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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13890 ***
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+ file which includes the original lovely illustrations.
+ See 13890-h.htm or 13890-h.zip:
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/3/8/9/13890/13890-h/13890-h.htm)
+ or
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/3/8/9/13890/13890-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+BEAUTIFUL BRITAIN
+
+Canterbury
+
+by
+
+GORDON HOME
+
+MCMXI
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+ "When that Aprillé with his showerés soote [= sweet]
+ The drought of March hath piercéd to the roote,
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ "Then longen folk to go on pilgrimages,
+ And palmers for to seeken strangé strands,
+ To ferme [=ancient] halwes [=shrines] knowthe [=known] in sundry lands
+ And specially from every shirés end
+ Of Engéland, to Canterbury they wend,
+ The holy, blissful martyr for to seek
+ That them hath holpen when that they were sick."
+
+ CHAUCER: _Canterbury Tales_.
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+ CHAPTER
+ I. THE PILGRIM'S APPROACH TO THE CITY
+ II. THE STORY OF CANTERBURY
+ III. THE CATHEDRAL
+ IV. THE CITY
+ INDEX
+
+
+ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+ PLATE
+
+ 1. THE NAVE OF CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL (Frontispiece)
+ 2. CHRIST CHURCH GATE
+ 3. THE CATHEDRAL FROM NORTH-WEST
+ 4. THE "ANGEL" OR "BELL HARRY" TOWER AND THE LAVATORY TOWER OF THE
+ CATHEDRAL
+ 5. THE CHAPEL OF "OUR LADY" IN THE UNDERCROFT OF THE CATHEDRAL
+ 6. THE WARRIOR'S CHAPEL
+ 7. THE MARTYRDOM IN THE NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT
+ 8. THE DOORWAY FROM THE CLOISTERS TO THE MARTYRDOM
+ 9. THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE IN CANTERBURY
+ 10. THE HOUSE OF THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS
+ 11. WESTGATE CANTERBURY FROM WITHIN
+ 12. THE NORMAN STAIRCASE TO THE KING'S SCHOOL (On the cover)
+
+
+
+[Illustration: PLAN OF CANTERBURY, SHOWING THE CHIEF STREETS AND THE
+ MOST INTERESTING BUILDINGS.
+REFERENCE
+ A. Mercery Lane.
+ B. St. Peter's Church.
+ C. All Saints' Church.
+ D. St. Margaret's Church.
+ E. Poor Priests' Hospital.
+ F. St. Margarets Street.
+ G. Green Court.
+ H. Archbishops' Palace.
+ J. Norman Staircase.
+ K. St. George's Church.
+ L. Site Of Roman Gate.
+ M. Greyfriars.
+ N. Christ Church Gate.
+ O. St. Alphege's Church.
+ P. St. Mary Bredin Church]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE PILGRIM'S APPROACH TO THE CITY
+
+
+It was on April 24, 1538, that a writ of summons was sent forth in the
+name of Henry VIII., "To thee, Thomas Becket, some time Archbishop of
+Canterbury"--who had then been dead for 368 years--"to appear within
+thirty days to answer to a charge of treason, contumacy, and rebellion
+against his sovereign lord, King Henry II." But the days passed, and no
+spirit having stirred the venerated bones of the wonder-working saint,
+on June 10 judgment was given in favour of Henry, and it was decreed
+that the Archbishop's bones were to be burnt, and his world-famous
+shrine overlaid with gold and sparkling with jewels was to be
+forfeited to the Crown. Further than this went the sentence, for
+Thomas of Canterbury was to be a saint no longer, and his name and
+memory were to be wiped out. The remains were not burned, but
+throughout the land every statue, wall-painting, and window to the
+said Thomas Becket was rigorously searched out and destroyed, and from
+every record his name was carefully erased. And so it came about that
+the year 1538 saw the last pilgrimage to the shrine of St. Thomas the
+Martyr.
+
+A growing incredulity had prepared the way for this wave of
+iconoclasm, and the shrine once destroyed ended for ever this first
+phase of the Canterbury pilgrimages. It might have been truly thought,
+if anyone ever gave a moment to such speculations a century ago, when
+Englishmen cared little for the landmarks of their island story, that
+the last pilgrim who would ever wend his way along the old road to
+Canterbury had died in the sixteenth century, and yet how profoundly
+untrue would that impression have been in the light of the new
+enthusiasm for the site of the shrine! A considerable literature on
+the Pilgrims' Way from Winchester has already sprung up, and this
+little book is itself a souvenir for the pilgrim to carry away as
+evidence of the journey he has made, provided he cares to write
+inside the cover his name, the date of his visit, and the two words
+"at Canterbury."
+
+Now, I do not disguise the fact that many of the twentieth-century
+pilgrims are not possessed of the true spirit of the devotee, and
+instead of approaching the object of their journey by the old-time
+way, along the beautiful hills of Surrey and Kent, they use the iron
+road which rushes them all unprepared into the city of the
+saint-martyr. But who will maintain that all those who formed the
+motley throng of the medieval pilgrimages came with their minds
+properly attuned, and who is prepared to say that because the majority
+of modern pilgrims consummate their aim by using the convenience of
+the railway they are less devout than Chaucer's merchant,
+serjeant-at-law, doctor of physic, and the rest who rode on
+horseback--the most convenient, rapid, and comfortable method of
+travel then available?
+
+There is, however, a material disadvantage suffered by those who use
+the railway, in that they miss the first view of the Cathedral city
+set in the midst of soft-swelling eocene hills, which comes as the
+first stage of the gradual unfolding of the tragic story. The
+lukewarm pilgrim should therefore remember that he will add vastly to
+the richness of his impressions if he deserts his train at Selling or
+Chartham and walks the rest of the way over Harbledown, where he will
+see the little city of the Middle Ages encircled with its ancient wall
+and crowned by the towers of its cathedral very much as did the
+cosmopolitan groups of travel-soiled men and women who for century
+after century feasted their eyes from the selfsame spot.
+
+[Illustration: CHRIST CHURCH GATEWAY, CANTERBURY.
+This beautiful entrance to the Cathedral precincts was built between
+1507 and 1517. The richly sculptured stone has weathered exceedingly.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+THE STORY OF CANTERBURY
+
+
+It would be a mistake to imagine that it solely was due to that bloody
+deed perpetrated on a certain December afternoon back in Norman times
+that Canterbury occupies a place of such pre-eminence in English
+history, for the city was ancient before the days of Thomas of
+Canterbury; and in this short chapter it is the writer's endeavour to
+indicate the position of that tragic occurrence in the chronology of
+the former Kentish capital.
+
+The earliest people who have left evidence of their existence near
+Canterbury belong to the Palæolithic Age; but as it is not known
+whether this remote prehistoric population occupied the actual site,
+or even whether the valley may not have then been a salt-water creek,
+it is wiser in this brief sketch to pass over these primitive people
+and the lake-dwellers who, after a considerable interval, were
+possibly their successors, and come to the surer ground of history.
+This brings us to the early Roman invasions of Britain and Julius
+Cæsar's description of the people of Kent, whose civilization he found
+on a higher level than in the other parts he penetrated. He described
+them as being little different in their manner of living from the
+Gauls, whose houses were built of planks and willow-branches, roofed
+with thatch, and were large and circular in form, but he adds:
+
+ All the Britons dye themselves with woad, which gives them a
+ bluish colour, and so makes them very dreadful in battle. They
+ have long hair, and shave all the body except the head and
+ upper lip.
+
+These people, owning allegiance to various chiefs and living in camps
+or villages defended by earthen ramparts, were attacked by the Roman
+expeditions which invaded Britain in the opening years of the
+Christian Era, and there is evidence for believing that there was a
+British settlement of considerable importance on the site of
+Canterbury. Of this there remains a lofty artificial mound, now known
+as the Dane John--another form of the familiar donjon. The Romans
+called it Durovernum, a name perhaps derived from the British
+Derwhern, and although their historians are curiously silent in
+regard to the place there cannot be any doubt that the town rose to
+great importance in the later years of the four centuries of the Roman
+occupation of Britain. A glance at a map of the Roman roads in Kent
+shows Durovernum as a centre for five great ways leading from the
+coast towns of Portus Lemanis (Lymne), Portus Dubris (Dover), Portus
+Ritupis (Richborough, near Sandwich), Regulbium (Reculver), and also
+the Isle of Thanet, and from this important centre the Watling Street
+ran straight to Londinium. These roads all converge upon the spot
+where the River Stour became a tidal estuary and where it was
+fordable, and all who arrived or departed from the ports nearest to
+Gaul would therefore of necessity pass that way. Another indication of
+the size of the town is found in the five Roman burial-places
+discovered close to Canterbury, and if anything else were needed it is
+only necessary to look at the walls of St. Augustine's Abbey and many
+other buildings of the Middle Ages to see the large quantities of
+Roman material then available. Wherever any excavation has taken place
+in the heart of the present city, the foundations of Roman buildings
+with tesselated pavements and quantities of pottery, small objects of
+domestic use, and coins have been brought to light. These remains are
+all far beneath the present surface, a most significant fact in
+relation to the transition period between Roman and Saxon Canterbury.
+
+The Romans having finally abandoned Britain early in the fifth
+century, the invasions of the Anglo-Saxons began to take a permanent
+form, and the Jutes gained possession of the south-eastern corner of
+England. During the period of struggle between the rival groups of
+invaders Durovernum must have been entirely abandoned by the Britons,
+and the conquerors, having reduced the city to a shapeless ruin,
+appear to have allowed it to become over-grown to such an extent that
+when, after a lapse of perhaps a whole century, the town was rebuilt,
+no attempt was made to dig down to the former surface. The new
+buildings therefore arose with their foundations some feet above the
+original level of the Romano-British city. So complete was the gap
+between the destroyed Durovernum and the Saxon town which eventually
+grew up that men had had time to forget the old name, and, finding it
+necessary to invent one, called it Cantwarabyrig, which meant the
+city of the men of Kent. This title reveals the fact that the new
+settlers had by this time fixed their limits in Kent, and that they
+had found this site at the junction of all the Roman roads the most
+convenient for their capital. It was probably not until Ethelbert had
+begun to reign in 561 that Canterbury became the most important place
+in Kent, and at that time the site of the Cathedral was outside the
+town walls. Ethelbert, it should be mentioned, had extended his power
+so far beyond the confines of Kent that he had authority as far north
+as the Humber, and Bede writes of "the city of Canterbury, which was
+the metropolis of all his dominions."
+
+Up to the year 597 this Saxon capital, of practically all
+south-eastern England, was completely heathen, saving only the King's
+Frankish wife Bertha and Bishop Luidhard, who had come over as her
+chaplain about the year 575, when the marriage with the heathen
+Ethelbert had taken place. But in the year 597, that famous landmark
+in the Christianizing of Saxon England, Augustine, landed--if Bede may
+be trusted for a topographical detail of this character--on the island
+of Ebbsfleet, where Hengist and Horsa had previously found a haven
+for their vessels. This is now part of the corner of Kent, called
+Thanet, and is an island no longer. There Ethelbert, in that generous
+and broad-minded speech, familiar to all students of English history,
+while expressing himself as content with the gods of his forefathers
+(these included Thor, Woden, Freya, and the rest), yet would place no
+obstacles in the way of these missionaries of new and strange ideas.
+He even provided them with quarters in Canterbury, and in the old
+church of St. Martin outside the city, where Queen Bertha had been in
+the habit of worshipping with her chaplain, Augustine and his monks
+began to preach and instruct all who cared to listen. It seems
+unlikely that the influence of the queen and her good chaplain should
+have been entirely without results, and it is quite possible that
+Augustine found the ground prepared for the seed he diligently began
+to sow. Bishop Luidhard, whose name should always be linked with that
+of St. Augustine, appears to have died soon after the arrival of Pope
+Gregory's mission, and his remains were eventually placed in a golden
+chest in the church of Saints Peter and Paul, afterwards St.
+Augustine's.
+
+The zeal and enthusiasm of the band of missionaries began to bring in
+many converts. Ethelbert himself consented to be baptized on June 2 in
+the year of Augustine's landing, and the Saxons soon began to embrace
+the new faith in thousands, so that in a very few years the
+Christianizing of England had made such progress that Canterbury
+became the headquarters of the Christian Church in England, a position
+it has held without interruption ever since--a period of over 1,300
+years. It took England nearly nine centuries to make up its mind to
+rid itself of the stultifying authority of the Bishop of Rome and to
+shake itself free from monasticism and the various forms of idolatrous
+worship which grew up in the sultry atmosphere of the Papal Church;
+but these great changes have been evolved, and still the ancient city
+of Canterbury, hallowed with so many memories of saintly lives,
+continues to be the metropolis of the Established Church of England.
+And the imminence of further change carries with it no danger of any
+break in this long association of Canterbury with ecclesiastical
+control, for if in the slow grinding of the wheels of Time there
+should cease to be a State Church in this land, the organization of
+the churches holding to the Elizabethan form of worship will no doubt
+continue to be centred and focussed at Canterbury.
+
+[Illustration: CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM THE NORTH WEST.
+The state central or "Bell Harry" Tower is one of the most beautiful
+works of the Perpendicular period in existence.]
+
+As the first church mentioned in history associated with Christian
+worship St. Martin's occupies a unique position, and yet the fabric of
+the little building does not conclusively prove that it is even in
+part the actual church of this fascinating period. Cautious
+archæologists, represented by Mr. J. T. Micklethwaite, regard the
+earliest work in St. Martin's as belonging to the Saxon period, Roman
+materials having merely been worked up by the later builders. On the
+other hand, there are various careful antiquaries who are willing to
+accept the oldest parts of the church as Roman, and claim that St.
+Martin's is a Christian church put up during the Roman occupation.
+Perhaps the problem will be solved by further discoveries, but until
+then it seems wiser to regard St. Martin's as being in part a very
+early Saxon building, very probably standing on the site of the
+restored Roman church in which Queen Bertha worshipped before
+Augustine's arrival. Even if it were possible to state that parts of
+the walls were Roman, it would not be an easy matter to say whether
+the building were older than the two early Christian churches of
+North Cornwall, preserved through the ages by the drifting sand of
+that exposed coastline; therefore, to write, as so many have done,
+that St. Martin's is the oldest Christian church in England, is not
+justified by the facts. Besides St. Martin's, William Thorne, a
+fourteenth century chronicler, makes mention of "a temple or
+idol-place where Ethelbert had been wont to pray and to sacrifice to
+demons," and this building, instead of being destroyed, was purged
+from its defilements and idols and hallowed by Augustine when he
+dedicated it to St. Pancras the Roman boy-martyr. When the site, about
+halfway between St. Martin's and St. Augustine's, was excavated in
+1901, it was found to possess a nave about 47 feet long by 26 feet
+wide, with an apsidal chancel nearly the same width and depth
+separated from the nave by four Roman columns, and Mr. W.H. St. John
+Hope, of the Society of Antiquaries, who carried out the operations
+with Canon Routledge, has suggested that this may be the first church
+built by Augustine out of Roman materials ready to hand, while the
+larger one, dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, a little to the west,
+was slowly being constructed. It was not finished when, in 605,
+Augustine died, and eventually the dedication included the canonized
+first archbishop of the English Church, who was buried in the building
+when it was finished. The other great figures of the period--Ethelbert
+and his Queen, and her chaplain--were also laid to rest in the church.
+A few years ago it was only possible to form an idea of this large
+structure from the Norman north wall of the nave and part of the
+north-west tower, but now that nearly the whole of the eastern end has
+been excavated one can see the underground portion of practically all
+the east end and part of the north transept. Ethelbert's son, Eadbald,
+having been converted two years after his accession, built another
+church east of that of Saints Peter and Paul, and this was joined on
+to the abbey church when the east end was extended about the time of
+the Norman Conquest. At the same time as he began the monastery
+subsequently called after him, Augustine appears to have made his
+headquarters close to another early Christian church within the walls
+of the Saxon city. This, according to Bede, was hallowed "in the name
+of the Holy Saviour," and thus arose the name Christ Church--the name
+the cathedral now bears. In these early times there were therefore
+five Christian churches either restored or under construction, and
+they were all roughly in a line running east and west. First there was
+Christ Church and Augustine's residence--eventually the priory--within
+the walls, then the embryo abbey of Saints Peter and Paul, with the
+chapel of St. Mary a little to the east. Farther still was the church
+of St. Pancras, and farthest from the city walls, on its little hill,
+St. Martin's. There are other traces of Saxon work in the church of
+St. Mildred near the castle, but this is much later than anything that
+has been discovered on the other sites, and Dr. Cox points out what he
+claims as pre-Conquest work in St. Dunstan's outside the city, on the
+Whitstable Road.
+
+Canterbury appears to have grown and prospered in spite of various
+attacks made by the Danes until the year 1011, when the city, after a
+defence lasting nearly three weeks, fell into the hands of the
+invaders through treachery from within. Alphege, the good old
+archbishop, was obliged to witness the savagery of the Danes when they
+burst through the gates and began a horrible slaughter, which included
+the monks of Christ Church, and it is said that about 7,000 Saxons
+perished. Not content with all this butchery, they burnt the
+cathedral. Archbishop Alphege was carried off by the victorious Danes,
+who at Greenwich gave way to drunken excesses, and in brutal fashion
+killed their prisoner. The body was brought from London, where it had
+been buried, back to Canterbury ten years later by Canute, the first
+Danish King of England, who made what atonement he could by lending
+his freshly painted state barge for the ceremonious translation of the
+martyr's remains. Arrived at Canterbury, the King proceeded to further
+demonstrate his submission to the Church his people had devastated by
+hanging up his crown in the cathedral which Alphege's successor,
+Archbishop Living, had reroofed. Canute, having made a journey to Rome
+in 1031, among other pious resolutions, declared that he would amend
+his life and conversation, and it was with his help that the Saxon
+cathedral was properly repaired and decorated.
+
+During the year following the Norman Conquest a fire began in
+Canterbury, which, besides destroying many houses, reduced the
+unfortunate cathedral to a roofless ruin once more. Three years
+later, in 1070, when Lanfranc was made the first Norman archbishop, he
+decided that the Saxon walls were worthless, and he swept away every
+trace of the building, which may have been partially Roman, before
+proceeding to erect a larger and grander pile in the Norman style
+familiar to him. One feature of the original church has, nevertheless,
+left its mark on the Norman cathedral. This was a crypt described by
+Eadmer, the monkish historian, who, as a boy, saw the Saxon church
+being demolished. It was only a small affair, but it must have been
+the most remarkable feature of the comparatively small oblong
+building, for it was not, properly speaking, a crypt at all, but an
+undercroft beneath the eastern altars. "To reach these altars," says
+Eadmer, "a certain crypt, which the Romans call a confessionary, had
+to be ascended by means of several steps from the choir of the
+singers. Thus the Norman archbishop, in planning a larger cathedral,
+constructed a crypt under the choir of his new building, and the steps
+one ascends to-day are there as the direct outcome of the structural
+methods of rude Saxon times."
+
+Lanfranc completed his new cathedral in 1077, and in his lifetime he
+also founded the great Benedictine priory of Christ Church, whose
+considerable remains add so much medievalism to the surroundings of
+the vast cathedral. Anselm succeeded Lanfranc after an interval of a
+few years, during which Rufus found it exceedingly desirable to keep
+the see vacant while the revenues were diverted into the royal
+coffers, and scarcely twenty years after his predecessor's church was
+finished, Prior Ernulph pulled down the east end and constructed in
+its place the magnificent Norman choir, with its transepts and chapels
+standing with various alterations to-day. This great work was finished
+by Prior Conrad, who succeeded Ernulph, and the noble work, which
+became known as Conrad's Choir, was consecrated in 1130 by Archbishop
+de Corbeuil. To make this bald statement and omit to mention the
+ceremony attending it would be misleading; for not only were Henry I.
+and David of Scotland present, but Canterbury saw such a gathering of
+dignitaries of Church and State with their splendid retinues that the
+historian found nothing to compare with it but Solomon's dedication of
+the Temple!
+
+This splendid church, representing the finest achievement of Norman
+master-builders and workmen, rising high above the domestic quarters
+of the monastery and standing forth conspicuously from every part of
+the little walled city, then consisting, to a considerable extent, of
+low wooden houses, had now reached the stage in its development when
+it was to be the scene of the murder which was to make Canterbury the
+most famous resort of pilgrims in Europe. This occurred forty years
+later; but no change in the great Norman church had taken place in
+that period.
+
+So thrilling is the whole story of Becket's murder that there is every
+temptation to tell again the tale of Henry II.'s hasty exclamation,
+and the headlong journey from Normandy to Canterbury made by those
+four knights whose foul deed history has not ceased to condemn; but
+for a full account the reader is advised to turn to Dean Stanley's
+"Historical Memorials of Canterbury." It was in the same year and the
+same month as his death that Becket had returned from exile to
+Canterbury after an absence of six years, and at the close of a decade
+of continual struggle with the King. The Archbishop, having landed at
+Sandwich on his arrival from France, had been received with the
+greatest enthusiasm, and the people of Canterbury showed their
+delight in every possible manner. There were imposing banquets, and
+hangings of silk were put up in the cathedral for the great occasion;
+but at the end of this December, on the gloomy afternoon of the 29th,
+the four murderers arrived in the city. The day was a Tuesday, the day
+on which all the great events of Becket's life had taken place; for
+not only had he been born on a Tuesday, but on that day he had been
+exiled, on that day he had been warned of his impending martyrdom, and
+on that day he had returned from exile.
+
+[Illustration: THE "ANGEL" OR "BELL HARRY" TOWER AND THE BAPTISTERY.
+The massive Norman work is seen here in strong contrast with the
+lightness and delicacy of the Perpendicular tower.]
+
+While leaving the long story to be told with the amazingly ample
+detail Dean Stanley was able to employ, one is tempted to quote his
+account of the first interview between Becket and the four knights,
+for too often the memory recalls nearly every fact of the murder
+except the indictment, if it may be so called. The four knights had
+discarded their weapons and concealed their armour under the cloak and
+gown of ordinary life on entering the cathedral precincts, so that on
+their first appearance in the Archbishop's private room their aspect
+was sinister without being immediately threatening. Becket had just
+finished dinner, and was seated on his couch talking to his friends
+when the four knights were announced, and he pointedly continued, his
+conversation with the monk who sat by him and on whose shoulder he was
+leaning.
+
+ They on their part entered without a word, beyond a greeting
+ exchanged in a whisper to the attendants who stood near the
+ door, and then marched straight to where the Archbishop sate,
+ and placed themselves on the floor at his feet, among the
+ clergy who were reclining around. Radulf the archer sate
+ behind them, on the boards. Becket now turned round for the
+ first time, and gazed steadfastly on each in silence, which he
+ at last broke by saluting Tracy by name. The conspirators
+ continued to look mutely at each other, till Fitzurse, who
+ throughout took the lead, replied with a scornful expression,
+ "God help you!" Becket's face grew crimson, and he glanced
+ round at their countenances, which seemed to gather fire from
+ Fitzurse's speech. Fitzurse again broke forth: "We have a
+ message from the King over the water--tell us whether you will
+ hear it in private, or in the hearing of all." "As you wish,"
+ said the Archbishop. "Nay, as _you_ wish," said Fitzurse.
+ "Nay, as _you_ wish," said Becket. The monks, at the
+ Archbishop's intimation, withdrew into an adjoining room; but
+ the doorkeeper ran up and kept the door ajar, that they might
+ see from the outside what was going on.
+
+
+Before the knights began the recital of their complaints, however,
+Becket appears to have become alarmed at the demeanour of the four
+men, who afterwards admitted that they thought of killing him then and
+there with the only weapon that was handy--a cross-staff that lay at
+his feet.
+
+ The monks hurried back, and Fitzurse, apparently calmed by
+ their presence, resumed his statement of the complaints of the
+ King. The complaints--which are given by the various
+ chroniclers in very different words--were three in number.
+ "The King over the water commands you to perform your duty to
+ the King on this side of the water, instead of taking away his
+ crown." "Rather than take away his crown," replied Becket, "I
+ would give him three or four crowns." "You have excited
+ disturbances in the kingdom, and the King requires you to
+ answer for them at his court." "Never," said the Archbishop,
+ "shall the sea again come between me and my Church, unless I
+ am dragged thence by the feet." "You have excommunicated the
+ bishops, and you must absolve them." "It was not I," replied
+ Becket, "but the Pope, and you must go to him for absolution."
+
+[Illustration: THE CHAPEL OF "OUR LADY" IN THE UNDERCROFT OF THE
+ CATHEDRAL.
+Being entirely above the ground this is not a crypt as it is so often
+miscalled. The morning light in winter fills the spaces between the
+massive Norman piers.]
+
+After some more stormy words the knights became irritated by Becket's
+contradictions, and swore "by God's wounds" that they had endured
+enough, but Becket, putting aside John of Salisbury's suggestion that
+he should speak privately to the angry knights, began to complain of
+the grievances and insults he had himself received during the preceding
+week: "They have attacked my servants," he said; "they have cut off my
+sumpter-mule's tail; they have carried off the casks of wine that were
+the King's own gift." To this Hugh de Moreville, who was the least
+aggressive of the four, replied: "Why did you not complain to the King
+of these outrages? Why did you take upon yourself to punish them by
+your own authority?" But Becket, turning sharply towards him, said:
+"Hugh! how proudly you lift up your head! When the rights of the
+Church are violated, I shall wait for no man's permission to avenge
+them. I will give to the King the things that are the King's, but to
+God the things that are God's. It is my business, and I alone will see
+to it." Taking up such an attitude in front of four men who had come
+hot-foot to Canterbury with the express determination to seek an
+excuse for killing him, Becket was sealing his own fate.
+
+ For the first time in the interview the Archbishop had assumed
+ an attitude of defiance; the fury of the knights broke at once
+ through the bonds which had partially restrained it, and
+ displayed itself openly in those impassioned gestures which
+ are now confined to the half-civilized nations of the South
+ and East, but which seem to have been natural to all classes
+ of medieval Europe. Their eyes flashed fire, they sprang upon
+ their feet, and, rushing close up to him, gnashed their teeth,
+ twisting their long gloves, and wildly threw their arms above
+ their heads. Fitzurse exclaimed: "You threaten us--you
+ threaten us! are you going to excommunicate us all?"
+
+Becket sprang up from his couch at this insulting demonstration, and
+in the state of great excitement into which he could fall when roused,
+he flung down his defiant challenge that all the swords in England
+could not shake his obedience to the Pope. The four knights, goaded to
+fury by other passionate words, left him, shouting, "To arms! to
+arms!" They made their way with an excited throng to the great
+gateway, where they armed, while the doors were closed to shut off the
+monastery from communication with the town. The Archbishop seems to
+have been fully alive to his danger, and yet he persistently refused
+to take the smallest measure for his safety, opening with his own
+hands the door from the cloisters into the north transept which some
+of the monks had closed and barred immediately after they had dragged
+the Archbishop into the nearly dark building.
+
+Vespers had just begun when the murderers entered, but the singing of
+that service was never completed. The fear of sacrilege induced the
+knights to try to drag the defenceless Archbishop out of the
+Cathedral, but he struggled with such vigour, flinging one of the men
+down on the stone floor, that they gave up the attempt and killed him
+with three or four sword strokes, the last of which, as he lay prone,
+was delivered by Richard le Bret, or the Breton, and so tremendous was
+the force with which it was delivered that the crown of the head was
+severed from the skull and the sword broke in two on the pavement.
+
+Canterbury being much divided in its attachment to Becket, the
+murderers found escape easy, and the general regrets most expressed
+seem to have been at the sacrilege rather than at the murder.
+
+It is almost incredible how rapidly Becket became St. Thomas of
+Canterbury. Within a few hours of the tragic scene, when, night having
+fallen and the great church being closed and deserted, Osbert, the
+Archbishop's chamberlain, entering with a light in his hand, found his
+master's body lying on its face, with the frightful wound exposed, the
+monks had kissed the hands and feet of the corpse and called him by
+the name of Saint Thomas. What appears to have raised the fraternity
+to this enthusiastic anticipation of the canonization, officially
+announced at Westminster in 1173, was the discovery that Becket had on
+beneath his outer robes, and the many other garments he wore, the
+black cowled cloak of the Benedictines, and next to his skin a
+hair-cloth shirt of unusual roughness. When the body was being
+prepared for the tomb this shirt was found to be easily removable for
+the daily scourging Becket had been in the habit of enduring, the
+marks of the stripes administered on the previous day being plainly
+visible. Dean Stanley adds another fact not easy to be believed by
+those who have never become intimate with the practices of medieval
+monasticism:
+
+ Such austerity had hitherto been unknown to English saints,
+ and the marvel was increased by the sight--to our notions so
+ revolting--of the innumerable vermin with which the hair-cloth
+ abounded--boiling over with them, as one account describes it,
+ like water in a simmering cauldron. At the dreadful sight all
+ the enthusiasm of the previous night revived with double
+ ardour. They looked at one another in silent wonder, then
+ exclaimed, "See, see what a true monk he was, and we knew it
+ not!" and burst into alternate fits of weeping and laughter,
+ between the sorrow at having lost such a head and the joy of
+ having found such a saint.
+
+[Illustration; THE CHAPEL OF ST. MICHAEL OR THE WARRIORS' CHAPEL.
+It is one of the most interesting Chapels in the Cathedral, containing
+the tomb of Stephen Langton and in the centre of the drawing that of
+Lady Margaret Holland and her two husbands.]
+
+Almost immediately the superstitious belief in the efficacy of a
+martyr's blood made everyone who was permitted to approach Becket's
+body anxious to obtain a scrap of a blood-stained garment to soak in
+water with which to anoint the eyes! In a short time many parts of the
+clothes had been given away to the poor folk of Canterbury; but as
+soon as the miracle-working properties came to be properly understood
+these precious shreds of the Archbishop's voluminous garments ran up
+in value until the possession of such a fragment meant wealth to the
+owner. Any relic of the body itself had still greater value, its
+efficacy in curing the multifarious ailments of the pilgrims who began
+to flock to Canterbury being immeasurable. And when the neighbouring
+monastery of St. Augustine burned with desire to possess a relic of
+St. Thomas they offered Roger, the keeper of the "Altars of the
+Martyrdom," the position of Abbot of their own abbey if he would
+contrive to bring with him a portion of Becket's skull. Roger had been
+specially chosen to guard this relic, but he succumbed to the
+temptation offered by the rival establishment outside the city walls,
+and having purloined the coveted fragment of the martyr, was duly
+installed in the highest office of St. Augustine's. Whether the whole
+affair was public property at the time does not fully appear, but
+those who recorded events at St. Augustine's did not hesitate to
+glory in the success of their scheme!
+
+So great was the popular execration of the murder that the autocratic
+Archbishop who had not inspired universal admiration in his lifetime
+was soon to become the most frequently invoked of all the calendar of
+saints, and the King himself, finding that his submission to the Papal
+legate at Avranches, two years after the crime, was not sufficient to
+avert the wrath of Heaven, which seemed to be visiting him in the form
+of rebellions and disasters in every part of his dominions, came to
+Canterbury in 1174 and went through a penance of extreme severity.
+Landing at Southampton, he came by the Pilgrims' Way to Harbledown,
+and so entered the ancient city. At the church of St. Dunstan, outside
+the walls, he took off his ordinary dress and walked barefoot through
+the streets to the monastery of Christ Church. It was a wet day, but
+being in the month of July the wearing of a shirt only with a cloak to
+keep off the rain could not have been the cause of very great physical
+discomfort apart from the cutting of his feet by stones on the road.
+At the Cathedral they took Henry to the tomb of the man whose death he
+had caused, and there he knelt and shed bitter tears, groaning and
+lamenting. After again regretting his rash words in an address read by
+Gilbert Foliot, Bishop of London, and promising to restore the rights
+and property of the Church, the King, kneeling at the tomb, wearing a
+hair-shirt with a woollen one above it, placed his head and shoulders
+in one of the openings in the tomb and there received five strokes
+with a monastic rod from each of the bishops and abbots present, and
+afterwards the eighty monks each administered three strokes. Henry was
+now quite absolved, but he remained for the whole night with his bare
+feet still muddy and in the same penitential garb.
+
+[Illustration: THE SCENE OF THE MARTYRDOM IN THE NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT
+ OF THE CATHEDRAL.
+Since the tragic death of Becket in 1170 practically everything in this
+portion of the Cathedral has been re-constructed.]
+
+Arriving in London, the King took to his bed, suffering from a
+dangerous fever, but a few days later, hearing from Richmond in
+Yorkshire that the Scots had been defeated and driven north, he
+recovered rapidly, believing implicitly, after the manner of his age,
+that this success was attributable to the penance he had undergone on
+the day before the battle.
+
+And so, through the savage murder of an archbishop and the severe
+penance of a king the archiepiscopal capital of England began to
+resound all over Europe, and the annual procession of pilgrims
+commenced to traverse the hills along the old road from Winchester to
+the little Norman city. Not by that way only did the vast crowds reach
+Canterbury, for there was scarcely a road that at some period of the
+year did not send its contribution to the throng which jostled through
+the gates into the narrow streets leading to the monastery gateway.
+Year after year wealth poured into the Cathedral coffers, and pilgrims
+went away lighter in spirits and in purse, but each carrying with them
+the little leaden bottle in which the infinitely diluted blood of the
+martyr mixed with water was distributed.
+
+Scarcely two months after Henry's penance the splendid choir of the
+Cathedral caught fire, and the townsfolk, in a state between grief and
+rage, found themselves unable to stay the progress of the flames until
+nearly everything that could burn had vanished. The nave suffered less
+than Conrad's splendid choir, and in that less ruined portion of the
+building a temporary altar was erected. But for this fire it might
+have been possible for the modern pilgrim to see the building as it
+appeared during the stirring events just recounted; for,
+notwithstanding the wealth of the monastery of Christ Church, it would
+have probably been thought desirable to retain the fabric as much as
+possible as it appeared in Becket's time. The fire came, however, and
+the choir was to a great extent rebuilt, but fortunately the chapels
+were only slightly affected.
+
+After careful inquiry the monastery decided to employ William of Sens
+as architect for the reconstruction, and the excellent work of this
+clever Norman craftsman lives to-day in the eastern portion of the
+cathedral church. He set to work soon after the fire; but, after four
+years of labour, was so much injured by a fall from the scaffolding
+that he was obliged to abandon his unfinished work and return to his
+native Normandy. Upon an Englishman named William devolved the task of
+completing the work.
+
+Either following the Frenchman's plans or adapting them to his own
+ideas, he finished the eastern parts of the church as they stand
+to-day in the year 1184. To one or both of these architects is due the
+unusual device of narrowing the choir to avoid altering the site of
+the Trinity Chapel of Becket's time. When the reconstruction of
+Conrad's Norman choir began, the Gothic style was just beginning to
+appear--an incipient tendency towards a pointed arch here and there
+which grew into what is called the Transitional Period; and to this
+style--in between the Romanesque semicircular arch, with its
+accompanying massiveness, and the first style of Gothic known as Early
+English, distinguished by the pointed arch, detached pillars
+decorating the triforium and clerestory, and elaborate mouldings and
+capitals--the choir belongs.
+
+When the whole of the east end of the cathedral was finished, nearly
+two centuries elapsed before any further change took place beyond the
+beginning of the chapter-house. At the commencement of that period,
+however, one of Canterbury's most magnificent scenes of ecclesiastical
+pomp occurred in connection with the remains of Becket. The summer of
+1220 saw the completion of the new shrine, and on July 7, the
+translation of the saint's remains was accomplished amid scenes of the
+most astonishing splendour, described by those who were present as
+being without a parallel in the history of England, the crowds
+including people from many foreign countries. Money was spent so
+lavishly on the entertainment of the innumerable persons of
+distinction who were present or took part in the great ceremony that
+for several years the finances of the see were unpleasantly
+reminiscent of the vast expenditure. Henry III. was present, but he
+was not old enough to be a bearer of the great iron-bound chest
+containing the poor remnants of Becket's human guise. In the presence
+of nearly every ecclesiastical dignitary in the land the remains were
+placed in the newly finished shrine all aglow with jewels set in gold
+and silver.
+
+Throughout the centuries succeeding this crowning glory of Canterbury,
+the little walled city saw many great functions apart from the yearly
+stream of pilgrims of every grade of society, and the huge doles of
+food and drink given away by the two great monasteries and the lesser
+houses of the city must have brought together an unwholesome concourse
+of the needy.
+
+Every fifty years after the translation of Becket's remains to the
+great shrine there was a special festival on July 7, when the people
+of the archiepiscopal city would find their resources strained to the
+very uttermost in feeding and housing the great assemblage. The
+martyrdom took place on December 29, but owing to the time of the
+year this festival did not draw so many as the summer one. All through
+the year the pilgrims came and went, and instead of falling off in
+numbers as the martyrdom receded, the popularity of the saint did not
+reach its zenith until the fifteenth century. Royal visits were of
+frequent occurrence, and of all the cities of England, after London,
+Canterbury would appear to have entertained more distinguished
+personages than any other.
+
+Between 1378 and 1411 Prior Chillenden pulled down Lanfranc's Norman
+nave and transept, which had survived the fire, and rebuilt them in
+the Perpendicular style, then prevailing. When this work was finished
+and the south-western tower had been completed, in 1481, there was not
+much left of the Norman priory church built by Lanfranc. The
+north-western or Arundel Tower, the last survival of Lanfranc's
+church, was rebuilt in 1840 and made to match its Perpendicular
+neighbour and the central tower--the external masterpiece of the
+cathedral--commenced by Prior Molashe in 1433, and completed by Prior
+Selling in the closing years of the century. The piers supporting this
+tower are Norman with a later casing, and the foundations of the nave
+walls belong to the same period.
+
+Having reached its greatest glories, Canterbury began to decline, and
+the dissolution of the two great monasteries and the demolishing of
+Becket's shrine must have been to the city, on a much larger scale,
+what the sweeping away of all the Shakespearean landmarks and relics
+from Stratford-on-Avon of to-day would imply. Nevertheless the city
+could afford to present Queen Elizabeth with £30 in a scented purse
+when she came thither in 1564, and the fact that Canterbury remained
+the chief centre of the authority and state of the English Church
+prevented the city from decaying. And even if this dignity had not
+remained the position of the town in relation to the comings and
+goings between England and France would have saved it from any sudden
+fall from its opulence and greatness before the dissolution.
+
+To touch even lightly on the subsequent history of Canterbury is not
+possible here, but its remarkably interesting story has been woven
+into a connected narrative by Dr. Cox, whose admirable book should be
+procured by all who may, by reading this little sketch, feel some of
+the glamour which the old city has for the writer.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE CATHEDRAL
+
+
+From the swelling green hills that look over Canterbury the distant
+glimpses of the Cathedral towers gleaming in that opalescent light
+that is the joy of a summer's morning in Kent, are so hauntingly
+beautiful that it is hard to believe that no disillusionment need be
+anticipated when the ancient city is entered and the great church seen
+at close quarters in the midst of a little city whose busy streets are
+agog with twentieth-century interests; and yet apprehension is
+entirely needless. From St. Dunstan's Church, where Henry II. stripped
+himself to a shirt and cloak on entering as a penitent, the road is
+lined with houses whose quietly picturesque frontages improve as the
+city proper is neared, and at the end of a most pleasing perspective
+stands the West Gate, a great stone gateway with round towers. Passing
+through the archway, one is at once in the narrow, jostling
+familiarity of the medieval St. Peter's Street. This crosses one at
+the arms of the Stour, and continues as High Street, becoming
+increasingly rich in overhanging storeys and curious sixteenth and
+seventeenth century fronts. One's eye glances rapidly from side to
+side, until, on the left, an exceedingly narrow turning gives a
+peep--such a peep as no other city can give unless it be Rouen--of the
+Cathedral's western towers rising above a sumptuously enriched stone
+gateway framed by tall, timbered houses, which nod towards one another
+in the neighbourly fashion of old cronies. It might be that the modern
+pilgrim, whose course is thus arrested by the vision he sees in this
+cleft called Mercery Lane, might have had some intention of going
+straight through the city to St. Martin's Church outside the walls to
+the east; but, if so, he is a strong man who resists the appeal of
+that narrow way belonging altogether to the world of romance. He
+stands for a moment transfixed, and then plunges into the opening,
+forgetful of his original purpose in the vivid reality before him. He
+walks down the lane trodden century after century by countless
+pilgrims and enters the Cathedral precincts through the weather-worn
+gateway, Prior Goldstone II. built between 1507 and 1517.
+
+From the archway the first near vision of the vast pile is unfolded,
+nearly the whole of the south side being visible. Immediately opposite
+are the two western towers, the nearer one finished in 1451 and the
+further rebuilt seventy years ago. The heavily buttressed nave, in the
+same Perpendicular style, stretches away to the transept, where the
+eye mounts up higher and higher until it rests on the clustered
+pinnacles of the _campanilis Angeli_--the Angel Tower, as Prior
+Molashe by some happy inspiration chose to call the imposing feature
+he added to his priory church. Beyond the south-west transept appears
+the plain Norman work of the larger and more massive transept to the
+east, with its beautiful staircase tower built into the inner angle, a
+part of Conrad's "glorious" choir. The remaining eastern parts of the
+Cathedral are not visible from this point, but as one walks
+eastwards--the other way is closed by the Archbishop's Palace--St.
+Anselm's Tower and Trinity Chapel with its corona, or semicircular
+extension, successively appear. Armed even with such brief information
+as that given in the preceding chapter, one gazes on these weathered
+cliffs of wrought stone with quickened breath, reading into the
+Transitional Norman work the strange story of the historic murder
+which brought so much wealth to this spot that the Cathedral in its
+present form is due to little else. To wipe out Becket's name
+completely Henry VIII. would have needed to demolish the whole church.
+
+[Illustration: THE DOORWAY INTO THE TRANSEPT OF MARTYRDOM FROM THE
+ CLOISTERS.
+It was through this doorway that Becket was followed by his murderers
+on that fatal afternoon in 1170 when the winter twilight was
+deepening.]
+
+The smooth turf along the south side of the Cathedral was used by the
+monks as a lay cemetery, and the fairly extensive space to the
+south-east shaded by old elms was their own burial-ground. All the
+monastic buildings were, contrary to the usual custom, on the north,
+for having only a narrow space between the south side of their church
+and the wall which Lanfranc built to secure the whole monastery, they
+naturally built on their extensive piece of ground running right up to
+the city wall to the north. Rounding the east end of the Cathedral,
+therefore, one finds under its ample shadow the remains of many of the
+domestic offices of the great priory. The great hall, with its kitchen
+and offices, is now part of the house of one of the prebendaries, and
+is not accessible to the public, but to the west are the interesting
+ruins of the infirmary. This was a long building with aisles, having
+a chapel opening out of it to the east, so that the sick brethren
+while lying in their beds could listen to the services. The south
+arcade of this chapel, consisting of four Norman arches with an
+ivy-grown clerestory, is still standing, and there are also some
+arches of the south side of the hall still showing the orange-pink
+colour produced on the stone by the disastrous fire in 1174, when
+Conrad's choir was reduced to a ruin. Adjoining the western end of the
+infirmary hall, and now a part of the Cathedral, is the beautiful
+Transitional-Norman treasury built on to St. Andrew's Chapel. Going to
+the right through a passage called the Dark Entry, one has the site of
+the prior's lodging on the right and on the left the infirmary
+cloister, and north of it the smaller dormitories of the monks. This
+passage-way leads through the vaulted Prior's Gate to the Green Court,
+a wide grassy space shaded by great limes and other trees. Framed
+between the spreading branches appears one of the most perfect
+groupings of the Angel Steeple with the piled-up roofs of the library,
+chapter house, and north-west transept as steps leading up to the vast
+tower, whose presence has an uplifting effect on the mind, scarcely
+equalled by the solemn immensity of the nave when one first
+enters--but the interior must wait for a little, while the remaining
+portions of the precincts are seen.
+
+Adjoining the Prior's Gate to the east is the building now used as the
+Deanery. It was built by Prior Goldstone in late Perpendicular times
+as a guest-house for the reception of strangers, but has been much
+altered since that time. At the north-west corner of the court is a
+very fine Norman gateway, now surrounded by the modern buildings of
+the King's School, and a little to the right is a Norman staircase,
+which by the goodness of Providence was allowed to remain when other
+destruction was in progress. This beautiful and unique example of a
+staircase of this early period is the most remarkable feature of the
+monastic remains. Beyond the Green Court Gate stood the almonry and a
+granary, and south of these buildings was the Archbishop's Palace, so
+ruined in Puritan times that the remains of a gateway in Palace Street
+is practically all that can now be seen. The present palace is quite
+modern. Coming back to the Cathedral, the remarkably picturesque
+little circular Lavatory Tower standing on late Norman open arches is
+noticeable in its shadowy seclusion among the lofty walls of the choir
+chapels. This is generally known as the Baptistery, but the name only
+began to be used when the font Bishop Warner presented to the
+Cathedral was placed there. In the little garden in front of the
+Lavatory Tower are two Roman columns brought from Reculver more than a
+century ago when the church there became a ruin. West of this tower is
+the library, standing on part of the site of the great dormitory, and
+opening on to the cloisters is the chapter house, commenced in 1304 by
+Prior Estria and finished in 1378 by Prior Chillenden. The windows at
+the east and west ends are the largest in the Cathedral.
+
+The great cloister, like the chapter house, largely owes its present
+appearance to Prior Chillenden, and is of exceedingly beautiful
+Perpendicular work with a splendid roof of lierne vaulting. Part of
+the south walk, with the doorway into the north transept--the
+successor to the Norman one through which Becket passed to his
+death--is shown in Mr. Biscombe Gardner's drawing facing page 43. If
+one enters the Cathedral from this point, especially if it should be
+in the twilight of a gloomy day, the atmosphere of the murder seems to
+be all about one, notwithstanding the rebuilding at a later period of
+the actual scene, but the historic entrance is by the south porch
+facing the great gate of the priory, and as it is still the usual
+place of entry this short account of the interior will begin at that
+point.
+
+[Illustration: THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE IN CANTERBURY.
+This picturesque house of the Franciscans, who came to the town in
+1220, stands on a branch of the Stour near Stour Street.]
+
+The porch belongs to the great period of rebuilding under Prior
+Chillenden, and, with its double row of canopied niches containing
+statues, is a beautiful feature, even with the central space which
+contained a representation of the martyrdom of Becket still vacant
+since the days of Henry VIII. There is in the first view of a vast
+Cathedral nave something almost overpowering in its sense of ordered
+beauty. It may be that average lives are so planless, so haphazard and
+without order that an achievement of such magnitude representing years
+of labour and concentrated thought in steadily following out a
+preconceived plan cannot fail to be a tremendous contrast to the
+smallness and pettiness of the majority--a contrast so great that it
+is mentally and spiritually a glimpse of the world of new
+possibilities attainable when once the feverish clinging to the ideals
+of the totem post is abandoned. This vast nave, reminiscent in many
+ways of Winchester, but far more satisfying, is generally bathed in a
+cool, greenish light, and is, in reality, a magnificent vestibule to
+the crowded interest beyond the transept. The effect of emptiness
+existing to-day is vastly different to what the pilgrims used to gaze
+upon while waiting their turn to be sprinkled with holy water, for
+before the Reformation and the complete sweeping away of the
+enrichments of Roman Catholic times the roof and walls were brilliant
+with paintings, the windows glowed with the warm colour of medieval
+glass, sumptuous hangings were suspended in many places and the altars
+twinkling with lighted candles added much gilding and colour to the
+aisles. All this barbarous crowding of colour and ornament, all this
+splendour of a ritual that appealed to an age capable of stilling the
+voice of conscience with an absolution obtainable for a few pence has
+passed away, but the vast building remains to tell of the reality of
+endeavour of one side of monastic life.
+
+[Illustration: THE PICTURESQUE GABLED HOUSES OF THE CANTERBURY
+ WEAVERS.
+The houses are reflected in the Stour just by King's Bridge, which
+joins the High Street to St. Peter's Street.]
+
+Across the great arch opening into the base of the tower is the
+supporting arch inserted by Prior Goldstone II., who, as already
+stated, built the Angel Steeple above the roof-line where it had been
+left by Chillenden. The arch has been called a disfigurement, and as
+it was not originally intended such an opinion may be justifiable, and
+yet the beauty of the reticulated stonework and the consummate skill
+which conceived the bold simplicity of design is so satisfying that it
+is scarcely possible to wish that it were absent. Beneath this flying
+arch appears the splendid western screen, approached by the flight of
+steps necessitated by the crypt or undercroft, for, being on perfectly
+level ground, there would have been no need for this unique feature.
+Among the monuments in the nave aisles those on the south include the
+memorial to Dean Farrar, who is buried in the great cloister, and
+William Broughton, Bishop of Sydney and Adelaide, who was a scholar at
+the King's School. In the north aisle the Tudor monument to Sir T.
+Hales showing his burial at sea is curious and picturesque, and other
+memorials are to Charles I.'s organist, Orlando Gibbons, and to the
+Archbishops Boyes and Sumner.
+
+The north-west transept, on the left as the steps to the choir are
+ascended, is the scene of Becket's martyrdom, and the vergers show the
+traditional spot where he fell. From the opposite transept, steps lead
+down to the undercroft, and also up to the south choir aisle--the way
+the pilgrims approached the shrine of St. Thomas. Also opening from
+the south-west transept is St. Michael's or the Warrior's Chapel, as
+it is now popularly called. In the illustration facing p. 30, the tomb
+of Lady Margaret Holland and her two husbands, John Beaufort, Earl of
+Somerset, and Thomas, Duke of Clarence, is shown occupying the centre
+of the chapel, but it just misses a more interesting, if much less
+beautiful, tomb, that of Stephen Langton, the courageous Archbishop
+who took such a leading part in forcing John to sign Magna Charta. The
+plain sarcophagus is partly within and partly outside the chapel, for
+when it was rebuilt in the fourteenth century it was extended so much
+to the east that it became necessary either to move Langton's tomb or
+else to make an arch in the wall, and the latter course was taken,
+with the curious result still to be seen. An astonishing contrast to
+the clear-sighted action of this Norman Archbishop was the attitude of
+Archbishop Howley (1828-1848) whose bitter hostility to the Reform
+Bill in 1831 so raised the anger of the people of Canterbury that they
+greeted his next arrival in the city with showers of stones and rotten
+eggs. In the midst of a howling mob the archiepiscopal carriage
+slowly struggled to the Deanery, bearing in it the amiable Churchman
+who was convinced that the Reform Bill was "mischievous in its
+tendency, and extremely dangerous to the fabric of the constitution."
+Such words are deeply interesting at the present day, when many people
+think they see, in progress on the same lines, dangers of an equally
+unfounded order.
+
+Passing along the south aisle of the choir, one gradually sees the
+whole of the elaborately devised eastern parts of the Cathedral as
+they were reconstructed by William of Sens and his English successor.
+The arcades of alternately circular and octagonal pillars have richly
+carved foliated capitals, and there is a lightness in form and a
+profusion of carving that tells of the coming of the Gothic
+style--indeed, so far in advance of the plain Norman work of Conrad is
+the present choir that the change to pure Early English is slight in
+comparison. In its great length this choir is unique, and in the
+lowness of its vaulted roof is also unusual, but this is accounted for
+by the undercroft beneath. From the centre of the choir the remarkable
+inward bend of the walls, necessitated through the determination not
+to alter the plan of the Trinity Chapel so hallowed by the memory of
+the Blessed St. Thomas, is very noticeable: to some extent it helps to
+give one an impression of the great length of the whole choir, with
+the chapel beyond. The eastern transepts and chapels still have their
+apsidal chapels almost as they were built by Conrad.
+
+Ascending some more steps, the modern pilgrim reaches Trinity Chapel,
+where his eyes, instead of falling upon a shrine encrusted with jewels
+and precious metals, merely look between the pillars upon an empty
+space. A vacant spot, however, can be eloquent enough, and to those
+who have read Chaucer's "Canterbury Tales" or the late Mr. Snowden
+Ward's "Canterbury Pilgrimages," if they have gone no farther in the
+study of this fascinating cult, the site of the shrine whose fame was
+European is able to give almost as deep a thrill as any experienced by
+the wayworn folk of the Middle Ages.
+
+By going closer and examining the pavement, a shallow groove appears
+marking the exact position of the base of the shrine. This was worn by
+the endless stream of pilgrims as they knelt in ecstasy before the
+object their eyes had longed to feast upon. To the west is a fine
+thirteenth-century mosaic pavement similar to that in the Confessor's
+Chapel at Westminster Abbey, to which it is very fitting to compare
+this chapel, for if it is not quite a "Chapel of the Kings" it has a
+King--Henry IV.--and a king's eldest son--the Black Prince--on either
+side, and after Westminster Abbey there was scarcely a more sacred
+spot in the kingdom than this.
+
+It was fitting that Henry IV. should be buried here, for he had taken
+a considerable amount of interest in the rebuilding of the nave, and
+had been liberal in his financial aid. The effigies of Henry and his
+second wife, Joan of Navarre, are believed to be faithful
+representations. Of the tomb of Edward the Black Prince, if space
+permitted, much could be said, for it is a magnificent piece of work
+apart from the historical interest that attaches to the soldier
+Prince, whose two great victories at Crécy and Poitiers have thrilled
+every English schoolboy during all the subsequent centuries. The
+strong iron railing has prevented any damage to the bronze or latten
+effigy, and except for the tarnishing and general deterioration of
+gilding and paint, one looks on the monument as it was erected in the
+days of chivalry. All the details of this tomb had been arranged by
+the Black Prince himself, and it was he who chose the Norman-French
+inscription all can plainly read to-day. Above the tomb is suspended a
+flat canopy of wood with an embattled moulding, and on the underside a
+much decayed painting of the Trinity, if one may call it such when the
+Dove is not represented. On the beam from which the canopy is
+suspended are hung the shield, helmet, velvet coat, brass gauntlets,
+and empty sword sheath which are the survivals of two complete suits,
+one for peace, and one for war, which were carried at the funeral as
+the Prince had ordered in his will.
