by strong drink. We feel too much ashamed of the sad preeminence
+which these nations have acquired in regard to this vice to take any
+offence at the reproaches cast upon us from across the Atlantic. Such
+smiting shall not break our head. We are anxious to profit by it. Yet
+when it is used as an argument to justify slavery, or to silence our
+respectful but earnest remonstrances, we take exception to the
+parallelism on which these arguments are made to rest. We do not justify
+our slavery. We do not try to defend it from the Scriptures. We do not
+make laws to uphold it. The unhappy victims of our slavery have all
+forged and riveted their own fetters. We implore them to forbear; but,
+alas! in many cases without success. We invite them to be free, and
+offer our best assistance to undo their bonds. When a fugitive slave
+knocks at our door, escaping from a cruel master, we try to accost him
+in the spirit or in the words of a well-known philanthropist, "Come in,
+brother, and get warm, and get thy breakfast." And when distinguished
+American philanthropists, who have done so much to undo the heavy
+burdens in their own land, come over to assist us, we hail their advent
+with rejoicing, and welcome them as benefactors. We are well aware that
+a corresponding feeling would be manifested in the United States by a
+portion, doubtless a large portion, of the population; but certainly not
+by those who justify or palliate their own oppression by a reference to
+our lamentable intemperance.
+
+We rejoice, madam, to know that as abstainers we can claim an important
+place, pot only in your sympathies, but in your literary labors. We
+offer our hearty thanks for the valuable contributions you have already
+furnished in that momentous cause, and for the efforts of that
+distinguished family with which you are connected.
+
+We bear our testimony to the mighty impulse imparted to the public mind
+by the extensive circulation of those memorable sermons which your
+honored father gave to Europe, as well as to America, more than
+twenty-five years ago. It will be pleasing to him to know that the force
+of his arguments is felt in British universities to the present time,
+and that not only students in augmenting numbers, but learned
+professors, acknowledge their cogency and yield to their power.
+
+Permit us to add that a movement has already begun, in an influential
+quarter in England, for the avowed purpose of combining the patriotism
+and Christianity of these nations in a strenuous agitation for the
+suppression, by the legislature, of the traffic in alcoholic drinks.
+
+In conclusion, the committee have only further to express their cordial
+thanks for your kindness in receiving their address, and their desire
+and prayer that you may be long spared to glorify God, by promoting the
+highest interests of man; that if it so please him, you may live to see
+the glorious fruit of your labors here cm earth, and that hereafter you
+may meet the blessed salutation, "Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one
+of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it unto me."
+
+NORMAN S. KERR, _Secretary_.
+
+STEWART BATES, _President_.
+
+GLASGOW, 25th April, 1853.
+
+
+LOUD MAYOR'S DINNER AT THE MANSION HOUSE, LONDON--MAY 2.
+
+MR. JUSTICE TALFOURD,[D] having spoken of the literature of England and
+America, alluded to two distinguished authors then present. The one was
+a lady, who had shed a lustre on the literature of America, and whose
+works were deeply engraven on every English heart. He spoke
+particularly of the consecration of so much genius to so noble a
+cause--the cause of humanity; and expressed the confident hope that the
+great American people would see and remedy the wrongs so vividly
+depicted. The learned judge, having paid an eloquent tribute to the
+works of Mr. Charles Dickens, concluded by proposing "Mr. Charles
+Dickens and the literature of the Anglo-Saxons."
+
+Mr. CHARLES DICKENS returned thanks. In referring to Mrs. H.B. Stowe, he
+observed that, in returning thanks, he could not forget he was in the
+presence of a stranger who was the authoress of a noble book, with a
+noble purpose. But he had no right to call her a stranger, for she would
+find a welcome in every English home.
+
+
+STAFFORD HOUSE RECEPTION--MAY 7.
+
+The DUKE OF SUTHERLAND having introduced Mrs. Stowe to the assembly, the
+following short address was read and presented to her by the EARL OF
+SHAFTESBURY:--
+
+"Madam: I am deputed by the Duchess of Sutherland, and the ladies of the
+two committees appointed to conduct 'The Address from the Women of
+England, to the Women of America on the Subject of Slavery,' to express
+the high gratification they feel in your presence amongst them this day.
+
+"The address, which has received considerably more than half a million
+of the signatures of the women of Great Britain and Ireland, they have
+already transmitted to the United States, consigning it to the care of
+those whom you have nominated as fit and zealous persons to undertake
+the charge in your absence.
+
+"The earnest desire of these committees, and, indeed, we may say of the
+whole kingdom, is to cultivate the most friendly and affectionate
+relations between the two countries; and we cannot but believe that we
+are fostering such a feeling when we avow our deep admiration of an
+American lady who, blessed by the possession of vast genius and
+intellectual powers, enjoys the still higher blessing, that she devotes
+them to the glory of God and the temporal and eternal interests of the
+human race."
+
+The following is a copy of the address to which Lord Shaftesbury makes
+reference:--
+
+"_The affectionate and Christian Address of many thousands of Women of
+Great Britain and Ireland to their Sisters, the Women of the United
+States of America_.
+
+"A common origin, a common faith, and, we sincerely believe, a common
+cause, urge us at the present moment to address you on the subject of
+that system of negro slavery which still prevails so extensively, and
+even under kindly-disposed masters, with such frightful results, in many
+of the vast regions of the western world.
+
+"We will not dwell on the ordinary topics--on the progress of
+civilization; on the advance of freedom every where; on the rights and
+requirements of the nineteenth century; but we appeal to you very
+seriously to reflect, and to ask counsel of God, how far such a state
+of things is in accordance with his holy word, the inalienable rights of
+immortal souls, and the pure and merciful spirit of the Christian
+religion.
+
+"We do not shut our eyes to the difficulties, nay, the dangers, that
+might beset the immediate abolition of that long-established system; we
+see and admit the necessity of preparation for so great an event; but in
+speaking of indispensable preliminaries, we cannot be silent on those
+laws of your country which, in direct contravention of God's own law,
+instituted in the time of man's innocency, deny, in effect, to the slave
+the sanctity of marriage, with all its joys, rights, and obligations;
+which separate, at the will of the master, the wife from the husband,
+and the children from the parents. Nor can we be silent on that awful
+system which, either by statute or by custom, interdicts to any race of
+men, or any portion of the human family, education in the truths of the
+gospel, and the ordinances of Christianity.
+
+"A remedy applied to these two evils alone would commence the
+amelioration of their sad condition. We appeal to you, then, as sisters,
+as wives, and as mothers, to raise your voices to your fellow-citizens,
+and your prayers to God, for the removal of this affliction from the
+Christian world. We do not say these things in a spirit of
+self-complacency, as though our nation were free from the guilt it
+perceives in others. We acknowledge with grief and shame our heavy share
+in this great sin. We acknowledge that our forefathers introduced, nay,
+compelled the adoption of slavery in those mighty colonies. We humbly
+confess it before Almighty God; and it is because we so deeply feel, and
+so unfeignedly avow, our own complicity, that we now venture to implore
+your aid to wipe away our common crime, and our common dishonor."
+
+
+CONGREGATIONAL UNION--MAY 13.
+
+The REV. JOHN ANGELL JAMES said, "I will only for one moment revert to
+the resolution.[E] It does equal honor to the head, and the heart, and
+the pen of the man who drew it. Beautiful in language, Christian in
+spirit, noble and generous in design, it is just such a resolution as I
+shall be glad to see emanate from the Congregational body, and find its
+way across the Atlantic to America. Sir, we speak most powerfully, when,
+though we speak firmly, we speak in kindness; and there is nothing in
+that resolution that can, by possibility, offend the most fastidious
+taste of any individual present, or any individual in the world, who
+takes the same views of the evil of slavery, in itself, as we do. [Hear,
+hear!] I shall not trespass long upon the attention of this audience,
+for we are all impatient to hear Professor Stowe speak in his own name,
+and in the name of that distinguished lady whom it is his honor and his
+happiness to call his wife. [Loud cheers.] His station and his
+acquirements, his usefulness in America, his connection with our body,
+his representation of the Pilgrim Fathers who bore the light of
+Christianity to his own country, all make him welcome here. [Cheers.]
+But he will not be surprised if it is not on his own account merely that
+we give him welcome, but also on account of that distinguished woman to
+whom so marked an allusion has already been made. To her, I am sure, we
+shall tender no praise, except the praise that comes to her from a
+higher source than ours; from One who has, by the testimony of her own
+conscience, echoing the voice from above, said to her, 'Well done, good
+and faithful servant.' Long, sir, may it be before the completion of the
+sentence; before the welcome shall be given to her, when she shall hear
+him say, 'Enter thou into the joy of thy Lord.' [Loud cheers.] But,
+though we praise her not, or praise with chastened language, we would
+say, Madam, we do thank you from the bottom of our hearts, [Hear, hear!
+and immense cheering,] for rising up to vindicate our outraged humanity;
+for rising up to expound the principles of our still nobler
+Christianity. For my own part, it is not merely as an exposition of the
+evils of slavery that makes me hail that wondrous volume to our country
+and to the world; but it is the living exposition of the principles of
+the gospel that it contains, and which will expound those principles to
+many an individual who would not hear them from our lips, nor read them
+from our pens. I maintain, that Uncle Tom is one of the most beautiful
+imbodiments of the Christian religion that was ever presented in this
+world. [Loud cheers.] And it is that which makes me take such delight in
+it. I rejoice that she killed him. [Laughter and cheers.] He must die
+under the slave lash--he must die, the martyr of slavery, and receive
+the crown of martyrdom from both worlds for his testimony to the truth.
+[Turning to Mrs. Stowe, Mr. James continued:] May the Lord God reward
+you for what you have done; we cannot, madam--we cannot do it. [Cheers.]
+We rejoice in the perfect assurance, in the full confidence, that the
+arrow which is to pierce the system of slavery to the heart has been
+shot, and shot by a female hand. Right home to the mark it will go.
+[Cheers.] It is true, the monster may groan and struggle for a long
+while yet; but die it will; die it must--under the potency of that book.
+[Loud cheers.] It never can recover. It will be your satisfaction,
+perhaps, in this world, madam, to see the reward of your labors. Heaven
+grant that your life may be prolonged, until such time as you see the
+reward of your labors in the striking off of the last fetter of the last
+slave that still pollutes the soil of your beloved country. [Cheers.]
+For beloved it is; and I should do dishonor to your patriotism if I did
+not say it--beloved it is; and you are prepared to echo the sentiments,
+by changing the terms, which we often hear in old England, and say,--
+
+  'America! with all thy faults I love thee still!'
+
+But still more intense will be my affection, and pure and devoted the
+ardor of my patriotism, when this greatest of all thine ills, this
+darkest of the blots upon thine escutcheon, shall be wiped out forever."
+[Loud applause.]
+
+The REV. PROFESSOR STOWE rose amid loud, and repeated cheers, and said,
+"It is extremely painful for me to speak on the subject of American
+slavery, and especially out of the borders of my own country. [Hear,
+hear!] I hardly know whether painful or pleasurable emotions
+predominate, when I look upon the audience to which I speak. I feel a
+very near affinity to the Congregationalists of England, and especially
+to the Congregationalists of London. [Cheers.] My ancestors were
+residents of London; at least, from the time of Edward III.; they lived
+in Cornhill and Leadenhall Street, and their bones lie buried in the old
+church of St. Andrew Under-Shaft; and, in the year 1632, on account of
+their nonconformity, they were obliged to seek refuge in the State of
+Massachusetts; and I have always felt a love and a veneration for the
+Congregational churches of England, more than for any other churches in
+any foreign land. [Cheers.] I can only hope, that my conduct, as a
+religious man and a minister of Christ, may not bring discredit upon my
+ancestors, and upon the honorable origin which I claim. [Hear! and
+cheers.] I wish to say, in the first place, that in the United States
+the Congregational churches, as a body, are free from slavery. [Cheers.]
+I do not think that there is a Congregational church in the United
+States in which a member could openly hold a slave without subjecting
+himself to discipline.[F] True, I have met with churches very deficient
+in their duty on this subject, and I am afraid there are members of
+Congregational churches who hold slaves secretly as security for debt in
+the Southern States. At the last great Congregational Convention, held
+in the city of Albany, the churches took a step on the subject of
+slavery much in advance of any other great ecclesiastical body in the
+country. I hope it is but the beginning of a series of measures that
+will eventuate in the separation of this body from all connection with
+slavery. [Hear, hear!] I am extensively acquainted with the United
+States; I have lived in different sections of them; I am familiar with
+people of all classes, and it is my solemn conviction, that nine tenths
+of the people feel on the subject of slavery as you do;[G] [cheers;]
+perhaps not so intensely, for familiarity with wrong deadens the
+conscience; but their convictions are altogether as yours are; and in
+the slaveholding states, and among slaveholders themselves, conscience
+is against the system. [Cheers.] There is no legislative control of the
+subject of slavery, except by slaveholding legislators themselves.
+Congress has no right to do any thing in the premises. They violated the
+constitution, as I believe, in passing the Fugitive Slave Act. [Cheers.]
+I do not believe they had any right to pass it. [Hear, hear!] I stand
+here not as the representative of any body whatever. I only represent
+myself, and give you my individual convictions, that have been produced
+by a long and painful connection with the subject. [Hear, hear!] As to
+the resolution, I approve it entirely. Its sentiment and its spirit are
+my own. [Cheers.] At the close of the revolutionary war, which separated
+the colonies from the mother country, every state of the Union was a
+slaveholding state; every colony was a slaveholding colony; and now we
+have seventeen free states. [Cheers.] Slavery has been abolished in one
+half of the original colonies, and it was declared that there should be
+neither slavery nor the slave trade in any territory north and west of
+the Ohio River; so that all that part is entirely free from actual
+active participation in this curse, laying open a free territory that, I
+think, must be ten times larger in extent than Great Britain. [Loud
+cheers.] The State of Massachusetts was the first in which slavery
+ceased. How did it cease? By an enactment of the legislature? Not at
+all. They did not feel there was any necessity for such an enactment.
+The Bill of Rights declared, that all men were born free, and that they
+had an equal right to the pursuit of happiness and the acquisition of
+property. In contradiction to that, there were slaves in every part of
+Massachusetts; and some philanthropic individual advised a slave to
+bring into court an action for wages against his master during all his
+time of servitude. The action was brought, and the court decided that
+the negro was entitled to wages during the whole period. [Cheers.] That
+put an end to slavery in Massachusetts, and that decision ought to have
+put an end to slavery in all states of the Union, because the law
+applied to all. They abolished slavery in all the Northern States--in
+Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Connecticut, and Rhode Island; and it was
+expected that the whole of the states would follow the example. When I
+was a child, I never heard a lisp in defence of slavery. [Hear, hear,
+hear!] Every body condemned it; all looked upon it as a great curse, and
+all regarded it as a temporary evil, which would soon melt away before
+the advancing light of truth. [Hear, hear!] But still there was great
+injustice done to those who had been slaves. Every body regarded the
+colored race as a degraded race; they were looked upon as inferior; they
+were not upon terms of social equality. The only thing approaching it
+was, that the colored children attended the schools with the white
+children, and took their places on the same forms; but in all other
+respects they were excluded from the common advantages and privileges of
+society. In the places of worship they were seated by themselves; and
+that difference always existed till these discussions came up, and they
+began to feel mortified at their situation; and hence, wherever they
+could, they had worship by themselves, and began to build places of
+worship for themselves; and now you will scarcely find a colored person
+occupying a seat in our places of worship. This stain still remains, and
+it is but a type of the feeling that has been generated by slavery. This
+ought to be known and understood, and this is just one of the
+out-croppings of that inward feeling that still is doing great injustice
+to the colored race; but there are symptoms of even that giving way.
+
+"I suppose you all remember Dr. Pennington--[cheers]--a colored minister
+of great talent and excellence--[Hear, hear!]--though born a slave, and
+for many years was a fugitive slave. [Hear, hear.] Dr. Pennington is a
+member of the presbytery of New York; and within the last six months he
+has been chosen moderator of that presbytery. [Loud cheers.] He has
+presided in that capacity at the ordination of a minister to one of the
+most respectable churches of that city. So far so good--we rejoice in
+it, and we hope that the same sense of justice which has brought about
+that change, so that a colored man can be moderator of a Presbytery in
+the city of New York, will go on, till full justice is done to these
+people, and until the grievous wrongs to which they have been subjected
+will be entirely done away. [Cheers.] But still, what is the aspect
+which the great American nation now presents to the Christian world?
+Most sorry am I to say it; but it is just this--a Christian republic
+upholding slavery--the only great nation on earth that does uphold it--a
+great Christian republic, which, so far as the white people are
+concerned, is the fairest and most prosperous nation on earth--that
+great Christian republic using all the power of its government to secure
+and to shield this horrible institution of negro slavery from
+aggression; and there is no subject on which the government is so
+sensitive--there is no institution which it manifests such a
+determination to uphold. [Hear, hear!] And then the most melancholy fact
+of all is, that the entire Christian church in that republic, with few
+exceptions, are silent, or are apologists for this great wrong. [Hear,
+hear!] It makes my heart bleed to think of it; and there are many
+praying and weeping in secret places over this curse, whose voices are
+not heard. There is such a pressure on the subject, it is so mixed up
+with other things, that many sigh over it who know not what to say or
+what to do in reference to it. And what kind of slavery is it? Is it
+like the servitude under the Mosaic law, which is brought forward to
+defend it? Nothing like it. Let me read you a little extract from a
+correspondent of a New York paper, writing from Paris. I will read it,
+because it is so graphic, and because I wish to show from what sources
+you may best ascertain the real nature of American slavery. The
+commercial newspapers, published by slaveholders, in slaveholding
+states, will give you a far more graphic idea of what slavery actually
+is, than you have from Uncle Tom's Cabin; for there the most horrible
+features are softened. This writer says, 'And now a word on American
+representatives abroad. I have already made my complaint of the troubles
+brought on Americans here by that "incendiary" book of Mrs. Stowe's,
+especially of the difficulty we have in making the French understand our
+institutions. But there was one partially satisfactory way of answering
+their questions, by saying that Uncle Tom's Cabin was a romance. And
+this would have served the purpose pretty well, and spared our blushes
+for the model republic, if the slaveholders themselves would only
+withhold their testimony to the truth of what we were willing to let
+pass as fiction. But they are worse than Mrs. Stowe herself, and their
+writings are getting to be quoted here quite extensively. The _Moniteur_
+of to-day, and another widely-circulated journal that lies on my table,
+both contain extracts from those extremely incendiary periodicals, _The
+National Intelligencer_, of February 11, and _The N.O. Picayune_, of
+February 17. The first gives an auctioneer's advertisement of the sale
+of "a negro boy of eighteen years, a negro girl aged sixteen, three
+horses, saddles, bridles, wheelbarrows," &c. Then follows an account of
+the sale, which reads very much like the description, in the dramatic
+_feuilletons_ here, of a famous scene in the _Case de l'Oncle Tom_, as
+played at the _Ambigu Comique_. The second extract is the advertisement
+of "our esteemed fellow-citizen, Mr. M.C.G.," who presents his "respects
+to the inhabitants of O. and the neighbouring parishes," and "informs
+them that he keeps a fine pack of dogs trained to catch negroes," &c. It
+is painful to think that there are men in our country who will write,
+and that there are others found to publish, such tales as these about
+our peculiar institution. I put it to Mr. G., if he thinks it is
+patriotic. As a "fellow-citizen," and in his private relations, G. may
+be an estimable man, for aught I know, a Christian and a scholar, and an
+ornament to the social circles of O. and the neighboring parishes. But
+as an author, G. becomes public property, and a fair theme for
+criticism; and in that capacity, I say G. is publishing the shame of his
+country. I call him G., without the prefatory Mister, not from any
+personal disrespect, much as I am grieved at his course as a writer, but
+because he is now breveted for immortality, and goes down to posterity,
+like other immortals, without titular prefix.' [Cheers.] Now, here is
+where you get the true features of slavery. What is the reason that the
+churches, as a general thing, are silent--that some of them are
+apologists, and that some, in the extreme Southern States, actually
+defend slavery, and say it is a good institution, and sanctioned by
+Scripture? It is simply this--the overwhelming power of the slave
+system; and whence comes that overwhelming power? It comes from its
+great influence in the commercial world. [Hear!] Until the time that
+cotton became so extensively an article of export, there was not a word
+said in defence of slavery, as far as I know, in the United States. In
+1818, the Presbyterian General Assembly passed resolutions unanimously
+on the subject of slavery, to which this resolution is mildness itself;
+and not a man could be found to say one word against it. But cotton
+became a most valuable article of export. In one form and another, it
+became intimately associated with the commercial affairs of the whole
+country. The northern manufacturers were intimately connected with this
+cotton trade, and more than two thirds raised in the United States has
+been sold in Great Britain; and it is this cotton trade that supports
+the whole system. That you may rely upon. The sugar and rice, so far as
+the United States are concerned, are but small interests. The system is
+supported by this cotton trade, and within two days I have seen an
+article written with vigor in the _Charleston Mercury_, a southern paper
+of great influence, saying, that the slaveholders are becoming isolated,
+by the force of public opinion, from the rest of the world. They are
+beginning to be regarded as inhuman tyrants, and the slaves the victims
+of their cruelty; but, says the writer, just so long as you take our
+cotton, we shall have our slaves. Now, you are as really involved in
+this matter as we are--[Hear, hear!]--and if you have no other right to
+speak on the subject, you have a right to speak from being yourselves
+very active participators in the wrong. You have a great deal of feeling
+on the subject, honorable and generous feeling, I know--an earnest,
+philanthropic, Christian feeling; but if you have nothing to do, that
+feeling will all evaporate, and leave an apathy behind. Now, here is
+something to be done. It may be a small beginning, but, as you go
+forward, Providence will develop other plans, and the more you do, the
+further you will see. I am happy to know that a beginning has been made.
+There are indications that a way has been so opened in providence that
+this exigency can be met. Within the last few years, the Chinese have
+begun to emigrate to the western parts of the United States. They will
+maintain themselves on small wages; and wherever they come into actual
+competition with slave labor, it cannot compete with them. Very many of
+the slaveholders have spoken of this as a very remarkable indication. If
+slavery had been confined to the original slave states, as it was
+intended, slavery could not have lived. It was the intention that it
+should never go beyond those boundaries. Had this been the case, it
+would increase the number of slaves so much that they would have been
+valueless as articles of property. I must say this for America, that the
+slaves increase in the slave states faster than the white people; and it
+shows that their physical condition is better than was that of the
+slaves at the West Indies, or in Cuba, where the number actually
+diminished. We must have more slave territories to make our slaves
+valuable, and there was the origin of that iniquitous Mexican war,
+whereby was added the vast territory of Texas; and then it was the
+intention to make California a slave state; but, I am happy to say, it
+has been received into the Union as a free state, and God grant it may
+continue so. [Hear, hear!] What has been the effect of this expansion of
+slave territory? It has doubled the value of slaves. Since I can
+remember, a strong slave man would sell for about four hundred or six
+hundred dollars--that is, about one hundred pounds; but now, during the
+present season, I have known instances in which a slave man has been
+sold for two hundred and thirty pounds. There are more slaves raised in
+Virginia and Maryland than they can use in those states in labor, and,
+therefore, they sell them at one hundred, two hundred, or three hundred
+pounds, as the case may be, for cash. All that Mrs. Tyler intimates in
+that letter about slavery in America, and the impression it is
+calculated and intended to convey, that they treat their slaves so well,
+and do not separate their families, and so forth, is all mere humbug.
+[Laughter and cheers.] It is well known that Virginia has more profit
+from selling negroes than from any other source. The great sources of
+profit are tobacco and negroes, and they derive more from the sale of
+negroes than tobacco. You see the temptation this gives to avarice.
+Suppose there is a man with no property, except fifteen or twenty negro
+men, whom he can sell, each one for two hundred pounds, cash; and he has
+as many negro women, whom he can sell for one hundred and fifty pounds,
+cash, and the children for one hundred pounds each: here is a temptation
+to avarice; and it is calculated to silence the voice of conscience; and
+it is the expansion of the slave territory, and the immense mercantile
+value of the cotton, that has brought so powerful an influence to bear
+on the United States in favor of slavery. [Hear, hear.] Now, as to free
+labor coming into competition with slave labor: You will see, that when
+the price of slaves is so enormous, it requires an immense outlay to
+stock a plantation. A good plantation would take two hundred, or three
+hundred hands. Now, say for every hand employed on this plantation, the
+man must pay on an average two hundred pounds, which is not exorbitant
+at the present time. If he has to pay at this rate, what an immense
+outlay of capital to begin with, and how great the interest on that sum
+continually accumulating! And then there is the constant exposure to
+loss. These plantation negroes are very careless of life, and often
+cholera gets among them, and sweeps off twenty-five or thirty in a few
+days; and then there is the underground railroad, and, with all the
+precautions that can be taken, it continues to work. And now you see
+what an immense risk, and exposure to loss, and a vast outlay of
+capital, there is in connection with this system. But, if a man takes a
+cotton farm, and can employ Chinese laborers, he can get them for one or
+two shillings a day, and they will do the work as well, if not better
+than negroes, and there is no outlay or risk. [Hear, hear!]. If good
+cotton fields can be obtained, as they may in time, here is an opening
+which will tend to weaken the slave system. If Christians will
+investigate this subject, and if philanthropists generally will pursue
+these inquiries in an honest spirit, it is not long before we shall see
+a movement throughout the civilized world, and the upholders of slavery
+will feel, where they feel most acutely--in their pockets. Until
+something of this kind is done, I despair of accomplishing any great
+amount of good by simple appeals to the conscience and right principle.
+There are a few who will listen to conscience and a sense of right, but
+there are unhappily only a few. I suppose, though you have good
+Christians here, you have many who will put their consciences in their
+pockets. [Hear, hear!] I have known cases of this kind. There was a
+young lady in the State of Virginia who was left an orphan, and she had
+no property except four negro slaves, who were of great commercial
+value. She felt that slavery was wrong, and she could not hold them. She
+gave them their freedom--[cheers]--and supported herself by teaching a
+small school. [Cheers.] Now, notwithstanding all the unfavorable things
+we see--notwithstanding the dark cloud that hangs over the country,
+there are hopeful indications that God has not forgotten us, and that he
+will carry on this work till it is accomplished. [Hear!] But it will be
+a long while first, I fear; and we must pray, and labor, and persevere;
+for he that perseveres to the end, and he only, receives the crown. Now,
+there are very few in the United States who undertake to defend slavery,
+and say it is right. But the great majority, even of professors of
+religion, unite to shield it from aggression. 'It is the law of the
+land,' they say, 'and we must submit to it.' It seems a strange doctrine
+to come from the lips of the descendants of the Puritans, those who
+resisted the law of the land because those laws were against their
+conscience, and finally went over to that new world, in order that they
+might enjoy the rights of conscience. How would it have been with the
+primitive church if this doctrine had prevailed? There never would have
+been any Christian church, for that was against the laws of the land. In
+regard to the distribution of the Bible, in many states the laws
+prohibit the teaching of slaves, and the distribution of the Bible is
+not allowed among them. The American Bible Society does not itself take
+the responsibility of this. It leaves the whole matter to the local
+societies in the several states, and it is the local societies that take
+the responsibility. Well, why should we obey the law of the land in
+South Carolina on this subject, and disobey the law of the land in
+Italy? But our missionary societies and Bible societies send Bibles to
+other parts of the world, and never ask if it is contrary to the law of
+these lands, and if it is, they push it all the more zealously. They
+send Bibles to Italy and Spain, and yet the Bible is prohibited by those
+governments. The American Tract Society and the American Sunday School
+Union allow none of their issues to utter a syllable against slavery.
+They expunge even from their European books every passage of this kind,
+and excuse themselves by the law and the public sentiment. So are the
+people taught. There has been a great deal said on the subject of
+influence from abroad; but those who talk in that way interfered with
+the persecution of the Madiai, and remonstrated with the Tuscan
+government. We have had large meetings on the subject in New York, and
+those who refuse the Bible to the slave took part in that meeting, and
+did not seem to think there was any inconsistency in their conduct.
+
+"The Christian church knows no distinction of nations. In that church
+there is neither Greek nor Jew, Barbarian, Scythian, bond nor free, but
+all are one in Christ; and whatever affects one part of the body affects
+the other, and the whole Christian church every where is bound to help,
+and encourage, and rebuke, as the case may require. The Christian church
+is every where bound to its corresponding branch in every other country;
+and thus you have, not only a right, but it is your duty, to consider
+the case of the American slave with just the same interest with which
+you consider the cause of the native Hindoo, when you send out your
+missionaries there, or with which you consider Madagascar; and to
+express yourselves in a Christian spirit, and in a Christian way
+continually, till you see that your admonitions have had a suitable
+influence. I do not doubt what you say, that you will receive with great
+pleasure men who come from the United States to promote the cause of
+temperance, and you may have the opportunity of showing your sincerity
+before long; and the manner in which you receive them will have a very
+important bearing on the subject of slavery. [Cheers.] I have not the
+least doubt you will hail with joy those who will come across the
+Atlantic to advance and promote still more earnestly those noble
+institutions, the ragged schools and the ragged churches. [Cheers.] The
+men who want to do good at home are the men who do good abroad; and the
+same spirit of Christian liberality that leads you to feel for the
+American slave will lead you to care for your own poor, and those in
+adverse circumstances in your own land, I would ask, Is it possible,
+then, that admonition and reproof given in a Christian spirit, and by a
+Christian heart, can fail to produce a right influence on a Christian
+spirit and a Christian heart? I think the thing is utterly impossible;
+and that if such admonitions as are contained in the resolution,
+conceived in such a spirit, and so kindly expressed--if they are not
+received in a Christian spirit, it is because the Christian spirit has
+unhappily fled. I can answer for myself, at least, and many of my
+brethren, that it will be so; and, so far from desiring you to withhold
+your expressions on account of any bad feeling that they might excite, I
+wish you to reiterate them, and reiterate them in the same spirit in
+which they are given in this resolution; for I believe that these
+expressions of impatience and petulance represent the feelings of very
+few. Who is it that always speaks first? The angry man, and it comes out
+at once; but the wise man keeps it in till afterwards; and it will not
+be long before you will find, that whatever you say in a Christian
+spirit will be responded to on the other side of the water. Now, I
+believe our churches have neglected their duty on this subject, and are
+still neglecting it. Many do not seem to know what their duty is. Yet I
+believe them to be good, conscientious men, and men who will do their
+duty when they know what it is. Take, for example, the American Board of
+Foreign Missions. There are not better men, or more conscientious men,
+on the face of the earth, or men more sincerely desirous of doing their
+duty; yet, in some things, I believe they are mistaken. I think it would
+be better to throw over the very few churches connected with the Board
+which are slaveholding, than to endeavor to sustain them, and to have
+all this pressure of responsibility still upon them. But yet they are
+pursuing the course which they conscientiously think to be right.
+Christian admonition will not be lost upon them.[H] I will say the same
+of the American Home Missionary Society. They have little to do with
+slavery, as I have already remarked. Many think they ought not to say
+any thing upon the subject, because they cannot do so without weakening
+their influence. But then this question comes: If good men do not speak,
+who will?--[Hear, hear!]--and, as our Savior said in regard to the
+children that shouted, Hosannah, 'If these should hold their peace, the
+stones would immediately cry out.' It is in consequence of their silence
+that stones have begun to cry out, and they rebuke the silence and
+apathy of good men; and this is made an argument against religion, which
+has had effect with unthinking people; so I think it absolutely
+necessary that men in the church, on that very ground, should speak out
+their mind on this great subject at whatever risk--[cheers]--and they
+must take the consequences. In due time God will prosper the right, and
+in due time the fetters will fall from every slave, and the black man
+will have the same privileges as the white. [Applause.]"
+
+
+ROYAL HIGHLAND SCHOOL SOCIETY DINNER, AT THE FREEMASON'S TAVERN,
+LONDON--MAY 14.
+
+The Chairman, Sir ARCHIBALD ALISON, gave "The health of her Grace the
+Duchess of Sutherland, and the noble patronesses of the Society," which
+was received with great applause. It was extremely gratifying, he said,
+to find a lady, belonging to one of the most ancient and noblest
+families of the kingdom, displaying so great an interest in their
+institution. [Cheers.] Not the least of their obligations to her Grace
+was the opportunity she had given them to offer their respects to a
+lady, remarkable alike for her genius and her philanthropy, who had come
+from across the Atlantic, and who, by her philanthropic exertions in the
+cause of negro emancipation, had enlisted the feelings and called forth
+the sympathies of thousands and tens of thousands on both sides of the
+ocean. [Tremendous cheering.] She had shown that the genius, and
+talents, and energies, which such a cause inspired, had created a
+species of freemasonry throughout the world; it had set aside
+nationalities, and bound two nations together which the broad Atlantic
+could not sever; and created a union of sentiment and purpose which he
+trusted would continue till the great work of negro emancipation had
+been finally accomplished. [Cheers.]
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE responded to the allusion which had been made to Mrs.
+Stowe, and was greeted with hearty applause. He said he had read in his
+childhood the writings of Sir Walter Scott, and thus became intensely
+interested in all that pertained to Scotland. [Cheers.] He had read,
+more recently, his Life of Napoleon, and also Sir Archibald Alison's
+History of Europe. [Protracted cheers.] But he certainly never expected
+to be called upon to address such an assembly as that, and under such
+circumstances. Nothing could exceed the astonishment which was felt by
+himself and Mrs. Stowe at the cordiality of their reception in every
+part of Great Britain, from persons of every rank in life. [Cheers.]
+Every body seemed to have read her book. [Hear, hear! and loud cheers.]
+Everyone seemed to have been deeply interested, [cheers,] and disposed
+to return a full-hearted homage to the writer. But all she claimed
+credit for was truth, and honesty, and earnestness of purpose. He had
+only to add that he cordially thanked the Royal Highland School Society
+for the kindness which induced them to invite him and Mrs. Stowe to be
+present that evening. [Cheers.] The work in which the society was
+engaged was one that they both held dear, and in which they felt the
+deepest interest, inasmuch as that object was to promote the education
+of youth among those whose poverty rendered them unable to provide the
+means of education for themselves. [Hear, hear!] In such works as that
+they had themselves for most of their lives been diligently engaged.
+[Cheers.]
+
+
+ANTISLAVERY SOCIETY, EXETER HALL--MAY 16.
+
+THE EARL OF SHAFTESBURY, who, on coming forward to open the proceedings,
+was received with much applause, spoke as follows: "We are assembled
+here this night to protest, with the utmost intensity, and with all the
+force which language can command, against the greatest wrong that the
+wickedness of man ever perpetrated upon his fellow-man--[loud cheers]--a
+wrong which, great in all ages--great in heathen times--great in all
+countries--great even under heathen sentiments--is indescribably
+monstrous in Christian days, and exercised as it is, not unfrequently,
+over Christian people. [Hear!] It is surely remarkable, and exceedingly
+disgraceful to a century and a generation so boastful of its progress,
+and of the institution of so many Bible societies, with so many
+professions and preachments of Christianity--with so many declarations
+of the spiritual value of man before God--after so many declarations of
+this equality of every man in the sight of his fellow-man--that we
+should be assembled here this evening to protest against the conduct of
+a mighty and a Protestant people, who, in the spirit of the Romish
+Babylon, which they had renounced, resort to her most abominable
+practices--making merchandise of the temples of God, and trafficking in
+the bodies and souls of men. [Cheers.] We are not here to proclaim and
+maintain our own immaculate purity. We are not here to stand forward and
+say, 'I am holier than thou.' We have confessed, and that openly, and
+freely, and unreservedly, our share, our heavy share, in by-gone days,
+of vast wickedness; we have, we declare it again, and we had our deep
+remorse. We sympathize with the preponderating bulk of the American
+people; we acknowledge and we feel the difficulties which beset them; we
+rejoice and we believe in their good intentions; but we have no
+patience--I at least have none--with those professed leaders, be they
+political or be they clerical, who mislead the people--with those who,
+blasphemously resting slavery on the Holy Scriptures, desecrate their
+pulpits by the promulgation of doctrines better suited to the synagogue
+of Satan--[cheers]--nor with that gentleman who, the greatest officer of
+the greatest republic in the whole world, in pronouncing an inaugural
+address to the assembled multitudes, maintains the institution of
+slavery; and--will you believe it?--invokes the Almighty God to maintain
+those rights, and thus sanction the violation of his own laws!--[Cries
+of 'Shame!'] This is, indeed, a dismal prospect for those who tremble at
+human power; but we have this consolation: Is it not said that, 'When
+the enemy shall come in like a flood, the Spirit of the Lord shall lift
+up a standard against him?' [Hear, hear!] He has done so now, and a most
+wonderful and almost inspired protector has arisen for the suffering of
+this much injured race. [Loud cheers.] Feeble as her sex, but
+irresistible as virtue and as truth, she will prove to her adversary,
+and to ours, that such boasting shall not be for his honor, 'for the
+Lord will sell Sisera into the hands of a woman.' [Hear, hear! and loud
+cheers.] Now, I ask you this: Is there one of you who believes that the
+statements of that marvellous book to which we have alluded present an
+exaggerated picture?--[Tremendous cries of 'No, no.'] Do they not know,
+say what they will, that the truth is not fully stated? [Hear, hear!]
+The reality is worse than the fiction. [Hear, hear!] But, apart from
+this, there is our solemn declaration that the vileness of the principle
+is at once exhibited in the mere notion of slavery, and the atrocities
+of it are the natural and almost inevitable consequences of the
+profession and exercise of absolute and irresponsible power. [Hear,
+hear!] But do you doubt the fact? Look to the document. I will quote to
+you from this book. I have never read any thing more strikingly
+illustrative or condemnatory of the system we are here to denounce. Here
+is the judgment pronounced by one of the judges in North Carolina. It is
+impossible to read this judgment, however terrible the conclusion,
+without feeling convinced that the man who pronounced it was a man of a
+great mind, and, in spite of the law he was bound to administer, a man
+of a great heart. [Hear, hear!] Hear what he says. The case was this: It
+was a 'case of appeal,' in which the defendant had hired a slave woman
+for a year. During this time she committed some slight offence, for
+which the defendant undertook to chastise her. After doing so he shot at
+her as she was running away. The question then arose, was he justified
+in using that amount of coercion? and whether the privilege of shooting
+was not confined to the actual proprietor? The case was argued at some
+length, and the court, in pronouncing judgment, began by deploring that
+any judge should ever be called upon to decide such a case, but he had
+to administer the law, and not to make it. The judge said, 'With
+whatever reluctance, therefore, the court is bound to express the
+opinion, that the dominion over a slave in Carolina has not, as it has
+been argued, any analogy with the authority of a tutor over a pupil, of
+a master over an apprentice, or of a parent over a child. The court does
+not recognize these applications. There is no likeness between them.
+They are in opposition to each other, and there is an impassable gulf
+between them. The difference is that which exists between freedom and
+slavery--[Hear, hear!]--and a greater difference cannot be imagined. In
+the one case, the end in view is the happiness of the youth, born to
+equal rights with the tutor, whose duty it is to train the young to
+usefulness by moral and intellectual instruction. If they will not
+suffice, a moderate chastisement maybe administered. But with slavery it
+is far otherwise.' Mark these words, for they contain the whole thing.
+But with slavery it is far otherwise. The end is the profit of the
+master, and the poor object is one doomed, in his own person, and in his
+posterity, to live without knowledge, and without capacity to attain any
+thing which he may call his own. He has only to labor, that another may
+reap the fruits.' [Hear, hear!] Mark! this is from the sacred bench of
+justice, pronounced by one of the first intellects in America! 'There is
+nothing else which can operate to produce the effect; the power of the
+master must be absolute, to render the submission of the slave perfect.
+[Hear, hear!] It is inherent in the relation of master and slave;' and
+then he adds those never-to-be-forgotten words, 'We cannot allow the
+right of the master to come under discussion in the courts of justice.
+The slave must be made sensible that there is no appeal from his master,
+and that his master's power is in no instance usurped; that these rights
+are conferred by the laws of man, at least, if not by the law of God.'
+[Loud cries of 'Shame, shame!'] This is the mode in which we are to
+regard these two classes of beings, both created by the same God, and
+both redeemed by the same Savior as ourselves, and destined to the same
+immortality! The judgment, on appeal, was reversed; but, God be praised;
+there is another appeal, and that appeal we make to the highest of all
+imaginable courts, where God is the judge, where mercy is the advocate,
+and where unerring truth will pronounce the decision![Protracted
+cheering.] There are some who are pleased to tell us that there is an
+inferiority in the race! That is untrue. [Cheers.] But we are not here
+to inquire whether our black brethren will become Shakspeares or
+Herschels. [Hear, hear!] I ask, are they immortal beings? [Great
+applause.] Do our adversaries, say no? I ask them, then, to show me one
+word in the handwriting of God which has thus levelled them with the
+brute beasts. [Hear, hear!] Let us bear in mind those words of our
+blessed Savior--'Whosoever shall offend one of these little ones who
+believe in me, it were better that a millstone were hanged about his
+neck, and that he were cast into the depths of the sea.' [Loud cheers.]
+Now, then, what is our duty? Is it to stand still? Yes! when we receive
+the command from the same authority that said to the sun, Stand over
+Gibeon! [Loud cheers.] Then, and not till then, will we stand still.
+[Renewed cheers.] Are we to listen to the craven and miserable talk
+about 'doing more harm than good'? [Hear, hear!] This was an argument
+which would have checked every noble enterprise which has been
+undertaken since the world began. It would have strangled Wilberforce,
+and checked the very Exodus itself from the house of bondage in Egypt.
+[Hear, hear!] Out on all such craven talk! [Cheers.] Slavery is a
+mystery, and so is all sin, and we must fight against it; and, by the
+blessing of God, we will. [Loud cheers.] We must pray to Almighty God,
+that we and our American brethren--who seem now to be the sole
+depositories of the Protestant truth, and of civil and religious
+liberty, may be as one. [Cheers.] We are feeble, if hostile; but, if
+united, we are the arbiters of the world. [Cheers.] Let us join together
+for the temporal and spiritual good of our race."
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE then came forward, and was received with unbounded
+demonstrations of applause. When the cheering had subsided, he said "he
+felt utterly exhausted by the heat and excitement of the meeting, and
+should therefore be glad to be excused from saying a single word;
+however, he would utter a few thoughts. The following was the resolution
+which he had to submit to the meeting: 'That with a view to the
+correction of public sentiment on this subject in slaveholding
+communities, it is of the first importance that those who are earnest in
+condemnation of slavery should observe consistency; and, therefore, that
+it is their duty to encourage the development of the natural resources
+of countries where slavery does not exist, and the soil of which is
+adapted to the growth of products--especially of cotton--now partially
+or chiefly raised by slave labor; and though the extinction of slavery
+is less to be expected from a diminished demand for slave produce than
+from the moral effects of a steadfast abhorrence of slavery itself, and
+from an unwavering and consistent opposition to it, this meeting would
+earnestly recommend, that in all cases where it is practicable, a
+decided preference should be given to the products of free labor, by all
+who enter their protest against slavery, so that at least they
+themselves may be clear of any participation in the guilt of the system,
+and be thus morally strengthened in their condemnation of it.' At the
+close of the revolutionary war, all the states of America were
+slaveholding states. In Massachusetts, some benevolent white man caused
+a slave to try an action for wages in a court of justice. He succeeded,
+and the consequence was, that slavery fell in Massachusetts. It was then
+universally acknowledged that slavery was a sin and shame, and ought to
+be abolished, and it was expected that it would be soon abolished in
+every state of the Union. Mr. Jefferson, Mr. Madison, and Benjamin
+Franklin would not allow the word 'slave' to occur in the constitution,
+and Mr. Edwards, from the pulpit, clearly and broadly denounced slavery.
+And when he (Professor Stowe) was a boy, in Massachusetts the negro
+children were admitted to the same schools with the whites. Although
+there was some prejudice of color then, yet it was not so strong as at
+present. In 1818, the General Assembly of the Presbyterian church in the
+United States passed, resolutions against slavery far stronger than
+those passed at the meeting this evening, and every man, north and
+south, voted for them. What had caused the change? It was the
+profitableness of the cotton trade. It was that which had spread the
+chains of slavery over the Union, and silenced the church upon the
+subject. He had been asked, what right had Great Britain to interfere?
+Why, Great Britain took four fifths of the cotton of America, and
+therefore sustained four fifths of the slavery. That gave them a right
+to interfere. [Hear, hear!] He admitted that our participation in the
+guilt was not direct, but without the cotton, trade of Great Britain
+slavery would have been abolished long ago, for the American
+manufacturers consumed but one fifth of all the cotton grown in the
+country. The conscience of the cotton growers was talked of; but had the
+cotton consumer no conscience? [Cheers.] It seemed to him that the
+British public had more direct access to the consumer than to the grower
+of cotton." Professor Stowe then read an extract from a paper published
+in Charleston, South Carolina, showing the influence of the American
+cotton trade on the slavery question. "The price of cotton regulated the
+price of slaves, who were now worth an average of two hundred pounds. A
+cotton plantation required in some cases two hundred, and in others four
+hundred slaves. This would give an idea of the capital needed. With free
+labor there was none of this outlay--there was none of those losses by
+the cholera, and the 'underground railroad,' to which the slave owners
+were subjected. [Hear, hear!] The Chinese had come over in large
+numbers, and could be hired for small wages, on which they managed to
+live well in their way. If people would encourage free-grown cotton,
+that would be the strongest appeal they could make to the slaveholder.
+There were three ways of abolishing slavery. First, by a bloody
+revolution, which few would approve. [Hear, hear!] Secondly, by
+persuading slaveholders of the wrong they commit; but this would have
+little effect so long as they bought their cotton. [Hear, hear!] And the
+third and most feasible way was, by making slave labor unprofitable, as
+compared with free labor. [Hear!] When the Chinese first began to
+emigrate to California, it was predicted that slavery would be 'run out'
+that way. He hoped it might be so. [Cheers.] The reverend gentleman then
+reverted to his previous visit to this country, seventeen years ago, and
+described the rapid strides which had been made in the work of
+education--especially the education of the poor--in the interval. It was
+most gratifying to him, and more easily seen by him than it would be by
+us, with whom the change had been gradual. He had been told in America
+that the English abolitionists were prompted by jealousy of America, but
+he had found that to be false. The Christian feeling which had dictated
+efforts on behalf of ragged schools and factory children, and the
+welfare of the poor and distressed of every kind, had caused the same
+Christian hearts to throb for the American slave. It was that Christian
+philanthropy which received all men as brethren--children of the same
+father, and therefore he had great hopes of success. [Cheers.]"
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+My remarks on the cotton business of Britain were made with entire
+sincerity, and a single-hearted desire to promote the antislavery cause.
+They are sentiments which I had long entertained, and which I had taken
+every opportunity to express with the utmost freedom from the time of my
+first landing in Liverpool, the great cotton mart of England, and where,
+if any where, they might be supposed capable of giving offence; yet no
+exception was taken to them, so far as I know, till delivered in Exeter
+Hall. There they were heard by some with surprise, and by others with
+extreme displeasure. I was even called _proslavery_, and ranked with
+Mrs. Julia Tyler, for frankly speaking the truth, under circumstances of
+great temptation to ignore it.
+
+Still I have the satisfaction of knowing that both my views and my
+motives were rightly understood and properly appreciated by
+large-hearted and clear-headed philanthropists, like the Earl of
+Shaftesbury and Joseph Sturge, and very fairly represented and commented
+upon by such religious and secular papers as the Christian Times, the
+British Banner, the London Daily News and Chronicle; and even the
+_thundering political_ Times seemed disposed, in a half-sarcastic way,
+to admit that I was more than half right.
+
+But it is most satisfactory of all to know that the best of the British
+abolitionists are now acting, promptly and efficiently, in accordance
+with those views, and are determined to develop the resources of the
+British empire for the production of cotton by free labor. The thing is
+practicable, and not of very difficult accomplishment. It is furthermore
+absolutely essential to the success of the antislavery cause; for now
+the great practical leading argument for slavery is, _Without slavery
+you can have no cotton, and cotton you must and will have_. The latest
+work that I have read in defence of slavery (Uncle Tom in Paris,
+Baltimore, 1854) says, (pp. 56-7,) "_Of the cotton which supplies the
+wants of the civilized world, the south produces 86 per cent.; and
+without slave labor experience has shown that the cotton plant cannot be
+cultivated_."
+
+How the matter is viewed by sagacious and practical minds in Britain, is
+clear from the following sentences, taken from the National Era:--
+
+"COTTON is KING.--Charles Dickens, in a late number of his Household
+Words, after enumerating the striking facts of cotton, says,--
+
+"'Let any social or physical convulsion visit the United States, and
+England would feel the shock from Land's End to John o'Groat's. The
+lives of nearly two millions of our countrymen are dependent upon the
+cotton crops of America; their destiny may be said, without any sort of
+hyperbole, to hang upon a thread.
+
+"'Should any dire calamity befall the land of cotton, a thousand of our
+merchant ships would rot idly in dock; ten thousand mills must stop
+their busy looms, and two million mouths would starve for lack of food
+to feed them.'
+
+"How many non-slaveholders elsewhere are thus interested in the products
+of slaves? Is it not worthy the attention of genuine philanthropists to
+inquire whether cotton cannot be profitably cultivated by free labor?"
+
+
+SOIREE AT WILLIS'S ROOMS--MAY 25.
+
+MR. JOSEPH STURGE took the chair, announcing that he did so in the
+absence of the Earl of Shaftesbury, who was prevented from attending.
+
+It was announced that letters had been received from the Duke of
+Newcastle and the Earls of Carlisle and Shaftesbury, expressing their
+sympathy with the object of the meeting, and their regret at being
+unable to attend.
+
+The Secretary, SAMUEL BOWLEY, Esq., of Gloucester, then read the
+address, which was as follows:--
+
+"MADAM: It is with feelings of the deepest interest that the committee
+of the British and Foreign Antislavery Society, on behalf of themselves
+and of the society they represent, welcome the gifted authoress of Uncle
+Tom's Cabin to the shores of Great Britain.
+
+"As humble laborers in the cause of negro emancipation, we hail, with
+emotions more easily imagined than described, the appearance of that
+remarkable work, which has awakened a world-wide sympathy on behalf of
+the suffering negro, and called forth a burst of honest indignation
+against the atrocious system of slavery, which, we trust, under the
+divine blessing, will, at no distant period, accomplish its entire
+abolition. We are not insensible to those extraordinary merits of Uncle
+Tom's Cabin, as a merely literary production, which have procured for
+its talented authoress such universal commendation and enthusiastic
+applause; but we feel it to be our duty to refer rather to the Christian
+principles and earnest piety which pervade its interesting pages, and to
+express our warmest desire, we trust we may say heartfelt prayer, that
+He who bestowed upon you the power and the grace to write such a work
+may preserve and bless you amid all your honours, and enable you, under
+a grateful and humble sense of his abundant goodness, to give him all
+the glory.
+
+"We rejoice to find that the great principles upon which our society is
+based are so fully and so cordially recognized by yourself and your
+beloved husband and brother--First, that personal slavery, in all its
+varied forms, is a direct violation of the blessed, precepts of the
+gospel, and therefore a sin in the sight of God; and secondly, that
+every victim of this unjust and sinful system is entitled to immediate
+and unconditional freedom. For, however we might acquiesce in the course
+of a nation which, under a sense of its participation in the guilt of
+slavery, should share the pecuniary loss, if such there were, of its
+immediate abolition, yet we repudiate the right to demand compensation
+for human flesh and blood, as (to employ the emphatic words of Lord
+Brougham) we repudiate and abhor 'the wild and guilty fantasy that man
+can hold property in man.' And we do not hesitate to express our
+conviction, strengthened by the experience of emancipation in our own
+colonies, that on the mere ground of social or political expediency, the
+immediate termination of slavery would be far less dangerous and far
+less injurious than, any system of compromise, or any attempt at gradual
+emancipation.
+
+"Let it be borne in mind, however,--and we record it with peculiar
+interest on the present occasion,--that it was the pen of a woman that
+first publicly enunciated the imperative duty of immediate emancipation.
+Amid vituperation and ridicule, and, far worse, the cold rebuke of
+Christian friends, Mrs. Elizabeth Heyrick boldly sent forth the
+thrilling tract which taught the abolitionists of Great Britain this
+lesson of justice and truth; and we honor her memory for her deeds.
+Again we are indebted to the pen of a woman for pleading yet more
+powerfully the cause of justice to the slave; and again we have to
+admire and honor the Christian heroism which has enabled you, dear
+madam, to brave the storm of public opinion, and to bear the frowns of
+the church in your own land, while you boldly sent forth your matchless
+volume to teach more widely and more attractively the same righteous
+lesson.
+
+"We desire to feel grateful for the measure of success that has crowned
+the advocacy of these sound antislavery principles in our own country;
+but we cannot but feel, that as regards the continuance of slavery in
+America, we have cause for humiliation and shame in the existence of the
+melancholy fact that a large proportion of the fruits of the bitter toil
+and suffering of the slaves in the western world are used to minister to
+the comfort and the luxury of our own population. When this anomaly of a
+country's putting down slavery by law on the one hand, and supporting it
+by its trade and commerce on the other, will be removed, it is not for
+us to predict; but we are conscious that our position is such as should
+at least dissipate every sentiment of self-complacency, and make us
+feel, both nationally and individually, how deep a responsibility still
+rests upon us to wash our own hands of this iniquity, and to seek by
+every legitimate means in our power to rid the world of this fearful
+institution.
+
+"True Christian philanthropy knows no geographical limits, no
+distinctions of race or color; but wherever it sees its fellow-man the
+victim of suffering and oppression, it seeks to alleviate his sorrows,
+or drops a tear of sympathy over the afflictions which it has not the
+power to remove. We cannot but believe that these enlarged and generous
+sympathies will be aroused and strengthened in the hearts of thousands
+and tens of thousands of all classes who have wept over the touching
+pages of Uncle Tom's Cabin. We have marked the rapid progress of its
+circulation from circle to circle, and from country to country, with
+feelings of thrilling interest; for we trust, by the divine blessing
+upon the softening influence and Christian sentiments it breathes, it
+will be made the harbinger of a better and brighter day for the
+happiness and the harmony of the human family. The facilities for
+international intercourse which we now possess, while they rapidly tend
+to remove those absurd jealousies which have so long existed between the
+nations of the earth, are daily increasing the power of public opinion
+in the world at large, which is so well described by one of our leading
+statesmen in these forcible words: 'It is quite true, it may be said,
+what are opinions against armies? Opinions, if they are founded in truth
+and justice, will in the end prevail against the bayonets of infantry,
+the fire of artillery, and the charges of cavalry.' Responding most
+cordially to these sentiments, we rejoice with thanksgiving to God that
+you, whom we now greet and welcome as our dear and honored friend, have
+been enabled to exemplify their beauty and their truth; for it is our
+firm conviction that the united powers of Europe, with all their
+military array, could not accomplish what you have done, through the
+medium of public opinion, for the overthrow of American slavery.
+
+"The glittering steel of the warrior, though steeped in the tyrant's
+blood, would be weak when compared with a woman's pen dipped in the milk
+of human kindness, and softened by the balm of Christian love. The words
+that have drawn a tear from the eye of the noble, and moistened the
+dusky cheek of the hardest sons of toil, shall sink into the heart and
+weaken the grasp of the slaveholder, and crimson with a blush of shame
+many an American citizen who has hitherto defended or countenanced by
+his silence this bitter reproach on the character and constitution of
+his country.
+
+"To the tender mercies of Him who died to save their immortal souls we
+commend the downcast slaves for freedom and protection, and, in the
+heart-cheering belief that you have been raised up as an honored
+instrument in God's hand to hasten the glorious work of their
+emancipation, we crave that his blessing, as well as the blessing of him
+that is ready to perish, may abundantly rest upon you and yours. With
+sentiments of the highest esteem and respect, dear madam, we
+affectionately subscribe ourselves your friends and fellow-laborers."
+
+PROFESSOR STOWE was received with prolonged cheering. He said, "Besides
+the right which I have, owing to the relationship subsisting between us,
+to answer for the lady whom you have so honored, I may claim a still
+greater right in my sympathy for her efforts. [Hear!] We are perfectly
+agreed in every point with regard to the nature of slavery, and the best
+means of getting rid of it. I have been frequently called on to address
+public meetings since I have been on these shores, and though under
+circumstances of great disadvantage, and generally with little time, if
+any, for preparation, still the very great kindness which has been
+manifested to Mrs. Stowe and to myself, and to our country, afflicted as
+it is with this great evil, has enabled me to bear a burden which
+otherwise I should have found insupportable. But of all the addresses we
+have received, kind and considerate as they have all been, I doubt
+whether one has so completely expressed the feelings and sympathies of
+our own hearts as the one we have just heard. It is precisely the
+expressions of our own thoughts and feelings on the whole subject of
+slavery. As this is probably the last time I shall have an opportunity
+of addressing an audience in England, I wish briefly to give you an
+outline of our views as to the best means of dealing with that terrible
+subject of slavery, for in our country it is really terrible in its
+power and influence. Were it not that Providence seems to be lifting a
+light in the distance, I should be almost in despair. There is now a
+system of causes at work which Providence designs should continue to
+work, until that great curse is removed from the face of the earth. I
+believe that in dealing with the subject of slavery, and the best means
+of removing it, the first thing is to show the utter wrongfulness of the
+whole system. The great moral ground is the chief and primary ground,
+and the one on which we should always, and under all circumstances,
+insist. With regard to the work which has created so much excitement,
+the great excellence of it morally is, that it holds up fully and
+emphatically the extreme wrongfulness of the system, while at the same
+time showing an entire Christian and forgiving spirit towards those
+involved in it; and it is these two characteristics which, in my
+opinion, have given it its great power. Till I read that book, I had
+never seen any extensive work that satisfied me on those points. It does
+show, in the most striking manner, the horrible wrongfulness of the
+system, and, at the same time, it displays no bitterness, no unfairness,
+no unkindness, to those involved in it. It is that which gives the work
+the greater power, for where there is unfairness, those assailed take
+refuge behind it; while here they have no such refuge. We should always
+aim, in assailing the system of slavery, to awaken the consciences of
+those involved in it; for among slaveholders there are all kinds of
+moral development, as among every other class of people in the world.
+There are men of tender conscience, as well as men of blunted
+conscience; men with moral sense, and men with no moral sense whatever;
+some who have come into the system involuntarily, born in it, and others
+who have come into it voluntarily. There is a moral nature in every man,
+more or less developed; and according as it is developed we can, by
+showing the wrong of a thing, bring one to abhor it. We have the
+testimony of Christian clergymen in slave holding states, that the
+greater portion of the Christian people there, and even many
+slaveholders, believe the system is wrong; and it is only a matter of
+time, a question of delay, as to when they shall perform their whole
+duty, and bring it to an end.[I] One would believe that when they saw a
+thing to be wrong, they would at once do right; but prejudice, habit,
+interest, education, and a variety of influences check their aspirations
+to what is right; but let us keep on pressing it upon their consciences,
+and I believe their consciences will at length respond. Public sentiment
+is more powerful than force, and it may be excited in many ways.
+Conversation, the press, the platform, and the pulpit may all be used to
+awaken the feeling of the people, and bring it to bear on this question.
+I refer especially to the pulpit; for, if the church and the ministry
+are silent, who is to speak for the dumb and the oppressed? The thing
+that has borne on my mind with the most melancholy weight, and caused me
+most sorrow, is the apparent apathy, the comparative silence, of the
+church on this subject for the last twenty or five and twenty years in
+the United States. Previous to that period it did speak, and with words
+of power; but, unfortunately, it has not followed out those words by
+acts. The influence of the system has come upon it, and brought it, for
+a long time, almost to entire silence; but I hope we are beginning to
+speak again. We hear voices here and there which will excite other
+voices, and I trust before long they will bring all to speak the same
+thing on this subject, so that the conscience of the whole nation may be
+aroused. There is another method of dealing with the subject, which is
+alluded to in the address, and also in the resolution of the society, at
+Exeter Hall. It is the third resolution proposed at that meeting, and I
+will read it, and make some comments as I proceed. It begins, 'That,
+with a view to the correction of public sentiment on this subject in
+slaveholding communities, it is of the first importance that those who
+are earnest in condemnation of slavery should observe consistency, and,
+therefore, that it is their duty to encourage the development of the
+natural resources of countries where slavery does not exist, and the
+soil of which is adapted to the growth of products, especially cotton,
+now partially or chiefly raised by slave labor.' Now, I concur with this
+most entirely, and would refer you to countries where cotton can be
+grown even in your own dominions--in India, Australia, British Guiana,
+and parts of Africa. But it can be raised by free labor in the United
+States, and indeed it is already raised there by free labor to a
+considerable extent; and, provided the plan were more encouraged, it
+could be raised more abundantly. The resolution goes on to say, 'And
+though the extinction of slavery is less to be expected from a
+diminished demand for slave produce than from the moral effects of a
+steadfast abhorrence of slavery, and from an unwavering and consistent
+opposition to it,' &c. Now, my own feelings on that subject are not
+quite so hopeless as here expressed, and it seems to me that you are not
+aware of the extent to which free labor may come into competition with
+slave labor. I know several instances, in the most slaveholding states,
+in which slave labor has been displaced, and free labor substituted in
+its stead. The weakness of slavery consists in the expense of the
+slaves, the great capital to be invested in their purchase before any
+work can be performed, and the constant danger of loss by death or
+escape. When the Chinese emigrants from the eastern portion of their
+empire came to the North-western States, their labor was found much
+cheaper and better than that of slaves. I therefore hope there may be a
+direct influence from this source, as well as the indirect influence
+contemplated by the resolution. At all events, it is an encouragement to
+those who wish the extinction of slavery to keep their eyes open, and
+assist the process by all the means in their power. The resolution
+proceeds: 'This meeting would earnestly recommend, in all cases where it
+is practicable, that a decided preference should be given to the
+products of free labor by all who enter their protest against slavery,
+so that at least they themselves may be clear of any participation in
+the guilt of the system, and be thus morally strengthened in their
+condemnation of it.' To that there can be no objection; but still the
+state of society is such that we cannot at once dispense with all the
+products of slave labor. We may, however, be doing what we
+can--examining the ways and methods by which this end may be brought
+about; and, at all events, we need not be deterred from self-denial, nor
+shrink before minor obstacles. If with foresight we participate in the
+encouragement of slave labor, we must hold ourselves guilty, in no
+unimportant sense, of sustaining the system of slavery. I will
+illustrate my argument by a very simple method. Suppose two ships arrive
+laden with silks of the same quality, but one a pirate ship, in which
+the goods have been obtained by robbery, and the other by honest trade.
