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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:17:02 -0700 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/1378-0.txt b/1378-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ac75046 --- /dev/null +++ b/1378-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9410 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1378 *** + +THE LAND OF FOOTPRINTS + +by Stewart Edward White + +1913 + + + + +I. ON BOOKS OF ADVENTURE + +Books of sporting, travel, and adventure in countries little known to +the average reader naturally fall in two classes-neither, with a very +few exceptions, of great value. One class is perhaps the logical result +of the other. + +Of the first type is the book that is written to make the most of far +travels, to extract from adventure the last thrill, to impress the +awestricken reader with a full sense of the danger and hardship the +writer has undergone. Thus, if the latter takes out quite an ordinary +routine permit to go into certain districts, he makes the most of +travelling in “closed territory,” implying that he has obtained an +especial privilege, and has penetrated where few have gone before him. +As a matter of fact, the permit is issued merely that the authorities +may keep track of who is where. Anybody can get one. This class of +writer tells of shooting beasts at customary ranges of four and five +hundred yards. I remember one in especial who airily and as a matter +of fact killed all his antelope at such ranges. Most men have shot +occasional beasts at a quarter mile or so, but not airily nor as +a matter of fact: rather with thanksgiving and a certain amount of +surprise. The gentleman of whom I speak mentioned getting an eland at +seven hundred and fifty yards. By chance I happened to mention this to a +native Africander. + +“Yes,” said he, “I remember that; I was there.” + +This interested me-and I said so. + +“He made a long shot,” said I. + +“A GOOD long shot,” replied the Africander. + +“Did you pace the distance?” + +He laughed. “No,” said he, “the old chap was immensely delighted. 'Eight +hundred yards if it was an inch!' he cried.” + +“How far was it?” + +“About three hundred and fifty. But it was a long shot, all right.” + +And it was! Three hundred and fifty yards is a very long shot. It is +over four city blocks-New York size. But if you talk often enough and +glibly enough of “four and five hundred yards,” it does not sound like +much, does it? + +The same class of writer always gets all the thrills. He speaks of +“blanched cheeks,” of the “thrilling suspense,” and so on down the gamut +of the shilling shocker. His stuff makes good reading; there is no +doubt of that. The spellbound public likes it, and to that extent it has +fulfilled its mission. Also, the reader believes it to the letter-why +should he not? Only there is this curious result: he carries away in +his mind the impression of unreality, of a country impossible to +be understood and gauged and savoured by the ordinary human mental +equipment. It is interesting, just as are historical novels, or the +copper-riveted heroes of modern fiction, but it has no real relation +with human life. In the last analysis the inherent untruth of the +thing forces itself on him. He believes, but he does not apprehend; he +acknowledges the fact, but he cannot grasp its human quality. The affair +is interesting, but it is more or less concocted of pasteboard for his +amusement. Thus essential truth asserts its right. + +All this, you must understand, is probably not a deliberate attempt +to deceive. It is merely the recrudescence under the stimulus of a +brand-new environment of the boyish desire to be a hero. When a man +jumps back into the Pleistocene he digs up some of his ancestors' +cave-qualities. Among these is the desire for personal adornment. His +modern development of taste precludes skewers in the ears and polished +wire around the neck; so he adorns himself in qualities instead. It is +quite an engaging and diverting trait of character. The attitude of mind +it both presupposes and helps to bring about is too complicated for my +brief analysis. In itself it is no more blameworthy than the small boy's +pretence at Indians in the back yard; and no more praiseworthy than +infantile decoration with feathers. + +In its results, however, we are more concerned. Probably each of us has +his mental picture that passes as a symbol rather than an idea of the +different continents. This is usually a single picture-a deep river, +with forest, hanging snaky vines, anacondas and monkeys for the east +coast of South America, for example. It is built up in youth by chance +reading and chance pictures, and does as well as a pink place on the +map to stand for a part of the world concerning which we know nothing at +all. As time goes on we extend, expand, and modify this picture in the +light of what knowledge we may acquire. So the reading of many books +modifies and expands our first crude notions of Equatorial Africa. And +the result is, if we read enough of the sort I describe above, we build +the idea of an exciting, dangerous, extra-human continent, visited by +half-real people of the texture of the historical-fiction hero, who have +strange and interesting adventures which we could not possibly imagine +happening to ourselves. + +This type of book is directly responsible for the second sort. The +author of this is deadly afraid of being thought to brag of his +adventures. He feels constantly on him the amusedly critical eye of the +old-timer. When he comes to describe the first time a rhino dashed in +his direction, he remembers that old hunters, who have been so charged +hundreds of times, may read the book. Suddenly, in that light, the +adventure becomes pitifully unimportant. He sets down the fact that “we +met a rhino that turned a bit nasty, but after a shot in the shoulder +decided to leave us alone.” Throughout he keeps before his mind's eye +the imaginary audience of those who have done. He writes for them, +to please them, to convince them that he is not “swelled head,” nor +“cocky,” nor “fancies himself,” nor thinks he has done, been, or seen +anything wonderful. It is a good, healthy frame of mind to be in; but +it, no more than the other type, can produce books that leave on the +minds of the general public any impression of a country in relation to a +real human being. + +As a matter of fact, the same trouble is at the bottom of both failures. +The adventure writer, half unconsciously perhaps, has been too much +occupied play-acting himself into half-forgotten boyhood heroics. The +more modest man, with even more self-consciousness, has been thinking of +how he is going to appear in the eyes of the expert. Both have thought +of themselves before their work. This aspect of the matter would +probably vastly astonish the modest writer. + +If, then, one is to formulate an ideal toward which to write, he might +express it exactly in terms of man and environment. Those readers +desiring sheer exploration can get it in any library: those in search +of sheer romantic adventure can purchase plenty of it at any book-stall. +But the majority want something different from either of these. They +want, first of all, to know what the country is like-not in vague and +grandiose “word paintings,” nor in strange and foreign sounding words +and phrases, but in comparison with something they know. What is it +nearest like-Arizona? Surrey? Upper New York? Canada? Mexico? Or is it +totally different from anything, as is the Grand Canyon? When you look +out from your camp-any one camp-how far do you see, and what do you +see?-mountains in the distance, or a screen of vines or bamboo near +hand, or what? When you get up in the morning, what is the first thing +to do? What does a rhino look like, where he lives, and what did you do +the first time one came at you? I don't want you to tell me as though I +were either an old hunter or an admiring audience, or as though you were +afraid somebody might think you were making too much of the matter. I +want to know how you REALLY felt. Were you scared or nervous? or did you +become cool? Tell me frankly just how it was, so I can see the thing as +happening to a common everyday human being. Then, even at second-hand +and at ten thousand miles distance, I can enjoy it actually, humanly, +even though vicariously, speculating a bit over my pipe as to how I +would have liked it myself. + +Obviously, to write such a book the author must at the same time sink +his ego and exhibit frankly his personality. The paradox in this is only +apparent. He must forget either to strut or to blush with diffidence. +Neither audience should be forgotten, and neither should be exclusively +addressed. Never should he lose sight of the wholesome fact that old +hunters are to read and to weigh; never should he for a moment slip +into the belief that he is justified in addressing the expert alone. His +attitude should be that many men know more and have done more than he, +but that for one reason or another these men are not ready to transmit +their knowledge and experience. + +To set down the formulation of an ideal is one thing: to fulfil it is +another. In the following pages I cannot claim a fulfilment, but only an +attempt. The foregoing dissertation must be considered not as a promise, +but as an explanation. No one knows better than I how limited my +African experience is, both in time and extent, bounded as it is by East +Equatorial Africa and a year. Hundreds of men are better qualified than +myself to write just this book; but unfortunately they will not do it. + + + + +II. AFRICA + +In looking back on the multitudinous pictures that the word Africa +bids rise in my memory, four stand out more distinctly than the +others. Strangely enough, these are by no means all pictures of average +country-the sort of thing one would describe as typical. Perhaps, in a +way, they symbolize more the spirit of the country to me, for certainly +they represent but a small minority of its infinitely varied aspects. +But since we must make a start somewhere, and since for some reason +these four crowd most insistently in the recollection it might be well +to begin with them. + +Our camp was pitched under a single large mimosa tree near the edge of +a deep and narrow ravine down which a stream flowed. A semicircle of low +mountains hemmed us in at the distance of several miles. The other side +of the semicircle was occupied by the upthrow of a low rise blocking +off an horizon at its nearest point but a few hundred yards away. Trees +marked the course of the stream; low scattered bushes alternated with +open plain. The grass grew high. We had to cut it out to make camp. + +Nothing indicated that we were otherwise situated than in a very +pleasant, rather wide grass valley in the embrace of the mountains. Only +a walk of a few hundred yards atop the upthrow of the low rise revealed +the fact that it was in reality the lip of a bench, and that beyond +it the country fell away in sheer cliffs whose ultimate drop was some +fifteen hundred feet. One could sit atop and dangle his feet over +unguessed abysses. + +For a week we had been hunting for greater kudu. Each day Memba Sasa and +I went in one direction, while Mavrouki and Kongoni took another line. +We looked carefully for signs, but found none fresher than the month +before. Plenty of other game made the country interesting; but we were +after a shy and valuable prize, so dared not shoot lesser things. At +last, at the end of the week, Mavrouki came in with a tale of eight +lions seen in the low scrub across the stream. The kudu business was +about finished, as far as this place went, so we decided to take a look +for the lions. + +We ate by lantern and at the first light were ready to start. But at +that moment, across the slope of the rim a few hundred yards away, +appeared a small group of sing-sing. These are a beautiful big beast, +with widespread horns, proud and wonderful, like Landseer's stags, and +I wanted one of them very much. So I took the Springfield, and dropped +behind the line of some bushes. The stalk was of the ordinary sort. +One has to remain behind cover, to keep down wind, to make no quick +movements. Sometimes this takes considerable manoeuvring; especially, as +now, in the case of a small band fairly well scattered out for feeding. +Often after one has succeeded in placing them all safely behind the +scattered cover, a straggler will step out into view. Then the hunter +must stop short, must slowly, oh very, very slowly, sink down out of +sight; so slowly, in fact, that he must not seem to move, but rather to +melt imperceptibly away. Then he must take up his progress at a lower +plane of elevation. Perhaps he needs merely to stoop; or he may crawl +on hands and knees; or he may lie flat and hitch himself forward by his +toes, pushing his gun ahead. If one of the beasts suddenly looks +very intently in his direction, he must freeze into no matter what +uncomfortable position, and so remain an indefinite time. Even a +hotel-bred child to whom you have rashly made advances stares no longer +nor more intently than a buck that cannot make you out. + +I had no great difficulty with this lot, but slipped up quite +successfully to within one hundred and fifty yards. There I raised my +head behind a little bush to look. Three does grazed nearest me, their +coats rough against the chill of early morning. Up the slope were two +more does and two funny, fuzzy babies. An immature buck occupied the +extreme left with three young ladies. But the big buck, the leader, the +boss of the lot, I could not see anywhere. Of course he must be about, +and I craned my neck cautiously here and there trying to make him out. + +Suddenly, with one accord, all turned and began to trot rapidly away to +the right, their heads high. In the strange manner of animals, they had +received telepathic alarm, and had instantly obeyed. Then beyond and +far to the right I at last saw the beast I had been looking for. The old +villain had been watching me all the time! + +The little herd in single file made their way rapidly along the face +of the rise. They were headed in the direction of the stream. Now, I +happened to know that at this point the stream-canyon was bordered by +sheer cliffs. Therefore, the sing-sing must round the hill, and not +cross the stream. By running to the top of the hill I might catch a +glimpse of them somewhere below. So I started on a jog trot, trying to +hit the golden mean of speed that would still leave me breath to shoot. +This was an affair of some nicety in the tall grass. Just before I +reached the actual slope, however, I revised my schedule. The reason was +supplied by a rhino that came grunting to his feet about seventy yards +away. He had not seen me, and he had not smelled me, but the general +disturbance of all these events had broken into his early morning nap. +He looked to me like a person who is cross before breakfast, so I ducked +low and ran around him. The last I saw of him he was still standing +there, quite disgruntled, and evidently intending to write to the +directors about it. + +Arriving at the top, I looked eagerly down. The cliff fell away at an +impossible angle, but sheer below ran out a narrow bench fifty yards +wide. Around the point of the hill to my right-where the herd had gone-a +game trail dropped steeply to this bench. I arrived just in time to see +the sing-sing, still trotting, file across the bench and over its edge, +on some other invisible game trail, to continue their descent of the +cliff. The big buck brought up the rear. At the very edge he came to a +halt, and looked back, throwing his head up and his nose out so that the +heavy fur on his neck stood forward like a ruff. It was a last glimpse +of him, so I held my little best, and pulled trigger. + +This happened to be one of those shots I spoke of-which the perpetrator +accepts with a thankful and humble spirit. The sing-sing leaped high in +the air and plunged over the edge of the bench. I signalled the camp-in +plain sight-to come and get the head and meat, and sat down to wait. And +while waiting, I looked out on a scene that has since been to me one of +my four symbolizations of Africa. + +The morning was dull, with gray clouds through which at wide intervals +streamed broad bands of misty light. Below me the cliff fell away clear +to a gorge in the depths of which flowed a river. Then the land began +to rise, broken, sharp, tumbled, terrible, tier after tier, gorge +after gorge, one twisted range after the other, across a breathlessly +immeasurable distance. The prospect was full of shadows thrown by the +tumult of lava. In those shadows one imagined stranger abysses. Far down +to the right a long narrow lake inaugurated a flatter, alkali-whitened +country of low cliffs in long straight lines. Across the distances +proper to a dozen horizons the tumbled chaos heaved and fell. The eye +sought rest at the bounds usual to its accustomed world-and went on. +There was no roundness to the earth, no grateful curve to drop this +great fierce country beyond a healing horizon out of sight. The +immensity of primal space was in it, and the simplicity of primal +things-rough, unfinished, full of mystery. There was no colour. The +scene was done in slate gray, darkening to the opaque where a tiny +distant rain squall started; lightening in the nearer shadows to reveal +half-guessed peaks; brightening unexpectedly into broad short bands +of misty gray light slanting from the gray heavens above to the sombre +tortured immensity beneath. It was such a thing as Gustave Dore might +have imaged to serve as an abiding place for the fierce chaotic spirit +of the African wilderness. + +I sat there for some time hugging my knees, waiting for the men to come. +The tremendous landscape seemed to have been willed to immobility. The +rain squalls forty miles or more away did not appear to shift their +shadows; the rare slanting bands of light from the clouds were as +constant as though they were falling through cathedral windows. But +nearer at hand other things were forward. The birds, thousands of them, +were doing their best to cheer things up. The roucoulements of doves +rose from the bushes down the face of the cliffs; the bell bird uttered +his clear ringing note; the chime bird gave his celebrated imitation of +a really gentlemanly sixty-horse power touring car hinting you out of +the way with the mellowness of a chimed horn; the bottle bird poured +gallons of guggling essence of happiness from his silver jug. From +the direction of camp, evidently jumped by the boys, a steinbuck loped +gracefully, pausing every few minutes to look back, his dainty legs +tense, his sensitive ears pointed toward the direction of disturbance. + +And now, along the face of the cliff, I make out the flashing of much +movement, half glimpsed through the bushes. Soon a fine old-man baboon, +his tail arched after the dandified fashion of the baboon aristocracy +stepped out, looked around, and bounded forward. Other old men followed +him, and then the young men, and a miscellaneous lot of half-grown +youngsters. The ladies brought up the rear, with the babies. These rode +their mothers' backs, clinging desperately while they leaped along, for +all the world like the pathetic monkey “jockeys” one sees strapped to +the backs of big dogs in circuses. When they had approached to within +fifty yards, remarked “hullo!” to them. Instantly they all stopped. +Those in front stood up on their hind legs; those behind clambered to +points of vantage on rocks and the tops of small bushes: They all took +a good long look at me. Then they told me what they thought about me +personally, the fact of my being there, and the rude way I had startled +them. Their remarks were neither complimentary nor refined. The old +men, in especial, got quite profane, and screamed excited billingsgate. +Finally they all stopped at once, dropped on all fours, and loped away, +their ridiculous long tails curved in a half arc. Then for the first +time I noticed that, under cover of the insults, the women and children +had silently retired. Once more I was left to the familiar gentle bird +calls, and the vast silence of the wilderness beyond. + +The second picture, also, was a view from a height, but of a totally +different character. It was also, perhaps, more typical of a greater +part of East Equatorial Africa. Four of us were hunting lions with +natives-both wild and tame-and a scratch pack of dogs. More of that +later. We had rummaged around all the morning without any results; and +now at noon had climbed to the top of a butte to eat lunch and look +abroad. + +Our butte ran up a gentle but accelerating slope to a peak of big +rounded rocks and slabs sticking out boldly from the soil of the hill. +We made ourselves comfortable each after his fashion. The gunbearers +leaned against rocks and rolled cigarettes. The savages squatted on +their heels, planting their spears ceremonially in front of them. One +of my friends lay on his back, resting a huge telescope over his crossed +feet. With this he purposed seeing any lion that moved within ten miles. +None of the rest of us could ever make out anything through the fearsome +weapon. Therefore, relieved from responsibility by the presence of this +Dreadnaught of a 'scope, we loafed and looked about us. This is what we +saw: + +Mountains at our backs, of course-at some distance; then plains in long +low swells like the easy rise and fall of a tropical sea, wave after +wave, and over the edge of the world beyond a distant horizon. Here and +there on this plain, single hills lay becalmed, like ships at sea; some +peaked, some cliffed like buttes, some long and low like the hulls of +battleships. The brown plain flowed up to wash their bases, liquid as +the sea itself, its tides rising in the coves of the hills, and ebbing +in the valleys between. Near at hand, in the middle distance, far away, +these fleets of the plain sailed, until at last hull-down over the +horizon their topmasts disappeared. Above them sailed too the phantom +fleet of the clouds, shot with light, shining like silver, airy as +racing yachts, yet casting here and there exaggerated shadows below. + +The sky in Africa is always very wide, greater than any other skies. +Between horizon and horizon is more space than any other world contains. +It is as though the cup of heaven had been pressed a little flatter; +so that while the boundaries have widened, the zenith, with its flaming +sun, has come nearer. And yet that is not a constant quantity either. I +have seen one edge of the sky raised straight up a few million miles, as +though some one had stuck poles under its corners, so that the western +heaven did not curve cup-wise over to the horizon at all as it did +everywhere else, but rather formed the proscenium of a gigantic stage. +On this stage they had piled great heaps of saffron yellow clouds, and +struck shafts of yellow light, and filled the spaces with the lurid +portent of a storm-while the twenty thousand foot mountains below, +crouched whipped and insignificant to the earth. + +We sat atop our butte for an hour while H. looked through his 'scope. +After the soft silent immensity of the earth, running away to infinity, +with its low waves, and its scattered fleet of hills, it was with +difficulty that we brought our gaze back to details and to things near +at hand. Directly below us we could make out many different-hued specks. +Looking closely, we could see that those specks were game animals. They +fed here and there in bands of from ten to two hundred, with valleys and +hills between. Within the radius of the eye they moved, nowhere crowded +in big herds, but everywhere present. A band of zebras grazed the side +of one of the earth waves, a group of gazelles walked on the skyline, +a herd of kongoni rested in the hollow between. On the next rise was a +similar grouping; across the valley a new variation. As far as the eye +could strain its powers it could make out more and ever more beasts. I +took up my field glasses, and brought them all to within a sixth of the +distance. After amusing myself for some time in watching them, I swept +the glasses farther on. Still the same animals grazing on the hills and +in the hollows. I continued to look, and to look again, until even +the powerful prismatic glasses failed to show things big enough to +distinguish. At the limit of extreme vision I could still make out game, +and yet more game. And as I took my glasses from my eyes, and realized +how small a portion of this great land-sea I had been able to examine; +as I looked away to the ship-hills hull-down over the horizon, and +realized that over all that extent fed the Game; the ever-new wonder of +Africa for the hundredth time filled my mind-the teeming fecundity of +her bosom. + +“Look here,” said H. without removing his eye from the 'scope, “just +beyond the edge of that shadow to the left of the bushes in the +donga-I've been watching them ten minutes, and I can't make 'em out yet. +They're either hyenas acting mighty queer, or else two lionesses.” + +We snatched our glasses and concentrated on that important detail. + +To catch the third experience you must have journeyed with us across the +“Thirst,” as the natives picturesquely name the waterless tract of two +days and a half. Our very start had been delayed by a breakage of some +Dutch-sounding essential to our ox wagon, caused by the confusion of a +night attack by lions: almost every night we had lain awake as long as +we could to enjoy the deep-breathed grumbling or the vibrating roars of +these beasts. Now at last, having pushed through the dry country to +the river in the great plain, we were able to take breath from our mad +hurry, and to give our attention to affairs beyond the limits of mere +expediency. One of these was getting Billy a shot at a lion. + +Billy had never before wanted to shoot anything except a python. Why a +python we could not quite fathom. Personally, I think she had some vague +idea of getting even for that Garden of Eden affair. But lately, pythons +proving scarcer than in that favoured locality, she had switched to a +lion. She wanted, she said, to give the skin to her sister. In vain +we pointed out that a zebra hide was very decorative, that lions go to +absurd lengths in retaining possession of their own skins, and other +equally convincing facts. It must be a lion or nothing; so naturally we +had to make a try. + +There are several ways of getting lions, only one of which is at all +likely to afford a steady pot shot to a very small person trying to +manipulate an over-size gun. That is to lay out a kill. The idea is to +catch the lion at it in the early morning before he has departed for +home. The best kill is a zebra: first, because lions like zebra; second, +because zebra are fairly large; third, because zebra are very numerous. + +Accordingly, after we had pitched camp just within a fringe of mimosa +trees and of red-flowering aloes near the river; had eaten lunch, smoked +a pipe and issued necessary orders to the men, C. and I set about the +serious work of getting an appropriate bait in an appropriate place. + +The plains stretched straight away from the river bank to some +indefinite and unknown distance to the south. A low range of mountains +lay blue to the left; and a mantle of scrub thornbush closed the view to +the right. This did not imply that we could see far straight ahead, for +the surface of the plain rose slowly to the top of a swell about two +miles away. Beyond it reared a single butte peak at four or five times +that distance. + +We stepped from the fringe of red aloes and squinted through the dancing +heat shimmer. Near the limit of vision showed a very faint glimmering +whitish streak. A newcomer to Africa would not have looked at it twice: +nevertheless, it could be nothing but zebra. These gaudily marked beasts +take queer aspects even on an open plain. Most often they show pure +white; sometimes a jet black; only when within a few hundred yards does +one distinguish the stripes. Almost always they are very easily made +out. Only when very distant and in heat shimmer, or in certain half +lights of evening, does their so-called “protective colouration” seem to +be in working order, and even then they are always quite visible to the +least expert hunter's scrutiny. + +It is not difficult to kill a zebra, though sometimes it has to be done +at a fairly long range. If all you want is meat for the porters, the +matter is simple enough. But when you require bait for a lion, that; is +another affair entirely. In the first place, you must be able to stalk +within a hundred yards of your kill without being seen; in the second +place, you must provide two or three good lying-down places for your +prospective trophy within fifteen yards of the carcass-and no more than +two or three; in the third place, you must judge the direction of the +probable morning wind, and must be able to approach from leeward. It is +evidently pretty good luck to find an accommodating zebra in just such +a spot. It is a matter of still greater nicety to drop him absolutely in +his tracks. In a case of porters' meat it does not make any particular +difference if he runs a hundred yards before he dies. With lion bait +even fifty yards makes all the difference in the world. + +C. and I talked it over and resolved to press Scallywattamus into +service. Scallywattamus is a small white mule who is firmly convinced +that each and every bush in Africa conceals a mule-eating rhinoceros, +and who does not intend to be one of the number so eaten. But we had +noticed that at times zebra would be so struck with the strange sight of +Scallywattamus carrying a man, that they would let us get quite close. +C. was to ride Scallywattamus while I trudged along under his lee ready +to shoot. + +We set out through the heat shimmer, gradually rising as the plain +slanted. Imperceptibly the camp and the trees marking the river's course +fell below us and into the heat haze. In the distance, close to the +stream, we made out a blurred, brown-red solid mass which we knew for +Masai cattle. Various little Thompson's gazelles skipped away to the +left waggling their tails vigorously and continuously as Nature long +since commanded “Tommies” to do. The heat haze steadied around the dim +white line, so we could make out the individual animals. There were +plenty of them, dozing in the sun. A single tiny treelet broke the plain +just at the skyline of the rise. C. and I talked low-voiced as we went +along. We agreed that the tree was an excellent landmark to come to, +that the little rise afforded proper cover, and that in the morning the +wind would in all likelihood blow toward the river. There were perhaps +twenty zebra near enough to the chosen spot. Any of them would do. + +But the zebra did not give a hoot for Scallywattamus. At five hundred +yards three or four of them awoke with a start, stared at us a minute, +and moved slowly away. They told all the zebra they happened upon that +the three idiots approaching were at once uninteresting and dangerous. +At four hundred and fifty yards a half dozen more made off at a trot. At +three hundred and fifty yards the rest plunged away at a canter-all +but one. He remained to stare, but his tail was up, and we knew he +only stayed because he knew he could easily catch up in the next twenty +seconds. + +The chance was very slim of delivering a knockout at that distance, but +we badly needed meat, anyway, after our march through the Thirst, so I +tried him. We heard the well-known plunk of the bullet, but down went +his head, up went his heels, and away went he. We watched him in vast +disgust. He cavorted out into a bare open space without cover of any +sort, and then flopped over. I thought I caught a fleeting grin of +delight on Mavrouki's face; but he knew enough instantly to conceal his +satisfaction over sure meat. + +There were now no zebra anywhere near; but since nobody ever thinks +of omitting any chances in Africa, I sneaked up to the tree and took +a perfunctory look. There stood another, providentially absent-minded, +zebra! + +We got that one. Everybody was now happy. The boys raced over to the +first kill, which soon took its dismembered way toward camp. C. and I +carefully organized our plan of campaign. We fixed in our memories the +exact location of each and every bush; we determined compass direction +from camp, and any other bearings likely to prove useful in finding so +small a spot in the dark. Then we left a boy to keep carrion birds off +until sunset; and returned home. + +We were out in the morning before even the first sign of dawn. Billy +rode her little mule, C. and I went afoot, Memba Sasa accompanied us +because he could see whole lions where even C.'s trained eye could not +make out an ear, and the syce went along to take care of the mule. The +heavens were ablaze with the thronging stars of the tropics, so we found +we could make out the skyline of the distant butte over the rise of the +plains. The earth itself was a pool of absolute blackness. We could not +see where we were placing our feet, and we were continually bringing up +suddenly to walk around an unexpected aloe or thornbush. The night +was quite still, but every once in a while from the blackness came +rustlings, scamperings, low calls, and once or twice the startled +barking of zebra very near at hand. The latter sounded as ridiculous as +ever. It is one of the many incongruities of African life that Nature +should have given so large and so impressive a creature the petulant +yapping of an exasperated Pomeranian lap dog. At the end of three +quarters of an hour of more or less stumbling progress, we made out +against the sky the twisted treelet that served as our landmark. Billy +dismounted, turned the mule over to the syce, and we crept slowly +forward until within a guessed two or three hundred yards of our kill. + +Nothing remained now but to wait for the daylight. It had already begun +to show. Over behind the distant mountains some one was kindling the +fires, and the stars were flickering out. The splendid ferocity of the +African sunrise was at hand. Long bands of slate dark clouds lay close +along the horizon, and behind them glowed a heart of fire, as on a small +scale the lamplight glows through a metal-worked shade. On either side +the sky was pale green-blue, translucent and pure, deep as infinity +itself. The earth was still black, and the top of the rise near at hand +was clear edged. On that edge, and by a strange chance accurately in +the centre of illumination, stood the uncouth massive form of a shaggy +wildebeeste, his head raised, staring to the east. He did not move; +nothing of that fire and black world moved; only instant by instant it +changed, swelling in glory toward some climax until one expected at any +moment a fanfare of trumpets, the burst of triumphant culmination. + +Then very far down in the distance a lion roared. The wildebeeste, +without moving, bellowed back an answer or a defiance. Down in the +hollow an ostrich boomed. Zebra barked, and several birds chirped +strongly. The tension was breaking not in the expected fanfare and burst +of triumphal music, but in a manner instantly felt to be more fitting +to what was indeed a wonder, but a daily wonder for all that. At one and +the same instant the rim of the sun appeared and the wildebeeste, after +the sudden habit of his kind, made up his mind to go. He dropped his +head and came thundering down past us at full speed. Straight to the +west he headed, and so disappeared. We could hear the beat of his hoofs +dying into the distance. He had gone like a Warder of the Morning whose +task was finished. On the knife-edged skyline appeared the silhouette of +slim-legged little Tommies, flirting their rails, sniffing at the +dewy grass, dainty, slender, confiding, the open-day antithesis of the +tremendous and awesome lord of the darkness that had roared its way to +its lair, and to the massive shaggy herald of morning that had thundered +down to the west. + + + + +III. THE CENTRAL PLATEAU + +Now is required a special quality of the imagination, not in myself, but +in my readers, for it becomes necessary for them to grasp the logic of +a whole country in one mental effort. The difficulties to me are very +real. If I am to tell you it all in detail, your mind becomes confused +to the point of mingling the ingredients of the description. The +resultant mental picture is a composite; it mixes localities wide +apart; it comes out, like the snake-creeper-swamp-forest thing of +grammar-school South America, an unreal and deceitful impression. If, +on the other hand, I try to give you a bird's-eye view-saying, here +is plain, and there follows upland, and yonder succeed mountains and +hills-you lose the sense of breadth and space and the toil of many +days. The feeling of onward outward extending distance is gone; and that +impression so indispensable to finite understanding-“here am I, and what +is beyond is to be measured by the length of my legs and the toil of +my days.” You will not stop long enough on my plains to realize their +physical extent nor their influence on the human soul. If I mention them +in a sentence, you dismiss them in a thought. And that is something the +plains themselves refuse to permit you to do. Yet sometimes one must +become a guide-book, and bespeak his reader's imagination. + +The country, then, wherein we travelled begins at the sea. Along the +coast stretches a low rolling country of steaming tropics, grown with +cocoanuts, bananas, mangoes, and populated by a happy, half-naked race +of the Swahilis. Leaving the coast, the country rises through hills. +These hills are at first fertile and green and wooded. Later they turn +into an almost unbroken plateau of thorn scrub, cruel, monotonous, +almost impenetrable. Fix thorn scrub in your mind, with rhino trails, +and occasional openings for game, and a few rivers flowing through palms +and narrow jungle strips; fix it in your mind until your mind is filled +with it, until you are convinced that nothing else can exist in the +world but more and more of the monotonous, terrible, dry, onstretching +desert of thorn. + +Then pass through this to the top of the hills inland, and journey over +these hills to the highland plains. + +Now sense and appreciate these wide seas of and the hills and ranges +of mountains rising from them, and their infinite diversity of +country-their rivers marked by ribbons of jungle, their scattered-bush +and their thick-bush areas, their grass expanses, and their great +distances extending far over exceedingly wide horizons. Realize how many +weary hours you must travel to gain the nearest butte, what days of toil +the view from its top will disclose. Savour the fact that you can spend +months in its veriest corner without exhausting its possibilities. Then, +and not until then, raise your eyes to the low rising transverse range +that bands it to the west as the thorn desert bands it to the east. + +And on these ranges are the forests, the great bewildering forests. +In what looks like a grove lying athwart a little hill you can lose +yourself for days. Here dwell millions of savages in an apparently +untouched wilderness. Here rises a snow mountain on the equator. Here +are tangles and labyrinths, great bamboo forests lost in folds of the +mightiest hills. Here are the elephants. Here are the swinging vines, +the jungle itself. + +Yet finally it breaks. We come out on the edge of things and look down +on a great gash in the earth. It is like a sunken kingdom in itself, +miles wide, with its own mountain ranges, its own rivers, its own +landscape features. Only on either side of it rise the escarpments which +are the true level of the plateau. One can spend two months in this +valley, too, and in the countries south to which it leads. And on its +farther side are the high plateau plains again, or the forests, or the +desert, or the great lakes that lie at the source of the Nile. + +So now, perhaps, we are a little prepared to go ahead. The guide-book +work is finished for good and all. There is the steaming hot low coast +belt, and the hot dry thorn desert belt, and the varied immense plains, +and the high mountain belt of the forests, and again the variegated wide +country of the Rift Valley and the high plateau. To attempt to tell +you seriatim and in detail just what they are like is the task of an +encyclopaedist. Perhaps more indirectly you may be able to fill in the +picture of the country, the people, and the beasts. + + + + + +IV. THE FIRST CAMP + +Our very first start into the new country was made when we piled out +from the little train standing patiently awaiting the good pleasure +of our descent. That feature strikes me with ever new wonder-the +accommodating way trains of the Uganda Railway have of waiting for you. +One day, at a little wayside station, C. and I were idly exchanging +remarks with the only white man in sight, killing time until the engine +should whistle to a resumption of the journey. The guard lingered about +just out of earshot. At the end of five minutes C. happened to catch his +eye, whereupon he ventured to approach. + +“When you have finished your conversation,” said he politely, “we are +all ready to go on.” + +On the morning in question there were a lot of us to disembark-one +hundred and twenty-two, to be exact-of which four were white. We were +not yet acquainted with our men, nor yet with our stores, nor with the +methods of our travel. The train went off and left us in the middle of +a high plateau, with low ridges running across it, and mountains in the +distance. Men were squabbling earnestly for the most convenient loads to +carry, and as fast as they had gained undisputed possession, they marked +the loads with some private sign of their own. M'ganga, the headman, +tall, fierce, big-framed and bony, clad in fez, a long black overcoat, +blue puttees and boots, stood stiff as a ramrod, extended a rigid right +arm and rattled off orders in a high dynamic voice. In his left hand he +clasped a bulgy umbrella, the badge of his dignity and the symbol of his +authority. The four askaris, big men too, with masterful high-cheekboned +countenances, rushed here and there seeing that the orders were carried +out. Expostulations, laughter, the sound of quarrelling rose and fell. +Never could the combined volume of it all override the firecracker +stream of M'ganga's eloquence. + +We had nothing to do with it all, but stood a little dazed, staring at +the novel scene. Our men were of many tribes, each with its own cast +of features, its own notions of what befitted man's performance of his +duties here below. They stuck together each in its clan. A fine free +individualism of personal adornment characterized them. Every man +dressed for his own satisfaction solely. They hung all sorts of things +in the distended lobes of their ears. One had succeeded in inserting a +fine big glittering tobacco tin. Others had invented elaborate topiary +designs in their hair, shaving their heads so as to leave strange tufts, +patches, crescents on the most unexpected places. Of the intricacy of +these designs they seemed absurdly proud. Various sorts of treasure +trove hung from them-a bunch of keys to which there were no locks, +discarded hunting knives, tips of antelope horns, discharged brass +cartridges, a hundred and one valueless trifles plucked proudly from +the rubbish heap. They were all clothed. We had supplied each with a +red blanket, a blue jersey, and a water bottle. The blankets they were +twisting most ingeniously into turbans. Beside these they sported a +great variety of garments. Shooting coats that had seen better days, a +dozen shabby overcoats-worn proudly through the hottest noons-raggety +breeches and trousers made by some London tailor, queer baggy homemades +of the same persuasion, or quite simply the square of cotton cloth +arranged somewhat like a short tight skirt, or nothing at all as the +man's taste ran. They were many of them amusing enough; but somehow they +did not look entirely farcical and ridiculous, like our negroes +putting on airs. All these things were worn with a simplicity of quiet +confidence in their entire fitness. And beneath the red blanket turbans +the half-wild savage faces peered out. + +Now Mahomet approached. Mahomet was my personal boy. He was a Somali +from the Northwest coast, dusky brown, with the regular clear-cut +features of a Greek marble god. His dress was of neat khaki, and he +looked down on savages; but, also, as with all the dark-skinned races, +up to his white master. Mahomet was with me during all my African stay, +and tested out nobly. As yet, of course, I did not know him. + +“Chakula taiari,” said he. + +That is Swahili. It means literally “food is ready.” After one has +hunted in Africa for a few months, it means also “paradise is opened,” + “grief is at an end,” “joy and thanksgiving are now in order,” and +similar affairs. Those two words are never forgotten, and the veriest +beginner in Swahili can recognize them without the slightest effort. + +We followed Mahomet. Somehow, without orders, in all this confusion, the +personal staff had been quietly and efficiently busy. Drawn a little to +one side stood a table with four chairs. The table was covered with a +white cloth, and was set with a beautiful white enamel service. We +took our places. Behind each chair straight as a ramrod stood a neat +khaki-clad boy. They brought us food, and presented it properly on the +left side, waiting like well-trained butlers. We might have been in +a London restaurant. As three of us were Americans, we felt a trifle +dazed. The porters, having finished the distribution of their loads, +squatted on their heels and watched us respectfully. + +And then, not two hundred yards away, four ostriches paced slowly across +the track, paying not the slightest attention to us-our first real +wild ostriches, scornful of oranges, careless of tourists, and rightful +guardians of their own snowy plumes. The passage of these four solemn +birds seemed somehow to lend this strange open-air meal an exotic +flavour. We were indeed in Africa; and the ostriches helped us to +realize it. + +We finished breakfast and arose from our chairs. Instantly a half dozen +men sprang forward. Before our amazed eyes the table service, the chairs +and the table itself disappeared into neat packages. M'ganga arose to +his feet. + +“Bandika!” he cried. + +The askaris rushed here and there actively. + +“Bandika! bandika! bandika!” they cried repeatedly. + +The men sprang into activity. A struggle heaved the varicoloured +multitude-and, lo! each man stood upright, his load balanced on his +head. At the same moment the syces led up our horses, mounted and headed +across the little plain whence had come the four ostriches. Our African +journey had definitely begun. + +Behind us, all abreast marched the four gunbearers; then the four syces; +then the safari single file, an askari at the head bearing proudly his +ancient musket and our banner, other askaris flanking, M'ganga bringing +up the rear with his mighty umbrella and an unsuspected rhinoceros-hide +whip. The tent boys and the cook scattered along the flank anywhere, as +befitted the free and independent who had nothing to do with the serious +business of marching. A measured sound of drumming followed the beating +of loads with a hundred sticks; a wild, weird chanting burst from the +ranks and died down again as one or another individual or group felt +moved to song. One lot had a formal chant and response. Their leader, in +a high falsetto, said something like, + +“Kuna koma kuno,” + +and all his tribesmen would follow with a single word in a deep gruff +tone, + +“Za-la-nee!” + +All of which undoubtedly helped immensely. + +The country was a bully country, but somehow it did not look like +Africa. That is to say, it looked altogether too much like any amount +of country at home. There was nothing strange and exotic about it. We +crossed a little plain, and up over a small hill, down into a shallow +canyon that seemed to be wooded with live oaks, across a grass valley +or so, and around a grass hill. Then we went into camp at the edge of +another grass valley, by a stream across which rose some ordinary low +cliffs. + +That is the disconcerting thing about a whole lot of this country-it +is so much like home. Of course, there are many wide districts exotic +enough in all conscience-the jungle beds of the rivers, the bamboo +forests, the great tangled forests themselves, the banana groves down +the aisles of which dance savages with shields-but so very much of it is +familiar. One needs only church spires and a red-roofed village or so +to imagine one's self in Surrey. There is any amount of country +like Arizona, and more like the uplands of Wyoming, and a lot of it +resembling the smaller landscapes of New England. The prospects of the +whole world are there, so that somewhere every wanderer can find the +countryside of his own home repeated. And, by the same token, that is +exactly what makes a good deal of it so startling. When a man sees a +file of spear-armed savages, or a pair of snorty old rhinos, step out +into what has seemed practically his own back yard home, he is even more +startled than if he had encountered them in quite strange surroundings. + +We rode into the grass meadow and picked camp site. The men trailed in +and dumped down their loads in a row. + +At a signal they set to work. A dozen to each tent got them up in a +jiffy. A long file brought firewood from the stream bed. Others carried +water, stones for the cook, a dozen other matters. The tent boys rescued +our boxes; they put together the cots and made the beds, even before the +tents were raised from the ground. Within an incredibly short space of +time the three green tents were up and arranged, each with its bed made, +its mosquito bar hung, its personal box open, its folding washstand +ready with towels and soap, the table and chairs unlimbered. At a +discreet distance flickered the cook campfire, and at a still discreeter +distance the little tents of the men gleamed pure white against the +green of the high grass. + + + + + +V. MEMBA SASA + +I wish I could plunge you at once into the excitements of big game in +Africa, but I cannot truthfully do so. To be sure, we went hunting that +afternoon, up over the low cliffs, and we saw several of a very lively +little animal known as the Chandler's reedbuck. This was not supposed to +be a game country, and that was all we did see. At these we shot several +times-disgracefully. In fact, for several days we could not shoot +at all, at any range, nor at anything. It was very sad, and very +aggravating. Afterward we found that this is an invariable experience to +the newcomer. The light is new, the air is different, the sizes of the +game are deceiving. Nobody can at first hit anything. At the end of five +days we suddenly began to shoot our normal gait. Why, I do not know. + +But in this afternoon tramp around the low cliffs after the elusive +reedbuck, I for the first time became acquainted with a man who +developed into a real friend. + +His name is Memba Sasa. Memba Sasa are two Swahili words meaning “now a +crocodile.” Subsequently, after I had learned to talk Swahili, I tried +to find out what he was formerly, before he was a crocodile, but did not +succeed. + +He was of the tribe of the Monumwezi, of medium height, compactly +and sturdily built, carried himself very erect, and moved with a +concentrated and vigorous purposefulness. His countenance might be +described as pleasing but not handsome, of a dark chocolate brown, with +the broad nose of the negro, but with a firm mouth, high cheekbones, and +a frowning intentness of brow that was very fine. When you talked to +him he looked you straight in the eye. His own eyes were shaded by +long, soft, curling lashes behind which they looked steadily and +gravely-sometimes fiercely-on the world. He rarely smiled-never merely +in understanding or for politeness' sake-and never laughed unless there +was something really amusing. Then he chuckled from deep in his chest, +the most contagious laughter you can imagine. Often we, at the other end +of the camp, have laughed in sympathy, just at the sound of that deep +and hearty ho! ho! ho! of Memba Sasa. Even at something genuinely +amusing he never laughed much, nor without a very definite restraint. In +fact, about him was no slackness, no sprawling abandon of the native +in relaxation; but always a taut efficiency and a never-failing +self-respect. + +Naturally, behind such a fixed moral fibre must always be some moral +idea. When a man lives up to a real, not a pompous, dignity some ideal +must inform it. Memba Sasa's ideal was that of the Hunter. + +He was a gunbearer; and he considered that a good gunbearer stood quite +a few notches above any other human being, save always the white man, +of course. And even among the latter Memba Sasa made great differences. +These differences he kept to himself, and treated all with equal +respect. Nevertheless, they existed, and Memba Sasa very well knew that +fact. In the white world were two classes of masters: those who hunted +well, and those who were considered by them as their friends and equals. +Why they should be so considered Memba Sasa did not know, but he trusted +the Hunter's judgment. These were the bwanas, or masters. All the rest +were merely mazungos, or, “white men.” To their faces he called them +bwana, but in his heart he considered them not. + +Observe, I say those who hunted well. Memba Sasa, in his profession as +gunbearer, had to accompany those who hunted badly. In them he took +no pride; from them he held aloof in spirit; but for them he did his +conscientious best, upheld by the dignity of his profession. + +For to Mamba Sasa that profession was the proudest to which a black +man could aspire. He prided himself on mastering its every detail, in +accomplishing its every duty minutely and exactly. The major virtues of +a gunbearer are not to be despised by anybody; for they comprise great +physical courage, endurance, and loyalty: the accomplishments of a +gunbearer are worthy of a man's best faculties, for they include the +ability to see and track game, to take and prepare properly any sort of +a trophy, field taxidermy, butchering game meat, wood and plainscraft, +the knowledge of how properly to care for firearms in all sorts of +circumstances, and a half hundred other like minutiae. Memba Sasa knew +these things, and he performed them with the artist's love for details; +and his keen eyes were always spying for new ways. + +At a certain time I shot an egret, and prepared to take the skin. Memba +Sasa asked if he might watch me do it. Two months later, having killed +a really gaudy peacocklike member of the guinea fowl tribe, I handed +it over to him with instructions to take off the breast feathers before +giving it to the cook. In a half hour he brought me the complete skin, +I examined it carefully, and found it to be well done in every respect. +Now in skinning a bird there are a number of delicate and unusual +operations, such as stripping the primary quills from the bone, cutting +the ear cover, and the like. I had explained none of them; and yet Memba +Sasa, unassisted, had grasped their method from a single demonstration +and had remembered them all two months later! C. had a trick in making +the second skin incision of a trophy head that had the effect of giving +a better purchase to the knife. Its exact description would be out of +place here, but it actually consisted merely in inserting the point of +the knife two inches away from the place it is ordinarily inserted. One +day we noticed that Memba Sasa was making his incisions in that manner. +I went to Africa fully determined to care for my own rifle. The modern +high-velocity gun needs rather especial treatment; mere wiping out will +not do. I found that Memba Sasa already knew all about boiling water, +and the necessity for having it really boiling, about subsequent metal +sweating, and all the rest. After watching him at work I concluded, +rightly, that he would do a lot better job than I. + +To the new employer Memba Sasa maintained an attitude of strict +professional loyalty. His personal respect was upheld by the necessity +of every man to do his job in the world. Memba Sasa did his. He cleaned +the rifles; he saw that everything was in order for the day's march; he +was at my elbow all ways with more cartridges and the spare rifle; he +trailed and looked conscientiously. In his attitude was the stolidity +of the wooden Indian. No action of mine, no joke on the part of his +companions, no circumstance in the varying fortunes of the field gained +from him the faintest flicker of either approval, disapproval, or +interest. When we returned to camp he deposited my water bottle +and camera, seized the cleaning implements, and departed to his own +campfire. In the field he pointed out game that I did not see, and +waited imperturbably the result of my shot. + +As I before stated, the result of that shot for the first five days was +very apt to be nil. This, at the time, puzzled and grieved me a lot. +Occasionally I looked at Memba Sasa to catch some sign of sympathy, +disgust, contempt, or-rarely-triumph at a lucky shot. Nothing. He gently +but firmly took away my rifle, reloaded it, and handed it back; then +waited respectfully for my next move. He knew no English, and I no +Swahili. + +But as time went on this attitude changed. I was armed with the new +Springfield rifle, a weapon with 2,700 feet velocity, and with a +marvellously flat trajectory. This commanding advantage, combined with +a very long familiarity with firearms, enabled me to do some fairish +shooting, after the strangeness of these new conditions had been +mastered. Memba Sasa began to take a dawning interest in me as a +possible source of pride. We began to develop between us a means of +communication. I set myself deliberately to learn his language, and +after he had cautiously determined that I really meant it, he took the +greatest pains-always gravely-to teach me. A more human feeling sprang +up between us. + +But we had still the final test to undergo-that of danger and the tight +corner. + +In close quarters the gunbearer has the hardest job in the world. I have +the most profound respect for his absolute courage. Even to a man +armed and privileged to shoot and defend himself, a charging lion is an +awesome thing, requiring a certain amount of coolness and resolution to +face effectively. Think of the gunbearer at his elbow, depending not +on himself but on the courage and coolness of another. He cannot do one +solitary thing to defend himself. To bolt for the safety of a tree is +to beg the question completely, to brand himself as a shenzi forever; +to fire a gun in any circumstances is to beg the question also, for +the white man must be able to depend absolutely on his second gun in +an emergency. Those things are outside consideration, even, of any +respectable gunbearer. In addition, he must keep cool. He must see +clearly in the thickest excitement; must be ready unobtrusively to pass +up the second gun in the position most convenient for immediate use, to +seize the other and to perform the finicky task of reloading correctly +while some rampageous beast is raising particular thunder a few yards +away. All this in absolute dependence on the ability of his bwana to +deal with the situation. I can confess very truly that once or twice +that little unobtrusive touch of Memba Sasa crouched close to my elbow +steadied me with the thought of how little right I-with a rifle in +my hand-had to be scared. And the best compliment I ever received I +overheard by chance. I had wounded a lion when out by myself, and +had returned to camp for a heavier rifle and for Memba Sasa to do the +trailing. From my tent I overheard the following conversation between +Memba Sasa and the cook: + +“The grass is high,” said the cook. “Are you not afraid to go after a +wounded lion with only one white man?” + +“My one white man is enough,” replied Memba Sasa. + +It is a quality of courage that I must confess would be quite beyond +me-to depend entirely on the other fellow, and not at all on myself. +This courage is always remarkable to me, even in the case of the +gunbearer who knows all about the man whose heels he follows. But +consider that of the gunbearer's first experience with a stranger. The +former has no idea of how the white man will act; whether he will get +nervous, get actually panicky, lose his shooting ability, and generally +mess things up. Nevertheless, he follows his master in, and he stands +by. If the hunter fails, the gunbearer will probably die. To me it is +rather fine: for he does it, not from the personal affection and loyalty +which will carry men far, but from a sheer sense of duty and pride of +caste. The quiet pride of the really good men, like Memba Sasa, is easy +to understand. + +And the records are full of stories of the white man who has not made +good: of the coward who bolts, leaving his black man to take the brunt +of it, or who sticks but loses his head. Each new employer must be +very closely and interestedly scrutinized. In the light of subsequent +experience, I can no longer wonder at Memba Sasa's first detached and +impersonal attitude. + +As time went on, however, and we grew to know each other better, this +attitude entirely changed. At first the change consisted merely in +dropping the disinterested pose as respects game. For it was a pose. +Memba Sasa was most keenly interested in game whenever it was an object +of pursuit. It did not matter how common the particular species might +be: if we wanted it, Memba Sasa would look upon it with eager ferocity; +and if we did not want it, he paid no attention to it at all. When we +started in the morning, or in the relaxation of our return at night, I +would mention casually a few of the things that might prove acceptable. + +“To-morrow we want kongoni for boys' meat, or zebra; and some meat for +masters-Tommy, impala, oribi,” and Memba Sasa knew as well as I did what +we needed to fill out our trophy collection. When he caught sight of one +of these animals his whole countenance changed. The lines of his face +set, his lips drew back from his teeth, his eyes fairly darted fire in +the fixity of their gaze. He was like a fine pointer dog on birds, or +like the splendid savage he was at heart. + +“M'palla!” he hissed; and then after a second, in a restrained fierce +voice, “Na-ona? Do you see?” + +If I did not see he pointed cautiously. His own eyes never left the +beast. Rarely he stayed put while I made the stalk. More often he glided +like a snake at my heels. If the bullet hit, Memba Sasa always exhaled +a grunt of satisfaction-“hah!”-in which triumph and satisfaction mingled +with a faint derision at the unfortunate beast. In case of a trophy he +squatted anxiously at the animal's head while I took my measurements, +assisting very intelligently with the tape line. When I had finished, he +always looked up at me with wrinkled brow. + +“Footie n'gapi?” he inquired. This means literally, “How many feet?”, +footie being his euphemistic invention of a word for the tape. I would +tell him how many “footie” and how many “inchie” the measurement proved +to be. From the depths of his wonderful memory he would dig up the +measurements of another beast of the same sort I had killed months back, +but which he had remembered accurately from a single hearing. + +The shooting of a beast he always detailed to his few cronies in camp: +the other gunbearers, and one or two from his own tribe. He always used +the first person plural, “we” did so and so; and took an inordinate +pride in making out his bwana as being an altogether superior person to +any of the other gunbearer's bwanas. Over a miss he always looked +sad; but with a dignified sadness as though we had met with undeserved +misfortune sent by malignant gods. If there were any possible +alleviating explanation, Memba Sasa made the most of it, provided our +fiasco was witnessed. If we were alone in our disgrace, he buried the +incident fathoms deep. He took an inordinate pride in our using the +minimum number of cartridges, and would explain to me in a loud tone +of voice that we had cartridges enough in the belt. When we had not +cartridges enough, he would sneak around after dark to get some more. At +times he would even surreptitiously “lift” a few from B.'s gunbearer! + +When in camp, with his “cazi” finished, Memba Sasa did fancy work! The +picture of this powerful half-savage, his fierce brows bent over a tiny +piece of linen, his strong fingers fussing with little stitches, will +always appeal to my sense of the incongruous. Through a piece of linen +he punched holes with a porcupine quill. Then he “buttonhole” stitched +the holes, and embroidered patterns between them with fine white thread. +The result was an openwork pattern heavily encrusted with beautiful fine +embroidery. It was most astounding stuff, such as you would expect from +a French convent, perhaps, but never from an African savage. He did a +circular piece and a long narrow piece. They took him three months to +finish, and then he sewed them together to form a skull cap. Billy, +entranced with the lacelike delicacy of the work, promptly captured it; +whereupon Memba Sasa philosophically started another. + +By this time he had identified himself with my fortunes. We had become +a firm whose business it was to carry out the affairs of a single +personality-me. Memba Sasa, among other things, undertook the dignity. +When I walked through a crowd, Memba Sasa zealously kicked everybody out +of my royal path. When I started to issue a command, Memba Sasa finished +it and amplified it and put a snapper on it. When I came into camp, +Memba Sasa saw to it personally that my tent went up promptly and +properly, although that was really not part of his “cazi” at all. And +when somewhere beyond my ken some miserable boy had committed a crime, I +never remained long in ignorance of that fact. + +Perhaps I happened to be sitting in my folding chair idly smoking a +pipe and reading a book. Across the open places of the camp would stride +Memba Sasa, very erect, very rigid, moving in short indignant jerks, +his eye flashing fire. Behind him would sneak a very hang-dog boy. Memba +Sasa marched straight up to me, faced right, and drew one side, his +silence sparkling with honest indignation. + +“Just look at THAT!” his attitude seemed to say, “Could you believe such +human depravity possible? And against OUR authority?” + +He always stood, quite rigid, waiting for me to speak. + +“Well, Memba Sasa?” I would inquire, after I had enjoyed the show a +little. + +In a few restrained words he put the case before me, always briefly, +always with a scornful dignity. This shenzi has done so-and-so. + +We will suppose the case fairly serious. I listened to the man's story, +if necessary called a few witnesses, delivered judgment. All the while +Memba Sasa stood at rigid attention, fairly bristling virtue, like +the good dog standing by at the punishment of the bad dogs. And in his +attitude was a subtle triumph, as one would say: “You see! Fool with my +bwana, will you! Just let anybody try to get funny with US!” Judgment +pronounced-we have supposed the case serious, you remember-Memba Sasa +himself applied the lash. I think he really enjoyed that; but it was a +restrained joy. The whip descended deliberately, without excitement. + +The man's devotion in unusual circumstances was beyond praise. Danger +or excitement incite a sort of loyalty in any good man; but humdrum, +disagreeable difficulty is a different matter. + +One day we marched over a country of thorn-scrub desert. Since two days +we had been cut loose from water, and had been depending on a small +amount carried in zinc drums. Now our only reasons for faring were a +conical hill, over the horizon, and the knowledge of a river somewhere +beyond. How far beyond, or in what direction, we did not know. We had +thirty men with us, a more or less ragtag lot, picked up anyhow in the +bazaars. They were soft, ill-disciplined and uncertain. For five or six +hours they marched well enough. Then the sun began to get very hot, and +some of them began to straggle. They had, of course, no intention of +deserting, for their only hope of surviving lay in staying with us; but +their loads had become heavy, and they took too many rests. We put a +good man behind, but without much avail. In open country a safari can +be permitted to straggle over miles, for always it can keep in touch by +sight; but in this thorn-scrub desert, that looks all alike, a man fifty +yards out of sight is fifty yards lost. We would march fifteen or twenty +minutes, then sit down to wait until the rearmost men had straggled in, +perhaps a half hour later. And we did not dare move on until the tale of +our thirty was complete. At this rate progress was very slow, and as the +fierce equatorial sun increased in strength, became always slower still. +The situation became alarming. We were quite out of water, and we had no +idea where water was to be found. To complicate matters, the thornbrush +thickened to a jungle. + +My single companion and I consulted. It was agreed that I was to push on +as rapidly as possible to locate the water, while he was to try to hold +the caravan together. Accordingly, Memba Sasa and I marched ahead. We +tried to leave a trail to follow; and we hoped fervently that our guess +as to the stream's course would prove to be a good one. At the end +of two hours and a half we found the water-a beautiful jungle-shaded +stream-and filled ourselves up therewith. Our duty was accomplished, for +we had left a trail to be followed. Nevertheless, I felt I should like +to take back our full canteens to relieve the worst cases. Memba Sasa +would not hear of it, and even while I was talking to him seized the +canteens and disappeared. + +At the end of two hours more camp was made, after a fashion; but still +four men had failed to come in. We built a smudge in the hope of guiding +them; and gave them up. If they had followed our trail, they should have +been in long ago; if they had missed that trail, heaven knows where they +were, or where we should go to find them. Dusk was falling, and, to tell +the truth, we were both very much done up by a long day at 115 degrees +in the shade under an equatorial sun. The missing men would climb trees +away from the beasts, and we would organize a search next day. As we +debated these things, to us came Memba Sasa. + +“I want to take 'Winchi,'” said he. “Winchi” is his name for my +Winchester 405. + +“Why?” we asked. + +“If I can take Winchi, I will find the men,” said he. + +This was entirely voluntary on his part. He, as well as we, had had a +hard day, and he had made a double journey for part of it. We gave him +Winchi and he departed. Sometime after midnight he returned with the +missing men. + +Perhaps a dozen times all told he volunteered for these special +services; once in particular, after a fourteen-hour day, he set off +at nine o'clock at night in a soaking rainstorm, wandered until two +o'clock, and returned unsuccessful, to rouse me and report gravely +that he could not find them. For these services he neither received nor +expected special reward. And catch him doing anything outside his strict +“cazi” except for US. + +We were always very ceremonious and dignified in our relations on such +occasions. Memba Sasa would suddenly appear, deposit the rifle in its +place, and stand at attention. + +“Well, Memba Sasa?” I would inquire. + +“I have found the men; they are in camp.” + +Then I would give him his reward. It was either the word “assanti,” or +the two words “assanti sana,” according to the difficulty and importance +of the task accomplished. They mean simply “thank you” and “thank you +very much.” + +Once or twice, after a particularly long and difficult month or so, when +Memba Sasa has been almost literally my alter ego, I have called him up +for special praise. “I am very pleased with you, Memba Sasa,” said I. +“You have done your cazi well. You are a good man.” + +He accepted this with dignity, without deprecation, and without the +idiocy of spoken gratitude. He agreed perfectly with everything I +said! “Yes” was his only comment. I liked it. + +On our ultimate success in a difficult enterprise Memba Sasa set great +store; and his delight in ultimate success was apparently quite apart +from personal considerations. We had been hunting greater kudu for five +weeks before we finally landed one. The greater kudu is, with the bongo, +easily the prize beast in East Africa, and very few are shot. By a piece +of bad luck, for him, I had sent Memba Sasa out in a different direction +to look for signs the afternoon we finally got one. The kill was made +just at dusk. C. and I, with Mavrouki, built a fire and stayed, while +Kongoni went to camp after men. There he broke the news to Memba Sasa +that the great prize had been captured, and he absent. Memba Sasa was +hugely delighted, nor did he in any way show what must have been a great +disappointment to him. After repeating the news triumphantly to every +one in camp, he came out to where we were waiting, arrived quite out of +breath, and grabbed me by the hand in heartiest congratulation. + +Memba Sasa went in not at all for personal ornamentation, any more than +he allowed his dignity to be broken by anything resembling emotionalism. +No tattoo marks, no ear ornaments, no rings nor bracelets. He never even +picked up an ostrich feather for his head. On the latter he sometimes +wore an old felt hat; sometimes, more picturesquely, an orange-coloured +fillet. Khaki shirt, khaki “shorts,” blue puttees, besides his knife +and my own accoutrements: that was all. In town he was all white clad, a +long fine linen robe reaching to his feet; and one of the lacelike skull +caps he was so very skilful at making. + +That will do for a preliminary sketch. If you follow these pages, you +will hear more of him; he is worth it. + + + + + +VI. THE FIRST GAME CAMP + +In the review of “first” impressions with which we are concerned, we +must now skip a week or ten days to stop at what is known in our diaries +as the First Ford of the Guaso Nyero River. + +These ten days were not uneventful. We had crossed the wide and +undulating plains, had paused at some tall beautiful falls plunging +several hundred feet into the mysteriousness of a dense forest on +which we looked down. There we had enjoyed some duck, goose and snipe +shooting; had made the acquaintance of a few of the Masai, and had +looked with awe on our first hippo tracks in the mud beside a tiny +ditchlike stream. Here and there were small game herds. In the light of +later experience we now realize that these were nothing at all; but at +the time the sight of full-grown wild animals out in plain sight was +quite wonderful. At the close of the day's march we always wandered out +with our rifles to see what we could find. Everything was new to us, +and we had our men to feed. Our shooting gradually improved until we had +overcome the difficulties peculiar to this new country and were doing as +well as we could do anywhere. + +Now, at the end of a hard day through scrub, over rolling bold hills, +and down a scrub brush slope, we had reached the banks of the Guaso +Nyero. + +At this point, above the junction of its principal tributary rivers, +it was a stream about sixty or seventy feet wide, flowing swift between +high banks. A few trees marked its course, but nothing like a jungle. +The ford was in swift water just above a deep still pool suspected +of crocodiles. We found the water about waist deep, stretched a rope +across, and forcibly persuaded our eager boys that one at a time was +about what the situation required. On the other side we made camp on +an open flat. Having marched so far continuously, we resolved to settle +down for a while. The men had been without sufficient meat; and we +desired very much to look over the country closely, and to collect a few +heads as trophies. + +Perhaps a word might not come amiss as to the killing of game. The case +is here quite different from the condition of affairs at home. Here +animal life is most extraordinarily abundant; it furnishes the main food +supply to the traveller; and at present is probably increasing slightly, +certainly holding its own. Whatever toll the sportsman or traveller take +is as nothing compared to what he might take if he were an unscrupulous +game hog. If his cartridges and his shoulder held out, he could easily +kill a hundred animals a day instead of the few he requires. In that +sense, then, no man slaughters indiscriminately. During the course of +a year he probably shoots from two hundred to two hundred and fifty +beasts, provided he is travelling with an ordinary sized caravan. This, +the experts say, is about the annual toll of one lion. If the traveller +gets his lion, he plays even with the fauna of the country; if he +gets two or more lions, he has something to his credit. This probably +explains why the game is still so remarkably abundant near the road and +on the very outskirts of the town. + +We were now much in need of a fair quantity of meat, both for immediate +consumption of our safari, and to make biltong or jerky. Later, in like +circumstances, we should have sallied forth in a businesslike fashion, +dropped the requisite number of zebra and hartebeeste as near camp as +possible, and called it a job. Now, however, being new to the game, we +much desired good trophies in variety. Therefore, we scoured the +country far and wide for desirable heads; and the meat waited upon the +acquisition of the trophy. + +This, then, might be called our first Shooting Camp. Heretofore we had +travelled every day. Now the boys settled down to what the native porter +considers the height of bliss: a permanent camp with plenty to eat. Each +morning we were off before daylight, riding our horses, and followed by +the gunbearers, the syces, and fifteen or twenty porters. The country +rose from the river in a long gentle slope grown with low brush and +scattered candlestick euphorbias. This slope ended in a scattered range +of low rocky buttes. Through any one of the various openings between +them, we rode to find ourselves on the borders of an undulating grass +country of low rounded hills with wide valleys winding between them. In +these valleys and on these hills was the game. + +Daylight of the day I would tell about found us just at the edge of the +little buttes. Down one of the slopes the growing half light revealed +two oryx feeding, magnificent big creatures, with straight rapier horns +three feet in length. These were most exciting and desirable, so off +my horse I got and began to sneak up on them through the low tufts +of grass. They fed quite calmly. I congratulated myself, and slipped +nearer. Without even looking in my direction, they trotted away. +Somewhat chagrined, I returned to my companions, and we rode on. + +Then across a mile-wide valley we saw two dark objects in the tall +grass; and almost immediately identified these as rhinoceroses, the +first we had seen. They stood there side by side, gazing off into space, +doing nothing in a busy morning world. After staring at them through our +glasses for some time, we organized a raid. At the bottom of the valley +we left the horses and porters; lined up, each with his gunbearer at his +elbow; and advanced on the enemy. B. was to have the shot According to +all the books we should have been able, provided we were downwind +and made no noise, to have approached within fifty or sixty yards +undiscovered. However, at a little over a hundred yards they both turned +tail and departed at a swift trot, their heads held well up and their +tails sticking up straight and stiff in the most ridiculous fashion. +No good shooting at them in such circumstances, so we watched them go, +still keeping up their slashing trot, growing smaller and smaller in the +distance until finally they disappeared over the top of a swell. + +We set ourselves methodically to following them. It took us over an hour +of steady plodding before we again came in sight of them. They were this +time nearer the top of a hill, and we saw instantly that the curve of +the slope was such that we could approach within fifty yards before +coming in sight at all. Therefore, once more we dismounted, lined up in +battle array, and advanced. + +Sensations? Distinctly nervous, decidedly alert, and somewhat +self-congratulatory that I was not more scared. No man can predicate how +efficient he is going to be in the presence of really dangerous game. +Only the actual trial will show. This is not a question of courage at +all, but of purely involuntary reaction of the nerves. Very few men are +physical cowards. They will and do face anything. But a great many men +are rendered inefficient by the way their nervous systems act under +stress. It is not a matter for control by will power in the slightest +degree. So the big game hunter must determine by actual trial whether it +so happens that the great excitement of danger renders his hand shaky or +steady. The excitement in either case is the same. No man is ever “cool” + in the sense that personal danger is of the same kind of indifference +to him as clambering aboard a street car. He must always be lifted +above himself, must enter an extra normal condition to meet extra normal +circumstances. He can always control his conduct; but he can by no +means always determine the way the inevitable excitement will affect his +coordinations. And unfortunately, in the final result it does not matter +how brave a man is, but how closely he can hold. If he finds that his +nervous excitement renders him unsteady, he has no business ever to +tackle dangerous game alone. If, on the other hand, he discovers that +IDENTICALLY THE SAME nervous excitement happens to steady his front +sight to rocklike rigidity-a rigidity he could not possibly attain in +normal conditions-then he will probably keep out of trouble. + +To amplify this further by a specific instance: I hunted for a short +time in Africa with a man who was always eager for exciting encounters, +whose pluck was admirable in every way, but whose nervous reaction so +manifested itself that he was utterly unable to do even decent shooting +at any range. Furthermore, his very judgment and power of observation +were so obscured that he could not remember afterward with any accuracy +what had happened-which way the beast was pointing, how many there were +of them, in which direction they went, how many shots were fired, in +short all the smaller details of the affair. He thought he remembered. +After the show was over it was quite amusing to get his version of +the incident. It was almost always so wide of the fact as to be little +recognizable. And, mind you, he was perfectly sincere in his belief, and +absolutely courageous. Only he was quite unfitted by physical make-up +for a big game hunter; and I was relieved when, after a short time, his +route and mine separated. + +Well, we clambered up that slope with a fine compound of tension, +expectation, and latent uneasiness as to just what was going to happen, +anyway. Finally, we raised the backs of the beasts, stooped, sneaked a +little nearer, and finally at a signal stood upright perhaps forty yards +from the brutes. + +For the first time I experienced a sensation I was destined many times +to repeat-that of the sheer size of the animals. Menagerie rhinoceroses +had been of the smaller Indian variety; and in any case most menagerie +beasts are more or less stunted. These two, facing us, their little eyes +blinking, looked like full-grown ironclads on dry land. The moment we +stood erect B. fired at the larger of the two. Instantly they turned and +were off at a tearing run. I opened fire, and B. let loose his second +barrel. At about two hundred and fifty yards the big rhinoceros suddenly +fell on his side, while the other continued his flight. It was all +over-very exciting because we got excited, but not in the least +dangerous. + +The boys were delighted, for here was meat in plenty for everybody. We +measured the beast, photographed him, marvelled at his immense size, and +turned him over to the gunbearers for treatment. In half an hour or so a +long string of porters headed across the hills in the direction of +camp, many miles distant, each carrying his load either of meat, or the +trophies. Rhinoceros hide, properly treated, becomes as transparent as +amber, and so from it can be made many very beautiful souvenirs, such as +bowls, trays, paper knives, table tops, whips, canes, and the like. +And, of course, the feet of one's first rhino are always saved for cigar +boxes or inkstands. + +Already we had an admiring and impatient audience. From all directions +came the carrion birds. They circled far up in the heavens; they shot +downward like plummets from a great height with an inspiring roar of +wings; they stood thick in a solemn circle all around the scene of the +kill; they rose with a heavy flapping when we moved in their direction. +Skulking forms flashed in the grass, and occasionally the pointed ears +of a jackal would rise inquiringly. + +It was by now nearly noon. The sun shone clear and hot; the heat shimmer +rose in clouds from the brown surface of the hills. In all directions +we could make out small gameherds resting motionless in the heat of the +day, the mirage throwing them into fantastic shapes. While the final +disposition was being made of the defunct rhinoceros I wandered over the +edge of the hill to see what I could see, and fairly blundered on a herd +of oryx at about a hundred and fifty yards range. They looked at me a +startled instant, then leaped away to the left at a tremendous speed. +By a lucky shot, I bowled one over. He was a beautiful beast, with his +black and white face and his straight rapierlike horns nearly three feet +long, and I was most pleased to get him. Memba Sasa came running at the +sound of the shot. We set about preparing the head. + +Then through a gap in the hills far to the left we saw a little black +speck moving rapidly in our direction. At the end of a minute we could +make it out as the second rhinoceros. He had run heaven knows how +many miles away, and now he was returning; whether with some idea of +rejoining his companion or from sheer chance, I do not know. At any +rate, here he was, still ploughing along at his swinging trot. His +course led him along a side hill about four hundred yards from where +the oryx lay. When he was directly opposite I took the Springfield and +fired, not at him, but at a spot five or six feet in front of his +nose. The bullet threw up a column of dust. Rhino brought up short with +astonishment, wheeled to the left, and made off at a gallop. I dropped +another bullet in front of him. Again he stopped, changed direction, and +made off. For the third time I hit the ground in front of him. Then he +got angry, put his head down and charged the spot. + +Five more shots I expended on the amusement of that rhinoceros; and +at the last had run furiously charging back and forth in a twenty-yard +space, very angry at the little puffing, screeching bullets, but quite +unable to catch one. Then he made up his mind and departed the way he +had come, finally disappearing as a little rapidly moving black speck +through the gap in the hills where we had first caught sight of him. + +We finished caring for the oryx, and returned to camp. To our surprise +we found we were at least seven or eight miles out. + +In this fashion days passed very quickly. The early dewy start in the +cool of the morning, the gradual grateful warming up of sunrise, and +immediately after, the rest during the midday heats under a shady tree, +the long trek back to camp at sunset, the hot bath after the toilsome +day-all these were very pleasant. Then the swift falling night, and the +gleam of many tiny fires springing up out of the darkness; with each its +sticks full of meat roasting, and its little circle of men, their skins +gleaming in the light. As we sat smoking, we would become aware that +M'ganga, the headman, was standing silent awaiting orders. Some one +would happen to see the white of his eyes, or perhaps he might smile so +that his teeth would become visible. Otherwise he might stand there an +hour, and no one the wiser, for he was respectfully silent, and exactly +the colour of the night. + +We would indicate to him our plans for the morrow, and he would +disappear. Then at a distance of twenty or thirty feet from the front +of our tents a tiny tongue of flame would lick up. Dark figures could be +seen manipulating wood. A blazing fire sprang up, against which we could +see the motionless and picturesque figure of Saa-sita (Six o'Clock), the +askari of the first night watch, leaning on his musket. He was a most +picturesque figure, for his fancy ran to original headdresses, and at +the moment he affected a wonderful upstanding structure made of marabout +wings. + +At this sign that the night had begun, we turned in. A few hyenas +moaned, a few jackals barked: otherwise the first part of the night was +silent, for the hunters were at their silent business, and the hunted +were “layin' low and sayin' nuffin'.” + +Day after day we rode out, exploring the country in different +directions. The great uncertainty as to what of interest we would find +filled the hours with charm. Sometimes we clambered about the cliffs of +the buttes trying to find klipspringers; again we ran miles pursuing the +gigantic eland. I in turn got my first rhinoceros, with no more danger +than had attended the killing of B.'s. On this occasion, however, I had +my first experience of the lightning skill of the first-class gunbearer. +Having fired both barrels, and staggered the beast, I threw open the +breech and withdrew the empty cartridges, intending, of course, as my +next move to fish two more out of my belt. The empty shells were hardly +away from the chambers, however, when a long brown arm shot over +my right shoulder and popped two fresh cartridges in the breech. So +astonished was I at this unexpected apparition, that for a second or so +I actually forgot to close the gun. + + + + + +VII. ON THE MARCH + +After leaving the First Game Camp, we travelled many hours and miles +over rolling hills piling ever higher and higher until they broke +through a pass to illimitable plains. These plains were mantled with the +dense scrub, looking from a distance and from above like the nap of soft +green velvet. Here and there this scrub broke in round or oval patches +of grass plain. Great mountain ranges peered over the edge of a horizon. +Lesser mountain peaks of fantastic shapes-sheer Yosemite cliffs, single +buttes, castles-had ventured singly from behind that same horizon +barricade. The course of a river was marked by a meandering line of +green jungle. + +It took us two days to get to that river. Our intermediate camp was +halfway down the pass. We ousted a hundred indignant straw-coloured +monkeys and twice as many baboons from the tiny flat above the water +hole. They bobbed away cursing over their shoulders at us. Next day we +debouched on the plains. They were rolling, densely grown, covered with +volcanic stones, swarming with game of various sorts. The men marched +well. They were happy, for they had had a week of meat; and each carried +a light lunch of sun-dried biltong or jerky. Some mistaken individuals +had attempted to bring along some “fresh” meat. We found it advisable to +pass to windward of these; but they themselves did not seem to mind. + +It became very hot; for we were now descending to the lower elevations. +The marching through long grass and over volcanic stones was not easy. +Shortly we came out on stumbly hills, mostly rock, very dry, grown with +cactus and discouraged desiccated thorn scrub. Here the sun reflected +powerfully and the bearers began to flag. + +Then suddenly, without warning, we pitched over a little rise to the +river. + +No more marvellous contrast could have been devised. From the blasted +barren scrub country we plunged into the lush jungle. It was not a very +wide jungle, but it was sufficient. The trees were large and variegated, +reaching to a high and spacious upper story above the ground tangle. +From the massive limbs hung vines, festooned and looped like great +serpents. Through this upper corridor flitted birds of bright hue or +striking variegation. We did not know many of them by name, nor did +we desire to; but were content with the impression of vivid flashing +movement and colour. Various monkeys swung, leaped and galloped slowly +away before our advance; pausing to look back at us curiously, the ruffs +of fur standing out all around their little black faces. The lower half +of the forest jungle, however, had no spaciousness at all, but a certain +breathless intimacy. Great leaved plants as tall as little trees, and +trees as small as big plants, bound together by vines, made up the “deep +impenetrable jungle” of our childhood imagining. Here were rustlings, +sudden scurryings, half-caught glimpses, once or twice a crash as some +greater animal made off. Here and there through the thicket wandered +well beaten trails, wide, but low, so that to follow them one would have +to bend double. These were the paths of rhinoceroses. The air smelt warm +and moist and earthy, like the odour of a greenhouse. + +We skirted this jungle until it gave way to let the plain down to the +river. Then, in an open grove of acacias, and fairly on the river's +bank, we pitched our tents. + +These acacia trees were very noble big chaps, with many branches and a +thick shade. In their season they are wonderfully blossomed with white, +with yellow, sometimes even with vivid red flowers. Beneath them was +only a small matter of ferns to clear away. + +Before us the sodded bank rounded off ten feet the river itself. At this +point far up in its youth it was a friendly river. Its noble width ran +over shallows of yellow sand or of small pebbles. Save for unexpected +deep holes one could wade across it anywhere. Yet it was very wide, with +still reaches of water, with islands of gigantic papyrus, with sand bars +dividing the current, and with always the vista for a greater or lesser +distance down through the jungle along its banks. From our canvas chairs +we could look through on one side to the arid country, and on the other +to this tropical wonderland. + +Yes, at this point in its youth it was indeed a friendly river in every +sense of the word. There are three reasons, ordinarily, why one cannot +bathe in the African rivers. In the first place, they are nearly all +disagreeably muddy; in the second place, cold water in a tropical +climate causes horrible congestions; in the third place they swarm +with crocodiles and hippos. But this river was as yet unpolluted by the +alluvial soil of the lower countries; the sun on its shallows had warmed +its waters almost to blood heat; and the beasts found no congenial +haunts in these clear shoals. Almost before our tents were up the men +were splashing. And always my mental image of that river's beautiful +expanse must include round black heads floating like gourds where the +water ran smoothest. + +Our tents stood all in a row facing the stream, the great trees at +their backs. Down in the grove the men had pitched their little white +shelters. Happily they settled down to ease. Settling down to ease, in +the case of the African porter, consists in discarding as many clothes +as possible. While on the march he wears everything he owns; whether +from pride or a desire to simplify transportation I am unable to say. He +is supplied by his employer with a blanket and jersey. As supplementals +he can generally produce a half dozen white man's ill-assorted garments: +an old shooting coat, a ragged pair of khaki breeches, a kitchen +tablecloth for a skirt, or something of the sort. If he can raise an +overcoat he is happy, especially if it happen to be a long, thick WINTER +overcoat. The possessor of such a garment will wear it conscientiously +throughout the longest journey and during the hottest noons. But when he +relaxes in camp, he puts away all these prideful possessions and turns +out in the savage simplicity of his red blanket. Draped negligently, +sometimes very negligently, in what may be termed semi-toga fashion, +he stalks about or squats before his little fire in all the glory of a +regained savagery. The contrast of the red with his red bronze or black +skin, the freedom and grace of his movements, the upright carriage of +his fine figure, and the flickering savagery playing in his eyes are +very effective. + +Our men occupied their leisure variously and happily. A great deal of +time they spent before their tiny fires roasting meat and talking. This +talk was almost invariably of specific personal experiences. They bathed +frequently and with pleasure. They slept. Between times they fashioned +ingenious affairs of ornament or use: bows and arrows, throwing clubs, +snuff-boxes of the tips of antelope horns, bound prettily with bright +wire, wooden swords beautifully carved in exact imitation of the +white man's service weapon, and a hundred other such affairs. At this +particular time also they were much occupied in making sandals against +the thorns. These were flat soles of rawhide, the edges pounded to make +them curl up a trifle over the foot, fastened by thongs; very ingenious, +and very useful. To their task they brought song. The labour of Africa +is done to song; weird minor chanting starting high in the falsetto to +trickle unevenly down to the lower registers, or where the matter is one +of serious effort, an antiphony of solo and chorus. From all parts +of the camp come these softly modulated chantings, low and sweet, +occasionally breaking into full voice as the inner occasion swells, +then almost immediately falling again to the murmuring undertone of more +concentrated attention. + +The red blanket was generally worn knotted from one shoulder or bound +around the waist Malay fashion. When it turned into a cowl, with a +miserable and humpbacked expression, it became the Official Badge of +Illness. No matter what was the matter that was the proper thing to +do-to throw the blanket over the head and to assume as miserable a +demeanour as possible. A sore toe demanded just as much concentrated +woe as a case of pneumonia. Sick call was cried after the day's work was +finished. Then M'ganga or one of the askaris lifted up his voice. + +“N'gonjwa! n'gonjwa!” he shouted; and at the shout the red cowls +gathered in front of the tent. Three things were likely to be the +matter: too much meat, fever, or pus infection from slight wounds. To +these in the rainy season would be added the various sorts of colds. +That meant either Epsom salts, quinine, or a little excursion with +the lancet and permanganate. The African traveller gets to be heap big +medicine man within these narrow limits. + +All the red cowls squatted miserably, oh, very miserably, in a row. +The headman stood over them rather fiercely. We surveyed the lot +contemplatively, hoping to heaven that nothing complicated was going to +turn up. One of the tent boys hovered in the background as dispensing +chemist. + +“Well,” said F. at last, “what's the matter with you?” + +The man indicated pointed to his head and the back of his neck and +groaned. If he had a slight headache he groaned just as much as +though his head were splitting. F. asked a few questions, and took +his temperature. The clinical thermometer is in itself considered big +medicine, and often does much good. + +“Too much meat, my friend,” remarked F. in English, and to his boy in +Swahili, “bring the cup.” + +He put in this cup a triple dose of Epsom salts. The African requires +three times a white man's dose. This, pathologically, was all that was +required: but psychologically the job was just begun. Your African can +do wonderful things with his imagination. If he thinks he is going to +die, die he will, and very promptly, even though he is ailing of the +most trivial complaint. If he thinks he is going to get well, he is +very apt to do so in face of extraordinary odds. Therefore the white +man desires not only to start his patient's internal economy with Epsom +salts, but also to stir his faith. To this end F. added to that triple +dose of medicine a spoonful of Chutney, one of Worcestershire sauce, +a few grains of quinine, Sparklets water and a crystal or so of +permanganate to turn the mixture a beautiful pink. This assortment the +patient drank with gratitude-and the tears running down his cheeks. + +“He will carry a load to-morrow,” F. told the attentive M'ganga. + +The next patient had fever. This one got twenty grains of quinine in +water. + +“This man carries no load to-morrow,” was the direction, “but he must +not drop behind.” + +Two or three surgical cases followed. Then a big Kavirondo rose to his +feet. + +“Nini?” demanded F. + +“Homa-fever,” whined the man. + +F. clapped his hand on the back of the other's neck. + +“I think,” he remarked contemplatively in English, “that you're a liar, +and want to get out of carrying your load.” + +The clinical thermometer showed no evidence of temperature. + +“I'm pretty near sure you're a liar,” observed F. in the pleasantest +conversational tone and still in English, “but you may be merely a poor +diagnostician. Perhaps your poor insides couldn't get away with that +rotten meat I saw you lugging around. We'll see.” + +So he mixed a pint of medicine. + +“There's Epsom salts for the real part of trouble,” observed F., still +talking to himself, “and here's a few things for the fake.” + +He then proceeded to concoct a mixture whose recoil was the exact +measure of his imagination. The imagination was only limited by the +necessity of keeping the mixture harmless. Every hot, biting, nauseous +horror in camp went into that pint measure. + +“There,” concluded F., “if you drink that and come back again to-morrow +for treatment, I'll believe you ARE sick.” + +Without undue pride I would like to record that I was the first to think +of putting in a peculiarly nauseous gun oil, and thereby acquired a +reputation of making tremendous medicine. + +So implicit is this faith in white man's medicine that at one of the +Government posts we were approached by one of the secondary chiefs of +the district. He was a very nifty savage, dressed for calling, with his +hair done in ropes like a French poodle's, his skin carefully oiled and +reddened, his armlets and necklets polished, and with the ceremonial +ball of black feathers on the end of his long spear. His gait was the +peculiar mincing teeter of savage conventional society. According to +custom, he approached unsmiling, spat carefully in his palm, and shook +hands. Then he squatted and waited. + +“What is it?” we asked after it became evident he really wanted +something besides the pleasure of our company. + +“N'dowa-medicine,” said he. + +“Why do you not go the Government dispensary?” we demanded. + +“The doctor there is an Indian; I want REAL medicine, white man's +medicine,” he explained. + +Immensely flattered, of course, we wanted further to know what ailed +him. + +“Nothing,” said he blandly, “nothing at all; but it seemed an excellent +chance to get good medicine.” + +After the clinic was all attended to, we retired to our tents and the +screeching-hot bath so grateful in the tropics. When we emerged, in +our mosquito boots and pajamas, the daylight was gone. Scores of little +blazes licked and leaped in the velvet blackness round about, casting +the undergrowth and the lower branches of the trees into flat planes +like the cardboard of a stage setting. Cheerful, squatted figures sat in +silhouette or in the relief of chance high light. Long switches of +meat roasted before the fires. A hum of talk, bursts of laughter, the +crooning of minor chants mingled with the crackling of thorns. Before +our tents stood the table set for supper. Beyond it lay the pile of +firewood, later to be burned on the altar of our safety against beasts. +The moonlight was casting milky shadows over the river and under the +trees opposite. In those shadows gleamed many fireflies. Overhead were +millions of stars, and a little breeze that wandered through upper +branches. + +But in Equatorial Africa the simple bands of velvet black, against the +spangled brightnesses that make up the visual night world, must give way +in interest to the other world of sound. The air hums with an undertone +of insects; the plain and hill and jungle are populous with voices +furtive or bold. In daytime one sees animals enough, in all conscience, +but only at night does he sense the almost oppressive feeling of the +teeming life about him. The darkness is peopled. Zebra bark, bucks blow +or snort or make the weird noises of their respective species; hyenas +howl; out of an immense simian silence a group of monkeys suddenly break +into chatterings; ostriches utter their deep hollow boom; small things +scurry and squeak; a certain weird bird of the curlew or plover sort +wails like a lonesome soul. Especially by the river, as here, are the +boomings of the weirdest of weird bullfrogs, and the splashings and +swishings of crocodile and hippopotamus. One is impressed with the +busyness of the world surrounding him; every bird or beast, the hunter +and the hunted, is the centre of many important affairs. The world +swarms. + +And then, some miles away a lion roars, the earth and air vibrating to +the sheer power of the sound. The world falls to a blank dead silence. +For a full minute every living creature of the jungle or of the veldt +holds its breath. Their lord has spoken. + +After dinner we sat in our canvas chairs, smoking. The guard fire in +front of our tent had been lit. On the other side of it stood one of our +askaris leaning on his musket. He and his three companions, turn about, +keep the flames bright against the fiercer creatures. + +After a time we grew sleepy. I called Saa-sita and entrusted to him my +watch. On the crystal of this I had pasted a small piece of surgeon's +plaster. When the hour hand reached the surgeon's plaster, he must wake +us up. Saa-sita was a very conscientious and careful man. One day I took +some time hitching my pedometer properly to his belt: I could not wear +it effectively myself because I was on horseback. At the end of the +ten-hour march it registered a mile and a fraction. Saa-sita explained +that he wished to take especial care of it, so he had wrapped it in a +cloth and carried it all day in his hand! + +We turned in. As I reached over to extinguish the lantern I issued my +last command for the day. + +“Watcha kalele, Saa-sita,” I told the askari; at once he lifted up +his voice to repeat my words. “Watcha kalele!” Immediately from the +Responsible all over camp the word came back-from gunbearers, from +M'ganga, from tent boys-“kalele! kalele! kalele!” + +Thus commanded, the boisterous fun, the croon of intimate talk, the +gently rising and falling tide of melody fell to complete silence. Only +remained the crackling of the fire and the innumerable voices of the +tropical night. + + + + + +VIII. THE RIVER JUNGLE + +We camped along this river for several weeks, poking indefinitely and +happily around the country in all directions to see what we could see. +Generally we went together, for neither B. nor myself had been tried out +as yet on dangerous game-those easy rhinos hardly counted-and I think we +both preferred to feel that we had backing until we knew what our nerves +were going to do with us. Nevertheless, occasionally, I would take Memba +Sasa and go out for a little purposeless stroll a few miles up or down +river. Sometimes we skirted the jungle, sometimes we held as near as +possible to the river's bank, sometimes we cut loose and rambled through +the dry, crackling scrub over the low volcanic hills of the arid country +outside. + +Nothing can equal the intense interest of the most ordinary walk in +Africa. It is the only country I know of where a man is thoroughly and +continuously alive. Often when riding horseback with the dogs in my +California home I have watched them in envy of the keen, alert interest +they took in every stone, stick, and bush, in every sight, sound, and +smell. With equal frequency I have expressed that envy, but as something +unattainable to a human being's more phlegmatic make-up. In Africa one +actually rises to continuous alertness. There are dozy moments-except +you curl up in a safe place for the PURPOSE of dozing; again just like +the dog! Every bush, every hollow, every high tuft of grass, every deep +shadow must be scrutinized for danger. It will not do to pass carelessly +any possible lurking place. At the same time the sense of hearing +must be on guard; so that no break of twig or crash of bough can go +unremarked. Rhinoceroses conceal themselves most cannily, and have a +deceitful habit of leaping from a nap into their swiftest stride. Cobras +and puff adders are scarce, to be sure, but very deadly. Lions will +generally give way, if not shot at or too closely pressed; nevertheless +there is always the chance of cubs or too close a surprise. Buffalo lurk +daytimes in the deep thickets, but occasionally a rogue bull lives where +your trail will lead. These things do not happen often, but in the long +run they surely do happen, and once is quite enough provided the beast +gets in. + +At first this continual alertness and tension is rather exhausting; but +after a very short time it becomes second nature. A sudden rustle the +other side a bush no longer brings you up all standing with your heart +in your throat; but you are aware of it, and you are facing the possible +danger almost before your slower brain has issued any orders to that +effect. + +In rereading the above, I am afraid that I am conveying the idea that +one here walks under the shadow of continual uneasiness. This is not in +the least so. One enjoys the sun, and the birds and the little things. +He cultivates the great leisure of mind that shall fill the breadth of +his outlook abroad over a newly wonderful world. But underneath it all +is the alertness, the responsiveness to quick reflexes of judgment and +action, the intimate correlations to immediate environment which must +characterize the instincts of the higher animals. And it is good to live +these things. + +Along the edge of that river jungle were many strange and beautiful +affairs. I could slip along among the high clumps of the thicker bushes +in such a manner as to be continually coming around unexpected bends. Of +such maneouvres are surprises made. The graceful red impalla were here +very abundant. I would come on them, their heads up, their great ears +flung forward, their noses twitching in inquiry of something they +suspected but could not fully sense. When slightly alarmed or suspicious +the does always stood compactly in a herd, while the bucks remained +discreetly in the background, their beautiful, branching, widespread +horns showing over the backs of their harems. The impalla is, in my +opinion, one of the most beautiful and graceful of the African bucks, a +perpetual delight to watch either standing or running. These beasts are +extraordinarily agile, and have a habit of breaking their ordinary fast +run by unexpectedly leaping high in the air. At a distance they give +somewhat the effect of dolphins at sea, only their leaps are higher and +more nearly perpendicular. Once or twice I have even seen one jump over +the back of another. On another occasion we saw a herd of twenty-five or +thirty cross a road of which, evidently, they were a little suspicious. +We could not find a single hoof mark in the dust! Generally these beasts +frequent thin brush country; but I have three or four times seen them +quite out in the open flat plains, feeding with the hartebeeste and +zebra. They are about the size of our ordinary deer, are delicately +fashioned, and can utter the most incongruously grotesque of noises by +way of calls or ordinary conversation. + +The lack of curiosity, or the lack of gallantry, of the impalla bucks +was, in my experience, quite characteristic. They were almost always the +farthest in the background and the first away when danger threatened. +The ladies could look out for themselves. They had no horns to save; +and what do the fool women mean by showing so little sense, anyway! They +deserve what they get! It used to amuse me a lot to observe the utter +abandonment of all responsibility by these handsome gentlemen. When it +came time to depart, they departed. Hang the girls! They trailed along +after as fast as they could. + +The waterbuck-a fine large beast about the size of our caribou, a +well-conditioned buck resembling in form and attitude the finest +of Landseer's stags-on the other hand, had a little more sense of +responsibility, when he had anything to do with the sex at all. He was +hardly what you might call a strictly domestic character. I have hunted +through a country for several days at a time without seeing a single +mature buck of this species, although there were plenty of does, in +herds of ten to fifty, with a few infants among them just sprouting +horns. Then finally, in some small grassy valley, I would come on the +Men's Club. There they were, ten, twenty, three dozen of them, having +the finest kind of an untramelled masculine time all by themselves. +Generally, however, I will say for them, they took care of their own +peoples. There would quite likely be one big old fellow, his harem of +varying numbers, and the younger subordinate bucks all together in a +happy family. When some one of the lot announced that something was +about, and they had all lined up to stare in the suspected direction, +the big buck was there in the foreground of inquiry. When finally they +made me out, it was generally the big buck who gave the signal. He +went first, to be sure, but his going first was evidently an act of +leadership, and not merely a disgraceful desire to get away before the +rest did. + +But the waterbuck had to yield in turn to the plains +gazelles; especially to the Thompson's gazelle, familiarly-and +affectionately-known as the “Tommy.” He is a quaint little chap, +standing only a foot and a half tall at the shoulder, fawn colour on +top, white beneath, with a black, horizontal stripe on his side, like +a chipmunk, most lightly and gracefully built. When he was first made, +somebody told him that unless he did something characteristic, +like waggling his little tail, he was likely to be mistaken by the +undiscriminating for his bigger cousin, the Grant's gazelle. He has +waggled his tail ever since, and so is almost never mistaken for a +Grant's gazelle, even by the undiscriminating. Evidently his religion is +Mohammedan, for he always has a great many wives. He takes good care of +them, however. When danger appears, even when danger threatens, he +is the last to leave the field. Here and there he dashes frantically, +seeing that the women and children get off. And when the herd tops the +hill, Tommy's little horns bring up the rear of the procession. I like +Tommy. He is a cheerful, gallant, quaint little person, with the air of +being quite satisfied with his own solution of this complicated world. + +Among the low brush at the edge of the river jungle dwelt also the +dik-dik, the tiniest miniature of a deer you could possibly imagine. +His legs are lead pencil size, he stands only about nine inches tall, he +weighs from five to ten pounds; and yet he is a perfect little antelope, +horns and all. I used to see him singly or in pairs standing quite +motionless and all but invisible in the shade of bushes; or leaping +suddenly to his feet and scurrying away like mad through the dry grass. +His personal opinion of me was generally expressed in a loud clear +whistle. But then nobody in this strange country talks the language you +would naturally expect him to talk! Zebra bark, hyenas laugh, impallas +grunt, ostriches boom like drums, leopards utter a plaintive sigh, +hornbills cry like a stage child, bushbucks sound like a cross between +a dog and a squawky toy-and so on. There is only one safe rule of the +novice in Africa: NEVER BELIEVE A WORD THE JUNGLE AND VELDT PEOPLE TELL +YOU. + +These two-the impalla and the waterbuck-were the principal buck we would +see close to the river. Occasionally, however, we came on a few oryx, +down for a drink, beautiful big antelope, with white and black faces, +roached manes, and straight, nearly parallel, rapier horns upward of +three feet long. A herd of these creatures, the light gleaming on their +weapons, held all at the same slant, was like a regiment of bayonets in +the sun. And there were also the rhinoceroses to be carefully espied +and avoided. They lay obliterated beneath the shade of bushes, and arose +with a mighty blow-off of steam. Whereupon we withdrew silently, for we +wanted to shoot no more rhinos, unless we had to. + +Beneath all these obvious and startling things, a thousand other +interesting matters were afoot. In the mass and texture of the jungle +grew many strange trees and shrubs. One most scrubby, fat and leafless +tree, looking as though it were just about to give up a discouraged +existence, surprised us by putting forth, apparently directly from +its bloated wood, the most wonderful red blossoms. Another otherwise +self-respecting tree hung itself all over with plump bologna sausages +about two feet long and five inches thick. A curious vine hung like a +rope, with Turk's-head knots about a foot apart on its whole length, +like the hand-over-hand ropes of gymnasiums. Other ropes were studded +all over with thick blunt bosses, resembling much the outbreak on one +sort of Arts-and-Crafts door: the sort intended to repel Mail-clad +Hosts. + +The monkeys undoubtedly used such obvious highways through the trees. +These little people were very common. As we walked along, they withdrew +before us. We could make out their figures galloping hastily across the +open places, mounting bushes and stubs to take a satisfying backward +look, clambering to treetops, and launching themselves across the +abysses between limbs. If we went slowly, they retired in silence. If +we hurried at all, they protested in direct ratio to the speed of +our advance. And when later the whole safari, loads on heads, marched +inconsiderately through their jungle! We happened to be hunting on a +parallel course a half mile away, and we could trace accurately the +progress of our men by the outraged shrieks, chatterings, appeals to +high heaven for at least elemental justice to the monkey people. + +Often, too, we would come on concourses of the big baboons. They +certainly carried on weighty affairs of their own according to a fixed +polity. I never got well enough acquainted with them to master the +details of their government, but it was indubitably built on patriarchal +lines. When we succeeded in approaching without being discovered, we +would frequently find the old men baboons squatting on their heels in a +perfect circle, evidently discussing matters of weight and portent. Seen +from a distance, their group so much resembled the council circles +of native warriors that sometimes, in a native country, we made that +mistake. Outside this solemn council, the women, young men and children +went about their daily business, whatever that was. Up convenient low +trees or bushes roosted sentinels. + +We never remained long undiscovered. One of the sentinels barked +sharply. At once the whole lot loped away, speedily but with a curious +effect of deliberation. The men folks held their tails in a proud high +sideways arch; the curious youngsters clambered up bushes to take a +hasty look; the babies clung desperately with all four feet to the thick +fur on their mothers' backs; the mothers galloped along imperturbably +unheeding of infantile troubles aloft. The side hill was bewildering +with the big bobbing black forms. + +In this lower country the weather was hot, and the sun very strong. The +heated air was full of the sounds of insects; some of them comfortable, +like the buzzing of bees, some of them strange and unusual to us. One +cicada had a sustained note, in quality about like that of our own +August-day's friend, but in quantity and duration as the roar of a train +to the gentle hum of a good motor car. Like all cicada noises it did not +usurp the sound world, but constituted itself an underlying basis, so +to speak. And when it stopped the silence seemed to rush in as into a +vacuum! + +We had likewise the aeroplane beetle. He was so big that he would have +made good wing-shooting. His manner of flight was the straight-ahead, +heap-of-buzz, plenty-busy, don't-stop-a-minute-or-you'll-come-down +method of the aeroplane; and he made the same sort of a hum. His +first-cousin, mechanically, was what we called the wind-up-the-watch +insect. This specimen possessed a watch-an old-fashioned Waterbury, +evidently-that he was continually winding. It must have been hard work +for the poor chap, for it sounded like a very big watch. + +All these things were amusing. So were the birds. The African bird is +quite inclined to be didactic. He believes you need advice, and he means +to give it. To this end he repeats the same thing over and over until +he thinks you surely cannot misunderstand. One chap especially whom we +called the lawyer bird, and who lived in the treetops, had four phrases +to impart. He said them very deliberately, with due pause between each; +then he repeated them rapidly; finally he said them all over again with +an exasperated bearing-down emphasis. The joke of it is I cannot now +remember just how they went! Another feathered pedagogue was continually +warning us to go slow; very good advice near an African jungle. +“Poley-poley! Poley-poley!” he warned again and again; which is good +Swahili for “slowly! slowly!” We always minded him. There were many +others, equally impressed with their own wisdom, but the one I remember +with most amusement was a dilatory person who apparently never got +around to his job until near sunset. Evidently he had contracted to +deliver just so many warnings per diem; and invariably he got so busy +chasing insects, enjoying the sun, gossiping with a friend and generally +footling about that the late afternoon caught him unawares with never a +chirp accomplished. So he sat in a bush and said his say over and over +just as fast as he could without pause for breath or recreation. It was +really quite a feat. Just at dusk, after two hours of gabbling, he would +reach the end of his contracted number. With final relieved chirp he +ended. + +It has been said that African birds are “songless.” This is a careless +statement that can easily be read to mean that African birds are silent. +The writer evidently must have had in mind as a criterion some of our +own or the English great feathered soloists. Certainly the African +jungle seems to produce no individual performers as sustained as our own +bob-o-link, our hermit thrush, or even our common robin. But the African +birds are vocal enough, for all that. Some of them have a richness and +depth of timbre perhaps unequalled elsewhere. Of such is the chime-bird +with his deep double note; or the bell-bird tolling like a cathedral in +the blackness of the forest; or the bottle bird that apparently pours +gurgling liquid gold from a silver jug. As the jungle is exceedingly +populous of these feathered specialists, it follows that the early +morning chorus is wonderful. Africa may not possess the soloists, but +its full orchestrial effects are superb. + +Naturally under the equator one expects and demands the “gorgeous +tropical plumage” of the books. He is not disappointed. The sun-birds +of fifty odd species, the brilliant blue starlings, the various parrots, +the variegated hornbills, the widower-birds, and dozens of others whose +names would mean nothing flash here and there in the shadow and in the +open. With them are hundreds of quiet little bodies just as interesting +to one who likes birds. From the trees and bushes hang pear-shaped +nests plaited beautifully of long grasses, hard and smooth as hand-made +baskets, the work of the various sorts of weaver-birds. In the tops of +the trees roosted tall marabout storks like dissipated, hairless old +club-men in well-groomed, correct evening dress. + +And around camp gathered the swift brown kites. They were robbers and +villains, but we could not hate them. All day long they sailed back +and forth spying sharply. When they thought they saw their chance, they +stooped with incredible swiftness to seize a piece of meat. Sometimes +they would snatch their prize almost from the hands of its rightful +owner, and would swoop triumphantly upward again pursued by polyglot +maledictions and a throwing stick. They were very skilful on their +wings. I have many times seen them, while flying, tear up and devour +large chunks of meat. It seems to my inexperience as an aviator rather a +nice feat to keep your balance while tearing with your beak at meat held +in your talons. Regardless of other landmarks, we always knew when we +were nearing camp, after one of our strolls, by the gracefully wheeling +figures of our kites. + + + + + +IX. THE FIRST LION + +One day we all set out to make our discoveries: F., B., and I with our +gunbearers, Memba Sasa, Mavrouki, and Simba, and ten porters to bring +in the trophies, which we wanted very much, and the meat, which the men +wanted still more. We rode our horses, and the syces followed. This made +quite a field force-nineteen men all told. Nineteen white men would be +exceedingly unlikely to get within a liberal half mile of anything; but +the native has sneaky ways. + +At first we followed between the river and the low hills, but when the +latter drew back to leave open a broad flat, we followed their line. At +this point they rose to a clifflike headland a hundred and fifty feet +high, flat on top. We decided to investigate that mesa, both for the +possibilities of game, and for the chance of a view abroad. + +The footing was exceedingly noisy and treacherous, for it was composed +of flat, tinkling little stones. Dried-up, skimpy bushes just higher +than our heads made a thin but regular cover. There seemed not to be a +spear of anything edible, yet we caught the flash of red as a herd of +impalla melted away at our rather noisy approach. Near the foot of the +hill we dismounted, with orders to all the men but the gunbearers to +sit down and make themselves comfortable. Should we need them we could +easily either signal or send word. Then we set ourselves toilsomely to +clamber up that volcanic hill. + +It was not particularly easy going, especially as we were trying to walk +quietly. You see, we were about to surmount a skyline. Surmounting a +skyline is always most exciting anywhere, for what lies beyond is at +once revealed as a whole and contains the very essence of the unknown; +but most decidedly is this true in Africa. That mesa looked flat, and +almost anything might be grazing or browsing there. So we proceeded +gingerly, with due regard to the rolling of the loose rocks or the +tinkling of the little pebbles. + +But long before we had reached that alluring skyline we were halted by +the gentle snapping of Mavrouki's fingers. That, strangely enough, is a +sound to which wild animals seem to pay no attention, and is therefore +most useful as a signal. We looked back. The three gunbearers were +staring to the right of our course. About a hundred yards away, on +the steep side hill, and partly concealed by the brush, stood two +rhinoceroses. + +They were side by side, apparently dozing. We squatted on our heels for +a consultation. + +The obvious thing, as the wind was from them, was to sneak quietly by, +saying nuffin' to nobody. But although we wanted no more rhino, we very +much wanted rhino pictures. A discussion developed no really good reason +why we should not kodak these especial rhinos-except that there were two +of them. So we began to worm our way quietly through the bushes in their +direction. + +F. and B. deployed on the flanks, their double-barrelled rifles ready +for instant action. I occupied the middle with that dangerous weapon the +3A kodak. Memba Sasa followed at my elbow, holding my big gun. + +Now the trouble with modern photography is that it is altogether too +lavish in its depiction of distances. If you do not believe it, take a +picture of a horse at as short a range as twenty-five yards. That equine +will, in the development, have receded to a respectable middle distance. +Therefore it had been agreed that the advance of the battle line was +to cease only when those rhinoceroses loomed up reasonably large in +the finder. I kept looking into the finder, you may be sure. Nearer and +nearer we crept. The great beasts were evidently basking in the sun. +Their little pig eyes alone gave any sign of life. Otherwise they +exhibited the complete immobility of something done in granite. Probably +no other beast impresses one with quite this quality. I suppose it is +because even the little motions peculiar to other animals are with +the rhinoceros entirely lacking. He is not in the least of a nervous +disposition, so he does not stamp his feet nor change his position. It +is useless for him to wag his tail; for, in the first place, the tail is +absurdly inadequate; and, in the second place, flies are not among his +troubles. Flies wouldn't bother you either, if you had a skin two inches +thick. So there they stood, inert and solid as two huge brown rocks, +save for the deep, wicked twinkle of their little eyes. + +Yes, we were close enough to “see the whites of their eyes,” if they +had had any: and also to be within the range of their limited vision. Of +course we were now stalking, and taking advantage of all the cover. + +Those rhinoceroses looked to me like two Dreadnaughts. The African +two-horned rhinoceros is a bigger animal anyway than our circus friend, +who generally comes from India. One of these brutes I measured went five +feet nine inches at the shoulder, and was thirteen feet six inches from +bow to stern. Compare these dimensions with your own height and with the +length of your motor car. It is one thing to take on such beasts in the +hurry of surprise, the excitement of a charge, or to stalk up to within +a respectable range of them with a gun at ready. But this deliberate +sneaking up with the hope of being able to sneak away again was a little +too slow and cold-blooded. It made me nervous. I liked it, but I knew +at the time I was going to like it a whole lot better when it was +triumphantly over. + +We were now within twenty yards (they were standing starboard side on), +and I prepared to get my picture. To do so I would either have to step +quietly out into sight, trusting to the shadow and the slowness of my +movements to escape observation, or hold the camera above the bush, +directing it by guess work. It was a little difficult to decide. I knew +what I OUGHT to do-- + +Without the slightest premonitory warning those two brutes snorted and +whirled in their tracks to stand facing in our direction. After the dead +stillness they made a tremendous row, what with the jerky suddenness of +their movements, their loud snorts, and the avalanche of echoing stones +and boulders they started down the hill. + +This was the magnificent opportunity. At this point I should boldly +have stepped out from behind my bush, levelled my trusty 3A, and coolly +snapped the beasts, “charging at fifteen yards.” Then, if B.'s and F.'s +shots went absolutely true, or if the brutes didn't happen to smash the +camera as well as me, I, or my executors as the case might be, would +have had a fine picture. + +But I didn't. I dropped that expensive 3A Special on some hard rocks, +and grabbed my rifle from Memba Sasa. If you want really to know why, go +confront your motor car at fifteen or twenty paces, multiply him by two, +and endow him with an eagerly malicious disposition. + +They advanced several yards, halted, faced us for perhaps five or +six seconds, uttered snort, whirled with the agility of polo ponies, +departed at a swinging trot and with surprising agility along the steep +side hill. + +I recovered the camera, undamaged, and we continued our climb. + +The top of the mesa was disappointing as far as game was concerned. It +was covered all over with red stones, round, and as large as a man's +head. Thornbushes found some sort of sustenance in the interstices. + +But we had gained to a magnificent view. Below us lay the narrow flat, +then the winding jungle of our river, then long rolling desert country, +gray with thorn scrub, sweeping upward to the base of castellated buttes +and one tremendous riven cliff mountain, dropping over the horizon to a +very distant blue range. Behind us eight or ten miles away was the low +ridge through which our journey had come. The mesa on which we stood +broke back at right angles to admit another stream flowing into our own. +Beyond this stream were rolling hills, and scrub country, the hint of +blue peaks and illimitable distances falling away to the unknown Tara +Desert and the sea. + +There seemed to be nothing much to be gained here, so we made up our +minds to cut across the mesa, and from the other edge of it to overlook +the valley of the tributary river. This we would descend until we came +to our horses. + +Accordingly we stumbled across a mile or so of those round and rolling +stones. Then we found ourselves overlooking a wide flat or pocket where +the stream valley widened. It extended even as far as the upward fling +of the barrier ranges. Thick scrub covered it, but erratically, so that +here and there were little openings or thin places. We sat down, manned +our trusty prism glasses, and gave ourselves to the pleasing occupation +of looking the country over inch by inch. + +This is great fun. It is a game a good deal like puzzle pictures. +Re-examination generally develops new and unexpected beasts. We repeated +to each other aloud the results of our scrutiny, always without removing +the glasses from our eyes. + +“Oryx, one,” said F.; “oryx, two.” + +“Giraffe,” reported B., “and a herd of impalla.” + +I saw another giraffe, and another oryx, then two rhinoceroses. + +The three bearers squatted on their heels behind us, their fierce eyes +staring straight ahead, seeing with the naked eye what we were finding +with six-power glasses. + +We turned to descend the hill. In the very centre of the deep shade of +a clump of trees, I saw the gleam of a waterbuck's horns. While I was +telling of this, the beast stepped from his concealment, trotted a short +distance upstream and turned to climb a little ridge parallel to that +by which we were descending. About halfway up he stopped, staring in +our direction, his head erect, the slight ruff under his neck standing +forward. He was a good four hundred yards away. B., who wanted him, +decided the shot too chancy. He and F. slipped backward until they had +gained the cover of the little ridge, then hastened down the bed of +the ravine. Their purpose was to follow the course already taken by the +waterbuck until they should have sneaked within better range. In the +meantime I and the gunbearers sat down in full view of the buck. This +was to keep his attention distracted. + +We sat there a long time. The buck never moved but continued to stare +at what evidently puzzled him. Time passes very slowly in such +circumstances, and it seemed incredible that the beast should continue +much longer to hold his fixed attitude. Nevertheless B. and F. were +working hard. We caught glimpses of them occasionally slipping from bush +to bush. Finally B. knelt and levelled his rifle. At once I turned my +glasses on the buck. Before the sound of the rifle had reached me, I saw +him start convulsively, then make off at the tearing run that indicates +a heart hit. A moment later the crack of the rifle and the dull plunk of +the hitting bullet struck my ear. + +We tracked him fifty yards to where he lay dead. He was a fine trophy, +and we at once set the boys to preparing it and taking the meat. In the +meantime we sauntered down to look at the stream. It was a small +rapid affair, but in heavy papyrus, with sparse trees, and occasional +thickets, and dry hard banks. The papyrus should make a good lurking +place for almost anything; but the few points of access to the water +failed to show many interesting tracks. Nevertheless we decided to +explore a short distance. + +For an hour we walked among high thornbushes, over baking hot earth. We +saw two or three dik-dik and one of the giraffes. At that time it had +become very hot, and the sun was bearing down on us as with the weight +of a heavy hand. The air had the scorching, blasting quality of an +opened furnace door. Our mouths were getting dry and sticky in that +peculiar stage of thirst on which no luke-warm canteen water in +necessarily limited quantity has any effect. So we turned back, picked +up the men with the waterbuck, and plodded on down the little stream, +or, rather, on the red-hot dry valley bottom outside the stream's +course, to where the syces were waiting with our horses. We mounted with +great thankfulness. It was now eleven o'clock, and we considered our day +as finished. + +The best way for a distance seemed to follow the course of the tributary +stream to its point of junction with our river. We rode along, rather +relaxed in the suffocating heat. F. was nearest the stream. At one point +it freed itself of trees and brush and ran clear, save for low papyrus, +ten feet down below a steep eroded bank. F. looked over and uttered a +startled exclamation. I spurred my horse forward to see. + +Below us, about fifteen yards away, was the carcass of a waterbuck half +hidden in the foot-high grass. A lion and two lionesses stood upon it, +staring up at us with great yellow eyes. That picture is a very vivid +one in my memory, for those were the first wild lions I had ever seen. +My most lively impression was of their unexpected size. They seemed to +bulk fully a third larger than my expectation. + +The magnificent beasts stood only long enough to see clearly what had +disturbed them, then turned, and in two bounds had gained the shelter of +the thicket. + +Now the habit in Africa is to let your gunbearers carry all your guns. +You yourself stride along hand free. It is an English idea, and +is pretty generally adopted out there by every one, of whatever +nationality. They will explain it to you by saying that in such a +climate a man should do only necessary physical work, and that a +good gunbearer will get a weapon into your hand so quickly and in so +convenient a position that you will lose no time. I acknowledge the +gunbearers are sometimes very skilful at this, but I do deny that there +is no loss of time. The instant of distracted attention while receiving +a weapon, the necessity of recollecting the nervous correlations +after the transfer, very often mark just the difference between a sure +instinctive snapshot and a lost opportunity. It reasons that the man +with the rifle in his hand reacts instinctively, in one motion, to get +his weapon into play. If the gunbearer has the gun, HE must first react +to pass it up, the master must receive it properly, and THEN, and not +until then, may go on from where the other man began. As for physical +labour in the tropics: if a grown man cannot without discomfort or evil +effects carry an eight-pound rifle, he is too feeble to go out at all. +In a long Western experience I have learned never to be separated from +my weapon; and I believe the continuance of this habit in Africa saved +me a good number of chances. + +At any rate, we all flung ourselves off our horses. I, having my +rifle in my hand, managed to throw a shot after the biggest lion as he +vanished. It was a snap at nothing, and missed. Then in an opening on +the edge a hundred yards away appeared one of the lionesses. She was +trotting slowly, and on her I had time to draw a hasty aim. At the shot +she bounded high in the air, fell, rolled over, and was up and into the +thicket before I had much more than time to pump up another shell from +the magazine. Memba Sasa in his eagerness got in the way-the first and +last time he ever made a mistake in the field. + +By this time the others had got hold of their weapons. We fronted the +blank face of the thicket. + +The wounded animal would stand a little waiting. We made a wide circle +to the other side of the stream. There we quickly picked up the trail of +the two uninjured beasts. They had headed directly over the hill, where +we speedily lost all trace of them on the flint-like surface of the +ground. We saw a big pack of baboons in the only likely direction for +a lion to go. Being thus thrown back on a choice of a hundred other +unlikely directions, we gave up that slim chance and returned to the +thicket. + +This proved to be a very dense piece of cover. Above the height of the +waist the interlocking branches would absolutely prevent any progress, +but by stooping low we could see dimly among the simpler main stems to +a distance of perhaps fifteen or twenty feet. This combination at once +afforded the wounded lioness plenty of cover in which to hide, plenty of +room in which to charge home, and placed us under the disadvantage of a +crouched or crawling attitude with limited vision. We talked the matter +over very thoroughly. There was only one way to get that lioness out; +and that was to go after her. The job of going after her needed some +planning. The lion is cunning and exceeding fierce. A flank attack, once +we were in the thicket, was as much to be expected as a frontal charge. + +We advanced to the thicket's edge with many precautions. To our relief +we found she had left us a definite trail. B. and I kneeling took up +positions on either side, our rifles ready. F. and Simba crawled by +inches eight or ten feet inside the thicket. Then, having executed this +manoeuvre safely, B. moved up to protect our rear while I, with Memba +Sasa, slid down to join F. + +From this point we moved forward alternately. I would crouch, all +alert, my rifle ready, while F. slipped by me and a few feet ahead. Then +he get organized for battle while I passed him. Memba Sasa and Simba, +game as badgers, their fine eyes gleaming with excitement, their +faces shining, crept along at the rear. B. knelt outside the thicket, +straining his eyes for the slightest movement either side of the line of +our advance. Often these wily animals will sneak back in a half circle +to attack their pursuers from behind. Two or three of the bolder porters +crouched alongside B., peering eagerly. The rest had quite properly +retired to the safe distance where the horses stood. + +We progressed very, very slowly. Every splash of light or mottled +shadow, every clump of bush stems, every fallen log had to be examined, +and then examined again. And how we did strain our eyes in a vain +attempt to penetrate the half lights, the duskinesses of the closed-in +thicket not over fifteen feet away! And then the movement forward of two +feet would bring into our field of vision an entirely new set of tiny +vistas and possible lurking places. + +Speaking for myself, I was keyed up to a tremendous tension. I stared +until my eyes ached; every muscle and nerve was taut. Everything +depended on seeing the beast promptly, and firing quickly. With the +manifest advantage of being able to see us, she would spring to battle +fully prepared. A yellow flash and a quick shot seemed about to size up +that situation. Every few moments, I remember, I surreptitiously +held out my hand to see if the constantly growing excitement and the +long-continued strain had affected its steadiness. + +The combination of heat and nervous strain was very exhausting. The +sweat poured from me; and as F. passed me I saw the great drops standing +out on his face. My tongue got dry, my breath came laboriously. Finally +I began to wonder whether physically I should be able to hold out. We +had been crawling, it seemed, for hours. I dared not look back, but we +must have come a good quarter mile. Finally F. stopped. + +“I'm all in for water,” he gasped in a whisper. + +Somehow that confession made me feel a lot better. I had thought that +I was the only one. Cautiously we settled back on our heels. Memba Sasa +and Simba wiped the sweat from their faces. It seemed that they too had +found the work severe. That cheered me up still more. + +Simba grinned at us, and, worming his way backward with the sinuousity +of a snake, he disappeared in the direction from which we had come. +F. cursed after him in a whisper both for departing and for taking the +risk. But in a moment he had returned carrying two canteens of blessed +water. We took a drink most gratefully. + +I glanced at my watch. It was just under two hours since I had fired +my shot. I looked back. My supposed quarter mile had shrunk to not over +fifty feet! + +After resting a few moments longer, we again took up our systematic +advance. We made perhaps another fifty feet. We were ascending a very +gentle slope. F. was for the moment ahead. Right before us the lion +growled; a deep rumbling like the end of a great thunder roll, fathoms +and fathoms deep, with the inner subterranean vibrations of a heavy +train of cars passing a man inside a sealed building. At the same moment +over F.'s shoulder I saw a huge yellow head rise up, the round eyes +flashing anger, the small black-tipped ears laid back, the great fangs +snarling. The beast was not over twelve feet distant. F. immediately +fired. His shot, hitting an intervening twig, went wild. With the utmost +coolness he immediately pulled the other trigger of his double barrel. +The cartridge snapped. + +“If you will kindly stoop down-” said I, in what I now remember to be +rather an exaggeratedly polite tone. As F.'s head disappeared, I placed +the little gold bead of my 405 Winchester where I thought it would do +the most good, and pulled trigger. She rolled over dead. + +The whole affair had begun and finished with unbelievable swiftness. +From the growl to the fatal shot I don't suppose four seconds elapsed, +for our various actions had followed one another with the speed of the +instinctive. The lioness had growled at our approach, had raised her +head to charge, and had received her deathblow before she had released +her muscles in the spring. There had been no time to get frightened. + +We sat back for a second. A brown hand reached over my shoulder. + +“Mizouri-mizouri sana!” cried Memba Sasa joyously. I shook the hand. + +“Good business!” said F. “Congratulate you on your first lion.” + +We then remembered B., and shouted to him that all was over. He and the +other men wriggled in to where we were lying. He made this distance in +about fifteen seconds. It had taken us nearly an hour. + +We had the lioness dragged out into the open. She was not an especially +large beast, as compared to most of the others I killed later, but at +that time she looked to me about as big as they made them. As a matter +of fact she was quite big enough, for she stood three feet two inches +at the shoulder-measure that against the wall-and was seven feet and +six inches in length. My first bullet had hit her leg, and the last had +reached her heart. + +Every one shook me by the hand. The gunbearers squatted about the +carcass, skilfully removing the skin to an undertone of curious crooning +that every few moments broke out into one or two bars of a chant. As the +body was uncovered, the men crouched about to cut off little pieces of +fat. These they rubbed on their foreheads and over their chests, to make +them brave, they said, and cunning, like the lion. + +We remounted and took up our interrupted journey to camp. It was +a little after two, and the heat was at its worst. We rode rather +sleepily, for the reaction from the high tension of excitement had set +in. Behind us marched the three gunbearers, all abreast, very military +and proud. Then came the porters in single file, the one carrying the +folded lion skin leading the way; those bearing the waterbuck trophy +and meat bringing up the rear. They kept up an undertone of humming in +a minor key; occasionally breaking into a short musical phrase in full +voice. + +We rode an hour. The camp looked very cool and inviting under its wide +high trees, with the river slipping by around the islands of papyrus. A +number of black heads bobbed about in the shallows. The small fires sent +up little wisps of smoke. Around them our boys sprawled, playing simple +games, mending, talking, roasting meat. Their tiny white tents gleamed +pleasantly among the cool shadows. + +I had thought of riding nonchalantly up to our own tents, of dismounting +with a careless word of greeting-- + +“Oh, yes,” I would say, “we did have a good enough day. Pretty hot. Roy +got a fine waterbuck. Yes, I got a lion.” (Tableau on part of Billy.) + +But Memba Sasa used up all the nonchalance there was. As we entered camp +he remarked casually to the nearest man. + +“Bwana na piga simba-the master has killed a lion.” + +The man leaped to his feet. + +“Simba! simba! simba!” he yelled. “Na piga simba!” + +Every one in camp also leaped to his feet, taking up the cry. From the +water it was echoed as the bathers scrambled ashore. The camp broke into +pandemonium. We were surrounded by a dense struggling mass of men. They +reached up scores of black hands to grasp my own; they seized from me +everything portable and bore it in triumph before me-my water bottle, +my rifle, my camera, my whip, my field glasses, even my hat, everything +that was detachable. Those on the outside danced and lifted up their +voices in song, improvised for the most part, and in honor of the day's +work. In a vast swirling, laughing, shouting, triumphant mob we swept +through the camp to where Billy-by now not very much surprised-was +waiting to get the official news. By the measure of this extravagant joy +could we gauge what the killing of a lion means to these people who have +always lived under the dread of his rule. + + + + + +X. LIONS + +A very large lion I killed stood three feet and nine inches at the +withers, and of course carried his head higher than that. The top of +the table at which I sit is only two feet three inches from the floor. +Coming through the door at my back that lion's head would stand over +a foot higher than halfway up. Look at your own writing desk; your own +door. Furthermore, he was nine feet and eleven inches in a straight line +from nose to end of tail, or over eleven feet along the contour of the +back. If he were to rise on his hind feet to strike a man down, he would +stand somewhere between seven and eight feet tall, depending on how +nearly he straightened up. He weighed just under six hundred pounds, or +as much as four well-grown specimens of our own “mountain lion.” I tell +you this that you may realize, as I did not, the size to which a wild +lion grows. Either menagerie specimens are stunted in growth, or their +position and surroundings tend to belittle them, for certainly until a +man sees old Leo in the wilderness he has not understood what a fine old +chap he is. + +This tremendous weight is sheer strength. A lion's carcass when the skin +is removed is a really beautiful sight. The great muscles lie in ropes +and bands; the forearm thicker than a man's leg, the lithe barrel banded +with brawn; the flanks overlaid by the long thick muscles. And this +power is instinct with the nervous force of a highly organized being. +The lion is quick and intelligent and purposeful; so that he brings to +his intenser activities the concentration of vivid passion, whether of +anger, of hunger or of desire. + +So far the opinions of varied experience will jog along together. At +this point they diverge. + +Just as the lion is one of the most interesting and fascinating of +beasts, so concerning him one may hear the most diverse opinions. This +man will tell you that any lion is always dangerous. Another will hold +the king of beasts in the most utter contempt as a coward and a skulker. + +In the first place, generalization about any species of animal is an +exceedingly dangerous thing. I believe that, in the case of the higher +animals at least, the differences in individual temperament are quite +likely to be more numerous than the specific likenesses. Just as +individual men are bright or dull, nervous or phlegmatic, cowardly or +brave, so individual animals vary in like respect. Our own hunters will +recall from their personal experiences how the big bear may have sat +down and bawled harmlessly for mercy, while the little unconsidered +fellow did his best until finished off: how one buck dropped instantly +to a wound that another would carry five miles: how of two equally +matched warriors of the herd one will give way in the fight, while +still uninjured, before his perhaps badly wounded antagonist. The casual +observer might-and often does-say that all bears are cowardly, all bucks +are easily killed, or the reverse, according as the god of chance has +treated him to one spectacle or the other. As well try to generalize +on the human race-as is a certain ecclesiastical habit-that all men are +vile or noble, dishonest or upright, wise or foolish. + +The higher we go in the scale the truer this individualism holds. We +are forced to reason not from the bulk of observations, but from their +averages. If we find ten bucks who will go a mile wounded to two who +succumb in their tracks from similar hurts, we are justified in saying +tentatively that the species is tenacious of life. But as experience +broadens we may modify that statement; for strange indeed are runs of +luck. + +For this reason a good deal of the wise conclusion we read in +sportsmen's narratives is worth very little. Few men have experience +enough with lions to rise to averages through the possibilities of luck. +ESPECIALLY is this true of lions. No beast that roams seems to go more +by luck than felis leo. Good hunters may search for years without seeing +hide nor hair of one of the beasts. Selous, one of the greatest, went to +East Africa for the express purpose of getting some of the fine beasts +there, hunted six weeks and saw none. Holmes of the Escarpment has lived +in the country six years, has hunted a great deal and has yet to kill +his first. One of the railroad officials has for years gone up and down +the Uganda Railway on his handcar, his rifle ready in hopes of the lion +that never appeared; though many are there seen by those with better +fortune. Bronson hunted desperately for this great prize, but failed. +Rainsford shot no lions his first trip, and ran into them only three +years later. Read Abel Chapman's description of his continued bad luck +at even seeing the beasts. MacMillan, after five years' unbroken good +fortune, has in the last two years failed to kill a lion, although he +has made many trips for the purpose. F. told me he followed every rumour +of a lion for two years before he got one. Again, one may hear the most +marvellous of yarns the other way about-of the German who shot one from +the train on the way up from Mombasa; of the young English tenderfoot +who, the first day out, came on three asleep, across a river, and potted +the lot; and so on. The point is, that in the case of lions the element +of sheer chance seems to begin earlier and last longer than is the case +with any other beast. And, you must remember, experience must thrust +through the luck element to the solid ground of averages before it can +have much value in the way of generalization. Before he has reached that +solid ground, a man's opinions depend entirely on what kind of lions +he chances to meet, in what circumstances, and on how matters happen to +shape in the crowded moments. + +But though lack of sufficiently extended experience has much to do with +these decided differences of opinion, I believe that misapprehension +has also its part. The sportsman sees lions on the plains. Likewise the +lions see him, and promptly depart to thick cover or rocky butte. He +comes on them in the scrub; they bound hastily out of sight. He may even +meet them face to face, but instead of attacking him, they turn to right +and left and make off in the long grass. When he follows them, they +sneak cunningly away. If, added to this, he has the good luck to kill +one or two stone dead at a single shot each, he begins to think there is +not much in lion shooting after all, and goes home proclaiming the king +of beasts a skulking coward. + +After all, on what grounds does he base this conclusion? In what way +have circumstances been a test of courage at all? The lion did not +stand and fight, to be sure; but why should he? What was there in it +for lions? Behind any action must a motive exist. Where is the possible +motive for any lion to attack on sight? He does not-except in unusual +cases-eat men; nothing has occurred to make him angry. The obvious thing +is to avoid trouble, unless there is a good reason to seek it. In that +one evidences the lion's good sense, but not his lack of courage. That +quality has not been called upon at all. + +But if the sportsman had done one of two or three things, I am quite +sure he would have had a taste of our friend's mettle. If he had shot at +and even grazed the beast; if he had happened upon him where an exit was +not obvious; or IF HE HAD EVEN FOLLOWED THE LION UNTIL THE LATTER HAD +BECOME TIRED OF THE ANNOYANCE, he would very soon have discovered that +Leo is not all good nature, and that once on his courage will take him +in against any odds. Furthermore, he may be astonished and dismayed +to discover that of a group of several lions, two or three besides the +wounded animal are quite likely to take up the quarrel and charge too. +In other words, in my opinion, the lion avoids trouble when he can, not +from cowardice but from essential indolence or good nature; but does not +need to be cornered* to fight to the death when in his mind his dignity +is sufficiently assailed. + + * This is an important distinction in estimating the inherent + courage of man or beast. Even a mouse will fight when + cornered. + +For of all dangerous beasts the lion, when once aroused, will alone face +odds to the end. The rhinoceros, the elephant, and even the buffalo can +often be turned aside by a shot. A lion almost always charges home.* +Slower and slower he comes, as the bullets strike; but he comes, until +at last he may be just hitching himself along, his face to the enemy, +his fierce spirit undaunted. When finally he rolls over, he bites the +earth in great mouthfuls; and so passes fighting to the last. The death +of a lion is a fine sight. + + * I seem to be generalizing here, but all these conclusions + must be understood to take into consideration the liability + of individual variation. + +No, I must confess, to me the lion is an object of great respect; and +so, I gather, he is to all who have had really extensive experience. +Those like Leslie Tarleton, Lord Delamere, W. N. MacMillan, Baron von +Bronsart, the Hills, Sir Alfred Pease, who are great lion men, all +concede to the lion a courage and tenacity unequalled by any other +living beast. My own experience is of course nothing as compared to that +of these men. Yet I saw in my nine months afield seventy-one lions. None +of these offered to attack when unwounded or not annoyed. On the other +hand, only one turned tail once the battle was on, and she proved to be +a three quarters grown lioness, sick and out of condition. + +It is of course indubitable that where lions have been much shot they +become warier in the matter of keeping out of trouble. They retire to +cover earlier in the morning, and they keep more than a perfunctory +outlook for the casual human being. When hunters first began to go into +the Sotik the lions there would stand imperturbable, staring at the +intruder with curiosity or indifference. Now they have learned that +such performances are not healthy-and they have probably satisfied +their curiosity. But neither in the Sotik, nor even in the plains around +Nairobi itself, does the lion refuse the challenge once it has been put +up to him squarely. Nor does he need to be cornered. He charges in quite +blithely from the open plain, once convinced that you are really an +annoyance. + +As to habits! The only sure thing about a lion is his originality. He +has more exceptions to his rules than the German language. Men who have +been mighty lion hunters for many years, and who have brought to their +hunting close observation, can only tell you what a lion MAY do in +certain circumstances. Following very broad principles, they may even +predict what he is APT to do, but never what he certainly WILL do. That +is one thing that makes lion hunting interesting. + +In general, then, the lion frequents that part of the country where feed +the great game herds. From them he takes his toll by night, retiring +during the day into the shallow ravines, the brush patches, or the rocky +little buttes. I have, however, seen lions miles from game, slumbering +peacefully atop an ant hill. Indeed, occasionally, a pack of lions likes +to live high in the tall-grass ridges where every hunt will mean for +them a four- or five-mile jaunt out and back again. He needs water, +after feeding, and so rarely gets farther than eight or ten miles from +that necessity. + +He hunts at night. This is as nearly invariable a rule as can be +formulated in regard to lions. Yet once, and perhaps twice, I saw +lionesses stalking through tall grass as early as three o'clock in +the afternoon. This eagerness may, or may not, have had to do with the +possession of hungry cubs. The lion's customary harmlessness in the +daytime is best evidenced, however, by the comparative indifference of +the game to his presence then. From a hill we watched three of these +beasts wandering leisurely across the plains below. A herd of kongonis +feeding directly in their path, merely moved aside right and left, quite +deliberately, to leave a passage fifty yards or so wide, but otherwise +paid not the slightest attention. I have several times seen this +incident, or a modification of it. And yet, conversely, on a number of +occasions we have received our first intimation of the presence of lions +by the wild stampeding of the game away from a certain spot. + +However, the most of his hunting is done by dark. Between the hours of +sundown and nine o'clock he and his comrades may be heard uttering the +deep coughing grunt typical of this time of night. These curious, short, +far-sounding calls may be mere evidences of intention, or they may be +a sort of signal by means of which the various hunters keep in touch. +After a little they cease. Then one is quite likely to hear the +petulant, alarmed barking of zebra, or to feel the vibrations of many +hoofs. There is a sense of hurried, flurried uneasiness abroad on the +veldt. + +The lion generally springs on his prey from behind or a little off the +quarter. By the impetus his own weight he hurls his victim forward, +doubling its head under, and very neatly breaking its neck. I have never +seen this done, but the process has been well observed and attested; and +certainly, of the many hundreds of lion kills I have taken the pains +to inspect, the majority had had their necks broken. Sometimes, but +apparently more rarely, the lion kills its prey by a bite in the back of +the neck. I have seen zebra killed in this fashion, but never any of the +buck. It may be possible that the lack of horns makes it more difficult +to break a zebra's neck because of the corresponding lack of leverage +when its head hits the ground sidewise; the instances I have noted may +have been those in which the lion's spring landed too far back to throw +the victim properly; or perhaps they were merely examples of the great +variability in the habits of felis leo. + +Once the kill is made, the lion disembowels the beast very neatly +indeed, and drags the entrails a few feet out of the way. He then eats +what he wants, and, curiously enough, seems often to be very fond of the +skin. In fact, lacking other evidence, it is occasionally possible +to identify a kill as being that of a lion by noticing whether any +considerable portion of the hide has been devoured. After eating he +drinks. Then he is likely to do one of two things: either he returns +to cover near the carcass and lies down, or he wanders slowly and with +satisfaction toward his happy home. In the latter case the hyenas, +jackals, and carrion birds seize their chance. The astute hunter can +often diagnose the case by the general actions and demeanour of these +camp followers. A half dozen sour and disgusted looking hyenas seated +on their haunches at scattered intervals, and treefuls of mournfully +humpbacked vultures sunk in sadness, indicate that the lion has decided +to save the rest of his zebra until to-morrow and is not far away. +On the other hand, a grand flapping, snarling Kilkenny-fair of an +aggregation swirling about one spot in the grass means that the +principal actor has gone home. + +It is ordinarily useless to expect to see the lion actually on his prey. +The feeding is done before dawn, after which the lion enjoys stretching +out in the open until the sun is well up, and then retiring to the +nearest available cover. Still, at the risk of seeming to be perpetually +qualifying, I must instance finding three lions actually on the stale +carcass of a waterbuck at eleven o'clock in the morning of a piping +hot day! In an undisturbed country, or one not much hunted, the early +morning hours up to say nine o'clock are quite likely to show you lions +sauntering leisurely across the open plains toward their lairs. They +go a little, stop a little, yawn, sit down a while, and gradually work +their way home. At those times you come upon them unexpectedly face to +face, or, seeing them from afar, ride them down in a glorious gallop. +Where the country has been much hunted, however, the lion learns to +abandon his kill and seek shelter before daylight, and is almost never +seen abroad. Then one must depend on happening upon him in his cover. + +In the actual hunting of his game the lion is apparently very clever. +He understands the value of cooperation. Two or more will manoeuvre +very skilfully to give a third the chance to make an effective spring; +whereupon the three will share the kill. In a rough country, or +one otherwise favourable to the method, a pack of lions will often +deliberately drive game into narrow ravines or cul de sacs where the +killers are waiting. + +At such times the man favoured by the chance of an encampment within +five miles or so can hear a lion's roar. + +Otherwise I doubt if he is apt often to get the full-voiced, genuine +article. The peculiar questioning cough of early evening is resonant and +deep in vibration, but it is a call rather than a roar. No lion is fool +enough to make a noise when he is stalking. Then afterward, when full +fed, individuals may open up a few times, but only a few times, in +sheer satisfaction, apparently, at being well fed. The menagerie row at +feeding time, formidable as it sounds within the echoing walls, is only +a mild and gentle hint. But when seven or eight lions roar merely to +see how much noise they can make, as when driving game, or trying to +stampede your oxen on a wagon trip, the effect is something tremendous. +The very substance of the ground vibrates; the air shakes. I can only +compare it to the effect of a very large deep organ in a very small +church. There is something genuinely awe-inspiring about it; and when +the repeated volleys rumble into silence, one can imagine the veldt +crouched in a rigid terror that shall endure. + + + + + +XI. LIONS AGAIN + +As to the dangers of lion hunting it is also difficult to write. There +is no question that a cool man, using good judgment as to just what +he can or cannot do, should be able to cope with lion situations. The +modern rifle is capable of stopping the beast, provided the bullet goes +to the right spot. The right spot is large enough to be easy to hit, if +the shooter keeps cool. Our definition of a cool man must comprise the +elements of steady nerves under super-excitement, the ability to think +quickly and clearly, and the mildly strategic quality of being able to +make the best use of awkward circumstances. Such a man, barring sheer +accidents, should be able to hunt lions with absolute certainty for +just as long as he does not get careless, slipshod or over-confident. +Accidents-real accidents, not merely unexpected happenings-are hardly to +be counted. They can occur in your own house. + +But to the man not temperamentally qualified, lion shooting is dangerous +enough. The lion, when he takes the offensive, intends to get his +antagonist. Having made up his mind to that, he charges home, generally +at great speed. The realization that it is the man's life or the beast's +is disconcerting. Also the charging lion is a spectacle much more +awe-inspiring in reality than the most vivid imagination can predict. +He looks very large, very determined, and has uttered certain rumbling, +blood-curdling threats as to what he is going to do about it. It +suddenly seems most undesirable to allow that lion to come any closer, +not even an inch! A hasty, nervous shot misses-- + +An unwounded lion charging from a distance is said to start rather +slowly, and to increase his pace only as he closes. Personally I have +never been charged by an unwounded beast, but I can testify that the +wounded animal comes very fast. Cuninghame puts the rate at about seven +seconds to the hundred yards. Certainly I should say that a man charged +from fifty yards or so would have little chance for a second shot, +provided he missed the first. A hit seemed, in my experience, to the +animal, by sheer force of impact, long enough to permit me to throw in +another cartridge. A lioness thus took four frontal bullets starting at +about sixty yards. An initial miss would probably have permitted her to +close. + +Here, as can be seen, is a great source of danger to a flurried or +nervous beginner. He does not want that lion to get an inch nearer; he +fires at too long a range, misses, and is killed or mauled before he can +reload. This happened precisely so to two young friends of MacMillan. +They were armed with double-rifles, let them off hastily as the beast +started at them from two hundred yards, and never got another chance. If +they had possessed the experience to have waited until the lion had +come within fifty yards they would have had the almost certainty of +four barrels at close range. Though I have seen a lion missed clean well +inside those limits. + +From such performances are so-called lion accidents built. During my +stay in Africa I heard of six white men being killed by lions, and a +number of others mauled. As far as possible I tried to determine the +facts of each case. In every instance the trouble followed either +foolishness or loss of nerve. I believe I should be quite safe in +saying that from identically the same circumstances any of the good lion +men-Tarleton, Lord Delamere, the Hills, and others-would have extricated +themselves unharmed. + +This does not mean that accidents may not happen. Rifles jam, but +generally because of flurried manipulation! One may unexpectedly meet +the lion at too close quarters; a foot may slip, or a cartridge prove +defective. So may one fall downstairs or bump one's head in the dark. +Sufficient forethought and alertness and readiness would go far in +either case to prevent bad results. + +The wounded beast, of course, offers the most interesting problem to the +lion hunter. If it sees the hunter, it is likely to charge him at once. +If hit while making off, however, it is more apt to take cover. Then one +must summon all his good sense and nerve to get it out. No rules can be +given for this; nor am I trying to write a text book for lion hunters. +Any good lion hunter knows a lot more about it than I do. But always +a man must keep in mind three things: that a lion can hide in cover so +short that it seems to the novice as though a jack-rabbit would find +scant concealment there; that he charges like lightning, and that he +can spring about fifteen feet. This spring, coming unexpectedly from an +unseen beast, is about impossible to avoid. Sheer luck may land a fatal +shot; but even then the lion will probably do his damage before he dies. +The rush from a short distance a good quick shot ought to be able to +cope with. + +Therefore the wise hunter assures himself of at least twenty +feet-preferably more-of neutral zone all about him. No matter how long +it takes, he determines absolutely that the lion is not within that +distance. The rest is alertness and quickness. + +As I have said, the amount of cover necessary to conceal a lion is +astonishingly small. He can flatten himself out surprisingly; and +his tawny colour blends so well with the brown grasses that he is +practically invisible. A practised man does not, of course, look for +lions at all. He is after unusual small patches, especially the black +ear tips or the black of the mane. Once guessed at, it is interesting to +see how quickly the hitherto unsuspected animal sketches itself out in +the cover. + +I should, before passing on to another aspect of the matter, mention the +dangerous poisons carried by the lion's claws. Often men have died +from the most trivial surface wounds. The grooves of the claws carry +putrefying meat from the kills. Every sensible man in a lion country +carries a small syringe, and either permanganate or carbolic. And those +mild little remedies he uses full strength! + +The great and overwhelming advantage is of course with the hunter. He +possesses as deadly a weapon: and that weapon will kill at a distance. +This is proper, I think. There are more lions than hunters; and, from +our point of view, the man is more important than the beast. The game is +not too hazardous. By that I mean that, barring sheer accident, a man is +sure to come out all right provided he does accurately the right thing. +In other words, it is a dangerous game of skill, but it does not possess +the blind danger of a forest in a hurricane, say. Furthermore, it is a +game that no man need play unless he wants to. In the lion country he +may go about his business-daytime business-as though he were home at the +farm. + +Such being the case, may I be pardoned for intruding one of my own small +ethical ideas at this point, with the full realization that it depends +upon an entirely personal point of view. As far as my own case goes, +I consider it poor sportsmanship ever to refuse a lion-chance merely +because the advantages are not all in my favour. After all, lion hunting +is on a different plane from ordinary shooting: it is a challenge to +war, a deliberate seeking for mortal combat. Is it not just a little +shameful to pot old felis leo at long range, in the open, near his kill, +and wherever we have him at an advantage-nine times, and then to back +out because that advantage is for once not so marked? I have so often +heard the phrase, “I let him (or them) alone. It was not good enough,” + meaning that the game looked a little risky. + +Do not misunderstand. I am not advising that you bull ahead into the +long grass, or that alone you open fire on a half dozen lions in easy +range. Kind providence endowed you with strategy, and certainly you +should never go in where there is no show for you to use your weapon +effectively. But occasionally the odds will be against you and you will +be called upon to take more or less of a chance. I do not think it is +quite square to quit playing merely because for once your opponent has +been dealt the better cards. If here are too many of them see if you +cannot manoeuvre them; if the grass is long, try every means in your +power to get them out. Stay with them. If finally you fail, you will +at least have the satisfaction of knowing that circumstances alone have +defeated you. If you do not like that sort of a game, stay out of it +entirely. + + + + + +XII. MORE LIONS + +Nor do the last remarks of the preceding chapter mean that you shall not +have your trophy in peace. Perhaps excitement and a slight doubt as +to whether or not you are going to survive do not appeal to you; but +nevertheless you would like a lion skin or so. By all means shoot one +lion, or two, or three in the safest fashion you can. But after that you +ought to play the game. + +The surest way to get a lion is to kill a zebra, cut holes in him, fill +the holes with strychnine, and come back next morning. This method is +absolutely safe. + +The next safest way is to follow the quarry with a pack of especially +trained dogs. The lion is so busy and nervous over those dogs that you +can walk up and shoot him in the ear. This method has the excitement of +riding and following, the joy of a grand and noisy row, and the fun of +seeing a good dog-fight. The same effect can be got chasing wart-hogs, +hyenas, jackals-or jack-rabbits. The objection is that it wastes a +noble beast in an inferior game. My personal opinion is that no man is +justified in following with dogs any large animal that can be captured +with reasonable certainty without them. The sport of coursing is another +matter; but that is quite the same in essence whatever the size of the +quarry. If you want to kill a lion or so quite safely, and at the same +time enjoy a glorious and exciting gallop with lots of accompanying row, +by all means follow the sport with hounds. But having killed one or two +by that method, quit. Do not go on and clean up the country. You can do +it. Poison and hounds are the SURE methods of finding any lion there may +be about; and AFTER THE FIRST FEW, one is about as justifiable as the +other. If you want the undoubtedly great joy of cross country pursuit, +send your hounds in after less noble game. + +The third safe method of killing a lion is nocturnal. You lay out a kill +beneath a tree, and climb the tree. Or better, you hitch out a pig or +donkey as live bait. When the lion comes to this free lunch, you try to +see him; and, if you succeed in that, you try to shoot him. It is not +easy to shoot at night; nor is it easy to see in the dark. Furthermore, +lions only occasionally bother to come to bait. You may roost up that +tree many nights before you get a chance. Once up, you have to stay up; +for it is most decidedly not safe to go home after dark. The tropical +night in the highlands is quite chilly. Branches seem to be quite as +cramping and abrasive under the equator as in the temperate zones. +Still, it is one method. + +Another is to lay out a kill and visit it in the early morning. There is +more to this, for you are afoot, must generally search out your beast +in nearby cover, and can easily find any amount of excitement in the +process. + +The fourth way is to ride the lion. The hunter sees his quarry returning +home across the plains, perhaps; or jumps it from some small bushy +ravine. At once he spurs his horse in pursuit. The lion will run but a +short distance before coming to a stop, for he is not particularly long +either of wind or of patience. From this stand he almost invariably +charges. The astute hunter, still mounted, turns and flees. When the +lion gets tired of chasing, which he does in a very short time, the +hunter faces about. At last the lion sits down in the grass, waiting for +the game to develop. This is the time for the hunter to dismount and to +take his shot. Quite likely he must now stand a charge afoot, and drop +his beast before it gets to him. + +This is real fun. It has many elements of safety, and many of danger. + +To begin with, the hunter at this game generally has companions to back +him: often he employs mounted Somalis to round the lion up and get it +to stand. The charging lion is quite apt to make for the conspicuous +mounted men-who can easily escape-ignoring the hunter afoot. As the game +is largely played in the open, the movements of the beast are easily +followed. + +On the other hand, there is room for mistake. The hunter, for example, +should never follow directly in the rear of his lion, but rather at a +parallel course off the beast's flank. Then, if the lion stops suddenly, +the man does not overrun before he can check his mount. He should never +dismount nearer than a hundred and fifty yards from the embayed +animal; and should never try to get off while the lion is moving in +his direction. Then, too, a hard gallop is not conducive to the best of +shooting. It is difficult to hold the front bead steady; and it is still +more difficult to remember to wait, once the lion charges, until he has +come near enough for a sure shot. A neglect in the inevitable excitement +of the moment to remember these and a dozen other small matters may +quite possibly cause trouble. + +Two or three men together can make this one of the most exciting mounted +games on earth; with enough of the give and take of real danger and +battle to make it worth while. The hunter, however, who employs a dozen +Somalis to ride the beast to a standstill, after which he goes to +the front, has eliminated much of the thrill. Nor need that man's +stay-at-home family feel any excessive uneasiness over Father Killing +Lions in Africa. + +The method that interested me more than any other is one exceedingly +difficult to follow except under favourable circumstances. I refer to +tracking them down afoot. This requires that your gunbearer should be +an expert trailer, for, outside the fact that following a soft-padded +animal over all sorts of ground is a very difficult thing to do, the +hunter should be free to spy ahead. It is necessary also to possess much +patience and to endure under many disappointments. But on the other +hand there is in this sport a continuous keen thrill to be enjoyed in no +other; and he who single handed tracks down and kills his lion thus, has +well earned the title of shikari-the Hunter. + +And the last method of all is to trust to the God of Chance. The secret +of success is to be always ready to take instant advantage of what the +moment offers. + +An occasional hunting story is good in itself: and the following will +also serve to illustrate what I have just been saying. + +We were after that prize, the greater kudu, and in his pursuit had +penetrated into some very rough country. Our hunting for the time being +was over broad bench, perhaps four or five miles wide, below a range +of mountains. The bench itself broke down in sheer cliffs some fifteen +hundred feet, but one did not appreciate that fact unless he stood +fairly on the edge of the precipice. To all intents and purposes we +were on a rolling grassy plain, with low hills and cliffs, and a most +beautiful little stream running down it beneath fine trees. + +Up to now our hunting had gained us little beside information: that kudu +had occasionally visited the region, that they had not been there for a +month, and that the direction of their departure had been obscure. So we +worked our way down the stream, trying out the possibilities. Of other +game there seemed to be a fair supply: impalla, hartebeeste, zebra, +eland, buffalo, wart-hog, sing-sing, and giraffe we had seen. I had +secured a wonderful eland and a very fine impalla, and we had had a +gorgeous close-quarters fight with a cheetah.* Now C. had gone out, a +three weeks' journey, carrying to medical attendance a porter injured in +the cheetah fracas. Billy and I were continuing the hunt alone. + + * This animal quite disproved the assertion that cheetahs + never assume the aggressive. He charged repeatedly. + +We had marched two hours, and were pitching camp under a single tree +near the edge of the bench. After seeing everything well under way, I +took the Springfield and crossed the stream, which here ran in a deep +canyon. My object was to see if I could get a sing-sing that had bounded +away at our approach. I did not bother to take a gunbearer, because I +did not expect to be gone five minutes. + +The canyon proved unexpectedly deep and rough, and the stream up to my +waist. When I had gained the top, I found grass growing patchily from +six inches to two feet high; and small, scrubby trees from four to ten +feet tall, spaced regularly, but very scattered. These little trees +hardly formed cover, but their aggregation at sufficient distance +limited the view. + +The sing-sing had evidently found his way over the edge of the bench. I +turned to go back to camp. A duiker-a small grass antelope-broke from a +little patch of the taller grass, rushed, head down headlong after their +fashion, suddenly changed his mind, and dashed back again. I stepped +forward to see why he had changed his mind-and ran into two lions! + +They were about thirty yards away, and sat there on their haunches, side +by side, staring at me with expressionless yellow eyes. I stared back. +The Springfield is a good little gun, and three times before I had been +forced to shoot lions with it, but my real “lion gun” with which I had +done best work was the 405 Winchester. The Springfield is too light +for such game. Also there were two lions, very close. Also I was quite +alone. + +As the game stood, it hardly looked like my move; so I held still and +waited. Presently one yawned, they looked at each other, turned quite +leisurely, and began to move away at a walk. + +This was a different matter. If I had fired while the two were facing +me, I should probably have had them both to deal with. But now that +their tails were turned toward me, I should very likely have to do with +only the one: at the crack of the rifle the other would run the way he +was headed. So I took a careful bead at the lioness and let drive. + +My aim was to cripple the pelvic bone, but, unfortunately, just as I +fired, the beast wriggled lithely sidewise to pass around a tuft of +grass, so that the bullet inflicted merely a slight flesh wound on +the rump. She whirled like a flash, and as she raised her head high to +locate me, I had time to wish that the Springfield hit a trifle harder +blow. Also I had time to throw another cartridge in the barrel. + +The moment she saw me she dropped her head and charged. She was +thoroughly angry and came very fast. I had just enough time to steady +the gold bead on her chest and to pull trigger. + +At the shot, to my great relief, she turned bottom up, and I saw her +tail for an instant above the grass-an almost sure indication of a bad +hit. She thrashed around, and made a tremendous hullabaloo of snarls and +growls. I backed out slowly, my rifle ready. It was no place for me, for +the grass was over knee high. + +Once at a safe distance I blazed a tree with my hunting knife and +departed for camp, well pleased to be out of it. At camp I ate lunch and +had a smoke; then with Memba Sasa and Mavrouki returned to the scene +of trouble. I had now the 405 Winchester, a light and handy weapon +delivering a tremendous blow. + +We found the place readily enough. My lioness had recovered from the +first shock and had gone. I was very glad I had gone first. + +The trail was not very plain, but it could be followed a foot or so at a +time, with many faults and casts back. I walked a yard to one side while +the men followed the spoor. Owing to the abundance of cover it was +very nervous work, for the beast might be almost anywhere, and would +certainly charge. We tried to keep a neutral zone around ourselves by +tossing stones ahead of and on both sides of our line of advance. My own +position was not bad, for I had the rifle ready in my hand, but the men +were in danger. Of course I was protecting them as well as I could, but +there was always a chance that the lioness might spring on them in such +a manner that I would be unable to use my weapon. Once I suggested that +as the work was dangerous, they could quit if they wanted to. + +“Hapana!” they both refused indignantly. + +We had proceeded thus for half a mile when to our relief, right ahead of +us, sounded the commanding, rumbling half-roar, half-growl of the lion +at bay. + +Instantly Memba Sasa and Mavrouki dropped back to me. We all peered +ahead. One of the boys made her out first, crouched under a bush +thirty-two yards away. Even as I raised the rifle she saw us and +charged. I caught her in the chest before she had come ten feet. The +heavy bullet stopped her dead. Then she recovered and started forward +slowly, very weak, but game to the last. Another shot finished her. + +The remarkable point of this incident was the action of the little +Springfield bullet. Evidently the very high velocity of this bullet +from its shock to the nervous system had delivered a paralyzing blow +sufficient to knock out the lioness for the time being. Its damage to +tissue, however, was slight. Inasmuch as the initial shock did not cause +immediate death, the lioness recovered sufficiently to be able, two +hours later, to take the offensive. This point is of the greatest +interest to the student of ballistics; but it is curious to even the +ordinary reader. + +That is a very typical example of finding lions by sheer chance. +Generally a man is out looking for the smallest kind of game when he +runs up against them. Now happened to follow an equally typical example +of tracking. + +The next day after the killing of the lioness Memba Sasa, Kongoni and I +dropped off the bench, and hunted greater kudu on a series of terraces +fifteen hundred feet below. All we found were two rhino, some sing-sing, +a heard of impalla, and a tremendous thirst. In the meantime, Mavrouki +had, under orders, scouted the foothills of the mountain range at the +back. He reported none but old tracks of kudu, but said he had seen +eight lions not far from our encounter of the day before. + +Therefore, as soon next morning as we could see plainly, we again +crossed the canyon and the waist-deep stream. I had with me all three of +the gun men, and in addition two of the most courageous porters to help +with the tracking and the looking. + +About eight o'clock we found the first fresh pad mark plainly outlined +in an isolated piece of soft earth. Immediately we began that most +fascinating of games-trailing over difficult ground. In this we could +all take part, for the tracks were some hours old, and the cover scanty. +Very rarely could we make out more than three successive marks. Then we +had to spy carefully for the slightest indication of direction. Kongoni +in especial was wonderful at this, and time and again picked up a broken +grass blade or the minutest inch-fraction of disturbed earth. We moved +slowly, in long hesitations and castings about, and in swift little +dashes forward of a few feet; and often we went astray on false scents, +only to return finally to the last certain spot. In this manner we +crossed the little plain with the scattered shrub trees and arrived at +the edge of the low bluff above the stream bottom. + +This bottom was well wooded along the immediate bank of the stream +itself, fringed with low thick brush, and in the open spaces grown to +the edges with high, green, coarse grass. + +As soon as we had managed to follow without fault to this grass, our +difficulties of trailing were at an end. The lions' heavy bodies +had made distinct paths through the tangle. These paths went forward +sinuously, sometimes separating one from the other, sometimes +intertwining, sometimes combining into one for a short distance. We +could not determine accurately the number of beasts that had made them. + +“They have gone to drink water,” said Memba Sasa. + +We slipped along the twisting paths, alert for indications; came to the +edge of the thicket, stooped through the fringe, and descended to the +stream under the tall trees. The soft earth at the water's edge was +covered with tracks, thickly overlaid one over the other. The boys felt +of the earth, examined, even smelled, and came to the conclusion that +the beasts must have watered about five o'clock. If so, they might be +ten miles away, or as many rods. + +We had difficulty in determining just where the party left this place, +until finally Kongoni caught sight of suspicious indications over the +way. The lions had crossed the stream. We did likewise, followed the +trail out of the thicket, into the grass, below the little cliffs +parallel to the stream, back into the thicket, across the river once +more, up the other side, in the thicket for a quarter mile, then out +into the grass on that side, and so on. They were evidently wandering, +rather idly, up the general course of the stream. Certainly, unlike most +cats, they did not mind getting their feet wet, for they crossed the +stream four times. + +At last the twining paths in the shoulder-high grass fanned out +separately. We counted. + +“You were right, Mavrouki,” said I, “there were eight.” + +At the end of each path was a beaten-down little space where evidently +the beasts had been lying down. With an exclamation the three gunbearers +darted forward to investigate. The lairs were still warm! Their +occupants had evidently made off only at our approach! + +Not five minutes later we were halted by a low warning growl right +ahead. We stopped. The boys squatted on their heels close to me, and we +consulted in whispers. + +Of course it would be sheer madness to attack eight lions in grass +so high we could not see five feet in front of us. That went without +saying. On the other hand, Mavrouki swore that he had yesterday seen no +small cubs with the band, and our examination of the tracks made in soft +earth seemed to bear him out. The chances were therefore that, unless +themselves attacked or too close pressed, the lions would not attack us. +By keeping just in their rear we might be able to urge them gently along +until they should enter more open cover. Then we could see. + +Therefore we gave the owner of that growl about five minutes to forget +it, and then advanced very cautiously. We soon found where the objector +had halted, and plainly read by the indications where he had stood for a +moment or so, and then moved on. We slipped along after. + +For five hours we hung at the heels of that band of lions, moving very +slowly, perfectly willing to halt whenever they told us to, and going +forward again only when we became convinced that they too had gone on. +Except for the first half hour, we were never more than twenty or thirty +yards from the nearest lion, and often much closer. Three or four +times I saw slowly gliding yellow bodies just ahead of me, but in the +circumstances it would have been sheer stark lunacy to have fired. +Probably six or eight times-I did not count-we were commanded to stop, +and we did stop. + +It was very exciting work, but the men never faltered. Of course I went +first, in case one of the beasts had the toothache or otherwise did +not play up to our calculations on good nature. One or the other of the +gunbearers was always just behind me. Only once was any comment made. +Kongoni looked very closely into my face. + +“There are very many lions,” he remarked doubtfully. + +“Very many lions,” I agreed, as though assenting to a mere statement of +fact. + +Although I am convinced there was no real danger, as long as we stuck to +our plan of campaign, nevertheless it was quite interesting to be for so +long a period so near these great brutes. They led us for a mile or so +along the course of the stream, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the +other. Several times they emerged into better cover, and even into the +open, but always ducked back into the thick again before we ourselves +had followed their trail to the clear. + +At noon we were halted by the usual growl just as we had reached the +edge of the river. So we sat down on the banks and had lunch. + +Finally our chance came. The trail led us, for the dozenth time, from +the high grass into the thicket along the river. We ducked our heads +to enter. Memba Sasa, next my shoulder, snapped his fingers violently. +Following the direction of the brown arm that shot over my shoulder, I +strained my eyes into the dimness of the thicket. At first I could see +nothing at all, but at length a slight motion drew my eye. Then I made +out the silhouette of a lion's head, facing us steadily. One of the +rear guard had again turned to halt us, but this time where he and his +surroundings could be seen. + +Luckily I always use a Sheard gold bead sight, and even in the dimness +of the tree-shaded thicket it showed up well. The beast was only forty +yards away, so I fired at his head. He rolled over without a sound. + +We took the usual great precautions in determining the genuineness of +his demise, then carried him into the open. Strangely enough the bullet +had gone so cleanly into his left eye that it had not even broken the +edge of the eyelid; so that when skinned he did not show a mark. He was +a very decent maned lion, three feet four inches at the shoulder, and +nine feet long as he lay. We found that he had indeed been the rear +guard, and that the rest, on the other side of the thicket, had made off +at the shot. So in spite of the APPARENT danger of the situation, our +calculations had worked out perfectly. Also we had enjoyed a half day's +sport of an intensity quite impossible to be extracted from any other +method of following the lion. + +In trying to guess how any particular lions may act, however, you will +find yourself often at fault. The lion is a very intelligent and crafty +beast, and addicted to tricks. If you follow a lion to a small hill, +it is well to go around that hill on the side opposite to that taken by +your quarry. You are quite likely to meet him for he is clever enough +thus to try to get in your rear. He will lie until you have actually +passed him before breaking off. He will circle ahead, then back to +confuse his trail. And when you catch sight of him in the distance, you +would never suspect that he knew of your presence at all. He saunters +slowly, apparently aimlessly, along pausing often, evidently too bored +to take any interest in life. You wait quite breathlessly for him to +pass behind cover. Then you are going to make a very rapid advance, and +catch his leisurely retreat. But the moment old Leo does pass behind the +cover, his appearance of idle stroller vanishes. In a dozen bounds he is +gone. + +That is what makes lion hunting delightful. There are some regions, +very near settlements, where it is perhaps justifiable to poison these +beasts. If you are a true sportsman you will confine your hound-hunting +to those districts. Elsewhere, as far as playing fair with a noble +beast is concerned, you may as well toss a coin to see which you shall +take-your pack or a strychnine bottle. + + + + + +XIII. ON THE MANAGING OF A SAFARI + +We made our way slowly down the river. As the elevation dropped, the +temperature rose. It was very hot indeed during the day, and in the +evening the air was tepid and caressing, and musical with the hum of +insects. We sat about quite comfortably in our pajamas, and took our +fifteen grains of quinine per week against the fever. + +The character of the jungle along the river changed imperceptibly, the +dhum palms crowding out the other trees; until, at our last camp, were +nothing but palms. The wind in them sounded variously like the patter +or the gathering onrush of rain. On either side the country remained +unchanged, however. The volcanic hills rolled away to the distant +ranges. Everywhere grew sparsely the low thornbrush, opening sometimes +into clear plains, closing sometimes into dense thickets. One morning +we awoke to find that many supposedly sober-minded trees had burst into +blossom fairly over night. They were red, and yellow and white that +before were green, a truly gorgeous sight. + +Then we turned sharp to the right and began to ascend a little tributary +brook coming down the wide flats from a cleft in the hills. This was +prettily named the Isiola, and, after the first mile or so, was not +big enough to afford the luxury of a jungle of its own. Its banks were +generally grassy and steep, its thickets few, and its little trees +isolated in parklike spaces. To either side of it, and almost at its +level, stretched plains, but plains grown with scattered brush and +shrubs so that at a mile or two one's vista was closed. But for all its +scant ten feet of width the Isiola stood upon its dignity as a stream. +We discovered that when we tried to cross. The men floundered waist-deep +on uncertain bottom; the syces received much unsympathetic comment +for their handling of the animals, and we had to get Billy over by a +melodramatic “bridge of life” with B., F., myself, and Memba Sasa in the +title roles. + +Then we pitched camp in the open on the other side, sent the horses back +from the stream until after dark, in fear of the deadly tsetse fly, and +prepared to enjoy a good exploration of the neighbourhood. Whereupon +M'ganga rose up to his gaunt and terrific height of authority, stretched +forth his bony arm at right angles, and uttered between eight and nine +thousand commands in a high dynamic monotone without a single pause for +breath. These, supplemented by about as many more, resulted in (a) a +bridge across the stream, and (b) a banda. + +A banda is a delightful African institution. It springs from nothing in +about two hours, but it takes twenty boys with a vitriolic M'ganga back +of them to bring it about. Some of them carry huge backloads of grass, +or papyrus, or cat-tail rushes, as the case may be; others lug in poles +of various lengths from where their comrades are cutting them by means +of their panga. A panga, parenthetically, is the safari man's substitute +for axe, shovel, pick, knife, sickle, lawn-mower, hammer, gatling +gun, world's library of classics, higher mathematics, grand opera, and +toothpicks. It looks rather like a machete with a very broad end and +a slight curved back. A good man can do extraordinary things with +it. Indeed, at this moment, two boys are with this apparently clumsy +implement delicately peeling some of the small thorn trees, from the +bared trunks of which they are stripping long bands of tough inner bark. + +With these three raw materials-poles, withes, and grass-M'ganga and +his men set to work. They planted their corner and end poles, they laid +their rafters, they completed their framework, binding all with the +tough withes; then deftly they thatched it with the grass. Almost before +we had settled our own affairs, M'ganga was standing before us smiling. +Gone now was his mien of high indignation and swirling energy. + +“Banda naquisha,” he informed us. + +And we moved in our table and our canvas chairs; hung up our water +bottles; Billy got out her fancy work. Nothing could be pleasanter +nor more appropriate to the climate than this wide low arbour, open at +either end to the breezes, thatched so thickly that the fierce sun could +nowhere strike through. + +The men had now settled down to a knowledge of what we were like; and +things were going smoothly. At first the African porter will try it on +to see just how easy you are likely to prove. If he makes up his mind +that you really are easy, then you are in for infinite petty annoyance, +and possibly open mutiny. Therefore, for a little while, it is necessary +to be extremely vigilant, to insist on minute performance in all +circumstances where later you might condone an omission. For the same +reason punishment must be more frequent and more severe at the outset. +It is all a matter of watching the temper of the men. If they are +cheerful and willing, you are not nearly as particular as you would +be were their spirit becoming sullen. Then the infraction is not so +important in itself as an excuse for the punishment. For when your men +get sulky, you watch vigilantly for the first and faintest EXCUSE to +inflict punishment. + +This game always seemed to me very fascinating, when played right. It is +often played wrong. People do not look far enough. Because they see +that punishment has a most salutary effect on morale, and is sometimes +efficacious in getting things done that otherwise would lag, they jump +to the conclusion that the only effective way to handle a safari is +by penalties. By this I do not at all mean that they act savagely, or +punish to brutal excess. Merely they hold rigidly to the letter of the +work and the day's discipline. Because it is sometimes necessary +to punish severely slight infractions when the men's tempers need +sweetening, they ALWAYS punish slight infractions severely. + +And in ordinary circumstances this method undoubtedly results in a very +efficient safari. Things are done smartly, on time, with a snap. The +day's march begins without delay; there is a minimum of straggling; on +arrival the tents are immediately got up and the wood and water fetched. +But in a tight place, men so handled by invariable rule are very apt +to sit down apathetically, and put the whole thing up to the white man. +When it comes time to help out they are not there. The contrast with a +well-disposed safari cannot be appreciated by one who has not seen both. + +The safari-man loves a master. He does not for a moment understand any +well-meant but misplaced efforts on your part to lighten his work below +the requirements of custom. Always he will beg you to ease up on him, +to accord him favour; and always he will despise you if you yield. The +relations of man to man, of man to work, are all long since established +by immemorial distauri-custom-and it is not for you or him to change +them lightly. If you know what he should or can do, and hold him rigidly +to it, he will respect and follow you. + +But in order to keep him up to the mark, it is not always advisable to +light into him with a whip, necessary as the whip often is. If he +is sullen, or inclined to make mischief, then that is the crying +requirement. But if he is merely careless, or a little slow, or tired, +you can handle him in other ways. Ridicule before his comrades is very +effective: a sort of good-natured guying, I mean. “Ah! very tired!” + uttered in the right tone of voice has brought many a loiterer to his +feet as effectively as the kick some men feel must always be bestowed, +and quite without anger, mind you! For days at a time we have kept our +men travelling at good speed by commenting, as though by the way, after +we had arrived in camp, on which tribe happened to come in at the head. + +“Ah! Kavirondos came in first to-night,” we would remark. “Last night +the Monumwezis were ahead.” + +And once, actually, by this method we succeeded in working up such a +feeling of rivalry that the Kikuyus, the unambitious, weak and despised +Kikuyus, led the van! + +But the first hint of insubordination, of intended insolence, of willful +shirking must be met by instant authority. Occasionally, when the +situation is of the quick and sharp variety, the white man may have to +mix in the row himself. He must never hesitate an instant; for the only +reason he alone can control so many is that he has always controlled +them. F. had a very effective blow, or shove, which I found well worth +adopting. It is delivered with the heel of the palm to the man's chin, +and is more of a lifting, heaving shove than an actual blow. Its effect +is immediately upsetting. Impertinence is best dealt with in this manner +on the spot. Evidently intended slowness in coming when called is also +best treated by a flick of the whip-and forgetfulness. And so with a +half dozen others. But any more serious matter should be decided from +the throne of the canvas chair, witness should be heard, judgment +formally pronounced, and execution intrusted to the askaris or +gunbearers. + +It is, as I have said, a most interesting game. It demands three sorts +of knowledge: first what a safari man is capable of doing; second, what +he customarily should or should not do; third, an ability to read the +actual intention or motive back of his actions. When you are able to +punish or hold your hand on these principles, and not merely because +things have or have not gone smoothly or right, then you are a good +safari manager. There are mighty few of them. + +As for punishment, that is quite simply the whip. The average writer +on the country speaks of this with hushed voice and averted face as a +necessity but as something to be deprecated and passed over as quickly +as possible. He does this because he thinks he ought to. As a matter of +fact, such an attitude is all poppycock. In the flogging of a white man, +or a black who suffers from such a punishment in his soul as well as his +body, this is all very well. But the safari man expects it, it +doesn't hurt his feelings in the least, it is ancient custom. As well +sentimentalize over necessary schoolboy punishment, or over father +paddy-whacking little Willie when little Willie has been a bad boy. The +chances are your porter will leap to his feet, crack his heels together +and depart with a whoop of joy, grinning from ear to ear. Or he may draw +himself up and salute you, military fashion, again with a grin. In any +case his “soul” is not “scared” a little bit, and there is no sense in +yourself feeling about it as though it were. + +At another slant the justice you will dispense to your men differs from +our own. Again this is because of the teaching long tradition has made +part of their mental make-up. Our own belief is that it is better to let +two guilty men go than to punish one innocent. With natives it is the +other way about. If a crime is committed the guilty MUST be punished. +Preferably he alone is to be dealt with; but in case it is impossible to +identify him, then all the members of the first inclusive unit must be +brought to account. This is the native way of doing things; is the only +way the native understands; and is the only way that in his mind true +justice is answered. Thus if a sheep is stolen, the thief must be caught +and punished. Suppose, however it is known to what family the thief +belongs, but the family refuses to disclose which of its members +committed the theft: then each member must be punished for sheep +stealing; or, if not the family, then the tribe must make restitution. +But punishment MUST be inflicted. + +There is an essential justice to recommend this, outside the fact that +it has with the native all the solidity of accepted ethics, and +it certainly helps to run the real criminal to earth. The innocent +sometimes suffers innocently, but not very often; and our own records +show that in that respect with us it is the same. This is not the place +to argue the right or wrong of the matter from our own standpoint but to +recognize the fact that it is right from theirs, and to act accordingly. +Thus in cast of theft of meat, or something that cannot be traced, it +is well to call up the witnesses, to prove the alibis, and then to place +the issue squarely up to those that remain. There may be but two, or +there may be a dozen. + +“I know you did not all steal the meat,” you must say, “but I know that +one of you did. Unless I know which one that is by to-morrow morning, I +will kiboko all of you. Bass!” + +Perhaps occasionally you may have to kiboko the lot, in the full +knowledge that most are innocent. That seems hard; and your heart will +misgive you. Harden it. The “innocent” probably know perfectly well who +the guilty man is. And the incident builds for the future. + +I had intended nowhere to comment on the politics or policies of the +country. Nothing is more silly than the casual visitor's snap judgments +on how a country is run. Nevertheless, I may perhaps be pardoned for +suggesting that the Government would strengthen its hand, and aid its +few straggling settlers by adopting this native view of retributions. +For instance, at present it is absolutely impossible to identify +individual sheep and cattle stealers. They operate stealthily and at +night. If the Government cannot identify the actual thief, it gives the +matter up. As a consequence a great hardship is inflicted on the settler +and an evil increases. If, however, the Government would hold the +village, the district, or the tribe responsible, and exact just +compensation from such units in every case, the evil would very suddenly +come to an end. And the native's respect for the white man would climb +in the scale. + +Once the safari man gets confidence in his master, that confidence is +complete. The white man's duties are in his mind clearly defined. His +job is to see that the black man is fed, is watered, is taken care of +in every way. The ordinary porter considers himself quite devoid of +responsibility. He is also an improvident creature, for he drinks all +his water when he gets thirsty, no matter how long and hot the journey +before him; he eats his rations all up when he happens to get hungry, +two days before next distribution time; he straggles outrageously at +times and has to be rounded up; he works three months and, on a whim, +deserts two days before the end of his journey, thus forfeiting all his +wages. Once two porters came to us for money. + +“What for?” asked C. + +“To buy a sheep,” said they. + +For two months we had been shooting them all the game meat they could +eat, but on this occasion two days had intervened since the last kill. +If they had been on trading safari they would have had no meat at all. +A sheep cost six rupees in that country, and they were getting but ten +rupees a month as wages. In view of the circumstances, and for their +own good, we refused. Another man once insisted on purchasing a cake +of violet-scented soap for a rupee. Their chief idea of a wild time in +Nairobi, after return from a long safari, is to SIT IN A CHAIR and drink +tea. For this they pay exorbitantly at the Somali so-called “hotels.” + It is a strange sight. But then, I have seen cowboys off the range or +lumberjacks from the river do equally extravagant and foolish things. + +On the other hand they carry their loads well, they march tremendously, +they know their camp duties and they do them. Under adverse +circumstances they are good-natured. I remember C. and I, being belated +and lost in a driving rain. We wandered until nearly midnight. The four +or five men with us were loaded heavily with the meat and trophy of a +roan. Certainly they must have been very tired; for only occasionally +could we permit them to lay down their loads. Most of the time we were +actually groping, over boulders, volcanic rocks, fallen trees and all +sorts of tribulation. The men took it as a huge joke, and at every pause +laughed consumedly. + +In making up a safari one tries to mix in four or five tribes. This +prevents concerted action in case of trouble, for no one tribe will help +another. They vary both in tribal and individual characteristics, of +course. For example, the Kikuyus are docile but mediocre porters; the +Kavirondos strong carriers but turbulent and difficult to handle. You +are very lucky if you happen on a camp jester, one of the sort that +sings, shouts, or jokes while on the march. He is probably not much as a +porter, but he is worth his wages nevertheless. He may or may not aspire +to his giddy eminence. We had one droll-faced little Kavirondo whose +very expression made one laugh, and whose rueful remarks on the +harshness of his lot finally ended by being funny. His name got to be a +catchword in camp. + +“Mualo! Mualo!” the men would cry, as they heaved their burdens to their +heads; and all day long their war cry would ring out, “Mualo!” followed +by shrieks of laughter. + +Of the other type was Sulimani, a big, one-eyed Monumwezi, who had a +really keen wit coupled with an earnest, solemn manner. This man was no +buffoon, however; and he was a good porter, always at or near the head +of the procession. In the great jungle south of Kenia we came upon +Cuninghame. When the head of our safari reached the spot Sulimani +left the ranks and, his load still aloft danced solemnly in front of +Cuninghame, chanting something in a loud tone of voice. Then with a +final deep “Jambo!” to his old master he rejoined the safari. When +the day had stretched to weariness and the men had fallen to a sullen +plodding, Sulimani's vigorous song could always set the safari sticks +tapping the sides of the chop boxes. + +He carried part of the tent, and the next best men were entrusted with +the cook outfit and our personal effects. It was a point of honour +with these men to be the first in camp. The rear, the very extreme +and straggling rear, was brought up by worthless porters with loads of +cornmeal-and the weary askaris whose duty it was to keep astern and herd +the lot in. + + + + + +XIV. A DAY ON THE ISIOLA + +Early one morning-we were still on the Isiola-we set forth on our horses +to ride across the rolling, brush-grown plain. Our intention was to +proceed at right angles to our own little stream until we had reached +the forest growth of another, which we could dimly make out eight or +ten miles distant. Billy went with us, so there were four a-horseback. +Behind us trudged the gunbearers, and the syces, and after them +straggled a dozen or fifteen porters. + +The sun was just up, and the air was only tepid as yet. From patches of +high grass whirred and rocketed grouse of two sorts. They were so much +like our own ruffed grouse and prairie chicken that I could with no +effort imagine myself once more a boy in the coverts of the Middle West. +Only before us we could see the stripes of trotting zebra disappearing; +and catch the glint of light on the bayonets of the oryx. Two giraffes +galumphed away to the right. Little grass antelope darted from clump +to clump of grass. Once we saw gerenuk-oh, far away in an impossible +distance. Of course we tried to stalk them; and as usual we failed. The +gerenuk we had come to look upon as our Lesser Hoodoo. + +The beast is a gazelle about as big as a black-tailed deer. His +peculiarity is his excessively long neck, a good deal on the giraffe +order. With it he crops browse above high tide mark of other animals, +especially when as often happens he balances cleverly on his hind legs. +By means of it also he can, with his body completely concealed, look +over the top of ordinary cover and see you long before you have made +out his inconspicuous little head. Then he departs. He seems to have +a lamentable lack of healthy curiosity about you. In that respect he +should take lessons from the kongoni. After that you can follow him as +far as you please; you will get only glimpses at three or four hundred +yards. + +We remounted sadly and rode on. The surface of the ground was rather +soft, scattered with round rocks the size of a man's head, and full of +pig holes. + +“Cheerful country to ride over at speed,” remarked Billy. Later in the +day we had occasion to remember that statement. + +The plains led us ever on. First would be a band of scattered brush +growing singly and in small clumps: then a little open prairie; then +a narrow, long grass swale; then perhaps a low, long hill with small +single trees and rough, volcanic footing. Ten thousand things kept us +interested. Game was everywhere, feeding singly, in groups, in herds, +game of all sizes and descriptions. The rounded ears of jackals pointed +at us from the grass. Hundreds of birds balanced or fluttered about us, +birds of all sizes from the big ground hornbill to the littlest hummers +and sun birds. Overhead, across the wonderful variegated sky of Africa +the broad-winged carrion hunters and birds of prey wheeled. In all our +stay on the Isiola we had not seen a single rhino track, so we rode +quite care free and happy. + +Finally, across a glade, not over a hundred and fifty yards away, we +saw a solitary bull oryx standing under a bush. B. wanted an oryx. We +discussed this one idly. He looked to be a decent oryx, but nothing +especial. However, he offered a very good shot; so B., after some +hesitation, decided to take it. It proved to be by far the best specimen +we shot, the horns measuring thirty-six and three fourths inches! Almost +immediately after, two of the rather rare striped hyenas leaped from the +grass and departed rapidly over the top of a hill. We opened fire, and +F. dropped one of them. By the time these trophies were prepared, the +sun had mounted high in the heavens, and it was getting hot. + +Accordingly we abandoned that still distant river and swung away in a +wide circle to return to camp. + +Several minor adventures brought us to high noon and the heat of the +day. B. had succeeded in drawing a prize, one of the Grevy's or mountain +zebra. He and the gunbearers engaged themselves with that, while we sat +under the rather scanty shade of a small thorn tree and had lunch. +Here we had a favourable chance to observe that very common, but always +wonderful phenomenon, the gathering of the carrion birds. Within five +minutes after the stoop of the first vulture above the carcass, the sky +immediately over that one spot was fairly darkened with them. They were +as thick as midges-or as ducks used to be in California. All sizes were +there from the little carrion crows to the great dignified vultures and +marabouts and eagles. The small fry flopped and scolded, and rose and +fell in a dense mass; the marabouts walked with dignified pace to and +fro through the grass all about. As far as the eye could penetrate the +blue, it could make out more and yet more of the great soarers stooping +with half bent wings. Below we could see uncertainly through the shimmer +of the mirage the bent forms of the men. + +We ate and waited; and after a little we dozed. I was awakened suddenly +by a tremendous rushing roar, like the sound of a not too distant +waterfall. The group of men were plodding toward us carrying burdens. +And like plummets the birds were dropping straight down from the +heavens, spreading wide their wings at the last moment to check their +speed. This made the roaring sound that had awakened me. + +A wide spot in the shimmer showed black and struggling against the +ground. I arose and walked over, meeting halfway B. and the men carrying +the meat. It took me probably about two minutes to reach the place where +the zebra had been killed. Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of the great +birds were standing idly about; a dozen or so were flapping and +scrambling in the centre. I stepped into view. With a mighty commotion +they all took wing clumsily, awkwardly, reluctantly. A trampled, bloody +space and the larger bones, picked absolutely clean, was all that +remained! In less than two minutes the job had been done! + +“You're certainly good workmen!” I exclaimed, “but I wonder how you all +make a living!” + +We started the men on to camp with the meat, and ourselves rested +under the shade. The day had been a full and interesting one; but we +considered it as finished. Remained only the hot journey back to camp. + +After a half hour we mounted again and rode on slowly. The sun was very +strong and a heavy shimmer clothed the plain. Through this shimmer we +caught sight of something large and black and flapping. It looked like a +crow-or, better, a scare-crow-crippled, half flying, half running, with +waving wings or arms, now dwindling, now gigantic as the mirage caught +it up or let it drop. As we watched, it developed, and we made it out +to be a porter, clad in a long, ragged black overcoat, running zigzag +through the bushes in our direction. + +The moment we identified it we spurred our horses forward. As my horse +leaped, Memba Sasa snatched the Springfield from my left hand and forced +the 405 Winchester upon me. Clever Memba Sasa! He no more than we knew +what was up, but shrewdly concluded that whatever it was it needed a +heavy gun. + +As we galloped to meet him, the porter stopped. We saw him to be a very +long-legged, raggedy youth whom we had nicknamed the Marabout because of +his exceedingly long, lean legs, the fact that his breeches were white, +short and baggy, and because he kept his entire head shaved close. He +called himself Fundi, which means The Expert, a sufficient indication of +his confidence in himself. + +He awaited us leaning on his safari stick, panting heavily, the sweat +running off his face in splashes. “Simba!”* said he, and immediately +set off on a long, easy lope ahead of us. We pulled down to a trot and +followed him. + + * Lion + +At the end of a half mile we made out a man up a tree. Fundi, out of +breath, stopped short and pointed to this man. The latter, as soon as he +had seen us, commenced to scramble down. We spurred forward to find out +where the lions had been last seen. + +Then Billy covered herself with glory by seeing them first. She apprised +us of that fact with some excitement. We saw the long, yellow bodies of +two of them disappearing in the edge of the brush about three hundred +yards away. With a wild whoop we tore after them at a dead run. + +Then began a wild ride. Do you remember Billy's remark about the nature +of the footing? Before long we closed in near enough to catch occasional +glimpses of the beasts, bounding easily along. At that moment B.'s horse +went down in a heap. None of us thought for a moment of pulling up. I +looked back to see B. getting up again, and thought I caught fragments +of encouraging-sounding language. Then my horse went down. I managed to +hold my rifle clear, and to cling to the reins. Did you ever try to +get on a somewhat demoralized horse in a frantic hurry, when all your +friends were getting farther away every minute, and so lessening your +chances of being in the fun? I began to understand perfectly B.'s +remarks of a moment before. However, on I scrambled, and soon overtook +the hunt. + +We dodged in and out of bushes, and around and over holes. Every few +moments we would catch a glimpse of one of those silently bounding +lions, and then we would let out a yell. Also every few moments one +or the other of us would go down in a heap, and would scramble up and +curse, and remount hastily. Billy had better luck. She had no gun, and +belonged a little in the rear anyway, but was coming along game as a +badger for all that. + +My own horse had the legs of the others quite easily, and for that +reason I was ahead far enough to see the magnificent sight of five lions +sideways on, all in a row, standing in the grass gazing at me with a +sort of calm and impersonal dignity. I wheeled my horse immediately so +as to be ready in case of a charge, and yelled to the others to hurry +up. While I sat there, they moved slowly off one after the other, so +that by the time the men had come, the lions had gone. We now had +no difficulty in running into them again. Once more my better animal +brought me to the lead, so that for the second time I drew up facing the +lions, and at about one hundred yards range. One by one they began to +leave as before, very leisurely and haughtily, until a single old maned +fellow remained. He, however, sat there, his great round head peering +over the top of the grass. + +“Well,” he seemed to say, “here I am, what do you intend to do about +it?” + +The others arrived, and we all dismounted. B. had not yet killed his +lion, so the shot was his. Billy very coolly came up behind and held +his horse. I should like here to remark that Billy is very terrified of +spiders. F. and I stood at the ready, and B. sat down. + +Riding fast an exciting mile or so, getting chucked on your head two or +three times, and facing your first lion are none of them conducive to +steady shooting. The first shot therefore went high, but the second hit +the lion square in the chest, and he rolled over dead. + +We all danced a little war dance, and congratulated B. and turned to get +the meaning of a queer little gurgling gasp behind us. There was Fundi! +That long-legged scarecrow, not content with running to get us and then +back again, had trailed us the whole distance of our mad chase over +broken ground at terrific speed in order to be in at the death. And he +was just about all in at the death. He could barely gasp his breath, his +eyes stuck out; he looked close to apoplexy. + +“Bwana! bwana!” was all he could say. “Master! master!” + +We shook hands with Fundi. + +“My son,” said I, “you're a true sport, and you'll surely get yours +later.” + +He did not understand me, but he grinned. The gunbearers began to drift +in, also completely pumped. They set up a feeble shout when they saw +the dead lion. It was a good maned beast, three feet six inches at the +shoulder, and nine feet long. + +We left Fundi with the lion, instructing him to stay there until some +of the other men came up. We remounted and pushed on slowly in hopes of +coming on one of the others. + +Here and there we rode, our courses interweaving, looking eagerly. And +lo! through a tiny opening in the brush we espied one of those elusive +gerenuk standing not over one hundred yards away. Whereupon I dismounted +and did some of the worst shooting I perpetrated in Africa, for I let +loose three times at him before I landed. But land I did, and there was +one Lesser Hoodoo broken. Truly this was our day. + +We measured him and started to prepare the trophy, when to us came +Mavrouki and a porter, quite out of breath, but able to tell us that +they had been scouting around and had seen two of the lions. Then, +instead of leaving one up a tree to watch, both had come pell-mell to +tell us all about it. We pointed this out to them, and called their +attention to the fact that the brush was wide, that lions are not +stationary objects, and that, unlike the leopard, they can change their +spots quite readily. However, we remounted and went to take a look. + +Of course there was nothing. So we rode on, rather aimlessly, weaving +in and out of the bushes and open spaces. I think we were all a little +tired from the long day and the excitement, and hence a bit listless. +Suddenly we were fairly shaken out of our saddles by an angry roar just +ahead. Usually a lion growls, low and thunderous, when he wants, to +warn you that you have gone about far enough; but this one was angry all +through at being followed about so much, and he just plain yelled at us. + +He crouched near a bush forty yards away, and was switching his tail. I +had heard that this was a sure premonition of an instant charge, but I +had not before realized exactly what “switching the tail” meant. I had +thought of it as a slow sweeping from side to side, after the manner +of the domestic cat. This lion's tail was whirling perpendicularly from +right to left, and from left to right with the speed and energy of a +flail actuated by a particularly instantaneous kind of machinery. I +could see only the outline of the head and this vigorous tail; but I +took instant aim and let drive. The whole affair sank out of sight. + +We made a detour around the dead lion without stopping to examine him, +shouting to one of the men to stay and watch the carcass. Billy alone +seemed uninfected with the now prevalent idea that we were likely to +find lions almost anywhere. Her skepticism was justified. We found no +more lions; but another miracle took place for all that. We ran across +the second imbecile gerenuk, and B. collected it! These two were +the only ones we ever got within decent shot of, and they sandwiched +themselves neatly with lions. Truly, it WAS our day. + +After a time we gave it up, and went back to measure and photograph our +latest prize. It proved to be a male, maneless, two inches shorter than +that killed by B., and three feet five and one half inches tall at the +shoulder. My bullet had reached the brain just over the left eye. + +Now, toward sunset, we headed definitely toward camp. The long shadows +and beautiful lights of evening were falling across the hills far the +other side the Isiola. A little breeze with a touch of coolness breathed +down from distant unseen Kenia. We plodded on through the grass quite +happily, noting the different animals coming out to the cool of the +evening. The line of brush that marked the course of the Isiola came +imperceptibly nearer until we could make out the white gleam of the +porters' tents and wisps of smoke curling upward. + +Then a small black mass disengaged itself from the camp and came slowly +across the prairie in our direction. As it approached we made it out +to be our Monumwezis, twenty strong. The news of the lions had reached +them, and they were coming to meet us. They were huddled in a close +knot, their heads inclined toward the centre. Each man carried upright +a peeled white wand. They moved in absolute unison and rhythm, on a +slanting zigzag in our direction: first three steps to the right, then +three to the left, with a strong stamp of the foot between. Their bodies +swayed together. Sulimani led them, dancing backward, his wand upheld. + +“Sheeka!” he enunciated in a piercing half whistle. + +And the swaying men responded in chorus, half hushed, rumbling, with +strong aspiration. + +“Goom zoop! goom zoop!” + +When fifty yards from us, however, the formation broke and they rushed +us with a yell. Our horses plunged in astonishment, and we had hard work +to prevent their bolting, small blame to 'em! The men surrounded us, +shaking our hands frantically. At once they appropriated everything we +or our gunbearers carried. One who got left otherwise insisted on having +Billy's parasol. Then we all broke for camp at full speed, yelling like +fiends, firing our revolvers in the air. It was a grand entry, and a +grand reception. The rest of the camp poured out with wild shouts. The +dark forms thronged about us, teeth flashing, arms waving. And in the +background, under the shadows of the trees were the Monumwezis, their +formation regained, close gathered, heads bent, two steps swaying to +the right-stamp! two steps swaying to the left-stamp!-the white wands +gleaming, and the rumble of their lion song rolling in an undertone: + +“Goom zoop! goom zoop!” + + + + + +XV. THE LION DANCE + +We took our hot baths and sat down to supper most gratefully, for we +were tired. The long string of men, bearing each a log of wood, filed in +from the darkness to add to our pile of fuel. Saa-sita and Shamba knelt +and built the night fire. In a moment the little flame licked up through +the carefully arranged structure. We finished the meal, and the boys +whisked away the table. + +Then out in the blackness beyond our little globe of light we became +aware of a dull confusion, a rustling to and fro. Through the shadows +the eye could guess at movement. The confusion steadied to a kind of +rhythm, and into the circle of the fire came the group of Monumwezis. +Again they were gathered together in a compact little mass; but now they +were bent nearly double, and were stripped to the red blankets about +their waists. Before them writhed Sulimani, close to earth, darting +irregularly now to right, now to left, wriggling, spreading his arms +abroad. He was repeating over and over two phrases; or rather the same +phrase in two such different intonations that they seemed to convey +quite separate meanings. + +“Ka soompeele?” he cried with a strongly appealing interrogation. + +“Ka soompeele!” he repeated with the downward inflection of decided +affirmation. + +And the bent men, their dark bodies gleaming in the firelight, stamping +in rhythm every third step, chorused in a deep rumbling bass: + +“Goom zoop! goom zoop!” + +Thus they advanced; circled between us and the fire, and withdrew to the +half darkness, where tirelessly they continued the same reiterations. + +Hardly had they withdrawn when another group danced forward in their +places. These were the Kikuyus. They had discarded completely their +safari clothes, and now came forth dressed out in skins, in strips of +white cloth, with feathers, shells and various ornaments. They carried +white wands to represent spears, and they sang their tribal lion song. +A soloist delivered the main argument in a high wavering minor and was +followed by a deep rumbling emphatic chorus of repetition, strongly +accented so that the sheer rhythm of it was most pronounced: + +“An-gee a Ka ga An-gee a Ka ga An-gee a Ka ga Ki ya Ka ga Ka ga an gee +ya!” + +Solemnly and loftily, their eyes fixed straight before them they made +the circle of the fire, passed before our chairs, and withdrew to the +half light. There, a few paces from the stamping, crouching Monumwezis, +they continued their performance. + +The next to appear were the Wakambas. These were more histrionic. They +too were unrecognizable as our porters, for they too had for the lion +discarded their work-a-day garments in favour of savage. They produced a +pantomime of the day's doings, very realistic indeed, ending with a half +dozen of dark swaying bodies swinging and shuddering in the long grass +as lions, while the “horses” wove in and out among the crouching forms, +all done to the beat of rhythm. Past us swept the hunt, and in its turn +melted into the half light. + +The Kavirondos next appeared, the most fantastically caparisoned of the +lot, fine big black men, their eyes rolling with excitement. They had +captured our flag from its place before the big tent, and were rallied +close about this, dancing fantastically. Before us they leaped and +stamped and shook their spears and shouted out their full-voiced song, +while the other three tribes danced each its specialty dimly in the +background. + +The dance thus begun lasted for fully two hours. Each tribe took a +turn before us, only to give way to the next. We had leisure to notice +minutiae, such as the ingenious tail one of the “lions” had constructed +from a sweater. As time went on, the men worked themselves to a frenzy. +From the serried ranks every once in a while one would break forth with +a shriek to rush headlong into the fire, to beat the earth about him +with his club, to rush over to shake one of us violently by the hand, +or even to seize one of our feet between his two palms. Then with equal +abruptness back he darted to regain his place among the dancers. Wilder +and wilder became the movements, higher rose the voices. The mock lion +hunt grew more realistic, and the slaughter on both sides something +tremendous. Lower and lower crouched the Monumwezi, drawing apart with +their deep “goom”; drawing suddenly to a common centre with the sharp +“zoop!” Only the Kikuyus held their lofty bearing as they rolled forth +their chant, but the mounting excitement showed in their tense muscles +and the rolling of their eyes. The sweat glistened on naked black and +bronze bodies. Among the Monumwezi to my astonishment I saw Memba Sasa, +stripped like the rest, and dancing with all abandon. The firelight +leaped high among the logs that eager hands cast on it; and the shadows +it threw from the swirling, leaping figures wavered out into a great, +calm darkness. + +The night guard understood a little of the native languages, so he stood +behind our chairs and told us in Swahili the meaning of some of the +repeated phrases. + +“This has been a glorious day; few safaris have had so glorious a day.” + +“The masters looked upon the fierce lions and did not run away.” + +“Brave men without other weapons will nevertheless kill with a knife.” + +“The masters' mothers must be brave women, the masters are so brave.” + +“The white woman went hunting, and so were many lions killed.” + +The last one pleased Billy. She felt that at last she was appreciated. + +We sat there spellbound by the weird savagery of the spectacle-the great +licking fire, the dancing, barbaric figures, the rise and fall of the +rhythm, the dust and shuffle, the ebb and flow of the dance, the dim, +half-guessed groups swaying in the darkness-and overhead the calm tropic +night. + +At last, fairly exhausted, they stopped. Some one gave a signal. The men +all gathered in one group, uttered a final yell, very like a cheer, and +dispersed. + +We called up the heroes of the day-Fundi and his companion-and made a +little speech, and bestowed appropriate reward. Then we turned in. + + + + + +XVI. FUNDI + +Fundi, as I have suggested, was built very much on the lines of the +marabout stork. He was about twenty years old, carried himself very +erect, and looked one straight in the eye. His total assets when he came +to us were a pair of raggedy white breeches, very baggy, and an old mesh +undershirt, ditto ditto. To this we added a jersey, a red blanket, and a +water bottle. At the first opportunity he constructed himself a pair of +rawhide sandals. + +Throughout the first part of the trip he had applied himself to business +and carried his load. He never made trouble. Then he and his companion +saw five lions; and the chance Fundi had evidently long been awaiting +came to his hand. He ran himself almost into coma, exhibited himself +game, and so fell under our especial and distinguished notice. After +participating whole-heartedly in the lion dance he and his companion +were singled out for Our Distinguished Favour, to the extent of five +rupees per. Thus far Fundi's history reads just like the history of any +ordinary Captain of Industry. + +Next morning, after the interesting ceremony of rewarding the worthy, we +moved on to a new camp. When the line-up was called for, lo! there stood +Fundi, without a load, but holding firmly my double-barrelled rifle. +Evidently he had seized the chance of favour-and the rifle-and intended +to be no longer a porter but a second gunbearer. + +This looked interesting, so we said nothing. Fundi marched the day +through very proudly. At evening he deposited the rifle in the proper +place, and set to work with a will at raising the big tent. + +The day following he tried it again. It worked. The third day he marched +deliberately up past the syce to take his place near me. And the fourth +day, as we were going hunting, Fundi calmly fell in with the rest. +Nothing had been said, but Fundi had definitely grasped his chance to +rise from the ranks. In this he differed from his companion in glory. +That worthy citizen pocketed his five rupees and was never heard from +again; I do not even remember his name nor how he looked. + +I killed a buck of some sort, and Memba Sasa, as usual, stepped forward +to attend to the trophy. But I stopped him. + +“Fundi,” said I, “if you are a gunbearer, prepare this beast.” + +He stepped up confidently and set to work. I watched him closely. He +did it very well, without awkwardness, though he made one or two minor +mistakes in method. + +“Have you done this before?” I inquired. + +“No, bwana.” + +“How did you learn to do it?” + +“I have watched the gunbearers when I was a porter bringing in meat.” * + + * Except in the greatest emergencies a gunbearer would never + think of carrying any sort of a burden. + +This was pleasing, but it would never do, at this stage of the game, +to let him think so, neither on his own account nor that of the real +gunbearers. + +“You will bring in meat today also,” said I, for I was indeed a +little shorthanded, “and you will learn how to make the top incision +straighter.” + +When we had reached camp I handed him the Springfield. + +“Clean this,” I told him. + +He departed with it, returning it after a time for my inspection. It +looked all right. I catechized him on the method he had employed-for +high velocities require very especial treatment-and found him letter +perfect. + +“You learned this also by watching?” + +“Yes, bwana, I watched the gunbearers by the fire, evenings.” + +Evidently Fundi had been preparing for his chance. + +Next day, as he walked alongside, I noticed that he had not removed the +leather cap, or sight protector, that covers the end of the rifle and is +fastened on by a leather thong. Immediately I called a halt. + +“Fundi,” said I, “do you know that the cover should be in your pocket? +Suppose a rhinoceros jumps up very near at hand: how can you get time to +unlace the thong and hand me the rifle?” + +He thrust the rifle at me suddenly. In some magical fashion the sight +cover had disappeared! + +“I have thought of this,” said he, “and I have tied the thong, so, in +order that it come away with one pull; and I snatch it off, so, with my +left hand while I am giving you the gun with my right hand. It seemed +good to keep the cover on, for there are many branches, and the sight is +very easy to injure.” + +Of course this was good sense, and most ingenious; Fundi bade fair to be +quite a boy, but the native African is very easily spoiled. Therefore, +although my inclination was strongly to praise him, I did nothing of the +sort. + +“A gunbearer carries the gun away from the branches,” was my only +comment. + +Shortly after occurred an incident by way of deeper test. We were all +riding rather idly along the easy slope below the foothills. The grass +was short, so we thought we could see easily everything there was to +be seen; but, as we passed some thirty yards from a small tree, an +unexpected and unnecessary rhinoceros rose from an equally unexpected +and unnecessary green hollow beneath the tree, and charged us. He made +straight for Billy. Her mule, panic-stricken, froze with terror in spite +of Billy's attack with a parasol. I spurred my own animal between her +and the charging brute, with some vague idea of slipping off the other +side as the rhino struck. F. and B. leaped from their own animals, and +F., with a little.28 calibre rifle, took a hasty shot at the big brute. +Now, of course a.28 calibre rifle would hardly injure a rhino, but the +bullet happened to catch his right shoulder just as he was about to come +down on his right foot. The shock tripped him up as neatly as though he +had been upset by a rope. At the same instant Billy's mule came to its +senses and bolted, whereupon I too jumped off. The whole thing took +about two finger snaps of time. At the instant I hit the ground, Fundi +passed the double rifle across the horse's back to me. + +Note two things to the credit of Fundi: in the first place, he had not +bolted; in the second place, instead of running up to the left side of +my mount and perhaps colliding with and certainly confusing me, he had +come up on the right side and passed the rifle to me ACROSS the horse. +I do not know whether or not he had figured this out beforehand, but it +was cleverly done. + +The rhinoceros rolled over and over, like a shot rabbit, kicked for a +moment, and came to his feet. We were now all ready for him, in battle +array, but he had evidently had enough. He turned at right angles and +trotted off, apparently-and probably-none the worse for the little +bullet in his shoulder. + +Fundi now began acquiring things that he supposed befitting to his +dignity. The first of these matters was a faded fez, in which he stuck +a long feather. From that he progressed in worldly wealth. How he got +it all, on what credit, or with what hypnotic power, I do not know. +Probably he hypothecated his wages, certainly he had his five rupees. + +At any rate he started out with a ragged undershirt and a pair of white, +baggy breeches. He entered Nairobi at the end of the trip with a cap, +a neat khaki shirt, two water bottles, a cartridge belt, a sash with a +tassel, a pair of spiral puttees, an old pair of shoes, and a personal +private small boy, picked up en route from some of the savage tribes, +to carry his cooking pot, make his fires, draw his water, +and generally perform his lordly behests. This was indeed +“more-than-oriental-splendour!” + +From now on Fundi considered himself my second gunbearer. I had no use +for him, but Fundi's development interested me, and I wanted to give +him a chance. His main fault at first was eagerness. He had to be rapped +pretty sharply and a good number of times before he discovered that +he really must walk in the rear. His habit of calling my attention to +perfectly obvious things I cured by liberal sarcasm. His intense desire +to take his own line as perhaps opposed to mine when we were casting +about on trail, I abated kindly but firmly with the toe of my boot. His +evident but mistaken tendency to consider himself on an equality with +Memba Sasa we both squelched by giving him the hard and dirty work to +do. But his faults were never those of voluntary omission, and he came +on surprisingly; in fact so surprisingly that he began to get quite +cocky over it. Not that he was ever in the least aggressive or +disrespectful or neglectful-it would have been easy to deal with that +sort of thing-but he carried his head pretty high, and evidently began +to have mental reservations. Fundi needed a little wholesome discipline. +He was forgetting his porter days, and was rapidly coming to consider +himself a full-fledged gunbearer. + +The occasion soon arose. We were returning from a buffalo hunt and ran +across two rhinoceroses, one of which carried a splendid horn. B. +wanted a well developed specimen very much, so we took this chance. The +approach was easy enough, and at seventy yards or so B. knocked her flat +with a bullet from his.465 Holland. The beast was immediately afoot, but +was as promptly smothered by shots from us all. So far the affair was +very simple, but now came complication. The second rhinoceros refused to +leave. We did not want to kill it, so we spent a lot of time and pains +shooing it away. We showered rocks and clods of earth in his direction; +we yelled sharply and whistled shrilly. The brute faced here and there, +his pig eyes blinking, his snout upraised, trying to locate us, and +declining to budge. At length he gave us up as hopeless, and trotted +away slowly. We let him go, and when we thought he had quite departed, +we approached to examine B.'s trophy. + +Whereupon the other craftily returned; and charged us, snorting like +an engine blowing off steam. This was a genuine premeditated charge, +as opposed to a blind rush, and it is offered as a good example of the +sort. + +The rhinoceros had come fairly close before we got into action. He +headed straight for F. and myself, with B. a little to one side. Things +happened very quickly. F. and I each planted a heavy bullet in his head; +while B. sent a lighter Winchester bullet into the ribs. The rhino went +down in a heap eleven yards away, and one of us promptly shot him in the +spine to finish him. + +Personally I was entirely concentrated in the matter at hand-as is +always the way in crises requiring action-and got very few impressions +from anything outside. Nevertheless I imagined, subconsciously that I +had heard four shots. F. and B. disclaimed more than one apiece, so I +concluded myself mistaken, exchanged my heavy rifle with Fundi for the +lighter Winchester, and we started for camp, leaving all the boys +to attend to the dead rhinos. At camp I threw down the lever of my +Winchester-and drew out an exploded shell! + +Here was a double crime on Fundi's part. In the first place, he +had fired the gun, a thing no bearer is supposed ever to do in any +circumstances short of the disarmament and actual mauling of his master. +Naturally this is so, for the white man must be able in an emergency to +depend ABSOLUTELY on his second gun being loaded and ready for his need. +In the second place, Fundi had given me an empty rifle to carry home. +Such a weapon is worse than none in case of trouble; at least I could +have gone up a tree in the latter case. I would have looked sweet +snapping that old cartridge at anything dangerous! + +Therefore after supper we stationed ourselves in a row before the fire, +seated in our canvas chairs, and with due formality sent word that we +wanted all the gunbearers. They came and stood before us. Memba Sasa +erect, military, compact, looking us straight in the eye; Mavrouki +slightly bent forward, his face alive with the little crafty, +calculating smile peculiar to him; Simba, tall and suave, standing with +much social ease; and Fundi, a trifle frightened, but uncertain as to +whether or not he had been found out. + +We stated the matter in a few words. + +“Gunbearers, this man Fundi, when the rhinoceros charged, fired Winchi. +Was this the work of a gunbearer?” + +The three seasoned men looked at each other with shocked astonishment +that such depravity could exist. + +“And being frightened, he gave back Winchi with the exploded cartridge +in her. Was that the work of a gunbearer?” + +“No, bwana,” said Fundi humbly. + +“You, the gunbearers, have been called because we wish to know what +should be done with this man Fundi.” + +It should be here explained that it is not customary to kiboko, or flog, +men of the gunbearer class. They respect themselves and their calling, +and would never stand that sort of punishment. When one blunders, a +sarcastic scolding is generally sufficient; a more serious fault may +be punished on the spot by the white man's fist; or a really bad +dereliction may cause the man's instant degradation from the post. With +this in mind we had called the council of gunbearers. Memba Sasa spoke. + +“Bwana,” said he, “this man is not a true gunbearer. He is no longer +a true porter. He carries a gun in the field, like a gunbearer; and he +knows much of the duty of gunbearer. Also he does not run away nor climb +trees. But he carries in the meat; and he is not a real gunbearer. He is +half porter and half gunbearer.” + +“What punishment shall he have?” + +“Kiboko,” said they. + +“Thank you. Bass!” + +They went, leaving Fundi. We surveyed him, quietly. + +“You a gunbearer!” said we at last. “Memba Sasa says you are half +gunbearer. He was wrong. You are all porter; and you know no more than +they do. It is in our mind to put you back to carrying a load. If you do +not wish to taste the kiboko, you can take a load to-morrow.” + +“The kiboko, bwana,” pleaded Fundi, very abashed and humble. + +“Furthermore,” we added crushingly, “you did not even hit the +rhinoceros!” + +So with all ceremony he got the kiboko. The incident did him a lot of +good, and toned down his exuberance somewhat. Nevertheless he still +required a good deal of training, just as does a promising bird dog in +its first season. Generally his faults were of over-eagerness. Indeed, +once he got me thoroughly angry in face of another rhinoceros by dancing +just out of reach with the heavy rifle, instead of sticking close to me +where I could get at him. I temporarily forgot the rhino, and advanced +on Fundi with the full intention of knocking his fool head off. +Whereupon this six feet something of most superb and insolent pride +wilted down to a small boy with his elbow before his face. + +“Don't hit, bwana! Don't hit!” he begged. + +The whole thing was so comical, especially with Memba Sasa standing +by virtuous and scornful, that I had hard work to keep from laughing. +Fortunately the rhinoceros behaved himself. + +The proud moment of Fundi's life was when safari entered Nairobi at the +end of the first expedition. He had gone forth with a load on his head, +rags on his back, and his only glory was the self-assumed one of the +name he had taken-Fundi, the Expert. He returned carrying a rifle, +rigged from top to toe in new garments and fancy accoutrements, followed +by a toro, or small boy, he had bought from some of the savage tribes to +carry his blanket and cooking pot for him. To the friends who darted out +to the line of march, he was gracious, but he held his head high, and +had no time for mere persiflage. + +I did not take Fundi on my second expedition, for I had no real use for +a second gunbearer. Several times subsequently I saw him on the streets +of Nairobi. Always he came up to greet me, and ask solicitously if I +would not give him a job. This I was unable to do. When we paid off, I +had made an addition to his porter's wages, and had written him a chit. +This said that the boy had the makings of a gunbearer with further +training. It would have been unfair to possible white employers to have +said more. Fundi was, when I left the country, precisely in the position +of any young man who tries to rise in the world. He would not again take +a load as porter, and he was not yet skilled enough or known enough to +pick up more than stray jobs as gunbearer. Before him was struggle and +hard times, with a certainty of a highly considered profession if he won +through. Behind him was steady work without outlets for ambition. It +was distinctly up to him to prove whether he had done well to reach for +ambition, or whether he would have done better in contentment with his +old lot. And that is in essence a good deal like our own world isn't it? + + + + + +XVII. NATIVES + +Up to this time, save for a few Masai at the very beginning of our trip, +we had seen no natives at all. Only lately, the night of the lion dance, +one of the Wanderobo-the forest hunters-had drifted in to tell us of +buffalo and to get some meat. He was a simple soul, small and capable, +of a beautiful red-brown, with his hair done up in a tight, short queue. +He wore three skewers about six inches long thrust through each of his +ears, three strings of blue beads on his neck, a bracelet tight around +his upper arm, a bangle around his ankle, a pair of rawhide sandals, and +about a half yard of cotton cloth which he hung from one shoulder. +As weapons he carried a round-headed, heavy club, or runga, and a +long-bladed spear. He led us to buffalo, accepted a thirty-three cent +blanket, and made fire with two sticks in about thirty seconds. The only +other evidences of human life we had come across were a few beehives +suspended in the trees. These were logs, bored hollow and stopped at +either end. Some of them were very quaintly carved. They hung in the +trees like strange fruits. + +Now, however, after leaving the Isiola, we were to quit the game country +and for days travel among the swarming millions of the jungle. + +A few preliminary and entirely random observations may be permitted me +by way of clearing the ground for a conception of these people. These +observations do not pretend to be ethnological, nor even common logical. + +The first thing for an American to realize is that our own negro +population came mainly from the West Coast, and differed utterly from +these peoples of the highlands in the East. Therefore one must first of +all get rid of the mental image of our own negro “dressed up” in savage +garb. Many of these tribes are not negro at all-the Somalis, the Nandi, +and the Masai, for example-while others belong to the negroid and +Nilotic races. Their colour is general cast more on the red-bronze than +the black, though the Kavirondos and some others are black enough. The +texture of their skin is very satiny and wonderful. This perfection is +probably due to the constant anointing of the body with oils of various +sorts. As a usual thing they are a fine lot physically. The southern +Masai will average between six and seven feet in height, and are almost +invariably well built. Of most tribes the physical development is +remarkably strong and graceful; and a great many of the women will +display a rounded, firm, high-breasted physique in marked contrast to +the blacks of the lowlands. Of the different tribes possibly the Kikuyus +are apt to count the most weakly and spindly examples: though some of +these people, perhaps a majority, are well made. + +Furthermore, the native differentiates himself still further in +impression from our negro in his carriage and the mental attitude that +lies behind it. Our people are trying to pattern themselves on white +men, and succeed in giving a more or less shambling imitation thereof. +The native has standards, ideas, and ideals that perfectly satisfy him, +and that antedated the white man's coming by thousands of years. The +consciousness of this reflects itself in his outward bearing. He does +not shuffle; he is not either obsequious or impudent. Even when he +acknowledges the white man's divinity and pays it appropriate respect, +he does not lose the poise of his own well-worked-out attitude toward +life and toward himself. + +We are fond of calling these people primitive. In the world's standard +of measurement they are primitive, very primitive indeed. But ordinarily +by that term, we mean also undeveloped, embryonic. In that sense we are +wrong. Instead of being at the very dawn of human development, these +people are at the end-as far as they themselves are concerned. The +original racial impulse that started them down the years toward +development has fulfilled its duty and spent its force. They have worked +out all their problems, established all their customs, arranged the +world and its phenomena in a philosophy to their complete satisfaction. +They have lived, ethnologists tell us, for thousands, perhaps hundreds +of thousands of years, just as we find them to-day. From our standpoint +that is in a hopeless intellectual darkness, for they know absolutely +nothing of the most elementary subjects of knowledge. From their +standpoint, however, they have reached the highest DESIRABLE pinnacle +of human development. Nothing remains to be changed. Their customs, +religions, and duties have been worked out and immutably established +long ago; and nobody dreams of questioning either their wisdom or their +imperative necessity. They are the conservatives of the world. + +Nor must we conclude-looking at them with the eyes of our own +civilization-that the savage is, from his standpoint, lazy and idle. +His life is laid out more rigidly than ours will be for a great many +thousands of years. From childhood to old age he performs his every act +in accord with prohibitions and requirements. He must remember them all; +for ignorance does not divert consequences. He must observe them all; in +pain of terrible punishments. For example, never may he cultivate on +the site of a grave; and the plants that spring up from it must never +be cut.* He must make certain complicated offerings before venturing to +harvest a crop. On crossing the first stream of a journey he must touch +his lips with the end of his wetted bow, wade across, drop a stone on +the far side, and then drink. If he cuts his nails, he must throw the +parings into a thicket. If he drink from a stream, and also cross it, +he must eject a mouthful of water back into the stream. He must be +particularly careful not to look his mother-in-law in the face. Hundreds +of omens by the manner of their happening may modify actions, as, on +what side of the road a woodpecker calls, or in which direction a hyena +or jackal crosses the path, how the ground hornbill flies or alights, +and the like. He must notice these things, and change his plans +according to their occurrence. If he does not notice them, they exercise +their influence just the same. This does not encourage a distrait +mental attitude. Also it goes far to explain otherwise unexplainable +visitations. Truly, as Hobley says in his unexcelled work on the +A-Kamba, “the life of a savage native is a complex matter, and he is +hedged round by all sorts of rules and prohibitions, the infringement +of which will probably cause his death, if only by the intense belief he +has in the rules which guide his life.” + + * Customs are not universal among the different tribes. I am + merely illustrating. + +For these rules and customs he never attempts to give a reason. They +are; and that is all there is to it. A mere statement: “This is the +custom” settles the matter finally. There is no necessity, nor passing +thought even, of finding any logical cause. The matter was worked out +in the mental evolution of remote ancestors. At that time, perhaps, +insurgent and Standpatter, Conservative and Radical fought out the +questions of the day, and the Muckrakers swung by their tails and +chattered about it. Those days are all long since over. The questions +of the world are settled forever. The people have passed through the +struggles of their formative period to the ultimate highest perfection +of adjustment to material and spiritual environment of which they were +capable under the influence of their original racial force. + +Parenthetically, it is now a question whether or not an added impulse +can be communicated from without. Such an impulse must (a) unsettle all +the old beliefs, (b) inspire an era of skepticism, (c) reintroduce the +old struggle of ideas between the Insurgent and the Standpatter, and +Radical and the Conservative, (d) in the meantime furnish, from the +older civilization, materials, both in the thought-world and in the +object-world, for building slowly a new set of customs more closely +approximating those we are building for ourselves. This is a longer +and slower and more complicated affair than teaching the native to wear +clothes and sing hymns; or to build houses and drink gin; but it is what +must be accomplished step by step before the African peoples are really +civilized. I, personally, do not think it can be done. + +Now having, a hundred thousand years or so ago, worked out the highest +good of the human race, according to them, what must they say to +themselves and what must their attitude be when the white man has come +and has unrolled his carpet of wonderful tricks? The dilemma is evident. +Either we, as black men, must admit that our hundred-thousand-year-old +ideas as to what constitutes the highest type of human relation to +environment is all wrong, or else we must evolve a new attitude toward +this new phenomena. It is human nature to do the latter. Therefore the +native has not abandoned his old gods; nor has he adopted a new. He +still believes firmly that his way is the best way of doing things, but +he acknowledges the Superman. + +To the Superman, with all races, anything is possible. Only our Superman +is an idea, and ideal. The native has his Superman before him in the +actual flesh. + +We will suppose that our own Superman has appeared among us, +accomplishing things that apparently contravene all our established +tenets of skill, of intellect, of possibility. It will be readily +acknowledged that such an individual would at first create some +astonishment. He wanders into a crowded hotel lobby, let us say, +evidently with the desire of going to the bar. Instead of pushing +laboriously through the crowd, he floats just above their heads, gets +his drink, and floats out again! That is levitation, and is probably +just as simple to him as striking a match is to you and me. After we +get thoroughly accustomed to him and his life, we are no longer vastly +astonished, though always interested, at the various manifestations +of his extraordinary powers. We go right along using the marvellous +wireless, aeroplanes, motor cars, constructive machinery, and the +like that make us confident-justly, of course-in that we are about the +smartest lot of people on earth. And if we see red, white, and blue +streamers of light crossing the zenith at noon, we do not manifest any +very profound amazement. “There's that confounded Superman again,” we +mutter, if we happen to be busy. “I wonder what stunt he's going to do +now!” + +A consideration of the above beautiful fable may go a little way toward +explaining the supposed native stolidity in the face of the white man's +wonders. A few years ago some misguided person brought a balloon to +Nairobi. The balloon interested the white people a lot, but everybody +was chiefly occupied wondering what the natives would do when they saw +THAT! The natives did not do anything. They gathered in large numbers, +and most interestedly watched it go up, and then went home again. But +they were not stricken with wonder to any great extent. So also with +locomotives, motor cars, telephones, phonographs-any of our modern +ingenuities. The native is pleased and entertained, but not astonished. +“Stupid creature, no imagination,” say we, because our pride in showing +off is a wee bit hurt. + +Why should he be astonished? His mental revolution took place when he +saw the first match struck. It is manifestly impossible for any one to +make fire instantaneously by rubbing one small stick. When for the first +time he saw it done, he was indeed vastly astounded. The immutable had +been changed. The law had been transcended. The impossible had been +accomplished. And then, as logical sequence, his mind completed the +syllogism. If the white man can do this impossibility, why not all the +rest? To defy the laws of nature by flying in the air or forcing great +masses of iron to transport one, is no more wonderful than to defy +them by striking a light. Since the white man can provedly do one, what +earthly reason exists why he should not do anything else that hits his +fancy? There is nothing to get astonished at. + +This does not necessarily mean that the native looks on the white man +as a god. On the contrary, your African is very shrewd in the reading of +character. But indubitably white men possess great magic, uncertain in +its extent. + +That is as far as I should care to go, without much deeper acquaintance, +into the attitude of the native mind toward the whites. A superficial +study of it, beyond the general principals I have enunciated, discloses +many strange contradictions. The native respects the white man's warlike +skill, he respects his physical prowess, he certainly acknowledges +tacitly his moral superiority in the right to command. In case of +dispute he likes the white man's adjudication; in case of illness the +man's medicine; in case of trouble the white man's sustaining hand. Yet +he almost never attempts to copy the white man's appearance or ways of +doing things. His own savage customs and habits he fulfils with as much +pride as ever in their eternal fitness. Once I was badgering Memba Sasa, +asking him whether he thought the white skin or the black skin the more +ornamental. “You are not white,” he retorted at last. “That,” pointing +to a leaf of my notebook, “is white. You are red. I do not like the +looks of red people.” + +They call our speech the “snake language,” because of its hissing sound. +Once this is brought to your attention, indeed, you cannot help noticing +the superabundance of the sibilants. + +A queer melange the pigeonholes of an African's brain must contain-fear +and respect, strongly mingled with clear estimate of intrinsic character +of individuals and a satisfaction with his own standards. + +Nor, I think, do we realize sufficiently the actual fundamental +differences between the African and our peoples. Physically they must +be in many ways as different from our selves as though they actually +belonged to a different species. The Masai are a fine big race, +enduring, well developed and efficient. They live exclusively on cow's +milk mixed with blood; no meat, no fruit, no vegetables, no grain; +just that and nothing more. Obviously they must differ from us most +radically, or else all our dietetic theories are wrong. It is a +well-known fact that any native requires a triple dose of white man's +medicine. Furthermore a native's sensitiveness to pain is very much +less than the white man's. This is indubitable. For example, the Wakamba +file-or, rather, chip, by means of a small chisel-all their front +teeth down to needle points, When these happen to fall out, the warrior +substitutes an artificial tooth which he drives down into the socket. +If the savage got the same effects from such a performance that a white +man's dental system would arouse, even “savage stoicism” would hardly +do him much good. There is nothing to be gained by multiplying examples. +Every African traveller can recall a thousand. + +Incidentally, and by the way, I want to add to the milk-and-blood joke +on dietetics another on the physical culturists. We are all familiar +with the wails over the loss of our toe nails. You know what I mean; +they run somewhat like this: shoes are the curse of civilization; if +we wear them much longer we shall not only lose the intended use of our +feet, but we shall lose our toe nails as well; the savage man, etc., +etc., etc. Now I saw a great many of said savage men in Africa, and I +got much interested in their toe nails, because I soon found that our +own civilized “imprisoned” toe nails were very much better developed. In +fact, a large number of the free and untramelled savages have hardly any +toe nails at all! Whether this upsets a theory, nullifies a sentimental +protest, or merely stands as an exception, I should not dare guess. But +the fact is indubitable. + + + + + +XVIII. IN THE JUNGLE (a) THE MARCH TO MERU + +Now, one day we left the Isiola River and cut across on a long upward +slant to the left. In a very short time we had left the plains, and were +adrift in an ocean of brown grass that concealed all but the bobbing +loads atop the safari, and over which we could only see when mounted. It +was glorious feed, apparently, but it contained very few animals for all +that. An animal could without doubt wax fat and sleek therein: but only +to furnish light and salutary meals to beasts of prey. Long grass makes +easy stalking. We saw a few ostriches, some giraffe, and three or +four singly adventurous oryx. The ripening grasses were softer than a +rippling field grain; and even more beautiful in their umber and browns. +Although apparently we travelled a level, nevertheless in the extreme +distance the plains of our hunting were dropping below, and the far off +mountains were slowly rising above the horizon. On the other side were +two very green hills, looking nearly straight up and down, and through a +cleft the splintered snow-clad summit of Mt. Kenia. + +At length this gentle foothill slope broke over into rougher country. +Then, in the pass, we came upon many parallel beaten paths, wider and +straighter than the game trails-native tracks. That night we camped in +a small, round valley under some glorious trees, with green grass around +us; a refreshing contrast after the desert brown. In the distance ahead +stood a big hill, and at its base we could make out amid the tree-green, +the straight slim smoke of many fires and the threads of many roads. + +We began our next morning's march early, and we dropped over the hill +into a wide, cultivated valley. Fields of grain, mostly rape, were +planted irregularly among big scattered trees. The morning air, warming +under the sun, was as yet still, and carried sound well. The cooing, +chattering and calling of thousands of birds mingled with shouts and the +clapping together of pieces of wood. As we came closer we saw that every +so often scaffolds had been erected overlooking the grain, and on these +scaffolds naked boys danced and yelled and worked clappers to scare the +birds from the crops. They seemed to put a great deal of rigour into the +job; whether from natural enthusiasm or efficient direful supervision I +could not say. Certainly they must have worked in watches, however; no +human being could keep up that row continuously for a single day, let +alone the whole season of ripening grain. As we passed they fell silent +and stared their fill. + +On the banks of a boggy little stream that we had to flounder across we +came on a gentleman and lady travelling. They were a tall, well formed +pair, mahogany in colour, with the open, pleasant expression of most of +these jungle peoples. The man wore a string around his waist into which +was thrust a small leafy branch; the woman had on a beautiful skirt made +by halving a banana leaf, using the stem as belt, and letting the leaf +part hang down as a skirt. Shortly after meeting these people we turned +sharp to the right on a well beaten road. + +For nearly two weeks we were to follow this road, so it may be as well +to get an idea of it. Its course was a segment of about a sixth of the +circle of Kenia's foothills. With Kenia itself as a centre, this road +swung among the lower elevations about the base of that great mountain. +Its course was mainly down and up hundreds of the canyons radiating from +the main peak, and over the ridges between them. No sooner were we down, +than we had to climb up; and no sooner were we up, than once more down +we had to plunge. At times, however, we crossed considerable plateaus. +Most of this country was dense jungle, so dense that we could not see +on either side more than fifteen or twenty feet. Occasionally, atop the +ridges, however, we would come upon small open parks. In these jungles +live millions of human beings. + +At once, as soon as we had turned into the main road, we began to meet +people. In the grain fields of the valley we saw only the elevated boys, +and a few men engaged in weaving a little house perched on stilts. We +came across some of these little houses all completed, with conical +roofs. They were evidently used for granaries. As we mounted the slope +on the other side, however, the trees closed in, and we found ourselves +marching down the narrow aisle of the jungle itself. + +It was a dense and beautiful jungle, with very tall trees and the +deepest shade; and the impenetrable tangle to the edge of the track. +Among the trees were the broad leaves of bananas and palms, the fling +of leafy vines. Over the track these leaned, so that we rode through +splashing and mottling shade. Nothing could have seemed wilder than +this apparently impenetrable and yet we had ridden but a short distance +before we realized that we were in fact passing through cultivated land. +It was, again, only a difference in terms. Native cultivation in this +district rarely consists of clearing land and planting crops in due +order, but in leaving the forest proper as it is, and in planting +foodstuffs haphazard wherever a tiny space can be made for even three +hills of corn or a single banana. Thus they add to rather than subtract +from the typical density of the jungle. At first, we found, it took some +practice to tell a farm when we saw it. + +From the track narrow little paths wound immediately out of sight. +Sometimes we saw a wisp of smoke rising above the undergrowth and +eddying in the tops of the trees. Long vine ropes swung from point to +point, hung at intervals with such matters as feathers, bones, miniature +shields, carved sticks, shells and clappers: either as magic or to keep +off the birds. From either side the track we were conscious always of +bright black eyes watching us. Sometimes we caught a glimpse of their +owners crouched in the bush, concealed behind banana leaves, motionless +and straight against a tree trunk. When they saw themselves observed +they vanished without a sound. + +The upper air was musical with birds, and bright with the flutter of +their wings. Rarely did we see them long enough to catch a fair idea of +their size and shape. They flashed from shade to shade, leaving only +an impression of brilliant colour. There were some exceptions: as the +widower-bird, dressed all in black, with long trailing wing-plumes of +which he seemed very proud; and the various sorts of green pigeons and +parrots. There were many flowering shrubs and trees, and the air was +laden with perfume. Strange, too, it seemed to see tall trees with +leaves three or four feet long and half as many wide. + +We were riding a mile or so ahead of the safari. At first we were +accompanied only by our gunbearers and syces. Before long, however, we +began to accumulate a following. + +This consisted at first of a very wonderful young man, probably a +chief's son. He carried a long bright spear, wore a short sword thrust +through a girdle, had his hair done in three wrapped queues, one over +each temple and one behind, and was generally brought to a high state +of polish by means of red earth and oil. About his knee he wore a little +bell that jingled pleasingly at every step. From one shoulder hung a +goat-skin cloak embroidered with steel beads. A small package neatly +done up in leaves probably contained his lunch. He teetered along with a +mincing up and down step, every movement, and the expression of his face +displaying a fatuous self-satisfaction. When we looked back again this +youth had magically become two. Then appeared two women and a white +goat. All except the goat were dressed for visiting, with long chains of +beads, bracelets and anklets, and heavy ornaments in the distended ear +lobes. The manner people sprang apparently out of the ground was very +disconcerting. It was a good deal like those fairy-story moving pictures +where a wave of the wand produces beautiful ladies. By half an hour +we had acquired a long retinue-young warriors, old men, women and +innumerable children. After we had passed, the new recruits stepped +quietly from the shadow of the jungle and fell in. Every one with +nothing much to do evidently made up his mind he might as well go to +Meru now as any other time. + +Also we met a great number of people going in the other direction. Women +were bearing loads of yams. Chiefs' sons minced along, their spears +poised in their left hands at just the proper angle, their bangles +jingling, their right hands carried raised in a most affected manner. +Their social ease was remarkable, especially in contrast with the +awkwardness of the lower poverty-stricken or menial castes. The latter +drew one side to let us pass, and stared. Our chiefs' sons, on the other +hand, stepped springingly and beamingly forward; spat carefully in their +hands (we did the same); shook hands all down the line: exchanged +a long-drawn “moo-o-ga!” with each of us; and departed at the same +springing rapid gait. The ordinary warriors greeted us, but did not +offer to shake hands, thank goodness! There were a great many of them. +Across the valleys and through the open spaces the sun, as it struck +down the trail, was always flashing back from distant spears. Twice we +met flocks of sheep being moved from one point to another. Three or four +herdsmen and innumerable small boys seemed to be in charge. Occasionally +we met a real chief or headman of a village, distinguished by the +fact that he or a servant carried a small wooden stool. With these +dignitaries we always stopped to exchange friendly words. + +These comprised the travelling public. The resident public also showed +itself quite in evidence. Once our retainers had become sufficiently +numerous to inspire confidence, the jungle people no longer hid. On +the contrary, they came out to the very edge of the track to exchange +greetings. They were very good-natured, exceedingly well-formed, and +quite jocular with our boys. Especially did our suave and elegant Simba +sparkle. This resident public, called from its daily labours and duties, +did not always show as gaudy a make-up as did the dressed-up travelling +public. Banana leaves were popular wear, and seemed to us at once pretty +and fresh. To be sure some had rather withered away; but even wool will +shrink. We saw some grass skirts, like the Sunday-school pictures. + +At noon we stopped under a tree by a little stream for lunch. Before +long a dozen women were lined up in front of us staring at Billy with +all their might. She nodded and smiled at them. Thereupon they sent +one of their number away. The messenger returned after a few moments +carrying a bunch of the small eating bananas which she laid at our feet. +Billy fished some beads out of her saddle bags, and presented them. +Friendly relations having been thus fully established, two or three of +the women scurried hastily away, to return a few moments later each with +her small child. To these infants they carefully and earnestly pointed +out Billy and her wonders, talking in a tongue unknown to us. The +admonition undoubtedly ran something like this: + +“Now, my child, look well at this: for when you get to be a very old +person you will be able to look back at the day when with your own +eyes you beheld a white woman. See all the strange things she wears-and +HASN'T she a funny face?” + +We offered these bung-eyed and totally naked youngsters various bribes +in the way of beads, the tinfoil from chocolate, and even a small piece +of the chocolate itself. Most of them howled and hid their faces against +their mothers. The mothers looked scandalized, and hypocritically +astounded, and mortified. + +They made remarks, still in an unknown language, but which much past +experience enabled me to translate very readily: + +“I don't know what has got into little Willie,” was the drift of it. “I +have never known him to act this way before. Why, only yesterday I was +saying to his father that it really seemed as though that child NEVER +cried-” + +It made me feel quite friendly and at home. + +Now at last came two marvellous and magnificent personages before +whom the women and children drew back to a respectful distance. These +potentates squatted down and smiled at us engagingly. Evidently this was +a really important couple, so we called up Simba, who knew the language, +and had a talk. + +They were old men, straight, and very tall, with the hawk-faced, +high-headed dignity of the true aristocrat. Their robes were voluminous, +of some short-haired skins, beautifully embroidered. Around their arms +were armlets of polished buffalo horn. They wore most elaborate ear +ornaments, and long cased marquise rings extending well beyond the first +joints of the fingers. Very fine old gentlemen. They were quite unarmed. + +After appropriate greetings, we learned that these were the chief +and his prime minister of a nearby village hidden in the jungle. We +exchanged polite phrases; then offered tobacco. This was accepted. +From the jungle came a youth carrying more bananas. We indicated our +pleasure. The old men arose with great dignity and departed, sweeping +the women and children before them. + +We rode on. Our acquired retinue, which had waited at a respectful +distance, went on too. I suppose they must have desired the prestige +of being attached to Our Persons. In the depths of the forest Billy +succumbed to the temptation to bargain, and made her first trade. Her +prize was a long water gourd strapped with leather and decorated with +cowry shells. Our boys were completely scandalized at the price she paid +for it, so I fear the wily savage got ahead of her. + +About the middle of the afternoon we sat down to wait for the safari to +catch up. It would never do to cheat our boys out of their anticipated +grand entrance to the Government post at Meru. We finally debouched +from the forest to the great clearing at the head of a most impressive +procession, flags flying, oryx horns blowing, boys chanting and beating +the sides of their loads with the safari sticks. As there happened to be +gathered, at this time, several thousand of warriors for the purpose +of a council, or shauri, with the District Commissioner we had just the +audience to delight our barbaric hearts. + +(b) MERU + +The Government post at Meru is situated in a clearing won from the +forest on the first gentle slopes of Kenia's ranges. The clearing is a +very large one, and on it the grass grows green and short, like a lawn. +It resembles, as much as anything else, the rolling, beautiful downs +of a first-class country club, and the illusion is enhanced by the +Commissioner's house among some trees atop a hill. Well-kept roadways +railed with rustic fences lead from the house to the native quarters +lying in the hollow and to the Government offices atop another hill. +Then also there are the quarters of the Nubian troops; round low houses +with conical grass roofs. + +These, and the presence everywhere of savages, rather take away from +the first country-club effect. A corral seemed full of a seething mob of +natives; we found later that this was the market, a place of exchange. +Groups wandered idly here and there across the greensward; and other +groups sat in circles under the shade of trees, each man's spear stuck +in the ground behind him. At stated points were the Nubians, fine, tall, +black, soldierly men, with red fez, khaki shirt, and short breeches, +bare knees and feet, spiral puttees, and a broad red sash of webbing. +One of these soldiers assigned us a place to camp. We directed our +safari there, and then immediately rode over to pay our respects to the +Commissioner. + +The latter, Horne by name, greeted us with the utmost cordiality, and +offered us cool drinks. Then we accompanied him to a grand shauri or +council of chiefs. + +Horne was a little chap, dressed in flannels and a big slouch hat, +carrying only a light rawhide whip, with very little of the dignity and +“side” usually considered necessary in dealing with wild natives. The +post at Meru had been established only two years, among a people that +had always been very difficult, and had only recently ceased open +hostilities. Nevertheless in that length of time Horne's personal +influence had won them over to positive friendliness. He had, moreover, +done the entire construction work of the post itself; and this we now +saw to be even more elaborate than we had at first realized. Irrigating +ditches ran in all directions brimming with clear mountain water; the +roads and paths were rounded, graded and gravelled; the houses were +substantial, well built and well kept; fences, except of course the +rustic, were whitewashed; the native quarters and “barracks” were well +ranged and in perfect order. The place looked ten years old instead of +only two. + +We followed Horne to an enclosure, outside the gate of which were +stacked a great number of spears. Inside we found the owners of those +spears squatted before the open side of a small, three-walled building +containing a table and a chair. Horne placed himself in the chair, +lounged back, and hit the table smartly with his rawhide whip. From the +centre of the throng an old man got up and made quite a long speech. +When he had finished another did likewise. All was carried out with the +greatest decorum. After four or five had thus spoken, Horne, without +altering his lounging attitude, spoke twenty or thirty words, rapped +again on the table with his rawhide whip, and immediately came over to +us. + +“Now,” said he cheerfully, “we'll have a game of golf.” + +That was amusing, but not astonishing. Most of us have at one time or +another laid out a scratch hole or so somewhere in the vacant lot. We +returned to the house, Horne produced a sufficiency of clubs, and we +sallied forth. Then came the surprise of our life! We played eighteen +holes-eighteen, mind you-over an excellently laid-out and kept-up +course! The fair greens were cropped short and smooth by a well-managed +small herd of sheep; the putting greens were rolled, and in perfect +order; bunkers had been located at the correct distances; there +were water hazards in the proper spots. In short, it was a genuine, +scientific, well-kept golf course. Over it played Horne, solitary except +on the rare occasions when he and his assistant happened to be at the +post at the same time. The nearest white man was six days' journey; +the nearest small civilization 196 miles.