+
+The eastern extension of the chapel is called Becket's Crown, a name
+tradition associates with the preservation in this chapel of a portion
+of St. Thomas's skull. One window contains old glass, and in the
+centre of the floor is placed the chair of Purbeck marble in which the
+Archbishops are enthroned. As it is no longer considered as old as the
+days of Augustine the title St. Augustine's Chair must be regarded as
+a figure of speech.
+
+By the most marvellous good fortune the wonderful series of windows in
+Trinity Chapel, illustrating the many cures wrought at the Shrine of
+St. Thomas, have come down to the present time almost unharmed, and
+this magnificent range of thirteenth-century glass is finer than
+anything else of its period in England. This glass is all prior to
+1220, and without it there would have been no representation of the
+first shrine at all. The colour in these windows is all subservient to
+the careful drawing of the pictures in the medallions, but in the
+north choir aisle there are some windows almost of the same period
+where the colour is as splendid as in any of the early windows at
+Chartres. For any description of the tombs of the archbishops there
+is, unfortunately, no space here. In the splendid crypt, besides the
+interest of the various periods of Norman and Transitional work, there
+is the rich Perpendicular screenwork of the Chapel of Our Lady of the
+Undercroft, and the Huguenot Chapel in what was the Black Prince's
+Chantry. In Tudor times the whole of the undercroft was given up to
+the French Protestant refugees, who, besides worshipping there, set up
+their looms in this hallowed portion of the Cathedral where the martyr
+was laid until his translation in 1220 and where Henry II. had passed
+the night after his severe penance. This very short description of
+such a building must be regarded as a mere introduction to the study
+of a vast subject, for in the space available nothing more is remotely
+possible.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE CITY
+
+
+A walled city generally holds more easily that elusive quality of
+romance for which the intelligent mind so often hungers than a town
+that has long ago discarded its old tower-studded girdle. And among
+the half-dozen or more English towns still possessed of their old
+mural defences Canterbury holds a high place, because within its walls
+there are still, in spite of railways and motors and the horrors of
+twentieth-century advertising, a hundred byways and nooks where the
+atmosphere of Elizabethan and pre-Reformation England still lurks. The
+wall itself does not stand out with the splendid completeness of York
+or Conway, and on the western side it has vanished altogether, while
+of the seven or eight gates, one only--the West Gate--has been saved;
+yet, while walking in the narrow, picturesque streets, it is difficult
+to forget that Canterbury is a walled city. Until well into last
+century all the gates were standing; but one by one these ornaments
+were destroyed by the city until one only was left, and even that
+would have been wantonly sacrificed to facilitate the entry of some
+circus caravans when, in 1850, Wombwell's menagerie visited the city!
+This vandal showman actually dared to request the Corporation to
+demolish the gate on account of the difficulty of getting his
+procession through the low arch. This is hard to believe, but it is
+infinitely more difficult to understand the aboriginal minds of some
+of the members of the Corporation when the records unblushingly reveal
+that the showman's preposterous request not only found both a proposer
+and a seconder, but that the votes were equally divided on the matter,
+and it was only the Mayor's casting vote which has preserved for the
+city its noble entry. Such a searchlight as this, throwing into
+dazzling clearness the almost entire lack of appreciation for its
+historic buildings possessed by the controllers of the city must make
+one grateful for the happy chances which have permitted so much that
+is old and picturesque to survive.
+
+[Illustration: WESTGATE, CANTERBURY, FROM WITHIN.
+This is the only survivor of the gates which studded the mediæval
+walls of the city.]
+
+From the East Station there extends as far as the site of the old
+Riding Gate a well-preserved length of the wall with semicircular
+towers at intervals, and from opposite Lady Wootton's Green to St.
+Mary's Church, standing close to the site of North Gate, lengths of
+the wall, with a tower at intervals, form thrillingly medieval
+foregrounds for the Cathedral towers. In Pound Lane the wall continues
+in a furtive and rather desultory fashion until it ends at the West
+Gate. Opposite Lady Wootton's Green there still remain indications of
+a narrow postern, which is generally accepted as that through which
+Queen Bertha was wont to pass on her way to her devotions at St.
+Martin's Church. This, however, presupposes that the portion of the
+wall immediately surrounding this particular point is Roman or very
+Early Saxon, and also that the walls of the city occupied the same
+position, at least as far as this point, as those built at the end of
+the twelfth century.
+
+Mr. T. Godfrey Faussett's plan of Roman Canterbury appears to carry
+the wall just as far as this point, and then turns at an acute angle
+towards the south side of the Cathedral. Following the direction Queen
+Bertha would have taken brings one to the great gateway of St.
+Augustine's Abbey, the Benedictine monastery founded by Augustine on
+the land given for that purpose by Ethelbert. It was at first
+dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, and the original buildings were
+finished in 613. Having become the place of burial for the Kings of
+Kent and the Archbishops, the Abbey quite overshadowed the Priory of
+Christ Church, until in 758 Archbishop Cuthbert was secretly buried
+within the claustral confines of his own priory. At the Dissolution
+Henry converted the stately buildings into a palace, so that the royal
+visits, which had been of no infrequent occurrence in the days of
+monastic hospitality, continued; and while the lordly pile passed
+through the hands of various owners, Elizabeth, Charles I., and
+Charles II. paid visits on various occasions.
+
+A century ago, when appreciation of the architecture of the dead
+centuries when Englishmen built with superlative skill had ebbed to
+its lowest, the Abbey had sunk to inconceivably debased uses. The
+monastic kitchen had been converted into a public-house, and the great
+gateway--the finest structural relic of the Abbey--had become the
+entrance to a brewery, while cock-fighting took place in the state
+bedroom above. The pilgrims' guest hall, now the college dining-hall,
+had become a dancing-hall, and the ground, unoccupied by buildings,
+soil hallowed by the memories of so many saintly lives and associated
+with the momentous days when England was being released from the toils
+of pagan ignorance became known as "the Old Palace Tea-gardens." The
+popular mind had seemingly forgotten the original uses of the place
+they were desecrating with fireworks and variety shows.
+
+At last, in 1844, Mr. Beresford Hope rescued the half-destroyed
+remnants of the abbey-palace, and through his generosity the present
+missionary college was founded, and the buildings restored or
+reconstructed. A more happy idea could scarcely have been suggested
+than that of associating the abbey founded by the first missionary of
+Christianity to England with modern efforts to carry the light into
+the dark places of the earth. The much-restored gateway, built by
+Abbot Fyndon at the beginning of the fourteenth century, the
+guest-hall, and part of the memorial chapel, are the chief portions of
+the old structures incorporated into the buildings that surround three
+sides of the college quadrangle. Standing apart to the south is one of
+the huge walls of the nave of the abbey church, and to the east are
+the extensive excavations of the east end of the crypt and other
+fascinatingly early remains of the historic churches mentioned in an
+earlier chapter (p. 17).
+
+Leaving the Abbey grounds, and continuing to the east, one reaches in
+a few minutes the little church of St. Martin set on the knoll to
+which Queen Bertha directed her steps. It is, however, a
+disappointingly familiar type of Early English village church to the
+casual glance, and until the fabric and the remarkable font have been
+examined and discussed in the light of modern scientific archæology it
+is difficult to appreciate the hoary antiquity of at least parts of
+the structure. To understand the indications of the Saxon, or possibly
+Roman, work in the fabric, and to know the reasons for considering the
+font a relic of Saxon times, it is scarcely possible to find a better
+instructor than Canon Routledge, whose little book is all one can
+desire.
+
+When the Cathedral, the Abbey, and St. Martin's Church have been
+visited, it is too often thought that Canterbury has yielded up all
+her treasures, but this is an amazingly mistaken idea. There still
+remain to be seen the Castle, the walls, the old inns, the many
+interesting examples of early domestic architecture, the remains of
+the lesser religious houses and hospitals, a wonderful array of
+interesting churches, and the excellent museum. Of the Castle the
+great Norman keep, completed about 1125, still stands, having been
+allowed to remain because the walls were found to be too hard to
+easily destroy; but up to the time of writing the Corporation has not
+purchased the immense shell, and it therefore remains a storage place
+for the coal of the adjoining gasworks. The remains of the buildings
+of the Black, or Preaching, Friars, and those of the Grey Friars, who
+belonged to the rule of St. Francis, are on islands formed by the
+Stour, and are marked in nearly every plan of the town. The hospitals
+include that of St. John the Baptist in North Gate Street, Eastbridge
+Hospital in St. Peter Street, and the Poor Priests' Hospital near
+Stour Street. Outside the city, at Harbledown, is the interesting old
+Hospital of St. Nicholas, a home for lepers, who were separately
+housed.
+
+Of the churches it would be easy to write a great deal, but there is
+merely space to point out that the only one lacking in interest is All
+Saints' in High Street. At St. Dunstan's the head of Sir Thomas More
+is preserved in a vault, but it is never possible to see it, and one
+must be content with the picturesque brick gateway of the Roper house
+in St. Dunstan's Street.
+
+[Illustration: PLAN OF CANTERBURY CASTLE.
+
+KEY TO NUMBERS.
+ 1. Door to Cloisters.
+ 2. Door In Cloisters.
+ 3. Dean's (or Lady) Chapel.
+ 4. St. Michael's Chapel.
+ 5. Baptistery.
+ 6. Library (Howleian).
+ 7. Treasury.
+ 8. Chapel of King Henry IV.
+ 9. Arundel Tower (N.W.).
+ 10. Dunstan Tower (S.W.).
+ 11. Entrance to French Church.
+ 12. Archbishop Benson.
+ 13. Bishop Parry.
+ 14. Archbishop Sumner.
+ 15. Sir T. Hales.
+ 16. Colonel Stuart.
+ 17. Dr. Beaney.
+ 18. Dean Fotherbye.
+ 19. Archbishop Chicheley.
+ 20. Archbishop Bourchier.
+ 21. Archbishop Kemp.
+ 22. Archbishop Sudbury.
+ 23. St. Dunstan (site).
+ 24. Archbishop Tait.
+ 25. King Henry IV.
+ 26. Edward, the Black Prince.
+ 27. Becket's Shrine (site).
+ 28. Cardinal Pole.
+ 29. Unknown.
+ 30. Archbishop Mepham.
+ 31. Archbishop Winchelsey.
+ 32. Henry de Estria.
+ 33. Stephen Langton.
+ 34. Archbishop's ancient Chair.
+ 35. Memorial to Dean Farrar.
+ 36. Wm. Broughton, Bishop of Sydney and Adelaide.
+ 37. Archbishop Boyes.
+ 38. Tomb of Dean Farrar.
+ 39. Tomb of Archbishop Temple.
+ 40. Two columns from Reculver.]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+Alphege, Archbishop, 19, 20
+Angel Steeple, 42, 44, 48
+Anglo-Saxon invasions, 12
+Archbishop's Palace, 42, 45
+Augustine, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 54, 59
+
+Becket, Thomas à, 5, 6, 23-28, 43, 47, 49, 52, 54
+Bertha (Ethelbert's Queen), 13, 14, 16, 58, 61
+Black Prince, 53, 54, 55
+Boyes, Archbishop, 49
+Bret, Richard le, 29
+Broughton, Bishop, 49
+
+Cæsar, Julius, 10
+Canute, 20
+Castle, the, 62
+Cathedral, the, 40-55
+Charles I., 59
+Charles II., 59
+Chartres, windows at, 55
+Chillenden, Prior, 38, 46, 47, 48
+Clarence, Thomas, Duke of, 50
+Conrad's choir, 34
+Conrad, Prior, 22, 51, 52
+Corbeuil, Archbishop de, 22
+Cuthbert, Archbishop, 59
+
+Dane John, the, 10
+Danes, the, 19, 20
+David I. of Scotland, 22
+Dover, 11
+
+Eadbald, 18
+Eadmer, 21
+Elizabeth, Queen, 39, 59
+Ernulph, Prior, 22
+Estria, Prior, 46
+Ethelbert, 13, 14, 17, 18, 59
+
+Farrar, Dean, 49
+Fitzurse, Reginald, 25, 26
+Foliot, Gilbert, 33
+Fyndon, Abbot, 60
+
+Gates of Canterbury, the, 56-58
+Gibbons, Orlando, 49
+Goldstone II., Prior, 48
+
+Hales, Sir T., tomb of, 49
+Harbledown, 8, 32, 62
+Hengist and Horsa, 13
+Henry I., 22
+Henry II., 23, 34, 40, 55
+Henry III., 37
+Henry IV., tomb of, 53
+Henry VIII., 5, 43, 47, 59
+Holland, Lady Margaret, 50
+Hospitals, medieval, 62
+Howley, Archbishop, 50
+Huguenot Chapel, 55
+
+Joan of Navarre, 53
+John, King, 50
+
+King's school, the, 45, 49
+
+Lady Wootton's Green, 58
+Lanfranc, Archbishop, 21, 22, 38, 43
+Langton, Stephen, 50
+Living, Archbishop, 20
+Luidhard, Bishop, 13
+Lymne, 11
+
+Magna Charta, 50
+Mercery Lane, 41
+Molashe, Prior, 38, 42
+More, Sir Thomas, 62
+Moreville, Hugh de, 27
+
+Norman staircase, 45
+
+Pilgrims' Way, the, 6, 32, 34
+Prior's Gate, 44, 45
+
+Reculver, 2, 46
+Reform Bill, the, 50, 51
+Religious houses, 62
+Richborough, 11
+Roman Canterbury, 10-12, 16, 58, 61
+
+St. Augustine's Abbey, 11, 14, 19, 31, 58-60
+St. Dunstan, Church of, 19, 32, 40, 62
+
+St. Martin, Church of, 14, 16, 17, 19, 41, 58
+St. Mildred, Church of, 19
+St. Pancras, Church of, 17, 19
+Salisbury, John of, 26
+Sandwich, 23
+Selling, Prior, 38
+Somerset, John Beaufort, Earl of, 50
+Stanley, Dean, 23, 24, 30
+Sumner, Archbishop, 49
+
+Thorn, William, 17
+Tracy, William de, 25
+
+Walls of the city, 56-59
+Warrior's Chapel, the, 50
+West gate, the, 56-57
+William of Sens, 35, 51
+William Rufus, 22
+William the Englishman, 35
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13890 ***
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+ .linenum {position: absolute; top: auto; left: 4%;} /* poetry number */
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+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13890 ***</div>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Beautiful Britain, by Gordon Home</h1>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <p>&nbsp;</p>
+ <h1>Beautiful Britain</h1>
+ <h2>Gordon Home</h2>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="COVER" id="COVER"></a> <img src="./images/cover.jpg"
+ alt="THE NORMAN STAIRCASE TO THE KING'S SCHOOL" /></p>
+ <h1>Canterbury</h1>
+ <hr />
+ <hr />
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_1" id="PLATE_1"></a> <img src="./images/plate-1.jpg"
+ alt="THE NAVE OF CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL" /> <a name="Page_1" id="Page_1"></a></p>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <p class="ctr"><img src="./images/title.png" alt="TITLE ILLUSTRATION" /></p>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <p class="poem"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a> "When that Aprill&eacute; with his
+ shower&eacute;s soote [= sweet]<br />
+ The drought of March hath pierc&eacute;d to the roote,<br />
+ </p>
+ <hr class="short" />
+ <p class="poem">Then longen folk to go on pilgrimages,<br />
+ And palmers for to seeken strang&eacute; strands,<br />
+ To ferme [=ancient] halwes [=shrines] knowthe [= known] in sundry lands<br />
+ And specially from every shir&eacute;s end<br />
+ Of Eng&eacute;land, to Canterbury they wend,<br />
+ The holy, blissful martyr for to seek<br />
+ That them hath holpen when that they were sick."</p>
+ <p class="signature">CHAUCER: <i>Canterbury Tales</i>.</p>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <h2><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+ <div class="ctr">
+ <table summary="toc" border="0" cellpadding="5">
+ <colgroup>
+ <col span="2" align="left" />
+ <col align="right" />
+ </colgroup>
+ <tr>
+ <th colspan="2">CHAPTER</th>
+ <th>PAGE</th>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>I.</td>
+ <td>THE PILGRIM'S APPROACH TO THE CITY</td>
+ <td><a href='#CHAPTER_I'>5</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>II.</td>
+ <td>THE STORY OF CANTERBURY</td>
+ <td><a href='#CHAPTER_II'>9</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>III.</td>
+ <td>THE CATHEDRAL</td>
+ <td><a href='#CHAPTER_III'>40</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>IV.</td>
+ <td>THE CITY</td>
+ <td><a href='#CHAPTER_IV'>56</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>&nbsp;</td>
+ <td>INDEX</td>
+ <td><a href='#INDEX'></a></td>
+ </tr>
+ </table>
+ </div>
+ <h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+ <table summary="toc" border="0" cellpadding="2">
+ <colgroup>
+ <col span="2" align="left" />
+ <col align="right" />
+ </colgroup>
+ <tr>
+ <th colspan="2">PLATE</th>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>1.</td>
+ <td>THE NAVE OF CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_1"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>&nbsp;</td>
+ <th colspan="2" align="right">FACING PAGE</th>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>2.</td>
+ <td>CHRIST CHURCH GATE</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_2">9</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>3.</td>
+ <td>THE CATHEDRAL FROM NORTH-WEST</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_3">16</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>4.</td>
+ <td>THE "ANGEL" OR "BELL HARRY" TOWER AND THE LAVATORY TOWER OF THE
+ CATHEDRAL</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_4">25</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>5.</td>
+ <td>THE CHAPEL OF "OUR LADY" IN THE UNDERCROFT OF THE CATHEDRAL</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_5">27</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>6.</td>
+ <td>THE WARRIOR'S CHAPEL</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_6">30</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>7.</td>
+ <td>THE MARTYRDOM IN THE NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_7">32</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>8.</td>
+ <td>THE DOORWAY FROM THE CLOISTERS TO THE MARTYRDOM</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_8">43</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>9.</td>
+ <td>THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE IN CANTERBURY</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_9">46</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>10.</td>
+ <td>THE HOUSE OF THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_10">49</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>11.</td>
+ <td>WESTGATE CANTERBURY FROM WITHIN</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_11">56</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>12.</td>
+ <td>THE NORMAN STAIRCASE TO THE KING'S SCHOOL</td>
+ <td><a href="#COVER"><i>On the cover</i></a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>13.</td>
+ <td>PLAN OF CANTERBURY.</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLAN_1">5</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>14.</td>
+ <td>PLAN OF CANTERBURY CASTLE.</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLAN_2">63</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ </table>
+ <hr />
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a><a name="PLAN_1" id="PLAN_1"></a> <a
+ href="./images/plan-1.png"><img src="./images/plan-1_th.jpg" width="640" height="447"
+ alt="PLAN OF CANTERBURY" /></a><br />
+ PLAN OF CANTERBURY, SHOWING THE CHIEF STREETS AND THE MOST INTERESTING BUILDINGS</p>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <h1><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a>CANTERBURY</h1>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I</h2>
+ <h3>THE PILGRIM'S APPROACH TO THE CITY</h3>
+ <p>It was on April 24, 1538, that a writ of summons was sent forth in the name of
+ Henry VIII., "To thee, Thomas Becket, some time Archbishop of Canterbury"-&mdash;who
+ had then been dead for 368 years&mdash;-to appear within thirty days to answer to a
+ charge of treason, contumacy, and rebellion against his sovereign lord, King Henry
+ II. But the days passed, and no spirit having stirred the venerated bones of the
+ wonder-working saint, on June 10 judgment was given in favour of Henry, and it was
+ decreed that the Archbishop's bones were to be burnt, and his world-famous shrine
+ overlaid with gold and sparkling with jewels was to be forfeited to the Crown.
+ Further than this went the sentence, for Thomas of Canterbury was to be a saint no <a
+ name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a>longer, and his name and memory were to be wiped out.
+ The remains were not burned, but throughout the land every statue, wall-painting, and
+ window to the said Thomas Becket was rigorously searched out and destroyed, and from
+ every record his name was carefully erased. And so it came about that the year 1538
+ saw the last pilgrimage to the shrine of St. Thomas the Martyr.</p>
+ <p>A growing incredulity had prepared the way for this wave of iconoclasm, and the
+ shrine once destroyed ended for ever this first phase of the Canterbury pilgrimages.
+ It might have been truly thought, if anyone ever gave a moment to such speculations a
+ century ago, when Englishmen cared little for the landmarks of their island story,
+ that the last pilgrim who would ever wend his way along the old road to Canterbury
+ had died in the sixteenth century, and yet how profoundly untrue would that
+ impression have been in the light of the new enthusiasm for the site of the shrine! A
+ considerable literature on the Pilgrims' Way from Winchester has already sprung up,
+ and this little book is itself a souvenir for the pilgrim to carry away as evidence
+ of the journey he has made, provided <a name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a>he cares to
+ write inside the cover his name, the date of his visit, and the two words "at
+ Canterbury."</p>
+ <p>Now, I do not disguise the fact that many of the twentieth-century pilgrims are
+ not possessed of the true spirit of the devotee, and instead of approaching the
+ object of their journey by the old-time way, along the beautiful hills of Surrey and
+ Kent, they use the iron road which rushes them all unprepared into the city of the
+ saint-martyr. But who will maintain that all those who formed the motley throng of
+ the medieval pilgrimages came with their minds properly attuned, and who is prepared
+ to say that because the majority of modern pilgrims consummate their aim by using the
+ convenience of the railway they are less devout than Chaucer's merchant,
+ serjeant-at-law, doctor of physic, and the rest who rode on horseback&mdash;the most
+ convenient, rapid, and comfortable method of travel then available?</p>
+ <p>There is, however, a material disadvantage suffered by those who use the railway,
+ in that they miss the first view of the Cathedral city set in the midst of
+ soft-swelling eocene hills, which comes as the first stage of the gradual unfolding
+ <a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a>of the tragic story. The lukewarm pilgrim should
+ therefore remember that he will add vastly to the richness of his impressions if he
+ deserts his train at Selling or Chartham and walks the rest of the way over
+ Harbledown, where he will see the little city of the Middle Ages encircled with its
+ ancient wall and crowned by the towers of its cathedral very much as did the
+ cosmopolitan groups of travel-soiled men and women who for century after century
+ feasted their eyes from the selfsame spot.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_2" id="PLATE_2"></a><img src="./images/plate-2.jpg"
+ alt="CHRIST CHURCH GATEWAY" /><br />
+ CHRIST CHURCH GATEWAY, CANTERBURY.<br />
+ This beautiful entrance to the Cathedral precincts was built between 1507 and 1517.
+ The richly sculptured stone has weathered exceedingly. <a name="Page_9"
+ id="Page_9"></a></p>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2>
+ <h3>THE STORY OF CANTERBURY</h3>
+ <p>It would be a mistake to imagine that it solely was due to that bloody deed
+ perpetrated on a certain December afternoon back in Norman times that Canterbury
+ occupies a place of such pre-eminence in English history, for the city was ancient
+ before the days of Thomas of Canterbury; and in this short chapter it is the writer's
+ endeavour to indicate the position of that tragic occurrence in the chronology of the
+ former Kentish capital.</p>
+ <p>The earliest people who have left evidence of their existence near Canterbury
+ belong to the Pal&aelig;olithic Age; but as it is not known whether this remote
+ prehistoric population occupied the actual site, or even whether the valley may not
+ have then been a salt-water creek, it is wiser in this brief sketch to pass over
+ these primitive people and the lake-dwellers who, after a considerable interval, were
+ possibly their successors, <a name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></a>and come to the surer
+ ground of history. This brings us to the early Roman invasions of Britain and Julius
+ C&aelig;sar's description of the people of Kent, whose civilization he found on a
+ higher level than in the other parts he penetrated. He described them as being little
+ different in their manner of living from the Gauls, whose houses were built of planks
+ and willow-branches, roofed with thatch, and were large and circular in form, but he
+ adds:</p>
+ <div class='blkquot'>
+ <p>All the Britons dye themselves with woad, which gives them a bluish colour, and
+ so makes them very dreadful in battle. They have long hair, and shave all the body
+ except the head and upper lip.</p>
+ </div>
+ <p>These people, owning allegiance to various chiefs and living in camps or villages
+ defended by earthen ramparts, were attacked by the Roman expeditions which invaded
+ Britain in the opening years of the Christian Era, and there is evidence for
+ believing that there was a British settlement of considerable importance on the site
+ of Canterbury. Of this there remains a lofty artificial mound, now known as the Dane
+ John&mdash;another form of the familiar donjon. The Romans called it Durovernum, a
+ name perhaps derived from the British Derwhern, and although <a name="Page_11"
+ id="Page_11"></a>their historians are curiously silent in regard to the place there
+ cannot be any doubt that the town rose to great importance in the later years of the
+ four centuries of the Roman occupation of Britain. A glance at a map of the Roman
+ roads in Kent shows Durovernum as a centre for five great ways leading from the coast
+ towns of Portus Lemanis (Lymne), Portus Dubris (Dover), Portus Ritupis (Richborough,
+ near Sandwich), Regulbium (Reculver), and also the Isle of Thanet, and from this
+ important centre the Watling Street ran straight to Londinium. These roads all
+ converge upon the spot where the River Stour became a tidal estuary and where it was
+ fordable, and all who arrived or departed from the ports nearest to Gaul would
+ therefore of necessity pass that way. Another indication of the size of the town is
+ found in the five Roman burial-places discovered close to Canterbury, and if anything
+ else were needed it is only necessary to look at the walls of St. Augustine's Abbey
+ and many other buildings of the Middle Ages to see the large quantities of Roman
+ material then available. Wherever any excavation has taken place in the heart of the
+ present city, the foundations of Roman buildings with tesselated pavements <a
+ name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a>and quantities of pottery, small objects of domestic
+ use, and coins have been brought to light. These remains are all far beneath the
+ present surface, a most significant fact in relation to the transition period between
+ Roman and Saxon Canterbury.</p>
+ <p>The Romans having finally abandoned Britain early in the fifth century, the
+ invasions of the Anglo-Saxons began to take a permanent form, and the Jutes gained
+ possession of the south-eastern corner of England. During the period of struggle
+ between the rival groups of invaders Durovernum must have been entirely abandoned by
+ the Britons, and the conquerors having reduced the city to a shapeless ruin, appear
+ to have allowed it to become over-grown to such an extent that when, after a lapse of
+ perhaps a whole century, the town was rebuilt, no attempt was made to dig down to the
+ former surface. The new buildings therefore arose with their foundations some feet
+ above the original level of the Romano-British city. So complete was the gap between
+ the destroyed Durovernum and the Saxon town which eventually grew up that men had had
+ time to forget the old name, and, finding it necessary to invent one, called it<a
+ name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></a> Cantwarabyrig, which meant the city of the men of
+ Kent. This title reveals the fact that the new settlers had by this time fixed their
+ limits in Kent, and that they had found this site at the junction of all the Roman
+ roads the most convenient for their capital. It was probably not until Ethelbert had
+ begun to reign in 561 that Canterbury became the most important place in Kent, and at
+ that time the site of the Cathedral was outside the town walls. Ethelbert, it should
+ be mentioned, had extended his power so far beyond the confines of Kent that he had
+ authority as far north as the Humber, and Bede writes of "the city of Canterbury,
+ which was the metropolis of all his dominions."</p>
+ <p>Up to the year 597 this Saxon capital, of practically all south-eastern England,
+ was completely heathen, saving only the King's Frankish wife Bertha and Bishop
+ Luidhard, who had come over as her chaplain about the year 575, when the marriage
+ with the heathen Ethelbert had taken place. But in the year 597, that famous landmark
+ in the Christianizing of Saxon England, Augustine, landed&mdash;if Bede may be
+ trusted for a topographical detail of this character&mdash;on the island of
+ Ebbsfleet, where Hengist and Horsa had previously found <a name="Page_14"
+ id="Page_14"></a>a haven for their vessels. This is now part of the corner of Kent,
+ called Thanet, and is an island no longer. There Ethelbert, in that generous and
+ broad-minded speech, familiar to all students of English history, while expressing
+ himself as content with the gods of his forefathers (these included Thor, Woden,
+ Freya, and the rest), yet would place no obstacles in the way of these missionaries
+ of new and strange ideas. He even provided them with quarters in Canterbury, and in
+ the old church of St. Martin outside the city, where Queen Bertha had been in the
+ habit of worshipping with her chaplain, Augustine and his monks began to preach and
+ instruct all who cared to listen. It seems unlikely that the influence of the queen
+ and her good chaplain should have been entirely without results, and it is quite
+ possible that Augustine found the ground prepared for the seed he diligently began to
+ sow. Bishop Luidhard, whose name should always be linked with that of St. Augustine,
+ appears to have died soon after the arrival of Pope Gregory's mission, and his
+ remains were eventually placed in a golden chest in the church of Saints Peter and
+ Paul, afterwards St. Augustine's.</p>
+ <p>The zeal and enthusiasm of the band o <a name="Page_15"
+ id="Page_15"></a>missionaries began to bring in many converts. Ethelbert himself
+ consented to be baptized on June 2 in the year of Augustine's landing, and the Saxons
+ soon began to embrace the new faith in thousands, so that in a very few years the
+ Christianizing of England had made such progress that Canterbury became the
+ headquarters of the Christian Church in England, a position it has held without
+ interruption ever since&mdash;a period of over 1,300 years. It took England nearly
+ nine centuries to make up its mind to rid itself of the stultifying authority of the
+ Bishop of Rome and to shake itself free from monasticism and the various forms of
+ idolatrous worship which grew up in the sultry atmosphere of the Papal Church; but
+ these great changes have been evolved, and still the ancient city of Canterbury,
+ hallowed with so many memories of saintly lives, continues to be the metropolis of
+ the Established Church of England. And the imminence of further change carries with
+ it no danger of any break in this long association of Canterbury with ecclesiastical
+ control, for if in the slow grinding of the wheels of Time there should cease to be a
+ State Church in this land, the organization of the churches holding to the
+ Elizabethan form of worship will no <a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a>doubt continue
+ to be centred and focussed at Canterbury.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_3" id="PLATE_3"></a><img src="./images/plate-3.jpg"
+ alt="CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM THE NORTH WEST." /><br />
+ CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM THE NORTH WEST.<br />
+ The state central or "Bell Harry" Tower is one of the most beautiful works of the
+ Perpendicular period in existence.<a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a></p>
+ <p>As the first church mentioned in history associated with Christian worship St.
+ Martin's occupies a unique position, and yet the fabric of the little building does
+ not conclusively prove that it is even in part the actual church of this fascinating
+ period. Cautious arch&aelig;ologists, represented by Mr. J.T. Micklethwaite, regard
+ the earliest work in St. Martin's as belonging to the Saxon period, Roman materials
+ having merely been worked up by the later builders. On the other hand, there are
+ various careful antiquaries who are willing to accept the oldest parts of the church
+ as Roman, and claim that St. Martin's is a Christian church put up during the Roman
+ occupation. Perhaps the problem will be solved by further discoveries, but until then
+ it seems wiser to regard St. Martin's as being in part a very early Saxon building,
+ very probably standing on the site of the restored Roman church in which Queen Bertha
+ worshipped before Augustine's arrival. Even if it were possible to state that parts
+ of the walls were Roman, it would not be an easy matter to say whether the building
+ were older than the two early Christian churches of North Cornwall, preserved through
+ the ages by the drifting sand of that exposed coastline; therefore, to write, as so
+ many have done, that St. Martin's is the oldest Christian church in England, is not
+ justified by the facts. Besides St. Martin's, William Thorne, a fourteenth century
+ chronicler, makes mention of "a temple or idol-place where Ethelbert had been wont to
+ pray and to sacrifice to demons," and this building, instead of being destroyed, was
+ purged from its defilements and idols and hallowed by Augustine when he dedicated it
+ to St. Pancras the Roman boy-martyr. When the site, about halfway between St.
+ Martin's and St. Augustine's, was excavated in 1901, it was found to possess a nave
+ about 47 feet long by 26 feet wide, with an apsidal chancel nearly the same width and
+ depth separated from the nave by four Roman columns, and Mr. W.H. St. John Hope, of
+ the Society of Antiquaries, who carried out the operations with Canon Routledge, has
+ suggested that this may be the first church built by Augustine out of Roman materials
+ ready to hand, while the larger one, dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, a little to
+ the west, was slowly <a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>being constructed. It was not
+ finished when, in 605, Augustine died, and eventually the dedication included the
+ canonized first archbishop of the English Church, who was buried in the building when
+ it was finished. The other great figures of the period&mdash;Ethelbert and his Queen,
+ and her chaplain&mdash;were also laid to rest in the church. A few years ago it was
+ only possible to form an idea of this large structure from the Norman north wall of
+ the nave and part of the north-west tower, but now that nearly the whole of the
+ eastern end has been excavated one can see the underground portion of practically all
+ the east end and part of the north transept. Ethelbert's son, Eadbald, having been
+ converted two years after his accession, built another church east of that of Saints
+ Peter and Paul, and this was joined on to the abbey church when the east end was
+ extended about the time of the Norman Conquest. At the same time as he began the
+ monastery subsequently called after him, Augustine appears to have made his
+ headquarters close to another early Christian church within the walls of the Saxon
+ city. This, according to Bede, was hallowed "in the name of the Holy Saviour," and
+ thus arose <a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a>the name Christ Church&mdash;the name
+ the cathedral now bears. In these early times there were therefore five Christian
+ churches either restored or under construction, and they were all roughly in a line
+ running east and west. First there was Christ Church and Augustine's
+ residence&mdash;eventually the priory&mdash;within the walls, then the embryo abbey
+ of Saints Peter and Paul, with the chapel of St. Mary a little to the east. Farther
+ still was the church of St. Pancras, and farthest from the city walls, on its little
+ hill, St. Martin's. There are other traces of Saxon work in the church of St. Mildred
+ near the castle, but this is much later than anything that has been discovered on the
+ other sites, and Dr. Cox points out what he claims as pre-Conquest work in St.
+ Dunstan's outside the city, on the Whitstable Road.</p>
+ <p>Canterbury appears to have grown and prospered in spite of various attacks made by
+ the Danes until the year 1011, when the city, after a defence lasting nearly three
+ weeks, fell into the hands of the invaders through treachery from within. Alphege,
+ the good old archbishop, was obliged to witness the savagery of the Danes when they
+ burst through the gates and began a horrible slaughter, which included the monks of<a
+ name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a> Christ Church, and it is said that about 7,000
+ Saxons perished. Not content with all this butchery, they burnt the cathedral.
+ Archbishop Alphege was carried off by the victorious Danes, who at Greenwich gave way
+ to drunken excesses, and in brutal fashion killed their prisoner. The body was
+ brought from London, where it had been buried, back to Canterbury ten years later by
+ Canute, the first Danish King of England, who made what atonement he could by lending
+ his freshly painted state barge for the ceremonious translation of the martyr's
+ remains. Arrived at Canterbury, the King proceeded to further demonstrate his
+ submission to the Church his people had devastated by hanging up his crown in the
+ cathedral which Alphege's successor, Archbishop Living, had reroofed. Canute, having
+ made a journey to Rome in 1031, among other pious resolutions, declared that he would
+ amend his life and conversation, and it was with his help that the Saxon cathedral
+ was properly repaired and decorated.</p>
+ <p>During the year following the Norman Conquest a fire began in Canterbury, which,
+ besides destroying many houses, reduced the unfortunate cathedral to a roofless ruin
+ once more. Three <a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a>years later, in 1070, when
+ Lanfranc was made the first Norman archbishop, he decided that the Saxon walls were
+ worthless, and he swept away every trace of the building, which may have been
+ partially Roman, before proceeding to erect a larger and grander pile in the Norman
+ style familiar to him. One feature of the original church has, nevertheless, left its
+ mark on the Norman cathedral. This was a crypt described by Eadmer, the monkish
+ historian, who, as a boy, saw the Saxon church being demolished. It was only a small
+ affair, but it must have been the most remarkable feature of the comparatively small
+ oblong building, for it was not, properly speaking, a crypt at all, but an undercroft
+ beneath the eastern altars. "To reach these altars," says Eadmer, "a certain crypt,
+ which the Romans call a confessionary, had to be ascended by means of several steps
+ from the choir of the singers. Thus the Norman archbishop, in planning a larger
+ cathedral, constructed a crypt under the choir of his new building, and the steps one
+ ascends to-day are there as the direct outcome of the structural methods of rude
+ Saxon times."</p>
+ <p>Lanfranc completed his new cathedral in 1077, <a name="Page_22"
+ id="Page_22"></a>and in his lifetime he also founded the great Benedictine priory of
+ Christ Church, whose considerable remains add so much medievalism to the surroundings
+ of the vast cathedral. Anselm succeeded Lanfranc after an interval of a few years,
+ during which Rufus found it exceedingly desirable to keep the see vacant while the
+ revenues were diverted into the royal coffers, and scarcely twenty years after his
+ predecessor's church was finished, Prior Ernulph pulled down the east end and
+ constructed in its place the magnificent Norman choir, with its transepts and chapels
+ standing with various alterations to-day. This great work was finished by Prior
+ Conrad, who succeeded Ernulph, and the noble work, which became known as Conrad's
+ Choir, was consecrated in 1130 by Archbishop de Corbeuil. To make this bald statement
+ and omit to mention the ceremony attending it would be misleading; for not only were
+ Henry I. and David of Scotland present, but Canterbury saw such a gathering of
+ dignitaries of Church and State with their splendid retinues that the historian found
+ nothing to compare with it but Solomon's dedication of the Temple!</p>
+ <p>This splendid church, representing the finest achievement of Norman
+ master-builders and <a name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a>workmen, rising high above the
+ domestic quarters of the monastery and standing forth conspicuously from every part
+ of the little walled city, then consisting, to a considerable extent, of low wooden
+ houses, had now reached the stage in its development when it was to be the scene of
+ the murder which was to make Canterbury the most famous resort of pilgrims in Europe.
+ This occurred forty years later; but no change in the great Norman church had taken
+ place in that period.</p>
+ <p>So thrilling is the whole story of Becket's murder that there is every temptation
+ to tell again the tale of Henry II.'s hasty exclamation, and the headlong journey
+ from Normandy to Canterbury made by those four knights whose foul deed history has
+ not ceased to condemn; but for a full account the reader is advised to turn to Dean
+ Stanley's "Historical Memorials of Canterbury." It was in the same year and the same
+ month as his death that Becket had returned from exile to Canterbury after an absence
+ of six years, and at the close of a decade of continual struggle with the King. The
+ Archbishop, having landed at Sandwich on his arrival from France, had been received
+ with the greatest enthusiasm, and the people of Canterbury showed <a name="Page_24"
+ id="Page_24"></a>their delight in every possible manner. There were imposing
+ banquets, and hangings of silk were put up in the cathedral for the great occasion;
+ but at the end of this December, on the gloomy afternoon of the 29th, the four
+ murderers arrived in the city. The day was a Tuesday, the day on which all the great
+ events of Becket's life had taken place; for not only had he been born on a Tuesday,
+ but on that day he had been exiled, on that day he had been warned of his impending
+ martyrdom, and on that day he had returned from exile.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_4" id="PLATE_4"></a> <img src="./images/plate-4.jpg"
+ alt="THE &quot;ANGEL&quot; OR &quot;BELL HARRY&quot; TOWER AND THE BAPTISTERY." /><br />
+ THE "ANGEL" OR "BELL HARRY" TOWER AND THE BAPTISTERY.<br />
+ The massive Norman work is seen here in strong contrast with the lightness and
+ delicacy of the Perpendicular tower.<a name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a></p>
+ <p>While leaving the long story to be told with the amazingly ample detail Dean
+ Stanley was able to employ, one is tempted to quote his account of the first
+ interview between Becket and the four knights, for too often the memory recalls
+ nearly every fact of the murder except the indictment, if it may be so called. The
+ four knights had discarded their weapons and concealed their armour under the cloak
+ and gown of ordinary life on entering the cathedral precincts, so that on their first
+ appearance in the Archbishop's private room their aspect was sinister without being
+ immediately threatening. Becket had just finished dinner, and was seated on his couch
+ talking to his friends when the four knights were announced, and he pointedly
+ continued, his conversation with the monk who sat by him and on whose shoulder he was
+ leaning.</p>
+ <div class='blkquot'>
+ <p>They on their part entered without a word, beyond a greeting exchanged in a
+ whisper to the attendants who stood near the door, and then marched straight to
+ where the Archbishop sate, and placed themselves on the floor at his feet, among
+ the clergy who were reclining around. Radulf the archer sate behind them, on the
+ boards. Becket now turned round for the first time, and gazed steadfastly on each
+ in silence, which he at last broke by saluting Tracy by name. The conspirators
+ continued to look mutely at each other, till Fitzurse, who throughout took the
+ lead, replied with a scornful expression, "God help you!" Becket's face grew
+ crimson, and he glanced round at their countenances, which seemed to gather fire
+ from Fitzurse's speech. Fitzurse again broke forth: "We have a message from the
+ King over the water&mdash;tell us whether you will hear it in private, or in the
+ hearing of all." "As you wish," said the Archbishop. "Nay, as <i>you</i> wish,"
+ said Fitzurse. "Nay, as <i>you</i> wish," said Becket. The monks, at the
+ Archbishop's intimation, withdrew into an adjoining room; but the doorkeeper ran up
+ and kept the door ajar, that they might see from the outside what was going on.</p>
+ </div>
+ <p>Before the knights began the recital of their complaints, however, Becket appears
+ to have become alarmed at the demeanour of the four men, who afterwards admitted that
+ they thought of killing him then and there with the only <a name="Page_26"
+ id="Page_26"></a>weapon that was handy&mdash;a cross-staff that lay at his feet.</p>
+ <div class='blkquot'>
+ <p>The monks hurried back, and Fitzurse, apparently calmed by their presence,
+ resumed his statement of the complaints of the King. The complaints&mdash;which are
+ given by the various chroniclers in very different words&mdash;were three in
+ number. "The King over the water commands you to perform your duty to the King on
+ this side of the water, instead of taking away his crown." "Rather than take away
+ his crown," replied Becket, "I would give him three or four crowns." "You have
+ excited disturbances in the kingdom, and the King requires you to answer for them
+ at his court." "Never," said the Archbishop, "shall the sea again come between me
+ and my Church, unless I am dragged thence by the feet." "You have excommunicated
+ the bishops, and you must absolve them." "It was not I," replied Becket, "but the
+ Pope, and you must go to him for absolution."</p>
+ </div>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_5" id="PLATE_5"></a> <img src="./images/plate-5.jpg"
+ alt="THE CHAPEL OF &quot;OUR LADY&quot; IN THE UNDERCROFT OF THE CATHEDRAL." /><br />
+ THE CHAPEL OF "OUR LADY" IN THE UNDERCROFT OF THE CATHEDRAL.<br />
+ Being entirely above the ground this is not a crypt as it is so often miscalled. The
+ morning light in winter fills the spaces between the massive Norman piers.<a
+ name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a></p>
+ <p>After some more stormy words the knights became irritated by Becket's
+ contradictions, and swore "by God's wounds" that they had endured enough, but Becket,
+ putting aside John of Salisbury's suggestion that he should speak privately to the
+ angry knights, began to complain of the grievances and insults he had himself
+ received during the preceding week: "They have attacked my servants," he said; "they
+ have cut off my sumpter-mule's tail; they have carried off the casks of wine that
+ were the King's own gift." To this Hugh de Moreville, who was the least aggressive of
+ the four, replied: "Why did you not complain to the King of these outrages? Why did
+ you take upon yourself to punish them by your own authority?" But Becket, turning
+ sharply towards him, said: "Hugh! how proudly you lift up your head! When the rights
+ of the Church are violated, I shall wait for no man's permission to avenge them. I
+ will give to the King the things that are the King's, but to God the things that are
+ God's. It is my business, and I alone will see to it." Taking up such an attitude in
+ front of four men who had come hot-foot to Canterbury with the express determination
+ to seek an excuse for killing him, Becket was sealing his own fate.</p>
+ <div class='blkquot'>
+ <p>For the first time in the interview the Archbishop had assumed an attitude of
+ defiance; the fury of the knights broke at once through the bonds which had
+ partially restrained it, and displayed itself openly in those impassioned gestures
+ which are now confined to the half-civilized nations of the South and East, but
+ which seem to have been natural to all classes of medieval Europe. Their eyes
+ flashed fire, they sprang upon their feet, and, rushing close up to him, gnashed
+ their teeth, twisting their long gloves, and wildly threw their arms above their
+ heads. Fitzurse exclaimed: "You threaten us&mdash;you threaten us! are you going to
+ excommunicate us all?"</p>
+ </div>
+ <p><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></a> Becket sprang up from his couch at this
+ insulting demonstration, and in the state of great excitement into which he could
+ fall when roused, he flung down his defiant challenge that all the swords in England
+ could not shake his obedience to the Pope. The four knights, goaded to fury by other
+ passionate words, left him, shouting, "To arms! to arms!" They made their way with an
+ excited throng to the great gateway, where they armed, while the doors were closed to
+ shut off the monastery from communication with the town. The Archbishop seems to have
+ been fully alive to his danger, and yet he persistently refused to take the smallest
+ measure for his safety, opening with his own hands the door from the cloisters into
+ the north transept which some of the monks had closed and barred immediately after
+ they had dragged the Archbishop into the nearly dark building.</p>
+ <p>Vespers had just begun when the murderers entered, but the singing of that service
+ was never completed. The fear of sacrilege induced the knights to try to drag the
+ defenceless Archbishop out of the Cathedral, but he struggled with such vigour,
+ flinging one of the men down on the stone floor, that they gave up the attempt and <a
+ name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></a>killed him with three or four sword strokes, the last
+ of which, as he lay prone, was delivered by Richard le Bret, or the Breton, and so
+ tremendous was the force with which it was delivered that the crown of the head was
+ severed from the skull and the sword broke in two on the pavement.</p>
+ <p>Canterbury being much divided in its attachment to Becket, the murderers found
+ escape easy, and the general regrets most expressed seem to have been at the
+ sacrilege rather than at the murder.</p>
+ <p>It is almost incredible how rapidly Becket became St. Thomas of Canterbury. Within
+ a few hours of the tragic scene, when, night having fallen and the great church being
+ closed and deserted, Osbert, the Archbishop's chamberlain, entering with a light in
+ his hand,found his master's body lying on its face, with the frightful wound exposed,
+ the monks had kissed the hands and feet of the corpse and called him by the name of
+ Saint Thomas. What appears to have raised the fraternity to this enthusiastic
+ anticipation of the canonization, officially announced at Westminster in 1173, was
+ the discovery that Becket had on beneath his outer robes, and the <a name="Page_30"
+ id="Page_30"></a>many other garments he wore, the black cowled cloak of the
+ Benedictines, and next to his skin a hair-cloth shirt of unusual roughness. When the
+ body was being prepared for the tomb this shirt was found to be easily removable for
+ the daily scourging Becket had been in the habit of enduring, the marks of the
+ stripes administered on the previous day being plainly visible. Dean Stanley adds
+ another fact not easy to be believed by those who have never become intimate with the
+ practices of medieval monasticism:</p>
+ <div class='blkquot'>
+ <p>Such austerity had hitherto been unknown to English saints, and the marvel was
+ increased by the sight&mdash;to our notions so revolting&mdash;of the innumerable
+ vermin with which the hair-cloth abounded&mdash;boiling over with them, as one
+ account describes it, like water in a simmering cauldron. At the dreadful sight all
+ the enthusiasm of the previous night revived with double ardour. They looked at one
+ another in silent wonder, then exclaimed, "See, see what a true monk he was, and we
+ knew it not!" and burst into alternate fits of weeping and laughter, between the
+ sorrow at having lost such a head and the joy of having found such a saint.</p>
+ </div>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_6" id="PLATE_6"></a> <img src="./images/plate-6.jpg"
+ alt="THE CHAPEL OF ST. MICHAEL OR THE WARRIORS' CHAPEL." /><br />
+ THE CHAPEL OF ST. MICHAEL OR THE WARRIORS' CHAPEL.<br />
+ It is one of the most interesting Chapels in the Cathedral, containing the tomb of
+ Stephen Langton and in the centre of the drawing that of Lady Margaret Holland and
+ her two husbands.<a name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a></p>
+ <p>Almost immediately the superstitious belief in the efficacy of a martyr's blood
+ made everyone who was permitted to approach Becket's body anxious to obtain a scrap
+ of a blood-stained garment to soak in water with which to anoint the eyes! In a short
+ time many parts of the clothes had been given away to the poor folk of Canterbury;
+ but as soon as the miracle-working properties came to be properly understood these
+ precious shreds of the Archbishop's voluminous garments ran up in value until the
+ possession of such a fragment meant wealth to the owner. Any relic of the body itself
+ had still greater value, its efficacy in curing the multifarious ailments of the
+ pilgrims who began to flock to Canterbury being immeasurable. And when the
+ neighbouring monastery of St. Augustine burned with desire to possess a relic of St.
+ Thomas they offered Roger, the keeper of the "Altars of the Martyrdom," the position
+ of Abbot of their own abbey if he would contrive to bring with him a portion of
+ Becket's skull. Roger had been specially chosen to guard this relic, but he succumbed
+ to the temptation offered by the rival establishment outside the city walls, and
+ having purloined the coveted fragment of the martyr, was duly installed in the
+ highest office of St. Augustine's. Whether the whole affair was public property at
+ the time does not fully appear, but those who recorded events at St. Augustine's <a
+ name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>did not hesitate to glory in the success of their
+ scheme!</p>
+ <p>So great was the popular execration of the murder that the autocratic Archbishop
+ who had not inspired universal admiration in his lifetime was soon to become the most
+ frequently invoked of all the calendar of saints, and the King himself, finding that
+ his submission to the Papal legate at Avranches, two years after the crime, was not
+ sufficient to avert the wrath of Heaven, which seemed to be visiting him in the form
+ of rebellions and disasters in every part of his dominions, came to Canterbury in
+ 1174 and went through a penance of extreme severity. Landing at Southampton, he came
+ by the Pilgrims' Way to Harbledown, and so entered the ancient city. At the church of
+ St. Dunstan, outside the walls, he took off his ordinary dress and walked barefoot
+ through the streets to the monastery of Christ Church. It was a wet day, but being in
+ the month of July the wearing of a shirt only with a cloak to keep off the rain could
+ not have been the cause of very great physical discomfort apart from the cutting of
+ his feet by stones on the road. At the Cathedral they took Henry to the tomb of the
+ man whose death he had caused, and there he knelt and shed bitter tears, groaning and
+ lamenting. After again regretting his rash words in an address read by Gilbert
+ Foliot, Bishop of London, and promising to restore the rights and property of the
+ Church, the King, kneeling at the tomb, wearing a hair-shirt with a woollen one above
+ it, placed his head and shoulders in one of the openings in the tomb and there
+ received five strokes with a monastic rod from each of the bishops and abbots
+ present, and afterwards the eighty monks each administered three strokes. Henry was
+ now quite absolved, but he remained for the whole night with his bare feet still
+ muddy and in the same penitential garb.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_7" id="PLATE_7"></a> <img src="./images/plate-7.jpg"
+ alt="THE SCENE OF THE MARTYRDOM IN THE NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT OF THE CATHEDRAL." /><br />
+ THE SCENE OF THE MARTYRDOM IN THE NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT OF THE CATHEDRAL.<br />
+ Since the tragic death of Becket in 1170 practically everything in this portion of
+ the Cathedral has been re-constructed. <a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a></p>
+ <p>Arriving in London, the King took to his bed, suffering from a dangerous fever,
+ but a few days later, hearing from Richmond in Yorkshire that the Scots had been
+ defeated and driven north, he recovered rapidly, believing implicitly, after the
+ manner of his age, that this success was attributable to the penance he had undergone
+ on the day before the battle.</p>
+ <p>And so, through the savage murder of an archbishop and the severe penance of a
+ king the archiepiscopal capital of England began to resound <a name="Page_34"
+ id="Page_34"></a>all over Europe, and the annual procession of pilgrims commenced to
+ traverse the hills along the old road from Winchester to the little Norman city. Not
+ by that way only did the vast crowds reach Canterbury, for there was scarcely a road
+ that at some period of the year did not send its contribution to the throng which
+ jostled through the gates into the narrow streets leading to the monastery gateway.