+The pirate sells his silks twenty per cent. cheaper than the honest
+trader: you go to him, and declaim against his dishonesty; but because
+you can get silks cheaper of him, you buy of him. Would he think you
+sincere in your denunciations of his plundering his fellow-creatures, or
+would you exert any influence on him to make him abandon his dishonest
+practices? I can, however, put another case in which this inconsistency
+might, perhaps, be unavoidable. Suppose we were in famine or great
+necessity, and we wished to obtain provisions for our suffering
+families: suppose, too, there was a certain man with provisions, who, we
+knew, had come by them dishonestly, but we had no other resource than to
+purchase of him. In that case we should be justified in purchasing of
+him, and should not participate in the guilt of the robbery. But still,
+however great our necessity, we are not justified in refusing to examine
+the subject, and in discouraging those who are endeavoring to set the
+thing on the right ground. That is all I wish, and all the resolution
+contemplates; and, happily, I find that that also is what was implied in
+the address. I may mention one other method alluded to in the address,
+and that is prayer to Almighty God. This ought to be, and must be, a
+religious enterprise. It is impossible for any man to contemplate
+slavery as it is without feeling intense indignation; and unless he have
+his heart near to God, and unless he be a man of prayer and devotional
+spirit, bad passions will arise, and to a very great extent neutralize
+his efforts to do good. How do you suppose such a religious feeling has
+been preserved in the book to which the address refers? Because it was
+written amid prayer from the beginning; and it is only by a constant
+exercise of the religious spirit that the good it had effected has been
+accomplished in the way it has. There is one more subject to which I
+would allude, and that is unity among those who desire to emancipate the
+slave. I mean a good understanding and unity of feeling among the
+opponents of slavery. What gives slavery its great strength in the
+United States? There are only about three hundred thousand slaveholders
+in the United States out of the whole twenty-five millions of its
+population, and yet they hold the entire power over the nation. That is
+owing to their unbroken unity on that one matter, however much, and
+however fiercely, they may contend among themselves on others. As soon
+as the subject of slavery comes up, they are of one heart, of one voice,
+and of one mind, while their opponents unhappily differ, and assail each
+other when they ought to be assailing the great enemy alone. Why can
+they not work together, so far as they are agreed, and let those points
+on which they disagree be waived for the time? In the midst of the
+battle let them sink their differences, and settle them after the
+victory is won. I was happy to find at the great meeting of the Peace
+Society that that course has been adopted. They are not all of one mind
+on the details of the question, but they are of one mind on the great
+principle of diffusing peace doctrines among the great nations of
+Europe. I therefore say, let all the friends of the slave work together
+until the great work of his emancipation is accomplished, and then they
+will have time to discuss their differences, though I believe by that
+time they will all think alike. I thank you sincerely for the kindness
+you have expressed towards my country, and for the philanthropy you have
+manifested, and I hope all has been done in such a Christian spirit that
+every Christian feeling on the other side of the Atlantic will be
+compelled to respond to it."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+CONCLUDING NOTE.
+
+Since the preceding addresses were delivered, the aspect of things among
+us has been greatly changed. It is just as was predicted by the
+sagacious Lord Cockburn, at the meeting in Edinburgh, (see page xxvi.)
+The spirit of slavery, stimulated to madness by the indignation of the
+civilized world, in its frenzy bids defiance to God and man, and is
+determined to make itself respected by enlisting into its service the
+entire wealth, and power, and political influence of this great nation.
+Its encroachments are becoming so enormous, and its progress so rapid,
+that it is now a conflict for the freedom of the citizens rather than
+for the emancipation of the slaves. The reckless faithlessness and
+impudent falsehood of our national proslavery legislation, the present
+season, has scarcely a parallel in history, black as history is with all
+kinds of perfidy. If the men who mean to be free do not now arise in
+their strength and shake off the incubus which is strangling and
+crushing them, they deserve to be slaves, and they will be.
+
+C.E.S.
+
+
+
+
+SUNNY MEMORIES
+
+OF
+
+FOREIGN LANDS.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+
+Liverpool, April 11, 1853.
+
+MY DEAR CHILDREN:--
+
+You wish, first of all, to hear of the voyage. Let me assure you, my
+dears, in the very commencement of the matter, that going to sea is not
+at all the thing that we have taken it to be.
+
+You know how often we have longed for a sea voyage, as the fulfilment of
+all our dreams of poetry and romance, the realization of our highest
+conceptions of free, joyous existence.
+
+You remember our ship-launching parties in Maine, when we used to ride
+to the seaside through dark pine forests, lighted up with the gold,
+scarlet, and orange tints of autumn. What exhilaration there was, as
+those beautiful inland bays, one by one, unrolled like silver ribbons
+before us! and how all our sympathies went forth with the grand new ship
+about to be launched! How graceful and noble a thing she looked, as she
+sprang from the shore to the blue waters, like a human soul springing
+from life into immortality! How all our feelings went with her! how we
+longed to be with her, and a part of her--to go with her to India,
+China, or any where, so that we might rise and fall on the bosom of that
+magnificent ocean, and share a part of that glorified existence! That
+ocean! that blue, sparkling, heaving, mysterious ocean, with all the
+signs and wonders of heaven emblazoned on its bosom, and another world
+of mystery hidden beneath its waters! Who would not long to enjoy a
+freer communion, and rejoice in a prospect of days spent in unreserved
+fellowship with its grand and noble nature?
+
+Alas! what a contrast between all this poetry and the real prose fact of
+going to sea! No man, the proverb says, is a hero to his valet de
+chambre. Certainly, no poet, no hero, no inspired prophet, ever lost so
+much on near acquaintance as this same mystic, grandiloquent old Ocean.
+The one step from the sublime to the ridiculous is never taken with such
+alacrity as in a sea voyage.
+
+In the first place, it is a melancholy fact, but not the less true, that
+ship life is not at all fragrant; in short, particularly on a steamer,
+there is a most mournful combination of grease, steam, onions, and
+dinners in general, either past, present, or to come, which, floating
+invisibly in the atmosphere, strongly predisposes to that disgust of
+existence, which, in half an hour after sailing, begins to come upon
+you; that disgust, that strange, mysterious, ineffable sensation which
+steals slowly and inexplicably upon you; which makes every heaving
+billow, every white-capped wave, the ship, the people, the sight, taste,
+sound, and smell of every thing a matter of inexpressible loathing! Man
+cannot utter it.
+
+It is really amusing to watch the gradual progress of this epidemic; to
+see people stepping on board in the highest possible feather, alert,
+airy, nimble, parading the deck, chatty and conversable, on the best
+possible terms with themselves and mankind generally; the treacherous
+ship, meanwhile, undulating and heaving in the most graceful rises and
+pauses imaginable, like some voluptuous waltzer; and then to see one
+after another yielding to the mysterious spell!
+
+Your poet launches forth, "full of sentiment sublime as billows,"
+discoursing magnificently on the color of the waves and the glory of the
+clouds; but gradually he grows white about the mouth, gives sidelong
+looks towards the stairway; at last, with one desperate plunge, he sets,
+to rise no more!
+
+Here sits a stout gentleman, who looks as resolute as an oak log. "These
+things are much the effect of imagination," he tells you; "a little
+self-control and resolution," &c. Ah me! it is delightful, when these
+people, who are always talking about resolution, get caught on
+shipboard. As the backwoodsman said to the Mississippi River, about the
+steamboat, they "get their match." Our stout gentleman sits a quarter of
+an hour, upright as a palm tree, his back squared against the rails,
+pretending to be reading a paper; but a dismal look of disgust is
+settling down about his lips; the old sea and his will are evidently
+having a pitched battle. Ah, ha! there he goes for the stairway; says he
+has left a book in the cabin, but shoots by with a most suspicious
+velocity. You may fancy his finale.
+
+Then, of course, there are young ladies,--charming creatures,--who, in
+about ten minutes, are going to die, and are sure they shall die, and
+don't care if they do; whom anxious papas, or brothers, or lovers
+consign with all speed to those dismal lower regions, where the brisk
+chambermaid, who has been expecting them, seems to think their agonies
+and groans a regular part of the play.
+
+I had come on board thinking, in my simplicity, of a fortnight to be
+spent something like the fortnight on a trip to New Orleans, on one of
+our floating river palaces; that we should sit in our state rooms, read,
+sew, sketch, and chat; and accordingly I laid in a magnificent provision
+in the way of literature and divers matters of fancy work, with which to
+while away the time. Some last, airy touches, in the way of making up
+bows, disposing ribbons, and binding collarets, had been left to these
+long, leisure hours, as matters of amusement.
+
+Let me warn you, if you ever go to sea, you may as well omit all such
+preparations. Don't leave so much as the unlocking of a trunk to be done
+after sailing. In the few precious minutes when the ship stands still,
+before she weighs her anchor, set your house, that is to say, your state
+room, as much in order as if you were going to be hanged; place every
+thing in the most convenient position to be seized without trouble at a
+moment's notice; for be sure that in half an hour after sailing an
+infinite desperation will seize you, in which the grasshopper will be a
+burden. If any thing is in your trunk, it might almost as well be in the
+sea, for any practical probability of your getting to it.
+
+Moreover, let your toilet be eminently simple, for you will find the
+time coming when to button a cuff or arrange a ruff will be a matter of
+absolute despair. You lie disconsolate in your berth, only desiring to
+be let alone to die; and then, if you are told, as you always are, that
+"you mustn't give way," that "you must rouse yourself" and come on deck,
+you will appreciate the value of simple attire. With every thing in your
+berth dizzily swinging backwards and forwards, your bonnet, your cloak,
+your tippet, your gloves, all present so many discouraging
+impossibilities; knotted strings cannot be untied, and modes of
+fastening which seemed curious and convenient, when you had nothing else
+to do but fasten them, now look disgustingly impracticable.
+Nevertheless, your fate for the whole voyage depends upon your rousing
+yourself to get upon deck at first; to give up, then, is to be condemned
+to the Avernus, the Hades of the lower regions, for the rest of the
+voyage.
+
+Ah, _those_ lower regions!--the saloons--every couch and corner filled
+with prostrate, despairing forms, with pale cheeks, long, willowy hair
+and sunken eyes, groaning, sighing, and apostrophizing the Fates, and
+solemnly vowing between every lurch of the ship, that "you'll never
+catch them going to sea again, that's what you won't;" and then the
+bulletins from all the state rooms--"Mrs. A. is sick, and Miss B.
+sicker, and Miss C. almost dead, and Mrs. E., F., and G. declare that
+they shall give up." This threat of "giving up" is a standing resort of
+ladies in distressed circumstances; it is always very impressively
+pronounced, as if the result of earnest purpose; but how it is to be
+carried out practically, how ladies _do_ give up, and what general
+impression is made on creation when they do, has never yet appeared.
+Certainly the sea seems to care very little about the threat, for he
+goes on lurching all hands about just as freely afterwards as before.
+
+There are always some three or four in a hundred who escape all these
+evils. They are not sick, and they seem to be having a good time
+generally, and always meet you with "What a charming run we are having!
+Isn't it delightful?" and so on. If you have a turn for being
+disinterested, you can console your miseries by a view of their
+joyousness. Three or four of our ladies were of this happy order, and it
+was really refreshing to see them.
+
+For my part, I was less fortunate. I could not and would not give up and
+become one of the ghosts below, and so I managed, by keeping on deck and
+trying to act as if nothing was the matter, to lead a very uncertain and
+precarious existence, though with a most awful undertone of emotion,
+which seemed to make quite another thing of creation.
+
+I wonder that people who wanted to break the souls of heroes and martyrs
+never thought of sending them to sea and keeping them a little seasick.
+The dungeons of Olmutz, the leads of Venice, in short, all the naughty,
+wicked places that tyrants ever invented for bringing down the spirits
+of heroes, are nothing to the berth of a ship. Get Lafayette, Kossuth,
+or the noblest of woman, born, prostrate in a swinging, dizzy berth of
+one of these sea coops, called state rooms, and I'll warrant almost any
+compromise might be got out of them.
+
+Where in the world the soul goes to under such influences nobody knows;
+one would really think the sea tipped it all out of a man, just as it
+does the water out of his wash basin. The soul seems to be like one of
+the genii enclosed in a vase, in the Arabian Nights; now, it rises like
+a pillar of cloud, and floats over land and sea, buoyant, many-hued, and
+glorious; again, it goes down, down, subsiding into its copper vase, and
+the cover is clapped on, and there you are. A sea voyage is the best
+device for getting the soul back into its vase that I know of.
+
+But at night!--the beauties of a night on shipboard!--down in your
+berth, with the sea hissing and fizzing, gurgling and booming, within an
+inch of your ear; and then the steward conies along at twelve o'clock
+and puts out your light, and there you are! Jonah in the whale was not
+darker or more dismal. There, in profound ignorance and blindness, you
+lie, and feel yourself rolled upwards, and downwards, and sidewise, and
+all ways, like a cork in a tub of water; much such a sensation as one
+might suppose it to be, were one headed up in a barrel and thrown into
+the sea.
+
+Occasionally a wave comes with a thump against your ear, as if a great
+hammer were knocking on your barrel, to see that all within was safe and
+sound. Then you begin to think of krakens, and sharks, and porpoises,
+and sea serpents, and all the monstrous, slimy, cold, hobgoblin brood,
+who, perhaps, are your next door neighbors; and the old blue-haired
+Ocean whispers through the planks, "Here you are; I've got you. Your
+grand ship is my plaything. I can do what I like with it."
+
+Then you hear every kind of odd noise in the ship--creaking, straining,
+crunching, scraping, pounding, whistling, blowing off steam, each of
+which to your unpractised ear is significant of some impending
+catastrophe; you lie wide awake, listening with all your might, as if
+your watching did any good, till at last sleep overcomes you, and the
+morning light convinces you that nothing very particular has been the
+matter, and that all these frightful noises are only the necessary
+attendants of what is called a good run.
+
+Our voyage out was called "a good run." It was voted, unanimously, to be
+"an extraordinarily good passage," "a pleasant voyage;" yet the ship
+rocked the whole time from side to side with a steady, dizzy, continuous
+motion, like a great cradle. I had a new sympathy for babies, poor
+little things, who are rocked hours at a time without so much as a "by
+your leave" in the case. No wonder there are so many stupid people in
+the world.
+
+There is no place where killing time is so much of a systematic and
+avowed object as in one of these short runs. In a six months' voyage
+people give up to their situation, and make arrangements to live a
+regular life; but the ten days that now divide England and America are
+not long enough for any thing. The great question is how to get them
+off; they are set up, like tenpins, to be bowled at; and happy he whose
+ball prospers. People with strong heads, who can stand the incessant
+swing of the boat, may read or write. Then there is one's berth, a
+never-failing resort, where one may analyze at one's leisure the life
+and emotions of an oyster in the mud. Walking the deck is a means of
+getting off some half hours more. If a ship heaves in sight, or a
+porpoise tumbles up, or, better still, a whale spouts, it makes an
+immense sensation.
+
+Our favorite resort is by the old red smoke pipe of the steamer, which
+rises warm and luminous as a sort of tower of defence. The wind must
+blow an uncommon variety of ways at once when you cannot find a
+sheltered side, as well as a place to warm your feet. In fact, the old
+smoke pipe is the domestic hearth of the ship; there, with the double
+convenience of warmth and fresh air, you can sit by the railing, and,
+looking down, command the prospect of the cook's offices, the cow house,
+pantries, &c.
+
+Our cook has specially interested me--a tall, slender, melancholy man,
+with a watery-blue eye, a patient, dejected visage, like an individual
+weary of the storms and commotions of life, and thoroughly impressed
+with the vanity of human wishes. I sit there hour after hour watching
+him, and it is evident that he performs all his duties in this frame of
+sad composure. Now I see him resignedly stuffing a turkey, anon
+compounding a sauce, or mournfully making little ripples in the crust of
+a tart; but all is done under an evident sense that it is of no use
+trying.
+
+Many complaints have been made of our coffee since we have been on
+board, which, to say the truth, has been as unsettled as most of the
+social questions of our day, and, perhaps, for that reason quite as
+generally unpalatable; but since I have seen our cook, I am quite
+persuaded that the coffee, like other works of great artists, has
+borrowed the hues of its maker's mind. I think I hear him soliloquize
+over it--"To what purpose is coffee?--of what avail tea?--thick or
+clear?--all is passing away--a little egg, or fish skin, more or less,
+what are they?" and so we get melancholy coffee and tea, owing to our
+philosophic cook.
+
+After dinner I watch him as he washes dishes: he hangs up a whole row of
+tin; the ship gives a lurch, and knocks them all down. He looks as if it
+was just what he expected. "Such is life!" he says, as he pursues a
+frisky tin pan in one direction, and arrests the gambols of the ladle in
+another; while the wicked sea, meanwhile, with another lurch, is
+upsetting all his dishwater. I can see how these daily trials, this
+performing of most delicate and complicated gastronomic operations in
+the midst of such unsteady, unsettled circumstances, have gradually
+given this poor soul a despair of living, and brought him into this
+state of philosophic melancholy. Just as Xantippe made a sage of
+Socrates, this whisky, frisky, stormy ship life has made a sage of our
+cook. Meanwhile, not to do him injustice, let it be recorded, that in
+all dishes which require grave conviction and steady perseverance,
+rather than hope and inspiration, he is eminently successful. Our table
+excels in viands of a reflective and solemn character; mighty rounds of
+beef, vast saddles of mutton, and the whole tribe of meats in general,
+come on in a superior style. English plum pudding, a weighty and serious
+performance, is exhibited in first-rate order. The jellies want
+lightness,--but that is to be expected.
+
+I admire the thorough order and system with which every thing is done on
+these ships. One day, when the servants came round, as they do at a
+certain time after dinner, and screwed up the shelf of decanters and
+bottles out of our reach, a German gentleman remarked, "Ah, that's
+always the way on English ships; every thing done at such a time,
+without saying 'by your leave,' If it had been on an American ship now,
+he would have said, 'Gentlemen, are you ready to have this shelf
+raised?'"
+
+No doubt this remark is true and extends to a good many other things;
+but in a ship in the middle of the ocean, when the least confusion or
+irregularity in certain cases might be destruction to all on board, it
+does inspire confidence to see that there is even in the minutest things
+a strong and steady system, that goes on without saying "by your leave."
+Even the rigidness with which lights are all extinguished at twelve
+o'clock, though it is very hard in some cases, still gives you
+confidence in the watchfulness and care with which all on board is
+conducted.
+
+On Sunday there was a service. We went into the cabin, and saw prayer
+books arranged at regular intervals, and soon a procession of the
+sailors neatly dressed filed in and took their places, together with
+such passengers as felt disposed, and the order of morning prayer was
+read. The sailors all looked serious and attentive. I could not but
+think that this feature of the management of her majesty's ships was a
+good one, and worthy of imitation. To be sure, one can say it is only a
+form. Granted; but is not a serious, respectful _form_ of religion
+better than nothing? Besides, I am not willing to think that these
+intelligent-looking sailors could listen to all those devout sentiments
+expressed in the prayers, and the holy truths embodied in the passages
+of Scripture, and not gain something from it. It is bad to have only
+_the form_ of religion, but not so bad as to have neither the form nor
+the fact.
+
+When the ship has been out about eight days, an evident bettering of
+spirits and condition obtains among the passengers. Many of the sick
+ones take heart, and appear again among the walks and ways of men; the
+ladies assemble in little knots, and talk of getting on shore. The more
+knowing ones, who have travelled before, embrace this opportunity to
+show their knowledge of life by telling the new hands all sorts of
+hobgoblin stories about the custom house officers and the difficulties
+of getting landed in England. It is a curious fact, that old travellers
+generally seem to take this particular delight in striking consternation
+into younger ones.
+
+"You'll have all your daguerreotypes taken away," says one lady, who, in
+right of having crossed the ocean nine times, is entitled to speak _ex
+cathedra_ on the subject.
+
+"All our daguerreotypes!" shriek four or five at once. "Pray tell, what
+for?"
+
+"They _will_ do it," says the knowing lady, with an awful nod; "unless
+you hide them, and all your books, they'll burn up--"
+
+"Burn our books!" exclaim the circle. "O, dreadful! What do they do that
+for?"
+
+"They're very particular always to burn up all your books. I knew a lady
+who had a dozen burned," says the wise one.
+
+"Dear me! will they take our _dresses_?" says a young lady, with
+increasing alarm.
+
+"No, but they'll pull every thing out, and tumble them well over, I can
+tell you."
+
+"How horrid!"
+
+An old lady, who has been very sick all the way, is revived by this
+appalling intelligence.
+
+"I hope they won't tumble over my _caps!_" she exclaims.
+
+"Yes, they will have every thing out on deck," says the lady, delighted
+with the increasing sensation. "I tell you you don't know these custom
+house officers."
+
+"It's too bad!" "It's dreadful!" "How horrid!" exclaim all.
+
+"I shall put my best things in my pocket," exclaims one. "They don't
+search our pockets, do they?"
+
+"Well, no, not here; but I tell you they'll search your _pockets_ at
+Antwerp and Brussels," says the lady.
+
+Somebody catches the sound, and flies off into the state rooms with the
+intelligence that "the custom house officers are so dreadful--they rip
+open your trunks, pull out all your things, burn your books, take away
+your daguerreotypes, and even search your pockets;" and a row of groans
+is heard ascending from the row of state rooms, as all begin to revolve
+what they have in their trunks, and what they are to do in this
+emergency.
+
+"Pray tell me," said I to a gentlemanly man, who had crossed four or
+five times, "is there really so much annoyance at the custom house?"
+
+"Annoyance, ma'am? No, not the slightest."
+
+"But do they really turn out the contents of the trunks, and take away
+people's daguerreotypes, and burn their books?"
+
+"Nothing of the kind, ma'am. I apprehend no difficulty. I never had any.
+There are a few articles on which duty is charged. I have a case of
+cigars, for instance; I shall show them to the custom house officer, and
+pay the duty. If a person seems disposed to be fair, there is no
+difficulty. The examination of ladies' trunks is merely nominal; nothing
+is deranged."
+
+So it proved. We arrived on Sunday morning; the custom house officers,
+very gentlemanly men, came on board; our luggage was all set out, and
+passed through a rapid examination, which in many cases amounted only to
+opening the trunk and shutting it, and all was over. The whole ceremony
+did not occupy two hours.
+
+So ends this letter. You shall hear further how we landed at some future
+time.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER II.
+
+
+DEAR FATHER:--
+
+It was on Sunday morning that we first came in sight of land. The day
+was one of a thousand--clear, calm, and bright. It is one of those
+strange, throbbing feelings, that come only once in a while in life;
+this waking up to find an ocean crossed and long-lost land restored
+again in another hemisphere; something like what we should suppose might
+be the thrill of awakening from life to immortality, and all the wonders
+of the world unknown. That low, green line of land in the horizon is
+Ireland; and we, with water smooth as a lake and sails furled, are
+running within a mile of the shore. Every body on deck, full of spirits
+and expectation, busy as can be looking through spyglasses, and
+exclaiming at every object on shore,--
+
+"Look! there's Skibareen, where the worst of the famine was," says one.
+
+"Look! that's a ruined Martello tower," says another.
+
+We new voyagers, who had never seen any ruin more imposing than that of
+a cow house, and, of course, were ravenous for old towers, were now
+quite wide awake, but were disappointed to learn that these were only
+custom house rendezvous. Here is the county of Cork. Some one calls
+out,--
+
+"There is O'Connell's house;" and a warm dispute ensues whether a large
+mansion, with a stone chapel by it, answers to that name. At all events
+the region looks desolate enough, and they say the natives of it are
+almost savages. A passenger remarks, that "O'Connell never really did
+any thing for the Irish, but lived on his capacity for exciting their
+enthusiasm." Thereupon another expresses great contempt for the Irish
+who could be so taken in. Nevertheless, the capability of a
+disinterested enthusiasm is, on the whole, a nobler property of a human
+being than a shrewd self-interest. I like the Irish all the better for
+it.
+
+Now we pass Kinsale lighthouse; there is the spot where the Albion was
+wrecked. It is a bare, frowning cliff, with walls of rock rising
+perpendicularly out of the sea. Now, to be sure, the sea smiles and
+sparkles around the base of it, as gently as if it never could storm;
+yet under other skies, and with a fierce south-east wind, how the waves
+would pour in here! Woe then to the distressed and rudderless vessel
+that drifts towards those fatal rocks! This gives the outmost and
+boldest view of the point.
+
+[Illustration: View East of Kinsale.]
+
+The Albion struck just round the left of the point, where the rock rises
+perpendicularly out of the sea. I well remember, when a child, of the
+newspapers being filled with the dreadful story of the wreck of the ship
+Albion--how for hours, rudderless and helpless, they saw themselves
+driving with inevitable certainty against these pitiless rocks; and how,
+in the last struggle, one human being after another was dashed against
+them in helpless agony.
+
+What an infinite deal of misery results from man's helplessness and
+ignorance and nature's inflexibility in this one matter of crossing the
+ocean! What agonies of prayer there were during all the long hours that
+this ship was driving straight on to these fatal rocks, all to no
+purpose! It struck and crushed just the same. Surely, without the
+revelation of God in Jesus, who could believe in the divine goodness? I
+do not wonder the old Greeks so often spoke of their gods as cruel, and
+believed the universe was governed by a remorseless and inexorable fate.
+Who would come to any other conclusion, except from the pages of the
+Bible?
+
+But we have sailed far past Kinsale point. Now blue and shadowy loom up
+the distant form of the Youghal Mountains, (pronounced _Yoole_.) The
+surface of the water is alive with fishing boats, spreading their white
+wings and skimming about like so many moth millers.
+
+About nine o'clock we were crossing the sand bar, which lies at the
+mouth of the Mersey River, running up towards Liverpool. Our signal
+pennants are fluttering at the mast head, pilot full of energy on one
+wheel house, and a man casting the lead on the other.
+
+"By the mark, five," says the man. The pilot, with all his energy, is
+telegraphing to the steersman. This is a very close and complicated
+piece of navigation, I should think, this running up the Mersey, for
+every moment we are passing some kind of a signal token, which warns off
+from some shoal. Here is a bell buoy, where the waves keep the bell
+always tolling; here, a buoyant lighthouse; and "See there, those
+shoals, how pokerish they look!" says one of the passengers, pointing to
+the foam on our starboard bow. All is bustle, animation, exultation. Now
+float out the American stars and stripes on our bow.
+
+Before us lies the great city of Liverpool. No old Cathedral, no
+castles, a real New Yorkish place.
+
+"There, that's the fort," cries one. Bang, bang, go the two guns from
+our forward gangway.
+
+"I wonder if they will fire from the fort," says another.
+
+"How green that grass looks!" says a third; "and what pretty cottages!"
+
+"All modern, though," says somebody, in tones of disappointment. Now we
+are passing the Victoria Dock. Bang, bang, again. We are in a forest of
+ships of all nations; their masts bristling like the tall pines in
+Maine; their many colored flags streaming like the forest leaves in
+autumn.
+
+"Hark," says one; "there's, a chime of bells from the city; how sweet! I
+had quite forgotten it was Sunday."
+
+Here we cast anchor, and the small steam tender conies puffing
+alongside. Now for the custom house officers. State rooms, holds, and
+cabins must all give up their trunks; a general muster among the
+baggage, and passenger after passenger comes forward as their names are
+called, much as follows: "Snooks." "Here, sir." "Any thing contraband
+here, Mr. Snooks? Any cigars, tobacco, &c.?" "Nothing, sir."
+
+A little unlocking, a little fumbling. "Shut up; all right; ticket
+here." And a little man pastes on each article a slip of paper, with the
+royal arms of England and the magical letters V.R., to remind all men
+that they have come into a country where a lady reigns, and of course
+must behave themselves as prettily as they can.
+
+We were inquiring of some friends for the most convenient hotel, when we
+found the son of Mr. Cropper, of Dingle Bank, waiting in the cabin, to
+take us with him to their hospitable abode. In a few moments after the
+baggage had been examined, we all bade adieu to the old ship, and went
+on board the little steam tender, which carries passengers up to the
+city.
+
+This Mersey River would be a very beautiful one, if it were not so dingy
+and muddy. As we are sailing up in the tender towards Liverpool, I
+deplore the circumstance feelingly. "What does make this river so
+muddy?"
+
+"O," says a bystander, "don't you know that
+
+  'The quality of mercy is not strained'?"
+
+And now we are fairly alongside the shore, and we are soon going to set
+our foot on the land of Old England.
+
+Say what we will, an American, particularly a New Englander, can never
+approach the old country without a kind of thrill and pulsation of
+kindred. Its history for two centuries was our history. Its literature,
+laws, and language are our literature, laws, and language. Spenser,
+Shakspeare, Bacon, Milton, were a glorious inheritance, which we share
+in common. Our very life-blood is English life-blood. It is Anglo-Saxon
+vigor that is spreading our country from Atlantic to Pacific, and
+leading on a new era in the world's development. America is a tall,
+sightly young shoot, that has grown from the old royal oak of England;
+divided from its parent root, it has shot up in new, rich soil, and
+under genial, brilliant skies, and therefore takes on a new type of
+growth and foliage, but the sap in it is the same.
+
+I had an early opportunity of making acquaintance with my English
+brethren; for, much to my astonishment, I found quite a crowd on the
+wharf, and we walked up to our carriage through a long lane of people,
+bowing, and looking very glad to see us. When I came to get into the
+hack it was surrounded by more faces than I could count. They stood
+very quietly, and looked very kindly, though evidently very much
+determined to look. Something prevented the hack from moving on; so the
+interview was prolonged for some time. I therefore took occasion to
+remark the very fair, pure complexions, the clear eyes, and the general
+air of health and vigor, which seem to characterize our brethren and
+sisters of the island. There seemed to be no occasion to ask them, how
+they did, as they were evidently quite well. Indeed, this air of health
+is one of the most striking things when one lands in England.
+
+They were not burly, red-faced, and stout, as I had sometimes conceived
+of the English people, but just full enough to suggest the idea of vigor
+and health. The presence of so many healthy, rosy people looking at me,
+all reduced as I was, first by land and then by sea sickness, made me
+feel myself more withered and forlorn than ever. But there was an
+earnestness and a depth of kind feeling in some of the faces, which I
+shall long remember. It seemed as if I had not only touched the English
+shore, but felt the English heart.
+
+Our carriage at last drove on, taking us through Liverpool, and a mile
+or two out, and at length wound its way along the gravel paths of a
+beautiful little retreat, on the banks of the Mersey, called the
+"Dingle." It opened to my eyes like a paradise, all wearied as I was
+with the tossing of the sea. I have since become familiar with these
+beautiful little spots, which are so common in England; but now all was
+entirely new to me.
+
+We rode by shining clumps of the Portugal laurel, a beautiful evergreen,
+much resembling our mountain rhododendron; then there was the prickly,
+polished, dark-green holly, which I had never seen before, but which
+is, certainly, one of the most perfect of shrubs. The turf was of that
+soft, dazzling green, and had that peculiar velvet-like smoothness,
+which seem characteristic of England. We stopped at last before the door
+of a cottage, whose porch was overgrown with ivy. From that moment I
+ceased to feel myself a stranger in England. I cannot tell you how
+delightful to me, dizzy and weary as I was, was the first sight of the
+chamber of reception which had been prepared for us. No item of cozy
+comfort that one could desire was omitted. The sofa and easy chair
+wheeled up before a cheerful coal fire, a bright little teakettle
+steaming in front of the grate, a table with a beautiful vase of
+flowers, books, and writing apparatus, and kind friends with words full
+of affectionate cheer,--all these made me feel at home in a moment.
+
+The hospitality of England has become famous in the world, and, I think,
+with reason. I doubt not there is just as much hospitable feeling in
+other countries; but in England the matter of coziness and home comfort
+has been so studied, and matured, and reduced to system, that they
+really have it in their power to effect more, towards making their
+guests comfortable, than perhaps any other people.
+
+After a short season allotted to changing our ship garments and for
+rest, we found ourselves seated at the dinner table. While dining, the
+sister-in-law of our friends came in from the next door, to exchange a
+word or two of welcome, and invite us to breakfast with them the
+following morning.
+
+Between all the excitements of landing, and meeting so many new faces,
+and the remains of the dizzy motion of the ship, which still haunted me,
+I found it impossible to close my eyes to sleep that first night till
+the dim gray of dawn. I got up as soon as it was light, and looked out
+of the window; and as my eyes fell on the luxuriant, ivy-covered porch,
+the clumps of shining, dark-green holly bushes, I said to myself, "Ah,
+really, this is England!"
+
+I never saw any plant that struck me as more beautiful than this holly.
+It is a dense shrub growing from six to eight feet high, with a thickly
+varnished leaf of green. The outline of the leaf is something like this.
+I do not believe it can ever come to a state of perfect development
+under the fierce alternations of heat and cold which obtain in our New
+England climate, though it grows in the Southern States. It is one of
+the symbolical shrubs of England, probably because its bright green in
+winter makes it so splendid a Christmas decoration. A little bird sat
+twittering on one of the sprays. He had a bright red breast, and seemed
+evidently to consider himself of good blood and family, with the best
+reason, as I afterwards learned, since he was no other than the
+identical robin redbreast renowned in song and story; undoubtedly a
+lineal descendant of that very cock robin whose death and burial form so
+vivid a portion of our childish literature.
+
+I must tell you, then, as one of the first remarks on matters and things
+here in England, that "robin redbreast" is not at all the fellow we in
+America take him to be. The character who flourishes under that name
+among us is quite a different bird; he is twice as large, and has
+altogether a different air, and as he sits up with military erectness on
+a rail fence or stump, shows not even a family likeness to his
+diminutive English namesake. Well, of course, robin over here will claim
+to have the real family estate and title, since he lives in a country
+where such matters are understood and looked into. Our robin is probably
+some fourth cousin, who, like others, has struck out a new course for
+himself in America, and thrives upon it.
+
+We hurried to dress, remembering our engagements to breakfast this
+morning with a brother of our host, whose cottage stands on the same
+ground, within a few steps of our own. I had not the slightest idea of
+what the English mean by a breakfast, and therefore went in all
+innocence, supposing that I should see nobody but the family circle of
+my acquaintances. Quite to my astonishment, I found a party of between
+thirty and forty people. Ladies sitting with their bonnets on, as in a
+morning call. It was impossible, however, to feel more than a momentary
+embarrassment in the friendly warmth and cordiality of the circle by
+whom we were surrounded.
+
+The English are called cold and stiff in their manners; I had always
+heard they were so, but I certainly saw nothing of it here. A circle of
+family relatives could not have received us with more warmth and
+kindness. The remark which I made mentally, as my eye passed around the
+circle, was--Why, these people are just like home; they look like us,
+and the tone of sentiment and feeling is precisely such as I have been
+accustomed to; I mean with the exception of the antislavery question.
+
+That question has, from the very first, been, in England, a deeply
+religious movement. It was conceived and carried on by men of devotional
+habits, in the same spirit in which the work of foreign missions was
+undertaken in our own country; by just such earnest, self-denying,
+devout men as Samuel J. Mills and Jeremiah Evarts.
+
+It was encountered by the same contempt and opposition, in the outset,
+from men of merely worldly habits and principles; and to this day it
+retains that hold on the devotional mind of the English nation that the
+foreign mission cause does in America.
+
+Liverpool was at first to the antislavery cause nearly what New York has
+been with us. Its commercial interests were largely implicated in the
+slave trade, and the virulence of opposition towards the first movers of
+the antislavery reform in Liverpool was about as great as it is now
+against abolitionists in Charleston.
+
+When Clarkson first came here to prosecute his inquiries into the
+subject, a mob collected around him, and endeavored to throw him off the
+dock into the water; he was rescued by a gentleman, some of whose
+descendants I met on this occasion.
+
+The father of our host, Mr. Cropper, was one of the first and most
+efficient supporters of the cause in Liverpool; and the whole circle was
+composed of those who had taken a deep interest in that struggle. The
+wife of our host was the daughter of the celebrated Lord Chief Justice
+Denman, a man who, for many years, stood unrivalled, at the head of the
+legal mind in England, and who, with a generous ardor seldom equalled,
+devoted all his energies to this sacred cause.
+
+When the publication of Uncle Tom's Cabin turned the attention of the
+British public to the existing horrors of slavery in America, some
+palliations of the system appeared in English papers. Lord Denman,
+though then in delicate health and advanced years, wrote a series of
+letters upon the subject--an exertion which entirely prostrated his
+before feeble health. In one of the addresses made at table, a very
+feeling allusion was made to Lord Denman's labors, and also to those of
+the honored father of the two Messrs. Cropper.
+
+As breakfast parties are things which we do not have in America, perhaps
+mother would like to know just how they are managed. The hour is
+generally somewhere between nine and twelve, and the whole idea and
+spirit of the thing is that of an informal and social gathering. Ladies
+keep their bonnets on, and are not dressed in full toilet. On this
+occasion we sat and chatted together socially till the whole party was
+assembled in the drawing room, and then breakfast was announced. Each
+gentleman had a lady assigned him, and we walked into the dining room,
+where stood the tables tastefully adorned with flowers, and spread with
+an abundant cold collation, while tea and coffee were passed round by
+servants. In each plate was a card, containing the name of the person
+for whom it was designed. I took my place by the side of the Rev. Dr.
+McNiel, one of the most celebrated clergymen of the established church
+in Liverpool.
+
+The conversation was flowing, free, and friendly. The old reminiscences
+of the antislavery conflict in England were touchingly recalled, and the
+warmest sympathy was expressed for those in America who are carrying on
+the same cause.
+
+In one thing I was most agreeably disappointed. I had been told that the
+Christians of England were intolerant and unreasonable in their opinions
+on this subject; that they could not be made to understand the peculiar
+difficulties which beset it in America, and that they therefore made no
+distinction and no allowance in their censures. All this I found, so
+far as this circle were concerned, to be strikingly untrue. They
+appeared to be peculiarly affectionate in their feelings as regarded our
+country; to have the highest appreciation of, and the deepest sympathy
+with, our religious community, and to be extremely desirous to assist us
+in our difficulties. I also found them remarkably well informed upon the
+subject. They keep their eyes upon our papers, our public documents and
+speeches in Congress, and are as well advised in regard to the progress
+of the moral conflict as our Foreign Missionary Society is with the
+state of affairs in Hindostan and Burmah.
+
+Several present spoke of the part which England originally had in
+planting slavery in America, as placing English Christians under a
+solemn responsibility to bring every possible moral influence to bear
+for its extinction. Nevertheless, they seem to be the farthest possible
+from an unkind or denunciatory spirit, even towards those most deeply
+implicated. The remarks made by Dr. McNiel to me were a fair sample of
+the spirit and attitude of all present.
+
+"I have been trying, Mrs. S.," he said, "to bring my mind into the
+attitude of those Christians at the south who defend the institution of
+slavery. There are _real_ Christians there who do this--are there not?"
+
+I replied, that undoubtedly there were some most amiable and Christian
+people who defend slavery on principle, just as there had been some to
+defend every form of despotism.
+
+"Do give me some idea of the views they take; it is something to me so
+inconceivable. I am utterly at a loss how it can be made in any way
+plausible."
+
+I then stated that the most plausible view, and that which seemed to
+have the most force with good men, was one which represented the
+institution of slavery as a sort of wardship or guardian relation, by
+which an inferior race were brought under the watch and care of a
+superior race to be instructed in Christianity.
+
+He then inquired if there was any system of religious instruction
+actually pursued.
+
+In reply to this, I gave him some sketch of the operations for the
+religious instruction of the negroes, which had been carried on by the
+Presbyterian and other denominations. I remarked that many good people
+who do not take very extended views, fixing their attention chiefly on
+the efforts which they are making for the religious instruction of
+slaves, are blind to the sin and injustice of allowing their legal
+position to remain what it is.
+
+"But how do they shut their eyes to the various cruelties of the
+system,--the separation of families--the domestic slave trade?"
+
+I replied, "In part, by not inquiring into them. The best kind of people
+are, in general, those who _know_ least of the cruelties of the system;
+they never witness them. As in the city of London or Liverpool there may
+be an amount of crime and suffering which many residents may live years
+without seeing or knowing, so it is in the slave states."
+
+Every person present appeared to be in that softened and charitable
+frame of mind which disposed them to make every allowance for the
+situation of Christians so peculiarly tempted, while, at the same time,
+there was the most earnest concern, in view of the dishonor brought upon
+Christianity by the defence of such a system.
+
+One other thing I noticed, which was an agreeable disappointment to me.
+I had been told that there was no social intercourse between the
+established church and dissenters. In this party, however, were people
+of many different denominations. Our host belongs to the established
+church; his brother, with whom we are visiting, is a Baptist, and their
+father was a Friend; and there appeared to be the utmost social
+cordiality. Whether I shall find this uniformly the case will appear in
+time.
+
+After the breakfast party was over, I found at the door an array of
+children of the poor, belonging to a school kept under the
+superintendence of Mrs. E. Cropper, and called, as is customary here, a
+ragged school. The children, however, were any thing but ragged, being
+tidily dressed, remarkably clean, with glowing cheeks and bright eyes. I
+must say, so far as I have seen them, English children have a much
+healthier appearance than those of America. By the side of their bright
+bloom ours look pale and faded.
+
+Another school of the same kind is kept in this neighborhood, under the
+auspices of Sir George Stephen, a conspicuous advocate of the
+antislavery cause.
+
+I thought the fair patroness of this school seemed not a little
+delighted with the appearance of her proteges, as they sung, with great
+enthusiasm, Jane Taylor's hymn, commencing,--
+
+  "I thank the goodness and the grace
+    That on my birth have smiled,
+  And made me in these Christian days
+    A happy English child."
+
+All the little rogues were quite familiar with Topsy and Eva, and _au
+fait_ in the fortunes of Uncle Tom; so that, being introduced as the
+maternal relative of these characters, I seemed to find favor in their
+eyes. And when one of the speakers congratulated them that they were
+born in a land where no child could be bought or sold, they responded
+with enthusiastic cheers--cheers which made me feel rather sad; but
+still I could not quarrel with English people for taking all the pride
+and all the comfort which this inspiriting truth can convey.
+
+They had a hard enough struggle in rooting up the old weed of slavery,
+to justify them in rejoicing in their freedom. Well, the day will come
+in America, as I trust, when as much can be said for us.
+
+After the children were gone came a succession of calls; some from very
+aged people, the veterans of the old antislavery cause. I was astonished
+and overwhelmed by the fervor of feeling some of them manifested; there
+seemed to be something almost prophetic in the enthusiasm with which
+they expressed their hope of our final success in America. This
+excitement, though very pleasant, was wearisome, and I was glad of an
+opportunity after dinner to rest myself, by rambling uninterrupted, with
+my friends, through the beautiful grounds of the Dingle.
+
+Two nice little boys were my squires on this occasion, one of whom, a
+sturdy little fellow, on being asked his name, gave it to me in full as
+Joseph Babington Macaulay, and I learned that his mother, by a former
+marriage, had been the wife of Macaulay's brother. Uncle Tom Macaulay, I
+found, was a favorite character with the young people. Master Harry
+conducted me through the walks to the conservatories, all brilliant with
+azaleas and all sorts of flowers, and then through a long walk on the
+banks of the Mersey.
+
+Here the wild flowers attracted my attention, as being so different
+from those of our own country. Their daisy is not our flower, with its
+wide, plaited ruff and yellow centre. The English daisy is
+
+  "The wee modest crimson-tipped flower,"
+
+which Burns celebrates. It is what we raise in greenhouses, and call the
+mountain daisy. Its effect, growing profusely about fields and grass
+plats, is very beautiful.
+
+We read much, among the poets, of the primrose,
+
+  "Earliest daughter of the Spring."
+
+This flower is one, also, which we cultivate in gardens to some extent.
+The outline of it is as follows: The hue a delicate straw color; it
+grows in tufts in shady places, and has a pure, serious look, which
+reminds one of the line of Shakspeare--
+
+  "Pale primroses, which die unmarried."
+
+It has also the faintest and most ethereal perfume,--a perfume that
+seems to come and go in the air like music; and you perceive it at a
+little distance from a tuft of them, when you would not if you gathered
+and smelled them. On the whole, the primrose is a poet's and a painter's
+flower. An artist's eye would notice an exquisite harmony between the
+yellow-green hue of its leaves and the tint of its blossoms. I do not
+wonder that it has been so great a favorite among the poets. It is just
+such a flower as Mozart and Raphael would have loved.
+
+Then there is the bluebell, a bulb, which also grows in deep shades. It
+is a little purple bell, with a narrow green leaf, like a ribbon. We
+often read in English stories, of the gorse and furze; these are two
+names for the same plant, a low bush, with strong, prickly leaves,
+growing much like a juniper. The contrast of its very brilliant yellow,
+pea-shaped blossoms, with the dark green of its leaves, is very
+beautiful. It grows here in hedges and on commons, and is thought rather
+a plebeian affair. I think it would make quite an addition to our garden
+shrubbery. Possibly it might make as much sensation with us as our
+mullein does in foreign greenhouses.
+
+After rambling a while, we came to a beautiful summer house, placed in a
+retired spot, so as to command a view of the Mersey River. I think they
+told me that it was Lord Denman's favorite seat. There we sat down, and
+in common with the young gentlemen and ladies of the family, had quite a
+pleasant talk together. Among other things we talked about the question
+which is now agitating the public mind a good deal,--Whether it is
+expedient to open the Crystal Palace to the people on Sunday. They said
+that this course was much urged by some philanthropists, on the ground
+that it was the only day when the working classes could find any leisure
+to visit it, and that it seemed hard to shut them out entirely from all
+the opportunities and advantages which they might thus derive; that to
+exclude the laborer from recreation on the Sabbath, was the same as
+saying that he should never have any recreation. I asked, why the
+philanthropists could not urge employers to give their workmen a part of
+Saturday for this purpose; as it seemed to me unchristian to drive trade
+so that the laboring man had no time but Sunday for intellectual and
+social recreation. We rather came to the conclusion that this was the
+right course; whether the people of England will, is quite another
+matter.
+
+The grounds of the Dingle embrace three cottages; those of the two
+Messrs. Cropper, and that of a son, who is married to a daughter of Dr.
+Arnold. I rather think this way of relatives living together is more
+common here in England than it is in America; and there is more idea of
+home permanence connected with the family dwelling-place than with us,
+where the country is so wide, and causes of change and removal so
+frequent. A man builds a house in England with the expectation of living
+in it and leaving it to his children; while we shed our houses in
+America as easily as a snail does his shell. We live a while in Boston,
+and then a while in New York, and then, perhaps, turn up at Cincinnati.
+Scarcely any body with us is living where they expect to live and die.
+The man that dies in the house he was born in is a wonder. There is
+something pleasant in the permanence and repose of the English family
+estate, which we, in America, know very little of. All which is apropos
+to our having finished our walk, and got back to the ivy-covered porch
+again.
+
+The next day at breakfast, it was arranged that we should take a drive
+out to Speke Hall, an old mansion, which is considered a fine specimen
+of ancient house architecture. So the carriage was at the door. It was
+a cool, breezy, April morning, but there was an abundance of wrappers
+and carriage blankets provided to keep us comfortable. I must say, by
+the by, that English housekeepers are bountiful in their provision for
+carriage comfort. Every household has a store of warm, loose over
+garments, which are offered, if needed, to the guests; and each carriage
+is provided with one or two blankets, manufactured and sold expressly
+for this use, to envelope one's feet and limbs; besides all which,
+should the weather be cold, comes out a long stone reservoir, made flat
+on both sides, and filled with hot water, for foot stools. This is an
+improvement on the primitive simplicity of hot bricks, and even on the
+tin foot stove, which has nourished in New England.
+
+Being thus provided with all things necessary for comfort, we rattled
+merrily away, and I, remembering that I was in England, kept my eyes
+wide open to see what I could see. The hedges of the fields were just
+budding, and the green showed itself on them, like a thin gauze veil.
+These hedges are not all so well kept and trimmed as I expected to find
+them. Some, it is true, are cut very carefully; these are generally
+hedges to ornamental grounds; but many of those which separate the
+fields straggle and sprawl, and have some high bushes and some low ones,
+and, in short, are no more like a hedge than many rows of bushes that we
+have at home. But such as they are, they are the only dividing lines of
+the fields, and it is certainly a more picturesque mode of division than
+our stone or worm fences. Outside of every hedge, towards the street,
+there is generally a ditch, and at the bottom of the hedge is the
+favorite nestling-place for all sorts of wild flowers. I remember
+reading in stories about children trying to crawl through a gap in the
+hedge to get at flowers, and tumbling into a ditch on the other side,
+and I now saw exactly how they could do it.
+
+As we drive we pass by many beautiful establishments, about of the
+quality of our handsomest country houses, but whose grounds are kept
+with a precision and exactness rarely to be seen among us. We cannot get
+the gardeners who are qualified to do it; and if we could, the
+painstaking, slow way of proceeding, and the habit of creeping
+thoroughness, which are necessary to accomplish such results, die out in
+America. Nevertheless, such grounds are exceedingly beautiful to look
+upon, and I was much obliged to the owners of these places for keeping
+their gates hospitably open, as seems to be the custom here.
+
+After a drive of seven or eight miles, we alighted in front of Speke
+Hall. This house is a specimen of the old fortified houses of England,
+and was once fitted up with a moat and drawbridge, all in approved
+feudal style. It was built somewhere about the year 1500. The sometime
+moat was now full of smooth, green grass, and the drawbridge no longer
+remains.
+
+This was the first really old thing that we had seen since our arrival
+in England. We came up first to a low, arched, stone door, and knocked
+with a great old-fashioned knocker; this brought no answer but a treble
+and bass duet from a couple of dogs inside; so we opened the door, and
+saw a square court, paved with round stones, and a dark, solitary yew
+tree in the centre. Here in England, I think, they have vegetable
+creations made on purpose to go with old, dusky buildings; and this yew
+tree is one of them. It has altogether a most goblin-like, bewitched
+air, with its dusky black leaves and ragged branches, throwing
+themselves straight out with odd twists and angular lines, and might put
+one in mind of an old raven with some of his feathers pulled out, or a
+black cat with her hair stroked the wrong way, or any other strange,
+uncanny thing. Besides this they live almost forever; for when they have
+grown so old that any respectable tree ought to be thinking of dying,
+they only take another twist, and so live on another hundred years. I
+saw some in England seven hundred years old, and they had grown queerer
+every century. It is a species of evergreen, and its leaf resembles our
+hemlock, only it is longer. This sprig gives you some idea of its
+general form. It is always planted about churches and graveyards; a kind
+of dismal emblem of immortality. This sepulchral old tree and the bass
+and treble dogs were the only occupants of the court. One of these, a
+great surly mastiff, barked out of his kennel on one side, and the
+other, a little wiry terrier, out of his on the opposite side, and both
+strained on their chains, as if they would enjoy making even more
+decided demonstrations if they could.
+
+There was an aged, mossy fountain for holy water by the side of the
+wall, in which some weeds were growing. A door in the house was soon
+opened by a decent-looking serving woman, to whom we communicated our
+desire to see the hall.
+
+We were shown into a large dining hall with a stone floor, wainscoted
+with carved oak, almost as black as ebony. There were some pious
+sentences and moral reflections inscribed in old English text, carved
+over the doors, and like a cornice round the ceiling, which was also of
+carved oak. Their general drift was, to say that life is short, and to
+call for watchfulness and prayer. The fireplace of the hall yawned like
+a great cavern, and nothing else, one would think, than a cart load of
+western sycamores could have supplied an appropriate fire. A great
+two-handed sword of some ancestor hung over the fireplace. On taking it
+down it reached to C----'s shoulder, who, you know, is six feet high.
+
+We went into a sort of sitting room, and looked out through a window,
+latticed with little diamond panes, upon a garden wildly beautiful. The
+lattice was all wreathed round with jessamines. The furniture of this
+room was modern, and it seemed the more unique from its contrast with
+the old architecture.
+
+We went up stairs to see the chambers, and passed through a long,
+narrow, black oak corridor, whose slippery boards had the authentic
+ghostly squeak to them. There was a chamber, hung with old, faded
+tapestry of Scripture subjects. In this chamber there was behind the
+tapestry a door, which, being opened, displayed a staircase, that led
+delightfully off to nobody knows where. The furniture was black oak,
+carved, in the most elaborate manner, with cherubs' heads and other good
+and solemn subjects, calculated to produce a ghostly state of mind. And,
+to crown all, we heard that there was a haunted chamber, which was not
+to be opened, where a white lady appeared and walked at all approved
+hours.
+
+Now, only think what a foundation for a story is here. If our Hawthorne
+could conjure up such a thing as the Seven Gables in one of our prosaic
+country towns, what would he have done if he had lived here? Now he is
+obliged to get his ghostly images by looking through smoked glass at our
+square, cold realities; but one such old place as this is a standing
+romance. Perhaps it may add to the effect to say, that the owner of the
+house is a bachelor, who lives there very retired, and employs himself
+much in reading.
+
+The housekeeper, who showed us about, indulged us with a view of the
+kitchen, whose snowy, sanded floor and resplendent polished copper and
+tin, were sights for a housekeeper to take away in her heart of hearts.
+The good woman produced her copy of Uncle Tom, and begged the favor of
+my autograph, which I gave, thinking it quite a happy thing to be able
+to do a favor at so cheap a rate.
+
+After going over the house we wandered through the grounds, which are
+laid out with the same picturesque mixture of the past and present.
+There was a fine grove, under whose shadows we walked, picking
+primroses, and otherwise enacting the poetic, till it was time to go. As
+we passed out, we were again saluted with a _feu de joie_ by the two
+fidelities at the door, which we took in very good part, since it is
+always respectable to be thorough in whatever you are set to do.
+
+Coming home we met with an accident to the carriage which obliged us to
+get out and walk some distance. I was glad enough of it, because it gave
+me a better opportunity for seeing the country. We stopped at a cottage
+to get some rope, and a young woman came out with that beautiful, clear
+complexion which I so much admire here in England; literally her cheeks
+were like damask roses.
+
+I told Isa I wanted to see as much of the interior of the cottages as I
+could; and so, as we were walking onward toward home, we managed to call
+once or twice, on the excuse of asking the way and distance. The
+exterior was very neat, being built of brick or stone, and each had
+attached to it a little flower garden. Isa said that the cottagers often
+offered them a slice of bread or tumbler of milk.
+
+They have a way here of building the cottages two or three in a block
+together, which struck me as different from our New England manner,
+where, in the country, every house stands detached.
+
+In the evening I went into Liverpool, to attend a party of friends of
+the antislavery cause. In the course of the evening, Mr. Stowe was
+requested to make some remarks. Among other things he spoke upon the
+support the free part of the world give to slavery, by the purchase of
+the produce of slave labor; and, in particular, on the great quantity of
+slave-grown cotton purchased by England; suggesting it as a subject for
+inquiry, whether this cannot be avoided.
+
+One or two gentlemen, who are largely concerned in the manufacture and
+importation of cotton, spoke to him on the subject afterwards, and said
+it was a thing which ought to be very seriously considered. It is
+probable that the cotton trade of Great Britain is the great essential
+item which supports slavery, and such considerations ought not,
+therefore, to be without their results.
+
+When I was going away, the lady of the house said that the servants were
+anxious to see me; so I came into the dressing room to give them, an
+opportunity.
+
+While at Mr. C.'s, also, I had once or twice been called out to see
+servants, who had come in to visit those of the family. All of them had
+read Uncle Tom's Cabin, and were full of sympathy. Generally speaking,
+the servants seem to me quite a superior class to what are employed in
+that capacity with us. They look very intelligent, are dressed with
+great neatness, and though their manners are very much more deferential
+than those of servants in our country, it appears to be a difference
+arising quite as much from self-respect and a sense of propriety as from
+servility. Every body's manners are more deferential in England than in
+America.
+
+The next day was appointed to leave Liverpool. It had been arranged
+that, before leaving, we should meet the ladies of the Negroes' Friend
+Society, an association formed at the time of the original antislavery
+agitation in England. We went in the carriage with our friends Mr. and
+Mrs. E. Cropper. On the way they were conversing upon the labors of Mrs.
+Chisholm, the celebrated female philanthropist, whose efforts for the
+benefit of emigrants are awakening a very general interest among all
+classes in England. They said there had been hesitation on the part of
+some good people, in regard to cooeperating with her, because she is a
+Roman Catholic.
+
+It was agreed among us, that the great humanities of the present day are
+a proper ground on which all sects can unite, and that if any feared the
+extension of wrong sentiments, they had only to supply emigrant ships
+more abundantly with the Bible. Mr. C. said that this is a movement
+exciting very extensive interest, and that they hoped Mrs. Chisholm
+would visit Liverpool before long.
+
+The meeting was a very interesting one. The style of feeling expressed
+in all the remarks was tempered by a deep and earnest remembrance of the
+share which England originally had in planting the evil of slavery in
+the civilized world, and her consequent obligation, as a Christian
+nation, now not to cease her efforts until the evil is extirpated, not
+merely from her own soil, but from all lands.
+
+The feeling towards America was respectful and friendly, and the utmost
+sympathy was expressed with her in the difficulties with which she is
+environed by this evil. The tone of the meeting was deeply earnest and
+religious. They presented us with a sum to be appropriated for the
+benefit of the slave, in any way we might think proper.
+
+A great number of friends accompanied us to the cars, and a beautiful
+bouquet of flowers was sent, with a very affecting message from, a sick
+gentleman, who, from the retirement of his chamber, felt a desire to
+testify his sympathy.
+
+Now, if all this enthusiasm for freedom and humanity, in the person of
+the American slave, is to be set down as good for nothing in England,
+because there are evils there in society which require redress, what
+then shall we say of ourselves? Have we not been enthusiastic for
+freedom in the person of the Greek, the Hungarian, and the Pole, while
+protecting a much worse despotism than any from which they suffer? Do we
+not consider it our duty to print and distribute the Bible in all
+foreign lands, when there are three millions of people among whom we
+dare not distribute it at home, and whom it is a penal offence even to
+teach to read it? Do we not send remonstrances to Tuscany, about the
+Madiai, when women are imprisoned in Virginia for teaching slaves to
+read? Is all this hypocritical, insincere, and impertinent in us? Are we
+never to send another missionary, or make another appeal for foreign
+lands, till we have abolished slavery at home? For my part, I think that
+imperfect and inconsistent outbursts of generosity and feeling are a
+great deal better than none. No nation, no individual is wholly
+consistent and Christian; but let us not in ourselves or in other
+nations repudiate the truest and most beautiful developments of
+humanity, because we have not yet attained perfection. All experience
+has proved that the sublime spirit of foreign missions always is
+suggestive of home philanthropies, and that those whose heart has been
+enlarged by the love of all mankind are always those who are most
+efficient in their own particular sphere.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER III.
+
+
+GLASGOW, April 16, 1853.
+
+DEAR AUNT E.:--
+
+You shall have my earliest Scotch letter; for I am sure nobody can
+sympathize in the emotions of the first approach to Scotland as you can.
+A country dear to us by the memory of the dead and of the living; a
+country whose history and literature, interesting enough of itself, has
+become to us still more so, because the reading and learning of it
+formed part of our communion for many a social hour, with friends long
+parted from earth.
+
+The views of Scotland, which lay on my mother's table, even while I was
+a little child, and in poring over which I spent so many happy, dreamy
+hours,--the Scotch ballads, which were the delight of our evening
+fireside, and which seemed almost to melt the soul out of me, before I
+was old enough to understand their words,--the songs of Burns, which had
+been a household treasure among us,--the enchantments of Scott,--all
+these dimly returned upon me. It was the result of them all which I felt
+in nerve and brain.
+
+And, by the by, that puts me in mind of one thing; and that is, how much
+of our pleasure in literature results from its reflection on us from,
+other minds. As we advance in life, the literature which has charmed us
+in the circle of our friends becomes endeared to us from the reflected
+remembrance of them, of their individualities, their opinions, and their
+sympathies, so that our memory of it is a many-colored cord, drawn from
+many minds.
+
+So in coming near to Scotland, I seemed to feel not only my own
+individuality, but all that my friends would have felt, had they been
+with me. For sometimes we seem to be encompassed, as by a cloud, with a
+sense of the sympathy of the absent and the dead.
+
+We left Liverpool with hearts a little tremulous and excited by the
+vibration of an atmosphere of universal sympathy and kindness. We found
+ourselves, at length, shut from the warm adieus of our friends, in a
+snug compartment of the railroad car. The English cars are models of
+comfort and good keeping. There are six seats in a compartment,
+luxuriously cushioned and nicely carpeted, and six was exactly the
+number of our party. Nevertheless, so obstinate is custom that we
+averred at first that we preferred our American cars, deficient as they
+are in many points of neatness and luxury, because they are so much more
+social.
+
+"Dear me," said Mr. S., "six Yankees shut up in a car together! Not one
+Englishman to tell us any thing about the country! Just like the six old
+ladies that made their living by taking tea at each other's houses."
+
+But that is the way here in England: every arrangement in travelling is
+designed to maintain that privacy and reserve which is the dearest and
+most sacred part of an Englishman's nature. Things are so arranged here
+that, if a man pleases, he can travel all through England with his
+family, and keep the circle an unbroken unit, having just as little
+communication with any thing outside of it as in his own house.
+
+From one of these sheltered apartments in a railroad car, he can pass to
+preengaged parlors and chambers in the hotel, with his own separate
+table, and all his domestic manners and peculiarities unbroken. In fact,
+it is a little compact home travelling about.
+
+Now, all this is very charming to people who know already as much about
+a country as they want to know; but it follows from it that a stranger
+might travel all through England, from one end to the other and not be
+on conversing terms with a person in it. He may be at the same hotel, in
+the same train with people able to give him all imaginable information,
+yet never touch them at any practicable point of communion. This is more
+especially the case if his party, as ours was, is just large enough to
+fill the whole apartment.
+
+As to the comforts of the cars, it is to be said, that for the same
+price you can get far more comfortable riding in America. Their first
+class cars are beyond all praise, but also beyond all price; their
+second class are comfortless, cushionless, and uninviting. Agreeably
+with our theory of democratic equality, we have a general car, not so
+complete as the one, nor so bare as the other, where all ride together;
+and if the traveller in thus riding sees things that occasionally annoy
+him, when he remembers that the whole population, from the highest to
+the lowest, are accommodated here together, he will certainly see
+hopeful indications in the general comfort, order, and respectability
+which prevail; all which we talked over most patriotically together,
+while we were lamenting that there was not a seventh to our party, to
+instruct us in the localities.
+
+Every thing upon the railroad proceeds with systematic accuracy. There
+is no chance for the most careless person to commit a blunder, or make a
+mistake. At the proper time the conductor marches every body into their
+places and locks them in, gives the word, "All right," and away we go.
+Somebody has remarked, very characteristically, that the starting word
+of the English is "all right," and that of the Americans "go ahead."
+
+Away we go through Lancashire, wide awake, looking out on all sides for
+any signs of antiquity. In being thus whirled through English scenery, I
+became conscious of a new understanding of the spirit and phraseology of
+English poetry. There are many phrases and expressions with which we
+have been familiar from childhood, and which, we suppose, in a kind of
+indefinite way, we understand, which, after all, when we come on English
+ground, start into a new significance: take, for instance, these lines
+from L'Allegro:--
+
+  "Sometimes walking, not unseen,
+  By hedge-row elms on hillocks green.
+
+         *       *       *       *       *
+
+  Straight mine eye hath caught new pleasures,
+  While the landscape round it measures;
+  Russet lawns and fallows gray,
+  Where the nibbling flocks do stray;
+  Mountains, on whose barren breast
+  The laboring clouds do often rest;
+  Meadows trim with daisies pied,
+  Shallow brooks and livers wide:
+  Towers and battlements it sees
+  Bosom'd high in tufted trees."
+
+Now, these hedge-row elms. I had never even asked myself what they were
+till I saw them; but you know, as I said in a former letter, the hedges
+are not all of them carefully cut; in fact many of them are only
+irregular rows of bushes, where, although the hawthorn is the staple
+element, yet firs, and brambles, and many other interlopers put in their
+claim, and they all grow up together in a kind of straggling unity; and
+in the hedges trees are often set out, particularly elms, and have a
+very pleasing effect.
+
+Then, too, the trees have more of that rounding outline which is
+expressed by the word "bosomed." But here we are, right under the walls
+of Lancaster, and Mr. S. wakes me up by quoting, "Old John o' Gaunt,
+time-honored Lancaster."
+
+"Time-honored," said I; "it looks as fresh as if it had been built
+yesterday: you do not mean to say that is the real old castle?"
+
+"To be sure, it is the very old castle built in the reign of Edward
+III., by John of Gaunt."
+
+It stands on the summit of a hill, seated regally like a queen upon a
+throne, and every part of it looks as fresh, and sharp, and clear, as if
+it were the work of modern times. It is used now for a county jail. We
+have but a moment to stop or admire--the merciless steam car drives on.
+We have a little talk about the feudal times, and the old past days;
+when again the cry goes up,--
+
+"O, there's something! What's that?"
+
+"O, that is Carlisle."
+
+"Carlisle!" said I; "what, the Carlisle of Scott's ballad?"
+
+"What ballad?"
+
+"Why, don't you remember, in the Lay of the Last Minstrel, the song of
+Albert Graeme, which has something about Carlisle's wall in every verse?