* The whole affair was most +astounding. + + * Which was, in turn, over three hundred miles from the + next. + +Our caddies were grinning youngsters a good deal like the Gold +Dust Twins. They wore nothing but our golf bags. Afield were other +supernumerary caddies: one in case we sliced, one in case we pulled, +and one in case we drove straight ahead. Horne explained that unlimited +caddies were easier to get than unlimited golf balls. I can well believe +it. + +F. joined forces with Horne against B. and me for a grand international +match. I regret to state that America was defeated by two holes. + +We returned to find our camp crowded with savages. In a short time we +had established trade relations and were doing a brisk business. Two +years before we should have had to barter exclusively; but now, thanks +to Horne's attempt to collect an annual hut tax, money was some good. We +had, however, very good luck with bright blankets and cotton cloth. +Our beads did not happen here to be in fashion. Probably three months +earlier or later we might have done better with them. The feminine mind +here differs in no basic essential from that of civilization. Fashions +change as rapidly, as often and as completely in the jungle as in Paris. +The trader who brings blue beads when blue beads have “gone out” might +just as well have stayed at home. We bought a number of the pretty +“marquise” rings for four cents apiece (our money), some war clubs or +rungas for the same, several spears, armlets, stools and the like. Billy +thought one of the short, soft skin cloaks embroidered with steel beads +might be nice to hang on the wall. We offered a youth two rupees for +one. This must have been a high price, for every man in hearing of the +words snatched off his cloak and rushed forward holding it out. As that +reduced his costume to a few knick-knacks, Billy retired from the busy +mart until we could arrange matters. + +We dined with Horne. His official residence was most interesting. The +main room was very high to beams and a grass-thatched roof, with a +well-brushed earth floor covered with mats. It contained comfortable +furniture, a small library, a good phonograph, tables, lamps and the +like. When the mountain chill descended, Horne lit a fire in a coal-oil +can with a perforated bottom. What little smoke was produced by the +clean burning wood lost itself far aloft. Leopard skins and other +trophies hung on the wall. We dined in another room at a well-appointed +table. After dinner we sat up until the unheard of hour of ten o'clock +discussing at length many matters that interested us. Horne told us of +his personal bodyguard consisting of one son from each chief of his wide +district. These youths were encouraged to make as good an appearance +as possible, and as a consequence turned out in the extreme of savage +gorgeousness. Horne spoke of them carelessly as a “matter of policy in +keeping the different tribes well disposed,” but I thought he was at +heart a little proud of them. Certainly, later and from other sources, +we heard great tales of their endurance, devotion and efficiency. Also +we heard that Horne had cut in half his six months' leave (earned +by three years' continuous service in the jungle) to hurry back from +England because he could not bear the thought of being absent from the +first collection of the hut tax! He is a good man. + +We said good-night to him and stepped from the lighted house into +the vast tropical night. The little rays of our lantern showed us the +inequalities of the ground, and where to step across the bubbling, +little irrigation streams. But thousands of stars insisted on a +simplification. The broad, rolling meadows of the clearing lay half +guessed in the dim light; and about its edge was the velvet band of +the forest, dark and mysterious, stretching away for leagues into the +jungle. From it near at hand, far away, came the rhythmic beating of +solemn great drums, and the rising and falling chants of the savage +peoples. + +(C) THE CHIEFS + +We left Meru well observed by a very large audience, much to the delight +of our safari boys, who love to show off. We had acquired fourteen more +small boys, or totos, ranging in age from eight to twelve years. These +had been fitted out by their masters to alleviate their original shenzi +appearance of savagery. Some had ragged blankets, which they had already +learned to twist turban wise around their heads; others had ragged +old jerseys reaching to their knees, or the wrecks of full-grown +undershirts; one or two even sported baggy breeches a dozen sizes too +large. Each carried his little load, proudly, atop his head like a real +porter, sufurias or cooking pots, the small bags of potio, and the like. +Inside a mile they had gravitated together and with the small boy's +relish for imitation and for playing a game, had completed a miniature +safari organization of their own. Thenceforth they marched in a compact +little company, under orders of their “headman.” They marched very well, +too, straight and proud and tireless. Of course we inspected their loads +to see that they were not required to carry too much for their strength; +but, I am bound to say, we never discovered an attempt at overloading. +In fact, the toto brigade was treated very well indeed. M'ganga +especially took great interest in their education and welfare. One of +my most vivid camp recollections is that of M'ganga, very benign and +didactic, seated on a chop box and holding forth to a semicircle of +totos squatted on the ground before him. On reaching camp totos had +several clearly defined duties: they must pick out good places for their +masters' individual camps, they must procure cooking stones, they must +collect kindling wood and start fires, they must fill the sufurias with +water and set them over to boil. In the meantime, their masters were +attending to the pitching of the bwana's camp. The rest of the time the +toto played about quite happily, and did light odd jobs, or watched most +attentively while his master showed him small details of a safari-boy's +duty, or taught him simple handicraft. Our boys seemed to take great +pains with their totos and to try hard to teach them. + +Also at Meru we had acquired two cocks and four hens of the ridiculously +small native breed. These rode atop the loads: their feet were tied to +the cords and there they swayed and teetered and balanced all day long, +apparently quite happy and interested. At each new camp site they were +released and went scratching and clucking around among the tents. They +lent our temporary quarters quite a settled air of domesticity. We named +the cocks Gaston and Alphonse and somehow it was rather fine, in +the blackness before dawn, to hear these little birds crowing +stout-heartedly against the great African wilderness. Neither Gaston, +Alphonse nor any of their harem were killed and eaten by their owners; +but seemed rather to fulfil the function of household pets. + +Along the jungle track we met swarms of people coming in to the post. +One large native safari composed exclusively of women were transporting +loads of trade goods for the Indian trader. They carried their burdens +on their backs by means of a strap passing over the top of the head; our +own “tump line” method. The labour seemed in no way to have dashed their +spirits, for they grinned at us, and joked merrily with our boys. Along +the way, every once in a while, we came upon people squatted down behind +small stocks of sugarcane, yams, bananas, and the like. With these our +boys did a brisk trade. Little paths led mysteriously into the jungle. +Down them came more savages to greet us. Everybody was most friendly and +cheerful, thanks to Horne's personal influence. Two years before this +same lot had been hostile. From every hidden village came the headmen +or chiefs. They all wanted to shake hands-the ordinary citizen never +dreamed of aspiring to that honour-and they all spat carefully into +their palms before they did so. This all had to be done in passing; for +ordinary village headmen it was beneath Our Dignity to draw rein. Once +only we broke over this rule. That was in the case of an old fellow with +white hair who managed to get so tangled up in the shrubbery that he +could not get to us. He was so frantic with disappointment that we made +an exception and waited. + +About three miles out, we lost one of our newly acquired totos. Reason: +an exasperated parent who had followed from Meru for the purpose of +reclaiming his runaway offspring. The latter was dragged off howling. +Evidently he, like some of his civilized cousins, had “run away to join +the circus.” As nearly as we could get at it, the rest of the totos, as +well as the nine additional we picked up before we quitted the jungle, +had all come with their parents' consent. In fact, we soon discovered +that we could buy any amount of good sound totos, not house broke +however, for an average of half a rupee (16-1/2 cents) apiece. + +The road was very much up and down hill over the numerous ridges that +star-fish out from Mt. Kenia. We would climb down steep trails from 200 +to 800 feet (measured by aneroid), cross an excellent mountain stream of +crystalline dashing water, and climb out again. The trails of course had +no notion of easy grades. It was very hard work, especially for men with +loads; and it would have been impossible on account of the heat were +it not for the numerous streams. On the slopes and in the bottoms +were patches of magnificent forest; on the crests was the jungle, and +occasionally an outlook over extended views. The birds and the strange +tropical big-leaved trees were a constant delight-exotic and strange. +Billy was in a heaven of joy, for her specialty in Africa was plants, +seeds and bulbs, for her California garden. She had syces, gunbearers +and tent boys all climbing, shaking branches, and generally pawing +about. + +This idiosyncracy of Billy's puzzled our boys hugely. At first they +tried telling her that everything was poisonous; but when that did not +work, they resigned themselves to their fate. In fact, some of the most +enterprising like Memba Sasa, Kitaru, and, later, Kongoni used of their +own accord to hunt up and bring in seeds and blossoms. They did not in +the least understand what it was for; and it used to puzzle them +hugely until out of sheer pity for their uneasiness, I implied that the +Memsahib collected “medicine.” That was rational, so the wrinkled brow +of care was smoothed. From this botanical trait, Billy got her native +name of “Beebee Kooletta”--“The Lady Who Says: Go Get That.” For in +Africa every white man has a name by which he is known among the native +people. If you would get news of your friends, you must know their local +cognomens-their own white man names will not do at all. For example, +I was called either Bwana Machumwani or Bwana N'goma. The former means +merely Master Four-eyes, referring to my glasses. The precise meaning of +the latter is a matter much disputed between myself and Billy. An N'goma +is a native dance, consisting of drum poundings, chantings, and hoppings +around. Therefore I translate myself (most appropriately) as the +Master who Makes Merry. On the other hand, Billy, with true feminine +indirectness, insists that it means “The Master who Shouts and Howls.” I +leave it to any fairminded reader. + +About the middle of the morning we met a Government runner, a proud +youth, young, lithe, with many ornaments and bangles; his red skin +glistening; the long blade of his spear, bound around with a red strip +to signify his office, slanting across his shoulder; his buffalo hide +shield slung from it over his back; the letter he was bearing stuck in +a cleft stick and carried proudly before him as a priest carries a cross +to the heathen-in the pictures. He was swinging along at a brisk pace, +but on seeing us drew up and gave us a smart military salute. + +At one point where the path went level and straight for some distance, +we were riding in an absolute solitude. Suddenly from the jungle on +either side and about fifty yards ahead of us leaped a dozen women. They +were dressed in grass skirts, and carried long narrow wooden shields +painted white and brown. These they clashed together, shrieked shrilly, +and charged down on us at full speed. When within a few yards of +our horses noses they came to a sudden halt, once more clashed their +shields, shrieked, turned and scuttled away as fast as their legs +could carry them. At a hundred yards they repeated the performance; and +charged back at us again. Thus advancing and retreating, shrieking high, +hitting the wooden shields with resounding crash, they preceded our slow +advance for a half mile or so. Then at some signal unperceived by us +they vanished abruptly into the jungle. Once more we rode forward in +silence and in solitude. Why they did it I could not say. + +Of this tissue were our days made. At noon our boys plucked us each two +or three banana leaves which they spread down for us to lie on. Then +we dozed through the hot hours in great comfort, occasionally waking to +blue sky through green trees, or to peer idly into the tangled jungle. +At two o'clock or a little later we would arouse ourselves reluctantly +and move on. The safari we had dimly heard passing us an hour before. +In this country of the direct track we did not attempt to accompany our +men. + +The end of the day's march found us in a little clearing where we could +pitch camp. Generally this was atop a ridge, so that the boys had some +distance to carry water; but that disadvantage was outweighed by the +cleared space. Sometimes we found ourselves hemmed in by a wall of +jungle. Again we enjoyed a broad outlook. One such in especial took in +the magnificent, splintered, snow-capped peak of Kenia on the right, a +tremendous gorge and rolling forested mountains straight ahead, and a +great drop to a plain with other and distant mountains to the left. It +was as fine a panoramic view as one could imagine. + +Our tents pitched, and ourselves washed and refreshed, we gave audience +to the resident chief, who had probably been waiting. With this +potentate we conversed affably, after the usual expectoratorial +ceremonies. Billy, being a mere woman, did not always come in for this; +but nevertheless she maintained what she called her “quarantine gloves,” + and kept them very handy. We had standing orders with our boys for +basins of hot water to be waiting always behind our tents. After the +usual polite exchanges we informed the chief of our needs-firewood, +perhaps, milk, a sheep or the like. These he furnished. When we left we +made him a present of a few beads, a knife, a blanket or such according +to the value of his contribution. + +To me these encounters were some of the most interesting of our many +experiences, for each man differed radically from every other in his +conceptions of ceremony, in his ideas, and in his methods. Our coming +was a good deal of an event, always, and each chief, according to his +temperament and training, tried to do things up properly. And in +that attempt certain basic traits of human nature showed in the very +strongest relief. Thus there are three points of view to take in running +any spectacle: that of the star performer, the stage manager, or the +truly artistic. We encountered well-marked specimens of each. I will +tell you about them. + +The star performer knew his stagecraft thoroughly; and in the exposition +of his knowledge he showed incidentally how truly basic are the +principles of stagecraft anywhere. + +We were seated under a tree near the banks of a stream eating our lunch. +Before us appeared two tall and slender youths, wreathed in smiles, +engaging, and most attentive to the small niceties of courtesy. We +returned their greeting from our recumbent positions, whereupon they +made preparation to squat down beside us. + +“Are you sultans?” we demanded sternly, “that you attempt to sit in Our +Presence,” and we lazily kicked the nearest. + +Not at all abashed, but favourably impressed with our transcendent +importance-as we intended-they leaned gracefully on their spears and +entered into conversation. After a few trifles of airy persiflage they +got down to business. + +“This,” said they, indicating the tiny flat, “is the most beautiful +place to camp in all the mountains.” + +We doubted it. + +“Here is excellent water.” + +We agreed to that. + +“And there is no more water for a journey.” + +“You are liars,” we observed politely. + +“And near is the village of our chief, who is a great warrior, and will +bring you many presents; the greatest man in these parts.” + +“Now you're getting to it,” we observed in English; “you want trade.” + Then in Swahili, “We shall march two hours longer.” + +After a few polite phrases they went away. We finished lunch, remounted, +and rode up the trail. At the edge of the canyon we came to a wide +clearing, at the farther side of which was evidently the village in +question. But the merry villagers, down to the last toro, were drawn up +at the edge of the track in a double line through which we rode. They +were very wealthy savages, and wore it all. Bright neck, arm, and leg +ornaments, yards and yards of cowry shells in strings, blue beads of +all sizes (blue beads were evidently “in”), odd scraps and shapes of +embroidered skins, clean shaves and a beautiful polish characterized +this holiday gathering. We made our royal progress between the +serried ranks. About eight or ten seconds after we had passed the last +villager-just the proper dramatic pause, you observe-the bushes parted +and a splendid, straight, springy young man came into view and stepped +smilingly across the space that separated us. And about eight or ten +seconds after his emergence-again just the right dramatic pause-the +bushes parted again to give entrance to four of the quaintest little +dolls of wives. These advanced all abreast, parted, and took up +positions two either side the smiling chief. This youth was evidently +in the height of fashion, his hair braided in a tight queue bound with +skin, his ears dangling with ornaments, heavy necklaces around his neck, +and armlets etc., ad lib. His robe was of fine monkey skin embroidered +with rosettes of beads, and his spear was very long, bright and keen. He +was tall and finely built carried himself with a free, lithe swing. As +the quintette came to halt, the villagers fell silent and our shauri +began. + +We drew up and dismounted. We all expectorated as gentlemen. + +“These,” said he proudly, “are my beebees.” + +We replied that they seemed like excellent beebees and politely inquired +the price of wives thereabout, and also the market for totos. He gave us +to understand that such superior wives as these brought three cows and +twenty sheep apiece, but that you could get a pretty good toto for half +a rupee. + +“When we look upon our women,” he concluded grandly, “we find them +good; but when we look upon the white women they are as nothing!” + He completely obliterated the poor little beebees with a magnificent +gesture. They looked very humble and abashed. I was, however, a bit +uncertain as to whether this was intended as a genuine tribute to Billy, +or was meant to console us for having only one to his four. + +Now observe the stagecraft of all this: entrance of diplomats, +preliminary conversation introducing the idea of the greatness of +N'Zahgi (for that was his name), chorus of villagers, and, as climax, +dramatic entrance of the hero and heroines. It was pretty well done. + +Again we stopped about the middle of the afternoon in an opening on the +rounded top of a hill. While waiting for the safari to come up, Billy +wandered away fifty or sixty yards to sit under a big tree. She did not +stay long. Immediately she was settled, a dozen women and young girls +surrounded her. They were almost uproariously good-natured, but Billy +was probably the first white woman they had ever seen, and they intended +to make the most of her. Every item of her clothes and equipment they +examined minutely, handled and discussed. When she told them with great +dignity to go away, they laughed consumedly, fairly tumbling into each +other's arms with excess of joy. Billy tried to gather her effects for a +masterly retreat, but found the press of numbers too great. At last she +had to signal for help. One of us wandered over with a kiboko with which +lightly he flicked the legs of such damsels as he could reach. They +scattered like quail, laughing hilariously. Billy was escorted back to +safety. + +Shortly after the Chief and his Prime Minister came in. He was a little +old gray-haired gentleman, as spry as a cricket, quite nervous, and very +chatty. We indicated our wants to him, and he retired after enunciating +many words. The safari came in, made camp. We had tea and a bath. The +darkness fell; and still no Chief, no milk, no firewood, no promises +fulfilled. There were plenty of natives around camp, but when we +suggested that they get out and rustle on our behalf, they merely +laughed good-naturedly. We seriously contemplated turning the whole lot +out of camp. + +Finally we gave it up, and sat down to our dinner. It was now quite +dark. The askaris had built a little campfire out in front. + +Then, far in the distance of the jungle's depths, we heard a faint +measured chanting as of many people coming nearer. From another +direction this was repeated. The two processions approached each other; +their paths converged; the double chanting became a chorus that grew +moment by moment. We heard beneath the wild weird minors the rhythmic +stamping of feet, and the tapping of sticks. The procession debouched +from the jungle's edge into the circle of the firelight. Our old chief +led, accompanied by a bodyguard in all the panoply of war: ostrich +feather circlets enclosing the head and face, shields of bright +heraldry, long glittering spears. These were followed by a dozen of the +quaintest solemn dolls of beebees dressed in all the white cowry shells, +beads and brass the royal treasury afforded, very earnest, very much +on inspection, every little head uplifted, singing away just as hard as +ever they could. Each carried a gourd of milk, a bunch of bananas, some +sugarcane, yams or the like. Straight to the fire marched the pageant. +Then the warriors dividing right and left, drew up facing each other +in two lines, struck their spears upright in the ground, and stood at +attention. The quaint brown little women lined up to close the end of +this hollow square, of which our group was, roughly speaking, the +fourth side. Then all came to attention. The song now rose to a wild +and ecstatic minor chanting. The beebees, still singing, one by one cast +their burdens between the files and at our feet in the middle of the +hollow square. Then they continued their chant, singing away at the tops +of their little lungs, their eyes and teeth showing, their pretty bodies +held rigidly upright. The warriors, very erect and military, stared +straight ahead. + +And the chief? Was he the centre of the show, the important leading man, +to the contemplation of whom all these glories led? Not at all! This +particular chief did not have the soul of a leading man, but rather the +soul of a stage manager. Quite forgetful of himself and his part in the +spectacle, his brow furrowed with anxiety, he was flittering from one to +another of the performers. He listened carefully to each singer in turn, +holding his hand behind his ear to catch the individual note, striking +one on the shoulder in admonition, nodding approval at another. He +darted unexpectedly across to scrutinize a warrior, in the chance of +catching a flicker of the eyelid even. Nary a flicker! They did their +stage manager credit, and stood like magnificent bronzes. He even ran +across to peer into our own faces to see how we liked it. + +With a sudden crescendo the music stopped. Involuntarily we broke +into handclapping. The old boy looked a bit startled at this, but we +explained to him, and he seemed very pleased. We then accepted formally +the heap of presents, by touching them-and in turn passed over a +blanket, a box of matches, and two needles, together with beads for the +beebees. Then F., on an inspiration, produced his flashlight. This made +a tremendous sensation. The women tittered and giggled and blinked as +its beams were thrown directly into their eyes; the chief's sons grinned +and guffawed; the chief himself laughed like a pleased schoolboy, and +seemed never to weary of the sudden shutting on and off of the switch. +But the trusty Spartan warriors, standing still in their formation +behind their planted spears, were not to be shaken. They glared straight +in front of them, even when we held the light within a few inches of +their eyes, and not a muscle quivered! + +“It is wonderful! wonderful!” the old man repeated. “Many Government men +have come here, but none have had anything like that! The bwanas must be +very great sultans!” + +After the departure of our friends, we went rather grandly to bed. We +always did after any one had called us sultans. + +But our prize chief was an individual named M'booley.* Our camp here +also was on a fine cleared hilltop between two streams. After we had +traded for a while with very friendly and prosperous people M'booley +came in. He was young, tall, straight, with a beautiful smooth lithe +form, and his face was hawklike and cleverly intelligent. He carried +himself with the greatest dignity and simplicity, meeting us on an easy +plane of familiarity. I do not know how I can better describe his manner +toward us than to compare it to the manner the member of an exclusive +golf club would use to one who is a stranger, but evidently a guest. He +took our quality for granted; and supposed we must do the same by him, +neither acting as though he considered us “great white men,” nor yet +standing aloof and too respectful. And as the distinguishing feature of +all, he was absolutely without personal ornament. + + * Pronounce each o separately. + +Pause for a moment to consider what a real advance in esthetic taste +that one little fact stands for. All M'booley's attendants were the +giddiest and gaudiest savages we had yet seen, with more colobus fur, +sleighbells, polished metal, ostrich plumes, and red paint than would +have fitted out any two other royal courts of the jungle. The women too +were wealthy and opulent without limit. It takes considerable perception +among our civilized people to realize that severe simplicity amid ultra +magnificence makes the most effective distinguishing of an individual. +If you do not believe it, drop in at the next ball to which you are +invited. M'booley had fathomed this, and what was more he had the +strength of mind to act on it. Any savage loves finery for its own +sake. His hair was cut short, and shaved away at the edges to leave what +looked like an ordinary close-fitting skull cap. He wore one pair of +plain armlets on his left upper arm and small simple ear-rings. His robe +was black. He had no trace of either oil or paint, nor did he even carry +a spear. + +He greeted us with good-humoured ease, and inquired conversationally if +we wanted anything. We suggested wood and milk, whereupon still +smiling, he uttered a few casual words in his own language to no one in +particular. There was no earthly doubt that he was chief. Three of the +most gorgeous and haughty warriors ran out of camp. Shortly long +files of women came in bringing loads of firewood; and others carrying +bananas, yams, sugarcane and a sheep. Truly M'booley did things on a +princely scale. We thanked him. He accepted the thanks with a casual +smile, waved his hand and went on to talk of something else. In due +order our M'ganga brought up one of our best trade blankets, to which we +added a half dozen boxes of matches and a razor. + +Now into camp filed a small procession: four women, four children, and +two young men. These advanced to where M'booley was standing smoking +with great satisfaction one of B's tailor-made cigarettes. M'booley +advanced ten feet to meet them, and brought them up to introduce them +one by one in the most formal fashion. These were of course his family, +and we had to confess that they “saw” N'Zahgi's outfit of ornaments and +“raised” him beyond the ceiling. We gave them each in turn the handshake +of ceremony, first with the palms as we do it, and then each grasping +the other's upright thumb. The “little chiefs” were proud, aristocratic +little fellows, holding themselves very straight and solemn. I think one +would have known them for royalty anywhere. + +It was quite a social occasion. None of our guests was in the least ill +at ease; in fact, the young ladies were quite coy and flirtatious. We +had a great many jokes. Each of the little ladies received a handful +of prevailing beads. M'booley smiled benignly at these delightful +femininities. After a time he led us to the edge of the hill and showed +us his houses across the cation, perched on a flat about halfway up the +wall. They were of the usual grass-thatched construction, but rather +larger and neater than most. Examining them through the glasses we saw +that a little stream had been diverted to flow through the front +yard. M'booley waved his hand abroad and gave us to understand that he +considered the outlook worth looking at. It was; but an appreciation of +that fact is foreign to the average native. Next morning, when we rode +by very early, we found the little flat most attractively cleared +and arranged. M'booley was out to shake us by the hand in farewell, +shivering in the cold of dawn. The flirtatious and spoiled little +beauties were not in evidence. + +One day after two very deep canyons we emerged from the forest jungle +into an up and down country of high jungle bush-brush. From the top +of a ridge it looked a good deal like a northern cut-over pine country +grown up very heavily to blackberry vines; although, of course, when +we came nearer, the “blackberry vines” proved to be ten or twenty feet +high. This was a district of which Horne had warned us. The natives +herein were reported restless and semi-hostile; and in fact had never +been friendly. They probably needed the demonstration most native tribes +seem to require before they are content to settle down and be happy. At +any rate safaris were not permitted in their district; and we ourselves +were allowed to go through merely because we were a large party, did not +intend to linger, and had a good reputation with natives. + +It is very curious how abruptly, in Central Africa, one passes from one +condition to another, from one tribe or race to the next. Sometimes, as +in the present case, it is the traversing of a deep cation; at others +the simple crossing of a tiny brook is enough. Moreover the line of +demarcation is clearly defined, as boundaries elsewhere are never +defined save in wartime. + +Thus we smiled our good-bye to a friendly numerous people, descended a +hill, and ascended another into a deserted track. After a half mile we +came unexpectedly on to two men carrying each a load of reeds. These +they abandoned and fled up the hillside through the jungle, in spite of +our shouted assurances. A moment later they reappeared at some distance +above us, each with a spear he had snatched from somewhere; they were +unarmed when we first caught sight of them. Examined through the glasses +they proved to be sullen looking men, copper coloured, but broad across +the cheekbones, broad in the forehead, more decidedly of the negro type +than our late hosts. + +Aside from these two men we travelled through an apparently deserted +jungle. I suspect, however, that we were probably well watched; for when +we stopped for noon we heard the gunbearers beyond the screen of leaves +talking to some one. On learning from our boys that these were some of +the shenzis, we told them to bring the savages in for a shauri; but in +this our men failed, nor could they themselves get nearer than fifty +yards or so to the wild people. So until evening our impression remained +that of two distant men, and the indistinct sound of voices behind a +leafy screen. + +We made camp comparatively early in a wide open space surrounded by low +forest. Almost immediately then the savages commenced to drift in, +very haughty and arrogant. They were fully armed. Besides the spear and +decorated shield, some of them carried the curious small grass spears. +These are used to stab upward from below, the wielder lying flat in the +grass. Some of these men were fantastically painted with a groundwork +ochre, on which had been drawn intricate wavy designs on the legs, +like stockings, and varied stripes across the face. One particularly +ingenious individual, stark naked, had outlined a roughly entire +skeleton! He was a gruesome object! They stalked here and there through +the camp, looking at our men and their activities with a lofty and +silent contempt. + +You may be sure we had our arrangements, though they did not appear on +the surface. The askaris, or native soldiers, were posted here and there +with their muskets; the gunbearers also kept our spare weapons by them. +The askaris could not hit a barn, but they could make a noise. The +gunbearers were fair shots. + +Of course the chief and his prime minister came in. They were +evil-looking savages. To them we paid not the slightest attention, but +went about our usual business as though they did not exist. At the end +of an hour they of their own initiative greeted us. We did not hear +them. Half an hour later they disappeared, to return after an interval, +followed by a string of young men bearing firewood. Evidently our +bearing had impressed them, as we had intended. We then unbent far +enough to recognize them, carried on a formal conversation for a few +moments, gave them adequate presents and dismissed them. Then we ordered +the askaris to clear camp and to keep it clear. No women had appeared. +Even the gifts of firewood had been carried by men, a most unusual +proceeding. + +As soon as dark fell the drums began roaring in the forest all about our +clearing, and the chanting to rise. We instructed our men to shoot first +and inquire afterward, if a shenzi so much as showed himself in the +clearing. This was not as bad as it sounded; the shenzi stood in no +immediate danger. Then we turned in to a sleep rather light and broken +by uncertainty. I do not think we were in any immediate danger of a +considered attack, for these people were not openly hostile; but there +was always a chance that the savages might by their drum pounding and +dancing work themselves into a frenzy. Then we might have to do a little +rapid shooting. Not for one instant the whole night long did those +misguided savages cease their howling and dancing. At any rate we cost +them a night's sleep. + +Next morning we took up our march through the deserted tracks once more. +Not a sign of human life did we encounter. About ten o'clock we climbed +down a tremendous gash of a box canyon with precipitous cliffs. From +below we looked back to see, perched high against the skyline, the +motionless figures of many savages watching us from the crags. So we had +had company after all, and we had not known it. This canyon proved to +be the boundary line. With the same abruptness we passed again into +friendly country. + +(d) OUT THE OTHER SIDE + +We left the jungle finally when we turned on a long angle away from +Kenia. At first the open country of the foothills was closely cultivated +with fields of rape and maize. We saw some of the people breaking new +soil by means of long pointed sticks. The plowmen quite simply inserted +the pointed end in the ground and pried. It was very slow hard work. In +other fields the grain stood high and good. From among the stalks, as +from a miniature jungle, the little naked totos stared out, and the +good-natured women smiled at us. The magnificent peak of Kenia had now +shaken itself free of the forests. On its snow the sunrises and sunsets +kindled their fires. The flames of grass fires, too, could plainly be +made out, incredible distances away, and at daytime, through the reek, +were fascinating suggestions of distant rivers, plains, jungles, and +hills. You see, we were still practically on the wide slope of Kenia's +base, though the peak was many days away, and so could look out over +wide country. + +The last half day of this we wandered literally in a rape field. The +stalks were quite above our heads, and we could see but a few yards in +any direction. In addition the track had become a footpath not over two +feet wide. We could occasionally look back to catch glimpses of a pack +or so bobbing along on a porter's head. From our own path hundreds of +other paths branched; we were continually taking the wrong fork and +moving back to set the safari right before it could do likewise. This we +did by drawing a deep double line in the earth across the wrong trail. +Then we hustled on ahead to pioneer the way a little farther; our +difficulties were further complicated by the fact that we had sent our +horses back to Nairobi for fear of the tsetse fly, so we could not see +out above the corn. All we knew was that we ought to go down hill. + +At the ends of some of our false trails we came upon fascinating little +settlements: groups of houses inside brush enclosures, with low wooden +gateways beneath which we had to stoop to enter. Within were groups of +beehive houses with small naked children and perhaps an old woman or old +man seated cross-legged under a sort of veranda. From them we obtained +new-and confusing-directions. + +After three o'clock we came finally out on the edge of a cliff fifty or +sixty feet high, below which lay uncultivated bottom lands like a great +meadow and a little meandering stream. We descended the cliff, and +camped by the meandering stream. + +By this time we were fairly tired from long walking in the heat, and so +were content to sit down under our tent-fly before our little table, and +let Mahomet bring us sparklets and lime juice. Before us was the flat of +a meadow below the cliffs and the cliffs themselves. Just below the rise +lay a single patch of standing rape not over two acres in extent, the +only sign of human life. It was as though this little bit had overflowed +from the countless millions on the plateau above. Beyond it arose a thin +signal of smoke. + +We sipped our lime juice and rested. Soon our attention was attracted +by the peculiar actions of a big flock of very white birds. They rose +suddenly from one side of the tiny rape field, wheeled and swirled like +leaves in the wind, and dropped down suddenly on the other side the +patch. After a few moments they repeated the performance. The sun caught +the dazzling white of their plumage. At first we speculated on what +they might be, then on what they were doing, to behave in so peculiar +a manner. The lime juice and the armchair began to get in their +recuperative work. Somehow the distance across that flat did not seem +quite as tremendous as at first. Finally I picked up the shotgun and +sauntered across to investigate. The cause of action I soon determined. +The owner of that rape field turned out to be an emaciated, gray-haired +but spry old savage. He was armed with a spear; and at the moment his +chief business in life seemed to be chasing a large flock of white birds +off his grain. Since he had no assistance, and since the birds held his +spear in justifiable contempt as a fowling piece, he was getting much +exercise and few results. The birds gave way before his direct charge, +flopped over to the other side, and continued their meal. They had +already occasioned considerable damage; the rape heads were bent and +destroyed for a space of perhaps ten feet from the outer edge of the +field. As this grain probably constituted the old man's food supply +for a season, I did not wonder at the vehemence with which he shook his +spear at his enemies, nor the apparent flavour of his language, though I +did marvel at his physical endurance. As for the birds, they had become +cynical and impudent; they barely fluttered out of the way. + +I halted the old gentleman and hastened to explain that I was neither a +pirate, a robber, nor an oppressor of the poor. This as counter-check to +his tendency to flee, leaving me in sole charge. He understood a little +Swahili, and talked a few words of something he intended for that +language. By means of our mutual accomplishment in that tongue, and +through a more efficient sign language, I got him to understand the plan +of campaign. It was very simple. I squatted down inside the rape, while +he went around the other side to scare them up. + +The white birds uttered their peculiarly derisive cackle at the old man +and flapped over to my side. Then they were certainly an astonished +lot of birds. I gave them both barrels and dropped a pair; got two more +shots as they swung over me and dropped another pair, and brought down a +straggling single as a grand finale. The flock, with shrill, derogatory +remarks, flew in an airline straight away. They never deviated, as far +as I could follow them with the eye. Even after they had apparently +disappeared, I could catch an occasional flash of white in the sun. + +Now the old gentleman came whooping around with long, undignified bounds +to fall on his face and seize my foot in an excess of gratitude. He rose +and capered about, he rushed out and gathered in the slain one by one +and laid them in a pile at my feet. Then he danced a jig-step around +them and reviled them, and fell on his face once more, repeating the +word “Bwana! bwana! bwana!” over and over-“Master! master! master!” We +returned to camp together, the old gentleman carrying the birds, and +capering about like a small boy, pouring forth a flood of his sort of +Swahili, of which I could understand only a word here and there. Memba +Sasa, very dignified and scornful of such performances, met us halfway +and took my gun. He seemed to be able to understand the old fellow's +brand of Swahili, and said it over again in a brand I could understand. +From it I gathered that I was called a marvellously great sultan, a +protector of the poor, and other Arabian Nights titles. + +The birds proved to be white egrets. Now at home I am strongly against +the killing of these creatures, and have so expressed myself on many +occasions. But, looking from the beautiful white plumage of these +villainous mauraders, to the wrinkled countenance of the grateful weary +old savage, I could not fan a spark of regret. And from the straight +line of their retreating flight I like to think that the rest of the +flock never came back, but took their toll from the wider fields of the +plateau above. + +Next day we reentered the game-haunted wilderness, nor did we see any +more native villages until many weeks later we came into the country of +the Wakamba. + + + + + +XIX. THE TANA RIVER + +Our first sight of the Tana River was from the top of a bluff. It flowed +below us a hundred feet, bending at a sharp elbow against the cliff +on which we stood. Out of the jungle it crept sluggishly and into the +jungle it crept again, brown, slow, viscid, suggestive of the fevers and +the lurking beasts by which, indeed, it was haunted. From our elevation +we could follow its course by the jungle that grew along its banks. +At first this was intermittent, leaving thin or even open spaces at +intervals, but lower down it extended away unbroken and very tall. The +trees were many of them beginning to come into flower. + +Either side of the jungle were rolling hills. Those to the left made up +to the tremendous slopes of Kenia. Those to the right ended finally in +a low broken range many miles away called the Ithanga Hills. The country +gave one the impression of being clothed with small trees; although +here and there this growth gave space to wide grassy plains. Later we +discovered that the forest was more apparent than real. The small trees, +even where continuous, were sparse enough to permit free walking in all +directions, and open enough to allow clear sight for a hundred yards or +so. Furthermore, the shallow wide valleys between the hills were almost +invariably treeless and grown to very high thick grass. + +Thus the course of the Tana possessed advantages to such as we. By +following in general the course of the stream we were always certain +of wood and water. The river itself was full of fish-not to speak of +hundreds of crocodiles and hippopotamuses. The thick river jungle gave +cover to such animals as the bushbuck, leopard, the beautiful colobus, +some of the tiny antelope, waterbuck, buffalo and rhinoceros. Among +the thorn and acacia trees of the hillsides one was certain of impalla, +eland, diks-diks, and giraffes. In the grass bottoms were lions, +rhinoceroses, a half dozen varieties of buck, and thousands and +thousands of game birds such as guinea fowl and grouse. On the plains +fed zebra, hartebeeste, wart-hog, ostriches, and several species of the +smaller antelope. As a sportsman's paradise this region would be hard to +beat. + +We were now afoot. The dreaded tsetse fly abounded here, and we had +sent our horses in via Fort Hall. F. had accompanied them, and hoped to +rejoin us in a few days or weeks with tougher and less valuable mules. +Pending his return we moved on leisurely, camping long at one spot, +marching short days, searching the country far and near for the special +trophies of which we stood in need. + +It was great fun. Generally we hunted each in his own direction and +according to his own ideas. The jungle along the river, while not the +most prolific in trophies, was by all odds the most interesting. It was +very dense, very hot, and very shady. Often a thorn thicket would fling +itself from the hills right across to the water's edge, absolutely and +hopelessly impenetrable save by way of the rhinoceros tracks. Along +these then we would slip, bent double, very quietly and gingerly, +keeping a sharp lookout for the rightful owners of the trail. Again +we would wander among lofty trees through the tops of which the sun +flickered on festooned serpent-like vines. Every once in a while we +managed a glimpse of the sullen oily river through the dense leaf screen +on its banks. The water looked thick as syrup, of a deadly menacing +green. Sometimes we saw a loathsome crocodile lying with his nose just +out of water, or heard the snorting blow of a hippopotamus coming up for +air. Then the thicket forced us inland again. We stepped very slowly, +very alertly, our ears cocked for the faintest sound, our eyes roving. +Generally, of course, the creatures of the jungle saw us first. We +became aware of them by a crash or a rustling or a scamper. Then we +stood stock listening with all our ears for some sound distinguishing +to the species. Thus I came to recognize the queer barking note of the +bushbuck, for example, and to realize how profane and vulgar that and +the beautiful creature, the impalla, can be when he forgets himself. As +for the rhinoceros, he does not care how much noise he makes, nor how +badly he scares you. + +Personally, I liked very well to circle out in the more open country +until about three o'clock, then to enter the river jungle and work +my way slowly back toward camp. At that time of day the shadows were +lengthening, the birds and animals were beginning to stir about. In +the cooling nether world of shadow we slipped silently from thicket +to thicket, from tree to tree; and the jungle people fled from us, or +withdrew, or gazed curiously, or cursed us as their dispositions varied. + +While thus returning one evening I saw my first colobus. He was swinging +rapidly from one tree to another, his long black and white fur shining +against the sun. I wanted him very much, and promptly let drive at him +with the 405 Winchester. I always carried this heavier weapon in the +dense jungle. Of course I missed him, but the roar of the shot so +surprised him that he came to a stand. Memba Sasa passed me the +Springfield, and I managed to get him in the head. At the shot another +flashed into view, high up in the top of a tree. Again I aimed and +fired. The beast let go and fell like a plummet. “Good shot,” said I to +myself. Fifty feet down the colobus seized a limb and went skipping away +through the branches as lively as ever. In a moment he stopped to look +back, and by good luck I landed him through the body. When we retrieved +him we found that the first shot had not hit him at all! + +At the time I thought he must have been frightened into falling; but +many subsequent experiences showed me that this sheer let-go-all-holds +drop is characteristic of the colobus and his mode of progression. He +rarely, as far as my observation goes, leaps out and across as do +the ordinary monkeys, but prefers to progress by a series of slanting +ascents followed by breath-taking straight drops to lower levels. When +closely pressed from beneath, he will go as high as he can, and will +then conceal himself in the thick leaves. + +B. and I procured our desired number of colobus by taking advantage of +this habit-as soon as we had learned it. Shooting the beasts with our +rifles we soon found to be not only very difficult, but also destructive +of the skins. On the other hand, a man could not, save by sheer good +fortune, rely on stalking near enough to use a shotgun. Therefore we +evolved a method productive of the maximum noise, row, barked shins, +thorn wounds, tumbles, bruises-and colobus! It was very simple. We took +about twenty boys into the jungle with us, and as soon as we caught +sight of a colobus we chased him madly. That was all there was to it. + +And yet this method, simple apparently to the point of imbecility, +had considerable logic back of it after all; for after a time somebody +managed to get underneath that colobus when he was at the top of a tree. +Then the beast would hide. + +Consider then a tumbling riotous mob careering through the jungle as +fast as the jungle would let it, slipping, stumbling, falling flat, +getting tangled hopelessly, disentangling with profane remarks, falling +behind and catching up again, everybody yelling and shrieking. Ahead of +us we caught glimpses of the sleek bounding black and white creature, +running up the long slanting limbs, and dropping like a plummet into the +lower branches of the next tree. We white men never could keep up with +the best of our men at this sort of work, although in the open country I +could hold them well enough. We could see them dashing through the thick +cover at a great rate of speed far ahead of us. After an interval came +a great shout in chorus. By this we knew that the quarry had been +definitely brought to a stand. Arriving at the spot we craned our heads +backward, and proceeded to get a crick in the neck trying to make out +invisible colobus in the very tops of the trees above us. For gaudily +marked beasts the colobus were extraordinarily difficult to see. This +was in no sense owing to any far-fetched application of protective +colouration; but to the remarkable skill the animals possessed +in concealing themselves behind apparently the scantiest and most +inadequate cover. Fortunately for us our boys' ability to see them was +equally remarkable. Indeed, the most difficult part of their task was to +point the game out to us. We squinted, and changed position, and tried +hard to follow directions eagerly proffered by a dozen of the men. +Finally one of us would, by the aid of six power-glasses, make out, +or guess at a small tuft of white or black hair showing beyond the +concealment of a bunch of leaves. We would unlimber the shotgun and send +a charge of BB into that bunch. Then down would plump the game, to +the huge and vociferous delight of all the boys. Or, as occasionally +happened, the shot was followed merely by a shower of leaves and a +chorus of expostulations indicating that we had mistaken the place, and +had fired into empty air. + +In this manner we gathered the twelve we required between us. At noon +we sat under the bank, with the tangled roots of trees above us, and the +smooth oily river slipping by. You may be sure we always selected a +spot protected by very shoal water, for the crocodiles were numerous. I +always shot these loathsome creatures whenever I got a chance, whenever +the sound of a shot would not alarm more valuable game. Generally they +were to be seen in midstream, just the tip of their snouts above water, +and extraordinarily like anything but crocodiles. Often it took several +close scrutinies through the glass to determine the brutes. This +required rather nice shooting. More rarely we managed to see them on the +banks, or only half submerged. In this position, too, they were all but +undistinguishable as living creatures. I think this is perhaps because +of their complete immobility. The creatures of the woods, standing quite +still, are difficult enough to see; but I have a notion that the eye, +unknown to itself, catches the sum total of little flexings of the +muscles, movements of the skin, winkings, even the play of wind and +light in the hair of the coat, all of which, while impossible of +analysis, together relieve the appearance of dead inertia. The vitality +of a creature like the crocodile, however, seems to have withdrawn into +the inner recesses of its being. It lies like a log of wood, and for a +log of wood it is mistaken. + +Nevertheless the crocodile has stored in it somewhere a fearful +vitality. The swiftness of its movements when seizing prey is most +astonishing; a swirl of water, the sweep of a powerful tail, and the +unfortunate victim has disappeared. For this reason it is especially +dangerous to approach the actual edge of any of the great rivers, unless +the water is so shallow that the crocodile could not possibly approach +under cover, as is its cheerful habit. We had considerable difficulty in +impressing this elementary truth on our hill-bred totos until one day, +hearing wild shrieks from the direction of the river, I rushed down +to find the lot huddled together in the very middle of a sand spit +that-reached well out into the stream. Inquiry developed that while +paddling in the shallows they had been surprised by the sudden +appearance of an ugly snout and well drenched by the sweep of an eager +tail. The stroke fortunately missed. We stilled the tumult, sat down +quietly to wait, and at the end of ten minutes had the satisfaction of +abating that croc. + +Generally we killed the brutes where we found them and allowed them to +drift away with the current. Occasionally however we wanted a piece of +hide, and then tried to retrieve them. One such occasion showed very +vividly the tenacity of life and the primitive nervous systems of these +great saurians. + +I discovered the beast, head out of water, in a reasonable sized pool +below which were shallow rapids. My Springfield bullet hit him fair, +whereupon he stood square on his head and waved his tail in the air, +rolled over three or four times, thrashed the water, and disappeared. +After waiting a while we moved on downstream. Returning four hours later +I sneaked up quietly. There the crocodile lay sunning himself on the +sand bank. I supposed he must be dead; but when I accidentally broke a +twig, he immediately commenced to slide off into the water. Thereupon +I stopped him with a bullet in the spine. The first shot had smashed +a hole in his head, just behind the eye, about the size of an ordinary +coffee cup. In spite of this wound, which would have been instantly +fatal to any warm-blooded animal, the creature was so little affected +that it actually reacted to a slight noise made at some distance from +where it lay. Of course the wound would probably have been fatal in the +long run. + +The best spot to shoot at, indeed, is not the head but the spine +immediately back of the head. + +These brutes are exceedingly powerful. They are capable of taking down +horses and cattle, with no particular effort. This I know from my +own observation. Mr. Fleischman, however, was privileged to see +the wonderful sight of the capture and destruction of a full-grown +rhinoceros by a crocodile. The photographs he took of this most +extraordinary affair leave no room for doubt. Crossing a stream was +always a matter of concern to us. The boys beat the surface of the water +vigorously with their safari sticks. On occasion we have even let loose +a few heavy bullets to stir up the pool before venturing in. + +A steep climb through thorn and brush would always extricate us from the +river jungle when we became tired of it. Then we found ourselves in a +continuous but scattered growth of small trees. Between the trunks of +these we could see for a hundred yards or so before their numbers closed +in the view. Here was the favourite haunt of numerous beautiful impalla. +We caught glimpses of them, flashing through the trees; or occasionally +standing, gazing in our direction, their slender necks stretched high, +their ears pointed for us. These curious ones were generally the does. +The bucks were either more cautious or less inquisitive. A herd or so +of eland also liked this covered country; and there were always a +few waterbuck and rhinoceroses about. Often too we here encountered +stragglers from the open plains-zebra or hartebeeste, very alert and +suspicious in unaccustomed surroundings. + +A great deal of the plains country had been burned over; and a +considerable area was still afire. The low bright flames licked their +way slowly through the grass in a narrow irregular band extending +sometimes for miles. Behind it was blackened soil, and above it rolled +dense clouds of smoke. Always accompanied it thousands of birds wheeling +and dashing frantically in and out of the murk, often fairly at the +flames themselves. The published writings of a certain worthy and +sentimental person waste much sympathy over these poor birds dashing +frenziedly about above their destroyed nests. As a matter of fact they +are taking greedy advantage of a most excellent opportunity to get +insects cheap. Thousands of the common red-billed European storks +patrolled the grass just in front of the advancing flames, or wheeled +barely above the fire. Grasshoppers were their main object, although +apparently they never objected to any small mammals or reptiles that +came their way. Far overhead wheeled a few thousand more assorted +soarers who either had no appetite or had satisfied it. + +The utter indifference of the animals to the advance of a big +conflagration always impressed me. One naturally pictures the beasts as +fleeing wildly, nostrils distended, before the devouring element. On +the contrary I have seen kongoni grazing quite peacefully with flames on +three sides of them. The fire seems to travel rather slowly in the tough +grass; although at times and for a short distance it will leap to a wild +and roaring life. Beasts will then lope rapidly away to right or left, +but without excitement. + +On these open plains we were more or less pestered with ticks of +various sizes. These clung to the grass blades; but with no invincible +preference for that habitat; trousers did them just as well. Then they +ascended looking for openings. They ranged in size from little red ones +as small as the period of a printed page to big patterned fellows the +size of a pea. The little ones were much the most abundant. At times +I have had the front of my breeches so covered with them that their +numbers actually imparted a reddish tinge to the surface of the cloth. +This sounds like exaggeration, but it is a measured statement. The +process of de-ticking (new and valuable word) can then be done only by +scraping with the back of a hunting knife. + +Some people, of tender skin, are driven nearly frantic by these pests. +Others, of whom I am thankful to say I am one, get off comparatively +easy. In a particularly bad tick country, one generally appoints one of +the youngsters as “tick toto.” It is then his job in life to de-tick +any person or domestic animal requiring his services. His is a busy +existence. But though at first the nuisance is excessive, one becomes +accustomed to it in a remarkably short space of time. The adaptability +of the human being is nowhere better exemplified. After a time one gets +so that at night he can remove a marauding tick and cast it forth into +the darkness without even waking up. Fortunately ticks are local +in distribution. Often one may travel weeks or months without this +infliction. + +I was always interested and impressed to observe how indifferent the +wild animals seem to be to these insects. Zebra, rhinoceros and giraffe +seem to be especially good hosts. The loathsome creatures fasten +themselves in clusters wherever they can grip their fangs. Thus in +a tick country a zebra's ears, the lids and corners of his eyes, his +nostrils and lips, the soft skin between his legs and body, and between +his hind legs, and under his tail are always crusted with ticks as +thick as they can cling. One would think the drain on vitality would be +enormous, but the animals are always plump and in condition. The +same state of affairs obtains with the other two beasts named. The +hartebeeste also carries ticks but not nearly in the same abundance; +while such creatures as the waterbuck, impalla, gazelles and the smaller +bucks seem either to be absolutely free from the pests, or to have a +very few. Whether this is because such animals take the trouble to rid +themselves, or because they are more immune from attack it would be +difficult to say. I have found ticks clinging to the hair of lions, but +never fastened to the flesh. It is probable that they had been brushed +off from the grass in passing. Perhaps ticks do not like lions, +waterbuck, Tommies, et al., or perhaps only big coarse-grained common +brutes like zebra and rhinos will stand them at all. + + + + + +XX. DIVERS ADVENTURES ALONG THE TANA + +Late one afternoon I shot a wart-hog in the tall grass. The beast was an +unusually fine specimen, so I instructed Fundi and the porters to take +the head, and myself started for camp with Memba Sasa. I had gone not +over a hundred yards when I was recalled by wild and agonized appeals of +“Bwana! bwana!” The long-legged Fundi was repeatedly leaping straight +up in the air to an astonishing height above the long grass, curling +his legs up under him at each jump, and yelling like a steam-engine. +Returning promptly, I found that the wart-hog had come to life at the +first prick of the knife. He was engaged in charging back and forth in +an earnest effort to tusk Fundi, and the latter was jumping high in an +equally earnest effort to keep out of the way. Fortunately he proved +agile enough to do so until I planted another bullet in the aggressor. + +These wart-hogs are most comical brutes from whatever angle one views +them. They have a patriarchal, self-satisfied, suburban manner of +complete importance. The old gentleman bosses his harem outrageously, +and each and every member of the tribe walks about with short steps and +a stuffy parvenu small-town self-sufficiency. One is quite certain that +it is only by accident that they have long tusks and live in Africa, +instead of rubber-plants and self-made business and a pug-dog within +commuters' distance of New York. But at the slightest alarm this swollen +and puffy importance breaks down completely. Away they scurry, their +tails held stiffly and straightly perpendicular, their short legs +scrabbling the small stones in a frantic effort to go faster than nature +had intended them to go. Nor do they cease their flight at a reasonable +distance, but keep on going over hill and dale, until they fairly vanish +in the blue. I used to like starting them off this way, just for the +sake of contrast, and also for the sake of the delicious but impossible +vision of seeing their human prototypes do likewise. + +When a wart-hog is at home, he lives down a hole. Of course it has to +be a particularly large hole. He turns around and backs down it. No +more peculiar sight can be imagined than the sardonically toothsome +countenance of a wart-hog fading slowly in the dimness of a deep burrow, +a good deal like Alice's Cheshire Cat. Firing a revolver, preferably +with smoky black powder, just in front of the hole annoys the wart-hog +exceedingly. Out he comes full tilt, bent on damaging some one, and it +takes quick shooting to prevent his doing so. + +Once, many hundreds of miles south of the Tana, and many months later, +we were riding quite peaceably through the country, when we were +startled by the sound of a deep and continuous roaring in a small brush +patch to our left. We advanced cautiously to a prospective lion, only +to discover that the roaring proceeded from the depths of a wart-hog +burrow. The reverberation of our footsteps on the hollow ground had +alarmed him. He was a very nervous wart-hog. + +On another occasion, when returning to camp from a solitary walk, I saw +two wart-hogs before they saw me. I made no attempt to conceal myself, +but stood absolutely motionless. They fed slowly nearer and nearer until +at last they were not over twenty yards away. When finally they made +me out, their indignation and amazement and utter incredulity were very +funny. In fact, they did not believe in me at all for some few snorty +moments. Finally they departed, their absurd tails stiff upright. + + +One afternoon F. and I, hunting along one of the wide grass bottom +lands, caught sight of a herd of an especially fine impalla. The animals +were feeding about fifty yards the other side of a small solitary bush, +and the bush grew on the sloping bank of the slight depression +that represented the dry stream bottom. We could duck down into the +depression, sneak along it, come up back of the little bush, and shoot +from very close range. Leaving the gunbearers, we proceeded to do this. + +So quietly did we move that when we rose up back of the little bush a +lioness lying under it with her cub was as surprised as we were! + +Indeed, I do not think she knew what we were, for instead of attacking, +she leaped out the other side the bush, uttering a startled snarl. At +once she whirled to come at us, but the brief respite had allowed us +to recover our own scattered wits. As she turned I caught her broadside +through the heart. Although this shot knocked her down, F. immediately +followed it with another for safety's sake. We found that actually we +had just missed stepping on her tail! + +The cub we caught a glimpse of. He was about the size of a setter dog. +We tried hard to find him, but failed. The lioness was an unusually +large one, probably about as big as the female ever grows, measuring +nine feet six inches in length, and three feet eight inches tail at the +shoulder. + +Billy had her funny times housekeeping. The kitchen department never +quite ceased marvelling at her. Whenever she went to the cook-camp to +deliver her orders she was surrounded by an attentive and respectful +audience. One day, after holding forth for some time in Swahili, she +found that she had been standing hobnailed on one of the boy's feet. + +“Why, Mahomet!” she cried. “That must hurt you! Why didn't you tell me?” + +“Memsahib,” he smiled politely, “I think perhaps you move some time!” + +On another occasion she was trying to tell the cook, through Mahomet +as interpreter, that she wanted a tough old buffalo steak pounded, +boarding-house style. This evidently puzzled all hands. They turned +to in an earnest discussion of what it was all about, anyway. Billy +understood Swahili well enough at that time to gather that they could +not understand the Memsahib's wanting the meat “kibokoed”--FLOGGED. Was +it a religious rite, or a piece of revenge? They gave it up. + +“All right,” said Mahomet patiently at last. “He say he do it. WHICH ONE +IS IT?” + +Part of our supplies comprised tins of dehydrated fruit. One evening +Billy decided to have a grand celebration, so she passed out a +tin marked “rhubarb” and some cornstarch, together with suitable +instructions for a fruit pudding. In a little while the cook returned. + +“Nataka m'tund-I want fruit,” said he. + +Billy pointed out, severely, that he already had fruit. He went away +shaking his head. Evening and the pudding came. It looked good, and we +congratulated Billy on her culinary enterprise. Being hungry, we took +big mouthfuls. There followed splutterings and investigations. The +rhubarb can proved to be an old one containing heavy gun grease! + +When finally we parted with our faithful cook we bought him a really +wonderful many bladed knife as a present. On seeing it he slumped to the +ground-six feet of lofty dignity-and began to weep violently, rocking +back and forth in an excess of grief. + +“Why, what is it?” we inquired, alarmed. + +“Oh, Memsahib!” he wailed, the tears coursing down his cheeks, “I wanted +a watch!” + + +One morning about nine o'clock we were riding along at the edge of a +grass-grown savannah, with a low hill to our right and another about +four hundred yards ahead. Suddenly two rhinoceroses came to their feet +some fifty yards to our left out in the high grass, and stood looking +uncertainly in our direction. + +“Look out! Rhinos!” I warned instantly. + +“Why-why!” gasped Billy in an astonished tone of voice, “they have +manes!” + +In some concern for her sanity I glanced in her direction. She was +staring, not to her left, but straight ahead. I followed the direction +of her gaze, to see three lions moving across the face of the hill. + +Instantly we dropped off our horses. We wanted a shot at those +lions very much indeed, but were hampered in our efforts by the +two rhinoceroses, now stamping, snorting, and moving slowly in our +direction. The language we muttered was racy, but we dropped to a +kneeling position and opened fire on the disappearing lions. It was +most distinctly a case of divided attention, one eye on those menacing +rhinos, and one trying to attend to the always delicate operation of +aligning sights and signalling from a rather distracted brain just when +to pull the trigger. Our faithful gunbearers crouched by us, the heavy +guns ready. + +One rhino seemed either peaceable or stupid. He showed no inclination +either to attack or to depart, but was willing to back whatever play his +friend might decide on. The friend charged toward us until we began to +think he meant battle, stopped, thought a moment, and then, followed by +his companion, trotted slowly across our bows about eighty yards away, +while we continued our long range practice at the lions over their +backs. + +In this we were not winning many cigars. F. had a 280-calibre rifle +shooting the Ross cartridge through the much advertised grooveless oval +bore. It was little accurate beyond a hundred yards. Memba Sasa had +thrust the 405 into my hand, knowing it for the “lion gun,” and kept +just out of reach with the long-range Springfield. I had no time to +argue the matter with him. The 405 has a trajectory like a rainbow +at that distance, and I was guessing at it, and not making very good +guesses either. B. had his Springfield and made closer practice, finally +hitting a leg of one of the beasts. We saw him lift his paw and shake +it, but he did not move lamely afterward, so the damage was probably +confined to a simple scrape. It was a good shot anyway. Then they +disappeared over the top of the hill. + +We walked forward, regretting rhinos. Thirty yards ahead of me came a +thunderous and roaring growl, and a magnificent old lion reared his head +from a low bush. He evidently intended mischief, for I could see his +tail switching. However, B. had killed only one lion and I wanted very +much to give him the shot. Therefore, I held the front sight on the +middle of his chest, and uttered a fervent wish to myself that B. would +hurry up. In about ten seconds the muzzle of his rifle poked over my +shoulder, so I resigned the job. + +At B.'s shot the lion fell over, but was immediately up and trying to +get at us. Then we saw that his hind quarters were paralyzed. He was +a most magnificent sight as he reared his fine old head, roaring at us +full mouthed so that the very air trembled. Billy had a good look at a +lion in action. B. took up a commanding position on an ant hill to one +side with his rifle levelled. F. and I advanced slowly side by side. +At twelve feet from the wounded beast stopped, F. unlimbered the kodak, +while I held the bead of the 405 between the lion's eyes, ready to press +trigger at the first forward movement, however slight. Thus we took +several exposures in the two cameras. Unfortunately one of the cameras +fell in the river the next day. The other contained but one exposure. +While not so spectacular as some of those spoiled, it shows very well +the erect mane, the wicked narrowing of the eyes, the flattening of the +ears of an angry lion. You must imagine, furthermore, the deep rumbling +diapason of his growling. + +We backed away, and B. put in the finishing shot. The first bullet, +we then found, had penetrated the kidneys, thus inflicting a temporary +paralysis. + +When we came to skin him we found an old-fashioned lead bullet between +the bones of his right forepaw. The entrance wound had so entirely +healed over that hardly the trace of a scar remained. From what I know +of the character of these beasts, I have no doubt that this ancient +injury furnished the reason for his staying to attack us instead of +departing with the other three lions over the hill. + + +Following the course of the river, we one afternoon came around a bend +on a huge herd of mixed game that had been down to water. The river, +a quite impassable barrier lay to our right, and an equally impassable +precipitous ravine barred their flight ahead. They were forced to cross +our front, quite close, within the hundred yards. We stopped to watch +them go, a seemingly endless file of them, some very much frightened, +bounding spasmodically as though stung; others more philosophical, +loping easily and unconcernedly; still others to a few-even stopping for +a moment to get a good view of us. The very young creatures, as always, +bounced along absolutely stiff-legged, exactly like wooden animals +suspended by an elastic, touching the ground and rebounding high, +without a bend of the knee nor an apparent effort of the muscles. +Young animals seem to have to learn how to bend their legs for the most +efficient travel. The same is true of human babies as well. In this herd +were, we estimated, some four or five hundred beasts. + + +While hunting near the foothills I came across the body of a large eagle +suspended by one leg from the crotch of a limb. The bird's talon had +missed its grip, probably on alighting, the tarsus had slipped through +the crotch beyond the joint, the eagle had fallen forward, and had never +been able to flop itself back to an upright position! + + + + + +XXI. THE RHINOCEROS + +The rhinoceros is, with the giraffe, the hippopotamus, the gerenuk, and +the camel, one of Africa's unbelievable animals. Nobody has bettered +Kipling's description of him in the Just-so Stories: “A horn on his +nose, piggy eyes, and few manners.” He lives a self-centred life, +wrapped up in the porcine contentment that broods within nor looks +abroad over the land. When anything external to himself and his food +and drink penetrates to his intelligence he makes a flurried fool of +himself, rushing madly and frantically here and there in a hysterical +effort either to destroy or get away from the cause of disturbance. He +is the incarnation of a living and perpetual Grouch. + +Generally he lives by himself, sometimes with his spouse, more rarely +still with a third that is probably a grown-up son or daughter. I +personally have never seen more than three in company. Some observers +have reported larger bands, or rather collections, but, lacking other +evidence, I should be inclined to suspect that some circumstances of +food or water rather than a sense of gregariousness had attracted a +number of individuals to one locality. + +The rhinoceros has three objects in life: to fill his stomach with food +and water, to stand absolutely motionless under a bush, and to imitate +ant hills when he lies down in the tall grass. When disturbed at any +of these occupations he snorts. The snort sounds exactly as though the +safety valve of a locomotive had suddenly opened and as suddenly shut +again after two seconds of escaping steam. Then he puts his head down +and rushes madly in some direction, generally upwind. As he weighs +about two tons, and can, in spite of his appearance, get over the ground +nearly as fast as an ordinary horse, he is a truly imposing sight, +especially since the innocent bystander generally happens to be upwind, +and hence in the general path of progress. This is because the rhino's +scent is his keenest sense, and through it he becomes aware, in the +majority of times, of man's presence. His sight is very poor indeed; he +cannot see clearly even a moving object much beyond fifty yards. He can, +however, hear pretty well. + +The novice, then, is subjected to what he calls a “vicious charge” on +the part of the rhinoceros, merely because his scent was borne to the +beast from upwind, and the rhino naturally runs away upwind. He opens +fire, and has another thrilling adventure to relate. As a matter of +fact, if he had approached from the other side, and then aroused the +animal with a clod of earth, the beast would probably have “charged” + away in identically the same direction. I am convinced from a fairly +varied experience that this is the basis for most of the thrilling +experiences with rhinoceroses. + +But whatever the beast's first mental attitude, the danger is quite +real. In the beginning he rushes, upwind in instinctive reaction against +the strange scent. If he catches sight of the man at all, it must be +after he has approached to pretty close range, for only at close range +are the rhino's eyes effective. Then he is quite likely to finish what +was at first a blind dash by a genuine charge. Whether this is from +malice or from the panicky feeling that he is now too close to attempt +to get away, I never was able determine. It is probably in the majority +of cases the latter. This seems indicated by the fact that the rhino, if +avoided in his first rush, will generally charge right through and keep +on going. Occasionally, however, he will whirl and come back to the +attack. There can then be no doubt that he actually intends mischief. + +Nor must it be forgotten that with these animals, AS WITH ALL OTHERS, +not enough account is taken of individual variation. They, as well as +man, and as well as other animals, have their cowards, their fighters, +their slothful and their enterprising. And, too, there seem to be +truculent and peaceful districts. North of Mt. Kenia, between that peak +and the Northern Guaso Nyero River, we saw many rhinos, none of which +showed the slightest disposition to turn ugly. In fact, they were so +peaceful that they scrabbled off as fast as they could go every time +they either scented, heard, or SAW us; and in their flight they held +their noses up, not down. In the wide angle between the Tana and Thika +rivers, and comprising the Yatta Plains, and in the thickets of the +Tsavo, the rhinoceroses generally ran nose down in a position of attack +and were much inclined to let their angry passions master them at the +sight of man. Thus we never had our safari scattered by rhinoceroses +in the former district, while in the latter the boys were up trees six +times in the course of one morning! Carl Akeley, with a moving picture +machine, could not tease a charge out of a rhino in a dozen tries, while +Dugmore, in a different part of the country, was so chivied about that +he finally left the district to avoid killing any more of the brutes in +self-defence! + +The fact of the matter is that the rhinoceros is neither animated by the +implacable man-destroying passion ascribed to him by the amateur hunter, +nor is he so purposeless and haphazard in his rushes as some would have +us believe. On being disturbed his instinct is to get away. He generally +tries to get away in the direction of the disturbance, or upwind, as the +case may be. If he catches sight of the cause of disturbance he is apt +to try to trample and gore it, whatever it is. As his sight is short, +he will sometimes so inflict punishment on unoffending bushes. In doing +this he is probably not animated by a consuming destructive blind rage, +but by a naturally pugnacious desire to eliminate sources of annoyance. +Missing a definite object, he thunders right through and disappears +without trying again to discover what has aroused him. + +This first rush is not a charge in the sense that it is an attack on a +definite object. It may not, and probably will not, amount to a charge +at all, for the beast will blunder through without ever defining more +clearly the object of his blind dash. That dash is likely, however, at +any moment, to turn into a definite charge should the rhinoceros happen +to catch sight of his disturber. Whether the impelling motive would then +be a mistaken notion that on the part of the beast he was so close he +had to fight, or just plain malice, would not matter. At such times the +intended victim is not interested in the rhino's mental processes. + +Owing to his size, his powerful armament, and his incredible quickness +the rhinoceros is a dangerous animal at all times, to be treated with +respect and due caution. This is proved by the number of white men, +out of a sparse population, that are annually tossed and killed by the +brutes, and by the promptness with which the natives take to trees-thorn +trees at that!-when the cry of faru! is raised. As he comes rushing in +your direction, head down and long weapon pointed, tail rigidly erect, +ears up, the earth trembling with his tread and the air with his snorts, +you suddenly feel very small and ineffective. + +If you keep cool, however, it is probable that the encounter will +result only in a lot of mental perturbation for the rhino and a bit +of excitement for yourself. If there is any cover you should duck down +behind it and move rapidly but quietly to one side or another of the +line of advance. If there is no cover, you should crouch low and hold +still. The chances are he will pass to one side or the other of you, and +go snorting away into the distance. Keep your eye on him very closely. +If he swerves definitely in your direction, AND DROPS HIS HEAD A LITTLE +LOWER, it would be just as well to open fire. Provided the beast was +still far enough away to give me “sea-room,” I used to put a small +bullet in the flesh of the outer part of the shoulder. The wound thus +inflicted was not at all serious, but the shock of the bullet usually +turned the beast. This was generally in the direction of the wounded +shoulder, which would indicate that the brute turned toward the apparent +source of the attack, probably for the purpose of getting even. At +any rate, the shot turned the rush to one side, and the rhinoceros, as +usual, went right on through. If, however, he seemed to mean business, +or was too close for comfort, the point to aim for was the neck just +above the lowered horn. + +In my own experience I came to establish a “dead line” about twenty +yards from myself. That seemed to be as near as I cared to let the +brutes come. Up to that point I let them alone on the chance that they +might swerve or change their minds, as they often did. But inside of +twenty yards, whether the rhinoceros meant to charge me, or was merely +running blindly by, did not particularly matter. Even in the latter case +he might happen to catch sight of me and change his mind. Thus, +looking over my notebook records, I find that I was “charged” forty odd +times-that is to say, the rhinoceros rushed in my general direction. Of +this lot I can be sure of but three, and possibly four, that certainly +meant mischief. Six more came so directly at us, and continued so to +come, that in spite of ourselves we were compelled to kill them. The +rest were successfully dodged. + +As I have heard old hunters of many times my experience, affirm that +only in a few instances have they themselves been charged indubitably +and with malice aforethought, it might be well to detail my reasons for +believing myself definitely and not blindly attacked. + +The first instance was that when B. killed his second trophy rhinoceros. +The beast's companion refused to leave the dead body for a long time, +but finally withdrew. On our approaching, however, and after we had +been some moments occupied with the trophy, it returned and charged +viciously. It was finally killed at fifteen yards. + +The second instance was of a rhinoceros that got up from the grass +sixty yards away, and came headlong in my direction. At the moment I +was standing on the edge of a narrow eroded ravine, ten feet deep, with +perpendicular sides. The rhinoceros came on bravely to the edge of this +ravine-and stopped. Then he gave an exhibition of unmitigated bad temper +most amusing to contemplate-from my safe position. He snorted, and +stamped, and pawed the earth, and tramped up and down at a great rate. +I sat on the opposite bank and laughed at him. This did not please him +a bit, but after many short rushes to the edge of the ravine, he gave +it up and departed slowly, his tail very erect and rigid. From the +persistency with which he tried to get at me, I cannot but think he +intended something of the sort from the first. + +The third instance was much more aggravating. In company with Memba Sasa +and Fundi I left camp early one morning to get a waterbuck. Four or five +hundred yards out, however, we came on fresh buffalo signs, not an hour +old. To one who knew anything of buffaloes' habits this seemed like an +excellent chance, for at this time of the morning they should be feeding +not far away preparatory to seeking cover for the day. Therefore we +immediately took up the trail. + +It led us over hills, through valleys, high grass, burned country, +brush, thin scrub, and small woodland alternately. Unfortunately we had +happened on these buffalo just as they were about changing district, and +they were therefore travelling steadily. At times the trail was easy to +follow and at other times we had to cast about very diligently to +find traces of the direction even such huge animals had taken. It was +interesting work, however, and we drew on steadily, keeping a sharp +lookout ahead in case the buffalo had come to a halt in some shady +thicket out of the sun. As the latter ascended the heavens and the +scorching heat increased, our confidence in nearing our quarry +ascended likewise, for we knew that buffaloes do not like great heat. +Nevertheless this band continued straight on its way. I think now they +must have got scent of our camp, and had therefore decided to move to +one of the alternate and widely separated feeding grounds every herd +keeps in its habitat. Only at noon, and after six hours of steady +trailing, covering perhaps a dozen miles, did we catch them up. + +From the start we had been bothered with rhinoceroses. Five times did +we encounter them, standing almost squarely on the line of the spoor we +were following. Then we had to make a wide quiet circle to leeward in +order to avoid disturbing them, and were forced to a very minute search +in order to pick up the buffalo tracks again on the other side. This was +at once an anxiety and a delay, and we did not love those rhino. + +Finally, at the very edge of the Yatta Plains we overtook the herd, +resting for noon in a scattered thicket. Leaving Fundi, I, with Memba +Sasa, stalked down to them. We crawled and crept by inches flat to the +ground, which was so hot that it fairly burned the hand. The sun beat +down on us fiercely, and the air was close and heavy even among the +scanty grass tufts in which we were trying to get cover. It was very +hard work indeed, but after a half hour of it we gained a thin bush not +over thirty yards from a half dozen dark and indeterminate bodies dozing +in the very centre of a brush patch. Cautiously I wiped the sweat +from my eyes and raised my glasses. It was slow work and patient work, +picking out and examining each individual beast from the mass. Finally +the job was done. I let fall my glasses. + +“Monumookee y'otey-all cows,” I whispered to Memba Sasa. + +We backed out of there inch by inch, with intention of circling a short +distance to the leeward, and then trying the herd again lower down. But +some awkward slight movement, probably on my part, caught the eye of +one of those blessed cows. She threw up her head; instantly the whole +thicket seemed alive with beasts. We could hear them crashing and +stamping, breaking the brush, rushing headlong and stopping again; we +could even catch momentary glimpses of dark bodies. After a few minutes +we saw the mass of the herd emerge from the thicket five hundred yards +away and flow up over the hill. There were probably a hundred and fifty +of them, and, looking through my glasses, I saw among them two fine old +bulls. They were of course not much alarmed, as only the one cow knew +what it was all about anyway, and I suspected they would stop at the +next thicket. + +We had only one small canteen of water with us, but we divided that. It +probably did us good, but the quantity was not sufficient to touch our +thirst. For the remainder of the day we suffered rather severely, as the +sun was fierce. + +After a short interval we followed on after the buffaloes. Within a half +mile beyond the crest of the hill over which they had disappeared +was another thicket. At the very edge of the thicket, asleep under an +outlying bush, stood one of the big bulls! + +Luck seemed with us at last. The wind was right, and between us and the +bull lay only four hundred yards of knee-high grass. All we had to +do was to get down on our hands and knees, and, without further +precautions, crawl up within range and pot him. That meant only a bit of +hard, hot work. + +When we were about halfway a rhinoceros suddenly arose from the grass +between us and the buffalo, and about one hundred yards away. + +What had aroused him, at that distance and upwind, I do not know. It +hardly seemed possible that he could have heard us, for we were moving +very quietly, and, as I say, we were downwind. However, there he was +on his feet, sniffing now this way, now that, in search for what had +alarmed him. We sank out of sight and lay low, fully expecting that the +brute would make off. + +For just twenty-five minutes by the watch that rhinoceros looked and +looked deliberately in all directions while we lay hidden waiting for +him to get over it. Sometimes he would start off quite confidently for +fifty or sixty yards, so that we thought at last we were rid of him, but +always he returned to the exact spot where we had first seen him, +there to stamp, and blow. The buffalo paid no attention to these +manifestations. I suppose everybody in jungleland is accustomed to +rhinoceros bad temper over nothing. Twice he came in our direction, but +both times gave it up after advancing twenty-five yards or so. We lay +flat on our faces, the vertical sun slowly roasting us, and cursed that +rhino. + +Now the significance of this incident is twofold: first, the fact that, +instead of rushing off at the first intimation of our presence, as would +the average rhino, he went methodically to work to find us; second, that +he displayed such remarkable perseverance as to keep at it nearly a +half hour. This was a spirit quite at variance with that finding its +expression in the blind rush or in the sudden passionate attack. From +that point of view it seems to me that the interest and significance of +the incident can hardly be overstated. + +Four or five times we thought ourselves freed of the nuisance, but +always, just as we were about to move on, back he came, as eager as ever +to nose us out. Finally he gave it up, and, at a slow trot, started to +go away from there. And out of the three hundred and sixty degrees of +the circle where he might have gone he selected just our direction. Note +that this was downwind for him, and that rhinoceroses usually escape +upwind. + +We laid very low, hoping that, as before, he would change his mind as to +direction. But now he was no longer looking, but travelling. Nearer +and nearer he came. We could see plainly his little eyes, and hear +the regular swish, swish, swish of his thick legs brushing through the +grass. The regularity of his trot never varied, but to me lying there +directly in his path, he seemed to be coming on altogether too fast +for comfort. From our low level he looked as big as a barn. Memba Sasa +touched me lightly on the leg. I hated to shoot, but finally when he +loomed fairly over us I saw it must be now or never. If I allowed him to +come closer, he must indubitably catch the first movement of my gun +and so charge right on us before I would have time to deliver even an +ineffective shot. Therefore, most reluctantly, I placed the ivory bead +of the great Holland gun just to the point of his shoulder and pulled +the trigger. So close was he that as he toppled forward I instinctively, +though unnecessarily of course, shrank back as though he might fall on +me. Fortunately I had picked my spot properly, and no second shot was +necessary. He fell just twenty-seven feet-nine yards--from where we lay! + +The buffalo vanished into the blue. We were left with a dead rhino, +which we did not want, twelve miles from camp, and no water. It was +a hard hike back, but we made it finally, though nearly perished from +thirst. + +This beast, be it noted, did not charge us at all, but I consider him +as one of the three undoubtedly animated by hostile intentions. Of the +others I can, at this moment, remember five that might or might not have +been actually and maliciously charging when they were killed or dodged. +I am no mind reader for rhinoceros. Also I am willing to believe in +their entirely altruistic intentions. Only, if they want to get the +practical results of their said altruistic intentions they must really +refrain from coming straight at me nearer than twenty yards. It has been +stated that if one stands perfectly still until the rhinoceros is just +six feet away, and then jumps sideways, the beast will pass him. I never +happened to meet anybody who had acted on this theory. I suppose that +such exist: though I doubt if any persistent exponent of the art is +likely to exist long. Personally I like my own method, and stoutly +maintain that within twenty yards it is up to the rhinoceros to begin to +do the dodging. + + + + + +XXII. THE RHINOCEROS-(continued) + +At first the traveller is pleased and curious over rhinoceros. After he +has seen and encountered eight or ten, he begins to look upon them as +an unmitigated nuisance. By the time he has done a week in thick +rhino-infested scrub he gets fairly to hating them. + +They are bad enough in the open plains, where they can be seen and +avoided, but in the tall grass or the scrub they are a continuous +anxiety. No cover seems small enough to reveal them. Often they will +stand or lie absolutely immobile until you are within a very short +distance, and then will outrageously break out. They are, in spite of +their clumsy build, as quick and active as polo ponies, and are the +only beasts I know of capable of leaping into full speed ahead from a +recumbent position. In thorn scrub they are the worst, for there, no +matter how alert the traveller may hold himself, he is likely to come +around a bush smack on one. And a dozen times a day the throat-stopping, +abrupt crash and smash to right or left brings him up all standing, his +heart racing, the blood pounding through his veins. It is jumpy work, +and is very hard on the temper. In the natural reaction from being +startled into fits one snaps back to profanity. The cumulative effects +of the epithets hurled after a departing and inconsiderately hasty +rhinoceros may have done something toward ruining the temper of the +species. It does not matter whether or not the individual beast proves +dangerous; he is inevitably most startling. I have come in at night +with my eyes fairly aching from spying for rhinos during a day's journey +through high grass. + +And, as a friend remarked, rhinos are such a mussy death. One poor chap, +killed while we were away on our first trip, could not be moved from +the spot where he had been trampled. A few shovelfuls of earth over the +remains was all the rhinoceros had left possible. + +Fortunately, in the thick stuff especially, it is often possible to +avoid the chance rhinoceros through the warning given by the rhinoceros +birds. These are birds about the size of a robin that accompany the +beast everywhere. They sit in a row along his back occupying themselves +with ticks and a good place to roost. Always they are peaceful and quiet +until a human being approaches. Then they flutter a few feet into the +air uttering a peculiar rapid chattering. Writers with more sentiment +than sense of proportion assure us that this warns the rhinoceros of +approaching danger! On the contrary, I always looked at it the other +way. The rhinoceros birds thereby warned ME of danger, and I was duly +thankful. + +The safari boys stand quite justly in a holy awe of the rhino. The +safari is strung out over a mile or two of country, as a usual thing, +and a downwind rhino is sure to pierce some part of the line in his +rush. Then down go the loads with a smash, and up the nearest trees +swarm the boys. Usually their refuges are thorn trees, armed, even on +the main trunk, with long sharp spikes. There is no difficulty in going +up, but the gingerly coming down, after all the excitement has died, is +a matter of deliberation and of voices uplifted in woe. Cuninghame tells +of an inadequate slender and springy, but solitary, sapling into which +swarmed half his safari on the advent of a rambunctious rhino. The tree +swayed and bent and cracked alarmingly, threatening to dump the whole +lot on the ground. At each crack the boys yelled. This attracted the +rhinoceros, which immediately charged the tree full tilt. He hit square, +the tree shivered and creaked, the boys wound their arms and legs around +the slender support and howled frantically. Again and again rhinoceros +drew back to repeat his butting of that tree. By the time Cuninghame +reached the spot, the tree, with its despairing burden of black birds, +was clinging to the soil by its last remaining roots. + +In the Nairobi Club I met a gentleman with one arm gone at the shoulder. +He told his story in a slightly bored and drawling voice, picking +his words very carefully, and evidently most occupied with neither +understating nor overstating the case. It seems he had been out, and had +killed some sort of a buck. While his men were occupied with this, he +strolled on alone to see what he could find. He found a rhinoceros, that +charged viciously, and into which he emptied his gun. + +“When I came to,” he said, “it was just coming on dusk, and the lions +were beginning to grunt. My arm was completely crushed, and I was badly +bruised and knocked about. As near as I could remember I was fully ten +miles from camp. A circle of carrion birds stood all about me not more +than ten feet away, and a great many others were flapping over me and +fighting in the air. These last were so close that I could feel the wind +from their wings. It was rawther gruesome.” He paused and thought a a +moment, as though weighing his words. “In fact,” he added with an air of +final conviction, “it was QUITE gruesome!” + +The most calm and imperturbable rhinoceros I ever saw was one that made +us a call on the Thika River. It was just noon, and our boys were making +camp after a morning's march. The usual racket was on, and the usual +varied movement of rather confused industry. Suddenly silence fell. +We came out of the tent to see the safari gazing spellbound in one +direction. There was a rhinoceros wandering peaceably over the little +knoll back of camp, and headed exactly in our direction. While we +watched, he strolled through the edge of camp, descended the steep bank +to the river's edge, drank, climbed the bank, strolled through camp +again and departed over the hill. To us he paid not the slightest +attention. It seems impossible to believe that he neither scented nor +saw any evidences of human life in all that populated flat, especially +when one considers how often these beasts will SEEM to become aware of +man's presence by telepathy.* Perhaps he was the one exception to the +whole race, and was a good-natured rhino. + + * Opposing theories are those of “instinct,” and of slight + causes, such a grasshoppers leaping before the hunter's + feet, not noticed by the man approaching. + +The babies are astonishing and amusing creatures, with blunt noses on +which the horns are just beginning to form, and with even fewer manners +than their parents. The mere fact of an 800-pound baby does not cease +to be curious. They are truculent little creatures, and sometimes rather +hard to avoid when they get on the warpath. Generally, as far as my +observation goes, the mother gives birth to but one at a time. There may +be occasional twin births, but I happen never to have met so interesting +a family. + +Rhinoceroses are still very numerous-too numerous. I have seen as many +as fourteen in two hours, and probably could have found as many more +if I had been searching for them. There is no doubt, however, that this +species must be the first to disappear of the larger African animals. +His great size combined with his 'orrid 'abits mark him for early +destruction. No such dangerous lunatic can be allowed at large in a +settled country, nor in a country where men are travelling constantly. +The species will probably be preserved in appropriate restricted +areas. It would be a great pity to have so perfect an example of the +Prehistoric Pinhead wiped out completely. Elsewhere he will diminish, +and finally disappear. + +For one thing, and for one thing only, is the traveller indebted to the +rhinoceros. The beast is lazy, large, and has an excellent eye for easy +ways through. For this reason, as regards the question of good roads, he +combines the excellent qualities of Public Sentiment, the Steam Roller, +and the Expert Engineer. Through thorn thickets impenetrable to anything +less armoured than a Dreadnaught like himself he clears excellent +paths. Down and out of eroded ravines with perpendicular sides he makes +excellent wide trails, tramped hard, on easy grades, often with zigzags +to ease the slant. In some of the high country where the torrential +rains wash hundreds of such gullies across the line of march it +is hardly an exaggeration to say that travel would be practically +impossible without the rhino trails wherewith to cross. Sometimes the +perpendicular banks will extend for miles without offering any natural +break down to the stream-bed. Since this is so I respectfully submit to +Government the following proposal: + +(a) That a limited number of these beasts shall be licensed as Trail +Rhinos; and that all the rest shall be killed from the settled and +regularly travelled districts. + +(b) That these Trail Rhinos shall be suitably hobbled by short steel +chains. + +(c) That each Trail Rhino shall carry painted conspicuously on his side +his serial number. + +(d) That as a further precaution for public safety each Trail Rhino +shall carry firmly attached to his tail a suitable red warning flag. +Thus the well-known habit of the rhinoceros of elevating his tail +rigidly when about to charge, or when in the act of charging, will fly +the flag as a warning to travellers. + +(e) That an official shall be appointed to be known as the Inspector of +Rhinos whose duty it shall be to examine the hobbles, numbers and flags +of all Trail Rhinos, and to keep the same in due working order and +repair. + +And I do submit to all and sundry that the above resolutions have as +much sense to them as have most of the petitions submitted to Government +by settlers in a new country. + + + + + +XXIII. THE HIPPO POOL + +For a number of days we camped in a grove just above a dense jungle +and not fifty paces from the bank of a deep and wide river. We could +at various points push through light low undergrowth, or stoop beneath +clear limbs, or emerge on tiny open banks and promontories to look out +over the width of the stream. The river here was some three or four +hundred feet wide. It cascaded down through various large boulders and +sluiceways to fall bubbling and boiling into deep water; it then flowed +still and sluggish for nearly a half mile and finally divided into +channels around a number of wooded islands of different sizes. In the +long still stretch dwelt about sixty hippopotamuses of all sizes. + +During our stay these hippos led a life of alarmed and angry care. +When we first arrived they were distributed picturesquely on banks or +sandbars, or were lying in midstream. At once they disappeared under +water. By the end of four or five minutes they began to come to the +surface. Each beast took one disgusted look, snorted, and sank again. +So hasty was his action that he did not even take time to get a full +breath; consequently up he had to come in not more than two minutes, +this time. The third submersion lasted less than a minute; and at the +end of half hour of yelling we had the hippos alternating between the +bottom of the river and the surface of the water about as fast as they +could make a round trip, blowing like porpoises. It was a comical sight. +And as some of the boys were always out watching the show, those hippos +had no respite during the daylight hours. From a short distance inland +the explosive blowing as they came to the surface sounded like the +irregular exhaust of a steam-engine. + +We camped at this spot four days; and never, in that length of time, +during the daytime, did those hippopotamuses take any recreation and +rest. To be sure after a little they calmed down sufficiently to remain +on the surface for a half minute or so, instead of gasping a mouthful of +air and plunging below at once; but below was where they considered they +belonged most of the time. We got to recognize certain individuals. They +would stare at us fixedly for a while; and then would glump down out of +sight like submarines. + +When I saw them thus floating with only the very top of the head and +snout out of water, I for the first time appreciated why the Greeks had +named them hippopotamuses-the river horses. With the heavy jowl hidden; +and the prominent nostrils, the long reverse-curved nose, the wide eyes, +and the little pointed ears alone visible, they resembled more than +a little that sort of conventionalized and noble charger seen on the +frieze of the Parthenon, or in the prancy paintings of the Renaissance. + +There were hippopotamuses of all sizes and of all colours. The +little ones, not bigger than a grand piano, were of flesh pink. Those +half-grown were mottled with pink and black in blotches. The adults were +almost invariably all dark, though a few of them retained still a small +pink spot or so-a sort of persistence in mature years of the eternal +boy-, I suppose. All were very sleek and shiny with the wet; and they +had a fashion of suddenly and violently wiggling one or the other or +both of their little ears in ridiculous contrast to the fixed stare of +their bung eyes. Generally they had nothing to say as to the situation, +though occasionally some exasperated old codger would utter a grumbling +bellow. + +The ground vegetation for a good quarter mile from the river bank +was entirely destroyed, and the earth beaten and packed hard by these +animals. Landing trails had been made leading out from the water by easy +and regular grades. These trails were about two feet wide and worn a +foot or so deep. They differed from the rhino trails, from which they +could be easily distinguished, in that they showed distinctly two +parallel tracks separated from each other by a slight ridge. In other +words, the hippo waddles. These trails we found as far as four and +five miles inland. They were used, of course, only at night; and led +invariably to lush and heavy feed. While we were encamped there, the +country on our side the river was not used by our particular herd of +hippos. One night, however, we were awakened by a tremendous rending +crash of breaking bushes, followed by an instant's silence and then the +outbreak of a babel of voices. Then we heard a prolonged sw-i-sh-sh-sh, +exactly like the launching of a big boat. A hippo had blundered out the +wrong side the river, and fairly into our camp. + +In rivers such as the Tana these great beasts are most extraordinarily +abundant. Directly in front of our camp, for example, were three +separate herds which contained respectively about sixty, forty, and +twenty-five head. Within two miles below camp were three other big pools +each with its population; while a walk of a mile above showed about as +many more. This sort of thing obtained for practically the whole length +of the river-hundreds of miles. Furthermore, every little tributary +stream, no matter how small, provided it can muster a pool or so deep +enough to submerge so large an animal, has its faithful band. I have +known of a hippo quite happily occupying a ditch pool ten feet wide and +fifteen feet long. There was literally not room enough for the beast to +turn around; he had to go in at one end and out at the other! Each lake, +too, is alive with them; and both lakes and rivers are many. + +Nobody disturbs hippos, save for trophies and an occasional supply of +meat for the men or of cooking fat for the kitchen. Therefore they wax +fat and sassy, and will long continue to flourish in the land. + +It takes time to kill a hippo, provided one is wanted. The mark is +small, and generally it is impossible to tell whether or not the bullet +has reached the brain. Harmed or whole the beast sinks anyway. Some +hours later the distention of the stomach will float the body. Therefore +the only decent way to do is to take the shot, and then wait a half +day to see whether or not you have missed. There are always plenty of +volunteers in camp to watch the pool, for the boys are extravagantly +fond of hippo meat. Then it is necessary to manoeuvre a rope on the +carcass, often a matter of great difficulty, for the other hippos bellow +and snort and try to live up to the circus posters of the Blood-sweating +Behemoth of Holy Writ, and the crocodiles like dark meat very much. +Usually one offers especial reward to volunteers, and shoots into the +water to frighten the beasts. The volunteer dashes rapidly across the +shallows, makes a swift plunge, and clambers out on the floating body as +onto a raft. + +Then he makes fast the rope, and everybody tails on and tows the whole +outfit ashore. On one occasion the volunteer produced a fish line and +actually caught a small fish from the floating carcass! This sounds like +a good one; but I saw it with my own two eyes. + +It was at the hippo pool camp that we first became acquainted with Funny +Face. + +Funny Face was the smallest, furriest little monkey you ever saw. I +never cared for monkeys before; but this one was altogether engaging. He +had thick soft fur almost like that on a Persian cat, and a tiny human +black face, and hands that emerged from a ruff; and he was about as big +as old-fashioned dolls used to be before they began to try to imitate +real babies with them. That is to say, he was that big when we said +farewell to him. When we first knew him, had he stood in a half pint +measure he could just have seen over the rim. We caught him in a little +thorn ravine all by himself, a fact that perhaps indicates that his +mother had been killed, or perhaps that he, like a good little Funny +Face, was merely staying where he was told while she was away. At any +rate he fought savagely, according to his small powers. We took him +ignominiously by the scruff of the neck, haled him to camp, and dumped +him down on Billy. Billy constructed him a beautiful belt by sacrificing +part of a kodak strap (mine), and tied him to a chop box filled with dry +grass. Thenceforth this became Funny Face's castle, at home and on the +march. + +Within a few hours his confidence in life was restored. He accepted +small articles of food from our hands, eyeing us intently, retired and +examined them. As they all proved desirable, he rapidly came to the +conclusion that these new large strange monkeys, while not so beautiful +and agile as his own people, were nevertheless a good sort after all. +Therefore he took us into his confidence. By next day he was quite +tame, would submit to being picked up without struggling, and had ceased +trying to take an end off our various fingers. In fact when the finger +was presented, he would seize it in both small black hands; convey it +to his mouth; give it several mild and gentle love-chews; and then, +clasping it with all four hands, would draw himself up like a little +athlete and seat himself upright on the outspread palm. Thence he would +survey the world, wrinkling up his tiny brow. + +This chastened and scholarly attitude of mind lasted for four or five +days. Then Funny Face concluded that he understood all about it, had +settled satisfactorily to himself all the problems of the world and +his relations to it, and had arrived at a good working basis for life. +Therefore these questions ceased to occupy him. He dismissed them from +his mind completely, and gave himself over to light-hearted frivolity. + +His disposition was flighty but full of elusive charm. You deprecated +his lack of serious purpose in life, disapproved heartily of his +irresponsibility, but you fell to his engaging qualities. He was a +typical example of the lovable good-for-naught. Nothing retained his +attention for two consecutive minutes. If he seized a nut and started +for his chop box with it, the chances were he would drop it and forget +all about it in the interest excited by a crawling ant or the colour of +a flower. His elfish face was always alight with the play of emotions +and of flashing changing interests. He was greatly given to starting off +on very important errands, which he forgot before he arrived. + +In this he contrasted strangely with his friend Darwin. Darwin was +another monkey of the same species, caught about a week later. Darwin's +face was sober and pondering, and his methods direct and effective. No +side excursions into the brilliant though evanescent fields of fancy +diverted him from his ends. These were, generally, to get the most and +best food and the warmest corner for sleep. When he had acquired a nut, +a kernel of corn, or a piece of fruit, he sat him down and examined it +thoroughly and conscientiously and then, conscientiously and thoroughly, +he devoured it. No extraneous interest could distract his attention; not +for a moment. That he had sounded the seriousness of life is proved by +the fact that he had observed and understood the flighty character +of Funny Face. When Funny Face acquired a titbit, Darwin took up a +hump-backed position near at hand, his bright little eyes fixed on his +friend's activities. Funny Face would nibble relishingly at his prune +for a moment or so; then an altogether astonishing butterfly would +flitter by just overhead. Funny Face, lost in ecstasy would gaze skyward +after the departing marvel. This was Darwin's opportunity. In two +hops he was at Funny Face's side. With great deliberation, but most +businesslike directness, Darwin disengaged Funny Face's unresisting +fingers from the prune, seized it, and retired. Funny Face never +knew it; his soul was far away after the blazoned wonder, and when it +returned, it was not to prunes at all. They were forgotten, and his +wandering eye focussed back to a bright button in the grass. Thus by +strict attention to business did Darwin prosper. + +Darwin's attitude was always serious, and his expression grave. When he +condescended to romp with Funny Face one could see that it was not for +the mere joy of sport, but for the purposes of relaxation. If offered +a gift he always examined it seriously before finally accepting it, +turning it over and over in his hands, and considering it with wrinkled +brow. If you offered anything to Funny Face, no matter what, he dashed +up, seized it on the fly, departed at speed uttering grateful low +chatterings; probably dropped and forgot it in the excitement of +something new before he had even looked to see what it was. + +“These people,” said Darwin to himself, “on the whole, and as an +average, seem to give me appropriate and pleasing gifts. To be sure, it +is always well to see that they don't try to bunco me with olive stones +or such worthless trash, but still I believe they are worth cultivating +and standing in with.” + +“It strikes me,” observed Funny Face to himself, “that my adorable +Memsahib and my beloved bwana have been very kind to me to-day, though I +don't remember precisely how. But I certainly do love them!” + +We cut good sized holes on each of the four sides of their chop box to +afford them ventilation on the march. The box was always carried on one +of the safari boy's heads: and Funny Face and Darwin gazed forth with +great interest. It was very amusing to see the big negro striding +jauntily along under his light burden; the large brown winking eyes +glued to two of the apertures. When we arrived in camp and threw the +box cover open, they hopped forth, shook themselves, examined their +immediate surroundings and proceeded to take a little exercise. When +anything alarmed them, such as the shadow of a passing hawk, they +skittered madly up the nearest thing in sight-tent pole, tree, or human +form-- and scolded indignantly or chittered in a low tone according to +the degree of their terror. When Funny Face was very young, indeed, the +grass near camp caught fire. After the excitement was over we found him +completely buried in the straw of his box, crouched, and whimpering like +a child. As he could hardly, at his tender age, have had any previous +experience with fire, this instinctive fear was to me very interesting. + +The monkeys had only one genuine enemy. That was an innocent plush +lion named Little Simba. It had been given us in joke before we left +California, we had tucked it into an odd corner of our trunk, had +discovered it there, carried it on safari out of sheer idleness, and +lo! it had become an important member of the expedition. Every morning +Mahomet or Yusuf packed it-or rather him-carefully away in the tin box. +Promptly at the end of the day's march Little Simba was haled forth +and set in a place of honour in the centre of the table, and reigned +there-or sometimes in a little grass jungle constructed by his faithful +servitors-until the march was again resumed. His job in life was to look +after our hunting luck. When he failed to get us what we wanted, he was +punished; when he procured us what we desired he was rewarded by having +his tail sewed on afresh, or by being presented with new black thread +whiskers, or even a tiny blanket of Mericani against the cold. This +last was an especial favour for finally getting us the greater kudu. +Naturally as we did all this in the spirit of an idle joke our rewards +and punishments were rather desultory. To our surprise, however, we soon +found that our boys took Little Simba quite seriously. He was a fetish, +a little god, a power of good or bad luck. We did not appreciate this +point until one evening, after a rather disappointing day, Mahomet came +to us bearing Little Simba in his hand. + +“Bwana,” said he respectfully, “is it enough that I shut Simba in the +tin box, or do you wish to flog him?” + +On one very disgraceful occasion, when everything went wrong, we +plucked Little Simba from his high throne and with him made a beautiful +drop-kick out into the tall grass. There, in a loud tone of voice, we +sternly bade him lie until the morrow. The camp was bung-eyed. It is not +given to every people to treat its gods in such fashion: indeed, in +very deed, great is the white man! To be fair, having published Little +Simba's disgrace, we should publish also Little Simba's triumph: to +tell how, at the end of a certain very lucky three months' safari he was +perched atop a pole and carried into town triumphantly at the head of +a howling, singing procession of a hundred men. He returned to America, +and now, having retired from active professional life, is leading an +honoured old age among the trophies he helped to procure. + +Funny Face first met Little Simba when on an early investigating tour. +With considerable difficulty he had shinnied up the table leg, and had +hoisted himself over the awkwardly projecting table edge. When almost +within reach of the fascinating affairs displayed atop, he looked +straight up into the face of Little Simba! Funny Face shrieked aloud, +let go all holds and fell off flat on his back. Recovering immediately, +he climbed just as high as he could, and proceeded, during the next +hour, to relieve his feelings by the most insulting chatterings and +grimaces. He never recovered from this initial experience. All that was +necessary to evoke all sorts of monkey talk was to produce Little Simba. +Against his benign plush front then broke a storm of remonstrance. +He became the object of slow advances and sudden scurrying, shrieking +retreats, that lasted just as long as he stayed there, and never got any +farther than a certain quite conservative point. Little Simba did not +mind. He was too busy being a god. + + + + + +XXIV. BUFFALO + +The Cape Buffalo is one of the four dangerous kinds of African big game; +of which the other three are the lion, the rhinoceros, and the elephant. +These latter are familiar to us in zoological gardens, although the +African and larger form of the rhinoceros and elephant are seldom or +never seen in captivity. But buffaloes are as yet unrepresented in our +living collections. They are huge beasts, tremendous from any point +of view, whether considered in height, in mass, or in power. At the +shoulder they stand from just under five feet to just under six feet in +height; they are short legged, heavy bodied bull necked, thick in every +dimension. In colour they are black as to hair, and slate gray as to +skin; so that the individual impression depends on the thickness of the +coat. They wear their horns parted in the middle, sweeping smoothly away +in the curves of two great bosses either side the head. A good trophy +will measure in spread from forty inches to four feet. Four men will +be required to carry in the head alone. As buffaloes when disturbed or +suspicious have a habit of thrusting their noses up and forward, that +position will cling to one's memory as the most typical of the species. + +A great many hunters rank the buffalo first among the dangerous beasts. +This is not my own opinion, but he is certainly dangerous enough. He +possesses the size, power, and truculence of the rhinoceros, together +with all that animal's keenness of scent and hearing but with a +sharpness of vision the rhinoceros has not. While not as clever as +either the lion or the elephant, he is tricky enough when angered to +circle back for the purpose of attacking his pursuers in the rear or +flank, and to arrange rather ingenious ambushes for the same purpose. +He is rather more tenacious of life than the rhinoceros, and will +carry away an extraordinary quantity of big bullets. Add to these +considerations the facts that buffaloes go in herds; and that, barring +luck, chances are about even they will have to be followed into the +thickest cover, it can readily be seen that their pursuit is exciting. + +The problem would be simplified were one able or willing to slip into +the thicket or up to the grazing herd and kill the nearest beast that +offers. As a matter of fact an ordinary herd will contain only two or +three bulls worth shooting; and it is the hunter's delicate task to +glide and crawl here and there, with due regard for sight, scent and +sound, until he has picked one of these from the scores of undesirables. +Many times will he worm his way by inches toward the great black bodies +half defined in the screen of thick undergrowth only to find that he has +stalked cows or small bulls. Then inch by inch he must back out again, +unable to see twenty yards to either side, guiding himself by the +probabilities of the faint chance breezes in the thicket. To right and +left he hears the quiet continued crop, crop, crop, sound of animals +grazing. The sweat runs down his face in streams, and blinds his eyes, +but only occasionally and with the utmost caution can he raise his +hand-or, better, lower his head-to clear his vision. When at last he has +withdrawn from the danger zone, he wipes his face, takes a drink from +the canteen, and tries again. Sooner or later his presence comes to the +notice of some old cow. Behind the leafy screen where unsuspected she +has been standing comes the most unexpected and heart-jumping crash! +Instantly the jungle all about roars into life. The great bodies of the +alarmed beasts hurl themselves through the thicket, smash! bang! crash! +smash! as though a tornado were uprooting the forest. Then abruptly a +complete silence! This lasts but ten seconds or so; then off rushes the +wild stampede in another direction; only again to come to a listening +halt of breathless stillness. So the hunter, unable to see anything, +and feeling very small, huddles with his gunbearers in a compact group, +listening to the wild surging short rushes, now this way, now that, +hoping that the stampede may not run over him. If by chance it does, he +has his two shots and the possibility of hugging a tree while the rush +divides around him. The latter is the most likely; a single buffalo +is hard enough to stop with two shots, let alone a herd. And yet, +sometimes, the mere flash and noise will suffice to turn them, provided +they are not actually trying to attack, but only rushing indefinitely +about. Probably a man can experience few more thrilling moments than he +will enjoy standing in one of the small leafy rooms of an African jungle +while several hundred tons of buffalo crash back and forth all around +him. + +In the best of circumstances it is only rarely that having identified +his big bull, the hunter can deliver a knockdown blow. The beast is +extraordinarily vital, and in addition it is exceedingly difficult to +get a fair, open shot. Then from the danger of being trampled down +by the blind and senseless stampede of the herd he passes to the more +defined peril from an angered and cunning single animal. The majority of +fatalities in hunting buffaloes happen while following wounded beasts. A +flank charge at close range may catch the most experienced man; and even +when clearly seen, it is difficult to stop. The buffalo's wide bosses +are a helmet to his brain, and the body shot is always chancy. The beast +tosses his victim, or tramples him, or pushes him against a tree to +crush him like a fly. + +He who would get his trophy, however, is not always-perhaps is not +generally-forced into the thicket to get it. When not much disturbed, +buffaloes are in the habit of grazing out into the open just before +dark; and of returning to their thicket cover only well after sunrise. +If the hunter can arrange to meet his herd at such a time, he stands a +very good chance of getting a clear shot. The job then requires merely +ordinary caution and manoeuvring; and the only danger, outside the +ever-present one from the wounded beast, is that the herd may charge +over him deliberately. Therefore it is well to keep out of sight. + +The difficulty generally is to locate your beasts. They wander all +night, and must be blundered upon in the early morning before they have +drifted back into the thickets. Sometimes, by sending skilled trackers +in several directions, they can be traced to where they have entered +cover. A messenger then brings the white man to the place, and every one +tries to guess at what spot the buffaloes are likely to emerge for their +evening stroll. It is remarkably easy to make a wrong guess, and the +remaining daylight is rarely sufficient to repair a mistake. And also, +in the case of a herd ranging a wide country with much tall grass and +several drinking holes, it is rather difficult, without very good luck, +to locate them on any given night or morning. A few herds, a very few, +may have fixed habits, and so prove easy hunting. + +These difficulties, while in no way formidable, are real enough in their +small way; but they are immensely increased when the herds have been +often disturbed. Disturbance need not necessarily mean shooting. In +countries unvisited by white men often the pastoral natives will so +annoy the buffalo by shoutings and other means, whenever they appear +near the tame cattle, that the huge beasts will come practically +nocturnal. In that case only the rankest luck will avail to get a man +a chance in the open. The herds cling to cover until after sundown and +just at dusk; and they return again very soon after the first streaks of +dawn. If the hunter just happens to be at the exact spot, he may get +a twilight shot when the glimmering ivory of his front sight is barely +visible. Otherwise he must go into the thicket. + +As an illustration of the first condition might be instanced an +afternoon on the Tana. The weather was very hot. We had sent three lots +of men out in different directions, each under the leadership of one +of the gunbearers, to scout, while we took it easy in the shade of our +banda, or grass shelter, on the bank of the river. About one o'clock +a messenger came into camp reporting that the men under Mavrouki had +traced a herd to its lying-down place. We took our heavy guns and +started. + +The way led through thin scrub up the long slope of a hill that broke +on the other side into undulating grass ridges that ended in a range of +hills. These were about four or five miles distant, and thinly wooded +on sides and lower slopes with what resembled a small live-oak growth. +Among these trees, our guide told us, the buffalo had first been +sighted. + +The sun was very hot, and all the animals were still. We saw impalla in +the scrub, and many giraffes and bucks on the plains. After an hour and +a half's walk we entered the parklike groves at the foot of the hills, +and our guide began to proceed more cautiously. He moved forward a few +feet, peered about, retraced his steps. Suddenly his face broke into a +broad grin. Following his indication we looked up, and there in a tree +almost above us roosted one of our boys sound asleep! We whistled at +him. Thereupon he awoke, tried to look very alert, and pointed in the +direction we should go. After an interval we picked up another sentinel, +and another, and another until, passed on thus from one to the next, +we traced the movements of the herd. Finally we came upon Mavrouki and +Simba under a bush. From them, in whispers, we learned that the buffalo +were karibu sana-very near; that they had fed this far, and were now +lying in the long grass just ahead. Leaving the men, we now continued +our forward movement on hands and knees, in single file. It was very hot +work, for the sun beat square down on us, and the tall grass kept off +every breath of air. Every few moments we rested, lying on our faces. +Occasionally, when the grass shortened, or the slant of ground tended +to expose us, we lay quite flat and hitched forward an inch at a time by +the strength of our toes. This was very severe work indeed, and we were +drenched in perspiration. In fact, as I had been feeling quite ill all +day, it became rather doubtful whether I could stand the pace. + +However after a while we managed to drop down into an eroded deep little +ravine. Here the air was like that of a furnace, but at least we could +walk upright for a few rods. This we did, with the most extraordinary +precautions against even the breaking of a twig or the rolling of a +pebble. Then we clambered to the top of the bank, wormed our way forward +another fifty feet to the shelter of a tiny bush, and stretched out to +recuperate. We lay there some time, sheltered from the sun. Then ahead +of us suddenly rumbled a deep bellow. We were fairly upon the herd! + +Cautiously F., who was nearest the centre of the bush, raised himself +alongside the stem to look. He could see where the beasts were lying, +not fifty yards away, but he could make out nothing but the fact of +great black bodies taking their ease in the grass under the shade of +trees. So much he reported to us; then rose again to keep watch. + +Thus we waited the rest of the afternoon. The sun dipped at last toward +the west, a faint irregular breeze wandered down from the hills, certain +birds awoke and uttered their clear calls, an unsuspected kongoni +stepped from the shade of a tree over the way and began to crop the +grass, the shadows were lengthening through the trees. Then ahead of +us an uneasiness ran through the herd. We in the grass could hear the +mutterings and grumblings of many great animals. Suddenly F. snapped his +fingers, stooped low and darted forward. We scrambled to our feet and +followed. + +Across a short open space we ran, bent double to the shelter of a big +ant hill. Peering over the top of this we found ourselves within sixty +yards of a long compact column of the great black beasts, moving forward +orderly to the left, the points of the cow's horns, curved up and in, +tossing slowly as the animals walked. On the flank of the herd was a big +gray bull. + +It had been agreed that B. was to have the shot. Therefore he opened +fire with his 405 Winchester, a weapon altogether too light for this +sort of work. At the shot the herd dashed forward to an open grass +meadow a few rods away, wheeled and faced back in a compact mass, their +noses thrust up and out in their typical fashion, trying with all their +senses to locate the cause of the disturbance. + +Taking advantage both of the scattered cover, and the half light of the +shadows we slipped forward as rapidly and as unobtrusively as we could +to the edge of the grass meadow. Here we came to a stand eighty yards +from the buffaloes. They stood compactly like a herd of cattle, staring, +tossing their heads, moving slightly, their wild eyes searching for us. +I saw several good bulls, but always they moved where it was impossible +to shoot without danger of getting the wrong beast. Finally my chance +came; I planted a pair of Holland bullets in the shoulder of one of +them. + +The herd broke away to the right, sweeping past us at close range. My +bull ran thirty yards with them, then went down stone dead. When we +examined him we found the hole made by B.'s Winchester bullet; so that +quite unintentionally and by accident I had fired at the same beast. +This was lucky. The trophy, by hunter's law, of course, belonged to B. + +Therefore F. and I alone followed on after the herd. It was now coming +on dusk. Within a hundred yards we began to see scattered beasts. The +formation of the herd had broken. Some had gone on in flight, while +others in small scattered groups would stop to stare back, and would +then move slowly on for a few paces before stopping again. Among these +I made out a bull facing us about a hundred and twenty-five yards away, +and managed to stagger him, but could not bring him down. + +Now occurred an incident which I should hesitate to relate were it not +that both F. and myself saw it. We have since talked it over, compared +our recollections, and found them to coincide in every particular. + +As we moved cautiously in pursuit of the slowly retreating herd three +cows broke back and came running down past us. We ducked aside and hid, +of course, but noticed that of the three two were very young, while one +was so old that she had become fairly emaciated, a very unusual thing +with buffaloes. We then followed the herd for twenty minutes, or until +twilight, when we turned back. About halfway down the slope we again met +the three cows, returning. They passed us within twenty yards, but paid +us no attention whatever. The old cow was coming along very reluctantly, +hanging back at every step, and every once in a while swinging her head +viciously at one or the other of her two companions. These escorted her +on either side, and a little to the rear. They were plainly urging her +forward, and did not hesitate to dig her in the ribs with their horns +whenever she turned especially obstinate. In fact they acted exactly +like a pair of cowboys HERDING a recalcitrant animal back to its band +and I have no doubt at all that when they first by us the old lady was +making a break for liberty in the wrong direction, AND THAT THE TWO +YOUNGER COWS WERE TRYING TO ROUND HER BACK! Whether they were her +daughters or not is problematical; but it certainly seemed that they +were taking care of her and trying to prevent her running back where +it was dangerous to go. I never heard of a similar case, though Herbert +Ward* mentions, without particulars that elephants AND BUFFALOES will +assist each other WHEN WOUNDED. + + * A Voice from the Congo. + +After passing these we returned to where B. and the men, who had now +come up, had prepared the dead bull for transportation. We started at +once, travelling by the stars, shouting and singing to discourage the +lions, but did not reach camp until well into the night. + + + + + +XXV. THE BUFFALO-continued + +Some months later, and many hundreds of miles farther south, Billy and +I found ourselves alone with twenty men, and two weeks to pass until +C.-our companion at the time-should return from a long journey out with +a wounded man. By slow stages, and relaying back and forth, we landed in +a valley so beautiful in every way that we resolved to stay as long as +possible. This could be but five days at most. At the end of that time +we must start for our prearranged rendezvous with C. + +The valley was in the shape of an ellipse, the sides of which were +formed by great clifflike mountains, and the other two by hills lower, +but still of considerable boldness and size. The longest radius was +perhaps six or eight miles, and the shortest three or four. At one end +a canyon dropped away to a lower level, and at the other a pass in the +hills gave over to the country of the Narassara River. The name of the +valley was Lengeetoto. + +From the great mountains flowed many brooks of clear sparkling water, +that ran beneath the most beautiful of open jungles, to unite finally in +one main stream that disappeared down the canyon. Between these brooks +were low broad rolling hills, sometimes grass covered, sometimes grown +thinly with bushes. Where they headed in the mountains, long stringers +of forest trees ran up to blocklike groves, apparently pasted like +wafers against the base of the cliffs, but in reality occupying spacious +slopes below them. + +We decided to camp at the foot of a long grass slant within a hundred +yards of the trees along one of the small streams. Before us we had the +sweep of brown grass rising to a clear cut skyline; and all about us the +distant great hills behind which the day dawned and fell. One afternoon +a herd of giraffes stood silhouetted on this skyline quite a half hour +gazing curiously down on our camp. Hartebeeste and zebra swarmed in +the grassy openings; and impalla in the brush. We saw sing-sing and +steinbuck, and other animals, and heard lions nearly every night. But +principally we elected to stay because a herd of buffaloes ranged the +foothills and dwelt in the groves of forest trees under the cliffs. We +wanted a buffalo; and as Lengeetoto is practically unknown to white men, +we thought this a good chance to get one. In that I reckoned without +the fact that at certain seasons the Masai bring their cattle in, and at +such times annoy the buffalo all they can. + +We started out well enough. I sent Memba Sasa with two men to locate the +herd. About three o'clock a messenger came to camp after me. We plunged +through our own jungle, crossed a low swell, traversed another jungle, +and got in touch with the other two men. They reported the buffalo +had entered the thicket a few hundred yards below us. Cautiously +reconnoitering the ground it soon became evident that we would be forced +more definitely to locate the herd. To be sure, they had entered the +stream jungle at a known point, but there could be no telling how far +they might continue in the thicket, nor on what side of it they would +emerge at sundown. Therefore we commenced cautiously and slowly follow +the trail. + +The going was very thick, naturally, and we could not see very far +ahead. Our object was not now to try for a bull, but merely to find +where the herd was feeding, in order that we might wait for it to come +out. However, we were brought to a stand, in the middle of a jungle of +green leaves, by the cropping sound of a beast grazing just the other +side of a bush. We could not see it, and we stood stock still in the +hope of escaping discovery ourselves. But an instant later a sudden +crash of wood told us we had been seen. It was near work. The gunbearers +crouched close to me. I held the heavy double gun ready. If the beast +had elected to charge I would have had less than ten yards within which +to stop it. Fortunately it did not do so. But instantly the herd was +afoot and off at full speed. A locomotive amuck in a kindling pile could +have made no more appalling a succession of rending crashes than did +those heavy animals rushing here and there through the thick woody +growth. We could see nothing. Twice the rush started in our direction, +but stopped as suddenly as it had begun, to be succeeded by absolute +stillness when everything, ourselves included, held its breath to +listen. Finally, the first panic over, the herd started definitely away +downstream. We ran as fast as we could out of the jungle to a commanding +position on the hill. Thence we could determine the course of the herd. +It continued on downstream as far as we could follow the sounds in the +convolutions of the hills. Realizing that it would improbably recover +enough from its alarmed condition to resume its regular habits that day, +we returned to camp. + +Next morning Memba Sasa and I were afield before daylight. We took no +other men. In hunting I am a strong disbeliever in the common habit of +trailing along a small army. It is simple enough, in case the kill +is made, to send back for help. No matter how skilful your men are at +stalking, the chances of alarming the game are greatly increased +by numbers; while the possibilities of misunderstanding the plan of +campaign, and so getting into the wrong place at the wrong time, are +infinite. Alone, or with one gunbearer, a man can slip in and out a herd +of formidable animals with the least chances of danger. Merely going out +after camp meat is of course a different matter. + +We did not follow in the direction taken by the herd the night before, +but struck off toward the opposite side of the valley. For two hours we +searched the wooded country at the base of the cliff mountains, working +slowly around the circle, examining every inlet, ravine and gully. +Plenty of other sorts of game we saw, including elephant tracks not +a half hour old; but no buffalo. About eight o'clock, however, while +looking through my glasses, I caught sight of some tiny chunky black +dots crawling along below the mountains diagonally across the valley, +and somewhat over three miles away. We started in that direction as fast +as we could walk. At the end of an hour we surmounted the last swell, +and stood at the edge of a steep drop. Immediately below us flowed a +good-sized stream through a high jungle over the tops of which we looked +to a triangular gentle slope overgrown with scattered bushes and high +grass. Beyond this again ran another jungle, angling up hill from +the first, to end in a forest of trees about thirty or forty acres in +extent. This jungle and these trees were backed up against the slope of +the mountain. The buffaloes we had first seen above the grove: they must +now have sought cover among either the trees or the lower jungle, and +it seemed reasonable that the beasts would emerge on the grass and bush +area late in the afternoon. Therefore Memba Sasa and I selected good +comfortable sheltered spots, leaned our backs against rocks, and +resigned ourselves to long patience. It was now about nine o'clock in +the morning, and we could not expect our game to come out before half +past three at earliest. We could not, however, go away to come back +later because of the chance that the buffaloes might take it into their +heads to go travelling. I had been fooled that way before. For this +reason, also, it was necessary, every five minutes or so, to examine +carefully all our boundaries; lest the beasts might be slipping away +through the cover. + +The hours passed very slowly. We made lunch last as long as possible. I +had in my pocket a small edition of Hawthorne's “The House of the Seven +Gables,” which I read, pausing every few minutes to raise my glasses +for the periodical examination of the country. The mental focussing +back from the pale gray half light of Hawthorne's New England to the +actuality of wild Africa was a most extraordinary experience. + +Through the heat of the day the world lay absolutely silent. At about +half-past three, however, we heard rumblings and low bellows from the +trees a half mile away. I repocketed Hawthorne, and aroused myself to +continuous alertness. + +The ensuing two hours passed more slowly than all the rest of the +day, for we were constantly on the lookout. The buffaloes delayed most +singularly, seemingly reluctant to leave their deep cover. The sun +dropped behind the mountains, and their shadow commenced to climb the +opposite range. I glanced at my watch. We had not more than a half hour +of daylight left. + +Fifteen minutes of this passed. It began to look as though our long +and monotonous wait had been quite in vain; when, right below us, and +perhaps five hundred yards away, four great black bodies fed leisurely +from the bushes. Three of them we could see plainly. Two were bulls +of fair size. The fourth, half concealed in the brush, was by far the +biggest of the lot. + +In order to reach them we would have to slip down the face of the hill +on which we sat, cross the stream jungle at the bottom, climb out the +other side, and make our stalk to within range. With a half hour more +of daylight this would have been comparatively easy, but in such +circumstances it is difficult to move at the same time rapidly and +unseen. However, we decided to make the attempt. To that end we +disencumbered ourselves of all our extras-lunch box, book, kodak, +glasses, etc.-and wormed our way as rapidly as possible toward the +bottom of the hill. We utilized the cover as much as we were able, but +nevertheless breathed a sigh of relief when we had dropped below the +line of the jungle. We wasted very little time crossing the latter, +save for precautions against noise. Even in my haste, however, I had +opportunity to notice its high and austere character, with the arching +overhead vines, and the clear freedom from undergrowth in its heart. +Across this cleared space we ran at full speed, crouching below the +grasp of the vines, splashed across the brook and dashed up the other +bank. Only a faint glimmer of light lingered in the jungle. At the upper +edge we paused, collected ourselves, and pushed cautiously through the +thick border-screen of bush. + +The twilight was just fading into dusk. Of course we had taken our +bearings from the other hill; so now, after reassuring ourselves of +them, we began to wriggle our way at a great pace through the high +grass. Our calculations were quite accurate. We stalked successfully, +and at last, drenched in sweat, found ourselves lying flat within ten +yards of a small bush behind which we could make out dimly the black +mass of the largest beast we had seen from across the way. + +Although it was now practically dark, we had the game in our own hands. +From our low position the animal, once it fed forward from behind the +single small bush, would be plainly outlined against the sky, and at ten +yards I should be able to place my heavy bullets properly, even in the +dark. Therefore, quite easy in our minds, we lay flat and rested. At the +end of twenty seconds the animal began to step forward. I levelled my +double gun, ready to press trigger the moment the shoulder appeared in +the clear. Then against the saffron sky emerged the ugly outline and two +upstanding horns of a rhinoceros! + +“Faru!” I whispered disgustedly to Memba Sasa. With infinite pains we +backed out, then retreated to a safe distance. It was of course now too +late to hunt up the three genuine buffaloes of this ill-assorted group. + +In fact our main necessity was to get through the river jungle before +the afterglow had faded from the sky, leaving us in pitch darkness. +I sent Memba Sasa across to pick up the effects we had left on the +opposite ridge, while I myself struck directly across the flat toward +camp. + +I had plunged ahead thus, for two or three hundred yards, when I was +brought up short by the violent snort of a rhinoceros just off the +starboard bow. He was very close, but I was unable to locate him in the +dusk. A cautious retreat and change of course cleared me from him, and +I was about to start on again full speed when once more I was halted by +another rhinoceros, this time dead ahead. Attempting to back away from +him, I aroused another in my rear; and as though this were not enough a +fourth opened up to the left. + +It was absolutely impossible to see anything ten yards away unless it +happened to be silhouetted against the sky. I backed cautiously toward +a little bush, with a vague idea of having something to dodge around. +As the old hunter said when, unarmed, he met the bear, “Anything, even +a newspaper, would have come handy.” To my great joy I backed against +a conical ant hill four or five feet high. This I ascended and began +anti-rhino demonstrations. I had no time to fool with rhinos, anyway. I +wanted to get through that jungle before the leopards left their family +circles. I hurled clods of earth and opprobrious shouts and epithets +in the four directions of my four obstreperous friends, and I thought +I counted four reluctant departures. Then, with considerable doubt, I +descended from my ant hill and hurried down the slope, stumbling +over grass hummocks, colliding with bushes, tangling with vines, but +progressing in a gratifyingly rhinoless condition. Five minutes cautious +but rapid feeling my way brought me through the jungle. Shortly after I +raised the campfires; and so got home. + +The next two days were repetitions, with slight variation, of this +experience, minus the rhinos! Starting from camp before daylight we were +only in time to see the herd-always aggravatingly on the other side of +the cover, no matter which side we selected for our approach, slowly +grazing into the dense jungle. And always they emerged so late and so +far away that our very best efforts failed to get us near them before +dark. The margin always so narrow, however, that our hopes were alive. + +On the fourth day, which must be our last in Longeetoto, we found that +the herd had shifted to fresh cover three miles along the base of the +mountains. We had no faith in those buffaloes, but about half-past three +we sallied forth dutifully and took position on a hill overlooking the +new hiding place. This consisted of a wide grove of forest trees varied +by occasional open glades and many dense thickets. So eager were we to +win what had by now developed into a contest that I refused to shoot a +lioness with a three-quarters-grown cub that appeared within easy shot +from some reeds below us. + +Time passed as usual until nearly sunset. Then through an opening into +one of the small glades we caught sight of the herd travelling slowly +but steadily from right to left. The glimpse was only momentary, but it +was sufficient to indicate the direction from which we might expect them +to emerge. Therefore we ran at top speed down from our own hill, tore +through the jungle at its foot, and hastily, but with more caution, +mounted the opposite slope through the scattered groves and high grass. +We could hear occasionally indications of the buffaloes' slow advance, +and we wanted to gain a good ambuscade above them before they emerged. +We found it in the shape of a small conical hillock perched on the +side hill itself, and covered with long grass. It commanded open vistas +through the scattered trees in all directions. And the thicket itself +ended not fifty yards away. No buffalo could possibly come out without +our seeing him; and we had a good half hour of clear daylight before us. +It really seemed that luck had changed at last. + +We settled ourselves, unlimbered for action, and got our breath. The +buffaloes came nearer and nearer. At length, through a tiny opening a +hundred yards away, we could catch momentary glimpses of their great +black bodies. I thrust forward the safety catch and waited. Finally +a half dozen of the huge beasts were feeding not six feet inside the +circle of brush, and only thirty-odd yards from where we lay. + +And they came no farther! I never passed a more heart-breaking half hour +of suspense than that in which little by little the daylight and our +hopes faded, while those confounded buffaloes moved slowly out to the +very edge of the thicket, turned, and moved as slowly back again. At +times they came actually into view. We could see their sleek black +bodies rolling lazily into sight and back again, like seals on the +surface of water, but never could we make out more than that. I could +have had a dozen good shots, but I could not even guess what I would be +shooting at. And the daylight drained away and the minutes ticked by! + +Finally, as I could see no end to this performance save that to which we +had been so sickeningly accustomed in the last four days, I motioned to +Memba Sasa, and together we glided like shadows into the thicket. + +There it was already dusk. We sneaked breathlessly through the small +openings, desperately in a hurry, almost painfully on the alert. In the +dark shadow sixty yards ahead stood a half dozen monstrous bodies all +facing our way. They suspected the presence of something unusual, but in +the darkness and the stillness they could neither identify it nor locate +it exactly. I dropped on one knee and snatched my prism glasses to my +eyes. The magnification enabled me to see partially into the shadows. +Every one of the group carried the sharply inturned points to the horns: +they were all cows! + +An instant after I had made out this fact, they stampeded across our +face. The whole band thundered and crashed away. + +Desperately we sprang after them, our guns atrail, our bodies stooped +low to keep down in the shadow of the earth. And suddenly, without the +slightest warning we plumped around a bush square on top of the entire +herd. It had stopped and was staring back in our direction. I could see +nothing but the wild toss of a hundred pair of horns silhouetted against +such of the irregular saffron afterglow as had not been blocked off by +the twigs and branches of the thicket. All below was indistinguishable +blackness. + +They stood in a long compact semicircular line thirty yards away, quite +still, evidently staring intently into the dusk to find out what had +alarmed them. At any moment they were likely to make another rush; +and if they did so in the direction they were facing, they would most +certainly run over us and trample us down. + +Remembering the dusk I thought it likely that the unexpected vivid flash +of the gun might turn them off before they got started. Therefore I +raised the big double Holland, aimed below the line of heads, and was +just about to pull trigger when my eye caught the silhouette of a pair +of horns whose tips spread out instead of turning in. This was a bull, +and I immediately shifted the gun in his direction. At the heavy double +report, the herd broke wildly to right and left and thundered away. I +confess I was quite relieved. + +A low moaning bellow told us that our bull was down. The last few days' +experience at being out late had taught us wisdom so Memba Sasa had +brought a lantern. By the light of this, we discovered our bull down, +and all but dead. To make sure, I put a Winchester bullet into his +backbone. + +We felt ourselves legitimately open to congratulations, for we had +killed this bull from a practically nocturnal herd, in the face of +considerable danger and more than considerable difficulty. Therefore we +shook hands and made appropriate remarks to each other, lacking anybody +to make them for us. + +By now it was pitch dark in the thicket, and just about so outside. We +had to do a little planning. I took the Holland gun, gave Memba Sasa the +Winchester, and started him for camp after help. As he carried off the +lantern, it was now up to me to make a fire and to make it quickly. + +For the past hour a fine drizzle had been falling; and the whole country +was wet from previous rains. I hastily dragged in all the dead wood I +could find near, collected what ought to be good kindling, and started +in to light a fire. Now, although I am no Boy Scout, I have lit several +fires in my time. But never when I was at the same time in such a +desperate need and hurry; and in possession of such poor materials. The +harder I worked, the worse things sputtered and smouldered. Probably +the relief from the long tension of the buffalo hunt had something to +do with my general piffling inefficiency. If I had taken time to do a +proper job once instead of a halfway job a dozen times, as I should have +done and usually would have done, I would have had a fire in no time. +I imagine I was somewhat scared. The lioness and her hulking cub had +smelled the buffalo and were prowling around. I could hear them purring +and uttering their hollow grunts. However, at last the flame held. I +fed it sparingly, lit a pipe, placed the Holland gun next my hand, and +resigned myself to waiting. For two hours this was not so bad. I smoked, +and rested up, and dried out before my little fire. Then my fuel began +to run low. I arose and tore down all the remaining dead limbs within +the circle of my firelight. These were not many, so I stepped out into +the darkness for more. Immediately I was warned back by a deep growl! + +The next hour was not one of such solid comfort. I began to get +parsimonious about my supply of firewood, trying to use it in such a +manner as to keep up an adequate blaze, and at the same time to make it +last until Memba Sasa should return with the men. I did it, though I got +down to charred ends before I was through. The old lioness hung around +within a hundred yards or so below, and the buffalo herd, returning, +filed by above, pausing to stamp and snort at the fire. Finally, about +nine o'clock, I made out two lanterns bobbing up to me through the +trees. + +The last incident to be selected from many experiences with buffaloes +took place in quite an unvisited district over the mountains from the +Loieta Plains. For nearly two months we had ranged far in this lovely +upland country of groves and valleys and wide grass bottoms between +hills, hunting for greater kudu. One day we all set out from camp to +sweep the base of a range of low mountains in search of a good specimen +of Newman's hartebeeste, or anything else especially desirable that +might happen along. The gentle slope from the mountains was of grass cut +by numerous small ravines grown with low brush. This brush was so scanty +as to afford but indifferent cover for anything larger than one of the +small grass antelopes. All the ravines led down a mile or so to a deeper +main watercourse paralleling the mountains. Some water stood in the +pools here; and the cover was a little more dense, but consisted at best +of but a “stringer” no wider than a city street. Flanking the stringer +were scattered high bushes for a few yards; and then the open country. +Altogether as unlikely a place for the shade-loving buffalo as could be +imagined. + +We collected our Newmanii after rather a long hunt; and just at noon, +when the heat of the day began to come on, we wandered down to the water +for lunch. Here we found a good clear pool and drank. The boys began to +make themselves comfortable by the water's edge; C. went to superintend +the disposal of Billy's mule. Billy had sat down beneath the shade of +the most hospitable of the bushes a hundred feet or so away, and was +taking off her veil and gloves. I was carrying to her the lunch box. +When I was about halfway from where the boys were drinking at the +stream's edge to where she sat, a buffalo bull thrust his head from the +bushes just the other side of her. His head was thrust up and forward, +as he reached after some of the higher tender leaves on the bushes. So +close was he that I could see plainly the drops glistening on his moist +black nose. As for Billy, peacefully unwinding her long veil, she seemed +fairly under the beast. + +I had no weapon, and any moment might bring some word or some noise that +would catch the animal's attention. Fortunately, for the moment, every +one, relaxed in the first reaction after the long morning, was keeping +silence. If the buffalo should look down, he could not fail to see +Billy; and if he saw her, he would indubitably kill her. + +As has been explained, snapping the fingers does not seem to reach the +attention of wild animals. Therefore I snapped mine as vigorously as I +knew how. Billy heard, looked toward me, turned in the direction of my +gaze, and slowly sank prone against the ground. Some of the boys heard +me also, and I could see the heads of all of them popping up in interest +from the banks of the stream. My cautious but very frantic signals to +lie low were understood: the heads dropped back. Mavrouki, a rifle +in each hand, came worming his way toward me through the grass with +incredible quickness and agility. A moment later he thrust the 405 +Winchester into my hand. + +This weapon, powerful and accurate as it is, the best of the lot for +lions, was altogether too small for the tremendous brute before +me. However, the Holland was in camp; and I was very glad in the +circumstances to get this. The buffalo had browsed slowly forward into +the clear, and was now taking the top off a small bush, and facing half +away from us. It seemed to me quite the largest buffalo I had ever seen, +though I should have been willing to have acknowledged at that moment +that the circumstances had something to do with the estimate. However, +later we found that the impression was correct. He was verily a giant of +his kind. His height at the shoulder was five feet ten inches; and +his build was even chunkier than the usual solid robust pattern of +buffaloes. For example, his neck, just back of the horns, was two feet +eight inches thick! He weighed not far from three thousand pounds. + +Once the rifle was in my hands I lost the feeling of utter helplessness, +and began to plan the best way out of the situation. As yet the beast +was totally unconscious of our presence; but that could not continue +long. There were too many men about. A chance current of air from any +one of a half dozen directions could not fail to give him the scent. +Then there would be lively doings. It was exceedingly desirable to +deliver the first careful blow of the engagement while he was unaware. +On the other hand, his present attitude-half away from me-was not +favourable; nor, in my exposed position dared I move to a better place. +There seemed nothing better than to wait; so wait we did. Mavrouki +crouched close at my elbow, showing not the faintest indication of a +desire to be anywhere but there. + +The buffalo browsed for a minute or so; then swung slowly broadside on. +So massive and low were the bosses of his horns that the brain shot +was impossible. Therefore I aimed low in the shoulder. The shock of the +bullet actually knocked that great beast off his feet! My respect for +the hitting power of the 405 went up several notches. The only +trouble was that he rebounded like a rubber ball. Without an instant's +hesitation I gave him another in the same place. This brought him to +his knees for an instant; but he was immediately afoot again. Billy +had, with great good sense and courage, continued to lie absolutely flat +within a few yards of the beast, Mavrouki and I had kept low, and C. and +the men were out of sight. The buffalo therefore had seen none of his +antagonists. He charged at a guess, and guessed wrong. As he went by +I fired at his head, and, as we found out afterward, broke his jaw. A +moment later C.'s great elephant gun roared from somewhere behind me as +he fired by a glimpse through the brush at the charging animal. It was +an excellent snapshot, and landed back of the ribs. + +When the buffalo broke through the screen of brush I dashed after him, +for I thought our only chance of avoiding danger lay in keeping close +track of where that buffalo went. On the other side the bushes I found a +little grassy opening, and then a small but dense thicket into which the +animal had plunged. To my left, C. was running up, followed closely by +Billy, who, with her usual good sense, had figured out the safest place +to be immediately back of the guns. We came together at the thicket's +edge. + +The animal's movements could be plainly followed by the sound of his +crashing. We heard him dash away some distance, pause, circle a bit to +the right, and then come rushing back in our direction. Stooping low +we peered into the darkness of the thicket. Suddenly we saw him, not +a dozen yards away. He was still afoot, but very slow. I dropped the +magazine of five shots into him as fast as I could work the lever. We +later found all the bullet-holes in a spot as big as the palm of your +hand. These successive heavy blows delivered all in the same place were +too much for even his tremendous vitality; and slowly he sank on his +side. + + + + + +XXVI. JUJA + +Most people have heard of Juja, the modern dwelling in the heart of an +African wilderness, belonging to our own countryman, Mr. W. N. +McMillan. If most people are as I was before I saw the place, they have +considerable curiosity and no knowledge of what it is and how it looks. + +We came to Juja at the end of a wide circle that had lasted three +months, and was now bringing us back again toward our starting point. +For five days we had been camped on top a high bluff at the junction of +two rivers. When we moved we dropped down the bluff, crossed one river, +and, after some searching, found our way up the other bluff. There we +were on a vast plain bounded by mountains thirty miles away. A large +white and unexpected sign told us we were on Juja Farm, and warned us +that we should be careful of our fires in the long grass. + +For an hour we plodded slowly along. Herds of zebra and hartebeeste drew +aside before us, dark heavy wildebeeste-the gnu-stood in groups at a +safe distance their heads low, looking exactly like our vanished bison; +ghostlike bands of Thompson's gazelles glided away with their smooth +regular motion. On the vast and treeless plains single small objects +standing above the general uniformity took an exaggerated value; so +that, before it emerged from the swirling heat mirage, a solitary tree +might easily be mistaken for a group of buildings or a grove. Finally, +however, we raised above the horizon a dark straight clump of trees. It +danced in the mirage, and blurred and changed form, but it persisted. +A strange patch of white kept appearing and disappearing again. This +resolved itself into the side of a building. A spider-legged water tower +appeared above the trees. + +Gradually we drew up on these. A bit later we swung to the right around +a close wire fence ten feet high, passed through a gate, and rode down +a long slanting avenue of young trees. Between the trees were century +plants and flowers, and a clipped border ran before them. The avenue +ended before a low white bungalow, with shady verandas all about it, and +vines. A formal flower garden lay immediately about it, and a very tall +flag pole had been planted in front. A hundred feet away the garden +dropped off steep to one of the deep river canyons. + +Two white-robed Somalis appeared on the veranda to inform us that +McMillan was off on safari. Our own boys approaching at this moment, we +thereupon led them past the house, down another long avenue of trees and +flowers, out into an open space with many buildings at its edges, past +extensive stables, and through another gate to the open plains once +more. Here we made camp. After lunch we went back to explore. + +Juja is situated on the top of a high bluff overlooking a river. In +all directions are tremendous grass plains. Donya Sabuk-the Mountain of +Buffaloes-is the only landmark nearer than the dim mountains beyond +the edge of the world, and that is a day's journey away. A rectangle of +possibly forty acres has been enclosed on three sides by animal-proof +wire fence. The fourth side is the edge of the bluff. Within this +enclosure have been planted many trees, now of good size; a pretty +garden with abundance of flowers, ornamental shrubs, a sundial, and +lawns. In the river bottom land below the bluff is a very extensive +vegetable and fruit garden, with cornfields, and experimental plantings +of rubber, and the like. For the use of the people of Juja here are +raised a great variety and abundance of vegetables, fruits, and grains. + +Juja House, as has been said, stands back a hundred feet from a bend +in the bluffs that permits a view straight up the river valley. It +is surrounded by gardens and trees, and occupies all one end of the +enclosed rectangle. Farther down and perched on the edge of a bluff, +are several pretty little bungalows for the accommodation of the +superintendent and his family, for the bachelors' mess, for the farm +offices and dispensary, and for the dairy room, the ice-plant and the +post-office and telegraph station. Back of and inland from this row on +the edge of the cliff, and scattered widely in open space, are a large +store stocked with everything on earth, the Somali quarters of low +whitewashed buildings, the cattle corrals, the stables, wild animal +cages, granaries, blacksmith and carpenter shops, wagon sheds and the +like. Outside the enclosure, and a half mile away, are the conical grass +huts that make up the native village. Below the cliff is a concrete dam, +an electric light plant, a pumping plant and a few details of the sort. + +Such is a relief map of Juja proper. Four miles away, and on another +river, is Long Juja, a strictly utilitarian affair where grow ostriches, +cattle, sheep, and various irrigated things in the bottom land. All +the rest of the farm, or estate, or whatever one would call it, is open +plain, with here and there a river bottom, or a trifle of brush cover. +But never enough to constitute more than an isolated and lonesome patch. + +Before leaving London we had received from McMillan earnest assurances +that he kept open house, and that we must take advantage of his +hospitality should we happen his way. Therefore when one of his +white-robed Somalis approached us to inquire respectfully as to what +we wanted for dinner, we yielded weakly to the temptation and told him. +Then we marched us boldly to the house and took possession. + +All around the house ran a veranda, shaded bamboo curtains and vines, +furnished with the luxurious teakwood chairs of the tropics of which you +can so extend the arms as to form two comfortable and elevated rests for +your feet. Horns of various animals ornamented the walls. A megaphone +and a huge terrestrial telescope on a tripod stood in one corner. +Through the latter one could examine at favourable times the herds of +game on the plains. + +And inside-mind you, we were fresh from three months in the +wilderness-we found rugs, pictures, wall paper, a pianola, many books, +baths, beautiful white bedrooms with snowy mosquito curtains, electric +lights, running water, and above all an atmosphere of homelike comfort. +We fell into easy chairs, and seized books and magazines. The Somalis +brought us trays with iced and fizzy drinks in thin glasses. When +the time came we crossed the veranda in the rear to enter a spacious +separate dining-room. The table was white with napery, glittering with +silver and glass, bright with flowers. We ate leisurely of a well-served +course dinner, ending with black coffee, shelled nuts, and candied +fruit. Replete and satisfied we strolled back across the veranda to the +main house. F. raised his hand. + +“Hark!” he admonished us. + +We held still. From the velvet darkness came the hurried petulant +barking of zebra; three hyenas howled. + + + + + +XXVII. A VISIT AT JUJA + +Next day we left all this; and continued our march. About a month later, +however, we encountered McMillan himself in Nairobi. I was just out from +a very hard trip to the coast-Billy not with me-and wanted nothing so +much as a few days' rest. McMillan's cordiality was not to be denied, +however, so the very next day found us tucking ourselves into a +buckboard behind four white Abyssinian mules. McMillan, some Somalis +and Captain Duirs came along in another similar rig. Our driver was a +Hottentot half-caste from South Africa. He had a flat face, a yellow +skin, a quiet manner, and a competent hand. His name was Michael. At his +feet crouched a small Kikuyu savage, in blanket ear ornaments and all +the fixings, armed with a long lashed whip and raucous voice. At +any given moment he was likely to hop out over the moving wheel, run +forward, bat the off leading mule, and hop back again, all with the +most extraordinary agility. He likewise hurled what sounded like very +opprobrious epithets at such natives as did not get out the way quickly +enough to suit him. The expression of his face, which was that of a +person steeped in woe, never changed. + +We rattled out of Nairobi at a great pace, and swung into the Fort Hall +Road. This famous thoroughfare, one of the three or four made roads in +all East Africa, is about sixty miles long. It is a strategic necessity +but is used by thousands of natives on their way to see the sights of +the great metropolis. As during the season there is no water for much of +the distance, a great many pay for their curiosity with their lives. The +road skirts the base of the hills, winding in and out of shallow canyons +and about the edges of rounded hills. To the right one can see far out +across the Athi Plains. + +We met an almost unbroken succession of people. There were long pack +trains of women, quite cheerful, bent over under the weight of firewood +or vegetables, many with babies tucked away in the folds of their +garments; mincing dandified warriors with poodle-dog hair, skewers in +their ears, their jewelery brought to a high polish a fatuous expression +of self-satisfaction on their faces, carrying each a section of +sugarcane which they now used as a staff but would later devour for +lunch; bearers, under convoy of straight soldierly red-sashed Sudanese, +transporting Government goods; wild-eyed staring shenzis from the +forest, with matted hair and goatskin garments, looking ready to bolt +aside at the slightest alarm; coveys of marvellous and giggling damsels, +their fine-grained skin anointed and shining with red oil, strung with +beads and shells, very coquettish and sure of their feminine charm; +naked small boys marching solemnly like their elders; camel trains from +far-off Abyssinia or Somaliland under convoy of white-clad turbaned +grave men of beautiful features; donkey safaris in charge of dirty +degenerate looking East Indians carrying trade goods to some distant +post-all these and many more, going one way or the other, drew one side, +at the sight of our white faces, to let us pass. + +About two o'clock we suddenly turned off from the road, apparently quite +at random, down the long grassy interminable incline that dipped slowly +down and slowly up again over great distance to form the Athi Plains. +Along the road, with its endless swarm of humanity, we had seen no game, +but after a half mile it began to appear. We encountered herds of zebra, +kongoni, wildebeeste, and “Tommies” standing about or grazing, sometimes +almost within range from the moving buckboard. After a time we made out +the trees and water tower of Juja ahead; and by four o'clock had turned +into the avenue of trees. Our approach had been seen. Tea was ready, and +a great and hospitable table of bottles, ice, and siphons. + +The next morning we inspected the stables, built of stone in a hollow +square, like a fort, with box stalls opening directly into the courtyard +and screened carefully against the deadly flies. The horses, beautiful +creatures, were led forth each by his proud and anxious syce. We tried +them all, and selected our mounts for the time of our stay. The syces +were small black men, lean and well formed, accustomed to running afoot +wherever their charges went, at walk, lope or gallop. Thus in a day they +covered incredible distances over all sorts of country; but were always +at hand to seize the bridle reins when the master wished to dismount. +Like the rickshaw runners in Nairobi, they wore their hair clipped close +around their bullet heads and seemed to have developed into a small +compact hard type of their own. They ate and slept with their horses. + +Just outside the courtyard of the stables a little barred window had +been cut through. Near this were congregated a number of Kikuyu savages +wrapped in their blankets, receiving each in turn a portion of cracked +corn from a dusty white man behind the bars. They were a solemn, +unsmiling, strange type of savage, and they performed all the manual +work within the enclosure, squatting on their heels and pulling +methodically but slowly at the weeds, digging with their pangas, +carrying loads: to and fro, or solemnly pushing a lawn mower, blankets +wrapped shamelessly about their necks. They were harried about by a +red-faced beefy English gardener with a marvellous vocabulary of +several native languages and a short hippo-hide whip. He talked himself +absolutely purple in the face without, as far as my observation went, +penetrating an inch below the surface. The Kikuyus went right on doing +what they were already doing in exactly the same manner. Probably the +purple Englishman was satisfied with that, but I am sure apoplexy of +either the heat or thundering variety has him by now. + +Before the store building squatted another group of savages. Perhaps +in time one of the lot expected to buy something; or possibly they just +sat. Nobody but a storekeeper would ever have time to find out. Such +is the native way. The storekeeper in this case was named John. Besides +being storekeeper, he had charge of the issuing of all the house +supplies, and those for the white men's mess; he must do all the +worrying about the upper class natives; he must occasionally kill a +buck for the meat supply; and he must be prepared to take out any stray +tenderfeet that happen along during McMillan's absence, and persuade +them that they are mighty hunters. His domain was a fascinating place, +for it contained everything from pianola parts to patent washstands. The +next best equipped place of the kind I know of is the property room of a +moving picture company. + +We went to mail a letter, and found the postmaster to be a +gentle-voiced, polite little Hindu, who greeted us smilingly, +and attempted to conceal a work of art. We insisted; whereupon he +deprecatingly drew forth a copy of a newspaper cartoon having to do with +Colonel Roosevelt's visit. It was copied with mathematical exactness, +and highly coloured in a manner to throw into profound melancholy +the chauffeur of a coloured supplement press. We admired and praised; +whereupon, still shyly, he produced more, and yet again more copies +of the same cartoon. When we left, he was reseating himself to the +painstaking valueless labour with which he filled his days. Three times +a week such mail as Juja gets comes in via native runner. We saw the +latter, a splendid figure, almost naked, loping easily, his little +bundle held before him. + +Down past the office and dispensary we strolled, by the comfortable, +airy, white man's clubhouse. The headman of the native population passed +us with a dignified salute; a fine upstanding deep-chested man, with a +lofty air of fierce pride. He and his handful of soldiers alone of the +natives, except the Somalis and syces, dwelt within the compound in +a group of huts near the gate. There when off duty they might be seen +polishing their arms, or chatting with their women. The latter were +ladies of leisure, with wonderful chignons, much jewelery, and patterned +Mericani wrapped gracefully about their pretty figures. + +By the time we had seen all these things it was noon. We ate lunch. The +various members of the party decided to do various things. I elected to +go out with McMillan while he killed a wildebeeste, and I am very glad I +did. It was a most astonishing performance. + +You must imagine us driving out the gate in a buckboard behind four +small but lively white Abyssinian mules. In the front seat were Michael, +the Hottentot driver, and McMillan's Somali gunbearer. In the rear seat +were McMillan and myself, while a small black syce perched precariously +behind. Our rifles rested in a sling before us. So we jogged out on the +road to Long Juju, examining with a critical eye the herds of game to +right and left of us. The latter examined us, apparently, with an eye as +critical. Finally, in a herd of zebra, we espied a lone wildebeeste. + +The wildebeeste is the Jekyll and Hyde of the animal kingdom. His +usual and familiar habit is that of a heavy, sluggish animal, like +our vanished bison. He stands solid and inert, his head down; he plods +slowly forward in single file, his horns swinging, each foot planted +deliberately. In short, he is the personification of dignity, solid +respectability, gravity of demeanour. But then all of a sudden, at any +small interruption, he becomes the giddiest of created beings. Up goes +his head and tail, he buck jumps, cavorts, gambols, kicks up his heels, +bounds stiff-legged, and generally performs like an irresponsible +infant. To see a whole herd at once of these grave and reverend +seigneurs suddenly blow up into such light-headed capers goes far to +destroy one's faith in the stability of institutions. + +Also the wildebeeste is not misnamed. He is a conservative, and he sees +no particular reason for allowing his curiosity to interfere with his +preconceived beliefs. The latter are distrustful. Therefore he and his +females and his young-I should say small-depart when one is yet far +away. I say small, because I do not believe that any wildebeeste is ever +young. They do not resemble calves, but are exact replicas of the big +ones, just as Niobe's daughters are in nothing childlike, but merely +smaller women. + +When we caught sight of this lone wildebeeste among the zebra, I +naturally expected that we would pull up the buckboard, descend, and +approach to within some sort of long range. Then we would open fire. +Barring luck, the wildebeeste would thereupon depart “wilder and +beestier than ever,” as John McCutcheon has it. Not at all! Michael, the +Hottentot, turned the buckboard off the road, headed toward the distant +quarry, and charged at full speed! Over stones we went that sent us feet +into the air, down and out of shallow gullies that seemed as though they +would jerk the pole from the vehicle with a grand rattlety-bang, every +one hanging on for his life. I was entirely occupied with the state of +my spinal column and the retention of my teeth, but McMillan must have +been keeping his eye on the game. One peculiarity of the wildebeeste +is that he cannot see behind him, and another is that he is curious. It +would not require a very large bump of curiosity, however, to cause any +animal to wonder what all the row was about. There could be no doubt +that this animal would sooner or later stop for an instant to look for +the purpose of seeing what was up in jungleland; and just before +doing so he would, for a few steps, slow down from a gallop to a trot. +McMillan was watching for this symptom. + +“Now!” he yelled, when he saw it. + +Instantly Michael threw his weight into the right rein and against the +brake. We swerved so violently to the right and stopped so suddenly +that I nearly landed on the broad prairies. The manoeuvre fetched us up +broadside. The small black syce-and heaven knows how HE had managed to +hang on-darted to the heads of the leading mules. At the same moment the +wildebeeste turned, and stopped; but even before he had swung his head, +McMillan had fired. It was extraordinarily good, quick work, the way he +picked up the long range from the spurts of dust where the bullets hit. +At the third or fourth shots he landed one. Immediately the beast +was off again at a tearing run pursued by a rapid fusillade from the +remaining shots. Then with a violent jerk and a wild yell we were off +again. + +This time, since the animal was wounded, he made for rougher country. +And everywhere that wildebeeste went we too were sure to go. We hit +or shaved boulders that ought to have smashed a wheel, we tore through +thick brush regardless. Twice we charged unhesitatingly over apparent +precipices. I do not know the name of the manufacturer of the buckboard. +If I did, I should certainly recommend it here. Twice more we swerved to +our broadside and cut loose the port batteries. Once more McMillan +hit. Then, on the fourth “run,” we gained perceptibly. The beast was +weakening. When he came to a stumbling halt we were not over a hundred +yards from him, and McMillan easily brought him down. We had chased him +four or five miles, and McMillan had fired nineteen shots, of which two +had hit. The rifle practice throughout had been remarkably good, and a +treat to watch. Personally, besides the fun of attending the show, I got +a mighty good afternoon's exercise. + +We loaded the game aboard and jogged slowly back to the house, for the +mules were pretty tired. We found a neighbour, Mr. Heatley of Kamiti +Ranch who had “dropped down” twelve miles to see us. On account of a +theft McMillan now had all the Somalis assembled for interrogation on +the side verandas. The interrogation did not amount to much, but while +it was going on the Sudanese headman and his askaris were quietly +searching the boys' quarters. After a time they appeared. The suspected +men had concealed nothing, but the searchers brought with them three of +McMillan's shirts which they had found among the effects of another, and +entirely unsuspected, boy named Abadie. + +“How is this, Abadie?” demanded McMillan sternly. + +Abadie hesitated. Then he evidently reflected that there is slight use +in having a deity unless one makes use of him. + +“Bwana,” said he with an engaging air of belief and candour, “God must +have put them there!” + +That evening we planned a “general day” for the morrow. We took boys and +buckboards and saddle-horses, beaters, shotguns, rifles, and revolvers, +and we sallied forth for a grand and joyous time. The day from a +sporting standpoint was entirely successful, the bag consisting of +two waterbuck, a zebra, a big wart-hog, six hares, and six grouse. +Personally I was a little hazy and uncertain. By evening the fever had +me, and though I stayed at Juja for six days longer, it was as a patient +to McMillan's unfailing kindness rather than as a participant in the +life of the farm. + + + + + +XXVIII. A RESIDENCE AT JUJA + +A short time later, at about middle of the rainy season, McMillan left +for a little fishing off Catalina Island. The latter is some fourteen +thousand miles of travel from Juja. Before leaving on this flying trip, +McMillan made us a gorgeous offer. + +“If,” said he, “you want to go it alone, you can go out and use Juja as +long as you please.” + +This offer, or, rather, a portion of it, you may be sure, we accepted +promptly. McMillan wanted in addition to leave us his servants; but to +this we would not agree. Memba Sasa and Mahomet were, of course, members +of our permanent staff. In addition to them we picked up another house +boy, named Leyeye. He was a Masai. These proud and aristocratic savages +rarely condescend to take service of any sort except as herders; but +when they do they prove to be unusually efficient and intelligent. We +had also a Somali cook, and six ordinary bearers to do general labour. +This small safari we started off afoot for Juja. The whole lot cost us +about what we would pay one Chinaman on the Pacific Coast. + +Next day we ourselves drove out in the mule buckboard. The rains were +on, and the road was very muddy. After the vital tropical fashion the +grass was springing tall in the natural meadows and on the plains and +the brief-lived white lilies and an abundance of ground flowers washed +the slopes with colour. Beneath the grass covering, the entire surface +of the ground was an inch or so deep in water. This was always most +surprising, for, apparently, the whole country should have been high +and dry. Certainly its level was that of a plateau rather than a bottom +land; so that one seemed always to be travelling at an elevation. +Nevertheless walking or riding we were continually splashing, and the +only dry going outside the occasional rare “islands” of the slight +undulations we found near the very edge of the bluffs above the rivers. +There the drainage seemed sufficient to carry off the excess. Elsewhere +the hardpan or bedrock must have been exceptionally level and near the +top of the ground. + +Nothing nor nobody seemed to mind this much. The game splashed around +merrily, cropping at the tall grass; the natives slopped indifferently, +and we ourselves soon became so accustomed to two or three inches of +water and wet feet that after the first two days we never gave those +phenomena a thought. + +The world above at this season of the year was magnificent. The African +heavens are always widely spacious, but now they seemed to have blown +even vaster than usual. In the sweep of the vision four or five heavy +black rainstorms would be trailing their skirts across an infinitely +remote prospect; between them white piled scud clouds and cumuli sailed +like ships; and from them reflected so brilliant a sunlight and behind +all showed so dazzling a blue sky that the general impression was of +a fine day. The rainstorms' gray veils slanted; tremendous patches of +shadow lay becalmed on the plains; bright sunshine poured abundantly its +warmth and yellow light. + +So brilliant with both direct and reflected light and the values of +contrast were the heavens, that when one happened to stand within one of +the great shadows it became extraordinarily difficult to make out game +on the plains. The pupils contracted to the brilliancy overhead. Often +too, near sunset, the atmosphere would become suffused with a lurid +saffron light that made everything unreal and ghastly. At such times +the game seemed puzzled by the unusual aspect of things. The zebra +especially would bark and stamp and stand their ground, and even come +nearer out of sheer curiosity. I have thus been within fifty yards of +them, right out in the open. At such times it was as though the sky, +instead of rounding over in the usual shape, had been thrust up at the +western horizon to the same incredible height as the zenith. In the +space thus created were piled great clouds through which slanted broad +bands of yellow light on a diminished world. + +It rained with great suddenness on our devoted heads, and with a curious +effect of metamorphoslng the entire universe. One moment all was clear +and smiling, with the trifling exception of distant rain squalls that +amounted to nothing in the general scheme. Then the horizon turned +black, and with incredible swiftness the dark clouds materialized out of +nothing, rolled high to the zenith like a wave, blotted out every last +vestige of brightness. A heavy oppressive still darkness breathed over +the earth. Then through the silence came a faraway soft drumming sound, +barely to be heard. As we bent our ears to catch this it grew louder and +louder, approaching at breakneck speed like a troop of horses. It became +a roar fairly terrifying in its mercilessly continued crescendo. At last +the deluge of rain burst actually as a relief. + +And what a deluge! Facing it we found difficulty in breathing. In six +seconds every stitch we wore was soaked through, and only the notebook, +tobacco, and matches bestowed craftily in the crown of the cork helmet +escaped. The visible world was dark and contracted. It seemed that +nothing but rain could anywhere exist; as though this storm must fill +all space to the horizon and beyond. Then it swept on and we found +ourselves steaming in bright sunlight. The dry flat prairie (if this +was the first shower for some time) had suddenly become a lake from the +surface of which projected bushes and clumps of grass. Every game trail +had become the water course of a swiftly running brook. + +But most pleasant were the evenings at Juja, when, safe indoors, we sat +and listened to the charge of the storm's wild horsemen, and the thunder +of its drumming on the tin roof. The onslaughts were as fierce and +abrupt as those of Cossacks, and swept by as suddenly. The roar died +away in the distance, and we could then hear the steady musical dripping +of waters. + +Pleasant it was also to walk out from Juja in almost any direction. The +compound, and the buildings and trees within it, soon dwindled in the +distances of the great flat plain. Herds of game were always in +sight, grazing, lying down, staring in our direction. The animals +were incredibly numerous. Some days they were fairly tame, and others +exceedingly wild, without any rhyme or reason. This shyness or the +reverse seemed not to be individual to one herd; but to be practically +universal. On a “wild day” everything was wild from the Lone Tree +to Long Juju. It would be manifestly absurd to guess at the reason. +Possibly the cause might be atmospheric or electrical; possibly days of +nervousness might follow nights of unusual activity by the lions; one +could invent a dozen possibilities. Perhaps the kongonis decided it. + +At Juja we got to know the kongonis even better than we had before. +They are comical, quizzical beasts, with long-nosed humorous faces, a +singularly awkward construction, a shambling gait; but with altruistic +dispositions and an ability to get over the ground at an extraordinary +speed. Every move is a joke; their expression is always one of grieved +but humorous astonishment. They quirk their heads sidewise or down and +stare at an intruder with the most comical air of skeptical wonder. +“Well, look who's here!” says the expression. + +“Pooh!” says the kongoni himself, after a good look, “pooh! pooh!” with +the most insulting inflection. + +He is very numerous and very alert. One or more of a grazing herd are +always perched as sentinels atop ant hills or similar small elevations. +On the slightest intimation of danger they give the alarm, whereupon the +herd makes off at once, gathering in all other miscellaneous game that +may be in the vicinity. They will go out of their way to do this, as +every African hunter knows. It immensely complicates matters; for the +sportsman must not only stalk his quarry, but he must stalk each and +every kongoni as well. Once, in another part of the country, C. and I +saw a kongoni leave a band of its own species far down to our right, +gallop toward us and across our front, pick up a herd of zebra we were +trying to approach and make off with them to safety. We cursed that +kongoni, but we admired him, for he deliberately ran out of safety into +danger for the purpose of warning those zebra. So seriously do they take +their job as policemen of the plains that it is very common for a lazy +single animal of another species to graze in a herd of kongonis simply +for the sake of protection. Wildebeeste are much given to this. + +The kongoni progresses by a series of long high bounds. While in +midair he half tucks up his feet, which gives him the appearance of an +automatic toy. This gait looks deliberate, but is really quite fast, as +the mounted sportsman discovers when he enters upon a vain pursuit. If +the horse is an especially good one, so that the kongoni feels himself +a trifle closely pressed, the latter stops bouncing and runs. Then he +simply fades away into the distance. + +These beasts are also given to chasing each other all over the +landscape. When a gentleman kongoni conceives a dislike for another +gentleman kongoni, he makes no concealment of his emotions, but marches +up and prods him in the ribs. The ensuing battle is usually fought +out very stubbornly with much feinting, parrying, clashing of the +lyre-shaped horns; and a good deal of crafty circling for a favourable +opening. As far as I was ever able to see not much real damage is +inflicted; though I could well imagine that only skilful fence prevented +unpleasant punctures in soft spots. After a time one or the other feels +himself weakening. He dashes strongly in, wheels while his antagonist is +braced, and makes off. The enemy pursues. Then, apparently, the chase +is on for the rest of the day. The victor is not content merely to drive +his rival out of the country; he wants to catch him. On that object he +is very intent; about as intent as the other fellow is of getting away. +I have seen two such beasts almost run over a dozen men who were making +no effort to keep out of sight. Long after honour is satisfied, indeed, +as it seems to me, long after the dictates of common decency would call +a halt that persistent and single-minded pursuer bounds solemnly and +conscientiously along in the wake of his disgusted rival. + +These and the zebra and wildebeeste were at Juja the most conspicuous +game animals. If they could not for the moment be seen from the veranda +of the house itself, a short walk to the gate was sufficient to reveal +many hundreds. Among them fed herds of the smaller Thompson's gazelle, +or “Tommies.” So small were they that only their heads could be seen +above the tall grass as they ran. + +To me there was never-ending fascination in walking out over those +sloppy plains in search of adventure, and in the pleasure of watching +the beasts. Scarcely less fascination haunted a stroll down the river +canyons or along the tops of the bluffs above them. Here the country was +broken into rocky escarpments in which were caves; was clothed with low +and scattered brush; or was wooded in the bottom lands. Naturally an +entirely different set of animals dwelt here; and in addition one was +often treated to the romance of surprise. Herds of impalla haunted these +edges; graceful creatures, trim and pretty with wide horns and beautiful +glowing red coats. Sometimes they would venture out on the open plains, +in a very compact band, ready to break back for cover at the slightest +alarm; but generally fed inside the fringe of bushes. Once from the +bluff above I saw a beautiful herd of over a hundred pacing decorously +along the river bottom below me, single file, the oldest buck at the +head, and the miscellaneous small buck bringing up the rear after the +does. I shouted at them. Immediately the solemn procession broke. They +began to leap, springing straight up into the air as though from a +released spring, or diving forward and upward in long graceful bounds +like dolphins at sea. These leaps were incredible. Several even jumped +quite over the backs of others; and all without a semblance of effort. + +Along the fringe of the river, too, dwelt the lordly waterbuck, +magnificent and proud as the stags of Landseer; and the tiny steinbuck +and duiker, no bigger than jack-rabbits, but perfect little deer for +all that. The incredibly plebeian wart-hog rooted about; and down in +the bottom lands were leopards. I knocked one off a rock one day. In +the river itself dwelt hippopotamuses and crocodiles. One of the latter +dragged under a yearling calf just below the house itself, and while +we were there. Besides these were of course such affairs as hyenas and +jackals, and great numbers of small game: hares, ducks, three kinds of +grouse, guinea fowl, pigeons, quail, and jack snipe, not to speak of a +variety of plover. + +In the drier extents of dry grass atop the bluffs the dance birds were +especially numerous; each with his dance ring nicely trodden out, each +leaping and falling rhythmically for hours at a time. Toward sunset +great flights of sand grouse swarmed across the yellowing sky from some +distant feeding ground. + +Near Juja I had one of the three experiences that especially impressed +on my mind the abundance of African big game. I had stalked and wounded +a wildebeeste across the N'derogo River, and had followed him a mile +or so afoot, hoping to be able to put in a finishing shot. As sometimes +happens the animal rather gained strength as time went on; so I +signalled for my horse, mounted, and started out to run him down. After +a quarter mile we began to pick up the game herds. Those directly in +our course ran straight away; other herds on either side, seeing them +running, came across in a slant to join them. Inside of a half mile I +was driving before me literally thousands of head of game of several +varieties. The dust rose in a choking cloud that fairly obscured the +landscape, and the drumming of the hooves was like the stampeding of +cattle. It was a wonderful sight. + +On the plains of Juja, also, I had my one real African Adventure, +when, as in the Sunday Supplements, I Stared Death in the Face-also +everlasting disgrace and much derision. We were just returning to the +farm after an afternoon's walk, and as we approached I began to look +around for much needed meat. A herd of zebra stood in sight; so leaving +Memba Sasa I began to stalk them. My usual weapon for this sort of thing +was the Springfield, for which I carried extra cartridges in my belt. On +this occasion, however, I traded with Memba Sasa for the 405, simply for +the purpose of trying it out. At a few paces over three hundred yards +I landed on the zebra, but did not knock him down. Then I set out to +follow. It was a long job and took me far, for again and again he joined +other zebra, when, of course, I could not tell one from t'other. My only +expedient was to frighten the lot. There upon the uninjured ones would +distance the one that was hurt. The latter kept his eye on me. Whenever +I managed to get within reasonable distance, I put up the rear sight of +the 405, and let drive. I heard every shot hit, and after each hit was +more than a little astonished to see the zebra still on his feet, and +still able to wobble on.* The fifth shot emptied the rifle. As I had no +more cartridges for this arm, I approached to within sixty yards, and +stopped to wait either for him to fall, or for a very distant Memba Sasa +to come up with more cartridges. Then the zebra waked up. He put his +ears back and came straight in my direction. This rush I took for a +blind death flurry, and so dodged off to one side, thinking that he +would of course go by me. Not at all! He swung around on the circle too, +and made after me. I could see that his ears were back, eyes blazing, +and his teeth snapping with rage. It was a malicious charge, and, as +such, with due deliberation, I offer it to sportsman's annals. As I had +no more cartridges I ran away as fast as I could go. Although I made +rather better time than ever I had attained to before, it was evident +that the zebra would catch me; and as the brute could paw, bite, and +kick, I did not much care for the situation. Just as he had nearly +reached me, and as I was trying to figure on what kind of a fight I +could put up with a clubbed rifle barrel, he fell dead. To be killed by +a lion is at least a dignified death; but to be mauled by a zebra! + +I am sorry I did not try out this heavy-calibred rifle oftener at long +range. It was a marvellously effective weapon at close quarters; but I +have an idea-but only a tentative idea-that above three hundred yards +its velocity is so reduced by air resistance against the big blunt +bullet as greatly to impair its hitting powers. + + +We generally got back from our walks or rides just before dark to find +the house gleaming with lights, a hot bath ready, and a tray of good +wet drinks next the easy chairs. There, after changing our clothes, we +sipped and read the papers-two months off the press, but fresh arrived +for all that-until a white-robed, dignified figure appeared in the +doorway to inform us that dinner was ready. Our ways were civilized and +soft, then, until the morrow when once again, perhaps, we went forth +into the African wilderness. + +Juja is a place of startling contrasts-of naked savages clipping formal +hedges, of windows opening from a perfectly appointed brilliantly +lighted dining-room to a night whence float the lost wails of hyenas or +the deep grumbling of lions, of cushioned luxurious chairs in reach +of many books, but looking out on hills where the game herds feed, +of comfortable beds with fine linen and soft blankets where one lies +listening to the voices of an African night, or the weirder minor house +noises whose origin and nature no man could guess, of tennis courts and +summer houses, of lawns and hammocks, of sundials and clipped hedges +separated only by a few strands of woven wire from fields identical with +those in which roamed the cave men of the Pleistocene. But to Billy was +reserved the most ridiculous contrast of all. Her bedroom opened to a +veranda a few feet above a formal garden. This was a very formal garden, +with a sundial, gravelled walks, bordered flower beds, and clipped +border hedges. One night she heard a noise outside. Slipping on a warm +wrap and seizing her trusty revolver she stole out on the veranda to +investigate. She looked over the veranda rail. There just below her, +trampling the flower beds, tracking the gravel walks, endangering the +sundial, stood a hippopotamus! + +We had neighbours six or seven miles away. At times they came down to +spend the night and luxuriate in the comforts of civilization. They were +a Lady A., and her nephew, and a young Scotch acquaintance the nephew +had taken into partnership. They had built themselves circular houses +of papyrus reeds with conical thatched roofs and earth floors, had +purchased ox teams and gathered a dozen or so Kikuyus, and were engaged +in breaking a farm in the wilderness. The life was rough and hard, and +Lady A. and her nephew gently bred, but they seemed to be having quite +cheerfully the time of their lives. The game furnished them meat, as it +did all of us, and they hoped in time that their labours would make the +land valuable and productive. Fascinating as was the life, it was also +one of many deprivations. At Juja were a number of old copies of Life, +the pretty girls in which so fascinated the young men that we broke the +laws of propriety by presenting them, though they did not belong to us. +C., the nephew, was of the finest type of young Englishman, clean +cut, enthusiastic, good looking, with an air of engaging vitality +and optimism. His partner, of his own age, was an insufferable youth. +Brought up in some small Scottish valley, his outlook had never +widened. Because he wanted to buy four oxen at a cheaper price, he tried +desperately to abrogate quarantine regulations. If he had succeeded, he +would have made a few rupees, but would have introduced disease in his +neighbours' herds. This consideration did not affect him. He was much +given to sneering at what he could not understand; and therefore, a +great deal met with his disapproval. His reading had evidently brought +him down only to about the middle sixties; and affairs at that date were +to him still burning questions. Thus he would declaim vehemently over +the Alabama claims. + +“I blush with shame,” he would cry, “when I think of England's attitude +in that matter.” + +We pointed out that the dispute had been amicably settled by the best +minds of the time, had passed between the covers of history, and had +given way in immediate importance to several later topics. + +“This vacillating policy,” he swept on, “annoys me. For my part, I +should like to see so firm a stand taken on all questions that in any +part of the world, whenever a man, and wherever a man, said 'I am an +Englishman? everybody else would draw back!'” + +He was an incredible person. However, I was glad to see him; he and a +few others of his kind have consoled me for a number of Americans I have +met abroad. Lady A., with the tolerant philosophy of her class, seemed +merely amused. I have often since wondered how this ill-assorted +partnership turned out. + +Two other neighbours of ours dropped in once or twice-twenty-six miles +on bicycles, on which they could ride only a portion of the distance. +They had some sort of a ranch up in the Ithanga Hills; and were two of +the nicest fellows one would want to meet, brimful of energy, game for +anything, and had so good a time always that the grumpiest fever could +not prevent every one else having a good time too. Once they rode +on their bicycles forty miles to Nairobi, danced half the night at +a Government House ball, rode back in the early morning, and did an +afternoon's plowing! They explained this feat by pointing out most +convincingly that the ground was just right for plowing, but they did +not want to miss the ball! + +Occasionally a trim and dapper police official would drift in on +horseback looking for native criminals; and once a safari came by. +Twelve miles away was the famous Kamiti Farm of Heatly, where Roosevelt +killed his buffalo; and once or twice Heatly himself, a fine chap, came +to see us. Also just before I left with Duirs for a lion hunt on Kapiti, +Lady Girouard, wife of the Governor, and her nephew and niece rode out +for a hunt. In the African fashion, all these people brought their own +personal servants. It makes entertaining easy. Nobody knows where all +these boys sleep; but they manage to tuck away somewhere, and always +show up after a mysterious system of their own whenever there is +anything to be done. + +We stayed at Juja a little over three weeks. Then most reluctantly said +farewell and returned to Nairobi in preparation for a long trip to the +south. + + + + +XXIX. CHAPTER THE LAST + +With our return from Juja to Nairobi for a breathing space, this volume +comes to a logical conclusion. In it I have tried to give a fairly +comprehensive impression-it could hardly be a picture of so large a +subject-of a portion of East Equatorial Africa, its animals, and its +people. Those who are sufficiently interested will have an opportunity +in a succeeding volume of wandering with us even farther afield. The +low jungly coast region; the fierce desert of the Serengetti; the swift +sullen rhinoceros-haunted stretches of the Tsavo; Nairobi, the strangest +mixture of the twentieth centuries A.D. and B.C.; Mombasa with its wild, +barbaric passionate ebb and flow of life, of colour, of throbbing sound, +the great lions of the Kapiti Plains, the Thirst of the Loieta, the +Masai spearmen, the long chase for the greater kudu; the wonderful, high +unknown country beyond the Narossara and other affairs will there be +detailed. If the reader of this volume happens to want more, there he +will find it. + + + + +APPENDIX I + +Most people are very much interested in how hot it gets in such tropics +as we traversed. Unfortunately it is very difficult to tell them. +Temperature tables have very little to do with the matter, for humidity +varies greatly. On the Serengetti at lower reaches of the Guaso Nyero +I have seen it above 110 degrees. It was hot, to be sure, but not +exhaustingly so. On the other hand, at 90 or 95 degrees the low coast +belt I have had the sweat run from me literally in streams; so that a +muddy spot formed wherever I stood still. In the highlands, moreover, +the nights were often extremely cold. I have recorded night temperatures +as low as 40 at 7000 feet of elevation; and noon temperatures as low 65. + +Of more importance than the actual or sensible temperature of the air +is the power of the sun's rays. At all times of year this is practically +constant; for the orb merely swings a few degrees north and south of +the equator, and the extreme difference in time between its risings or +settings is not more than twenty minutes. This power is also practically +constant whatever the temperature of the air and is dangerous even on a +cloudy day, when the heat waves are effectually screened off, but when +the actinic rays are as active as ever. For this reason the protection +of helmet and spine pad should never be omitted, no matter what the +condition of the weather, between nine o'clock and four. A very brief +exposure is likely to prove fatal. It should be added that some people +stand these actinic rays better than others. + +Such being the case, mere temperature tables could have little interest +to the general reader. I append a few statistics, selected from many, +and illustrative of the different conditions. + + + Locality. Elevation 6am noon 8pm Apparent conditions + Coast --- 80 90 76 Very hot and sticky + Isiola River 2900 65 94 84 Hot but not exhausting + Tans River 3350 68 98 79 Hot but not exhausting + Near Meru 5450 62 80 70 Very pleasant + Serengetti Plains 2200 78 106 86 Hot and humid + Narossara River 5450 54 89 69 Very pleasant + Narossara Mts. 7400 42 80 50 Chilly + Narossara Mts. 6450 40 62 52 Cold + + + + +APPENDIX II + +GAME ANIMALS COLLECTED + + Lion Bush pig Grant's gazelle + Serval cat Baboon Thompson's gazelle + Cheetah Colobus Gerenuk gazelle + Black-backed jackal Hippopotamus Coke's hartebeests + Silver jackal Rhinoceros Jackson's hartebeests + Striped hyena Crocodile Neuman's hartebeests + Spotted hyena Python Chandler's reedbuck + Fennec fox Ward's zebra Bohur reedbuck + Honey badger Grevy's zebra Beisa ox + Aardewolf Notata gazelle Fringe-eared oryx + Wart-hog Roberts' gazelle Duiker + Waterbuck Klipspringer Harvey's duiker + Sing-sing Dik-dik Greater kudu + Oribi (3 varieties) Wildebeeste Lesser kudu + Eland Roosevelt's wildebeests Sable antelope + Roan antelope Buffalo + Bushbuck Topi + + Total, fifty-four kinds + + +GAME BIRDS COLLECTED + + Marabout Gadwall Lesser bustard + Egret European stork Guinea fowl + Glossy ibis Quail Giant guinea fowl + Egyptian goose Sand grouse Green pigeon + White goose Francolin Blue pigeon + English snipe Spur fowl Dove (2 species) + Mallard duck Greater bustard + + Total, twenty-two kinds + + + + +APPENDIX III + +For the benefit of the sportsman and gun crank who want plain facts and +no flapdoodle, the following statistics are offered. To the lay reader +this inclusion will be incomprehensible; but I know my gun crank as I am +one myself! + +Army Springfield, model 1903 to take the 1906 cartridge, shooting the +Spitzer sharp point bullet. Stocked to suit me by Ludwig Wundhammer, +and fitted with Sheard gold bead front sight and Lyman aperture +receiver sight. With this I did most my shooting, as the trajectory was +remarkably good, and the killing power remarkable. Tried out both the +old-fashioned soft point bullets and the sharp Spitzer bullets, but find +the latter far the more effective. In fact the paralyzing shock given +by the Spitzer is almost beyond belief. African animals are notably +tenacious of life; but the Springfield dropped nearly half the animals +dead with one shot; a most unusual record, as every sportsman will +recognize. The bullets seemed on impact always to flatten slightly at +the base, the point remaining intact-to spin widely on the axis, and +to plunge off at an angle. This action of course depended on the high +velocity. The requisite velocity, however seemed to keep up within all +shooting ranges. A kongoni I killed at 638 paces (measured), and another +at 566 paces both exhibited this action of the bullet. I mention these +ranges because I have seen the statement in print that the remaining +velocity beyond 350 yards would not be sufficient in this arm to prevent +the bullet passing through cleanly. I should also hasten to add that I +do not habitually shoot at game at the above ranges; but did so in these +two instances for the precise purpose of testing the arm. Metal fouling +did not bother me at all, though I had been led to expect trouble from +it. The weapon was always cleaned with water so boiling hot that the +heat of the barrel dried it. When occasionally flakes of metal fouling +became visible a Marble brush always sufficed to remove enough of it. It +was my habit to smear the bullets with mobilubricant before placing +them in the magazine. This was not as much of a nuisance as it sounds. A +small tin box about the size of a pill box lasted me the whole trip; and +only once did I completely empty the magazine at one time. On my return +I tested the rifle very thoroughly for accuracy. In spite of careful +cleaning the barrel was in several places slightly corroded. For this +the climate was responsible. The few small pittings, however, did not +seem in any way to have affected the accuracy, as the rifle shot the +following groups: 3-1/2 inches at 200 yards; 7-1/4 inches at 300 yards; +and 11-1/2 inches at 500 yards.* + + * It shot one five-shot 1-2/3 inch group at 200 yds., and + several others at all distances less than the figures given, + but I am convinced these must have been largely accidental. + + +These groups were not made from a machine rest, however; as none was +available. The complete record with this arm for my whole stay in Africa +was 307 hits out of 395 cartridges fired, representing 185 head of game +killed. Most of this shooting was for meat and represented also all +sorts of “varmints” as well. + +The 405 Winchester. This weapon was sighted like the Springfield, and +was constantly in the field as my second gun. For lions it could not be +beaten; as it was very accurate, delivered a hard blow, and held +five cartridges. Beyond 125 to 150 yards one had to begin to guess at +distance, so for ordinary shooting I preferred the Springfield. In +thick brush country, however, where one was likely to come suddenly +on rhinoceroes, but where one wanted to be ready always for desirable +smaller game, the Winchester was just the thing. It was short, handy, +and reliable. One experience with a zebra 300-350 yards has made me +question whether at long (hunting) ranges the remaining velocity of the +big blunt nosed bullet is not seriously reduced; but as to that I have +not enough data for a final conclusion. I have no doubt, however, that +at such ranges, and beyond, the little Springfield has more shocking +power. Of course at closer ranges the Winchester is by far the more +powerful. I killed one rhinoceros with the 405, one buffalo and one +hippo; but should consider it too light for an emergency gun against +the larger dangerous animals, such as buffalo and rhinoceros. If one has +time for extreme accuracy, and can pick the shot, it is plenty big; but +I refer now to close quarters in a hurry. I had no trouble whatever with +the mechanism of this arm; nor have I ever had trouble with any of the +lever actions, although I have used them for many years. As regards +speed of fire the controversy between the lever and bolt action +advocates seems to me foolish in the extreme. Either action can be fired +faster than it should be fired in the presence of game. It is my belief +that any man, no matter how practised or how cool, can stampede himself +beyond his best accuracy by pumping out his shots too rapidly. This is +especially true in the face of charging dangerous game. So firmly do I +believe this that I generally take the rifle from my shoulder between +each shot. Even aimed rapid fire is of no great value as compared with +better aimed slower fire. The first bullet delivers to an animal's +nervous system about all the shock it can absorb. If the beast is not +thereby knocked down and held down, subsequent shots can accomplish that +desirable result only by reaching a vital spot or by tearing tissue. +As an example of this I might instance a waterbuck into which I saw +my companion empty five heavy 465 and double 500 bullets from cordite +rifles before it fell! Thus if the game gets to its feet after the first +shock, it is true that the hunter will often empty into it six or seven +more bullets without apparent result, unless he aims carefully for a +centrally vital point. It follows that therefore a second shot aimed +with enough care to land it in that point is worth a lot more than a +half dozen delivered in three or four seconds with only the accuracy +necessary to group decently at very short range, even if all of them +hit the beast. I am perfectly aware that this view will probably +be disputed; but it is the result of considerable experience, close +observation and real interest in the game. The whole record of the +Winchester was 56 hits out of 70 cartridges fired; representing 27 head +of game. + +The 465 Holland & Holland double cordite rifle. This beautiful weapon, +built and balanced like a fine hammerless shotgun, was fitted with open +sights. It was of course essentially a close range emergency gun, but +was capable of accurate work at a distance. I killed one buffalo dead +with it, across a wide canyon, with the 300-yard leaf up on the +back sight. Its game list however was limited to rhinoceroses, +hippopotamuses, buffaloes and crocodiles. The recoil in spite of its +weight of twelve and one half pounds, was tremendous; but unnoticeable +when I was shooting at any of these brutes. Its total record was 31 +cartridges fired with 29 hits representing 13 head of game. + +The conditions militating against marksmanship are often severe. Hard +work in the tropics is not the most steadying regime in the world, and +outside a man's nerves, he is often bothered by queer lights, and the +effects of the mirage that swirls from the sun-heated plain. The ranges, +too, are rather long. I took the trouble to pace out about every kill, +and find that antelope in the plains averaged 245 yards; with a maximum +of 638 yards, while antelope in covered country averaged 148 yards, with +a maximum of 311. + + + + +APPENDIX IV. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA + +IN WHICH HE APPEARS AS DIFFERENT FROM THE ENGLISHMAN + +It is always interesting to play the other fellow's game his way, and +then, in light of experience, to see wherein our way and his way modify +each other. + +The above proposition here refers to camping. We do considerable of it +in our country, especially in our North and West. After we have been +at it for some time, we evolve a method of our own. The basis of that +method is to do without; to GO LIGHT. At first even the best of us will +carry too much plunder, but ten years of philosophy and rainstorms, +trails and trials, will bring us to an irreducible minimum. A party of +three will get along with two pack horses, say; or, on a harder trip, +each will carry the necessities on his own back. To take just as little +as is consistent with comfort is to play the game skilfully. Any article +must pay in use for its transportation. + +With this ideal deeply ingrained by the test of experience, the American +camper is appalled by the caravan his British cousins consider necessary +for a trip into the African back country. His said cousin has, perhaps, +very kindly offered to have his outfit ready for him when he arrives. +He does arrive to find from one hundred to one hundred and fifty men +gathered as his personal attendants. + +“Great Scot!” he cries, “I want to go camping; I don't want to invade +anybody's territory. Why the army?” + +He discovers that these are porters, to carry his effects. + +“What effects?” he demands, bewildered. As far as he knows, he has +two guns, some ammunition, and a black tin box, bought in London, and +half-filled with extra clothes, a few medicines, a thermometer, and +some little personal knick-knacks. He has been wondering what else he +is going to put in to keep things from rattling about. Of course he +expected besides these to take along a little plain grub, and some +blankets, and a frying pan and kettle or so. + +The English friend has known several Americans, so he explains +patiently. + +“I know this seems foolish to you,” he says, “but you must remember you +are under the equator and you must do things differently here. As long +as you keep fit you are safe; but if you get run down a bit you'll go. +You've got to do yourself well, down here, rather better than you have +to in any other climate. You need all the comfort you can get; and you +want to save yourself all you can.” + +This has a reasonable sound and the American does not yet know the game. +Recovering from his first shock, he begins to look things over. There +is a double tent, folding camp chair, folding easy chair, folding table, +wash basin, bath tub, cot, mosquito curtains, clothes hangers; there are +oil lanterns, oil carriers, two loads of mysterious cooking utensils and +cook camp stuff; there is an open fly, which his friend explains is his +dining tent; and there are from a dozen to twenty boxes standing in a +row, each with its padlock. “I didn't go in for luxury,” apologizes the +English friend. “Of course we can easily add anything you want but I +remember you wrote me that you wanted to travel light.” + +“What are those?” our American inquires, pointing to the locked boxes. + +He learns that they are chop boxes, containing food and supplies. At +this he rises on his hind legs and paws the air. + +“Food!” he shrieks. “Why, man alive, I'm alone, and I am only going to +be out three months! I can carry all I'll ever eat in three months in +one of those boxes.” + +But the Englishman patiently explains. You cannot live on “bacon and +beans” in this country, so to speak. You must do yourself rather well, +you know, to keep in condition. And you cannot pack food in bags, +it must be tinned. And then, of course, such things as your sparklet +siphons and lime juice require careful packing-and your champagne. + +“Champagne,” breathes the American in awestricken tones. + +“Exactly, dear boy, an absolute necessity. After a touch of sun there's +nothing picks you up better than a mouthful of fizz. It's used as a +medicine, not a drink, you understand.” + +The American reflects again that this is the other fellow's game, and +that the other fellow has been playing it for some time, and that he +ought to know. But he cannot yet see why the one hundred and fifty men. +Again the Englishman explains. There is the Headman to run the show. +Correct: we need him. Then there are four askaris. What are they? Native +soldiers. No, you won't be fighting anything; but they keep the men +going, and act as sort of sub-foremen in bossing the complicated work. +Next is your cook, and your own valet and that of your horse. Also your +two gunbearers. + +“Hold on!” cries our friend. “I have only two guns, and I'm going to +carry one myself.” + +But this, he learns, is quite impossible. It is never done. It is +absolutely necessary, in this climate, to avoid all work. + +That makes how many? Ten already, and there seem to be three tent +loads, one bed load, one chair and table load, one lantern load, two +miscellaneous loads, two cook loads, one personal box, and fifteen chop +boxes-total twenty-six, plus the staff, as above, thirty-six. Why all +the rest of the army? + +Very simple: these thirty-six men have, according to regulation, seven +tents, and certain personal effects, and they must have “potio” or a +ration of one and a half pounds per diem. These things must be carried +by more men. + +“I see,” murmurs the American, crushed, “and these more men have more +tents and more potio, which must also be carried. It's like the House +that Jack Built.” + +So our American concludes still once again that the other fellow knows +his own game, and starts out. He learns he has what is called a “modest +safari”; and spares a fleeting wonder as to what a really elaborate +safari must be. The procession takes the field. He soon sees the value +of the four askaris-the necessity of whom he has secretly doubted. +Without their vigorous seconding the headman would have a hard time +indeed. Also, when he observes the labour of tent-making, packing, +washing, and general service performed by his tent boy, he abandons the +notion that that individual could just as well take care of the horse as +well, especially as the horse has to have all his grass cut and brought +to him. At evening our friend has a hot bath, a long cool fizzly drink +of lime juice and soda; he puts on the clean clothes laid out for him, +assumes soft mosquito boots, and sits down to dinner. This is served +to him in courses, and on enamel ware. Each course has its proper-sized +plate and cutlery. He starts with soup, goes down through tinned +whitebait or other fish, an entree, a roast, perhaps a curry, a sweet, +and small coffee. He is certainly being “done well,” and he enjoys the +comfort of it. + +There comes a time when he begins to wonder a little. It is all very +pleasant, of course, and perhaps very necessary; they all tell him it +is. But, after all, it is a little galling to the average man to think +that of him. Your Englishman doesn't mind that; he enjoys being taken +care of: but the sportsman of American training likes to stand on his +own feet as far as he is able and conditions permit. Besides, it is +expensive. Besides that, it is a confounded nuisance, especially when +potio gives out and more must be sought, near or far. Then, if he is +wise, he begins to do a little figuring on his own account. + +My experience was very much as above. Three of us went out for eleven +weeks with what was considered a very “modest” safari indeed. It +comprised one hundred and eighteen men. My fifth and last trip, also +with two companions, was for three months. Our personnel consisted, all +told, forty men. + +In essentials the Englishman is absolutely right. One cannot camp in +Africa as one would at home. The experimenter would be dead in a month. +In his application of that principle, however, he seems to the American +point of view to overshoot. Let us examine his proposition in terms of +the essentials-food, clothing, shelter. There is no doubt but that a man +must keep in top condition as far as possible; and that, to do so, he +must have plenty of good food. He can never do as we do on very hard +trips at home: take a little tea, sugar, coffee, flour, salt, oatmeal. +But on the other hand, he certainly does not need a five-course dinner +every night, nor a complete battery of cutlery, napery and table ware to +eat it from. Flour, sugar, oatmeal, tea and coffee, rice, beans, onions, +curry, dried fruits, a little bacon, and some dehydrated vegetables +will do him very well indeed-with what he can shoot. These will pack in +waterproof bags very comfortably. In addition to feeding himself well, +he finds he must not sleep next to the ground, he must have a hot bath +every day, but never a cold one, and he must shelter himself with a +double tent against the sun. + +Those are the absolute necessities of the climate. In other words, if +he carries a double tent, a cot, a folding bath; and gives a little +attention to a properly balanced food supply, he has met the situation. + +If, in addition, he takes canned goods, soda siphons, lime juice, easy +chairs and all the rest of the paraphernalia, he is merely using a basic +principle as an excuse to include sheer luxuries. In further extenuation +of this he is apt to argue that porters are cheap, and that it costs +but little more to carry these extra comforts. Against this argument, of +course, I have nothing to say. It is the inalienable right of every +man to carry all the luxuries he wants. My point is that the average +American sportsman does not want them, and only takes them because he is +overpersuaded that these things are not luxuries, but necessities. For, +mark you, he could take the same things into the Sierras or the North-by +paying; but he doesn't. + +I repeat, it is the inalienable right of any man to travel as +luxuriously as he pleases. But by the same token it is not his right to +pretend that luxuries are necessities. That is to put himself into the +same category with the man who always finds some other excuse for taking +a drink than the simple one that he wants it. + +The Englishman's point of view is that he objects to “pigging it,” as +he says. “Pigging it” means changing your home habits in any way. If you +have been accustomed to eating your sardines after a meal, and somebody +offers them to you first, that is “pigging it.” In other words, as +nearly as I can make out, “pigging it” does not so much mean doing +things in an inadequate fashion as DOING THEM DIFFERENTLY. Therefore, +the Englishman in the field likes to approximate as closely as may be +his life in town, even if it takes one hundred and fifty men to do it. +Which reduces the “pigging it” argument to an attempt at condemnation by +calling names. + +The American temperament, on the contrary, being more experimental +and independent, prefers to build anew upon its essentials. Where the +Englishman covers the situation blanket-wise with his old institutions, +the American prefers to construct new institutions on the necessities of +the case. He objects strongly to being taken care of too completely. He +objects strongly to losing the keen enjoyment of overcoming difficulties +and enduring hardships. The Englishman by habit and training has no such +objections. He likes to be taken care of, financially, personally, and +everlastingly. That is his ideal of life. If he can be taken care of +better by employing three hundred porters and packing eight tin trunks +of personal effects-as I have seen it done-he will so employ and take. +That is all right: he likes it. + +But the American does not like it. A good deal of the fun for him is in +going light, in matching himself against his environment. It is no +fun to him to carry his complete little civilization along with him, +laboriously. If he must have cotton wool, let it be as little cotton +wool as possible. He likes to be comfortable; but he likes to be +comfortable with the minimum of means. Striking just the proper balance +somehow adds to his interest in the game. And how he DOES object to +that ever-recurring thought-that he is such a helpless mollusc that it +requires a small regiment to get him safely around the country! + +Both means are perfectly legitimate, of course; and neither view is +open to criticism. All either man is justified in saying is that he, +personally, wouldn't get much fun out of doing it the other way. As a +matter of fact, human nature generally goes beyond its justifications +and is prone to criticise. The Englishman waxes a trifle caustic on the +subject of “pigging it”; and the American indulges in more than a bit +of sarcasm on the subject of “being led about Africa like a dog on a +string.” + +By some such roundabout mental process as the above the American comes +to the conclusion that he need not necessarily adopt the other fellow's +method of playing this game. His own method needs modification, but it +will do. He ventures to leave out the tables and easy chair, takes a +camp stool and eats off a chop box. To the best of his belief his health +does not suffer from this. He gets on with a camper's allowance of +plate, cup and cutlery, and so cuts out a load and a half of assorted +kitchen utensils and table ware. He even does without a tablecloth and +napkins! He discards the lime juice and siphons, and purchases a +canvas evaporation bag to cool the water. He fires one gunbearer, and +undertakes the formidable physical feat of carrying one of his rifles +himself. And, above all, he modifies that grub list. The purchase of +waterproof bags gets rid of a lot of tin: the staple groceries do quite +as well as London fancy stuff. Golden syrup takes the place of all the +miscellaneous jams, marmalades and other sweets. The canned goods go +by the board. He lays in a stock of dried fruit. At the end, he is +possessed of a grub list but little different from that of his Rocky +Mountain trips. Some few items he has cut down; and some he has +substituted; but bulk and weight are the same. For his three months' +trip he has four or five chop boxes all told. + +And then suddenly he finds that thus he has made a reduction all along +the line. Tent load, two men; grub and kitchen, five men; personal, one +man; bed, one man; miscellaneous, one or two. There is now no need for +headmen and askaris to handle this little lot. Twenty more to carry food +for the men-he is off with a quarter of the number of his first “modest +safari.” + +You who are sportsmen and are not going to Africa, as is the case with +most, will perhaps read this, because we are always interested in how +the other fellow does it. To the few who are intending an exploration +of the dark continent this concentration of a year's experience may be +valuable. Remember to sleep off the ground, not to starve yourself, +to protect yourself from the sun, to let negroes do all hard work +but marching and hunting. Do these things your own way, using your +common-sense on how to get at it. You'll be all right. + +That, I conceive, covers the case. The remainder of your equipment has +to do with camp affairs, and merely needs listing. The question here is +not of the sort to get, but of what to take. The tents, cooking affairs, +etc., are well adapted to the country. In selecting your tent, however, +you will do very well to pick out one whose veranda fly reaches fairly +to the ground, instead of stopping halfway. + + 1 tent and ground sheet + 1 folding cot and cork mattress, + 1 pillow, 3 single blankets + 1 combined folding bath and ashstand (“X” brand) + 1 camp stool + 3 folding candle lanterns + 1 gallon turpentine + 3 lbs. alum + 1 river rope + Sail needles and twine + 3 pangas (native tools for chopping and digging) + Cook outfit (select these yourself, and cut out the extras) + 2 axes (small) + Plenty laundry soap + Evaporation bag + 2 pails + 10 yards cotton cloth (“Mericani”) + +These things, your food, your porters' outfits and what trade goods you +may need are quite sufficient. You will have all you want, and not too +much. If you take care of yourself, you ought to keep in good health. +Your small outfit permits greater mobility than does that of the English +cousin, infinitely less nuisance and expense. Furthermore, you feel that +once more you are “next to things,” instead of “being led about Africa +like a dog on a string.” + + + + +APPENDIX V. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA + +WHAT HE SHOULD TAKE + +Before going to Africa I read as many books as I could get hold of on +the subject, some of them by Americans. In every case the authors have +given a chapter detailing the necessary outfit. Invariably they have +followed the Englishman's ideas almost absolutely. Nobody has ventured +to modify those ideas in any essential manner. Some have deprecatingly +ventured to remark that it is as well to leave out the tinned carfare-if +you do not like carfare; but that is as far as they care to go. The +lists are those of the firms who make a business of equipping caravans. +The heads of such firms are generally old African travellers. They +furnish the equipment their customers demand; and as English sportsmen +generally all demand the same thing, the firms end by issuing a printed +list of essentials for shooting parties in Africa, including carfare. +Travellers follow the lists blindly, and later copy them verbatim into +their books. Not one has thought to empty out the whole bag of tricks, +to examine them in the light of reason, and to pick out what a man of +American habits, as contrasted to one of English habits, would like to +have. This cannot be done a priori; it requires the test of experience +to determine how to meet, in our own way, the unusual demands of climate +and conditions. + +And please note, when the heads of these equipment firms, these old +African travellers, take the field for themselves, they pay no attention +whatever to their own printed lists of “essentials.” + +Now, premising that the English sportsman has, by many years' +experience, worked out just what he likes to take into the field; and +assuring you solemnly that his ideas are not in the least the ideas of +American sportsman, let us see if we cannot do something for ourselves. + +At present the American has either to take over in toto the English +idea, which is not adapted to him, and is-TO HIM-a nuisance, or to go it +blind, without experience except that acquired in a temperate climate, +which is dangerous. I am not going to copy out the English list again, +even for comparison. I have not the space; and if curious enough, you +can find it in any book on modern African travel. Of course I realize +well that few Americans go to Africa; but I also realize well that +the sportsman is a crank, a wild and eager enthusiast over items of +equipment anywhere. He-and I am thinking emphatically of him-would +avidly devour the details of the proper outfit for the gentle art of +hunting the totally extinct whiffenpoof. + +Let us begin, first of all, with: + +Personal Equipment Clothes. On the top of your head you must have a sun +helmet. Get it of cork, not of pith. The latter has a habit of melting +unobtrusively about your ears when it rains. A helmet in brush is the +next noisiest thing to a circus band, so it is always well to have, +also, a double terai. This is not something to eat. It is a wide +felt hat, and then another wide felt hat on top of that. The +vertical-rays-of-the-tropical-sun (pronounced as one word to save time +after you have heard and said it a thousand times) are supposed to get +tangled and lost somewhere between the two hats. It is not, however, a +good contraption to go in all day when the sun is strong. + +As underwear you want the lightest Jaeger wool. Doesn't sound well for +tropics, but it is an essential. You will sweat enough anyway, even if +you get down to a brass wire costume like the natives. It is when you +stop in the shade, or the breeze, or the dusk of evening, that the +trouble comes. A chill means trouble, SURE. Two extra suits are all you +want. There is no earthly sense in bringing more. Your tent boy washes +them out whenever he can lay hands on them-it is one of his harmless +manias. + +Your shirt should be of the thinnest brown flannel. Leather the +shoulders, and part way down the upper arm, with chamois. This is to +protect your precious garment against the thorns when you dive through +them. On the back you have buttons sewed wherewith to attach a spine +pad. Before I went to Africa I searched eagerly for information or +illustration of a spine pad. I guessed what it must be for, and to an +extent what it must be like, but all writers maintained a conservative +reticence as to the thing itself. Here is the first authorized +description. A spine pad is a quilted affair in consistency like the +things you are supposed to lift hot flat-irons with. On the outside it +is brown flannel, like the shirt; on the inside it is a gaudy orange +colour. The latter is not for aesthetic effect, but to intercept actinic +rays. It is eight or ten inches wide, is shaped to button close up under +your collar, and extends halfway down your back. In addition it is well +to wear a silk handkerchief around the neck; as the spine and back of +the head seem to be the most vulnerable to the sun. + +For breeches, suit yourself as to material. It will have to be very +tough, and of fast colour. The best cut is the “semi-riding,” loose +at the knees, which should be well faced with soft leather, both for +crawling, and to save the cloth in grass and low brush. One pair ought +to last four months, roughly speaking. You will find a thin pair of +ordinary khaki trousers very comfortable as a change for wear about +camp. In passing I would call your attention to “shorts.” Shorts are +loose, bobbed off khaki breeches, like knee drawers. With them are worn +puttees or leather leggings, and low boots. The knees are bare. They are +much affected by young Englishmen. I observed them carefully at every +opportunity, and my private opinion is that man has rarely managed to +invent as idiotically unfitted a contraption for the purpose in hand. +In a country teeming with poisonous insects, ticks, fever-bearing +mosquitoes; in a country where vegetation is unusually well armed with +thorns, spines and hooks, mostly poisonous; in a country where, oftener +than in any other a man is called upon to get down on his hands and +knees and crawl a few assorted abrading miles, it would seem an obvious +necessity to protect one's bare skin as much as possible. The only +reason given for these astonishing garments is that they are cooler and +freer to walk in. That I can believe. But they allow ticks and other +insects to crawl up, mosquitoes to bite, thorns to tear, and assorted +troubles to enter. And I can vouch by experience that ordinary breeches +are not uncomfortably hot or tight. Indeed, one does not get especially +hot in the legs anyway. I noticed that none of the old-time hunters like +Cuninghame or Judd wore shorts. The real reason is not that they are +cool, but that they are picturesque. Common belief to the contrary, your +average practical, matter-of-fact Englishman loves to dress up. I knew +one engaged in farming-picturesque farming-in our own West, who used +to appear at afternoon tea in a clean suit of blue overalls! It is a +harmless amusement. Our own youths do it, also, substituting chaps for +shorts, perhaps. I am not criticising the spirit in them; but merely +trying to keep mistaken shorts off you. + +For leg gear I found that nothing could beat our American combination of +high-laced boots and heavy knit socks. Leather leggings are noisy, and +the rolled puttees hot and binding. Have your boots ten or twelve inches +high, with a flap to buckle over the tie of the laces, with soles of the +mercury-impregnated leather called “elk hide,” and with small Hungarian +hobs. Your tent boy will grease these every day with “dubbin,” of +which you want a good supply. It is not my intention to offer free +advertisements generally, but I wore one pair of boots all the time I +was in Africa, through wet, heat, and long, long walking. They were +in good condition when I gave them away finally, and had not started a +stitch. They were made by that excellent craftsman, A. A. Cutter, of +Eau Claire, Wis., and he deserves and is entirely welcome to this puff. +Needless to remark, I have received no especial favours from Mr. Cutter. + +Six pairs of woollen socks, knit by hand, if possible-will be enough. +For evening, when you come in, I know nothing better than a pair of very +high moosehide moccasins. They should, however, be provided with thin +soles against the stray thorn, and should reach well above the ankle by +way of defence against the fever mosquito. That festive insect carries +on a surreptitious guerrilla warfare low down. The English “mosquito +boot” is simply an affair like a riding boot, made of suede leather, +with thin soles. It is most comfortable. My objection is that it +is unsubstantial and goes to pieces in a very brief time even under +ordinary evening wear about camp. + +You will also want a coat. In American camping I have always maintained +the coat is a useless garment. There one does his own work to a large +extent. When at work or travel the coat is in the way. When in camp +the sweater or buckskin shirt is handier, and more easily carried. In +Africa, however, where the other fellow does most of the work, a coat +is often very handy. Do not make the mistake of getting an unlined +light-weight garment. When you want it at all, you want it warm and +substantial. Stick on all the pockets possible, and have them button +securely. + +For wet weather there is nothing to equal a long and voluminous cape. +Straps crossing the chest and around the waist permit one to throw it +off the shoulders to shoot. It covers the hands, the rifle-most of the +little horses or mules one gets out there. One can sleep in or on it, +and it is a most effective garment against heavy winds. One suit of +pajamas is enough, considering your tent boy's commendable mania for +laundry work. Add handkerchiefs and you are fixed. + +You will wear most of the above, and put what remains in your “officer's +box.” This is a thin steel, air-tight affair with a wooden bottom, and +is the ticket for African work. + +Sporting. Pick out your guns to suit yourself. You want a light one and +a heavy one. + +When I came to send out my ammunition, I was forced again to take the +other fellow's experience. I was told by everybody that I should bring +plenty, that it was better to have too much than too little, etc. I +rather thought so myself, and accordingly shipped a trifle over 1,500 +rounds of small bore cartridges. Unfortunately, I never got into the +field with any of my numerous advisers on this point, so cannot state +their methods from first-hand information. Inductive reasoning leads me +to believe that they consider it unsportsmanlike to shoot at a standing +animal at all, or at one running nearer than 250 yards. Furthermore, it +is etiquette to continue firing until the last cloud of dust has died +down on the distant horizon. Only thus can I conceive of getting rid +of that amount of ammunition. In eight months of steady shooting, +for example-shooting for trophies, as well as to feed a safari of +fluctuating numbers, counting jackals, marabout and such small trash-I +got away with 395 rounds of small bore ammunition and about 100 of +large. This accounted for 225 kills. That should give one an idea. +Figure out how many animals you are likely to want for ANY purpose, +multiply by three, and bring that many cartridges. + +To carry these cartridges I should adopt the English system of a stout +leather belt on which you slip various sized pockets and loops to suit +the occasion. Each unit has loops for ten cartridges. You rarely want +more than that; and if you do, your gunbearer is supplied. In addition +to the loops, you have leather pockets to carry your watch; your money, +your matches and tobacco, your compass-anything you please. They +are handy and safe. The tropical climate is too “sticky” to get much +comfort, or anything else, out of ordinary pockets. + +In addition, you supply your gunbearer with a cartridge belt, a leather +or canvas carrying bag, water bottle for him and for yourself, a sheath +knife and a whetstone. In the bag are your camera, tape line, the +whetstone, field cleaners and lunch. You personally carry your field +glasses, sun glasses, a knife, compass, matches, police whistle and +notebook. The field glasses should not be more than six power; and if +possible you should get the sort with detachable prisms. The prisms +are apt to cloud in a tropical climate, and the non-detachable sort are +almost impossible for a layman to clean. Hang these glasses around your +neck by a strap only just long enough to permit you to raise them to +your eyes. The best notebook is the “loose-leaf” sort. By means of this +you can keep always a fresh leaf on top; and at night can transfer your +day's notes to safe keeping in your tin box. The sun glasses should not +be smoked or dark-you can do nothing with them-but of the new amberol, +the sort that excludes the ultra-violet rays, but otherwise makes the +world brighter and gayer. Spectacle frames of non-corrosive white metal, +not steel, are the proper sort. + +To clean your guns you must supply plenty of oil, and then some more. +The East African gunbearer has a quite proper and gratifying, but most +astonishing horror for a suspicion of rust; and to use oil any faster he +would have to drink it. + +Other Equipment. All this has taken much time to tell about, it has not +done much toward filling up that tin box. Dump in your toilet effects +and a bath towel, two or three scalpels for taxidermy, a ball of string, +some safety-pins, a small tool kit, sewing materials, a flask of brandy, +kodak films packed in tin, a boxed thermometer, an aneroid (if you are +curious as to elevations), journal, tags for labelling trophies, a few +yards of gun cloth, and the medicine kit. + +The latter divides into two classes: for your men and for yourself. +The men will suffer from certain well defined troubles: “tumbo,” + or overeating; diarrhaea, bronchial colds, fever and various small +injuries. For “tumbo” you want a liberal supply of Epsom's salts; for +diarrhaea you need chlorodyne; any good expectorant for the colds; +quinine for the fever; permanganate and plenty of bandages for the +injuries. With this lot you can do wonders. For yourself you need, +or may need, in addition, a more elaborate lot: Laxative, quinine, +phenacetin, bismuth and soda, bromide of ammonium, morphia, camphor-ice, +and aspirin. A clinical thermometer for whites and one for blacks should +be included. A tin of malted milk is not a bad thing to take as an +emergency ration after fever. + +By this time your tin box is fairly well provided. You may turn to +general supplies. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Land of Footprints, by Stewart Edward White + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1378 *** diff --git a/1378-h/1378-h.htm b/1378-h/1378-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..12a2d0d --- /dev/null +++ b/1378-h/1378-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,10507 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + The Land of Footprints, by Stewart Edward White + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1378 ***</div> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h1> + THE LAND OF FOOTPRINTS + </h1> + <h2> + by Stewart Edward White + </h2> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h3> + 1913 + </h3> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> I. ON BOOKS OF ADVENTURE </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> II. AFRICA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> III. THE CENTRAL PLATEAU </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> IV. THE FIRST CAMP </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> V. MEMBA SASA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> VI. THE FIRST GAME CAMP </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0007"> VII. ON THE MARCH </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> VIII. THE RIVER JUNGLE </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0009"> IX. THE FIRST LION </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0010"> X. LIONS </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0011"> XI. LIONS AGAIN </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0012"> XII. MORE LIONS </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0013"> XIII. ON THE MANAGING OF A SAFARI </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0014"> XIV. A DAY ON THE ISIOLA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0015"> XV. THE LION DANCE </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0016"> XVI. FUNDI </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0017"> XVII. NATIVES </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0018"> XVIII. IN THE JUNGLE </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0019"> XIX. THE TANA RIVER </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0020"> XX. DIVERS ADVENTURES ALONG THE TANA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0022"> XXI. THE RHINOCEROS </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0023"> XXII. THE RHINOCEROS-(continued) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0024"> XXIII. THE HIPPO POOL </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0025"> XXIV. BUFFALO </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0026"> XXV. THE BUFFALO-continued </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0027"> XXVI. JUJA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0028"> XXVII. A VISIT AT JUJA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0029"> XXVIII. A RESIDENCE AT JUJA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0030"> XXIX. CHAPTER THE LAST </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE"> APPENDIX I </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE2"> APPENDIX II </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE3"> APPENDIX III </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE4"> APPENDIX IV. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE5"> APPENDIX V. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA </a> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + I. ON BOOKS OF ADVENTURE + </h2> + <p> + Books of sporting, travel, and adventure in countries little known to the + average reader naturally fall in two classes-neither, with a very few + exceptions, of great value. One class is perhaps the logical result of the + other. + </p> + <p> + Of the first type is the book that is written to make the most of far + travels, to extract from adventure the last thrill, to impress the + awestricken reader with a full sense of the danger and hardship the writer + has undergone. Thus, if the latter takes out quite an ordinary routine + permit to go into certain districts, he makes the most of travelling in + “closed territory,” implying that he has obtained an especial privilege, + and has penetrated where few have gone before him. As a matter of fact, + the permit is issued merely that the authorities may keep track of who is + where. Anybody can get one. This class of writer tells of shooting beasts + at customary ranges of four and five hundred yards. I remember one in + especial who airily and as a matter of fact killed all his antelope at + such ranges. Most men have shot occasional beasts at a quarter mile or so, + but not airily nor as a matter of fact: rather with thanksgiving and a + certain amount of surprise. The gentleman of whom I speak mentioned + getting an eland at seven hundred and fifty yards. By chance I happened to + mention this to a native Africander. + </p> + <p> + “Yes,” said he, “I remember that; I was there.” + </p> + <p> + This interested me-and I said so. + </p> + <p> + “He made a long shot,” said I. + </p> + <p> + “A GOOD long shot,” replied the Africander. + </p> + <p> + “Did you pace the distance?” + </p> + <p> + He laughed. “No,” said he, “the old chap was immensely delighted. 'Eight + hundred yards if it was an inch!' he cried.” + </p> + <p> + “How far was it?” + </p> + <p> + “About three hundred and fifty. But it was a long shot, all right.” + </p> + <p> + And it was! Three hundred and fifty yards is a very long shot. It is over + four city blocks-New York size. But if you talk often enough and glibly + enough of “four and five hundred yards,” it does not sound like much, does + it? + </p> + <p> + The same class of writer always gets all the thrills. He speaks of + “blanched cheeks,” of the “thrilling suspense,” and so on down the gamut + of the shilling shocker. His stuff makes good reading; there is no doubt + of that. The spellbound public likes it, and to that extent it has + fulfilled its mission. Also, the reader believes it to the letter-why + should he not? Only there is this curious result: he carries away in his + mind the impression of unreality, of a country impossible to be understood + and gauged and savoured by the ordinary human mental equipment. It is + interesting, just as are historical novels, or the copper-riveted heroes + of modern fiction, but it has no real relation with human life. In the + last analysis the inherent untruth of the thing forces itself on him. He + believes, but he does not apprehend; he acknowledges the fact, but he + cannot grasp its human quality. The affair is interesting, but it is more + or less concocted of pasteboard for his amusement. Thus essential truth + asserts its right. + </p> + <p> + All this, you must understand, is probably not a deliberate attempt to + deceive. It is merely the recrudescence under the stimulus of a brand-new + environment of the boyish desire to be a hero. When a man jumps back into + the Pleistocene he digs up some of his ancestors' cave-qualities. Among + these is the desire for personal adornment. His modern development of + taste precludes skewers in the ears and polished wire around the neck; so + he adorns himself in qualities instead. It is quite an engaging and + diverting trait of character. The attitude of mind it both presupposes and + helps to bring about is too complicated for my brief analysis. In itself + it is no more blameworthy than the small boy's pretence at Indians in the + back yard; and no more praiseworthy than infantile decoration with + feathers. + </p> + <p> + In its results, however, we are more concerned. Probably each of us has + his mental picture that passes as a symbol rather than an idea of the + different continents. This is usually a single picture-a deep river, with + forest, hanging snaky vines, anacondas and monkeys for the east coast of + South America, for example. It is built up in youth by chance reading and + chance pictures, and does as well as a pink place on the map to stand for + a part of the world concerning which we know nothing at all. As time goes + on we extend, expand, and modify this picture in the light of what + knowledge we may acquire. So the reading of many books modifies and + expands our first crude notions of Equatorial Africa. And the result is, + if we read enough of the sort I describe above, we build the idea of an + exciting, dangerous, extra-human continent, visited by half-real people of + the texture of the historical-fiction hero, who have strange and + interesting adventures which we could not possibly imagine happening to + ourselves. + </p> + <p> + This type of book is directly responsible for the second sort. The author + of this is deadly afraid of being thought to brag of his adventures. He + feels constantly on him the amusedly critical eye of the old-timer. When + he comes to describe the first time a rhino dashed in his direction, he + remembers that old hunters, who have been so charged hundreds of times, + may read the book. Suddenly, in that light, the adventure becomes + pitifully unimportant. He sets down the fact that “we met a rhino that + turned a bit nasty, but after a shot in the shoulder decided to leave us + alone.” Throughout he keeps before his mind's eye the imaginary audience + of those who have done. He writes for them, to please them, to convince + them that he is not “swelled head,” nor “cocky,” nor “fancies himself,” + nor thinks he has done, been, or seen anything wonderful. It is a good, + healthy frame of mind to be in; but it, no more than the other type, can + produce books that leave on the minds of the general public any impression + of a country in relation to a real human being. + </p> + <p> + As a matter of fact, the same trouble is at the bottom of both failures. + The adventure writer, half unconsciously perhaps, has been too much + occupied play-acting himself into half-forgotten boyhood heroics. The more + modest man, with even more self-consciousness, has been thinking of how he + is going to appear in the eyes of the expert. Both have thought of + themselves before their work. This aspect of the matter would probably + vastly astonish the modest writer. + </p> + <p> + If, then, one is to formulate an ideal toward which to write, he might + express it exactly in terms of man and environment. Those readers desiring + sheer exploration can get it in any library: those in search of sheer + romantic adventure can purchase plenty of it at any book-stall. But the + majority want something different from either of these. They want, first + of all, to know what the country is like-not in vague and grandiose “word + paintings,” nor in strange and foreign sounding words and phrases, but in + comparison with something they know. What is it nearest like-Arizona? + Surrey? Upper New York? Canada? Mexico? Or is it totally different from + anything, as is the Grand Canyon? When you look out from your camp-any one + camp-how far do you see, and what do you see?-mountains in the distance, + or a screen of vines or bamboo near hand, or what? When you get up in the + morning, what is the first thing to do? What does a rhino look like, where + he lives, and what did you do the first time one came at you? I don't want + you to tell me as though I were either an old hunter or an admiring + audience, or as though you were afraid somebody might think you were + making too much of the matter. I want to know how you REALLY felt. Were + you scared or nervous? or did you become cool? Tell me frankly just how it + was, so I can see the thing as happening to a common everyday human being. + Then, even at second-hand and at ten thousand miles distance, I can enjoy + it actually, humanly, even though vicariously, speculating a bit over my + pipe as to how I would have liked it myself. + </p> + <p> + Obviously, to write such a book the author must at the same time sink his + ego and exhibit frankly his personality. The paradox in this is only + apparent. He must forget either to strut or to blush with diffidence. + Neither audience should be forgotten, and neither should be exclusively + addressed. Never should he lose sight of the wholesome fact that old + hunters are to read and to weigh; never should he for a moment slip into + the belief that he is justified in addressing the expert alone. His + attitude should be that many men know more and have done more than he, but + that for one reason or another these men are not ready to transmit their + knowledge and experience. + </p> + <p> + To set down the formulation of an ideal is one thing: to fulfil it is + another. In the following pages I cannot claim a fulfilment, but only an + attempt. The foregoing dissertation must be considered not as a promise, + but as an explanation. No one knows better than I how limited my African + experience is, both in time and extent, bounded as it is by East + Equatorial Africa and a year. Hundreds of men are better qualified than + myself to write just this book; but unfortunately they will not do it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + II. AFRICA + </h2> + <p> + In looking back on the multitudinous pictures that the word Africa bids + rise in my memory, four stand out more distinctly than the others. + Strangely enough, these are by no means all pictures of average + country-the sort of thing one would describe as typical. Perhaps, in a + way, they symbolize more the spirit of the country to me, for certainly + they represent but a small minority of its infinitely varied aspects. But + since we must make a start somewhere, and since for some reason these four + crowd most insistently in the recollection it might be well to begin with + them. + </p> + <p> + Our camp was pitched under a single large mimosa tree near the edge of a + deep and narrow ravine down which a stream flowed. A semicircle of low + mountains hemmed us in at the distance of several miles. The other side of + the semicircle was occupied by the upthrow of a low rise blocking off an + horizon at its nearest point but a few hundred yards away. Trees marked + the course of the stream; low scattered bushes alternated with open plain. + The grass grew high. We had to cut it out to make camp. + </p> + <p> + Nothing indicated that we were otherwise situated than in a very pleasant, + rather wide grass valley in the embrace of the mountains. Only a walk of a + few hundred yards atop the upthrow of the low rise revealed the fact that + it was in reality the lip of a bench, and that beyond it the country fell + away in sheer cliffs whose ultimate drop was some fifteen hundred feet. + One could sit atop and dangle his feet over unguessed abysses. + </p> + <p> + For a week we had been hunting for greater kudu. Each day Memba Sasa and I + went in one direction, while Mavrouki and Kongoni took another line. We + looked carefully for signs, but found none fresher than the month before. + Plenty of other game made the country interesting; but we were after a shy + and valuable prize, so dared not shoot lesser things. At last, at the end + of the week, Mavrouki came in with a tale of eight lions seen in the low + scrub across the stream. The kudu business was about finished, as far as + this place went, so we decided to take a look for the lions. + </p> + <p> + We ate by lantern and at the first light were ready to start. But at that + moment, across the slope of the rim a few hundred yards away, appeared a + small group of sing-sing. These are a beautiful big beast, with widespread + horns, proud and wonderful, like Landseer's stags, and I wanted one of + them very much. So I took the Springfield, and dropped behind the line of + some bushes. The stalk was of the ordinary sort. One has to remain behind + cover, to keep down wind, to make no quick movements. Sometimes this takes + considerable manoeuvring; especially, as now, in the case of a small band + fairly well scattered out for feeding. Often after one has succeeded in + placing them all safely behind the scattered cover, a straggler will step + out into view. Then the hunter must stop short, must slowly, oh very, very + slowly, sink down out of sight; so slowly, in fact, that he must not seem + to move, but rather to melt imperceptibly away. Then he must take up his + progress at a lower plane of elevation. Perhaps he needs merely to stoop; + or he may crawl on hands and knees; or he may lie flat and hitch himself + forward by his toes, pushing his gun ahead. If one of the beasts suddenly + looks very intently in his direction, he must freeze into no matter what + uncomfortable position, and so remain an indefinite time. Even a + hotel-bred child to whom you have rashly made advances stares no longer + nor more intently than a buck that cannot make you out. + </p> + <p> + I had no great difficulty with this lot, but slipped up quite successfully + to within one hundred and fifty yards. There I raised my head behind a + little bush to look. Three does grazed nearest me, their coats rough + against the chill of early morning. Up the slope were two more does and + two funny, fuzzy babies. An immature buck occupied the extreme left with + three young ladies. But the big buck, the leader, the boss of the lot, I + could not see anywhere. Of course he must be about, and I craned my neck + cautiously here and there trying to make him out. + </p> + <p> + Suddenly, with one accord, all turned and began to trot rapidly away to + the right, their heads high. In the strange manner of animals, they had + received telepathic alarm, and had instantly obeyed. Then beyond and far + to the right I at last saw the beast I had been looking for. The old + villain had been watching me all the time! + </p> + <p> + The little herd in single file made their way rapidly along the face of + the rise. They were headed in the direction of the stream. Now, I happened + to know that at this point the stream-canyon was bordered by sheer cliffs. + Therefore, the sing-sing must round the hill, and not cross the stream. By + running to the top of the hill I might catch a glimpse of them somewhere + below. So I started on a jog trot, trying to hit the golden mean of speed + that would still leave me breath to shoot. This was an affair of some + nicety in the tall grass. Just before I reached the actual slope, however, + I revised my schedule. The reason was supplied by a rhino that came + grunting to his feet about seventy yards away. He had not seen me, and he + had not smelled me, but the general disturbance of all these events had + broken into his early morning nap. He looked to me like a person who is + cross before breakfast, so I ducked low and ran around him. The last I saw + of him he was still standing there, quite disgruntled, and evidently + intending to write to the directors about it. + </p> + <p> + Arriving at the top, I looked eagerly down. The cliff fell away at an + impossible angle, but sheer below ran out a narrow bench fifty yards wide. + Around the point of the hill to my right-where the herd had gone-a game + trail dropped steeply to this bench. I arrived just in time to see the + sing-sing, still trotting, file across the bench and over its edge, on + some other invisible game trail, to continue their descent of the cliff. + The big buck brought up the rear. At the very edge he came to a halt, and + looked back, throwing his head up and his nose out so that the heavy fur + on his neck stood forward like a ruff. It was a last glimpse of him, so I + held my little best, and pulled trigger. + </p> + <p> + This happened to be one of those shots I spoke of-which the perpetrator + accepts with a thankful and humble spirit. The sing-sing leaped high in + the air and plunged over the edge of the bench. I signalled the camp-in + plain sight-to come and get the head and meat, and sat down to wait. And + while waiting, I looked out on a scene that has since been to me one of my + four symbolizations of Africa. + </p> + <p> + The morning was dull, with gray clouds through which at wide intervals + streamed broad bands of misty light. Below me the cliff fell away clear to + a gorge in the depths of which flowed a river. Then the land began to + rise, broken, sharp, tumbled, terrible, tier after tier, gorge after + gorge, one twisted range after the other, across a breathlessly + immeasurable distance. The prospect was full of shadows thrown by the + tumult of lava. In those shadows one imagined stranger abysses. Far down + to the right a long narrow lake inaugurated a flatter, alkali-whitened + country of low cliffs in long straight lines. Across the distances proper + to a dozen horizons the tumbled chaos heaved and fell. The eye sought rest + at the bounds usual to its accustomed world-and went on. There was no + roundness to the earth, no grateful curve to drop this great fierce + country beyond a healing horizon out of sight. The immensity of primal + space was in it, and the simplicity of primal things-rough, unfinished, + full of mystery. There was no colour. The scene was done in slate gray, + darkening to the opaque where a tiny distant rain squall started; + lightening in the nearer shadows to reveal half-guessed peaks; brightening + unexpectedly into broad short bands of misty gray light slanting from the + gray heavens above to the sombre tortured immensity beneath. It was such a + thing as Gustave Dore might have imaged to serve as an abiding place for + the fierce chaotic spirit of the African wilderness. + </p> + <p> + I sat there for some time hugging my knees, waiting for the men to come. + The tremendous landscape seemed to have been willed to immobility. The + rain squalls forty miles or more away did not appear to shift their + shadows; the rare slanting bands of light from the clouds were as constant + as though they were falling through cathedral windows. But nearer at hand + other things were forward. The birds, thousands of them, were doing their + best to cheer things up. The roucoulements of doves rose from the bushes + down the face of the cliffs; the bell bird uttered his clear ringing note; + the chime bird gave his celebrated imitation of a really gentlemanly + sixty-horse power touring car hinting you out of the way with the + mellowness of a chimed horn; the bottle bird poured gallons of guggling + essence of happiness from his silver jug. From the direction of camp, + evidently jumped by the boys, a steinbuck loped gracefully, pausing every + few minutes to look back, his dainty legs tense, his sensitive ears + pointed toward the direction of disturbance. + </p> + <p> + And now, along the face of the cliff, I make out the flashing of much + movement, half glimpsed through the bushes. Soon a fine old-man baboon, + his tail arched after the dandified fashion of the baboon aristocracy + stepped out, looked around, and bounded forward. Other old men followed + him, and then the young men, and a miscellaneous lot of half-grown + youngsters. The ladies brought up the rear, with the babies. These rode + their mothers' backs, clinging desperately while they leaped along, for + all the world like the pathetic monkey “jockeys” one sees strapped to the + backs of big dogs in circuses. When they had approached to within fifty + yards, remarked “hullo!” to them. Instantly they all stopped. Those in + front stood up on their hind legs; those behind clambered to points of + vantage on rocks and the tops of small bushes: They all took a good long + look at me. Then they told me what they thought about me personally, the + fact of my being there, and the rude way I had startled them. Their + remarks were neither complimentary nor refined. The old men, in especial, + got quite profane, and screamed excited billingsgate. Finally they all + stopped at once, dropped on all fours, and loped away, their ridiculous + long tails curved in a half arc. Then for the first time I noticed that, + under cover of the insults, the women and children had silently retired. + Once more I was left to the familiar gentle bird calls, and the vast + silence of the wilderness beyond. + </p> + <p> + The second picture, also, was a view from a height, but of a totally + different character. It was also, perhaps, more typical of a greater part + of East Equatorial Africa. Four of us were hunting lions with natives-both + wild and tame-and a scratch pack of dogs. More of that later. We had + rummaged around all the morning without any results; and now at noon had + climbed to the top of a butte to eat lunch and look abroad. + </p> + <p> + Our butte ran up a gentle but accelerating slope to a peak of big rounded + rocks and slabs sticking out boldly from the soil of the hill. We made + ourselves comfortable each after his fashion. The gunbearers leaned + against rocks and rolled cigarettes. The savages squatted on their heels, + planting their spears ceremonially in front of them. One of my friends lay + on his back, resting a huge telescope over his crossed feet. With this he + purposed seeing any lion that moved within ten miles. None of the rest of + us could ever make out anything through the fearsome weapon. Therefore, + relieved from responsibility by the presence of this Dreadnaught of a + 'scope, we loafed and looked about us. This is what we saw: + </p> + <p> + Mountains at our backs, of course-at some distance; then plains in long + low swells like the easy rise and fall of a tropical sea, wave after wave, + and over the edge of the world beyond a distant horizon. Here and there on + this plain, single hills lay becalmed, like ships at sea; some peaked, + some cliffed like buttes, some long and low like the hulls of battleships. + The brown plain flowed up to wash their bases, liquid as the sea itself, + its tides rising in the coves of the hills, and ebbing in the valleys + between. Near at hand, in the middle distance, far away, these fleets of + the plain sailed, until at last hull-down over the horizon their topmasts + disappeared. Above them sailed too the phantom fleet of the clouds, shot + with light, shining like silver, airy as racing yachts, yet casting here + and there exaggerated shadows below. + </p> + <p> + The sky in Africa is always very wide, greater than any other skies. + Between horizon and horizon is more space than any other world contains. + It is as though the cup of heaven had been pressed a little flatter; so + that while the boundaries have widened, the zenith, with its flaming sun, + has come nearer. And yet that is not a constant quantity either. I have + seen one edge of the sky raised straight up a few million miles, as though + some one had stuck poles under its corners, so that the western heaven did + not curve cup-wise over to the horizon at all as it did everywhere else, + but rather formed the proscenium of a gigantic stage. On this stage they + had piled great heaps of saffron yellow clouds, and struck shafts of + yellow light, and filled the spaces with the lurid portent of a + storm-while the twenty thousand foot mountains below, crouched whipped and + insignificant to the earth. + </p> + <p> + We sat atop our butte for an hour while H. looked through his 'scope. + After the soft silent immensity of the earth, running away to infinity, + with its low waves, and its scattered fleet of hills, it was with + difficulty that we brought our gaze back to details and to things near at + hand. Directly below us we could make out many different-hued specks. + Looking closely, we could see that those specks were game animals. They + fed here and there in bands of from ten to two hundred, with valleys and + hills between. Within the radius of the eye they moved, nowhere crowded in + big herds, but everywhere present. A band of zebras grazed the side of one + of the earth waves, a group of gazelles walked on the skyline, a herd of + kongoni rested in the hollow between. On the next rise was a similar + grouping; across the valley a new variation. As far as the eye could + strain its powers it could make out more and ever more beasts. I took up + my field glasses, and brought them all to within a sixth of the distance. + After amusing myself for some time in watching them, I swept the glasses + farther on. Still the same animals grazing on the hills and in the + hollows. I continued to look, and to look again, until even the powerful + prismatic glasses failed to show things big enough to distinguish. At the + limit of extreme vision I could still make out game, and yet more game. + And as I took my glasses from my eyes, and realized how small a portion of + this great land-sea I had been able to examine; as I looked away to the + ship-hills hull-down over the horizon, and realized that over all that + extent fed the Game; the ever-new wonder of Africa for the hundredth time + filled my mind-the teeming fecundity of her bosom. + </p> + <p> + “Look here,” said H. without removing his eye from the 'scope, “just + beyond the edge of that shadow to the left of the bushes in the donga-I've + been watching them ten minutes, and I can't make 'em out yet. They're + either hyenas acting mighty queer, or else two lionesses.” + </p> + <p> + We snatched our glasses and concentrated on that important detail. + </p> + <p> + To catch the third experience you must have journeyed with us across the + “Thirst,” as the natives picturesquely name the waterless tract of two + days and a half. Our very start had been delayed by a breakage of some + Dutch-sounding essential to our ox wagon, caused by the confusion of a + night attack by lions: almost every night we had lain awake as long as we + could to enjoy the deep-breathed grumbling or the vibrating roars of these + beasts. Now at last, having pushed through the dry country to the river in + the great plain, we were able to take breath from our mad hurry, and to + give our attention to affairs beyond the limits of mere expediency. One of + these was getting Billy a shot at a lion. + </p> + <p> + Billy had never before wanted to shoot anything except a python. Why a + python we could not quite fathom. Personally, I think she had some vague + idea of getting even for that Garden of Eden affair. But lately, pythons + proving scarcer than in that favoured locality, she had switched to a + lion. She wanted, she said, to give the skin to her sister. In vain we + pointed out that a zebra hide was very decorative, that lions go to absurd + lengths in retaining possession of their own skins, and other equally + convincing facts. It must be a lion or nothing; so naturally we had to + make a try. + </p> + <p> + There are several ways of getting lions, only one of which is at all + likely to afford a steady pot shot to a very small person trying to + manipulate an over-size gun. That is to lay out a kill. The idea is to + catch the lion at it in the early morning before he has departed for home. + The best kill is a zebra: first, because lions like zebra; second, because + zebra are fairly large; third, because zebra are very numerous. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly, after we had pitched camp just within a fringe of mimosa + trees and of red-flowering aloes near the river; had eaten lunch, smoked a + pipe and issued necessary orders to the men, C. and I set about the + serious work of getting an appropriate bait in an appropriate place. + </p> + <p> + The plains stretched straight away from the river bank to some indefinite + and unknown distance to the south. A low range of mountains lay blue to + the left; and a mantle of scrub thornbush closed the view to the right. + This did not imply that we could see far straight ahead, for the surface + of the plain rose slowly to the top of a swell about two miles away. + Beyond it reared a single butte peak at four or five times that distance. + </p> + <p> + We stepped from the fringe of red aloes and squinted through the dancing + heat shimmer. Near the limit of vision showed a very faint glimmering + whitish streak. A newcomer to Africa would not have looked at it twice: + nevertheless, it could be nothing but zebra. These gaudily marked beasts + take queer aspects even on an open plain. Most often they show pure white; + sometimes a jet black; only when within a few hundred yards does one + distinguish the stripes. Almost always they are very easily made out. Only + when very distant and in heat shimmer, or in certain half lights of + evening, does their so-called “protective colouration” seem to be in + working order, and even then they are always quite visible to the least + expert hunter's scrutiny. + </p> + <p> + It is not difficult to kill a zebra, though sometimes it has to be done at + a fairly long range. If all you want is meat for the porters, the matter + is simple enough. But when you require bait for a lion, that; is another + affair entirely. In the first place, you must be able to stalk within a + hundred yards of your kill without being seen; in the second place, you + must provide two or three good lying-down places for your prospective + trophy within fifteen yards of the carcass-and no more than two or three; + in the third place, you must judge the direction of the probable morning + wind, and must be able to approach from leeward. It is evidently pretty + good luck to find an accommodating zebra in just such a spot. It is a + matter of still greater nicety to drop him absolutely in his tracks. In a + case of porters' meat it does not make any particular difference if he + runs a hundred yards before he dies. With lion bait even fifty yards makes + all the difference in the world. + </p> + <p> + C. and I talked it over and resolved to press Scallywattamus into service. + Scallywattamus is a small white mule who is firmly convinced that each and + every bush in Africa conceals a mule-eating rhinoceros, and who does not + intend to be one of the number so eaten. But we had noticed that at times + zebra would be so struck with the strange sight of Scallywattamus carrying + a man, that they would let us get quite close. C. was to ride + Scallywattamus while I trudged along under his lee ready to shoot. + </p> + <p> + We set out through the heat shimmer, gradually rising as the plain + slanted. Imperceptibly the camp and the trees marking the river's course + fell below us and into the heat haze. In the distance, close to the + stream, we made out a blurred, brown-red solid mass which we knew for + Masai cattle. Various little Thompson's gazelles skipped away to the left + waggling their tails vigorously and continuously as Nature long since + commanded “Tommies” to do. The heat haze steadied around the dim white + line, so we could make out the individual animals. There were plenty of + them, dozing in the sun. A single tiny treelet broke the plain just at the + skyline of the rise. C. and I talked low-voiced as we went along. We + agreed that the tree was an excellent landmark to come to, that the little + rise afforded proper cover, and that in the morning the wind would in all + likelihood blow toward the river. There were perhaps twenty zebra near + enough to the chosen spot. Any of them would do. + </p> + <p> + But the zebra did not give a hoot for Scallywattamus. At five hundred + yards three or four of them awoke with a start, stared at us a minute, and + moved slowly away. They told all the zebra they happened upon that the + three idiots approaching were at once uninteresting and dangerous. At four + hundred and fifty yards a half dozen more made off at a trot. At three + hundred and fifty yards the rest plunged away at a canter-all but one. He + remained to stare, but his tail was up, and we knew he only stayed because + he knew he could easily catch up in the next twenty seconds. + </p> + <p> + The chance was very slim of delivering a knockout at that distance, but we + badly needed meat, anyway, after our march through the Thirst, so I tried + him. We heard the well-known plunk of the bullet, but down went his head, + up went his heels, and away went he. We watched him in vast disgust. He + cavorted out into a bare open space without cover of any sort, and then + flopped over. I thought I caught a fleeting grin of delight on Mavrouki's + face; but he knew enough instantly to conceal his satisfaction over sure + meat. + </p> + <p> + There were now no zebra anywhere near; but since nobody ever thinks of + omitting any chances in Africa, I sneaked up to the tree and took a + perfunctory look. There stood another, providentially absent-minded, + zebra! + </p> + <p> + We got that one. Everybody was now happy. The boys raced over to the first + kill, which soon took its dismembered way toward camp. C. and I carefully + organized our plan of campaign. We fixed in our memories the exact + location of each and every bush; we determined compass direction from + camp, and any other bearings likely to prove useful in finding so small a + spot in the dark. Then we left a boy to keep carrion birds off until + sunset; and returned home. + </p> + <p> + We were out in the morning before even the first sign of dawn. Billy rode + her little mule, C. and I went afoot, Memba Sasa accompanied us because he + could see whole lions where even C.'s trained eye could not make out an + ear, and the syce went along to take care of the mule. The heavens were + ablaze with the thronging stars of the tropics, so we found we could make + out the skyline of the distant butte over the rise of the plains. The + earth itself was a pool of absolute blackness. We could not see where we + were placing our feet, and we were continually bringing up suddenly to + walk around an unexpected aloe or thornbush. The night was quite still, + but every once in a while from the blackness came rustlings, scamperings, + low calls, and once or twice the startled barking of zebra very near at + hand. The latter sounded as ridiculous as ever. It is one of the many + incongruities of African life that Nature should have given so large and + so impressive a creature the petulant yapping of an exasperated Pomeranian + lap dog. At the end of three quarters of an hour of more or less stumbling + progress, we made out against the sky the twisted treelet that served as + our landmark. Billy dismounted, turned the mule over to the syce, and we + crept slowly forward until within a guessed two or three hundred yards of + our kill. + </p> + <p> + Nothing remained now but to wait for the daylight. It had already begun to + show. Over behind the distant mountains some one was kindling the fires, + and the stars were flickering out. The splendid ferocity of the African + sunrise was at hand. Long bands of slate dark clouds lay close along the + horizon, and behind them glowed a heart of fire, as on a small scale the + lamplight glows through a metal-worked shade. On either side the sky was + pale green-blue, translucent and pure, deep as infinity itself. The earth + was still black, and the top of the rise near at hand was clear edged. On + that edge, and by a strange chance accurately in the centre of + illumination, stood the uncouth massive form of a shaggy wildebeeste, his + head raised, staring to the east. He did not move; nothing of that fire + and black world moved; only instant by instant it changed, swelling in + glory toward some climax until one expected at any moment a fanfare of + trumpets, the burst of triumphant culmination. + </p> + <p> + Then very far down in the distance a lion roared. The wildebeeste, without + moving, bellowed back an answer or a defiance. Down in the hollow an + ostrich boomed. Zebra barked, and several birds chirped strongly. The + tension was breaking not in the expected fanfare and burst of triumphal + music, but in a manner instantly felt to be more fitting to what was + indeed a wonder, but a daily wonder for all that. At one and the same + instant the rim of the sun appeared and the wildebeeste, after the sudden + habit of his kind, made up his mind to go. He dropped his head and came + thundering down past us at full speed. Straight to the west he headed, and + so disappeared. We could hear the beat of his hoofs dying into the + distance. He had gone like a Warder of the Morning whose task was + finished. On the knife-edged skyline appeared the silhouette of + slim-legged little Tommies, flirting their rails, sniffing at the dewy + grass, dainty, slender, confiding, the open-day antithesis of the + tremendous and awesome lord of the darkness that had roared its way to its + lair, and to the massive shaggy herald of morning that had thundered down + to the west. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + III. THE CENTRAL PLATEAU + </h2> + <p> + Now is required a special quality of the imagination, not in myself, but + in my readers, for it becomes necessary for them to grasp the logic of a + whole country in one mental effort. The difficulties to me are very real. + If I am to tell you it all in detail, your mind becomes confused to the + point of mingling the ingredients of the description. The resultant mental + picture is a composite; it mixes localities wide apart; it comes out, like + the snake-creeper-swamp-forest thing of grammar-school South America, an + unreal and deceitful impression. If, on the other hand, I try to give you + a bird's-eye view-saying, here is plain, and there follows upland, and + yonder succeed mountains and hills-you lose the sense of breadth and space + and the toil of many days. The feeling of onward outward extending + distance is gone; and that impression so indispensable to finite + understanding-“here am I, and what is beyond is to be measured by the + length of my legs and the toil of my days.” You will not stop long enough + on my plains to realize their physical extent nor their influence on the + human soul. If I mention them in a sentence, you dismiss them in a + thought. And that is something the plains themselves refuse to permit you + to do. Yet sometimes one must become a guide-book, and bespeak his + reader's imagination. + </p> + <p> + The country, then, wherein we travelled begins at the sea. Along the coast + stretches a low rolling country of steaming tropics, grown with cocoanuts, + bananas, mangoes, and populated by a happy, half-naked race of the + Swahilis. Leaving the coast, the country rises through hills. These hills + are at first fertile and green and wooded. Later they turn into an almost + unbroken plateau of thorn scrub, cruel, monotonous, almost impenetrable. + Fix thorn scrub in your mind, with rhino trails, and occasional openings + for game, and a few rivers flowing through palms and narrow jungle strips; + fix it in your mind until your mind is filled with it, until you are + convinced that nothing else can exist in the world but more and more of + the monotonous, terrible, dry, onstretching desert of thorn. + </p> + <p> + Then pass through this to the top of the hills inland, and journey over + these hills to the highland plains. + </p> + <p> + Now sense and appreciate these wide seas of and the hills and ranges of + mountains rising from them, and their infinite diversity of country-their + rivers marked by ribbons of jungle, their scattered-bush and their + thick-bush areas, their grass expanses, and their great distances + extending far over exceedingly wide horizons. Realize how many weary hours + you must travel to gain the nearest butte, what days of toil the view from + its top will disclose. Savour the fact that you can spend months in its + veriest corner without exhausting its possibilities. Then, and not until + then, raise your eyes to the low rising transverse range that bands it to + the west as the thorn desert bands it to the east. + </p> + <p> + And on these ranges are the forests, the great bewildering forests. In + what looks like a grove lying athwart a little hill you can lose yourself + for days. Here dwell millions of savages in an apparently untouched + wilderness. Here rises a snow mountain on the equator. Here are tangles + and labyrinths, great bamboo forests lost in folds of the mightiest hills. + Here are the elephants. Here are the swinging vines, the jungle itself. + </p> + <p> + Yet finally it breaks. We come out on the edge of things and look down on + a great gash in the earth. It is like a sunken kingdom in itself, miles + wide, with its own mountain ranges, its own rivers, its own landscape + features. Only on either side of it rise the escarpments which are the + true level of the plateau. One can spend two months in this valley, too, + and in the countries south to which it leads. And on its farther side are + the high plateau plains again, or the forests, or the desert, or the great + lakes that lie at the source of the Nile. + </p> + <p> + So now, perhaps, we are a little prepared to go ahead. The guide-book work + is finished for good and all. There is the steaming hot low coast belt, + and the hot dry thorn desert belt, and the varied immense plains, and the + high mountain belt of the forests, and again the variegated wide country + of the Rift Valley and the high plateau. To attempt to tell you seriatim + and in detail just what they are like is the task of an encyclopaedist. + Perhaps more indirectly you may be able to fill in the picture of the + country, the people, and the beasts. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + IV. THE FIRST CAMP + </h2> + <p> + Our very first start into the new country was made when we piled out from + the little train standing patiently awaiting the good pleasure of our + descent. That feature strikes me with ever new wonder-the accommodating + way trains of the Uganda Railway have of waiting for you. One day, at a + little wayside station, C. and I were idly exchanging remarks with the + only white man in sight, killing time until the engine should whistle to a + resumption of the journey. The guard lingered about just out of earshot. + At the end of five minutes C. happened to catch his eye, whereupon he + ventured to approach. + </p> + <p> + “When you have finished your conversation,” said he politely, “we are all + ready to go on.” + </p> + <p> + On the morning in question there were a lot of us to disembark-one hundred + and twenty-two, to be exact-of which four were white. We were not yet + acquainted with our men, nor yet with our stores, nor with the methods of + our travel. The train went off and left us in the middle of a high + plateau, with low ridges running across it, and mountains in the distance. + Men were squabbling earnestly for the most convenient loads to carry, and + as fast as they had gained undisputed possession, they marked the loads + with some private sign of their own. M'ganga, the headman, tall, fierce, + big-framed and bony, clad in fez, a long black overcoat, blue puttees and + boots, stood stiff as a ramrod, extended a rigid right arm and rattled off + orders in a high dynamic voice. In his left hand he clasped a bulgy + umbrella, the badge of his dignity and the symbol of his authority. The + four askaris, big men too, with masterful high-cheekboned countenances, + rushed here and there seeing that the orders were carried out. + Expostulations, laughter, the sound of quarrelling rose and fell. Never + could the combined volume of it all override the firecracker stream of + M'ganga's eloquence. + </p> + <p> + We had nothing to do with it all, but stood a little dazed, staring at the + novel scene. Our men were of many tribes, each with its own cast of + features, its own notions of what befitted man's performance of his duties + here below. They stuck together each in its clan. A fine free + individualism of personal adornment characterized them. Every man dressed + for his own satisfaction solely. They hung all sorts of things in the + distended lobes of their ears. One had succeeded in inserting a fine big + glittering tobacco tin. Others had invented elaborate topiary designs in + their hair, shaving their heads so as to leave strange tufts, patches, + crescents on the most unexpected places. Of the intricacy of these designs + they seemed absurdly proud. Various sorts of treasure trove hung from + them-a bunch of keys to which there were no locks, discarded hunting + knives, tips of antelope horns, discharged brass cartridges, a hundred and + one valueless trifles plucked proudly from the rubbish heap. They were all + clothed. We had supplied each with a red blanket, a blue jersey, and a + water bottle. The blankets they were twisting most ingeniously into + turbans. Beside these they sported a great variety of garments. Shooting + coats that had seen better days, a dozen shabby overcoats-worn proudly + through the hottest noons-raggety breeches and trousers made by some + London tailor, queer baggy homemades of the same persuasion, or quite + simply the square of cotton cloth arranged somewhat like a short tight + skirt, or nothing at all as the man's taste ran. They were many of them + amusing enough; but somehow they did not look entirely farcical and + ridiculous, like our negroes putting on airs. All these things were worn + with a simplicity of quiet confidence in their entire fitness. And beneath + the red blanket turbans the half-wild savage faces peered out. + </p> + <p> + Now Mahomet approached. Mahomet was my personal boy. He was a Somali from + the Northwest coast, dusky brown, with the regular clear-cut features of a + Greek marble god. His dress was of neat khaki, and he looked down on + savages; but, also, as with all the dark-skinned races, up to his white + master. Mahomet was with me during all my African stay, and tested out + nobly. As yet, of course, I did not know him. + </p> + <p> + “Chakula taiari,” said he. + </p> + <p> + That is Swahili. It means literally “food is ready.” After one has hunted + in Africa for a few months, it means also “paradise is opened,” “grief is + at an end,” “joy and thanksgiving are now in order,” and similar affairs. + Those two words are never forgotten, and the veriest beginner in Swahili + can recognize them without the slightest effort. + </p> + <p> + We followed Mahomet. Somehow, without orders, in all this confusion, the + personal staff had been quietly and efficiently busy. Drawn a little to + one side stood a table with four chairs. The table was covered with a + white cloth, and was set with a beautiful white enamel service. We took + our places. Behind each chair straight as a ramrod stood a neat khaki-clad + boy. They brought us food, and presented it properly on the left side, + waiting like well-trained butlers. We might have been in a London + restaurant. As three of us were Americans, we felt a trifle dazed. The + porters, having finished the distribution of their loads, squatted on + their heels and watched us respectfully. + </p> + <p> + And then, not two hundred yards away, four ostriches paced slowly across + the track, paying not the slightest attention to us-our first real wild + ostriches, scornful of oranges, careless of tourists, and rightful + guardians of their own snowy plumes. The passage of these four solemn + birds seemed somehow to lend this strange open-air meal an exotic flavour. + We were indeed in Africa; and the ostriches helped us to realize it. + </p> + <p> + We finished breakfast and arose from our chairs. Instantly a half dozen + men sprang forward. Before our amazed eyes the table service, the chairs + and the table itself disappeared into neat packages. M'ganga arose to his + feet. + </p> + <p> + “Bandika!” he cried. + </p> + <p> + The askaris rushed here and there actively. + </p> + <p> + “Bandika! bandika! bandika!” they cried repeatedly. + </p> + <p> + The men sprang into activity. A struggle heaved the varicoloured + multitude-and, lo! each man stood upright, his load balanced on his head. + At the same moment the syces led up our horses, mounted and headed across + the little plain whence had come the four ostriches. Our African journey + had definitely begun. + </p> + <p> + Behind us, all abreast marched the four gunbearers; then the four syces; + then the safari single file, an askari at the head bearing proudly his + ancient musket and our banner, other askaris flanking, M'ganga bringing up + the rear with his mighty umbrella and an unsuspected rhinoceros-hide whip. + The tent boys and the cook scattered along the flank anywhere, as befitted + the free and independent who had nothing to do with the serious business + of marching. A measured sound of drumming followed the beating of loads + with a hundred sticks; a wild, weird chanting burst from the ranks and + died down again as one or another individual or group felt moved to song. + One lot had a formal chant and response. Their leader, in a high falsetto, + said something like, + </p> + <p> + “Kuna koma kuno,” + </p> + <p> + and all his tribesmen would follow with a single word in a deep gruff + tone, + </p> + <p> + “Za-la-nee!” + </p> + <p> + All of which undoubtedly helped immensely. + </p> + <p> + The country was a bully country, but somehow it did not look like Africa. + That is to say, it looked altogether too much like any amount of country + at home. There was nothing strange and exotic about it. We crossed a + little plain, and up over a small hill, down into a shallow canyon that + seemed to be wooded with live oaks, across a grass valley or so, and + around a grass hill. Then we went into camp at the edge of another grass + valley, by a stream across which rose some ordinary low cliffs. + </p> + <p> + That is the disconcerting thing about a whole lot of this country-it is so + much like home. Of course, there are many wide districts exotic enough in + all conscience-the jungle beds of the rivers, the bamboo forests, the + great tangled forests themselves, the banana groves down the aisles of + which dance savages with shields-but so very much of it is familiar. One + needs only church spires and a red-roofed village or so to imagine one's + self in Surrey. There is any amount of country like Arizona, and more like + the uplands of Wyoming, and a lot of it resembling the smaller landscapes + of New England. The prospects of the whole world are there, so that + somewhere every wanderer can find the countryside of his own home + repeated. And, by the same token, that is exactly what makes a good deal + of it so startling. When a man sees a file of spear-armed savages, or a + pair of snorty old rhinos, step out into what has seemed practically his + own back yard home, he is even more startled than if he had encountered + them in quite strange surroundings. + </p> + <p> + We rode into the grass meadow and picked camp site. The men trailed in and + dumped down their loads in a row. + </p> + <p> + At a signal they set to work. A dozen to each tent got them up in a jiffy. + A long file brought firewood from the stream bed. Others carried water, + stones for the cook, a dozen other matters. The tent boys rescued our + boxes; they put together the cots and made the beds, even before the tents + were raised from the ground. Within an incredibly short space of time the + three green tents were up and arranged, each with its bed made, its + mosquito bar hung, its personal box open, its folding washstand ready with + towels and soap, the table and chairs unlimbered. At a discreet distance + flickered the cook campfire, and at a still discreeter distance the little + tents of the men gleamed pure white against the green of the high grass. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + V. MEMBA SASA + </h2> + <p> + I wish I could plunge you at once into the excitements of big game in + Africa, but I cannot truthfully do so. To be sure, we went hunting that + afternoon, up over the low cliffs, and we saw several of a very lively + little animal known as the Chandler's reedbuck. This was not supposed to + be a game country, and that was all we did see. At these we shot several + times-disgracefully. In fact, for several days we could not shoot at all, + at any range, nor at anything. It was very sad, and very aggravating. + Afterward we found that this is an invariable experience to the newcomer. + The light is new, the air is different, the sizes of the game are + deceiving. Nobody can at first hit anything. At the end of five days we + suddenly began to shoot our normal gait. Why, I do not know. + </p> + <p> + But in this afternoon tramp around the low cliffs after the elusive + reedbuck, I for the first time became acquainted with a man who developed + into a real friend. + </p> + <p> + His name is Memba Sasa. Memba Sasa are two Swahili words meaning “now a + crocodile.” Subsequently, after I had learned to talk Swahili, I tried to + find out what he was formerly, before he was a crocodile, but did not + succeed. + </p> + <p> + He was of the tribe of the Monumwezi, of medium height, compactly and + sturdily built, carried himself very erect, and moved with a concentrated + and vigorous purposefulness. His countenance might be described as + pleasing but not handsome, of a dark chocolate brown, with the broad nose + of the negro, but with a firm mouth, high cheekbones, and a frowning + intentness of brow that was very fine. When you talked to him he looked + you straight in the eye. His own eyes were shaded by long, soft, curling + lashes behind which they looked steadily and gravely-sometimes fiercely-on + the world. He rarely smiled-never merely in understanding or for + politeness' sake-and never laughed unless there was something really + amusing. Then he chuckled from deep in his chest, the most contagious + laughter you can imagine. Often we, at the other end of the camp, have + laughed in sympathy, just at the sound of that deep and hearty ho! ho! ho! + of Memba Sasa. Even at something genuinely amusing he never laughed much, + nor without a very definite restraint. In fact, about him was no + slackness, no sprawling abandon of the native in relaxation; but always a + taut efficiency and a never-failing self-respect. + </p> + <p> + Naturally, behind such a fixed moral fibre must always be some moral idea. + When a man lives up to a real, not a pompous, dignity some ideal must + inform it. Memba Sasa's ideal was that of the Hunter. + </p> + <p> + He was a gunbearer; and he considered that a good gunbearer stood quite a + few notches above any other human being, save always the white man, of + course. And even among the latter Memba Sasa made great differences. These + differences he kept to himself, and treated all with equal respect. + Nevertheless, they existed, and Memba Sasa very well knew that fact. In + the white world were two classes of masters: those who hunted well, and + those who were considered by them as their friends and equals. Why they + should be so considered Memba Sasa did not know, but he trusted the + Hunter's judgment. These were the bwanas, or masters. All the rest were + merely mazungos, or, “white men.” To their faces he called them bwana, but + in his heart he considered them not. + </p> + <p> + Observe, I say those who hunted well. Memba Sasa, in his profession as + gunbearer, had to accompany those who hunted badly. In them he took no + pride; from them he held aloof in spirit; but for them he did his + conscientious best, upheld by the dignity of his profession. + </p> + <p> + For to Mamba Sasa that profession was the proudest to which a black man + could aspire. He prided himself on mastering its every detail, in + accomplishing its every duty minutely and exactly. The major virtues of a + gunbearer are not to be despised by anybody; for they comprise great + physical courage, endurance, and loyalty: the accomplishments of a + gunbearer are worthy of a man's best faculties, for they include the + ability to see and track game, to take and prepare properly any sort of a + trophy, field taxidermy, butchering game meat, wood and plainscraft, the + knowledge of how properly to care for firearms in all sorts of + circumstances, and a half hundred other like minutiae. Memba Sasa knew + these things, and he performed them with the artist's love for details; + and his keen eyes were always spying for new ways. + </p> + <p> + At a certain time I shot an egret, and prepared to take the skin. Memba + Sasa asked if he might watch me do it. Two months later, having killed a + really gaudy peacocklike member of the guinea fowl tribe, I handed it over + to him with instructions to take off the breast feathers before giving it + to the cook. In a half hour he brought me the complete skin, I examined it + carefully, and found it to be well done in every respect. Now in skinning + a bird there are a number of delicate and unusual operations, such as + stripping the primary quills from the bone, cutting the ear cover, and the + like. I had explained none of them; and yet Memba Sasa, unassisted, had + grasped their method from a single demonstration and had remembered them + all two months later! C. had a trick in making the second skin incision of + a trophy head that had the effect of giving a better purchase to the + knife. Its exact description would be out of place here, but it actually + consisted merely in inserting the point of the knife two inches away from + the place it is ordinarily inserted. One day we noticed that Memba Sasa + was making his incisions in that manner. I went to Africa fully determined + to care for my own rifle. The modern high-velocity gun needs rather + especial treatment; mere wiping out will not do. I found that Memba Sasa + already knew all about boiling water, and the necessity for having it + really boiling, about subsequent metal sweating, and all the rest. After + watching him at work I concluded, rightly, that he would do a lot better + job than I. + </p> + <p> + To the new employer Memba Sasa maintained an attitude of strict + professional loyalty. His personal respect was upheld by the necessity of + every man to do his job in the world. Memba Sasa did his. He cleaned the + rifles; he saw that everything was in order for the day's march; he was at + my elbow all ways with more cartridges and the spare rifle; he trailed and + looked conscientiously. In his attitude was the stolidity of the wooden + Indian. No action of mine, no joke on the part of his companions, no + circumstance in the varying fortunes of the field gained from him the + faintest flicker of either approval, disapproval, or interest. When we + returned to camp he deposited my water bottle and camera, seized the + cleaning implements, and departed to his own campfire. In the field he + pointed out game that I did not see, and waited imperturbably the result + of my shot. + </p> + <p> + As I before stated, the result of that shot for the first five days was + very apt to be nil. This, at the time, puzzled and grieved me a lot. + Occasionally I looked at Memba Sasa to catch some sign of sympathy, + disgust, contempt, or-rarely-triumph at a lucky shot. Nothing. He gently + but firmly took away my rifle, reloaded it, and handed it back; then + waited respectfully for my next move. He knew no English, and I no + Swahili. + </p> + <p> + But as time went on this attitude changed. I was armed with the new + Springfield rifle, a weapon with 2,700 feet velocity, and with a + marvellously flat trajectory. This commanding advantage, combined with a + very long familiarity with firearms, enabled me to do some fairish + shooting, after the strangeness of these new conditions had been mastered. + Memba Sasa began to take a dawning interest in me as a possible source of + pride. We began to develop between us a means of communication. I set + myself deliberately to learn his language, and after he had cautiously + determined that I really meant it, he took the greatest pains-always + gravely-to teach me. A more human feeling sprang up between us. + </p> + <p> + But we had still the final test to undergo-that of danger and the tight + corner. + </p> + <p> + In close quarters the gunbearer has the hardest job in the world. I have + the most profound respect for his absolute courage. Even to a man armed + and privileged to shoot and defend himself, a charging lion is an awesome + thing, requiring a certain amount of coolness and resolution to face + effectively. Think of the gunbearer at his elbow, depending not on himself + but on the courage and coolness of another. He cannot do one solitary + thing to defend himself. To bolt for the safety of a tree is to beg the + question completely, to brand himself as a shenzi forever; to fire a gun + in any circumstances is to beg the question also, for the white man must + be able to depend absolutely on his second gun in an emergency. Those + things are outside consideration, even, of any respectable gunbearer. In + addition, he must keep cool. He must see clearly in the thickest + excitement; must be ready unobtrusively to pass up the second gun in the + position most convenient for immediate use, to seize the other and to + perform the finicky task of reloading correctly while some rampageous + beast is raising particular thunder a few yards away. All this in absolute + dependence on the ability of his bwana to deal with the situation. I can + confess very truly that once or twice that little unobtrusive touch of + Memba Sasa crouched close to my elbow steadied me with the thought of how + little right I-with a rifle in my hand-had to be scared. And the best + compliment I ever received I overheard by chance. I had wounded a lion + when out by myself, and had returned to camp for a heavier rifle and for + Memba Sasa to do the trailing. From my tent I overheard the following + conversation between Memba Sasa and the cook: + </p> + <p> + “The grass is high,” said the cook. “Are you not afraid to go after a + wounded lion with only one white man?” + </p> + <p> + “My one white man is enough,” replied Memba Sasa. + </p> + <p> + It is a quality of courage that I must confess would be quite beyond me-to + depend entirely on the other fellow, and not at all on myself. This + courage is always remarkable to me, even in the case of the gunbearer who + knows all about the man whose heels he follows. But consider that of the + gunbearer's first experience with a stranger. The former has no idea of + how the white man will act; whether he will get nervous, get actually + panicky, lose his shooting ability, and generally mess things up. + Nevertheless, he follows his master in, and he stands by. If the hunter + fails, the gunbearer will probably die. To me it is rather fine: for he + does it, not from the personal affection and loyalty which will carry men + far, but from a sheer sense of duty and pride of caste. The quiet pride of + the really good men, like Memba Sasa, is easy to understand. + </p> + <p> + And the records are full of stories of the white man who has not made + good: of the coward who bolts, leaving his black man to take the brunt of + it, or who sticks but loses his head. Each new employer must be very + closely and interestedly scrutinized. In the light of subsequent + experience, I can no longer wonder at Memba Sasa's first detached and + impersonal attitude. + </p> + <p> + As time went on, however, and we grew to know each other better, this + attitude entirely changed. At first the change consisted merely in + dropping the disinterested pose as respects game. For it was a pose. Memba + Sasa was most keenly interested in game whenever it was an object of + pursuit. It did not matter how common the particular species might be: if + we wanted it, Memba Sasa would look upon it with eager ferocity; and if we + did not want it, he paid no attention to it at all. When we started in the + morning, or in the relaxation of our return at night, I would mention + casually a few of the things that might prove acceptable. + </p> + <p> + “To-morrow we want kongoni for boys' meat, or zebra; and some meat for + masters-Tommy, impala, oribi,” and Memba Sasa knew as well as I did what + we needed to fill out our trophy collection. When he caught sight of one + of these animals his whole countenance changed. The lines of his face set, + his lips drew back from his teeth, his eyes fairly darted fire in the + fixity of their gaze. He was like a fine pointer dog on birds, or like the + splendid savage he was at heart. + </p> + <p> + “M'palla!” he hissed; and then after a second, in a restrained fierce + voice, “Na-ona? Do you see?” + </p> + <p> + If I did not see he pointed cautiously. His own eyes never left the beast. + Rarely he stayed put while I made the stalk. More often he glided like a + snake at my heels. If the bullet hit, Memba Sasa always exhaled a grunt of + satisfaction-“hah!”-in which triumph and satisfaction mingled with a faint + derision at the unfortunate beast. In case of a trophy he squatted + anxiously at the animal's head while I took my measurements, assisting + very intelligently with the tape line. When I had finished, he always + looked up at me with wrinkled brow. + </p> + <p> + “Footie n'gapi?” he inquired. This means literally, “How many feet?”, + footie being his euphemistic invention of a word for the tape. I would + tell him how many “footie” and how many “inchie” the measurement proved to + be. From the depths of his wonderful memory he would dig up the + measurements of another beast of the same sort I had killed months back, + but which he had remembered accurately from a single hearing. + </p> + <p> + The shooting of a beast he always detailed to his few cronies in camp: the + other gunbearers, and one or two from his own tribe. He always used the + first person plural, “we” did so and so; and took an inordinate pride in + making out his bwana as being an altogether superior person to any of the + other gunbearer's bwanas. Over a miss he always looked sad; but with a + dignified sadness as though we had met with undeserved misfortune sent by + malignant gods. If there were any possible alleviating explanation, Memba + Sasa made the most of it, provided our fiasco was witnessed. If we were + alone in our disgrace, he buried the incident fathoms deep. He took an + inordinate pride in our using the minimum number of cartridges, and would + explain to me in a loud tone of voice that we had cartridges enough in the + belt. When we had not cartridges enough, he would sneak around after dark + to get some more. At times he would even surreptitiously “lift” a few from + B.'s gunbearer! + </p> + <p> + When in camp, with his “cazi” finished, Memba Sasa did fancy work! The + picture of this powerful half-savage, his fierce brows bent over a tiny + piece of linen, his strong fingers fussing with little stitches, will + always appeal to my sense of the incongruous. Through a piece of linen he + punched holes with a porcupine quill. Then he “buttonhole” stitched the + holes, and embroidered patterns between them with fine white thread. The + result was an openwork pattern heavily encrusted with beautiful fine + embroidery. It was most astounding stuff, such as you would expect from a + French convent, perhaps, but never from an African savage. He did a + circular piece and a long narrow piece. They took him three months to + finish, and then he sewed them together to form a skull cap. Billy, + entranced with the lacelike delicacy of the work, promptly captured it; + whereupon Memba Sasa philosophically started another. + </p> + <p> + By this time he had identified himself with my fortunes. We had become a + firm whose business it was to carry out the affairs of a single + personality-me. Memba Sasa, among other things, undertook the dignity. + When I walked through a crowd, Memba Sasa zealously kicked everybody out + of my royal path. When I started to issue a command, Memba Sasa finished + it and amplified it and put a snapper on it. When I came into camp, Memba + Sasa saw to it personally that my tent went up promptly and properly, + although that was really not part of his “cazi” at all. And when somewhere + beyond my ken some miserable boy had committed a crime, I never remained + long in ignorance of that fact. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps I happened to be sitting in my folding chair idly smoking a pipe + and reading a book. Across the open places of the camp would stride Memba + Sasa, very erect, very rigid, moving in short indignant jerks, his eye + flashing fire. Behind him would sneak a very hang-dog boy. Memba Sasa + marched straight up to me, faced right, and drew one side, his silence + sparkling with honest indignation. + </p> + <p> + “Just look at THAT!” his attitude seemed to say, “Could you believe such + human depravity possible? And against OUR authority?” + </p> + <p> + He always stood, quite rigid, waiting for me to speak. + </p> + <p> + “Well, Memba Sasa?” I would inquire, after I had enjoyed the show a + little. + </p> + <p> + In a few restrained words he put the case before me, always briefly, + always with a scornful dignity. This shenzi has done so-and-so. + </p> + <p> + We will suppose the case fairly serious. I listened to the man's story, if + necessary called a few witnesses, delivered judgment. All the while Memba + Sasa stood at rigid attention, fairly bristling virtue, like the good dog + standing by at the punishment of the bad dogs. And in his attitude was a + subtle triumph, as one would say: “You see! Fool with my bwana, will you! + Just let anybody try to get funny with US!” Judgment pronounced-we have + supposed the case serious, you remember-Memba Sasa himself applied the + lash. I think he really enjoyed that; but it was a restrained joy. The + whip descended deliberately, without excitement. + </p> + <p> + The man's devotion in unusual circumstances was beyond praise. Danger or + excitement incite a sort of loyalty in any good man; but humdrum, + disagreeable difficulty is a different matter. + </p> + <p> + One day we marched over a country of thorn-scrub desert. Since two days we + had been cut loose from water, and had been depending on a small amount + carried in zinc drums. Now our only reasons for faring were a conical + hill, over the horizon, and the knowledge of a river somewhere beyond. How + far beyond, or in what direction, we did not know. We had thirty men with + us, a more or less ragtag lot, picked up anyhow in the bazaars. They were + soft, ill-disciplined and uncertain. For five or six hours they marched + well enough. Then the sun began to get very hot, and some of them began to + straggle. They had, of course, no intention of deserting, for their only + hope of surviving lay in staying with us; but their loads had become + heavy, and they took too many rests. We put a good man behind, but without + much avail. In open country a safari can be permitted to straggle over + miles, for always it can keep in touch by sight; but in this thorn-scrub + desert, that looks all alike, a man fifty yards out of sight is fifty + yards lost. We would march fifteen or twenty minutes, then sit down to + wait until the rearmost men had straggled in, perhaps a half hour later. + And we did not dare move on until the tale of our thirty was complete. At + this rate progress was very slow, and as the fierce equatorial sun + increased in strength, became always slower still. The situation became + alarming. We were quite out of water, and we had no idea where water was + to be found. To complicate matters, the thornbrush thickened to a jungle. + </p> + <p> + My single companion and I consulted. It was agreed that I was to push on + as rapidly as possible to locate the water, while he was to try to hold + the caravan together. Accordingly, Memba Sasa and I marched ahead. We + tried to leave a trail to follow; and we hoped fervently that our guess as + to the stream's course would prove to be a good one. At the end of two + hours and a half we found the water-a beautiful jungle-shaded stream-and + filled ourselves up therewith. Our duty was accomplished, for we had left + a trail to be followed. Nevertheless, I felt I should like to take back + our full canteens to relieve the worst cases. Memba Sasa would not hear of + it, and even while I was talking to him seized the canteens and + disappeared. + </p> + <p> + At the end of two hours more camp was made, after a fashion; but still + four men had failed to come in. We built a smudge in the hope of guiding + them; and gave them up. If they had followed our trail, they should have + been in long ago; if they had missed that trail, heaven knows where they + were, or where we should go to find them. Dusk was falling, and, to tell + the truth, we were both very much done up by a long day at 115 degrees in + the shade under an equatorial sun. The missing men would climb trees away + from the beasts, and we would organize a search next day. As we debated + these things, to us came Memba Sasa. + </p> + <p> + “I want to take 'Winchi,'” said he. “Winchi” is his name for my Winchester + 405. + </p> + <p> + “Why?” we asked. + </p> + <p> + “If I can take Winchi, I will find the men,” said he. + </p> + <p> + This was entirely voluntary on his part. He, as well as we, had had a hard + day, and he had made a double journey for part of it. We gave him Winchi + and he departed. Sometime after midnight he returned with the missing men. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps a dozen times all told he volunteered for these special services; + once in particular, after a fourteen-hour day, he set off at nine o'clock + at night in a soaking rainstorm, wandered until two o'clock, and returned + unsuccessful, to rouse me and report gravely that he could not find them. + For these services he neither received nor expected special reward. And + catch him doing anything outside his strict “cazi” except for US. + </p> + <p> + We were always very ceremonious and dignified in our relations on such + occasions. Memba Sasa would suddenly appear, deposit the rifle in its + place, and stand at attention. + </p> + <p> + “Well, Memba Sasa?” I would inquire. + </p> + <p> + “I have found the men; they are in camp.” + </p> + <p> + Then I would give him his reward. It was either the word “assanti,” or the + two words “assanti sana,” according to the difficulty and importance of + the task accomplished. They mean simply “thank you” and “thank you very + much.” + </p> + <p> + Once or twice, after a particularly long and difficult month or so, when + Memba Sasa has been almost literally my alter ego, I have called him up + for special praise. “I am very pleased with you, Memba Sasa,” said I. “You + have done your cazi well. You are a good man.” + </p> + <p> + He accepted this with dignity, without deprecation, and without the idiocy + of spoken gratitude. He agreed perfectly with everything I said! “Yes” was + his only comment. I liked it. + </p> + <p> + On our ultimate success in a difficult enterprise Memba Sasa set great + store; and his delight in ultimate success was apparently quite apart from + personal considerations. We had been hunting greater kudu for five weeks + before we finally landed one. The greater kudu is, with the bongo, easily + the prize beast in East Africa, and very few are shot. By a piece of bad + luck, for him, I had sent Memba Sasa out in a different direction to look + for signs the afternoon we finally got one. The kill was made just at + dusk. C. and I, with Mavrouki, built a fire and stayed, while Kongoni went + to camp after men. There he broke the news to Memba Sasa that the great + prize had been captured, and he absent. Memba Sasa was hugely delighted, + nor did he in any way show what must have been a great disappointment to + him. After repeating the news triumphantly to every one in camp, he came + out to where we were waiting, arrived quite out of breath, and grabbed me + by the hand in heartiest congratulation. + </p> + <p> + Memba Sasa went in not at all for personal ornamentation, any more than he + allowed his dignity to be broken by anything resembling emotionalism. No + tattoo marks, no ear ornaments, no rings nor bracelets. He never even + picked up an ostrich feather for his head. On the latter he sometimes wore + an old felt hat; sometimes, more picturesquely, an orange-coloured fillet. + Khaki shirt, khaki “shorts,” blue puttees, besides his knife and my own + accoutrements: that was all. In town he was all white clad, a long fine + linen robe reaching to his feet; and one of the lacelike skull caps he was + so very skilful at making. + </p> + <p> + That will do for a preliminary sketch. If you follow these pages, you will + hear more of him; he is worth it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + VI. THE FIRST GAME CAMP + </h2> + <p> + In the review of “first” impressions with which we are concerned, we must + now skip a week or ten days to stop at what is known in our diaries as the + First Ford of the Guaso Nyero River. + </p> + <p> + These ten days were not uneventful. We had crossed the wide and undulating + plains, had paused at some tall beautiful falls plunging several hundred + feet into the mysteriousness of a dense forest on which we looked down. + There we had enjoyed some duck, goose and snipe shooting; had made the + acquaintance of a few of the Masai, and had looked with awe on our first + hippo tracks in the mud beside a tiny ditchlike stream. Here and there + were small game herds. In the light of later experience we now realize + that these were nothing at all; but at the time the sight of full-grown + wild animals out in plain sight was quite wonderful. At the close of the + day's march we always wandered out with our rifles to see what we could + find. Everything was new to us, and we had our men to feed. Our shooting + gradually improved until we had overcome the difficulties peculiar to this + new country and were doing as well as we could do anywhere. + </p> + <p> + Now, at the end of a hard day through scrub, over rolling bold hills, and + down a scrub brush slope, we had reached the banks of the Guaso Nyero. + </p> + <p> + At this point, above the junction of its principal tributary rivers, it + was a stream about sixty or seventy feet wide, flowing swift between high + banks. A few trees marked its course, but nothing like a jungle. The ford + was in swift water just above a deep still pool suspected of crocodiles. + We found the water about waist deep, stretched a rope across, and forcibly + persuaded our eager boys that one at a time was about what the situation + required. On the other side we made camp on an open flat. Having marched + so far continuously, we resolved to settle down for a while. The men had + been without sufficient meat; and we desired very much to look over the + country closely, and to collect a few heads as trophies. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps a word might not come amiss as to the killing of game. The case is + here quite different from the condition of affairs at home. Here animal + life is most extraordinarily abundant; it furnishes the main food supply + to the traveller; and at present is probably increasing slightly, + certainly holding its own. Whatever toll the sportsman or traveller take + is as nothing compared to what he might take if he were an unscrupulous + game hog. If his cartridges and his shoulder held out, he could easily + kill a hundred animals a day instead of the few he requires. In that + sense, then, no man slaughters indiscriminately. During the course of a + year he probably shoots from two hundred to two hundred and fifty beasts, + provided he is travelling with an ordinary sized caravan. This, the + experts say, is about the annual toll of one lion. If the traveller gets + his lion, he plays even with the fauna of the country; if he gets two or + more lions, he has something to his credit. This probably explains why the + game is still so remarkably abundant near the road and on the very + outskirts of the town. + </p> + <p> + We were now much in need of a fair quantity of meat, both for immediate + consumption of our safari, and to make biltong or jerky. Later, in like + circumstances, we should have sallied forth in a businesslike fashion, + dropped the requisite number of zebra and hartebeeste as near camp as + possible, and called it a job. Now, however, being new to the game, we + much desired good trophies in variety. Therefore, we scoured the country + far and wide for desirable heads; and the meat waited upon the acquisition + of the trophy. + </p> + <p> + This, then, might be called our first Shooting Camp. Heretofore we had + travelled every day. Now the boys settled down to what the native porter + considers the height of bliss: a permanent camp with plenty to eat. Each + morning we were off before daylight, riding our horses, and followed by + the gunbearers, the syces, and fifteen or twenty porters. The country rose + from the river in a long gentle slope grown with low brush and scattered + candlestick euphorbias. This slope ended in a scattered range of low rocky + buttes. Through any one of the various openings between them, we rode to + find ourselves on the borders of an undulating grass country of low + rounded hills with wide valleys winding between them. In these valleys and + on these hills was the game. + </p> + <p> + Daylight of the day I would tell about found us just at the edge of the + little buttes. Down one of the slopes the growing half light revealed two + oryx feeding, magnificent big creatures, with straight rapier horns three + feet in length. These were most exciting and desirable, so off my horse I + got and began to sneak up on them through the low tufts of grass. They fed + quite calmly. I congratulated myself, and slipped nearer. Without even + looking in my direction, they trotted away. Somewhat chagrined, I returned + to my companions, and we rode on. + </p> + <p> + Then across a mile-wide valley we saw two dark objects in the tall grass; + and almost immediately identified these as rhinoceroses, the first we had + seen. They stood there side by side, gazing off into space, doing nothing + in a busy morning world. After staring at them through our glasses for + some time, we organized a raid. At the bottom of the valley we left the + horses and porters; lined up, each with his gunbearer at his elbow; and + advanced on the enemy. B. was to have the shot According to all the books + we should have been able, provided we were downwind and made no noise, to + have approached within fifty or sixty yards undiscovered. However, at a + little over a hundred yards they both turned tail and departed at a swift + trot, their heads held well up and their tails sticking up straight and + stiff in the most ridiculous fashion. No good shooting at them in such + circumstances, so we watched them go, still keeping up their slashing + trot, growing smaller and smaller in the distance until finally they + disappeared over the top of a swell. + </p> + <p> + We set ourselves methodically to following them. It took us over an hour + of steady plodding before we again came in sight of them. They were this + time nearer the top of a hill, and we saw instantly that the curve of the + slope was such that we could approach within fifty yards before coming in + sight at all. Therefore, once more we dismounted, lined up in battle + array, and advanced. + </p> + <p> + Sensations? Distinctly nervous, decidedly alert, and somewhat + self-congratulatory that I was not more scared. No man can predicate how + efficient he is going to be in the presence of really dangerous game. Only + the actual trial will show. This is not a question of courage at all, but + of purely involuntary reaction of the nerves. Very few men are physical + cowards. They will and do face anything. But a great many men are rendered + inefficient by the way their nervous systems act under stress. It is not a + matter for control by will power in the slightest degree. So the big game + hunter must determine by actual trial whether it so happens that the great + excitement of danger renders his hand shaky or steady. The excitement in + either case is the same. No man is ever “cool” in the sense that personal + danger is of the same kind of indifference to him as clambering aboard a + street car. He must always be lifted above himself, must enter an extra + normal condition to meet extra normal circumstances. He can always control + his conduct; but he can by no means always determine the way the + inevitable excitement will affect his coordinations. And unfortunately, in + the final result it does not matter how brave a man is, but how closely he + can hold. If he finds that his nervous excitement renders him unsteady, he + has no business ever to tackle dangerous game alone. If, on the other + hand, he discovers that IDENTICALLY THE SAME nervous excitement happens to + steady his front sight to rocklike rigidity-a rigidity he could not + possibly attain in normal conditions-then he will probably keep out of + trouble. + </p> + <p> + To amplify this further by a specific instance: I hunted for a short time + in Africa with a man who was always eager for exciting encounters, whose + pluck was admirable in every way, but whose nervous reaction so manifested + itself that he was utterly unable to do even decent shooting at any range. + Furthermore, his very judgment and power of observation were so obscured + that he could not remember afterward with any accuracy what had + happened-which way the beast was pointing, how many there were of them, in + which direction they went, how many shots were fired, in short all the + smaller details of the affair. He thought he remembered. After the show + was over it was quite amusing to get his version of the incident. It was + almost always so wide of the fact as to be little recognizable. And, mind + you, he was perfectly sincere in his belief, and absolutely courageous. + Only he was quite unfitted by physical make-up for a big game hunter; and + I was relieved when, after a short time, his route and mine separated. + </p> + <p> + Well, we clambered up that slope with a fine compound of tension, + expectation, and latent uneasiness as to just what was going to happen, + anyway. Finally, we raised the backs of the beasts, stooped, sneaked a + little nearer, and finally at a signal stood upright perhaps forty yards + from the brutes. + </p> + <p> + For the first time I experienced a sensation I was destined many times to + repeat-that of the sheer size of the animals. Menagerie rhinoceroses had + been of the smaller Indian variety; and in any case most menagerie beasts + are more or less stunted. These two, facing us, their little eyes + blinking, looked like full-grown ironclads on dry land. The moment we + stood erect B. fired at the larger of the two. Instantly they turned and + were off at a tearing run. I opened fire, and B. let loose his second + barrel. At about two hundred and fifty yards the big rhinoceros suddenly + fell on his side, while the other continued his flight. It was all + over-very exciting because we got excited, but not in the least dangerous. + </p> + <p> + The boys were delighted, for here was meat in plenty for everybody. We + measured the beast, photographed him, marvelled at his immense size, and + turned him over to the gunbearers for treatment. In half an hour or so a + long string of porters headed across the hills in the direction of camp, + many miles distant, each carrying his load either of meat, or the + trophies. Rhinoceros hide, properly treated, becomes as transparent as + amber, and so from it can be made many very beautiful souvenirs, such as + bowls, trays, paper knives, table tops, whips, canes, and the like. And, + of course, the feet of one's first rhino are always saved for cigar boxes + or inkstands. + </p> + <p> + Already we had an admiring and impatient audience. From all directions + came the carrion birds. They circled far up in the heavens; they shot + downward like plummets from a great height with an inspiring roar of + wings; they stood thick in a solemn circle all around the scene of the + kill; they rose with a heavy flapping when we moved in their direction. + Skulking forms flashed in the grass, and occasionally the pointed ears of + a jackal would rise inquiringly. + </p> + <p> + It was by now nearly noon. The sun shone clear and hot; the heat shimmer + rose in clouds from the brown surface of the hills. In all directions we + could make out small gameherds resting motionless in the heat of the day, + the mirage throwing them into fantastic shapes. While the final + disposition was being made of the defunct rhinoceros I wandered over the + edge of the hill to see what I could see, and fairly blundered on a herd + of oryx at about a hundred and fifty yards range. They looked at me a + startled instant, then leaped away to the left at a tremendous speed. By a + lucky shot, I bowled one over. He was a beautiful beast, with his black + and white face and his straight rapierlike horns nearly three feet long, + and I was most pleased to get him. Memba Sasa came running at the sound of + the shot. We set about preparing the head. + </p> + <p> + Then through a gap in the hills far to the left we saw a little black + speck moving rapidly in our direction. At the end of a minute we could + make it out as the second rhinoceros. He had run heaven knows how many + miles away, and now he was returning; whether with some idea of rejoining + his companion or from sheer chance, I do not know. At any rate, here he + was, still ploughing along at his swinging trot. His course led him along + a side hill about four hundred yards from where the oryx lay. When he was + directly opposite I took the Springfield and fired, not at him, but at a + spot five or six feet in front of his nose. The bullet threw up a column + of dust. Rhino brought up short with astonishment, wheeled to the left, + and made off at a gallop. I dropped another bullet in front of him. Again + he stopped, changed direction, and made off. For the third time I hit the + ground in front of him. Then he got angry, put his head down and charged + the spot. + </p> + <p> + Five more shots I expended on the amusement of that rhinoceros; and at the + last had run furiously charging back and forth in a twenty-yard space, + very angry at the little puffing, screeching bullets, but quite unable to + catch one. Then he made up his mind and departed the way he had come, + finally disappearing as a little rapidly moving black speck through the + gap in the hills where we had first caught sight of him. + </p> + <p> + We finished caring for the oryx, and returned to camp. To our surprise we + found we were at least seven or eight miles out. + </p> + <p> + In this fashion days passed very quickly. The early dewy start in the cool + of the morning, the gradual grateful warming up of sunrise, and + immediately after, the rest during the midday heats under a shady tree, + the long trek back to camp at sunset, the hot bath after the toilsome + day-all these were very pleasant. Then the swift falling night, and the + gleam of many tiny fires springing up out of the darkness; with each its + sticks full of meat roasting, and its little circle of men, their skins + gleaming in the light. As we sat smoking, we would become aware that + M'ganga, the headman, was standing silent awaiting orders. Some one would + happen to see the white of his eyes, or perhaps he might smile so that his + teeth would become visible. Otherwise he might stand there an hour, and no + one the wiser, for he was respectfully silent, and exactly the colour of + the night. + </p> + <p> + We would indicate to him our plans for the morrow, and he would disappear. + Then at a distance of twenty or thirty feet from the front of our tents a + tiny tongue of flame would lick up. Dark figures could be seen + manipulating wood. A blazing fire sprang up, against which we could see + the motionless and picturesque figure of Saa-sita (Six o'Clock), the + askari of the first night watch, leaning on his musket. He was a most + picturesque figure, for his fancy ran to original headdresses, and at the + moment he affected a wonderful upstanding structure made of marabout + wings. + </p> + <p> + At this sign that the night had begun, we turned in. A few hyenas moaned, + a few jackals barked: otherwise the first part of the night was silent, + for the hunters were at their silent business, and the hunted were “layin' + low and sayin' nuffin'.” + </p> + <p> + Day after day we rode out, exploring the country in different directions. + The great uncertainty as to what of interest we would find filled the + hours with charm. Sometimes we clambered about the cliffs of the buttes + trying to find klipspringers; again we ran miles pursuing the gigantic + eland. I in turn got my first rhinoceros, with no more danger than had + attended the killing of B.'s. On this occasion, however, I had my first + experience of the lightning skill of the first-class gunbearer. Having + fired both barrels, and staggered the beast, I threw open the breech and + withdrew the empty cartridges, intending, of course, as my next move to + fish two more out of my belt. The empty shells were hardly away from the + chambers, however, when a long brown arm shot over my right shoulder and + popped two fresh cartridges in the breech. So astonished was I at this + unexpected apparition, that for a second or so I actually forgot to close + the gun. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + VII. ON THE MARCH + </h2> + <p> + After leaving the First Game Camp, we travelled many hours and miles over + rolling hills piling ever higher and higher until they broke through a + pass to illimitable plains. These plains were mantled with the dense + scrub, looking from a distance and from above like the nap of soft green + velvet. Here and there this scrub broke in round or oval patches of grass + plain. Great mountain ranges peered over the edge of a horizon. Lesser + mountain peaks of fantastic shapes-sheer Yosemite cliffs, single buttes, + castles-had ventured singly from behind that same horizon barricade. The + course of a river was marked by a meandering line of green jungle. + </p> + <p> + It took us two days to get to that river. Our intermediate camp was + halfway down the pass. We ousted a hundred indignant straw-coloured + monkeys and twice as many baboons from the tiny flat above the water hole. + They bobbed away cursing over their shoulders at us. Next day we debouched + on the plains. They were rolling, densely grown, covered with volcanic + stones, swarming with game of various sorts. The men marched well. They + were happy, for they had had a week of meat; and each carried a light + lunch of sun-dried biltong or jerky. Some mistaken individuals had + attempted to bring along some “fresh” meat. We found it advisable to pass + to windward of these; but they themselves did not seem to mind. + </p> + <p> + It became very hot; for we were now descending to the lower elevations. + The marching through long grass and over volcanic stones was not easy. + Shortly we came out on stumbly hills, mostly rock, very dry, grown with + cactus and discouraged desiccated thorn scrub. Here the sun reflected + powerfully and the bearers began to flag. + </p> + <p> + Then suddenly, without warning, we pitched over a little rise to the + river. + </p> + <p> + No more marvellous contrast could have been devised. From the blasted + barren scrub country we plunged into the lush jungle. It was not a very + wide jungle, but it was sufficient. The trees were large and variegated, + reaching to a high and spacious upper story above the ground tangle. From + the massive limbs hung vines, festooned and looped like great serpents. + Through this upper corridor flitted birds of bright hue or striking + variegation. We did not know many of them by name, nor did we desire to; + but were content with the impression of vivid flashing movement and + colour. Various monkeys swung, leaped and galloped slowly away before our + advance; pausing to look back at us curiously, the ruffs of fur standing + out all around their little black faces. The lower half of the forest + jungle, however, had no spaciousness at all, but a certain breathless + intimacy. Great leaved plants as tall as little trees, and trees as small + as big plants, bound together by vines, made up the “deep impenetrable + jungle” of our childhood imagining. Here were rustlings, sudden + scurryings, half-caught glimpses, once or twice a crash as some greater + animal made off. Here and there through the thicket wandered well beaten + trails, wide, but low, so that to follow them one would have to bend + double. These were the paths of rhinoceroses. The air smelt warm and moist + and earthy, like the odour of a greenhouse. + </p> + <p> + We skirted this jungle until it gave way to let the plain down to the + river. Then, in an open grove of acacias, and fairly on the river's bank, + we pitched our tents. + </p> + <p> + These acacia trees were very noble big chaps, with many branches and a + thick shade. In their season they are wonderfully blossomed with white, + with yellow, sometimes even with vivid red flowers. Beneath them was only + a small matter of ferns to clear away. + </p> + <p> + Before us the sodded bank rounded off ten feet the river itself. At this + point far up in its youth it was a friendly river. Its noble width ran + over shallows of yellow sand or of small pebbles. Save for unexpected deep + holes one could wade across it anywhere. Yet it was very wide, with still + reaches of water, with islands of gigantic papyrus, with sand bars + dividing the current, and with always the vista for a greater or lesser + distance down through the jungle along its banks. From our canvas chairs + we could look through on one side to the arid country, and on the other to + this tropical wonderland. + </p> + <p> + Yes, at this point in its youth it was indeed a friendly river in every + sense of the word. There are three reasons, ordinarily, why one cannot + bathe in the African rivers. In the first place, they are nearly all + disagreeably muddy; in the second place, cold water in a tropical climate + causes horrible congestions; in the third place they swarm with crocodiles + and hippos. But this river was as yet unpolluted by the alluvial soil of + the lower countries; the sun on its shallows had warmed its waters almost + to blood heat; and the beasts found no congenial haunts in these clear + shoals. Almost before our tents were up the men were splashing. And always + my mental image of that river's beautiful expanse must include round black + heads floating like gourds where the water ran smoothest. + </p> + <p> + Our tents stood all in a row facing the stream, the great trees at their + backs. Down in the grove the men had pitched their little white shelters. + Happily they settled down to ease. Settling down to ease, in the case of + the African porter, consists in discarding as many clothes as possible. + While on the march he wears everything he owns; whether from pride or a + desire to simplify transportation I am unable to say. He is supplied by + his employer with a blanket and jersey. As supplementals he can generally + produce a half dozen white man's ill-assorted garments: an old shooting + coat, a ragged pair of khaki breeches, a kitchen tablecloth for a skirt, + or something of the sort. If he can raise an overcoat he is happy, + especially if it happen to be a long, thick WINTER overcoat. The possessor + of such a garment will wear it conscientiously throughout the longest + journey and during the hottest noons. But when he relaxes in camp, he puts + away all these prideful possessions and turns out in the savage simplicity + of his red blanket. Draped negligently, sometimes very negligently, in + what may be termed semi-toga fashion, he stalks about or squats before his + little fire in all the glory of a regained savagery. The contrast of the + red with his red bronze or black skin, the freedom and grace of his + movements, the upright carriage of his fine figure, and the flickering + savagery playing in his eyes are very effective. + </p> + <p> + Our men occupied their leisure variously and happily. A great deal of time + they spent before their tiny fires roasting meat and talking. This talk + was almost invariably of specific personal experiences. They bathed + frequently and with pleasure. They slept. Between times they fashioned + ingenious affairs of ornament or use: bows and arrows, throwing clubs, + snuff-boxes of the tips of antelope horns, bound prettily with bright + wire, wooden swords beautifully carved in exact imitation of the white + man's service weapon, and a hundred other such affairs. At this particular + time also they were much occupied in making sandals against the thorns. + These were flat soles of rawhide, the edges pounded to make them curl up a + trifle over the foot, fastened by thongs; very ingenious, and very useful. + To their task they brought song. The labour of Africa is done to song; + weird minor chanting starting high in the falsetto to trickle unevenly + down to the lower registers, or where the matter is one of serious effort, + an antiphony of solo and chorus. From all parts of the camp come these + softly modulated chantings, low and sweet, occasionally breaking into full + voice as the inner occasion swells, then almost immediately falling again + to the murmuring undertone of more concentrated attention. + </p> + <p> + The red blanket was generally worn knotted from one shoulder or bound + around the waist Malay fashion. When it turned into a cowl, with a + miserable and humpbacked expression, it became the Official Badge of + Illness. No matter what was the matter that was the proper thing to do-to + throw the blanket over the head and to assume as miserable a demeanour as + possible. A sore toe demanded just as much concentrated woe as a case of + pneumonia. Sick call was cried after the day's work was finished. Then + M'ganga or one of the askaris lifted up his voice. + </p> + <p> + “N'gonjwa! n'gonjwa!” he shouted; and at the shout the red cowls gathered + in front of the tent. Three things were likely to be the matter: too much + meat, fever, or pus infection from slight wounds. To these in the rainy + season would be added the various sorts of colds. That meant either Epsom + salts, quinine, or a little excursion with the lancet and permanganate. + The African traveller gets to be heap big medicine man within these narrow + limits. + </p> + <p> + All the red cowls squatted miserably, oh, very miserably, in a row. The + headman stood over them rather fiercely. We surveyed the lot + contemplatively, hoping to heaven that nothing complicated was going to + turn up. One of the tent boys hovered in the background as dispensing + chemist. + </p> + <p> + “Well,” said F. at last, “what's the matter with you?” + </p> + <p> + The man indicated pointed to his head and the back of his neck and + groaned. If he had a slight headache he groaned just as much as though his + head were splitting. F. asked a few questions, and took his temperature. + The clinical thermometer is in itself considered big medicine, and often + does much good. + </p> + <p> + “Too much meat, my friend,” remarked F. in English, and to his boy in + Swahili, “bring the cup.” + </p> + <p> + He put in this cup a triple dose of Epsom salts. The African requires + three times a white man's dose. This, pathologically, was all that was + required: but psychologically the job was just begun. Your African can do + wonderful things with his imagination. If he thinks he is going to die, + die he will, and very promptly, even though he is ailing of the most + trivial complaint. If he thinks he is going to get well, he is very apt to + do so in face of extraordinary odds. Therefore the white man desires not + only to start his patient's internal economy with Epsom salts, but also to + stir his faith. To this end F. added to that triple dose of medicine a + spoonful of Chutney, one of Worcestershire sauce, a few grains of quinine, + Sparklets water and a crystal or so of permanganate to turn the mixture a + beautiful pink. This assortment the patient drank with gratitude-and the + tears running down his cheeks. + </p> + <p> + “He will carry a load to-morrow,” F. told the attentive M'ganga. + </p> + <p> + The next patient had fever. This one got twenty grains of quinine in + water. + </p> + <p> + “This man carries no load to-morrow,” was the direction, “but he must not + drop behind.” + </p> + <p> + Two or three surgical cases followed. Then a big Kavirondo rose to his + feet. + </p> + <p> + “Nini?” demanded F. + </p> + <p> + “Homa-fever,” whined the man. + </p> + <p> + F. clapped his hand on the back of the other's neck. + </p> + <p> + “I think,” he remarked contemplatively in English, “that you're a liar, + and want to get out of carrying your load.” + </p> + <p> + The clinical thermometer showed no evidence of temperature. + </p> + <p> + “I'm pretty near sure you're a liar,” observed F. in the pleasantest + conversational tone and still in English, “but you may be merely a poor + diagnostician. Perhaps your poor insides couldn't get away with that + rotten meat I saw you lugging around. We'll see.” + </p> + <p> + So he mixed a pint of medicine. + </p> + <p> + “There's Epsom salts for the real part of trouble,” observed F., still + talking to himself, “and here's a few things for the fake.” + </p> + <p> + He then proceeded to concoct a mixture whose recoil was the exact measure + of his imagination. The imagination was only limited by the necessity of + keeping the mixture harmless. Every hot, biting, nauseous horror in camp + went into that pint measure. + </p> + <p> + “There,” concluded F., “if you drink that and come back again to-morrow + for treatment, I'll believe you ARE sick.” + </p> + <p> + Without undue pride I would like to record that I was the first to think + of putting in a peculiarly nauseous gun oil, and thereby acquired a + reputation of making tremendous medicine. + </p> + <p> + So implicit is this faith in white man's medicine that at one of the + Government posts we were approached by one of the secondary chiefs of the + district. He was a very nifty savage, dressed for calling, with his hair + done in ropes like a French poodle's, his skin carefully oiled and + reddened, his armlets and necklets polished, and with the ceremonial ball + of black feathers on the end of his long spear. His gait was the peculiar + mincing teeter of savage conventional society. According to custom, he + approached unsmiling, spat carefully in his palm, and shook hands. Then he + squatted and waited. + </p> + <p> + “What is it?” we asked after it became evident he really wanted something + besides the pleasure of our company. + </p> + <p> + “N'dowa-medicine,” said he. + </p> + <p> + “Why do you not go the Government dispensary?” we demanded. + </p> + <p> + “The doctor there is an Indian; I want REAL medicine, white man's + medicine,” he explained. + </p> + <p> + Immensely flattered, of course, we wanted further to know what ailed him. + </p> + <p> + “Nothing,” said he blandly, “nothing at all; but it seemed an excellent + chance to get good medicine.” + </p> + <p> + After the clinic was all attended to, we retired to our tents and the + screeching-hot bath so grateful in the tropics. When we emerged, in our + mosquito boots and pajamas, the daylight was gone. Scores of little blazes + licked and leaped in the velvet blackness round about, casting the + undergrowth and the lower branches of the trees into flat planes like the + cardboard of a stage setting. Cheerful, squatted figures sat in silhouette + or in the relief of chance high light. Long switches of meat roasted + before the fires. A hum of talk, bursts of laughter, the crooning of minor + chants mingled with the crackling of thorns. Before our tents stood the + table set for supper. Beyond it lay the pile of firewood, later to be + burned on the altar of our safety against beasts. The moonlight was + casting milky shadows over the river and under the trees opposite. In + those shadows gleamed many fireflies. Overhead were millions of stars, and + a little breeze that wandered through upper branches. + </p> + <p> + But in Equatorial Africa the simple bands of velvet black, against the + spangled brightnesses that make up the visual night world, must give way + in interest to the other world of sound. The air hums with an undertone of + insects; the plain and hill and jungle are populous with voices furtive or + bold. In daytime one sees animals enough, in all conscience, but only at + night does he sense the almost oppressive feeling of the teeming life + about him. The darkness is peopled. Zebra bark, bucks blow or snort or + make the weird noises of their respective species; hyenas howl; out of an + immense simian silence a group of monkeys suddenly break into chatterings; + ostriches utter their deep hollow boom; small things scurry and squeak; a + certain weird bird of the curlew or plover sort wails like a lonesome + soul. Especially by the river, as here, are the boomings of the weirdest + of weird bullfrogs, and the splashings and swishings of crocodile and + hippopotamus. One is impressed with the busyness of the world surrounding + him; every bird or beast, the hunter and the hunted, is the centre of many + important affairs. The world swarms. + </p> + <p> + And then, some miles away a lion roars, the earth and air vibrating to the + sheer power of the sound. The world falls to a blank dead silence. For a + full minute every living creature of the jungle or of the veldt holds its + breath. Their lord has spoken. + </p> + <p> + After dinner we sat in our canvas chairs, smoking. The guard fire in front + of our tent had been lit. On the other side of it stood one of our askaris + leaning on his musket. He and his three companions, turn about, keep the + flames bright against the fiercer creatures. + </p> + <p> + After a time we grew sleepy. I called Saa-sita and entrusted to him my + watch. On the crystal of this I had pasted a small piece of surgeon's + plaster. When the hour hand reached the surgeon's plaster, he must wake us + up. Saa-sita was a very conscientious and careful man. One day I took some + time hitching my pedometer properly to his belt: I could not wear it + effectively myself because I was on horseback. At the end of the ten-hour + march it registered a mile and a fraction. Saa-sita explained that he + wished to take especial care of it, so he had wrapped it in a cloth and + carried it all day in his hand! + </p> + <p> + We turned in. As I reached over to extinguish the lantern I issued my last + command for the day. + </p> + <p> + “Watcha kalele, Saa-sita,” I told the askari; at once he lifted up his + voice to repeat my words. “Watcha kalele!” Immediately from the + Responsible all over camp the word came back-from gunbearers, from + M'ganga, from tent boys-“kalele! kalele! kalele!” + </p> + <p> + Thus commanded, the boisterous fun, the croon of intimate talk, the gently + rising and falling tide of melody fell to complete silence. Only remained + the crackling of the fire and the innumerable voices of the tropical + night. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + VIII. THE RIVER JUNGLE + </h2> + <p> + We camped along this river for several weeks, poking indefinitely and + happily around the country in all directions to see what we could see. + Generally we went together, for neither B. nor myself had been tried out + as yet on dangerous game-those easy rhinos hardly counted-and I think we + both preferred to feel that we had backing until we knew what our nerves + were going to do with us. Nevertheless, occasionally, I would take Memba + Sasa and go out for a little purposeless stroll a few miles up or down + river. Sometimes we skirted the jungle, sometimes we held as near as + possible to the river's bank, sometimes we cut loose and rambled through + the dry, crackling scrub over the low volcanic hills of the arid country + outside. + </p> + <p> + Nothing can equal the intense interest of the most ordinary walk in + Africa. It is the only country I know of where a man is thoroughly and + continuously alive. Often when riding horseback with the dogs in my + California home I have watched them in envy of the keen, alert interest + they took in every stone, stick, and bush, in every sight, sound, and + smell. With equal frequency I have expressed that envy, but as something + unattainable to a human being's more phlegmatic make-up. In Africa one + actually rises to continuous alertness. There are dozy moments-except you + curl up in a safe place for the PURPOSE of dozing; again just like the + dog! Every bush, every hollow, every high tuft of grass, every deep shadow + must be scrutinized for danger. It will not do to pass carelessly any + possible lurking place. At the same time the sense of hearing must be on + guard; so that no break of twig or crash of bough can go unremarked. + Rhinoceroses conceal themselves most cannily, and have a deceitful habit + of leaping from a nap into their swiftest stride. Cobras and puff adders + are scarce, to be sure, but very deadly. Lions will generally give way, if + not shot at or too closely pressed; nevertheless there is always the + chance of cubs or too close a surprise. Buffalo lurk daytimes in the deep + thickets, but occasionally a rogue bull lives where your trail will lead. + These things do not happen often, but in the long run they surely do + happen, and once is quite enough provided the beast gets in. + </p> + <p> + At first this continual alertness and tension is rather exhausting; but + after a very short time it becomes second nature. A sudden rustle the + other side a bush no longer brings you up all standing with your heart in + your throat; but you are aware of it, and you are facing the possible + danger almost before your slower brain has issued any orders to that + effect. + </p> + <p> + In rereading the above, I am afraid that I am conveying the idea that one + here walks under the shadow of continual uneasiness. This is not in the + least so. One enjoys the sun, and the birds and the little things. He + cultivates the great leisure of mind that shall fill the breadth of his + outlook abroad over a newly wonderful world. But underneath it all is the + alertness, the responsiveness to quick reflexes of judgment and action, + the intimate correlations to immediate environment which must characterize + the instincts of the higher animals. And it is good to live these things. + </p> + <p> + Along the edge of that river jungle were many strange and beautiful + affairs. I could slip along among the high clumps of the thicker bushes in + such a manner as to be continually coming around unexpected bends. Of such + maneouvres are surprises made. The graceful red impalla were here very + abundant. I would come on them, their heads up, their great ears flung + forward, their noses twitching in inquiry of something they suspected but + could not fully sense. When slightly alarmed or suspicious the does always + stood compactly in a herd, while the bucks remained discreetly in the + background, their beautiful, branching, widespread horns showing over the + backs of their harems. The impalla is, in my opinion, one of the most + beautiful and graceful of the African bucks, a perpetual delight to watch + either standing or running. These beasts are extraordinarily agile, and + have a habit of breaking their ordinary fast run by unexpectedly leaping + high in the air. At a distance they give somewhat the effect of dolphins + at sea, only their leaps are higher and more nearly perpendicular. Once or + twice I have even seen one jump over the back of another. On another + occasion we saw a herd of twenty-five or thirty cross a road of which, + evidently, they were a little suspicious. We could not find a single hoof + mark in the dust! Generally these beasts frequent thin brush country; but + I have three or four times seen them quite out in the open flat plains, + feeding with the hartebeeste and zebra. They are about the size of our + ordinary deer, are delicately fashioned, and can utter the most + incongruously grotesque of noises by way of calls or ordinary + conversation. + </p> + <p> + The lack of curiosity, or the lack of gallantry, of the impalla bucks was, + in my experience, quite characteristic. They were almost always the + farthest in the background and the first away when danger threatened. The + ladies could look out for themselves. They had no horns to save; and what + do the fool women mean by showing so little sense, anyway! They deserve + what they get! It used to amuse me a lot to observe the utter abandonment + of all responsibility by these handsome gentlemen. When it came time to + depart, they departed. Hang the girls! They trailed along after as fast as + they could. + </p> + <p> + The waterbuck-a fine large beast about the size of our caribou, a + well-conditioned buck resembling in form and attitude the finest of + Landseer's stags-on the other hand, had a little more sense of + responsibility, when he had anything to do with the sex at all. He was + hardly what you might call a strictly domestic character. I have hunted + through a country for several days at a time without seeing a single + mature buck of this species, although there were plenty of does, in herds + of ten to fifty, with a few infants among them just sprouting horns. Then + finally, in some small grassy valley, I would come on the Men's Club. + There they were, ten, twenty, three dozen of them, having the finest kind + of an untramelled masculine time all by themselves. Generally, however, I + will say for them, they took care of their own peoples. There would quite + likely be one big old fellow, his harem of varying numbers, and the + younger subordinate bucks all together in a happy family. When some one of + the lot announced that something was about, and they had all lined up to + stare in the suspected direction, the big buck was there in the foreground + of inquiry. When finally they made me out, it was generally the big buck + who gave the signal. He went first, to be sure, but his going first was + evidently an act of leadership, and not merely a disgraceful desire to get + away before the rest did. + </p> + <p> + But the waterbuck had to yield in turn to the plains gazelles; especially + to the Thompson's gazelle, familiarly-and affectionately-known as the + “Tommy.” He is a quaint little chap, standing only a foot and a half tall + at the shoulder, fawn colour on top, white beneath, with a black, + horizontal stripe on his side, like a chipmunk, most lightly and + gracefully built. When he was first made, somebody told him that unless he + did something characteristic, like waggling his little tail, he was likely + to be mistaken by the undiscriminating for his bigger cousin, the Grant's + gazelle. He has waggled his tail ever since, and so is almost never + mistaken for a Grant's gazelle, even by the undiscriminating. Evidently + his religion is Mohammedan, for he always has a great many wives. He takes + good care of them, however. When danger appears, even when danger + threatens, he is the last to leave the field. Here and there he dashes + frantically, seeing that the women and children get off. And when the herd + tops the hill, Tommy's little horns bring up the rear of the procession. I + like Tommy. He is a cheerful, gallant, quaint little person, with the air + of being quite satisfied with his own solution of this complicated world. + </p> + <p> + Among the low brush at the edge of the river jungle dwelt also the + dik-dik, the tiniest miniature of a deer you could possibly imagine. His + legs are lead pencil size, he stands only about nine inches tall, he + weighs from five to ten pounds; and yet he is a perfect little antelope, + horns and all. I used to see him singly or in pairs standing quite + motionless and all but invisible in the shade of bushes; or leaping + suddenly to his feet and scurrying away like mad through the dry grass. + His personal opinion of me was generally expressed in a loud clear + whistle. But then nobody in this strange country talks the language you + would naturally expect him to talk! Zebra bark, hyenas laugh, impallas + grunt, ostriches boom like drums, leopards utter a plaintive sigh, + hornbills cry like a stage child, bushbucks sound like a cross between a + dog and a squawky toy-and so on. There is only one safe rule of the novice + in Africa: NEVER BELIEVE A WORD THE JUNGLE AND VELDT PEOPLE TELL YOU. + </p> + <p> + These two-the impalla and the waterbuck-were the principal buck we would + see close to the river. Occasionally, however, we came on a few oryx, down + for a drink, beautiful big antelope, with white and black faces, roached + manes, and straight, nearly parallel, rapier horns upward of three feet + long. A herd of these creatures, the light gleaming on their weapons, held + all at the same slant, was like a regiment of bayonets in the sun. And + there were also the rhinoceroses to be carefully espied and avoided. They + lay obliterated beneath the shade of bushes, and arose with a mighty + blow-off of steam. Whereupon we withdrew silently, for we wanted to shoot + no more rhinos, unless we had to. + </p> + <p> + Beneath all these obvious and startling things, a thousand other + interesting matters were afoot. In the mass and texture of the jungle grew + many strange trees and shrubs. One most scrubby, fat and leafless tree, + looking as though it were just about to give up a discouraged existence, + surprised us by putting forth, apparently directly from its bloated wood, + the most wonderful red blossoms. Another otherwise self-respecting tree + hung itself all over with plump bologna sausages about two feet long and + five inches thick. A curious vine hung like a rope, with Turk's-head knots + about a foot apart on its whole length, like the hand-over-hand ropes of + gymnasiums. Other ropes were studded all over with thick blunt bosses, + resembling much the outbreak on one sort of Arts-and-Crafts door: the sort + intended to repel Mail-clad Hosts. + </p> + <p> + The monkeys undoubtedly used such obvious highways through the trees. + These little people were very common. As we walked along, they withdrew + before us. We could make out their figures galloping hastily across the + open places, mounting bushes and stubs to take a satisfying backward look, + clambering to treetops, and launching themselves across the abysses + between limbs. If we went slowly, they retired in silence. If we hurried + at all, they protested in direct ratio to the speed of our advance. And + when later the whole safari, loads on heads, marched inconsiderately + through their jungle! We happened to be hunting on a parallel course a + half mile away, and we could trace accurately the progress of our men by + the outraged shrieks, chatterings, appeals to high heaven for at least + elemental justice to the monkey people. + </p> + <p> + Often, too, we would come on concourses of the big baboons. They certainly + carried on weighty affairs of their own according to a fixed polity. I + never got well enough acquainted with them to master the details of their + government, but it was indubitably built on patriarchal lines. When we + succeeded in approaching without being discovered, we would frequently + find the old men baboons squatting on their heels in a perfect circle, + evidently discussing matters of weight and portent. Seen from a distance, + their group so much resembled the council circles of native warriors that + sometimes, in a native country, we made that mistake. Outside this solemn + council, the women, young men and children went about their daily + business, whatever that was. Up convenient low trees or bushes roosted + sentinels. + </p> + <p> + We never remained long undiscovered. One of the sentinels barked sharply. + At once the whole lot loped away, speedily but with a curious effect of + deliberation. The men folks held their tails in a proud high sideways + arch; the curious youngsters clambered up bushes to take a hasty look; the + babies clung desperately with all four feet to the thick fur on their + mothers' backs; the mothers galloped along imperturbably unheeding of + infantile troubles aloft. The side hill was bewildering with the big + bobbing black forms. + </p> + <p> + In this lower country the weather was hot, and the sun very strong. The + heated air was full of the sounds of insects; some of them comfortable, + like the buzzing of bees, some of them strange and unusual to us. One + cicada had a sustained note, in quality about like that of our own + August-day's friend, but in quantity and duration as the roar of a train + to the gentle hum of a good motor car. Like all cicada noises it did not + usurp the sound world, but constituted itself an underlying basis, so to + speak. And when it stopped the silence seemed to rush in as into a vacuum! + </p> + <p> + We had likewise the aeroplane beetle. He was so big that he would have + made good wing-shooting. His manner of flight was the straight-ahead, + heap-of-buzz, plenty-busy, don't-stop-a-minute-or-you'll-come-down method + of the aeroplane; and he made the same sort of a hum. His first-cousin, + mechanically, was what we called the wind-up-the-watch insect. This + specimen possessed a watch-an old-fashioned Waterbury, evidently-that he + was continually winding. It must have been hard work for the poor chap, + for it sounded like a very big watch. + </p> + <p> + All these things were amusing. So were the birds. The African bird is + quite inclined to be didactic. He believes you need advice, and he means + to give it. To this end he repeats the same thing over and over until he + thinks you surely cannot misunderstand. One chap especially whom we called + the lawyer bird, and who lived in the treetops, had four phrases to + impart. He said them very deliberately, with due pause between each; then + he repeated them rapidly; finally he said them all over again with an + exasperated bearing-down emphasis. The joke of it is I cannot now remember + just how they went! Another feathered pedagogue was continually warning us + to go slow; very good advice near an African jungle. “Poley-poley! + Poley-poley!” he warned again and again; which is good Swahili for + “slowly! slowly!” We always minded him. There were many others, equally + impressed with their own wisdom, but the one I remember with most + amusement was a dilatory person who apparently never got around to his job + until near sunset. Evidently he had contracted to deliver just so many + warnings per diem; and invariably he got so busy chasing insects, enjoying + the sun, gossiping with a friend and generally footling about that the + late afternoon caught him unawares with never a chirp accomplished. So he + sat in a bush and said his say over and over just as fast as he could + without pause for breath or recreation. It was really quite a feat. Just + at dusk, after two hours of gabbling, he would reach the end of his + contracted number. With final relieved chirp he ended. + </p> + <p> + It has been said that African birds are “songless.” This is a careless + statement that can easily be read to mean that African birds are silent. + The writer evidently must have had in mind as a criterion some of our own + or the English great feathered soloists. Certainly the African jungle + seems to produce no individual performers as sustained as our own + bob-o-link, our hermit thrush, or even our common robin. But the African + birds are vocal enough, for all that. Some of them have a richness and + depth of timbre perhaps unequalled elsewhere. Of such is the chime-bird + with his deep double note; or the bell-bird tolling like a cathedral in + the blackness of the forest; or the bottle bird that apparently pours + gurgling liquid gold from a silver jug. As the jungle is exceedingly + populous of these feathered specialists, it follows that the early morning + chorus is wonderful. Africa may not possess the soloists, but its full + orchestrial effects are superb. + </p> + <p> + Naturally under the equator one expects and demands the “gorgeous tropical + plumage” of the books. He is not disappointed. The sun-birds of fifty odd + species, the brilliant blue starlings, the various parrots, the variegated + hornbills, the widower-birds, and dozens of others whose names would mean + nothing flash here and there in the shadow and in the open. With them are + hundreds of quiet little bodies just as interesting to one who likes + birds. From the trees and bushes hang pear-shaped nests plaited + beautifully of long grasses, hard and smooth as hand-made baskets, the + work of the various sorts of weaver-birds. In the tops of the trees + roosted tall marabout storks like dissipated, hairless old club-men in + well-groomed, correct evening dress. + </p> + <p> + And around camp gathered the swift brown kites. They were robbers and + villains, but we could not hate them. All day long they sailed back and + forth spying sharply. When they thought they saw their chance, they + stooped with incredible swiftness to seize a piece of meat. Sometimes they + would snatch their prize almost from the hands of its rightful owner, and + would swoop triumphantly upward again pursued by polyglot maledictions and + a throwing stick. They were very skilful on their wings. I have many times + seen them, while flying, tear up and devour large chunks of meat. It seems + to my inexperience as an aviator rather a nice feat to keep your balance + while tearing with your beak at meat held in your talons. Regardless of + other landmarks, we always knew when we were nearing camp, after one of + our strolls, by the gracefully wheeling figures of our kites. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0009" id="link2H_4_0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + IX. THE FIRST LION + </h2> + <p> + One day we all set out to make our discoveries: F., B., and I with our + gunbearers, Memba Sasa, Mavrouki, and Simba, and ten porters to bring in + the trophies, which we wanted very much, and the meat, which the men + wanted still more. We rode our horses, and the syces followed. This made + quite a field force-nineteen men all told. Nineteen white men would be + exceedingly unlikely to get within a liberal half mile of anything; but + the native has sneaky ways. + </p> + <p> + At first we followed between the river and the low hills, but when the + latter drew back to leave open a broad flat, we followed their line. At + this point they rose to a clifflike headland a hundred and fifty feet + high, flat on top. We decided to investigate that mesa, both for the + possibilities of game, and for the chance of a view abroad. + </p> + <p> + The footing was exceedingly noisy and treacherous, for it was composed of + flat, tinkling little stones. Dried-up, skimpy bushes just higher than our + heads made a thin but regular cover. There seemed not to be a spear of + anything edible, yet we caught the flash of red as a herd of impalla + melted away at our rather noisy approach. Near the foot of the hill we + dismounted, with orders to all the men but the gunbearers to sit down and + make themselves comfortable. Should we need them we could easily either + signal or send word. Then we set ourselves toilsomely to clamber up that + volcanic hill. + </p> + <p> + It was not particularly easy going, especially as we were trying to walk + quietly. You see, we were about to surmount a skyline. Surmounting a + skyline is always most exciting anywhere, for what lies beyond is at once + revealed as a whole and contains the very essence of the unknown; but most + decidedly is this true in Africa. That mesa looked flat, and almost + anything might be grazing or browsing there. So we proceeded gingerly, + with due regard to the rolling of the loose rocks or the tinkling of the + little pebbles. + </p> + <p> + But long before we had reached that alluring skyline we were halted by the + gentle snapping of Mavrouki's fingers. That, strangely enough, is a sound + to which wild animals seem to pay no attention, and is therefore most + useful as a signal. We looked back. The three gunbearers were staring to + the right of our course. About a hundred yards away, on the steep side + hill, and partly concealed by the brush, stood two rhinoceroses. + </p> + <p> + They were side by side, apparently dozing. We squatted on our heels for a + consultation. + </p> + <p> + The obvious thing, as the wind was from them, was to sneak quietly by, + saying nuffin' to nobody. But although we wanted no more rhino, we very + much wanted rhino pictures. A discussion developed no really good reason + why we should not kodak these especial rhinos-except that there were two + of them. So we began to worm our way quietly through the bushes in their + direction. + </p> + <p> + F. and B. deployed on the flanks, their double-barrelled rifles ready for + instant action. I occupied the middle with that dangerous weapon the 3A + kodak. Memba Sasa followed at my elbow, holding my big gun. + </p> + <p> + Now the trouble with modern photography is that it is altogether too + lavish in its depiction of distances. If you do not believe it, take a + picture of a horse at as short a range as twenty-five yards. That equine + will, in the development, have receded to a respectable middle distance. + Therefore it had been agreed that the advance of the battle line was to + cease only when those rhinoceroses loomed up reasonably large in the + finder. I kept looking into the finder, you may be sure. Nearer and nearer + we crept. The great beasts were evidently basking in the sun. Their little + pig eyes alone gave any sign of life. Otherwise they exhibited the + complete immobility of something done in granite. Probably no other beast + impresses one with quite this quality. I suppose it is because even the + little motions peculiar to other animals are with the rhinoceros entirely + lacking. He is not in the least of a nervous disposition, so he does not + stamp his feet nor change his position. It is useless for him to wag his + tail; for, in the first place, the tail is absurdly inadequate; and, in + the second place, flies are not among his troubles. Flies wouldn't bother + you either, if you had a skin two inches thick. So there they stood, inert + and solid as two huge brown rocks, save for the deep, wicked twinkle of + their little eyes. + </p> + <p> + Yes, we were close enough to “see the whites of their eyes,” if they had + had any: and also to be within the range of their limited vision. Of + course we were now stalking, and taking advantage of all the cover. + </p> + <p> + Those rhinoceroses looked to me like two Dreadnaughts. The African + two-horned rhinoceros is a bigger animal anyway than our circus friend, + who generally comes from India. One of these brutes I measured went five + feet nine inches at the shoulder, and was thirteen feet six inches from + bow to stern. Compare these dimensions with your own height and with the + length of your motor car. It is one thing to take on such beasts in the + hurry of surprise, the excitement of a charge, or to stalk up to within a + respectable range of them with a gun at ready. But this deliberate + sneaking up with the hope of being able to sneak away again was a little + too slow and cold-blooded. It made me nervous. I liked it, but I knew at + the time I was going to like it a whole lot better when it was + triumphantly over. + </p> + <p> + We were now within twenty yards (they were standing starboard side on), + and I prepared to get my picture. To do so I would either have to step + quietly out into sight, trusting to the shadow and the slowness of my + movements to escape observation, or hold the camera above the bush, + directing it by guess work. It was a little difficult to decide. I knew + what I OUGHT to do— + </p> + <p> + Without the slightest premonitory warning those two brutes snorted and + whirled in their tracks to stand facing in our direction. After the dead + stillness they made a tremendous row, what with the jerky suddenness of + their movements, their loud snorts, and the avalanche of echoing stones + and boulders they started down the hill. + </p> + <p> + This was the magnificent opportunity. At this point I should boldly have + stepped out from behind my bush, levelled my trusty 3A, and coolly snapped + the beasts, “charging at fifteen yards.” Then, if B.'s and F.'s shots went + absolutely true, or if the brutes didn't happen to smash the camera as + well as me, I, or my executors as the case might be, would have had a fine + picture. + </p> + <p> + But I didn't. I dropped that expensive 3A Special on some hard rocks, and + grabbed my rifle from Memba Sasa. If you want really to know why, go + confront your motor car at fifteen or twenty paces, multiply him by two, + and endow him with an eagerly malicious disposition. + </p> + <p> + They advanced several yards, halted, faced us for perhaps five or six + seconds, uttered snort, whirled with the agility of polo ponies, departed + at a swinging trot and with surprising agility along the steep side hill. + </p> + <p> + I recovered the camera, undamaged, and we continued our climb. + </p> + <p> + The top of the mesa was disappointing as far as game was concerned. It was + covered all over with red stones, round, and as large as a man's head. + Thornbushes found some sort of sustenance in the interstices. + </p> + <p> + But we had gained to a magnificent view. Below us lay the narrow flat, + then the winding jungle of our river, then long rolling desert country, + gray with thorn scrub, sweeping upward to the base of castellated buttes + and one tremendous riven cliff mountain, dropping over the horizon to a + very distant blue range. Behind us eight or ten miles away was the low + ridge through which our journey had come. The mesa on which we stood broke + back at right angles to admit another stream flowing into our own. Beyond + this stream were rolling hills, and scrub country, the hint of blue peaks + and illimitable distances falling away to the unknown Tara Desert and the + sea. + </p> + <p> + There seemed to be nothing much to be gained here, so we made up our minds + to cut across the mesa, and from the other edge of it to overlook the + valley of the tributary river. This we would descend until we came to our + horses. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly we stumbled across a mile or so of those round and rolling + stones. Then we found ourselves overlooking a wide flat or pocket where + the stream valley widened. It extended even as far as the upward fling of + the barrier ranges. Thick scrub covered it, but erratically, so that here + and there were little openings or thin places. We sat down, manned our + trusty prism glasses, and gave ourselves to the pleasing occupation of + looking the country over inch by inch. + </p> + <p> + This is great fun. It is a game a good deal like puzzle pictures. + Re-examination generally develops new and unexpected beasts. We repeated + to each other aloud the results of our scrutiny, always without removing + the glasses from our eyes. + </p> + <p> + “Oryx, one,” said F.; “oryx, two.” + </p> + <p> + “Giraffe,” reported B., “and a herd of impalla.” + </p> + <p> + I saw another giraffe, and another oryx, then two rhinoceroses. + </p> + <p> + The three bearers squatted on their heels behind us, their fierce eyes + staring straight ahead, seeing with the naked eye what we were finding + with six-power glasses. + </p> + <p> + We turned to descend the hill. In the very centre of the deep shade of a + clump of trees, I saw the gleam of a waterbuck's horns. While I was + telling of this, the beast stepped from his concealment, trotted a short + distance upstream and turned to climb a little ridge parallel to that by + which we were descending. About halfway up he stopped, staring in our + direction, his head erect, the slight ruff under his neck standing + forward. He was a good four hundred yards away. B., who wanted him, + decided the shot too chancy. He and F. slipped backward until they had + gained the cover of the little ridge, then hastened down the bed of the + ravine. Their purpose was to follow the course already taken by the + waterbuck until they should have sneaked within better range. In the + meantime I and the gunbearers sat down in full view of the buck. This was + to keep his attention distracted. + </p> + <p> + We sat there a long time. The buck never moved but continued to stare at + what evidently puzzled him. Time passes very slowly in such circumstances, + and it seemed incredible that the beast should continue much longer to + hold his fixed attitude. Nevertheless B. and F. were working hard. We + caught glimpses of them occasionally slipping from bush to bush. Finally + B. knelt and levelled his rifle. At once I turned my glasses on the buck. + Before the sound of the rifle had reached me, I saw him start + convulsively, then make off at the tearing run that indicates a heart hit. + A moment later the crack of the rifle and the dull plunk of the hitting + bullet struck my ear. + </p> + <p> + We tracked him fifty yards to where he lay dead. He was a fine trophy, and + we at once set the boys to preparing it and taking the meat. In the + meantime we sauntered down to look at the stream. It was a small rapid + affair, but in heavy papyrus, with sparse trees, and occasional thickets, + and dry hard banks. The papyrus should make a good lurking place for + almost anything; but the few points of access to the water failed to show + many interesting tracks. Nevertheless we decided to explore a short + distance. + </p> + <p> + For an hour we walked among high thornbushes, over baking hot earth. We + saw two or three dik-dik and one of the giraffes. At that time it had + become very hot, and the sun was bearing down on us as with the weight of + a heavy hand. The air had the scorching, blasting quality of an opened + furnace door. Our mouths were getting dry and sticky in that peculiar + stage of thirst on which no luke-warm canteen water in necessarily limited + quantity has any effect. So we turned back, picked up the men with the + waterbuck, and plodded on down the little stream, or, rather, on the + red-hot dry valley bottom outside the stream's course, to where the syces + were waiting with our horses. We mounted with great thankfulness. It was + now eleven o'clock, and we considered our day as finished. + </p> + <p> + The best way for a distance seemed to follow the course of the tributary + stream to its point of junction with our river. We rode along, rather + relaxed in the suffocating heat. F. was nearest the stream. At one point + it freed itself of trees and brush and ran clear, save for low papyrus, + ten feet down below a steep eroded bank. F. looked over and uttered a + startled exclamation. I spurred my horse forward to see. + </p> + <p> + Below us, about fifteen yards away, was the carcass of a waterbuck half + hidden in the foot-high grass. A lion and two lionesses stood upon it, + staring up at us with great yellow eyes. That picture is a very vivid one + in my memory, for those were the first wild lions I had ever seen. My most + lively impression was of their unexpected size. They seemed to bulk fully + a third larger than my expectation. + </p> + <p> + The magnificent beasts stood only long enough to see clearly what had + disturbed them, then turned, and in two bounds had gained the shelter of + the thicket. + </p> + <p> + Now the habit in Africa is to let your gunbearers carry all your guns. You + yourself stride along hand free. It is an English idea, and is pretty + generally adopted out there by every one, of whatever nationality. They + will explain it to you by saying that in such a climate a man should do + only necessary physical work, and that a good gunbearer will get a weapon + into your hand so quickly and in so convenient a position that you will + lose no time. I acknowledge the gunbearers are sometimes very skilful at + this, but I do deny that there is no loss of time. The instant of + distracted attention while receiving a weapon, the necessity of + recollecting the nervous correlations after the transfer, very often mark + just the difference between a sure instinctive snapshot and a lost + opportunity. It reasons that the man with the rifle in his hand reacts + instinctively, in one motion, to get his weapon into play. If the + gunbearer has the gun, HE must first react to pass it up, the master must + receive it properly, and THEN, and not until then, may go on from where + the other man began. As for physical labour in the tropics: if a grown man + cannot without discomfort or evil effects carry an eight-pound rifle, he + is too feeble to go out at all. In a long Western experience I have + learned never to be separated from my weapon; and I believe the + continuance of this habit in Africa saved me a good number of chances. + </p> + <p> + At any rate, we all flung ourselves off our horses. I, having my rifle in + my hand, managed to throw a shot after the biggest lion as he vanished. It + was a snap at nothing, and missed. Then in an opening on the edge a + hundred yards away appeared one of the lionesses. She was trotting slowly, + and on her I had time to draw a hasty aim. At the shot she bounded high in + the air, fell, rolled over, and was up and into the thicket before I had + much more than time to pump up another shell from the magazine. Memba Sasa + in his eagerness got in the way-the first and last time he ever made a + mistake in the field. + </p> + <p> + By this time the others had got hold of their weapons. We fronted the + blank face of the thicket. + </p> + <p> + The wounded animal would stand a little waiting. We made a wide circle to + the other side of the stream. There we quickly picked up the trail of the + two uninjured beasts. They had headed directly over the hill, where we + speedily lost all trace of them on the flint-like surface of the ground. + We saw a big pack of baboons in the only likely direction for a lion to + go. Being thus thrown back on a choice of a hundred other unlikely + directions, we gave up that slim chance and returned to the thicket. + </p> + <p> + This proved to be a very dense piece of cover. Above the height of the + waist the interlocking branches would absolutely prevent any progress, but + by stooping low we could see dimly among the simpler main stems to a + distance of perhaps fifteen or twenty feet. This combination at once + afforded the wounded lioness plenty of cover in which to hide, plenty of + room in which to charge home, and placed us under the disadvantage of a + crouched or crawling attitude with limited vision. We talked the matter + over very thoroughly. There was only one way to get that lioness out; and + that was to go after her. The job of going after her needed some planning. + The lion is cunning and exceeding fierce. A flank attack, once we were in + the thicket, was as much to be expected as a frontal charge. + </p> + <p> + We advanced to the thicket's edge with many precautions. To our relief we + found she had left us a definite trail. B. and I kneeling took up + positions on either side, our rifles ready. F. and Simba crawled by inches + eight or ten feet inside the thicket. Then, having executed this manoeuvre + safely, B. moved up to protect our rear while I, with Memba Sasa, slid + down to join F. + </p> + <p> + From this point we moved forward alternately. I would crouch, all alert, + my rifle ready, while F. slipped by me and a few feet ahead. Then he get + organized for battle while I passed him. Memba Sasa and Simba, game as + badgers, their fine eyes gleaming with excitement, their faces shining, + crept along at the rear. B. knelt outside the thicket, straining his eyes + for the slightest movement either side of the line of our advance. Often + these wily animals will sneak back in a half circle to attack their + pursuers from behind. Two or three of the bolder porters crouched + alongside B., peering eagerly. The rest had quite properly retired to the + safe distance where the horses stood. + </p> + <p> + We progressed very, very slowly. Every splash of light or mottled shadow, + every clump of bush stems, every fallen log had to be examined, and then + examined again. And how we did strain our eyes in a vain attempt to + penetrate the half lights, the duskinesses of the closed-in thicket not + over fifteen feet away! And then the movement forward of two feet would + bring into our field of vision an entirely new set of tiny vistas and + possible lurking places. + </p> + <p> + Speaking for myself, I was keyed up to a tremendous tension. I stared + until my eyes ached; every muscle and nerve was taut. Everything depended + on seeing the beast promptly, and firing quickly. With the manifest + advantage of being able to see us, she would spring to battle fully + prepared. A yellow flash and a quick shot seemed about to size up that + situation. Every few moments, I remember, I surreptitiously held out my + hand to see if the constantly growing excitement and the long-continued + strain had affected its steadiness. + </p> + <p> + The combination of heat and nervous strain was very exhausting. The sweat + poured from me; and as F. passed me I saw the great drops standing out on + his face. My tongue got dry, my breath came laboriously. Finally I began + to wonder whether physically I should be able to hold out. We had been + crawling, it seemed, for hours. I dared not look back, but we must have + come a good quarter mile. Finally F. stopped. + </p> + <p> + “I'm all in for water,” he gasped in a whisper. + </p> + <p> + Somehow that confession made me feel a lot better. I had thought that I + was the only one. Cautiously we settled back on our heels. Memba Sasa and + Simba wiped the sweat from their faces. It seemed that they too had found + the work severe. That cheered me up still more. + </p> + <p> + Simba grinned at us, and, worming his way backward with the sinuousity of + a snake, he disappeared in the direction from which we had come. F. cursed + after him in a whisper both for departing and for taking the risk. But in + a moment he had returned carrying two canteens of blessed water. We took a + drink most gratefully. + </p> + <p> + I glanced at my watch. It was just under two hours since I had fired my + shot. I looked back. My supposed quarter mile had shrunk to not over fifty + feet! + </p> + <p> + After resting a few moments longer, we again took up our systematic + advance. We made perhaps another fifty feet. We were ascending a very + gentle slope. F. was for the moment ahead. Right before us the lion + growled; a deep rumbling like the end of a great thunder roll, fathoms and + fathoms deep, with the inner subterranean vibrations of a heavy train of + cars passing a man inside a sealed building. At the same moment over F.'s + shoulder I saw a huge yellow head rise up, the round eyes flashing anger, + the small black-tipped ears laid back, the great fangs snarling. The beast + was not over twelve feet distant. F. immediately fired. His shot, hitting + an intervening twig, went wild. With the utmost coolness he immediately + pulled the other trigger of his double barrel. The cartridge snapped. + </p> + <p> + “If you will kindly stoop down-” said I, in what I now remember to be + rather an exaggeratedly polite tone. As F.'s head disappeared, I placed + the little gold bead of my 405 Winchester where I thought it would do the + most good, and pulled trigger. She rolled over dead. + </p> + <p> + The whole affair had begun and finished with unbelievable swiftness. From + the growl to the fatal shot I don't suppose four seconds elapsed, for our + various actions had followed one another with the speed of the + instinctive. The lioness had growled at our approach, had raised her head + to charge, and had received her deathblow before she had released her + muscles in the spring. There had been no time to get frightened. + </p> + <p> + We sat back for a second. A brown hand reached over my shoulder. + </p> + <p> + “Mizouri-mizouri sana!” cried Memba Sasa joyously. I shook the hand. + </p> + <p> + “Good business!” said F. “Congratulate you on your first lion.” + </p> + <p> + We then remembered B., and shouted to him that all was over. He and the + other men wriggled in to where we were lying. He made this distance in + about fifteen seconds. It had taken us nearly an hour. + </p> + <p> + We had the lioness dragged out into the open. She was not an especially + large beast, as compared to most of the others I killed later, but at that + time she looked to me about as big as they made them. As a matter of fact + she was quite big enough, for she stood three feet two inches at the + shoulder-measure that against the wall-and was seven feet and six inches + in length. My first bullet had hit her leg, and the last had reached her + heart. + </p> + <p> + Every one shook me by the hand. The gunbearers squatted about the carcass, + skilfully removing the skin to an undertone of curious crooning that every + few moments broke out into one or two bars of a chant. As the body was + uncovered, the men crouched about to cut off little pieces of fat. These + they rubbed on their foreheads and over their chests, to make them brave, + they said, and cunning, like the lion. + </p> + <p> + We remounted and took up our interrupted journey to camp. It was a little + after two, and the heat was at its worst. We rode rather sleepily, for the + reaction from the high tension of excitement had set in. Behind us marched + the three gunbearers, all abreast, very military and proud. Then came the + porters in single file, the one carrying the folded lion skin leading the + way; those bearing the waterbuck trophy and meat bringing up the rear. + They kept up an undertone of humming in a minor key; occasionally breaking + into a short musical phrase in full voice. + </p> + <p> + We rode an hour. The camp looked very cool and inviting under its wide + high trees, with the river slipping by around the islands of papyrus. A + number of black heads bobbed about in the shallows. The small fires sent + up little wisps of smoke. Around them our boys sprawled, playing simple + games, mending, talking, roasting meat. Their tiny white tents gleamed + pleasantly among the cool shadows. + </p> + <p> + I had thought of riding nonchalantly up to our own tents, of dismounting + with a careless word of greeting— + </p> + <p> + “Oh, yes,” I would say, “we did have a good enough day. Pretty hot. Roy + got a fine waterbuck. Yes, I got a lion.” (Tableau on part of Billy.) + </p> + <p> + But Memba Sasa used up all the nonchalance there was. As we entered camp + he remarked casually to the nearest man. + </p> + <p> + “Bwana na piga simba-the master has killed a lion.” + </p> + <p> + The man leaped to his feet. + </p> + <p> + “Simba! simba! simba!” he yelled. “Na piga simba!” + </p> + <p> + Every one in camp also leaped to his feet, taking up the cry. From the + water it was echoed as the bathers scrambled ashore. The camp broke into + pandemonium. We were surrounded by a dense struggling mass of men. They + reached up scores of black hands to grasp my own; they seized from me + everything portable and bore it in triumph before me-my water bottle, my + rifle, my camera, my whip, my field glasses, even my hat, everything that + was detachable. Those on the outside danced and lifted up their voices in + song, improvised for the most part, and in honor of the day's work. In a + vast swirling, laughing, shouting, triumphant mob we swept through the + camp to where Billy-by now not very much surprised-was waiting to get the + official news. By the measure of this extravagant joy could we gauge what + the killing of a lion means to these people who have always lived under + the dread of his rule. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0010" id="link2H_4_0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + X. LIONS + </h2> + <p> + A very large lion I killed stood three feet and nine inches at the + withers, and of course carried his head higher than that. The top of the + table at which I sit is only two feet three inches from the floor. Coming + through the door at my back that lion's head would stand over a foot + higher than halfway up. Look at your own writing desk; your own door. + Furthermore, he was nine feet and eleven inches in a straight line from + nose to end of tail, or over eleven feet along the contour of the back. If + he were to rise on his hind feet to strike a man down, he would stand + somewhere between seven and eight feet tall, depending on how nearly he + straightened up. He weighed just under six hundred pounds, or as much as + four well-grown specimens of our own “mountain lion.” I tell you this that + you may realize, as I did not, the size to which a wild lion grows. Either + menagerie specimens are stunted in growth, or their position and + surroundings tend to belittle them, for certainly until a man sees old Leo + in the wilderness he has not understood what a fine old chap he is. + </p> + <p> + This tremendous weight is sheer strength. A lion's carcass when the skin + is removed is a really beautiful sight. The great muscles lie in ropes and + bands; the forearm thicker than a man's leg, the lithe barrel banded with + brawn; the flanks overlaid by the long thick muscles. And this power is + instinct with the nervous force of a highly organized being. The lion is + quick and intelligent and purposeful; so that he brings to his intenser + activities the concentration of vivid passion, whether of anger, of hunger + or of desire. + </p> + <p> + So far the opinions of varied experience will jog along together. At this + point they diverge. + </p> + <p> + Just as the lion is one of the most interesting and fascinating of beasts, + so concerning him one may hear the most diverse opinions. This man will + tell you that any lion is always dangerous. Another will hold the king of + beasts in the most utter contempt as a coward and a skulker. + </p> + <p> + In the first place, generalization about any species of animal is an + exceedingly dangerous thing. I believe that, in the case of the higher + animals at least, the differences in individual temperament are quite + likely to be more numerous than the specific likenesses. Just as + individual men are bright or dull, nervous or phlegmatic, cowardly or + brave, so individual animals vary in like respect. Our own hunters will + recall from their personal experiences how the big bear may have sat down + and bawled harmlessly for mercy, while the little unconsidered fellow did + his best until finished off: how one buck dropped instantly to a wound + that another would carry five miles: how of two equally matched warriors + of the herd one will give way in the fight, while still uninjured, before + his perhaps badly wounded antagonist. The casual observer might-and often + does-say that all bears are cowardly, all bucks are easily killed, or the + reverse, according as the god of chance has treated him to one spectacle + or the other. As well try to generalize on the human race-as is a certain + ecclesiastical habit-that all men are vile or noble, dishonest or upright, + wise or foolish. + </p> + <p> + The higher we go in the scale the truer this individualism holds. We are + forced to reason not from the bulk of observations, but from their + averages. If we find ten bucks who will go a mile wounded to two who + succumb in their tracks from similar hurts, we are justified in saying + tentatively that the species is tenacious of life. But as experience + broadens we may modify that statement; for strange indeed are runs of + luck. + </p> + <p> + For this reason a good deal of the wise conclusion we read in sportsmen's + narratives is worth very little. Few men have experience enough with lions + to rise to averages through the possibilities of luck. ESPECIALLY is this + true of lions. No beast that roams seems to go more by luck than felis + leo. Good hunters may search for years without seeing hide nor hair of one + of the beasts. Selous, one of the greatest, went to East Africa for the + express purpose of getting some of the fine beasts there, hunted six weeks + and saw none. Holmes of the Escarpment has lived in the country six years, + has hunted a great deal and has yet to kill his first. One of the railroad + officials has for years gone up and down the Uganda Railway on his + handcar, his rifle ready in hopes of the lion that never appeared; though + many are there seen by those with better fortune. Bronson hunted + desperately for this great prize, but failed. Rainsford shot no lions his + first trip, and ran into them only three years later. Read Abel Chapman's + description of his continued bad luck at even seeing the beasts. + MacMillan, after five years' unbroken good fortune, has in the last two + years failed to kill a lion, although he has made many trips for the + purpose. F. told me he followed every rumour of a lion for two years + before he got one. Again, one may hear the most marvellous of yarns the + other way about-of the German who shot one from the train on the way up + from Mombasa; of the young English tenderfoot who, the first day out, came + on three asleep, across a river, and potted the lot; and so on. The point + is, that in the case of lions the element of sheer chance seems to begin + earlier and last longer than is the case with any other beast. And, you + must remember, experience must thrust through the luck element to the + solid ground of averages before it can have much value in the way of + generalization. Before he has reached that solid ground, a man's opinions + depend entirely on what kind of lions he chances to meet, in what + circumstances, and on how matters happen to shape in the crowded moments. + </p> + <p> + But though lack of sufficiently extended experience has much to do with + these decided differences of opinion, I believe that misapprehension has + also its part. The sportsman sees lions on the plains. Likewise the lions + see him, and promptly depart to thick cover or rocky butte. He comes on + them in the scrub; they bound hastily out of sight. He may even meet them + face to face, but instead of attacking him, they turn to right and left + and make off in the long grass. When he follows them, they sneak cunningly + away. If, added to this, he has the good luck to kill one or two stone + dead at a single shot each, he begins to think there is not much in lion + shooting after all, and goes home proclaiming the king of beasts a + skulking coward. + </p> + <p> + After all, on what grounds does he base this conclusion? In what way have + circumstances been a test of courage at all? The lion did not stand and + fight, to be sure; but why should he? What was there in it for lions? + Behind any action must a motive exist. Where is the possible motive for + any lion to attack on sight? He does not-except in unusual cases-eat men; + nothing has occurred to make him angry. The obvious thing is to avoid + trouble, unless there is a good reason to seek it. In that one evidences + the lion's good sense, but not his lack of courage. That quality has not + been called upon at all. + </p> + <p> + But if the sportsman had done one of two or three things, I am quite sure + he would have had a taste of our friend's mettle. If he had shot at and + even grazed the beast; if he had happened upon him where an exit was not + obvious; or IF HE HAD EVEN FOLLOWED THE LION UNTIL THE LATTER HAD BECOME + TIRED OF THE ANNOYANCE, he would very soon have discovered that Leo is not + all good nature, and that once on his courage will take him in against any + odds. Furthermore, he may be astonished and dismayed to discover that of a + group of several lions, two or three besides the wounded animal are quite + likely to take up the quarrel and charge too. In other words, in my + opinion, the lion avoids trouble when he can, not from cowardice but from + essential indolence or good nature; but does not need to be cornered* to + fight to the death when in his mind his dignity is sufficiently assailed. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * This is an important distinction in estimating the inherent + courage of man or beast. Even a mouse will fight when + cornered. +</pre> + <p> + For of all dangerous beasts the lion, when once aroused, will alone face + odds to the end. The rhinoceros, the elephant, and even the buffalo can + often be turned aside by a shot. A lion almost always charges home.* + Slower and slower he comes, as the bullets strike; but he comes, until at + last he may be just hitching himself along, his face to the enemy, his + fierce spirit undaunted. When finally he rolls over, he bites the earth in + great mouthfuls; and so passes fighting to the last. The death of a lion + is a fine sight. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * I seem to be generalizing here, but all these conclusions + must be understood to take into consideration the liability + of individual variation. +</pre> + <p> + No, I must confess, to me the lion is an object of great respect; and so, + I gather, he is to all who have had really extensive experience. Those + like Leslie Tarleton, Lord Delamere, W. N. MacMillan, Baron von Bronsart, + the Hills, Sir Alfred Pease, who are great lion men, all concede to the + lion a courage and tenacity unequalled by any other living beast. My own + experience is of course nothing as compared to that of these men. Yet I + saw in my nine months afield seventy-one lions. None of these offered to + attack when unwounded or not annoyed. On the other hand, only one turned + tail once the battle was on, and she proved to be a three quarters grown + lioness, sick and out of condition. + </p> + <p> + It is of course indubitable that where lions have been much shot they + become warier in the matter of keeping out of trouble. They retire to + cover earlier in the morning, and they keep more than a perfunctory + outlook for the casual human being. When hunters first began to go into + the Sotik the lions there would stand imperturbable, staring at the + intruder with curiosity or indifference. Now they have learned that such + performances are not healthy-and they have probably satisfied their + curiosity. But neither in the Sotik, nor even in the plains around Nairobi + itself, does the lion refuse the challenge once it has been put up to him + squarely. Nor does he need to be cornered. He charges in quite blithely + from the open plain, once convinced that you are really an annoyance. + </p> + <p> + As to habits! The only sure thing about a lion is his originality. He has + more exceptions to his rules than the German language. Men who have been + mighty lion hunters for many years, and who have brought to their hunting + close observation, can only tell you what a lion MAY do in certain + circumstances. Following very broad principles, they may even predict what + he is APT to do, but never what he certainly WILL do. That is one thing + that makes lion hunting interesting. + </p> + <p> + In general, then, the lion frequents that part of the country where feed + the great game herds. From them he takes his toll by night, retiring + during the day into the shallow ravines, the brush patches, or the rocky + little buttes. I have, however, seen lions miles from game, slumbering + peacefully atop an ant hill. Indeed, occasionally, a pack of lions likes + to live high in the tall-grass ridges where every hunt will mean for them + a four- or five-mile jaunt out and back again. He needs water, after + feeding, and so rarely gets farther than eight or ten miles from that + necessity. + </p> + <p> + He hunts at night. This is as nearly invariable a rule as can be + formulated in regard to lions. Yet once, and perhaps twice, I saw + lionesses stalking through tall grass as early as three o'clock in the + afternoon. This eagerness may, or may not, have had to do with the + possession of hungry cubs. The lion's customary harmlessness in the + daytime is best evidenced, however, by the comparative indifference of the + game to his presence then. From a hill we watched three of these beasts + wandering leisurely across the plains below. A herd of kongonis feeding + directly in their path, merely moved aside right and left, quite + deliberately, to leave a passage fifty yards or so wide, but otherwise + paid not the slightest attention. I have several times seen this incident, + or a modification of it. And yet, conversely, on a number of occasions we + have received our first intimation of the presence of lions by the wild + stampeding of the game away from a certain spot. + </p> + <p> + However, the most of his hunting is done by dark. Between the hours of + sundown and nine o'clock he and his comrades may be heard uttering the + deep coughing grunt typical of this time of night. These curious, short, + far-sounding calls may be mere evidences of intention, or they may be a + sort of signal by means of which the various hunters keep in touch. After + a little they cease. Then one is quite likely to hear the petulant, + alarmed barking of zebra, or to feel the vibrations of many hoofs. There + is a sense of hurried, flurried uneasiness abroad on the veldt. + </p> + <p> + The lion generally springs on his prey from behind or a little off the + quarter. By the impetus his own weight he hurls his victim forward, + doubling its head under, and very neatly breaking its neck. I have never + seen this done, but the process has been well observed and attested; and + certainly, of the many hundreds of lion kills I have taken the pains to + inspect, the majority had had their necks broken. Sometimes, but + apparently more rarely, the lion kills its prey by a bite in the back of + the neck. I have seen zebra killed in this fashion, but never any of the + buck. It may be possible that the lack of horns makes it more difficult to + break a zebra's neck because of the corresponding lack of leverage when + its head hits the ground sidewise; the instances I have noted may have + been those in which the lion's spring landed too far back to throw the + victim properly; or perhaps they were merely examples of the great + variability in the habits of felis leo. + </p> + <p> + Once the kill is made, the lion disembowels the beast very neatly indeed, + and drags the entrails a few feet out of the way. He then eats what he + wants, and, curiously enough, seems often to be very fond of the skin. In + fact, lacking other evidence, it is occasionally possible to identify a + kill as being that of a lion by noticing whether any considerable portion + of the hide has been devoured. After eating he drinks. Then he is likely + to do one of two things: either he returns to cover near the carcass and + lies down, or he wanders slowly and with satisfaction toward his happy + home. In the latter case the hyenas, jackals, and carrion birds seize + their chance. The astute hunter can often diagnose the case by the general + actions and demeanour of these camp followers. A half dozen sour and + disgusted looking hyenas seated on their haunches at scattered intervals, + and treefuls of mournfully humpbacked vultures sunk in sadness, indicate + that the lion has decided to save the rest of his zebra until to-morrow + and is not far away. On the other hand, a grand flapping, snarling + Kilkenny-fair of an aggregation swirling about one spot in the grass means + that the principal actor has gone home. + </p> + <p> + It is ordinarily useless to expect to see the lion actually on his prey. + The feeding is done before dawn, after which the lion enjoys stretching + out in the open until the sun is well up, and then retiring to the nearest + available cover. Still, at the risk of seeming to be perpetually + qualifying, I must instance finding three lions actually on the stale + carcass of a waterbuck at eleven o'clock in the morning of a piping hot + day! In an undisturbed country, or one not much hunted, the early morning + hours up to say nine o'clock are quite likely to show you lions sauntering + leisurely across the open plains toward their lairs. They go a little, + stop a little, yawn, sit down a while, and gradually work their way home. + At those times you come upon them unexpectedly face to face, or, seeing + them from afar, ride them down in a glorious gallop. Where the country has + been much hunted, however, the lion learns to abandon his kill and seek + shelter before daylight, and is almost never seen abroad. Then one must + depend on happening upon him in his cover. + </p> + <p> + In the actual hunting of his game the lion is apparently very clever. He + understands the value of cooperation. Two or more will manoeuvre very + skilfully to give a third the chance to make an effective spring; + whereupon the three will share the kill. In a rough country, or one + otherwise favourable to the method, a pack of lions will often + deliberately drive game into narrow ravines or cul de sacs where the + killers are waiting. + </p> + <p> + At such times the man favoured by the chance of an encampment within five + miles or so can hear a lion's roar. + </p> + <p> + Otherwise I doubt if he is apt often to get the full-voiced, genuine + article. The peculiar questioning cough of early evening is resonant and + deep in vibration, but it is a call rather than a roar. No lion is fool + enough to make a noise when he is stalking. Then afterward, when full fed, + individuals may open up a few times, but only a few times, in sheer + satisfaction, apparently, at being well fed. The menagerie row at feeding + time, formidable as it sounds within the echoing walls, is only a mild and + gentle hint. But when seven or eight lions roar merely to see how much + noise they can make, as when driving game, or trying to stampede your oxen + on a wagon trip, the effect is something tremendous. The very substance of + the ground vibrates; the air shakes. I can only compare it to the effect + of a very large deep organ in a very small church. There is something + genuinely awe-inspiring about it; and when the repeated volleys rumble + into silence, one can imagine the veldt crouched in a rigid terror that + shall endure. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0011" id="link2H_4_0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XI. LIONS AGAIN + </h2> + <p> + As to the dangers of lion hunting it is also difficult to write. There is + no question that a cool man, using good judgment as to just what he can or + cannot do, should be able to cope with lion situations. The modern rifle + is capable of stopping the beast, provided the bullet goes to the right + spot. The right spot is large enough to be easy to hit, if the shooter + keeps cool. Our definition of a cool man must comprise the elements of + steady nerves under super-excitement, the ability to think quickly and + clearly, and the mildly strategic quality of being able to make the best + use of awkward circumstances. Such a man, barring sheer accidents, should + be able to hunt lions with absolute certainty for just as long as he does + not get careless, slipshod or over-confident. Accidents-real accidents, + not merely unexpected happenings-are hardly to be counted. They can occur + in your own house. + </p> + <p> + But to the man not temperamentally qualified, lion shooting is dangerous + enough. The lion, when he takes the offensive, intends to get his + antagonist. Having made up his mind to that, he charges home, generally at + great speed. The realization that it is the man's life or the beast's is + disconcerting. Also the charging lion is a spectacle much more + awe-inspiring in reality than the most vivid imagination can predict. He + looks very large, very determined, and has uttered certain rumbling, + blood-curdling threats as to what he is going to do about it. It suddenly + seems most undesirable to allow that lion to come any closer, not even an + inch! A hasty, nervous shot misses— + </p> + <p> + An unwounded lion charging from a distance is said to start rather slowly, + and to increase his pace only as he closes. Personally I have never been + charged by an unwounded beast, but I can testify that the wounded animal + comes very fast. Cuninghame puts the rate at about seven seconds to the + hundred yards. Certainly I should say that a man charged from fifty yards + or so would have little chance for a second shot, provided he missed the + first. A hit seemed, in my experience, to the animal, by sheer force of + impact, long enough to permit me to throw in another cartridge. A lioness + thus took four frontal bullets starting at about sixty yards. An initial + miss would probably have permitted her to close. + </p> + <p> + Here, as can be seen, is a great source of danger to a flurried or nervous + beginner. He does not want that lion to get an inch nearer; he fires at + too long a range, misses, and is killed or mauled before he can reload. + This happened precisely so to two young friends of MacMillan. They were + armed with double-rifles, let them off hastily as the beast started at + them from two hundred yards, and never got another chance. If they had + possessed the experience to have waited until the lion had come within + fifty yards they would have had the almost certainty of four barrels at + close range. Though I have seen a lion missed clean well inside those + limits. + </p> + <p> + From such performances are so-called lion accidents built. During my stay + in Africa I heard of six white men being killed by lions, and a number of + others mauled. As far as possible I tried to determine the facts of each + case. In every instance the trouble followed either foolishness or loss of + nerve. I believe I should be quite safe in saying that from identically + the same circumstances any of the good lion men-Tarleton, Lord Delamere, + the Hills, and others-would have extricated themselves unharmed. + </p> + <p> + This does not mean that accidents may not happen. Rifles jam, but + generally because of flurried manipulation! One may unexpectedly meet the + lion at too close quarters; a foot may slip, or a cartridge prove + defective. So may one fall downstairs or bump one's head in the dark. + Sufficient forethought and alertness and readiness would go far in either + case to prevent bad results. + </p> + <p> + The wounded beast, of course, offers the most interesting problem to the + lion hunter. If it sees the hunter, it is likely to charge him at once. If + hit while making off, however, it is more apt to take cover. Then one must + summon all his good sense and nerve to get it out. No rules can be given + for this; nor am I trying to write a text book for lion hunters. Any good + lion hunter knows a lot more about it than I do. But always a man must + keep in mind three things: that a lion can hide in cover so short that it + seems to the novice as though a jack-rabbit would find scant concealment + there; that he charges like lightning, and that he can spring about + fifteen feet. This spring, coming unexpectedly from an unseen beast, is + about impossible to avoid. Sheer luck may land a fatal shot; but even then + the lion will probably do his damage before he dies. The rush from a short + distance a good quick shot ought to be able to cope with. + </p> + <p> + Therefore the wise hunter assures himself of at least twenty + feet-preferably more-of neutral zone all about him. No matter how long it + takes, he determines absolutely that the lion is not within that distance. + The rest is alertness and quickness. + </p> + <p> + As I have said, the amount of cover necessary to conceal a lion is + astonishingly small. He can flatten himself out surprisingly; and his + tawny colour blends so well with the brown grasses that he is practically + invisible. A practised man does not, of course, look for lions at all. He + is after unusual small patches, especially the black ear tips or the black + of the mane. Once guessed at, it is interesting to see how quickly the + hitherto unsuspected animal sketches itself out in the cover. + </p> + <p> + I should, before passing on to another aspect of the matter, mention the + dangerous poisons carried by the lion's claws. Often men have died from + the most trivial surface wounds. The grooves of the claws carry putrefying + meat from the kills. Every sensible man in a lion country carries a small + syringe, and either permanganate or carbolic. And those mild little + remedies he uses full strength! + </p> + <p> + The great and overwhelming advantage is of course with the hunter. He + possesses as deadly a weapon: and that weapon will kill at a distance. + This is proper, I think. There are more lions than hunters; and, from our + point of view, the man is more important than the beast. The game is not + too hazardous. By that I mean that, barring sheer accident, a man is sure + to come out all right provided he does accurately the right thing. In + other words, it is a dangerous game of skill, but it does not possess the + blind danger of a forest in a hurricane, say. Furthermore, it is a game + that no man need play unless he wants to. In the lion country he may go + about his business-daytime business-as though he were home at the farm. + </p> + <p> + Such being the case, may I be pardoned for intruding one of my own small + ethical ideas at this point, with the full realization that it depends + upon an entirely personal point of view. As far as my own case goes, I + consider it poor sportsmanship ever to refuse a lion-chance merely because + the advantages are not all in my favour. After all, lion hunting is on a + different plane from ordinary shooting: it is a challenge to war, a + deliberate seeking for mortal combat. Is it not just a little shameful to + pot old felis leo at long range, in the open, near his kill, and wherever + we have him at an advantage-nine times, and then to back out because that + advantage is for once not so marked? I have so often heard the phrase, “I + let him (or them) alone. It was not good enough,” meaning that the game + looked a little risky. + </p> + <p> + Do not misunderstand. I am not advising that you bull ahead into the long + grass, or that alone you open fire on a half dozen lions in easy range. + Kind providence endowed you with strategy, and certainly you should never + go in where there is no show for you to use your weapon effectively. But + occasionally the odds will be against you and you will be called upon to + take more or less of a chance. I do not think it is quite square to quit + playing merely because for once your opponent has been dealt the better + cards. If here are too many of them see if you cannot manoeuvre them; if + the grass is long, try every means in your power to get them out. Stay + with them. If finally you fail, you will at least have the satisfaction of + knowing that circumstances alone have defeated you. If you do not like + that sort of a game, stay out of it entirely. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0012" id="link2H_4_0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XII. MORE LIONS + </h2> + <p> + Nor do the last remarks of the preceding chapter mean that you shall not + have your trophy in peace. Perhaps excitement and a slight doubt as to + whether or not you are going to survive do not appeal to you; but + nevertheless you would like a lion skin or so. By all means shoot one + lion, or two, or three in the safest fashion you can. But after that you + ought to play the game. + </p> + <p> + The surest way to get a lion is to kill a zebra, cut holes in him, fill + the holes with strychnine, and come back next morning. This method is + absolutely safe. + </p> + <p> + The next safest way is to follow the quarry with a pack of especially + trained dogs. The lion is so busy and nervous over those dogs that you can + walk up and shoot him in the ear. This method has the excitement of riding + and following, the joy of a grand and noisy row, and the fun of seeing a + good dog-fight. The same effect can be got chasing wart-hogs, hyenas, + jackals-or jack-rabbits. The objection is that it wastes a noble beast in + an inferior game. My personal opinion is that no man is justified in + following with dogs any large animal that can be captured with reasonable + certainty without them. The sport of coursing is another matter; but that + is quite the same in essence whatever the size of the quarry. If you want + to kill a lion or so quite safely, and at the same time enjoy a glorious + and exciting gallop with lots of accompanying row, by all means follow the + sport with hounds. But having killed one or two by that method, quit. Do + not go on and clean up the country. You can do it. Poison and hounds are + the SURE methods of finding any lion there may be about; and AFTER THE + FIRST FEW, one is about as justifiable as the other. If you want the + undoubtedly great joy of cross country pursuit, send your hounds in after + less noble game. + </p> + <p> + The third safe method of killing a lion is nocturnal. You lay out a kill + beneath a tree, and climb the tree. Or better, you hitch out a pig or + donkey as live bait. When the lion comes to this free lunch, you try to + see him; and, if you succeed in that, you try to shoot him. It is not easy + to shoot at night; nor is it easy to see in the dark. Furthermore, lions + only occasionally bother to come to bait. You may roost up that tree many + nights before you get a chance. Once up, you have to stay up; for it is + most decidedly not safe to go home after dark. The tropical night in the + highlands is quite chilly. Branches seem to be quite as cramping and + abrasive under the equator as in the temperate zones. Still, it is one + method. + </p> + <p> + Another is to lay out a kill and visit it in the early morning. There is + more to this, for you are afoot, must generally search out your beast in + nearby cover, and can easily find any amount of excitement in the process. + </p> + <p> + The fourth way is to ride the lion. The hunter sees his quarry returning + home across the plains, perhaps; or jumps it from some small bushy ravine. + At once he spurs his horse in pursuit. The lion will run but a short + distance before coming to a stop, for he is not particularly long either + of wind or of patience. From this stand he almost invariably charges. The + astute hunter, still mounted, turns and flees. When the lion gets tired of + chasing, which he does in a very short time, the hunter faces about. At + last the lion sits down in the grass, waiting for the game to develop. + This is the time for the hunter to dismount and to take his shot. Quite + likely he must now stand a charge afoot, and drop his beast before it gets + to him. + </p> + <p> + This is real fun. It has many elements of safety, and many of danger. + </p> + <p> + To begin with, the hunter at this game generally has companions to back + him: often he employs mounted Somalis to round the lion up and get it to + stand. The charging lion is quite apt to make for the conspicuous mounted + men-who can easily escape-ignoring the hunter afoot. As the game is + largely played in the open, the movements of the beast are easily + followed. + </p> + <p> + On the other hand, there is room for mistake. The hunter, for example, + should never follow directly in the rear of his lion, but rather at a + parallel course off the beast's flank. Then, if the lion stops suddenly, + the man does not overrun before he can check his mount. He should never + dismount nearer than a hundred and fifty yards from the embayed animal; + and should never try to get off while the lion is moving in his direction. + Then, too, a hard gallop is not conducive to the best of shooting. It is + difficult to hold the front bead steady; and it is still more difficult to + remember to wait, once the lion charges, until he has come near enough for + a sure shot. A neglect in the inevitable excitement of the moment to + remember these and a dozen other small matters may quite possibly cause + trouble. + </p> + <p> + Two or three men together can make this one of the most exciting mounted + games on earth; with enough of the give and take of real danger and battle + to make it worth while. The hunter, however, who employs a dozen Somalis + to ride the beast to a standstill, after which he goes to the front, has + eliminated much of the thrill. Nor need that man's stay-at-home family + feel any excessive uneasiness over Father Killing Lions in Africa. + </p> + <p> + The method that interested me more than any other is one exceedingly + difficult to follow except under favourable circumstances. I refer to + tracking them down afoot. This requires that your gunbearer should be an + expert trailer, for, outside the fact that following a soft-padded animal + over all sorts of ground is a very difficult thing to do, the hunter + should be free to spy ahead. It is necessary also to possess much patience + and to endure under many disappointments. But on the other hand there is + in this sport a continuous keen thrill to be enjoyed in no other; and he + who single handed tracks down and kills his lion thus, has well earned the + title of shikari-the Hunter. + </p> + <p> + And the last method of all is to trust to the God of Chance. The secret of + success is to be always ready to take instant advantage of what the moment + offers. + </p> + <p> + An occasional hunting story is good in itself: and the following will also + serve to illustrate what I have just been saying. + </p> + <p> + We were after that prize, the greater kudu, and in his pursuit had + penetrated into some very rough country. Our hunting for the time being + was over broad bench, perhaps four or five miles wide, below a range of + mountains. The bench itself broke down in sheer cliffs some fifteen + hundred feet, but one did not appreciate that fact unless he stood fairly + on the edge of the precipice. To all intents and purposes we were on a + rolling grassy plain, with low hills and cliffs, and a most beautiful + little stream running down it beneath fine trees. + </p> + <p> + Up to now our hunting had gained us little beside information: that kudu + had occasionally visited the region, that they had not been there for a + month, and that the direction of their departure had been obscure. So we + worked our way down the stream, trying out the possibilities. Of other + game there seemed to be a fair supply: impalla, hartebeeste, zebra, eland, + buffalo, wart-hog, sing-sing, and giraffe we had seen. I had secured a + wonderful eland and a very fine impalla, and we had had a gorgeous + close-quarters fight with a cheetah.* Now C. had gone out, a three weeks' + journey, carrying to medical attendance a porter injured in the cheetah + fracas. Billy and I were continuing the hunt alone. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * This animal quite disproved the assertion that cheetahs + never assume the aggressive. He charged repeatedly. +</pre> + <p> + We had marched two hours, and were pitching camp under a single tree near + the edge of the bench. After seeing everything well under way, I took the + Springfield and crossed the stream, which here ran in a deep canyon. My + object was to see if I could get a sing-sing that had bounded away at our + approach. I did not bother to take a gunbearer, because I did not expect + to be gone five minutes. + </p> + <p> + The canyon proved unexpectedly deep and rough, and the stream up to my + waist. When I had gained the top, I found grass growing patchily from six + inches to two feet high; and small, scrubby trees from four to ten feet + tall, spaced regularly, but very scattered. These little trees hardly + formed cover, but their aggregation at sufficient distance limited the + view. + </p> + <p> + The sing-sing had evidently found his way over the edge of the bench. I + turned to go back to camp. A duiker-a small grass antelope-broke from a + little patch of the taller grass, rushed, head down headlong after their + fashion, suddenly changed his mind, and dashed back again. I stepped + forward to see why he had changed his mind-and ran into two lions! + </p> + <p> + They were about thirty yards away, and sat there on their haunches, side + by side, staring at me with expressionless yellow eyes. I stared back. The + Springfield is a good little gun, and three times before I had been forced + to shoot lions with it, but my real “lion gun” with which I had done best + work was the 405 Winchester. The Springfield is too light for such game. + Also there were two lions, very close. Also I was quite alone. + </p> + <p> + As the game stood, it hardly looked like my move; so I held still and + waited. Presently one yawned, they looked at each other, turned quite + leisurely, and began to move away at a walk. + </p> + <p> + This was a different matter. If I had fired while the two were facing me, + I should probably have had them both to deal with. But now that their + tails were turned toward me, I should very likely have to do with only the + one: at the crack of the rifle the other would run the way he was headed. + So I took a careful bead at the lioness and let drive. + </p> + <p> + My aim was to cripple the pelvic bone, but, unfortunately, just as I + fired, the beast wriggled lithely sidewise to pass around a tuft of grass, + so that the bullet inflicted merely a slight flesh wound on the rump. She + whirled like a flash, and as she raised her head high to locate me, I had + time to wish that the Springfield hit a trifle harder blow. Also I had + time to throw another cartridge in the barrel. + </p> + <p> + The moment she saw me she dropped her head and charged. She was thoroughly + angry and came very fast. I had just enough time to steady the gold bead + on her chest and to pull trigger. + </p> + <p> + At the shot, to my great relief, she turned bottom up, and I saw her tail + for an instant above the grass-an almost sure indication of a bad hit. She + thrashed around, and made a tremendous hullabaloo of snarls and growls. I + backed out slowly, my rifle ready. It was no place for me, for the grass + was over knee high. + </p> + <p> + Once at a safe distance I blazed a tree with my hunting knife and departed + for camp, well pleased to be out of it. At camp I ate lunch and had a + smoke; then with Memba Sasa and Mavrouki returned to the scene of trouble. + I had now the 405 Winchester, a light and handy weapon delivering a + tremendous blow. + </p> + <p> + We found the place readily enough. My lioness had recovered from the first + shock and had gone. I was very glad I had gone first. + </p> + <p> + The trail was not very plain, but it could be followed a foot or so at a + time, with many faults and casts back. I walked a yard to one side while + the men followed the spoor. Owing to the abundance of cover it was very + nervous work, for the beast might be almost anywhere, and would certainly + charge. We tried to keep a neutral zone around ourselves by tossing stones + ahead of and on both sides of our line of advance. My own position was not + bad, for I had the rifle ready in my hand, but the men were in danger. Of + course I was protecting them as well as I could, but there was always a + chance that the lioness might spring on them in such a manner that I would + be unable to use my weapon. Once I suggested that as the work was + dangerous, they could quit if they wanted to. + </p> + <p> + “Hapana!” they both refused indignantly. + </p> + <p> + We had proceeded thus for half a mile when to our relief, right ahead of + us, sounded the commanding, rumbling half-roar, half-growl of the lion at + bay. + </p> + <p> + Instantly Memba Sasa and Mavrouki dropped back to me. We all peered ahead. + One of the boys made her out first, crouched under a bush thirty-two yards + away. Even as I raised the rifle she saw us and charged. I caught her in + the chest before she had come ten feet. The heavy bullet stopped her dead. + Then she recovered and started forward slowly, very weak, but game to the + last. Another shot finished her. + </p> + <p> + The remarkable point of this incident was the action of the little + Springfield bullet. Evidently the very high velocity of this bullet from + its shock to the nervous system had delivered a paralyzing blow sufficient + to knock out the lioness for the time being. Its damage to tissue, + however, was slight. Inasmuch as the initial shock did not cause immediate + death, the lioness recovered sufficiently to be able, two hours later, to + take the offensive. This point is of the greatest interest to the student + of ballistics; but it is curious to even the ordinary reader. + </p> + <p> + That is a very typical example of finding lions by sheer chance. Generally + a man is out looking for the smallest kind of game when he runs up against + them. Now happened to follow an equally typical example of tracking. + </p> + <p> + The next day after the killing of the lioness Memba Sasa, Kongoni and I + dropped off the bench, and hunted greater kudu on a series of terraces + fifteen hundred feet below. All we found were two rhino, some sing-sing, a + heard of impalla, and a tremendous thirst. In the meantime, Mavrouki had, + under orders, scouted the foothills of the mountain range at the back. He + reported none but old tracks of kudu, but said he had seen eight lions not + far from our encounter of the day before. + </p> + <p> + Therefore, as soon next morning as we could see plainly, we again crossed + the canyon and the waist-deep stream. I had with me all three of the gun + men, and in addition two of the most courageous porters to help with the + tracking and the looking. + </p> + <p> + About eight o'clock we found the first fresh pad mark plainly outlined in + an isolated piece of soft earth. Immediately we began that most + fascinating of games-trailing over difficult ground. In this we could all + take part, for the tracks were some hours old, and the cover scanty. Very + rarely could we make out more than three successive marks. Then we had to + spy carefully for the slightest indication of direction. Kongoni in + especial was wonderful at this, and time and again picked up a broken + grass blade or the minutest inch-fraction of disturbed earth. We moved + slowly, in long hesitations and castings about, and in swift little dashes + forward of a few feet; and often we went astray on false scents, only to + return finally to the last certain spot. In this manner we crossed the + little plain with the scattered shrub trees and arrived at the edge of the + low bluff above the stream bottom. + </p> + <p> + This bottom was well wooded along the immediate bank of the stream itself, + fringed with low thick brush, and in the open spaces grown to the edges + with high, green, coarse grass. + </p> + <p> + As soon as we had managed to follow without fault to this grass, our + difficulties of trailing were at an end. The lions' heavy bodies had made + distinct paths through the tangle. These paths went forward sinuously, + sometimes separating one from the other, sometimes intertwining, sometimes + combining into one for a short distance. We could not determine accurately + the number of beasts that had made them. + </p> + <p> + “They have gone to drink water,” said Memba Sasa. + </p> + <p> + We slipped along the twisting paths, alert for indications; came to the + edge of the thicket, stooped through the fringe, and descended to the + stream under the tall trees. The soft earth at the water's edge was + covered with tracks, thickly overlaid one over the other. The boys felt of + the earth, examined, even smelled, and came to the conclusion that the + beasts must have watered about five o'clock. If so, they might be ten + miles away, or as many rods. + </p> + <p> + We had difficulty in determining just where the party left this place, + until finally Kongoni caught sight of suspicious indications over the way. + The lions had crossed the stream. We did likewise, followed the trail out + of the thicket, into the grass, below the little cliffs parallel to the + stream, back into the thicket, across the river once more, up the other + side, in the thicket for a quarter mile, then out into the grass on that + side, and so on. They were evidently wandering, rather idly, up the + general course of the stream. Certainly, unlike most cats, they did not + mind getting their feet wet, for they crossed the stream four times. + </p> + <p> + At last the twining paths in the shoulder-high grass fanned out + separately. We counted. + </p> + <p> + “You were right, Mavrouki,” said I, “there were eight.” + </p> + <p> + At the end of each path was a beaten-down little space where evidently the + beasts had been lying down. With an exclamation the three gunbearers + darted forward to investigate. The lairs were still warm! Their occupants + had evidently made off only at our approach! + </p> + <p> + Not five minutes later we were halted by a low warning growl right ahead. + We stopped. The boys squatted on their heels close to me, and we consulted + in whispers. + </p> + <p> + Of course it would be sheer madness to attack eight lions in grass so high + we could not see five feet in front of us. That went without saying. On + the other hand, Mavrouki swore that he had yesterday seen no small cubs + with the band, and our examination of the tracks made in soft earth seemed + to bear him out. The chances were therefore that, unless themselves + attacked or too close pressed, the lions would not attack us. By keeping + just in their rear we might be able to urge them gently along until they + should enter more open cover. Then we could see. + </p> + <p> + Therefore we gave the owner of that growl about five minutes to forget it, + and then advanced very cautiously. We soon found where the objector had + halted, and plainly read by the indications where he had stood for a + moment or so, and then moved on. We slipped along after. + </p> + <p> + For five hours we hung at the heels of that band of lions, moving very + slowly, perfectly willing to halt whenever they told us to, and going + forward again only when we became convinced that they too had gone on. + Except for the first half hour, we were never more than twenty or thirty + yards from the nearest lion, and often much closer. Three or four times I + saw slowly gliding yellow bodies just ahead of me, but in the + circumstances it would have been sheer stark lunacy to have fired. + Probably six or eight times-I did not count-we were commanded to stop, and + we did stop. + </p> + <p> + It was very exciting work, but the men never faltered. Of course I went + first, in case one of the beasts had the toothache or otherwise did not + play up to our calculations on good nature. One or the other of the + gunbearers was always just behind me. Only once was any comment made. + Kongoni looked very closely into my face. + </p> + <p> + “There are very many lions,” he remarked doubtfully. + </p> + <p> + “Very many lions,” I agreed, as though assenting to a mere statement of + fact. + </p> + <p> + Although I am convinced there was no real danger, as long as we stuck to + our plan of campaign, nevertheless it was quite interesting to be for so + long a period so near these great brutes. They led us for a mile or so + along the course of the stream, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the + other. Several times they emerged into better cover, and even into the + open, but always ducked back into the thick again before we ourselves had + followed their trail to the clear. + </p> + <p> + At noon we were halted by the usual growl just as we had reached the edge + of the river. So we sat down on the banks and had lunch. + </p> + <p> + Finally our chance came. The trail led us, for the dozenth time, from the + high grass into the thicket along the river. We ducked our heads to enter. + Memba Sasa, next my shoulder, snapped his fingers violently. Following the + direction of the brown arm that shot over my shoulder, I strained my eyes + into the dimness of the thicket. At first I could see nothing at all, but + at length a slight motion drew my eye. Then I made out the silhouette of a + lion's head, facing us steadily. One of the rear guard had again turned to + halt us, but this time where he and his surroundings could be seen. + </p> + <p> + Luckily I always use a Sheard gold bead sight, and even in the dimness of + the tree-shaded thicket it showed up well. The beast was only forty yards + away, so I fired at his head. He rolled over without a sound. + </p> + <p> + We took the usual great precautions in determining the genuineness of his + demise, then carried him into the open. Strangely enough the bullet had + gone so cleanly into his left eye that it had not even broken the edge of + the eyelid; so that when skinned he did not show a mark. He was a very + decent maned lion, three feet four inches at the shoulder, and nine feet + long as he lay. We found that he had indeed been the rear guard, and that + the rest, on the other side of the thicket, had made off at the shot. So + in spite of the APPARENT danger of the situation, our calculations had + worked out perfectly. Also we had enjoyed a half day's sport of an + intensity quite impossible to be extracted from any other method of + following the lion. + </p> + <p> + In trying to guess how any particular lions may act, however, you will + find yourself often at fault. The lion is a very intelligent and crafty + beast, and addicted to tricks. If you follow a lion to a small hill, it is + well to go around that hill on the side opposite to that taken by your + quarry. You are quite likely to meet him for he is clever enough thus to + try to get in your rear. He will lie until you have actually passed him + before breaking off. He will circle ahead, then back to confuse his trail. + And when you catch sight of him in the distance, you would never suspect + that he knew of your presence at all. He saunters slowly, apparently + aimlessly, along pausing often, evidently too bored to take any interest + in life. You wait quite breathlessly for him to pass behind cover. Then + you are going to make a very rapid advance, and catch his leisurely + retreat. But the moment old Leo does pass behind the cover, his appearance + of idle stroller vanishes. In a dozen bounds he is gone. + </p> + <p> + That is what makes lion hunting delightful. There are some regions, very + near settlements, where it is perhaps justifiable to poison these beasts. + If you are a true sportsman you will confine your hound-hunting to those + districts. Elsewhere, as far as playing fair with a noble beast is + concerned, you may as well toss a coin to see which you shall take-your + pack or a strychnine bottle. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0013" id="link2H_4_0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XIII. ON THE MANAGING OF A SAFARI + </h2> + <p> + We made our way slowly down the river. As the elevation dropped, the + temperature rose. It was very hot indeed during the day, and in the + evening the air was tepid and caressing, and musical with the hum of + insects. We sat about quite comfortably in our pajamas, and took our + fifteen grains of quinine per week against the fever. + </p> + <p> + The character of the jungle along the river changed imperceptibly, the + dhum palms crowding out the other trees; until, at our last camp, were + nothing but palms. The wind in them sounded variously like the patter or + the gathering onrush of rain. On either side the country remained + unchanged, however. The volcanic hills rolled away to the distant ranges. + Everywhere grew sparsely the low thornbrush, opening sometimes into clear + plains, closing sometimes into dense thickets. One morning we awoke to + find that many supposedly sober-minded trees had burst into blossom fairly + over night. They were red, and yellow and white that before were green, a + truly gorgeous sight. + </p> + <p> + Then we turned sharp to the right and began to ascend a little tributary + brook coming down the wide flats from a cleft in the hills. This was + prettily named the Isiola, and, after the first mile or so, was not big + enough to afford the luxury of a jungle of its own. Its banks were + generally grassy and steep, its thickets few, and its little trees + isolated in parklike spaces. To either side of it, and almost at its + level, stretched plains, but plains grown with scattered brush and shrubs + so that at a mile or two one's vista was closed. But for all its scant ten + feet of width the Isiola stood upon its dignity as a stream. We discovered + that when we tried to cross. The men floundered waist-deep on uncertain + bottom; the syces received much unsympathetic comment for their handling + of the animals, and we had to get Billy over by a melodramatic “bridge of + life” with B., F., myself, and Memba Sasa in the title roles. + </p> + <p> + Then we pitched camp in the open on the other side, sent the horses back + from the stream until after dark, in fear of the deadly tsetse fly, and + prepared to enjoy a good exploration of the neighbourhood. Whereupon + M'ganga rose up to his gaunt and terrific height of authority, stretched + forth his bony arm at right angles, and uttered between eight and nine + thousand commands in a high dynamic monotone without a single pause for + breath. These, supplemented by about as many more, resulted in (a) a + bridge across the stream, and (b) a banda. + </p> + <p> + A banda is a delightful African institution. It springs from nothing in + about two hours, but it takes twenty boys with a vitriolic M'ganga back of + them to bring it about. Some of them carry huge backloads of grass, or + papyrus, or cat-tail rushes, as the case may be; others lug in poles of + various lengths from where their comrades are cutting them by means of + their panga. A panga, parenthetically, is the safari man's substitute for + axe, shovel, pick, knife, sickle, lawn-mower, hammer, gatling gun, world's + library of classics, higher mathematics, grand opera, and toothpicks. It + looks rather like a machete with a very broad end and a slight curved + back. A good man can do extraordinary things with it. Indeed, at this + moment, two boys are with this apparently clumsy implement delicately + peeling some of the small thorn trees, from the bared trunks of which they + are stripping long bands of tough inner bark. + </p> + <p> + With these three raw materials-poles, withes, and grass-M'ganga and his + men set to work. They planted their corner and end poles, they laid their + rafters, they completed their framework, binding all with the tough + withes; then deftly they thatched it with the grass. Almost before we had + settled our own affairs, M'ganga was standing before us smiling. Gone now + was his mien of high indignation and swirling energy. + </p> + <p> + “Banda naquisha,” he informed us. + </p> + <p> + And we moved in our table and our canvas chairs; hung up our water + bottles; Billy got out her fancy work. Nothing could be pleasanter nor + more appropriate to the climate than this wide low arbour, open at either + end to the breezes, thatched so thickly that the fierce sun could nowhere + strike through. + </p> + <p> + The men had now settled down to a knowledge of what we were like; and + things were going smoothly. At first the African porter will try it on to + see just how easy you are likely to prove. If he makes up his mind that + you really are easy, then you are in for infinite petty annoyance, and + possibly open mutiny. Therefore, for a little while, it is necessary to be + extremely vigilant, to insist on minute performance in all circumstances + where later you might condone an omission. For the same reason punishment + must be more frequent and more severe at the outset. It is all a matter of + watching the temper of the men. If they are cheerful and willing, you are + not nearly as particular as you would be were their spirit becoming + sullen. Then the infraction is not so important in itself as an excuse for + the punishment. For when your men get sulky, you watch vigilantly for the + first and faintest EXCUSE to inflict punishment. + </p> + <p> + This game always seemed to me very fascinating, when played right. It is + often played wrong. People do not look far enough. Because they see that + punishment has a most salutary effect on morale, and is sometimes + efficacious in getting things done that otherwise would lag, they jump to + the conclusion that the only effective way to handle a safari is by + penalties. By this I do not at all mean that they act savagely, or punish + to brutal excess. Merely they hold rigidly to the letter of the work and + the day's discipline. Because it is sometimes necessary to punish severely + slight infractions when the men's tempers need sweetening, they ALWAYS + punish slight infractions severely. + </p> + <p> + And in ordinary circumstances this method undoubtedly results in a very + efficient safari. Things are done smartly, on time, with a snap. The day's + march begins without delay; there is a minimum of straggling; on arrival + the tents are immediately got up and the wood and water fetched. But in a + tight place, men so handled by invariable rule are very apt to sit down + apathetically, and put the whole thing up to the white man. When it comes + time to help out they are not there. The contrast with a well-disposed + safari cannot be appreciated by one who has not seen both. + </p> + <p> + The safari-man loves a master. He does not for a moment understand any + well-meant but misplaced efforts on your part to lighten his work below + the requirements of custom. Always he will beg you to ease up on him, to + accord him favour; and always he will despise you if you yield. The + relations of man to man, of man to work, are all long since established by + immemorial distauri-custom-and it is not for you or him to change them + lightly. If you know what he should or can do, and hold him rigidly to it, + he will respect and follow you. + </p> + <p> + But in order to keep him up to the mark, it is not always advisable to + light into him with a whip, necessary as the whip often is. If he is + sullen, or inclined to make mischief, then that is the crying requirement. + But if he is merely careless, or a little slow, or tired, you can handle + him in other ways. Ridicule before his comrades is very effective: a sort + of good-natured guying, I mean. “Ah! very tired!” uttered in the right + tone of voice has brought many a loiterer to his feet as effectively as + the kick some men feel must always be bestowed, and quite without anger, + mind you! For days at a time we have kept our men travelling at good speed + by commenting, as though by the way, after we had arrived in camp, on + which tribe happened to come in at the head. + </p> + <p> + “Ah! Kavirondos came in first to-night,” we would remark. “Last night the + Monumwezis were ahead.” + </p> + <p> + And once, actually, by this method we succeeded in working up such a + feeling of rivalry that the Kikuyus, the unambitious, weak and despised + Kikuyus, led the van! + </p> + <p> + But the first hint of insubordination, of intended insolence, of willful + shirking must be met by instant authority. Occasionally, when the + situation is of the quick and sharp variety, the white man may have to mix + in the row himself. He must never hesitate an instant; for the only reason + he alone can control so many is that he has always controlled them. F. had + a very effective blow, or shove, which I found well worth adopting. It is + delivered with the heel of the palm to the man's chin, and is more of a + lifting, heaving shove than an actual blow. Its effect is immediately + upsetting. Impertinence is best dealt with in this manner on the spot. + Evidently intended slowness in coming when called is also best treated by + a flick of the whip-and forgetfulness. And so with a half dozen others. + But any more serious matter should be decided from the throne of the + canvas chair, witness should be heard, judgment formally pronounced, and + execution intrusted to the askaris or gunbearers. + </p> + <p> + It is, as I have said, a most interesting game. It demands three sorts of + knowledge: first what a safari man is capable of doing; second, what he + customarily should or should not do; third, an ability to read the actual + intention or motive back of his actions. When you are able to punish or + hold your hand on these principles, and not merely because things have or + have not gone smoothly or right, then you are a good safari manager. There + are mighty few of them. + </p> + <p> + As for punishment, that is quite simply the whip. The average writer on + the country speaks of this with hushed voice and averted face as a + necessity but as something to be deprecated and passed over as quickly as + possible. He does this because he thinks he ought to. As a matter of fact, + such an attitude is all poppycock. In the flogging of a white man, or a + black who suffers from such a punishment in his soul as well as his body, + this is all very well. But the safari man expects it, it doesn't hurt his + feelings in the least, it is ancient custom. As well sentimentalize over + necessary schoolboy punishment, or over father paddy-whacking little + Willie when little Willie has been a bad boy. The chances are your porter + will leap to his feet, crack his heels together and depart with a whoop of + joy, grinning from ear to ear. Or he may draw himself up and salute you, + military fashion, again with a grin. In any case his “soul” is not + “scared” a little bit, and there is no sense in yourself feeling about it + as though it were. + </p> + <p> + At another slant the justice you will dispense to your men differs from + our own. Again this is because of the teaching long tradition has made + part of their mental make-up. Our own belief is that it is better to let + two guilty men go than to punish one innocent. With natives it is the + other way about. If a crime is committed the guilty MUST be punished. + Preferably he alone is to be dealt with; but in case it is impossible to + identify him, then all the members of the first inclusive unit must be + brought to account. This is the native way of doing things; is the only + way the native understands; and is the only way that in his mind true + justice is answered. Thus if a sheep is stolen, the thief must be caught + and punished. Suppose, however it is known to what family the thief + belongs, but the family refuses to disclose which of its members committed + the theft: then each member must be punished for sheep stealing; or, if + not the family, then the tribe must make restitution. But punishment MUST + be inflicted. + </p> + <p> + There is an essential justice to recommend this, outside the fact that it + has with the native all the solidity of accepted ethics, and it certainly + helps to run the real criminal to earth. The innocent sometimes suffers + innocently, but not very often; and our own records show that in that + respect with us it is the same. This is not the place to argue the right + or wrong of the matter from our own standpoint but to recognize the fact + that it is right from theirs, and to act accordingly. Thus in cast of + theft of meat, or something that cannot be traced, it is well to call up + the witnesses, to prove the alibis, and then to place the issue squarely + up to those that remain. There may be but two, or there may be a dozen. + </p> + <p> + “I know you did not all steal the meat,” you must say, “but I know that + one of you did. Unless I know which one that is by to-morrow morning, I + will kiboko all of you. Bass!” + </p> + <p> + Perhaps occasionally you may have to kiboko the lot, in the full knowledge + that most are innocent. That seems hard; and your heart will misgive you. + Harden it. The “innocent” probably know perfectly well who the guilty man + is. And the incident builds for the future. + </p> + <p> + I had intended nowhere to comment on the politics or policies of the + country. Nothing is more silly than the casual visitor's snap judgments on + how a country is run. Nevertheless, I may perhaps be pardoned for + suggesting that the Government would strengthen its hand, and aid its few + straggling settlers by adopting this native view of retributions. For + instance, at present it is absolutely impossible to identify individual + sheep and cattle stealers. They operate stealthily and at night. If the + Government cannot identify the actual thief, it gives the matter up. As a + consequence a great hardship is inflicted on the settler and an evil + increases. If, however, the Government would hold the village, the + district, or the tribe responsible, and exact just compensation from such + units in every case, the evil would very suddenly come to an end. And the + native's respect for the white man would climb in the scale. + </p> + <p> + Once the safari man gets confidence in his master, that confidence is + complete. The white man's duties are in his mind clearly defined. His job + is to see that the black man is fed, is watered, is taken care of in every + way. The ordinary porter considers himself quite devoid of responsibility. + He is also an improvident creature, for he drinks all his water when he + gets thirsty, no matter how long and hot the journey before him; he eats + his rations all up when he happens to get hungry, two days before next + distribution time; he straggles outrageously at times and has to be + rounded up; he works three months and, on a whim, deserts two days before + the end of his journey, thus forfeiting all his wages. Once two porters + came to us for money. + </p> + <p> + “What for?” asked C. + </p> + <p> + “To buy a sheep,” said they. + </p> + <p> + For two months we had been shooting them all the game meat they could eat, + but on this occasion two days had intervened since the last kill. If they + had been on trading safari they would have had no meat at all. A sheep + cost six rupees in that country, and they were getting but ten rupees a + month as wages. In view of the circumstances, and for their own good, we + refused. Another man once insisted on purchasing a cake of violet-scented + soap for a rupee. Their chief idea of a wild time in Nairobi, after return + from a long safari, is to SIT IN A CHAIR and drink tea. For this they pay + exorbitantly at the Somali so-called “hotels.” It is a strange sight. But + then, I have seen cowboys off the range or lumberjacks from the river do + equally extravagant and foolish things. + </p> + <p> + On the other hand they carry their loads well, they march tremendously, + they know their camp duties and they do them. Under adverse circumstances + they are good-natured. I remember C. and I, being belated and lost in a + driving rain. We wandered until nearly midnight. The four or five men with + us were loaded heavily with the meat and trophy of a roan. Certainly they + must have been very tired; for only occasionally could we permit them to + lay down their loads. Most of the time we were actually groping, over + boulders, volcanic rocks, fallen trees and all sorts of tribulation. The + men took it as a huge joke, and at every pause laughed consumedly. + </p> + <p> + In making up a safari one tries to mix in four or five tribes. This + prevents concerted action in case of trouble, for no one tribe will help + another. They vary both in tribal and individual characteristics, of + course. For example, the Kikuyus are docile but mediocre porters; the + Kavirondos strong carriers but turbulent and difficult to handle. You are + very lucky if you happen on a camp jester, one of the sort that sings, + shouts, or jokes while on the march. He is probably not much as a porter, + but he is worth his wages nevertheless. He may or may not aspire to his + giddy eminence. We had one droll-faced little Kavirondo whose very + expression made one laugh, and whose rueful remarks on the harshness of + his lot finally ended by being funny. His name got to be a catchword in + camp. + </p> + <p> + “Mualo! Mualo!” the men would cry, as they heaved their burdens to their + heads; and all day long their war cry would ring out, “Mualo!” followed by + shrieks of laughter. + </p> + <p> + Of the other type was Sulimani, a big, one-eyed Monumwezi, who had a + really keen wit coupled with an earnest, solemn manner. This man was no + buffoon, however; and he was a good porter, always at or near the head of + the procession. In the great jungle south of Kenia we came upon + Cuninghame. When the head of our safari reached the spot Sulimani left the + ranks and, his load still aloft danced solemnly in front of Cuninghame, + chanting something in a loud tone of voice. Then with a final deep + “Jambo!” to his old master he rejoined the safari. When the day had + stretched to weariness and the men had fallen to a sullen plodding, + Sulimani's vigorous song could always set the safari sticks tapping the + sides of the chop boxes. + </p> + <p> + He carried part of the tent, and the next best men were entrusted with the + cook outfit and our personal effects. It was a point of honour with these + men to be the first in camp. The rear, the very extreme and straggling + rear, was brought up by worthless porters with loads of cornmeal-and the + weary askaris whose duty it was to keep astern and herd the lot in. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0014" id="link2H_4_0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XIV. A DAY ON THE ISIOLA + </h2> + <p> + Early one morning-we were still on the Isiola-we set forth on our horses + to ride across the rolling, brush-grown plain. Our intention was to + proceed at right angles to our own little stream until we had reached the + forest growth of another, which we could dimly make out eight or ten miles + distant. Billy went with us, so there were four a-horseback. Behind us + trudged the gunbearers, and the syces, and after them straggled a dozen or + fifteen porters. + </p> + <p> + The sun was just up, and the air was only tepid as yet. From patches of + high grass whirred and rocketed grouse of two sorts. They were so much + like our own ruffed grouse and prairie chicken that I could with no effort + imagine myself once more a boy in the coverts of the Middle West. Only + before us we could see the stripes of trotting zebra disappearing; and + catch the glint of light on the bayonets of the oryx. Two giraffes + galumphed away to the right. Little grass antelope darted from clump to + clump of grass. Once we saw gerenuk-oh, far away in an impossible + distance. Of course we tried to stalk them; and as usual we failed. The + gerenuk we had come to look upon as our Lesser Hoodoo. + </p> + <p> + The beast is a gazelle about as big as a black-tailed deer. His + peculiarity is his excessively long neck, a good deal on the giraffe + order. With it he crops browse above high tide mark of other animals, + especially when as often happens he balances cleverly on his hind legs. By + means of it also he can, with his body completely concealed, look over the + top of ordinary cover and see you long before you have made out his + inconspicuous little head. Then he departs. He seems to have a lamentable + lack of healthy curiosity about you. In that respect he should take + lessons from the kongoni. After that you can follow him as far as you + please; you will get only glimpses at three or four hundred yards. + </p> + <p> + We remounted sadly and rode on. The surface of the ground was rather soft, + scattered with round rocks the size of a man's head, and full of pig + holes. + </p> + <p> + “Cheerful country to ride over at speed,” remarked Billy. Later in the day + we had occasion to remember that statement. + </p> + <p> + The plains led us ever on. First would be a band of scattered brush + growing singly and in small clumps: then a little open prairie; then a + narrow, long grass swale; then perhaps a low, long hill with small single + trees and rough, volcanic footing. Ten thousand things kept us interested. + Game was everywhere, feeding singly, in groups, in herds, game of all + sizes and descriptions. The rounded ears of jackals pointed at us from the + grass. Hundreds of birds balanced or fluttered about us, birds of all + sizes from the big ground hornbill to the littlest hummers and sun birds. + Overhead, across the wonderful variegated sky of Africa the broad-winged + carrion hunters and birds of prey wheeled. In all our stay on the Isiola + we had not seen a single rhino track, so we rode quite care free and + happy. + </p> + <p> + Finally, across a glade, not over a hundred and fifty yards away, we saw a + solitary bull oryx standing under a bush. B. wanted an oryx. We discussed + this one idly. He looked to be a decent oryx, but nothing especial. + However, he offered a very good shot; so B., after some hesitation, + decided to take it. It proved to be by far the best specimen we shot, the + horns measuring thirty-six and three fourths inches! Almost immediately + after, two of the rather rare striped hyenas leaped from the grass and + departed rapidly over the top of a hill. We opened fire, and F. dropped + one of them. By the time these trophies were prepared, the sun had mounted + high in the heavens, and it was getting hot. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly we abandoned that still distant river and swung away in a wide + circle to return to camp. + </p> + <p> + Several minor adventures brought us to high noon and the heat of the day. + B. had succeeded in drawing a prize, one of the Grevy's or mountain zebra. + He and the gunbearers engaged themselves with that, while we sat under the + rather scanty shade of a small thorn tree and had lunch. Here we had a + favourable chance to observe that very common, but always wonderful + phenomenon, the gathering of the carrion birds. Within five minutes after + the stoop of the first vulture above the carcass, the sky immediately over + that one spot was fairly darkened with them. They were as thick as + midges-or as ducks used to be in California. All sizes were there from the + little carrion crows to the great dignified vultures and marabouts and + eagles. The small fry flopped and scolded, and rose and fell in a dense + mass; the marabouts walked with dignified pace to and fro through the + grass all about. As far as the eye could penetrate the blue, it could make + out more and yet more of the great soarers stooping with half bent wings. + Below we could see uncertainly through the shimmer of the mirage the bent + forms of the men. + </p> + <p> + We ate and waited; and after a little we dozed. I was awakened suddenly by + a tremendous rushing roar, like the sound of a not too distant waterfall. + The group of men were plodding toward us carrying burdens. And like + plummets the birds were dropping straight down from the heavens, spreading + wide their wings at the last moment to check their speed. This made the + roaring sound that had awakened me. + </p> + <p> + A wide spot in the shimmer showed black and struggling against the ground. + I arose and walked over, meeting halfway B. and the men carrying the meat. + It took me probably about two minutes to reach the place where the zebra + had been killed. Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of the great birds were + standing idly about; a dozen or so were flapping and scrambling in the + centre. I stepped into view. With a mighty commotion they all took wing + clumsily, awkwardly, reluctantly. A trampled, bloody space and the larger + bones, picked absolutely clean, was all that remained! In less than two + minutes the job had been done! + </p> + <p> + “You're certainly good workmen!” I exclaimed, “but I wonder how you all + make a living!” + </p> + <p> + We started the men on to camp with the meat, and ourselves rested under + the shade. The day had been a full and interesting one; but we considered + it as finished. Remained only the hot journey back to camp. + </p> + <p> + After a half hour we mounted again and rode on slowly. The sun was very + strong and a heavy shimmer clothed the plain. Through this shimmer we + caught sight of something large and black and flapping. It looked like a + crow-or, better, a scare-crow-crippled, half flying, half running, with + waving wings or arms, now dwindling, now gigantic as the mirage caught it + up or let it drop. As we watched, it developed, and we made it out to be a + porter, clad in a long, ragged black overcoat, running zigzag through the + bushes in our direction. + </p> + <p> + The moment we identified it we spurred our horses forward. As my horse + leaped, Memba Sasa snatched the Springfield from my left hand and forced + the 405 Winchester upon me. Clever Memba Sasa! He no more than we knew + what was up, but shrewdly concluded that whatever it was it needed a heavy + gun. + </p> + <p> + As we galloped to meet him, the porter stopped. We saw him to be a very + long-legged, raggedy youth whom we had nicknamed the Marabout because of + his exceedingly long, lean legs, the fact that his breeches were white, + short and baggy, and because he kept his entire head shaved close. He + called himself Fundi, which means The Expert, a sufficient indication of + his confidence in himself. + </p> + <p> + He awaited us leaning on his safari stick, panting heavily, the sweat + running off his face in splashes. “Simba!”* said he, and immediately set + off on a long, easy lope ahead of us. We pulled down to a trot and + followed him. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Lion +</pre> + <p> + At the end of a half mile we made out a man up a tree. Fundi, out of + breath, stopped short and pointed to this man. The latter, as soon as he + had seen us, commenced to scramble down. We spurred forward to find out + where the lions had been last seen. + </p> + <p> + Then Billy covered herself with glory by seeing them first. She apprised + us of that fact with some excitement. We saw the long, yellow bodies of + two of them disappearing in the edge of the brush about three hundred + yards away. With a wild whoop we tore after them at a dead run. + </p> + <p> + Then began a wild ride. Do you remember Billy's remark about the nature of + the footing? Before long we closed in near enough to catch occasional + glimpses of the beasts, bounding easily along. At that moment B.'s horse + went down in a heap. None of us thought for a moment of pulling up. I + looked back to see B. getting up again, and thought I caught fragments of + encouraging-sounding language. Then my horse went down. I managed to hold + my rifle clear, and to cling to the reins. Did you ever try to get on a + somewhat demoralized horse in a frantic hurry, when all your friends were + getting farther away every minute, and so lessening your chances of being + in the fun? I began to understand perfectly B.'s remarks of a moment + before. However, on I scrambled, and soon overtook the hunt. + </p> + <p> + We dodged in and out of bushes, and around and over holes. Every few + moments we would catch a glimpse of one of those silently bounding lions, + and then we would let out a yell. Also every few moments one or the other + of us would go down in a heap, and would scramble up and curse, and + remount hastily. Billy had better luck. She had no gun, and belonged a + little in the rear anyway, but was coming along game as a badger for all + that. + </p> + <p> + My own horse had the legs of the others quite easily, and for that reason + I was ahead far enough to see the magnificent sight of five lions sideways + on, all in a row, standing in the grass gazing at me with a sort of calm + and impersonal dignity. I wheeled my horse immediately so as to be ready + in case of a charge, and yelled to the others to hurry up. While I sat + there, they moved slowly off one after the other, so that by the time the + men had come, the lions had gone. We now had no difficulty in running into + them again. Once more my better animal brought me to the lead, so that for + the second time I drew up facing the lions, and at about one hundred yards + range. One by one they began to leave as before, very leisurely and + haughtily, until a single old maned fellow remained. He, however, sat + there, his great round head peering over the top of the grass. + </p> + <p> + “Well,” he seemed to say, “here I am, what do you intend to do about it?” + </p> + <p> + The others arrived, and we all dismounted. B. had not yet killed his lion, + so the shot was his. Billy very coolly came up behind and held his horse. + I should like here to remark that Billy is very terrified of spiders. F. + and I stood at the ready, and B. sat down. + </p> + <p> + Riding fast an exciting mile or so, getting chucked on your head two or + three times, and facing your first lion are none of them conducive to + steady shooting. The first shot therefore went high, but the second hit + the lion square in the chest, and he rolled over dead. + </p> + <p> + We all danced a little war dance, and congratulated B. and turned to get + the meaning of a queer little gurgling gasp behind us. There was Fundi! + That long-legged scarecrow, not content with running to get us and then + back again, had trailed us the whole distance of our mad chase over broken + ground at terrific speed in order to be in at the death. And he was just + about all in at the death. He could barely gasp his breath, his eyes stuck + out; he looked close to apoplexy. + </p> + <p> + “Bwana! bwana!” was all he could say. “Master! master!” + </p> + <p> + We shook hands with Fundi. + </p> + <p> + “My son,” said I, “you're a true sport, and you'll surely get yours + later.” + </p> + <p> + He did not understand me, but he grinned. The gunbearers began to drift + in, also completely pumped. They set up a feeble shout when they saw the + dead lion. It was a good maned beast, three feet six inches at the + shoulder, and nine feet long. + </p> + <p> + We left Fundi with the lion, instructing him to stay there until some of + the other men came up. We remounted and pushed on slowly in hopes of + coming on one of the others. + </p> + <p> + Here and there we rode, our courses interweaving, looking eagerly. And lo! + through a tiny opening in the brush we espied one of those elusive gerenuk + standing not over one hundred yards away. Whereupon I dismounted and did + some of the worst shooting I perpetrated in Africa, for I let loose three + times at him before I landed. But land I did, and there was one Lesser + Hoodoo broken. Truly this was our day. + </p> + <p> + We measured him and started to prepare the trophy, when to us came + Mavrouki and a porter, quite out of breath, but able to tell us that they + had been scouting around and had seen two of the lions. Then, instead of + leaving one up a tree to watch, both had come pell-mell to tell us all + about it. We pointed this out to them, and called their attention to the + fact that the brush was wide, that lions are not stationary objects, and + that, unlike the leopard, they can change their spots quite readily. + However, we remounted and went to take a look. + </p> + <p> + Of course there was nothing. So we rode on, rather aimlessly, weaving in + and out of the bushes and open spaces. I think we were all a little tired + from the long day and the excitement, and hence a bit listless. Suddenly + we were fairly shaken out of our saddles by an angry roar just ahead. + Usually a lion growls, low and thunderous, when he wants, to warn you that + you have gone about far enough; but this one was angry all through at + being followed about so much, and he just plain yelled at us. + </p> + <p> + He crouched near a bush forty yards away, and was switching his tail. I + had heard that this was a sure premonition of an instant charge, but I had + not before realized exactly what “switching the tail” meant. I had thought + of it as a slow sweeping from side to side, after the manner of the + domestic cat. This lion's tail was whirling perpendicularly from right to + left, and from left to right with the speed and energy of a flail actuated + by a particularly instantaneous kind of machinery. I could see only the + outline of the head and this vigorous tail; but I took instant aim and let + drive. The whole affair sank out of sight. + </p> + <p> + We made a detour around the dead lion without stopping to examine him, + shouting to one of the men to stay and watch the carcass. Billy alone + seemed uninfected with the now prevalent idea that we were likely to find + lions almost anywhere. Her skepticism was justified. We found no more + lions; but another miracle took place for all that. We ran across the + second imbecile gerenuk, and B. collected it! These two were the only ones + we ever got within decent shot of, and they sandwiched themselves neatly + with lions. Truly, it WAS our day. + </p> + <p> + After a time we gave it up, and went back to measure and photograph our + latest prize. It proved to be a male, maneless, two inches shorter than + that killed by B., and three feet five and one half inches tall at the + shoulder. My bullet had reached the brain just over the left eye. + </p> + <p> + Now, toward sunset, we headed definitely toward camp. The long shadows and + beautiful lights of evening were falling across the hills far the other + side the Isiola. A little breeze with a touch of coolness breathed down + from distant unseen Kenia. We plodded on through the grass quite happily, + noting the different animals coming out to the cool of the evening. The + line of brush that marked the course of the Isiola came imperceptibly + nearer until we could make out the white gleam of the porters' tents and + wisps of smoke curling upward. + </p> + <p> + Then a small black mass disengaged itself from the camp and came slowly + across the prairie in our direction. As it approached we made it out to be + our Monumwezis, twenty strong. The news of the lions had reached them, and + they were coming to meet us. They were huddled in a close knot, their + heads inclined toward the centre. Each man carried upright a peeled white + wand. They moved in absolute unison and rhythm, on a slanting zigzag in + our direction: first three steps to the right, then three to the left, + with a strong stamp of the foot between. Their bodies swayed together. + Sulimani led them, dancing backward, his wand upheld. + </p> + <p> + “Sheeka!” he enunciated in a piercing half whistle. + </p> + <p> + And the swaying men responded in chorus, half hushed, rumbling, with + strong aspiration. + </p> + <p> + “Goom zoop! goom zoop!” + </p> + <p> + When fifty yards from us, however, the formation broke and they rushed us + with a yell. Our horses plunged in astonishment, and we had hard work to + prevent their bolting, small blame to 'em! The men surrounded us, shaking + our hands frantically. At once they appropriated everything we or our + gunbearers carried. One who got left otherwise insisted on having Billy's + parasol. Then we all broke for camp at full speed, yelling like fiends, + firing our revolvers in the air. It was a grand entry, and a grand + reception. The rest of the camp poured out with wild shouts. The dark + forms thronged about us, teeth flashing, arms waving. And in the + background, under the shadows of the trees were the Monumwezis, their + formation regained, close gathered, heads bent, two steps swaying to the + right-stamp! two steps swaying to the left-stamp!-the white wands + gleaming, and the rumble of their lion song rolling in an undertone: + </p> + <p> + “Goom zoop! goom zoop!” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0015" id="link2H_4_0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XV. THE LION DANCE + </h2> + <p> + We took our hot baths and sat down to supper most gratefully, for we were + tired. The long string of men, bearing each a log of wood, filed in from + the darkness to add to our pile of fuel. Saa-sita and Shamba knelt and + built the night fire. In a moment the little flame licked up through the + carefully arranged structure. We finished the meal, and the boys whisked + away the table. + </p> + <p> + Then out in the blackness beyond our little globe of light we became aware + of a dull confusion, a rustling to and fro. Through the shadows the eye + could guess at movement. The confusion steadied to a kind of rhythm, and + into the circle of the fire came the group of Monumwezis. Again they were + gathered together in a compact little mass; but now they were bent nearly + double, and were stripped to the red blankets about their waists. Before + them writhed Sulimani, close to earth, darting irregularly now to right, + now to left, wriggling, spreading his arms abroad. He was repeating over + and over two phrases; or rather the same phrase in two such different + intonations that they seemed to convey quite separate meanings. + </p> + <p> + “Ka soompeele?” he cried with a strongly appealing interrogation. + </p> + <p> + “Ka soompeele!” he repeated with the downward inflection of decided + affirmation. + </p> + <p> + And the bent men, their dark bodies gleaming in the firelight, stamping in + rhythm every third step, chorused in a deep rumbling bass: + </p> + <p> + “Goom zoop! goom zoop!” + </p> + <p> + Thus they advanced; circled between us and the fire, and withdrew to the + half darkness, where tirelessly they continued the same reiterations. + </p> + <p> + Hardly had they withdrawn when another group danced forward in their + places. These were the Kikuyus. They had discarded completely their safari + clothes, and now came forth dressed out in skins, in strips of white + cloth, with feathers, shells and various ornaments. They carried white + wands to represent spears, and they sang their tribal lion song. A soloist + delivered the main argument in a high wavering minor and was followed by a + deep rumbling emphatic chorus of repetition, strongly accented so that the + sheer rhythm of it was most pronounced: + </p> + <p> + “An-gee a Ka ga An-gee a Ka ga An-gee a Ka ga Ki ya Ka ga Ka ga an gee + ya!” + </p> + <p> + Solemnly and loftily, their eyes fixed straight before them they made the + circle of the fire, passed before our chairs, and withdrew to the half + light. There, a few paces from the stamping, crouching Monumwezis, they + continued their performance. + </p> + <p> + The next to appear were the Wakambas. These were more histrionic. They too + were unrecognizable as our porters, for they too had for the lion + discarded their work-a-day garments in favour of savage. They produced a + pantomime of the day's doings, very realistic indeed, ending with a half + dozen of dark swaying bodies swinging and shuddering in the long grass as + lions, while the “horses” wove in and out among the crouching forms, all + done to the beat of rhythm. Past us swept the hunt, and in its turn melted + into the half light. + </p> + <p> + The Kavirondos next appeared, the most fantastically caparisoned of the + lot, fine big black men, their eyes rolling with excitement. They had + captured our flag from its place before the big tent, and were rallied + close about this, dancing fantastically. Before us they leaped and stamped + and shook their spears and shouted out their full-voiced song, while the + other three tribes danced each its specialty dimly in the background. + </p> + <p> + The dance thus begun lasted for fully two hours. Each tribe took a turn + before us, only to give way to the next. We had leisure to notice + minutiae, such as the ingenious tail one of the “lions” had constructed + from a sweater. As time went on, the men worked themselves to a frenzy. + From the serried ranks every once in a while one would break forth with a + shriek to rush headlong into the fire, to beat the earth about him with + his club, to rush over to shake one of us violently by the hand, or even + to seize one of our feet between his two palms. Then with equal abruptness + back he darted to regain his place among the dancers. Wilder and wilder + became the movements, higher rose the voices. The mock lion hunt grew more + realistic, and the slaughter on both sides something tremendous. Lower and + lower crouched the Monumwezi, drawing apart with their deep “goom”; + drawing suddenly to a common centre with the sharp “zoop!” Only the + Kikuyus held their lofty bearing as they rolled forth their chant, but the + mounting excitement showed in their tense muscles and the rolling of their + eyes. The sweat glistened on naked black and bronze bodies. Among the + Monumwezi to my astonishment I saw Memba Sasa, stripped like the rest, and + dancing with all abandon. The firelight leaped high among the logs that + eager hands cast on it; and the shadows it threw from the swirling, + leaping figures wavered out into a great, calm darkness. + </p> + <p> + The night guard understood a little of the native languages, so he stood + behind our chairs and told us in Swahili the meaning of some of the + repeated phrases. + </p> + <p> + “This has been a glorious day; few safaris have had so glorious a day.” + </p> + <p> + “The masters looked upon the fierce lions and did not run away.” + </p> + <p> + “Brave men without other weapons will nevertheless kill with a knife.” + </p> + <p> + “The masters' mothers must be brave women, the masters are so brave.” + </p> + <p> + “The white woman went hunting, and so were many lions killed.” + </p> + <p> + The last one pleased Billy. She felt that at last she was appreciated. + </p> + <p> + We sat there spellbound by the weird savagery of the spectacle-the great + licking fire, the dancing, barbaric figures, the rise and fall of the + rhythm, the dust and shuffle, the ebb and flow of the dance, the dim, + half-guessed groups swaying in the darkness-and overhead the calm tropic + night. + </p> + <p> + At last, fairly exhausted, they stopped. Some one gave a signal. The men + all gathered in one group, uttered a final yell, very like a cheer, and + dispersed. + </p> + <p> + We called up the heroes of the day-Fundi and his companion-and made a + little speech, and bestowed appropriate reward. Then we turned in. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0016" id="link2H_4_0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XVI. FUNDI + </h2> + <p> + Fundi, as I have suggested, was built very much on the lines of the + marabout stork. He was about twenty years old, carried himself very erect, + and looked one straight in the eye. His total assets when he came to us + were a pair of raggedy white breeches, very baggy, and an old mesh + undershirt, ditto ditto. To this we added a jersey, a red blanket, and a + water bottle. At the first opportunity he constructed himself a pair of + rawhide sandals. + </p> + <p> + Throughout the first part of the trip he had applied himself to business + and carried his load. He never made trouble. Then he and his companion saw + five lions; and the chance Fundi had evidently long been awaiting came to + his hand. He ran himself almost into coma, exhibited himself game, and so + fell under our especial and distinguished notice. After participating + whole-heartedly in the lion dance he and his companion were singled out + for Our Distinguished Favour, to the extent of five rupees per. Thus far + Fundi's history reads just like the history of any ordinary Captain of + Industry. + </p> + <p> + Next morning, after the interesting ceremony of rewarding the worthy, we + moved on to a new camp. When the line-up was called for, lo! there stood + Fundi, without a load, but holding firmly my double-barrelled rifle. + Evidently he had seized the chance of favour-and the rifle-and intended to + be no longer a porter but a second gunbearer. + </p> + <p> + This looked interesting, so we said nothing. Fundi marched the day through + very proudly. At evening he deposited the rifle in the proper place, and + set to work with a will at raising the big tent. + </p> + <p> + The day following he tried it again. It worked. The third day he marched + deliberately up past the syce to take his place near me. And the fourth + day, as we were going hunting, Fundi calmly fell in with the rest. Nothing + had been said, but Fundi had definitely grasped his chance to rise from + the ranks. In this he differed from his companion in glory. That worthy + citizen pocketed his five rupees and was never heard from again; I do not + even remember his name nor how he looked. + </p> + <p> + I killed a buck of some sort, and Memba Sasa, as usual, stepped forward to + attend to the trophy. But I stopped him. + </p> + <p> + “Fundi,” said I, “if you are a gunbearer, prepare this beast.” + </p> + <p> + He stepped up confidently and set to work. I watched him closely. He did + it very well, without awkwardness, though he made one or two minor + mistakes in method. + </p> + <p> + “Have you done this before?” I inquired. + </p> + <p> + “No, bwana.” + </p> + <p> + “How did you learn to do it?” + </p> + <p> + “I have watched the gunbearers when I was a porter bringing in meat.” * + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Except in the greatest emergencies a gunbearer would never + think of carrying any sort of a burden. +</pre> + <p> + This was pleasing, but it would never do, at this stage of the game, to + let him think so, neither on his own account nor that of the real + gunbearers. + </p> + <p> + “You will bring in meat today also,” said I, for I was indeed a little + shorthanded, “and you will learn how to make the top incision straighter.” + </p> + <p> + When we had reached camp I handed him the Springfield. + </p> + <p> + “Clean this,” I told him. + </p> + <p> + He departed with it, returning it after a time for my inspection. It + looked all right. I catechized him on the method he had employed-for high + velocities require very especial treatment-and found him letter perfect. + </p> + <p> + “You learned this also by watching?” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, bwana, I watched the gunbearers by the fire, evenings.” + </p> + <p> + Evidently Fundi had been preparing for his chance. + </p> + <p> + Next day, as he walked alongside, I noticed that he had not removed the + leather cap, or sight protector, that covers the end of the rifle and is + fastened on by a leather thong. Immediately I called a halt. + </p> + <p> + “Fundi,” said I, “do you know that the cover should be in your pocket? + Suppose a rhinoceros jumps up very near at hand: how can you get time to + unlace the thong and hand me the rifle?” + </p> + <p> + He thrust the rifle at me suddenly. In some magical fashion the sight + cover had disappeared! + </p> + <p> + “I have thought of this,” said he, “and I have tied the thong, so, in + order that it come away with one pull; and I snatch it off, so, with my + left hand while I am giving you the gun with my right hand. It seemed good + to keep the cover on, for there are many branches, and the sight is very + easy to injure.” + </p> + <p> + Of course this was good sense, and most ingenious; Fundi bade fair to be + quite a boy, but the native African is very easily spoiled. Therefore, + although my inclination was strongly to praise him, I did nothing of the + sort. + </p> + <p> + “A gunbearer carries the gun away from the branches,” was my only comment. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after occurred an incident by way of deeper test. We were all + riding rather idly along the easy slope below the foothills. The grass was + short, so we thought we could see easily everything there was to be seen; + but, as we passed some thirty yards from a small tree, an unexpected and + unnecessary rhinoceros rose from an equally unexpected and unnecessary + green hollow beneath the tree, and charged us. He made straight for Billy. + Her mule, panic-stricken, froze with terror in spite of Billy's attack + with a parasol. I spurred my own animal between her and the charging + brute, with some vague idea of slipping off the other side as the rhino + struck. F. and B. leaped from their own animals, and F., with a little.28 + calibre rifle, took a hasty shot at the big brute. Now, of course a.28 + calibre rifle would hardly injure a rhino, but the bullet happened to + catch his right shoulder just as he was about to come down on his right + foot. The shock tripped him up as neatly as though he had been upset by a + rope. At the same instant Billy's mule came to its senses and bolted, + whereupon I too jumped off. The whole thing took about two finger snaps of + time. At the instant I hit the ground, Fundi passed the double rifle + across the horse's back to me. + </p> + <p> + Note two things to the credit of Fundi: in the first place, he had not + bolted; in the second place, instead of running up to the left side of my + mount and perhaps colliding with and certainly confusing me, he had come + up on the right side and passed the rifle to me ACROSS the horse. I do not + know whether or not he had figured this out beforehand, but it was + cleverly done. + </p> + <p> + The rhinoceros rolled over and over, like a shot rabbit, kicked for a + moment, and came to his feet. We were now all ready for him, in battle + array, but he had evidently had enough. He turned at right angles and + trotted off, apparently-and probably-none the worse for the little bullet + in his shoulder. + </p> + <p> + Fundi now began acquiring things that he supposed befitting to his + dignity. The first of these matters was a faded fez, in which he stuck a + long feather. From that he progressed in worldly wealth. How he got it + all, on what credit, or with what hypnotic power, I do not know. Probably + he hypothecated his wages, certainly he had his five rupees. + </p> + <p> + At any rate he started out with a ragged undershirt and a pair of white, + baggy breeches. He entered Nairobi at the end of the trip with a cap, a + neat khaki shirt, two water bottles, a cartridge belt, a sash with a + tassel, a pair of spiral puttees, an old pair of shoes, and a personal + private small boy, picked up en route from some of the savage tribes, to + carry his cooking pot, make his fires, draw his water, and generally + perform his lordly behests. This was indeed + “more-than-oriental-splendour!” + </p> + <p> + From now on Fundi considered himself my second gunbearer. I had no use for + him, but Fundi's development interested me, and I wanted to give him a + chance. His main fault at first was eagerness. He had to be rapped pretty + sharply and a good number of times before he discovered that he really + must walk in the rear. His habit of calling my attention to perfectly + obvious things I cured by liberal sarcasm. His intense desire to take his + own line as perhaps opposed to mine when we were casting about on trail, I + abated kindly but firmly with the toe of my boot. His evident but mistaken + tendency to consider himself on an equality with Memba Sasa we both + squelched by giving him the hard and dirty work to do. But his faults were + never those of voluntary omission, and he came on surprisingly; in fact so + surprisingly that he began to get quite cocky over it. Not that he was + ever in the least aggressive or disrespectful or neglectful-it would have + been easy to deal with that sort of thing-but he carried his head pretty + high, and evidently began to have mental reservations. Fundi needed a + little wholesome discipline. He was forgetting his porter days, and was + rapidly coming to consider himself a full-fledged gunbearer. + </p> + <p> + The occasion soon arose. We were returning from a buffalo hunt and ran + across two rhinoceroses, one of which carried a splendid horn. B. wanted a + well developed specimen very much, so we took this chance. The approach + was easy enough, and at seventy yards or so B. knocked her flat with a + bullet from his.465 Holland. The beast was immediately afoot, but was as + promptly smothered by shots from us all. So far the affair was very + simple, but now came complication. The second rhinoceros refused to leave. + We did not want to kill it, so we spent a lot of time and pains shooing it + away. We showered rocks and clods of earth in his direction; we yelled + sharply and whistled shrilly. The brute faced here and there, his pig eyes + blinking, his snout upraised, trying to locate us, and declining to budge. + At length he gave us up as hopeless, and trotted away slowly. We let him + go, and when we thought he had quite departed, we approached to examine + B.'s trophy. + </p> + <p> + Whereupon the other craftily returned; and charged us, snorting like an + engine blowing off steam. This was a genuine premeditated charge, as + opposed to a blind rush, and it is offered as a good example of the sort. + </p> + <p> + The rhinoceros had come fairly close before we got into action. He headed + straight for F. and myself, with B. a little to one side. Things happened + very quickly. F. and I each planted a heavy bullet in his head; while B. + sent a lighter Winchester bullet into the ribs. The rhino went down in a + heap eleven yards away, and one of us promptly shot him in the spine to + finish him. + </p> + <p> + Personally I was entirely concentrated in the matter at hand-as is always + the way in crises requiring action-and got very few impressions from + anything outside. Nevertheless I imagined, subconsciously that I had heard + four shots. F. and B. disclaimed more than one apiece, so I concluded + myself mistaken, exchanged my heavy rifle with Fundi for the lighter + Winchester, and we started for camp, leaving all the boys to attend to the + dead rhinos. At camp I threw down the lever of my Winchester-and drew out + an exploded shell! + </p> + <p> + Here was a double crime on Fundi's part. In the first place, he had fired + the gun, a thing no bearer is supposed ever to do in any circumstances + short of the disarmament and actual mauling of his master. Naturally this + is so, for the white man must be able in an emergency to depend ABSOLUTELY + on his second gun being loaded and ready for his need. In the second + place, Fundi had given me an empty rifle to carry home. Such a weapon is + worse than none in case of trouble; at least I could have gone up a tree + in the latter case. I would have looked sweet snapping that old cartridge + at anything dangerous! + </p> + <p> + Therefore after supper we stationed ourselves in a row before the fire, + seated in our canvas chairs, and with due formality sent word that we + wanted all the gunbearers. They came and stood before us. Memba Sasa + erect, military, compact, looking us straight in the eye; Mavrouki + slightly bent forward, his face alive with the little crafty, calculating + smile peculiar to him; Simba, tall and suave, standing with much social + ease; and Fundi, a trifle frightened, but uncertain as to whether or not + he had been found out. + </p> + <p> + We stated the matter in a few words. + </p> + <p> + “Gunbearers, this man Fundi, when the rhinoceros charged, fired Winchi. + Was this the work of a gunbearer?” + </p> + <p> + The three seasoned men looked at each other with shocked astonishment that + such depravity could exist. + </p> + <p> + “And being frightened, he gave back Winchi with the exploded cartridge in + her. Was that the work of a gunbearer?” + </p> + <p> + “No, bwana,” said Fundi humbly. + </p> + <p> + “You, the gunbearers, have been called because we wish to know what should + be done with this man Fundi.” + </p> + <p> + It should be here explained that it is not customary to kiboko, or flog, + men of the gunbearer class. They respect themselves and their calling, and + would never stand that sort of punishment. When one blunders, a sarcastic + scolding is generally sufficient; a more serious fault may be punished on + the spot by the white man's fist; or a really bad dereliction may cause + the man's instant degradation from the post. With this in mind we had + called the council of gunbearers. Memba Sasa spoke. + </p> + <p> + “Bwana,” said he, “this man is not a true gunbearer. He is no longer a + true porter. He carries a gun in the field, like a gunbearer; and he knows + much of the duty of gunbearer. Also he does not run away nor climb trees. + But he carries in the meat; and he is not a real gunbearer. He is half + porter and half gunbearer.” + </p> + <p> + “What punishment shall he have?” + </p> + <p> + “Kiboko,” said they. + </p> + <p> + “Thank you. Bass!” + </p> + <p> + They went, leaving Fundi. We surveyed him, quietly. + </p> + <p> + “You a gunbearer!” said we at last. “Memba Sasa says you are half + gunbearer. He was wrong. You are all porter; and you know no more than + they do. It is in our mind to put you back to carrying a load. If you do + not wish to taste the kiboko, you can take a load to-morrow.” + </p> + <p> + “The kiboko, bwana,” pleaded Fundi, very abashed and humble. + </p> + <p> + “Furthermore,” we added crushingly, “you did not even hit the rhinoceros!” + </p> + <p> + So with all ceremony he got the kiboko. The incident did him a lot of + good, and toned down his exuberance somewhat. Nevertheless he still + required a good deal of training, just as does a promising bird dog in its + first season. Generally his faults were of over-eagerness. Indeed, once he + got me thoroughly angry in face of another rhinoceros by dancing just out + of reach with the heavy rifle, instead of sticking close to me where I + could get at him. I temporarily forgot the rhino, and advanced on Fundi + with the full intention of knocking his fool head off. Whereupon this six + feet something of most superb and insolent pride wilted down to a small + boy with his elbow before his face. + </p> + <p> + “Don't hit, bwana! Don't hit!” he begged. + </p> + <p> + The whole thing was so comical, especially with Memba Sasa standing by + virtuous and scornful, that I had hard work to keep from laughing. + Fortunately the rhinoceros behaved himself. + </p> + <p> + The proud moment of Fundi's life was when safari entered Nairobi at the + end of the first expedition. He had gone forth with a load on his head, + rags on his back, and his only glory was the self-assumed one of the name + he had taken-Fundi, the Expert. He returned carrying a rifle, rigged from + top to toe in new garments and fancy accoutrements, followed by a toro, or + small boy, he had bought from some of the savage tribes to carry his + blanket and cooking pot for him. To the friends who darted out to the line + of march, he was gracious, but he held his head high, and had no time for + mere persiflage. + </p> + <p> + I did not take Fundi on my second expedition, for I had no real use for a + second gunbearer. Several times subsequently I saw him on the streets of + Nairobi. Always he came up to greet me, and ask solicitously if I would + not give him a job. This I was unable to do. When we paid off, I had made + an addition to his porter's wages, and had written him a chit. This said + that the boy had the makings of a gunbearer with further training. It + would have been unfair to possible white employers to have said more. + Fundi was, when I left the country, precisely in the position of any young + man who tries to rise in the world. He would not again take a load as + porter, and he was not yet skilled enough or known enough to pick up more + than stray jobs as gunbearer. Before him was struggle and hard times, with + a certainty of a highly considered profession if he won through. Behind + him was steady work without outlets for ambition. It was distinctly up to + him to prove whether he had done well to reach for ambition, or whether he + would have done better in contentment with his old lot. And that is in + essence a good deal like our own world isn't it? + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0017" id="link2H_4_0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XVII. NATIVES + </h2> + <p> + Up to this time, save for a few Masai at the very beginning of our trip, + we had seen no natives at all. Only lately, the night of the lion dance, + one of the Wanderobo-the forest hunters-had drifted in to tell us of + buffalo and to get some meat. He was a simple soul, small and capable, of + a beautiful red-brown, with his hair done up in a tight, short queue. He + wore three skewers about six inches long thrust through each of his ears, + three strings of blue beads on his neck, a bracelet tight around his upper + arm, a bangle around his ankle, a pair of rawhide sandals, and about a + half yard of cotton cloth which he hung from one shoulder. As weapons he + carried a round-headed, heavy club, or runga, and a long-bladed spear. He + led us to buffalo, accepted a thirty-three cent blanket, and made fire + with two sticks in about thirty seconds. The only other evidences of human + life we had come across were a few beehives suspended in the trees. These + were logs, bored hollow and stopped at either end. Some of them were very + quaintly carved. They hung in the trees like strange fruits. + </p> + <p> + Now, however, after leaving the Isiola, we were to quit the game country + and for days travel among the swarming millions of the jungle. + </p> + <p> + A few preliminary and entirely random observations may be permitted me by + way of clearing the ground for a conception of these people. These + observations do not pretend to be ethnological, nor even common logical. + </p> + <p> + The first thing for an American to realize is that our own negro + population came mainly from the West Coast, and differed utterly from + these peoples of the highlands in the East. Therefore one must first of + all get rid of the mental image of our own negro “dressed up” in savage + garb. Many of these tribes are not negro at all-the Somalis, the Nandi, + and the Masai, for example-while others belong to the negroid and Nilotic + races. Their colour is general cast more on the red-bronze than the black, + though the Kavirondos and some others are black enough. The texture of + their skin is very satiny and wonderful. This perfection is probably due + to the constant anointing of the body with oils of various sorts. As a + usual thing they are a fine lot physically. The southern Masai will + average between six and seven feet in height, and are almost invariably + well built. Of most tribes the physical development is remarkably strong + and graceful; and a great many of the women will display a rounded, firm, + high-breasted physique in marked contrast to the blacks of the lowlands. + Of the different tribes possibly the Kikuyus are apt to count the most + weakly and spindly examples: though some of these people, perhaps a + majority, are well made. + </p> + <p> + Furthermore, the native differentiates himself still further in impression + from our negro in his carriage and the mental attitude that lies behind + it. Our people are trying to pattern themselves on white men, and succeed + in giving a more or less shambling imitation thereof. The native has + standards, ideas, and ideals that perfectly satisfy him, and that + antedated the white man's coming by thousands of years. The consciousness + of this reflects itself in his outward bearing. He does not shuffle; he is + not either obsequious or impudent. Even when he acknowledges the white + man's divinity and pays it appropriate respect, he does not lose the poise + of his own well-worked-out attitude toward life and toward himself. + </p> + <p> + We are fond of calling these people primitive. In the world's standard of + measurement they are primitive, very primitive indeed. But ordinarily by + that term, we mean also undeveloped, embryonic. In that sense we are + wrong. Instead of being at the very dawn of human development, these + people are at the end-as far as they themselves are concerned. The + original racial impulse that started them down the years toward + development has fulfilled its duty and spent its force. They have worked + out all their problems, established all their customs, arranged the world + and its phenomena in a philosophy to their complete satisfaction. They + have lived, ethnologists tell us, for thousands, perhaps hundreds of + thousands of years, just as we find them to-day. From our standpoint that + is in a hopeless intellectual darkness, for they know absolutely nothing + of the most elementary subjects of knowledge. From their standpoint, + however, they have reached the highest DESIRABLE pinnacle of human + development. Nothing remains to be changed. Their customs, religions, and + duties have been worked out and immutably established long ago; and nobody + dreams of questioning either their wisdom or their imperative necessity. + They are the conservatives of the world. + </p> + <p> + Nor must we conclude-looking at them with the eyes of our own + civilization-that the savage is, from his standpoint, lazy and idle. His + life is laid out more rigidly than ours will be for a great many thousands + of years. From childhood to old age he performs his every act in accord + with prohibitions and requirements. He must remember them all; for + ignorance does not divert consequences. He must observe them all; in pain + of terrible punishments. For example, never may he cultivate on the site + of a grave; and the plants that spring up from it must never be cut.* He + must make certain complicated offerings before venturing to harvest a + crop. On crossing the first stream of a journey he must touch his lips + with the end of his wetted bow, wade across, drop a stone on the far side, + and then drink. If he cuts his nails, he must throw the parings into a + thicket. If he drink from a stream, and also cross it, he must eject a + mouthful of water back into the stream. He must be particularly careful + not to look his mother-in-law in the face. Hundreds of omens by the manner + of their happening may modify actions, as, on what side of the road a + woodpecker calls, or in which direction a hyena or jackal crosses the + path, how the ground hornbill flies or alights, and the like. He must + notice these things, and change his plans according to their occurrence. + If he does not notice them, they exercise their influence just the same. + This does not encourage a distrait mental attitude. Also it goes far to + explain otherwise unexplainable visitations. Truly, as Hobley says in his + unexcelled work on the A-Kamba, “the life of a savage native is a complex + matter, and he is hedged round by all sorts of rules and prohibitions, the + infringement of which will probably cause his death, if only by the + intense belief he has in the rules which guide his life.” + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Customs are not universal among the different tribes. I am + merely illustrating. +</pre> + <p> + For these rules and customs he never attempts to give a reason. They are; + and that is all there is to it. A mere statement: “This is the custom” + settles the matter finally. There is no necessity, nor passing thought + even, of finding any logical cause. The matter was worked out in the + mental evolution of remote ancestors. At that time, perhaps, insurgent and + Standpatter, Conservative and Radical fought out the questions of the day, + and the Muckrakers swung by their tails and chattered about it. Those days + are all long since over. The questions of the world are settled forever. + The people have passed through the struggles of their formative period to + the ultimate highest perfection of adjustment to material and spiritual + environment of which they were capable under the influence of their + original racial force. + </p> + <p> + Parenthetically, it is now a question whether or not an added impulse can + be communicated from without. Such an impulse must (a) unsettle all the + old beliefs, (b) inspire an era of skepticism, (c) reintroduce the old + struggle of ideas between the Insurgent and the Standpatter, and Radical + and the Conservative, (d) in the meantime furnish, from the older + civilization, materials, both in the thought-world and in the + object-world, for building slowly a new set of customs more closely + approximating those we are building for ourselves. This is a longer and + slower and more complicated affair than teaching the native to wear + clothes and sing hymns; or to build houses and drink gin; but it is what + must be accomplished step by step before the African peoples are really + civilized. I, personally, do not think it can be done. + </p> + <p> + Now having, a hundred thousand years or so ago, worked out the highest + good of the human race, according to them, what must they say to + themselves and what must their attitude be when the white man has come and + has unrolled his carpet of wonderful tricks? The dilemma is evident. + Either we, as black men, must admit that our hundred-thousand-year-old + ideas as to what constitutes the highest type of human relation to + environment is all wrong, or else we must evolve a new attitude toward + this new phenomena. It is human nature to do the latter. Therefore the + native has not abandoned his old gods; nor has he adopted a new. He still + believes firmly that his way is the best way of doing things, but he + acknowledges the Superman. + </p> + <p> + To the Superman, with all races, anything is possible. Only our Superman + is an idea, and ideal. The native has his Superman before him in the + actual flesh. + </p> + <p> + We will suppose that our own Superman has appeared among us, accomplishing + things that apparently contravene all our established tenets of skill, of + intellect, of possibility. It will be readily acknowledged that such an + individual would at first create some astonishment. He wanders into a + crowded hotel lobby, let us say, evidently with the desire of going to the + bar. Instead of pushing laboriously through the crowd, he floats just + above their heads, gets his drink, and floats out again! That is + levitation, and is probably just as simple to him as striking a match is + to you and me. After we get thoroughly accustomed to him and his life, we + are no longer vastly astonished, though always interested, at the various + manifestations of his extraordinary powers. We go right along using the + marvellous wireless, aeroplanes, motor cars, constructive machinery, and + the like that make us confident-justly, of course-in that we are about the + smartest lot of people on earth. And if we see red, white, and blue + streamers of light crossing the zenith at noon, we do not manifest any + very profound amazement. “There's that confounded Superman again,” we + mutter, if we happen to be busy. “I wonder what stunt he's going to do + now!” + </p> + <p> + A consideration of the above beautiful fable may go a little way toward + explaining the supposed native stolidity in the face of the white man's + wonders. A few years ago some misguided person brought a balloon to + Nairobi. The balloon interested the white people a lot, but everybody was + chiefly occupied wondering what the natives would do when they saw THAT! + The natives did not do anything. They gathered in large numbers, and most + interestedly watched it go up, and then went home again. But they were not + stricken with wonder to any great extent. So also with locomotives, motor + cars, telephones, phonographs-any of our modern ingenuities. The native is + pleased and entertained, but not astonished. “Stupid creature, no + imagination,” say we, because our pride in showing off is a wee bit hurt. + </p> + <p> + Why should he be astonished? His mental revolution took place when he saw + the first match struck. It is manifestly impossible for any one to make + fire instantaneously by rubbing one small stick. When for the first time + he saw it done, he was indeed vastly astounded. The immutable had been + changed. The law had been transcended. The impossible had been + accomplished. And then, as logical sequence, his mind completed the + syllogism. If the white man can do this impossibility, why not all the + rest? To defy the laws of nature by flying in the air or forcing great + masses of iron to transport one, is no more wonderful than to defy them by + striking a light. Since the white man can provedly do one, what earthly + reason exists why he should not do anything else that hits his fancy? + There is nothing to get astonished at. + </p> + <p> + This does not necessarily mean that the native looks on the white man as a + god. On the contrary, your African is very shrewd in the reading of + character. But indubitably white men possess great magic, uncertain in its + extent. + </p> + <p> + That is as far as I should care to go, without much deeper acquaintance, + into the attitude of the native mind toward the whites. A superficial + study of it, beyond the general principals I have enunciated, discloses + many strange contradictions. The native respects the white man's warlike + skill, he respects his physical prowess, he certainly acknowledges tacitly + his moral superiority in the right to command. In case of dispute he likes + the white man's adjudication; in case of illness the man's medicine; in + case of trouble the white man's sustaining hand. Yet he almost never + attempts to copy the white man's appearance or ways of doing things. His + own savage customs and habits he fulfils with as much pride as ever in + their eternal fitness. Once I was badgering Memba Sasa, asking him whether + he thought the white skin or the black skin the more ornamental. “You are + not white,” he retorted at last. “That,” pointing to a leaf of my + notebook, “is white. You are red. I do not like the looks of red people.” + </p> + <p> + They call our speech the “snake language,” because of its hissing sound. + Once this is brought to your attention, indeed, you cannot help noticing + the superabundance of the sibilants. + </p> + <p> + A queer melange the pigeonholes of an African's brain must contain-fear + and respect, strongly mingled with clear estimate of intrinsic character + of individuals and a satisfaction with his own standards. + </p> + <p> + Nor, I think, do we realize sufficiently the actual fundamental + differences between the African and our peoples. Physically they must be + in many ways as different from our selves as though they actually belonged + to a different species. The Masai are a fine big race, enduring, well + developed and efficient. They live exclusively on cow's milk mixed with + blood; no meat, no fruit, no vegetables, no grain; just that and nothing + more. Obviously they must differ from us most radically, or else all our + dietetic theories are wrong. It is a well-known fact that any native + requires a triple dose of white man's medicine. Furthermore a native's + sensitiveness to pain is very much less than the white man's. This is + indubitable. For example, the Wakamba file-or, rather, chip, by means of a + small chisel-all their front teeth down to needle points, When these + happen to fall out, the warrior substitutes an artificial tooth which he + drives down into the socket. If the savage got the same effects from such + a performance that a white man's dental system would arouse, even “savage + stoicism” would hardly do him much good. There is nothing to be gained by + multiplying examples. Every African traveller can recall a thousand. + </p> + <p> + Incidentally, and by the way, I want to add to the milk-and-blood joke on + dietetics another on the physical culturists. We are all familiar with the + wails over the loss of our toe nails. You know what I mean; they run + somewhat like this: shoes are the curse of civilization; if we wear them + much longer we shall not only lose the intended use of our feet, but we + shall lose our toe nails as well; the savage man, etc., etc., etc. Now I + saw a great many of said savage men in Africa, and I got much interested + in their toe nails, because I soon found that our own civilized + “imprisoned” toe nails were very much better developed. In fact, a large + number of the free and untramelled savages have hardly any toe nails at + all! Whether this upsets a theory, nullifies a sentimental protest, or + merely stands as an exception, I should not dare guess. But the fact is + indubitable. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0018" id="link2H_4_0018"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XVIII. IN THE JUNGLE + </h2> + <p> + (a) THE MARCH TO MERU + </p> + <p> + Now, one day we left the Isiola River and cut across on a long upward + slant to the left. In a very short time we had left the plains, and were + adrift in an ocean of brown grass that concealed all but the bobbing loads + atop the safari, and over which we could only see when mounted. It was + glorious feed, apparently, but it contained very few animals for all that. + An animal could without doubt wax fat and sleek therein: but only to + furnish light and salutary meals to beasts of prey. Long grass makes easy + stalking. We saw a few ostriches, some giraffe, and three or four singly + adventurous oryx. The ripening grasses were softer than a rippling field + grain; and even more beautiful in their umber and browns. Although + apparently we travelled a level, nevertheless in the extreme distance the + plains of our hunting were dropping below, and the far off mountains were + slowly rising above the horizon. On the other side were two very green + hills, looking nearly straight up and down, and through a cleft the + splintered snow-clad summit of Mt. Kenia. + </p> + <p> + At length this gentle foothill slope broke over into rougher country. + Then, in the pass, we came upon many parallel beaten paths, wider and + straighter than the game trails-native tracks. That night we camped in a + small, round valley under some glorious trees, with green grass around us; + a refreshing contrast after the desert brown. In the distance ahead stood + a big hill, and at its base we could make out amid the tree-green, the + straight slim smoke of many fires and the threads of many roads. + </p> + <p> + We began our next morning's march early, and we dropped over the hill into + a wide, cultivated valley. Fields of grain, mostly rape, were planted + irregularly among big scattered trees. The morning air, warming under the + sun, was as yet still, and carried sound well. The cooing, chattering and + calling of thousands of birds mingled with shouts and the clapping + together of pieces of wood. As we came closer we saw that every so often + scaffolds had been erected overlooking the grain, and on these scaffolds + naked boys danced and yelled and worked clappers to scare the birds from + the crops. They seemed to put a great deal of rigour into the job; whether + from natural enthusiasm or efficient direful supervision I could not say. + Certainly they must have worked in watches, however; no human being could + keep up that row continuously for a single day, let alone the whole season + of ripening grain. As we passed they fell silent and stared their fill. + </p> + <p> + On the banks of a boggy little stream that we had to flounder across we + came on a gentleman and lady travelling. They were a tall, well formed + pair, mahogany in colour, with the open, pleasant expression of most of + these jungle peoples. The man wore a string around his waist into which + was thrust a small leafy branch; the woman had on a beautiful skirt made + by halving a banana leaf, using the stem as belt, and letting the leaf + part hang down as a skirt. Shortly after meeting these people we turned + sharp to the right on a well beaten road. + </p> + <p> + For nearly two weeks we were to follow this road, so it may be as well to + get an idea of it. Its course was a segment of about a sixth of the circle + of Kenia's foothills. With Kenia itself as a centre, this road swung among + the lower elevations about the base of that great mountain. Its course was + mainly down and up hundreds of the canyons radiating from the main peak, + and over the ridges between them. No sooner were we down, than we had to + climb up; and no sooner were we up, than once more down we had to plunge. + At times, however, we crossed considerable plateaus. Most of this country + was dense jungle, so dense that we could not see on either side more than + fifteen or twenty feet. Occasionally, atop the ridges, however, we would + come upon small open parks. In these jungles live millions of human + beings. + </p> + <p> + At once, as soon as we had turned into the main road, we began to meet + people. In the grain fields of the valley we saw only the elevated boys, + and a few men engaged in weaving a little house perched on stilts. We came + across some of these little houses all completed, with conical roofs. They + were evidently used for granaries. As we mounted the slope on the other + side, however, the trees closed in, and we found ourselves marching down + the narrow aisle of the jungle itself. + </p> + <p> + It was a dense and beautiful jungle, with very tall trees and the deepest + shade; and the impenetrable tangle to the edge of the track. Among the + trees were the broad leaves of bananas and palms, the fling of leafy + vines. Over the track these leaned, so that we rode through splashing and + mottling shade. Nothing could have seemed wilder than this apparently + impenetrable and yet we had ridden but a short distance before we realized + that we were in fact passing through cultivated land. It was, again, only + a difference in terms. Native cultivation in this district rarely consists + of clearing land and planting crops in due order, but in leaving the + forest proper as it is, and in planting foodstuffs haphazard wherever a + tiny space can be made for even three hills of corn or a single banana. + Thus they add to rather than subtract from the typical density of the + jungle. At first, we found, it took some practice to tell a farm when we + saw it. + </p> + <p> + From the track narrow little paths wound immediately out of sight. + Sometimes we saw a wisp of smoke rising above the undergrowth and eddying + in the tops of the trees. Long vine ropes swung from point to point, hung + at intervals with such matters as feathers, bones, miniature shields, + carved sticks, shells and clappers: either as magic or to keep off the + birds. From either side the track we were conscious always of bright black + eyes watching us. Sometimes we caught a glimpse of their owners crouched + in the bush, concealed behind banana leaves, motionless and straight + against a tree trunk. When they saw themselves observed they vanished + without a sound. + </p> + <p> + The upper air was musical with birds, and bright with the flutter of their + wings. Rarely did we see them long enough to catch a fair idea of their + size and shape. They flashed from shade to shade, leaving only an + impression of brilliant colour. There were some exceptions: as the + widower-bird, dressed all in black, with long trailing wing-plumes of + which he seemed very proud; and the various sorts of green pigeons and + parrots. There were many flowering shrubs and trees, and the air was laden + with perfume. Strange, too, it seemed to see tall trees with leaves three + or four feet long and half as many wide. + </p> + <p> + We were riding a mile or so ahead of the safari. At first we were + accompanied only by our gunbearers and syces. Before long, however, we + began to accumulate a following. + </p> + <p> + This consisted at first of a very wonderful young man, probably a chief's + son. He carried a long bright spear, wore a short sword thrust through a + girdle, had his hair done in three wrapped queues, one over each temple + and one behind, and was generally brought to a high state of polish by + means of red earth and oil. About his knee he wore a little bell that + jingled pleasingly at every step. From one shoulder hung a goat-skin cloak + embroidered with steel beads. A small package neatly done up in leaves + probably contained his lunch. He teetered along with a mincing up and down + step, every movement, and the expression of his face displaying a fatuous + self-satisfaction. When we looked back again this youth had magically + become two. Then appeared two women and a white goat. All except the goat + were dressed for visiting, with long chains of beads, bracelets and + anklets, and heavy ornaments in the distended ear lobes. The manner people + sprang apparently out of the ground was very disconcerting. It was a good + deal like those fairy-story moving pictures where a wave of the wand + produces beautiful ladies. By half an hour we had acquired a long + retinue-young warriors, old men, women and innumerable children. After we + had passed, the new recruits stepped quietly from the shadow of the jungle + and fell in. Every one with nothing much to do evidently made up his mind + he might as well go to Meru now as any other time. + </p> + <p> + Also we met a great number of people going in the other direction. Women + were bearing loads of yams. Chiefs' sons minced along, their spears poised + in their left hands at just the proper angle, their bangles jingling, + their right hands carried raised in a most affected manner. Their social + ease was remarkable, especially in contrast with the awkwardness of the + lower poverty-stricken or menial castes. The latter drew one side to let + us pass, and stared. Our chiefs' sons, on the other hand, stepped + springingly and beamingly forward; spat carefully in their hands (we did + the same); shook hands all down the line: exchanged a long-drawn + “moo-o-ga!” with each of us; and departed at the same springing rapid + gait. The ordinary warriors greeted us, but did not offer to shake hands, + thank goodness! There were a great many of them. Across the valleys and + through the open spaces the sun, as it struck down the trail, was always + flashing back from distant spears. Twice we met flocks of sheep being + moved from one point to another. Three or four herdsmen and innumerable + small boys seemed to be in charge. Occasionally we met a real chief or + headman of a village, distinguished by the fact that he or a servant + carried a small wooden stool. With these dignitaries we always stopped to + exchange friendly words. + </p> + <p> + These comprised the travelling public. The resident public also showed + itself quite in evidence. Once our retainers had become sufficiently + numerous to inspire confidence, the jungle people no longer hid. On the + contrary, they came out to the very edge of the track to exchange + greetings. They were very good-natured, exceedingly well-formed, and quite + jocular with our boys. Especially did our suave and elegant Simba sparkle. + This resident public, called from its daily labours and duties, did not + always show as gaudy a make-up as did the dressed-up travelling public. + Banana leaves were popular wear, and seemed to us at once pretty and + fresh. To be sure some had rather withered away; but even wool will + shrink. We saw some grass skirts, like the Sunday-school pictures. + </p> + <p> + At noon we stopped under a tree by a little stream for lunch. Before long + a dozen women were lined up in front of us staring at Billy with all their + might. She nodded and smiled at them. Thereupon they sent one of their + number away. The messenger returned after a few moments carrying a bunch + of the small eating bananas which she laid at our feet. Billy fished some + beads out of her saddle bags, and presented them. Friendly relations + having been thus fully established, two or three of the women scurried + hastily away, to return a few moments later each with her small child. To + these infants they carefully and earnestly pointed out Billy and her + wonders, talking in a tongue unknown to us. The admonition undoubtedly ran + something like this: + </p> + <p> + “Now, my child, look well at this: for when you get to be a very old + person you will be able to look back at the day when with your own eyes + you beheld a white woman. See all the strange things she wears-and HASN'T + she a funny face?” + </p> + <p> + We offered these bung-eyed and totally naked youngsters various bribes in + the way of beads, the tinfoil from chocolate, and even a small piece of + the chocolate itself. Most of them howled and hid their faces against + their mothers. The mothers looked scandalized, and hypocritically + astounded, and mortified. + </p> + <p> + They made remarks, still in an unknown language, but which much past + experience enabled me to translate very readily: + </p> + <p> + “I don't know what has got into little Willie,” was the drift of it. “I + have never known him to act this way before. Why, only yesterday I was + saying to his father that it really seemed as though that child NEVER + cried-” + </p> + <p> + It made me feel quite friendly and at home. + </p> + <p> + Now at last came two marvellous and magnificent personages before whom the + women and children drew back to a respectful distance. These potentates + squatted down and smiled at us engagingly. Evidently this was a really + important couple, so we called up Simba, who knew the language, and had a + talk. + </p> + <p> + They were old men, straight, and very tall, with the hawk-faced, + high-headed dignity of the true aristocrat. Their robes were voluminous, + of some short-haired skins, beautifully embroidered. Around their arms + were armlets of polished buffalo horn. They wore most elaborate ear + ornaments, and long cased marquise rings extending well beyond the first + joints of the fingers. Very fine old gentlemen. They were quite unarmed. + </p> + <p> + After appropriate greetings, we learned that these were the chief and his + prime minister of a nearby village hidden in the jungle. We exchanged + polite phrases; then offered tobacco. This was accepted. From the jungle + came a youth carrying more bananas. We indicated our pleasure. The old men + arose with great dignity and departed, sweeping the women and children + before them. + </p> + <p> + We rode on. Our acquired retinue, which had waited at a respectful + distance, went on too. I suppose they must have desired the prestige of + being attached to Our Persons. In the depths of the forest Billy succumbed + to the temptation to bargain, and made her first trade. Her prize was a + long water gourd strapped with leather and decorated with cowry shells. + Our boys were completely scandalized at the price she paid for it, so I + fear the wily savage got ahead of her. + </p> + <p> + About the middle of the afternoon we sat down to wait for the safari to + catch up. It would never do to cheat our boys out of their anticipated + grand entrance to the Government post at Meru. We finally debouched from + the forest to the great clearing at the head of a most impressive + procession, flags flying, oryx horns blowing, boys chanting and beating + the sides of their loads with the safari sticks. As there happened to be + gathered, at this time, several thousand of warriors for the purpose of a + council, or shauri, with the District Commissioner we had just the + audience to delight our barbaric hearts. + </p> + <p> + (b) MERU + </p> + <p> + The Government post at Meru is situated in a clearing won from the forest + on the first gentle slopes of Kenia's ranges. The clearing is a very large + one, and on it the grass grows green and short, like a lawn. It resembles, + as much as anything else, the rolling, beautiful downs of a first-class + country club, and the illusion is enhanced by the Commissioner's house + among some trees atop a hill. Well-kept roadways railed with rustic fences + lead from the house to the native quarters lying in the hollow and to the + Government offices atop another hill. Then also there are the quarters of + the Nubian troops; round low houses with conical grass roofs. + </p> + <p> + These, and the presence everywhere of savages, rather take away from the + first country-club effect. A corral seemed full of a seething mob of + natives; we found later that this was the market, a place of exchange. + Groups wandered idly here and there across the greensward; and other + groups sat in circles under the shade of trees, each man's spear stuck in + the ground behind him. At stated points were the Nubians, fine, tall, + black, soldierly men, with red fez, khaki shirt, and short breeches, bare + knees and feet, spiral puttees, and a broad red sash of webbing. One of + these soldiers assigned us a place to camp. We directed our safari there, + and then immediately rode over to pay our respects to the Commissioner. + </p> + <p> + The latter, Horne by name, greeted us with the utmost cordiality, and + offered us cool drinks. Then we accompanied him to a grand shauri or + council of chiefs. + </p> + <p> + Horne was a little chap, dressed in flannels and a big slouch hat, + carrying only a light rawhide whip, with very little of the dignity and + “side” usually considered necessary in dealing with wild natives. The post + at Meru had been established only two years, among a people that had + always been very difficult, and had only recently ceased open hostilities. + Nevertheless in that length of time Horne's personal influence had won + them over to positive friendliness. He had, moreover, done the entire + construction work of the post itself; and this we now saw to be even more + elaborate than we had at first realized. Irrigating ditches ran in all + directions brimming with clear mountain water; the roads and paths were + rounded, graded and gravelled; the houses were substantial, well built and + well kept; fences, except of course the rustic, were whitewashed; the + native quarters and “barracks” were well ranged and in perfect order. The + place looked ten years old instead of only two. + </p> + <p> + We followed Horne to an enclosure, outside the gate of which were stacked + a great number of spears. Inside we found the owners of those spears + squatted before the open side of a small, three-walled building containing + a table and a chair. Horne placed himself in the chair, lounged back, and + hit the table smartly with his rawhide whip. From the centre of the throng + an old man got up and made quite a long speech. When he had finished + another did likewise. All was carried out with the greatest decorum. After + four or five had thus spoken, Horne, without altering his lounging + attitude, spoke twenty or thirty words, rapped again on the table with his + rawhide whip, and immediately came over to us. + </p> + <p> + “Now,” said he cheerfully, “we'll have a game of golf.” + </p> + <p> + That was amusing, but not astonishing. Most of us have at one time or + another laid out a scratch hole or so somewhere in the vacant lot. We + returned to the house, Horne produced a sufficiency of clubs, and we + sallied forth. Then came the surprise of our life! We played eighteen + holes-eighteen, mind you-over an excellently laid-out and kept-up course! + The fair greens were cropped short and smooth by a well-managed small herd + of sheep; the putting greens were rolled, and in perfect order; bunkers + had been located at the correct distances; there were water hazards in the + proper spots. In short, it was a genuine, scientific, well-kept golf + course. Over it played Horne, solitary except on the rare occasions when + he and his assistant happened to be at the post at the same time. The + nearest white man was six days' journey; the nearest small civilization + 196 miles.* The whole affair was most astounding. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Which was, in turn, over three hundred miles from the + next. +</pre> + <p> + Our caddies were grinning youngsters a good deal like the Gold Dust Twins. + They wore nothing but our golf bags. Afield were other supernumerary + caddies: one in case we sliced, one in case we pulled, and one in case we + drove straight ahead. Horne explained that unlimited caddies were easier + to get than unlimited golf balls. I can well believe it. + </p> + <p> + F. joined forces with Horne against B. and me for a grand international + match. I regret to state that America was defeated by two holes. + </p> + <p> + We returned to find our camp crowded with savages. In a short time we had + established trade relations and were doing a brisk business. Two years + before we should have had to barter exclusively; but now, thanks to + Horne's attempt to collect an annual hut tax, money was some good. We had, + however, very good luck with bright blankets and cotton cloth. Our beads + did not happen here to be in fashion. Probably three months earlier or + later we might have done better with them. The feminine mind here differs + in no basic essential from that of civilization. Fashions change as + rapidly, as often and as completely in the jungle as in Paris. The trader + who brings blue beads when blue beads have “gone out” might just as well + have stayed at home. We bought a number of the pretty “marquise” rings for + four cents apiece (our money), some war clubs or rungas for the same, + several spears, armlets, stools and the like. Billy thought one of the + short, soft skin cloaks embroidered with steel beads might be nice to hang + on the wall. We offered a youth two rupees for one. This must have been a + high price, for every man in hearing of the words snatched off his cloak + and rushed forward holding it out. As that reduced his costume to a few + knick-knacks, Billy retired from the busy mart until we could arrange + matters. + </p> + <p> + We dined with Horne. His official residence was most interesting. The main + room was very high to beams and a grass-thatched roof, with a well-brushed + earth floor covered with mats. It contained comfortable furniture, a small + library, a good phonograph, tables, lamps and the like. When the mountain + chill descended, Horne lit a fire in a coal-oil can with a perforated + bottom. What little smoke was produced by the clean burning wood lost + itself far aloft. Leopard skins and other trophies hung on the wall. We + dined in another room at a well-appointed table. After dinner we sat up + until the unheard of hour of ten o'clock discussing at length many matters + that interested us. Horne told us of his personal bodyguard consisting of + one son from each chief of his wide district. These youths were encouraged + to make as good an appearance as possible, and as a consequence turned out + in the extreme of savage gorgeousness. Horne spoke of them carelessly as a + “matter of policy in keeping the different tribes well disposed,” but I + thought he was at heart a little proud of them. Certainly, later and from + other sources, we heard great tales of their endurance, devotion and + efficiency. Also we heard that Horne had cut in half his six months' leave + (earned by three years' continuous service in the jungle) to hurry back + from England because he could not bear the thought of being absent from + the first collection of the hut tax! He is a good man. + </p> + <p> + We said good-night to him and stepped from the lighted house into the vast + tropical night. The little rays of our lantern showed us the inequalities + of the ground, and where to step across the bubbling, little irrigation + streams. But thousands of stars insisted on a simplification. The broad, + rolling meadows of the clearing lay half guessed in the dim light; and + about its edge was the velvet band of the forest, dark and mysterious, + stretching away for leagues into the jungle. From it near at hand, far + away, came the rhythmic beating of solemn great drums, and the rising and + falling chants of the savage peoples. + </p> + <p> + (C) THE CHIEFS + </p> + <p> + We left Meru well observed by a very large audience, much to the delight + of our safari boys, who love to show off. We had acquired fourteen more + small boys, or totos, ranging in age from eight to twelve years. These had + been fitted out by their masters to alleviate their original shenzi + appearance of savagery. Some had ragged blankets, which they had already + learned to twist turban wise around their heads; others had ragged old + jerseys reaching to their knees, or the wrecks of full-grown undershirts; + one or two even sported baggy breeches a dozen sizes too large. Each + carried his little load, proudly, atop his head like a real porter, + sufurias or cooking pots, the small bags of potio, and the like. Inside a + mile they had gravitated together and with the small boy's relish for + imitation and for playing a game, had completed a miniature safari + organization of their own. Thenceforth they marched in a compact little + company, under orders of their “headman.” They marched very well, too, + straight and proud and tireless. Of course we inspected their loads to see + that they were not required to carry too much for their strength; but, I + am bound to say, we never discovered an attempt at overloading. In fact, + the toto brigade was treated very well indeed. M'ganga especially took + great interest in their education and welfare. One of my most vivid camp + recollections is that of M'ganga, very benign and didactic, seated on a + chop box and holding forth to a semicircle of totos squatted on the ground + before him. On reaching camp totos had several clearly defined duties: + they must pick out good places for their masters' individual camps, they + must procure cooking stones, they must collect kindling wood and start + fires, they must fill the sufurias with water and set them over to boil. + In the meantime, their masters were attending to the pitching of the + bwana's camp. The rest of the time the toto played about quite happily, + and did light odd jobs, or watched most attentively while his master + showed him small details of a safari-boy's duty, or taught him simple + handicraft. Our boys seemed to take great pains with their totos and to + try hard to teach them. + </p> + <p> + Also at Meru we had acquired two cocks and four hens of the ridiculously + small native breed. These rode atop the loads: their feet were tied to the + cords and there they swayed and teetered and balanced all day long, + apparently quite happy and interested. At each new camp site they were + released and went scratching and clucking around among the tents. They + lent our temporary quarters quite a settled air of domesticity. We named + the cocks Gaston and Alphonse and somehow it was rather fine, in the + blackness before dawn, to hear these little birds crowing stout-heartedly + against the great African wilderness. Neither Gaston, Alphonse nor any of + their harem were killed and eaten by their owners; but seemed rather to + fulfil the function of household pets. + </p> + <p> + Along the jungle track we met swarms of people coming in to the post. One + large native safari composed exclusively of women were transporting loads + of trade goods for the Indian trader. They carried their burdens on their + backs by means of a strap passing over the top of the head; our own “tump + line” method. The labour seemed in no way to have dashed their spirits, + for they grinned at us, and joked merrily with our boys. Along the way, + every once in a while, we came upon people squatted down behind small + stocks of sugarcane, yams, bananas, and the like. With these our boys did + a brisk trade. Little paths led mysteriously into the jungle. Down them + came more savages to greet us. Everybody was most friendly and cheerful, + thanks to Horne's personal influence. Two years before this same lot had + been hostile. From every hidden village came the headmen or chiefs. They + all wanted to shake hands-the ordinary citizen never dreamed of aspiring + to that honour-and they all spat carefully into their palms before they + did so. This all had to be done in passing; for ordinary village headmen + it was beneath Our Dignity to draw rein. Once only we broke over this + rule. That was in the case of an old fellow with white hair who managed to + get so tangled up in the shrubbery that he could not get to us. He was so + frantic with disappointment that we made an exception and waited. + </p> + <p> + About three miles out, we lost one of our newly acquired totos. Reason: an + exasperated parent who had followed from Meru for the purpose of + reclaiming his runaway offspring. The latter was dragged off howling. + Evidently he, like some of his civilized cousins, had “run away to join + the circus.” As nearly as we could get at it, the rest of the totos, as + well as the nine additional we picked up before we quitted the jungle, had + all come with their parents' consent. In fact, we soon discovered that we + could buy any amount of good sound totos, not house broke however, for an + average of half a rupee (16-1/2 cents) apiece. + </p> + <p> + The road was very much up and down hill over the numerous ridges that + star-fish out from Mt. Kenia. We would climb down steep trails from 200 to + 800 feet (measured by aneroid), cross an excellent mountain stream of + crystalline dashing water, and climb out again. The trails of course had + no notion of easy grades. It was very hard work, especially for men with + loads; and it would have been impossible on account of the heat were it + not for the numerous streams. On the slopes and in the bottoms were + patches of magnificent forest; on the crests was the jungle, and + occasionally an outlook over extended views. The birds and the strange + tropical big-leaved trees were a constant delight-exotic and strange. + Billy was in a heaven of joy, for her specialty in Africa was plants, + seeds and bulbs, for her California garden. She had syces, gunbearers and + tent boys all climbing, shaking branches, and generally pawing about. + </p> + <p> + This idiosyncracy of Billy's puzzled our boys hugely. At first they tried + telling her that everything was poisonous; but when that did not work, + they resigned themselves to their fate. In fact, some of the most + enterprising like Memba Sasa, Kitaru, and, later, Kongoni used of their + own accord to hunt up and bring in seeds and blossoms. They did not in the + least understand what it was for; and it used to puzzle them hugely until + out of sheer pity for their uneasiness, I implied that the Memsahib + collected “medicine.” That was rational, so the wrinkled brow of care was + smoothed. From this botanical trait, Billy got her native name of “Beebee + Kooletta”—“The Lady Who Says: Go Get That.” For in Africa every white man + has a name by which he is known among the native people. If you would get + news of your friends, you must know their local cognomens-their own white + man names will not do at all. For example, I was called either Bwana + Machumwani or Bwana N'goma. The former means merely Master Four-eyes, + referring to my glasses. The precise meaning of the latter is a matter + much disputed between myself and Billy. An N'goma is a native dance, + consisting of drum poundings, chantings, and hoppings around. Therefore I + translate myself (most appropriately) as the Master who Makes Merry. On + the other hand, Billy, with true feminine indirectness, insists that it + means “The Master who Shouts and Howls.” I leave it to any fairminded + reader. + </p> + <p> + About the middle of the morning we met a Government runner, a proud youth, + young, lithe, with many ornaments and bangles; his red skin glistening; + the long blade of his spear, bound around with a red strip to signify his + office, slanting across his shoulder; his buffalo hide shield slung from + it over his back; the letter he was bearing stuck in a cleft stick and + carried proudly before him as a priest carries a cross to the heathen-in + the pictures. He was swinging along at a brisk pace, but on seeing us drew + up and gave us a smart military salute. + </p> + <p> + At one point where the path went level and straight for some distance, we + were riding in an absolute solitude. Suddenly from the jungle on either + side and about fifty yards ahead of us leaped a dozen women. They were + dressed in grass skirts, and carried long narrow wooden shields painted + white and brown. These they clashed together, shrieked shrilly, and + charged down on us at full speed. When within a few yards of our horses + noses they came to a sudden halt, once more clashed their shields, + shrieked, turned and scuttled away as fast as their legs could carry them. + At a hundred yards they repeated the performance; and charged back at us + again. Thus advancing and retreating, shrieking high, hitting the wooden + shields with resounding crash, they preceded our slow advance for a half + mile or so. Then at some signal unperceived by us they vanished abruptly + into the jungle. Once more we rode forward in silence and in solitude. Why + they did it I could not say. + </p> + <p> + Of this tissue were our days made. At noon our boys plucked us each two or + three banana leaves which they spread down for us to lie on. Then we dozed + through the hot hours in great comfort, occasionally waking to blue sky + through green trees, or to peer idly into the tangled jungle. At two + o'clock or a little later we would arouse ourselves reluctantly and move + on. The safari we had dimly heard passing us an hour before. In this + country of the direct track we did not attempt to accompany our men. + </p> + <p> + The end of the day's march found us in a little clearing where we could + pitch camp. Generally this was atop a ridge, so that the boys had some + distance to carry water; but that disadvantage was outweighed by the + cleared space. Sometimes we found ourselves hemmed in by a wall of jungle. + Again we enjoyed a broad outlook. One such in especial took in the + magnificent, splintered, snow-capped peak of Kenia on the right, a + tremendous gorge and rolling forested mountains straight ahead, and a + great drop to a plain with other and distant mountains to the left. It was + as fine a panoramic view as one could imagine. + </p> + <p> + Our tents pitched, and ourselves washed and refreshed, we gave audience to + the resident chief, who had probably been waiting. With this potentate we + conversed affably, after the usual expectoratorial ceremonies. Billy, + being a mere woman, did not always come in for this; but nevertheless she + maintained what she called her “quarantine gloves,” and kept them very + handy. We had standing orders with our boys for basins of hot water to be + waiting always behind our tents. After the usual polite exchanges we + informed the chief of our needs-firewood, perhaps, milk, a sheep or the + like. These he furnished. When we left we made him a present of a few + beads, a knife, a blanket or such according to the value of his + contribution. + </p> + <p> + To me these encounters were some of the most interesting of our many + experiences, for each man differed radically from every other in his + conceptions of ceremony, in his ideas, and in his methods. Our coming was + a good deal of an event, always, and each chief, according to his + temperament and training, tried to do things up properly. And in that + attempt certain basic traits of human nature showed in the very strongest + relief. Thus there are three points of view to take in running any + spectacle: that of the star performer, the stage manager, or the truly + artistic. We encountered well-marked specimens of each. I will tell you + about them. + </p> + <p> + The star performer knew his stagecraft thoroughly; and in the exposition + of his knowledge he showed incidentally how truly basic are the principles + of stagecraft anywhere. + </p> + <p> + We were seated under a tree near the banks of a stream eating our lunch. + Before us appeared two tall and slender youths, wreathed in smiles, + engaging, and most attentive to the small niceties of courtesy. We + returned their greeting from our recumbent positions, whereupon they made + preparation to squat down beside us. + </p> + <p> + “Are you sultans?” we demanded sternly, “that you attempt to sit in Our + Presence,” and we lazily kicked the nearest. + </p> + <p> + Not at all abashed, but favourably impressed with our transcendent + importance-as we intended-they leaned gracefully on their spears and + entered into conversation. After a few trifles of airy persiflage they got + down to business. + </p> + <p> + “This,” said they, indicating the tiny flat, “is the most beautiful place + to camp in all the mountains.” + </p> + <p> + We doubted it. + </p> + <p> + “Here is excellent water.” + </p> + <p> + We agreed to that. + </p> + <p> + “And there is no more water for a journey.” + </p> + <p> + “You are liars,” we observed politely. + </p> + <p> + “And near is the village of our chief, who is a great warrior, and will + bring you many presents; the greatest man in these parts.” + </p> + <p> + “Now you're getting to it,” we observed in English; “you want trade.” Then + in Swahili, “We shall march two hours longer.” + </p> + <p> + After a few polite phrases they went away. We finished lunch, remounted, + and rode up the trail. At the edge of the canyon we came to a wide + clearing, at the farther side of which was evidently the village in + question. But the merry villagers, down to the last toro, were drawn up at + the edge of the track in a double line through which we rode. They were + very wealthy savages, and wore it all. Bright neck, arm, and leg + ornaments, yards and yards of cowry shells in strings, blue beads of all + sizes (blue beads were evidently “in”), odd scraps and shapes of + embroidered skins, clean shaves and a beautiful polish characterized this + holiday gathering. We made our royal progress between the serried ranks. + About eight or ten seconds after we had passed the last villager-just the + proper dramatic pause, you observe-the bushes parted and a splendid, + straight, springy young man came into view and stepped smilingly across + the space that separated us. And about eight or ten seconds after his + emergence-again just the right dramatic pause-the bushes parted again to + give entrance to four of the quaintest little dolls of wives. These + advanced all abreast, parted, and took up positions two either side the + smiling chief. This youth was evidently in the height of fashion, his hair + braided in a tight queue bound with skin, his ears dangling with + ornaments, heavy necklaces around his neck, and armlets etc., ad lib. His + robe was of fine monkey skin embroidered with rosettes of beads, and his + spear was very long, bright and keen. He was tall and finely built carried + himself with a free, lithe swing. As the quintette came to halt, the + villagers fell silent and our shauri began. + </p> + <p> + We drew up and dismounted. We all expectorated as gentlemen. + </p> + <p> + “These,” said he proudly, “are my beebees.” + </p> + <p> + We replied that they seemed like excellent beebees and politely inquired + the price of wives thereabout, and also the market for totos. He gave us + to understand that such superior wives as these brought three cows and + twenty sheep apiece, but that you could get a pretty good toto for half a + rupee. + </p> + <p> + “When we look upon our women,” he concluded grandly, “we find them good; + but when we look upon the white women they are as nothing!” He completely + obliterated the poor little beebees with a magnificent gesture. They + looked very humble and abashed. I was, however, a bit uncertain as to + whether this was intended as a genuine tribute to Billy, or was meant to + console us for having only one to his four. + </p> + <p> + Now observe the stagecraft of all this: entrance of diplomats, preliminary + conversation introducing the idea of the greatness of N'Zahgi (for that + was his name), chorus of villagers, and, as climax, dramatic entrance of + the hero and heroines. It was pretty well done. + </p> + <p> + Again we stopped about the middle of the afternoon in an opening on the + rounded top of a hill. While waiting for the safari to come up, Billy + wandered away fifty or sixty yards to sit under a big tree. She did not + stay long. Immediately she was settled, a dozen women and young girls + surrounded her. They were almost uproariously good-natured, but Billy was + probably the first white woman they had ever seen, and they intended to + make the most of her. Every item of her clothes and equipment they + examined minutely, handled and discussed. When she told them with great + dignity to go away, they laughed consumedly, fairly tumbling into each + other's arms with excess of joy. Billy tried to gather her effects for a + masterly retreat, but found the press of numbers too great. At last she + had to signal for help. One of us wandered over with a kiboko with which + lightly he flicked the legs of such damsels as he could reach. They + scattered like quail, laughing hilariously. Billy was escorted back to + safety. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after the Chief and his Prime Minister came in. He was a little + old gray-haired gentleman, as spry as a cricket, quite nervous, and very + chatty. We indicated our wants to him, and he retired after enunciating + many words. The safari came in, made camp. We had tea and a bath. The + darkness fell; and still no Chief, no milk, no firewood, no promises + fulfilled. There were plenty of natives around camp, but when we suggested + that they get out and rustle on our behalf, they merely laughed + good-naturedly. We seriously contemplated turning the whole lot out of + camp. + </p> + <p> + Finally we gave it up, and sat down to our dinner. It was now quite dark. + The askaris had built a little campfire out in front. + </p> + <p> + Then, far in the distance of the jungle's depths, we heard a faint + measured chanting as of many people coming nearer. From another direction + this was repeated. The two processions approached each other; their paths + converged; the double chanting became a chorus that grew moment by moment. + We heard beneath the wild weird minors the rhythmic stamping of feet, and + the tapping of sticks. The procession debouched from the jungle's edge + into the circle of the firelight. Our old chief led, accompanied by a + bodyguard in all the panoply of war: ostrich feather circlets enclosing + the head and face, shields of bright heraldry, long glittering spears. + These were followed by a dozen of the quaintest solemn dolls of beebees + dressed in all the white cowry shells, beads and brass the royal treasury + afforded, very earnest, very much on inspection, every little head + uplifted, singing away just as hard as ever they could. Each carried a + gourd of milk, a bunch of bananas, some sugarcane, yams or the like. + Straight to the fire marched the pageant. Then the warriors dividing right + and left, drew up facing each other in two lines, struck their spears + upright in the ground, and stood at attention. The quaint brown little + women lined up to close the end of this hollow square, of which our group + was, roughly speaking, the fourth side. Then all came to attention. The + song now rose to a wild and ecstatic minor chanting. The beebees, still + singing, one by one cast their burdens between the files and at our feet + in the middle of the hollow square. Then they continued their chant, + singing away at the tops of their little lungs, their eyes and teeth + showing, their pretty bodies held rigidly upright. The warriors, very + erect and military, stared straight ahead. + </p> + <p> + And the chief? Was he the centre of the show, the important leading man, + to the contemplation of whom all these glories led? Not at all! This + particular chief did not have the soul of a leading man, but rather the + soul of a stage manager. Quite forgetful of himself and his part in the + spectacle, his brow furrowed with anxiety, he was flittering from one to + another of the performers. He listened carefully to each singer in turn, + holding his hand behind his ear to catch the individual note, striking one + on the shoulder in admonition, nodding approval at another. He darted + unexpectedly across to scrutinize a warrior, in the chance of catching a + flicker of the eyelid even. Nary a flicker! They did their stage manager + credit, and stood like magnificent bronzes. He even ran across to peer + into our own faces to see how we liked it. + </p> + <p> + With a sudden crescendo the music stopped. Involuntarily we broke into + handclapping. The old boy looked a bit startled at this, but we explained + to him, and he seemed very pleased. We then accepted formally the heap of + presents, by touching them-and in turn passed over a blanket, a box of + matches, and two needles, together with beads for the beebees. Then F., on + an inspiration, produced his flashlight. This made a tremendous sensation. + The women tittered and giggled and blinked as its beams were thrown + directly into their eyes; the chief's sons grinned and guffawed; the chief + himself laughed like a pleased schoolboy, and seemed never to weary of the + sudden shutting on and off of the switch. But the trusty Spartan warriors, + standing still in their formation behind their planted spears, were not to + be shaken. They glared straight in front of them, even when we held the + light within a few inches of their eyes, and not a muscle quivered! + </p> + <p> + “It is wonderful! wonderful!” the old man repeated. “Many Government men + have come here, but none have had anything like that! The bwanas must be + very great sultans!” + </p> + <p> + After the departure of our friends, we went rather grandly to bed. We + always did after any one had called us sultans. + </p> + <p> + But our prize chief was an individual named M'booley.* Our camp here also + was on a fine cleared hilltop between two streams. After we had traded for + a while with very friendly and prosperous people M'booley came in. He was + young, tall, straight, with a beautiful smooth lithe form, and his face + was hawklike and cleverly intelligent. He carried himself with the + greatest dignity and simplicity, meeting us on an easy plane of + familiarity. I do not know how I can better describe his manner toward us + than to compare it to the manner the member of an exclusive golf club + would use to one who is a stranger, but evidently a guest. He took our + quality for granted; and supposed we must do the same by him, neither + acting as though he considered us “great white men,” nor yet standing + aloof and too respectful. And as the distinguishing feature of all, he was + absolutely without personal ornament. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Pronounce each o separately. +</pre> + <p> + Pause for a moment to consider what a real advance in esthetic taste that + one little fact stands for. All M'booley's attendants were the giddiest + and gaudiest savages we had yet seen, with more colobus fur, sleighbells, + polished metal, ostrich plumes, and red paint than would have fitted out + any two other royal courts of the jungle. The women too were wealthy and + opulent without limit. It takes considerable perception among our + civilized people to realize that severe simplicity amid ultra magnificence + makes the most effective distinguishing of an individual. If you do not + believe it, drop in at the next ball to which you are invited. M'booley + had fathomed this, and what was more he had the strength of mind to act on + it. Any savage loves finery for its own sake. His hair was cut short, and + shaved away at the edges to leave what looked like an ordinary + close-fitting skull cap. He wore one pair of plain armlets on his left + upper arm and small simple ear-rings. His robe was black. He had no trace + of either oil or paint, nor did he even carry a spear. + </p> + <p> + He greeted us with good-humoured ease, and inquired conversationally if we + wanted anything. We suggested wood and milk, whereupon still smiling, he + uttered a few casual words in his own language to no one in particular. + There was no earthly doubt that he was chief. Three of the most gorgeous + and haughty warriors ran out of camp. Shortly long files of women came in + bringing loads of firewood; and others carrying bananas, yams, sugarcane + and a sheep. Truly M'booley did things on a princely scale. We thanked + him. He accepted the thanks with a casual smile, waved his hand and went + on to talk of something else. In due order our M'ganga brought up one of + our best trade blankets, to which we added a half dozen boxes of matches + and a razor. + </p> + <p> + Now into camp filed a small procession: four women, four children, and two + young men. These advanced to where M'booley was standing smoking with + great satisfaction one of B's tailor-made cigarettes. M'booley advanced + ten feet to meet them, and brought them up to introduce them one by one in + the most formal fashion. These were of course his family, and we had to + confess that they “saw” N'Zahgi's outfit of ornaments and “raised” him + beyond the ceiling. We gave them each in turn the handshake of ceremony, + first with the palms as we do it, and then each grasping the other's + upright thumb. The “little chiefs” were proud, aristocratic little + fellows, holding themselves very straight and solemn. I think one would + have known them for royalty anywhere. + </p> + <p> + It was quite a social occasion. None of our guests was in the least ill at + ease; in fact, the young ladies were quite coy and flirtatious. We had a + great many jokes. Each of the little ladies received a handful of + prevailing beads. M'booley smiled benignly at these delightful + femininities. After a time he led us to the edge of the hill and showed us + his houses across the cation, perched on a flat about halfway up the wall. + They were of the usual grass-thatched construction, but rather larger and + neater than most. Examining them through the glasses we saw that a little + stream had been diverted to flow through the front yard. M'booley waved + his hand abroad and gave us to understand that he considered the outlook + worth looking at. It was; but an appreciation of that fact is foreign to + the average native. Next morning, when we rode by very early, we found the + little flat most attractively cleared and arranged. M'booley was out to + shake us by the hand in farewell, shivering in the cold of dawn. The + flirtatious and spoiled little beauties were not in evidence. + </p> + <p> + One day after two very deep canyons we emerged from the forest jungle into + an up and down country of high jungle bush-brush. From the top of a ridge + it looked a good deal like a northern cut-over pine country grown up very + heavily to blackberry vines; although, of course, when we came nearer, the + “blackberry vines” proved to be ten or twenty feet high. This was a + district of which Horne had warned us. The natives herein were reported + restless and semi-hostile; and in fact had never been friendly. They + probably needed the demonstration most native tribes seem to require + before they are content to settle down and be happy. At any rate safaris + were not permitted in their district; and we ourselves were allowed to go + through merely because we were a large party, did not intend to linger, + and had a good reputation with natives. + </p> + <p> + It is very curious how abruptly, in Central Africa, one passes from one + condition to another, from one tribe or race to the next. Sometimes, as in + the present case, it is the traversing of a deep cation; at others the + simple crossing of a tiny brook is enough. Moreover the line of + demarcation is clearly defined, as boundaries elsewhere are never defined + save in wartime. + </p> + <p> + Thus we smiled our good-bye to a friendly numerous people, descended a + hill, and ascended another into a deserted track. After a half mile we + came unexpectedly on to two men carrying each a load of reeds. These they + abandoned and fled up the hillside through the jungle, in spite of our + shouted assurances. A moment later they reappeared at some distance above + us, each with a spear he had snatched from somewhere; they were unarmed + when we first caught sight of them. Examined through the glasses they + proved to be sullen looking men, copper coloured, but broad across the + cheekbones, broad in the forehead, more decidedly of the negro type than + our late hosts. + </p> + <p> + Aside from these two men we travelled through an apparently deserted + jungle. I suspect, however, that we were probably well watched; for when + we stopped for noon we heard the gunbearers beyond the screen of leaves + talking to some one. On learning from our boys that these were some of the + shenzis, we told them to bring the savages in for a shauri; but in this + our men failed, nor could they themselves get nearer than fifty yards or + so to the wild people. So until evening our impression remained that of + two distant men, and the indistinct sound of voices behind a leafy screen. + </p> + <p> + We made camp comparatively early in a wide open space surrounded by low + forest. Almost immediately then the savages commenced to drift in, very + haughty and arrogant. They were fully armed. Besides the spear and + decorated shield, some of them carried the curious small grass spears. + These are used to stab upward from below, the wielder lying flat in the + grass. Some of these men were fantastically painted with a groundwork + ochre, on which had been drawn intricate wavy designs on the legs, like + stockings, and varied stripes across the face. One particularly ingenious + individual, stark naked, had outlined a roughly entire skeleton! He was a + gruesome object! They stalked here and there through the camp, looking at + our men and their activities with a lofty and silent contempt. + </p> + <p> + You may be sure we had our arrangements, though they did not appear on the + surface. The askaris, or native soldiers, were posted here and there with + their muskets; the gunbearers also kept our spare weapons by them. The + askaris could not hit a barn, but they could make a noise. The gunbearers + were fair shots. + </p> + <p> + Of course the chief and his prime minister came in. They were evil-looking + savages. To them we paid not the slightest attention, but went about our + usual business as though they did not exist. At the end of an hour they of + their own initiative greeted us. We did not hear them. Half an hour later + they disappeared, to return after an interval, followed by a string of + young men bearing firewood. Evidently our bearing had impressed them, as + we had intended. We then unbent far enough to recognize them, carried on a + formal conversation for a few moments, gave them adequate presents and + dismissed them. Then we ordered the askaris to clear camp and to keep it + clear. No women had appeared. Even the gifts of firewood had been carried + by men, a most unusual proceeding. + </p> + <p> + As soon as dark fell the drums began roaring in the forest all about our + clearing, and the chanting to rise. We instructed our men to shoot first + and inquire afterward, if a shenzi so much as showed himself in the + clearing. This was not as bad as it sounded; the shenzi stood in no + immediate danger. Then we turned in to a sleep rather light and broken by + uncertainty. I do not think we were in any immediate danger of a + considered attack, for these people were not openly hostile; but there was + always a chance that the savages might by their drum pounding and dancing + work themselves into a frenzy. Then we might have to do a little rapid + shooting. Not for one instant the whole night long did those misguided + savages cease their howling and dancing. At any rate we cost them a + night's sleep. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we took up our march through the deserted tracks once more. + Not a sign of human life did we encounter. About ten o'clock we climbed + down a tremendous gash of a box canyon with precipitous cliffs. From below + we looked back to see, perched high against the skyline, the motionless + figures of many savages watching us from the crags. So we had had company + after all, and we had not known it. This canyon proved to be the boundary + line. With the same abruptness we passed again into friendly country. + </p> + <p> + (d) OUT THE OTHER SIDE + </p> + <p> + We left the jungle finally when we turned on a long angle away from Kenia. + At first the open country of the foothills was closely cultivated with + fields of rape and maize. We saw some of the people breaking new soil by + means of long pointed sticks. The plowmen quite simply inserted the + pointed end in the ground and pried. It was very slow hard work. In other + fields the grain stood high and good. From among the stalks, as from a + miniature jungle, the little naked totos stared out, and the good-natured + women smiled at us. The magnificent peak of Kenia had now shaken itself + free of the forests. On its snow the sunrises and sunsets kindled their + fires. The flames of grass fires, too, could plainly be made out, + incredible distances away, and at daytime, through the reek, were + fascinating suggestions of distant rivers, plains, jungles, and hills. You + see, we were still practically on the wide slope of Kenia's base, though + the peak was many days away, and so could look out over wide country. + </p> + <p> + The last half day of this we wandered literally in a rape field. The + stalks were quite above our heads, and we could see but a few yards in any + direction. In addition the track had become a footpath not over two feet + wide. We could occasionally look back to catch glimpses of a pack or so + bobbing along on a porter's head. From our own path hundreds of other + paths branched; we were continually taking the wrong fork and moving back + to set the safari right before it could do likewise. This we did by + drawing a deep double line in the earth across the wrong trail. Then we + hustled on ahead to pioneer the way a little farther; our difficulties + were further complicated by the fact that we had sent our horses back to + Nairobi for fear of the tsetse fly, so we could not see out above the + corn. All we knew was that we ought to go down hill. + </p> + <p> + At the ends of some of our false trails we came upon fascinating little + settlements: groups of houses inside brush enclosures, with low wooden + gateways beneath which we had to stoop to enter. Within were groups of + beehive houses with small naked children and perhaps an old woman or old + man seated cross-legged under a sort of veranda. From them we obtained + new-and confusing-directions. + </p> + <p> + After three o'clock we came finally out on the edge of a cliff fifty or + sixty feet high, below which lay uncultivated bottom lands like a great + meadow and a little meandering stream. We descended the cliff, and camped + by the meandering stream. + </p> + <p> + By this time we were fairly tired from long walking in the heat, and so + were content to sit down under our tent-fly before our little table, and + let Mahomet bring us sparklets and lime juice. Before us was the flat of a + meadow below the cliffs and the cliffs themselves. Just below the rise lay + a single patch of standing rape not over two acres in extent, the only + sign of human life. It was as though this little bit had overflowed from + the countless millions on the plateau above. Beyond it arose a thin signal + of smoke. + </p> + <p> + We sipped our lime juice and rested. Soon our attention was attracted by + the peculiar actions of a big flock of very white birds. They rose + suddenly from one side of the tiny rape field, wheeled and swirled like + leaves in the wind, and dropped down suddenly on the other side the patch. + After a few moments they repeated the performance. The sun caught the + dazzling white of their plumage. At first we speculated on what they might + be, then on what they were doing, to behave in so peculiar a manner. The + lime juice and the armchair began to get in their recuperative work. + Somehow the distance across that flat did not seem quite as tremendous as + at first. Finally I picked up the shotgun and sauntered across to + investigate. The cause of action I soon determined. The owner of that rape + field turned out to be an emaciated, gray-haired but spry old savage. He + was armed with a spear; and at the moment his chief business in life + seemed to be chasing a large flock of white birds off his grain. Since he + had no assistance, and since the birds held his spear in justifiable + contempt as a fowling piece, he was getting much exercise and few results. + The birds gave way before his direct charge, flopped over to the other + side, and continued their meal. They had already occasioned considerable + damage; the rape heads were bent and destroyed for a space of perhaps ten + feet from the outer edge of the field. As this grain probably constituted + the old man's food supply for a season, I did not wonder at the vehemence + with which he shook his spear at his enemies, nor the apparent flavour of + his language, though I did marvel at his physical endurance. As for the + birds, they had become cynical and impudent; they barely fluttered out of + the way. + </p> + <p> + I halted the old gentleman and hastened to explain that I was neither a + pirate, a robber, nor an oppressor of the poor. This as counter-check to + his tendency to flee, leaving me in sole charge. He understood a little + Swahili, and talked a few words of something he intended for that + language. By means of our mutual accomplishment in that tongue, and + through a more efficient sign language, I got him to understand the plan + of campaign. It was very simple. I squatted down inside the rape, while he + went around the other side to scare them up. + </p> + <p> + The white birds uttered their peculiarly derisive cackle at the old man + and flapped over to my side. Then they were certainly an astonished lot of + birds. I gave them both barrels and dropped a pair; got two more shots as + they swung over me and dropped another pair, and brought down a straggling + single as a grand finale. The flock, with shrill, derogatory remarks, flew + in an airline straight away. They never deviated, as far as I could follow + them with the eye. Even after they had apparently disappeared, I could + catch an occasional flash of white in the sun. + </p> + <p> + Now the old gentleman came whooping around with long, undignified bounds + to fall on his face and seize my foot in an excess of gratitude. He rose + and capered about, he rushed out and gathered in the slain one by one and + laid them in a pile at my feet. Then he danced a jig-step around them and + reviled them, and fell on his face once more, repeating the word “Bwana! + bwana! bwana!” over and over-“Master! master! master!” We returned to camp + together, the old gentleman carrying the birds, and capering about like a + small boy, pouring forth a flood of his sort of Swahili, of which I could + understand only a word here and there. Memba Sasa, very dignified and + scornful of such performances, met us halfway and took my gun. He seemed + to be able to understand the old fellow's brand of Swahili, and said it + over again in a brand I could understand. From it I gathered that I was + called a marvellously great sultan, a protector of the poor, and other + Arabian Nights titles. + </p> + <p> + The birds proved to be white egrets. Now at home I am strongly against the + killing of these creatures, and have so expressed myself on many + occasions. But, looking from the beautiful white plumage of these + villainous mauraders, to the wrinkled countenance of the grateful weary + old savage, I could not fan a spark of regret. And from the straight line + of their retreating flight I like to think that the rest of the flock + never came back, but took their toll from the wider fields of the plateau + above. + </p> + <p> + Next day we reentered the game-haunted wilderness, nor did we see any more + native villages until many weeks later we came into the country of the + Wakamba. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0019" id="link2H_4_0019"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XIX. THE TANA RIVER + </h2> + <p> + Our first sight of the Tana River was from the top of a bluff. It flowed + below us a hundred feet, bending at a sharp elbow against the cliff on + which we stood. Out of the jungle it crept sluggishly and into the jungle + it crept again, brown, slow, viscid, suggestive of the fevers and the + lurking beasts by which, indeed, it was haunted. From our elevation we + could follow its course by the jungle that grew along its banks. At first + this was intermittent, leaving thin or even open spaces at intervals, but + lower down it extended away unbroken and very tall. The trees were many of + them beginning to come into flower. + </p> + <p> + Either side of the jungle were rolling hills. Those to the left made up to + the tremendous slopes of Kenia. Those to the right ended finally in a low + broken range many miles away called the Ithanga Hills. The country gave + one the impression of being clothed with small trees; although here and + there this growth gave space to wide grassy plains. Later we discovered + that the forest was more apparent than real. The small trees, even where + continuous, were sparse enough to permit free walking in all directions, + and open enough to allow clear sight for a hundred yards or so. + Furthermore, the shallow wide valleys between the hills were almost + invariably treeless and grown to very high thick grass. + </p> + <p> + Thus the course of the Tana possessed advantages to such as we. By + following in general the course of the stream we were always certain of + wood and water. The river itself was full of fish-not to speak of hundreds + of crocodiles and hippopotamuses. The thick river jungle gave cover to + such animals as the bushbuck, leopard, the beautiful colobus, some of the + tiny antelope, waterbuck, buffalo and rhinoceros. Among the thorn and + acacia trees of the hillsides one was certain of impalla, eland, + diks-diks, and giraffes. In the grass bottoms were lions, rhinoceroses, a + half dozen varieties of buck, and thousands and thousands of game birds + such as guinea fowl and grouse. On the plains fed zebra, hartebeeste, + wart-hog, ostriches, and several species of the smaller antelope. As a + sportsman's paradise this region would be hard to beat. + </p> + <p> + We were now afoot. The dreaded tsetse fly abounded here, and we had sent + our horses in via Fort Hall. F. had accompanied them, and hoped to rejoin + us in a few days or weeks with tougher and less valuable mules. Pending + his return we moved on leisurely, camping long at one spot, marching short + days, searching the country far and near for the special trophies of which + we stood in need. + </p> + <p> + It was great fun. Generally we hunted each in his own direction and + according to his own ideas. The jungle along the river, while not the most + prolific in trophies, was by all odds the most interesting. It was very + dense, very hot, and very shady. Often a thorn thicket would fling itself + from the hills right across to the water's edge, absolutely and hopelessly + impenetrable save by way of the rhinoceros tracks. Along these then we + would slip, bent double, very quietly and gingerly, keeping a sharp + lookout for the rightful owners of the trail. Again we would wander among + lofty trees through the tops of which the sun flickered on festooned + serpent-like vines. Every once in a while we managed a glimpse of the + sullen oily river through the dense leaf screen on its banks. The water + looked thick as syrup, of a deadly menacing green. Sometimes we saw a + loathsome crocodile lying with his nose just out of water, or heard the + snorting blow of a hippopotamus coming up for air. Then the thicket forced + us inland again. We stepped very slowly, very alertly, our ears cocked for + the faintest sound, our eyes roving. Generally, of course, the creatures + of the jungle saw us first. We became aware of them by a crash or a + rustling or a scamper. Then we stood stock listening with all our ears for + some sound distinguishing to the species. Thus I came to recognize the + queer barking note of the bushbuck, for example, and to realize how + profane and vulgar that and the beautiful creature, the impalla, can be + when he forgets himself. As for the rhinoceros, he does not care how much + noise he makes, nor how badly he scares you. + </p> + <p> + Personally, I liked very well to circle out in the more open country until + about three o'clock, then to enter the river jungle and work my way slowly + back toward camp. At that time of day the shadows were lengthening, the + birds and animals were beginning to stir about. In the cooling nether + world of shadow we slipped silently from thicket to thicket, from tree to + tree; and the jungle people fled from us, or withdrew, or gazed curiously, + or cursed us as their dispositions varied. + </p> + <p> + While thus returning one evening I saw my first colobus. He was swinging + rapidly from one tree to another, his long black and white fur shining + against the sun. I wanted him very much, and promptly let drive at him + with the 405 Winchester. I always carried this heavier weapon in the dense + jungle. Of course I missed him, but the roar of the shot so surprised him + that he came to a stand. Memba Sasa passed me the Springfield, and I + managed to get him in the head. At the shot another flashed into view, + high up in the top of a tree. Again I aimed and fired. The beast let go + and fell like a plummet. “Good shot,” said I to myself. Fifty feet down + the colobus seized a limb and went skipping away through the branches as + lively as ever. In a moment he stopped to look back, and by good luck I landed + him through the body. When we retrieved him we found that the first shot + had not hit him at all! + </p> + <p> + At the time I thought he must have been frightened into falling; but many + subsequent experiences showed me that this sheer let-go-all-holds drop is + characteristic of the colobus and his mode of progression. He rarely, as + far as my observation goes, leaps out and across as do the ordinary + monkeys, but prefers to progress by a series of slanting ascents followed + by breath-taking straight drops to lower levels. When closely pressed from + beneath, he will go as high as he can, and will then conceal himself in + the thick leaves. + </p> + <p> + B. and I procured our desired number of colobus by taking advantage of + this habit-as soon as we had learned it. Shooting the beasts with our + rifles we soon found to be not only very difficult, but also destructive + of the skins. On the other hand, a man could not, save by sheer good + fortune, rely on stalking near enough to use a shotgun. Therefore we + evolved a method productive of the maximum noise, row, barked shins, thorn + wounds, tumbles, bruises-and colobus! It was very simple. We took about + twenty boys into the jungle with us, and as soon as we caught sight of a + colobus we chased him madly. That was all there was to it. + </p> + <p> + And yet this method, simple apparently to the point of imbecility, had + considerable logic back of it after all; for after a time somebody managed + to get underneath that colobus when he was at the top of a tree. Then the + beast would hide. + </p> + <p> + Consider then a tumbling riotous mob careering through the jungle as fast + as the jungle would let it, slipping, stumbling, falling flat, getting + tangled hopelessly, disentangling with profane remarks, falling behind and + catching up again, everybody yelling and shrieking. Ahead of us we caught + glimpses of the sleek bounding black and white creature, running up the + long slanting limbs, and dropping like a plummet into the lower branches + of the next tree. We white men never could keep up with the best of our + men at this sort of work, although in the open country I could hold them + well enough. We could see them dashing through the thick cover at a great + rate of speed far ahead of us. After an interval came a great shout in + chorus. By this we knew that the quarry had been definitely brought to a + stand. Arriving at the spot we craned our heads backward, and proceeded to + get a crick in the neck trying to make out invisible colobus in the very + tops of the trees above us. For gaudily marked beasts the colobus were + extraordinarily difficult to see. This was in no sense owing to any + far-fetched application of protective colouration; but to the remarkable + skill the animals possessed in concealing themselves behind apparently the + scantiest and most inadequate cover. Fortunately for us our boys' ability + to see them was equally remarkable. Indeed, the most difficult part of + their task was to point the game out to us. We squinted, and changed + position, and tried hard to follow directions eagerly proffered by a dozen + of the men. Finally one of us would, by the aid of six power-glasses, make + out, or guess at a small tuft of white or black hair showing beyond the + concealment of a bunch of leaves. We would unlimber the shotgun and send a + charge of BB into that bunch. Then down would plump the game, to the huge + and vociferous delight of all the boys. Or, as occasionally happened, the + shot was followed merely by a shower of leaves and a chorus of + expostulations indicating that we had mistaken the place, and had fired + into empty air. + </p> + <p> + In this manner we gathered the twelve we required between us. At noon we + sat under the bank, with the tangled roots of trees above us, and the + smooth oily river slipping by. You may be sure we always selected a spot + protected by very shoal water, for the crocodiles were numerous. I always + shot these loathsome creatures whenever I got a chance, whenever the sound + of a shot would not alarm more valuable game. Generally they were to be + seen in midstream, just the tip of their snouts above water, and + extraordinarily like anything but crocodiles. Often it took several close + scrutinies through the glass to determine the brutes. This required rather + nice shooting. More rarely we managed to see them on the banks, or only + half submerged. In this position, too, they were all but undistinguishable + as living creatures. I think this is perhaps because of their complete + immobility. The creatures of the woods, standing quite still, are + difficult enough to see; but I have a notion that the eye, unknown to + itself, catches the sum total of little flexings of the muscles, movements + of the skin, winkings, even the play of wind and light in the hair of the + coat, all of which, while impossible of analysis, together relieve the + appearance of dead inertia. The vitality of a creature like the crocodile, + however, seems to have withdrawn into the inner recesses of its being. It + lies like a log of wood, and for a log of wood it is mistaken. + </p> + <p> + Nevertheless the crocodile has stored in it somewhere a fearful vitality. + The swiftness of its movements when seizing prey is most astonishing; a + swirl of water, the sweep of a powerful tail, and the unfortunate victim + has disappeared. For this reason it is especially dangerous to approach + the actual edge of any of the great rivers, unless the water is so shallow + that the crocodile could not possibly approach under cover, as is its + cheerful habit. We had considerable difficulty in impressing this + elementary truth on our hill-bred totos until one day, hearing wild + shrieks from the direction of the river, I rushed down to find the lot + huddled together in the very middle of a sand spit that-reached well out + into the stream. Inquiry developed that while paddling in the shallows + they had been surprised by the sudden appearance of an ugly snout and well + drenched by the sweep of an eager tail. The stroke fortunately missed. We + stilled the tumult, sat down quietly to wait, and at the end of ten + minutes had the satisfaction of abating that croc. + </p> + <p> + Generally we killed the brutes where we found them and allowed them to + drift away with the current. Occasionally however we wanted a piece of + hide, and then tried to retrieve them. One such occasion showed very + vividly the tenacity of life and the primitive nervous systems of these + great saurians. + </p> + <p> + I discovered the beast, head out of water, in a reasonable sized pool + below which were shallow rapids. My Springfield bullet hit him fair, + whereupon he stood square on his head and waved his tail in the air, + rolled over three or four times, thrashed the water, and disappeared. + After waiting a while we moved on downstream. Returning four hours later I + sneaked up quietly. There the crocodile lay sunning himself on the sand + bank. I supposed he must be dead; but when I accidentally broke a twig, he + immediately commenced to slide off into the water. Thereupon I stopped him + with a bullet in the spine. The first shot had smashed a hole in his head, + just behind the eye, about the size of an ordinary coffee cup. In spite of + this wound, which would have been instantly fatal to any warm-blooded + animal, the creature was so little affected that it actually reacted to a + slight noise made at some distance from where it lay. Of course the wound + would probably have been fatal in the long run. + </p> + <p> + The best spot to shoot at, indeed, is not the head but the spine + immediately back of the head. + </p> + <p> + These brutes are exceedingly powerful. They are capable of taking down + horses and cattle, with no particular effort. This I know from my own + observation. Mr. Fleischman, however, was privileged to see the wonderful + sight of the capture and destruction of a full-grown rhinoceros by a + crocodile. The photographs he took of this most extraordinary affair leave + no room for doubt. Crossing a stream was always a matter of concern to us. + The boys beat the surface of the water vigorously with their safari + sticks. On occasion we have even let loose a few heavy bullets to stir up + the pool before venturing in. + </p> + <p> + A steep climb through thorn and brush would always extricate us from the + river jungle when we became tired of it. Then we found ourselves in a + continuous but scattered growth of small trees. Between the trunks of + these we could see for a hundred yards or so before their numbers closed + in the view. Here was the favourite haunt of numerous beautiful impalla. + We caught glimpses of them, flashing through the trees; or occasionally + standing, gazing in our direction, their slender necks stretched high, + their ears pointed for us. These curious ones were generally the does. The + bucks were either more cautious or less inquisitive. A herd or so of eland + also liked this covered country; and there were always a few waterbuck and + rhinoceroses about. Often too we here encountered stragglers from the open + plains-zebra or hartebeeste, very alert and suspicious in unaccustomed + surroundings. + </p> + <p> + A great deal of the plains country had been burned over; and a + considerable area was still afire. The low bright flames licked their way + slowly through the grass in a narrow irregular band extending sometimes + for miles. Behind it was blackened soil, and above it rolled dense clouds + of smoke. Always accompanied it thousands of birds wheeling and dashing + frantically in and out of the murk, often fairly at the flames themselves. + The published writings of a certain worthy and sentimental person waste + much sympathy over these poor birds dashing frenziedly about above their + destroyed nests. As a matter of fact they are taking greedy advantage of a + most excellent opportunity to get insects cheap. Thousands of the common + red-billed European storks patrolled the grass just in front of the + advancing flames, or wheeled barely above the fire. Grasshoppers were + their main object, although apparently they never objected to any small + mammals or reptiles that came their way. Far overhead wheeled a few + thousand more assorted soarers who either had no appetite or had satisfied + it. + </p> + <p> + The utter indifference of the animals to the advance of a big + conflagration always impressed me. One naturally pictures the beasts as + fleeing wildly, nostrils distended, before the devouring element. On the + contrary I have seen kongoni grazing quite peacefully with flames on three + sides of them. The fire seems to travel rather slowly in the tough grass; + although at times and for a short distance it will leap to a wild and + roaring life. Beasts will then lope rapidly away to right or left, but + without excitement. + </p> + <p> + On these open plains we were more or less pestered with ticks of various + sizes. These clung to the grass blades; but with no invincible preference + for that habitat; trousers did them just as well. Then they ascended + looking for openings. They ranged in size from little red ones as small as + the period of a printed page to big patterned fellows the size of a pea. + The little ones were much the most abundant. At times I have had the front + of my breeches so covered with them that their numbers actually imparted a + reddish tinge to the surface of the cloth. This sounds like exaggeration, + but it is a measured statement. The process of de-ticking (new and + valuable word) can then be done only by scraping with the back of a + hunting knife. + </p> + <p> + Some people, of tender skin, are driven nearly frantic by these pests. + Others, of whom I am thankful to say I am one, get off comparatively easy. + In a particularly bad tick country, one generally appoints one of the + youngsters as “tick toto.” It is then his job in life to de-tick any + person or domestic animal requiring his services. His is a busy existence. + But though at first the nuisance is excessive, one becomes accustomed to + it in a remarkably short space of time. The adaptability of the human + being is nowhere better exemplified. After a time one gets so that at + night he can remove a marauding tick and cast it forth into the darkness + without even waking up. Fortunately ticks are local in distribution. Often + one may travel weeks or months without this infliction. + </p> + <p> + I was always interested and impressed to observe how indifferent the wild + animals seem to be to these insects. Zebra, rhinoceros and giraffe seem to + be especially good hosts. The loathsome creatures fasten themselves in + clusters wherever they can grip their fangs. Thus in a tick country a + zebra's ears, the lids and corners of his eyes, his nostrils and lips, the + soft skin between his legs and body, and between his hind legs, and under + his tail are always crusted with ticks as thick as they can cling. One + would think the drain on vitality would be enormous, but the animals are + always plump and in condition. The same state of affairs obtains with the + other two beasts named. The hartebeeste also carries ticks but not nearly + in the same abundance; while such creatures as the waterbuck, impalla, + gazelles and the smaller bucks seem either to be absolutely free from the + pests, or to have a very few. Whether this is because such animals take + the trouble to rid themselves, or because they are more immune from attack + it would be difficult to say. I have found ticks clinging to the hair of + lions, but never fastened to the flesh. It is probable that they had been + brushed off from the grass in passing. Perhaps ticks do not like lions, + waterbuck, Tommies, et al., or perhaps only big coarse-grained common + brutes like zebra and rhinos will stand them at all. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0020" id="link2H_4_0020"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XX. DIVERS ADVENTURES ALONG THE TANA + </h2> + <p> + Late one afternoon I shot a wart-hog in the tall grass. The beast was an + unusually fine specimen, so I instructed Fundi and the porters to take the + head, and myself started for camp with Memba Sasa. I had gone not over a + hundred yards when I was recalled by wild and agonized appeals of “Bwana! + bwana!” The long-legged Fundi was repeatedly leaping straight up in the + air to an astonishing height above the long grass, curling his legs up + under him at each jump, and yelling like a steam-engine. Returning + promptly, I found that the wart-hog had come to life at the first prick of + the knife. He was engaged in charging back and forth in an earnest effort + to tusk Fundi, and the latter was jumping high in an equally earnest + effort to keep out of the way. Fortunately he proved agile enough to do so + until I planted another bullet in the aggressor. + </p> + <p> + These wart-hogs are most comical brutes from whatever angle one views + them. They have a patriarchal, self-satisfied, suburban manner of complete + importance. The old gentleman bosses his harem outrageously, and each and + every member of the tribe walks about with short steps and a stuffy + parvenu small-town self-sufficiency. One is quite certain that it is only + by accident that they have long tusks and live in Africa, instead of + rubber-plants and self-made business and a pug-dog within commuters' + distance of New York. But at the slightest alarm this swollen and puffy + importance breaks down completely. Away they scurry, their tails held + stiffly and straightly perpendicular, their short legs scrabbling the + small stones in a frantic effort to go faster than nature had intended + them to go. Nor do they cease their flight at a reasonable distance, but + keep on going over hill and dale, until they fairly vanish in the blue. I + used to like starting them off this way, just for the sake of contrast, + and also for the sake of the delicious but impossible vision of seeing + their human prototypes do likewise. + </p> + <p> + When a wart-hog is at home, he lives down a hole. Of course it has to be a + particularly large hole. He turns around and backs down it. No more + peculiar sight can be imagined than the sardonically toothsome countenance + of a wart-hog fading slowly in the dimness of a deep burrow, a good deal + like Alice's Cheshire Cat. Firing a revolver, preferably with smoky black + powder, just in front of the hole annoys the wart-hog exceedingly. Out he + comes full tilt, bent on damaging some one, and it takes quick shooting to + prevent his doing so. + </p> + <p> + Once, many hundreds of miles south of the Tana, and many months later, we + were riding quite peaceably through the country, when we were startled by + the sound of a deep and continuous roaring in a small brush patch to our + left. We advanced cautiously to a prospective lion, only to discover that + the roaring proceeded from the depths of a wart-hog burrow. The + reverberation of our footsteps on the hollow ground had alarmed him. He + was a very nervous wart-hog. + </p> + <p> + On another occasion, when returning to camp from a solitary walk, I saw + two wart-hogs before they saw me. I made no attempt to conceal myself, but + stood absolutely motionless. They fed slowly nearer and nearer until at + last they were not over twenty yards away. When finally they made me out, + their indignation and amazement and utter incredulity were very funny. In + fact, they did not believe in me at all for some few snorty moments. + Finally they departed, their absurd tails stiff upright. + </p> + <p> + One afternoon F. and I, hunting along one of the wide grass bottom lands, + caught sight of a herd of an especially fine impalla. The animals were + feeding about fifty yards the other side of a small solitary bush, and the + bush grew on the sloping bank of the slight depression that represented + the dry stream bottom. We could duck down into the depression, sneak along + it, come up back of the little bush, and shoot from very close range. + Leaving the gunbearers, we proceeded to do this. + </p> + <p> + So quietly did we move that when we rose up back of the little bush a + lioness lying under it with her cub was as surprised as we were! + </p> + <p> + Indeed, I do not think she knew what we were, for instead of attacking, + she leaped out the other side the bush, uttering a startled snarl. At once + she whirled to come at us, but the brief respite had allowed us to recover + our own scattered wits. As she turned I caught her broadside through the + heart. Although this shot knocked her down, F. immediately followed it + with another for safety's sake. We found that actually we had just missed + stepping on her tail! + </p> + <p> + The cub we caught a glimpse of. He was about the size of a setter dog. We + tried hard to find him, but failed. The lioness was an unusually large + one, probably about as big as the female ever grows, measuring nine feet + six inches in length, and three feet eight inches tail at the shoulder. + </p> + <p> + Billy had her funny times housekeeping. The kitchen department never quite + ceased marvelling at her. Whenever she went to the cook-camp to deliver + her orders she was surrounded by an attentive and respectful audience. One + day, after holding forth for some time in Swahili, she found that she had + been standing hobnailed on one of the boy's feet. + </p> + <p> + “Why, Mahomet!” she cried. “That must hurt you! Why didn't you tell me?” + </p> + <p> + “Memsahib,” he smiled politely, “I think perhaps you move some time!” + </p> + <p> + On another occasion she was trying to tell the cook, through Mahomet as + interpreter, that she wanted a tough old buffalo steak pounded, + boarding-house style. This evidently puzzled all hands. They turned to in + an earnest discussion of what it was all about, anyway. Billy understood + Swahili well enough at that time to gather that they could not understand + the Memsahib's wanting the meat “kibokoed”—FLOGGED. Was it a religious + rite, or a piece of revenge? They gave it up. + </p> + <p> + “All right,” said Mahomet patiently at last. “He say he do it. WHICH ONE + IS IT?” + </p> + <p> + Part of our supplies comprised tins of dehydrated fruit. One evening Billy + decided to have a grand celebration, so she passed out a tin marked + “rhubarb” and some cornstarch, together with suitable instructions for a + fruit pudding. In a little while the cook returned. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + “Nataka m'tund-I want fruit,” said he. +</pre> + <p> + Billy pointed out, severely, that he already had fruit. He went away + shaking his head. Evening and the pudding came. It looked good, and we + congratulated Billy on her culinary enterprise. Being hungry, we took big + mouthfuls. There followed splutterings and investigations. The rhubarb can + proved to be an old one containing heavy gun grease! + </p> + <p> + When finally we parted with our faithful cook we bought him a really + wonderful many bladed knife as a present. On seeing it he slumped to the + ground-six feet of lofty dignity-and began to weep violently, rocking back + and forth in an excess of grief. + </p> + <p> + “Why, what is it?” we inquired, alarmed. + </p> + <p> + “Oh, Memsahib!” he wailed, the tears coursing down his cheeks, “I wanted a + watch!” + </p> + <p> + One morning about nine o'clock we were riding along at the edge of a + grass-grown savannah, with a low hill to our right and another about four + hundred yards ahead. Suddenly two rhinoceroses came to their feet some + fifty yards to our left out in the high grass, and stood looking + uncertainly in our direction. + </p> + <p> + “Look out! Rhinos!” I warned instantly. + </p> + <p> + “Why-why!” gasped Billy in an astonished tone of voice, “they have manes!” + </p> + <p> + In some concern for her sanity I glanced in her direction. She was + staring, not to her left, but straight ahead. I followed the direction of + her gaze, to see three lions moving across the face of the hill. + </p> + <p> + Instantly we dropped off our horses. We wanted a shot at those lions very + much indeed, but were hampered in our efforts by the two rhinoceroses, now + stamping, snorting, and moving slowly in our direction. The language we + muttered was racy, but we dropped to a kneeling position and opened fire + on the disappearing lions. It was most distinctly a case of divided + attention, one eye on those menacing rhinos, and one trying to attend to + the always delicate operation of aligning sights and signalling from a + rather distracted brain just when to pull the trigger. Our faithful + gunbearers crouched by us, the heavy guns ready. + </p> + <p> + One rhino seemed either peaceable or stupid. He showed no inclination + either to attack or to depart, but was willing to back whatever play his + friend might decide on. The friend charged toward us until we began to + think he meant battle, stopped, thought a moment, and then, followed by + his companion, trotted slowly across our bows about eighty yards away, + while we continued our long range practice at the lions over their backs. + </p> + <p> + In this we were not winning many cigars. F. had a 280-calibre rifle + shooting the Ross cartridge through the much advertised grooveless oval + bore. It was little accurate beyond a hundred yards. Memba Sasa had thrust + the 405 into my hand, knowing it for the “lion gun,” and kept just out of + reach with the long-range Springfield. I had no time to argue the matter + with him. The 405 has a trajectory like a rainbow at that distance, and I + was guessing at it, and not making very good guesses either. B. had his + Springfield and made closer practice, finally hitting a leg of one of the + beasts. We saw him lift his paw and shake it, but he did not move lamely + afterward, so the damage was probably confined to a simple scrape. It was + a good shot anyway. Then they disappeared over the top of the hill. + </p> + <p> + We walked forward, regretting rhinos. Thirty yards ahead of me came a + thunderous and roaring growl, and a magnificent old lion reared his head + from a low bush. He evidently intended mischief, for I could see his tail + switching. However, B. had killed only one lion and I wanted very much to + give him the shot. Therefore, I held the front sight on the middle of his + chest, and uttered a fervent wish to myself that B. would hurry up. In + about ten seconds the muzzle of his rifle poked over my shoulder, so I + resigned the job. + </p> + <p> + At B.'s shot the lion fell over, but was immediately up and trying to get + at us. Then we saw that his hind quarters were paralyzed. He was a most + magnificent sight as he reared his fine old head, roaring at us full + mouthed so that the very air trembled. Billy had a good look at a lion in + action. B. took up a commanding position on an ant hill to one side with + his rifle levelled. F. and I advanced slowly side by side. At twelve feet + from the wounded beast stopped, F. unlimbered the kodak, while I held the + bead of the 405 between the lion's eyes, ready to press trigger at the + first forward movement, however slight. Thus we took several exposures in + the two cameras. Unfortunately one of the cameras fell in the river the + next day. The other contained but one exposure. While not so spectacular + as some of those spoiled, it shows very well the erect mane, the wicked + narrowing of the eyes, the flattening of the ears of an angry lion. You + must imagine, furthermore, the deep rumbling diapason of his growling. + </p> + <p> + We backed away, and B. put in the finishing shot. The first bullet, we + then found, had penetrated the kidneys, thus inflicting a temporary + paralysis. + </p> + <p> + When we came to skin him we found an old-fashioned lead bullet between the + bones of his right forepaw. The entrance wound had so entirely healed over + that hardly the trace of a scar remained. From what I know of the + character of these beasts, I have no doubt that this ancient injury + furnished the reason for his staying to attack us instead of departing + with the other three lions over the hill. + </p> + <p> + Following the course of the river, we one afternoon came around a bend on + a huge herd of mixed game that had been down to water. The river, a quite + impassable barrier lay to our right, and an equally impassable precipitous + ravine barred their flight ahead. They were forced to cross our front, + quite close, within the hundred yards. We stopped to watch them go, a + seemingly endless file of them, some very much frightened, bounding + spasmodically as though stung; others more philosophical, loping easily + and unconcernedly; still others to a few-even stopping for a moment to get + a good view of us. The very young creatures, as always, bounced along + absolutely stiff-legged, exactly like wooden animals suspended by an + elastic, touching the ground and rebounding high, without a bend of the + knee nor an apparent effort of the muscles. Young animals seem to have to + learn how to bend their legs for the most efficient travel. The same is + true of human babies as well. In this herd were, we estimated, some four + or five hundred beasts. + </p> + <p> + While hunting near the foothills I came across the body of a large eagle + suspended by one leg from the crotch of a limb. The bird's talon had + missed its grip, probably on alighting, the tarsus had slipped through the + crotch beyond the joint, the eagle had fallen forward, and had never been + able to flop itself back to an upright position! + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0022" id="link2H_4_0022"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXI. THE RHINOCEROS + </h2> + <p> + The rhinoceros is, with the giraffe, the hippopotamus, the gerenuk, and + the camel, one of Africa's unbelievable animals. Nobody has bettered + Kipling's description of him in the Just-so Stories: “A horn on his nose, + piggy eyes, and few manners.” He lives a self-centred life, wrapped up in + the porcine contentment that broods within nor looks abroad over the land. + When anything external to himself and his food and drink penetrates to his + intelligence he makes a flurried fool of himself, rushing madly and + frantically here and there in a hysterical effort either to destroy or get + away from the cause of disturbance. He is the incarnation of a living and + perpetual Grouch. + </p> + <p> + Generally he lives by himself, sometimes with his spouse, more rarely + still with a third that is probably a grown-up son or daughter. I + personally have never seen more than three in company. Some observers have + reported larger bands, or rather collections, but, lacking other evidence, + I should be inclined to suspect that some circumstances of food or water + rather than a sense of gregariousness had attracted a number of + individuals to one locality. + </p> + <p> + The rhinoceros has three objects in life: to fill his stomach with food + and water, to stand absolutely motionless under a bush, and to imitate ant + hills when he lies down in the tall grass. When disturbed at any of these + occupations he snorts. The snort sounds exactly as though the safety valve + of a locomotive had suddenly opened and as suddenly shut again after two + seconds of escaping steam. Then he puts his head down and rushes madly in + some direction, generally upwind. As he weighs about two tons, and can, in + spite of his appearance, get over the ground nearly as fast as an ordinary + horse, he is a truly imposing sight, especially since the innocent + bystander generally happens to be upwind, and hence in the general path of + progress. This is because the rhino's scent is his keenest sense, and + through it he becomes aware, in the majority of times, of man's presence. + His sight is very poor indeed; he cannot see clearly even a moving object + much beyond fifty yards. He can, however, hear pretty well. + </p> + <p> + The novice, then, is subjected to what he calls a “vicious charge” on the + part of the rhinoceros, merely because his scent was borne to the beast + from upwind, and the rhino naturally runs away upwind. He opens fire, and + has another thrilling adventure to relate. As a matter of fact, if he had + approached from the other side, and then aroused the animal with a clod of + earth, the beast would probably have “charged” away in identically the + same direction. I am convinced from a fairly varied experience that this + is the basis for most of the thrilling experiences with rhinoceroses. + </p> + <p> + But whatever the beast's first mental attitude, the danger is quite real. + In the beginning he rushes, upwind in instinctive reaction against the + strange scent. If he catches sight of the man at all, it must be after he + has approached to pretty close range, for only at close range are the + rhino's eyes effective. Then he is quite likely to finish what was at + first a blind dash by a genuine charge. Whether this is from malice or + from the panicky feeling that he is now too close to attempt to get away, + I never was able determine. It is probably in the majority of cases the + latter. This seems indicated by the fact that the rhino, if avoided in his + first rush, will generally charge right through and keep on going. + Occasionally, however, he will whirl and come back to the attack. There + can then be no doubt that he actually intends mischief. + </p> + <p> + Nor must it be forgotten that with these animals, AS WITH ALL OTHERS, not + enough account is taken of individual variation. They, as well as man, and + as well as other animals, have their cowards, their fighters, their + slothful and their enterprising. And, too, there seem to be truculent and + peaceful districts. North of Mt. Kenia, between that peak and the Northern + Guaso Nyero River, we saw many rhinos, none of which showed the slightest + disposition to turn ugly. In fact, they were so peaceful that they + scrabbled off as fast as they could go every time they either scented, + heard, or SAW us; and in their flight they held their noses up, not down. + In the wide angle between the Tana and Thika rivers, and comprising the + Yatta Plains, and in the thickets of the Tsavo, the rhinoceroses generally + ran nose down in a position of attack and were much inclined to let their + angry passions master them at the sight of man. Thus we never had our + safari scattered by rhinoceroses in the former district, while in the + latter the boys were up trees six times in the course of one morning! Carl + Akeley, with a moving picture machine, could not tease a charge out of a + rhino in a dozen tries, while Dugmore, in a different part of the country, + was so chivied about that he finally left the district to avoid killing + any more of the brutes in self-defence! + </p> + <p> + The fact of the matter is that the rhinoceros is neither animated by the + implacable man-destroying passion ascribed to him by the amateur hunter, + nor is he so purposeless and haphazard in his rushes as some would have us + believe. On being disturbed his instinct is to get away. He generally + tries to get away in the direction of the disturbance, or upwind, as the + case may be. If he catches sight of the cause of disturbance he is apt to + try to trample and gore it, whatever it is. As his sight is short, he will + sometimes so inflict punishment on unoffending bushes. In doing this he is + probably not animated by a consuming destructive blind rage, but by a + naturally pugnacious desire to eliminate sources of annoyance. Missing a + definite object, he thunders right through and disappears without trying + again to discover what has aroused him. + </p> + <p> + This first rush is not a charge in the sense that it is an attack on a + definite object. It may not, and probably will not, amount to a charge at + all, for the beast will blunder through without ever defining more clearly + the object of his blind dash. That dash is likely, however, at any moment, + to turn into a definite charge should the rhinoceros happen to catch sight + of his disturber. Whether the impelling motive would then be a mistaken + notion that on the part of the beast he was so close he had to fight, or + just plain malice, would not matter. At such times the intended victim is + not interested in the rhino's mental processes. + </p> + <p> + Owing to his size, his powerful armament, and his incredible quickness the + rhinoceros is a dangerous animal at all times, to be treated with respect + and due caution. This is proved by the number of white men, out of a + sparse population, that are annually tossed and killed by the brutes, and + by the promptness with which the natives take to trees-thorn trees at + that!-when the cry of faru! is raised. As he comes rushing in your + direction, head down and long weapon pointed, tail rigidly erect, ears up, + the earth trembling with his tread and the air with his snorts, you + suddenly feel very small and ineffective. + </p> + <p> + If you keep cool, however, it is probable that the encounter will result + only in a lot of mental perturbation for the rhino and a bit of excitement + for yourself. If there is any cover you should duck down behind it and + move rapidly but quietly to one side or another of the line of advance. If + there is no cover, you should crouch low and hold still. The chances are + he will pass to one side or the other of you, and go snorting away into + the distance. Keep your eye on him very closely. If he swerves definitely + in your direction, AND DROPS HIS HEAD A LITTLE LOWER, it would be just as + well to open fire. Provided the beast was still far enough away to give me + “sea-room,” I used to put a small bullet in the flesh of the outer part of + the shoulder. The wound thus inflicted was not at all serious, but the + shock of the bullet usually turned the beast. This was generally in the + direction of the wounded shoulder, which would indicate that the brute + turned toward the apparent source of the attack, probably for the purpose + of getting even. At any rate, the shot turned the rush to one side, and + the rhinoceros, as usual, went right on through. If, however, he seemed to + mean business, or was too close for comfort, the point to aim for was the + neck just above the lowered horn. + </p> + <p> + In my own experience I came to establish a “dead line” about twenty yards + from myself. That seemed to be as near as I cared to let the brutes come. + Up to that point I let them alone on the chance that they might swerve or + change their minds, as they often did. But inside of twenty yards, whether + the rhinoceros meant to charge me, or was merely running blindly by, did + not particularly matter. Even in the latter case he might happen to catch + sight of me and change his mind. Thus, looking over my notebook records, I + find that I was “charged” forty odd times-that is to say, the rhinoceros + rushed in my general direction. Of this lot I can be sure of but three, + and possibly four, that certainly meant mischief. Six more came so + directly at us, and continued so to come, that in spite of ourselves we + were compelled to kill them. The rest were successfully dodged. + </p> + <p> + As I have heard old hunters of many times my experience, affirm that only + in a few instances have they themselves been charged indubitably and with + malice aforethought, it might be well to detail my reasons for believing + myself definitely and not blindly attacked. + </p> + <p> + The first instance was that when B. killed his second trophy rhinoceros. + The beast's companion refused to leave the dead body for a long time, but + finally withdrew. On our approaching, however, and after we had been some + moments occupied with the trophy, it returned and charged viciously. It + was finally killed at fifteen yards. + </p> + <p> + The second instance was of a rhinoceros that got up from the grass sixty + yards away, and came headlong in my direction. At the moment I was + standing on the edge of a narrow eroded ravine, ten feet deep, with + perpendicular sides. The rhinoceros came on bravely to the edge of this + ravine-and stopped. Then he gave an exhibition of unmitigated bad temper + most amusing to contemplate-from my safe position. He snorted, and + stamped, and pawed the earth, and tramped up and down at a great rate. I + sat on the opposite bank and laughed at him. This did not please him a + bit, but after many short rushes to the edge of the ravine, he gave it up + and departed slowly, his tail very erect and rigid. From the persistency + with which he tried to get at me, I cannot but think he intended something + of the sort from the first. + </p> + <p> + The third instance was much more aggravating. In company with Memba Sasa + and Fundi I left camp early one morning to get a waterbuck. Four or five + hundred yards out, however, we came on fresh buffalo signs, not an hour + old. To one who knew anything of buffaloes' habits this seemed like an + excellent chance, for at this time of the morning they should be feeding + not far away preparatory to seeking cover for the day. Therefore we + immediately took up the trail. + </p> + <p> + It led us over hills, through valleys, high grass, burned country, brush, + thin scrub, and small woodland alternately. Unfortunately we had happened + on these buffalo just as they were about changing district, and they were + therefore travelling steadily. At times the trail was easy to follow and + at other times we had to cast about very diligently to find traces of the + direction even such huge animals had taken. It was interesting work, + however, and we drew on steadily, keeping a sharp lookout ahead in case + the buffalo had come to a halt in some shady thicket out of the sun. As + the latter ascended the heavens and the scorching heat increased, our + confidence in nearing our quarry ascended likewise, for we knew that + buffaloes do not like great heat. Nevertheless this band continued + straight on its way. I think now they must have got scent of our camp, and + had therefore decided to move to one of the alternate and widely separated + feeding grounds every herd keeps in its habitat. Only at noon, and after + six hours of steady trailing, covering perhaps a dozen miles, did we catch + them up. + </p> + <p> + From the start we had been bothered with rhinoceroses. Five times did we + encounter them, standing almost squarely on the line of the spoor we were + following. Then we had to make a wide quiet circle to leeward in order to + avoid disturbing them, and were forced to a very minute search in order to + pick up the buffalo tracks again on the other side. This was at once an + anxiety and a delay, and we did not love those rhino. + </p> + <p> + Finally, at the very edge of the Yatta Plains we overtook the herd, + resting for noon in a scattered thicket. Leaving Fundi, I, with Memba + Sasa, stalked down to them. We crawled and crept by inches flat to the + ground, which was so hot that it fairly burned the hand. The sun beat down + on us fiercely, and the air was close and heavy even among the scanty + grass tufts in which we were trying to get cover. It was very hard work + indeed, but after a half hour of it we gained a thin bush not over thirty + yards from a half dozen dark and indeterminate bodies dozing in the very + centre of a brush patch. Cautiously I wiped the sweat from my eyes and + raised my glasses. It was slow work and patient work, picking out and + examining each individual beast from the mass. Finally the job was done. I + let fall my glasses. + </p> + <p> + “Monumookee y'otey-all cows,” I whispered to Memba Sasa. + </p> + <p> + We backed out of there inch by inch, with intention of circling a short + distance to the leeward, and then trying the herd again lower down. But + some awkward slight movement, probably on my part, caught the eye of one + of those blessed cows. She threw up her head; instantly the whole thicket + seemed alive with beasts. We could hear them crashing and stamping, + breaking the brush, rushing headlong and stopping again; we could even + catch momentary glimpses of dark bodies. After a few minutes we saw the + mass of the herd emerge from the thicket five hundred yards away and flow + up over the hill. There were probably a hundred and fifty of them, and, + looking through my glasses, I saw among them two fine old bulls. They were + of course not much alarmed, as only the one cow knew what it was all about + anyway, and I suspected they would stop at the next thicket. + </p> + <p> + We had only one small canteen of water with us, but we divided that. It + probably did us good, but the quantity was not sufficient to touch our + thirst. For the remainder of the day we suffered rather severely, as the + sun was fierce. + </p> + <p> + After a short interval we followed on after the buffaloes. Within a half + mile beyond the crest of the hill over which they had disappeared was + another thicket. At the very edge of the thicket, asleep under an outlying + bush, stood one of the big bulls! + </p> + <p> + Luck seemed with us at last. The wind was right, and between us and the + bull lay only four hundred yards of knee-high grass. All we had to do was + to get down on our hands and knees, and, without further precautions, + crawl up within range and pot him. That meant only a bit of hard, hot + work. + </p> + <p> + When we were about halfway a rhinoceros suddenly arose from the grass + between us and the buffalo, and about one hundred yards away. + </p> + <p> + What had aroused him, at that distance and upwind, I do not know. It + hardly seemed possible that he could have heard us, for we were moving + very quietly, and, as I say, we were downwind. However, there he was on + his feet, sniffing now this way, now that, in search for what had alarmed + him. We sank out of sight and lay low, fully expecting that the brute + would make off. + </p> + <p> + For just twenty-five minutes by the watch that rhinoceros looked and + looked deliberately in all directions while we lay hidden waiting for him + to get over it. Sometimes he would start off quite confidently for fifty + or sixty yards, so that we thought at last we were rid of him, but always + he returned to the exact spot where we had first seen him, there to stamp, + and blow. The buffalo paid no attention to these manifestations. I suppose + everybody in jungleland is accustomed to rhinoceros bad temper over + nothing. Twice he came in our direction, but both times gave it up after + advancing twenty-five yards or so. We lay flat on our faces, the vertical + sun slowly roasting us, and cursed that rhino. + </p> + <p> + Now the significance of this incident is twofold: first, the fact that, + instead of rushing off at the first intimation of our presence, as would + the average rhino, he went methodically to work to find us; second, that + he displayed such remarkable perseverance as to keep at it nearly a half + hour. This was a spirit quite at variance with that finding its expression + in the blind rush or in the sudden passionate attack. From that point of + view it seems to me that the interest and significance of the incident can + hardly be overstated. + </p> + <p> + Four or five times we thought ourselves freed of the nuisance, but always, + just as we were about to move on, back he came, as eager as ever to nose + us out. Finally he gave it up, and, at a slow trot, started to go away + from there. And out of the three hundred and sixty degrees of the circle + where he might have gone he selected just our direction. Note that this + was downwind for him, and that rhinoceroses usually escape upwind. + </p> + <p> + We laid very low, hoping that, as before, he would change his mind as to + direction. But now he was no longer looking, but travelling. Nearer and + nearer he came. We could see plainly his little eyes, and hear the regular + swish, swish, swish of his thick legs brushing through the grass. The + regularity of his trot never varied, but to me lying there directly in his + path, he seemed to be coming on altogether too fast for comfort. From our + low level he looked as big as a barn. Memba Sasa touched me lightly on the + leg. I hated to shoot, but finally when he loomed fairly over us I saw it + must be now or never. If I allowed him to come closer, he must indubitably + catch the first movement of my gun and so charge right on us before I + would have time to deliver even an ineffective shot. Therefore, most + reluctantly, I placed the ivory bead of the great Holland gun just to the + point of his shoulder and pulled the trigger. So close was he that as he + toppled forward I instinctively, though unnecessarily of course, shrank + back as though he might fall on me. Fortunately I had picked my spot + properly, and no second shot was necessary. He fell just twenty-seven + feet-nine yards—from where we lay! + </p> + <p> + The buffalo vanished into the blue. We were left with a dead rhino, which + we did not want, twelve miles from camp, and no water. It was a hard hike + back, but we made it finally, though nearly perished from thirst. + </p> + <p> + This beast, be it noted, did not charge us at all, but I consider him as + one of the three undoubtedly animated by hostile intentions. Of the others + I can, at this moment, remember five that might or might not have been + actually and maliciously charging when they were killed or dodged. I am no + mind reader for rhinoceros. Also I am willing to believe in their entirely + altruistic intentions. Only, if they want to get the practical results of + their said altruistic intentions they must really refrain from coming + straight at me nearer than twenty yards. It has been stated that if one + stands perfectly still until the rhinoceros is just six feet away, and + then jumps sideways, the beast will pass him. I never happened to meet + anybody who had acted on this theory. I suppose that such exist: though I + doubt if any persistent exponent of the art is likely to exist long. + Personally I like my own method, and stoutly maintain that within twenty + yards it is up to the rhinoceros to begin to do the dodging. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0023" id="link2H_4_0023"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXII. THE RHINOCEROS-(continued) + </h2> + <p> + At first the traveller is pleased and curious over rhinoceros. After he + has seen and encountered eight or ten, he begins to look upon them as an + unmitigated nuisance. By the time he has done a week in thick + rhino-infested scrub he gets fairly to hating them. + </p> + <p> + They are bad enough in the open plains, where they can be seen and + avoided, but in the tall grass or the scrub they are a continuous anxiety. + No cover seems small enough to reveal them. Often they will stand or lie + absolutely immobile until you are within a very short distance, and then + will outrageously break out. They are, in spite of their clumsy build, as + quick and active as polo ponies, and are the only beasts I know of capable + of leaping into full speed ahead from a recumbent position. In thorn scrub + they are the worst, for there, no matter how alert the traveller may hold + himself, he is likely to come around a bush smack on one. And a dozen + times a day the throat-stopping, abrupt crash and smash to right or left + brings him up all standing, his heart racing, the blood pounding through + his veins. It is jumpy work, and is very hard on the temper. In the + natural reaction from being startled into fits one snaps back to + profanity. The cumulative effects of the epithets hurled after a departing + and inconsiderately hasty rhinoceros may have done something toward + ruining the temper of the species. It does not matter whether or not the + individual beast proves dangerous; he is inevitably most startling. I have + come in at night with my eyes fairly aching from spying for rhinos during + a day's journey through high grass. + </p> + <p> + And, as a friend remarked, rhinos are such a mussy death. One poor chap, + killed while we were away on our first trip, could not be moved from the + spot where he had been trampled. A few shovelfuls of earth over the + remains was all the rhinoceros had left possible. + </p> + <p> + Fortunately, in the thick stuff especially, it is often possible to avoid + the chance rhinoceros through the warning given by the rhinoceros birds. + These are birds about the size of a robin that accompany the beast + everywhere. They sit in a row along his back occupying themselves with + ticks and a good place to roost. Always they are peaceful and quiet until + a human being approaches. Then they flutter a few feet into the air + uttering a peculiar rapid chattering. Writers with more sentiment than + sense of proportion assure us that this warns the rhinoceros of + approaching danger! On the contrary, I always looked at it the other way. + The rhinoceros birds thereby warned ME of danger, and I was duly thankful. + </p> + <p> + The safari boys stand quite justly in a holy awe of the rhino. The safari + is strung out over a mile or two of country, as a usual thing, and a + downwind rhino is sure to pierce some part of the line in his rush. Then + down go the loads with a smash, and up the nearest trees swarm the boys. + Usually their refuges are thorn trees, armed, even on the main trunk, with + long sharp spikes. There is no difficulty in going up, but the gingerly + coming down, after all the excitement has died, is a matter of + deliberation and of voices uplifted in woe. Cuninghame tells of an + inadequate slender and springy, but solitary, sapling into which swarmed + half his safari on the advent of a rambunctious rhino. The tree swayed and + bent and cracked alarmingly, threatening to dump the whole lot on the + ground. At each crack the boys yelled. This attracted the rhinoceros, + which immediately charged the tree full tilt. He hit square, the tree + shivered and creaked, the boys wound their arms and legs around the + slender support and howled frantically. Again and again rhinoceros drew + back to repeat his butting of that tree. By the time Cuninghame reached + the spot, the tree, with its despairing burden of black birds, was + clinging to the soil by its last remaining roots. + </p> + <p> + In the Nairobi Club I met a gentleman with one arm gone at the shoulder. + He told his story in a slightly bored and drawling voice, picking his + words very carefully, and evidently most occupied with neither + understating nor overstating the case. It seems he had been out, and had + killed some sort of a buck. While his men were occupied with this, he + strolled on alone to see what he could find. He found a rhinoceros, that + charged viciously, and into which he emptied his gun. + </p> + <p> + “When I came to,” he said, “it was just coming on dusk, and the lions were + beginning to grunt. My arm was completely crushed, and I was badly bruised + and knocked about. As near as I could remember I was fully ten miles from + camp. A circle of carrion birds stood all about me not more than ten feet + away, and a great many others were flapping over me and fighting in the + air. These last were so close that I could feel the wind from their wings. + It was rawther gruesome.” He paused and thought a a moment, as though + weighing his words. “In fact,” he added with an air of final conviction, + “it was QUITE gruesome!” + </p> + <p> + The most calm and imperturbable rhinoceros I ever saw was one that made us + a call on the Thika River. It was just noon, and our boys were making camp + after a morning's march. The usual racket was on, and the usual varied + movement of rather confused industry. Suddenly silence fell. We came out + of the tent to see the safari gazing spellbound in one direction. There + was a rhinoceros wandering peaceably over the little knoll back of camp, + and headed exactly in our direction. While we watched, he strolled through + the edge of camp, descended the steep bank to the river's edge, drank, + climbed the bank, strolled through camp again and departed over the hill. + To us he paid not the slightest attention. It seems impossible to believe + that he neither scented nor saw any evidences of human life in all that + populated flat, especially when one considers how often these beasts will + SEEM to become aware of man's presence by telepathy.* Perhaps he was the + one exception to the whole race, and was a good-natured rhino. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Opposing theories are those of “instinct,” and of slight + causes, such a grasshoppers leaping before the hunter's + feet, not noticed by the man approaching. +</pre> + <p> + The babies are astonishing and amusing creatures, with blunt noses on + which the horns are just beginning to form, and with even fewer manners + than their parents. The mere fact of an 800-pound baby does not cease to + be curious. They are truculent little creatures, and sometimes rather hard + to avoid when they get on the warpath. Generally, as far as my observation + goes, the mother gives birth to but one at a time. There may be occasional + twin births, but I happen never to have met so interesting a family. + </p> + <p> + Rhinoceroses are still very numerous-too numerous. I have seen as many as + fourteen in two hours, and probably could have found as many more if I had + been searching for them. There is no doubt, however, that this species + must be the first to disappear of the larger African animals. His great + size combined with his 'orrid 'abits mark him for early destruction. No + such dangerous lunatic can be allowed at large in a settled country, nor + in a country where men are travelling constantly. The species will + probably be preserved in appropriate restricted areas. It would be a great + pity to have so perfect an example of the Prehistoric Pinhead wiped out + completely. Elsewhere he will diminish, and finally disappear. + </p> + <p> + For one thing, and for one thing only, is the traveller indebted to the + rhinoceros. The beast is lazy, large, and has an excellent eye for easy + ways through. For this reason, as regards the question of good roads, he + combines the excellent qualities of Public Sentiment, the Steam Roller, + and the Expert Engineer. Through thorn thickets impenetrable to anything + less armoured than a Dreadnaught like himself he clears excellent paths. + Down and out of eroded ravines with perpendicular sides he makes excellent + wide trails, tramped hard, on easy grades, often with zigzags to ease the + slant. In some of the high country where the torrential rains wash + hundreds of such gullies across the line of march it is hardly an + exaggeration to say that travel would be practically impossible without + the rhino trails wherewith to cross. Sometimes the perpendicular banks + will extend for miles without offering any natural break down to the + stream-bed. Since this is so I respectfully submit to Government the + following proposal: + </p> + <p> + (a) That a limited number of these beasts shall be licensed as Trail + Rhinos; and that all the rest shall be killed from the settled and + regularly travelled districts. + </p> + <p> + (b) That these Trail Rhinos shall be suitably hobbled by short steel + chains. + </p> + <p> + (c) That each Trail Rhino shall carry painted conspicuously on his side + his serial number. + </p> + <p> + (d) That as a further precaution for public safety each Trail Rhino shall + carry firmly attached to his tail a suitable red warning flag. Thus the + well-known habit of the rhinoceros of elevating his tail rigidly when + about to charge, or when in the act of charging, will fly the flag as a + warning to travellers. + </p> + <p> + (e) That an official shall be appointed to be known as the Inspector of + Rhinos whose duty it shall be to examine the hobbles, numbers and flags of + all Trail Rhinos, and to keep the same in due working order and repair. + </p> + <p> + And I do submit to all and sundry that the above resolutions have as much + sense to them as have most of the petitions submitted to Government by + settlers in a new country. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0024" id="link2H_4_0024"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXIII. THE HIPPO POOL + </h2> + <p> + For a number of days we camped in a grove just above a dense jungle and + not fifty paces from the bank of a deep and wide river. We could at + various points push through light low undergrowth, or stoop beneath clear + limbs, or emerge on tiny open banks and promontories to look out over the + width of the stream. The river here was some three or four hundred feet + wide. It cascaded down through various large boulders and sluiceways to + fall bubbling and boiling into deep water; it then flowed still and + sluggish for nearly a half mile and finally divided into channels around a + number of wooded islands of different sizes. In the long still stretch + dwelt about sixty hippopotamuses of all sizes. + </p> + <p> + During our stay these hippos led a life of alarmed and angry care. When we + first arrived they were distributed picturesquely on banks or sandbars, or + were lying in midstream. At once they disappeared under water. By the end + of four or five minutes they began to come to the surface. Each beast took + one disgusted look, snorted, and sank again. So hasty was his action that + he did not even take time to get a full breath; consequently up he had to + come in not more than two minutes, this time. The third submersion lasted + less than a minute; and at the end of half hour of yelling we had the + hippos alternating between the bottom of the river and the surface of the + water about as fast as they could make a round trip, blowing like + porpoises. It was a comical sight. And as some of the boys were always out + watching the show, those hippos had no respite during the daylight hours. + From a short distance inland the explosive blowing as they came to the + surface sounded like the irregular exhaust of a steam-engine. + </p> + <p> + We camped at this spot four days; and never, in that length of time, + during the daytime, did those hippopotamuses take any recreation and rest. + To be sure after a little they calmed down sufficiently to remain on the + surface for a half minute or so, instead of gasping a mouthful of air and + plunging below at once; but below was where they considered they belonged + most of the time. We got to recognize certain individuals. They would + stare at us fixedly for a while; and then would glump down out of sight + like submarines. + </p> + <p> + When I saw them thus floating with only the very top of the head and snout + out of water, I for the first time appreciated why the Greeks had named + them hippopotamuses-the river horses. With the heavy jowl hidden; and the + prominent nostrils, the long reverse-curved nose, the wide eyes, and the + little pointed ears alone visible, they resembled more than a little that + sort of conventionalized and noble charger seen on the frieze of the + Parthenon, or in the prancy paintings of the Renaissance. + </p> + <p> + There were hippopotamuses of all sizes and of all colours. The little + ones, not bigger than a grand piano, were of flesh pink. Those half-grown + were mottled with pink and black in blotches. The adults were almost + invariably all dark, though a few of them retained still a small pink spot + or so-a sort of persistence in mature years of the eternal boy-, I + suppose. All were very sleek and shiny with the wet; and they had a + fashion of suddenly and violently wiggling one or the other or both of + their little ears in ridiculous contrast to the fixed stare of their bung + eyes. Generally they had nothing to say as to the situation, though + occasionally some exasperated old codger would utter a grumbling bellow. + </p> + <p> + The ground vegetation for a good quarter mile from the river bank was + entirely destroyed, and the earth beaten and packed hard by these animals. + Landing trails had been made leading out from the water by easy and + regular grades. These trails were about two feet wide and worn a foot or + so deep. They differed from the rhino trails, from which they could be + easily distinguished, in that they showed distinctly two parallel tracks + separated from each other by a slight ridge. In other words, the hippo + waddles. These trails we found as far as four and five miles inland. They + were used, of course, only at night; and led invariably to lush and heavy + feed. While we were encamped there, the country on our side the river was + not used by our particular herd of hippos. One night, however, we were + awakened by a tremendous rending crash of breaking bushes, followed by an + instant's silence and then the outbreak of a babel of voices. Then we + heard a prolonged sw-i-sh-sh-sh, exactly like the launching of a big boat. + A hippo had blundered out the wrong side the river, and fairly into our + camp. + </p> + <p> + In rivers such as the Tana these great beasts are most extraordinarily + abundant. Directly in front of our camp, for example, were three separate + herds which contained respectively about sixty, forty, and twenty-five + head. Within two miles below camp were three other big pools each with its + population; while a walk of a mile above showed about as many more. This + sort of thing obtained for practically the whole length of the + river-hundreds of miles. Furthermore, every little tributary stream, no + matter how small, provided it can muster a pool or so deep enough to + submerge so large an animal, has its faithful band. I have known of a + hippo quite happily occupying a ditch pool ten feet wide and fifteen feet + long. There was literally not room enough for the beast to turn around; he + had to go in at one end and out at the other! Each lake, too, is alive + with them; and both lakes and rivers are many. + </p> + <p> + Nobody disturbs hippos, save for trophies and an occasional supply of meat + for the men or of cooking fat for the kitchen. Therefore they wax fat and + sassy, and will long continue to flourish in the land. + </p> + <p> + It takes time to kill a hippo, provided one is wanted. The mark is small, + and generally it is impossible to tell whether or not the bullet has + reached the brain. Harmed or whole the beast sinks anyway. Some hours + later the distention of the stomach will float the body. Therefore the + only decent way to do is to take the shot, and then wait a half day to see + whether or not you have missed. There are always plenty of volunteers in + camp to watch the pool, for the boys are extravagantly fond of hippo meat. + Then it is necessary to manoeuvre a rope on the carcass, often a matter of + great difficulty, for the other hippos bellow and snort and try to live up + to the circus posters of the Blood-sweating Behemoth of Holy Writ, and the + crocodiles like dark meat very much. Usually one offers especial reward to + volunteers, and shoots into the water to frighten the beasts. The + volunteer dashes rapidly across the shallows, makes a swift plunge, and + clambers out on the floating body as onto a raft. + </p> + <p> + Then he makes fast the rope, and everybody tails on and tows the whole + outfit ashore. On one occasion the volunteer produced a fish line and + actually caught a small fish from the floating carcass! This sounds like a + good one; but I saw it with my own two eyes. + </p> + <p> + It was at the hippo pool camp that we first became acquainted with Funny + Face. + </p> + <p> + Funny Face was the smallest, furriest little monkey you ever saw. I never + cared for monkeys before; but this one was altogether engaging. He had + thick soft fur almost like that on a Persian cat, and a tiny human black + face, and hands that emerged from a ruff; and he was about as big as + old-fashioned dolls used to be before they began to try to imitate real + babies with them. That is to say, he was that big when we said farewell to + him. When we first knew him, had he stood in a half pint measure he could + just have seen over the rim. We caught him in a little thorn ravine all by + himself, a fact that perhaps indicates that his mother had been killed, or + perhaps that he, like a good little Funny Face, was merely staying where + he was told while she was away. At any rate he fought savagely, according + to his small powers. We took him ignominiously by the scruff of the neck, + haled him to camp, and dumped him down on Billy. Billy constructed him a + beautiful belt by sacrificing part of a kodak strap (mine), and tied him + to a chop box filled with dry grass. Thenceforth this became Funny Face's + castle, at home and on the march. + </p> + <p> + Within a few hours his confidence in life was restored. He accepted small + articles of food from our hands, eyeing us intently, retired and examined + them. As they all proved desirable, he rapidly came to the conclusion that + these new large strange monkeys, while not so beautiful and agile as his + own people, were nevertheless a good sort after all. Therefore he took us + into his confidence. By next day he was quite tame, would submit to being + picked up without struggling, and had ceased trying to take an end off our + various fingers. In fact when the finger was presented, he would seize it + in both small black hands; convey it to his mouth; give it several mild + and gentle love-chews; and then, clasping it with all four hands, would + draw himself up like a little athlete and seat himself upright on the + outspread palm. Thence he would survey the world, wrinkling up his tiny + brow. + </p> + <p> + This chastened and scholarly attitude of mind lasted for four or five + days. Then Funny Face concluded that he understood all about it, had + settled satisfactorily to himself all the problems of the world and his + relations to it, and had arrived at a good working basis for life. + Therefore these questions ceased to occupy him. He dismissed them from his + mind completely, and gave himself over to light-hearted frivolity. + </p> + <p> + His disposition was flighty but full of elusive charm. You deprecated his + lack of serious purpose in life, disapproved heartily of his + irresponsibility, but you fell to his engaging qualities. He was a typical + example of the lovable good-for-naught. Nothing retained his attention for + two consecutive minutes. If he seized a nut and started for his chop box + with it, the chances were he would drop it and forget all about it in the + interest excited by a crawling ant or the colour of a flower. His elfish + face was always alight with the play of emotions and of flashing changing + interests. He was greatly given to starting off on very important errands, + which he forgot before he arrived. + </p> + <p> + In this he contrasted strangely with his friend Darwin. Darwin was another + monkey of the same species, caught about a week later. Darwin's face was + sober and pondering, and his methods direct and effective. No side + excursions into the brilliant though evanescent fields of fancy diverted + him from his ends. These were, generally, to get the most and best food + and the warmest corner for sleep. When he had acquired a nut, a kernel of + corn, or a piece of fruit, he sat him down and examined it thoroughly and + conscientiously and then, conscientiously and thoroughly, he devoured it. + No extraneous interest could distract his attention; not for a moment. + That he had sounded the seriousness of life is proved by the fact that he + had observed and understood the flighty character of Funny Face. When + Funny Face acquired a titbit, Darwin took up a hump-backed position near + at hand, his bright little eyes fixed on his friend's activities. Funny + Face would nibble relishingly at his prune for a moment or so; then an + altogether astonishing butterfly would flitter by just overhead. Funny + Face, lost in ecstasy would gaze skyward after the departing marvel. This + was Darwin's opportunity. In two hops he was at Funny Face's side. With + great deliberation, but most businesslike directness, Darwin disengaged + Funny Face's unresisting fingers from the prune, seized it, and retired. + Funny Face never knew it; his soul was far away after the blazoned wonder, + and when it returned, it was not to prunes at all. They were forgotten, + and his wandering eye focussed back to a bright button in the grass. Thus + by strict attention to business did Darwin prosper. + </p> + <p> + Darwin's attitude was always serious, and his expression grave. When he + condescended to romp with Funny Face one could see that it was not for the + mere joy of sport, but for the purposes of relaxation. If offered a gift + he always examined it seriously before finally accepting it, turning it + over and over in his hands, and considering it with wrinkled brow. If you + offered anything to Funny Face, no matter what, he dashed up, seized it on + the fly, departed at speed uttering grateful low chatterings; probably + dropped and forgot it in the excitement of something new before he had + even looked to see what it was. + </p> + <p> + “These people,” said Darwin to himself, “on the whole, and as an average, + seem to give me appropriate and pleasing gifts. To be sure, it is always + well to see that they don't try to bunco me with olive stones or such + worthless trash, but still I believe they are worth cultivating and + standing in with.” + </p> + <p> + “It strikes me,” observed Funny Face to himself, “that my adorable + Memsahib and my beloved bwana have been very kind to me to-day, though I + don't remember precisely how. But I certainly do love them!” + </p> + <p> + We cut good sized holes on each of the four sides of their chop box to + afford them ventilation on the march. The box was always carried on one of + the safari boy's heads: and Funny Face and Darwin gazed forth with great + interest. It was very amusing to see the big negro striding jauntily along + under his light burden; the large brown winking eyes glued to two of the + apertures. When we arrived in camp and threw the box cover open, they + hopped forth, shook themselves, examined their immediate surroundings and + proceeded to take a little exercise. When anything alarmed them, such as + the shadow of a passing hawk, they skittered madly up the nearest thing in + sight-tent pole, tree, or human form— and scolded indignantly or + chittered in a low tone according to the degree of their terror. When + Funny Face was very young, indeed, the grass near camp caught fire. After + the excitement was over we found him completely buried in the straw of his + box, crouched, and whimpering like a child. As he could hardly, at his + tender age, have had any previous experience with fire, this instinctive + fear was to me very interesting. + </p> + <p> + The monkeys had only one genuine enemy. That was an innocent plush lion + named Little Simba. It had been given us in joke before we left + California, we had tucked it into an odd corner of our trunk, had + discovered it there, carried it on safari out of sheer idleness, and lo! + it had become an important member of the expedition. Every morning Mahomet + or Yusuf packed it-or rather him-carefully away in the tin box. Promptly + at the end of the day's march Little Simba was haled forth and set in a + place of honour in the centre of the table, and reigned there-or sometimes + in a little grass jungle constructed by his faithful servitors-until the + march was again resumed. His job in life was to look after our hunting + luck. When he failed to get us what we wanted, he was punished; when he + procured us what we desired he was rewarded by having his tail sewed on + afresh, or by being presented with new black thread whiskers, or even a + tiny blanket of Mericani against the cold. This last was an especial + favour for finally getting us the greater kudu. Naturally as we did all + this in the spirit of an idle joke our rewards and punishments were rather + desultory. To our surprise, however, we soon found that our boys took + Little Simba quite seriously. He was a fetish, a little god, a power of + good or bad luck. We did not appreciate this point until one evening, + after a rather disappointing day, Mahomet came to us bearing Little Simba + in his hand. + </p> + <p> + “Bwana,” said he respectfully, “is it enough that I shut Simba in the tin + box, or do you wish to flog him?” + </p> + <p> + On one very disgraceful occasion, when everything went wrong, we plucked + Little Simba from his high throne and with him made a beautiful drop-kick + out into the tall grass. There, in a loud tone of voice, we sternly bade + him lie until the morrow. The camp was bung-eyed. It is not given to every + people to treat its gods in such fashion: indeed, in very deed, great is + the white man! To be fair, having published Little Simba's disgrace, we + should publish also Little Simba's triumph: to tell how, at the end of a + certain very lucky three months' safari he was perched atop a pole and + carried into town triumphantly at the head of a howling, singing + procession of a hundred men. He returned to America, and now, having + retired from active professional life, is leading an honoured old age + among the trophies he helped to procure. + </p> + <p> + Funny Face first met Little Simba when on an early investigating tour. + With considerable difficulty he had shinnied up the table leg, and had + hoisted himself over the awkwardly projecting table edge. When almost + within reach of the fascinating affairs displayed atop, he looked straight + up into the face of Little Simba! Funny Face shrieked aloud, let go all + holds and fell off flat on his back. Recovering immediately, he climbed + just as high as he could, and proceeded, during the next hour, to relieve + his feelings by the most insulting chatterings and grimaces. He never + recovered from this initial experience. All that was necessary to evoke + all sorts of monkey talk was to produce Little Simba. Against his benign + plush front then broke a storm of remonstrance. He became the object of + slow advances and sudden scurrying, shrieking retreats, that lasted just + as long as he stayed there, and never got any farther than a certain quite + conservative point. Little Simba did not mind. He was too busy being a + god. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0025" id="link2H_4_0025"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXIV. BUFFALO + </h2> + <p> + The Cape Buffalo is one of the four dangerous kinds of African big game; + of which the other three are the lion, the rhinoceros, and the elephant. + These latter are familiar to us in zoological gardens, although the + African and larger form of the rhinoceros and elephant are seldom or never + seen in captivity. But buffaloes are as yet unrepresented in our living + collections. They are huge beasts, tremendous from any point of view, + whether considered in height, in mass, or in power. At the shoulder they + stand from just under five feet to just under six feet in height; they are + short legged, heavy bodied bull necked, thick in every dimension. In + colour they are black as to hair, and slate gray as to skin; so that the + individual impression depends on the thickness of the coat. They wear + their horns parted in the middle, sweeping smoothly away in the curves of + two great bosses either side the head. A good trophy will measure in + spread from forty inches to four feet. Four men will be required to carry + in the head alone. As buffaloes when disturbed or suspicious have a habit + of thrusting their noses up and forward, that position will cling to one's + memory as the most typical of the species. + </p> + <p> + A great many hunters rank the buffalo first among the dangerous beasts. + This is not my own opinion, but he is certainly dangerous enough. He + possesses the size, power, and truculence of the rhinoceros, together with + all that animal's keenness of scent and hearing but with a sharpness of + vision the rhinoceros has not. While not as clever as either the lion or + the elephant, he is tricky enough when angered to circle back for the + purpose of attacking his pursuers in the rear or flank, and to arrange + rather ingenious ambushes for the same purpose. He is rather more + tenacious of life than the rhinoceros, and will carry away an + extraordinary quantity of big bullets. Add to these considerations the + facts that buffaloes go in herds; and that, barring luck, chances are + about even they will have to be followed into the thickest cover, it can + readily be seen that their pursuit is exciting. + </p> + <p> + The problem would be simplified were one able or willing to slip into the + thicket or up to the grazing herd and kill the nearest beast that offers. + As a matter of fact an ordinary herd will contain only two or three bulls + worth shooting; and it is the hunter's delicate task to glide and crawl + here and there, with due regard for sight, scent and sound, until he has + picked one of these from the scores of undesirables. Many times will he + worm his way by inches toward the great black bodies half defined in the + screen of thick undergrowth only to find that he has stalked cows or small + bulls. Then inch by inch he must back out again, unable to see twenty + yards to either side, guiding himself by the probabilities of the faint + chance breezes in the thicket. To right and left he hears the quiet + continued crop, crop, crop, sound of animals grazing. The sweat runs down + his face in streams, and blinds his eyes, but only occasionally and with + the utmost caution can he raise his hand-or, better, lower his head-to + clear his vision. When at last he has withdrawn from the danger zone, he + wipes his face, takes a drink from the canteen, and tries again. Sooner or + later his presence comes to the notice of some old cow. Behind the leafy + screen where unsuspected she has been standing comes the most unexpected + and heart-jumping crash! Instantly the jungle all about roars into life. + The great bodies of the alarmed beasts hurl themselves through the + thicket, smash! bang! crash! smash! as though a tornado were uprooting the + forest. Then abruptly a complete silence! This lasts but ten seconds or + so; then off rushes the wild stampede in another direction; only again to + come to a listening halt of breathless stillness. So the hunter, unable to + see anything, and feeling very small, huddles with his gunbearers in a + compact group, listening to the wild surging short rushes, now this way, + now that, hoping that the stampede may not run over him. If by chance it + does, he has his two shots and the possibility of hugging a tree while the + rush divides around him. The latter is the most likely; a single buffalo + is hard enough to stop with two shots, let alone a herd. And yet, + sometimes, the mere flash and noise will suffice to turn them, provided + they are not actually trying to attack, but only rushing indefinitely + about. Probably a man can experience few more thrilling moments than he + will enjoy standing in one of the small leafy rooms of an African jungle + while several hundred tons of buffalo crash back and forth all around him. + </p> + <p> + In the best of circumstances it is only rarely that having identified his + big bull, the hunter can deliver a knockdown blow. The beast is + extraordinarily vital, and in addition it is exceedingly difficult to get + a fair, open shot. Then from the danger of being trampled down by the + blind and senseless stampede of the herd he passes to the more defined + peril from an angered and cunning single animal. The majority of + fatalities in hunting buffaloes happen while following wounded beasts. A + flank charge at close range may catch the most experienced man; and even + when clearly seen, it is difficult to stop. The buffalo's wide bosses are + a helmet to his brain, and the body shot is always chancy. The beast + tosses his victim, or tramples him, or pushes him against a tree to crush + him like a fly. + </p> + <p> + He who would get his trophy, however, is not always-perhaps is not + generally-forced into the thicket to get it. When not much disturbed, + buffaloes are in the habit of grazing out into the open just before dark; + and of returning to their thicket cover only well after sunrise. If the + hunter can arrange to meet his herd at such a time, he stands a very good + chance of getting a clear shot. The job then requires merely ordinary + caution and manoeuvring; and the only danger, outside the ever-present one + from the wounded beast, is that the herd may charge over him deliberately. + Therefore it is well to keep out of sight. + </p> + <p> + The difficulty generally is to locate your beasts. They wander all night, + and must be blundered upon in the early morning before they have drifted + back into the thickets. Sometimes, by sending skilled trackers in several + directions, they can be traced to where they have entered cover. A + messenger then brings the white man to the place, and every one tries to + guess at what spot the buffaloes are likely to emerge for their evening + stroll. It is remarkably easy to make a wrong guess, and the remaining + daylight is rarely sufficient to repair a mistake. And also, in the case + of a herd ranging a wide country with much tall grass and several drinking + holes, it is rather difficult, without very good luck, to locate them on + any given night or morning. A few herds, a very few, may have fixed + habits, and so prove easy hunting. + </p> + <p> + These difficulties, while in no way formidable, are real enough in their + small way; but they are immensely increased when the herds have been often + disturbed. Disturbance need not necessarily mean shooting. In countries + unvisited by white men often the pastoral natives will so annoy the + buffalo by shoutings and other means, whenever they appear near the tame + cattle, that the huge beasts will come practically nocturnal. In that case + only the rankest luck will avail to get a man a chance in the open. The + herds cling to cover until after sundown and just at dusk; and they return + again very soon after the first streaks of dawn. If the hunter just + happens to be at the exact spot, he may get a twilight shot when the + glimmering ivory of his front sight is barely visible. Otherwise he must + go into the thicket. + </p> + <p> + As an illustration of the first condition might be instanced an afternoon + on the Tana. The weather was very hot. We had sent three lots of men out + in different directions, each under the leadership of one of the + gunbearers, to scout, while we took it easy in the shade of our banda, or + grass shelter, on the bank of the river. About one o'clock a messenger + came into camp reporting that the men under Mavrouki had traced a herd to + its lying-down place. We took our heavy guns and started. + </p> + <p> + The way led through thin scrub up the long slope of a hill that broke on + the other side into undulating grass ridges that ended in a range of + hills. These were about four or five miles distant, and thinly wooded on + sides and lower slopes with what resembled a small live-oak growth. Among + these trees, our guide told us, the buffalo had first been sighted. + </p> + <p> + The sun was very hot, and all the animals were still. We saw impalla in + the scrub, and many giraffes and bucks on the plains. After an hour and a + half's walk we entered the parklike groves at the foot of the hills, and + our guide began to proceed more cautiously. He moved forward a few feet, + peered about, retraced his steps. Suddenly his face broke into a broad + grin. Following his indication we looked up, and there in a tree almost + above us roosted one of our boys sound asleep! We whistled at him. + Thereupon he awoke, tried to look very alert, and pointed in the direction + we should go. After an interval we picked up another sentinel, and + another, and another until, passed on thus from one to the next, we traced + the movements of the herd. Finally we came upon Mavrouki and Simba under a + bush. From them, in whispers, we learned that the buffalo were karibu + sana-very near; that they had fed this far, and were now lying in the long + grass just ahead. Leaving the men, we now continued our forward movement + on hands and knees, in single file. It was very hot work, for the sun beat + square down on us, and the tall grass kept off every breath of air. Every + few moments we rested, lying on our faces. Occasionally, when the grass + shortened, or the slant of ground tended to expose us, we lay quite flat + and hitched forward an inch at a time by the strength of our toes. This + was very severe work indeed, and we were drenched in perspiration. In + fact, as I had been feeling quite ill all day, it became rather doubtful + whether I could stand the pace. + </p> + <p> + However after a while we managed to drop down into an eroded deep little + ravine. Here the air was like that of a furnace, but at least we could + walk upright for a few rods. This we did, with the most extraordinary + precautions against even the breaking of a twig or the rolling of a + pebble. Then we clambered to the top of the bank, wormed our way forward + another fifty feet to the shelter of a tiny bush, and stretched out to + recuperate. We lay there some time, sheltered from the sun. Then ahead of + us suddenly rumbled a deep bellow. We were fairly upon the herd! + </p> + <p> + Cautiously F., who was nearest the centre of the bush, raised himself + alongside the stem to look. He could see where the beasts were lying, not + fifty yards away, but he could make out nothing but the fact of great + black bodies taking their ease in the grass under the shade of trees. So + much he reported to us; then rose again to keep watch. + </p> + <p> + Thus we waited the rest of the afternoon. The sun dipped at last toward + the west, a faint irregular breeze wandered down from the hills, certain + birds awoke and uttered their clear calls, an unsuspected kongoni stepped + from the shade of a tree over the way and began to crop the grass, the + shadows were lengthening through the trees. Then ahead of us an uneasiness + ran through the herd. We in the grass could hear the mutterings and + grumblings of many great animals. Suddenly F. snapped his fingers, stooped + low and darted forward. We scrambled to our feet and followed. + </p> + <p> + Across a short open space we ran, bent double to the shelter of a big ant + hill. Peering over the top of this we found ourselves within sixty yards + of a long compact column of the great black beasts, moving forward orderly + to the left, the points of the cow's horns, curved up and in, tossing + slowly as the animals walked. On the flank of the herd was a big gray + bull. + </p> + <p> + It had been agreed that B. was to have the shot. Therefore he opened fire + with his 405 Winchester, a weapon altogether too light for this sort of + work. At the shot the herd dashed forward to an open grass meadow a few + rods away, wheeled and faced back in a compact mass, their noses thrust up + and out in their typical fashion, trying with all their senses to locate + the cause of the disturbance. + </p> + <p> + Taking advantage both of the scattered cover, and the half light of the + shadows we slipped forward as rapidly and as unobtrusively as we could to + the edge of the grass meadow. Here we came to a stand eighty yards from + the buffaloes. They stood compactly like a herd of cattle, staring, + tossing their heads, moving slightly, their wild eyes searching for us. I + saw several good bulls, but always they moved where it was impossible to + shoot without danger of getting the wrong beast. Finally my chance came; I + planted a pair of Holland bullets in the shoulder of one of them. + </p> + <p> + The herd broke away to the right, sweeping past us at close range. My bull + ran thirty yards with them, then went down stone dead. When we examined + him we found the hole made by B.'s Winchester bullet; so that quite + unintentionally and by accident I had fired at the same beast. This was + lucky. The trophy, by hunter's law, of course, belonged to B. + </p> + <p> + Therefore F. and I alone followed on after the herd. It was now coming on + dusk. Within a hundred yards we began to see scattered beasts. The + formation of the herd had broken. Some had gone on in flight, while others + in small scattered groups would stop to stare back, and would then move + slowly on for a few paces before stopping again. Among these I made out a + bull facing us about a hundred and twenty-five yards away, and managed to + stagger him, but could not bring him down. + </p> + <p> + Now occurred an incident which I should hesitate to relate were it not + that both F. and myself saw it. We have since talked it over, compared our + recollections, and found them to coincide in every particular. + </p> + <p> + As we moved cautiously in pursuit of the slowly retreating herd three cows + broke back and came running down past us. We ducked aside and hid, of + course, but noticed that of the three two were very young, while one was + so old that she had become fairly emaciated, a very unusual thing with + buffaloes. We then followed the herd for twenty minutes, or until + twilight, when we turned back. About halfway down the slope we again met + the three cows, returning. They passed us within twenty yards, but paid us + no attention whatever. The old cow was coming along very reluctantly, + hanging back at every step, and every once in a while swinging her head + viciously at one or the other of her two companions. These escorted her on + either side, and a little to the rear. They were plainly urging her + forward, and did not hesitate to dig her in the ribs with their horns + whenever she turned especially obstinate. In fact they acted exactly like + a pair of cowboys HERDING a recalcitrant animal back to its band and I + have no doubt at all that when they first by us the old lady was making a + break for liberty in the wrong direction, AND THAT THE TWO YOUNGER COWS + WERE TRYING TO ROUND HER BACK! Whether they were her daughters or not is + problematical; but it certainly seemed that they were taking care of her + and trying to prevent her running back where it was dangerous to go. I + never heard of a similar case, though Herbert Ward* mentions, without + particulars that elephants AND BUFFALOES will assist each other WHEN + WOUNDED. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * A Voice from the Congo. +</pre> + <p> + After passing these we returned to where B. and the men, who had now come + up, had prepared the dead bull for transportation. We started at once, + travelling by the stars, shouting and singing to discourage the lions, but + did not reach camp until well into the night. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0026" id="link2H_4_0026"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXV. THE BUFFALO-continued + </h2> + <p> + Some months later, and many hundreds of miles farther south, Billy and I + found ourselves alone with twenty men, and two weeks to pass until C.-our + companion at the time-should return from a long journey out with a wounded + man. By slow stages, and relaying back and forth, we landed in a valley so + beautiful in every way that we resolved to stay as long as possible. This + could be but five days at most. At the end of that time we must start for + our prearranged rendezvous with C. + </p> + <p> + The valley was in the shape of an ellipse, the sides of which were formed + by great clifflike mountains, and the other two by hills lower, but still + of considerable boldness and size. The longest radius was perhaps six or + eight miles, and the shortest three or four. At one end a canyon dropped + away to a lower level, and at the other a pass in the hills gave over to + the country of the Narassara River. The name of the valley was Lengeetoto. + </p> + <p> + From the great mountains flowed many brooks of clear sparkling water, that + ran beneath the most beautiful of open jungles, to unite finally in one + main stream that disappeared down the canyon. Between these brooks were + low broad rolling hills, sometimes grass covered, sometimes grown thinly + with bushes. Where they headed in the mountains, long stringers of forest + trees ran up to blocklike groves, apparently pasted like wafers against + the base of the cliffs, but in reality occupying spacious slopes below + them. + </p> + <p> + We decided to camp at the foot of a long grass slant within a hundred + yards of the trees along one of the small streams. Before us we had the + sweep of brown grass rising to a clear cut skyline; and all about us the + distant great hills behind which the day dawned and fell. One afternoon a + herd of giraffes stood silhouetted on this skyline quite a half hour + gazing curiously down on our camp. Hartebeeste and zebra swarmed in the + grassy openings; and impalla in the brush. We saw sing-sing and steinbuck, + and other animals, and heard lions nearly every night. But principally we + elected to stay because a herd of buffaloes ranged the foothills and dwelt + in the groves of forest trees under the cliffs. We wanted a buffalo; and + as Lengeetoto is practically unknown to white men, we thought this a good + chance to get one. In that I reckoned without the fact that at certain + seasons the Masai bring their cattle in, and at such times annoy the + buffalo all they can. + </p> + <p> + We started out well enough. I sent Memba Sasa with two men to locate the + herd. About three o'clock a messenger came to camp after me. We plunged + through our own jungle, crossed a low swell, traversed another jungle, and + got in touch with the other two men. They reported the buffalo had entered + the thicket a few hundred yards below us. Cautiously reconnoitering the + ground it soon became evident that we would be forced more definitely to + locate the herd. To be sure, they had entered the stream jungle at a known + point, but there could be no telling how far they might continue in the + thicket, nor on what side of it they would emerge at sundown. Therefore we + commenced cautiously and slowly follow the trail. + </p> + <p> + The going was very thick, naturally, and we could not see very far ahead. + Our object was not now to try for a bull, but merely to find where the + herd was feeding, in order that we might wait for it to come out. However, + we were brought to a stand, in the middle of a jungle of green leaves, by + the cropping sound of a beast grazing just the other side of a bush. We + could not see it, and we stood stock still in the hope of escaping + discovery ourselves. But an instant later a sudden crash of wood told us + we had been seen. It was near work. The gunbearers crouched close to me. I + held the heavy double gun ready. If the beast had elected to charge I + would have had less than ten yards within which to stop it. Fortunately it + did not do so. But instantly the herd was afoot and off at full speed. A + locomotive amuck in a kindling pile could have made no more appalling a + succession of rending crashes than did those heavy animals rushing here + and there through the thick woody growth. We could see nothing. Twice the + rush started in our direction, but stopped as suddenly as it had begun, to + be succeeded by absolute stillness when everything, ourselves included, + held its breath to listen. Finally, the first panic over, the herd started + definitely away downstream. We ran as fast as we could out of the jungle + to a commanding position on the hill. Thence we could determine the course + of the herd. It continued on downstream as far as we could follow the + sounds in the convolutions of the hills. Realizing that it would + improbably recover enough from its alarmed condition to resume its regular + habits that day, we returned to camp. + </p> + <p> + Next morning Memba Sasa and I were afield before daylight. We took no + other men. In hunting I am a strong disbeliever in the common habit of + trailing along a small army. It is simple enough, in case the kill is + made, to send back for help. No matter how skilful your men are at + stalking, the chances of alarming the game are greatly increased by + numbers; while the possibilities of misunderstanding the plan of campaign, + and so getting into the wrong place at the wrong time, are infinite. + Alone, or with one gunbearer, a man can slip in and out a herd of + formidable animals with the least chances of danger. Merely going out + after camp meat is of course a different matter. + </p> + <p> + We did not follow in the direction taken by the herd the night before, but + struck off toward the opposite side of the valley. For two hours we + searched the wooded country at the base of the cliff mountains, working + slowly around the circle, examining every inlet, ravine and gully. Plenty + of other sorts of game we saw, including elephant tracks not a half hour + old; but no buffalo. About eight o'clock, however, while looking through + my glasses, I caught sight of some tiny chunky black dots crawling along + below the mountains diagonally across the valley, and somewhat over three + miles away. We started in that direction as fast as we could walk. At the + end of an hour we surmounted the last swell, and stood at the edge of a + steep drop. Immediately below us flowed a good-sized stream through a high + jungle over the tops of which we looked to a triangular gentle slope + overgrown with scattered bushes and high grass. Beyond this again ran + another jungle, angling up hill from the first, to end in a forest of + trees about thirty or forty acres in extent. This jungle and these trees + were backed up against the slope of the mountain. The buffaloes we had + first seen above the grove: they must now have sought cover among either + the trees or the lower jungle, and it seemed reasonable that the beasts + would emerge on the grass and bush area late in the afternoon. Therefore + Memba Sasa and I selected good comfortable sheltered spots, leaned our + backs against rocks, and resigned ourselves to long patience. It was now + about nine o'clock in the morning, and we could not expect our game to + come out before half past three at earliest. We could not, however, go + away to come back later because of the chance that the buffaloes might + take it into their heads to go travelling. I had been fooled that way + before. For this reason, also, it was necessary, every five minutes or so, + to examine carefully all our boundaries; lest the beasts might be slipping + away through the cover. + </p> + <p> + The hours passed very slowly. We made lunch last as long as possible. I + had in my pocket a small edition of Hawthorne's “The House of the Seven + Gables,” which I read, pausing every few minutes to raise my glasses for + the periodical examination of the country. The mental focussing back from + the pale gray half light of Hawthorne's New England to the actuality of + wild Africa was a most extraordinary experience. + </p> + <p> + Through the heat of the day the world lay absolutely silent. At about + half-past three, however, we heard rumblings and low bellows from the + trees a half mile away. I repocketed Hawthorne, and aroused myself to + continuous alertness. + </p> + <p> + The ensuing two hours passed more slowly than all the rest of the day, for + we were constantly on the lookout. The buffaloes delayed most singularly, + seemingly reluctant to leave their deep cover. The sun dropped behind the + mountains, and their shadow commenced to climb the opposite range. I + glanced at my watch. We had not more than a half hour of daylight left. + </p> + <p> + Fifteen minutes of this passed. It began to look as though our long and + monotonous wait had been quite in vain; when, right below us, and perhaps + five hundred yards away, four great black bodies fed leisurely from the + bushes. Three of them we could see plainly. Two were bulls of fair size. + The fourth, half concealed in the brush, was by far the biggest of the + lot. + </p> + <p> + In order to reach them we would have to slip down the face of the hill on + which we sat, cross the stream jungle at the bottom, climb out the other + side, and make our stalk to within range. With a half hour more of + daylight this would have been comparatively easy, but in such + circumstances it is difficult to move at the same time rapidly and unseen. + However, we decided to make the attempt. To that end we disencumbered + ourselves of all our extras-lunch box, book, kodak, glasses, etc.-and + wormed our way as rapidly as possible toward the bottom of the hill. We + utilized the cover as much as we were able, but nevertheless breathed a + sigh of relief when we had dropped below the line of the jungle. We wasted + very little time crossing the latter, save for precautions against noise. + Even in my haste, however, I had opportunity to notice its high and + austere character, with the arching overhead vines, and the clear freedom + from undergrowth in its heart. Across this cleared space we ran at full + speed, crouching below the grasp of the vines, splashed across the brook + and dashed up the other bank. Only a faint glimmer of light lingered in + the jungle. At the upper edge we paused, collected ourselves, and pushed + cautiously through the thick border-screen of bush. + </p> + <p> + The twilight was just fading into dusk. Of course we had taken our + bearings from the other hill; so now, after reassuring ourselves of them, + we began to wriggle our way at a great pace through the high grass. Our + calculations were quite accurate. We stalked successfully, and at last, + drenched in sweat, found ourselves lying flat within ten yards of a small + bush behind which we could make out dimly the black mass of the largest + beast we had seen from across the way. + </p> + <p> + Although it was now practically dark, we had the game in our own hands. + From our low position the animal, once it fed forward from behind the + single small bush, would be plainly outlined against the sky, and at ten + yards I should be able to place my heavy bullets properly, even in the + dark. Therefore, quite easy in our minds, we lay flat and rested. At the + end of twenty seconds the animal began to step forward. I levelled my + double gun, ready to press trigger the moment the shoulder appeared in the + clear. Then against the saffron sky emerged the ugly outline and two + upstanding horns of a rhinoceros! + </p> + <p> + “Faru!” I whispered disgustedly to Memba Sasa. With infinite pains we + backed out, then retreated to a safe distance. It was of course now too + late to hunt up the three genuine buffaloes of this ill-assorted group. + </p> + <p> + In fact our main necessity was to get through the river jungle before the + afterglow had faded from the sky, leaving us in pitch darkness. I sent + Memba Sasa across to pick up the effects we had left on the opposite + ridge, while I myself struck directly across the flat toward camp. + </p> + <p> + I had plunged ahead thus, for two or three hundred yards, when I was + brought up short by the violent snort of a rhinoceros just off the + starboard bow. He was very close, but I was unable to locate him in the + dusk. A cautious retreat and change of course cleared me from him, and I + was about to start on again full speed when once more I was halted by + another rhinoceros, this time dead ahead. Attempting to back away from + him, I aroused another in my rear; and as though this were not enough a + fourth opened up to the left. + </p> + <p> + It was absolutely impossible to see anything ten yards away unless it + happened to be silhouetted against the sky. I backed cautiously toward a + little bush, with a vague idea of having something to dodge around. As the + old hunter said when, unarmed, he met the bear, “Anything, even a + newspaper, would have come handy.” To my great joy I backed against a + conical ant hill four or five feet high. This I ascended and began + anti-rhino demonstrations. I had no time to fool with rhinos, anyway. I + wanted to get through that jungle before the leopards left their family + circles. I hurled clods of earth and opprobrious shouts and epithets in + the four directions of my four obstreperous friends, and I thought I + counted four reluctant departures. Then, with considerable doubt, I + descended from my ant hill and hurried down the slope, stumbling over + grass hummocks, colliding with bushes, tangling with vines, but + progressing in a gratifyingly rhinoless condition. Five minutes cautious + but rapid feeling my way brought me through the jungle. Shortly after I + raised the campfires; and so got home. + </p> + <p> + The next two days were repetitions, with slight variation, of this + experience, minus the rhinos! Starting from camp before daylight we were + only in time to see the herd-always aggravatingly on the other side of the + cover, no matter which side we selected for our approach, slowly grazing + into the dense jungle. And always they emerged so late and so far away + that our very best efforts failed to get us near them before dark. The + margin always so narrow, however, that our hopes were alive. + </p> + <p> + On the fourth day, which must be our last in Longeetoto, we found that the + herd had shifted to fresh cover three miles along the base of the + mountains. We had no faith in those buffaloes, but about half-past three + we sallied forth dutifully and took position on a hill overlooking the new + hiding place. This consisted of a wide grove of forest trees varied by + occasional open glades and many dense thickets. So eager were we to win + what had by now developed into a contest that I refused to shoot a lioness + with a three-quarters-grown cub that appeared within easy shot from some + reeds below us. + </p> + <p> + Time passed as usual until nearly sunset. Then through an opening into one + of the small glades we caught sight of the herd travelling slowly but + steadily from right to left. The glimpse was only momentary, but it was + sufficient to indicate the direction from which we might expect them to + emerge. Therefore we ran at top speed down from our own hill, tore through + the jungle at its foot, and hastily, but with more caution, mounted the + opposite slope through the scattered groves and high grass. We could hear + occasionally indications of the buffaloes' slow advance, and we wanted to + gain a good ambuscade above them before they emerged. We found it in the + shape of a small conical hillock perched on the side hill itself, and + covered with long grass. It commanded open vistas through the scattered + trees in all directions. And the thicket itself ended not fifty yards + away. No buffalo could possibly come out without our seeing him; and we + had a good half hour of clear daylight before us. It really seemed that + luck had changed at last. + </p> + <p> + We settled ourselves, unlimbered for action, and got our breath. The + buffaloes came nearer and nearer. At length, through a tiny opening a + hundred yards away, we could catch momentary glimpses of their great black + bodies. I thrust forward the safety catch and waited. Finally a half dozen + of the huge beasts were feeding not six feet inside the circle of brush, + and only thirty-odd yards from where we lay. + </p> + <p> + And they came no farther! I never passed a more heart-breaking half hour + of suspense than that in which little by little the daylight and our hopes + faded, while those confounded buffaloes moved slowly out to the very edge + of the thicket, turned, and moved as slowly back again. At times they came + actually into view. We could see their sleek black bodies rolling lazily + into sight and back again, like seals on the surface of water, but never + could we make out more than that. I could have had a dozen good shots, but + I could not even guess what I would be shooting at. And the daylight + drained away and the minutes ticked by! + </p> + <p> + Finally, as I could see no end to this performance save that to which we + had been so sickeningly accustomed in the last four days, I motioned to + Memba Sasa, and together we glided like shadows into the thicket. + </p> + <p> + There it was already dusk. We sneaked breathlessly through the small + openings, desperately in a hurry, almost painfully on the alert. In the + dark shadow sixty yards ahead stood a half dozen monstrous bodies all + facing our way. They suspected the presence of something unusual, but in + the darkness and the stillness they could neither identify it nor locate + it exactly. I dropped on one knee and snatched my prism glasses to my + eyes. The magnification enabled me to see partially into the shadows. + Every one of the group carried the sharply inturned points to the horns: + they were all cows! + </p> + <p> + An instant after I had made out this fact, they stampeded across our face. + The whole band thundered and crashed away. + </p> + <p> + Desperately we sprang after them, our guns atrail, our bodies stooped low + to keep down in the shadow of the earth. And suddenly, without the + slightest warning we plumped around a bush square on top of the entire + herd. It had stopped and was staring back in our direction. I could see + nothing but the wild toss of a hundred pair of horns silhouetted against + such of the irregular saffron afterglow as had not been blocked off by the + twigs and branches of the thicket. All below was indistinguishable + blackness. + </p> + <p> + They stood in a long compact semicircular line thirty yards away, quite + still, evidently staring intently into the dusk to find out what had + alarmed them. At any moment they were likely to make another rush; and if + they did so in the direction they were facing, they would most certainly + run over us and trample us down. + </p> + <p> + Remembering the dusk I thought it likely that the unexpected vivid flash + of the gun might turn them off before they got started. Therefore I raised + the big double Holland, aimed below the line of heads, and was just about + to pull trigger when my eye caught the silhouette of a pair of horns whose + tips spread out instead of turning in. This was a bull, and I immediately + shifted the gun in his direction. At the heavy double report, the herd + broke wildly to right and left and thundered away. I confess I was quite + relieved. + </p> + <p> + A low moaning bellow told us that our bull was down. The last few days' + experience at being out late had taught us wisdom so Memba Sasa had + brought a lantern. By the light of this, we discovered our bull down, and + all but dead. To make sure, I put a Winchester bullet into his backbone. + </p> + <p> + We felt ourselves legitimately open to congratulations, for we had killed + this bull from a practically nocturnal herd, in the face of considerable + danger and more than considerable difficulty. Therefore we shook hands and + made appropriate remarks to each other, lacking anybody to make them for + us. + </p> + <p> + By now it was pitch dark in the thicket, and just about so outside. We had + to do a little planning. I took the Holland gun, gave Memba Sasa the + Winchester, and started him for camp after help. As he carried off the + lantern, it was now up to me to make a fire and to make it quickly. + </p> + <p> + For the past hour a fine drizzle had been falling; and the whole country + was wet from previous rains. I hastily dragged in all the dead wood I + could find near, collected what ought to be good kindling, and started in + to light a fire. Now, although I am no Boy Scout, I have lit several fires + in my time. But never when I was at the same time in such a desperate need + and hurry; and in possession of such poor materials. The harder I worked, + the worse things sputtered and smouldered. Probably the relief from the + long tension of the buffalo hunt had something to do with my general + piffling inefficiency. If I had taken time to do a proper job once instead + of a halfway job a dozen times, as I should have done and usually would + have done, I would have had a fire in no time. I imagine I was somewhat + scared. The lioness and her hulking cub had smelled the buffalo and were + prowling around. I could hear them purring and uttering their hollow + grunts. However, at last the flame held. I fed it sparingly, lit a pipe, + placed the Holland gun next my hand, and resigned myself to waiting. For + two hours this was not so bad. I smoked, and rested up, and dried out + before my little fire. Then my fuel began to run low. I arose and tore + down all the remaining dead limbs within the circle of my firelight. These + were not many, so I stepped out into the darkness for more. Immediately I + was warned back by a deep growl! + </p> + <p> + The next hour was not one of such solid comfort. I began to get + parsimonious about my supply of firewood, trying to use it in such a + manner as to keep up an adequate blaze, and at the same time to make it + last until Memba Sasa should return with the men. I did it, though I got + down to charred ends before I was through. The old lioness hung around + within a hundred yards or so below, and the buffalo herd, returning, filed + by above, pausing to stamp and snort at the fire. Finally, about nine + o'clock, I made out two lanterns bobbing up to me through the trees. + </p> + <p> + The last incident to be selected from many experiences with buffaloes took + place in quite an unvisited district over the mountains from the Loieta + Plains. For nearly two months we had ranged far in this lovely upland + country of groves and valleys and wide grass bottoms between hills, + hunting for greater kudu. One day we all set out from camp to sweep the + base of a range of low mountains in search of a good specimen of Newman's + hartebeeste, or anything else especially desirable that might happen + along. The gentle slope from the mountains was of grass cut by numerous + small ravines grown with low brush. This brush was so scanty as to afford + but indifferent cover for anything larger than one of the small grass + antelopes. All the ravines led down a mile or so to a deeper main + watercourse paralleling the mountains. Some water stood in the pools here; + and the cover was a little more dense, but consisted at best of but a + “stringer” no wider than a city street. Flanking the stringer were + scattered high bushes for a few yards; and then the open country. + Altogether as unlikely a place for the shade-loving buffalo as could be + imagined. + </p> + <p> + We collected our Newmanii after rather a long hunt; and just at noon, when + the heat of the day began to come on, we wandered down to the water for + lunch. Here we found a good clear pool and drank. The boys began to make + themselves comfortable by the water's edge; C. went to superintend the + disposal of Billy's mule. Billy had sat down beneath the shade of the most + hospitable of the bushes a hundred feet or so away, and was taking off her + veil and gloves. I was carrying to her the lunch box. When I was about + halfway from where the boys were drinking at the stream's edge to where + she sat, a buffalo bull thrust his head from the bushes just the other + side of her. His head was thrust up and forward, as he reached after some + of the higher tender leaves on the bushes. So close was he that I could + see plainly the drops glistening on his moist black nose. As for Billy, + peacefully unwinding her long veil, she seemed fairly under the beast. + </p> + <p> + I had no weapon, and any moment might bring some word or some noise that + would catch the animal's attention. Fortunately, for the moment, every + one, relaxed in the first reaction after the long morning, was keeping + silence. If the buffalo should look down, he could not fail to see Billy; + and if he saw her, he would indubitably kill her. + </p> + <p> + As has been explained, snapping the fingers does not seem to reach the + attention of wild animals. Therefore I snapped mine as vigorously as I + knew how. Billy heard, looked toward me, turned in the direction of my + gaze, and slowly sank prone against the ground. Some of the boys heard me + also, and I could see the heads of all of them popping up in interest from + the banks of the stream. My cautious but very frantic signals to lie low + were understood: the heads dropped back. Mavrouki, a rifle in each hand, + came worming his way toward me through the grass with incredible quickness + and agility. A moment later he thrust the 405 Winchester into my hand. + </p> + <p> + This weapon, powerful and accurate as it is, the best of the lot for + lions, was altogether too small for the tremendous brute before me. + However, the Holland was in camp; and I was very glad in the circumstances + to get this. The buffalo had browsed slowly forward into the clear, and + was now taking the top off a small bush, and facing half away from us. It + seemed to me quite the largest buffalo I had ever seen, though I should + have been willing to have acknowledged at that moment that the + circumstances had something to do with the estimate. However, later we + found that the impression was correct. He was verily a giant of his kind. + His height at the shoulder was five feet ten inches; and his build was + even chunkier than the usual solid robust pattern of buffaloes. For + example, his neck, just back of the horns, was two feet eight inches + thick! He weighed not far from three thousand pounds. + </p> + <p> + Once the rifle was in my hands I lost the feeling of utter helplessness, + and began to plan the best way out of the situation. As yet the beast was + totally unconscious of our presence; but that could not continue long. + There were too many men about. A chance current of air from any one of a + half dozen directions could not fail to give him the scent. Then there + would be lively doings. It was exceedingly desirable to deliver the first + careful blow of the engagement while he was unaware. On the other hand, + his present attitude-half away from me-was not favourable; nor, in my + exposed position dared I move to a better place. There seemed nothing + better than to wait; so wait we did. Mavrouki crouched close at my elbow, + showing not the faintest indication of a desire to be anywhere but there. + </p> + <p> + The buffalo browsed for a minute or so; then swung slowly broadside on. So + massive and low were the bosses of his horns that the brain shot was + impossible. Therefore I aimed low in the shoulder. The shock of the bullet + actually knocked that great beast off his feet! My respect for the hitting + power of the 405 went up several notches. The only trouble was that he + rebounded like a rubber ball. Without an instant's hesitation I gave him + another in the same place. This brought him to his knees for an instant; + but he was immediately afoot again. Billy had, with great good sense and + courage, continued to lie absolutely flat within a few yards of the beast, + Mavrouki and I had kept low, and C. and the men were out of sight. The + buffalo therefore had seen none of his antagonists. He charged at a guess, + and guessed wrong. As he went by I fired at his head, and, as we found out + afterward, broke his jaw. A moment later C.'s great elephant gun roared + from somewhere behind me as he fired by a glimpse through the brush at the + charging animal. It was an excellent snapshot, and landed back of the + ribs. + </p> + <p> + When the buffalo broke through the screen of brush I dashed after him, for + I thought our only chance of avoiding danger lay in keeping close track of + where that buffalo went. On the other side the bushes I found a little + grassy opening, and then a small but dense thicket into which the animal + had plunged. To my left, C. was running up, followed closely by Billy, + who, with her usual good sense, had figured out the safest place to be + immediately back of the guns. We came together at the thicket's edge. + </p> + <p> + The animal's movements could be plainly followed by the sound of his + crashing. We heard him dash away some distance, pause, circle a bit to the + right, and then come rushing back in our direction. Stooping low we peered + into the darkness of the thicket. Suddenly we saw him, not a dozen yards + away. He was still afoot, but very slow. I dropped the magazine of five + shots into him as fast as I could work the lever. We later found all the + bullet-holes in a spot as big as the palm of your hand. These successive + heavy blows delivered all in the same place were too much for even his + tremendous vitality; and slowly he sank on his side. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0027" id="link2H_4_0027"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXVI. JUJA + </h2> + <p> + Most people have heard of Juja, the modern dwelling in the heart of an + African wilderness, belonging to our own countryman, Mr. W. N. McMillan. + If most people are as I was before I saw the place, they have considerable + curiosity and no knowledge of what it is and how it looks. + </p> + <p> + We came to Juja at the end of a wide circle that had lasted three months, + and was now bringing us back again toward our starting point. For five + days we had been camped on top a high bluff at the junction of two rivers. + When we moved we dropped down the bluff, crossed one river, and, after + some searching, found our way up the other bluff. There we were on a vast + plain bounded by mountains thirty miles away. A large white and unexpected + sign told us we were on Juja Farm, and warned us that we should be careful + of our fires in the long grass. + </p> + <p> + For an hour we plodded slowly along. Herds of zebra and hartebeeste drew + aside before us, dark heavy wildebeeste-the gnu-stood in groups at a safe + distance their heads low, looking exactly like our vanished bison; + ghostlike bands of Thompson's gazelles glided away with their smooth + regular motion. On the vast and treeless plains single small objects + standing above the general uniformity took an exaggerated value; so that, + before it emerged from the swirling heat mirage, a solitary tree might + easily be mistaken for a group of buildings or a grove. Finally, however, + we raised above the horizon a dark straight clump of trees. It danced in + the mirage, and blurred and changed form, but it persisted. A strange + patch of white kept appearing and disappearing again. This resolved itself + into the side of a building. A spider-legged water tower appeared above + the trees. + </p> + <p> + Gradually we drew up on these. A bit later we swung to the right around a + close wire fence ten feet high, passed through a gate, and rode down a + long slanting avenue of young trees. Between the trees were century plants + and flowers, and a clipped border ran before them. The avenue ended before + a low white bungalow, with shady verandas all about it, and vines. A + formal flower garden lay immediately about it, and a very tall flag pole + had been planted in front. A hundred feet away the garden dropped off + steep to one of the deep river canyons. + </p> + <p> + Two white-robed Somalis appeared on the veranda to inform us that McMillan + was off on safari. Our own boys approaching at this moment, we thereupon + led them past the house, down another long avenue of trees and flowers, + out into an open space with many buildings at its edges, past extensive + stables, and through another gate to the open plains once more. Here we + made camp. After lunch we went back to explore. + </p> + <p> + Juja is situated on the top of a high bluff overlooking a river. In all + directions are tremendous grass plains. Donya Sabuk-the Mountain of + Buffaloes-is the only landmark nearer than the dim mountains beyond the + edge of the world, and that is a day's journey away. A rectangle of + possibly forty acres has been enclosed on three sides by animal-proof wire + fence. The fourth side is the edge of the bluff. Within this enclosure + have been planted many trees, now of good size; a pretty garden with + abundance of flowers, ornamental shrubs, a sundial, and lawns. In the + river bottom land below the bluff is a very extensive vegetable and fruit + garden, with cornfields, and experimental plantings of rubber, and the + like. For the use of the people of Juja here are raised a great variety + and abundance of vegetables, fruits, and grains. + </p> + <p> + Juja House, as has been said, stands back a hundred feet from a bend in + the bluffs that permits a view straight up the river valley. It is + surrounded by gardens and trees, and occupies all one end of the enclosed + rectangle. Farther down and perched on the edge of a bluff, are several + pretty little bungalows for the accommodation of the superintendent and + his family, for the bachelors' mess, for the farm offices and dispensary, + and for the dairy room, the ice-plant and the post-office and telegraph + station. Back of and inland from this row on the edge of the cliff, and + scattered widely in open space, are a large store stocked with everything + on earth, the Somali quarters of low whitewashed buildings, the cattle + corrals, the stables, wild animal cages, granaries, blacksmith and + carpenter shops, wagon sheds and the like. Outside the enclosure, and a + half mile away, are the conical grass huts that make up the native + village. Below the cliff is a concrete dam, an electric light plant, a + pumping plant and a few details of the sort. + </p> + <p> + Such is a relief map of Juja proper. Four miles away, and on another + river, is Long Juja, a strictly utilitarian affair where grow ostriches, + cattle, sheep, and various irrigated things in the bottom land. All the + rest of the farm, or estate, or whatever one would call it, is open plain, + with here and there a river bottom, or a trifle of brush cover. But never + enough to constitute more than an isolated and lonesome patch. + </p> + <p> + Before leaving London we had received from McMillan earnest assurances + that he kept open house, and that we must take advantage of his + hospitality should we happen his way. Therefore when one of his + white-robed Somalis approached us to inquire respectfully as to what we + wanted for dinner, we yielded weakly to the temptation and told him. Then + we marched us boldly to the house and took possession. + </p> + <p> + All around the house ran a veranda, shaded bamboo curtains and vines, + furnished with the luxurious teakwood chairs of the tropics of which you + can so extend the arms as to form two comfortable and elevated rests for + your feet. Horns of various animals ornamented the walls. A megaphone and + a huge terrestrial telescope on a tripod stood in one corner. Through the + latter one could examine at favourable times the herds of game on the + plains. + </p> + <p> + And inside-mind you, we were fresh from three months in the wilderness-we + found rugs, pictures, wall paper, a pianola, many books, baths, beautiful + white bedrooms with snowy mosquito curtains, electric lights, running + water, and above all an atmosphere of homelike comfort. We fell into easy + chairs, and seized books and magazines. The Somalis brought us trays with + iced and fizzy drinks in thin glasses. When the time came we crossed the + veranda in the rear to enter a spacious separate dining-room. The table + was white with napery, glittering with silver and glass, bright with + flowers. We ate leisurely of a well-served course dinner, ending with + black coffee, shelled nuts, and candied fruit. Replete and satisfied we + strolled back across the veranda to the main house. F. raised his hand. + </p> + <p> + “Hark!” he admonished us. + </p> + <p> + We held still. From the velvet darkness came the hurried petulant barking + of zebra; three hyenas howled. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0028" id="link2H_4_0028"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXVII. A VISIT AT JUJA + </h2> + <p> + Next day we left all this; and continued our march. About a month later, + however, we encountered McMillan himself in Nairobi. I was just out from a + very hard trip to the coast-Billy not with me-and wanted nothing so much + as a few days' rest. McMillan's cordiality was not to be denied, however, + so the very next day found us tucking ourselves into a buckboard behind + four white Abyssinian mules. McMillan, some Somalis and Captain Duirs came + along in another similar rig. Our driver was a Hottentot half-caste from + South Africa. He had a flat face, a yellow skin, a quiet manner, and a + competent hand. His name was Michael. At his feet crouched a small Kikuyu + savage, in blanket ear ornaments and all the fixings, armed with a long + lashed whip and raucous voice. At any given moment he was likely to hop + out over the moving wheel, run forward, bat the off leading mule, and hop + back again, all with the most extraordinary agility. He likewise hurled + what sounded like very opprobrious epithets at such natives as did not get + out the way quickly enough to suit him. The expression of his face, which + was that of a person steeped in woe, never changed. + </p> + <p> + We rattled out of Nairobi at a great pace, and swung into the Fort Hall + Road. This famous thoroughfare, one of the three or four made roads in all + East Africa, is about sixty miles long. It is a strategic necessity but is + used by thousands of natives on their way to see the sights of the great + metropolis. As during the season there is no water for much of the + distance, a great many pay for their curiosity with their lives. The road + skirts the base of the hills, winding in and out of shallow canyons and + about the edges of rounded hills. To the right one can see far out across + the Athi Plains. + </p> + <p> + We met an almost unbroken succession of people. There were long pack + trains of women, quite cheerful, bent over under the weight of firewood or + vegetables, many with babies tucked away in the folds of their garments; + mincing dandified warriors with poodle-dog hair, skewers in their ears, + their jewelery brought to a high polish a fatuous expression of + self-satisfaction on their faces, carrying each a section of sugarcane + which they now used as a staff but would later devour for lunch; bearers, + under convoy of straight soldierly red-sashed Sudanese, transporting + Government goods; wild-eyed staring shenzis from the forest, with matted + hair and goatskin garments, looking ready to bolt aside at the slightest + alarm; coveys of marvellous and giggling damsels, their fine-grained skin + anointed and shining with red oil, strung with beads and shells, very + coquettish and sure of their feminine charm; naked small boys marching + solemnly like their elders; camel trains from far-off Abyssinia or + Somaliland under convoy of white-clad turbaned grave men of beautiful + features; donkey safaris in charge of dirty degenerate looking East + Indians carrying trade goods to some distant post-all these and many more, + going one way or the other, drew one side, at the sight of our white + faces, to let us pass. + </p> + <p> + About two o'clock we suddenly turned off from the road, apparently quite + at random, down the long grassy interminable incline that dipped slowly + down and slowly up again over great distance to form the Athi Plains. + Along the road, with its endless swarm of humanity, we had seen no game, + but after a half mile it began to appear. We encountered herds of zebra, + kongoni, wildebeeste, and “Tommies” standing about or grazing, sometimes + almost within range from the moving buckboard. After a time we made out + the trees and water tower of Juja ahead; and by four o'clock had turned + into the avenue of trees. Our approach had been seen. Tea was ready, and a + great and hospitable table of bottles, ice, and siphons. + </p> + <p> + The next morning we inspected the stables, built of stone in a hollow + square, like a fort, with box stalls opening directly into the courtyard + and screened carefully against the deadly flies. The horses, beautiful + creatures, were led forth each by his proud and anxious syce. We tried + them all, and selected our mounts for the time of our stay. The syces were + small black men, lean and well formed, accustomed to running afoot + wherever their charges went, at walk, lope or gallop. Thus in a day they + covered incredible distances over all sorts of country; but were always at + hand to seize the bridle reins when the master wished to dismount. Like + the rickshaw runners in Nairobi, they wore their hair clipped close around + their bullet heads and seemed to have developed into a small compact hard + type of their own. They ate and slept with their horses. + </p> + <p> + Just outside the courtyard of the stables a little barred window had been + cut through. Near this were congregated a number of Kikuyu savages wrapped + in their blankets, receiving each in turn a portion of cracked corn from a + dusty white man behind the bars. They were a solemn, unsmiling, strange + type of savage, and they performed all the manual work within the + enclosure, squatting on their heels and pulling methodically but slowly at + the weeds, digging with their pangas, carrying loads: to and fro, or + solemnly pushing a lawn mower, blankets wrapped shamelessly about their + necks. They were harried about by a red-faced beefy English gardener with + a marvellous vocabulary of several native languages and a short hippo-hide + whip. He talked himself absolutely purple in the face without, as far as + my observation went, penetrating an inch below the surface. The Kikuyus + went right on doing what they were already doing in exactly the same + manner. Probably the purple Englishman was satisfied with that, but I am + sure apoplexy of either the heat or thundering variety has him by now. + </p> + <p> + Before the store building squatted another group of savages. Perhaps in + time one of the lot expected to buy something; or possibly they just sat. + Nobody but a storekeeper would ever have time to find out. Such is the + native way. The storekeeper in this case was named John. Besides being + storekeeper, he had charge of the issuing of all the house supplies, and + those for the white men's mess; he must do all the worrying about the + upper class natives; he must occasionally kill a buck for the meat supply; + and he must be prepared to take out any stray tenderfeet that happen along + during McMillan's absence, and persuade them that they are mighty hunters. + His domain was a fascinating place, for it contained everything from + pianola parts to patent washstands. The next best equipped place of the + kind I know of is the property room of a moving picture company. + </p> + <p> + We went to mail a letter, and found the postmaster to be a gentle-voiced, + polite little Hindu, who greeted us smilingly, and attempted to conceal a + work of art. We insisted; whereupon he deprecatingly drew forth a copy of + a newspaper cartoon having to do with Colonel Roosevelt's visit. It was + copied with mathematical exactness, and highly coloured in a manner to + throw into profound melancholy the chauffeur of a coloured supplement + press. We admired and praised; whereupon, still shyly, he produced more, + and yet again more copies of the same cartoon. When we left, he was + reseating himself to the painstaking valueless labour with which he filled + his days. Three times a week such mail as Juja gets comes in via native + runner. We saw the latter, a splendid figure, almost naked, loping easily, + his little bundle held before him. + </p> + <p> + Down past the office and dispensary we strolled, by the comfortable, airy, + white man's clubhouse. The headman of the native population passed us with + a dignified salute; a fine upstanding deep-chested man, with a lofty air + of fierce pride. He and his handful of soldiers alone of the natives, + except the Somalis and syces, dwelt within the compound in a group of huts + near the gate. There when off duty they might be seen polishing their + arms, or chatting with their women. The latter were ladies of leisure, + with wonderful chignons, much jewelery, and patterned Mericani wrapped + gracefully about their pretty figures. + </p> + <p> + By the time we had seen all these things it was noon. We ate lunch. The + various members of the party decided to do various things. I elected to go + out with McMillan while he killed a wildebeeste, and I am very glad I did. + It was a most astonishing performance. + </p> + <p> + You must imagine us driving out the gate in a buckboard behind four small + but lively white Abyssinian mules. In the front seat were Michael, the + Hottentot driver, and McMillan's Somali gunbearer. In the rear seat were + McMillan and myself, while a small black syce perched precariously behind. + Our rifles rested in a sling before us. So we jogged out on the road to + Long Juju, examining with a critical eye the herds of game to right and + left of us. The latter examined us, apparently, with an eye as critical. + Finally, in a herd of zebra, we espied a lone wildebeeste. + </p> + <p> + The wildebeeste is the Jekyll and Hyde of the animal kingdom. His usual + and familiar habit is that of a heavy, sluggish animal, like our vanished + bison. He stands solid and inert, his head down; he plods slowly forward + in single file, his horns swinging, each foot planted deliberately. In + short, he is the personification of dignity, solid respectability, gravity + of demeanour. But then all of a sudden, at any small interruption, he + becomes the giddiest of created beings. Up goes his head and tail, he buck + jumps, cavorts, gambols, kicks up his heels, bounds stiff-legged, and + generally performs like an irresponsible infant. To see a whole herd at + once of these grave and reverend seigneurs suddenly blow up into such + light-headed capers goes far to destroy one's faith in the stability of + institutions. + </p> + <p> + Also the wildebeeste is not misnamed. He is a conservative, and he sees no + particular reason for allowing his curiosity to interfere with his + preconceived beliefs. The latter are distrustful. Therefore he and his + females and his young-I should say small-depart when one is yet far away. + I say small, because I do not believe that any wildebeeste is ever young. + They do not resemble calves, but are exact replicas of the big ones, just + as Niobe's daughters are in nothing childlike, but merely smaller women. + </p> + <p> + When we caught sight of this lone wildebeeste among the zebra, I naturally + expected that we would pull up the buckboard, descend, and approach to + within some sort of long range. Then we would open fire. Barring luck, the + wildebeeste would thereupon depart “wilder and beestier than ever,” as + John McCutcheon has it. Not at all! Michael, the Hottentot, turned the + buckboard off the road, headed toward the distant quarry, and charged at + full speed! Over stones we went that sent us feet into the air, down and + out of shallow gullies that seemed as though they would jerk the pole from + the vehicle with a grand rattlety-bang, every one hanging on for his life. + I was entirely occupied with the state of my spinal column and the + retention of my teeth, but McMillan must have been keeping his eye on the + game. One peculiarity of the wildebeeste is that he cannot see behind him, + and another is that he is curious. It would not require a very large bump + of curiosity, however, to cause any animal to wonder what all the row was + about. There could be no doubt that this animal would sooner or later stop + for an instant to look for the purpose of seeing what was up in + jungleland; and just before doing so he would, for a few steps, slow down + from a gallop to a trot. McMillan was watching for this symptom. + </p> + <p> + “Now!” he yelled, when he saw it. + </p> + <p> + Instantly Michael threw his weight into the right rein and against the + brake. We swerved so violently to the right and stopped so suddenly that I + nearly landed on the broad prairies. The manoeuvre fetched us up + broadside. The small black syce-and heaven knows how HE had managed to + hang on-darted to the heads of the leading mules. At the same moment the + wildebeeste turned, and stopped; but even before he had swung his head, + McMillan had fired. It was extraordinarily good, quick work, the way he + picked up the long range from the spurts of dust where the bullets hit. At + the third or fourth shots he landed one. Immediately the beast was off + again at a tearing run pursued by a rapid fusillade from the remaining + shots. Then with a violent jerk and a wild yell we were off again. + </p> + <p> + This time, since the animal was wounded, he made for rougher country. And + everywhere that wildebeeste went we too were sure to go. We hit or shaved + boulders that ought to have smashed a wheel, we tore through thick brush + regardless. Twice we charged unhesitatingly over apparent precipices. I do + not know the name of the manufacturer of the buckboard. If I did, I should + certainly recommend it here. Twice more we swerved to our broadside and + cut loose the port batteries. Once more McMillan hit. Then, on the fourth + “run,” we gained perceptibly. The beast was weakening. When he came to a + stumbling halt we were not over a hundred yards from him, and McMillan + easily brought him down. We had chased him four or five miles, and + McMillan had fired nineteen shots, of which two had hit. The rifle + practice throughout had been remarkably good, and a treat to watch. + Personally, besides the fun of attending the show, I got a mighty good + afternoon's exercise. + </p> + <p> + We loaded the game aboard and jogged slowly back to the house, for the + mules were pretty tired. We found a neighbour, Mr. Heatley of Kamiti Ranch + who had “dropped down” twelve miles to see us. On account of a theft + McMillan now had all the Somalis assembled for interrogation on the side + verandas. The interrogation did not amount to much, but while it was going + on the Sudanese headman and his askaris were quietly searching the boys' + quarters. After a time they appeared. The suspected men had concealed + nothing, but the searchers brought with them three of McMillan's shirts + which they had found among the effects of another, and entirely + unsuspected, boy named Abadie. + </p> + <p> + “How is this, Abadie?” demanded McMillan sternly. + </p> + <p> + Abadie hesitated. Then he evidently reflected that there is slight use in + having a deity unless one makes use of him. + </p> + <p> + “Bwana,” said he with an engaging air of belief and candour, “God must + have put them there!” + </p> + <p> + That evening we planned a “general day” for the morrow. We took boys and + buckboards and saddle-horses, beaters, shotguns, rifles, and revolvers, + and we sallied forth for a grand and joyous time. The day from a sporting + standpoint was entirely successful, the bag consisting of two waterbuck, a + zebra, a big wart-hog, six hares, and six grouse. Personally I was a + little hazy and uncertain. By evening the fever had me, and though I + stayed at Juja for six days longer, it was as a patient to McMillan's + unfailing kindness rather than as a participant in the life of the farm. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0029" id="link2H_4_0029"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXVIII. A RESIDENCE AT JUJA + </h2> + <p> + A short time later, at about middle of the rainy season, McMillan left for + a little fishing off Catalina Island. The latter is some fourteen thousand + miles of travel from Juja. Before leaving on this flying trip, McMillan + made us a gorgeous offer. + </p> + <p> + “If,” said he, “you want to go it alone, you can go out and use Juja as + long as you please.” + </p> + <p> + This offer, or, rather, a portion of it, you may be sure, we accepted + promptly. McMillan wanted in addition to leave us his servants; but to + this we would not agree. Memba Sasa and Mahomet were, of course, members + of our permanent staff. In addition to them we picked up another house + boy, named Leyeye. He was a Masai. These proud and aristocratic savages + rarely condescend to take service of any sort except as herders; but when + they do they prove to be unusually efficient and intelligent. We had also + a Somali cook, and six ordinary bearers to do general labour. This small + safari we started off afoot for Juja. The whole lot cost us about what we + would pay one Chinaman on the Pacific Coast. + </p> + <p> + Next day we ourselves drove out in the mule buckboard. The rains were on, + and the road was very muddy. After the vital tropical fashion the grass + was springing tall in the natural meadows and on the plains and the + brief-lived white lilies and an abundance of ground flowers washed the + slopes with colour. Beneath the grass covering, the entire surface of the + ground was an inch or so deep in water. This was always most surprising, + for, apparently, the whole country should have been high and dry. + Certainly its level was that of a plateau rather than a bottom land; so + that one seemed always to be travelling at an elevation. Nevertheless + walking or riding we were continually splashing, and the only dry going + outside the occasional rare “islands” of the slight undulations we found + near the very edge of the bluffs above the rivers. There the drainage + seemed sufficient to carry off the excess. Elsewhere the hardpan or + bedrock must have been exceptionally level and near the top of the ground. + </p> + <p> + Nothing nor nobody seemed to mind this much. The game splashed around + merrily, cropping at the tall grass; the natives slopped indifferently, + and we ourselves soon became so accustomed to two or three inches of water + and wet feet that after the first two days we never gave those phenomena a + thought. + </p> + <p> + The world above at this season of the year was magnificent. The African + heavens are always widely spacious, but now they seemed to have blown even + vaster than usual. In the sweep of the vision four or five heavy black + rainstorms would be trailing their skirts across an infinitely remote + prospect; between them white piled scud clouds and cumuli sailed like + ships; and from them reflected so brilliant a sunlight and behind all + showed so dazzling a blue sky that the general impression was of a fine + day. The rainstorms' gray veils slanted; tremendous patches of shadow lay + becalmed on the plains; bright sunshine poured abundantly its warmth and + yellow light. + </p> + <p> + So brilliant with both direct and reflected light and the values of + contrast were the heavens, that when one happened to stand within one of + the great shadows it became extraordinarily difficult to make out game on + the plains. The pupils contracted to the brilliancy overhead. Often too, + near sunset, the atmosphere would become suffused with a lurid saffron + light that made everything unreal and ghastly. At such times the game + seemed puzzled by the unusual aspect of things. The zebra especially would + bark and stamp and stand their ground, and even come nearer out of sheer + curiosity. I have thus been within fifty yards of them, right out in the + open. At such times it was as though the sky, instead of rounding over in + the usual shape, had been thrust up at the western horizon to the same + incredible height as the zenith. In the space thus created were piled + great clouds through which slanted broad bands of yellow light on a + diminished world. + </p> + <p> + It rained with great suddenness on our devoted heads, and with a curious + effect of metamorphoslng the entire universe. One moment all was clear and + smiling, with the trifling exception of distant rain squalls that amounted + to nothing in the general scheme. Then the horizon turned black, and with + incredible swiftness the dark clouds materialized out of nothing, rolled + high to the zenith like a wave, blotted out every last vestige of + brightness. A heavy oppressive still darkness breathed over the earth. + Then through the silence came a faraway soft drumming sound, barely to be + heard. As we bent our ears to catch this it grew louder and louder, + approaching at breakneck speed like a troop of horses. It became a roar + fairly terrifying in its mercilessly continued crescendo. At last the + deluge of rain burst actually as a relief. + </p> + <p> + And what a deluge! Facing it we found difficulty in breathing. In six + seconds every stitch we wore was soaked through, and only the notebook, + tobacco, and matches bestowed craftily in the crown of the cork helmet + escaped. The visible world was dark and contracted. It seemed that nothing + but rain could anywhere exist; as though this storm must fill all space to + the horizon and beyond. Then it swept on and we found ourselves steaming + in bright sunlight. The dry flat prairie (if this was the first shower for + some time) had suddenly become a lake from the surface of which projected + bushes and clumps of grass. Every game trail had become the water course + of a swiftly running brook. + </p> + <p> + But most pleasant were the evenings at Juja, when, safe indoors, we sat + and listened to the charge of the storm's wild horsemen, and the thunder + of its drumming on the tin roof. The onslaughts were as fierce and abrupt + as those of Cossacks, and swept by as suddenly. The roar died away in the + distance, and we could then hear the steady musical dripping of waters. + </p> + <p> + Pleasant it was also to walk out from Juja in almost any direction. The + compound, and the buildings and trees within it, soon dwindled in the + distances of the great flat plain. Herds of game were always in sight, + grazing, lying down, staring in our direction. The animals were incredibly + numerous. Some days they were fairly tame, and others exceedingly wild, + without any rhyme or reason. This shyness or the reverse seemed not to be + individual to one herd; but to be practically universal. On a “wild day” + everything was wild from the Lone Tree to Long Juju. It would be + manifestly absurd to guess at the reason. Possibly the cause might be + atmospheric or electrical; possibly days of nervousness might follow + nights of unusual activity by the lions; one could invent a dozen + possibilities. Perhaps the kongonis decided it. + </p> + <p> + At Juja we got to know the kongonis even better than we had before. They + are comical, quizzical beasts, with long-nosed humorous faces, a + singularly awkward construction, a shambling gait; but with altruistic + dispositions and an ability to get over the ground at an extraordinary + speed. Every move is a joke; their expression is always one of grieved but + humorous astonishment. They quirk their heads sidewise or down and stare + at an intruder with the most comical air of skeptical wonder. “Well, look + who's here!” says the expression. + </p> + <p> + “Pooh!” says the kongoni himself, after a good look, “pooh! pooh!” with + the most insulting inflection. + </p> + <p> + He is very numerous and very alert. One or more of a grazing herd are + always perched as sentinels atop ant hills or similar small elevations. On + the slightest intimation of danger they give the alarm, whereupon the herd + makes off at once, gathering in all other miscellaneous game that may be + in the vicinity. They will go out of their way to do this, as every + African hunter knows. It immensely complicates matters; for the sportsman + must not only stalk his quarry, but he must stalk each and every kongoni + as well. Once, in another part of the country, C. and I saw a kongoni + leave a band of its own species far down to our right, gallop toward us + and across our front, pick up a herd of zebra we were trying to approach + and make off with them to safety. We cursed that kongoni, but we admired + him, for he deliberately ran out of safety into danger for the purpose of + warning those zebra. So seriously do they take their job as policemen of + the plains that it is very common for a lazy single animal of another + species to graze in a herd of kongonis simply for the sake of protection. + Wildebeeste are much given to this. + </p> + <p> + The kongoni progresses by a series of long high bounds. While in midair he + half tucks up his feet, which gives him the appearance of an automatic + toy. This gait looks deliberate, but is really quite fast, as the mounted + sportsman discovers when he enters upon a vain pursuit. If the horse is an + especially good one, so that the kongoni feels himself a trifle closely + pressed, the latter stops bouncing and runs. Then he simply fades away + into the distance. + </p> + <p> + These beasts are also given to chasing each other all over the landscape. + When a gentleman kongoni conceives a dislike for another gentleman + kongoni, he makes no concealment of his emotions, but marches up and prods + him in the ribs. The ensuing battle is usually fought out very stubbornly + with much feinting, parrying, clashing of the lyre-shaped horns; and a + good deal of crafty circling for a favourable opening. As far as I was + ever able to see not much real damage is inflicted; though I could well + imagine that only skilful fence prevented unpleasant punctures in soft + spots. After a time one or the other feels himself weakening. He dashes + strongly in, wheels while his antagonist is braced, and makes off. The + enemy pursues. Then, apparently, the chase is on for the rest of the day. + The victor is not content merely to drive his rival out of the country; he + wants to catch him. On that object he is very intent; about as intent as + the other fellow is of getting away. I have seen two such beasts almost + run over a dozen men who were making no effort to keep out of sight. Long + after honour is satisfied, indeed, as it seems to me, long after the + dictates of common decency would call a halt that persistent and + single-minded pursuer bounds solemnly and conscientiously along in the + wake of his disgusted rival. + </p> + <p> + These and the zebra and wildebeeste were at Juja the most conspicuous game + animals. If they could not for the moment be seen from the veranda of the + house itself, a short walk to the gate was sufficient to reveal many + hundreds. Among them fed herds of the smaller Thompson's gazelle, or + “Tommies.” So small were they that only their heads could be seen above + the tall grass as they ran. + </p> + <p> + To me there was never-ending fascination in walking out over those sloppy + plains in search of adventure, and in the pleasure of watching the beasts. + Scarcely less fascination haunted a stroll down the river canyons or along + the tops of the bluffs above them. Here the country was broken into rocky + escarpments in which were caves; was clothed with low and scattered brush; + or was wooded in the bottom lands. Naturally an entirely different set of + animals dwelt here; and in addition one was often treated to the romance + of surprise. Herds of impalla haunted these edges; graceful creatures, + trim and pretty with wide horns and beautiful glowing red coats. Sometimes + they would venture out on the open plains, in a very compact band, ready + to break back for cover at the slightest alarm; but generally fed inside + the fringe of bushes. Once from the bluff above I saw a beautiful herd of + over a hundred pacing decorously along the river bottom below me, single + file, the oldest buck at the head, and the miscellaneous small buck + bringing up the rear after the does. I shouted at them. Immediately the + solemn procession broke. They began to leap, springing straight up into + the air as though from a released spring, or diving forward and upward in + long graceful bounds like dolphins at sea. These leaps were incredible. + Several even jumped quite over the backs of others; and all without a + semblance of effort. + </p> + <p> + Along the fringe of the river, too, dwelt the lordly waterbuck, + magnificent and proud as the stags of Landseer; and the tiny steinbuck and + duiker, no bigger than jack-rabbits, but perfect little deer for all that. + The incredibly plebeian wart-hog rooted about; and down in the bottom + lands were leopards. I knocked one off a rock one day. In the river itself + dwelt hippopotamuses and crocodiles. One of the latter dragged under a + yearling calf just below the house itself, and while we were there. + Besides these were of course such affairs as hyenas and jackals, and great + numbers of small game: hares, ducks, three kinds of grouse, guinea fowl, + pigeons, quail, and jack snipe, not to speak of a variety of plover. + </p> + <p> + In the drier extents of dry grass atop the bluffs the dance birds were + especially numerous; each with his dance ring nicely trodden out, each + leaping and falling rhythmically for hours at a time. Toward sunset great + flights of sand grouse swarmed across the yellowing sky from some distant + feeding ground. + </p> + <p> + Near Juja I had one of the three experiences that especially impressed on + my mind the abundance of African big game. I had stalked and wounded a + wildebeeste across the N'derogo River, and had followed him a mile or so + afoot, hoping to be able to put in a finishing shot. As sometimes happens + the animal rather gained strength as time went on; so I signalled for my + horse, mounted, and started out to run him down. After a quarter mile we + began to pick up the game herds. Those directly in our course ran straight + away; other herds on either side, seeing them running, came across in a + slant to join them. Inside of a half mile I was driving before me + literally thousands of head of game of several varieties. The dust rose in + a choking cloud that fairly obscured the landscape, and the drumming of + the hooves was like the stampeding of cattle. It was a wonderful sight. + </p> + <p> + On the plains of Juja, also, I had my one real African Adventure, when, as + in the Sunday Supplements, I Stared Death in the Face-also everlasting + disgrace and much derision. We were just returning to the farm after an + afternoon's walk, and as we approached I began to look around for much + needed meat. A herd of zebra stood in sight; so leaving Memba Sasa I began + to stalk them. My usual weapon for this sort of thing was the Springfield, + for which I carried extra cartridges in my belt. On this occasion, + however, I traded with Memba Sasa for the 405, simply for the purpose of + trying it out. At a few paces over three hundred yards I landed on the + zebra, but did not knock him down. Then I set out to follow. It was a long + job and took me far, for again and again he joined other zebra, when, of + course, I could not tell one from t'other. My only expedient was to + frighten the lot. There upon the uninjured ones would distance the one + that was hurt. The latter kept his eye on me. Whenever I managed to get + within reasonable distance, I put up the rear sight of the 405, and let + drive. I heard every shot hit, and after each hit was more than a little + astonished to see the zebra still on his feet, and still able to wobble + on.* The fifth shot emptied the rifle. As I had no more cartridges for + this arm, I approached to within sixty yards, and stopped to wait either + for him to fall, or for a very distant Memba Sasa to come up with more + cartridges. Then the zebra waked up. He put his ears back and came + straight in my direction. This rush I took for a blind death flurry, and + so dodged off to one side, thinking that he would of course go by me. Not + at all! He swung around on the circle too, and made after me. I could see + that his ears were back, eyes blazing, and his teeth snapping with rage. + It was a malicious charge, and, as such, with due deliberation, I offer it + to sportsman's annals. As I had no more cartridges I ran away as fast as I + could go. Although I made rather better time than ever I had attained to + before, it was evident that the zebra would catch me; and as the brute + could paw, bite, and kick, I did not much care for the situation. Just as + he had nearly reached me, and as I was trying to figure on what kind of a + fight I could put up with a clubbed rifle barrel, he fell dead. To be + killed by a lion is at least a dignified death; but to be mauled by a + zebra! + </p> + <p> + I am sorry I did not try out this heavy-calibred rifle oftener at long + range. It was a marvellously effective weapon at close quarters; but I + have an idea-but only a tentative idea-that above three hundred yards its + velocity is so reduced by air resistance against the big blunt bullet as + greatly to impair its hitting powers. + </p> + <p> + We generally got back from our walks or rides just before dark to find the + house gleaming with lights, a hot bath ready, and a tray of good wet + drinks next the easy chairs. There, after changing our clothes, we sipped + and read the papers-two months off the press, but fresh arrived for all + that-until a white-robed, dignified figure appeared in the doorway to + inform us that dinner was ready. Our ways were civilized and soft, then, + until the morrow when once again, perhaps, we went forth into the African + wilderness. + </p> + <p> + Juja is a place of startling contrasts-of naked savages clipping formal + hedges, of windows opening from a perfectly appointed brilliantly lighted + dining-room to a night whence float the lost wails of hyenas or the deep + grumbling of lions, of cushioned luxurious chairs in reach of many books, + but looking out on hills where the game herds feed, of comfortable beds + with fine linen and soft blankets where one lies listening to the voices + of an African night, or the weirder minor house noises whose origin and + nature no man could guess, of tennis courts and summer houses, of lawns + and hammocks, of sundials and clipped hedges separated only by a few + strands of woven wire from fields identical with those in which roamed the + cave men of the Pleistocene. But to Billy was reserved the most ridiculous + contrast of all. Her bedroom opened to a veranda a few feet above a formal + garden. This was a very formal garden, with a sundial, gravelled walks, + bordered flower beds, and clipped border hedges. One night she heard a + noise outside. Slipping on a warm wrap and seizing her trusty revolver she + stole out on the veranda to investigate. She looked over the veranda rail. + There just below her, trampling the flower beds, tracking the gravel + walks, endangering the sundial, stood a hippopotamus! + </p> + <p> + We had neighbours six or seven miles away. At times they came down to + spend the night and luxuriate in the comforts of civilization. They were a + Lady A., and her nephew, and a young Scotch acquaintance the nephew had + taken into partnership. They had built themselves circular houses of + papyrus reeds with conical thatched roofs and earth floors, had purchased + ox teams and gathered a dozen or so Kikuyus, and were engaged in breaking + a farm in the wilderness. The life was rough and hard, and Lady A. and her + nephew gently bred, but they seemed to be having quite cheerfully the time + of their lives. The game furnished them meat, as it did all of us, and + they hoped in time that their labours would make the land valuable and + productive. Fascinating as was the life, it was also one of many + deprivations. At Juja were a number of old copies of Life, the pretty + girls in which so fascinated the young men that we broke the laws of + propriety by presenting them, though they did not belong to us. C., the + nephew, was of the finest type of young Englishman, clean cut, + enthusiastic, good looking, with an air of engaging vitality and optimism. + His partner, of his own age, was an insufferable youth. Brought up in some + small Scottish valley, his outlook had never widened. Because he wanted to + buy four oxen at a cheaper price, he tried desperately to abrogate + quarantine regulations. If he had succeeded, he would have made a few + rupees, but would have introduced disease in his neighbours' herds. This + consideration did not affect him. He was much given to sneering at what he + could not understand; and therefore, a great deal met with his + disapproval. His reading had evidently brought him down only to about the + middle sixties; and affairs at that date were to him still burning + questions. Thus he would declaim vehemently over the Alabama claims. + </p> + <p> + “I blush with shame,” he would cry, “when I think of England's attitude in + that matter.” + </p> + <p> + We pointed out that the dispute had been amicably settled by the best + minds of the time, had passed between the covers of history, and had given + way in immediate importance to several later topics. + </p> + <p> + “This vacillating policy,” he swept on, “annoys me. For my part, I should + like to see so firm a stand taken on all questions that in any part of the + world, whenever a man, and wherever a man, said 'I am an Englishman? + everybody else would draw back!'” + </p> + <p> + He was an incredible person. However, I was glad to see him; he and a few + others of his kind have consoled me for a number of Americans I have met + abroad. Lady A., with the tolerant philosophy of her class, seemed merely + amused. I have often since wondered how this ill-assorted partnership + turned out. + </p> + <p> + Two other neighbours of ours dropped in once or twice-twenty-six miles on + bicycles, on which they could ride only a portion of the distance. They + had some sort of a ranch up in the Ithanga Hills; and were two of the + nicest fellows one would want to meet, brimful of energy, game for + anything, and had so good a time always that the grumpiest fever could not + prevent every one else having a good time too. Once they rode on their + bicycles forty miles to Nairobi, danced half the night at a Government + House ball, rode back in the early morning, and did an afternoon's + plowing! They explained this feat by pointing out most convincingly that + the ground was just right for plowing, but they did not want to miss the + ball! + </p> + <p> + Occasionally a trim and dapper police official would drift in on horseback + looking for native criminals; and once a safari came by. Twelve miles away + was the famous Kamiti Farm of Heatly, where Roosevelt killed his buffalo; + and once or twice Heatly himself, a fine chap, came to see us. Also just + before I left with Duirs for a lion hunt on Kapiti, Lady Girouard, wife of + the Governor, and her nephew and niece rode out for a hunt. In the African + fashion, all these people brought their own personal servants. It makes + entertaining easy. Nobody knows where all these boys sleep; but they + manage to tuck away somewhere, and always show up after a mysterious + system of their own whenever there is anything to be done. + </p> + <p> + We stayed at Juja a little over three weeks. Then most reluctantly said + farewell and returned to Nairobi in preparation for a long trip to the + south. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0030" id="link2H_4_0030"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXIX. CHAPTER THE LAST + </h2> + <p> + With our return from Juja to Nairobi for a breathing space, this volume + comes to a logical conclusion. In it I have tried to give a fairly + comprehensive impression-it could hardly be a picture of so large a + subject-of a portion of East Equatorial Africa, its animals, and its + people. Those who are sufficiently interested will have an opportunity in + a succeeding volume of wandering with us even farther afield. The low + jungly coast region; the fierce desert of the Serengetti; the swift sullen + rhinoceros-haunted stretches of the Tsavo; Nairobi, the strangest mixture + of the twentieth centuries A.D. and B.C.; Mombasa with its wild, barbaric + passionate ebb and flow of life, of colour, of throbbing sound, the great + lions of the Kapiti Plains, the Thirst of the Loieta, the Masai spearmen, + the long chase for the greater kudu; the wonderful, high unknown country + beyond the Narossara and other affairs will there be detailed. If the + reader of this volume happens to want more, there he will find it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE" id="link2H_APPE"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + APPENDIX I + </h2> + <p> + Most people are very much interested in how hot it gets in such tropics as + we traversed. Unfortunately it is very difficult to tell them. Temperature + tables have very little to do with the matter, for humidity varies + greatly. On the Serengetti at lower reaches of the Guaso Nyero I have seen + it above 110 degrees. It was hot, to be sure, but not exhaustingly so. On + the other hand, at 90 or 95 degrees the low coast belt I have had the + sweat run from me literally in streams; so that a muddy spot formed + wherever I stood still. In the highlands, moreover, the nights were often + extremely cold. I have recorded night temperatures as low as 40 at 7000 + feet of elevation; and noon temperatures as low 65. + </p> + <p> + Of more importance than the actual or sensible temperature of the air is + the power of the sun's rays. At all times of year this is practically + constant; for the orb merely swings a few degrees north and south of the + equator, and the extreme difference in time between its risings or + settings is not more than twenty minutes. This power is also practically + constant whatever the temperature of the air and is dangerous even on a + cloudy day, when the heat waves are effectually screened off, but when the + actinic rays are as active as ever. For this reason the protection of + helmet and spine pad should never be omitted, no matter what the condition + of the weather, between nine o'clock and four. A very brief exposure is + likely to prove fatal. It should be added that some people stand these + actinic rays better than others. + </p> + <p> + Such being the case, mere temperature tables could have little interest to + the general reader. I append a few statistics, selected from many, and + illustrative of the different conditions. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Locality. Elevation 6am noon 8pm Apparent conditions + Coast —- 80 90 76 Very hot and sticky + Isiola River 2900 65 94 84 Hot but not exhausting + Tans River 3350 68 98 79 Hot but not exhausting + Near Meru 5450 62 80 70 Very pleasant + Serengetti Plains 2200 78 106 86 Hot and humid + Narossara River 5450 54 89 69 Very pleasant + Narossara Mts. 7400 42 80 50 Chilly + Narossara Mts. 6450 40 62 52 Cold +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE2" id="link2H_APPE2"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + APPENDIX II + </h2> + <h3> + GAME ANIMALS COLLECTED + </h3> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Lion Bush pig Grant's gazelle + Serval cat Baboon Thompson's gazelle + Cheetah Colobus Gerenuk gazelle + Black-backed jackal Hippopotamus Coke's hartebeests + Silver jackal Rhinoceros Jackson's hartebeests + Striped hyena Crocodile Neuman's hartebeests + Spotted hyena Python Chandler's reedbuck + Fennec fox Ward's zebra Bohur reedbuck + Honey badger Grevy's zebra Beisa ox + Aardewolf Notata gazelle Fringe-eared oryx + Wart-hog Roberts' gazelle Duiker + Waterbuck Klipspringer Harvey's duiker + Sing-sing Dik-dik Greater kudu + Oribi (3 varieties) Wildebeeste Lesser kudu + Eland Roosevelt's wildebeests Sable antelope + Roan antelope Buffalo + Bushbuck Topi + + Total, fifty-four kinds +</pre> + <p> + GAME BIRDS COLLECTED + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Marabout Gadwall Lesser bustard + Egret European stork Guinea fowl + Glossy ibis Quail Giant guinea fowl + Egyptian goose Sand grouse Green pigeon + White goose Francolin Blue pigeon + English snipe Spur fowl Dove (2 species) + Mallard duck Greater bustard + + Total, twenty-two kinds +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE3" id="link2H_APPE3"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + APPENDIX III + </h2> + <p> + For the benefit of the sportsman and gun crank who want plain facts and no + flapdoodle, the following statistics are offered. To the lay reader this + inclusion will be incomprehensible; but I know my gun crank as I am one + myself! + </p> + <p> + Army Springfield, model 1903 to take the 1906 cartridge, shooting the + Spitzer sharp point bullet. Stocked to suit me by Ludwig Wundhammer, and + fitted with Sheard gold bead front sight and Lyman aperture receiver + sight. With this I did most my shooting, as the trajectory was remarkably + good, and the killing power remarkable. Tried out both the old-fashioned + soft point bullets and the sharp Spitzer bullets, but find the latter far + the more effective. In fact the paralyzing shock given by the Spitzer is + almost beyond belief. African animals are notably tenacious of life; but + the Springfield dropped nearly half the animals dead with one shot; a most + unusual record, as every sportsman will recognize. The bullets seemed on + impact always to flatten slightly at the base, the point remaining + intact-to spin widely on the axis, and to plunge off at an angle. This + action of course depended on the high velocity. The requisite velocity, + however seemed to keep up within all shooting ranges. A kongoni I killed + at 638 paces (measured), and another at 566 paces both exhibited this + action of the bullet. I mention these ranges because I have seen the + statement in print that the remaining velocity beyond 350 yards would not + be sufficient in this arm to prevent the bullet passing through cleanly. I + should also hasten to add that I do not habitually shoot at game at the + above ranges; but did so in these two instances for the precise purpose of + testing the arm. Metal fouling did not bother me at all, though I had been + led to expect trouble from it. The weapon was always cleaned with water so + boiling hot that the heat of the barrel dried it. When occasionally flakes + of metal fouling became visible a Marble brush always sufficed to remove + enough of it. It was my habit to smear the bullets with mobilubricant + before placing them in the magazine. This was not as much of a nuisance as + it sounds. A small tin box about the size of a pill box lasted me the + whole trip; and only once did I completely empty the magazine at one time. + On my return I tested the rifle very thoroughly for accuracy. In spite of + careful cleaning the barrel was in several places slightly corroded. For + this the climate was responsible. The few small pittings, however, did not + seem in any way to have affected the accuracy, as the rifle shot the + following groups: 3-1/2 inches at 200 yards; 7-1/4 inches at 300 yards; + and 11-1/2 inches at 500 yards.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * It shot one five-shot 1-2/3 inch group at 200 yds., and + several others at all distances less than the figures given, + but I am convinced these must have been largely accidental. +</pre> + <p> + These groups were not made from a machine rest, however; as none was + available. The complete record with this arm for my whole stay in Africa + was 307 hits out of 395 cartridges fired, representing 185 head of game + killed. Most of this shooting was for meat and represented also all sorts + of “varmints” as well. + </p> + <p> + The 405 Winchester. This weapon was sighted like the Springfield, and was + constantly in the field as my second gun. For lions it could not be + beaten; as it was very accurate, delivered a hard blow, and held five + cartridges. Beyond 125 to 150 yards one had to begin to guess at distance, + so for ordinary shooting I preferred the Springfield. In thick brush + country, however, where one was likely to come suddenly on rhinoceroes, + but where one wanted to be ready always for desirable smaller game, the + Winchester was just the thing. It was short, handy, and reliable. One + experience with a zebra 300-350 yards has made me question whether at long + (hunting) ranges the remaining velocity of the big blunt nosed bullet is + not seriously reduced; but as to that I have not enough data for a final + conclusion. I have no doubt, however, that at such ranges, and beyond, the + little Springfield has more shocking power. Of course at closer ranges the + Winchester is by far the more powerful. I killed one rhinoceros with the + 405, one buffalo and one hippo; but should consider it too light for an + emergency gun against the larger dangerous animals, such as buffalo and + rhinoceros. If one has time for extreme accuracy, and can pick the shot, + it is plenty big; but I refer now to close quarters in a hurry. I had no + trouble whatever with the mechanism of this arm; nor have I ever had + trouble with any of the lever actions, although I have used them for many + years. As regards speed of fire the controversy between the lever and bolt + action advocates seems to me foolish in the extreme. Either action can be + fired faster than it should be fired in the presence of game. It is my + belief that any man, no matter how practised or how cool, can stampede + himself beyond his best accuracy by pumping out his shots too rapidly. + This is especially true in the face of charging dangerous game. So firmly + do I believe this that I generally take the rifle from my shoulder between + each shot. Even aimed rapid fire is of no great value as compared with + better aimed slower fire. The first bullet delivers to an animal's nervous + system about all the shock it can absorb. If the beast is not thereby + knocked down and held down, subsequent shots can accomplish that desirable + result only by reaching a vital spot or by tearing tissue. As an example + of this I might instance a waterbuck into which I saw my companion empty + five heavy 465 and double 500 bullets from cordite rifles before it fell! + Thus if the game gets to its feet after the first shock, it is true that + the hunter will often empty into it six or seven more bullets without + apparent result, unless he aims carefully for a centrally vital point. It + follows that therefore a second shot aimed with enough care to land it in + that point is worth a lot more than a half dozen delivered in three or + four seconds with only the accuracy necessary to group decently at very + short range, even if all of them hit the beast. I am perfectly aware that + this view will probably be disputed; but it is the result of considerable + experience, close observation and real interest in the game. The whole + record of the Winchester was 56 hits out of 70 cartridges fired; + representing 27 head of game. + </p> + <p> + The 465 Holland & Holland double cordite rifle. This beautiful weapon, + built and balanced like a fine hammerless shotgun, was fitted with open + sights. It was of course essentially a close range emergency gun, but was + capable of accurate work at a distance. I killed one buffalo dead with it, + across a wide canyon, with the 300-yard leaf up on the back sight. Its + game list however was limited to rhinoceroses, hippopotamuses, buffaloes + and crocodiles. The recoil in spite of its weight of twelve and one half + pounds, was tremendous; but unnoticeable when I was shooting at any of + these brutes. Its total record was 31 cartridges fired with 29 hits + representing 13 head of game. + </p> + <p> + The conditions militating against marksmanship are often severe. Hard work + in the tropics is not the most steadying regime in the world, and outside + a man's nerves, he is often bothered by queer lights, and the effects of + the mirage that swirls from the sun-heated plain. The ranges, too, are + rather long. I took the trouble to pace out about every kill, and find + that antelope in the plains averaged 245 yards; with a maximum of 638 + yards, while antelope in covered country averaged 148 yards, with a + maximum of 311. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE4" id="link2H_APPE4"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + APPENDIX IV. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA + </h2> + <h3> + IN WHICH HE APPEARS AS DIFFERENT FROM THE ENGLISHMAN + </h3> + <p> + It is always interesting to play the other fellow's game his way, and + then, in light of experience, to see wherein our way and his way modify + each other. + </p> + <p> + The above proposition here refers to camping. We do considerable of it in + our country, especially in our North and West. After we have been at it + for some time, we evolve a method of our own. The basis of that method is + to do without; to GO LIGHT. At first even the best of us will carry too + much plunder, but ten years of philosophy and rainstorms, trails and + trials, will bring us to an irreducible minimum. A party of three will get + along with two pack horses, say; or, on a harder trip, each will carry the + necessities on his own back. To take just as little as is consistent with + comfort is to play the game skilfully. Any article must pay in use for its + transportation. + </p> + <p> + With this ideal deeply ingrained by the test of experience, the American + camper is appalled by the caravan his British cousins consider necessary + for a trip into the African back country. His said cousin has, perhaps, + very kindly offered to have his outfit ready for him when he arrives. He + does arrive to find from one hundred to one hundred and fifty men gathered + as his personal attendants. + </p> + <p> + “Great Scot!” he cries, “I want to go camping; I don't want to invade + anybody's territory. Why the army?” + </p> + <p> + He discovers that these are porters, to carry his effects. + </p> + <p> + “What effects?” he demands, bewildered. As far as he knows, he has two + guns, some ammunition, and a black tin box, bought in London, and + half-filled with extra clothes, a few medicines, a thermometer, and some + little personal knick-knacks. He has been wondering what else he is going + to put in to keep things from rattling about. Of course he expected + besides these to take along a little plain grub, and some blankets, and a + frying pan and kettle or so. + </p> + <p> + The English friend has known several Americans, so he explains patiently. + </p> + <p> + “I know this seems foolish to you,” he says, “but you must remember you + are under the equator and you must do things differently here. As long as + you keep fit you are safe; but if you get run down a bit you'll go. You've + got to do yourself well, down here, rather better than you have to in any + other climate. You need all the comfort you can get; and you want to save + yourself all you can.” + </p> + <p> + This has a reasonable sound and the American does not yet know the game. + Recovering from his first shock, he begins to look things over. There is a + double tent, folding camp chair, folding easy chair, folding table, wash + basin, bath tub, cot, mosquito curtains, clothes hangers; there are oil + lanterns, oil carriers, two loads of mysterious cooking utensils and cook + camp stuff; there is an open fly, which his friend explains is his dining + tent; and there are from a dozen to twenty boxes standing in a row, each + with its padlock. “I didn't go in for luxury,” apologizes the English + friend. “Of course we can easily add anything you want but I remember you + wrote me that you wanted to travel light.” + </p> + <p> + “What are those?” our American inquires, pointing to the locked boxes. + </p> + <p> + He learns that they are chop boxes, containing food and supplies. At this + he rises on his hind legs and paws the air. + </p> + <p> + “Food!” he shrieks. “Why, man alive, I'm alone, and I am only going to be + out three months! I can carry all I'll ever eat in three months in one of + those boxes.” + </p> + <p> + But the Englishman patiently explains. You cannot live on “bacon and + beans” in this country, so to speak. You must do yourself rather well, you + know, to keep in condition. And you cannot pack food in bags, it must be + tinned. And then, of course, such things as your sparklet siphons and lime + juice require careful packing-and your champagne. + </p> + <p> + “Champagne,” breathes the American in awestricken tones. + </p> + <p> + “Exactly, dear boy, an absolute necessity. After a touch of sun there's + nothing picks you up better than a mouthful of fizz. It's used as a + medicine, not a drink, you understand.” + </p> + <p> + The American reflects again that this is the other fellow's game, and that + the other fellow has been playing it for some time, and that he ought to + know. But he cannot yet see why the one hundred and fifty men. Again the + Englishman explains. There is the Headman to run the show. Correct: we + need him. Then there are four askaris. What are they? Native soldiers. No, + you won't be fighting anything; but they keep the men going, and act as + sort of sub-foremen in bossing the complicated work. Next is your cook, + and your own valet and that of your horse. Also your two gunbearers. + </p> + <p> + “Hold on!” cries our friend. “I have only two guns, and I'm going to carry + one myself.” + </p> + <p> + But this, he learns, is quite impossible. It is never done. It is + absolutely necessary, in this climate, to avoid all work. + </p> + <p> + That makes how many? Ten already, and there seem to be three tent loads, + one bed load, one chair and table load, one lantern load, two + miscellaneous loads, two cook loads, one personal box, and fifteen chop + boxes-total twenty-six, plus the staff, as above, thirty-six. Why all the + rest of the army? + </p> + <p> + Very simple: these thirty-six men have, according to regulation, seven + tents, and certain personal effects, and they must have “potio” or a + ration of one and a half pounds per diem. These things must be carried by + more men. + </p> + <p> + “I see,” murmurs the American, crushed, “and these more men have more + tents and more potio, which must also be carried. It's like the House that + Jack Built.” + </p> + <p> + So our American concludes still once again that the other fellow knows his + own game, and starts out. He learns he has what is called a “modest + safari”; and spares a fleeting wonder as to what a really elaborate safari + must be. The procession takes the field. He soon sees the value of the + four askaris-the necessity of whom he has secretly doubted. Without their + vigorous seconding the headman would have a hard time indeed. Also, when + he observes the labour of tent-making, packing, washing, and general + service performed by his tent boy, he abandons the notion that that + individual could just as well take care of the horse as well, especially + as the horse has to have all his grass cut and brought to him. At evening + our friend has a hot bath, a long cool fizzly drink of lime juice and + soda; he puts on the clean clothes laid out for him, assumes soft mosquito + boots, and sits down to dinner. This is served to him in courses, and on + enamel ware. Each course has its proper-sized plate and cutlery. He starts + with soup, goes down through tinned whitebait or other fish, an entree, a + roast, perhaps a curry, a sweet, and small coffee. He is certainly being + “done well,” and he enjoys the comfort of it. + </p> + <p> + There comes a time when he begins to wonder a little. It is all very + pleasant, of course, and perhaps very necessary; they all tell him it is. + But, after all, it is a little galling to the average man to think that of + him. Your Englishman doesn't mind that; he enjoys being taken care of: but + the sportsman of American training likes to stand on his own feet as far + as he is able and conditions permit. Besides, it is expensive. Besides + that, it is a confounded nuisance, especially when potio gives out and + more must be sought, near or far. Then, if he is wise, he begins to do a + little figuring on his own account. + </p> + <p> + My experience was very much as above. Three of us went out for eleven + weeks with what was considered a very “modest” safari indeed. It comprised + one hundred and eighteen men. My fifth and last trip, also with two + companions, was for three months. Our personnel consisted, all told, forty + men. + </p> + <p> + In essentials the Englishman is absolutely right. One cannot camp in + Africa as one would at home. The experimenter would be dead in a month. In + his application of that principle, however, he seems to the American point + of view to overshoot. Let us examine his proposition in terms of the + essentials-food, clothing, shelter. There is no doubt but that a man must + keep in top condition as far as possible; and that, to do so, he must have + plenty of good food. He can never do as we do on very hard trips at home: + take a little tea, sugar, coffee, flour, salt, oatmeal. But on the other + hand, he certainly does not need a five-course dinner every night, nor a + complete battery of cutlery, napery and table ware to eat it from. Flour, + sugar, oatmeal, tea and coffee, rice, beans, onions, curry, dried fruits, + a little bacon, and some dehydrated vegetables will do him very well + indeed-with what he can shoot. These will pack in waterproof bags very + comfortably. In addition to feeding himself well, he finds he must not + sleep next to the ground, he must have a hot bath every day, but never a + cold one, and he must shelter himself with a double tent against the sun. + </p> + <p> + Those are the absolute necessities of the climate. In other words, if he + carries a double tent, a cot, a folding bath; and gives a little attention + to a properly balanced food supply, he has met the situation. + </p> + <p> + If, in addition, he takes canned goods, soda siphons, lime juice, easy + chairs and all the rest of the paraphernalia, he is merely using a basic + principle as an excuse to include sheer luxuries. In further extenuation + of this he is apt to argue that porters are cheap, and that it costs but + little more to carry these extra comforts. Against this argument, of + course, I have nothing to say. It is the inalienable right of every man to + carry all the luxuries he wants. My point is that the average American + sportsman does not want them, and only takes them because he is + overpersuaded that these things are not luxuries, but necessities. For, + mark you, he could take the same things into the Sierras or the North-by + paying; but he doesn't. + </p> + <p> + I repeat, it is the inalienable right of any man to travel as luxuriously + as he pleases. But by the same token it is not his right to pretend that + luxuries are necessities. That is to put himself into the same category + with the man who always finds some other excuse for taking a drink than + the simple one that he wants it. + </p> + <p> + The Englishman's point of view is that he objects to “pigging it,” as he + says. “Pigging it” means changing your home habits in any way. If you have + been accustomed to eating your sardines after a meal, and somebody offers + them to you first, that is “pigging it.” In other words, as nearly as I + can make out, “pigging it” does not so much mean doing things in an + inadequate fashion as DOING THEM DIFFERENTLY. Therefore, the Englishman in + the field likes to approximate as closely as may be his life in town, even + if it takes one hundred and fifty men to do it. Which reduces the “pigging + it” argument to an attempt at condemnation by calling names. + </p> + <p> + The American temperament, on the contrary, being more experimental and + independent, prefers to build anew upon its essentials. Where the + Englishman covers the situation blanket-wise with his old institutions, + the American prefers to construct new institutions on the necessities of + the case. He objects strongly to being taken care of too completely. He + objects strongly to losing the keen enjoyment of overcoming difficulties + and enduring hardships. The Englishman by habit and training has no such + objections. He likes to be taken care of, financially, personally, and + everlastingly. That is his ideal of life. If he can be taken care of + better by employing three hundred porters and packing eight tin trunks of + personal effects-as I have seen it done-he will so employ and take. That + is all right: he likes it. + </p> + <p> + But the American does not like it. A good deal of the fun for him is in + going light, in matching himself against his environment. It is no fun to + him to carry his complete little civilization along with him, laboriously. + If he must have cotton wool, let it be as little cotton wool as possible. + He likes to be comfortable; but he likes to be comfortable with the + minimum of means. Striking just the proper balance somehow adds to his + interest in the game. And how he DOES object to that ever-recurring + thought-that he is such a helpless mollusc that it requires a small + regiment to get him safely around the country! + </p> + <p> + Both means are perfectly legitimate, of course; and neither view is open + to criticism. All either man is justified in saying is that he, + personally, wouldn't get much fun out of doing it the other way. As a + matter of fact, human nature generally goes beyond its justifications and + is prone to criticise. The Englishman waxes a trifle caustic on the + subject of “pigging it”; and the American indulges in more than a bit of + sarcasm on the subject of “being led about Africa like a dog on a string.” + </p> + <p> + By some such roundabout mental process as the above the American comes to + the conclusion that he need not necessarily adopt the other fellow's + method of playing this game. His own method needs modification, but it + will do. He ventures to leave out the tables and easy chair, takes a camp + stool and eats off a chop box. To the best of his belief his health does + not suffer from this. He gets on with a camper's allowance of plate, cup + and cutlery, and so cuts out a load and a half of assorted kitchen + utensils and table ware. He even does without a tablecloth and napkins! He + discards the lime juice and siphons, and purchases a canvas evaporation + bag to cool the water. He fires one gunbearer, and undertakes the + formidable physical feat of carrying one of his rifles himself. And, above + all, he modifies that grub list. The purchase of waterproof bags gets rid + of a lot of tin: the staple groceries do quite as well as London fancy + stuff. Golden syrup takes the place of all the miscellaneous jams, + marmalades and other sweets. The canned goods go by the board. He lays in + a stock of dried fruit. At the end, he is possessed of a grub list but + little different from that of his Rocky Mountain trips. Some few items he + has cut down; and some he has substituted; but bulk and weight are the + same. For his three months' trip he has four or five chop boxes all told. + </p> + <p> + And then suddenly he finds that thus he has made a reduction all along the + line. Tent load, two men; grub and kitchen, five men; personal, one man; + bed, one man; miscellaneous, one or two. There is now no need for headmen + and askaris to handle this little lot. Twenty more to carry food for the + men-he is off with a quarter of the number of his first “modest safari.” + </p> + <p> + You who are sportsmen and are not going to Africa, as is the case with + most, will perhaps read this, because we are always interested in how the + other fellow does it. To the few who are intending an exploration of the + dark continent this concentration of a year's experience may be valuable. + Remember to sleep off the ground, not to starve yourself, to protect + yourself from the sun, to let negroes do all hard work but marching and + hunting. Do these things your own way, using your common-sense on how to + get at it. You'll be all right. + </p> + <p> + That, I conceive, covers the case. The remainder of your equipment has to + do with camp affairs, and merely needs listing. The question here is not + of the sort to get, but of what to take. The tents, cooking affairs, etc., + are well adapted to the country. In selecting your tent, however, you will + do very well to pick out one whose veranda fly reaches fairly to the + ground, instead of stopping halfway. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 1 tent and ground sheet + 1 folding cot and cork mattress, + 1 pillow, 3 single blankets + 1 combined folding bath and ashstand (“X” brand) + 1 camp stool + 3 folding candle lanterns + 1 gallon turpentine + 3 lbs. alum + 1 river rope + Sail needles and twine + 3 pangas (native tools for chopping and digging) + Cook outfit (select these yourself, and cut out the extras) + 2 axes (small) + Plenty laundry soap + Evaporation bag + 2 pails + 10 yards cotton cloth (“Mericani”) +</pre> + <p> + These things, your food, your porters' outfits and what trade goods you + may need are quite sufficient. You will have all you want, and not too + much. If you take care of yourself, you ought to keep in good health. Your + small outfit permits greater mobility than does that of the English + cousin, infinitely less nuisance and expense. Furthermore, you feel that + once more you are “next to things,” instead of “being led about Africa + like a dog on a string.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE5" id="link2H_APPE5"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + APPENDIX V. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA + </h2> + <h3> + WHAT HE SHOULD TAKE + </h3> + <p> + Before going to Africa I read as many books as I could get hold of on the + subject, some of them by Americans. In every case the authors have given a + chapter detailing the necessary outfit. Invariably they have followed the + Englishman's ideas almost absolutely. Nobody has ventured to modify those + ideas in any essential manner. Some have deprecatingly ventured to remark + that it is as well to leave out the tinned carfare-if you do not like + carfare; but that is as far as they care to go. The lists are those of the + firms who make a business of equipping caravans. The heads of such firms + are generally old African travellers. They furnish the equipment their + customers demand; and as English sportsmen generally all demand the same + thing, the firms end by issuing a printed list of essentials for shooting + parties in Africa, including carfare. Travellers follow the lists blindly, + and later copy them verbatim into their books. Not one has thought to + empty out the whole bag of tricks, to examine them in the light of reason, + and to pick out what a man of American habits, as contrasted to one of + English habits, would like to have. This cannot be done a priori; it + requires the test of experience to determine how to meet, in our own way, + the unusual demands of climate and conditions. + </p> + <p> + And please note, when the heads of these equipment firms, these old + African travellers, take the field for themselves, they pay no attention + whatever to their own printed lists of “essentials.” + </p> + <p> + Now, premising that the English sportsman has, by many years' experience, + worked out just what he likes to take into the field; and assuring you + solemnly that his ideas are not in the least the ideas of American + sportsman, let us see if we cannot do something for ourselves. + </p> + <p> + At present the American has either to take over in toto the English idea, + which is not adapted to him, and is-TO HIM-a nuisance, or to go it blind, + without experience except that acquired in a temperate climate, which is + dangerous. I am not going to copy out the English list again, even for + comparison. I have not the space; and if curious enough, you can find it + in any book on modern African travel. Of course I realize well that few + Americans go to Africa; but I also realize well that the sportsman is a + crank, a wild and eager enthusiast over items of equipment anywhere. + He-and I am thinking emphatically of him-would avidly devour the details + of the proper outfit for the gentle art of hunting the totally extinct + whiffenpoof. + </p> + <p> + Let us begin, first of all, with: + </p> + <p> + Personal Equipment Clothes. On the top of your head you must have a sun + helmet. Get it of cork, not of pith. The latter has a habit of melting + unobtrusively about your ears when it rains. A helmet in brush is the next + noisiest thing to a circus band, so it is always well to have, also, a + double terai. This is not something to eat. It is a wide felt hat, and + then another wide felt hat on top of that. The + vertical-rays-of-the-tropical-sun (pronounced as one word to save time + after you have heard and said it a thousand times) are supposed to get + tangled and lost somewhere between the two hats. It is not, however, a + good contraption to go in all day when the sun is strong. + </p> + <p> + As underwear you want the lightest Jaeger wool. Doesn't sound well for + tropics, but it is an essential. You will sweat enough anyway, even if you + get down to a brass wire costume like the natives. It is when you stop in + the shade, or the breeze, or the dusk of evening, that the trouble comes. + A chill means trouble, SURE. Two extra suits are all you want. There is no + earthly sense in bringing more. Your tent boy washes them out whenever he + can lay hands on them-it is one of his harmless manias. + </p> + <p> + Your shirt should be of the thinnest brown flannel. Leather the shoulders, + and part way down the upper arm, with chamois. This is to protect your + precious garment against the thorns when you dive through them. On the + back you have buttons sewed wherewith to attach a spine pad. Before I went + to Africa I searched eagerly for information or illustration of a spine + pad. I guessed what it must be for, and to an extent what it must be like, + but all writers maintained a conservative reticence as to the thing + itself. Here is the first authorized description. A spine pad is a quilted + affair in consistency like the things you are supposed to lift hot + flat-irons with. On the outside it is brown flannel, like the shirt; on + the inside it is a gaudy orange colour. The latter is not for aesthetic + effect, but to intercept actinic rays. It is eight or ten inches wide, is + shaped to button close up under your collar, and extends halfway down your + back. In addition it is well to wear a silk handkerchief around the neck; + as the spine and back of the head seem to be the most vulnerable to the + sun. + </p> + <p> + For breeches, suit yourself as to material. It will have to be very tough, + and of fast colour. The best cut is the “semi-riding,” loose at the knees, + which should be well faced with soft leather, both for crawling, and to + save the cloth in grass and low brush. One pair ought to last four months, + roughly speaking. You will find a thin pair of ordinary khaki trousers + very comfortable as a change for wear about camp. In passing I would call + your attention to “shorts.” Shorts are loose, bobbed off khaki breeches, + like knee drawers. With them are worn puttees or leather leggings, and low + boots. The knees are bare. They are much affected by young Englishmen. I + observed them carefully at every opportunity, and my private opinion is + that man has rarely managed to invent as idiotically unfitted a + contraption for the purpose in hand. In a country teeming with poisonous + insects, ticks, fever-bearing mosquitoes; in a country where vegetation is + unusually well armed with thorns, spines and hooks, mostly poisonous; in a + country where, oftener than in any other a man is called upon to get down + on his hands and knees and crawl a few assorted abrading miles, it would + seem an obvious necessity to protect one's bare skin as much as possible. + The only reason given for these astonishing garments is that they are + cooler and freer to walk in. That I can believe. But they allow ticks and + other insects to crawl up, mosquitoes to bite, thorns to tear, and + assorted troubles to enter. And I can vouch by experience that ordinary + breeches are not uncomfortably hot or tight. Indeed, one does not get + especially hot in the legs anyway. I noticed that none of the old-time + hunters like Cuninghame or Judd wore shorts. The real reason is not that + they are cool, but that they are picturesque. Common belief to the + contrary, your average practical, matter-of-fact Englishman loves to dress + up. I knew one engaged in farming-picturesque farming-in our own West, who + used to appear at afternoon tea in a clean suit of blue overalls! It is a + harmless amusement. Our own youths do it, also, substituting chaps for + shorts, perhaps. I am not criticising the spirit in them; but merely + trying to keep mistaken shorts off you. + </p> + <p> + For leg gear I found that nothing could beat our American combination of + high-laced boots and heavy knit socks. Leather leggings are noisy, and the + rolled puttees hot and binding. Have your boots ten or twelve inches high, + with a flap to buckle over the tie of the laces, with soles of the + mercury-impregnated leather called “elk hide,” and with small Hungarian + hobs. Your tent boy will grease these every day with “dubbin,” of which + you want a good supply. It is not my intention to offer free + advertisements generally, but I wore one pair of boots all the time I was + in Africa, through wet, heat, and long, long walking. They were in good + condition when I gave them away finally, and had not started a stitch. + They were made by that excellent craftsman, A. A. Cutter, of Eau Claire, + Wis., and he deserves and is entirely welcome to this puff. Needless to + remark, I have received no especial favours from Mr. Cutter. + </p> + <p> + Six pairs of woollen socks, knit by hand, if possible-will be enough. For + evening, when you come in, I know nothing better than a pair of very high + moosehide moccasins. They should, however, be provided with thin soles + against the stray thorn, and should reach well above the ankle by way of + defence against the fever mosquito. That festive insect carries on a + surreptitious guerrilla warfare low down. The English “mosquito boot” is + simply an affair like a riding boot, made of suede leather, with thin + soles. It is most comfortable. My objection is that it is unsubstantial + and goes to pieces in a very brief time even under ordinary evening wear + about camp. + </p> + <p> + You will also want a coat. In American camping I have always maintained + the coat is a useless garment. There one does his own work to a large + extent. When at work or travel the coat is in the way. When in camp the + sweater or buckskin shirt is handier, and more easily carried. In Africa, + however, where the other fellow does most of the work, a coat is often + very handy. Do not make the mistake of getting an unlined light-weight + garment. When you want it at all, you want it warm and substantial. Stick + on all the pockets possible, and have them button securely. + </p> + <p> + For wet weather there is nothing to equal a long and voluminous cape. + Straps crossing the chest and around the waist permit one to throw it off + the shoulders to shoot. It covers the hands, the rifle-most of the little + horses or mules one gets out there. One can sleep in or on it, and it is a + most effective garment against heavy winds. One suit of pajamas is enough, + considering your tent boy's commendable mania for laundry work. Add + handkerchiefs and you are fixed. + </p> + <p> + You will wear most of the above, and put what remains in your “officer's + box.” This is a thin steel, air-tight affair with a wooden bottom, and is + the ticket for African work. + </p> + <p> + Sporting. Pick out your guns to suit yourself. You want a light one and a + heavy one. + </p> + <p> + When I came to send out my ammunition, I was forced again to take the + other fellow's experience. I was told by everybody that I should bring + plenty, that it was better to have too much than too little, etc. I rather + thought so myself, and accordingly shipped a trifle over 1,500 rounds of + small bore cartridges. Unfortunately, I never got into the field with any + of my numerous advisers on this point, so cannot state their methods from + first-hand information. Inductive reasoning leads me to believe that they + consider it unsportsmanlike to shoot at a standing animal at all, or at + one running nearer than 250 yards. Furthermore, it is etiquette to + continue firing until the last cloud of dust has died down on the distant + horizon. Only thus can I conceive of getting rid of that amount of + ammunition. In eight months of steady shooting, for example-shooting for + trophies, as well as to feed a safari of fluctuating numbers, counting + jackals, marabout and such small trash-I got away with 395 rounds of small + bore ammunition and about 100 of large. This accounted for 225 kills. That + should give one an idea. Figure out how many animals you are likely to + want for ANY purpose, multiply by three, and bring that many cartridges. + </p> + <p> + To carry these cartridges I should adopt the English system of a stout + leather belt on which you slip various sized pockets and loops to suit the + occasion. Each unit has loops for ten cartridges. You rarely want more + than that; and if you do, your gunbearer is supplied. In addition to the + loops, you have leather pockets to carry your watch; your money, your + matches and tobacco, your compass-anything you please. They are handy and + safe. The tropical climate is too “sticky” to get much comfort, or + anything else, out of ordinary pockets. + </p> + <p> + In addition, you supply your gunbearer with a cartridge belt, a leather or + canvas carrying bag, water bottle for him and for yourself, a sheath knife + and a whetstone. In the bag are your camera, tape line, the whetstone, + field cleaners and lunch. You personally carry your field glasses, sun + glasses, a knife, compass, matches, police whistle and notebook. The field + glasses should not be more than six power; and if possible you should get + the sort with detachable prisms. The prisms are apt to cloud in a tropical + climate, and the non-detachable sort are almost impossible for a layman to + clean. Hang these glasses around your neck by a strap only just long + enough to permit you to raise them to your eyes. The best notebook is the + “loose-leaf” sort. By means of this you can keep always a fresh leaf on + top; and at night can transfer your day's notes to safe keeping in your + tin box. The sun glasses should not be smoked or dark-you can do nothing + with them-but of the new amberol, the sort that excludes the ultra-violet + rays, but otherwise makes the world brighter and gayer. Spectacle frames + of non-corrosive white metal, not steel, are the proper sort. + </p> + <p> + To clean your guns you must supply plenty of oil, and then some more. The + East African gunbearer has a quite proper and gratifying, but most + astonishing horror for a suspicion of rust; and to use oil any faster he + would have to drink it. + </p> + <p> + Other Equipment. All this has taken much time to tell about, it has not + done much toward filling up that tin box. Dump in your toilet effects and + a bath towel, two or three scalpels for taxidermy, a ball of string, some + safety-pins, a small tool kit, sewing materials, a flask of brandy, kodak + films packed in tin, a boxed thermometer, an aneroid (if you are curious + as to elevations), journal, tags for labelling trophies, a few yards of + gun cloth, and the medicine kit. + </p> + <p> + The latter divides into two classes: for your men and for yourself. The + men will suffer from certain well defined troubles: “tumbo,” or + overeating; diarrhaea, bronchial colds, fever and various small injuries. + For “tumbo” you want a liberal supply of Epsom's salts; for diarrhaea you + need chlorodyne; any good expectorant for the colds; quinine for the + fever; permanganate and plenty of bandages for the injuries. With this lot + you can do wonders. For yourself you need, or may need, in addition, a + more elaborate lot: Laxative, quinine, phenacetin, bismuth and soda, + bromide of ammonium, morphia, camphor-ice, and aspirin. A clinical + thermometer for whites and one for blacks should be included. A tin of + malted milk is not a bad thing to take as an emergency ration after fever. + </p> + <p> + By this time your tin box is fairly well provided. You may turn to general + supplies. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </p> + <div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1378 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..05fa695 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #1378 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/1378) diff --git a/old/1378-0.txt b/old/1378-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b545e7a --- /dev/null +++ b/old/1378-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9797 @@ +Project Gutenberg's The Land of Footprints, by Stewart Edward White + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Land of Footprints + +Author: Stewart Edward White + +Posting Date: August 20, 2008 [EBook #1378] +Release Date: July, 1998 +Last Updated: March 12, 2018 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF FOOTPRINTS *** + + + + +Produced by Aaron Cannon + + + + + +THE LAND OF FOOTPRINTS + +by Stewart Edward White + +1913 + + + + +I. ON BOOKS OF ADVENTURE + +Books of sporting, travel, and adventure in countries little known to +the average reader naturally fall in two classes-neither, with a very +few exceptions, of great value. One class is perhaps the logical result +of the other. + +Of the first type is the book that is written to make the most of far +travels, to extract from adventure the last thrill, to impress the +awestricken reader with a full sense of the danger and hardship the +writer has undergone. Thus, if the latter takes out quite an ordinary +routine permit to go into certain districts, he makes the most of +travelling in “closed territory,” implying that he has obtained an +especial privilege, and has penetrated where few have gone before him. +As a matter of fact, the permit is issued merely that the authorities +may keep track of who is where. Anybody can get one. This class of +writer tells of shooting beasts at customary ranges of four and five +hundred yards. I remember one in especial who airily and as a matter +of fact killed all his antelope at such ranges. Most men have shot +occasional beasts at a quarter mile or so, but not airily nor as +a matter of fact: rather with thanksgiving and a certain amount of +surprise. The gentleman of whom I speak mentioned getting an eland at +seven hundred and fifty yards. By chance I happened to mention this to a +native Africander. + +“Yes,” said he, “I remember that; I was there.” + +This interested me-and I said so. + +“He made a long shot,” said I. + +“A GOOD long shot,” replied the Africander. + +“Did you pace the distance?” + +He laughed. “No,” said he, “the old chap was immensely delighted. 'Eight +hundred yards if it was an inch!' he cried.” + +“How far was it?” + +“About three hundred and fifty. But it was a long shot, all right.” + +And it was! Three hundred and fifty yards is a very long shot. It is +over four city blocks-New York size. But if you talk often enough and +glibly enough of “four and five hundred yards,” it does not sound like +much, does it? + +The same class of writer always gets all the thrills. He speaks of +“blanched cheeks,” of the “thrilling suspense,” and so on down the gamut +of the shilling shocker. His stuff makes good reading; there is no +doubt of that. The spellbound public likes it, and to that extent it has +fulfilled its mission. Also, the reader believes it to the letter-why +should he not? Only there is this curious result: he carries away in +his mind the impression of unreality, of a country impossible to +be understood and gauged and savoured by the ordinary human mental +equipment. It is interesting, just as are historical novels, or the +copper-riveted heroes of modern fiction, but it has no real relation +with human life. In the last analysis the inherent untruth of the +thing forces itself on him. He believes, but he does not apprehend; he +acknowledges the fact, but he cannot grasp its human quality. The affair +is interesting, but it is more or less concocted of pasteboard for his +amusement. Thus essential truth asserts its right. + +All this, you must understand, is probably not a deliberate attempt +to deceive. It is merely the recrudescence under the stimulus of a +brand-new environment of the boyish desire to be a hero. When a man +jumps back into the Pleistocene he digs up some of his ancestors' +cave-qualities. Among these is the desire for personal adornment. His +modern development of taste precludes skewers in the ears and polished +wire around the neck; so he adorns himself in qualities instead. It is +quite an engaging and diverting trait of character. The attitude of mind +it both presupposes and helps to bring about is too complicated for my +brief analysis. In itself it is no more blameworthy than the small boy's +pretence at Indians in the back yard; and no more praiseworthy than +infantile decoration with feathers. + +In its results, however, we are more concerned. Probably each of us has +his mental picture that passes as a symbol rather than an idea of the +different continents. This is usually a single picture-a deep river, +with forest, hanging snaky vines, anacondas and monkeys for the east +coast of South America, for example. It is built up in youth by chance +reading and chance pictures, and does as well as a pink place on the +map to stand for a part of the world concerning which we know nothing at +all. As time goes on we extend, expand, and modify this picture in the +light of what knowledge we may acquire. So the reading of many books +modifies and expands our first crude notions of Equatorial Africa. And +the result is, if we read enough of the sort I describe above, we build +the idea of an exciting, dangerous, extra-human continent, visited by +half-real people of the texture of the historical-fiction hero, who have +strange and interesting adventures which we could not possibly imagine +happening to ourselves. + +This type of book is directly responsible for the second sort. The +author of this is deadly afraid of being thought to brag of his +adventures. He feels constantly on him the amusedly critical eye of the +old-timer. When he comes to describe the first time a rhino dashed in +his direction, he remembers that old hunters, who have been so charged +hundreds of times, may read the book. Suddenly, in that light, the +adventure becomes pitifully unimportant. He sets down the fact that “we +met a rhino that turned a bit nasty, but after a shot in the shoulder +decided to leave us alone.” Throughout he keeps before his mind's eye +the imaginary audience of those who have done. He writes for them, +to please them, to convince them that he is not “swelled head,” nor +“cocky,” nor “fancies himself,” nor thinks he has done, been, or seen +anything wonderful. It is a good, healthy frame of mind to be in; but +it, no more than the other type, can produce books that leave on the +minds of the general public any impression of a country in relation to a +real human being. + +As a matter of fact, the same trouble is at the bottom of both failures. +The adventure writer, half unconsciously perhaps, has been too much +occupied play-acting himself into half-forgotten boyhood heroics. The +more modest man, with even more self-consciousness, has been thinking of +how he is going to appear in the eyes of the expert. Both have thought +of themselves before their work. This aspect of the matter would +probably vastly astonish the modest writer. + +If, then, one is to formulate an ideal toward which to write, he might +express it exactly in terms of man and environment. Those readers +desiring sheer exploration can get it in any library: those in search +of sheer romantic adventure can purchase plenty of it at any book-stall. +But the majority want something different from either of these. They +want, first of all, to know what the country is like-not in vague and +grandiose “word paintings,” nor in strange and foreign sounding words +and phrases, but in comparison with something they know. What is it +nearest like-Arizona? Surrey? Upper New York? Canada? Mexico? Or is it +totally different from anything, as is the Grand Canyon? When you look +out from your camp-any one camp-how far do you see, and what do you +see?-mountains in the distance, or a screen of vines or bamboo near +hand, or what? When you get up in the morning, what is the first thing +to do? What does a rhino look like, where he lives, and what did you do +the first time one came at you? I don't want you to tell me as though I +were either an old hunter or an admiring audience, or as though you were +afraid somebody might think you were making too much of the matter. I +want to know how you REALLY felt. Were you scared or nervous? or did you +become cool? Tell me frankly just how it was, so I can see the thing as +happening to a common everyday human being. Then, even at second-hand +and at ten thousand miles distance, I can enjoy it actually, humanly, +even though vicariously, speculating a bit over my pipe as to how I +would have liked it myself. + +Obviously, to write such a book the author must at the same time sink +his ego and exhibit frankly his personality. The paradox in this is only +apparent. He must forget either to strut or to blush with diffidence. +Neither audience should be forgotten, and neither should be exclusively +addressed. Never should he lose sight of the wholesome fact that old +hunters are to read and to weigh; never should he for a moment slip +into the belief that he is justified in addressing the expert alone. His +attitude should be that many men know more and have done more than he, +but that for one reason or another these men are not ready to transmit +their knowledge and experience. + +To set down the formulation of an ideal is one thing: to fulfil it is +another. In the following pages I cannot claim a fulfilment, but only an +attempt. The foregoing dissertation must be considered not as a promise, +but as an explanation. No one knows better than I how limited my +African experience is, both in time and extent, bounded as it is by East +Equatorial Africa and a year. Hundreds of men are better qualified than +myself to write just this book; but unfortunately they will not do it. + + + + +II. AFRICA + +In looking back on the multitudinous pictures that the word Africa +bids rise in my memory, four stand out more distinctly than the +others. Strangely enough, these are by no means all pictures of average +country-the sort of thing one would describe as typical. Perhaps, in a +way, they symbolize more the spirit of the country to me, for certainly +they represent but a small minority of its infinitely varied aspects. +But since we must make a start somewhere, and since for some reason +these four crowd most insistently in the recollection it might be well +to begin with them. + +Our camp was pitched under a single large mimosa tree near the edge of +a deep and narrow ravine down which a stream flowed. A semicircle of low +mountains hemmed us in at the distance of several miles. The other side +of the semicircle was occupied by the upthrow of a low rise blocking +off an horizon at its nearest point but a few hundred yards away. Trees +marked the course of the stream; low scattered bushes alternated with +open plain. The grass grew high. We had to cut it out to make camp. + +Nothing indicated that we were otherwise situated than in a very +pleasant, rather wide grass valley in the embrace of the mountains. Only +a walk of a few hundred yards atop the upthrow of the low rise revealed +the fact that it was in reality the lip of a bench, and that beyond +it the country fell away in sheer cliffs whose ultimate drop was some +fifteen hundred feet. One could sit atop and dangle his feet over +unguessed abysses. + +For a week we had been hunting for greater kudu. Each day Memba Sasa and +I went in one direction, while Mavrouki and Kongoni took another line. +We looked carefully for signs, but found none fresher than the month +before. Plenty of other game made the country interesting; but we were +after a shy and valuable prize, so dared not shoot lesser things. At +last, at the end of the week, Mavrouki came in with a tale of eight +lions seen in the low scrub across the stream. The kudu business was +about finished, as far as this place went, so we decided to take a look +for the lions. + +We ate by lantern and at the first light were ready to start. But at +that moment, across the slope of the rim a few hundred yards away, +appeared a small group of sing-sing. These are a beautiful big beast, +with widespread horns, proud and wonderful, like Landseer's stags, and +I wanted one of them very much. So I took the Springfield, and dropped +behind the line of some bushes. The stalk was of the ordinary sort. +One has to remain behind cover, to keep down wind, to make no quick +movements. Sometimes this takes considerable manoeuvring; especially, as +now, in the case of a small band fairly well scattered out for feeding. +Often after one has succeeded in placing them all safely behind the +scattered cover, a straggler will step out into view. Then the hunter +must stop short, must slowly, oh very, very slowly, sink down out of +sight; so slowly, in fact, that he must not seem to move, but rather to +melt imperceptibly away. Then he must take up his progress at a lower +plane of elevation. Perhaps he needs merely to stoop; or he may crawl +on hands and knees; or he may lie flat and hitch himself forward by his +toes, pushing his gun ahead. If one of the beasts suddenly looks +very intently in his direction, he must freeze into no matter what +uncomfortable position, and so remain an indefinite time. Even a +hotel-bred child to whom you have rashly made advances stares no longer +nor more intently than a buck that cannot make you out. + +I had no great difficulty with this lot, but slipped up quite +successfully to within one hundred and fifty yards. There I raised my +head behind a little bush to look. Three does grazed nearest me, their +coats rough against the chill of early morning. Up the slope were two +more does and two funny, fuzzy babies. An immature buck occupied the +extreme left with three young ladies. But the big buck, the leader, the +boss of the lot, I could not see anywhere. Of course he must be about, +and I craned my neck cautiously here and there trying to make him out. + +Suddenly, with one accord, all turned and began to trot rapidly away to +the right, their heads high. In the strange manner of animals, they had +received telepathic alarm, and had instantly obeyed. Then beyond and +far to the right I at last saw the beast I had been looking for. The old +villain had been watching me all the time! + +The little herd in single file made their way rapidly along the face +of the rise. They were headed in the direction of the stream. Now, I +happened to know that at this point the stream-canyon was bordered by +sheer cliffs. Therefore, the sing-sing must round the hill, and not +cross the stream. By running to the top of the hill I might catch a +glimpse of them somewhere below. So I started on a jog trot, trying to +hit the golden mean of speed that would still leave me breath to shoot. +This was an affair of some nicety in the tall grass. Just before I +reached the actual slope, however, I revised my schedule. The reason was +supplied by a rhino that came grunting to his feet about seventy yards +away. He had not seen me, and he had not smelled me, but the general +disturbance of all these events had broken into his early morning nap. +He looked to me like a person who is cross before breakfast, so I ducked +low and ran around him. The last I saw of him he was still standing +there, quite disgruntled, and evidently intending to write to the +directors about it. + +Arriving at the top, I looked eagerly down. The cliff fell away at an +impossible angle, but sheer below ran out a narrow bench fifty yards +wide. Around the point of the hill to my right-where the herd had gone-a +game trail dropped steeply to this bench. I arrived just in time to see +the sing-sing, still trotting, file across the bench and over its edge, +on some other invisible game trail, to continue their descent of the +cliff. The big buck brought up the rear. At the very edge he came to a +halt, and looked back, throwing his head up and his nose out so that the +heavy fur on his neck stood forward like a ruff. It was a last glimpse +of him, so I held my little best, and pulled trigger. + +This happened to be one of those shots I spoke of-which the perpetrator +accepts with a thankful and humble spirit. The sing-sing leaped high in +the air and plunged over the edge of the bench. I signalled the camp-in +plain sight-to come and get the head and meat, and sat down to wait. And +while waiting, I looked out on a scene that has since been to me one of +my four symbolizations of Africa. + +The morning was dull, with gray clouds through which at wide intervals +streamed broad bands of misty light. Below me the cliff fell away clear +to a gorge in the depths of which flowed a river. Then the land began +to rise, broken, sharp, tumbled, terrible, tier after tier, gorge +after gorge, one twisted range after the other, across a breathlessly +immeasurable distance. The prospect was full of shadows thrown by the +tumult of lava. In those shadows one imagined stranger abysses. Far down +to the right a long narrow lake inaugurated a flatter, alkali-whitened +country of low cliffs in long straight lines. Across the distances +proper to a dozen horizons the tumbled chaos heaved and fell. The eye +sought rest at the bounds usual to its accustomed world-and went on. +There was no roundness to the earth, no grateful curve to drop this +great fierce country beyond a healing horizon out of sight. The +immensity of primal space was in it, and the simplicity of primal +things-rough, unfinished, full of mystery. There was no colour. The +scene was done in slate gray, darkening to the opaque where a tiny +distant rain squall started; lightening in the nearer shadows to reveal +half-guessed peaks; brightening unexpectedly into broad short bands +of misty gray light slanting from the gray heavens above to the sombre +tortured immensity beneath. It was such a thing as Gustave Dore might +have imaged to serve as an abiding place for the fierce chaotic spirit +of the African wilderness. + +I sat there for some time hugging my knees, waiting for the men to come. +The tremendous landscape seemed to have been willed to immobility. The +rain squalls forty miles or more away did not appear to shift their +shadows; the rare slanting bands of light from the clouds were as +constant as though they were falling through cathedral windows. But +nearer at hand other things were forward. The birds, thousands of them, +were doing their best to cheer things up. The roucoulements of doves +rose from the bushes down the face of the cliffs; the bell bird uttered +his clear ringing note; the chime bird gave his celebrated imitation of +a really gentlemanly sixty-horse power touring car hinting you out of +the way with the mellowness of a chimed horn; the bottle bird poured +gallons of guggling essence of happiness from his silver jug. From +the direction of camp, evidently jumped by the boys, a steinbuck loped +gracefully, pausing every few minutes to look back, his dainty legs +tense, his sensitive ears pointed toward the direction of disturbance. + +And now, along the face of the cliff, I make out the flashing of much +movement, half glimpsed through the bushes. Soon a fine old-man baboon, +his tail arched after the dandified fashion of the baboon aristocracy +stepped out, looked around, and bounded forward. Other old men followed +him, and then the young men, and a miscellaneous lot of half-grown +youngsters. The ladies brought up the rear, with the babies. These rode +their mothers' backs, clinging desperately while they leaped along, for +all the world like the pathetic monkey “jockeys” one sees strapped to +the backs of big dogs in circuses. When they had approached to within +fifty yards, remarked “hullo!” to them. Instantly they all stopped. +Those in front stood up on their hind legs; those behind clambered to +points of vantage on rocks and the tops of small bushes: They all took +a good long look at me. Then they told me what they thought about me +personally, the fact of my being there, and the rude way I had startled +them. Their remarks were neither complimentary nor refined. The old +men, in especial, got quite profane, and screamed excited billingsgate. +Finally they all stopped at once, dropped on all fours, and loped away, +their ridiculous long tails curved in a half arc. Then for the first +time I noticed that, under cover of the insults, the women and children +had silently retired. Once more I was left to the familiar gentle bird +calls, and the vast silence of the wilderness beyond. + +The second picture, also, was a view from a height, but of a totally +different character. It was also, perhaps, more typical of a greater +part of East Equatorial Africa. Four of us were hunting lions with +natives-both wild and tame-and a scratch pack of dogs. More of that +later. We had rummaged around all the morning without any results; and +now at noon had climbed to the top of a butte to eat lunch and look +abroad. + +Our butte ran up a gentle but accelerating slope to a peak of big +rounded rocks and slabs sticking out boldly from the soil of the hill. +We made ourselves comfortable each after his fashion. The gunbearers +leaned against rocks and rolled cigarettes. The savages squatted on +their heels, planting their spears ceremonially in front of them. One +of my friends lay on his back, resting a huge telescope over his crossed +feet. With this he purposed seeing any lion that moved within ten miles. +None of the rest of us could ever make out anything through the fearsome +weapon. Therefore, relieved from responsibility by the presence of this +Dreadnaught of a 'scope, we loafed and looked about us. This is what we +saw: + +Mountains at our backs, of course-at some distance; then plains in long +low swells like the easy rise and fall of a tropical sea, wave after +wave, and over the edge of the world beyond a distant horizon. Here and +there on this plain, single hills lay becalmed, like ships at sea; some +peaked, some cliffed like buttes, some long and low like the hulls of +battleships. The brown plain flowed up to wash their bases, liquid as +the sea itself, its tides rising in the coves of the hills, and ebbing +in the valleys between. Near at hand, in the middle distance, far away, +these fleets of the plain sailed, until at last hull-down over the +horizon their topmasts disappeared. Above them sailed too the phantom +fleet of the clouds, shot with light, shining like silver, airy as +racing yachts, yet casting here and there exaggerated shadows below. + +The sky in Africa is always very wide, greater than any other skies. +Between horizon and horizon is more space than any other world contains. +It is as though the cup of heaven had been pressed a little flatter; +so that while the boundaries have widened, the zenith, with its flaming +sun, has come nearer. And yet that is not a constant quantity either. I +have seen one edge of the sky raised straight up a few million miles, as +though some one had stuck poles under its corners, so that the western +heaven did not curve cup-wise over to the horizon at all as it did +everywhere else, but rather formed the proscenium of a gigantic stage. +On this stage they had piled great heaps of saffron yellow clouds, and +struck shafts of yellow light, and filled the spaces with the lurid +portent of a storm-while the twenty thousand foot mountains below, +crouched whipped and insignificant to the earth. + +We sat atop our butte for an hour while H. looked through his 'scope. +After the soft silent immensity of the earth, running away to infinity, +with its low waves, and its scattered fleet of hills, it was with +difficulty that we brought our gaze back to details and to things near +at hand. Directly below us we could make out many different-hued specks. +Looking closely, we could see that those specks were game animals. They +fed here and there in bands of from ten to two hundred, with valleys and +hills between. Within the radius of the eye they moved, nowhere crowded +in big herds, but everywhere present. A band of zebras grazed the side +of one of the earth waves, a group of gazelles walked on the skyline, +a herd of kongoni rested in the hollow between. On the next rise was a +similar grouping; across the valley a new variation. As far as the eye +could strain its powers it could make out more and ever more beasts. I +took up my field glasses, and brought them all to within a sixth of the +distance. After amusing myself for some time in watching them, I swept +the glasses farther on. Still the same animals grazing on the hills and +in the hollows. I continued to look, and to look again, until even +the powerful prismatic glasses failed to show things big enough to +distinguish. At the limit of extreme vision I could still make out game, +and yet more game. And as I took my glasses from my eyes, and realized +how small a portion of this great land-sea I had been able to examine; +as I looked away to the ship-hills hull-down over the horizon, and +realized that over all that extent fed the Game; the ever-new wonder of +Africa for the hundredth time filled my mind-the teeming fecundity of +her bosom. + +“Look here,” said H. without removing his eye from the 'scope, “just +beyond the edge of that shadow to the left of the bushes in the +donga-I've been watching them ten minutes, and I can't make 'em out yet. +They're either hyenas acting mighty queer, or else two lionesses.” + +We snatched our glasses and concentrated on that important detail. + +To catch the third experience you must have journeyed with us across the +“Thirst,” as the natives picturesquely name the waterless tract of two +days and a half. Our very start had been delayed by a breakage of some +Dutch-sounding essential to our ox wagon, caused by the confusion of a +night attack by lions: almost every night we had lain awake as long as +we could to enjoy the deep-breathed grumbling or the vibrating roars of +these beasts. Now at last, having pushed through the dry country to +the river in the great plain, we were able to take breath from our mad +hurry, and to give our attention to affairs beyond the limits of mere +expediency. One of these was getting Billy a shot at a lion. + +Billy had never before wanted to shoot anything except a python. Why a +python we could not quite fathom. Personally, I think she had some vague +idea of getting even for that Garden of Eden affair. But lately, pythons +proving scarcer than in that favoured locality, she had switched to a +lion. She wanted, she said, to give the skin to her sister. In vain +we pointed out that a zebra hide was very decorative, that lions go to +absurd lengths in retaining possession of their own skins, and other +equally convincing facts. It must be a lion or nothing; so naturally we +had to make a try. + +There are several ways of getting lions, only one of which is at all +likely to afford a steady pot shot to a very small person trying to +manipulate an over-size gun. That is to lay out a kill. The idea is to +catch the lion at it in the early morning before he has departed for +home. The best kill is a zebra: first, because lions like zebra; second, +because zebra are fairly large; third, because zebra are very numerous. + +Accordingly, after we had pitched camp just within a fringe of mimosa +trees and of red-flowering aloes near the river; had eaten lunch, smoked +a pipe and issued necessary orders to the men, C. and I set about the +serious work of getting an appropriate bait in an appropriate place. + +The plains stretched straight away from the river bank to some +indefinite and unknown distance to the south. A low range of mountains +lay blue to the left; and a mantle of scrub thornbush closed the view to +the right. This did not imply that we could see far straight ahead, for +the surface of the plain rose slowly to the top of a swell about two +miles away. Beyond it reared a single butte peak at four or five times +that distance. + +We stepped from the fringe of red aloes and squinted through the dancing +heat shimmer. Near the limit of vision showed a very faint glimmering +whitish streak. A newcomer to Africa would not have looked at it twice: +nevertheless, it could be nothing but zebra. These gaudily marked beasts +take queer aspects even on an open plain. Most often they show pure +white; sometimes a jet black; only when within a few hundred yards does +one distinguish the stripes. Almost always they are very easily made +out. Only when very distant and in heat shimmer, or in certain half +lights of evening, does their so-called “protective colouration” seem to +be in working order, and even then they are always quite visible to the +least expert hunter's scrutiny. + +It is not difficult to kill a zebra, though sometimes it has to be done +at a fairly long range. If all you want is meat for the porters, the +matter is simple enough. But when you require bait for a lion, that; is +another affair entirely. In the first place, you must be able to stalk +within a hundred yards of your kill without being seen; in the second +place, you must provide two or three good lying-down places for your +prospective trophy within fifteen yards of the carcass-and no more than +two or three; in the third place, you must judge the direction of the +probable morning wind, and must be able to approach from leeward. It is +evidently pretty good luck to find an accommodating zebra in just such +a spot. It is a matter of still greater nicety to drop him absolutely in +his tracks. In a case of porters' meat it does not make any particular +difference if he runs a hundred yards before he dies. With lion bait +even fifty yards makes all the difference in the world. + +C. and I talked it over and resolved to press Scallywattamus into +service. Scallywattamus is a small white mule who is firmly convinced +that each and every bush in Africa conceals a mule-eating rhinoceros, +and who does not intend to be one of the number so eaten. But we had +noticed that at times zebra would be so struck with the strange sight of +Scallywattamus carrying a man, that they would let us get quite close. +C. was to ride Scallywattamus while I trudged along under his lee ready +to shoot. + +We set out through the heat shimmer, gradually rising as the plain +slanted. Imperceptibly the camp and the trees marking the river's course +fell below us and into the heat haze. In the distance, close to the +stream, we made out a blurred, brown-red solid mass which we knew for +Masai cattle. Various little Thompson's gazelles skipped away to the +left waggling their tails vigorously and continuously as Nature long +since commanded “Tommies” to do. The heat haze steadied around the dim +white line, so we could make out the individual animals. There were +plenty of them, dozing in the sun. A single tiny treelet broke the plain +just at the skyline of the rise. C. and I talked low-voiced as we went +along. We agreed that the tree was an excellent landmark to come to, +that the little rise afforded proper cover, and that in the morning the +wind would in all likelihood blow toward the river. There were perhaps +twenty zebra near enough to the chosen spot. Any of them would do. + +But the zebra did not give a hoot for Scallywattamus. At five hundred +yards three or four of them awoke with a start, stared at us a minute, +and moved slowly away. They told all the zebra they happened upon that +the three idiots approaching were at once uninteresting and dangerous. +At four hundred and fifty yards a half dozen more made off at a trot. At +three hundred and fifty yards the rest plunged away at a canter-all +but one. He remained to stare, but his tail was up, and we knew he +only stayed because he knew he could easily catch up in the next twenty +seconds. + +The chance was very slim of delivering a knockout at that distance, but +we badly needed meat, anyway, after our march through the Thirst, so I +tried him. We heard the well-known plunk of the bullet, but down went +his head, up went his heels, and away went he. We watched him in vast +disgust. He cavorted out into a bare open space without cover of any +sort, and then flopped over. I thought I caught a fleeting grin of +delight on Mavrouki's face; but he knew enough instantly to conceal his +satisfaction over sure meat. + +There were now no zebra anywhere near; but since nobody ever thinks +of omitting any chances in Africa, I sneaked up to the tree and took +a perfunctory look. There stood another, providentially absent-minded, +zebra! + +We got that one. Everybody was now happy. The boys raced over to the +first kill, which soon took its dismembered way toward camp. C. and I +carefully organized our plan of campaign. We fixed in our memories the +exact location of each and every bush; we determined compass direction +from camp, and any other bearings likely to prove useful in finding so +small a spot in the dark. Then we left a boy to keep carrion birds off +until sunset; and returned home. + +We were out in the morning before even the first sign of dawn. Billy +rode her little mule, C. and I went afoot, Memba Sasa accompanied us +because he could see whole lions where even C.'s trained eye could not +make out an ear, and the syce went along to take care of the mule. The +heavens were ablaze with the thronging stars of the tropics, so we found +we could make out the skyline of the distant butte over the rise of the +plains. The earth itself was a pool of absolute blackness. We could not +see where we were placing our feet, and we were continually bringing up +suddenly to walk around an unexpected aloe or thornbush. The night +was quite still, but every once in a while from the blackness came +rustlings, scamperings, low calls, and once or twice the startled +barking of zebra very near at hand. The latter sounded as ridiculous as +ever. It is one of the many incongruities of African life that Nature +should have given so large and so impressive a creature the petulant +yapping of an exasperated Pomeranian lap dog. At the end of three +quarters of an hour of more or less stumbling progress, we made out +against the sky the twisted treelet that served as our landmark. Billy +dismounted, turned the mule over to the syce, and we crept slowly +forward until within a guessed two or three hundred yards of our kill. + +Nothing remained now but to wait for the daylight. It had already begun +to show. Over behind the distant mountains some one was kindling the +fires, and the stars were flickering out. The splendid ferocity of the +African sunrise was at hand. Long bands of slate dark clouds lay close +along the horizon, and behind them glowed a heart of fire, as on a small +scale the lamplight glows through a metal-worked shade. On either side +the sky was pale green-blue, translucent and pure, deep as infinity +itself. The earth was still black, and the top of the rise near at hand +was clear edged. On that edge, and by a strange chance accurately in +the centre of illumination, stood the uncouth massive form of a shaggy +wildebeeste, his head raised, staring to the east. He did not move; +nothing of that fire and black world moved; only instant by instant it +changed, swelling in glory toward some climax until one expected at any +moment a fanfare of trumpets, the burst of triumphant culmination. + +Then very far down in the distance a lion roared. The wildebeeste, +without moving, bellowed back an answer or a defiance. Down in the +hollow an ostrich boomed. Zebra barked, and several birds chirped +strongly. The tension was breaking not in the expected fanfare and burst +of triumphal music, but in a manner instantly felt to be more fitting +to what was indeed a wonder, but a daily wonder for all that. At one and +the same instant the rim of the sun appeared and the wildebeeste, after +the sudden habit of his kind, made up his mind to go. He dropped his +head and came thundering down past us at full speed. Straight to the +west he headed, and so disappeared. We could hear the beat of his hoofs +dying into the distance. He had gone like a Warder of the Morning whose +task was finished. On the knife-edged skyline appeared the silhouette of +slim-legged little Tommies, flirting their rails, sniffing at the +dewy grass, dainty, slender, confiding, the open-day antithesis of the +tremendous and awesome lord of the darkness that had roared its way to +its lair, and to the massive shaggy herald of morning that had thundered +down to the west. + + + + +III. THE CENTRAL PLATEAU + +Now is required a special quality of the imagination, not in myself, but +in my readers, for it becomes necessary for them to grasp the logic of +a whole country in one mental effort. The difficulties to me are very +real. If I am to tell you it all in detail, your mind becomes confused +to the point of mingling the ingredients of the description. The +resultant mental picture is a composite; it mixes localities wide +apart; it comes out, like the snake-creeper-swamp-forest thing of +grammar-school South America, an unreal and deceitful impression. If, +on the other hand, I try to give you a bird's-eye view-saying, here +is plain, and there follows upland, and yonder succeed mountains and +hills-you lose the sense of breadth and space and the toil of many +days. The feeling of onward outward extending distance is gone; and that +impression so indispensable to finite understanding-“here am I, and what +is beyond is to be measured by the length of my legs and the toil of +my days.” You will not stop long enough on my plains to realize their +physical extent nor their influence on the human soul. If I mention them +in a sentence, you dismiss them in a thought. And that is something the +plains themselves refuse to permit you to do. Yet sometimes one must +become a guide-book, and bespeak his reader's imagination. + +The country, then, wherein we travelled begins at the sea. Along the +coast stretches a low rolling country of steaming tropics, grown with +cocoanuts, bananas, mangoes, and populated by a happy, half-naked race +of the Swahilis. Leaving the coast, the country rises through hills. +These hills are at first fertile and green and wooded. Later they turn +into an almost unbroken plateau of thorn scrub, cruel, monotonous, +almost impenetrable. Fix thorn scrub in your mind, with rhino trails, +and occasional openings for game, and a few rivers flowing through palms +and narrow jungle strips; fix it in your mind until your mind is filled +with it, until you are convinced that nothing else can exist in the +world but more and more of the monotonous, terrible, dry, onstretching +desert of thorn. + +Then pass through this to the top of the hills inland, and journey over +these hills to the highland plains. + +Now sense and appreciate these wide seas of and the hills and ranges +of mountains rising from them, and their infinite diversity of +country-their rivers marked by ribbons of jungle, their scattered-bush +and their thick-bush areas, their grass expanses, and their great +distances extending far over exceedingly wide horizons. Realize how many +weary hours you must travel to gain the nearest butte, what days of toil +the view from its top will disclose. Savour the fact that you can spend +months in its veriest corner without exhausting its possibilities. Then, +and not until then, raise your eyes to the low rising transverse range +that bands it to the west as the thorn desert bands it to the east. + +And on these ranges are the forests, the great bewildering forests. +In what looks like a grove lying athwart a little hill you can lose +yourself for days. Here dwell millions of savages in an apparently +untouched wilderness. Here rises a snow mountain on the equator. Here +are tangles and labyrinths, great bamboo forests lost in folds of the +mightiest hills. Here are the elephants. Here are the swinging vines, +the jungle itself. + +Yet finally it breaks. We come out on the edge of things and look down +on a great gash in the earth. It is like a sunken kingdom in itself, +miles wide, with its own mountain ranges, its own rivers, its own +landscape features. Only on either side of it rise the escarpments which +are the true level of the plateau. One can spend two months in this +valley, too, and in the countries south to which it leads. And on its +farther side are the high plateau plains again, or the forests, or the +desert, or the great lakes that lie at the source of the Nile. + +So now, perhaps, we are a little prepared to go ahead. The guide-book +work is finished for good and all. There is the steaming hot low coast +belt, and the hot dry thorn desert belt, and the varied immense plains, +and the high mountain belt of the forests, and again the variegated wide +country of the Rift Valley and the high plateau. To attempt to tell +you seriatim and in detail just what they are like is the task of an +encyclopaedist. Perhaps more indirectly you may be able to fill in the +picture of the country, the people, and the beasts. + + + + + +IV. THE FIRST CAMP + +Our very first start into the new country was made when we piled out +from the little train standing patiently awaiting the good pleasure +of our descent. That feature strikes me with ever new wonder-the +accommodating way trains of the Uganda Railway have of waiting for you. +One day, at a little wayside station, C. and I were idly exchanging +remarks with the only white man in sight, killing time until the engine +should whistle to a resumption of the journey. The guard lingered about +just out of earshot. At the end of five minutes C. happened to catch his +eye, whereupon he ventured to approach. + +“When you have finished your conversation,” said he politely, “we are +all ready to go on.” + +On the morning in question there were a lot of us to disembark-one +hundred and twenty-two, to be exact-of which four were white. We were +not yet acquainted with our men, nor yet with our stores, nor with the +methods of our travel. The train went off and left us in the middle of +a high plateau, with low ridges running across it, and mountains in the +distance. Men were squabbling earnestly for the most convenient loads to +carry, and as fast as they had gained undisputed possession, they marked +the loads with some private sign of their own. M'ganga, the headman, +tall, fierce, big-framed and bony, clad in fez, a long black overcoat, +blue puttees and boots, stood stiff as a ramrod, extended a rigid right +arm and rattled off orders in a high dynamic voice. In his left hand he +clasped a bulgy umbrella, the badge of his dignity and the symbol of his +authority. The four askaris, big men too, with masterful high-cheekboned +countenances, rushed here and there seeing that the orders were carried +out. Expostulations, laughter, the sound of quarrelling rose and fell. +Never could the combined volume of it all override the firecracker +stream of M'ganga's eloquence. + +We had nothing to do with it all, but stood a little dazed, staring at +the novel scene. Our men were of many tribes, each with its own cast +of features, its own notions of what befitted man's performance of his +duties here below. They stuck together each in its clan. A fine free +individualism of personal adornment characterized them. Every man +dressed for his own satisfaction solely. They hung all sorts of things +in the distended lobes of their ears. One had succeeded in inserting a +fine big glittering tobacco tin. Others had invented elaborate topiary +designs in their hair, shaving their heads so as to leave strange tufts, +patches, crescents on the most unexpected places. Of the intricacy of +these designs they seemed absurdly proud. Various sorts of treasure +trove hung from them-a bunch of keys to which there were no locks, +discarded hunting knives, tips of antelope horns, discharged brass +cartridges, a hundred and one valueless trifles plucked proudly from +the rubbish heap. They were all clothed. We had supplied each with a +red blanket, a blue jersey, and a water bottle. The blankets they were +twisting most ingeniously into turbans. Beside these they sported a +great variety of garments. Shooting coats that had seen better days, a +dozen shabby overcoats-worn proudly through the hottest noons-raggety +breeches and trousers made by some London tailor, queer baggy homemades +of the same persuasion, or quite simply the square of cotton cloth +arranged somewhat like a short tight skirt, or nothing at all as the +man's taste ran. They were many of them amusing enough; but somehow they +did not look entirely farcical and ridiculous, like our negroes +putting on airs. All these things were worn with a simplicity of quiet +confidence in their entire fitness. And beneath the red blanket turbans +the half-wild savage faces peered out. + +Now Mahomet approached. Mahomet was my personal boy. He was a Somali +from the Northwest coast, dusky brown, with the regular clear-cut +features of a Greek marble god. His dress was of neat khaki, and he +looked down on savages; but, also, as with all the dark-skinned races, +up to his white master. Mahomet was with me during all my African stay, +and tested out nobly. As yet, of course, I did not know him. + +“Chakula taiari,” said he. + +That is Swahili. It means literally “food is ready.” After one has +hunted in Africa for a few months, it means also “paradise is opened,” + “grief is at an end,” “joy and thanksgiving are now in order,” and +similar affairs. Those two words are never forgotten, and the veriest +beginner in Swahili can recognize them without the slightest effort. + +We followed Mahomet. Somehow, without orders, in all this confusion, the +personal staff had been quietly and efficiently busy. Drawn a little to +one side stood a table with four chairs. The table was covered with a +white cloth, and was set with a beautiful white enamel service. We +took our places. Behind each chair straight as a ramrod stood a neat +khaki-clad boy. They brought us food, and presented it properly on the +left side, waiting like well-trained butlers. We might have been in +a London restaurant. As three of us were Americans, we felt a trifle +dazed. The porters, having finished the distribution of their loads, +squatted on their heels and watched us respectfully. + +And then, not two hundred yards away, four ostriches paced slowly across +the track, paying not the slightest attention to us-our first real +wild ostriches, scornful of oranges, careless of tourists, and rightful +guardians of their own snowy plumes. The passage of these four solemn +birds seemed somehow to lend this strange open-air meal an exotic +flavour. We were indeed in Africa; and the ostriches helped us to +realize it. + +We finished breakfast and arose from our chairs. Instantly a half dozen +men sprang forward. Before our amazed eyes the table service, the chairs +and the table itself disappeared into neat packages. M'ganga arose to +his feet. + +“Bandika!” he cried. + +The askaris rushed here and there actively. + +“Bandika! bandika! bandika!” they cried repeatedly. + +The men sprang into activity. A struggle heaved the varicoloured +multitude-and, lo! each man stood upright, his load balanced on his +head. At the same moment the syces led up our horses, mounted and headed +across the little plain whence had come the four ostriches. Our African +journey had definitely begun. + +Behind us, all abreast marched the four gunbearers; then the four syces; +then the safari single file, an askari at the head bearing proudly his +ancient musket and our banner, other askaris flanking, M'ganga bringing +up the rear with his mighty umbrella and an unsuspected rhinoceros-hide +whip. The tent boys and the cook scattered along the flank anywhere, as +befitted the free and independent who had nothing to do with the serious +business of marching. A measured sound of drumming followed the beating +of loads with a hundred sticks; a wild, weird chanting burst from the +ranks and died down again as one or another individual or group felt +moved to song. One lot had a formal chant and response. Their leader, in +a high falsetto, said something like, + +“Kuna koma kuno,” + +and all his tribesmen would follow with a single word in a deep gruff +tone, + +“Za-la-nee!” + +All of which undoubtedly helped immensely. + +The country was a bully country, but somehow it did not look like +Africa. That is to say, it looked altogether too much like any amount +of country at home. There was nothing strange and exotic about it. We +crossed a little plain, and up over a small hill, down into a shallow +canyon that seemed to be wooded with live oaks, across a grass valley +or so, and around a grass hill. Then we went into camp at the edge of +another grass valley, by a stream across which rose some ordinary low +cliffs. + +That is the disconcerting thing about a whole lot of this country-it +is so much like home. Of course, there are many wide districts exotic +enough in all conscience-the jungle beds of the rivers, the bamboo +forests, the great tangled forests themselves, the banana groves down +the aisles of which dance savages with shields-but so very much of it is +familiar. One needs only church spires and a red-roofed village or so +to imagine one's self in Surrey. There is any amount of country +like Arizona, and more like the uplands of Wyoming, and a lot of it +resembling the smaller landscapes of New England. The prospects of the +whole world are there, so that somewhere every wanderer can find the +countryside of his own home repeated. And, by the same token, that is +exactly what makes a good deal of it so startling. When a man sees a +file of spear-armed savages, or a pair of snorty old rhinos, step out +into what has seemed practically his own back yard home, he is even more +startled than if he had encountered them in quite strange surroundings. + +We rode into the grass meadow and picked camp site. The men trailed in +and dumped down their loads in a row. + +At a signal they set to work. A dozen to each tent got them up in a +jiffy. A long file brought firewood from the stream bed. Others carried +water, stones for the cook, a dozen other matters. The tent boys rescued +our boxes; they put together the cots and made the beds, even before the +tents were raised from the ground. Within an incredibly short space of +time the three green tents were up and arranged, each with its bed made, +its mosquito bar hung, its personal box open, its folding washstand +ready with towels and soap, the table and chairs unlimbered. At a +discreet distance flickered the cook campfire, and at a still discreeter +distance the little tents of the men gleamed pure white against the +green of the high grass. + + + + + +V. MEMBA SASA + +I wish I could plunge you at once into the excitements of big game in +Africa, but I cannot truthfully do so. To be sure, we went hunting that +afternoon, up over the low cliffs, and we saw several of a very lively +little animal known as the Chandler's reedbuck. This was not supposed to +be a game country, and that was all we did see. At these we shot several +times-disgracefully. In fact, for several days we could not shoot +at all, at any range, nor at anything. It was very sad, and very +aggravating. Afterward we found that this is an invariable experience to +the newcomer. The light is new, the air is different, the sizes of the +game are deceiving. Nobody can at first hit anything. At the end of five +days we suddenly began to shoot our normal gait. Why, I do not know. + +But in this afternoon tramp around the low cliffs after the elusive +reedbuck, I for the first time became acquainted with a man who +developed into a real friend. + +His name is Memba Sasa. Memba Sasa are two Swahili words meaning “now a +crocodile.” Subsequently, after I had learned to talk Swahili, I tried +to find out what he was formerly, before he was a crocodile, but did not +succeed. + +He was of the tribe of the Monumwezi, of medium height, compactly +and sturdily built, carried himself very erect, and moved with a +concentrated and vigorous purposefulness. His countenance might be +described as pleasing but not handsome, of a dark chocolate brown, with +the broad nose of the negro, but with a firm mouth, high cheekbones, and +a frowning intentness of brow that was very fine. When you talked to +him he looked you straight in the eye. His own eyes were shaded by +long, soft, curling lashes behind which they looked steadily and +gravely-sometimes fiercely-on the world. He rarely smiled-never merely +in understanding or for politeness' sake-and never laughed unless there +was something really amusing. Then he chuckled from deep in his chest, +the most contagious laughter you can imagine. Often we, at the other end +of the camp, have laughed in sympathy, just at the sound of that deep +and hearty ho! ho! ho! of Memba Sasa. Even at something genuinely +amusing he never laughed much, nor without a very definite restraint. In +fact, about him was no slackness, no sprawling abandon of the native +in relaxation; but always a taut efficiency and a never-failing +self-respect. + +Naturally, behind such a fixed moral fibre must always be some moral +idea. When a man lives up to a real, not a pompous, dignity some ideal +must inform it. Memba Sasa's ideal was that of the Hunter. + +He was a gunbearer; and he considered that a good gunbearer stood quite +a few notches above any other human being, save always the white man, +of course. And even among the latter Memba Sasa made great differences. +These differences he kept to himself, and treated all with equal +respect. Nevertheless, they existed, and Memba Sasa very well knew that +fact. In the white world were two classes of masters: those who hunted +well, and those who were considered by them as their friends and equals. +Why they should be so considered Memba Sasa did not know, but he trusted +the Hunter's judgment. These were the bwanas, or masters. All the rest +were merely mazungos, or, “white men.” To their faces he called them +bwana, but in his heart he considered them not. + +Observe, I say those who hunted well. Memba Sasa, in his profession as +gunbearer, had to accompany those who hunted badly. In them he took +no pride; from them he held aloof in spirit; but for them he did his +conscientious best, upheld by the dignity of his profession. + +For to Mamba Sasa that profession was the proudest to which a black +man could aspire. He prided himself on mastering its every detail, in +accomplishing its every duty minutely and exactly. The major virtues of +a gunbearer are not to be despised by anybody; for they comprise great +physical courage, endurance, and loyalty: the accomplishments of a +gunbearer are worthy of a man's best faculties, for they include the +ability to see and track game, to take and prepare properly any sort of +a trophy, field taxidermy, butchering game meat, wood and plainscraft, +the knowledge of how properly to care for firearms in all sorts of +circumstances, and a half hundred other like minutiae. Memba Sasa knew +these things, and he performed them with the artist's love for details; +and his keen eyes were always spying for new ways. + +At a certain time I shot an egret, and prepared to take the skin. Memba +Sasa asked if he might watch me do it. Two months later, having killed +a really gaudy peacocklike member of the guinea fowl tribe, I handed +it over to him with instructions to take off the breast feathers before +giving it to the cook. In a half hour he brought me the complete skin, +I examined it carefully, and found it to be well done in every respect. +Now in skinning a bird there are a number of delicate and unusual +operations, such as stripping the primary quills from the bone, cutting +the ear cover, and the like. I had explained none of them; and yet Memba +Sasa, unassisted, had grasped their method from a single demonstration +and had remembered them all two months later! C. had a trick in making +the second skin incision of a trophy head that had the effect of giving +a better purchase to the knife. Its exact description would be out of +place here, but it actually consisted merely in inserting the point of +the knife two inches away from the place it is ordinarily inserted. One +day we noticed that Memba Sasa was making his incisions in that manner. +I went to Africa fully determined to care for my own rifle. The modern +high-velocity gun needs rather especial treatment; mere wiping out will +not do. I found that Memba Sasa already knew all about boiling water, +and the necessity for having it really boiling, about subsequent metal +sweating, and all the rest. After watching him at work I concluded, +rightly, that he would do a lot better job than I. + +To the new employer Memba Sasa maintained an attitude of strict +professional loyalty. His personal respect was upheld by the necessity +of every man to do his job in the world. Memba Sasa did his. He cleaned +the rifles; he saw that everything was in order for the day's march; he +was at my elbow all ways with more cartridges and the spare rifle; he +trailed and looked conscientiously. In his attitude was the stolidity +of the wooden Indian. No action of mine, no joke on the part of his +companions, no circumstance in the varying fortunes of the field gained +from him the faintest flicker of either approval, disapproval, or +interest. When we returned to camp he deposited my water bottle +and camera, seized the cleaning implements, and departed to his own +campfire. In the field he pointed out game that I did not see, and +waited imperturbably the result of my shot. + +As I before stated, the result of that shot for the first five days was +very apt to be nil. This, at the time, puzzled and grieved me a lot. +Occasionally I looked at Memba Sasa to catch some sign of sympathy, +disgust, contempt, or-rarely-triumph at a lucky shot. Nothing. He gently +but firmly took away my rifle, reloaded it, and handed it back; then +waited respectfully for my next move. He knew no English, and I no +Swahili. + +But as time went on this attitude changed. I was armed with the new +Springfield rifle, a weapon with 2,700 feet velocity, and with a +marvellously flat trajectory. This commanding advantage, combined with +a very long familiarity with firearms, enabled me to do some fairish +shooting, after the strangeness of these new conditions had been +mastered. Memba Sasa began to take a dawning interest in me as a +possible source of pride. We began to develop between us a means of +communication. I set myself deliberately to learn his language, and +after he had cautiously determined that I really meant it, he took the +greatest pains-always gravely-to teach me. A more human feeling sprang +up between us. + +But we had still the final test to undergo-that of danger and the tight +corner. + +In close quarters the gunbearer has the hardest job in the world. I have +the most profound respect for his absolute courage. Even to a man +armed and privileged to shoot and defend himself, a charging lion is an +awesome thing, requiring a certain amount of coolness and resolution to +face effectively. Think of the gunbearer at his elbow, depending not +on himself but on the courage and coolness of another. He cannot do one +solitary thing to defend himself. To bolt for the safety of a tree is +to beg the question completely, to brand himself as a shenzi forever; +to fire a gun in any circumstances is to beg the question also, for +the white man must be able to depend absolutely on his second gun in +an emergency. Those things are outside consideration, even, of any +respectable gunbearer. In addition, he must keep cool. He must see +clearly in the thickest excitement; must be ready unobtrusively to pass +up the second gun in the position most convenient for immediate use, to +seize the other and to perform the finicky task of reloading correctly +while some rampageous beast is raising particular thunder a few yards +away. All this in absolute dependence on the ability of his bwana to +deal with the situation. I can confess very truly that once or twice +that little unobtrusive touch of Memba Sasa crouched close to my elbow +steadied me with the thought of how little right I-with a rifle in +my hand-had to be scared. And the best compliment I ever received I +overheard by chance. I had wounded a lion when out by myself, and +had returned to camp for a heavier rifle and for Memba Sasa to do the +trailing. From my tent I overheard the following conversation between +Memba Sasa and the cook: + +“The grass is high,” said the cook. “Are you not afraid to go after a +wounded lion with only one white man?” + +“My one white man is enough,” replied Memba Sasa. + +It is a quality of courage that I must confess would be quite beyond +me-to depend entirely on the other fellow, and not at all on myself. +This courage is always remarkable to me, even in the case of the +gunbearer who knows all about the man whose heels he follows. But +consider that of the gunbearer's first experience with a stranger. The +former has no idea of how the white man will act; whether he will get +nervous, get actually panicky, lose his shooting ability, and generally +mess things up. Nevertheless, he follows his master in, and he stands +by. If the hunter fails, the gunbearer will probably die. To me it is +rather fine: for he does it, not from the personal affection and loyalty +which will carry men far, but from a sheer sense of duty and pride of +caste. The quiet pride of the really good men, like Memba Sasa, is easy +to understand. + +And the records are full of stories of the white man who has not made +good: of the coward who bolts, leaving his black man to take the brunt +of it, or who sticks but loses his head. Each new employer must be +very closely and interestedly scrutinized. In the light of subsequent +experience, I can no longer wonder at Memba Sasa's first detached and +impersonal attitude. + +As time went on, however, and we grew to know each other better, this +attitude entirely changed. At first the change consisted merely in +dropping the disinterested pose as respects game. For it was a pose. +Memba Sasa was most keenly interested in game whenever it was an object +of pursuit. It did not matter how common the particular species might +be: if we wanted it, Memba Sasa would look upon it with eager ferocity; +and if we did not want it, he paid no attention to it at all. When we +started in the morning, or in the relaxation of our return at night, I +would mention casually a few of the things that might prove acceptable. + +“To-morrow we want kongoni for boys' meat, or zebra; and some meat for +masters-Tommy, impala, oribi,” and Memba Sasa knew as well as I did what +we needed to fill out our trophy collection. When he caught sight of one +of these animals his whole countenance changed. The lines of his face +set, his lips drew back from his teeth, his eyes fairly darted fire in +the fixity of their gaze. He was like a fine pointer dog on birds, or +like the splendid savage he was at heart. + +“M'palla!” he hissed; and then after a second, in a restrained fierce +voice, “Na-ona? Do you see?” + +If I did not see he pointed cautiously. His own eyes never left the +beast. Rarely he stayed put while I made the stalk. More often he glided +like a snake at my heels. If the bullet hit, Memba Sasa always exhaled +a grunt of satisfaction-“hah!”