+ Year after year wealth poured into the Cathedral coffers, and pilgrims went away
+ lighter in spirits and in purse, but each carrying with them the little leaden bottle
+ in which the infinitely diluted blood of the martyr mixed with water was
+ distributed.</p>
+ <p>Scarcely two months after Henry's penance the splendid choir of the Cathedral
+ caught fire, and the townsfolk, in a state between grief and rage, found themselves
+ unable to stay the progress of the flames until nearly everything that could burn had
+ vanished. The nave suffered less than Conrad's splendid choir, and in that less
+ ruined portion of the building a temporary altar was erected. But for this fire it
+ might have been possible for the modern pilgrim to see the building as it appeared
+ during the stirring events just <a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a>recounted; for,
+ notwithstanding the wealth of the monastery of Christ Church, it would have probably
+ been thought desirable to retain the fabric as much as possible as it appeared in
+ Becket's time. The fire came, however, and the choir was to a great extent rebuilt,
+ but fortunately the chapels were only slightly affected.</p>
+ <p>After careful inquiry the monastery decided to employ William of Sens as architect
+ for the reconstruction, and the excellent work of this clever Norman craftsman lives
+ to-day in the eastern portion of the cathedral church. He set to work soon after the
+ fire; but, after four years of labour, was so much injured by a fall from the
+ scaffolding that he was obliged to abandon his unfinished work and return to his
+ native Normandy. Upon an Englishman named William devolved the task of completing the
+ work.</p>
+ <p>Either following the Frenchman's plans or adapting them to his own ideas, he
+ finished the eastern parts of the church as they stand to-day in the year 1184. To
+ one or both of these architects is due the unusual device of narrowing the choir to
+ avoid altering the site of the Trinity Chapel of Becket's time. When the
+ reconstruction <a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a>of Conrad's Norman choir began, the
+ Gothic style was just beginning to appear&mdash;an incipient tendency towards a
+ pointed arch here and there which grew into what is called the Transitional Period;
+ and to this style&mdash;in between the Romanesque semicircular arch, with its
+ accompanying massiveness, and the first style of Gothic known as Early English,
+ distinguished by the pointed arch, detached pillars decorating the triforium and
+ clerestory, and elaborate mouldings and capitals&mdash;the choir belongs.</p>
+ <p>When the whole of the east end of the cathedral was finished, nearly two centuries
+ elapsed before any further change took place beyond the beginning of the
+ chapter-house. At the commencement of that period, however, one of Canterbury's most
+ magnificent scenes of ecclesiastical pomp occurred in connection with the remains of
+ Becket. The summer of 1220 saw the completion of the new shrine, and on July 7, the
+ translation of the saint's remains was accomplished amid scenes of the most
+ astonishing splendour, described by those who were present as being without a
+ parallel in the history of England, the crowds including people from many foreign
+ countries. Money was spent so lavishly <a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a>on the
+ entertainment of the innumerable persons of distinction who were present or took part
+ in the great ceremony that for several years the finances of the see were
+ unpleasantly reminiscent of the vast expenditure. Henry III. was present, but he was
+ not old enough to be a bearer of the great iron-bound chest containing the poor
+ remnants of Becket's human guise. In the presence of nearly every ecclesiastical
+ dignitary in the land the remains were placed in the newly finished shrine all aglow
+ with jewels set in gold and silver.</p>
+ <p>Throughout the centuries succeeding this crowning glory of Canterbury, the little
+ walled city saw many great functions apart from the yearly stream of pilgrims of
+ every grade of society, and the huge doles of food and drink given away by the two
+ great monasteries and the lesser houses of the city must have brought together an
+ unwholesome concourse of the needy.</p>
+ <p>Every fifty years after the translation of Becket's remains to the great shrine
+ there was a special festival on July 7, when the people of the archiepiscopal city
+ would find their resources strained to the very uttermost in feeding and housing the
+ great assemblage. The martyrdom took place <a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a>on
+ December 29, but owing to the time of the year this festival did not draw so many as
+ the summer one. All through the year the pilgrims came and went, and instead of
+ falling off in numbers as the martyrdom receded, the popularity of the saint did not
+ reach its zenith until the fifteenth century. Royal visits were of frequent
+ occurrence, and of all the cities of England, after London, Canterbury would appear
+ to have entertained more distinguished personages than any other.</p>
+ <p>Between 1378 and 1411 Prior Chillenden pulled down Lanfranc's Norman nave and
+ transept, which had survived the fire, and rebuilt them in the Perpendicular style,
+ then prevailing. When this work was finished and the south-western tower had been
+ completed, in 1481, there was not much left of the Norman priory church built by
+ Lanfranc. The north-western or Arundel Tower, the last survival of Lanfranc's church,
+ was rebuilt in 1840 and made to match its Perpendicular neighbour and the central
+ tower&mdash;the external masterpiece of the cathedral&mdash;commenced by Prior
+ Molashe in 1433, and completed by Prior Selling in the closing years of the century.
+ The piers supporting this tower are Norman with <a name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a>a
+ later casing, and the foundations of the nave walls belong to the same period.</p>
+ <p>Having reached its greatest glories, Canterbury began to decline, and the
+ dissolution of the two great monasteries and the demolishing of Becket's shrine must
+ have been to the city, on a much larger scale, what the sweeping away of all the
+ Shakespearean landmarks and relics from Stratford-on-Avon of to-day would imply.
+ Nevertheless the city could afford to present Queen Elizabeth with &pound;30 in a
+ scented purse when she came thither in 1564, and the fact that Canterbury remained
+ the chief centre of the authority and state of the English Church prevented the city
+ from decaying. And even if this dignity had not remained the position of the town in
+ relation to the comings and goings between England and France would have saved it
+ from any sudden fall from its opulence and greatness before the dissolution.</p>
+ <p>To touch even lightly on the subsequent history of Canterbury is not possible
+ here, but its remarkably interesting story has been woven into a connected narrative
+ by Dr. Cox, whose admirable book should be procured by all who may, by reading this
+ little sketch, feel some of the glamour which the old city has for the writer.</p>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <h2><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a><a id="CHAPTER_III"
+ name='CHAPTER_III'></a>CHAPTER III</h2>
+ <h3>THE CATHEDRAL</h3>
+ <p>From the swelling green hills that look over Canterbury the distant glimpses of
+ the Cathedral towers gleaming in that opalescent light that is the joy of a summer's
+ morning in Kent, are so hauntingly beautiful that it is hard to believe that no
+ disillusionment need be anticipated when the ancient city is entered and the great
+ church seen at close quarters in the midst of a little city whose busy streets are
+ agog with twentieth-century interests; and yet apprehension is entirely needless.
+ From St. Dunstan's Church, where Henry II. stripped himself to a shirt and cloak on
+ entering as a penitent, the road is lined with houses whose quietly picturesque
+ frontages improve as the city proper is neared, and at the end of a most pleasing
+ perspective stands the West Gate, a great stone gateway with round towers. Passing
+ through the archway, one is at <a name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a>once in the narrow,
+ jostling familiarity of the medieval St. Peter's Street. This crosses one at the arms
+ of the Stour, and continues as High Street, becoming increasingly rich in overhanging
+ storeys and curious sixteenth and seventeenth century fronts. One's eye glances
+ rapidly from side to side, until, on the left, an exceedingly narrow turning gives a
+ peep&mdash;such a peep as no other city can give unless it be Rouen&mdash;of the
+ Cathedral's western towers rising above a sumptuously enriched stone gateway framed
+ by tall, timbered houses, which nod towards one another in the neighbourly fashion of
+ old cronies. It might be that the modern pilgrim, whose course is thus arrested by
+ the vision he sees in this cleft called Mercery Lane, might have had some intention
+ of going straight through the city to St. Martin's Church outside the walls to the
+ east; but, if so, he is a strong man who resists the appeal of that narrow way
+ belonging altogether to the world of romance. He stands for a moment transfixed, and
+ then plunges into the opening, forgetful of his original purpose in the vivid reality
+ before him. He walks down the lane trodden century after century by countless
+ pilgrims and enters the Cathedral precincts <a name="Page_42"
+ id="Page_42"></a>through the weather-worn gateway, Prior Goldstone II. built between
+ 1507 and 1517.</p>
+ <p>From the archway the first near vision of the vast pile is unfolded, nearly the
+ whole of the south side being visible. Immediately opposite are the two western
+ towers, the nearer one finished in 1451 and the further rebuilt seventy years ago.
+ The heavily buttressed nave, in the same Perpendicular style, stretches away to the
+ transept, where the eye mounts up higher and higher until it rests on the clustered
+ pinnacles of the <i>campanilis Angeli</i>&mdash;- the Angel Tower, as Prior Molashe
+ by some happy inspiration chose to call the imposing feature he added to his priory
+ church. Beyond the south-west transept appears the plain Norman work of the larger
+ and more massive transept to the east, with its beautiful staircase tower built into
+ the inner angle, a part of Conrad's "glorious" choir. The remaining eastern parts of
+ the Cathedral are not visible from this point, but as one walks eastwards&mdash;the
+ other way is closed by the Archbishop's Palace&mdash;St. Anselm's Tower and Trinity
+ Chapel with its corona, or semicircular extension, successively appear. Armed even
+ with such brief information as that given in the preceding chapter, one gazes on
+ these weathered cliffs of wrought stone with quickened breath, reading into the
+ Transitional Norman work the strange story of the historic murder which brought so
+ much wealth to this spot that the Cathedral in its present form is due to little
+ else. To wipe out Becket's name completely Henry VIII. would have needed to demolish
+ the whole church.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_8" id="PLATE_8"></a> <img src="./images/plate-8.jpg"
+ alt="THE DOORWAY INTO THE TRANSEPT OF MARTYRDOM FROM THE CLOISTERS." /><br />
+ THE DOORWAY INTO THE TRANSEPT OF MARTYRDOM FROM THE CLOISTERS.<br />
+ It was through this doorway that Becket was followed by his murderers on that fatal
+ afternoon in 1170 when the winter twilight was deepening.<a name="Page_43"
+ id="Page_43"></a></p>
+ <p>The smooth turf along the south side of the Cathedral was used by the monks as a
+ lay cemetery, and the fairly extensive space to the south-east shaded by old elms was
+ their own burial-ground. All the monastic buildings were, contrary to the usual
+ custom, on the north, for having only a narrow space between the south side of their
+ church and the wall which Lanfranc built to secure the whole monastery, they
+ naturally built on their extensive piece of ground running right up to the city wall
+ to the north. Rounding the east end of the Cathedral, therefore, one finds under its
+ ample shadow the remains of many of the domestic offices of the great priory. The
+ great hall, with its kitchen and offices, is now part of the house of one of the
+ prebendaries, and is not accessible to the public, but to the west are the
+ interesting ruins of the infirmary. This <a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a>was a
+ long building with aisles, having a chapel opening out of it to the east, so that the
+ sick brethren while lying in their beds could listen to the services. The south
+ arcade of this chapel, consisting of four Norman arches with an ivy-grown clerestory,
+ is still standing, and there are also some arches of the south side of the hall still
+ showing the orange-pink colour produced on the stone by the disastrous fire in 1174,
+ when Conrad's choir was reduced to a ruin. Adjoining the western end of the infirmary
+ hall, and now a part of the Cathedral, is the beautiful Transitional-Norman treasury
+ built on to St. Andrew's Chapel. Going to the right through a passage called the Dark
+ Entry, one has the site of the prior's lodging on the right and on the left the
+ infirmary cloister, and north of it the smaller dormitories of the monks. This
+ passage-way leads through the vaulted Prior's Gate to the Green Court, a wide grassy
+ space shaded by great limes and other trees. Framed between the spreading branches
+ appears one of the most perfect groupings of the Angel Steeple with the piled-up
+ roofs of the library, chapter house, and north-west transept as steps leading up to
+ the vast tower, whose presence has an uplifting effect <a name="Page_45"
+ id="Page_45"></a>on the mind, scarcely equalled by the solemn immensity of the nave
+ when one first enters&mdash;but the interior must wait for a little, while the
+ remaining portions of the precincts are seen.</p>
+ <p>Adjoining the Prior's Gate to the east is the building now used as the Deanery. It
+ was built by Prior Goldstone in late Perpendicular times as a guest-house for the
+ reception of strangers, but has been much altered since that time. At the north-west
+ corner of the court is a very fine Norman gateway, now surrounded by the modern
+ buildings of the King's School, and a little to the right is a Norman staircase,
+ which by the goodness of Providence was allowed to remain when other destruction was
+ in progress. This beautiful and unique example of a staircase of this early period is
+ the most remarkable feature of the monastic remains. Beyond the Green Court Gate
+ stood the almonry and a granary, and south of these buildings was the Archbishop's
+ Palace, so ruined in Puritan times that the remains of a gateway in Palace Street is
+ practically all that can now be seen. The present palace is quite modern. Coming back
+ to the Cathedral, the remarkably picturesque little circular Lavatory Tower standing
+ on late Norman open arches is <a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a>noticeable in its
+ shadowy seclusion among the lofty walls of the choir chapels. This is generally known
+ as the Baptistery, but the name only began to be used when the font Bishop Warner
+ presented to the Cathedral was placed there. In the little garden in front of the
+ Lavatory Tower are two Roman columns brought from Reculver more than a century ago
+ when the church there became a ruin. West of this tower is the library, standing on
+ part of the site of the great dormitory, and opening on to the cloisters is the
+ chapter house, commenced in 1304 by Prior Estria and finished in 1378 by Prior
+ Chillenden. The windows at the east and west ends are the largest in the
+ Cathedral.</p>
+ <p>The great cloister, like the chapter house, largely owes its present appearance to
+ Prior Chillenden, and is of exceedingly beautiful Perpendicular work with a splendid
+ roof of lierne vaulting. Part of the south walk, with the doorway into the north
+ transept&mdash;the successor to the Norman one through which Becket passed to his
+ death&mdash;is shown in Mr. Biscombe Gardner's drawing facing <a href="#Page_43">page
+ 43</a>. If one enters the Cathedral from this point, especially if it should be in
+ the twilight of a gloomy day, the atmosphere of the murder seems to be all about one,
+ notwithstanding the rebuilding at a later period of the actual scene, but the
+ historic entrance is by the south porch facing the great gate of the priory, and as
+ it is still the usual place of entry this short account of the interior will begin at
+ that point.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_9" id="PLATE_9"></a> <img src="./images/plate-9.jpg"
+ alt="THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE IN CANTERBURY." /><br />
+ THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE IN CANTERBURY.<br />
+ This picturesque house of the Franciscans, who came to the town in 1220, stands on a
+ branch of the Stour near Stour Street. <a name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></a></p>
+ <p>The porch belongs to the great period of rebuilding under Prior Chillenden, and,
+ with its double row of canopied niches containing statues, is a beautiful feature,
+ even with the central space which contained a representation of the martyrdom of
+ Becket still vacant since the days of Henry VIII. There is in the first view of a
+ vast Cathedral nave something almost overpowering in its sense of ordered beauty. It
+ may be that average lives are so planless, so haphazard and without order that an
+ achievement of such magnitude representing years of labour and concentrated thought
+ in steadily following out a preconceived plan cannot fail to be a tremendous contrast
+ to the smallness and pettiness of the majority&mdash;a contrast so great that it is
+ mentally and spiritually a glimpse of the world of new possibilities attainable when
+ once the feverish clinging to the ideals of the totem post is abandoned. This vast <a
+ name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a>nave, reminiscent in many ways of Winchester, but far
+ more satisfying, is generally bathed in a cool, greenish light, and is, in reality, a
+ magnificent vestibule to the crowded interest beyond the transept. The effect of
+ emptiness existing to-day is vastly different to what the pilgrims used to gaze upon
+ while waiting their turn to be sprinkled with holy water, for before the Reformation
+ and the complete sweeping away of the enrichments of Roman Catholic times the roof
+ and walls were brilliant with paintings, the windows glowed with the warm colour of
+ medieval glass, sumptuous hangings were suspended in many places and the altars
+ twinkling with lighted candles added much gilding and colour to the aisles. All this
+ barbarous crowding of colour and ornament, all this splendour of a ritual that
+ appealed to an age capable of stilling the voice of conscience with an absolution
+ obtainable for a few pence has passed away, but the vast building remains to tell of
+ the reality of endeavour of one side of monastic life.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_10" id="PLATE_10"></a> <img src="./images/plate-10.jpg"
+ alt="THE PICTURESQUE GABLED HOUSES OF THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS." /><br />
+ THE PICTURESQUE GABLED HOUSES OF THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS.<br />
+ The houses are reflected in the Stour just by King's Bridge, which joins the High
+ Street to St. Peter's Street.<a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a></p>
+ <p>Across the great arch opening into the base of the tower is the supporting arch
+ inserted by Prior Goldstone II., who, as already stated, built the Angel Steeple
+ above the roof-line where it had been left by Chillenden. The arch has been called a
+ disfigurement, and as it was not originally intended such an opinion may be
+ justifiable, and yet the beauty of the reticulated stonework and the consummate skill
+ which conceived the bold simplicity of design is so satisfying that it is scarcely
+ possible to wish that it were absent. Beneath this flying arch appears the splendid
+ western screen, approached by the flight of steps necessitated by the crypt or
+ undercroft, for, being on perfectly level ground, there would have been no need for
+ this unique feature. Among the monuments in the nave aisles those on the south
+ include the memorial to Dean Farrar, who is buried in the great cloister, and William
+ Broughton, Bishop of Sydney and Adelaide, who was a scholar at the King's School. In
+ the north aisle the Tudor monument to Sir T. Hales showing his burial at sea is
+ curious and picturesque, and other memorials are to Charles I.'s organist, Orlando
+ Gibbons, and to the Archbishops Boyes and Sumner.</p>
+ <p>The north-west transept, on the left as the steps to the choir are ascended, is
+ the scene of Becket's martyrdom, and the vergers show the traditional spot where he
+ fell. From the opposite transept, steps lead down to the undercroft, and <a
+ name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>also up to the south choir aisle&mdash;the way the
+ pilgrims approached the shrine of St. Thomas. Also opening from the south-west
+ transept is St. Michael's or the Warrior's Chapel, as it is now popularly called. In
+ the illustration facing <a href="#Page_30">p. 30</a>, the tomb of Lady Margaret
+ Holland and her two husbands, John Beaufort, Earl of Somerset, and Thomas, Duke of
+ Clarence, is shown occupying the centre of the chapel, but it just misses a more
+ interesting, if much less beautiful, tomb, that of Stephen Langton, the courageous
+ Archbishop who took such a leading part in forcing John to sign Magna Charta. The
+ plain sarcophagus is partly within and partly outside the chapel, for when it was
+ rebuilt in the fourteenth century it was extended so much to the east that it became
+ necessary either to move Langton's tomb or else to make an arch in the wall, and the
+ latter course was taken, with the curious result still to be seen. An astonishing
+ contrast to the clear-sighted action of this Norman Archbishop was the attitude of
+ Archbishop Howley (1828-1848) whose bitter hostility to the Reform Bill in 1831 so
+ raised the anger of the people of Canterbury that they greeted his next arrival in
+ the city with showers of stones and rotten eggs.<a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a>
+ In the midst of a howling mob the archiepiscopal carriage slowly struggled to the
+ Deanery, bearing in it the amiable Churchman who was convinced that the Reform Bill
+ was "mischievous in its tendency, and extremely dangerous to the fabric of the
+ constitution." Such words are deeply interesting at the present day, when many people
+ think they see, in progress on the same lines, dangers of an equally unfounded
+ order.</p>
+ <p>Passing along the south aisle of the choir, one gradually sees the whole of the
+ elaborately devised eastern parts of the Cathedral as they were reconstructed by
+ William of Sens and his English successor. The arcades of alternately circular and
+ octagonal pillars have richly carved foliated capitals, and there is a lightness in
+ form and a profusion of carving that tells of the coming of the Gothic
+ style&mdash;indeed, so far in advance of the plain Norman work of Conrad is the
+ present choir that the change to pure Early English is slight in comparison. In its
+ great length this choir is unique, and in the lowness of its vaulted roof is also
+ unusual, but this is accounted for by the undercroft beneath. From the centre of the
+ choir the remarkable inward bend of the walls, necessitated through the determination
+ not to <a name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a>alter the plan of the Trinity Chapel so
+ hallowed by the memory of the Blessed St. Thomas, is very noticeable: to some extent
+ it helps to give one an impression of the great length of the whole choir, with the
+ chapel beyond. The eastern transepts and chapels still have their apsidal chapels
+ almost as they were built by Conrad.</p>
+ <p>Ascending some more steps, the modern pilgrim reaches Trinity Chapel, where his
+ eyes, instead of falling upon a shrine encrusted with jewels and precious metals,
+ merely look between the pillars upon an empty space. A vacant spot, however, can be
+ eloquent enough, and to those who have read Chaucer's "Canterbury Tales" or the late
+ Mr. Snowden Ward's "Canterbury Pilgrimages," if they have gone no farther in the
+ study of this fascinating cult, the site of the shrine whose fame was European is
+ able to give almost as deep a thrill as any experienced by the wayworn folk of the
+ Middle Ages.</p>
+ <p>By going closer and examining the pavement, a shallow groove appears marking the
+ exact position of the base of the shrine. This was worn by the endless stream of
+ pilgrims as they knelt in ecstasy before the object their eyes had longed to feast
+ upon. To the west is a fine thirteenth-century <a name="Page_53"
+ id="Page_53"></a>mosaic pavement similar to that in the Confessor's Chapel at
+ Westminster Abbey, to which it is very fitting to compare this chapel, for if it is
+ not quite a "Chapel of the Kings" it has a King&mdash;Henry IV.&mdash;and a king's
+ eldest son&mdash;the Black Prince&mdash;on either side, and after Westminster Abbey
+ there was scarcely a more sacred spot in the kingdom than this.</p>
+ <p>It was fitting that Henry IV. should be buried here, for he had taken a
+ considerable amount of interest in the rebuilding of the nave, and had been liberal
+ in his financial aid. The effigies of Henry and his second wife, Joan of Navarre, are
+ believed to be faithful representations. Of the tomb of Edward the Black Prince, if
+ space permitted, much could be said, for it is a magnificent piece of work apart from
+ the historical interest that attaches to the soldier Prince, whose two great
+ victories at Cr&eacute;cy and Poitiers have thrilled every English schoolboy during
+ all the subsequent centuries. The strong iron railing has prevented any damage to the
+ bronze or latten effigy, and except for the tarnishing and general deterioration of
+ gilding and paint, one looks on the monument as it was erected in the days of
+ chivalry. All the details of this tomb had been arranged by the<a name="Page_54"
+ id="Page_54"></a> Black Prince himself, and it was he who chose the Norman-French
+ inscription all can plainly read to-day. Above the tomb is suspended a flat canopy of
+ wood with an embattled moulding, and on the underside a much decayed painting of the
+ Trinity, if one may call it such when the Dove is not represented. On the beam from
+ which the canopy is suspended are hung the shield, helmet, velvet coat, brass
+ gauntlets, and empty sword sheath which are the survivals of two complete suits, one
+ for peace, and one for war, which were carried at the funeral as the Prince had
+ ordered in his will.</p>
+ <p>The eastern extension of the chapel is called Becket's Crown, a name tradition
+ associates with the preservation in this chapel of a portion of St. Thomas's skull.
+ One window contains old glass, and in the centre of the floor is placed the chair of
+ Purbeck marble in which the Archbishops are enthroned. As it is no longer considered
+ as old as the days of Augustine the title St. Augustine's Chair must be regarded as a
+ figure of speech.</p>
+ <p>By the most marvellous good fortune the wonderful series of windows in Trinity
+ Chapel, illustrating the many cures wrought at the Shrine of St. Thomas, have come
+ down to the present time almost unharmed, and this magnificent range <a
+ name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a>of thirteenth-century glass is finer than anything
+ else of its period in England. This glass is all prior to 1220, and without it there
+ would have been no representation of the first shrine at all. The colour in these
+ windows is all subservient to the careful drawing of the pictures in the medallions,
+ but in the north choir aisle there are some windows almost of the same period where
+ the colour is as splendid as in any of the early windows at Chartres. For any
+ description of the tombs of the archbishops there is, unfortunately, no space here.
+ In the splendid crypt, besides the interest of the various periods of Norman and
+ Transitional work, there is the rich Perpendicular screenwork of the Chapel of Our
+ Lady of the Undercroft, and the Huguenot Chapel in what was the Black Prince's
+ Chantry. In Tudor times the whole of the undercroft was given up to the French
+ Protestant refugees, who, besides worshipping there, set up their looms in this
+ hallowed portion of the Cathedral where the martyr was laid until his translation in
+ 1220 and where Henry II. had passed the night after his severe penance. This very
+ short description of such a building must be regarded as a mere introduction to the
+ study of a vast subject, for in the space available nothing more is remotely
+ possible.</p>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <h2><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a><a id="CHAPTER_IV"
+ name='CHAPTER_IV'></a>CHAPTER IV</h2>
+ <h3>THE CITY</h3>
+ <p>A walled city generally holds more easily that elusive quality of romance for
+ which the intelligent mind so often hungers than a town that has long ago discarded
+ its old tower-studded girdle. And among the half-dozen or more English towns still
+ possessed of their old mural defences Canterbury holds a high place, because within
+ its walls there are still, in spite of railways and motors and the horrors of
+ twentieth-century advertising, a hundred byways and nooks where the atmosphere of
+ Elizabethan and pre-Reformation England still lurks. The wall itself does not stand
+ out with the splendid completeness of York or Conway, and on the western side it has
+ vanished altogether, while of the seven or eight gates, one only&mdash;the West
+ Gate&mdash;has been saved; yet, while walking in the narrow, picturesque streets, it
+ is difficult to forget that Canterbury is a walled city. Until well into last century
+ all the gates were standing; but one by one these ornaments were destroyed by the
+ city until one only was left, and even that would have been wantonly sacrificed to
+ facilitate the entry of some circus caravans when, in 1850, Wombwell's menagerie
+ visited the city! This vandal showman actually dared to request the Corporation to
+ demolish the gate on account of the difficulty of getting his procession through the
+ low arch. This is hard to believe, but it is infinitely more difficult to understand
+ the aboriginal minds of some of the members of the Corporation when the records
+ unblushingly reveal that the showman's preposterous request not only found both a
+ proposer and a seconder, but that the votes were equally divided on the matter, and
+ it was only the Mayor's casting vote which has preserved for the city its noble
+ entry. Such a searchlight as this, throwing into dazzling clearness the almost entire
+ lack of appreciation for its historic buildings possessed by the controllers of the
+ city must make one grateful for the happy chances which have permitted so much that
+ is old and picturesque to survive.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_11" id="PLATE_11"></a> <img src="./images/plate-11.jpg"
+ alt="WESTGATE, CANTERBURY, FROM WITHIN." /><br />
+ WESTGATE, CANTERBURY, FROM WITHIN.<br />
+ This is the only survivor of the gates which studded the medi&aelig;val walls of the
+ city.]<a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a></p>
+ <p>From the East Station there extends as far as <a name="Page_58"
+ id="Page_58"></a>the site of the old Riding Gate a well-preserved length of the wall
+ with semicircular towers at intervals, and from opposite Lady Wootton's Green to St.
+ Mary's Church, standing close to the site of North Gate, lengths of the wall, with a
+ tower at intervals, form thrillingly medieval foregrounds for the Cathedral towers.
+ In Pound Lane the wall continues in a furtive and rather desultory fashion until it
+ ends at the West Gate. Opposite Lady Wootton's Green there still remain indications
+ of a narrow postern, which is generally accepted as that through which Queen Bertha
+ was wont to pass on her way to her devotions at St. Martin's Church. This, however,
+ presupposes that the portion of the wall immediately surrounding this particular
+ point is Roman or very Early Saxon, and also that the walls of the city occupied the
+ same position, at least as far as this point, as those built at the end of the
+ twelfth century.</p>
+ <p>Mr. T. Godfrey Faussett's plan of Roman Canterbury appears to carry the wall just
+ as far as this point, and then turns at an acute angle towards the south side of the
+ Cathedral. Following the direction Queen Bertha would have taken brings one to the
+ great gateway of St. Augustine's Abbey, the Benedictine monastery <a name="Page_59"
+ id="Page_59"></a>founded by Augustine on the land given for that purpose by
+ Ethelbert. It was at first dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, and the original
+ buildings were finished in 613. Having become the place of burial for the Kings of
+ Kent and the Archbishops, the Abbey quite overshadowed the Priory of Christ Church,
+ until in 758 Archbishop Cuthbert was secretly buried within the claustral confines of
+ his own priory. At the Dissolution Henry converted the stately buildings into a
+ palace, so that the royal visits, which had been of no infrequent occurrence in the
+ days of monastic hospitality, continued; and while the lordly pile passed through the
+ hands of various owners, Elizabeth, Charles I., and Charles II. paid visits on
+ various occasions.</p>
+ <p>A century ago, when appreciation of the architecture of the dead centuries when
+ Englishmen built with superlative skill had ebbed to its lowest, the Abbey had sunk
+ to inconceivably debased uses. The monastic kitchen had been converted into a
+ public-house, and the great gateway&mdash;the finest structural relic of the
+ Abbey&mdash;had become the entrance to a brewery, while cock-fighting took place in
+ the state bedroom above. The pilgrims' guest hall, now the college dining-hall, had
+ become a dancing-hall, and the <a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a>ground, unoccupied
+ by buildings, soil hallowed by the memories of so many saintly lives and associated
+ with the momentous days when England was being released from the toils of pagan
+ ignorance became known as "the Old Palace Tea-gardens." The popular mind had
+ seemingly forgotten the original uses of the place they were desecrating with
+ fireworks and variety shows.</p>
+ <p>At last, in 1844, Mr. Beresford Hope rescued the half-destroyed remnants of the
+ abbey-palace, and through his generosity the present missionary college was founded,
+ and the buildings restored or reconstructed. A more happy idea could scarcely have
+ been suggested than that of associating the abbey founded by the first missionary of
+ Christianity to England with modern efforts to carry the light into the dark places
+ of the earth. The much-restored gateway, built by Abbot Fyndon at the beginning of
+ the fourteenth century, the guest-hall, and part of the memorial chapel, are the
+ chief portions of the old structures incorporated into the buildings that surround
+ three sides of the college quadrangle. Standing apart to the south is one of the huge
+ walls of the nave of the abbey church, and to the east are the extensive excavations
+ of the east end of <a name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a>the crypt and other
+ fascinatingly early remains of the historic churches mentioned in an earlier chapter
+ (<a href="#Page_17">p. 17</a>).</p>
+ <p>Leaving the Abbey grounds, and continuing to the east, one reaches in a few
+ minutes the little church of St. Martin set on the knoll to which Queen Bertha
+ directed her steps. It is, however, a disappointingly familiar type of Early English
+ village church to the casual glance, and until the fabric and the remarkable font
+ have been examined and discussed in the light of modern scientific arch&aelig;ology
+ it is difficult to appreciate the hoary antiquity of at least parts of the structure.
+ To understand the indications of the Saxon, or possibly Roman, work in the fabric,
+ and to know the reasons for considering the font a relic of Saxon times, it is
+ scarcely possible to find a better instructor than Canon Routledge, whose little book
+ is all one can desire.</p>
+ <p>When the Cathedral, the Abbey, and St. Martin's Church have been visited, it is
+ too often thought that Canterbury has yielded up all her treasures, but this is an
+ amazingly mistaken idea. There still remain to be seen the Castle, the walls, the old
+ inns, the many interesting examples of early domestic architecture, the remains of
+ the lesser religious houses and hospitals, a wonderful array of interesting <a
+ name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a>churches, and the excellent museum. Of the Castle the
+ great Norman keep, completed about 1125, still stands, having been allowed to remain
+ because the walls were found to be too hard to easily destroy; but up to the time of
+ writing the Corporation has not purchased the immense shell, and it therefore remains
+ a storage place for the coal of the adjoining gasworks. The remains of the buildings
+ of the Black, or Preaching, Friars, and those of the Grey Friars, who belonged to the
+ rule of St. Francis, are on islands formed by the Stour, and are marked in nearly
+ every plan of the town. The hospitals include that of St. John the Baptist in North
+ Gate Street, Eastbridge Hospital in St. Peter Street, and the Poor Priests' Hospital
+ near Stour Street. Outside the city, at Harbledown, is the interesting old Hospital
+ of St. Nicholas, a home for lepers, who were separately housed.</p>
+ <p>Of the churches it would be easy to write a great deal, but there is merely space
+ to point out that the only one lacking in interest is All Saints' in High Street. At
+ St. Dunstan's the head of Sir Thomas More is preserved in a vault, but it is never
+ possible to see it, and one must be content with the picturesque brick gateway of the
+ Roper house in St. Dunstan's Street.<a name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a></p>
+ <table summary="Plan 2">
+ <tr>
+ <th>KEY TO NUMBERS.</th>
+ <th>PLAN OF CANTERBURY CASTLE.</th>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>
+ <ol>
+ <li>Door to Cloisters.</li>
+ <li>Door In Cloisters.</li>
+ <li>Dean's (or Lady) Chapel.</li>
+ <li>St. Michael's Chapel.</li>
+ <li>Baptistery.</li>
+ <li>Library (Howleian).</li>
+ <li>Treasury.</li>
+ <li>Chapel of King Henry IV.</li>
+ <li>Arundel Tower (N.W.).</li>
+ <li>Dunstan Tower (S.W.).</li>
+ <li>Entrance to French Church.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Benson.</li>
+ <li>Bishop Parry.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Sumner.</li>
+ <li>Sir T. Hales.</li>
+ <li>Colonel Stuart.</li>
+ <li>Dr. Beaney.</li>
+ <li>Dean Fotherbye.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Chicheley.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Bourchier.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Kemp.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Sudbury.</li>
+ <li>St. Dunstan (site).</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Tait.</li>
+ <li>King Henry IV.</li>
+ <li>Edward, the Black Prince.</li>
+ <li>Becket's Shrine (site).</li>
+ <li>Cardinal Pole.</li>
+ <li>Unknown.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Mepham.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Winchelsey.</li>
+ <li>Henry de Estria.</li>
+ <li>Stephen Langton.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop's ancient Chair.</li>
+ <li>Memorial to Dean Farrar.</li>
+ <li>Wm. Broughton, Bishop of Sydney and Adelaide.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Boyes.</li>
+ <li>Tomb of Dean Farrar.</li>
+ <li>Tomb of Archbishop Temple.</li>
+ <li>Two columns from Reculver.</li>
+ </ol>
+ </td>
+ <td><a name="PLAN_2" id="PLAN_2"></a><a href="./images/plan-2.png"><img
+ src="./images/plan-2_th.jpg" alt="PLAN OF CANTERBURY CASTLE." /></a></td>
+ </tr>
+ </table>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <h2><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a><a id="INDEX" name='INDEX'></a>INDEX</h2>
+ <p>Alphege, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a><br />
+ Angel Steeple, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_48">48</a><br />
+ Anglo-Saxon invasions, <a href="#Page_12">12</a><br />
+ Archbishop's Palace, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a><br />
+ Augustine, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Becket, Thomas &agrave;, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_23">23-28</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a><br />
+ Bertha (Ethelbert's Queen), <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a><br />
+ Black Prince, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_55">55</a><br />
+ Boyes, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+ Bret, Richard le, <a href="#Page_29">29</a><br />
+ Broughton, Bishop, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+ <br />
+ C&aelig;sar, Julius, <a href="#Page_10">10</a><br />
+ Canute, <a href="#Page_20">20</a><br />
+ Castle, the, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br />
+ Cathedral, the, <a href="#Page_40">40-55</a><br />
+ Charles I., <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br />
+ Charles II., <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br />
+ Chartres, windows at, <a href="#Page_55">55</a><br />
+ Chillenden, Prior, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a><br />
+ Clarence, Thomas, Duke of, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ Conrad's choir, <a href="#Page_34">34</a><br />
+ Conrad, Prior, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_52">52</a><br />
+ Corbeuil, Archbishop de, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+ Cuthbert, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Dane John, the, <a href="#Page_10">10</a><br />
+ Danes, the, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a><br />
+ David I. of Scotland, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+ Dover, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Eadbald, <a href="#Page_18">18</a><br />
+ Eadmer, <a href="#Page_21">21</a><br />
+ Elizabeth, Queen, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br />
+ Ernulph, Prior, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+ Estria, Prior, <a href="#Page_46">46</a><br />
+ Ethelbert, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Farrar, Dean, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+ Fitzurse, Reginald, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><br />
+ Foliot, Gilbert, <a href="#Page_33">33</a><br />
+ Fyndon, Abbot, <a href="#Page_60">60</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Gates of Canterbury, the, <a href="#Page_56">56-58</a><br />
+ Gibbons, Orlando, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+ Goldstone II., Prior, <a href="#Page_48">48</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Hales, Sir T., tomb of, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+ Harbledown, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_62">62</a><br />
+ Hengist and Horsa, <a href="#Page_13">13</a><br />
+ Henry I., <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+ Henry II., <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a><br />
+ Henry III., <a href="#Page_37">37</a><br />
+ Henry IV., tomb of, <a href="#Page_53">53</a><br />
+ Henry VIII., <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br />
+ Holland, Lady Margaret, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ Hospitals, medieval, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br />
+ Howley, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ Huguenot Chapel, <a href="#Page_55">55</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Joan of Navarre, <a href="#Page_53">53</a><br />
+ John, King, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ <br />
+ King's school, the, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Lady Wootton's Green, <a href="#Page_58">58</a><br />
+ Lanfranc, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a><br />
+ Langton, Stephen, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ Living, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_20">20</a><br />
+ Luidhard, Bishop, <a href="#Page_13">13</a><br />
+ Lymne, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Magna Charta, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ Mercery Lane, <a href="#Page_41">41</a><br />
+ Molashe, Prior, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a><br />
+ More, Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br />
+ Moreville, Hugh de, <a href="#Page_27">27</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Norman staircase, <a href="#Page_45">45</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Pilgrims' Way, the, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_34">34</a><br />
+ Prior's Gate, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Reculver, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a><br />
+ Reform Bill, the, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a><br />
+ Religious houses, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br />
+ Richborough, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br />
+ Roman Canterbury, <a href="#Page_10">10-12</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a><br />
+ <br />
+ St. Augustine's Abbey, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58-60</a><br />
+ St. Dunstan, Church of, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br />
+ <br />
+ St. Martin, Church of, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_58">58</a><br />
+ St. Mildred, Church of, <a href="#Page_19">19</a><br />
+ St. Pancras, Church of, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a><br />
+ Salisbury, John of, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><br />
+ Sandwich, <a href="#Page_23">23</a><br />
+ Selling, Prior, <a href="#Page_38">38</a><br />
+ Somerset, John Beaufort, Earl of, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ Stanley, Dean, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_30">30</a><br />
+ Sumner, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Thorn, William, <a href="#Page_17">17</a><br />
+ Tracy, William de, <a href="#Page_25">25</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Walls of the city, <a href="#Page_56">56-59</a><br />
+ Warrior's Chapel, the, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ West gate, the, <a href="#Page_56">56-57</a><br />
+ William of Sens, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a><br />
+ William Rufus, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+ William the Englishman, <a href="#Page_35">35</a><br />
+ </p>
+ <p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13890 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #13890 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/13890)
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Beautiful Britain, by Gordon Home
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Beautiful Britain
+
+Author: Gordon Home
+
+Release Date: October 29, 2004 [eBook #13890]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEAUTIFUL BRITAIN***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Ted Garvin, Victoria Woosley, and the Project Gutenberg
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team (www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+ file which includes the original lovely illustrations.
+ See 13890-h.htm or 13890-h.zip:
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/3/8/9/13890/13890-h/13890-h.htm)
+ or
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/3/8/9/13890/13890-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+BEAUTIFUL BRITAIN
+
+Canterbury
+
+by
+
+GORDON HOME
+
+MCMXI
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+ "When that Aprillé with his showerés soote [= sweet]
+ The drought of March hath piercéd to the roote,
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ "Then longen folk to go on pilgrimages,
+ And palmers for to seeken strangé strands,
+ To ferme [=ancient] halwes [=shrines] knowthe [=known] in sundry lands
+ And specially from every shirés end
+ Of Engéland, to Canterbury they wend,
+ The holy, blissful martyr for to seek
+ That them hath holpen when that they were sick."
+
+ CHAUCER: _Canterbury Tales_.
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+ CHAPTER
+ I. THE PILGRIM'S APPROACH TO THE CITY
+ II. THE STORY OF CANTERBURY
+ III. THE CATHEDRAL
+ IV. THE CITY
+ INDEX
+
+
+ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+ PLATE
+
+ 1. THE NAVE OF CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL (Frontispiece)
+ 2. CHRIST CHURCH GATE
+ 3. THE CATHEDRAL FROM NORTH-WEST
+ 4. THE "ANGEL" OR "BELL HARRY" TOWER AND THE LAVATORY TOWER OF THE
+ CATHEDRAL
+ 5. THE CHAPEL OF "OUR LADY" IN THE UNDERCROFT OF THE CATHEDRAL
+ 6. THE WARRIOR'S CHAPEL
+ 7. THE MARTYRDOM IN THE NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT
+ 8. THE DOORWAY FROM THE CLOISTERS TO THE MARTYRDOM
+ 9. THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE IN CANTERBURY
+ 10. THE HOUSE OF THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS
+ 11. WESTGATE CANTERBURY FROM WITHIN
+ 12. THE NORMAN STAIRCASE TO THE KING'S SCHOOL (On the cover)
+
+
+
+[Illustration: PLAN OF CANTERBURY, SHOWING THE CHIEF STREETS AND THE
+ MOST INTERESTING BUILDINGS.
+REFERENCE
+ A. Mercery Lane.
+ B. St. Peter's Church.
+ C. All Saints' Church.
+ D. St. Margaret's Church.
+ E. Poor Priests' Hospital.
+ F. St. Margarets Street.
+ G. Green Court.
+ H. Archbishops' Palace.
+ J. Norman Staircase.
+ K. St. George's Church.
+ L. Site Of Roman Gate.
+ M. Greyfriars.
+ N. Christ Church Gate.
+ O. St. Alphege's Church.
+ P. St. Mary Bredin Church]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE PILGRIM'S APPROACH TO THE CITY
+
+
+It was on April 24, 1538, that a writ of summons was sent forth in the
+name of Henry VIII., "To thee, Thomas Becket, some time Archbishop of
+Canterbury"--who had then been dead for 368 years--"to appear within
+thirty days to answer to a charge of treason, contumacy, and rebellion
+against his sovereign lord, King Henry II." But the days passed, and no
+spirit having stirred the venerated bones of the wonder-working saint,
+on June 10 judgment was given in favour of Henry, and it was decreed
+that the Archbishop's bones were to be burnt, and his world-famous
+shrine overlaid with gold and sparkling with jewels was to be
+forfeited to the Crown. Further than this went the sentence, for
+Thomas of Canterbury was to be a saint no longer, and his name and
+memory were to be wiped out. The remains were not burned, but
+throughout the land every statue, wall-painting, and window to the
+said Thomas Becket was rigorously searched out and destroyed, and from
+every record his name was carefully erased. And so it came about that
+the year 1538 saw the last pilgrimage to the shrine of St. Thomas the
+Martyr.
+
+A growing incredulity had prepared the way for this wave of
+iconoclasm, and the shrine once destroyed ended for ever this first
+phase of the Canterbury pilgrimages. It might have been truly thought,
+if anyone ever gave a moment to such speculations a century ago, when
+Englishmen cared little for the landmarks of their island story, that
+the last pilgrim who would ever wend his way along the old road to
+Canterbury had died in the sixteenth century, and yet how profoundly
+untrue would that impression have been in the light of the new
+enthusiasm for the site of the shrine! A considerable literature on
+the Pilgrims' Way from Winchester has already sprung up, and this
+little book is itself a souvenir for the pilgrim to carry away as
+evidence of the journey he has made, provided he cares to write
+inside the cover his name, the date of his visit, and the two words
+"at Canterbury."
+
+Now, I do not disguise the fact that many of the twentieth-century
+pilgrims are not possessed of the true spirit of the devotee, and
+instead of approaching the object of their journey by the old-time
+way, along the beautiful hills of Surrey and Kent, they use the iron
+road which rushes them all unprepared into the city of the
+saint-martyr. But who will maintain that all those who formed the
+motley throng of the medieval pilgrimages came with their minds
+properly attuned, and who is prepared to say that because the majority
+of modern pilgrims consummate their aim by using the convenience of
+the railway they are less devout than Chaucer's merchant,
+serjeant-at-law, doctor of physic, and the rest who rode on
+horseback--the most convenient, rapid, and comfortable method of
+travel then available?
+
+There is, however, a material disadvantage suffered by those who use
+the railway, in that they miss the first view of the Cathedral city
+set in the midst of soft-swelling eocene hills, which comes as the
+first stage of the gradual unfolding of the tragic story. The
+lukewarm pilgrim should therefore remember that he will add vastly to
+the richness of his impressions if he deserts his train at Selling or
+Chartham and walks the rest of the way over Harbledown, where he will
+see the little city of the Middle Ages encircled with its ancient wall
+and crowned by the towers of its cathedral very much as did the
+cosmopolitan groups of travel-soiled men and women who for century
+after century feasted their eyes from the selfsame spot.
+
+[Illustration: CHRIST CHURCH GATEWAY, CANTERBURY.
+This beautiful entrance to the Cathedral precincts was built between
+1507 and 1517. The richly sculptured stone has weathered exceedingly.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+THE STORY OF CANTERBURY
+
+
+It would be a mistake to imagine that it solely was due to that bloody
+deed perpetrated on a certain December afternoon back in Norman times
+that Canterbury occupies a place of such pre-eminence in English
+history, for the city was ancient before the days of Thomas of
+Canterbury; and in this short chapter it is the writer's endeavour to
+indicate the position of that tragic occurrence in the chronology of
+the former Kentish capital.
+
+The earliest people who have left evidence of their existence near
+Canterbury belong to the Palæolithic Age; but as it is not known
+whether this remote prehistoric population occupied the actual site,
+or even whether the valley may not have then been a salt-water creek,
+it is wiser in this brief sketch to pass over these primitive people
+and the lake-dwellers who, after a considerable interval, were
+possibly their successors, and come to the surer ground of history.
+This brings us to the early Roman invasions of Britain and Julius
+Cæsar's description of the people of Kent, whose civilization he found
+on a higher level than in the other parts he penetrated. He described
+them as being little different in their manner of living from the
+Gauls, whose houses were built of planks and willow-branches, roofed
+with thatch, and were large and circular in form, but he adds:
+
+ All the Britons dye themselves with woad, which gives them a
+ bluish colour, and so makes them very dreadful in battle. They
+ have long hair, and shave all the body except the head and
+ upper lip.
+
+These people, owning allegiance to various chiefs and living in camps
+or villages defended by earthen ramparts, were attacked by the Roman
+expeditions which invaded Britain in the opening years of the
+Christian Era, and there is evidence for believing that there was a
+British settlement of considerable importance on the site of
+Canterbury. Of this there remains a lofty artificial mound, now known
+as the Dane John--another form of the familiar donjon. The Romans
+called it Durovernum, a name perhaps derived from the British
+Derwhern, and although their historians are curiously silent in
+regard to the place there cannot be any doubt that the town rose to
+great importance in the later years of the four centuries of the Roman
+occupation of Britain. A glance at a map of the Roman roads in Kent
+shows Durovernum as a centre for five great ways leading from the
+coast towns of Portus Lemanis (Lymne), Portus Dubris (Dover), Portus
+Ritupis (Richborough, near Sandwich), Regulbium (Reculver), and also
+the Isle of Thanet, and from this important centre the Watling Street
+ran straight to Londinium. These roads all converge upon the spot
+where the River Stour became a tidal estuary and where it was
+fordable, and all who arrived or departed from the ports nearest to
+Gaul would therefore of necessity pass that way. Another indication of
+the size of the town is found in the five Roman burial-places
+discovered close to Canterbury, and if anything else were needed it is
+only necessary to look at the walls of St. Augustine's Abbey and many
+other buildings of the Middle Ages to see the large quantities of
+Roman material then available. Wherever any excavation has taken place
+in the heart of the present city, the foundations of Roman buildings
+with tesselated pavements and quantities of pottery, small objects of
+domestic use, and coins have been brought to light. These remains are
+all far beneath the present surface, a most significant fact in
+relation to the transition period between Roman and Saxon Canterbury.
+
+The Romans having finally abandoned Britain early in the fifth
+century, the invasions of the Anglo-Saxons began to take a permanent
+form, and the Jutes gained possession of the south-eastern corner of
+England. During the period of struggle between the rival groups of
+invaders Durovernum must have been entirely abandoned by the Britons,
+and the conquerors, having reduced the city to a shapeless ruin,
+appear to have allowed it to become over-grown to such an extent that
+when, after a lapse of perhaps a whole century, the town was rebuilt,
+no attempt was made to dig down to the former surface. The new
+buildings therefore arose with their foundations some feet above the
+original level of the Romano-British city. So complete was the gap
+between the destroyed Durovernum and the Saxon town which eventually
+grew up that men had had time to forget the old name, and, finding it
+necessary to invent one, called it Cantwarabyrig, which meant the
+city of the men of Kent. This title reveals the fact that the new
+settlers had by this time fixed their limits in Kent, and that they
+had found this site at the junction of all the Roman roads the most
+convenient for their capital. It was probably not until Ethelbert had
+begun to reign in 561 that Canterbury became the most important place
+in Kent, and at that time the site of the Cathedral was outside the
+town walls. Ethelbert, it should be mentioned, had extended his power
+so far beyond the confines of Kent that he had authority as far north
+as the Humber, and Bede writes of "the city of Canterbury, which was
+the metropolis of all his dominions."
+
+Up to the year 597 this Saxon capital, of practically all
+south-eastern England, was completely heathen, saving only the King's
+Frankish wife Bertha and Bishop Luidhard, who had come over as her
+chaplain about the year 575, when the marriage with the heathen
+Ethelbert had taken place. But in the year 597, that famous landmark
+in the Christianizing of Saxon England, Augustine, landed--if Bede may
+be trusted for a topographical detail of this character--on the island
+of Ebbsfleet, where Hengist and Horsa had previously found a haven
+for their vessels. This is now part of the corner of Kent, called
+Thanet, and is an island no longer. There Ethelbert, in that generous
+and broad-minded speech, familiar to all students of English history,
+while expressing himself as content with the gods of his forefathers
+(these included Thor, Woden, Freya, and the rest), yet would place no
+obstacles in the way of these missionaries of new and strange ideas.
+He even provided them with quarters in Canterbury, and in the old
+church of St. Martin outside the city, where Queen Bertha had been in
+the habit of worshipping with her chaplain, Augustine and his monks
+began to preach and instruct all who cared to listen. It seems
+unlikely that the influence of the queen and her good chaplain should
+have been entirely without results, and it is quite possible that
+Augustine found the ground prepared for the seed he diligently began
+to sow. Bishop Luidhard, whose name should always be linked with that
+of St. Augustine, appears to have died soon after the arrival of Pope
+Gregory's mission, and his remains were eventually placed in a golden
+chest in the church of Saints Peter and Paul, afterwards St.
+Augustine's.
+
+The zeal and enthusiasm of the band of missionaries began to bring in
+many converts. Ethelbert himself consented to be baptized on June 2 in
+the year of Augustine's landing, and the Saxons soon began to embrace
+the new faith in thousands, so that in a very few years the
+Christianizing of England had made such progress that Canterbury
+became the headquarters of the Christian Church in England, a position
+it has held without interruption ever since--a period of over 1,300
+years. It took England nearly nine centuries to make up its mind to
+rid itself of the stultifying authority of the Bishop of Rome and to
+shake itself free from monasticism and the various forms of idolatrous
+worship which grew up in the sultry atmosphere of the Papal Church;
+but these great changes have been evolved, and still the ancient city
+of Canterbury, hallowed with so many memories of saintly lives,
+continues to be the metropolis of the Established Church of England.
+And the imminence of further change carries with it no danger of any
+break in this long association of Canterbury with ecclesiastical
+control, for if in the slow grinding of the wheels of Time there
+should cease to be a State Church in this land, the organization of
+the churches holding to the Elizabethan form of worship will no doubt
+continue to be centred and focussed at Canterbury.
+
+[Illustration: CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM THE NORTH WEST.
+The state central or "Bell Harry" Tower is one of the most beautiful
+works of the Perpendicular period in existence.]
+
+As the first church mentioned in history associated with Christian
+worship St. Martin's occupies a unique position, and yet the fabric of
+the little building does not conclusively prove that it is even in
+part the actual church of this fascinating period. Cautious
+archæologists, represented by Mr. J. T. Micklethwaite, regard the
+earliest work in St. Martin's as belonging to the Saxon period, Roman
+materials having merely been worked up by the later builders. On the
+other hand, there are various careful antiquaries who are willing to
+accept the oldest parts of the church as Roman, and claim that St.
+Martin's is a Christian church put up during the Roman occupation.
+Perhaps the problem will be solved by further discoveries, but until
+then it seems wiser to regard St. Martin's as being in part a very
+early Saxon building, very probably standing on the site of the
+restored Roman church in which Queen Bertha worshipped before
+Augustine's arrival. Even if it were possible to state that parts of
+the walls were Roman, it would not be an easy matter to say whether
+the building were older than the two early Christian churches of
+North Cornwall, preserved through the ages by the drifting sand of
+that exposed coastline; therefore, to write, as so many have done,
+that St. Martin's is the oldest Christian church in England, is not
+justified by the facts. Besides St. Martin's, William Thorne, a
+fourteenth century chronicler, makes mention of "a temple or
+idol-place where Ethelbert had been wont to pray and to sacrifice to
+demons," and this building, instead of being destroyed, was purged
+from its defilements and idols and hallowed by Augustine when he
+dedicated it to St. Pancras the Roman boy-martyr. When the site, about
+halfway between St. Martin's and St. Augustine's, was excavated in
+1901, it was found to possess a nave about 47 feet long by 26 feet
+wide, with an apsidal chancel nearly the same width and depth
+separated from the nave by four Roman columns, and Mr. W.H. St. John
+Hope, of the Society of Antiquaries, who carried out the operations
+with Canon Routledge, has suggested that this may be the first church
+built by Augustine out of Roman materials ready to hand, while the
+larger one, dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, a little to the west,
+was slowly being constructed. It was not finished when, in 605,
+Augustine died, and eventually the dedication included the canonized
+first archbishop of the English Church, who was buried in the building
+when it was finished. The other great figures of the period--Ethelbert
+and his Queen, and her chaplain--were also laid to rest in the church.