+
+  'It was an English, laydie bright
+  When sun shines fair on Carlisle wall,
+  And she would marry a Scottish knight,
+  For love will still be lord of all.'
+
+I used to read this when I was a child, and wonder what 'Carlisle wall'
+was."
+
+Carlisle is one of the most ancient cities in England, dating quite back
+to the time of the Romans. Wonderful! How these Romans left their mark
+every where!
+
+Carlisle has also its ancient castle, the lofty, massive tower of which
+forms a striking feature of the town.
+
+This castle was built by William Rufus. David, King of Scots, and Robert
+Bruce both tried their hands upon it, in the good old times, when
+England and Scotland were a mutual robbery association. Then the castle
+of the town was its great feature; castles were every thing in those
+days. Now the castle has gone to decay, and stands only for a curiosity,
+and the cotton factory has come up in its place. This place is famous
+for cottons and ginghams, and moreover for a celebrated biscuit bakery.
+So goes the world,--the lively vigorous shoots of the present springing
+out of the old, mouldering trunk of the past.
+
+Mr. S. was in an ecstasy about an old church, a splendid Gothic, in
+which Paley preached. He was archdeacon of Carlisle. We stopped here for
+a little while to take dinner. In a large, handsome room tables were set
+out, and we sat down to a regular meal.
+
+One sees nothing of a town from a railroad station, since it seems to be
+an invariable rule, not only here, but all over Europe, to locate them
+so that you can see nothing from them.
+
+By the by, I forgot to say, among the historical recollections of this
+place, that it was the first stopping-place of Queen Mary, after her
+fatal flight into England. The rooms which she occupied are still shown
+in the castle, and there are interesting letters and documents extant
+from lords whom Elizabeth sent here to visit her, in which they record
+her beauty, her heroic sentiments, and even her dress; so strong was the
+fascination in which she held all who approached her. Carlisle is the
+scene of the denouement of Guy Mannering, and it is from this town that
+Lord Carlisle gets his title.
+
+And now keep up a bright lookout for ruins and old houses. Mr. S., whose
+eyes are always in every place, allowed none of us to slumber, but
+looking out, first on his own side and then on ours, called our
+attention to every visible thing. If he had been appointed on a mission
+of inquiry he could not have been more zealous and faithful, and I began
+to think that our desire for an English cicerone was quite superfluous.
+
+And now we pass Gretna Green, famous in story--that momentous place
+which marks the commencement of Scotland. It is a little straggling
+village, and there is a roadside inn, which has been the scene of
+innumerable Gretna Green marriages.
+
+Owing to the fact that the Scottish law of marriage is far more liberal
+in its construction than the English, this place has been the refuge of
+distressed lovers from time immemorial; and although the practice of
+escaping here is universally condemned as very naughty and improper,
+yet, like every other impropriety, it is kept in countenance by very
+respectable people. Two lord chancellors have had the amiable weakness
+to fall into this snare, and one lord chancellor's son; so says the
+guide book, which is our Koran for the time being. It says, moreover,
+that it would be easy to add a lengthened list of _distingues_ married
+at Gretna Green; but these lord chancellors (Erskine and Eldon) are
+quoted as being the most melancholy monuments. What shall meaner mortals
+do, when law itself, in all her majesty, wig, gown, and all, goes by the
+board?
+
+Well, we are in Scotland at last, and now our pulse rises as the sun
+declines in the west. We catch glimpses of the Solway Frith, and talk
+about Redgauntlet.
+
+One says, "Do you remember the scene on the sea shore, with which it
+opens, describing the rising of the tide?"
+
+And says another, "Don't you remember those lines in the Young Lochinvar
+song?--
+
+  'Love swells like the Solway, but ebbs like its tide.'"
+
+I wonder how many authors it will take to enchant our country from Maine
+to New Orleans, as every foot of ground is enchanted here in Scotland.
+
+The sun went down, and night drew on; still we were in Scotland. Scotch
+ballads, Scotch tunes, and Scotch literature were in the ascendant. We
+sang "Auld Lang Syne," "Scots wha ha'," and "Bonnie Doon," and then,
+changing the key, sang Dundee, Elgin, and Martyrs.
+
+"Take care," said Mr. S.; "don't get too much excited."
+
+"Ah," said I, "this is a thing that comes only once in a lifetime; do
+let us have the comfort of it. We shall never come into Scotland for the
+_first time_ again."
+
+"Ah," said another, "how I wish Walter Scott was alive!"
+
+While we were thus at the fusion point of enthusiasm, the cars stopped
+at Lockerby, where the real Old Mortality is buried. All was dim and
+dark outside, but we soon became conscious that there was quite a number
+collected, peering into the window, and, with a strange kind of thrill,
+I heard my name inquired for in the Scottish accent. I went to the
+window; there were men, women, and children there, and hand after hand
+was presented, with the words, "Ye're welcome to Scotland!"
+
+Then they inquired for, and shook hands with, all the party, having in
+some mysterious manner got the knowledge of who they were, even down to
+little G----, whom they took to be my son. Was it not pleasant, when I
+had a heart so warm for this old country? I shall never forget the
+thrill of those words, "Ye're welcome to Scotland," nor the "Gude
+night."
+
+After that we found similar welcomes in many succeeding stopping-places;
+and though I did wave a towel out of the window, instead of a pocket
+handkerchief, and commit other awkwardnesses, from not knowing how to
+play my part, yet I fancied, after all, that Scotland and we were coming
+on well together. Who the good souls were that were thus watching for
+us through the night, I am sure I do not know; but that they were of the
+"one blood," which unites all the families of the earth, I felt.
+
+As we came towards Glasgow, we saw, upon a high hill, what we supposed
+to be a castle on fire--great volumes of smoke rolling up, and fire
+looking out of arched windows.
+
+"Dear me, what a conflagration!" we all exclaimed. We had not gone very
+far before we saw another, and then, on the opposite side of the car,
+another still.
+
+"Why, it seems to me the country is all on fire."
+
+"I should think," said Mr. S., "if it was in old times, that there had
+been a raid from the Highlands, and set all the houses on fire."
+
+"Or they might be beacons," suggested C.
+
+To this some one answered out of the Lay of the Last Minstrel,--
+
+  "Sweet Teviot, by thy silver tide
+  The glaring bale-fires blaze no more."
+
+As we drew near to Glasgow these illuminations increased, till the whole
+air was red with the glare of them.
+
+"What can they be?"
+
+"Dear me," said Mr. S., in a tone of sudden recollection, "it's the iron
+works! Don't you know Glasgow is celebrated for its iron works?"
+
+So, after all, in these peaceful fires of the iron works, we got an idea
+how the country might have looked in the old picturesque times, when the
+Highlanders came down and set the Lowlands on fire; such scenes as are
+commemorated in the words of Roderick Dhu's song:--
+
+  "Proudly our pibroch, has thrilled in Glen Fruin,
+    And Banmachar's groans to our slogan replied;
+  Glen Luss and Ross Dhu, they are smoking in ruins,
+    And the best of Loch Lomond lies dead on her side."
+
+To be sure the fires of iron founderies are much less picturesque than
+the old beacons, and the clink of hammers than the clash of claymores;
+but the most devout worshipper of the middle ages would hardly wish to
+change them.
+
+Dimly, by the flickering light of these furnaces, we see the approach to
+the old city of Glasgow. There, we are arrived! Friends are waiting in
+the station house. Earnest, eager, friendly faces, ever so many. Warm
+greetings, kindly words. A crowd parting in the middle, through which we
+were conducted into a carriage, and loud cheers of welcome, sent a
+throb, as the voice of living Scotland.
+
+I looked out of the carriage, as we drove on, and saw, by the light of a
+lantern, Argyle Street. It was past twelve o'clock when I found myself
+in a warm, cozy parlor, with friends, whom I have ever since been glad
+to remember. In a little time we were all safely housed in our
+hospitable apartments, and sleep fell on me for the first time in
+Scotland.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+
+DEAR AUNT E.:--
+
+The next morning I awoke worn and weary, and scarce could the charms of
+the social Scotch breakfast restore me. I say Scotch, for we had many
+viands peculiarly national. The smoking porridge, or parritch, of
+oatmeal, which is the great staple dish throughout Scotland. Then there
+was the bannock, a thin, wafer-like cake of the same material. My friend
+laughingly said when he passed it, "You are in the 'land o' cakes,'
+remember." There was also some herring, as nice a Scottish fish as ever
+wore scales, besides dainties innumerable which were not national.
+
+Our friend and host was Mr. Baillie Paton. I believe that it is to his
+suggestion in a public meeting, that we owe the invitation which brought
+us to Scotland.
+
+By the by, I should say that "baillie" seems to correspond to what we
+call a member of the city council. Mr. Paton told us, that they had
+expected us earlier, and that the day before quite a party of friends
+met at his house to see us, among whom was good old Dr. Wardlaw.
+
+After breakfast the calling began. First, a friend of the family, with
+three beautiful children, the youngest of whom was the bearer of a
+handsomely bound album, containing a pressed collection of the sea
+mosses of the Scottish coast, very vivid and beautiful.
+
+If the bloom of English children appeared to me wonderful, I seemed to
+find the same thing intensified, if possible, in Scotland. The children
+are brilliant as pomegranate blossoms, and their vivid beauty called
+forth unceasing admiration. Nor is it merely the children of the rich,
+or of the higher classes, that are thus gifted. I have seen many a group
+of ragged urchins in the streets and closes with all the high coloring
+of Rubens, and all his fulness of outline. Why is it that we admire
+ragged children on canvas so much more than the same in nature?
+
+All this day is a confused dream to me of a dizzy and overwhelming kind.
+So many letters that it took C---- from nine in the morning till two in
+the afternoon to read and answer them in the shortest manner; letters
+from all classes of people, high and low, rich and poor, in all shades
+and styles of composition, poetry and prose; some mere outbursts of
+feeling; some invitations; some advice and suggestions; some requests
+and inquiries; some presenting books, or flowers, or fruit.
+
+Then came, in their turn, deputations from Paisley, Greenock, Dundee,
+Aberdeen, Edinburgh, and Belfast in Ireland; calls of friendship,
+invitations of all descriptions to go every where, and to see every
+thing, and to stay in so many places. One kind, venerable minister, with
+his lovely daughter, offered me a retreat in his quiet manse on the
+beautiful shores of the Clyde.
+
+For all these kindnesses, what could I give in return? There was scarce
+time for even a grateful thought on each. People have often said to me
+that it must have been an exceeding bore. For my part, I could not think
+of regarding it so. It only oppressed me with an unutterable sadness.
+
+To me there is always something interesting and beautiful about a
+universal popular excitement of a generous character, let the object of
+it be what it may. The great desiring heart of man, surging with one
+strong, sympathetic swell, even though it be to break on the beach of
+life and fall backwards, leaving the sands as barren as before, has yet
+a meaning and a power in its restlessness, with which I must deeply
+sympathize. Nor do I sympathize any the less, when the individual, who
+calls forth such an outburst, can be seen by the eye of sober sense to
+be altogether inadequate and disproportioned to it.
+
+I do not regard it as any thing against our American nation, that we are
+capable, to a very great extent, of these sudden personal enthusiasms,
+because I think that, with an individual or a community, the capability
+of being exalted into a temporary enthusiasm of self-forgetfulness, so
+far from being a fault, has in it a quality of something divine.
+
+Of course, about all such things there is a great deal which a cool
+critic could make ridiculous, but I hold to my opinion of them
+nevertheless.
+
+In the afternoon I rode out with the lord provost to see the cathedral.
+The lord provost answers to the lord mayor in England. His title and
+office in both countries continue only a year, except in cases of
+reelection.
+
+As I saw the way to the cathedral blocked up by a throng of people, who
+had come out to see me, I could not help saying, "What went ye out for
+to see? a reed shaken with the wind?" In fact, I was so worn out, that I
+could hardly walk through the building.
+
+It is in this cathedral that part of the scene of Rob Roy is laid. This
+was my first experience in cathedrals. It was a new thing to me
+altogether, and as I walked along under the old buttresses and
+battlements without, and looked into the bewildering labyrinths of
+architecture within, I saw that, with silence and solitude to help the
+impression, the old building might become a strong part of one's inner
+life. A grave yard crowded with flat stones lies all around it. A deep
+ravine separates it from another cemetery on an opposite eminence,
+rustling with dark pines. A little brook murmurs with its slender voice
+between.
+
+On this opposite eminence the statue of John Knox, grim and strong,
+stands with its arm uplifted, as if shaking his fist at the old
+cathedral which in life he vainly endeavored to battle down.
+
+Knox was very different from Luther, in that he had no conservative
+element in him, but warred equally against accessories and essentials.
+
+At the time when the churches of Scotland were being pulled down in a
+general iconoclastic crusade, the tradesmen of Glasgow stood for the
+defence of their cathedral, and forced the reformers to content
+themselves with having the idolatrous images of saints pulled down from
+their niches and thrown into the brook, while, as Andrew Fairservice
+hath it, "The auld kirk stood as crouse as a cat when the fleas are
+caimed aff her, and a' body was alike pleased."
+
+We went all through the cathedral, which is fitted up as a Protestant
+place of worship, and has a simple and massive grandeur about it. In
+fact, to quote again from our friend Andrew, we could truly say, "Ah,
+it's a brave kirk, nane o' yere whig-malceries, and curliewurlies, and
+opensteek hems about it--a' solid, weel-jointed mason wark, that will
+stand as lang as the warld, keep hands and gun-powther aff it."
+
+I was disappointed in one thing: the painted glass, if there has ever
+been any, is almost all gone, and the glare of light through the immense
+windows is altogether too great, revealing many defects and rudenesses
+in the architecture, which would have quite another appearance in the
+colored rays through painted windows--an emblem, perhaps, of the cold,
+definite, intellectual rationalism, which has taken the place of the
+many-colored, gorgeous mysticism of former times.
+
+After having been over the church, we requested, out of respect to
+Baillie Nicol Jarvie's memory, to be driven through the Saut Market. I,
+however, was so thoroughly tired that I cannot remember any thing about
+it.
+
+I will say, by the way, that I have found out since, that nothing is so
+utterly hazardous to a person's strength as looking at cathedrals. The
+strain upon the head and eyes in looking up through these immense
+arches, and then the sepulchral chill which abides from generation to
+generation in them, their great extent, and the variety which tempts you
+to fatigue which you are not at all aware of, have overcome, as I was
+told, many before me.
+
+Mr. S. and C----, however, made amends, by their great activity and
+zeal, for all that I could not do, and I was pleased to understand from
+them, that part of the old Tolbooth, where Rob Roy and the baillie had
+their rencontre, was standing safe and sound, with stuff enough in it
+for half a dozen more stories, if any body could be found to write them.
+And Mr. S. insisted upon it, that I should not omit to notify you of
+this circumstance.
+
+Well, in consequence of all this, the next morning I was so ill as to
+need a physician, unable to see any one that called, or to hear any of
+the letters. I passed most of the day in bed, but in the evening I had
+to get up, as I had engaged to drink tea with two thousand people. Our
+kind friends Dr. and Mrs. Wardlaw came after us, and Mr. S. and I went
+in the carriage with them.
+
+Dr. Wardlaw is a venerable-looking old man; we both thought we saw a
+striking resemblance in him to our friend Dr. Woods, of Andover. He is
+still quite active in body and mind, and officiates to his congregation
+with great acceptance. I fear, however, that he is in ill health, for I
+noticed, as we were passing along to church, that he frequently laid his
+hand upon his heart, and seemed in pain. He said he hoped he should be
+able to get through the evening, but that when he was not well,
+excitement was apt to bring on a spasm about the heart; but with it all
+he seemed so cheerful, lively, and benignant, that I could not but feel
+my affections drawn towards him. Mrs. Wardlaw is a gentle, motherly
+woman, and it was a great comfort to have her with me on such an
+occasion.
+
+Our carriage stopped at last at the place. I have a dim remembrance of a
+way being made for us through a great crowd all round the house, and of
+going with Mrs. Wardlaw up into a dressing room, where I met and shook
+hands with many friendly people. Then we passed into a gallery, where a
+seat was reserved for our party, directly in front of the audience. Our
+friend Baillie Paton presided. Mrs. Wardlaw and I sat together, and
+around us many friends, chiefly ministers of the different churches, the
+ladies and gentlemen of the Glasgow Antislavery Society, and others.
+
+I told you it was a tea party; but the arrangements were altogether
+different from any I had ever seen. There were narrow tables stretched
+up and down the whole extent of the great hall, and every person had an
+appointed seat. These tables were set out with cups and saucers, cakes,
+biscuit, &c., and when the proper time came, attendants passed along
+serving tea. The arrangements were so accurate and methodical that the
+whole multitude actually took tea together, without the least apparent
+inconvenience or disturbance.
+
+There was a gentle, subdued murmur of conversation all over the house,
+the sociable clinking of teacups and teaspoons, while the entertainment
+was going on. It seemed to me such an odd idea, I could not help
+wondering what sort of a teapot that must be, in which all this tea for
+two thousand people was made. Truly, as Hadji Baba says, I think they
+must have had the "father of all teakettles" to boil it in. I could not
+help wondering if old mother Scotland had put two thousand teaspoonfuls
+of tea for the company, and one for the teapot, as is our good Yankee
+custom.
+
+We had quite a sociable time up in our gallery. Our tea table stretched
+quite across the gallery, and we drank tea "in sight of all the people."
+By _we_, I mean a great number of ministers and their wives, and ladies
+of the Antislavery Society, besides our party, and the friends whom I
+have mentioned before. All seemed to be enjoying themselves.
+
+After tea they sang a few verses of the seventy-second psalm in the old
+Scotch version.
+
+  "The people's poor ones he shall judge,
+    The needy's children save;
+  And those shall he in pieces break,
+    Who them oppressed have.
+
+  For he the needy shall preserve,
+    When he to him doth call;
+  The poor, also, and him that hath
+    No help of man at all.
+
+  Both from deceit and violence
+    Their soul he shall set free;
+  And in his sight right precious
+    And dear their blood shall be.
+
+  Now blessed be the Lord, our God,
+    The God of Israel,
+  For he alone doth wondrous works,
+    In glory that excel.
+
+  And blessed be his glorious name
+    To all eternity;
+  The whole earth let his glory fill:
+    Amen; so let it be."
+
+When I heard the united sound of all the voices, giving force to these
+simple and pathetic words, I thought I could see something of the reason
+why that rude old translation still holds its place in Scotland.
+
+The addresses were, many of them, very beautiful; the more so for the
+earnest and religious feeling which they manifested. That of Dr.
+Wardlaw, in particular, was full of comfort and encouragement, and
+breathed a most candid and catholic spirit. Could our friends in America
+see with what earnest warmth the religious heart of Scotland beats
+towards them, they would be willing to suffer a word of admonition from
+those to whom love gives a right to speak. As Christians, all have a
+common interest in what honors or dishonors Christianity, and an ocean
+between us does not make us less one church.
+
+Most of the speeches you will see recorded in the papers. In the course
+of the evening there was a second service of grapes, oranges, and other
+fruits, served round in the same quiet manner as the tea. On account of
+the feeble state of my health, they kindly excused me before the
+exercises of the evening were over.
+
+The next morning, at ten o'clock, we rode with a party of friends to see
+some of the _notabilia_. First, to Bothwell Castle, of old the residence
+of the Black Douglas. The name had for me the quality of enchantment. I
+cannot understand nor explain the nature of that sad yearning and
+longing with which one visits the mouldering remains of a state of
+society which one's reason wholly disapproves, and which one's calm
+sense of right would think it the greatest misfortune to have recalled;
+yet when the carriage turned under the shadow of beautiful ancient oaks,
+and Mr. S. said, "There, we are in the grounds of the old Black Douglas
+family!" I felt every nerve shiver. I remembered the dim melodies of
+the Lady of the Lake. Bothwell's lord was the lord of this castle, whose
+beautiful ruins here adorn the banks of the Clyde.
+
+Whatever else we have or may have in America, we shall never have the
+wild, poetic beauty of these ruins. The present noble possessors are
+fully aware of their worth as objects of taste, and, therefore, with the
+greatest care are they preserved. Winding walks are cut through the
+grounds with much ingenuity, and seats or arbors are placed at every
+desirable and picturesque point of view.
+
+To the thorough-paced tourist, who wants to _do_ the proprieties in the
+shortest possible time, this arrangement is undoubtedly particularly
+satisfactory; but to the idealist, who would like to roam, and dream,
+and feel, and to come unexpectedly on the choicest points of view, it is
+rather a damper to have all his raptures prearranged and foreordained
+for him, set down in the guide book and proclaimed by the guide, even
+though it should be done with the most artistic accuracy.
+
+Nevertheless, when we came to the arbor which commanded the finest view
+of the old castle, and saw its gray, ivy-clad walls, standing forth on a
+beautiful point, round which swept the brown, dimpling waves of the
+Clyde, the indescribable sweetness, sadness, wildness of the whole scene
+would make its voice heard in our hearts. "Thy servants take pleasure in
+her dust, and favor the stones thereof," said an old Hebrew poet, who
+must have felt the inexpressibly sad beauty of a ruin. All the splendid
+phantasmagoria of chivalry and feudalism, knights, ladies, banners,
+glittering arms, sweep before us; the cry of the battle, the noise of
+the captains, and the shouting; and then in contrast this deep
+stillness, that green, clinging ivy, the gentle, rippling river, those
+weeping birches, dipping in its soft waters--all these, in their quiet
+loveliness, speak of something more imperishable than brute force.
+
+The ivy on the walls now displays a trunk in some places as large as a
+man's body. In the days of old Archibald the Grim, I suppose that ivy
+was a little, weak twig, which, if he ever noticed, he must have thought
+the feeblest and slightest of all things; yet Archibald has gone back to
+dust, and the ivy is still growing on. Such force is there in gentle
+things.
+
+I have often been dissatisfied with the admiration, which a poetic
+education has woven into my nature, for chivalry and feudalism; but, on
+a closer examination, I am convinced that there is a real and proper
+foundation for it, and that, rightly understood, this poetic admiration
+is not inconsistent with the spirit of Christ.
+
+For, let us consider what it is we admire in these Douglases, for
+instance, who, as represented by Scott, are perhaps as good exponents of
+the idea as any. Was it their hardness, their cruelty, their hastiness
+to take offence, their fondness for blood and murder? All these, by and
+of themselves, are simply disgusting. What, then, do we admire? Their
+courage, their fortitude, their scorn of lying and dissimulation, their
+high sense of personal honor, which led them to feel themselves the
+protectors of the weak, and to disdain to take advantage of unequal odds
+against an enemy. If we read the book of Isaiah, we shall see that some
+of the most striking representations of God appeal to the very same
+principles of our nature.
+
+The fact is, there can be no reliable character which has not its basis
+in these strong qualities. The beautiful must ever rest in the arms of
+the sublime. The gentle needs the strong to sustain it, as much as the
+rock flowers need rocks to grow on, or yonder ivy the rugged wall which
+it embraces. When we are admiring these things, therefore, we are only
+admiring some sparkles and glimmers of that which is divine, and so
+coming nearer to Him in whom all fulness dwells.
+
+After admiring at a distance, we strolled through the ruins themselves.
+Do you remember, in the Lady of the Lake, where the exiled Douglas,
+recalling to his daughter the images of his former splendor, says,--
+
+  "When Blantyre hymned, her holiest lays,
+  And Bothwell's walls flung back the praise"?
+
+These lines came forcibly to my mind, when I saw the mouldering ruins of
+Blantyre priory rising exactly opposite to the castle, on the other side
+of the Clyde.
+
+The banks of the River Clyde, where we walked, were thick set with
+Portuguese laurel, which I have before mentioned as similar to our
+rhododendron. I here noticed a fact with regard to the ivy which had
+often puzzled me; and that is, the different shapes of its leaves in the
+different stages of its growth. The young ivy has this leaf; but when it
+has become more than a century old every trace and indentation melts
+away, and it assumes this form, which I found afterwards to be the
+invariable shape of all the oldest ivy, in all the ruins of Europe which
+I explored.
+
+This ivy, like the spider, takes hold with her hands in kings' palaces,
+as every twig is furnished with innumerable little clinging fingers, by
+which it draws itself close, as it were, to the very heart of the old
+rough stone.
+
+Its clinging and beautiful tenacity has given rise to an abundance of
+conceits about fidelity, friendship, and woman's love, which have become
+commonplace simply from their appropriateness. It might, also, symbolize
+that higher love, unconquerable and unconquered, which has embraced this
+ruined world from age to age, silently spreading its green over the
+rents and fissures of our fallen nature, giving "beauty for ashes, and
+garments of praise for the spirit of heaviness."
+
+There is a modern mansion, where the present proprietor of the estate
+lives. It was with an emotion partaking of the sorrowful, that we heard
+that the Douglas line, as such, was extinct, and that the estate had
+passed to distant connections. I was told that the present Lord Douglas
+is a peaceful clergyman, quite a different character from old Archibald
+the Grim.
+
+The present residence is a plain mansion, standing on a beautiful lawn,
+near the old castle. The head gardener of the estate and many of the
+servants came out to meet us, with faces full of interest. The gardener
+walked about to show us the localities, and had a great deal of the
+quiet intelligence and self-respect which, I think, is characteristic of
+the laboring classes here. I noticed that on the green sweep of the
+lawn, he had set out here and there a good many daisies, as
+embellishments to the grass, and these in many places were defended by
+sticks bent over them, and that, in one place, a bank overhanging the
+stream was radiant with yellow daffodils, which appeared to have come up
+and blossomed there accidentally. I know not whether these were planted
+there, or came up of themselves.
+
+We next went to the famous Bothwell bridge, which Scott has immortalized
+in Old Mortality. We walked up and down, trying to recall the scenes of
+the battle, as there described, and were rather mortified, after we had
+all our associations comfortably located upon it, to be told that it was
+not the same bridge--it had been newly built, widened, and otherwise
+made more comfortable and convenient.
+
+Of course, this was evidently for the benefit of society, but it was
+certainly one of those cases where the poetical suffers for the
+practical. I comforted myself in my despondency, by looking over at the
+old stone piers underneath, which were indisputably the same. We drove
+now through beautiful grounds, and alighted at an elegant mansion, which
+in former days belonged to Lockhart, the son-in-law of Scott. It was in
+this house that Old Mortality was written.
+
+As I was weary, the party left me here, while they went on to see the
+Duke of Hamilton's grounds. Our kind hostess showed me into a small
+study, where she said Old Mortality was written. The window commanded a
+beautiful view of many of the localities described. Scott was as
+particular to consult for accuracy in his local descriptions as if he
+had been writing a guide book.
+
+He was in the habit of noting down in his memorandum book even names and
+characteristics of the wild flowers and grasses that grew about a place.
+When a friend once remarked to him, that he should have supposed his
+imagination could have supplied such trifles, he made an answer that is
+worth remembering by every artist--that no imagination could long
+support its freshness, that was not nourished by a constant and minute
+observation of nature.
+
+Craignethan Castle, which is the original of Tillietudlem, we were
+informed, was not far from thence. It is stated in Lockhart's Life of
+Scott, that the ruins of this castle excited in Scott such delight and
+enthusiasm, that its owner urged him to accept for his lifetime the use
+of a small habitable house, enclosed within the circuit of the walls.
+
+After the return of the party from Hamilton Park, we sat down to an
+elegant lunch, where my eye was attracted more than any thing else, by
+the splendor of the hothouse flowers which adorned the table. So far as
+I have observed, the culture of flowers, both in England and Scotland,
+is more universally an object of attention than with us. Every family in
+easy circumstances seems, as a matter of course, to have their
+greenhouse, and the flowers are brought to a degree of perfection which
+I have never seen at home.
+
+I may as well say here, that we were told by a gentleman, whose name I
+do not now remember, that this whole district had been celebrated for
+its orchards; he added, however, that since the introduction of the
+American apple into the market, its superior excellence had made many of
+these orchards almost entirely worthless. It is a curious fact, showing
+how the new world is working on the old.
+
+After taking leave of our hospitable friends, we took to our carriages
+again. As we were driving slowly through the beautiful grounds,
+admiring, as we never failed to do, their perfect cultivation, a party
+of servants appeared in sight, waving their hats and handkerchiefs, and
+cheering us as we passed. These kindly expressions from them were as
+pleasant as any we received.
+
+In the evening we had engaged to attend another _soiree_, gotten up by
+the working classes, to give admission to many who were not in
+circumstances to purchase tickets for the other. This was to me, if any
+thing, a more interesting _reunion_, because this was just the class
+whom I wished to meet. The arrangements of the entertainment were like
+those of the evening before.
+
+As I sat in the front gallery and looked over the audience with an
+intense interest, I thought they appeared on the whole very much like
+what I might have seen at home in a similar gathering. Men, women, and
+children were dressed in a style which showed both self-respect and good
+taste, and the speeches were far above mediocrity. One pale young man, a
+watchmaker, as I was told afterwards, delivered an address, which,
+though doubtless it had the promising fault of too much elaboration and
+ornament, yet I thought had passages which would do honor to any
+literary periodical whatever.
+
+There were other orators less highly finished, who yet spoke "right on,"
+in a strong, forcible, and really eloquent way, giving the grain of the
+wood without the varnish. They contended very seriously and sensibly,
+that although the working men of England and Scotland had many things to
+complain of, and many things to be reformed, yet their condition was
+world-wide different from that of the slave.
+
+One cannot read the history of the working classes in England, for the
+last fifty years, without feeling sensibly the difference between
+oppressions under a free government and slavery. So long as the working
+class of England produces orators and writers, such as it undoubtedly
+has produced; so long as it has in it that spirit of independence and
+resistance of wrong, which has shown itself more and more during the
+agitations of the last fifty years; and so as long as the law allows
+them to meet and debate, to form associations and committees, to send up
+remonstrances and petitions to government,--one can see that their case
+is essentially different from that of plantation slaves.
+
+I must say, I was struck this night with the resemblance between the
+Scotchman and the New Englander. One sees the distinctive nationality of
+a country more in the middle and laboring classes than in the higher,
+and accordingly at this meeting there was more nationality, I thought,
+than at the other.
+
+The highest class of mind in all countries loses nationality, and
+becomes universal; it is a great pity, too, because nationality is
+picturesque always. One of the greatest miracles to my mind about
+Kossuth was, that with so universal an education, and such an extensive
+range of language and thought, he was yet so distinctively a Magyar.
+
+One thing has surprised and rather disappointed us. Our enthusiasm for
+Walter Scott does not apparently meet a response in the popular breast.
+Allusions to Bannockburn and Drumclog bring down the house, but
+enthusiasm for Scott was met with comparative silence. We discussed this
+matter among ourselves, and rather wondered at it.
+
+The fact is, Scott belonged to a past, and not to the coming age. He
+beautified and adorned that which is waxing old and passing away. He
+loved and worshipped in his very soul institutions which the majority of
+the common people have felt as a restraint and a burden. One might
+naturally get a very different idea of a feudal castle by starving to
+death in the dungeon of it, than by writing sonnets on it at a
+picturesque distance. Now, we in America are so far removed from
+feudalism,--it has been a thing so much of mere song and story with us,
+and our sympathies are so unchecked by any experience of inconvenience
+or injustice in its consequences,--that we are at full liberty to
+appreciate the picturesque of it, and sometimes, when we stand
+overlooking our own beautiful scenery, to wish that we could see,
+
+  "On yon bold brow, a lordly tower;
+  In that soft vale, a lady's bower;
+  In yonder meadow, far away,
+  The turrets of a cloister gray;"
+
+when those who know by experience all the accompaniments of these
+ornaments, would have quite another impression.
+
+Nevertheless, since there are two worlds in man, the real and the ideal,
+and both have indisputably a right to be, since God made the faculties
+of both, we must feel that it is a benefaction to mankind, that Scott
+was thus raised up as the link, in the ideal world, between the present
+and the past. It is a loss to universal humanity to have the imprint of
+any phase of human life and experience entirely blotted out. Scott's
+fictions are like this beautiful ivy, with which all the ruins here are
+overgrown,--they not only adorn, but, in many cases, they actually hold
+together, and prevent the crumbling mass from falling into ruins.
+
+To-morrow we are going to have a sail on the Clyde.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER V.
+
+
+April 17.
+
+MY DEAR SISTER:--
+
+To-day a large party of us started on a small steamer, to go down the
+Clyde. It has been a very, very exciting day to us. It is so stimulating
+to be where every name is a poem. For instance, we start at the
+Broomielaw. This Broomielaw is a kind of wharf, or landing. Perhaps in
+old times it was a haugh overgrown with broom, from whence it gets its
+name; this is only my conjecture, however.
+
+We have a small steamer quite crowded with people, our excursion party
+being very numerous. In a few minutes after starting, somebody says,--
+
+"O, here's where the Kelvin enters." This starts up,--
+
+  "Let us haste to Kelvin Grove."
+
+Then soon we are coming to Dumbarton Castle, and all the tears we shed
+over Miss Porter's William Wallace seem to rise up like a many-colored
+mist about it. The highest peak of the rock is still called Wallace's
+Seat, and a part of the castle, Wallace's Tower; and in one of its
+apartments a huge two-handed sword of the hero is still shown. I
+suppose, in fact, Miss Porter's sentimental hero is about as much like
+the real William Wallace as Daniel Boone is like Sir Charles Grandison.
+Many a young lady, who has cried herself sick over Wallace in the novel,
+would have been in perfect horror if she could have seen the real man.
+Still Dumbarton Castle is not a whit the less picturesque for that. Now
+comes the Leven,--that identical Leven Water known in song,--and on the
+right is Leven Grove.
+
+"There," said somebody to me, "is the old mansion of the Earls of
+Glencairn." Quick as thought, flashed through my mind that most eloquent
+of Burns's poems, the Lament for James, Earl of Glencairn.
+
+  "The bridegroom may forget the bride
+  Was made his wedded wife yestreen;
+  The monarch may forget the crown
+  That on his head an hour hath been;
+  The mother may forget the child
+  That smiles sae sweetly on her knee;
+  But I'll remember thee, Glencairn,
+  And a' that thou hast done for me."
+
+This mansion is now the seat of Graham of Gartmor.
+
+Now we are shown the remains of old Cardross Castle, where it was said
+Robert Bruce breathed his last. And now we come near the beautiful
+grounds of Roseneath, a green, velvet-like peninsula, stretching out
+into the widening waters.
+
+"Peninsula!" said C----. "Why, Walter Scott said it was an island."
+
+Certainly, he did declare most explicitly in the person of Mr.
+Archibald, the Duke of Argyle's serving man, to Miss Dollie Dutton, when
+she insisted on going to it by land, that Roseneath was an island. It
+shows that the most accurate may be caught tripping sometimes.
+
+Of course, our heads were full of David Deans, Jeanie, and Effie, but we
+saw nothing of them. The Duke of Argyle's Italian mansion is the most
+conspicuous object.
+
+Hereupon there was considerable discussion on the present Duke of Argyle
+among the company, from which we gathered that he stood high in favor
+with the popular mind. One said that there had been an old prophecy,
+probably uttered somewhere up in the Highlands, where such things are
+indigenous, that a very good duke of Argyle was to arise having red
+hair, and that the present duke had verified the prediction by uniting
+both requisites. They say that he is quite a young man, with a small,
+slight figure, but with a great deal of energy and acuteness of mind,
+and with the generous and noble traits which have distinguished his
+house in former times. He was a pupil of Dr. Arnold, a member of the
+National Scotch Kirk, and generally understood to be a serious and
+religious man. He is one of the noblemen who have been willing to come
+forward and make use of his education and talent in the way of popular
+lectures at lyceums and athenaeums; as have also the Duke of Newcastle,
+the Earl of Carlisle, and some others. So the world goes on. I must
+think, with all deference to poetry, that it is much better to deliver a
+lyceum lecture than to head a clan in battle; though I suppose, a
+century and a half ago, had the thing been predicted to McCallummore's
+old harper, he would have been greatly at a loss to comprehend the
+nature of the transaction.
+
+Somewhere about here, I was presented, by his own request, to a
+broad-shouldered Scotch farmer, who stood some six feet two, and who
+paid me the compliment to say, that he had read my book, and that he
+would walk six miles to see me any day. Such a flattering evidence of
+discriminating taste, of course, disposed my heart towards him; but when
+I went up and put my hand into his great prairie of a palm, I was as a
+grasshopper in my own eyes. I inquired who he was, and was told he was
+one of the Duke of Argyle's farmers. I thought to myself, if all the
+duke's farmers were of this pattern, that he might be able to speak to
+the enemy in the gates to some purpose.
+
+Roseneath occupies the ground between the Gare Loch and Loch Long. The
+Gare Loch is the name given to a bay formed by the River Clyde, here
+stretching itself out like a lake. Here we landed and went on shore,
+passing along the sides of the loch, in the little village of Row.
+
+As we were walking along a carriage came up after us, in which were two
+ladies. A bunch of primroses, thrown from this carriage, fell at my
+feet. I picked it up, and then the carriage stopped, and the ladies
+requested to know if I was Mrs. Stowe. On answering in the affirmative,
+they urged me so earnestly to come under their roof and take some
+refreshment, that I began to remember, what I had partly lost sight of,
+that I was very tired; so, while the rest of the party walked on to get
+a distant view of Ben Lomond, Mr. S. and I suffered ourselves to be
+taken into the carriage of our unknown friends, and carried up to a
+charming little Italian villa, which stood, surrounded by flower gardens
+and pleasure grounds, at the head of the loch. We were ushered into a
+most comfortable parlor, where a long window, made of one clear unbroken
+sheet of plate glass, gave a perfect view of the loch with all its woody
+shores, with Roseneath Castle in the distance. My good hostesses
+literally overwhelmed me with kindness; but as there was nothing I
+really needed so much as a little quiet rest, they took me to a cozy
+bedroom, of which they gave me the freedom, for the present. Does not
+every traveller know what a luxury it is to shut one's eyes sometimes?
+The chamber, which is called "Peace," is now, as it was in Christian's
+days, one of the best things that Charity or Piety could offer to the
+pilgrim. Here I got a little brush from the wings of dewy-feathered
+sleep.
+
+After a while our party came back, and we had to be moving. My kind
+friends expressed so much joy at having met me, that it was really
+almost embarrassing. They told me that they, being confined to the house
+by ill health, and one of them by lameness, had had no hope of ever
+seeing me, and that this meeting seemed a wonderful gift of Providence.
+They bade me take courage and hope, for they felt assured that the Lord
+would yet entirely make an end of slavery through the world.
+
+It was concluded, after we left here, that, instead of returning by the
+boat, we should take carriage and ride home along the banks of the
+river. In our carriage were Mr. S. and myself, Dr. Robson and Lady
+Anderson. About this time I commenced my first essay towards giving
+titles, and made, as you may suppose, rather an odd piece of work of it,
+generally saying "Mrs." first, and "Lady" afterwards, and then begging
+pardon. Lady Anderson laughed, and said she would give me a general
+absolution. She is a truly genial, hearty Scotch woman, and seemed to
+enter happily into the spirit of the hour.
+
+As we rode on we found that the news of our coming had spread through
+the village. People came and stood in their doors, beckoning, bowing,
+smiling, and waving their handkerchiefs, and the carriage was several
+times stopped by persons who came to offer flowers. I remember, in
+particular, a group of young girls brought to the carriage two of the
+most beautiful children I ever saw, whose little hands literally deluged
+us with flowers.
+
+At the village of Helensburgh we stopped a little while to call upon
+Mrs. Bell, the wife of Mr. Bell, the inventor of the steamboat. His
+invention in this country was about the same time of that of Fulton in
+America. Mrs. Bell came to the carriage to speak to us. She is a
+venerable woman, far advanced in years. They had prepared a lunch for
+us, and quite a number of people had come together to meet us, but our
+friends said that there was not time for us to stop.
+
+We rode through several villages after this, and met quite warm welcome.
+What pleased me was, that it was not mainly from the literary, nor the
+rich, nor the great, but the plain, common people. The butcher came out
+of his stall, and the baker from his shop, the miller, dusty with his
+flour, the blooming, comely, young mother, with her baby in her arms,
+all smiling and bowing with that hearty, intelligent, friendly look, as
+if they knew we should be glad to see them.
+
+Once, while we stopped to change horses, I, for the sake of seeing
+something more of the country, walked on. It seems the honest landlord
+and his wife were greatly disappointed at this; however, they got into
+the carriage and rode on to see me, and I shook hands with them with a
+right good will.
+
+We saw several of the clergymen, who came out to meet us, and I remember
+stopping, just to be introduced to a most delightful family who came
+out, one by one, gray-headed father and mother, with comely brothers and
+fair sisters, looking all so kindly and home-like, that I would have
+been glad to use the welcome that they gave me to their dwelling.
+
+This day has been a strange phenomenon to me. In the first place, I have
+seen in all these villages how universally the people read. I have seen
+how capable they are of a generous excitement and enthusiasm, and how
+much may be done by a work of fiction, so written as to enlist those
+sympathies which are common to all classes. Certainly, a great deal may
+be effected in this way, if God gives to any one the power, as I hope
+he will to many. The power of fictitious writing, for good as well as
+evil, is a thing which ought most seriously to be reflected on. No one
+can fail to see that in our day it is becoming a very great agency.
+
+We came home quite tired, as you may well suppose. You will not be
+surprised that the next day I found myself more disposed to keep my bed
+than to go out. I regretted it, because, being Sunday, I would like to
+have heard some of the preachers of Glasgow. I was, however, glad of one
+quiet day to recall my thoughts, for I had been whirling so rapidly from
+scene to scene, that I needed time to consider where I was; especially
+as we were to go to Edinburgh on the morrow.
+
+Towards sunset Mr. S. and I strolled out entirely alone to breathe a
+little fresh air. We walked along the banks of the Kelvin, quite down to
+its junction with the Clyde. The Kelvin Grove of the ballad is all cut
+away, and the Kelvin flows soberly between stone walls, with a footpath
+on each side, like a stream that has learned to behave itself.
+
+"There," said Mr. S., as we stood on the banks of the Clyde, now lying
+flushed and tranquil in the light of the setting sun, "over there is
+Ayrshire."
+
+"Ayrshire!" I said; "what, where Burns lived?"
+
+"Yes, there is his cottage, far down to the south, and out of sight, of
+course; and there are the bonny banks of Ayr."
+
+It seemed as if the evening air brought a kind of sigh with it. Poor
+Burns! how inseparably he has woven himself with the warp and woof of
+every Scottish association!
+
+We saw a great many children of the poor out playing--rosy, fine little
+urchins, worth, any one of them, a dozen bleached, hothouse flowers. We
+stopped to hear them talk, and it was amusing to hear the Scotch of
+Walter Scott and Burns shouted out with such a right good will. We were
+as much struck by it as an honest Yankee was in Paris by the proficiency
+of the children in speaking French.
+
+The next day we bade farewell to Glasgow, overwhelmed with kindness to
+the last, and only oppressed by the thought, how little that was
+satisfactory we were able to give in return.
+
+Again in the railroad car on our way to Edinburgh. A pleasant two hours'
+trip is this from Glasgow to Edinburgh. When the cars stopped at
+Linlithgow station, the name started us as out of a dream.
+
+There, sure enough, before our eyes, on a gentle eminence stood the
+mouldering ruins of which Scott has sung:--
+
+  "Of all the palaces so fair,
+    Built for the royal dwelling,
+  In Scotland, far beyond compare
+    Linlithgow is excelling;
+  And in its park in genial June,
+  How sweet the merry linnet's tune,
+    How blithe the blackbird's lay!
+  The wild buck's bells from thorny brake.
+  The coot dives merry on the lake,--
+  The saddest heart might pleasure take,
+    To see a scene so gay."
+
+Here was born that woman whose beauty and whose name are set in the
+strong, rough Scotch heart, as a diamond in granite. Poor Mary! When her
+father, who lay on his death bed at that time in Falkland, was told of
+her birth, he answered, "Is it so? Then God's will be done! It [the
+kingdom] came with a lass, and it will go with a lass!" With these words
+he turned his face to the wall, and died of a broken heart. Certainly,
+some people appear to be born under an evil destiny.
+
+Here, too, in Linlithgow church, tradition says that James IV. was
+warned, by a strange apparition, against that expedition to England
+which cost him his life. Scott has worked this incident up into a
+beautiful description, in the fourth canto of Marmion.
+
+The castle has a very sad and romantic appearance, standing there all
+alone as it does, looking down into the quiet lake. It is said that the
+internal architectural decorations are exceedingly rich and beautiful,
+and a resemblance has been traced between its style of ornament and that
+of Heidelberg Castle, which has been accounted for by the fact that the
+Princess Elizabeth, who was the sovereign lady of Heidelberg, spent many
+of the earlier years of her life in this place.
+
+Not far from here we caught a glimpse of the ruins of Niddrie Castle,
+where Mary spent the first night after her escape from Lochleven.
+
+The Avon here at Linlithgow is spanned by a viaduct, which is a fine
+work of art. It has twenty-five arches, which are from seventy to eighty
+feet high and fifty wide.
+
+As the cars neared Edinburgh we all exclaimed at its beauty, so worthily
+commemorated by Scott:--
+
+  "Such dusky grandeur clothes the height,
+  Where the huge castle holds its state,
+    And all the steeps slope down,
+  Whose ridgy back heaves to the sky,
+  Piled deep and massy, close and high,
+    Mine own romantic town!"
+
+Edinburgh has had an effect on the literary history of the world for the
+last fifty years, that cannot be forgotten by any one approaching her.
+The air seemed to be full of spirits of those who, no longer living,
+have woven a part of the thread of our existence. I do not know that the
+shortness of human life ever so oppressed me as it did on coming near to
+the city.
+
+At the station house the cars stopped amid a crowd of people, who had
+assembled to meet us. The lord provost met us at the door of the car,
+and presented us to the magistracy of the city, and the committees of
+the Edinburgh antislavery societies. The drab dresses and pure white
+bonnets of many Friends were conspicuous among the dense moving crowd,
+as white doves seen against a dark cloud. Mr. S. and myself, and our
+future hostess, Mrs. Wigham, entered the carriage with the lord provost,
+and away we drove, the crowd following with their shouts and cheers. I
+was inexpressibly touched and affected by this. While we were passing
+the monument of Scott, I felt an oppressive melancholy. What a moment
+life seems in the presence of the noble dead! What a momentary thing is
+art, in all its beauty! Where are all those great souls that have
+created such an atmosphere of light about Edinburgh? and how little a
+space was given them to live and to enjoy!
+
+We drove all over Edinburgh, up to the castle, to the university, to
+Holyrood, to the hospitals, and through many of the principal streets,
+amid shouts, and smiles, and greetings. Some boys amused me very much by
+their pertinacious attempts to keep up with the carriage.
+
+"Heck," says one of them, "that's _her_; see the _courls_."
+
+The various engravers, who have amused themselves by diversifying my
+face for the public, having all, with great unanimity, agreed in giving
+prominence to this point, I suppose the urchins thought they were on
+safe ground there. I certainly think I answered one good purpose that
+day, and that is, of giving the much oppressed and calumniated class,
+called boys, an opportunity to develop all the noise that was in them--a
+thing for which I think they must bless me in their remembrances.
+
+At last the carriage drove into a deep gravelled yard, and we alighted
+at a porch covered with green ivy, and found ourselves once more at
+home.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+
+MY DEAR SISTER:--
+
+You may spare your anxieties about me, for I do assure you, that if I
+were an old Sevres China jar, I could not have more careful handling
+than I do. Every body is considerate; a great deal to say, when there
+appears to be so much excitement. Every body seems to understand how
+good for nothing I am; and yet, with all this consideration, I have been
+obliged to keep my room and bed for a good part of the time. One
+agreeable feature of the matter is, it gave me an opportunity to make
+the acquaintance of the celebrated homoeopathic physician, Dr.
+Henderson, in whose experiments and experience I had taken some interest
+while in America.
+
+Of the multitudes who have called, I have seen scarcely any.
+
+Mrs. W., with whom I am staying, is a most thoughtful nurse. They are
+Friends, and nothing can be more a pattern of rational home enjoyment,
+without ostentation and without parade, than a Quaker family.
+
+Though they reject every thing in arrangement which savors of
+ostentation and worldly show, yet their homes are exquisite in point of
+comfort. They make great use of flowers and natural specimens in
+adorning their apartments, and also indulge to a chaste and moderate
+extent in engravings and works of art. So far as I have observed, they
+are all "tee-totalers;" giving, in this respect, the whole benefit of
+their example to the temperance cause.
+
+To-morrow evening is to be the great tea party here. How in the world I
+am ever to live through it, I don't know.
+
+The amount of letters we found waiting for us here in Edinburgh was, if
+possible, more appalling than in Glasgow. Among those from persons whom
+you would be interested in hearing of, I may mention, a very kind and
+beautiful one from the Duchess of Sutherland, and one also from the Earl
+of Carlisle, both desiring to make appointments for meeting us as soon
+as we come to London. Also a very kind and interesting note from the
+Rev. Mr. Kingsley and lady. I look forward with a great deal of interest
+to passing a little time with them in their rectory. Letters also from
+Mr. Binney and Mr. Sherman, two of the leading Congregational clergymen
+of London. The latter officiates at Surrey Chapel, which was established
+by Rowland Hill. Both contain invitations to us to visit them in London.
+
+As to all engagements, I am in a state of happy acquiescence, having
+resigned myself, as a very tame lion, into the hands of my keepers.
+Whenever the time comes for me to do any thing, I try to behave as well
+as I can, which, as Dr. Young says, is all that an angel could do in the
+same circumstances.
+
+As to these letters, many of them are mere outbursts of feeling; yet
+they are interesting as showing the state of the public mind. Many of
+them are on kindred topics of moral reform, in which they seem to have
+an intuitive sense that we should be interested. I am not, of course,
+able to answer them all, but C---- does, and it takes a good part of
+every day. One was from a shoemaker's wife in one of the islands, with a
+copy of very fair verses. Many have come accompanying little keepsakes
+and gifts. It seems to me rather touching and sad, that people should
+want to give me things, when I am not able to give an interview, or even
+a note, in return. C---- wrote from six to twelve o'clock, steadily,
+answering letters.
+
+April 26. Last night came off the _soiree_. The hall was handsomely
+decorated with flags in front. We went with the lord provost in his
+carriage. The getting in to the hall is quite an affair, I assure you,
+the doorway is blocked up by such a dense crowd; yet there is something
+very touching about these crowds. They open very gently and quietly, and
+they do not look at you with a rude stare, but with faces full of
+feeling and intelligence. I have seen some looks that were really
+beautiful; they go to my heart. The common people appear as if they knew
+that our hearts were with them. How else should it be, as Christians of
+America?--a country which, but for one fault, all the world has reason
+to love.
+
+We went up, as before, into a dressing room, where I was presented to
+many gentlemen and ladies. When we go in, the cheering, clapping, and
+stamping at first strikes one with a strange sensation; but then every
+body looks so heartily pleased and delighted, and there is such an
+all-pervading atmosphere of geniality and sympathy, as makes one in a
+few moments feel quite at home. After all I consider that these cheers
+and applauses, are Scotland's voice to America, a recognition of the
+brotherhood of the countries.
+
+We were arranged at this meeting much as in Glasgow. The lord provost
+presided; and in the gallery with us were distinguished men from the
+magistracy, the university, and the ministry, with their wives, besides
+the members of the antislavery societies. The lord provost, I am told,
+has been particularly efficient in all benevolent operations, especially
+those for the education of the poorer classes. He is also a zealous
+supporter of the temperance cause.
+
+Among the speakers, I was especially interested in Dr. Guthrie, who
+seems to be also a particular favorite of the public. He is a tall, thin
+man, with a kind of quaintness in his mode of expressing himself, which
+sometimes gives an air of drollery to his speaking. He is a minister of
+the Free Church, and has more particularly distinguished himself by his
+exertions in behalf of the poorer classes.
+
+One passage in his speech I will quote, for I was quite amused with it.
+It was in allusion to the retorts which had been made in Mrs. Tyler's
+letter to the ladies of England, on the defects in the old country.
+
+"I do not deny," he said, "that there are defects in our country. What I
+say of them is this--that they are incidental very much to an old
+country like our own. Dr. Simpson knows very well, and so does every
+medical man, that when a man gets old he gets very infirm, his blood
+vessels get ossified, and so on; but I shall not enter into that part of
+the subject. What is true of an old country is true of old men, and old
+women, too. I am very much disposed to say of this young nation of
+America, that their teasing us with our defects might just get the
+answer which a worthy member of the church of Scotland gave to his son,
+who was so dissatisfied with the defects in the church, that he was
+determined to go over to a younger communion. 'Ah, Sandy, Sandy, man,
+when your lum reeks as lang as ours, it will, may be, need sweeping
+too.'[J] Now, I do not deny that we need sweeping; every body knows
+that I have been singing out about sweeping for the last five years. Let
+me tell my good friends in Edinburgh, and in the country, that the
+sooner you sweep the better; for the chimney may catch fire, and reduce
+your noble fabric to ashes.
+
+"They told us in that letter about the poor needlewomen, that had to
+work sixteen hours a day. ''Tis true, and pity 'tis 'tis true.' But does
+the law compel them to work sixteen hours a day? I would like to ask the
+writer of the letter. Are they bound down to their garrets and cellars
+for sixteen hours a day? May they not go where they like, and ask better
+wages and better work? Can the slave do that? Do they tell us of our
+ragged children? I know something about ragged children. But are our
+ragged children condemned to the street? If I, or the lord provost, or
+any other benevolent man, should take one of them from the street and
+bring it to the school, dare the policeman--miscalled officer of
+justice--put his foot across the door to drag it out again to the
+street? Nobody means to defend our defects; does any man attempt to
+defend them? Were not these noble ladies and excellent women, titled and
+untitled, among the very first to seek to redress them?"
+
+I wish I could give you the strong, broad Scotch accent.
+
+The national penny offering, consisting of a thousand golden sovereigns
+on a magnificent silver salver, stood conspicuously in view of the
+audience. It has been an unsolicited offering, given in the smallest
+sums, often from the extreme poverty of the giver. The committee who
+collected it in Edinburgh and Glasgow bore witness to the willingness
+with which the very poorest contributed the offering of their sympathy.
+In one cottage they found a blind woman, and said, "Here, at least, is
+one who will feel no interest, as she cannot have read the book."
+
+"Indeed," said the old lady, "if I cannot read, my son has read it to
+me, and I've got my penny saved to give."
+
+It is to my mind extremely touching to see how the poor, in their
+poverty, can be moved to a generosity surpassing that of the rich. Nor
+do I mourn that they took it from their slender store, because I know
+that a penny given from a kindly impulse is a greater comfort and
+blessing to the poorest giver than even a penny received.
+
+As in the case of the other meeting, we came out long before the
+speeches were ended. Well, of course, I did not sleep any all night. The
+next day I felt quite miserable. Mrs. W. went with Mr. S. and myself for
+a quiet drive in her carriage.
+
+It was a beautiful, sunny day that we drove out to Craigmiller Castle,
+formerly one of the royal residences. It was here that Mary retreated
+after the murder of Rizzio, and where, the chronicler says, she was
+often heard in those days wishing that she were in her grave. It seems
+so strange to see it standing there all alone, in the midst of grassy
+fields, so silent, and cold, and solitary. I got out of the carriage and
+walked about it. The short, green grass was gemmed with daisies, and
+sheep were peacefully feeding and resting, where was once all the life
+and bustle of a court.
+
+We had no one to open the inside of the castle for us, where there are
+still some tolerably preserved rooms, but we strolled listlessly about,
+looking through the old arches, and peeping through slits and loopholes
+into the interior.
+
+The last verse of Queen Mary's lamentation seemed to be sighing in the
+air:--
+
+  "O, soon for me shall simmer's suns
+    Nae mair light up the morn;
+  Nae mair for me the autumn wind
+    Wave o'er the yellow corn.
+  But in the narrow house of death
+    Let winter round me rave,
+  And the next flowers that deck the spring
+    Bloom on my peaceful grave."
+
+Only yesterday, it seemed, since that poor heart was yearning and
+struggling, caught in the toils of this sorrowful life. How many times
+she looked on this landscape through sad eyes! I suppose just such
+little daisies grew here in the grass then, and perhaps she stooped and
+picked them, wishing, just as I do, that the pink did not grow on the
+under side of them, where it does not show. Do you know that this little
+daisy is the _gowan_ of Scotch poetry? So I was told by a "charming
+young Jessie" in Glasgow, one day when I was riding out there.
+
+The view from Craigmiller is beautiful--Auld Reekie, Arthur's Seat,
+Salisbury Crags, and far down the Frith of Forth, where we can just
+dimly see the Bass Hock, celebrated as a prison, where the Covenanters
+were immured.
+
+It was this fortress that Habakkuk Mucklewrath speaks of in his ravings,
+when he says, "Am not I Habakkuk Mucklewrath, whose name is changed to
+Magor-Missabib, because I am made a terror unto myself, and unto all
+that are around me? I heard it: when did I hear it? Was it not in the
+tower of the Bass, that overhangeth the wide, wild sea? and it howled in
+the winds, and it roared in the billows, and it screamed, and it
+whistled, and it clanged, with the screams, and the clang, and the
+whistle of the sea birds, as they floated, and flew, and dropped, and
+dived, on the bosom of the waters."
+
+These Salisbury Crags, which overlook Edinburgh, have a very peculiar
+outline; they resemble an immense elephant crouching down. We passed
+Mushats Cairn, where Jeanie Deans met Robertson; and saw Liberton, where
+Reuben Butler was a schoolmaster. Nobody doubts, I hope, the historical
+accuracy of these points.
+
+Thursday, 21st. We took cars for Aberdeen. The appropriation of old
+historical names to railroad stations often reminds me of Hood's
+whimsical lines on a possible railroad in the Holy Land. Think of having
+Bannockburn shouted by the station master, as the train runs whistling
+up to a small station house. Nothing to be seen there but broad, silent
+meadows, through which the burn wimples its way. Here was the very
+Marathon of Scotland. I suppose we know more about it from the "Scots
+wha ha' wi' Wallace bled," than we do from history; yet the real scene,
+as narrated by the historian, has a moral grandeur in it.
+
+The chronicler tells us, that when on this occasion the Scots formed
+their line of battle, and a venerable abbot passed along, holding up the
+cross before them, the whole army fell upon their knees.
+
+"These Scots will not fight," said Edward, who was reconnoitring at a
+distance. "See! they are all on their knees now to beg for mercy."
+
+"They kneel," said a lord who stood by, "but it is to God alone; trust
+me, those men will win or die."
+
+The bold lyric of Burns is but an inspired kind of version of the real
+address which Bruce is said to have made to his followers; and whoever
+reads it will see that its power lies not in appeal to brute force, but
+to the highest elements of our nature, the love of justice, the sense of
+honor, and to disinterestedness, self-sacrifice, courage unto death.
+
+These things will live and form high and imperishable elements of our
+nature, when mankind have learned to develop them in other spheres than
+that of physical force. Burns's lyric, therefore, has in it an element
+which may rouse the heart to noble endurance and devotion, even when the
+world shall learn war no more.
+
+We passed through the town of Stirling, whose castle, magnificently
+seated on a rocky throne, looks right worthy to have been the seat of
+Scotland's court, as it was for many years. It brought to our minds all
+the last scenes of the Lady of the Lake, which are laid here with a
+minuteness of local description and allusion characteristic of Scott.
+
+According to our guide book, one might find there the visible
+counterpart of every thing which he has woven into his beautiful
+fiction--"the Lady's Rock, which rang to the applause of the multitude;"
+"the Franciscan steeple, which pealed the merry festival;" "the sad and
+fatal mound," apostrophized by Douglas,--
+
+  "That oft has heard the death-axe sound
+  As on the noblest of the land,
+  Fell the stern headsman's bloody hand;"--
+
+the room in the castle, where "a Douglas by his sovereign bled;" and not
+far off the ruins of Cambuskenneth Abbey. One could not but think of the
+old days Scott has described.
+
+  "The castle gates were open flung,
+  The quivering drawbridge rocked and rung,
+  And echoed loud the flinty street
+  Beneath the coursers' clattering feet,
+  As slowly down the steep descent
+  Fair Scotland's king and nobles went,
+  While all along the crowded way
+  Was jubilee and loud huzza."
+
+The place has been long deserted as a palace; but it is one of the four
+fortresses, which, by the articles of union between Scotland and
+England, are always to be kept in repair.
+
+We passed by the town of Perth, the scene of the "Fair Maid's"
+adventures. We had received an invitation to visit it, but for want of
+time were obliged to defer it till our return to Scotland.
+
+Somewhere along here Mr. S. was quite excited by our proximity to
+Scone, the old crowning-place of the Scottish kings; however, the old
+castle is entirely demolished, and superseded by a modern mansion, the
+seat of the Earl of Mansfield.
+
+Still farther on, surrounded by dark and solemn woods, stands Glamis
+Castle, the scene of the tragedy in Macbeth. We could see but a glimpse
+of it from the road, but the very sound of the name was enough to
+stimulate our imagination. It is still an inhabited dwelling, though
+much to the regret of antiquarians and lovers of the picturesque, the
+characteristic outworks and defences of the feudal ages, which
+surrounded it, have been levelled, and velvet lawns and gravel walks
+carried to the very door. Scott, who passed a night there in 1793, while
+it was yet in its pristine condition, comments on the change mournfully,
+as undoubtedly a true lover of the past would. Albeit the grass plats
+and the gravel walks, to the eye of sense, are undoubtedly much more
+agreeable and convenient. Scott says in his Demonology, that he never
+came any where near to being overcome with a superstitious feeling,
+except twice in his life, and one was on the night when he slept in
+Glamis Castle. The poetical and the practical elements in Scott's mind
+ran together, side by side, without mixing, as evidently as the waters
+of the Alleghany and Monongahela at Pittsburg. Scarcely ever a man had
+so much relish for the supernatural, and so little faith in it. One must
+confess, however, that the most sceptical might have been overcome at
+Glamis Castle, for its appearance, by all accounts, is weird and
+strange, and ghostly enough to start the dullest imagination.
+
+On this occasion Scott says, "After a very hospitable reception from the
+late Peter Proctor, seneschal of the castle, I was conducted to my
+apartment in a distant part of the building. I must own, that when I
+heard door after door shut, after my conductor had retired, I began to
+consider myself as too far from the living, and somewhat too near the
+dead. We had passed through what is called 'the King's Room,' a vaulted
+apartment, garnished with stags' antlers and similar trophies of the
+chase, and said by tradition to be the spot of Malcolm's murder, and I
+had an idea of the vicinity of the castle chapel. In spite of the truth
+of history, the whole night scene in Macbeth's castle rushed at once
+upon my mind, and struck my imagination more forcibly than even when I
+have seen its terrors represented by the late John Kemble and his
+inimitable sister. In a word, I experienced sensations which, though not
+remarkable either for timidity or superstition, did not fail to affect
+me to the point of being disagreeable, while they were mingled at the
+same time with a strange and indescribable kind of pleasure."
+
+Externally, the building is quaint and singular enough; tall and gaunt,
+crested with innumerable little pepper box turrets and conical towers,
+like an old French chateau.
+
+Besides the tragedy of Macbeth, another story of still more melancholy
+interest is connected with it, which a pen like that of Hawthorne, might
+work up with gloomy power.
+
+In 1537 the young and beautiful Lady Glamis of this place was actually
+tried and executed for witchcraft. Only think, now! what capabilities in
+this old castle, with its gloomy pine shades, quaint architecture, and
+weird associations, with this bit of historic verity to start upon.