-in which triumph and satisfaction mingled +with a faint derision at the unfortunate beast. In case of a trophy he +squatted anxiously at the animal's head while I took my measurements, +assisting very intelligently with the tape line. When I had finished, he +always looked up at me with wrinkled brow. + +“Footie n'gapi?” he inquired. This means literally, “How many feet?”, +footie being his euphemistic invention of a word for the tape. I would +tell him how many “footie” and how many “inchie” the measurement proved +to be. From the depths of his wonderful memory he would dig up the +measurements of another beast of the same sort I had killed months back, +but which he had remembered accurately from a single hearing. + +The shooting of a beast he always detailed to his few cronies in camp: +the other gunbearers, and one or two from his own tribe. He always used +the first person plural, “we” did so and so; and took an inordinate +pride in making out his bwana as being an altogether superior person to +any of the other gunbearer's bwanas. Over a miss he always looked +sad; but with a dignified sadness as though we had met with undeserved +misfortune sent by malignant gods. If there were any possible +alleviating explanation, Memba Sasa made the most of it, provided our +fiasco was witnessed. If we were alone in our disgrace, he buried the +incident fathoms deep. He took an inordinate pride in our using the +minimum number of cartridges, and would explain to me in a loud tone +of voice that we had cartridges enough in the belt. When we had not +cartridges enough, he would sneak around after dark to get some more. At +times he would even surreptitiously “lift” a few from B.'s gunbearer! + +When in camp, with his “cazi” finished, Memba Sasa did fancy work! The +picture of this powerful half-savage, his fierce brows bent over a tiny +piece of linen, his strong fingers fussing with little stitches, will +always appeal to my sense of the incongruous. Through a piece of linen +he punched holes with a porcupine quill. Then he “buttonhole” stitched +the holes, and embroidered patterns between them with fine white thread. +The result was an openwork pattern heavily encrusted with beautiful fine +embroidery. It was most astounding stuff, such as you would expect from +a French convent, perhaps, but never from an African savage. He did a +circular piece and a long narrow piece. They took him three months to +finish, and then he sewed them together to form a skull cap. Billy, +entranced with the lacelike delicacy of the work, promptly captured it; +whereupon Memba Sasa philosophically started another. + +By this time he had identified himself with my fortunes. We had become +a firm whose business it was to carry out the affairs of a single +personality-me. Memba Sasa, among other things, undertook the dignity. +When I walked through a crowd, Memba Sasa zealously kicked everybody out +of my royal path. When I started to issue a command, Memba Sasa finished +it and amplified it and put a snapper on it. When I came into camp, +Memba Sasa saw to it personally that my tent went up promptly and +properly, although that was really not part of his “cazi” at all. And +when somewhere beyond my ken some miserable boy had committed a crime, I +never remained long in ignorance of that fact. + +Perhaps I happened to be sitting in my folding chair idly smoking a +pipe and reading a book. Across the open places of the camp would stride +Memba Sasa, very erect, very rigid, moving in short indignant jerks, +his eye flashing fire. Behind him would sneak a very hang-dog boy. Memba +Sasa marched straight up to me, faced right, and drew one side, his +silence sparkling with honest indignation. + +“Just look at THAT!” his attitude seemed to say, “Could you believe such +human depravity possible? And against OUR authority?” + +He always stood, quite rigid, waiting for me to speak. + +“Well, Memba Sasa?” I would inquire, after I had enjoyed the show a +little. + +In a few restrained words he put the case before me, always briefly, +always with a scornful dignity. This shenzi has done so-and-so. + +We will suppose the case fairly serious. I listened to the man's story, +if necessary called a few witnesses, delivered judgment. All the while +Memba Sasa stood at rigid attention, fairly bristling virtue, like +the good dog standing by at the punishment of the bad dogs. And in his +attitude was a subtle triumph, as one would say: “You see! Fool with my +bwana, will you! Just let anybody try to get funny with US!” Judgment +pronounced-we have supposed the case serious, you remember-Memba Sasa +himself applied the lash. I think he really enjoyed that; but it was a +restrained joy. The whip descended deliberately, without excitement. + +The man's devotion in unusual circumstances was beyond praise. Danger +or excitement incite a sort of loyalty in any good man; but humdrum, +disagreeable difficulty is a different matter. + +One day we marched over a country of thorn-scrub desert. Since two days +we had been cut loose from water, and had been depending on a small +amount carried in zinc drums. Now our only reasons for faring were a +conical hill, over the horizon, and the knowledge of a river somewhere +beyond. How far beyond, or in what direction, we did not know. We had +thirty men with us, a more or less ragtag lot, picked up anyhow in the +bazaars. They were soft, ill-disciplined and uncertain. For five or six +hours they marched well enough. Then the sun began to get very hot, and +some of them began to straggle. They had, of course, no intention of +deserting, for their only hope of surviving lay in staying with us; but +their loads had become heavy, and they took too many rests. We put a +good man behind, but without much avail. In open country a safari can +be permitted to straggle over miles, for always it can keep in touch by +sight; but in this thorn-scrub desert, that looks all alike, a man fifty +yards out of sight is fifty yards lost. We would march fifteen or twenty +minutes, then sit down to wait until the rearmost men had straggled in, +perhaps a half hour later. And we did not dare move on until the tale of +our thirty was complete. At this rate progress was very slow, and as the +fierce equatorial sun increased in strength, became always slower still. +The situation became alarming. We were quite out of water, and we had no +idea where water was to be found. To complicate matters, the thornbrush +thickened to a jungle. + +My single companion and I consulted. It was agreed that I was to push on +as rapidly as possible to locate the water, while he was to try to hold +the caravan together. Accordingly, Memba Sasa and I marched ahead. We +tried to leave a trail to follow; and we hoped fervently that our guess +as to the stream's course would prove to be a good one. At the end +of two hours and a half we found the water-a beautiful jungle-shaded +stream-and filled ourselves up therewith. Our duty was accomplished, for +we had left a trail to be followed. Nevertheless, I felt I should like +to take back our full canteens to relieve the worst cases. Memba Sasa +would not hear of it, and even while I was talking to him seized the +canteens and disappeared. + +At the end of two hours more camp was made, after a fashion; but still +four men had failed to come in. We built a smudge in the hope of guiding +them; and gave them up. If they had followed our trail, they should have +been in long ago; if they had missed that trail, heaven knows where they +were, or where we should go to find them. Dusk was falling, and, to tell +the truth, we were both very much done up by a long day at 115 degrees +in the shade under an equatorial sun. The missing men would climb trees +away from the beasts, and we would organize a search next day. As we +debated these things, to us came Memba Sasa. + +“I want to take 'Winchi,'” said he. “Winchi” is his name for my +Winchester 405. + +“Why?” we asked. + +“If I can take Winchi, I will find the men,” said he. + +This was entirely voluntary on his part. He, as well as we, had had a +hard day, and he had made a double journey for part of it. We gave him +Winchi and he departed. Sometime after midnight he returned with the +missing men. + +Perhaps a dozen times all told he volunteered for these special +services; once in particular, after a fourteen-hour day, he set off +at nine o'clock at night in a soaking rainstorm, wandered until two +o'clock, and returned unsuccessful, to rouse me and report gravely +that he could not find them. For these services he neither received nor +expected special reward. And catch him doing anything outside his strict +“cazi” except for US. + +We were always very ceremonious and dignified in our relations on such +occasions. Memba Sasa would suddenly appear, deposit the rifle in its +place, and stand at attention. + +“Well, Memba Sasa?” I would inquire. + +“I have found the men; they are in camp.” + +Then I would give him his reward. It was either the word “assanti,” or +the two words “assanti sana,” according to the difficulty and importance +of the task accomplished. They mean simply “thank you” and “thank you +very much.” + +Once or twice, after a particularly long and difficult month or so, when +Memba Sasa has been almost literally my alter ego, I have called him up +for special praise. “I am very pleased with you, Memba Sasa,” said I. +“You have done your cazi well. You are a good man.” + +He accepted this with dignity, without deprecation, and without the +idiocy of spoken gratitude. He agreed perfectly with everything I +said! “Yes” was his only comment. I liked it. + +On our ultimate success in a difficult enterprise Memba Sasa set great +store; and his delight in ultimate success was apparently quite apart +from personal considerations. We had been hunting greater kudu for five +weeks before we finally landed one. The greater kudu is, with the bongo, +easily the prize beast in East Africa, and very few are shot. By a piece +of bad luck, for him, I had sent Memba Sasa out in a different direction +to look for signs the afternoon we finally got one. The kill was made +just at dusk. C. and I, with Mavrouki, built a fire and stayed, while +Kongoni went to camp after men. There he broke the news to Memba Sasa +that the great prize had been captured, and he absent. Memba Sasa was +hugely delighted, nor did he in any way show what must have been a great +disappointment to him. After repeating the news triumphantly to every +one in camp, he came out to where we were waiting, arrived quite out of +breath, and grabbed me by the hand in heartiest congratulation. + +Memba Sasa went in not at all for personal ornamentation, any more than +he allowed his dignity to be broken by anything resembling emotionalism. +No tattoo marks, no ear ornaments, no rings nor bracelets. He never even +picked up an ostrich feather for his head. On the latter he sometimes +wore an old felt hat; sometimes, more picturesquely, an orange-coloured +fillet. Khaki shirt, khaki “shorts,” blue puttees, besides his knife +and my own accoutrements: that was all. In town he was all white clad, a +long fine linen robe reaching to his feet; and one of the lacelike skull +caps he was so very skilful at making. + +That will do for a preliminary sketch. If you follow these pages, you +will hear more of him; he is worth it. + + + + + +VI. THE FIRST GAME CAMP + +In the review of “first” impressions with which we are concerned, we +must now skip a week or ten days to stop at what is known in our diaries +as the First Ford of the Guaso Nyero River. + +These ten days were not uneventful. We had crossed the wide and +undulating plains, had paused at some tall beautiful falls plunging +several hundred feet into the mysteriousness of a dense forest on +which we looked down. There we had enjoyed some duck, goose and snipe +shooting; had made the acquaintance of a few of the Masai, and had +looked with awe on our first hippo tracks in the mud beside a tiny +ditchlike stream. Here and there were small game herds. In the light of +later experience we now realize that these were nothing at all; but at +the time the sight of full-grown wild animals out in plain sight was +quite wonderful. At the close of the day's march we always wandered out +with our rifles to see what we could find. Everything was new to us, +and we had our men to feed. Our shooting gradually improved until we had +overcome the difficulties peculiar to this new country and were doing as +well as we could do anywhere. + +Now, at the end of a hard day through scrub, over rolling bold hills, +and down a scrub brush slope, we had reached the banks of the Guaso +Nyero. + +At this point, above the junction of its principal tributary rivers, +it was a stream about sixty or seventy feet wide, flowing swift between +high banks. A few trees marked its course, but nothing like a jungle. +The ford was in swift water just above a deep still pool suspected +of crocodiles. We found the water about waist deep, stretched a rope +across, and forcibly persuaded our eager boys that one at a time was +about what the situation required. On the other side we made camp on +an open flat. Having marched so far continuously, we resolved to settle +down for a while. The men had been without sufficient meat; and we +desired very much to look over the country closely, and to collect a few +heads as trophies. + +Perhaps a word might not come amiss as to the killing of game. The case +is here quite different from the condition of affairs at home. Here +animal life is most extraordinarily abundant; it furnishes the main food +supply to the traveller; and at present is probably increasing slightly, +certainly holding its own. Whatever toll the sportsman or traveller take +is as nothing compared to what he might take if he were an unscrupulous +game hog. If his cartridges and his shoulder held out, he could easily +kill a hundred animals a day instead of the few he requires. In that +sense, then, no man slaughters indiscriminately. During the course of +a year he probably shoots from two hundred to two hundred and fifty +beasts, provided he is travelling with an ordinary sized caravan. This, +the experts say, is about the annual toll of one lion. If the traveller +gets his lion, he plays even with the fauna of the country; if he +gets two or more lions, he has something to his credit. This probably +explains why the game is still so remarkably abundant near the road and +on the very outskirts of the town. + +We were now much in need of a fair quantity of meat, both for immediate +consumption of our safari, and to make biltong or jerky. Later, in like +circumstances, we should have sallied forth in a businesslike fashion, +dropped the requisite number of zebra and hartebeeste as near camp as +possible, and called it a job. Now, however, being new to the game, we +much desired good trophies in variety. Therefore, we scoured the +country far and wide for desirable heads; and the meat waited upon the +acquisition of the trophy. + +This, then, might be called our first Shooting Camp. Heretofore we had +travelled every day. Now the boys settled down to what the native porter +considers the height of bliss: a permanent camp with plenty to eat. Each +morning we were off before daylight, riding our horses, and followed by +the gunbearers, the syces, and fifteen or twenty porters. The country +rose from the river in a long gentle slope grown with low brush and +scattered candlestick euphorbias. This slope ended in a scattered range +of low rocky buttes. Through any one of the various openings between +them, we rode to find ourselves on the borders of an undulating grass +country of low rounded hills with wide valleys winding between them. In +these valleys and on these hills was the game. + +Daylight of the day I would tell about found us just at the edge of the +little buttes. Down one of the slopes the growing half light revealed +two oryx feeding, magnificent big creatures, with straight rapier horns +three feet in length. These were most exciting and desirable, so off +my horse I got and began to sneak up on them through the low tufts +of grass. They fed quite calmly. I congratulated myself, and slipped +nearer. Without even looking in my direction, they trotted away. +Somewhat chagrined, I returned to my companions, and we rode on. + +Then across a mile-wide valley we saw two dark objects in the tall +grass; and almost immediately identified these as rhinoceroses, the +first we had seen. They stood there side by side, gazing off into space, +doing nothing in a busy morning world. After staring at them through our +glasses for some time, we organized a raid. At the bottom of the valley +we left the horses and porters; lined up, each with his gunbearer at his +elbow; and advanced on the enemy. B. was to have the shot According to +all the books we should have been able, provided we were downwind +and made no noise, to have approached within fifty or sixty yards +undiscovered. However, at a little over a hundred yards they both turned +tail and departed at a swift trot, their heads held well up and their +tails sticking up straight and stiff in the most ridiculous fashion. +No good shooting at them in such circumstances, so we watched them go, +still keeping up their slashing trot, growing smaller and smaller in the +distance until finally they disappeared over the top of a swell. + +We set ourselves methodically to following them. It took us over an hour +of steady plodding before we again came in sight of them. They were this +time nearer the top of a hill, and we saw instantly that the curve of +the slope was such that we could approach within fifty yards before +coming in sight at all. Therefore, once more we dismounted, lined up in +battle array, and advanced. + +Sensations? Distinctly nervous, decidedly alert, and somewhat +self-congratulatory that I was not more scared. No man can predicate how +efficient he is going to be in the presence of really dangerous game. +Only the actual trial will show. This is not a question of courage at +all, but of purely involuntary reaction of the nerves. Very few men are +physical cowards. They will and do face anything. But a great many men +are rendered inefficient by the way their nervous systems act under +stress. It is not a matter for control by will power in the slightest +degree. So the big game hunter must determine by actual trial whether it +so happens that the great excitement of danger renders his hand shaky or +steady. The excitement in either case is the same. No man is ever “cool” + in the sense that personal danger is of the same kind of indifference +to him as clambering aboard a street car. He must always be lifted +above himself, must enter an extra normal condition to meet extra normal +circumstances. He can always control his conduct; but he can by no +means always determine the way the inevitable excitement will affect his +coordinations. And unfortunately, in the final result it does not matter +how brave a man is, but how closely he can hold. If he finds that his +nervous excitement renders him unsteady, he has no business ever to +tackle dangerous game alone. If, on the other hand, he discovers that +IDENTICALLY THE SAME nervous excitement happens to steady his front +sight to rocklike rigidity-a rigidity he could not possibly attain in +normal conditions-then he will probably keep out of trouble. + +To amplify this further by a specific instance: I hunted for a short +time in Africa with a man who was always eager for exciting encounters, +whose pluck was admirable in every way, but whose nervous reaction so +manifested itself that he was utterly unable to do even decent shooting +at any range. Furthermore, his very judgment and power of observation +were so obscured that he could not remember afterward with any accuracy +what had happened-which way the beast was pointing, how many there were +of them, in which direction they went, how many shots were fired, in +short all the smaller details of the affair. He thought he remembered. +After the show was over it was quite amusing to get his version of +the incident. It was almost always so wide of the fact as to be little +recognizable. And, mind you, he was perfectly sincere in his belief, and +absolutely courageous. Only he was quite unfitted by physical make-up +for a big game hunter; and I was relieved when, after a short time, his +route and mine separated. + +Well, we clambered up that slope with a fine compound of tension, +expectation, and latent uneasiness as to just what was going to happen, +anyway. Finally, we raised the backs of the beasts, stooped, sneaked a +little nearer, and finally at a signal stood upright perhaps forty yards +from the brutes. + +For the first time I experienced a sensation I was destined many times +to repeat-that of the sheer size of the animals. Menagerie rhinoceroses +had been of the smaller Indian variety; and in any case most menagerie +beasts are more or less stunted. These two, facing us, their little eyes +blinking, looked like full-grown ironclads on dry land. The moment we +stood erect B. fired at the larger of the two. Instantly they turned and +were off at a tearing run. I opened fire, and B. let loose his second +barrel. At about two hundred and fifty yards the big rhinoceros suddenly +fell on his side, while the other continued his flight. It was all +over-very exciting because we got excited, but not in the least +dangerous. + +The boys were delighted, for here was meat in plenty for everybody. We +measured the beast, photographed him, marvelled at his immense size, and +turned him over to the gunbearers for treatment. In half an hour or so a +long string of porters headed across the hills in the direction of +camp, many miles distant, each carrying his load either of meat, or the +trophies. Rhinoceros hide, properly treated, becomes as transparent as +amber, and so from it can be made many very beautiful souvenirs, such as +bowls, trays, paper knives, table tops, whips, canes, and the like. +And, of course, the feet of one's first rhino are always saved for cigar +boxes or inkstands. + +Already we had an admiring and impatient audience. From all directions +came the carrion birds. They circled far up in the heavens; they shot +downward like plummets from a great height with an inspiring roar of +wings; they stood thick in a solemn circle all around the scene of the +kill; they rose with a heavy flapping when we moved in their direction. +Skulking forms flashed in the grass, and occasionally the pointed ears +of a jackal would rise inquiringly. + +It was by now nearly noon. The sun shone clear and hot; the heat shimmer +rose in clouds from the brown surface of the hills. In all directions +we could make out small gameherds resting motionless in the heat of the +day, the mirage throwing them into fantastic shapes. While the final +disposition was being made of the defunct rhinoceros I wandered over the +edge of the hill to see what I could see, and fairly blundered on a herd +of oryx at about a hundred and fifty yards range. They looked at me a +startled instant, then leaped away to the left at a tremendous speed. +By a lucky shot, I bowled one over. He was a beautiful beast, with his +black and white face and his straight rapierlike horns nearly three feet +long, and I was most pleased to get him. Memba Sasa came running at the +sound of the shot. We set about preparing the head. + +Then through a gap in the hills far to the left we saw a little black +speck moving rapidly in our direction. At the end of a minute we could +make it out as the second rhinoceros. He had run heaven knows how +many miles away, and now he was returning; whether with some idea of +rejoining his companion or from sheer chance, I do not know. At any +rate, here he was, still ploughing along at his swinging trot. His +course led him along a side hill about four hundred yards from where +the oryx lay. When he was directly opposite I took the Springfield and +fired, not at him, but at a spot five or six feet in front of his +nose. The bullet threw up a column of dust. Rhino brought up short with +astonishment, wheeled to the left, and made off at a gallop. I dropped +another bullet in front of him. Again he stopped, changed direction, and +made off. For the third time I hit the ground in front of him. Then he +got angry, put his head down and charged the spot. + +Five more shots I expended on the amusement of that rhinoceros; and +at the last had run furiously charging back and forth in a twenty-yard +space, very angry at the little puffing, screeching bullets, but quite +unable to catch one. Then he made up his mind and departed the way he +had come, finally disappearing as a little rapidly moving black speck +through the gap in the hills where we had first caught sight of him. + +We finished caring for the oryx, and returned to camp. To our surprise +we found we were at least seven or eight miles out. + +In this fashion days passed very quickly. The early dewy start in the +cool of the morning, the gradual grateful warming up of sunrise, and +immediately after, the rest during the midday heats under a shady tree, +the long trek back to camp at sunset, the hot bath after the toilsome +day-all these were very pleasant. Then the swift falling night, and the +gleam of many tiny fires springing up out of the darkness; with each its +sticks full of meat roasting, and its little circle of men, their skins +gleaming in the light. As we sat smoking, we would become aware that +M'ganga, the headman, was standing silent awaiting orders. Some one +would happen to see the white of his eyes, or perhaps he might smile so +that his teeth would become visible. Otherwise he might stand there an +hour, and no one the wiser, for he was respectfully silent, and exactly +the colour of the night. + +We would indicate to him our plans for the morrow, and he would +disappear. Then at a distance of twenty or thirty feet from the front +of our tents a tiny tongue of flame would lick up. Dark figures could be +seen manipulating wood. A blazing fire sprang up, against which we could +see the motionless and picturesque figure of Saa-sita (Six o'Clock), the +askari of the first night watch, leaning on his musket. He was a most +picturesque figure, for his fancy ran to original headdresses, and at +the moment he affected a wonderful upstanding structure made of marabout +wings. + +At this sign that the night had begun, we turned in. A few hyenas +moaned, a few jackals barked: otherwise the first part of the night was +silent, for the hunters were at their silent business, and the hunted +were “layin' low and sayin' nuffin'.” + +Day after day we rode out, exploring the country in different +directions. The great uncertainty as to what of interest we would find +filled the hours with charm. Sometimes we clambered about the cliffs of +the buttes trying to find klipspringers; again we ran miles pursuing the +gigantic eland. I in turn got my first rhinoceros, with no more danger +than had attended the killing of B.'s. On this occasion, however, I had +my first experience of the lightning skill of the first-class gunbearer. +Having fired both barrels, and staggered the beast, I threw open the +breech and withdrew the empty cartridges, intending, of course, as my +next move to fish two more out of my belt. The empty shells were hardly +away from the chambers, however, when a long brown arm shot over +my right shoulder and popped two fresh cartridges in the breech. So +astonished was I at this unexpected apparition, that for a second or so +I actually forgot to close the gun. + + + + + +VII. ON THE MARCH + +After leaving the First Game Camp, we travelled many hours and miles +over rolling hills piling ever higher and higher until they broke +through a pass to illimitable plains. These plains were mantled with the +dense scrub, looking from a distance and from above like the nap of soft +green velvet. Here and there this scrub broke in round or oval patches +of grass plain. Great mountain ranges peered over the edge of a horizon. +Lesser mountain peaks of fantastic shapes-sheer Yosemite cliffs, single +buttes, castles-had ventured singly from behind that same horizon +barricade. The course of a river was marked by a meandering line of +green jungle. + +It took us two days to get to that river. Our intermediate camp was +halfway down the pass. We ousted a hundred indignant straw-coloured +monkeys and twice as many baboons from the tiny flat above the water +hole. They bobbed away cursing over their shoulders at us. Next day we +debouched on the plains. They were rolling, densely grown, covered with +volcanic stones, swarming with game of various sorts. The men marched +well. They were happy, for they had had a week of meat; and each carried +a light lunch of sun-dried biltong or jerky. Some mistaken individuals +had attempted to bring along some “fresh” meat. We found it advisable to +pass to windward of these; but they themselves did not seem to mind. + +It became very hot; for we were now descending to the lower elevations. +The marching through long grass and over volcanic stones was not easy. +Shortly we came out on stumbly hills, mostly rock, very dry, grown with +cactus and discouraged desiccated thorn scrub. Here the sun reflected +powerfully and the bearers began to flag. + +Then suddenly, without warning, we pitched over a little rise to the +river. + +No more marvellous contrast could have been devised. From the blasted +barren scrub country we plunged into the lush jungle. It was not a very +wide jungle, but it was sufficient. The trees were large and variegated, +reaching to a high and spacious upper story above the ground tangle. +From the massive limbs hung vines, festooned and looped like great +serpents. Through this upper corridor flitted birds of bright hue or +striking variegation. We did not know many of them by name, nor did +we desire to; but were content with the impression of vivid flashing +movement and colour. Various monkeys swung, leaped and galloped slowly +away before our advance; pausing to look back at us curiously, the ruffs +of fur standing out all around their little black faces. The lower half +of the forest jungle, however, had no spaciousness at all, but a certain +breathless intimacy. Great leaved plants as tall as little trees, and +trees as small as big plants, bound together by vines, made up the “deep +impenetrable jungle” of our childhood imagining. Here were rustlings, +sudden scurryings, half-caught glimpses, once or twice a crash as some +greater animal made off. Here and there through the thicket wandered +well beaten trails, wide, but low, so that to follow them one would have +to bend double. These were the paths of rhinoceroses. The air smelt warm +and moist and earthy, like the odour of a greenhouse. + +We skirted this jungle until it gave way to let the plain down to the +river. Then, in an open grove of acacias, and fairly on the river's +bank, we pitched our tents. + +These acacia trees were very noble big chaps, with many branches and a +thick shade. In their season they are wonderfully blossomed with white, +with yellow, sometimes even with vivid red flowers. Beneath them was +only a small matter of ferns to clear away. + +Before us the sodded bank rounded off ten feet the river itself. At this +point far up in its youth it was a friendly river. Its noble width ran +over shallows of yellow sand or of small pebbles. Save for unexpected +deep holes one could wade across it anywhere. Yet it was very wide, with +still reaches of water, with islands of gigantic papyrus, with sand bars +dividing the current, and with always the vista for a greater or lesser +distance down through the jungle along its banks. From our canvas chairs +we could look through on one side to the arid country, and on the other +to this tropical wonderland. + +Yes, at this point in its youth it was indeed a friendly river in every +sense of the word. There are three reasons, ordinarily, why one cannot +bathe in the African rivers. In the first place, they are nearly all +disagreeably muddy; in the second place, cold water in a tropical +climate causes horrible congestions; in the third place they swarm +with crocodiles and hippos. But this river was as yet unpolluted by the +alluvial soil of the lower countries; the sun on its shallows had warmed +its waters almost to blood heat; and the beasts found no congenial +haunts in these clear shoals. Almost before our tents were up the men +were splashing. And always my mental image of that river's beautiful +expanse must include round black heads floating like gourds where the +water ran smoothest. + +Our tents stood all in a row facing the stream, the great trees at +their backs. Down in the grove the men had pitched their little white +shelters. Happily they settled down to ease. Settling down to ease, in +the case of the African porter, consists in discarding as many clothes +as possible. While on the march he wears everything he owns; whether +from pride or a desire to simplify transportation I am unable to say. He +is supplied by his employer with a blanket and jersey. As supplementals +he can generally produce a half dozen white man's ill-assorted garments: +an old shooting coat, a ragged pair of khaki breeches, a kitchen +tablecloth for a skirt, or something of the sort. If he can raise an +overcoat he is happy, especially if it happen to be a long, thick WINTER +overcoat. The possessor of such a garment will wear it conscientiously +throughout the longest journey and during the hottest noons. But when he +relaxes in camp, he puts away all these prideful possessions and turns +out in the savage simplicity of his red blanket. Draped negligently, +sometimes very negligently, in what may be termed semi-toga fashion, +he stalks about or squats before his little fire in all the glory of a +regained savagery. The contrast of the red with his red bronze or black +skin, the freedom and grace of his movements, the upright carriage of +his fine figure, and the flickering savagery playing in his eyes are +very effective. + +Our men occupied their leisure variously and happily. A great deal of +time they spent before their tiny fires roasting meat and talking. This +talk was almost invariably of specific personal experiences. They bathed +frequently and with pleasure. They slept. Between times they fashioned +ingenious affairs of ornament or use: bows and arrows, throwing clubs, +snuff-boxes of the tips of antelope horns, bound prettily with bright +wire, wooden swords beautifully carved in exact imitation of the +white man's service weapon, and a hundred other such affairs. At this +particular time also they were much occupied in making sandals against +the thorns. These were flat soles of rawhide, the edges pounded to make +them curl up a trifle over the foot, fastened by thongs; very ingenious, +and very useful. To their task they brought song. The labour of Africa +is done to song; weird minor chanting starting high in the falsetto to +trickle unevenly down to the lower registers, or where the matter is one +of serious effort, an antiphony of solo and chorus. From all parts +of the camp come these softly modulated chantings, low and sweet, +occasionally breaking into full voice as the inner occasion swells, +then almost immediately falling again to the murmuring undertone of more +concentrated attention. + +The red blanket was generally worn knotted from one shoulder or bound +around the waist Malay fashion. When it turned into a cowl, with a +miserable and humpbacked expression, it became the Official Badge of +Illness. No matter what was the matter that was the proper thing to +do-to throw the blanket over the head and to assume as miserable a +demeanour as possible. A sore toe demanded just as much concentrated +woe as a case of pneumonia. Sick call was cried after the day's work was +finished. Then M'ganga or one of the askaris lifted up his voice. + +“N'gonjwa! n'gonjwa!” he shouted; and at the shout the red cowls +gathered in front of the tent. Three things were likely to be the +matter: too much meat, fever, or pus infection from slight wounds. To +these in the rainy season would be added the various sorts of colds. +That meant either Epsom salts, quinine, or a little excursion with +the lancet and permanganate. The African traveller gets to be heap big +medicine man within these narrow limits. + +All the red cowls squatted miserably, oh, very miserably, in a row. +The headman stood over them rather fiercely. We surveyed the lot +contemplatively, hoping to heaven that nothing complicated was going to +turn up. One of the tent boys hovered in the background as dispensing +chemist. + +“Well,” said F. at last, “what's the matter with you?” + +The man indicated pointed to his head and the back of his neck and +groaned. If he had a slight headache he groaned just as much as +though his head were splitting. F. asked a few questions, and took +his temperature. The clinical thermometer is in itself considered big +medicine, and often does much good. + +“Too much meat, my friend,” remarked F. in English, and to his boy in +Swahili, “bring the cup.” + +He put in this cup a triple dose of Epsom salts. The African requires +three times a white man's dose. This, pathologically, was all that was +required: but psychologically the job was just begun. Your African can +do wonderful things with his imagination. If he thinks he is going to +die, die he will, and very promptly, even though he is ailing of the +most trivial complaint. If he thinks he is going to get well, he is +very apt to do so in face of extraordinary odds. Therefore the white +man desires not only to start his patient's internal economy with Epsom +salts, but also to stir his faith. To this end F. added to that triple +dose of medicine a spoonful of Chutney, one of Worcestershire sauce, +a few grains of quinine, Sparklets water and a crystal or so of +permanganate to turn the mixture a beautiful pink. This assortment the +patient drank with gratitude-and the tears running down his cheeks. + +“He will carry a load to-morrow,” F. told the attentive M'ganga. + +The next patient had fever. This one got twenty grains of quinine in +water. + +“This man carries no load to-morrow,” was the direction, “but he must +not drop behind.” + +Two or three surgical cases followed. Then a big Kavirondo rose to his +feet. + +“Nini?” demanded F. + +“Homa-fever,” whined the man. + +F. clapped his hand on the back of the other's neck. + +“I think,” he remarked contemplatively in English, “that you're a liar, +and want to get out of carrying your load.” + +The clinical thermometer showed no evidence of temperature. + +“I'm pretty near sure you're a liar,” observed F. in the pleasantest +conversational tone and still in English, “but you may be merely a poor +diagnostician. Perhaps your poor insides couldn't get away with that +rotten meat I saw you lugging around. We'll see.” + +So he mixed a pint of medicine. + +“There's Epsom salts for the real part of trouble,” observed F., still +talking to himself, “and here's a few things for the fake.” + +He then proceeded to concoct a mixture whose recoil was the exact +measure of his imagination. The imagination was only limited by the +necessity of keeping the mixture harmless. Every hot, biting, nauseous +horror in camp went into that pint measure. + +“There,” concluded F., “if you drink that and come back again to-morrow +for treatment, I'll believe you ARE sick.” + +Without undue pride I would like to record that I was the first to think +of putting in a peculiarly nauseous gun oil, and thereby acquired a +reputation of making tremendous medicine. + +So implicit is this faith in white man's medicine that at one of the +Government posts we were approached by one of the secondary chiefs of +the district. He was a very nifty savage, dressed for calling, with his +hair done in ropes like a French poodle's, his skin carefully oiled and +reddened, his armlets and necklets polished, and with the ceremonial +ball of black feathers on the end of his long spear. His gait was the +peculiar mincing teeter of savage conventional society. According to +custom, he approached unsmiling, spat carefully in his palm, and shook +hands. Then he squatted and waited. + +“What is it?” we asked after it became evident he really wanted +something besides the pleasure of our company. + +“N'dowa-medicine,” said he. + +“Why do you not go the Government dispensary?” we demanded. + +“The doctor there is an Indian; I want REAL medicine, white man's +medicine,” he explained. + +Immensely flattered, of course, we wanted further to know what ailed +him. + +“Nothing,” said he blandly, “nothing at all; but it seemed an excellent +chance to get good medicine.” + +After the clinic was all attended to, we retired to our tents and the +screeching-hot bath so grateful in the tropics. When we emerged, in +our mosquito boots and pajamas, the daylight was gone. Scores of little +blazes licked and leaped in the velvet blackness round about, casting +the undergrowth and the lower branches of the trees into flat planes +like the cardboard of a stage setting. Cheerful, squatted figures sat in +silhouette or in the relief of chance high light. Long switches of +meat roasted before the fires. A hum of talk, bursts of laughter, the +crooning of minor chants mingled with the crackling of thorns. Before +our tents stood the table set for supper. Beyond it lay the pile of +firewood, later to be burned on the altar of our safety against beasts. +The moonlight was casting milky shadows over the river and under the +trees opposite. In those shadows gleamed many fireflies. Overhead were +millions of stars, and a little breeze that wandered through upper +branches. + +But in Equatorial Africa the simple bands of velvet black, against the +spangled brightnesses that make up the visual night world, must give way +in interest to the other world of sound. The air hums with an undertone +of insects; the plain and hill and jungle are populous with voices +furtive or bold. In daytime one sees animals enough, in all conscience, +but only at night does he sense the almost oppressive feeling of the +teeming life about him. The darkness is peopled. Zebra bark, bucks blow +or snort or make the weird noises of their respective species; hyenas +howl; out of an immense simian silence a group of monkeys suddenly break +into chatterings; ostriches utter their deep hollow boom; small things +scurry and squeak; a certain weird bird of the curlew or plover sort +wails like a lonesome soul. Especially by the river, as here, are the +boomings of the weirdest of weird bullfrogs, and the splashings and +swishings of crocodile and hippopotamus. One is impressed with the +busyness of the world surrounding him; every bird or beast, the hunter +and the hunted, is the centre of many important affairs. The world +swarms. + +And then, some miles away a lion roars, the earth and air vibrating to +the sheer power of the sound. The world falls to a blank dead silence. +For a full minute every living creature of the jungle or of the veldt +holds its breath. Their lord has spoken. + +After dinner we sat in our canvas chairs, smoking. The guard fire in +front of our tent had been lit. On the other side of it stood one of our +askaris leaning on his musket. He and his three companions, turn about, +keep the flames bright against the fiercer creatures. + +After a time we grew sleepy. I called Saa-sita and entrusted to him my +watch. On the crystal of this I had pasted a small piece of surgeon's +plaster. When the hour hand reached the surgeon's plaster, he must wake +us up. Saa-sita was a very conscientious and careful man. One day I took +some time hitching my pedometer properly to his belt: I could not wear +it effectively myself because I was on horseback. At the end of the +ten-hour march it registered a mile and a fraction. Saa-sita explained +that he wished to take especial care of it, so he had wrapped it in a +cloth and carried it all day in his hand! + +We turned in. As I reached over to extinguish the lantern I issued my +last command for the day. + +“Watcha kalele, Saa-sita,” I told the askari; at once he lifted up +his voice to repeat my words. “Watcha kalele!” Immediately from the +Responsible all over camp the word came back-from gunbearers, from +M'ganga, from tent boys-“kalele! kalele! kalele!” + +Thus commanded, the boisterous fun, the croon of intimate talk, the +gently rising and falling tide of melody fell to complete silence. Only +remained the crackling of the fire and the innumerable voices of the +tropical night. + + + + + +VIII. THE RIVER JUNGLE + +We camped along this river for several weeks, poking indefinitely and +happily around the country in all directions to see what we could see. +Generally we went together, for neither B. nor myself had been tried out +as yet on dangerous game-those easy rhinos hardly counted-and I think we +both preferred to feel that we had backing until we knew what our nerves +were going to do with us. Nevertheless, occasionally, I would take Memba +Sasa and go out for a little purposeless stroll a few miles up or down +river. Sometimes we skirted the jungle, sometimes we held as near as +possible to the river's bank, sometimes we cut loose and rambled through +the dry, crackling scrub over the low volcanic hills of the arid country +outside. + +Nothing can equal the intense interest of the most ordinary walk in +Africa. It is the only country I know of where a man is thoroughly and +continuously alive. Often when riding horseback with the dogs in my +California home I have watched them in envy of the keen, alert interest +they took in every stone, stick, and bush, in every sight, sound, and +smell. With equal frequency I have expressed that envy, but as something +unattainable to a human being's more phlegmatic make-up. In Africa one +actually rises to continuous alertness. There are dozy moments-except +you curl up in a safe place for the PURPOSE of dozing; again just like +the dog! Every bush, every hollow, every high tuft of grass, every deep +shadow must be scrutinized for danger. It will not do to pass carelessly +any possible lurking place. At the same time the sense of hearing +must be on guard; so that no break of twig or crash of bough can go +unremarked. Rhinoceroses conceal themselves most cannily, and have a +deceitful habit of leaping from a nap into their swiftest stride. Cobras +and puff adders are scarce, to be sure, but very deadly. Lions will +generally give way, if not shot at or too closely pressed; nevertheless +there is always the chance of cubs or too close a surprise. Buffalo lurk +daytimes in the deep thickets, but occasionally a rogue bull lives where +your trail will lead. These things do not happen often, but in the long +run they surely do happen, and once is quite enough provided the beast +gets in. + +At first this continual alertness and tension is rather exhausting; but +after a very short time it becomes second nature. A sudden rustle the +other side a bush no longer brings you up all standing with your heart +in your throat; but you are aware of it, and you are facing the possible +danger almost before your slower brain has issued any orders to that +effect. + +In rereading the above, I am afraid that I am conveying the idea that +one here walks under the shadow of continual uneasiness. This is not in +the least so. One enjoys the sun, and the birds and the little things. +He cultivates the great leisure of mind that shall fill the breadth of +his outlook abroad over a newly wonderful world. But underneath it all +is the alertness, the responsiveness to quick reflexes of judgment and +action, the intimate correlations to immediate environment which must +characterize the instincts of the higher animals. And it is good to live +these things. + +Along the edge of that river jungle were many strange and beautiful +affairs. I could slip along among the high clumps of the thicker bushes +in such a manner as to be continually coming around unexpected bends. Of +such maneouvres are surprises made. The graceful red impalla were here +very abundant. I would come on them, their heads up, their great ears +flung forward, their noses twitching in inquiry of something they +suspected but could not fully sense. When slightly alarmed or suspicious +the does always stood compactly in a herd, while the bucks remained +discreetly in the background, their beautiful, branching, widespread +horns showing over the backs of their harems. The impalla is, in my +opinion, one of the most beautiful and graceful of the African bucks, a +perpetual delight to watch either standing or running. These beasts are +extraordinarily agile, and have a habit of breaking their ordinary fast +run by unexpectedly leaping high in the air. At a distance they give +somewhat the effect of dolphins at sea, only their leaps are higher and +more nearly perpendicular. Once or twice I have even seen one jump over +the back of another. On another occasion we saw a herd of twenty-five or +thirty cross a road of which, evidently, they were a little suspicious. +We could not find a single hoof mark in the dust! Generally these beasts +frequent thin brush country; but I have three or four times seen them +quite out in the open flat plains, feeding with the hartebeeste and +zebra. They are about the size of our ordinary deer, are delicately +fashioned, and can utter the most incongruously grotesque of noises by +way of calls or ordinary conversation. + +The lack of curiosity, or the lack of gallantry, of the impalla bucks +was, in my experience, quite characteristic. They were almost always the +farthest in the background and the first away when danger threatened. +The ladies could look out for themselves. They had no horns to save; +and what do the fool women mean by showing so little sense, anyway! They +deserve what they get! It used to amuse me a lot to observe the utter +abandonment of all responsibility by these handsome gentlemen. When it +came time to depart, they departed. Hang the girls! They trailed along +after as fast as they could. + +The waterbuck-a fine large beast about the size of our caribou, a +well-conditioned buck resembling in form and attitude the finest +of Landseer's stags-on the other hand, had a little more sense of +responsibility, when he had anything to do with the sex at all. He was +hardly what you might call a strictly domestic character. I have hunted +through a country for several days at a time without seeing a single +mature buck of this species, although there were plenty of does, in +herds of ten to fifty, with a few infants among them just sprouting +horns. Then finally, in some small grassy valley, I would come on the +Men's Club. There they were, ten, twenty, three dozen of them, having +the finest kind of an untramelled masculine time all by themselves. +Generally, however, I will say for them, they took care of their own +peoples. There would quite likely be one big old fellow, his harem of +varying numbers, and the younger subordinate bucks all together in a +happy family. When some one of the lot announced that something was +about, and they had all lined up to stare in the suspected direction, +the big buck was there in the foreground of inquiry. When finally they +made me out, it was generally the big buck who gave the signal. He +went first, to be sure, but his going first was evidently an act of +leadership, and not merely a disgraceful desire to get away before the +rest did. + +But the waterbuck had to yield in turn to the plains +gazelles; especially to the Thompson's gazelle, familiarly-and +affectionately-known as the “Tommy.” He is a quaint little chap, +standing only a foot and a half tall at the shoulder, fawn colour on +top, white beneath, with a black, horizontal stripe on his side, like +a chipmunk, most lightly and gracefully built. When he was first made, +somebody told him that unless he did something characteristic, +like waggling his little tail, he was likely to be mistaken by the +undiscriminating for his bigger cousin, the Grant's gazelle. He has +waggled his tail ever since, and so is almost never mistaken for a +Grant's gazelle, even by the undiscriminating. Evidently his religion is +Mohammedan, for he always has a great many wives. He takes good care of +them, however. When danger appears, even when danger threatens, he +is the last to leave the field. Here and there he dashes frantically, +seeing that the women and children get off. And when the herd tops the +hill, Tommy's little horns bring up the rear of the procession. I like +Tommy. He is a cheerful, gallant, quaint little person, with the air of +being quite satisfied with his own solution of this complicated world. + +Among the low brush at the edge of the river jungle dwelt also the +dik-dik, the tiniest miniature of a deer you could possibly imagine. +His legs are lead pencil size, he stands only about nine inches tall, he +weighs from five to ten pounds; and yet he is a perfect little antelope, +horns and all. I used to see him singly or in pairs standing quite +motionless and all but invisible in the shade of bushes; or leaping +suddenly to his feet and scurrying away like mad through the dry grass. +His personal opinion of me was generally expressed in a loud clear +whistle. But then nobody in this strange country talks the language you +would naturally expect him to talk! Zebra bark, hyenas laugh, impallas +grunt, ostriches boom like drums, leopards utter a plaintive sigh, +hornbills cry like a stage child, bushbucks sound like a cross between +a dog and a squawky toy-and so on. There is only one safe rule of the +novice in Africa: NEVER BELIEVE A WORD THE JUNGLE AND VELDT PEOPLE TELL +YOU. + +These two-the impalla and the waterbuck-were the principal buck we would +see close to the river. Occasionally, however, we came on a few oryx, +down for a drink, beautiful big antelope, with white and black faces, +roached manes, and straight, nearly parallel, rapier horns upward of +three feet long. A herd of these creatures, the light gleaming on their +weapons, held all at the same slant, was like a regiment of bayonets in +the sun. And there were also the rhinoceroses to be carefully espied +and avoided. They lay obliterated beneath the shade of bushes, and arose +with a mighty blow-off of steam. Whereupon we withdrew silently, for we +wanted to shoot no more rhinos, unless we had to. + +Beneath all these obvious and startling things, a thousand other +interesting matters were afoot. In the mass and texture of the jungle +grew many strange trees and shrubs. One most scrubby, fat and leafless +tree, looking as though it were just about to give up a discouraged +existence, surprised us by putting forth, apparently directly from +its bloated wood, the most wonderful red blossoms. Another otherwise +self-respecting tree hung itself all over with plump bologna sausages +about two feet long and five inches thick. A curious vine hung like a +rope, with Turk's-head knots about a foot apart on its whole length, +like the hand-over-hand ropes of gymnasiums. Other ropes were studded +all over with thick blunt bosses, resembling much the outbreak on one +sort of Arts-and-Crafts door: the sort intended to repel Mail-clad +Hosts. + +The monkeys undoubtedly used such obvious highways through the trees. +These little people were very common. As we walked along, they withdrew +before us. We could make out their figures galloping hastily across the +open places, mounting bushes and stubs to take a satisfying backward +look, clambering to treetops, and launching themselves across the +abysses between limbs. If we went slowly, they retired in silence. If +we hurried at all, they protested in direct ratio to the speed of +our advance. And when later the whole safari, loads on heads, marched +inconsiderately through their jungle! We happened to be hunting on a +parallel course a half mile away, and we could trace accurately the +progress of our men by the outraged shrieks, chatterings, appeals to +high heaven for at least elemental justice to the monkey people. + +Often, too, we would come on concourses of the big baboons. They +certainly carried on weighty affairs of their own according to a fixed +polity. I never got well enough acquainted with them to master the +details of their government, but it was indubitably built on patriarchal +lines. When we succeeded in approaching without being discovered, we +would frequently find the old men baboons squatting on their heels in a +perfect circle, evidently discussing matters of weight and portent. Seen +from a distance, their group so much resembled the council circles +of native warriors that sometimes, in a native country, we made that +mistake. Outside this solemn council, the women, young men and children +went about their daily business, whatever that was. Up convenient low +trees or bushes roosted sentinels. + +We never remained long undiscovered. One of the sentinels barked +sharply. At once the whole lot loped away, speedily but with a curious +effect of deliberation. The men folks held their tails in a proud high +sideways arch; the curious youngsters clambered up bushes to take a +hasty look; the babies clung desperately with all four feet to the thick +fur on their mothers' backs; the mothers galloped along imperturbably +unheeding of infantile troubles aloft. The side hill was bewildering +with the big bobbing black forms. + +In this lower country the weather was hot, and the sun very strong. The +heated air was full of the sounds of insects; some of them comfortable, +like the buzzing of bees, some of them strange and unusual to us. One +cicada had a sustained note, in quality about like that of our own +August-day's friend, but in quantity and duration as the roar of a train +to the gentle hum of a good motor car. Like all cicada noises it did not +usurp the sound world, but constituted itself an underlying basis, so +to speak. And when it stopped the silence seemed to rush in as into a +vacuum! + +We had likewise the aeroplane beetle. He was so big that he would have +made good wing-shooting. His manner of flight was the straight-ahead, +heap-of-buzz, plenty-busy, don't-stop-a-minute-or-you'll-come-down +method of the aeroplane; and he made the same sort of a hum. His +first-cousin, mechanically, was what we called the wind-up-the-watch +insect. This specimen possessed a watch-an old-fashioned Waterbury, +evidently-that he was continually winding. It must have been hard work +for the poor chap, for it sounded like a very big watch. + +All these things were amusing. So were the birds. The African bird is +quite inclined to be didactic. He believes you need advice, and he means +to give it. To this end he repeats the same thing over and over until +he thinks you surely cannot misunderstand. One chap especially whom we +called the lawyer bird, and who lived in the treetops, had four phrases +to impart. He said them very deliberately, with due pause between each; +then he repeated them rapidly; finally he said them all over again with +an exasperated bearing-down emphasis. The joke of it is I cannot now +remember just how they went! Another feathered pedagogue was continually +warning us to go slow; very good advice near an African jungle. +“Poley-poley! Poley-poley!” he warned again and again; which is good +Swahili for “slowly! slowly!” We always minded him. There were many +others, equally impressed with their own wisdom, but the one I remember +with most amusement was a dilatory person who apparently never got +around to his job until near sunset. Evidently he had contracted to +deliver just so many warnings per diem; and invariably he got so busy +chasing insects, enjoying the sun, gossiping with a friend and generally +footling about that the late afternoon caught him unawares with never a +chirp accomplished. So he sat in a bush and said his say over and over +just as fast as he could without pause for breath or recreation. It was +really quite a feat. Just at dusk, after two hours of gabbling, he would +reach the end of his contracted number. With final relieved chirp he +ended. + +It has been said that African birds are “songless.” This is a careless +statement that can easily be read to mean that African birds are silent. +The writer evidently must have had in mind as a criterion some of our +own or the English great feathered soloists. Certainly the African +jungle seems to produce no individual performers as sustained as our own +bob-o-link, our hermit thrush, or even our common robin. But the African +birds are vocal enough, for all that. Some of them have a richness and +depth of timbre perhaps unequalled elsewhere. Of such is the chime-bird +with his deep double note; or the bell-bird tolling like a cathedral in +the blackness of the forest; or the bottle bird that apparently pours +gurgling liquid gold from a silver jug. As the jungle is exceedingly +populous of these feathered specialists, it follows that the early +morning chorus is wonderful. Africa may not possess the soloists, but +its full orchestrial effects are superb. + +Naturally under the equator one expects and demands the “gorgeous +tropical plumage” of the books. He is not disappointed. The sun-birds +of fifty odd species, the brilliant blue starlings, the various parrots, +the variegated hornbills, the widower-birds, and dozens of others whose +names would mean nothing flash here and there in the shadow and in the +open. With them are hundreds of quiet little bodies just as interesting +to one who likes birds. From the trees and bushes hang pear-shaped +nests plaited beautifully of long grasses, hard and smooth as hand-made +baskets, the work of the various sorts of weaver-birds. In the tops of +the trees roosted tall marabout storks like dissipated, hairless old +club-men in well-groomed, correct evening dress. + +And around camp gathered the swift brown kites. They were robbers and +villains, but we could not hate them. All day long they sailed back +and forth spying sharply. When they thought they saw their chance, they +stooped with incredible swiftness to seize a piece of meat. Sometimes +they would snatch their prize almost from the hands of its rightful +owner, and would swoop triumphantly upward again pursued by polyglot +maledictions and a throwing stick. They were very skilful on their +wings. I have many times seen them, while flying, tear up and devour +large chunks of meat. It seems to my inexperience as an aviator rather a +nice feat to keep your balance while tearing with your beak at meat held +in your talons. Regardless of other landmarks, we always knew when we +were nearing camp, after one of our strolls, by the gracefully wheeling +figures of our kites. + + + + + +IX. THE FIRST LION + +One day we all set out to make our discoveries: F., B., and I with our +gunbearers, Memba Sasa, Mavrouki, and Simba, and ten porters to bring +in the trophies, which we wanted very much, and the meat, which the men +wanted still more. We rode our horses, and the syces followed. This made +quite a field force-nineteen men all told. Nineteen white men would be +exceedingly unlikely to get within a liberal half mile of anything; but +the native has sneaky ways. + +At first we followed between the river and the low hills, but when the +latter drew back to leave open a broad flat, we followed their line. At +this point they rose to a clifflike headland a hundred and fifty feet +high, flat on top. We decided to investigate that mesa, both for the +possibilities of game, and for the chance of a view abroad. + +The footing was exceedingly noisy and treacherous, for it was composed +of flat, tinkling little stones. Dried-up, skimpy bushes just higher +than our heads made a thin but regular cover. There seemed not to be a +spear of anything edible, yet we caught the flash of red as a herd of +impalla melted away at our rather noisy approach. Near the foot of the +hill we dismounted, with orders to all the men but the gunbearers to +sit down and make themselves comfortable. Should we need them we could +easily either signal or send word. Then we set ourselves toilsomely to +clamber up that volcanic hill. + +It was not particularly easy going, especially as we were trying to walk +quietly. You see, we were about to surmount a skyline. Surmounting a +skyline is always most exciting anywhere, for what lies beyond is at +once revealed as a whole and contains the very essence of the unknown; +but most decidedly is this true in Africa. That mesa looked flat, and +almost anything might be grazing or browsing there. So we proceeded +gingerly, with due regard to the rolling of the loose rocks or the +tinkling of the little pebbles. + +But long before we had reached that alluring skyline we were halted by +the gentle snapping of Mavrouki's fingers. That, strangely enough, is a +sound to which wild animals seem to pay no attention, and is therefore +most useful as a signal. We looked back. The three gunbearers were +staring to the right of our course. About a hundred yards away, on +the steep side hill, and partly concealed by the brush, stood two +rhinoceroses. + +They were side by side, apparently dozing. We squatted on our heels for +a consultation. + +The obvious thing, as the wind was from them, was to sneak quietly by, +saying nuffin' to nobody. But although we wanted no more rhino, we very +much wanted rhino pictures. A discussion developed no really good reason +why we should not kodak these especial rhinos-except that there were two +of them. So we began to worm our way quietly through the bushes in their +direction. + +F. and B. deployed on the flanks, their double-barrelled rifles ready +for instant action. I occupied the middle with that dangerous weapon the +3A kodak. Memba Sasa followed at my elbow, holding my big gun. + +Now the trouble with modern photography is that it is altogether too +lavish in its depiction of distances. If you do not believe it, take a +picture of a horse at as short a range as twenty-five yards. That equine +will, in the development, have receded to a respectable middle distance. +Therefore it had been agreed that the advance of the battle line was +to cease only when those rhinoceroses loomed up reasonably large in +the finder. I kept looking into the finder, you may be sure. Nearer and +nearer we crept. The great beasts were evidently basking in the sun. +Their little pig eyes alone gave any sign of life. Otherwise they +exhibited the complete immobility of something done in granite. Probably +no other beast impresses one with quite this quality. I suppose it is +because even the little motions peculiar to other animals are with +the rhinoceros entirely lacking. He is not in the least of a nervous +disposition, so he does not stamp his feet nor change his position. It +is useless for him to wag his tail; for, in the first place, the tail is +absurdly inadequate; and, in the second place, flies are not among his +troubles. Flies wouldn't bother you either, if you had a skin two inches +thick. So there they stood, inert and solid as two huge brown rocks, +save for the deep, wicked twinkle of their little eyes. + +Yes, we were close enough to “see the whites of their eyes,” if they +had had any: and also to be within the range of their limited vision. Of +course we were now stalking, and taking advantage of all the cover. + +Those rhinoceroses looked to me like two Dreadnaughts. The African +two-horned rhinoceros is a bigger animal anyway than our circus friend, +who generally comes from India. One of these brutes I measured went five +feet nine inches at the shoulder, and was thirteen feet six inches from +bow to stern. Compare these dimensions with your own height and with the +length of your motor car. It is one thing to take on such beasts in the +hurry of surprise, the excitement of a charge, or to stalk up to within +a respectable range of them with a gun at ready. But this deliberate +sneaking up with the hope of being able to sneak away again was a little +too slow and cold-blooded. It made me nervous. I liked it, but I knew +at the time I was going to like it a whole lot better when it was +triumphantly over. + +We were now within twenty yards (they were standing starboard side on), +and I prepared to get my picture. To do so I would either have to step +quietly out into sight, trusting to the shadow and the slowness of my +movements to escape observation, or hold the camera above the bush, +directing it by guess work. It was a little difficult to decide. I knew +what I OUGHT to do-- + +Without the slightest premonitory warning those two brutes snorted and +whirled in their tracks to stand facing in our direction. After the dead +stillness they made a tremendous row, what with the jerky suddenness of +their movements, their loud snorts, and the avalanche of echoing stones +and boulders they started down the hill. + +This was the magnificent opportunity. At this point I should boldly +have stepped out from behind my bush, levelled my trusty 3A, and coolly +snapped the beasts, “charging at fifteen yards.” Then, if B.'s and F.'s +shots went absolutely true, or if the brutes didn't happen to smash the +camera as well as me, I, or my executors as the case might be, would +have had a fine picture. + +But I didn't. I dropped that expensive 3A Special on some hard rocks, +and grabbed my rifle from Memba Sasa. If you want really to know why, go +confront your motor car at fifteen or twenty paces, multiply him by two, +and endow him with an eagerly malicious disposition. + +They advanced several yards, halted, faced us for perhaps five or +six seconds, uttered snort, whirled with the agility of polo ponies, +departed at a swinging trot and with surprising agility along the steep +side hill. + +I recovered the camera, undamaged, and we continued our climb. + +The top of the mesa was disappointing as far as game was concerned. It +was covered all over with red stones, round, and as large as a man's +head. Thornbushes found some sort of sustenance in the interstices. + +But we had gained to a magnificent view. Below us lay the narrow flat, +then the winding jungle of our river, then long rolling desert country, +gray with thorn scrub, sweeping upward to the base of castellated buttes +and one tremendous riven cliff mountain, dropping over the horizon to a +very distant blue range. Behind us eight or ten miles away was the low +ridge through which our journey had come. The mesa on which we stood +broke back at right angles to admit another stream flowing into our own. +Beyond this stream were rolling hills, and scrub country, the hint of +blue peaks and illimitable distances falling away to the unknown Tara +Desert and the sea. + +There seemed to be nothing much to be gained here, so we made up our +minds to cut across the mesa, and from the other edge of it to overlook +the valley of the tributary river. This we would descend until we came +to our horses. + +Accordingly we stumbled across a mile or so of those round and rolling +stones. Then we found ourselves overlooking a wide flat or pocket where +the stream valley widened. It extended even as far as the upward fling +of the barrier ranges. Thick scrub covered it, but erratically, so that +here and there were little openings or thin places. We sat down, manned +our trusty prism glasses, and gave ourselves to the pleasing occupation +of looking the country over inch by inch. + +This is great fun. It is a game a good deal like puzzle pictures. +Re-examination generally develops new and unexpected beasts. We repeated +to each other aloud the results of our scrutiny, always without removing +the glasses from our eyes. + +“Oryx, one,” said F.; “oryx, two.” + +“Giraffe,” reported B., “and a herd of impalla.” + +I saw another giraffe, and another oryx, then two rhinoceroses. + +The three bearers squatted on their heels behind us, their fierce eyes +staring straight ahead, seeing with the naked eye what we were finding +with six-power glasses. + +We turned to descend the hill. In the very centre of the deep shade of +a clump of trees, I saw the gleam of a waterbuck's horns. While I was +telling of this, the beast stepped from his concealment, trotted a short +distance upstream and turned to climb a little ridge parallel to that +by which we were descending. About halfway up he stopped, staring in +our direction, his head erect, the slight ruff under his neck standing +forward. He was a good four hundred yards away. B., who wanted him, +decided the shot too chancy. He and F. slipped backward until they had +gained the cover of the little ridge, then hastened down the bed of +the ravine. Their purpose was to follow the course already taken by the +waterbuck until they should have sneaked within better range. In the +meantime I and the gunbearers sat down in full view of the buck. This +was to keep his attention distracted. + +We sat there a long time. The buck never moved but continued to stare +at what evidently puzzled him. Time passes very slowly in such +circumstances, and it seemed incredible that the beast should continue +much longer to hold his fixed attitude. Nevertheless B. and F. were +working hard. We caught glimpses of them occasionally slipping from bush +to bush. Finally B. knelt and levelled his rifle. At once I turned my +glasses on the buck. Before the sound of the rifle had reached me, I saw +him start convulsively, then make off at the tearing run that indicates +a heart hit. A moment later the crack of the rifle and the dull plunk of +the hitting bullet struck my ear. + +We tracked him fifty yards to where he lay dead. He was a fine trophy, +and we at once set the boys to preparing it and taking the meat. In the +meantime we sauntered down to look at the stream. It was a small +rapid affair, but in heavy papyrus, with sparse trees, and occasional +thickets, and dry hard banks. The papyrus should make a good lurking +place for almost anything; but the few points of access to the water +failed to show many interesting tracks. Nevertheless we decided to +explore a short distance. + +For an hour we walked among high thornbushes, over baking hot earth. We +saw two or three dik-dik and one of the giraffes. At that time it had +become very hot, and the sun was bearing down on us as with the weight +of a heavy hand. The air had the scorching, blasting quality of an +opened furnace door. Our mouths were getting dry and sticky in that +peculiar stage of thirst on which no luke-warm canteen water in +necessarily limited quantity has any effect. So we turned back, picked +up the men with the waterbuck, and plodded on down the little stream, +or, rather, on the red-hot dry valley bottom outside the stream's +course, to where the syces were waiting with our horses. We mounted with +great thankfulness. It was now eleven o'clock, and we considered our day +as finished. + +The best way for a distance seemed to follow the course of the tributary +stream to its point of junction with our river. We rode along, rather +relaxed in the suffocating heat. F. was nearest the stream. At one point +it freed itself of trees and brush and ran clear, save for low papyrus, +ten feet down below a steep eroded bank. F. looked over and uttered a +startled exclamation. I spurred my horse forward to see. + +Below us, about fifteen yards away, was the carcass of a waterbuck half +hidden in the foot-high grass. A lion and two lionesses stood upon it, +staring up at us with great yellow eyes. That picture is a very vivid +one in my memory, for those were the first wild lions I had ever seen. +My most lively impression was of their unexpected size. They seemed to +bulk fully a third larger than my expectation. + +The magnificent beasts stood only long enough to see clearly what had +disturbed them, then turned, and in two bounds had gained the shelter of +the thicket. + +Now the habit in Africa is to let your gunbearers carry all your guns. +You yourself stride along hand free. It is an English idea, and +is pretty generally adopted out there by every one, of whatever +nationality. They will explain it to you by saying that in such a +climate a man should do only necessary physical work, and that a +good gunbearer will get a weapon into your hand so quickly and in so +convenient a position that you will lose no time. I acknowledge the +gunbearers are sometimes very skilful at this, but I do deny that there +is no loss of time. The instant of distracted attention while receiving +a weapon, the necessity of recollecting the nervous correlations +after the transfer, very often mark just the difference between a sure +instinctive snapshot and a lost opportunity. It reasons that the man +with the rifle in his hand reacts instinctively, in one motion, to get +his weapon into play. If the gunbearer has the gun, HE must first react +to pass it up, the master must receive it properly, and THEN, and not +until then, may go on from where the other man began. As for physical +labour in the tropics: if a grown man cannot without discomfort or evil +effects carry an eight-pound rifle, he is too feeble to go out at all. +In a long Western experience I have learned never to be separated from +my weapon; and I believe the continuance of this habit in Africa saved +me a good number of chances. + +At any rate, we all flung ourselves off our horses. I, having my +rifle in my hand, managed to throw a shot after the biggest lion as he +vanished. It was a snap at nothing, and missed. Then in an opening on +the edge a hundred yards away appeared one of the lionesses. She was +trotting slowly, and on her I had time to draw a hasty aim. At the shot +she bounded high in the air, fell, rolled over, and was up and into the +thicket before I had much more than time to pump up another shell from +the magazine. Memba Sasa in his eagerness got in the way-the first and +last time he ever made a mistake in the field. + +By this time the others had got hold of their weapons. We fronted the +blank face of the thicket. + +The wounded animal would stand a little waiting. We made a wide circle +to the other side of the stream. There we quickly picked up the trail of +the two uninjured beasts. They had headed directly over the hill, where +we speedily lost all trace of them on the flint-like surface of the +ground. We saw a big pack of baboons in the only likely direction for +a lion to go. Being thus thrown back on a choice of a hundred other +unlikely directions, we gave up that slim chance and returned to the +thicket. + +This proved to be a very dense piece of cover. Above the height of the +waist the interlocking branches would absolutely prevent any progress, +but by stooping low we could see dimly among the simpler main stems to +a distance of perhaps fifteen or twenty feet. This combination at once +afforded the wounded lioness plenty of cover in which to hide, plenty of +room in which to charge home, and placed us under the disadvantage of a +crouched or crawling attitude with limited vision. We talked the matter +over very thoroughly. There was only one way to get that lioness out; +and that was to go after her. The job of going after her needed some +planning. The lion is cunning and exceeding fierce. A flank attack, once +we were in the thicket, was as much to be expected as a frontal charge. + +We advanced to the thicket's edge with many precautions. To our relief +we found she had left us a definite trail. B. and I kneeling took up +positions on either side, our rifles ready. F. and Simba crawled by +inches eight or ten feet inside the thicket. Then, having executed this +manoeuvre safely, B. moved up to protect our rear while I, with Memba +Sasa, slid down to join F. + +From this point we moved forward alternately. I would crouch, all +alert, my rifle ready, while F. slipped by me and a few feet ahead. Then +he get organized for battle while I passed him. Memba Sasa and Simba, +game as badgers, their fine eyes gleaming with excitement, their +faces shining, crept along at the rear. B. knelt outside the thicket, +straining his eyes for the slightest movement either side of the line of +our advance. Often these wily animals will sneak back in a half circle +to attack their pursuers from behind. Two or three of the bolder porters +crouched alongside B., peering eagerly. The rest had quite properly +retired to the safe distance where the horses stood. + +We progressed very, very slowly. Every splash of light or mottled +shadow, every clump of bush stems, every fallen log had to be examined, +and then examined again. And how we did strain our eyes in a vain +attempt to penetrate the half lights, the duskinesses of the closed-in +thicket not over fifteen feet away! And then the movement forward of two +feet would bring into our field of vision an entirely new set of tiny +vistas and possible lurking places. + +Speaking for myself, I was keyed up to a tremendous tension. I stared +until my eyes ached; every muscle and nerve was taut. Everything +depended on seeing the beast promptly, and firing quickly. With the +manifest advantage of being able to see us, she would spring to battle +fully prepared. A yellow flash and a quick shot seemed about to size up +that situation. Every few moments, I remember, I surreptitiously +held out my hand to see if the constantly growing excitement and the +long-continued strain had affected its steadiness. + +The combination of heat and nervous strain was very exhausting. The +sweat poured from me; and as F. passed me I saw the great drops standing +out on his face. My tongue got dry, my breath came laboriously. Finally +I began to wonder whether physically I should be able to hold out. We +had been crawling, it seemed, for hours. I dared not look back, but we +must have come a good quarter mile. Finally F. stopped. + +“I'm all in for water,” he gasped in a whisper. + +Somehow that confession made me feel a lot better. I had thought that +I was the only one. Cautiously we settled back on our heels. Memba Sasa +and Simba wiped the sweat from their faces. It seemed that they too had +found the work severe. That cheered me up still more. + +Simba grinned at us, and, worming his way backward with the sinuousity +of a snake, he disappeared in the direction from which we had come. +F. cursed after him in a whisper both for departing and for taking the +risk. But in a moment he had returned carrying two canteens of blessed +water. We took a drink most gratefully. + +I glanced at my watch. It was just under two hours since I had fired +my shot. I looked back. My supposed quarter mile had shrunk to not over +fifty feet! + +After resting a few moments longer, we again took up our systematic +advance. We made perhaps another fifty feet. We were ascending a very +gentle slope. F. was for the moment ahead. Right before us the lion +growled; a deep rumbling like the end of a great thunder roll, fathoms +and fathoms deep, with the inner subterranean vibrations of a heavy +train of cars passing a man inside a sealed building. At the same moment +over F.'s shoulder I saw a huge yellow head rise up, the round eyes +flashing anger, the small black-tipped ears laid back, the great fangs +snarling. The beast was not over twelve feet distant. F. immediately +fired. His shot, hitting an intervening twig, went wild. With the utmost +coolness he immediately pulled the other trigger of his double barrel. +The cartridge snapped. + +“If you will kindly stoop down-” said I, in what I now remember to be +rather an exaggeratedly polite tone. As F.'s head disappeared, I placed +the little gold bead of my 405 Winchester where I thought it would do +the most good, and pulled trigger. She rolled over dead. + +The whole affair had begun and finished with unbelievable swiftness. +From the growl to the fatal shot I don't suppose four seconds elapsed, +for our various actions had followed one another with the speed of the +instinctive. The lioness had growled at our approach, had raised her +head to charge, and had received her deathblow before she had released +her muscles in the spring. There had been no time to get frightened. + +We sat back for a second. A brown hand reached over my shoulder. + +“Mizouri-mizouri sana!” cried Memba Sasa joyously. I shook the hand. + +“Good business!” said F. “Congratulate you on your first lion.” + +We then remembered B., and shouted to him that all was over. He and the +other men wriggled in to where we were lying. He made this distance in +about fifteen seconds. It had taken us nearly an hour. + +We had the lioness dragged out into the open. She was not an especially +large beast, as compared to most of the others I killed later, but at +that time she looked to me about as big as they made them. As a matter +of fact she was quite big enough, for she stood three feet two inches +at the shoulder-measure that against the wall-and was seven feet and +six inches in length. My first bullet had hit her leg, and the last had +reached her heart. + +Every one shook me by the hand. The gunbearers squatted about the +carcass, skilfully removing the skin to an undertone of curious crooning +that every few moments broke out into one or two bars of a chant. As the +body was uncovered, the men crouched about to cut off little pieces of +fat. These they rubbed on their foreheads and over their chests, to make +them brave, they said, and cunning, like the lion. + +We remounted and took up our interrupted journey to camp. It was +a little after two, and the heat was at its worst. We rode rather +sleepily, for the reaction from the high tension of excitement had set +in. Behind us marched the three gunbearers, all abreast, very military +and proud. Then came the porters in single file, the one carrying the +folded lion skin leading the way; those bearing the waterbuck trophy +and meat bringing up the rear. They kept up an undertone of humming in +a minor key; occasionally breaking into a short musical phrase in full +voice. + +We rode an hour. The camp looked very cool and inviting under its wide +high trees, with the river slipping by around the islands of papyrus. A +number of black heads bobbed about in the shallows. The small fires sent +up little wisps of smoke. Around them our boys sprawled, playing simple +games, mending, talking, roasting meat. Their tiny white tents gleamed +pleasantly among the cool shadows. + +I had thought of riding nonchalantly up to our own tents, of dismounting +with a careless word of greeting-- + +“Oh, yes,” I would say, “we did have a good enough day. Pretty hot. Roy +got a fine waterbuck. Yes, I got a lion.” (Tableau on part of Billy.) + +But Memba Sasa used up all the nonchalance there was. As we entered camp +he remarked casually to the nearest man. + +“Bwana na piga simba-the master has killed a lion.” + +The man leaped to his feet. + +“Simba! simba! simba!” he yelled. “Na piga simba!” + +Every one in camp also leaped to his feet, taking up the cry. From the +water it was echoed as the bathers scrambled ashore. The camp broke into +pandemonium. We were surrounded by a dense struggling mass of men. They +reached up scores of black hands to grasp my own; they seized from me +everything portable and bore it in triumph before me-my water bottle, +my rifle, my camera, my whip, my field glasses, even my hat, everything +that was detachable. Those on the outside danced and lifted up their +voices in song, improvised for the most part, and in honor of the day's +work. In a vast swirling, laughing, shouting, triumphant mob we swept +through the camp to where Billy-by now not very much surprised-was +waiting to get the official news. By the measure of this extravagant joy +could we gauge what the killing of a lion means to these people who have +always lived under the dread of his rule. + + + + + +X. LIONS + +A very large lion I killed stood three feet and nine inches at the +withers, and of course carried his head higher than that. The top of +the table at which I sit is only two feet three inches from the floor. +Coming through the door at my back that lion's head would stand over +a foot higher than halfway up. Look at your own writing desk; your own +door. Furthermore, he was nine feet and eleven inches in a straight line +from nose to end of tail, or over eleven feet along the contour of the +back. If he were to rise on his hind feet to strike a man down, he would +stand somewhere between seven and eight feet tall, depending on how +nearly he straightened up. He weighed just under six hundred pounds, or +as much as four well-grown specimens of our own “mountain lion.” I tell +you this that you may realize, as I did not, the size to which a wild +lion grows. Either menagerie specimens are stunted in growth, or their +position and surroundings tend to belittle them, for certainly until a +man sees old Leo in the wilderness he has not understood what a fine old +chap he is. + +This tremendous weight is sheer strength. A lion's carcass when the skin +is removed is a really beautiful sight. The great muscles lie in ropes +and bands; the forearm thicker than a man's leg, the lithe barrel banded +with brawn; the flanks overlaid by the long thick muscles. And this +power is instinct with the nervous force of a highly organized being. +The lion is quick and intelligent and purposeful; so that he brings to +his intenser activities the concentration of vivid passion, whether of +anger, of hunger or of desire. + +So far the opinions of varied experience will jog along together. At +this point they diverge. + +Just as the lion is one of the most interesting and fascinating of +beasts, so concerning him one may hear the most diverse opinions. This +man will tell you that any lion is always dangerous. Another will hold +the king of beasts in the most utter contempt as a coward and a skulker. + +In the first place, generalization about any species of animal is an +exceedingly dangerous thing. I believe that, in the case of the higher +animals at least, the differences in individual temperament are quite +likely to be more numerous than the specific likenesses. Just as +individual men are bright or dull, nervous or phlegmatic, cowardly or +brave, so individual animals vary in like respect. Our own hunters will +recall from their personal experiences how the big bear may have sat +down and bawled harmlessly for mercy, while the little unconsidered +fellow did his best until finished off: how one buck dropped instantly +to a wound that another would carry five miles: how of two equally +matched warriors of the herd one will give way in the fight, while +still uninjured, before his perhaps badly wounded antagonist. The casual +observer might-and often does-say that all bears are cowardly, all bucks +are easily killed, or the reverse, according as the god of chance has +treated him to one spectacle or the other. As well try to generalize +on the human race-as is a certain ecclesiastical habit-that all men are +vile or noble, dishonest or upright, wise or foolish. + +The higher we go in the scale the truer this individualism holds. We +are forced to reason not from the bulk of observations, but from their +averages. If we find ten bucks who will go a mile wounded to two who +succumb in their tracks from similar hurts, we are justified in saying +tentatively that the species is tenacious of life. But as experience +broadens we may modify that statement; for strange indeed are runs of +luck. + +For this reason a good deal of the wise conclusion we read in +sportsmen's narratives is worth very little. Few men have experience +enough with lions to rise to averages through the possibilities of luck. +ESPECIALLY is this true of lions. No beast that roams seems to go more +by luck than felis leo. Good hunters may search for years without seeing +hide nor hair of one of the beasts. Selous, one of the greatest, went to +East Africa for the express purpose of getting some of the fine beasts +there, hunted six weeks and saw none. Holmes of the Escarpment has lived +in the country six years, has hunted a great deal and has yet to kill +his first. One of the railroad officials has for years gone up and down +the Uganda Railway on his handcar, his rifle ready in hopes of the lion +that never appeared; though many are there seen by those with better +fortune. Bronson hunted desperately for this great prize, but failed. +Rainsford shot no lions his first trip, and ran into them only three +years later. Read Abel Chapman's description of his continued bad luck +at even seeing the beasts. MacMillan, after five years' unbroken good +fortune, has in the last two years failed to kill a lion, although he +has made many trips for the purpose. F. told me he followed every rumour +of a lion for two years before he got one. Again, one may hear the most +marvellous of yarns the other way about-of the German who shot one from +the train on the way up from Mombasa; of the young English tenderfoot +who, the first day out, came on three asleep, across a river, and potted +the lot; and so on. The point is, that in the case of lions the element +of sheer chance seems to begin earlier and last longer than is the case +with any other beast. And, you must remember, experience must thrust +through the luck element to the solid ground of averages before it can +have much value in the way of generalization. Before he has reached that +solid ground, a man's opinions depend entirely on what kind of lions +he chances to meet, in what circumstances, and on how matters happen to +shape in the crowded moments. + +But though lack of sufficiently extended experience has much to do with +these decided differences of opinion, I believe that misapprehension +has also its part. The sportsman sees lions on the plains. Likewise the +lions see him, and promptly depart to thick cover or rocky butte. He +comes on them in the scrub; they bound hastily out of sight. He may even +meet them face to face, but instead of attacking him, they turn to right +and left and make off in the long grass. When he follows them, they +sneak cunningly away. If, added to this, he has the good luck to kill +one or two stone dead at a single shot each, he begins to think there is +not much in lion shooting after all, and goes home proclaiming the king +of beasts a skulking coward. + +After all, on what grounds does he base this conclusion? In what way +have circumstances been a test of courage at all? The lion did not +stand and fight, to be sure; but why should he? What was there in it +for lions? Behind any action must a motive exist. Where is the possible +motive for any lion to attack on sight? He does not-except in unusual +cases-eat men; nothing has occurred to make him angry. The obvious thing +is to avoid trouble, unless there is a good reason to seek it. In that +one evidences the lion's good sense, but not his lack of courage. That +quality has not been called upon at all. + +But if the sportsman had done one of two or three things, I am quite +sure he would have had a taste of our friend's mettle. If he had shot at +and even grazed the beast; if he had happened upon him where an exit was +not obvious; or IF HE HAD EVEN FOLLOWED THE LION UNTIL THE LATTER HAD +BECOME TIRED OF THE ANNOYANCE, he would very soon have discovered that +Leo is not all good nature, and that once on his courage will take him +in against any odds. Furthermore, he may be astonished and dismayed +to discover that of a group of several lions, two or three besides the +wounded animal are quite likely to take up the quarrel and charge too. +In other words, in my opinion, the lion avoids trouble when he can, not +from cowardice but from essential indolence or good nature; but does not +need to be cornered* to fight to the death when in his mind his dignity +is sufficiently assailed. + + * This is an important distinction in estimating the inherent + courage of man or beast. Even a mouse will fight when + cornered. + +For of all dangerous beasts the lion, when once aroused, will alone face +odds to the end. The rhinoceros, the elephant, and even the buffalo can +often be turned aside by a shot. A lion almost always charges home.* +Slower and slower he comes, as the bullets strike; but he comes, until +at last he may be just hitching himself along, his face to the enemy, +his fierce spirit undaunted. When finally he rolls over, he bites the +earth in great mouthfuls; and so passes fighting to the last. The death +of a lion is a fine sight. + + * I seem to be generalizing here, but all these conclusions + must be understood to take into consideration the liability + of individual variation. + +No, I must confess, to me the lion is an object of great respect; and +so, I gather, he is to all who have had really extensive experience. +Those like Leslie Tarleton, Lord Delamere, W. N. MacMillan, Baron von +Bronsart, the Hills, Sir Alfred Pease, who are great lion men, all +concede to the lion a courage and tenacity unequalled by any other +living beast. My own experience is of course nothing as compared to that +of these men. Yet I saw in my nine months afield seventy-one lions. None +of these offered to attack when unwounded or not annoyed. On the other +hand, only one turned tail once the battle was on, and she proved to be +a three quarters grown lioness, sick and out of condition. + +It is of course indubitable that where lions have been much shot they +become warier in the matter of keeping out of trouble. They retire to +cover earlier in the morning, and they keep more than a perfunctory +outlook for the casual human being. When hunters first began to go into +the Sotik the lions there would stand imperturbable, staring at the +intruder with curiosity or indifference. Now they have learned that +such performances are not healthy-and they have probably satisfied +their curiosity. But neither in the Sotik, nor even in the plains around +Nairobi itself, does the lion refuse the challenge once it has been put +up to him squarely. Nor does he need to be cornered. He charges in quite +blithely from the open plain, once convinced that you are really an +annoyance. + +As to habits! The only sure thing about a lion is his originality. He +has more exceptions to his rules than the German language. Men who have +been mighty lion hunters for many years, and who have brought to their +hunting close observation, can only tell you what a lion MAY do in +certain circumstances. Following very broad principles, they may even +predict what he is APT to do, but never what he certainly WILL do. That +is one thing that makes lion hunting interesting. + +In general, then, the lion frequents that part of the country where feed +the great game herds. From them he takes his toll by night, retiring +during the day into the shallow ravines, the brush patches, or the rocky +little buttes. I have, however, seen lions miles from game, slumbering +peacefully atop an ant hill. Indeed, occasionally, a pack of lions likes +to live high in the tall-grass ridges where every hunt will mean for +them a four- or five-mile jaunt out and back again. He needs water, +after feeding, and so rarely gets farther than eight or ten miles from +that necessity. + +He hunts at night. This is as nearly invariable a rule as can be +formulated in regard to lions. Yet once, and perhaps twice, I saw +lionesses stalking through tall grass as early as three o'clock in +the afternoon. This eagerness may, or may not, have had to do with the +possession of hungry cubs. The lion's customary harmlessness in the +daytime is best evidenced, however, by the comparative indifference of +the game to his presence then. From a hill we watched three of these +beasts wandering leisurely across the plains below. A herd of kongonis +feeding directly in their path, merely moved aside right and left, quite +deliberately, to leave a passage fifty yards or so wide, but otherwise +paid not the slightest attention. I have several times seen this +incident, or a modification of it. And yet, conversely, on a number of +occasions we have received our first intimation of the presence of lions +by the wild stampeding of the game away from a certain spot. + +However, the most of his hunting is done by dark. Between the hours of +sundown and nine o'clock he and his comrades may be heard uttering the +deep coughing grunt typical of this time of night. These curious, short, +far-sounding calls may be mere evidences of intention, or they may be +a sort of signal by means of which the various hunters keep in touch. +After a little they cease. Then one is quite likely to hear the +petulant, alarmed barking of zebra, or to feel the vibrations of many +hoofs. There is a sense of hurried, flurried uneasiness abroad on the +veldt. + +The lion generally springs on his prey from behind or a little off the +quarter. By the impetus his own weight he hurls his victim forward, +doubling its head under, and very neatly breaking its neck. I have never +seen this done, but the process has been well observed and attested; and +certainly, of the many hundreds of lion kills I have taken the pains +to inspect, the majority had had their necks broken. Sometimes, but +apparently more rarely, the lion kills its prey by a bite in the back of +the neck. I have seen zebra killed in this fashion, but never any of the +buck. It may be possible that the lack of horns makes it more difficult +to break a zebra's neck because of the corresponding lack of leverage +when its head hits the ground sidewise; the instances I have noted may +have been those in which the lion's spring landed too far back to throw +the victim properly; or perhaps they were merely examples of the great +variability in the habits of felis leo. + +Once the kill is made, the lion disembowels the beast very neatly +indeed, and drags the entrails a few feet out of the way. He then eats +what he wants, and, curiously enough, seems often to be very fond of the +skin. In fact, lacking other evidence, it is occasionally possible +to identify a kill as being that of a lion by noticing whether any +considerable portion of the hide has been devoured. After eating he +drinks. Then he is likely to do one of two things: either he returns +to cover near the carcass and lies down, or he wanders slowly and with +satisfaction toward his happy home. In the latter case the hyenas, +jackals, and carrion birds seize their chance. The astute hunter can +often diagnose the case by the general actions and demeanour of these +camp followers. A half dozen sour and disgusted looking hyenas seated +on their haunches at scattered intervals, and treefuls of mournfully +humpbacked vultures sunk in sadness, indicate that the lion has decided +to save the rest of his zebra until to-morrow and is not far away. +On the other hand, a grand flapping, snarling Kilkenny-fair of an +aggregation swirling about one spot in the grass means that the +principal actor has gone home. + +It is ordinarily useless to expect to see the lion actually on his prey. +The feeding is done before dawn, after which the lion enjoys stretching +out in the open until the sun is well up, and then retiring to the +nearest available cover. Still, at the risk of seeming to be perpetually +qualifying, I must instance finding three lions actually on the stale +carcass of a waterbuck at eleven o'clock in the morning of a piping +hot day! In an undisturbed country, or one not much hunted, the early +morning hours up to say nine o'clock are quite likely to show you lions +sauntering leisurely across the open plains toward their lairs. They +go a little, stop a little, yawn, sit down a while, and gradually work +their way home. At those times you come upon them unexpectedly face to +face, or, seeing them from afar, ride them down in a glorious gallop. +Where the country has been much hunted, however, the lion learns to +abandon his kill and seek shelter before daylight, and is almost never +seen abroad. Then one must depend on happening upon him in his cover. + +In the actual hunting of his game the lion is apparently very clever. +He understands the value of cooperation. Two or more will manoeuvre +very skilfully to give a third the chance to make an effective spring; +whereupon the three will share the kill. In a rough country, or +one otherwise favourable to the method, a pack of lions will often +deliberately drive game into narrow ravines or cul de sacs where the +killers are waiting. + +At such times the man favoured by the chance of an encampment within +five miles or so can hear a lion's roar. + +Otherwise I doubt if he is apt often to get the full-voiced, genuine +article. The peculiar questioning cough of early evening is resonant and +deep in vibration, but it is a call rather than a roar. No lion is fool +enough to make a noise when he is stalking. Then afterward, when full +fed, individuals may open up a few times, but only a few times, in +sheer satisfaction, apparently, at being well fed. The menagerie row at +feeding time, formidable as it sounds within the echoing walls, is only +a mild and gentle hint. But when seven or eight lions roar merely to +see how much noise they can make, as when driving game, or trying to +stampede your oxen on a wagon trip, the effect is something tremendous. +The very substance of the ground vibrates; the air shakes. I can only +compare it to the effect of a very large deep organ in a very small +church. There is something genuinely awe-inspiring about it; and when +the repeated volleys rumble into silence, one can imagine the veldt +crouched in a rigid terror that shall endure. + + + + + +XI. LIONS AGAIN + +As to the dangers of lion hunting it is also difficult to write. There +is no question that a cool man, using good judgment as to just what +he can or cannot do, should be able to cope with lion situations. The +modern rifle is capable of stopping the beast, provided the bullet goes +to the right spot. The right spot is large enough to be easy to hit, if +the shooter keeps cool. Our definition of a cool man must comprise the +elements of steady nerves under super-excitement, the ability to think +quickly and clearly, and the mildly strategic quality of being able to +make the best use of awkward circumstances. Such a man, barring sheer +accidents, should be able to hunt lions with absolute certainty for +just as long as he does not get careless, slipshod or over-confident. +Accidents-real accidents, not merely unexpected happenings-are hardly to +be counted. They can occur in your own house. + +But to the man not temperamentally qualified, lion shooting is dangerous +enough. The lion, when he takes the offensive, intends to get his +antagonist. Having made up his mind to that, he charges home, generally +at great speed. The realization that it is the man's life or the beast's +is disconcerting. Also the charging lion is a spectacle much more +awe-inspiring in reality than the most vivid imagination can predict. +He looks very large, very determined, and has uttered certain rumbling, +blood-curdling threats as to what he is going to do about it. It +suddenly seems most undesirable to allow that lion to come any closer, +not even an inch! A hasty, nervous shot misses-- + +An unwounded lion charging from a distance is said to start rather +slowly, and to increase his pace only as he closes. Personally I have +never been charged by an unwounded beast, but I can testify that the +wounded animal comes very fast. Cuninghame puts the rate at about seven +seconds to the hundred yards. Certainly I should say that a man charged +from fifty yards or so would have little chance for a second shot, +provided he missed the first. A hit seemed, in my experience, to the +animal, by sheer force of impact, long enough to permit me to throw in +another cartridge. A lioness thus took four frontal bullets starting at +about sixty yards. An initial miss would probably have permitted her to +close. + +Here, as can be seen, is a great source of danger to a flurried or +nervous beginner. He does not want that lion to get an inch nearer; he +fires at too long a range, misses, and is killed or mauled before he can +reload. This happened precisely so to two young friends of MacMillan. +They were armed with double-rifles, let them off hastily as the beast +started at them from two hundred yards, and never got another chance. If +they had possessed the experience to have waited until the lion had +come within fifty yards they would have had the almost certainty of +four barrels at close range. Though I have seen a lion missed clean well +inside those limits. + +From such performances are so-called lion accidents built. During my +stay in Africa I heard of six white men being killed by lions, and a +number of others mauled. As far as possible I tried to determine the +facts of each case. In every instance the trouble followed either +foolishness or loss of nerve. I believe I should be quite safe in +saying that from identically the same circumstances any of the good lion +men-Tarleton, Lord Delamere, the Hills, and others-would have extricated +themselves unharmed. + +This does not mean that accidents may not happen. Rifles jam, but +generally because of flurried manipulation! One may unexpectedly meet +the lion at too close quarters; a foot may slip, or a cartridge prove +defective. So may one fall downstairs or bump one's head in the dark. +Sufficient forethought and alertness and readiness would go far in +either case to prevent bad results. + +The wounded beast, of course, offers the most interesting problem to the +lion hunter. If it sees the hunter, it is likely to charge him at once. +If hit while making off, however, it is more apt to take cover. Then one +must summon all his good sense and nerve to get it out. No rules can be +given for this; nor am I trying to write a text book for lion hunters. +Any good lion hunter knows a lot more about it than I do. But always +a man must keep in mind three things: that a lion can hide in cover so +short that it seems to the novice as though a jack-rabbit would find +scant concealment there; that he charges like lightning, and that he +can spring about fifteen feet. This spring, coming unexpectedly from an +unseen beast, is about impossible to avoid. Sheer luck may land a fatal +shot; but even then the lion will probably do his damage before he dies. +The rush from a short distance a good quick shot ought to be able to +cope with. + +Therefore the wise hunter assures himself of at least twenty +feet-preferably more-of neutral zone all about him. No matter how long +it takes, he determines absolutely that the lion is not within that +distance. The rest is alertness and quickness. + +As I have said, the amount of cover necessary to conceal a lion is +astonishingly small. He can flatten himself out surprisingly; and +his tawny colour blends so well with the brown grasses that he is +practically invisible. A practised man does not, of course, look for +lions at all. He is after unusual small patches, especially the black +ear tips or the black of the mane. Once guessed at, it is interesting to +see how quickly the hitherto unsuspected animal sketches itself out in +the cover. + +I should, before passing on to another aspect of the matter, mention the +dangerous poisons carried by the lion's claws. Often men have died +from the most trivial surface wounds. The grooves of the claws carry +putrefying meat from the kills. Every sensible man in a lion country +carries a small syringe, and either permanganate or carbolic. And those +mild little remedies he uses full strength! + +The great and overwhelming advantage is of course with the hunter. He +possesses as deadly a weapon: and that weapon will kill at a distance. +This is proper, I think. There are more lions than hunters; and, from +our point of view, the man is more important than the beast. The game is +not too hazardous. By that I mean that, barring sheer accident, a man is +sure to come out all right provided he does accurately the right thing. +In other words, it is a dangerous game of skill, but it does not possess +the blind danger of a forest in a hurricane, say. Furthermore, it is a +game that no man need play unless he wants to. In the lion country he +may go about his business-daytime business-as though he were home at the +farm. + +Such being the case, may I be pardoned for intruding one of my own small +ethical ideas at this point, with the full realization that it depends +upon an entirely personal point of view. As far as my own case goes, +I consider it poor sportsmanship ever to refuse a lion-chance merely +because the advantages are not all in my favour. After all, lion hunting +is on a different plane from ordinary shooting: it is a challenge to +war, a deliberate seeking for mortal combat. Is it not just a little +shameful to pot old felis leo at long range, in the open, near his kill, +and wherever we have him at an advantage-nine times, and then to back +out because that advantage is for once not so marked? I have so often +heard the phrase, “I let him (or them) alone. It was not good enough,” + meaning that the game looked a little risky. + +Do not misunderstand. I am not advising that you bull ahead into the +long grass, or that alone you open fire on a half dozen lions in easy +range. Kind providence endowed you with strategy, and certainly you +should never go in where there is no show for you to use your weapon +effectively. But occasionally the odds will be against you and you will +be called upon to take more or less of a chance. I do not think it is +quite square to quit playing merely because for once your opponent has +been dealt the better cards. If here are too many of them see if you +cannot manoeuvre them; if the grass is long, try every means in your +power to get them out. Stay with them. If finally you fail, you will +at least have the satisfaction of knowing that circumstances alone have +defeated you. If you do not like that sort of a game, stay out of it +entirely. + + + + + +XII. MORE LIONS + +Nor do the last remarks of the preceding chapter mean that you shall not +have your trophy in peace. Perhaps excitement and a slight doubt as +to whether or not you are going to survive do not appeal to you; but +nevertheless you would like a lion skin or so. By all means shoot one +lion, or two, or three in the safest fashion you can. But after that you +ought to play the game. + +The surest way to get a lion is to kill a zebra, cut holes in him, fill +the holes with strychnine, and come back next morning. This method is +absolutely safe. + +The next safest way is to follow the quarry with a pack of especially +trained dogs. The lion is so busy and nervous over those dogs that you +can walk up and shoot him in the ear. This method has the excitement of +riding and following, the joy of a grand and noisy row, and the fun of +seeing a good dog-fight. The same effect can be got chasing wart-hogs, +hyenas, jackals-or jack-rabbits. The objection is that it wastes a +noble beast in an inferior game. My personal opinion is that no man is +justified in following with dogs any large animal that can be captured +with reasonable certainty without them. The sport of coursing is another +matter; but that is quite the same in essence whatever the size of the +quarry. If you want to kill a lion or so quite safely, and at the same +time enjoy a glorious and exciting gallop with lots of accompanying row, +by all means follow the sport with hounds. But having killed one or two +by that method, quit. Do not go on and clean up the country. You can do +it. Poison and hounds are the SURE methods of finding any lion there may +be about; and AFTER THE FIRST FEW, one is about as justifiable as the +other. If you want the undoubtedly great joy of cross country pursuit, +send your hounds in after less noble game. + +The third safe method of killing a lion is nocturnal. You lay out a kill +beneath a tree, and climb the tree. Or better, you hitch out a pig or +donkey as live bait. When the lion comes to this free lunch, you try to +see him; and, if you succeed in that, you try to shoot him. It is not +easy to shoot at night; nor is it easy to see in the dark. Furthermore, +lions only occasionally bother to come to bait. You may roost up that +tree many nights before you get a chance. Once up, you have to stay up; +for it is most decidedly not safe to go home after dark. The tropical +night in the highlands is quite chilly. Branches seem to be quite as +cramping and abrasive under the equator as in the temperate zones. +Still, it is one method. + +Another is to lay out a kill and visit it in the early morning. There is +more to this, for you are afoot, must generally search out your beast +in nearby cover, and can easily find any amount of excitement in the +process. + +The fourth way is to ride the lion. The hunter sees his quarry returning +home across the plains, perhaps; or jumps it from some small bushy +ravine. At once he spurs his horse in pursuit. The lion will run but a +short distance before coming to a stop, for he is not particularly long +either of wind or of patience. From this stand he almost invariably +charges. The astute hunter, still mounted, turns and flees. When the +lion gets tired of chasing, which he does in a very short time, the +hunter faces about. At last the lion sits down in the grass, waiting for +the game to develop. This is the time for the hunter to dismount and to +take his shot. Quite likely he must now stand a charge afoot, and drop +his beast before it gets to him. + +This is real fun. It has many elements of safety, and many of danger. + +To begin with, the hunter at this game generally has companions to back +him: often he employs mounted Somalis to round the lion up and get it +to stand. The charging lion is quite apt to make for the conspicuous +mounted men-who can easily escape-ignoring the hunter afoot. As the game +is largely played in the open, the movements of the beast are easily +followed. + +On the other hand, there is room for mistake. The hunter, for example, +should never follow directly in the rear of his lion, but rather at a +parallel course off the beast's flank. Then, if the lion stops suddenly, +the man does not overrun before he can check his mount. He should never +dismount nearer than a hundred and fifty yards from the embayed +animal; and should never try to get off while the lion is moving in +his direction. Then, too, a hard gallop is not conducive to the best of +shooting. It is difficult to hold the front bead steady; and it is still +more difficult to remember to wait, once the lion charges, until he has +come near enough for a sure shot. A neglect in the inevitable excitement +of the moment to remember these and a dozen other small matters may +quite possibly cause trouble. + +Two or three men together can make this one of the most exciting mounted +games on earth; with enough of the give and take of real danger and +battle to make it worth while. The hunter, however, who employs a dozen +Somalis to ride the beast to a standstill, after which he goes to +the front, has eliminated much of the thrill. Nor need that man's +stay-at-home family feel any excessive uneasiness over Father Killing +Lions in Africa. + +The method that interested me more than any other is one exceedingly +difficult to follow except under favourable circumstances. I refer to +tracking them down afoot. This requires that your gunbearer should be +an expert trailer, for, outside the fact that following a soft-padded +animal over all sorts of ground is a very difficult thing to do, the +hunter should be free to spy ahead. It is necessary also to possess much +patience and to endure under many disappointments. But on the other +hand there is in this sport a continuous keen thrill to be enjoyed in no +other; and he who single handed tracks down and kills his lion thus, has +well earned the title of shikari-the Hunter. + +And the last method of all is to trust to the God of Chance. The secret +of success is to be always ready to take instant advantage of what the +moment offers. + +An occasional hunting story is good in itself: and the following will +also serve to illustrate what I have just been saying. + +We were after that prize, the greater kudu, and in his pursuit had +penetrated into some very rough country. Our hunting for the time being +was over broad bench, perhaps four or five miles wide, below a range +of mountains. The bench itself broke down in sheer cliffs some fifteen +hundred feet, but one did not appreciate that fact unless he stood +fairly on the edge of the precipice. To all intents and purposes we +were on a rolling grassy plain, with low hills and cliffs, and a most +beautiful little stream running down it beneath fine trees. + +Up to now our hunting had gained us little beside information: that kudu +had occasionally visited the region, that they had not been there for a +month, and that the direction of their departure had been obscure. So we +worked our way down the stream, trying out the possibilities. Of other +game there seemed to be a fair supply: impalla, hartebeeste, zebra, +eland, buffalo, wart-hog, sing-sing, and giraffe we had seen. I had +secured a wonderful eland and a very fine impalla, and we had had a +gorgeous close-quarters fight with a cheetah.* Now C. had gone out, a +three weeks' journey, carrying to medical attendance a porter injured in +the cheetah fracas. Billy and I were continuing the hunt alone. + + * This animal quite disproved the assertion that cheetahs + never assume the aggressive. He charged repeatedly. + +We had marched two hours, and were pitching camp under a single tree +near the edge of the bench. After seeing everything well under way, I +took the Springfield and crossed the stream, which here ran in a deep +canyon. My object was to see if I could get a sing-sing that had bounded +away at our approach. I did not bother to take a gunbearer, because I +did not expect to be gone five minutes. + +The canyon proved unexpectedly deep and rough, and the stream up to my +waist. When I had gained the top, I found grass growing patchily from +six inches to two feet high; and small, scrubby trees from four to ten +feet tall, spaced regularly, but very scattered. These little trees +hardly formed cover, but their aggregation at sufficient distance +limited the view. + +The sing-sing had evidently found his way over the edge of the bench. I +turned to go back to camp. A duiker-a small grass antelope-broke from a +little patch of the taller grass, rushed, head down headlong after their +fashion, suddenly changed his mind, and dashed back again. I stepped +forward to see why he had changed his mind-and ran into two lions! + +They were about thirty yards away, and sat there on their haunches, side +by side, staring at me with expressionless yellow eyes. I stared back. +The Springfield is a good little gun, and three times before I had been +forced to shoot lions with it, but my real “lion gun” with which I had +done best work was the 405 Winchester. The Springfield is too light +for such game. Also there were two lions, very close. Also I was quite +alone. + +As the game stood, it hardly looked like my move; so I held still and +waited. Presently one yawned, they looked at each other, turned quite +leisurely, and began to move away at a walk. + +This was a different matter. If I had fired while the two were facing +me, I should probably have had them both to deal with. But now that +their tails were turned toward me, I should very likely have to do with +only the one: at the crack of the rifle the other would run the way he +was headed. So I took a careful bead at the lioness and let drive. + +My aim was to cripple the pelvic bone, but, unfortunately, just as I +fired, the beast wriggled lithely sidewise to pass around a tuft of +grass, so that the bullet inflicted merely a slight flesh wound on +the rump. She whirled like a flash, and as she raised her head high to +locate me, I had time to wish that the Springfield hit a trifle harder +blow. Also I had time to throw another cartridge in the barrel. + +The moment she saw me she dropped her head and charged. She was +thoroughly angry and came very fast. I had just enough time to steady +the gold bead on her chest and to pull trigger. + +At the shot, to my great relief, she turned bottom up, and I saw her +tail for an instant above the grass-an almost sure indication of a bad +hit. She thrashed around, and made a tremendous hullabaloo of snarls and +growls. I backed out slowly, my rifle ready. It was no place for me, for +the grass was over knee high. + +Once at a safe distance I blazed a tree with my hunting knife and +departed for camp, well pleased to be out of it. At camp I ate lunch and +had a smoke; then with Memba Sasa and Mavrouki returned to the scene +of trouble. I had now the 405 Winchester, a light and handy weapon +delivering a tremendous blow. + +We found the place readily enough. My lioness had recovered from the +first shock and had gone. I was very glad I had gone first. + +The trail was not very plain, but it could be followed a foot or so at a +time, with many faults and casts back. I walked a yard to one side while +the men followed the spoor. Owing to the abundance of cover it was +very nervous work, for the beast might be almost anywhere, and would +certainly charge. We tried to keep a neutral zone around ourselves by +tossing stones ahead of and on both sides of our line of advance. My own +position was not bad, for I had the rifle ready in my hand, but the men +were in danger. Of course I was protecting them as well as I could, but +there was always a chance that the lioness might spring on them in such +a manner that I would be unable to use my weapon. Once I suggested that +as the work was dangerous, they could quit if they wanted to. + +“Hapana!” they both refused indignantly. + +We had proceeded thus for half a mile when to our relief, right ahead of +us, sounded the commanding, rumbling half-roar, half-growl of the lion +at bay. + +Instantly Memba Sasa and Mavrouki dropped back to me. We all peered +ahead. One of the boys made her out first, crouched under a bush +thirty-two yards away. Even as I raised the rifle she saw us and +charged. I caught her in the chest before she had come ten feet. The +heavy bullet stopped her dead. Then she recovered and started forward +slowly, very weak, but game to the last. Another shot finished her. + +The remarkable point of this incident was the action of the little +Springfield bullet. Evidently the very high velocity of this bullet +from its shock to the nervous system had delivered a paralyzing blow +sufficient to knock out the lioness for the time being. Its damage to +tissue, however, was slight. Inasmuch as the initial shock did not cause +immediate death, the lioness recovered sufficiently to be able, two +hours later, to take the offensive. This point is of the greatest +interest to the student of ballistics; but it is curious to even the +ordinary reader. + +That is a very typical example of finding lions by sheer chance. +Generally a man is out looking for the smallest kind of game when he +runs up against them. Now happened to follow an equally typical example +of tracking. + +The next day after the killing of the lioness Memba Sasa, Kongoni and I +dropped off the bench, and hunted greater kudu on a series of terraces +fifteen hundred feet below. All we found were two rhino, some sing-sing, +a heard of impalla, and a tremendous thirst. In the meantime, Mavrouki +had, under orders, scouted the foothills of the mountain range at the +back. He reported none but old tracks of kudu, but said he had seen +eight lions not far from our encounter of the day before. + +Therefore, as soon next morning as we could see plainly, we again +crossed the canyon and the waist-deep stream. I had with me all three of +the gun men, and in addition two of the most courageous porters to help +with the tracking and the looking. + +About eight o'clock we found the first fresh pad mark plainly outlined +in an isolated piece of soft earth. Immediately we began that most +fascinating of games-trailing over difficult ground. In this we could +all take part, for the tracks were some hours old, and the cover scanty. +Very rarely could we make out more than three successive marks. Then we +had to spy carefully for the slightest indication of direction. Kongoni +in especial was wonderful at this, and time and again picked up a broken +grass blade or the minutest inch-fraction of disturbed earth. We moved +slowly, in long hesitations and castings about, and in swift little +dashes forward of a few feet; and often we went astray on false scents, +only to return finally to the last certain spot. In this manner we +crossed the little plain with the scattered shrub trees and arrived at +the edge of the low bluff above the stream bottom. + +This bottom was well wooded along the immediate bank of the stream +itself, fringed with low thick brush, and in the open spaces grown to +the edges with high, green, coarse grass. + +As soon as we had managed to follow without fault to this grass, our +difficulties of trailing were at an end. The lions' heavy bodies +had made distinct paths through the tangle. These paths went forward +sinuously, sometimes separating one from the other, sometimes +intertwining, sometimes combining into one for a short distance. We +could not determine accurately the number of beasts that had made them. + +“They have gone to drink water,” said Memba Sasa. + +We slipped along the twisting paths, alert for indications; came to the +edge of the thicket, stooped through the fringe, and descended to the +stream under the tall trees. The soft earth at the water's edge was +covered with tracks, thickly overlaid one over the other. The boys felt +of the earth, examined, even smelled, and came to the conclusion that +the beasts must have watered about five o'clock. If so, they might be +ten miles away, or as many rods. + +We had difficulty in determining just where the party left this place, +until finally Kongoni caught sight of suspicious indications over the +way. The lions had crossed the stream. We did likewise, followed the +trail out of the thicket, into the grass, below the little cliffs +parallel to the stream, back into the thicket, across the river once +more, up the other side, in the thicket for a quarter mile, then out +into the grass on that side, and so on. They were evidently wandering, +rather idly, up the general course of the stream. Certainly, unlike most +cats, they did not mind getting their feet wet, for they crossed the +stream four times. + +At last the twining paths in the shoulder-high grass fanned out +separately. We counted. + +“You were right, Mavrouki,” said I, “there were eight.” + +At the end of each path was a beaten-down little space where evidently +the beasts had been lying down. With an exclamation the three gunbearers +darted forward to investigate. The lairs were still warm! Their +occupants had evidently made off only at our approach! + +Not five minutes later we were halted by a low warning growl right +ahead. We stopped. The boys squatted on their heels close to me, and we +consulted in whispers. + +Of course it would be sheer madness to attack eight lions in grass +so high we could not see five feet in front of us. That went without +saying. On the other hand, Mavrouki swore that he had yesterday seen no +small cubs with the band, and our examination of the tracks made in soft +earth seemed to bear him out. The chances were therefore that, unless +themselves attacked or too close pressed, the lions would not attack us. +By keeping just in their rear we might be able to urge them gently along +until they should enter more open cover. Then we could see. + +Therefore we gave the owner of that growl about five minutes to forget +it, and then advanced very cautiously. We soon found where the objector +had halted, and plainly read by the indications where he had stood for a +moment or so, and then moved on. We slipped along after. + +For five hours we hung at the heels of that band of lions, moving very +slowly, perfectly willing to halt whenever they told us to, and going +forward again only when we became convinced that they too had gone on. +Except for the first half hour, we were never more than twenty or thirty +yards from the nearest lion, and often much closer. Three or four +times I saw slowly gliding yellow bodies just ahead of me, but in the +circumstances it would have been sheer stark lunacy to have fired. +Probably six or eight times-I did not count-we were commanded to stop, +and we did stop. + +It was very exciting work, but the men never faltered. Of course I went +first, in case one of the beasts had the toothache or otherwise did +not play up to our calculations on good nature. One or the other of the +gunbearers was always just behind me. Only once was any comment made. +Kongoni looked very closely into my face. + +“There are very many lions,” he remarked doubtfully. + +“Very many lions,” I agreed, as though assenting to a mere statement of +fact. + +Although I am convinced there was no real danger, as long as we stuck to +our plan of campaign, nevertheless it was quite interesting to be for so +long a period so near these great brutes. They led us for a mile or so +along the course of the stream, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the +other. Several times they emerged into better cover, and even into the +open, but always ducked back into the thick again before we ourselves +had followed their trail to the clear. + +At noon we were halted by the usual growl just as we had reached the +edge of the river. So we sat down on the banks and had lunch. + +Finally our chance came. The trail led us, for the dozenth time, from +the high grass into the thicket along the river. We ducked our heads +to enter. Memba Sasa, next my shoulder, snapped his fingers violently. +Following the direction of the brown arm that shot over my shoulder, I +strained my eyes into the dimness of the thicket. At first I could see +nothing at all, but at length a slight motion drew my eye. Then I made +out the silhouette of a lion's head, facing us steadily. One of the +rear guard had again turned to halt us, but this time where he and his +surroundings could be seen. + +Luckily I always use a Sheard gold bead sight, and even in the dimness +of the tree-shaded thicket it showed up well. The beast was only forty +yards away, so I fired at his head. He rolled over without a sound. + +We took the usual great precautions in determining the genuineness of +his demise, then carried him into the open. Strangely enough the bullet +had gone so cleanly into his left eye that it had not even broken the +edge of the eyelid; so that when skinned he did not show a mark. He was +a very decent maned lion, three feet four inches at the shoulder, and +nine feet long as he lay. We found that he had indeed been the rear +guard, and that the rest, on the other side of the thicket, had made off +at the shot. So in spite of the APPARENT danger of the situation, our +calculations had worked out perfectly. Also we had enjoyed a half day's +sport of an intensity quite impossible to be extracted from any other +method of following the lion. + +In trying to guess how any particular lions may act, however, you will +find yourself often at fault. The lion is a very intelligent and crafty +beast, and addicted to tricks. If you follow a lion to a small hill, +it is well to go around that hill on the side opposite to that taken by +your quarry. You are quite likely to meet him for he is clever enough +thus to try to get in your rear. He will lie until you have actually +passed him before breaking off. He will circle ahead, then back to +confuse his trail. And when you catch sight of him in the distance, you +would never suspect that he knew of your presence at all. He saunters +slowly, apparently aimlessly, along pausing often, evidently too bored +to take any interest in life. You wait quite breathlessly for him to +pass behind cover. Then you are going to make a very rapid advance, and +catch his leisurely retreat. But the moment old Leo does pass behind the +cover, his appearance of idle stroller vanishes. In a dozen bounds he is +gone. + +That is what makes lion hunting delightful. There are some regions, +very near settlements, where it is perhaps justifiable to poison these +beasts. If you are a true sportsman you will confine your hound-hunting +to those districts. Elsewhere, as far as playing fair with a noble +beast is concerned, you may as well toss a coin to see which you shall +take-your pack or a strychnine bottle. + + + + + +XIII. ON THE MANAGING OF A SAFARI + +We made our way slowly down the river. As the elevation dropped, the +temperature rose. It was very hot indeed during the day, and in the +evening the air was tepid and caressing, and musical with the hum of +insects. We sat about quite comfortably in our pajamas, and took our +fifteen grains of quinine per week against the fever. + +The character of the jungle along the river changed imperceptibly, the +dhum palms crowding out the other trees; until, at our last camp, were +nothing but palms. The wind in them sounded variously like the patter +or the gathering onrush of rain. On either side the country remained +unchanged, however. The volcanic hills rolled away to the distant +ranges. Everywhere grew sparsely the low thornbrush, opening sometimes +into clear plains, closing sometimes into dense thickets. One morning +we awoke to find that many supposedly sober-minded trees had burst into +blossom fairly over night. They were red, and yellow and white that +before were green, a truly gorgeous sight. + +Then we turned sharp to the right and began to ascend a little tributary +brook coming down the wide flats from a cleft in the hills. This was +prettily named the Isiola, and, after the first mile or so, was not +big enough to afford the luxury of a jungle of its own. Its banks were +generally grassy and steep, its thickets few, and its little trees +isolated in parklike spaces. To either side of it, and almost at its +level, stretched plains, but plains grown with scattered brush and +shrubs so that at a mile or two one's vista was closed. But for all its +scant ten feet of width the Isiola stood upon its dignity as a stream. +We discovered that when we tried to cross. The men floundered waist-deep +on uncertain bottom; the syces received much unsympathetic comment +for their handling of the animals, and we had to get Billy over by a +melodramatic “bridge of life” with B., F., myself, and Memba Sasa in the +title roles. + +Then we pitched camp in the open on the other side, sent the horses back +from the stream until after dark, in fear of the deadly tsetse fly, and +prepared to enjoy a good exploration of the neighbourhood. Whereupon +M'ganga rose up to his gaunt and terrific height of authority, stretched +forth his bony arm at right angles, and uttered between eight and nine +thousand commands in a high dynamic monotone without a single pause for +breath. These, supplemented by about as many more, resulted in (a) a +bridge across the stream, and (b) a banda. + +A banda is a delightful African institution. It springs from nothing in +about two hours, but it takes twenty boys with a vitriolic M'ganga back +of them to bring it about. Some of them carry huge backloads of grass, +or papyrus, or cat-tail rushes, as the case may be; others lug in poles +of various lengths from where their comrades are cutting them by means +of their panga. A panga, parenthetically, is the safari man's substitute +for axe, shovel, pick, knife, sickle, lawn-mower, hammer, gatling +gun, world's library of classics, higher mathematics, grand opera, and +toothpicks. It looks rather like a machete with a very broad end and +a slight curved back. A good man can do extraordinary things with +it. Indeed, at this moment, two boys are with this apparently clumsy +implement delicately peeling some of the small thorn trees, from the +bared trunks of which they are stripping long bands of tough inner bark. + +With these three raw materials-poles, withes, and grass-M'ganga and +his men set to work. They planted their corner and end poles, they laid +their rafters, they completed their framework, binding all with the +tough withes; then deftly they thatched it with the grass. Almost before +we had settled our own affairs, M'ganga was standing before us smiling. +Gone now was his mien of high indignation and swirling energy. + +“Banda naquisha,” he informed us. + +And we moved in our table and our canvas chairs; hung up our water +bottles; Billy got out her fancy work. Nothing could be pleasanter +nor more appropriate to the climate than this wide low arbour, open at +either end to the breezes, thatched so thickly that the fierce sun could +nowhere strike through. + +The men had now settled down to a knowledge of what we were like; and +things were going smoothly. At first the African porter will try it on +to see just how easy you are likely to prove. If he makes up his mind +that you really are easy, then you are in for infinite petty annoyance, +and possibly open mutiny. Therefore, for a little while, it is necessary +to be extremely vigilant, to insist on minute performance in all +circumstances where later you might condone an omission. For the same +reason punishment must be more frequent and more severe at the outset. +It is all a matter of watching the temper of the men. If they are +cheerful and willing, you are not nearly as particular as you would +be were their spirit becoming sullen. Then the infraction is not so +important in itself as an excuse for the punishment. For when your men +get sulky, you watch vigilantly for the first and faintest EXCUSE to +inflict punishment. + +This game always seemed to me very fascinating, when played right. It is +often played wrong. People do not look far enough. Because they see +that punishment has a most salutary effect on morale, and is sometimes +efficacious in getting things done that otherwise would lag, they jump +to the conclusion that the only effective way to handle a safari is +by penalties. By this I do not at all mean that they act savagely, or +punish to brutal excess. Merely they hold rigidly to the letter of the +work and the day's discipline. Because it is sometimes necessary +to punish severely slight infractions when the men's tempers need +sweetening, they ALWAYS punish slight infractions severely. + +And in ordinary circumstances this method undoubtedly results in a very +efficient safari. Things are done smartly, on time, with a snap. The +day's march begins without delay; there is a minimum of straggling; on +arrival the tents are immediately got up and the wood and water fetched. +But in a tight place, men so handled by invariable rule are very apt +to sit down apathetically, and put the whole thing up to the white man. +When it comes time to help out they are not there. The contrast with a +well-disposed safari cannot be appreciated by one who has not seen both. + +The safari-man loves a master. He does not for a moment understand any +well-meant but misplaced efforts on your part to lighten his work below +the requirements of custom. Always he will beg you to ease up on him, +to accord him favour; and always he will despise you if you yield. The +relations of man to man, of man to work, are all long since established +by immemorial distauri-custom-and it is not for you or him to change +them lightly. If you know what he should or can do, and hold him rigidly +to it, he will respect and follow you. + +But in order to keep him up to the mark, it is not always advisable to +light into him with a whip, necessary as the whip often is. If he +is sullen, or inclined to make mischief, then that is the crying +requirement. But if he is merely careless, or a little slow, or tired, +you can handle him in other ways. Ridicule before his comrades is very +effective: a sort of good-natured guying, I mean. “Ah! very tired!” + uttered in the right tone of voice has brought many a loiterer to his +feet as effectively as the kick some men feel must always be bestowed, +and quite without anger, mind you! For days at a time we have kept our +men travelling at good speed by commenting, as though by the way, after +we had arrived in camp, on which tribe happened to come in at the head. + +“Ah! Kavirondos came in first to-night,” we would remark. “Last night +the Monumwezis were ahead.” + +And once, actually, by this method we succeeded in working up such a +feeling of rivalry that the Kikuyus, the unambitious, weak and despised +Kikuyus, led the van! + +But the first hint of insubordination, of intended insolence, of willful +shirking must be met by instant authority. Occasionally, when the +situation is of the quick and sharp variety, the white man may have to +mix in the row himself. He must never hesitate an instant; for the only +reason he alone can control so many is that he has always controlled +them. F. had a very effective blow, or shove, which I found well worth +adopting. It is delivered with the heel of the palm to the man's chin, +and is more of a lifting, heaving shove than an actual blow. Its effect +is immediately upsetting. Impertinence is best dealt with in this manner +on the spot. Evidently intended slowness in coming when called is also +best treated by a flick of the whip-and forgetfulness. And so with a +half dozen others. But any more serious matter should be decided from +the throne of the canvas chair, witness should be heard, judgment +formally pronounced, and execution intrusted to the askaris or +gunbearers. + +It is, as I have said, a most interesting game. It demands three sorts +of knowledge: first what a safari man is capable of doing; second, what +he customarily should or should not do; third, an ability to read the +actual intention or motive back of his actions. When you are able to +punish or hold your hand on these principles, and not merely because +things have or have not gone smoothly or right, then you are a good +safari manager. There are mighty few of them. + +As for punishment, that is quite simply the whip. The average writer +on the country speaks of this with hushed voice and averted face as a +necessity but as something to be deprecated and passed over as quickly +as possible. He does this because he thinks he ought to. As a matter of +fact, such an attitude is all poppycock. In the flogging of a white man, +or a black who suffers from such a punishment in his soul as well as his +body, this is all very well. But the safari man expects it, it +doesn't hurt his feelings in the least, it is ancient custom. As well +sentimentalize over necessary schoolboy punishment, or over father +paddy-whacking little Willie when little Willie has been a bad boy. The +chances are your porter will leap to his feet, crack his heels together +and depart with a whoop of joy, grinning from ear to ear. Or he may draw +himself up and salute you, military fashion, again with a grin. In any +case his “soul” is not “scared” a little bit, and there is no sense in +yourself feeling about it as though it were. + +At another slant the justice you will dispense to your men differs from +our own. Again this is because of the teaching long tradition has made +part of their mental make-up. Our own belief is that it is better to let +two guilty men go than to punish one innocent. With natives it is the +other way about. If a crime is committed the guilty MUST be punished. +Preferably he alone is to be dealt with; but in case it is impossible to +identify him, then all the members of the first inclusive unit must be +brought to account. This is the native way of doing things; is the only +way the native understands; and is the only way that in his mind true +justice is answered. Thus if a sheep is stolen, the thief must be caught +and punished. Suppose, however it is known to what family the thief +belongs, but the family refuses to disclose which of its members +committed the theft: then each member must be punished for sheep +stealing; or, if not the family, then the tribe must make restitution. +But punishment MUST be inflicted. + +There is an essential justice to recommend this, outside the fact that +it has with the native all the solidity of accepted ethics, and +it certainly helps to run the real criminal to earth. The innocent +sometimes suffers innocently, but not very often; and our own records +show that in that respect with us it is the same. This is not the place +to argue the right or wrong of the matter from our own standpoint but to +recognize the fact that it is right from theirs, and to act accordingly. +Thus in cast of theft of meat, or something that cannot be traced, it +is well to call up the witnesses, to prove the alibis, and then to place +the issue squarely up to those that remain. There may be but two, or +there may be a dozen. + +“I know you did not all steal the meat,” you must say, “but I know that +one of you did. Unless I know which one that is by to-morrow morning, I +will kiboko all of you. Bass!” + +Perhaps occasionally you may have to kiboko the lot, in the full +knowledge that most are innocent. That seems hard; and your heart will +misgive you. Harden it. The “innocent” probably know perfectly well who +the guilty man is. And the incident builds for the future. + +I had intended nowhere to comment on the politics or policies of the +country. Nothing is more silly than the casual visitor's snap judgments +on how a country is run. Nevertheless, I may perhaps be pardoned for +suggesting that the Government would strengthen its hand, and aid its +few straggling settlers by adopting this native view of retributions. +For instance, at present it is absolutely impossible to identify +individual sheep and cattle stealers. They operate stealthily and at +night. If the Government cannot identify the actual thief, it gives the +matter up. As a consequence a great hardship is inflicted on the settler +and an evil increases. If, however, the Government would hold the +village, the district, or the tribe responsible, and exact just +compensation from such units in every case, the evil would very suddenly +come to an end. And the native's respect for the white man would climb +in the scale. + +Once the safari man gets confidence in his master, that confidence is +complete. The white man's duties are in his mind clearly defined. His +job is to see that the black man is fed, is watered, is taken care of +in every way. The ordinary porter considers himself quite devoid of +responsibility. He is also an improvident creature, for he drinks all +his water when he gets thirsty, no matter how long and hot the journey +before him; he eats his rations all up when he happens to get hungry, +two days before next distribution time; he straggles outrageously at +times and has to be rounded up; he works three months and, on a whim, +deserts two days before the end of his journey, thus forfeiting all his +wages. Once two porters came to us for money. + +“What for?” asked C. + +“To buy a sheep,” said they. + +For two months we had been shooting them all the game meat they could +eat, but on this occasion two days had intervened since the last kill. +If they had been on trading safari they would have had no meat at all. +A sheep cost six rupees in that country, and they were getting but ten +rupees a month as wages. In view of the circumstances, and for their +own good, we refused. Another man once insisted on purchasing a cake +of violet-scented soap for a rupee. Their chief idea of a wild time in +Nairobi, after return from a long safari, is to SIT IN A CHAIR and drink +tea. For this they pay exorbitantly at the Somali so-called “hotels.” + It is a strange sight. But then, I have seen cowboys off the range or +lumberjacks from the river do equally extravagant and foolish things. + +On the other hand they carry their loads well, they march tremendously, +they know their camp duties and they do them. Under adverse +circumstances they are good-natured. I remember C. and I, being belated +and lost in a driving rain. We wandered until nearly midnight. The four +or five men with us were loaded heavily with the meat and trophy of a +roan. Certainly they must have been very tired; for only occasionally +could we permit them to lay down their loads. Most of the time we were +actually groping, over boulders, volcanic rocks, fallen trees and all +sorts of tribulation. The men took it as a huge joke, and at every pause +laughed consumedly. + +In making up a safari one tries to mix in four or five tribes. This +prevents concerted action in case of trouble, for no one tribe will help +another. They vary both in tribal and individual characteristics, of +course. For example, the Kikuyus are docile but mediocre porters; the +Kavirondos strong carriers but turbulent and difficult to handle. You +are very lucky if you happen on a camp jester, one of the sort that +sings, shouts, or jokes while on the march. He is probably not much as a +porter, but he is worth his wages nevertheless. He may or may not aspire +to his giddy eminence. We had one droll-faced little Kavirondo whose +very expression made one laugh, and whose rueful remarks on the +harshness of his lot finally ended by being funny. His name got to be a +catchword in camp. + +“Mualo! Mualo!” the men would cry, as they heaved their burdens to their +heads; and all day long their war cry would ring out, “Mualo!” followed +by shrieks of laughter. + +Of the other type was Sulimani, a big, one-eyed Monumwezi, who had a +really keen wit coupled with an earnest, solemn manner. This man was no +buffoon, however; and he was a good porter, always at or near the head +of the procession. In the great jungle south of Kenia we came upon +Cuninghame. When the head of our safari reached the spot Sulimani +left the ranks and, his load still aloft danced solemnly in front of +Cuninghame, chanting something in a loud tone of voice. Then with a +final deep “Jambo!” to his old master he rejoined the safari. When +the day had stretched to weariness and the men had fallen to a sullen +plodding, Sulimani's vigorous song could always set the safari sticks +tapping the sides of the chop boxes. + +He carried part of the tent, and the next best men were entrusted with +the cook outfit and our personal effects. It was a point of honour +with these men to be the first in camp. The rear, the very extreme +and straggling rear, was brought up by worthless porters with loads of +cornmeal-and the weary askaris whose duty it was to keep astern and herd +the lot in. + + + + + +XIV. A DAY ON THE ISIOLA + +Early one morning-we were still on the Isiola-we set forth on our horses +to ride across the rolling, brush-grown plain. Our intention was to +proceed at right angles to our own little stream until we had reached +the forest growth of another, which we could dimly make out eight or +ten miles distant. Billy went with us, so there were four a-horseback. +Behind us trudged the gunbearers, and the syces, and after them +straggled a dozen or fifteen porters. + +The sun was just up, and the air was only tepid as yet. From patches of +high grass whirred and rocketed grouse of two sorts. They were so much +like our own ruffed grouse and prairie chicken that I could with no +effort imagine myself once more a boy in the coverts of the Middle West. +Only before us we could see the stripes of trotting zebra disappearing; +and catch the glint of light on the bayonets of the oryx. Two giraffes +galumphed away to the right. Little grass antelope darted from clump +to clump of grass. Once we saw gerenuk-oh, far away in an impossible +distance. Of course we tried to stalk them; and as usual we failed. The +gerenuk we had come to look upon as our Lesser Hoodoo. + +The beast is a gazelle about as big as a black-tailed deer. His +peculiarity is his excessively long neck, a good deal on the giraffe +order. With it he crops browse above high tide mark of other animals, +especially when as often happens he balances cleverly on his hind legs. +By means of it also he can, with his body completely concealed, look +over the top of ordinary cover and see you long before you have made +out his inconspicuous little head. Then he departs. He seems to have +a lamentable lack of healthy curiosity about you. In that respect he +should take lessons from the kongoni. After that you can follow him as +far as you please; you will get only glimpses at three or four hundred +yards. + +We remounted sadly and rode on. The surface of the ground was rather +soft, scattered with round rocks the size of a man's head, and full of +pig holes. + +“Cheerful country to ride over at speed,” remarked Billy. Later in the +day we had occasion to remember that statement. + +The plains led us ever on. First would be a band of scattered brush +growing singly and in small clumps: then a little open prairie; then +a narrow, long grass swale; then perhaps a low, long hill with small +single trees and rough, volcanic footing. Ten thousand things kept us +interested. Game was everywhere, feeding singly, in groups, in herds, +game of all sizes and descriptions. The rounded ears of jackals pointed +at us from the grass. Hundreds of birds balanced or fluttered about us, +birds of all sizes from the big ground hornbill to the littlest hummers +and sun birds. Overhead, across the wonderful variegated sky of Africa +the broad-winged carrion hunters and birds of prey wheeled. In all our +stay on the Isiola we had not seen a single rhino track, so we rode +quite care free and happy. + +Finally, across a glade, not over a hundred and fifty yards away, we +saw a solitary bull oryx standing under a bush. B. wanted an oryx. We +discussed this one idly. He looked to be a decent oryx, but nothing +especial. However, he offered a very good shot; so B., after some +hesitation, decided to take it. It proved to be by far the best specimen +we shot, the horns measuring thirty-six and three fourths inches! Almost +immediately after, two of the rather rare striped hyenas leaped from the +grass and departed rapidly over the top of a hill. We opened fire, and +F. dropped one of them. By the time these trophies were prepared, the +sun had mounted high in the heavens, and it was getting hot. + +Accordingly we abandoned that still distant river and swung away in a +wide circle to return to camp. + +Several minor adventures brought us to high noon and the heat of the +day. B. had succeeded in drawing a prize, one of the Grevy's or mountain +zebra. He and the gunbearers engaged themselves with that, while we sat +under the rather scanty shade of a small thorn tree and had lunch. +Here we had a favourable chance to observe that very common, but always +wonderful phenomenon, the gathering of the carrion birds. Within five +minutes after the stoop of the first vulture above the carcass, the sky +immediately over that one spot was fairly darkened with them. They were +as thick as midges-or as ducks used to be in California. All sizes were +there from the little carrion crows to the great dignified vultures and +marabouts and eagles. The small fry flopped and scolded, and rose and +fell in a dense mass; the marabouts walked with dignified pace to and +fro through the grass all about. As far as the eye could penetrate the +blue, it could make out more and yet more of the great soarers stooping +with half bent wings. Below we could see uncertainly through the shimmer +of the mirage the bent forms of the men. + +We ate and waited; and after a little we dozed. I was awakened suddenly +by a tremendous rushing roar, like the sound of a not too distant +waterfall. The group of men were plodding toward us carrying burdens. +And like plummets the birds were dropping straight down from the +heavens, spreading wide their wings at the last moment to check their +speed. This made the roaring sound that had awakened me. + +A wide spot in the shimmer showed black and struggling against the +ground. I arose and walked over, meeting halfway B. and the men carrying +the meat. It took me probably about two minutes to reach the place where +the zebra had been killed. Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of the great +birds were standing idly about; a dozen or so were flapping and +scrambling in the centre. I stepped into view. With a mighty commotion +they all took wing clumsily, awkwardly, reluctantly. A trampled, bloody +space and the larger bones, picked absolutely clean, was all that +remained! In less than two minutes the job had been done! + +“You're certainly good workmen!” I exclaimed, “but I wonder how you all +make a living!” + +We started the men on to camp with the meat, and ourselves rested +under the shade. The day had been a full and interesting one; but we +considered it as finished. Remained only the hot journey back to camp. + +After a half hour we mounted again and rode on slowly. The sun was very +strong and a heavy shimmer clothed the plain. Through this shimmer we +caught sight of something large and black and flapping. It looked like a +crow-or, better, a scare-crow-crippled, half flying, half running, with +waving wings or arms, now dwindling, now gigantic as the mirage caught +it up or let it drop. As we watched, it developed, and we made it out +to be a porter, clad in a long, ragged black overcoat, running zigzag +through the bushes in our direction. + +The moment we identified it we spurred our horses forward. As my horse +leaped, Memba Sasa snatched the Springfield from my left hand and forced +the 405 Winchester upon me. Clever Memba Sasa! He no more than we knew +what was up, but shrewdly concluded that whatever it was it needed a +heavy gun. + +As we galloped to meet him, the porter stopped. We saw him to be a very +long-legged, raggedy youth whom we had nicknamed the Marabout because of +his exceedingly long, lean legs, the fact that his breeches were white, +short and baggy, and because he kept his entire head shaved close. He +called himself Fundi, which means The Expert, a sufficient indication of +his confidence in himself. + +He awaited us leaning on his safari stick, panting heavily, the sweat +running off his face in splashes. “Simba!”* said he, and immediately +set off on a long, easy lope ahead of us. We pulled down to a trot and +followed him. + + * Lion + +At the end of a half mile we made out a man up a tree. Fundi, out of +breath, stopped short and pointed to this man. The latter, as soon as he +had seen us, commenced to scramble down. We spurred forward to find out +where the lions had been last seen. + +Then Billy covered herself with glory by seeing them first. She apprised +us of that fact with some excitement. We saw the long, yellow bodies of +two of them disappearing in the edge of the brush about three hundred +yards away. With a wild whoop we tore after them at a dead run. + +Then began a wild ride. Do you remember Billy's remark about the nature +of the footing? Before long we closed in near enough to catch occasional +glimpses of the beasts, bounding easily along. At that moment B.'s horse +went down in a heap. None of us thought for a moment of pulling up. I +looked back to see B. getting up again, and thought I caught fragments +of encouraging-sounding language. Then my horse went down. I managed to +hold my rifle clear, and to cling to the reins. Did you ever try to +get on a somewhat demoralized horse in a frantic hurry, when all your +friends were getting farther away every minute, and so lessening your +chances of being in the fun? I began to understand perfectly B.'s +remarks of a moment before. However, on I scrambled, and soon overtook +the hunt. + +We dodged in and out of bushes, and around and over holes. Every few +moments we would catch a glimpse of one of those silently bounding +lions, and then we would let out a yell. Also every few moments one +or the other of us would go down in a heap, and would scramble up and +curse, and remount hastily. Billy had better luck. She had no gun, and +belonged a little in the rear anyway, but was coming along game as a +badger for all that. + +My own horse had the legs of the others quite easily, and for that +reason I was ahead far enough to see the magnificent sight of five lions +sideways on, all in a row, standing in the grass gazing at me with a +sort of calm and impersonal dignity. I wheeled my horse immediately so +as to be ready in case of a charge, and yelled to the others to hurry +up. While I sat there, they moved slowly off one after the other, so +that by the time the men had come, the lions had gone. We now had +no difficulty in running into them again. Once more my better animal +brought me to the lead, so that for the second time I drew up facing the +lions, and at about one hundred yards range. One by one they began to +leave as before, very leisurely and haughtily, until a single old maned +fellow remained. He, however, sat there, his great round head peering +over the top of the grass. + +“Well,” he seemed to say, “here I am, what do you intend to do about +it?” + +The others arrived, and we all dismounted. B. had not yet killed his +lion, so the shot was his. Billy very coolly came up behind and held +his horse. I should like here to remark that Billy is very terrified of +spiders. F. and I stood at the ready, and B. sat down. + +Riding fast an exciting mile or so, getting chucked on your head two or +three times, and facing your first lion are none of them conducive to +steady shooting. The first shot therefore went high, but the second hit +the lion square in the chest, and he rolled over dead. + +We all danced a little war dance, and congratulated B. and turned to get +the meaning of a queer little gurgling gasp behind us. There was Fundi! +That long-legged scarecrow, not content with running to get us and then +back again, had trailed us the whole distance of our mad chase over +broken ground at terrific speed in order to be in at the death. And he +was just about all in at the death. He could barely gasp his breath, his +eyes stuck out; he looked close to apoplexy. + +“Bwana! bwana!” was all he could say. “Master! master!” + +We shook hands with Fundi. + +“My son,” said I, “you're a true sport, and you'll surely get yours +later.” + +He did not understand me, but he grinned. The gunbearers began to drift +in, also completely pumped. They set up a feeble shout when they saw +the dead lion. It was a good maned beast, three feet six inches at the +shoulder, and nine feet long. + +We left Fundi with the lion, instructing him to stay there until some +of the other men came up. We remounted and pushed on slowly in hopes of +coming on one of the others. + +Here and there we rode, our courses interweaving, looking eagerly. And +lo! through a tiny opening in the brush we espied one of those elusive +gerenuk standing not over one hundred yards away. Whereupon I dismounted +and did some of the worst shooting I perpetrated in Africa, for I let +loose three times at him before I landed. But land I did, and there was +one Lesser Hoodoo broken. Truly this was our day. + +We measured him and started to prepare the trophy, when to us came +Mavrouki and a porter, quite out of breath, but able to tell us that +they had been scouting around and had seen two of the lions. Then, +instead of leaving one up a tree to watch, both had come pell-mell to +tell us all about it. We pointed this out to them, and called their +attention to the fact that the brush was wide, that lions are not +stationary objects, and that, unlike the leopard, they can change their +spots quite readily. However, we remounted and went to take a look. + +Of course there was nothing. So we rode on, rather aimlessly, weaving +in and out of the bushes and open spaces. I think we were all a little +tired from the long day and the excitement, and hence a bit listless. +Suddenly we were fairly shaken out of our saddles by an angry roar just +ahead. Usually a lion growls, low and thunderous, when he wants, to +warn you that you have gone about far enough; but this one was angry all +through at being followed about so much, and he just plain yelled at us. + +He crouched near a bush forty yards away, and was switching his tail. I +had heard that this was a sure premonition of an instant charge, but I +had not before realized exactly what “switching the tail” meant. I had +thought of it as a slow sweeping from side to side, after the manner +of the domestic cat. This lion's tail was whirling perpendicularly from +right to left, and from left to right with the speed and energy of a +flail actuated by a particularly instantaneous kind of machinery. I +could see only the outline of the head and this vigorous tail; but I +took instant aim and let drive. The whole affair sank out of sight. + +We made a detour around the dead lion without stopping to examine him, +shouting to one of the men to stay and watch the carcass. Billy alone +seemed uninfected with the now prevalent idea that we were likely to +find lions almost anywhere. Her skepticism was justified. We found no +more lions; but another miracle took place for all that. We ran across +the second imbecile gerenuk, and B. collected it! These two were +the only ones we ever got within decent shot of, and they sandwiched +themselves neatly with lions. Truly, it WAS our day. + +After a time we gave it up, and went back to measure and photograph our +latest prize. It proved to be a male, maneless, two inches shorter than +that killed by B., and three feet five and one half inches tall at the +shoulder. My bullet had reached the brain just over the left eye. + +Now, toward sunset, we headed definitely toward camp. The long shadows +and beautiful lights of evening were falling across the hills far the +other side the Isiola. A little breeze with a touch of coolness breathed +down from distant unseen Kenia. We plodded on through the grass quite +happily, noting the different animals coming out to the cool of the +evening. The line of brush that marked the course of the Isiola came +imperceptibly nearer until we could make out the white gleam of the +porters' tents and wisps of smoke curling upward. + +Then a small black mass disengaged itself from the camp and came slowly +across the prairie in our direction. As it approached we made it out +to be our Monumwezis, twenty strong. The news of the lions had reached +them, and they were coming to meet us. They were huddled in a close +knot, their heads inclined toward the centre. Each man carried upright +a peeled white wand. They moved in absolute unison and rhythm, on a +slanting zigzag in our direction: first three steps to the right, then +three to the left, with a strong stamp of the foot between. Their bodies +swayed together. Sulimani led them, dancing backward, his wand upheld. + +“Sheeka!” he enunciated in a piercing half whistle. + +And the swaying men responded in chorus, half hushed, rumbling, with +strong aspiration. + +“Goom zoop! goom zoop!” + +When fifty yards from us, however, the formation broke and they rushed +us with a yell. Our horses plunged in astonishment, and we had hard work +to prevent their bolting, small blame to 'em! The men surrounded us, +shaking our hands frantically. At once they appropriated everything we +or our gunbearers carried. One who got left otherwise insisted on having +Billy's parasol. Then we all broke for camp at full speed, yelling like +fiends, firing our revolvers in the air. It was a grand entry, and a +grand reception. The rest of the camp poured out with wild shouts. The +dark forms thronged about us, teeth flashing, arms waving. And in the +background, under the shadows of the trees were the Monumwezis, their +formation regained, close gathered, heads bent, two steps swaying to +the right-stamp! two steps swaying to the left-stamp!-the white wands +gleaming, and the rumble of their lion song rolling in an undertone: + +“Goom zoop! goom zoop!” + + + + + +XV. THE LION DANCE + +We took our hot baths and sat down to supper most gratefully, for we +were tired. The long string of men, bearing each a log of wood, filed in +from the darkness to add to our pile of fuel. Saa-sita and Shamba knelt +and built the night fire. In a moment the little flame licked up through +the carefully arranged structure. We finished the meal, and the boys +whisked away the table. + +Then out in the blackness beyond our little globe of light we became +aware of a dull confusion, a rustling to and fro. Through the shadows +the eye could guess at movement. The confusion steadied to a kind of +rhythm, and into the circle of the fire came the group of Monumwezis. +Again they were gathered together in a compact little mass; but now they +were bent nearly double, and were stripped to the red blankets about +their waists. Before them writhed Sulimani, close to earth, darting +irregularly now to right, now to left, wriggling, spreading his arms +abroad. He was repeating over and over two phrases; or rather the same +phrase in two such different intonations that they seemed to convey +quite separate meanings. + +“Ka soompeele?” he cried with a strongly appealing interrogation. + +“Ka soompeele!” he repeated with the downward inflection of decided +affirmation. + +And the bent men, their dark bodies gleaming in the firelight, stamping +in rhythm every third step, chorused in a deep rumbling bass: + +“Goom zoop! goom zoop!” + +Thus they advanced; circled between us and the fire, and withdrew to the +half darkness, where tirelessly they continued the same reiterations. + +Hardly had they withdrawn when another group danced forward in their +places. These were the Kikuyus. They had discarded completely their +safari clothes, and now came forth dressed out in skins, in strips of +white cloth, with feathers, shells and various ornaments. They carried +white wands to represent spears, and they sang their tribal lion song. +A soloist delivered the main argument in a high wavering minor and was +followed by a deep rumbling emphatic chorus of repetition, strongly +accented so that the sheer rhythm of it was most pronounced: + +“An-gee a Ka ga An-gee a Ka ga An-gee a Ka ga Ki ya Ka ga Ka ga an gee +ya!” + +Solemnly and loftily, their eyes fixed straight before them they made +the circle of the fire, passed before our chairs, and withdrew to the +half light. There, a few paces from the stamping, crouching Monumwezis, +they continued their performance. + +The next to appear were the Wakambas. These were more histrionic. They +too were unrecognizable as our porters, for they too had for the lion +discarded their work-a-day garments in favour of savage. They produced a +pantomime of the day's doings, very realistic indeed, ending with a half +dozen of dark swaying bodies swinging and shuddering in the long grass +as lions, while the “horses” wove in and out among the crouching forms, +all done to the beat of rhythm. Past us swept the hunt, and in its turn +melted into the half light. + +The Kavirondos next appeared, the most fantastically caparisoned of the +lot, fine big black men, their eyes rolling with excitement. They had +captured our flag from its place before the big tent, and were rallied +close about this, dancing fantastically. Before us they leaped and +stamped and shook their spears and shouted out their full-voiced song, +while the other three tribes danced each its specialty dimly in the +background. + +The dance thus begun lasted for fully two hours. Each tribe took a +turn before us, only to give way to the next. We had leisure to notice +minutiae, such as the ingenious tail one of the “lions” had constructed +from a sweater. As time went on, the men worked themselves to a frenzy. +From the serried ranks every once in a while one would break forth with +a shriek to rush headlong into the fire, to beat the earth about him +with his club, to rush over to shake one of us violently by the hand, +or even to seize one of our feet between his two palms. Then with equal +abruptness back he darted to regain his place among the dancers. Wilder +and wilder became the movements, higher rose the voices. The mock lion +hunt grew more realistic, and the slaughter on both sides something +tremendous. Lower and lower crouched the Monumwezi, drawing apart with +their deep “goom”; drawing suddenly to a common centre with the sharp +“zoop!” Only the Kikuyus held their lofty bearing as they rolled forth +their chant, but the mounting excitement showed in their tense muscles +and the rolling of their eyes. The sweat glistened on naked black and +bronze bodies. Among the Monumwezi to my astonishment I saw Memba Sasa, +stripped like the rest, and dancing with all abandon. The firelight +leaped high among the logs that eager hands cast on it; and the shadows +it threw from the swirling, leaping figures wavered out into a great, +calm darkness. + +The night guard understood a little of the native languages, so he stood +behind our chairs and told us in Swahili the meaning of some of the +repeated phrases. + +“This has been a glorious day; few safaris have had so glorious a day.” + +“The masters looked upon the fierce lions and did not run away.” + +“Brave men without other weapons will nevertheless kill with a knife.” + +“The masters' mothers must be brave women, the masters are so brave.” + +“The white woman went hunting, and so were many lions killed.” + +The last one pleased Billy. She felt that at last she was appreciated. + +We sat there spellbound by the weird savagery of the spectacle-the great +licking fire, the dancing, barbaric figures, the rise and fall of the +rhythm, the dust and shuffle, the ebb and flow of the dance, the dim, +half-guessed groups swaying in the darkness-and overhead the calm tropic +night. + +At last, fairly exhausted, they stopped. Some one gave a signal. The men +all gathered in one group, uttered a final yell, very like a cheer, and +dispersed. + +We called up the heroes of the day-Fundi and his companion-and made a +little speech, and bestowed appropriate reward. Then we turned in. + + + + + +XVI. FUNDI + +Fundi, as I have suggested, was built very much on the lines of the +marabout stork. He was about twenty years old, carried himself very +erect, and looked one straight in the eye. His total assets when he came +to us were a pair of raggedy white breeches, very baggy, and an old mesh +undershirt, ditto ditto. To this we added a jersey, a red blanket, and a +water bottle. At the first opportunity he constructed himself a pair of +rawhide sandals. + +Throughout the first part of the trip he had applied himself to business +and carried his load. He never made trouble. Then he and his companion +saw five lions; and the chance Fundi had evidently long been awaiting +came to his hand. He ran himself almost into coma, exhibited himself +game, and so fell under our especial and distinguished notice. After +participating whole-heartedly in the lion dance he and his companion +were singled out for Our Distinguished Favour, to the extent of five +rupees per. Thus far Fundi's history reads just like the history of any +ordinary Captain of Industry. + +Next morning, after the interesting ceremony of rewarding the worthy, we +moved on to a new camp. When the line-up was called for, lo! there stood +Fundi, without a load, but holding firmly my double-barrelled rifle. +Evidently he had seized the chance of favour-and the rifle-and intended +to be no longer a porter but a second gunbearer. + +This looked interesting, so we said nothing. Fundi marched the day +through very proudly. At evening he deposited the rifle in the proper +place, and set to work with a will at raising the big tent. + +The day following he tried it again. It worked. The third day he marched +deliberately up past the syce to take his place near me. And the fourth +day, as we were going hunting, Fundi calmly fell in with the rest. +Nothing had been said, but Fundi had definitely grasped his chance to +rise from the ranks. In this he differed from his companion in glory. +That worthy citizen pocketed his five rupees and was never heard from +again; I do not even remember his name nor how he looked. + +I killed a buck of some sort, and Memba Sasa, as usual, stepped forward +to attend to the trophy. But I stopped him. + +“Fundi,” said I, “if you are a gunbearer, prepare this beast.” + +He stepped up confidently and set to work. I watched him closely. He +did it very well, without awkwardness, though he made one or two minor +mistakes in method. + +“Have you done this before?” I inquired. + +“No, bwana.” + +“How did you learn to do it?” + +“I have watched the gunbearers when I was a porter bringing in meat.” * + + * Except in the greatest emergencies a gunbearer would never + think of carrying any sort of a burden. + +This was pleasing, but it would never do, at this stage of the game, +to let him think so, neither on his own account nor that of the real +gunbearers. + +“You will bring in meat today also,” said I, for I was indeed a +little shorthanded, “and you will learn how to make the top incision +straighter.” + +When we had reached camp I handed him the Springfield. + +“Clean this,” I told him. + +He departed with it, returning it after a time for my inspection. It +looked all right. I catechized him on the method he had employed-for +high velocities require very especial treatment-and found him letter +perfect. + +“You learned this also by watching?” + +“Yes, bwana, I watched the gunbearers by the fire, evenings.” + +Evidently Fundi had been preparing for his chance. + +Next day, as he walked alongside, I noticed that he had not removed the +leather cap, or sight protector, that covers the end of the rifle and is +fastened on by a leather thong. Immediately I called a halt. + +“Fundi,” said I, “do you know that the cover should be in your pocket? +Suppose a rhinoceros jumps up very near at hand: how can you get time to +unlace the thong and hand me the rifle?” + +He thrust the rifle at me suddenly. In some magical fashion the sight +cover had disappeared! + +“I have thought of this,” said he, “and I have tied the thong, so, in +order that it come away with one pull; and I snatch it off, so, with my +left hand while I am giving you the gun with my right hand. It seemed +good to keep the cover on, for there are many branches, and the sight is +very easy to injure.” + +Of course this was good sense, and most ingenious; Fundi bade fair to be +quite a boy, but the native African is very easily spoiled. Therefore, +although my inclination was strongly to praise him, I did nothing of the +sort. + +“A gunbearer carries the gun away from the branches,” was my only +comment. + +Shortly after occurred an incident by way of deeper test. We were all +riding rather idly along the easy slope below the foothills. The grass +was short, so we thought we could see easily everything there was to +be seen; but, as we passed some thirty yards from a small tree, an +unexpected and unnecessary rhinoceros rose from an equally unexpected +and unnecessary green hollow beneath the tree, and charged us. He made +straight for Billy. Her mule, panic-stricken, froze with terror in spite +of Billy's attack with a parasol. I spurred my own animal between her +and the charging brute, with some vague idea of slipping off the other +side as the rhino struck. F. and B. leaped from their own animals, and +F., with a little.28 calibre rifle, took a hasty shot at the big brute. +Now, of course a.28 calibre rifle would hardly injure a rhino, but the +bullet happened to catch his right shoulder just as he was about to come +down on his right foot. The shock tripped him up as neatly as though he +had been upset by a rope. At the same instant Billy's mule came to its +senses and bolted, whereupon I too jumped off. The whole thing took +about two finger snaps of time. At the instant I hit the ground, Fundi +passed the double rifle across the horse's back to me. + +Note two things to the credit of Fundi: in the first place, he had not +bolted; in the second place, instead of running up to the left side of +my mount and perhaps colliding with and certainly confusing me, he had +come up on the right side and passed the rifle to me ACROSS the horse. +I do not know whether or not he had figured this out beforehand, but it +was cleverly done. + +The rhinoceros rolled over and over, like a shot rabbit, kicked for a +moment, and came to his feet. We were now all ready for him, in battle +array, but he had evidently had enough. He turned at right angles and +trotted off, apparently-and probably-none the worse for the little +bullet in his shoulder. + +Fundi now began acquiring things that he supposed befitting to his +dignity. The first of these matters was a faded fez, in which he stuck +a long feather. From that he progressed in worldly wealth. How he got +it all, on what credit, or with what hypnotic power, I do not know. +Probably he hypothecated his wages, certainly he had his five rupees. + +At any rate he started out with a ragged undershirt and a pair of white, +baggy breeches. He entered Nairobi at the end of the trip with a cap, +a neat khaki shirt, two water bottles, a cartridge belt, a sash with a +tassel, a pair of spiral puttees, an old pair of shoes, and a personal +private small boy, picked up en route from some of the savage tribes, +to carry his cooking pot, make his fires, draw his water, +and generally perform his lordly behests. This was indeed +“more-than-oriental-splendour!” + +From now on Fundi considered himself my second gunbearer. I had no use +for him, but Fundi's development interested me, and I wanted to give +him a chance. His main fault at first was eagerness. He had to be rapped +pretty sharply and a good number of times before he discovered that +he really must walk in the rear. His habit of calling my attention to +perfectly obvious things I cured by liberal sarcasm. His intense desire +to take his own line as perhaps opposed to mine when we were casting +about on trail, I abated kindly but firmly with the toe of my boot. His +evident but mistaken tendency to consider himself on an equality with +Memba Sasa we both squelched by giving him the hard and dirty work to +do. But his faults were never those of voluntary omission, and he came +on surprisingly; in fact so surprisingly that he began to get quite +cocky over it. Not that he was ever in the least aggressive or +disrespectful or neglectful-it would have been easy to deal with that +sort of thing-but he carried his head pretty high, and evidently began +to have mental reservations. Fundi needed a little wholesome discipline. +He was forgetting his porter days, and was rapidly coming to consider +himself a full-fledged gunbearer. + +The occasion soon arose. We were returning from a buffalo hunt and ran +across two rhinoceroses, one of which carried a splendid horn. B. +wanted a well developed specimen very much, so we took this chance. The +approach was easy enough, and at seventy yards or so B. knocked her flat +with a bullet from his.465 Holland. The beast was immediately afoot, but +was as promptly smothered by shots from us all. So far the affair was +very simple, but now came complication. The second rhinoceros refused to +leave. We did not want to kill it, so we spent a lot of time and pains +shooing it away. We showered rocks and clods of earth in his direction; +we yelled sharply and whistled shrilly. The brute faced here and there, +his pig eyes blinking, his snout upraised, trying to locate us, and +declining to budge. At length he gave us up as hopeless, and trotted +away slowly. We let him go, and when we thought he had quite departed, +we approached to examine B.'s trophy. + +Whereupon the other craftily returned; and charged us, snorting like +an engine blowing off steam. This was a genuine premeditated charge, +as opposed to a blind rush, and it is offered as a good example of the +sort. + +The rhinoceros had come fairly close before we got into action. He +headed straight for F. and myself, with B. a little to one side. Things +happened very quickly. F. and I each planted a heavy bullet in his head; +while B. sent a lighter Winchester bullet into the ribs. The rhino went +down in a heap eleven yards away, and one of us promptly shot him in the +spine to finish him. + +Personally I was entirely concentrated in the matter at hand-as is +always the way in crises requiring action-and got very few impressions +from anything outside. Nevertheless I imagined, subconsciously that I +had heard four shots. F. and B. disclaimed more than one apiece, so I +concluded myself mistaken, exchanged my heavy rifle with Fundi for the +lighter Winchester, and we started for camp, leaving all the boys +to attend to the dead rhinos. At camp I threw down the lever of my +Winchester-and drew out an exploded shell! + +Here was a double crime on Fundi's part. In the first place, he +had fired the gun, a thing no bearer is supposed ever to do in any +circumstances short of the disarmament and actual mauling of his master. +Naturally this is so, for the white man must be able in an emergency to +depend ABSOLUTELY on his second gun being loaded and ready for his need. +In the second place, Fundi had given me an empty rifle to carry home. +Such a weapon is worse than none in case of trouble; at least I could +have gone up a tree in the latter case. I would have looked sweet +snapping that old cartridge at anything dangerous! + +Therefore after supper we stationed ourselves in a row before the fire, +seated in our canvas chairs, and with due formality sent word that we +wanted all the gunbearers. They came and stood before us. Memba Sasa +erect, military, compact, looking us straight in the eye; Mavrouki +slightly bent forward, his face alive with the little crafty, +calculating smile peculiar to him; Simba, tall and suave, standing with +much social ease; and Fundi, a trifle frightened, but uncertain as to +whether or not he had been found out. + +We stated the matter in a few words. + +“Gunbearers, this man Fundi, when the rhinoceros charged, fired Winchi. +Was this the work of a gunbearer?” + +The three seasoned men looked at each other with shocked astonishment +that such depravity could exist. + +“And being frightened, he gave back Winchi with the exploded cartridge +in her. Was that the work of a gunbearer?” + +“No, bwana,” said Fundi humbly. + +“You, the gunbearers, have been called because we wish to know what +should be done with this man Fundi.” + +It should be here explained that it is not customary to kiboko, or flog, +men of the gunbearer class. They respect themselves and their calling, +and would never stand that sort of punishment. When one blunders, a +sarcastic scolding is generally sufficient; a more serious fault may +be punished on the spot by the white man's fist; or a really bad +dereliction may cause the man's instant degradation from the post. With +this in mind we had called the council of gunbearers. Memba Sasa spoke. + +“Bwana,” said he, “this man is not a true gunbearer. He is no longer +a true porter. He carries a gun in the field, like a gunbearer; and he +knows much of the duty of gunbearer. Also he does not run away nor climb +trees. But he carries in the meat; and he is not a real gunbearer. He is +half porter and half gunbearer.” + +“What punishment shall he have?” + +“Kiboko,” said they. + +“Thank you. Bass!” + +They went, leaving Fundi. We surveyed him, quietly. + +“You a gunbearer!” said we at last. “Memba Sasa says you are half +gunbearer. He was wrong. You are all porter; and you know no more than +they do. It is in our mind to put you back to carrying a load. If you do +not wish to taste the kiboko, you can take a load to-morrow.” + +“The kiboko, bwana,” pleaded Fundi, very abashed and humble. + +“Furthermore,” we added crushingly, “you did not even hit the +rhinoceros!” + +So with all ceremony he got the kiboko. The incident did him a lot of +good, and toned down his exuberance somewhat. Nevertheless he still +required a good deal of training, just as does a promising bird dog in +its first season. Generally his faults were of over-eagerness. Indeed, +once he got me thoroughly angry in face of another rhinoceros by dancing +just out of reach with the heavy rifle, instead of sticking close to me +where I could get at him. I temporarily forgot the rhino, and advanced +on Fundi with the full intention of knocking his fool head off. +Whereupon this six feet something of most superb and insolent pride +wilted down to a small boy with his elbow before his face. + +“Don't hit, bwana! Don't hit!” he begged. + +The whole thing was so comical, especially with Memba Sasa standing +by virtuous and scornful, that I had hard work to keep from laughing. +Fortunately the rhinoceros behaved himself. + +The proud moment of Fundi's life was when safari entered Nairobi at the +end of the first expedition. He had gone forth with a load on his head, +rags on his back, and his only glory was the self-assumed one of the +name he had taken-Fundi, the Expert. He returned carrying a rifle, +rigged from top to toe in new garments and fancy accoutrements, followed +by a toro, or small boy, he had bought from some of the savage tribes to +carry his blanket and cooking pot for him. To the friends who darted out +to the line of march, he was gracious, but he held his head high, and +had no time for mere persiflage. + +I did not take Fundi on my second expedition, for I had no real use for +a second gunbearer. Several times subsequently I saw him on the streets +of Nairobi. Always he came up to greet me, and ask solicitously if I +would not give him a job. This I was unable to do. When we paid off, I +had made an addition to his porter's wages, and had written him a chit. +This said that the boy had the makings of a gunbearer with further +training. It would have been unfair to possible white employers to have +said more. Fundi was, when I left the country, precisely in the position +of any young man who tries to rise in the world. He would not again take +a load as porter, and he was not yet skilled enough or known enough to +pick up more than stray jobs as gunbearer. Before him was struggle and +hard times, with a certainty of a highly considered profession if he won +through. Behind him was steady work without outlets for ambition. It +was distinctly up to him to prove whether he had done well to reach for +ambition, or whether he would have done better in contentment with his +old lot. And that is in essence a good deal like our own world isn't it? + + + + + +XVII. NATIVES + +Up to this time, save for a few Masai at the very beginning of our trip, +we had seen no natives at all. Only lately, the night of the lion dance, +one of the Wanderobo-the forest hunters-had drifted in to tell us of +buffalo and to get some meat. He was a simple soul, small and capable, +of a beautiful red-brown, with his hair done up in a tight, short queue. +He wore three skewers about six inches long thrust through each of his +ears, three strings of blue beads on his neck, a bracelet tight around +his upper arm, a bangle around his ankle, a pair of rawhide sandals, and +about a half yard of cotton cloth which he hung from one shoulder. +As weapons he carried a round-headed, heavy club, or runga, and a +long-bladed spear. He led us to buffalo, accepted a thirty-three cent +blanket, and made fire with two sticks in about thirty seconds. The only +other evidences of human life we had come across were a few beehives +suspended in the trees. These were logs, bored hollow and stopped at +either end. Some of them were very quaintly carved. They hung in the +trees like strange fruits. + +Now, however, after leaving the Isiola, we were to quit the game country +and for days travel among the swarming millions of the jungle. + +A few preliminary and entirely random observations may be permitted me +by way of clearing the ground for a conception of these people. These +observations do not pretend to be ethnological, nor even common logical. + +The first thing for an American to realize is that our own negro +population came mainly from the West Coast, and differed utterly from +these peoples of the highlands in the East. Therefore one must first of +all get rid of the mental image of our own negro “dressed up” in savage +garb. Many of these tribes are not negro at all-the Somalis, the Nandi, +and the Masai, for example-while others belong to the negroid and +Nilotic races. Their colour is general cast more on the red-bronze than +the black, though the Kavirondos and some others are black enough. The +texture of their skin is very satiny and wonderful. This perfection is +probably due to the constant anointing of the body with oils of various +sorts. As a usual thing they are a fine lot physically. The southern +Masai will average between six and seven feet in height, and are almost +invariably well built. Of most tribes the physical development is +remarkably strong and graceful; and a great many of the women will +display a rounded, firm, high-breasted physique in marked contrast to +the blacks of the lowlands. Of the different tribes possibly the Kikuyus +are apt to count the most weakly and spindly examples: though some of +these people, perhaps a majority, are well made. + +Furthermore, the native differentiates himself still further in +impression from our negro in his carriage and the mental attitude that +lies behind it. Our people are trying to pattern themselves on white +men, and succeed in giving a more or less shambling imitation thereof. +The native has standards, ideas, and ideals that perfectly satisfy him, +and that antedated the white man's coming by thousands of years. The +consciousness of this reflects itself in his outward bearing. He does +not shuffle; he is not either obsequious or impudent. Even when he +acknowledges the white man's divinity and pays it appropriate respect, +he does not lose the poise of his own well-worked-out attitude toward +life and toward himself. + +We are fond of calling these people primitive. In the world's standard +of measurement they are primitive, very primitive indeed. But ordinarily +by that term, we mean also undeveloped, embryonic. In that sense we are +wrong. Instead of being at the very dawn of human development, these +people are at the end-as far as they themselves are concerned. The +original racial impulse that started them down the years toward +development has fulfilled its duty and spent its force. They have worked +out all their problems, established all their customs, arranged the +world and its phenomena in a philosophy to their complete satisfaction. +They have lived, ethnologists tell us, for thousands, perhaps hundreds +of thousands of years, just as we find them to-day. From our standpoint +that is in a hopeless intellectual darkness, for they know absolutely +nothing of the most elementary subjects of knowledge. From their +standpoint, however, they have reached the highest DESIRABLE pinnacle +of human development. Nothing remains to be changed. Their customs, +religions, and duties have been worked out and immutably established +long ago; and nobody dreams of questioning either their wisdom or their +imperative necessity. They are the conservatives of the world. + +Nor must we conclude-looking at them with the eyes of our own +civilization-that the savage is, from his standpoint, lazy and idle. +His life is laid out more rigidly than ours will be for a great many +thousands of years. From childhood to old age he performs his every act +in accord with prohibitions and requirements. He must remember them all; +for ignorance does not divert consequences. He must observe them all; in +pain of terrible punishments. For example, never may he cultivate on +the site of a grave; and the plants that spring up from it must never +be cut.* He must make certain complicated offerings before venturing to +harvest a crop. On crossing the first stream of a journey he must touch +his lips with the end of his wetted bow, wade across, drop a stone on +the far side, and then drink. If he cuts his nails, he must throw the +parings into a thicket. If he drink from a stream, and also cross it, +he must eject a mouthful of water back into the stream. He must be +particularly careful not to look his mother-in-law in the face. Hundreds +of omens by the manner of their happening may modify actions, as, on +what side of the road a woodpecker calls, or in which direction a hyena +or jackal crosses the path, how the ground hornbill flies or alights, +and the like. He must notice these things, and change his plans +according to their occurrence. If he does not notice them, they exercise +their influence just the same. This does not encourage a distrait +mental attitude. Also it goes far to explain otherwise unexplainable +visitations. Truly, as Hobley says in his unexcelled work on the +A-Kamba, “the life of a savage native is a complex matter, and he is +hedged round by all sorts of rules and prohibitions, the infringement +of which will probably cause his death, if only by the intense belief he +has in the rules which guide his life.” + + * Customs are not universal among the different tribes. I am + merely illustrating. + +For these rules and customs he never attempts to give a reason. They +are; and that is all there is to it. A mere statement: “This is the +custom” settles the matter finally. There is no necessity, nor passing +thought even, of finding any logical cause. The matter was worked out +in the mental evolution of remote ancestors. At that time, perhaps, +insurgent and Standpatter, Conservative and Radical fought out the +questions of the day, and the Muckrakers swung by their tails and +chattered about it. Those days are all long since over. The questions +of the world are settled forever. The people have passed through the +struggles of their formative period to the ultimate highest perfection +of adjustment to material and spiritual environment of which they were +capable under the influence of their original racial force. + +Parenthetically, it is now a question whether or not an added impulse +can be communicated from without. Such an impulse must (a) unsettle all +the old beliefs, (b) inspire an era of skepticism, (c) reintroduce the +old struggle of ideas between the Insurgent and the Standpatter, and +Radical and the Conservative, (d) in the meantime furnish, from the +older civilization, materials, both in the thought-world and in the +object-world, for building slowly a new set of customs more closely +approximating those we are building for ourselves. This is a longer +and slower and more complicated affair than teaching the native to wear +clothes and sing hymns; or to build houses and drink gin; but it is what +must be accomplished step by step before the African peoples are really +civilized. I, personally, do not think it can be done. + +Now having, a hundred thousand years or so ago, worked out the highest +good of the human race, according to them, what must they say to +themselves and what must their attitude be when the white man has come +and has unrolled his carpet of wonderful tricks? The dilemma is evident. +Either we, as black men, must admit that our hundred-thousand-year-old +ideas as to what constitutes the highest type of human relation to +environment is all wrong, or else we must evolve a new attitude toward +this new phenomena. It is human nature to do the latter. Therefore the +native has not abandoned his old gods; nor has he adopted a new. He +still believes firmly that his way is the best way of doing things, but +he acknowledges the Superman. + +To the Superman, with all races, anything is possible. Only our Superman +is an idea, and ideal. The native has his Superman before him in the +actual flesh. + +We will suppose that our own Superman has appeared among us, +accomplishing things that apparently contravene all our established +tenets of skill, of intellect, of possibility. It will be readily +acknowledged that such an individual would at first create some +astonishment. He wanders into a crowded hotel lobby, let us say, +evidently with the desire of going to the bar. Instead of pushing +laboriously through the crowd, he floats just above their heads, gets +his drink, and floats out again! That is levitation, and is probably +just as simple to him as striking a match is to you and me. After we +get thoroughly accustomed to him and his life, we are no longer vastly +astonished, though always interested, at the various manifestations +of his extraordinary powers. We go right along using the marvellous +wireless, aeroplanes, motor cars, constructive machinery, and the +like that make us confident-justly, of course-in that we are about the +smartest lot of people on earth. And if we see red, white, and blue +streamers of light crossing the zenith at noon, we do not manifest any +very profound amazement. “There's that confounded Superman again,” we +mutter, if we happen to be busy. “I wonder what stunt he's going to do +now!” + +A consideration of the above beautiful fable may go a little way toward +explaining the supposed native stolidity in the face of the white man's +wonders. A few years ago some misguided person brought a balloon to +Nairobi. The balloon interested the white people a lot, but everybody +was chiefly occupied wondering what the natives would do when they saw +THAT! The natives did not do anything. They gathered in large numbers, +and most interestedly watched it go up, and then went home again. But +they were not stricken with wonder to any great extent. So also with +locomotives, motor cars, telephones, phonographs-any of our modern +ingenuities. The native is pleased and entertained, but not astonished. +“Stupid creature, no imagination,” say we, because our pride in showing +off is a wee bit hurt. + +Why should he be astonished? His mental revolution took place when he +saw the first match struck. It is manifestly impossible for any one to +make fire instantaneously by rubbing one small stick. When for the first +time he saw it done, he was indeed vastly astounded. The immutable had +been changed. The law had been transcended. The impossible had been +accomplished. And then, as logical sequence, his mind completed the +syllogism. If the white man can do this impossibility, why not all the +rest? To defy the laws of nature by flying in the air or forcing great +masses of iron to transport one, is no more wonderful than to defy +them by striking a light. Since the white man can provedly do one, what +earthly reason exists why he should not do anything else that hits his +fancy? There is nothing to get astonished at. + +This does not necessarily mean that the native looks on the white man +as a god. On the contrary, your African is very shrewd in the reading of +character. But indubitably white men possess great magic, uncertain in +its extent. + +That is as far as I should care to go, without much deeper acquaintance, +into the attitude of the native mind toward the whites. A superficial +study of it, beyond the general principals I have enunciated, discloses +many strange contradictions. The native respects the white man's warlike +skill, he respects his physical prowess, he certainly acknowledges +tacitly his moral superiority in the right to command. In case of +dispute he likes the white man's adjudication; in case of illness the +man's medicine; in case of trouble the white man's sustaining hand. Yet +he almost never attempts to copy the white man's appearance or ways of +doing things. His own savage customs and habits he fulfils with as much +pride as ever in their eternal fitness. Once I was badgering Memba Sasa, +asking him whether he thought the white skin or the black skin the more +ornamental. “You are not white,” he retorted at last. “That,” pointing +to a leaf of my notebook, “is white. You are red. I do not like the +looks of red people.” + +They call our speech the “snake language,” because of its hissing sound. +Once this is brought to your attention, indeed, you cannot help noticing +the superabundance of the sibilants. + +A queer melange the pigeonholes of an African's brain must contain-fear +and respect, strongly mingled with clear estimate of intrinsic character +of individuals and a satisfaction with his own standards. + +Nor, I think, do we realize sufficiently the actual fundamental +differences between the African and our peoples. Physically they must +be in many ways as different from our selves as though they actually +belonged to a different species. The Masai are a fine big race, +enduring, well developed and efficient. They live exclusively on cow's +milk mixed with blood; no meat, no fruit, no vegetables, no grain; +just that and nothing more. Obviously they must differ from us most +radically, or else all our dietetic theories are wrong. It is a +well-known fact that any native requires a triple dose of white man's +medicine. Furthermore a native's sensitiveness to pain is very much +less than the white man's. This is indubitable. For example, the Wakamba +file-or, rather, chip, by means of a small chisel-all their front +teeth down to needle points, When these happen to fall out, the warrior +substitutes an artificial tooth which he drives down into the socket. +If the savage got the same effects from such a performance that a white +man's dental system would arouse, even “savage stoicism” would hardly +do him much good. There is nothing to be gained by multiplying examples. +Every African traveller can recall a thousand. + +Incidentally, and by the way, I want to add to the milk-and-blood joke +on dietetics another on the physical culturists. We are all familiar +with the wails over the loss of our toe nails. You know what I mean; +they run somewhat like this: shoes are the curse of civilization; if +we wear them much longer we shall not only lose the intended use of our +feet, but we shall lose our toe nails as well; the savage man, etc., +etc., etc. Now I saw a great many of said savage men in Africa, and I +got much interested in their toe nails, because I soon found that our +own civilized “imprisoned” toe nails were very much better developed. In +fact, a large number of the free and untramelled savages have hardly any +toe nails at all! Whether this upsets a theory, nullifies a sentimental +protest, or merely stands as an exception, I should not dare guess. But +the fact is indubitable. + + + + + +XVIII. IN THE JUNGLE (a) THE MARCH TO MERU + +Now, one day we left the Isiola River and cut across on a long upward +slant to the left. In a very short time we had left the plains, and were +adrift in an ocean of brown grass that concealed all but the bobbing +loads atop the safari, and over which we could only see when mounted. It +was glorious feed, apparently, but it contained very few animals for all +that. An animal could without doubt wax fat and sleek therein: but only +to furnish light and salutary meals to beasts of prey. Long grass makes +easy stalking. We saw a few ostriches, some giraffe, and three or +four singly adventurous oryx. The ripening grasses were softer than a +rippling field grain; and even more beautiful in their umber and browns. +Although apparently we travelled a level, nevertheless in the extreme +distance the plains of our hunting were dropping below, and the far off +mountains were slowly rising above the horizon. On the other side were +two very green hills, looking nearly straight up and down, and through a +cleft the splintered snow-clad summit of Mt. Kenia. + +At length this gentle foothill slope broke over into rougher country. +Then, in the pass, we came upon many parallel beaten paths, wider and +straighter than the game trails-native tracks. That night we camped in +a small, round valley under some glorious trees, with green grass around +us; a refreshing contrast after the desert brown. In the distance ahead +stood a big hill, and at its base we could make out amid the tree-green, +the straight slim smoke of many fires and the threads of many roads. + +We began our next morning's march early, and we dropped over the hill +into a wide, cultivated valley. Fields of grain, mostly rape, were +planted irregularly among big scattered trees. The morning air, warming +under the sun, was as yet still, and carried sound well. The cooing, +chattering and calling of thousands of birds mingled with shouts and the +clapping together of pieces of wood. As we came closer we saw that every +so often scaffolds had been erected overlooking the grain, and on these +scaffolds naked boys danced and yelled and worked clappers to scare the +birds from the crops. They seemed to put a great deal of rigour into the +job; whether from natural enthusiasm or efficient direful supervision I +could not say. Certainly they must have worked in watches, however; no +human being could keep up that row continuously for a single day, let +alone the whole season of ripening grain. As we passed they fell silent +and stared their fill. + +On the banks of a boggy little stream that we had to flounder across we +came on a gentleman and lady travelling. They were a tall, well formed +pair, mahogany in colour, with the open, pleasant expression of most of +these jungle peoples. The man wore a string around his waist into which +was thrust a small leafy branch; the woman had on a beautiful skirt made +by halving a banana leaf, using the stem as belt, and letting the leaf +part hang down as a skirt. Shortly after meeting these people we turned +sharp to the right on a well beaten road. + +For nearly two weeks we were to follow this road, so it may be as well +to get an idea of it. Its course was a segment of about a sixth of the +circle of Kenia's foothills. With Kenia itself as a centre, this road +swung among the lower elevations about the base of that great mountain. +Its course was mainly down and up hundreds of the canyons radiating from +the main peak, and over the ridges between them. No sooner were we down, +than we had to climb up; and no sooner were we up, than once more down +we had to plunge. At times, however, we crossed considerable plateaus. +Most of this country was dense jungle, so dense that we could not see +on either side more than fifteen or twenty feet. Occasionally, atop the +ridges, however, we would come upon small open parks. In these jungles +live millions of human beings. + +At once, as soon as we had turned into the main road, we began to meet +people. In the grain fields of the valley we saw only the elevated boys, +and a few men engaged in weaving a little house perched on stilts. We +came across some of these little houses all completed, with conical +roofs. They were evidently used for granaries. As we mounted the slope +on the other side, however, the trees closed in, and we found ourselves +marching down the narrow aisle of the jungle itself. + +It was a dense and beautiful jungle, with very tall trees and the +deepest shade; and the impenetrable tangle to the edge of the track. +Among the trees were the broad leaves of bananas and palms, the fling +of leafy vines. Over the track these leaned, so that we rode through +splashing and mottling shade. Nothing could have seemed wilder than +this apparently impenetrable and yet we had ridden but a short distance +before we realized that we were in fact passing through cultivated land. +It was, again, only a difference in terms. Native cultivation in this +district rarely consists of clearing land and planting crops in due +order, but in leaving the forest proper as it is, and in planting +foodstuffs haphazard wherever a tiny space can be made for even three +hills of corn or a single banana. Thus they add to rather than subtract +from the typical density of the jungle. At first, we found, it took some +practice to tell a farm when we saw it. + +From the track narrow little paths wound immediately out of sight. +Sometimes we saw a wisp of smoke rising above the undergrowth and +eddying in the tops of the trees. Long vine ropes swung from point to +point, hung at intervals with such matters as feathers, bones, miniature +shields, carved sticks, shells and clappers: either as magic or to keep +off the birds. From either side the track we were conscious always of +bright black eyes watching us. Sometimes we caught a glimpse of their +owners crouched in the bush, concealed behind banana leaves, motionless +and straight against a tree trunk. When they saw themselves observed +they vanished without a sound. + +The upper air was musical with birds, and bright with the flutter of +their wings. Rarely did we see them long enough to catch a fair idea of +their size and shape. They flashed from shade to shade, leaving only +an impression of brilliant colour. There were some exceptions: as the +widower-bird, dressed all in black, with long trailing wing-plumes of +which he seemed very proud; and the various sorts of green pigeons and +parrots. There were many flowering shrubs and trees, and the air was +laden with perfume. Strange, too, it seemed to see tall trees with +leaves three or four feet long and half as many wide. + +We were riding a mile or so ahead of the safari. At first we were +accompanied only by our gunbearers and syces. Before long, however, we +began to accumulate a following. + +This consisted at first of a very wonderful young man, probably a +chief's son. He carried a long bright spear, wore a short sword thrust +through a girdle, had his hair done in three wrapped queues, one over +each temple and one behind, and was generally brought to a high state +of polish by means of red earth and oil. About his knee he wore a little +bell that jingled pleasingly at every step. From one shoulder hung a +goat-skin cloak embroidered with steel beads. A small package neatly +done up in leaves probably contained his lunch. He teetered along with a +mincing up and down step, every movement, and the expression of his face +displaying a fatuous self-satisfaction. When we looked back again this +youth had magically become two. Then appeared two women and a white +goat. All except the goat were dressed for visiting, with long chains of +beads, bracelets and anklets, and heavy ornaments in the distended ear +lobes. The manner people sprang apparently out of the ground was very +disconcerting. It was a good deal like those fairy-story moving pictures +where a wave of the wand produces beautiful ladies. By half an hour +we had acquired a long retinue-young warriors, old men, women and +innumerable children. After we had passed, the new recruits stepped +quietly from the shadow of the jungle and fell in. Every one with +nothing much to do evidently made up his mind he might as well go to +Meru now as any other time. + +Also we met a great number of people going in the other direction. Women +were bearing loads of yams. Chiefs' sons minced along, their spears +poised in their left hands at just the proper angle, their bangles +jingling, their right hands carried raised in a most affected manner. +Their social ease was remarkable, especially in contrast with the +awkwardness of the lower poverty-stricken or menial castes. The latter +drew one side to let us pass, and stared. Our chiefs' sons, on the other +hand, stepped springingly and beamingly forward; spat carefully in their +hands (we did the same); shook hands all down the line: exchanged +a long-drawn “moo-o-ga!” with each of us; and departed at the same +springing rapid gait. The ordinary warriors greeted us, but did not +offer to shake hands, thank goodness! There were a great many of them. +Across the valleys and through the open spaces the sun, as it struck +down the trail, was always flashing back from distant spears. Twice we +met flocks of sheep being moved from one point to another. Three or four +herdsmen and innumerable small boys seemed to be in charge. Occasionally +we met a real chief or headman of a village, distinguished by the +fact that he or a servant carried a small wooden stool. With these +dignitaries we always stopped to exchange friendly words. + +These comprised the travelling public. The resident public also showed +itself quite in evidence. Once our retainers had become sufficiently +numerous to inspire confidence, the jungle people no longer hid. On +the contrary, they came out to the very edge of the track to exchange +greetings. They were very good-natured, exceedingly well-formed, and +quite jocular with our boys. Especially did our suave and elegant Simba +sparkle. This resident public, called from its daily labours and duties, +did not always show as gaudy a make-up as did the dressed-up travelling +public. Banana leaves were popular wear, and seemed to us at once pretty +and fresh. To be sure some had rather withered away; but even wool will +shrink. We saw some grass skirts, like the Sunday-school pictures. + +At noon we stopped under a tree by a little stream for lunch. Before +long a dozen women were lined up in front of us staring at Billy with +all their might. She nodded and smiled at them. Thereupon they sent +one of their number away. The messenger returned after a few moments +carrying a bunch of the small eating bananas which she laid at our feet. +Billy fished some beads out of her saddle bags, and presented them. +Friendly relations having been thus fully established, two or three of +the women scurried hastily away, to return a few moments later each with +her small child. To these infants they carefully and earnestly pointed +out Billy and her wonders, talking in a tongue unknown to us. The +admonition undoubtedly ran something like this: + +“Now, my child, look well at this: for when you get to be a very old +person you will be able to look back at the day when with your own +eyes you beheld a white woman. See all the strange things she wears-and +HASN'T she a funny face?” + +We offered these bung-eyed and totally naked youngsters various bribes +in the way of beads, the tinfoil from chocolate, and even a small piece +of the chocolate itself. Most of them howled and hid their faces against +their mothers. The mothers looked scandalized, and hypocritically +astounded, and mortified. + +They made remarks, still in an unknown language, but which much past +experience enabled me to translate very readily: + +“I don't know what has got into little Willie,” was the drift of it. “I +have never known him to act this way before. Why, only yesterday I was +saying to his father that it really seemed as though that child NEVER +cried-” + +It made me feel quite friendly and at home. + +Now at last came two marvellous and magnificent personages before +whom the women and children drew back to a respectful distance. These +potentates squatted down and smiled at us engagingly. Evidently this was +a really important couple, so we called up Simba, who knew the language, +and had a talk. + +They were old men, straight, and very tall, with the hawk-faced, +high-headed dignity of the true aristocrat. Their robes were voluminous, +of some short-haired skins, beautifully embroidered. Around their arms +were armlets of polished buffalo horn. They wore most elaborate ear +ornaments, and long cased marquise rings extending well beyond the first +joints of the fingers. Very fine old gentlemen. They were quite unarmed. + +After appropriate greetings, we learned that these were the chief +and his prime minister of a nearby village hidden in the jungle. We +exchanged polite phrases; then offered tobacco. This was accepted. +From the jungle came a youth carrying more bananas. We indicated our +pleasure. The old men arose with great dignity and departed, sweeping +the women and children before them. + +We rode on. Our acquired retinue, which had waited at a respectful +distance, went on too. I suppose they must have desired the prestige +of being attached to Our Persons. In the depths of the forest Billy +succumbed to the temptation to bargain, and made her first trade. Her +prize was a long water gourd strapped with leather and decorated with +cowry shells. Our boys were completely scandalized at the price she paid +for it, so I fear the wily savage got ahead of her. + +About the middle of the afternoon we sat down to wait for the safari to +catch up. It would never do to cheat our boys out of their anticipated +grand entrance to the Government post at Meru. We finally debouched +from the forest to the great clearing at the head of a most impressive +procession, flags flying, oryx horns blowing, boys chanting and beating +the sides of their loads with the safari sticks. As there happened to be +gathered, at this time, several thousand of warriors for the purpose +of a council, or shauri, with the District Commissioner we had just the +audience to delight our barbaric hearts. + +(b) MERU + +The Government post at Meru is situated in a clearing won from the +forest on the first gentle slopes of Kenia's ranges. The clearing is a +very large one, and on it the grass grows green and short, like a lawn. +It resembles, as much as anything else, the rolling, beautiful downs +of a first-class country club, and the illusion is enhanced by the +Commissioner's house among some trees atop a hill. Well-kept roadways +railed with rustic fences lead from the house to the native quarters +lying in the hollow and to the Government offices atop another hill. +Then also there are the quarters of the Nubian troops; round low houses +with conical grass roofs. + +These, and the presence everywhere of savages, rather take away from +the first country-club effect. A corral seemed full of a seething mob of +natives; we found later that this was the market, a place of exchange. +Groups wandered idly here and there across the greensward; and other +groups sat in circles under the shade of trees, each man's spear stuck +in the ground behind him. At stated points were the Nubians, fine, tall, +black, soldierly men, with red fez, khaki shirt, and short breeches, +bare knees and feet, spiral puttees, and a broad red sash of webbing. +One of these soldiers assigned us a place to camp. We directed our +safari there, and then immediately rode over to pay our respects to the +Commissioner. + +The latter, Horne by name, greeted us with the utmost cordiality, and +offered us cool drinks. Then we accompanied him to a grand shauri or +council of chiefs. + +Horne was a little chap, dressed in flannels and a big slouch hat, +carrying only a light rawhide whip, with very little of the dignity and +“side” usually considered necessary in dealing with wild natives. The +post at Meru had been established only two years, among a people that +had always been very difficult, and had only recently ceased open +hostilities. Nevertheless in that length of time Horne's personal +influence had won them over to positive friendliness. He had, moreover, +done the entire construction work of the post itself; and this we now +saw to be even more elaborate than we had at first realized. Irrigating +ditches ran in all directions brimming with clear mountain water; the +roads and paths were rounded, graded and gravelled; the houses were +substantial, well built and well kept; fences, except of course the +rustic, were whitewashed; the native quarters and “barracks” were well +ranged and in perfect order. The place looked ten years old instead of +only two. + +We followed Horne to an enclosure, outside the gate of which were +stacked a great number of spears. Inside we found the owners of those +spears squatted before the open side of a small, three-walled building +containing a table and a chair. Horne placed himself in the chair, +lounged back, and hit the table smartly with his rawhide whip. From the +centre of the throng an old man got up and made quite a long speech. +When he had finished another did likewise. All was carried out with the +greatest decorum. After four or five had thus spoken, Horne, without +altering his lounging attitude, spoke twenty or thirty words, rapped +again on the table with his rawhide whip, and immediately came over to +us. + +“Now,” said he cheerfully, “we'll have a game of golf.” + +That was amusing, but not astonishing. Most of us have at one time or +another laid out a scratch hole or so somewhere in the vacant lot. We +returned to the house, Horne produced a sufficiency of clubs, and we +sallied forth. Then came the surprise of our life! We played eighteen +holes-eighteen, mind you-over an excellently laid-out and kept-up +course! The fair greens were cropped short and smooth by a well-managed +small herd of sheep; the putting greens were rolled, and in perfect +order; bunkers had been located at the correct distances; there +were water hazards in the proper spots. In short, it was a genuine, +scientific, well-kept golf course. Over it played Horne, solitary except +on the rare occasions when he and his assistant happened to be at the +post at the same time. The nearest white man was six days' journey; +the nearest small civilization 196 miles.* The whole affair was most +astounding. + + * Which was, in turn, over three hundred miles from the + next. + +Our caddies were grinning youngsters a good deal like the Gold +Dust Twins. They wore nothing but our golf bags. Afield were other +supernumerary caddies: one in case we sliced, one in case we pulled, +and one in case we drove straight ahead. Horne explained that unlimited +caddies were easier to get than unlimited golf balls. I can well believe +it. + +F. joined forces with Horne against B. and me for a grand international +match. I regret to state that America was defeated by two holes. + +We returned to find our camp crowded with savages. In a short time we +had established trade relations and were doing a brisk business. Two +years before we should have had to barter exclusively; but now, thanks +to Horne's attempt to collect an annual hut tax, money was some good. We +had, however, very good luck with bright blankets and cotton cloth. +Our beads did not happen here to be in fashion. Probably three months +earlier or later we might have done better with them. The feminine mind +here differs in no basic essential from that of civilization. Fashions +change as rapidly, as often and as completely in the jungle as in Paris. +The trader who brings blue beads when blue beads have “gone out” might +just as well have stayed at home. We bought a number of the pretty +“marquise” rings for four cents apiece (our money), some war clubs or +rungas for the same, several spears, armlets, stools and the like. Billy +thought one of the short, soft skin cloaks embroidered with steel beads +might be nice to hang on the wall. We offered a youth two rupees for +one. This must have been a high price, for every man in hearing of the +words snatched off his cloak and rushed forward holding it out. As that +reduced his costume to a few knick-knacks, Billy retired from the busy +mart until we could arrange matters. + +We dined with Horne. His official residence was most interesting. The +main room was very high to beams and a grass-thatched roof, with a +well-brushed earth floor covered with mats. It contained comfortable +furniture, a small library, a good phonograph, tables, lamps and the +like. When the mountain chill descended, Horne lit a fire in a coal-oil +can with a perforated bottom. What little smoke was produced by the +clean burning wood lost itself far aloft. Leopard skins and other +trophies hung on the wall. We dined in another room at a well-appointed +table. After dinner we sat up until the unheard of hour of ten o'clock +discussing at length many matters that interested us. Horne told us of +his personal bodyguard consisting of one son from each chief of his wide +district. These youths were encouraged to make as good an appearance +as possible, and as a consequence turned out in the extreme of savage +gorgeousness. Horne spoke of them carelessly as a “matter of policy in +keeping the different tribes well disposed,” but I thought he was at +heart a little proud of them. Certainly, later and from other sources, +we heard great tales of their endurance, devotion and efficiency. Also +we heard that Horne had cut in half his six months' leave (earned +by three years' continuous service in the jungle) to hurry back from +England because he could not bear the thought of being absent from the +first collection of the hut tax! He is a good man. + +We said good-night to him and stepped from the lighted house into +the vast tropical night. The little rays of our lantern showed us the +inequalities of the ground, and where to step across the bubbling, +little irrigation streams. But thousands of stars insisted on a +simplification. The broad, rolling meadows of the clearing lay half +guessed in the dim light; and about its edge was the velvet band of +the forest, dark and mysterious, stretching away for leagues into the +jungle. From it near at hand, far away, came the rhythmic beating of +solemn great drums, and the rising and falling chants of the savage +peoples. + +(C) THE CHIEFS + +We left Meru well observed by a very large audience, much to the delight +of our safari boys, who love to show off. We had acquired fourteen more +small boys, or totos, ranging in age from eight to twelve years. These +had been fitted out by their masters to alleviate their original shenzi +appearance of savagery. Some had ragged blankets, which they had already +learned to twist turban wise around their heads; others had ragged +old jerseys reaching to their knees, or the wrecks of full-grown +undershirts; one or two even sported baggy breeches a dozen sizes too +large. Each carried his little load, proudly, atop his head like a real +porter, sufurias or cooking pots, the small bags of potio, and the like. +Inside a mile they had gravitated together and with the small boy's +relish for imitation and for playing a game, had completed a miniature +safari organization of their own. Thenceforth they marched in a compact +little company, under orders of their “headman.” They marched very well, +too, straight and proud and tireless. Of course we inspected their loads +to see that they were not required to carry too much for their strength; +but, I am bound to say, we never discovered an attempt at overloading. +In fact, the toto brigade was treated very well indeed. M'ganga +especially took great interest in their education and welfare. One of +my most vivid camp recollections is that of M'ganga, very benign and +didactic, seated on a chop box and holding forth to a semicircle of +totos squatted on the ground before him. On reaching camp totos had +several clearly defined duties: they must pick out good places for their +masters' individual camps, they must procure cooking stones, they must +collect kindling wood and start fires, they must fill the sufurias with +water and set them over to boil. In the meantime, their masters were +attending to the pitching of the bwana's camp. The rest of the time the +toto played about quite happily, and did light odd jobs, or watched most +attentively while his master showed him small details of a safari-boy's +duty, or taught him simple handicraft. Our boys seemed to take great +pains with their totos and to try hard to teach them. + +Also at Meru we had acquired two cocks and four hens of the ridiculously +small native breed. These rode atop the loads: their feet were tied to +the cords and there they swayed and teetered and balanced all day long, +apparently quite happy and interested. At each new camp site they were +released and went scratching and clucking around among the tents. They +lent our temporary quarters quite a settled air of domesticity. We named +the cocks Gaston and Alphonse and somehow it was rather fine, in +the blackness before dawn, to hear these little birds crowing +stout-heartedly against the great African wilderness. Neither Gaston, +Alphonse nor any of their harem were killed and eaten by their owners; +but seemed rather to fulfil the function of household pets. + +Along the jungle track we met swarms of people coming in to the post. +One large native safari composed exclusively of women were transporting +loads of trade goods for the Indian trader. They carried their burdens +on their backs by means of a strap passing over the top of the head; our +own “tump line” method. The labour seemed in no way to have dashed their +spirits, for they grinned at us, and joked merrily with our boys. Along +the way, every once in a while, we came upon people squatted down behind +small stocks of sugarcane, yams, bananas, and the like. With these our +boys did a brisk trade. Little paths led mysteriously into the jungle. +Down them came more savages to greet us. Everybody was most friendly and +cheerful, thanks to Horne's personal influence. Two years before this +same lot had been hostile. From every hidden village came the headmen +or chiefs. They all wanted to shake hands-the ordinary citizen never +dreamed of aspiring to that honour-and they all spat carefully into +their palms before they did so. This all had to be done in passing; for +ordinary village headmen it was beneath Our Dignity to draw rein. Once +only we broke over this rule. That was in the case of an old fellow with +white hair who managed to get so tangled up in the shrubbery that he +could not get to us. He was so frantic with disappointment that we made +an exception and waited. + +About three miles out, we lost one of our newly acquired totos. Reason: +an exasperated parent who had followed from Meru for the purpose of +reclaiming his runaway offspring. The latter was dragged off howling. +Evidently he, like some of his civilized cousins, had “run away to join +the circus.” As nearly as we could get at it, the rest of the totos, as +well as the nine additional we picked up before we quitted the jungle, +had all come with their parents' consent. In fact, we soon discovered +that we could buy any amount of good sound totos, not house broke +however, for an average of half a rupee (16-1/2 cents) apiece. + +The road was very much up and down hill over the numerous ridges that +star-fish out from Mt. Kenia. We would climb down steep trails from 200 +to 800 feet (measured by aneroid), cross an excellent mountain stream of +crystalline dashing water, and climb out again. The trails of course had +no notion of easy grades. It was very hard work, especially for men with +loads; and it would have been impossible on account of the heat were +it not for the numerous streams. On the slopes and in the bottoms +were patches of magnificent forest; on the crests was the jungle, and +occasionally an outlook over extended views. The birds and the strange +tropical big-leaved trees were a constant delight-exotic and strange. +Billy was in a heaven of joy, for her specialty in Africa was plants, +seeds and bulbs, for her California garden. She had syces, gunbearers +and tent boys all climbing, shaking branches, and generally pawing +about. + +This idiosyncracy of Billy's puzzled our boys hugely. At first they +tried telling her that everything was poisonous; but when that did not +work, they resigned themselves to their fate. In fact, some of the most +enterprising like Memba Sasa, Kitaru, and, later, Kongoni used of their +own accord to hunt up and bring in seeds and blossoms. They did not in +the least understand what it was for; and it used to puzzle them +hugely until out of sheer pity for their uneasiness, I implied that the +Memsahib collected “medicine.” That was rational, so the wrinkled brow +of care was smoothed. From this botanical trait, Billy got her native +name of “Beebee Kooletta”--“The Lady Who Says: Go Get That.” For in +Africa every white man has a name by which he is known among the native +people. If you would get news of your friends, you must know their local +cognomens-their own white man names will not do at all. For example, +I was called either Bwana Machumwani or Bwana N'goma. The former means +merely Master Four-eyes, referring to my glasses. The precise meaning of +the latter is a matter much disputed between myself and Billy. An N'goma +is a native dance, consisting of drum poundings, chantings, and hoppings +around. Therefore I translate myself (most appropriately) as the +Master who Makes Merry. On the other hand, Billy, with true feminine +indirectness, insists that it means “The Master who Shouts and Howls.” I +leave it to any fairminded reader. + +About the middle of the morning we met a Government runner, a proud +youth, young, lithe, with many ornaments and bangles; his red skin +glistening; the long blade of his spear, bound around with a red strip +to signify his office, slanting across his shoulder; his buffalo hide +shield slung from it over his back; the letter he was bearing stuck in +a cleft stick and carried proudly before him as a priest carries a cross +to the heathen-in the pictures. He was swinging along at a brisk pace, +but on seeing us drew up and gave us a smart military salute. + +At one point where the path went level and straight for some distance, +we were riding in an absolute solitude. Suddenly from the jungle on +either side and about fifty yards ahead of us leaped a dozen women. They +were dressed in grass skirts, and carried long narrow wooden shields +painted white and brown. These they clashed together, shrieked shrilly, +and charged down on us at full speed. When within a few yards of +our horses noses they came to a sudden halt, once more clashed their +shields, shrieked, turned and scuttled away as fast as their legs +could carry them. At a hundred yards they repeated the performance; and +charged back at us again. Thus advancing and retreating, shrieking high, +hitting the wooden shields with resounding crash, they preceded our slow +advance for a half mile or so. Then at some signal unperceived by us +they vanished abruptly into the jungle. Once more we rode forward in +silence and in solitude. Why they did it I could not say. + +Of this tissue were our days made. At noon our boys plucked us each two +or three banana leaves which they spread down for us to lie on. Then +we dozed through the hot hours in great comfort, occasionally waking to +blue sky through green trees, or to peer idly into the tangled jungle. +At two o'clock or a little later we would arouse ourselves reluctantly +and move on. The safari we had dimly heard passing us an hour before. +In this country of the direct track we did not attempt to accompany our +men. + +The end of the day's march found us in a little clearing where we could +pitch camp. Generally this was atop a ridge, so that the boys had some +distance to carry water; but that disadvantage was outweighed by the +cleared space. Sometimes we found ourselves hemmed in by a wall of +jungle. Again we enjoyed a broad outlook. One such in especial took in +the magnificent, splintered, snow-capped peak of Kenia on the right, a +tremendous gorge and rolling forested mountains straight ahead, and a +great drop to a plain with other and distant mountains to the left. It +was as fine a panoramic view as one could imagine. + +Our tents pitched, and ourselves washed and refreshed, we gave audience +to the resident chief, who had probably been waiting. With this +potentate we conversed affably, after the usual expectoratorial +ceremonies. Billy, being a mere woman, did not always come in for this; +but nevertheless she maintained what she called her “quarantine gloves,” + and kept them very handy. We had standing orders with our boys for +basins of hot water to be waiting always behind our tents. After the +usual polite exchanges we informed the chief of our needs-firewood, +perhaps, milk, a sheep or the like. These he furnished. When we left we +made him a present of a few beads, a knife, a blanket or such according +to the value of his contribution. + +To me these encounters were some of the most interesting of our many +experiences, for each man differed radically from every other in his +conceptions of ceremony, in his ideas, and in his methods. Our coming +was a good deal of an event, always, and each chief, according to his +temperament and training, tried to do things up properly. And in +that attempt certain basic traits of human nature showed in the very +strongest relief. Thus there are three points of view to take in running +any spectacle: that of the star performer, the stage manager, or the +truly artistic. We encountered well-marked specimens of each. I will +tell you about them. + +The star performer knew his stagecraft thoroughly; and in the exposition +of his knowledge he showed incidentally how truly basic are the +principles of stagecraft anywhere. + +We were seated under a tree near the banks of a stream eating our lunch. +Before us appeared two tall and slender youths, wreathed in smiles, +engaging, and most attentive to the small niceties of courtesy. We +returned their greeting from our recumbent positions, whereupon they +made preparation to squat down beside us. + +“Are you sultans?” we demanded sternly, “that you attempt to sit in Our +Presence,” and we lazily kicked the nearest. + +Not at all abashed, but favourably impressed with our transcendent +importance-as we intended-they leaned gracefully on their spears and +entered into conversation. After a few trifles of airy persiflage they +got down to business. + +“This,” said they, indicating the tiny flat, “is the most beautiful +place to camp in all the mountains.” + +We doubted it. + +“Here is excellent water.” + +We agreed to that. + +“And there is no more water for a journey.” + +“You are liars,” we observed politely. + +“And near is the village of our chief, who is a great warrior, and will +bring you many presents; the greatest man in these parts.” + +“Now you're getting to it,” we observed in English; “you want trade.” + Then in Swahili, “We shall march two hours longer.” + +After a few polite phrases they went away. We finished lunch, remounted, +and rode up the trail. At the edge of the canyon we came to a wide +clearing, at the farther side of which was evidently the village in +question. But the merry villagers, down to the last toro, were drawn up +at the edge of the track in a double line through which we rode. They +were very wealthy savages, and wore it all. Bright neck, arm, and leg +ornaments, yards and yards of cowry shells in strings, blue beads of +all sizes (blue beads were evidently “in”), odd scraps and shapes of +embroidered skins, clean shaves and a beautiful polish characterized +this holiday gathering. We made our royal progress between the +serried ranks. About eight or ten seconds after we had passed the last +villager-just the proper dramatic pause, you observe-the bushes parted +and a splendid, straight, springy young man came into view and stepped +smilingly across the space that separated us. And about eight or ten +seconds after his emergence-again just the right dramatic pause-the +bushes parted again to give entrance to four of the quaintest little +dolls of wives. These advanced all abreast, parted, and took up +positions two either side the smiling chief. This youth was evidently +in the height of fashion, his hair braided in a tight queue bound with +skin, his ears dangling with ornaments, heavy necklaces around his neck, +and armlets etc., ad lib. His robe was of fine monkey skin embroidered +with rosettes of beads, and his spear was very long, bright and keen. He +was tall and finely built carried himself with a free, lithe swing. As +the quintette came to halt, the villagers fell silent and our shauri +began. + +We drew up and dismounted. We all expectorated as gentlemen. + +“These,” said he proudly, “are my beebees.” + +We replied that they seemed like excellent beebees and politely inquired +the price of wives thereabout, and also the market for totos. He gave us +to understand that such superior wives as these brought three cows and +twenty sheep apiece, but that you could get a pretty good toto for half +a rupee. + +“When we look upon our women,” he concluded grandly, “we find them +good; but when we look upon the white women they are as nothing!” + He completely obliterated the poor little beebees with a magnificent +gesture. They looked very humble and abashed. I was, however, a bit +uncertain as to whether this was intended as a genuine tribute to Billy, +or was meant to console us for having only one to his four. + +Now observe the stagecraft of all this: entrance of diplomats, +preliminary conversation introducing the idea of the greatness of +N'Zahgi (for that was his name), chorus of villagers, and, as climax, +dramatic entrance of the hero and heroines. It was pretty well done. + +Again we stopped about the middle of the afternoon in an opening on the +rounded top of a hill. While waiting for the safari to come up, Billy +wandered away fifty or sixty yards to sit under a big tree. She did not +stay long. Immediately she was settled, a dozen women and young girls +surrounded her. They were almost uproariously good-natured, but Billy +was probably the first white woman they had ever seen, and they intended +to make the most of her. Every item of her clothes and equipment they +examined minutely, handled and discussed. When she told them with great +dignity to go away, they laughed consumedly, fairly tumbling into each +other's arms with excess of joy. Billy tried to gather her effects for a +masterly retreat, but found the press of numbers too great. At last she +had to signal for help. One of us wandered over with a kiboko with which +lightly he flicked the legs of such damsels as he could reach. They +scattered like quail, laughing hilariously. Billy was escorted back to +safety. + +Shortly after the Chief and his Prime Minister came in. He was a little +old gray-haired gentleman, as spry as a cricket, quite nervous, and very +chatty. We indicated our wants to him, and he retired after enunciating +many words. The safari came in, made camp. We had tea and a bath. The +darkness fell; and still no Chief, no milk, no firewood, no promises +fulfilled. There were plenty of natives around camp, but when we +suggested that they get out and rustle on our behalf, they merely +laughed good-naturedly. We seriously contemplated turning the whole lot +out of camp. + +Finally we gave it up, and sat down to our dinner. It was now quite +dark. The askaris had built a little campfire out in front. + +Then, far in the distance of the jungle's depths, we heard a faint +measured chanting as of many people coming nearer. From another +direction this was repeated. The two processions approached each other; +their paths converged; the double chanting became a chorus that grew +moment by moment. We heard beneath the wild weird minors the rhythmic +stamping of feet, and the tapping of sticks. The procession debouched +from the jungle's edge into the circle of the firelight. Our old chief +led, accompanied by a bodyguard in all the panoply of war: ostrich +feather circlets enclosing the head and face, shields of bright +heraldry, long glittering spears. These were followed by a dozen of the +quaintest solemn dolls of beebees dressed in all the white cowry shells, +beads and brass the royal treasury afforded, very earnest, very much +on inspection, every little head uplifted, singing away just as hard as +ever they could. Each carried a gourd of milk, a bunch of bananas, some +sugarcane, yams or the like. Straight to the fire marched the pageant. +Then the warriors dividing right and left, drew up facing each other +in two lines, struck their spears upright in the ground, and stood at +attention. The quaint brown little women lined up to close the end of +this hollow square, of which our group was, roughly speaking, the +fourth side. Then all came to attention. The song now rose to a wild +and ecstatic minor chanting. The beebees, still singing, one by one cast +their burdens between the files and at our feet in the middle of the +hollow square. Then they continued their chant, singing away at the tops +of their little lungs, their eyes and teeth showing, their pretty bodies +held rigidly upright. The warriors, very erect and military, stared +straight ahead. + +And the chief? Was he the centre of the show, the important leading man, +to the contemplation of whom all these glories led? Not at all! This +particular chief did not have the soul of a leading man, but rather the +soul of a stage manager. Quite forgetful of himself and his part in the +spectacle, his brow furrowed with anxiety, he was flittering from one to +another of the performers. He listened carefully to each singer in turn, +holding his hand behind his ear to catch the individual note, striking +one on the shoulder in admonition, nodding approval at another. He +darted unexpectedly across to scrutinize a warrior, in the chance of +catching a flicker of the eyelid even. Nary a flicker! They did their +stage manager credit, and stood like magnificent bronzes. He even ran +across to peer into our own faces to see how we liked it. + +With a sudden crescendo the music stopped. Involuntarily we broke +into handclapping. The old boy looked a bit startled at this, but we +explained to him, and he seemed very pleased. We then accepted formally +the heap of presents, by touching them-and in turn passed over a +blanket, a box of matches, and two needles, together with beads for the +beebees. Then F., on an inspiration, produced his flashlight. This made +a tremendous sensation. The women tittered and giggled and blinked as +its beams were thrown directly into their eyes; the chief's sons grinned +and guffawed; the chief himself laughed like a pleased schoolboy, and +seemed never to weary of the sudden shutting on and off of the switch. +But the trusty Spartan warriors, standing still in their formation +behind their planted spears, were not to be shaken. They glared straight +in front of them, even when we held the light within a few inches of +their eyes, and not a muscle quivered! + +“It is wonderful! wonderful!” the old man repeated. “Many Government men +have come here, but none have had anything like that! The bwanas must be +very great sultans!” + +After the departure of our friends, we went rather grandly to bed. We +always did after any one had called us sultans. + +But our prize chief was an individual named M'booley.* Our camp here +also was on a fine cleared hilltop between two streams. After we had +traded for a while with very friendly and prosperous people M'booley +came in. He was young, tall, straight, with a beautiful smooth lithe +form, and his face was hawklike and cleverly intelligent. He carried +himself with the greatest dignity and simplicity, meeting us on an easy +plane of familiarity. I do not know how I can better describe his manner +toward us than to compare it to the manner the member of an exclusive +golf club would use to one who is a stranger, but evidently a guest. He +took our quality for granted; and supposed we must do the same by him, +neither acting as though he considered us “great white men,” nor yet +standing aloof and too respectful. And as the distinguishing feature of +all, he was absolutely without personal ornament. + + * Pronounce each o separately. + +Pause for a moment to consider what a real advance in esthetic taste +that one little fact stands for. All M'booley's attendants were the +giddiest and gaudiest savages we had yet seen, with more colobus fur, +sleighbells, polished metal, ostrich plumes, and red paint than would +have fitted out any two other royal courts of the jungle. The women too +were wealthy and opulent without limit. It takes considerable perception +among our civilized people to realize that severe simplicity amid ultra +magnificence makes the most effective distinguishing of an individual. +If you do not believe it, drop in at the next ball to which you are +invited. M'booley had fathomed this, and what was more he had the +strength of mind to act on it. Any savage loves finery for its own +sake. His hair was cut short, and shaved away at the edges to leave what +looked like an ordinary close-fitting skull cap. He wore one pair of +plain armlets on his left upper arm and small simple ear-rings. His robe +was black. He had no trace of either oil or paint, nor did he even carry +a spear. + +He greeted us with good-humoured ease, and inquired conversationally if +we wanted anything. We suggested wood and milk, whereupon still +smiling, he uttered a few casual words in his own language to no one in +particular. There was no earthly doubt that he was chief. Three of the +most gorgeous and haughty warriors ran out of camp. Shortly long +files of women came in bringing loads of firewood; and others carrying +bananas, yams, sugarcane and a sheep. Truly M'booley did things on a +princely scale. We thanked him. He accepted the thanks with a casual +smile, waved his hand and went on to talk of something else. In due +order our M'ganga brought up one of our best trade blankets, to which we +added a half dozen boxes of matches and a razor. + +Now into camp filed a small procession: four women, four children, and +two young men. These advanced to where M'booley was standing smoking +with great satisfaction one of B's tailor-made cigarettes. M'booley +advanced ten feet to meet them, and brought them up to introduce them +one by one in the most formal fashion. These were of course his family, +and we had to confess that they “saw” N'Zahgi's outfit of ornaments and +“raised” him beyond the ceiling. We gave them each in turn the handshake +of ceremony, first with the palms as we do it, and then each grasping +the other's upright thumb. The “little chiefs” were proud, aristocratic +little fellows, holding themselves very straight and solemn. I think one +would have known them for royalty anywhere. + +It was quite a social occasion. None of our guests was in the least ill +at ease; in fact, the young ladies were quite coy and flirtatious. We +had a great many jokes. Each of the little ladies received a handful +of prevailing beads. M'booley smiled benignly at these delightful +femininities. After a time he led us to the edge of the hill and showed +us his houses across the cation, perched on a flat about halfway up the +wall. They were of the usual grass-thatched construction, but rather +larger and neater than most. Examining them through the glasses we saw +that a little stream had been diverted to flow through the front +yard. M'booley waved his hand abroad and gave us to understand that he +considered the outlook worth looking at. It was; but an appreciation of +that fact is foreign to the average native. Next morning, when we rode +by very early, we found the little flat most attractively cleared +and arranged. M'booley was out to shake us by the hand in farewell, +shivering in the cold of dawn. The flirtatious and spoiled little +beauties were not in evidence. + +One day after two very deep canyons we emerged from the forest jungle +into an up and down country of high jungle bush-brush. From the top +of a ridge it looked a good deal like a northern cut-over pine country +grown up very heavily to blackberry vines; although, of course, when +we came nearer, the “blackberry vines” proved to be ten or twenty feet +high. This was a district of which Horne had warned us. The natives +herein were reported restless and semi-hostile; and in fact had never +been friendly. They probably needed the demonstration most native tribes +seem to require before they are content to settle down and be happy. At +any rate safaris were not permitted in their district; and we ourselves +were allowed to go through merely because we were a large party, did not +intend to linger, and had a good reputation with natives. + +It is very curious how abruptly, in Central Africa, one passes from one +condition to another, from one tribe or race to the next. Sometimes, as +in the present case, it is the traversing of a deep cation; at others +the simple crossing of a tiny brook is enough. Moreover the line of +demarcation is clearly defined, as boundaries elsewhere are never +defined save in wartime. + +Thus we smiled our good-bye to a friendly numerous people, descended a +hill, and ascended another into a deserted track. After a half mile we +came unexpectedly on to two men carrying each a load of reeds. These +they abandoned and fled up the hillside through the jungle, in spite of +our shouted assurances. A moment later they reappeared at some distance +above us, each with a spear he had snatched from somewhere; they were +unarmed when we first caught sight of them. Examined through the glasses +they proved to be sullen looking men, copper coloured, but broad across +the cheekbones, broad in the forehead, more decidedly of the negro type +than our late hosts. + +Aside from these two men we travelled through an apparently deserted +jungle. I suspect, however, that we were probably well watched; for when +we stopped for noon we heard the gunbearers beyond the screen of leaves +talking to some one. On learning from our boys that these were some of +the shenzis, we told them to bring the savages in for a shauri; but in +this our men failed, nor could they themselves get nearer than fifty +yards or so to the wild people. So until evening our impression remained +that of two distant men, and the indistinct sound of voices behind a +leafy screen. + +We made camp comparatively early in a wide open space surrounded by low +forest. Almost immediately then the savages commenced to drift in, +very haughty and arrogant. They were fully armed. Besides the spear and +decorated shield, some of them carried the curious small grass spears. +These are used to stab upward from below, the wielder lying flat in the +grass. Some of these men were fantastically painted with a groundwork +ochre, on which had been drawn intricate wavy designs on the legs, +like stockings, and varied stripes across the face. One particularly +ingenious individual, stark naked, had outlined a roughly entire +skeleton! He was a gruesome object! They stalked here and there through +the camp, looking at our men and their activities with a lofty and +silent contempt. + +You may be sure we had our arrangements, though they did not appear on +the surface. The askaris, or native soldiers, were posted here and there +with their muskets; the gunbearers also kept our spare weapons by them. +The askaris could not hit a barn, but they could make a noise. The +gunbearers were fair shots. + +Of course the chief and his prime minister came in. They were +evil-looking savages. To them we paid not the slightest attention, but +went about our usual business as though they did not exist. At the end +of an hour they of their own initiative greeted us. We did not hear +them. Half an hour later they disappeared, to return after an interval, +followed by a string of young men bearing firewood. Evidently our +bearing had impressed them, as we had intended. We then unbent far +enough to recognize them, carried on a formal conversation for a few +moments, gave them adequate presents and dismissed them. Then we ordered +the askaris to clear camp and to keep it clear. No women had appeared. +Even the gifts of firewood had been carried by men, a most unusual +proceeding. + +As soon as dark fell the drums began roaring in the forest all about our +clearing, and the chanting to rise. We instructed our men to shoot first +and inquire afterward, if a shenzi so much as showed himself in the +clearing. This was not as bad as it sounded; the shenzi stood in no +immediate danger. Then we turned in to a sleep rather light and broken +by uncertainty. I do not think we were in any immediate danger of a +considered attack, for these people were not openly hostile; but there +was always a chance that the savages might by their drum pounding and +dancing work themselves into a frenzy. Then we might have to do a little +rapid shooting. Not for one instant the whole night long did those +misguided savages cease their howling and dancing. At any rate we cost +them a night's sleep. + +Next morning we took up our march through the deserted tracks once more. +Not a sign of human life did we encounter. About ten o'clock we climbed +down a tremendous gash of a box canyon with precipitous cliffs. From +below we looked back to see, perched high against the skyline, the +motionless figures of many savages watching us from the crags. So we had +had company after all, and we had not known it. This canyon proved to +be the boundary line. With the same abruptness we passed again into +friendly country. + +(d) OUT THE OTHER SIDE + +We left the jungle finally when we turned on a long angle away from +Kenia. At first the open country of the foothills was closely cultivated +with fields of rape and maize. We saw some of the people breaking new +soil by means of long pointed sticks. The plowmen quite simply inserted +the pointed end in the ground and pried. It was very slow hard work. In +other fields the grain stood high and good. From among the stalks, as +from a miniature jungle, the little naked totos stared out, and the +good-natured women smiled at us. The magnificent peak of Kenia had now +shaken itself free of the forests. On its snow the sunrises and sunsets +kindled their fires. The flames of grass fires, too, could plainly be +made out, incredible distances away, and at daytime, through the reek, +were fascinating suggestions of distant rivers, plains, jungles, and +hills. You see, we were still practically on the wide slope of Kenia's +base, though the peak was many days away, and so could look out over +wide country. + +The last half day of this we wandered literally in a rape field. The +stalks were quite above our heads, and we could see but a few yards in +any direction. In addition the track had become a footpath not over two +feet wide. We could occasionally look back to catch glimpses of a pack +or so bobbing along on a porter's head. From our own path hundreds of +other paths branched; we were continually taking the wrong fork and +moving back to set the safari right before it could do likewise. This we +did by drawing a deep double line in the earth across the wrong trail. +Then we hustled on ahead to pioneer the way a little farther; our +difficulties were further complicated by the fact that we had sent our +horses back to Nairobi for fear of the tsetse fly, so we could not see +out above the corn. All we knew was that we ought to go down hill. + +At the ends of some of our false trails we came upon fascinating little +settlements: groups of houses inside brush enclosures, with low wooden +gateways beneath which we had to stoop to enter. Within were groups of +beehive houses with small naked children and perhaps an old woman or old +man seated cross-legged under a sort of veranda. From them we obtained +new-and confusing-directions. + +After three o'clock we came finally out on the edge of a cliff fifty or +sixty feet high, below which lay uncultivated bottom lands like a great +meadow and a little meandering stream. We descended the cliff, and +camped by the meandering stream. + +By this time we were fairly tired from long walking in the heat, and so +were content to sit down under our tent-fly before our little table, and +let Mahomet bring us sparklets and lime juice. Before us was the flat of +a meadow below the cliffs and the cliffs themselves. Just below the rise +lay a single patch of standing rape not over two acres in extent, the +only sign of human life. It was as though this little bit had overflowed +from the countless millions on the plateau above. Beyond it arose a thin +signal of smoke. + +We sipped our lime juice and rested. Soon our attention was attracted +by the peculiar actions of a big flock of very white birds. They rose +suddenly from one side of the tiny rape field, wheeled and swirled like +leaves in the wind, and dropped down suddenly on the other side the +patch. After a few moments they repeated the performance. The sun caught +the dazzling white of their plumage. At first we speculated on what +they might be, then on what they were doing, to behave in so peculiar +a manner. The lime juice and the armchair began to get in their +recuperative work. Somehow the distance across that flat did not seem +quite as tremendous as at first. Finally I picked up the shotgun and +sauntered across to investigate. The cause of action I soon determined. +The owner of that rape field turned out to be an emaciated, gray-haired +but spry old savage. He was armed with a spear; and at the moment his +chief business in life seemed to be chasing a large flock of white birds +off his grain. Since he had no assistance, and since the birds held his +spear in justifiable contempt as a fowling piece, he was getting much +exercise and few results. The birds gave way before his direct charge, +flopped over to the other side, and continued their meal. They had +already occasioned considerable damage; the rape heads were bent and +destroyed for a space of perhaps ten feet from the outer edge of the +field. As this grain probably constituted the old man's food supply +for a season, I did not wonder at the vehemence with which he shook his +spear at his enemies, nor the apparent flavour of his language, though I +did marvel at his physical endurance. As for the birds, they had become +cynical and impudent; they barely fluttered out of the way. + +I halted the old gentleman and hastened to explain that I was neither a +pirate, a robber, nor an oppressor of the poor. This as counter-check to +his tendency to flee, leaving me in sole charge. He understood a little +Swahili, and talked a few words of something he intended for that +language. By means of our mutual accomplishment in that tongue, and +through a more efficient sign language, I got him to understand the plan +of campaign. It was very simple. I squatted down inside the rape, while +he went around the other side to scare them up. + +The white birds uttered their peculiarly derisive cackle at the old man +and flapped over to my side. Then they were certainly an astonished +lot of birds. I gave them both barrels and dropped a pair; got two more +shots as they swung over me and dropped another pair, and brought down a +straggling single as a grand finale. The flock, with shrill, derogatory +remarks, flew in an airline straight away. They never deviated, as far +as I could follow them with the eye. Even after they had apparently +disappeared, I could catch an occasional flash of white in the sun. + +Now the old gentleman came whooping around with long, undignified bounds +to fall on his face and seize my foot in an excess of gratitude. He rose +and capered about, he rushed out and gathered in the slain one by one +and laid them in a pile at my feet. Then he danced a jig-step around +them and reviled them, and fell on his face once more, repeating the +word “Bwana! bwana! bwana!” over and over-“Master! master! master!” We +returned to camp together, the old gentleman carrying the birds, and +capering about like a small boy, pouring forth a flood of his sort of +Swahili, of which I could understand only a word here and there. Memba +Sasa, very dignified and scornful of such performances, met us halfway +and took my gun. He seemed to be able to understand the old fellow's +brand of Swahili, and said it over again in a brand I could understand. +From it I gathered that I was called a marvellously great sultan, a +protector of the poor, and other Arabian Nights titles. + +The birds proved to be white egrets. Now at home I am strongly against +the killing of these creatures, and have so expressed myself on many +occasions. But, looking from the beautiful white plumage of these +villainous mauraders, to the wrinkled countenance of the grateful weary +old savage, I could not fan a spark of regret. And from the straight +line of their retreating flight I like to think that the rest of the +flock never came back, but took their toll from the wider fields of the +plateau above. + +Next day we reentered the game-haunted wilderness, nor did we see any +more native villages until many weeks later we came into the country of +the Wakamba. + + + + + +XIX. THE TANA RIVER + +Our first sight of the Tana River was from the top of a bluff. It flowed +below us a hundred feet, bending at a sharp elbow against the cliff +on which we stood. Out of the jungle it crept sluggishly and into the +jungle it crept again, brown, slow, viscid, suggestive of the fevers and +the lurking beasts by which, indeed, it was haunted. From our elevation +we could follow its course by the jungle that grew along its banks. +At first this was intermittent, leaving thin or even open spaces at +intervals, but lower down it extended away unbroken and very tall. The +trees were many of them beginning to come into flower. + +Either side of the jungle were rolling hills. Those to the left made up +to the tremendous slopes of Kenia. Those to the right ended finally in +a low broken range many miles away called the Ithanga Hills. The country +gave one the impression of being clothed with small trees; although +here and there this growth gave space to wide grassy plains. Later we +discovered that the forest was more apparent than real. The small trees, +even where continuous, were sparse enough to permit free walking in all +directions, and open enough to allow clear sight for a hundred yards or +so. Furthermore, the shallow wide valleys between the hills were almost +invariably treeless and grown to very high thick grass. + +Thus the course of the Tana possessed advantages to such as we. By +following in general the course of the stream we were always certain +of wood and water. The river itself was full of fish-not to speak of +hundreds of crocodiles and hippopotamuses. The thick river jungle gave +cover to such animals as the bushbuck, leopard, the beautiful colobus, +some of the tiny antelope, waterbuck, buffalo and rhinoceros. Among +the thorn and acacia trees of the hillsides one was certain of impalla, +eland, diks-diks, and giraffes. In the grass bottoms were lions, +rhinoceroses, a half dozen varieties of buck, and thousands and +thousands of game birds such as guinea fowl and grouse. On the plains +fed zebra, hartebeeste, wart-hog, ostriches, and several species of the +smaller antelope. As a sportsman's paradise this region would be hard to +beat. + +We were now afoot. The dreaded tsetse fly abounded here, and we had +sent our horses in via Fort Hall. F. had accompanied them, and hoped to +rejoin us in a few days or weeks with tougher and less valuable mules. +Pending his return we moved on leisurely, camping long at one spot, +marching short days, searching the country far and near for the special +trophies of which we stood in need. + +It was great fun. Generally we hunted each in his own direction and +according to his own ideas. The jungle along the river, while not the +most prolific in trophies, was by all odds the most interesting. It was +very dense, very hot, and very shady. Often a thorn thicket would fling +itself from the hills right across to the water's edge, absolutely and +hopelessly impenetrable save by way of the rhinoceros tracks. Along +these then we would slip, bent double, very quietly and gingerly, +keeping a sharp lookout for the rightful owners of the trail. Again +we would wander among lofty trees through the tops of which the sun +flickered on festooned serpent-like vines. Every once in a while we +managed a glimpse of the sullen oily river through the dense leaf screen +on its banks. The water looked thick as syrup, of a deadly menacing +green. Sometimes we saw a loathsome crocodile lying with his nose just +out of water, or heard the snorting blow of a hippopotamus coming up for +air. Then the thicket forced us inland again. We stepped very slowly, +very alertly, our ears cocked for the faintest sound, our eyes roving. +Generally, of course, the creatures of the jungle saw us first. We +became aware of them by a crash or a rustling or a scamper. Then we +stood stock listening with all our ears for some sound distinguishing +to the species. Thus I came to recognize the queer barking note of the +bushbuck, for example, and to realize how profane and vulgar that and +the beautiful creature, the impalla, can be when he forgets himself. As +for the rhinoceros, he does not care how much noise he makes, nor how +badly he scares you. + +Personally, I liked very well to circle out in the more open country +until about three o'clock, then to enter the river jungle and work +my way slowly back toward camp. At that time of day the shadows were +lengthening, the birds and animals were beginning to stir about. In +the cooling nether world of shadow we slipped silently from thicket +to thicket, from tree to tree; and the jungle people fled from us, or +withdrew, or gazed curiously, or cursed us as their dispositions varied. + +While thus returning one evening I saw my first colobus. He was swinging +rapidly from one tree to another, his long black and white fur shining +against the sun. I wanted him very much, and promptly let drive at him +with the 405 Winchester. I always carried this heavier weapon in the +dense jungle. Of course I missed him, but the roar of the shot so +surprised him that he came to a stand. Memba Sasa passed me the +Springfield, and I managed to get him in the head. At the shot another +flashed into view, high up in the top of a tree. Again I aimed and +fired. The beast let go and fell like a plummet. “Good shot,” said I to +myself. Fifty feet down the colobus seized a limb and went skipping away +through the branches as lively as ever. In a moment he stopped to look +back, and by good luck I landed him through the body. When we retrieved +him we found that the first shot had not hit him at all! + +At the time I thought he must have been frightened into falling; but +many subsequent experiences showed me that this sheer let-go-all-holds +drop is characteristic of the colobus and his mode of progression. He +rarely, as far as my observation goes, leaps out and across as do +the ordinary monkeys, but prefers to progress by a series of slanting +ascents followed by breath-taking straight drops to lower levels. When +closely pressed from beneath, he will go as high as he can, and will +then conceal himself in the thick leaves. + +B. and I procured our desired number of colobus by taking advantage of +this habit-as soon as we had learned it. Shooting the beasts with our +rifles we soon found to be not only very difficult, but also destructive +of the skins. On the other hand, a man could not, save by sheer good +fortune, rely on stalking near enough to use a shotgun. Therefore we +evolved a method productive of the maximum noise, row, barked shins, +thorn wounds, tumbles, bruises-and colobus! It was very simple. We took +about twenty boys into the jungle with us, and as soon as we caught +sight of a colobus we chased him madly. That was all there was to it. + +And yet this method, simple apparently to the point of imbecility, +had considerable logic back of it after all; for after a time somebody +managed to get underneath that colobus when he was at the top of a tree. +Then the beast would hide. + +Consider then a tumbling riotous mob careering through the jungle as +fast as the jungle would let it, slipping, stumbling, falling flat, +getting tangled hopelessly, disentangling with profane remarks, falling +behind and catching up again, everybody yelling and shrieking. Ahead of +us we caught glimpses of the sleek bounding black and white creature, +running up the long slanting limbs, and dropping like a plummet into the +lower branches of the next tree. We white men never could keep up with +the best of our men at this sort of work, although in the open country I +could hold them well enough. We could see them dashing through the thick +cover at a great rate of speed far ahead of us. After an interval came +a great shout in chorus. By this we knew that the quarry had been +definitely brought to a stand. Arriving at the spot we craned our heads +backward, and proceeded to get a crick in the neck trying to make out +invisible colobus in the very tops of the trees above us. For gaudily +marked beasts the colobus were extraordinarily difficult to see. This +was in no sense owing to any far-fetched application of protective +colouration; but to the remarkable skill the animals possessed +in concealing themselves behind apparently the scantiest and most +inadequate cover. Fortunately for us our boys' ability to see them was +equally remarkable. Indeed, the most difficult part of their task was to +point the game out to us. We squinted, and changed position, and tried +hard to follow directions eagerly proffered by a dozen of the men. +Finally one of us would, by the aid of six power-glasses, make out, +or guess at a small tuft of white or black hair showing beyond the +concealment of a bunch of leaves. We would unlimber the shotgun and send +a charge of BB into that bunch. Then down would plump the game, to +the huge and vociferous delight of all the boys. Or, as occasionally +happened, the shot was followed merely by a shower of leaves and a +chorus of expostulations indicating that we had mistaken the place, and +had fired into empty air. + +In this manner we gathered the twelve we required between us. At noon +we sat under the bank, with the tangled roots of trees above us, and the +smooth oily river slipping by. You may be sure we always selected a +spot protected by very shoal water, for the crocodiles were numerous. I +always shot these loathsome creatures whenever I got a chance, whenever +the sound of a shot would not alarm more valuable game. Generally they +were to be seen in midstream, just the tip of their snouts above water, +and extraordinarily like anything but crocodiles. Often it took several +close scrutinies through the glass to determine the brutes. This +required rather nice shooting. More rarely we managed to see them on the +banks, or only half submerged. In this position, too, they were all but +undistinguishable as living creatures. I think this is perhaps because +of their complete immobility. The creatures of the woods, standing quite +still, are difficult enough to see; but I have a notion that the eye, +unknown to itself, catches the sum total of little flexings of the +muscles, movements of the skin, winkings, even the play of wind and +light in the hair of the coat, all of which, while impossible of +analysis, together relieve the appearance of dead inertia. The vitality +of a creature like the crocodile, however, seems to have withdrawn into +the inner recesses of its being. It lies like a log of wood, and for a +log of wood it is mistaken. + +Nevertheless the crocodile has stored in it somewhere a fearful +vitality. The swiftness of its movements when seizing prey is most +astonishing; a swirl of water, the sweep of a powerful tail, and the +unfortunate victim has disappeared. For this reason it is especially +dangerous to approach the actual edge of any of the great rivers, unless +the water is so shallow that the crocodile could not possibly approach +under cover, as is its cheerful habit. We had considerable difficulty in +impressing this elementary truth on our hill-bred totos until one day, +hearing wild shrieks from the direction of the river, I rushed down +to find the lot huddled together in the very middle of a sand spit +that-reached well out into the stream. Inquiry developed that while +paddling in the shallows they had been surprised by the sudden +appearance of an ugly snout and well drenched by the sweep of an eager +tail. The stroke fortunately missed. We stilled the tumult, sat down +quietly to wait, and at the end of ten minutes had the satisfaction of +abating that croc. + +Generally we killed the brutes where we found them and allowed them to +drift away with the current. Occasionally however we wanted a piece of +hide, and then tried to retrieve them. One such occasion showed very +vividly the tenacity of life and the primitive nervous systems of these +great saurians. + +I discovered the beast, head out of water, in a reasonable sized pool +below which were shallow rapids. My Springfield bullet hit him fair, +whereupon he stood square on his head and waved his tail in the air, +rolled over three or four times, thrashed the water, and disappeared. +After waiting a while we moved on downstream. Returning four hours later +I sneaked up quietly. There the crocodile lay sunning himself on the +sand bank. I supposed he must be dead; but when I accidentally broke a +twig, he immediately commenced to slide off into the water. Thereupon +I stopped him with a bullet in the spine. The first shot had smashed +a hole in his head, just behind the eye, about the size of an ordinary +coffee cup. In spite of this wound, which would have been instantly +fatal to any warm-blooded animal, the creature was so little affected +that it actually reacted to a slight noise made at some distance from +where it lay. Of course the wound would probably have been fatal in the +long run. + +The best spot to shoot at, indeed, is not the head but the spine +immediately back of the head. + +These brutes are exceedingly powerful. They are capable of taking down +horses and cattle, with no particular effort. This I know from my +own observation. Mr. Fleischman, however, was privileged to see +the wonderful sight of the capture and destruction of a full-grown +rhinoceros by a crocodile. The photographs he took of this most +extraordinary affair leave no room for doubt. Crossing a stream was +always a matter of concern to us. The boys beat the surface of the water +vigorously with their safari sticks. On occasion we have even let loose +a few heavy bullets to stir up the pool before venturing in. + +A steep climb through thorn and brush would always extricate us from the +river jungle when we became tired of it. Then we found ourselves in a +continuous but scattered growth of small trees. Between the trunks of +these we could see for a hundred yards or so before their numbers closed +in the view. Here was the favourite haunt of numerous beautiful impalla. +We caught glimpses of them, flashing through the trees; or occasionally +standing, gazing in our direction, their slender necks stretched high, +their ears pointed for us. These curious ones were generally the does. +The bucks were either more cautious or less inquisitive. A herd or so +of eland also liked this covered country; and there were always a +few waterbuck and rhinoceroses about. Often too we here encountered +stragglers from the open plains-zebra or hartebeeste, very alert and +suspicious in unaccustomed surroundings. + +A great deal of the plains country had been burned over; and a +considerable area was still afire. The low bright flames licked their +way slowly through the grass in a narrow irregular band extending +sometimes for miles. Behind it was blackened soil, and above it rolled +dense clouds of smoke. Always accompanied it thousands of birds wheeling +and dashing frantically in and out of the murk, often fairly at the +flames themselves. The published writings of a certain worthy and +sentimental person waste much sympathy over these poor birds dashing +frenziedly about above their destroyed nests. As a matter of fact they +are taking greedy advantage of a most excellent opportunity to get +insects cheap. Thousands of the common red-billed European storks +patrolled the grass just in front of the advancing flames, or wheeled +barely above the fire. Grasshoppers were their main object, although +apparently they never objected to any small mammals or reptiles that +came their way. Far overhead wheeled a few thousand more assorted +soarers who either had no appetite or had satisfied it. + +The utter indifference of the animals to the advance of a big +conflagration always impressed me. One naturally pictures the beasts as +fleeing wildly, nostrils distended, before the devouring element. On +the contrary I have seen kongoni grazing quite peacefully with flames on +three sides of them. The fire seems to travel rather slowly in the tough +grass; although at times and for a short distance it will leap to a wild +and roaring life. Beasts will then lope rapidly away to right or left, +but without excitement. + +On these open plains we were more or less pestered with ticks of +various sizes. These clung to the grass blades; but with no invincible +preference for that habitat; trousers did them just as well. Then they +ascended looking for openings. They ranged in size from little red ones +as small as the period of a printed page to big patterned fellows the +size of a pea. The little ones were much the most abundant. At times +I have had the front of my breeches so covered with them that their +numbers actually imparted a reddish tinge to the surface of the cloth. +This sounds like exaggeration, but it is a measured statement. The +process of de-ticking (new and valuable word) can then be done only by +scraping with the back of a hunting knife. + +Some people, of tender skin, are driven nearly frantic by these pests. +Others, of whom I am thankful to say I am one, get off comparatively +easy. In a particularly bad tick country, one generally appoints one of +the youngsters as “tick toto.” It is then his job in life to de-tick +any person or domestic animal requiring his services. His is a busy +existence. But though at first the nuisance is excessive, one becomes +accustomed to it in a remarkably short space of time. The adaptability +of the human being is nowhere better exemplified. After a time one gets +so that at night he can remove a marauding tick and cast it forth into +the darkness without even waking up. Fortunately ticks are local +in distribution. Often one may travel weeks or months without this +infliction. + +I was always interested and impressed to observe how indifferent the +wild animals seem to be to these insects. Zebra, rhinoceros and giraffe +seem to be especially good hosts. The loathsome creatures fasten +themselves in clusters wherever they can grip their fangs. Thus in +a tick country a zebra's ears, the lids and corners of his eyes, his +nostrils and lips, the soft skin between his legs and body, and between +his hind legs, and under his tail are always crusted with ticks as +thick as they can cling. One would think the drain on vitality would be +enormous, but the animals are always plump and in condition. The +same state of affairs obtains with the other two beasts named. The +hartebeeste also carries ticks but not nearly in the same abundance; +while such creatures as the waterbuck, impalla, gazelles and the smaller +bucks seem either to be absolutely free from the pests, or to have a +very few. Whether this is because such animals take the trouble to rid +themselves, or because they are more immune from attack it would be +difficult to say. I have found ticks clinging to the hair of lions, but +never fastened to the flesh. It is probable that they had been brushed +off from the grass in passing. Perhaps ticks do not like lions, +waterbuck, Tommies, et al., or perhaps only big coarse-grained common +brutes like zebra and rhinos will stand them at all. + + + + + +XX. DIVERS ADVENTURES ALONG THE TANA + +Late one afternoon I shot a wart-hog in the tall grass. The beast was an +unusually fine specimen, so I instructed Fundi and the porters to take +the head, and myself started for camp with Memba Sasa. I had gone not +over a hundred yards when I was recalled by wild and agonized appeals of +“Bwana! bwana!” The long-legged Fundi was repeatedly leaping straight +up in the air to an astonishing height above the long grass, curling +his legs up under him at each jump, and yelling like a steam-engine. +Returning promptly, I found that the wart-hog had come to life at the +first prick of the knife. He was engaged in charging back and forth in +an earnest effort to tusk Fundi, and the latter was jumping high in an +equally earnest effort to keep out of the way. Fortunately he proved +agile enough to do so until I planted another bullet in the aggressor. + +These wart-hogs are most comical brutes from whatever angle one views +them. They have a patriarchal, self-satisfied, suburban manner of +complete importance. The old gentleman bosses his harem outrageously, +and each and every member of the tribe walks about with short steps and +a stuffy parvenu small-town self-sufficiency. One is quite certain that +it is only by accident that they have long tusks and live in Africa, +instead of rubber-plants and self-made business and a pug-dog within +commuters' distance of New York. But at the slightest alarm this swollen +and puffy importance breaks down completely. Away they scurry, their +tails held stiffly and straightly perpendicular, their short legs +scrabbling the small stones in a frantic effort to go faster than nature +had intended them to go. Nor do they cease their flight at a reasonable +distance, but keep on going over hill and dale, until they fairly vanish +in the blue. I used to like starting them off this way, just for the +sake of contrast, and also for the sake of the delicious but impossible +vision of seeing their human prototypes do likewise. + +When a wart-hog is at home, he lives down a hole. Of course it has to +be a particularly large hole. He turns around and backs down it. No +more peculiar sight can be imagined than the sardonically toothsome +countenance of a wart-hog fading slowly in the dimness of a deep burrow, +a good deal like Alice's Cheshire Cat. Firing a revolver, preferably +with smoky black powder, just in front of the hole annoys the wart-hog +exceedingly. Out he comes full tilt, bent on damaging some one, and it +takes quick shooting to prevent his doing so. + +Once, many hundreds of miles south of the Tana, and many months later, +we were riding quite peaceably through the country, when we were +startled by the sound of a deep and continuous roaring in a small brush +patch to our left. We advanced cautiously to a prospective lion, only +to discover that the roaring proceeded from the depths of a wart-hog +burrow. The reverberation of our footsteps on the hollow ground had +alarmed him. He was a very nervous wart-hog. + +On another occasion, when returning to camp from a solitary walk, I saw +two wart-hogs before they saw me. I made no attempt to conceal myself, +but stood absolutely motionless. They fed slowly nearer and nearer until +at last they were not over twenty yards away. When finally they made +me out, their indignation and amazement and utter incredulity were very +funny. In fact, they did not believe in me at all for some few snorty +moments. Finally they departed, their absurd tails stiff upright. + + +One afternoon F. and I, hunting along one of the wide grass bottom +lands, caught sight of a herd of an especially fine impalla. The animals +were feeding about fifty yards the other side of a small solitary bush, +and the bush grew on the sloping bank of the slight depression +that represented the dry stream bottom. We could duck down into the +depression, sneak along it, come up back of the little bush, and shoot +from very close range. Leaving the gunbearers, we proceeded to do this. + +So quietly did we move that when we rose up back of the little bush a +lioness lying under it with her cub was as surprised as we were! + +Indeed, I do not think she knew what we were, for instead of attacking, +she leaped out the other side the bush, uttering a startled snarl. At +once she whirled to come at us, but the brief respite had allowed us +to recover our own scattered wits. As she turned I caught her broadside +through the heart. Although this shot knocked her down, F. immediately +followed it with another for safety's sake. We found that actually we +had just missed stepping on her tail! + +The cub we caught a glimpse of. He was about the size of a setter dog. +We tried hard to find him, but failed. The lioness was an unusually +large one, probably about as big as the female ever grows, measuring +nine feet six inches in length, and three feet eight inches tail at the +shoulder. + +Billy had her funny times housekeeping. The kitchen department never +quite ceased marvelling at her. Whenever she went to the cook-camp to +deliver her orders she was surrounded by an attentive and respectful +audience. One day, after holding forth for some time in Swahili, she +found that she had been standing hobnailed on one of the boy's feet. + +“Why, Mahomet!” she cried. “That must hurt you! Why didn't you tell me?” + +“Memsahib,” he smiled politely, “I think perhaps you move some time!” + +On another occasion she was trying to tell the cook, through Mahomet +as interpreter, that she wanted a tough old buffalo steak pounded, +boarding-house style. This evidently puzzled all hands. They turned +to in an earnest discussion of what it was all about, anyway. Billy +understood Swahili well enough at that time to gather that they could +not understand the Memsahib's wanting the meat “kibokoed”--FLOGGED. Was +it a religious rite, or a piece of revenge? They gave it up. + +“All right,” said Mahomet patiently at last. “He say he do it. WHICH ONE +IS IT?” + +Part of our supplies comprised tins of dehydrated fruit. One evening +Billy decided to have a grand celebration, so she passed out a +tin marked “rhubarb” and some cornstarch, together with suitable +instructions for a fruit pudding. In a little while the cook returned. + +“Nataka m'tund-I want fruit,” said he. + +Billy pointed out, severely, that he already had fruit. He went away +shaking his head. Evening and the pudding came. It looked good, and we +congratulated Billy on her culinary enterprise. Being hungry, we took +big mouthfuls. There followed splutterings and investigations. The +rhubarb can proved to be an old one containing heavy gun grease! + +When finally we parted with our faithful cook we bought him a really +wonderful many bladed knife as a present. On seeing it he slumped to the +ground-six feet of lofty dignity-and began to weep violently, rocking +back and forth in an excess of grief. + +“Why, what is it?” we inquired, alarmed. + +“Oh, Memsahib!” he wailed, the tears coursing down his cheeks, “I wanted +a watch!” + + +One morning about nine o'clock we were riding along at the edge of a +grass-grown savannah, with a low hill to our right and another about +four hundred yards ahead. Suddenly two rhinoceroses came to their feet +some fifty yards to our left out in the high grass, and stood looking +uncertainly in our direction. + +“Look out! Rhinos!” I warned instantly. + +“Why-why!” gasped Billy in an astonished tone of voice, “they have +manes!” + +In some concern for her sanity I glanced in her direction. She was +staring, not to her left, but straight ahead. I followed the direction +of her gaze, to see three lions moving across the face of the hill. + +Instantly we dropped off our horses. We wanted a shot at those +lions very much indeed, but were hampered in our efforts by the +two rhinoceroses, now stamping, snorting, and moving slowly in our +direction. The language we muttered was racy, but we dropped to a +kneeling position and opened fire on the disappearing lions. It was +most distinctly a case of divided attention, one eye on those menacing +rhinos, and one trying to attend to the always delicate operation of +aligning sights and signalling from a rather distracted brain just when +to pull the trigger. Our faithful gunbearers crouched by us, the heavy +guns ready. + +One rhino seemed either peaceable or stupid. He showed no inclination +either to attack or to depart, but was willing to back whatever play his +friend might decide on. The friend charged toward us until we began to +think he meant battle, stopped, thought a moment, and then, followed by +his companion, trotted slowly across our bows about eighty yards away, +while we continued our long range practice at the lions over their +backs. + +In this we were not winning many cigars. F. had a 280-calibre rifle +shooting the Ross cartridge through the much advertised grooveless oval +bore. It was little accurate beyond a hundred yards. Memba Sasa had +thrust the 405 into my hand, knowing it for the “lion gun,” and kept +just out of reach with the long-range Springfield. I had no time to +argue the matter with him. The 405 has a trajectory like a rainbow +at that distance, and I was guessing at it, and not making very good +guesses either. B. had his Springfield and made closer practice, finally +hitting a leg of one of the beasts. We saw him lift his paw and shake +it, but he did not move lamely afterward, so the damage was probably +confined to a simple scrape. It was a good shot anyway. Then they +disappeared over the top of the hill. + +We walked forward, regretting rhinos. Thirty yards ahead of me came a +thunderous and roaring growl, and a magnificent old lion reared his head +from a low bush. He evidently intended mischief, for I could see his +tail switching. However, B. had killed only one lion and I wanted very +much to give him the shot. Therefore, I held the front sight on the +middle of his chest, and uttered a fervent wish to myself that B. would +hurry up. In about ten seconds the muzzle of his rifle poked over my +shoulder, so I resigned the job. + +At B.'s shot the lion fell over, but was immediately up and trying to +get at us. Then we saw that his hind quarters were paralyzed. He was +a most magnificent sight as he reared his fine old head, roaring at us +full mouthed so that the very air trembled. Billy had a good look at a +lion in action. B. took up a commanding position on an ant hill to one +side with his rifle levelled. F. and I advanced slowly side by side. +At twelve feet from the wounded beast stopped, F. unlimbered the kodak, +while I held the bead of the 405 between the lion's eyes, ready to press +trigger at the first forward movement, however slight. Thus we took +several exposures in the two cameras. Unfortunately one of the cameras +fell in the river the next day. The other contained but one exposure. +While not so spectacular as some of those spoiled, it shows very well +the erect mane, the wicked narrowing of the eyes, the flattening of the +ears of an angry lion. You must imagine, furthermore, the deep rumbling +diapason of his growling. + +We backed away, and B. put in the finishing shot. The first bullet, +we then found, had penetrated the kidneys, thus inflicting a temporary +paralysis. + +When we came to skin him we found an old-fashioned lead bullet between +the bones of his right forepaw. The entrance wound had so entirely +healed over that hardly the trace of a scar remained. From what I know +of the character of these beasts, I have no doubt that this ancient +injury furnished the reason for his staying to attack us instead of +departing with the other three lions over the hill. + + +Following the course of the river, we one afternoon came around a bend +on a huge herd of mixed game that had been down to water. The river, +a quite impassable barrier lay to our right, and an equally impassable +precipitous ravine barred their flight ahead. They were forced to cross +our front, quite close, within the hundred yards. We stopped to watch +them go, a seemingly endless file of them, some very much frightened, +bounding spasmodically as though stung; others more philosophical, +loping easily and unconcernedly; still others to a few-even stopping for +a moment to get a good view of us. The very young creatures, as always, +bounced along absolutely stiff-legged, exactly like wooden animals +suspended by an elastic, touching the ground and rebounding high, +without a bend of the knee nor an apparent effort of the muscles. +Young animals seem to have to learn how to bend their legs for the most +efficient travel. The same is true of human babies as well. In this herd +were, we estimated, some four or five hundred beasts. + + +While hunting near the foothills I came across the body of a large eagle +suspended by one leg from the crotch of a limb. The bird's talon had +missed its grip, probably on alighting, the tarsus had slipped through +the crotch beyond the joint, the eagle had fallen forward, and had never +been able to flop itself back to an upright position! + + + + + +XXI. THE RHINOCEROS + +The rhinoceros is, with the giraffe, the hippopotamus, the gerenuk, and +the camel, one of Africa's unbelievable animals. Nobody has bettered +Kipling's description of him in the Just-so Stories: “A horn on his +nose, piggy eyes, and few manners.” He lives a self-centred life, +wrapped up in the porcine contentment that broods within nor looks +abroad over the land. When anything external to himself and his food +and drink penetrates to his intelligence he makes a flurried fool of +himself, rushing madly and frantically here and there in a hysterical +effort either to destroy or get away from the cause of disturbance. He +is the incarnation of a living and perpetual Grouch. + +Generally he lives by himself, sometimes with his spouse, more rarely +still with a third that is probably a grown-up son or daughter. I +personally have never seen more than three in company. Some observers +have reported larger bands, or rather collections, but, lacking other +evidence, I should be inclined to suspect that some circumstances of +food or water rather than a sense of gregariousness had attracted a +number of individuals to one locality. + +The rhinoceros has three objects in life: to fill his stomach with food +and water, to stand absolutely motionless under a bush, and to imitate +ant hills when he lies down in the tall grass. When disturbed at any +of these occupations he snorts. The snort sounds exactly as though the +safety valve of a locomotive had suddenly opened and as suddenly shut +again after two seconds of escaping steam. Then he puts his head down +and rushes madly in some direction, generally upwind. As he weighs +about two tons, and can, in spite of his appearance, get over the ground +nearly as fast as an ordinary horse, he is a truly imposing sight, +especially since the innocent bystander generally happens to be upwind, +and hence in the general path of progress. This is because the rhino's +scent is his keenest sense, and through it he becomes aware, in the +majority of times, of man's presence. His sight is very poor indeed; he +cannot see clearly even a moving object much beyond fifty yards. He can, +however, hear pretty well. + +The novice, then, is subjected to what he calls a “vicious charge” on +the part of the rhinoceros, merely because his scent was borne to the +beast from upwind, and the rhino naturally runs away upwind. He opens +fire, and has another thrilling adventure to relate. As a matter of +fact, if he had approached from the other side, and then aroused the +animal with a clod of earth, the beast would probably have “charged” + away in identically the same direction. I am convinced from a fairly +varied experience that this is the basis for most of the thrilling +experiences with rhinoceroses. + +But whatever the beast's first mental attitude, the danger is quite +real. In the beginning he rushes, upwind in instinctive reaction against +the strange scent. If he catches sight of the man at all, it must be +after he has approached to pretty close range, for only at close range +are the rhino's eyes effective. Then he is quite likely to finish what +was at first a blind dash by a genuine charge. Whether this is from +malice or from the panicky feeling that he is now too close to attempt +to get away, I never was able determine. It is probably in the majority +of cases the latter. This seems indicated by the fact that the rhino, if +avoided in his first rush, will generally charge right through and keep +on going. Occasionally, however, he will whirl and come back to the +attack. There can then be no doubt that he actually intends mischief. + +Nor must it be forgotten that with these animals, AS WITH ALL OTHERS, +not enough account is taken of individual variation. They, as well as +man, and as well as other animals, have their cowards, their fighters, +their slothful and their enterprising. And, too, there seem to be +truculent and peaceful districts. North of Mt. Kenia, between that peak +and the Northern Guaso Nyero River, we saw many rhinos, none of which +showed the slightest disposition to turn ugly. In fact, they were so +peaceful that they scrabbled off as fast as they could go every time +they either scented, heard, or SAW us; and in their flight they held +their noses up, not down. In the wide angle between the Tana and Thika +rivers, and comprising the Yatta Plains, and in the thickets of the +Tsavo, the rhinoceroses generally ran nose down in a position of attack +and were much inclined to let their angry passions master them at the +sight of man. Thus we never had our safari scattered by rhinoceroses +in the former district, while in the latter the boys were up trees six +times in the course of one morning! Carl Akeley, with a moving picture +machine, could not tease a charge out of a rhino in a dozen tries, while +Dugmore, in a different part of the country, was so chivied about that +he finally left the district to avoid killing any more of the brutes in +self-defence! + +The fact of the matter is that the rhinoceros is neither animated by the +implacable man-destroying passion ascribed to him by the amateur hunter, +nor is he so purposeless and haphazard in his rushes as some would have +us believe. On being disturbed his instinct is to get away. He generally +tries to get away in the direction of the disturbance, or upwind, as the +case may be. If he catches sight of the cause of disturbance he is apt +to try to trample and gore it, whatever it is. As his sight is short, +he will sometimes so inflict punishment on unoffending bushes. In doing +this he is probably not animated by a consuming destructive blind rage, +but by a naturally pugnacious desire to eliminate sources of annoyance. +Missing a definite object, he thunders right through and disappears +without trying again to discover what has aroused him. + +This first rush is not a charge in the sense that it is an attack on a +definite object. It may not, and probably will not, amount to a charge +at all, for the beast will blunder through without ever defining more +clearly the object of his blind dash. That dash is likely, however, at +any moment, to turn into a definite charge should the rhinoceros happen +to catch sight of his disturber. Whether the impelling motive would then +be a mistaken notion that on the part of the beast he was so close he +had to fight, or just plain malice, would not matter. At such times the +intended victim is not interested in the rhino's mental processes. + +Owing to his size, his powerful armament, and his incredible quickness +the rhinoceros is a dangerous animal at all times, to be treated with +respect and due caution. This is proved by the number of white men, +out of a sparse population, that are annually tossed and killed by the +brutes, and by the promptness with which the natives take to trees-thorn +trees at that!