+A few years ago it was only possible to form an idea of this large
+structure from the Norman north wall of the nave and part of the
+north-west tower, but now that nearly the whole of the eastern end has
+been excavated one can see the underground portion of practically all
+the east end and part of the north transept. Ethelbert's son, Eadbald,
+having been converted two years after his accession, built another
+church east of that of Saints Peter and Paul, and this was joined on
+to the abbey church when the east end was extended about the time of
+the Norman Conquest. At the same time as he began the monastery
+subsequently called after him, Augustine appears to have made his
+headquarters close to another early Christian church within the walls
+of the Saxon city. This, according to Bede, was hallowed "in the name
+of the Holy Saviour," and thus arose the name Christ Church--the name
+the cathedral now bears. In these early times there were therefore
+five Christian churches either restored or under construction, and
+they were all roughly in a line running east and west. First there was
+Christ Church and Augustine's residence--eventually the priory--within
+the walls, then the embryo abbey of Saints Peter and Paul, with the
+chapel of St. Mary a little to the east. Farther still was the church
+of St. Pancras, and farthest from the city walls, on its little hill,
+St. Martin's. There are other traces of Saxon work in the church of
+St. Mildred near the castle, but this is much later than anything that
+has been discovered on the other sites, and Dr. Cox points out what he
+claims as pre-Conquest work in St. Dunstan's outside the city, on the
+Whitstable Road.
+
+Canterbury appears to have grown and prospered in spite of various
+attacks made by the Danes until the year 1011, when the city, after a
+defence lasting nearly three weeks, fell into the hands of the
+invaders through treachery from within. Alphege, the good old
+archbishop, was obliged to witness the savagery of the Danes when they
+burst through the gates and began a horrible slaughter, which included
+the monks of Christ Church, and it is said that about 7,000 Saxons
+perished. Not content with all this butchery, they burnt the
+cathedral. Archbishop Alphege was carried off by the victorious Danes,
+who at Greenwich gave way to drunken excesses, and in brutal fashion
+killed their prisoner. The body was brought from London, where it had
+been buried, back to Canterbury ten years later by Canute, the first
+Danish King of England, who made what atonement he could by lending
+his freshly painted state barge for the ceremonious translation of the
+martyr's remains. Arrived at Canterbury, the King proceeded to further
+demonstrate his submission to the Church his people had devastated by
+hanging up his crown in the cathedral which Alphege's successor,
+Archbishop Living, had reroofed. Canute, having made a journey to Rome
+in 1031, among other pious resolutions, declared that he would amend
+his life and conversation, and it was with his help that the Saxon
+cathedral was properly repaired and decorated.
+
+During the year following the Norman Conquest a fire began in
+Canterbury, which, besides destroying many houses, reduced the
+unfortunate cathedral to a roofless ruin once more. Three years
+later, in 1070, when Lanfranc was made the first Norman archbishop, he
+decided that the Saxon walls were worthless, and he swept away every
+trace of the building, which may have been partially Roman, before
+proceeding to erect a larger and grander pile in the Norman style
+familiar to him. One feature of the original church has, nevertheless,
+left its mark on the Norman cathedral. This was a crypt described by
+Eadmer, the monkish historian, who, as a boy, saw the Saxon church
+being demolished. It was only a small affair, but it must have been
+the most remarkable feature of the comparatively small oblong
+building, for it was not, properly speaking, a crypt at all, but an
+undercroft beneath the eastern altars. "To reach these altars," says
+Eadmer, "a certain crypt, which the Romans call a confessionary, had
+to be ascended by means of several steps from the choir of the
+singers. Thus the Norman archbishop, in planning a larger cathedral,
+constructed a crypt under the choir of his new building, and the steps
+one ascends to-day are there as the direct outcome of the structural
+methods of rude Saxon times."
+
+Lanfranc completed his new cathedral in 1077, and in his lifetime he
+also founded the great Benedictine priory of Christ Church, whose
+considerable remains add so much medievalism to the surroundings of
+the vast cathedral. Anselm succeeded Lanfranc after an interval of a
+few years, during which Rufus found it exceedingly desirable to keep
+the see vacant while the revenues were diverted into the royal
+coffers, and scarcely twenty years after his predecessor's church was
+finished, Prior Ernulph pulled down the east end and constructed in
+its place the magnificent Norman choir, with its transepts and chapels
+standing with various alterations to-day. This great work was finished
+by Prior Conrad, who succeeded Ernulph, and the noble work, which
+became known as Conrad's Choir, was consecrated in 1130 by Archbishop
+de Corbeuil. To make this bald statement and omit to mention the
+ceremony attending it would be misleading; for not only were Henry I.
+and David of Scotland present, but Canterbury saw such a gathering of
+dignitaries of Church and State with their splendid retinues that the
+historian found nothing to compare with it but Solomon's dedication of
+the Temple!
+
+This splendid church, representing the finest achievement of Norman
+master-builders and workmen, rising high above the domestic quarters
+of the monastery and standing forth conspicuously from every part of
+the little walled city, then consisting, to a considerable extent, of
+low wooden houses, had now reached the stage in its development when
+it was to be the scene of the murder which was to make Canterbury the
+most famous resort of pilgrims in Europe. This occurred forty years
+later; but no change in the great Norman church had taken place in
+that period.
+
+So thrilling is the whole story of Becket's murder that there is every
+temptation to tell again the tale of Henry II.'s hasty exclamation,
+and the headlong journey from Normandy to Canterbury made by those
+four knights whose foul deed history has not ceased to condemn; but
+for a full account the reader is advised to turn to Dean Stanley's
+"Historical Memorials of Canterbury." It was in the same year and the
+same month as his death that Becket had returned from exile to
+Canterbury after an absence of six years, and at the close of a decade
+of continual struggle with the King. The Archbishop, having landed at
+Sandwich on his arrival from France, had been received with the
+greatest enthusiasm, and the people of Canterbury showed their
+delight in every possible manner. There were imposing banquets, and
+hangings of silk were put up in the cathedral for the great occasion;
+but at the end of this December, on the gloomy afternoon of the 29th,
+the four murderers arrived in the city. The day was a Tuesday, the day
+on which all the great events of Becket's life had taken place; for
+not only had he been born on a Tuesday, but on that day he had been
+exiled, on that day he had been warned of his impending martyrdom, and
+on that day he had returned from exile.
+
+[Illustration: THE "ANGEL" OR "BELL HARRY" TOWER AND THE BAPTISTERY.
+The massive Norman work is seen here in strong contrast with the
+lightness and delicacy of the Perpendicular tower.]
+
+While leaving the long story to be told with the amazingly ample
+detail Dean Stanley was able to employ, one is tempted to quote his
+account of the first interview between Becket and the four knights,
+for too often the memory recalls nearly every fact of the murder
+except the indictment, if it may be so called. The four knights had
+discarded their weapons and concealed their armour under the cloak and
+gown of ordinary life on entering the cathedral precincts, so that on
+their first appearance in the Archbishop's private room their aspect
+was sinister without being immediately threatening. Becket had just
+finished dinner, and was seated on his couch talking to his friends
+when the four knights were announced, and he pointedly continued, his
+conversation with the monk who sat by him and on whose shoulder he was
+leaning.
+
+ They on their part entered without a word, beyond a greeting
+ exchanged in a whisper to the attendants who stood near the
+ door, and then marched straight to where the Archbishop sate,
+ and placed themselves on the floor at his feet, among the
+ clergy who were reclining around. Radulf the archer sate
+ behind them, on the boards. Becket now turned round for the
+ first time, and gazed steadfastly on each in silence, which he
+ at last broke by saluting Tracy by name. The conspirators
+ continued to look mutely at each other, till Fitzurse, who
+ throughout took the lead, replied with a scornful expression,
+ "God help you!" Becket's face grew crimson, and he glanced
+ round at their countenances, which seemed to gather fire from
+ Fitzurse's speech. Fitzurse again broke forth: "We have a
+ message from the King over the water--tell us whether you will
+ hear it in private, or in the hearing of all." "As you wish,"
+ said the Archbishop. "Nay, as _you_ wish," said Fitzurse.
+ "Nay, as _you_ wish," said Becket. The monks, at the
+ Archbishop's intimation, withdrew into an adjoining room; but
+ the doorkeeper ran up and kept the door ajar, that they might
+ see from the outside what was going on.
+
+
+Before the knights began the recital of their complaints, however,
+Becket appears to have become alarmed at the demeanour of the four
+men, who afterwards admitted that they thought of killing him then and
+there with the only weapon that was handy--a cross-staff that lay at
+his feet.
+
+ The monks hurried back, and Fitzurse, apparently calmed by
+ their presence, resumed his statement of the complaints of the
+ King. The complaints--which are given by the various
+ chroniclers in very different words--were three in number.
+ "The King over the water commands you to perform your duty to
+ the King on this side of the water, instead of taking away his
+ crown." "Rather than take away his crown," replied Becket, "I
+ would give him three or four crowns." "You have excited
+ disturbances in the kingdom, and the King requires you to
+ answer for them at his court." "Never," said the Archbishop,
+ "shall the sea again come between me and my Church, unless I
+ am dragged thence by the feet." "You have excommunicated the
+ bishops, and you must absolve them." "It was not I," replied
+ Becket, "but the Pope, and you must go to him for absolution."
+
+[Illustration: THE CHAPEL OF "OUR LADY" IN THE UNDERCROFT OF THE
+ CATHEDRAL.
+Being entirely above the ground this is not a crypt as it is so often
+miscalled. The morning light in winter fills the spaces between the
+massive Norman piers.]
+
+After some more stormy words the knights became irritated by Becket's
+contradictions, and swore "by God's wounds" that they had endured
+enough, but Becket, putting aside John of Salisbury's suggestion that
+he should speak privately to the angry knights, began to complain of
+the grievances and insults he had himself received during the preceding
+week: "They have attacked my servants," he said; "they have cut off my
+sumpter-mule's tail; they have carried off the casks of wine that were
+the King's own gift." To this Hugh de Moreville, who was the least
+aggressive of the four, replied: "Why did you not complain to the King
+of these outrages? Why did you take upon yourself to punish them by
+your own authority?" But Becket, turning sharply towards him, said:
+"Hugh! how proudly you lift up your head! When the rights of the
+Church are violated, I shall wait for no man's permission to avenge
+them. I will give to the King the things that are the King's, but to
+God the things that are God's. It is my business, and I alone will see
+to it." Taking up such an attitude in front of four men who had come
+hot-foot to Canterbury with the express determination to seek an
+excuse for killing him, Becket was sealing his own fate.
+
+ For the first time in the interview the Archbishop had assumed
+ an attitude of defiance; the fury of the knights broke at once
+ through the bonds which had partially restrained it, and
+ displayed itself openly in those impassioned gestures which
+ are now confined to the half-civilized nations of the South
+ and East, but which seem to have been natural to all classes
+ of medieval Europe. Their eyes flashed fire, they sprang upon
+ their feet, and, rushing close up to him, gnashed their teeth,
+ twisting their long gloves, and wildly threw their arms above
+ their heads. Fitzurse exclaimed: "You threaten us--you
+ threaten us! are you going to excommunicate us all?"
+
+Becket sprang up from his couch at this insulting demonstration, and
+in the state of great excitement into which he could fall when roused,
+he flung down his defiant challenge that all the swords in England
+could not shake his obedience to the Pope. The four knights, goaded to
+fury by other passionate words, left him, shouting, "To arms! to
+arms!" They made their way with an excited throng to the great
+gateway, where they armed, while the doors were closed to shut off the
+monastery from communication with the town. The Archbishop seems to
+have been fully alive to his danger, and yet he persistently refused
+to take the smallest measure for his safety, opening with his own
+hands the door from the cloisters into the north transept which some
+of the monks had closed and barred immediately after they had dragged
+the Archbishop into the nearly dark building.
+
+Vespers had just begun when the murderers entered, but the singing of
+that service was never completed. The fear of sacrilege induced the
+knights to try to drag the defenceless Archbishop out of the
+Cathedral, but he struggled with such vigour, flinging one of the men
+down on the stone floor, that they gave up the attempt and killed him
+with three or four sword strokes, the last of which, as he lay prone,
+was delivered by Richard le Bret, or the Breton, and so tremendous was
+the force with which it was delivered that the crown of the head was
+severed from the skull and the sword broke in two on the pavement.
+
+Canterbury being much divided in its attachment to Becket, the
+murderers found escape easy, and the general regrets most expressed
+seem to have been at the sacrilege rather than at the murder.
+
+It is almost incredible how rapidly Becket became St. Thomas of
+Canterbury. Within a few hours of the tragic scene, when, night having
+fallen and the great church being closed and deserted, Osbert, the
+Archbishop's chamberlain, entering with a light in his hand, found his
+master's body lying on its face, with the frightful wound exposed, the
+monks had kissed the hands and feet of the corpse and called him by
+the name of Saint Thomas. What appears to have raised the fraternity
+to this enthusiastic anticipation of the canonization, officially
+announced at Westminster in 1173, was the discovery that Becket had on
+beneath his outer robes, and the many other garments he wore, the
+black cowled cloak of the Benedictines, and next to his skin a
+hair-cloth shirt of unusual roughness. When the body was being
+prepared for the tomb this shirt was found to be easily removable for
+the daily scourging Becket had been in the habit of enduring, the
+marks of the stripes administered on the previous day being plainly
+visible. Dean Stanley adds another fact not easy to be believed by
+those who have never become intimate with the practices of medieval
+monasticism:
+
+ Such austerity had hitherto been unknown to English saints,
+ and the marvel was increased by the sight--to our notions so
+ revolting--of the innumerable vermin with which the hair-cloth
+ abounded--boiling over with them, as one account describes it,
+ like water in a simmering cauldron. At the dreadful sight all
+ the enthusiasm of the previous night revived with double
+ ardour. They looked at one another in silent wonder, then
+ exclaimed, "See, see what a true monk he was, and we knew it
+ not!" and burst into alternate fits of weeping and laughter,
+ between the sorrow at having lost such a head and the joy of
+ having found such a saint.
+
+[Illustration; THE CHAPEL OF ST. MICHAEL OR THE WARRIORS' CHAPEL.
+It is one of the most interesting Chapels in the Cathedral, containing
+the tomb of Stephen Langton and in the centre of the drawing that of
+Lady Margaret Holland and her two husbands.]
+
+Almost immediately the superstitious belief in the efficacy of a
+martyr's blood made everyone who was permitted to approach Becket's
+body anxious to obtain a scrap of a blood-stained garment to soak in
+water with which to anoint the eyes! In a short time many parts of the
+clothes had been given away to the poor folk of Canterbury; but as
+soon as the miracle-working properties came to be properly understood
+these precious shreds of the Archbishop's voluminous garments ran up
+in value until the possession of such a fragment meant wealth to the
+owner. Any relic of the body itself had still greater value, its
+efficacy in curing the multifarious ailments of the pilgrims who began
+to flock to Canterbury being immeasurable. And when the neighbouring
+monastery of St. Augustine burned with desire to possess a relic of
+St. Thomas they offered Roger, the keeper of the "Altars of the
+Martyrdom," the position of Abbot of their own abbey if he would
+contrive to bring with him a portion of Becket's skull. Roger had been
+specially chosen to guard this relic, but he succumbed to the
+temptation offered by the rival establishment outside the city walls,
+and having purloined the coveted fragment of the martyr, was duly
+installed in the highest office of St. Augustine's. Whether the whole
+affair was public property at the time does not fully appear, but
+those who recorded events at St. Augustine's did not hesitate to
+glory in the success of their scheme!
+
+So great was the popular execration of the murder that the autocratic
+Archbishop who had not inspired universal admiration in his lifetime
+was soon to become the most frequently invoked of all the calendar of
+saints, and the King himself, finding that his submission to the Papal
+legate at Avranches, two years after the crime, was not sufficient to
+avert the wrath of Heaven, which seemed to be visiting him in the form
+of rebellions and disasters in every part of his dominions, came to
+Canterbury in 1174 and went through a penance of extreme severity.
+Landing at Southampton, he came by the Pilgrims' Way to Harbledown,
+and so entered the ancient city. At the church of St. Dunstan, outside
+the walls, he took off his ordinary dress and walked barefoot through
+the streets to the monastery of Christ Church. It was a wet day, but
+being in the month of July the wearing of a shirt only with a cloak to
+keep off the rain could not have been the cause of very great physical
+discomfort apart from the cutting of his feet by stones on the road.
+At the Cathedral they took Henry to the tomb of the man whose death he
+had caused, and there he knelt and shed bitter tears, groaning and
+lamenting. After again regretting his rash words in an address read by
+Gilbert Foliot, Bishop of London, and promising to restore the rights
+and property of the Church, the King, kneeling at the tomb, wearing a
+hair-shirt with a woollen one above it, placed his head and shoulders
+in one of the openings in the tomb and there received five strokes
+with a monastic rod from each of the bishops and abbots present, and
+afterwards the eighty monks each administered three strokes. Henry was
+now quite absolved, but he remained for the whole night with his bare
+feet still muddy and in the same penitential garb.
+
+[Illustration: THE SCENE OF THE MARTYRDOM IN THE NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT
+ OF THE CATHEDRAL.
+Since the tragic death of Becket in 1170 practically everything in this
+portion of the Cathedral has been re-constructed.]
+
+Arriving in London, the King took to his bed, suffering from a
+dangerous fever, but a few days later, hearing from Richmond in
+Yorkshire that the Scots had been defeated and driven north, he
+recovered rapidly, believing implicitly, after the manner of his age,
+that this success was attributable to the penance he had undergone on
+the day before the battle.
+
+And so, through the savage murder of an archbishop and the severe
+penance of a king the archiepiscopal capital of England began to
+resound all over Europe, and the annual procession of pilgrims
+commenced to traverse the hills along the old road from Winchester to
+the little Norman city. Not by that way only did the vast crowds reach
+Canterbury, for there was scarcely a road that at some period of the
+year did not send its contribution to the throng which jostled through
+the gates into the narrow streets leading to the monastery gateway.
+Year after year wealth poured into the Cathedral coffers, and pilgrims
+went away lighter in spirits and in purse, but each carrying with them
+the little leaden bottle in which the infinitely diluted blood of the
+martyr mixed with water was distributed.
+
+Scarcely two months after Henry's penance the splendid choir of the
+Cathedral caught fire, and the townsfolk, in a state between grief and
+rage, found themselves unable to stay the progress of the flames until
+nearly everything that could burn had vanished. The nave suffered less
+than Conrad's splendid choir, and in that less ruined portion of the
+building a temporary altar was erected. But for this fire it might
+have been possible for the modern pilgrim to see the building as it
+appeared during the stirring events just recounted; for,
+notwithstanding the wealth of the monastery of Christ Church, it would
+have probably been thought desirable to retain the fabric as much as
+possible as it appeared in Becket's time. The fire came, however, and
+the choir was to a great extent rebuilt, but fortunately the chapels
+were only slightly affected.
+
+After careful inquiry the monastery decided to employ William of Sens
+as architect for the reconstruction, and the excellent work of this
+clever Norman craftsman lives to-day in the eastern portion of the
+cathedral church. He set to work soon after the fire; but, after four
+years of labour, was so much injured by a fall from the scaffolding
+that he was obliged to abandon his unfinished work and return to his
+native Normandy. Upon an Englishman named William devolved the task of
+completing the work.
+
+Either following the Frenchman's plans or adapting them to his own
+ideas, he finished the eastern parts of the church as they stand
+to-day in the year 1184. To one or both of these architects is due the
+unusual device of narrowing the choir to avoid altering the site of
+the Trinity Chapel of Becket's time. When the reconstruction of
+Conrad's Norman choir began, the Gothic style was just beginning to
+appear--an incipient tendency towards a pointed arch here and there
+which grew into what is called the Transitional Period; and to this
+style--in between the Romanesque semicircular arch, with its
+accompanying massiveness, and the first style of Gothic known as Early
+English, distinguished by the pointed arch, detached pillars
+decorating the triforium and clerestory, and elaborate mouldings and
+capitals--the choir belongs.
+
+When the whole of the east end of the cathedral was finished, nearly
+two centuries elapsed before any further change took place beyond the
+beginning of the chapter-house. At the commencement of that period,
+however, one of Canterbury's most magnificent scenes of ecclesiastical
+pomp occurred in connection with the remains of Becket. The summer of
+1220 saw the completion of the new shrine, and on July 7, the
+translation of the saint's remains was accomplished amid scenes of the
+most astonishing splendour, described by those who were present as
+being without a parallel in the history of England, the crowds
+including people from many foreign countries. Money was spent so
+lavishly on the entertainment of the innumerable persons of
+distinction who were present or took part in the great ceremony that
+for several years the finances of the see were unpleasantly
+reminiscent of the vast expenditure. Henry III. was present, but he
+was not old enough to be a bearer of the great iron-bound chest
+containing the poor remnants of Becket's human guise. In the presence
+of nearly every ecclesiastical dignitary in the land the remains were
+placed in the newly finished shrine all aglow with jewels set in gold
+and silver.
+
+Throughout the centuries succeeding this crowning glory of Canterbury,
+the little walled city saw many great functions apart from the yearly
+stream of pilgrims of every grade of society, and the huge doles of
+food and drink given away by the two great monasteries and the lesser
+houses of the city must have brought together an unwholesome concourse
+of the needy.
+
+Every fifty years after the translation of Becket's remains to the
+great shrine there was a special festival on July 7, when the people
+of the archiepiscopal city would find their resources strained to the
+very uttermost in feeding and housing the great assemblage. The
+martyrdom took place on December 29, but owing to the time of the
+year this festival did not draw so many as the summer one. All through
+the year the pilgrims came and went, and instead of falling off in
+numbers as the martyrdom receded, the popularity of the saint did not
+reach its zenith until the fifteenth century. Royal visits were of
+frequent occurrence, and of all the cities of England, after London,
+Canterbury would appear to have entertained more distinguished
+personages than any other.
+
+Between 1378 and 1411 Prior Chillenden pulled down Lanfranc's Norman
+nave and transept, which had survived the fire, and rebuilt them in
+the Perpendicular style, then prevailing. When this work was finished
+and the south-western tower had been completed, in 1481, there was not
+much left of the Norman priory church built by Lanfranc. The
+north-western or Arundel Tower, the last survival of Lanfranc's
+church, was rebuilt in 1840 and made to match its Perpendicular
+neighbour and the central tower--the external masterpiece of the
+cathedral--commenced by Prior Molashe in 1433, and completed by Prior
+Selling in the closing years of the century. The piers supporting this
+tower are Norman with a later casing, and the foundations of the nave
+walls belong to the same period.
+
+Having reached its greatest glories, Canterbury began to decline, and
+the dissolution of the two great monasteries and the demolishing of
+Becket's shrine must have been to the city, on a much larger scale,
+what the sweeping away of all the Shakespearean landmarks and relics
+from Stratford-on-Avon of to-day would imply. Nevertheless the city
+could afford to present Queen Elizabeth with £30 in a scented purse
+when she came thither in 1564, and the fact that Canterbury remained
+the chief centre of the authority and state of the English Church
+prevented the city from decaying. And even if this dignity had not
+remained the position of the town in relation to the comings and
+goings between England and France would have saved it from any sudden
+fall from its opulence and greatness before the dissolution.
+
+To touch even lightly on the subsequent history of Canterbury is not
+possible here, but its remarkably interesting story has been woven
+into a connected narrative by Dr. Cox, whose admirable book should be
+procured by all who may, by reading this little sketch, feel some of
+the glamour which the old city has for the writer.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE CATHEDRAL
+
+
+From the swelling green hills that look over Canterbury the distant
+glimpses of the Cathedral towers gleaming in that opalescent light
+that is the joy of a summer's morning in Kent, are so hauntingly
+beautiful that it is hard to believe that no disillusionment need be
+anticipated when the ancient city is entered and the great church seen
+at close quarters in the midst of a little city whose busy streets are
+agog with twentieth-century interests; and yet apprehension is
+entirely needless. From St. Dunstan's Church, where Henry II. stripped
+himself to a shirt and cloak on entering as a penitent, the road is
+lined with houses whose quietly picturesque frontages improve as the
+city proper is neared, and at the end of a most pleasing perspective
+stands the West Gate, a great stone gateway with round towers. Passing
+through the archway, one is at once in the narrow, jostling
+familiarity of the medieval St. Peter's Street. This crosses one at
+the arms of the Stour, and continues as High Street, becoming
+increasingly rich in overhanging storeys and curious sixteenth and
+seventeenth century fronts. One's eye glances rapidly from side to
+side, until, on the left, an exceedingly narrow turning gives a
+peep--such a peep as no other city can give unless it be Rouen--of the
+Cathedral's western towers rising above a sumptuously enriched stone
+gateway framed by tall, timbered houses, which nod towards one another
+in the neighbourly fashion of old cronies. It might be that the modern
+pilgrim, whose course is thus arrested by the vision he sees in this
+cleft called Mercery Lane, might have had some intention of going
+straight through the city to St. Martin's Church outside the walls to
+the east; but, if so, he is a strong man who resists the appeal of
+that narrow way belonging altogether to the world of romance. He
+stands for a moment transfixed, and then plunges into the opening,
+forgetful of his original purpose in the vivid reality before him. He
+walks down the lane trodden century after century by countless
+pilgrims and enters the Cathedral precincts through the weather-worn
+gateway, Prior Goldstone II. built between 1507 and 1517.
+
+From the archway the first near vision of the vast pile is unfolded,
+nearly the whole of the south side being visible. Immediately opposite
+are the two western towers, the nearer one finished in 1451 and the
+further rebuilt seventy years ago. The heavily buttressed nave, in the
+same Perpendicular style, stretches away to the transept, where the
+eye mounts up higher and higher until it rests on the clustered
+pinnacles of the _campanilis Angeli_--the Angel Tower, as Prior
+Molashe by some happy inspiration chose to call the imposing feature
+he added to his priory church. Beyond the south-west transept appears
+the plain Norman work of the larger and more massive transept to the
+east, with its beautiful staircase tower built into the inner angle, a
+part of Conrad's "glorious" choir. The remaining eastern parts of the
+Cathedral are not visible from this point, but as one walks
+eastwards--the other way is closed by the Archbishop's Palace--St.
+Anselm's Tower and Trinity Chapel with its corona, or semicircular
+extension, successively appear. Armed even with such brief information
+as that given in the preceding chapter, one gazes on these weathered
+cliffs of wrought stone with quickened breath, reading into the
+Transitional Norman work the strange story of the historic murder
+which brought so much wealth to this spot that the Cathedral in its
+present form is due to little else. To wipe out Becket's name
+completely Henry VIII. would have needed to demolish the whole church.
+
+[Illustration: THE DOORWAY INTO THE TRANSEPT OF MARTYRDOM FROM THE
+ CLOISTERS.
+It was through this doorway that Becket was followed by his murderers
+on that fatal afternoon in 1170 when the winter twilight was
+deepening.]
+
+The smooth turf along the south side of the Cathedral was used by the
+monks as a lay cemetery, and the fairly extensive space to the
+south-east shaded by old elms was their own burial-ground. All the
+monastic buildings were, contrary to the usual custom, on the north,
+for having only a narrow space between the south side of their church
+and the wall which Lanfranc built to secure the whole monastery, they
+naturally built on their extensive piece of ground running right up to
+the city wall to the north. Rounding the east end of the Cathedral,
+therefore, one finds under its ample shadow the remains of many of the
+domestic offices of the great priory. The great hall, with its kitchen
+and offices, is now part of the house of one of the prebendaries, and
+is not accessible to the public, but to the west are the interesting
+ruins of the infirmary. This was a long building with aisles, having
+a chapel opening out of it to the east, so that the sick brethren
+while lying in their beds could listen to the services. The south
+arcade of this chapel, consisting of four Norman arches with an
+ivy-grown clerestory, is still standing, and there are also some
+arches of the south side of the hall still showing the orange-pink
+colour produced on the stone by the disastrous fire in 1174, when
+Conrad's choir was reduced to a ruin. Adjoining the western end of the
+infirmary hall, and now a part of the Cathedral, is the beautiful
+Transitional-Norman treasury built on to St. Andrew's Chapel. Going to
+the right through a passage called the Dark Entry, one has the site of
+the prior's lodging on the right and on the left the infirmary
+cloister, and north of it the smaller dormitories of the monks. This
+passage-way leads through the vaulted Prior's Gate to the Green Court,
+a wide grassy space shaded by great limes and other trees. Framed
+between the spreading branches appears one of the most perfect
+groupings of the Angel Steeple with the piled-up roofs of the library,
+chapter house, and north-west transept as steps leading up to the vast
+tower, whose presence has an uplifting effect on the mind, scarcely
+equalled by the solemn immensity of the nave when one first
+enters--but the interior must wait for a little, while the remaining
+portions of the precincts are seen.
+
+Adjoining the Prior's Gate to the east is the building now used as the
+Deanery. It was built by Prior Goldstone in late Perpendicular times
+as a guest-house for the reception of strangers, but has been much
+altered since that time. At the north-west corner of the court is a
+very fine Norman gateway, now surrounded by the modern buildings of
+the King's School, and a little to the right is a Norman staircase,
+which by the goodness of Providence was allowed to remain when other
+destruction was in progress. This beautiful and unique example of a
+staircase of this early period is the most remarkable feature of the
+monastic remains. Beyond the Green Court Gate stood the almonry and a
+granary, and south of these buildings was the Archbishop's Palace, so
+ruined in Puritan times that the remains of a gateway in Palace Street
+is practically all that can now be seen. The present palace is quite
+modern. Coming back to the Cathedral, the remarkably picturesque
+little circular Lavatory Tower standing on late Norman open arches is
+noticeable in its shadowy seclusion among the lofty walls of the choir
+chapels. This is generally known as the Baptistery, but the name only
+began to be used when the font Bishop Warner presented to the
+Cathedral was placed there. In the little garden in front of the
+Lavatory Tower are two Roman columns brought from Reculver more than a
+century ago when the church there became a ruin. West of this tower is
+the library, standing on part of the site of the great dormitory, and
+opening on to the cloisters is the chapter house, commenced in 1304 by
+Prior Estria and finished in 1378 by Prior Chillenden. The windows at
+the east and west ends are the largest in the Cathedral.
+
+The great cloister, like the chapter house, largely owes its present
+appearance to Prior Chillenden, and is of exceedingly beautiful
+Perpendicular work with a splendid roof of lierne vaulting. Part of
+the south walk, with the doorway into the north transept--the
+successor to the Norman one through which Becket passed to his
+death--is shown in Mr. Biscombe Gardner's drawing facing page 43. If
+one enters the Cathedral from this point, especially if it should be
+in the twilight of a gloomy day, the atmosphere of the murder seems to
+be all about one, notwithstanding the rebuilding at a later period of
+the actual scene, but the historic entrance is by the south porch
+facing the great gate of the priory, and as it is still the usual
+place of entry this short account of the interior will begin at that
+point.
+
+[Illustration: THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE IN CANTERBURY.
+This picturesque house of the Franciscans, who came to the town in
+1220, stands on a branch of the Stour near Stour Street.]
+
+The porch belongs to the great period of rebuilding under Prior
+Chillenden, and, with its double row of canopied niches containing
+statues, is a beautiful feature, even with the central space which
+contained a representation of the martyrdom of Becket still vacant
+since the days of Henry VIII. There is in the first view of a vast
+Cathedral nave something almost overpowering in its sense of ordered
+beauty. It may be that average lives are so planless, so haphazard and
+without order that an achievement of such magnitude representing years
+of labour and concentrated thought in steadily following out a
+preconceived plan cannot fail to be a tremendous contrast to the
+smallness and pettiness of the majority--a contrast so great that it
+is mentally and spiritually a glimpse of the world of new
+possibilities attainable when once the feverish clinging to the ideals
+of the totem post is abandoned. This vast nave, reminiscent in many
+ways of Winchester, but far more satisfying, is generally bathed in a
+cool, greenish light, and is, in reality, a magnificent vestibule to
+the crowded interest beyond the transept. The effect of emptiness
+existing to-day is vastly different to what the pilgrims used to gaze
+upon while waiting their turn to be sprinkled with holy water, for
+before the Reformation and the complete sweeping away of the
+enrichments of Roman Catholic times the roof and walls were brilliant
+with paintings, the windows glowed with the warm colour of medieval
+glass, sumptuous hangings were suspended in many places and the altars
+twinkling with lighted candles added much gilding and colour to the
+aisles. All this barbarous crowding of colour and ornament, all this
+splendour of a ritual that appealed to an age capable of stilling the
+voice of conscience with an absolution obtainable for a few pence has
+passed away, but the vast building remains to tell of the reality of
+endeavour of one side of monastic life.
+
+[Illustration: THE PICTURESQUE GABLED HOUSES OF THE CANTERBURY
+ WEAVERS.
+The houses are reflected in the Stour just by King's Bridge, which
+joins the High Street to St. Peter's Street.]
+
+Across the great arch opening into the base of the tower is the
+supporting arch inserted by Prior Goldstone II., who, as already
+stated, built the Angel Steeple above the roof-line where it had been
+left by Chillenden. The arch has been called a disfigurement, and as
+it was not originally intended such an opinion may be justifiable, and
+yet the beauty of the reticulated stonework and the consummate skill
+which conceived the bold simplicity of design is so satisfying that it
+is scarcely possible to wish that it were absent. Beneath this flying
+arch appears the splendid western screen, approached by the flight of
+steps necessitated by the crypt or undercroft, for, being on perfectly
+level ground, there would have been no need for this unique feature.
+Among the monuments in the nave aisles those on the south include the
+memorial to Dean Farrar, who is buried in the great cloister, and
+William Broughton, Bishop of Sydney and Adelaide, who was a scholar at
+the King's School. In the north aisle the Tudor monument to Sir T.
+Hales showing his burial at sea is curious and picturesque, and other
+memorials are to Charles I.'s organist, Orlando Gibbons, and to the
+Archbishops Boyes and Sumner.
+
+The north-west transept, on the left as the steps to the choir are
+ascended, is the scene of Becket's martyrdom, and the vergers show the
+traditional spot where he fell. From the opposite transept, steps lead
+down to the undercroft, and also up to the south choir aisle--the way
+the pilgrims approached the shrine of St. Thomas. Also opening from
+the south-west transept is St. Michael's or the Warrior's Chapel, as
+it is now popularly called. In the illustration facing p. 30, the tomb
+of Lady Margaret Holland and her two husbands, John Beaufort, Earl of
+Somerset, and Thomas, Duke of Clarence, is shown occupying the centre
+of the chapel, but it just misses a more interesting, if much less
+beautiful, tomb, that of Stephen Langton, the courageous Archbishop
+who took such a leading part in forcing John to sign Magna Charta. The
+plain sarcophagus is partly within and partly outside the chapel, for
+when it was rebuilt in the fourteenth century it was extended so much
+to the east that it became necessary either to move Langton's tomb or
+else to make an arch in the wall, and the latter course was taken,
+with the curious result still to be seen. An astonishing contrast to
+the clear-sighted action of this Norman Archbishop was the attitude of
+Archbishop Howley (1828-1848) whose bitter hostility to the Reform
+Bill in 1831 so raised the anger of the people of Canterbury that they
+greeted his next arrival in the city with showers of stones and rotten
+eggs. In the midst of a howling mob the archiepiscopal carriage
+slowly struggled to the Deanery, bearing in it the amiable Churchman
+who was convinced that the Reform Bill was "mischievous in its
+tendency, and extremely dangerous to the fabric of the constitution."
+Such words are deeply interesting at the present day, when many people
+think they see, in progress on the same lines, dangers of an equally
+unfounded order.
+
+Passing along the south aisle of the choir, one gradually sees the
+whole of the elaborately devised eastern parts of the Cathedral as
+they were reconstructed by William of Sens and his English successor.
+The arcades of alternately circular and octagonal pillars have richly
+carved foliated capitals, and there is a lightness in form and a
+profusion of carving that tells of the coming of the Gothic
+style--indeed, so far in advance of the plain Norman work of Conrad is
+the present choir that the change to pure Early English is slight in
+comparison. In its great length this choir is unique, and in the
+lowness of its vaulted roof is also unusual, but this is accounted for
+by the undercroft beneath. From the centre of the choir the remarkable
+inward bend of the walls, necessitated through the determination not
+to alter the plan of the Trinity Chapel so hallowed by the memory of
+the Blessed St. Thomas, is very noticeable: to some extent it helps to
+give one an impression of the great length of the whole choir, with
+the chapel beyond. The eastern transepts and chapels still have their
+apsidal chapels almost as they were built by Conrad.
+
+Ascending some more steps, the modern pilgrim reaches Trinity Chapel,
+where his eyes, instead of falling upon a shrine encrusted with jewels
+and precious metals, merely look between the pillars upon an empty
+space. A vacant spot, however, can be eloquent enough, and to those
+who have read Chaucer's "Canterbury Tales" or the late Mr. Snowden
+Ward's "Canterbury Pilgrimages," if they have gone no farther in the
+study of this fascinating cult, the site of the shrine whose fame was
+European is able to give almost as deep a thrill as any experienced by
+the wayworn folk of the Middle Ages.
+
+By going closer and examining the pavement, a shallow groove appears
+marking the exact position of the base of the shrine. This was worn by
+the endless stream of pilgrims as they knelt in ecstasy before the
+object their eyes had longed to feast upon. To the west is a fine
+thirteenth-century mosaic pavement similar to that in the Confessor's
+Chapel at Westminster Abbey, to which it is very fitting to compare
+this chapel, for if it is not quite a "Chapel of the Kings" it has a
+King--Henry IV.--and a king's eldest son--the Black Prince--on either
+side, and after Westminster Abbey there was scarcely a more sacred
+spot in the kingdom than this.
+
+It was fitting that Henry IV. should be buried here, for he had taken
+a considerable amount of interest in the rebuilding of the nave, and
+had been liberal in his financial aid. The effigies of Henry and his
+second wife, Joan of Navarre, are believed to be faithful
+representations. Of the tomb of Edward the Black Prince, if space
+permitted, much could be said, for it is a magnificent piece of work
+apart from the historical interest that attaches to the soldier
+Prince, whose two great victories at Crécy and Poitiers have thrilled
+every English schoolboy during all the subsequent centuries. The
+strong iron railing has prevented any damage to the bronze or latten
+effigy, and except for the tarnishing and general deterioration of
+gilding and paint, one looks on the monument as it was erected in the
+days of chivalry. All the details of this tomb had been arranged by
+the Black Prince himself, and it was he who chose the Norman-French
+inscription all can plainly read to-day. Above the tomb is suspended a
+flat canopy of wood with an embattled moulding, and on the underside a
+much decayed painting of the Trinity, if one may call it such when the
+Dove is not represented. On the beam from which the canopy is
+suspended are hung the shield, helmet, velvet coat, brass gauntlets,
+and empty sword sheath which are the survivals of two complete suits,
+one for peace, and one for war, which were carried at the funeral as
+the Prince had ordered in his will.
+
+The eastern extension of the chapel is called Becket's Crown, a name
+tradition associates with the preservation in this chapel of a portion
+of St. Thomas's skull. One window contains old glass, and in the
+centre of the floor is placed the chair of Purbeck marble in which the
+Archbishops are enthroned. As it is no longer considered as old as the
+days of Augustine the title St. Augustine's Chair must be regarded as
+a figure of speech.
+
+By the most marvellous good fortune the wonderful series of windows in
+Trinity Chapel, illustrating the many cures wrought at the Shrine of
+St. Thomas, have come down to the present time almost unharmed, and
+this magnificent range of thirteenth-century glass is finer than
+anything else of its period in England. This glass is all prior to
+1220, and without it there would have been no representation of the
+first shrine at all. The colour in these windows is all subservient to
+the careful drawing of the pictures in the medallions, but in the
+north choir aisle there are some windows almost of the same period
+where the colour is as splendid as in any of the early windows at
+Chartres. For any description of the tombs of the archbishops there
+is, unfortunately, no space here. In the splendid crypt, besides the
+interest of the various periods of Norman and Transitional work, there
+is the rich Perpendicular screenwork of the Chapel of Our Lady of the
+Undercroft, and the Huguenot Chapel in what was the Black Prince's
+Chantry. In Tudor times the whole of the undercroft was given up to
+the French Protestant refugees, who, besides worshipping there, set up
+their looms in this hallowed portion of the Cathedral where the martyr
+was laid until his translation in 1220 and where Henry II. had passed
+the night after his severe penance. This very short description of
+such a building must be regarded as a mere introduction to the study
+of a vast subject, for in the space available nothing more is remotely
+possible.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE CITY
+
+
+A walled city generally holds more easily that elusive quality of
+romance for which the intelligent mind so often hungers than a town
+that has long ago discarded its old tower-studded girdle. And among
+the half-dozen or more English towns still possessed of their old
+mural defences Canterbury holds a high place, because within its walls
+there are still, in spite of railways and motors and the horrors of
+twentieth-century advertising, a hundred byways and nooks where the
+atmosphere of Elizabethan and pre-Reformation England still lurks. The
+wall itself does not stand out with the splendid completeness of York
+or Conway, and on the western side it has vanished altogether, while
+of the seven or eight gates, one only--the West Gate--has been saved;
+yet, while walking in the narrow, picturesque streets, it is difficult
+to forget that Canterbury is a walled city. Until well into last
+century all the gates were standing; but one by one these ornaments
+were destroyed by the city until one only was left, and even that
+would have been wantonly sacrificed to facilitate the entry of some
+circus caravans when, in 1850, Wombwell's menagerie visited the city!
+This vandal showman actually dared to request the Corporation to
+demolish the gate on account of the difficulty of getting his
+procession through the low arch. This is hard to believe, but it is
+infinitely more difficult to understand the aboriginal minds of some
+of the members of the Corporation when the records unblushingly reveal
+that the showman's preposterous request not only found both a proposer
+and a seconder, but that the votes were equally divided on the matter,
+and it was only the Mayor's casting vote which has preserved for the
+city its noble entry. Such a searchlight as this, throwing into
+dazzling clearness the almost entire lack of appreciation for its
+historic buildings possessed by the controllers of the city must make
+one grateful for the happy chances which have permitted so much that
+is old and picturesque to survive.
+
+[Illustration: WESTGATE, CANTERBURY, FROM WITHIN.
+This is the only survivor of the gates which studded the mediæval
+walls of the city.]
+
+From the East Station there extends as far as the site of the old
+Riding Gate a well-preserved length of the wall with semicircular
+towers at intervals, and from opposite Lady Wootton's Green to St.
+Mary's Church, standing close to the site of North Gate, lengths of
+the wall, with a tower at intervals, form thrillingly medieval
+foregrounds for the Cathedral towers. In Pound Lane the wall continues
+in a furtive and rather desultory fashion until it ends at the West
+Gate. Opposite Lady Wootton's Green there still remain indications of
+a narrow postern, which is generally accepted as that through which
+Queen Bertha was wont to pass on her way to her devotions at St.
+Martin's Church. This, however, presupposes that the portion of the
+wall immediately surrounding this particular point is Roman or very
+Early Saxon, and also that the walls of the city occupied the same
+position, at least as far as this point, as those built at the end of
+the twelfth century.
+
+Mr. T. Godfrey Faussett's plan of Roman Canterbury appears to carry
+the wall just as far as this point, and then turns at an acute angle
+towards the south side of the Cathedral. Following the direction Queen
+Bertha would have taken brings one to the great gateway of St.
+Augustine's Abbey, the Benedictine monastery founded by Augustine on
+the land given for that purpose by Ethelbert. It was at first
+dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, and the original buildings were
+finished in 613. Having become the place of burial for the Kings of
+Kent and the Archbishops, the Abbey quite overshadowed the Priory of
+Christ Church, until in 758 Archbishop Cuthbert was secretly buried
+within the claustral confines of his own priory. At the Dissolution
+Henry converted the stately buildings into a palace, so that the royal
+visits, which had been of no infrequent occurrence in the days of
+monastic hospitality, continued; and while the lordly pile passed
+through the hands of various owners, Elizabeth, Charles I., and
+Charles II. paid visits on various occasions.
+
+A century ago, when appreciation of the architecture of the dead
+centuries when Englishmen built with superlative skill had ebbed to
+its lowest, the Abbey had sunk to inconceivably debased uses. The
+monastic kitchen had been converted into a public-house, and the great
+gateway--the finest structural relic of the Abbey--had become the
+entrance to a brewery, while cock-fighting took place in the state
+bedroom above. The pilgrims' guest hall, now the college dining-hall,
+had become a dancing-hall, and the ground, unoccupied by buildings,
+soil hallowed by the memories of so many saintly lives and associated
+with the momentous days when England was being released from the toils
+of pagan ignorance became known as "the Old Palace Tea-gardens." The
+popular mind had seemingly forgotten the original uses of the place
+they were desecrating with fireworks and variety shows.
+
+At last, in 1844, Mr. Beresford Hope rescued the half-destroyed
+remnants of the abbey-palace, and through his generosity the present
+missionary college was founded, and the buildings restored or
+reconstructed. A more happy idea could scarcely have been suggested
+than that of associating the abbey founded by the first missionary of
+Christianity to England with modern efforts to carry the light into
+the dark places of the earth. The much-restored gateway, built by
+Abbot Fyndon at the beginning of the fourteenth century, the
+guest-hall, and part of the memorial chapel, are the chief portions of
+the old structures incorporated into the buildings that surround three
+sides of the college quadrangle. Standing apart to the south is one of
+the huge walls of the nave of the abbey church, and to the east are
+the extensive excavations of the east end of the crypt and other
+fascinatingly early remains of the historic churches mentioned in an
+earlier chapter (p. 17).
+
+Leaving the Abbey grounds, and continuing to the east, one reaches in
+a few minutes the little church of St. Martin set on the knoll to
+which Queen Bertha directed her steps. It is, however, a
+disappointingly familiar type of Early English village church to the
+casual glance, and until the fabric and the remarkable font have been
+examined and discussed in the light of modern scientific archæology it
+is difficult to appreciate the hoary antiquity of at least parts of
+the structure. To understand the indications of the Saxon, or possibly
+Roman, work in the fabric, and to know the reasons for considering the
+font a relic of Saxon times, it is scarcely possible to find a better
+instructor than Canon Routledge, whose little book is all one can
+desire.
+
+When the Cathedral, the Abbey, and St. Martin's Church have been
+visited, it is too often thought that Canterbury has yielded up all
+her treasures, but this is an amazingly mistaken idea. There still
+remain to be seen the Castle, the walls, the old inns, the many
+interesting examples of early domestic architecture, the remains of
+the lesser religious houses and hospitals, a wonderful array of
+interesting churches, and the excellent museum. Of the Castle the
+great Norman keep, completed about 1125, still stands, having been
+allowed to remain because the walls were found to be too hard to
+easily destroy; but up to the time of writing the Corporation has not
+purchased the immense shell, and it therefore remains a storage place
+for the coal of the adjoining gasworks. The remains of the buildings
+of the Black, or Preaching, Friars, and those of the Grey Friars, who
+belonged to the rule of St. Francis, are on islands formed by the
+Stour, and are marked in nearly every plan of the town. The hospitals
+include that of St. John the Baptist in North Gate Street, Eastbridge
+Hospital in St. Peter Street, and the Poor Priests' Hospital near
+Stour Street. Outside the city, at Harbledown, is the interesting old
+Hospital of St. Nicholas, a home for lepers, who were separately
+housed.
+
+Of the churches it would be easy to write a great deal, but there is
+merely space to point out that the only one lacking in interest is All
+Saints' in High Street. At St. Dunstan's the head of Sir Thomas More
+is preserved in a vault, but it is never possible to see it, and one
+must be content with the picturesque brick gateway of the Roper house
+in St. Dunstan's Street.
+
+[Illustration: PLAN OF CANTERBURY CASTLE.
+
+KEY TO NUMBERS.
+ 1. Door to Cloisters.
+ 2. Door In Cloisters.
+ 3. Dean's (or Lady) Chapel.
+ 4. St. Michael's Chapel.
+ 5. Baptistery.
+ 6. Library (Howleian).
+ 7. Treasury.
+ 8. Chapel of King Henry IV.
+ 9. Arundel Tower (N.W.).
+ 10. Dunstan Tower (S.W.).
+ 11. Entrance to French Church.
+ 12. Archbishop Benson.
+ 13. Bishop Parry.
+ 14. Archbishop Sumner.
+ 15. Sir T. Hales.
+ 16. Colonel Stuart.
+ 17. Dr. Beaney.
+ 18. Dean Fotherbye.
+ 19. Archbishop Chicheley.
+ 20. Archbishop Bourchier.
+ 21. Archbishop Kemp.
+ 22. Archbishop Sudbury.
+ 23. St. Dunstan (site).
+ 24. Archbishop Tait.
+ 25. King Henry IV.
+ 26. Edward, the Black Prince.
+ 27. Becket's Shrine (site).
+ 28. Cardinal Pole.
+ 29. Unknown.
+ 30. Archbishop Mepham.
+ 31. Archbishop Winchelsey.
+ 32. Henry de Estria.
+ 33. Stephen Langton.
+ 34. Archbishop's ancient Chair.
+ 35. Memorial to Dean Farrar.
+ 36. Wm. Broughton, Bishop of Sydney and Adelaide.
+ 37. Archbishop Boyes.
+ 38. Tomb of Dean Farrar.
+ 39. Tomb of Archbishop Temple.