+
+Walter Scott says, there is in the castle a secret chamber; the entrance
+to which, by the law of the family, can be known only to three persons
+at once--the lord of the castle, his heir apparent, and any third
+person whom they might choose to take into their confidence. See, now,
+the materials which the past gives to the novelist or poet in these old
+countries. These ancient castles are standing romances, made to the
+author's hands. The castle started a talk upon Shakspeare, and how much
+of the tragedy he made up, and how much he found ready to his hand in
+tradition and history. It seems the story is all told in Holingshed's
+Chronicles; but his fertile mind has added some of the most thrilling
+touches, such as the sleep walking of Lady Macbeth. It always seemed to
+me that this tragedy had more of the melancholy majesty and power of
+the Greek than any thing modern. The striking difference is, that while
+fate was the radical element of those, free will is not less distinctly
+the basis of this. Strangely enough, while it commences with a
+supernatural oracle, there is not a trace of fatalism in it; but through
+all, a clear, distinct recognition of moral responsibility, of the power
+to resist evil, and the guilt of yielding to it. The theology of
+Shakspeare is as remarkable as his poetry. A strong and clear sense of
+man's moral responsibility and free agency, and of certain future
+retribution, runs through all his plays.
+
+I enjoyed this ride to Aberdeen more than any thing we had seen yet, the
+country is so wild and singular. In the afternoon we came in sight of
+the German Ocean. The free, bracing air from the sea, and the thought
+that it actually _was_ the German Ocean, and that over the other side
+was Norway, within a day's sail of us, gave it a strange, romantic
+charm.
+
+"Suppose we just run over to Norway," said one of us; and then came the
+idea, what we should do if we got over there, seeing none of us
+understood Norse.
+
+The whole coast along here is wild and rock-bound; occasionally long
+points jut into the sea; the blue waves sparkle and dash against them in
+little jets of foam, and the sea birds dive and scream around them.
+
+On one of these points, near the town of Stonehaven, are still seen the
+ruins of Dunottar Castle, bare and desolate, surrounded on all sides by
+the restless, moaning waves; a place justly held accursed as the scene
+of cruelties to the Covenanters, so appalling and brutal as to make the
+blood boil in the recital, even in this late day.
+
+During the reigns of Charles and James, sovereigns whom Macaulay justly
+designates as Belial and Moloch, this castle was the state prison for
+confining this noble people. In the reign of James, one hundred and
+sixty-seven prisoners, men, women, and children, for refusing the oath
+of supremacy, were arrested at their firesides: herded together like
+cattle; driven at the point of the bayonet, amid the gibes, jeers, and
+scoffs of soldiers, up to this dreary place, and thrust promiscuously
+into a dark vault in this castle; almost smothered in filth and mire; a
+prey to pestilent disease, and to every malignity which brutality could
+inflict, they died here unpitied. A few escaping down the rocks were
+recaptured, and subjected to shocking tortures.
+
+A moss-grown gravestone, in the parish churchyard of Dunottar, shows the
+last resting-place of these sufferers.
+
+Walter Scott, who visited this place, says, "The peasantry continue to
+attach to the tombs of these victims an honor which they do not render
+to more splendid mausoleums; and when they point them out to their sons,
+and narrate the fate of the sufferers, usually conclude by exhorting
+them to be ready, should the times call for it, to resist to the death
+in the cause of civil and religious liberty, like their brave
+forefathers."
+
+It is also related by Gilfillan, that a minister from this vicinity,
+having once lost his way in travelling through a distant part of
+Scotland, vainly solicited the services of a guide for some time, all
+being engaged in peat-cutting; at last one of the farmers, some of whose
+ancestors had been included among the sufferers, discovering that he
+came from this vicinity, had seen the gravestones, and could repeat the
+inscriptions, was willing to give up half a day's work to guide him on
+his way.
+
+It is well that such spots should be venerated as sacred shrines among
+the descendants of the Covenanters, to whom Scotland owes what she is,
+and all she may become.
+
+It was here that Scott first became acquainted with Robert Paterson, the
+original of Old Mortality.
+
+Leaving Stonehaven we passed, on a rising ground a little to our left,
+the house of the celebrated Barclay of Ury. It remains very much in its
+ancient condition, surrounded by a low stone wall, like the old
+fortified houses of Scotland.
+
+Barclay of Ury was an old and distinguished soldier, who had fought
+under Gustavus Adolphus in Germany, and one of the earliest converts to
+the principles of the Friends in Scotland. As a Quaker, he became an
+object of hatred and abuse at the hands of the magistracy and populace;
+but he endured all these insults and injuries with the greatest patience
+and nobleness of soul.
+
+"I find more satisfaction," he said, "as well as honor, in being thus
+insulted for my religious principles, than when, a few years ago, it was
+usual for the magistrates, as I passed the city of Aberdeen, to meet me
+on the road and conduct me to public entertainment in their hall, and
+then escort me out again, to gain my favor."
+
+Whittier has celebrated this incident in his beautiful ballad, called
+"Barclay of Ury." The son of this Barclay was the author of that Apology
+which bears his name, and is still a standard work among the Friends.
+The estate is still possessed by his descendants.
+
+A little farther along towards Aberdeen, Mr. S. seemed to amuse himself
+very much with the idea, that we were coming near to Dugald Dalgetty's
+estate of Drumthwacket, an historical remembrance which I take to be
+somewhat apocryphal.
+
+It was towards the close of the afternoon that we found ourselves
+crossing the Dee, in view of Aberdeen. My spirits were wonderfully
+elated: the grand sea scenery and fine bracing air; the noble, distant
+view of the city, rising with its harbor and shipping, all filled me
+with delight. Besides which the Dee had been enchanted for me from my
+childhood, by a wild old ballad which I used to hear sung to a Scottish
+tune, equally wild and pathetic. I repeated it to C----, and will now to
+you.
+
+  "The moon had climbed the highest hill
+    That rises o'er the banks of Dee,
+  And from her farthest summit poured
+    Her silver light o'er tower and tree,--
+
+  When Mary laid her down to sleep,
+    Her thoughts on Sandy far at sea,
+  And soft and low a voice she heard,
+    Saying, 'Mary, weep no more for me.'
+
+  She from her pillow gently raised
+    Her head, to see who there might be;
+  She saw young Sandy shivering stand,
+    With pallid cheek and hollow ee.
+
+  'O Mary dear, cold is my clay;
+    It lies beneath the stormy sea;
+  The storm, is past, and I'm at rest;
+    So, Mary, weep no more for me.'
+
+  Loud crew the cock; the vision fled;
+    No more young Sandy could she see;
+  But soft a parting whisper said,
+    'Sweet Mary, weep no more for me.'"
+
+I never saw these lines in print any where; I never knew who wrote them;
+I had only heard them sung at the fireside when a child, to a tune as
+dreamy and sweet as themselves; but they rose upon me like an
+enchantment, as I crossed the Dee, in view of that very German Ocean,
+famed for its storms and shipwrecks.
+
+In this propitious state, disposed to be pleased with every thing, our
+hearts responded warmly to the greetings of the many friends who were
+waiting for us at the station house.
+
+The lord provost received us into his carriage, and as we drove along,
+pointed out to us the various objects of interest in the beautiful town.
+Among other things, a fine old bridge across the Dee attracted our
+particular attention.
+
+We were conducted to the house of Mr. Cruikshank, a Friend, and found
+waiting for us there the thoughtful hospitality which we had ever
+experienced in all our stopping-places. A snug little quiet supper was
+laid out upon the table, of which we partook in haste, as we were
+informed that the assembly at the hall were waiting to receive us.
+
+There arrived, we found the hall crowded, and with difficulty made our
+way to the platform. Whether owing to the stimulating effect of the air
+from the ocean, or to the comparatively social aspect of the scene, or
+perhaps to both, certain it is, that we enjoyed the meeting with great
+zest. I was surrounded on the stage with blooming young ladies, one of
+whom put into my hands a beautiful bouquet, some flowers of which I have
+now dried in my album. The refreshment tables were adorned with some
+exquisite wax flowers, the work, as I was afterwards told, of a young
+lady in the place. One of the designs especially interested me. It was a
+group of water lilies resting on a mirror, which gave them the
+appearance of growing in the water.
+
+We had some very animated speaking, in which the speakers contrived to
+blend enthusiastic admiration and love for America with detestation of
+slavery.
+
+All the afternoon the beautiful coast had reminded me of the State of
+Maine, and the genius of the meeting confirmed the association. They
+seemed to me to be a plain, genial, strong, warm-hearted people, like
+those of Maine.
+
+One of the speakers concluded his address by saying that John Bull and
+Brother Jonathan, with Paddy and Sandy Scott, should they clasp hands
+together, might stand against the world; which sentiment was responded
+to with thunders of applause.
+
+It is because America, like Scotland, has stood for right against
+oppression, that the Scotch love and sympathize with her. For this
+reason do they feel it as something taken from the strength of a common
+cause, when America sides with injustice and oppression. The children of
+the Covenant and the children of the Puritans are of one blood.
+
+They presented an offering in a beautiful embroidered purse, and after
+much shaking of hands we went home, and sat down to the supper table,
+for a little more chat, before going to bed. The next morning,--as we
+had only till noon to stay in Aberdeen,--our friends, the lord provost,
+and Mr. Leslie, the architect, came immediately after breakfast to show
+us the place.
+
+The town of Aberdeen is a very fine one, and owes much of its beauty to
+the light-colored granite of which most of the houses are built. It has
+broad, clean, beautiful streets, and many very curious and interesting
+public buildings. The town exhibits that union of the hoary past with
+the bustling present which is characteristic of the old world.
+
+It has two parts, the old and the new, as unlike as L'Allegro and
+Penseroso--the new, clean, and modern; the old, mossy and dreamy. The
+old town is called Alton, and has venerable houses, standing, many of
+them, in ancient gardens. And here rises the peculiar, old, gray
+cathedral. These Scotch cathedrals have a sort of stubbed appearance,
+and look like the expression in stone of defiant, invincible resolution.
+This is of primitive granite, in the same heavy, massive style as the
+cathedral of Glasgow, but having strong individualities of its own.
+
+Whoever located the ecclesiastical buildings of England and Scotland
+certainly had an exquisite perception of natural scenery; for one
+notices that they are almost invariably placed on just that point of the
+landscape, where the poet or the artist would say they should be. These
+cathedrals, though all having a general similarity of design, seem, each
+one, to have its own personality, as much as a human being. Looking at
+nineteen of them is no compensation to you for omitting the twentieth;
+there will certainly be something new and peculiar in that.
+
+This Aberdeen Cathedral, or Cathedral of St. Machar, is situated on the
+banks of the River Don; one of those beautiful amber-brown rivers that
+color the stones and pebbles at the bottom with a yellow light, such as
+one sees in ancient pictures. Old trees wave and rustle around, and the
+building itself, though a part of it has fallen into ruins, has, in many
+parts, a wonderful clearness and sharpness of outline. I cannot describe
+these things to you; architectural terms convey no picture to the mind.
+I can only tell you of the character and impression it bears--a
+character of strong, unflinching endurance, appropriately reminding one
+of the Scotch people, whom Walter Scott compares to the native sycamore
+of their hills, "which scorns to be biased in its mode of growth, even
+by the influence of the prevailing wind, but shooting its branches with
+equal boldness in every direction, shows no weather side to the storm,
+and may be broken, but can never be bended."
+
+One reason for the sharpness and distinctness of the architectural
+preservation of this cathedral is probably that closeness of texture for
+which Aberdeen granite is remarkable. It bears marks of the hand of
+violence in many parts. The images of saints and bishops, which lie on
+their backs with clasped hands, seem to have been wofully maltreated and
+despoiled, in the fervor of those days, when people fondly thought that
+breaking down carved work was getting rid of superstition. These granite
+saints and bishops, with their mutilated fingers and broken noses, seem
+to be bearing a silent, melancholy witness against that disposition in
+human nature, which, instead of making clean the cup and platter, breaks
+them altogether.
+
+The roof of the cathedral is a splendid specimen of carving in black
+oak, wrought in panels, with leaves and inscriptions in ancient text.
+The church could once boast in other parts (so says an architectural
+work) a profusion of carved woodwork of the same character, which must
+have greatly relieved the massive plainness of the interior.
+
+In 1649, the parish minister attacked the "High Altar," a piece of the
+most splendid workmanship of any thing of the kind in Europe, and which
+had to that time remained inviolate; perhaps from the insensible
+influence of its beauty. It is said that the carpenter employed for the
+purpose was so struck with the noble workmanship, that he refused to
+touch it till the minister took the hatchet from his hand and gave the
+first blow.
+
+These men did not consider that "the leprosy lies deep within," and
+that when human nature is denied beautiful idols, it will go after ugly
+ones. There has been just as unspiritual a resting in coarse, bare, and
+disagreeable adjuncts of religion, as in beautiful and agreeable ones;
+men have worshipped Juggernaut as pertinaciously as they have Venus or
+the Graces; so that the good divine might better have aimed a sermon at
+the heart than an axe at the altar.
+
+We lingered a long time around here, and could scarcely tear ourselves
+away. We paced up and down under the old trees, looking off on the
+waters of the Don, listening to the waving branches, and falling into a
+dreamy state of mind, thought what if it were six hundred years ago! and
+we were pious simple hearted old abbots! What a fine place that would be
+to walk up and down at eventide or on a Sabbath morning, reciting the
+penitential psalms, or reading St. Augustine!
+
+I cannot get over the feeling, that the souls of the dead do somehow
+connect themselves with the places of their former habitation, and that
+the hush and thrill of spirit, which we feel in them, may be owing to
+the overshadowing presence of the invisible. St. Paul says, "We are
+compassed about with a great cloud of witnesses." How can they be
+witnesses, if they cannot see and be cognizant?
+
+We left the place by a winding walk, to go to the famous bridge of
+Balgounie, another dream-land affair, not far from here. It is a single
+gray stone arch, apparently cut from solid rock, that spans the brown
+rippling waters, where wild, overhanging banks, shadowy trees, and
+dipping wild flowers, all conspire to make a romantic picture. This
+bridge, with the river and scenery, were poetic items that went, with
+other things, to form the sensitive mind of Byron, who lived here in his
+earlier days. He has some lines about it:--
+
+  "As 'auld lang syne' brings Scotland, one and all,
+    Scotch, plaids, Scotch snoods, the blue hills and clear streams,
+  The Dee, the Don, Balgounie's brig's black wall,
+    All my boy-feelings, all my gentler dreams,
+  Of what I then dreamt clothed in their own pall,
+    Like Banquo's offspring,--floating past me seems
+  My childhood, in this childishness of mind:
+    I care not--'tis a glimpse of 'auld lang syne.'"
+
+This old bridge has a prophecy connected with it, which was repeated to
+us, and you shall have it literatim:--
+
+  "Brig of Balgounie, black's your wa',
+  Wi' a wife's ae son, and a mare's a foal,
+  Doon ye shall fa'!"
+
+The bridge was built in the time of Robert Bruce, by one Bishop Cheyne,
+of whom all that I know is, that he evidently had a good eye for the
+picturesque.
+
+After this we went to visit King's College. The tower of it is
+surmounted by a massive stone crown, which forms a very singular feature
+in every view of Aberdeen, and is said to be a perfectly unique specimen
+of architecture. This King's College is very old, being founded also by
+a bishop, as far back as the fifteenth century. It has an exquisitely
+carved roof, and carved oaken seats. We went through the library, the
+hall, and the museum. Certainly, the old, dark architecture of these
+universities must tend to form a different style of mind from our plain
+matter-of-fact college buildings.
+
+Here in Aberdeen is the veritable Marischal College, so often quoted by
+Dugald Dalgetty. We had not time to go and see it, but I can assure you
+on the authority of the guide book, that it is a magnificent specimen of
+architecture.
+
+After this, that we might not neglect the present in our zeal for the
+past, we went to the marble yards, where they work the Aberdeen granite.
+This granite, of which we have many specimens in America, is of two
+kinds, one being gray, the other of a reddish hue. It seems to differ
+from other granite in the fineness and closeness of its grain, which
+enables it to receive the most brilliant conceivable polish. I saw some
+superb columns of the red species, which were preparing to go over the
+Baltic to Riga, for an Exchange; and a sepulchral monument, which was
+going to New York. All was busy here, sawing, chipping, polishing; as
+different a scene from the gray old cathedral as could be imagined. The
+granite finds its way, I suppose, to countries which the old,
+unsophisticated abbots never dreamed of.
+
+One of the friends who had accompanied us during the morning tour was
+the celebrated architect, Mr. Leslie, whose conversation gave us all
+much enjoyment. He and Mrs. Leslie gave me a most invaluable parting
+present, to wit, four volumes of engravings, representing the "Baronial
+and Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland," illustrated by Billings. I
+cannot tell you what a mine of pleasure it has been to me. It is a proof
+edition, and the engravings are so vivid, and the drawing so fine, that
+it is nearly as good as reality. It might almost save one the trouble of
+a pilgrimage. I consider the book a kind of national poem; for
+architecture is, in its nature, poetry; especially in these old
+countries, where it weaves into itself a nation's history, and gives
+literally the image and body of the times.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+
+DEAR COUSIN:--
+
+While here in Aberdeen I received a very odd letter, so peculiar and
+curious that I will give you the benefit of it. The author appears to
+be, in his way, a kind of Christopher in his cave, or Timon of Athens. I
+omit some parts which are more expressive than agreeable. It is dated
+
+  "STONEHAVEN, N.B., Kincardineshire, }
+      57 deg. N.W. This 21st April, 1853. }
+
+     "To MRS. HARRIET B. STOWE:--
+
+     "My dear Madam: By the time that this gets your length, the fouk o'
+     Aberdeen will be shewin ye off as a rare animal, just arrived frae
+     America; the wife that writ Uncle Tom's Cabin.
+
+     "I wad like to see ye mysel, but I canna win for want o' siller,
+     and as I thought ye might be writin a buke about the Scotch when ye
+     get hame, I hae just sent ye this bit auld key to Sawney's Cabin.
+
+     "Well then, dinna forget to speer at the Aberdeenians if it be true
+     they ance kidnappet little laddies, and selt them for slaves; that
+     they dang down the Quaker's kirkyard dyke, and houket up dead
+     Quakers out o' their graves; that the young boys at the college
+     printed a buke, and maist naebody wad buy it, and they cam out to
+     Ury, near Stonehaven, and took twelve stots frae Davie Barclay to
+     pay the printer.
+
+     "Dinna forget to speer at ----, if it was true that he flogget
+     three laddies in the beginning o' last year, for the three
+     following crimes: first, for the crime of being born of puir,
+     ignorant parents; second, for the crime of being left in
+     ignorance; and, third, for the crime of having nothing to eat.
+
+     "Dinna be telling when ye gang hame that ye rode on the Aberdeen
+     railway, made by a hundred men, who were all in the Stonehaven
+     prison for drunkenness; nor above five could sign their names.
+
+     "If the Scotch kill ye with ower feeding and making speeches, be
+     sure to send this hame to tell your fouk, that it was Queen
+     Elizabeth who made the first European law to buy and sell human
+     beings like brute beasts. She was England's glory as a Protestant,
+     and Scotland's shame as the murderer of their bonnie Mary. The auld
+     hag skulked away like a coward in the hour of death. Mary, on the
+     other hand, with calmness and dignity, repeated a Latin prayer to
+     the Great Spirit and Author of her being, and calmly resigned
+     herself into the hands of her murderers.
+
+     "In the capital of her ancient kingdom, when ye are in our country,
+     there are eight hundred women, sent to prison every year for the
+     first time. Of fifteen thousand prisoners examined in Scotland in
+     the year 1845, eight thousand could not write at all, and three
+     thousand could not read.
+
+     "At present there are about twenty thousand prisoners in Scotland.
+     In Stonehaven they are fed at about seventeen pounds each,
+     annually. The honest poor, outside the prison upon the parish roll,
+     are fed at the rate of five farthings a day, or two pounds a year.
+     The employment of the prisoners is grinding the wind, we ca' it;
+     turning the crank, in plain English. The latest improvement is the
+     streekin board; it's a whig improvement o' Lord Jonnie Russell's.
+
+     "I ken brawly ye are a curious wife, and would like to ken a' about
+     the Scotch bodies. Weel, they are a gay, ignorant, proud, drunken
+     pack; they manage to pay ilka year for whuskey one million three
+     hundred and forty-eight thousand pounds.
+
+     "But then their piety, their piety; weel, let's luke at it; hing it
+     up by the nape o' the neck, and turn it round atween our finger and
+     thumb on all sides.
+
+     "Is there one school in all Scotland where the helpless, homeless
+     poor are fed and clothed at the public expense? None.
+
+     "Is there a hame in all Scotland for the cleanly but sick servant
+     maid to go till, until health be restored? Alas! there is none.
+
+     "Is there a school in all Scotland for training ladies in the
+     higher branches of learning? None. What then is there for the women
+     of Scotland?
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     "A weel, be sure and try a cupful of Scottish Kail Broase. See, and
+     get a sup Scotch _lang milk_.
+
+     "Hand this bit line yout to the Rev. Mr. ----. Tell him to store
+     out fats nae true.
+
+     "God bless you, and set you safe hame, is the prayer of the old
+     Scotch Bachelor."
+
+I think you will agree with me, that the old testifying spirit does not
+seem to have died out in Scotland, and that the backslidings and
+abominations of the land do not want for able exponents.
+
+As the indictment runs back to the time of Charles II., to the
+persecutions of the Quakers in the days of Barclay of Ury, and brings up
+again the most modern offences, one cannot but feel that there are the
+most savory indications in it of Scotch thoroughness.
+
+Some of the questions which he wishes to have me "_speer_" at Aberdeen,
+I fear, alas! would bring but an indifferent answer even in Boston,
+which gives a high school only to boys, and allows none to girls. On one
+point, it seems to me, my friend might speer himself to advantage, and
+that is the very commendable efforts which are being made now in
+Edinburgh and Aberdeen both, in the way of educating the children of the
+poor.
+
+As this is one of the subjects which are particularly on my mind, and as
+all information which we can get upon this subject is peculiarly
+valuable to us in view of commencing efforts in America, I will abridge
+for you an account of the industrial schools of Aberdeen, published by
+the society for improving the condition of the laboring classes, in
+their paper called the Laborer's Friend.
+
+In June, 1841, it was ascertained that in Aberdeen there were two
+hundred and eighty children, under fourteen years of age, who maintained
+themselves professedly by begging, but partly by theft. The first effort
+to better the moral condition of these children brought with it the
+discovery which our philanthropists made in New York, that in order to
+do good to a starving child, we must begin by feeding him; that we must
+gain his confidence by showing him a benevolence which he can
+understand, and thus proceed gradually to the reformation of his
+spiritual nature.
+
+In 1841, therefore, some benevolent individuals in Aberdeen hired rooms
+and a teacher, and gave out notice among these poor children that they
+could there be supplied with food, work, and instruction. The general
+arrangement of the day was four hours of lessons, five hours of work,
+and three substantial meals. These meals were employed as the incitement
+to the lessons and the work, since it was made an indispensable
+condition to each meal that the child should have been present at the
+work or lessons which preceded it. This arrangement worked admirably; so
+that they reported that the attendance was more regular than at ordinary
+schools.
+
+The whole produce of the work of the children goes towards defraying the
+expense of the establishment, thus effecting several important
+purposes,--reducing the expense of the school, and teaching the
+children, practically, the value of their industry,--in procuring for
+them food and instruction, and fostering in them, from the first, a
+sound principle of self-dependence; inasmuch as they know, from the
+moment of their entering school, that they give, or pay, in return for
+their food and education, all the work they are capable of performing.
+
+The institution did not profess to clothe the children; but by the
+kindness of benevolent persons who take an interest in the school, there
+is generally a stock of old clothes on hand, from which the most
+destitute are supplied.
+
+The following is the daily routine of the school: The scholars assemble
+every morning at seven in summer, and eight in winter. The school is
+opened by reading the Scriptures, praise, and prayer, and religious
+instruction suited to their years; after which there is a lesson in
+geography, or the more ordinary facts of natural history, taught by
+means of maps and prints distributed along the walls of the school room;
+two days in the week they have a singing lesson; at nine they breakfast
+on porridge and milk, and have half an hour of play; at ten they again
+assemble in school, and are employed at work till two. At two o'clock
+they dine; usually on broth, with coarse wheaten bread, but occasionally
+on potatoes and ox-head soup, &c. The diet is very plain, but nutritious
+and abundant, and appears to suit the tastes of the pupils completely.
+It is a pleasing sight to see them assembled, with their youthful
+appetites sharpened by four hours' work, joining, at least with outward
+decorum, in asking God's blessing on the food he has provided for them,
+and most promptly availing themselves of the signal given to commence
+their dinner.
+
+From dinner till three, the time is spent in exercise or recreation,
+occasionally working in the garden; from three to four, they work either
+in the garden or in the work room; from four till seven, they are
+instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic. At seven they have
+supper of porridge and milk; and after short religious exercises, are
+dismissed to their homes at eight.
+
+On Saturday, they do not return to school after dinner; and
+occasionally, as a reward of good behavior, they accompany the teacher
+in a walk to the country or the sea coast.
+
+On Sunday, they assemble at half past eight for devotion; breakfast at
+nine; attend worship in the school room; after which they dine, and
+return home, so as, if possible, to go with their parents to church in
+the afternoon.
+
+At five they again meet, and have _Sabbath school_ instruction in Bible
+and catechism; at seven, supper; and after evening worship are
+dismissed.
+
+From this detail it will be seen that these schools differ from common
+day schools. In day schools, neither food nor employment is
+provided--teaching only is proposed, with a very little moral training.
+
+The principle on which the industrial school proceeds, of giving
+employment along with instruction--especially as that employment is
+designed at the same time, if possible, to teach a trade which may be
+afterwards available--appears of the highest value. It is a practical
+discipline--a moral training, the importance of which cannot be
+over-estimated.
+
+In a common school, too, there can be but little moral training, however
+efficiently the school may be conducted, just because there is little
+opportunity given for the development and display of individual
+character. The whole management of a school requires that the pupils be
+as speedily as possible brought to a uniform outward conduct, and thus
+an appearance of good behavior and propriety is produced within the
+school room, which is too often cast aside and forgotten the moment the
+pupils pass the threshold.
+
+The remark was once made by an experienced teacher, that for the
+purposes of moral training he valued more the time he spent with his
+pupils at their games, than that which was spent in the school room.
+
+The pecuniary value of the work done in these schools is not so great as
+was at first hoped, from the difficulty of procuring employment such as
+children so neglected could perform to advantage. The real value of the
+thing, however, they consider lies in the habits of industry and the
+sense of independence thus imparted.
+
+At the outset the managers of the school regretted extremely their want
+of ability to furnish lodgings to the children. It was thought and said
+that the homes, to which the majority of them were obliged to return
+after school hours, would deprave faster than any instruction could
+reform. Fortunately it was impossible, at the time, to provide lodging
+for the children, and thus an experience was wrought out most valuable
+to all future laborers in this field.
+
+The managers report that after six years' trial, the instances where
+evil results from the children returning home, are very rare; while
+there have been most cheering instances of substantial good being
+carried by the child, from the school, through the whole family. There
+are few parents, especially mothers, so abandoned as not to be touched
+by kindness shown to their offspring. It is the direct road to the
+mother's heart. Show kindness to her child, and she is prepared at once
+to second your efforts on its behalf. She must be debased, indeed, who
+will not listen to her child repeating its text from the Bible, or
+singing a verse of its infant hymn; and by this means the first seeds of
+a new life may be, and have been, planted in the parent's heart.
+
+In cases where parents are so utterly depraved as to make it entirely
+hopeless to reform the child at home, they have found it the best course
+to board them, two or three together, in respectable families; the
+influences of the family state being held to be essential.
+
+The success which attended the boys' school of industry soon led to the
+establishment of one for girls, conducted on the same principles; and it
+is stated that the change wrought among poor, outcast girls, by these
+means, was even more striking and gratifying than among the boys.
+
+After these schools had been some time in operation, it was discovered
+that there were still multitudes of depraved children who could not or
+did not avail themselves of these privileges. It was determined by the
+authorities of the city of Aberdeen, in conformity with the Scripture
+injunction, to go out into the highways and hedges and _compel_ them to
+come in. Under the authority of the police act they proposed to lay hold
+of the whole of the juvenile vagrants, and provide them with food and
+instruction.
+
+Instructions were given to the police, on the 19th of May, 1845, to
+convey every child found begging to the soup kitchen; and, in the course
+of the day, seventy-five were collected, of whom four only could read.
+The scene which ensued is indescribable. Confusion and uproar,
+quarrelling and fighting, language of the most hateful description, and
+the most determined rebellion against every thing like order and
+regularity, gave the gentlemen engaged in the undertaking of taming them
+the hardest day's work they had ever encountered. Still, they so far
+prevailed, that, by evening, their authority was comparatively
+established. When dismissed, the children were invited to return next
+day--informed that, of course, they could do so or not, as they pleased,
+and that, if they did, they should be fed and instructed, but that,
+whether they came or not, begging would not be tolerated. Next day, the
+_greater part_ returned. The managers felt that they had triumphed, and
+that a great field of moral usefulness was now secured to them.
+
+The class who were brought to this school were far below those who
+attend the other two institutions--low as they appeared to be when the
+schools were first opened; and the scenes of filth, disease, and misery,
+exhibited even in the school itself, were such as would speedily have
+driven from the work all merely sentimental philanthropists. Those who
+undertake this work must have sound, strong principle to influence them,
+else they will soon turn from it in disgust.
+
+The school went on prosperously; it soon excited public interest; funds
+flowed in; and, what is most gratifying, the working classes took a
+lively interest in it; and while the wealthier inhabitants of Aberdeen
+contributed during the year about one hundred and fifty pounds for its
+support, the working men collected, and handed over to the committee, no
+less than two hundred and fifty pounds.
+
+Very few children in attendance at the industrial schools have been
+convicted of any offence. The regularity of attendance is owing to the
+children receiving their food in the school; and the school hours being
+from seven in the morning till seven at night, there is little
+opportunity for the commission of crime.
+
+The experience acquired in these schools, and the connection which most
+of the managers had with the criminal courts of the city, led to the
+opening of a fourth institution--the Child's Asylum. Acting from day to
+day as judges, these gentlemen had occasionally cases brought before
+them which gave them extreme pain. Children--nay, infants--were brought
+up on criminal charges: the facts alleged against them were
+incontestably proved; and yet, in a moral sense, they could scarcely be
+held _guilty_, because, in truth, they did not know that they had done
+wrong.
+
+There were, however, great practical difficulties in the way, which
+could only be got over indirectly. The magistrate could adjourn the
+case, directing the child to be cared for in the mean time, and inquiry
+could be made as to his family and relations, as to his character, and
+the prospect of his doing better in future; and he could either be
+restored to his relations, or boarded in the house of refuge, or with a
+family, and placed at one or other of the industrial schools; the charge
+of crime still remaining against him, to be made use of at once if he
+deserted school and returned to evil courses.
+
+The great advantage sought here was to avoid stamping the child for life
+with the character of a convicted felon before he deserved it. Once thus
+brand a child in this country, and it is all but impossible for him
+ever, by future good conduct, to efface the mask. How careful ought the
+law and those who administer it to be, not rashly to impress this
+stigma on the neglected child!
+
+The Child's Asylum was opened on the 4th of December, 1846; and as a
+proof of the efficiency of the industrial schools in checking juvenile
+vagrancy and delinquency, it may be noticed that nearly a week elapsed
+before a child was brought to the asylum. When a child is apprehended by
+the police for begging, or other misdemeanor, he is conveyed to this
+institution, and his case is investigated; for which purpose the
+committee meets daily. If the child be of destitute parents, he is sent
+to one of the industrial schools; if the child of a worthless, but not
+needy, parent, efforts are made to induce the parent to fulfil his duty,
+and exercise his authority in restraining the evil habits of the child,
+by sending him to school, or otherwise removing him out of the way of
+temptation.
+
+From the 4th of December up to the 18th of March, forty-seven cases,
+several of them more than once, had been brought up and carefully
+inquired into. Most of them were disposed of in the manner now stated;
+but a few were either claimed by, or remitted to, the procurator fiscal,
+as proper objects of punishment.
+
+It is premature to say much of an institution which has existed for so
+short a time; but if the principle on which it is founded be as correct
+and sound as it appears, it must prosper and do good. There is, however,
+one great practical difficulty, which can only be removed by legislative
+enactment: there is no power at present to _detain_ the children in the
+Asylum, or to force them to attend the schools to which they have been
+Bent.
+
+Such have been the rise and progress of the four industrial schools in
+Aberdeen, including, as one of them, the Child's Asylum.
+
+All the schools are on the most catholic basis, the only qualification
+for membership being a subscription of a few shillings a year; and the
+doors are open to all who require admission, without distinction of sect
+or party.
+
+The experience, then, of Aberdeen appears to demonstrate the possibility
+of reclaiming even the most abject and depraved of our juvenile
+population at a very moderate expense. The schools have been so long in
+operation, that, if there had been anything erroneous in the principles
+or the management of them, it must ere now have appeared; and if all the
+results have been encouraging, why should not the system be extended and
+established in other places? There is nothing in it which may not easily
+be copied in any town or village of our land where it is required.
+
+I cannot help adding to this account some directions, which a very
+experienced teacher in these schools gives to those who are desirous of
+undertaking this enterprise.
+
+"1. The school rooms and appurtenances ought to be of the plainest and
+most unpretending description. This is perfectly consistent with the
+most scrupulous cleanliness and complete ventilation. In like manner,
+the food should be wholesome, substantial, and abundant, but very
+plain--such as the boys or girls may soon be able to attain, or even
+surpass, by their own exertions after leaving school.
+
+"2. The teachers must ever be of the best description, patient and
+persevering, not easily discouraged, and thoroughly versed in whatever
+branch they may have to teach; and, above all things, they must be
+persons of solid and undoubted piety--for without this qualification,
+all others will, in the end, prove worthless and unavailing.
+
+"Throughout the day, the children must ever be kept in mind that, after
+all, religion is 'the one thing needful;' that the soul is of more value
+than the body.
+
+"3. _The schools must be kept of moderate size_: from their nature this
+is absolutely necessary. It is a task of the greatest difficulty to
+manage, in a satisfactory manner, a large school of children, even of
+the higher classes, with all the advantages of careful home-training and
+superintendence; but with industrial schools it is folly to attempt it.
+
+"From eighty to one hundred scholars is the largest number that ever
+should be gathered into one institution; when they exceed this, _let
+additional schools be opened_; in other words, _increase the number, not
+the size, of the schools_. They should be put down in the localities
+most convenient for the scholars, so that distance may be no bar to
+attendance; and if circumstances permit, a garden, either at the school
+or at no very great distance, will be of great utility.
+
+"4. As soon as practicable, the children should be taught, and kept
+steadily at, some trade or other, by which they may earn their
+subsistence on leaving school; for the longer they have pursued this
+particular occupation at school, the more easily will they be able
+thereby to support themselves afterwards.
+
+"As to commencing schools in new places, the best way of proceeding is
+for a few persons, who are of one mind on the subject, to unite, advance
+from their own purses, or raise among their friends, the small sum
+necessary at the outset, get their teacher, open their school, and
+collect a few scholars, gradually extend the number, and when they have
+made some progress, then tell the public what they have been doing; ask
+them to come and see; and, if they approve, to give their money and
+support. Public meetings and eloquent speeches are excellent things for
+exciting interest and raising funds, but they are of no use in carrying
+on the every-day work of the school.
+
+"Let not the managers expect impossibilities. There will be crime and
+distress in spite of industrial schools; but they may be immensely
+reduced; and let no one be discouraged by the occasional lapse into a
+crime of a promising pupil. Such things must be while sin reigns in the
+heart of man; let them only be thereby stirred up to greater and more
+earnest exertion in their work.
+
+"Let them be most careful as to the parties whom they admit to _act_
+along with them; for unless _all_ the laborers be of one heart and mind,
+divisions must ensue, and the whole work be marred.
+
+"It is most desirable that as many persons as possible of wealth and
+influence should lend their aid in supporting these institutions.
+Patrons and subscribers should be of all ranks and denominations; but
+they must beware of interfering with the actual daily working of the
+school, which ought to be left to the unfettered energies of those who,
+by their zeal, their activity, their sterling principle, and their
+successful administration, have proved themselves every way competent to
+the task they have undertaken.
+
+"If the managers wish to carry out the good effect of their schools to
+the utmost, then they will not confine their labor to the scholars;
+_they will, through them, get access to the parents_. The good which the
+ladies of the Aberdeen Female School have already thus accomplished is
+not to be told; but let none try this work who do not experimentally
+know the value of the immortal soul."
+
+Industrial schools seem to open a bright prospect to the hitherto
+neglected outcasts of our cities; for them a new era seems to be
+commencing: they are no longer to be restrained and kept in order by the
+iron bars of the prison house, and taught morality by the scourge of the
+executioner. They are now to be treated as reasonable and immortal
+beings; and may He who is the God of the poor as well as the rich give
+his effectual blessing with them, wherever they may be established, so
+that they may be a source of joy and rejoicing to all ranks of society.
+
+Such is the result of the "speerings" recommended by my worthy
+correspondent. I have given them much at length, because they are useful
+to us in the much needed reforms commencing in our cities.
+
+As to the appalling statements about intemperance, I grieve to say that
+they are confirmed by much which must meet the eye even of the passing
+stranger. I have said before how often the natural features of this
+country reminded me of the State of Maine. Would that the beneficent law
+which has removed, to so great an extent, pauperism and crime from that
+noble state might also be given to Scotland.
+
+I suppose that the efforts for the benefit of the poorer classes in this
+city might be paralleled by efforts of a similar nature in the other
+cities of Scotland, particularly in Edinburgh, where great exertions
+have been making; but I happened to have a more full account of these in
+Aberdeen, and so give them as specimens of the whole. I must say,
+however, that in no city which I visited in Scotland did I see such
+neatness, order, and thoroughness, as in Aberdeen; and in none did there
+appear to be more gratifying evidences of prosperity and comfort among
+that class which one sees along the streets and thoroughfares.
+
+About two o'clock we started from Aberdeen among crowds of friends, to
+whom we bade farewell with real regret.
+
+Our way at first lay over the course of yesterday, along that beautiful
+sea coast--beautiful to the eye, but perilous to the navigator. They
+told us that the winds and waves raged here with an awful power. Not
+long before we came, the Duke of Sutherland, an iron steamer, was
+wrecked upon this shore. In one respect the coast of Maine has decidedly
+the advantage over this, and, indeed, of every other sea coast which I
+have ever visited; and that is in the richness of the wooding, which
+veils its picturesque points and capes in luxuriant foldings of verdure.
+
+At Stonehaven station, where we stopped a few minutes, there was quite a
+gathering of the inhabitants to exchange greetings, and afterwards at
+successive stations along the road, many a kindly face and voice made
+our journey a pleasant one.
+
+When we got into old Dundee it seemed all alive with welcome. We went in
+the carriage with the lord provost, Mr. Thoms, to his residence, where a
+party had been waiting dinner for us some time.
+
+The meeting in the evening was in a large church, densely crowded, and
+conducted much as the others had been. When they came to sing the
+closing hymn, I hoped they would sing Dundee; but they did not, and I
+fear in Scotland, as elsewhere, the characteristic national melodies are
+giving way before more modern ones.
+
+On the stage we were surrounded by many very pleasant people, with whom,
+between the services, we talked without knowing their names. The
+venerable Dr. Dick, the author of the Christian Philosopher and the
+Philosophy of the Future State, was there. Gilfillan was also present,
+and spoke. Together with their contribution to the Scottish offering,
+they presented me with quite a collection of the works of different
+writers of Dundee, beautifully bound.
+
+We came away before the exercises of the evening were finished.
+
+The next morning we had quite a large breakfast party, mostly ministers
+and their wives. Good old Dr. Dick was there, and I had an introduction
+to him, and had pleasure in speaking to him of the interest with which
+his works have been read in America. Of this fact I was told that he had
+received more substantial assurance in a comfortable sum of money
+subscribed and remitted to him by his American readers. If this be so it
+is a most commendable movement.
+
+What a pity it was, during Scott's financial embarrassments, that every
+man, woman, and child in America, who had received pleasure from his
+writings, had not subscribed something towards an offering justly due to
+him!
+
+Our host, Mr. Thoms, was one of the first to republish in Scotland
+Professor Stuart's Letters to Dr. Channing, with a preface of his own.
+He showed me Professor Stuart's letter in reply, and seemed rather
+amused that the professor directed it to the Rev. James Thom, supposing,
+of course, that so much theological zeal could not inhere in a layman.
+He also showed us many autograph letters of their former pastor, Mr.
+Cheyne, whose interesting memoirs have excited a good deal of attention
+in some circles in America.
+
+After breakfast the ladies of the Dundee Antislavery Society called, and
+then the lord provost took us in his carriage to see the city. Dundee is
+the third town of Scotland in population, and a place of great
+antiquity. Its population in 1851 was seventy-eight thousand eight
+hundred and twenty-nine, and the manufactures consist principally of
+yarns, linen, with canvas and cotton bagging, great quantities of which
+are exported to France and North and South America. There are about
+sixty spinning mills and factories in the town and neighborhood, besides
+several iron founderies and manufactories of steam engines and
+machinery.
+
+Dundee has always been a stronghold of liberty and the reformed
+religion. It is said that in the grammar school of this town William
+Wallace was educated; and here an illustrious confraternity of noblemen
+and gentry was formed, who joined to resist the tyranny of England.
+
+Here Wishart preached in the beginning of the reformation, preparatory
+to his martyrdom. Here flourished some rude historical writers, who
+devoted their talents to the downfall of Popery. Singularly enough, they
+accomplished this in part by dramatic representations, in which the
+vices and absurdities of the Papal establishment were ridiculed before
+the people. Among others, one James Wedderburn and his brother, John,
+vicar of Dundee, are mentioned as having excelled in this kind of
+composition. The same authors composed books of song, denominated "Gude
+and Godly Ballads," wherein the frauds and deceits of Popery were fully
+pointed out. A third brother of the family, being a musical genius, it
+is said, "turned the times and tenor of many profane songs into godly
+songs and hymns, whereby he stirred up the affections of many," which
+tunes were called the Psalms of Dundee. Here, perhaps, was the origin of
+"Dundee's wild warbling measures."
+
+The conjoint forces of tragedy, comedy, ballads, and music, thus brought
+to bear on the popular mind, was very great.
+
+Dundee has been a great sufferer during the various civil commotions in
+Scotland. In the time of Charles I. it stood out for the solemn league
+and covenant, for which crime the Earl of Montrose was sent against it,
+who took and burned it. It is said that he called Dundee a most
+seditious town, the securest haunt and receptacle of rebels, and a place
+that had contributed as much as any other to the rebellion. Yet
+afterwards, when Montrose was led a captive through Dundee, the
+historian observes, "It is remarkable of the town of Dundee, in which he
+lodged one night, that though it had suffered more by his army than any
+town else within the kingdom, yet were they, amongst all the rest, so
+far from exulting over him, that the whole town testified a great deal
+of sorrow for his woful condition; and there was he likewise furnished
+with clothes suitable to his birth and person."
+
+This town of Dundee was stormed by Monk and the forces of Parliament
+during the time of the commonwealth, because they had sheltered the
+fugitive Charles II., and granted him money. When taken by Monk, he
+committed a great many barbarities.
+
+It has also been once visited by the plague, and once with a seven
+years' dearth or famine.
+
+Most of these particulars I found in a History of Dundee, which formed
+one of the books presented to me.
+
+The town is beautifully situated on the Firth of Tay, which here spreads
+its waters, and the quantity of shipping indicates commercial
+prosperity.
+
+I was shown no abbeys or cathedrals, either because none ever existed,
+or because they were destroyed when the town was fired.
+
+In our rides about the city, the local recollections that our friends
+seemed to recur to with as much interest as any, were those connected
+with the queen's visit to Dundee, in 1844. The spot where she landed has
+been commemorated by the erection of a superb triumphal arch in stone.
+The provost said some of the people were quite astonished at the
+plainness of the queen's dress, having looked for something very
+dazzling and overpowering from a queen. They could scarcely believe
+their eyes, when they saw her riding by in a plain bonnet, and enveloped
+in a simple shepherd's plaid.
+
+The queen is exceedingly popular in Scotland, doubtless in part because
+she heartily appreciated the beauty of the country, and the strong and
+interesting traits of the people. She has a country residence at
+Balmorrow, where she spends a part of every year; and the impression
+seems to prevail among her Scottish subjects, that she never appears to
+feel herself more happy or more at home than in this her Highland
+dwelling. The legend is, that here she delights to throw off the
+restraints of royalty; to go about plainly dressed, like a private
+individual; to visit in the cottages of the poor; to interest herself in
+the instruction of the children; and to initiate the future heir of
+England into that practical love of the people which is the best
+qualification for a ruler.
+
+I repeat to you the things which I hear floating of the public
+characters of England, and you can attach what degree of credence you
+may think proper. As a general rule in this censorious world, I think it
+safe to suppose that the good which is commonly reported of public
+characters, if not true in the letter of its details, is at least so in
+its general spirit. The stories which are told about distinguished
+people generally run in a channel coincident with the facts of their
+character. On the other hand, with regard to evil reports, it is safe
+always to allow something for the natural propensity to detraction and
+slander, which is one of the most undoubted facts of human nature in all
+lands.
+
+We left Dundee at two o'clock, by cars, for Edinburgh. In the evening we
+attended another _soiree_ of the working men of Edinburgh. As it was
+similar in all respects to the one at Glasgow, I will not dwell upon it,
+further than to say how gratifying to me, in every respect, are
+occasions in which working men, as a class, stand out before the public.
+_They_ are to form, more and more, a new power in society, greater than
+the old power of helmet and sword, and I rejoice in every indication
+that they are learning to understand themselves.
+
+We have received letters from the working men, both in Dundee and
+Glasgow, desiring our return to attend _soirees_ in those cities.
+Nothing could give us greater pleasure, had we time and strength. No
+class of men are more vitally interested in the conflict of freedom
+against slavery than working men. The principle upon which slavery is
+founded touches every interest of theirs. If it be right that one half
+of the community should deprive the other half of education, of all
+opportunities to rise in the world, of all property rights and all
+family ties, merely to make them more convenient tools for their profit
+and luxury, then every injustice and extortion, which oppresses the
+laboring man in any country, can be equally defended.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+
+DEAR AUNT E.:--
+
+You wanted us to write about our visit to Melrose; so here you have it.
+
+On Tuesday morning Mr. S. and C---- had agreed to go back to Glasgow for
+the purpose of speaking at a temperance meeting, and as we were
+restricted for time, we were obliged to make the visit to Melrose in
+their absence, much to the regret of us all. G---- thought we would make
+a little quiet run out in the cars by ourselves, while Mr. S. and
+C---- were gone back to Glasgow.
+
+It was one of those soft, showery, April days, misty and mystical, now
+weeping and now shining, that we found ourselves whirled by the cars
+through this enchanted ground of Scotland. Almost every name we heard
+spoken along the railroad, every stream we passed, every point we looked
+at, recalled some line of Walter Scott's poetry, or some event of
+history. The thought that he was gone forever, whose genius had given
+the charm to all, seemed to settle itself down like a melancholy mist.
+To how little purpose seemed the few, short years of his life, compared
+with the capabilities of such a soul! Brilliant as his success had been,
+how was it passed like a dream! It seemed sad to think that he had not
+only passed away himself, but that almost the whole family and friendly
+circle had passed with him--not a son left to bear his name!
+
+Here we were in the region of the Ettrick, the Yarrow, and the Tweed. I
+opened the Lay of the Last Minstrel, and, as if by instinct, the first
+lines my eye fell upon were these:--
+
+  "Call it not vain: they do not err
+    Who say, that when the poet dies,
+  Mute nature mourns her worshipper,
+    And celebrates his obsequies;
+  Who say, tall cliff and cavern lone
+  For the departed bard make moan;
+  That mountains weep in crystal rill;
+  That flowers in tears of balm distil;
+  Through his loved groves that breezes sigh,
+  And oaks, in deeper groan, reply;
+  And rivers teach their rushing wave
+  To murmur dirges round his grave."
+
+"Melrose!" said the loud voice of the conductor; and starting, I looked
+up and saw quite a flourishing village, in the midst of which rose the
+old, gray, mouldering walls of the abbey. Now, this was somewhat of a
+disappointment to me. I had been somehow expecting to find the building
+standing alone in the middle of a great heath, far from all abodes of
+men, and with no companions more hilarious than the owls. However, it
+was no use complaining; the fact was, there was a village, and what was
+more, a hotel, and to this hotel we were to go to get a guide for the
+places we were to visit; for it was understood that we were to "_do_"
+Melrose, Dryburgh, and Abbotsford, all in one day. There was no time for
+sentiment; it was a business affair, that must be looked in the face
+promptly, if we meant to get through. Ejaculations and quotations of
+poetry could, of course, be thrown in, as William, of Deloraine pattered
+his prayers, while riding.
+
+We all alighted at a very comfortable hotel, and were ushered into as
+snug a little parlor as one's heart could desire.
+
+[Illustration: East Window of Melrose Abbey.]
+
+The next thing was to hire a coachman to take us, in the rain,--for the
+mist had now swelled into a rain,--through the whole appropriate round.
+I stood by and heard names which I had never heard before, except in
+song, brought into view in their commercial relations; so much for
+Abbotsford; and so much for Dryburgh; and then, if we would like to
+throw in Thomas the Rhymer's Tower, why, that would be something extra.
+
+"Thomas the Rhymer?" said one of the party, not exactly posted up. "Was
+he any thing remarkable? Well, is it worth while to go to his tower? It
+will cost something extra, and take more time."
+
+Weighed in such a sacrilegious balance, Thomas was found wanting, of
+course: the idea of driving three or four miles farther to see an old
+tower, supposed to have belonged to a man who is supposed to have
+existed and to have been carried off by a supposititious Queen of the
+Fairies into Elfland, was too absurd for reasonable people; in fact, I
+made believe myself that I did not care much about it, particularly as
+the landlady remarked, that if we did not get home by five o'clock "the
+chops might be spoiled."
+
+As we all were packed into a tight coach, the rain still pouring, I
+began to wish mute Nature would not be quite so energetic in distilling
+her tears. A few sprinkling showers, or a graceful wreath of mist, might
+be all very well; but a steady, driving rain, that obliged us to shut up
+the carriage windows, and coated them with mist so that we could not
+look out, why, I say it is enough to put out the fire of sentiment in
+any heart. We might as well have been rolled up in a bundle and carried
+through the country, for all the seeing it was possible to do under such
+circumstances. It, therefore, should be stated, that we did keep bravely
+up in our poetic zeal, which kindly Mrs. W. also reenforced, by
+distributing certain very delicate sandwiches to support the outer man.
+
+At length, the coach stopped at the entrance of Abbotsford grounds,
+where there was a cottage, out of which, due notice being given, came a
+trim, little old woman in a black gown, with pattens on; she put up her
+umbrella, and we all put up ours; the rain poured harder than ever as we
+went dripping up the gravel walk, looking much, I inly fancied, like a
+set of discomforted fowls fleeing to covert. We entered the great court
+yard, surrounded with a high wall, into which were built sundry
+fragments of curious architecture that happened to please the poet's
+fancy.
+
+I had at the moment, spite of the rain, very vividly in my mind
+Washington Irving's graceful account of his visit to Abbotsford while
+this house was yet building, and the picture which he has given of
+Walter Scott sitting before his door, humorously descanting on various
+fragments of sculpture, which lay scattered about, and which he intended
+to immortalize by incorporating into his new dwelling.
+
+Viewed as a mere speculation, or, for aught I know, as an architectural
+effort, this building may, perhaps, be counted as a mistake and a
+failure. I observe, that it is quite customary to speak of it, among
+some, as a pity that he ever undertook it. But viewed as a development
+of his inner life, as a working out in wood and stone of favorite
+fancies and cherished ideas, the building has to me a deep interest. The
+gentle-hearted poet delighted himself in it; this house was his stone
+and wood poem, as irregular, perhaps, and as contrary to any established
+rule, as his Lay of the Last Minstrel, but still wild and poetic. The
+building has this interest, that it was throughout his own conception,
+thought, and choice; that he expressed himself in every stone that was
+laid, and made it a kind of shrine, into which he wove all his treasures
+of antiquity, and where he imitated, from the beautiful, old, mouldering
+ruins of Scotland, the parts that had touched him most deeply.
+
+The walls of one room were of carved oak from the Dunfermline Abbey; the
+ceiling of another imitated from Roslin Castle; here a fireplace was
+wrought in the image of a favorite niche in Melrose; and there the
+ancient pulpit of Erskine was wrought into a wall. To him, doubtless,
+every object in the house was suggestive of poetic fancies; every
+carving and bit of tracery had its history, and was as truly an
+expression of something in the poet's mind as a verse of his poetry.
+
+A building wrought out in this way, and growing up like a bank of coral,
+may very possibly violate all the proprieties of criticism; it may
+possibly, too, violate one's ideas of mere housewifery utility; but by
+none of these rules ought such a building to be judged. We should look
+at it rather as the poet's endeavor to render outward and visible the
+dream land of his thoughts, and to create for himself a refuge from the
+cold, dull realities of life, in an architectural romance.
+
+These were thoughts which gave interest to the scene as we passed
+through the porchway, adorned with petrified stags' horns, into the long
+entrance hall of the mansion. This porch was copied from one in
+Linlithgow palace. One side of this hall was lighted by windows of
+painted glass. The floor was of black and white marble from the
+Hebrides. Round the whole cornice there was a line of coats armorial,
+richly blazoned, and the following inscription in old German text:
+
+"These be the coat armories of the clanns and chief men of name wha
+keepit the marchys of Scotland in the old tyme for the kynge. Trewe men
+war they in their tyme, and in their defence God them defendyt."
+
+There were the names of the Douglases, the Elliots, the Scotts, the
+Armstrongs, and others. I looked at this arrangement with interest,
+because I knew that Scott must have taken a particular delight in it.
+
+The fireplace, designed from a niche in Melrose Abbey, also in this
+room, and a choice bit of sculpture it is. In it was an old grate, which
+had its history also, and opposite to it the boards from the pulpit of
+Erskine were wrought into a kind of side table, or something which
+served that purpose. The spaces between the windows were decorated with
+pieces of armor, crossed swords, and stags' horns, each one of which
+doubtless had its history. On each side of the door, at the bottom of
+the hall, was a Gothic shrine, or niche, in both of which stood a figure
+in complete armor.
+
+Then we went into the drawing room; a lofty saloon, the woodwork of
+which is entirely of cedar, richly wrought; probably another of the
+author's favorite poetic fancies. It is adorned with a set of splendid
+antique ebony furniture; cabinet, chairs, and piano--the gift of George
+IV. to the poet.
+
+We went into his library; a magnificent room, on which, I suppose, the
+poet's fancy had expended itself more than any other. The roof is of
+carved oak, after models from Roslin Castle. Here, in a niche, is a
+marble bust of Scott, as we understood a present from Chantrey to the
+poet; it was one of the best and most animated representations of him I
+ever saw, and very much superior to the one under the monument in
+Edinburgh. On expressing my idea to this effect, I found I had struck
+upon a favorite notion of the good woman who showed us the
+establishment; she seemed to be an ancient servant of the house, and
+appeared to entertain a regard for the old laird scarcely less than
+idolatry. One reason why this statue is superior is, that it represents
+his noble forehead, which the Edinburgh one suffers to be concealed by
+falling hair: to cover _such_ a forehead seems scarcely less than a
+libel.
+
+The whole air of this room is fanciful and picturesque in the extreme.
+The walls are entirely filled with the bookcases, there being about
+twenty thousand volumes. A small room opens from the library, which was
+Scott's own private study. His writing table stood in the centre, with
+his inkstand on it, and before it a large, plain, black leather arm
+chair.
+
+In a glass case, I think in this room, was exhibited the suit of clothes
+he last wore; a blue coat with large metal buttons, plaid trousers, and
+broad-brimmed hat. Around the sides of this room there was a gallery of
+light tracery work; a flight of stairs led up to it, and in one corner
+of it was a door which the woman said led to the poet's bed room. One
+seemed to see in all this arrangement how snug, and cozy, and
+comfortable the poet had thus ensconced himself, to give himself up to
+his beloved labors and his poetic dreams. But there was a cold and
+desolate air of order and adjustment about it which reminds one of the
+precise and chilling arrangements of a room from which has just been
+carried out a corpse; all is silent and deserted.
+
+The house is at present the property of Scott's only surviving daughter,
+whose husband has assumed the name of Scott. We could not learn from our
+informant whether any of the family was in the house. We saw only the
+rooms which are shown to visitors, and a coldness, like that of death,
+seemed to strike to my heart from their chilly solitude.
+
+As we went out of the house we passed another company of tourists coming
+in, to whom we heard our guide commencing the same recitation, "this
+is," and "this is," &c., just as she had done to us. One thing about the
+house and grounds had disappointed me; there was not one view from a
+single window I saw that was worth any thing, in point of beauty; why a
+poet, with an eye for the beautiful, could have located a house in such
+an indifferent spot, on an estate where so many beautiful sites were at
+his command, I could not imagine.
+
+As to the external appearance of Abbotsford, it is as irregular as can
+well be imagined. There are gables, and pinnacles, and spires, and
+balconies, and buttresses any where and every where, without rhyme or
+reason; for wherever the poet wanted a balcony, he had it; or wherever
+he had a fragment of carved stone, or a bit of historic tracery, to put
+in, he made a shrine for it forthwith, without asking leave of any
+rules. This I take to be one of the main advantages of Gothic
+architecture; it is a most catholic and tolerant system, and any kind of
+eccentricity may find refuge beneath its mantle.
+
+Here and there, all over the house, are stones carved with armorial
+bearings and pious inscriptions, inserted at random wherever the poet
+fancied. Half way up the wall in one place is the door of the old
+Tolbooth at Edinburgh, with the inscription over it, "The Lord of armeis
+is my protector; blissit ar thay that trust in the Lord. 1575."
+
+A doorway at the west end of the house is composed of stones which
+formed the portal of the Tolbooth, given to Sir Walter on the pulling
+down of the building in 1817.
+
+On the east side of the house is a rude carving of a sword with the
+words, "Up with ye, sutors of Selkyrke. A.D. 1525." Another inscription,
+on the same side of the house, runs thus:--
+
+  "By night, by day, remember ay
+    The goodness of ye Lord;
+  And thank his name, whose glorious fame
+    Is spread throughout ye world.--A.C.M.D. 1516."
+
+In the yard, to the right of the doorway of the mansion, we saw the
+figure of Scott's favorite dog Maida, with a Latin inscription--
+
+  "Maidae marmorea dormis sub imagine, Maida,
+  Ad januam domini: sit tibi terra levis."
+
+Which in our less expressive English we might render--
+
+  At thy lord's door, in slumbers light and blest,
+  Maida, beneath this marble Maida, rest:
+  Light lie the turf upon thy gentle breast.
+
+One of the most endearing traits of Scott was that sympathy and harmony
+which always existed between him and the brute creation.
+
+Poor Maida seemed cold and lonely, washed by the rain in the damp grass
+plat. How sad, yet how expressive is the scriptural phrase for
+indicating death! "He shall return to his house no more, neither shall
+his place know him any more." And this is what all our homes are coming
+to; our buying, our planting, our building, our marrying and giving in
+marriage, our genial firesides and dancing children, are all like so
+many figures passing through the magic lantern, to be put out at last in
+death.
+
+The grounds, I was told, are full of beautiful paths and seats, favorite
+walks and lounges of the poet; but the obdurate pertinacity of the rain
+compelled us to choose the very shortest path possible to the carriage.
+I picked a leaf of the Portugal laurel, which I send you.
+
+Next we were driven to Dryburgh, or rather to the banks of the Tweed,
+where a ferryman, with a small skiff waits to take passengers over.
+
+The Tweed is a clear, rippling river, with a white, pebbly bottom, just
+like our New England mountain streams. After we landed we were to walk
+to the Abbey. Our feet were damp and cold, and our boatman invited us to
+his cottage. I found him and all his family warmly interested in the
+fortunes of Uncle Tom and his friends, and for his sake they received me
+as a long-expected friend. While I was sitting by the ingleside,--that
+is, a coal grate,--warming my feet, I fell into conversation with my
+host. He and his family, I noticed, spoke English more than Scotch; he
+was an intelligent young man, in appearance and style of mind precisely
+what you might expect to meet in a cottage in Maine. He and all the
+household, even the old grandmother, had read Uncle Tom's Cabin, and
+were perfectly familiar with all its details. He told me that it had
+been universally read in the cottages in the vicinity. I judged from his
+mode of speaking, that he and his neighbors were in the habit of reading
+a great deal. I spoke of going to Dryburgh to see the grave of Scott,
+and inquired if his works were much read by the common people. He said
+that Scott was not so much a favorite with the people as Burns. I
+inquired if he took a newspaper. He said that the newspapers were kept
+at so high a price that working men were not able to take them;
+sometimes they got sight of them through clubs, or by borrowing. How
+different, thought I, from America, where a workingman would as soon
+think of going without his bread as without his newspaper!
+
+The cottages of these laboring people, of which there were a whole
+village along here, are mostly of stone, thatched with straw. This
+thatch sometimes gets almost entirely grown over with green moss. Thus
+moss-covered was the roof of the cottage where we stopped, opposite to
+Dryburgh grounds.
+
+There was about this time one of those weeping pauses in the showery
+sky, and a kind of thinning and edging away of the clouds, which gave
+hope that perhaps the sun was going to look out, and give to our
+persevering researches the countenance of his presence. This was
+particularly desirable, as the old woman, who came out with her keys to
+guide us, said she had a cold and a cough: we begged that she would not
+trouble herself to go with us at all. The fact is, with all respect to
+nice old women, and the worthy race of guides in general, they are not
+favorable to poetic meditation. We promised to be very good if she would
+let us have the key, and lock up all the gates, and bring it back; but
+no, she was faithfulness itself, and so went coughing along through the
+dripping and drowned grass to open the gates for us.
+
+This Dryburgh belongs now to the Earl of Buchan, having been bought by
+him from a family of the name of Haliburton, ancestral connections of
+Scott, who, in his autobiography, seems to lament certain mischances of
+fortune which prevented the estate from coming into his own family, and
+gave them, he said, nothing but the right of stretching their bones
+there. It seems a pity, too, because the possession of this rich, poetic
+ruin would have been a mine of wealth to Scott, far transcending the
+stateliest of modern houses.
+
+Now, if you do not remember Scott's poem, of the Eve of St. John, you
+ought to read it over; for it is, I think, the most spirited of all his
+ballads; nothing conceals the transcendent lustre and beauty of these
+compositions, but the splendor of his other literary productions. Had he
+never written any thing but these, they would have made him a name as a
+poet. As it was, I found the fanciful chime of the cadences in this
+ballad ringing through my ears. I kept saying to myself--
+
+  "The Dryburgh bells do ring,
+  And the white monks do sing
+  For Sir Richard of Coldinghame."
+
+And as I was wandering around in the labyrinth, of old, broken, mossy
+arches, I thought--
+
+  "There is a nun in Dryburgh bower
+    Ne'er looks upon the sun;
+  There is a monk in Melrose tower,
+    He speaketh word to none.
+
+  That nun who ne'er beholds the day,
+    That monk who speaks to none,
+  That nun was Smaylhome's lady gay,
+    That monk the bold Baron."
+
+It seems that there is a vault in this edifice which has had some
+superstitious legends attached to it, from having been the residence,
+about fifty years ago, of a mysterious lady, who, being under a vow
+never to behold the light of the sun, only left her cell at midnight.
+This little story, of course, gives just enough superstitious chill to
+this beautiful ruin to help the effect of the pointed arches, the
+clinging wreaths of ivy, the shadowy pines, and yew trees; in short, if
+one had not a guide waiting, who had a bad cold, if one could stroll
+here at leisure by twilight or moonlight, one might get up a
+considerable deal of the mystic and poetic.