+ 40. Two columns from Reculver.]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+Alphege, Archbishop, 19, 20
+Angel Steeple, 42, 44, 48
+Anglo-Saxon invasions, 12
+Archbishop's Palace, 42, 45
+Augustine, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 54, 59
+
+Becket, Thomas à, 5, 6, 23-28, 43, 47, 49, 52, 54
+Bertha (Ethelbert's Queen), 13, 14, 16, 58, 61
+Black Prince, 53, 54, 55
+Boyes, Archbishop, 49
+Bret, Richard le, 29
+Broughton, Bishop, 49
+
+Cæsar, Julius, 10
+Canute, 20
+Castle, the, 62
+Cathedral, the, 40-55
+Charles I., 59
+Charles II., 59
+Chartres, windows at, 55
+Chillenden, Prior, 38, 46, 47, 48
+Clarence, Thomas, Duke of, 50
+Conrad's choir, 34
+Conrad, Prior, 22, 51, 52
+Corbeuil, Archbishop de, 22
+Cuthbert, Archbishop, 59
+
+Dane John, the, 10
+Danes, the, 19, 20
+David I. of Scotland, 22
+Dover, 11
+
+Eadbald, 18
+Eadmer, 21
+Elizabeth, Queen, 39, 59
+Ernulph, Prior, 22
+Estria, Prior, 46
+Ethelbert, 13, 14, 17, 18, 59
+
+Farrar, Dean, 49
+Fitzurse, Reginald, 25, 26
+Foliot, Gilbert, 33
+Fyndon, Abbot, 60
+
+Gates of Canterbury, the, 56-58
+Gibbons, Orlando, 49
+Goldstone II., Prior, 48
+
+Hales, Sir T., tomb of, 49
+Harbledown, 8, 32, 62
+Hengist and Horsa, 13
+Henry I., 22
+Henry II., 23, 34, 40, 55
+Henry III., 37
+Henry IV., tomb of, 53
+Henry VIII., 5, 43, 47, 59
+Holland, Lady Margaret, 50
+Hospitals, medieval, 62
+Howley, Archbishop, 50
+Huguenot Chapel, 55
+
+Joan of Navarre, 53
+John, King, 50
+
+King's school, the, 45, 49
+
+Lady Wootton's Green, 58
+Lanfranc, Archbishop, 21, 22, 38, 43
+Langton, Stephen, 50
+Living, Archbishop, 20
+Luidhard, Bishop, 13
+Lymne, 11
+
+Magna Charta, 50
+Mercery Lane, 41
+Molashe, Prior, 38, 42
+More, Sir Thomas, 62
+Moreville, Hugh de, 27
+
+Norman staircase, 45
+
+Pilgrims' Way, the, 6, 32, 34
+Prior's Gate, 44, 45
+
+Reculver, 2, 46
+Reform Bill, the, 50, 51
+Religious houses, 62
+Richborough, 11
+Roman Canterbury, 10-12, 16, 58, 61
+
+St. Augustine's Abbey, 11, 14, 19, 31, 58-60
+St. Dunstan, Church of, 19, 32, 40, 62
+
+St. Martin, Church of, 14, 16, 17, 19, 41, 58
+St. Mildred, Church of, 19
+St. Pancras, Church of, 17, 19
+Salisbury, John of, 26
+Sandwich, 23
+Selling, Prior, 38
+Somerset, John Beaufort, Earl of, 50
+Stanley, Dean, 23, 24, 30
+Sumner, Archbishop, 49
+
+Thorn, William, 17
+Tracy, William de, 25
+
+Walls of the city, 56-59
+Warrior's Chapel, the, 50
+West gate, the, 56-57
+William of Sens, 35, 51
+William Rufus, 22
+William the Englishman, 35
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEAUTIFUL BRITAIN***
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diff --git a/old/13890-h/13890-h.htm b/old/13890-h/13890-h.htm
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+<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+ "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
+<html>
+<head>
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" />
+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Beautiful Britain, by Gordon Home</title>
+ <style type="text/css" id="internalstyle">
+/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */
+<!--
+ p { margin-top: .75em;
+ text-align: justify;
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+ .poem span {display: block; margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;}
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+<body>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Beautiful Britain, by Gordon Home</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: Beautiful Britain</p>
+<p>Author: Gordon Home</p>
+<p>Release Date: October 29, 2004 [eBook #13890]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEAUTIFUL BRITAIN***</p>
+<h4><br /><br />E-text prepared by Ted Garvin, Victoria Woosley,<br />
+ and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+ (www.pgdp.net)<br /><br /></h4>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <p>&nbsp;</p>
+ <h1>Beautiful Britain</h1>
+ <h2>Gordon Home</h2>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="COVER" id="COVER"></a> <img src="./images/cover.jpg"
+ alt="THE NORMAN STAIRCASE TO THE KING'S SCHOOL" /></p>
+ <h1>Canterbury</h1>
+ <hr />
+ <hr />
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_1" id="PLATE_1"></a> <img src="./images/plate-1.jpg"
+ alt="THE NAVE OF CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL" /> <a name="Page_1" id="Page_1"></a></p>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <p class="ctr"><img src="./images/title.png" alt="TITLE ILLUSTRATION" /></p>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <p class="poem"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a> "When that Aprill&eacute; with his
+ shower&eacute;s soote [= sweet]<br />
+ The drought of March hath pierc&eacute;d to the roote,<br />
+ </p>
+ <hr class="short" />
+ <p class="poem">Then longen folk to go on pilgrimages,<br />
+ And palmers for to seeken strang&eacute; strands,<br />
+ To ferme [=ancient] halwes [=shrines] knowthe [= known] in sundry lands<br />
+ And specially from every shir&eacute;s end<br />
+ Of Eng&eacute;land, to Canterbury they wend,<br />
+ The holy, blissful martyr for to seek<br />
+ That them hath holpen when that they were sick."</p>
+ <p class="signature">CHAUCER: <i>Canterbury Tales</i>.</p>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <h2><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+ <div class="ctr">
+ <table summary="toc" border="0" cellpadding="5">
+ <colgroup>
+ <col span="2" align="left" />
+ <col align="right" />
+ </colgroup>
+ <tr>
+ <th colspan="2">CHAPTER</th>
+ <th>PAGE</th>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>I.</td>
+ <td>THE PILGRIM'S APPROACH TO THE CITY</td>
+ <td><a href='#CHAPTER_I'>5</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>II.</td>
+ <td>THE STORY OF CANTERBURY</td>
+ <td><a href='#CHAPTER_II'>9</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>III.</td>
+ <td>THE CATHEDRAL</td>
+ <td><a href='#CHAPTER_III'>40</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>IV.</td>
+ <td>THE CITY</td>
+ <td><a href='#CHAPTER_IV'>56</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>&nbsp;</td>
+ <td>INDEX</td>
+ <td><a href='#INDEX'></a></td>
+ </tr>
+ </table>
+ </div>
+ <h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+ <table summary="toc" border="0" cellpadding="2">
+ <colgroup>
+ <col span="2" align="left" />
+ <col align="right" />
+ </colgroup>
+ <tr>
+ <th colspan="2">PLATE</th>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>1.</td>
+ <td>THE NAVE OF CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_1"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>&nbsp;</td>
+ <th colspan="2" align="right">FACING PAGE</th>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>2.</td>
+ <td>CHRIST CHURCH GATE</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_2">9</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>3.</td>
+ <td>THE CATHEDRAL FROM NORTH-WEST</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_3">16</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>4.</td>
+ <td>THE "ANGEL" OR "BELL HARRY" TOWER AND THE LAVATORY TOWER OF THE
+ CATHEDRAL</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_4">25</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>5.</td>
+ <td>THE CHAPEL OF "OUR LADY" IN THE UNDERCROFT OF THE CATHEDRAL</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_5">27</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>6.</td>
+ <td>THE WARRIOR'S CHAPEL</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_6">30</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>7.</td>
+ <td>THE MARTYRDOM IN THE NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_7">32</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>8.</td>
+ <td>THE DOORWAY FROM THE CLOISTERS TO THE MARTYRDOM</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_8">43</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>9.</td>
+ <td>THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE IN CANTERBURY</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_9">46</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>10.</td>
+ <td>THE HOUSE OF THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_10">49</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>11.</td>
+ <td>WESTGATE CANTERBURY FROM WITHIN</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLATE_11">56</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>12.</td>
+ <td>THE NORMAN STAIRCASE TO THE KING'S SCHOOL</td>
+ <td><a href="#COVER"><i>On the cover</i></a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>13.</td>
+ <td>PLAN OF CANTERBURY.</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLAN_1">5</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>14.</td>
+ <td>PLAN OF CANTERBURY CASTLE.</td>
+ <td><a href="#PLAN_2">63</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ </table>
+ <hr />
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a><a name="PLAN_1" id="PLAN_1"></a> <a
+ href="./images/plan-1.png"><img src="./images/plan-1_th.jpg" width="640" height="447"
+ alt="PLAN OF CANTERBURY" /></a><br />
+ PLAN OF CANTERBURY, SHOWING THE CHIEF STREETS AND THE MOST INTERESTING BUILDINGS</p>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <h1><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a>CANTERBURY</h1>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I</h2>
+ <h3>THE PILGRIM'S APPROACH TO THE CITY</h3>
+ <p>It was on April 24, 1538, that a writ of summons was sent forth in the name of
+ Henry VIII., "To thee, Thomas Becket, some time Archbishop of Canterbury"-&mdash;who
+ had then been dead for 368 years&mdash;-to appear within thirty days to answer to a
+ charge of treason, contumacy, and rebellion against his sovereign lord, King Henry
+ II. But the days passed, and no spirit having stirred the venerated bones of the
+ wonder-working saint, on June 10 judgment was given in favour of Henry, and it was
+ decreed that the Archbishop's bones were to be burnt, and his world-famous shrine
+ overlaid with gold and sparkling with jewels was to be forfeited to the Crown.
+ Further than this went the sentence, for Thomas of Canterbury was to be a saint no <a
+ name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a>longer, and his name and memory were to be wiped out.
+ The remains were not burned, but throughout the land every statue, wall-painting, and
+ window to the said Thomas Becket was rigorously searched out and destroyed, and from
+ every record his name was carefully erased. And so it came about that the year 1538
+ saw the last pilgrimage to the shrine of St. Thomas the Martyr.</p>
+ <p>A growing incredulity had prepared the way for this wave of iconoclasm, and the
+ shrine once destroyed ended for ever this first phase of the Canterbury pilgrimages.
+ It might have been truly thought, if anyone ever gave a moment to such speculations a
+ century ago, when Englishmen cared little for the landmarks of their island story,
+ that the last pilgrim who would ever wend his way along the old road to Canterbury
+ had died in the sixteenth century, and yet how profoundly untrue would that
+ impression have been in the light of the new enthusiasm for the site of the shrine! A
+ considerable literature on the Pilgrims' Way from Winchester has already sprung up,
+ and this little book is itself a souvenir for the pilgrim to carry away as evidence
+ of the journey he has made, provided <a name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a>he cares to
+ write inside the cover his name, the date of his visit, and the two words "at
+ Canterbury."</p>
+ <p>Now, I do not disguise the fact that many of the twentieth-century pilgrims are
+ not possessed of the true spirit of the devotee, and instead of approaching the
+ object of their journey by the old-time way, along the beautiful hills of Surrey and
+ Kent, they use the iron road which rushes them all unprepared into the city of the
+ saint-martyr. But who will maintain that all those who formed the motley throng of
+ the medieval pilgrimages came with their minds properly attuned, and who is prepared
+ to say that because the majority of modern pilgrims consummate their aim by using the
+ convenience of the railway they are less devout than Chaucer's merchant,
+ serjeant-at-law, doctor of physic, and the rest who rode on horseback&mdash;the most
+ convenient, rapid, and comfortable method of travel then available?</p>
+ <p>There is, however, a material disadvantage suffered by those who use the railway,
+ in that they miss the first view of the Cathedral city set in the midst of
+ soft-swelling eocene hills, which comes as the first stage of the gradual unfolding
+ <a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a>of the tragic story. The lukewarm pilgrim should
+ therefore remember that he will add vastly to the richness of his impressions if he
+ deserts his train at Selling or Chartham and walks the rest of the way over
+ Harbledown, where he will see the little city of the Middle Ages encircled with its
+ ancient wall and crowned by the towers of its cathedral very much as did the
+ cosmopolitan groups of travel-soiled men and women who for century after century
+ feasted their eyes from the selfsame spot.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_2" id="PLATE_2"></a><img src="./images/plate-2.jpg"
+ alt="CHRIST CHURCH GATEWAY" /><br />
+ CHRIST CHURCH GATEWAY, CANTERBURY.<br />
+ This beautiful entrance to the Cathedral precincts was built between 1507 and 1517.
+ The richly sculptured stone has weathered exceedingly. <a name="Page_9"
+ id="Page_9"></a></p>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2>
+ <h3>THE STORY OF CANTERBURY</h3>
+ <p>It would be a mistake to imagine that it solely was due to that bloody deed
+ perpetrated on a certain December afternoon back in Norman times that Canterbury
+ occupies a place of such pre-eminence in English history, for the city was ancient
+ before the days of Thomas of Canterbury; and in this short chapter it is the writer's
+ endeavour to indicate the position of that tragic occurrence in the chronology of the
+ former Kentish capital.</p>
+ <p>The earliest people who have left evidence of their existence near Canterbury
+ belong to the Pal&aelig;olithic Age; but as it is not known whether this remote
+ prehistoric population occupied the actual site, or even whether the valley may not
+ have then been a salt-water creek, it is wiser in this brief sketch to pass over
+ these primitive people and the lake-dwellers who, after a considerable interval, were
+ possibly their successors, <a name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></a>and come to the surer
+ ground of history. This brings us to the early Roman invasions of Britain and Julius
+ C&aelig;sar's description of the people of Kent, whose civilization he found on a
+ higher level than in the other parts he penetrated. He described them as being little
+ different in their manner of living from the Gauls, whose houses were built of planks
+ and willow-branches, roofed with thatch, and were large and circular in form, but he
+ adds:</p>
+ <div class='blkquot'>
+ <p>All the Britons dye themselves with woad, which gives them a bluish colour, and
+ so makes them very dreadful in battle. They have long hair, and shave all the body
+ except the head and upper lip.</p>
+ </div>
+ <p>These people, owning allegiance to various chiefs and living in camps or villages
+ defended by earthen ramparts, were attacked by the Roman expeditions which invaded
+ Britain in the opening years of the Christian Era, and there is evidence for
+ believing that there was a British settlement of considerable importance on the site
+ of Canterbury. Of this there remains a lofty artificial mound, now known as the Dane
+ John&mdash;another form of the familiar donjon. The Romans called it Durovernum, a
+ name perhaps derived from the British Derwhern, and although <a name="Page_11"
+ id="Page_11"></a>their historians are curiously silent in regard to the place there
+ cannot be any doubt that the town rose to great importance in the later years of the
+ four centuries of the Roman occupation of Britain. A glance at a map of the Roman
+ roads in Kent shows Durovernum as a centre for five great ways leading from the coast
+ towns of Portus Lemanis (Lymne), Portus Dubris (Dover), Portus Ritupis (Richborough,
+ near Sandwich), Regulbium (Reculver), and also the Isle of Thanet, and from this
+ important centre the Watling Street ran straight to Londinium. These roads all
+ converge upon the spot where the River Stour became a tidal estuary and where it was
+ fordable, and all who arrived or departed from the ports nearest to Gaul would
+ therefore of necessity pass that way. Another indication of the size of the town is
+ found in the five Roman burial-places discovered close to Canterbury, and if anything
+ else were needed it is only necessary to look at the walls of St. Augustine's Abbey
+ and many other buildings of the Middle Ages to see the large quantities of Roman
+ material then available. Wherever any excavation has taken place in the heart of the
+ present city, the foundations of Roman buildings with tesselated pavements <a
+ name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a>and quantities of pottery, small objects of domestic
+ use, and coins have been brought to light. These remains are all far beneath the
+ present surface, a most significant fact in relation to the transition period between
+ Roman and Saxon Canterbury.</p>
+ <p>The Romans having finally abandoned Britain early in the fifth century, the
+ invasions of the Anglo-Saxons began to take a permanent form, and the Jutes gained
+ possession of the south-eastern corner of England. During the period of struggle
+ between the rival groups of invaders Durovernum must have been entirely abandoned by
+ the Britons, and the conquerors having reduced the city to a shapeless ruin, appear
+ to have allowed it to become over-grown to such an extent that when, after a lapse of
+ perhaps a whole century, the town was rebuilt, no attempt was made to dig down to the
+ former surface. The new buildings therefore arose with their foundations some feet
+ above the original level of the Romano-British city. So complete was the gap between
+ the destroyed Durovernum and the Saxon town which eventually grew up that men had had
+ time to forget the old name, and, finding it necessary to invent one, called it<a
+ name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></a> Cantwarabyrig, which meant the city of the men of
+ Kent. This title reveals the fact that the new settlers had by this time fixed their
+ limits in Kent, and that they had found this site at the junction of all the Roman
+ roads the most convenient for their capital. It was probably not until Ethelbert had
+ begun to reign in 561 that Canterbury became the most important place in Kent, and at
+ that time the site of the Cathedral was outside the town walls. Ethelbert, it should
+ be mentioned, had extended his power so far beyond the confines of Kent that he had
+ authority as far north as the Humber, and Bede writes of "the city of Canterbury,
+ which was the metropolis of all his dominions."</p>
+ <p>Up to the year 597 this Saxon capital, of practically all south-eastern England,
+ was completely heathen, saving only the King's Frankish wife Bertha and Bishop
+ Luidhard, who had come over as her chaplain about the year 575, when the marriage
+ with the heathen Ethelbert had taken place. But in the year 597, that famous landmark
+ in the Christianizing of Saxon England, Augustine, landed&mdash;if Bede may be
+ trusted for a topographical detail of this character&mdash;on the island of
+ Ebbsfleet, where Hengist and Horsa had previously found <a name="Page_14"
+ id="Page_14"></a>a haven for their vessels. This is now part of the corner of Kent,
+ called Thanet, and is an island no longer. There Ethelbert, in that generous and
+ broad-minded speech, familiar to all students of English history, while expressing
+ himself as content with the gods of his forefathers (these included Thor, Woden,
+ Freya, and the rest), yet would place no obstacles in the way of these missionaries
+ of new and strange ideas. He even provided them with quarters in Canterbury, and in
+ the old church of St. Martin outside the city, where Queen Bertha had been in the
+ habit of worshipping with her chaplain, Augustine and his monks began to preach and
+ instruct all who cared to listen. It seems unlikely that the influence of the queen
+ and her good chaplain should have been entirely without results, and it is quite
+ possible that Augustine found the ground prepared for the seed he diligently began to
+ sow. Bishop Luidhard, whose name should always be linked with that of St. Augustine,
+ appears to have died soon after the arrival of Pope Gregory's mission, and his
+ remains were eventually placed in a golden chest in the church of Saints Peter and
+ Paul, afterwards St. Augustine's.</p>
+ <p>The zeal and enthusiasm of the band o <a name="Page_15"
+ id="Page_15"></a>missionaries began to bring in many converts. Ethelbert himself
+ consented to be baptized on June 2 in the year of Augustine's landing, and the Saxons
+ soon began to embrace the new faith in thousands, so that in a very few years the
+ Christianizing of England had made such progress that Canterbury became the
+ headquarters of the Christian Church in England, a position it has held without
+ interruption ever since&mdash;a period of over 1,300 years. It took England nearly
+ nine centuries to make up its mind to rid itself of the stultifying authority of the
+ Bishop of Rome and to shake itself free from monasticism and the various forms of
+ idolatrous worship which grew up in the sultry atmosphere of the Papal Church; but
+ these great changes have been evolved, and still the ancient city of Canterbury,
+ hallowed with so many memories of saintly lives, continues to be the metropolis of
+ the Established Church of England. And the imminence of further change carries with
+ it no danger of any break in this long association of Canterbury with ecclesiastical
+ control, for if in the slow grinding of the wheels of Time there should cease to be a
+ State Church in this land, the organization of the churches holding to the
+ Elizabethan form of worship will no <a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a>doubt continue
+ to be centred and focussed at Canterbury.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_3" id="PLATE_3"></a><img src="./images/plate-3.jpg"
+ alt="CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM THE NORTH WEST." /><br />
+ CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM THE NORTH WEST.<br />
+ The state central or "Bell Harry" Tower is one of the most beautiful works of the
+ Perpendicular period in existence.<a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a></p>
+ <p>As the first church mentioned in history associated with Christian worship St.
+ Martin's occupies a unique position, and yet the fabric of the little building does
+ not conclusively prove that it is even in part the actual church of this fascinating
+ period. Cautious arch&aelig;ologists, represented by Mr. J.T. Micklethwaite, regard
+ the earliest work in St. Martin's as belonging to the Saxon period, Roman materials
+ having merely been worked up by the later builders. On the other hand, there are
+ various careful antiquaries who are willing to accept the oldest parts of the church
+ as Roman, and claim that St. Martin's is a Christian church put up during the Roman
+ occupation. Perhaps the problem will be solved by further discoveries, but until then
+ it seems wiser to regard St. Martin's as being in part a very early Saxon building,
+ very probably standing on the site of the restored Roman church in which Queen Bertha
+ worshipped before Augustine's arrival. Even if it were possible to state that parts
+ of the walls were Roman, it would not be an easy matter to say whether the building
+ were older than the two early Christian churches of North Cornwall, preserved through
+ the ages by the drifting sand of that exposed coastline; therefore, to write, as so
+ many have done, that St. Martin's is the oldest Christian church in England, is not
+ justified by the facts. Besides St. Martin's, William Thorne, a fourteenth century
+ chronicler, makes mention of "a temple or idol-place where Ethelbert had been wont to
+ pray and to sacrifice to demons," and this building, instead of being destroyed, was
+ purged from its defilements and idols and hallowed by Augustine when he dedicated it
+ to St. Pancras the Roman boy-martyr. When the site, about halfway between St.
+ Martin's and St. Augustine's, was excavated in 1901, it was found to possess a nave
+ about 47 feet long by 26 feet wide, with an apsidal chancel nearly the same width and
+ depth separated from the nave by four Roman columns, and Mr. W.H. St. John Hope, of
+ the Society of Antiquaries, who carried out the operations with Canon Routledge, has
+ suggested that this may be the first church built by Augustine out of Roman materials
+ ready to hand, while the larger one, dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, a little to
+ the west, was slowly <a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>being constructed. It was not
+ finished when, in 605, Augustine died, and eventually the dedication included the
+ canonized first archbishop of the English Church, who was buried in the building when
+ it was finished. The other great figures of the period&mdash;Ethelbert and his Queen,
+ and her chaplain&mdash;were also laid to rest in the church. A few years ago it was
+ only possible to form an idea of this large structure from the Norman north wall of
+ the nave and part of the north-west tower, but now that nearly the whole of the
+ eastern end has been excavated one can see the underground portion of practically all
+ the east end and part of the north transept. Ethelbert's son, Eadbald, having been
+ converted two years after his accession, built another church east of that of Saints
+ Peter and Paul, and this was joined on to the abbey church when the east end was
+ extended about the time of the Norman Conquest. At the same time as he began the
+ monastery subsequently called after him, Augustine appears to have made his
+ headquarters close to another early Christian church within the walls of the Saxon
+ city. This, according to Bede, was hallowed "in the name of the Holy Saviour," and
+ thus arose <a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a>the name Christ Church&mdash;the name
+ the cathedral now bears. In these early times there were therefore five Christian
+ churches either restored or under construction, and they were all roughly in a line
+ running east and west. First there was Christ Church and Augustine's
+ residence&mdash;eventually the priory&mdash;within the walls, then the embryo abbey
+ of Saints Peter and Paul, with the chapel of St. Mary a little to the east. Farther
+ still was the church of St. Pancras, and farthest from the city walls, on its little
+ hill, St. Martin's. There are other traces of Saxon work in the church of St. Mildred
+ near the castle, but this is much later than anything that has been discovered on the
+ other sites, and Dr. Cox points out what he claims as pre-Conquest work in St.
+ Dunstan's outside the city, on the Whitstable Road.</p>
+ <p>Canterbury appears to have grown and prospered in spite of various attacks made by
+ the Danes until the year 1011, when the city, after a defence lasting nearly three
+ weeks, fell into the hands of the invaders through treachery from within. Alphege,
+ the good old archbishop, was obliged to witness the savagery of the Danes when they
+ burst through the gates and began a horrible slaughter, which included the monks of<a
+ name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a> Christ Church, and it is said that about 7,000
+ Saxons perished. Not content with all this butchery, they burnt the cathedral.
+ Archbishop Alphege was carried off by the victorious Danes, who at Greenwich gave way
+ to drunken excesses, and in brutal fashion killed their prisoner. The body was
+ brought from London, where it had been buried, back to Canterbury ten years later by
+ Canute, the first Danish King of England, who made what atonement he could by lending
+ his freshly painted state barge for the ceremonious translation of the martyr's
+ remains. Arrived at Canterbury, the King proceeded to further demonstrate his
+ submission to the Church his people had devastated by hanging up his crown in the
+ cathedral which Alphege's successor, Archbishop Living, had reroofed. Canute, having
+ made a journey to Rome in 1031, among other pious resolutions, declared that he would
+ amend his life and conversation, and it was with his help that the Saxon cathedral
+ was properly repaired and decorated.</p>
+ <p>During the year following the Norman Conquest a fire began in Canterbury, which,
+ besides destroying many houses, reduced the unfortunate cathedral to a roofless ruin
+ once more. Three <a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a>years later, in 1070, when
+ Lanfranc was made the first Norman archbishop, he decided that the Saxon walls were
+ worthless, and he swept away every trace of the building, which may have been
+ partially Roman, before proceeding to erect a larger and grander pile in the Norman
+ style familiar to him. One feature of the original church has, nevertheless, left its
+ mark on the Norman cathedral. This was a crypt described by Eadmer, the monkish
+ historian, who, as a boy, saw the Saxon church being demolished. It was only a small
+ affair, but it must have been the most remarkable feature of the comparatively small
+ oblong building, for it was not, properly speaking, a crypt at all, but an undercroft
+ beneath the eastern altars. "To reach these altars," says Eadmer, "a certain crypt,
+ which the Romans call a confessionary, had to be ascended by means of several steps
+ from the choir of the singers. Thus the Norman archbishop, in planning a larger
+ cathedral, constructed a crypt under the choir of his new building, and the steps one
+ ascends to-day are there as the direct outcome of the structural methods of rude
+ Saxon times."</p>
+ <p>Lanfranc completed his new cathedral in 1077, <a name="Page_22"
+ id="Page_22"></a>and in his lifetime he also founded the great Benedictine priory of
+ Christ Church, whose considerable remains add so much medievalism to the surroundings
+ of the vast cathedral. Anselm succeeded Lanfranc after an interval of a few years,
+ during which Rufus found it exceedingly desirable to keep the see vacant while the
+ revenues were diverted into the royal coffers, and scarcely twenty years after his
+ predecessor's church was finished, Prior Ernulph pulled down the east end and
+ constructed in its place the magnificent Norman choir, with its transepts and chapels
+ standing with various alterations to-day. This great work was finished by Prior
+ Conrad, who succeeded Ernulph, and the noble work, which became known as Conrad's
+ Choir, was consecrated in 1130 by Archbishop de Corbeuil. To make this bald statement
+ and omit to mention the ceremony attending it would be misleading; for not only were
+ Henry I. and David of Scotland present, but Canterbury saw such a gathering of
+ dignitaries of Church and State with their splendid retinues that the historian found
+ nothing to compare with it but Solomon's dedication of the Temple!</p>
+ <p>This splendid church, representing the finest achievement of Norman
+ master-builders and <a name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a>workmen, rising high above the
+ domestic quarters of the monastery and standing forth conspicuously from every part
+ of the little walled city, then consisting, to a considerable extent, of low wooden
+ houses, had now reached the stage in its development when it was to be the scene of
+ the murder which was to make Canterbury the most famous resort of pilgrims in Europe.
+ This occurred forty years later; but no change in the great Norman church had taken
+ place in that period.</p>
+ <p>So thrilling is the whole story of Becket's murder that there is every temptation
+ to tell again the tale of Henry II.'s hasty exclamation, and the headlong journey
+ from Normandy to Canterbury made by those four knights whose foul deed history has
+ not ceased to condemn; but for a full account the reader is advised to turn to Dean
+ Stanley's "Historical Memorials of Canterbury." It was in the same year and the same
+ month as his death that Becket had returned from exile to Canterbury after an absence
+ of six years, and at the close of a decade of continual struggle with the King. The
+ Archbishop, having landed at Sandwich on his arrival from France, had been received
+ with the greatest enthusiasm, and the people of Canterbury showed <a name="Page_24"
+ id="Page_24"></a>their delight in every possible manner. There were imposing
+ banquets, and hangings of silk were put up in the cathedral for the great occasion;
+ but at the end of this December, on the gloomy afternoon of the 29th, the four
+ murderers arrived in the city. The day was a Tuesday, the day on which all the great
+ events of Becket's life had taken place; for not only had he been born on a Tuesday,
+ but on that day he had been exiled, on that day he had been warned of his impending
+ martyrdom, and on that day he had returned from exile.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_4" id="PLATE_4"></a> <img src="./images/plate-4.jpg"
+ alt="THE &quot;ANGEL&quot; OR &quot;BELL HARRY&quot; TOWER AND THE BAPTISTERY." /><br />
+ THE "ANGEL" OR "BELL HARRY" TOWER AND THE BAPTISTERY.<br />
+ The massive Norman work is seen here in strong contrast with the lightness and
+ delicacy of the Perpendicular tower.<a name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a></p>
+ <p>While leaving the long story to be told with the amazingly ample detail Dean
+ Stanley was able to employ, one is tempted to quote his account of the first
+ interview between Becket and the four knights, for too often the memory recalls
+ nearly every fact of the murder except the indictment, if it may be so called. The
+ four knights had discarded their weapons and concealed their armour under the cloak
+ and gown of ordinary life on entering the cathedral precincts, so that on their first
+ appearance in the Archbishop's private room their aspect was sinister without being
+ immediately threatening. Becket had just finished dinner, and was seated on his couch
+ talking to his friends when the four knights were announced, and he pointedly
+ continued, his conversation with the monk who sat by him and on whose shoulder he was
+ leaning.</p>
+ <div class='blkquot'>
+ <p>They on their part entered without a word, beyond a greeting exchanged in a
+ whisper to the attendants who stood near the door, and then marched straight to
+ where the Archbishop sate, and placed themselves on the floor at his feet, among
+ the clergy who were reclining around. Radulf the archer sate behind them, on the
+ boards. Becket now turned round for the first time, and gazed steadfastly on each
+ in silence, which he at last broke by saluting Tracy by name. The conspirators
+ continued to look mutely at each other, till Fitzurse, who throughout took the
+ lead, replied with a scornful expression, "God help you!" Becket's face grew
+ crimson, and he glanced round at their countenances, which seemed to gather fire
+ from Fitzurse's speech. Fitzurse again broke forth: "We have a message from the
+ King over the water&mdash;tell us whether you will hear it in private, or in the
+ hearing of all." "As you wish," said the Archbishop. "Nay, as <i>you</i> wish,"
+ said Fitzurse. "Nay, as <i>you</i> wish," said Becket. The monks, at the
+ Archbishop's intimation, withdrew into an adjoining room; but the doorkeeper ran up
+ and kept the door ajar, that they might see from the outside what was going on.</p>
+ </div>
+ <p>Before the knights began the recital of their complaints, however, Becket appears
+ to have become alarmed at the demeanour of the four men, who afterwards admitted that
+ they thought of killing him then and there with the only <a name="Page_26"
+ id="Page_26"></a>weapon that was handy&mdash;a cross-staff that lay at his feet.</p>
+ <div class='blkquot'>
+ <p>The monks hurried back, and Fitzurse, apparently calmed by their presence,
+ resumed his statement of the complaints of the King. The complaints&mdash;which are
+ given by the various chroniclers in very different words&mdash;were three in
+ number. "The King over the water commands you to perform your duty to the King on
+ this side of the water, instead of taking away his crown." "Rather than take away
+ his crown," replied Becket, "I would give him three or four crowns." "You have
+ excited disturbances in the kingdom, and the King requires you to answer for them
+ at his court." "Never," said the Archbishop, "shall the sea again come between me
+ and my Church, unless I am dragged thence by the feet." "You have excommunicated
+ the bishops, and you must absolve them." "It was not I," replied Becket, "but the
+ Pope, and you must go to him for absolution."</p>
+ </div>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_5" id="PLATE_5"></a> <img src="./images/plate-5.jpg"
+ alt="THE CHAPEL OF &quot;OUR LADY&quot; IN THE UNDERCROFT OF THE CATHEDRAL." /><br />
+ THE CHAPEL OF "OUR LADY" IN THE UNDERCROFT OF THE CATHEDRAL.<br />
+ Being entirely above the ground this is not a crypt as it is so often miscalled. The
+ morning light in winter fills the spaces between the massive Norman piers.<a
+ name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a></p>
+ <p>After some more stormy words the knights became irritated by Becket's
+ contradictions, and swore "by God's wounds" that they had endured enough, but Becket,
+ putting aside John of Salisbury's suggestion that he should speak privately to the
+ angry knights, began to complain of the grievances and insults he had himself
+ received during the preceding week: "They have attacked my servants," he said; "they
+ have cut off my sumpter-mule's tail; they have carried off the casks of wine that
+ were the King's own gift." To this Hugh de Moreville, who was the least aggressive of
+ the four, replied: "Why did you not complain to the King of these outrages? Why did
+ you take upon yourself to punish them by your own authority?" But Becket, turning
+ sharply towards him, said: "Hugh! how proudly you lift up your head! When the rights
+ of the Church are violated, I shall wait for no man's permission to avenge them. I
+ will give to the King the things that are the King's, but to God the things that are
+ God's. It is my business, and I alone will see to it." Taking up such an attitude in
+ front of four men who had come hot-foot to Canterbury with the express determination
+ to seek an excuse for killing him, Becket was sealing his own fate.</p>
+ <div class='blkquot'>
+ <p>For the first time in the interview the Archbishop had assumed an attitude of
+ defiance; the fury of the knights broke at once through the bonds which had
+ partially restrained it, and displayed itself openly in those impassioned gestures
+ which are now confined to the half-civilized nations of the South and East, but
+ which seem to have been natural to all classes of medieval Europe. Their eyes
+ flashed fire, they sprang upon their feet, and, rushing close up to him, gnashed
+ their teeth, twisting their long gloves, and wildly threw their arms above their
+ heads. Fitzurse exclaimed: "You threaten us&mdash;you threaten us! are you going to
+ excommunicate us all?"</p>
+ </div>
+ <p><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></a> Becket sprang up from his couch at this
+ insulting demonstration, and in the state of great excitement into which he could
+ fall when roused, he flung down his defiant challenge that all the swords in England
+ could not shake his obedience to the Pope. The four knights, goaded to fury by other
+ passionate words, left him, shouting, "To arms! to arms!" They made their way with an
+ excited throng to the great gateway, where they armed, while the doors were closed to
+ shut off the monastery from communication with the town. The Archbishop seems to have
+ been fully alive to his danger, and yet he persistently refused to take the smallest
+ measure for his safety, opening with his own hands the door from the cloisters into
+ the north transept which some of the monks had closed and barred immediately after
+ they had dragged the Archbishop into the nearly dark building.</p>
+ <p>Vespers had just begun when the murderers entered, but the singing of that service
+ was never completed. The fear of sacrilege induced the knights to try to drag the
+ defenceless Archbishop out of the Cathedral, but he struggled with such vigour,
+ flinging one of the men down on the stone floor, that they gave up the attempt and <a
+ name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></a>killed him with three or four sword strokes, the last
+ of which, as he lay prone, was delivered by Richard le Bret, or the Breton, and so
+ tremendous was the force with which it was delivered that the crown of the head was
+ severed from the skull and the sword broke in two on the pavement.</p>
+ <p>Canterbury being much divided in its attachment to Becket, the murderers found
+ escape easy, and the general regrets most expressed seem to have been at the
+ sacrilege rather than at the murder.</p>
+ <p>It is almost incredible how rapidly Becket became St. Thomas of Canterbury. Within
+ a few hours of the tragic scene, when, night having fallen and the great church being
+ closed and deserted, Osbert, the Archbishop's chamberlain, entering with a light in
+ his hand,found his master's body lying on its face, with the frightful wound exposed,
+ the monks had kissed the hands and feet of the corpse and called him by the name of
+ Saint Thomas. What appears to have raised the fraternity to this enthusiastic
+ anticipation of the canonization, officially announced at Westminster in 1173, was
+ the discovery that Becket had on beneath his outer robes, and the <a name="Page_30"
+ id="Page_30"></a>many other garments he wore, the black cowled cloak of the
+ Benedictines, and next to his skin a hair-cloth shirt of unusual roughness. When the
+ body was being prepared for the tomb this shirt was found to be easily removable for
+ the daily scourging Becket had been in the habit of enduring, the marks of the
+ stripes administered on the previous day being plainly visible. Dean Stanley adds
+ another fact not easy to be believed by those who have never become intimate with the
+ practices of medieval monasticism:</p>
+ <div class='blkquot'>
+ <p>Such austerity had hitherto been unknown to English saints, and the marvel was
+ increased by the sight&mdash;to our notions so revolting&mdash;of the innumerable
+ vermin with which the hair-cloth abounded&mdash;boiling over with them, as one
+ account describes it, like water in a simmering cauldron. At the dreadful sight all
+ the enthusiasm of the previous night revived with double ardour. They looked at one
+ another in silent wonder, then exclaimed, "See, see what a true monk he was, and we
+ knew it not!" and burst into alternate fits of weeping and laughter, between the
+ sorrow at having lost such a head and the joy of having found such a saint.</p>
+ </div>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_6" id="PLATE_6"></a> <img src="./images/plate-6.jpg"
+ alt="THE CHAPEL OF ST. MICHAEL OR THE WARRIORS' CHAPEL." /><br />
+ THE CHAPEL OF ST. MICHAEL OR THE WARRIORS' CHAPEL.<br />
+ It is one of the most interesting Chapels in the Cathedral, containing the tomb of
+ Stephen Langton and in the centre of the drawing that of Lady Margaret Holland and
+ her two husbands.<a name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a></p>
+ <p>Almost immediately the superstitious belief in the efficacy of a martyr's blood
+ made everyone who was permitted to approach Becket's body anxious to obtain a scrap
+ of a blood-stained garment to soak in water with which to anoint the eyes! In a short
+ time many parts of the clothes had been given away to the poor folk of Canterbury;
+ but as soon as the miracle-working properties came to be properly understood these
+ precious shreds of the Archbishop's voluminous garments ran up in value until the
+ possession of such a fragment meant wealth to the owner. Any relic of the body itself
+ had still greater value, its efficacy in curing the multifarious ailments of the
+ pilgrims who began to flock to Canterbury being immeasurable. And when the
+ neighbouring monastery of St. Augustine burned with desire to possess a relic of St.
+ Thomas they offered Roger, the keeper of the "Altars of the Martyrdom," the position
+ of Abbot of their own abbey if he would contrive to bring with him a portion of
+ Becket's skull. Roger had been specially chosen to guard this relic, but he succumbed
+ to the temptation offered by the rival establishment outside the city walls, and
+ having purloined the coveted fragment of the martyr, was duly installed in the
+ highest office of St. Augustine's. Whether the whole affair was public property at
+ the time does not fully appear, but those who recorded events at St. Augustine's <a
+ name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>did not hesitate to glory in the success of their
+ scheme!</p>
+ <p>So great was the popular execration of the murder that the autocratic Archbishop
+ who had not inspired universal admiration in his lifetime was soon to become the most
+ frequently invoked of all the calendar of saints, and the King himself, finding that
+ his submission to the Papal legate at Avranches, two years after the crime, was not
+ sufficient to avert the wrath of Heaven, which seemed to be visiting him in the form
+ of rebellions and disasters in every part of his dominions, came to Canterbury in
+ 1174 and went through a penance of extreme severity. Landing at Southampton, he came
+ by the Pilgrims' Way to Harbledown, and so entered the ancient city. At the church of
+ St. Dunstan, outside the walls, he took off his ordinary dress and walked barefoot
+ through the streets to the monastery of Christ Church. It was a wet day, but being in
+ the month of July the wearing of a shirt only with a cloak to keep off the rain could
+ not have been the cause of very great physical discomfort apart from the cutting of
+ his feet by stones on the road. At the Cathedral they took Henry to the tomb of the
+ man whose death he had caused, and there he knelt and shed bitter tears, groaning and
+ lamenting. After again regretting his rash words in an address read by Gilbert
+ Foliot, Bishop of London, and promising to restore the rights and property of the
+ Church, the King, kneeling at the tomb, wearing a hair-shirt with a woollen one above
+ it, placed his head and shoulders in one of the openings in the tomb and there
+ received five strokes with a monastic rod from each of the bishops and abbots
+ present, and afterwards the eighty monks each administered three strokes. Henry was
+ now quite absolved, but he remained for the whole night with his bare feet still
+ muddy and in the same penitential garb.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_7" id="PLATE_7"></a> <img src="./images/plate-7.jpg"
+ alt="THE SCENE OF THE MARTYRDOM IN THE NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT OF THE CATHEDRAL." /><br />
+ THE SCENE OF THE MARTYRDOM IN THE NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT OF THE CATHEDRAL.<br />
+ Since the tragic death of Becket in 1170 practically everything in this portion of
+ the Cathedral has been re-constructed. <a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a></p>
+ <p>Arriving in London, the King took to his bed, suffering from a dangerous fever,
+ but a few days later, hearing from Richmond in Yorkshire that the Scots had been
+ defeated and driven north, he recovered rapidly, believing implicitly, after the
+ manner of his age, that this success was attributable to the penance he had undergone
+ on the day before the battle.</p>
+ <p>And so, through the savage murder of an archbishop and the severe penance of a
+ king the archiepiscopal capital of England began to resound <a name="Page_34"
+ id="Page_34"></a>all over Europe, and the annual procession of pilgrims commenced to
+ traverse the hills along the old road from Winchester to the little Norman city. Not
+ by that way only did the vast crowds reach Canterbury, for there was scarcely a road
+ that at some period of the year did not send its contribution to the throng which
+ jostled through the gates into the narrow streets leading to the monastery gateway.
+ Year after year wealth poured into the Cathedral coffers, and pilgrims went away
+ lighter in spirits and in purse, but each carrying with them the little leaden bottle
+ in which the infinitely diluted blood of the martyr mixed with water was
+ distributed.</p>
+ <p>Scarcely two months after Henry's penance the splendid choir of the Cathedral
+ caught fire, and the townsfolk, in a state between grief and rage, found themselves
+ unable to stay the progress of the flames until nearly everything that could burn had
+ vanished. The nave suffered less than Conrad's splendid choir, and in that less
+ ruined portion of the building a temporary altar was erected. But for this fire it
+ might have been possible for the modern pilgrim to see the building as it appeared
+ during the stirring events just <a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a>recounted; for,
+ notwithstanding the wealth of the monastery of Christ Church, it would have probably
+ been thought desirable to retain the fabric as much as possible as it appeared in
+ Becket's time. The fire came, however, and the choir was to a great extent rebuilt,
+ but fortunately the chapels were only slightly affected.</p>
+ <p>After careful inquiry the monastery decided to employ William of Sens as architect
+ for the reconstruction, and the excellent work of this clever Norman craftsman lives
+ to-day in the eastern portion of the cathedral church. He set to work soon after the
+ fire; but, after four years of labour, was so much injured by a fall from the
+ scaffolding that he was obliged to abandon his unfinished work and return to his
+ native Normandy. Upon an Englishman named William devolved the task of completing the
+ work.</p>
+ <p>Either following the Frenchman's plans or adapting them to his own ideas, he
+ finished the eastern parts of the church as they stand to-day in the year 1184. To
+ one or both of these architects is due the unusual device of narrowing the choir to
+ avoid altering the site of the Trinity Chapel of Becket's time. When the
+ reconstruction <a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a>of Conrad's Norman choir began, the
+ Gothic style was just beginning to appear&mdash;an incipient tendency towards a
+ pointed arch here and there which grew into what is called the Transitional Period;
+ and to this style&mdash;in between the Romanesque semicircular arch, with its
+ accompanying massiveness, and the first style of Gothic known as Early English,
+ distinguished by the pointed arch, detached pillars decorating the triforium and
+ clerestory, and elaborate mouldings and capitals&mdash;the choir belongs.</p>
+ <p>When the whole of the east end of the cathedral was finished, nearly two centuries
+ elapsed before any further change took place beyond the beginning of the
+ chapter-house. At the commencement of that period, however, one of Canterbury's most
+ magnificent scenes of ecclesiastical pomp occurred in connection with the remains of
+ Becket. The summer of 1220 saw the completion of the new shrine, and on July 7, the
+ translation of the saint's remains was accomplished amid scenes of the most
+ astonishing splendour, described by those who were present as being without a
+ parallel in the history of England, the crowds including people from many foreign
+ countries. Money was spent so lavishly <a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a>on the
+ entertainment of the innumerable persons of distinction who were present or took part
+ in the great ceremony that for several years the finances of the see were
+ unpleasantly reminiscent of the vast expenditure. Henry III. was present, but he was
+ not old enough to be a bearer of the great iron-bound chest containing the poor
+ remnants of Becket's human guise. In the presence of nearly every ecclesiastical
+ dignitary in the land the remains were placed in the newly finished shrine all aglow
+ with jewels set in gold and silver.</p>
+ <p>Throughout the centuries succeeding this crowning glory of Canterbury, the little
+ walled city saw many great functions apart from the yearly stream of pilgrims of
+ every grade of society, and the huge doles of food and drink given away by the two
+ great monasteries and the lesser houses of the city must have brought together an
+ unwholesome concourse of the needy.</p>
+ <p>Every fifty years after the translation of Becket's remains to the great shrine
+ there was a special festival on July 7, when the people of the archiepiscopal city
+ would find their resources strained to the very uttermost in feeding and housing the
+ great assemblage. The martyrdom took place <a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a>on
+ December 29, but owing to the time of the year this festival did not draw so many as
+ the summer one. All through the year the pilgrims came and went, and instead of
+ falling off in numbers as the martyrdom receded, the popularity of the saint did not
+ reach its zenith until the fifteenth century. Royal visits were of frequent
+ occurrence, and of all the cities of England, after London, Canterbury would appear
+ to have entertained more distinguished personages than any other.</p>
+ <p>Between 1378 and 1411 Prior Chillenden pulled down Lanfranc's Norman nave and
+ transept, which had survived the fire, and rebuilt them in the Perpendicular style,
+ then prevailing. When this work was finished and the south-western tower had been
+ completed, in 1481, there was not much left of the Norman priory church built by
+ Lanfranc. The north-western or Arundel Tower, the last survival of Lanfranc's church,
+ was rebuilt in 1840 and made to match its Perpendicular neighbour and the central
+ tower&mdash;the external masterpiece of the cathedral&mdash;commenced by Prior
+ Molashe in 1433, and completed by Prior Selling in the closing years of the century.
+ The piers supporting this tower are Norman with <a name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a>a
+ later casing, and the foundations of the nave walls belong to the same period.</p>
+ <p>Having reached its greatest glories, Canterbury began to decline, and the
+ dissolution of the two great monasteries and the demolishing of Becket's shrine must
+ have been to the city, on a much larger scale, what the sweeping away of all the
+ Shakespearean landmarks and relics from Stratford-on-Avon of to-day would imply.
+ Nevertheless the city could afford to present Queen Elizabeth with &pound;30 in a
+ scented purse when she came thither in 1564, and the fact that Canterbury remained
+ the chief centre of the authority and state of the English Church prevented the city
+ from decaying. And even if this dignity had not remained the position of the town in
+ relation to the comings and goings between England and France would have saved it
+ from any sudden fall from its opulence and greatness before the dissolution.</p>
+ <p>To touch even lightly on the subsequent history of Canterbury is not possible
+ here, but its remarkably interesting story has been woven into a connected narrative
+ by Dr. Cox, whose admirable book should be procured by all who may, by reading this
+ little sketch, feel some of the glamour which the old city has for the writer.</p>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <h2><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a><a id="CHAPTER_III"
+ name='CHAPTER_III'></a>CHAPTER III</h2>
+ <h3>THE CATHEDRAL</h3>
+ <p>From the swelling green hills that look over Canterbury the distant glimpses of
+ the Cathedral towers gleaming in that opalescent light that is the joy of a summer's
+ morning in Kent, are so hauntingly beautiful that it is hard to believe that no
+ disillusionment need be anticipated when the ancient city is entered and the great
+ church seen at close quarters in the midst of a little city whose busy streets are
+ agog with twentieth-century interests; and yet apprehension is entirely needless.
+ From St. Dunstan's Church, where Henry II. stripped himself to a shirt and cloak on
+ entering as a penitent, the road is lined with houses whose quietly picturesque
+ frontages improve as the city proper is neared, and at the end of a most pleasing
+ perspective stands the West Gate, a great stone gateway with round towers. Passing
+ through the archway, one is at <a name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a>once in the narrow,
+ jostling familiarity of the medieval St. Peter's Street. This crosses one at the arms
+ of the Stour, and continues as High Street, becoming increasingly rich in overhanging
+ storeys and curious sixteenth and seventeenth century fronts. One's eye glances
+ rapidly from side to side, until, on the left, an exceedingly narrow turning gives a
+ peep&mdash;such a peep as no other city can give unless it be Rouen&mdash;of the
+ Cathedral's western towers rising above a sumptuously enriched stone gateway framed
+ by tall, timbered houses, which nod towards one another in the neighbourly fashion of
+ old cronies. It might be that the modern pilgrim, whose course is thus arrested by
+ the vision he sees in this cleft called Mercery Lane, might have had some intention
+ of going straight through the city to St. Martin's Church outside the walls to the
+ east; but, if so, he is a strong man who resists the appeal of that narrow way
+ belonging altogether to the world of romance. He stands for a moment transfixed, and
+ then plunges into the opening, forgetful of his original purpose in the vivid reality
+ before him. He walks down the lane trodden century after century by countless
+ pilgrims and enters the Cathedral precincts <a name="Page_42"
+ id="Page_42"></a>through the weather-worn gateway, Prior Goldstone II. built between
+ 1507 and 1517.</p>
+ <p>From the archway the first near vision of the vast pile is unfolded, nearly the
+ whole of the south side being visible. Immediately opposite are the two western
+ towers, the nearer one finished in 1451 and the further rebuilt seventy years ago.
+ The heavily buttressed nave, in the same Perpendicular style, stretches away to the
+ transept, where the eye mounts up higher and higher until it rests on the clustered
+ pinnacles of the <i>campanilis Angeli</i>&mdash;- the Angel Tower, as Prior Molashe
+ by some happy inspiration chose to call the imposing feature he added to his priory
+ church. Beyond the south-west transept appears the plain Norman work of the larger
+ and more massive transept to the east, with its beautiful staircase tower built into
+ the inner angle, a part of Conrad's "glorious" choir. The remaining eastern parts of
+ the Cathedral are not visible from this point, but as one walks eastwards&mdash;the
+ other way is closed by the Archbishop's Palace&mdash;St. Anselm's Tower and Trinity
+ Chapel with its corona, or semicircular extension, successively appear. Armed even
+ with such brief information as that given in the preceding chapter, one gazes on
+ these weathered cliffs of wrought stone with quickened breath, reading into the
+ Transitional Norman work the strange story of the historic murder which brought so
+ much wealth to this spot that the Cathedral in its present form is due to little
+ else. To wipe out Becket's name completely Henry VIII. would have needed to demolish
+ the whole church.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_8" id="PLATE_8"></a> <img src="./images/plate-8.jpg"
+ alt="THE DOORWAY INTO THE TRANSEPT OF MARTYRDOM FROM THE CLOISTERS." /><br />
+ THE DOORWAY INTO THE TRANSEPT OF MARTYRDOM FROM THE CLOISTERS.<br />
+ It was through this doorway that Becket was followed by his murderers on that fatal
+ afternoon in 1170 when the winter twilight was deepening.<a name="Page_43"
+ id="Page_43"></a></p>
+ <p>The smooth turf along the south side of the Cathedral was used by the monks as a
+ lay cemetery, and the fairly extensive space to the south-east shaded by old elms was
+ their own burial-ground. All the monastic buildings were, contrary to the usual
+ custom, on the north, for having only a narrow space between the south side of their
+ church and the wall which Lanfranc built to secure the whole monastery, they
+ naturally built on their extensive piece of ground running right up to the city wall
+ to the north. Rounding the east end of the Cathedral, therefore, one finds under its
+ ample shadow the remains of many of the domestic offices of the great priory. The
+ great hall, with its kitchen and offices, is now part of the house of one of the
+ prebendaries, and is not accessible to the public, but to the west are the
+ interesting ruins of the infirmary. This <a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a>was a
+ long building with aisles, having a chapel opening out of it to the east, so that the
+ sick brethren while lying in their beds could listen to the services. The south
+ arcade of this chapel, consisting of four Norman arches with an ivy-grown clerestory,
+ is still standing, and there are also some arches of the south side of the hall still
+ showing the orange-pink colour produced on the stone by the disastrous fire in 1174,
+ when Conrad's choir was reduced to a ruin. Adjoining the western end of the infirmary
+ hall, and now a part of the Cathedral, is the beautiful Transitional-Norman treasury
+ built on to St. Andrew's Chapel. Going to the right through a passage called the Dark
+ Entry, one has the site of the prior's lodging on the right and on the left the
+ infirmary cloister, and north of it the smaller dormitories of the monks. This
+ passage-way leads through the vaulted Prior's Gate to the Green Court, a wide grassy
+ space shaded by great limes and other trees. Framed between the spreading branches
+ appears one of the most perfect groupings of the Angel Steeple with the piled-up
+ roofs of the library, chapter house, and north-west transept as steps leading up to
+ the vast tower, whose presence has an uplifting effect <a name="Page_45"
+ id="Page_45"></a>on the mind, scarcely equalled by the solemn immensity of the nave
+ when one first enters&mdash;but the interior must wait for a little, while the
+ remaining portions of the precincts are seen.</p>
+ <p>Adjoining the Prior's Gate to the east is the building now used as the Deanery. It
+ was built by Prior Goldstone in late Perpendicular times as a guest-house for the
+ reception of strangers, but has been much altered since that time. At the north-west
+ corner of the court is a very fine Norman gateway, now surrounded by the modern
+ buildings of the King's School, and a little to the right is a Norman staircase,
+ which by the goodness of Providence was allowed to remain when other destruction was
+ in progress. This beautiful and unique example of a staircase of this early period is
+ the most remarkable feature of the monastic remains. Beyond the Green Court Gate
+ stood the almonry and a granary, and south of these buildings was the Archbishop's
+ Palace, so ruined in Puritan times that the remains of a gateway in Palace Street is
+ practically all that can now be seen. The present palace is quite modern. Coming back
+ to the Cathedral, the remarkably picturesque little circular Lavatory Tower standing
+ on late Norman open arches is <a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a>noticeable in its
+ shadowy seclusion among the lofty walls of the choir chapels. This is generally known
+ as the Baptistery, but the name only began to be used when the font Bishop Warner
+ presented to the Cathedral was placed there. In the little garden in front of the
+ Lavatory Tower are two Roman columns brought from Reculver more than a century ago
+ when the church there became a ruin. West of this tower is the library, standing on
+ part of the site of the great dormitory, and opening on to the cloisters is the
+ chapter house, commenced in 1304 by Prior Estria and finished in 1378 by Prior
+ Chillenden. The windows at the east and west ends are the largest in the
+ Cathedral.</p>
+ <p>The great cloister, like the chapter house, largely owes its present appearance to
+ Prior Chillenden, and is of exceedingly beautiful Perpendicular work with a splendid
+ roof of lierne vaulting. Part of the south walk, with the doorway into the north
+ transept&mdash;the successor to the Norman one through which Becket passed to his
+ death&mdash;is shown in Mr. Biscombe Gardner's drawing facing <a href="#Page_43">page
+ 43</a>. If one enters the Cathedral from this point, especially if it should be in
+ the twilight of a gloomy day, the atmosphere of the murder seems to be all about one,
+ notwithstanding the rebuilding at a later period of the actual scene, but the
+ historic entrance is by the south porch facing the great gate of the priory, and as
+ it is still the usual place of entry this short account of the interior will begin at
+ that point.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_9" id="PLATE_9"></a> <img src="./images/plate-9.jpg"
+ alt="THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE IN CANTERBURY." /><br />
+ THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE IN CANTERBURY.<br />
+ This picturesque house of the Franciscans, who came to the town in 1220, stands on a
+ branch of the Stour near Stour Street. <a name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></a></p>
+ <p>The porch belongs to the great period of rebuilding under Prior Chillenden, and,
+ with its double row of canopied niches containing statues, is a beautiful feature,
+ even with the central space which contained a representation of the martyrdom of
+ Becket still vacant since the days of Henry VIII. There is in the first view of a
+ vast Cathedral nave something almost overpowering in its sense of ordered beauty. It
+ may be that average lives are so planless, so haphazard and without order that an
+ achievement of such magnitude representing years of labour and concentrated thought
+ in steadily following out a preconceived plan cannot fail to be a tremendous contrast
+ to the smallness and pettiness of the majority&mdash;a contrast so great that it is
+ mentally and spiritually a glimpse of the world of new possibilities attainable when
+ once the feverish clinging to the ideals of the totem post is abandoned. This vast <a
+ name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a>nave, reminiscent in many ways of Winchester, but far
+ more satisfying, is generally bathed in a cool, greenish light, and is, in reality, a
+ magnificent vestibule to the crowded interest beyond the transept. The effect of
+ emptiness existing to-day is vastly different to what the pilgrims used to gaze upon
+ while waiting their turn to be sprinkled with holy water, for before the Reformation
+ and the complete sweeping away of the enrichments of Roman Catholic times the roof
+ and walls were brilliant with paintings, the windows glowed with the warm colour of
+ medieval glass, sumptuous hangings were suspended in many places and the altars
+ twinkling with lighted candles added much gilding and colour to the aisles. All this
+ barbarous crowding of colour and ornament, all this splendour of a ritual that
+ appealed to an age capable of stilling the voice of conscience with an absolution
+ obtainable for a few pence has passed away, but the vast building remains to tell of
+ the reality of endeavour of one side of monastic life.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_10" id="PLATE_10"></a> <img src="./images/plate-10.jpg"
+ alt="THE PICTURESQUE GABLED HOUSES OF THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS." /><br />
+ THE PICTURESQUE GABLED HOUSES OF THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS.<br />
+ The houses are reflected in the Stour just by King's Bridge, which joins the High
+ Street to St. Peter's Street.<a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a></p>
+ <p>Across the great arch opening into the base of the tower is the supporting arch
+ inserted by Prior Goldstone II., who, as already stated, built the Angel Steeple
+ above the roof-line where it had been left by Chillenden. The arch has been called a
+ disfigurement, and as it was not originally intended such an opinion may be
+ justifiable, and yet the beauty of the reticulated stonework and the consummate skill
+ which conceived the bold simplicity of design is so satisfying that it is scarcely
+ possible to wish that it were absent. Beneath this flying arch appears the splendid
+ western screen, approached by the flight of steps necessitated by the crypt or
+ undercroft, for, being on perfectly level ground, there would have been no need for
+ this unique feature. Among the monuments in the nave aisles those on the south
+ include the memorial to Dean Farrar, who is buried in the great cloister, and William
+ Broughton, Bishop of Sydney and Adelaide, who was a scholar at the King's School. In
+ the north aisle the Tudor monument to Sir T. Hales showing his burial at sea is
+ curious and picturesque, and other memorials are to Charles I.'s organist, Orlando
+ Gibbons, and to the Archbishops Boyes and Sumner.</p>
+ <p>The north-west transept, on the left as the steps to the choir are ascended, is
+ the scene of Becket's martyrdom, and the vergers show the traditional spot where he
+ fell. From the opposite transept, steps lead down to the undercroft, and <a
+ name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>also up to the south choir aisle&mdash;the way the
+ pilgrims approached the shrine of St. Thomas. Also opening from the south-west
+ transept is St. Michael's or the Warrior's Chapel, as it is now popularly called. In
+ the illustration facing <a href="#Page_30">p. 30</a>, the tomb of Lady Margaret
+ Holland and her two husbands, John Beaufort, Earl of Somerset, and Thomas, Duke of
+ Clarence, is shown occupying the centre of the chapel, but it just misses a more
+ interesting, if much less beautiful, tomb, that of Stephen Langton, the courageous
+ Archbishop who took such a leading part in forcing John to sign Magna Charta. The
+ plain sarcophagus is partly within and partly outside the chapel, for when it was
+ rebuilt in the fourteenth century it was extended so much to the east that it became
+ necessary either to move Langton's tomb or else to make an arch in the wall, and the
+ latter course was taken, with the curious result still to be seen. An astonishing
+ contrast to the clear-sighted action of this Norman Archbishop was the attitude of
+ Archbishop Howley (1828-1848) whose bitter hostility to the Reform Bill in 1831 so
+ raised the anger of the people of Canterbury that they greeted his next arrival in
+ the city with showers of stones and rotten eggs.<a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a>
+ In the midst of a howling mob the archiepiscopal carriage slowly struggled to the
+ Deanery, bearing in it the amiable Churchman who was convinced that the Reform Bill
+ was "mischievous in its tendency, and extremely dangerous to the fabric of the
+ constitution." Such words are deeply interesting at the present day, when many people
+ think they see, in progress on the same lines, dangers of an equally unfounded
+ order.</p>
+ <p>Passing along the south aisle of the choir, one gradually sees the whole of the
+ elaborately devised eastern parts of the Cathedral as they were reconstructed by
+ William of Sens and his English successor. The arcades of alternately circular and
+ octagonal pillars have richly carved foliated capitals, and there is a lightness in
+ form and a profusion of carving that tells of the coming of the Gothic
+ style&mdash;indeed, so far in advance of the plain Norman work of Conrad is the
+ present choir that the change to pure Early English is slight in comparison. In its
+ great length this choir is unique, and in the lowness of its vaulted roof is also
+ unusual, but this is accounted for by the undercroft beneath. From the centre of the
+ choir the remarkable inward bend of the walls, necessitated through the determination
+ not to <a name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a>alter the plan of the Trinity Chapel so
+ hallowed by the memory of the Blessed St. Thomas, is very noticeable: to some extent
+ it helps to give one an impression of the great length of the whole choir, with the
+ chapel beyond. The eastern transepts and chapels still have their apsidal chapels
+ almost as they were built by Conrad.</p>
+ <p>Ascending some more steps, the modern pilgrim reaches Trinity Chapel, where his
+ eyes, instead of falling upon a shrine encrusted with jewels and precious metals,
+ merely look between the pillars upon an empty space. A vacant spot, however, can be
+ eloquent enough, and to those who have read Chaucer's "Canterbury Tales" or the late
+ Mr. Snowden Ward's "Canterbury Pilgrimages," if they have gone no farther in the
+ study of this fascinating cult, the site of the shrine whose fame was European is
+ able to give almost as deep a thrill as any experienced by the wayworn folk of the
+ Middle Ages.</p>
+ <p>By going closer and examining the pavement, a shallow groove appears marking the
+ exact position of the base of the shrine. This was worn by the endless stream of
+ pilgrims as they knelt in ecstasy before the object their eyes had longed to feast
+ upon. To the west is a fine thirteenth-century <a name="Page_53"
+ id="Page_53"></a>mosaic pavement similar to that in the Confessor's Chapel at
+ Westminster Abbey, to which it is very fitting to compare this chapel, for if it is
+ not quite a "Chapel of the Kings" it has a King&mdash;Henry IV.&mdash;and a king's
+ eldest son&mdash;the Black Prince&mdash;on either side, and after Westminster Abbey
+ there was scarcely a more sacred spot in the kingdom than this.</p>
+ <p>It was fitting that Henry IV. should be buried here, for he had taken a
+ considerable amount of interest in the rebuilding of the nave, and had been liberal
+ in his financial aid. The effigies of Henry and his second wife, Joan of Navarre, are
+ believed to be faithful representations. Of the tomb of Edward the Black Prince, if
+ space permitted, much could be said, for it is a magnificent piece of work apart from
+ the historical interest that attaches to the soldier Prince, whose two great
+ victories at Cr&eacute;cy and Poitiers have thrilled every English schoolboy during
+ all the subsequent centuries. The strong iron railing has prevented any damage to the
+ bronze or latten effigy, and except for the tarnishing and general deterioration of
+ gilding and paint, one looks on the monument as it was erected in the days of
+ chivalry. All the details of this tomb had been arranged by the<a name="Page_54"
+ id="Page_54"></a> Black Prince himself, and it was he who chose the Norman-French
+ inscription all can plainly read to-day. Above the tomb is suspended a flat canopy of
+ wood with an embattled moulding, and on the underside a much decayed painting of the
+ Trinity, if one may call it such when the Dove is not represented. On the beam from
+ which the canopy is suspended are hung the shield, helmet, velvet coat, brass
+ gauntlets, and empty sword sheath which are the survivals of two complete suits, one
+ for peace, and one for war, which were carried at the funeral as the Prince had
+ ordered in his will.</p>
+ <p>The eastern extension of the chapel is called Becket's Crown, a name tradition
+ associates with the preservation in this chapel of a portion of St. Thomas's skull.
+ One window contains old glass, and in the centre of the floor is placed the chair of
+ Purbeck marble in which the Archbishops are enthroned. As it is no longer considered
+ as old as the days of Augustine the title St. Augustine's Chair must be regarded as a
+ figure of speech.</p>
+ <p>By the most marvellous good fortune the wonderful series of windows in Trinity
+ Chapel, illustrating the many cures wrought at the Shrine of St. Thomas, have come
+ down to the present time almost unharmed, and this magnificent range <a
+ name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a>of thirteenth-century glass is finer than anything
+ else of its period in England. This glass is all prior to 1220, and without it there
+ would have been no representation of the first shrine at all. The colour in these
+ windows is all subservient to the careful drawing of the pictures in the medallions,
+ but in the north choir aisle there are some windows almost of the same period where
+ the colour is as splendid as in any of the early windows at Chartres. For any
+ description of the tombs of the archbishops there is, unfortunately, no space here.
+ In the splendid crypt, besides the interest of the various periods of Norman and
+ Transitional work, there is the rich Perpendicular screenwork of the Chapel of Our
+ Lady of the Undercroft, and the Huguenot Chapel in what was the Black Prince's
+ Chantry. In Tudor times the whole of the undercroft was given up to the French
+ Protestant refugees, who, besides worshipping there, set up their looms in this
+ hallowed portion of the Cathedral where the martyr was laid until his translation in
+ 1220 and where Henry II. had passed the night after his severe penance. This very
+ short description of such a building must be regarded as a mere introduction to the
+ study of a vast subject, for in the space available nothing more is remotely
+ possible.</p>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <h2><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a><a id="CHAPTER_IV"
+ name='CHAPTER_IV'></a>CHAPTER IV</h2>
+ <h3>THE CITY</h3>
+ <p>A walled city generally holds more easily that elusive quality of romance for
+ which the intelligent mind so often hungers than a town that has long ago discarded
+ its old tower-studded girdle. And among the half-dozen or more English towns still
+ possessed of their old mural defences Canterbury holds a high place, because within
+ its walls there are still, in spite of railways and motors and the horrors of
+ twentieth-century advertising, a hundred byways and nooks where the atmosphere of
+ Elizabethan and pre-Reformation England still lurks. The wall itself does not stand
+ out with the splendid completeness of York or Conway, and on the western side it has
+ vanished altogether, while of the seven or eight gates, one only&mdash;the West
+ Gate&mdash;has been saved; yet, while walking in the narrow, picturesque streets, it
+ is difficult to forget that Canterbury is a walled city. Until well into last century
+ all the gates were standing; but one by one these ornaments were destroyed by the
+ city until one only was left, and even that would have been wantonly sacrificed to
+ facilitate the entry of some circus caravans when, in 1850, Wombwell's menagerie
+ visited the city! This vandal showman actually dared to request the Corporation to
+ demolish the gate on account of the difficulty of getting his procession through the
+ low arch. This is hard to believe, but it is infinitely more difficult to understand
+ the aboriginal minds of some of the members of the Corporation when the records
+ unblushingly reveal that the showman's preposterous request not only found both a
+ proposer and a seconder, but that the votes were equally divided on the matter, and
+ it was only the Mayor's casting vote which has preserved for the city its noble
+ entry. Such a searchlight as this, throwing into dazzling clearness the almost entire
+ lack of appreciation for its historic buildings possessed by the controllers of the
+ city must make one grateful for the happy chances which have permitted so much that
+ is old and picturesque to survive.</p>
+ <p class="ctr"><a name="PLATE_11" id="PLATE_11"></a> <img src="./images/plate-11.jpg"
+ alt="WESTGATE, CANTERBURY, FROM WITHIN." /><br />
+ WESTGATE, CANTERBURY, FROM WITHIN.<br />
+ This is the only survivor of the gates which studded the medi&aelig;val walls of the
+ city.]<a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a></p>
+ <p>From the East Station there extends as far as <a name="Page_58"
+ id="Page_58"></a>the site of the old Riding Gate a well-preserved length of the wall
+ with semicircular towers at intervals, and from opposite Lady Wootton's Green to St.
+ Mary's Church, standing close to the site of North Gate, lengths of the wall, with a
+ tower at intervals, form thrillingly medieval foregrounds for the Cathedral towers.
+ In Pound Lane the wall continues in a furtive and rather desultory fashion until it
+ ends at the West Gate. Opposite Lady Wootton's Green there still remain indications
+ of a narrow postern, which is generally accepted as that through which Queen Bertha
+ was wont to pass on her way to her devotions at St. Martin's Church. This, however,
+ presupposes that the portion of the wall immediately surrounding this particular
+ point is Roman or very Early Saxon, and also that the walls of the city occupied the
+ same position, at least as far as this point, as those built at the end of the
+ twelfth century.</p>
+ <p>Mr. T. Godfrey Faussett's plan of Roman Canterbury appears to carry the wall just
+ as far as this point, and then turns at an acute angle towards the south side of the
+ Cathedral. Following the direction Queen Bertha would have taken brings one to the
+ great gateway of St. Augustine's Abbey, the Benedictine monastery <a name="Page_59"
+ id="Page_59"></a>founded by Augustine on the land given for that purpose by
+ Ethelbert. It was at first dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, and the original
+ buildings were finished in 613. Having become the place of burial for the Kings of
+ Kent and the Archbishops, the Abbey quite overshadowed the Priory of Christ Church,
+ until in 758 Archbishop Cuthbert was secretly buried within the claustral confines of
+ his own priory. At the Dissolution Henry converted the stately buildings into a
+ palace, so that the royal visits, which had been of no infrequent occurrence in the
+ days of monastic hospitality, continued; and while the lordly pile passed through the
+ hands of various owners, Elizabeth, Charles I., and Charles II. paid visits on
+ various occasions.</p>
+ <p>A century ago, when appreciation of the architecture of the dead centuries when
+ Englishmen built with superlative skill had ebbed to its lowest, the Abbey had sunk
+ to inconceivably debased uses. The monastic kitchen had been converted into a
+ public-house, and the great gateway&mdash;the finest structural relic of the
+ Abbey&mdash;had become the entrance to a brewery, while cock-fighting took place in
+ the state bedroom above. The pilgrims' guest hall, now the college dining-hall, had
+ become a dancing-hall, and the <a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a>ground, unoccupied
+ by buildings, soil hallowed by the memories of so many saintly lives and associated
+ with the momentous days when England was being released from the toils of pagan
+ ignorance became known as "the Old Palace Tea-gardens." The popular mind had
+ seemingly forgotten the original uses of the place they were desecrating with
+ fireworks and variety shows.</p>
+ <p>At last, in 1844, Mr. Beresford Hope rescued the half-destroyed remnants of the
+ abbey-palace, and through his generosity the present missionary college was founded,
+ and the buildings restored or reconstructed. A more happy idea could scarcely have
+ been suggested than that of associating the abbey founded by the first missionary of
+ Christianity to England with modern efforts to carry the light into the dark places
+ of the earth. The much-restored gateway, built by Abbot Fyndon at the beginning of
+ the fourteenth century, the guest-hall, and part of the memorial chapel, are the
+ chief portions of the old structures incorporated into the buildings that surround
+ three sides of the college quadrangle. Standing apart to the south is one of the huge
+ walls of the nave of the abbey church, and to the east are the extensive excavations
+ of the east end of <a name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a>the crypt and other
+ fascinatingly early remains of the historic churches mentioned in an earlier chapter
+ (<a href="#Page_17">p. 17</a>).</p>
+ <p>Leaving the Abbey grounds, and continuing to the east, one reaches in a few
+ minutes the little church of St. Martin set on the knoll to which Queen Bertha
+ directed her steps. It is, however, a disappointingly familiar type of Early English
+ village church to the casual glance, and until the fabric and the remarkable font
+ have been examined and discussed in the light of modern scientific arch&aelig;ology
+ it is difficult to appreciate the hoary antiquity of at least parts of the structure.
+ To understand the indications of the Saxon, or possibly Roman, work in the fabric,
+ and to know the reasons for considering the font a relic of Saxon times, it is
+ scarcely possible to find a better instructor than Canon Routledge, whose little book
+ is all one can desire.</p>
+ <p>When the Cathedral, the Abbey, and St. Martin's Church have been visited, it is
+ too often thought that Canterbury has yielded up all her treasures, but this is an
+ amazingly mistaken idea. There still remain to be seen the Castle, the walls, the old
+ inns, the many interesting examples of early domestic architecture, the remains of
+ the lesser religious houses and hospitals, a wonderful array of interesting <a
+ name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a>churches, and the excellent museum. Of the Castle the
+ great Norman keep, completed about 1125, still stands, having been allowed to remain
+ because the walls were found to be too hard to easily destroy; but up to the time of
+ writing the Corporation has not purchased the immense shell, and it therefore remains
+ a storage place for the coal of the adjoining gasworks. The remains of the buildings
+ of the Black, or Preaching, Friars, and those of the Grey Friars, who belonged to the
+ rule of St. Francis, are on islands formed by the Stour, and are marked in nearly
+ every plan of the town. The hospitals include that of St. John the Baptist in North
+ Gate Street, Eastbridge Hospital in St. Peter Street, and the Poor Priests' Hospital
+ near Stour Street. Outside the city, at Harbledown, is the interesting old Hospital
+ of St. Nicholas, a home for lepers, who were separately housed.</p>
+ <p>Of the churches it would be easy to write a great deal, but there is merely space
+ to point out that the only one lacking in interest is All Saints' in High Street. At
+ St. Dunstan's the head of Sir Thomas More is preserved in a vault, but it is never
+ possible to see it, and one must be content with the picturesque brick gateway of the
+ Roper house in St. Dunstan's Street.<a name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a></p>
+ <table summary="Plan 2">
+ <tr>
+ <th>KEY TO NUMBERS.</th>
+ <th>PLAN OF CANTERBURY CASTLE.</th>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>
+ <ol>
+ <li>Door to Cloisters.</li>
+ <li>Door In Cloisters.</li>
+ <li>Dean's (or Lady) Chapel.</li>
+ <li>St. Michael's Chapel.</li>
+ <li>Baptistery.</li>
+ <li>Library (Howleian).</li>
+ <li>Treasury.</li>
+ <li>Chapel of King Henry IV.</li>
+ <li>Arundel Tower (N.W.).</li>
+ <li>Dunstan Tower (S.W.).</li>
+ <li>Entrance to French Church.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Benson.</li>
+ <li>Bishop Parry.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Sumner.</li>
+ <li>Sir T. Hales.</li>
+ <li>Colonel Stuart.</li>
+ <li>Dr. Beaney.</li>
+ <li>Dean Fotherbye.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Chicheley.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Bourchier.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Kemp.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Sudbury.</li>
+ <li>St. Dunstan (site).</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Tait.</li>
+ <li>King Henry IV.</li>
+ <li>Edward, the Black Prince.</li>
+ <li>Becket's Shrine (site).</li>
+ <li>Cardinal Pole.</li>
+ <li>Unknown.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Mepham.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Winchelsey.</li>
+ <li>Henry de Estria.</li>
+ <li>Stephen Langton.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop's ancient Chair.</li>
+ <li>Memorial to Dean Farrar.</li>
+ <li>Wm. Broughton, Bishop of Sydney and Adelaide.</li>
+ <li>Archbishop Boyes.</li>
+ <li>Tomb of Dean Farrar.</li>
+ <li>Tomb of Archbishop Temple.</li>
+ <li>Two columns from Reculver.</li>
+ </ol>
+ </td>
+ <td><a name="PLAN_2" id="PLAN_2"></a><a href="./images/plan-2.png"><img
+ src="./images/plan-2_th.jpg" alt="PLAN OF CANTERBURY CASTLE." /></a></td>
+ </tr>
+ </table>
+ <hr class="full" />
+ <h2><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a><a id="INDEX" name='INDEX'></a>INDEX</h2>
+ <p>Alphege, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a><br />
+ Angel Steeple, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_48">48</a><br />
+ Anglo-Saxon invasions, <a href="#Page_12">12</a><br />
+ Archbishop's Palace, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a><br />
+ Augustine, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Becket, Thomas &agrave;, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_23">23-28</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a><br />
+ Bertha (Ethelbert's Queen), <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a><br />
+ Black Prince, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_55">55</a><br />
+ Boyes, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+ Bret, Richard le, <a href="#Page_29">29</a><br />
+ Broughton, Bishop, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+ <br />
+ C&aelig;sar, Julius, <a href="#Page_10">10</a><br />
+ Canute, <a href="#Page_20">20</a><br />
+ Castle, the, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br />
+ Cathedral, the, <a href="#Page_40">40-55</a><br />
+ Charles I., <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br />
+ Charles II., <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br />
+ Chartres, windows at, <a href="#Page_55">55</a><br />
+ Chillenden, Prior, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a><br />
+ Clarence, Thomas, Duke of, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ Conrad's choir, <a href="#Page_34">34</a><br />
+ Conrad, Prior, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_52">52</a><br />
+ Corbeuil, Archbishop de, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+ Cuthbert, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Dane John, the, <a href="#Page_10">10</a><br />
+ Danes, the, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a><br />
+ David I. of Scotland, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+ Dover, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Eadbald, <a href="#Page_18">18</a><br />
+ Eadmer, <a href="#Page_21">21</a><br />
+ Elizabeth, Queen, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br />
+ Ernulph, Prior, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+ Estria, Prior, <a href="#Page_46">46</a><br />
+ Ethelbert, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Farrar, Dean, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+ Fitzurse, Reginald, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><br />
+ Foliot, Gilbert, <a href="#Page_33">33</a><br />
+ Fyndon, Abbot, <a href="#Page_60">60</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Gates of Canterbury, the, <a href="#Page_56">56-58</a><br />
+ Gibbons, Orlando, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+ Goldstone II., Prior, <a href="#Page_48">48</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Hales, Sir T., tomb of, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+ Harbledown, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_62">62</a><br />
+ Hengist and Horsa, <a href="#Page_13">13</a><br />
+ Henry I., <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+ Henry II., <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a><br />
+ Henry III., <a href="#Page_37">37</a><br />
+ Henry IV., tomb of, <a href="#Page_53">53</a><br />
+ Henry VIII., <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br />
+ Holland, Lady Margaret, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ Hospitals, medieval, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br />
+ Howley, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ Huguenot Chapel, <a href="#Page_55">55</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Joan of Navarre, <a href="#Page_53">53</a><br />
+ John, King, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ <br />
+ King's school, the, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Lady Wootton's Green, <a href="#Page_58">58</a><br />
+ Lanfranc, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a><br />
+ Langton, Stephen, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ Living, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_20">20</a><br />
+ Luidhard, Bishop, <a href="#Page_13">13</a><br />
+ Lymne, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Magna Charta, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ Mercery Lane, <a href="#Page_41">41</a><br />
+ Molashe, Prior, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a><br />
+ More, Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br />
+ Moreville, Hugh de, <a href="#Page_27">27</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Norman staircase, <a href="#Page_45">45</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Pilgrims' Way, the, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_34">34</a><br />
+ Prior's Gate, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Reculver, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a><br />
+ Reform Bill, the, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a><br />
+ Religious houses, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br />
+ Richborough, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br />
+ Roman Canterbury, <a href="#Page_10">10-12</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a><br />
+ <br />
+ St. Augustine's Abbey, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58-60</a><br />
+ St. Dunstan, Church of, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br />
+ <br />
+ St. Martin, Church of, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_58">58</a><br />
+ St. Mildred, Church of, <a href="#Page_19">19</a><br />
+ St. Pancras, Church of, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a><br />
+ Salisbury, John of, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><br />
+ Sandwich, <a href="#Page_23">23</a><br />
+ Selling, Prior, <a href="#Page_38">38</a><br />
+ Somerset, John Beaufort, Earl of, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ Stanley, Dean, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a
+ href="#Page_30">30</a><br />
+ Sumner, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Thorn, William, <a href="#Page_17">17</a><br />
+ Tracy, William de, <a href="#Page_25">25</a><br />
+ <br />
+ Walls of the city, <a href="#Page_56">56-59</a><br />
+ Warrior's Chapel, the, <a href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+ West gate, the, <a href="#Page_56">56-57</a><br />
+ William of Sens, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a><br />
+ William Rufus, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+ William the Englishman, <a href="#Page_35">35</a><br />
+ </p>
+ <p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Beautiful Britain, by Gordon Home
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Beautiful Britain
+
+Author: Gordon Home
+
+Release Date: October 29, 2004 [eBook #13890]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEAUTIFUL BRITAIN***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Ted Garvin, Victoria Woosley, and the Project Gutenberg
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team (www.pgdp.net)
+
+
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+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
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+ See 13890-h.htm or 13890-h.zip:
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/3/8/9/13890/13890-h/13890-h.htm)
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+
+
+
+
+
+BEAUTIFUL BRITAIN
+
+Canterbury
+
+by
+
+GORDON HOME
+
+MCMXI
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+ "When that Aprillé with his showerés soote [= sweet]
+ The drought of March hath piercéd to the roote,
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ "Then longen folk to go on pilgrimages,
+ And palmers for to seeken strangé strands,
+ To ferme [=ancient] halwes [=shrines] knowthe [=known] in sundry lands
+ And specially from every shirés end
+ Of Engéland, to Canterbury they wend,
+ The holy, blissful martyr for to seek
+ That them hath holpen when that they were sick."
+
+ CHAUCER: _Canterbury Tales_.
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+ CHAPTER
+ I. THE PILGRIM'S APPROACH TO THE CITY
+ II. THE STORY OF CANTERBURY
+ III. THE CATHEDRAL
+ IV. THE CITY
+ INDEX
+
+
+ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+ PLATE
+
+ 1. THE NAVE OF CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL (Frontispiece)
+ 2. CHRIST CHURCH GATE
+ 3. THE CATHEDRAL FROM NORTH-WEST
+ 4. THE "ANGEL" OR "BELL HARRY" TOWER AND THE LAVATORY TOWER OF THE
+ CATHEDRAL
+ 5. THE CHAPEL OF "OUR LADY" IN THE UNDERCROFT OF THE CATHEDRAL
+ 6. THE WARRIOR'S CHAPEL
+ 7. THE MARTYRDOM IN THE NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT
+ 8. THE DOORWAY FROM THE CLOISTERS TO THE MARTYRDOM
+ 9. THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE IN CANTERBURY
+ 10. THE HOUSE OF THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS
+ 11. WESTGATE CANTERBURY FROM WITHIN
+ 12. THE NORMAN STAIRCASE TO THE KING'S SCHOOL (On the cover)
+
+
+
+[Illustration: PLAN OF CANTERBURY, SHOWING THE CHIEF STREETS AND THE
+ MOST INTERESTING BUILDINGS.
+REFERENCE
+ A. Mercery Lane.
+ B. St. Peter's Church.
+ C. All Saints' Church.
+ D. St. Margaret's Church.
+ E. Poor Priests' Hospital.
+ F. St. Margarets Street.
+ G. Green Court.
+ H. Archbishops' Palace.
+ J. Norman Staircase.
+ K. St. George's Church.
+ L. Site Of Roman Gate.
+ M. Greyfriars.
+ N. Christ Church Gate.
+ O. St. Alphege's Church.
+ P. St. Mary Bredin Church]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE PILGRIM'S APPROACH TO THE CITY
+
+
+It was on April 24, 1538, that a writ of summons was sent forth in the
+name of Henry VIII., "To thee, Thomas Becket, some time Archbishop of
+Canterbury"--who had then been dead for 368 years--"to appear within
+thirty days to answer to a charge of treason, contumacy, and rebellion
+against his sovereign lord, King Henry II." But the days passed, and no
+spirit having stirred the venerated bones of the wonder-working saint,
+on June 10 judgment was given in favour of Henry, and it was decreed
+that the Archbishop's bones were to be burnt, and his world-famous
+shrine overlaid with gold and sparkling with jewels was to be
+forfeited to the Crown. Further than this went the sentence, for
+Thomas of Canterbury was to be a saint no longer, and his name and
+memory were to be wiped out. The remains were not burned, but
+throughout the land every statue, wall-painting, and window to the
+said Thomas Becket was rigorously searched out and destroyed, and from
+every record his name was carefully erased. And so it came about that
+the year 1538 saw the last pilgrimage to the shrine of St. Thomas the
+Martyr.
+
+A growing incredulity had prepared the way for this wave of
+iconoclasm, and the shrine once destroyed ended for ever this first
+phase of the Canterbury pilgrimages. It might have been truly thought,
+if anyone ever gave a moment to such speculations a century ago, when
+Englishmen cared little for the landmarks of their island story, that
+the last pilgrim who would ever wend his way along the old road to
+Canterbury had died in the sixteenth century, and yet how profoundly
+untrue would that impression have been in the light of the new
+enthusiasm for the site of the shrine! A considerable literature on
+the Pilgrims' Way from Winchester has already sprung up, and this
+little book is itself a souvenir for the pilgrim to carry away as
+evidence of the journey he has made, provided he cares to write
+inside the cover his name, the date of his visit, and the two words
+"at Canterbury."
+
+Now, I do not disguise the fact that many of the twentieth-century
+pilgrims are not possessed of the true spirit of the devotee, and
+instead of approaching the object of their journey by the old-time
+way, along the beautiful hills of Surrey and Kent, they use the iron
+road which rushes them all unprepared into the city of the
+saint-martyr. But who will maintain that all those who formed the
+motley throng of the medieval pilgrimages came with their minds
+properly attuned, and who is prepared to say that because the majority
+of modern pilgrims consummate their aim by using the convenience of
+the railway they are less devout than Chaucer's merchant,
+serjeant-at-law, doctor of physic, and the rest who rode on
+horseback--the most convenient, rapid, and comfortable method of
+travel then available?
+
+There is, however, a material disadvantage suffered by those who use
+the railway, in that they miss the first view of the Cathedral city
+set in the midst of soft-swelling eocene hills, which comes as the
+first stage of the gradual unfolding of the tragic story. The
+lukewarm pilgrim should therefore remember that he will add vastly to
+the richness of his impressions if he deserts his train at Selling or
+Chartham and walks the rest of the way over Harbledown, where he will
+see the little city of the Middle Ages encircled with its ancient wall
+and crowned by the towers of its cathedral very much as did the
+cosmopolitan groups of travel-soiled men and women who for century
+after century feasted their eyes from the selfsame spot.
+
+[Illustration: CHRIST CHURCH GATEWAY, CANTERBURY.
+This beautiful entrance to the Cathedral precincts was built between
+1507 and 1517. The richly sculptured stone has weathered exceedingly.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+THE STORY OF CANTERBURY
+
+
+It would be a mistake to imagine that it solely was due to that bloody
+deed perpetrated on a certain December afternoon back in Norman times
+that Canterbury occupies a place of such pre-eminence in English
+history, for the city was ancient before the days of Thomas of
+Canterbury; and in this short chapter it is the writer's endeavour to
+indicate the position of that tragic occurrence in the chronology of
+the former Kentish capital.
+
+The earliest people who have left evidence of their existence near
+Canterbury belong to the Palæolithic Age; but as it is not known
+whether this remote prehistoric population occupied the actual site,
+or even whether the valley may not have then been a salt-water creek,
+it is wiser in this brief sketch to pass over these primitive people
+and the lake-dwellers who, after a considerable interval, were
+possibly their successors, and come to the surer ground of history.
+This brings us to the early Roman invasions of Britain and Julius
+Cæsar's description of the people of Kent, whose civilization he found
+on a higher level than in the other parts he penetrated. He described
+them as being little different in their manner of living from the
+Gauls, whose houses were built of planks and willow-branches, roofed
+with thatch, and were large and circular in form, but he adds:
+
+ All the Britons dye themselves with woad, which gives them a
+ bluish colour, and so makes them very dreadful in battle. They
+ have long hair, and shave all the body except the head and
+ upper lip.
+
+These people, owning allegiance to various chiefs and living in camps
+or villages defended by earthen ramparts, were attacked by the Roman
+expeditions which invaded Britain in the opening years of the
+Christian Era, and there is evidence for believing that there was a
+British settlement of considerable importance on the site of
+Canterbury. Of this there remains a lofty artificial mound, now known
+as the Dane John--another form of the familiar donjon. The Romans
+called it Durovernum, a name perhaps derived from the British
+Derwhern, and although their historians are curiously silent in
+regard to the place there cannot be any doubt that the town rose to
+great importance in the later years of the four centuries of the Roman
+occupation of Britain. A glance at a map of the Roman roads in Kent
+shows Durovernum as a centre for five great ways leading from the
+coast towns of Portus Lemanis (Lymne), Portus Dubris (Dover), Portus
+Ritupis (Richborough, near Sandwich), Regulbium (Reculver), and also
+the Isle of Thanet, and from this important centre the Watling Street
+ran straight to Londinium. These roads all converge upon the spot
+where the River Stour became a tidal estuary and where it was
+fordable, and all who arrived or departed from the ports nearest to
+Gaul would therefore of necessity pass that way. Another indication of
+the size of the town is found in the five Roman burial-places
+discovered close to Canterbury, and if anything else were needed it is
+only necessary to look at the walls of St. Augustine's Abbey and many
+other buildings of the Middle Ages to see the large quantities of
+Roman material then available. Wherever any excavation has taken place
+in the heart of the present city, the foundations of Roman buildings
+with tesselated pavements and quantities of pottery, small objects of
+domestic use, and coins have been brought to light. These remains are
+all far beneath the present surface, a most significant fact in
+relation to the transition period between Roman and Saxon Canterbury.
+
+The Romans having finally abandoned Britain early in the fifth
+century, the invasions of the Anglo-Saxons began to take a permanent
+form, and the Jutes gained possession of the south-eastern corner of
+England. During the period of struggle between the rival groups of
+invaders Durovernum must have been entirely abandoned by the Britons,
+and the conquerors, having reduced the city to a shapeless ruin,
+appear to have allowed it to become over-grown to such an extent that
+when, after a lapse of perhaps a whole century, the town was rebuilt,
+no attempt was made to dig down to the former surface. The new
+buildings therefore arose with their foundations some feet above the
+original level of the Romano-British city. So complete was the gap
+between the destroyed Durovernum and the Saxon town which eventually
+grew up that men had had time to forget the old name, and, finding it
+necessary to invent one, called it Cantwarabyrig, which meant the
+city of the men of Kent. This title reveals the fact that the new
+settlers had by this time fixed their limits in Kent, and that they
+had found this site at the junction of all the Roman roads the most
+convenient for their capital. It was probably not until Ethelbert had
+begun to reign in 561 that Canterbury became the most important place
+in Kent, and at that time the site of the Cathedral was outside the
+town walls. Ethelbert, it should be mentioned, had extended his power
+so far beyond the confines of Kent that he had authority as far north
+as the Humber, and Bede writes of "the city of Canterbury, which was
+the metropolis of all his dominions."
+
+Up to the year 597 this Saxon capital, of practically all
+south-eastern England, was completely heathen, saving only the King's
+Frankish wife Bertha and Bishop Luidhard, who had come over as her
+chaplain about the year 575, when the marriage with the heathen
+Ethelbert had taken place. But in the year 597, that famous landmark
+in the Christianizing of Saxon England, Augustine, landed--if Bede may
+be trusted for a topographical detail of this character--on the island
+of Ebbsfleet, where Hengist and Horsa had previously found a haven
+for their vessels. This is now part of the corner of Kent, called
+Thanet, and is an island no longer. There Ethelbert, in that generous
+and broad-minded speech, familiar to all students of English history,
+while expressing himself as content with the gods of his forefathers
+(these included Thor, Woden, Freya, and the rest), yet would place no
+obstacles in the way of these missionaries of new and strange ideas.
+He even provided them with quarters in Canterbury, and in the old
+church of St. Martin outside the city, where Queen Bertha had been in
+the habit of worshipping with her chaplain, Augustine and his monks
+began to preach and instruct all who cared to listen. It seems
+unlikely that the influence of the queen and her good chaplain should
+have been entirely without results, and it is quite possible that
+Augustine found the ground prepared for the seed he diligently began
+to sow. Bishop Luidhard, whose name should always be linked with that
+of St. Augustine, appears to have died soon after the arrival of Pope
+Gregory's mission, and his remains were eventually placed in a golden
+chest in the church of Saints Peter and Paul, afterwards St.
+Augustine's.
+
+The zeal and enthusiasm of the band of missionaries began to bring in
+many converts. Ethelbert himself consented to be baptized on June 2 in
+the year of Augustine's landing, and the Saxons soon began to embrace
+the new faith in thousands, so that in a very few years the
+Christianizing of England had made such progress that Canterbury
+became the headquarters of the Christian Church in England, a position
+it has held without interruption ever since--a period of over 1,300
+years. It took England nearly nine centuries to make up its mind to
+rid itself of the stultifying authority of the Bishop of Rome and to
+shake itself free from monasticism and the various forms of idolatrous
+worship which grew up in the sultry atmosphere of the Papal Church;
+but these great changes have been evolved, and still the ancient city
+of Canterbury, hallowed with so many memories of saintly lives,
+continues to be the metropolis of the Established Church of England.
+And the imminence of further change carries with it no danger of any
+break in this long association of Canterbury with ecclesiastical
+control, for if in the slow grinding of the wheels of Time there
+should cease to be a State Church in this land, the organization of
+the churches holding to the Elizabethan form of worship will no doubt
+continue to be centred and focussed at Canterbury.
+
+[Illustration: CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM THE NORTH WEST.
+The state central or "Bell Harry" Tower is one of the most beautiful
+works of the Perpendicular period in existence.]
+
+As the first church mentioned in history associated with Christian
+worship St. Martin's occupies a unique position, and yet the fabric of
+the little building does not conclusively prove that it is even in
+part the actual church of this fascinating period. Cautious
+archæologists, represented by Mr. J. T. Micklethwaite, regard the
+earliest work in St. Martin's as belonging to the Saxon period, Roman
+materials having merely been worked up by the later builders. On the
+other hand, there are various careful antiquaries who are willing to
+accept the oldest parts of the church as Roman, and claim that St.
+Martin's is a Christian church put up during the Roman occupation.
+Perhaps the problem will be solved by further discoveries, but until
+then it seems wiser to regard St. Martin's as being in part a very
+early Saxon building, very probably standing on the site of the
+restored Roman church in which Queen Bertha worshipped before
+Augustine's arrival. Even if it were possible to state that parts of
+the walls were Roman, it would not be an easy matter to say whether
+the building were older than the two early Christian churches of
+North Cornwall, preserved through the ages by the drifting sand of
+that exposed coastline; therefore, to write, as so many have done,
+that St. Martin's is the oldest Christian church in England, is not
+justified by the facts. Besides St. Martin's, William Thorne, a
+fourteenth century chronicler, makes mention of "a temple or
+idol-place where Ethelbert had been wont to pray and to sacrifice to
+demons," and this building, instead of being destroyed, was purged
+from its defilements and idols and hallowed by Augustine when he
+dedicated it to St. Pancras the Roman boy-martyr. When the site, about
+halfway between St. Martin's and St. Augustine's, was excavated in
+1901, it was found to possess a nave about 47 feet long by 26 feet
+wide, with an apsidal chancel nearly the same width and depth
+separated from the nave by four Roman columns, and Mr. W.H. St. John
+Hope, of the Society of Antiquaries, who carried out the operations
+with Canon Routledge, has suggested that this may be the first church
+built by Augustine out of Roman materials ready to hand, while the
+larger one, dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, a little to the west,
+was slowly being constructed. It was not finished when, in 605,
+Augustine died, and eventually the dedication included the canonized
+first archbishop of the English Church, who was buried in the building
+when it was finished. The other great figures of the period--Ethelbert
+and his Queen, and her chaplain--were also laid to rest in the church.
+A few years ago it was only possible to form an idea of this large
+structure from the Norman north wall of the nave and part of the
+north-west tower, but now that nearly the whole of the eastern end has
+been excavated one can see the underground portion of practically all
+the east end and part of the north transept. Ethelbert's son, Eadbald,
+having been converted two years after his accession, built another
+church east of that of Saints Peter and Paul, and this was joined on
+to the abbey church when the east end was extended about the time of
+the Norman Conquest. At the same time as he began the monastery
+subsequently called after him, Augustine appears to have made his
+headquarters close to another early Christian church within the walls
+of the Saxon city. This, according to Bede, was hallowed "in the name
+of the Holy Saviour," and thus arose the name Christ Church--the name
+the cathedral now bears. In these early times there were therefore
+five Christian churches either restored or under construction, and
+they were all roughly in a line running east and west. First there was
+Christ Church and Augustine's residence--eventually the priory--within
+the walls, then the embryo abbey of Saints Peter and Paul, with the
+chapel of St. Mary a little to the east. Farther still was the church
+of St. Pancras, and farthest from the city walls, on its little hill,
+St. Martin's. There are other traces of Saxon work in the church of
+St. Mildred near the castle, but this is much later than anything that
+has been discovered on the other sites, and Dr. Cox points out what he
+claims as pre-Conquest work in St. Dunstan's outside the city, on the
+Whitstable Road.
+
+Canterbury appears to have grown and prospered in spite of various
+attacks made by the Danes until the year 1011, when the city, after a
+defence lasting nearly three weeks, fell into the hands of the
+invaders through treachery from within. Alphege, the good old
+archbishop, was obliged to witness the savagery of the Danes when they
+burst through the gates and began a horrible slaughter, which included
+the monks of Christ Church, and it is said that about 7,000 Saxons
+perished. Not content with all this butchery, they burnt the
+cathedral. Archbishop Alphege was carried off by the victorious Danes,
+who at Greenwich gave way to drunken excesses, and in brutal fashion
+killed their prisoner. The body was brought from London, where it had
+been buried, back to Canterbury ten years later by Canute, the first
+Danish King of England, who made what atonement he could by lending
+his freshly painted state barge for the ceremonious translation of the
+martyr's remains. Arrived at Canterbury, the King proceeded to further
+demonstrate his submission to the Church his people had devastated by
+hanging up his crown in the cathedral which Alphege's successor,
+Archbishop Living, had reroofed. Canute, having made a journey to Rome
+in 1031, among other pious resolutions, declared that he would amend
+his life and conversation, and it was with his help that the Saxon
+cathedral was properly repaired and decorated.
+
+During the year following the Norman Conquest a fire began in
+Canterbury, which, besides destroying many houses, reduced the
+unfortunate cathedral to a roofless ruin once more. Three years
+later, in 1070, when Lanfranc was made the first Norman archbishop, he
+decided that the Saxon walls were worthless, and he swept away every
+trace of the building, which may have been partially Roman, before
+proceeding to erect a larger and grander pile in the Norman style
+familiar to him. One feature of the original church has, nevertheless,
+left its mark on the Norman cathedral. This was a crypt described by
+Eadmer, the monkish historian, who, as a boy, saw the Saxon church
+being demolished. It was only a small affair, but it must have been
+the most remarkable feature of the comparatively small oblong
+building, for it was not, properly speaking, a crypt at all, but an
+undercroft beneath the eastern altars. "To reach these altars," says
+Eadmer, "a certain crypt, which the Romans call a confessionary, had
+to be ascended by means of several steps from the choir of the
+singers. Thus the Norman archbishop, in planning a larger cathedral,
+constructed a crypt under the choir of his new building, and the steps
+one ascends to-day are there as the direct outcome of the structural
+methods of rude Saxon times."
+
+Lanfranc completed his new cathedral in 1077, and in his lifetime he
+also founded the great Benedictine priory of Christ Church, whose
+considerable remains add so much medievalism to the surroundings of
+the vast cathedral. Anselm succeeded Lanfranc after an interval of a
+few years, during which Rufus found it exceedingly desirable to keep
+the see vacant while the revenues were diverted into the royal
+coffers, and scarcely twenty years after his predecessor's church was
+finished, Prior Ernulph pulled down the east end and constructed in
+its place the magnificent Norman choir, with its transepts and chapels
+standing with various alterations to-day. This great work was finished
+by Prior Conrad, who succeeded Ernulph, and the noble work, which
+became known as Conrad's Choir, was consecrated in 1130 by Archbishop
+de Corbeuil. To make this bald statement and omit to mention the
+ceremony attending it would be misleading; for not only were Henry I.
+and David of Scotland present, but Canterbury saw such a gathering of
+dignitaries of Church and State with their splendid retinues that the
+historian found nothing to compare with it but Solomon's dedication of
+the Temple!
+
+This splendid church, representing the finest achievement of Norman
+master-builders and workmen, rising high above the domestic quarters
+of the monastery and standing forth conspicuously from every part of
+the little walled city, then consisting, to a considerable extent, of
+low wooden houses, had now reached the stage in its development when
+it was to be the scene of the murder which was to make Canterbury the
+most famous resort of pilgrims in Europe. This occurred forty years
+later; but no change in the great Norman church had taken place in
+that period.
+
+So thrilling is the whole story of Becket's murder that there is every
+temptation to tell again the tale of Henry II.'s hasty exclamation,
+and the headlong journey from Normandy to Canterbury made by those
+four knights whose foul deed history has not ceased to condemn; but
+for a full account the reader is advised to turn to Dean Stanley's
+"Historical Memorials of Canterbury." It was in the same year and the
+same month as his death that Becket had returned from exile to
+Canterbury after an absence of six years, and at the close of a decade
+of continual struggle with the King. The Archbishop, having landed at
+Sandwich on his arrival from France, had been received with the
+greatest enthusiasm, and the people of Canterbury showed their
+delight in every possible manner. There were imposing banquets, and
+hangings of silk were put up in the cathedral for the great occasion;
+but at the end of this December, on the gloomy afternoon of the 29th,
+the four murderers arrived in the city. The day was a Tuesday, the day
+on which all the great events of Becket's life had taken place; for
+not only had he been born on a Tuesday, but on that day he had been
+exiled, on that day he had been warned of his impending martyrdom, and
+on that day he had returned from exile.
+
+[Illustration: THE "ANGEL" OR "BELL HARRY" TOWER AND THE BAPTISTERY.
+The massive Norman work is seen here in strong contrast with the
+lightness and delicacy of the Perpendicular tower.]
+
+While leaving the long story to be told with the amazingly ample
+detail Dean Stanley was able to employ, one is tempted to quote his
+account of the first interview between Becket and the four knights,
+for too often the memory recalls nearly every fact of the murder
+except the indictment, if it may be so called. The four knights had
+discarded their weapons and concealed their armour under the cloak and
+gown of ordinary life on entering the cathedral precincts, so that on
+their first appearance in the Archbishop's private room their aspect
+was sinister without being immediately threatening. Becket had just
+finished dinner, and was seated on his couch talking to his friends
+when the four knights were announced, and he pointedly continued, his
+conversation with the monk who sat by him and on whose shoulder he was
+leaning.
+
+ They on their part entered without a word, beyond a greeting
+ exchanged in a whisper to the attendants who stood near the
+ door, and then marched straight to where the Archbishop sate,
+ and placed themselves on the floor at his feet, among the
+ clergy who were reclining around. Radulf the archer sate
+ behind them, on the boards. Becket now turned round for the
+ first time, and gazed steadfastly on each in silence, which he
+ at last broke by saluting Tracy by name. The conspirators
+ continued to look mutely at each other, till Fitzurse, who
+ throughout took the lead, replied with a scornful expression,
+ "God help you!" Becket's face grew crimson, and he glanced
+ round at their countenances, which seemed to gather fire from
+ Fitzurse's speech. Fitzurse again broke forth: "We have a
+ message from the King over the water--tell us whether you will
+ hear it in private, or in the hearing of all." "As you wish,"
+ said the Archbishop. "Nay, as _you_ wish," said Fitzurse.
+ "Nay, as _you_ wish," said Becket. The monks, at the
+ Archbishop's intimation, withdrew into an adjoining room; but
+ the doorkeeper ran up and kept the door ajar, that they might
+ see from the outside what was going on.
+
+
+Before the knights began the recital of their complaints, however,
+Becket appears to have become alarmed at the demeanour of the four
+men, who afterwards admitted that they thought of killing him then and
+there with the only weapon that was handy--a cross-staff that lay at
+his feet.
+
+ The monks hurried back, and Fitzurse, apparently calmed by
+ their presence, resumed his statement of the complaints of the
+ King. The complaints--which are given by the various
+ chroniclers in very different words--were three in number.
+ "The King over the water commands you to perform your duty to
+ the King on this side of the water, instead of taking away his
+ crown." "Rather than take away his crown," replied Becket, "I
+ would give him three or four crowns." "You have excited
+ disturbances in the kingdom, and the King requires you to
+ answer for them at his court." "Never," said the Archbishop,
+ "shall the sea again come between me and my Church, unless I
+ am dragged thence by the feet." "You have excommunicated the
+ bishops, and you must absolve them." "It was not I," replied
+ Becket, "but the Pope, and you must go to him for absolution."
+
+[Illustration: THE CHAPEL OF "OUR LADY" IN THE UNDERCROFT OF THE
+ CATHEDRAL.
+Being entirely above the ground this is not a crypt as it is so often
+miscalled. The morning light in winter fills the spaces between the
+massive Norman piers.]
+
+After some more stormy words the knights became irritated by Becket's
+contradictions, and swore "by God's wounds" that they had endured
+enough, but Becket, putting aside John of Salisbury's suggestion that
+he should speak privately to the angry knights, began to complain of
+the grievances and insults he had himself received during the preceding
+week: "They have attacked my servants," he said; "they have cut off my
+sumpter-mule's tail; they have carried off the casks of wine that were
+the King's own gift." To this Hugh de Moreville, who was the least
+aggressive of the four, replied: "Why did you not complain to the King
+of these outrages? Why did you take upon yourself to punish them by
+your own authority?" But Becket, turning sharply towards him, said:
+"Hugh! how proudly you lift up your head! When the rights of the
+Church are violated, I shall wait for no man's permission to avenge
+them. I will give to the King the things that are the King's, but to
+God the things that are God's. It is my business, and I alone will see
+to it." Taking up such an attitude in front of four men who had come
+hot-foot to Canterbury with the express determination to seek an
+excuse for killing him, Becket was sealing his own fate.
+
+ For the first time in the interview the Archbishop had assumed
+ an attitude of defiance; the fury of the knights broke at once
+ through the bonds which had partially restrained it, and
+ displayed itself openly in those impassioned gestures which
+ are now confined to the half-civilized nations of the South
+ and East, but which seem to have been natural to all classes
+ of medieval Europe. Their eyes flashed fire, they sprang upon
+ their feet, and, rushing close up to him, gnashed their teeth,
+ twisting their long gloves, and wildly threw their arms above
+ their heads. Fitzurse exclaimed: "You threaten us--you
+ threaten us! are you going to excommunicate us all?"
+
+Becket sprang up from his couch at this insulting demonstration, and
+in the state of great excitement into which he could fall when roused,
+he flung down his defiant challenge that all the swords in England
+could not shake his obedience to the Pope. The four knights, goaded to
+fury by other passionate words, left him, shouting, "To arms! to
+arms!" They made their way with an excited throng to the great
+gateway, where they armed, while the doors were closed to shut off the
+monastery from communication with the town. The Archbishop seems to
+have been fully alive to his danger, and yet he persistently refused
+to take the smallest measure for his safety, opening with his own
+hands the door from the cloisters into the north transept which some
+of the monks had closed and barred immediately after they had dragged
+the Archbishop into the nearly dark building.
+
+Vespers had just begun when the murderers entered, but the singing of
+that service was never completed. The fear of sacrilege induced the
+knights to try to drag the defenceless Archbishop out of the
+Cathedral, but he struggled with such vigour, flinging one of the men
+down on the stone floor, that they gave up the attempt and killed him
+with three or four sword strokes, the last of which, as he lay prone,
+was delivered by Richard le Bret, or the Breton, and so tremendous was
+the force with which it was delivered that the crown of the head was
+severed from the skull and the sword broke in two on the pavement.
+
+Canterbury being much divided in its attachment to Becket, the
+murderers found escape easy, and the general regrets most expressed
+seem to have been at the sacrilege rather than at the murder.
+
+It is almost incredible how rapidly Becket became St. Thomas of
+Canterbury. Within a few hours of the tragic scene, when, night having
+fallen and the great church being closed and deserted, Osbert, the
+Archbishop's chamberlain, entering with a light in his hand, found his
+master's body lying on its face, with the frightful wound exposed, the
+monks had kissed the hands and feet of the corpse and called him by
+the name of Saint Thomas. What appears to have raised the fraternity
+to this enthusiastic anticipation of the canonization, officially
+announced at Westminster in 1173, was the discovery that Becket had on
+beneath his outer robes, and the many other garments he wore, the
+black cowled cloak of the Benedictines, and next to his skin a
+hair-cloth shirt of unusual roughness. When the body was being
+prepared for the tomb this shirt was found to be easily removable for
+the daily scourging Becket had been in the habit of enduring, the
+marks of the stripes administered on the previous day being plainly
+visible. Dean Stanley adds another fact not easy to be believed by
+those who have never become intimate with the practices of medieval
+monasticism:
+
+ Such austerity had hitherto been unknown to English saints,
+ and the marvel was increased by the sight--to our notions so
+ revolting--of the innumerable vermin with which the hair-cloth
+ abounded--boiling over with them, as one account describes it,
+ like water in a simmering cauldron. At the dreadful sight all
+ the enthusiasm of the previous night revived with double
+ ardour. They looked at one another in silent wonder, then
+ exclaimed, "See, see what a true monk he was, and we knew it
+ not!" and burst into alternate fits of weeping and laughter,
+ between the sorrow at having lost such a head and the joy of
+ having found such a saint.
+
+[Illustration; THE CHAPEL OF ST. MICHAEL OR THE WARRIORS' CHAPEL.
+It is one of the most interesting Chapels in the Cathedral, containing
+the tomb of Stephen Langton and in the centre of the drawing that of
+Lady Margaret Holland and her two husbands.]