+
+There is a part of the ruin that stands most picturesquely by itself, as
+if old Time had intended it for a monument. It is the ruin of that part
+of the chapel called St. Mary's Aisle; it stands surrounded by luxuriant
+thickets of pine and other trees, a cluster of beautiful Gothic arches
+supporting a second tier of smaller and more fanciful ones, one or two
+of which have that light touch of the Moorish in their form which gives
+such a singular and poetic effect in many of the old Gothic ruins. Out
+of these wild arches and windows wave wreaths of ivy, and slender
+harebells shake their blue pendants, looking in and out of the lattices
+like little capricious fairies. There are fragments of ruins lying on
+the ground, and the whole air of the thing is as wild, and dreamlike,
+and picturesque as the poet's fanciful heart could have desired.
+
+Underneath these arches he lies beside his wife; around him the
+representation of the two things he loved most--the wild bloom and
+beauty of nature, and the architectural memorial of by-gone history and
+art. Yet there was one thing I felt I would have had otherwise; it
+seemed to me that the flat stones of the pavement are a weight too heavy
+and too cold to be laid on the breast of a lover of nature and the
+beautiful. The green turf, springing with flowers, that lies above a
+grave, does not seem, to us so hopeless a barrier between us and what
+was warm and loving; the springing grass and daisies there seem, types
+and assurances that the mortal beneath shall put on immortality; they
+come up to us as kind messages from the peaceful dust, to say that it is
+resting in a certain hope of a glorious resurrection.
+
+On the cold flagstones, walled in by iron railings, there were no
+daisies and no moss; but I picked many of both from, the green turf
+around, which, with some sprigs of ivy from the walls, I send you.
+
+It is strange that we turn away from the grave of this man, who achieved
+to himself the most brilliant destiny that ever an author did,--raising
+himself by his own unassisted efforts to be the chosen companions of
+nobles and princes, obtaining all that heart could desire of riches and
+honor,--we turn away and say, Poor Walter Scott! How desolately touching
+is the account in Lockhart, of his dim and indistinct agony the day his
+wife was brought here to be buried! and the last part of that biography
+is the saddest history that I know; it really makes us breathe a long
+sigh of relief when we read of the lowering of the coffin into this
+vault.
+
+What force does all this give to the passage in his diary in which he
+records his estimate of life!--"What is this world? a dream within a
+dream. As we grow older, each step is an awakening. The youth awakes, as
+he thinks, from childhood; the full-grown man despises the pursuits of
+youth as visionary; the old man looks on manhood as a feverish dream.
+The grave the last sleep? No; it is the last and final awakening."
+
+It has often been remarked, that there is no particular moral purpose
+aimed at by Scott in his writings; he often speaks of it himself in his
+last days, in a tone of humility. He represents himself as having been
+employed mostly in the comparatively secondary department of giving
+innocent amusement. He often expressed, humbly and earnestly, the hope
+that he had, at least, done no harm; but I am inclined to think, that
+although moral effect was not primarily his object, yet the influence of
+his writings and whole existence on earth has been decidedly good.
+
+It is a great thing to have a mind of such power and such influence,
+whose recognitions of right and wrong, of virtue and vice, were, in most
+cases, so clear and determined. He never enlists our sympathies in favor
+of vice, by drawing those seductive pictures, in which it comes so near
+the shape and form of virtue that the mind is puzzled as to the boundary
+line. He never makes young ladies feel that they would like to marry
+corsairs, pirates, or sentimental villains of any description. The most
+objectionable thing, perhaps, about his influence, is its sympathy with
+the war spirit. A person Christianly educated can hardly read some of
+his descriptions in the Lady of the Lake and Marmion without an emotion
+of disgust, like what is excited by the same things in Homer; and as the
+world comes more and more under the influence of Christ, it will recede
+more and more from this kind of literature.
+
+Scott has been censured as being wilfully unjust to the Covenanters and
+Puritans. I think he meant really to deal fairly by them, and that what
+_he_ called fairness might seem rank injustice to those brought up to
+venerate them, as we have been. I suppose that in Old Mortality it was
+Scott's honest intention to balance the two parties about fairly, by
+putting on the Covenant side his good, steady, well-behaved hero, Mr.
+Morton, who is just as much of a Puritan as the Puritans would have been
+had they taken Sir Walter Scott's advice; that is to say, a very nice,
+sensible, moral man, who takes the Puritan side because he thinks it the
+_right_ side, but contemplates all the devotional enthusiasm and
+religious ecstasies of his associates from a merely artistic and
+pictorial point of view. The trouble was, when he got his model Puritan
+done, nobody ever knew what he was meant for; and then all the young
+ladies voted steady Henry Morton a bore, and went to falling in love
+with his Cavalier rival, Lord Evandale, and people talked as if it was a
+preconcerted arrangement of Scott, to surprise the female heart, and
+carry it over to the royalist side.
+
+The fact was, in describing Evandale he made a living, effective
+character, because he was describing something he had full sympathy
+with, and put his whole life into; but Henry Morton is a laborious
+arrangement of starch and pasteboard to produce one of those
+supposititious, just-right men, who are always the stupidest of mortals
+after they are made. As to why Scott did not describe such a character
+as the martyr Duke of Argyle, or Hampden, or Sir Harry Vane, where high
+birth, and noble breeding, and chivalrous sentiment were all united with
+intense devotional fervor, the answer is, that he could not do it; he
+had not that in him wherewith to do it; a man cannot create that of
+which he has not first had the elements in himself; and devotional
+enthusiasm is a thing which Scott never felt. Nevertheless, I believe
+that he was perfectly sincere in saying that he would, "if necessary,
+die a martyr for Christianity." He had calm, firm principle to any
+extent, but it never was kindled into fervor. He was of too calm and
+happy a temperament to sound the deepest recesses of souls torn up from
+their depths by mighty conflicts and sorrows. There are souls like the
+"alabaster vase of ointment, very precious," which shed no perfume of
+devotion because a great sorrow has never broken them. Could Scott have
+been given back to the world again after the heavy discipline of life
+had passed over him, he would have spoken otherwise of many things. What
+he vainly struggled to say to Lockhart on his death bed would have been
+a new revelation, of his soul to the world, could he have lived to
+unfold it in literature. But so it is: when we have learned to live,
+life's purpose is answered, and we die!
+
+This is the sum and substance of some conversations held while rambling
+among these scenes, going in and out of arches, climbing into nooks and
+through loopholes, picking moss and ivy, and occasionally retreating
+under the shadow of some arch, while the skies were indulging in a
+sudden burst of emotion. The poor woman who acted as our guide,
+ensconcing herself in a dry corner, stood like a literal Patience on a
+monument, waiting for us to be through; we were sorry for her, but as it
+was our first and last chance, and she would stay there, we could not
+help it.
+
+Near by the abbey is a square, modern mansion, belonging to the Earl of
+Buchan, at present untenanted. There were some black, solemn yew trees
+there, old enough to have told us a deal of history had they been
+inclined to speak; as it was, they could only drizzle.
+
+As we were walking through the yard, a bird broke out into a clear,
+sweet song.
+
+"What bird is that?" said I.
+
+"I think it is the mavis," said the guide. This brought up,--
+
+  "The mavis wild, wie mony a note,
+  Sings drowsy day to rest."
+
+And also,--
+
+  "Merry it is in wild green wood,
+  When mavis and merle are singing."
+
+A verse, by the by, dismally suggestive of contrast to this rainy day.
+
+As we came along out of the gate, walking back towards the village of
+Dryburgh, we began, to hope that the skies had fairly wept themselves
+out; at any rate the rain stopped, and the clouds wore a sulky,
+leaden-gray aspect, as if they were thinking what to do next.
+
+We saw a knot of respectable-looking laboring men at a little distance,
+conversing in a group, and now and then stealing glances at us; one of
+them at last approached and inquired if this was Mrs. Stowe, and being
+answered in the affirmative, they all said heartily, "Madam, ye're right
+welcome to Scotland." The chief speaker, then, after a little
+conversation, asked our party if we would do him the favor to step into
+his cottage near by, to take a little refreshment after our ramble; to
+which we assented with alacrity. He led the way to a neat, stone
+cottage, with a flower garden before the door, and said to a thrifty,
+rosy-cheeked woman, who met us, "Well, and what do you think, wife, if I
+have brought Mrs. Stowe and her party to take a cup of tea with us?"
+
+We were soon seated in a neat, clean kitchen, and our hostess hastened
+to put the teakettle over the grate, lamenting that she had not known of
+our coming, that she might have had a fire "ben the house," meaning by
+the phrase what we Yankees mean by "in the best room." We caught a
+glimpse of the carpet and paper of this room, when the door was opened
+to bring out a few more chairs.
+
+  "Belyve the bairns cam dropping in,"
+
+rosy-cheeked, fresh from school, with satchel and school books, to whom
+I was introduced as the mother of Topsy and Eva.
+
+"Ah," said the father, "such a time as we had, when we were reading the
+book; whiles they were greetin' and whiles in a rage."
+
+My host was quite a young-looking man, with the clear blue eye and
+glowing complexion which one so often meets here; and his wife, with her
+blooming cheeks, neat dress, and well-kept house, was evidently one of
+those fully competent
+
+  "To gar old claes look amaist as weel as new."
+
+I inquired the ages of the several children, to which the father
+answered with about as much chronological accuracy as men generally
+display in such points of family history. The gude wife, after
+correcting his figures once or twice, turned away with a somewhat
+indignant exclamation about men that didn't know their own bairns' ages,
+in which many of us, I presume, could sympathize.
+
+I must not omit to say, that a neighbor of our host had been pressed to
+come in with us; an intelligent-looking man, about fifty. In the course
+of conversation, I found that they were both masons by trade, and as the
+rain had prevented their working, they had met to spend their time in
+reading. They said they were reading a work on America; and thereat
+followed a good deal of general conversation on our country. I found
+that, like many others in this old country, they had a tie to connect
+them with the new--a son in America.
+
+One of our company, in the course of the conversation, says, "They say
+in America that the working classes of England and Scotland are not so
+well off as the slaves." The man's eye flashed. "There are many things,"
+he said, "about the working classes, which are not what they should be;
+there's room for a great deal of improvement in our condition, but," he
+added with an emphasis, "we are _no slaves!_" There was a, touch, of the
+
+  "Scots wha ha' wi' Wallace bled"
+
+about the man, as he spoke, which made the affirmation quite
+unnecessary.
+
+"But," said I, "you think the affairs of the working classes much
+improved of late years?"
+
+"O, certainly," said the other; "since the repeal of the corn laws and
+the passage of the factory bill, and this emigration to America and
+Australia, affairs have been very much altered."
+
+We asked them what they could make a day by their trade. It was much
+less, certainly, than is paid for the same labor in our country; but yet
+the air of comfort and respectability about the cottage, the
+well-clothed and well-schooled, intelligent children, spoke well for the
+result of their labors.
+
+While our conversation was carried on, the teakettle commenced singing
+most melodiously, and by a mutual system of accommodation, a neat tea
+table was spread in the midst of us, and we soon found ourselves seated,
+enjoying some delicious bread and butter, with the garniture of cheese,
+preserves, and tea. Our host before the meal craved a blessing of Him
+who had made of one blood all the families of the earth; a beautiful and
+touching allusion, I thought, between Americans and Scotchmen. Our long
+ramble in the rain had given us something of an appetite, and we did
+ample justice to the excellence of the cheer.
+
+After tea we walked on down again towards the Tweed, our host and his
+friends waiting on us to the boat. As we passed through the village of
+Dryburgh, all the inhabitants of the cottages seemed to be standing in
+their doors, bowing and smiling, and expressing their welcome in a
+gentle, kindly way, that was quite touching.
+
+As we were walking towards the Tweed, the Eildon Hill, with its three
+points, rose before us in the horizon. I thought of the words in the Lay
+of the Last Minstrel:--
+
+  "Warrior, I could say to thee,
+  The words that cleft Eildon Hill in three,
+  And bridled the Tweed with a curb of stone."
+
+I appealed to my friends if they knew any thing about the tradition; I
+thought they seemed rather reluctant to speak of it. O, there was some
+foolish story, they believed; they did not well know what it was.
+
+The picturesque age of human childhood is gone by; men and women cannot
+always be so accommodating as to believe unreasonable stories for the
+convenience of poets.
+
+At the Tweed the man with the skiff was waiting for us. In parting with
+my friend, I said, "Farewell. I hope we may meet again some time."
+
+"I am sure we shall, madam," said he; "if not here, certainly
+hereafter."
+
+After being rowed across I stopped a few moments to admire the rippling
+of the clear water over the pebbles. "I want some of these pebbles of
+the Tweed," I said, "to carry home to America." Two hearty, rosy-cheeked
+Scotch lasses on the shore soon supplied me with as many as I could
+carry.
+
+We got into our carriage, and drove up to Melrose. After a little
+negotiation with the keeper, the doors were unlocked. Just at that
+moment the sun was so gracious as to give a full look through the
+windows, and touch with streaks of gold the green, grassy floor; for the
+beautiful ruin is floored with green grass and roofed with sky: even
+poetry has not exaggerated its beauty, and could not. There is never any
+end to the charms of Gothic architecture. It is like the beauty of
+Cleopatra,--
+
+  "Age cannot wither, custom, cannot stale
+  Her infinite variety."
+
+Here is this Melrose, now, which has been berhymed, bedraggled through
+infinite guide books, and been gaped at and smoked at by dandies, and
+been called a "dear love" by pretty young ladies, and been hawked about
+as a trade article in all neighboring shops, and you know perfectly well
+that all your raptures are spoken for and expected at the door, and your
+going off in an ecstasy is a regular part of the programme; and yet,
+after all, the sad, wild, sweet beauty of the thing comes down on one
+like a cloud; even for the sake of being original you could not, in
+conscience, declare you did not admire it.
+
+We went into a minute examination with our guide, a young man, who
+seemed to have a full sense of its peculiar beauties. I must say here,
+that Walter Scott's description in the Lay of the Last Minstrel is as
+perfect in most details as if it had been written by an architect as
+well as a poet--it is a kind of glorified daguerreotype.
+
+This building was the first of the elaborate and fanciful Gothic which I
+had seen, and is said to excel in the delicacy of its carving any except
+Roslin Castle. As a specimen of the exactness of Scott's description,
+take this verse, where he speaks of the cloisters:--
+
+  "Spreading herbs and flowerets bright,
+  Glistened with the dew of night,
+  Nor herb nor floweret glistened there,
+  But were carved in the cloister arches as fair."
+
+These cloisters were covered porticoes surrounding the garden, where the
+monks walked for exercise. They are now mostly destroyed, but our guide
+showed us the remains of exquisite carvings there, in which each group
+was an imitation of some leaf or flower, such as the curly kail of
+Scotland; a leaf, by the by, as worthy of imitation as the Greek
+acanthus, the trefoil oak, and some other leaves, the names of which I
+do not remember. These Gothic artificers were lovers of nature; they
+studied at the fountain head; hence the never-dying freshness, variety,
+and originality of their conceptions.
+
+Another passage, whose architectural accuracy you feel at once, is
+this:--
+
+  "They entered now the chancel tall;
+  The darkened, roof rose high, aloof
+  On pillars lofty, light, and small:
+  The keystone that locked, each ribbed aisle
+  Was a fleur-de-lis, or a quatre-feuille;
+  The corbels were carved grotesque and grim;
+  And the pillars, with, clustered shafts so trim,
+  With, base and with capital flourished around,
+  Seemed bundles of lances which garlands had bound."
+
+The quatre-feuille here spoken of is an ornament formed by the junction
+of four leaves. The frequent recurrence of the fleur-de-lis in the
+carvings here shows traces of French hands employed in the architecture.
+In one place in the abbey there is a rude inscription, in which a French
+architect commemorates the part he has borne in constructing the
+building.
+
+These corbels are the projections from which, the arches spring, usually
+carved in some fantastic mask or face; and on these the Shakspearian
+imagination of the Gothic artists seems to have let itself loose to run
+riot: there is every variety of expression, from, the most beautiful to
+the most goblin and grotesque. One has the leer of fiendish triumph,
+with budding horns, showing too plainly his paternity; again you have
+the drooping eyelids and saintly features of some fair virgin; and then
+the gasping face of some old monk, apparently in the agonies of death,
+with his toothless gums, hollow cheeks, and sunken eyes. Other faces
+have an earthly and sensual leer; some are wrought into expressions of
+scorn and mockery, some of supplicating agony, and some of grim,
+despair.
+
+One wonders what gloomy, sarcastic, poetic, passionate mind has thus
+amused itself, recording in stone all the range of passions--saintly,
+earthly, and diabolic--on the varying human face. One fancies each
+corbel to have had its history, its archetype in nature; a thousand
+possible stories spring into one's mind. They are wrought with such a
+startling and individual definiteness, that one feels as about
+Shakspeare's characters, as if they must have had a counterpart in real
+existence. The pure, saintly nun may have been some sister, or some
+daughter, or some early love, of the artist, who in an evil hour saw the
+convent barriers rise between her and all that was loving. The fat,
+sensual face may have been a sly sarcasm on some worthy abbot, more
+eminent in flesh than spirit. The fiendish faces may have been wrought
+out of the author's own perturbed dreams.
+
+An architectural work says that one of these corbels, with an anxious
+and sinister Oriental countenance, has been made, by the guides, to
+perform duty as an authentic likeness of the wizard Michael Scott. Now,
+I must earnestly protest against stating things in that way. Why does a
+writer want to break up so laudable a poetic design in the guides? He
+would have been much better occupied in interpreting some of the
+half-defaced old inscriptions into a corroborative account. No doubt it
+_was_ Michael Scott, and looked just like him.
+
+It were a fine field for a story writer to analyze the conception and
+growth of an abbey or cathedral as it formed itself, day after day, and
+year after year, in the soul of some dreamy, impassioned workman, who
+made it the note book where he wrought out imperishably in stone all his
+observations on nature and man. I think it is this strong individualism
+of the architect in the buildings that give the never-dying charm, and
+variety to the Gothic: each Gothic building is a record of the growth,
+character, and individualities of its builder's soul; and hence no two
+can be alike.
+
+I was really disappointed to miss in the abbey the stained glass which
+gives such a lustre and glow to the poetic description. I might have
+known better; but somehow I came there fully expecting to see the
+window, where--
+
+  "Full in the midst his cross of red
+  Triumphant Michael brandished;
+  The moonbeam kissed the holy pane,
+  And threw on the pavement the bloody stain."
+
+Alas! the painted glass was all of the poet's own setting; years ago it
+was shattered by the hands of violence, and the grace of the fashion of
+it hath perished.
+
+The guide pointed to a broken fragment which commanded a view of the
+whole interior. "Sir Walter used to sit here," he said. I fancied I
+could see him sitting on the fragment, gazing around the ruin, and
+mentally restoring it to its original splendor; he brings back the
+colored light into the windows, and throws its many-hued reflections
+over the graves; he ranges the banners along around the walls, and
+rebuilds every shattered arch and aisle, till we have the picture as it
+rises on us in his book.
+
+I confess to a strong feeling of reality, when my guide took me to a
+grave where a flat, green, mossy stone, broken across the middle, is
+reputed to be the grave of Michael Scott. I felt, for the moment, verily
+persuaded that if the guide would pry up one of the stones we should see
+him there, as described:--
+
+  "His hoary beard in silver rolled,
+  He seemed some seventy winters old;
+  A palmer's amice wrapped, him round,
+  With a wrought Spanish baldric bound,
+  Like a pilgrim from beyond the sea:
+  His left hand held his book of might;
+  A silver cross was in his right;
+    The lamp was placed beside his knee:
+  High and majestic was his look,
+  At which, the fellest fiends had shook,
+  And all unruffled, was his face:
+  They trusted his soul had gotten grace."
+
+I never knew before how fervent a believer I had been in the realities
+of these things.
+
+There are two graves that I saw, which correspond to those mentioned in
+these lines:--
+
+  "And there the dying lamps did burn
+    Before thy lone and lowly urn,
+  O gallafit chief of Otterburne,
+    And thine, dark knight of Liddesdale."
+
+The Knight of Otterburne was one of the Earls Douglas, killed in a
+battle with Henry Percy, called Hotspur, in 1388. The Knight of
+Liddesdale was another Douglas, who lived in the reign of David II., and
+was called the "Flower of Chivalry." One performance of this "Flower" is
+rather characteristic of the times. It seems the king made one Ramsey
+high sheriff of Teviotdale. The Earl of Douglas chose to consider this
+as a personal affront, as he wanted the office himself. So, by way of
+exhibiting his own qualifications for administering justice, he one day
+came down on Ramsey, _vi et armis_, took him off his judgment seat,
+carried him to one of his castles, and without more words tumbled him
+and his horse into a deep dungeon, where they both starved to death.
+There's a "Flower" for you, peculiar to the good old times. Nobody could
+have doubted after this his qualifications to be high sheriff.
+
+Having looked all over the abbey from, below, I noticed a ruinous
+winding staircase; so up I went, rustling along through the ivy, which
+matted and wove itself around the stones. Soon I found myself looking
+down on the abbey from a new point of view--from a little narrow stone
+gallery, which threads the whole inside of the building. There I paced
+up and down, looking occasionally through the ivy-wreathed arches on the
+green, turfy floor below.
+
+It seems as if silence and stillness had become a real presence in these
+old places. The voice of the guide and the company beneath had a hushed
+and muffled sound; and when I rustled the ivy leaves, or, in trying to
+break off a branch, loosened some fragment of stone, the sound affected
+me with a startling distinctness. I could not but inly muse and wonder
+on the life these old monks and abbots led, shrined up here as they were
+in this lovely retirement.
+
+In ruder ages these places were the only retreat for men of a spirit too
+gentle to take force and bloodshed for their life's work; men who
+believed that pen and parchment were better than sword and steel. Here I
+suppose multitudes of them lived harmless, dreamy lives--reading old
+manuscripts, copying and illuminating new ones.
+
+It is said that this Melrose is of very ancient origin, extending back
+to the time of the Culdees, the earliest missionaries who established
+religion in Scotland, and who had a settlement in this vicinity.
+However, a royal saint, after a while, took it in hand to patronize, and
+of course the credit went to him, and from, him Scott calls it "St.
+David's lonely pile." In time a body of Cistercian monks were settled
+there.
+
+According to all accounts the abbey has raised some famous saints. We
+read of trances, illuminations, and miraculous beatifications; and of
+one abbot in particular, who exhibited the odor of sanctity so strongly
+that it is said the mere opening of his grave, at intervals, was
+sufficient to perfume the whole establishment with odors of paradise.
+Such stories apart, however, we must consider that for all the
+literature, art, and love of the beautiful, all the humanizing
+influences which hold society together, the world was for many ages
+indebted to these monastic institutions.
+
+In the reformation, this abbey was destroyed amid the general storm,
+which attacked the ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland. "Pull down
+the nest, and the rooks will fly away," was the common saying of the
+mob; and in those days a man was famous according as he had lifted up
+axes upon the carved work.
+
+Melrose was considered for many years merely a stone quarry, from which
+materials were taken for all sorts of buildings, such as constructing
+tolbooths, repairing mills and sluices; and it has been only till a
+comparatively recent period that its priceless value as an architectural
+remain has led to proper efforts for its preservation. It is now most
+carefully kept.
+
+After wandering through the inside we walked out into the old graveyard,
+to look at the outside. The yard is full of old, curious, mouldering
+gravestones; and on one of them there is an inscription sad and peculiar
+enough to have come from the heart of the architect who planned the
+abbey; it runs as follows:--
+
+  "The earth walks on the earth, glittering with gold;
+  The earth goes to the earth sooner than it wold;
+  The earth, builds on the earth, castles and towers;
+  The earth, says to the earth, All shall be ours."
+
+Here, also, we were interested in a plain marble slab, which marks the
+last resting-place of Scott's faithful Tom Purdie, his zealous factotum.
+In his diary, when he hears of the wreck of his fortunes, Scott says of
+this serving man, "Poor Tom Purdie, such news will wring your heart, and
+many a poor fellow's beside, to whom my prosperity was daily bread."
+
+One fancies again the picture described by Lockhart, the strong, lank
+frame, hard features, sunken eyes, and grizzled eyebrows, the green
+jacket, white hat, and gray trousers--the outer appointments of the
+faithful serving man. One sees Scott walking familiarly by his side,
+staying himself on Tom's shoulder, while Tom talks with glee of "_our_
+trees," and "_our_ bukes." One sees the little skirmishing, when master
+wants trees planted one way and man sees best to plant them another; and
+the magnanimity with which kindly, cross-grained Tom at last agrees, on
+reflection, to "take his honor's advice" about the management of his
+honor's own property. Here, between master and man, both freemen, is all
+that beauty of relation sometimes erroneously considered as the peculiar
+charm of slavery. Would it have made the relation any more picturesque
+and endearing had Tom been stripped of legal rights, and made liable to
+sale with the books and furniture of Abbotsford? Poor Tom is sleeping
+here very quietly, with a smooth coverlet of green grass. Over him is
+the following inscription: "Here lies the body of Thomas Purdie, wood
+forester at Abbotsford, who died 29th October, 1829, aged sixty-two
+years. Thou hast been faithful over a few things; I will make thee ruler
+over many things." Matt. xxv. 21.
+
+We walked up, and down, and about, getting the best views of the
+building. It is scarcely possible for description to give you the
+picture. The artist, in whose mind the conception of this building
+arose, was a Mozart in architecture; a plaintive and ethereal lightness,
+a fanciful quaintness, pervaded his composition. The building is not a
+large one, and it has not that air of solemn massive grandeur, that
+plain majesty, which impresses you in the cathedrals of Aberdeen and
+Glasgow. As you stand looking at the wilderness of minarets and flying
+buttresses, the multiplied shrines, and mouldings, and cornices, all
+incrusted with carving as endless in its variety as the frostwork on a
+window pane; each shrine, each pinnace, each moulding, a study by
+itself, yet each contributing, like the different strains of a harmony,
+to the general effect of the whole; it seems to you that for a thing so
+airy and spiritual to have sprung up by enchantment, and to have been
+the product of spells and fairy fingers, is no improbable account of the
+matter.
+
+Speaking of gargoyles--you are no architect, neither am I, but you may
+as well get used to this descriptive term; it means the water-spouts
+which conduct the water from the gutters at the eaves of these
+buildings, and which are carved in every grotesque and fanciful device
+that can be imagined. They are mostly goblin and fiendish faces, and
+look as if they were darting out of the church in a towering passion, or
+a fit of diabolic disgust and malice. Besides these gargoyles, there are
+in many other points of the external building representations of
+fiendish faces and figures, as if in the act of flying from the
+building, under the influence of a terrible spell: by this, as my guide
+said, was expressed the idea that the holy hymns and worship of the
+church put Satan and all his forces to rout, and made all that was evil
+flee.
+
+One remark on this building, in Billings's architectural account of it,
+interested me; and that is, that it is finished with the most
+circumstantial elegance and minuteness in those concealed portions which
+are excluded, from public view, and which can only be inspected by
+laborious climbing or groping; and he accounts for this by the idea that
+the whole carving and execution was considered as an act of solemn
+worship and adoration, in which the artist offered up his best faculties
+to the praise of the Creator.
+
+[Illustration of gargoyles]
+
+After lingering a while here, we went home to our inn or hotel. Now,
+these hotels in the small towns of England, if this is any specimen,
+are delightful affairs for travellers, they are so comfortable and
+home-like. Our snug little parlor was radiant with the light of the coal
+grate; our table stood before it, with its bright silver, white cloth,
+and delicate china cups; and then such a dish of mutton chops! My dear,
+we are all mortal, and emotions of the beautiful and sublime tend
+especially to make one hungry. We, therefore, comforted ourselves over
+the instability of earthly affairs, and the transitory nature of all
+human grandeur, by consolatory remarks on the _present_ whiteness of the
+bread, the sweetness of the butter; and as to the chops, all declared,
+with one voice, that such mutton was a thing unknown in America. I moved
+an emendation, except on the sea coast of Maine. We resolved to cherish
+the memory of our little hostess in our heart of hearts, and as we
+gathered round the cheery grate, drying our cold feet, we voted that
+poetry was a humbug, and damp, old, musty cathedrals a bore. Such are
+the inconsistencies of human nature!
+
+"Nevertheless," said I to S----, after dinner, "I am going back again
+to-night, to see that abbey by moonlight. I intend to walk the whole
+figure while I am about it."
+
+Just on the verge of twilight I stepped out, to see what the town
+afforded in the way of relics. To say the truth, my eye had been caught
+by some cunning little tubs and pails in a window, which I thought might
+be valued in the home department. I went into a shop, where an auld wife
+soon appeared, who, in reply to my inquiries, told me, that the said
+little tubs and pails were made of plum tree wood from Dryburgh Abbey,
+and, of course, partook of the sanctity of relics. She and her husband
+seemed to be driving a thriving trade in the article, and either plum
+trees must be very abundant at Dryburgh, or what there are must be
+gifted with that power of self-multiplication which inheres in the wood
+of the true Cross. I bought them in blind faith, however, suppressing
+all rationalistic doubts, as a good relic hunter should.
+
+I went up into a little room where an elderly woman professed to have
+quite a collection of the Melrose relics. Some years ago extensive
+restorations and repairs were made in the old abbey, in which Walter
+Scott took a deep interest. At that time, when the scaffolding was up
+for repairing the building, as I understood, Scott had the plaster casts
+made of different parts, which he afterwards incorporated into his own
+dwelling at Abbotsford. I said to the good woman that I had understood
+by Washington Irving's account, that Scott appropriated _bona fide_
+fragments of the building, and alluded to the account which he gives of
+the little red sandstone lion from Melrose. She repelled the idea with
+great energy, and said she had often heard Sir Walter say, that he would
+not carry off a bit of the building as big as his thumb. She showed me
+several plaster casts that she had in her possession, which were taken
+at this time. There were several corbels there; one was the head of an
+old monk, and looked as if it might have been a mask taken of his face
+the moment after death; the eyes were hollow and sunken, the cheeks
+fallen in, the mouth lying helplessly open, showing one or two
+melancholy old stumps of teeth. I wondered over this, whether it really
+was the fac-simile of some poor old Father Ambrose, or Father Francis,
+whose disconsolate look, after his death agony, had so struck the gloomy
+fancy of the artist as to lead him to immortalize him in a corbel, for a
+lasting admonition to his fat worldly brethren; for if we may trust the
+old song, these monks of Melrose had rather a suspicious reputation in
+the matter of worldly conformity. The impudent ballad says,--
+
+  "O, the monks of Melrose, they made good, kail
+    On Fridays, when they fasted;
+  They never wanted beef or ale
+    As long as their neighbors' lasted."
+
+Naughty, roistering fellows! I thought I could perceive how this poor
+Father Francis had worn his life out exhorting them to repentance, and
+given up the ghost at last in despair, and so been made at once into a
+saint and a corbel.
+
+There were fragments of tracery, of mouldings and cornices, and
+grotesque bits of architecture there, which I would have given a good
+deal to be the possessor of. Stepping into a little cottage hard by to
+speak to the guide about unlocking the gates, when we went out on our
+moonlight excursion at midnight, I caught a glimpse, in an inner
+apartment, of a splendid, large, black dog. I gave one exclamation and
+jump, and was into the room after him.
+
+"Ah," said the old man, "that was just like Sir Walter; he always had an
+eye for a dog."
+
+It gave me a kind of pain to think of him and his dogs, all lying in the
+dust together; and yet it was pleasant to hear this little remark of
+him, as if it were made by those who had often seen, and were fond of
+thinking of him. The dog's name was Coal, and he was black enough, and
+remarkable enough, to make a figure in a story--a genuine Melrose Abbey
+dog. I should not wonder if he were a descendant, in a remote degree, of
+the "mauthe doog," that supernatural beast, which Scott commemorates in
+his notes. The least touch in the world of such blood in his veins would
+be, of course, an appropriate circumstance in a dog belonging to an old
+ruined abbey.
+
+Well, I got home, and narrated my adventures to my friends, and showed
+them my reliquary purchases, and declared my strengthening intention to
+make my ghostly visit by moonlight, if there was any moon to be had that
+night, which was a doubtful possibility.
+
+In the course of the evening came in Mr. ----, who had volunteered his
+services as guide and attendant during the interesting operation.
+
+"When does the moon rise?" said one.
+
+"O, a little after eleven o'clock, I believe," said Mr. ----.
+
+Some of the party gaped portentously.
+
+"You know," said I, "Scott says we must see it by moonlight; it is one
+of the proprieties of the place, as I understand."
+
+"How exquisite that description is, of the effect of moonlight!" says
+another.
+
+"I think it probable," says Mr. ----, dryly, "that Scott never saw it by
+moonlight himself. He was a man of very regular habits, and seldom went
+out evenings."
+
+The blank amazement with which this communication was received set S----
+into an inextinguishable fit of laughter.
+
+"But do you really believe he never saw it?" said I, rather crestfallen.
+
+"Well," said the gentleman, "I have heard him charged with never having
+seen it, and he never denied it."
+
+Knowing that Scott really was as practical a man as Dr. Franklin, and as
+little disposed to poetic extravagances, and an exceedingly sensible,
+family kind of person, I thought very probably this might be true,
+unless he had seen it some time in his early youth. Most likely good
+Mrs. Scott never would have let him commit the impropriety that we were
+about to, and run the risk of catching the rheumatism by going out to
+see how an old abbey looked at twelve o'clock at night.
+
+We waited for the moon to rise, and of course it did not rise; nothing
+ever does when it is waited for. We went to one window, and went to
+another; half past eleven came, and no moon. "Let us give it up," said
+I, feeling rather foolish. However, we agreed to wait another quarter of
+an hour, and finally Mr. ---- announced that the moon _was_ risen; the
+only reason we did not see it was, because it was behind the Eildon
+Hills. So we voted to consider her risen at any rate, and started out in
+the dark, threading the narrow streets of the village with the
+comforting reflection that we were doing what Sir Walter would think
+rather a silly thing. When we got out before the abbey there was enough
+light behind the Eildon Hills to throw their three shadowy cones out
+distinctly to view, and to touch with a gloaming, uncertain ray the
+ivy-clad walls. As we stood before the abbey, the guide fumbling with
+his keys, and finally heard the old lock clash as the door slowly opened
+to admit us, I felt a little shiver of the ghostly come over me, just
+enough to make it agreeable.
+
+In the daytime we had criticized Walter Scott's moonlight description in
+the lines which say,--
+
+  "The distant Tweed is heard, to rave,
+  And the owlet to hoot o'er the dead man's grave."
+
+"We hear nothing of the Tweed, at any rate," said we; "that must be a
+poetic license." But now at midnight, as we walked silently through the
+mouldering aisles, the brawl of the Tweed was so distinctly heard that
+it seemed as if it was close by the old, lonely pile; nor can any term
+describe the sound more exactly than the word "rave," which the poet
+has chosen. It was the precise accuracy of this little item of
+description which made me feel as if Scott must have been here in the
+night. I walked up into the old chancel, and sat down where William of
+Deloraine and the monk sat, on the Scottish monarch's tomb, and thought
+over the words
+
+  "Strange sounds along the chancel passed,
+  And banners wave without a blast;
+  Still spake the monk when the bell tolled one."
+
+And while we were there the bell tolled twelve.
+
+And then we went to Michael Scott's grave, and we looked through the
+east oriel, with its
+
+  "Slender shafts of shapely stone,
+  By foliage tracery combined."
+
+The fanciful outlines showed all the more distinctly for the entire
+darkness within, and the gloaming moonlight without. The tall arches
+seemed higher in their dimness, and vaster than they did in the daytime.
+"Hark!" said I; "what's that?" as we heard a rustling and flutter of
+wings in the ivy branches over our heads. Only a couple of rooks, whose
+antiquarian slumbers were disturbed by the unwonted noise there at
+midnight, and who rose and flew away, rattling down some fragments of
+the ruin as they went. It was somewhat odd, but I could not help
+fancying, what if these strange, goblin rooks were the spirits of old
+monks coming back to nestle and brood among their ancient cloisters!
+Rooks are a ghostly sort of bird. I think they were made on purpose to
+live in old yew trees and ivy, as much as yew trees and ivy were to grow
+round old churches and abbeys. If we once could get inside of a rook's
+skull, to find out what he is thinking of, I'll warrant that we should
+know a great deal more about these old buildings than we do now. I
+should not wonder if there were long traditionary histories handed down
+from one generation of rooks to another, and that these are what they
+are talking about when we think they are only chattering. I imagine I
+see the whole black fraternity the next day, sitting, one on a gargoyle,
+one on a buttress, another on a shrine, gossiping over the event of our
+nightly visit.
+
+We walked up and down the long aisles, and groped out into the
+cloisters; and then I thought, to get the full ghostliness of the
+thing, we would go up the old, ruined staircase into the long galleries,
+that
+
+  "Midway thread the abbey wall."
+
+We got about half way up, when there came into our faces one of those
+sudden, passionate puffs of mist and rain which Scotch clouds seem to
+have the faculty of getting up at a minute's notice. Whish! came the
+wind in our faces, like the rustling of a whole army of spirits down the
+staircase; whereat we all tumbled back promiscuously on to each other,
+and concluded we would not go up. In fact we had done the thing, and so
+we went home; and I dreamed of arches, and corbels, and gargoyles all
+night. And so, farewell to Melrose Abbey.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+
+EDINBURGH, April.
+
+My DEAR SISTER:--
+
+Mr. S. and C---- returned from their trip to Glasgow much delighted with
+the prospects indicated by the results of the temperance meetings they
+attended there.
+
+They were present at the meeting of the Scottish Temperance League, in
+an audience of about four thousand people. The reports were encouraging,
+and the feeling enthusiastic. One hundred and eighty ministers are on
+the list of the League, forming a nucleus of able, talented, and
+determined operators. It is the intention to make a movement for a law
+which shall secure to Scotland some of the benefits of the Maine law.
+
+It appears to me that on the questions of temperance and antislavery,
+the religious communities of the two countries are in a situation
+mutually to benefit each other. Our church and ministry have been
+through a long struggle and warfare on this temperance question, in
+which a very valuable experience has been, elaborated. The religious
+people of Great Britain, on the contrary, have led on to a successful
+result a great antislavery experiment, wherein their experience and
+success can be equally beneficial and encouraging to us.
+
+The day after we returned from Melrose we spent in resting and riding
+about, as we had two engagements in the evening--one at a party at the
+house of Mr. Douglas, of Cavers, and the other at a public temperance
+_soiree_. Mr. Douglas is the author of several works which have excited
+attention; but perhaps you will remember him best by his treatise on the
+Advancement of Society in Religion and Knowledge. He is what is called
+here a "laird," a man of good family, a large landed proprietor, a
+zealous reformer, and a very devout man.
+
+We went early to spend a short time with the family. I was a little
+surprised, as I entered the hall, to find myself in the midst of a large
+circle of well-dressed men and women, who stood apparently waiting to
+receive us, and who bowed, courtesied, and smiled as we came in. Mrs. D.
+apologized to me afterwards, saying that these were the servants of the
+family, that they were exceedingly anxious to see me, and so she had
+allowed them all to come into the hall. They were so respectable in
+their appearance, and so neatly dressed, that I might almost have
+mistaken them for visitors.
+
+We had a very pleasant hour or two with the family, which I enjoyed
+exceedingly. Mr. and Mrs. Douglas were full of the most considerate
+kindness, and some of the daughters had intimate acquaintances in
+America. I enjoy these little glimpses into family circles more than any
+thing else; there is no warmth like fireside warmth.
+
+In the evening the rooms were filled. I should think all the clergymen
+of Edinburgh must have been there, for I was introduced to ministers
+without number. The Scotch have a good many little ways that are like
+ours; they call their clergy ministers, as we do. There were many
+persons from ancient families, distinguished in Scottish history both
+for rank and piety; among others, Lady Carstairs, Sir Henry Moncrief and
+lady. There was also the Countess of Gainsborough, one of the ladies of
+the queen's household, a very beautiful woman with charming manners,
+reminding one of the line of Pope--
+
+  "Graceful ease, and sweetness void of pride."
+
+I was introduced to Dr. John Brown, who is reckoned one of the best
+exegetial scholars in Europe. He is small of stature, sprightly, and
+pleasant in manners, but with a high bald forehead and snow-white hair.
+
+There were also many members of the faculty of the university. I talked
+a little with Dr. Guthrie, whom I described in a former letter. I told
+him that one thing which had been an agreeable disappointment to me was,
+the apparent cordiality between the members of the Free and the National
+church. He seemed to think that the wounds of the old conflict were, to
+a great extent, healed. He spoke in high terms of the Duchess of
+Sutherland, her affability, kindness, and considerateness to the poor. I
+forget from whom I received the anecdote, but somebody told me this of
+her--that, one of her servants having lost a relative, she had left a
+party where she was engaged, and gone in the plainest attire and
+quietest way to attend the funeral. It was remarked upon as showing her
+considerateness for the feelings of those in inferior positions.
+
+About nine o'clock we left to go to the temperance _soiree_. It was in
+the same place, and conducted in the same way, with the others which I
+have described. The lord provost presided, and one or two of the working
+men who spoke in the former _soiree_ made speeches, and very good ones
+too. The meeting was greatly enlivened by the presence and speech of the
+jovial Lord Conynghame, who amused us all by the gallant manner in which
+he expressed the warmth of Scottish welcome towards "our American
+guests." If it had been in the old times of Scottish hospitality, he
+said, he should have proposed a _bumper_ three times three; but as that
+could not be done in a temperance meeting, he proposed three cheers, in
+which he led off with a hearty good will.
+
+All that the Scotch people need now for the prosperity of their country
+is the temperance reformation; and undoubtedly they will have it. They
+have good sense and strength of mind enough to work out whatever they
+choose.
+
+We went home tired enough.
+
+The next day we had a few calls to make, and an invitation from Lady
+Drummond to visit "classic Hawthornden." Accordingly, in the forenoon,
+Mr. S. and I called first on Lord and Lady Gainsborough; though, she is
+one of the queen's household, she is staying here at Edinburgh, and the
+queen at Osborne. I infer therefore that the appointment includes no
+very onerous duties. The Earl of Gainsborough is the eldest brother of
+Rev. Baptist W. Noel.
+
+Lady Gainsborough is the daughter of the Earl of Roden, who is an Irish
+lord of the very strictest Calvinistic persuasion: He is a devout man,
+and for many years, we were told, maintained a Calvinistic church of the
+English establishment in Paris. While Mr. S. talked with Lord
+Gainsborough, I talked with his lady, and Lady Roden, who was present.
+Lady Gainsborough inquired about our schools for the poor, and how they
+were conducted. I reflected a moment, and then answered that we had no
+schools for the poor as such, but the common school was open alike to
+all classes.[K]
+
+In England and Scotland, in all classes, from the queen downward, no
+movements are so popular as those for the education and elevation of the
+poor; one is seldom in company without hearing the conversation turn
+upon them.
+
+The conversation generally turned upon the condition of servants in
+America. I said that one of the principal difficulties in American
+housekeeping proceeded from the fact that there were so many other
+openings of profit that very few were found willing to assume the
+position of the servant, except as a temporary expedient; in fact, that
+the whole idea of service was radically different, it being a mere
+temporary contract to render certain services, not differing essentially
+from the contract of the mechanic or tradesman. The ladies said they
+thought there could be no family feeling among servants if that was the
+case; and I replied that, generally speaking, there was none; that old
+and attached family servants in the free states were rare exceptions.
+
+This, I know, must look, to persons in old countries, like a hard and
+discouraging feature of democracy. I regard it, however, as only a
+temporary difficulty. Many institutions among us are in a transition
+state. Gradually the whole subject of the relations of labor and the
+industrial callings will assume a new form in America, and though we
+shall never be able to command the kind of service secured in
+aristocratic countries, yet we shall have that which will be as faithful
+and efficient. If domestic service can be made as pleasant, profitable,
+and respectable as any of the industrial callings, it will soon become
+as permanent.
+
+Our next visit was to Sir William Hamilton and lady. Sir William is the
+able successor of Dugald Stewart and Dr. Brown in the chair of
+intellectual philosophy. His writings have had a wide circulation in
+America. He is a man of noble presence, though we were sorry to see that
+he was suffering from ill health. It seems to me that Scotland bears
+that relation to England, with regard to metaphysical inquiry, that New
+England does to the rest of the United States. If one counts over the
+names of distinguished metaphysicians, the Scotch, as compared with the
+English, number three to one--Reid, Stewart, Brown, all Scotchmen.
+
+Sir William still writes and lectures. He and Mr. S. were soon
+discoursing on German, English, Scotch, and American metaphysics, while
+I was talking with Lady Hamilton and her daughters. After we came away
+Mr. S. said, that no man living had so thoroughly understood and
+analyzed the German philosophy. He said that Sir William spoke of a call
+which he had received from Professor Park, of Andover, and expressed
+himself in high terms of his metaphysical powers.
+
+After that we went to call on George Combe, the physiologist. We found
+him and Mrs. Combe in a pleasant, sunny parlor, where, among other
+objects of artistic interest, we saw a very fine engraving of Mrs.
+Siddons. I was not aware until after leaving that Mrs. Combe is her
+daughter. Mr. Combe, though somewhat advanced, seems full of life and
+animation, and conversed with a great deal of warmth and interest on
+America, where he made a tour some years since. Like other men in Europe
+who sympathize in our progress, he was sanguine in the hope that the
+downfall of slavery must come at no distant date.
+
+After a pleasant chat here we came home; and after an interval of rest
+the carriage was at the door for Hawthornden. It is about seven miles
+out from Edinburgh. It is a most romantic spot, on the banks of the
+River Esk, now the seat of Mr. James Walker Drummond. Scott has sung in
+the ballad of the Gray Brother,--
+
+  Sweet are the paths, O, passing sweet,
+    By Esk's fair streams that run,
+  O'er airy steep, through copse-woods deep,
+    Impervious to the sun.
+
+  Who knows not Melville's beechy grove,
+    And Roslin's rocky glen,
+  Dalkeith, which all the virtues love,
+    And classic Hawthornden?
+
+"Melville's beechy grove" is an allusion to the grounds of Lord
+Melville, through which we drove on our way. The beech trees here are
+magnificent; fully equal to any trees of the sort which I have seen in
+our American forests, and they were in full leaf. They do not grow so
+high, but have more breadth and a wider sweep of branches; on the whole
+they are well worthy of a place in song.
+
+I know in my childhood I often used to wish that I could live in a
+ruined castle; and this Hawthornden would be the very beau ideal of one
+as a romantic dwelling-place. It is an old castellated house, perched on
+the airy verge of a precipice, directly over the beautiful River Esk,
+looking down one of the most romantic glens in Scotland. Part of it is
+in ruins, and, hung with wreaths of ivy, it seems to stand just to look
+picturesque. The house itself, with its quaint, high gables, and gray,
+antique walls, appears old enough to take you back to the times of
+William Wallace. It is situated within an hour's walk of Roslin Castle
+and Chapel, one of the most beautiful and poetic architectural remains
+in Scotland.
+
+Our drive to the place was charming. It was a showery day; but every few
+moments the sun blinked out, smiling through the falling rain, and
+making the wet leaves glitter, and the raindrops wink at each other in
+the most sociable manner possible. Arrived at the house, our friend,
+Miss S----, took us into a beautiful parlor overhanging the glen, each
+window of which commanded a picture better than was ever made on
+canvas.
+
+We had a little chat with Lady Drummond, and then we went down to
+examine the caverns,--for there are caverns under the house, with long
+galleries and passages running from them through the rocks, some way
+down the river. Several apartments are hollowed out here in the rock on
+which the house is founded, which they told us belonged to Bruce; the
+tradition being, that he was hidden here for some months. There was his
+bed room, dining room, sitting room, and a very curious apartment where
+the walls were all honeycombed into little partitions, which they called
+his library, these little partitions being his book shelves. There are
+small loophole windows in these apartments, where you can look up and
+down the glen, and enjoy a magnificent prospect. For my part, I thought
+if I were Bruce, sitting there with a book in my lap, listening to the
+gentle brawl of the Esk, looking up and down the glen, watching the
+shaking raindrops on the oaks, the birches and beeches, I should have
+thought that was better than fighting, and that my pleasant little cave
+was as good an arbor on the Hill Difficulty as ever mortal man enjoyed.
+
+There is a ponderous old two-handed sword kept here, said to have
+belonged to Sir William Wallace. It is considerably shorter than it was
+originally, but, resting on its point, it reached to the chin of a good
+six foot gentleman of our party. The handle is made of the horn of a
+sea-horse, (if you know what that is,) and has a heavy iron ball at the
+end. It must altogether have weighed some ten or twelve pounds. Think of
+a man hewing away _on men_ with this!
+
+There is a well in this cavern, down which we were directed to look and
+observe a hole in the side; this we were told was the entrance to
+another set of caverns and chambers under those in which we were, and
+to passages which extended down and opened out into the valley. In the
+olden days the approach to these caverns was not through the house, but
+through the side of a deep well sunk in the court yard, which
+communicates through a subterranean passage with this well. Those
+seeking entrance were let down by a windlass into the well in the court
+yard, and drawn up by a windlass into this cavern. There was no such
+accommodation at present, but we were told some enterprising tourists
+had explored the lower caverns. Pleasant kind of times those old days
+must have been, when houses had to be built like a rabbit burrow, with
+all these accommodations for concealment and escape.
+
+After exploring the caverns we came up into the parlors again, and Miss
+S. showed me a Scottish album, in which were all sorts of sketches,
+memorials, autographs, and other such matters. What interested me more,
+she was making a collection of Scottish ballads, words and tunes. I told
+her that I had noticed, since I had been in Scotland, that the young
+ladies seemed to take very little interest in the national Scotch airs,
+and were all devoted to Italian; moreover, that the Scotch ballads and
+memories, which so interested me, seemed to have very little interest
+for people generally in Scotland. Miss S. was warm enough in her zeal to
+make up a considerable account, and so we got on well together.
+
+While we were sitting, chatting, two young ladies came in, who had
+walked up the glen despite the showery day. They were protected by good,
+substantial outer garments, of a kind of shag or plush, and so did not
+fear the rain. I wanted to walk down to Roslin Castle, but the party
+told me there would not be time this afternoon, as we should have to
+return at a certain hour. I should not have been reconciled to this, had
+not another excursion been proposed for the purpose of exploring
+Roslin.
+
+However, I determined to go a little way down the glen, and get a
+distant view of it, and my fair friends, the young ladies, offered to
+accompany me; so off we started down the winding paths, which were cut
+among the banks overhanging the Esk. The ground was starred over with
+patches of pale-yellow primroses, and for the first time I saw the
+heather, spreading over rocks and matting itself around the roots of
+trees. My companions, to whom it was the commonest thing in the world,
+could hardly appreciate the delight which I felt in looking at it; it
+was not in flower; I believe it does not blossom till some time in July
+or August. We have often seen it in greenhouses, and it is so hardy that
+it is singular it will not grow wild in America.
+
+We walked, ran, and scrambled to an eminence which commanded a view of
+Roslin Chapel, the only view, I fear, which will ever gladden my eyes,
+for the promised expedition to it dissolved itself into mist. When on
+the hill top, so that I could see the chapel at a distance, I stood
+thinking over the ballad of Harold, in the Lay of the Last Minstrel, and
+the fate of the lovely Rosabel, and saying over to myself the last
+verses of the ballad:--
+
+  "O'er Roslin, all that dreary night,
+    A wondrous blaze was seen to gleam;
+  'Twas broader than the watchfire's light,
+    And redder than the bright moonbeam.
+
+  It glared on Roslin's castled rock,
+    It ruddied, all the copsewood glen;
+  'Twas seen from Deyden's groves of oak,
+    And seen from cavern'd Hawthornden.
+
+  Seemed all on fire that chapel proud,
+    Where Roslin's chiefs uncoffined lie,
+  Each baron, for a sable shroud,
+    Sheathed in his iron panoply.
+
+  Seemed all on fire within, around,
+    Deep sacristy and altar's pale;
+  Shone every pillar foliage-bound,
+    And glimmered, all the dead men's mail.
+
+  Blazed battlement and pinnet high,
+    Blazed every rose-carved buttress fair,
+  So will they blaze, when fate is nigh
+    The lordly line of high St. Clair.
+
+  There are twenty of Roslin's barons bold
+    Lie buried, within that proud chapelle;
+  Each one the holy vault doth hold;
+    But the sea holds lovely Rosabelle!
+
+  And each St. Clair was buried there,
+    With candle, with book, and with knell;
+  But the sea caves rung, and the wild winds sung,
+    The dirge of lovely Rosabelle."
+
+There are many allusions in this which show Scott's minute habits of
+observation; for instance, these two lines:--
+
+  "Blazed battlement and pinnet high,
+    Blazed every rose-carved buttress fair."
+
+Every buttress, battlement, and projection of the exterior is incrusted
+with the most elaborate floral and leafy carving, among which the rose
+is often repeated, from its suggesting, by similarity of sound, Roslin.
+
+Again, this line--
+
+  "Shone every pillar foliage-bound"--
+
+suggests to the mind the profusion and elaborateness of the leafy
+decorations in the inside. Among these, one pillar, garlanded with
+spiral wreaths of carved foliage, is called the "Apprentice's Pillar;"
+the tradition being, that while the master was gone to Rome to get some
+further hints on executing the plan, a precocious young mason, whom he
+left at home, completed it in his absence. The master builder summarily
+knocked him on the head, as a warning to all progressive young men not
+to grow wiser than their teachers. Tradition points out the heads of the
+master and workmen among the corbels. So you see, whereas in old Greek
+times people used to point out their celebrities among the stars, and
+gave a defunct hero a place in the constellations, in the middle ages he
+only got a place among the corbels.
+
+I am increasingly sorry that I was beguiled out of my personal
+examination of this chapel, since I have seen the plates of it in my
+Baronial Sketches. It is the rival of Melrose, but more elaborate; in
+fact, it is a perfect cataract of architectural vivacity and ingenuity,
+as defiant of any rules of criticism and art as the leaf-embowered
+arcades and arches of our American forest cathedrals. From the
+comparison of the plates of the engravings, I should judge there was
+less delicacy of taste, and more exuberance of invention, than in
+Melrose. One old prosaic commentator on it says that it is quite
+remarkable that there are no two cuts in it precisely alike; each
+buttress, window, and pillar is unique, though with such a general
+resemblance to each other as to deceive the eye.
+
+It was built in 1446, by William St. Clair, who was Prince of Orkney,
+Duke of Oldenburgh, Lord of Roslin, Earl of Caithness and Strathearn,
+and so on _ad infinitum_. He was called the "Seemly St. Clair," from his
+noble deportment and elegant manners; resided in royal splendor at this
+Castle of Roslin, and kept a court there as Prince of Orkney. His table
+was served with vessels of gold and silver, and he had one lord for his
+master of household, one for his cup bearer, and one for his carver. His
+princess, Elizabeth Douglas, was served by seventy-five gentlewomen,
+fifty-three of whom were daughters of noblemen, and they were attended
+in all their excursions by a retinue of two hundred gentlemen.
+
+These very woods and streams, which now hear nothing but the murmurs of
+the Esk, were all alive with the bustle of a court in those days.
+
+The castle was now distinctly visible; it stands on an insulated rock,
+two hundred and twenty yards from the chapel. It has under it a set of
+excavations and caverns almost equally curious with those of
+Hawthornden; there are still some tolerably preserved rooms in it, and
+Mrs. W. informed me that they had once rented these rooms for a summer
+residence. What a delightful idea! The barons of Roslin were all buried
+under this Chapel, in their armor, as Scott describes in the poem. And
+as this family were altogether more than common folks, it is perfectly
+credible that on the death of one of them a miraculous light should
+illuminate the castle, chapel, and whole neighborhood.
+
+It appears, by certain ancient documents, that this high and mighty
+house of St. Clair were in a particular manner patrons of the masonic
+craft. It is known that the trade of masonry was then in the hands of a
+secret and mysterious order, from whom probably our modern masons have
+descended.
+
+The St. Clair family, it appears, were at the head of this order, with
+power to appoint officers and places of meeting, to punish
+transgressors, and otherwise to have the superintendence of all their
+affairs. This fact may account for such a perfect Geyser of
+architectural ingenuity as has been poured out upon their family chapel,
+which was designed for a _chef-d'oeuvre_, a concentration of the best
+that could be done to the honor of their patron's family. The documents
+which authenticate this statement are described in Billings's Baronial
+Antiquities. So much for "the lordly line of high St. Clair."
+
+When we came back to the house, and after taking coffee in the drawing
+room, Miss S. took me over the interior, a most delightful place, full
+of all sorts of out-of-the-way snuggeries, and comfortable corners, and
+poetic irregularities. There she showed me a picture of one of the early
+ancestors of the family, the poet Drummond, hanging in a room, which
+tradition has assigned to him. It represents a man with a dark,
+Spanish-looking face, with the broad Elizabethan ruff, earnest,
+melancholy eyes, and an air half cavalier, half poet, bringing to mind
+the chivalrous, graceful, fastidious bard, accomplished scholar, and
+courtier of his time, the devout believer in the divine right of kings,
+and of the immunities and privileges of the upper class generally. This
+Drummond, it seems, was early engaged to a fair young lady, whose death
+rendered his beautiful retreat of Hawthornden insupportable to him, and
+of course, like other persons of romance, he sought refuge in foreign
+travel, went abroad, and remained eight years. Afterwards he came back,
+married, and lived here for some time.
+
+Among other traditions of the place, it is said that Ben Jonson once
+walked all the way from London to visit the poet in this retreat; and a
+tree is still shown on the grounds under which they are said to have
+met. It seems that Ben's habits were rather too noisy and convivial to
+meet altogether the taste of his fastidious and aristocratic host; and
+so he had his own thoughts of him, which, being written down in a diary,
+were published by some indiscreet executor, after they were both dead.
+
+We were shown an old, original edition of the poems. I must confess I
+never read them. Since I have seen the material the poet and novelist
+has on this ground, all I wonder at is, that there have not been a
+thousand poets to one. I should have thought they would have been as
+plenty as the mavis and merle, and sprouting out every where, like the
+primroses and heather bells.
+
+Our American literature is unfortunate in this respect--that our nation
+never had any childhood, our day never had any dawn; so we have very
+little traditionary lore to work over.
+
+We came home about five o'clock, and had some company in the evening.
+Some time to-day I had a little chat with Mrs. W. on the Quakers. She is
+a cultivated and thoughtful woman, and seemed to take quite impartial
+views, and did not consider her own sect as by any means the only form
+of Christianity, but maintained--what every sensible person must grant,
+I think--that it has had an important mission in society, even in its
+peculiarities. I inferred from her conversation that the system of plain
+dress, maintained with the nicety which they always use, is by no means
+a saving in a pecuniary point of view. She stated that one young friend,
+who had been brought up in this persuasion, gave it as her reason for
+not adopting its peculiar dress, that she could not afford it; that is
+to say, that for a given sum of money she could make a more creditable
+appearance were she allowed the range of form, shape, and trimming,
+which the ordinary style of dressing permits.
+
+I think almost any lady, who knows the magical value of bits of
+trimming, and bows of ribbon judiciously adjusted in critical locations,
+of inserting, edging, and embroidery, considered as economic arts, must
+acknowledge that there is some force in the young lady's opinion.
+Nevertheless the Doric simplicity of a Quaker lady's dress, who is in
+circumstances to choose her material, has a peculiar charm. As at
+present advised, the Quaker ladies whom I have seen very judiciously
+adhere to the spirit of plain attire, without troubling themselves to
+maintain the exact letter. For instance, a plain straw cottage, with its
+white satin ribbon, is sometimes allowed to take the place of the close
+silk bonnet of Fox's day.
+
+For my part, while I reverence the pious and unworldly spirit which
+dictated the peculiar forms of the Quaker sect, I look for a higher
+development of religion still, when all the beautiful artistic faculties
+of the soul being wholly sanctified and offered up to God, we shall no
+longer shun beauty in any of its forms, either in dress or household
+adornment, as a temptation, but rather offer it up as a sacrifice to Him
+who has set us the example, by making every thing beautiful in its
+season.
+
+As to art and letters, I find many of my Quaker friends sympathizing in
+those judicious views which were taken by the society of Friends in
+Philadelphia, when Benjamin West developed a talent for painting,
+regarding such talent as an indication of the will of Him who had
+bestowed it. So I find many of them taking pleasure in the poetry of
+Scott, Longfellow, and Whittier, as developments of his wisdom who gives
+to the human soul its different faculties and inspirations.
+
+More delightful society than a cultivated Quaker family cannot be found:
+the truthfulness, genuineness, and simplicity of character, albeit not
+wanting, at proper times, a shrewd dash of worldly wisdom, are very
+refreshing.
+
+Mrs. W. and I went to the studio of Hervey, the Scotch artist. Both he
+and his wife received us with great kindness. I saw there his
+Covenanters celebrating the Lord's Supper--a picture which I could not
+look at critically on account of the tears which kept blinding my eyes.
+It represents a bleak hollow of a mountain side, where a few trembling
+old men and women, a few young girls and children, with one or two young
+men, are grouped together, in that moment of hushed prayerful repose
+which precedes the breaking of the sacramental bread. There is something
+touching always about that worn, weary look of rest and comfort with
+which a sick child lies down on a mother's bosom, and like this is the
+expression with which these hunted fugitives nestle themselves beneath
+the shadow of their Redeemer; mothers who had seen their sons "tortured,
+not accepting deliverance"--wives who had seen the blood of their
+husbands poured out on their doorstone--children with no father but
+God--and bereaved old men, from whom, every child had been rent--all
+gathering for comfort round the cross of a suffering Lord. In such hours
+they found strength to suffer, and to say to every allurement of worldly
+sense and pleasure as the drowning Margaret Wilson said to the tempters
+in her hour of martyrdom, "I am _Christ's child_--let me go."
+
+Another most touching picture of Hervey's commemorates a later scene of
+Scottish devotion and martyr endurance scarcely below that of the days
+of the Covenant. It is called Leaving the Manse.
+
+We in America all felt to our heart's core a sympathy with that high
+endurance which led so many Scottish ministers to forsake their
+churches, their salaries, the happy homes where their children were born
+and their days passed, rather than violate a principle.
+
+This picture is a monument of this struggle. There rises the manse
+overgrown with its flowering vines, the image of a lovely, peaceful
+home. The minister's wife, a pale, lovely creature, is just locking the
+door, out of which her husband and family have passed--leaving it
+forever. The husband and father is supporting on his arm an aged, feeble
+mother, and the weeping children are gathering sorrowfully round him,
+each bearing away some memorial of their home; one has the bird cage.
+But the unequalled look of high, unshaken patience, of heroic faith, and
+love which seems to spread its light over every face, is what I cannot
+paint. The painter told me that the faces were _portraits_, and the
+scene by no means imaginary.
+
+But did not these sacrifices bring with them, even in their bitterness,
+a joy the world knoweth not? Yes, they did. I know it full well, not
+vainly did Christ say, There is no man that hath left houses or lands
+for my sake and the gospel's but he shall receive manifold more _in this
+life_.
+
+Mr. Hervey kindly gave me the engraving of his Covenanters' Sacrament,
+which I shall keep as a memento of him and of Scotland.
+
+His style of painting is forcible and individual. He showed us the
+studies that he has taken with his palette and brushes out on the
+mountains and moors of Scotland, painting moss, and stone, and brook,
+just as it is. This is the way to be a national painter.
+
+One pleasant evening, not long before we left Edinburgh, C., S., and I
+walked out for a quiet stroll. We went through the Grass Market, where
+so many defenders of the Covenant have suffered, and turned into the
+churchyard of the Gray Friars; a gray, old Gothic building, with
+multitudes of graves around it. Here we saw the tombs of Allan Ramsay
+and many other distinguished characters. The grim, uncouth sculpture on
+the old graves, and the quaint epitaphs, interested me much; but I was
+most moved by coming quite unexpectedly on an ivy-grown slab, in the
+wall, commemorating the martyrs of the Covenant. The inscription struck
+me so much, that I got C---- to copy it in his memorandum book.
+
+  "Halt, passenger! take heed what you do see.