+
+Almost immediately the superstitious belief in the efficacy of a
+martyr's blood made everyone who was permitted to approach Becket's
+body anxious to obtain a scrap of a blood-stained garment to soak in
+water with which to anoint the eyes! In a short time many parts of the
+clothes had been given away to the poor folk of Canterbury; but as
+soon as the miracle-working properties came to be properly understood
+these precious shreds of the Archbishop's voluminous garments ran up
+in value until the possession of such a fragment meant wealth to the
+owner. Any relic of the body itself had still greater value, its
+efficacy in curing the multifarious ailments of the pilgrims who began
+to flock to Canterbury being immeasurable. And when the neighbouring
+monastery of St. Augustine burned with desire to possess a relic of
+St. Thomas they offered Roger, the keeper of the "Altars of the
+Martyrdom," the position of Abbot of their own abbey if he would
+contrive to bring with him a portion of Becket's skull. Roger had been
+specially chosen to guard this relic, but he succumbed to the
+temptation offered by the rival establishment outside the city walls,
+and having purloined the coveted fragment of the martyr, was duly
+installed in the highest office of St. Augustine's. Whether the whole
+affair was public property at the time does not fully appear, but
+those who recorded events at St. Augustine's did not hesitate to
+glory in the success of their scheme!
+
+So great was the popular execration of the murder that the autocratic
+Archbishop who had not inspired universal admiration in his lifetime
+was soon to become the most frequently invoked of all the calendar of
+saints, and the King himself, finding that his submission to the Papal
+legate at Avranches, two years after the crime, was not sufficient to
+avert the wrath of Heaven, which seemed to be visiting him in the form
+of rebellions and disasters in every part of his dominions, came to
+Canterbury in 1174 and went through a penance of extreme severity.
+Landing at Southampton, he came by the Pilgrims' Way to Harbledown,
+and so entered the ancient city. At the church of St. Dunstan, outside
+the walls, he took off his ordinary dress and walked barefoot through
+the streets to the monastery of Christ Church. It was a wet day, but
+being in the month of July the wearing of a shirt only with a cloak to
+keep off the rain could not have been the cause of very great physical
+discomfort apart from the cutting of his feet by stones on the road.
+At the Cathedral they took Henry to the tomb of the man whose death he
+had caused, and there he knelt and shed bitter tears, groaning and
+lamenting. After again regretting his rash words in an address read by
+Gilbert Foliot, Bishop of London, and promising to restore the rights
+and property of the Church, the King, kneeling at the tomb, wearing a
+hair-shirt with a woollen one above it, placed his head and shoulders
+in one of the openings in the tomb and there received five strokes
+with a monastic rod from each of the bishops and abbots present, and
+afterwards the eighty monks each administered three strokes. Henry was
+now quite absolved, but he remained for the whole night with his bare
+feet still muddy and in the same penitential garb.
+
+[Illustration: THE SCENE OF THE MARTYRDOM IN THE NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT
+ OF THE CATHEDRAL.
+Since the tragic death of Becket in 1170 practically everything in this
+portion of the Cathedral has been re-constructed.]
+
+Arriving in London, the King took to his bed, suffering from a
+dangerous fever, but a few days later, hearing from Richmond in
+Yorkshire that the Scots had been defeated and driven north, he
+recovered rapidly, believing implicitly, after the manner of his age,
+that this success was attributable to the penance he had undergone on
+the day before the battle.
+
+And so, through the savage murder of an archbishop and the severe
+penance of a king the archiepiscopal capital of England began to
+resound all over Europe, and the annual procession of pilgrims
+commenced to traverse the hills along the old road from Winchester to
+the little Norman city. Not by that way only did the vast crowds reach
+Canterbury, for there was scarcely a road that at some period of the
+year did not send its contribution to the throng which jostled through
+the gates into the narrow streets leading to the monastery gateway.
+Year after year wealth poured into the Cathedral coffers, and pilgrims
+went away lighter in spirits and in purse, but each carrying with them
+the little leaden bottle in which the infinitely diluted blood of the
+martyr mixed with water was distributed.
+
+Scarcely two months after Henry's penance the splendid choir of the
+Cathedral caught fire, and the townsfolk, in a state between grief and
+rage, found themselves unable to stay the progress of the flames until
+nearly everything that could burn had vanished. The nave suffered less
+than Conrad's splendid choir, and in that less ruined portion of the
+building a temporary altar was erected. But for this fire it might
+have been possible for the modern pilgrim to see the building as it
+appeared during the stirring events just recounted; for,
+notwithstanding the wealth of the monastery of Christ Church, it would
+have probably been thought desirable to retain the fabric as much as
+possible as it appeared in Becket's time. The fire came, however, and
+the choir was to a great extent rebuilt, but fortunately the chapels
+were only slightly affected.
+
+After careful inquiry the monastery decided to employ William of Sens
+as architect for the reconstruction, and the excellent work of this
+clever Norman craftsman lives to-day in the eastern portion of the
+cathedral church. He set to work soon after the fire; but, after four
+years of labour, was so much injured by a fall from the scaffolding
+that he was obliged to abandon his unfinished work and return to his
+native Normandy. Upon an Englishman named William devolved the task of
+completing the work.
+
+Either following the Frenchman's plans or adapting them to his own
+ideas, he finished the eastern parts of the church as they stand
+to-day in the year 1184. To one or both of these architects is due the
+unusual device of narrowing the choir to avoid altering the site of
+the Trinity Chapel of Becket's time. When the reconstruction of
+Conrad's Norman choir began, the Gothic style was just beginning to
+appear--an incipient tendency towards a pointed arch here and there
+which grew into what is called the Transitional Period; and to this
+style--in between the Romanesque semicircular arch, with its
+accompanying massiveness, and the first style of Gothic known as Early
+English, distinguished by the pointed arch, detached pillars
+decorating the triforium and clerestory, and elaborate mouldings and
+capitals--the choir belongs.
+
+When the whole of the east end of the cathedral was finished, nearly
+two centuries elapsed before any further change took place beyond the
+beginning of the chapter-house. At the commencement of that period,
+however, one of Canterbury's most magnificent scenes of ecclesiastical
+pomp occurred in connection with the remains of Becket. The summer of
+1220 saw the completion of the new shrine, and on July 7, the
+translation of the saint's remains was accomplished amid scenes of the
+most astonishing splendour, described by those who were present as
+being without a parallel in the history of England, the crowds
+including people from many foreign countries. Money was spent so
+lavishly on the entertainment of the innumerable persons of
+distinction who were present or took part in the great ceremony that
+for several years the finances of the see were unpleasantly
+reminiscent of the vast expenditure. Henry III. was present, but he
+was not old enough to be a bearer of the great iron-bound chest
+containing the poor remnants of Becket's human guise. In the presence
+of nearly every ecclesiastical dignitary in the land the remains were
+placed in the newly finished shrine all aglow with jewels set in gold
+and silver.
+
+Throughout the centuries succeeding this crowning glory of Canterbury,
+the little walled city saw many great functions apart from the yearly
+stream of pilgrims of every grade of society, and the huge doles of
+food and drink given away by the two great monasteries and the lesser
+houses of the city must have brought together an unwholesome concourse
+of the needy.
+
+Every fifty years after the translation of Becket's remains to the
+great shrine there was a special festival on July 7, when the people
+of the archiepiscopal city would find their resources strained to the
+very uttermost in feeding and housing the great assemblage. The
+martyrdom took place on December 29, but owing to the time of the
+year this festival did not draw so many as the summer one. All through
+the year the pilgrims came and went, and instead of falling off in
+numbers as the martyrdom receded, the popularity of the saint did not
+reach its zenith until the fifteenth century. Royal visits were of
+frequent occurrence, and of all the cities of England, after London,
+Canterbury would appear to have entertained more distinguished
+personages than any other.
+
+Between 1378 and 1411 Prior Chillenden pulled down Lanfranc's Norman
+nave and transept, which had survived the fire, and rebuilt them in
+the Perpendicular style, then prevailing. When this work was finished
+and the south-western tower had been completed, in 1481, there was not
+much left of the Norman priory church built by Lanfranc. The
+north-western or Arundel Tower, the last survival of Lanfranc's
+church, was rebuilt in 1840 and made to match its Perpendicular
+neighbour and the central tower--the external masterpiece of the
+cathedral--commenced by Prior Molashe in 1433, and completed by Prior
+Selling in the closing years of the century. The piers supporting this
+tower are Norman with a later casing, and the foundations of the nave
+walls belong to the same period.
+
+Having reached its greatest glories, Canterbury began to decline, and
+the dissolution of the two great monasteries and the demolishing of
+Becket's shrine must have been to the city, on a much larger scale,
+what the sweeping away of all the Shakespearean landmarks and relics
+from Stratford-on-Avon of to-day would imply. Nevertheless the city
+could afford to present Queen Elizabeth with £30 in a scented purse
+when she came thither in 1564, and the fact that Canterbury remained
+the chief centre of the authority and state of the English Church
+prevented the city from decaying. And even if this dignity had not
+remained the position of the town in relation to the comings and
+goings between England and France would have saved it from any sudden
+fall from its opulence and greatness before the dissolution.
+
+To touch even lightly on the subsequent history of Canterbury is not
+possible here, but its remarkably interesting story has been woven
+into a connected narrative by Dr. Cox, whose admirable book should be
+procured by all who may, by reading this little sketch, feel some of
+the glamour which the old city has for the writer.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE CATHEDRAL
+
+
+From the swelling green hills that look over Canterbury the distant
+glimpses of the Cathedral towers gleaming in that opalescent light
+that is the joy of a summer's morning in Kent, are so hauntingly
+beautiful that it is hard to believe that no disillusionment need be
+anticipated when the ancient city is entered and the great church seen
+at close quarters in the midst of a little city whose busy streets are
+agog with twentieth-century interests; and yet apprehension is
+entirely needless. From St. Dunstan's Church, where Henry II. stripped
+himself to a shirt and cloak on entering as a penitent, the road is
+lined with houses whose quietly picturesque frontages improve as the
+city proper is neared, and at the end of a most pleasing perspective
+stands the West Gate, a great stone gateway with round towers. Passing
+through the archway, one is at once in the narrow, jostling
+familiarity of the medieval St. Peter's Street. This crosses one at
+the arms of the Stour, and continues as High Street, becoming
+increasingly rich in overhanging storeys and curious sixteenth and
+seventeenth century fronts. One's eye glances rapidly from side to
+side, until, on the left, an exceedingly narrow turning gives a
+peep--such a peep as no other city can give unless it be Rouen--of the
+Cathedral's western towers rising above a sumptuously enriched stone
+gateway framed by tall, timbered houses, which nod towards one another
+in the neighbourly fashion of old cronies. It might be that the modern
+pilgrim, whose course is thus arrested by the vision he sees in this
+cleft called Mercery Lane, might have had some intention of going
+straight through the city to St. Martin's Church outside the walls to
+the east; but, if so, he is a strong man who resists the appeal of
+that narrow way belonging altogether to the world of romance. He
+stands for a moment transfixed, and then plunges into the opening,
+forgetful of his original purpose in the vivid reality before him. He
+walks down the lane trodden century after century by countless
+pilgrims and enters the Cathedral precincts through the weather-worn
+gateway, Prior Goldstone II. built between 1507 and 1517.
+
+From the archway the first near vision of the vast pile is unfolded,
+nearly the whole of the south side being visible. Immediately opposite
+are the two western towers, the nearer one finished in 1451 and the
+further rebuilt seventy years ago. The heavily buttressed nave, in the
+same Perpendicular style, stretches away to the transept, where the
+eye mounts up higher and higher until it rests on the clustered
+pinnacles of the _campanilis Angeli_--the Angel Tower, as Prior
+Molashe by some happy inspiration chose to call the imposing feature
+he added to his priory church. Beyond the south-west transept appears
+the plain Norman work of the larger and more massive transept to the
+east, with its beautiful staircase tower built into the inner angle, a
+part of Conrad's "glorious" choir. The remaining eastern parts of the
+Cathedral are not visible from this point, but as one walks
+eastwards--the other way is closed by the Archbishop's Palace--St.
+Anselm's Tower and Trinity Chapel with its corona, or semicircular
+extension, successively appear. Armed even with such brief information
+as that given in the preceding chapter, one gazes on these weathered
+cliffs of wrought stone with quickened breath, reading into the
+Transitional Norman work the strange story of the historic murder
+which brought so much wealth to this spot that the Cathedral in its
+present form is due to little else. To wipe out Becket's name
+completely Henry VIII. would have needed to demolish the whole church.
+
+[Illustration: THE DOORWAY INTO THE TRANSEPT OF MARTYRDOM FROM THE
+ CLOISTERS.
+It was through this doorway that Becket was followed by his murderers
+on that fatal afternoon in 1170 when the winter twilight was
+deepening.]
+
+The smooth turf along the south side of the Cathedral was used by the
+monks as a lay cemetery, and the fairly extensive space to the
+south-east shaded by old elms was their own burial-ground. All the
+monastic buildings were, contrary to the usual custom, on the north,
+for having only a narrow space between the south side of their church
+and the wall which Lanfranc built to secure the whole monastery, they
+naturally built on their extensive piece of ground running right up to
+the city wall to the north. Rounding the east end of the Cathedral,
+therefore, one finds under its ample shadow the remains of many of the
+domestic offices of the great priory. The great hall, with its kitchen
+and offices, is now part of the house of one of the prebendaries, and
+is not accessible to the public, but to the west are the interesting
+ruins of the infirmary. This was a long building with aisles, having
+a chapel opening out of it to the east, so that the sick brethren
+while lying in their beds could listen to the services. The south
+arcade of this chapel, consisting of four Norman arches with an
+ivy-grown clerestory, is still standing, and there are also some
+arches of the south side of the hall still showing the orange-pink
+colour produced on the stone by the disastrous fire in 1174, when
+Conrad's choir was reduced to a ruin. Adjoining the western end of the
+infirmary hall, and now a part of the Cathedral, is the beautiful
+Transitional-Norman treasury built on to St. Andrew's Chapel. Going to
+the right through a passage called the Dark Entry, one has the site of
+the prior's lodging on the right and on the left the infirmary
+cloister, and north of it the smaller dormitories of the monks. This
+passage-way leads through the vaulted Prior's Gate to the Green Court,
+a wide grassy space shaded by great limes and other trees. Framed
+between the spreading branches appears one of the most perfect
+groupings of the Angel Steeple with the piled-up roofs of the library,
+chapter house, and north-west transept as steps leading up to the vast
+tower, whose presence has an uplifting effect on the mind, scarcely
+equalled by the solemn immensity of the nave when one first
+enters--but the interior must wait for a little, while the remaining
+portions of the precincts are seen.
+
+Adjoining the Prior's Gate to the east is the building now used as the
+Deanery. It was built by Prior Goldstone in late Perpendicular times
+as a guest-house for the reception of strangers, but has been much
+altered since that time. At the north-west corner of the court is a
+very fine Norman gateway, now surrounded by the modern buildings of
+the King's School, and a little to the right is a Norman staircase,
+which by the goodness of Providence was allowed to remain when other
+destruction was in progress. This beautiful and unique example of a
+staircase of this early period is the most remarkable feature of the
+monastic remains. Beyond the Green Court Gate stood the almonry and a
+granary, and south of these buildings was the Archbishop's Palace, so
+ruined in Puritan times that the remains of a gateway in Palace Street
+is practically all that can now be seen. The present palace is quite
+modern. Coming back to the Cathedral, the remarkably picturesque
+little circular Lavatory Tower standing on late Norman open arches is
+noticeable in its shadowy seclusion among the lofty walls of the choir
+chapels. This is generally known as the Baptistery, but the name only
+began to be used when the font Bishop Warner presented to the
+Cathedral was placed there. In the little garden in front of the
+Lavatory Tower are two Roman columns brought from Reculver more than a
+century ago when the church there became a ruin. West of this tower is
+the library, standing on part of the site of the great dormitory, and
+opening on to the cloisters is the chapter house, commenced in 1304 by
+Prior Estria and finished in 1378 by Prior Chillenden. The windows at
+the east and west ends are the largest in the Cathedral.
+
+The great cloister, like the chapter house, largely owes its present
+appearance to Prior Chillenden, and is of exceedingly beautiful
+Perpendicular work with a splendid roof of lierne vaulting. Part of
+the south walk, with the doorway into the north transept--the
+successor to the Norman one through which Becket passed to his
+death--is shown in Mr. Biscombe Gardner's drawing facing page 43. If
+one enters the Cathedral from this point, especially if it should be
+in the twilight of a gloomy day, the atmosphere of the murder seems to
+be all about one, notwithstanding the rebuilding at a later period of
+the actual scene, but the historic entrance is by the south porch
+facing the great gate of the priory, and as it is still the usual
+place of entry this short account of the interior will begin at that
+point.
+
+[Illustration: THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE IN CANTERBURY.
+This picturesque house of the Franciscans, who came to the town in
+1220, stands on a branch of the Stour near Stour Street.]
+
+The porch belongs to the great period of rebuilding under Prior
+Chillenden, and, with its double row of canopied niches containing
+statues, is a beautiful feature, even with the central space which
+contained a representation of the martyrdom of Becket still vacant
+since the days of Henry VIII. There is in the first view of a vast
+Cathedral nave something almost overpowering in its sense of ordered
+beauty. It may be that average lives are so planless, so haphazard and
+without order that an achievement of such magnitude representing years
+of labour and concentrated thought in steadily following out a
+preconceived plan cannot fail to be a tremendous contrast to the
+smallness and pettiness of the majority--a contrast so great that it
+is mentally and spiritually a glimpse of the world of new
+possibilities attainable when once the feverish clinging to the ideals
+of the totem post is abandoned. This vast nave, reminiscent in many
+ways of Winchester, but far more satisfying, is generally bathed in a
+cool, greenish light, and is, in reality, a magnificent vestibule to
+the crowded interest beyond the transept. The effect of emptiness
+existing to-day is vastly different to what the pilgrims used to gaze
+upon while waiting their turn to be sprinkled with holy water, for
+before the Reformation and the complete sweeping away of the
+enrichments of Roman Catholic times the roof and walls were brilliant
+with paintings, the windows glowed with the warm colour of medieval
+glass, sumptuous hangings were suspended in many places and the altars
+twinkling with lighted candles added much gilding and colour to the
+aisles. All this barbarous crowding of colour and ornament, all this
+splendour of a ritual that appealed to an age capable of stilling the
+voice of conscience with an absolution obtainable for a few pence has
+passed away, but the vast building remains to tell of the reality of
+endeavour of one side of monastic life.
+
+[Illustration: THE PICTURESQUE GABLED HOUSES OF THE CANTERBURY
+ WEAVERS.
+The houses are reflected in the Stour just by King's Bridge, which
+joins the High Street to St. Peter's Street.]
+
+Across the great arch opening into the base of the tower is the
+supporting arch inserted by Prior Goldstone II., who, as already
+stated, built the Angel Steeple above the roof-line where it had been
+left by Chillenden. The arch has been called a disfigurement, and as
+it was not originally intended such an opinion may be justifiable, and
+yet the beauty of the reticulated stonework and the consummate skill
+which conceived the bold simplicity of design is so satisfying that it
+is scarcely possible to wish that it were absent. Beneath this flying
+arch appears the splendid western screen, approached by the flight of
+steps necessitated by the crypt or undercroft, for, being on perfectly
+level ground, there would have been no need for this unique feature.
+Among the monuments in the nave aisles those on the south include the
+memorial to Dean Farrar, who is buried in the great cloister, and
+William Broughton, Bishop of Sydney and Adelaide, who was a scholar at
+the King's School. In the north aisle the Tudor monument to Sir T.
+Hales showing his burial at sea is curious and picturesque, and other
+memorials are to Charles I.'s organist, Orlando Gibbons, and to the
+Archbishops Boyes and Sumner.
+
+The north-west transept, on the left as the steps to the choir are
+ascended, is the scene of Becket's martyrdom, and the vergers show the
+traditional spot where he fell. From the opposite transept, steps lead
+down to the undercroft, and also up to the south choir aisle--the way
+the pilgrims approached the shrine of St. Thomas. Also opening from
+the south-west transept is St. Michael's or the Warrior's Chapel, as
+it is now popularly called. In the illustration facing p. 30, the tomb
+of Lady Margaret Holland and her two husbands, John Beaufort, Earl of
+Somerset, and Thomas, Duke of Clarence, is shown occupying the centre
+of the chapel, but it just misses a more interesting, if much less
+beautiful, tomb, that of Stephen Langton, the courageous Archbishop
+who took such a leading part in forcing John to sign Magna Charta. The
+plain sarcophagus is partly within and partly outside the chapel, for
+when it was rebuilt in the fourteenth century it was extended so much
+to the east that it became necessary either to move Langton's tomb or
+else to make an arch in the wall, and the latter course was taken,
+with the curious result still to be seen. An astonishing contrast to
+the clear-sighted action of this Norman Archbishop was the attitude of
+Archbishop Howley (1828-1848) whose bitter hostility to the Reform
+Bill in 1831 so raised the anger of the people of Canterbury that they
+greeted his next arrival in the city with showers of stones and rotten
+eggs. In the midst of a howling mob the archiepiscopal carriage
+slowly struggled to the Deanery, bearing in it the amiable Churchman
+who was convinced that the Reform Bill was "mischievous in its
+tendency, and extremely dangerous to the fabric of the constitution."
+Such words are deeply interesting at the present day, when many people
+think they see, in progress on the same lines, dangers of an equally
+unfounded order.
+
+Passing along the south aisle of the choir, one gradually sees the
+whole of the elaborately devised eastern parts of the Cathedral as
+they were reconstructed by William of Sens and his English successor.
+The arcades of alternately circular and octagonal pillars have richly
+carved foliated capitals, and there is a lightness in form and a
+profusion of carving that tells of the coming of the Gothic
+style--indeed, so far in advance of the plain Norman work of Conrad is
+the present choir that the change to pure Early English is slight in
+comparison. In its great length this choir is unique, and in the
+lowness of its vaulted roof is also unusual, but this is accounted for
+by the undercroft beneath. From the centre of the choir the remarkable
+inward bend of the walls, necessitated through the determination not
+to alter the plan of the Trinity Chapel so hallowed by the memory of
+the Blessed St. Thomas, is very noticeable: to some extent it helps to
+give one an impression of the great length of the whole choir, with
+the chapel beyond. The eastern transepts and chapels still have their
+apsidal chapels almost as they were built by Conrad.
+
+Ascending some more steps, the modern pilgrim reaches Trinity Chapel,
+where his eyes, instead of falling upon a shrine encrusted with jewels
+and precious metals, merely look between the pillars upon an empty
+space. A vacant spot, however, can be eloquent enough, and to those
+who have read Chaucer's "Canterbury Tales" or the late Mr. Snowden
+Ward's "Canterbury Pilgrimages," if they have gone no farther in the
+study of this fascinating cult, the site of the shrine whose fame was
+European is able to give almost as deep a thrill as any experienced by
+the wayworn folk of the Middle Ages.
+
+By going closer and examining the pavement, a shallow groove appears
+marking the exact position of the base of the shrine. This was worn by
+the endless stream of pilgrims as they knelt in ecstasy before the
+object their eyes had longed to feast upon. To the west is a fine
+thirteenth-century mosaic pavement similar to that in the Confessor's
+Chapel at Westminster Abbey, to which it is very fitting to compare
+this chapel, for if it is not quite a "Chapel of the Kings" it has a
+King--Henry IV.--and a king's eldest son--the Black Prince--on either
+side, and after Westminster Abbey there was scarcely a more sacred
+spot in the kingdom than this.
+
+It was fitting that Henry IV. should be buried here, for he had taken
+a considerable amount of interest in the rebuilding of the nave, and
+had been liberal in his financial aid. The effigies of Henry and his
+second wife, Joan of Navarre, are believed to be faithful
+representations. Of the tomb of Edward the Black Prince, if space
+permitted, much could be said, for it is a magnificent piece of work
+apart from the historical interest that attaches to the soldier
+Prince, whose two great victories at Crécy and Poitiers have thrilled
+every English schoolboy during all the subsequent centuries. The
+strong iron railing has prevented any damage to the bronze or latten
+effigy, and except for the tarnishing and general deterioration of
+gilding and paint, one looks on the monument as it was erected in the
+days of chivalry. All the details of this tomb had been arranged by
+the Black Prince himself, and it was he who chose the Norman-French
+inscription all can plainly read to-day. Above the tomb is suspended a
+flat canopy of wood with an embattled moulding, and on the underside a
+much decayed painting of the Trinity, if one may call it such when the
+Dove is not represented. On the beam from which the canopy is
+suspended are hung the shield, helmet, velvet coat, brass gauntlets,
+and empty sword sheath which are the survivals of two complete suits,
+one for peace, and one for war, which were carried at the funeral as
+the Prince had ordered in his will.
+
+The eastern extension of the chapel is called Becket's Crown, a name
+tradition associates with the preservation in this chapel of a portion
+of St. Thomas's skull. One window contains old glass, and in the
+centre of the floor is placed the chair of Purbeck marble in which the
+Archbishops are enthroned. As it is no longer considered as old as the
+days of Augustine the title St. Augustine's Chair must be regarded as
+a figure of speech.
+
+By the most marvellous good fortune the wonderful series of windows in
+Trinity Chapel, illustrating the many cures wrought at the Shrine of
+St. Thomas, have come down to the present time almost unharmed, and
+this magnificent range of thirteenth-century glass is finer than
+anything else of its period in England. This glass is all prior to
+1220, and without it there would have been no representation of the
+first shrine at all. The colour in these windows is all subservient to
+the careful drawing of the pictures in the medallions, but in the
+north choir aisle there are some windows almost of the same period
+where the colour is as splendid as in any of the early windows at
+Chartres. For any description of the tombs of the archbishops there
+is, unfortunately, no space here. In the splendid crypt, besides the
+interest of the various periods of Norman and Transitional work, there
+is the rich Perpendicular screenwork of the Chapel of Our Lady of the
+Undercroft, and the Huguenot Chapel in what was the Black Prince's
+Chantry. In Tudor times the whole of the undercroft was given up to
+the French Protestant refugees, who, besides worshipping there, set up
+their looms in this hallowed portion of the Cathedral where the martyr
+was laid until his translation in 1220 and where Henry II. had passed
+the night after his severe penance. This very short description of
+such a building must be regarded as a mere introduction to the study
+of a vast subject, for in the space available nothing more is remotely
+possible.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE CITY
+
+
+A walled city generally holds more easily that elusive quality of
+romance for which the intelligent mind so often hungers than a town
+that has long ago discarded its old tower-studded girdle. And among
+the half-dozen or more English towns still possessed of their old
+mural defences Canterbury holds a high place, because within its walls
+there are still, in spite of railways and motors and the horrors of
+twentieth-century advertising, a hundred byways and nooks where the
+atmosphere of Elizabethan and pre-Reformation England still lurks. The
+wall itself does not stand out with the splendid completeness of York
+or Conway, and on the western side it has vanished altogether, while
+of the seven or eight gates, one only--the West Gate--has been saved;
+yet, while walking in the narrow, picturesque streets, it is difficult
+to forget that Canterbury is a walled city. Until well into last
+century all the gates were standing; but one by one these ornaments
+were destroyed by the city until one only was left, and even that
+would have been wantonly sacrificed to facilitate the entry of some
+circus caravans when, in 1850, Wombwell's menagerie visited the city!
+This vandal showman actually dared to request the Corporation to
+demolish the gate on account of the difficulty of getting his
+procession through the low arch. This is hard to believe, but it is
+infinitely more difficult to understand the aboriginal minds of some
+of the members of the Corporation when the records unblushingly reveal
+that the showman's preposterous request not only found both a proposer
+and a seconder, but that the votes were equally divided on the matter,
+and it was only the Mayor's casting vote which has preserved for the
+city its noble entry. Such a searchlight as this, throwing into
+dazzling clearness the almost entire lack of appreciation for its
+historic buildings possessed by the controllers of the city must make
+one grateful for the happy chances which have permitted so much that
+is old and picturesque to survive.
+
+[Illustration: WESTGATE, CANTERBURY, FROM WITHIN.
+This is the only survivor of the gates which studded the mediæval
+walls of the city.]
+
+From the East Station there extends as far as the site of the old
+Riding Gate a well-preserved length of the wall with semicircular
+towers at intervals, and from opposite Lady Wootton's Green to St.
+Mary's Church, standing close to the site of North Gate, lengths of
+the wall, with a tower at intervals, form thrillingly medieval
+foregrounds for the Cathedral towers. In Pound Lane the wall continues
+in a furtive and rather desultory fashion until it ends at the West
+Gate. Opposite Lady Wootton's Green there still remain indications of
+a narrow postern, which is generally accepted as that through which
+Queen Bertha was wont to pass on her way to her devotions at St.
+Martin's Church. This, however, presupposes that the portion of the
+wall immediately surrounding this particular point is Roman or very
+Early Saxon, and also that the walls of the city occupied the same
+position, at least as far as this point, as those built at the end of
+the twelfth century.
+
+Mr. T. Godfrey Faussett's plan of Roman Canterbury appears to carry
+the wall just as far as this point, and then turns at an acute angle
+towards the south side of the Cathedral. Following the direction Queen
+Bertha would have taken brings one to the great gateway of St.
+Augustine's Abbey, the Benedictine monastery founded by Augustine on
+the land given for that purpose by Ethelbert. It was at first
+dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, and the original buildings were
+finished in 613. Having become the place of burial for the Kings of
+Kent and the Archbishops, the Abbey quite overshadowed the Priory of
+Christ Church, until in 758 Archbishop Cuthbert was secretly buried
+within the claustral confines of his own priory. At the Dissolution
+Henry converted the stately buildings into a palace, so that the royal
+visits, which had been of no infrequent occurrence in the days of
+monastic hospitality, continued; and while the lordly pile passed
+through the hands of various owners, Elizabeth, Charles I., and
+Charles II. paid visits on various occasions.
+
+A century ago, when appreciation of the architecture of the dead
+centuries when Englishmen built with superlative skill had ebbed to
+its lowest, the Abbey had sunk to inconceivably debased uses. The
+monastic kitchen had been converted into a public-house, and the great
+gateway--the finest structural relic of the Abbey--had become the
+entrance to a brewery, while cock-fighting took place in the state
+bedroom above. The pilgrims' guest hall, now the college dining-hall,
+had become a dancing-hall, and the ground, unoccupied by buildings,
+soil hallowed by the memories of so many saintly lives and associated
+with the momentous days when England was being released from the toils
+of pagan ignorance became known as "the Old Palace Tea-gardens." The
+popular mind had seemingly forgotten the original uses of the place
+they were desecrating with fireworks and variety shows.
+
+At last, in 1844, Mr. Beresford Hope rescued the half-destroyed
+remnants of the abbey-palace, and through his generosity the present
+missionary college was founded, and the buildings restored or
+reconstructed. A more happy idea could scarcely have been suggested
+than that of associating the abbey founded by the first missionary of
+Christianity to England with modern efforts to carry the light into
+the dark places of the earth. The much-restored gateway, built by
+Abbot Fyndon at the beginning of the fourteenth century, the
+guest-hall, and part of the memorial chapel, are the chief portions of
+the old structures incorporated into the buildings that surround three
+sides of the college quadrangle. Standing apart to the south is one of
+the huge walls of the nave of the abbey church, and to the east are
+the extensive excavations of the east end of the crypt and other
+fascinatingly early remains of the historic churches mentioned in an
+earlier chapter (p. 17).
+
+Leaving the Abbey grounds, and continuing to the east, one reaches in
+a few minutes the little church of St. Martin set on the knoll to
+which Queen Bertha directed her steps. It is, however, a
+disappointingly familiar type of Early English village church to the
+casual glance, and until the fabric and the remarkable font have been
+examined and discussed in the light of modern scientific archæology it
+is difficult to appreciate the hoary antiquity of at least parts of
+the structure. To understand the indications of the Saxon, or possibly
+Roman, work in the fabric, and to know the reasons for considering the
+font a relic of Saxon times, it is scarcely possible to find a better
+instructor than Canon Routledge, whose little book is all one can
+desire.
+
+When the Cathedral, the Abbey, and St. Martin's Church have been
+visited, it is too often thought that Canterbury has yielded up all
+her treasures, but this is an amazingly mistaken idea. There still
+remain to be seen the Castle, the walls, the old inns, the many
+interesting examples of early domestic architecture, the remains of
+the lesser religious houses and hospitals, a wonderful array of
+interesting churches, and the excellent museum. Of the Castle the
+great Norman keep, completed about 1125, still stands, having been
+allowed to remain because the walls were found to be too hard to
+easily destroy; but up to the time of writing the Corporation has not
+purchased the immense shell, and it therefore remains a storage place
+for the coal of the adjoining gasworks. The remains of the buildings
+of the Black, or Preaching, Friars, and those of the Grey Friars, who
+belonged to the rule of St. Francis, are on islands formed by the
+Stour, and are marked in nearly every plan of the town. The hospitals
+include that of St. John the Baptist in North Gate Street, Eastbridge
+Hospital in St. Peter Street, and the Poor Priests' Hospital near
+Stour Street. Outside the city, at Harbledown, is the interesting old
+Hospital of St. Nicholas, a home for lepers, who were separately
+housed.
+
+Of the churches it would be easy to write a great deal, but there is
+merely space to point out that the only one lacking in interest is All
+Saints' in High Street. At St. Dunstan's the head of Sir Thomas More
+is preserved in a vault, but it is never possible to see it, and one
+must be content with the picturesque brick gateway of the Roper house
+in St. Dunstan's Street.
+
+[Illustration: PLAN OF CANTERBURY CASTLE.
+
+KEY TO NUMBERS.
+ 1. Door to Cloisters.
+ 2. Door In Cloisters.
+ 3. Dean's (or Lady) Chapel.
+ 4. St. Michael's Chapel.
+ 5. Baptistery.
+ 6. Library (Howleian).
+ 7. Treasury.
+ 8. Chapel of King Henry IV.
+ 9. Arundel Tower (N.W.).
+ 10. Dunstan Tower (S.W.).
+ 11. Entrance to French Church.
+ 12. Archbishop Benson.
+ 13. Bishop Parry.
+ 14. Archbishop Sumner.
+ 15. Sir T. Hales.
+ 16. Colonel Stuart.
+ 17. Dr. Beaney.
+ 18. Dean Fotherbye.
+ 19. Archbishop Chicheley.
+ 20. Archbishop Bourchier.
+ 21. Archbishop Kemp.
+ 22. Archbishop Sudbury.
+ 23. St. Dunstan (site).
+ 24. Archbishop Tait.
+ 25. King Henry IV.
+ 26. Edward, the Black Prince.
+ 27. Becket's Shrine (site).
+ 28. Cardinal Pole.
+ 29. Unknown.
+ 30. Archbishop Mepham.
+ 31. Archbishop Winchelsey.
+ 32. Henry de Estria.
+ 33. Stephen Langton.
+ 34. Archbishop's ancient Chair.
+ 35. Memorial to Dean Farrar.
+ 36. Wm. Broughton, Bishop of Sydney and Adelaide.
+ 37. Archbishop Boyes.
+ 38. Tomb of Dean Farrar.
+ 39. Tomb of Archbishop Temple.
+ 40. Two columns from Reculver.]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+Alphege, Archbishop, 19, 20
+Angel Steeple, 42, 44, 48
+Anglo-Saxon invasions, 12
+Archbishop's Palace, 42, 45
+Augustine, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 54, 59
+
+Becket, Thomas à, 5, 6, 23-28, 43, 47, 49, 52, 54
+Bertha (Ethelbert's Queen), 13, 14, 16, 58, 61
+Black Prince, 53, 54, 55
+Boyes, Archbishop, 49
+Bret, Richard le, 29
+Broughton, Bishop, 49
+
+Cæsar, Julius, 10
+Canute, 20
+Castle, the, 62
+Cathedral, the, 40-55
+Charles I., 59
+Charles II., 59
+Chartres, windows at, 55
+Chillenden, Prior, 38, 46, 47, 48
+Clarence, Thomas, Duke of, 50
+Conrad's choir, 34
+Conrad, Prior, 22, 51, 52
+Corbeuil, Archbishop de, 22
+Cuthbert, Archbishop, 59
+
+Dane John, the, 10
+Danes, the, 19, 20
+David I. of Scotland, 22
+Dover, 11
+
+Eadbald, 18
+Eadmer, 21
+Elizabeth, Queen, 39, 59
+Ernulph, Prior, 22
+Estria, Prior, 46
+Ethelbert, 13, 14, 17, 18, 59
+
+Farrar, Dean, 49
+Fitzurse, Reginald, 25, 26
+Foliot, Gilbert, 33
+Fyndon, Abbot, 60
+
+Gates of Canterbury, the, 56-58
+Gibbons, Orlando, 49
+Goldstone II., Prior, 48
+
+Hales, Sir T., tomb of, 49
+Harbledown, 8, 32, 62
+Hengist and Horsa, 13
+Henry I., 22
+Henry II., 23, 34, 40, 55
+Henry III., 37
+Henry IV., tomb of, 53
+Henry VIII., 5, 43, 47, 59
+Holland, Lady Margaret, 50
+Hospitals, medieval, 62
+Howley, Archbishop, 50
+Huguenot Chapel, 55
+
+Joan of Navarre, 53
+John, King, 50
+
+King's school, the, 45, 49
+
+Lady Wootton's Green, 58
+Lanfranc, Archbishop, 21, 22, 38, 43
+Langton, Stephen, 50
+Living, Archbishop, 20
+Luidhard, Bishop, 13
+Lymne, 11
+
+Magna Charta, 50
+Mercery Lane, 41
+Molashe, Prior, 38, 42
+More, Sir Thomas, 62
+Moreville, Hugh de, 27
+
+Norman staircase, 45
+
+Pilgrims' Way, the, 6, 32, 34
+Prior's Gate, 44, 45
+
+Reculver, 2, 46
+Reform Bill, the, 50, 51
+Religious houses, 62
+Richborough, 11
+Roman Canterbury, 10-12, 16, 58, 61
+
+St. Augustine's Abbey, 11, 14, 19, 31, 58-60
+St. Dunstan, Church of, 19, 32, 40, 62
+
+St. Martin, Church of, 14, 16, 17, 19, 41, 58
+St. Mildred, Church of, 19
+St. Pancras, Church of, 17, 19
+Salisbury, John of, 26
+Sandwich, 23
+Selling, Prior, 38
+Somerset, John Beaufort, Earl of, 50
+Stanley, Dean, 23, 24, 30
+Sumner, Archbishop, 49
+
+Thorn, William, 17
+Tracy, William de, 25
+
+Walls of the city, 56-59
+Warrior's Chapel, the, 50
+West gate, the, 56-57
+William of Sens, 35, 51
+William Rufus, 22
+William the Englishman, 35
+
+
+
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Beautiful Britain, by Gordon Home
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Beautiful Britain
+
+Author: Gordon Home
+
+Release Date: October 29, 2004 [eBook #13890]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEAUTIFUL BRITAIN***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Ted Garvin, Victoria Woosley, and the Project Gutenberg
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team (www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+ file which includes the original lovely illustrations.
+ See 13890-h.htm or 13890-h.zip:
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/3/8/9/13890/13890-h/13890-h.htm)
+ or
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/3/8/9/13890/13890-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+BEAUTIFUL BRITAIN
+
+Canterbury
+
+by
+
+GORDON HOME
+
+MCMXI
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+ "When that Aprille with his showeres soote [= sweet]
+ The drought of March hath pierced to the roote,
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ "Then longen folk to go on pilgrimages,
+ And palmers for to seeken strange strands,
+ To ferme [=ancient] halwes [=shrines] knowthe [=known] in sundry lands
+ And specially from every shires end
+ Of Engeland, to Canterbury they wend,
+ The holy, blissful martyr for to seek
+ That them hath holpen when that they were sick."
+
+ CHAUCER: _Canterbury Tales_.
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+ CHAPTER
+ I. THE PILGRIM'S APPROACH TO THE CITY
+ II. THE STORY OF CANTERBURY
+ III. THE CATHEDRAL
+ IV. THE CITY
+ INDEX
+
+
+ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+ PLATE
+
+ 1. THE NAVE OF CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL (Frontispiece)
+ 2. CHRIST CHURCH GATE
+ 3. THE CATHEDRAL FROM NORTH-WEST
+ 4. THE "ANGEL" OR "BELL HARRY" TOWER AND THE LAVATORY TOWER OF THE
+ CATHEDRAL
+ 5. THE CHAPEL OF "OUR LADY" IN THE UNDERCROFT OF THE CATHEDRAL
+ 6. THE WARRIOR'S CHAPEL
+ 7. THE MARTYRDOM IN THE NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT
+ 8. THE DOORWAY FROM THE CLOISTERS TO THE MARTYRDOM
+ 9. THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE IN CANTERBURY
+ 10. THE HOUSE OF THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS
+ 11. WESTGATE CANTERBURY FROM WITHIN
+ 12. THE NORMAN STAIRCASE TO THE KING'S SCHOOL (On the cover)
+
+
+
+[Illustration: PLAN OF CANTERBURY, SHOWING THE CHIEF STREETS AND THE
+ MOST INTERESTING BUILDINGS.
+REFERENCE
+ A. Mercery Lane.
+ B. St. Peter's Church.
+ C. All Saints' Church.
+ D. St. Margaret's Church.
+ E. Poor Priests' Hospital.
+ F. St. Margarets Street.
+ G. Green Court.
+ H. Archbishops' Palace.
+ J. Norman Staircase.
+ K. St. George's Church.
+ L. Site Of Roman Gate.
+ M. Greyfriars.
+ N. Christ Church Gate.
+ O. St. Alphege's Church.
+ P. St. Mary Bredin Church]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE PILGRIM'S APPROACH TO THE CITY
+
+
+It was on April 24, 1538, that a writ of summons was sent forth in the
+name of Henry VIII., "To thee, Thomas Becket, some time Archbishop of
+Canterbury"--who had then been dead for 368 years--"to appear within
+thirty days to answer to a charge of treason, contumacy, and rebellion
+against his sovereign lord, King Henry II." But the days passed, and no
+spirit having stirred the venerated bones of the wonder-working saint,
+on June 10 judgment was given in favour of Henry, and it was decreed
+that the Archbishop's bones were to be burnt, and his world-famous
+shrine overlaid with gold and sparkling with jewels was to be
+forfeited to the Crown. Further than this went the sentence, for
+Thomas of Canterbury was to be a saint no longer, and his name and
+memory were to be wiped out. The remains were not burned, but
+throughout the land every statue, wall-painting, and window to the
+said Thomas Becket was rigorously searched out and destroyed, and from
+every record his name was carefully erased. And so it came about that
+the year 1538 saw the last pilgrimage to the shrine of St. Thomas the
+Martyr.
+
+A growing incredulity had prepared the way for this wave of
+iconoclasm, and the shrine once destroyed ended for ever this first
+phase of the Canterbury pilgrimages. It might have been truly thought,
+if anyone ever gave a moment to such speculations a century ago, when
+Englishmen cared little for the landmarks of their island story, that
+the last pilgrim who would ever wend his way along the old road to
+Canterbury had died in the sixteenth century, and yet how profoundly
+untrue would that impression have been in the light of the new
+enthusiasm for the site of the shrine! A considerable literature on
+the Pilgrims' Way from Winchester has already sprung up, and this
+little book is itself a souvenir for the pilgrim to carry away as
+evidence of the journey he has made, provided he cares to write
+inside the cover his name, the date of his visit, and the two words
+"at Canterbury."
+
+Now, I do not disguise the fact that many of the twentieth-century
+pilgrims are not possessed of the true spirit of the devotee, and
+instead of approaching the object of their journey by the old-time
+way, along the beautiful hills of Surrey and Kent, they use the iron
+road which rushes them all unprepared into the city of the
+saint-martyr. But who will maintain that all those who formed the
+motley throng of the medieval pilgrimages came with their minds
+properly attuned, and who is prepared to say that because the majority
+of modern pilgrims consummate their aim by using the convenience of
+the railway they are less devout than Chaucer's merchant,
+serjeant-at-law, doctor of physic, and the rest who rode on
+horseback--the most convenient, rapid, and comfortable method of
+travel then available?
+
+There is, however, a material disadvantage suffered by those who use
+the railway, in that they miss the first view of the Cathedral city
+set in the midst of soft-swelling eocene hills, which comes as the
+first stage of the gradual unfolding of the tragic story. The
+lukewarm pilgrim should therefore remember that he will add vastly to
+the richness of his impressions if he deserts his train at Selling or
+Chartham and walks the rest of the way over Harbledown, where he will
+see the little city of the Middle Ages encircled with its ancient wall
+and crowned by the towers of its cathedral very much as did the
+cosmopolitan groups of travel-soiled men and women who for century
+after century feasted their eyes from the selfsame spot.
+
+[Illustration: CHRIST CHURCH GATEWAY, CANTERBURY.
+This beautiful entrance to the Cathedral precincts was built between
+1507 and 1517. The richly sculptured stone has weathered exceedingly.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+THE STORY OF CANTERBURY
+
+
+It would be a mistake to imagine that it solely was due to that bloody
+deed perpetrated on a certain December afternoon back in Norman times
+that Canterbury occupies a place of such pre-eminence in English
+history, for the city was ancient before the days of Thomas of
+Canterbury; and in this short chapter it is the writer's endeavour to
+indicate the position of that tragic occurrence in the chronology of
+the former Kentish capital.
+
+The earliest people who have left evidence of their existence near
+Canterbury belong to the Palaeolithic Age; but as it is not known
+whether this remote prehistoric population occupied the actual site,
+or even whether the valley may not have then been a salt-water creek,
+it is wiser in this brief sketch to pass over these primitive people
+and the lake-dwellers who, after a considerable interval, were
+possibly their successors, and come to the surer ground of history.
+This brings us to the early Roman invasions of Britain and Julius
+CA|sar's description of the people of Kent, whose civilization he found
+on a higher level than in the other parts he penetrated. He described
+them as being little different in their manner of living from the
+Gauls, whose houses were built of planks and willow-branches, roofed
+with thatch, and were large and circular in form, but he adds:
+
+ All the Britons dye themselves with woad, which gives them a
+ bluish colour, and so makes them very dreadful in battle. They
+ have long hair, and shave all the body except the head and
+ upper lip.
+
+These people, owning allegiance to various chiefs and living in camps
+or villages defended by earthen ramparts, were attacked by the Roman
+expeditions which invaded Britain in the opening years of the
+Christian Era, and there is evidence for believing that there was a
+British settlement of considerable importance on the site of
+Canterbury. Of this there remains a lofty artificial mound, now known
+as the Dane John--another form of the familiar donjon. The Romans
+called it Durovernum, a name perhaps derived from the British
+Derwhern, and although their historians are curiously silent in
+regard to the place there cannot be any doubt that the town rose to
+great importance in the later years of the four centuries of the Roman
+occupation of Britain. A glance at a map of the Roman roads in Kent
+shows Durovernum as a centre for five great ways leading from the
+coast towns of Portus Lemanis (Lymne), Portus Dubris (Dover), Portus
+Ritupis (Richborough, near Sandwich), Regulbium (Reculver), and also
+the Isle of Thanet, and from this important centre the Watling Street
+ran straight to Londinium. These roads all converge upon the spot
+where the River Stour became a tidal estuary and where it was
+fordable, and all who arrived or departed from the ports nearest to
+Gaul would therefore of necessity pass that way. Another indication of
+the size of the town is found in the five Roman burial-places
+discovered close to Canterbury, and if anything else were needed it is
+only necessary to look at the walls of St. Augustine's Abbey and many
+other buildings of the Middle Ages to see the large quantities of
+Roman material then available. Wherever any excavation has taken place
+in the heart of the present city, the foundations of Roman buildings
+with tesselated pavements and quantities of pottery, small objects of
+domestic use, and coins have been brought to light. These remains are
+all far beneath the present surface, a most significant fact in
+relation to the transition period between Roman and Saxon Canterbury.
+
+The Romans having finally abandoned Britain early in the fifth
+century, the invasions of the Anglo-Saxons began to take a permanent
+form, and the Jutes gained possession of the south-eastern corner of
+England. During the period of struggle between the rival groups of
+invaders Durovernum must have been entirely abandoned by the Britons,
+and the conquerors, having reduced the city to a shapeless ruin,
+appear to have allowed it to become over-grown to such an extent that
+when, after a lapse of perhaps a whole century, the town was rebuilt,
+no attempt was made to dig down to the former surface. The new
+buildings therefore arose with their foundations some feet above the
+original level of the Romano-British city. So complete was the gap
+between the destroyed Durovernum and the Saxon town which eventually
+grew up that men had had time to forget the old name, and, finding it
+necessary to invent one, called it Cantwarabyrig, which meant the
+city of the men of Kent. This title reveals the fact that the new
+settlers had by this time fixed their limits in Kent, and that they
+had found this site at the junction of all the Roman roads the most
+convenient for their capital. It was probably not until Ethelbert had
+begun to reign in 561 that Canterbury became the most important place
+in Kent, and at that time the site of the Cathedral was outside the
+town walls. Ethelbert, it should be mentioned, had extended his power
+so far beyond the confines of Kent that he had authority as far north
+as the Humber, and Bede writes of "the city of Canterbury, which was
+the metropolis of all his dominions."
+
+Up to the year 597 this Saxon capital, of practically all
+south-eastern England, was completely heathen, saving only the King's
+Frankish wife Bertha and Bishop Luidhard, who had come over as her
+chaplain about the year 575, when the marriage with the heathen
+Ethelbert had taken place. But in the year 597, that famous landmark
+in the Christianizing of Saxon England, Augustine, landed--if Bede may
+be trusted for a topographical detail of this character--on the island
+of Ebbsfleet, where Hengist and Horsa had previously found a haven
+for their vessels. This is now part of the corner of Kent, called
+Thanet, and is an island no longer. There Ethelbert, in that generous
+and broad-minded speech, familiar to all students of English history,
+while expressing himself as content with the gods of his forefathers
+(these included Thor, Woden, Freya, and the rest), yet would place no
+obstacles in the way of these missionaries of new and strange ideas.
+He even provided them with quarters in Canterbury, and in the old
+church of St. Martin outside the city, where Queen Bertha had been in
+the habit of worshipping with her chaplain, Augustine and his monks
+began to preach and instruct all who cared to listen. It seems
+unlikely that the influence of the queen and her good chaplain should
+have been entirely without results, and it is quite possible that
+Augustine found the ground prepared for the seed he diligently began
+to sow. Bishop Luidhard, whose name should always be linked with that
+of St. Augustine, appears to have died soon after the arrival of Pope
+Gregory's mission, and his remains were eventually placed in a golden
+chest in the church of Saints Peter and Paul, afterwards St.
+Augustine's.
+
+The zeal and enthusiasm of the band of missionaries began to bring in
+many converts. Ethelbert himself consented to be baptized on June 2 in
+the year of Augustine's landing, and the Saxons soon began to embrace
+the new faith in thousands, so that in a very few years the
+Christianizing of England had made such progress that Canterbury
+became the headquarters of the Christian Church in England, a position
+it has held without interruption ever since--a period of over 1,300
+years. It took England nearly nine centuries to make up its mind to
+rid itself of the stultifying authority of the Bishop of Rome and to
+shake itself free from monasticism and the various forms of idolatrous
+worship which grew up in the sultry atmosphere of the Papal Church;
+but these great changes have been evolved, and still the ancient city
+of Canterbury, hallowed with so many memories of saintly lives,
+continues to be the metropolis of the Established Church of England.
+And the imminence of further change carries with it no danger of any
+break in this long association of Canterbury with ecclesiastical
+control, for if in the slow grinding of the wheels of Time there
+should cease to be a State Church in this land, the organization of
+the churches holding to the Elizabethan form of worship will no doubt
+continue to be centred and focussed at Canterbury.
+
+[Illustration: CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM THE NORTH WEST.
+The state central or "Bell Harry" Tower is one of the most beautiful
+works of the Perpendicular period in existence.]
+
+As the first church mentioned in history associated with Christian
+worship St. Martin's occupies a unique position, and yet the fabric of
+the little building does not conclusively prove that it is even in
+part the actual church of this fascinating period. Cautious
+archaeologists, represented by Mr. J. T. Micklethwaite, regard the
+earliest work in St. Martin's as belonging to the Saxon period, Roman
+materials having merely been worked up by the later builders. On the
+other hand, there are various careful antiquaries who are willing to
+accept the oldest parts of the church as Roman, and claim that St.
+Martin's is a Christian church put up during the Roman occupation.
+Perhaps the problem will be solved by further discoveries, but until
+then it seems wiser to regard St. Martin's as being in part a very
+early Saxon building, very probably standing on the site of the
+restored Roman church in which Queen Bertha worshipped before
+Augustine's arrival. Even if it were possible to state that parts of
+the walls were Roman, it would not be an easy matter to say whether
+the building were older than the two early Christian churches of
+North Cornwall, preserved through the ages by the drifting sand of
+that exposed coastline; therefore, to write, as so many have done,
+that St. Martin's is the oldest Christian church in England, is not
+justified by the facts. Besides St. Martin's, William Thorne, a
+fourteenth century chronicler, makes mention of "a temple or
+idol-place where Ethelbert had been wont to pray and to sacrifice to
+demons," and this building, instead of being destroyed, was purged
+from its defilements and idols and hallowed by Augustine when he
+dedicated it to St. Pancras the Roman boy-martyr. When the site, about
+halfway between St. Martin's and St. Augustine's, was excavated in
+1901, it was found to possess a nave about 47 feet long by 26 feet
+wide, with an apsidal chancel nearly the same width and depth
+separated from the nave by four Roman columns, and Mr. W.H. St. John
+Hope, of the Society of Antiquaries, who carried out the operations
+with Canon Routledge, has suggested that this may be the first church
+built by Augustine out of Roman materials ready to hand, while the
+larger one, dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, a little to the west,
+was slowly being constructed. It was not finished when, in 605,
+Augustine died, and eventually the dedication included the canonized
+first archbishop of the English Church, who was buried in the building
+when it was finished. The other great figures of the period--Ethelbert
+and his Queen, and her chaplain--were also laid to rest in the church.