+  Here lies interred the dust of those who stood
+  'Gainst perjury, resisting unto blood,
+  Adhering to the Covenant, and laws
+  Establishing the same; which was the cause
+  Their lives were sacrificed unto the last
+  Of prelatists abjured, though here their dust
+  Lies mixed with murderers and other crew
+  Whom justice justly did to death pursue;
+  But as for them, no cause was to be found
+  Worthy of death, but only they were found
+  Constant and steadfast, witnessing
+  For the prerogatives of Christ their King;
+  Which truths were sealed, by famous Guthrie's head,
+  And all along to Mr. Renwick's blood
+  They did endure the wrath of enemies,
+  Reproaches, torments, deaths, and injuries;
+  But yet they're those who from such troubles came
+  And triumph now in glory with the Lamb.
+
+     "From May 27, 1681, when the Marquis of Argyle was beheaded, to
+     February 17, 1688, when James Renwick suffered, there were some
+     eighteen thousand one way or other murdered, of whom were executed
+     at Edinburgh about one hundred noblemen, ministers, and gentlemen,
+     and others, noble martyrs for Christ."
+
+Despite the roughness of the verse, there is a thrilling power in these
+lines. People in gilded houses, on silken couches, at ease among books,
+and friends, and literary pastimes, may sneer at the Covenanters; it is
+much easier to sneer than to die for truth and right, as they died.
+Whether they were right in all respects is nothing to the purpose; but
+it is to the purpose that in a crisis of their country's history they
+upheld a great principle vital to her existence. Had not these men held
+up the heart of Scotland, and kept alive the fire of liberty on her
+altars, the very literature which has been used to defame them could not
+have had its existence. The very literary celebrity of Scotland has
+grown out of their grave; for a vigorous and original literature is
+impossible, except to a strong, free, self-respecting people. The
+literature of a people must spring from the sense of its nationality;
+and nationality is impossible without self-respect, and self-respect is
+impossible without liberty.
+
+It is one of the trials of our mortal state, one of the disciplines of
+our virtue, that the world's benefactors and reformers are so often
+without form or comeliness. The very force necessary to sustain the
+conflict makes them appear unlovely; they "tread the wine press alone,
+and of the people there is none with them." The shrieks, and groans, and
+agonies of men wrestling in mortal combat are often not graceful or
+gracious; but the comments that the children of the Puritans, and the
+children of the Covenanters, make on the ungraceful and severe elements
+which marked the struggles of their great fathers, are as ill-timed as
+if a son, whom a mother had just borne from a burning dwelling, should
+criticize the shrieks with which she sought him, and point out to
+ridicule the dishevelled hair and singed garments which show how she
+struggled for his life. But these are they which are "sown in weakness,
+but raised in power; which are sown in dishonor, but raised in glory:"
+even in this world they will have their judgment day, and their names
+which went down in the dust like a gallant banner trodden in the mire,
+shall rise again all glorious in the sight of nations.
+
+The evening sky, glowing red, threw out the bold outline of the castle,
+and the quaint old edifices as they seemed to look down on us silently
+from their rocky heights, and the figure of Salisbury Crags marked
+itself against the red sky like a couchant lion.
+
+The time of our sojourn in Scotland had drawn towards its close. Though
+feeble in health, this visit to me has been full of enjoyment; full of
+lofty, but sad memories; full of sympathies and inspirations. I think
+there is no nobler land, and I pray God that the old seed here sown in
+blood and tears may never be rooted out of Scotland.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER X.
+
+
+MY DEAR H.:--
+
+It was a rainy, misty morning when I left my kind retreat and friends in
+Edinburgh. Considerate as every body had been about imposing on my time
+or strength, still you may well believe that I was much exhausted.
+
+We left Edinburgh, therefore, with the determination to plunge at once
+into some hidden and unknown spot, where we might spend two or three
+days quietly by ourselves; and remembering your Sunday at
+Stratford-on-Avon, I proposed that we should go there. As Stratford,
+however, is off the railroad line we determined to accept the
+invitation, which was lying by us, from our friend Joseph Sturge, of
+Birmingham, and take sanctuary with him. So we wrote on, intrusting him
+with the secret, and charging him on no account to let any one know of
+our arrival.
+
+Well in the rail car, we went whirling along by Preston Pans, where was
+fought the celebrated battle in which Colonel Gardiner was killed; by
+Dunbar, where Cromwell told his army to "trust in God and keep their
+powder dry;" through Berwick-on-the-Tweed and Newcastle-on-Tyne; by the
+old towers and gates of York, with its splendid cathedral; getting a
+view of Durham Cathedral in the distance.
+
+The country between Berwick and Newcastle is one of the greatest
+manufacturing districts of England, and for smoke, smut, and gloom,
+Pittsburg and Wheeling bear no comparison to it. The English sky,
+always paler and cooler in its tints than ours, here seems to be turned
+into a leaden canopy; tall chimneys belch forth gloom and confusion;
+houses, factories, fences, even trees and grass, look grim and sooty.
+
+It is true that people with immense wealth can live in such regions in
+cleanliness and elegance; but how must it be with the poor? I know of no
+one circumstance more unfavorable to moral purity than the necessity of
+being physically dirty. Our nature is so intensely symbolical, that
+where the outward sign of defilement becomes habitual, the inner is too
+apt to correspond. I am quite sure that before there can be a universal
+millennium, trade must be pursued in such a way as to enable the working
+classes to realize something of beauty and purity in the circumstances
+of their outward life.
+
+I have heard there is a law before the British Parliament, whose
+operation is designed to purify the air of England by introducing
+chimneys which shall consume all the sooty particles which now float
+about, obscuring the air and carrying defilement with them. May that day
+be hastened!
+
+At Newcastle-on-Tyne and some other places various friends came out to
+meet us, some of whom presented us with most splendid bouquets of
+hothouse flowers. This region has been the seat of some of the most
+zealous and efficient antislavery operations in England.
+
+About night our cars whizzed into the depot at Birmingham; but just
+before we came in a difficulty was started in the company. "Mr. Sturge
+is to be there waiting for us, but he does not know us, and we don't
+know him; what is to be done?" C---- insisted that he should know him by
+instinct; and so after we reached the depot, we told him to sally out
+and try. Sure enough, in a few moments he pitched upon a cheerful,
+middle-aged gentleman, with a moderate but not decisive broad brim to
+his hat, and challenged him as Mr. Sturge; the result verified the truth
+that "instinct is a great matter." In a few moments our new friend and
+ourselves were snugly encased in a fly, trotting off as briskly as ever
+we could to his place at Edgbaston, nobody a whit the wiser. You do not
+know how snug we felt to think we had done it so nicely.
+
+The carriage soon drove in upon a gravel walk, winding among turf,
+flowers, and shrubs, where we found opening to us another home as warm
+and kindly as the one we had just left, made doubly interesting by the
+idea of entire privacy and seclusion.
+
+After retiring to our chambers to repair the ravages of travel, we
+united in the pleasant supper room, where the table was laid before a
+bright coal fire: no unimportant feature this fire, I can assure you, in
+a raw cloudy evening. A glass door from the supper room opened into a
+conservatory, brilliant with pink and yellow azalias, golden
+calceolarias, and a profusion of other beauties, whose names I did not
+know.
+
+The side tables were strewn with books, and the ample folds of the drab
+curtains, let down over the windows, shut out the rain, damp, and chill.
+When we were gathered round the table, Mr. Sturge said that he had
+somewhat expected Elihu Burritt that evening, and we all hoped he would
+come. I must not omit to say, that the evening circle was made more
+attractive and agreeable in my eyes by the presence of two or three of
+the little people, who were blessed with the rosy cheek of English
+children.
+
+Mr. Sturge is one of the most prominent and efficient of the
+philanthropists of modern days. An air of benignity and easy good
+nature veils and conceals in him the most unflinching perseverance and
+energy of purpose. He has for many years been a zealous advocate of the
+antislavery cause in England, taking up efficiently the work begun by
+Clarkson and Wilberforce. He, with a friend of the same denomination,
+made a journey at their own expense, to investigate the workings of the
+apprentice system, by which the act of immediate emancipation in the
+West Indies was for a while delayed. After his return he sustained a
+rigorous examination of seven days before a committee of the House of
+Commons, the result of which successfully demonstrated the abuses of
+that system, and its entire inutility for preparing either masters or
+servants for final emancipation. This evidence went as far as any thing
+to induce Parliament to declare immediate and entire emancipation.
+
+Mr. Sturge also has been equally zealous and engaged in movements for
+the ignorant and perishing classes at home. At his own expense he has
+sustained a private Farm School for the reformation of juvenile
+offenders, and it has sometimes been found that boys, whom no severity
+and no punishment seemed to affect, have been entirely melted and
+subdued by the gentler measures here employed. He has also taken a very
+ardent and decided part in efforts for the extension of the principles
+of peace, being a warm friend and supporter of Elihu Burritt.
+
+The next morning it was agreed that we should take our drive to
+Stratford-on-Avon. As yet this shrine of pilgrims stands a little aloof
+from the bustle of modern progress, and railroad cars do not run
+whistling and whisking with brisk officiousness by the old church and
+the fanciful banks of the Avon.
+
+The country that we were to pass over was more peculiarly old English;
+that phase of old English which is destined soon to pass away, under the
+restless regenerating force of modern progress.
+
+Our ride along was a singular commixture of an upper and under current
+of thought. Deep down in our hearts we were going back to English days;
+the cumbrous, quaint, queer, old, picturesque times; the dim, haunted
+times between cock-crowing and morning; those hours of national
+childhood, when popular ideas had the confiding credulity, the poetic
+vivacity, and versatile life, which distinguish children from grown
+people.
+
+No one can fail to feel, in reading any of the plays of Shakspeare, that
+he was born in an age of credulity and marvels, and that the materials
+out of which his mind was woven were dyed in the grain, in the haunted
+springs of tradition. It would have been as absolutely impossible for
+even himself, had he been born in the daylight of this century, to have
+built those quaint, Gothic structures of imagination, and tinted them
+with their peculiar coloring of marvellousness and mystery, as for a
+modern artist to originate and execute the weird designs of an ancient
+cathedral. Both Gothic architecture and this perfection of Gothic poetry
+were the springing and efflorescence of that age, impossible to grow
+again. They were the forest primeval; other trees may spring in their
+room, trees as mighty and as fair, but not such trees.
+
+So, as we rode along, our speculations and thoughts in the under current
+were back in the old world of tradition. While, on the other hand, for
+the upper current, we were keeping up a brisk conversation on the peace
+question, on the abolition of slavery, on the possibility of ignoring
+slave-grown produce, on Mr. Cobden and Mr. Bright, and, in fact, on all
+the most wide-awake topics of the present day.
+
+One little incident occurred upon the road. As we were passing by a
+quaint old mansion, which stood back from the road, surrounded by a deep
+court, Mr. S. said to me, "There is a friend here who would like to see
+thee, if thou hast no objections," and went on to inform me that she was
+an aged woman, who had taken a deep interest in the abolition of slavery
+since the time of its first inception under Clarkson and Wilberforce,
+though now lying very low on a sick bed. Of course we all expressed our
+willingness to stop, and the carriage was soon driving up the gravelled
+walk towards the house. We were ushered into a comfortable sitting room,
+which looked out on beautiful grounds, where the velvet grass, tall,
+dark trees, and a certain quaint air of antiquity in disposition and
+arrangement, gave me a singular kind of pleasure; the more so, that it
+came to me like a dream; that the house and the people were unknown to
+me, and the whole affair entirely unexpected.
+
+I was soon shown into a neat chamber, where an aged woman was lying in
+bed. I was very much struck and impressed by her manner of receiving me.
+With deep emotion and tears, she spoke of the solemnity and sacredness
+of the cause which had for years lain near her heart. There seemed to be
+something almost prophetic in the solemn strain of assurance with which
+she spoke of the final extinction of slavery throughout the world.
+
+I felt both pleased and sorrowful. I felt sorrowful because I knew, if
+all true Christians in America had the same feelings, that men, women,
+and children, for whom Christ died, would no more be sold in my country
+on the auction block.
+
+There have been those in America who have felt and prayed thus nobly and
+sincerely for the heathen in Burmah and Hindostan, and that sentiment
+was a beautiful and an ennobling one; but, alas! the number has been few
+who have felt and prayed for the heathenism, and shame of our own
+country; for the heathenism which sells the very members of the body of
+Christ as merchandise.
+
+When we were again on the road, we were talking on the change of times
+in England since railroads began; and Mr. S. gave an amusing description
+of how the old lords used to travel in state, with their coaches and
+horses, when they went up once a year on a solemn pilgrimage to London,
+with postilions and outriders, and all the country gaping and wondering
+after them.
+
+"I wonder," said one of us, "if Shakspeare were living, what he would
+say to our times, and what he would think of all the questions that are
+agitating the world now." That he did have thoughts whose roots ran far
+beyond the depth of the age in which he lived, is plain enough from
+numberless indications in his plays; but whether he would have taken any
+practical interest in the world's movements is a fair question. The
+poetic mind is not always the progressive one; it has, like moss and
+ivy, a need for something old to cling to and germinate upon. The
+artistic temperament, too, is soft and sensitive; so there are all these
+reasons for thinking that perhaps he would have been for keeping out of
+the way of the heat and dust of modern progress. It does not follow
+because a man has penetration to see an evil, he has energy to reform
+it.
+
+Erasmus saw all that Luther saw just as clearly, but he said that he had
+rather never have truth at all, than contend for it with the world in
+such a tumult. However, on the other hand, England did, in Milton, have
+one poet who girt himself up to the roughest and stormiest work of
+reformation; so it is not quite certain, after all, that Shakspeare
+might not have been a reformer in our times. One thing is quite certain,
+that he would have said very shrewd things about all the matters that
+move the world now, as he certainly did about all matters that he was
+cognizant of in his own day.
+
+It was a little before noon when we drove into Stratford, by which time,
+with our usual fatality in visiting poetic shrines, the day had melted
+off into a kind of drizzling mist, strongly suggestive of a downright
+rain. It is a common trick these English days have; the weather here
+seems to be possessed of a water spirit. This constant drizzle is good
+for ivies, and hawthorns, and ladies' complexions, as whoever travels
+here will observe, but it certainly is very bad for tourists.
+
+This Stratford is a small town, of between three and four thousand
+inhabitants, and has in it a good many quaint old houses, and is
+characterized (so I thought) by an air of respectable, stand-still, and
+meditative repose, which, I am afraid, will entirely give way before the
+railroad demon, for I understand that it is soon to be connected by the
+Oxford, Worcester, and Wolverhampton line with all parts of the kingdom.
+Just think of that black little screeching imp rushing through these
+fields which have inspired so many fancies; how every thing poetical
+will fly before it! Think of such sweet snatches as these set to the
+tune of a railroad whistle:--
+
+  "Hark! hark! the lark at heaven's gate sings,
+    And Phoebus 'gins to rise,
+  His steeds to water at those springs
+    On chaliced flowers that lies.
+
+  And winking Mary-buds begin
+    To ope their golden eyes,
+  With everything that pretty bid
+    My lady sweet to rise."
+
+And again:--
+
+  "Philomel with melody sing in our sweet lullaby,
+    Lulla, lulla, lullaby.
+  Never harm, nor spell, nor charm,
+    Come our lovely lady nigh."
+
+I suppose the meadows, with their "winking Mary-buds," will be all cut
+up into building lots in the good times coming, and Philomel caught and
+put in a cage to sing to tourists at threepence a head.
+
+We went to the White Lion, and soon had a little quiet parlor to
+ourselves, neatly carpeted, with a sofa drawn up to the cheerful coal
+fire, a good-toned piano, and in short every thing cheerful and
+comfortable.
+
+At first we thought we were too tired to do any thing till after dinner;
+we were going to take time to rest ourselves and proceed leisurely; so,
+while the cloth was laying, C---- took possession of the piano, and I of
+the sofa, till Mr. S. came in upon us, saying, "Why, Shakspeare's house
+is right the next door here!" Upon that we got up, just to take a peep,
+and from peeping we proceeded to looking, and finally put on our things
+and went over _seriatim_. The house has recently been bought by a
+Shakspearian club, who have taken upon themselves the restoration and
+preservation of the premises.
+
+Shakspeare's father, it seems, was a man of some position and substance
+in his day, being high sheriff and justice of the peace for the borough;
+and this house, therefore, I suppose, may be considered a specimen of
+the respectable class of houses in the times of Queen Elizabeth. This
+cut is taken from an old print, and is supposed to represent the
+original condition of the house.
+
+We saw a good many old houses somewhat similar to this on the road,
+particularly resembling it in this manner of plastering, which shows all
+the timber on the outside. Parts of the house have been sold, altered,
+and used for various purposes; a butcher's stall having been kept in a
+part of it, and a tavern in another portion, being new-fronted with
+brick.
+
+The object of this Shakspeare Club has been to repurchase all these
+parts, and restore them as nearly as possible to their primeval
+condition. The part of the house which is shown consists of a lower
+room, which is floored with flat stones very much broken. It has a wide,
+old-fashioned chimney on one side, and opens into a smaller room back of
+it. From thence you go up a rude flight of stairs to a low-studded room,
+with rough-plastered walls, where the poet was born.
+
+The prints of this room, which are generally sold, allow themselves in
+considerable poetic license, representing it in fact as quite an elegant
+apartment, whereas, though it is kept scrupulously neat and clean, the
+air of it is ancient and rude. This is a somewhat flattered likeness.
+The roughly-plastered walls are so covered with names that it seemed
+impossible to add another. The name of almost every modern genius, names
+of kings, princes, dukes, are shown here; and it is really curious to
+see by what devices some very insignificant personages have endeavored
+to make their own names conspicuous in the crowd. Generally speaking the
+inscription books and walls of distinguished places tend to give great
+force to the Vulgate rendering of Ecclesiastes i. 15, "The number of
+fools is infinite."
+
+To add a name in a private, modest way to walls already so crowded, is
+allowable; but to scrawl one's name, place of birth, and country, half
+across a wall, covering scores of names under it, is an operation which
+speaks for itself. No one would ever want to know more of a man than to
+see his name there and thus.
+
+Back of this room were some small bed rooms, and what interested me
+much, a staircase leading up into a dark garret. I could not but fancy I
+saw a bright-eyed, curly-headed boy creeping up those stairs, zealous to
+explore the mysteries of that dark garret. There perhaps he saw the cat,
+with "eyne of burning coal, crouching 'fore the mouse's hole." Doubtless
+in this old garret were wonderful mysteries to him, curious stores of
+old cast-off goods and furniture, and rats, and mice, and cobwebs. I
+fancied the indignation of some belligerent grandmother or aunt, who
+finds Willie up there watching a mouse hole, with the cat, and has him
+down straightway, grumbling that Mary did not govern that child better.
+
+We know nothing who this Mary was that was his mother; but one sometimes
+wonders where in that coarse age, when queens and ladies talked
+familiarly, as women would blush to talk now, and when the broad, coarse
+wit of the Merry Wives of Windsor was gotten up to suit the taste of a
+virgin queen,--one wonders, I say, when women were such and so, where he
+found those models of lily-like purity, women so chaste in soul and
+pure in language that they could not even bring their lips to utter a
+word of shame. Desdemona cannot even bring herself to speak the coarse
+word with which her husband taunts her; she cannot make herself believe
+that there are women in the world who could stoop-to such grossness.[L]
+
+For my part I cannot believe that, in such an age, such deep
+heart-knowledge of pure womanhood could have come otherwise than by the
+impression on the child's soul of a mother's purity. I seem to have a
+vision of one of those women whom the world knows not of, silent,
+deep-hearted, loving, whom the coarser and more practically efficient
+jostle aside and underrate for their want of interest in the noisy
+chitchat and commonplace of the day; but who yet have a sacred power,
+like that of the spirit of peace, to brood with dovelike wings over the
+childish heart, and quicken into life the struggling, slumbering
+elements of a sensitive nature.
+
+I cannot but think, in that beautiful scene, where he represents
+Desdemona as amazed and struck dumb with the grossness and brutality of
+the charges which had been thrown upon her, yet so dignified in the
+consciousness of her own purity, so magnanimous in the power of
+disinterested, forgiving love, that he was portraying no ideal
+excellence, but only reproducing, under fictitious and supposititious
+circumstances, the patience, magnanimity, and enduring love which had
+shone upon him in the household words and ways of his mother.
+
+It seemed to me that in that bare and lowly chamber I saw a vision of a
+lovely face which was the first beauty that dawned on those childish
+eyes, and heard that voice whose lullaby tuned his ear to an exquisite
+sense of cadence and rhythm. I fancied that, while she thus serenely
+shone upon, him like a benignant star, some rigorous grand-aunt took
+upon her the practical part of his guidance, chased up his wanderings to
+the right and left, scolded him for wanting to look out of the window
+because his little climbing toes left their mark on the neat wall, or
+rigorously arrested him when his curly head was seen bobbing off at the
+bottom of the street, following a bird, or a dog, or a showman;
+intercepting him in some happy hour when he was aiming to strike off on
+his own account to an adjoining field for "winking Mary-buds;" made long
+sermons to him on the wickedness of muddying his clothes and wetting his
+new shoes, (if he had any,) and told him that something dreadful would
+come out of the graveyard and catch him if he was not a better boy,
+imagining that if it were not for her bustling activity Willie would go
+straight to destruction.
+
+I seem, too, to have a kind of perception of Shakspeare's father; a
+quiet, God-fearing, thoughtful man, given to the reading of good books,
+avoiding quarrels with a most Christian-like fear, and with but small
+talent, either in the way of speech making or money getting; a man who
+wore his coat with an easy slouch, and who seldom knew where his money
+went to.
+
+All these things I seemed to perceive as if a sort of vision had
+radiated from the old walls; there seemed to be the rustling of garments
+and the sound of voices in the deserted rooms; the pattering of feet on
+the worm-eaten staircase; the light of still, shady summer afternoons, a
+hundred years ago, seemed to fall through the casements and lie upon the
+floor. There was an interest to every thing about the house, even to
+the quaint iron fastenings about the windows; because those might have
+arrested that child's attention, and been dwelt on in some dreamy hour
+of infant thought. The fires that once burned in those old chimneys, the
+fleeting sparks, the curling smoke, and glowing coals, all may have
+inspired their fancies. There is a strong tinge of household coloring in
+many parts of Shakspeare, imagery that could only have come from such
+habits of quiet, household contemplation. See, for example, this
+description of the stillness of the house, after all are gone to bed at
+night:--
+
+  "Now sleep yslaked hath the rout;
+  No din but snores, the house about,
+  Made louder by the o'er-fed breast
+  Of this most pompous marriage feast.
+  The cat, with, eyne of burning coal,
+  Now crouches 'fore the mouse's hole;
+  And, crickets sing at th' oven's mouth,
+  As the blither for their drouth."
+
+Also this description of the midnight capers of the fairies about the
+house, from Midsummer Night's Dream:--
+
+  PUCK.  "Now the hungry lion roars,
+           And the wolf behowls the moon;
+         Whilst the heavy ploughman snores,
+           All with, weary task fordone.
+         Now the wasted brands do glow,
+           Whilst the scritch-owl, scritching loud,
+         Puts the wretch, that lies in woe,
+           In remembrance of a shroud.
+         Now it is the time of night,
+           That the graves all gaping wide,
+         Every one lets forth his sprite,
+           In the churchway paths to glide:
+
+         And we fairies that do run
+           By the triple Hecate's team,
+         From the presence of the sun,
+           Following darkness like a dream,
+         Now are frolic; not a mouse
+         Shall disturb this hallowed house:
+         I am sent with, broom, before,
+         To sweep the dust behind the door.
+
+  OBE.   Through this house give glimmering light,
+           By the dead and drowsy fire:
+         Every elf, and fairy sprite,
+           Hop as light as bird, from brier;
+         And this ditty after me
+         Sing, and dance it trippingly."
+
+By the by, one cannot but be struck with the resemblance, in the spirit
+and coloring of these lines, to those very similar ones in the Penseroso
+of Milton:--
+
+  "Far from all resort of mirth,
+  Save the cricket on the hearth,
+  Or the bellman's drowsy charm,
+  To bless the doors from nightly harm;
+  While glowing embers, through the room,
+  Teach light to counterfeit a gloom."
+
+I have often noticed how much the first writings of Milton resemble in
+their imagery and tone of coloring those of Shakspeare, particularly in
+the phraseology and manner of describing flowers. I think, were a
+certain number of passages from Lycidas and Comus interspersed with a
+certain number from Midsummer Night's Dream, the imagery, tone of
+thought, and style of coloring, would be found so nearly identical, that
+it would be difficult for one not perfectly familiar to distinguish
+them. You may try it.
+
+That Milton read and admired Shakspeare is evident from his allusion to
+him in L'Allegro. It is evident, however, that Milton's taste had been
+so formed by the Greek models, that he was not entirely aware of all
+that was in Shakspeare; he speaks of him as a sweet, fanciful warbler,
+and it is exactly in sweetness and fancifulness that he seems to have
+derived benefit from him. In his earlier poems, Milton seems, like
+Shakspeare, to have let his mind run freely, as a brook warbles over
+many-colored pebbles; whereas in his great poem he built after models.
+Had he known as little Latin and Greek as Shakspeare, the world, instead
+of seeing a well-arranged imitation of the ancient epics from his pen,
+would have seen inaugurated a new order of poetry.
+
+An unequalled artist, who should build after the model of a Grecian
+temple, would doubtless produce a splendid and effective building,
+because a certain originality always inheres in genius, even when
+copying; but far greater were it to invent an entirely new style of
+architecture, as different as the Gothic from the Grecian. This merit
+was Shakspeare's. He was a superb Gothic poet; Milton, a magnificent
+imitator of old forms, which by his genius were wrought almost into the
+energy of new productions.
+
+I think Shakspeare is to Milton precisely what Gothic architecture is to
+Grecian, or rather to the warmest, most vitalized reproductions of the
+Grecian; there is in Milton a calm, severe majesty, a graceful and
+polished inflorescence of ornament, that produces, as you look upon it,
+a serene, long, strong ground-swell of admiration and approval. Yet
+there is a cold unity of expression, that calls into exercise only the
+very highest range of our faculties: there is none of that wreathed
+involution of smiles and tears, of solemn earnestness and quaint
+conceits; those sudden uprushings of grand and magnificent sentiment,
+like the flame-pointed arches of cathedrals; those ranges of fancy, half
+goblin, half human; those complications of dizzy magnificence with fairy
+lightness; those streamings of many-colored light; those carvings
+wherein every natural object is faithfully reproduced, yet combined into
+a kind of enchantment: the union of all these is in Shakspeare, and not
+in Milton. Milton had one most glorious phase of humanity in its
+perfection; Shakspeare had all united; from the "deep and dreadful"
+sub-bass of the organ to the most aerial warbling of its highest key,
+not a stop or pipe was wanting.
+
+But, in fine, at the end of all this we went back to our hotel to
+dinner. After dinner we set out to see the church. Even Walter Scott has
+not a more poetic monument than this church, standing as it does amid
+old, embowering trees, on the beautiful banks of the Avon. A soft, still
+rain was falling on the leaves of the linden trees, as we walked up the
+avenue to the church. Even rainy though it was, I noticed that many
+little birds would occasionally break out into song. In the event of
+such a phenomenon as a bright day, I think there must be quite a jubilee
+of birds here, even as he sung who lies below:--
+
+  "The ousel-cock, so black of hue,
+   With orange-tawny bill,
+  The throstle with his note so true,
+   The wren with little quill;
+  The finch, the sparrow, and the lark,
+   The plain-song cuckoo gray."
+
+The church has been carefully restored inside, so that it is now in
+excellent preservation, and Shakspeare lies buried under a broad, flat
+stone in the chancel. I had full often read, and knew by heart, the
+inscription on this stone; but somehow, when I came and stood over it,
+and read it, it affected me as if there were an emanation from the grave
+beneath. I have often wondered at that inscription, that a mind so
+sensitive, that had thought so much, and expressed thought with such
+startling power on all the mysteries of death, the grave, and the future
+world, should have found nothing else to inscribe on his own grave but
+this:--
+
+  Good Friend for Iesus SAKE forbare
+  To digg T-E Dust EncloAsed HERe
+  Blese be T-E Man T spares T-Es Stones
+                   Y
+  And curst be He T moves my Bones
+                  Y
+
+It seems that the inscription has not been without its use, in averting
+what the sensitive poet most dreaded; for it is recorded in one of the
+books sold here, that some years ago, in digging a neighboring grave, a
+careless sexton broke into the side of Shakspeare's tomb, and looking in
+saw his bones, and could easily have carried away the skull had he not
+been deterred by the imprecation.
+
+There is a monument in the side of the wall, which has a bust of
+Shakspeare upon it, said to be the most authentic likeness, and supposed
+to have been taken by a cast from his face after death. This statement
+was made to us by the guide who showed it, and he stated that Chantrey
+had come to that conclusion by a minute examination of the face. He took
+us into a room, where was an exact plaster cast of the bust, on which he
+pointed out various little minutiae on which this idea was founded. The
+two sides of the face are not alike; there is a falling in and
+depression of the muscles on one side which does not exist on the other,
+such as probably would never have occurred in a fancy bust, where the
+effort always is to render the two sides of the face as much alike as
+possible. There is more fulness about the lower part of the face than is
+consistent with the theory of an idealized bust, but is perfectly
+consistent with the probabilities of the time of life at which he died,
+and perhaps with the effects of the disease of which he died.
+
+All this I set down as it was related to me by our guide; it had a very
+plausible and probable sound, and I was bent on believing, which is a
+great matter in faith of all kinds.
+
+It is something in favor of the supposition that this is an authentic
+likeness, that it was erected in his own native town within seven years
+of his death, among people, therefore, who must have preserved the
+recollection of his personal appearance. After the manner of those times
+it was originally painted, the hair and beard of an auburn color, the
+eyes hazel, and the dress was represented as consisting of a scarlet
+doublet, over which was a loose black gown without sleeves; all which
+looks like an attempt to preserve an exact likeness. The inscription
+upon it, also, seemed to show that there were some in the world by no
+means unaware of who and what he was.
+
+Next to the tomb of Shakspeare in the chancel is buried his favorite
+daughter, over whom somebody has placed the following quaint
+inscription:--
+
+  "Witty above her sex, but that's not all,
+  Wise to salvation was good Mistress Hall.
+  Something of Shakspeare was in that, but this
+  Wholly of him, with whom she is now in bliss;
+  Then, passenger, hast ne'er a tear,
+  To weep with her that wept with, all--
+  That wept, yet set herself to cheer
+  Them, up with comfort's cordial?
+  Her lore shall live, her mercy spread,
+  When thou hast ne'er a tear to shed."
+
+This good Mistress Hall, it appears, was Shakspeare's favorite among his
+three children. His son, Hamet, died at twelve years of age. His
+daughter Judith, as appears from some curious document still extant,
+could not write her own name, but signed with her mark; so that the
+"wit" of the family must have concentrated itself in Mistress Hall. To
+her, in his last will, which is still extant, Shakspeare bequeathed an
+amount of houses, lands, plate, jewels, and other valuables, sufficient
+to constitute quite a handsome estate. It would appear, from this, that
+the poet deemed her not only "wise unto salvation," but wise in her day
+and generation, thus intrusting her with the bulk of his worldly goods.
+
+His wife, Ann Hathaway, is buried near by, under the same pavement. From
+the slight notice taken of her in the poet's will, it would appear that
+there was little love between them. He married her when he was but
+eighteen; most likely she was a mere rustic beauty, entirely incapable
+either of appreciating or adapting herself to that wide and wonderful
+mind in its full development.
+
+As to Mistress Hall, though the estate was carefully entailed, through
+her, to heirs male through all generations, it was not her good fortune
+to become the mother of a long line, for she had only one daughter, who
+became Lady Barnard, and in whom, dying childless, the family became
+extinct. Shakspeare, like Scott, seems to have had the desire to
+perpetuate himself by founding a family with an estate, and the
+coincidence in the result is striking. Genius must be its own monument.
+
+After we had explored the church we went out to walk about the place. We
+crossed the beautiful bridge over the Avon, and thought how lovely those
+fields and meadows would look, if they only had sunshine to set them
+out. Then we went to the town hall, where we met the mayor, who had
+kindly called and offered to show us the place.
+
+It seems, in 1768, that Garrick set himself to work in good earnest to
+do honor to Shakspeare's memory, by getting up a public demonstration at
+Stratford; and the world, through the talents of this actor, having
+become alive and enthusiastic, liberal subscriptions were made by the
+nobility and gentry, the town hall was handsomely repaired and adorned,
+and a statue of Shakspeare, presented by Garrick, was placed in a niche
+at one end. Then all the chief men and mighty men of the nation came and
+testified their reverence for the poet, by having a general jubilee. A
+great tent was spread on the banks of the Avon, where they made speeches
+and drank wine, and wound up all with a great dance in the town hall;
+and so the manes of Shakspeare were appeased, and his position settled
+for all generations. The room in the town hall is a very handsome one,
+and has pictures of Garrick, and the other notables who figured on that
+occasion.
+
+After that we were taken to see New Place. "And what is New Place?" you
+say; "the house where Shakspeare lived?" Not exactly; but a house built
+where his house was. This drawing is taken from an old print, and is
+supposed to represent the house as Shakspeare fitted it up.
+
+We went out into what was Shakspeare's garden, where we were shown his
+mulberry--not the one that he planted though, but a veritable mulberry
+planted on the same spot; and then we went back to our hotel very tired,
+but having conscientiously performed every jot and tittle of the duty of
+good pilgrims.
+
+As we sat, in the drizzly evening, over our comfortable tea table, C----
+ventured to intimate pretty decidedly that he considered the whole thing
+a bore; whereat I thought I saw a sly twinkle around the eyes and mouth
+of our most Christian and patient friend, Joseph Sturge. Mr. S.
+laughingly told him that he thought it the greatest exercise of
+Christian tolerance, that he should have trailed round in the mud with
+us all day in our sightseeing, bearing with our unreasonable raptures.
+He smiled, and said, quietly, "I must confess that I was a little
+pleased that our friend Harriet was so zealous to see Shakspeare's
+house, when it wasn't his house, and so earnest to get sprigs from his
+mulberry, when it wasn't his mulberry." We were quite ready to allow the
+foolishness of the thing, and join the laugh at our own expense.
+
+As to our bed rooms, you must know that all the apartments in this house
+are named after different plays of Shakspeare, the name being printed
+conspicuously over each door; so that the choosing of our rooms made us
+a little sport.
+
+"What rooms will you have, gentlemen?" says the pretty chamber maid.
+
+"Rooms," said Mr. S.; "why, what are there to have?"
+
+"Well, there's Richard III., and there's Hamlet," says the girl.
+
+"O, Hamlet, by all means," said I; "that was always my favorite. Can't
+sleep in Richard III., we should have such bad dreams."
+
+"For my part," said C----, "I want All's well that ends well."
+
+"I think," said the chamber maid, hesitating, "the bed in Hamlet isn't
+large enough for two. Richard III. is a very nice room, sir."
+
+In fact, it became evident that we were foreordained to Richard; so we
+resolved to embrace the modern historical view of this subject, which
+will before long turn him out a saint, and not be afraid of the muster
+roll of ghosts which Shakspeare represented as infesting his apartment.
+
+Well, for a wonder, the next morning arose a genuine sunny, beautiful
+day. Let the fact be recorded that such things do sometimes occur even
+in England. C---- was mollified, and began to recant his ill-natured
+heresies of the night before, and went so far as to walk, out of his own
+proper motion, to Ann Hathaway's Cottage before breakfast--he being one
+of the brethren described by Longfellow,
+
+  "Who is gifted with most miraculous powers
+  Of getting up at all sorts of hours;"
+
+and therefore he came in to breakfast table with that serenity of
+virtuous composure which generally attends those who have been out
+enjoying the beauties of nature while their neighbors have been
+ingloriously dozing.
+
+The walk, he said, was beautiful; the cottage damp, musty, and fusty;
+and a supposititious old bedstead, of the age of Queen Elizabeth, which
+had been obtruded upon his notice because it _might_ have belonged to
+Ann Hathaway's mother, received a special malediction. For my part, my
+relic-hunting propensities were not in the slightest degree appeased,
+but rather stimulated, by the investigations of the day before.
+
+It seemed to me so singular that of such a man there should not remain
+one accredited relic! Of Martin Luther, though he lived much earlier,
+how many things remain! Of almost any distinguished character how much
+more is known than of Shakspeare! There is not, so far as I can
+discover, an authentic relic of any thing belonging to him. There are
+very few anecdotes of his sayings or doings; no letters, no private
+memoranda, that should let us into the secret of what he was personally
+who has in turns personated all minds. The very perfection of his
+dramatic talent has become an impenetrable veil: we can no more tell
+from his writings what were his predominant tastes and habits than we
+can discriminate among the variety of melodies what are the native notes
+of the mocking bird. The only means left us for forming an opinion of
+what he was personally are inferences of the most delicate nature from,
+the slightest premises.
+
+The common idea which has pervaded the world, of a joyous, roving,
+somewhat unsettled, and dissipated character, would seem, from many
+well-authenticated facts, to be incorrect. The gayeties and dissipations
+of his life seem to have been confined to his very earliest days, and to
+have been the exuberance of a most extraordinary vitality, bursting into
+existence with such force and vivacity that it had not had time to
+collect itself, and so come to self-knowledge and control. By many
+accounts it would appear that the character he sustained in the last
+years of his life was that of a judicious, common-sense sort of man; a
+discreet, reputable, and religious householder.
+
+The inscription on his tomb is worthy of remark, as indicating the
+reputation he bore at the time: "_Judicio Pylium, genio Socratem, arte
+Maronem_" (In judgment a Nestor, in genius a Socrates, in art a
+Virgil.)
+
+The comparison of him in the first place to Nestor, proverbially famous
+for practical judgment and virtue of life, next to Socrates, who was a
+kind of Greek combination of Dr. Paley and Dr. Franklin, indicates a
+very different impression of him from what would generally be expressed
+of a poet, certainly what would not have been placed on the grave of an
+eccentric, erratic will-o'-the-wisp genius, however distinguished.
+Moreover, the pious author of good Mistress Hall's epitaph records the
+fact of her being "wise to salvation," as a more especial point of
+resemblance to her father than even her being "witty above her sex," and
+expresses most confident hope of her being with him in bliss. The
+Puritan tone of the epitaph, as well as the quality of the verse, gives
+reason to suppose that it was not written by one who was seduced into a
+tombstone lie by any superfluity of poetic sympathy.
+
+The last will of Shakspeare, written by his own hand and still
+preserved, shows several things of the man.
+
+The introduction is as follows:--
+
+"In the name of God. Amen. I, William Shakspeare, at
+Stratford-upon-Avon, in the county of Warwick, gentleman, in perfect
+health and memory, (God be praised,) do make and ordain this my last
+will and testament in manner and form following; that is to say,--
+
+"First, I commend my soul into the hands of God my Creator, hoping, and
+assuredly believing, through the only merits of Jesus Christ, my Savior,
+to be made partaker of life everlasting; and my body to the earth,
+whereof it is made."
+
+The will then goes on to dispose of an amount of houses, lands, plate,
+money, jewels, &c., which showed certainly that the poet had possessed
+some worldly skill and thrift in accumulation, and to divide them with
+a care and accuracy which would indicate that he was by no means of that
+dreamy and unpractical habit of mind which cares not what becomes of
+worldly goods.
+
+We may also infer something of a man's character from the tone and
+sentiments of others towards him. Glass of a certain color casts on
+surrounding objects a reflection of its own hue, and so the tint of a
+man's character returns upon us in the habitual manner in which he is
+spoken of by those around him. The common mode of speaking of Shakspeare
+always savored of endearment. "Gentle Will" is an expression that seemed
+oftenest repeated. Ben Jonson inscribed his funeral verses "To the
+Memory of _my beloved_ Mr. William Shakspeare;" he calls him the "sweet
+swan of Avon." Again, in his lines under a bust of Shakspeare, he
+says,--
+
+  "The figure that thou seest put,
+  It was for gentle Shakspeare cut."
+
+In later times Milton, who could have known him only by tradition, calls
+him "my Shakspeare," "dear son of memory," and "sweetest Shakspeare."
+Now, nobody ever wrote of sweet John Milton, or gentle John Milton, or
+gentle Martin Luther, or even sweet Ben Jonson.
+
+Rowe says of Shakspeare, "The latter part of his life was spent, as all
+men of good sense would wish theirs may be, in ease, retirement, and the
+conversation of his friends. His pleasurable wit and good nature engaged
+him in the acquaintance, and entitled him to the friendship, of the
+gentlemen of the neighborhood." And Dr. Drake says, "He was high in
+reputation as a poet, favored by the great and the accomplished, and
+beloved by all who knew him."
+
+That Shakspeare had religious principle, I infer not merely from the
+indications of his will and tombstone, but from those strong evidences
+of the working of the religious element which are scattered through his
+plays. No man could have a clearer perception of God's authority and
+man's duty; no one has expressed more forcibly the strength of God's
+government, the spirituality of his requirements, or shown with more
+fearful power the struggles of the "law in the members warring against
+the law of the mind."
+
+These evidences, scattered through his plays, of deep religious
+struggles, make probable the idea that, in the latter, thoughtful, and
+tranquil years of his life, devotional impulses might have settled into
+habits, and that the solemn language of his will, in which he professes
+his faith, in Christ, was not a mere form. Probably he had all his life,
+even in his gayest hours, more real religious principle than the
+hilarity of his manner would give reason to suppose. I always fancy he
+was thinking of himself when he wrote this character: "For the man doth
+fear God, howsoever it seem not in him by reason of some large jests he
+doth make."
+
+Neither is there any foundation for the impression that he was
+undervalued in his own times. No literary man of his day had more
+success, more flattering attentions from the great, or reaped more of
+the substantial fruits of popularity, in the form of worldly goods.
+While his contemporary, Ben Jonson, sick in a miserable alley, is forced
+to beg, and receives but a wretched pittance from Charles I.,
+Shakspeare's fortune steadily increases from year to year. He buys the
+best place in his native town, and fits it up with great taste; he
+offered to lend, on proper security, a sum of money for the use of the
+town of Stratford; he added to his estate in Stratford a hundred and
+seventy acres of land; he bought half the great and small tithes of
+Stratford; and his annual income is estimated to have been what would at
+the present time be nearly four thousand dollars.
+
+Queen Elizabeth also patronized him after her ordinary fashion of
+patronizing literary men,--that is to say, she expressed her gracious
+pleasure that he should burn incense to her, and pay his own bills:
+economy was not one of the least of the royal graces. The Earl of
+Southampton patronized him in a more material fashion.
+
+Queen Elizabeth even so far condescended to the poet as to perform
+certain hoidenish tricks while he was playing on the stage, to see if
+she could not disconcert his speaking by the majesty of her royal
+presence. The poet, who was performing the part of King Henry IV., took
+no notice of her motions, till, in order to bring him to a crisis, she
+dropped her glove at his feet; whereat he picked it up, and presented it
+her, improvising these two lines, as if they had been a part of the
+play:--
+
+  "And though, now bent on this high embassy,
+  Yet stoop we to take up our cousin's glove."
+
+I think this anecdote very characteristic of them both; it seems to me
+it shows that the poet did not so absolutely crawl in the dust before
+her, as did almost all the so called men of her court; though he did
+certainly flatter her after a fashion in which few queens can be
+flattered. His description of the belligerent old Gorgon as the "Fair
+Vestal throned by the West" seems like the poetry and fancy of the
+beautiful Fairy Queen wasted upon the half-brute clown:--
+
+  "Come, sit thee down upon this flowery bed,
+    While I thy amiable cheeks do coy,
+  And stick musk roses in thy sleek, smooth, head,
+    And kiss thy fair, large ears, my gentle joy."
+
+Elizabeth's understanding and appreciation of Shakspeare was much after
+the fashion of Nick Bottom's of the Fairy Queen. I cannot but believe
+that the men of genius who employed their powers in celebrating this
+most repulsive and disagreeable woman must sometimes have comforted
+themselves by a good laugh in private.
+
+In order to appreciate Shakspeare's mind from his plays, we must
+discriminate what expressed the gross tastes of his age, and what he
+wrote to please himself. The Merry Wives of Windsor was a specimen of
+what he wrote for the "Fair Vestal;" a commentary on the delicacy of her
+maiden meditations. The Midsummer Night's Dream he wrote from his own
+inner dream world.
+
+In the morning we took leave of our hotel. In leaving we were much
+touched with the simple kindliness of the people of the house. The
+landlady and her daughters came to bid us farewell, with much feeling;
+and the former begged my acceptance of a bead purse, knit by one of her
+daughters, she said, during the winter evenings while they were reading
+Uncle Tom. In this town one finds the simple-hearted, kindly English
+people corresponding to the same class which we see in our retired New
+England towns. We received many marks of kindness from different
+residents in Stratford; in the expression of them, they appreciated and
+entered into our desire for privacy with a delicacy which touched us
+sensibly.
+
+We had little time to look about us to see Stratford in the sunshine. So
+we went over to a place on the banks of the Avon, where, it was said, we
+could gain a very perfect view of the church. The remembrance of this
+spot is to me like a very pleasant dream. The day was bright, the air
+was soft and still, as we walked up and down the alleys of a beautiful
+garden that extended quite to the church; the rooks were dreamily
+cawing, and wheeling in dark, airy circles round the old buttresses and
+spire. A funeral train had come into the graveyard, and the passing bell
+was tolling. A thousand undefined emotions struggled in my mind.
+
+That loving heart, that active fancy, that subtile, elastic power of
+appreciating and expressing all phases, all passions of humanity, are
+they breathed out on the wind? are they spent like the lightning? are
+they exhaled like the breath of flowers? or are they still living, still
+active? and if so, where and how? Is it reserved for us, in that
+"undiscovered country" which he spoke of, ever to meet the great souls
+whose breath has kindled our souls?
+
+I think we forget the consequences of our own belief in immortality, and
+look on the ranks of prostrate dead as a mower on fields of prostrate
+flowers, forgetting that activity is an essential of souls, and that
+every soul which has passed away from this world must ever since have
+been actively developing those habits of mind and modes of feeling which
+it began here.
+
+The haughty, cruel, selfish Elizabeth, and all the great men of her
+court, are still living and acting somewhere; but where? For my part I
+am often reminded, when dwelling on departed genius, of Luther's
+ejaculation for his favorite classic poet: "I hope God will have mercy
+on such."
+
+We speak of the glory of God as exhibited in natural landscape making;
+what is it, compared with the glory of God as shown in the making of
+souls, especially those souls which seem to be endowed with a creative
+power like his own?
+
+There seems, strictly speaking, to be only two classes of souls--the
+creative and the receptive. Now, these creators seem to me to have a
+beauty and a worth about them entirely independent of their moral
+character. That ethereal power which shows itself in Greek sculpture and
+Gothic architecture, in Rubens, Shakspeare, and Mozart, has a quality to
+me inexpressibly admirable and lovable. We may say, it is true, that
+there is no moral excellence in it; but none the less do we admire it.
+God has made us so that we cannot help loving it; our souls go forth to
+it with an infinite longing, nor can that longing be condemned. That
+mystic quality that exists in these souls is a glimpse and intimation of
+what exists in Him in full perfection. If we remember this we shall not
+lose ourselves in admiration of worldly genius, but be led by it to a
+better understanding of what He is, of whom all the glories of poetry
+and art are but symbols and shadows.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+
+DEAR H.:--
+
+From Stratford we drove to Warwick, (or "Warrick," as they call it
+here.) This town stands on a rocky hill on the banks of the Avon, and is
+quite a considerable place, for it returns two members to Parliament,
+and has upwards of ten thousand inhabitants; and also has some famous
+manufactories of wool combing and spinning. But what we came to see was
+the castle. We drove up to the Warwick Arms, which is the principal
+hotel in the place; and, finding that we were within the hours appointed
+for exhibition, we went immediately.
+
+With my head in a kind of historical mist, full of images of York and
+Lancaster, and Red and White Roses, and Warwick the king maker, I looked
+up to the towers and battlements of the old castle. We went in through a
+passage way cut in solid rock, about twenty feet deep, and I should
+think fifty long. These walls were entirely covered with ivy, hanging
+down like green streamers; gentle and peaceable pennons these are,
+waving and whispering that the old war times are gone.
+
+At the end of this passage there is a drawbridge over what was formerly
+the moat, but which is now grassed and planted with shrubbery. Up over
+our heads we saw the great iron teeth of the portcullis. A rusty old
+giant it seemed up there, like Pope and Pagan in Pilgrim's Progress,
+finding no scope for himself in these peaceable times.
+
+When we came fairly into the court yard of the castle, a scene of
+magnificent beauty opened before us. I cannot describe it minutely. The
+principal features are the battlements, towers, and turrets of the old
+feudal castle, encompassed by grounds on which has been expended all
+that princely art of landscape gardening for which England is
+famous--leafy thickets, magnificent trees, openings, and vistas of
+verdure, and wide sweeps of grass, short, thick, and vividly green, as
+the velvet moss we sometimes see growing on rocks in New England. Grass
+is an art and a science in England--it is an institution. The pains that
+are taken in sowing, tending, cutting, clipping, rolling, and otherwise
+nursing and coaxing it, being seconded by the misty breath and often
+falling tears of the climate, produce results which must be seen to be
+appreciated.
+
+So again of trees in England. Trees here are an order of nobility; and
+they wear their crowns right kingly. A few years ago, when Miss Sedgwick
+was in this country, while admiring some splendid trees in a nobleman's
+park, a lady standing by said to her encouragingly, "O, well, I suppose
+your trees in America will be grown up after a while!" Since that time
+another style of thinking of America has come up, and the remark that I
+most generally hear made is, "O, I suppose we cannot think of showing
+you any thing in the way of trees, coming as you do from America!"
+Throwing out of account, however, the gigantic growth of our western
+river bottoms, where I have seen sycamore trunks twenty feet in
+diameter--leaving out of account, I say, all this mammoth arboria, these
+English parks have trees as fine and as effective, of their kind, as any
+of ours; and when I say their trees are an order of nobility, I mean
+that they pay a reverence to them such as their magnificence deserves.
+Such elms as adorn the streets of New Haven, or overarch the meadows of
+Andover, would in England be considered as of a value which no money
+could represent; no pains, no expense would be spared to preserve their
+life and health; they would never be shot dead by having gas pipes laid
+under them, as they have been in some of our New England towns; or
+suffered to be devoured by canker worms for want of any amount of money
+spent in their defence.
+
+Some of the finest trees in this place are magnificent cedars of
+Lebanon, which bring to mind the expression in Psalms, "Excellent as the
+cedars." They are the very impersonation of kingly majesty, and are
+fitted to grace the old feudal stronghold of Warwick the king maker.
+These trees, standing as they do amid magnificent sweeps and undulations
+of lawn, throwing out their mighty arms with such majestic breadth and
+freedom of outline, are themselves a living, growing, historical epic.
+Their seed was brought from Holy Land in the old days of the crusades;
+and a hundred legends might be made up of the time, date, and occasion
+of their planting. These crusades have left their mark every where
+through Europe, from the cross panel on the doors of common houses to
+the oriental touches and arabesques of castles and cathedrals.
+
+In the reign of Stephen there was a certain Roger de Newburg, second
+Earl of Warwick, who appears to have been an exceedingly active and
+public-spirited character; and, besides conquering part of Wales,
+founded in this neighborhood various priories and hospitals, among which
+was the house of the Templars, and a hospital for lepers. He made
+several pilgrimages to Holy Land; and so I think it as likely as most
+theories that he ought to have the credit of these cedars.
+
+These Earls of Warwick appear always to have been remarkably stirring
+men in their day and generation, and foremost in whatever was going on
+in the world, whether political or religious. To begin, there was Guy,
+Earl of Warwick, who lived somewhere in the times of the old
+dispensation, before King Arthur, and who distinguished himself,
+according to the fashion of those days, by killing giants and various
+colored dragons, among which a green one especially figures. It appears
+that he slew also a notable dun cow, of a kind of mastodon breed, which
+prevailed in those early days, which was making great havoc in the
+neighborhood. In later times, when the giants, dragons, and other
+animals of that sort were somewhat brought under, we find the Earls of
+Warwick equally busy burning and slaying to the right and left; now
+crusading into Palestine, and now fighting the French, who were a
+standing resort for activity when nothing else was to be done; with
+great versatility diversifying these affairs with pilgrimages to the
+holy sepulchre, and founding monasteries and hospitals. One stout earl,
+after going to Palestine and laying about him like a very dragon for
+some years, brought home a live Saracen king to London, and had him
+baptized and made a Christian of, _vi et armis_.
+
+During the scuffle of the Roses, it was a Warwick, of course, who was
+uppermost. Stout old Richard, the king maker, set up first one party and
+then the other, according to his own sovereign pleasure, and showed as
+much talent at fighting on both sides, and keeping the country in an
+uproar, as the modern politicians of America.
+
+When the times of the Long Parliament and the Commonwealth came, an Earl
+of Warwick was high admiral of England, and fought valiantly for the
+Commonwealth, using the navy on the popular side; and his grandson
+married the youngest daughter of Oliver Cromwell. When the royal family
+was to be restored, an Earl of Warwick was one of the six lords who were
+sent to Holland for Charles II. The earls of this family have been no
+less distinguished for movements which have favored the advance of
+civilization and letters than for energy in the battle field. In the
+reign of Queen Elizabeth an Earl of Warwick founded the History Lecture
+at Cambridge, and left a salary for the professor. This same earl was
+general patron of letters and arts, assisting many men of talents, and
+was a particular and intimate friend of Sir Philip Sidney.
+
+What more especially concerns us as New Englanders is, that an earl of
+this house was the powerful patron and protector of New England during
+the earlier years of our country. This was Robert Greville, the high
+admiral of England before alluded to, and ever looked upon as a
+protector of the Puritans. Frequent allusion is made to him in
+Winthrop's Journal as performing various good offices for them.
+
+The first grant of Connecticut was made to this earl, and by him
+assigned to Lord Say and Seal, and Lord Brooke. The patronage which this
+earl extended to the Puritans is more remarkable because in principle he
+was favorable to Episcopacy. It appears to have been prompted by a
+chivalrous sense of justice; probably the same which influenced old Guy
+of Warwick in the King Arthur times, of whom the ancient chronicler
+says, "This worshipful knight, in his acts of warre, ever consydered
+what parties had wronge, and therto would he drawe."
+
+The present earl has never taken a share in public or political life,
+but resided entirely on his estate, devoting himself to the improvement
+of his ground and tenants. He received the estate much embarrassed, and
+the condition of the tenantry was at that time quite depressed. By the
+devotion of his life it has been rendered one of the most flourishing
+and prosperous estates in this part of England. I have heard him spoken
+of as a very exemplary, excellent man. He is now quite advanced, and has
+been for some time in failing health. He sent our party a very kind and
+obliging message, desiring that we would consider ourselves fully at
+liberty to visit any part of the grounds or castle, there being always
+some reservation as to what tourists may visit.
+
+We caught glimpses of him once or twice, supported by attendants, as he
+was taking the air in one of the walks of the grounds, and afterwards
+wheeled about in a garden chair.
+
+The family has thrice died out in the direct line, and been obliged to
+resuscitate through collateral branches; but it seems the blood holds
+good notwithstanding. As to honors there is scarcely a possible
+distinction in the state or army that has not at one time or other been
+the property of this family.
+
+Under the shade of these lofty cedars they have sprung and fallen, an
+hereditary line of princes. One cannot but feel, in looking on these
+majestic trees, with the battlements, turrets, and towers of the old
+castle every where surrounding him, and the magnificent parks and lawns
+opening through dreamy vistas of trees into what seems immeasurable
+distance, the force of the soliloquy which Shakspeare puts into the
+mouth of the dying old king maker, as he lies breathing out his soul in
+the dust and blood of the battle field:--
+
+  "Thus yields the cedar to the axe's edge,
+  Whose arms gave shelter to the princely eagle,
+  Under whose shade the rampant lion slept;
+  Whose top branch overpeered Jove's spreading tree,
+  And kept low shrubs from, winter's powerful wind.
+  These eyes, that now are dimmed with death's black veil,
+  Have been as piercing as the midday sun
+  To search, the secret treasons of the world:
+  The wrinkles in my brow, now filled with blood,
+  Were likened oft to kingly sepulchres;
+  For who lived king but I could dig his grave?
+  And who durst smile when Warwick bent his brow?
+  Lo, now my glory smeared in dust and blood!
+  My parks, my walks, my manors that I had,
+  Even now forsake me; and of all my lands
+  Is nothing left me but my body's length!
+  Why, what is pomp, rule, reign, but earth and dust?
+  And live we how we can, yet die we must."
+
+During Shakspeare's life Warwick was in the possession of Greville, the
+friend of Sir Philip Sidney, and patron of arts and letters. It is not,
+therefore, improbable that Shakspeare might, in his times, often have
+been admitted to wander through the magnificent grounds, and it is more
+than probable that the sight of these majestic cedars might have
+suggested the noble image in this soliloquy. It is only about eight
+miles from Stratford, within the fair limits of a comfortable pedestrian
+excursion, and certainly could not but have been an object of deep
+interest to such a mind as his.
+
+I have described the grounds first, but, in fact, we did not look at
+them first, but went into the house where we saw not only all the state
+rooms, but, through the kindness of the noble proprietor, many of those
+which are not commonly exhibited; a bewildering display of magnificent
+apartments, pictures, gems, vases, arms and armor, antiques, all, in
+short, that the wealth of a princely and powerful family had for
+centuries been accumulating.
+
+The great hall of the castle is sixty-two feet in length and forty in
+breadth, ornamented with a richly carved Gothic roof, in which figures
+largely the family cognizance of the bear and ragged staff. There is a
+succession of shields, on which are emblazoned the quarterings of
+successive Earls of Warwick. The sides of the wall are ornamented with
+lances, corselets, shields, helmets, and complete suits of armor,
+regularly arranged as in an armory. Here I learned what the buff coat
+is, which had so often puzzled me in reading Scott's descriptions, as
+there were several hanging up here. It seemed to be a loose doublet of
+chamois leather, which was worn under the armor, and protected the body
+from its harshness.
+
+Here we saw the helmet of Cromwell, a most venerable relic. Before the
+great, cavernous fireplace was piled up on a sled a quantity of yew tree
+wood. The rude simplicity of thus arranging it on the polished floor of
+this magnificent apartment struck me as quite singular. I suppose it is
+a continuation of some ancient custom.
+
+Opening from this apartment on either side are suits of rooms, the whole
+series being three hundred and thirty-three feet in length. These rooms
+are all hung with pictures, and studded with antiques and curiosities of
+immense value. There is, first, the red drawing room, and then the cedar
+drawing room, then the gilt drawing room, the state bed room, the
+boudoir, &c., &c., hung with pictures by Vandyke, Rubens, Guido, Sir
+Joshua Reynolds, Paul Veronese, any one of which would require days of
+study; of course, the casual glance that one could give them in a rapid
+survey would not amount to much.
+
+We were shown one table of gems and lapis lazuli, which cost what would
+be reckoned a comfortable fortune in New England. For matters of this
+kind I have little sympathy. The canvas, made vivid by the soul of an
+inspired artist, tells me something of God's power in creating that
+soul; but a table of gems is in no wise interesting to me, except so far
+as it is pretty in itself.
+
+I walked to one of the windows of these lordly apartments, and while the
+company were examining buhl cabinets, and all other deliciousness of the
+place, I looked down the old gray walls into the amber waters of the
+Avon, which flows at their base, and thought that the most beautiful of
+all was without. There is a tiny fall that crosses the river just above
+here, whose waters turn the wheels of an old mossy mill, where for
+centuries the family grain has been ground. The river winds away through
+the beautiful parks and undulating foliage, its soft, grassy banks
+dotted here and there with sheep and cattle, and you catch farewell
+gleams and glitters of it as it loses itself among the trees.
+
+Gray moss, wall flowers, ivy, and grass were growing here and there out
+of crevices in the castle walls, as I looked down, sometimes trailing
+their rippling tendrils in the river. This vegetative propensity of
+walls is one of the chief graces of these old buildings.
+
+In the state bed room were a bed and furnishings of rich, crimson
+velvet, once belonging to Queen Anne, and presented by George III. to
+the Warwick family. The walls are hung with Brussels tapestry,
+representing the gardens of Versailles as they were at the time. The
+chimney-piece, which is sculptured of verde antique and white marble,
+supports two black marble vases on its mantel. Over the mantel-piece is
+a full-length portrait of Queen Anne, in a rich brocade dress, wearing
+the collar and jewels of the Garter, bearing in one hand a sceptre, and
+in the other a globe. There are two splendid buhl cabinets in the room,
+and a table of costly stone from Italy; it is mounted on a richly carved
+and gilt stand.
+
+The boudoir, which adjoins, is hung with pea-green satin and velvet. In
+this room is one of the most authentic portraits of Henry VIII., by
+Holbein, in which that selfish, brutal, unfeeling tyrant is veritably
+set forth, with all the gold and gems which, in his day, blinded
+mankind; his fat, white hands were beautifully painted. Men have found
+out Henry VIII. by this time; he is a dead sinner, and nothing more is
+to be expected of him, and so he gets a just award; but the disposition
+which bows down and worships any thing of any character in our day which
+is splendid and successful, and excuses all moral delinquencies, if they
+are only available, is not a whit better than that which cringed before
+Henry.
+
+In the same room was a boar hunt, by Rubens, a disagreeable subject, but
+wrought with wonderful power. There were several other pictures of
+Holbein's in this room; one of Martin Luther.
+
+We passed through a long corridor, whose sides were lined with pictures,
+statues, busts, &c. Out of the multitude, three particularly interested
+me; one was a noble but melancholy bust of the Black Prince, beautifully
+chiselled in white marble; another was a plaster cast, said to have been
+taken of the face of Oliver Cromwell immediately after death. The face
+had a homely strength amounting almost to coarseness. The evidences of
+its genuineness appear in glancing at it; every thing is authentic, even
+to the wart on his lip; no one would have imagined such a one, but the
+expression was noble and peaceful, bringing to mind the oft-quoted
+words,--
+
+  "After life's fitful fever, he sleeps well."
+
+At the end of the same corridor is a splendid picture of Charles I. on
+horseback, by Vandyke, a most masterly performance, and appearing in its
+position almost like a reality. Poor Charles had rather hard measure, it
+always seemed to me. He simply did as all other princes had done before
+him; that is to say, he lied steadily, invariably, and conscientiously,
+in every instance where he thought he could gain any thing by it, just
+as Charles V., and Francis IV., and Catharine de Medicis, and Henry
+VIII., and Elizabeth, and James, and all good royal folks had always
+done; and lo! _he_ must lose his head for it. His was altogether a more
+gentlemanly and respectable performance than that of Henry, not wanting
+in a sort of ideal magnificence, which his brutal predecessor, or even
+his shambling old father never dreamed of. But so it is; it is not
+always on those who are sinners above all men that the tower of Siloam
+falls, but only on those who happen to be under it when its time comes.
+So I intend to cherish a little partiality for gentlemanly, magnificent
+Charles I.; and certainly one could get no more splendid idea of him
+than by seeing him stately, silent, and melancholy on his white horse,
+at the end of this long corridor. There he sits, facing the calm, stony,
+sleeping face of Oliver, and neither question or reply passes between
+them.
+
+From this corridor we went into the chapel, whose Gothic windows, filled
+with rich, old painted glass, cast a many-colored light over the
+oak-carved walls and altar-piece. The ceiling is of fine, old oak,
+wrought with the arms of the family. The window over the altar is the
+gift of the Earl of Essex. This room is devoted to the daily religious
+worship of the family. It has been the custom of the present earl in
+former years to conduct the devotions of the family here himself.
+
+About this time my head and eyes came to that point which Solomon
+intimates to be not commonly arrived at by mortals--when the eye is
+satisfied with seeing. I remember a confused ramble through apartment
+after apartment, but not a single thing in them, except two pictures of
+Salvator Rosa's, which I thought extremely ugly, and was told, as people
+always are when they make such declarations, that the difficulty was
+entirely in myself, and that if I would study them two or three months
+in faith, I should perceive something very astonishing. This may be, but
+it holds equally good of the coals of an evening fire, or the sparks on
+a chimney back; in either of which, by resolute looking, and some
+imagination, one can see any thing he chooses. I utterly distrust this
+process, by which old black pictures are looked into shape; but then I
+have nothing to lose, being in the court of the Gentiles in these
+matters, and obstinately determined not to believe in any real presence
+in art which I cannot perceive by my senses.
+
+After having examined all the upper stories, we went down into the
+vaults underneath--vaults once grim and hoary, terrible to captives and
+feudal enemies, now devoted to no purpose more grim than that of coal
+cellars and wine vaults. In Oliver's time, a regiment was quartered
+there: they are extensive enough, apparently, for an army.
+
+The kitchen and its adjuncts are of magnificent dimensions, and indicate
+an amplitude in the way of provision for good cheer worthy an ancient
+house; and what struck me as a still better feature was a library of
+sound, sensible, historical, and religious works for the servants.
+
+We went into the beer vaults, where a man drew beer into a long black
+jack, such as Scott describes. It is a tankard, made of black leather, I
+should think half a yard deep. He drew the beer from a large hogshead,
+and offered us some in a glass. It looked very clear, but, on tasting, I
+found it so exceedingly bitter that it struck me there would be small
+virtue for me in abstinence.
+
+In passing up to go out of the house, we met in the entry two
+pleasant-looking young women, dressed in white muslin. As they passed
+us, a door opened where a table was handsomely set out, at which quite a
+number of well-dressed people were seating themselves. I withdrew my
+eyes immediately, fearing lest I had violated some privacy. Our
+conductor said to us, "That is the upper servants' dining room."
+
+Once in the yard again, we went to see some of the older parts of the
+building. The oldest of these, Caesar's Tower, which is said to go back
+to the time of the Romans, is not now shown to visitors. Beneath it is a
+dark, damp dungeon, where prisoners used to be confined, the walls of
+which are traced all over with inscriptions and rude drawings.
+
+Then you are conducted to Guy's Tower, named, I suppose, after the hero
+of the green dragon and dun cow. Here are five tiers of guard rooms, and
+by the ascent of a hundred and thirty-three steps you reach the
+battlements, where you gain a view of the whole court and grounds, as
+well as of the beautiful surrounding landscape.
+
+In coming down from this tower, we somehow or other got upon the
+ramparts, which connect it with the great gate. We walked on the wall
+four abreast, and played that we were knights and ladies of the olden
+time, walking on the ramparts. And I picked a bough from an old pine
+tree that grew over our heads; it much resembled our American yellow
+pitch pine.
+
+Then we went down and crossed the grounds to the greenhouse, to see the
+famous Warwick vase. The greenhouse is built with a Gothic stone front,
+situated on a fine point in the landscape. And there, on a pedestal,
+surrounded by all manner of flowering shrubs, stands this celebrated
+antique. It is of white marble, and was found at the bottom of a lake
+near Adrian's villa, in Italy. They say that it holds a hundred and
+thirty-six gallons; constructed, I suppose, in the roistering old
+drinking times of the Roman emperors, when men seem to have discovered
+that the grand object for which they were sent into existence was to
+perform the functions of wine skins. It is beautifully sculptured with
+grape leaves, and the skin and claws of the panther--these latter
+certainly not an inappropriate emblem of the god of wine, beautiful, but
+dangerous.
+
+Well, now it was all done. Merodach Baladan had not a more perfect
+_expose_ of the riches of Hezekiah than we had of the glories of
+Warwick. One always likes to see the most perfect thing of its kind; and
+probably this is the most perfect specimen of the feudal ages yet
+remaining in England.
+
+As I stood with Joseph Sturge under the old cedars of Lebanon, and
+watched the multitude of tourists, and parties of pleasure, who were
+thronging the walks, I said to him, "After all, this establishment
+amounts to a public museum and pleasure grounds for the use of the
+people." He assented. "And," said I, "you English people like these
+things; you like these old magnificent seats, kept up by old families."
+"That is what I tell them," said Joseph Sturge. "I tell them there is no
+danger in enlarging the suffrage, for the people would not break up
+these old establishments if they could." On that point, of course, I had
+no means of forming an opinion.
+
+One cannot view an institution so unlike any thing we have in our own
+country without having many reflections excited, for one of these
+estates may justly be called an institution; it includes within itself
+all the influence on a community of a great model farm, of model
+housekeeping, of a general museum of historic remains, and of a gallery
+of fine arts.
+
+It is a fact that all these establishments through England are, at
+certain fixed hours, thrown open for the inspection of whoever may
+choose to visit them, with no other expense than the gratuity which
+custom requires to be given to the servant who shows them. I noticed, as
+we passed from one part of the ground to another, that our guides
+changed--one part apparently being the perquisite of one servant, and
+one of another. Many of the servants who showed them appeared to be
+superannuated men, who probably had this post as one of the dignities
+and perquisites of their old age.
+
+The influence of these estates on the community cannot but be in many
+respects beneficial, and should go some way to qualify the prejudice
+with which republicans are apt to contemplate any thing aristocratic;
+for although the legal title to these things inheres in but one man, yet
+in a very important sense they belong to the whole community, indeed, to
+universal humanity. It may be very undesirable and unwise to wish to
+imitate these institutions in America, and yet it may be illiberal to
+undervalue them as they stand in England. A man would not build a house,
+in this nineteenth century, on the pattern of a feudal castle; and yet
+where the feudal castle is built, surely its antique grace might plead
+somewhat in its favor, and it may be better to accommodate it to modern
+uses, than to level it, and erect a modern mansion in its place.
+
+Nor, since the world is wide, and now being rapidly united by steam into
+one country, does the objection to these things, on account of the room
+they take up, seem so great as formerly. In the million of square miles
+of the globe there is room enough for all sorts of things.
+
+With such reflections the lover of the picturesque may comfort himself,
+hoping that he is not sinning against the useful in his admiration of
+the beautiful.
+
+One great achievement of the millennium, I trust, will be in uniting
+these two elements, which have ever been contending. There was great
+significance in the old Greek fable which represented Venus as the
+divinely-appointed helpmeet of Vulcan, and yet always quarrelling with
+him.
+
+We can scarce look at the struggling, earth-bound condition of useful
+labor through the world without joining in the beautiful aspiration of
+our American poet,--
+
+  "Surely, the wiser time shall come
+     When this fine overplus of might,
+  No longer sullen, slow, and dumb,
+    Shall leap to music and to light.
+
+  In that new childhood of the world
+    Life of itself shall dance and play,
+  Fresh blood through Time's shrunk veins be hurled,
+    And labor meet delight half way."[M]
+
+In the new state of society which we are trying to found in America, it
+must be our effort to hasten the consummation. These great estates of
+old countries may keep it for their share of the matter to work out
+perfect models, while we will seize the ideas thus elaborated, and make
+them the property of the million.
+
+As we were going out, we stopped a little while at the porter's lodge to
+look at some relics.
+
+Now, I dare say that you have been thinking, all the while, that these
+stories about the wonderful Guy are a sheer fabrication, or, to use a
+convenient modern term, a myth. Know, then, that the identical armor
+belonging to him is still preserved here; to wit, the sword, about
+seven feet long, a shield, helmet, breastplate, and tilting pole,
+together with his porridge pot, which holds one hundred and twenty
+gallons, and a large fork, as they call it, about three feet long; I am
+inclined to think this must have been his toothpick! His sword weighs
+twenty pounds.
+
+There is, moreover, a rib of the mastodon cow which he killed, hung up
+for the terror of all refractory beasts of that name in modern days.
+
+Furthermore, know, then, that there are authentic documents in the
+Ashmolean Museum, at Oxford, showing that the family run back to within
+four years after the birth of Christ, so that there is abundance of time
+for them to have done a little of almost every thing. It appears that
+they have been always addicted to exploits, since we read of one of
+them, soon after the Christian era, encountering a giant, who ran upon
+him with a tree which he had snapped off for the purpose, for it seems
+giants were not nice in the choice of weapons; but the chronicler says,
+"The Lord had grace with him, and overcame the giant," and in
+commemoration of this event the family introduced into their arms the
+ragged staff.
+
+It is recorded of another of the race, that he was one of seven children
+born at a birth, and that all the rest of his brothers and sisters were,
+by enchantment, turned into swans with gold collars. This remarkable
+case occurred in the time of the grandfather of Sir Guy, and of course,
+if we believe this, we shall find no difficulty in the case of the cow,
+or any thing else.
+
+There is a very scarce book in the possession of a gentleman of Warwick,
+written by one Dr. John Kay, or caius, in which he gives an account of
+the rare and peculiar animals of England in 1552. In this he mentioned
+seeing the bones of the head and the vertebrae of the neck of an
+enormous animal at Warwick Castle. He states that the shoulder blade was
+hung up by chains from the north gate of Coventry, and that a rib of the
+same animal was hanging up in the chapel of Guy, Earl of Warwick, and
+that the people fancied it to be the rib of a cow which haunted a ditch
+near Coventry, and did injury to many persons; and he goes on to imagine
+that this may be the bone of a bonasus or a urus. He says, "It is
+probable many animals of this kind formerly lived in our England, being
+of old an island full of woods and forests, because even in our boyhood
+the horns of these animals were in common use at the table." The story
+of Sir Guy is furthermore quite romantic, and contains some
+circumstances very instructive to all ladies. For the chronicler
+asserts, "that Dame Felye, daughter and heire to Erle Rohand, for her
+beauty called Fely le Belle, or Felys the Fayre, by true enheritance,
+was Countesse of Warwyke, and lady and wyfe to the most victoriouse
+Knight, Sir Guy, to whom in his woing tyme she made greate straungeres,
+and caused him, for her sake, to put himself in meny greate distresses,
+dangers, and perills; but when they were wedded, and b'en but a little
+season together, he departed from her, to her greate hevynes, and never
+was conversant with her after, to her understandinge." That this may not
+appear to be the result of any revengeful spirit on the part of Sir Guy,
+the chronicler goes on further to state his motives--that, after his
+marriage, considering what he had done for a woman's sake, he thought to
+spend the other part of his life for God's sake, and so departed from
+his lady in pilgrim weeds, which raiment he kept to his life's end.
+After wandering about a good many years he settled in a hermitage, in a
+place not far from the castle, called Guy's Cliff, and when his lady
+distributed food to beggars at the castle gate, was in the habit of
+coming among them to receive alms, without making himself known to her.
+It states, moreover, that two days before his death an angel informed
+him of the time of his departure, and that his lady would die a
+fortnight after him, which happening accordingly, they were both buried
+in the grave together. A romantic cavern, at the place called Guy's
+Cliff, is shown as the dwelling of the recluse. The story is a curious
+relic of the religious ideas of the times.
+
+On our way from the castle we passed by Guy's Cliff, which is at present
+the seat of the Hon. C.B. Percy. The establishment looked beautifully
+from the road, as we saw it up a long avenue of trees; it is one of the
+places travellers generally examine, but as we were bound for Kenilworth
+we were content to take it on trust. It is but a short drive from there
+to Kenilworth. We got there about the middle of the afternoon.
+Kenilworth has been quite as extensive as Warwick, though now entirely
+gone to ruins. I believe Oliver Cromwell's army have the credit of
+finally dismantling it. Cromwell seems literally to have left his mark
+on his generation, for I never saw a ruin in England when I did not hear
+that he had something to do with it. Every broken arch and ruined
+battlement seemed always to find a sufficient account of itself by
+simply enunciating the word Cromwell. And when we see how much the
+Puritans arrayed against themselves all the aesthetic principles of our
+nature, we can somewhat pardon those who did not look deeper than the
+surface, for the prejudice with which they regarded the whole movement;
+a movement, however, of which we, and all which is most precious to us,
+are the lineal descendants and heirs.
+
+We wandered over the ruins, which are very extensive, and which Scott,
+with his usual vivacity and accuracy, has restored and repeopled. We
+climbed up into Amy Robsart's chamber; we scrambled into one of the
+arched windows of what was formerly the great dining hall, where
+Elizabeth feasted in the midst of her lords and ladies, and where every
+stone had rung to the sound of merriment and revelry. The windows are
+broken out; it is roofless and floorless, waving and rustling with
+pendent ivy, and vocal with the song of hundreds of little birds.
+
+We wandered from room to room, looking up and seeing in the walls the
+desolate fireplaces, tier over tier, the places where the beams of the
+floors had gone into the walls, and still the birds continued their
+singing every where.
+
+Nothing affected me more than this ceaseless singing and rejoicing of
+birds in these old gray ruins. They seemed so perfectly joyous and happy
+amid the desolations, so airy and fanciful in their bursts of song, so
+ignorant and careless of the deep meaning of the gray desolation around
+them, that I could not but be moved. It was nothing to them how these
+stately, sculptured walls became lonely and ruinous, and all the weight
+of a thousand thoughts and questionings which arise to us is never even
+dreamed by them. They sow not, neither do they reap, but their heavenly
+Father feeds them; and so the wilderness and the desolate place is glad
+in them, and they are glad in the wilderness and desolate place.
+
+It was a beautiful conception, this making of birds. Shelley calls them
+"imbodied joys;" and Christ says, that amid the vaster ruins of man's
+desolation, ruins more dreadfully suggestive than those of sculptured
+frieze and architrave, we can yet live a bird's life of unanxious joy;
+or, as Martin Luther beautifully paraphrases it, "We can be like a bird,
+that sits singing on his twig and lets God think for him."
+
+The deep consciousness that we are ourselves ruined, and that this world
+is a desolation more awful, and of more sublime material, and wrought
+from stuff of higher temper than ever was sculptured in hall or
+cathedral, this it must be that touches such deep springs of sympathy in
+the presence of ruins. We, too, are desolate, shattered, and scathed;
+there are traceries and columns of celestial workmanship; there are
+heaven-aspiring arches, splendid colonnades and halls, but fragmentary
+all. Yet above us bends an all-pitying Heaven, and spiritual voices and
+callings in our hearts, like these little singing birds, speak of a time
+when almighty power shall take pleasure in these stones, and favor the
+dust thereof.
+
+We sat on the top of the strong tower, and looked off into the country,
+and talked a good while. Some of the ivy that mantles this building has
+a trunk as large as a man's body, and throws out numberless strong arms,
+which, interweaving, embrace and interlace half-falling towers, and hold
+them up in a living, growing mass of green.
+
+The walls of one of the oldest towers are sixteen feet thick. The lake,
+which Scott speaks of, is dried up and grown over with rushes. The
+former moat presents only a grassy hollow. What was formerly a gate
+house is still inhabited by the family who have the care of the
+building. The land around the gate house is choicely and carefully laid
+out, and has high, clipped hedges of a species of variegated holly.
+
+Thus much of old castles and ivy. Farewell to Kenilworth.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+
+MY DEAR H.:--
+
+After leaving Kenilworth we drove to Coventry, where we took the cars
+again. This whole ride from Stratford to Warwick, and on to Coventry,
+answers more to my ideas of old England than any thing I have seen; it
+is considered one of the most beautiful parts of the kingdom. It has
+quaint old houses, and a certain air of rural, picturesque quiet, which
+is very charming.
+
+Coventry is old and queer, with narrow streets and curious houses, famed
+for the ancient legend of Godiva, one of those beautiful myths that
+grow, like the mistletoe, on the bare branches of history, and which, if
+they never were true in the letter, have been a thousand times true in
+the spirit.
+
+The evening came on raw and chilly, so that we rejoiced to find
+ourselves once more in the curtained parlor by the bright, sociable
+fire.
+
+As we were drinking tea Elihu Burritt came in. It was the first time I
+had ever seen him, though I had heard a great deal of him from our
+friends in Edinburgh. He is a man in middle life, tall and slender, with
+fair complexion, blue eyes, an air of delicacy and refinement, and
+manners of great gentleness. My ideas of the "Learned Blacksmith" had
+been of something altogether more ponderous and peremptory. Elihu has
+been, for some years, operating in England and on the continent in a
+movement which many, in our half-Christianized times, regard with as
+much incredulity as the grim, old, warlike barons did the suspicious
+imbecilities of reading and writing. The sword now, as then, seems so
+much more direct a way to terminate controversies, that many Christian
+men, even, cannot conceive how the world is to get along without it.
+
+Burritt's mode of operation has been by the silent organization of
+circles of ladies in all the different towns of the United Kingdom, who
+raise a certain sum for the diffusion of the principles of peace on
+earth and good will to men. Articles, setting forth the evils of war,
+moral, political, and social, being prepared, these circles pay for
+their insertion in all the principal newspapers of the continent. They
+have secured to themselves in this way a continual utterance in France,
+Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, and Germany; so that from week to
+week, and month to month, they can insert articles upon these subjects.
+Many times the editors insert the articles as editorial, which still
+further favors their design. In addition to this, the ladies of these
+circles in England correspond with the ladies of similar circles
+existing in other countries; and in this way there is a mutual
+kindliness of feeling established through these countries.
+
+When recently war was threatening between England and France, through
+the influence of these societies conciliatory addresses were sent from
+many of the principal towns of England to many of the principal towns of
+France; and the effect of these measures in allaying irritation and
+agitation was very perceptible.
+
+Furthermore, these societies are preparing numerous little books for
+children, in which the principles of peace, kindness, and mutual
+forbearance are constantly set forth, and the evil and unchristian
+nature of the mere collision of brute force exemplified in a thousand
+ways. These tracts also are reprinted in the other modern languages of
+Europe, and are becoming a part of family literature.
+
+The object had in view by those in this movement is, the general
+disbandment of standing armies and warlike establishments, and the
+arrangement, in their place, of some settled system of national
+arbitration. They suggest the organization of some tribunal of
+international law, which shall correspond to the position of the Supreme
+Court of the United States with reference to the several states. The
+fact that the several states of our Union, though each a distinct
+sovereignty, yet agree in this arrangement, is held up as an instance of
+its practicability. These ideas are not to be considered entirely
+chimerical, if we reflect that commerce and trade are as essentially
+opposed to war as is Christianity. War is the death of commerce,
+manufactures, agriculture, and the fine arts. Its evil results are
+always certain and definite, its good results scattered and accidental.
+The whole current of modern society is as much against war as against
+slavery; and the time must certainly come when some more rational and
+humane mode of resolving national difficulties will prevail.
+
+When we ask these reformers how people are to be freed from the yoke of
+despotism without war, they answer, "By the diffusion of ideas among the
+masses--by teaching the bayonets to think." They say, "If we convince
+every individual soldier of a despot's army that war is ruinous,
+immoral, and unchristian, we take the instrument out of the tyrant's
+hand. If each individual man would refuse to rob and murder for the
+Emperor of Austria, and the Emperor of Russia, where would be their
+power to hold Hungary? What gave power to the masses in the French
+revolution, but that the army, pervaded by new ideas, refused any
+longer to keep the people down?"
+
+These views are daily gaining strength in England. They are supported by
+the whole body of the Quakers, who maintain them with that degree of
+inflexible perseverance and never-dying activity which have rendered the
+benevolent actions of that body so efficient. The object that they are
+aiming at is one most certain to be accomplished, infallible as the
+prediction that swords are to be beaten into ploughshares, and spears
+into pruning-hooks, and that nations shall learn war no more.
+
+This movement, small and despised in its origin, has gained strength
+from year to year, and now has an effect on the public opinion of
+England which is quite perceptible.
+
+We spent the evening in talking over these things, and also various
+topics relating to the antislavery movement. Mr. Sturge was very
+confident that something more was to be done than had ever been done
+yet, by combinations for the encouragement of free, in the place of
+slave-grown, produce; a question which has, ever since the days of
+Clarkson, more or less deeply occupied the minds of abolitionists in
+England.
+
+I should say that Mr. Sturge in his family has for many years
+conscientiously forborne the use of any article produced by slave labor.
+I could scarcely believe it possible that there could be such an
+abundance and variety of all that is comfortable and desirable in the
+various departments of household living within these limits. Mr. Sturge
+presents the subject with very great force, the more so from the
+consistency of his example.
+
+From what I have since observed, as well as from what they said, I
+should imagine that the Quakers generally pursue this course of entire
+separation from all connection with slavery, even in the disuse of its
+products. The subject of the disuse of slave-grown produce has obtained
+currency in the same sphere in which Elihu Burritt operates, and has
+excited the attention of the Olive Leaf Circles. Its prospects are not
+so weak as on first view might be imagined, if we consider that Great
+Britain has large tracts of cotton-growing land at her disposal in
+India. It has been calculated that, were suitable railroads and
+arrangements for transportation provided for India, cotton could be
+raised in that empire sufficient for the whole wants of England, at a
+rate much cheaper than it can be imported from America. Not only so, but
+they could then afford to furnish cotton cheaper at Lowell than the same
+article could be procured from the Southern States.
+
+It is consolatory to know that a set of men have undertaken this work
+whose perseverance in any thing once begun has never been daunted. Slave
+labor is becoming every year more expensive in America. The wide market
+which has been opened for it has raised it to such an extravagant price
+as makes the stocking of a plantation almost ruinous. If England enters
+the race with free labor, which has none of these expenses, and none of
+the risk, she will be sure to succeed. All the forces of nature go with
+free labor; and all the forces of nature resist slave labor. The stars
+in their courses fight against it; and it cannot but be that ere long
+some way will be found to bring these two forces to a decisive issue.
+
+Mr. Sturge seemed exceedingly anxious that the American states should
+adopt the theory of immediate, and not gradual, emancipation. I told him
+the great difficulty was to persuade them to think of any emancipation
+at all; that the present disposition was to treat slavery as the pillar
+and ground of the truth, the ark of religion, the summary of morals,
+and the only true millennial form of modern society.
+
+He gave me, however, a little account of their antislavery struggles in
+England, and said, what was well worthy of note, that they made no
+apparent progress in affecting public opinion until they firmly
+advocated the right of every innocent being to immediate and complete
+freedom, without any conditions. He said that a woman is fairly entitled
+to the credit of this suggestion. Elizabeth Heyrick of Leicester, a
+member of the society of Friends, published a pamphlet entitled
+Immediate, not Gradual Emancipation. This little pamphlet contains much
+good sense; and, being put forth at a time when men were really anxious
+to know the truth, produced a powerful impression.
+
+She remarked, very sensibly, that the difficulty had arisen from
+indistinct ideas in respect to what is implied in emancipation. She went
+on to show that emancipation did not imply freedom from government and
+restraint; that it properly brought a slave under the control of the
+law, instead of that of an individual; and that it was possible so to
+apply law as perfectly to control the emancipated. This is an idea which
+seems simple enough when pointed out; but men often stumble a long while
+before they discover what is most obvious.
+
+The next day was Sunday; and, in order to preserve our incognito, and
+secure an uninterrupted rest, free from conversation and excitement, we
+were obliged to deprive ourselves of the pleasure of hearing our friend
+Rev. John Angell James, which we had much desired to do.
+
+It was a warm, pleasant day, and we spent much of our time in a
+beautiful arbor constructed in a retired place in the garden, where the
+trees and shrubbery were so arranged as to make a most charming retreat.
+
+The grounds of Mr. Sturge are very near to those of his brother--only a
+narrow road interposing between them. They have contrived to make them
+one by building under this road a subterranean passage, so that the two
+families can pass and repass into each other's grounds in perfect
+privacy.
+
+These English gardens delight me much; they unite variety, quaintness,
+and an imitation of the wildness of nature with the utmost care and
+cultivation. I was particularly pleased with the rockwork, which at
+times formed the walls of certain walks, the hollows and interstices of
+which were filled with every variety of creeping plants. Mr. Sturge told
+me that the substance of which these rockeries are made is sold
+expressly for the purpose.
+
+On one side of the grounds was an old-fashioned cottage, which one of my
+friends informed me Mr. Sturge formerly kept fitted up as a water cure
+hospital, for those whose means did not allow them to go to larger
+establishments. The plan was afterwards abandoned. One must see that
+such an enterprise would have many practical difficulties.
+
+At noon we dined in the house of the other brother, Mr. Edmund Sturge.
+Here I noticed a full-length engraving of Joseph Sturge. He is
+represented as standing with his hand placed protectingly on the head of
+a black child.
+
+We enjoyed our quiet season with these two families exceedingly. We
+seemed to feel ourselves in an atmosphere where all was peace and good
+will to man. The little children, after dinner, took us through the
+walks, to show us their beautiful rabbits and other pets. Every thing
+seemed in order, peaceable and quiet. Towards evening we went back
+through the arched passage to the other house again. My Sunday here has
+always seemed to me a pleasant kind of pastoral, much like the communion
+of Christian and Faithful with the shepherds on the Delectable
+Mountains.
+
+What is remarkable of all these Friends is, that, although they have
+been called, in the prosecution of philanthropic enterprises, to
+encounter so much opposition, and see so much of the unfavorable side of
+human nature, they are so habitually free from any tinge of
+uncharitableness or evil speaking in their statements with regard to the
+character and motives of others. There is also an habitual avoidance of
+all exaggerated forms of statement, a sobriety of diction, which, united
+with great affectionateness of manner, inspires the warmest confidence.
+
+C. had been, with Mr. Sturge, during the afternoon, to a meeting of the
+Friends, and heard a discourse from Sibyl Jones, one of the most popular
+of their female preachers. Sibyl is a native of the town of Brunswick,
+in the State of Maine. She and her husband, being both preachers, have
+travelled extensively in the prosecution of various philanthropic and
+religious enterprises.
+
+In the evening Mr. Sturge said that she had expressed a desire to see
+me. Accordingly I went with him to call upon her, and found her in the
+family of two aged Friends, surrounded by a circle of the same
+denomination. She is a woman of great delicacy of appearance, betokening
+very frail health. I am told that she is most of her time in a state of
+extreme suffering from neuralgic complaints. There was a mingled
+expression of enthusiasm and tenderness in her face which was very
+interesting. She had had, according to the language of her sect, a
+concern upon her mind for me.
+
+To my mind there is something peculiarly interesting about that
+primitive simplicity and frankness with which the members of this body
+express themselves. She desired to caution me against the temptations of
+too much flattery and applause, and against the worldliness which might
+beset me in London. Her manner of addressing me was like one who is
+commissioned with a message which must be spoken with plainness and
+sincerity. After this the whole circle kneeled, and she offered prayer.
+I was somewhat painfully impressed with her evident fragility of body,
+compared with the enthusiastic workings of her mind.
+
+In the course of the conversation she inquired if I was going to
+Ireland. I told her, yes, that was my intention. She begged that I would
+visit the western coast, adding, with great feeling, "It was the
+miseries which I saw there which have brought my health to the state it
+is." She had travelled extensively in the Southern States, and had, in
+private conversation, been able very fully to bear her witness against
+slavery, and had never been heard with unkindness.
+
+The whole incident afforded me matter for reflection. The calling of
+women to distinct religious vocations, it appears to me, was a part of
+primitive Christianity; has been one of the most efficient elements of
+power in the Romish church; obtained among the Methodists in England;
+and has, in all these cases, been productive of great good. The
+deaconesses whom the apostle mentions with honor in his epistle, Madame
+Guyon in the Romish church, Mrs. Fletcher, Elizabeth Fry, are instances
+which show how much may be done for mankind by women who feel themselves
+impelled to a special religious vocation.
+
+The Bible, which always favors liberal development, countenances this
+idea, by the instances of Deborah, Anna the prophetess, and by allusions
+in the New Testament, which plainly show that the prophetic gift
+descended upon women. St. Peter, quoting from the prophetic writings,
+says, "Upon your sons and upon your daughters I will pour out my spirit,
+and they shall prophesy." And St. Paul alludes to women praying and
+prophesying in the public assemblies of the Christians, and only enjoins
+that it should be done with becoming attention to the established usages
+of female delicacy. The example of the Quakers is a sufficient proof
+that acting upon this idea does not produce discord and domestic
+disorder. No class of people are more remarkable for quietness and
+propriety of deportment, and for household order and domestic
+excellence. By the admission of this liberty, the world is now and then
+gifted with a woman like Elizabeth Fry, while the family state loses
+none of its security and sacredness. No one in our day can charge the
+ladies of the Quaker sect with boldness or indecorum; and they have
+demonstrated that even public teaching, when performed under the
+influence of an overpowering devotional spirit, does not interfere with
+feminine propriety and modesty.
+
+The fact is, that the number of women to whom this vocation is given
+will always be comparatively few: they are, and generally will be,
+exceptions; and the majority of the religious world, ancient and modern,
+has decided that these exceptions are to be treated with reverence.
+
+The next morning, as we were sitting down to breakfast, our friends of
+the other house sent in to me a plate of the largest, finest
+strawberries I have ever seen, which, considering that it was only the
+latter part of April, seemed to me quite an astonishing luxury.
+
+On the morning before we left we had agreed to meet a circle of friends
+from Birmingham, consisting of the Abolition Society there, which is of
+long standing, extending back in its memories to the very commencement
+of the agitation under Clarkson and Wilberforce. It was a pleasant
+morning, the 1st of May. The windows of the parlor were opened to the
+ground; and the company invited filled not only the room, but stood in a
+crowd on the grass around the window. Among the peaceable company
+present was an admiral in the navy, a fine, cheerful old gentleman, who
+entered with hearty interest into the scene.
+
+The lady secretary of the society read a neatly-written address, full of
+kind feeling and Christian sentiment. Joseph Sturge made a few sensible
+and practical remarks on the present aspects of the antislavery cause in
+the world, and the most practical mode of assisting it among English
+Christians. He dwelt particularly on the encouragement of free labor.
+The Rev. John Angell James followed with some extremely kind and
+interesting remarks, and Mr. S. replied. As we were intending to return
+to this city to make a longer visit, we felt that this interview was but
+a glimpse of friends whom we hoped to know more perfectly hereafter.
+
+A throng of friends accompanied us to the depot. We had the pleasure of
+the company of Elihu Burritt, and enjoyed a delightful run to London,
+where we arrived towards evening.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+
+DEAR SISTER:--
+
+At the station house in London, we found Rev. Messrs. Binney and Sherman
+waiting for us with carriages. C. went with Mr. Sherman, and Mr. S. and
+I soon found ourselves in a charming retreat called Rose Cottage, in
+Walworth, about which I will tell you more anon. Mrs. B. received us
+with every attention which the most thoughtful hospitality could
+suggest.
+
+S. and W., who had gone on before us, and taken lodgings very near, were
+there waiting to receive us. One of the first things S. said to me,
+after we got into our room, was, "O, H----, we are so glad you have
+come, for we are all going to the lord mayor's dinner to night, and you
+are invited."
+
+"What!" said I, "the lord mayor of London, that I used to read about in
+Whittington and his Cat?" And immediately there came to my ears the
+sound of the old chime, which made so powerful an impression on my
+childish memory, wherein all the bells of London were represented as
+tolling.
+
+  "Turn again, Whittington,
+   Thrice lord mayor of London."
+
+It is curious what an influence these old rhymes have on our
+associations.
+
+S. went on to tell me that the party was the annual dinner given to the
+judges of England by the lord mayor, and that there we should see the
+whole English bar, and hosts of _distingues_ besides. So, though I was
+tired, I hurried to dress in all the glee of meeting an adventure, as
+Mr. and Mrs. B. and the rest of the party were ready. Crack went the
+whip, round went the wheels, and away we drove.
+
+We alighted at the Mansion House, and entered a large illuminated hall,
+supported by pillars. Chandeliers were glittering, servants with
+powdered heads and gold lace coats were hurrying to and fro in every
+direction, receiving company and announcing names. Do you want to know
+how announcing is done? Well, suppose a staircase, a hall, and two or
+three corridors, intervening between you and the drawing room. At all
+convenient distances on this route are stationed these grave,
+powdered-headed gentlemen, with their embroidered coats. You walk up to
+the first one, and tell him confidentially that you are Miss Smith. He
+calls to the man on the first landing, "Miss Smith." The man on the
+landing says to the man in the corridor, "Miss Smith." The man in the
+corridor shouts to the man at the drawing room door, "Miss Smith." And
+thus, following the sound of your name, you hear it for the last time
+shouted aloud, just before you enter the room.
+
+We found a considerable throng, and I was glad to accept a seat which
+was offered me in the agreeable vicinity of the lady mayoress, so that I
+might see what would be interesting to me of the ceremonial.
+
+The titles in law here, as in every thing else, are manifold; and the
+powdered-headed gentleman at the door pronounced them with an evident
+relish, which was joyous to hear--Mr. Attorney, Mr. Solicitor, and Mr.
+Sergeant; Lord Chief Baron, Lord Chief Justice, and Lord this, and Lord
+that, and Lord the other, more than I could possibly remember, as in
+they came dressed in black, with smallclothes and silk stockings, with
+swords by their sides, and little cocked hats under their arms, bowing
+gracefully before the lady mayoress.
+
+I saw no big wigs, but some wore the hair tied behind with a small black
+silk bag attached to it. Some of the principal men were dressed in black
+velvet, which became them finely. Some had broad shirt frills of point
+or Mechlin lace, with wide ruffles of the same round their wrists.
+
+Poor C., barbarian that he was, and utterly unaware of the priceless
+gentility of the thing, said to me, _sotto voce_, "How can men wear such
+dirty stuff? Why don't they wash it?" I expounded to him what an
+ignorant sinner he was, and that the dirt of ages was one of the surest
+indications of value. Wash point lace! it would be as bad as cleaning up
+the antiquary's study.
+
+The ladies were in full dress, which here in England means always a
+dress which exposes the neck and shoulders. This requirement seems to be
+universal, since ladies of all ages conform to it. It may, perhaps,
+account for this custom, to say that the bust of an English lady is
+seldom otherwise than fine, and develops a full outline at what we
+should call quite an advanced period of life.
+
+A very dignified gentleman, dressed in black velvet, with a fine head,
+made his way through the throng, and sat down by me, introducing himself
+as Lord Chief Baron Pollock. He told me he had just been reading the
+legal part of the Key to Uncle Tom's Cabin, and remarked especially on
+the opinion of Judge Ruffin, in the case of State _v._ Mann, as having
+made a deep impression on his mind. Of the character of the decision,
+considered as a legal and literary document, he spoke in terms of high
+admiration; said that nothing had ever given him so clear a view of the
+essential nature of slavery. We found that this document had produced
+the same impression on the minds of several others present. Mr. S. said
+that one or two distinguished legal gentlemen mentioned it to him in
+similar terms. The talent and force displayed in it, as well as the high
+spirit and scorn of dissimulation, appear to have created a strong
+interest in its author. It always seemed to me that there was a certain
+severe strength and grandeur about it which approached to the heroic.
+One or two said that they were glad such a man had retired from the
+practice of such a system of law.
+
+But there was scarce a moment for conversation amid the whirl and eddy
+of so many presentations. Before the company had all assembled, the room
+was a perfect jam of legal and literary notabilities. The dinner was
+announced between nine and ten o'clock. We were conducted into a
+splendid hall, where the tables were laid. Four long tables were set
+parallel with the length of the hall, and one on a raised platform
+across the upper end. In the midst of this sat the lord mayor and lady
+mayoress, on their right hand the judges, on their left the American
+minister, with other distinguished guests. I sat by a most agreeable and
+interesting young lady, who seemed to take pleasure in enlightening me
+on all those matters about which a stranger would naturally be
+inquisitive.
+
+Directly opposite me was Mr. Dickens, whom I now beheld for the first
+time, and was surprised to see looking so young. Mr. Justice Talfourd,
+known as the author of Ion, was also there with his lady. She had a
+beautiful antique cast of head.
+
+The lord mayor was simply dressed in black, without any other adornment
+than a massive gold chain.
+
+I asked the lady if he had not robes of state. She replied, yes; but
+they were very heavy and cumbersome, and that he never wore them when he
+could, with any propriety, avoid it. It seems to me that this matter of
+outward parade and state is gradually losing its hold even here in
+England. As society becomes enlightened, men care less and less for mere
+shows, and are apt to neglect those outward forms which have neither
+beauty nor convenience on their side, such as judges' wigs and lord
+mayors' robes.
+
+As a general thing the company were more plainly dressed than I had
+expected. I am really glad that there is a movement being made to carry
+the doctrine of plain dress into our diplomatic representation. Even
+older nations are becoming tired of mere shows; and, certainly, the
+representatives of a republic ought not to begin to put on the finery
+which monarchies are beginning to cast off.
+
+The present lord mayor is a member of the House of Commons--a most
+liberal-minded man; very simple, but pleasing in his appearance and
+address; one who seems to think more of essentials than of show.
+
+He is a dissenter, being a member of Rev. Mr. Binney's church, a man
+warmly interested in the promotion of Sabbath schools, and every worthy
+and benevolent object.
+
+The ceremonies of the dinner were long and weary, and, I thought, seemed
+to be more fully entered into by a flourishing official, who stood at
+the mayor's back, than by any other person present.
+
+The business of toast-drinking is reduced to the nicest system. A
+regular official, called a toast master, stood behind the lord mayor
+with a paper, from which he read the toasts in their order. Every one,
+according to his several rank, pretensions, and station, must be toasted
+in his gradation; and every person toasted must have his name announced
+by the official,--the larger dignitaries being proposed alone in their
+glory, while the smaller fry are read out by the dozen,--and to each
+toast somebody must get up and make a speech.
+
+First, after the usual loyal toasts, the lord mayor proposed the health
+of the American minister, expressing himself in the warmest terms of
+friendship towards our country; to which Mr. Ingersoll responded very
+handsomely. Among the speakers I was particularly pleased with Lord
+Chief Baron Pollock, who, in the absence of Lord Chief Justice Campbell,
+was toasted as the highest representative of the legal profession. He
+spoke with great dignity, simplicity, and courtesy, taking occasion to
+pay very flattering compliments to the American legal profession,
+speaking particularly of Judge Story. The compliment gave me great
+pleasure, because it seemed a just and noble-minded appreciation, and
+not a mere civil fiction. We are always better pleased with appreciation
+than flattery, though perhaps he strained a point when he said, "Our
+brethren on the other side of the Atlantic, with whom we are now
+exchanging legal authorities, I fear largely surpass us in the
+production of philosophic and comprehensive forms."
+
+Speaking of the two countries he said, "God forbid that, with a common
+language, with common laws which we are materially improving for the
+benefit of mankind, with one common literature, with one common
+religion, and above all with one common love of liberty, God forbid that
+any feeling should arise between the two countries but the desire to
+carry through the world these advantages."
+
+Mr. Justice Talfourd proposed the literature of our two countries, under
+the head of "Anglo-Saxon Literature." He made allusion to the author of
+Uncle Tom's Cabin and Mr. Dickens, speaking of both as having employed
+fiction as a means of awakening the attention of the respective
+countries to the condition of the oppressed and suffering classes. Mr.
+Talfourd appears to be in the prime of life, of a robust and somewhat
+florid habit. He is universally beloved for his nobleness of soul and
+generous interest in all that tends to promote the welfare of humanity,
+no less than for his classical and scholarly attainments.
+
+Mr. Dickens replied to this toast in a graceful and playful strain. In
+the former part of the evening, in reply to a toast on the chancery
+department, Vice-Chancellor Wood, who spoke in the absence of the lord
+chancellor, made a sort of defence of the Court of Chancery, not
+distinctly alluding to Bleak House, but evidently not without reference
+to it. The amount of what he said was, that the court had received a
+great many more hard opinions than it merited; that they had been
+parsimoniously obliged to perform a great amount of business by a very
+inadequate number of judges; but that more recently the number of judges
+had been increased to seven, and there was reason to hope that all
+business brought before it would now be performed without unnecessary
+delay.
+
+In the conclusion of Mr. Dickens's speech he alluded playfully to this
+item of intelligence; said he was exceedingly happy to hear it, as he
+trusted now that a suit, in which he was greatly interested, would
+speedily come to an end. I heard a little by conversation between Mr.
+Dickens and a gentleman of the bar, who sat opposite me, in which the
+latter seemed to be reiterating the same assertions, and I understood
+him to say, that a case not extraordinarily complicated might be got
+through with in three months. Mr. Dickens said he was very happy to hear
+it; but I fancied there was a little shade of incredulity in his manner;
+however, the incident showed one thing, that is, that the chancery were
+not insensible to the representations of Dickens; but the whole tone of
+the thing was quite good-natured and agreeable. In this respect, I must
+say I think the English are quite remarkable. Every thing here meets the
+very freest handling; nothing is too sacred to be publicly shown up; but
+those who are exhibited appear to have too much good sense to recognize
+the force of the picture by getting angry. Mr. Dickens has gone on
+unmercifully exposing all sorts of weak places in the English fabric,
+public and private, yet nobody cries out upon him as the slanderer of
+his country. He serves up Lord Dedlocks to his heart's content, yet none
+of the nobility make wry faces about it; nobody is in a hurry to
+proclaim that he has recognized the picture, by getting into a passion
+at it. The contrast between the people of England and America, in this
+respect, is rather unfavorable to us, because they are by profession
+conservative, and we by profession radical.
+
+For us to be annoyed when any of our institutions are commented upon, is
+in the highest degree absurd; it would do well enough for Naples, but it
+does not do for America.
+
+There were some curious old customs observed at this dinner which
+interested me as peculiar. About the middle of the feast, the official
+who performed all the announcing made the declaration that the lord
+mayor and lady mayoress would pledge the guests in a loving cup. They
+then rose, and the official presented them with a massive gold cup, full
+of wine, in which they pledged the guests. It then passed down the
+table, and the guests rose, two and two, each tasting and presenting to
+the other. My fair informant told me that this was a custom which had
+come down from the most ancient time.
+
+The banquet was enlivened at intervals by songs from professional
+singers, hired for the occasion. After the banquet was over, massive
+gold basins, filled with rose water, slid along down the table, into
+which the guests dipped their napkins--an improvement, I suppose, on the
+doctrine of finger glasses, or perhaps the primeval form of the custom.
+
+We rose from table between eleven and twelve o'clock--that is, we
+ladies--and went into the drawing room, where I was presented to Mrs.
+Dickens and several other ladies. Mrs. Dickens is a good specimen of a
+truly English woman; tall, large, and well developed, with fine, healthy
+color, and an air of frankness, cheerfulness, and reliability. A friend
+whispered to me that she was as observing, and fond of humor, as her
+husband.
+
+After a while the gentlemen came back to the drawing room, and I had a
+few moments of very pleasant, friendly conversation with Mr. Dickens.
+They are both people that one could not know a little of without
+desiring to know more.
+
+I had some conversation with the lady mayoress. She said she had been
+invited to meet me at Stafford House on Saturday, but should be unable
+to attend, as she had called a meeting on the same day of the city
+ladies, for considering the condition of milliners and dressmakers, and
+to form a society for their relief to act in conjunction with that of
+the west end.
+
+After a little we began to talk of separating; the lord mayor to take
+his seat in the House of Commons, and the rest of the party to any other
+engagement that might be upon their list.
+
+"Come, let us go to the House of Commons," said one of my friends, "and
+make a night of it." "With all my heart," replied I, "if I only had
+another body to go into to-morrow."
+
+What a convenience in sight-seeing it would be if one could have a relay
+of bodies, as of clothes, and go from one into the other. But we, not
+used to the London style of turning night into day, are full weary
+already; so, good night.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+
+ROSE COTTAGE, WALWORTH, LONDON, May 2.
+
+MY DEAR:--
+
+This morning Mrs. Follen called, and we had quite a long chat together.
+We are separated by the whole city. She lives at West End, while I am
+down here in Walworth, which is one of the postscripts of London; for
+London has as many postscripts as a lady's letter--little suburban
+villages which have been overtaken by the growth, of the city, and
+embraced in its arms. I like them a great deal better than the city, for
+my part.
+
+Here now, for instance, at Walworth, I can look out at a window and see
+a nice green meadow with sheep and lambs feeding in it, which is some
+relief in this smutty old place. London is as smutty as Pittsburg or
+Wheeling. It takes a good hour's steady riding to get from here to West
+End; so that my American friends, of the newspapers, who are afraid I
+shall be corrupted by aristocratic associations, will see that I am at
+safe distance.
+
+This evening we are appointed to dine with the Earl of Carlisle. There
+is to be no company but his own family circle, for he, with great
+consideration, said in his note that he thought a little quiet would be
+the best thing he could offer. Lord Carlisle is a great friend to
+America; and so is his sister, the Duchess of Sutherland. He is the only
+English traveller who ever wrote notes on our country in a real spirit
+of appreciation. While the Halls, and Trollopes, and all the rest could
+see nothing but our breaking eggs on the wrong end, or such matters, he
+discerned and interpreted those points wherein lies the real strength of
+our growing country. His notes on America were not very extended, being
+only sketches delivered as a lyceum lecture some years after his return.
+It was the spirit and quality, rather than quantity, of the thing that
+was noticeable.
+
+I observe that American newspapers are sneering about his preface to
+Uncle Tom's Cabin; but they ought at least to remember that his
+sentiments with regard to slavery are no sudden freak. In the first
+place, he comes of a family that has always been on the side of liberal
+and progressive principles. He himself has been a leader of reforms on
+the popular side. It was a temporary defeat, when run as an
+anti-corn-law candidate, which gave him leisure to travel in America.
+Afterwards he had the satisfaction to be triumphantly returned for that
+district, and to see the measure he had advocated fully successful.
+
+While Lord Carlisle was in America he never disguised those antislavery
+sentiments which formed a part of his political and religious creed as
+an Englishman, and as the heir of a house always true to progress. Many
+cultivated English people have shrunk from acknowledging abolitionists
+in Boston, where the ostracism of fashion and wealth has been enforced
+against them. Lord Carlisle, though moving in the highest circle,
+honestly and openly expressed his respect for them on all occasions. He
+attended the Boston antislavery fair, which at that time was quite a
+decided step. Nor did he even in any part of our country disguise his
+convictions. There is, therefore, propriety and consistency in the
+course he has taken now. It would seem that a warm interest in
+questions of a public nature has always distinguished the ladies of this
+family. The Duchess of Sutherland's mother is daughter of the celebrated
+Duchess of Devonshire, who, in her day, employed on the liberal side in
+politics all the power of genius, wit, beauty, and rank. It was to the
+electioneering talents of herself and her sister, the Lady Duncannon,
+that Fox, at one crisis, owed his election. We Americans should remember
+that it was this party who advocated our cause during our revolutionary
+struggle. Fox and his associates pleaded for us with much the same
+arguments, and with the same earnestness and warmth, that American
+abolitionists now plead for the slaves. They stood against all the power
+of the king and cabinet, as the abolitionists in America in 1850 stood
+against president and cabinet.
+
+The Duchess of Devonshire was a woman of real noble impulses and
+generous emotions, and had a true sympathy for what is free and heroic.
+Coleridge has some fine lines addressed to her,--called forth by a
+sonnet which she composed, while in Switzerland, on William Tell's
+Chapel,--which begin,--
+
+  "O lady, nursed in pomp and pleasure,
+  Where learn'dst thou that heroic measure?"
+
+The Duchess of Sutherland, in our times, has been known to be no less
+warmly interested on the liberal side. So great was her influence held
+to be, that upon a certain occasion when a tory cabinet was to be
+formed, a distinguished minister is reported to have said to the queen
+that he could not hope to succeed in his administration while such a
+decided influence as that of the Duchess of Sutherland stood at the
+head of her majesty's household. The queen's spirited refusal to
+surrender her favorite attendant attracted, at the time, universal
+admiration.
+
+Like her brother Lord Carlisle, the Duchess of Sutherland has always
+professed those sentiments with regard to slavery which are the glory of
+the English nation, and which are held with more particular zeal by
+those families who are favorable to the progress of liberal ideas.
+
+At about seven o'clock we took our carriage to go to the Earl of
+Carlisle's, the dinner hour being here somewhere between eight and nine.
+As we rode on through the usual steady drizzling rain, from street to
+street and square to square, crossing Waterloo Bridge, with its avenue
+of lamps faintly visible in the seethy mist, plunging through the heart
+of the city, we began to realize something of the immense extent of
+London.
+
+Altogether the most striking objects that you pass, as you ride in the
+evening thus, are the gin shops, flaming and flaring from the most
+conspicuous positions, with plate-glass windows and dazzling lights,
+thronged with men, and women, and children, drinking destruction.
+Mothers go there with babies in their arms, and take what turns the
+mother's milk to poison. Husbands go there, and spend the money that
+their children want for bread, and multitudes of boys and girls of the
+age of my own. In Paris and other European cities, at least the great
+fisher of souls baits with something attractive, but in these gin shops
+men bite at the bare, barbed hook. There are no garlands, no dancing, no
+music, no theatricals, no pretence of social exhilaration, nothing but
+hogsheads of spirits, and people going in to drink. The number of them
+that I passed seemed to me absolutely appalling.
+
+After long driving we found ourselves coming into the precincts of the
+West End, and began to feel an indefinite sense that we were approaching
+something very grand, though I cannot say that we saw much but heavy,
+smoky-walled buildings, washed by the rain. At length we stopped in
+Grosvenor Place, and alighted.
+
+We were shown into an anteroom adjoining the entrance hall, and from
+that into an adjacent apartment, where we met Lord Carlisle. The room
+had a pleasant, social air, warmed and enlivened by the blaze of a coal
+fire and wax candles.
+
+We had never, any of us, met Lord Carlisle before; but the
+considerateness and cordiality of our reception obviated whatever
+embarrassment there might have been in this circumstance. In a few
+moments after we were all seated the servant announced the Duchess of
+Sutherland, and Lord Carlisle presented me. She is tall and stately,
+with a decided fulness of outline, and a most noble bearing. Her fair
+complexion, blond hair, and full lips speak of Saxon blood. In her early
+youth she might have been a Rowena. I thought of the lines of
+Wordsworth:--
+
+  "A perfect woman, nobly planned,
+  To warn, to comfort, to command."
+
+Her manners have a peculiar warmth and cordiality. One sees people now
+and then who seem to _radiate_ kindness and vitality, and to have a
+faculty of inspiring perfect confidence in a moment. There are no airs
+of grandeur, no patronizing ways; but a genuine sincerity and kindliness
+that seem to come from a deep fountain within.
+
+The engraving by Winterhalter, which has been somewhat familiar in
+America, is as just a representation of her air and bearing as could be
+given.
+
+After this we were presented to the various members of the Howard
+family, which is a very numerous one. Among them were Lady Dover, Lady
+Lascelles, and Lady Labouchere, sisters of the duchess. The Earl of
+Burlington, who is the heir of the Duke of Devonshire, was also present.
+The Duke of Devonshire is the uncle of Lord Carlisle.
+
+The only person present not of the family connection was my quondam
+correspondent in America, Arthur Helps. Somehow or other I had formed
+the impression from his writings that he was a venerable sage of very
+advanced years, who contemplated life as an aged hermit, from the door
+of his cell. Conceive my surprise to find a genial young gentleman of
+about twenty-five, who looked as if he might enjoy a joke as well as
+another man.
+
+At dinner I found myself between him and Lord Carlisle, and perceiving,
+perhaps, that the nature of my reflections was of rather an amusing
+order, he asked me confidentially if I did not like fun, to which I
+assented with fervor. I like that little homely word _fun_, though I
+understand the dictionary says what it represents is vulgar; but I think
+it has a good, hearty, Saxon sound, and I like Saxon, better than Latin
+or French either.
+
+When the servant offered me wine Lord Carlisle asked me if our party
+were all _teetotallers_, and I said yes; that in America all clergymen
+were teetotallers, of course.
+
+After the ladies left the table the conversation turned on the Maine
+law, which seems to be considered over here as a phenomenon, in
+legislation, and many of the gentlemen, present inquired about it with
+great curiosity.
+
+When we went into the drawing room I was presented to the venerable
+Countess of Carlisle, the earl's mother; a lady universally beloved and
+revered, not less for superior traits of mind than for great loveliness
+and benevolence of character. She received us with the utmost kindness;
+kindness evidently genuine and real.
+
+The walls of the drawing room were beautifully adorned with works of art
+by the best masters. There was a Rembrandt hanging over the fireplace,
+which showed finely by the evening light. It was simply the portrait of
+a man with a broad, Flemish hat. There were one or two pictures, also,
+by Cuyp. I should think he must have studied in America, so perfectly
+does he represent the golden, hazy atmosphere of our Indian summer.
+
+One of the ladies showed me a snuff box on which was a picture of Lady
+Carlisle's mother, the celebrated Duchess of Devonshire, taken when she
+was quite a little girl; a round, happy face, showing great vivacity and
+genius. On another box was an exquisitely beautiful miniature of a
+relative of the family.
+
+After the gentlemen rejoined us came in the Duke and Duchess of Argyle,
+and Lord and Lady Blantyre. These ladies are the daughters of the
+Duchess of Sutherland. The Duchess of Argyle is of a slight and
+fairy-like figure, with flaxen hair and blue eyes, answering well enough
+to the description of Annot Lyle, in the Legend of Montrose. Lady
+Blantyre was somewhat taller, of fuller figure, with very brilliant
+bloom. Lord Blantyre is of the Stuart blood, a tall and slender young
+man, with very graceful manners.
+
+As to the Duke of Argyle, we found that the picture drawn of him by his
+countrymen in Scotland was every way correct. Though slight of figure,
+with fair complexion and blue eyes, his whole appearance is indicative
+of energy and vivacity. His talents and efficiency have made him a
+member of the British cabinet at a much earlier age than is usual; and
+he has distinguished himself not only in political life, but as a
+writer, having given to the world a work on Presbyterianism, embracing
+an analysis of the ecclesiastical history of Scotland since the
+reformation, which is spoken of as written with great ability, in a most
+candid and liberal spirit.
+
+The company soon formed themselves into little groups in different parts
+of the room. The Duchess of Sutherland, Lord Carlisle, and the Duke and
+Duchess of Argyle formed a circle, and turned the conversation upon
+American topics. The Duke of Argyle made many inquiries about our
+distinguished men; particularly of Emerson, Longfellow, and Hawthorne;
+also of Prescott, who appears to be a general favorite here. I felt at
+the moment that we never value our literary men so much as when placed
+in a circle of intelligent foreigners; it is particularly so with
+Americans, because we have nothing but our men and women to glory in--no
+court, no nobles, no castles, no cathedrals; except we produce
+distinguished specimens of humanity, we are nothing.
+
+The quietness of this evening circle, the charm of its kind hospitality,
+the evident air of sincerity and good will which pervaded every thing,
+made the evening pass most delightfully to me. I had never felt myself
+more at home even among the Quakers. Such a visit is a true rest and
+refreshment, a thousand times better than the most brilliant and
+glittering entertainment.
+
+At eleven o'clock, however, the carriage called, for our evening was
+drawing to its close; that of our friends, I suppose, was but just
+commencing, as London's liveliest hours are by gaslight, but we cannot
+learn the art of turning night into day.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+
+May 4.
+
+MY DEAR S.:--
+
+This morning I felt too tired to go out any where; but Mr. and Mrs.
+Binney persuaded me to go just a little while in to the meeting of the
+Bible Society, for you must know that this is anniversary week, and so,
+besides the usual rush, and roar, and whirl of London, there is the
+confluence of all the religious forces in Exeter Hall. I told Mrs. B.
+that I was worn out, and did not think I could sit through a single
+speech; but she tempted me by a promise that I should withdraw at any
+moment. We had a nice little snug gallery near one of the doors, where I
+could see all over the house, and make a quick retreat in case of need.
+
+In one point English ladies certainly do carry practical industry
+farther than I ever saw it in America. Every body knows that an
+anniversary meeting is something of a siege, and I observed many good
+ladies below had made regular provision therefor, by bringing knitting
+work, sewing, crochet, or embroidery. I thought it was an improvement,
+and mean to recommend it when I get home. I am sure many of our Marthas
+in America will be very grateful for the custom.
+
+The Earl of Shaftesbury was in the chair, and I saw him now for the
+first time. He is quite a tall man, of slender figure, with a long and
+narrow face, dark hazel eyes, and very thick, auburn hair. His bearing
+was dignified and appropriate to his position. People here are somewhat
+amused by the vivacity with which American papers are exhorting Lord
+Shaftesbury to look into the factory system, and to explore the
+collieries, and in general to take care of the suffering lower classes,
+as if he had been doing any thing else for these twenty years past. To
+people who know how he has worked against wind and tide, in the face of
+opposition and obloquy, and how all the dreadful statistics that they
+quote against him were brought out expressly by inquiries set on foot
+and prosecuted by him, and how these same statistics have been by him
+reiterated in the ears of successive houses of Parliament till all these
+abuses have been reformed, as far as the most stringent and minute
+legislation can reform, them,--it is quite amusing to hear him exhorted
+to consider the situation of the working classes. One reason for this,
+perhaps, is that provoking facility in changing names which is incident
+to the English peerage. During the time that most of the researches and
+speeches on the factory system and collieries were made, the Earl of
+Shaftesbury was in the House of Commons, with the title of Lord Ashley,
+and it was not till the death of his father that he entered the House of
+Peers as Lord Shaftesbury. The contrast which a very staid religious
+paper in America has drawn between Lord Ashley and Lord Shaftesbury does
+not strike people over here as remarkably apposite.
+
+In the course of the speeches on this occasion, frequent and feeling
+allusions were made to the condition of three millions of people in
+America who are prevented by legislative enactments from reading for
+themselves the word of life. I know it is not pleasant to our ministers
+upon the stage to hear such things; but is the whole moral sense of the
+world to hush its voice, the whole missionary spirit of Christianity to
+be restrained, because it is disagreeable for us to be reminded of our
+national sins? At least, let the moral atmosphere of the world be kept
+pure, though it should be too stimulating for our diseased lungs. If
+oral instruction will do for three million slaves in America, it will do
+equally well in Austria, Italy, and Spain, and the powers that be,
+there, are just of the opinion that they are in America--that it is
+dangerous to have the people read the Bible for themselves. Thoughts of
+this kind were very ably set forth in some of the speeches. On the stage
+I noticed Rev. Samuel R. Ward, from Toronto in Canada, a full blooded
+African of fine personal presence. He was received and treated with much
+cordiality by the ministerial brethren who surrounded him. I was sorry
+that I could not stay through the speeches, for they were quite
+interesting. C. thought they were the best he ever heard at an
+anniversary. I was obliged to leave after a little. Mr. Sherman very
+kindly came for us in his carriage, and took us a little ride into the
+country.
+
+Mrs. B. says that to-morrow morning we shall go out to see the Dulwich
+Gallery, a fine collection of paintings by the old masters. Now, I
+confess unto you that I have great suspicions of these old masters. Why,
+I wish to know, should none but _old_ masters be thought any thing of?
+Is not nature ever springing, ever new? Is it not fair to conclude that
+all the mechanical assistants of painting are improved with the advance
+of society, as much as of all arts? May not the magical tints, which are
+said to be a secret with the old masters, be the effect of time in part?
+or may not modern artists have their secrets, as well, for future ages
+to study and admire? Then, besides, how are we to know that our
+admiration of old masters is genuine, since we can bring our taste to
+any thing, if we only know we must, and try long enough? People never
+like olives the first time they eat them. In fact, I must confess, I
+have some partialities towards young masters, and a sort of suspicion
+that we are passing over better paintings at our side, to get at those
+which, though the best of their day, are not so good as the best of
+ours. I certainly do not worship the old English poets. With the
+exception of Milton and Shakspeare, there is more poetry in the works of
+the writers of the last fifty years than in all the rest together. Well,
+these are my surmises for the present; but one thing I am determined--as
+my admiration is nothing to any body but myself, I will keep some likes
+and dislikes of my own, and will not get up any raptures that do not
+arise of themselves. I am entirely willing to be conquered by any
+picture that has the power. I will be a non-resistant, but that is all.
+
+May 5. Well, we saw the Dulwich Gallery; five rooms filled with old
+masters, Murillos, Claudes, Rubens, Salvator Rosas, Titians, Cuyps,
+Vandykes, and all the rest of them; probably not the best specimens of
+any one of them, but good enough to begin with. C. and I took different
+courses. I said to him, "Now choose nine pictures simply by your eye,
+and see how far its untaught guidance will bring you within the canons
+of criticism." When he had gone through all the rooms and marked his
+pictures, we found he had selected two by Rubens, two by Vandyke, one by
+Salvator Rosa, three by Murillo, and one by Titian. Pretty successful
+that, was it not, for a first essay? We then took the catalogue, and
+selected all the pictures of each artist one after another, in order to
+get an idea of the style of each. I had a great curiosity to see Claude
+Lorraine's, remembering the poetical things that had been said and sung
+of him. I thought I would see if I could distinguish them by my eye
+without looking at the catalogue I found I could do so. I knew them by a
+certain misty quality in the atmosphere. I was disappointed in them,
+very much. Certainly, they were good paintings; I had nothing to object
+to them, but I profanely thought I had seen pictures by modern landscape
+painters as far excelling them as a brilliant morning excels a cool,
+gray day. Very likely the fault was all in me, but I could not help it;
+so I tried the Murillos. There was a Virgin and Child, with clouds
+around them. The virgin was a very pretty girl, such as you may see by
+the dozen in any boarding school, and the child was a pretty child. Call
+it the young mother and son, and it is a very pretty picture; but call
+it Mary and the infant Jesus, and it is an utter failure. Not such was
+the Jewish princess, the inspired poetess and priestess, the chosen of
+God among all women.
+
+It seems to me that painting is poetry expressing itself by lines and
+colors instead of words; therefore there are two things to be considered
+in every picture: first, the quality of the idea expressed, and second,
+the quality of the language in which it is expressed. Now, with regard
+to the first, I hold that every person of cultivated taste is as good a
+judge of painting as of poetry. The second, which relates to the mode of
+expressing the conception, including drawing and coloring, with all
+their secrets, requires more study, and here our untaught perceptions
+must sometimes yield to the judgment of artists. My first question,
+then, when I look at the work of an artist, is, What sort of a mind has
+this man? What has he to say? And then I consider, How does he say it?
+
+Now, with regard to Murillo, it appeared to me that he was a man of
+rather a mediocre mind, with nothing very high or deep to say, but that
+he was gifted with an exquisite faculty of expressing what he did say;
+and his paintings seem to me to bear an analogy to Pope's poetry,
+wherein the power of expression is wrought to the highest point, but
+without freshness or ideality in the conception. As Pope could reproduce
+in most exquisite wording the fervent ideas of Eloisa, without the power
+to originate such, so Murillo reproduced the current and floating
+religious ideas of his times, with most exquisite perfection of art and
+color, but without ideality or vitality. The pictures of his which
+please me most are his beggar boys and flower girls, where he abandons
+the region of ideality, and simply reproduces nature. His art and
+coloring give an exquisite grace to such sketches.
+
+As to Vandyke, though evidently a fine painter, he is one whose mind
+does not move me. He adds nothing to my stock of thoughts--awakens no
+emotion. I know it is a fine picture, just as I have sometimes been
+conscious in church that I was hearing a fine sermon, which somehow had
+not the slightest effect upon me.
+
+Rubens, on the contrary, whose pictures I detested with all the energy
+of my soul, I knew and felt all the time, by the very pain he gave me,
+to be a real living artist. There was a Venus and Cupid there, as fat
+and as coarse as they could be, but so freely drawn, and so masterly in
+their expression and handling, that one must feel that they were by an
+artist, who could just as easily have painted them any other way if it
+had suited his sovereign pleasure, and therefore we are the more vexed
+with him. When your taste is crossed by a clever person, it always vexes
+you more than when it is done by a stupid one, because it is done with
+such power that there is less hope for you.
+
+There were a number of pictures of Cuyp there, which satisfied my thirst
+for coloring, and appeared to me as I expected the Claudes would have
+done. Generally speaking, his objects are few in number and commonplace
+in their character--a bit of land and water, a few cattle and figures,
+in no way remarkable; but then he floods the whole with that dreamy,
+misty sunlight, such as fills the arches of our forests in the days of
+autumn. As I looked at them I fancied I could hear nuts dropping from
+the trees among the dry leaves, and see the goldenrods and purple
+asters, and hear the click of the squirrel as he whips up the tree to
+his nest. For this one attribute of golden, dreamy haziness, I like
+Cuyp. His power in shedding it over very simple objects reminds me of
+some of the short poems of Longfellow, when things in themselves most
+prosaic are flooded with a kind of poetic light from the inner soul.