+A few years ago it was only possible to form an idea of this large
+structure from the Norman north wall of the nave and part of the
+north-west tower, but now that nearly the whole of the eastern end has
+been excavated one can see the underground portion of practically all
+the east end and part of the north transept. Ethelbert's son, Eadbald,
+having been converted two years after his accession, built another
+church east of that of Saints Peter and Paul, and this was joined on
+to the abbey church when the east end was extended about the time of
+the Norman Conquest. At the same time as he began the monastery
+subsequently called after him, Augustine appears to have made his
+headquarters close to another early Christian church within the walls
+of the Saxon city. This, according to Bede, was hallowed "in the name
+of the Holy Saviour," and thus arose the name Christ Church--the name
+the cathedral now bears. In these early times there were therefore
+five Christian churches either restored or under construction, and
+they were all roughly in a line running east and west. First there was
+Christ Church and Augustine's residence--eventually the priory--within
+the walls, then the embryo abbey of Saints Peter and Paul, with the
+chapel of St. Mary a little to the east. Farther still was the church
+of St. Pancras, and farthest from the city walls, on its little hill,
+St. Martin's. There are other traces of Saxon work in the church of
+St. Mildred near the castle, but this is much later than anything that
+has been discovered on the other sites, and Dr. Cox points out what he
+claims as pre-Conquest work in St. Dunstan's outside the city, on the
+Whitstable Road.
+
+Canterbury appears to have grown and prospered in spite of various
+attacks made by the Danes until the year 1011, when the city, after a
+defence lasting nearly three weeks, fell into the hands of the
+invaders through treachery from within. Alphege, the good old
+archbishop, was obliged to witness the savagery of the Danes when they
+burst through the gates and began a horrible slaughter, which included
+the monks of Christ Church, and it is said that about 7,000 Saxons
+perished. Not content with all this butchery, they burnt the
+cathedral. Archbishop Alphege was carried off by the victorious Danes,
+who at Greenwich gave way to drunken excesses, and in brutal fashion
+killed their prisoner. The body was brought from London, where it had
+been buried, back to Canterbury ten years later by Canute, the first
+Danish King of England, who made what atonement he could by lending
+his freshly painted state barge for the ceremonious translation of the
+martyr's remains. Arrived at Canterbury, the King proceeded to further
+demonstrate his submission to the Church his people had devastated by
+hanging up his crown in the cathedral which Alphege's successor,
+Archbishop Living, had reroofed. Canute, having made a journey to Rome
+in 1031, among other pious resolutions, declared that he would amend
+his life and conversation, and it was with his help that the Saxon
+cathedral was properly repaired and decorated.
+
+During the year following the Norman Conquest a fire began in
+Canterbury, which, besides destroying many houses, reduced the
+unfortunate cathedral to a roofless ruin once more. Three years
+later, in 1070, when Lanfranc was made the first Norman archbishop, he
+decided that the Saxon walls were worthless, and he swept away every
+trace of the building, which may have been partially Roman, before
+proceeding to erect a larger and grander pile in the Norman style
+familiar to him. One feature of the original church has, nevertheless,
+left its mark on the Norman cathedral. This was a crypt described by
+Eadmer, the monkish historian, who, as a boy, saw the Saxon church
+being demolished. It was only a small affair, but it must have been
+the most remarkable feature of the comparatively small oblong
+building, for it was not, properly speaking, a crypt at all, but an
+undercroft beneath the eastern altars. "To reach these altars," says
+Eadmer, "a certain crypt, which the Romans call a confessionary, had
+to be ascended by means of several steps from the choir of the
+singers. Thus the Norman archbishop, in planning a larger cathedral,
+constructed a crypt under the choir of his new building, and the steps
+one ascends to-day are there as the direct outcome of the structural
+methods of rude Saxon times."
+
+Lanfranc completed his new cathedral in 1077, and in his lifetime he
+also founded the great Benedictine priory of Christ Church, whose
+considerable remains add so much medievalism to the surroundings of
+the vast cathedral. Anselm succeeded Lanfranc after an interval of a
+few years, during which Rufus found it exceedingly desirable to keep
+the see vacant while the revenues were diverted into the royal
+coffers, and scarcely twenty years after his predecessor's church was
+finished, Prior Ernulph pulled down the east end and constructed in
+its place the magnificent Norman choir, with its transepts and chapels
+standing with various alterations to-day. This great work was finished
+by Prior Conrad, who succeeded Ernulph, and the noble work, which
+became known as Conrad's Choir, was consecrated in 1130 by Archbishop
+de Corbeuil. To make this bald statement and omit to mention the
+ceremony attending it would be misleading; for not only were Henry I.
+and David of Scotland present, but Canterbury saw such a gathering of
+dignitaries of Church and State with their splendid retinues that the
+historian found nothing to compare with it but Solomon's dedication of
+the Temple!
+
+This splendid church, representing the finest achievement of Norman
+master-builders and workmen, rising high above the domestic quarters
+of the monastery and standing forth conspicuously from every part of
+the little walled city, then consisting, to a considerable extent, of
+low wooden houses, had now reached the stage in its development when
+it was to be the scene of the murder which was to make Canterbury the
+most famous resort of pilgrims in Europe. This occurred forty years
+later; but no change in the great Norman church had taken place in
+that period.
+
+So thrilling is the whole story of Becket's murder that there is every
+temptation to tell again the tale of Henry II.'s hasty exclamation,
+and the headlong journey from Normandy to Canterbury made by those
+four knights whose foul deed history has not ceased to condemn; but
+for a full account the reader is advised to turn to Dean Stanley's
+"Historical Memorials of Canterbury." It was in the same year and the
+same month as his death that Becket had returned from exile to
+Canterbury after an absence of six years, and at the close of a decade
+of continual struggle with the King. The Archbishop, having landed at
+Sandwich on his arrival from France, had been received with the
+greatest enthusiasm, and the people of Canterbury showed their
+delight in every possible manner. There were imposing banquets, and
+hangings of silk were put up in the cathedral for the great occasion;
+but at the end of this December, on the gloomy afternoon of the 29th,
+the four murderers arrived in the city. The day was a Tuesday, the day
+on which all the great events of Becket's life had taken place; for
+not only had he been born on a Tuesday, but on that day he had been
+exiled, on that day he had been warned of his impending martyrdom, and
+on that day he had returned from exile.
+
+[Illustration: THE "ANGEL" OR "BELL HARRY" TOWER AND THE BAPTISTERY.
+The massive Norman work is seen here in strong contrast with the
+lightness and delicacy of the Perpendicular tower.]
+
+While leaving the long story to be told with the amazingly ample
+detail Dean Stanley was able to employ, one is tempted to quote his
+account of the first interview between Becket and the four knights,
+for too often the memory recalls nearly every fact of the murder
+except the indictment, if it may be so called. The four knights had
+discarded their weapons and concealed their armour under the cloak and
+gown of ordinary life on entering the cathedral precincts, so that on
+their first appearance in the Archbishop's private room their aspect
+was sinister without being immediately threatening. Becket had just
+finished dinner, and was seated on his couch talking to his friends
+when the four knights were announced, and he pointedly continued, his
+conversation with the monk who sat by him and on whose shoulder he was
+leaning.
+
+ They on their part entered without a word, beyond a greeting
+ exchanged in a whisper to the attendants who stood near the
+ door, and then marched straight to where the Archbishop sate,
+ and placed themselves on the floor at his feet, among the
+ clergy who were reclining around. Radulf the archer sate
+ behind them, on the boards. Becket now turned round for the
+ first time, and gazed steadfastly on each in silence, which he
+ at last broke by saluting Tracy by name. The conspirators
+ continued to look mutely at each other, till Fitzurse, who
+ throughout took the lead, replied with a scornful expression,
+ "God help you!" Becket's face grew crimson, and he glanced
+ round at their countenances, which seemed to gather fire from
+ Fitzurse's speech. Fitzurse again broke forth: "We have a
+ message from the King over the water--tell us whether you will
+ hear it in private, or in the hearing of all." "As you wish,"
+ said the Archbishop. "Nay, as _you_ wish," said Fitzurse.
+ "Nay, as _you_ wish," said Becket. The monks, at the
+ Archbishop's intimation, withdrew into an adjoining room; but
+ the doorkeeper ran up and kept the door ajar, that they might
+ see from the outside what was going on.
+
+
+Before the knights began the recital of their complaints, however,
+Becket appears to have become alarmed at the demeanour of the four
+men, who afterwards admitted that they thought of killing him then and
+there with the only weapon that was handy--a cross-staff that lay at
+his feet.
+
+ The monks hurried back, and Fitzurse, apparently calmed by
+ their presence, resumed his statement of the complaints of the
+ King. The complaints--which are given by the various
+ chroniclers in very different words--were three in number.
+ "The King over the water commands you to perform your duty to
+ the King on this side of the water, instead of taking away his
+ crown." "Rather than take away his crown," replied Becket, "I
+ would give him three or four crowns." "You have excited
+ disturbances in the kingdom, and the King requires you to
+ answer for them at his court." "Never," said the Archbishop,
+ "shall the sea again come between me and my Church, unless I
+ am dragged thence by the feet." "You have excommunicated the
+ bishops, and you must absolve them." "It was not I," replied
+ Becket, "but the Pope, and you must go to him for absolution."
+
+[Illustration: THE CHAPEL OF "OUR LADY" IN THE UNDERCROFT OF THE
+ CATHEDRAL.
+Being entirely above the ground this is not a crypt as it is so often
+miscalled. The morning light in winter fills the spaces between the
+massive Norman piers.]
+
+After some more stormy words the knights became irritated by Becket's
+contradictions, and swore "by God's wounds" that they had endured
+enough, but Becket, putting aside John of Salisbury's suggestion that
+he should speak privately to the angry knights, began to complain of
+the grievances and insults he had himself received during the preceding
+week: "They have attacked my servants," he said; "they have cut off my
+sumpter-mule's tail; they have carried off the casks of wine that were
+the King's own gift." To this Hugh de Moreville, who was the least
+aggressive of the four, replied: "Why did you not complain to the King
+of these outrages? Why did you take upon yourself to punish them by
+your own authority?" But Becket, turning sharply towards him, said:
+"Hugh! how proudly you lift up your head! When the rights of the
+Church are violated, I shall wait for no man's permission to avenge
+them. I will give to the King the things that are the King's, but to
+God the things that are God's. It is my business, and I alone will see
+to it." Taking up such an attitude in front of four men who had come
+hot-foot to Canterbury with the express determination to seek an
+excuse for killing him, Becket was sealing his own fate.
+
+ For the first time in the interview the Archbishop had assumed
+ an attitude of defiance; the fury of the knights broke at once
+ through the bonds which had partially restrained it, and
+ displayed itself openly in those impassioned gestures which
+ are now confined to the half-civilized nations of the South
+ and East, but which seem to have been natural to all classes
+ of medieval Europe. Their eyes flashed fire, they sprang upon
+ their feet, and, rushing close up to him, gnashed their teeth,
+ twisting their long gloves, and wildly threw their arms above
+ their heads. Fitzurse exclaimed: "You threaten us--you
+ threaten us! are you going to excommunicate us all?"
+
+Becket sprang up from his couch at this insulting demonstration, and
+in the state of great excitement into which he could fall when roused,
+he flung down his defiant challenge that all the swords in England
+could not shake his obedience to the Pope. The four knights, goaded to
+fury by other passionate words, left him, shouting, "To arms! to
+arms!" They made their way with an excited throng to the great
+gateway, where they armed, while the doors were closed to shut off the
+monastery from communication with the town. The Archbishop seems to
+have been fully alive to his danger, and yet he persistently refused
+to take the smallest measure for his safety, opening with his own
+hands the door from the cloisters into the north transept which some
+of the monks had closed and barred immediately after they had dragged
+the Archbishop into the nearly dark building.
+
+Vespers had just begun when the murderers entered, but the singing of
+that service was never completed. The fear of sacrilege induced the
+knights to try to drag the defenceless Archbishop out of the
+Cathedral, but he struggled with such vigour, flinging one of the men
+down on the stone floor, that they gave up the attempt and killed him
+with three or four sword strokes, the last of which, as he lay prone,
+was delivered by Richard le Bret, or the Breton, and so tremendous was
+the force with which it was delivered that the crown of the head was
+severed from the skull and the sword broke in two on the pavement.
+
+Canterbury being much divided in its attachment to Becket, the
+murderers found escape easy, and the general regrets most expressed
+seem to have been at the sacrilege rather than at the murder.
+
+It is almost incredible how rapidly Becket became St. Thomas of
+Canterbury. Within a few hours of the tragic scene, when, night having
+fallen and the great church being closed and deserted, Osbert, the
+Archbishop's chamberlain, entering with a light in his hand, found his
+master's body lying on its face, with the frightful wound exposed, the
+monks had kissed the hands and feet of the corpse and called him by
+the name of Saint Thomas. What appears to have raised the fraternity
+to this enthusiastic anticipation of the canonization, officially
+announced at Westminster in 1173, was the discovery that Becket had on
+beneath his outer robes, and the many other garments he wore, the
+black cowled cloak of the Benedictines, and next to his skin a
+hair-cloth shirt of unusual roughness. When the body was being
+prepared for the tomb this shirt was found to be easily removable for
+the daily scourging Becket had been in the habit of enduring, the
+marks of the stripes administered on the previous day being plainly
+visible. Dean Stanley adds another fact not easy to be believed by
+those who have never become intimate with the practices of medieval
+monasticism:
+
+ Such austerity had hitherto been unknown to English saints,
+ and the marvel was increased by the sight--to our notions so
+ revolting--of the innumerable vermin with which the hair-cloth
+ abounded--boiling over with them, as one account describes it,
+ like water in a simmering cauldron. At the dreadful sight all
+ the enthusiasm of the previous night revived with double
+ ardour. They looked at one another in silent wonder, then
+ exclaimed, "See, see what a true monk he was, and we knew it
+ not!" and burst into alternate fits of weeping and laughter,
+ between the sorrow at having lost such a head and the joy of
+ having found such a saint.
+
+[Illustration; THE CHAPEL OF ST. MICHAEL OR THE WARRIORS' CHAPEL.
+It is one of the most interesting Chapels in the Cathedral, containing
+the tomb of Stephen Langton and in the centre of the drawing that of
+Lady Margaret Holland and her two husbands.]
+
+Almost immediately the superstitious belief in the efficacy of a
+martyr's blood made everyone who was permitted to approach Becket's
+body anxious to obtain a scrap of a blood-stained garment to soak in
+water with which to anoint the eyes! In a short time many parts of the
+clothes had been given away to the poor folk of Canterbury; but as
+soon as the miracle-working properties came to be properly understood
+these precious shreds of the Archbishop's voluminous garments ran up
+in value until the possession of such a fragment meant wealth to the
+owner. Any relic of the body itself had still greater value, its
+efficacy in curing the multifarious ailments of the pilgrims who began
+to flock to Canterbury being immeasurable. And when the neighbouring
+monastery of St. Augustine burned with desire to possess a relic of
+St. Thomas they offered Roger, the keeper of the "Altars of the
+Martyrdom," the position of Abbot of their own abbey if he would
+contrive to bring with him a portion of Becket's skull. Roger had been
+specially chosen to guard this relic, but he succumbed to the
+temptation offered by the rival establishment outside the city walls,
+and having purloined the coveted fragment of the martyr, was duly
+installed in the highest office of St. Augustine's. Whether the whole
+affair was public property at the time does not fully appear, but
+those who recorded events at St. Augustine's did not hesitate to
+glory in the success of their scheme!
+
+So great was the popular execration of the murder that the autocratic
+Archbishop who had not inspired universal admiration in his lifetime
+was soon to become the most frequently invoked of all the calendar of
+saints, and the King himself, finding that his submission to the Papal
+legate at Avranches, two years after the crime, was not sufficient to
+avert the wrath of Heaven, which seemed to be visiting him in the form
+of rebellions and disasters in every part of his dominions, came to
+Canterbury in 1174 and went through a penance of extreme severity.
+Landing at Southampton, he came by the Pilgrims' Way to Harbledown,
+and so entered the ancient city. At the church of St. Dunstan, outside
+the walls, he took off his ordinary dress and walked barefoot through
+the streets to the monastery of Christ Church. It was a wet day, but
+being in the month of July the wearing of a shirt only with a cloak to
+keep off the rain could not have been the cause of very great physical
+discomfort apart from the cutting of his feet by stones on the road.
+At the Cathedral they took Henry to the tomb of the man whose death he
+had caused, and there he knelt and shed bitter tears, groaning and
+lamenting. After again regretting his rash words in an address read by
+Gilbert Foliot, Bishop of London, and promising to restore the rights
+and property of the Church, the King, kneeling at the tomb, wearing a
+hair-shirt with a woollen one above it, placed his head and shoulders
+in one of the openings in the tomb and there received five strokes
+with a monastic rod from each of the bishops and abbots present, and
+afterwards the eighty monks each administered three strokes. Henry was
+now quite absolved, but he remained for the whole night with his bare
+feet still muddy and in the same penitential garb.
+
+[Illustration: THE SCENE OF THE MARTYRDOM IN THE NORTH-WEST TRANSEPT
+ OF THE CATHEDRAL.
+Since the tragic death of Becket in 1170 practically everything in this
+portion of the Cathedral has been re-constructed.]
+
+Arriving in London, the King took to his bed, suffering from a
+dangerous fever, but a few days later, hearing from Richmond in
+Yorkshire that the Scots had been defeated and driven north, he
+recovered rapidly, believing implicitly, after the manner of his age,
+that this success was attributable to the penance he had undergone on
+the day before the battle.
+
+And so, through the savage murder of an archbishop and the severe
+penance of a king the archiepiscopal capital of England began to
+resound all over Europe, and the annual procession of pilgrims
+commenced to traverse the hills along the old road from Winchester to
+the little Norman city. Not by that way only did the vast crowds reach
+Canterbury, for there was scarcely a road that at some period of the
+year did not send its contribution to the throng which jostled through
+the gates into the narrow streets leading to the monastery gateway.
+Year after year wealth poured into the Cathedral coffers, and pilgrims
+went away lighter in spirits and in purse, but each carrying with them
+the little leaden bottle in which the infinitely diluted blood of the
+martyr mixed with water was distributed.
+
+Scarcely two months after Henry's penance the splendid choir of the
+Cathedral caught fire, and the townsfolk, in a state between grief and
+rage, found themselves unable to stay the progress of the flames until
+nearly everything that could burn had vanished. The nave suffered less
+than Conrad's splendid choir, and in that less ruined portion of the
+building a temporary altar was erected. But for this fire it might
+have been possible for the modern pilgrim to see the building as it
+appeared during the stirring events just recounted; for,
+notwithstanding the wealth of the monastery of Christ Church, it would
+have probably been thought desirable to retain the fabric as much as
+possible as it appeared in Becket's time. The fire came, however, and
+the choir was to a great extent rebuilt, but fortunately the chapels
+were only slightly affected.
+
+After careful inquiry the monastery decided to employ William of Sens
+as architect for the reconstruction, and the excellent work of this
+clever Norman craftsman lives to-day in the eastern portion of the
+cathedral church. He set to work soon after the fire; but, after four
+years of labour, was so much injured by a fall from the scaffolding
+that he was obliged to abandon his unfinished work and return to his
+native Normandy. Upon an Englishman named William devolved the task of
+completing the work.
+
+Either following the Frenchman's plans or adapting them to his own
+ideas, he finished the eastern parts of the church as they stand
+to-day in the year 1184. To one or both of these architects is due the
+unusual device of narrowing the choir to avoid altering the site of
+the Trinity Chapel of Becket's time. When the reconstruction of
+Conrad's Norman choir began, the Gothic style was just beginning to
+appear--an incipient tendency towards a pointed arch here and there
+which grew into what is called the Transitional Period; and to this
+style--in between the Romanesque semicircular arch, with its
+accompanying massiveness, and the first style of Gothic known as Early
+English, distinguished by the pointed arch, detached pillars
+decorating the triforium and clerestory, and elaborate mouldings and
+capitals--the choir belongs.
+
+When the whole of the east end of the cathedral was finished, nearly
+two centuries elapsed before any further change took place beyond the
+beginning of the chapter-house. At the commencement of that period,
+however, one of Canterbury's most magnificent scenes of ecclesiastical
+pomp occurred in connection with the remains of Becket. The summer of
+1220 saw the completion of the new shrine, and on July 7, the
+translation of the saint's remains was accomplished amid scenes of the
+most astonishing splendour, described by those who were present as
+being without a parallel in the history of England, the crowds
+including people from many foreign countries. Money was spent so
+lavishly on the entertainment of the innumerable persons of
+distinction who were present or took part in the great ceremony that
+for several years the finances of the see were unpleasantly
+reminiscent of the vast expenditure. Henry III. was present, but he
+was not old enough to be a bearer of the great iron-bound chest
+containing the poor remnants of Becket's human guise. In the presence
+of nearly every ecclesiastical dignitary in the land the remains were
+placed in the newly finished shrine all aglow with jewels set in gold
+and silver.
+
+Throughout the centuries succeeding this crowning glory of Canterbury,
+the little walled city saw many great functions apart from the yearly
+stream of pilgrims of every grade of society, and the huge doles of
+food and drink given away by the two great monasteries and the lesser
+houses of the city must have brought together an unwholesome concourse
+of the needy.
+
+Every fifty years after the translation of Becket's remains to the
+great shrine there was a special festival on July 7, when the people
+of the archiepiscopal city would find their resources strained to the
+very uttermost in feeding and housing the great assemblage. The
+martyrdom took place on December 29, but owing to the time of the
+year this festival did not draw so many as the summer one. All through
+the year the pilgrims came and went, and instead of falling off in
+numbers as the martyrdom receded, the popularity of the saint did not
+reach its zenith until the fifteenth century. Royal visits were of
+frequent occurrence, and of all the cities of England, after London,
+Canterbury would appear to have entertained more distinguished
+personages than any other.
+
+Between 1378 and 1411 Prior Chillenden pulled down Lanfranc's Norman
+nave and transept, which had survived the fire, and rebuilt them in
+the Perpendicular style, then prevailing. When this work was finished
+and the south-western tower had been completed, in 1481, there was not
+much left of the Norman priory church built by Lanfranc. The
+north-western or Arundel Tower, the last survival of Lanfranc's
+church, was rebuilt in 1840 and made to match its Perpendicular
+neighbour and the central tower--the external masterpiece of the
+cathedral--commenced by Prior Molashe in 1433, and completed by Prior
+Selling in the closing years of the century. The piers supporting this
+tower are Norman with a later casing, and the foundations of the nave
+walls belong to the same period.
+
+Having reached its greatest glories, Canterbury began to decline, and
+the dissolution of the two great monasteries and the demolishing of
+Becket's shrine must have been to the city, on a much larger scale,
+what the sweeping away of all the Shakespearean landmarks and relics
+from Stratford-on-Avon of to-day would imply. Nevertheless the city
+could afford to present Queen Elizabeth with l. 30 in a scented purse
+when she came thither in 1564, and the fact that Canterbury remained
+the chief centre of the authority and state of the English Church
+prevented the city from decaying. And even if this dignity had not
+remained the position of the town in relation to the comings and
+goings between England and France would have saved it from any sudden
+fall from its opulence and greatness before the dissolution.
+
+To touch even lightly on the subsequent history of Canterbury is not
+possible here, but its remarkably interesting story has been woven
+into a connected narrative by Dr. Cox, whose admirable book should be
+procured by all who may, by reading this little sketch, feel some of
+the glamour which the old city has for the writer.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE CATHEDRAL
+
+
+From the swelling green hills that look over Canterbury the distant
+glimpses of the Cathedral towers gleaming in that opalescent light
+that is the joy of a summer's morning in Kent, are so hauntingly
+beautiful that it is hard to believe that no disillusionment need be
+anticipated when the ancient city is entered and the great church seen
+at close quarters in the midst of a little city whose busy streets are
+agog with twentieth-century interests; and yet apprehension is
+entirely needless. From St. Dunstan's Church, where Henry II. stripped
+himself to a shirt and cloak on entering as a penitent, the road is
+lined with houses whose quietly picturesque frontages improve as the
+city proper is neared, and at the end of a most pleasing perspective
+stands the West Gate, a great stone gateway with round towers. Passing
+through the archway, one is at once in the narrow, jostling
+familiarity of the medieval St. Peter's Street. This crosses one at
+the arms of the Stour, and continues as High Street, becoming
+increasingly rich in overhanging storeys and curious sixteenth and
+seventeenth century fronts. One's eye glances rapidly from side to
+side, until, on the left, an exceedingly narrow turning gives a
+peep--such a peep as no other city can give unless it be Rouen--of the
+Cathedral's western towers rising above a sumptuously enriched stone
+gateway framed by tall, timbered houses, which nod towards one another
+in the neighbourly fashion of old cronies. It might be that the modern
+pilgrim, whose course is thus arrested by the vision he sees in this
+cleft called Mercery Lane, might have had some intention of going
+straight through the city to St. Martin's Church outside the walls to
+the east; but, if so, he is a strong man who resists the appeal of
+that narrow way belonging altogether to the world of romance. He
+stands for a moment transfixed, and then plunges into the opening,
+forgetful of his original purpose in the vivid reality before him. He
+walks down the lane trodden century after century by countless
+pilgrims and enters the Cathedral precincts through the weather-worn
+gateway, Prior Goldstone II. built between 1507 and 1517.
+
+From the archway the first near vision of the vast pile is unfolded,
+nearly the whole of the south side being visible. Immediately opposite
+are the two western towers, the nearer one finished in 1451 and the
+further rebuilt seventy years ago. The heavily buttressed nave, in the
+same Perpendicular style, stretches away to the transept, where the
+eye mounts up higher and higher until it rests on the clustered
+pinnacles of the _campanilis Angeli_--the Angel Tower, as Prior
+Molashe by some happy inspiration chose to call the imposing feature
+he added to his priory church. Beyond the south-west transept appears
+the plain Norman work of the larger and more massive transept to the
+east, with its beautiful staircase tower built into the inner angle, a
+part of Conrad's "glorious" choir. The remaining eastern parts of the
+Cathedral are not visible from this point, but as one walks
+eastwards--the other way is closed by the Archbishop's Palace--St.
+Anselm's Tower and Trinity Chapel with its corona, or semicircular
+extension, successively appear. Armed even with such brief information
+as that given in the preceding chapter, one gazes on these weathered
+cliffs of wrought stone with quickened breath, reading into the
+Transitional Norman work the strange story of the historic murder
+which brought so much wealth to this spot that the Cathedral in its
+present form is due to little else. To wipe out Becket's name
+completely Henry VIII. would have needed to demolish the whole church.
+
+[Illustration: THE DOORWAY INTO THE TRANSEPT OF MARTYRDOM FROM THE
+ CLOISTERS.
+It was through this doorway that Becket was followed by his murderers
+on that fatal afternoon in 1170 when the winter twilight was
+deepening.]
+
+The smooth turf along the south side of the Cathedral was used by the
+monks as a lay cemetery, and the fairly extensive space to the
+south-east shaded by old elms was their own burial-ground. All the
+monastic buildings were, contrary to the usual custom, on the north,
+for having only a narrow space between the south side of their church
+and the wall which Lanfranc built to secure the whole monastery, they
+naturally built on their extensive piece of ground running right up to
+the city wall to the north. Rounding the east end of the Cathedral,
+therefore, one finds under its ample shadow the remains of many of the
+domestic offices of the great priory. The great hall, with its kitchen
+and offices, is now part of the house of one of the prebendaries, and
+is not accessible to the public, but to the west are the interesting
+ruins of the infirmary. This was a long building with aisles, having
+a chapel opening out of it to the east, so that the sick brethren
+while lying in their beds could listen to the services. The south
+arcade of this chapel, consisting of four Norman arches with an
+ivy-grown clerestory, is still standing, and there are also some
+arches of the south side of the hall still showing the orange-pink
+colour produced on the stone by the disastrous fire in 1174, when
+Conrad's choir was reduced to a ruin. Adjoining the western end of the
+infirmary hall, and now a part of the Cathedral, is the beautiful
+Transitional-Norman treasury built on to St. Andrew's Chapel. Going to
+the right through a passage called the Dark Entry, one has the site of
+the prior's lodging on the right and on the left the infirmary
+cloister, and north of it the smaller dormitories of the monks. This
+passage-way leads through the vaulted Prior's Gate to the Green Court,
+a wide grassy space shaded by great limes and other trees. Framed
+between the spreading branches appears one of the most perfect
+groupings of the Angel Steeple with the piled-up roofs of the library,
+chapter house, and north-west transept as steps leading up to the vast
+tower, whose presence has an uplifting effect on the mind, scarcely
+equalled by the solemn immensity of the nave when one first
+enters--but the interior must wait for a little, while the remaining
+portions of the precincts are seen.
+
+Adjoining the Prior's Gate to the east is the building now used as the
+Deanery. It was built by Prior Goldstone in late Perpendicular times
+as a guest-house for the reception of strangers, but has been much
+altered since that time. At the north-west corner of the court is a
+very fine Norman gateway, now surrounded by the modern buildings of
+the King's School, and a little to the right is a Norman staircase,
+which by the goodness of Providence was allowed to remain when other
+destruction was in progress. This beautiful and unique example of a
+staircase of this early period is the most remarkable feature of the
+monastic remains. Beyond the Green Court Gate stood the almonry and a
+granary, and south of these buildings was the Archbishop's Palace, so
+ruined in Puritan times that the remains of a gateway in Palace Street
+is practically all that can now be seen. The present palace is quite
+modern. Coming back to the Cathedral, the remarkably picturesque
+little circular Lavatory Tower standing on late Norman open arches is
+noticeable in its shadowy seclusion among the lofty walls of the choir
+chapels. This is generally known as the Baptistery, but the name only
+began to be used when the font Bishop Warner presented to the
+Cathedral was placed there. In the little garden in front of the
+Lavatory Tower are two Roman columns brought from Reculver more than a
+century ago when the church there became a ruin. West of this tower is
+the library, standing on part of the site of the great dormitory, and
+opening on to the cloisters is the chapter house, commenced in 1304 by
+Prior Estria and finished in 1378 by Prior Chillenden. The windows at
+the east and west ends are the largest in the Cathedral.
+
+The great cloister, like the chapter house, largely owes its present
+appearance to Prior Chillenden, and is of exceedingly beautiful
+Perpendicular work with a splendid roof of lierne vaulting. Part of
+the south walk, with the doorway into the north transept--the
+successor to the Norman one through which Becket passed to his
+death--is shown in Mr. Biscombe Gardner's drawing facing page 43. If
+one enters the Cathedral from this point, especially if it should be
+in the twilight of a gloomy day, the atmosphere of the murder seems to
+be all about one, notwithstanding the rebuilding at a later period of
+the actual scene, but the historic entrance is by the south porch
+facing the great gate of the priory, and as it is still the usual
+place of entry this short account of the interior will begin at that
+point.
+
+[Illustration: THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE IN CANTERBURY.
+This picturesque house of the Franciscans, who came to the town in
+1220, stands on a branch of the Stour near Stour Street.]
+
+The porch belongs to the great period of rebuilding under Prior
+Chillenden, and, with its double row of canopied niches containing
+statues, is a beautiful feature, even with the central space which
+contained a representation of the martyrdom of Becket still vacant
+since the days of Henry VIII. There is in the first view of a vast
+Cathedral nave something almost overpowering in its sense of ordered
+beauty. It may be that average lives are so planless, so haphazard and
+without order that an achievement of such magnitude representing years
+of labour and concentrated thought in steadily following out a
+preconceived plan cannot fail to be a tremendous contrast to the
+smallness and pettiness of the majority--a contrast so great that it
+is mentally and spiritually a glimpse of the world of new
+possibilities attainable when once the feverish clinging to the ideals
+of the totem post is abandoned. This vast nave, reminiscent in many
+ways of Winchester, but far more satisfying, is generally bathed in a
+cool, greenish light, and is, in reality, a magnificent vestibule to
+the crowded interest beyond the transept. The effect of emptiness
+existing to-day is vastly different to what the pilgrims used to gaze
+upon while waiting their turn to be sprinkled with holy water, for
+before the Reformation and the complete sweeping away of the
+enrichments of Roman Catholic times the roof and walls were brilliant
+with paintings, the windows glowed with the warm colour of medieval
+glass, sumptuous hangings were suspended in many places and the altars
+twinkling with lighted candles added much gilding and colour to the
+aisles. All this barbarous crowding of colour and ornament, all this
+splendour of a ritual that appealed to an age capable of stilling the
+voice of conscience with an absolution obtainable for a few pence has
+passed away, but the vast building remains to tell of the reality of
+endeavour of one side of monastic life.
+
+[Illustration: THE PICTURESQUE GABLED HOUSES OF THE CANTERBURY
+ WEAVERS.
+The houses are reflected in the Stour just by King's Bridge, which
+joins the High Street to St. Peter's Street.]
+
+Across the great arch opening into the base of the tower is the
+supporting arch inserted by Prior Goldstone II., who, as already
+stated, built the Angel Steeple above the roof-line where it had been
+left by Chillenden. The arch has been called a disfigurement, and as
+it was not originally intended such an opinion may be justifiable, and
+yet the beauty of the reticulated stonework and the consummate skill
+which conceived the bold simplicity of design is so satisfying that it
+is scarcely possible to wish that it were absent. Beneath this flying
+arch appears the splendid western screen, approached by the flight of
+steps necessitated by the crypt or undercroft, for, being on perfectly
+level ground, there would have been no need for this unique feature.
+Among the monuments in the nave aisles those on the south include the
+memorial to Dean Farrar, who is buried in the great cloister, and
+William Broughton, Bishop of Sydney and Adelaide, who was a scholar at
+the King's School. In the north aisle the Tudor monument to Sir T.
+Hales showing his burial at sea is curious and picturesque, and other
+memorials are to Charles I.'s organist, Orlando Gibbons, and to the
+Archbishops Boyes and Sumner.
+
+The north-west transept, on the left as the steps to the choir are
+ascended, is the scene of Becket's martyrdom, and the vergers show the
+traditional spot where he fell. From the opposite transept, steps lead
+down to the undercroft, and also up to the south choir aisle--the way
+the pilgrims approached the shrine of St. Thomas. Also opening from
+the south-west transept is St. Michael's or the Warrior's Chapel, as
+it is now popularly called. In the illustration facing p. 30, the tomb
+of Lady Margaret Holland and her two husbands, John Beaufort, Earl of
+Somerset, and Thomas, Duke of Clarence, is shown occupying the centre
+of the chapel, but it just misses a more interesting, if much less
+beautiful, tomb, that of Stephen Langton, the courageous Archbishop
+who took such a leading part in forcing John to sign Magna Charta. The
+plain sarcophagus is partly within and partly outside the chapel, for
+when it was rebuilt in the fourteenth century it was extended so much
+to the east that it became necessary either to move Langton's tomb or
+else to make an arch in the wall, and the latter course was taken,
+with the curious result still to be seen. An astonishing contrast to
+the clear-sighted action of this Norman Archbishop was the attitude of
+Archbishop Howley (1828-1848) whose bitter hostility to the Reform
+Bill in 1831 so raised the anger of the people of Canterbury that they
+greeted his next arrival in the city with showers of stones and rotten
+eggs. In the midst of a howling mob the archiepiscopal carriage
+slowly struggled to the Deanery, bearing in it the amiable Churchman
+who was convinced that the Reform Bill was "mischievous in its
+tendency, and extremely dangerous to the fabric of the constitution."
+Such words are deeply interesting at the present day, when many people
+think they see, in progress on the same lines, dangers of an equally
+unfounded order.
+
+Passing along the south aisle of the choir, one gradually sees the
+whole of the elaborately devised eastern parts of the Cathedral as
+they were reconstructed by William of Sens and his English successor.
+The arcades of alternately circular and octagonal pillars have richly
+carved foliated capitals, and there is a lightness in form and a
+profusion of carving that tells of the coming of the Gothic
+style--indeed, so far in advance of the plain Norman work of Conrad is
+the present choir that the change to pure Early English is slight in
+comparison. In its great length this choir is unique, and in the
+lowness of its vaulted roof is also unusual, but this is accounted for
+by the undercroft beneath. From the centre of the choir the remarkable
+inward bend of the walls, necessitated through the determination not
+to alter the plan of the Trinity Chapel so hallowed by the memory of
+the Blessed St. Thomas, is very noticeable: to some extent it helps to
+give one an impression of the great length of the whole choir, with
+the chapel beyond. The eastern transepts and chapels still have their
+apsidal chapels almost as they were built by Conrad.
+
+Ascending some more steps, the modern pilgrim reaches Trinity Chapel,
+where his eyes, instead of falling upon a shrine encrusted with jewels
+and precious metals, merely look between the pillars upon an empty
+space. A vacant spot, however, can be eloquent enough, and to those
+who have read Chaucer's "Canterbury Tales" or the late Mr. Snowden
+Ward's "Canterbury Pilgrimages," if they have gone no farther in the
+study of this fascinating cult, the site of the shrine whose fame was
+European is able to give almost as deep a thrill as any experienced by
+the wayworn folk of the Middle Ages.
+
+By going closer and examining the pavement, a shallow groove appears
+marking the exact position of the base of the shrine. This was worn by
+the endless stream of pilgrims as they knelt in ecstasy before the
+object their eyes had longed to feast upon. To the west is a fine
+thirteenth-century mosaic pavement similar to that in the Confessor's
+Chapel at Westminster Abbey, to which it is very fitting to compare
+this chapel, for if it is not quite a "Chapel of the Kings" it has a
+King--Henry IV.--and a king's eldest son--the Black Prince--on either
+side, and after Westminster Abbey there was scarcely a more sacred
+spot in the kingdom than this.
+
+It was fitting that Henry IV. should be buried here, for he had taken
+a considerable amount of interest in the rebuilding of the nave, and
+had been liberal in his financial aid. The effigies of Henry and his
+second wife, Joan of Navarre, are believed to be faithful
+representations. Of the tomb of Edward the Black Prince, if space
+permitted, much could be said, for it is a magnificent piece of work
+apart from the historical interest that attaches to the soldier
+Prince, whose two great victories at Crecy and Poitiers have thrilled
+every English schoolboy during all the subsequent centuries. The
+strong iron railing has prevented any damage to the bronze or latten
+effigy, and except for the tarnishing and general deterioration of
+gilding and paint, one looks on the monument as it was erected in the
+days of chivalry. All the details of this tomb had been arranged by
+the Black Prince himself, and it was he who chose the Norman-French
+inscription all can plainly read to-day. Above the tomb is suspended a
+flat canopy of wood with an embattled moulding, and on the underside a
+much decayed painting of the Trinity, if one may call it such when the
+Dove is not represented. On the beam from which the canopy is
+suspended are hung the shield, helmet, velvet coat, brass gauntlets,
+and empty sword sheath which are the survivals of two complete suits,
+one for peace, and one for war, which were carried at the funeral as
+the Prince had ordered in his will.
+
+The eastern extension of the chapel is called Becket's Crown, a name
+tradition associates with the preservation in this chapel of a portion
+of St. Thomas's skull. One window contains old glass, and in the
+centre of the floor is placed the chair of Purbeck marble in which the
+Archbishops are enthroned. As it is no longer considered as old as the
+days of Augustine the title St. Augustine's Chair must be regarded as
+a figure of speech.
+
+By the most marvellous good fortune the wonderful series of windows in
+Trinity Chapel, illustrating the many cures wrought at the Shrine of
+St. Thomas, have come down to the present time almost unharmed, and
+this magnificent range of thirteenth-century glass is finer than
+anything else of its period in England. This glass is all prior to
+1220, and without it there would have been no representation of the
+first shrine at all. The colour in these windows is all subservient to
+the careful drawing of the pictures in the medallions, but in the
+north choir aisle there are some windows almost of the same period
+where the colour is as splendid as in any of the early windows at
+Chartres. For any description of the tombs of the archbishops there
+is, unfortunately, no space here. In the splendid crypt, besides the
+interest of the various periods of Norman and Transitional work, there
+is the rich Perpendicular screenwork of the Chapel of Our Lady of the
+Undercroft, and the Huguenot Chapel in what was the Black Prince's
+Chantry. In Tudor times the whole of the undercroft was given up to
+the French Protestant refugees, who, besides worshipping there, set up
+their looms in this hallowed portion of the Cathedral where the martyr
+was laid until his translation in 1220 and where Henry II. had passed
+the night after his severe penance. This very short description of
+such a building must be regarded as a mere introduction to the study
+of a vast subject, for in the space available nothing more is remotely
+possible.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE CITY
+
+
+A walled city generally holds more easily that elusive quality of
+romance for which the intelligent mind so often hungers than a town
+that has long ago discarded its old tower-studded girdle. And among
+the half-dozen or more English towns still possessed of their old
+mural defences Canterbury holds a high place, because within its walls
+there are still, in spite of railways and motors and the horrors of
+twentieth-century advertising, a hundred byways and nooks where the
+atmosphere of Elizabethan and pre-Reformation England still lurks. The
+wall itself does not stand out with the splendid completeness of York
+or Conway, and on the western side it has vanished altogether, while
+of the seven or eight gates, one only--the West Gate--has been saved;
+yet, while walking in the narrow, picturesque streets, it is difficult
+to forget that Canterbury is a walled city. Until well into last
+century all the gates were standing; but one by one these ornaments
+were destroyed by the city until one only was left, and even that
+would have been wantonly sacrificed to facilitate the entry of some
+circus caravans when, in 1850, Wombwell's menagerie visited the city!
+This vandal showman actually dared to request the Corporation to
+demolish the gate on account of the difficulty of getting his
+procession through the low arch. This is hard to believe, but it is
+infinitely more difficult to understand the aboriginal minds of some
+of the members of the Corporation when the records unblushingly reveal
+that the showman's preposterous request not only found both a proposer
+and a seconder, but that the votes were equally divided on the matter,
+and it was only the Mayor's casting vote which has preserved for the
+city its noble entry. Such a searchlight as this, throwing into
+dazzling clearness the almost entire lack of appreciation for its
+historic buildings possessed by the controllers of the city must make
+one grateful for the happy chances which have permitted so much that
+is old and picturesque to survive.
+
+[Illustration: WESTGATE, CANTERBURY, FROM WITHIN.
+This is the only survivor of the gates which studded the mediaeval
+walls of the city.]
+
+From the East Station there extends as far as the site of the old
+Riding Gate a well-preserved length of the wall with semicircular
+towers at intervals, and from opposite Lady Wootton's Green to St.
+Mary's Church, standing close to the site of North Gate, lengths of
+the wall, with a tower at intervals, form thrillingly medieval
+foregrounds for the Cathedral towers. In Pound Lane the wall continues
+in a furtive and rather desultory fashion until it ends at the West
+Gate. Opposite Lady Wootton's Green there still remain indications of
+a narrow postern, which is generally accepted as that through which
+Queen Bertha was wont to pass on her way to her devotions at St.
+Martin's Church. This, however, presupposes that the portion of the
+wall immediately surrounding this particular point is Roman or very
+Early Saxon, and also that the walls of the city occupied the same
+position, at least as far as this point, as those built at the end of
+the twelfth century.
+
+Mr. T. Godfrey Faussett's plan of Roman Canterbury appears to carry
+the wall just as far as this point, and then turns at an acute angle
+towards the south side of the Cathedral. Following the direction Queen
+Bertha would have taken brings one to the great gateway of St.
+Augustine's Abbey, the Benedictine monastery founded by Augustine on
+the land given for that purpose by Ethelbert. It was at first
+dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, and the original buildings were
+finished in 613. Having become the place of burial for the Kings of
+Kent and the Archbishops, the Abbey quite overshadowed the Priory of
+Christ Church, until in 758 Archbishop Cuthbert was secretly buried
+within the claustral confines of his own priory. At the Dissolution
+Henry converted the stately buildings into a palace, so that the royal
+visits, which had been of no infrequent occurrence in the days of
+monastic hospitality, continued; and while the lordly pile passed
+through the hands of various owners, Elizabeth, Charles I., and
+Charles II. paid visits on various occasions.
+
+A century ago, when appreciation of the architecture of the dead
+centuries when Englishmen built with superlative skill had ebbed to
+its lowest, the Abbey had sunk to inconceivably debased uses. The
+monastic kitchen had been converted into a public-house, and the great
+gateway--the finest structural relic of the Abbey--had become the
+entrance to a brewery, while cock-fighting took place in the state
+bedroom above. The pilgrims' guest hall, now the college dining-hall,
+had become a dancing-hall, and the ground, unoccupied by buildings,
+soil hallowed by the memories of so many saintly lives and associated
+with the momentous days when England was being released from the toils
+of pagan ignorance became known as "the Old Palace Tea-gardens." The
+popular mind had seemingly forgotten the original uses of the place
+they were desecrating with fireworks and variety shows.
+
+At last, in 1844, Mr. Beresford Hope rescued the half-destroyed
+remnants of the abbey-palace, and through his generosity the present
+missionary college was founded, and the buildings restored or
+reconstructed. A more happy idea could scarcely have been suggested
+than that of associating the abbey founded by the first missionary of
+Christianity to England with modern efforts to carry the light into
+the dark places of the earth. The much-restored gateway, built by
+Abbot Fyndon at the beginning of the fourteenth century, the
+guest-hall, and part of the memorial chapel, are the chief portions of
+the old structures incorporated into the buildings that surround three
+sides of the college quadrangle. Standing apart to the south is one of
+the huge walls of the nave of the abbey church, and to the east are
+the extensive excavations of the east end of the crypt and other
+fascinatingly early remains of the historic churches mentioned in an
+earlier chapter (p. 17).
+
+Leaving the Abbey grounds, and continuing to the east, one reaches in
+a few minutes the little church of St. Martin set on the knoll to
+which Queen Bertha directed her steps. It is, however, a
+disappointingly familiar type of Early English village church to the
+casual glance, and until the fabric and the remarkable font have been
+examined and discussed in the light of modern scientific archaeology it
+is difficult to appreciate the hoary antiquity of at least parts of
+the structure. To understand the indications of the Saxon, or possibly
+Roman, work in the fabric, and to know the reasons for considering the
+font a relic of Saxon times, it is scarcely possible to find a better
+instructor than Canon Routledge, whose little book is all one can
+desire.
+
+When the Cathedral, the Abbey, and St. Martin's Church have been
+visited, it is too often thought that Canterbury has yielded up all
+her treasures, but this is an amazingly mistaken idea. There still
+remain to be seen the Castle, the walls, the old inns, the many
+interesting examples of early domestic architecture, the remains of
+the lesser religious houses and hospitals, a wonderful array of
+interesting churches, and the excellent museum. Of the Castle the
+great Norman keep, completed about 1125, still stands, having been
+allowed to remain because the walls were found to be too hard to
+easily destroy; but up to the time of writing the Corporation has not
+purchased the immense shell, and it therefore remains a storage place
+for the coal of the adjoining gasworks. The remains of the buildings
+of the Black, or Preaching, Friars, and those of the Grey Friars, who
+belonged to the rule of St. Francis, are on islands formed by the
+Stour, and are marked in nearly every plan of the town. The hospitals
+include that of St. John the Baptist in North Gate Street, Eastbridge
+Hospital in St. Peter Street, and the Poor Priests' Hospital near
+Stour Street. Outside the city, at Harbledown, is the interesting old
+Hospital of St. Nicholas, a home for lepers, who were separately
+housed.
+
+Of the churches it would be easy to write a great deal, but there is
+merely space to point out that the only one lacking in interest is All
+Saints' in High Street. At St. Dunstan's the head of Sir Thomas More
+is preserved in a vault, but it is never possible to see it, and one
+must be content with the picturesque brick gateway of the Roper house
+in St. Dunstan's Street.
+
+[Illustration: PLAN OF CANTERBURY CASTLE.
+
+KEY TO NUMBERS.
+ 1. Door to Cloisters.
+ 2. Door In Cloisters.
+ 3. Dean's (or Lady) Chapel.
+ 4. St. Michael's Chapel.
+ 5. Baptistery.
+ 6. Library (Howleian).
+ 7. Treasury.
+ 8. Chapel of King Henry IV.
+ 9. Arundel Tower (N.W.).
+ 10. Dunstan Tower (S.W.).
+ 11. Entrance to French Church.
+ 12. Archbishop Benson.
+ 13. Bishop Parry.
+ 14. Archbishop Sumner.
+ 15. Sir T. Hales.
+ 16. Colonel Stuart.
+ 17. Dr. Beaney.
+ 18. Dean Fotherbye.
+ 19. Archbishop Chicheley.
+ 20. Archbishop Bourchier.
+ 21. Archbishop Kemp.
+ 22. Archbishop Sudbury.
+ 23. St. Dunstan (site).
+ 24. Archbishop Tait.
+ 25. King Henry IV.
+ 26. Edward, the Black Prince.
+ 27. Becket's Shrine (site).
+ 28. Cardinal Pole.
+ 29. Unknown.
+ 30. Archbishop Mepham.
+ 31. Archbishop Winchelsey.
+ 32. Henry de Estria.
+ 33. Stephen Langton.
+ 34. Archbishop's ancient Chair.
+ 35. Memorial to Dean Farrar.
+ 36. Wm. Broughton, Bishop of Sydney and Adelaide.
+ 37. Archbishop Boyes.
+ 38. Tomb of Dean Farrar.
+ 39. Tomb of Archbishop Temple.
+ 40. Two columns from Reculver.]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+Alphege, Archbishop, 19, 20
+Angel Steeple, 42, 44, 48
+Anglo-Saxon invasions, 12
+Archbishop's Palace, 42, 45
+Augustine, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 54, 59
+
+Becket, Thomas A , 5, 6, 23-28, 43, 47, 49, 52, 54
+Bertha (Ethelbert's Queen), 13, 14, 16, 58, 61
+Black Prince, 53, 54, 55
+Boyes, Archbishop, 49
+Bret, Richard le, 29
+Broughton, Bishop, 49
+
+CA|sar, Julius, 10
+Canute, 20
+Castle, the, 62
+Cathedral, the, 40-55
+Charles I., 59
+Charles II., 59
+Chartres, windows at, 55
+Chillenden, Prior, 38, 46, 47, 48
+Clarence, Thomas, Duke of, 50
+Conrad's choir, 34
+Conrad, Prior, 22, 51, 52
+Corbeuil, Archbishop de, 22
+Cuthbert, Archbishop, 59
+
+Dane John, the, 10
+Danes, the, 19, 20
+David I. of Scotland, 22
+Dover, 11
+
+Eadbald, 18
+Eadmer, 21
+Elizabeth, Queen, 39, 59
+Ernulph, Prior, 22
+Estria, Prior, 46
+Ethelbert, 13, 14, 17, 18, 59
+
+Farrar, Dean, 49
+Fitzurse, Reginald, 25, 26
+Foliot, Gilbert, 33
+Fyndon, Abbot, 60
+
+Gates of Canterbury, the, 56-58
+Gibbons, Orlando, 49
+Goldstone II., Prior, 48
+
+Hales, Sir T., tomb of, 49
+Harbledown, 8, 32, 62
+Hengist and Horsa, 13
+Henry I., 22
+Henry II., 23, 34, 40, 55
+Henry III., 37
+Henry IV., tomb of, 53
+Henry VIII., 5, 43, 47, 59
+Holland, Lady Margaret, 50
+Hospitals, medieval, 62
+Howley, Archbishop, 50
+Huguenot Chapel, 55
+
+Joan of Navarre, 53
+John, King, 50
+
+King's school, the, 45, 49
+
+Lady Wootton's Green, 58
+Lanfranc, Archbishop, 21, 22, 38, 43
+Langton, Stephen, 50
+Living, Archbishop, 20
+Luidhard, Bishop, 13
+Lymne, 11
+
+Magna Charta, 50
+Mercery Lane, 41
+Molashe, Prior, 38, 42
+More, Sir Thomas, 62
+Moreville, Hugh de, 27
+
+Norman staircase, 45
+
+Pilgrims' Way, the, 6, 32, 34
+Prior's Gate, 44, 45
+
+Reculver, 2, 46
+Reform Bill, the, 50, 51
+Religious houses, 62
+Richborough, 11
+Roman Canterbury, 10-12, 16, 58, 61
+
+St. Augustine's Abbey, 11, 14, 19, 31, 58-60
+St. Dunstan, Church of, 19, 32, 40, 62
+
+St. Martin, Church of, 14, 16, 17, 19, 41, 58
+St. Mildred, Church of, 19
+St. Pancras, Church of, 17, 19
+Salisbury, John of, 26
+Sandwich, 23
+Selling, Prior, 38
+Somerset, John Beaufort, Earl of, 50
+Stanley, Dean, 23, 24, 30
+Sumner, Archbishop, 49
+
+Thorn, William, 17
+Tracy, William de, 25
+
+Walls of the city, 56-59
+Warrior's Chapel, the, 50
+West gate, the, 56-57
+William of Sens, 35, 51
+William Rufus, 22
+William the Englishman, 35
+
+
+
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