+These are merely first ideas and impressions. Of course I do not make up
+my mind about any artist from what I have seen here. We must not expect
+a painter to put his talent into every picture, more than a poet into
+every verse that he writes. Like other men, he is sometimes brilliant
+and inspired, and at others dull and heavy. In general, however, I have
+this to say, that there is some kind of fascination about these old
+masters which I feel very sensibly. But yet, I am sorry to add that
+there is very little of what I consider the highest mission of art in
+the specimens I have thus far seen; nothing which speaks to the deepest
+and the highest; which would inspire a generous ardor, or a solemn
+religious trust. Vainly I seek for something divine, and ask of art to
+bring me nearer to the source of all beauty and perfection. I find
+wealth of coloring, freedom of design, and capability of expression
+wasting themselves merely in portraying trivial sensualities and
+commonplace ideas. So much for the first essay.
+
+In the evening we went to dine with our old friends of the Dingle, Mr.
+and Mrs. Edward Cropper, who are now spending a little time in London.
+We were delighted to meet them once more, and to hear from our Liverpool
+friends. Mrs. Cropper's father, Lord Denman, has returned to England,
+though with no sensible improvement in his health.
+
+At dinner we were introduced to Lord and Lady Hatherton. Lord Hatherton
+is a member of the whig party, and has been chief secretary for Ireland.
+Lady Hatherton is a person of great cultivation and intelligence, warmly
+interested in all the progressive movements of the day; and I gained
+much information in her society. There were also present Sir Charles and
+Lady Trevelyan; the former holds some appointment in the navy. Lady
+Trevelyan is a sister of Macaulay.
+
+In the evening quite a circle came in; among others, Lady Emma Campbell,
+sister of the Duke of Argyle; the daughters of the Archbishop of
+Canterbury, who very kindly invited me to visit them, at Lambeth; and
+Mr. Arthur Helps, besides many others whose names I need not mention.
+
+People here continually apologize for the weather, which, to say the
+least, has been rather ungracious since we have been here; as if one
+ever expected to find any thing but smoke, and darkness, and fog in
+London. The authentic air with which they lament the existence of these
+things _at present_ would almost persuade one that _in general_ London
+was a very clear, bright place. I, however, assured them that, having
+heard from my childhood of the smoke of London, its dimness and
+darkness, I found things much better than I had expected.
+
+They talk here of spirit rappings and table turnings, I find, as in
+America. Many rumors are afloat which seem to have no other effect than
+merely to enliven the chitchat of an evening circle. I passed a very
+pleasant evening, and left about ten o'clock. The gentleman who was
+handing me down stairs said, "I suppose you are going to one or two
+other places to-night." The idea struck me as so preposterous that I
+could not help an exclamation of surprise.
+
+May 6. A good many calls this morning. Among others came Miss
+Greenfield, the (so called) Black Swan. She appears to be a gentle,
+amiable, and interesting young person. She was born the slave of a kind
+mistress, who gave her every thing but education, and, dying, left her
+free with a little property. The property she lost by some legal
+quibble, but had, like others of her race, a passion for music, and
+could sing and play by ear. A young lady, discovering her taste, gave
+her a few lessons. She has a most astonishing voice. C. sat down to the
+piano and played, while she sung. Her voice runs through a compass of
+three octaves and a fourth. This is four notes more than Malibran's. She
+sings a most magnificent tenor, with such a breadth and volume of sound
+that, with your back turned, you could not imagine it to be a woman.
+While she was there, Mrs. S.C. Hall, of the Irish Sketches, was
+announced. She is a tall, well-proportioned woman, with a fine color,
+dark-brown hair, and a cheerful, cordial manner. She brought with her
+her only daughter, a young girl about fifteen. I told her of Miss
+Greenfield, and, she took great interest in her, and requested her to
+sing something for her. C. played the accompaniment, and she sung Old
+Folks at Home, first in a soprano voice, and then in a tenor or
+baritone. Mrs. Hall was amazed and delighted, and entered at once into
+her cause. She said that she would call with me and present her to Sir
+George Smart, who is at the head of the queen's musical establishment,
+and, of course, the acknowledged leader of London musical judgment.
+
+Mrs. Hall very kindly told me that she had called to invite me to seek a
+retreat with her in her charming little country house near London. I do
+not mean that _she_ called it a charming little retreat, but that every
+one who speaks of it gives it that character. She told me that I should
+there have positive and perfect quiet; and what could attract me more
+than that? She said, moreover, that there they had a great many
+nightingales. Ah, this "bower of roses by Bendemeer's stream," could I
+only go there! but I am tied to London by a hundred engagements. I
+cannot do it. Nevertheless, I have promised that I will go and spend
+some time yet, when Mr. S. leaves London.
+
+In the course of the day I had a note from Mrs. Hall, saying that, as
+Sir George Smart was about leaving town, she had not waited for me, but
+had taken Miss Greenfield to him herself. She writes that he was really
+astonished and charmed at the wonderful weight, compass, and power of
+her voice. He was also as well pleased with the mind in her singing, and
+her quickness in doing and catching all that he told her. Should she
+have a public opportunity to perform, he offered to hear her rehearse
+beforehand. Mrs. Hall says this is a great deal for him, whose hours are
+all marked with gold.
+
+In the evening the house was opened in a general way for callers, who
+were coming and going all the evening. I think there must have been over
+two hundred people--among them Martin Farquhar Tupper, a little man,
+with fresh, rosy complexion, and cheery, joyous manners; and Mary
+Howitt, just such a cheerful, sensible, fireside companion as we find
+her in her books,--winning love and trust the very first few moments of
+the interview. The general topic of remark on meeting me seems to be,
+that I am not so bad looking as they were afraid I was; and I do assure
+you that, when I have seen the things that are put up in the shop
+windows here with my name under them, I have been in wondering
+admiration at the boundless loving-kindness of my English and Scottish
+friends, in keeping up such a warm heart for such a Gorgon. I should
+think that the Sphinx in the London Museum might have sat for most of
+them. I am going to make a collection of these portraits to bring home
+to you. There is a great variety of them, and they will be useful, like
+the Irishman's guideboard, which showed where the road did not go.
+
+Before the evening was through I was talked out and worn out--there was
+hardly a chip of me left. To-morrow at eleven o'clock comes the meeting
+at Stafford House. What it will amount to I do not know; but I take no
+thought for the morrow.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+
+MAY 8.
+
+MY DEAR C.:--
+
+In fulfilment of my agreement, I will tell you, as nearly as I can
+remember, all the details of the meeting at Stafford House.
+
+At about eleven o'clock we drove under the arched carriage way of a
+mansion, externally, not very showy in appearance. It stands on the
+borders of St. James's Park, opposite to Buckingham Palace, with a
+street on the north side, and beautiful gardens on the south, while the
+park is extended on the west.
+
+We were received at the door by two stately Highlanders in full costume;
+and what seemed to me an innumerable multitude of servants in livery,
+with powdered hair, repeated our names through the long corridors, from
+one to another.
+
+I have only a confused idea of passing from passage to passage, and from
+hall to hall, till finally we were introduced into a large drawing room.
+No person was present, and I was at full leisure to survey an apartment
+whose arrangements more perfectly suited my eye and taste than any I had
+ever seen before. There was not any particular splendor of furniture, or
+dazzling display of upholstery, but an artistic, poetic air, resulting
+from the arrangement of colors, and the disposition of the works of
+_virtu_ with which the room abounded. The great fault in many splendid
+rooms, is, that they are arranged without any eye to unity of
+impression. The things in them may be all fine in their way, but there
+is no harmony of result.
+
+People do not often consider that there may be a general sentiment to be
+expressed in the arrangement of a room, as well as in the composition of
+a picture. It is this leading idea which corresponds to what painters
+call the ground tone, or harmonizing tint, of a picture. The presence of
+this often renders a very simple room extremely fascinating, and the
+absence of it makes the most splendid combinations of furniture
+powerless to please.
+
+The walls were covered with green damask, laid on flat, and confined in
+its place by narrow gilt bands, which bordered it around the margin. The
+chairs, ottomans, and sofas were of white woodwork, varnished and
+gilded, covered with the same.
+
+The carpet was of a green ground, bedropped with a small yellow leaf;
+and in each window a circular, standing basket contained a whole bank of
+primroses, growing as if in their native soil, their pale yellow
+blossoms and green leaves harmonizing admirably with the general tone of
+coloring.
+
+Through the fall of the lace curtains I could see out into the beautiful
+grounds, whose clumps of blossoming white lilacs, and velvet grass,
+seemed so in harmony with the green interior of the room, that one would
+think they had been arranged as a continuation of the idea.
+
+One of the first individual objects which attracted my attention was,
+over the mantel-piece, a large, splendid picture by Landseer, which I
+have often seen engraved. It represents the two eldest children of the
+Duchess of Sutherland, the Marquis of Stafford, and Lady Blantyre, at
+that time Lady Levison Gower, in their childhood. She is represented as
+feeding a fawn; a little poodle dog is holding up a rose to her; and her
+brother is lying on the ground, playing with an old staghound.
+
+I had been familiar with Landseer's engravings, but this was the first
+of his paintings I had ever seen, and I was struck with the rich and
+harmonious quality of the coloring. There was also a full-length marble
+statue of the Marquis of Stafford, taken, I should think, at about
+seventeen years of age, in full Highland costume.
+
+When the duchess appeared, I thought she looked handsomer by daylight
+than in the evening. She was dressed in white muslin, with a drab velvet
+basque slashed with satin of the same color. Her hair was confined by a
+gold and diamond net on the back part of her head.
+
+She received us with the same warm and simple kindness which she had
+shown before. We were presented to the Duke of Sutherland. He is a tall,
+slender man, with rather a thin face, light brown hair, and a mild blue
+eye, with an air of gentleness and dignity. The delicacy of his health
+prevents him from moving in general society, or entering into public
+life. He spends much of his time in reading, and devising and executing
+schemes of practical benevolence for the welfare of his numerous
+dependants.
+
+I sought a little private conversation with the duchess in her boudoir,
+in which I frankly confessed a little anxiety respecting the
+arrangements of the day: having lived all my life in such a shady and
+sequestered way, and being entirely ignorant of life as it exists in the
+sphere in which she moves, such apprehensions were rather natural.
+
+She begged that I would make myself entirely easy, and consider myself
+as among my own friends; that she had invited a few friends to lunch,
+and that afterwards others would call; that there would be a short
+address from the ladies of England read by Lord Shaftesbury, which would
+require no answer.
+
+I could not but be grateful for the consideration thus evinced. The
+matter being thus adjusted, we came back to the drawing room, when the
+party began to assemble.
+
+The only difference, I may say, by the by, in the gathering of such a
+company and one with us, is in the announcing of names at the door; a,
+custom which I think a good one, saving a vast deal of the breath we
+always expend in company, by asking "Who is that? and that?" Then, too,
+people can fall into conversation without a formal presentation, the
+presumption being that nobody is invited with whom, it is not proper
+that you should converse. The functionary who performed the announcing
+was a fine, stalwart man, in full Highland costume, the duke being the
+head of a Highland clan.
+
+Among the first that entered were the members of the family, the Duke
+and Duchess of Argyle, Lord and Lady Blantyre, the Marquis and
+Marchioness of Stafford, and Lady Emma Campbell. Then followed Lord
+Shaftesbury with his beautiful lady, and her father and mother, Lord and
+Lady Palmerston. Lord Palmerston is of middle height, with a keen, dark
+eye, and black hair streaked with gray. There is something peculiarly
+alert and vivacious about all his movements; in short his appearance
+perfectly answers to what we know of him from his public life. One has a
+strange mythological feeling about the existence of people of whom one
+hears for many years without ever seeing them. While talking with Lord
+Palmerston I could but remember how often I had heard father and Mr. S.
+exulting over his foreign despatches by our home fireside.
+
+The Marquis of Lansdowne now entered. He is about the middle height,
+with gray hair, blue eyes, and a mild, quiet dignity of manner. He is
+one of those who, as Lord Henry Pettes, took a distinguished part with
+Clarkson and Wilberforce in the abolition of the slave trade. He has
+always been a most munificent patron of literature and art.
+
+There were present, also, Lord John Russell, Mr. Gladstone, and Lord
+Grenville. The latter we all thought very strikingly resembled in his
+appearance the poet Longfellow. My making the remark introduced the
+subject of his poetry. The Duchess of Argyle appealed to her two little
+boys, who stood each side of her, if they remembered her reading
+Evangeline to them. It is a gratification to me that I find by every
+English fireside traces of one of our American poets. These two little
+boys of the Duchess of Argyle, and the youngest son of the Duchess of
+Sutherland, were beautiful fair-haired children, picturesquely attired
+in the Highland costume. There were some other charming children of the
+family circle present. The eldest son of the Duke of Argyle bears the
+title of the Lord of Lorn, which Scott has rendered so poetical a sound
+to our ears.
+
+When lunch was announced, the Duke of Sutherland gave me his arm, and
+led me through a suite of rooms into the dining hall. Each room that we
+passed was rich in its pictures, statues, and artistic arrangements; a
+poetic eye and taste had evidently presided over all. The table was
+beautifully laid, ornamented by two magnificent _epergnes_, crystal
+vases supported by wrought silver standards, filled with the most
+brilliant hothouse flowers; on the edges of the vases and nestling
+among the flowers were silver doves of the size of life. The walls of
+the room were hung with gorgeous pictures, and directly opposite to me
+was a portrait of the Duchess of Sutherland, by Sir Thomas Lawrence,
+which has figured largely in our souvenirs and books of beauty. She is
+represented with a little child in her arms; this child, now Lady
+Blantyre, was sitting opposite to me at table, with a charming little
+girl of her own, of about the same apparent age. When one sees such
+things, one almost fancies this to be a fairy palace, where the cold
+demons of age and time have lost their power.
+
+I was seated next to Lord Lansdowne, who conversed much with me about
+affairs in America. It seems to me that the great men of the old world
+regard our country thoughtfully. It is a new development of society,
+acting every day with greater and greater power on the old world; nor is
+it yet clearly seen what its final results will be. His observations
+indicated a calm, clear, thoughtful mind--an accurate observer of life
+and history.
+
+Meanwhile the servants moved noiselessly to and fro, taking up the
+various articles on the table, and offering them to the guests in a
+peculiarly quiet manner. One of the dishes brought to me was a plover's
+nest, precisely as the plover made it, with five little blue speckled
+eggs in it. This mode of serving plover's eggs, as I understand it, is
+one of the fashions of-the day, and has something quite sylvan and
+picturesque about it; but it looked so, for all the world, like a
+robin's nest that I used to watch out in our home orchard, that I had it
+not in my heart to profane the sanctity of the image by eating one of
+the eggs.
+
+The _cuisine_ of these West End regions appears to be entirely under
+French legislation, conducted by Parisian artists, skilled in all subtle
+and metaphysical combinations of ethereal possibilities, quite
+inscrutable to the eye of sense. Her grace's _chef_, I have heard it
+said elsewhere, bears the reputation of being the first artist of his
+class in England. The profession as thus sublimated bears the same
+proportion to the old substantial English cookery that Mozart's music
+does to Handel's, or Midsummer Night's Dream to Paradise Lost.
+
+This meal, called _lunch_, is with the English quite an institution,
+being apparently a less elaborate and ceremonious dinner. Every thing is
+placed upon the table at once, and ladies sit down without removing
+their bonnets; it is, I imagine, the most social and family meal of the
+day; one in which children are admitted to the table, even in the
+presence of company. It generally takes place in the middle of the day,
+and the dinner, which comes after it, at eight or nine in the evening,
+is in comparison only a ceremonial proceeding.
+
+I could not help thinking, as I looked around on so many men whom I had
+heard of historically all my life, how very much less they bear the
+marks of age than men who have been connected a similar length of time
+with the movements of our country. This appearance of youthfulness and
+alertness has a constantly deceptive influence upon one in England. I
+cannot realize that people are as old as history states them to be. In
+the present company there were men of sixty or seventy, whom I should
+have pronounced at the first glance to be fifty.
+
+Generally speaking our working minds seem to wear out their bodies
+faster; perhaps because our climate is more stimulating; more, perhaps,
+from the intenser stimulus of our political _regime_, which never leaves
+any thing long at rest.
+
+The tone of manners in this distinguished circle did not obtrude itself
+upon my mind as different from that of highly-educated people in our own
+country. It appeared simple, friendly, natural, and sincere. They talked
+like people who thought of what they were saying, rather than how to say
+it. The practice of thorough culture and good breeding is substantially
+the same through the world, though smaller conventionalities may differ.
+
+After lunch the whole party ascended to the picture gallery, passing on
+our way the grand staircase and hall, said to be the most magnificent in
+Europe. All that wealth could command of artistic knowledge and skill
+has been expended here to produce a superb result. It fills the entire
+centre of the building, extending up to the roof and surmounted by a
+splendid dome. On three sides a gallery runs round it supported by
+pillars. To this gallery you ascend on the fourth side by a staircase,
+which midway has a broad, flat landing, from which stairs ascend, on the
+right and left, into the gallery. The whole hall and staircase, carpeted
+with a scarlet footcloth, give a broad, rich mass of coloring, throwing
+out finely the statuary and gilded balustrades. On the landing is a
+marble statue of a Sibyl, by Rinaldi. The walls are adorned by gorgeous
+frescos from Paul Veronese. What is peculiar in the arrangements of this
+hall is, that although so extensive, it still wears an air of warm
+homelikeness and comfort, as if it might be a delightful place to lounge
+and enjoy life, amid the ottomans, sofas, pictures, and statuary, which
+are disposed here and there throughout.
+
+All this, however, I passed rapidly by as I ascended the staircase, and
+passed onward to the picture gallery. This was a room about a hundred
+feet long by forty wide, surmounted by a dome gorgeously finished with
+golden palm, trees and carving. This hall is lighted in the evening by a
+row of gaslights placed outside the ground glass of the dome; this light
+is concentrated and thrown down by strong reflectors, communicating thus
+the most brilliant radiance without the usual heat of gas. This gallery
+is peculiarly rich in paintings of the Spanish school. Among them are
+two superb Murillos, taken from convents by Marshal Soult, during the
+time of his career in Spain.
+
+There was a painting by Paul de la Roche of the Earl of Strafford led
+forth to execution, engravings of which we have seen in the print shops
+in America. It is a strong and striking picture, and has great dramatic
+effect. But there was a painting in one corner by a Flemish artist,
+whose name I do not now remember, representing Christ under examination
+before Caiaphas. It was a candle-light scene, and only two faces were
+very distinct; the downcast, calm, resolute face of Christ, in which was
+written a perfect knowledge of his approaching doom, and the eager,
+perturbed vehemence of the high priest, who was interrogating him. On
+the frame was engraved the lines,--
+
+  "He was wounded for our transgressions,
+  He was bruised for our iniquities;
+  The chastisement of our peace was upon him,
+  And with his stripes we are healed."
+
+The presence of this picture here in the midst of this scene was very
+affecting to me.
+
+The company now began to assemble and throng the gallery, and very soon
+the vast room was crowded. Among the throng I remember many
+presentations, but of course must have forgotten many more. Archbishop
+Whately was there, with Mrs. and Miss Whately; Macaulay, with two of
+his sisters; Milman, the poet and historian; the Bishop of Oxford,
+Chevalier Bunsen and lady, and many more.
+
+When all the company were together Lord Shaftesbury read a very short,
+kind, and considerate address in behalf of the ladies of England,
+expressive of their cordial welcome. The address will be seen in the
+Morning Advertiser, which I send you. The company remained a while after
+this, walking through the rooms and conversing in different groups, and
+I talked with several. Archbishop Whately, I thought, seemed rather
+inclined to be jocose: he seems to me like some of our American divines;
+a man who pays little attention to forms, and does not value them. There
+is a kind of brusque humor in his address, a downright heartiness, which
+reminds one of western character. If he had been born in our latitude,
+in Kentucky or Wisconsin, the natives would have called him Whately, and
+said he was a real steamboat on an argument. This is not precisely the
+kind of man we look for in an archbishop. One sees traces of this humor
+in his Historic Doubts concerning the Existence of Napoleon. I conversed
+with some who knew him intimately, and they said that he delighted in
+puns and odd turns of language.
+
+I was also introduced to the Bishop of Oxford, who is a son of
+Wilberforce. He is a short man, of very youthful appearance, with bland,
+graceful, courteous manners. He is much admired as a speaker. I heard
+him spoken of as one of the most popular preachers of the day.
+
+I must not forget to say that many ladies of the society of Friends were
+here, and one came and put on to my arm a reticule, in which, she said,
+were carried about the very first antislavery tracts ever distributed in
+England. At that time the subject of antislavery was as unpopular in
+England as it can be at this day any where in the world, and I trust
+that a day will come when the subject will be as popular in South
+Carolina as it is now in England. People always glory in the right after
+they have done it.
+
+After a while the company dispersed over the house to look at the rooms.
+There are all sorts of parlors and reception rooms, furnished with the
+same correct taste. Each room had its predominant color; among them blue
+was a particular favorite.
+
+The carpets were all of those small figures I have described, the blue
+ones being of the same pattern with the green. The idea, I suppose, is
+to produce a mass of color of a certain tone, and not to distract the
+eye with the complicated pattern. Where so many objects of art and
+_virtu_ are to be exhibited, without this care in regulating and
+simplifying the ground tints, there would be no unity in the impression.
+This was my philosophizing on the matter, and if it is not the reason
+why it is done, it ought to be. It is as good a theory as most theories,
+at any rate.
+
+Before we went away I made a little call on the Lady Constance
+Grosvenor, and saw the future Marquis of Westminster, heir to the
+largest estate in England. His beautiful mother is celebrated in the
+annals of the court journal as one of the handsomest ladies in England.
+His little lordship was presented to me in all the dignity of long,
+embroidered clothes, being then, I believe, not quite a fortnight old,
+and I can assure you that he demeaned himself with a gravity becoming
+his rank and expectations.
+
+There is a more than common interest attached to these children by one
+who watches the present state of the world. On the character and
+education of the princes and nobility of this generation the future
+history of England must greatly depend.
+
+This Stafford House meeting, in any view of it, is a most remarkable
+fact. Kind and gratifying as its arrangements have been to me, I am far
+from appropriating it to myself individually, as a personal honor. I
+rather regard it as the most public expression possible of the feelings
+of the women of England on one of the most important questions of our
+day--that, of individual liberty considered in its religious bearings.
+
+The most splendid of England's palaces has this day opened its doors to
+the slave. Its treasures of wealth and of art, its prestige of high name
+and historic memories, have been consecrated to the acknowledgment of
+Christianity in that form, wherein, in our day, it is most frequently
+denied--the recognition of the brotherhood of the human family, and the
+equal religious value of every human soul. A fair and noble hand by this
+meeting has fixed, in the most public manner, an ineffaceable seal to
+the beautiful sentiments of that most Christian document, the letter of
+the ladies of Great Britain to the ladies of America. That letter and
+this public attestation of it are now historic facts, which wait their
+time and the judgment of advancing Christianity.
+
+Concerning that letter I have one or two things to say. Nothing can be
+more false than the insinuation that has been thrown out in some
+American papers, that it was a political movement. It had its first
+origin in the deep religious feelings of the man whose whole life has
+been devoted to the abolition of the white-labor slavery of Great
+Britain; the man whose eye explored the darkness of the collieries, and
+counted the weary steps of the cotton spinners--who penetrated the dens
+where the insane were tortured with darkness, and cold, and stripes; and
+threaded the loathsome alleys of London, haunts of fever and cholera:
+this man it was, whose heart was overwhelmed by the tale of American
+slavery, and who could find no relief from, this distress except in
+raising some voice to the ear of Christianity. Fearful of the jealousy
+of political interference, Lord Shaftesbury published an address to the
+ladies of England, in which he told them that he felt himself moved by
+an irresistible impulse to entreat them to raise their voice, in the
+name of a common Christianity and womanhood, to their American sisters.
+The abuse which has fallen upon him for this most Christian proceeding
+does not in the least surprise him, because it is of the kind that has
+always met him in every benevolent movement. When in the Parliament of
+England he was pleading for women in the collieries who were harnessed
+like beasts of burden, and made to draw heavy loads through miry and
+dark passages, and for children who were taken at three years old to
+labor where the sun never shines, he was met with determined and furious
+opposition and obloquy--accused of being a disorganizer, and of wishing
+to restore the dark ages. Very similar accusations have attended all his
+efforts for the laboring classes during the long course of seventeen
+years, which resulted at last in the triumphant passage of the factory
+bill.
+
+We in America ought to remember that the gentle remonstrance of the
+letter of the ladies of England contains, in the mildest form, the
+sentiments of universal Christendom. Rebukes much more pointed are
+coming back to us even from, our own missionaries. A day is coming when,
+past all the temporary currents of worldly excitement, we shall, each of
+us, stand alone face to face with the perfect purity of our Redeemer.
+The thought of such a final interview ought certainly to modify all our
+judgments now, that we may strive to approve only what we shall then
+approve.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+
+MY DEAR C.:--
+
+As to those ridiculous stories about the Duchess of Sutherland, which
+have found their way into many of the prints in America, one has only to
+be here, moving in society, to see how excessively absurd they are.
+
+All my way through Scotland, and through England, I was associating,
+from day to day, with people of every religious denomination, and every
+rank of life. I have been with, dissenters and with churchmen; with the
+national Presbyterian church and the free Presbyterian; with Quakers and
+Baptists.
+
+In all these circles I have heard the great and noble of the land freely
+spoken of and canvassed, and if there had been the least shadow of a
+foundation for any such accusations, I certainly should have heard it
+recognized in some manner. If in no other, such warm friends as I have
+heard speak would have alluded to the subject in the way of defence; but
+I have actually never heard any allusion of any sort, as if there was
+any thing to be explained or accounted for.
+
+As I have before intimated, the Howard family, to which the duchess
+belongs, is one which has always been on the side of popular rights and
+popular reform. Lord Carlisle, her brother, has been a leader of the
+people, particularly during the time of the corn-law reformation, and
+_she_ has been known to take a wide and generous interest in all these
+subjects. Every where that I have moved through Scotland and England I
+have heard her kindness of heart, her affability of manner, and her
+attention to the feelings of others spoken of as marked characteristics.
+
+Imagine, then, what people must think when they find in respectable
+American prints the absurd story of her turning her tenants out into the
+snow, and ordering the cottages to be set on fire over their heads
+because they would not go out.
+
+But, if you ask how such an absurd story could ever have been made up,
+whether there is the least foundation to make it on, I answer, that it
+is the exaggerated report of a movement made by the present Duke of
+Sutherland's father, in the year 1811, and which was part of a great
+movement that passed through, the Highlands of Scotland, when the
+advancing progress of civilization began to make it necessary to change
+the estates from military to agricultural establishments.
+
+Soon after the union of the crowns of England and Scotland, the border
+chiefs found it profitable to adopt upon their estates that system, of
+agriculture to which their hills were adapted, rather than to continue
+the maintenance of military retainers. Instead of keeping garrisons,
+with small armies, in a district, they decided to keep only so many as
+could profitably cultivate the land. The effect of this, of course, was
+like disbanding an army. It threw many people out of employ, and forced
+them to seek for a home elsewhere. Like many other movements which, in
+their final results, are beneficial to society, this was at first
+vehemently resisted, and had to be carried into effect in some cases by
+force. As I have said, it began first in the southern counties of
+Scotland, soon after the union of the English and Scottish crowns, and
+gradually crept northward--one county after another yielding to the
+change. To a certain extent, as it progressed northward, the demand for
+labor in the great towns absorbed the surplus population; but when it
+came into the extreme Highlands, this refuge was wanting. Emigration to
+America now became the resource; and the surplus population were induced
+to this by means such as the Colonization Society now recommends and
+approves for promoting emigration to Liberia.
+
+The first farm that was so formed on the Sutherland estate was in 1806.
+The great change was made in 1811-12, and completed in 1819-20.
+
+The Sutherland estates are in the most northern portion of Scotland. The
+distance of this district from the more advanced parts of the kingdom,
+the total want of roads, the unfrequent communication by sea, and the
+want of towns, made it necessary to adopt a different course in regard
+to the location of the Sutherland population from that which
+circumstances had provided in other parts of Scotland, where they had
+been removed from the bleak and uncultivable mountains. They had lots
+given them near the sea, or in more fertile spots, where, by labor and
+industry, they might maintain themselves. They had two years allowed
+them for preparing for the change, without payment of rent. Timber for
+their houses was given, and many other facilities for assisting their
+change.
+
+The general agent of the Sutherland estate is Mr. Loch. In a speech of
+this gentleman in the House of Commons, on the second reading of the
+Scotch poor-law bill, June 12, 1845, he states the following fact with
+regard to the management of the Sutherland estate during this period,
+from 1811 to 1833, which certainly can speak for itself: "I can state as
+from fact that, from 1811 to 1833, not one sixpence of rent has been
+received from that county, but, on the contrary, there has been sent
+there, for the benefit and improvement of the people, a sum exceeding
+sixty thousand pounds."
+
+Mr. Loch goes on in the same speech to say, "There is no set of people
+more industrious than the people of Sutherland. Thirty years since they
+were engaged in illegal distillation to a very great extent; at the
+present moment there is not, I believe, an illegal still in the county.
+Their morals have improved as those habits have been abandoned; and they
+have added many hundreds, I believe thousands, of acres to the land in
+cultivation since they were placed upon the shore.
+
+"Previous to that change to which I have referred, they exported very
+few cattle, and hardly any thing else. They were, also, every now and
+then, exposed to all the difficulties of extreme famine. In the years
+1812-13, and 1816-17, so great was the misery that it was necessary to
+send down oatmeal for their supply to the amount of nine thousand
+pounds, and that was given to the people. But, since industrious habits
+were introduced, and they were settled within reach of fishing, no such
+calamity has overtaken them. Their condition was then so low that they
+were obliged to bleed their cattle, during the winter, and mix the blood
+with the remnant of meal they had, in order to save them from
+starvation.
+
+"Since then the country has improved so much that the fish, in
+particular, which they exported, in 1815, from one village alone,
+Helmsdale, (which, previous to 1811, did not exist,) amounted to five
+thousand three hundred and eighteen barrels of herring, and in 1844
+thirty-seven thousand five hundred and ninety-four barrels, giving
+employment to about three thousand nine hundred people. This extends
+over the whole of the county, in which fifty-six thousand barrels were
+cured.
+
+"Do not let me be supposed to say that there are not cases requiring
+attention: it must be so in a large population; but there can be no
+means taken by a landlord, or by those under him, that are not bestowed
+upon that tenantry.
+
+"It has been said that the contribution by the heritor (the duke) to one
+kirk session for the poor was but six pounds. Now, in the eight parishes
+which are called Sutherland proper, the amount of the contribution of
+the Duke of Sutherland to the kirk session is forty-two pounds a year.
+That is a very small sum but that sum merely is so given because the
+landlord thinks that he can distribute his charity in a more beneficial
+manner to the people; and the amount of charity which he gives--and
+which, I may say, is settled on them, for it is given regularly--is
+above four hundred and fifty pounds a year.
+
+"Therefore the statements that have been made, so far from being
+correct, are in every way an exaggeration of what is the fact. No
+portion of the kingdom has advanced in prosperity so much; and if the
+honorable member (Mr. S. Crawford) will go down there, I will give him
+every facility for seeing the state of the people, and he shall judge
+with his own eyes whether my representation be not correct. I could go
+through a great many other particulars, but I will not trouble the house
+now with them. The statements I have made are accurate, and I am quite
+ready to prove them in any way that is necessary."
+
+This same Mr. Loch has published a pamphlet, in which he has traced out
+the effects of the system pursued on the Sutherland estate, in many very
+important particulars. It appears from this that previously to 1811 the
+people were generally sub-tenants to middle men, who exacted high rents,
+and also various perquisites, such as the delivery of poultry and eggs,
+giving so many days' labor in harvest time, cutting and carrying peat
+and stones for building.
+
+Since 1811 the people have become immediate tenants, at a greatly
+diminished rate of rent, and released from all these exactions. For
+instance, in two parishes, in 1812, the rents were one thousand five
+hundred and ninety-three pounds, and in 1823 they were only nine hundred
+and seventy-two pounds. In another parish the reduction of rents has
+amounted, on an average, to thirty-six per cent. Previous to 1811 the
+houses were turf huts of the poorest description, in many instances the
+cattle being kept under the same roof with the family. Since 1811 a
+large proportion, of their houses have been rebuilt in a superior
+manner--the landlord having paid them for their old timber where it
+could not be moved, and having also contributed the new timber, with
+lime.
+
+Before 1811 all the rents of the estates were used for the personal
+profit of the landlord; but since that time, both by the present duke
+and his father, all the rents have been expended on improvements in the
+county, besides sixty thousand pounds more which have been remitted
+from. England for the purpose. This money has been spent on churches,
+school houses, harbors, public inns, roads, and bridges.
+
+In 1811 there was not a carriage road in the county, and only two
+bridges. Since that time four hundred and thirty miles of road have been
+constructed on the estate, at the expense of the proprietor and tenants.
+There is not a turnpike gate in the county, and yet the roads are kept
+perfect.
+
+Before 1811 the mail was conveyed entirely by a foot runner, and there
+was but one post office in the county; and there was no direct post
+across the county, but letters to the north and west were forwarded
+once a month. A mail coach has since been established, to which the late
+Duke of Sutherland contributed more than two thousand six hundred
+pounds; and since 1834 mail gigs have been established to convey letters
+to the north and west coast, towards which the Duke of Sutherland
+contributes three hundred pounds a year. There are thirteen post offices
+and sub-offices in the county. Before 1811 there was no inn in the
+county fit for the reception of strangers. Since that time there have
+been fourteen inns either built or enlarged by the duke.
+
+Before 1811 there was scarcely a cart on the estate; all the carriage
+was done on the backs of ponies. The cultivation of the interior was
+generally executed with a rude kind of spade, and there was not a gig in
+the county. In 1845 there were one thousand one hundred and thirty carts
+owned on the estate, and seven hundred and eight ploughs, also forty-one
+gigs.
+
+Before 1812 there was no baker, and only two shops. In 1845 there were
+eight bakers and forty-six grocer's shops, in nearly all of which shoe
+blacking was sold to some extent, an unmistakable evidence of advancing
+civilization.
+
+In 1808 the cultivation of the coast side of Sutherland was so defective
+that it was necessary often, in a fall of snow, to cut down the young
+Scotch firs to feed the cattle on; and in 1808 hay had to be imported.
+_Now_ the coast side of Sutherland exhibits an extensive district of
+land cultivated according to the best principles of modern agriculture;
+several thousand acres have been added to the arable land by these
+improvements.
+
+Before 1811 there were no woodlands of any extent on the estate, and
+timber had to be obtained from a distance. Since that time many
+thousand acres of woodland have been planted, the thinnings of which,
+being sold to the people at a moderate rate, have greatly increased
+their comfort and improved their domestic arrangements.
+
+Before 1811 there were only two blacksmiths in the county. In 1845 there
+were forty-two blacksmiths and sixty-three carpenters. Before 1829 the
+exports of the county consisted of black cattle of an inferior
+description, pickled salmon, and some ponies; but these were precarious
+sources of profit, as many died in winter for want of food; for example,
+in the spring of 1807 two hundred cows, five hundred cattle, and more
+than two hundred ponies died in the parish of Kildonan alone. Since that
+time the measures pursued by the Duke of Sutherland, in introducing
+improved breeds of cattle, pigs, and modes of agriculture, have produced
+results in exports which tell their own story. About forty thousand
+sheep and one hundred and eighty thousand fleeces of wool are exported
+annually; also fifty thousand barrels of herring.
+
+The whole fishing village of Helmsdale has been built since that time.
+It now contains from thirteen to fifteen curing yards covered with
+slate, and several streets with houses similarly built. The herring
+fishery, which has been mentioned as so productive, has been established
+since the change, and affords employment to three thousand nine hundred
+people.
+
+Since 1811, also, a savings bank has been established in every parish,
+of which the Duke of Sutherland is patron and treasurer, and the savings
+have been very considerable.
+
+The education of the children of the people has been a subject of deep
+interest to the Duke of Sutherland. Besides the parochial schools,
+(which answer, I suppose, to our district schools,) of which the
+greater number have been rebuilt or repaired at an expense exceeding
+what is legally required for such purposes, the Duke of Sutherland
+contributes to the support of several schools for young females, at
+which sewing and other branches of education are taught; and in 1844 he
+agreed to establish twelve general assembly schools in such parts of the
+county as were without the sphere of the parochial schools, and to build
+school and schoolmasters' houses, which will, upon an average, cost two
+hundred pounds each; and to contribute annually two hundred pounds in
+aid of salaries to the teachers, besides a garden and cows' grass; and
+in 1845 he made an arrangement with the education committee of the Free
+church, whereby no child, of whatever persuasion, will be beyond the
+reach of moral and religious education.
+
+There are five medical gentlemen on the estate, three of whom receive
+allowances from the Duke of Sutherland for attendance on the poor in the
+districts in which they reside.
+
+An agricultural association, or farmers' club, has been formed under the
+patronage of the Duke of Sutherland, of which the other proprietors in
+the county, and the larger tenantry, are members, which is in a very
+active and flourishing state. They have recently invited Professor
+Johnston to visit Sutherland, and give lectures on agricultural
+chemistry.
+
+The total population of the Sutherland estate is twenty-one thousand
+seven hundred and eighty-four. To have the charge and care of so large
+an estate, of course, must require very systematic arrangements; but a
+talent for system seems to be rather the forte of the English.
+
+The estate is first divided into three districts, and each district is
+under the superintendence of a factor, who communicates with the duke
+through a general agent. Besides this, when the duke is on the estate,
+which is during a portion of every year, he receives on Monday whoever
+of his tenants wishes to see him. Their complaints or wishes are
+presented in writing; he takes them into consideration, and gives
+written replies.
+
+Besides the three factors there is a ground officer, or sub-factor, in
+every parish, and an agriculturist in the Dunrobin district, who gives
+particular attention to instructing the people in the best methods of
+farming. The factors, the ground officers, and the agriculturists all
+work to one common end. They teach the advantages of draining; of
+ploughing deep, and forming their ridges in straight lines; of
+constructing tanks for saving liquid manure. The young farmers also pick
+up a great deal of knowledge when working as ploughmen or laborers on
+the more immediate grounds of the estate.
+
+The head agent, Mr. Loch, has been kind enough to put into my hands a
+general report of the condition of the estate, which he drew up for the
+inspection of the duke, May 12, 1853, and in which he goes minutely over
+the condition of every part of the estate.
+
+One anecdote of the former Duke of Sutherland will show the spirit which
+has influenced the family in their management of the estate. In 1817,
+when there was much suffering on account of bad seasons, the Duke of
+Sutherland sent down his chief agent to look into the condition of the
+people, who desired the ministers of the parishes to send in their lists
+of the poor. To his surprise it was found that there were located on the
+estate a number of people who had settled there without leave. They
+amounted to four hundred and eight families, or two thousand persons;
+and though they had no legal title to remain where they were, no
+hesitation was shown in supplying them with food in the same manner
+with those who were tenants, on the sole condition that on the first
+opportunity they should take cottages on the sea shore, and become
+industrious people. It was the constant object of the duke to keep the
+rents of his poorer tenants at a nominal amount.
+
+What led me more particularly to inquire into these facts was, that I
+received by mail, while in London, an account containing some of these
+stories, which had been industriously circulated in America. There were
+dreadful accounts of cruelties practised in the process of inducing the
+tenants to change their places of residence. The following is a specimen
+of these stories:--
+
+     "I was present at the pulling down and burning of the house of
+     William Chisholm, Badinloskin, in which was lying his wife's
+     mother, an old, bed-ridden woman of near one hundred years of age,
+     none of the family being present. I informed the persons about to
+     set fire to the house of this circumstance, and prevailed on them
+     to wait till Mr. Sellar came. On his arrival I told him of the poor
+     old woman being in a condition unfit for removal. He replied, 'Damn
+     her, the old witch, she has lived too long; let her burn.' Fire was
+     immediately set to the house, and the blankets in which she was
+     carried were in flames before she could be got out. She was placed
+     in a little shed, and it was with great difficulty they were
+     prevented from firing that also. The old woman's daughter arrived
+     while the house was on fire, and assisted the neighbors in removing
+     her mother out of the flames and smoke, presenting a picture of
+     horror which I shall never forget, but cannot attempt to describe.
+     She died within five days."
+
+With regard to this story Mr. Loch, the agent, says, "I must notice the
+only thing like a fact stated in the newspaper extract which you sent to
+me, wherein Mr. Sellar is accused of acts of cruelty towards some of the
+people. This Mr. Sellar tested, by bringing an action against the then
+sheriff substitute of the county. He obtained a verdict for heavy
+damages. The sheriff, by whom, the slander was propagated, left the
+county. Both are since dead."
+
+Having, through Lord Shaftesbury's kindness, received the benefit of Mr.
+Loch's corrections to this statement, I am permitted to make a little
+further extract from his reply. He says,--
+
+"In addition to what I was able to say in my former paper, I can now
+state that the Duke of Sutherland has received, from, one of the most
+determined opposers of the measure, who travelled to the north of
+Scotland as editor of a newspaper, a letter regretting all he had
+written on the subject, being convinced that he was entirely
+misinformed. As you take so much interest in the subject, I will
+conclude by saying that nothing could exceed the prosperity of the
+county during the past year; their stock, sheep, and other things sold
+at high prices; their crops of grain and turnips were never so good, and
+the potatoes were free from all disease; rents have been paid better
+than was ever known. * * * As an instance of the improved habits of the
+farmers, no house is now built for them that they do not require a hot
+bath and water closets."
+
+From this long epitome you can gather the following results; first, if
+the system were a bad one, the Duchess of Sutherland had nothing to do
+with it, since it was first introduced in 1806, the same year her grace
+was born; and the accusation against Mr. Sellar dates in 1811, when her
+grace was five or six years old. The Sutherland arrangements were
+completed in 1819, and her grace was not married to the duke till 1823,
+so that, had the arrangement been the worst in the world, it is nothing
+to the purpose so far as she is concerned.
+
+As to whether the arrangement _is_ a bad one, the facts which have been
+stated speak for themselves. To my view it is an almost sublime instance
+of the benevolent employment of superior wealth and power in shortening
+the struggles of advancing civilization, and elevating in a few years a
+whole community to a point of education and material prosperity, which,
+unassisted, they might never have obtained,
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+
+LONDON, Sunday, May 8.
+
+MY DEAR S.:--
+
+Mr. S. is very unwell, in bed, worn out with, the threefold labor of
+making and receiving calls, visiting, and delivering public addresses.
+C. went to hear Dr. McNeile, of Liverpool, preach--one of the leading
+men of the established church evangelical party, a strong millenarian.
+C. said that he was as fine a looking person in canonicals as he ever
+saw in the pulpit. In doctrine he is what we in America should call very
+strong old school. I went, as I had always predetermined to do, if ever
+I came to London, to hear Baptist Noel, drawn thither by the melody and
+memory of those beautiful hymns of his[N], which must meet a response in
+every Christian heart. He is tall and well formed, with one of the most
+classical and harmonious heads I ever saw. Singularly enough, he
+reminded me of a bust of Achilles at the London Museum. He is indeed a
+swift-footed Achilles, but in another race, another warfare. Born of a
+noble family, naturally endowed with sensitiveness and ideality to
+appreciate all the amenities and suavities of that brilliant sphere, the
+sacrifice must have been inconceivably great for him to renounce favor
+and preferment, position in society,--which, here in England, means more
+than Americans can ever dream of,--to descend from being a court
+chaplain, to become a preacher in a Baptist dissenting chapel. Whatever
+may be thought of the correctness of the intellectual conclusions which
+led him to such a step, no one can fail to revere the strength and
+purity of principle which could prompt to such sacrifices. Many,
+perhaps, might have preferred that he should have chosen a less decided
+course. But if his judgment really led to these results, I see no way in
+which it was possible for him to have avoided it. It was with an emotion
+of reverence that I contrasted the bareness, plainness, and poverty of
+the little chapel with that evident air of elegance and cultivation
+which appeared in all that he said and did. The sermon was on the text,
+"Now abideth faith, hope, and charity, these three." Naturally enough,
+the subject divided itself into faith, hope, and charity.
+
+His style calm, flowing, and perfectly harmonious, his delivery serene
+and graceful, the whole flowed over one like a calm and clear strain of
+music. It was a sermon after the style of Tholuck and other German
+sermonizers, who seem to hold that the purpose of preaching is not to
+rouse the soul by an antagonistic struggle with sin through the reason,
+but to soothe the passions, quiet the will, and bring the mind into a
+frame in which it shall incline to follow its own convictions of duty.
+They take for granted, that the reason why men sin is not because they
+are ignorant, but because they are distracted and tempted by passion;
+that they do not need so much to be told what is their duty, as
+persuaded to do it. To me, brought up on the very battle field of
+controversial theology, accustomed to hear every religious idea guarded
+by definitions, and thoroughly hammered on a logical anvil before the
+preacher thought of making any use of it for heart or conscience,
+though I enjoyed the discourse extremely, I could not help wondering
+what an American theological professor would make of such a sermon.
+
+To preach on faith, hope, and charity all in one discourse--why, we
+should have six sermons on the nature of faith to begin with: on
+speculative faith; saving faith; practical faith, and the faith of
+miracles; then we should have the laws of faith, and the connection of
+faith with evidence, and the nature of evidence, and the different kinds
+of evidence, and so on. For my part I have had a suspicion since I have
+been here, that a touch of this kind of thing might improve English
+preaching; as, also, I do think that sermons of the kind I have
+described would be useful, by way of alterative, among us. If I could
+have but one of the two manners, I should prefer our own, because I
+think that this habit of preaching is one of the strongest educational
+forces that forms the mind of our country.
+
+After the service was over I went into the vestry, and was introduced to
+Mr. Noel. The congregation of the established church, to which he
+ministered during his connection with it, are still warmly attached to
+him. His leaving them was a dreadful trial; some of them can scarcely
+mention his name without tears. C. says, with regard to the church
+singing, as far as he heard it, it is twenty years behind that in
+Boston. In the afternoon I staid at home to nurse Mr. S. A note from
+Lady John Russell inviting us there.
+
+Monday, May 9. I should tell you that at the Duchess of Sutherland's an
+artist, named Burnard, presented me with a very fine cameo head of
+Wilberforce, cut from a statue in Westminster Abbey. He is from
+Cornwall, in the south of England, and has attained some celebrity as an
+artist. He wanted to take a bust of me; and though it always makes me
+laugh to think of having a new likeness, considering the melancholy
+results of all former enterprises, yet still I find myself easy to be
+entreated, in hopes, as Mr. Micawber says, that something may "turn up,"
+though I fear the difficulty is radical in the subject. So I made an
+appointment with Mr. Burnard, and my very kind friend, Mr. B., in
+addition to all the other confusions I have occasioned in his mansion,
+consented to have his study turned into a studio. Upon the heels of this
+comes another sculptor, who has a bust begun, which he says is going to
+be finished in Parian, and published whether I sit for it or not,
+though, of course, he would much prefer to get a look at me now and
+then. Well, Mr. B. says he may come, too; so there you may imagine me in
+the study, perched upon a very high stool, dividing my glances between
+the two sculptors, one of whom, is taking one side of my face, and one
+the other.
+
+To-day I went with Mr. and Mrs. B. to hear the examination of a
+borough-school for boys. Mrs. B. told me it was not precisely a charity
+school, but one where the means of education were furnished at so cheap
+a rate, that the poorest classes could enjoy them. Arrived at the hall,
+we found quite a number of _distingues_, bishops, lords, and clergy,
+besides numbers of others assembled to hear. The room was hung round
+with the drawings of the boys, and specimens of handwriting. I was quite
+astonished at some of them. They were executed by pen, pencil, or
+crayon--drawings of machinery, landscapes, heads, groups, and flowers,
+all in a style which any parent among us would be proud to exhibit, if
+done by our own children. The boys looked very bright and intelligent,
+and I was delighted with the system, of instruction which had evidently
+been pursued with them. We heard them first in the reading and
+recitation of poetry; after that in arithmetic and algebra, then in
+natural philosophy, and last, and most satisfactorily, in the Bible. It
+was perfectly evident from the nature of the questions and answers, that
+it was not a crammed examination, and that the readiness of reply
+proceeded not from a mere commitment of words, but from a system of
+intellectual training, which led to a good understanding of the subject.
+In arithmetic and algebra the answers were so remarkable as to induce
+the belief in some that the boys must have been privately prepared on
+their questions; but the teacher desired Lord John Russell to write down
+any number of questions which he wished to have given to the toys to
+solve, from his own mind. Lord John wrote down two or three problems,
+and I was amused at the zeal and avidity with which the boys seized upon
+and mastered them. Young England was evidently wide awake, and the prime
+minister himself was not to catch them, napping. The little fellows'
+eyes-glistened as they rattled off their solutions. As I know nothing
+about mathematics, I was all the more impressed; but when they came to
+be examined in the Bible, I was more astonished than ever. The masters
+had said that they would be willing any of the gentlemen should question
+them, and Mr. B. commenced a course of questions on the doctrines of
+Christianity; asking, Is there any text by which you can prove this, or
+that? and immediately, with great accuracy, the boys would cite text
+upon text, quoting not only the more obvious ones, but sometimes
+applying Scripture with an ingenuity and force which I had not thought
+of, and always quoting chapter and verse of every text. I do not know
+who is at the head of this teaching, nor how far it is a sample of
+English schools; but I know that these boys had been wonderfully well
+taught, and I felt all my old professional enthusiasm arising.
+
+After the examination Lord John came forward, and gave the boys a good
+fatherly talk. He told them that they had the happiness to live under a
+free government, where all offices are alike open to industry and merit,
+and where any boy might hope by application and talent to rise to any
+station below that of the sovereign. He made some sensible, practical
+comments, on their Scripture lessons, and, in short, gave precisely such
+a kind of address as one of our New England judges or governors might to
+schoolboys in similar circumstances. Lord John hesitates a little in his
+delivery, but has a plain, common-sense way of "speaking right on,"
+which seems to be taking. He is a very simple man in his manners,
+apparently not at all self-conscious, and entered into the feelings of
+the boys and the masters with good-natured sympathy, which was very
+winning. I should think he was one of the kind of men who are always
+perfectly easy and self-possessed let what will come, and who never
+could be placed in a situation in which he did not feel himself quite at
+home, and perfectly competent to do whatever was to be done.
+
+To-day the Duchess of Sutherland called with the Duchess of Argyle. Miss
+Greenfield happened to be present, and I begged leave to present her,
+giving a slight sketch of her history. I was pleased with the kind and
+easy affability with which the Duchess of Sutherland conversed with her,
+betraying by no inflection of voice, and nothing in air or manner, the
+great lady talking with the poor girl. She asked all her questions with
+as much delicacy, and made her request to hear her sing with as much
+consideration and politeness, as if she had been addressing any one in
+her own circle. She seemed much pleased with her singing, and remarked
+that she should be happy to give her an opportunity of performing in
+Stafford House, so soon as she should be a little relieved of a heavy
+cold which seemed to oppress her at present. This, of course, will be
+decisive in her favor in London. The duchess is to let us know when the
+arrangement is completed.
+
+I never realized so much that there really is no natural prejudice
+against color in the human mind. Miss Greenfield is a dark mulattress,
+of a pleasing and gentle face, though by no means handsome. She is short
+and thick set, with a chest of great amplitude, as one would think on
+hearing her tenor. I have never seen in any of the persons to whom I
+have presented her the least indications of suppressed surprise or
+disgust, any more than we should exhibit on the reception of a
+dark-complexioned Spaniard or Portuguese. Miss Greenfield bears her
+success with much quietness and good sense.
+
+Tuesday, May 10. C. and I were to go to-day, with Mrs. Cropper and Lady
+Hatherton, to call on the poet Rogers. I was told that he was in very
+delicate health, but that he still received friends at his house. We
+found the house a perfect cabinet collection of the most rare and costly
+works of art--choicest marbles, vases, pictures, gems, and statuary met
+the eye every where. We spent the time in examining some of these while
+the servant went to announce us. The mild and venerable old man himself
+was the choicest picture of all. He has a splendid head, a benign face,
+and reminded me of an engraving I once saw of Titian. He seemed very
+glad to see us, spoke to me of the gathering at Stafford House, and
+asked me what I thought of the place. When I expressed my admiration, he
+said, "Ah, I have often said it is a fairy palace, and that the duchess
+is the good fairy." Again, he said, "I have seen all the palaces of
+Europe, but there is none that I prefer to this." Quite a large circle
+of friends now came in and were presented. He did not rise to receive
+them, but sat back in his easy chair, and conversed quietly with us all,
+sparkling out now and then in a little ripple of playfulness. In this
+room were his best beloved pictures, and it is his pleasure to show them
+to his friends.
+
+By a contrivance quite new to me, the pictures are made to revolve on a
+pivot, so that by touching a spring they move out from the wall, and can
+be seen in different lights. There was a picture over the mantel-piece
+of a Roman Triumphal Procession, painted by Rubens, which attracted my
+attention by its rich coloring and spirited representation of animals.
+
+The coloring of Rubens always satisfies my eye better than that of any
+other master, only a sort of want of grace in the conception disturbs
+me. In this case both conception and coloring are replete with beauty.
+Rogers seems to be carefully waited on by an attendant who has learned
+to interpret every motion and anticipate every desire.
+
+I took leave of him with a touch of sadness. Of all the brilliant circle
+of poets, which has so delighted us, he is the last--and he so feeble!
+His memories, I am told, extend back to a personal knowledge of Dr.
+Johnson. How I should like to sit by him, and search into that cabinet
+of recollections! He presented me his poems, beautifully illustrated by
+Turner, with his own autograph on the fly leaf. He writes still a clear,
+firm, beautiful hand, like a lady's.
+
+After that, we all went over to Stafford House, and the Duke and
+Duchess of Sutherland went with us into Lord Ellesmere's collection
+adjoining. Lord Ellesmere sails for America to-day, to be present at the
+opening of the Crystal Palace. He left us a very polite message. The
+Duchess of Argyle, with her two little boys, was there also. Lord
+Carlisle very soon came in, and with him--who do you think? Tell Hattie
+and Eliza if they could have seen the noble staghound that came bounding
+in with him, they would have turned from all the pictures on the wall to
+this living work of art.
+
+Landseer thinks he does well when he paints a dog; another man chisels
+one in stone: what would they think of themselves if they could string
+the nerves and muscles, and wake up the affections and instincts, of the
+real, living creature? That were to be an artist indeed! The dog walked
+about the gallery, much at home, putting his nose up first to one and
+then another of the distinguished persons by whom he was surrounded; and
+once in a while stopping, in an easy race about the hall, would plant
+himself before a picture, with his head on one side, and an air of
+high-bred approval, much as I have seen young gentlemen do in similar
+circumstances. All he wanted was an eyeglass, and he would have been
+perfectly set up as a critic.
+
+As for the pictures, I have purposely delayed coming to them. Imagine a
+botanist dropped into the middle of a blooming prairie, waving with
+unnumbered dyes and forms of flowers, and only an hour to examine and
+make acquaintance with them! Room, after room we passed, filled with
+Titians, Murillos, Guidos, &c. There were four Raphaels, the first I had
+ever seen. Must I confess the truth? Raphael had been my dream for
+years. I expected something which would overcome and bewilder me. I
+expected a divine baptism, a celestial mesmerism; and I found four very
+beautiful pictures--pictures which left me quite in possession of my
+senses, and at liberty to ask myself, am I pleased, and how much? It was
+not that I did not admire, for I did; but that I did not admire enough.
+The pictures are all holy families, cabinet size: the figures, Mary,
+Joseph, the infant Jesus, and John, in various attitudes. A little
+perverse imp in my heart suggested the questions, "If a modern artist
+had painted these, what would be thought of them? If I did not know it
+was Raphael, what should I think?" And I confess that, in that case, I
+should think that there was in one or two of them a certain hardness and
+sharpness of outline that was not pleasing to me. Neither, any more than
+Murillo, has he in these pictures shadowed forth, to my eye, the idea of
+Mary. Protestant as I am, no Catholic picture contents me. I thought to
+myself that I had seen among living women, and in a face not far off, a
+nobler and sweeter idea of womanhood.
+
+It is too much to ask of any earthly artist, however, to gratify the
+aspirations and cravings of those who have dreamed of them for years
+unsatisfied. Perhaps no earthly canvas and brash can accomplish this
+marvel. I think the idealist must lay aside his highest ideal, and be
+satisfied he shall never meet it, and then he will begin to enjoy. With
+this mood and understanding I did enjoy very much an Assumption of the
+Virgin, by Guido, and more especially Diana and her Nymphs, by Titian:
+in this were that softness of outline, and that blending of light and
+shadow into each other, of which I felt the want in the Raphaels. I felt
+as if there was a perfection of cultivated art in this, a classical
+elegance, which, so far as it went, left the eye or mind nothing to
+desire. It seemed to me that Titian was a Greek painter, the painter of
+an etherealized sensuousness, which leaves the spiritual nature wholly
+unmoved, and therefore all that he attempts he attains. Raphael, on the
+contrary, has spiritualism; his works enter a sphere where at is more
+difficult to satisfy the soul; nay, perhaps from the nature of the case,
+impossible.
+
+There were some glorious pieces of sunshine by Cuyp. There was a massive
+sea piece by Turner, in which the strong solemn swell of the green
+waves, and the misty wreathings of clouds, were powerfully given.
+
+There was a highly dramatic piece, by Paul de la Roche, representing
+Charles I. in a guard room, insulted by the soldiery. He sits, pale,
+calm, and resolute, while they are puffing tobacco smoke in his face,
+and passing vulgar jokes. His thoughts appear to be far away, his eyes
+looking beyond them with an air of patient, proud weariness.
+
+Independently of the pleasure one receives from particular pictures in
+these galleries, there is a general exaltation, apart from, critical
+considerations, an excitement of the nerves, a kind of dreamy state,
+which is a gain in our experience. Often in a landscape we first single
+out particular objects,--this old oak,--that cascade,--that ruin,--and
+derive from them, an individual joy; then relapsing, we view the
+landscape as a whole, and seem, to be surrounded by a kind of atmosphere
+of thought, the result of the combined influence of all. This state,
+too, I think is not without its influence in educating the aesthetic
+sense.
+
+Even in pictures which we comparatively reject, because we see them, in
+the presence of superior ones, there is a wealth of beauty which would
+grow on us from day to day, could we see them, often. When I give a sigh
+to the thought that in our country we are of necessity, to a great
+extent, shut from the world of art, I then rejoice in the inspiriting
+thought that Nature is ever the superior. No tree painting can compare
+with a splendid elm, in the plenitude of its majesty. There are
+colorings beyond those of Rubens poured forth around us in every autumn
+scene; there are Murillos smiling by our household firesides; and as for
+Madonnas and Venuses, I think with Byron,--
+
+  "I've seen more splendid women, ripe and real,
+  Than all the nonsense of their stone ideal."
+
+Still, I long for the full advent of our American, day of art, already
+dawning auspiciously.
+
+After finishing our inspection, we went back to Stafford House to lunch.
+
+In the evening we went to Lord John Russell's. We found Lady Russell and
+her daughters sitting quietly around the evening lamp, quite by
+themselves. She is elegant and interesting in her personal appearance,
+and has the same charm of simplicity and sincerity of manner which we
+have found in so marry of the upper sphere. She is the daughter of the
+Earl of Minto, and the second wife of Lord John. We passed here an
+entirely quiet and domestic evening, with only the family circle. The
+conversation turned on various topics of practical benevolence,
+connected with the care and education of the poorer classes. Allusion
+being made to Mrs. Tyler's letter, Lady Russell expressed some concern
+lest the sincere and well-intended expression of the feeling of the
+English ladies might have done harm. I said that I did not think the
+spirit of Mrs. Tyler's letter was to be taken as representing the
+feeling of American ladies generally,--only of that class who are
+determined to maintain the rightfulness of slavery.
+
+It seems to me that the better and more thinking part of the higher
+classes in England have conscientiously accepted the responsibility
+which the world has charged upon them of elevating and educating the
+poorer classes. In every circle since I have been here in England, I
+have heard the subject discussed as one of paramount importance.
+
+One or two young gentlemen dropped in in the course of the evening, and
+the discourse branched out on the various topics of the day; such as the
+weather, literature, art, spiritual rappings, and table turnings, and
+all the floating et ceteras of life. Lady Russell apologized for the
+absence of Lord John in Parliament, and invited us to dine with, them at
+their residence in Richmond Park next week, when there is to be a
+parliamentary recess.
+
+We left about ten o'clock, and went to pass the night with our friends
+Mr. and Mrs. Cropper at their hotel, being engaged to breakfast at the
+West End in the morning.
+
+END OF VOLUME I.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote A: Since my return to the United States I have been informed
+that the Freewill Baptist denomination have adopted the same rigid
+principle of slavery exclusion that characterizes the Scotch Seceders
+and the Quakers. Let this be known to their honor.]
+
+[Footnote B: This venerated, and erudite jurist, the friend and
+biographer of the celebrated Lord Jeffrey, has recently died.]
+
+[Footnote C: This, alas! is no longer true. By the recent passage of the
+infamous Nebraska bill, this whole region, with the exception of two
+states already organized, is laid open to slavery. This faithless
+measure was nobly resisted by a large and able minority in
+Congress--honor to them.]
+
+[Footnote D: This most learned and amiable judge recently died, while in
+the very act of charging a jury.]
+
+[Footnote E: This resolution, drawn and offered, I think, by my
+hospitable friend, Mr. Binney, I have mislaid, and cannot find it. It
+was, however, in character and spirit, just what Mr. James here declares
+it to be.]
+
+[Footnote F: I have been told since my return, that there are some
+slaveholding Congregational churches in the south; but they have no
+connection with our New England churches, and certainly are not
+generally known as Congregationalists distinct from the Presbyterians.]
+
+[Footnote G: This has always been supposed and claimed in the United
+States. Now the time has come to test its truth. If there is this
+antislavery feeling in nine tenths of the people, the impudent iniquity
+of the Nebraska bill will call it forth.]
+
+[Footnote H: Eight years ago I conscientiously approved and zealously
+defended this course of the American Board. Subsequent events have
+satisfied me, that, in the present circumstances of our country, making
+concessions to slaveholders, however slightly, and with whatever
+motives, even if not wrong in principle, is productive of no good. It
+does but strengthen slavery, and makes its demands still more
+exorbitant, and neutralizes the power of gospel truth.]
+
+[Footnote I: This state of things is fast changing. Church members at
+the south now defend slavery as right. This is a new thing.]
+
+[Footnote J: When your chimney has smoked as long as ours, it will, may
+be, need sweeping too.]
+
+[Footnote K: Had I known all about New York and Boston which recent
+examinations have developed, I should have answered very differently.
+The fact is, that we in America can no longer congratulate ourselves on
+not having a degraded and miserable class in our cities, and it will be
+seen to be necessary for us to arouse to the very same efforts which,
+have been so successfully making in England.]
+
+[Footnote L: This idea is beautifully wrought out by Mrs. Jamieson in
+her Characteristics of the Women of Shakspeare, to which, the author is
+indebted for the suggestion.]
+
+[Footnote M: James Russell Lowell's "Beaver Brook."]
+
+[Footnote N: The hymns beginning with, these lines, "If human, kindness
+meet return," and "Behold where, in a mortal form," are specimens.]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Sunny Memories Of Foreign Lands,
+Volume 1 (of 2), by Harriet Elizabeth (Beecher) Stowe
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SUNNY MEMORIES ***
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