-when the cry of faru! is raised. As he comes rushing in +your direction, head down and long weapon pointed, tail rigidly erect, +ears up, the earth trembling with his tread and the air with his snorts, +you suddenly feel very small and ineffective. + +If you keep cool, however, it is probable that the encounter will +result only in a lot of mental perturbation for the rhino and a bit +of excitement for yourself. If there is any cover you should duck down +behind it and move rapidly but quietly to one side or another of the +line of advance. If there is no cover, you should crouch low and hold +still. The chances are he will pass to one side or the other of you, and +go snorting away into the distance. Keep your eye on him very closely. +If he swerves definitely in your direction, AND DROPS HIS HEAD A LITTLE +LOWER, it would be just as well to open fire. Provided the beast was +still far enough away to give me “sea-room,” I used to put a small +bullet in the flesh of the outer part of the shoulder. The wound thus +inflicted was not at all serious, but the shock of the bullet usually +turned the beast. This was generally in the direction of the wounded +shoulder, which would indicate that the brute turned toward the apparent +source of the attack, probably for the purpose of getting even. At +any rate, the shot turned the rush to one side, and the rhinoceros, as +usual, went right on through. If, however, he seemed to mean business, +or was too close for comfort, the point to aim for was the neck just +above the lowered horn. + +In my own experience I came to establish a “dead line” about twenty +yards from myself. That seemed to be as near as I cared to let the +brutes come. Up to that point I let them alone on the chance that they +might swerve or change their minds, as they often did. But inside of +twenty yards, whether the rhinoceros meant to charge me, or was merely +running blindly by, did not particularly matter. Even in the latter case +he might happen to catch sight of me and change his mind. Thus, +looking over my notebook records, I find that I was “charged” forty odd +times-that is to say, the rhinoceros rushed in my general direction. Of +this lot I can be sure of but three, and possibly four, that certainly +meant mischief. Six more came so directly at us, and continued so to +come, that in spite of ourselves we were compelled to kill them. The +rest were successfully dodged. + +As I have heard old hunters of many times my experience, affirm that +only in a few instances have they themselves been charged indubitably +and with malice aforethought, it might be well to detail my reasons for +believing myself definitely and not blindly attacked. + +The first instance was that when B. killed his second trophy rhinoceros. +The beast's companion refused to leave the dead body for a long time, +but finally withdrew. On our approaching, however, and after we had +been some moments occupied with the trophy, it returned and charged +viciously. It was finally killed at fifteen yards. + +The second instance was of a rhinoceros that got up from the grass +sixty yards away, and came headlong in my direction. At the moment I +was standing on the edge of a narrow eroded ravine, ten feet deep, with +perpendicular sides. The rhinoceros came on bravely to the edge of this +ravine-and stopped. Then he gave an exhibition of unmitigated bad temper +most amusing to contemplate-from my safe position. He snorted, and +stamped, and pawed the earth, and tramped up and down at a great rate. +I sat on the opposite bank and laughed at him. This did not please him +a bit, but after many short rushes to the edge of the ravine, he gave +it up and departed slowly, his tail very erect and rigid. From the +persistency with which he tried to get at me, I cannot but think he +intended something of the sort from the first. + +The third instance was much more aggravating. In company with Memba Sasa +and Fundi I left camp early one morning to get a waterbuck. Four or five +hundred yards out, however, we came on fresh buffalo signs, not an hour +old. To one who knew anything of buffaloes' habits this seemed like an +excellent chance, for at this time of the morning they should be feeding +not far away preparatory to seeking cover for the day. Therefore we +immediately took up the trail. + +It led us over hills, through valleys, high grass, burned country, +brush, thin scrub, and small woodland alternately. Unfortunately we had +happened on these buffalo just as they were about changing district, and +they were therefore travelling steadily. At times the trail was easy to +follow and at other times we had to cast about very diligently to +find traces of the direction even such huge animals had taken. It was +interesting work, however, and we drew on steadily, keeping a sharp +lookout ahead in case the buffalo had come to a halt in some shady +thicket out of the sun. As the latter ascended the heavens and the +scorching heat increased, our confidence in nearing our quarry +ascended likewise, for we knew that buffaloes do not like great heat. +Nevertheless this band continued straight on its way. I think now they +must have got scent of our camp, and had therefore decided to move to +one of the alternate and widely separated feeding grounds every herd +keeps in its habitat. Only at noon, and after six hours of steady +trailing, covering perhaps a dozen miles, did we catch them up. + +From the start we had been bothered with rhinoceroses. Five times did +we encounter them, standing almost squarely on the line of the spoor we +were following. Then we had to make a wide quiet circle to leeward in +order to avoid disturbing them, and were forced to a very minute search +in order to pick up the buffalo tracks again on the other side. This was +at once an anxiety and a delay, and we did not love those rhino. + +Finally, at the very edge of the Yatta Plains we overtook the herd, +resting for noon in a scattered thicket. Leaving Fundi, I, with Memba +Sasa, stalked down to them. We crawled and crept by inches flat to the +ground, which was so hot that it fairly burned the hand. The sun beat +down on us fiercely, and the air was close and heavy even among the +scanty grass tufts in which we were trying to get cover. It was very +hard work indeed, but after a half hour of it we gained a thin bush not +over thirty yards from a half dozen dark and indeterminate bodies dozing +in the very centre of a brush patch. Cautiously I wiped the sweat +from my eyes and raised my glasses. It was slow work and patient work, +picking out and examining each individual beast from the mass. Finally +the job was done. I let fall my glasses. + +“Monumookee y'otey-all cows,” I whispered to Memba Sasa. + +We backed out of there inch by inch, with intention of circling a short +distance to the leeward, and then trying the herd again lower down. But +some awkward slight movement, probably on my part, caught the eye of +one of those blessed cows. She threw up her head; instantly the whole +thicket seemed alive with beasts. We could hear them crashing and +stamping, breaking the brush, rushing headlong and stopping again; we +could even catch momentary glimpses of dark bodies. After a few minutes +we saw the mass of the herd emerge from the thicket five hundred yards +away and flow up over the hill. There were probably a hundred and fifty +of them, and, looking through my glasses, I saw among them two fine old +bulls. They were of course not much alarmed, as only the one cow knew +what it was all about anyway, and I suspected they would stop at the +next thicket. + +We had only one small canteen of water with us, but we divided that. It +probably did us good, but the quantity was not sufficient to touch our +thirst. For the remainder of the day we suffered rather severely, as the +sun was fierce. + +After a short interval we followed on after the buffaloes. Within a half +mile beyond the crest of the hill over which they had disappeared +was another thicket. At the very edge of the thicket, asleep under an +outlying bush, stood one of the big bulls! + +Luck seemed with us at last. The wind was right, and between us and the +bull lay only four hundred yards of knee-high grass. All we had to +do was to get down on our hands and knees, and, without further +precautions, crawl up within range and pot him. That meant only a bit of +hard, hot work. + +When we were about halfway a rhinoceros suddenly arose from the grass +between us and the buffalo, and about one hundred yards away. + +What had aroused him, at that distance and upwind, I do not know. It +hardly seemed possible that he could have heard us, for we were moving +very quietly, and, as I say, we were downwind. However, there he was +on his feet, sniffing now this way, now that, in search for what had +alarmed him. We sank out of sight and lay low, fully expecting that the +brute would make off. + +For just twenty-five minutes by the watch that rhinoceros looked and +looked deliberately in all directions while we lay hidden waiting for +him to get over it. Sometimes he would start off quite confidently for +fifty or sixty yards, so that we thought at last we were rid of him, but +always he returned to the exact spot where we had first seen him, +there to stamp, and blow. The buffalo paid no attention to these +manifestations. I suppose everybody in jungleland is accustomed to +rhinoceros bad temper over nothing. Twice he came in our direction, but +both times gave it up after advancing twenty-five yards or so. We lay +flat on our faces, the vertical sun slowly roasting us, and cursed that +rhino. + +Now the significance of this incident is twofold: first, the fact that, +instead of rushing off at the first intimation of our presence, as would +the average rhino, he went methodically to work to find us; second, that +he displayed such remarkable perseverance as to keep at it nearly a +half hour. This was a spirit quite at variance with that finding its +expression in the blind rush or in the sudden passionate attack. From +that point of view it seems to me that the interest and significance of +the incident can hardly be overstated. + +Four or five times we thought ourselves freed of the nuisance, but +always, just as we were about to move on, back he came, as eager as ever +to nose us out. Finally he gave it up, and, at a slow trot, started to +go away from there. And out of the three hundred and sixty degrees of +the circle where he might have gone he selected just our direction. Note +that this was downwind for him, and that rhinoceroses usually escape +upwind. + +We laid very low, hoping that, as before, he would change his mind as to +direction. But now he was no longer looking, but travelling. Nearer +and nearer he came. We could see plainly his little eyes, and hear +the regular swish, swish, swish of his thick legs brushing through the +grass. The regularity of his trot never varied, but to me lying there +directly in his path, he seemed to be coming on altogether too fast +for comfort. From our low level he looked as big as a barn. Memba Sasa +touched me lightly on the leg. I hated to shoot, but finally when he +loomed fairly over us I saw it must be now or never. If I allowed him to +come closer, he must indubitably catch the first movement of my gun +and so charge right on us before I would have time to deliver even an +ineffective shot. Therefore, most reluctantly, I placed the ivory bead +of the great Holland gun just to the point of his shoulder and pulled +the trigger. So close was he that as he toppled forward I instinctively, +though unnecessarily of course, shrank back as though he might fall on +me. Fortunately I had picked my spot properly, and no second shot was +necessary. He fell just twenty-seven feet-nine yards--from where we lay! + +The buffalo vanished into the blue. We were left with a dead rhino, +which we did not want, twelve miles from camp, and no water. It was +a hard hike back, but we made it finally, though nearly perished from +thirst. + +This beast, be it noted, did not charge us at all, but I consider him +as one of the three undoubtedly animated by hostile intentions. Of the +others I can, at this moment, remember five that might or might not have +been actually and maliciously charging when they were killed or dodged. +I am no mind reader for rhinoceros. Also I am willing to believe in +their entirely altruistic intentions. Only, if they want to get the +practical results of their said altruistic intentions they must really +refrain from coming straight at me nearer than twenty yards. It has been +stated that if one stands perfectly still until the rhinoceros is just +six feet away, and then jumps sideways, the beast will pass him. I never +happened to meet anybody who had acted on this theory. I suppose that +such exist: though I doubt if any persistent exponent of the art is +likely to exist long. Personally I like my own method, and stoutly +maintain that within twenty yards it is up to the rhinoceros to begin to +do the dodging. + + + + + +XXII. THE RHINOCEROS-(continued) + +At first the traveller is pleased and curious over rhinoceros. After he +has seen and encountered eight or ten, he begins to look upon them as +an unmitigated nuisance. By the time he has done a week in thick +rhino-infested scrub he gets fairly to hating them. + +They are bad enough in the open plains, where they can be seen and +avoided, but in the tall grass or the scrub they are a continuous +anxiety. No cover seems small enough to reveal them. Often they will +stand or lie absolutely immobile until you are within a very short +distance, and then will outrageously break out. They are, in spite of +their clumsy build, as quick and active as polo ponies, and are the +only beasts I know of capable of leaping into full speed ahead from a +recumbent position. In thorn scrub they are the worst, for there, no +matter how alert the traveller may hold himself, he is likely to come +around a bush smack on one. And a dozen times a day the throat-stopping, +abrupt crash and smash to right or left brings him up all standing, his +heart racing, the blood pounding through his veins. It is jumpy work, +and is very hard on the temper. In the natural reaction from being +startled into fits one snaps back to profanity. The cumulative effects +of the epithets hurled after a departing and inconsiderately hasty +rhinoceros may have done something toward ruining the temper of the +species. It does not matter whether or not the individual beast proves +dangerous; he is inevitably most startling. I have come in at night +with my eyes fairly aching from spying for rhinos during a day's journey +through high grass. + +And, as a friend remarked, rhinos are such a mussy death. One poor chap, +killed while we were away on our first trip, could not be moved from +the spot where he had been trampled. A few shovelfuls of earth over the +remains was all the rhinoceros had left possible. + +Fortunately, in the thick stuff especially, it is often possible to +avoid the chance rhinoceros through the warning given by the rhinoceros +birds. These are birds about the size of a robin that accompany the +beast everywhere. They sit in a row along his back occupying themselves +with ticks and a good place to roost. Always they are peaceful and quiet +until a human being approaches. Then they flutter a few feet into the +air uttering a peculiar rapid chattering. Writers with more sentiment +than sense of proportion assure us that this warns the rhinoceros of +approaching danger! On the contrary, I always looked at it the other +way. The rhinoceros birds thereby warned ME of danger, and I was duly +thankful. + +The safari boys stand quite justly in a holy awe of the rhino. The +safari is strung out over a mile or two of country, as a usual thing, +and a downwind rhino is sure to pierce some part of the line in his +rush. Then down go the loads with a smash, and up the nearest trees +swarm the boys. Usually their refuges are thorn trees, armed, even on +the main trunk, with long sharp spikes. There is no difficulty in going +up, but the gingerly coming down, after all the excitement has died, is +a matter of deliberation and of voices uplifted in woe. Cuninghame tells +of an inadequate slender and springy, but solitary, sapling into which +swarmed half his safari on the advent of a rambunctious rhino. The tree +swayed and bent and cracked alarmingly, threatening to dump the whole +lot on the ground. At each crack the boys yelled. This attracted the +rhinoceros, which immediately charged the tree full tilt. He hit square, +the tree shivered and creaked, the boys wound their arms and legs around +the slender support and howled frantically. Again and again rhinoceros +drew back to repeat his butting of that tree. By the time Cuninghame +reached the spot, the tree, with its despairing burden of black birds, +was clinging to the soil by its last remaining roots. + +In the Nairobi Club I met a gentleman with one arm gone at the shoulder. +He told his story in a slightly bored and drawling voice, picking +his words very carefully, and evidently most occupied with neither +understating nor overstating the case. It seems he had been out, and had +killed some sort of a buck. While his men were occupied with this, he +strolled on alone to see what he could find. He found a rhinoceros, that +charged viciously, and into which he emptied his gun. + +“When I came to,” he said, “it was just coming on dusk, and the lions +were beginning to grunt. My arm was completely crushed, and I was badly +bruised and knocked about. As near as I could remember I was fully ten +miles from camp. A circle of carrion birds stood all about me not more +than ten feet away, and a great many others were flapping over me and +fighting in the air. These last were so close that I could feel the wind +from their wings. It was rawther gruesome.” He paused and thought a a +moment, as though weighing his words. “In fact,” he added with an air of +final conviction, “it was QUITE gruesome!” + +The most calm and imperturbable rhinoceros I ever saw was one that made +us a call on the Thika River. It was just noon, and our boys were making +camp after a morning's march. The usual racket was on, and the usual +varied movement of rather confused industry. Suddenly silence fell. +We came out of the tent to see the safari gazing spellbound in one +direction. There was a rhinoceros wandering peaceably over the little +knoll back of camp, and headed exactly in our direction. While we +watched, he strolled through the edge of camp, descended the steep bank +to the river's edge, drank, climbed the bank, strolled through camp +again and departed over the hill. To us he paid not the slightest +attention. It seems impossible to believe that he neither scented nor +saw any evidences of human life in all that populated flat, especially +when one considers how often these beasts will SEEM to become aware of +man's presence by telepathy.* Perhaps he was the one exception to the +whole race, and was a good-natured rhino. + + * Opposing theories are those of “instinct,” and of slight + causes, such a grasshoppers leaping before the hunter's + feet, not noticed by the man approaching. + +The babies are astonishing and amusing creatures, with blunt noses on +which the horns are just beginning to form, and with even fewer manners +than their parents. The mere fact of an 800-pound baby does not cease +to be curious. They are truculent little creatures, and sometimes rather +hard to avoid when they get on the warpath. Generally, as far as my +observation goes, the mother gives birth to but one at a time. There may +be occasional twin births, but I happen never to have met so interesting +a family. + +Rhinoceroses are still very numerous-too numerous. I have seen as many +as fourteen in two hours, and probably could have found as many more +if I had been searching for them. There is no doubt, however, that this +species must be the first to disappear of the larger African animals. +His great size combined with his 'orrid 'abits mark him for early +destruction. No such dangerous lunatic can be allowed at large in a +settled country, nor in a country where men are travelling constantly. +The species will probably be preserved in appropriate restricted +areas. It would be a great pity to have so perfect an example of the +Prehistoric Pinhead wiped out completely. Elsewhere he will diminish, +and finally disappear. + +For one thing, and for one thing only, is the traveller indebted to the +rhinoceros. The beast is lazy, large, and has an excellent eye for easy +ways through. For this reason, as regards the question of good roads, he +combines the excellent qualities of Public Sentiment, the Steam Roller, +and the Expert Engineer. Through thorn thickets impenetrable to anything +less armoured than a Dreadnaught like himself he clears excellent +paths. Down and out of eroded ravines with perpendicular sides he makes +excellent wide trails, tramped hard, on easy grades, often with zigzags +to ease the slant. In some of the high country where the torrential +rains wash hundreds of such gullies across the line of march it +is hardly an exaggeration to say that travel would be practically +impossible without the rhino trails wherewith to cross. Sometimes the +perpendicular banks will extend for miles without offering any natural +break down to the stream-bed. Since this is so I respectfully submit to +Government the following proposal: + +(a) That a limited number of these beasts shall be licensed as Trail +Rhinos; and that all the rest shall be killed from the settled and +regularly travelled districts. + +(b) That these Trail Rhinos shall be suitably hobbled by short steel +chains. + +(c) That each Trail Rhino shall carry painted conspicuously on his side +his serial number. + +(d) That as a further precaution for public safety each Trail Rhino +shall carry firmly attached to his tail a suitable red warning flag. +Thus the well-known habit of the rhinoceros of elevating his tail +rigidly when about to charge, or when in the act of charging, will fly +the flag as a warning to travellers. + +(e) That an official shall be appointed to be known as the Inspector of +Rhinos whose duty it shall be to examine the hobbles, numbers and flags +of all Trail Rhinos, and to keep the same in due working order and +repair. + +And I do submit to all and sundry that the above resolutions have as +much sense to them as have most of the petitions submitted to Government +by settlers in a new country. + + + + + +XXIII. THE HIPPO POOL + +For a number of days we camped in a grove just above a dense jungle +and not fifty paces from the bank of a deep and wide river. We could +at various points push through light low undergrowth, or stoop beneath +clear limbs, or emerge on tiny open banks and promontories to look out +over the width of the stream. The river here was some three or four +hundred feet wide. It cascaded down through various large boulders and +sluiceways to fall bubbling and boiling into deep water; it then flowed +still and sluggish for nearly a half mile and finally divided into +channels around a number of wooded islands of different sizes. In the +long still stretch dwelt about sixty hippopotamuses of all sizes. + +During our stay these hippos led a life of alarmed and angry care. +When we first arrived they were distributed picturesquely on banks or +sandbars, or were lying in midstream. At once they disappeared under +water. By the end of four or five minutes they began to come to the +surface. Each beast took one disgusted look, snorted, and sank again. +So hasty was his action that he did not even take time to get a full +breath; consequently up he had to come in not more than two minutes, +this time. The third submersion lasted less than a minute; and at the +end of half hour of yelling we had the hippos alternating between the +bottom of the river and the surface of the water about as fast as they +could make a round trip, blowing like porpoises. It was a comical sight. +And as some of the boys were always out watching the show, those hippos +had no respite during the daylight hours. From a short distance inland +the explosive blowing as they came to the surface sounded like the +irregular exhaust of a steam-engine. + +We camped at this spot four days; and never, in that length of time, +during the daytime, did those hippopotamuses take any recreation and +rest. To be sure after a little they calmed down sufficiently to remain +on the surface for a half minute or so, instead of gasping a mouthful of +air and plunging below at once; but below was where they considered they +belonged most of the time. We got to recognize certain individuals. They +would stare at us fixedly for a while; and then would glump down out of +sight like submarines. + +When I saw them thus floating with only the very top of the head and +snout out of water, I for the first time appreciated why the Greeks had +named them hippopotamuses-the river horses. With the heavy jowl hidden; +and the prominent nostrils, the long reverse-curved nose, the wide eyes, +and the little pointed ears alone visible, they resembled more than +a little that sort of conventionalized and noble charger seen on the +frieze of the Parthenon, or in the prancy paintings of the Renaissance. + +There were hippopotamuses of all sizes and of all colours. The +little ones, not bigger than a grand piano, were of flesh pink. Those +half-grown were mottled with pink and black in blotches. The adults were +almost invariably all dark, though a few of them retained still a small +pink spot or so-a sort of persistence in mature years of the eternal +boy-, I suppose. All were very sleek and shiny with the wet; and they +had a fashion of suddenly and violently wiggling one or the other or +both of their little ears in ridiculous contrast to the fixed stare of +their bung eyes. Generally they had nothing to say as to the situation, +though occasionally some exasperated old codger would utter a grumbling +bellow. + +The ground vegetation for a good quarter mile from the river bank +was entirely destroyed, and the earth beaten and packed hard by these +animals. Landing trails had been made leading out from the water by easy +and regular grades. These trails were about two feet wide and worn a +foot or so deep. They differed from the rhino trails, from which they +could be easily distinguished, in that they showed distinctly two +parallel tracks separated from each other by a slight ridge. In other +words, the hippo waddles. These trails we found as far as four and +five miles inland. They were used, of course, only at night; and led +invariably to lush and heavy feed. While we were encamped there, the +country on our side the river was not used by our particular herd of +hippos. One night, however, we were awakened by a tremendous rending +crash of breaking bushes, followed by an instant's silence and then the +outbreak of a babel of voices. Then we heard a prolonged sw-i-sh-sh-sh, +exactly like the launching of a big boat. A hippo had blundered out the +wrong side the river, and fairly into our camp. + +In rivers such as the Tana these great beasts are most extraordinarily +abundant. Directly in front of our camp, for example, were three +separate herds which contained respectively about sixty, forty, and +twenty-five head. Within two miles below camp were three other big pools +each with its population; while a walk of a mile above showed about as +many more. This sort of thing obtained for practically the whole length +of the river-hundreds of miles. Furthermore, every little tributary +stream, no matter how small, provided it can muster a pool or so deep +enough to submerge so large an animal, has its faithful band. I have +known of a hippo quite happily occupying a ditch pool ten feet wide and +fifteen feet long. There was literally not room enough for the beast to +turn around; he had to go in at one end and out at the other! Each lake, +too, is alive with them; and both lakes and rivers are many. + +Nobody disturbs hippos, save for trophies and an occasional supply of +meat for the men or of cooking fat for the kitchen. Therefore they wax +fat and sassy, and will long continue to flourish in the land. + +It takes time to kill a hippo, provided one is wanted. The mark is +small, and generally it is impossible to tell whether or not the bullet +has reached the brain. Harmed or whole the beast sinks anyway. Some +hours later the distention of the stomach will float the body. Therefore +the only decent way to do is to take the shot, and then wait a half +day to see whether or not you have missed. There are always plenty of +volunteers in camp to watch the pool, for the boys are extravagantly +fond of hippo meat. Then it is necessary to manoeuvre a rope on the +carcass, often a matter of great difficulty, for the other hippos bellow +and snort and try to live up to the circus posters of the Blood-sweating +Behemoth of Holy Writ, and the crocodiles like dark meat very much. +Usually one offers especial reward to volunteers, and shoots into the +water to frighten the beasts. The volunteer dashes rapidly across the +shallows, makes a swift plunge, and clambers out on the floating body as +onto a raft. + +Then he makes fast the rope, and everybody tails on and tows the whole +outfit ashore. On one occasion the volunteer produced a fish line and +actually caught a small fish from the floating carcass! This sounds like +a good one; but I saw it with my own two eyes. + +It was at the hippo pool camp that we first became acquainted with Funny +Face. + +Funny Face was the smallest, furriest little monkey you ever saw. I +never cared for monkeys before; but this one was altogether engaging. He +had thick soft fur almost like that on a Persian cat, and a tiny human +black face, and hands that emerged from a ruff; and he was about as big +as old-fashioned dolls used to be before they began to try to imitate +real babies with them. That is to say, he was that big when we said +farewell to him. When we first knew him, had he stood in a half pint +measure he could just have seen over the rim. We caught him in a little +thorn ravine all by himself, a fact that perhaps indicates that his +mother had been killed, or perhaps that he, like a good little Funny +Face, was merely staying where he was told while she was away. At any +rate he fought savagely, according to his small powers. We took him +ignominiously by the scruff of the neck, haled him to camp, and dumped +him down on Billy. Billy constructed him a beautiful belt by sacrificing +part of a kodak strap (mine), and tied him to a chop box filled with dry +grass. Thenceforth this became Funny Face's castle, at home and on the +march. + +Within a few hours his confidence in life was restored. He accepted +small articles of food from our hands, eyeing us intently, retired and +examined them. As they all proved desirable, he rapidly came to the +conclusion that these new large strange monkeys, while not so beautiful +and agile as his own people, were nevertheless a good sort after all. +Therefore he took us into his confidence. By next day he was quite +tame, would submit to being picked up without struggling, and had ceased +trying to take an end off our various fingers. In fact when the finger +was presented, he would seize it in both small black hands; convey it +to his mouth; give it several mild and gentle love-chews; and then, +clasping it with all four hands, would draw himself up like a little +athlete and seat himself upright on the outspread palm. Thence he would +survey the world, wrinkling up his tiny brow. + +This chastened and scholarly attitude of mind lasted for four or five +days. Then Funny Face concluded that he understood all about it, had +settled satisfactorily to himself all the problems of the world and +his relations to it, and had arrived at a good working basis for life. +Therefore these questions ceased to occupy him. He dismissed them from +his mind completely, and gave himself over to light-hearted frivolity. + +His disposition was flighty but full of elusive charm. You deprecated +his lack of serious purpose in life, disapproved heartily of his +irresponsibility, but you fell to his engaging qualities. He was a +typical example of the lovable good-for-naught. Nothing retained his +attention for two consecutive minutes. If he seized a nut and started +for his chop box with it, the chances were he would drop it and forget +all about it in the interest excited by a crawling ant or the colour of +a flower. His elfish face was always alight with the play of emotions +and of flashing changing interests. He was greatly given to starting off +on very important errands, which he forgot before he arrived. + +In this he contrasted strangely with his friend Darwin. Darwin was +another monkey of the same species, caught about a week later. Darwin's +face was sober and pondering, and his methods direct and effective. No +side excursions into the brilliant though evanescent fields of fancy +diverted him from his ends. These were, generally, to get the most and +best food and the warmest corner for sleep. When he had acquired a nut, +a kernel of corn, or a piece of fruit, he sat him down and examined it +thoroughly and conscientiously and then, conscientiously and thoroughly, +he devoured it. No extraneous interest could distract his attention; not +for a moment. That he had sounded the seriousness of life is proved by +the fact that he had observed and understood the flighty character +of Funny Face. When Funny Face acquired a titbit, Darwin took up a +hump-backed position near at hand, his bright little eyes fixed on his +friend's activities. Funny Face would nibble relishingly at his prune +for a moment or so; then an altogether astonishing butterfly would +flitter by just overhead. Funny Face, lost in ecstasy would gaze skyward +after the departing marvel. This was Darwin's opportunity. In two +hops he was at Funny Face's side. With great deliberation, but most +businesslike directness, Darwin disengaged Funny Face's unresisting +fingers from the prune, seized it, and retired. Funny Face never +knew it; his soul was far away after the blazoned wonder, and when it +returned, it was not to prunes at all. They were forgotten, and his +wandering eye focussed back to a bright button in the grass. Thus by +strict attention to business did Darwin prosper. + +Darwin's attitude was always serious, and his expression grave. When he +condescended to romp with Funny Face one could see that it was not for +the mere joy of sport, but for the purposes of relaxation. If offered +a gift he always examined it seriously before finally accepting it, +turning it over and over in his hands, and considering it with wrinkled +brow. If you offered anything to Funny Face, no matter what, he dashed +up, seized it on the fly, departed at speed uttering grateful low +chatterings; probably dropped and forgot it in the excitement of +something new before he had even looked to see what it was. + +“These people,” said Darwin to himself, “on the whole, and as an +average, seem to give me appropriate and pleasing gifts. To be sure, it +is always well to see that they don't try to bunco me with olive stones +or such worthless trash, but still I believe they are worth cultivating +and standing in with.” + +“It strikes me,” observed Funny Face to himself, “that my adorable +Memsahib and my beloved bwana have been very kind to me to-day, though I +don't remember precisely how. But I certainly do love them!” + +We cut good sized holes on each of the four sides of their chop box to +afford them ventilation on the march. The box was always carried on one +of the safari boy's heads: and Funny Face and Darwin gazed forth with +great interest. It was very amusing to see the big negro striding +jauntily along under his light burden; the large brown winking eyes +glued to two of the apertures. When we arrived in camp and threw the +box cover open, they hopped forth, shook themselves, examined their +immediate surroundings and proceeded to take a little exercise. When +anything alarmed them, such as the shadow of a passing hawk, they +skittered madly up the nearest thing in sight-tent pole, tree, or human +form-- and scolded indignantly or chittered in a low tone according to +the degree of their terror. When Funny Face was very young, indeed, the +grass near camp caught fire. After the excitement was over we found him +completely buried in the straw of his box, crouched, and whimpering like +a child. As he could hardly, at his tender age, have had any previous +experience with fire, this instinctive fear was to me very interesting. + +The monkeys had only one genuine enemy. That was an innocent plush +lion named Little Simba. It had been given us in joke before we left +California, we had tucked it into an odd corner of our trunk, had +discovered it there, carried it on safari out of sheer idleness, and +lo! it had become an important member of the expedition. Every morning +Mahomet or Yusuf packed it-or rather him-carefully away in the tin box. +Promptly at the end of the day's march Little Simba was haled forth +and set in a place of honour in the centre of the table, and reigned +there-or sometimes in a little grass jungle constructed by his faithful +servitors-until the march was again resumed. His job in life was to look +after our hunting luck. When he failed to get us what we wanted, he was +punished; when he procured us what we desired he was rewarded by having +his tail sewed on afresh, or by being presented with new black thread +whiskers, or even a tiny blanket of Mericani against the cold. This +last was an especial favour for finally getting us the greater kudu. +Naturally as we did all this in the spirit of an idle joke our rewards +and punishments were rather desultory. To our surprise, however, we soon +found that our boys took Little Simba quite seriously. He was a fetish, +a little god, a power of good or bad luck. We did not appreciate this +point until one evening, after a rather disappointing day, Mahomet came +to us bearing Little Simba in his hand. + +“Bwana,” said he respectfully, “is it enough that I shut Simba in the +tin box, or do you wish to flog him?” + +On one very disgraceful occasion, when everything went wrong, we +plucked Little Simba from his high throne and with him made a beautiful +drop-kick out into the tall grass. There, in a loud tone of voice, we +sternly bade him lie until the morrow. The camp was bung-eyed. It is not +given to every people to treat its gods in such fashion: indeed, in +very deed, great is the white man! To be fair, having published Little +Simba's disgrace, we should publish also Little Simba's triumph: to +tell how, at the end of a certain very lucky three months' safari he was +perched atop a pole and carried into town triumphantly at the head of +a howling, singing procession of a hundred men. He returned to America, +and now, having retired from active professional life, is leading an +honoured old age among the trophies he helped to procure. + +Funny Face first met Little Simba when on an early investigating tour. +With considerable difficulty he had shinnied up the table leg, and had +hoisted himself over the awkwardly projecting table edge. When almost +within reach of the fascinating affairs displayed atop, he looked +straight up into the face of Little Simba! Funny Face shrieked aloud, +let go all holds and fell off flat on his back. Recovering immediately, +he climbed just as high as he could, and proceeded, during the next +hour, to relieve his feelings by the most insulting chatterings and +grimaces. He never recovered from this initial experience. All that was +necessary to evoke all sorts of monkey talk was to produce Little Simba. +Against his benign plush front then broke a storm of remonstrance. +He became the object of slow advances and sudden scurrying, shrieking +retreats, that lasted just as long as he stayed there, and never got any +farther than a certain quite conservative point. Little Simba did not +mind. He was too busy being a god. + + + + + +XXIV. BUFFALO + +The Cape Buffalo is one of the four dangerous kinds of African big game; +of which the other three are the lion, the rhinoceros, and the elephant. +These latter are familiar to us in zoological gardens, although the +African and larger form of the rhinoceros and elephant are seldom or +never seen in captivity. But buffaloes are as yet unrepresented in our +living collections. They are huge beasts, tremendous from any point +of view, whether considered in height, in mass, or in power. At the +shoulder they stand from just under five feet to just under six feet in +height; they are short legged, heavy bodied bull necked, thick in every +dimension. In colour they are black as to hair, and slate gray as to +skin; so that the individual impression depends on the thickness of the +coat. They wear their horns parted in the middle, sweeping smoothly away +in the curves of two great bosses either side the head. A good trophy +will measure in spread from forty inches to four feet. Four men will +be required to carry in the head alone. As buffaloes when disturbed or +suspicious have a habit of thrusting their noses up and forward, that +position will cling to one's memory as the most typical of the species. + +A great many hunters rank the buffalo first among the dangerous beasts. +This is not my own opinion, but he is certainly dangerous enough. He +possesses the size, power, and truculence of the rhinoceros, together +with all that animal's keenness of scent and hearing but with a +sharpness of vision the rhinoceros has not. While not as clever as +either the lion or the elephant, he is tricky enough when angered to +circle back for the purpose of attacking his pursuers in the rear or +flank, and to arrange rather ingenious ambushes for the same purpose. +He is rather more tenacious of life than the rhinoceros, and will +carry away an extraordinary quantity of big bullets. Add to these +considerations the facts that buffaloes go in herds; and that, barring +luck, chances are about even they will have to be followed into the +thickest cover, it can readily be seen that their pursuit is exciting. + +The problem would be simplified were one able or willing to slip into +the thicket or up to the grazing herd and kill the nearest beast that +offers. As a matter of fact an ordinary herd will contain only two or +three bulls worth shooting; and it is the hunter's delicate task to +glide and crawl here and there, with due regard for sight, scent and +sound, until he has picked one of these from the scores of undesirables. +Many times will he worm his way by inches toward the great black bodies +half defined in the screen of thick undergrowth only to find that he has +stalked cows or small bulls. Then inch by inch he must back out again, +unable to see twenty yards to either side, guiding himself by the +probabilities of the faint chance breezes in the thicket. To right and +left he hears the quiet continued crop, crop, crop, sound of animals +grazing. The sweat runs down his face in streams, and blinds his eyes, +but only occasionally and with the utmost caution can he raise his +hand-or, better, lower his head-to clear his vision. When at last he has +withdrawn from the danger zone, he wipes his face, takes a drink from +the canteen, and tries again. Sooner or later his presence comes to the +notice of some old cow. Behind the leafy screen where unsuspected she +has been standing comes the most unexpected and heart-jumping crash! +Instantly the jungle all about roars into life. The great bodies of the +alarmed beasts hurl themselves through the thicket, smash! bang! crash! +smash! as though a tornado were uprooting the forest. Then abruptly a +complete silence! This lasts but ten seconds or so; then off rushes the +wild stampede in another direction; only again to come to a listening +halt of breathless stillness. So the hunter, unable to see anything, +and feeling very small, huddles with his gunbearers in a compact group, +listening to the wild surging short rushes, now this way, now that, +hoping that the stampede may not run over him. If by chance it does, he +has his two shots and the possibility of hugging a tree while the rush +divides around him. The latter is the most likely; a single buffalo +is hard enough to stop with two shots, let alone a herd. And yet, +sometimes, the mere flash and noise will suffice to turn them, provided +they are not actually trying to attack, but only rushing indefinitely +about. Probably a man can experience few more thrilling moments than he +will enjoy standing in one of the small leafy rooms of an African jungle +while several hundred tons of buffalo crash back and forth all around +him. + +In the best of circumstances it is only rarely that having identified +his big bull, the hunter can deliver a knockdown blow. The beast is +extraordinarily vital, and in addition it is exceedingly difficult to +get a fair, open shot. Then from the danger of being trampled down +by the blind and senseless stampede of the herd he passes to the more +defined peril from an angered and cunning single animal. The majority of +fatalities in hunting buffaloes happen while following wounded beasts. A +flank charge at close range may catch the most experienced man; and even +when clearly seen, it is difficult to stop. The buffalo's wide bosses +are a helmet to his brain, and the body shot is always chancy. The beast +tosses his victim, or tramples him, or pushes him against a tree to +crush him like a fly. + +He who would get his trophy, however, is not always-perhaps is not +generally-forced into the thicket to get it. When not much disturbed, +buffaloes are in the habit of grazing out into the open just before +dark; and of returning to their thicket cover only well after sunrise. +If the hunter can arrange to meet his herd at such a time, he stands a +very good chance of getting a clear shot. The job then requires merely +ordinary caution and manoeuvring; and the only danger, outside the +ever-present one from the wounded beast, is that the herd may charge +over him deliberately. Therefore it is well to keep out of sight. + +The difficulty generally is to locate your beasts. They wander all +night, and must be blundered upon in the early morning before they have +drifted back into the thickets. Sometimes, by sending skilled trackers +in several directions, they can be traced to where they have entered +cover. A messenger then brings the white man to the place, and every one +tries to guess at what spot the buffaloes are likely to emerge for their +evening stroll. It is remarkably easy to make a wrong guess, and the +remaining daylight is rarely sufficient to repair a mistake. And also, +in the case of a herd ranging a wide country with much tall grass and +several drinking holes, it is rather difficult, without very good luck, +to locate them on any given night or morning. A few herds, a very few, +may have fixed habits, and so prove easy hunting. + +These difficulties, while in no way formidable, are real enough in their +small way; but they are immensely increased when the herds have been +often disturbed. Disturbance need not necessarily mean shooting. In +countries unvisited by white men often the pastoral natives will so +annoy the buffalo by shoutings and other means, whenever they appear +near the tame cattle, that the huge beasts will come practically +nocturnal. In that case only the rankest luck will avail to get a man +a chance in the open. The herds cling to cover until after sundown and +just at dusk; and they return again very soon after the first streaks of +dawn. If the hunter just happens to be at the exact spot, he may get +a twilight shot when the glimmering ivory of his front sight is barely +visible. Otherwise he must go into the thicket. + +As an illustration of the first condition might be instanced an +afternoon on the Tana. The weather was very hot. We had sent three lots +of men out in different directions, each under the leadership of one +of the gunbearers, to scout, while we took it easy in the shade of our +banda, or grass shelter, on the bank of the river. About one o'clock +a messenger came into camp reporting that the men under Mavrouki had +traced a herd to its lying-down place. We took our heavy guns and +started. + +The way led through thin scrub up the long slope of a hill that broke +on the other side into undulating grass ridges that ended in a range of +hills. These were about four or five miles distant, and thinly wooded +on sides and lower slopes with what resembled a small live-oak growth. +Among these trees, our guide told us, the buffalo had first been +sighted. + +The sun was very hot, and all the animals were still. We saw impalla in +the scrub, and many giraffes and bucks on the plains. After an hour and +a half's walk we entered the parklike groves at the foot of the hills, +and our guide began to proceed more cautiously. He moved forward a few +feet, peered about, retraced his steps. Suddenly his face broke into a +broad grin. Following his indication we looked up, and there in a tree +almost above us roosted one of our boys sound asleep! We whistled at +him. Thereupon he awoke, tried to look very alert, and pointed in the +direction we should go. After an interval we picked up another sentinel, +and another, and another until, passed on thus from one to the next, +we traced the movements of the herd. Finally we came upon Mavrouki and +Simba under a bush. From them, in whispers, we learned that the buffalo +were karibu sana-very near; that they had fed this far, and were now +lying in the long grass just ahead. Leaving the men, we now continued +our forward movement on hands and knees, in single file. It was very hot +work, for the sun beat square down on us, and the tall grass kept off +every breath of air. Every few moments we rested, lying on our faces. +Occasionally, when the grass shortened, or the slant of ground tended +to expose us, we lay quite flat and hitched forward an inch at a time by +the strength of our toes. This was very severe work indeed, and we were +drenched in perspiration. In fact, as I had been feeling quite ill all +day, it became rather doubtful whether I could stand the pace. + +However after a while we managed to drop down into an eroded deep little +ravine. Here the air was like that of a furnace, but at least we could +walk upright for a few rods. This we did, with the most extraordinary +precautions against even the breaking of a twig or the rolling of a +pebble. Then we clambered to the top of the bank, wormed our way forward +another fifty feet to the shelter of a tiny bush, and stretched out to +recuperate. We lay there some time, sheltered from the sun. Then ahead +of us suddenly rumbled a deep bellow. We were fairly upon the herd! + +Cautiously F., who was nearest the centre of the bush, raised himself +alongside the stem to look. He could see where the beasts were lying, +not fifty yards away, but he could make out nothing but the fact of +great black bodies taking their ease in the grass under the shade of +trees. So much he reported to us; then rose again to keep watch. + +Thus we waited the rest of the afternoon. The sun dipped at last toward +the west, a faint irregular breeze wandered down from the hills, certain +birds awoke and uttered their clear calls, an unsuspected kongoni +stepped from the shade of a tree over the way and began to crop the +grass, the shadows were lengthening through the trees. Then ahead of +us an uneasiness ran through the herd. We in the grass could hear the +mutterings and grumblings of many great animals. Suddenly F. snapped his +fingers, stooped low and darted forward. We scrambled to our feet and +followed. + +Across a short open space we ran, bent double to the shelter of a big +ant hill. Peering over the top of this we found ourselves within sixty +yards of a long compact column of the great black beasts, moving forward +orderly to the left, the points of the cow's horns, curved up and in, +tossing slowly as the animals walked. On the flank of the herd was a big +gray bull. + +It had been agreed that B. was to have the shot. Therefore he opened +fire with his 405 Winchester, a weapon altogether too light for this +sort of work. At the shot the herd dashed forward to an open grass +meadow a few rods away, wheeled and faced back in a compact mass, their +noses thrust up and out in their typical fashion, trying with all their +senses to locate the cause of the disturbance. + +Taking advantage both of the scattered cover, and the half light of the +shadows we slipped forward as rapidly and as unobtrusively as we could +to the edge of the grass meadow. Here we came to a stand eighty yards +from the buffaloes. They stood compactly like a herd of cattle, staring, +tossing their heads, moving slightly, their wild eyes searching for us. +I saw several good bulls, but always they moved where it was impossible +to shoot without danger of getting the wrong beast. Finally my chance +came; I planted a pair of Holland bullets in the shoulder of one of +them. + +The herd broke away to the right, sweeping past us at close range. My +bull ran thirty yards with them, then went down stone dead. When we +examined him we found the hole made by B.'s Winchester bullet; so that +quite unintentionally and by accident I had fired at the same beast. +This was lucky. The trophy, by hunter's law, of course, belonged to B. + +Therefore F. and I alone followed on after the herd. It was now coming +on dusk. Within a hundred yards we began to see scattered beasts. The +formation of the herd had broken. Some had gone on in flight, while +others in small scattered groups would stop to stare back, and would +then move slowly on for a few paces before stopping again. Among these +I made out a bull facing us about a hundred and twenty-five yards away, +and managed to stagger him, but could not bring him down. + +Now occurred an incident which I should hesitate to relate were it not +that both F. and myself saw it. We have since talked it over, compared +our recollections, and found them to coincide in every particular. + +As we moved cautiously in pursuit of the slowly retreating herd three +cows broke back and came running down past us. We ducked aside and hid, +of course, but noticed that of the three two were very young, while one +was so old that she had become fairly emaciated, a very unusual thing +with buffaloes. We then followed the herd for twenty minutes, or until +twilight, when we turned back. About halfway down the slope we again met +the three cows, returning. They passed us within twenty yards, but paid +us no attention whatever. The old cow was coming along very reluctantly, +hanging back at every step, and every once in a while swinging her head +viciously at one or the other of her two companions. These escorted her +on either side, and a little to the rear. They were plainly urging her +forward, and did not hesitate to dig her in the ribs with their horns +whenever she turned especially obstinate. In fact they acted exactly +like a pair of cowboys HERDING a recalcitrant animal back to its band +and I have no doubt at all that when they first by us the old lady was +making a break for liberty in the wrong direction, AND THAT THE TWO +YOUNGER COWS WERE TRYING TO ROUND HER BACK! Whether they were her +daughters or not is problematical; but it certainly seemed that they +were taking care of her and trying to prevent her running back where +it was dangerous to go. I never heard of a similar case, though Herbert +Ward* mentions, without particulars that elephants AND BUFFALOES will +assist each other WHEN WOUNDED. + + * A Voice from the Congo. + +After passing these we returned to where B. and the men, who had now +come up, had prepared the dead bull for transportation. We started at +once, travelling by the stars, shouting and singing to discourage the +lions, but did not reach camp until well into the night. + + + + + +XXV. THE BUFFALO-continued + +Some months later, and many hundreds of miles farther south, Billy and +I found ourselves alone with twenty men, and two weeks to pass until +C.-our companion at the time-should return from a long journey out with +a wounded man. By slow stages, and relaying back and forth, we landed in +a valley so beautiful in every way that we resolved to stay as long as +possible. This could be but five days at most. At the end of that time +we must start for our prearranged rendezvous with C. + +The valley was in the shape of an ellipse, the sides of which were +formed by great clifflike mountains, and the other two by hills lower, +but still of considerable boldness and size. The longest radius was +perhaps six or eight miles, and the shortest three or four. At one end +a canyon dropped away to a lower level, and at the other a pass in the +hills gave over to the country of the Narassara River. The name of the +valley was Lengeetoto. + +From the great mountains flowed many brooks of clear sparkling water, +that ran beneath the most beautiful of open jungles, to unite finally in +one main stream that disappeared down the canyon. Between these brooks +were low broad rolling hills, sometimes grass covered, sometimes grown +thinly with bushes. Where they headed in the mountains, long stringers +of forest trees ran up to blocklike groves, apparently pasted like +wafers against the base of the cliffs, but in reality occupying spacious +slopes below them. + +We decided to camp at the foot of a long grass slant within a hundred +yards of the trees along one of the small streams. Before us we had the +sweep of brown grass rising to a clear cut skyline; and all about us the +distant great hills behind which the day dawned and fell. One afternoon +a herd of giraffes stood silhouetted on this skyline quite a half hour +gazing curiously down on our camp. Hartebeeste and zebra swarmed in +the grassy openings; and impalla in the brush. We saw sing-sing and +steinbuck, and other animals, and heard lions nearly every night. But +principally we elected to stay because a herd of buffaloes ranged the +foothills and dwelt in the groves of forest trees under the cliffs. We +wanted a buffalo; and as Lengeetoto is practically unknown to white men, +we thought this a good chance to get one. In that I reckoned without +the fact that at certain seasons the Masai bring their cattle in, and at +such times annoy the buffalo all they can. + +We started out well enough. I sent Memba Sasa with two men to locate the +herd. About three o'clock a messenger came to camp after me. We plunged +through our own jungle, crossed a low swell, traversed another jungle, +and got in touch with the other two men. They reported the buffalo +had entered the thicket a few hundred yards below us. Cautiously +reconnoitering the ground it soon became evident that we would be forced +more definitely to locate the herd. To be sure, they had entered the +stream jungle at a known point, but there could be no telling how far +they might continue in the thicket, nor on what side of it they would +emerge at sundown. Therefore we commenced cautiously and slowly follow +the trail. + +The going was very thick, naturally, and we could not see very far +ahead. Our object was not now to try for a bull, but merely to find +where the herd was feeding, in order that we might wait for it to come +out. However, we were brought to a stand, in the middle of a jungle of +green leaves, by the cropping sound of a beast grazing just the other +side of a bush. We could not see it, and we stood stock still in the +hope of escaping discovery ourselves. But an instant later a sudden +crash of wood told us we had been seen. It was near work. The gunbearers +crouched close to me. I held the heavy double gun ready. If the beast +had elected to charge I would have had less than ten yards within which +to stop it. Fortunately it did not do so. But instantly the herd was +afoot and off at full speed. A locomotive amuck in a kindling pile could +have made no more appalling a succession of rending crashes than did +those heavy animals rushing here and there through the thick woody +growth. We could see nothing. Twice the rush started in our direction, +but stopped as suddenly as it had begun, to be succeeded by absolute +stillness when everything, ourselves included, held its breath to +listen. Finally, the first panic over, the herd started definitely away +downstream. We ran as fast as we could out of the jungle to a commanding +position on the hill. Thence we could determine the course of the herd. +It continued on downstream as far as we could follow the sounds in the +convolutions of the hills. Realizing that it would improbably recover +enough from its alarmed condition to resume its regular habits that day, +we returned to camp. + +Next morning Memba Sasa and I were afield before daylight. We took no +other men. In hunting I am a strong disbeliever in the common habit of +trailing along a small army. It is simple enough, in case the kill +is made, to send back for help. No matter how skilful your men are at +stalking, the chances of alarming the game are greatly increased +by numbers; while the possibilities of misunderstanding the plan of +campaign, and so getting into the wrong place at the wrong time, are +infinite. Alone, or with one gunbearer, a man can slip in and out a herd +of formidable animals with the least chances of danger. Merely going out +after camp meat is of course a different matter. + +We did not follow in the direction taken by the herd the night before, +but struck off toward the opposite side of the valley. For two hours we +searched the wooded country at the base of the cliff mountains, working +slowly around the circle, examining every inlet, ravine and gully. +Plenty of other sorts of game we saw, including elephant tracks not +a half hour old; but no buffalo. About eight o'clock, however, while +looking through my glasses, I caught sight of some tiny chunky black +dots crawling along below the mountains diagonally across the valley, +and somewhat over three miles away. We started in that direction as fast +as we could walk. At the end of an hour we surmounted the last swell, +and stood at the edge of a steep drop. Immediately below us flowed a +good-sized stream through a high jungle over the tops of which we looked +to a triangular gentle slope overgrown with scattered bushes and high +grass. Beyond this again ran another jungle, angling up hill from +the first, to end in a forest of trees about thirty or forty acres in +extent. This jungle and these trees were backed up against the slope of +the mountain. The buffaloes we had first seen above the grove: they must +now have sought cover among either the trees or the lower jungle, and +it seemed reasonable that the beasts would emerge on the grass and bush +area late in the afternoon. Therefore Memba Sasa and I selected good +comfortable sheltered spots, leaned our backs against rocks, and +resigned ourselves to long patience. It was now about nine o'clock in +the morning, and we could not expect our game to come out before half +past three at earliest. We could not, however, go away to come back +later because of the chance that the buffaloes might take it into their +heads to go travelling. I had been fooled that way before. For this +reason, also, it was necessary, every five minutes or so, to examine +carefully all our boundaries; lest the beasts might be slipping away +through the cover. + +The hours passed very slowly. We made lunch last as long as possible. I +had in my pocket a small edition of Hawthorne's “The House of the Seven +Gables,” which I read, pausing every few minutes to raise my glasses +for the periodical examination of the country. The mental focussing +back from the pale gray half light of Hawthorne's New England to the +actuality of wild Africa was a most extraordinary experience. + +Through the heat of the day the world lay absolutely silent. At about +half-past three, however, we heard rumblings and low bellows from the +trees a half mile away. I repocketed Hawthorne, and aroused myself to +continuous alertness. + +The ensuing two hours passed more slowly than all the rest of the +day, for we were constantly on the lookout. The buffaloes delayed most +singularly, seemingly reluctant to leave their deep cover. The sun +dropped behind the mountains, and their shadow commenced to climb the +opposite range. I glanced at my watch. We had not more than a half hour +of daylight left. + +Fifteen minutes of this passed. It began to look as though our long +and monotonous wait had been quite in vain; when, right below us, and +perhaps five hundred yards away, four great black bodies fed leisurely +from the bushes. Three of them we could see plainly. Two were bulls +of fair size. The fourth, half concealed in the brush, was by far the +biggest of the lot. + +In order to reach them we would have to slip down the face of the hill +on which we sat, cross the stream jungle at the bottom, climb out the +other side, and make our stalk to within range. With a half hour more +of daylight this would have been comparatively easy, but in such +circumstances it is difficult to move at the same time rapidly and +unseen. However, we decided to make the attempt. To that end we +disencumbered ourselves of all our extras-lunch box, book, kodak, +glasses, etc.-and wormed our way as rapidly as possible toward the +bottom of the hill. We utilized the cover as much as we were able, but +nevertheless breathed a sigh of relief when we had dropped below the +line of the jungle. We wasted very little time crossing the latter, +save for precautions against noise. Even in my haste, however, I had +opportunity to notice its high and austere character, with the arching +overhead vines, and the clear freedom from undergrowth in its heart. +Across this cleared space we ran at full speed, crouching below the +grasp of the vines, splashed across the brook and dashed up the other +bank. Only a faint glimmer of light lingered in the jungle. At the upper +edge we paused, collected ourselves, and pushed cautiously through the +thick border-screen of bush. + +The twilight was just fading into dusk. Of course we had taken our +bearings from the other hill; so now, after reassuring ourselves of +them, we began to wriggle our way at a great pace through the high +grass. Our calculations were quite accurate. We stalked successfully, +and at last, drenched in sweat, found ourselves lying flat within ten +yards of a small bush behind which we could make out dimly the black +mass of the largest beast we had seen from across the way. + +Although it was now practically dark, we had the game in our own hands. +From our low position the animal, once it fed forward from behind the +single small bush, would be plainly outlined against the sky, and at ten +yards I should be able to place my heavy bullets properly, even in the +dark. Therefore, quite easy in our minds, we lay flat and rested. At the +end of twenty seconds the animal began to step forward. I levelled my +double gun, ready to press trigger the moment the shoulder appeared in +the clear. Then against the saffron sky emerged the ugly outline and two +upstanding horns of a rhinoceros! + +“Faru!” I whispered disgustedly to Memba Sasa. With infinite pains we +backed out, then retreated to a safe distance. It was of course now too +late to hunt up the three genuine buffaloes of this ill-assorted group. + +In fact our main necessity was to get through the river jungle before +the afterglow had faded from the sky, leaving us in pitch darkness. +I sent Memba Sasa across to pick up the effects we had left on the +opposite ridge, while I myself struck directly across the flat toward +camp. + +I had plunged ahead thus, for two or three hundred yards, when I was +brought up short by the violent snort of a rhinoceros just off the +starboard bow. He was very close, but I was unable to locate him in the +dusk. A cautious retreat and change of course cleared me from him, and +I was about to start on again full speed when once more I was halted by +another rhinoceros, this time dead ahead. Attempting to back away from +him, I aroused another in my rear; and as though this were not enough a +fourth opened up to the left. + +It was absolutely impossible to see anything ten yards away unless it +happened to be silhouetted against the sky. I backed cautiously toward +a little bush, with a vague idea of having something to dodge around. +As the old hunter said when, unarmed, he met the bear, “Anything, even +a newspaper, would have come handy.” To my great joy I backed against +a conical ant hill four or five feet high. This I ascended and began +anti-rhino demonstrations. I had no time to fool with rhinos, anyway. I +wanted to get through that jungle before the leopards left their family +circles. I hurled clods of earth and opprobrious shouts and epithets +in the four directions of my four obstreperous friends, and I thought +I counted four reluctant departures. Then, with considerable doubt, I +descended from my ant hill and hurried down the slope, stumbling +over grass hummocks, colliding with bushes, tangling with vines, but +progressing in a gratifyingly rhinoless condition. Five minutes cautious +but rapid feeling my way brought me through the jungle. Shortly after I +raised the campfires; and so got home. + +The next two days were repetitions, with slight variation, of this +experience, minus the rhinos! Starting from camp before daylight we were +only in time to see the herd-always aggravatingly on the other side of +the cover, no matter which side we selected for our approach, slowly +grazing into the dense jungle. And always they emerged so late and so +far away that our very best efforts failed to get us near them before +dark. The margin always so narrow, however, that our hopes were alive. + +On the fourth day, which must be our last in Longeetoto, we found that +the herd had shifted to fresh cover three miles along the base of the +mountains. We had no faith in those buffaloes, but about half-past three +we sallied forth dutifully and took position on a hill overlooking the +new hiding place. This consisted of a wide grove of forest trees varied +by occasional open glades and many dense thickets. So eager were we to +win what had by now developed into a contest that I refused to shoot a +lioness with a three-quarters-grown cub that appeared within easy shot +from some reeds below us. + +Time passed as usual until nearly sunset. Then through an opening into +one of the small glades we caught sight of the herd travelling slowly +but steadily from right to left. The glimpse was only momentary, but it +was sufficient to indicate the direction from which we might expect them +to emerge. Therefore we ran at top speed down from our own hill, tore +through the jungle at its foot, and hastily, but with more caution, +mounted the opposite slope through the scattered groves and high grass. +We could hear occasionally indications of the buffaloes' slow advance, +and we wanted to gain a good ambuscade above them before they emerged. +We found it in the shape of a small conical hillock perched on the +side hill itself, and covered with long grass. It commanded open vistas +through the scattered trees in all directions. And the thicket itself +ended not fifty yards away. No buffalo could possibly come out without +our seeing him; and we had a good half hour of clear daylight before us. +It really seemed that luck had changed at last. + +We settled ourselves, unlimbered for action, and got our breath. The +buffaloes came nearer and nearer. At length, through a tiny opening a +hundred yards away, we could catch momentary glimpses of their great +black bodies. I thrust forward the safety catch and waited. Finally +a half dozen of the huge beasts were feeding not six feet inside the +circle of brush, and only thirty-odd yards from where we lay. + +And they came no farther! I never passed a more heart-breaking half hour +of suspense than that in which little by little the daylight and our +hopes faded, while those confounded buffaloes moved slowly out to the +very edge of the thicket, turned, and moved as slowly back again. At +times they came actually into view. We could see their sleek black +bodies rolling lazily into sight and back again, like seals on the +surface of water, but never could we make out more than that. I could +have had a dozen good shots, but I could not even guess what I would be +shooting at. And the daylight drained away and the minutes ticked by! + +Finally, as I could see no end to this performance save that to which we +had been so sickeningly accustomed in the last four days, I motioned to +Memba Sasa, and together we glided like shadows into the thicket. + +There it was already dusk. We sneaked breathlessly through the small +openings, desperately in a hurry, almost painfully on the alert. In the +dark shadow sixty yards ahead stood a half dozen monstrous bodies all +facing our way. They suspected the presence of something unusual, but in +the darkness and the stillness they could neither identify it nor locate +it exactly. I dropped on one knee and snatched my prism glasses to my +eyes. The magnification enabled me to see partially into the shadows. +Every one of the group carried the sharply inturned points to the horns: +they were all cows! + +An instant after I had made out this fact, they stampeded across our +face. The whole band thundered and crashed away. + +Desperately we sprang after them, our guns atrail, our bodies stooped +low to keep down in the shadow of the earth. And suddenly, without the +slightest warning we plumped around a bush square on top of the entire +herd. It had stopped and was staring back in our direction. I could see +nothing but the wild toss of a hundred pair of horns silhouetted against +such of the irregular saffron afterglow as had not been blocked off by +the twigs and branches of the thicket. All below was indistinguishable +blackness. + +They stood in a long compact semicircular line thirty yards away, quite +still, evidently staring intently into the dusk to find out what had +alarmed them. At any moment they were likely to make another rush; +and if they did so in the direction they were facing, they would most +certainly run over us and trample us down. + +Remembering the dusk I thought it likely that the unexpected vivid flash +of the gun might turn them off before they got started. Therefore I +raised the big double Holland, aimed below the line of heads, and was +just about to pull trigger when my eye caught the silhouette of a pair +of horns whose tips spread out instead of turning in. This was a bull, +and I immediately shifted the gun in his direction. At the heavy double +report, the herd broke wildly to right and left and thundered away. I +confess I was quite relieved. + +A low moaning bellow told us that our bull was down. The last few days' +experience at being out late had taught us wisdom so Memba Sasa had +brought a lantern. By the light of this, we discovered our bull down, +and all but dead. To make sure, I put a Winchester bullet into his +backbone. + +We felt ourselves legitimately open to congratulations, for we had +killed this bull from a practically nocturnal herd, in the face of +considerable danger and more than considerable difficulty. Therefore we +shook hands and made appropriate remarks to each other, lacking anybody +to make them for us. + +By now it was pitch dark in the thicket, and just about so outside. We +had to do a little planning. I took the Holland gun, gave Memba Sasa the +Winchester, and started him for camp after help. As he carried off the +lantern, it was now up to me to make a fire and to make it quickly. + +For the past hour a fine drizzle had been falling; and the whole country +was wet from previous rains. I hastily dragged in all the dead wood I +could find near, collected what ought to be good kindling, and started +in to light a fire. Now, although I am no Boy Scout, I have lit several +fires in my time. But never when I was at the same time in such a +desperate need and hurry; and in possession of such poor materials. The +harder I worked, the worse things sputtered and smouldered. Probably +the relief from the long tension of the buffalo hunt had something to +do with my general piffling inefficiency. If I had taken time to do a +proper job once instead of a halfway job a dozen times, as I should have +done and usually would have done, I would have had a fire in no time. +I imagine I was somewhat scared. The lioness and her hulking cub had +smelled the buffalo and were prowling around. I could hear them purring +and uttering their hollow grunts. However, at last the flame held. I +fed it sparingly, lit a pipe, placed the Holland gun next my hand, and +resigned myself to waiting. For two hours this was not so bad. I smoked, +and rested up, and dried out before my little fire. Then my fuel began +to run low. I arose and tore down all the remaining dead limbs within +the circle of my firelight. These were not many, so I stepped out into +the darkness for more. Immediately I was warned back by a deep growl! + +The next hour was not one of such solid comfort. I began to get +parsimonious about my supply of firewood, trying to use it in such a +manner as to keep up an adequate blaze, and at the same time to make it +last until Memba Sasa should return with the men. I did it, though I got +down to charred ends before I was through. The old lioness hung around +within a hundred yards or so below, and the buffalo herd, returning, +filed by above, pausing to stamp and snort at the fire. Finally, about +nine o'clock, I made out two lanterns bobbing up to me through the +trees. + +The last incident to be selected from many experiences with buffaloes +took place in quite an unvisited district over the mountains from the +Loieta Plains. For nearly two months we had ranged far in this lovely +upland country of groves and valleys and wide grass bottoms between +hills, hunting for greater kudu. One day we all set out from camp to +sweep the base of a range of low mountains in search of a good specimen +of Newman's hartebeeste, or anything else especially desirable that +might happen along. The gentle slope from the mountains was of grass cut +by numerous small ravines grown with low brush. This brush was so scanty +as to afford but indifferent cover for anything larger than one of the +small grass antelopes. All the ravines led down a mile or so to a deeper +main watercourse paralleling the mountains. Some water stood in the +pools here; and the cover was a little more dense, but consisted at best +of but a “stringer” no wider than a city street. Flanking the stringer +were scattered high bushes for a few yards; and then the open country. +Altogether as unlikely a place for the shade-loving buffalo as could be +imagined. + +We collected our Newmanii after rather a long hunt; and just at noon, +when the heat of the day began to come on, we wandered down to the water +for lunch. Here we found a good clear pool and drank. The boys began to +make themselves comfortable by the water's edge; C. went to superintend +the disposal of Billy's mule. Billy had sat down beneath the shade of +the most hospitable of the bushes a hundred feet or so away, and was +taking off her veil and gloves. I was carrying to her the lunch box. +When I was about halfway from where the boys were drinking at the +stream's edge to where she sat, a buffalo bull thrust his head from the +bushes just the other side of her. His head was thrust up and forward, +as he reached after some of the higher tender leaves on the bushes. So +close was he that I could see plainly the drops glistening on his moist +black nose. As for Billy, peacefully unwinding her long veil, she seemed +fairly under the beast. + +I had no weapon, and any moment might bring some word or some noise that +would catch the animal's attention. Fortunately, for the moment, every +one, relaxed in the first reaction after the long morning, was keeping +silence. If the buffalo should look down, he could not fail to see +Billy; and if he saw her, he would indubitably kill her. + +As has been explained, snapping the fingers does not seem to reach the +attention of wild animals. Therefore I snapped mine as vigorously as I +knew how. Billy heard, looked toward me, turned in the direction of my +gaze, and slowly sank prone against the ground. Some of the boys heard +me also, and I could see the heads of all of them popping up in interest +from the banks of the stream. My cautious but very frantic signals to +lie low were understood: the heads dropped back. Mavrouki, a rifle +in each hand, came worming his way toward me through the grass with +incredible quickness and agility. A moment later he thrust the 405 +Winchester into my hand. + +This weapon, powerful and accurate as it is, the best of the lot for +lions, was altogether too small for the tremendous brute before +me. However, the Holland was in camp; and I was very glad in the +circumstances to get this. The buffalo had browsed slowly forward into +the clear, and was now taking the top off a small bush, and facing half +away from us. It seemed to me quite the largest buffalo I had ever seen, +though I should have been willing to have acknowledged at that moment +that the circumstances had something to do with the estimate. However, +later we found that the impression was correct. He was verily a giant of +his kind. His height at the shoulder was five feet ten inches; and +his build was even chunkier than the usual solid robust pattern of +buffaloes. For example, his neck, just back of the horns, was two feet +eight inches thick! He weighed not far from three thousand pounds. + +Once the rifle was in my hands I lost the feeling of utter helplessness, +and began to plan the best way out of the situation. As yet the beast +was totally unconscious of our presence; but that could not continue +long. There were too many men about. A chance current of air from any +one of a half dozen directions could not fail to give him the scent. +Then there would be lively doings. It was exceedingly desirable to +deliver the first careful blow of the engagement while he was unaware. +On the other hand, his present attitude-half away from me-was not +favourable; nor, in my exposed position dared I move to a better place. +There seemed nothing better than to wait; so wait we did. Mavrouki +crouched close at my elbow, showing not the faintest indication of a +desire to be anywhere but there. + +The buffalo browsed for a minute or so; then swung slowly broadside on. +So massive and low were the bosses of his horns that the brain shot +was impossible. Therefore I aimed low in the shoulder. The shock of the +bullet actually knocked that great beast off his feet! My respect for +the hitting power of the 405 went up several notches. The only +trouble was that he rebounded like a rubber ball. Without an instant's +hesitation I gave him another in the same place. This brought him to +his knees for an instant; but he was immediately afoot again. Billy +had, with great good sense and courage, continued to lie absolutely flat +within a few yards of the beast, Mavrouki and I had kept low, and C. and +the men were out of sight. The buffalo therefore had seen none of his +antagonists. He charged at a guess, and guessed wrong. As he went by +I fired at his head, and, as we found out afterward, broke his jaw. A +moment later C.'s great elephant gun roared from somewhere behind me as +he fired by a glimpse through the brush at the charging animal. It was +an excellent snapshot, and landed back of the ribs. + +When the buffalo broke through the screen of brush I dashed after him, +for I thought our only chance of avoiding danger lay in keeping close +track of where that buffalo went. On the other side the bushes I found a +little grassy opening, and then a small but dense thicket into which the +animal had plunged. To my left, C. was running up, followed closely by +Billy, who, with her usual good sense, had figured out the safest place +to be immediately back of the guns. We came together at the thicket's +edge. + +The animal's movements could be plainly followed by the sound of his +crashing. We heard him dash away some distance, pause, circle a bit to +the right, and then come rushing back in our direction. Stooping low +we peered into the darkness of the thicket. Suddenly we saw him, not +a dozen yards away. He was still afoot, but very slow. I dropped the +magazine of five shots into him as fast as I could work the lever. We +later found all the bullet-holes in a spot as big as the palm of your +hand. These successive heavy blows delivered all in the same place were +too much for even his tremendous vitality; and slowly he sank on his +side. + + + + + +XXVI. JUJA + +Most people have heard of Juja, the modern dwelling in the heart of an +African wilderness, belonging to our own countryman, Mr. W. N. +McMillan. If most people are as I was before I saw the place, they have +considerable curiosity and no knowledge of what it is and how it looks. + +We came to Juja at the end of a wide circle that had lasted three +months, and was now bringing us back again toward our starting point. +For five days we had been camped on top a high bluff at the junction of +two rivers. When we moved we dropped down the bluff, crossed one river, +and, after some searching, found our way up the other bluff. There we +were on a vast plain bounded by mountains thirty miles away. A large +white and unexpected sign told us we were on Juja Farm, and warned us +that we should be careful of our fires in the long grass. + +For an hour we plodded slowly along. Herds of zebra and hartebeeste drew +aside before us, dark heavy wildebeeste-the gnu-stood in groups at a +safe distance their heads low, looking exactly like our vanished bison; +ghostlike bands of Thompson's gazelles glided away with their smooth +regular motion. On the vast and treeless plains single small objects +standing above the general uniformity took an exaggerated value; so +that, before it emerged from the swirling heat mirage, a solitary tree +might easily be mistaken for a group of buildings or a grove. Finally, +however, we raised above the horizon a dark straight clump of trees. It +danced in the mirage, and blurred and changed form, but it persisted. +A strange patch of white kept appearing and disappearing again. This +resolved itself into the side of a building. A spider-legged water tower +appeared above the trees. + +Gradually we drew up on these. A bit later we swung to the right around +a close wire fence ten feet high, passed through a gate, and rode down +a long slanting avenue of young trees. Between the trees were century +plants and flowers, and a clipped border ran before them. The avenue +ended before a low white bungalow, with shady verandas all about it, and +vines. A formal flower garden lay immediately about it, and a very tall +flag pole had been planted in front. A hundred feet away the garden +dropped off steep to one of the deep river canyons. + +Two white-robed Somalis appeared on the veranda to inform us that +McMillan was off on safari. Our own boys approaching at this moment, we +thereupon led them past the house, down another long avenue of trees and +flowers, out into an open space with many buildings at its edges, past +extensive stables, and through another gate to the open plains once +more. Here we made camp. After lunch we went back to explore. + +Juja is situated on the top of a high bluff overlooking a river. In +all directions are tremendous grass plains. Donya Sabuk-the Mountain of +Buffaloes-is the only landmark nearer than the dim mountains beyond +the edge of the world, and that is a day's journey away. A rectangle of +possibly forty acres has been enclosed on three sides by animal-proof +wire fence. The fourth side is the edge of the bluff. Within this +enclosure have been planted many trees, now of good size; a pretty +garden with abundance of flowers, ornamental shrubs, a sundial, and +lawns. In the river bottom land below the bluff is a very extensive +vegetable and fruit garden, with cornfields, and experimental plantings +of rubber, and the like. For the use of the people of Juja here are +raised a great variety and abundance of vegetables, fruits, and grains. + +Juja House, as has been said, stands back a hundred feet from a bend +in the bluffs that permits a view straight up the river valley. It +is surrounded by gardens and trees, and occupies all one end of the +enclosed rectangle. Farther down and perched on the edge of a bluff, +are several pretty little bungalows for the accommodation of the +superintendent and his family, for the bachelors' mess, for the farm +offices and dispensary, and for the dairy room, the ice-plant and the +post-office and telegraph station. Back of and inland from this row on +the edge of the cliff, and scattered widely in open space, are a large +store stocked with everything on earth, the Somali quarters of low +whitewashed buildings, the cattle corrals, the stables, wild animal +cages, granaries, blacksmith and carpenter shops, wagon sheds and the +like. Outside the enclosure, and a half mile away, are the conical grass +huts that make up the native village. Below the cliff is a concrete dam, +an electric light plant, a pumping plant and a few details of the sort. + +Such is a relief map of Juja proper. Four miles away, and on another +river, is Long Juja, a strictly utilitarian affair where grow ostriches, +cattle, sheep, and various irrigated things in the bottom land. All +the rest of the farm, or estate, or whatever one would call it, is open +plain, with here and there a river bottom, or a trifle of brush cover. +But never enough to constitute more than an isolated and lonesome patch. + +Before leaving London we had received from McMillan earnest assurances +that he kept open house, and that we must take advantage of his +hospitality should we happen his way. Therefore when one of his +white-robed Somalis approached us to inquire respectfully as to what +we wanted for dinner, we yielded weakly to the temptation and told him. +Then we marched us boldly to the house and took possession. + +All around the house ran a veranda, shaded bamboo curtains and vines, +furnished with the luxurious teakwood chairs of the tropics of which you +can so extend the arms as to form two comfortable and elevated rests for +your feet. Horns of various animals ornamented the walls. A megaphone +and a huge terrestrial telescope on a tripod stood in one corner. +Through the latter one could examine at favourable times the herds of +game on the plains. + +And inside-mind you, we were fresh from three months in the +wilderness-we found rugs, pictures, wall paper, a pianola, many books, +baths, beautiful white bedrooms with snowy mosquito curtains, electric +lights, running water, and above all an atmosphere of homelike comfort. +We fell into easy chairs, and seized books and magazines. The Somalis +brought us trays with iced and fizzy drinks in thin glasses. When +the time came we crossed the veranda in the rear to enter a spacious +separate dining-room. The table was white with napery, glittering with +silver and glass, bright with flowers. We ate leisurely of a well-served +course dinner, ending with black coffee, shelled nuts, and candied +fruit. Replete and satisfied we strolled back across the veranda to the +main house. F. raised his hand. + +“Hark!” he admonished us. + +We held still. From the velvet darkness came the hurried petulant +barking of zebra; three hyenas howled. + + + + + +XXVII. A VISIT AT JUJA + +Next day we left all this; and continued our march. About a month later, +however, we encountered McMillan himself in Nairobi. I was just out from +a very hard trip to the coast-Billy not with me-and wanted nothing so +much as a few days' rest. McMillan's cordiality was not to be denied, +however, so the very next day found us tucking ourselves into a +buckboard behind four white Abyssinian mules. McMillan, some Somalis +and Captain Duirs came along in another similar rig. Our driver was a +Hottentot half-caste from South Africa. He had a flat face, a yellow +skin, a quiet manner, and a competent hand. His name was Michael. At his +feet crouched a small Kikuyu savage, in blanket ear ornaments and all +the fixings, armed with a long lashed whip and raucous voice. At +any given moment he was likely to hop out over the moving wheel, run +forward, bat the off leading mule, and hop back again, all with the +most extraordinary agility. He likewise hurled what sounded like very +opprobrious epithets at such natives as did not get out the way quickly +enough to suit him. The expression of his face, which was that of a +person steeped in woe, never changed. + +We rattled out of Nairobi at a great pace, and swung into the Fort Hall +Road. This famous thoroughfare, one of the three or four made roads in +all East Africa, is about sixty miles long. It is a strategic necessity +but is used by thousands of natives on their way to see the sights of +the great metropolis. As during the season there is no water for much of +the distance, a great many pay for their curiosity with their lives. The +road skirts the base of the hills, winding in and out of shallow canyons +and about the edges of rounded hills. To the right one can see far out +across the Athi Plains. + +We met an almost unbroken succession of people. There were long pack +trains of women, quite cheerful, bent over under the weight of firewood +or vegetables, many with babies tucked away in the folds of their +garments; mincing dandified warriors with poodle-dog hair, skewers in +their ears, their jewelery brought to a high polish a fatuous expression +of self-satisfaction on their faces, carrying each a section of +sugarcane which they now used as a staff but would later devour for +lunch; bearers, under convoy of straight soldierly red-sashed Sudanese, +transporting Government goods; wild-eyed staring shenzis from the +forest, with matted hair and goatskin garments, looking ready to bolt +aside at the slightest alarm; coveys of marvellous and giggling damsels, +their fine-grained skin anointed and shining with red oil, strung with +beads and shells, very coquettish and sure of their feminine charm; +naked small boys marching solemnly like their elders; camel trains from +far-off Abyssinia or Somaliland under convoy of white-clad turbaned +grave men of beautiful features; donkey safaris in charge of dirty +degenerate looking East Indians carrying trade goods to some distant +post-all these and many more, going one way or the other, drew one side, +at the sight of our white faces, to let us pass. + +About two o'clock we suddenly turned off from the road, apparently quite +at random, down the long grassy interminable incline that dipped slowly +down and slowly up again over great distance to form the Athi Plains. +Along the road, with its endless swarm of humanity, we had seen no game, +but after a half mile it began to appear. We encountered herds of zebra, +kongoni, wildebeeste, and “Tommies” standing about or grazing, sometimes +almost within range from the moving buckboard. After a time we made out +the trees and water tower of Juja ahead; and by four o'clock had turned +into the avenue of trees. Our approach had been seen. Tea was ready, and +a great and hospitable table of bottles, ice, and siphons. + +The next morning we inspected the stables, built of stone in a hollow +square, like a fort, with box stalls opening directly into the courtyard +and screened carefully against the deadly flies. The horses, beautiful +creatures, were led forth each by his proud and anxious syce. We tried +them all, and selected our mounts for the time of our stay. The syces +were small black men, lean and well formed, accustomed to running afoot +wherever their charges went, at walk, lope or gallop. Thus in a day they +covered incredible distances over all sorts of country; but were always +at hand to seize the bridle reins when the master wished to dismount. +Like the rickshaw runners in Nairobi, they wore their hair clipped close +around their bullet heads and seemed to have developed into a small +compact hard type of their own. They ate and slept with their horses. + +Just outside the courtyard of the stables a little barred window had +been cut through. Near this were congregated a number of Kikuyu savages +wrapped in their blankets, receiving each in turn a portion of cracked +corn from a dusty white man behind the bars. They were a solemn, +unsmiling, strange type of savage, and they performed all the manual +work within the enclosure, squatting on their heels and pulling +methodically but slowly at the weeds, digging with their pangas, +carrying loads: to and fro, or solemnly pushing a lawn mower, blankets +wrapped shamelessly about their necks. They were harried about by a +red-faced beefy English gardener with a marvellous vocabulary of +several native languages and a short hippo-hide whip. He talked himself +absolutely purple in the face without, as far as my observation went, +penetrating an inch below the surface. The Kikuyus went right on doing +what they were already doing in exactly the same manner. Probably the +purple Englishman was satisfied with that, but I am sure apoplexy of +either the heat or thundering variety has him by now. + +Before the store building squatted another group of savages. Perhaps +in time one of the lot expected to buy something; or possibly they just +sat. Nobody but a storekeeper would ever have time to find out. Such +is the native way. The storekeeper in this case was named John. Besides +being storekeeper, he had charge of the issuing of all the house +supplies, and those for the white men's mess; he must do all the +worrying about the upper class natives; he must occasionally kill a +buck for the meat supply; and he must be prepared to take out any stray +tenderfeet that happen along during McMillan's absence, and persuade +them that they are mighty hunters. His domain was a fascinating place, +for it contained everything from pianola parts to patent washstands. The +next best equipped place of the kind I know of is the property room of a +moving picture company. + +We went to mail a letter, and found the postmaster to be a +gentle-voiced, polite little Hindu, who greeted us smilingly, +and attempted to conceal a work of art. We insisted; whereupon he +deprecatingly drew forth a copy of a newspaper cartoon having to do with +Colonel Roosevelt's visit. It was copied with mathematical exactness, +and highly coloured in a manner to throw into profound melancholy +the chauffeur of a coloured supplement press. We admired and praised; +whereupon, still shyly, he produced more, and yet again more copies +of the same cartoon. When we left, he was reseating himself to the +painstaking valueless labour with which he filled his days. Three times +a week such mail as Juja gets comes in via native runner. We saw the +latter, a splendid figure, almost naked, loping easily, his little +bundle held before him. + +Down past the office and dispensary we strolled, by the comfortable, +airy, white man's clubhouse. The headman of the native population passed +us with a dignified salute; a fine upstanding deep-chested man, with a +lofty air of fierce pride. He and his handful of soldiers alone of the +natives, except the Somalis and syces, dwelt within the compound in +a group of huts near the gate. There when off duty they might be seen +polishing their arms, or chatting with their women. The latter were +ladies of leisure, with wonderful chignons, much jewelery, and patterned +Mericani wrapped gracefully about their pretty figures. + +By the time we had seen all these things it was noon. We ate lunch. The +various members of the party decided to do various things. I elected to +go out with McMillan while he killed a wildebeeste, and I am very glad I +did. It was a most astonishing performance. + +You must imagine us driving out the gate in a buckboard behind four +small but lively white Abyssinian mules. In the front seat were Michael, +the Hottentot driver, and McMillan's Somali gunbearer. In the rear seat +were McMillan and myself, while a small black syce perched precariously +behind. Our rifles rested in a sling before us. So we jogged out on the +road to Long Juju, examining with a critical eye the herds of game to +right and left of us. The latter examined us, apparently, with an eye as +critical. Finally, in a herd of zebra, we espied a lone wildebeeste. + +The wildebeeste is the Jekyll and Hyde of the animal kingdom. His +usual and familiar habit is that of a heavy, sluggish animal, like +our vanished bison. He stands solid and inert, his head down; he plods +slowly forward in single file, his horns swinging, each foot planted +deliberately. In short, he is the personification of dignity, solid +respectability, gravity of demeanour. But then all of a sudden, at any +small interruption, he becomes the giddiest of created beings. Up goes +his head and tail, he buck jumps, cavorts, gambols, kicks up his heels, +bounds stiff-legged, and generally performs like an irresponsible +infant. To see a whole herd at once of these grave and reverend +seigneurs suddenly blow up into such light-headed capers goes far to +destroy one's faith in the stability of institutions. + +Also the wildebeeste is not misnamed. He is a conservative, and he sees +no particular reason for allowing his curiosity to interfere with his +preconceived beliefs. The latter are distrustful. Therefore he and his +females and his young-I should say small-depart when one is yet far +away. I say small, because I do not believe that any wildebeeste is ever +young. They do not resemble calves, but are exact replicas of the big +ones, just as Niobe's daughters are in nothing childlike, but merely +smaller women. + +When we caught sight of this lone wildebeeste among the zebra, I +naturally expected that we would pull up the buckboard, descend, and +approach to within some sort of long range. Then we would open fire. +Barring luck, the wildebeeste would thereupon depart “wilder and +beestier than ever,” as John McCutcheon has it. Not at all! Michael, the +Hottentot, turned the buckboard off the road, headed toward the distant +quarry, and charged at full speed! Over stones we went that sent us feet +into the air, down and out of shallow gullies that seemed as though they +would jerk the pole from the vehicle with a grand rattlety-bang, every +one hanging on for his life. I was entirely occupied with the state of +my spinal column and the retention of my teeth, but McMillan must have +been keeping his eye on the game. One peculiarity of the wildebeeste +is that he cannot see behind him, and another is that he is curious. It +would not require a very large bump of curiosity, however, to cause any +animal to wonder what all the row was about. There could be no doubt +that this animal would sooner or later stop for an instant to look for +the purpose of seeing what was up in jungleland; and just before +doing so he would, for a few steps, slow down from a gallop to a trot. +McMillan was watching for this symptom. + +“Now!” he yelled, when he saw it. + +Instantly Michael threw his weight into the right rein and against the +brake. We swerved so violently to the right and stopped so suddenly +that I nearly landed on the broad prairies. The manoeuvre fetched us up +broadside. The small black syce-and heaven knows how HE had managed to +hang on-darted to the heads of the leading mules. At the same moment the +wildebeeste turned, and stopped; but even before he had swung his head, +McMillan had fired. It was extraordinarily good, quick work, the way he +picked up the long range from the spurts of dust where the bullets hit. +At the third or fourth shots he landed one. Immediately the beast +was off again at a tearing run pursued by a rapid fusillade from the +remaining shots. Then with a violent jerk and a wild yell we were off +again. + +This time, since the animal was wounded, he made for rougher country. +And everywhere that wildebeeste went we too were sure to go. We hit +or shaved boulders that ought to have smashed a wheel, we tore through +thick brush regardless. Twice we charged unhesitatingly over apparent +precipices. I do not know the name of the manufacturer of the buckboard. +If I did, I should certainly recommend it here. Twice more we swerved to +our broadside and cut loose the port batteries. Once more McMillan +hit. Then, on the fourth “run,” we gained perceptibly. The beast was +weakening. When he came to a stumbling halt we were not over a hundred +yards from him, and McMillan easily brought him down. We had chased him +four or five miles, and McMillan had fired nineteen shots, of which two +had hit. The rifle practice throughout had been remarkably good, and a +treat to watch. Personally, besides the fun of attending the show, I got +a mighty good afternoon's exercise. + +We loaded the game aboard and jogged slowly back to the house, for the +mules were pretty tired. We found a neighbour, Mr. Heatley of Kamiti +Ranch who had “dropped down” twelve miles to see us. On account of a +theft McMillan now had all the Somalis assembled for interrogation on +the side verandas. The interrogation did not amount to much, but while +it was going on the Sudanese headman and his askaris were quietly +searching the boys' quarters. After a time they appeared. The suspected +men had concealed nothing, but the searchers brought with them three of +McMillan's shirts which they had found among the effects of another, and +entirely unsuspected, boy named Abadie. + +“How is this, Abadie?” demanded McMillan sternly. + +Abadie hesitated. Then he evidently reflected that there is slight use +in having a deity unless one makes use of him. + +“Bwana,” said he with an engaging air of belief and candour, “God must +have put them there!” + +That evening we planned a “general day” for the morrow. We took boys and +buckboards and saddle-horses, beaters, shotguns, rifles, and revolvers, +and we sallied forth for a grand and joyous time. The day from a +sporting standpoint was entirely successful, the bag consisting of +two waterbuck, a zebra, a big wart-hog, six hares, and six grouse. +Personally I was a little hazy and uncertain. By evening the fever had +me, and though I stayed at Juja for six days longer, it was as a patient +to McMillan's unfailing kindness rather than as a participant in the +life of the farm. + + + + + +XXVIII. A RESIDENCE AT JUJA + +A short time later, at about middle of the rainy season, McMillan left +for a little fishing off Catalina Island. The latter is some fourteen +thousand miles of travel from Juja. Before leaving on this flying trip, +McMillan made us a gorgeous offer. + +“If,” said he, “you want to go it alone, you can go out and use Juja as +long as you please.” + +This offer, or, rather, a portion of it, you may be sure, we accepted +promptly. McMillan wanted in addition to leave us his servants; but to +this we would not agree. Memba Sasa and Mahomet were, of course, members +of our permanent staff. In addition to them we picked up another house +boy, named Leyeye. He was a Masai. These proud and aristocratic savages +rarely condescend to take service of any sort except as herders; but +when they do they prove to be unusually efficient and intelligent. We +had also a Somali cook, and six ordinary bearers to do general labour. +This small safari we started off afoot for Juja. The whole lot cost us +about what we would pay one Chinaman on the Pacific Coast. + +Next day we ourselves drove out in the mule buckboard. The rains were +on, and the road was very muddy. After the vital tropical fashion the +grass was springing tall in the natural meadows and on the plains and +the brief-lived white lilies and an abundance of ground flowers washed +the slopes with colour. Beneath the grass covering, the entire surface +of the ground was an inch or so deep in water. This was always most +surprising, for, apparently, the whole country should have been high +and dry. Certainly its level was that of a plateau rather than a bottom +land; so that one seemed always to be travelling at an elevation. +Nevertheless walking or riding we were continually splashing, and the +only dry going outside the occasional rare “islands” of the slight +undulations we found near the very edge of the bluffs above the rivers. +There the drainage seemed sufficient to carry off the excess. Elsewhere +the hardpan or bedrock must have been exceptionally level and near the +top of the ground. + +Nothing nor nobody seemed to mind this much. The game splashed around +merrily, cropping at the tall grass; the natives slopped indifferently, +and we ourselves soon became so accustomed to two or three inches of +water and wet feet that after the first two days we never gave those +phenomena a thought. + +The world above at this season of the year was magnificent. The African +heavens are always widely spacious, but now they seemed to have blown +even vaster than usual. In the sweep of the vision four or five heavy +black rainstorms would be trailing their skirts across an infinitely +remote prospect; between them white piled scud clouds and cumuli sailed +like ships; and from them reflected so brilliant a sunlight and behind +all showed so dazzling a blue sky that the general impression was of +a fine day. The rainstorms' gray veils slanted; tremendous patches of +shadow lay becalmed on the plains; bright sunshine poured abundantly its +warmth and yellow light. + +So brilliant with both direct and reflected light and the values of +contrast were the heavens, that when one happened to stand within one of +the great shadows it became extraordinarily difficult to make out game +on the plains. The pupils contracted to the brilliancy overhead. Often +too, near sunset, the atmosphere would become suffused with a lurid +saffron light that made everything unreal and ghastly. At such times +the game seemed puzzled by the unusual aspect of things. The zebra +especially would bark and stamp and stand their ground, and even come +nearer out of sheer curiosity. I have thus been within fifty yards of +them, right out in the open. At such times it was as though the sky, +instead of rounding over in the usual shape, had been thrust up at the +western horizon to the same incredible height as the zenith. In the +space thus created were piled great clouds through which slanted broad +bands of yellow light on a diminished world. + +It rained with great suddenness on our devoted heads, and with a curious +effect of metamorphoslng the entire universe. One moment all was clear +and smiling, with the trifling exception of distant rain squalls that +amounted to nothing in the general scheme. Then the horizon turned +black, and with incredible swiftness the dark clouds materialized out of +nothing, rolled high to the zenith like a wave, blotted out every last +vestige of brightness. A heavy oppressive still darkness breathed over +the earth. Then through the silence came a faraway soft drumming sound, +barely to be heard. As we bent our ears to catch this it grew louder and +louder, approaching at breakneck speed like a troop of horses. It became +a roar fairly terrifying in its mercilessly continued crescendo. At last +the deluge of rain burst actually as a relief. + +And what a deluge! Facing it we found difficulty in breathing. In six +seconds every stitch we wore was soaked through, and only the notebook, +tobacco, and matches bestowed craftily in the crown of the cork helmet +escaped. The visible world was dark and contracted. It seemed that +nothing but rain could anywhere exist; as though this storm must fill +all space to the horizon and beyond. Then it swept on and we found +ourselves steaming in bright sunlight. The dry flat prairie (if this +was the first shower for some time) had suddenly become a lake from the +surface of which projected bushes and clumps of grass. Every game trail +had become the water course of a swiftly running brook. + +But most pleasant were the evenings at Juja, when, safe indoors, we sat +and listened to the charge of the storm's wild horsemen, and the thunder +of its drumming on the tin roof. The onslaughts were as fierce and +abrupt as those of Cossacks, and swept by as suddenly. The roar died +away in the distance, and we could then hear the steady musical dripping +of waters. + +Pleasant it was also to walk out from Juja in almost any direction. The +compound, and the buildings and trees within it, soon dwindled in the +distances of the great flat plain. Herds of game were always in +sight, grazing, lying down, staring in our direction. The animals +were incredibly numerous. Some days they were fairly tame, and others +exceedingly wild, without any rhyme or reason. This shyness or the +reverse seemed not to be individual to one herd; but to be practically +universal. On a “wild day” everything was wild from the Lone Tree +to Long Juju. It would be manifestly absurd to guess at the reason. +Possibly the cause might be atmospheric or electrical; possibly days of +nervousness might follow nights of unusual activity by the lions; one +could invent a dozen possibilities. Perhaps the kongonis decided it. + +At Juja we got to know the kongonis even better than we had before. +They are comical, quizzical beasts, with long-nosed humorous faces, a +singularly awkward construction, a shambling gait; but with altruistic +dispositions and an ability to get over the ground at an extraordinary +speed. Every move is a joke; their expression is always one of grieved +but humorous astonishment. They quirk their heads sidewise or down and +stare at an intruder with the most comical air of skeptical wonder. +“Well, look who's here!” says the expression. + +“Pooh!” says the kongoni himself, after a good look, “pooh! pooh!” with +the most insulting inflection. + +He is very numerous and very alert. One or more of a grazing herd are +always perched as sentinels atop ant hills or similar small elevations. +On the slightest intimation of danger they give the alarm, whereupon the +herd makes off at once, gathering in all other miscellaneous game that +may be in the vicinity. They will go out of their way to do this, as +every African hunter knows. It immensely complicates matters; for the +sportsman must not only stalk his quarry, but he must stalk each and +every kongoni as well. Once, in another part of the country, C. and I +saw a kongoni leave a band of its own species far down to our right, +gallop toward us and across our front, pick up a herd of zebra we were +trying to approach and make off with them to safety. We cursed that +kongoni, but we admired him, for he deliberately ran out of safety into +danger for the purpose of warning those zebra. So seriously do they take +their job as policemen of the plains that it is very common for a lazy +single animal of another species to graze in a herd of kongonis simply +for the sake of protection. Wildebeeste are much given to this. + +The kongoni progresses by a series of long high bounds. While in +midair he half tucks up his feet, which gives him the appearance of an +automatic toy. This gait looks deliberate, but is really quite fast, as +the mounted sportsman discovers when he enters upon a vain pursuit. If +the horse is an especially good one, so that the kongoni feels himself +a trifle closely pressed, the latter stops bouncing and runs. Then he +simply fades away into the distance. + +These beasts are also given to chasing each other all over the +landscape. When a gentleman kongoni conceives a dislike for another +gentleman kongoni, he makes no concealment of his emotions, but marches +up and prods him in the ribs. The ensuing battle is usually fought +out very stubbornly with much feinting, parrying, clashing of the +lyre-shaped horns; and a good deal of crafty circling for a favourable +opening. As far as I was ever able to see not much real damage is +inflicted; though I could well imagine that only skilful fence prevented +unpleasant punctures in soft spots. After a time one or the other feels +himself weakening. He dashes strongly in, wheels while his antagonist is +braced, and makes off. The enemy pursues. Then, apparently, the chase +is on for the rest of the day. The victor is not content merely to drive +his rival out of the country; he wants to catch him. On that object he +is very intent; about as intent as the other fellow is of getting away. +I have seen two such beasts almost run over a dozen men who were making +no effort to keep out of sight. Long after honour is satisfied, indeed, +as it seems to me, long after the dictates of common decency would call +a halt that persistent and single-minded pursuer bounds solemnly and +conscientiously along in the wake of his disgusted rival. + +These and the zebra and wildebeeste were at Juja the most conspicuous +game animals. If they could not for the moment be seen from the veranda +of the house itself, a short walk to the gate was sufficient to reveal +many hundreds. Among them fed herds of the smaller Thompson's gazelle, +or “Tommies.” So small were they that only their heads could be seen +above the tall grass as they ran. + +To me there was never-ending fascination in walking out over those +sloppy plains in search of adventure, and in the pleasure of watching +the beasts. Scarcely less fascination haunted a stroll down the river +canyons or along the tops of the bluffs above them. Here the country was +broken into rocky escarpments in which were caves; was clothed with low +and scattered brush; or was wooded in the bottom lands. Naturally an +entirely different set of animals dwelt here; and in addition one was +often treated to the romance of surprise. Herds of impalla haunted these +edges; graceful creatures, trim and pretty with wide horns and beautiful +glowing red coats. Sometimes they would venture out on the open plains, +in a very compact band, ready to break back for cover at the slightest +alarm; but generally fed inside the fringe of bushes. Once from the +bluff above I saw a beautiful herd of over a hundred pacing decorously +along the river bottom below me, single file, the oldest buck at the +head, and the miscellaneous small buck bringing up the rear after the +does. I shouted at them. Immediately the solemn procession broke. They +began to leap, springing straight up into the air as though from a +released spring, or diving forward and upward in long graceful bounds +like dolphins at sea. These leaps were incredible. Several even jumped +quite over the backs of others; and all without a semblance of effort. + +Along the fringe of the river, too, dwelt the lordly waterbuck, +magnificent and proud as the stags of Landseer; and the tiny steinbuck +and duiker, no bigger than jack-rabbits, but perfect little deer for +all that. The incredibly plebeian wart-hog rooted about; and down in +the bottom lands were leopards. I knocked one off a rock one day. In +the river itself dwelt hippopotamuses and crocodiles. One of the latter +dragged under a yearling calf just below the house itself, and while +we were there. Besides these were of course such affairs as hyenas and +jackals, and great numbers of small game: hares, ducks, three kinds of +grouse, guinea fowl, pigeons, quail, and jack snipe, not to speak of a +variety of plover. + +In the drier extents of dry grass atop the bluffs the dance birds were +especially numerous; each with his dance ring nicely trodden out, each +leaping and falling rhythmically for hours at a time. Toward sunset +great flights of sand grouse swarmed across the yellowing sky from some +distant feeding ground. + +Near Juja I had one of the three experiences that especially impressed +on my mind the abundance of African big game. I had stalked and wounded +a wildebeeste across the N'derogo River, and had followed him a mile +or so afoot, hoping to be able to put in a finishing shot. As sometimes +happens the animal rather gained strength as time went on; so I +signalled for my horse, mounted, and started out to run him down. After +a quarter mile we began to pick up the game herds. Those directly in +our course ran straight away; other herds on either side, seeing them +running, came across in a slant to join them. Inside of a half mile I +was driving before me literally thousands of head of game of several +varieties. The dust rose in a choking cloud that fairly obscured the +landscape, and the drumming of the hooves was like the stampeding of +cattle. It was a wonderful sight. + +On the plains of Juja, also, I had my one real African Adventure, +when, as in the Sunday Supplements, I Stared Death in the Face-also +everlasting disgrace and much derision. We were just returning to the +farm after an afternoon's walk, and as we approached I began to look +around for much needed meat. A herd of zebra stood in sight; so leaving +Memba Sasa I began to stalk them. My usual weapon for this sort of thing +was the Springfield, for which I carried extra cartridges in my belt. On +this occasion, however, I traded with Memba Sasa for the 405, simply for +the purpose of trying it out. At a few paces over three hundred yards +I landed on the zebra, but did not knock him down. Then I set out to +follow. It was a long job and took me far, for again and again he joined +other zebra, when, of course, I could not tell one from t'other. My only +expedient was to frighten the lot. There upon the uninjured ones would +distance the one that was hurt. The latter kept his eye on me. Whenever +I managed to get within reasonable distance, I put up the rear sight of +the 405, and let drive. I heard every shot hit, and after each hit was +more than a little astonished to see the zebra still on his feet, and +still able to wobble on.* The fifth shot emptied the rifle. As I had no +more cartridges for this arm, I approached to within sixty yards, and +stopped to wait either for him to fall, or for a very distant Memba Sasa +to come up with more cartridges. Then the zebra waked up. He put his +ears back and came straight in my direction. This rush I took for a +blind death flurry, and so dodged off to one side, thinking that he +would of course go by me. Not at all! He swung around on the circle too, +and made after me. I could see that his ears were back, eyes blazing, +and his teeth snapping with rage. It was a malicious charge, and, as +such, with due deliberation, I offer it to sportsman's annals. As I had +no more cartridges I ran away as fast as I could go. Although I made +rather better time than ever I had attained to before, it was evident +that the zebra would catch me; and as the brute could paw, bite, and +kick, I did not much care for the situation. Just as he had nearly +reached me, and as I was trying to figure on what kind of a fight I +could put up with a clubbed rifle barrel, he fell dead. To be killed by +a lion is at least a dignified death; but to be mauled by a zebra! + +I am sorry I did not try out this heavy-calibred rifle oftener at long +range. It was a marvellously effective weapon at close quarters; but I +have an idea-but only a tentative idea-that above three hundred yards +its velocity is so reduced by air resistance against the big blunt +bullet as greatly to impair its hitting powers. + + +We generally got back from our walks or rides just before dark to find +the house gleaming with lights, a hot bath ready, and a tray of good +wet drinks next the easy chairs. There, after changing our clothes, we +sipped and read the papers-two months off the press, but fresh arrived +for all that-until a white-robed, dignified figure appeared in the +doorway to inform us that dinner was ready. Our ways were civilized and +soft, then, until the morrow when once again, perhaps, we went forth +into the African wilderness. + +Juja is a place of startling contrasts-of naked savages clipping formal +hedges, of windows opening from a perfectly appointed brilliantly +lighted dining-room to a night whence float the lost wails of hyenas or +the deep grumbling of lions, of cushioned luxurious chairs in reach +of many books, but looking out on hills where the game herds feed, +of comfortable beds with fine linen and soft blankets where one lies +listening to the voices of an African night, or the weirder minor house +noises whose origin and nature no man could guess, of tennis courts and +summer houses, of lawns and hammocks, of sundials and clipped hedges +separated only by a few strands of woven wire from fields identical with +those in which roamed the cave men of the Pleistocene. But to Billy was +reserved the most ridiculous contrast of all. Her bedroom opened to a +veranda a few feet above a formal garden. This was a very formal garden, +with a sundial, gravelled walks, bordered flower beds, and clipped +border hedges. One night she heard a noise outside. Slipping on a warm +wrap and seizing her trusty revolver she stole out on the veranda to +investigate. She looked over the veranda rail. There just below her, +trampling the flower beds, tracking the gravel walks, endangering the +sundial, stood a hippopotamus! + +We had neighbours six or seven miles away. At times they came down to +spend the night and luxuriate in the comforts of civilization. They were +a Lady A., and her nephew, and a young Scotch acquaintance the nephew +had taken into partnership. They had built themselves circular houses +of papyrus reeds with conical thatched roofs and earth floors, had +purchased ox teams and gathered a dozen or so Kikuyus, and were engaged +in breaking a farm in the wilderness. The life was rough and hard, and +Lady A. and her nephew gently bred, but they seemed to be having quite +cheerfully the time of their lives. The game furnished them meat, as it +did all of us, and they hoped in time that their labours would make the +land valuable and productive. Fascinating as was the life, it was also +one of many deprivations. At Juja were a number of old copies of Life, +the pretty girls in which so fascinated the young men that we broke the +laws of propriety by presenting them, though they did not belong to us. +C., the nephew, was of the finest type of young Englishman, clean +cut, enthusiastic, good looking, with an air of engaging vitality +and optimism. His partner, of his own age, was an insufferable youth. +Brought up in some small Scottish valley, his outlook had never +widened. Because he wanted to buy four oxen at a cheaper price, he tried +desperately to abrogate quarantine regulations. If he had succeeded, he +would have made a few rupees, but would have introduced disease in his +neighbours' herds. This consideration did not affect him. He was much +given to sneering at what he could not understand; and therefore, a +great deal met with his disapproval. His reading had evidently brought +him down only to about the middle sixties; and affairs at that date were +to him still burning questions. Thus he would declaim vehemently over +the Alabama claims. + +“I blush with shame,” he would cry, “when I think of England's attitude +in that matter.” + +We pointed out that the dispute had been amicably settled by the best +minds of the time, had passed between the covers of history, and had +given way in immediate importance to several later topics. + +“This vacillating policy,” he swept on, “annoys me. For my part, I +should like to see so firm a stand taken on all questions that in any +part of the world, whenever a man, and wherever a man, said 'I am an +Englishman? everybody else would draw back!'” + +He was an incredible person. However, I was glad to see him; he and a +few others of his kind have consoled me for a number of Americans I have +met abroad. Lady A., with the tolerant philosophy of her class, seemed +merely amused. I have often since wondered how this ill-assorted +partnership turned out. + +Two other neighbours of ours dropped in once or twice-twenty-six miles +on bicycles, on which they could ride only a portion of the distance. +They had some sort of a ranch up in the Ithanga Hills; and were two of +the nicest fellows one would want to meet, brimful of energy, game for +anything, and had so good a time always that the grumpiest fever could +not prevent every one else having a good time too. Once they rode +on their bicycles forty miles to Nairobi, danced half the night at +a Government House ball, rode back in the early morning, and did an +afternoon's plowing! They explained this feat by pointing out most +convincingly that the ground was just right for plowing, but they did +not want to miss the ball! + +Occasionally a trim and dapper police official would drift in on +horseback looking for native criminals; and once a safari came by. +Twelve miles away was the famous Kamiti Farm of Heatly, where Roosevelt +killed his buffalo; and once or twice Heatly himself, a fine chap, came +to see us. Also just before I left with Duirs for a lion hunt on Kapiti, +Lady Girouard, wife of the Governor, and her nephew and niece rode out +for a hunt. In the African fashion, all these people brought their own +personal servants. It makes entertaining easy. Nobody knows where all +these boys sleep; but they manage to tuck away somewhere, and always +show up after a mysterious system of their own whenever there is +anything to be done. + +We stayed at Juja a little over three weeks. Then most reluctantly said +farewell and returned to Nairobi in preparation for a long trip to the +south. + + + + +XXIX. CHAPTER THE LAST + +With our return from Juja to Nairobi for a breathing space, this volume +comes to a logical conclusion. In it I have tried to give a fairly +comprehensive impression-it could hardly be a picture of so large a +subject-of a portion of East Equatorial Africa, its animals, and its +people. Those who are sufficiently interested will have an opportunity +in a succeeding volume of wandering with us even farther afield. The +low jungly coast region; the fierce desert of the Serengetti; the swift +sullen rhinoceros-haunted stretches of the Tsavo; Nairobi, the strangest +mixture of the twentieth centuries A.D. and B.C.; Mombasa with its wild, +barbaric passionate ebb and flow of life, of colour, of throbbing sound, +the great lions of the Kapiti Plains, the Thirst of the Loieta, the +Masai spearmen, the long chase for the greater kudu; the wonderful, high +unknown country beyond the Narossara and other affairs will there be +detailed. If the reader of this volume happens to want more, there he +will find it. + + + + +APPENDIX I + +Most people are very much interested in how hot it gets in such tropics +as we traversed. Unfortunately it is very difficult to tell them. +Temperature tables have very little to do with the matter, for humidity +varies greatly. On the Serengetti at lower reaches of the Guaso Nyero +I have seen it above 110 degrees. It was hot, to be sure, but not +exhaustingly so. On the other hand, at 90 or 95 degrees the low coast +belt I have had the sweat run from me literally in streams; so that a +muddy spot formed wherever I stood still. In the highlands, moreover, +the nights were often extremely cold. I have recorded night temperatures +as low as 40 at 7000 feet of elevation; and noon temperatures as low 65. + +Of more importance than the actual or sensible temperature of the air +is the power of the sun's rays. At all times of year this is practically +constant; for the orb merely swings a few degrees north and south of +the equator, and the extreme difference in time between its risings or +settings is not more than twenty minutes. This power is also practically +constant whatever the temperature of the air and is dangerous even on a +cloudy day, when the heat waves are effectually screened off, but when +the actinic rays are as active as ever. For this reason the protection +of helmet and spine pad should never be omitted, no matter what the +condition of the weather, between nine o'clock and four. A very brief +exposure is likely to prove fatal. It should be added that some people +stand these actinic rays better than others. + +Such being the case, mere temperature tables could have little interest +to the general reader. I append a few statistics, selected from many, +and illustrative of the different conditions. + + + Locality. Elevation 6am noon 8pm Apparent conditions + Coast --- 80 90 76 Very hot and sticky + Isiola River 2900 65 94 84 Hot but not exhausting + Tans River 3350 68 98 79 Hot but not exhausting + Near Meru 5450 62 80 70 Very pleasant + Serengetti Plains 2200 78 106 86 Hot and humid + Narossara River 5450 54 89 69 Very pleasant + Narossara Mts. 7400 42 80 50 Chilly + Narossara Mts. 6450 40 62 52 Cold + + + + +APPENDIX II + +GAME ANIMALS COLLECTED + + Lion Bush pig Grant's gazelle + Serval cat Baboon Thompson's gazelle + Cheetah Colobus Gerenuk gazelle + Black-backed jackal Hippopotamus Coke's hartebeests + Silver jackal Rhinoceros Jackson's hartebeests + Striped hyena Crocodile Neuman's hartebeests + Spotted hyena Python Chandler's reedbuck + Fennec fox Ward's zebra Bohur reedbuck + Honey badger Grevy's zebra Beisa ox + Aardewolf Notata gazelle Fringe-eared oryx + Wart-hog Roberts' gazelle Duiker + Waterbuck Klipspringer Harvey's duiker + Sing-sing Dik-dik Greater kudu + Oribi (3 varieties) Wildebeeste Lesser kudu + Eland Roosevelt's wildebeests Sable antelope + Roan antelope Buffalo + Bushbuck Topi + + Total, fifty-four kinds + + +GAME BIRDS COLLECTED + + Marabout Gadwall Lesser bustard + Egret European stork Guinea fowl + Glossy ibis Quail Giant guinea fowl + Egyptian goose Sand grouse Green pigeon + White goose Francolin Blue pigeon + English snipe Spur fowl Dove (2 species) + Mallard duck Greater bustard + + Total, twenty-two kinds + + + + +APPENDIX III + +For the benefit of the sportsman and gun crank who want plain facts and +no flapdoodle, the following statistics are offered. To the lay reader +this inclusion will be incomprehensible; but I know my gun crank as I am +one myself! + +Army Springfield, model 1903 to take the 1906 cartridge, shooting the +Spitzer sharp point bullet. Stocked to suit me by Ludwig Wundhammer, +and fitted with Sheard gold bead front sight and Lyman aperture +receiver sight. With this I did most my shooting, as the trajectory was +remarkably good, and the killing power remarkable. Tried out both the +old-fashioned soft point bullets and the sharp Spitzer bullets, but find +the latter far the more effective. In fact the paralyzing shock given +by the Spitzer is almost beyond belief. African animals are notably +tenacious of life; but the Springfield dropped nearly half the animals +dead with one shot; a most unusual record, as every sportsman will +recognize. The bullets seemed on impact always to flatten slightly at +the base, the point remaining intact-to spin widely on the axis, and +to plunge off at an angle. This action of course depended on the high +velocity. The requisite velocity, however seemed to keep up within all +shooting ranges. A kongoni I killed at 638 paces (measured), and another +at 566 paces both exhibited this action of the bullet. I mention these +ranges because I have seen the statement in print that the remaining +velocity beyond 350 yards would not be sufficient in this arm to prevent +the bullet passing through cleanly. I should also hasten to add that I +do not habitually shoot at game at the above ranges; but did so in these +two instances for the precise purpose of testing the arm. Metal fouling +did not bother me at all, though I had been led to expect trouble from +it. The weapon was always cleaned with water so boiling hot that the +heat of the barrel dried it. When occasionally flakes of metal fouling +became visible a Marble brush always sufficed to remove enough of it. It +was my habit to smear the bullets with mobilubricant before placing +them in the magazine. This was not as much of a nuisance as it sounds. A +small tin box about the size of a pill box lasted me the whole trip; and +only once did I completely empty the magazine at one time. On my return +I tested the rifle very thoroughly for accuracy. In spite of careful +cleaning the barrel was in several places slightly corroded. For this +the climate was responsible. The few small pittings, however, did not +seem in any way to have affected the accuracy, as the rifle shot the +following groups: 3-1/2 inches at 200 yards; 7-1/4 inches at 300 yards; +and 11-1/2 inches at 500 yards.* + + * It shot one five-shot 1-2/3 inch group at 200 yds., and + several others at all distances less than the figures given, + but I am convinced these must have been largely accidental. + + +These groups were not made from a machine rest, however; as none was +available. The complete record with this arm for my whole stay in Africa +was 307 hits out of 395 cartridges fired, representing 185 head of game +killed. Most of this shooting was for meat and represented also all +sorts of “varmints” as well. + +The 405 Winchester. This weapon was sighted like the Springfield, and +was constantly in the field as my second gun. For lions it could not be +beaten; as it was very accurate, delivered a hard blow, and held +five cartridges. Beyond 125 to 150 yards one had to begin to guess at +distance, so for ordinary shooting I preferred the Springfield. In +thick brush country, however, where one was likely to come suddenly +on rhinoceroes, but where one wanted to be ready always for desirable +smaller game, the Winchester was just the thing. It was short, handy, +and reliable. One experience with a zebra 300-350 yards has made me +question whether at long (hunting) ranges the remaining velocity of the +big blunt nosed bullet is not seriously reduced; but as to that I have +not enough data for a final conclusion. I have no doubt, however, that +at such ranges, and beyond, the little Springfield has more shocking +power. Of course at closer ranges the Winchester is by far the more +powerful. I killed one rhinoceros with the 405, one buffalo and one +hippo; but should consider it too light for an emergency gun against +the larger dangerous animals, such as buffalo and rhinoceros. If one has +time for extreme accuracy, and can pick the shot, it is plenty big; but +I refer now to close quarters in a hurry. I had no trouble whatever with +the mechanism of this arm; nor have I ever had trouble with any of the +lever actions, although I have used them for many years. As regards +speed of fire the controversy between the lever and bolt action +advocates seems to me foolish in the extreme. Either action can be fired +faster than it should be fired in the presence of game. It is my belief +that any man, no matter how practised or how cool, can stampede himself +beyond his best accuracy by pumping out his shots too rapidly. This is +especially true in the face of charging dangerous game. So firmly do I +believe this that I generally take the rifle from my shoulder between +each shot. Even aimed rapid fire is of no great value as compared with +better aimed slower fire. The first bullet delivers to an animal's +nervous system about all the shock it can absorb. If the beast is not +thereby knocked down and held down, subsequent shots can accomplish that +desirable result only by reaching a vital spot or by tearing tissue. +As an example of this I might instance a waterbuck into which I saw +my companion empty five heavy 465 and double 500 bullets from cordite +rifles before it fell! Thus if the game gets to its feet after the first +shock, it is true that the hunter will often empty into it six or seven +more bullets without apparent result, unless he aims carefully for a +centrally vital point. It follows that therefore a second shot aimed +with enough care to land it in that point is worth a lot more than a +half dozen delivered in three or four seconds with only the accuracy +necessary to group decently at very short range, even if all of them +hit the beast. I am perfectly aware that this view will probably +be disputed; but it is the result of considerable experience, close +observation and real interest in the game. The whole record of the +Winchester was 56 hits out of 70 cartridges fired; representing 27 head +of game. + +The 465 Holland & Holland double cordite rifle. This beautiful weapon, +built and balanced like a fine hammerless shotgun, was fitted with open +sights. It was of course essentially a close range emergency gun, but +was capable of accurate work at a distance. I killed one buffalo dead +with it, across a wide canyon, with the 300-yard leaf up on the +back sight. Its game list however was limited to rhinoceroses, +hippopotamuses, buffaloes and crocodiles. The recoil in spite of its +weight of twelve and one half pounds, was tremendous; but unnoticeable +when I was shooting at any of these brutes. Its total record was 31 +cartridges fired with 29 hits representing 13 head of game. + +The conditions militating against marksmanship are often severe. Hard +work in the tropics is not the most steadying regime in the world, and +outside a man's nerves, he is often bothered by queer lights, and the +effects of the mirage that swirls from the sun-heated plain. The ranges, +too, are rather long. I took the trouble to pace out about every kill, +and find that antelope in the plains averaged 245 yards; with a maximum +of 638 yards, while antelope in covered country averaged 148 yards, with +a maximum of 311. + + + + +APPENDIX IV. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA + +IN WHICH HE APPEARS AS DIFFERENT FROM THE ENGLISHMAN + +It is always interesting to play the other fellow's game his way, and +then, in light of experience, to see wherein our way and his way modify +each other. + +The above proposition here refers to camping. We do considerable of it +in our country, especially in our North and West. After we have been +at it for some time, we evolve a method of our own. The basis of that +method is to do without; to GO LIGHT. At first even the best of us will +carry too much plunder, but ten years of philosophy and rainstorms, +trails and trials, will bring us to an irreducible minimum. A party of +three will get along with two pack horses, say; or, on a harder trip, +each will carry the necessities on his own back. To take just as little +as is consistent with comfort is to play the game skilfully. Any article +must pay in use for its transportation. + +With this ideal deeply ingrained by the test of experience, the American +camper is appalled by the caravan his British cousins consider necessary +for a trip into the African back country. His said cousin has, perhaps, +very kindly offered to have his outfit ready for him when he arrives. +He does arrive to find from one hundred to one hundred and fifty men +gathered as his personal attendants. + +“Great Scot!” he cries, “I want to go camping; I don't want to invade +anybody's territory. Why the army?” + +He discovers that these are porters, to carry his effects. + +“What effects?” he demands, bewildered. As far as he knows, he has +two guns, some ammunition, and a black tin box, bought in London, and +half-filled with extra clothes, a few medicines, a thermometer, and +some little personal knick-knacks. He has been wondering what else he +is going to put in to keep things from rattling about. Of course he +expected besides these to take along a little plain grub, and some +blankets, and a frying pan and kettle or so. + +The English friend has known several Americans, so he explains +patiently. + +“I know this seems foolish to you,” he says, “but you must remember you +are under the equator and you must do things differently here. As long +as you keep fit you are safe; but if you get run down a bit you'll go. +You've got to do yourself well, down here, rather better than you have +to in any other climate. You need all the comfort you can get; and you +want to save yourself all you can.” + +This has a reasonable sound and the American does not yet know the game. +Recovering from his first shock, he begins to look things over. There +is a double tent, folding camp chair, folding easy chair, folding table, +wash basin, bath tub, cot, mosquito curtains, clothes hangers; there are +oil lanterns, oil carriers, two loads of mysterious cooking utensils and +cook camp stuff; there is an open fly, which his friend explains is his +dining tent; and there are from a dozen to twenty boxes standing in a +row, each with its padlock. “I didn't go in for luxury,” apologizes the +English friend. “Of course we can easily add anything you want but I +remember you wrote me that you wanted to travel light.” + +“What are those?” our American inquires, pointing to the locked boxes. + +He learns that they are chop boxes, containing food and supplies. At +this he rises on his hind legs and paws the air. + +“Food!” he shrieks. “Why, man alive, I'm alone, and I am only going to +be out three months! I can carry all I'll ever eat in three months in +one of those boxes.” + +But the Englishman patiently explains. You cannot live on “bacon and +beans” in this country, so to speak. You must do yourself rather well, +you know, to keep in condition. And you cannot pack food in bags, +it must be tinned. And then, of course, such things as your sparklet +siphons and lime juice require careful packing-and your champagne. + +“Champagne,” breathes the American in awestricken tones. + +“Exactly, dear boy, an absolute necessity. After a touch of sun there's +nothing picks you up better than a mouthful of fizz. It's used as a +medicine, not a drink, you understand.” + +The American reflects again that this is the other fellow's game, and +that the other fellow has been playing it for some time, and that he +ought to know. But he cannot yet see why the one hundred and fifty men. +Again the Englishman explains. There is the Headman to run the show. +Correct: we need him. Then there are four askaris. What are they? Native +soldiers. No, you won't be fighting anything; but they keep the men +going, and act as sort of sub-foremen in bossing the complicated work. +Next is your cook, and your own valet and that of your horse. Also your +two gunbearers. + +“Hold on!” cries our friend. “I have only two guns, and I'm going to +carry one myself.” + +But this, he learns, is quite impossible. It is never done. It is +absolutely necessary, in this climate, to avoid all work. + +That makes how many? Ten already, and there seem to be three tent +loads, one bed load, one chair and table load, one lantern load, two +miscellaneous loads, two cook loads, one personal box, and fifteen chop +boxes-total twenty-six, plus the staff, as above, thirty-six. Why all +the rest of the army? + +Very simple: these thirty-six men have, according to regulation, seven +tents, and certain personal effects, and they must have “potio” or a +ration of one and a half pounds per diem. These things must be carried +by more men. + +“I see,” murmurs the American, crushed, “and these more men have more +tents and more potio, which must also be carried. It's like the House +that Jack Built.” + +So our American concludes still once again that the other fellow knows +his own game, and starts out. He learns he has what is called a “modest +safari”; and spares a fleeting wonder as to what a really elaborate +safari must be. The procession takes the field. He soon sees the value +of the four askaris-the necessity of whom he has secretly doubted. +Without their vigorous seconding the headman would have a hard time +indeed. Also, when he observes the labour of tent-making, packing, +washing, and general service performed by his tent boy, he abandons the +notion that that individual could just as well take care of the horse as +well, especially as the horse has to have all his grass cut and brought +to him. At evening our friend has a hot bath, a long cool fizzly drink +of lime juice and soda; he puts on the clean clothes laid out for him, +assumes soft mosquito boots, and sits down to dinner. This is served +to him in courses, and on enamel ware. Each course has its proper-sized +plate and cutlery. He starts with soup, goes down through tinned +whitebait or other fish, an entree, a roast, perhaps a curry, a sweet, +and small coffee. He is certainly being “done well,” and he enjoys the +comfort of it. + +There comes a time when he begins to wonder a little. It is all very +pleasant, of course, and perhaps very necessary; they all tell him it +is. But, after all, it is a little galling to the average man to think +that of him. Your Englishman doesn't mind that; he enjoys being taken +care of: but the sportsman of American training likes to stand on his +own feet as far as he is able and conditions permit. Besides, it is +expensive. Besides that, it is a confounded nuisance, especially when +potio gives out and more must be sought, near or far. Then, if he is +wise, he begins to do a little figuring on his own account. + +My experience was very much as above. Three of us went out for eleven +weeks with what was considered a very “modest” safari indeed. It +comprised one hundred and eighteen men. My fifth and last trip, also +with two companions, was for three months. Our personnel consisted, all +told, forty men. + +In essentials the Englishman is absolutely right. One cannot camp in +Africa as one would at home. The experimenter would be dead in a month. +In his application of that principle, however, he seems to the American +point of view to overshoot. Let us examine his proposition in terms of +the essentials-food, clothing, shelter. There is no doubt but that a man +must keep in top condition as far as possible; and that, to do so, he +must have plenty of good food. He can never do as we do on very hard +trips at home: take a little tea, sugar, coffee, flour, salt, oatmeal. +But on the other hand, he certainly does not need a five-course dinner +every night, nor a complete battery of cutlery, napery and table ware to +eat it from. Flour, sugar, oatmeal, tea and coffee, rice, beans, onions, +curry, dried fruits, a little bacon, and some dehydrated vegetables +will do him very well indeed-with what he can shoot. These will pack in +waterproof bags very comfortably. In addition to feeding himself well, +he finds he must not sleep next to the ground, he must have a hot bath +every day, but never a cold one, and he must shelter himself with a +double tent against the sun. + +Those are the absolute necessities of the climate. In other words, if +he carries a double tent, a cot, a folding bath; and gives a little +attention to a properly balanced food supply, he has met the situation. + +If, in addition, he takes canned goods, soda siphons, lime juice, easy +chairs and all the rest of the paraphernalia, he is merely using a basic +principle as an excuse to include sheer luxuries. In further extenuation +of this he is apt to argue that porters are cheap, and that it costs +but little more to carry these extra comforts. Against this argument, of +course, I have nothing to say. It is the inalienable right of every +man to carry all the luxuries he wants. My point is that the average +American sportsman does not want them, and only takes them because he is +overpersuaded that these things are not luxuries, but necessities. For, +mark you, he could take the same things into the Sierras or the North-by +paying; but he doesn't. + +I repeat, it is the inalienable right of any man to travel as +luxuriously as he pleases. But by the same token it is not his right to +pretend that luxuries are necessities. That is to put himself into the +same category with the man who always finds some other excuse for taking +a drink than the simple one that he wants it. + +The Englishman's point of view is that he objects to “pigging it,” as +he says. “Pigging it” means changing your home habits in any way. If you +have been accustomed to eating your sardines after a meal, and somebody +offers them to you first, that is “pigging it.” In other words, as +nearly as I can make out, “pigging it” does not so much mean doing +things in an inadequate fashion as DOING THEM DIFFERENTLY. Therefore, +the Englishman in the field likes to approximate as closely as may be +his life in town, even if it takes one hundred and fifty men to do it. +Which reduces the “pigging it” argument to an attempt at condemnation by +calling names. + +The American temperament, on the contrary, being more experimental +and independent, prefers to build anew upon its essentials. Where the +Englishman covers the situation blanket-wise with his old institutions, +the American prefers to construct new institutions on the necessities of +the case. He objects strongly to being taken care of too completely. He +objects strongly to losing the keen enjoyment of overcoming difficulties +and enduring hardships. The Englishman by habit and training has no such +objections. He likes to be taken care of, financially, personally, and +everlastingly. That is his ideal of life. If he can be taken care of +better by employing three hundred porters and packing eight tin trunks +of personal effects-as I have seen it done-he will so employ and take. +That is all right: he likes it. + +But the American does not like it. A good deal of the fun for him is in +going light, in matching himself against his environment. It is no +fun to him to carry his complete little civilization along with him, +laboriously. If he must have cotton wool, let it be as little cotton +wool as possible. He likes to be comfortable; but he likes to be +comfortable with the minimum of means. Striking just the proper balance +somehow adds to his interest in the game. And how he DOES object to +that ever-recurring thought-that he is such a helpless mollusc that it +requires a small regiment to get him safely around the country! + +Both means are perfectly legitimate, of course; and neither view is +open to criticism. All either man is justified in saying is that he, +personally, wouldn't get much fun out of doing it the other way. As a +matter of fact, human nature generally goes beyond its justifications +and is prone to criticise. The Englishman waxes a trifle caustic on the +subject of “pigging it”; and the American indulges in more than a bit +of sarcasm on the subject of “being led about Africa like a dog on a +string.” + +By some such roundabout mental process as the above the American comes +to the conclusion that he need not necessarily adopt the other fellow's +method of playing this game. His own method needs modification, but it +will do. He ventures to leave out the tables and easy chair, takes a +camp stool and eats off a chop box. To the best of his belief his health +does not suffer from this. He gets on with a camper's allowance of +plate, cup and cutlery, and so cuts out a load and a half of assorted +kitchen utensils and table ware. He even does without a tablecloth and +napkins! He discards the lime juice and siphons, and purchases a +canvas evaporation bag to cool the water. He fires one gunbearer, and +undertakes the formidable physical feat of carrying one of his rifles +himself. And, above all, he modifies that grub list. The purchase of +waterproof bags gets rid of a lot of tin: the staple groceries do quite +as well as London fancy stuff. Golden syrup takes the place of all the +miscellaneous jams, marmalades and other sweets. The canned goods go +by the board. He lays in a stock of dried fruit. At the end, he is +possessed of a grub list but little different from that of his Rocky +Mountain trips. Some few items he has cut down; and some he has +substituted; but bulk and weight are the same. For his three months' +trip he has four or five chop boxes all told. + +And then suddenly he finds that thus he has made a reduction all along +the line. Tent load, two men; grub and kitchen, five men; personal, one +man; bed, one man; miscellaneous, one or two. There is now no need for +headmen and askaris to handle this little lot. Twenty more to carry food +for the men-he is off with a quarter of the number of his first “modest +safari.” + +You who are sportsmen and are not going to Africa, as is the case with +most, will perhaps read this, because we are always interested in how +the other fellow does it. To the few who are intending an exploration +of the dark continent this concentration of a year's experience may be +valuable. Remember to sleep off the ground, not to starve yourself, +to protect yourself from the sun, to let negroes do all hard work +but marching and hunting. Do these things your own way, using your +common-sense on how to get at it. You'll be all right. + +That, I conceive, covers the case. The remainder of your equipment has +to do with camp affairs, and merely needs listing. The question here is +not of the sort to get, but of what to take. The tents, cooking affairs, +etc., are well adapted to the country. In selecting your tent, however, +you will do very well to pick out one whose veranda fly reaches fairly +to the ground, instead of stopping halfway. + + 1 tent and ground sheet + 1 folding cot and cork mattress, + 1 pillow, 3 single blankets + 1 combined folding bath and ashstand (“X” brand) + 1 camp stool + 3 folding candle lanterns + 1 gallon turpentine + 3 lbs. alum + 1 river rope + Sail needles and twine + 3 pangas (native tools for chopping and digging) + Cook outfit (select these yourself, and cut out the extras) + 2 axes (small) + Plenty laundry soap + Evaporation bag + 2 pails + 10 yards cotton cloth (“Mericani”) + +These things, your food, your porters' outfits and what trade goods you +may need are quite sufficient. You will have all you want, and not too +much. If you take care of yourself, you ought to keep in good health. +Your small outfit permits greater mobility than does that of the English +cousin, infinitely less nuisance and expense. Furthermore, you feel that +once more you are “next to things,” instead of “being led about Africa +like a dog on a string.” + + + + +APPENDIX V. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA + +WHAT HE SHOULD TAKE + +Before going to Africa I read as many books as I could get hold of on +the subject, some of them by Americans. In every case the authors have +given a chapter detailing the necessary outfit. Invariably they have +followed the Englishman's ideas almost absolutely. Nobody has ventured +to modify those ideas in any essential manner. Some have deprecatingly +ventured to remark that it is as well to leave out the tinned carfare-if +you do not like carfare; but that is as far as they care to go. The +lists are those of the firms who make a business of equipping caravans. +The heads of such firms are generally old African travellers. They +furnish the equipment their customers demand; and as English sportsmen +generally all demand the same thing, the firms end by issuing a printed +list of essentials for shooting parties in Africa, including carfare. +Travellers follow the lists blindly, and later copy them verbatim into +their books. Not one has thought to empty out the whole bag of tricks, +to examine them in the light of reason, and to pick out what a man of +American habits, as contrasted to one of English habits, would like to +have. This cannot be done a priori; it requires the test of experience +to determine how to meet, in our own way, the unusual demands of climate +and conditions. + +And please note, when the heads of these equipment firms, these old +African travellers, take the field for themselves, they pay no attention +whatever to their own printed lists of “essentials.” + +Now, premising that the English sportsman has, by many years' +experience, worked out just what he likes to take into the field; and +assuring you solemnly that his ideas are not in the least the ideas of +American sportsman, let us see if we cannot do something for ourselves. + +At present the American has either to take over in toto the English +idea, which is not adapted to him, and is-TO HIM-a nuisance, or to go it +blind, without experience except that acquired in a temperate climate, +which is dangerous. I am not going to copy out the English list again, +even for comparison. I have not the space; and if curious enough, you +can find it in any book on modern African travel. Of course I realize +well that few Americans go to Africa; but I also realize well that +the sportsman is a crank, a wild and eager enthusiast over items of +equipment anywhere. He-and I am thinking emphatically of him-would +avidly devour the details of the proper outfit for the gentle art of +hunting the totally extinct whiffenpoof. + +Let us begin, first of all, with: + +Personal Equipment Clothes. On the top of your head you must have a sun +helmet. Get it of cork, not of pith. The latter has a habit of melting +unobtrusively about your ears when it rains. A helmet in brush is the +next noisiest thing to a circus band, so it is always well to have, +also, a double terai. This is not something to eat. It is a wide +felt hat, and then another wide felt hat on top of that. The +vertical-rays-of-the-tropical-sun (pronounced as one word to save time +after you have heard and said it a thousand times) are supposed to get +tangled and lost somewhere between the two hats. It is not, however, a +good contraption to go in all day when the sun is strong. + +As underwear you want the lightest Jaeger wool. Doesn't sound well for +tropics, but it is an essential. You will sweat enough anyway, even if +you get down to a brass wire costume like the natives. It is when you +stop in the shade, or the breeze, or the dusk of evening, that the +trouble comes. A chill means trouble, SURE. Two extra suits are all you +want. There is no earthly sense in bringing more. Your tent boy washes +them out whenever he can lay hands on them-it is one of his harmless +manias. + +Your shirt should be of the thinnest brown flannel. Leather the +shoulders, and part way down the upper arm, with chamois. This is to +protect your precious garment against the thorns when you dive through +them. On the back you have buttons sewed wherewith to attach a spine +pad. Before I went to Africa I searched eagerly for information or +illustration of a spine pad. I guessed what it must be for, and to an +extent what it must be like, but all writers maintained a conservative +reticence as to the thing itself. Here is the first authorized +description. A spine pad is a quilted affair in consistency like the +things you are supposed to lift hot flat-irons with. On the outside it +is brown flannel, like the shirt; on the inside it is a gaudy orange +colour. The latter is not for aesthetic effect, but to intercept actinic +rays. It is eight or ten inches wide, is shaped to button close up under +your collar, and extends halfway down your back. In addition it is well +to wear a silk handkerchief around the neck; as the spine and back of +the head seem to be the most vulnerable to the sun. + +For breeches, suit yourself as to material. It will have to be very +tough, and of fast colour. The best cut is the “semi-riding,” loose +at the knees, which should be well faced with soft leather, both for +crawling, and to save the cloth in grass and low brush. One pair ought +to last four months, roughly speaking. You will find a thin pair of +ordinary khaki trousers very comfortable as a change for wear about +camp. In passing I would call your attention to “shorts.” Shorts are +loose, bobbed off khaki breeches, like knee drawers. With them are worn +puttees or leather leggings, and low boots. The knees are bare. They are +much affected by young Englishmen. I observed them carefully at every +opportunity, and my private opinion is that man has rarely managed to +invent as idiotically unfitted a contraption for the purpose in hand. +In a country teeming with poisonous insects, ticks, fever-bearing +mosquitoes; in a country where vegetation is unusually well armed with +thorns, spines and hooks, mostly poisonous; in a country where, oftener +than in any other a man is called upon to get down on his hands and +knees and crawl a few assorted abrading miles, it would seem an obvious +necessity to protect one's bare skin as much as possible. The only +reason given for these astonishing garments is that they are cooler and +freer to walk in. That I can believe. But they allow ticks and other +insects to crawl up, mosquitoes to bite, thorns to tear, and assorted +troubles to enter. And I can vouch by experience that ordinary breeches +are not uncomfortably hot or tight. Indeed, one does not get especially +hot in the legs anyway. I noticed that none of the old-time hunters like +Cuninghame or Judd wore shorts. The real reason is not that they are +cool, but that they are picturesque. Common belief to the contrary, your +average practical, matter-of-fact Englishman loves to dress up. I knew +one engaged in farming-picturesque farming-in our own West, who used +to appear at afternoon tea in a clean suit of blue overalls! It is a +harmless amusement. Our own youths do it, also, substituting chaps for +shorts, perhaps. I am not criticising the spirit in them; but merely +trying to keep mistaken shorts off you. + +For leg gear I found that nothing could beat our American combination of +high-laced boots and heavy knit socks. Leather leggings are noisy, and +the rolled puttees hot and binding. Have your boots ten or twelve inches +high, with a flap to buckle over the tie of the laces, with soles of the +mercury-impregnated leather called “elk hide,” and with small Hungarian +hobs. Your tent boy will grease these every day with “dubbin,” of +which you want a good supply. It is not my intention to offer free +advertisements generally, but I wore one pair of boots all the time I +was in Africa, through wet, heat, and long, long walking. They were +in good condition when I gave them away finally, and had not started a +stitch. They were made by that excellent craftsman, A. A. Cutter, of +Eau Claire, Wis., and he deserves and is entirely welcome to this puff. +Needless to remark, I have received no especial favours from Mr. Cutter. + +Six pairs of woollen socks, knit by hand, if possible-will be enough. +For evening, when you come in, I know nothing better than a pair of very +high moosehide moccasins. They should, however, be provided with thin +soles against the stray thorn, and should reach well above the ankle by +way of defence against the fever mosquito. That festive insect carries +on a surreptitious guerrilla warfare low down. The English “mosquito +boot” is simply an affair like a riding boot, made of suede leather, +with thin soles. It is most comfortable. My objection is that it +is unsubstantial and goes to pieces in a very brief time even under +ordinary evening wear about camp. + +You will also want a coat. In American camping I have always maintained +the coat is a useless garment. There one does his own work to a large +extent. When at work or travel the coat is in the way. When in camp +the sweater or buckskin shirt is handier, and more easily carried. In +Africa, however, where the other fellow does most of the work, a coat +is often very handy. Do not make the mistake of getting an unlined +light-weight garment. When you want it at all, you want it warm and +substantial. Stick on all the pockets possible, and have them button +securely. + +For wet weather there is nothing to equal a long and voluminous cape. +Straps crossing the chest and around the waist permit one to throw it +off the shoulders to shoot. It covers the hands, the rifle-most of the +little horses or mules one gets out there. One can sleep in or on it, +and it is a most effective garment against heavy winds. One suit of +pajamas is enough, considering your tent boy's commendable mania for +laundry work. Add handkerchiefs and you are fixed. + +You will wear most of the above, and put what remains in your “officer's +box.” This is a thin steel, air-tight affair with a wooden bottom, and +is the ticket for African work. + +Sporting. Pick out your guns to suit yourself. You want a light one and +a heavy one. + +When I came to send out my ammunition, I was forced again to take the +other fellow's experience. I was told by everybody that I should bring +plenty, that it was better to have too much than too little, etc. I +rather thought so myself, and accordingly shipped a trifle over 1,500 +rounds of small bore cartridges. Unfortunately, I never got into the +field with any of my numerous advisers on this point, so cannot state +their methods from first-hand information. Inductive reasoning leads me +to believe that they consider it unsportsmanlike to shoot at a standing +animal at all, or at one running nearer than 250 yards. Furthermore, it +is etiquette to continue firing until the last cloud of dust has died +down on the distant horizon. Only thus can I conceive of getting rid +of that amount of ammunition. In eight months of steady shooting, +for example-shooting for trophies, as well as to feed a safari of +fluctuating numbers, counting jackals, marabout and such small trash-I +got away with 395 rounds of small bore ammunition and about 100 of +large. This accounted for 225 kills. That should give one an idea. +Figure out how many animals you are likely to want for ANY purpose, +multiply by three, and bring that many cartridges. + +To carry these cartridges I should adopt the English system of a stout +leather belt on which you slip various sized pockets and loops to suit +the occasion. Each unit has loops for ten cartridges. You rarely want +more than that; and if you do, your gunbearer is supplied. In addition +to the loops, you have leather pockets to carry your watch; your money, +your matches and tobacco, your compass-anything you please. They +are handy and safe. The tropical climate is too “sticky” to get much +comfort, or anything else, out of ordinary pockets. + +In addition, you supply your gunbearer with a cartridge belt, a leather +or canvas carrying bag, water bottle for him and for yourself, a sheath +knife and a whetstone. In the bag are your camera, tape line, the +whetstone, field cleaners and lunch. You personally carry your field +glasses, sun glasses, a knife, compass, matches, police whistle and +notebook. The field glasses should not be more than six power; and if +possible you should get the sort with detachable prisms. The prisms +are apt to cloud in a tropical climate, and the non-detachable sort are +almost impossible for a layman to clean. Hang these glasses around your +neck by a strap only just long enough to permit you to raise them to +your eyes. The best notebook is the “loose-leaf” sort. By means of this +you can keep always a fresh leaf on top; and at night can transfer your +day's notes to safe keeping in your tin box. The sun glasses should not +be smoked or dark-you can do nothing with them-but of the new amberol, +the sort that excludes the ultra-violet rays, but otherwise makes the +world brighter and gayer. Spectacle frames of non-corrosive white metal, +not steel, are the proper sort. + +To clean your guns you must supply plenty of oil, and then some more. +The East African gunbearer has a quite proper and gratifying, but most +astonishing horror for a suspicion of rust; and to use oil any faster he +would have to drink it. + +Other Equipment. All this has taken much time to tell about, it has not +done much toward filling up that tin box. Dump in your toilet effects +and a bath towel, two or three scalpels for taxidermy, a ball of string, +some safety-pins, a small tool kit, sewing materials, a flask of brandy, +kodak films packed in tin, a boxed thermometer, an aneroid (if you are +curious as to elevations), journal, tags for labelling trophies, a few +yards of gun cloth, and the medicine kit. + +The latter divides into two classes: for your men and for yourself. +The men will suffer from certain well defined troubles: “tumbo,” + or overeating; diarrhaea, bronchial colds, fever and various small +injuries. For “tumbo” you want a liberal supply of Epsom's salts; for +diarrhaea you need chlorodyne; any good expectorant for the colds; +quinine for the fever; permanganate and plenty of bandages for the +injuries. With this lot you can do wonders. For yourself you need, +or may need, in addition, a more elaborate lot: Laxative, quinine, +phenacetin, bismuth and soda, bromide of ammonium, morphia, camphor-ice, +and aspirin. A clinical thermometer for whites and one for blacks should +be included. A tin of malted milk is not a bad thing to take as an +emergency ration after fever. + +By this time your tin box is fairly well provided. You may turn to +general supplies. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Land of Footprints, by Stewart Edward White + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF FOOTPRINTS *** + +***** This file should be named 1378-0.txt or 1378-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/7/1378/ + +Produced by Aaron Cannon + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/1378-0.zip b/old/1378-0.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..17890b9 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/1378-0.zip diff --git a/old/1378-h.zip b/old/1378-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..686b8db --- /dev/null +++ b/old/1378-h.zip diff --git a/old/1378-h/1378-h.htm b/old/1378-h/1378-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2262b01 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/1378-h/1378-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,10908 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + The Land of Footprints, by Stewart Edward White + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +Project Gutenberg's The Land of Footprints, by Stewart Edward White + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Land of Footprints + +Author: Stewart Edward White + +Release Date: August 20, 2008 [EBook #1378] +Last Updated: March 12, 2018 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF FOOTPRINTS *** + + + + +Produced by Aaron Cannon, and David Widger + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h1> + THE LAND OF FOOTPRINTS + </h1> + <h2> + by Stewart Edward White + </h2> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h3> + 1913 + </h3> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> I. ON BOOKS OF ADVENTURE </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> II. AFRICA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> III. THE CENTRAL PLATEAU </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> IV. THE FIRST CAMP </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> V. MEMBA SASA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> VI. THE FIRST GAME CAMP </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0007"> VII. ON THE MARCH </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> VIII. THE RIVER JUNGLE </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0009"> IX. THE FIRST LION </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0010"> X. LIONS </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0011"> XI. LIONS AGAIN </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0012"> XII. MORE LIONS </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0013"> XIII. ON THE MANAGING OF A SAFARI </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0014"> XIV. A DAY ON THE ISIOLA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0015"> XV. THE LION DANCE </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0016"> XVI. FUNDI </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0017"> XVII. NATIVES </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0018"> XVIII. IN THE JUNGLE </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0019"> XIX. THE TANA RIVER </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0020"> XX. DIVERS ADVENTURES ALONG THE TANA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0022"> XXI. THE RHINOCEROS </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0023"> XXII. THE RHINOCEROS-(continued) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0024"> XXIII. THE HIPPO POOL </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0025"> XXIV. BUFFALO </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0026"> XXV. THE BUFFALO-continued </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0027"> XXVI. JUJA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0028"> XXVII. A VISIT AT JUJA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0029"> XXVIII. A RESIDENCE AT JUJA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0030"> XXIX. CHAPTER THE LAST </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE"> APPENDIX I </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE2"> APPENDIX II </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE3"> APPENDIX III </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE4"> APPENDIX IV. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE5"> APPENDIX V. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA </a> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + I. ON BOOKS OF ADVENTURE + </h2> + <p> + Books of sporting, travel, and adventure in countries little known to the + average reader naturally fall in two classes-neither, with a very few + exceptions, of great value. One class is perhaps the logical result of the + other. + </p> + <p> + Of the first type is the book that is written to make the most of far + travels, to extract from adventure the last thrill, to impress the + awestricken reader with a full sense of the danger and hardship the writer + has undergone. Thus, if the latter takes out quite an ordinary routine + permit to go into certain districts, he makes the most of travelling in + “closed territory,” implying that he has obtained an especial privilege, + and has penetrated where few have gone before him. As a matter of fact, + the permit is issued merely that the authorities may keep track of who is + where. Anybody can get one. This class of writer tells of shooting beasts + at customary ranges of four and five hundred yards. I remember one in + especial who airily and as a matter of fact killed all his antelope at + such ranges. Most men have shot occasional beasts at a quarter mile or so, + but not airily nor as a matter of fact: rather with thanksgiving and a + certain amount of surprise. The gentleman of whom I speak mentioned + getting an eland at seven hundred and fifty yards. By chance I happened to + mention this to a native Africander. + </p> + <p> + “Yes,” said he, “I remember that; I was there.” + </p> + <p> + This interested me-and I said so. + </p> + <p> + “He made a long shot,” said I. + </p> + <p> + “A GOOD long shot,” replied the Africander. + </p> + <p> + “Did you pace the distance?” + </p> + <p> + He laughed. “No,” said he, “the old chap was immensely delighted. 'Eight + hundred yards if it was an inch!' he cried.” + </p> + <p> + “How far was it?” + </p> + <p> + “About three hundred and fifty. But it was a long shot, all right.” + </p> + <p> + And it was! Three hundred and fifty yards is a very long shot. It is over + four city blocks-New York size. But if you talk often enough and glibly + enough of “four and five hundred yards,” it does not sound like much, does + it? + </p> + <p> + The same class of writer always gets all the thrills. He speaks of + “blanched cheeks,” of the “thrilling suspense,” and so on down the gamut + of the shilling shocker. His stuff makes good reading; there is no doubt + of that. The spellbound public likes it, and to that extent it has + fulfilled its mission. Also, the reader believes it to the letter-why + should he not? Only there is this curious result: he carries away in his + mind the impression of unreality, of a country impossible to be understood + and gauged and savoured by the ordinary human mental equipment. It is + interesting, just as are historical novels, or the copper-riveted heroes + of modern fiction, but it has no real relation with human life. In the + last analysis the inherent untruth of the thing forces itself on him. He + believes, but he does not apprehend; he acknowledges the fact, but he + cannot grasp its human quality. The affair is interesting, but it is more + or less concocted of pasteboard for his amusement. Thus essential truth + asserts its right. + </p> + <p> + All this, you must understand, is probably not a deliberate attempt to + deceive. It is merely the recrudescence under the stimulus of a brand-new + environment of the boyish desire to be a hero. When a man jumps back into + the Pleistocene he digs up some of his ancestors' cave-qualities. Among + these is the desire for personal adornment. His modern development of + taste precludes skewers in the ears and polished wire around the neck; so + he adorns himself in qualities instead. It is quite an engaging and + diverting trait of character. The attitude of mind it both presupposes and + helps to bring about is too complicated for my brief analysis. In itself + it is no more blameworthy than the small boy's pretence at Indians in the + back yard; and no more praiseworthy than infantile decoration with + feathers. + </p> + <p> + In its results, however, we are more concerned. Probably each of us has + his mental picture that passes as a symbol rather than an idea of the + different continents. This is usually a single picture-a deep river, with + forest, hanging snaky vines, anacondas and monkeys for the east coast of + South America, for example. It is built up in youth by chance reading and + chance pictures, and does as well as a pink place on the map to stand for + a part of the world concerning which we know nothing at all. As time goes + on we extend, expand, and modify this picture in the light of what + knowledge we may acquire. So the reading of many books modifies and + expands our first crude notions of Equatorial Africa. And the result is, + if we read enough of the sort I describe above, we build the idea of an + exciting, dangerous, extra-human continent, visited by half-real people of + the texture of the historical-fiction hero, who have strange and + interesting adventures which we could not possibly imagine happening to + ourselves. + </p> + <p> + This type of book is directly responsible for the second sort. The author + of this is deadly afraid of being thought to brag of his adventures. He + feels constantly on him the amusedly critical eye of the old-timer. When + he comes to describe the first time a rhino dashed in his direction, he + remembers that old hunters, who have been so charged hundreds of times, + may read the book. Suddenly, in that light, the adventure becomes + pitifully unimportant. He sets down the fact that “we met a rhino that + turned a bit nasty, but after a shot in the shoulder decided to leave us + alone.” Throughout he keeps before his mind's eye the imaginary audience + of those who have done. He writes for them, to please them, to convince + them that he is not “swelled head,” nor “cocky,” nor “fancies himself,” + nor thinks he has done, been, or seen anything wonderful. It is a good, + healthy frame of mind to be in; but it, no more than the other type, can + produce books that leave on the minds of the general public any impression + of a country in relation to a real human being. + </p> + <p> + As a matter of fact, the same trouble is at the bottom of both failures. + The adventure writer, half unconsciously perhaps, has been too much + occupied play-acting himself into half-forgotten boyhood heroics. The more + modest man, with even more self-consciousness, has been thinking of how he + is going to appear in the eyes of the expert. Both have thought of + themselves before their work. This aspect of the matter would probably + vastly astonish the modest writer. + </p> + <p> + If, then, one is to formulate an ideal toward which to write, he might + express it exactly in terms of man and environment. Those readers desiring + sheer exploration can get it in any library: those in search of sheer + romantic adventure can purchase plenty of it at any book-stall. But the + majority want something different from either of these. They want, first + of all, to know what the country is like-not in vague and grandiose “word + paintings,” nor in strange and foreign sounding words and phrases, but in + comparison with something they know. What is it nearest like-Arizona? + Surrey? Upper New York? Canada? Mexico? Or is it totally different from + anything, as is the Grand Canyon? When you look out from your camp-any one + camp-how far do you see, and what do you see?-mountains in the distance, + or a screen of vines or bamboo near hand, or what? When you get up in the + morning, what is the first thing to do? What does a rhino look like, where + he lives, and what did you do the first time one came at you? I don't want + you to tell me as though I were either an old hunter or an admiring + audience, or as though you were afraid somebody might think you were + making too much of the matter. I want to know how you REALLY felt. Were + you scared or nervous? or did you become cool? Tell me frankly just how it + was, so I can see the thing as happening to a common everyday human being. + Then, even at second-hand and at ten thousand miles distance, I can enjoy + it actually, humanly, even though vicariously, speculating a bit over my + pipe as to how I would have liked it myself. + </p> + <p> + Obviously, to write such a book the author must at the same time sink his + ego and exhibit frankly his personality. The paradox in this is only + apparent. He must forget either to strut or to blush with diffidence. + Neither audience should be forgotten, and neither should be exclusively + addressed. Never should he lose sight of the wholesome fact that old + hunters are to read and to weigh; never should he for a moment slip into + the belief that he is justified in addressing the expert alone. His + attitude should be that many men know more and have done more than he, but + that for one reason or another these men are not ready to transmit their + knowledge and experience. + </p> + <p> + To set down the formulation of an ideal is one thing: to fulfil it is + another. In the following pages I cannot claim a fulfilment, but only an + attempt. The foregoing dissertation must be considered not as a promise, + but as an explanation. No one knows better than I how limited my African + experience is, both in time and extent, bounded as it is by East + Equatorial Africa and a year. Hundreds of men are better qualified than + myself to write just this book; but unfortunately they will not do it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + II. AFRICA + </h2> + <p> + In looking back on the multitudinous pictures that the word Africa bids + rise in my memory, four stand out more distinctly than the others. + Strangely enough, these are by no means all pictures of average + country-the sort of thing one would describe as typical. Perhaps, in a + way, they symbolize more the spirit of the country to me, for certainly + they represent but a small minority of its infinitely varied aspects. But + since we must make a start somewhere, and since for some reason these four + crowd most insistently in the recollection it might be well to begin with + them. + </p> + <p> + Our camp was pitched under a single large mimosa tree near the edge of a + deep and narrow ravine down which a stream flowed. A semicircle of low + mountains hemmed us in at the distance of several miles. The other side of + the semicircle was occupied by the upthrow of a low rise blocking off an + horizon at its nearest point but a few hundred yards away. Trees marked + the course of the stream; low scattered bushes alternated with open plain. + The grass grew high. We had to cut it out to make camp. + </p> + <p> + Nothing indicated that we were otherwise situated than in a very pleasant, + rather wide grass valley in the embrace of the mountains. Only a walk of a + few hundred yards atop the upthrow of the low rise revealed the fact that + it was in reality the lip of a bench, and that beyond it the country fell + away in sheer cliffs whose ultimate drop was some fifteen hundred feet. + One could sit atop and dangle his feet over unguessed abysses. + </p> + <p> + For a week we had been hunting for greater kudu. Each day Memba Sasa and I + went in one direction, while Mavrouki and Kongoni took another line. We + looked carefully for signs, but found none fresher than the month before. + Plenty of other game made the country interesting; but we were after a shy + and valuable prize, so dared not shoot lesser things. At last, at the end + of the week, Mavrouki came in with a tale of eight lions seen in the low + scrub across the stream. The kudu business was about finished, as far as + this place went, so we decided to take a look for the lions. + </p> + <p> + We ate by lantern and at the first light were ready to start. But at that + moment, across the slope of the rim a few hundred yards away, appeared a + small group of sing-sing. These are a beautiful big beast, with widespread + horns, proud and wonderful, like Landseer's stags, and I wanted one of + them very much. So I took the Springfield, and dropped behind the line of + some bushes. The stalk was of the ordinary sort. One has to remain behind + cover, to keep down wind, to make no quick movements. Sometimes this takes + considerable manoeuvring; especially, as now, in the case of a small band + fairly well scattered out for feeding. Often after one has succeeded in + placing them all safely behind the scattered cover, a straggler will step + out into view. Then the hunter must stop short, must slowly, oh very, very + slowly, sink down out of sight; so slowly, in fact, that he must not seem + to move, but rather to melt imperceptibly away. Then he must take up his + progress at a lower plane of elevation. Perhaps he needs merely to stoop; + or he may crawl on hands and knees; or he may lie flat and hitch himself + forward by his toes, pushing his gun ahead. If one of the beasts suddenly + looks very intently in his direction, he must freeze into no matter what + uncomfortable position, and so remain an indefinite time. Even a + hotel-bred child to whom you have rashly made advances stares no longer + nor more intently than a buck that cannot make you out. + </p> + <p> + I had no great difficulty with this lot, but slipped up quite successfully + to within one hundred and fifty yards. There I raised my head behind a + little bush to look. Three does grazed nearest me, their coats rough + against the chill of early morning. Up the slope were two more does and + two funny, fuzzy babies. An immature buck occupied the extreme left with + three young ladies. But the big buck, the leader, the boss of the lot, I + could not see anywhere. Of course he must be about, and I craned my neck + cautiously here and there trying to make him out. + </p> + <p> + Suddenly, with one accord, all turned and began to trot rapidly away to + the right, their heads high. In the strange manner of animals, they had + received telepathic alarm, and had instantly obeyed. Then beyond and far + to the right I at last saw the beast I had been looking for. The old + villain had been watching me all the time! + </p> + <p> + The little herd in single file made their way rapidly along the face of + the rise. They were headed in the direction of the stream. Now, I happened + to know that at this point the stream-canyon was bordered by sheer cliffs. + Therefore, the sing-sing must round the hill, and not cross the stream. By + running to the top of the hill I might catch a glimpse of them somewhere + below. So I started on a jog trot, trying to hit the golden mean of speed + that would still leave me breath to shoot. This was an affair of some + nicety in the tall grass. Just before I reached the actual slope, however, + I revised my schedule. The reason was supplied by a rhino that came + grunting to his feet about seventy yards away. He had not seen me, and he + had not smelled me, but the general disturbance of all these events had + broken into his early morning nap. He looked to me like a person who is + cross before breakfast, so I ducked low and ran around him. The last I saw + of him he was still standing there, quite disgruntled, and evidently + intending to write to the directors about it. + </p> + <p> + Arriving at the top, I looked eagerly down. The cliff fell away at an + impossible angle, but sheer below ran out a narrow bench fifty yards wide. + Around the point of the hill to my right-where the herd had gone-a game + trail dropped steeply to this bench. I arrived just in time to see the + sing-sing, still trotting, file across the bench and over its edge, on + some other invisible game trail, to continue their descent of the cliff. + The big buck brought up the rear. At the very edge he came to a halt, and + looked back, throwing his head up and his nose out so that the heavy fur + on his neck stood forward like a ruff. It was a last glimpse of him, so I + held my little best, and pulled trigger. + </p> + <p> + This happened to be one of those shots I spoke of-which the perpetrator + accepts with a thankful and humble spirit. The sing-sing leaped high in + the air and plunged over the edge of the bench. I signalled the camp-in + plain sight-to come and get the head and meat, and sat down to wait. And + while waiting, I looked out on a scene that has since been to me one of my + four symbolizations of Africa. + </p> + <p> + The morning was dull, with gray clouds through which at wide intervals + streamed broad bands of misty light. Below me the cliff fell away clear to + a gorge in the depths of which flowed a river. Then the land began to + rise, broken, sharp, tumbled, terrible, tier after tier, gorge after + gorge, one twisted range after the other, across a breathlessly + immeasurable distance. The prospect was full of shadows thrown by the + tumult of lava. In those shadows one imagined stranger abysses. Far down + to the right a long narrow lake inaugurated a flatter, alkali-whitened + country of low cliffs in long straight lines. Across the distances proper + to a dozen horizons the tumbled chaos heaved and fell. The eye sought rest + at the bounds usual to its accustomed world-and went on. There was no + roundness to the earth, no grateful curve to drop this great fierce + country beyond a healing horizon out of sight. The immensity of primal + space was in it, and the simplicity of primal things-rough, unfinished, + full of mystery. There was no colour. The scene was done in slate gray, + darkening to the opaque where a tiny distant rain squall started; + lightening in the nearer shadows to reveal half-guessed peaks; brightening + unexpectedly into broad short bands of misty gray light slanting from the + gray heavens above to the sombre tortured immensity beneath. It was such a + thing as Gustave Dore might have imaged to serve as an abiding place for + the fierce chaotic spirit of the African wilderness. + </p> + <p> + I sat there for some time hugging my knees, waiting for the men to come. + The tremendous landscape seemed to have been willed to immobility. The + rain squalls forty miles or more away did not appear to shift their + shadows; the rare slanting bands of light from the clouds were as constant + as though they were falling through cathedral windows. But nearer at hand + other things were forward. The birds, thousands of them, were doing their + best to cheer things up. The roucoulements of doves rose from the bushes + down the face of the cliffs; the bell bird uttered his clear ringing note; + the chime bird gave his celebrated imitation of a really gentlemanly + sixty-horse power touring car hinting you out of the way with the + mellowness of a chimed horn; the bottle bird poured gallons of guggling + essence of happiness from his silver jug. From the direction of camp, + evidently jumped by the boys, a steinbuck loped gracefully, pausing every + few minutes to look back, his dainty legs tense, his sensitive ears + pointed toward the direction of disturbance. + </p> + <p> + And now, along the face of the cliff, I make out the flashing of much + movement, half glimpsed through the bushes. Soon a fine old-man baboon, + his tail arched after the dandified fashion of the baboon aristocracy + stepped out, looked around, and bounded forward. Other old men followed + him, and then the young men, and a miscellaneous lot of half-grown + youngsters. The ladies brought up the rear, with the babies. These rode + their mothers' backs, clinging desperately while they leaped along, for + all the world like the pathetic monkey “jockeys” one sees strapped to the + backs of big dogs in circuses. When they had approached to within fifty + yards, remarked “hullo!” to them. Instantly they all stopped. Those in + front stood up on their hind legs; those behind clambered to points of + vantage on rocks and the tops of small bushes: They all took a good long + look at me. Then they told me what they thought about me personally, the + fact of my being there, and the rude way I had startled them. Their + remarks were neither complimentary nor refined. The old men, in especial, + got quite profane, and screamed excited billingsgate. Finally they all + stopped at once, dropped on all fours, and loped away, their ridiculous + long tails curved in a half arc. Then for the first time I noticed that, + under cover of the insults, the women and children had silently retired. + Once more I was left to the familiar gentle bird calls, and the vast + silence of the wilderness beyond. + </p> + <p> + The second picture, also, was a view from a height, but of a totally + different character. It was also, perhaps, more typical of a greater part + of East Equatorial Africa. Four of us were hunting lions with natives-both + wild and tame-and a scratch pack of dogs. More of that later. We had + rummaged around all the morning without any results; and now at noon had + climbed to the top of a butte to eat lunch and look abroad. + </p> + <p> + Our butte ran up a gentle but accelerating slope to a peak of big rounded + rocks and slabs sticking out boldly from the soil of the hill. We made + ourselves comfortable each after his fashion. The gunbearers leaned + against rocks and rolled cigarettes. The savages squatted on their heels, + planting their spears ceremonially in front of them. One of my friends lay + on his back, resting a huge telescope over his crossed feet. With this he + purposed seeing any lion that moved within ten miles. None of the rest of + us could ever make out anything through the fearsome weapon. Therefore, + relieved from responsibility by the presence of this Dreadnaught of a + 'scope, we loafed and looked about us. This is what we saw: + </p> + <p> + Mountains at our backs, of course-at some distance; then plains in long + low swells like the easy rise and fall of a tropical sea, wave after wave, + and over the edge of the world beyond a distant horizon. Here and there on + this plain, single hills lay becalmed, like ships at sea; some peaked, + some cliffed like buttes, some long and low like the hulls of battleships. + The brown plain flowed up to wash their bases, liquid as the sea itself, + its tides rising in the coves of the hills, and ebbing in the valleys + between. Near at hand, in the middle distance, far away, these fleets of + the plain sailed, until at last hull-down over the horizon their topmasts + disappeared. Above them sailed too the phantom fleet of the clouds, shot + with light, shining like silver, airy as racing yachts, yet casting here + and there exaggerated shadows below. + </p> + <p> + The sky in Africa is always very wide, greater than any other skies. + Between horizon and horizon is more space than any other world contains. + It is as though the cup of heaven had been pressed a little flatter; so + that while the boundaries have widened, the zenith, with its flaming sun, + has come nearer. And yet that is not a constant quantity either. I have + seen one edge of the sky raised straight up a few million miles, as though + some one had stuck poles under its corners, so that the western heaven did + not curve cup-wise over to the horizon at all as it did everywhere else, + but rather formed the proscenium of a gigantic stage. On this stage they + had piled great heaps of saffron yellow clouds, and struck shafts of + yellow light, and filled the spaces with the lurid portent of a + storm-while the twenty thousand foot mountains below, crouched whipped and + insignificant to the earth. + </p> + <p> + We sat atop our butte for an hour while H. looked through his 'scope. + After the soft silent immensity of the earth, running away to infinity, + with its low waves, and its scattered fleet of hills, it was with + difficulty that we brought our gaze back to details and to things near at + hand. Directly below us we could make out many different-hued specks. + Looking closely, we could see that those specks were game animals. They + fed here and there in bands of from ten to two hundred, with valleys and + hills between. Within the radius of the eye they moved, nowhere crowded in + big herds, but everywhere present. A band of zebras grazed the side of one + of the earth waves, a group of gazelles walked on the skyline, a herd of + kongoni rested in the hollow between. On the next rise was a similar + grouping; across the valley a new variation. As far as the eye could + strain its powers it could make out more and ever more beasts. I took up + my field glasses, and brought them all to within a sixth of the distance. + After amusing myself for some time in watching them, I swept the glasses + farther on. Still the same animals grazing on the hills and in the + hollows. I continued to look, and to look again, until even the powerful + prismatic glasses failed to show things big enough to distinguish. At the + limit of extreme vision I could still make out game, and yet more game. + And as I took my glasses from my eyes, and realized how small a portion of + this great land-sea I had been able to examine; as I looked away to the + ship-hills hull-down over the horizon, and realized that over all that + extent fed the Game; the ever-new wonder of Africa for the hundredth time + filled my mind-the teeming fecundity of her bosom. + </p> + <p> + “Look here,” said H. without removing his eye from the 'scope, “just + beyond the edge of that shadow to the left of the bushes in the donga-I've + been watching them ten minutes, and I can't make 'em out yet. They're + either hyenas acting mighty queer, or else two lionesses.” + </p> + <p> + We snatched our glasses and concentrated on that important detail. + </p> + <p> + To catch the third experience you must have journeyed with us across the + “Thirst,” as the natives picturesquely name the waterless tract of two + days and a half. Our very start had been delayed by a breakage of some + Dutch-sounding essential to our ox wagon, caused by the confusion of a + night attack by lions: almost every night we had lain awake as long as we + could to enjoy the deep-breathed grumbling or the vibrating roars of these + beasts. Now at last, having pushed through the dry country to the river in + the great plain, we were able to take breath from our mad hurry, and to + give our attention to affairs beyond the limits of mere expediency. One of + these was getting Billy a shot at a lion. + </p> + <p> + Billy had never before wanted to shoot anything except a python. Why a + python we could not quite fathom. Personally, I think she had some vague + idea of getting even for that Garden of Eden affair. But lately, pythons + proving scarcer than in that favoured locality, she had switched to a + lion. She wanted, she said, to give the skin to her sister. In vain we + pointed out that a zebra hide was very decorative, that lions go to absurd + lengths in retaining possession of their own skins, and other equally + convincing facts. It must be a lion or nothing; so naturally we had to + make a try. + </p> + <p> + There are several ways of getting lions, only one of which is at all + likely to afford a steady pot shot to a very small person trying to + manipulate an over-size gun. That is to lay out a kill. The idea is to + catch the lion at it in the early morning before he has departed for home. + The best kill is a zebra: first, because lions like zebra; second, because + zebra are fairly large; third, because zebra are very numerous. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly, after we had pitched camp just within a fringe of mimosa + trees and of red-flowering aloes near the river; had eaten lunch, smoked a + pipe and issued necessary orders to the men, C. and I set about the + serious work of getting an appropriate bait in an appropriate place. + </p> + <p> + The plains stretched straight away from the river bank to some indefinite + and unknown distance to the south. A low range of mountains lay blue to + the left; and a mantle of scrub thornbush closed the view to the right. + This did not imply that we could see far straight ahead, for the surface + of the plain rose slowly to the top of a swell about two miles away. + Beyond it reared a single butte peak at four or five times that distance. + </p> + <p> + We stepped from the fringe of red aloes and squinted through the dancing + heat shimmer. Near the limit of vision showed a very faint glimmering + whitish streak. A newcomer to Africa would not have looked at it twice: + nevertheless, it could be nothing but zebra. These gaudily marked beasts + take queer aspects even on an open plain. Most often they show pure white; + sometimes a jet black; only when within a few hundred yards does one + distinguish the stripes. Almost always they are very easily made out. Only + when very distant and in heat shimmer, or in certain half lights of + evening, does their so-called “protective colouration” seem to be in + working order, and even then they are always quite visible to the least + expert hunter's scrutiny. + </p> + <p> + It is not difficult to kill a zebra, though sometimes it has to be done at + a fairly long range. If all you want is meat for the porters, the matter + is simple enough. But when you require bait for a lion, that; is another + affair entirely. In the first place, you must be able to stalk within a + hundred yards of your kill without being seen; in the second place, you + must provide two or three good lying-down places for your prospective + trophy within fifteen yards of the carcass-and no more than two or three; + in the third place, you must judge the direction of the probable morning + wind, and must be able to approach from leeward. It is evidently pretty + good luck to find an accommodating zebra in just such a spot. It is a + matter of still greater nicety to drop him absolutely in his tracks. In a + case of porters' meat it does not make any particular difference if he + runs a hundred yards before he dies. With lion bait even fifty yards makes + all the difference in the world. + </p> + <p> + C. and I talked it over and resolved to press Scallywattamus into service. + Scallywattamus is a small white mule who is firmly convinced that each and + every bush in Africa conceals a mule-eating rhinoceros, and who does not + intend to be one of the number so eaten. But we had noticed that at times + zebra would be so struck with the strange sight of Scallywattamus carrying + a man, that they would let us get quite close. C. was to ride + Scallywattamus while I trudged along under his lee ready to shoot. + </p> + <p> + We set out through the heat shimmer, gradually rising as the plain + slanted. Imperceptibly the camp and the trees marking the river's course + fell below us and into the heat haze. In the distance, close to the + stream, we made out a blurred, brown-red solid mass which we knew for + Masai cattle. Various little Thompson's gazelles skipped away to the left + waggling their tails vigorously and continuously as Nature long since + commanded “Tommies” to do. The heat haze steadied around the dim white + line, so we could make out the individual animals. There were plenty of + them, dozing in the sun. A single tiny treelet broke the plain just at the + skyline of the rise. C. and I talked low-voiced as we went along. We + agreed that the tree was an excellent landmark to come to, that the little + rise afforded proper cover, and that in the morning the wind would in all + likelihood blow toward the river. There were perhaps twenty zebra near + enough to the chosen spot. Any of them would do. + </p> + <p> + But the zebra did not give a hoot for Scallywattamus. At five hundred + yards three or four of them awoke with a start, stared at us a minute, and + moved slowly away. They told all the zebra they happened upon that the + three idiots approaching were at once uninteresting and dangerous. At four + hundred and fifty yards a half dozen more made off at a trot. At three + hundred and fifty yards the rest plunged away at a canter-all but one. He + remained to stare, but his tail was up, and we knew he only stayed because + he knew he could easily catch up in the next twenty seconds. + </p> + <p> + The chance was very slim of delivering a knockout at that distance, but we + badly needed meat, anyway, after our march through the Thirst, so I tried + him. We heard the well-known plunk of the bullet, but down went his head, + up went his heels, and away went he. We watched him in vast disgust. He + cavorted out into a bare open space without cover of any sort, and then + flopped over. I thought I caught a fleeting grin of delight on Mavrouki's + face; but he knew enough instantly to conceal his satisfaction over sure + meat. + </p> + <p> + There were now no zebra anywhere near; but since nobody ever thinks of + omitting any chances in Africa, I sneaked up to the tree and took a + perfunctory look. There stood another, providentially absent-minded, + zebra! + </p> + <p> + We got that one. Everybody was now happy. The boys raced over to the first + kill, which soon took its dismembered way toward camp. C. and I carefully + organized our plan of campaign. We fixed in our memories the exact + location of each and every bush; we determined compass direction from + camp, and any other bearings likely to prove useful in finding so small a + spot in the dark. Then we left a boy to keep carrion birds off until + sunset; and returned home. + </p> + <p> + We were out in the morning before even the first sign of dawn. Billy rode + her little mule, C. and I went afoot, Memba Sasa accompanied us because he + could see whole lions where even C.'s trained eye could not make out an + ear, and the syce went along to take care of the mule. The heavens were + ablaze with the thronging stars of the tropics, so we found we could make + out the skyline of the distant butte over the rise of the plains. The + earth itself was a pool of absolute blackness. We could not see where we + were placing our feet, and we were continually bringing up suddenly to + walk around an unexpected aloe or thornbush. The night was quite still, + but every once in a while from the blackness came rustlings, scamperings, + low calls, and once or twice the startled barking of zebra very near at + hand. The latter sounded as ridiculous as ever. It is one of the many + incongruities of African life that Nature should have given so large and + so impressive a creature the petulant yapping of an exasperated Pomeranian + lap dog. At the end of three quarters of an hour of more or less stumbling + progress, we made out against the sky the twisted treelet that served as + our landmark. Billy dismounted, turned the mule over to the syce, and we + crept slowly forward until within a guessed two or three hundred yards of + our kill. + </p> + <p> + Nothing remained now but to wait for the daylight. It had already begun to + show. Over behind the distant mountains some one was kindling the fires, + and the stars were flickering out. The splendid ferocity of the African + sunrise was at hand. Long bands of slate dark clouds lay close along the + horizon, and behind them glowed a heart of fire, as on a small scale the + lamplight glows through a metal-worked shade. On either side the sky was + pale green-blue, translucent and pure, deep as infinity itself. The earth + was still black, and the top of the rise near at hand was clear edged. On + that edge, and by a strange chance accurately in the centre of + illumination, stood the uncouth massive form of a shaggy wildebeeste, his + head raised, staring to the east. He did not move; nothing of that fire + and black world moved; only instant by instant it changed, swelling in + glory toward some climax until one expected at any moment a fanfare of + trumpets, the burst of triumphant culmination. + </p> + <p> + Then very far down in the distance a lion roared. The wildebeeste, without + moving, bellowed back an answer or a defiance. Down in the hollow an + ostrich boomed. Zebra barked, and several birds chirped strongly. The + tension was breaking not in the expected fanfare and burst of triumphal + music, but in a manner instantly felt to be more fitting to what was + indeed a wonder, but a daily wonder for all that. At one and the same + instant the rim of the sun appeared and the wildebeeste, after the sudden + habit of his kind, made up his mind to go. He dropped his head and came + thundering down past us at full speed. Straight to the west he headed, and + so disappeared. We could hear the beat of his hoofs dying into the + distance. He had gone like a Warder of the Morning whose task was + finished. On the knife-edged skyline appeared the silhouette of + slim-legged little Tommies, flirting their rails, sniffing at the dewy + grass, dainty, slender, confiding, the open-day antithesis of the + tremendous and awesome lord of the darkness that had roared its way to its + lair, and to the massive shaggy herald of morning that had thundered down + to the west. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + III. THE CENTRAL PLATEAU + </h2> + <p> + Now is required a special quality of the imagination, not in myself, but + in my readers, for it becomes necessary for them to grasp the logic of a + whole country in one mental effort. The difficulties to me are very real. + If I am to tell you it all in detail, your mind becomes confused to the + point of mingling the ingredients of the description. The resultant mental + picture is a composite; it mixes localities wide apart; it comes out, like + the snake-creeper-swamp-forest thing of grammar-school South America, an + unreal and deceitful impression. If, on the other hand, I try to give you + a bird's-eye view-saying, here is plain, and there follows upland, and + yonder succeed mountains and hills-you lose the sense of breadth and space + and the toil of many days. The feeling of onward outward extending + distance is gone; and that impression so indispensable to finite + understanding-“here am I, and what is beyond is to be measured by the + length of my legs and the toil of my days.” You will not stop long enough + on my plains to realize their physical extent nor their influence on the + human soul. If I mention them in a sentence, you dismiss them in a + thought. And that is something the plains themselves refuse to permit you + to do. Yet sometimes one must become a guide-book, and bespeak his + reader's imagination. + </p> + <p> + The country, then, wherein we travelled begins at the sea. Along the coast + stretches a low rolling country of steaming tropics, grown with cocoanuts, + bananas, mangoes, and populated by a happy, half-naked race of the + Swahilis. Leaving the coast, the country rises through hills. These hills + are at first fertile and green and wooded. Later they turn into an almost + unbroken plateau of thorn scrub, cruel, monotonous, almost impenetrable. + Fix thorn scrub in your mind, with rhino trails, and occasional openings + for game, and a few rivers flowing through palms and narrow jungle strips; + fix it in your mind until your mind is filled with it, until you are + convinced that nothing else can exist in the world but more and more of + the monotonous, terrible, dry, onstretching desert of thorn. + </p> + <p> + Then pass through this to the top of the hills inland, and journey over + these hills to the highland plains. + </p> + <p> + Now sense and appreciate these wide seas of and the hills and ranges of + mountains rising from them, and their infinite diversity of country-their + rivers marked by ribbons of jungle, their scattered-bush and their + thick-bush areas, their grass expanses, and their great distances + extending far over exceedingly wide horizons. Realize how many weary hours + you must travel to gain the nearest butte, what days of toil the view from + its top will disclose. Savour the fact that you can spend months in its + veriest corner without exhausting its possibilities. Then, and not until + then, raise your eyes to the low rising transverse range that bands it to + the west as the thorn desert bands it to the east. + </p> + <p> + And on these ranges are the forests, the great bewildering forests. In + what looks like a grove lying athwart a little hill you can lose yourself + for days. Here dwell millions of savages in an apparently untouched + wilderness. Here rises a snow mountain on the equator. Here are tangles + and labyrinths, great bamboo forests lost in folds of the mightiest hills. + Here are the elephants. Here are the swinging vines, the jungle itself. + </p> + <p> + Yet finally it breaks. We come out on the edge of things and look down on + a great gash in the earth. It is like a sunken kingdom in itself, miles + wide, with its own mountain ranges, its own rivers, its own landscape + features. Only on either side of it rise the escarpments which are the + true level of the plateau. One can spend two months in this valley, too, + and in the countries south to which it leads. And on its farther side are + the high plateau plains again, or the forests, or the desert, or the great + lakes that lie at the source of the Nile. + </p> + <p> + So now, perhaps, we are a little prepared to go ahead. The guide-book work + is finished for good and all. There is the steaming hot low coast belt, + and the hot dry thorn desert belt, and the varied immense plains, and the + high mountain belt of the forests, and again the variegated wide country + of the Rift Valley and the high plateau. To attempt to tell you seriatim + and in detail just what they are like is the task of an encyclopaedist. + Perhaps more indirectly you may be able to fill in the picture of the + country, the people, and the beasts. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + IV. THE FIRST CAMP + </h2> + <p> + Our very first start into the new country was made when we piled out from + the little train standing patiently awaiting the good pleasure of our + descent. That feature strikes me with ever new wonder-the accommodating + way trains of the Uganda Railway have of waiting for you. One day, at a + little wayside station, C. and I were idly exchanging remarks with the + only white man in sight, killing time until the engine should whistle to a + resumption of the journey. The guard lingered about just out of earshot. + At the end of five minutes C. happened to catch his eye, whereupon he + ventured to approach. + </p> + <p> + “When you have finished your conversation,” said he politely, “we are all + ready to go on.” + </p> + <p> + On the morning in question there were a lot of us to disembark-one hundred + and twenty-two, to be exact-of which four were white. We were not yet + acquainted with our men, nor yet with our stores, nor with the methods of + our travel. The train went off and left us in the middle of a high + plateau, with low ridges running across it, and mountains in the distance. + Men were squabbling earnestly for the most convenient loads to carry, and + as fast as they had gained undisputed possession, they marked the loads + with some private sign of their own. M'ganga, the headman, tall, fierce, + big-framed and bony, clad in fez, a long black overcoat, blue puttees and + boots, stood stiff as a ramrod, extended a rigid right arm and rattled off + orders in a high dynamic voice. In his left hand he clasped a bulgy + umbrella, the badge of his dignity and the symbol of his authority. The + four askaris, big men too, with masterful high-cheekboned countenances, + rushed here and there seeing that the orders were carried out. + Expostulations, laughter, the sound of quarrelling rose and fell. Never + could the combined volume of it all override the firecracker stream of + M'ganga's eloquence. + </p> + <p> + We had nothing to do with it all, but stood a little dazed, staring at the + novel scene. Our men were of many tribes, each with its own cast of + features, its own notions of what befitted man's performance of his duties + here below. They stuck together each in its clan. A fine free + individualism of personal adornment characterized them. Every man dressed + for his own satisfaction solely. They hung all sorts of things in the + distended lobes of their ears. One had succeeded in inserting a fine big + glittering tobacco tin. Others had invented elaborate topiary designs in + their hair, shaving their heads so as to leave strange tufts, patches, + crescents on the most unexpected places. Of the intricacy of these designs + they seemed absurdly proud. Various sorts of treasure trove hung from + them-a bunch of keys to which there were no locks, discarded hunting + knives, tips of antelope horns, discharged brass cartridges, a hundred and + one valueless trifles plucked proudly from the rubbish heap. They were all + clothed. We had supplied each with a red blanket, a blue jersey, and a + water bottle. The blankets they were twisting most ingeniously into + turbans. Beside these they sported a great variety of garments. Shooting + coats that had seen better days, a dozen shabby overcoats-worn proudly + through the hottest noons-raggety breeches and trousers made by some + London tailor, queer baggy homemades of the same persuasion, or quite + simply the square of cotton cloth arranged somewhat like a short tight + skirt, or nothing at all as the man's taste ran. They were many of them + amusing enough; but somehow they did not look entirely farcical and + ridiculous, like our negroes putting on airs. All these things were worn + with a simplicity of quiet confidence in their entire fitness. And beneath + the red blanket turbans the half-wild savage faces peered out. + </p> + <p> + Now Mahomet approached. Mahomet was my personal boy. He was a Somali from + the Northwest coast, dusky brown, with the regular clear-cut features of a + Greek marble god. His dress was of neat khaki, and he looked down on + savages; but, also, as with all the dark-skinned races, up to his white + master. Mahomet was with me during all my African stay, and tested out + nobly. As yet, of course, I did not know him. + </p> + <p> + “Chakula taiari,” said he. + </p> + <p> + That is Swahili. It means literally “food is ready.” After one has hunted + in Africa for a few months, it means also “paradise is opened,” “grief is + at an end,” “joy and thanksgiving are now in order,” and similar affairs. + Those two words are never forgotten, and the veriest beginner in Swahili + can recognize them without the slightest effort. + </p> + <p> + We followed Mahomet. Somehow, without orders, in all this confusion, the + personal staff had been quietly and efficiently busy. Drawn a little to + one side stood a table with four chairs. The table was covered with a + white cloth, and was set with a beautiful white enamel service. We took + our places. Behind each chair straight as a ramrod stood a neat khaki-clad + boy. They brought us food, and presented it properly on the left side, + waiting like well-trained butlers. We might have been in a London + restaurant. As three of us were Americans, we felt a trifle dazed. The + porters, having finished the distribution of their loads, squatted on + their heels and watched us respectfully. + </p> + <p> + And then, not two hundred yards away, four ostriches paced slowly across + the track, paying not the slightest attention to us-our first real wild + ostriches, scornful of oranges, careless of tourists, and rightful + guardians of their own snowy plumes. The passage of these four solemn + birds seemed somehow to lend this strange open-air meal an exotic flavour. + We were indeed in Africa; and the ostriches helped us to realize it. + </p> + <p> + We finished breakfast and arose from our chairs. Instantly a half dozen + men sprang forward. Before our amazed eyes the table service, the chairs + and the table itself disappeared into neat packages. M'ganga arose to his + feet. + </p> + <p> + “Bandika!” he cried. + </p> + <p> + The askaris rushed here and there actively. + </p> + <p> + “Bandika! bandika! bandika!” they cried repeatedly. + </p> + <p> + The men sprang into activity. A struggle heaved the varicoloured + multitude-and, lo! each man stood upright, his load balanced on his head. + At the same moment the syces led up our horses, mounted and headed across + the little plain whence had come the four ostriches. Our African journey + had definitely begun. + </p> + <p> + Behind us, all abreast marched the four gunbearers; then the four syces; + then the safari single file, an askari at the head bearing proudly his + ancient musket and our banner, other askaris flanking, M'ganga bringing up + the rear with his mighty umbrella and an unsuspected rhinoceros-hide whip. + The tent boys and the cook scattered along the flank anywhere, as befitted + the free and independent who had nothing to do with the serious business + of marching. A measured sound of drumming followed the beating of loads + with a hundred sticks; a wild, weird chanting burst from the ranks and + died down again as one or another individual or group felt moved to song. + One lot had a formal chant and response. Their leader, in a high falsetto, + said something like, + </p> + <p> + “Kuna koma kuno,” + </p> + <p> + and all his tribesmen would follow with a single word in a deep gruff + tone, + </p> + <p> + “Za-la-nee!” + </p> + <p> + All of which undoubtedly helped immensely. + </p> + <p> + The country was a bully country, but somehow it did not look like Africa. + That is to say, it looked altogether too much like any amount of country + at home. There was nothing strange and exotic about it. We crossed a + little plain, and up over a small hill, down into a shallow canyon that + seemed to be wooded with live oaks, across a grass valley or so, and + around a grass hill. Then we went into camp at the edge of another grass + valley, by a stream across which rose some ordinary low cliffs. + </p> + <p> + That is the disconcerting thing about a whole lot of this country-it is so + much like home. Of course, there are many wide districts exotic enough in + all conscience-the jungle beds of the rivers, the bamboo forests, the + great tangled forests themselves, the banana groves down the aisles of + which dance savages with shields-but so very much of it is familiar. One + needs only church spires and a red-roofed village or so to imagine one's + self in Surrey. There is any amount of country like Arizona, and more like + the uplands of Wyoming, and a lot of it resembling the smaller landscapes + of New England. The prospects of the whole world are there, so that + somewhere every wanderer can find the countryside of his own home + repeated. And, by the same token, that is exactly what makes a good deal + of it so startling. When a man sees a file of spear-armed savages, or a + pair of snorty old rhinos, step out into what has seemed practically his + own back yard home, he is even more startled than if he had encountered + them in quite strange surroundings. + </p> + <p> + We rode into the grass meadow and picked camp site. The men trailed in and + dumped down their loads in a row. + </p> + <p> + At a signal they set to work. A dozen to each tent got them up in a jiffy. + A long file brought firewood from the stream bed. Others carried water, + stones for the cook, a dozen other matters. The tent boys rescued our + boxes; they put together the cots and made the beds, even before the tents + were raised from the ground. Within an incredibly short space of time the + three green tents were up and arranged, each with its bed made, its + mosquito bar hung, its personal box open, its folding washstand ready with + towels and soap, the table and chairs unlimbered. At a discreet distance + flickered the cook campfire, and at a still discreeter distance the little + tents of the men gleamed pure white against the green of the high grass. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + V. MEMBA SASA + </h2> + <p> + I wish I could plunge you at once into the excitements of big game in + Africa, but I cannot truthfully do so. To be sure, we went hunting that + afternoon, up over the low cliffs, and we saw several of a very lively + little animal known as the Chandler's reedbuck. This was not supposed to + be a game country, and that was all we did see. At these we shot several + times-disgracefully. In fact, for several days we could not shoot at all, + at any range, nor at anything. It was very sad, and very aggravating. + Afterward we found that this is an invariable experience to the newcomer. + The light is new, the air is different, the sizes of the game are + deceiving. Nobody can at first hit anything. At the end of five days we + suddenly began to shoot our normal gait. Why, I do not know. + </p> + <p> + But in this afternoon tramp around the low cliffs after the elusive + reedbuck, I for the first time became acquainted with a man who developed + into a real friend. + </p> + <p> + His name is Memba Sasa. Memba Sasa are two Swahili words meaning “now a + crocodile.” Subsequently, after I had learned to talk Swahili, I tried to + find out what he was formerly, before he was a crocodile, but did not + succeed. + </p> + <p> + He was of the tribe of the Monumwezi, of medium height, compactly and + sturdily built, carried himself very erect, and moved with a concentrated + and vigorous purposefulness. His countenance might be described as + pleasing but not handsome, of a dark chocolate brown, with the broad nose + of the negro, but with a firm mouth, high cheekbones, and a frowning + intentness of brow that was very fine. When you talked to him he looked + you straight in the eye. His own eyes were shaded by long, soft, curling + lashes behind which they looked steadily and gravely-sometimes fiercely-on + the world. He rarely smiled-never merely in understanding or for + politeness' sake-and never laughed unless there was something really + amusing. Then he chuckled from deep in his chest, the most contagious + laughter you can imagine. Often we, at the other end of the camp, have + laughed in sympathy, just at the sound of that deep and hearty ho! ho! ho! + of Memba Sasa. Even at something genuinely amusing he never laughed much, + nor without a very definite restraint. In fact, about him was no + slackness, no sprawling abandon of the native in relaxation; but always a + taut efficiency and a never-failing self-respect. + </p> + <p> + Naturally, behind such a fixed moral fibre must always be some moral idea. + When a man lives up to a real, not a pompous, dignity some ideal must + inform it. Memba Sasa's ideal was that of the Hunter. + </p> + <p> + He was a gunbearer; and he considered that a good gunbearer stood quite a + few notches above any other human being, save always the white man, of + course. And even among the latter Memba Sasa made great differences. These + differences he kept to himself, and treated all with equal respect. + Nevertheless, they existed, and Memba Sasa very well knew that fact. In + the white world were two classes of masters: those who hunted well, and + those who were considered by them as their friends and equals. Why they + should be so considered Memba Sasa did not know, but he trusted the + Hunter's judgment. These were the bwanas, or masters. All the rest were + merely mazungos, or, “white men.” To their faces he called them bwana, but + in his heart he considered them not. + </p> + <p> + Observe, I say those who hunted well. Memba Sasa, in his profession as + gunbearer, had to accompany those who hunted badly. In them he took no + pride; from them he held aloof in spirit; but for them he did his + conscientious best, upheld by the dignity of his profession. + </p> + <p> + For to Mamba Sasa that profession was the proudest to which a black man + could aspire. He prided himself on mastering its every detail, in + accomplishing its every duty minutely and exactly. The major virtues of a + gunbearer are not to be despised by anybody; for they comprise great + physical courage, endurance, and loyalty: the accomplishments of a + gunbearer are worthy of a man's best faculties, for they include the + ability to see and track game, to take and prepare properly any sort of a + trophy, field taxidermy, butchering game meat, wood and plainscraft, the + knowledge of how properly to care for firearms in all sorts of + circumstances, and a half hundred other like minutiae. Memba Sasa knew + these things, and he performed them with the artist's love for details; + and his keen eyes were always spying for new ways. + </p> + <p> + At a certain time I shot an egret, and prepared to take the skin. Memba + Sasa asked if he might watch me do it. Two months later, having killed a + really gaudy peacocklike member of the guinea fowl tribe, I handed it over + to him with instructions to take off the breast feathers before giving it + to the cook. In a half hour he brought me the complete skin, I examined it + carefully, and found it to be well done in every respect. Now in skinning + a bird there are a number of delicate and unusual operations, such as + stripping the primary quills from the bone, cutting the ear cover, and the + like. I had explained none of them; and yet Memba Sasa, unassisted, had + grasped their method from a single demonstration and had remembered them + all two months later! C. had a trick in making the second skin incision of + a trophy head that had the effect of giving a better purchase to the + knife. Its exact description would be out of place here, but it actually + consisted merely in inserting the point of the knife two inches away from + the place it is ordinarily inserted. One day we noticed that Memba Sasa + was making his incisions in that manner. I went to Africa fully determined + to care for my own rifle. The modern high-velocity gun needs rather + especial treatment; mere wiping out will not do. I found that Memba Sasa + already knew all about boiling water, and the necessity for having it + really boiling, about subsequent metal sweating, and all the rest. After + watching him at work I concluded, rightly, that he would do a lot better + job than I. + </p> + <p> + To the new employer Memba Sasa maintained an attitude of strict + professional loyalty. His personal respect was upheld by the necessity of + every man to do his job in the world. Memba Sasa did his. He cleaned the + rifles; he saw that everything was in order for the day's march; he was at + my elbow all ways with more cartridges and the spare rifle; he trailed and + looked conscientiously. In his attitude was the stolidity of the wooden + Indian. No action of mine, no joke on the part of his companions, no + circumstance in the varying fortunes of the field gained from him the + faintest flicker of either approval, disapproval, or interest. When we + returned to camp he deposited my water bottle and camera, seized the + cleaning implements, and departed to his own campfire. In the field he + pointed out game that I did not see, and waited imperturbably the result + of my shot. + </p> + <p> + As I before stated, the result of that shot for the first five days was + very apt to be nil. This, at the time, puzzled and grieved me a lot. + Occasionally I looked at Memba Sasa to catch some sign of sympathy, + disgust, contempt, or-rarely-triumph at a lucky shot. Nothing. He gently + but firmly took away my rifle, reloaded it, and handed it back; then + waited respectfully for my next move. He knew no English, and I no + Swahili. + </p> + <p> + But as time went on this attitude changed. I was armed with the new + Springfield rifle, a weapon with 2,700 feet velocity, and with a + marvellously flat trajectory. This commanding advantage, combined with a + very long familiarity with firearms, enabled me to do some fairish + shooting, after the strangeness of these new conditions had been mastered. + Memba Sasa began to take a dawning interest in me as a possible source of + pride. We began to develop between us a means of communication. I set + myself deliberately to learn his language, and after he had cautiously + determined that I really meant it, he took the greatest pains-always + gravely-to teach me. A more human feeling sprang up between us. + </p> + <p> + But we had still the final test to undergo-that of danger and the tight + corner. + </p> + <p> + In close quarters the gunbearer has the hardest job in the world. I have + the most profound respect for his absolute courage. Even to a man armed + and privileged to shoot and defend himself, a charging lion is an awesome + thing, requiring a certain amount of coolness and resolution to face + effectively. Think of the gunbearer at his elbow, depending not on himself + but on the courage and coolness of another. He cannot do one solitary + thing to defend himself. To bolt for the safety of a tree is to beg the + question completely, to brand himself as a shenzi forever; to fire a gun + in any circumstances is to beg the question also, for the white man must + be able to depend absolutely on his second gun in an emergency. Those + things are outside consideration, even, of any respectable gunbearer. In + addition, he must keep cool. He must see clearly in the thickest + excitement; must be ready unobtrusively to pass up the second gun in the + position most convenient for immediate use, to seize the other and to + perform the finicky task of reloading correctly while some rampageous + beast is raising particular thunder a few yards away. All this in absolute + dependence on the ability of his bwana to deal with the situation. I can + confess very truly that once or twice that little unobtrusive touch of + Memba Sasa crouched close to my elbow steadied me with the thought of how + little right I-with a rifle in my hand-had to be scared. And the best + compliment I ever received I overheard by chance. I had wounded a lion + when out by myself, and had returned to camp for a heavier rifle and for + Memba Sasa to do the trailing. From my tent I overheard the following + conversation between Memba Sasa and the cook: + </p> + <p> + “The grass is high,” said the cook. “Are you not afraid to go after a + wounded lion with only one white man?” + </p> + <p> + “My one white man is enough,” replied Memba Sasa. + </p> + <p> + It is a quality of courage that I must confess would be quite beyond me-to + depend entirely on the other fellow, and not at all on myself. This + courage is always remarkable to me, even in the case of the gunbearer who + knows all about the man whose heels he follows. But consider that of the + gunbearer's first experience with a stranger. The former has no idea of + how the white man will act; whether he will get nervous, get actually + panicky, lose his shooting ability, and generally mess things up. + Nevertheless, he follows his master in, and he stands by. If the hunter + fails, the gunbearer will probably die. To me it is rather fine: for he + does it, not from the personal affection and loyalty which will carry men + far, but from a sheer sense of duty and pride of caste. The quiet pride of + the really good men, like Memba Sasa, is easy to understand. + </p> + <p> + And the records are full of stories of the white man who has not made + good: of the coward who bolts, leaving his black man to take the brunt of + it, or who sticks but loses his head. Each new employer must be very + closely and interestedly scrutinized. In the light of subsequent + experience, I can no longer wonder at Memba Sasa's first detached and + impersonal attitude. + </p> + <p> + As time went on, however, and we grew to know each other better, this + attitude entirely changed. At first the change consisted merely in + dropping the disinterested pose as respects game. For it was a pose. Memba + Sasa was most keenly interested in game whenever it was an object of + pursuit. It did not matter how common the particular species might be: if + we wanted it, Memba Sasa would look upon it with eager ferocity; and if we + did not want it, he paid no attention to it at all. When we started in the + morning, or in the relaxation of our return at night, I would mention + casually a few of the things that might prove acceptable. + </p> + <p> + “To-morrow we want kongoni for boys' meat, or zebra; and some meat for + masters-Tommy, impala, oribi,” and Memba Sasa knew as well as I did what + we needed to fill out our trophy collection. When he caught sight of one + of these animals his whole countenance changed. The lines of his face set, + his lips drew back from his teeth, his eyes fairly darted fire in the + fixity of their gaze. He was like a fine pointer dog on birds, or like the + splendid savage he was at heart. + </p> + <p> + “M'palla!” he hissed; and then after a second, in a restrained fierce + voice, “Na-ona? Do you see?” + </p> + <p> + If I did not see he pointed cautiously. His own eyes never left the beast. + Rarely he stayed put while I made the stalk. More often he glided like a + snake at my heels. If the bullet hit, Memba Sasa always exhaled a grunt of + satisfaction-“hah!”-in which triumph and satisfaction mingled with a faint + derision at the unfortunate beast. In case of a trophy he squatted + anxiously at the animal's head while I took my measurements, assisting + very intelligently with the tape line. When I had finished, he always + looked up at me with wrinkled brow. + </p> + <p> + “Footie n'gapi?” he inquired. This means literally, “How many feet?”, + footie being his euphemistic invention of a word for the tape. I would + tell him how many “footie” and how many “inchie” the measurement proved to + be. From the depths of his wonderful memory he would dig up the + measurements of another beast of the same sort I had killed months back, + but which he had remembered accurately from a single hearing. + </p> + <p> + The shooting of a beast he always detailed to his few cronies in camp: the + other gunbearers, and one or two from his own tribe. He always used the + first person plural, “we” did so and so; and took an inordinate pride in + making out his bwana as being an altogether superior person to any of the + other gunbearer's bwanas. Over a miss he always looked sad; but with a + dignified sadness as though we had met with undeserved misfortune sent by + malignant gods. If there were any possible alleviating explanation, Memba + Sasa made the most of it, provided our fiasco was witnessed. If we were + alone in our disgrace, he buried the incident fathoms deep. He took an + inordinate pride in our using the minimum number of cartridges, and would + explain to me in a loud tone of voice that we had cartridges enough in the + belt. When we had not cartridges enough, he would sneak around after dark + to get some more. At times he would even surreptitiously “lift” a few from + B.'s gunbearer! + </p> + <p> + When in camp, with his “cazi” finished, Memba Sasa did fancy work! The + picture of this powerful half-savage, his fierce brows bent over a tiny + piece of linen, his strong fingers fussing with little stitches, will + always appeal to my sense of the incongruous. Through a piece of linen he + punched holes with a porcupine quill. Then he “buttonhole” stitched the + holes, and embroidered patterns between them with fine white thread. The + result was an openwork pattern heavily encrusted with beautiful fine + embroidery. It was most astounding stuff, such as you would expect from a + French convent, perhaps, but never from an African savage. He did a + circular piece and a long narrow piece. They took him three months to + finish, and then he sewed them together to form a skull cap. Billy, + entranced with the lacelike delicacy of the work, promptly captured it; + whereupon Memba Sasa philosophically started another. + </p> + <p> + By this time he had identified himself with my fortunes. We had become a + firm whose business it was to carry out the affairs of a single + personality-me. Memba Sasa, among other things, undertook the dignity. + When I walked through a crowd, Memba Sasa zealously kicked everybody out + of my royal path. When I started to issue a command, Memba Sasa finished + it and amplified it and put a snapper on it. When I came into camp, Memba + Sasa saw to it personally that my tent went up promptly and properly, + although that was really not part of his “cazi” at all. And when somewhere + beyond my ken some miserable boy had committed a crime, I never remained + long in ignorance of that fact. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps I happened to be sitting in my folding chair idly smoking a pipe + and reading a book. Across the open places of the camp would stride Memba + Sasa, very erect, very rigid, moving in short indignant jerks, his eye + flashing fire. Behind him would sneak a very hang-dog boy. Memba Sasa + marched straight up to me, faced right, and drew one side, his silence + sparkling with honest indignation. + </p> + <p> + “Just look at THAT!” his attitude seemed to say, “Could you believe such + human depravity possible? And against OUR authority?” + </p> + <p> + He always stood, quite rigid, waiting for me to speak. + </p> + <p> + “Well, Memba Sasa?” I would inquire, after I had enjoyed the show a + little. + </p> + <p> + In a few restrained words he put the case before me, always briefly, + always with a scornful dignity. This shenzi has done so-and-so. + </p> + <p> + We will suppose the case fairly serious. I listened to the man's story, if + necessary called a few witnesses, delivered judgment. All the while Memba + Sasa stood at rigid attention, fairly bristling virtue, like the good dog + standing by at the punishment of the bad dogs. And in his attitude was a + subtle triumph, as one would say: “You see! Fool with my bwana, will you! + Just let anybody try to get funny with US!” Judgment pronounced-we have + supposed the case serious, you remember-Memba Sasa himself applied the + lash. I think he really enjoyed that; but it was a restrained joy. The + whip descended deliberately, without excitement. + </p> + <p> + The man's devotion in unusual circumstances was beyond praise. Danger or + excitement incite a sort of loyalty in any good man; but humdrum, + disagreeable difficulty is a different matter. + </p> + <p> + One day we marched over a country of thorn-scrub desert. Since two days we + had been cut loose from water, and had been depending on a small amount + carried in zinc drums. Now our only reasons for faring were a conical + hill, over the horizon, and the knowledge of a river somewhere beyond. How + far beyond, or in what direction, we did not know. We had thirty men with + us, a more or less ragtag lot, picked up anyhow in the bazaars. They were + soft, ill-disciplined and uncertain. For five or six hours they marched + well enough. Then the sun began to get very hot, and some of them began to + straggle. They had, of course, no intention of deserting, for their only + hope of surviving lay in staying with us; but their loads had become + heavy, and they took too many rests. We put a good man behind, but without + much avail. In open country a safari can be permitted to straggle over + miles, for always it can keep in touch by sight; but in this thorn-scrub + desert, that looks all alike, a man fifty yards out of sight is fifty + yards lost. We would march fifteen or twenty minutes, then sit down to + wait until the rearmost men had straggled in, perhaps a half hour later. + And we did not dare move on until the tale of our thirty was complete. At + this rate progress was very slow, and as the fierce equatorial sun + increased in strength, became always slower still. The situation became + alarming. We were quite out of water, and we had no idea where water was + to be found. To complicate matters, the thornbrush thickened to a jungle. + </p> + <p> + My single companion and I consulted. It was agreed that I was to push on + as rapidly as possible to locate the water, while he was to try to hold + the caravan together. Accordingly, Memba Sasa and I marched ahead. We + tried to leave a trail to follow; and we hoped fervently that our guess as + to the stream's course would prove to be a good one. At the end of two + hours and a half we found the water-a beautiful jungle-shaded stream-and + filled ourselves up therewith. Our duty was accomplished, for we had left + a trail to be followed. Nevertheless, I felt I should like to take back + our full canteens to relieve the worst cases. Memba Sasa would not hear of + it, and even while I was talking to him seized the canteens and + disappeared. + </p> + <p> + At the end of two hours more camp was made, after a fashion; but still + four men had failed to come in. We built a smudge in the hope of guiding + them; and gave them up. If they had followed our trail, they should have + been in long ago; if they had missed that trail, heaven knows where they + were, or where we should go to find them. Dusk was falling, and, to tell + the truth, we were both very much done up by a long day at 115 degrees in + the shade under an equatorial sun. The missing men would climb trees away + from the beasts, and we would organize a search next day. As we debated + these things, to us came Memba Sasa. + </p> + <p> + “I want to take 'Winchi,'” said he. “Winchi” is his name for my Winchester + 405. + </p> + <p> + “Why?” we asked. + </p> + <p> + “If I can take Winchi, I will find the men,” said he. + </p> + <p> + This was entirely voluntary on his part. He, as well as we, had had a hard + day, and he had made a double journey for part of it. We gave him Winchi + and he departed. Sometime after midnight he returned with the missing men. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps a dozen times all told he volunteered for these special services; + once in particular, after a fourteen-hour day, he set off at nine o'clock + at night in a soaking rainstorm, wandered until two o'clock, and returned + unsuccessful, to rouse me and report gravely that he could not find them. + For these services he neither received nor expected special reward. And + catch him doing anything outside his strict “cazi” except for US. + </p> + <p> + We were always very ceremonious and dignified in our relations on such + occasions. Memba Sasa would suddenly appear, deposit the rifle in its + place, and stand at attention. + </p> + <p> + “Well, Memba Sasa?” I would inquire. + </p> + <p> + “I have found the men; they are in camp.” + </p> + <p> + Then I would give him his reward. It was either the word “assanti,” or the + two words “assanti sana,” according to the difficulty and importance of + the task accomplished. They mean simply “thank you” and “thank you very + much.” + </p> + <p> + Once or twice, after a particularly long and difficult month or so, when + Memba Sasa has been almost literally my alter ego, I have called him up + for special praise. “I am very pleased with you, Memba Sasa,” said I. “You + have done your cazi well. You are a good man.” + </p> + <p> + He accepted this with dignity, without deprecation, and without the idiocy + of spoken gratitude. He agreed perfectly with everything I said! “Yes” was + his only comment. I liked it. + </p> + <p> + On our ultimate success in a difficult enterprise Memba Sasa set great + store; and his delight in ultimate success was apparently quite apart from + personal considerations. We had been hunting greater kudu for five weeks + before we finally landed one. The greater kudu is, with the bongo, easily + the prize beast in East Africa, and very few are shot. By a piece of bad + luck, for him, I had sent Memba Sasa out in a different direction to look + for signs the afternoon we finally got one. The kill was made just at + dusk. C. and I, with Mavrouki, built a fire and stayed, while Kongoni went + to camp after men. There he broke the news to Memba Sasa that the great + prize had been captured, and he absent. Memba Sasa was hugely delighted, + nor did he in any way show what must have been a great disappointment to + him. After repeating the news triumphantly to every one in camp, he came + out to where we were waiting, arrived quite out of breath, and grabbed me + by the hand in heartiest congratulation. + </p> + <p> + Memba Sasa went in not at all for personal ornamentation, any more than he + allowed his dignity to be broken by anything resembling emotionalism. No + tattoo marks, no ear ornaments, no rings nor bracelets. He never even + picked up an ostrich feather for his head. On the latter he sometimes wore + an old felt hat; sometimes, more picturesquely, an orange-coloured fillet. + Khaki shirt, khaki “shorts,” blue puttees, besides his knife and my own + accoutrements: that was all. In town he was all white clad, a long fine + linen robe reaching to his feet; and one of the lacelike skull caps he was + so very skilful at making. + </p> + <p> + That will do for a preliminary sketch. If you follow these pages, you will + hear more of him; he is worth it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + VI. THE FIRST GAME CAMP + </h2> + <p> + In the review of “first” impressions with which we are concerned, we must + now skip a week or ten days to stop at what is known in our diaries as the + First Ford of the Guaso Nyero River. + </p> + <p> + These ten days were not uneventful. We had crossed the wide and undulating + plains, had paused at some tall beautiful falls plunging several hundred + feet into the mysteriousness of a dense forest on which we looked down. + There we had enjoyed some duck, goose and snipe shooting; had made the + acquaintance of a few of the Masai, and had looked with awe on our first + hippo tracks in the mud beside a tiny ditchlike stream. Here and there + were small game herds. In the light of later experience we now realize + that these were nothing at all; but at the time the sight of full-grown + wild animals out in plain sight was quite wonderful. At the close of the + day's march we always wandered out with our rifles to see what we could + find. Everything was new to us, and we had our men to feed. Our shooting + gradually improved until we had overcome the difficulties peculiar to this + new country and were doing as well as we could do anywhere. + </p> + <p> + Now, at the end of a hard day through scrub, over rolling bold hills, and + down a scrub brush slope, we had reached the banks of the Guaso Nyero. + </p> + <p> + At this point, above the junction of its principal tributary rivers, it + was a stream about sixty or seventy feet wide, flowing swift between high + banks. A few trees marked its course, but nothing like a jungle. The ford + was in swift water just above a deep still pool suspected of crocodiles. + We found the water about waist deep, stretched a rope across, and forcibly + persuaded our eager boys that one at a time was about what the situation + required. On the other side we made camp on an open flat. Having marched + so far continuously, we resolved to settle down for a while. The men had + been without sufficient meat; and we desired very much to look over the + country closely, and to collect a few heads as trophies. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps a word might not come amiss as to the killing of game. The case is + here quite different from the condition of affairs at home. Here animal + life is most extraordinarily abundant; it furnishes the main food supply + to the traveller; and at present is probably increasing slightly, + certainly holding its own. Whatever toll the sportsman or traveller take + is as nothing compared to what he might take if he were an unscrupulous + game hog. If his cartridges and his shoulder held out, he could easily + kill a hundred animals a day instead of the few he requires. In that + sense, then, no man slaughters indiscriminately. During the course of a + year he probably shoots from two hundred to two hundred and fifty beasts, + provided he is travelling with an ordinary sized caravan. This, the + experts say, is about the annual toll of one lion. If the traveller gets + his lion, he plays even with the fauna of the country; if he gets two or + more lions, he has something to his credit. This probably explains why the + game is still so remarkably abundant near the road and on the very + outskirts of the town. + </p> + <p> + We were now much in need of a fair quantity of meat, both for immediate + consumption of our safari, and to make biltong or jerky. Later, in like + circumstances, we should have sallied forth in a businesslike fashion, + dropped the requisite number of zebra and hartebeeste as near camp as + possible, and called it a job. Now, however, being new to the game, we + much desired good trophies in variety. Therefore, we scoured the country + far and wide for desirable heads; and the meat waited upon the acquisition + of the trophy. + </p> + <p> + This, then, might be called our first Shooting Camp. Heretofore we had + travelled every day. Now the boys settled down to what the native porter + considers the height of bliss: a permanent camp with plenty to eat. Each + morning we were off before daylight, riding our horses, and followed by + the gunbearers, the syces, and fifteen or twenty porters. The country rose + from the river in a long gentle slope grown with low brush and scattered + candlestick euphorbias. This slope ended in a scattered range of low rocky + buttes. Through any one of the various openings between them, we rode to + find ourselves on the borders of an undulating grass country of low + rounded hills with wide valleys winding between them. In these valleys and + on these hills was the game. + </p> + <p> + Daylight of the day I would tell about found us just at the edge of the + little buttes. Down one of the slopes the growing half light revealed two + oryx feeding, magnificent big creatures, with straight rapier horns three + feet in length. These were most exciting and desirable, so off my horse I + got and began to sneak up on them through the low tufts of grass. They fed + quite calmly. I congratulated myself, and slipped nearer. Without even + looking in my direction, they trotted away. Somewhat chagrined, I returned + to my companions, and we rode on. + </p> + <p> + Then across a mile-wide valley we saw two dark objects in the tall grass; + and almost immediately identified these as rhinoceroses, the first we had + seen. They stood there side by side, gazing off into space, doing nothing + in a busy morning world. After staring at them through our glasses for + some time, we organized a raid. At the bottom of the valley we left the + horses and porters; lined up, each with his gunbearer at his elbow; and + advanced on the enemy. B. was to have the shot According to all the books + we should have been able, provided we were downwind and made no noise, to + have approached within fifty or sixty yards undiscovered. However, at a + little over a hundred yards they both turned tail and departed at a swift + trot, their heads held well up and their tails sticking up straight and + stiff in the most ridiculous fashion. No good shooting at them in such + circumstances, so we watched them go, still keeping up their slashing + trot, growing smaller and smaller in the distance until finally they + disappeared over the top of a swell. + </p> + <p> + We set ourselves methodically to following them. It took us over an hour + of steady plodding before we again came in sight of them. They were this + time nearer the top of a hill, and we saw instantly that the curve of the + slope was such that we could approach within fifty yards before coming in + sight at all. Therefore, once more we dismounted, lined up in battle + array, and advanced. + </p> + <p> + Sensations? Distinctly nervous, decidedly alert, and somewhat + self-congratulatory that I was not more scared. No man can predicate how + efficient he is going to be in the presence of really dangerous game. Only + the actual trial will show. This is not a question of courage at all, but + of purely involuntary reaction of the nerves. Very few men are physical + cowards. They will and do face anything. But a great many men are rendered + inefficient by the way their nervous systems act under stress. It is not a + matter for control by will power in the slightest degree. So the big game + hunter must determine by actual trial whether it so happens that the great + excitement of danger renders his hand shaky or steady. The excitement in + either case is the same. No man is ever “cool” in the sense that personal + danger is of the same kind of indifference to him as clambering aboard a + street car. He must always be lifted above himself, must enter an extra + normal condition to meet extra normal circumstances. He can always control + his conduct; but he can by no means always determine the way the + inevitable excitement will affect his coordinations. And unfortunately, in + the final result it does not matter how brave a man is, but how closely he + can hold. If he finds that his nervous excitement renders him unsteady, he + has no business ever to tackle dangerous game alone. If, on the other + hand, he discovers that IDENTICALLY THE SAME nervous excitement happens to + steady his front sight to rocklike rigidity-a rigidity he could not + possibly attain in normal conditions-then he will probably keep out of + trouble. + </p> + <p> + To amplify this further by a specific instance: I hunted for a short time + in Africa with a man who was always eager for exciting encounters, whose + pluck was admirable in every way, but whose nervous reaction so manifested + itself that he was utterly unable to do even decent shooting at any range. + Furthermore, his very judgment and power of observation were so obscured + that he could not remember afterward with any accuracy what had + happened-which way the beast was pointing, how many there were of them, in + which direction they went, how many shots were fired, in short all the + smaller details of the affair. He thought he remembered. After the show + was over it was quite amusing to get his version of the incident. It was + almost always so wide of the fact as to be little recognizable. And, mind + you, he was perfectly sincere in his belief, and absolutely courageous. + Only he was quite unfitted by physical make-up for a big game hunter; and + I was relieved when, after a short time, his route and mine separated. + </p> + <p> + Well, we clambered up that slope with a fine compound of tension, + expectation, and latent uneasiness as to just what was going to happen, + anyway. Finally, we raised the backs of the beasts, stooped, sneaked a + little nearer, and finally at a signal stood upright perhaps forty yards + from the brutes. + </p> + <p> + For the first time I experienced a sensation I was destined many times to + repeat-that of the sheer size of the animals. Menagerie rhinoceroses had + been of the smaller Indian variety; and in any case most menagerie beasts + are more or less stunted. These two, facing us, their little eyes + blinking, looked like full-grown ironclads on dry land. The moment we + stood erect B. fired at the larger of the two. Instantly they turned and + were off at a tearing run. I opened fire, and B. let loose his second + barrel. At about two hundred and fifty yards the big rhinoceros suddenly + fell on his side, while the other continued his flight. It was all + over-very exciting because we got excited, but not in the least dangerous. + </p> + <p> + The boys were delighted, for here was meat in plenty for everybody. We + measured the beast, photographed him, marvelled at his immense size, and + turned him over to the gunbearers for treatment. In half an hour or so a + long string of porters headed across the hills in the direction of camp, + many miles distant, each carrying his load either of meat, or the + trophies. Rhinoceros hide, properly treated, becomes as transparent as + amber, and so from it can be made many very beautiful souvenirs, such as + bowls, trays, paper knives, table tops, whips, canes, and the like. And, + of course, the feet of one's first rhino are always saved for cigar boxes + or inkstands. + </p> + <p> + Already we had an admiring and impatient audience. From all directions + came the carrion birds. They circled far up in the heavens; they shot + downward like plummets from a great height with an inspiring roar of + wings; they stood thick in a solemn circle all around the scene of the + kill; they rose with a heavy flapping when we moved in their direction. + Skulking forms flashed in the grass, and occasionally the pointed ears of + a jackal would rise inquiringly. + </p> + <p> + It was by now nearly noon. The sun shone clear and hot; the heat shimmer + rose in clouds from the brown surface of the hills. In all directions we + could make out small gameherds resting motionless in the heat of the day, + the mirage throwing them into fantastic shapes. While the final + disposition was being made of the defunct rhinoceros I wandered over the + edge of the hill to see what I could see, and fairly blundered on a herd + of oryx at about a hundred and fifty yards range. They looked at me a + startled instant, then leaped away to the left at a tremendous speed. By a + lucky shot, I bowled one over. He was a beautiful beast, with his black + and white face and his straight rapierlike horns nearly three feet long, + and I was most pleased to get him. Memba Sasa came running at the sound of + the shot. We set about preparing the head. + </p> + <p> + Then through a gap in the hills far to the left we saw a little black + speck moving rapidly in our direction. At the end of a minute we could + make it out as the second rhinoceros. He had run heaven knows how many + miles away, and now he was returning; whether with some idea of rejoining + his companion or from sheer chance, I do not know. At any rate, here he + was, still ploughing along at his swinging trot. His course led him along + a side hill about four hundred yards from where the oryx lay. When he was + directly opposite I took the Springfield and fired, not at him, but at a + spot five or six feet in front of his nose. The bullet threw up a column + of dust. Rhino brought up short with astonishment, wheeled to the left, + and made off at a gallop. I dropped another bullet in front of him. Again + he stopped, changed direction, and made off. For the third time I hit the + ground in front of him. Then he got angry, put his head down and charged + the spot. + </p> + <p> + Five more shots I expended on the amusement of that rhinoceros; and at the + last had run furiously charging back and forth in a twenty-yard space, + very angry at the little puffing, screeching bullets, but quite unable to + catch one. Then he made up his mind and departed the way he had come, + finally disappearing as a little rapidly moving black speck through the + gap in the hills where we had first caught sight of him. + </p> + <p> + We finished caring for the oryx, and returned to camp. To our surprise we + found we were at least seven or eight miles out. + </p> + <p> + In this fashion days passed very quickly. The early dewy start in the cool + of the morning, the gradual grateful warming up of sunrise, and + immediately after, the rest during the midday heats under a shady tree, + the long trek back to camp at sunset, the hot bath after the toilsome + day-all these were very pleasant. Then the swift falling night, and the + gleam of many tiny fires springing up out of the darkness; with each its + sticks full of meat roasting, and its little circle of men, their skins + gleaming in the light. As we sat smoking, we would become aware that + M'ganga, the headman, was standing silent awaiting orders. Some one would + happen to see the white of his eyes, or perhaps he might smile so that his + teeth would become visible. Otherwise he might stand there an hour, and no + one the wiser, for he was respectfully silent, and exactly the colour of + the night. + </p> + <p> + We would indicate to him our plans for the morrow, and he would disappear. + Then at a distance of twenty or thirty feet from the front of our tents a + tiny tongue of flame would lick up. Dark figures could be seen + manipulating wood. A blazing fire sprang up, against which we could see + the motionless and picturesque figure of Saa-sita (Six o'Clock), the + askari of the first night watch, leaning on his musket. He was a most + picturesque figure, for his fancy ran to original headdresses, and at the + moment he affected a wonderful upstanding structure made of marabout + wings. + </p> + <p> + At this sign that the night had begun, we turned in. A few hyenas moaned, + a few jackals barked: otherwise the first part of the night was silent, + for the hunters were at their silent business, and the hunted were “layin' + low and sayin' nuffin'.” + </p> + <p> + Day after day we rode out, exploring the country in different directions. + The great uncertainty as to what of interest we would find filled the + hours with charm. Sometimes we clambered about the cliffs of the buttes + trying to find klipspringers; again we ran miles pursuing the gigantic + eland. I in turn got my first rhinoceros, with no more danger than had + attended the killing of B.'s. On this occasion, however, I had my first + experience of the lightning skill of the first-class gunbearer. Having + fired both barrels, and staggered the beast, I threw open the breech and + withdrew the empty cartridges, intending, of course, as my next move to + fish two more out of my belt. The empty shells were hardly away from the + chambers, however, when a long brown arm shot over my right shoulder and + popped two fresh cartridges in the breech. So astonished was I at this + unexpected apparition, that for a second or so I actually forgot to close + the gun. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + VII. ON THE MARCH + </h2> + <p> + After leaving the First Game Camp, we travelled many hours and miles over + rolling hills piling ever higher and higher until they broke through a + pass to illimitable plains. These plains were mantled with the dense + scrub, looking from a distance and from above like the nap of soft green + velvet. Here and there this scrub broke in round or oval patches of grass + plain. Great mountain ranges peered over the edge of a horizon. Lesser + mountain peaks of fantastic shapes-sheer Yosemite cliffs, single buttes, + castles-had ventured singly from behind that same horizon barricade. The + course of a river was marked by a meandering line of green jungle. + </p> + <p> + It took us two days to get to that river. Our intermediate camp was + halfway down the pass. We ousted a hundred indignant straw-coloured + monkeys and twice as many baboons from the tiny flat above the water hole. + They bobbed away cursing over their shoulders at us. Next day we debouched + on the plains. They were rolling, densely grown, covered with volcanic + stones, swarming with game of various sorts. The men marched well. They + were happy, for they had had a week of meat; and each carried a light + lunch of sun-dried biltong or jerky. Some mistaken individuals had + attempted to bring along some “fresh” meat. We found it advisable to pass + to windward of these; but they themselves did not seem to mind. + </p> + <p> + It became very hot; for we were now descending to the lower elevations. + The marching through long grass and over volcanic stones was not easy. + Shortly we came out on stumbly hills, mostly rock, very dry, grown with + cactus and discouraged desiccated thorn scrub. Here the sun reflected + powerfully and the bearers began to flag. + </p> + <p> + Then suddenly, without warning, we pitched over a little rise to the + river. + </p> + <p> + No more marvellous contrast could have been devised. From the blasted + barren scrub country we plunged into the lush jungle. It was not a very + wide jungle, but it was sufficient. The trees were large and variegated, + reaching to a high and spacious upper story above the ground tangle. From + the massive limbs hung vines, festooned and looped like great serpents. + Through this upper corridor flitted birds of bright hue or striking + variegation. We did not know many of them by name, nor did we desire to; + but were content with the impression of vivid flashing movement and + colour. Various monkeys swung, leaped and galloped slowly away before our + advance; pausing to look back at us curiously, the ruffs of fur standing + out all around their little black faces. The lower half of the forest + jungle, however, had no spaciousness at all, but a certain breathless + intimacy. Great leaved plants as tall as little trees, and trees as small + as big plants, bound together by vines, made up the “deep impenetrable + jungle” of our childhood imagining. Here were rustlings, sudden + scurryings, half-caught glimpses, once or twice a crash as some greater + animal made off. Here and there through the thicket wandered well beaten + trails, wide, but low, so that to follow them one would have to bend + double. These were the paths of rhinoceroses. The air smelt warm and moist + and earthy, like the odour of a greenhouse. + </p> + <p> + We skirted this jungle until it gave way to let the plain down to the + river. Then, in an open grove of acacias, and fairly on the river's bank, + we pitched our tents. + </p> + <p> + These acacia trees were very noble big chaps, with many branches and a + thick shade. In their season they are wonderfully blossomed with white, + with yellow, sometimes even with vivid red flowers. Beneath them was only + a small matter of ferns to clear away. + </p> + <p> + Before us the sodded bank rounded off ten feet the river itself. At this + point far up in its youth it was a friendly river. Its noble width ran + over shallows of yellow sand or of small pebbles. Save for unexpected deep + holes one could wade across it anywhere. Yet it was very wide, with still + reaches of water, with islands of gigantic papyrus, with sand bars + dividing the current, and with always the vista for a greater or lesser + distance down through the jungle along its banks. From our canvas chairs + we could look through on one side to the arid country, and on the other to + this tropical wonderland. + </p> + <p> + Yes, at this point in its youth it was indeed a friendly river in every + sense of the word. There are three reasons, ordinarily, why one cannot + bathe in the African rivers. In the first place, they are nearly all + disagreeably muddy; in the second place, cold water in a tropical climate + causes horrible congestions; in the third place they swarm with crocodiles + and hippos. But this river was as yet unpolluted by the alluvial soil of + the lower countries; the sun on its shallows had warmed its waters almost + to blood heat; and the beasts found no congenial haunts in these clear + shoals. Almost before our tents were up the men were splashing. And always + my mental image of that river's beautiful expanse must include round black + heads floating like gourds where the water ran smoothest. + </p> + <p> + Our tents stood all in a row facing the stream, the great trees at their + backs. Down in the grove the men had pitched their little white shelters. + Happily they settled down to ease. Settling down to ease, in the case of + the African porter, consists in discarding as many clothes as possible. + While on the march he wears everything he owns; whether from pride or a + desire to simplify transportation I am unable to say. He is supplied by + his employer with a blanket and jersey. As supplementals he can generally + produce a half dozen white man's ill-assorted garments: an old shooting + coat, a ragged pair of khaki breeches, a kitchen tablecloth for a skirt, + or something of the sort. If he can raise an overcoat he is happy, + especially if it happen to be a long, thick WINTER overcoat. The possessor + of such a garment will wear it conscientiously throughout the longest + journey and during the hottest noons. But when he relaxes in camp, he puts + away all these prideful possessions and turns out in the savage simplicity + of his red blanket. Draped negligently, sometimes very negligently, in + what may be termed semi-toga fashion, he stalks about or squats before his + little fire in all the glory of a regained savagery. The contrast of the + red with his red bronze or black skin, the freedom and grace of his + movements, the upright carriage of his fine figure, and the flickering + savagery playing in his eyes are very effective. + </p> + <p> + Our men occupied their leisure variously and happily. A great deal of time + they spent before their tiny fires roasting meat and talking. This talk + was almost invariably of specific personal experiences. They bathed + frequently and with pleasure. They slept. Between times they fashioned + ingenious affairs of ornament or use: bows and arrows, throwing clubs, + snuff-boxes of the tips of antelope horns, bound prettily with bright + wire, wooden swords beautifully carved in exact imitation of the white + man's service weapon, and a hundred other such affairs. At this particular + time also they were much occupied in making sandals against the thorns. + These were flat soles of rawhide, the edges pounded to make them curl up a + trifle over the foot, fastened by thongs; very ingenious, and very useful. + To their task they brought song. The labour of Africa is done to song; + weird minor chanting starting high in the falsetto to trickle unevenly + down to the lower registers, or where the matter is one of serious effort, + an antiphony of solo and chorus. From all parts of the camp come these + softly modulated chantings, low and sweet, occasionally breaking into full + voice as the inner occasion swells, then almost immediately falling again + to the murmuring undertone of more concentrated attention. + </p> + <p> + The red blanket was generally worn knotted from one shoulder or bound + around the waist Malay fashion. When it turned into a cowl, with a + miserable and humpbacked expression, it became the Official Badge of + Illness. No matter what was the matter that was the proper thing to do-to + throw the blanket over the head and to assume as miserable a demeanour as + possible. A sore toe demanded just as much concentrated woe as a case of + pneumonia. Sick call was cried after the day's work was finished. Then + M'ganga or one of the askaris lifted up his voice. + </p> + <p> + “N'gonjwa! n'gonjwa!” he shouted; and at the shout the red cowls gathered + in front of the tent. Three things were likely to be the matter: too much + meat, fever, or pus infection from slight wounds. To these in the rainy + season would be added the various sorts of colds. That meant either Epsom + salts, quinine, or a little excursion with the lancet and permanganate. + The African traveller gets to be heap big medicine man within these narrow + limits. + </p> + <p> + All the red cowls squatted miserably, oh, very miserably, in a row. The + headman stood over them rather fiercely. We surveyed the lot + contemplatively, hoping to heaven that nothing complicated was going to + turn up. One of the tent boys hovered in the background as dispensing + chemist. + </p> + <p> + “Well,” said F. at last, “what's the matter with you?” + </p> + <p> + The man indicated pointed to his head and the back of his neck and + groaned. If he had a slight headache he groaned just as much as though his + head were splitting. F. asked a few questions, and took his temperature. + The clinical thermometer is in itself considered big medicine, and often + does much good. + </p> + <p> + “Too much meat, my friend,” remarked F. in English, and to his boy in + Swahili, “bring the cup.” + </p> + <p> + He put in this cup a triple dose of Epsom salts. The African requires + three times a white man's dose. This, pathologically, was all that was + required: but psychologically the job was just begun. Your African can do + wonderful things with his imagination. If he thinks he is going to die, + die he will, and very promptly, even though he is ailing of the most + trivial complaint. If he thinks he is going to get well, he is very apt to + do so in face of extraordinary odds. Therefore the white man desires not + only to start his patient's internal economy with Epsom salts, but also to + stir his faith. To this end F. added to that triple dose of medicine a + spoonful of Chutney, one of Worcestershire sauce, a few grains of quinine, + Sparklets water and a crystal or so of permanganate to turn the mixture a + beautiful pink. This assortment the patient drank with gratitude-and the + tears running down his cheeks. + </p> + <p> + “He will carry a load to-morrow,” F. told the attentive M'ganga. + </p> + <p> + The next patient had fever. This one got twenty grains of quinine in + water. + </p> + <p> + “This man carries no load to-morrow,” was the direction, “but he must not + drop behind.” + </p> + <p> + Two or three surgical cases followed. Then a big Kavirondo rose to his + feet. + </p> + <p> + “Nini?” demanded F. + </p> + <p> + “Homa-fever,” whined the man. + </p> + <p> + F. clapped his hand on the back of the other's neck. + </p> + <p> + “I think,” he remarked contemplatively in English, “that you're a liar, + and want to get out of carrying your load.” + </p> + <p> + The clinical thermometer showed no evidence of temperature. + </p> + <p> + “I'm pretty near sure you're a liar,” observed F. in the pleasantest + conversational tone and still in English, “but you may be merely a poor + diagnostician. Perhaps your poor insides couldn't get away with that + rotten meat I saw you lugging around. We'll see.” + </p> + <p> + So he mixed a pint of medicine. + </p> + <p> + “There's Epsom salts for the real part of trouble,” observed F., still + talking to himself, “and here's a few things for the fake.” + </p> + <p> + He then proceeded to concoct a mixture whose recoil was the exact measure + of his imagination. The imagination was only limited by the necessity of + keeping the mixture harmless. Every hot, biting, nauseous horror in camp + went into that pint measure. + </p> + <p> + “There,” concluded F., “if you drink that and come back again to-morrow + for treatment, I'll believe you ARE sick.” + </p> + <p> + Without undue pride I would like to record that I was the first to think + of putting in a peculiarly nauseous gun oil, and thereby acquired a + reputation of making tremendous medicine. + </p> + <p> + So implicit is this faith in white man's medicine that at one of the + Government posts we were approached by one of the secondary chiefs of the + district. He was a very nifty savage, dressed for calling, with his hair + done in ropes like a French poodle's, his skin carefully oiled and + reddened, his armlets and necklets polished, and with the ceremonial ball + of black feathers on the end of his long spear. His gait was the peculiar + mincing teeter of savage conventional society. According to custom, he + approached unsmiling, spat carefully in his palm, and shook hands. Then he + squatted and waited. + </p> + <p> + “What is it?” we asked after it became evident he really wanted something + besides the pleasure of our company. + </p> + <p> + “N'dowa-medicine,” said he. + </p> + <p> + “Why do you not go the Government dispensary?” we demanded. + </p> + <p> + “The doctor there is an Indian; I want REAL medicine, white man's + medicine,” he explained. + </p> + <p> + Immensely flattered, of course, we wanted further to know what ailed him. + </p> + <p> + “Nothing,” said he blandly, “nothing at all; but it seemed an excellent + chance to get good medicine.” + </p> + <p> + After the clinic was all attended to, we retired to our tents and the + screeching-hot bath so grateful in the tropics. When we emerged, in our + mosquito boots and pajamas, the daylight was gone. Scores of little blazes + licked and leaped in the velvet blackness round about, casting the + undergrowth and the lower branches of the trees into flat planes like the + cardboard of a stage setting. Cheerful, squatted figures sat in silhouette + or in the relief of chance high light. Long switches of meat roasted + before the fires. A hum of talk, bursts of laughter, the crooning of minor + chants mingled with the crackling of thorns. Before our tents stood the + table set for supper. Beyond it lay the pile of firewood, later to be + burned on the altar of our safety against beasts. The moonlight was + casting milky shadows over the river and under the trees opposite. In + those shadows gleamed many fireflies. Overhead were millions of stars, and + a little breeze that wandered through upper branches. + </p> + <p> + But in Equatorial Africa the simple bands of velvet black, against the + spangled brightnesses that make up the visual night world, must give way + in interest to the other world of sound. The air hums with an undertone of + insects; the plain and hill and jungle are populous with voices furtive or + bold. In daytime one sees animals enough, in all conscience, but only at + night does he sense the almost oppressive feeling of the teeming life + about him. The darkness is peopled. Zebra bark, bucks blow or snort or + make the weird noises of their respective species; hyenas howl; out of an + immense simian silence a group of monkeys suddenly break into chatterings; + ostriches utter their deep hollow boom; small things scurry and squeak; a + certain weird bird of the curlew or plover sort wails like a lonesome + soul. Especially by the river, as here, are the boomings of the weirdest + of weird bullfrogs, and the splashings and swishings of crocodile and + hippopotamus. One is impressed with the busyness of the world surrounding + him; every bird or beast, the hunter and the hunted, is the centre of many + important affairs. The world swarms. + </p> + <p> + And then, some miles away a lion roars, the earth and air vibrating to the + sheer power of the sound. The world falls to a blank dead silence. For a + full minute every living creature of the jungle or of the veldt holds its + breath. Their lord has spoken. + </p> + <p> + After dinner we sat in our canvas chairs, smoking. The guard fire in front + of our tent had been lit. On the other side of it stood one of our askaris + leaning on his musket. He and his three companions, turn about, keep the + flames bright against the fiercer creatures. + </p> + <p> + After a time we grew sleepy. I called Saa-sita and entrusted to him my + watch. On the crystal of this I had pasted a small piece of surgeon's + plaster. When the hour hand reached the surgeon's plaster, he must wake us + up. Saa-sita was a very conscientious and careful man. One day I took some + time hitching my pedometer properly to his belt: I could not wear it + effectively myself because I was on horseback. At the end of the ten-hour + march it registered a mile and a fraction. Saa-sita explained that he + wished to take especial care of it, so he had wrapped it in a cloth and + carried it all day in his hand! + </p> + <p> + We turned in. As I reached over to extinguish the lantern I issued my last + command for the day. + </p> + <p> + “Watcha kalele, Saa-sita,” I told the askari; at once he lifted up his + voice to repeat my words. “Watcha kalele!” Immediately from the + Responsible all over camp the word came back-from gunbearers, from + M'ganga, from tent boys-“kalele! kalele! kalele!” + </p> + <p> + Thus commanded, the boisterous fun, the croon of intimate talk, the gently + rising and falling tide of melody fell to complete silence. Only remained + the crackling of the fire and the innumerable voices of the tropical + night. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + VIII. THE RIVER JUNGLE + </h2> + <p> + We camped along this river for several weeks, poking indefinitely and + happily around the country in all directions to see what we could see. + Generally we went together, for neither B. nor myself had been tried out + as yet on dangerous game-those easy rhinos hardly counted-and I think we + both preferred to feel that we had backing until we knew what our nerves + were going to do with us. Nevertheless, occasionally, I would take Memba + Sasa and go out for a little purposeless stroll a few miles up or down + river. Sometimes we skirted the jungle, sometimes we held as near as + possible to the river's bank, sometimes we cut loose and rambled through + the dry, crackling scrub over the low volcanic hills of the arid country + outside. + </p> + <p> + Nothing can equal the intense interest of the most ordinary walk in + Africa. It is the only country I know of where a man is thoroughly and + continuously alive. Often when riding horseback with the dogs in my + California home I have watched them in envy of the keen, alert interest + they took in every stone, stick, and bush, in every sight, sound, and + smell. With equal frequency I have expressed that envy, but as something + unattainable to a human being's more phlegmatic make-up. In Africa one + actually rises to continuous alertness. There are dozy moments-except you + curl up in a safe place for the PURPOSE of dozing; again just like the + dog! Every bush, every hollow, every high tuft of grass, every deep shadow + must be scrutinized for danger. It will not do to pass carelessly any + possible lurking place. At the same time the sense of hearing must be on + guard; so that no break of twig or crash of bough can go unremarked. + Rhinoceroses conceal themselves most cannily, and have a deceitful habit + of leaping from a nap into their swiftest stride. Cobras and puff adders + are scarce, to be sure, but very deadly. Lions will generally give way, if + not shot at or too closely pressed; nevertheless there is always the + chance of cubs or too close a surprise. Buffalo lurk daytimes in the deep + thickets, but occasionally a rogue bull lives where your trail will lead. + These things do not happen often, but in the long run they surely do + happen, and once is quite enough provided the beast gets in. + </p> + <p> + At first this continual alertness and tension is rather exhausting; but + after a very short time it becomes second nature. A sudden rustle the + other side a bush no longer brings you up all standing with your heart in + your throat; but you are aware of it, and you are facing the possible + danger almost before your slower brain has issued any orders to that + effect. + </p> + <p> + In rereading the above, I am afraid that I am conveying the idea that one + here walks under the shadow of continual uneasiness. This is not in the + least so. One enjoys the sun, and the birds and the little things. He + cultivates the great leisure of mind that shall fill the breadth of his + outlook abroad over a newly wonderful world. But underneath it all is the + alertness, the responsiveness to quick reflexes of judgment and action, + the intimate correlations to immediate environment which must characterize + the instincts of the higher animals. And it is good to live these things. + </p> + <p> + Along the edge of that river jungle were many strange and beautiful + affairs. I could slip along among the high clumps of the thicker bushes in + such a manner as to be continually coming around unexpected bends. Of such + maneouvres are surprises made. The graceful red impalla were here very + abundant. I would come on them, their heads up, their great ears flung + forward, their noses twitching in inquiry of something they suspected but + could not fully sense. When slightly alarmed or suspicious the does always + stood compactly in a herd, while the bucks remained discreetly in the + background, their beautiful, branching, widespread horns showing over the + backs of their harems. The impalla is, in my opinion, one of the most + beautiful and graceful of the African bucks, a perpetual delight to watch + either standing or running. These beasts are extraordinarily agile, and + have a habit of breaking their ordinary fast run by unexpectedly leaping + high in the air. At a distance they give somewhat the effect of dolphins + at sea, only their leaps are higher and more nearly perpendicular. Once or + twice I have even seen one jump over the back of another. On another + occasion we saw a herd of twenty-five or thirty cross a road of which, + evidently, they were a little suspicious. We could not find a single hoof + mark in the dust! Generally these beasts frequent thin brush country; but + I have three or four times seen them quite out in the open flat plains, + feeding with the hartebeeste and zebra. They are about the size of our + ordinary deer, are delicately fashioned, and can utter the most + incongruously grotesque of noises by way of calls or ordinary + conversation. + </p> + <p> + The lack of curiosity, or the lack of gallantry, of the impalla bucks was, + in my experience, quite characteristic. They were almost always the + farthest in the background and the first away when danger threatened. The + ladies could look out for themselves. They had no horns to save; and what + do the fool women mean by showing so little sense, anyway! They deserve + what they get! It used to amuse me a lot to observe the utter abandonment + of all responsibility by these handsome gentlemen. When it came time to + depart, they departed. Hang the girls! They trailed along after as fast as + they could. + </p> + <p> + The waterbuck-a fine large beast about the size of our caribou, a + well-conditioned buck resembling in form and attitude the finest of + Landseer's stags-on the other hand, had a little more sense of + responsibility, when he had anything to do with the sex at all. He was + hardly what you might call a strictly domestic character. I have hunted + through a country for several days at a time without seeing a single + mature buck of this species, although there were plenty of does, in herds + of ten to fifty, with a few infants among them just sprouting horns. Then + finally, in some small grassy valley, I would come on the Men's Club. + There they were, ten, twenty, three dozen of them, having the finest kind + of an untramelled masculine time all by themselves. Generally, however, I + will say for them, they took care of their own peoples. There would quite + likely be one big old fellow, his harem of varying numbers, and the + younger subordinate bucks all together in a happy family. When some one of + the lot announced that something was about, and they had all lined up to + stare in the suspected direction, the big buck was there in the foreground + of inquiry. When finally they made me out, it was generally the big buck + who gave the signal. He went first, to be sure, but his going first was + evidently an act of leadership, and not merely a disgraceful desire to get + away before the rest did. + </p> + <p> + But the waterbuck had to yield in turn to the plains gazelles; especially + to the Thompson's gazelle, familiarly-and affectionately-known as the + “Tommy.” He is a quaint little chap, standing only a foot and a half tall + at the shoulder, fawn colour on top, white beneath, with a black, + horizontal stripe on his side, like a chipmunk, most lightly and + gracefully built. When he was first made, somebody told him that unless he + did something characteristic, like waggling his little tail, he was likely + to be mistaken by the undiscriminating for his bigger cousin, the Grant's + gazelle. He has waggled his tail ever since, and so is almost never + mistaken for a Grant's gazelle, even by the undiscriminating. Evidently + his religion is Mohammedan, for he always has a great many wives. He takes + good care of them, however. When danger appears, even when danger + threatens, he is the last to leave the field. Here and there he dashes + frantically, seeing that the women and children get off. And when the herd + tops the hill, Tommy's little horns bring up the rear of the procession. I + like Tommy. He is a cheerful, gallant, quaint little person, with the air + of being quite satisfied with his own solution of this complicated world. + </p> + <p> + Among the low brush at the edge of the river jungle dwelt also the + dik-dik, the tiniest miniature of a deer you could possibly imagine. His + legs are lead pencil size, he stands only about nine inches tall, he + weighs from five to ten pounds; and yet he is a perfect little antelope, + horns and all. I used to see him singly or in pairs standing quite + motionless and all but invisible in the shade of bushes; or leaping + suddenly to his feet and scurrying away like mad through the dry grass. + His personal opinion of me was generally expressed in a loud clear + whistle. But then nobody in this strange country talks the language you + would naturally expect him to talk! Zebra bark, hyenas laugh, impallas + grunt, ostriches boom like drums, leopards utter a plaintive sigh, + hornbills cry like a stage child, bushbucks sound like a cross between a + dog and a squawky toy-and so on. There is only one safe rule of the novice + in Africa: NEVER BELIEVE A WORD THE JUNGLE AND VELDT PEOPLE TELL YOU. + </p> + <p> + These two-the impalla and the waterbuck-were the principal buck we would + see close to the river. Occasionally, however, we came on a few oryx, down + for a drink, beautiful big antelope, with white and black faces, roached + manes, and straight, nearly parallel, rapier horns upward of three feet + long. A herd of these creatures, the light gleaming on their weapons, held + all at the same slant, was like a regiment of bayonets in the sun. And + there were also the rhinoceroses to be carefully espied and avoided. They + lay obliterated beneath the shade of bushes, and arose with a mighty + blow-off of steam. Whereupon we withdrew silently, for we wanted to shoot + no more rhinos, unless we had to. + </p> + <p> + Beneath all these obvious and startling things, a thousand other + interesting matters were afoot. In the mass and texture of the jungle grew + many strange trees and shrubs. One most scrubby, fat and leafless tree, + looking as though it were just about to give up a discouraged existence, + surprised us by putting forth, apparently directly from its bloated wood, + the most wonderful red blossoms. Another otherwise self-respecting tree + hung itself all over with plump bologna sausages about two feet long and + five inches thick. A curious vine hung like a rope, with Turk's-head knots + about a foot apart on its whole length, like the hand-over-hand ropes of + gymnasiums. Other ropes were studded all over with thick blunt bosses, + resembling much the outbreak on one sort of Arts-and-Crafts door: the sort + intended to repel Mail-clad Hosts. + </p> + <p> + The monkeys undoubtedly used such obvious highways through the trees. + These little people were very common. As we walked along, they withdrew + before us. We could make out their figures galloping hastily across the + open places, mounting bushes and stubs to take a satisfying backward look, + clambering to treetops, and launching themselves across the abysses + between limbs. If we went slowly, they retired in silence. If we hurried + at all, they protested in direct ratio to the speed of our advance. And + when later the whole safari, loads on heads, marched inconsiderately + through their jungle! We happened to be hunting on a parallel course a + half mile away, and we could trace accurately the progress of our men by + the outraged shrieks, chatterings, appeals to high heaven for at least + elemental justice to the monkey people. + </p> + <p> + Often, too, we would come on concourses of the big baboons. They certainly + carried on weighty affairs of their own according to a fixed polity. I + never got well enough acquainted with them to master the details of their + government, but it was indubitably built on patriarchal lines. When we + succeeded in approaching without being discovered, we would frequently + find the old men baboons squatting on their heels in a perfect circle, + evidently discussing matters of weight and portent. Seen from a distance, + their group so much resembled the council circles of native warriors that + sometimes, in a native country, we made that mistake. Outside this solemn + council, the women, young men and children went about their daily + business, whatever that was. Up convenient low trees or bushes roosted + sentinels. + </p> + <p> + We never remained long undiscovered. One of the sentinels barked sharply. + At once the whole lot loped away, speedily but with a curious effect of + deliberation. The men folks held their tails in a proud high sideways + arch; the curious youngsters clambered up bushes to take a hasty look; the + babies clung desperately with all four feet to the thick fur on their + mothers' backs; the mothers galloped along imperturbably unheeding of + infantile troubles aloft. The side hill was bewildering with the big + bobbing black forms. + </p> + <p> + In this lower country the weather was hot, and the sun very strong. The + heated air was full of the sounds of insects; some of them comfortable, + like the buzzing of bees, some of them strange and unusual to us. One + cicada had a sustained note, in quality about like that of our own + August-day's friend, but in quantity and duration as the roar of a train + to the gentle hum of a good motor car. Like all cicada noises it did not + usurp the sound world, but constituted itself an underlying basis, so to + speak. And when it stopped the silence seemed to rush in as into a vacuum! + </p> + <p> + We had likewise the aeroplane beetle. He was so big that he would have + made good wing-shooting. His manner of flight was the straight-ahead, + heap-of-buzz, plenty-busy, don't-stop-a-minute-or-you'll-come-down method + of the aeroplane; and he made the same sort of a hum. His first-cousin, + mechanically, was what we called the wind-up-the-watch insect. This + specimen possessed a watch-an old-fashioned Waterbury, evidently-that he + was continually winding. It must have been hard work for the poor chap, + for it sounded like a very big watch. + </p> + <p> + All these things were amusing. So were the birds. The African bird is + quite inclined to be didactic. He believes you need advice, and he means + to give it. To this end he repeats the same thing over and over until he + thinks you surely cannot misunderstand. One chap especially whom we called + the lawyer bird, and who lived in the treetops, had four phrases to + impart. He said them very deliberately, with due pause between each; then + he repeated them rapidly; finally he said them all over again with an + exasperated bearing-down emphasis. The joke of it is I cannot now remember + just how they went! Another feathered pedagogue was continually warning us + to go slow; very good advice near an African jungle. “Poley-poley! + Poley-poley!” he warned again and again; which is good Swahili for + “slowly! slowly!” We always minded him. There were many others, equally + impressed with their own wisdom, but the one I remember with most + amusement was a dilatory person who apparently never got around to his job + until near sunset. Evidently he had contracted to deliver just so many + warnings per diem; and invariably he got so busy chasing insects, enjoying + the sun, gossiping with a friend and generally footling about that the + late afternoon caught him unawares with never a chirp accomplished. So he + sat in a bush and said his say over and over just as fast as he could + without pause for breath or recreation. It was really quite a feat. Just + at dusk, after two hours of gabbling, he would reach the end of his + contracted number. With final relieved chirp he ended. + </p> + <p> + It has been said that African birds are “songless.” This is a careless + statement that can easily be read to mean that African birds are silent. + The writer evidently must have had in mind as a criterion some of our own + or the English great feathered soloists. Certainly the African jungle + seems to produce no individual performers as sustained as our own + bob-o-link, our hermit thrush, or even our common robin. But the African + birds are vocal enough, for all that. Some of them have a richness and + depth of timbre perhaps unequalled elsewhere. Of such is the chime-bird + with his deep double note; or the bell-bird tolling like a cathedral in + the blackness of the forest; or the bottle bird that apparently pours + gurgling liquid gold from a silver jug. As the jungle is exceedingly + populous of these feathered specialists, it follows that the early morning + chorus is wonderful. Africa may not possess the soloists, but its full + orchestrial effects are superb. + </p> + <p> + Naturally under the equator one expects and demands the “gorgeous tropical + plumage” of the books. He is not disappointed. The sun-birds of fifty odd + species, the brilliant blue starlings, the various parrots, the variegated + hornbills, the widower-birds, and dozens of others whose names would mean + nothing flash here and there in the shadow and in the open. With them are + hundreds of quiet little bodies just as interesting to one who likes + birds. From the trees and bushes hang pear-shaped nests plaited + beautifully of long grasses, hard and smooth as hand-made baskets, the + work of the various sorts of weaver-birds. In the tops of the trees + roosted tall marabout storks like dissipated, hairless old club-men in + well-groomed, correct evening dress. + </p> + <p> + And around camp gathered the swift brown kites. They were robbers and + villains, but we could not hate them. All day long they sailed back and + forth spying sharply. When they thought they saw their chance, they + stooped with incredible swiftness to seize a piece of meat. Sometimes they + would snatch their prize almost from the hands of its rightful owner, and + would swoop triumphantly upward again pursued by polyglot maledictions and + a throwing stick. They were very skilful on their wings. I have many times + seen them, while flying, tear up and devour large chunks of meat. It seems + to my inexperience as an aviator rather a nice feat to keep your balance + while tearing with your beak at meat held in your talons. Regardless of + other landmarks, we always knew when we were nearing camp, after one of + our strolls, by the gracefully wheeling figures of our kites. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0009" id="link2H_4_0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + IX. THE FIRST LION + </h2> + <p> + One day we all set out to make our discoveries: F., B., and I with our + gunbearers, Memba Sasa, Mavrouki, and Simba, and ten porters to bring in + the trophies, which we wanted very much, and the meat, which the men + wanted still more. We rode our horses, and the syces followed. This made + quite a field force-nineteen men all told. Nineteen white men would be + exceedingly unlikely to get within a liberal half mile of anything; but + the native has sneaky ways. + </p> + <p> + At first we followed between the river and the low hills, but when the + latter drew back to leave open a broad flat, we followed their line. At + this point they rose to a clifflike headland a hundred and fifty feet + high, flat on top. We decided to investigate that mesa, both for the + possibilities of game, and for the chance of a view abroad. + </p> + <p> + The footing was exceedingly noisy and treacherous, for it was composed of + flat, tinkling little stones. Dried-up, skimpy bushes just higher than our + heads made a thin but regular cover. There seemed not to be a spear of + anything edible, yet we caught the flash of red as a herd of impalla + melted away at our rather noisy approach. Near the foot of the hill we + dismounted, with orders to all the men but the gunbearers to sit down and + make themselves comfortable. Should we need them we could easily either + signal or send word. Then we set ourselves toilsomely to clamber up that + volcanic hill. + </p> + <p> + It was not particularly easy going, especially as we were trying to walk + quietly. You see, we were about to surmount a skyline. Surmounting a + skyline is always most exciting anywhere, for what lies beyond is at once + revealed as a whole and contains the very essence of the unknown; but most + decidedly is this true in Africa. That mesa looked flat, and almost + anything might be grazing or browsing there. So we proceeded gingerly, + with due regard to the rolling of the loose rocks or the tinkling of the + little pebbles. + </p> + <p> + But long before we had reached that alluring skyline we were halted by the + gentle snapping of Mavrouki's fingers. That, strangely enough, is a sound + to which wild animals seem to pay no attention, and is therefore most + useful as a signal. We looked back. The three gunbearers were staring to + the right of our course. About a hundred yards away, on the steep side + hill, and partly concealed by the brush, stood two rhinoceroses. + </p> + <p> + They were side by side, apparently dozing. We squatted on our heels for a + consultation. + </p> + <p> + The obvious thing, as the wind was from them, was to sneak quietly by, + saying nuffin' to nobody. But although we wanted no more rhino, we very + much wanted rhino pictures. A discussion developed no really good reason + why we should not kodak these especial rhinos-except that there were two + of them. So we began to worm our way quietly through the bushes in their + direction. + </p> + <p> + F. and B. deployed on the flanks, their double-barrelled rifles ready for + instant action. I occupied the middle with that dangerous weapon the 3A + kodak. Memba Sasa followed at my elbow, holding my big gun. + </p> + <p> + Now the trouble with modern photography is that it is altogether too + lavish in its depiction of distances. If you do not believe it, take a + picture of a horse at as short a range as twenty-five yards. That equine + will, in the development, have receded to a respectable middle distance. + Therefore it had been agreed that the advance of the battle line was to + cease only when those rhinoceroses loomed up reasonably large in the + finder. I kept looking into the finder, you may be sure. Nearer and nearer + we crept. The great beasts were evidently basking in the sun. Their little + pig eyes alone gave any sign of life. Otherwise they exhibited the + complete immobility of something done in granite. Probably no other beast + impresses one with quite this quality. I suppose it is because even the + little motions peculiar to other animals are with the rhinoceros entirely + lacking. He is not in the least of a nervous disposition, so he does not + stamp his feet nor change his position. It is useless for him to wag his + tail; for, in the first place, the tail is absurdly inadequate; and, in + the second place, flies are not among his troubles. Flies wouldn't bother + you either, if you had a skin two inches thick. So there they stood, inert + and solid as two huge brown rocks, save for the deep, wicked twinkle of + their little eyes. + </p> + <p> + Yes, we were close enough to “see the whites of their eyes,” if they had + had any: and also to be within the range of their limited vision. Of + course we were now stalking, and taking advantage of all the cover. + </p> + <p> + Those rhinoceroses looked to me like two Dreadnaughts. The African + two-horned rhinoceros is a bigger animal anyway than our circus friend, + who generally comes from India. One of these brutes I measured went five + feet nine inches at the shoulder, and was thirteen feet six inches from + bow to stern. Compare these dimensions with your own height and with the + length of your motor car. It is one thing to take on such beasts in the + hurry of surprise, the excitement of a charge, or to stalk up to within a + respectable range of them with a gun at ready. But this deliberate + sneaking up with the hope of being able to sneak away again was a little + too slow and cold-blooded. It made me nervous. I liked it, but I knew at + the time I was going to like it a whole lot better when it was + triumphantly over. + </p> + <p> + We were now within twenty yards (they were standing starboard side on), + and I prepared to get my picture. To do so I would either have to step + quietly out into sight, trusting to the shadow and the slowness of my + movements to escape observation, or hold the camera above the bush, + directing it by guess work. It was a little difficult to decide. I knew + what I OUGHT to do— + </p> + <p> + Without the slightest premonitory warning those two brutes snorted and + whirled in their tracks to stand facing in our direction. After the dead + stillness they made a tremendous row, what with the jerky suddenness of + their movements, their loud snorts, and the avalanche of echoing stones + and boulders they started down the hill. + </p> + <p> + This was the magnificent opportunity. At this point I should boldly have + stepped out from behind my bush, levelled my trusty 3A, and coolly snapped + the beasts, “charging at fifteen yards.” Then, if B.'s and F.'s shots went + absolutely true, or if the brutes didn't happen to smash the camera as + well as me, I, or my executors as the case might be, would have had a fine + picture. + </p> + <p> + But I didn't. I dropped that expensive 3A Special on some hard rocks, and + grabbed my rifle from Memba Sasa. If you want really to know why, go + confront your motor car at fifteen or twenty paces, multiply him by two, + and endow him with an eagerly malicious disposition. + </p> + <p> + They advanced several yards, halted, faced us for perhaps five or six + seconds, uttered snort, whirled with the agility of polo ponies, departed + at a swinging trot and with surprising agility along the steep side hill. + </p> + <p> + I recovered the camera, undamaged, and we continued our climb. + </p> + <p> + The top of the mesa was disappointing as far as game was concerned. It was + covered all over with red stones, round, and as large as a man's head. + Thornbushes found some sort of sustenance in the interstices. + </p> + <p> + But we had gained to a magnificent view. Below us lay the narrow flat, + then the winding jungle of our river, then long rolling desert country, + gray with thorn scrub, sweeping upward to the base of castellated buttes + and one tremendous riven cliff mountain, dropping over the horizon to a + very distant blue range. Behind us eight or ten miles away was the low + ridge through which our journey had come. The mesa on which we stood broke + back at right angles to admit another stream flowing into our own. Beyond + this stream were rolling hills, and scrub country, the hint of blue peaks + and illimitable distances falling away to the unknown Tara Desert and the + sea. + </p> + <p> + There seemed to be nothing much to be gained here, so we made up our minds + to cut across the mesa, and from the other edge of it to overlook the + valley of the tributary river. This we would descend until we came to our + horses. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly we stumbled across a mile or so of those round and rolling + stones. Then we found ourselves overlooking a wide flat or pocket where + the stream valley widened. It extended even as far as the upward fling of + the barrier ranges. Thick scrub covered it, but erratically, so that here + and there were little openings or thin places. We sat down, manned our + trusty prism glasses, and gave ourselves to the pleasing occupation of + looking the country over inch by inch. + </p> + <p> + This is great fun. It is a game a good deal like puzzle pictures. + Re-examination generally develops new and unexpected beasts. We repeated + to each other aloud the results of our scrutiny, always without removing + the glasses from our eyes. + </p> + <p> + “Oryx, one,” said F.; “oryx, two.” + </p> + <p> + “Giraffe,” reported B., “and a herd of impalla.” + </p> + <p> + I saw another giraffe, and another oryx, then two rhinoceroses. + </p> + <p> + The three bearers squatted on their heels behind us, their fierce eyes + staring straight ahead, seeing with the naked eye what we were finding + with six-power glasses. + </p> + <p> + We turned to descend the hill. In the very centre of the deep shade of a + clump of trees, I saw the gleam of a waterbuck's horns. While I was + telling of this, the beast stepped from his concealment, trotted a short + distance upstream and turned to climb a little ridge parallel to that by + which we were descending. About halfway up he stopped, staring in our + direction, his head erect, the slight ruff under his neck standing + forward. He was a good four hundred yards away. B., who wanted him, + decided the shot too chancy. He and F. slipped backward until they had + gained the cover of the little ridge, then hastened down the bed of the + ravine. Their purpose was to follow the course already taken by the + waterbuck until they should have sneaked within better range. In the + meantime I and the gunbearers sat down in full view of the buck. This was + to keep his attention distracted. + </p> + <p> + We sat there a long time. The buck never moved but continued to stare at + what evidently puzzled him. Time passes very slowly in such circumstances, + and it seemed incredible that the beast should continue much longer to + hold his fixed attitude. Nevertheless B. and F. were working hard. We + caught glimpses of them occasionally slipping from bush to bush. Finally + B. knelt and levelled his rifle. At once I turned my glasses on the buck. + Before the sound of the rifle had reached me, I saw him start + convulsively, then make off at the tearing run that indicates a heart hit. + A moment later the crack of the rifle and the dull plunk of the hitting + bullet struck my ear. + </p> + <p> + We tracked him fifty yards to where he lay dead. He was a fine trophy, and + we at once set the boys to preparing it and taking the meat. In the + meantime we sauntered down to look at the stream. It was a small rapid + affair, but in heavy papyrus, with sparse trees, and occasional thickets, + and dry hard banks. The papyrus should make a good lurking place for + almost anything; but the few points of access to the water failed to show + many interesting tracks. Nevertheless we decided to explore a short + distance. + </p> + <p> + For an hour we walked among high thornbushes, over baking hot earth. We + saw two or three dik-dik and one of the giraffes. At that time it had + become very hot, and the sun was bearing down on us as with the weight of + a heavy hand. The air had the scorching, blasting quality of an opened + furnace door. Our mouths were getting dry and sticky in that peculiar + stage of thirst on which no luke-warm canteen water in necessarily limited + quantity has any effect. So we turned back, picked up the men with the + waterbuck, and plodded on down the little stream, or, rather, on the + red-hot dry valley bottom outside the stream's course, to where the syces + were waiting with our horses. We mounted with great thankfulness. It was + now eleven o'clock, and we considered our day as finished. + </p> + <p> + The best way for a distance seemed to follow the course of the tributary + stream to its point of junction with our river. We rode along, rather + relaxed in the suffocating heat. F. was nearest the stream. At one point + it freed itself of trees and brush and ran clear, save for low papyrus, + ten feet down below a steep eroded bank. F. looked over and uttered a + startled exclamation. I spurred my horse forward to see. + </p> + <p> + Below us, about fifteen yards away, was the carcass of a waterbuck half + hidden in the foot-high grass. A lion and two lionesses stood upon it, + staring up at us with great yellow eyes. That picture is a very vivid one + in my memory, for those were the first wild lions I had ever seen. My most + lively impression was of their unexpected size. They seemed to bulk fully + a third larger than my expectation. + </p> + <p> + The magnificent beasts stood only long enough to see clearly what had + disturbed them, then turned, and in two bounds had gained the shelter of + the thicket. + </p> + <p> + Now the habit in Africa is to let your gunbearers carry all your guns. You + yourself stride along hand free. It is an English idea, and is pretty + generally adopted out there by every one, of whatever nationality. They + will explain it to you by saying that in such a climate a man should do + only necessary physical work, and that a good gunbearer will get a weapon + into your hand so quickly and in so convenient a position that you will + lose no time. I acknowledge the gunbearers are sometimes very skilful at + this, but I do deny that there is no loss of time. The instant of + distracted attention while receiving a weapon, the necessity of + recollecting the nervous correlations after the transfer, very often mark + just the difference between a sure instinctive snapshot and a lost + opportunity. It reasons that the man with the rifle in his hand reacts + instinctively, in one motion, to get his weapon into play. If the + gunbearer has the gun, HE must first react to pass it up, the master must + receive it properly, and THEN, and not until then, may go on from where + the other man began. As for physical labour in the tropics: if a grown man + cannot without discomfort or evil effects carry an eight-pound rifle, he + is too feeble to go out at all. In a long Western experience I have + learned never to be separated from my weapon; and I believe the + continuance of this habit in Africa saved me a good number of chances. + </p> + <p> + At any rate, we all flung ourselves off our horses. I, having my rifle in + my hand, managed to throw a shot after the biggest lion as he vanished. It + was a snap at nothing, and missed. Then in an opening on the edge a + hundred yards away appeared one of the lionesses. She was trotting slowly, + and on her I had time to draw a hasty aim. At the shot she bounded high in + the air, fell, rolled over, and was up and into the thicket before I had + much more than time to pump up another shell from the magazine. Memba Sasa + in his eagerness got in the way-the first and last time he ever made a + mistake in the field. + </p> + <p> + By this time the others had got hold of their weapons. We fronted the + blank face of the thicket. + </p> + <p> + The wounded animal would stand a little waiting. We made a wide circle to + the other side of the stream. There we quickly picked up the trail of the + two uninjured beasts. They had headed directly over the hill, where we + speedily lost all trace of them on the flint-like surface of the ground. + We saw a big pack of baboons in the only likely direction for a lion to + go. Being thus thrown back on a choice of a hundred other unlikely + directions, we gave up that slim chance and returned to the thicket. + </p> + <p> + This proved to be a very dense piece of cover. Above the height of the + waist the interlocking branches would absolutely prevent any progress, but + by stooping low we could see dimly among the simpler main stems to a + distance of perhaps fifteen or twenty feet. This combination at once + afforded the wounded lioness plenty of cover in which to hide, plenty of + room in which to charge home, and placed us under the disadvantage of a + crouched or crawling attitude with limited vision. We talked the matter + over very thoroughly. There was only one way to get that lioness out; and + that was to go after her. The job of going after her needed some planning. + The lion is cunning and exceeding fierce. A flank attack, once we were in + the thicket, was as much to be expected as a frontal charge. + </p> + <p> + We advanced to the thicket's edge with many precautions. To our relief we + found she had left us a definite trail. B. and I kneeling took up + positions on either side, our rifles ready. F. and Simba crawled by inches + eight or ten feet inside the thicket. Then, having executed this manoeuvre + safely, B. moved up to protect our rear while I, with Memba Sasa, slid + down to join F. + </p> + <p> + From this point we moved forward alternately. I would crouch, all alert, + my rifle ready, while F. slipped by me and a few feet ahead. Then he get + organized for battle while I passed him. Memba Sasa and Simba, game as + badgers, their fine eyes gleaming with excitement, their faces shining, + crept along at the rear. B. knelt outside the thicket, straining his eyes + for the slightest movement either side of the line of our advance. Often + these wily animals will sneak back in a half circle to attack their + pursuers from behind. Two or three of the bolder porters crouched + alongside B., peering eagerly. The rest had quite properly retired to the + safe distance where the horses stood. + </p> + <p> + We progressed very, very slowly. Every splash of light or mottled shadow, + every clump of bush stems, every fallen log had to be examined, and then + examined again. And how we did strain our eyes in a vain attempt to + penetrate the half lights, the duskinesses of the closed-in thicket not + over fifteen feet away! And then the movement forward of two feet would + bring into our field of vision an entirely new set of tiny vistas and + possible lurking places. + </p> + <p> + Speaking for myself, I was keyed up to a tremendous tension. I stared + until my eyes ached; every muscle and nerve was taut. Everything depended + on seeing the beast promptly, and firing quickly. With the manifest + advantage of being able to see us, she would spring to battle fully + prepared. A yellow flash and a quick shot seemed about to size up that + situation. Every few moments, I remember, I surreptitiously held out my + hand to see if the constantly growing excitement and the long-continued + strain had affected its steadiness. + </p> + <p> + The combination of heat and nervous strain was very exhausting. The sweat + poured from me; and as F. passed me I saw the great drops standing out on + his face. My tongue got dry, my breath came laboriously. Finally I began + to wonder whether physically I should be able to hold out. We had been + crawling, it seemed, for hours. I dared not look back, but we must have + come a good quarter mile. Finally F. stopped. + </p> + <p> + “I'm all in for water,” he gasped in a whisper. + </p> + <p> + Somehow that confession made me feel a lot better. I had thought that I + was the only one. Cautiously we settled back on our heels. Memba Sasa and + Simba wiped the sweat from their faces. It seemed that they too had found + the work severe. That cheered me up still more. + </p> + <p> + Simba grinned at us, and, worming his way backward with the sinuousity of + a snake, he disappeared in the direction from which we had come. F. cursed + after him in a whisper both for departing and for taking the risk. But in + a moment he had returned carrying two canteens of blessed water. We took a + drink most gratefully. + </p> + <p> + I glanced at my watch. It was just under two hours since I had fired my + shot. I looked back. My supposed quarter mile had shrunk to not over fifty + feet! + </p> + <p> + After resting a few moments longer, we again took up our systematic + advance. We made perhaps another fifty feet. We were ascending a very + gentle slope. F. was for the moment ahead. Right before us the lion + growled; a deep rumbling like the end of a great thunder roll, fathoms and + fathoms deep, with the inner subterranean vibrations of a heavy train of + cars passing a man inside a sealed building. At the same moment over F.'s + shoulder I saw a huge yellow head rise up, the round eyes flashing anger, + the small black-tipped ears laid back, the great fangs snarling. The beast + was not over twelve feet distant. F. immediately fired. His shot, hitting + an intervening twig, went wild. With the utmost coolness he immediately + pulled the other trigger of his double barrel. The cartridge snapped. + </p> + <p> + “If you will kindly stoop down-” said I, in what I now remember to be + rather an exaggeratedly polite tone. As F.'s head disappeared, I placed + the little gold bead of my 405 Winchester where I thought it would do the + most good, and pulled trigger. She rolled over dead. + </p> + <p> + The whole affair had begun and finished with unbelievable swiftness. From + the growl to the fatal shot I don't suppose four seconds elapsed, for our + various actions had followed one another with the speed of the + instinctive. The lioness had growled at our approach, had raised her head + to charge, and had received her deathblow before she had released her + muscles in the spring. There had been no time to get frightened. + </p> + <p> + We sat back for a second. A brown hand reached over my shoulder. + </p> + <p> + “Mizouri-mizouri sana!” cried Memba Sasa joyously. I shook the hand. + </p> + <p> + “Good business!” said F. “Congratulate you on your first lion.” + </p> + <p> + We then remembered B., and shouted to him that all was over. He and the + other men wriggled in to where we were lying. He made this distance in + about fifteen seconds. It had taken us nearly an hour. + </p> + <p> + We had the lioness dragged out into the open. She was not an especially + large beast, as compared to most of the others I killed later, but at that + time she looked to me about as big as they made them. As a matter of fact + she was quite big enough, for she stood three feet two inches at the + shoulder-measure that against the wall-and was seven feet and six inches + in length. My first bullet had hit her leg, and the last had reached her + heart. + </p> + <p> + Every one shook me by the hand. The gunbearers squatted about the carcass, + skilfully removing the skin to an undertone of curious crooning that every + few moments broke out into one or two bars of a chant. As the body was + uncovered, the men crouched about to cut off little pieces of fat. These + they rubbed on their foreheads and over their chests, to make them brave, + they said, and cunning, like the lion. + </p> + <p> + We remounted and took up our interrupted journey to camp. It was a little + after two, and the heat was at its worst. We rode rather sleepily, for the + reaction from the high tension of excitement had set in. Behind us marched + the three gunbearers, all abreast, very military and proud. Then came the + porters in single file, the one carrying the folded lion skin leading the + way; those bearing the waterbuck trophy and meat bringing up the rear. + They kept up an undertone of humming in a minor key; occasionally breaking + into a short musical phrase in full voice. + </p> + <p> + We rode an hour. The camp looked very cool and inviting under its wide + high trees, with the river slipping by around the islands of papyrus. A + number of black heads bobbed about in the shallows. The small fires sent + up little wisps of smoke. Around them our boys sprawled, playing simple + games, mending, talking, roasting meat. Their tiny white tents gleamed + pleasantly among the cool shadows. + </p> + <p> + I had thought of riding nonchalantly up to our own tents, of dismounting + with a careless word of greeting— + </p> + <p> + “Oh, yes,” I would say, “we did have a good enough day. Pretty hot. Roy + got a fine waterbuck. Yes, I got a lion.” (Tableau on part of Billy.) + </p> + <p> + But Memba Sasa used up all the nonchalance there was. As we entered camp + he remarked casually to the nearest man. + </p> + <p> + “Bwana na piga simba-the master has killed a lion.” + </p> + <p> + The man leaped to his feet. + </p> + <p> + “Simba! simba! simba!” he yelled. “Na piga simba!” + </p> + <p> + Every one in camp also leaped to his feet, taking up the cry. From the + water it was echoed as the bathers scrambled ashore. The camp broke into + pandemonium. We were surrounded by a dense struggling mass of men. They + reached up scores of black hands to grasp my own; they seized from me + everything portable and bore it in triumph before me-my water bottle, my + rifle, my camera, my whip, my field glasses, even my hat, everything that + was detachable. Those on the outside danced and lifted up their voices in + song, improvised for the most part, and in honor of the day's work. In a + vast swirling, laughing, shouting, triumphant mob we swept through the + camp to where Billy-by now not very much surprised-was waiting to get the + official news. By the measure of this extravagant joy could we gauge what + the killing of a lion means to these people who have always lived under + the dread of his rule. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0010" id="link2H_4_0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + X. LIONS + </h2> + <p> + A very large lion I killed stood three feet and nine inches at the + withers, and of course carried his head higher than that. The top of the + table at which I sit is only two feet three inches from the floor. Coming + through the door at my back that lion's head would stand over a foot + higher than halfway up. Look at your own writing desk; your own door. + Furthermore, he was nine feet and eleven inches in a straight line from + nose to end of tail, or over eleven feet along the contour of the back. If + he were to rise on his hind feet to strike a man down, he would stand + somewhere between seven and eight feet tall, depending on how nearly he + straightened up. He weighed just under six hundred pounds, or as much as + four well-grown specimens of our own “mountain lion.” I tell you this that + you may realize, as I did not, the size to which a wild lion grows. Either + menagerie specimens are stunted in growth, or their position and + surroundings tend to belittle them, for certainly until a man sees old Leo + in the wilderness he has not understood what a fine old chap he is. + </p> + <p> + This tremendous weight is sheer strength. A lion's carcass when the skin + is removed is a really beautiful sight. The great muscles lie in ropes and + bands; the forearm thicker than a man's leg, the lithe barrel banded with + brawn; the flanks overlaid by the long thick muscles. And this power is + instinct with the nervous force of a highly organized being. The lion is + quick and intelligent and purposeful; so that he brings to his intenser + activities the concentration of vivid passion, whether of anger, of hunger + or of desire. + </p> + <p> + So far the opinions of varied experience will jog along together. At this + point they diverge. + </p> + <p> + Just as the lion is one of the most interesting and fascinating of beasts, + so concerning him one may hear the most diverse opinions. This man will + tell you that any lion is always dangerous. Another will hold the king of + beasts in the most utter contempt as a coward and a skulker. + </p> + <p> + In the first place, generalization about any species of animal is an + exceedingly dangerous thing. I believe that, in the case of the higher + animals at least, the differences in individual temperament are quite + likely to be more numerous than the specific likenesses. Just as + individual men are bright or dull, nervous or phlegmatic, cowardly or + brave, so individual animals vary in like respect. Our own hunters will + recall from their personal experiences how the big bear may have sat down + and bawled harmlessly for mercy, while the little unconsidered fellow did + his best until finished off: how one buck dropped instantly to a wound + that another would carry five miles: how of two equally matched warriors + of the herd one will give way in the fight, while still uninjured, before + his perhaps badly wounded antagonist. The casual observer might-and often + does-say that all bears are cowardly, all bucks are easily killed, or the + reverse, according as the god of chance has treated him to one spectacle + or the other. As well try to generalize on the human race-as is a certain + ecclesiastical habit-that all men are vile or noble, dishonest or upright, + wise or foolish. + </p> + <p> + The higher we go in the scale the truer this individualism holds. We are + forced to reason not from the bulk of observations, but from their + averages. If we find ten bucks who will go a mile wounded to two who + succumb in their tracks from similar hurts, we are justified in saying + tentatively that the species is tenacious of life. But as experience + broadens we may modify that statement; for strange indeed are runs of + luck. + </p> + <p> + For this reason a good deal of the wise conclusion we read in sportsmen's + narratives is worth very little. Few men have experience enough with lions + to rise to averages through the possibilities of luck. ESPECIALLY is this + true of lions. No beast that roams seems to go more by luck than felis + leo. Good hunters may search for years without seeing hide nor hair of one + of the beasts. Selous, one of the greatest, went to East Africa for the + express purpose of getting some of the fine beasts there, hunted six weeks + and saw none. Holmes of the Escarpment has lived in the country six years, + has hunted a great deal and has yet to kill his first. One of the railroad + officials has for years gone up and down the Uganda Railway on his + handcar, his rifle ready in hopes of the lion that never appeared; though + many are there seen by those with better fortune. Bronson hunted + desperately for this great prize, but failed. Rainsford shot no lions his + first trip, and ran into them only three years later. Read Abel Chapman's + description of his continued bad luck at even seeing the beasts. + MacMillan, after five years' unbroken good fortune, has in the last two + years failed to kill a lion, although he has made many trips for the + purpose. F. told me he followed every rumour of a lion for two years + before he got one. Again, one may hear the most marvellous of yarns the + other way about-of the German who shot one from the train on the way up + from Mombasa; of the young English tenderfoot who, the first day out, came + on three asleep, across a river, and potted the lot; and so on. The point + is, that in the case of lions the element of sheer chance seems to begin + earlier and last longer than is the case with any other beast. And, you + must remember, experience must thrust through the luck element to the + solid ground of averages before it can have much value in the way of + generalization. Before he has reached that solid ground, a man's opinions + depend entirely on what kind of lions he chances to meet, in what + circumstances, and on how matters happen to shape in the crowded moments. + </p> + <p> + But though lack of sufficiently extended experience has much to do with + these decided differences of opinion, I believe that misapprehension has + also its part. The sportsman sees lions on the plains. Likewise the lions + see him, and promptly depart to thick cover or rocky butte. He comes on + them in the scrub; they bound hastily out of sight. He may even meet them + face to face, but instead of attacking him, they turn to right and left + and make off in the long grass. When he follows them, they sneak cunningly + away. If, added to this, he has the good luck to kill one or two stone + dead at a single shot each, he begins to think there is not much in lion + shooting after all, and goes home proclaiming the king of beasts a + skulking coward. + </p> + <p> + After all, on what grounds does he base this conclusion? In what way have + circumstances been a test of courage at all? The lion did not stand and + fight, to be sure; but why should he? What was there in it for lions? + Behind any action must a motive exist. Where is the possible motive for + any lion to attack on sight? He does not-except in unusual cases-eat men; + nothing has occurred to make him angry. The obvious thing is to avoid + trouble, unless there is a good reason to seek it. In that one evidences + the lion's good sense, but not his lack of courage. That quality has not + been called upon at all. + </p> + <p> + But if the sportsman had done one of two or three things, I am quite sure + he would have had a taste of our friend's mettle. If he had shot at and + even grazed the beast; if he had happened upon him where an exit was not + obvious; or IF HE HAD EVEN FOLLOWED THE LION UNTIL THE LATTER HAD BECOME + TIRED OF THE ANNOYANCE, he would very soon have discovered that Leo is not + all good nature, and that once on his courage will take him in against any + odds. Furthermore, he may be astonished and dismayed to discover that of a + group of several lions, two or three besides the wounded animal are quite + likely to take up the quarrel and charge too. In other words, in my + opinion, the lion avoids trouble when he can, not from cowardice but from + essential indolence or good nature; but does not need to be cornered* to + fight to the death when in his mind his dignity is sufficiently assailed. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * This is an important distinction in estimating the inherent + courage of man or beast. Even a mouse will fight when + cornered. +</pre> + <p> + For of all dangerous beasts the lion, when once aroused, will alone face + odds to the end. The rhinoceros, the elephant, and even the buffalo can + often be turned aside by a shot. A lion almost always charges home.* + Slower and slower he comes, as the bullets strike; but he comes, until at + last he may be just hitching himself along, his face to the enemy, his + fierce spirit undaunted. When finally he rolls over, he bites the earth in + great mouthfuls; and so passes fighting to the last. The death of a lion + is a fine sight. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * I seem to be generalizing here, but all these conclusions + must be understood to take into consideration the liability + of individual variation. +</pre> + <p> + No, I must confess, to me the lion is an object of great respect; and so, + I gather, he is to all who have had really extensive experience. Those + like Leslie Tarleton, Lord Delamere, W. N. MacMillan, Baron von Bronsart, + the Hills, Sir Alfred Pease, who are great lion men, all concede to the + lion a courage and tenacity unequalled by any other living beast. My own + experience is of course nothing as compared to that of these men. Yet I + saw in my nine months afield seventy-one lions. None of these offered to + attack when unwounded or not annoyed. On the other hand, only one turned + tail once the battle was on, and she proved to be a three quarters grown + lioness, sick and out of condition. + </p> + <p> + It is of course indubitable that where lions have been much shot they + become warier in the matter of keeping out of trouble. They retire to + cover earlier in the morning, and they keep more than a perfunctory + outlook for the casual human being. When hunters first began to go into + the Sotik the lions there would stand imperturbable, staring at the + intruder with curiosity or indifference. Now they have learned that such + performances are not healthy-and they have probably satisfied their + curiosity. But neither in the Sotik, nor even in the plains around Nairobi + itself, does the lion refuse the challenge once it has been put up to him + squarely. Nor does he need to be cornered. He charges in quite blithely + from the open plain, once convinced that you are really an annoyance. + </p> + <p> + As to habits! The only sure thing about a lion is his originality. He has + more exceptions to his rules than the German language. Men who have been + mighty lion hunters for many years, and who have brought to their hunting + close observation, can only tell you what a lion MAY do in certain + circumstances. Following very broad principles, they may even predict what + he is APT to do, but never what he certainly WILL do. That is one thing + that makes lion hunting interesting. + </p> + <p> + In general, then, the lion frequents that part of the country where feed + the great game herds. From them he takes his toll by night, retiring + during the day into the shallow ravines, the brush patches, or the rocky + little buttes. I have, however, seen lions miles from game, slumbering + peacefully atop an ant hill. Indeed, occasionally, a pack of lions likes + to live high in the tall-grass ridges where every hunt will mean for them + a four- or five-mile jaunt out and back again. He needs water, after + feeding, and so rarely gets farther than eight or ten miles from that + necessity. + </p> + <p> + He hunts at night. This is as nearly invariable a rule as can be + formulated in regard to lions. Yet once, and perhaps twice, I saw + lionesses stalking through tall grass as early as three o'clock in the + afternoon. This eagerness may, or may not, have had to do with the + possession of hungry cubs. The lion's customary harmlessness in the + daytime is best evidenced, however, by the comparative indifference of the + game to his presence then. From a hill we watched three of these beasts + wandering leisurely across the plains below. A herd of kongonis feeding + directly in their path, merely moved aside right and left, quite + deliberately, to leave a passage fifty yards or so wide, but otherwise + paid not the slightest attention. I have several times seen this incident, + or a modification of it. And yet, conversely, on a number of occasions we + have received our first intimation of the presence of lions by the wild + stampeding of the game away from a certain spot. + </p> + <p> + However, the most of his hunting is done by dark. Between the hours of + sundown and nine o'clock he and his comrades may be heard uttering the + deep coughing grunt typical of this time of night. These curious, short, + far-sounding calls may be mere evidences of intention, or they may be a + sort of signal by means of which the various hunters keep in touch. After + a little they cease. Then one is quite likely to hear the petulant, + alarmed barking of zebra, or to feel the vibrations of many hoofs. There + is a sense of hurried, flurried uneasiness abroad on the veldt. + </p> + <p> + The lion generally springs on his prey from behind or a little off the + quarter. By the impetus his own weight he hurls his victim forward, + doubling its head under, and very neatly breaking its neck. I have never + seen this done, but the process has been well observed and attested; and + certainly, of the many hundreds of lion kills I have taken the pains to + inspect, the majority had had their necks broken. Sometimes, but + apparently more rarely, the lion kills its prey by a bite in the back of + the neck. I have seen zebra killed in this fashion, but never any of the + buck. It may be possible that the lack of horns makes it more difficult to + break a zebra's neck because of the corresponding lack of leverage when + its head hits the ground sidewise; the instances I have noted may have + been those in which the lion's spring landed too far back to throw the + victim properly; or perhaps they were merely examples of the great + variability in the habits of felis leo. + </p> + <p> + Once the kill is made, the lion disembowels the beast very neatly indeed, + and drags the entrails a few feet out of the way. He then eats what he + wants, and, curiously enough, seems often to be very fond of the skin. In + fact, lacking other evidence, it is occasionally possible to identify a + kill as being that of a lion by noticing whether any considerable portion + of the hide has been devoured. After eating he drinks. Then he is likely + to do one of two things: either he returns to cover near the carcass and + lies down, or he wanders slowly and with satisfaction toward his happy + home. In the latter case the hyenas, jackals, and carrion birds seize + their chance. The astute hunter can often diagnose the case by the general + actions and demeanour of these camp followers. A half dozen sour and + disgusted looking hyenas seated on their haunches at scattered intervals, + and treefuls of mournfully humpbacked vultures sunk in sadness, indicate + that the lion has decided to save the rest of his zebra until to-morrow + and is not far away. On the other hand, a grand flapping, snarling + Kilkenny-fair of an aggregation swirling about one spot in the grass means + that the principal actor has gone home. + </p> + <p> + It is ordinarily useless to expect to see the lion actually on his prey. + The feeding is done before dawn, after which the lion enjoys stretching + out in the open until the sun is well up, and then retiring to the nearest + available cover. Still, at the risk of seeming to be perpetually + qualifying, I must instance finding three lions actually on the stale + carcass of a waterbuck at eleven o'clock in the morning of a piping hot + day! In an undisturbed country, or one not much hunted, the early morning + hours up to say nine o'clock are quite likely to show you lions sauntering + leisurely across the open plains toward their lairs. They go a little, + stop a little, yawn, sit down a while, and gradually work their way home. + At those times you come upon them unexpectedly face to face, or, seeing + them from afar, ride them down in a glorious gallop. Where the country has + been much hunted, however, the lion learns to abandon his kill and seek + shelter before daylight, and is almost never seen abroad. Then one must + depend on happening upon him in his cover. + </p> + <p> + In the actual hunting of his game the lion is apparently very clever. He + understands the value of cooperation. Two or more will manoeuvre very + skilfully to give a third the chance to make an effective spring; + whereupon the three will share the kill. In a rough country, or one + otherwise favourable to the method, a pack of lions will often + deliberately drive game into narrow ravines or cul de sacs where the + killers are waiting. + </p> + <p> + At such times the man favoured by the chance of an encampment within five + miles or so can hear a lion's roar. + </p> + <p> + Otherwise I doubt if he is apt often to get the full-voiced, genuine + article. The peculiar questioning cough of early evening is resonant and + deep in vibration, but it is a call rather than a roar. No lion is fool + enough to make a noise when he is stalking. Then afterward, when full fed, + individuals may open up a few times, but only a few times, in sheer + satisfaction, apparently, at being well fed. The menagerie row at feeding + time, formidable as it sounds within the echoing walls, is only a mild and + gentle hint. But when seven or eight lions roar merely to see how much + noise they can make, as when driving game, or trying to stampede your oxen + on a wagon trip, the effect is something tremendous. The very substance of + the ground vibrates; the air shakes. I can only compare it to the effect + of a very large deep organ in a very small church. There is something + genuinely awe-inspiring about it; and when the repeated volleys rumble + into silence, one can imagine the veldt crouched in a rigid terror that + shall endure. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0011" id="link2H_4_0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XI. LIONS AGAIN + </h2> + <p> + As to the dangers of lion hunting it is also difficult to write. There is + no question that a cool man, using good judgment as to just what he can or + cannot do, should be able to cope with lion situations. The modern rifle + is capable of stopping the beast, provided the bullet goes to the right + spot. The right spot is large enough to be easy to hit, if the shooter + keeps cool. Our definition of a cool man must comprise the elements of + steady nerves under super-excitement, the ability to think quickly and + clearly, and the mildly strategic quality of being able to make the best + use of awkward circumstances. Such a man, barring sheer accidents, should + be able to hunt lions with absolute certainty for just as long as he does + not get careless, slipshod or over-confident. Accidents-real accidents, + not merely unexpected happenings-are hardly to be counted. They can occur + in your own house. + </p> + <p> + But to the man not temperamentally qualified, lion shooting is dangerous + enough. The lion, when he takes the offensive, intends to get his + antagonist. Having made up his mind to that, he charges home, generally at + great speed. The realization that it is the man's life or the beast's is + disconcerting. Also the charging lion is a spectacle much more + awe-inspiring in reality than the most vivid imagination can predict. He + looks very large, very determined, and has uttered certain rumbling, + blood-curdling threats as to what he is going to do about it. It suddenly + seems most undesirable to allow that lion to come any closer, not even an + inch! A hasty, nervous shot misses— + </p> + <p> + An unwounded lion charging from a distance is said to start rather slowly, + and to increase his pace only as he closes. Personally I have never been + charged by an unwounded beast, but I can testify that the wounded animal + comes very fast. Cuninghame puts the rate at about seven seconds to the + hundred yards. Certainly I should say that a man charged from fifty yards + or so would have little chance for a second shot, provided he missed the + first. A hit seemed, in my experience, to the animal, by sheer force of + impact, long enough to permit me to throw in another cartridge. A lioness + thus took four frontal bullets starting at about sixty yards. An initial + miss would probably have permitted her to close. + </p> + <p> + Here, as can be seen, is a great source of danger to a flurried or nervous + beginner. He does not want that lion to get an inch nearer; he fires at + too long a range, misses, and is killed or mauled before he can reload. + This happened precisely so to two young friends of MacMillan. They were + armed with double-rifles, let them off hastily as the beast started at + them from two hundred yards, and never got another chance. If they had + possessed the experience to have waited until the lion had come within + fifty yards they would have had the almost certainty of four barrels at + close range. Though I have seen a lion missed clean well inside those + limits. + </p> + <p> + From such performances are so-called lion accidents built. During my stay + in Africa I heard of six white men being killed by lions, and a number of + others mauled. As far as possible I tried to determine the facts of each + case. In every instance the trouble followed either foolishness or loss of + nerve. I believe I should be quite safe in saying that from identically + the same circumstances any of the good lion men-Tarleton, Lord Delamere, + the Hills, and others-would have extricated themselves unharmed. + </p> + <p> + This does not mean that accidents may not happen. Rifles jam, but + generally because of flurried manipulation! One may unexpectedly meet the + lion at too close quarters; a foot may slip, or a cartridge prove + defective. So may one fall downstairs or bump one's head in the dark. + Sufficient forethought and alertness and readiness would go far in either + case to prevent bad results. + </p> + <p> + The wounded beast, of course, offers the most interesting problem to the + lion hunter. If it sees the hunter, it is likely to charge him at once. If + hit while making off, however, it is more apt to take cover. Then one must + summon all his good sense and nerve to get it out. No rules can be given + for this; nor am I trying to write a text book for lion hunters. Any good + lion hunter knows a lot more about it than I do. But always a man must + keep in mind three things: that a lion can hide in cover so short that it + seems to the novice as though a jack-rabbit would find scant concealment + there; that he charges like lightning, and that he can spring about + fifteen feet. This spring, coming unexpectedly from an unseen beast, is + about impossible to avoid. Sheer luck may land a fatal shot; but even then + the lion will probably do his damage before he dies. The rush from a short + distance a good quick shot ought to be able to cope with. + </p> + <p> + Therefore the wise hunter assures himself of at least twenty + feet-preferably more-of neutral zone all about him. No matter how long it + takes, he determines absolutely that the lion is not within that distance. + The rest is alertness and quickness. + </p> + <p> + As I have said, the amount of cover necessary to conceal a lion is + astonishingly small. He can flatten himself out surprisingly; and his + tawny colour blends so well with the brown grasses that he is practically + invisible. A practised man does not, of course, look for lions at all. He + is after unusual small patches, especially the black ear tips or the black + of the mane. Once guessed at, it is interesting to see how quickly the + hitherto unsuspected animal sketches itself out in the cover. + </p> + <p> + I should, before passing on to another aspect of the matter, mention the + dangerous poisons carried by the lion's claws. Often men have died from + the most trivial surface wounds. The grooves of the claws carry putrefying + meat from the kills. Every sensible man in a lion country carries a small + syringe, and either permanganate or carbolic. And those mild little + remedies he uses full strength! + </p> + <p> + The great and overwhelming advantage is of course with the hunter. He + possesses as deadly a weapon: and that weapon will kill at a distance. + This is proper, I think. There are more lions than hunters; and, from our + point of view, the man is more important than the beast. The game is not + too hazardous. By that I mean that, barring sheer accident, a man is sure + to come out all right provided he does accurately the right thing. In + other words, it is a dangerous game of skill, but it does not possess the + blind danger of a forest in a hurricane, say. Furthermore, it is a game + that no man need play unless he wants to. In the lion country he may go + about his business-daytime business-as though he were home at the farm. + </p> + <p> + Such being the case, may I be pardoned for intruding one of my own small + ethical ideas at this point, with the full realization that it depends + upon an entirely personal point of view. As far as my own case goes, I + consider it poor sportsmanship ever to refuse a lion-chance merely because + the advantages are not all in my favour. After all, lion hunting is on a + different plane from ordinary shooting: it is a challenge to war, a + deliberate seeking for mortal combat. Is it not just a little shameful to + pot old felis leo at long range, in the open, near his kill, and wherever + we have him at an advantage-nine times, and then to back out because that + advantage is for once not so marked? I have so often heard the phrase, “I + let him (or them) alone. It was not good enough,” meaning that the game + looked a little risky. + </p> + <p> + Do not misunderstand. I am not advising that you bull ahead into the long + grass, or that alone you open fire on a half dozen lions in easy range. + Kind providence endowed you with strategy, and certainly you should never + go in where there is no show for you to use your weapon effectively. But + occasionally the odds will be against you and you will be called upon to + take more or less of a chance. I do not think it is quite square to quit + playing merely because for once your opponent has been dealt the better + cards. If here are too many of them see if you cannot manoeuvre them; if + the grass is long, try every means in your power to get them out. Stay + with them. If finally you fail, you will at least have the satisfaction of + knowing that circumstances alone have defeated you. If you do not like + that sort of a game, stay out of it entirely. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0012" id="link2H_4_0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XII. MORE LIONS + </h2> + <p> + Nor do the last remarks of the preceding chapter mean that you shall not + have your trophy in peace. Perhaps excitement and a slight doubt as to + whether or not you are going to survive do not appeal to you; but + nevertheless you would like a lion skin or so. By all means shoot one + lion, or two, or three in the safest fashion you can. But after that you + ought to play the game. + </p> + <p> + The surest way to get a lion is to kill a zebra, cut holes in him, fill + the holes with strychnine, and come back next morning. This method is + absolutely safe. + </p> + <p> + The next safest way is to follow the quarry with a pack of especially + trained dogs. The lion is so busy and nervous over those dogs that you can + walk up and shoot him in the ear. This method has the excitement of riding + and following, the joy of a grand and noisy row, and the fun of seeing a + good dog-fight. The same effect can be got chasing wart-hogs, hyenas, + jackals-or jack-rabbits. The objection is that it wastes a noble beast in + an inferior game. My personal opinion is that no man is justified in + following with dogs any large animal that can be captured with reasonable + certainty without them. The sport of coursing is another matter; but that + is quite the same in essence whatever the size of the quarry. If you want + to kill a lion or so quite safely, and at the same time enjoy a glorious + and exciting gallop with lots of accompanying row, by all means follow the + sport with hounds. But having killed one or two by that method, quit. Do + not go on and clean up the country. You can do it. Poison and hounds are + the SURE methods of finding any lion there may be about; and AFTER THE + FIRST FEW, one is about as justifiable as the other. If you want the + undoubtedly great joy of cross country pursuit, send your hounds in after + less noble game. + </p> + <p> + The third safe method of killing a lion is nocturnal. You lay out a kill + beneath a tree, and climb the tree. Or better, you hitch out a pig or + donkey as live bait. When the lion comes to this free lunch, you try to + see him; and, if you succeed in that, you try to shoot him. It is not easy + to shoot at night; nor is it easy to see in the dark. Furthermore, lions + only occasionally bother to come to bait. You may roost up that tree many + nights before you get a chance. Once up, you have to stay up; for it is + most decidedly not safe to go home after dark. The tropical night in the + highlands is quite chilly. Branches seem to be quite as cramping and + abrasive under the equator as in the temperate zones. Still, it is one + method. + </p> + <p> + Another is to lay out a kill and visit it in the early morning. There is + more to this, for you are afoot, must generally search out your beast in + nearby cover, and can easily find any amount of excitement in the process. + </p> + <p> + The fourth way is to ride the lion. The hunter sees his quarry returning + home across the plains, perhaps; or jumps it from some small bushy ravine. + At once he spurs his horse in pursuit. The lion will run but a short + distance before coming to a stop, for he is not particularly long either + of wind or of patience. From this stand he almost invariably charges. The + astute hunter, still mounted, turns and flees. When the lion gets tired of + chasing, which he does in a very short time, the hunter faces about. At + last the lion sits down in the grass, waiting for the game to develop. + This is the time for the hunter to dismount and to take his shot. Quite + likely he must now stand a charge afoot, and drop his beast before it gets + to him. + </p> + <p> + This is real fun. It has many elements of safety, and many of danger. + </p> + <p> + To begin with, the hunter at this game generally has companions to back + him: often he employs mounted Somalis to round the lion up and get it to + stand. The charging lion is quite apt to make for the conspicuous mounted + men-who can easily escape-ignoring the hunter afoot. As the game is + largely played in the open, the movements of the beast are easily + followed. + </p> + <p> + On the other hand, there is room for mistake. The hunter, for example, + should never follow directly in the rear of his lion, but rather at a + parallel course off the beast's flank. Then, if the lion stops suddenly, + the man does not overrun before he can check his mount. He should never + dismount nearer than a hundred and fifty yards from the embayed animal; + and should never try to get off while the lion is moving in his direction. + Then, too, a hard gallop is not conducive to the best of shooting. It is + difficult to hold the front bead steady; and it is still more difficult to + remember to wait, once the lion charges, until he has come near enough for + a sure shot. A neglect in the inevitable excitement of the moment to + remember these and a dozen other small matters may quite possibly cause + trouble. + </p> + <p> + Two or three men together can make this one of the most exciting mounted + games on earth; with enough of the give and take of real danger and battle + to make it worth while. The hunter, however, who employs a dozen Somalis + to ride the beast to a standstill, after which he goes to the front, has + eliminated much of the thrill. Nor need that man's stay-at-home family + feel any excessive uneasiness over Father Killing Lions in Africa. + </p> + <p> + The method that interested me more than any other is one exceedingly + difficult to follow except under favourable circumstances. I refer to + tracking them down afoot. This requires that your gunbearer should be an + expert trailer, for, outside the fact that following a soft-padded animal + over all sorts of ground is a very difficult thing to do, the hunter + should be free to spy ahead. It is necessary also to possess much patience + and to endure under many disappointments. But on the other hand there is + in this sport a continuous keen thrill to be enjoyed in no other; and he + who single handed tracks down and kills his lion thus, has well earned the + title of shikari-the Hunter. + </p> + <p> + And the last method of all is to trust to the God of Chance. The secret of + success is to be always ready to take instant advantage of what the moment + offers. + </p> + <p> + An occasional hunting story is good in itself: and the following will also + serve to illustrate what I have just been saying. + </p> + <p> + We were after that prize, the greater kudu, and in his pursuit had + penetrated into some very rough country. Our hunting for the time being + was over broad bench, perhaps four or five miles wide, below a range of + mountains. The bench itself broke down in sheer cliffs some fifteen + hundred feet, but one did not appreciate that fact unless he stood fairly + on the edge of the precipice. To all intents and purposes we were on a + rolling grassy plain, with low hills and cliffs, and a most beautiful + little stream running down it beneath fine trees. + </p> + <p> + Up to now our hunting had gained us little beside information: that kudu + had occasionally visited the region, that they had not been there for a + month, and that the direction of their departure had been obscure. So we + worked our way down the stream, trying out the possibilities. Of other + game there seemed to be a fair supply: impalla, hartebeeste, zebra, eland, + buffalo, wart-hog, sing-sing, and giraffe we had seen. I had secured a + wonderful eland and a very fine impalla, and we had had a gorgeous + close-quarters fight with a cheetah.* Now C. had gone out, a three weeks' + journey, carrying to medical attendance a porter injured in the cheetah + fracas. Billy and I were continuing the hunt alone. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * This animal quite disproved the assertion that cheetahs + never assume the aggressive. He charged repeatedly. +</pre> + <p> + We had marched two hours, and were pitching camp under a single tree near + the edge of the bench. After seeing everything well under way, I took the + Springfield and crossed the stream, which here ran in a deep canyon. My + object was to see if I could get a sing-sing that had bounded away at our + approach. I did not bother to take a gunbearer, because I did not expect + to be gone five minutes. + </p> + <p> + The canyon proved unexpectedly deep and rough, and the stream up to my + waist. When I had gained the top, I found grass growing patchily from six + inches to two feet high; and small, scrubby trees from four to ten feet + tall, spaced regularly, but very scattered. These little trees hardly + formed cover, but their aggregation at sufficient distance limited the + view. + </p> + <p> + The sing-sing had evidently found his way over the edge of the bench. I + turned to go back to camp. A duiker-a small grass antelope-broke from a + little patch of the taller grass, rushed, head down headlong after their + fashion, suddenly changed his mind, and dashed back again. I stepped + forward to see why he had changed his mind-and ran into two lions! + </p> + <p> + They were about thirty yards away, and sat there on their haunches, side + by side, staring at me with expressionless yellow eyes. I stared back. The + Springfield is a good little gun, and three times before I had been forced + to shoot lions with it, but my real “lion gun” with which I had done best + work was the 405 Winchester. The Springfield is too light for such game. + Also there were two lions, very close. Also I was quite alone. + </p> + <p> + As the game stood, it hardly looked like my move; so I held still and + waited. Presently one yawned, they looked at each other, turned quite + leisurely, and began to move away at a walk. + </p> + <p> + This was a different matter. If I had fired while the two were facing me, + I should probably have had them both to deal with. But now that their + tails were turned toward me, I should very likely have to do with only the + one: at the crack of the rifle the other would run the way he was headed. + So I took a careful bead at the lioness and let drive. + </p> + <p> + My aim was to cripple the pelvic bone, but, unfortunately, just as I + fired, the beast wriggled lithely sidewise to pass around a tuft of grass, + so that the bullet inflicted merely a slight flesh wound on the rump. She + whirled like a flash, and as she raised her head high to locate me, I had + time to wish that the Springfield hit a trifle harder blow. Also I had + time to throw another cartridge in the barrel. + </p> + <p> + The moment she saw me she dropped her head and charged. She was thoroughly + angry and came very fast. I had just enough time to steady the gold bead + on her chest and to pull trigger. + </p> + <p> + At the shot, to my great relief, she turned bottom up, and I saw her tail + for an instant above the grass-an almost sure indication of a bad hit. She + thrashed around, and made a tremendous hullabaloo of snarls and growls. I + backed out slowly, my rifle ready. It was no place for me, for the grass + was over knee high. + </p> + <p> + Once at a safe distance I blazed a tree with my hunting knife and departed + for camp, well pleased to be out of it. At camp I ate lunch and had a + smoke; then with Memba Sasa and Mavrouki returned to the scene of trouble. + I had now the 405 Winchester, a light and handy weapon delivering a + tremendous blow. + </p> + <p> + We found the place readily enough. My lioness had recovered from the first + shock and had gone. I was very glad I had gone first. + </p> + <p> + The trail was not very plain, but it could be followed a foot or so at a + time, with many faults and casts back. I walked a yard to one side while + the men followed the spoor. Owing to the abundance of cover it was very + nervous work, for the beast might be almost anywhere, and would certainly + charge. We tried to keep a neutral zone around ourselves by tossing stones + ahead of and on both sides of our line of advance. My own position was not + bad, for I had the rifle ready in my hand, but the men were in danger. Of + course I was protecting them as well as I could, but there was always a + chance that the lioness might spring on them in such a manner that I would + be unable to use my weapon. Once I suggested that as the work was + dangerous, they could quit if they wanted to. + </p> + <p> + “Hapana!” they both refused indignantly. + </p> + <p> + We had proceeded thus for half a mile when to our relief, right ahead of + us, sounded the commanding, rumbling half-roar, half-growl of the lion at + bay. + </p> + <p> + Instantly Memba Sasa and Mavrouki dropped back to me. We all peered ahead. + One of the boys made her out first, crouched under a bush thirty-two yards + away. Even as I raised the rifle she saw us and charged. I caught her in + the chest before she had come ten feet. The heavy bullet stopped her dead. + Then she recovered and started forward slowly, very weak, but game to the + last. Another shot finished her. + </p> + <p> + The remarkable point of this incident was the action of the little + Springfield bullet. Evidently the very high velocity of this bullet from + its shock to the nervous system had delivered a paralyzing blow sufficient + to knock out the lioness for the time being. Its damage to tissue, + however, was slight. Inasmuch as the initial shock did not cause immediate + death, the lioness recovered sufficiently to be able, two hours later, to + take the offensive. This point is of the greatest interest to the student + of ballistics; but it is curious to even the ordinary reader. + </p> + <p> + That is a very typical example of finding lions by sheer chance. Generally + a man is out looking for the smallest kind of game when he runs up against + them. Now happened to follow an equally typical example of tracking. + </p> + <p> + The next day after the killing of the lioness Memba Sasa, Kongoni and I + dropped off the bench, and hunted greater kudu on a series of terraces + fifteen hundred feet below. All we found were two rhino, some sing-sing, a + heard of impalla, and a tremendous thirst. In the meantime, Mavrouki had, + under orders, scouted the foothills of the mountain range at the back. He + reported none but old tracks of kudu, but said he had seen eight lions not + far from our encounter of the day before. + </p> + <p> + Therefore, as soon next morning as we could see plainly, we again crossed + the canyon and the waist-deep stream. I had with me all three of the gun + men, and in addition two of the most courageous porters to help with the + tracking and the looking. + </p> + <p> + About eight o'clock we found the first fresh pad mark plainly outlined in + an isolated piece of soft earth. Immediately we began that most + fascinating of games-trailing over difficult ground. In this we could all + take part, for the tracks were some hours old, and the cover scanty. Very + rarely could we make out more than three successive marks. Then we had to + spy carefully for the slightest indication of direction. Kongoni in + especial was wonderful at this, and time and again picked up a broken + grass blade or the minutest inch-fraction of disturbed earth. We moved + slowly, in long hesitations and castings about, and in swift little dashes + forward of a few feet; and often we went astray on false scents, only to + return finally to the last certain spot. In this manner we crossed the + little plain with the scattered shrub trees and arrived at the edge of the + low bluff above the stream bottom. + </p> + <p> + This bottom was well wooded along the immediate bank of the stream itself, + fringed with low thick brush, and in the open spaces grown to the edges + with high, green, coarse grass. + </p> + <p> + As soon as we had managed to follow without fault to this grass, our + difficulties of trailing were at an end. The lions' heavy bodies had made + distinct paths through the tangle. These paths went forward sinuously, + sometimes separating one from the other, sometimes intertwining, sometimes + combining into one for a short distance. We could not determine accurately + the number of beasts that had made them. + </p> + <p> + “They have gone to drink water,” said Memba Sasa. + </p> + <p> + We slipped along the twisting paths, alert for indications; came to the + edge of the thicket, stooped through the fringe, and descended to the + stream under the tall trees. The soft earth at the water's edge was + covered with tracks, thickly overlaid one over the other. The boys felt of + the earth, examined, even smelled, and came to the conclusion that the + beasts must have watered about five o'clock. If so, they might be ten + miles away, or as many rods. + </p> + <p> + We had difficulty in determining just where the party left this place, + until finally Kongoni caught sight of suspicious indications over the way. + The lions had crossed the stream. We did likewise, followed the trail out + of the thicket, into the grass, below the little cliffs parallel to the + stream, back into the thicket, across the river once more, up the other + side, in the thicket for a quarter mile, then out into the grass on that + side, and so on. They were evidently wandering, rather idly, up the + general course of the stream. Certainly, unlike most cats, they did not + mind getting their feet wet, for they crossed the stream four times. + </p> + <p> + At last the twining paths in the shoulder-high grass fanned out + separately. We counted. + </p> + <p> + “You were right, Mavrouki,” said I, “there were eight.” + </p> + <p> + At the end of each path was a beaten-down little space where evidently the + beasts had been lying down. With an exclamation the three gunbearers + darted forward to investigate. The lairs were still warm! Their occupants + had evidently made off only at our approach! + </p> + <p> + Not five minutes later we were halted by a low warning growl right ahead. + We stopped. The boys squatted on their heels close to me, and we consulted + in whispers. + </p> + <p> + Of course it would be sheer madness to attack eight lions in grass so high + we could not see five feet in front of us. That went without saying. On + the other hand, Mavrouki swore that he had yesterday seen no small cubs + with the band, and our examination of the tracks made in soft earth seemed + to bear him out. The chances were therefore that, unless themselves + attacked or too close pressed, the lions would not attack us. By keeping + just in their rear we might be able to urge them gently along until they + should enter more open cover. Then we could see. + </p> + <p> + Therefore we gave the owner of that growl about five minutes to forget it, + and then advanced very cautiously. We soon found where the objector had + halted, and plainly read by the indications where he had stood for a + moment or so, and then moved on. We slipped along after. + </p> + <p> + For five hours we hung at the heels of that band of lions, moving very + slowly, perfectly willing to halt whenever they told us to, and going + forward again only when we became convinced that they too had gone on. + Except for the first half hour, we were never more than twenty or thirty + yards from the nearest lion, and often much closer. Three or four times I + saw slowly gliding yellow bodies just ahead of me, but in the + circumstances it would have been sheer stark lunacy to have fired. + Probably six or eight times-I did not count-we were commanded to stop, and + we did stop. + </p> + <p> + It was very exciting work, but the men never faltered. Of course I went + first, in case one of the beasts had the toothache or otherwise did not + play up to our calculations on good nature. One or the other of the + gunbearers was always just behind me. Only once was any comment made. + Kongoni looked very closely into my face. + </p> + <p> + “There are very many lions,” he remarked doubtfully. + </p> + <p> + “Very many lions,” I agreed, as though assenting to a mere statement of + fact. + </p> + <p> + Although I am convinced there was no real danger, as long as we stuck to + our plan of campaign, nevertheless it was quite interesting to be for so + long a period so near these great brutes. They led us for a mile or so + along the course of the stream, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the + other. Several times they emerged into better cover, and even into the + open, but always ducked back into the thick again before we ourselves had + followed their trail to the clear. + </p> + <p> + At noon we were halted by the usual growl just as we had reached the edge + of the river. So we sat down on the banks and had lunch. + </p> + <p> + Finally our chance came. The trail led us, for the dozenth time, from the + high grass into the thicket along the river. We ducked our heads to enter. + Memba Sasa, next my shoulder, snapped his fingers violently. Following the + direction of the brown arm that shot over my shoulder, I strained my eyes + into the dimness of the thicket. At first I could see nothing at all, but + at length a slight motion drew my eye. Then I made out the silhouette of a + lion's head, facing us steadily. One of the rear guard had again turned to + halt us, but this time where he and his surroundings could be seen. + </p> + <p> + Luckily I always use a Sheard gold bead sight, and even in the dimness of + the tree-shaded thicket it showed up well. The beast was only forty yards + away, so I fired at his head. He rolled over without a sound. + </p> + <p> + We took the usual great precautions in determining the genuineness of his + demise, then carried him into the open. Strangely enough the bullet had + gone so cleanly into his left eye that it had not even broken the edge of + the eyelid; so that when skinned he did not show a mark. He was a very + decent maned lion, three feet four inches at the shoulder, and nine feet + long as he lay. We found that he had indeed been the rear guard, and that + the rest, on the other side of the thicket, had made off at the shot. So + in spite of the APPARENT danger of the situation, our calculations had + worked out perfectly. Also we had enjoyed a half day's sport of an + intensity quite impossible to be extracted from any other method of + following the lion. + </p> + <p> + In trying to guess how any particular lions may act, however, you will + find yourself often at fault. The lion is a very intelligent and crafty + beast, and addicted to tricks. If you follow a lion to a small hill, it is + well to go around that hill on the side opposite to that taken by your + quarry. You are quite likely to meet him for he is clever enough thus to + try to get in your rear. He will lie until you have actually passed him + before breaking off. He will circle ahead, then back to confuse his trail. + And when you catch sight of him in the distance, you would never suspect + that he knew of your presence at all. He saunters slowly, apparently + aimlessly, along pausing often, evidently too bored to take any interest + in life. You wait quite breathlessly for him to pass behind cover. Then + you are going to make a very rapid advance, and catch his leisurely + retreat. But the moment old Leo does pass behind the cover, his appearance + of idle stroller vanishes. In a dozen bounds he is gone. + </p> + <p> + That is what makes lion hunting delightful. There are some regions, very + near settlements, where it is perhaps justifiable to poison these beasts. + If you are a true sportsman you will confine your hound-hunting to those + districts. Elsewhere, as far as playing fair with a noble beast is + concerned, you may as well toss a coin to see which you shall take-your + pack or a strychnine bottle. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0013" id="link2H_4_0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XIII. ON THE MANAGING OF A SAFARI + </h2> + <p> + We made our way slowly down the river. As the elevation dropped, the + temperature rose. It was very hot indeed during the day, and in the + evening the air was tepid and caressing, and musical with the hum of + insects. We sat about quite comfortably in our pajamas, and took our + fifteen grains of quinine per week against the fever. + </p> + <p> + The character of the jungle along the river changed imperceptibly, the + dhum palms crowding out the other trees; until, at our last camp, were + nothing but palms. The wind in them sounded variously like the patter or + the gathering onrush of rain. On either side the country remained + unchanged, however. The volcanic hills rolled away to the distant ranges. + Everywhere grew sparsely the low thornbrush, opening sometimes into clear + plains, closing sometimes into dense thickets. One morning we awoke to + find that many supposedly sober-minded trees had burst into blossom fairly + over night. They were red, and yellow and white that before were green, a + truly gorgeous sight. + </p> + <p> + Then we turned sharp to the right and began to ascend a little tributary + brook coming down the wide flats from a cleft in the hills. This was + prettily named the Isiola, and, after the first mile or so, was not big + enough to afford the luxury of a jungle of its own. Its banks were + generally grassy and steep, its thickets few, and its little trees + isolated in parklike spaces. To either side of it, and almost at its + level, stretched plains, but plains grown with scattered brush and shrubs + so that at a mile or two one's vista was closed. But for all its scant ten + feet of width the Isiola stood upon its dignity as a stream. We discovered + that when we tried to cross. The men floundered waist-deep on uncertain + bottom; the syces received much unsympathetic comment for their handling + of the animals, and we had to get Billy over by a melodramatic “bridge of + life” with B., F., myself, and Memba Sasa in the title roles. + </p> + <p> + Then we pitched camp in the open on the other side, sent the horses back + from the stream until after dark, in fear of the deadly tsetse fly, and + prepared to enjoy a good exploration of the neighbourhood. Whereupon + M'ganga rose up to his gaunt and terrific height of authority, stretched + forth his bony arm at right angles, and uttered between eight and nine + thousand commands in a high dynamic monotone without a single pause for + breath. These, supplemented by about as many more, resulted in (a) a + bridge across the stream, and (b) a banda. + </p> + <p> + A banda is a delightful African institution. It springs from nothing in + about two hours, but it takes twenty boys with a vitriolic M'ganga back of + them to bring it about. Some of them carry huge backloads of grass, or + papyrus, or cat-tail rushes, as the case may be; others lug in poles of + various lengths from where their comrades are cutting them by means of + their panga. A panga, parenthetically, is the safari man's substitute for + axe, shovel, pick, knife, sickle, lawn-mower, hammer, gatling gun, world's + library of classics, higher mathematics, grand opera, and toothpicks. It + looks rather like a machete with a very broad end and a slight curved + back. A good man can do extraordinary things with it. Indeed, at this + moment, two boys are with this apparently clumsy implement delicately + peeling some of the small thorn trees, from the bared trunks of which they + are stripping long bands of tough inner bark. + </p> + <p> + With these three raw materials-poles, withes, and grass-M'ganga and his + men set to work. They planted their corner and end poles, they laid their + rafters, they completed their framework, binding all with the tough + withes; then deftly they thatched it with the grass. Almost before we had + settled our own affairs, M'ganga was standing before us smiling. Gone now + was his mien of high indignation and swirling energy. + </p> + <p> + “Banda naquisha,” he informed us. + </p> + <p> + And we moved in our table and our canvas chairs; hung up our water + bottles; Billy got out her fancy work. Nothing could be pleasanter nor + more appropriate to the climate than this wide low arbour, open at either + end to the breezes, thatched so thickly that the fierce sun could nowhere + strike through. + </p> + <p> + The men had now settled down to a knowledge of what we were like; and + things were going smoothly. At first the African porter will try it on to + see just how easy you are likely to prove. If he makes up his mind that + you really are easy, then you are in for infinite petty annoyance, and + possibly open mutiny. Therefore, for a little while, it is necessary to be + extremely vigilant, to insist on minute performance in all circumstances + where later you might condone an omission. For the same reason punishment + must be more frequent and more severe at the outset. It is all a matter of + watching the temper of the men. If they are cheerful and willing, you are + not nearly as particular as you would be were their spirit becoming + sullen. Then the infraction is not so important in itself as an excuse for + the punishment. For when your men get sulky, you watch vigilantly for the + first and faintest EXCUSE to inflict punishment. + </p> + <p> + This game always seemed to me very fascinating, when played right. It is + often played wrong. People do not look far enough. Because they see that + punishment has a most salutary effect on morale, and is sometimes + efficacious in getting things done that otherwise would lag, they jump to + the conclusion that the only effective way to handle a safari is by + penalties. By this I do not at all mean that they act savagely, or punish + to brutal excess. Merely they hold rigidly to the letter of the work and + the day's discipline. Because it is sometimes necessary to punish severely + slight infractions when the men's tempers need sweetening, they ALWAYS + punish slight infractions severely. + </p> + <p> + And in ordinary circumstances this method undoubtedly results in a very + efficient safari. Things are done smartly, on time, with a snap. The day's + march begins without delay; there is a minimum of straggling; on arrival + the tents are immediately got up and the wood and water fetched. But in a + tight place, men so handled by invariable rule are very apt to sit down + apathetically, and put the whole thing up to the white man. When it comes + time to help out they are not there. The contrast with a well-disposed + safari cannot be appreciated by one who has not seen both. + </p> + <p> + The safari-man loves a master. He does not for a moment understand any + well-meant but misplaced efforts on your part to lighten his work below + the requirements of custom. Always he will beg you to ease up on him, to + accord him favour; and always he will despise you if you yield. The + relations of man to man, of man to work, are all long since established by + immemorial distauri-custom-and it is not for you or him to change them + lightly. If you know what he should or can do, and hold him rigidly to it, + he will respect and follow you. + </p> + <p> + But in order to keep him up to the mark, it is not always advisable to + light into him with a whip, necessary as the whip often is. If he is + sullen, or inclined to make mischief, then that is the crying requirement. + But if he is merely careless, or a little slow, or tired, you can handle + him in other ways. Ridicule before his comrades is very effective: a sort + of good-natured guying, I mean. “Ah! very tired!” uttered in the right + tone of voice has brought many a loiterer to his feet as effectively as + the kick some men feel must always be bestowed, and quite without anger, + mind you! For days at a time we have kept our men travelling at good speed + by commenting, as though by the way, after we had arrived in camp, on + which tribe happened to come in at the head. + </p> + <p> + “Ah! Kavirondos came in first to-night,” we would remark. “Last night the + Monumwezis were ahead.” + </p> + <p> + And once, actually, by this method we succeeded in working up such a + feeling of rivalry that the Kikuyus, the unambitious, weak and despised + Kikuyus, led the van! + </p> + <p> + But the first hint of insubordination, of intended insolence, of willful + shirking must be met by instant authority. Occasionally, when the + situation is of the quick and sharp variety, the white man may have to mix + in the row himself. He must never hesitate an instant; for the only reason + he alone can control so many is that he has always controlled them. F. had + a very effective blow, or shove, which I found well worth adopting. It is + delivered with the heel of the palm to the man's chin, and is more of a + lifting, heaving shove than an actual blow. Its effect is immediately + upsetting. Impertinence is best dealt with in this manner on the spot. + Evidently intended slowness in coming when called is also best treated by + a flick of the whip-and forgetfulness. And so with a half dozen others. + But any more serious matter should be decided from the throne of the + canvas chair, witness should be heard, judgment formally pronounced, and + execution intrusted to the askaris or gunbearers. + </p> + <p> + It is, as I have said, a most interesting game. It demands three sorts of + knowledge: first what a safari man is capable of doing; second, what he + customarily should or should not do; third, an ability to read the actual + intention or motive back of his actions. When you are able to punish or + hold your hand on these principles, and not merely because things have or + have not gone smoothly or right, then you are a good safari manager. There + are mighty few of them. + </p> + <p> + As for punishment, that is quite simply the whip. The average writer on + the country speaks of this with hushed voice and averted face as a + necessity but as something to be deprecated and passed over as quickly as + possible. He does this because he thinks he ought to. As a matter of fact, + such an attitude is all poppycock. In the flogging of a white man, or a + black who suffers from such a punishment in his soul as well as his body, + this is all very well. But the safari man expects it, it doesn't hurt his + feelings in the least, it is ancient custom. As well sentimentalize over + necessary schoolboy punishment, or over father paddy-whacking little + Willie when little Willie has been a bad boy. The chances are your porter + will leap to his feet, crack his heels together and depart with a whoop of + joy, grinning from ear to ear. Or he may draw himself up and salute you, + military fashion, again with a grin. In any case his “soul” is not + “scared” a little bit, and there is no sense in yourself feeling about it + as though it were. + </p> + <p> + At another slant the justice you will dispense to your men differs from + our own. Again this is because of the teaching long tradition has made + part of their mental make-up. Our own belief is that it is better to let + two guilty men go than to punish one innocent. With natives it is the + other way about. If a crime is committed the guilty MUST be punished. + Preferably he alone is to be dealt with; but in case it is impossible to + identify him, then all the members of the first inclusive unit must be + brought to account. This is the native way of doing things; is the only + way the native understands; and is the only way that in his mind true + justice is answered. Thus if a sheep is stolen, the thief must be caught + and punished. Suppose, however it is known to what family the thief + belongs, but the family refuses to disclose which of its members committed + the theft: then each member must be punished for sheep stealing; or, if + not the family, then the tribe must make restitution. But punishment MUST + be inflicted. + </p> + <p> + There is an essential justice to recommend this, outside the fact that it + has with the native all the solidity of accepted ethics, and it certainly + helps to run the real criminal to earth. The innocent sometimes suffers + innocently, but not very often; and our own records show that in that + respect with us it is the same. This is not the place to argue the right + or wrong of the matter from our own standpoint but to recognize the fact + that it is right from theirs, and to act accordingly. Thus in cast of + theft of meat, or something that cannot be traced, it is well to call up + the witnesses, to prove the alibis, and then to place the issue squarely + up to those that remain. There may be but two, or there may be a dozen. + </p> + <p> + “I know you did not all steal the meat,” you must say, “but I know that + one of you did. Unless I know which one that is by to-morrow morning, I + will kiboko all of you. Bass!” + </p> + <p> + Perhaps occasionally you may have to kiboko the lot, in the full knowledge + that most are innocent. That seems hard; and your heart will misgive you. + Harden it. The “innocent” probably know perfectly well who the guilty man + is. And the incident builds for the future. + </p> + <p> + I had intended nowhere to comment on the politics or policies of the + country. Nothing is more silly than the casual visitor's snap judgments on + how a country is run. Nevertheless, I may perhaps be pardoned for + suggesting that the Government would strengthen its hand, and aid its few + straggling settlers by adopting this native view of retributions. For + instance, at present it is absolutely impossible to identify individual + sheep and cattle stealers. They operate stealthily and at night. If the + Government cannot identify the actual thief, it gives the matter up. As a + consequence a great hardship is inflicted on the settler and an evil + increases. If, however, the Government would hold the village, the + district, or the tribe responsible, and exact just compensation from such + units in every case, the evil would very suddenly come to an end. And the + native's respect for the white man would climb in the scale. + </p> + <p> + Once the safari man gets confidence in his master, that confidence is + complete. The white man's duties are in his mind clearly defined. His job + is to see that the black man is fed, is watered, is taken care of in every + way. The ordinary porter considers himself quite devoid of responsibility. + He is also an improvident creature, for he drinks all his water when he + gets thirsty, no matter how long and hot the journey before him; he eats + his rations all up when he happens to get hungry, two days before next + distribution time; he straggles outrageously at times and has to be + rounded up; he works three months and, on a whim, deserts two days before + the end of his journey, thus forfeiting all his wages. Once two porters + came to us for money. + </p> + <p> + “What for?” asked C. + </p> + <p> + “To buy a sheep,” said they. + </p> + <p> + For two months we had been shooting them all the game meat they could eat, + but on this occasion two days had intervened since the last kill. If they + had been on trading safari they would have had no meat at all. A sheep + cost six rupees in that country, and they were getting but ten rupees a + month as wages. In view of the circumstances, and for their own good, we + refused. Another man once insisted on purchasing a cake of violet-scented + soap for a rupee. Their chief idea of a wild time in Nairobi, after return + from a long safari, is to SIT IN A CHAIR and drink tea. For this they pay + exorbitantly at the Somali so-called “hotels.” It is a strange sight. But + then, I have seen cowboys off the range or lumberjacks from the river do + equally extravagant and foolish things. + </p> + <p> + On the other hand they carry their loads well, they march tremendously, + they know their camp duties and they do them. Under adverse circumstances + they are good-natured. I remember C. and I, being belated and lost in a + driving rain. We wandered until nearly midnight. The four or five men with + us were loaded heavily with the meat and trophy of a roan. Certainly they + must have been very tired; for only occasionally could we permit them to + lay down their loads. Most of the time we were actually groping, over + boulders, volcanic rocks, fallen trees and all sorts of tribulation. The + men took it as a huge joke, and at every pause laughed consumedly. + </p> + <p> + In making up a safari one tries to mix in four or five tribes. This + prevents concerted action in case of trouble, for no one tribe will help + another. They vary both in tribal and individual characteristics, of + course. For example, the Kikuyus are docile but mediocre porters; the + Kavirondos strong carriers but turbulent and difficult to handle. You are + very lucky if you happen on a camp jester, one of the sort that sings, + shouts, or jokes while on the march. He is probably not much as a porter, + but he is worth his wages nevertheless. He may or may not aspire to his + giddy eminence. We had one droll-faced little Kavirondo whose very + expression made one laugh, and whose rueful remarks on the harshness of + his lot finally ended by being funny. His name got to be a catchword in + camp. + </p> + <p> + “Mualo! Mualo!” the men would cry, as they heaved their burdens to their + heads; and all day long their war cry would ring out, “Mualo!” followed by + shrieks of laughter. + </p> + <p> + Of the other type was Sulimani, a big, one-eyed Monumwezi, who had a + really keen wit coupled with an earnest, solemn manner. This man was no + buffoon, however; and he was a good porter, always at or near the head of + the procession. In the great jungle south of Kenia we came upon + Cuninghame. When the head of our safari reached the spot Sulimani left the + ranks and, his load still aloft danced solemnly in front of Cuninghame, + chanting something in a loud tone of voice. Then with a final deep + “Jambo!” to his old master he rejoined the safari. When the day had + stretched to weariness and the men had fallen to a sullen plodding, + Sulimani's vigorous song could always set the safari sticks tapping the + sides of the chop boxes. + </p> + <p> + He carried part of the tent, and the next best men were entrusted with the + cook outfit and our personal effects. It was a point of honour with these + men to be the first in camp. The rear, the very extreme and straggling + rear, was brought up by worthless porters with loads of cornmeal-and the + weary askaris whose duty it was to keep astern and herd the lot in. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0014" id="link2H_4_0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XIV. A DAY ON THE ISIOLA + </h2> + <p> + Early one morning-we were still on the Isiola-we set forth on our horses + to ride across the rolling, brush-grown plain. Our intention was to + proceed at right angles to our own little stream until we had reached the + forest growth of another, which we could dimly make out eight or ten miles + distant. Billy went with us, so there were four a-horseback. Behind us + trudged the gunbearers, and the syces, and after them straggled a dozen or + fifteen porters. + </p> + <p> + The sun was just up, and the air was only tepid as yet. From patches of + high grass whirred and rocketed grouse of two sorts. They were so much + like our own ruffed grouse and prairie chicken that I could with no effort + imagine myself once more a boy in the coverts of the Middle West. Only + before us we could see the stripes of trotting zebra disappearing; and + catch the glint of light on the bayonets of the oryx. Two giraffes + galumphed away to the right. Little grass antelope darted from clump to + clump of grass. Once we saw gerenuk-oh, far away in an impossible + distance. Of course we tried to stalk them; and as usual we failed. The + gerenuk we had come to look upon as our Lesser Hoodoo. + </p> + <p> + The beast is a gazelle about as big as a black-tailed deer. His + peculiarity is his excessively long neck, a good deal on the giraffe + order. With it he crops browse above high tide mark of other animals, + especially when as often happens he balances cleverly on his hind legs. By + means of it also he can, with his body completely concealed, look over the + top of ordinary cover and see you long before you have made out his + inconspicuous little head. Then he departs. He seems to have a lamentable + lack of healthy curiosity about you. In that respect he should take + lessons from the kongoni. After that you can follow him as far as you + please; you will get only glimpses at three or four hundred yards. + </p> + <p> + We remounted sadly and rode on. The surface of the ground was rather soft, + scattered with round rocks the size of a man's head, and full of pig + holes. + </p> + <p> + “Cheerful country to ride over at speed,” remarked Billy. Later in the day + we had occasion to remember that statement. + </p> + <p> + The plains led us ever on. First would be a band of scattered brush + growing singly and in small clumps: then a little open prairie; then a + narrow, long grass swale; then perhaps a low, long hill with small single + trees and rough, volcanic footing. Ten thousand things kept us interested. + Game was everywhere, feeding singly, in groups, in herds, game of all + sizes and descriptions. The rounded ears of jackals pointed at us from the + grass. Hundreds of birds balanced or fluttered about us, birds of all + sizes from the big ground hornbill to the littlest hummers and sun birds. + Overhead, across the wonderful variegated sky of Africa the broad-winged + carrion hunters and birds of prey wheeled. In all our stay on the Isiola + we had not seen a single rhino track, so we rode quite care free and + happy. + </p> + <p> + Finally, across a glade, not over a hundred and fifty yards away, we saw a + solitary bull oryx standing under a bush. B. wanted an oryx. We discussed + this one idly. He looked to be a decent oryx, but nothing especial. + However, he offered a very good shot; so B., after some hesitation, + decided to take it. It proved to be by far the best specimen we shot, the + horns measuring thirty-six and three fourths inches! Almost immediately + after, two of the rather rare striped hyenas leaped from the grass and + departed rapidly over the top of a hill. We opened fire, and F. dropped + one of them. By the time these trophies were prepared, the sun had mounted + high in the heavens, and it was getting hot. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly we abandoned that still distant river and swung away in a wide + circle to return to camp. + </p> + <p> + Several minor adventures brought us to high noon and the heat of the day. + B. had succeeded in drawing a prize, one of the Grevy's or mountain zebra. + He and the gunbearers engaged themselves with that, while we sat under the + rather scanty shade of a small thorn tree and had lunch. Here we had a + favourable chance to observe that very common, but always wonderful + phenomenon, the gathering of the carrion birds. Within five minutes after + the stoop of the first vulture above the carcass, the sky immediately over + that one spot was fairly darkened with them. They were as thick as + midges-or as ducks used to be in California. All sizes were there from the + little carrion crows to the great dignified vultures and marabouts and + eagles. The small fry flopped and scolded, and rose and fell in a dense + mass; the marabouts walked with dignified pace to and fro through the + grass all about. As far as the eye could penetrate the blue, it could make + out more and yet more of the great soarers stooping with half bent wings. + Below we could see uncertainly through the shimmer of the mirage the bent + forms of the men. + </p> + <p> + We ate and waited; and after a little we dozed. I was awakened suddenly by + a tremendous rushing roar, like the sound of a not too distant waterfall. + The group of men were plodding toward us carrying burdens. And like + plummets the birds were dropping straight down from the heavens, spreading + wide their wings at the last moment to check their speed. This made the + roaring sound that had awakened me. + </p> + <p> + A wide spot in the shimmer showed black and struggling against the ground. + I arose and walked over, meeting halfway B. and the men carrying the meat. + It took me probably about two minutes to reach the place where the zebra + had been killed. Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of the great birds were + standing idly about; a dozen or so were flapping and scrambling in the + centre. I stepped into view. With a mighty commotion they all took wing + clumsily, awkwardly, reluctantly. A trampled, bloody space and the larger + bones, picked absolutely clean, was all that remained! In less than two + minutes the job had been done! + </p> + <p> + “You're certainly good workmen!” I exclaimed, “but I wonder how you all + make a living!” + </p> + <p> + We started the men on to camp with the meat, and ourselves rested under + the shade. The day had been a full and interesting one; but we considered + it as finished. Remained only the hot journey back to camp. + </p> + <p> + After a half hour we mounted again and rode on slowly. The sun was very + strong and a heavy shimmer clothed the plain. Through this shimmer we + caught sight of something large and black and flapping. It looked like a + crow-or, better, a scare-crow-crippled, half flying, half running, with + waving wings or arms, now dwindling, now gigantic as the mirage caught it + up or let it drop. As we watched, it developed, and we made it out to be a + porter, clad in a long, ragged black overcoat, running zigzag through the + bushes in our direction. + </p> + <p> + The moment we identified it we spurred our horses forward. As my horse + leaped, Memba Sasa snatched the Springfield from my left hand and forced + the 405 Winchester upon me. Clever Memba Sasa! He no more than we knew + what was up, but shrewdly concluded that whatever it was it needed a heavy + gun. + </p> + <p> + As we galloped to meet him, the porter stopped. We saw him to be a very + long-legged, raggedy youth whom we had nicknamed the Marabout because of + his exceedingly long, lean legs, the fact that his breeches were white, + short and baggy, and because he kept his entire head shaved close. He + called himself Fundi, which means The Expert, a sufficient indication of + his confidence in himself. + </p> + <p> + He awaited us leaning on his safari stick, panting heavily, the sweat + running off his face in splashes. “Simba!”* said he, and immediately set + off on a long, easy lope ahead of us. We pulled down to a trot and + followed him. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Lion +</pre> + <p> + At the end of a half mile we made out a man up a tree. Fundi, out of + breath, stopped short and pointed to this man. The latter, as soon as he + had seen us, commenced to scramble down. We spurred forward to find out + where the lions had been last seen. + </p> + <p> + Then Billy covered herself with glory by seeing them first. She apprised + us of that fact with some excitement. We saw the long, yellow bodies of + two of them disappearing in the edge of the brush about three hundred + yards away. With a wild whoop we tore after them at a dead run. + </p> + <p> + Then began a wild ride. Do you remember Billy's remark about the nature of + the footing? Before long we closed in near enough to catch occasional + glimpses of the beasts, bounding easily along. At that moment B.'s horse + went down in a heap. None of us thought for a moment of pulling up. I + looked back to see B. getting up again, and thought I caught fragments of + encouraging-sounding language. Then my horse went down. I managed to hold + my rifle clear, and to cling to the reins. Did you ever try to get on a + somewhat demoralized horse in a frantic hurry, when all your friends were + getting farther away every minute, and so lessening your chances of being + in the fun? I began to understand perfectly B.'s remarks of a moment + before. However, on I scrambled, and soon overtook the hunt. + </p> + <p> + We dodged in and out of bushes, and around and over holes. Every few + moments we would catch a glimpse of one of those silently bounding lions, + and then we would let out a yell. Also every few moments one or the other + of us would go down in a heap, and would scramble up and curse, and + remount hastily. Billy had better luck. She had no gun, and belonged a + little in the rear anyway, but was coming along game as a badger for all + that. + </p> + <p> + My own horse had the legs of the others quite easily, and for that reason + I was ahead far enough to see the magnificent sight of five lions sideways + on, all in a row, standing in the grass gazing at me with a sort of calm + and impersonal dignity. I wheeled my horse immediately so as to be ready + in case of a charge, and yelled to the others to hurry up. While I sat + there, they moved slowly off one after the other, so that by the time the + men had come, the lions had gone. We now had no difficulty in running into + them again. Once more my better animal brought me to the lead, so that for + the second time I drew up facing the lions, and at about one hundred yards + range. One by one they began to leave as before, very leisurely and + haughtily, until a single old maned fellow remained. He, however, sat + there, his great round head peering over the top of the grass. + </p> + <p> + “Well,” he seemed to say, “here I am, what do you intend to do about it?” + </p> + <p> + The others arrived, and we all dismounted. B. had not yet killed his lion, + so the shot was his. Billy very coolly came up behind and held his horse. + I should like here to remark that Billy is very terrified of spiders. F. + and I stood at the ready, and B. sat down. + </p> + <p> + Riding fast an exciting mile or so, getting chucked on your head two or + three times, and facing your first lion are none of them conducive to + steady shooting. The first shot therefore went high, but the second hit + the lion square in the chest, and he rolled over dead. + </p> + <p> + We all danced a little war dance, and congratulated B. and turned to get + the meaning of a queer little gurgling gasp behind us. There was Fundi! + That long-legged scarecrow, not content with running to get us and then + back again, had trailed us the whole distance of our mad chase over broken + ground at terrific speed in order to be in at the death. And he was just + about all in at the death. He could barely gasp his breath, his eyes stuck + out; he looked close to apoplexy. + </p> + <p> + “Bwana! bwana!” was all he could say. “Master! master!” + </p> + <p> + We shook hands with Fundi. + </p> + <p> + “My son,” said I, “you're a true sport, and you'll surely get yours + later.” + </p> + <p> + He did not understand me, but he grinned. The gunbearers began to drift + in, also completely pumped. They set up a feeble shout when they saw the + dead lion. It was a good maned beast, three feet six inches at the + shoulder, and nine feet long. + </p> + <p> + We left Fundi with the lion, instructing him to stay there until some of + the other men came up. We remounted and pushed on slowly in hopes of + coming on one of the others. + </p> + <p> + Here and there we rode, our courses interweaving, looking eagerly. And lo! + through a tiny opening in the brush we espied one of those elusive gerenuk + standing not over one hundred yards away. Whereupon I dismounted and did + some of the worst shooting I perpetrated in Africa, for I let loose three + times at him before I landed. But land I did, and there was one Lesser + Hoodoo broken. Truly this was our day. + </p> + <p> + We measured him and started to prepare the trophy, when to us came + Mavrouki and a porter, quite out of breath, but able to tell us that they + had been scouting around and had seen two of the lions. Then, instead of + leaving one up a tree to watch, both had come pell-mell to tell us all + about it. We pointed this out to them, and called their attention to the + fact that the brush was wide, that lions are not stationary objects, and + that, unlike the leopard, they can change their spots quite readily. + However, we remounted and went to take a look. + </p> + <p> + Of course there was nothing. So we rode on, rather aimlessly, weaving in + and out of the bushes and open spaces. I think we were all a little tired + from the long day and the excitement, and hence a bit listless. Suddenly + we were fairly shaken out of our saddles by an angry roar just ahead. + Usually a lion growls, low and thunderous, when he wants, to warn you that + you have gone about far enough; but this one was angry all through at + being followed about so much, and he just plain yelled at us. + </p> + <p> + He crouched near a bush forty yards away, and was switching his tail. I + had heard that this was a sure premonition of an instant charge, but I had + not before realized exactly what “switching the tail” meant. I had thought + of it as a slow sweeping from side to side, after the manner of the + domestic cat. This lion's tail was whirling perpendicularly from right to + left, and from left to right with the speed and energy of a flail actuated + by a particularly instantaneous kind of machinery. I could see only the + outline of the head and this vigorous tail; but I took instant aim and let + drive. The whole affair sank out of sight. + </p> + <p> + We made a detour around the dead lion without stopping to examine him, + shouting to one of the men to stay and watch the carcass. Billy alone + seemed uninfected with the now prevalent idea that we were likely to find + lions almost anywhere. Her skepticism was justified. We found no more + lions; but another miracle took place for all that. We ran across the + second imbecile gerenuk, and B. collected it! These two were the only ones + we ever got within decent shot of, and they sandwiched themselves neatly + with lions. Truly, it WAS our day. + </p> + <p> + After a time we gave it up, and went back to measure and photograph our + latest prize. It proved to be a male, maneless, two inches shorter than + that killed by B., and three feet five and one half inches tall at the + shoulder. My bullet had reached the brain just over the left eye. + </p> + <p> + Now, toward sunset, we headed definitely toward camp. The long shadows and + beautiful lights of evening were falling across the hills far the other + side the Isiola. A little breeze with a touch of coolness breathed down + from distant unseen Kenia. We plodded on through the grass quite happily, + noting the different animals coming out to the cool of the evening. The + line of brush that marked the course of the Isiola came imperceptibly + nearer until we could make out the white gleam of the porters' tents and + wisps of smoke curling upward. + </p> + <p> + Then a small black mass disengaged itself from the camp and came slowly + across the prairie in our direction. As it approached we made it out to be + our Monumwezis, twenty strong. The news of the lions had reached them, and + they were coming to meet us. They were huddled in a close knot, their + heads inclined toward the centre. Each man carried upright a peeled white + wand. They moved in absolute unison and rhythm, on a slanting zigzag in + our direction: first three steps to the right, then three to the left, + with a strong stamp of the foot between. Their bodies swayed together. + Sulimani led them, dancing backward, his wand upheld. + </p> + <p> + “Sheeka!” he enunciated in a piercing half whistle. + </p> + <p> + And the swaying men responded in chorus, half hushed, rumbling, with + strong aspiration. + </p> + <p> + “Goom zoop! goom zoop!” + </p> + <p> + When fifty yards from us, however, the formation broke and they rushed us + with a yell. Our horses plunged in astonishment, and we had hard work to + prevent their bolting, small blame to 'em! The men surrounded us, shaking + our hands frantically. At once they appropriated everything we or our + gunbearers carried. One who got left otherwise insisted on having Billy's + parasol. Then we all broke for camp at full speed, yelling like fiends, + firing our revolvers in the air. It was a grand entry, and a grand + reception. The rest of the camp poured out with wild shouts. The dark + forms thronged about us, teeth flashing, arms waving. And in the + background, under the shadows of the trees were the Monumwezis, their + formation regained, close gathered, heads bent, two steps swaying to the + right-stamp! two steps swaying to the left-stamp!-the white wands + gleaming, and the rumble of their lion song rolling in an undertone: + </p> + <p> + “Goom zoop! goom zoop!” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0015" id="link2H_4_0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XV. THE LION DANCE + </h2> + <p> + We took our hot baths and sat down to supper most gratefully, for we were + tired. The long string of men, bearing each a log of wood, filed in from + the darkness to add to our pile of fuel. Saa-sita and Shamba knelt and + built the night fire. In a moment the little flame licked up through the + carefully arranged structure. We finished the meal, and the boys whisked + away the table. + </p> + <p> + Then out in the blackness beyond our little globe of light we became aware + of a dull confusion, a rustling to and fro. Through the shadows the eye + could guess at movement. The confusion steadied to a kind of rhythm, and + into the circle of the fire came the group of Monumwezis. Again they were + gathered together in a compact little mass; but now they were bent nearly + double, and were stripped to the red blankets about their waists. Before + them writhed Sulimani, close to earth, darting irregularly now to right, + now to left, wriggling, spreading his arms abroad. He was repeating over + and over two phrases; or rather the same phrase in two such different + intonations that they seemed to convey quite separate meanings. + </p> + <p> + “Ka soompeele?” he cried with a strongly appealing interrogation. + </p> + <p> + “Ka soompeele!” he repeated with the downward inflection of decided + affirmation. + </p> + <p> + And the bent men, their dark bodies gleaming in the firelight, stamping in + rhythm every third step, chorused in a deep rumbling bass: + </p> + <p> + “Goom zoop! goom zoop!” + </p> + <p> + Thus they advanced; circled between us and the fire, and withdrew to the + half darkness, where tirelessly they continued the same reiterations. + </p> + <p> + Hardly had they withdrawn when another group danced forward in their + places. These were the Kikuyus. They had discarded completely their safari + clothes, and now came forth dressed out in skins, in strips of white + cloth, with feathers, shells and various ornaments. They carried white + wands to represent spears, and they sang their tribal lion song. A soloist + delivered the main argument in a high wavering minor and was followed by a + deep rumbling emphatic chorus of repetition, strongly accented so that the + sheer rhythm of it was most pronounced: + </p> + <p> + “An-gee a Ka ga An-gee a Ka ga An-gee a Ka ga Ki ya Ka ga Ka ga an gee + ya!” + </p> + <p> + Solemnly and loftily, their eyes fixed straight before them they made the + circle of the fire, passed before our chairs, and withdrew to the half + light. There, a few paces from the stamping, crouching Monumwezis, they + continued their performance. + </p> + <p> + The next to appear were the Wakambas. These were more histrionic. They too + were unrecognizable as our porters, for they too had for the lion + discarded their work-a-day garments in favour of savage. They produced a + pantomime of the day's doings, very realistic indeed, ending with a half + dozen of dark swaying bodies swinging and shuddering in the long grass as + lions, while the “horses” wove in and out among the crouching forms, all + done to the beat of rhythm. Past us swept the hunt, and in its turn melted + into the half light. + </p> + <p> + The Kavirondos next appeared, the most fantastically caparisoned of the + lot, fine big black men, their eyes rolling with excitement. They had + captured our flag from its place before the big tent, and were rallied + close about this, dancing fantastically. Before us they leaped and stamped + and shook their spears and shouted out their full-voiced song, while the + other three tribes danced each its specialty dimly in the background. + </p> + <p> + The dance thus begun lasted for fully two hours. Each tribe took a turn + before us, only to give way to the next. We had leisure to notice + minutiae, such as the ingenious tail one of the “lions” had constructed + from a sweater. As time went on, the men worked themselves to a frenzy. + From the serried ranks every once in a while one would break forth with a + shriek to rush headlong into the fire, to beat the earth about him with + his club, to rush over to shake one of us violently by the hand, or even + to seize one of our feet between his two palms. Then with equal abruptness + back he darted to regain his place among the dancers. Wilder and wilder + became the movements, higher rose the voices. The mock lion hunt grew more + realistic, and the slaughter on both sides something tremendous. Lower and + lower crouched the Monumwezi, drawing apart with their deep “goom”; + drawing suddenly to a common centre with the sharp “zoop!” Only the + Kikuyus held their lofty bearing as they rolled forth their chant, but the + mounting excitement showed in their tense muscles and the rolling of their + eyes. The sweat glistened on naked black and bronze bodies. Among the + Monumwezi to my astonishment I saw Memba Sasa, stripped like the rest, and + dancing with all abandon. The firelight leaped high among the logs that + eager hands cast on it; and the shadows it threw from the swirling, + leaping figures wavered out into a great, calm darkness. + </p> + <p> + The night guard understood a little of the native languages, so he stood + behind our chairs and told us in Swahili the meaning of some of the + repeated phrases. + </p> + <p> + “This has been a glorious day; few safaris have had so glorious a day.” + </p> + <p> + “The masters looked upon the fierce lions and did not run away.” + </p> + <p> + “Brave men without other weapons will nevertheless kill with a knife.” + </p> + <p> + “The masters' mothers must be brave women, the masters are so brave.” + </p> + <p> + “The white woman went hunting, and so were many lions killed.” + </p> + <p> + The last one pleased Billy. She felt that at last she was appreciated. + </p> + <p> + We sat there spellbound by the weird savagery of the spectacle-the great + licking fire, the dancing, barbaric figures, the rise and fall of the + rhythm, the dust and shuffle, the ebb and flow of the dance, the dim, + half-guessed groups swaying in the darkness-and overhead the calm tropic + night. + </p> + <p> + At last, fairly exhausted, they stopped. Some one gave a signal. The men + all gathered in one group, uttered a final yell, very like a cheer, and + dispersed. + </p> + <p> + We called up the heroes of the day-Fundi and his companion-and made a + little speech, and bestowed appropriate reward. Then we turned in. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0016" id="link2H_4_0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XVI. FUNDI + </h2> + <p> + Fundi, as I have suggested, was built very much on the lines of the + marabout stork. He was about twenty years old, carried himself very erect, + and looked one straight in the eye. His total assets when he came to us + were a pair of raggedy white breeches, very baggy, and an old mesh + undershirt, ditto ditto. To this we added a jersey, a red blanket, and a + water bottle. At the first opportunity he constructed himself a pair of + rawhide sandals. + </p> + <p> + Throughout the first part of the trip he had applied himself to business + and carried his load. He never made trouble. Then he and his companion saw + five lions; and the chance Fundi had evidently long been awaiting came to + his hand. He ran himself almost into coma, exhibited himself game, and so + fell under our especial and distinguished notice. After participating + whole-heartedly in the lion dance he and his companion were singled out + for Our Distinguished Favour, to the extent of five rupees per. Thus far + Fundi's history reads just like the history of any ordinary Captain of + Industry. + </p> + <p> + Next morning, after the interesting ceremony of rewarding the worthy, we + moved on to a new camp. When the line-up was called for, lo! there stood + Fundi, without a load, but holding firmly my double-barrelled rifle. + Evidently he had seized the chance of favour-and the rifle-and intended to + be no longer a porter but a second gunbearer. + </p> + <p> + This looked interesting, so we said nothing. Fundi marched the day through + very proudly. At evening he deposited the rifle in the proper place, and + set to work with a will at raising the big tent. + </p> + <p> + The day following he tried it again. It worked. The third day he marched + deliberately up past the syce to take his place near me. And the fourth + day, as we were going hunting, Fundi calmly fell in with the rest. Nothing + had been said, but Fundi had definitely grasped his chance to rise from + the ranks. In this he differed from his companion in glory. That worthy + citizen pocketed his five rupees and was never heard from again; I do not + even remember his name nor how he looked. + </p> + <p> + I killed a buck of some sort, and Memba Sasa, as usual, stepped forward to + attend to the trophy. But I stopped him. + </p> + <p> + “Fundi,” said I, “if you are a gunbearer, prepare this beast.” + </p> + <p> + He stepped up confidently and set to work. I watched him closely. He did + it very well, without awkwardness, though he made one or two minor + mistakes in method. + </p> + <p> + “Have you done this before?” I inquired. + </p> + <p> + “No, bwana.” + </p> + <p> + “How did you learn to do it?” + </p> + <p> + “I have watched the gunbearers when I was a porter bringing in meat.” * + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Except in the greatest emergencies a gunbearer would never + think of carrying any sort of a burden. +</pre> + <p> + This was pleasing, but it would never do, at this stage of the game, to + let him think so, neither on his own account nor that of the real + gunbearers. + </p> + <p> + “You will bring in meat today also,” said I, for I was indeed a little + shorthanded, “and you will learn how to make the top incision straighter.” + </p> + <p> + When we had reached camp I handed him the Springfield. + </p> + <p> + “Clean this,” I told him. + </p> + <p> + He departed with it, returning it after a time for my inspection. It + looked all right. I catechized him on the method he had employed-for high + velocities require very especial treatment-and found him letter perfect. + </p> + <p> + “You learned this also by watching?” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, bwana, I watched the gunbearers by the fire, evenings.” + </p> + <p> + Evidently Fundi had been preparing for his chance. + </p> + <p> + Next day, as he walked alongside, I noticed that he had not removed the + leather cap, or sight protector, that covers the end of the rifle and is + fastened on by a leather thong. Immediately I called a halt. + </p> + <p> + “Fundi,” said I, “do you know that the cover should be in your pocket? + Suppose a rhinoceros jumps up very near at hand: how can you get time to + unlace the thong and hand me the rifle?” + </p> + <p> + He thrust the rifle at me suddenly. In some magical fashion the sight + cover had disappeared! + </p> + <p> + “I have thought of this,” said he, “and I have tied the thong, so, in + order that it come away with one pull; and I snatch it off, so, with my + left hand while I am giving you the gun with my right hand. It seemed good + to keep the cover on, for there are many branches, and the sight is very + easy to injure.” + </p> + <p> + Of course this was good sense, and most ingenious; Fundi bade fair to be + quite a boy, but the native African is very easily spoiled. Therefore, + although my inclination was strongly to praise him, I did nothing of the + sort. + </p> + <p> + “A gunbearer carries the gun away from the branches,” was my only comment. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after occurred an incident by way of deeper test. We were all + riding rather idly along the easy slope below the foothills. The grass was + short, so we thought we could see easily everything there was to be seen; + but, as we passed some thirty yards from a small tree, an unexpected and + unnecessary rhinoceros rose from an equally unexpected and unnecessary + green hollow beneath the tree, and charged us. He made straight for Billy. + Her mule, panic-stricken, froze with terror in spite of Billy's attack + with a parasol. I spurred my own animal between her and the charging + brute, with some vague idea of slipping off the other side as the rhino + struck. F. and B. leaped from their own animals, and F., with a little.28 + calibre rifle, took a hasty shot at the big brute. Now, of course a.28 + calibre rifle would hardly injure a rhino, but the bullet happened to + catch his right shoulder just as he was about to come down on his right + foot. The shock tripped him up as neatly as though he had been upset by a + rope. At the same instant Billy's mule came to its senses and bolted, + whereupon I too jumped off. The whole thing took about two finger snaps of + time. At the instant I hit the ground, Fundi passed the double rifle + across the horse's back to me. + </p> + <p> + Note two things to the credit of Fundi: in the first place, he had not + bolted; in the second place, instead of running up to the left side of my + mount and perhaps colliding with and certainly confusing me, he had come + up on the right side and passed the rifle to me ACROSS the horse. I do not + know whether or not he had figured this out beforehand, but it was + cleverly done. + </p> + <p> + The rhinoceros rolled over and over, like a shot rabbit, kicked for a + moment, and came to his feet. We were now all ready for him, in battle + array, but he had evidently had enough. He turned at right angles and + trotted off, apparently-and probably-none the worse for the little bullet + in his shoulder. + </p> + <p> + Fundi now began acquiring things that he supposed befitting to his + dignity. The first of these matters was a faded fez, in which he stuck a + long feather. From that he progressed in worldly wealth. How he got it + all, on what credit, or with what hypnotic power, I do not know. Probably + he hypothecated his wages, certainly he had his five rupees. + </p> + <p> + At any rate he started out with a ragged undershirt and a pair of white, + baggy breeches. He entered Nairobi at the end of the trip with a cap, a + neat khaki shirt, two water bottles, a cartridge belt, a sash with a + tassel, a pair of spiral puttees, an old pair of shoes, and a personal + private small boy, picked up en route from some of the savage tribes, to + carry his cooking pot, make his fires, draw his water, and generally + perform his lordly behests. This was indeed + “more-than-oriental-splendour!” + </p> + <p> + From now on Fundi considered himself my second gunbearer. I had no use for + him, but Fundi's development interested me, and I wanted to give him a + chance. His main fault at first was eagerness. He had to be rapped pretty + sharply and a good number of times before he discovered that he really + must walk in the rear. His habit of calling my attention to perfectly + obvious things I cured by liberal sarcasm. His intense desire to take his + own line as perhaps opposed to mine when we were casting about on trail, I + abated kindly but firmly with the toe of my boot. His evident but mistaken + tendency to consider himself on an equality with Memba Sasa we both + squelched by giving him the hard and dirty work to do. But his faults were + never those of voluntary omission, and he came on surprisingly; in fact so + surprisingly that he began to get quite cocky over it. Not that he was + ever in the least aggressive or disrespectful or neglectful-it would have + been easy to deal with that sort of thing-but he carried his head pretty + high, and evidently began to have mental reservations. Fundi needed a + little wholesome discipline. He was forgetting his porter days, and was + rapidly coming to consider himself a full-fledged gunbearer. + </p> + <p> + The occasion soon arose. We were returning from a buffalo hunt and ran + across two rhinoceroses, one of which carried a splendid horn. B. wanted a + well developed specimen very much, so we took this chance. The approach + was easy enough, and at seventy yards or so B. knocked her flat with a + bullet from his.465 Holland. The beast was immediately afoot, but was as + promptly smothered by shots from us all. So far the affair was very + simple, but now came complication. The second rhinoceros refused to leave. + We did not want to kill it, so we spent a lot of time and pains shooing it + away. We showered rocks and clods of earth in his direction; we yelled + sharply and whistled shrilly. The brute faced here and there, his pig eyes + blinking, his snout upraised, trying to locate us, and declining to budge. + At length he gave us up as hopeless, and trotted away slowly. We let him + go, and when we thought he had quite departed, we approached to examine + B.'s trophy. + </p> + <p> + Whereupon the other craftily returned; and charged us, snorting like an + engine blowing off steam. This was a genuine premeditated charge, as + opposed to a blind rush, and it is offered as a good example of the sort. + </p> + <p> + The rhinoceros had come fairly close before we got into action. He headed + straight for F. and myself, with B. a little to one side. Things happened + very quickly. F. and I each planted a heavy bullet in his head; while B. + sent a lighter Winchester bullet into the ribs. The rhino went down in a + heap eleven yards away, and one of us promptly shot him in the spine to + finish him. + </p> + <p> + Personally I was entirely concentrated in the matter at hand-as is always + the way in crises requiring action-and got very few impressions from + anything outside. Nevertheless I imagined, subconsciously that I had heard + four shots. F. and B. disclaimed more than one apiece, so I concluded + myself mistaken, exchanged my heavy rifle with Fundi for the lighter + Winchester, and we started for camp, leaving all the boys to attend to the + dead rhinos. At camp I threw down the lever of my Winchester-and drew out + an exploded shell! + </p> + <p> + Here was a double crime on Fundi's part. In the first place, he had fired + the gun, a thing no bearer is supposed ever to do in any circumstances + short of the disarmament and actual mauling of his master. Naturally this + is so, for the white man must be able in an emergency to depend ABSOLUTELY + on his second gun being loaded and ready for his need. In the second + place, Fundi had given me an empty rifle to carry home. Such a weapon is + worse than none in case of trouble; at least I could have gone up a tree + in the latter case. I would have looked sweet snapping that old cartridge + at anything dangerous! + </p> + <p> + Therefore after supper we stationed ourselves in a row before the fire, + seated in our canvas chairs, and with due formality sent word that we + wanted all the gunbearers. They came and stood before us. Memba Sasa + erect, military, compact, looking us straight in the eye; Mavrouki + slightly bent forward, his face alive with the little crafty, calculating + smile peculiar to him; Simba, tall and suave, standing with much social + ease; and Fundi, a trifle frightened, but uncertain as to whether or not + he had been found out. + </p> + <p> + We stated the matter in a few words. + </p> + <p> + “Gunbearers, this man Fundi, when the rhinoceros charged, fired Winchi. + Was this the work of a gunbearer?” + </p> + <p> + The three seasoned men looked at each other with shocked astonishment that + such depravity could exist. + </p> + <p> + “And being frightened, he gave back Winchi with the exploded cartridge in + her. Was that the work of a gunbearer?” + </p> + <p> + “No, bwana,” said Fundi humbly. + </p> + <p> + “You, the gunbearers, have been called because we wish to know what should + be done with this man Fundi.” + </p> + <p> + It should be here explained that it is not customary to kiboko, or flog, + men of the gunbearer class. They respect themselves and their calling, and + would never stand that sort of punishment. When one blunders, a sarcastic + scolding is generally sufficient; a more serious fault may be punished on + the spot by the white man's fist; or a really bad dereliction may cause + the man's instant degradation from the post. With this in mind we had + called the council of gunbearers. Memba Sasa spoke. + </p> + <p> + “Bwana,” said he, “this man is not a true gunbearer. He is no longer a + true porter. He carries a gun in the field, like a gunbearer; and he knows + much of the duty of gunbearer. Also he does not run away nor climb trees. + But he carries in the meat; and he is not a real gunbearer. He is half + porter and half gunbearer.” + </p> + <p> + “What punishment shall he have?” + </p> + <p> + “Kiboko,” said they. + </p> + <p> + “Thank you. Bass!” + </p> + <p> + They went, leaving Fundi. We surveyed him, quietly. + </p> + <p> + “You a gunbearer!” said we at last. “Memba Sasa says you are half + gunbearer. He was wrong. You are all porter; and you know no more than + they do. It is in our mind to put you back to carrying a load. If you do + not wish to taste the kiboko, you can take a load to-morrow.” + </p> + <p> + “The kiboko, bwana,” pleaded Fundi, very abashed and humble. + </p> + <p> + “Furthermore,” we added crushingly, “you did not even hit the rhinoceros!” + </p> + <p> + So with all ceremony he got the kiboko. The incident did him a lot of + good, and toned down his exuberance somewhat. Nevertheless he still + required a good deal of training, just as does a promising bird dog in its + first season. Generally his faults were of over-eagerness. Indeed, once he + got me thoroughly angry in face of another rhinoceros by dancing just out + of reach with the heavy rifle, instead of sticking close to me where I + could get at him. I temporarily forgot the rhino, and advanced on Fundi + with the full intention of knocking his fool head off. Whereupon this six + feet something of most superb and insolent pride wilted down to a small + boy with his elbow before his face. + </p> + <p> + “Don't hit, bwana! Don't hit!” he begged. + </p> + <p> + The whole thing was so comical, especially with Memba Sasa standing by + virtuous and scornful, that I had hard work to keep from laughing. + Fortunately the rhinoceros behaved himself. + </p> + <p> + The proud moment of Fundi's life was when safari entered Nairobi at the + end of the first expedition. He had gone forth with a load on his head, + rags on his back, and his only glory was the self-assumed one of the name + he had taken-Fundi, the Expert. He returned carrying a rifle, rigged from + top to toe in new garments and fancy accoutrements, followed by a toro, or + small boy, he had bought from some of the savage tribes to carry his + blanket and cooking pot for him. To the friends who darted out to the line + of march, he was gracious, but he held his head high, and had no time for + mere persiflage. + </p> + <p> + I did not take Fundi on my second expedition, for I had no real use for a + second gunbearer. Several times subsequently I saw him on the streets of + Nairobi. Always he came up to greet me, and ask solicitously if I would + not give him a job. This I was unable to do. When we paid off, I had made + an addition to his porter's wages, and had written him a chit. This said + that the boy had the makings of a gunbearer with further training. It + would have been unfair to possible white employers to have said more. + Fundi was, when I left the country, precisely in the position of any young + man who tries to rise in the world. He would not again take a load as + porter, and he was not yet skilled enough or known enough to pick up more + than stray jobs as gunbearer. Before him was struggle and hard times, with + a certainty of a highly considered profession if he won through. Behind + him was steady work without outlets for ambition. It was distinctly up to + him to prove whether he had done well to reach for ambition, or whether he + would have done better in contentment with his old lot. And that is in + essence a good deal like our own world isn't it? + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0017" id="link2H_4_0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XVII. NATIVES + </h2> + <p> + Up to this time, save for a few Masai at the very beginning of our trip, + we had seen no natives at all. Only lately, the night of the lion dance, + one of the Wanderobo-the forest hunters-had drifted in to tell us of + buffalo and to get some meat. He was a simple soul, small and capable, of + a beautiful red-brown, with his hair done up in a tight, short queue. He + wore three skewers about six inches long thrust through each of his ears, + three strings of blue beads on his neck, a bracelet tight around his upper + arm, a bangle around his ankle, a pair of rawhide sandals, and about a + half yard of cotton cloth which he hung from one shoulder. As weapons he + carried a round-headed, heavy club, or runga, and a long-bladed spear. He + led us to buffalo, accepted a thirty-three cent blanket, and made fire + with two sticks in about thirty seconds. The only other evidences of human + life we had come across were a few beehives suspended in the trees. These + were logs, bored hollow and stopped at either end. Some of them were very + quaintly carved. They hung in the trees like strange fruits. + </p> + <p> + Now, however, after leaving the Isiola, we were to quit the game country + and for days travel among the swarming millions of the jungle. + </p> + <p> + A few preliminary and entirely random observations may be permitted me by + way of clearing the ground for a conception of these people. These + observations do not pretend to be ethnological, nor even common logical. + </p> + <p> + The first thing for an American to realize is that our own negro + population came mainly from the West Coast, and differed utterly from + these peoples of the highlands in the East. Therefore one must first of + all get rid of the mental image of our own negro “dressed up” in savage + garb. Many of these tribes are not negro at all-the Somalis, the Nandi, + and the Masai, for example-while others belong to the negroid and Nilotic + races. Their colour is general cast more on the red-bronze than the black, + though the Kavirondos and some others are black enough. The texture of + their skin is very satiny and wonderful. This perfection is probably due + to the constant anointing of the body with oils of various sorts. As a + usual thing they are a fine lot physically. The southern Masai will + average between six and seven feet in height, and are almost invariably + well built. Of most tribes the physical development is remarkably strong + and graceful; and a great many of the women will display a rounded, firm, + high-breasted physique in marked contrast to the blacks of the lowlands. + Of the different tribes possibly the Kikuyus are apt to count the most + weakly and spindly examples: though some of these people, perhaps a + majority, are well made. + </p> + <p> + Furthermore, the native differentiates himself still further in impression + from our negro in his carriage and the mental attitude that lies behind + it. Our people are trying to pattern themselves on white men, and succeed + in giving a more or less shambling imitation thereof. The native has + standards, ideas, and ideals that perfectly satisfy him, and that + antedated the white man's coming by thousands of years. The consciousness + of this reflects itself in his outward bearing. He does not shuffle; he is + not either obsequious or impudent. Even when he acknowledges the white + man's divinity and pays it appropriate respect, he does not lose the poise + of his own well-worked-out attitude toward life and toward himself. + </p> + <p> + We are fond of calling these people primitive. In the world's standard of + measurement they are primitive, very primitive indeed. But ordinarily by + that term, we mean also undeveloped, embryonic. In that sense we are + wrong. Instead of being at the very dawn of human development, these + people are at the end-as far as they themselves are concerned. The + original racial impulse that started them down the years toward + development has fulfilled its duty and spent its force. They have worked + out all their problems, established all their customs, arranged the world + and its phenomena in a philosophy to their complete satisfaction. They + have lived, ethnologists tell us, for thousands, perhaps hundreds of + thousands of years, just as we find them to-day. From our standpoint that + is in a hopeless intellectual darkness, for they know absolutely nothing + of the most elementary subjects of knowledge. From their standpoint, + however, they have reached the highest DESIRABLE pinnacle of human + development. Nothing remains to be changed. Their customs, religions, and + duties have been worked out and immutably established long ago; and nobody + dreams of questioning either their wisdom or their imperative necessity. + They are the conservatives of the world. + </p> + <p> + Nor must we conclude-looking at them with the eyes of our own + civilization-that the savage is, from his standpoint, lazy and idle. His + life is laid out more rigidly than ours will be for a great many thousands + of years. From childhood to old age he performs his every act in accord + with prohibitions and requirements. He must remember them all; for + ignorance does not divert consequences. He must observe them all; in pain + of terrible punishments. For example, never may he cultivate on the site + of a grave; and the plants that spring up from it must never be cut.* He + must make certain complicated offerings before venturing to harvest a + crop. On crossing the first stream of a journey he must touch his lips + with the end of his wetted bow, wade across, drop a stone on the far side, + and then drink. If he cuts his nails, he must throw the parings into a + thicket. If he drink from a stream, and also cross it, he must eject a + mouthful of water back into the stream. He must be particularly careful + not to look his mother-in-law in the face. Hundreds of omens by the manner + of their happening may modify actions, as, on what side of the road a + woodpecker calls, or in which direction a hyena or jackal crosses the + path, how the ground hornbill flies or alights, and the like. He must + notice these things, and change his plans according to their occurrence. + If he does not notice them, they exercise their influence just the same. + This does not encourage a distrait mental attitude. Also it goes far to + explain otherwise unexplainable visitations. Truly, as Hobley says in his + unexcelled work on the A-Kamba, “the life of a savage native is a complex + matter, and he is hedged round by all sorts of rules and prohibitions, the + infringement of which will probably cause his death, if only by the + intense belief he has in the rules which guide his life.” + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Customs are not universal among the different tribes. I am + merely illustrating. +</pre> + <p> + For these rules and customs he never attempts to give a reason. They are; + and that is all there is to it. A mere statement: “This is the custom” + settles the matter finally. There is no necessity, nor passing thought + even, of finding any logical cause. The matter was worked out in the + mental evolution of remote ancestors. At that time, perhaps, insurgent and + Standpatter, Conservative and Radical fought out the questions of the day, + and the Muckrakers swung by their tails and chattered about it. Those days + are all long since over. The questions of the world are settled forever. + The people have passed through the struggles of their formative period to + the ultimate highest perfection of adjustment to material and spiritual + environment of which they were capable under the influence of their + original racial force. + </p> + <p> + Parenthetically, it is now a question whether or not an added impulse can + be communicated from without. Such an impulse must (a) unsettle all the + old beliefs, (b) inspire an era of skepticism, (c) reintroduce the old + struggle of ideas between the Insurgent and the Standpatter, and Radical + and the Conservative, (d) in the meantime furnish, from the older + civilization, materials, both in the thought-world and in the + object-world, for building slowly a new set of customs more closely + approximating those we are building for ourselves. This is a longer and + slower and more complicated affair than teaching the native to wear + clothes and sing hymns; or to build houses and drink gin; but it is what + must be accomplished step by step before the African peoples are really + civilized. I, personally, do not think it can be done. + </p> + <p> + Now having, a hundred thousand years or so ago, worked out the highest + good of the human race, according to them, what must they say to + themselves and what must their attitude be when the white man has come and + has unrolled his carpet of wonderful tricks? The dilemma is evident. + Either we, as black men, must admit that our hundred-thousand-year-old + ideas as to what constitutes the highest type of human relation to + environment is all wrong, or else we must evolve a new attitude toward + this new phenomena. It is human nature to do the latter. Therefore the + native has not abandoned his old gods; nor has he adopted a new. He still + believes firmly that his way is the best way of doing things, but he + acknowledges the Superman. + </p> + <p> + To the Superman, with all races, anything is possible. Only our Superman + is an idea, and ideal. The native has his Superman before him in the + actual flesh. + </p> + <p> + We will suppose that our own Superman has appeared among us, accomplishing + things that apparently contravene all our established tenets of skill, of + intellect, of possibility. It will be readily acknowledged that such an + individual would at first create some astonishment. He wanders into a + crowded hotel lobby, let us say, evidently with the desire of going to the + bar. Instead of pushing laboriously through the crowd, he floats just + above their heads, gets his drink, and floats out again! That is + levitation, and is probably just as simple to him as striking a match is + to you and me. After we get thoroughly accustomed to him and his life, we + are no longer vastly astonished, though always interested, at the various + manifestations of his extraordinary powers. We go right along using the + marvellous wireless, aeroplanes, motor cars, constructive machinery, and + the like that make us confident-justly, of course-in that we are about the + smartest lot of people on earth. And if we see red, white, and blue + streamers of light crossing the zenith at noon, we do not manifest any + very profound amazement. “There's that confounded Superman again,” we + mutter, if we happen to be busy. “I wonder what stunt he's going to do + now!” + </p> + <p> + A consideration of the above beautiful fable may go a little way toward + explaining the supposed native stolidity in the face of the white man's + wonders. A few years ago some misguided person brought a balloon to + Nairobi. The balloon interested the white people a lot, but everybody was + chiefly occupied wondering what the natives would do when they saw THAT! + The natives did not do anything. They gathered in large numbers, and most + interestedly watched it go up, and then went home again. But they were not + stricken with wonder to any great extent. So also with locomotives, motor + cars, telephones, phonographs-any of our modern ingenuities. The native is + pleased and entertained, but not astonished. “Stupid creature, no + imagination,” say we, because our pride in showing off is a wee bit hurt. + </p> + <p> + Why should he be astonished? His mental revolution took place when he saw + the first match struck. It is manifestly impossible for any one to make + fire instantaneously by rubbing one small stick. When for the first time + he saw it done, he was indeed vastly astounded. The immutable had been + changed. The law had been transcended. The impossible had been + accomplished. And then, as logical sequence, his mind completed the + syllogism. If the white man can do this impossibility, why not all the + rest? To defy the laws of nature by flying in the air or forcing great + masses of iron to transport one, is no more wonderful than to defy them by + striking a light. Since the white man can provedly do one, what earthly + reason exists why he should not do anything else that hits his fancy? + There is nothing to get astonished at. + </p> + <p> + This does not necessarily mean that the native looks on the white man as a + god. On the contrary, your African is very shrewd in the reading of + character. But indubitably white men possess great magic, uncertain in its + extent. + </p> + <p> + That is as far as I should care to go, without much deeper acquaintance, + into the attitude of the native mind toward the whites. A superficial + study of it, beyond the general principals I have enunciated, discloses + many strange contradictions. The native respects the white man's warlike + skill, he respects his physical prowess, he certainly acknowledges tacitly + his moral superiority in the right to command. In case of dispute he likes + the white man's adjudication; in case of illness the man's medicine; in + case of trouble the white man's sustaining hand. Yet he almost never + attempts to copy the white man's appearance or ways of doing things. His + own savage customs and habits he fulfils with as much pride as ever in + their eternal fitness. Once I was badgering Memba Sasa, asking him whether + he thought the white skin or the black skin the more ornamental. “You are + not white,” he retorted at last. “That,” pointing to a leaf of my + notebook, “is white. You are red. I do not like the looks of red people.” + </p> + <p> + They call our speech the “snake language,” because of its hissing sound. + Once this is brought to your attention, indeed, you cannot help noticing + the superabundance of the sibilants. + </p> + <p> + A queer melange the pigeonholes of an African's brain must contain-fear + and respect, strongly mingled with clear estimate of intrinsic character + of individuals and a satisfaction with his own standards. + </p> + <p> + Nor, I think, do we realize sufficiently the actual fundamental + differences between the African and our peoples. Physically they must be + in many ways as different from our selves as though they actually belonged + to a different species. The Masai are a fine big race, enduring, well + developed and efficient. They live exclusively on cow's milk mixed with + blood; no meat, no fruit, no vegetables, no grain; just that and nothing + more. Obviously they must differ from us most radically, or else all our + dietetic theories are wrong. It is a well-known fact that any native + requires a triple dose of white man's medicine. Furthermore a native's + sensitiveness to pain is very much less than the white man's. This is + indubitable. For example, the Wakamba file-or, rather, chip, by means of a + small chisel-all their front teeth down to needle points, When these + happen to fall out, the warrior substitutes an artificial tooth which he + drives down into the socket. If the savage got the same effects from such + a performance that a white man's dental system would arouse, even “savage + stoicism” would hardly do him much good. There is nothing to be gained by + multiplying examples. Every African traveller can recall a thousand. + </p> + <p> + Incidentally, and by the way, I want to add to the milk-and-blood joke on + dietetics another on the physical culturists. We are all familiar with the + wails over the loss of our toe nails. You know what I mean; they run + somewhat like this: shoes are the curse of civilization; if we wear them + much longer we shall not only lose the intended use of our feet, but we + shall lose our toe nails as well; the savage man, etc., etc., etc. Now I + saw a great many of said savage men in Africa, and I got much interested + in their toe nails, because I soon found that our own civilized + “imprisoned” toe nails were very much better developed. In fact, a large + number of the free and untramelled savages have hardly any toe nails at + all! Whether this upsets a theory, nullifies a sentimental protest, or + merely stands as an exception, I should not dare guess. But the fact is + indubitable. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0018" id="link2H_4_0018"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XVIII. IN THE JUNGLE + </h2> + <p> + (a) THE MARCH TO MERU + </p> + <p> + Now, one day we left the Isiola River and cut across on a long upward + slant to the left. In a very short time we had left the plains, and were + adrift in an ocean of brown grass that concealed all but the bobbing loads + atop the safari, and over which we could only see when mounted. It was + glorious feed, apparently, but it contained very few animals for all that. + An animal could without doubt wax fat and sleek therein: but only to + furnish light and salutary meals to beasts of prey. Long grass makes easy + stalking. We saw a few ostriches, some giraffe, and three or four singly + adventurous oryx. The ripening grasses were softer than a rippling field + grain; and even more beautiful in their umber and browns. Although + apparently we travelled a level, nevertheless in the extreme distance the + plains of our hunting were dropping below, and the far off mountains were + slowly rising above the horizon. On the other side were two very green + hills, looking nearly straight up and down, and through a cleft the + splintered snow-clad summit of Mt. Kenia. + </p> + <p> + At length this gentle foothill slope broke over into rougher country. + Then, in the pass, we came upon many parallel beaten paths, wider and + straighter than the game trails-native tracks. That night we camped in a + small, round valley under some glorious trees, with green grass around us; + a refreshing contrast after the desert brown. In the distance ahead stood + a big hill, and at its base we could make out amid the tree-green, the + straight slim smoke of many fires and the threads of many roads. + </p> + <p> + We began our next morning's march early, and we dropped over the hill into + a wide, cultivated valley. Fields of grain, mostly rape, were planted + irregularly among big scattered trees. The morning air, warming under the + sun, was as yet still, and carried sound well. The cooing, chattering and + calling of thousands of birds mingled with shouts and the clapping + together of pieces of wood. As we came closer we saw that every so often + scaffolds had been erected overlooking the grain, and on these scaffolds + naked boys danced and yelled and worked clappers to scare the birds from + the crops. They seemed to put a great deal of rigour into the job; whether + from natural enthusiasm or efficient direful supervision I could not say. + Certainly they must have worked in watches, however; no human being could + keep up that row continuously for a single day, let alone the whole season + of ripening grain. As we passed they fell silent and stared their fill. + </p> + <p> + On the banks of a boggy little stream that we had to flounder across we + came on a gentleman and lady travelling. They were a tall, well formed + pair, mahogany in colour, with the open, pleasant expression of most of + these jungle peoples. The man wore a string around his waist into which + was thrust a small leafy branch; the woman had on a beautiful skirt made + by halving a banana leaf, using the stem as belt, and letting the leaf + part hang down as a skirt. Shortly after meeting these people we turned + sharp to the right on a well beaten road. + </p> + <p> + For nearly two weeks we were to follow this road, so it may be as well to + get an idea of it. Its course was a segment of about a sixth of the circle + of Kenia's foothills. With Kenia itself as a centre, this road swung among + the lower elevations about the base of that great mountain. Its course was + mainly down and up hundreds of the canyons radiating from the main peak, + and over the ridges between them. No sooner were we down, than we had to + climb up; and no sooner were we up, than once more down we had to plunge. + At times, however, we crossed considerable plateaus. Most of this country + was dense jungle, so dense that we could not see on either side more than + fifteen or twenty feet. Occasionally, atop the ridges, however, we would + come upon small open parks. In these jungles live millions of human + beings. + </p> + <p> + At once, as soon as we had turned into the main road, we began to meet + people. In the grain fields of the valley we saw only the elevated boys, + and a few men engaged in weaving a little house perched on stilts. We came + across some of these little houses all completed, with conical roofs. They + were evidently used for granaries. As we mounted the slope on the other + side, however, the trees closed in, and we found ourselves marching down + the narrow aisle of the jungle itself. + </p> + <p> + It was a dense and beautiful jungle, with very tall trees and the deepest + shade; and the impenetrable tangle to the edge of the track. Among the + trees were the broad leaves of bananas and palms, the fling of leafy + vines. Over the track these leaned, so that we rode through splashing and + mottling shade. Nothing could have seemed wilder than this apparently + impenetrable and yet we had ridden but a short distance before we realized + that we were in fact passing through cultivated land. It was, again, only + a difference in terms. Native cultivation in this district rarely consists + of clearing land and planting crops in due order, but in leaving the + forest proper as it is, and in planting foodstuffs haphazard wherever a + tiny space can be made for even three hills of corn or a single banana. + Thus they add to rather than subtract from the typical density of the + jungle. At first, we found, it took some practice to tell a farm when we + saw it. + </p> + <p> + From the track narrow little paths wound immediately out of sight. + Sometimes we saw a wisp of smoke rising above the undergrowth and eddying + in the tops of the trees. Long vine ropes swung from point to point, hung + at intervals with such matters as feathers, bones, miniature shields, + carved sticks, shells and clappers: either as magic or to keep off the + birds. From either side the track we were conscious always of bright black + eyes watching us. Sometimes we caught a glimpse of their owners crouched + in the bush, concealed behind banana leaves, motionless and straight + against a tree trunk. When they saw themselves observed they vanished + without a sound. + </p> + <p> + The upper air was musical with birds, and bright with the flutter of their + wings. Rarely did we see them long enough to catch a fair idea of their + size and shape. They flashed from shade to shade, leaving only an + impression of brilliant colour. There were some exceptions: as the + widower-bird, dressed all in black, with long trailing wing-plumes of + which he seemed very proud; and the various sorts of green pigeons and + parrots. There were many flowering shrubs and trees, and the air was laden + with perfume. Strange, too, it seemed to see tall trees with leaves three + or four feet long and half as many wide. + </p> + <p> + We were riding a mile or so ahead of the safari. At first we were + accompanied only by our gunbearers and syces. Before long, however, we + began to accumulate a following. + </p> + <p> + This consisted at first of a very wonderful young man, probably a chief's + son. He carried a long bright spear, wore a short sword thrust through a + girdle, had his hair done in three wrapped queues, one over each temple + and one behind, and was generally brought to a high state of polish by + means of red earth and oil. About his knee he wore a little bell that + jingled pleasingly at every step. From one shoulder hung a goat-skin cloak + embroidered with steel beads. A small package neatly done up in leaves + probably contained his lunch. He teetered along with a mincing up and down + step, every movement, and the expression of his face displaying a fatuous + self-satisfaction. When we looked back again this youth had magically + become two. Then appeared two women and a white goat. All except the goat + were dressed for visiting, with long chains of beads, bracelets and + anklets, and heavy ornaments in the distended ear lobes. The manner people + sprang apparently out of the ground was very disconcerting. It was a good + deal like those fairy-story moving pictures where a wave of the wand + produces beautiful ladies. By half an hour we had acquired a long + retinue-young warriors, old men, women and innumerable children. After we + had passed, the new recruits stepped quietly from the shadow of the jungle + and fell in. Every one with nothing much to do evidently made up his mind + he might as well go to Meru now as any other time. + </p> + <p> + Also we met a great number of people going in the other direction. Women + were bearing loads of yams. Chiefs' sons minced along, their spears poised + in their left hands at just the proper angle, their bangles jingling, + their right hands carried raised in a most affected manner. Their social + ease was remarkable, especially in contrast with the awkwardness of the + lower poverty-stricken or menial castes. The latter drew one side to let + us pass, and stared. Our chiefs' sons, on the other hand, stepped + springingly and beamingly forward; spat carefully in their hands (we did + the same); shook hands all down the line: exchanged a long-drawn + “moo-o-ga!” with each of us; and departed at the same springing rapid + gait. The ordinary warriors greeted us, but did not offer to shake hands, + thank goodness! There were a great many of them. Across the valleys and + through the open spaces the sun, as it struck down the trail, was always + flashing back from distant spears. Twice we met flocks of sheep being + moved from one point to another. Three or four herdsmen and innumerable + small boys seemed to be in charge. Occasionally we met a real chief or + headman of a village, distinguished by the fact that he or a servant + carried a small wooden stool. With these dignitaries we always stopped to + exchange friendly words. + </p> + <p> + These comprised the travelling public. The resident public also showed + itself quite in evidence. Once our retainers had become sufficiently + numerous to inspire confidence, the jungle people no longer hid. On the + contrary, they came out to the very edge of the track to exchange + greetings. They were very good-natured, exceedingly well-formed, and quite + jocular with our boys. Especially did our suave and elegant Simba sparkle. + This resident public, called from its daily labours and duties, did not + always show as gaudy a make-up as did the dressed-up travelling public. + Banana leaves were popular wear, and seemed to us at once pretty and + fresh. To be sure some had rather withered away; but even wool will + shrink. We saw some grass skirts, like the Sunday-school pictures. + </p> + <p> + At noon we stopped under a tree by a little stream for lunch. Before long + a dozen women were lined up in front of us staring at Billy with all their + might. She nodded and smiled at them. Thereupon they sent one of their + number away. The messenger returned after a few moments carrying a bunch + of the small eating bananas which she laid at our feet. Billy fished some + beads out of her saddle bags, and presented them. Friendly relations + having been thus fully established, two or three of the women scurried + hastily away, to return a few moments later each with her small child. To + these infants they carefully and earnestly pointed out Billy and her + wonders, talking in a tongue unknown to us. The admonition undoubtedly ran + something like this: + </p> + <p> + “Now, my child, look well at this: for when you get to be a very old + person you will be able to look back at the day when with your own eyes + you beheld a white woman. See all the strange things she wears-and HASN'T + she a funny face?” + </p> + <p> + We offered these bung-eyed and totally naked youngsters various bribes in + the way of beads, the tinfoil from chocolate, and even a small piece of + the chocolate itself. Most of them howled and hid their faces against + their mothers. The mothers looked scandalized, and hypocritically + astounded, and mortified. + </p> + <p> + They made remarks, still in an unknown language, but which much past + experience enabled me to translate very readily: + </p> + <p> + “I don't know what has got into little Willie,” was the drift of it. “I + have never known him to act this way before. Why, only yesterday I was + saying to his father that it really seemed as though that child NEVER + cried-” + </p> + <p> + It made me feel quite friendly and at home. + </p> + <p> + Now at last came two marvellous and magnificent personages before whom the + women and children drew back to a respectful distance. These potentates + squatted down and smiled at us engagingly. Evidently this was a really + important couple, so we called up Simba, who knew the language, and had a + talk. + </p> + <p> + They were old men, straight, and very tall, with the hawk-faced, + high-headed dignity of the true aristocrat. Their robes were voluminous, + of some short-haired skins, beautifully embroidered. Around their arms + were armlets of polished buffalo horn. They wore most elaborate ear + ornaments, and long cased marquise rings extending well beyond the first + joints of the fingers. Very fine old gentlemen. They were quite unarmed. + </p> + <p> + After appropriate greetings, we learned that these were the chief and his + prime minister of a nearby village hidden in the jungle. We exchanged + polite phrases; then offered tobacco. This was accepted. From the jungle + came a youth carrying more bananas. We indicated our pleasure. The old men + arose with great dignity and departed, sweeping the women and children + before them. + </p> + <p> + We rode on. Our acquired retinue, which had waited at a respectful + distance, went on too. I suppose they must have desired the prestige of + being attached to Our Persons. In the depths of the forest Billy succumbed + to the temptation to bargain, and made her first trade. Her prize was a + long water gourd strapped with leather and decorated with cowry shells. + Our boys were completely scandalized at the price she paid for it, so I + fear the wily savage got ahead of her. + </p> + <p> + About the middle of the afternoon we sat down to wait for the safari to + catch up. It would never do to cheat our boys out of their anticipated + grand entrance to the Government post at Meru. We finally debouched from + the forest to the great clearing at the head of a most impressive + procession, flags flying, oryx horns blowing, boys chanting and beating + the sides of their loads with the safari sticks. As there happened to be + gathered, at this time, several thousand of warriors for the purpose of a + council, or shauri, with the District Commissioner we had just the + audience to delight our barbaric hearts. + </p> + <p> + (b) MERU + </p> + <p> + The Government post at Meru is situated in a clearing won from the forest + on the first gentle slopes of Kenia's ranges. The clearing is a very large + one, and on it the grass grows green and short, like a lawn. It resembles, + as much as anything else, the rolling, beautiful downs of a first-class + country club, and the illusion is enhanced by the Commissioner's house + among some trees atop a hill. Well-kept roadways railed with rustic fences + lead from the house to the native quarters lying in the hollow and to the + Government offices atop another hill. Then also there are the quarters of + the Nubian troops; round low houses with conical grass roofs. + </p> + <p> + These, and the presence everywhere of savages, rather take away from the + first country-club effect. A corral seemed full of a seething mob of + natives; we found later that this was the market, a place of exchange. + Groups wandered idly here and there across the greensward; and other + groups sat in circles under the shade of trees, each man's spear stuck in + the ground behind him. At stated points were the Nubians, fine, tall, + black, soldierly men, with red fez, khaki shirt, and short breeches, bare + knees and feet, spiral puttees, and a broad red sash of webbing. One of + these soldiers assigned us a place to camp. We directed our safari there, + and then immediately rode over to pay our respects to the Commissioner. + </p> + <p> + The latter, Horne by name, greeted us with the utmost cordiality, and + offered us cool drinks. Then we accompanied him to a grand shauri or + council of chiefs. + </p> + <p> + Horne was a little chap, dressed in flannels and a big slouch hat, + carrying only a light rawhide whip, with very little of the dignity and + “side” usually considered necessary in dealing with wild natives. The post + at Meru had been established only two years, among a people that had + always been very difficult, and had only recently ceased open hostilities. + Nevertheless in that length of time Horne's personal influence had won + them over to positive friendliness. He had, moreover, done the entire + construction work of the post itself; and this we now saw to be even more + elaborate than we had at first realized. Irrigating ditches ran in all + directions brimming with clear mountain water; the roads and paths were + rounded, graded and gravelled; the houses were substantial, well built and + well kept; fences, except of course the rustic, were whitewashed; the + native quarters and “barracks” were well ranged and in perfect order. The + place looked ten years old instead of only two. + </p> + <p> + We followed Horne to an enclosure, outside the gate of which were stacked + a great number of spears. Inside we found the owners of those spears + squatted before the open side of a small, three-walled building containing + a table and a chair. Horne placed himself in the chair, lounged back, and + hit the table smartly with his rawhide whip. From the centre of the throng + an old man got up and made quite a long speech. When he had finished + another did likewise. All was carried out with the greatest decorum. After + four or five had thus spoken, Horne, without altering his lounging + attitude, spoke twenty or thirty words, rapped again on the table with his + rawhide whip, and immediately came over to us. + </p> + <p> + “Now,” said he cheerfully, “we'll have a game of golf.” + </p> + <p> + That was amusing, but not astonishing. Most of us have at one time or + another laid out a scratch hole or so somewhere in the vacant lot. We + returned to the house, Horne produced a sufficiency of clubs, and we + sallied forth. Then came the surprise of our life! We played eighteen + holes-eighteen, mind you-over an excellently laid-out and kept-up course! + The fair greens were cropped short and smooth by a well-managed small herd + of sheep; the putting greens were rolled, and in perfect order; bunkers + had been located at the correct distances; there were water hazards in the + proper spots. In short, it was a genuine, scientific, well-kept golf + course. Over it played Horne, solitary except on the rare occasions when + he and his assistant happened to be at the post at the same time. The + nearest white man was six days' journey; the nearest small civilization + 196 miles.* The whole affair was most astounding. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Which was, in turn, over three hundred miles from the + next. +</pre> + <p> + Our caddies were grinning youngsters a good deal like the Gold Dust Twins. + They wore nothing but our golf bags. Afield were other supernumerary + caddies: one in case we sliced, one in case we pulled, and one in case we + drove straight ahead. Horne explained that unlimited caddies were easier + to get than unlimited golf balls. I can well believe it. + </p> + <p> + F. joined forces with Horne against B. and me for a grand international + match. I regret to state that America was defeated by two holes. + </p> + <p> + We returned to find our camp crowded with savages. In a short time we had + established trade relations and were doing a brisk business. Two years + before we should have had to barter exclusively; but now, thanks to + Horne's attempt to collect an annual hut tax, money was some good. We had, + however, very good luck with bright blankets and cotton cloth. Our beads + did not happen here to be in fashion. Probably three months earlier or + later we might have done better with them. The feminine mind here differs + in no basic essential from that of civilization. Fashions change as + rapidly, as often and as completely in the jungle as in Paris. The trader + who brings blue beads when blue beads have “gone out” might just as well + have stayed at home. We bought a number of the pretty “marquise” rings for + four cents apiece (our money), some war clubs or rungas for the same, + several spears, armlets, stools and the like. Billy thought one of the + short, soft skin cloaks embroidered with steel beads might be nice to hang + on the wall. We offered a youth two rupees for one. This must have been a + high price, for every man in hearing of the words snatched off his cloak + and rushed forward holding it out. As that reduced his costume to a few + knick-knacks, Billy retired from the busy mart until we could arrange + matters. + </p> + <p> + We dined with Horne. His official residence was most interesting. The main + room was very high to beams and a grass-thatched roof, with a well-brushed + earth floor covered with mats. It contained comfortable furniture, a small + library, a good phonograph, tables, lamps and the like. When the mountain + chill descended, Horne lit a fire in a coal-oil can with a perforated + bottom. What little smoke was produced by the clean burning wood lost + itself far aloft. Leopard skins and other trophies hung on the wall. We + dined in another room at a well-appointed table. After dinner we sat up + until the unheard of hour of ten o'clock discussing at length many matters + that interested us. Horne told us of his personal bodyguard consisting of + one son from each chief of his wide district. These youths were encouraged + to make as good an appearance as possible, and as a consequence turned out + in the extreme of savage gorgeousness. Horne spoke of them carelessly as a + “matter of policy in keeping the different tribes well disposed,” but I + thought he was at heart a little proud of them. Certainly, later and from + other sources, we heard great tales of their endurance, devotion and + efficiency. Also we heard that Horne had cut in half his six months' leave + (earned by three years' continuous service in the jungle) to hurry back + from England because he could not bear the thought of being absent from + the first collection of the hut tax! He is a good man. + </p> + <p> + We said good-night to him and stepped from the lighted house into the vast + tropical night. The little rays of our lantern showed us the inequalities + of the ground, and where to step across the bubbling, little irrigation + streams. But thousands of stars insisted on a simplification. The broad, + rolling meadows of the clearing lay half guessed in the dim light; and + about its edge was the velvet band of the forest, dark and mysterious, + stretching away for leagues into the jungle. From it near at hand, far + away, came the rhythmic beating of solemn great drums, and the rising and + falling chants of the savage peoples. + </p> + <p> + (C) THE CHIEFS + </p> + <p> + We left Meru well observed by a very large audience, much to the delight + of our safari boys, who love to show off. We had acquired fourteen more + small boys, or totos, ranging in age from eight to twelve years. These had + been fitted out by their masters to alleviate their original shenzi + appearance of savagery. Some had ragged blankets, which they had already + learned to twist turban wise around their heads; others had ragged old + jerseys reaching to their knees, or the wrecks of full-grown undershirts; + one or two even sported baggy breeches a dozen sizes too large. Each + carried his little load, proudly, atop his head like a real porter, + sufurias or cooking pots, the small bags of potio, and the like. Inside a + mile they had gravitated together and with the small boy's relish for + imitation and for playing a game, had completed a miniature safari + organization of their own. Thenceforth they marched in a compact little + company, under orders of their “headman.” They marched very well, too, + straight and proud and tireless. Of course we inspected their loads to see + that they were not required to carry too much for their strength; but, I + am bound to say, we never discovered an attempt at overloading. In fact, + the toto brigade was treated very well indeed. M'ganga especially took + great interest in their education and welfare. One of my most vivid camp + recollections is that of M'ganga, very benign and didactic, seated on a + chop box and holding forth to a semicircle of totos squatted on the ground + before him. On reaching camp totos had several clearly defined duties: + they must pick out good places for their masters' individual camps, they + must procure cooking stones, they must collect kindling wood and start + fires, they must fill the sufurias with water and set them over to boil. + In the meantime, their masters were attending to the pitching of the + bwana's camp. The rest of the time the toto played about quite happily, + and did light odd jobs, or watched most attentively while his master + showed him small details of a safari-boy's duty, or taught him simple + handicraft. Our boys seemed to take great pains with their totos and to + try hard to teach them. + </p> + <p> + Also at Meru we had acquired two cocks and four hens of the ridiculously + small native breed. These rode atop the loads: their feet were tied to the + cords and there they swayed and teetered and balanced all day long, + apparently quite happy and interested. At each new camp site they were + released and went scratching and clucking around among the tents. They + lent our temporary quarters quite a settled air of domesticity. We named + the cocks Gaston and Alphonse and somehow it was rather fine, in the + blackness before dawn, to hear these little birds crowing stout-heartedly + against the great African wilderness. Neither Gaston, Alphonse nor any of + their harem were killed and eaten by their owners; but seemed rather to + fulfil the function of household pets. + </p> + <p> + Along the jungle track we met swarms of people coming in to the post. One + large native safari composed exclusively of women were transporting loads + of trade goods for the Indian trader. They carried their burdens on their + backs by means of a strap passing over the top of the head; our own “tump + line” method. The labour seemed in no way to have dashed their spirits, + for they grinned at us, and joked merrily with our boys. Along the way, + every once in a while, we came upon people squatted down behind small + stocks of sugarcane, yams, bananas, and the like. With these our boys did + a brisk trade. Little paths led mysteriously into the jungle. Down them + came more savages to greet us. Everybody was most friendly and cheerful, + thanks to Horne's personal influence. Two years before this same lot had + been hostile. From every hidden village came the headmen or chiefs. They + all wanted to shake hands-the ordinary citizen never dreamed of aspiring + to that honour-and they all spat carefully into their palms before they + did so. This all had to be done in passing; for ordinary village headmen + it was beneath Our Dignity to draw rein. Once only we broke over this + rule. That was in the case of an old fellow with white hair who managed to + get so tangled up in the shrubbery that he could not get to us. He was so + frantic with disappointment that we made an exception and waited. + </p> + <p> + About three miles out, we lost one of our newly acquired totos. Reason: an + exasperated parent who had followed from Meru for the purpose of + reclaiming his runaway offspring. The latter was dragged off howling. + Evidently he, like some of his civilized cousins, had “run away to join + the circus.” As nearly as we could get at it, the rest of the totos, as + well as the nine additional we picked up before we quitted the jungle, had + all come with their parents' consent. In fact, we soon discovered that we + could buy any amount of good sound totos, not house broke however, for an + average of half a rupee (16-1/2 cents) apiece. + </p> + <p> + The road was very much up and down hill over the numerous ridges that + star-fish out from Mt. Kenia. We would climb down steep trails from 200 to + 800 feet (measured by aneroid), cross an excellent mountain stream of + crystalline dashing water, and climb out again. The trails of course had + no notion of easy grades. It was very hard work, especially for men with + loads; and it would have been impossible on account of the heat were it + not for the numerous streams. On the slopes and in the bottoms were + patches of magnificent forest; on the crests was the jungle, and + occasionally an outlook over extended views. The birds and the strange + tropical big-leaved trees were a constant delight-exotic and strange. + Billy was in a heaven of joy, for her specialty in Africa was plants, + seeds and bulbs, for her California garden. She had syces, gunbearers and + tent boys all climbing, shaking branches, and generally pawing about. + </p> + <p> + This idiosyncracy of Billy's puzzled our boys hugely. At first they tried + telling her that everything was poisonous; but when that did not work, + they resigned themselves to their fate. In fact, some of the most + enterprising like Memba Sasa, Kitaru, and, later, Kongoni used of their + own accord to hunt up and bring in seeds and blossoms. They did not in the + least understand what it was for; and it used to puzzle them hugely until + out of sheer pity for their uneasiness, I implied that the Memsahib + collected “medicine.” That was rational, so the wrinkled brow of care was + smoothed. From this botanical trait, Billy got her native name of “Beebee + Kooletta”—“The Lady Who Says: Go Get That.” For in Africa every white man + has a name by which he is known among the native people. If you would get + news of your friends, you must know their local cognomens-their own white + man names will not do at all. For example, I was called either Bwana + Machumwani or Bwana N'goma. The former means merely Master Four-eyes, + referring to my glasses. The precise meaning of the latter is a matter + much disputed between myself and Billy. An N'goma is a native dance, + consisting of drum poundings, chantings, and hoppings around. Therefore I + translate myself (most appropriately) as the Master who Makes Merry. On + the other hand, Billy, with true feminine indirectness, insists that it + means “The Master who Shouts and Howls.” I leave it to any fairminded + reader. + </p> + <p> + About the middle of the morning we met a Government runner, a proud youth, + young, lithe, with many ornaments and bangles; his red skin glistening; + the long blade of his spear, bound around with a red strip to signify his + office, slanting across his shoulder; his buffalo hide shield slung from + it over his back; the letter he was bearing stuck in a cleft stick and + carried proudly before him as a priest carries a cross to the heathen-in + the pictures. He was swinging along at a brisk pace, but on seeing us drew + up and gave us a smart military salute. + </p> + <p> + At one point where the path went level and straight for some distance, we + were riding in an absolute solitude. Suddenly from the jungle on either + side and about fifty yards ahead of us leaped a dozen women. They were + dressed in grass skirts, and carried long narrow wooden shields painted + white and brown. These they clashed together, shrieked shrilly, and + charged down on us at full speed. When within a few yards of our horses + noses they came to a sudden halt, once more clashed their shields, + shrieked, turned and scuttled away as fast as their legs could carry them. + At a hundred yards they repeated the performance; and charged back at us + again. Thus advancing and retreating, shrieking high, hitting the wooden + shields with resounding crash, they preceded our slow advance for a half + mile or so. Then at some signal unperceived by us they vanished abruptly + into the jungle. Once more we rode forward in silence and in solitude. Why + they did it I could not say. + </p> + <p> + Of this tissue were our days made. At noon our boys plucked us each two or + three banana leaves which they spread down for us to lie on. Then we dozed + through the hot hours in great comfort, occasionally waking to blue sky + through green trees, or to peer idly into the tangled jungle. At two + o'clock or a little later we would arouse ourselves reluctantly and move + on. The safari we had dimly heard passing us an hour before. In this + country of the direct track we did not attempt to accompany our men. + </p> + <p> + The end of the day's march found us in a little clearing where we could + pitch camp. Generally this was atop a ridge, so that the boys had some + distance to carry water; but that disadvantage was outweighed by the + cleared space. Sometimes we found ourselves hemmed in by a wall of jungle. + Again we enjoyed a broad outlook. One such in especial took in the + magnificent, splintered, snow-capped peak of Kenia on the right, a + tremendous gorge and rolling forested mountains straight ahead, and a + great drop to a plain with other and distant mountains to the left. It was + as fine a panoramic view as one could imagine. + </p> + <p> + Our tents pitched, and ourselves washed and refreshed, we gave audience to + the resident chief, who had probably been waiting. With this potentate we + conversed affably, after the usual expectoratorial ceremonies. Billy, + being a mere woman, did not always come in for this; but nevertheless she + maintained what she called her “quarantine gloves,” and kept them very + handy. We had standing orders with our boys for basins of hot water to be + waiting always behind our tents. After the usual polite exchanges we + informed the chief of our needs-firewood, perhaps, milk, a sheep or the + like. These he furnished. When we left we made him a present of a few + beads, a knife, a blanket or such according to the value of his + contribution. + </p> + <p> + To me these encounters were some of the most interesting of our many + experiences, for each man differed radically from every other in his + conceptions of ceremony, in his ideas, and in his methods. Our coming was + a good deal of an event, always, and each chief, according to his + temperament and training, tried to do things up properly. And in that + attempt certain basic traits of human nature showed in the very strongest + relief. Thus there are three points of view to take in running any + spectacle: that of the star performer, the stage manager, or the truly + artistic. We encountered well-marked specimens of each. I will tell you + about them. + </p> + <p> + The star performer knew his stagecraft thoroughly; and in the exposition + of his knowledge he showed incidentally how truly basic are the principles + of stagecraft anywhere. + </p> + <p> + We were seated under a tree near the banks of a stream eating our lunch. + Before us appeared two tall and slender youths, wreathed in smiles, + engaging, and most attentive to the small niceties of courtesy. We + returned their greeting from our recumbent positions, whereupon they made + preparation to squat down beside us. + </p> + <p> + “Are you sultans?” we demanded sternly, “that you attempt to sit in Our + Presence,” and we lazily kicked the nearest. + </p> + <p> + Not at all abashed, but favourably impressed with our transcendent + importance-as we intended-they leaned gracefully on their spears and + entered into conversation. After a few trifles of airy persiflage they got + down to business. + </p> + <p> + “This,” said they, indicating the tiny flat, “is the most beautiful place + to camp in all the mountains.” + </p> + <p> + We doubted it. + </p> + <p> + “Here is excellent water.” + </p> + <p> + We agreed to that. + </p> + <p> + “And there is no more water for a journey.” + </p> + <p> + “You are liars,” we observed politely. + </p> + <p> + “And near is the village of our chief, who is a great warrior, and will + bring you many presents; the greatest man in these parts.” + </p> + <p> + “Now you're getting to it,” we observed in English; “you want trade.” Then + in Swahili, “We shall march two hours longer.” + </p> + <p> + After a few polite phrases they went away. We finished lunch, remounted, + and rode up the trail. At the edge of the canyon we came to a wide + clearing, at the farther side of which was evidently the village in + question. But the merry villagers, down to the last toro, were drawn up at + the edge of the track in a double line through which we rode. They were + very wealthy savages, and wore it all. Bright neck, arm, and leg + ornaments, yards and yards of cowry shells in strings, blue beads of all + sizes (blue beads were evidently “in”), odd scraps and shapes of + embroidered skins, clean shaves and a beautiful polish characterized this + holiday gathering. We made our royal progress between the serried ranks. + About eight or ten seconds after we had passed the last villager-just the + proper dramatic pause, you observe-the bushes parted and a splendid, + straight, springy young man came into view and stepped smilingly across + the space that separated us. And about eight or ten seconds after his + emergence-again just the right dramatic pause-the bushes parted again to + give entrance to four of the quaintest little dolls of wives. These + advanced all abreast, parted, and took up positions two either side the + smiling chief. This youth was evidently in the height of fashion, his hair + braided in a tight queue bound with skin, his ears dangling with + ornaments, heavy necklaces around his neck, and armlets etc., ad lib. His + robe was of fine monkey skin embroidered with rosettes of beads, and his + spear was very long, bright and keen. He was tall and finely built carried + himself with a free, lithe swing. As the quintette came to halt, the + villagers fell silent and our shauri began. + </p> + <p> + We drew up and dismounted. We all expectorated as gentlemen. + </p> + <p> + “These,” said he proudly, “are my beebees.” + </p> + <p> + We replied that they seemed like excellent beebees and politely inquired + the price of wives thereabout, and also the market for totos. He gave us + to understand that such superior wives as these brought three cows and + twenty sheep apiece, but that you could get a pretty good toto for half a + rupee. + </p> + <p> + “When we look upon our women,” he concluded grandly, “we find them good; + but when we look upon the white women they are as nothing!” He completely + obliterated the poor little beebees with a magnificent gesture. They + looked very humble and abashed. I was, however, a bit uncertain as to + whether this was intended as a genuine tribute to Billy, or was meant to + console us for having only one to his four. + </p> + <p> + Now observe the stagecraft of all this: entrance of diplomats, preliminary + conversation introducing the idea of the greatness of N'Zahgi (for that + was his name), chorus of villagers, and, as climax, dramatic entrance of + the hero and heroines. It was pretty well done. + </p> + <p> + Again we stopped about the middle of the afternoon in an opening on the + rounded top of a hill. While waiting for the safari to come up, Billy + wandered away fifty or sixty yards to sit under a big tree. She did not + stay long. Immediately she was settled, a dozen women and young girls + surrounded her. They were almost uproariously good-natured, but Billy was + probably the first white woman they had ever seen, and they intended to + make the most of her. Every item of her clothes and equipment they + examined minutely, handled and discussed. When she told them with great + dignity to go away, they laughed consumedly, fairly tumbling into each + other's arms with excess of joy. Billy tried to gather her effects for a + masterly retreat, but found the press of numbers too great. At last she + had to signal for help. One of us wandered over with a kiboko with which + lightly he flicked the legs of such damsels as he could reach. They + scattered like quail, laughing hilariously. Billy was escorted back to + safety. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after the Chief and his Prime Minister came in. He was a little + old gray-haired gentleman, as spry as a cricket, quite nervous, and very + chatty. We indicated our wants to him, and he retired after enunciating + many words. The safari came in, made camp. We had tea and a bath. The + darkness fell; and still no Chief, no milk, no firewood, no promises + fulfilled. There were plenty of natives around camp, but when we suggested + that they get out and rustle on our behalf, they merely laughed + good-naturedly. We seriously contemplated turning the whole lot out of + camp. + </p> + <p> + Finally we gave it up, and sat down to our dinner. It was now quite dark. + The askaris had built a little campfire out in front. + </p> + <p> + Then, far in the distance of the jungle's depths, we heard a faint + measured chanting as of many people coming nearer. From another direction + this was repeated. The two processions approached each other; their paths + converged; the double chanting became a chorus that grew moment by moment. + We heard beneath the wild weird minors the rhythmic stamping of feet, and + the tapping of sticks. The procession debouched from the jungle's edge + into the circle of the firelight. Our old chief led, accompanied by a + bodyguard in all the panoply of war: ostrich feather circlets enclosing + the head and face, shields of bright heraldry, long glittering spears. + These were followed by a dozen of the quaintest solemn dolls of beebees + dressed in all the white cowry shells, beads and brass the royal treasury + afforded, very earnest, very much on inspection, every little head + uplifted, singing away just as hard as ever they could. Each carried a + gourd of milk, a bunch of bananas, some sugarcane, yams or the like. + Straight to the fire marched the pageant. Then the warriors dividing right + and left, drew up facing each other in two lines, struck their spears + upright in the ground, and stood at attention. The quaint brown little + women lined up to close the end of this hollow square, of which our group + was, roughly speaking, the fourth side. Then all came to attention. The + song now rose to a wild and ecstatic minor chanting. The beebees, still + singing, one by one cast their burdens between the files and at our feet + in the middle of the hollow square. Then they continued their chant, + singing away at the tops of their little lungs, their eyes and teeth + showing, their pretty bodies held rigidly upright. The warriors, very + erect and military, stared straight ahead. + </p> + <p> + And the chief? Was he the centre of the show, the important leading man, + to the contemplation of whom all these glories led? Not at all! This + particular chief did not have the soul of a leading man, but rather the + soul of a stage manager. Quite forgetful of himself and his part in the + spectacle, his brow furrowed with anxiety, he was flittering from one to + another of the performers. He listened carefully to each singer in turn, + holding his hand behind his ear to catch the individual note, striking one + on the shoulder in admonition, nodding approval at another. He darted + unexpectedly across to scrutinize a warrior, in the chance of catching a + flicker of the eyelid even. Nary a flicker! They did their stage manager + credit, and stood like magnificent bronzes. He even ran across to peer + into our own faces to see how we liked it. + </p> + <p> + With a sudden crescendo the music stopped. Involuntarily we broke into + handclapping. The old boy looked a bit startled at this, but we explained + to him, and he seemed very pleased. We then accepted formally the heap of + presents, by touching them-and in turn passed over a blanket, a box of + matches, and two needles, together with beads for the beebees. Then F., on + an inspiration, produced his flashlight. This made a tremendous sensation. + The women tittered and giggled and blinked as its beams were thrown + directly into their eyes; the chief's sons grinned and guffawed; the chief + himself laughed like a pleased schoolboy, and seemed never to weary of the + sudden shutting on and off of the switch. But the trusty Spartan warriors, + standing still in their formation behind their planted spears, were not to + be shaken. They glared straight in front of them, even when we held the + light within a few inches of their eyes, and not a muscle quivered! + </p> + <p> + “It is wonderful! wonderful!” the old man repeated. “Many Government men + have come here, but none have had anything like that! The bwanas must be + very great sultans!” + </p> + <p> + After the departure of our friends, we went rather grandly to bed. We + always did after any one had called us sultans. + </p> + <p> + But our prize chief was an individual named M'booley.* Our camp here also + was on a fine cleared hilltop between two streams. After we had traded for + a while with very friendly and prosperous people M'booley came in. He was + young, tall, straight, with a beautiful smooth lithe form, and his face + was hawklike and cleverly intelligent. He carried himself with the + greatest dignity and simplicity, meeting us on an easy plane of + familiarity. I do not know how I can better describe his manner toward us + than to compare it to the manner the member of an exclusive golf club + would use to one who is a stranger, but evidently a guest. He took our + quality for granted; and supposed we must do the same by him, neither + acting as though he considered us “great white men,” nor yet standing + aloof and too respectful. And as the distinguishing feature of all, he was + absolutely without personal ornament. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Pronounce each o separately. +</pre> + <p> + Pause for a moment to consider what a real advance in esthetic taste that + one little fact stands for. All M'booley's attendants were the giddiest + and gaudiest savages we had yet seen, with more colobus fur, sleighbells, + polished metal, ostrich plumes, and red paint than would have fitted out + any two other royal courts of the jungle. The women too were wealthy and + opulent without limit. It takes considerable perception among our + civilized people to realize that severe simplicity amid ultra magnificence + makes the most effective distinguishing of an individual. If you do not + believe it, drop in at the next ball to which you are invited. M'booley + had fathomed this, and what was more he had the strength of mind to act on + it. Any savage loves finery for its own sake. His hair was cut short, and + shaved away at the edges to leave what looked like an ordinary + close-fitting skull cap. He wore one pair of plain armlets on his left + upper arm and small simple ear-rings. His robe was black. He had no trace + of either oil or paint, nor did he even carry a spear. + </p> + <p> + He greeted us with good-humoured ease, and inquired conversationally if we + wanted anything. We suggested wood and milk, whereupon still smiling, he + uttered a few casual words in his own language to no one in particular. + There was no earthly doubt that he was chief. Three of the most gorgeous + and haughty warriors ran out of camp. Shortly long files of women came in + bringing loads of firewood; and others carrying bananas, yams, sugarcane + and a sheep. Truly M'booley did things on a princely scale. We thanked + him. He accepted the thanks with a casual smile, waved his hand and went + on to talk of something else. In due order our M'ganga brought up one of + our best trade blankets, to which we added a half dozen boxes of matches + and a razor. + </p> + <p> + Now into camp filed a small procession: four women, four children, and two + young men. These advanced to where M'booley was standing smoking with + great satisfaction one of B's tailor-made cigarettes. M'booley advanced + ten feet to meet them, and brought them up to introduce them one by one in + the most formal fashion. These were of course his family, and we had to + confess that they “saw” N'Zahgi's outfit of ornaments and “raised” him + beyond the ceiling. We gave them each in turn the handshake of ceremony, + first with the palms as we do it, and then each grasping the other's + upright thumb. The “little chiefs” were proud, aristocratic little + fellows, holding themselves very straight and solemn. I think one would + have known them for royalty anywhere. + </p> + <p> + It was quite a social occasion. None of our guests was in the least ill at + ease; in fact, the young ladies were quite coy and flirtatious. We had a + great many jokes. Each of the little ladies received a handful of + prevailing beads. M'booley smiled benignly at these delightful + femininities. After a time he led us to the edge of the hill and showed us + his houses across the cation, perched on a flat about halfway up the wall. + They were of the usual grass-thatched construction, but rather larger and + neater than most. Examining them through the glasses we saw that a little + stream had been diverted to flow through the front yard. M'booley waved + his hand abroad and gave us to understand that he considered the outlook + worth looking at. It was; but an appreciation of that fact is foreign to + the average native. Next morning, when we rode by very early, we found the + little flat most attractively cleared and arranged. M'booley was out to + shake us by the hand in farewell, shivering in the cold of dawn. The + flirtatious and spoiled little beauties were not in evidence. + </p> + <p> + One day after two very deep canyons we emerged from the forest jungle into + an up and down country of high jungle bush-brush. From the top of a ridge + it looked a good deal like a northern cut-over pine country grown up very + heavily to blackberry vines; although, of course, when we came nearer, the + “blackberry vines” proved to be ten or twenty feet high. This was a + district of which Horne had warned us. The natives herein were reported + restless and semi-hostile; and in fact had never been friendly. They + probably needed the demonstration most native tribes seem to require + before they are content to settle down and be happy. At any rate safaris + were not permitted in their district; and we ourselves were allowed to go + through merely because we were a large party, did not intend to linger, + and had a good reputation with natives. + </p> + <p> + It is very curious how abruptly, in Central Africa, one passes from one + condition to another, from one tribe or race to the next. Sometimes, as in + the present case, it is the traversing of a deep cation; at others the + simple crossing of a tiny brook is enough. Moreover the line of + demarcation is clearly defined, as boundaries elsewhere are never defined + save in wartime. + </p> + <p> + Thus we smiled our good-bye to a friendly numerous people, descended a + hill, and ascended another into a deserted track. After a half mile we + came unexpectedly on to two men carrying each a load of reeds. These they + abandoned and fled up the hillside through the jungle, in spite of our + shouted assurances. A moment later they reappeared at some distance above + us, each with a spear he had snatched from somewhere; they were unarmed + when we first caught sight of them. Examined through the glasses they + proved to be sullen looking men, copper coloured, but broad across the + cheekbones, broad in the forehead, more decidedly of the negro type than + our late hosts. + </p> + <p> + Aside from these two men we travelled through an apparently deserted + jungle. I suspect, however, that we were probably well watched; for when + we stopped for noon we heard the gunbearers beyond the screen of leaves + talking to some one. On learning from our boys that these were some of the + shenzis, we told them to bring the savages in for a shauri; but in this + our men failed, nor could they themselves get nearer than fifty yards or + so to the wild people. So until evening our impression remained that of + two distant men, and the indistinct sound of voices behind a leafy screen. + </p> + <p> + We made camp comparatively early in a wide open space surrounded by low + forest. Almost immediately then the savages commenced to drift in, very + haughty and arrogant. They were fully armed. Besides the spear and + decorated shield, some of them carried the curious small grass spears. + These are used to stab upward from below, the wielder lying flat in the + grass. Some of these men were fantastically painted with a groundwork + ochre, on which had been drawn intricate wavy designs on the legs, like + stockings, and varied stripes across the face. One particularly ingenious + individual, stark naked, had outlined a roughly entire skeleton! He was a + gruesome object! They stalked here and there through the camp, looking at + our men and their activities with a lofty and silent contempt. + </p> + <p> + You may be sure we had our arrangements, though they did not appear on the + surface. The askaris, or native soldiers, were posted here and there with + their muskets; the gunbearers also kept our spare weapons by them. The + askaris could not hit a barn, but they could make a noise. The gunbearers + were fair shots. + </p> + <p> + Of course the chief and his prime minister came in. They were evil-looking + savages. To them we paid not the slightest attention, but went about our + usual business as though they did not exist. At the end of an hour they of + their own initiative greeted us. We did not hear them. Half an hour later + they disappeared, to return after an interval, followed by a string of + young men bearing firewood. Evidently our bearing had impressed them, as + we had intended. We then unbent far enough to recognize them, carried on a + formal conversation for a few moments, gave them adequate presents and + dismissed them. Then we ordered the askaris to clear camp and to keep it + clear. No women had appeared. Even the gifts of firewood had been carried + by men, a most unusual proceeding. + </p> + <p> + As soon as dark fell the drums began roaring in the forest all about our + clearing, and the chanting to rise. We instructed our men to shoot first + and inquire afterward, if a shenzi so much as showed himself in the + clearing. This was not as bad as it sounded; the shenzi stood in no + immediate danger. Then we turned in to a sleep rather light and broken by + uncertainty. I do not think we were in any immediate danger of a + considered attack, for these people were not openly hostile; but there was + always a chance that the savages might by their drum pounding and dancing + work themselves into a frenzy. Then we might have to do a little rapid + shooting. Not for one instant the whole night long did those misguided + savages cease their howling and dancing. At any rate we cost them a + night's sleep. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we took up our march through the deserted tracks once more. + Not a sign of human life did we encounter. About ten o'clock we climbed + down a tremendous gash of a box canyon with precipitous cliffs. From below + we looked back to see, perched high against the skyline, the motionless + figures of many savages watching us from the crags. So we had had company + after all, and we had not known it. This canyon proved to be the boundary + line. With the same abruptness we passed again into friendly country. + </p> + <p> + (d) OUT THE OTHER SIDE + </p> + <p> + We left the jungle finally when we turned on a long angle away from Kenia. + At first the open country of the foothills was closely cultivated with + fields of rape and maize. We saw some of the people breaking new soil by + means of long pointed sticks. The plowmen quite simply inserted the + pointed end in the ground and pried. It was very slow hard work. In other + fields the grain stood high and good. From among the stalks, as from a + miniature jungle, the little naked totos stared out, and the good-natured + women smiled at us. The magnificent peak of Kenia had now shaken itself + free of the forests. On its snow the sunrises and sunsets kindled their + fires. The flames of grass fires, too, could plainly be made out, + incredible distances away, and at daytime, through the reek, were + fascinating suggestions of distant rivers, plains, jungles, and hills. You + see, we were still practically on the wide slope of Kenia's base, though + the peak was many days away, and so could look out over wide country. + </p> + <p> + The last half day of this we wandered literally in a rape field. The + stalks were quite above our heads, and we could see but a few yards in any + direction. In addition the track had become a footpath not over two feet + wide. We could occasionally look back to catch glimpses of a pack or so + bobbing along on a porter's head. From our own path hundreds of other + paths branched; we were continually taking the wrong fork and moving back + to set the safari right before it could do likewise. This we did by + drawing a deep double line in the earth across the wrong trail. Then we + hustled on ahead to pioneer the way a little farther; our difficulties + were further complicated by the fact that we had sent our horses back to + Nairobi for fear of the tsetse fly, so we could not see out above the + corn. All we knew was that we ought to go down hill. + </p> + <p> + At the ends of some of our false trails we came upon fascinating little + settlements: groups of houses inside brush enclosures, with low wooden + gateways beneath which we had to stoop to enter. Within were groups of + beehive houses with small naked children and perhaps an old woman or old + man seated cross-legged under a sort of veranda. From them we obtained + new-and confusing-directions. + </p> + <p> + After three o'clock we came finally out on the edge of a cliff fifty or + sixty feet high, below which lay uncultivated bottom lands like a great + meadow and a little meandering stream. We descended the cliff, and camped + by the meandering stream. + </p> + <p> + By this time we were fairly tired from long walking in the heat, and so + were content to sit down under our tent-fly before our little table, and + let Mahomet bring us sparklets and lime juice. Before us was the flat of a + meadow below the cliffs and the cliffs themselves. Just below the rise lay + a single patch of standing rape not over two acres in extent, the only + sign of human life. It was as though this little bit had overflowed from + the countless millions on the plateau above. Beyond it arose a thin signal + of smoke. + </p> + <p> + We sipped our lime juice and rested. Soon our attention was attracted by + the peculiar actions of a big flock of very white birds. They rose + suddenly from one side of the tiny rape field, wheeled and swirled like + leaves in the wind, and dropped down suddenly on the other side the patch. + After a few moments they repeated the performance. The sun caught the + dazzling white of their plumage. At first we speculated on what they might + be, then on what they were doing, to behave in so peculiar a manner. The + lime juice and the armchair began to get in their recuperative work. + Somehow the distance across that flat did not seem quite as tremendous as + at first. Finally I picked up the shotgun and sauntered across to + investigate. The cause of action I soon determined. The owner of that rape + field turned out to be an emaciated, gray-haired but spry old savage. He + was armed with a spear; and at the moment his chief business in life + seemed to be chasing a large flock of white birds off his grain. Since he + had no assistance, and since the birds held his spear in justifiable + contempt as a fowling piece, he was getting much exercise and few results. + The birds gave way before his direct charge, flopped over to the other + side, and continued their meal. They had already occasioned considerable + damage; the rape heads were bent and destroyed for a space of perhaps ten + feet from the outer edge of the field. As this grain probably constituted + the old man's food supply for a season, I did not wonder at the vehemence + with which he shook his spear at his enemies, nor the apparent flavour of + his language, though I did marvel at his physical endurance. As for the + birds, they had become cynical and impudent; they barely fluttered out of + the way. + </p> + <p> + I halted the old gentleman and hastened to explain that I was neither a + pirate, a robber, nor an oppressor of the poor. This as counter-check to + his tendency to flee, leaving me in sole charge. He understood a little + Swahili, and talked a few words of something he intended for that + language. By means of our mutual accomplishment in that tongue, and + through a more efficient sign language, I got him to understand the plan + of campaign. It was very simple. I squatted down inside the rape, while he + went around the other side to scare them up. + </p> + <p> + The white birds uttered their peculiarly derisive cackle at the old man + and flapped over to my side. Then they were certainly an astonished lot of + birds. I gave them both barrels and dropped a pair; got two more shots as + they swung over me and dropped another pair, and brought down a straggling + single as a grand finale. The flock, with shrill, derogatory remarks, flew + in an airline straight away. They never deviated, as far as I could follow + them with the eye. Even after they had apparently disappeared, I could + catch an occasional flash of white in the sun. + </p> + <p> + Now the old gentleman came whooping around with long, undignified bounds + to fall on his face and seize my foot in an excess of gratitude. He rose + and capered about, he rushed out and gathered in the slain one by one and + laid them in a pile at my feet. Then he danced a jig-step around them and + reviled them, and fell on his face once more, repeating the word “Bwana! + bwana! bwana!” over and over-“Master! master! master!” We returned to camp + together, the old gentleman carrying the birds, and capering about like a + small boy, pouring forth a flood of his sort of Swahili, of which I could + understand only a word here and there. Memba Sasa, very dignified and + scornful of such performances, met us halfway and took my gun. He seemed + to be able to understand the old fellow's brand of Swahili, and said it + over again in a brand I could understand. From it I gathered that I was + called a marvellously great sultan, a protector of the poor, and other + Arabian Nights titles. + </p> + <p> + The birds proved to be white egrets. Now at home I am strongly against the + killing of these creatures, and have so expressed myself on many + occasions. But, looking from the beautiful white plumage of these + villainous mauraders, to the wrinkled countenance of the grateful weary + old savage, I could not fan a spark of regret. And from the straight line + of their retreating flight I like to think that the rest of the flock + never came back, but took their toll from the wider fields of the plateau + above. + </p> + <p> + Next day we reentered the game-haunted wilderness, nor did we see any more + native villages until many weeks later we came into the country of the + Wakamba. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0019" id="link2H_4_0019"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XIX. THE TANA RIVER + </h2> + <p> + Our first sight of the Tana River was from the top of a bluff. It flowed + below us a hundred feet, bending at a sharp elbow against the cliff on + which we stood. Out of the jungle it crept sluggishly and into the jungle + it crept again, brown, slow, viscid, suggestive of the fevers and the + lurking beasts by which, indeed, it was haunted. From our elevation we + could follow its course by the jungle that grew along its banks. At first + this was intermittent, leaving thin or even open spaces at intervals, but + lower down it extended away unbroken and very tall. The trees were many of + them beginning to come into flower. + </p> + <p> + Either side of the jungle were rolling hills. Those to the left made up to + the tremendous slopes of Kenia. Those to the right ended finally in a low + broken range many miles away called the Ithanga Hills. The country gave + one the impression of being clothed with small trees; although here and + there this growth gave space to wide grassy plains. Later we discovered + that the forest was more apparent than real. The small trees, even where + continuous, were sparse enough to permit free walking in all directions, + and open enough to allow clear sight for a hundred yards or so. + Furthermore, the shallow wide valleys between the hills were almost + invariably treeless and grown to very high thick grass. + </p> + <p> + Thus the course of the Tana possessed advantages to such as we. By + following in general the course of the stream we were always certain of + wood and water. The river itself was full of fish-not to speak of hundreds + of crocodiles and hippopotamuses. The thick river jungle gave cover to + such animals as the bushbuck, leopard, the beautiful colobus, some of the + tiny antelope, waterbuck, buffalo and rhinoceros. Among the thorn and + acacia trees of the hillsides one was certain of impalla, eland, + diks-diks, and giraffes. In the grass bottoms were lions, rhinoceroses, a + half dozen varieties of buck, and thousands and thousands of game birds + such as guinea fowl and grouse. On the plains fed zebra, hartebeeste, + wart-hog, ostriches, and several species of the smaller antelope. As a + sportsman's paradise this region would be hard to beat. + </p> + <p> + We were now afoot. The dreaded tsetse fly abounded here, and we had sent + our horses in via Fort Hall. F. had accompanied them, and hoped to rejoin + us in a few days or weeks with tougher and less valuable mules. Pending + his return we moved on leisurely, camping long at one spot, marching short + days, searching the country far and near for the special trophies of which + we stood in need. + </p> + <p> + It was great fun. Generally we hunted each in his own direction and + according to his own ideas. The jungle along the river, while not the most + prolific in trophies, was by all odds the most interesting. It was very + dense, very hot, and very shady. Often a thorn thicket would fling itself + from the hills right across to the water's edge, absolutely and hopelessly + impenetrable save by way of the rhinoceros tracks. Along these then we + would slip, bent double, very quietly and gingerly, keeping a sharp + lookout for the rightful owners of the trail. Again we would wander among + lofty trees through the tops of which the sun flickered on festooned + serpent-like vines. Every once in a while we managed a glimpse of the + sullen oily river through the dense leaf screen on its banks. The water + looked thick as syrup, of a deadly menacing green. Sometimes we saw a + loathsome crocodile lying with his nose just out of water, or heard the + snorting blow of a hippopotamus coming up for air. Then the thicket forced + us inland again. We stepped very slowly, very alertly, our ears cocked for + the faintest sound, our eyes roving. Generally, of course, the creatures + of the jungle saw us first. We became aware of them by a crash or a + rustling or a scamper. Then we stood stock listening with all our ears for + some sound distinguishing to the species. Thus I came to recognize the + queer barking note of the bushbuck, for example, and to realize how + profane and vulgar that and the beautiful creature, the impalla, can be + when he forgets himself. As for the rhinoceros, he does not care how much + noise he makes, nor how badly he scares you. + </p> + <p> + Personally, I liked very well to circle out in the more open country until + about three o'clock, then to enter the river jungle and work my way slowly + back toward camp. At that time of day the shadows were lengthening, the + birds and animals were beginning to stir about. In the cooling nether + world of shadow we slipped silently from thicket to thicket, from tree to + tree; and the jungle people fled from us, or withdrew, or gazed curiously, + or cursed us as their dispositions varied. + </p> + <p> + While thus returning one evening I saw my first colobus. He was swinging + rapidly from one tree to another, his long black and white fur shining + against the sun. I wanted him very much, and promptly let drive at him + with the 405 Winchester. I always carried this heavier weapon in the dense + jungle. Of course I missed him, but the roar of the shot so surprised him + that he came to a stand. Memba Sasa passed me the Springfield, and I + managed to get him in the head. At the shot another flashed into view, + high up in the top of a tree. Again I aimed and fired. The beast let go + and fell like a plummet. “Good shot,” said I to myself. Fifty feet down + the colobus seized a limb and went skipping away through the branches as + lively as ever. In a moment he stopped to look back, and by good luck I landed + him through the body. When we retrieved him we found that the first shot + had not hit him at all! + </p> + <p> + At the time I thought he must have been frightened into falling; but many + subsequent experiences showed me that this sheer let-go-all-holds drop is + characteristic of the colobus and his mode of progression. He rarely, as + far as my observation goes, leaps out and across as do the ordinary + monkeys, but prefers to progress by a series of slanting ascents followed + by breath-taking straight drops to lower levels. When closely pressed from + beneath, he will go as high as he can, and will then conceal himself in + the thick leaves. + </p> + <p> + B. and I procured our desired number of colobus by taking advantage of + this habit-as soon as we had learned it. Shooting the beasts with our + rifles we soon found to be not only very difficult, but also destructive + of the skins. On the other hand, a man could not, save by sheer good + fortune, rely on stalking near enough to use a shotgun. Therefore we + evolved a method productive of the maximum noise, row, barked shins, thorn + wounds, tumbles, bruises-and colobus! It was very simple. We took about + twenty boys into the jungle with us, and as soon as we caught sight of a + colobus we chased him madly. That was all there was to it. + </p> + <p> + And yet this method, simple apparently to the point of imbecility, had + considerable logic back of it after all; for after a time somebody managed + to get underneath that colobus when he was at the top of a tree. Then the + beast would hide. + </p> + <p> + Consider then a tumbling riotous mob careering through the jungle as fast + as the jungle would let it, slipping, stumbling, falling flat, getting + tangled hopelessly, disentangling with profane remarks, falling behind and + catching up again, everybody yelling and shrieking. Ahead of us we caught + glimpses of the sleek bounding black and white creature, running up the + long slanting limbs, and dropping like a plummet into the lower branches + of the next tree. We white men never could keep up with the best of our + men at this sort of work, although in the open country I could hold them + well enough. We could see them dashing through the thick cover at a great + rate of speed far ahead of us. After an interval came a great shout in + chorus. By this we knew that the quarry had been definitely brought to a + stand. Arriving at the spot we craned our heads backward, and proceeded to + get a crick in the neck trying to make out invisible colobus in the very + tops of the trees above us. For gaudily marked beasts the colobus were + extraordinarily difficult to see. This was in no sense owing to any + far-fetched application of protective colouration; but to the remarkable + skill the animals possessed in concealing themselves behind apparently the + scantiest and most inadequate cover. Fortunately for us our boys' ability + to see them was equally remarkable. Indeed, the most difficult part of + their task was to point the game out to us. We squinted, and changed + position, and tried hard to follow directions eagerly proffered by a dozen + of the men. Finally one of us would, by the aid of six power-glasses, make + out, or guess at a small tuft of white or black hair showing beyond the + concealment of a bunch of leaves. We would unlimber the shotgun and send a + charge of BB into that bunch. Then down would plump the game, to the huge + and vociferous delight of all the boys. Or, as occasionally happened, the + shot was followed merely by a shower of leaves and a chorus of + expostulations indicating that we had mistaken the place, and had fired + into empty air. + </p> + <p> + In this manner we gathered the twelve we required between us. At noon we + sat under the bank, with the tangled roots of trees above us, and the + smooth oily river slipping by. You may be sure we always selected a spot + protected by very shoal water, for the crocodiles were numerous. I always + shot these loathsome creatures whenever I got a chance, whenever the sound + of a shot would not alarm more valuable game. Generally they were to be + seen in midstream, just the tip of their snouts above water, and + extraordinarily like anything but crocodiles. Often it took several close + scrutinies through the glass to determine the brutes. This required rather + nice shooting. More rarely we managed to see them on the banks, or only + half submerged. In this position, too, they were all but undistinguishable + as living creatures. I think this is perhaps because of their complete + immobility. The creatures of the woods, standing quite still, are + difficult enough to see; but I have a notion that the eye, unknown to + itself, catches the sum total of little flexings of the muscles, movements + of the skin, winkings, even the play of wind and light in the hair of the + coat, all of which, while impossible of analysis, together relieve the + appearance of dead inertia. The vitality of a creature like the crocodile, + however, seems to have withdrawn into the inner recesses of its being. It + lies like a log of wood, and for a log of wood it is mistaken. + </p> + <p> + Nevertheless the crocodile has stored in it somewhere a fearful vitality. + The swiftness of its movements when seizing prey is most astonishing; a + swirl of water, the sweep of a powerful tail, and the unfortunate victim + has disappeared. For this reason it is especially dangerous to approach + the actual edge of any of the great rivers, unless the water is so shallow + that the crocodile could not possibly approach under cover, as is its + cheerful habit. We had considerable difficulty in impressing this + elementary truth on our hill-bred totos until one day, hearing wild + shrieks from the direction of the river, I rushed down to find the lot + huddled together in the very middle of a sand spit that-reached well out + into the stream. Inquiry developed that while paddling in the shallows + they had been surprised by the sudden appearance of an ugly snout and well + drenched by the sweep of an eager tail. The stroke fortunately missed. We + stilled the tumult, sat down quietly to wait, and at the end of ten + minutes had the satisfaction of abating that croc. + </p> + <p> + Generally we killed the brutes where we found them and allowed them to + drift away with the current. Occasionally however we wanted a piece of + hide, and then tried to retrieve them. One such occasion showed very + vividly the tenacity of life and the primitive nervous systems of these + great saurians. + </p> + <p> + I discovered the beast, head out of water, in a reasonable sized pool + below which were shallow rapids. My Springfield bullet hit him fair, + whereupon he stood square on his head and waved his tail in the air, + rolled over three or four times, thrashed the water, and disappeared. + After waiting a while we moved on downstream. Returning four hours later I + sneaked up quietly. There the crocodile lay sunning himself on the sand + bank. I supposed he must be dead; but when I accidentally broke a twig, he + immediately commenced to slide off into the water. Thereupon I stopped him + with a bullet in the spine. The first shot had smashed a hole in his head, + just behind the eye, about the size of an ordinary coffee cup. In spite of + this wound, which would have been instantly fatal to any warm-blooded + animal, the creature was so little affected that it actually reacted to a + slight noise made at some distance from where it lay. Of course the wound + would probably have been fatal in the long run. + </p> + <p> + The best spot to shoot at, indeed, is not the head but the spine + immediately back of the head. + </p> + <p> + These brutes are exceedingly powerful. They are capable of taking down + horses and cattle, with no particular effort. This I know from my own + observation. Mr. Fleischman, however, was privileged to see the wonderful + sight of the capture and destruction of a full-grown rhinoceros by a + crocodile. The photographs he took of this most extraordinary affair leave + no room for doubt. Crossing a stream was always a matter of concern to us. + The boys beat the surface of the water vigorously with their safari + sticks. On occasion we have even let loose a few heavy bullets to stir up + the pool before venturing in. + </p> + <p> + A steep climb through thorn and brush would always extricate us from the + river jungle when we became tired of it. Then we found ourselves in a + continuous but scattered growth of small trees. Between the trunks of + these we could see for a hundred yards or so before their numbers closed + in the view. Here was the favourite haunt of numerous beautiful impalla. + We caught glimpses of them, flashing through the trees; or occasionally + standing, gazing in our direction, their slender necks stretched high, + their ears pointed for us. These curious ones were generally the does. The + bucks were either more cautious or less inquisitive. A herd or so of eland + also liked this covered country; and there were always a few waterbuck and + rhinoceroses about. Often too we here encountered stragglers from the open + plains-zebra or hartebeeste, very alert and suspicious in unaccustomed + surroundings. + </p> + <p> + A great deal of the plains country had been burned over; and a + considerable area was still afire. The low bright flames licked their way + slowly through the grass in a narrow irregular band extending sometimes + for miles. Behind it was blackened soil, and above it rolled dense clouds + of smoke. Always accompanied it thousands of birds wheeling and dashing + frantically in and out of the murk, often fairly at the flames themselves. + The published writings of a certain worthy and sentimental person waste + much sympathy over these poor birds dashing frenziedly about above their + destroyed nests. As a matter of fact they are taking greedy advantage of a + most excellent opportunity to get insects cheap. Thousands of the common + red-billed European storks patrolled the grass just in front of the + advancing flames, or wheeled barely above the fire. Grasshoppers were + their main object, although apparently they never objected to any small + mammals or reptiles that came their way. Far overhead wheeled a few + thousand more assorted soarers who either had no appetite or had satisfied + it. + </p> + <p> + The utter indifference of the animals to the advance of a big + conflagration always impressed me. One naturally pictures the beasts as + fleeing wildly, nostrils distended, before the devouring element. On the + contrary I have seen kongoni grazing quite peacefully with flames on three + sides of them. The fire seems to travel rather slowly in the tough grass; + although at times and for a short distance it will leap to a wild and + roaring life. Beasts will then lope rapidly away to right or left, but + without excitement. + </p> + <p> + On these open plains we were more or less pestered with ticks of various + sizes. These clung to the grass blades; but with no invincible preference + for that habitat; trousers did them just as well. Then they ascended + looking for openings. They ranged in size from little red ones as small as + the period of a printed page to big patterned fellows the size of a pea. + The little ones were much the most abundant. At times I have had the front + of my breeches so covered with them that their numbers actually imparted a + reddish tinge to the surface of the cloth. This sounds like exaggeration, + but it is a measured statement. The process of de-ticking (new and + valuable word) can then be done only by scraping with the back of a + hunting knife. + </p> + <p> + Some people, of tender skin, are driven nearly frantic by these pests. + Others, of whom I am thankful to say I am one, get off comparatively easy. + In a particularly bad tick country, one generally appoints one of the + youngsters as “tick toto.” It is then his job in life to de-tick any + person or domestic animal requiring his services. His is a busy existence. + But though at first the nuisance is excessive, one becomes accustomed to + it in a remarkably short space of time. The adaptability of the human + being is nowhere better exemplified. After a time one gets so that at + night he can remove a marauding tick and cast it forth into the darkness + without even waking up. Fortunately ticks are local in distribution. Often + one may travel weeks or months without this infliction. + </p> + <p> + I was always interested and impressed to observe how indifferent the wild + animals seem to be to these insects. Zebra, rhinoceros and giraffe seem to + be especially good hosts. The loathsome creatures fasten themselves in + clusters wherever they can grip their fangs. Thus in a tick country a + zebra's ears, the lids and corners of his eyes, his nostrils and lips, the + soft skin between his legs and body, and between his hind legs, and under + his tail are always crusted with ticks as thick as they can cling. One + would think the drain on vitality would be enormous, but the animals are + always plump and in condition. The same state of affairs obtains with the + other two beasts named. The hartebeeste also carries ticks but not nearly + in the same abundance; while such creatures as the waterbuck, impalla, + gazelles and the smaller bucks seem either to be absolutely free from the + pests, or to have a very few. Whether this is because such animals take + the trouble to rid themselves, or because they are more immune from attack + it would be difficult to say. I have found ticks clinging to the hair of + lions, but never fastened to the flesh. It is probable that they had been + brushed off from the grass in passing. Perhaps ticks do not like lions, + waterbuck, Tommies, et al., or perhaps only big coarse-grained common + brutes like zebra and rhinos will stand them at all. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0020" id="link2H_4_0020"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XX. DIVERS ADVENTURES ALONG THE TANA + </h2> + <p> + Late one afternoon I shot a wart-hog in the tall grass. The beast was an + unusually fine specimen, so I instructed Fundi and the porters to take the + head, and myself started for camp with Memba Sasa. I had gone not over a + hundred yards when I was recalled by wild and agonized appeals of “Bwana! + bwana!” The long-legged Fundi was repeatedly leaping straight up in the + air to an astonishing height above the long grass, curling his legs up + under him at each jump, and yelling like a steam-engine. Returning + promptly, I found that the wart-hog had come to life at the first prick of + the knife. He was engaged in charging back and forth in an earnest effort + to tusk Fundi, and the latter was jumping high in an equally earnest + effort to keep out of the way. Fortunately he proved agile enough to do so + until I planted another bullet in the aggressor. + </p> + <p> + These wart-hogs are most comical brutes from whatever angle one views + them. They have a patriarchal, self-satisfied, suburban manner of complete + importance. The old gentleman bosses his harem outrageously, and each and + every member of the tribe walks about with short steps and a stuffy + parvenu small-town self-sufficiency. One is quite certain that it is only + by accident that they have long tusks and live in Africa, instead of + rubber-plants and self-made business and a pug-dog within commuters' + distance of New York. But at the slightest alarm this swollen and puffy + importance breaks down completely. Away they scurry, their tails held + stiffly and straightly perpendicular, their short legs scrabbling the + small stones in a frantic effort to go faster than nature had intended + them to go. Nor do they cease their flight at a reasonable distance, but + keep on going over hill and dale, until they fairly vanish in the blue. I + used to like starting them off this way, just for the sake of contrast, + and also for the sake of the delicious but impossible vision of seeing + their human prototypes do likewise. + </p> + <p> + When a wart-hog is at home, he lives down a hole. Of course it has to be a + particularly large hole. He turns around and backs down it. No more + peculiar sight can be imagined than the sardonically toothsome countenance + of a wart-hog fading slowly in the dimness of a deep burrow, a good deal + like Alice's Cheshire Cat. Firing a revolver, preferably with smoky black + powder, just in front of the hole annoys the wart-hog exceedingly. Out he + comes full tilt, bent on damaging some one, and it takes quick shooting to + prevent his doing so. + </p> + <p> + Once, many hundreds of miles south of the Tana, and many months later, we + were riding quite peaceably through the country, when we were startled by + the sound of a deep and continuous roaring in a small brush patch to our + left. We advanced cautiously to a prospective lion, only to discover that + the roaring proceeded from the depths of a wart-hog burrow. The + reverberation of our footsteps on the hollow ground had alarmed him. He + was a very nervous wart-hog. + </p> + <p> + On another occasion, when returning to camp from a solitary walk, I saw + two wart-hogs before they saw me. I made no attempt to conceal myself, but + stood absolutely motionless. They fed slowly nearer and nearer until at + last they were not over twenty yards away. When finally they made me out, + their indignation and amazement and utter incredulity were very funny. In + fact, they did not believe in me at all for some few snorty moments. + Finally they departed, their absurd tails stiff upright. + </p> + <p> + One afternoon F. and I, hunting along one of the wide grass bottom lands, + caught sight of a herd of an especially fine impalla. The animals were + feeding about fifty yards the other side of a small solitary bush, and the + bush grew on the sloping bank of the slight depression that represented + the dry stream bottom. We could duck down into the depression, sneak along + it, come up back of the little bush, and shoot from very close range. + Leaving the gunbearers, we proceeded to do this. + </p> + <p> + So quietly did we move that when we rose up back of the little bush a + lioness lying under it with her cub was as surprised as we were! + </p> + <p> + Indeed, I do not think she knew what we were, for instead of attacking, + she leaped out the other side the bush, uttering a startled snarl. At once + she whirled to come at us, but the brief respite had allowed us to recover + our own scattered wits. As she turned I caught her broadside through the + heart. Although this shot knocked her down, F. immediately followed it + with another for safety's sake. We found that actually we had just missed + stepping on her tail! + </p> + <p> + The cub we caught a glimpse of. He was about the size of a setter dog. We + tried hard to find him, but failed. The lioness was an unusually large + one, probably about as big as the female ever grows, measuring nine feet + six inches in length, and three feet eight inches tail at the shoulder. + </p> + <p> + Billy had her funny times housekeeping. The kitchen department never quite + ceased marvelling at her. Whenever she went to the cook-camp to deliver + her orders she was surrounded by an attentive and respectful audience. One + day, after holding forth for some time in Swahili, she found that she had + been standing hobnailed on one of the boy's feet. + </p> + <p> + “Why, Mahomet!” she cried. “That must hurt you! Why didn't you tell me?” + </p> + <p> + “Memsahib,” he smiled politely, “I think perhaps you move some time!” + </p> + <p> + On another occasion she was trying to tell the cook, through Mahomet as + interpreter, that she wanted a tough old buffalo steak pounded, + boarding-house style. This evidently puzzled all hands. They turned to in + an earnest discussion of what it was all about, anyway. Billy understood + Swahili well enough at that time to gather that they could not understand + the Memsahib's wanting the meat “kibokoed”—FLOGGED. Was it a religious + rite, or a piece of revenge? They gave it up. + </p> + <p> + “All right,” said Mahomet patiently at last. “He say he do it. WHICH ONE + IS IT?” + </p> + <p> + Part of our supplies comprised tins of dehydrated fruit. One evening Billy + decided to have a grand celebration, so she passed out a tin marked + “rhubarb” and some cornstarch, together with suitable instructions for a + fruit pudding. In a little while the cook returned. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + “Nataka m'tund-I want fruit,” said he. +</pre> + <p> + Billy pointed out, severely, that he already had fruit. He went away + shaking his head. Evening and the pudding came. It looked good, and we + congratulated Billy on her culinary enterprise. Being hungry, we took big + mouthfuls. There followed splutterings and investigations. The rhubarb can + proved to be an old one containing heavy gun grease! + </p> + <p> + When finally we parted with our faithful cook we bought him a really + wonderful many bladed knife as a present. On seeing it he slumped to the + ground-six feet of lofty dignity-and began to weep violently, rocking back + and forth in an excess of grief. + </p> + <p> + “Why, what is it?” we inquired, alarmed. + </p> + <p> + “Oh, Memsahib!” he wailed, the tears coursing down his cheeks, “I wanted a + watch!” + </p> + <p> + One morning about nine o'clock we were riding along at the edge of a + grass-grown savannah, with a low hill to our right and another about four + hundred yards ahead. Suddenly two rhinoceroses came to their feet some + fifty yards to our left out in the high grass, and stood looking + uncertainly in our direction. + </p> + <p> + “Look out! Rhinos!” I warned instantly. + </p> + <p> + “Why-why!” gasped Billy in an astonished tone of voice, “they have manes!” + </p> + <p> + In some concern for her sanity I glanced in her direction. She was + staring, not to her left, but straight ahead. I followed the direction of + her gaze, to see three lions moving across the face of the hill. + </p> + <p> + Instantly we dropped off our horses. We wanted a shot at those lions very + much indeed, but were hampered in our efforts by the two rhinoceroses, now + stamping, snorting, and moving slowly in our direction. The language we + muttered was racy, but we dropped to a kneeling position and opened fire + on the disappearing lions. It was most distinctly a case of divided + attention, one eye on those menacing rhinos, and one trying to attend to + the always delicate operation of aligning sights and signalling from a + rather distracted brain just when to pull the trigger. Our faithful + gunbearers crouched by us, the heavy guns ready. + </p> + <p> + One rhino seemed either peaceable or stupid. He showed no inclination + either to attack or to depart, but was willing to back whatever play his + friend might decide on. The friend charged toward us until we began to + think he meant battle, stopped, thought a moment, and then, followed by + his companion, trotted slowly across our bows about eighty yards away, + while we continued our long range practice at the lions over their backs. + </p> + <p> + In this we were not winning many cigars. F. had a 280-calibre rifle + shooting the Ross cartridge through the much advertised grooveless oval + bore. It was little accurate beyond a hundred yards. Memba Sasa had thrust + the 405 into my hand, knowing it for the “lion gun,” and kept just out of + reach with the long-range Springfield. I had no time to argue the matter + with him. The 405 has a trajectory like a rainbow at that distance, and I + was guessing at it, and not making very good guesses either. B. had his + Springfield and made closer practice, finally hitting a leg of one of the + beasts. We saw him lift his paw and shake it, but he did not move lamely + afterward, so the damage was probably confined to a simple scrape. It was + a good shot anyway. Then they disappeared over the top of the hill. + </p> + <p> + We walked forward, regretting rhinos. Thirty yards ahead of me came a + thunderous and roaring growl, and a magnificent old lion reared his head + from a low bush. He evidently intended mischief, for I could see his tail + switching. However, B. had killed only one lion and I wanted very much to + give him the shot. Therefore, I held the front sight on the middle of his + chest, and uttered a fervent wish to myself that B. would hurry up. In + about ten seconds the muzzle of his rifle poked over my shoulder, so I + resigned the job. + </p> + <p> + At B.'s shot the lion fell over, but was immediately up and trying to get + at us. Then we saw that his hind quarters were paralyzed. He was a most + magnificent sight as he reared his fine old head, roaring at us full + mouthed so that the very air trembled. Billy had a good look at a lion in + action. B. took up a commanding position on an ant hill to one side with + his rifle levelled. F. and I advanced slowly side by side. At twelve feet + from the wounded beast stopped, F. unlimbered the kodak, while I held the + bead of the 405 between the lion's eyes, ready to press trigger at the + first forward movement, however slight. Thus we took several exposures in + the two cameras. Unfortunately one of the cameras fell in the river the + next day. The other contained but one exposure. While not so spectacular + as some of those spoiled, it shows very well the erect mane, the wicked + narrowing of the eyes, the flattening of the ears of an angry lion. You + must imagine, furthermore, the deep rumbling diapason of his growling. + </p> + <p> + We backed away, and B. put in the finishing shot. The first bullet, we + then found, had penetrated the kidneys, thus inflicting a temporary + paralysis. + </p> + <p> + When we came to skin him we found an old-fashioned lead bullet between the + bones of his right forepaw. The entrance wound had so entirely healed over + that hardly the trace of a scar remained. From what I know of the + character of these beasts, I have no doubt that this ancient injury + furnished the reason for his staying to attack us instead of departing + with the other three lions over the hill. + </p> + <p> + Following the course of the river, we one afternoon came around a bend on + a huge herd of mixed game that had been down to water. The river, a quite + impassable barrier lay to our right, and an equally impassable precipitous + ravine barred their flight ahead. They were forced to cross our front, + quite close, within the hundred yards. We stopped to watch them go, a + seemingly endless file of them, some very much frightened, bounding + spasmodically as though stung; others more philosophical, loping easily + and unconcernedly; still others to a few-even stopping for a moment to get + a good view of us. The very young creatures, as always, bounced along + absolutely stiff-legged, exactly like wooden animals suspended by an + elastic, touching the ground and rebounding high, without a bend of the + knee nor an apparent effort of the muscles. Young animals seem to have to + learn how to bend their legs for the most efficient travel. The same is + true of human babies as well. In this herd were, we estimated, some four + or five hundred beasts. + </p> + <p> + While hunting near the foothills I came across the body of a large eagle + suspended by one leg from the crotch of a limb. The bird's talon had + missed its grip, probably on alighting, the tarsus had slipped through the + crotch beyond the joint, the eagle had fallen forward, and had never been + able to flop itself back to an upright position! + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0022" id="link2H_4_0022"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXI. THE RHINOCEROS + </h2> + <p> + The rhinoceros is, with the giraffe, the hippopotamus, the gerenuk, and + the camel, one of Africa's unbelievable animals. Nobody has bettered + Kipling's description of him in the Just-so Stories: “A horn on his nose, + piggy eyes, and few manners.” He lives a self-centred life, wrapped up in + the porcine contentment that broods within nor looks abroad over the land. + When anything external to himself and his food and drink penetrates to his + intelligence he makes a flurried fool of himself, rushing madly and + frantically here and there in a hysterical effort either to destroy or get + away from the cause of disturbance. He is the incarnation of a living and + perpetual Grouch. + </p> + <p> + Generally he lives by himself, sometimes with his spouse, more rarely + still with a third that is probably a grown-up son or daughter. I + personally have never seen more than three in company. Some observers have + reported larger bands, or rather collections, but, lacking other evidence, + I should be inclined to suspect that some circumstances of food or water + rather than a sense of gregariousness had attracted a number of + individuals to one locality. + </p> + <p> + The rhinoceros has three objects in life: to fill his stomach with food + and water, to stand absolutely motionless under a bush, and to imitate ant + hills when he lies down in the tall grass. When disturbed at any of these + occupations he snorts. The snort sounds exactly as though the safety valve + of a locomotive had suddenly opened and as suddenly shut again after two + seconds of escaping steam. Then he puts his head down and rushes madly in + some direction, generally upwind. As he weighs about two tons, and can, in + spite of his appearance, get over the ground nearly as fast as an ordinary + horse, he is a truly imposing sight, especially since the innocent + bystander generally happens to be upwind, and hence in the general path of + progress. This is because the rhino's scent is his keenest sense, and + through it he becomes aware, in the majority of times, of man's presence. + His sight is very poor indeed; he cannot see clearly even a moving object + much beyond fifty yards. He can, however, hear pretty well. + </p> + <p> + The novice, then, is subjected to what he calls a “vicious charge” on the + part of the rhinoceros, merely because his scent was borne to the beast + from upwind, and the rhino naturally runs away upwind. He opens fire, and + has another thrilling adventure to relate. As a matter of fact, if he had + approached from the other side, and then aroused the animal with a clod of + earth, the beast would probably have “charged” away in identically the + same direction. I am convinced from a fairly varied experience that this + is the basis for most of the thrilling experiences with rhinoceroses. + </p> + <p> + But whatever the beast's first mental attitude, the danger is quite real. + In the beginning he rushes, upwind in instinctive reaction against the + strange scent. If he catches sight of the man at all, it must be after he + has approached to pretty close range, for only at close range are the + rhino's eyes effective. Then he is quite likely to finish what was at + first a blind dash by a genuine charge. Whether this is from malice or + from the panicky feeling that he is now too close to attempt to get away, + I never was able determine. It is probably in the majority of cases the + latter. This seems indicated by the fact that the rhino, if avoided in his + first rush, will generally charge right through and keep on going. + Occasionally, however, he will whirl and come back to the attack. There + can then be no doubt that he actually intends mischief. + </p> + <p> + Nor must it be forgotten that with these animals, AS WITH ALL OTHERS, not + enough account is taken of individual variation. They, as well as man, and + as well as other animals, have their cowards, their fighters, their + slothful and their enterprising. And, too, there seem to be truculent and + peaceful districts. North of Mt. Kenia, between that peak and the Northern + Guaso Nyero River, we saw many rhinos, none of which showed the slightest + disposition to turn ugly. In fact, they were so peaceful that they + scrabbled off as fast as they could go every time they either scented, + heard, or SAW us; and in their flight they held their noses up, not down. + In the wide angle between the Tana and Thika rivers, and comprising the + Yatta Plains, and in the thickets of the Tsavo, the rhinoceroses generally + ran nose down in a position of attack and were much inclined to let their + angry passions master them at the sight of man. Thus we never had our + safari scattered by rhinoceroses in the former district, while in the + latter the boys were up trees six times in the course of one morning! Carl + Akeley, with a moving picture machine, could not tease a charge out of a + rhino in a dozen tries, while Dugmore, in a different part of the country, + was so chivied about that he finally left the district to avoid killing + any more of the brutes in self-defence! + </p> + <p> + The fact of the matter is that the rhinoceros is neither animated by the + implacable man-destroying passion ascribed to him by the amateur hunter, + nor is he so purposeless and haphazard in his rushes as some would have us + believe. On being disturbed his instinct is to get away. He generally + tries to get away in the direction of the disturbance, or upwind, as the + case may be. If he catches sight of the cause of disturbance he is apt to + try to trample and gore it, whatever it is. As his sight is short, he will + sometimes so inflict punishment on unoffending bushes. In doing this he is + probably not animated by a consuming destructive blind rage, but by a + naturally pugnacious desire to eliminate sources of annoyance. Missing a + definite object, he thunders right through and disappears without trying + again to discover what has aroused him. + </p> + <p> + This first rush is not a charge in the sense that it is an attack on a + definite object. It may not, and probably will not, amount to a charge at + all, for the beast will blunder through without ever defining more clearly + the object of his blind dash. That dash is likely, however, at any moment, + to turn into a definite charge should the rhinoceros happen to catch sight + of his disturber. Whether the impelling motive would then be a mistaken + notion that on the part of the beast he was so close he had to fight, or + just plain malice, would not matter. At such times the intended victim is + not interested in the rhino's mental processes. + </p> + <p> + Owing to his size, his powerful armament, and his incredible quickness the + rhinoceros is a dangerous animal at all times, to be treated with respect + and due caution. This is proved by the number of white men, out of a + sparse population, that are annually tossed and killed by the brutes, and + by the promptness with which the natives take to trees-thorn trees at + that!-when the cry of faru! is raised. As he comes rushing in your + direction, head down and long weapon pointed, tail rigidly erect, ears up, + the earth trembling with his tread and the air with his snorts, you + suddenly feel very small and ineffective. + </p> + <p> + If you keep cool, however, it is probable that the encounter will result + only in a lot of mental perturbation for the rhino and a bit of excitement + for yourself. If there is any cover you should duck down behind it and + move rapidly but quietly to one side or another of the line of advance. If + there is no cover, you should crouch low and hold still. The chances are + he will pass to one side or the other of you, and go snorting away into + the distance. Keep your eye on him very closely. If he swerves definitely + in your direction, AND DROPS HIS HEAD A LITTLE LOWER, it would be just as + well to open fire. Provided the beast was still far enough away to give me + “sea-room,” I used to put a small bullet in the flesh of the outer part of + the shoulder. The wound thus inflicted was not at all serious, but the + shock of the bullet usually turned the beast. This was generally in the + direction of the wounded shoulder, which would indicate that the brute + turned toward the apparent source of the attack, probably for the purpose + of getting even. At any rate, the shot turned the rush to one side, and + the rhinoceros, as usual, went right on through. If, however, he seemed to + mean business, or was too close for comfort, the point to aim for was the + neck just above the lowered horn. + </p> + <p> + In my own experience I came to establish a “dead line” about twenty yards + from myself. That seemed to be as near as I cared to let the brutes come. + Up to that point I let them alone on the chance that they might swerve or + change their minds, as they often did. But inside of twenty yards, whether + the rhinoceros meant to charge me, or was merely running blindly by, did + not particularly matter. Even in the latter case he might happen to catch + sight of me and change his mind. Thus, looking over my notebook records, I + find that I was “charged” forty odd times-that is to say, the rhinoceros + rushed in my general direction. Of this lot I can be sure of but three, + and possibly four, that certainly meant mischief. Six more came so + directly at us, and continued so to come, that in spite of ourselves we + were compelled to kill them. The rest were successfully dodged. + </p> + <p> + As I have heard old hunters of many times my experience, affirm that only + in a few instances have they themselves been charged indubitably and with + malice aforethought, it might be well to detail my reasons for believing + myself definitely and not blindly attacked. + </p> + <p> + The first instance was that when B. killed his second trophy rhinoceros. + The beast's companion refused to leave the dead body for a long time, but + finally withdrew. On our approaching, however, and after we had been some + moments occupied with the trophy, it returned and charged viciously. It + was finally killed at fifteen yards. + </p> + <p> + The second instance was of a rhinoceros that got up from the grass sixty + yards away, and came headlong in my direction. At the moment I was + standing on the edge of a narrow eroded ravine, ten feet deep, with + perpendicular sides. The rhinoceros came on bravely to the edge of this + ravine-and stopped. Then he gave an exhibition of unmitigated bad temper + most amusing to contemplate-from my safe position. He snorted, and + stamped, and pawed the earth, and tramped up and down at a great rate. I + sat on the opposite bank and laughed at him. This did not please him a + bit, but after many short rushes to the edge of the ravine, he gave it up + and departed slowly, his tail very erect and rigid. From the persistency + with which he tried to get at me, I cannot but think he intended something + of the sort from the first. + </p> + <p> + The third instance was much more aggravating. In company with Memba Sasa + and Fundi I left camp early one morning to get a waterbuck. Four or five + hundred yards out, however, we came on fresh buffalo signs, not an hour + old. To one who knew anything of buffaloes' habits this seemed like an + excellent chance, for at this time of the morning they should be feeding + not far away preparatory to seeking cover for the day. Therefore we + immediately took up the trail. + </p> + <p> + It led us over hills, through valleys, high grass, burned country, brush, + thin scrub, and small woodland alternately. Unfortunately we had happened + on these buffalo just as they were about changing district, and they were + therefore travelling steadily. At times the trail was easy to follow and + at other times we had to cast about very diligently to find traces of the + direction even such huge animals had taken. It was interesting work, + however, and we drew on steadily, keeping a sharp lookout ahead in case + the buffalo had come to a halt in some shady thicket out of the sun. As + the latter ascended the heavens and the scorching heat increased, our + confidence in nearing our quarry ascended likewise, for we knew that + buffaloes do not like great heat. Nevertheless this band continued + straight on its way. I think now they must have got scent of our camp, and + had therefore decided to move to one of the alternate and widely separated + feeding grounds every herd keeps in its habitat. Only at noon, and after + six hours of steady trailing, covering perhaps a dozen miles, did we catch + them up. + </p> + <p> + From the start we had been bothered with rhinoceroses. Five times did we + encounter them, standing almost squarely on the line of the spoor we were + following. Then we had to make a wide quiet circle to leeward in order to + avoid disturbing them, and were forced to a very minute search in order to + pick up the buffalo tracks again on the other side. This was at once an + anxiety and a delay, and we did not love those rhino. + </p> + <p> + Finally, at the very edge of the Yatta Plains we overtook the herd, + resting for noon in a scattered thicket. Leaving Fundi, I, with Memba + Sasa, stalked down to them. We crawled and crept by inches flat to the + ground, which was so hot that it fairly burned the hand. The sun beat down + on us fiercely, and the air was close and heavy even among the scanty + grass tufts in which we were trying to get cover. It was very hard work + indeed, but after a half hour of it we gained a thin bush not over thirty + yards from a half dozen dark and indeterminate bodies dozing in the very + centre of a brush patch. Cautiously I wiped the sweat from my eyes and + raised my glasses. It was slow work and patient work, picking out and + examining each individual beast from the mass. Finally the job was done. I + let fall my glasses. + </p> + <p> + “Monumookee y'otey-all cows,” I whispered to Memba Sasa. + </p> + <p> + We backed out of there inch by inch, with intention of circling a short + distance to the leeward, and then trying the herd again lower down. But + some awkward slight movement, probably on my part, caught the eye of one + of those blessed cows. She threw up her head; instantly the whole thicket + seemed alive with beasts. We could hear them crashing and stamping, + breaking the brush, rushing headlong and stopping again; we could even + catch momentary glimpses of dark bodies. After a few minutes we saw the + mass of the herd emerge from the thicket five hundred yards away and flow + up over the hill. There were probably a hundred and fifty of them, and, + looking through my glasses, I saw among them two fine old bulls. They were + of course not much alarmed, as only the one cow knew what it was all about + anyway, and I suspected they would stop at the next thicket. + </p> + <p> + We had only one small canteen of water with us, but we divided that. It + probably did us good, but the quantity was not sufficient to touch our + thirst. For the remainder of the day we suffered rather severely, as the + sun was fierce. + </p> + <p> + After a short interval we followed on after the buffaloes. Within a half + mile beyond the crest of the hill over which they had disappeared was + another thicket. At the very edge of the thicket, asleep under an outlying + bush, stood one of the big bulls! + </p> + <p> + Luck seemed with us at last. The wind was right, and between us and the + bull lay only four hundred yards of knee-high grass. All we had to do was + to get down on our hands and knees, and, without further precautions, + crawl up within range and pot him. That meant only a bit of hard, hot + work. + </p> + <p> + When we were about halfway a rhinoceros suddenly arose from the grass + between us and the buffalo, and about one hundred yards away. + </p> + <p> + What had aroused him, at that distance and upwind, I do not know. It + hardly seemed possible that he could have heard us, for we were moving + very quietly, and, as I say, we were downwind. However, there he was on + his feet, sniffing now this way, now that, in search for what had alarmed + him. We sank out of sight and lay low, fully expecting that the brute + would make off. + </p> + <p> + For just twenty-five minutes by the watch that rhinoceros looked and + looked deliberately in all directions while we lay hidden waiting for him + to get over it. Sometimes he would start off quite confidently for fifty + or sixty yards, so that we thought at last we were rid of him, but always + he returned to the exact spot where we had first seen him, there to stamp, + and blow. The buffalo paid no attention to these manifestations. I suppose + everybody in jungleland is accustomed to rhinoceros bad temper over + nothing. Twice he came in our direction, but both times gave it up after + advancing twenty-five yards or so. We lay flat on our faces, the vertical + sun slowly roasting us, and cursed that rhino. + </p> + <p> + Now the significance of this incident is twofold: first, the fact that, + instead of rushing off at the first intimation of our presence, as would + the average rhino, he went methodically to work to find us; second, that + he displayed such remarkable perseverance as to keep at it nearly a half + hour. This was a spirit quite at variance with that finding its expression + in the blind rush or in the sudden passionate attack. From that point of + view it seems to me that the interest and significance of the incident can + hardly be overstated. + </p> + <p> + Four or five times we thought ourselves freed of the nuisance, but always, + just as we were about to move on, back he came, as eager as ever to nose + us out. Finally he gave it up, and, at a slow trot, started to go away + from there. And out of the three hundred and sixty degrees of the circle + where he might have gone he selected just our direction. Note that this + was downwind for him, and that rhinoceroses usually escape upwind. + </p> + <p> + We laid very low, hoping that, as before, he would change his mind as to + direction. But now he was no longer looking, but travelling. Nearer and + nearer he came. We could see plainly his little eyes, and hear the regular + swish, swish, swish of his thick legs brushing through the grass. The + regularity of his trot never varied, but to me lying there directly in his + path, he seemed to be coming on altogether too fast for comfort. From our + low level he looked as big as a barn. Memba Sasa touched me lightly on the + leg. I hated to shoot, but finally when he loomed fairly over us I saw it + must be now or never. If I allowed him to come closer, he must indubitably + catch the first movement of my gun and so charge right on us before I + would have time to deliver even an ineffective shot. Therefore, most + reluctantly, I placed the ivory bead of the great Holland gun just to the + point of his shoulder and pulled the trigger. So close was he that as he + toppled forward I instinctively, though unnecessarily of course, shrank + back as though he might fall on me. Fortunately I had picked my spot + properly, and no second shot was necessary. He fell just twenty-seven + feet-nine yards—from where we lay! + </p> + <p> + The buffalo vanished into the blue. We were left with a dead rhino, which + we did not want, twelve miles from camp, and no water. It was a hard hike + back, but we made it finally, though nearly perished from thirst. + </p> + <p> + This beast, be it noted, did not charge us at all, but I consider him as + one of the three undoubtedly animated by hostile intentions. Of the others + I can, at this moment, remember five that might or might not have been + actually and maliciously charging when they were killed or dodged. I am no + mind reader for rhinoceros. Also I am willing to believe in their entirely + altruistic intentions. Only, if they want to get the practical results of + their said altruistic intentions they must really refrain from coming + straight at me nearer than twenty yards. It has been stated that if one + stands perfectly still until the rhinoceros is just six feet away, and + then jumps sideways, the beast will pass him. I never happened to meet + anybody who had acted on this theory. I suppose that such exist: though I + doubt if any persistent exponent of the art is likely to exist long. + Personally I like my own method, and stoutly maintain that within twenty + yards it is up to the rhinoceros to begin to do the dodging. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0023" id="link2H_4_0023"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXII. THE RHINOCEROS-(continued) + </h2> + <p> + At first the traveller is pleased and curious over rhinoceros. After he + has seen and encountered eight or ten, he begins to look upon them as an + unmitigated nuisance. By the time he has done a week in thick + rhino-infested scrub he gets fairly to hating them. + </p> + <p> + They are bad enough in the open plains, where they can be seen and + avoided, but in the tall grass or the scrub they are a continuous anxiety. + No cover seems small enough to reveal them. Often they will stand or lie + absolutely immobile until you are within a very short distance, and then + will outrageously break out. They are, in spite of their clumsy build, as + quick and active as polo ponies, and are the only beasts I know of capable + of leaping into full speed ahead from a recumbent position. In thorn scrub + they are the worst, for there, no matter how alert the traveller may hold + himself, he is likely to come around a bush smack on one. And a dozen + times a day the throat-stopping, abrupt crash and smash to right or left + brings him up all standing, his heart racing, the blood pounding through + his veins. It is jumpy work, and is very hard on the temper. In the + natural reaction from being startled into fits one snaps back to + profanity. The cumulative effects of the epithets hurled after a departing + and inconsiderately hasty rhinoceros may have done something toward + ruining the temper of the species. It does not matter whether or not the + individual beast proves dangerous; he is inevitably most startling. I have + come in at night with my eyes fairly aching from spying for rhinos during + a day's journey through high grass. + </p> + <p> + And, as a friend remarked, rhinos are such a mussy death. One poor chap, + killed while we were away on our first trip, could not be moved from the + spot where he had been trampled. A few shovelfuls of earth over the + remains was all the rhinoceros had left possible. + </p> + <p> + Fortunately, in the thick stuff especially, it is often possible to avoid + the chance rhinoceros through the warning given by the rhinoceros birds. + These are birds about the size of a robin that accompany the beast + everywhere. They sit in a row along his back occupying themselves with + ticks and a good place to roost. Always they are peaceful and quiet until + a human being approaches. Then they flutter a few feet into the air + uttering a peculiar rapid chattering. Writers with more sentiment than + sense of proportion assure us that this warns the rhinoceros of + approaching danger! On the contrary, I always looked at it the other way. + The rhinoceros birds thereby warned ME of danger, and I was duly thankful. + </p> + <p> + The safari boys stand quite justly in a holy awe of the rhino. The safari + is strung out over a mile or two of country, as a usual thing, and a + downwind rhino is sure to pierce some part of the line in his rush. Then + down go the loads with a smash, and up the nearest trees swarm the boys. + Usually their refuges are thorn trees, armed, even on the main trunk, with + long sharp spikes. There is no difficulty in going up, but the gingerly + coming down, after all the excitement has died, is a matter of + deliberation and of voices uplifted in woe. Cuninghame tells of an + inadequate slender and springy, but solitary, sapling into which swarmed + half his safari on the advent of a rambunctious rhino. The tree swayed and + bent and cracked alarmingly, threatening to dump the whole lot on the + ground. At each crack the boys yelled. This attracted the rhinoceros, + which immediately charged the tree full tilt. He hit square, the tree + shivered and creaked, the boys wound their arms and legs around the + slender support and howled frantically. Again and again rhinoceros drew + back to repeat his butting of that tree. By the time Cuninghame reached + the spot, the tree, with its despairing burden of black birds, was + clinging to the soil by its last remaining roots. + </p> + <p> + In the Nairobi Club I met a gentleman with one arm gone at the shoulder. + He told his story in a slightly bored and drawling voice, picking his + words very carefully, and evidently most occupied with neither + understating nor overstating the case. It seems he had been out, and had + killed some sort of a buck. While his men were occupied with this, he + strolled on alone to see what he could find. He found a rhinoceros, that + charged viciously, and into which he emptied his gun. + </p> + <p> + “When I came to,” he said, “it was just coming on dusk, and the lions were + beginning to grunt. My arm was completely crushed, and I was badly bruised + and knocked about. As near as I could remember I was fully ten miles from + camp. A circle of carrion birds stood all about me not more than ten feet + away, and a great many others were flapping over me and fighting in the + air. These last were so close that I could feel the wind from their wings. + It was rawther gruesome.” He paused and thought a a moment, as though + weighing his words. “In fact,” he added with an air of final conviction, + “it was QUITE gruesome!” + </p> + <p> + The most calm and imperturbable rhinoceros I ever saw was one that made us + a call on the Thika River. It was just noon, and our boys were making camp + after a morning's march. The usual racket was on, and the usual varied + movement of rather confused industry. Suddenly silence fell. We came out + of the tent to see the safari gazing spellbound in one direction. There + was a rhinoceros wandering peaceably over the little knoll back of camp, + and headed exactly in our direction. While we watched, he strolled through + the edge of camp, descended the steep bank to the river's edge, drank, + climbed the bank, strolled through camp again and departed over the hill. + To us he paid not the slightest attention. It seems impossible to believe + that he neither scented nor saw any evidences of human life in all that + populated flat, especially when one considers how often these beasts will + SEEM to become aware of man's presence by telepathy.* Perhaps he was the + one exception to the whole race, and was a good-natured rhino. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Opposing theories are those of “instinct,” and of slight + causes, such a grasshoppers leaping before the hunter's + feet, not noticed by the man approaching. +</pre> + <p> + The babies are astonishing and amusing creatures, with blunt noses on + which the horns are just beginning to form, and with even fewer manners + than their parents. The mere fact of an 800-pound baby does not cease to + be curious. They are truculent little creatures, and sometimes rather hard + to avoid when they get on the warpath. Generally, as far as my observation + goes, the mother gives birth to but one at a time. There may be occasional + twin births, but I happen never to have met so interesting a family. + </p> + <p> + Rhinoceroses are still very numerous-too numerous. I have seen as many as + fourteen in two hours, and probably could have found as many more if I had + been searching for them. There is no doubt, however, that this species + must be the first to disappear of the larger African animals. His great + size combined with his 'orrid 'abits mark him for early destruction. No + such dangerous lunatic can be allowed at large in a settled country, nor + in a country where men are travelling constantly. The species will + probably be preserved in appropriate restricted areas. It would be a great + pity to have so perfect an example of the Prehistoric Pinhead wiped out + completely. Elsewhere he will diminish, and finally disappear. + </p> + <p> + For one thing, and for one thing only, is the traveller indebted to the + rhinoceros. The beast is lazy, large, and has an excellent eye for easy + ways through. For this reason, as regards the question of good roads, he + combines the excellent qualities of Public Sentiment, the Steam Roller, + and the Expert Engineer. Through thorn thickets impenetrable to anything + less armoured than a Dreadnaught like himself he clears excellent paths. + Down and out of eroded ravines with perpendicular sides he makes excellent + wide trails, tramped hard, on easy grades, often with zigzags to ease the + slant. In some of the high country where the torrential rains wash + hundreds of such gullies across the line of march it is hardly an + exaggeration to say that travel would be practically impossible without + the rhino trails wherewith to cross. Sometimes the perpendicular banks + will extend for miles without offering any natural break down to the + stream-bed. Since this is so I respectfully submit to Government the + following proposal: + </p> + <p> + (a) That a limited number of these beasts shall be licensed as Trail + Rhinos; and that all the rest shall be killed from the settled and + regularly travelled districts. + </p> + <p> + (b) That these Trail Rhinos shall be suitably hobbled by short steel + chains. + </p> + <p> + (c) That each Trail Rhino shall carry painted conspicuously on his side + his serial number. + </p> + <p> + (d) That as a further precaution for public safety each Trail Rhino shall + carry firmly attached to his tail a suitable red warning flag. Thus the + well-known habit of the rhinoceros of elevating his tail rigidly when + about to charge, or when in the act of charging, will fly the flag as a + warning to travellers. + </p> + <p> + (e) That an official shall be appointed to be known as the Inspector of + Rhinos whose duty it shall be to examine the hobbles, numbers and flags of + all Trail Rhinos, and to keep the same in due working order and repair. + </p> + <p> + And I do submit to all and sundry that the above resolutions have as much + sense to them as have most of the petitions submitted to Government by + settlers in a new country. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0024" id="link2H_4_0024"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXIII. THE HIPPO POOL + </h2> + <p> + For a number of days we camped in a grove just above a dense jungle and + not fifty paces from the bank of a deep and wide river. We could at + various points push through light low undergrowth, or stoop beneath clear + limbs, or emerge on tiny open banks and promontories to look out over the + width of the stream. The river here was some three or four hundred feet + wide. It cascaded down through various large boulders and sluiceways to + fall bubbling and boiling into deep water; it then flowed still and + sluggish for nearly a half mile and finally divided into channels around a + number of wooded islands of different sizes. In the long still stretch + dwelt about sixty hippopotamuses of all sizes. + </p> + <p> + During our stay these hippos led a life of alarmed and angry care. When we + first arrived they were distributed picturesquely on banks or sandbars, or + were lying in midstream. At once they disappeared under water. By the end + of four or five minutes they began to come to the surface. Each beast took + one disgusted look, snorted, and sank again. So hasty was his action that + he did not even take time to get a full breath; consequently up he had to + come in not more than two minutes, this time. The third submersion lasted + less than a minute; and at the end of half hour of yelling we had the + hippos alternating between the bottom of the river and the surface of the + water about as fast as they could make a round trip, blowing like + porpoises. It was a comical sight. And as some of the boys were always out + watching the show, those hippos had no respite during the daylight hours. + From a short distance inland the explosive blowing as they came to the + surface sounded like the irregular exhaust of a steam-engine. + </p> + <p> + We camped at this spot four days; and never, in that length of time, + during the daytime, did those hippopotamuses take any recreation and rest. + To be sure after a little they calmed down sufficiently to remain on the + surface for a half minute or so, instead of gasping a mouthful of air and + plunging below at once; but below was where they considered they belonged + most of the time. We got to recognize certain individuals. They would + stare at us fixedly for a while; and then would glump down out of sight + like submarines. + </p> + <p> + When I saw them thus floating with only the very top of the head and snout + out of water, I for the first time appreciated why the Greeks had named + them hippopotamuses-the river horses. With the heavy jowl hidden; and the + prominent nostrils, the long reverse-curved nose, the wide eyes, and the + little pointed ears alone visible, they resembled more than a little that + sort of conventionalized and noble charger seen on the frieze of the + Parthenon, or in the prancy paintings of the Renaissance. + </p> + <p> + There were hippopotamuses of all sizes and of all colours. The little + ones, not bigger than a grand piano, were of flesh pink. Those half-grown + were mottled with pink and black in blotches. The adults were almost + invariably all dark, though a few of them retained still a small pink spot + or so-a sort of persistence in mature years of the eternal boy-, I + suppose. All were very sleek and shiny with the wet; and they had a + fashion of suddenly and violently wiggling one or the other or both of + their little ears in ridiculous contrast to the fixed stare of their bung + eyes. Generally they had nothing to say as to the situation, though + occasionally some exasperated old codger would utter a grumbling bellow. + </p> + <p> + The ground vegetation for a good quarter mile from the river bank was + entirely destroyed, and the earth beaten and packed hard by these animals. + Landing trails had been made leading out from the water by easy and + regular grades. These trails were about two feet wide and worn a foot or + so deep. They differed from the rhino trails, from which they could be + easily distinguished, in that they showed distinctly two parallel tracks + separated from each other by a slight ridge. In other words, the hippo + waddles. These trails we found as far as four and five miles inland. They + were used, of course, only at night; and led invariably to lush and heavy + feed. While we were encamped there, the country on our side the river was + not used by our particular herd of hippos. One night, however, we were + awakened by a tremendous rending crash of breaking bushes, followed by an + instant's silence and then the outbreak of a babel of voices. Then we + heard a prolonged sw-i-sh-sh-sh, exactly like the launching of a big boat. + A hippo had blundered out the wrong side the river, and fairly into our + camp. + </p> + <p> + In rivers such as the Tana these great beasts are most extraordinarily + abundant. Directly in front of our camp, for example, were three separate + herds which contained respectively about sixty, forty, and twenty-five + head. Within two miles below camp were three other big pools each with its + population; while a walk of a mile above showed about as many more. This + sort of thing obtained for practically the whole length of the + river-hundreds of miles. Furthermore, every little tributary stream, no + matter how small, provided it can muster a pool or so deep enough to + submerge so large an animal, has its faithful band. I have known of a + hippo quite happily occupying a ditch pool ten feet wide and fifteen feet + long. There was literally not room enough for the beast to turn around; he + had to go in at one end and out at the other! Each lake, too, is alive + with them; and both lakes and rivers are many. + </p> + <p> + Nobody disturbs hippos, save for trophies and an occasional supply of meat + for the men or of cooking fat for the kitchen. Therefore they wax fat and + sassy, and will long continue to flourish in the land. + </p> + <p> + It takes time to kill a hippo, provided one is wanted. The mark is small, + and generally it is impossible to tell whether or not the bullet has + reached the brain. Harmed or whole the beast sinks anyway. Some hours + later the distention of the stomach will float the body. Therefore the + only decent way to do is to take the shot, and then wait a half day to see + whether or not you have missed. There are always plenty of volunteers in + camp to watch the pool, for the boys are extravagantly fond of hippo meat. + Then it is necessary to manoeuvre a rope on the carcass, often a matter of + great difficulty, for the other hippos bellow and snort and try to live up + to the circus posters of the Blood-sweating Behemoth of Holy Writ, and the + crocodiles like dark meat very much. Usually one offers especial reward to + volunteers, and shoots into the water to frighten the beasts. The + volunteer dashes rapidly across the shallows, makes a swift plunge, and + clambers out on the floating body as onto a raft. + </p> + <p> + Then he makes fast the rope, and everybody tails on and tows the whole + outfit ashore. On one occasion the volunteer produced a fish line and + actually caught a small fish from the floating carcass! This sounds like a + good one; but I saw it with my own two eyes. + </p> + <p> + It was at the hippo pool camp that we first became acquainted with Funny + Face. + </p> + <p> + Funny Face was the smallest, furriest little monkey you ever saw. I never + cared for monkeys before; but this one was altogether engaging. He had + thick soft fur almost like that on a Persian cat, and a tiny human black + face, and hands that emerged from a ruff; and he was about as big as + old-fashioned dolls used to be before they began to try to imitate real + babies with them. That is to say, he was that big when we said farewell to + him. When we first knew him, had he stood in a half pint measure he could + just have seen over the rim. We caught him in a little thorn ravine all by + himself, a fact that perhaps indicates that his mother had been killed, or + perhaps that he, like a good little Funny Face, was merely staying where + he was told while she was away. At any rate he fought savagely, according + to his small powers. We took him ignominiously by the scruff of the neck, + haled him to camp, and dumped him down on Billy. Billy constructed him a + beautiful belt by sacrificing part of a kodak strap (mine), and tied him + to a chop box filled with dry grass. Thenceforth this became Funny Face's + castle, at home and on the march. + </p> + <p> + Within a few hours his confidence in life was restored. He accepted small + articles of food from our hands, eyeing us intently, retired and examined + them. As they all proved desirable, he rapidly came to the conclusion that + these new large strange monkeys, while not so beautiful and agile as his + own people, were nevertheless a good sort after all. Therefore he took us + into his confidence. By next day he was quite tame, would submit to being + picked up without struggling, and had ceased trying to take an end off our + various fingers. In fact when the finger was presented, he would seize it + in both small black hands; convey it to his mouth; give it several mild + and gentle love-chews; and then, clasping it with all four hands, would + draw himself up like a little athlete and seat himself upright on the + outspread palm. Thence he would survey the world, wrinkling up his tiny + brow. + </p> + <p> + This chastened and scholarly attitude of mind lasted for four or five + days. Then Funny Face concluded that he understood all about it, had + settled satisfactorily to himself all the problems of the world and his + relations to it, and had arrived at a good working basis for life. + Therefore these questions ceased to occupy him. He dismissed them from his + mind completely, and gave himself over to light-hearted frivolity. + </p> + <p> + His disposition was flighty but full of elusive charm. You deprecated his + lack of serious purpose in life, disapproved heartily of his + irresponsibility, but you fell to his engaging qualities. He was a typical + example of the lovable good-for-naught. Nothing retained his attention for + two consecutive minutes. If he seized a nut and started for his chop box + with it, the chances were he would drop it and forget all about it in the + interest excited by a crawling ant or the colour of a flower. His elfish + face was always alight with the play of emotions and of flashing changing + interests. He was greatly given to starting off on very important errands, + which he forgot before he arrived. + </p> + <p> + In this he contrasted strangely with his friend Darwin. Darwin was another + monkey of the same species, caught about a week later. Darwin's face was + sober and pondering, and his methods direct and effective. No side + excursions into the brilliant though evanescent fields of fancy diverted + him from his ends. These were, generally, to get the most and best food + and the warmest corner for sleep. When he had acquired a nut, a kernel of + corn, or a piece of fruit, he sat him down and examined it thoroughly and + conscientiously and then, conscientiously and thoroughly, he devoured it. + No extraneous interest could distract his attention; not for a moment. + That he had sounded the seriousness of life is proved by the fact that he + had observed and understood the flighty character of Funny Face. When + Funny Face acquired a titbit, Darwin took up a hump-backed position near + at hand, his bright little eyes fixed on his friend's activities. Funny + Face would nibble relishingly at his prune for a moment or so; then an + altogether astonishing butterfly would flitter by just overhead. Funny + Face, lost in ecstasy would gaze skyward after the departing marvel. This + was Darwin's opportunity. In two hops he was at Funny Face's side. With + great deliberation, but most businesslike directness, Darwin disengaged + Funny Face's unresisting fingers from the prune, seized it, and retired. + Funny Face never knew it; his soul was far away after the blazoned wonder, + and when it returned, it was not to prunes at all. They were forgotten, + and his wandering eye focussed back to a bright button in the grass. Thus + by strict attention to business did Darwin prosper. + </p> + <p> + Darwin's attitude was always serious, and his expression grave. When he + condescended to romp with Funny Face one could see that it was not for the + mere joy of sport, but for the purposes of relaxation. If offered a gift + he always examined it seriously before finally accepting it, turning it + over and over in his hands, and considering it with wrinkled brow. If you + offered anything to Funny Face, no matter what, he dashed up, seized it on + the fly, departed at speed uttering grateful low chatterings; probably + dropped and forgot it in the excitement of something new before he had + even looked to see what it was. + </p> + <p> + “These people,” said Darwin to himself, “on the whole, and as an average, + seem to give me appropriate and pleasing gifts. To be sure, it is always + well to see that they don't try to bunco me with olive stones or such + worthless trash, but still I believe they are worth cultivating and + standing in with.” + </p> + <p> + “It strikes me,” observed Funny Face to himself, “that my adorable + Memsahib and my beloved bwana have been very kind to me to-day, though I + don't remember precisely how. But I certainly do love them!” + </p> + <p> + We cut good sized holes on each of the four sides of their chop box to + afford them ventilation on the march. The box was always carried on one of + the safari boy's heads: and Funny Face and Darwin gazed forth with great + interest. It was very amusing to see the big negro striding jauntily along + under his light burden; the large brown winking eyes glued to two of the + apertures. When we arrived in camp and threw the box cover open, they + hopped forth, shook themselves, examined their immediate surroundings and + proceeded to take a little exercise. When anything alarmed them, such as + the shadow of a passing hawk, they skittered madly up the nearest thing in + sight-tent pole, tree, or human form— and scolded indignantly or + chittered in a low tone according to the degree of their terror. When + Funny Face was very young, indeed, the grass near camp caught fire. After + the excitement was over we found him completely buried in the straw of his + box, crouched, and whimpering like a child. As he could hardly, at his + tender age, have had any previous experience with fire, this instinctive + fear was to me very interesting. + </p> + <p> + The monkeys had only one genuine enemy. That was an innocent plush lion + named Little Simba. It had been given us in joke before we left + California, we had tucked it into an odd corner of our trunk, had + discovered it there, carried it on safari out of sheer idleness, and lo! + it had become an important member of the expedition. Every morning Mahomet + or Yusuf packed it-or rather him-carefully away in the tin box. Promptly + at the end of the day's march Little Simba was haled forth and set in a + place of honour in the centre of the table, and reigned there-or sometimes + in a little grass jungle constructed by his faithful servitors-until the + march was again resumed. His job in life was to look after our hunting + luck. When he failed to get us what we wanted, he was punished; when he + procured us what we desired he was rewarded by having his tail sewed on + afresh, or by being presented with new black thread whiskers, or even a + tiny blanket of Mericani against the cold. This last was an especial + favour for finally getting us the greater kudu. Naturally as we did all + this in the spirit of an idle joke our rewards and punishments were rather + desultory. To our surprise, however, we soon found that our boys took + Little Simba quite seriously. He was a fetish, a little god, a power of + good or bad luck. We did not appreciate this point until one evening, + after a rather disappointing day, Mahomet came to us bearing Little Simba + in his hand. + </p> + <p> + “Bwana,” said he respectfully, “is it enough that I shut Simba in the tin + box, or do you wish to flog him?” + </p> + <p> + On one very disgraceful occasion, when everything went wrong, we plucked + Little Simba from his high throne and with him made a beautiful drop-kick + out into the tall grass. There, in a loud tone of voice, we sternly bade + him lie until the morrow. The camp was bung-eyed. It is not given to every + people to treat its gods in such fashion: indeed, in very deed, great is + the white man! To be fair, having published Little Simba's disgrace, we + should publish also Little Simba's triumph: to tell how, at the end of a + certain very lucky three months' safari he was perched atop a pole and + carried into town triumphantly at the head of a howling, singing + procession of a hundred men. He returned to America, and now, having + retired from active professional life, is leading an honoured old age + among the trophies he helped to procure. + </p> + <p> + Funny Face first met Little Simba when on an early investigating tour. + With considerable difficulty he had shinnied up the table leg, and had + hoisted himself over the awkwardly projecting table edge. When almost + within reach of the fascinating affairs displayed atop, he looked straight + up into the face of Little Simba! Funny Face shrieked aloud, let go all + holds and fell off flat on his back. Recovering immediately, he climbed + just as high as he could, and proceeded, during the next hour, to relieve + his feelings by the most insulting chatterings and grimaces. He never + recovered from this initial experience. All that was necessary to evoke + all sorts of monkey talk was to produce Little Simba. Against his benign + plush front then broke a storm of remonstrance. He became the object of + slow advances and sudden scurrying, shrieking retreats, that lasted just + as long as he stayed there, and never got any farther than a certain quite + conservative point. Little Simba did not mind. He was too busy being a + god. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0025" id="link2H_4_0025"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXIV. BUFFALO + </h2> + <p> + The Cape Buffalo is one of the four dangerous kinds of African big game; + of which the other three are the lion, the rhinoceros, and the elephant. + These latter are familiar to us in zoological gardens, although the + African and larger form of the rhinoceros and elephant are seldom or never + seen in captivity. But buffaloes are as yet unrepresented in our living + collections. They are huge beasts, tremendous from any point of view, + whether considered in height, in mass, or in power. At the shoulder they + stand from just under five feet to just under six feet in height; they are + short legged, heavy bodied bull necked, thick in every dimension. In + colour they are black as to hair, and slate gray as to skin; so that the + individual impression depends on the thickness of the coat. They wear + their horns parted in the middle, sweeping smoothly away in the curves of + two great bosses either side the head. A good trophy will measure in + spread from forty inches to four feet. Four men will be required to carry + in the head alone. As buffaloes when disturbed or suspicious have a habit + of thrusting their noses up and forward, that position will cling to one's + memory as the most typical of the species. + </p> + <p> + A great many hunters rank the buffalo first among the dangerous beasts. + This is not my own opinion, but he is certainly dangerous enough. He + possesses the size, power, and truculence of the rhinoceros, together with + all that animal's keenness of scent and hearing but with a sharpness of + vision the rhinoceros has not. While not as clever as either the lion or + the elephant, he is tricky enough when angered to circle back for the + purpose of attacking his pursuers in the rear or flank, and to arrange + rather ingenious ambushes for the same purpose. He is rather more + tenacious of life than the rhinoceros, and will carry away an + extraordinary quantity of big bullets. Add to these considerations the + facts that buffaloes go in herds; and that, barring luck, chances are + about even they will have to be followed into the thickest cover, it can + readily be seen that their pursuit is exciting. + </p> + <p> + The problem would be simplified were one able or willing to slip into the + thicket or up to the grazing herd and kill the nearest beast that offers. + As a matter of fact an ordinary herd will contain only two or three bulls + worth shooting; and it is the hunter's delicate task to glide and crawl + here and there, with due regard for sight, scent and sound, until he has + picked one of these from the scores of undesirables. Many times will he + worm his way by inches toward the great black bodies half defined in the + screen of thick undergrowth only to find that he has stalked cows or small + bulls. Then inch by inch he must back out again, unable to see twenty + yards to either side, guiding himself by the probabilities of the faint + chance breezes in the thicket. To right and left he hears the quiet + continued crop, crop, crop, sound of animals grazing. The sweat runs down + his face in streams, and blinds his eyes, but only occasionally and with + the utmost caution can he raise his hand-or, better, lower his head-to + clear his vision. When at last he has withdrawn from the danger zone, he + wipes his face, takes a drink from the canteen, and tries again. Sooner or + later his presence comes to the notice of some old cow. Behind the leafy + screen where unsuspected she has been standing comes the most unexpected + and heart-jumping crash! Instantly the jungle all about roars into life. + The great bodies of the alarmed beasts hurl themselves through the + thicket, smash! bang! crash! smash! as though a tornado were uprooting the + forest. Then abruptly a complete silence! This lasts but ten seconds or + so; then off rushes the wild stampede in another direction; only again to + come to a listening halt of breathless stillness. So the hunter, unable to + see anything, and feeling very small, huddles with his gunbearers in a + compact group, listening to the wild surging short rushes, now this way, + now that, hoping that the stampede may not run over him. If by chance it + does, he has his two shots and the possibility of hugging a tree while the + rush divides around him. The latter is the most likely; a single buffalo + is hard enough to stop with two shots, let alone a herd. And yet, + sometimes, the mere flash and noise will suffice to turn them, provided + they are not actually trying to attack, but only rushing indefinitely + about. Probably a man can experience few more thrilling moments than he + will enjoy standing in one of the small leafy rooms of an African jungle + while several hundred tons of buffalo crash back and forth all around him. + </p> + <p> + In the best of circumstances it is only rarely that having identified his + big bull, the hunter can deliver a knockdown blow. The beast is + extraordinarily vital, and in addition it is exceedingly difficult to get + a fair, open shot. Then from the danger of being trampled down by the + blind and senseless stampede of the herd he passes to the more defined + peril from an angered and cunning single animal. The majority of + fatalities in hunting buffaloes happen while following wounded beasts. A + flank charge at close range may catch the most experienced man; and even + when clearly seen, it is difficult to stop. The buffalo's wide bosses are + a helmet to his brain, and the body shot is always chancy. The beast + tosses his victim, or tramples him, or pushes him against a tree to crush + him like a fly. + </p> + <p> + He who would get his trophy, however, is not always-perhaps is not + generally-forced into the thicket to get it. When not much disturbed, + buffaloes are in the habit of grazing out into the open just before dark; + and of returning to their thicket cover only well after sunrise. If the + hunter can arrange to meet his herd at such a time, he stands a very good + chance of getting a clear shot. The job then requires merely ordinary + caution and manoeuvring; and the only danger, outside the ever-present one + from the wounded beast, is that the herd may charge over him deliberately. + Therefore it is well to keep out of sight. + </p> + <p> + The difficulty generally is to locate your beasts. They wander all night, + and must be blundered upon in the early morning before they have drifted + back into the thickets. Sometimes, by sending skilled trackers in several + directions, they can be traced to where they have entered cover. A + messenger then brings the white man to the place, and every one tries to + guess at what spot the buffaloes are likely to emerge for their evening + stroll. It is remarkably easy to make a wrong guess, and the remaining + daylight is rarely sufficient to repair a mistake. And also, in the case + of a herd ranging a wide country with much tall grass and several drinking + holes, it is rather difficult, without very good luck, to locate them on + any given night or morning. A few herds, a very few, may have fixed + habits, and so prove easy hunting. + </p> + <p> + These difficulties, while in no way formidable, are real enough in their + small way; but they are immensely increased when the herds have been often + disturbed. Disturbance need not necessarily mean shooting. In countries + unvisited by white men often the pastoral natives will so annoy the + buffalo by shoutings and other means, whenever they appear near the tame + cattle, that the huge beasts will come practically nocturnal. In that case + only the rankest luck will avail to get a man a chance in the open. The + herds cling to cover until after sundown and just at dusk; and they return + again very soon after the first streaks of dawn. If the hunter just + happens to be at the exact spot, he may get a twilight shot when the + glimmering ivory of his front sight is barely visible. Otherwise he must + go into the thicket. + </p> + <p> + As an illustration of the first condition might be instanced an afternoon + on the Tana. The weather was very hot. We had sent three lots of men out + in different directions, each under the leadership of one of the + gunbearers, to scout, while we took it easy in the shade of our banda, or + grass shelter, on the bank of the river. About one o'clock a messenger + came into camp reporting that the men under Mavrouki had traced a herd to + its lying-down place. We took our heavy guns and started. + </p> + <p> + The way led through thin scrub up the long slope of a hill that broke on + the other side into undulating grass ridges that ended in a range of + hills. These were about four or five miles distant, and thinly wooded on + sides and lower slopes with what resembled a small live-oak growth. Among + these trees, our guide told us, the buffalo had first been sighted. + </p> + <p> + The sun was very hot, and all the animals were still. We saw impalla in + the scrub, and many giraffes and bucks on the plains. After an hour and a + half's walk we entered the parklike groves at the foot of the hills, and + our guide began to proceed more cautiously. He moved forward a few feet, + peered about, retraced his steps. Suddenly his face broke into a broad + grin. Following his indication we looked up, and there in a tree almost + above us roosted one of our boys sound asleep! We whistled at him. + Thereupon he awoke, tried to look very alert, and pointed in the direction + we should go. After an interval we picked up another sentinel, and + another, and another until, passed on thus from one to the next, we traced + the movements of the herd. Finally we came upon Mavrouki and Simba under a + bush. From them, in whispers, we learned that the buffalo were karibu + sana-very near; that they had fed this far, and were now lying in the long + grass just ahead. Leaving the men, we now continued our forward movement + on hands and knees, in single file. It was very hot work, for the sun beat + square down on us, and the tall grass kept off every breath of air. Every + few moments we rested, lying on our faces. Occasionally, when the grass + shortened, or the slant of ground tended to expose us, we lay quite flat + and hitched forward an inch at a time by the strength of our toes. This + was very severe work indeed, and we were drenched in perspiration. In + fact, as I had been feeling quite ill all day, it became rather doubtful + whether I could stand the pace. + </p> + <p> + However after a while we managed to drop down into an eroded deep little + ravine. Here the air was like that of a furnace, but at least we could + walk upright for a few rods. This we did, with the most extraordinary + precautions against even the breaking of a twig or the rolling of a + pebble. Then we clambered to the top of the bank, wormed our way forward + another fifty feet to the shelter of a tiny bush, and stretched out to + recuperate. We lay there some time, sheltered from the sun. Then ahead of + us suddenly rumbled a deep bellow. We were fairly upon the herd! + </p> + <p> + Cautiously F., who was nearest the centre of the bush, raised himself + alongside the stem to look. He could see where the beasts were lying, not + fifty yards away, but he could make out nothing but the fact of great + black bodies taking their ease in the grass under the shade of trees. So + much he reported to us; then rose again to keep watch. + </p> + <p> + Thus we waited the rest of the afternoon. The sun dipped at last toward + the west, a faint irregular breeze wandered down from the hills, certain + birds awoke and uttered their clear calls, an unsuspected kongoni stepped + from the shade of a tree over the way and began to crop the grass, the + shadows were lengthening through the trees. Then ahead of us an uneasiness + ran through the herd. We in the grass could hear the mutterings and + grumblings of many great animals. Suddenly F. snapped his fingers, stooped + low and darted forward. We scrambled to our feet and followed. + </p> + <p> + Across a short open space we ran, bent double to the shelter of a big ant + hill. Peering over the top of this we found ourselves within sixty yards + of a long compact column of the great black beasts, moving forward orderly + to the left, the points of the cow's horns, curved up and in, tossing + slowly as the animals walked. On the flank of the herd was a big gray + bull. + </p> + <p> + It had been agreed that B. was to have the shot. Therefore he opened fire + with his 405 Winchester, a weapon altogether too light for this sort of + work. At the shot the herd dashed forward to an open grass meadow a few + rods away, wheeled and faced back in a compact mass, their noses thrust up + and out in their typical fashion, trying with all their senses to locate + the cause of the disturbance. + </p> + <p> + Taking advantage both of the scattered cover, and the half light of the + shadows we slipped forward as rapidly and as unobtrusively as we could to + the edge of the grass meadow. Here we came to a stand eighty yards from + the buffaloes. They stood compactly like a herd of cattle, staring, + tossing their heads, moving slightly, their wild eyes searching for us. I + saw several good bulls, but always they moved where it was impossible to + shoot without danger of getting the wrong beast. Finally my chance came; I + planted a pair of Holland bullets in the shoulder of one of them. + </p> + <p> + The herd broke away to the right, sweeping past us at close range. My bull + ran thirty yards with them, then went down stone dead. When we examined + him we found the hole made by B.'s Winchester bullet; so that quite + unintentionally and by accident I had fired at the same beast. This was + lucky. The trophy, by hunter's law, of course, belonged to B. + </p> + <p> + Therefore F. and I alone followed on after the herd. It was now coming on + dusk. Within a hundred yards we began to see scattered beasts. The + formation of the herd had broken. Some had gone on in flight, while others + in small scattered groups would stop to stare back, and would then move + slowly on for a few paces before stopping again. Among these I made out a + bull facing us about a hundred and twenty-five yards away, and managed to + stagger him, but could not bring him down. + </p> + <p> + Now occurred an incident which I should hesitate to relate were it not + that both F. and myself saw it. We have since talked it over, compared our + recollections, and found them to coincide in every particular. + </p> + <p> + As we moved cautiously in pursuit of the slowly retreating herd three cows + broke back and came running down past us. We ducked aside and hid, of + course, but noticed that of the three two were very young, while one was + so old that she had become fairly emaciated, a very unusual thing with + buffaloes. We then followed the herd for twenty minutes, or until + twilight, when we turned back. About halfway down the slope we again met + the three cows, returning. They passed us within twenty yards, but paid us + no attention whatever. The old cow was coming along very reluctantly, + hanging back at every step, and every once in a while swinging her head + viciously at one or the other of her two companions. These escorted her on + either side, and a little to the rear. They were plainly urging her + forward, and did not hesitate to dig her in the ribs with their horns + whenever she turned especially obstinate. In fact they acted exactly like + a pair of cowboys HERDING a recalcitrant animal back to its band and I + have no doubt at all that when they first by us the old lady was making a + break for liberty in the wrong direction, AND THAT THE TWO YOUNGER COWS + WERE TRYING TO ROUND HER BACK! Whether they were her daughters or not is + problematical; but it certainly seemed that they were taking care of her + and trying to prevent her running back where it was dangerous to go. I + never heard of a similar case, though Herbert Ward* mentions, without + particulars that elephants AND BUFFALOES will assist each other WHEN + WOUNDED. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * A Voice from the Congo. +</pre> + <p> + After passing these we returned to where B. and the men, who had now come + up, had prepared the dead bull for transportation. We started at once, + travelling by the stars, shouting and singing to discourage the lions, but + did not reach camp until well into the night. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0026" id="link2H_4_0026"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXV. THE BUFFALO-continued + </h2> + <p> + Some months later, and many hundreds of miles farther south, Billy and I + found ourselves alone with twenty men, and two weeks to pass until C.-our + companion at the time-should return from a long journey out with a wounded + man. By slow stages, and relaying back and forth, we landed in a valley so + beautiful in every way that we resolved to stay as long as possible. This + could be but five days at most. At the end of that time we must start for + our prearranged rendezvous with C. + </p> + <p> + The valley was in the shape of an ellipse, the sides of which were formed + by great clifflike mountains, and the other two by hills lower, but still + of considerable boldness and size. The longest radius was perhaps six or + eight miles, and the shortest three or four. At one end a canyon dropped + away to a lower level, and at the other a pass in the hills gave over to + the country of the Narassara River. The name of the valley was Lengeetoto. + </p> + <p> + From the great mountains flowed many brooks of clear sparkling water, that + ran beneath the most beautiful of open jungles, to unite finally in one + main stream that disappeared down the canyon. Between these brooks were + low broad rolling hills, sometimes grass covered, sometimes grown thinly + with bushes. Where they headed in the mountains, long stringers of forest + trees ran up to blocklike groves, apparently pasted like wafers against + the base of the cliffs, but in reality occupying spacious slopes below + them. + </p> + <p> + We decided to camp at the foot of a long grass slant within a hundred + yards of the trees along one of the small streams. Before us we had the + sweep of brown grass rising to a clear cut skyline; and all about us the + distant great hills behind which the day dawned and fell. One afternoon a + herd of giraffes stood silhouetted on this skyline quite a half hour + gazing curiously down on our camp. Hartebeeste and zebra swarmed in the + grassy openings; and impalla in the brush. We saw sing-sing and steinbuck, + and other animals, and heard lions nearly every night. But principally we + elected to stay because a herd of buffaloes ranged the foothills and dwelt + in the groves of forest trees under the cliffs. We wanted a buffalo; and + as Lengeetoto is practically unknown to white men, we thought this a good + chance to get one. In that I reckoned without the fact that at certain + seasons the Masai bring their cattle in, and at such times annoy the + buffalo all they can. + </p> + <p> + We started out well enough. I sent Memba Sasa with two men to locate the + herd. About three o'clock a messenger came to camp after me. We plunged + through our own jungle, crossed a low swell, traversed another jungle, and + got in touch with the other two men. They reported the buffalo had entered + the thicket a few hundred yards below us. Cautiously reconnoitering the + ground it soon became evident that we would be forced more definitely to + locate the herd. To be sure, they had entered the stream jungle at a known + point, but there could be no telling how far they might continue in the + thicket, nor on what side of it they would emerge at sundown. Therefore we + commenced cautiously and slowly follow the trail. + </p> + <p> + The going was very thick, naturally, and we could not see very far ahead. + Our object was not now to try for a bull, but merely to find where the + herd was feeding, in order that we might wait for it to come out. However, + we were brought to a stand, in the middle of a jungle of green leaves, by + the cropping sound of a beast grazing just the other side of a bush. We + could not see it, and we stood stock still in the hope of escaping + discovery ourselves. But an instant later a sudden crash of wood told us + we had been seen. It was near work. The gunbearers crouched close to me. I + held the heavy double gun ready. If the beast had elected to charge I + would have had less than ten yards within which to stop it. Fortunately it + did not do so. But instantly the herd was afoot and off at full speed. A + locomotive amuck in a kindling pile could have made no more appalling a + succession of rending crashes than did those heavy animals rushing here + and there through the thick woody growth. We could see nothing. Twice the + rush started in our direction, but stopped as suddenly as it had begun, to + be succeeded by absolute stillness when everything, ourselves included, + held its breath to listen. Finally, the first panic over, the herd started + definitely away downstream. We ran as fast as we could out of the jungle + to a commanding position on the hill. Thence we could determine the course + of the herd. It continued on downstream as far as we could follow the + sounds in the convolutions of the hills. Realizing that it would + improbably recover enough from its alarmed condition to resume its regular + habits that day, we returned to camp. + </p> + <p> + Next morning Memba Sasa and I were afield before daylight. We took no + other men. In hunting I am a strong disbeliever in the common habit of + trailing along a small army. It is simple enough, in case the kill is + made, to send back for help. No matter how skilful your men are at + stalking, the chances of alarming the game are greatly increased by + numbers; while the possibilities of misunderstanding the plan of campaign, + and so getting into the wrong place at the wrong time, are infinite. + Alone, or with one gunbearer, a man can slip in and out a herd of + formidable animals with the least chances of danger. Merely going out + after camp meat is of course a different matter. + </p> + <p> + We did not follow in the direction taken by the herd the night before, but + struck off toward the opposite side of the valley. For two hours we + searched the wooded country at the base of the cliff mountains, working + slowly around the circle, examining every inlet, ravine and gully. Plenty + of other sorts of game we saw, including elephant tracks not a half hour + old; but no buffalo. About eight o'clock, however, while looking through + my glasses, I caught sight of some tiny chunky black dots crawling along + below the mountains diagonally across the valley, and somewhat over three + miles away. We started in that direction as fast as we could walk. At the + end of an hour we surmounted the last swell, and stood at the edge of a + steep drop. Immediately below us flowed a good-sized stream through a high + jungle over the tops of which we looked to a triangular gentle slope + overgrown with scattered bushes and high grass. Beyond this again ran + another jungle, angling up hill from the first, to end in a forest of + trees about thirty or forty acres in extent. This jungle and these trees + were backed up against the slope of the mountain. The buffaloes we had + first seen above the grove: they must now have sought cover among either + the trees or the lower jungle, and it seemed reasonable that the beasts + would emerge on the grass and bush area late in the afternoon. Therefore + Memba Sasa and I selected good comfortable sheltered spots, leaned our + backs against rocks, and resigned ourselves to long patience. It was now + about nine o'clock in the morning, and we could not expect our game to + come out before half past three at earliest. We could not, however, go + away to come back later because of the chance that the buffaloes might + take it into their heads to go travelling. I had been fooled that way + before. For this reason, also, it was necessary, every five minutes or so, + to examine carefully all our boundaries; lest the beasts might be slipping + away through the cover. + </p> + <p> + The hours passed very slowly. We made lunch last as long as possible. I + had in my pocket a small edition of Hawthorne's “The House of the Seven + Gables,” which I read, pausing every few minutes to raise my glasses for + the periodical examination of the country. The mental focussing back from + the pale gray half light of Hawthorne's New England to the actuality of + wild Africa was a most extraordinary experience. + </p> + <p> + Through the heat of the day the world lay absolutely silent. At about + half-past three, however, we heard rumblings and low bellows from the + trees a half mile away. I repocketed Hawthorne, and aroused myself to + continuous alertness. + </p> + <p> + The ensuing two hours passed more slowly than all the rest of the day, for + we were constantly on the lookout. The buffaloes delayed most singularly, + seemingly reluctant to leave their deep cover. The sun dropped behind the + mountains, and their shadow commenced to climb the opposite range. I + glanced at my watch. We had not more than a half hour of daylight left. + </p> + <p> + Fifteen minutes of this passed. It began to look as though our long and + monotonous wait had been quite in vain; when, right below us, and perhaps + five hundred yards away, four great black bodies fed leisurely from the + bushes. Three of them we could see plainly. Two were bulls of fair size. + The fourth, half concealed in the brush, was by far the biggest of the + lot. + </p> + <p> + In order to reach them we would have to slip down the face of the hill on + which we sat, cross the stream jungle at the bottom, climb out the other + side, and make our stalk to within range. With a half hour more of + daylight this would have been comparatively easy, but in such + circumstances it is difficult to move at the same time rapidly and unseen. + However, we decided to make the attempt. To that end we disencumbered + ourselves of all our extras-lunch box, book, kodak, glasses, etc.-and + wormed our way as rapidly as possible toward the bottom of the hill. We + utilized the cover as much as we were able, but nevertheless breathed a + sigh of relief when we had dropped below the line of the jungle. We wasted + very little time crossing the latter, save for precautions against noise. + Even in my haste, however, I had opportunity to notice its high and + austere character, with the arching overhead vines, and the clear freedom + from undergrowth in its heart. Across this cleared space we ran at full + speed, crouching below the grasp of the vines, splashed across the brook + and dashed up the other bank. Only a faint glimmer of light lingered in + the jungle. At the upper edge we paused, collected ourselves, and pushed + cautiously through the thick border-screen of bush. + </p> + <p> + The twilight was just fading into dusk. Of course we had taken our + bearings from the other hill; so now, after reassuring ourselves of them, + we began to wriggle our way at a great pace through the high grass. Our + calculations were quite accurate. We stalked successfully, and at last, + drenched in sweat, found ourselves lying flat within ten yards of a small + bush behind which we could make out dimly the black mass of the largest + beast we had seen from across the way. + </p> + <p> + Although it was now practically dark, we had the game in our own hands. + From our low position the animal, once it fed forward from behind the + single small bush, would be plainly outlined against the sky, and at ten + yards I should be able to place my heavy bullets properly, even in the + dark. Therefore, quite easy in our minds, we lay flat and rested. At the + end of twenty seconds the animal began to step forward. I levelled my + double gun, ready to press trigger the moment the shoulder appeared in the + clear. Then against the saffron sky emerged the ugly outline and two + upstanding horns of a rhinoceros! + </p> + <p> + “Faru!” I whispered disgustedly to Memba Sasa. With infinite pains we + backed out, then retreated to a safe distance. It was of course now too + late to hunt up the three genuine buffaloes of this ill-assorted group. + </p> + <p> + In fact our main necessity was to get through the river jungle before the + afterglow had faded from the sky, leaving us in pitch darkness. I sent + Memba Sasa across to pick up the effects we had left on the opposite + ridge, while I myself struck directly across the flat toward camp. + </p> + <p> + I had plunged ahead thus, for two or three hundred yards, when I was + brought up short by the violent snort of a rhinoceros just off the + starboard bow. He was very close, but I was unable to locate him in the + dusk. A cautious retreat and change of course cleared me from him, and I + was about to start on again full speed when once more I was halted by + another rhinoceros, this time dead ahead. Attempting to back away from + him, I aroused another in my rear; and as though this were not enough a + fourth opened up to the left. + </p> + <p> + It was absolutely impossible to see anything ten yards away unless it + happened to be silhouetted against the sky. I backed cautiously toward a + little bush, with a vague idea of having something to dodge around. As the + old hunter said when, unarmed, he met the bear, “Anything, even a + newspaper, would have come handy.” To my great joy I backed against a + conical ant hill four or five feet high. This I ascended and began + anti-rhino demonstrations. I had no time to fool with rhinos, anyway. I + wanted to get through that jungle before the leopards left their family + circles. I hurled clods of earth and opprobrious shouts and epithets in + the four directions of my four obstreperous friends, and I thought I + counted four reluctant departures. Then, with considerable doubt, I + descended from my ant hill and hurried down the slope, stumbling over + grass hummocks, colliding with bushes, tangling with vines, but + progressing in a gratifyingly rhinoless condition. Five minutes cautious + but rapid feeling my way brought me through the jungle. Shortly after I + raised the campfires; and so got home. + </p> + <p> + The next two days were repetitions, with slight variation, of this + experience, minus the rhinos! Starting from camp before daylight we were + only in time to see the herd-always aggravatingly on the other side of the + cover, no matter which side we selected for our approach, slowly grazing + into the dense jungle. And always they emerged so late and so far away + that our very best efforts failed to get us near them before dark. The + margin always so narrow, however, that our hopes were alive. + </p> + <p> + On the fourth day, which must be our last in Longeetoto, we found that the + herd had shifted to fresh cover three miles along the base of the + mountains. We had no faith in those buffaloes, but about half-past three + we sallied forth dutifully and took position on a hill overlooking the new + hiding place. This consisted of a wide grove of forest trees varied by + occasional open glades and many dense thickets. So eager were we to win + what had by now developed into a contest that I refused to shoot a lioness + with a three-quarters-grown cub that appeared within easy shot from some + reeds below us. + </p> + <p> + Time passed as usual until nearly sunset. Then through an opening into one + of the small glades we caught sight of the herd travelling slowly but + steadily from right to left. The glimpse was only momentary, but it was + sufficient to indicate the direction from which we might expect them to + emerge. Therefore we ran at top speed down from our own hill, tore through + the jungle at its foot, and hastily, but with more caution, mounted the + opposite slope through the scattered groves and high grass. We could hear + occasionally indications of the buffaloes' slow advance, and we wanted to + gain a good ambuscade above them before they emerged. We found it in the + shape of a small conical hillock perched on the side hill itself, and + covered with long grass. It commanded open vistas through the scattered + trees in all directions. And the thicket itself ended not fifty yards + away. No buffalo could possibly come out without our seeing him; and we + had a good half hour of clear daylight before us. It really seemed that + luck had changed at last. + </p> + <p> + We settled ourselves, unlimbered for action, and got our breath. The + buffaloes came nearer and nearer. At length, through a tiny opening a + hundred yards away, we could catch momentary glimpses of their great black + bodies. I thrust forward the safety catch and waited. Finally a half dozen + of the huge beasts were feeding not six feet inside the circle of brush, + and only thirty-odd yards from where we lay. + </p> + <p> + And they came no farther! I never passed a more heart-breaking half hour + of suspense than that in which little by little the daylight and our hopes + faded, while those confounded buffaloes moved slowly out to the very edge + of the thicket, turned, and moved as slowly back again. At times they came + actually into view. We could see their sleek black bodies rolling lazily + into sight and back again, like seals on the surface of water, but never + could we make out more than that. I could have had a dozen good shots, but + I could not even guess what I would be shooting at. And the daylight + drained away and the minutes ticked by! + </p> + <p> + Finally, as I could see no end to this performance save that to which we + had been so sickeningly accustomed in the last four days, I motioned to + Memba Sasa, and together we glided like shadows into the thicket. + </p> + <p> + There it was already dusk. We sneaked breathlessly through the small + openings, desperately in a hurry, almost painfully on the alert. In the + dark shadow sixty yards ahead stood a half dozen monstrous bodies all + facing our way. They suspected the presence of something unusual, but in + the darkness and the stillness they could neither identify it nor locate + it exactly. I dropped on one knee and snatched my prism glasses to my + eyes. The magnification enabled me to see partially into the shadows. + Every one of the group carried the sharply inturned points to the horns: + they were all cows! + </p> + <p> + An instant after I had made out this fact, they stampeded across our face. + The whole band thundered and crashed away. + </p> + <p> + Desperately we sprang after them, our guns atrail, our bodies stooped low + to keep down in the shadow of the earth. And suddenly, without the + slightest warning we plumped around a bush square on top of the entire + herd. It had stopped and was staring back in our direction. I could see + nothing but the wild toss of a hundred pair of horns silhouetted against + such of the irregular saffron afterglow as had not been blocked off by the + twigs and branches of the thicket. All below was indistinguishable + blackness. + </p> + <p> + They stood in a long compact semicircular line thirty yards away, quite + still, evidently staring intently into the dusk to find out what had + alarmed them. At any moment they were likely to make another rush; and if + they did so in the direction they were facing, they would most certainly + run over us and trample us down. + </p> + <p> + Remembering the dusk I thought it likely that the unexpected vivid flash + of the gun might turn them off before they got started. Therefore I raised + the big double Holland, aimed below the line of heads, and was just about + to pull trigger when my eye caught the silhouette of a pair of horns whose + tips spread out instead of turning in. This was a bull, and I immediately + shifted the gun in his direction. At the heavy double report, the herd + broke wildly to right and left and thundered away. I confess I was quite + relieved. + </p> + <p> + A low moaning bellow told us that our bull was down. The last few days' + experience at being out late had taught us wisdom so Memba Sasa had + brought a lantern. By the light of this, we discovered our bull down, and + all but dead. To make sure, I put a Winchester bullet into his backbone. + </p> + <p> + We felt ourselves legitimately open to congratulations, for we had killed + this bull from a practically nocturnal herd, in the face of considerable + danger and more than considerable difficulty. Therefore we shook hands and + made appropriate remarks to each other, lacking anybody to make them for + us. + </p> + <p> + By now it was pitch dark in the thicket, and just about so outside. We had + to do a little planning. I took the Holland gun, gave Memba Sasa the + Winchester, and started him for camp after help. As he carried off the + lantern, it was now up to me to make a fire and to make it quickly. + </p> + <p> + For the past hour a fine drizzle had been falling; and the whole country + was wet from previous rains. I hastily dragged in all the dead wood I + could find near, collected what ought to be good kindling, and started in + to light a fire. Now, although I am no Boy Scout, I have lit several fires + in my time. But never when I was at the same time in such a desperate need + and hurry; and in possession of such poor materials. The harder I worked, + the worse things sputtered and smouldered. Probably the relief from the + long tension of the buffalo hunt had something to do with my general + piffling inefficiency. If I had taken time to do a proper job once instead + of a halfway job a dozen times, as I should have done and usually would + have done, I would have had a fire in no time. I imagine I was somewhat + scared. The lioness and her hulking cub had smelled the buffalo and were + prowling around. I could hear them purring and uttering their hollow + grunts. However, at last the flame held. I fed it sparingly, lit a pipe, + placed the Holland gun next my hand, and resigned myself to waiting. For + two hours this was not so bad. I smoked, and rested up, and dried out + before my little fire. Then my fuel began to run low. I arose and tore + down all the remaining dead limbs within the circle of my firelight. These + were not many, so I stepped out into the darkness for more. Immediately I + was warned back by a deep growl! + </p> + <p> + The next hour was not one of such solid comfort. I began to get + parsimonious about my supply of firewood, trying to use it in such a + manner as to keep up an adequate blaze, and at the same time to make it + last until Memba Sasa should return with the men. I did it, though I got + down to charred ends before I was through. The old lioness hung around + within a hundred yards or so below, and the buffalo herd, returning, filed + by above, pausing to stamp and snort at the fire. Finally, about nine + o'clock, I made out two lanterns bobbing up to me through the trees. + </p> + <p> + The last incident to be selected from many experiences with buffaloes took + place in quite an unvisited district over the mountains from the Loieta + Plains. For nearly two months we had ranged far in this lovely upland + country of groves and valleys and wide grass bottoms between hills, + hunting for greater kudu. One day we all set out from camp to sweep the + base of a range of low mountains in search of a good specimen of Newman's + hartebeeste, or anything else especially desirable that might happen + along. The gentle slope from the mountains was of grass cut by numerous + small ravines grown with low brush. This brush was so scanty as to afford + but indifferent cover for anything larger than one of the small grass + antelopes. All the ravines led down a mile or so to a deeper main + watercourse paralleling the mountains. Some water stood in the pools here; + and the cover was a little more dense, but consisted at best of but a + “stringer” no wider than a city street. Flanking the stringer were + scattered high bushes for a few yards; and then the open country. + Altogether as unlikely a place for the shade-loving buffalo as could be + imagined. + </p> + <p> + We collected our Newmanii after rather a long hunt; and just at noon, when + the heat of the day began to come on, we wandered down to the water for + lunch. Here we found a good clear pool and drank. The boys began to make + themselves comfortable by the water's edge; C. went to superintend the + disposal of Billy's mule. Billy had sat down beneath the shade of the most + hospitable of the bushes a hundred feet or so away, and was taking off her + veil and gloves. I was carrying to her the lunch box. When I was about + halfway from where the boys were drinking at the stream's edge to where + she sat, a buffalo bull thrust his head from the bushes just the other + side of her. His head was thrust up and forward, as he reached after some + of the higher tender leaves on the bushes. So close was he that I could + see plainly the drops glistening on his moist black nose. As for Billy, + peacefully unwinding her long veil, she seemed fairly under the beast. + </p> + <p> + I had no weapon, and any moment might bring some word or some noise that + would catch the animal's attention. Fortunately, for the moment, every + one, relaxed in the first reaction after the long morning, was keeping + silence. If the buffalo should look down, he could not fail to see Billy; + and if he saw her, he would indubitably kill her. + </p> + <p> + As has been explained, snapping the fingers does not seem to reach the + attention of wild animals. Therefore I snapped mine as vigorously as I + knew how. Billy heard, looked toward me, turned in the direction of my + gaze, and slowly sank prone against the ground. Some of the boys heard me + also, and I could see the heads of all of them popping up in interest from + the banks of the stream. My cautious but very frantic signals to lie low + were understood: the heads dropped back. Mavrouki, a rifle in each hand, + came worming his way toward me through the grass with incredible quickness + and agility. A moment later he thrust the 405 Winchester into my hand. + </p> + <p> + This weapon, powerful and accurate as it is, the best of the lot for + lions, was altogether too small for the tremendous brute before me. + However, the Holland was in camp; and I was very glad in the circumstances + to get this. The buffalo had browsed slowly forward into the clear, and + was now taking the top off a small bush, and facing half away from us. It + seemed to me quite the largest buffalo I had ever seen, though I should + have been willing to have acknowledged at that moment that the + circumstances had something to do with the estimate. However, later we + found that the impression was correct. He was verily a giant of his kind. + His height at the shoulder was five feet ten inches; and his build was + even chunkier than the usual solid robust pattern of buffaloes. For + example, his neck, just back of the horns, was two feet eight inches + thick! He weighed not far from three thousand pounds. + </p> + <p> + Once the rifle was in my hands I lost the feeling of utter helplessness, + and began to plan the best way out of the situation. As yet the beast was + totally unconscious of our presence; but that could not continue long. + There were too many men about. A chance current of air from any one of a + half dozen directions could not fail to give him the scent. Then there + would be lively doings. It was exceedingly desirable to deliver the first + careful blow of the engagement while he was unaware. On the other hand, + his present attitude-half away from me-was not favourable; nor, in my + exposed position dared I move to a better place. There seemed nothing + better than to wait; so wait we did. Mavrouki crouched close at my elbow, + showing not the faintest indication of a desire to be anywhere but there. + </p> + <p> + The buffalo browsed for a minute or so; then swung slowly broadside on. So + massive and low were the bosses of his horns that the brain shot was + impossible. Therefore I aimed low in the shoulder. The shock of the bullet + actually knocked that great beast off his feet! My respect for the hitting + power of the 405 went up several notches. The only trouble was that he + rebounded like a rubber ball. Without an instant's hesitation I gave him + another in the same place. This brought him to his knees for an instant; + but he was immediately afoot again. Billy had, with great good sense and + courage, continued to lie absolutely flat within a few yards of the beast, + Mavrouki and I had kept low, and C. and the men were out of sight. The + buffalo therefore had seen none of his antagonists. He charged at a guess, + and guessed wrong. As he went by I fired at his head, and, as we found out + afterward, broke his jaw. A moment later C.'s great elephant gun roared + from somewhere behind me as he fired by a glimpse through the brush at the + charging animal. It was an excellent snapshot, and landed back of the + ribs. + </p> + <p> + When the buffalo broke through the screen of brush I dashed after him, for + I thought our only chance of avoiding danger lay in keeping close track of + where that buffalo went. On the other side the bushes I found a little + grassy opening, and then a small but dense thicket into which the animal + had plunged. To my left, C. was running up, followed closely by Billy, + who, with her usual good sense, had figured out the safest place to be + immediately back of the guns. We came together at the thicket's edge. + </p> + <p> + The animal's movements could be plainly followed by the sound of his + crashing. We heard him dash away some distance, pause, circle a bit to the + right, and then come rushing back in our direction. Stooping low we peered + into the darkness of the thicket. Suddenly we saw him, not a dozen yards + away. He was still afoot, but very slow. I dropped the magazine of five + shots into him as fast as I could work the lever. We later found all the + bullet-holes in a spot as big as the palm of your hand. These successive + heavy blows delivered all in the same place were too much for even his + tremendous vitality; and slowly he sank on his side. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0027" id="link2H_4_0027"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXVI. JUJA + </h2> + <p> + Most people have heard of Juja, the modern dwelling in the heart of an + African wilderness, belonging to our own countryman, Mr. W. N. McMillan. + If most people are as I was before I saw the place, they have considerable + curiosity and no knowledge of what it is and how it looks. + </p> + <p> + We came to Juja at the end of a wide circle that had lasted three months, + and was now bringing us back again toward our starting point. For five + days we had been camped on top a high bluff at the junction of two rivers. + When we moved we dropped down the bluff, crossed one river, and, after + some searching, found our way up the other bluff. There we were on a vast + plain bounded by mountains thirty miles away. A large white and unexpected + sign told us we were on Juja Farm, and warned us that we should be careful + of our fires in the long grass. + </p> + <p> + For an hour we plodded slowly along. Herds of zebra and hartebeeste drew + aside before us, dark heavy wildebeeste-the gnu-stood in groups at a safe + distance their heads low, looking exactly like our vanished bison; + ghostlike bands of Thompson's gazelles glided away with their smooth + regular motion. On the vast and treeless plains single small objects + standing above the general uniformity took an exaggerated value; so that, + before it emerged from the swirling heat mirage, a solitary tree might + easily be mistaken for a group of buildings or a grove. Finally, however, + we raised above the horizon a dark straight clump of trees. It danced in + the mirage, and blurred and changed form, but it persisted. A strange + patch of white kept appearing and disappearing again. This resolved itself + into the side of a building. A spider-legged water tower appeared above + the trees. + </p> + <p> + Gradually we drew up on these. A bit later we swung to the right around a + close wire fence ten feet high, passed through a gate, and rode down a + long slanting avenue of young trees. Between the trees were century plants + and flowers, and a clipped border ran before them. The avenue ended before + a low white bungalow, with shady verandas all about it, and vines. A + formal flower garden lay immediately about it, and a very tall flag pole + had been planted in front. A hundred feet away the garden dropped off + steep to one of the deep river canyons. + </p> + <p> + Two white-robed Somalis appeared on the veranda to inform us that McMillan + was off on safari. Our own boys approaching at this moment, we thereupon + led them past the house, down another long avenue of trees and flowers, + out into an open space with many buildings at its edges, past extensive + stables, and through another gate to the open plains once more. Here we + made camp. After lunch we went back to explore. + </p> + <p> + Juja is situated on the top of a high bluff overlooking a river. In all + directions are tremendous grass plains. Donya Sabuk-the Mountain of + Buffaloes-is the only landmark nearer than the dim mountains beyond the + edge of the world, and that is a day's journey away. A rectangle of + possibly forty acres has been enclosed on three sides by animal-proof wire + fence. The fourth side is the edge of the bluff. Within this enclosure + have been planted many trees, now of good size; a pretty garden with + abundance of flowers, ornamental shrubs, a sundial, and lawns. In the + river bottom land below the bluff is a very extensive vegetable and fruit + garden, with cornfields, and experimental plantings of rubber, and the + like. For the use of the people of Juja here are raised a great variety + and abundance of vegetables, fruits, and grains. + </p> + <p> + Juja House, as has been said, stands back a hundred feet from a bend in + the bluffs that permits a view straight up the river valley. It is + surrounded by gardens and trees, and occupies all one end of the enclosed + rectangle. Farther down and perched on the edge of a bluff, are several + pretty little bungalows for the accommodation of the superintendent and + his family, for the bachelors' mess, for the farm offices and dispensary, + and for the dairy room, the ice-plant and the post-office and telegraph + station. Back of and inland from this row on the edge of the cliff, and + scattered widely in open space, are a large store stocked with everything + on earth, the Somali quarters of low whitewashed buildings, the cattle + corrals, the stables, wild animal cages, granaries, blacksmith and + carpenter shops, wagon sheds and the like. Outside the enclosure, and a + half mile away, are the conical grass huts that make up the native + village. Below the cliff is a concrete dam, an electric light plant, a + pumping plant and a few details of the sort. + </p> + <p> + Such is a relief map of Juja proper. Four miles away, and on another + river, is Long Juja, a strictly utilitarian affair where grow ostriches, + cattle, sheep, and various irrigated things in the bottom land. All the + rest of the farm, or estate, or whatever one would call it, is open plain, + with here and there a river bottom, or a trifle of brush cover. But never + enough to constitute more than an isolated and lonesome patch. + </p> + <p> + Before leaving London we had received from McMillan earnest assurances + that he kept open house, and that we must take advantage of his + hospitality should we happen his way. Therefore when one of his + white-robed Somalis approached us to inquire respectfully as to what we + wanted for dinner, we yielded weakly to the temptation and told him. Then + we marched us boldly to the house and took possession. + </p> + <p> + All around the house ran a veranda, shaded bamboo curtains and vines, + furnished with the luxurious teakwood chairs of the tropics of which you + can so extend the arms as to form two comfortable and elevated rests for + your feet. Horns of various animals ornamented the walls. A megaphone and + a huge terrestrial telescope on a tripod stood in one corner. Through the + latter one could examine at favourable times the herds of game on the + plains. + </p> + <p> + And inside-mind you, we were fresh from three months in the wilderness-we + found rugs, pictures, wall paper, a pianola, many books, baths, beautiful + white bedrooms with snowy mosquito curtains, electric lights, running + water, and above all an atmosphere of homelike comfort. We fell into easy + chairs, and seized books and magazines. The Somalis brought us trays with + iced and fizzy drinks in thin glasses. When the time came we crossed the + veranda in the rear to enter a spacious separate dining-room. The table + was white with napery, glittering with silver and glass, bright with + flowers. We ate leisurely of a well-served course dinner, ending with + black coffee, shelled nuts, and candied fruit. Replete and satisfied we + strolled back across the veranda to the main house. F. raised his hand. + </p> + <p> + “Hark!” he admonished us. + </p> + <p> + We held still. From the velvet darkness came the hurried petulant barking + of zebra; three hyenas howled. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0028" id="link2H_4_0028"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXVII. A VISIT AT JUJA + </h2> + <p> + Next day we left all this; and continued our march. About a month later, + however, we encountered McMillan himself in Nairobi. I was just out from a + very hard trip to the coast-Billy not with me-and wanted nothing so much + as a few days' rest. McMillan's cordiality was not to be denied, however, + so the very next day found us tucking ourselves into a buckboard behind + four white Abyssinian mules. McMillan, some Somalis and Captain Duirs came + along in another similar rig. Our driver was a Hottentot half-caste from + South Africa. He had a flat face, a yellow skin, a quiet manner, and a + competent hand. His name was Michael. At his feet crouched a small Kikuyu + savage, in blanket ear ornaments and all the fixings, armed with a long + lashed whip and raucous voice. At any given moment he was likely to hop + out over the moving wheel, run forward, bat the off leading mule, and hop + back again, all with the most extraordinary agility. He likewise hurled + what sounded like very opprobrious epithets at such natives as did not get + out the way quickly enough to suit him. The expression of his face, which + was that of a person steeped in woe, never changed. + </p> + <p> + We rattled out of Nairobi at a great pace, and swung into the Fort Hall + Road. This famous thoroughfare, one of the three or four made roads in all + East Africa, is about sixty miles long. It is a strategic necessity but is + used by thousands of natives on their way to see the sights of the great + metropolis. As during the season there is no water for much of the + distance, a great many pay for their curiosity with their lives. The road + skirts the base of the hills, winding in and out of shallow canyons and + about the edges of rounded hills. To the right one can see far out across + the Athi Plains. + </p> + <p> + We met an almost unbroken succession of people. There were long pack + trains of women, quite cheerful, bent over under the weight of firewood or + vegetables, many with babies tucked away in the folds of their garments; + mincing dandified warriors with poodle-dog hair, skewers in their ears, + their jewelery brought to a high polish a fatuous expression of + self-satisfaction on their faces, carrying each a section of sugarcane + which they now used as a staff but would later devour for lunch; bearers, + under convoy of straight soldierly red-sashed Sudanese, transporting + Government goods; wild-eyed staring shenzis from the forest, with matted + hair and goatskin garments, looking ready to bolt aside at the slightest + alarm; coveys of marvellous and giggling damsels, their fine-grained skin + anointed and shining with red oil, strung with beads and shells, very + coquettish and sure of their feminine charm; naked small boys marching + solemnly like their elders; camel trains from far-off Abyssinia or + Somaliland under convoy of white-clad turbaned grave men of beautiful + features; donkey safaris in charge of dirty degenerate looking East + Indians carrying trade goods to some distant post-all these and many more, + going one way or the other, drew one side, at the sight of our white + faces, to let us pass. + </p> + <p> + About two o'clock we suddenly turned off from the road, apparently quite + at random, down the long grassy interminable incline that dipped slowly + down and slowly up again over great distance to form the Athi Plains. + Along the road, with its endless swarm of humanity, we had seen no game, + but after a half mile it began to appear. We encountered herds of zebra, + kongoni, wildebeeste, and “Tommies” standing about or grazing, sometimes + almost within range from the moving buckboard. After a time we made out + the trees and water tower of Juja ahead; and by four o'clock had turned + into the avenue of trees. Our approach had been seen. Tea was ready, and a + great and hospitable table of bottles, ice, and siphons. + </p> + <p> + The next morning we inspected the stables, built of stone in a hollow + square, like a fort, with box stalls opening directly into the courtyard + and screened carefully against the deadly flies. The horses, beautiful + creatures, were led forth each by his proud and anxious syce. We tried + them all, and selected our mounts for the time of our stay. The syces were + small black men, lean and well formed, accustomed to running afoot + wherever their charges went, at walk, lope or gallop. Thus in a day they + covered incredible distances over all sorts of country; but were always at + hand to seize the bridle reins when the master wished to dismount. Like + the rickshaw runners in Nairobi, they wore their hair clipped close around + their bullet heads and seemed to have developed into a small compact hard + type of their own. They ate and slept with their horses. + </p> + <p> + Just outside the courtyard of the stables a little barred window had been + cut through. Near this were congregated a number of Kikuyu savages wrapped + in their blankets, receiving each in turn a portion of cracked corn from a + dusty white man behind the bars. They were a solemn, unsmiling, strange + type of savage, and they performed all the manual work within the + enclosure, squatting on their heels and pulling methodically but slowly at + the weeds, digging with their pangas, carrying loads: to and fro, or + solemnly pushing a lawn mower, blankets wrapped shamelessly about their + necks. They were harried about by a red-faced beefy English gardener with + a marvellous vocabulary of several native languages and a short hippo-hide + whip. He talked himself absolutely purple in the face without, as far as + my observation went, penetrating an inch below the surface. The Kikuyus + went right on doing what they were already doing in exactly the same + manner. Probably the purple Englishman was satisfied with that, but I am + sure apoplexy of either the heat or thundering variety has him by now. + </p> + <p> + Before the store building squatted another group of savages. Perhaps in + time one of the lot expected to buy something; or possibly they just sat. + Nobody but a storekeeper would ever have time to find out. Such is the + native way. The storekeeper in this case was named John. Besides being + storekeeper, he had charge of the issuing of all the house supplies, and + those for the white men's mess; he must do all the worrying about the + upper class natives; he must occasionally kill a buck for the meat supply; + and he must be prepared to take out any stray tenderfeet that happen along + during McMillan's absence, and persuade them that they are mighty hunters. + His domain was a fascinating place, for it contained everything from + pianola parts to patent washstands. The next best equipped place of the + kind I know of is the property room of a moving picture company. + </p> + <p> + We went to mail a letter, and found the postmaster to be a gentle-voiced, + polite little Hindu, who greeted us smilingly, and attempted to conceal a + work of art. We insisted; whereupon he deprecatingly drew forth a copy of + a newspaper cartoon having to do with Colonel Roosevelt's visit. It was + copied with mathematical exactness, and highly coloured in a manner to + throw into profound melancholy the chauffeur of a coloured supplement + press. We admired and praised; whereupon, still shyly, he produced more, + and yet again more copies of the same cartoon. When we left, he was + reseating himself to the painstaking valueless labour with which he filled + his days. Three times a week such mail as Juja gets comes in via native + runner. We saw the latter, a splendid figure, almost naked, loping easily, + his little bundle held before him. + </p> + <p> + Down past the office and dispensary we strolled, by the comfortable, airy, + white man's clubhouse. The headman of the native population passed us with + a dignified salute; a fine upstanding deep-chested man, with a lofty air + of fierce pride. He and his handful of soldiers alone of the natives, + except the Somalis and syces, dwelt within the compound in a group of huts + near the gate. There when off duty they might be seen polishing their + arms, or chatting with their women. The latter were ladies of leisure, + with wonderful chignons, much jewelery, and patterned Mericani wrapped + gracefully about their pretty figures. + </p> + <p> + By the time we had seen all these things it was noon. We ate lunch. The + various members of the party decided to do various things. I elected to go + out with McMillan while he killed a wildebeeste, and I am very glad I did. + It was a most astonishing performance. + </p> + <p> + You must imagine us driving out the gate in a buckboard behind four small + but lively white Abyssinian mules. In the front seat were Michael, the + Hottentot driver, and McMillan's Somali gunbearer. In the rear seat were + McMillan and myself, while a small black syce perched precariously behind. + Our rifles rested in a sling before us. So we jogged out on the road to + Long Juju, examining with a critical eye the herds of game to right and + left of us. The latter examined us, apparently, with an eye as critical. + Finally, in a herd of zebra, we espied a lone wildebeeste. + </p> + <p> + The wildebeeste is the Jekyll and Hyde of the animal kingdom. His usual + and familiar habit is that of a heavy, sluggish animal, like our vanished + bison. He stands solid and inert, his head down; he plods slowly forward + in single file, his horns swinging, each foot planted deliberately. In + short, he is the personification of dignity, solid respectability, gravity + of demeanour. But then all of a sudden, at any small interruption, he + becomes the giddiest of created beings. Up goes his head and tail, he buck + jumps, cavorts, gambols, kicks up his heels, bounds stiff-legged, and + generally performs like an irresponsible infant. To see a whole herd at + once of these grave and reverend seigneurs suddenly blow up into such + light-headed capers goes far to destroy one's faith in the stability of + institutions. + </p> + <p> + Also the wildebeeste is not misnamed. He is a conservative, and he sees no + particular reason for allowing his curiosity to interfere with his + preconceived beliefs. The latter are distrustful. Therefore he and his + females and his young-I should say small-depart when one is yet far away. + I say small, because I do not believe that any wildebeeste is ever young. + They do not resemble calves, but are exact replicas of the big ones, just + as Niobe's daughters are in nothing childlike, but merely smaller women. + </p> + <p> + When we caught sight of this lone wildebeeste among the zebra, I naturally + expected that we would pull up the buckboard, descend, and approach to + within some sort of long range. Then we would open fire. Barring luck, the + wildebeeste would thereupon depart “wilder and beestier than ever,” as + John McCutcheon has it. Not at all! Michael, the Hottentot, turned the + buckboard off the road, headed toward the distant quarry, and charged at + full speed! Over stones we went that sent us feet into the air, down and + out of shallow gullies that seemed as though they would jerk the pole from + the vehicle with a grand rattlety-bang, every one hanging on for his life. + I was entirely occupied with the state of my spinal column and the + retention of my teeth, but McMillan must have been keeping his eye on the + game. One peculiarity of the wildebeeste is that he cannot see behind him, + and another is that he is curious. It would not require a very large bump + of curiosity, however, to cause any animal to wonder what all the row was + about. There could be no doubt that this animal would sooner or later stop + for an instant to look for the purpose of seeing what was up in + jungleland; and just before doing so he would, for a few steps, slow down + from a gallop to a trot. McMillan was watching for this symptom. + </p> + <p> + “Now!” he yelled, when he saw it. + </p> + <p> + Instantly Michael threw his weight into the right rein and against the + brake. We swerved so violently to the right and stopped so suddenly that I + nearly landed on the broad prairies. The manoeuvre fetched us up + broadside. The small black syce-and heaven knows how HE had managed to + hang on-darted to the heads of the leading mules. At the same moment the + wildebeeste turned, and stopped; but even before he had swung his head, + McMillan had fired. It was extraordinarily good, quick work, the way he + picked up the long range from the spurts of dust where the bullets hit. At + the third or fourth shots he landed one. Immediately the beast was off + again at a tearing run pursued by a rapid fusillade from the remaining + shots. Then with a violent jerk and a wild yell we were off again. + </p> + <p> + This time, since the animal was wounded, he made for rougher country. And + everywhere that wildebeeste went we too were sure to go. We hit or shaved + boulders that ought to have smashed a wheel, we tore through thick brush + regardless. Twice we charged unhesitatingly over apparent precipices. I do + not know the name of the manufacturer of the buckboard. If I did, I should + certainly recommend it here. Twice more we swerved to our broadside and + cut loose the port batteries. Once more McMillan hit. Then, on the fourth + “run,” we gained perceptibly. The beast was weakening. When he came to a + stumbling halt we were not over a hundred yards from him, and McMillan + easily brought him down. We had chased him four or five miles, and + McMillan had fired nineteen shots, of which two had hit. The rifle + practice throughout had been remarkably good, and a treat to watch. + Personally, besides the fun of attending the show, I got a mighty good + afternoon's exercise. + </p> + <p> + We loaded the game aboard and jogged slowly back to the house, for the + mules were pretty tired. We found a neighbour, Mr. Heatley of Kamiti Ranch + who had “dropped down” twelve miles to see us. On account of a theft + McMillan now had all the Somalis assembled for interrogation on the side + verandas. The interrogation did not amount to much, but while it was going + on the Sudanese headman and his askaris were quietly searching the boys' + quarters. After a time they appeared. The suspected men had concealed + nothing, but the searchers brought with them three of McMillan's shirts + which they had found among the effects of another, and entirely + unsuspected, boy named Abadie. + </p> + <p> + “How is this, Abadie?” demanded McMillan sternly. + </p> + <p> + Abadie hesitated. Then he evidently reflected that there is slight use in + having a deity unless one makes use of him. + </p> + <p> + “Bwana,” said he with an engaging air of belief and candour, “God must + have put them there!” + </p> + <p> + That evening we planned a “general day” for the morrow. We took boys and + buckboards and saddle-horses, beaters, shotguns, rifles, and revolvers, + and we sallied forth for a grand and joyous time. The day from a sporting + standpoint was entirely successful, the bag consisting of two waterbuck, a + zebra, a big wart-hog, six hares, and six grouse. Personally I was a + little hazy and uncertain. By evening the fever had me, and though I + stayed at Juja for six days longer, it was as a patient to McMillan's + unfailing kindness rather than as a participant in the life of the farm. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0029" id="link2H_4_0029"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXVIII. A RESIDENCE AT JUJA + </h2> + <p> + A short time later, at about middle of the rainy season, McMillan left for + a little fishing off Catalina Island. The latter is some fourteen thousand + miles of travel from Juja. Before leaving on this flying trip, McMillan + made us a gorgeous offer. + </p> + <p> + “If,” said he, “you want to go it alone, you can go out and use Juja as + long as you please.” + </p> + <p> + This offer, or, rather, a portion of it, you may be sure, we accepted + promptly. McMillan wanted in addition to leave us his servants; but to + this we would not agree. Memba Sasa and Mahomet were, of course, members + of our permanent staff. In addition to them we picked up another house + boy, named Leyeye. He was a Masai. These proud and aristocratic savages + rarely condescend to take service of any sort except as herders; but when + they do they prove to be unusually efficient and intelligent. We had also + a Somali cook, and six ordinary bearers to do general labour. This small + safari we started off afoot for Juja. The whole lot cost us about what we + would pay one Chinaman on the Pacific Coast. + </p> + <p> + Next day we ourselves drove out in the mule buckboard. The rains were on, + and the road was very muddy. After the vital tropical fashion the grass + was springing tall in the natural meadows and on the plains and the + brief-lived white lilies and an abundance of ground flowers washed the + slopes with colour. Beneath the grass covering, the entire surface of the + ground was an inch or so deep in water. This was always most surprising, + for, apparently, the whole country should have been high and dry. + Certainly its level was that of a plateau rather than a bottom land; so + that one seemed always to be travelling at an elevation. Nevertheless + walking or riding we were continually splashing, and the only dry going + outside the occasional rare “islands” of the slight undulations we found + near the very edge of the bluffs above the rivers. There the drainage + seemed sufficient to carry off the excess. Elsewhere the hardpan or + bedrock must have been exceptionally level and near the top of the ground. + </p> + <p> + Nothing nor nobody seemed to mind this much. The game splashed around + merrily, cropping at the tall grass; the natives slopped indifferently, + and we ourselves soon became so accustomed to two or three inches of water + and wet feet that after the first two days we never gave those phenomena a + thought. + </p> + <p> + The world above at this season of the year was magnificent. The African + heavens are always widely spacious, but now they seemed to have blown even + vaster than usual. In the sweep of the vision four or five heavy black + rainstorms would be trailing their skirts across an infinitely remote + prospect; between them white piled scud clouds and cumuli sailed like + ships; and from them reflected so brilliant a sunlight and behind all + showed so dazzling a blue sky that the general impression was of a fine + day. The rainstorms' gray veils slanted; tremendous patches of shadow lay + becalmed on the plains; bright sunshine poured abundantly its warmth and + yellow light. + </p> + <p> + So brilliant with both direct and reflected light and the values of + contrast were the heavens, that when one happened to stand within one of + the great shadows it became extraordinarily difficult to make out game on + the plains. The pupils contracted to the brilliancy overhead. Often too, + near sunset, the atmosphere would become suffused with a lurid saffron + light that made everything unreal and ghastly. At such times the game + seemed puzzled by the unusual aspect of things. The zebra especially would + bark and stamp and stand their ground, and even come nearer out of sheer + curiosity. I have thus been within fifty yards of them, right out in the + open. At such times it was as though the sky, instead of rounding over in + the usual shape, had been thrust up at the western horizon to the same + incredible height as the zenith. In the space thus created were piled + great clouds through which slanted broad bands of yellow light on a + diminished world. + </p> + <p> + It rained with great suddenness on our devoted heads, and with a curious + effect of metamorphoslng the entire universe. One moment all was clear and + smiling, with the trifling exception of distant rain squalls that amounted + to nothing in the general scheme. Then the horizon turned black, and with + incredible swiftness the dark clouds materialized out of nothing, rolled + high to the zenith like a wave, blotted out every last vestige of + brightness. A heavy oppressive still darkness breathed over the earth. + Then through the silence came a faraway soft drumming sound, barely to be + heard. As we bent our ears to catch this it grew louder and louder, + approaching at breakneck speed like a troop of horses. It became a roar + fairly terrifying in its mercilessly continued crescendo. At last the + deluge of rain burst actually as a relief. + </p> + <p> + And what a deluge! Facing it we found difficulty in breathing. In six + seconds every stitch we wore was soaked through, and only the notebook, + tobacco, and matches bestowed craftily in the crown of the cork helmet + escaped. The visible world was dark and contracted. It seemed that nothing + but rain could anywhere exist; as though this storm must fill all space to + the horizon and beyond. Then it swept on and we found ourselves steaming + in bright sunlight. The dry flat prairie (if this was the first shower for + some time) had suddenly become a lake from the surface of which projected + bushes and clumps of grass. Every game trail had become the water course + of a swiftly running brook. + </p> + <p> + But most pleasant were the evenings at Juja, when, safe indoors, we sat + and listened to the charge of the storm's wild horsemen, and the thunder + of its drumming on the tin roof. The onslaughts were as fierce and abrupt + as those of Cossacks, and swept by as suddenly. The roar died away in the + distance, and we could then hear the steady musical dripping of waters. + </p> + <p> + Pleasant it was also to walk out from Juja in almost any direction. The + compound, and the buildings and trees within it, soon dwindled in the + distances of the great flat plain. Herds of game were always in sight, + grazing, lying down, staring in our direction. The animals were incredibly + numerous. Some days they were fairly tame, and others exceedingly wild, + without any rhyme or reason. This shyness or the reverse seemed not to be + individual to one herd; but to be practically universal. On a “wild day” + everything was wild from the Lone Tree to Long Juju. It would be + manifestly absurd to guess at the reason. Possibly the cause might be + atmospheric or electrical; possibly days of nervousness might follow + nights of unusual activity by the lions; one could invent a dozen + possibilities. Perhaps the kongonis decided it. + </p> + <p> + At Juja we got to know the kongonis even better than we had before. They + are comical, quizzical beasts, with long-nosed humorous faces, a + singularly awkward construction, a shambling gait; but with altruistic + dispositions and an ability to get over the ground at an extraordinary + speed. Every move is a joke; their expression is always one of grieved but + humorous astonishment. They quirk their heads sidewise or down and stare + at an intruder with the most comical air of skeptical wonder. “Well, look + who's here!” says the expression. + </p> + <p> + “Pooh!” says the kongoni himself, after a good look, “pooh! pooh!” with + the most insulting inflection. + </p> + <p> + He is very numerous and very alert. One or more of a grazing herd are + always perched as sentinels atop ant hills or similar small elevations. On + the slightest intimation of danger they give the alarm, whereupon the herd + makes off at once, gathering in all other miscellaneous game that may be + in the vicinity. They will go out of their way to do this, as every + African hunter knows. It immensely complicates matters; for the sportsman + must not only stalk his quarry, but he must stalk each and every kongoni + as well. Once, in another part of the country, C. and I saw a kongoni + leave a band of its own species far down to our right, gallop toward us + and across our front, pick up a herd of zebra we were trying to approach + and make off with them to safety. We cursed that kongoni, but we admired + him, for he deliberately ran out of safety into danger for the purpose of + warning those zebra. So seriously do they take their job as policemen of + the plains that it is very common for a lazy single animal of another + species to graze in a herd of kongonis simply for the sake of protection. + Wildebeeste are much given to this. + </p> + <p> + The kongoni progresses by a series of long high bounds. While in midair he + half tucks up his feet, which gives him the appearance of an automatic + toy. This gait looks deliberate, but is really quite fast, as the mounted + sportsman discovers when he enters upon a vain pursuit. If the horse is an + especially good one, so that the kongoni feels himself a trifle closely + pressed, the latter stops bouncing and runs. Then he simply fades away + into the distance. + </p> + <p> + These beasts are also given to chasing each other all over the landscape. + When a gentleman kongoni conceives a dislike for another gentleman + kongoni, he makes no concealment of his emotions, but marches up and prods + him in the ribs. The ensuing battle is usually fought out very stubbornly + with much feinting, parrying, clashing of the lyre-shaped horns; and a + good deal of crafty circling for a favourable opening. As far as I was + ever able to see not much real damage is inflicted; though I could well + imagine that only skilful fence prevented unpleasant punctures in soft + spots. After a time one or the other feels himself weakening. He dashes + strongly in, wheels while his antagonist is braced, and makes off. The + enemy pursues. Then, apparently, the chase is on for the rest of the day. + The victor is not content merely to drive his rival out of the country; he + wants to catch him. On that object he is very intent; about as intent as + the other fellow is of getting away. I have seen two such beasts almost + run over a dozen men who were making no effort to keep out of sight. Long + after honour is satisfied, indeed, as it seems to me, long after the + dictates of common decency would call a halt that persistent and + single-minded pursuer bounds solemnly and conscientiously along in the + wake of his disgusted rival. + </p> + <p> + These and the zebra and wildebeeste were at Juja the most conspicuous game + animals. If they could not for the moment be seen from the veranda of the + house itself, a short walk to the gate was sufficient to reveal many + hundreds. Among them fed herds of the smaller Thompson's gazelle, or + “Tommies.” So small were they that only their heads could be seen above + the tall grass as they ran. + </p> + <p> + To me there was never-ending fascination in walking out over those sloppy + plains in search of adventure, and in the pleasure of watching the beasts. + Scarcely less fascination haunted a stroll down the river canyons or along + the tops of the bluffs above them. Here the country was broken into rocky + escarpments in which were caves; was clothed with low and scattered brush; + or was wooded in the bottom lands. Naturally an entirely different set of + animals dwelt here; and in addition one was often treated to the romance + of surprise. Herds of impalla haunted these edges; graceful creatures, + trim and pretty with wide horns and beautiful glowing red coats. Sometimes + they would venture out on the open plains, in a very compact band, ready + to break back for cover at the slightest alarm; but generally fed inside + the fringe of bushes. Once from the bluff above I saw a beautiful herd of + over a hundred pacing decorously along the river bottom below me, single + file, the oldest buck at the head, and the miscellaneous small buck + bringing up the rear after the does. I shouted at them. Immediately the + solemn procession broke. They began to leap, springing straight up into + the air as though from a released spring, or diving forward and upward in + long graceful bounds like dolphins at sea. These leaps were incredible. + Several even jumped quite over the backs of others; and all without a + semblance of effort. + </p> + <p> + Along the fringe of the river, too, dwelt the lordly waterbuck, + magnificent and proud as the stags of Landseer; and the tiny steinbuck and + duiker, no bigger than jack-rabbits, but perfect little deer for all that. + The incredibly plebeian wart-hog rooted about; and down in the bottom + lands were leopards. I knocked one off a rock one day. In the river itself + dwelt hippopotamuses and crocodiles. One of the latter dragged under a + yearling calf just below the house itself, and while we were there. + Besides these were of course such affairs as hyenas and jackals, and great + numbers of small game: hares, ducks, three kinds of grouse, guinea fowl, + pigeons, quail, and jack snipe, not to speak of a variety of plover. + </p> + <p> + In the drier extents of dry grass atop the bluffs the dance birds were + especially numerous; each with his dance ring nicely trodden out, each + leaping and falling rhythmically for hours at a time. Toward sunset great + flights of sand grouse swarmed across the yellowing sky from some distant + feeding ground. + </p> + <p> + Near Juja I had one of the three experiences that especially impressed on + my mind the abundance of African big game. I had stalked and wounded a + wildebeeste across the N'derogo River, and had followed him a mile or so + afoot, hoping to be able to put in a finishing shot. As sometimes happens + the animal rather gained strength as time went on; so I signalled for my + horse, mounted, and started out to run him down. After a quarter mile we + began to pick up the game herds. Those directly in our course ran straight + away; other herds on either side, seeing them running, came across in a + slant to join them. Inside of a half mile I was driving before me + literally thousands of head of game of several varieties. The dust rose in + a choking cloud that fairly obscured the landscape, and the drumming of + the hooves was like the stampeding of cattle. It was a wonderful sight. + </p> + <p> + On the plains of Juja, also, I had my one real African Adventure, when, as + in the Sunday Supplements, I Stared Death in the Face-also everlasting + disgrace and much derision. We were just returning to the farm after an + afternoon's walk, and as we approached I began to look around for much + needed meat. A herd of zebra stood in sight; so leaving Memba Sasa I began + to stalk them. My usual weapon for this sort of thing was the Springfield, + for which I carried extra cartridges in my belt. On this occasion, + however, I traded with Memba Sasa for the 405, simply for the purpose of + trying it out. At a few paces over three hundred yards I landed on the + zebra, but did not knock him down. Then I set out to follow. It was a long + job and took me far, for again and again he joined other zebra, when, of + course, I could not tell one from t'other. My only expedient was to + frighten the lot. There upon the uninjured ones would distance the one + that was hurt. The latter kept his eye on me. Whenever I managed to get + within reasonable distance, I put up the rear sight of the 405, and let + drive. I heard every shot hit, and after each hit was more than a little + astonished to see the zebra still on his feet, and still able to wobble + on.* The fifth shot emptied the rifle. As I had no more cartridges for + this arm, I approached to within sixty yards, and stopped to wait either + for him to fall, or for a very distant Memba Sasa to come up with more + cartridges. Then the zebra waked up. He put his ears back and came + straight in my direction. This rush I took for a blind death flurry, and + so dodged off to one side, thinking that he would of course go by me. Not + at all! He swung around on the circle too, and made after me. I could see + that his ears were back, eyes blazing, and his teeth snapping with rage. + It was a malicious charge, and, as such, with due deliberation, I offer it + to sportsman's annals. As I had no more cartridges I ran away as fast as I + could go. Although I made rather better time than ever I had attained to + before, it was evident that the zebra would catch me; and as the brute + could paw, bite, and kick, I did not much care for the situation. Just as + he had nearly reached me, and as I was trying to figure on what kind of a + fight I could put up with a clubbed rifle barrel, he fell dead. To be + killed by a lion is at least a dignified death; but to be mauled by a + zebra! + </p> + <p> + I am sorry I did not try out this heavy-calibred rifle oftener at long + range. It was a marvellously effective weapon at close quarters; but I + have an idea-but only a tentative idea-that above three hundred yards its + velocity is so reduced by air resistance against the big blunt bullet as + greatly to impair its hitting powers. + </p> + <p> + We generally got back from our walks or rides just before dark to find the + house gleaming with lights, a hot bath ready, and a tray of good wet + drinks next the easy chairs. There, after changing our clothes, we sipped + and read the papers-two months off the press, but fresh arrived for all + that-until a white-robed, dignified figure appeared in the doorway to + inform us that dinner was ready. Our ways were civilized and soft, then, + until the morrow when once again, perhaps, we went forth into the African + wilderness. + </p> + <p> + Juja is a place of startling contrasts-of naked savages clipping formal + hedges, of windows opening from a perfectly appointed brilliantly lighted + dining-room to a night whence float the lost wails of hyenas or the deep + grumbling of lions, of cushioned luxurious chairs in reach of many books, + but looking out on hills where the game herds feed, of comfortable beds + with fine linen and soft blankets where one lies listening to the voices + of an African night, or the weirder minor house noises whose origin and + nature no man could guess, of tennis courts and summer houses, of lawns + and hammocks, of sundials and clipped hedges separated only by a few + strands of woven wire from fields identical with those in which roamed the + cave men of the Pleistocene. But to Billy was reserved the most ridiculous + contrast of all. Her bedroom opened to a veranda a few feet above a formal + garden. This was a very formal garden, with a sundial, gravelled walks, + bordered flower beds, and clipped border hedges. One night she heard a + noise outside. Slipping on a warm wrap and seizing her trusty revolver she + stole out on the veranda to investigate. She looked over the veranda rail. + There just below her, trampling the flower beds, tracking the gravel + walks, endangering the sundial, stood a hippopotamus! + </p> + <p> + We had neighbours six or seven miles away. At times they came down to + spend the night and luxuriate in the comforts of civilization. They were a + Lady A., and her nephew, and a young Scotch acquaintance the nephew had + taken into partnership. They had built themselves circular houses of + papyrus reeds with conical thatched roofs and earth floors, had purchased + ox teams and gathered a dozen or so Kikuyus, and were engaged in breaking + a farm in the wilderness. The life was rough and hard, and Lady A. and her + nephew gently bred, but they seemed to be having quite cheerfully the time + of their lives. The game furnished them meat, as it did all of us, and + they hoped in time that their labours would make the land valuable and + productive. Fascinating as was the life, it was also one of many + deprivations. At Juja were a number of old copies of Life, the pretty + girls in which so fascinated the young men that we broke the laws of + propriety by presenting them, though they did not belong to us. C., the + nephew, was of the finest type of young Englishman, clean cut, + enthusiastic, good looking, with an air of engaging vitality and optimism. + His partner, of his own age, was an insufferable youth. Brought up in some + small Scottish valley, his outlook had never widened. Because he wanted to + buy four oxen at a cheaper price, he tried desperately to abrogate + quarantine regulations. If he had succeeded, he would have made a few + rupees, but would have introduced disease in his neighbours' herds. This + consideration did not affect him. He was much given to sneering at what he + could not understand; and therefore, a great deal met with his + disapproval. His reading had evidently brought him down only to about the + middle sixties; and affairs at that date were to him still burning + questions. Thus he would declaim vehemently over the Alabama claims. + </p> + <p> + “I blush with shame,” he would cry, “when I think of England's attitude in + that matter.” + </p> + <p> + We pointed out that the dispute had been amicably settled by the best + minds of the time, had passed between the covers of history, and had given + way in immediate importance to several later topics. + </p> + <p> + “This vacillating policy,” he swept on, “annoys me. For my part, I should + like to see so firm a stand taken on all questions that in any part of the + world, whenever a man, and wherever a man, said 'I am an Englishman? + everybody else would draw back!'” + </p> + <p> + He was an incredible person. However, I was glad to see him; he and a few + others of his kind have consoled me for a number of Americans I have met + abroad. Lady A., with the tolerant philosophy of her class, seemed merely + amused. I have often since wondered how this ill-assorted partnership + turned out. + </p> + <p> + Two other neighbours of ours dropped in once or twice-twenty-six miles on + bicycles, on which they could ride only a portion of the distance. They + had some sort of a ranch up in the Ithanga Hills; and were two of the + nicest fellows one would want to meet, brimful of energy, game for + anything, and had so good a time always that the grumpiest fever could not + prevent every one else having a good time too. Once they rode on their + bicycles forty miles to Nairobi, danced half the night at a Government + House ball, rode back in the early morning, and did an afternoon's + plowing! They explained this feat by pointing out most convincingly that + the ground was just right for plowing, but they did not want to miss the + ball! + </p> + <p> + Occasionally a trim and dapper police official would drift in on horseback + looking for native criminals; and once a safari came by. Twelve miles away + was the famous Kamiti Farm of Heatly, where Roosevelt killed his buffalo; + and once or twice Heatly himself, a fine chap, came to see us. Also just + before I left with Duirs for a lion hunt on Kapiti, Lady Girouard, wife of + the Governor, and her nephew and niece rode out for a hunt. In the African + fashion, all these people brought their own personal servants. It makes + entertaining easy. Nobody knows where all these boys sleep; but they + manage to tuck away somewhere, and always show up after a mysterious + system of their own whenever there is anything to be done. + </p> + <p> + We stayed at Juja a little over three weeks. Then most reluctantly said + farewell and returned to Nairobi in preparation for a long trip to the + south. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0030" id="link2H_4_0030"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + XXIX. CHAPTER THE LAST + </h2> + <p> + With our return from Juja to Nairobi for a breathing space, this volume + comes to a logical conclusion. In it I have tried to give a fairly + comprehensive impression-it could hardly be a picture of so large a + subject-of a portion of East Equatorial Africa, its animals, and its + people. Those who are sufficiently interested will have an opportunity in + a succeeding volume of wandering with us even farther afield. The low + jungly coast region; the fierce desert of the Serengetti; the swift sullen + rhinoceros-haunted stretches of the Tsavo; Nairobi, the strangest mixture + of the twentieth centuries A.D. and B.C.; Mombasa with its wild, barbaric + passionate ebb and flow of life, of colour, of throbbing sound, the great + lions of the Kapiti Plains, the Thirst of the Loieta, the Masai spearmen, + the long chase for the greater kudu; the wonderful, high unknown country + beyond the Narossara and other affairs will there be detailed. If the + reader of this volume happens to want more, there he will find it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE" id="link2H_APPE"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + APPENDIX I + </h2> + <p> + Most people are very much interested in how hot it gets in such tropics as + we traversed. Unfortunately it is very difficult to tell them. Temperature + tables have very little to do with the matter, for humidity varies + greatly. On the Serengetti at lower reaches of the Guaso Nyero I have seen + it above 110 degrees. It was hot, to be sure, but not exhaustingly so. On + the other hand, at 90 or 95 degrees the low coast belt I have had the + sweat run from me literally in streams; so that a muddy spot formed + wherever I stood still. In the highlands, moreover, the nights were often + extremely cold. I have recorded night temperatures as low as 40 at 7000 + feet of elevation; and noon temperatures as low 65. + </p> + <p> + Of more importance than the actual or sensible temperature of the air is + the power of the sun's rays. At all times of year this is practically + constant; for the orb merely swings a few degrees north and south of the + equator, and the extreme difference in time between its risings or + settings is not more than twenty minutes. This power is also practically + constant whatever the temperature of the air and is dangerous even on a + cloudy day, when the heat waves are effectually screened off, but when the + actinic rays are as active as ever. For this reason the protection of + helmet and spine pad should never be omitted, no matter what the condition + of the weather, between nine o'clock and four. A very brief exposure is + likely to prove fatal. It should be added that some people stand these + actinic rays better than others. + </p> + <p> + Such being the case, mere temperature tables could have little interest to + the general reader. I append a few statistics, selected from many, and + illustrative of the different conditions. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Locality. Elevation 6am noon 8pm Apparent conditions + Coast —- 80 90 76 Very hot and sticky + Isiola River 2900 65 94 84 Hot but not exhausting + Tans River 3350 68 98 79 Hot but not exhausting + Near Meru 5450 62 80 70 Very pleasant + Serengetti Plains 2200 78 106 86 Hot and humid + Narossara River 5450 54 89 69 Very pleasant + Narossara Mts. 7400 42 80 50 Chilly + Narossara Mts. 6450 40 62 52 Cold +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE2" id="link2H_APPE2"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + APPENDIX II + </h2> + <h3> + GAME ANIMALS COLLECTED + </h3> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Lion Bush pig Grant's gazelle + Serval cat Baboon Thompson's gazelle + Cheetah Colobus Gerenuk gazelle + Black-backed jackal Hippopotamus Coke's hartebeests + Silver jackal Rhinoceros Jackson's hartebeests + Striped hyena Crocodile Neuman's hartebeests + Spotted hyena Python Chandler's reedbuck + Fennec fox Ward's zebra Bohur reedbuck + Honey badger Grevy's zebra Beisa ox + Aardewolf Notata gazelle Fringe-eared oryx + Wart-hog Roberts' gazelle Duiker + Waterbuck Klipspringer Harvey's duiker + Sing-sing Dik-dik Greater kudu + Oribi (3 varieties) Wildebeeste Lesser kudu + Eland Roosevelt's wildebeests Sable antelope + Roan antelope Buffalo + Bushbuck Topi + + Total, fifty-four kinds +</pre> + <p> + GAME BIRDS COLLECTED + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Marabout Gadwall Lesser bustard + Egret European stork Guinea fowl + Glossy ibis Quail Giant guinea fowl + Egyptian goose Sand grouse Green pigeon + White goose Francolin Blue pigeon + English snipe Spur fowl Dove (2 species) + Mallard duck Greater bustard + + Total, twenty-two kinds +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE3" id="link2H_APPE3"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + APPENDIX III + </h2> + <p> + For the benefit of the sportsman and gun crank who want plain facts and no + flapdoodle, the following statistics are offered. To the lay reader this + inclusion will be incomprehensible; but I know my gun crank as I am one + myself! + </p> + <p> + Army Springfield, model 1903 to take the 1906 cartridge, shooting the + Spitzer sharp point bullet. Stocked to suit me by Ludwig Wundhammer, and + fitted with Sheard gold bead front sight and Lyman aperture receiver + sight. With this I did most my shooting, as the trajectory was remarkably + good, and the killing power remarkable. Tried out both the old-fashioned + soft point bullets and the sharp Spitzer bullets, but find the latter far + the more effective. In fact the paralyzing shock given by the Spitzer is + almost beyond belief. African animals are notably tenacious of life; but + the Springfield dropped nearly half the animals dead with one shot; a most + unusual record, as every sportsman will recognize. The bullets seemed on + impact always to flatten slightly at the base, the point remaining + intact-to spin widely on the axis, and to plunge off at an angle. This + action of course depended on the high velocity. The requisite velocity, + however seemed to keep up within all shooting ranges. A kongoni I killed + at 638 paces (measured), and another at 566 paces both exhibited this + action of the bullet. I mention these ranges because I have seen the + statement in print that the remaining velocity beyond 350 yards would not + be sufficient in this arm to prevent the bullet passing through cleanly. I + should also hasten to add that I do not habitually shoot at game at the + above ranges; but did so in these two instances for the precise purpose of + testing the arm. Metal fouling did not bother me at all, though I had been + led to expect trouble from it. The weapon was always cleaned with water so + boiling hot that the heat of the barrel dried it. When occasionally flakes + of metal fouling became visible a Marble brush always sufficed to remove + enough of it. It was my habit to smear the bullets with mobilubricant + before placing them in the magazine. This was not as much of a nuisance as + it sounds. A small tin box about the size of a pill box lasted me the + whole trip; and only once did I completely empty the magazine at one time. + On my return I tested the rifle very thoroughly for accuracy. In spite of + careful cleaning the barrel was in several places slightly corroded. For + this the climate was responsible. The few small pittings, however, did not + seem in any way to have affected the accuracy, as the rifle shot the + following groups: 3-1/2 inches at 200 yards; 7-1/4 inches at 300 yards; + and 11-1/2 inches at 500 yards.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * It shot one five-shot 1-2/3 inch group at 200 yds., and + several others at all distances less than the figures given, + but I am convinced these must have been largely accidental. +</pre> + <p> + These groups were not made from a machine rest, however; as none was + available. The complete record with this arm for my whole stay in Africa + was 307 hits out of 395 cartridges fired, representing 185 head of game + killed. Most of this shooting was for meat and represented also all sorts + of “varmints” as well. + </p> + <p> + The 405 Winchester. This weapon was sighted like the Springfield, and was + constantly in the field as my second gun. For lions it could not be + beaten; as it was very accurate, delivered a hard blow, and held five + cartridges. Beyond 125 to 150 yards one had to begin to guess at distance, + so for ordinary shooting I preferred the Springfield. In thick brush + country, however, where one was likely to come suddenly on rhinoceroes, + but where one wanted to be ready always for desirable smaller game, the + Winchester was just the thing. It was short, handy, and reliable. One + experience with a zebra 300-350 yards has made me question whether at long + (hunting) ranges the remaining velocity of the big blunt nosed bullet is + not seriously reduced; but as to that I have not enough data for a final + conclusion. I have no doubt, however, that at such ranges, and beyond, the + little Springfield has more shocking power. Of course at closer ranges the + Winchester is by far the more powerful. I killed one rhinoceros with the + 405, one buffalo and one hippo; but should consider it too light for an + emergency gun against the larger dangerous animals, such as buffalo and + rhinoceros. If one has time for extreme accuracy, and can pick the shot, + it is plenty big; but I refer now to close quarters in a hurry. I had no + trouble whatever with the mechanism of this arm; nor have I ever had + trouble with any of the lever actions, although I have used them for many + years. As regards speed of fire the controversy between the lever and bolt + action advocates seems to me foolish in the extreme. Either action can be + fired faster than it should be fired in the presence of game. It is my + belief that any man, no matter how practised or how cool, can stampede + himself beyond his best accuracy by pumping out his shots too rapidly. + This is especially true in the face of charging dangerous game. So firmly + do I believe this that I generally take the rifle from my shoulder between + each shot. Even aimed rapid fire is of no great value as compared with + better aimed slower fire. The first bullet delivers to an animal's nervous + system about all the shock it can absorb. If the beast is not thereby + knocked down and held down, subsequent shots can accomplish that desirable + result only by reaching a vital spot or by tearing tissue. As an example + of this I might instance a waterbuck into which I saw my companion empty + five heavy 465 and double 500 bullets from cordite rifles before it fell! + Thus if the game gets to its feet after the first shock, it is true that + the hunter will often empty into it six or seven more bullets without + apparent result, unless he aims carefully for a centrally vital point. It + follows that therefore a second shot aimed with enough care to land it in + that point is worth a lot more than a half dozen delivered in three or + four seconds with only the accuracy necessary to group decently at very + short range, even if all of them hit the beast. I am perfectly aware that + this view will probably be disputed; but it is the result of considerable + experience, close observation and real interest in the game. The whole + record of the Winchester was 56 hits out of 70 cartridges fired; + representing 27 head of game. + </p> + <p> + The 465 Holland & Holland double cordite rifle. This beautiful weapon, + built and balanced like a fine hammerless shotgun, was fitted with open + sights. It was of course essentially a close range emergency gun, but was + capable of accurate work at a distance. I killed one buffalo dead with it, + across a wide canyon, with the 300-yard leaf up on the back sight. Its + game list however was limited to rhinoceroses, hippopotamuses, buffaloes + and crocodiles. The recoil in spite of its weight of twelve and one half + pounds, was tremendous; but unnoticeable when I was shooting at any of + these brutes. Its total record was 31 cartridges fired with 29 hits + representing 13 head of game. + </p> + <p> + The conditions militating against marksmanship are often severe. Hard work + in the tropics is not the most steadying regime in the world, and outside + a man's nerves, he is often bothered by queer lights, and the effects of + the mirage that swirls from the sun-heated plain. The ranges, too, are + rather long. I took the trouble to pace out about every kill, and find + that antelope in the plains averaged 245 yards; with a maximum of 638 + yards, while antelope in covered country averaged 148 yards, with a + maximum of 311. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE4" id="link2H_APPE4"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + APPENDIX IV. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA + </h2> + <h3> + IN WHICH HE APPEARS AS DIFFERENT FROM THE ENGLISHMAN + </h3> + <p> + It is always interesting to play the other fellow's game his way, and + then, in light of experience, to see wherein our way and his way modify + each other. + </p> + <p> + The above proposition here refers to camping. We do considerable of it in + our country, especially in our North and West. After we have been at it + for some time, we evolve a method of our own. The basis of that method is + to do without; to GO LIGHT. At first even the best of us will carry too + much plunder, but ten years of philosophy and rainstorms, trails and + trials, will bring us to an irreducible minimum. A party of three will get + along with two pack horses, say; or, on a harder trip, each will carry the + necessities on his own back. To take just as little as is consistent with + comfort is to play the game skilfully. Any article must pay in use for its + transportation. + </p> + <p> + With this ideal deeply ingrained by the test of experience, the American + camper is appalled by the caravan his British cousins consider necessary + for a trip into the African back country. His said cousin has, perhaps, + very kindly offered to have his outfit ready for him when he arrives. He + does arrive to find from one hundred to one hundred and fifty men gathered + as his personal attendants. + </p> + <p> + “Great Scot!” he cries, “I want to go camping; I don't want to invade + anybody's territory. Why the army?” + </p> + <p> + He discovers that these are porters, to carry his effects. + </p> + <p> + “What effects?” he demands, bewildered. As far as he knows, he has two + guns, some ammunition, and a black tin box, bought in London, and + half-filled with extra clothes, a few medicines, a thermometer, and some + little personal knick-knacks. He has been wondering what else he is going + to put in to keep things from rattling about. Of course he expected + besides these to take along a little plain grub, and some blankets, and a + frying pan and kettle or so. + </p> + <p> + The English friend has known several Americans, so he explains patiently. + </p> + <p> + “I know this seems foolish to you,” he says, “but you must remember you + are under the equator and you must do things differently here. As long as + you keep fit you are safe; but if you get run down a bit you'll go. You've + got to do yourself well, down here, rather better than you have to in any + other climate. You need all the comfort you can get; and you want to save + yourself all you can.” + </p> + <p> + This has a reasonable sound and the American does not yet know the game. + Recovering from his first shock, he begins to look things over. There is a + double tent, folding camp chair, folding easy chair, folding table, wash + basin, bath tub, cot, mosquito curtains, clothes hangers; there are oil + lanterns, oil carriers, two loads of mysterious cooking utensils and cook + camp stuff; there is an open fly, which his friend explains is his dining + tent; and there are from a dozen to twenty boxes standing in a row, each + with its padlock. “I didn't go in for luxury,” apologizes the English + friend. “Of course we can easily add anything you want but I remember you + wrote me that you wanted to travel light.” + </p> + <p> + “What are those?” our American inquires, pointing to the locked boxes. + </p> + <p> + He learns that they are chop boxes, containing food and supplies. At this + he rises on his hind legs and paws the air. + </p> + <p> + “Food!” he shrieks. “Why, man alive, I'm alone, and I am only going to be + out three months! I can carry all I'll ever eat in three months in one of + those boxes.” + </p> + <p> + But the Englishman patiently explains. You cannot live on “bacon and + beans” in this country, so to speak. You must do yourself rather well, you + know, to keep in condition. And you cannot pack food in bags, it must be + tinned. And then, of course, such things as your sparklet siphons and lime + juice require careful packing-and your champagne. + </p> + <p> + “Champagne,” breathes the American in awestricken tones. + </p> + <p> + “Exactly, dear boy, an absolute necessity. After a touch of sun there's + nothing picks you up better than a mouthful of fizz. It's used as a + medicine, not a drink, you understand.” + </p> + <p> + The American reflects again that this is the other fellow's game, and that + the other fellow has been playing it for some time, and that he ought to + know. But he cannot yet see why the one hundred and fifty men. Again the + Englishman explains. There is the Headman to run the show. Correct: we + need him. Then there are four askaris. What are they? Native soldiers. No, + you won't be fighting anything; but they keep the men going, and act as + sort of sub-foremen in bossing the complicated work. Next is your cook, + and your own valet and that of your horse. Also your two gunbearers. + </p> + <p> + “Hold on!” cries our friend. “I have only two guns, and I'm going to carry + one myself.” + </p> + <p> + But this, he learns, is quite impossible. It is never done. It is + absolutely necessary, in this climate, to avoid all work. + </p> + <p> + That makes how many? Ten already, and there seem to be three tent loads, + one bed load, one chair and table load, one lantern load, two + miscellaneous loads, two cook loads, one personal box, and fifteen chop + boxes-total twenty-six, plus the staff, as above, thirty-six. Why all the + rest of the army? + </p> + <p> + Very simple: these thirty-six men have, according to regulation, seven + tents, and certain personal effects, and they must have “potio” or a + ration of one and a half pounds per diem. These things must be carried by + more men. + </p> + <p> + “I see,” murmurs the American, crushed, “and these more men have more + tents and more potio, which must also be carried. It's like the House that + Jack Built.” + </p> + <p> + So our American concludes still once again that the other fellow knows his + own game, and starts out. He learns he has what is called a “modest + safari”; and spares a fleeting wonder as to what a really elaborate safari + must be. The procession takes the field. He soon sees the value of the + four askaris-the necessity of whom he has secretly doubted. Without their + vigorous seconding the headman would have a hard time indeed. Also, when + he observes the labour of tent-making, packing, washing, and general + service performed by his tent boy, he abandons the notion that that + individual could just as well take care of the horse as well, especially + as the horse has to have all his grass cut and brought to him. At evening + our friend has a hot bath, a long cool fizzly drink of lime juice and + soda; he puts on the clean clothes laid out for him, assumes soft mosquito + boots, and sits down to dinner. This is served to him in courses, and on + enamel ware. Each course has its proper-sized plate and cutlery. He starts + with soup, goes down through tinned whitebait or other fish, an entree, a + roast, perhaps a curry, a sweet, and small coffee. He is certainly being + “done well,” and he enjoys the comfort of it. + </p> + <p> + There comes a time when he begins to wonder a little. It is all very + pleasant, of course, and perhaps very necessary; they all tell him it is. + But, after all, it is a little galling to the average man to think that of + him. Your Englishman doesn't mind that; he enjoys being taken care of: but + the sportsman of American training likes to stand on his own feet as far + as he is able and conditions permit. Besides, it is expensive. Besides + that, it is a confounded nuisance, especially when potio gives out and + more must be sought, near or far. Then, if he is wise, he begins to do a + little figuring on his own account. + </p> + <p> + My experience was very much as above. Three of us went out for eleven + weeks with what was considered a very “modest” safari indeed. It comprised + one hundred and eighteen men. My fifth and last trip, also with two + companions, was for three months. Our personnel consisted, all told, forty + men. + </p> + <p> + In essentials the Englishman is absolutely right. One cannot camp in + Africa as one would at home. The experimenter would be dead in a month. In + his application of that principle, however, he seems to the American point + of view to overshoot. Let us examine his proposition in terms of the + essentials-food, clothing, shelter. There is no doubt but that a man must + keep in top condition as far as possible; and that, to do so, he must have + plenty of good food. He can never do as we do on very hard trips at home: + take a little tea, sugar, coffee, flour, salt, oatmeal. But on the other + hand, he certainly does not need a five-course dinner every night, nor a + complete battery of cutlery, napery and table ware to eat it from. Flour, + sugar, oatmeal, tea and coffee, rice, beans, onions, curry, dried fruits, + a little bacon, and some dehydrated vegetables will do him very well + indeed-with what he can shoot. These will pack in waterproof bags very + comfortably. In addition to feeding himself well, he finds he must not + sleep next to the ground, he must have a hot bath every day, but never a + cold one, and he must shelter himself with a double tent against the sun. + </p> + <p> + Those are the absolute necessities of the climate. In other words, if he + carries a double tent, a cot, a folding bath; and gives a little attention + to a properly balanced food supply, he has met the situation. + </p> + <p> + If, in addition, he takes canned goods, soda siphons, lime juice, easy + chairs and all the rest of the paraphernalia, he is merely using a basic + principle as an excuse to include sheer luxuries. In further extenuation + of this he is apt to argue that porters are cheap, and that it costs but + little more to carry these extra comforts. Against this argument, of + course, I have nothing to say. It is the inalienable right of every man to + carry all the luxuries he wants. My point is that the average American + sportsman does not want them, and only takes them because he is + overpersuaded that these things are not luxuries, but necessities. For, + mark you, he could take the same things into the Sierras or the North-by + paying; but he doesn't. + </p> + <p> + I repeat, it is the inalienable right of any man to travel as luxuriously + as he pleases. But by the same token it is not his right to pretend that + luxuries are necessities. That is to put himself into the same category + with the man who always finds some other excuse for taking a drink than + the simple one that he wants it. + </p> + <p> + The Englishman's point of view is that he objects to “pigging it,” as he + says. “Pigging it” means changing your home habits in any way. If you have + been accustomed to eating your sardines after a meal, and somebody offers + them to you first, that is “pigging it.” In other words, as nearly as I + can make out, “pigging it” does not so much mean doing things in an + inadequate fashion as DOING THEM DIFFERENTLY. Therefore, the Englishman in + the field likes to approximate as closely as may be his life in town, even + if it takes one hundred and fifty men to do it. Which reduces the “pigging + it” argument to an attempt at condemnation by calling names. + </p> + <p> + The American temperament, on the contrary, being more experimental and + independent, prefers to build anew upon its essentials. Where the + Englishman covers the situation blanket-wise with his old institutions, + the American prefers to construct new institutions on the necessities of + the case. He objects strongly to being taken care of too completely. He + objects strongly to losing the keen enjoyment of overcoming difficulties + and enduring hardships. The Englishman by habit and training has no such + objections. He likes to be taken care of, financially, personally, and + everlastingly. That is his ideal of life. If he can be taken care of + better by employing three hundred porters and packing eight tin trunks of + personal effects-as I have seen it done-he will so employ and take. That + is all right: he likes it. + </p> + <p> + But the American does not like it. A good deal of the fun for him is in + going light, in matching himself against his environment. It is no fun to + him to carry his complete little civilization along with him, laboriously. + If he must have cotton wool, let it be as little cotton wool as possible. + He likes to be comfortable; but he likes to be comfortable with the + minimum of means. Striking just the proper balance somehow adds to his + interest in the game. And how he DOES object to that ever-recurring + thought-that he is such a helpless mollusc that it requires a small + regiment to get him safely around the country! + </p> + <p> + Both means are perfectly legitimate, of course; and neither view is open + to criticism. All either man is justified in saying is that he, + personally, wouldn't get much fun out of doing it the other way. As a + matter of fact, human nature generally goes beyond its justifications and + is prone to criticise. The Englishman waxes a trifle caustic on the + subject of “pigging it”; and the American indulges in more than a bit of + sarcasm on the subject of “being led about Africa like a dog on a string.” + </p> + <p> + By some such roundabout mental process as the above the American comes to + the conclusion that he need not necessarily adopt the other fellow's + method of playing this game. His own method needs modification, but it + will do. He ventures to leave out the tables and easy chair, takes a camp + stool and eats off a chop box. To the best of his belief his health does + not suffer from this. He gets on with a camper's allowance of plate, cup + and cutlery, and so cuts out a load and a half of assorted kitchen + utensils and table ware. He even does without a tablecloth and napkins! He + discards the lime juice and siphons, and purchases a canvas evaporation + bag to cool the water. He fires one gunbearer, and undertakes the + formidable physical feat of carrying one of his rifles himself. And, above + all, he modifies that grub list. The purchase of waterproof bags gets rid + of a lot of tin: the staple groceries do quite as well as London fancy + stuff. Golden syrup takes the place of all the miscellaneous jams, + marmalades and other sweets. The canned goods go by the board. He lays in + a stock of dried fruit. At the end, he is possessed of a grub list but + little different from that of his Rocky Mountain trips. Some few items he + has cut down; and some he has substituted; but bulk and weight are the + same. For his three months' trip he has four or five chop boxes all told. + </p> + <p> + And then suddenly he finds that thus he has made a reduction all along the + line. Tent load, two men; grub and kitchen, five men; personal, one man; + bed, one man; miscellaneous, one or two. There is now no need for headmen + and askaris to handle this little lot. Twenty more to carry food for the + men-he is off with a quarter of the number of his first “modest safari.” + </p> + <p> + You who are sportsmen and are not going to Africa, as is the case with + most, will perhaps read this, because we are always interested in how the + other fellow does it. To the few who are intending an exploration of the + dark continent this concentration of a year's experience may be valuable. + Remember to sleep off the ground, not to starve yourself, to protect + yourself from the sun, to let negroes do all hard work but marching and + hunting. Do these things your own way, using your common-sense on how to + get at it. You'll be all right. + </p> + <p> + That, I conceive, covers the case. The remainder of your equipment has to + do with camp affairs, and merely needs listing. The question here is not + of the sort to get, but of what to take. The tents, cooking affairs, etc., + are well adapted to the country. In selecting your tent, however, you will + do very well to pick out one whose veranda fly reaches fairly to the + ground, instead of stopping halfway. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 1 tent and ground sheet + 1 folding cot and cork mattress, + 1 pillow, 3 single blankets + 1 combined folding bath and ashstand (“X” brand) + 1 camp stool + 3 folding candle lanterns + 1 gallon turpentine + 3 lbs. alum + 1 river rope + Sail needles and twine + 3 pangas (native tools for chopping and digging) + Cook outfit (select these yourself, and cut out the extras) + 2 axes (small) + Plenty laundry soap + Evaporation bag + 2 pails + 10 yards cotton cloth (“Mericani”) +</pre> + <p> + These things, your food, your porters' outfits and what trade goods you + may need are quite sufficient. You will have all you want, and not too + much. If you take care of yourself, you ought to keep in good health. Your + small outfit permits greater mobility than does that of the English + cousin, infinitely less nuisance and expense. Furthermore, you feel that + once more you are “next to things,” instead of “being led about Africa + like a dog on a string.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE5" id="link2H_APPE5"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + APPENDIX V. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA + </h2> + <h3> + WHAT HE SHOULD TAKE + </h3> + <p> + Before going to Africa I read as many books as I could get hold of on the + subject, some of them by Americans. In every case the authors have given a + chapter detailing the necessary outfit. Invariably they have followed the + Englishman's ideas almost absolutely. Nobody has ventured to modify those + ideas in any essential manner. Some have deprecatingly ventured to remark + that it is as well to leave out the tinned carfare-if you do not like + carfare; but that is as far as they care to go. The lists are those of the + firms who make a business of equipping caravans. The heads of such firms + are generally old African travellers. They furnish the equipment their + customers demand; and as English sportsmen generally all demand the same + thing, the firms end by issuing a printed list of essentials for shooting + parties in Africa, including carfare. Travellers follow the lists blindly, + and later copy them verbatim into their books. Not one has thought to + empty out the whole bag of tricks, to examine them in the light of reason, + and to pick out what a man of American habits, as contrasted to one of + English habits, would like to have. This cannot be done a priori; it + requires the test of experience to determine how to meet, in our own way, + the unusual demands of climate and conditions. + </p> + <p> + And please note, when the heads of these equipment firms, these old + African travellers, take the field for themselves, they pay no attention + whatever to their own printed lists of “essentials.” + </p> + <p> + Now, premising that the English sportsman has, by many years' experience, + worked out just what he likes to take into the field; and assuring you + solemnly that his ideas are not in the least the ideas of American + sportsman, let us see if we cannot do something for ourselves. + </p> + <p> + At present the American has either to take over in toto the English idea, + which is not adapted to him, and is-TO HIM-a nuisance, or to go it blind, + without experience except that acquired in a temperate climate, which is + dangerous. I am not going to copy out the English list again, even for + comparison. I have not the space; and if curious enough, you can find it + in any book on modern African travel. Of course I realize well that few + Americans go to Africa; but I also realize well that the sportsman is a + crank, a wild and eager enthusiast over items of equipment anywhere. + He-and I am thinking emphatically of him-would avidly devour the details + of the proper outfit for the gentle art of hunting the totally extinct + whiffenpoof. + </p> + <p> + Let us begin, first of all, with: + </p> + <p> + Personal Equipment Clothes. On the top of your head you must have a sun + helmet. Get it of cork, not of pith. The latter has a habit of melting + unobtrusively about your ears when it rains. A helmet in brush is the next + noisiest thing to a circus band, so it is always well to have, also, a + double terai. This is not something to eat. It is a wide felt hat, and + then another wide felt hat on top of that. The + vertical-rays-of-the-tropical-sun (pronounced as one word to save time + after you have heard and said it a thousand times) are supposed to get + tangled and lost somewhere between the two hats. It is not, however, a + good contraption to go in all day when the sun is strong. + </p> + <p> + As underwear you want the lightest Jaeger wool. Doesn't sound well for + tropics, but it is an essential. You will sweat enough anyway, even if you + get down to a brass wire costume like the natives. It is when you stop in + the shade, or the breeze, or the dusk of evening, that the trouble comes. + A chill means trouble, SURE. Two extra suits are all you want. There is no + earthly sense in bringing more. Your tent boy washes them out whenever he + can lay hands on them-it is one of his harmless manias. + </p> + <p> + Your shirt should be of the thinnest brown flannel. Leather the shoulders, + and part way down the upper arm, with chamois. This is to protect your + precious garment against the thorns when you dive through them. On the + back you have buttons sewed wherewith to attach a spine pad. Before I went + to Africa I searched eagerly for information or illustration of a spine + pad. I guessed what it must be for, and to an extent what it must be like, + but all writers maintained a conservative reticence as to the thing + itself. Here is the first authorized description. A spine pad is a quilted + affair in consistency like the things you are supposed to lift hot + flat-irons with. On the outside it is brown flannel, like the shirt; on + the inside it is a gaudy orange colour. The latter is not for aesthetic + effect, but to intercept actinic rays. It is eight or ten inches wide, is + shaped to button close up under your collar, and extends halfway down your + back. In addition it is well to wear a silk handkerchief around the neck; + as the spine and back of the head seem to be the most vulnerable to the + sun. + </p> + <p> + For breeches, suit yourself as to material. It will have to be very tough, + and of fast colour. The best cut is the “semi-riding,” loose at the knees, + which should be well faced with soft leather, both for crawling, and to + save the cloth in grass and low brush. One pair ought to last four months, + roughly speaking. You will find a thin pair of ordinary khaki trousers + very comfortable as a change for wear about camp. In passing I would call + your attention to “shorts.” Shorts are loose, bobbed off khaki breeches, + like knee drawers. With them are worn puttees or leather leggings, and low + boots. The knees are bare. They are much affected by young Englishmen. I + observed them carefully at every opportunity, and my private opinion is + that man has rarely managed to invent as idiotically unfitted a + contraption for the purpose in hand. In a country teeming with poisonous + insects, ticks, fever-bearing mosquitoes; in a country where vegetation is + unusually well armed with thorns, spines and hooks, mostly poisonous; in a + country where, oftener than in any other a man is called upon to get down + on his hands and knees and crawl a few assorted abrading miles, it would + seem an obvious necessity to protect one's bare skin as much as possible. + The only reason given for these astonishing garments is that they are + cooler and freer to walk in. That I can believe. But they allow ticks and + other insects to crawl up, mosquitoes to bite, thorns to tear, and + assorted troubles to enter. And I can vouch by experience that ordinary + breeches are not uncomfortably hot or tight. Indeed, one does not get + especially hot in the legs anyway. I noticed that none of the old-time + hunters like Cuninghame or Judd wore shorts. The real reason is not that + they are cool, but that they are picturesque. Common belief to the + contrary, your average practical, matter-of-fact Englishman loves to dress + up. I knew one engaged in farming-picturesque farming-in our own West, who + used to appear at afternoon tea in a clean suit of blue overalls! It is a + harmless amusement. Our own youths do it, also, substituting chaps for + shorts, perhaps. I am not criticising the spirit in them; but merely + trying to keep mistaken shorts off you. + </p> + <p> + For leg gear I found that nothing could beat our American combination of + high-laced boots and heavy knit socks. Leather leggings are noisy, and the + rolled puttees hot and binding. Have your boots ten or twelve inches high, + with a flap to buckle over the tie of the laces, with soles of the + mercury-impregnated leather called “elk hide,” and with small Hungarian + hobs. Your tent boy will grease these every day with “dubbin,” of which + you want a good supply. It is not my intention to offer free + advertisements generally, but I wore one pair of boots all the time I was + in Africa, through wet, heat, and long, long walking. They were in good + condition when I gave them away finally, and had not started a stitch. + They were made by that excellent craftsman, A. A. Cutter, of Eau Claire, + Wis., and he deserves and is entirely welcome to this puff. Needless to + remark, I have received no especial favours from Mr. Cutter. + </p> + <p> + Six pairs of woollen socks, knit by hand, if possible-will be enough. For + evening, when you come in, I know nothing better than a pair of very high + moosehide moccasins. They should, however, be provided with thin soles + against the stray thorn, and should reach well above the ankle by way of + defence against the fever mosquito. That festive insect carries on a + surreptitious guerrilla warfare low down. The English “mosquito boot” is + simply an affair like a riding boot, made of suede leather, with thin + soles. It is most comfortable. My objection is that it is unsubstantial + and goes to pieces in a very brief time even under ordinary evening wear + about camp. + </p> + <p> + You will also want a coat. In American camping I have always maintained + the coat is a useless garment. There one does his own work to a large + extent. When at work or travel the coat is in the way. When in camp the + sweater or buckskin shirt is handier, and more easily carried. In Africa, + however, where the other fellow does most of the work, a coat is often + very handy. Do not make the mistake of getting an unlined light-weight + garment. When you want it at all, you want it warm and substantial. Stick + on all the pockets possible, and have them button securely. + </p> + <p> + For wet weather there is nothing to equal a long and voluminous cape. + Straps crossing the chest and around the waist permit one to throw it off + the shoulders to shoot. It covers the hands, the rifle-most of the little + horses or mules one gets out there. One can sleep in or on it, and it is a + most effective garment against heavy winds. One suit of pajamas is enough, + considering your tent boy's commendable mania for laundry work. Add + handkerchiefs and you are fixed. + </p> + <p> + You will wear most of the above, and put what remains in your “officer's + box.” This is a thin steel, air-tight affair with a wooden bottom, and is + the ticket for African work. + </p> + <p> + Sporting. Pick out your guns to suit yourself. You want a light one and a + heavy one. + </p> + <p> + When I came to send out my ammunition, I was forced again to take the + other fellow's experience. I was told by everybody that I should bring + plenty, that it was better to have too much than too little, etc. I rather + thought so myself, and accordingly shipped a trifle over 1,500 rounds of + small bore cartridges. Unfortunately, I never got into the field with any + of my numerous advisers on this point, so cannot state their methods from + first-hand information. Inductive reasoning leads me to believe that they + consider it unsportsmanlike to shoot at a standing animal at all, or at + one running nearer than 250 yards. Furthermore, it is etiquette to + continue firing until the last cloud of dust has died down on the distant + horizon. Only thus can I conceive of getting rid of that amount of + ammunition. In eight months of steady shooting, for example-shooting for + trophies, as well as to feed a safari of fluctuating numbers, counting + jackals, marabout and such small trash-I got away with 395 rounds of small + bore ammunition and about 100 of large. This accounted for 225 kills. That + should give one an idea. Figure out how many animals you are likely to + want for ANY purpose, multiply by three, and bring that many cartridges. + </p> + <p> + To carry these cartridges I should adopt the English system of a stout + leather belt on which you slip various sized pockets and loops to suit the + occasion. Each unit has loops for ten cartridges. You rarely want more + than that; and if you do, your gunbearer is supplied. In addition to the + loops, you have leather pockets to carry your watch; your money, your + matches and tobacco, your compass-anything you please. They are handy and + safe. The tropical climate is too “sticky” to get much comfort, or + anything else, out of ordinary pockets. + </p> + <p> + In addition, you supply your gunbearer with a cartridge belt, a leather or + canvas carrying bag, water bottle for him and for yourself, a sheath knife + and a whetstone. In the bag are your camera, tape line, the whetstone, + field cleaners and lunch. You personally carry your field glasses, sun + glasses, a knife, compass, matches, police whistle and notebook. The field + glasses should not be more than six power; and if possible you should get + the sort with detachable prisms. The prisms are apt to cloud in a tropical + climate, and the non-detachable sort are almost impossible for a layman to + clean. Hang these glasses around your neck by a strap only just long + enough to permit you to raise them to your eyes. The best notebook is the + “loose-leaf” sort. By means of this you can keep always a fresh leaf on + top; and at night can transfer your day's notes to safe keeping in your + tin box. The sun glasses should not be smoked or dark-you can do nothing + with them-but of the new amberol, the sort that excludes the ultra-violet + rays, but otherwise makes the world brighter and gayer. Spectacle frames + of non-corrosive white metal, not steel, are the proper sort. + </p> + <p> + To clean your guns you must supply plenty of oil, and then some more. The + East African gunbearer has a quite proper and gratifying, but most + astonishing horror for a suspicion of rust; and to use oil any faster he + would have to drink it. + </p> + <p> + Other Equipment. All this has taken much time to tell about, it has not + done much toward filling up that tin box. Dump in your toilet effects and + a bath towel, two or three scalpels for taxidermy, a ball of string, some + safety-pins, a small tool kit, sewing materials, a flask of brandy, kodak + films packed in tin, a boxed thermometer, an aneroid (if you are curious + as to elevations), journal, tags for labelling trophies, a few yards of + gun cloth, and the medicine kit. + </p> + <p> + The latter divides into two classes: for your men and for yourself. The + men will suffer from certain well defined troubles: “tumbo,” or + overeating; diarrhaea, bronchial colds, fever and various small injuries. + For “tumbo” you want a liberal supply of Epsom's salts; for diarrhaea you + need chlorodyne; any good expectorant for the colds; quinine for the + fever; permanganate and plenty of bandages for the injuries. With this lot + you can do wonders. For yourself you need, or may need, in addition, a + more elaborate lot: Laxative, quinine, phenacetin, bismuth and soda, + bromide of ammonium, morphia, camphor-ice, and aspirin. A clinical + thermometer for whites and one for blacks should be included. A tin of + malted milk is not a bad thing to take as an emergency ration after fever. + </p> + <p> + By this time your tin box is fairly well provided. You may turn to general + supplies. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Land of Footprints, by Stewart Edward White + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF FOOTPRINTS *** + +***** This file should be named 1378-h.htm or 1378-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/7/1378/ + +Produced by Aaron Cannon, and David Widger + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Land of Footprints + +Author: Stewart Edward White + +Posting Date: August 20, 2008 [EBook #1378] +Release Date: July, 1998 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF FOOTPRINTS *** + + + + +Produced by Aaron Cannon + + + + + +THE LAND OF FOOTPRINTS + +by Stewart Edward White + +1913 + + + + +I. ON BOOKS OF ADVENTURE + +Books of sporting, travel, and adventure in countries little known to +the average reader naturally fall in two classes-neither, with a very +few exceptions, of great value. One class is perhaps the logical result +of the other. + +Of the first type is the book that is written to make the most of far +travels, to extract from adventure the last thrill, to impress the +awestricken reader with a full sense of the danger and hardship the +writer has undergone. Thus, if the latter takes out quite an ordinary +routine permit to go into certain districts, he makes the most of +travelling in "closed territory," implying that he has obtained an +especial privilege, and has penetrated where few have gone before him. +As a matter of fact, the permit is issued merely that the authorities +may keep track of who is where. Anybody can get one. This class of +writer tells of shooting beasts at customary ranges of four and five +hundred yards. I remember one in especial who airily and as a matter +of fact killed all his antelope at such ranges. Most men have shot +occasional beasts at a quarter mile or so, but not airily nor as +a matter of fact: rather with thanksgiving and a certain amount of +surprise. The gentleman of whom I speak mentioned getting an eland at +seven hundred and fifty yards. By chance I happened to mention this to a +native Africander. + +"Yes," said he, "I remember that; I was there." + +This interested me-and I said so. + +"He made a long shot," said I. + +"A GOOD long shot," replied the Africander. + +"Did you pace the distance?" + +He laughed. "No," said he, "the old chap was immensely delighted. 'Eight +hundred yards if it was an inch!' he cried." + +"How far was it?" + +"About three hundred and fifty. But it was a long shot, all right." + +And it was! Three hundred and fifty yards is a very long shot. It is +over four city blocks-New York size. But if you talk often enough and +glibly enough of "four and five hundred yards," it does not sound like +much, does it? + +The same class of writer always gets all the thrills. He speaks of +"blanched cheeks," of the "thrilling suspense," and so on down the gamut +of the shilling shocker. His stuff makes good reading; there is no +doubt of that. The spellbound public likes it, and to that extent it has +fulfilled its mission. Also, the reader believes it to the letter-why +should he not? Only there is this curious result: he carries away in +his mind the impression of unreality, of a country impossible to +be understood and gauged and savoured by the ordinary human mental +equipment. It is interesting, just as are historical novels, or the +copper-riveted heroes of modern fiction, but it has no real relation +with human life. In the last analysis the inherent untruth of the +thing forces itself on him. He believes, but he does not apprehend; he +acknowledges the fact, but he cannot grasp its human quality. The affair +is interesting, but it is more or less concocted of pasteboard for his +amusement. Thus essential truth asserts its right. + +All this, you must understand, is probably not a deliberate attempt +to deceive. It is merely the recrudescence under the stimulus of a +brand-new environment of the boyish desire to be a hero. When a man +jumps back into the Pleistocene he digs up some of his ancestors' +cave-qualities. Among these is the desire for personal adornment. His +modern development of taste precludes skewers in the ears and polished +wire around the neck; so he adorns himself in qualities instead. It is +quite an engaging and diverting trait of character. The attitude of mind +it both presupposes and helps to bring about is too complicated for my +brief analysis. In itself it is no more blameworthy than the small boy's +pretence at Indians in the back yard; and no more praiseworthy than +infantile decoration with feathers. + +In its results, however, we are more concerned. Probably each of us has +his mental picture that passes as a symbol rather than an idea of the +different continents. This is usually a single picture-a deep river, +with forest, hanging snaky vines, anacondas and monkeys for the east +coast of South America, for example. It is built up in youth by chance +reading and chance pictures, and does as well as a pink place on the +map to stand for a part of the world concerning which we know nothing at +all. As time goes on we extend, expand, and modify this picture in the +light of what knowledge we may acquire. So the reading of many books +modifies and expands our first crude notions of Equatorial Africa. And +the result is, if we read enough of the sort I describe above, we build +the idea of an exciting, dangerous, extra-human continent, visited by +half-real people of the texture of the historical-fiction hero, who have +strange and interesting adventures which we could not possibly imagine +happening to ourselves. + +This type of book is directly responsible for the second sort. The +author of this is deadly afraid of being thought to brag of his +adventures. He feels constantly on him the amusedly critical eye of the +old-timer. When he comes to describe the first time a rhino dashed in +his direction, he remembers that old hunters, who have been so charged +hundreds of times, may read the book. Suddenly, in that light, the +adventure becomes pitifully unimportant. He sets down the fact that "we +met a rhino that turned a bit nasty, but after a shot in the shoulder +decided to leave us alone." Throughout he keeps before his mind's eye +the imaginary audience of those who have done. He writes for them, +to please them, to convince them that he is not "swelled head," nor +"cocky," nor "fancies himself," nor thinks he has done, been, or seen +anything wonderful. It is a good, healthy frame of mind to be in; but +it, no more than the other type, can produce books that leave on the +minds of the general public any impression of a country in relation to a +real human being. + +As a matter of fact, the same trouble is at the bottom of both failures. +The adventure writer, half unconsciously perhaps, has been too much +occupied play-acting himself into half-forgotten boyhood heroics. The +more modest man, with even more self-consciousness, has been thinking of +how he is going to appear in the eyes of the expert. Both have thought +of themselves before their work. This aspect of the matter would +probably vastly astonish the modest writer. + +If, then, one is to formulate an ideal toward which to write, he might +express it exactly in terms of man and environment. Those readers +desiring sheer exploration can get it in any library: those in search +of sheer romantic adventure can purchase plenty of it at any book-stall. +But the majority want something different from either of these. They +want, first of all, to know what the country is like-not in vague and +grandiose "word paintings," nor in strange and foreign sounding words +and phrases, but in comparison with something they know. What is it +nearest like-Arizona? Surrey? Upper New York? Canada? Mexico? Or is it +totally different from anything, as is the Grand Canyon? When you look +out from your camp-any one camp-how far do you see, and what do you +see?-mountains in the distance, or a screen of vines or bamboo near +hand, or what? When you get up in the morning, what is the first thing +to do? What does a rhino look like, where he lives, and what did you do +the first time one came at you? I don't want you to tell me as though I +were either an old hunter or an admiring audience, or as though you were +afraid somebody might think you were making too much of the matter. I +want to know how you REALLY felt. Were you scared or nervous? or did you +become cool? Tell me frankly just how it was, so I can see the thing as +happening to a common everyday human being. Then, even at second-hand +and at ten thousand miles distance, I can enjoy it actually, humanly, +even though vicariously, speculating a bit over my pipe as to how I +would have liked it myself. + +Obviously, to write such a book the author must at the same time sink +his ego and exhibit frankly his personality. The paradox in this is only +apparent. He must forget either to strut or to blush with diffidence. +Neither audience should be forgotten, and neither should be exclusively +addressed. Never should he lose sight of the wholesome fact that old +hunters are to read and to weigh; never should he for a moment slip +into the belief that he is justified in addressing the expert alone. His +attitude should be that many men know more and have done more than he, +but that for one reason or another these men are not ready to transmit +their knowledge and experience. + +To set down the formulation of an ideal is one thing: to fulfil it is +another. In the following pages I cannot claim a fulfilment, but only an +attempt. The foregoing dissertation must be considered not as a promise, +but as an explanation. No one knows better than I how limited my +African experience is, both in time and extent, bounded as it is by East +Equatorial Africa and a year. Hundreds of men are better qualified than +myself to write just this book; but unfortunately they will not do it. + + + + +II. AFRICA + +In looking back on the multitudinous pictures that the word Africa +bids rise in my memory, four stand out more distinctly than the +others. Strangely enough, these are by no means all pictures of average +country-the sort of thing one would describe as typical. Perhaps, in a +way, they symbolize more the spirit of the country to me, for certainly +they represent but a small minority of its infinitely varied aspects. +But since we must make a start somewhere, and since for some reason +these four crowd most insistently in the recollection it might be well +to begin with them. + +Our camp was pitched under a single large mimosa tree near the edge of +a deep and narrow ravine down which a stream flowed. A semicircle of low +mountains hemmed us in at the distance of several miles. The other side +of the semicircle was occupied by the upthrow of a low rise blocking +off an horizon at its nearest point but a few hundred yards away. Trees +marked the course of the stream; low scattered bushes alternated with +open plain. The grass grew high. We had to cut it out to make camp. + +Nothing indicated that we were otherwise situated than in a very +pleasant, rather wide grass valley in the embrace of the mountains. Only +a walk of a few hundred yards atop the upthrow of the low rise revealed +the fact that it was in reality the lip of a bench, and that beyond +it the country fell away in sheer cliffs whose ultimate drop was some +fifteen hundred feet. One could sit atop and dangle his feet over +unguessed abysses. + +For a week we had been hunting for greater kudu. Each day Memba Sasa and +I went in one direction, while Mavrouki and Kongoni took another line. +We looked carefully for signs, but found none fresher than the month +before. Plenty of other game made the country interesting; but we were +after a shy and valuable prize, so dared not shoot lesser things. At +last, at the end of the week, Mavrouki came in with a tale of eight +lions seen in the low scrub across the stream. The kudu business was +about finished, as far as this place went, so we decided to take a look +for the lions. + +We ate by lantern and at the first light were ready to start. But at +that moment, across the slope of the rim a few hundred yards away, +appeared a small group of sing-sing. These are a beautiful big beast, +with widespread horns, proud and wonderful, like Landseer's stags, and +I wanted one of them very much. So I took the Springfield, and dropped +behind the line of some bushes. The stalk was of the ordinary sort. +One has to remain behind cover, to keep down wind, to make no quick +movements. Sometimes this takes considerable manoeuvring; especially, as +now, in the case of a small band fairly well scattered out for feeding. +Often after one has succeeded in placing them all safely behind the +scattered cover, a straggler will step out into view. Then the hunter +must stop short, must slowly, oh very, very slowly, sink down out of +sight; so slowly, in fact, that he must not seem to move, but rather to +melt imperceptibly away. Then he must take up his progress at a lower +plane of elevation. Perhaps he needs merely to stoop; or he may crawl +on hands and knees; or he may lie flat and hitch himself forward by his +toes, pushing his gun ahead. If one of the beasts suddenly looks +very intently in his direction, he must freeze into no matter what +uncomfortable position, and so remain an indefinite time. Even a +hotel-bred child to whom you have rashly made advances stares no longer +nor more intently than a buck that cannot make you out. + +I had no great difficulty with this lot, but slipped up quite +successfully to within one hundred and fifty yards. There I raised my +head behind a little bush to look. Three does grazed nearest me, their +coats rough against the chill of early morning. Up the slope were two +more does and two funny, fuzzy babies. An immature buck occupied the +extreme left with three young ladies. But the big buck, the leader, the +boss of the lot, I could not see anywhere. Of course he must be about, +and I craned my neck cautiously here and there trying to make him out. + +Suddenly, with one accord, all turned and began to trot rapidly away to +the right, their heads high. In the strange manner of animals, they had +received telepathic alarm, and had instantly obeyed. Then beyond and +far to the right I at last saw the beast I had been looking for. The old +villain had been watching me all the time! + +The little herd in single file made their way rapidly along the face +of the rise. They were headed in the direction of the stream. Now, I +happened to know that at this point the stream-canyon was bordered by +sheer cliffs. Therefore, the sing-sing must round the hill, and not +cross the stream. By running to the top of the hill I might catch a +glimpse of them somewhere below. So I started on a jog trot, trying to +hit the golden mean of speed that would still leave me breath to shoot. +This was an affair of some nicety in the tall grass. Just before I +reached the actual slope, however, I revised my schedule. The reason was +supplied by a rhino that came grunting to his feet about seventy yards +away. He had not seen me, and he had not smelled me, but the general +disturbance of all these events had broken into his early morning nap. +He looked to me like a person who is cross before breakfast, so I ducked +low and ran around him. The last I saw of him he was still standing +there, quite disgruntled, and evidently intending to write to the +directors about it. + +Arriving at the top, I looked eagerly down. The cliff fell away at an +impossible angle, but sheer below ran out a narrow bench fifty yards +wide. Around the point of the hill to my right-where the herd had gone-a +game trail dropped steeply to this bench. I arrived just in time to see +the sing-sing, still trotting, file across the bench and over its edge, +on some other invisible game trail, to continue their descent of the +cliff. The big buck brought up the rear. At the very edge he came to a +halt, and looked back, throwing his head up and his nose out so that the +heavy fur on his neck stood forward like a ruff. It was a last glimpse +of him, so I held my little best, and pulled trigger. + +This happened to be one of those shots I spoke of-which the perpetrator +accepts with a thankful and humble spirit. The sing-sing leaped high in +the air and plunged over the edge of the bench. I signalled the camp-in +plain sight-to come and get the head and meat, and sat down to wait. And +while waiting, I looked out on a scene that has since been to me one of +my four symbolizations of Africa. + +The morning was dull, with gray clouds through which at wide intervals +streamed broad bands of misty light. Below me the cliff fell away clear +to a gorge in the depths of which flowed a river. Then the land began +to rise, broken, sharp, tumbled, terrible, tier after tier, gorge +after gorge, one twisted range after the other, across a breathlessly +immeasurable distance. The prospect was full of shadows thrown by the +tumult of lava. In those shadows one imagined stranger abysses. Far down +to the right a long narrow lake inaugurated a flatter, alkali-whitened +country of low cliffs in long straight lines. Across the distances +proper to a dozen horizons the tumbled chaos heaved and fell. The eye +sought rest at the bounds usual to its accustomed world-and went on. +There was no roundness to the earth, no grateful curve to drop this +great fierce country beyond a healing horizon out of sight. The +immensity of primal space was in it, and the simplicity of primal +things-rough, unfinished, full of mystery. There was no colour. The +scene was done in slate gray, darkening to the opaque where a tiny +distant rain squall started; lightening in the nearer shadows to reveal +half-guessed peaks; brightening unexpectedly into broad short bands +of misty gray light slanting from the gray heavens above to the sombre +tortured immensity beneath. It was such a thing as Gustave Dore might +have imaged to serve as an abiding place for the fierce chaotic spirit +of the African wilderness. + +I sat there for some time hugging my knees, waiting for the men to come. +The tremendous landscape seemed to have been willed to immobility. The +rain squalls forty miles or more away did not appear to shift their +shadows; the rare slanting bands of light from the clouds were as +constant as though they were falling through cathedral windows. But +nearer at hand other things were forward. The birds, thousands of them, +were doing their best to cheer things up. The roucoulements of doves +rose from the bushes down the face of the cliffs; the bell bird uttered +his clear ringing note; the chime bird gave his celebrated imitation of +a really gentlemanly sixty-horse power touring car hinting you out of +the way with the mellowness of a chimed horn; the bottle bird poured +gallons of guggling essence of happiness from his silver jug. From +the direction of camp, evidently jumped by the boys, a steinbuck loped +gracefully, pausing every few minutes to look back, his dainty legs +tense, his sensitive ears pointed toward the direction of disturbance. + +And now, along the face of the cliff, I make out the flashing of much +movement, half glimpsed through the bushes. Soon a fine old-man baboon, +his tail arched after the dandified fashion of the baboon aristocracy +stepped out, looked around, and bounded forward. Other old men followed +him, and then the young men, and a miscellaneous lot of half-grown +youngsters. The ladies brought up the rear, with the babies. These rode +their mothers' backs, clinging desperately while they leaped along, for +all the world like the pathetic monkey "jockeys" one sees strapped to +the backs of big dogs in circuses. When they had approached to within +fifty yards, remarked "hullo!" to them. Instantly they all stopped. +Those in front stood up on their hind legs; those behind clambered to +points of vantage on rocks and the tops of small bushes: They all took +a good long look at me. Then they told me what they thought about me +personally, the fact of my being there, and the rude way I had startled +them. Their remarks were neither complimentary nor refined. The old +men, in especial, got quite profane, and screamed excited billingsgate. +Finally they all stopped at once, dropped on all fours, and loped away, +their ridiculous long tails curved in a half arc. Then for the first +time I noticed that, under cover of the insults, the women and children +had silently retired. Once more I was left to the familiar gentle bird +calls, and the vast silence of the wilderness beyond. + +The second picture, also, was a view from a height, but of a totally +different character. It was also, perhaps, more typical of a greater +part of East Equatorial Africa. Four of us were hunting lions with +natives-both wild and tame-and a scratch pack of dogs. More of that +later. We had rummaged around all the morning without any results; and +now at noon had climbed to the top of a butte to eat lunch and look +abroad. + +Our butte ran up a gentle but accelerating slope to a peak of big +rounded rocks and slabs sticking out boldly from the soil of the hill. +We made ourselves comfortable each after his fashion. The gunbearers +leaned against rocks and rolled cigarettes. The savages squatted on +their heels, planting their spears ceremonially in front of them. One +of my friends lay on his back, resting a huge telescope over his crossed +feet. With this he purposed seeing any lion that moved within ten miles. +None of the rest of us could ever make out anything through the fearsome +weapon. Therefore, relieved from responsibility by the presence of this +Dreadnaught of a 'scope, we loafed and looked about us. This is what we +saw: + +Mountains at our backs, of course-at some distance; then plains in long +low swells like the easy rise and fall of a tropical sea, wave after +wave, and over the edge of the world beyond a distant horizon. Here and +there on this plain, single hills lay becalmed, like ships at sea; some +peaked, some cliffed like buttes, some long and low like the hulls of +battleships. The brown plain flowed up to wash their bases, liquid as +the sea itself, its tides rising in the coves of the hills, and ebbing +in the valleys between. Near at hand, in the middle distance, far away, +these fleets of the plain sailed, until at last hull-down over the +horizon their topmasts disappeared. Above them sailed too the phantom +fleet of the clouds, shot with light, shining like silver, airy as +racing yachts, yet casting here and there exaggerated shadows below. + +The sky in Africa is always very wide, greater than any other skies. +Between horizon and horizon is more space than any other world contains. +It is as though the cup of heaven had been pressed a little flatter; +so that while the boundaries have widened, the zenith, with its flaming +sun, has come nearer. And yet that is not a constant quantity either. I +have seen one edge of the sky raised straight up a few million miles, as +though some one had stuck poles under its corners, so that the western +heaven did not curve cup-wise over to the horizon at all as it did +everywhere else, but rather formed the proscenium of a gigantic stage. +On this stage they had piled great heaps of saffron yellow clouds, and +struck shafts of yellow light, and filled the spaces with the lurid +portent of a storm-while the twenty thousand foot mountains below, +crouched whipped and insignificant to the earth. + +We sat atop our butte for an hour while H. looked through his 'scope. +After the soft silent immensity of the earth, running away to infinity, +with its low waves, and its scattered fleet of hills, it was with +difficulty that we brought our gaze back to details and to things near +at hand. Directly below us we could make out many different-hued specks. +Looking closely, we could see that those specks were game animals. They +fed here and there in bands of from ten to two hundred, with valleys and +hills between. Within the radius of the eye they moved, nowhere crowded +in big herds, but everywhere present. A band of zebras grazed the side +of one of the earth waves, a group of gazelles walked on the skyline, +a herd of kongoni rested in the hollow between. On the next rise was a +similar grouping; across the valley a new variation. As far as the eye +could strain its powers it could make out more and ever more beasts. I +took up my field glasses, and brought them all to within a sixth of the +distance. After amusing myself for some time in watching them, I swept +the glasses farther on. Still the same animals grazing on the hills and +in the hollows. I continued to look, and to look again, until even +the powerful prismatic glasses failed to show things big enough to +distinguish. At the limit of extreme vision I could still make out game, +and yet more game. And as I took my glasses from my eyes, and realized +how small a portion of this great land-sea I had been able to examine; +as I looked away to the ship-hills hull-down over the horizon, and +realized that over all that extent fed the Game; the ever-new wonder of +Africa for the hundredth time filled my mind-the teeming fecundity of +her bosom. + +"Look here," said H. without removing his eye from the 'scope, "just +beyond the edge of that shadow to the left of the bushes in the +donga-I've been watching them ten minutes, and I can't make 'em out yet. +They're either hyenas acting mighty queer, or else two lionesses." + +We snatched our glasses and concentrated on that important detail. + +To catch the third experience you must have journeyed with us across the +"Thirst," as the natives picturesquely name the waterless tract of two +days and a half. Our very start had been delayed by a breakage of some +Dutch-sounding essential to our ox wagon, caused by the confusion of a +night attack by lions: almost every night we had lain awake as long as +we could to enjoy the deep-breathed grumbling or the vibrating roars of +these beasts. Now at last, having pushed through the dry country to +the river in the great plain, we were able to take breath from our mad +hurry, and to give our attention to affairs beyond the limits of mere +expediency. One of these was getting Billy a shot at a lion. + +Billy had never before wanted to shoot anything except a python. Why a +python we could not quite fathom. Personally, I think she had some vague +idea of getting even for that Garden of Eden affair. But lately, pythons +proving scarcer than in that favoured locality, she had switched to a +lion. She wanted, she said, to give the skin to her sister. In vain +we pointed out that a zebra hide was very decorative, that lions go to +absurd lengths in retaining possession of their own skins, and other +equally convincing facts. It must be a lion or nothing; so naturally we +had to make a try. + +There are several ways of getting lions, only one of which is at all +likely to afford a steady pot shot to a very small person trying to +manipulate an over-size gun. That is to lay out a kill. The idea is to +catch the lion at it in the early morning before he has departed for +home. The best kill is a zebra: first, because lions like zebra; second, +because zebra are fairly large; third, because zebra are very numerous. + +Accordingly, after we had pitched camp just within a fringe of mimosa +trees and of red-flowering aloes near the river; had eaten lunch, smoked +a pipe and issued necessary orders to the men, C. and I set about the +serious work of getting an appropriate bait in an appropriate place. + +The plains stretched straight away from the river bank to some +indefinite and unknown distance to the south. A low range of mountains +lay blue to the left; and a mantle of scrub thornbush closed the view to +the right. This did not imply that we could see far straight ahead, for +the surface of the plain rose slowly to the top of a swell about two +miles away. Beyond it reared a single butte peak at four or five times +that distance. + +We stepped from the fringe of red aloes and squinted through the dancing +heat shimmer. Near the limit of vision showed a very faint glimmering +whitish streak. A newcomer to Africa would not have looked at it twice: +nevertheless, it could be nothing but zebra. These gaudily marked beasts +take queer aspects even on an open plain. Most often they show pure +white; sometimes a jet black; only when within a few hundred yards does +one distinguish the stripes. Almost always they are very easily made +out. Only when very distant and in heat shimmer, or in certain half +lights of evening, does their so-called "protective colouration" seem to +be in working order, and even then they are always quite visible to the +least expert hunter's scrutiny. + +It is not difficult to kill a zebra, though sometimes it has to be done +at a fairly long range. If all you want is meat for the porters, the +matter is simple enough. But when you require bait for a lion, that; is +another affair entirely. In the first place, you must be able to stalk +within a hundred yards of your kill without being seen; in the second +place, you must provide two or three good lying-down places for your +prospective trophy within fifteen yards of the carcass-and no more than +two or three; in the third place, you must judge the direction of the +probable morning wind, and must be able to approach from leeward. It is +evidently pretty good luck to find an accommodating zebra in just such +a spot. It is a matter of still greater nicety to drop him absolutely in +his tracks. In a case of porters' meat it does not make any particular +difference if he runs a hundred yards before he dies. With lion bait +even fifty yards makes all the difference in the world. + +C. and I talked it over and resolved to press Scallywattamus into +service. Scallywattamus is a small white mule who is firmly convinced +that each and every bush in Africa conceals a mule-eating rhinoceros, +and who does not intend to be one of the number so eaten. But we had +noticed that at times zebra would be so struck with the strange sight of +Scallywattamus carrying a man, that they would let us get quite close. +C. was to ride Scallywattamus while I trudged along under his lee ready +to shoot. + +We set out through the heat shimmer, gradually rising as the plain +slanted. Imperceptibly the camp and the trees marking the river's course +fell below us and into the heat haze. In the distance, close to the +stream, we made out a blurred, brown-red solid mass which we knew for +Masai cattle. Various little Thompson's gazelles skipped away to the +left waggling their tails vigorously and continuously as Nature long +since commanded "Tommies" to do. The heat haze steadied around the dim +white line, so we could make out the individual animals. There were +plenty of them, dozing in the sun. A single tiny treelet broke the plain +just at the skyline of the rise. C. and I talked low-voiced as we went +along. We agreed that the tree was an excellent landmark to come to, +that the little rise afforded proper cover, and that in the morning the +wind would in all likelihood blow toward the river. There were perhaps +twenty zebra near enough to the chosen spot. Any of them would do. + +But the zebra did not give a hoot for Scallywattamus. At five hundred +yards three or four of them awoke with a start, stared at us a minute, +and moved slowly away. They told all the zebra they happened upon that +the three idiots approaching were at once uninteresting and dangerous. +At four hundred and fifty yards a half dozen more made off at a trot. At +three hundred and fifty yards the rest plunged away at a canter-all +but one. He remained to stare, but his tail was up, and we knew he +only stayed because he knew he could easily catch up in the next twenty +seconds. + +The chance was very slim of delivering a knockout at that distance, but +we badly needed meat, anyway, after our march through the Thirst, so I +tried him. We heard the well-known plunk of the bullet, but down went +his head, up went his heels, and away went he. We watched him in vast +disgust. He cavorted out into a bare open space without cover of any +sort, and then flopped over. I thought I caught a fleeting grin of +delight on Mavrouki's face; but he knew enough instantly to conceal his +satisfaction over sure meat. + +There were now no zebra anywhere near; but since nobody ever thinks +of omitting any chances in Africa, I sneaked up to the tree and took +a perfunctory look. There stood another, providentially absent-minded, +zebra! + +We got that one. Everybody was now happy. The boys raced over to the +first kill, which soon took its dismembered way toward camp. C. and I +carefully organized our plan of campaign. We fixed in our memories the +exact location of each and every bush; we determined compass direction +from camp, and any other bearings likely to prove useful in finding so +small a spot in the dark. Then we left a boy to keep carrion birds off +until sunset; and returned home. + +We were out in the morning before even the first sign of dawn. Billy +rode her little mule, C. and I went afoot, Memba Sasa accompanied us +because he could see whole lions where even C.'s trained eye could not +make out an ear, and the syce went along to take care of the mule. The +heavens were ablaze with the thronging stars of the tropics, so we found +we could make out the skyline of the distant butte over the rise of the +plains. The earth itself was a pool of absolute blackness. We could not +see where we were placing our feet, and we were continually bringing up +suddenly to walk around an unexpected aloe or thornbush. The night +was quite still, but every once in a while from the blackness came +rustlings, scamperings, low calls, and once or twice the startled +barking of zebra very near at hand. The latter sounded as ridiculous as +ever. It is one of the many incongruities of African life that Nature +should have given so large and so impressive a creature the petulant +yapping of an exasperated Pomeranian lap dog. At the end of three +quarters of an hour of more or less stumbling progress, we made out +against the sky the twisted treelet that served as our landmark. Billy +dismounted, turned the mule over to the syce, and we crept slowly +forward until within a guessed two or three hundred yards of our kill. + +Nothing remained now but to wait for the daylight. It had already begun +to show. Over behind the distant mountains some one was kindling the +fires, and the stars were flickering out. The splendid ferocity of the +African sunrise was at hand. Long bands of slate dark clouds lay close +along the horizon, and behind them glowed a heart of fire, as on a small +scale the lamplight glows through a metal-worked shade. On either side +the sky was pale green-blue, translucent and pure, deep as infinity +itself. The earth was still black, and the top of the rise near at hand +was clear edged. On that edge, and by a strange chance accurately in +the centre of illumination, stood the uncouth massive form of a shaggy +wildebeeste, his head raised, staring to the east. He did not move; +nothing of that fire and black world moved; only instant by instant it +changed, swelling in glory toward some climax until one expected at any +moment a fanfare of trumpets, the burst of triumphant culmination. + +Then very far down in the distance a lion roared. The wildebeeste, +without moving, bellowed back an answer or a defiance. Down in the +hollow an ostrich boomed. Zebra barked, and several birds chirped +strongly. The tension was breaking not in the expected fanfare and burst +of triumphal music, but in a manner instantly felt to be more fitting +to what was indeed a wonder, but a daily wonder for all that. At one and +the same instant the rim of the sun appeared and the wildebeeste, after +the sudden habit of his kind, made up his mind to go. He dropped his +head and came thundering down past us at full speed. Straight to the +west he headed, and so disappeared. We could hear the beat of his hoofs +dying into the distance. He had gone like a Warder of the Morning whose +task was finished. On the knife-edged skyline appeared the silhouette of +slim-legged little Tommies, flirting their rails, sniffing at the +dewy grass, dainty, slender, confiding, the open-day antithesis of the +tremendous and awesome lord of the darkness that had roared its way to +its lair, and to the massive shaggy herald of morning that had thundered +down to the west. + + + + +III. THE CENTRAL PLATEAU + +Now is required a special quality of the imagination, not in myself, but +in my readers, for it becomes necessary for them to grasp the logic of +a whole country in one mental effort. The difficulties to me are very +real. If I am to tell you it all in detail, your mind becomes confused +to the point of mingling the ingredients of the description. The +resultant mental picture is a composite; it mixes localities wide +apart; it comes out, like the snake-creeper-swamp-forest thing of +grammar-school South America, an unreal and deceitful impression. If, +on the other hand, I try to give you a bird's-eye view-saying, here +is plain, and there follows upland, and yonder succeed mountains and +hills-you lose the sense of breadth and space and the toil of many +days. The feeling of onward outward extending distance is gone; and that +impression so indispensable to finite understanding-"here am I, and what +is beyond is to be measured by the length of my legs and the toil of +my days." You will not stop long enough on my plains to realize their +physical extent nor their influence on the human soul. If I mention them +in a sentence, you dismiss them in a thought. And that is something the +plains themselves refuse to permit you to do. Yet sometimes one must +become a guide-book, and bespeak his reader's imagination. + +The country, then, wherein we travelled begins at the sea. Along the +coast stretches a low rolling country of steaming tropics, grown with +cocoanuts, bananas, mangoes, and populated by a happy, half-naked race +of the Swahilis. Leaving the coast, the country rises through hills. +These hills are at first fertile and green and wooded. Later they turn +into an almost unbroken plateau of thorn scrub, cruel, monotonous, +almost impenetrable. Fix thorn scrub in your mind, with rhino trails, +and occasional openings for game, and a few rivers flowing through palms +and narrow jungle strips; fix it in your mind until your mind is filled +with it, until you are convinced that nothing else can exist in the +world but more and more of the monotonous, terrible, dry, onstretching +desert of thorn. + +Then pass through this to the top of the hills inland, and journey over +these hills to the highland plains. + +Now sense and appreciate these wide seas of and the hills and ranges +of mountains rising from them, and their infinite diversity of +country-their rivers marked by ribbons of jungle, their scattered-bush +and their thick-bush areas, their grass expanses, and their great +distances extending far over exceedingly wide horizons. Realize how many +weary hours you must travel to gain the nearest butte, what days of toil +the view from its top will disclose. Savour the fact that you can spend +months in its veriest corner without exhausting its possibilities. Then, +and not until then, raise your eyes to the low rising transverse range +that bands it to the west as the thorn desert bands it to the east. + +And on these ranges are the forests, the great bewildering forests. +In what looks like a grove lying athwart a little hill you can lose +yourself for days. Here dwell millions of savages in an apparently +untouched wilderness. Here rises a snow mountain on the equator. Here +are tangles and labyrinths, great bamboo forests lost in folds of the +mightiest hills. Here are the elephants. Here are the swinging vines, +the jungle itself. + +Yet finally it breaks. We come out on the edge of things and look down +on a great gash in the earth. It is like a sunken kingdom in itself, +miles wide, with its own mountain ranges, its own rivers, its own +landscape features. Only on either side of it rise the escarpments which +are the true level of the plateau. One can spend two months in this +valley, too, and in the countries south to which it leads. And on its +farther side are the high plateau plains again, or the forests, or the +desert, or the great lakes that lie at the source of the Nile. + +So now, perhaps, we are a little prepared to go ahead. The guide-book +work is finished for good and all. There is the steaming hot low coast +belt, and the hot dry thorn desert belt, and the varied immense plains, +and the high mountain belt of the forests, and again the variegated wide +country of the Rift Valley and the high plateau. To attempt to tell +you seriatim and in detail just what they are like is the task of an +encyclopaedist. Perhaps more indirectly you may be able to fill in the +picture of the country, the people, and the beasts. + + + + + +IV. THE FIRST CAMP + +Our very first start into the new country was made when we piled out +from the little train standing patiently awaiting the good pleasure +of our descent. That feature strikes me with ever new wonder-the +accommodating way trains of the Uganda Railway have of waiting for you. +One day, at a little wayside station, C. and I were idly exchanging +remarks with the only white man in sight, killing time until the engine +should whistle to a resumption of the journey. The guard lingered about +just out of earshot. At the end of five minutes C. happened to catch his +eye, whereupon he ventured to approach. + +"When you have finished your conversation," said he politely, "we are +all ready to go on." + +On the morning in question there were a lot of us to disembark-one +hundred and twenty-two, to be exact-of which four were white. We were +not yet acquainted with our men, nor yet with our stores, nor with the +methods of our travel. The train went off and left us in the middle of +a high plateau, with low ridges running across it, and mountains in the +distance. Men were squabbling earnestly for the most convenient loads to +carry, and as fast as they had gained undisputed possession, they marked +the loads with some private sign of their own. M'ganga, the headman, +tall, fierce, big-framed and bony, clad in fez, a long black overcoat, +blue puttees and boots, stood stiff as a ramrod, extended a rigid right +arm and rattled off orders in a high dynamic voice. In his left hand he +clasped a bulgy umbrella, the badge of his dignity and the symbol of his +authority. The four askaris, big men too, with masterful high-cheekboned +countenances, rushed here and there seeing that the orders were carried +out. Expostulations, laughter, the sound of quarrelling rose and fell. +Never could the combined volume of it all override the firecracker +stream of M'ganga's eloquence. + +We had nothing to do with it all, but stood a little dazed, staring at +the novel scene. Our men were of many tribes, each with its own cast +of features, its own notions of what befitted man's performance of his +duties here below. They stuck together each in its clan. A fine free +individualism of personal adornment characterized them. Every man +dressed for his own satisfaction solely. They hung all sorts of things +in the distended lobes of their ears. One had succeeded in inserting a +fine big glittering tobacco tin. Others had invented elaborate topiary +designs in their hair, shaving their heads so as to leave strange tufts, +patches, crescents on the most unexpected places. Of the intricacy of +these designs they seemed absurdly proud. Various sorts of treasure +trove hung from them-a bunch of keys to which there were no locks, +discarded hunting knives, tips of antelope horns, discharged brass +cartridges, a hundred and one valueless trifles plucked proudly from +the rubbish heap. They were all clothed. We had supplied each with a +red blanket, a blue jersey, and a water bottle. The blankets they were +twisting most ingeniously into turbans. Beside these they sported a +great variety of garments. Shooting coats that had seen better days, a +dozen shabby overcoats-worn proudly through the hottest noons-raggety +breeches and trousers made by some London tailor, queer baggy homemades +of the same persuasion, or quite simply the square of cotton cloth +arranged somewhat like a short tight skirt, or nothing at all as the +man's taste ran. They were many of them amusing enough; but somehow they +did not look entirely farcical and ridiculous, like our negroes +putting on airs. All these things were worn with a simplicity of quiet +confidence in their entire fitness. And beneath the red blanket turbans +the half-wild savage faces peered out. + +Now Mahomet approached. Mahomet was my personal boy. He was a Somali +from the Northwest coast, dusky brown, with the regular clear-cut +features of a Greek marble god. His dress was of neat khaki, and he +looked down on savages; but, also, as with all the dark-skinned races, +up to his white master. Mahomet was with me during all my African stay, +and tested out nobly. As yet, of course, I did not know him. + +"Chakula taiari," said he. + +That is Swahili. It means literally "food is ready." After one has +hunted in Africa for a few months, it means also "paradise is opened," +"grief is at an end," "joy and thanksgiving are now in order," and +similar affairs. Those two words are never forgotten, and the veriest +beginner in Swahili can recognize them without the slightest effort. + +We followed Mahomet. Somehow, without orders, in all this confusion, the +personal staff had been quietly and efficiently busy. Drawn a little to +one side stood a table with four chairs. The table was covered with a +white cloth, and was set with a beautiful white enamel service. We +took our places. Behind each chair straight as a ramrod stood a neat +khaki-clad boy. They brought us food, and presented it properly on the +left side, waiting like well-trained butlers. We might have been in +a London restaurant. As three of us were Americans, we felt a trifle +dazed. The porters, having finished the distribution of their loads, +squatted on their heels and watched us respectfully. + +And then, not two hundred yards away, four ostriches paced slowly across +the track, paying not the slightest attention to us-our first real +wild ostriches, scornful of oranges, careless of tourists, and rightful +guardians of their own snowy plumes. The passage of these four solemn +birds seemed somehow to lend this strange open-air meal an exotic +flavour. We were indeed in Africa; and the ostriches helped us to +realize it. + +We finished breakfast and arose from our chairs. Instantly a half dozen +men sprang forward. Before our amazed eyes the table service, the chairs +and the table itself disappeared into neat packages. M'ganga arose to +his feet. + +"Bandika!" he cried. + +The askaris rushed here and there actively. + +"Bandika! bandika! bandika!" they cried repeatedly. + +The men sprang into activity. A struggle heaved the varicoloured +multitude-and, lo! each man stood upright, his load balanced on his +head. At the same moment the syces led up our horses, mounted and headed +across the little plain whence had come the four ostriches. Our African +journey had definitely begun. + +Behind us, all abreast marched the four gunbearers; then the four syces; +then the safari single file, an askari at the head bearing proudly his +ancient musket and our banner, other askaris flanking, M'ganga bringing +up the rear with his mighty umbrella and an unsuspected rhinoceros-hide +whip. The tent boys and the cook scattered along the flank anywhere, as +befitted the free and independent who had nothing to do with the serious +business of marching. A measured sound of drumming followed the beating +of loads with a hundred sticks; a wild, weird chanting burst from the +ranks and died down again as one or another individual or group felt +moved to song. One lot had a formal chant and response. Their leader, in +a high falsetto, said something like, + +"Kuna koma kuno," + +and all his tribesmen would follow with a single word in a deep gruff +tone, + +"Za-la-nee!" + +All of which undoubtedly helped immensely. + +The country was a bully country, but somehow it did not look like +Africa. That is to say, it looked altogether too much like any amount +of country at home. There was nothing strange and exotic about it. We +crossed a little plain, and up over a small hill, down into a shallow +canyon that seemed to be wooded with live oaks, across a grass valley +or so, and around a grass hill. Then we went into camp at the edge of +another grass valley, by a stream across which rose some ordinary low +cliffs. + +That is the disconcerting thing about a whole lot of this country-it +is so much like home. Of course, there are many wide districts exotic +enough in all conscience-the jungle beds of the rivers, the bamboo +forests, the great tangled forests themselves, the banana groves down +the aisles of which dance savages with shields-but so very much of it is +familiar. One needs only church spires and a red-roofed village or so +to imagine one's self in Surrey. There is any amount of country +like Arizona, and more like the uplands of Wyoming, and a lot of it +resembling the smaller landscapes of New England. The prospects of the +whole world are there, so that somewhere every wanderer can find the +countryside of his own home repeated. And, by the same token, that is +exactly what makes a good deal of it so startling. When a man sees a +file of spear-armed savages, or a pair of snorty old rhinos, step out +into what has seemed practically his own back yard home, he is even more +startled than if he had encountered them in quite strange surroundings. + +We rode into the grass meadow and picked camp site. The men trailed in +and dumped down their loads in a row. + +At a signal they set to work. A dozen to each tent got them up in a +jiffy. A long file brought firewood from the stream bed. Others carried +water, stones for the cook, a dozen other matters. The tent boys rescued +our boxes; they put together the cots and made the beds, even before the +tents were raised from the ground. Within an incredibly short space of +time the three green tents were up and arranged, each with its bed made, +its mosquito bar hung, its personal box open, its folding washstand +ready with towels and soap, the table and chairs unlimbered. At a +discreet distance flickered the cook campfire, and at a still discreeter +distance the little tents of the men gleamed pure white against the +green of the high grass. + + + + + +V. MEMBA SASA + +I wish I could plunge you at once into the excitements of big game in +Africa, but I cannot truthfully do so. To be sure, we went hunting that +afternoon, up over the low cliffs, and we saw several of a very lively +little animal known as the Chandler's reedbuck. This was not supposed to +be a game country, and that was all we did see. At these we shot several +times-disgracefully. In fact, for several days we could not shoot +at all, at any range, nor at anything. It was very sad, and very +aggravating. Afterward we found that this is an invariable experience to +the newcomer. The light is new, the air is different, the sizes of the +game are deceiving. Nobody can at first hit anything. At the end of five +days we suddenly began to shoot our normal gait. Why, I do not know. + +But in this afternoon tramp around the low cliffs after the elusive +reedbuck, I for the first time became acquainted with a man who +developed into a real friend. + +His name is Memba Sasa. Memba Sasa are two Swahili words meaning "now a +crocodile." Subsequently, after I had learned to talk Swahili, I tried +to find out what he was formerly, before he was a crocodile, but did not +succeed. + +He was of the tribe of the Monumwezi, of medium height, compactly +and sturdily built, carried himself very erect, and moved with a +concentrated and vigorous purposefulness. His countenance might be +described as pleasing but not handsome, of a dark chocolate brown, with +the broad nose of the negro, but with a firm mouth, high cheekbones, and +a frowning intentness of brow that was very fine. When you talked to +him he looked you straight in the eye. His own eyes were shaded by +long, soft, curling lashes behind which they looked steadily and +gravely-sometimes fiercely-on the world. He rarely smiled-never merely +in understanding or for politeness' sake-and never laughed unless there +was something really amusing. Then he chuckled from deep in his chest, +the most contagious laughter you can imagine. Often we, at the other end +of the camp, have laughed in sympathy, just at the sound of that deep +and hearty ho! ho! ho! of Memba Sasa. Even at something genuinely +amusing he never laughed much, nor without a very definite restraint. In +fact, about him was no slackness, no sprawling abandon of the native +in relaxation; but always a taut efficiency and a never-failing +self-respect. + +Naturally, behind such a fixed moral fibre must always be some moral +idea. When a man lives up to a real, not a pompous, dignity some ideal +must inform it. Memba Sasa's ideal was that of the Hunter. + +He was a gunbearer; and he considered that a good gunbearer stood quite +a few notches above any other human being, save always the white man, +of course. And even among the latter Memba Sasa made great differences. +These differences he kept to himself, and treated all with equal +respect. Nevertheless, they existed, and Memba Sasa very well knew that +fact. In the white world were two classes of masters: those who hunted +well, and those who were considered by them as their friends and equals. +Why they should be so considered Memba Sasa did not know, but he trusted +the Hunter's judgment. These were the bwanas, or masters. All the rest +were merely mazungos, or, "white men." To their faces he called them +bwana, but in his heart he considered them not. + +Observe, I say those who hunted well. Memba Sasa, in his profession as +gunbearer, had to accompany those who hunted badly. In them he took +no pride; from them he held aloof in spirit; but for them he did his +conscientious best, upheld by the dignity of his profession. + +For to Mamba Sasa that profession was the proudest to which a black +man could aspire. He prided himself on mastering its every detail, in +accomplishing its every duty minutely and exactly. The major virtues of +a gunbearer are not to be despised by anybody; for they comprise great +physical courage, endurance, and loyalty: the accomplishments of a +gunbearer are worthy of a man's best faculties, for they include the +ability to see and track game, to take and prepare properly any sort of +a trophy, field taxidermy, butchering game meat, wood and plainscraft, +the knowledge of how properly to care for firearms in all sorts of +circumstances, and a half hundred other like minutiae. Memba Sasa knew +these things, and he performed them with the artist's love for details; +and his keen eyes were always spying for new ways. + +At a certain time I shot an egret, and prepared to take the skin. Memba +Sasa asked if he might watch me do it. Two months later, having killed +a really gaudy peacocklike member of the guinea fowl tribe, I handed +it over to him with instructions to take off the breast feathers before +giving it to the cook. In a half hour he brought me the complete skin, +I examined it carefully, and found it to be well done in every respect. +Now in skinning a bird there are a number of delicate and unusual +operations, such as stripping the primary quills from the bone, cutting +the ear cover, and the like. I had explained none of them; and yet Memba +Sasa, unassisted, had grasped their method from a single demonstration +and had remembered them all two months later! C. had a trick in making +the second skin incision of a trophy head that had the effect of giving +a better purchase to the knife. Its exact description would be out of +place here, but it actually consisted merely in inserting the point of +the knife two inches away from the place it is ordinarily inserted. One +day we noticed that Memba Sasa was making his incisions in that manner. +I went to Africa fully determined to care for my own rifle. The modern +high-velocity gun needs rather especial treatment; mere wiping out will +not do. I found that Memba Sasa already knew all about boiling water, +and the necessity for having it really boiling, about subsequent metal +sweating, and all the rest. After watching him at work I concluded, +rightly, that he would do a lot better job than I. + +To the new employer Memba Sasa maintained an attitude of strict +professional loyalty. His personal respect was upheld by the necessity +of every man to do his job in the world. Memba Sasa did his. He cleaned +the rifles; he saw that everything was in order for the day's march; he +was at my elbow all ways with more cartridges and the spare rifle; he +trailed and looked conscientiously. In his attitude was the stolidity +of the wooden Indian. No action of mine, no joke on the part of his +companions, no circumstance in the varying fortunes of the field gained +from him the faintest flicker of either approval, disapproval, or +interest. When we returned to camp he deposited my water bottle +and camera, seized the cleaning implements, and departed to his own +campfire. In the field he pointed out game that I did not see, and +waited imperturbably the result of my shot. + +As I before stated, the result of that shot for the first five days was +very apt to be nil. This, at the time, puzzled and grieved me a lot. +Occasionally I looked at Memba Sasa to catch some sign of sympathy, +disgust, contempt, or-rarely-triumph at a lucky shot. Nothing. He gently +but firmly took away my rifle, reloaded it, and handed it back; then +waited respectfully for my next move. He knew no English, and I no +Swahili. + +But as time went on this attitude changed. I was armed with the new +Springfield rifle, a weapon with 2,700 feet velocity, and with a +marvellously flat trajectory. This commanding advantage, combined with +a very long familiarity with firearms, enabled me to do some fairish +shooting, after the strangeness of these new conditions had been +mastered. Memba Sasa began to take a dawning interest in me as a +possible source of pride. We began to develop between us a means of +communication. I set myself deliberately to learn his language, and +after he had cautiously determined that I really meant it, he took the +greatest pains-always gravely-to teach me. A more human feeling sprang +up between us. + +But we had still the final test to undergo-that of danger and the tight +corner. + +In close quarters the gunbearer has the hardest job in the world. I have +the most profound respect for his absolute courage. Even to a man +armed and privileged to shoot and defend himself, a charging lion is an +awesome thing, requiring a certain amount of coolness and resolution to +face effectively. Think of the gunbearer at his elbow, depending not +on himself but on the courage and coolness of another. He cannot do one +solitary thing to defend himself. To bolt for the safety of a tree is +to beg the question completely, to brand himself as a shenzi forever; +to fire a gun in any circumstances is to beg the question also, for +the white man must be able to depend absolutely on his second gun in +an emergency. Those things are outside consideration, even, of any +respectable gunbearer. In addition, he must keep cool. He must see +clearly in the thickest excitement; must be ready unobtrusively to pass +up the second gun in the position most convenient for immediate use, to +seize the other and to perform the finicky task of reloading correctly +while some rampageous beast is raising particular thunder a few yards +away. All this in absolute dependence on the ability of his bwana to +deal with the situation. I can confess very truly that once or twice +that little unobtrusive touch of Memba Sasa crouched close to my elbow +steadied me with the thought of how little right I-with a rifle in +my hand-had to be scared. And the best compliment I ever received I +overheard by chance. I had wounded a lion when out by myself, and +had returned to camp for a heavier rifle and for Memba Sasa to do the +trailing. From my tent I overheard the following conversation between +Memba Sasa and the cook: + +"The grass is high," said the cook. "Are you not afraid to go after a +wounded lion with only one white man?" + +"My one white man is enough," replied Memba Sasa. + +It is a quality of courage that I must confess would be quite beyond +me-to depend entirely on the other fellow, and not at all on myself. +This courage is always remarkable to me, even in the case of the +gunbearer who knows all about the man whose heels he follows. But +consider that of the gunbearer's first experience with a stranger. The +former has no idea of how the white man will act; whether he will get +nervous, get actually panicky, lose his shooting ability, and generally +mess things up. Nevertheless, he follows his master in, and he stands +by. If the hunter fails, the gunbearer will probably die. To me it is +rather fine: for he does it, not from the personal affection and loyalty +which will carry men far, but from a sheer sense of duty and pride of +caste. The quiet pride of the really good men, like Memba Sasa, is easy +to understand. + +And the records are full of stories of the white man who has not made +good: of the coward who bolts, leaving his black man to take the brunt +of it, or who sticks but loses his head. Each new employer must be +very closely and interestedly scrutinized. In the light of subsequent +experience, I can no longer wonder at Memba Sasa's first detached and +impersonal attitude. + +As time went on, however, and we grew to know each other better, this +attitude entirely changed. At first the change consisted merely in +dropping the disinterested pose as respects game. For it was a pose. +Memba Sasa was most keenly interested in game whenever it was an object +of pursuit. It did not matter how common the particular species might +be: if we wanted it, Memba Sasa would look upon it with eager ferocity; +and if we did not want it, he paid no attention to it at all. When we +started in the morning, or in the relaxation of our return at night, I +would mention casually a few of the things that might prove acceptable. + +"To-morrow we want kongoni for boys' meat, or zebra; and some meat for +masters-Tommy, impala, oribi," and Memba Sasa knew as well as I did what +we needed to fill out our trophy collection. When he caught sight of one +of these animals his whole countenance changed. The lines of his face +set, his lips drew back from his teeth, his eyes fairly darted fire in +the fixity of their gaze. He was like a fine pointer dog on birds, or +like the splendid savage he was at heart. + +"M'palla!" he hissed; and then after a second, in a restrained fierce +voice, "Na-ona? Do you see?" + +If I did not see he pointed cautiously. His own eyes never left the +beast. Rarely he stayed put while I made the stalk. More often he glided +like a snake at my heels. If the bullet hit, Memba Sasa always exhaled +a grunt of satisfaction-"hah!"-in which triumph and satisfaction mingled +with a faint derision at the unfortunate beast. In case of a trophy he +squatted anxiously at the animal's head while I took my measurements, +assisting very intelligently with the tape line. When I had finished, he +always looked up at me with wrinkled brow. + +"Footie n'gapi?" he inquired. This means literally, "How many feet?", +footie being his euphemistic invention of a word for the tape. I would +tell him how many "footie" and how many "inchie" the measurement proved +to be. From the depths of his wonderful memory he would dig up the +measurements of another beast of the same sort I had killed months back, +but which he had remembered accurately from a single hearing. + +The shooting of a beast he always detailed to his few cronies in camp: +the other gunbearers, and one or two from his own tribe. He always used +the first person plural, "we" did so and so; and took an inordinate +pride in making out his bwana as being an altogether superior person to +any of the other gunbearer's bwanas. Over a miss he always looked +sad; but with a dignified sadness as though we had met with undeserved +misfortune sent by malignant gods. If there were any possible +alleviating explanation, Memba Sasa made the most of it, provided our +fiasco was witnessed. If we were alone in our disgrace, he buried the +incident fathoms deep. He took an inordinate pride in our using the +minimum number of cartridges, and would explain to me in a loud tone +of voice that we had cartridges enough in the belt. When we had not +cartridges enough, he would sneak around after dark to get some more. At +times he would even surreptitiously "lift" a few from B.'s gunbearer! + +When in camp, with his "cazi" finished, Memba Sasa did fancy work! The +picture of this powerful half-savage, his fierce brows bent over a tiny +piece of linen, his strong fingers fussing with little stitches, will +always appeal to my sense of the incongruous. Through a piece of linen +he punched holes with a porcupine quill. Then he "buttonhole" stitched +the holes, and embroidered patterns between them with fine white thread. +The result was an openwork pattern heavily encrusted with beautiful fine +embroidery. It was most astounding stuff, such as you would expect from +a French convent, perhaps, but never from an African savage. He did a +circular piece and a long narrow piece. They took him three months to +finish, and then he sewed them together to form a skull cap. Billy, +entranced with the lacelike delicacy of the work, promptly captured it; +whereupon Memba Sasa philosophically started another. + +By this time he had identified himself with my fortunes. We had become +a firm whose business it was to carry out the affairs of a single +personality-me. Memba Sasa, among other things, undertook the dignity. +When I walked through a crowd, Memba Sasa zealously kicked everybody out +of my royal path. When I started to issue a command, Memba Sasa finished +it and amplified it and put a snapper on it. When I came into camp, +Memba Sasa saw to it personally that my tent went up promptly and +properly, although that was really not part of his "cazi" at all. And +when somewhere beyond my ken some miserable boy had committed a crime, I +never remained long in ignorance of that fact. + +Perhaps I happened to be sitting in my folding chair idly smoking a +pipe and reading a book. Across the open places of the camp would stride +Memba Sasa, very erect, very rigid, moving in short indignant jerks, +his eye flashing fire. Behind him would sneak a very hang-dog boy. Memba +Sasa marched straight up to me, faced right, and drew one side, his +silence sparkling with honest indignation. + +"Just look at THAT!" his attitude seemed to say, "Could you believe such +human depravity possible? And against OUR authority?" + +He always stood, quite rigid, waiting for me to speak. + +"Well, Memba Sasa?" I would inquire, after I had enjoyed the show a +little. + +In a few restrained words he put the case before me, always briefly, +always with a scornful dignity. This shenzi has done so-and-so. + +We will suppose the case fairly serious. I listened to the man's story, +if necessary called a few witnesses, delivered judgment. All the while +Memba Sasa stood at rigid attention, fairly bristling virtue, like +the good dog standing by at the punishment of the bad dogs. And in his +attitude was a subtle triumph, as one would say: "You see! Fool with my +bwana, will you! Just let anybody try to get funny with US!" Judgment +pronounced-we have supposed the case serious, you remember-Memba Sasa +himself applied the lash. I think he really enjoyed that; but it was a +restrained joy. The whip descended deliberately, without excitement. + +The man's devotion in unusual circumstances was beyond praise. Danger +or excitement incite a sort of loyalty in any good man; but humdrum, +disagreeable difficulty is a different matter. + +One day we marched over a country of thorn-scrub desert. Since two days +we had been cut loose from water, and had been depending on a small +amount carried in zinc drums. Now our only reasons for faring were a +conical hill, over the horizon, and the knowledge of a river somewhere +beyond. How far beyond, or in what direction, we did not know. We had +thirty men with us, a more or less ragtag lot, picked up anyhow in the +bazaars. They were soft, ill-disciplined and uncertain. For five or six +hours they marched well enough. Then the sun began to get very hot, and +some of them began to straggle. They had, of course, no intention of +deserting, for their only hope of surviving lay in staying with us; but +their loads had become heavy, and they took too many rests. We put a +good man behind, but without much avail. In open country a safari can +be permitted to straggle over miles, for always it can keep in touch by +sight; but in this thorn-scrub desert, that looks all alike, a man fifty +yards out of sight is fifty yards lost. We would march fifteen or twenty +minutes, then sit down to wait until the rearmost men had straggled in, +perhaps a half hour later. And we did not dare move on until the tale of +our thirty was complete. At this rate progress was very slow, and as the +fierce equatorial sun increased in strength, became always slower still. +The situation became alarming. We were quite out of water, and we had no +idea where water was to be found. To complicate matters, the thornbrush +thickened to a jungle. + +My single companion and I consulted. It was agreed that I was to push on +as rapidly as possible to locate the water, while he was to try to hold +the caravan together. Accordingly, Memba Sasa and I marched ahead. We +tried to leave a trail to follow; and we hoped fervently that our guess +as to the stream's course would prove to be a good one. At the end +of two hours and a half we found the water-a beautiful jungle-shaded +stream-and filled ourselves up therewith. Our duty was accomplished, for +we had left a trail to be followed. Nevertheless, I felt I should like +to take back our full canteens to relieve the worst cases. Memba Sasa +would not hear of it, and even while I was talking to him seized the +canteens and disappeared. + +At the end of two hours more camp was made, after a fashion; but still +four men had failed to come in. We built a smudge in the hope of guiding +them; and gave them up. If they had followed our trail, they should have +been in long ago; if they had missed that trail, heaven knows where they +were, or where we should go to find them. Dusk was falling, and, to tell +the truth, we were both very much done up by a long day at 115 degrees +in the shade under an equatorial sun. The missing men would climb trees +away from the beasts, and we would organize a search next day. As we +debated these things, to us came Memba Sasa. + +"I want to take 'Winchi,'" said he. "Winchi" is his name for my +Winchester 405. + +"Why?" we asked. + +"If I can take Winchi, I will find the men," said he. + +This was entirely voluntary on his part. He, as well as we, had had a +hard day, and he had made a double journey for part of it. We gave him +Winchi and he departed. Sometime after midnight he returned with the +missing men. + +Perhaps a dozen times all told he volunteered for these special +services; once in particular, after a fourteen-hour day, he set off +at nine o'clock at night in a soaking rainstorm, wandered until two +o'clock, and returned unsuccessful, to rouse me and report gravely +that he could not find them. For these services he neither received nor +expected special reward. And catch him doing anything outside his strict +"cazi" except for US. + +We were always very ceremonious and dignified in our relations on such +occasions. Memba Sasa would suddenly appear, deposit the rifle in its +place, and stand at attention. + +"Well, Memba Sasa?" I would inquire. + +"I have found the men; they are in camp." + +Then I would give him his reward. It was either the word "assanti," or +the two words "assanti sana," according to the difficulty and importance +of the task accomplished. They mean simply "thank you" and "thank you +very much." + +Once or twice, after a particularly long and difficult month or so, when +Memba Sasa has been almost literally my alter ego, I have called him up +for special praise. "I am very pleased with you, Memba Sasa," said I. +"You have done your cazi well. You are a good man." + +He accepted this with dignity, without deprecation, and without the +idiocy of spoken gratitude. He agreed perfectly with everything I +said! "Yes" was his only comment. I liked it. + +On our ultimate success in a difficult enterprise Memba Sasa set great +store; and his delight in ultimate success was apparently quite apart +from personal considerations. We had been hunting greater kudu for five +weeks before we finally landed one. The greater kudu is, with the bongo, +easily the prize beast in East Africa, and very few are shot. By a piece +of bad luck, for him, I had sent Memba Sasa out in a different direction +to look for signs the afternoon we finally got one. The kill was made +just at dusk. C. and I, with Mavrouki, built a fire and stayed, while +Kongoni went to camp after men. There he broke the news to Memba Sasa +that the great prize had been captured, and he absent. Memba Sasa was +hugely delighted, nor did he in any way show what must have been a great +disappointment to him. After repeating the news triumphantly to every +one in camp, he came out to where we were waiting, arrived quite out of +breath, and grabbed me by the hand in heartiest congratulation. + +Memba Sasa went in not at all for personal ornamentation, any more than +he allowed his dignity to be broken by anything resembling emotionalism. +No tattoo marks, no ear ornaments, no rings nor bracelets. He never even +picked up an ostrich feather for his head. On the latter he sometimes +wore an old felt hat; sometimes, more picturesquely, an orange-coloured +fillet. Khaki shirt, khaki "shorts," blue puttees, besides his knife +and my own accoutrements: that was all. In town he was all white clad, a +long fine linen robe reaching to his feet; and one of the lacelike skull +caps he was so very skilful at making. + +That will do for a preliminary sketch. If you follow these pages, you +will hear more of him; he is worth it. + + + + + +VI. THE FIRST GAME CAMP + +In the review of "first" impressions with which we are concerned, we +must now skip a week or ten days to stop at what is known in our diaries +as the First Ford of the Guaso Nyero River. + +These ten days were not uneventful. We had crossed the wide and +undulating plains, had paused at some tall beautiful falls plunging +several hundred feet into the mysteriousness of a dense forest on +which we looked down. There we had enjoyed some duck, goose and snipe +shooting; had made the acquaintance of a few of the Masai, and had +looked with awe on our first hippo tracks in the mud beside a tiny +ditchlike stream. Here and there were small game herds. In the light of +later experience we now realize that these were nothing at all; but at +the time the sight of full-grown wild animals out in plain sight was +quite wonderful. At the close of the day's march we always wandered out +with our rifles to see what we could find. Everything was new to us, +and we had our men to feed. Our shooting gradually improved until we had +overcome the difficulties peculiar to this new country and were doing as +well as we could do anywhere. + +Now, at the end of a hard day through scrub, over rolling bold hills, +and down a scrub brush slope, we had reached the banks of the Guaso +Nyero. + +At this point, above the junction of its principal tributary rivers, +it was a stream about sixty or seventy feet wide, flowing swift between +high banks. A few trees marked its course, but nothing like a jungle. +The ford was in swift water just above a deep still pool suspected +of crocodiles. We found the water about waist deep, stretched a rope +across, and forcibly persuaded our eager boys that one at a time was +about what the situation required. On the other side we made camp on +an open flat. Having marched so far continuously, we resolved to settle +down for a while. The men had been without sufficient meat; and we +desired very much to look over the country closely, and to collect a few +heads as trophies. + +Perhaps a word might not come amiss as to the killing of game. The case +is here quite different from the condition of affairs at home. Here +animal life is most extraordinarily abundant; it furnishes the main food +supply to the traveller; and at present is probably increasing slightly, +certainly holding its own. Whatever toll the sportsman or traveller take +is as nothing compared to what he might take if he were an unscrupulous +game hog. If his cartridges and his shoulder held out, he could easily +kill a hundred animals a day instead of the few he requires. In that +sense, then, no man slaughters indiscriminately. During the course of +a year he probably shoots from two hundred to two hundred and fifty +beasts, provided he is travelling with an ordinary sized caravan. This, +the experts say, is about the annual toll of one lion. If the traveller +gets his lion, he plays even with the fauna of the country; if he +gets two or more lions, he has something to his credit. This probably +explains why the game is still so remarkably abundant near the road and +on the very outskirts of the town. + +We were now much in need of a fair quantity of meat, both for immediate +consumption of our safari, and to make biltong or jerky. Later, in like +circumstances, we should have sallied forth in a businesslike fashion, +dropped the requisite number of zebra and hartebeeste as near camp as +possible, and called it a job. Now, however, being new to the game, we +much desired good trophies in variety. Therefore, we scoured the +country far and wide for desirable heads; and the meat waited upon the +acquisition of the trophy. + +This, then, might be called our first Shooting Camp. Heretofore we had +travelled every day. Now the boys settled down to what the native porter +considers the height of bliss: a permanent camp with plenty to eat. Each +morning we were off before daylight, riding our horses, and followed by +the gunbearers, the syces, and fifteen or twenty porters. The country +rose from the river in a long gentle slope grown with low brush and +scattered candlestick euphorbias. This slope ended in a scattered range +of low rocky buttes. Through any one of the various openings between +them, we rode to find ourselves on the borders of an undulating grass +country of low rounded hills with wide valleys winding between them. In +these valleys and on these hills was the game. + +Daylight of the day I would tell about found us just at the edge of the +little buttes. Down one of the slopes the growing half light revealed +two oryx feeding, magnificent big creatures, with straight rapier horns +three feet in length. These were most exciting and desirable, so off +my horse I got and began to sneak up on them through the low tufts +of grass. They fed quite calmly. I congratulated myself, and slipped +nearer. Without even looking in my direction, they trotted away. +Somewhat chagrined, I returned to my companions, and we rode on. + +Then across a mile-wide valley we saw two dark objects in the tall +grass; and almost immediately identified these as rhinoceroses, the +first we had seen. They stood there side by side, gazing off into space, +doing nothing in a busy morning world. After staring at them through our +glasses for some time, we organized a raid. At the bottom of the valley +we left the horses and porters; lined up, each with his gunbearer at his +elbow; and advanced on the enemy. B. was to have the shot According to +all the books we should have been able, provided we were downwind +and made no noise, to have approached within fifty or sixty yards +undiscovered. However, at a little over a hundred yards they both turned +tail and departed at a swift trot, their heads held well up and their +tails sticking up straight and stiff in the most ridiculous fashion. +No good shooting at them in such circumstances, so we watched them go, +still keeping up their slashing trot, growing smaller and smaller in the +distance until finally they disappeared over the top of a swell. + +We set ourselves methodically to following them. It took us over an hour +of steady plodding before we again came in sight of them. They were this +time nearer the top of a hill, and we saw instantly that the curve of +the slope was such that we could approach within fifty yards before +coming in sight at all. Therefore, once more we dismounted, lined up in +battle array, and advanced. + +Sensations? Distinctly nervous, decidedly alert, and somewhat +self-congratulatory that I was not more scared. No man can predicate how +efficient he is going to be in the presence of really dangerous game. +Only the actual trial will show. This is not a question of courage at +all, but of purely involuntary reaction of the nerves. Very few men are +physical cowards. They will and do face anything. But a great many men +are rendered inefficient by the way their nervous systems act under +stress. It is not a matter for control by will power in the slightest +degree. So the big game hunter must determine by actual trial whether it +so happens that the great excitement of danger renders his hand shaky or +steady. The excitement in either case is the same. No man is ever "cool" +in the sense that personal danger is of the same kind of indifference +to him as clambering aboard a street car. He must always be lifted +above himself, must enter an extra normal condition to meet extra normal +circumstances. He can always control his conduct; but he can by no +means always determine the way the inevitable excitement will affect his +coordinations. And unfortunately, in the final result it does not matter +how brave a man is, but how closely he can hold. If he finds that his +nervous excitement renders him unsteady, he has no business ever to +tackle dangerous game alone. If, on the other hand, he discovers that +IDENTICALLY THE SAME nervous excitement happens to steady his front +sight to rocklike rigidity-a rigidity he could not possibly attain in +normal conditions-then he will probably keep out of trouble. + +To amplify this further by a specific instance: I hunted for a short +time in Africa with a man who was always eager for exciting encounters, +whose pluck was admirable in every way, but whose nervous reaction so +manifested itself that he was utterly unable to do even decent shooting +at any range. Furthermore, his very judgment and power of observation +were so obscured that he could not remember afterward with any accuracy +what had happened-which way the beast was pointing, how many there were +of them, in which direction they went, how many shots were fired, in +short all the smaller details of the affair. He thought he remembered. +After the show was over it was quite amusing to get his version of +the incident. It was almost always so wide of the fact as to be little +recognizable. And, mind you, he was perfectly sincere in his belief, and +absolutely courageous. Only he was quite unfitted by physical make-up +for a big game hunter; and I was relieved when, after a short time, his +route and mine separated. + +Well, we clambered up that slope with a fine compound of tension, +expectation, and latent uneasiness as to just what was going to happen, +anyway. Finally, we raised the backs of the beasts, stooped, sneaked a +little nearer, and finally at a signal stood upright perhaps forty yards +from the brutes. + +For the first time I experienced a sensation I was destined many times +to repeat-that of the sheer size of the animals. Menagerie rhinoceroses +had been of the smaller Indian variety; and in any case most menagerie +beasts are more or less stunted. These two, facing us, their little eyes +blinking, looked like full-grown ironclads on dry land. The moment we +stood erect B. fired at the larger of the two. Instantly they turned and +were off at a tearing run. I opened fire, and B. let loose his second +barrel. At about two hundred and fifty yards the big rhinoceros suddenly +fell on his side, while the other continued his flight. It was all +over-very exciting because we got excited, but not in the least +dangerous. + +The boys were delighted, for here was meat in plenty for everybody. We +measured the beast, photographed him, marvelled at his immense size, and +turned him over to the gunbearers for treatment. In half an hour or so a +long string of porters headed across the hills in the direction of +camp, many miles distant, each carrying his load either of meat, or the +trophies. Rhinoceros hide, properly treated, becomes as transparent as +amber, and so from it can be made many very beautiful souvenirs, such as +bowls, trays, paper knives, table tops, whips, canes, and the like. +And, of course, the feet of one's first rhino are always saved for cigar +boxes or inkstands. + +Already we had an admiring and impatient audience. From all directions +came the carrion birds. They circled far up in the heavens; they shot +downward like plummets from a great height with an inspiring roar of +wings; they stood thick in a solemn circle all around the scene of the +kill; they rose with a heavy flapping when we moved in their direction. +Skulking forms flashed in the grass, and occasionally the pointed ears +of a jackal would rise inquiringly. + +It was by now nearly noon. The sun shone clear and hot; the heat shimmer +rose in clouds from the brown surface of the hills. In all directions +we could make out small gameherds resting motionless in the heat of the +day, the mirage throwing them into fantastic shapes. While the final +disposition was being made of the defunct rhinoceros I wandered over the +edge of the hill to see what I could see, and fairly blundered on a herd +of oryx at about a hundred and fifty yards range. They looked at me a +startled instant, then leaped away to the left at a tremendous speed. +By a lucky shot, I bowled one over. He was a beautiful beast, with his +black and white face and his straight rapierlike horns nearly three feet +long, and I was most pleased to get him. Memba Sasa came running at the +sound of the shot. We set about preparing the head. + +Then through a gap in the hills far to the left we saw a little black +speck moving rapidly in our direction. At the end of a minute we could +make it out as the second rhinoceros. He had run heaven knows how +many miles away, and now he was returning; whether with some idea of +rejoining his companion or from sheer chance, I do not know. At any +rate, here he was, still ploughing along at his swinging trot. His +course led him along a side hill about four hundred yards from where +the oryx lay. When he was directly opposite I took the Springfield and +fired, not at him, but at a spot five or six feet in front of his +nose. The bullet threw up a column of dust. Rhino brought up short with +astonishment, wheeled to the left, and made off at a gallop. I dropped +another bullet in front of him. Again he stopped, changed direction, and +made off. For the third time I hit the ground in front of him. Then he +got angry, put his head down and charged the spot. + +Five more shots I expended on the amusement of that rhinoceros; and +at the last had run furiously charging back and forth in a twenty-yard +space, very angry at the little puffing, screeching bullets, but quite +unable to catch one. Then he made up his mind and departed the way he +had come, finally disappearing as a little rapidly moving black speck +through the gap in the hills where we had first caught sight of him. + +We finished caring for the oryx, and returned to camp. To our surprise +we found we were at least seven or eight miles out. + +In this fashion days passed very quickly. The early dewy start in the +cool of the morning, the gradual grateful warming up of sunrise, and +immediately after, the rest during the midday heats under a shady tree, +the long trek back to camp at sunset, the hot bath after the toilsome +day-all these were very pleasant. Then the swift falling night, and the +gleam of many tiny fires springing up out of the darkness; with each its +sticks full of meat roasting, and its little circle of men, their skins +gleaming in the light. As we sat smoking, we would become aware that +M'ganga, the headman, was standing silent awaiting orders. Some one +would happen to see the white of his eyes, or perhaps he might smile so +that his teeth would become visible. Otherwise he might stand there an +hour, and no one the wiser, for he was respectfully silent, and exactly +the colour of the night. + +We would indicate to him our plans for the morrow, and he would +disappear. Then at a distance of twenty or thirty feet from the front +of our tents a tiny tongue of flame would lick up. Dark figures could be +seen manipulating wood. A blazing fire sprang up, against which we could +see the motionless and picturesque figure of Saa-sita (Six o'Clock), the +askari of the first night watch, leaning on his musket. He was a most +picturesque figure, for his fancy ran to original headdresses, and at +the moment he affected a wonderful upstanding structure made of marabout +wings. + +At this sign that the night had begun, we turned in. A few hyenas +moaned, a few jackals barked: otherwise the first part of the night was +silent, for the hunters were at their silent business, and the hunted +were "layin' low and sayin' nuffin'." + +Day after day we rode out, exploring the country in different +directions. The great uncertainty as to what of interest we would find +filled the hours with charm. Sometimes we clambered about the cliffs of +the buttes trying to find klipspringers; again we ran miles pursuing the +gigantic eland. I in turn got my first rhinoceros, with no more danger +than had attended the killing of B.'s. On this occasion, however, I had +my first experience of the lightning skill of the first-class gunbearer. +Having fired both barrels, and staggered the beast, I threw open the +breech and withdrew the empty cartridges, intending, of course, as my +next move to fish two more out of my belt. The empty shells were hardly +away from the chambers, however, when a long brown arm shot over +my right shoulder and popped two fresh cartridges in the breech. So +astonished was I at this unexpected apparition, that for a second or so +I actually forgot to close the gun. + + + + + +VII. ON THE MARCH + +After leaving the First Game Camp, we travelled many hours and miles +over rolling hills piling ever higher and higher until they broke +through a pass to illimitable plains. These plains were mantled with the +dense scrub, looking from a distance and from above like the nap of soft +green velvet. Here and there this scrub broke in round or oval patches +of grass plain. Great mountain ranges peered over the edge of a horizon. +Lesser mountain peaks of fantastic shapes-sheer Yosemite cliffs, single +buttes, castles-had ventured singly from behind that same horizon +barricade. The course of a river was marked by a meandering line of +green jungle. + +It took us two days to get to that river. Our intermediate camp was +halfway down the pass. We ousted a hundred indignant straw-coloured +monkeys and twice as many baboons from the tiny flat above the water +hole. They bobbed away cursing over their shoulders at us. Next day we +debouched on the plains. They were rolling, densely grown, covered with +volcanic stones, swarming with game of various sorts. The men marched +well. They were happy, for they had had a week of meat; and each carried +a light lunch of sun-dried biltong or jerky. Some mistaken individuals +had attempted to bring along some "fresh" meat. We found it advisable to +pass to windward of these; but they themselves did not seem to mind. + +It became very hot; for we were now descending to the lower elevations. +The marching through long grass and over volcanic stones was not easy. +Shortly we came out on stumbly hills, mostly rock, very dry, grown with +cactus and discouraged desiccated thorn scrub. Here the sun reflected +powerfully and the bearers began to flag. + +Then suddenly, without warning, we pitched over a little rise to the +river. + +No more marvellous contrast could have been devised. From the blasted +barren scrub country we plunged into the lush jungle. It was not a very +wide jungle, but it was sufficient. The trees were large and variegated, +reaching to a high and spacious upper story above the ground tangle. +From the massive limbs hung vines, festooned and looped like great +serpents. Through this upper corridor flitted birds of bright hue or +striking variegation. We did not know many of them by name, nor did +we desire to; but were content with the impression of vivid flashing +movement and colour. Various monkeys swung, leaped and galloped slowly +away before our advance; pausing to look back at us curiously, the ruffs +of fur standing out all around their little black faces. The lower half +of the forest jungle, however, had no spaciousness at all, but a certain +breathless intimacy. Great leaved plants as tall as little trees, and +trees as small as big plants, bound together by vines, made up the "deep +impenetrable jungle" of our childhood imagining. Here were rustlings, +sudden scurryings, half-caught glimpses, once or twice a crash as some +greater animal made off. Here and there through the thicket wandered +well beaten trails, wide, but low, so that to follow them one would have +to bend double. These were the paths of rhinoceroses. The air smelt warm +and moist and earthy, like the odour of a greenhouse. + +We skirted this jungle until it gave way to let the plain down to the +river. Then, in an open grove of acacias, and fairly on the river's +bank, we pitched our tents. + +These acacia trees were very noble big chaps, with many branches and a +thick shade. In their season they are wonderfully blossomed with white, +with yellow, sometimes even with vivid red flowers. Beneath them was +only a small matter of ferns to clear away. + +Before us the sodded bank rounded off ten feet the river itself. At this +point far up in its youth it was a friendly river. Its noble width ran +over shallows of yellow sand or of small pebbles. Save for unexpected +deep holes one could wade across it anywhere. Yet it was very wide, with +still reaches of water, with islands of gigantic papyrus, with sand bars +dividing the current, and with always the vista for a greater or lesser +distance down through the jungle along its banks. From our canvas chairs +we could look through on one side to the arid country, and on the other +to this tropical wonderland. + +Yes, at this point in its youth it was indeed a friendly river in every +sense of the word. There are three reasons, ordinarily, why one cannot +bathe in the African rivers. In the first place, they are nearly all +disagreeably muddy; in the second place, cold water in a tropical +climate causes horrible congestions; in the third place they swarm +with crocodiles and hippos. But this river was as yet unpolluted by the +alluvial soil of the lower countries; the sun on its shallows had warmed +its waters almost to blood heat; and the beasts found no congenial +haunts in these clear shoals. Almost before our tents were up the men +were splashing. And always my mental image of that river's beautiful +expanse must include round black heads floating like gourds where the +water ran smoothest. + +Our tents stood all in a row facing the stream, the great trees at +their backs. Down in the grove the men had pitched their little white +shelters. Happily they settled down to ease. Settling down to ease, in +the case of the African porter, consists in discarding as many clothes +as possible. While on the march he wears everything he owns; whether +from pride or a desire to simplify transportation I am unable to say. He +is supplied by his employer with a blanket and jersey. As supplementals +he can generally produce a half dozen white man's ill-assorted garments: +an old shooting coat, a ragged pair of khaki breeches, a kitchen +tablecloth for a skirt, or something of the sort. If he can raise an +overcoat he is happy, especially if it happen to be a long, thick WINTER +overcoat. The possessor of such a garment will wear it conscientiously +throughout the longest journey and during the hottest noons. But when he +relaxes in camp, he puts away all these prideful possessions and turns +out in the savage simplicity of his red blanket. Draped negligently, +sometimes very negligently, in what may be termed semi-toga fashion, +he stalks about or squats before his little fire in all the glory of a +regained savagery. The contrast of the red with his red bronze or black +skin, the freedom and grace of his movements, the upright carriage of +his fine figure, and the flickering savagery playing in his eyes are +very effective. + +Our men occupied their leisure variously and happily. A great deal of +time they spent before their tiny fires roasting meat and talking. This +talk was almost invariably of specific personal experiences. They bathed +frequently and with pleasure. They slept. Between times they fashioned +ingenious affairs of ornament or use: bows and arrows, throwing clubs, +snuff-boxes of the tips of antelope horns, bound prettily with bright +wire, wooden swords beautifully carved in exact imitation of the +white man's service weapon, and a hundred other such affairs. At this +particular time also they were much occupied in making sandals against +the thorns. These were flat soles of rawhide, the edges pounded to make +them curl up a trifle over the foot, fastened by thongs; very ingenious, +and very useful. To their task they brought song. The labour of Africa +is done to song; weird minor chanting starting high in the falsetto to +trickle unevenly down to the lower registers, or where the matter is one +of serious effort, an antiphony of solo and chorus. From all parts +of the camp come these softly modulated chantings, low and sweet, +occasionally breaking into full voice as the inner occasion swells, +then almost immediately falling again to the murmuring undertone of more +concentrated attention. + +The red blanket was generally worn knotted from one shoulder or bound +around the waist Malay fashion. When it turned into a cowl, with a +miserable and humpbacked expression, it became the Official Badge of +Illness. No matter what was the matter that was the proper thing to +do-to throw the blanket over the head and to assume as miserable a +demeanour as possible. A sore toe demanded just as much concentrated +woe as a case of pneumonia. Sick call was cried after the day's work was +finished. Then M'ganga or one of the askaris lifted up his voice. + +"N'gonjwa! n'gonjwa!" he shouted; and at the shout the red cowls +gathered in front of the tent. Three things were likely to be the +matter: too much meat, fever, or pus infection from slight wounds. To +these in the rainy season would be added the various sorts of colds. +That meant either Epsom salts, quinine, or a little excursion with +the lancet and permanganate. The African traveller gets to be heap big +medicine man within these narrow limits. + +All the red cowls squatted miserably, oh, very miserably, in a row. +The headman stood over them rather fiercely. We surveyed the lot +contemplatively, hoping to heaven that nothing complicated was going to +turn up. One of the tent boys hovered in the background as dispensing +chemist. + +"Well," said F. at last, "what's the matter with you?" + +The man indicated pointed to his head and the back of his neck and +groaned. If he had a slight headache he groaned just as much as +though his head were splitting. F. asked a few questions, and took +his temperature. The clinical thermometer is in itself considered big +medicine, and often does much good. + +"Too much meat, my friend," remarked F. in English, and to his boy in +Swahili, "bring the cup." + +He put in this cup a triple dose of Epsom salts. The African requires +three times a white man's dose. This, pathologically, was all that was +required: but psychologically the job was just begun. Your African can +do wonderful things with his imagination. If he thinks he is going to +die, die he will, and very promptly, even though he is ailing of the +most trivial complaint. If he thinks he is going to get well, he is +very apt to do so in face of extraordinary odds. Therefore the white +man desires not only to start his patient's internal economy with Epsom +salts, but also to stir his faith. To this end F. added to that triple +dose of medicine a spoonful of Chutney, one of Worcestershire sauce, +a few grains of quinine, Sparklets water and a crystal or so of +permanganate to turn the mixture a beautiful pink. This assortment the +patient drank with gratitude-and the tears running down his cheeks. + +"He will carry a load to-morrow," F. told the attentive M'ganga. + +The next patient had fever. This one got twenty grains of quinine in +water. + +"This man carries no load to-morrow," was the direction, "but he must +not drop behind." + +Two or three surgical cases followed. Then a big Kavirondo rose to his +feet. + +"Nini?" demanded F. + +"Homa-fever," whined the man. + +F. clapped his hand on the back of the other's neck. + +"I think," he remarked contemplatively in English, "that you're a liar, +and want to get out of carrying your load." + +The clinical thermometer showed no evidence of temperature. + +"I'm pretty near sure you're a liar," observed F. in the pleasantest +conversational tone and still in English, "but you may be merely a poor +diagnostician. Perhaps your poor insides couldn't get away with that +rotten meat I saw you lugging around. We'll see." + +So he mixed a pint of medicine. + +"There's Epsom salts for the real part of trouble," observed F., still +talking to himself, "and here's a few things for the fake." + +He then proceeded to concoct a mixture whose recoil was the exact +measure of his imagination. The imagination was only limited by the +necessity of keeping the mixture harmless. Every hot, biting, nauseous +horror in camp went into that pint measure. + +"There," concluded F., "if you drink that and come back again to-morrow +for treatment, I'll believe you ARE sick." + +Without undue pride I would like to record that I was the first to think +of putting in a peculiarly nauseous gun oil, and thereby acquired a +reputation of making tremendous medicine. + +So implicit is this faith in white man's medicine that at one of the +Government posts we were approached by one of the secondary chiefs of +the district. He was a very nifty savage, dressed for calling, with his +hair done in ropes like a French poodle's, his skin carefully oiled and +reddened, his armlets and necklets polished, and with the ceremonial +ball of black feathers on the end of his long spear. His gait was the +peculiar mincing teeter of savage conventional society. According to +custom, he approached unsmiling, spat carefully in his palm, and shook +hands. Then he squatted and waited. + +"What is it?" we asked after it became evident he really wanted +something besides the pleasure of our company. + +"N'dowa-medicine," said he. + +"Why do you not go the Government dispensary?" we demanded. + +"The doctor there is an Indian; I want REAL medicine, white man's +medicine," he explained. + +Immensely flattered, of course, we wanted further to know what ailed +him. + +"Nothing," said he blandly, "nothing at all; but it seemed an excellent +chance to get good medicine." + +After the clinic was all attended to, we retired to our tents and the +screeching-hot bath so grateful in the tropics. When we emerged, in +our mosquito boots and pajamas, the daylight was gone. Scores of little +blazes licked and leaped in the velvet blackness round about, casting +the undergrowth and the lower branches of the trees into flat planes +like the cardboard of a stage setting. Cheerful, squatted figures sat in +silhouette or in the relief of chance high light. Long switches of +meat roasted before the fires. A hum of talk, bursts of laughter, the +crooning of minor chants mingled with the crackling of thorns. Before +our tents stood the table set for supper. Beyond it lay the pile of +firewood, later to be burned on the altar of our safety against beasts. +The moonlight was casting milky shadows over the river and under the +trees opposite. In those shadows gleamed many fireflies. Overhead were +millions of stars, and a little breeze that wandered through upper +branches. + +But in Equatorial Africa the simple bands of velvet black, against the +spangled brightnesses that make up the visual night world, must give way +in interest to the other world of sound. The air hums with an undertone +of insects; the plain and hill and jungle are populous with voices +furtive or bold. In daytime one sees animals enough, in all conscience, +but only at night does he sense the almost oppressive feeling of the +teeming life about him. The darkness is peopled. Zebra bark, bucks blow +or snort or make the weird noises of their respective species; hyenas +howl; out of an immense simian silence a group of monkeys suddenly break +into chatterings; ostriches utter their deep hollow boom; small things +scurry and squeak; a certain weird bird of the curlew or plover sort +wails like a lonesome soul. Especially by the river, as here, are the +boomings of the weirdest of weird bullfrogs, and the splashings and +swishings of crocodile and hippopotamus. One is impressed with the +busyness of the world surrounding him; every bird or beast, the hunter +and the hunted, is the centre of many important affairs. The world +swarms. + +And then, some miles away a lion roars, the earth and air vibrating to +the sheer power of the sound. The world falls to a blank dead silence. +For a full minute every living creature of the jungle or of the veldt +holds its breath. Their lord has spoken. + +After dinner we sat in our canvas chairs, smoking. The guard fire in +front of our tent had been lit. On the other side of it stood one of our +askaris leaning on his musket. He and his three companions, turn about, +keep the flames bright against the fiercer creatures. + +After a time we grew sleepy. I called Saa-sita and entrusted to him my +watch. On the crystal of this I had pasted a small piece of surgeon's +plaster. When the hour hand reached the surgeon's plaster, he must wake +us up. Saa-sita was a very conscientious and careful man. One day I took +some time hitching my pedometer properly to his belt: I could not wear +it effectively myself because I was on horseback. At the end of the +ten-hour march it registered a mile and a fraction. Saa-sita explained +that he wished to take especial care of it, so he had wrapped it in a +cloth and carried it all day in his hand! + +We turned in. As I reached over to extinguish the lantern I issued my +last command for the day. + +"Watcha kalele, Saa-sita," I told the askari; at once he lifted up +his voice to repeat my words. "Watcha kalele!" Immediately from the +Responsible all over camp the word came back-from gunbearers, from +M'ganga, from tent boys-"kalele! kalele! kalele!" + +Thus commanded, the boisterous fun, the croon of intimate talk, the +gently rising and falling tide of melody fell to complete silence. Only +remained the crackling of the fire and the innumerable voices of the +tropical night. + + + + + +VIII. THE RIVER JUNGLE + +We camped along this river for several weeks, poking indefinitely and +happily around the country in all directions to see what we could see. +Generally we went together, for neither B. nor myself had been tried out +as yet on dangerous game-those easy rhinos hardly counted-and I think we +both preferred to feel that we had backing until we knew what our nerves +were going to do with us. Nevertheless, occasionally, I would take Memba +Sasa and go out for a little purposeless stroll a few miles up or down +river. Sometimes we skirted the jungle, sometimes we held as near as +possible to the river's bank, sometimes we cut loose and rambled through +the dry, crackling scrub over the low volcanic hills of the arid country +outside. + +Nothing can equal the intense interest of the most ordinary walk in +Africa. It is the only country I know of where a man is thoroughly and +continuously alive. Often when riding horseback with the dogs in my +California home I have watched them in envy of the keen, alert interest +they took in every stone, stick, and bush, in every sight, sound, and +smell. With equal frequency I have expressed that envy, but as something +unattainable to a human being's more phlegmatic make-up. In Africa one +actually rises to continuous alertness. There are dozy moments-except +you curl up in a safe place for the PURPOSE of dozing; again just like +the dog! Every bush, every hollow, every high tuft of grass, every deep +shadow must be scrutinized for danger. It will not do to pass carelessly +any possible lurking place. At the same time the sense of hearing +must be on guard; so that no break of twig or crash of bough can go +unremarked. Rhinoceroses conceal themselves most cannily, and have a +deceitful habit of leaping from a nap into their swiftest stride. Cobras +and puff adders are scarce, to be sure, but very deadly. Lions will +generally give way, if not shot at or too closely pressed; nevertheless +there is always the chance of cubs or too close a surprise. Buffalo lurk +daytimes in the deep thickets, but occasionally a rogue bull lives where +your trail will lead. These things do not happen often, but in the long +run they surely do happen, and once is quite enough provided the beast +gets in. + +At first this continual alertness and tension is rather exhausting; but +after a very short time it becomes second nature. A sudden rustle the +other side a bush no longer brings you up all standing with your heart +in your throat; but you are aware of it, and you are facing the possible +danger almost before your slower brain has issued any orders to that +effect. + +In rereading the above, I am afraid that I am conveying the idea that +one here walks under the shadow of continual uneasiness. This is not in +the least so. One enjoys the sun, and the birds and the little things. +He cultivates the great leisure of mind that shall fill the breadth of +his outlook abroad over a newly wonderful world. But underneath it all +is the alertness, the responsiveness to quick reflexes of judgment and +action, the intimate correlations to immediate environment which must +characterize the instincts of the higher animals. And it is good to live +these things. + +Along the edge of that river jungle were many strange and beautiful +affairs. I could slip along among the high clumps of the thicker bushes +in such a manner as to be continually coming around unexpected bends. Of +such maneouvres are surprises made. The graceful red impalla were here +very abundant. I would come on them, their heads up, their great ears +flung forward, their noses twitching in inquiry of something they +suspected but could not fully sense. When slightly alarmed or suspicious +the does always stood compactly in a herd, while the bucks remained +discreetly in the background, their beautiful, branching, widespread +horns showing over the backs of their harems. The impalla is, in my +opinion, one of the most beautiful and graceful of the African bucks, a +perpetual delight to watch either standing or running. These beasts are +extraordinarily agile, and have a habit of breaking their ordinary fast +run by unexpectedly leaping high in the air. At a distance they give +somewhat the effect of dolphins at sea, only their leaps are higher and +more nearly perpendicular. Once or twice I have even seen one jump over +the back of another. On another occasion we saw a herd of twenty-five or +thirty cross a road of which, evidently, they were a little suspicious. +We could not find a single hoof mark in the dust! Generally these beasts +frequent thin brush country; but I have three or four times seen them +quite out in the open flat plains, feeding with the hartebeeste and +zebra. They are about the size of our ordinary deer, are delicately +fashioned, and can utter the most incongruously grotesque of noises by +way of calls or ordinary conversation. + +The lack of curiosity, or the lack of gallantry, of the impalla bucks +was, in my experience, quite characteristic. They were almost always the +farthest in the background and the first away when danger threatened. +The ladies could look out for themselves. They had no horns to save; +and what do the fool women mean by showing so little sense, anyway! They +deserve what they get! It used to amuse me a lot to observe the utter +abandonment of all responsibility by these handsome gentlemen. When it +came time to depart, they departed. Hang the girls! They trailed along +after as fast as they could. + +The waterbuck-a fine large beast about the size of our caribou, a +well-conditioned buck resembling in form and attitude the finest +of Landseer's stags-on the other hand, had a little more sense of +responsibility, when he had anything to do with the sex at all. He was +hardly what you might call a strictly domestic character. I have hunted +through a country for several days at a time without seeing a single +mature buck of this species, although there were plenty of does, in +herds of ten to fifty, with a few infants among them just sprouting +horns. Then finally, in some small grassy valley, I would come on the +Men's Club. There they were, ten, twenty, three dozen of them, having +the finest kind of an untramelled masculine time all by themselves. +Generally, however, I will say for them, they took care of their own +peoples. There would quite likely be one big old fellow, his harem of +varying numbers, and the younger subordinate bucks all together in a +happy family. When some one of the lot announced that something was +about, and they had all lined up to stare in the suspected direction, +the big buck was there in the foreground of inquiry. When finally they +made me out, it was generally the big buck who gave the signal. He +went first, to be sure, but his going first was evidently an act of +leadership, and not merely a disgraceful desire to get away before the +rest did. + +But the waterbuck had to yield in turn to the plains +gazelles; especially to the Thompson's gazelle, familiarly-and +affectionately-known as the "Tommy." He is a quaint little chap, +standing only a foot and a half tall at the shoulder, fawn colour on +top, white beneath, with a black, horizontal stripe on his side, like +a chipmunk, most lightly and gracefully built. When he was first made, +somebody told him that unless he did something characteristic, +like waggling his little tail, he was likely to be mistaken by the +undiscriminating for his bigger cousin, the Grant's gazelle. He has +waggled his tail ever since, and so is almost never mistaken for a +Grant's gazelle, even by the undiscriminating. Evidently his religion is +Mohammedan, for he always has a great many wives. He takes good care of +them, however. When danger appears, even when danger threatens, he +is the last to leave the field. Here and there he dashes frantically, +seeing that the women and children get off. And when the herd tops the +hill, Tommy's little horns bring up the rear of the procession. I like +Tommy. He is a cheerful, gallant, quaint little person, with the air of +being quite satisfied with his own solution of this complicated world. + +Among the low brush at the edge of the river jungle dwelt also the +dik-dik, the tiniest miniature of a deer you could possibly imagine. +His legs are lead pencil size, he stands only about nine inches tall, he +weighs from five to ten pounds; and yet he is a perfect little antelope, +horns and all. I used to see him singly or in pairs standing quite +motionless and all but invisible in the shade of bushes; or leaping +suddenly to his feet and scurrying away like mad through the dry grass. +His personal opinion of me was generally expressed in a loud clear +whistle. But then nobody in this strange country talks the language you +would naturally expect him to talk! Zebra bark, hyenas laugh, impallas +grunt, ostriches boom like drums, leopards utter a plaintive sigh, +hornbills cry like a stage child, bushbucks sound like a cross between +a dog and a squawky toy-and so on. There is only one safe rule of the +novice in Africa: NEVER BELIEVE A WORD THE JUNGLE AND VELDT PEOPLE TELL +YOU. + +These two-the impalla and the waterbuck-were the principal buck we would +see close to the river. Occasionally, however, we came on a few oryx, +down for a drink, beautiful big antelope, with white and black faces, +roached manes, and straight, nearly parallel, rapier horns upward of +three feet long. A herd of these creatures, the light gleaming on their +weapons, held all at the same slant, was like a regiment of bayonets in +the sun. And there were also the rhinoceroses to be carefully espied +and avoided. They lay obliterated beneath the shade of bushes, and arose +with a mighty blow-off of steam. Whereupon we withdrew silently, for we +wanted to shoot no more rhinos, unless we had to. + +Beneath all these obvious and startling things, a thousand other +interesting matters were afoot. In the mass and texture of the jungle +grew many strange trees and shrubs. One most scrubby, fat and leafless +tree, looking as though it were just about to give up a discouraged +existence, surprised us by putting forth, apparently directly from +its bloated wood, the most wonderful red blossoms. Another otherwise +self-respecting tree hung itself all over with plump bologna sausages +about two feet long and five inches thick. A curious vine hung like a +rope, with Turk's-head knots about a foot apart on its whole length, +like the hand-over-hand ropes of gymnasiums. Other ropes were studded +all over with thick blunt bosses, resembling much the outbreak on one +sort of Arts-and-Crafts door: the sort intended to repel Mail-clad +Hosts. + +The monkeys undoubtedly used such obvious highways through the trees. +These little people were very common. As we walked along, they withdrew +before us. We could make out their figures galloping hastily across the +open places, mounting bushes and stubs to take a satisfying backward +look, clambering to treetops, and launching themselves across the +abysses between limbs. If we went slowly, they retired in silence. If +we hurried at all, they protested in direct ratio to the speed of +our advance. And when later the whole safari, loads on heads, marched +inconsiderately through their jungle! We happened to be hunting on a +parallel course a half mile away, and we could trace accurately the +progress of our men by the outraged shrieks, chatterings, appeals to +high heaven for at least elemental justice to the monkey people. + +Often, too, we would come on concourses of the big baboons. They +certainly carried on weighty affairs of their own according to a fixed +polity. I never got well enough acquainted with them to master the +details of their government, but it was indubitably built on patriarchal +lines. When we succeeded in approaching without being discovered, we +would frequently find the old men baboons squatting on their heels in a +perfect circle, evidently discussing matters of weight and portent. Seen +from a distance, their group so much resembled the council circles +of native warriors that sometimes, in a native country, we made that +mistake. Outside this solemn council, the women, young men and children +went about their daily business, whatever that was. Up convenient low +trees or bushes roosted sentinels. + +We never remained long undiscovered. One of the sentinels barked +sharply. At once the whole lot loped away, speedily but with a curious +effect of deliberation. The men folks held their tails in a proud high +sideways arch; the curious youngsters clambered up bushes to take a +hasty look; the babies clung desperately with all four feet to the thick +fur on their mothers' backs; the mothers galloped along imperturbably +unheeding of infantile troubles aloft. The side hill was bewildering +with the big bobbing black forms. + +In this lower country the weather was hot, and the sun very strong. The +heated air was full of the sounds of insects; some of them comfortable, +like the buzzing of bees, some of them strange and unusual to us. One +cicada had a sustained note, in quality about like that of our own +August-day's friend, but in quantity and duration as the roar of a train +to the gentle hum of a good motor car. Like all cicada noises it did not +usurp the sound world, but constituted itself an underlying basis, so +to speak. And when it stopped the silence seemed to rush in as into a +vacuum! + +We had likewise the aeroplane beetle. He was so big that he would have +made good wing-shooting. His manner of flight was the straight-ahead, +heap-of-buzz, plenty-busy, don't-stop-a-minute-or-you'll-come-down +method of the aeroplane; and he made the same sort of a hum. His +first-cousin, mechanically, was what we called the wind-up-the-watch +insect. This specimen possessed a watch-an old-fashioned Waterbury, +evidently-that he was continually winding. It must have been hard work +for the poor chap, for it sounded like a very big watch. + +All these things were amusing. So were the birds. The African bird is +quite inclined to be didactic. He believes you need advice, and he means +to give it. To this end he repeats the same thing over and over until +he thinks you surely cannot misunderstand. One chap especially whom we +called the lawyer bird, and who lived in the treetops, had four phrases +to impart. He said them very deliberately, with due pause between each; +then he repeated them rapidly; finally he said them all over again with +an exasperated bearing-down emphasis. The joke of it is I cannot now +remember just how they went! Another feathered pedagogue was continually +warning us to go slow; very good advice near an African jungle. +"Poley-poley! Poley-poley!" he warned again and again; which is good +Swahili for "slowly! slowly!" We always minded him. There were many +others, equally impressed with their own wisdom, but the one I remember +with most amusement was a dilatory person who apparently never got +around to his job until near sunset. Evidently he had contracted to +deliver just so many warnings per diem; and invariably he got so busy +chasing insects, enjoying the sun, gossiping with a friend and generally +footling about that the late afternoon caught him unawares with never a +chirp accomplished. So he sat in a bush and said his say over and over +just as fast as he could without pause for breath or recreation. It was +really quite a feat. Just at dusk, after two hours of gabbling, he would +reach the end of his contracted number. With final relieved chirp he +ended. + +It has been said that African birds are "songless." This is a careless +statement that can easily be read to mean that African birds are silent. +The writer evidently must have had in mind as a criterion some of our +own or the English great feathered soloists. Certainly the African +jungle seems to produce no individual performers as sustained as our own +bob-o-link, our hermit thrush, or even our common robin. But the African +birds are vocal enough, for all that. Some of them have a richness and +depth of timbre perhaps unequalled elsewhere. Of such is the chime-bird +with his deep double note; or the bell-bird tolling like a cathedral in +the blackness of the forest; or the bottle bird that apparently pours +gurgling liquid gold from a silver jug. As the jungle is exceedingly +populous of these feathered specialists, it follows that the early +morning chorus is wonderful. Africa may not possess the soloists, but +its full orchestrial effects are superb. + +Naturally under the equator one expects and demands the "gorgeous +tropical plumage" of the books. He is not disappointed. The sun-birds +of fifty odd species, the brilliant blue starlings, the various parrots, +the variegated hornbills, the widower-birds, and dozens of others whose +names would mean nothing flash here and there in the shadow and in the +open. With them are hundreds of quiet little bodies just as interesting +to one who likes birds. From the trees and bushes hang pear-shaped +nests plaited beautifully of long grasses, hard and smooth as hand-made +baskets, the work of the various sorts of weaver-birds. In the tops of +the trees roosted tall marabout storks like dissipated, hairless old +club-men in well-groomed, correct evening dress. + +And around camp gathered the swift brown kites. They were robbers and +villains, but we could not hate them. All day long they sailed back +and forth spying sharply. When they thought they saw their chance, they +stooped with incredible swiftness to seize a piece of meat. Sometimes +they would snatch their prize almost from the hands of its rightful +owner, and would swoop triumphantly upward again pursued by polyglot +maledictions and a throwing stick. They were very skilful on their +wings. I have many times seen them, while flying, tear up and devour +large chunks of meat. It seems to my inexperience as an aviator rather a +nice feat to keep your balance while tearing with your beak at meat held +in your talons. Regardless of other landmarks, we always knew when we +were nearing camp, after one of our strolls, by the gracefully wheeling +figures of our kites. + + + + + +IX. THE FIRST LION + +One day we all set out to make our discoveries: F., B., and I with our +gunbearers, Memba Sasa, Mavrouki, and Simba, and ten porters to bring +in the trophies, which we wanted very much, and the meat, which the men +wanted still more. We rode our horses, and the syces followed. This made +quite a field force-nineteen men all told. Nineteen white men would be +exceedingly unlikely to get within a liberal half mile of anything; but +the native has sneaky ways. + +At first we followed between the river and the low hills, but when the +latter drew back to leave open a broad flat, we followed their line. At +this point they rose to a clifflike headland a hundred and fifty feet +high, flat on top. We decided to investigate that mesa, both for the +possibilities of game, and for the chance of a view abroad. + +The footing was exceedingly noisy and treacherous, for it was composed +of flat, tinkling little stones. Dried-up, skimpy bushes just higher +than our heads made a thin but regular cover. There seemed not to be a +spear of anything edible, yet we caught the flash of red as a herd of +impalla melted away at our rather noisy approach. Near the foot of the +hill we dismounted, with orders to all the men but the gunbearers to +sit down and make themselves comfortable. Should we need them we could +easily either signal or send word. Then we set ourselves toilsomely to +clamber up that volcanic hill. + +It was not particularly easy going, especially as we were trying to walk +quietly. You see, we were about to surmount a skyline. Surmounting a +skyline is always most exciting anywhere, for what lies beyond is at +once revealed as a whole and contains the very essence of the unknown; +but most decidedly is this true in Africa. That mesa looked flat, and +almost anything might be grazing or browsing there. So we proceeded +gingerly, with due regard to the rolling of the loose rocks or the +tinkling of the little pebbles. + +But long before we had reached that alluring skyline we were halted by +the gentle snapping of Mavrouki's fingers. That, strangely enough, is a +sound to which wild animals seem to pay no attention, and is therefore +most useful as a signal. We looked back. The three gunbearers were +staring to the right of our course. About a hundred yards away, on +the steep side hill, and partly concealed by the brush, stood two +rhinoceroses. + +They were side by side, apparently dozing. We squatted on our heels for +a consultation. + +The obvious thing, as the wind was from them, was to sneak quietly by, +saying nuffin' to nobody. But although we wanted no more rhino, we very +much wanted rhino pictures. A discussion developed no really good reason +why we should not kodak these especial rhinos-except that there were two +of them. So we began to worm our way quietly through the bushes in their +direction. + +F. and B. deployed on the flanks, their double-barrelled rifles ready +for instant action. I occupied the middle with that dangerous weapon the +3A kodak. Memba Sasa followed at my elbow, holding my big gun. + +Now the trouble with modern photography is that it is altogether too +lavish in its depiction of distances. If you do not believe it, take a +picture of a horse at as short a range as twenty-five yards. That equine +will, in the development, have receded to a respectable middle distance. +Therefore it had been agreed that the advance of the battle line was +to cease only when those rhinoceroses loomed up reasonably large in +the finder. I kept looking into the finder, you may be sure. Nearer and +nearer we crept. The great beasts were evidently basking in the sun. +Their little pig eyes alone gave any sign of life. Otherwise they +exhibited the complete immobility of something done in granite. Probably +no other beast impresses one with quite this quality. I suppose it is +because even the little motions peculiar to other animals are with +the rhinoceros entirely lacking. He is not in the least of a nervous +disposition, so he does not stamp his feet nor change his position. It +is useless for him to wag his tail; for, in the first place, the tail is +absurdly inadequate; and, in the second place, flies are not among his +troubles. Flies wouldn't bother you either, if you had a skin two inches +thick. So there they stood, inert and solid as two huge brown rocks, +save for the deep, wicked twinkle of their little eyes. + +Yes, we were close enough to "see the whites of their eyes," if they +had had any: and also to be within the range of their limited vision. Of +course we were now stalking, and taking advantage of all the cover. + +Those rhinoceroses looked to me like two Dreadnaughts. The African +two-horned rhinoceros is a bigger animal anyway than our circus friend, +who generally comes from India. One of these brutes I measured went five +feet nine inches at the shoulder, and was thirteen feet six inches from +bow to stern. Compare these dimensions with your own height and with the +length of your motor car. It is one thing to take on such beasts in the +hurry of surprise, the excitement of a charge, or to stalk up to within +a respectable range of them with a gun at ready. But this deliberate +sneaking up with the hope of being able to sneak away again was a little +too slow and cold-blooded. It made me nervous. I liked it, but I knew +at the time I was going to like it a whole lot better when it was +triumphantly over. + +We were now within twenty yards (they were standing starboard side on), +and I prepared to get my picture. To do so I would either have to step +quietly out into sight, trusting to the shadow and the slowness of my +movements to escape observation, or hold the camera above the bush, +directing it by guess work. It was a little difficult to decide. I knew +what I OUGHT to do-- + +Without the slightest premonitory warning those two brutes snorted and +whirled in their tracks to stand facing in our direction. After the dead +stillness they made a tremendous row, what with the jerky suddenness of +their movements, their loud snorts, and the avalanche of echoing stones +and boulders they started down the hill. + +This was the magnificent opportunity. At this point I should boldly +have stepped out from behind my bush, levelled my trusty 3A, and coolly +snapped the beasts, "charging at fifteen yards." Then, if B.'s and F.'s +shots went absolutely true, or if the brutes didn't happen to smash the +camera as well as me, I, or my executors as the case might be, would +have had a fine picture. + +But I didn't. I dropped that expensive 3A Special on some hard rocks, +and grabbed my rifle from Memba Sasa. If you want really to know why, go +confront your motor car at fifteen or twenty paces, multiply him by two, +and endow him with an eagerly malicious disposition. + +They advanced several yards, halted, faced us for perhaps five or +six seconds, uttered snort, whirled with the agility of polo ponies, +departed at a swinging trot and with surprising agility along the steep +side hill. + +I recovered the camera, undamaged, and we continued our climb. + +The top of the mesa was disappointing as far as game was concerned. It +was covered all over with red stones, round, and as large as a man's +head. Thornbushes found some sort of sustenance in the interstices. + +But we had gained to a magnificent view. Below us lay the narrow flat, +then the winding jungle of our river, then long rolling desert country, +gray with thorn scrub, sweeping upward to the base of castellated buttes +and one tremendous riven cliff mountain, dropping over the horizon to a +very distant blue range. Behind us eight or ten miles away was the low +ridge through which our journey had come. The mesa on which we stood +broke back at right angles to admit another stream flowing into our own. +Beyond this stream were rolling hills, and scrub country, the hint of +blue peaks and illimitable distances falling away to the unknown Tara +Desert and the sea. + +There seemed to be nothing much to be gained here, so we made up our +minds to cut across the mesa, and from the other edge of it to overlook +the valley of the tributary river. This we would descend until we came +to our horses. + +Accordingly we stumbled across a mile or so of those round and rolling +stones. Then we found ourselves overlooking a wide flat or pocket where +the stream valley widened. It extended even as far as the upward fling +of the barrier ranges. Thick scrub covered it, but erratically, so that +here and there were little openings or thin places. We sat down, manned +our trusty prism glasses, and gave ourselves to the pleasing occupation +of looking the country over inch by inch. + +This is great fun. It is a game a good deal like puzzle pictures. +Re-examination generally develops new and unexpected beasts. We repeated +to each other aloud the results of our scrutiny, always without removing +the glasses from our eyes. + +"Oryx, one," said F.; "oryx, two." + +"Giraffe," reported B., "and a herd of impalla." + +I saw another giraffe, and another oryx, then two rhinoceroses. + +The three bearers squatted on their heels behind us, their fierce eyes +staring straight ahead, seeing with the naked eye what we were finding +with six-power glasses. + +We turned to descend the hill. In the very centre of the deep shade of +a clump of trees, I saw the gleam of a waterbuck's horns. While I was +telling of this, the beast stepped from his concealment, trotted a short +distance upstream and turned to climb a little ridge parallel to that +by which we were descending. About halfway up he stopped, staring in +our direction, his head erect, the slight ruff under his neck standing +forward. He was a good four hundred yards away. B., who wanted him, +decided the shot too chancy. He and F. slipped backward until they had +gained the cover of the little ridge, then hastened down the bed of +the ravine. Their purpose was to follow the course already taken by the +waterbuck until they should have sneaked within better range. In the +meantime I and the gunbearers sat down in full view of the buck. This +was to keep his attention distracted. + +We sat there a long time. The buck never moved but continued to stare +at what evidently puzzled him. Time passes very slowly in such +circumstances, and it seemed incredible that the beast should continue +much longer to hold his fixed attitude. Nevertheless B. and F. were +working hard. We caught glimpses of them occasionally slipping from bush +to bush. Finally B. knelt and levelled his rifle. At once I turned my +glasses on the buck. Before the sound of the rifle had reached me, I saw +him start convulsively, then make off at the tearing run that indicates +a heart hit. A moment later the crack of the rifle and the dull plunk of +the hitting bullet struck my ear. + +We tracked him fifty yards to where he lay dead. He was a fine trophy, +and we at once set the boys to preparing it and taking the meat. In the +meantime we sauntered down to look at the stream. It was a small +rapid affair, but in heavy papyrus, with sparse trees, and occasional +thickets, and dry hard banks. The papyrus should make a good lurking +place for almost anything; but the few points of access to the water +failed to show many interesting tracks. Nevertheless we decided to +explore a short distance. + +For an hour we walked among high thornbushes, over baking hot earth. We +saw two or three dik-dik and one of the giraffes. At that time it had +become very hot, and the sun was bearing down on us as with the weight +of a heavy hand. The air had the scorching, blasting quality of an +opened furnace door. Our mouths were getting dry and sticky in that +peculiar stage of thirst on which no luke-warm canteen water in +necessarily limited quantity has any effect. So we turned back, picked +up the men with the waterbuck, and plodded on down the little stream, +or, rather, on the red-hot dry valley bottom outside the stream's +course, to where the syces were waiting with our horses. We mounted with +great thankfulness. It was now eleven o'clock, and we considered our day +as finished. + +The best way for a distance seemed to follow the course of the tributary +stream to its point of junction with our river. We rode along, rather +relaxed in the suffocating heat. F. was nearest the stream. At one point +it freed itself of trees and brush and ran clear, save for low papyrus, +ten feet down below a steep eroded bank. F. looked over and uttered a +startled exclamation. I spurred my horse forward to see. + +Below us, about fifteen yards away, was the carcass of a waterbuck half +hidden in the foot-high grass. A lion and two lionesses stood upon it, +staring up at us with great yellow eyes. That picture is a very vivid +one in my memory, for those were the first wild lions I had ever seen. +My most lively impression was of their unexpected size. They seemed to +bulk fully a third larger than my expectation. + +The magnificent beasts stood only long enough to see clearly what had +disturbed them, then turned, and in two bounds had gained the shelter of +the thicket. + +Now the habit in Africa is to let your gunbearers carry all your guns. +You yourself stride along hand free. It is an English idea, and +is pretty generally adopted out there by every one, of whatever +nationality. They will explain it to you by saying that in such a +climate a man should do only necessary physical work, and that a +good gunbearer will get a weapon into your hand so quickly and in so +convenient a position that you will lose no time. I acknowledge the +gunbearers are sometimes very skilful at this, but I do deny that there +is no loss of time. The instant of distracted attention while receiving +a weapon, the necessity of recollecting the nervous correlations +after the transfer, very often mark just the difference between a sure +instinctive snapshot and a lost opportunity. It reasons that the man +with the rifle in his hand reacts instinctively, in one motion, to get +his weapon into play. If the gunbearer has the gun, HE must first react +to pass it up, the master must receive it properly, and THEN, and not +until then, may go on from where the other man began. As for physical +labour in the tropics: if a grown man cannot without discomfort or evil +effects carry an eight-pound rifle, he is too feeble to go out at all. +In a long Western experience I have learned never to be separated from +my weapon; and I believe the continuance of this habit in Africa saved +me a good number of chances. + +At any rate, we all flung ourselves off our horses. I, having my +rifle in my hand, managed to throw a shot after the biggest lion as he +vanished. It was a snap at nothing, and missed. Then in an opening on +the edge a hundred yards away appeared one of the lionesses. She was +trotting slowly, and on her I had time to draw a hasty aim. At the shot +she bounded high in the air, fell, rolled over, and was up and into the +thicket before I had much more than time to pump up another shell from +the magazine. Memba Sasa in his eagerness got in the way-the first and +last time he ever made a mistake in the field. + +By this time the others had got hold of their weapons. We fronted the +blank face of the thicket. + +The wounded animal would stand a little waiting. We made a wide circle +to the other side of the stream. There we quickly picked up the trail of +the two uninjured beasts. They had headed directly over the hill, where +we speedily lost all trace of them on the flint-like surface of the +ground. We saw a big pack of baboons in the only likely direction for +a lion to go. Being thus thrown back on a choice of a hundred other +unlikely directions, we gave up that slim chance and returned to the +thicket. + +This proved to be a very dense piece of cover. Above the height of the +waist the interlocking branches would absolutely prevent any progress, +but by stooping low we could see dimly among the simpler main stems to +a distance of perhaps fifteen or twenty feet. This combination at once +afforded the wounded lioness plenty of cover in which to hide, plenty of +room in which to charge home, and placed us under the disadvantage of a +crouched or crawling attitude with limited vision. We talked the matter +over very thoroughly. There was only one way to get that lioness out; +and that was to go after her. The job of going after her needed some +planning. The lion is cunning and exceeding fierce. A flank attack, once +we were in the thicket, was as much to be expected as a frontal charge. + +We advanced to the thicket's edge with many precautions. To our relief +we found she had left us a definite trail. B. and I kneeling took up +positions on either side, our rifles ready. F. and Simba crawled by +inches eight or ten feet inside the thicket. Then, having executed this +manoeuvre safely, B. moved up to protect our rear while I, with Memba +Sasa, slid down to join F. + +From this point we moved forward alternately. I would crouch, all +alert, my rifle ready, while F. slipped by me and a few feet ahead. Then +he get organized for battle while I passed him. Memba Sasa and Simba, +game as badgers, their fine eyes gleaming with excitement, their +faces shining, crept along at the rear. B. knelt outside the thicket, +straining his eyes for the slightest movement either side of the line of +our advance. Often these wily animals will sneak back in a half circle +to attack their pursuers from behind. Two or three of the bolder porters +crouched alongside B., peering eagerly. The rest had quite properly +retired to the safe distance where the horses stood. + +We progressed very, very slowly. Every splash of light or mottled +shadow, every clump of bush stems, every fallen log had to be examined, +and then examined again. And how we did strain our eyes in a vain +attempt to penetrate the half lights, the duskinesses of the closed-in +thicket not over fifteen feet away! And then the movement forward of two +feet would bring into our field of vision an entirely new set of tiny +vistas and possible lurking places. + +Speaking for myself, I was keyed up to a tremendous tension. I stared +until my eyes ached; every muscle and nerve was taut. Everything +depended on seeing the beast promptly, and firing quickly. With the +manifest advantage of being able to see us, she would spring to battle +fully prepared. A yellow flash and a quick shot seemed about to size up +that situation. Every few moments, I remember, I surreptitiously +held out my hand to see if the constantly growing excitement and the +long-continued strain had affected its steadiness. + +The combination of heat and nervous strain was very exhausting. The +sweat poured from me; and as F. passed me I saw the great drops standing +out on his face. My tongue got dry, my breath came laboriously. Finally +I began to wonder whether physically I should be able to hold out. We +had been crawling, it seemed, for hours. I dared not look back, but we +must have come a good quarter mile. Finally F. stopped. + +"I'm all in for water," he gasped in a whisper. + +Somehow that confession made me feel a lot better. I had thought that +I was the only one. Cautiously we settled back on our heels. Memba Sasa +and Simba wiped the sweat from their faces. It seemed that they too had +found the work severe. That cheered me up still more. + +Simba grinned at us, and, worming his way backward with the sinuousity +of a snake, he disappeared in the direction from which we had come. +F. cursed after him in a whisper both for departing and for taking the +risk. But in a moment he had returned carrying two canteens of blessed +water. We took a drink most gratefully. + +I glanced at my watch. It was just under two hours since I had fired +my shot. I looked back. My supposed quarter mile had shrunk to not over +fifty feet! + +After resting a few moments longer, we again took up our systematic +advance. We made perhaps another fifty feet. We were ascending a very +gentle slope. F. was for the moment ahead. Right before us the lion +growled; a deep rumbling like the end of a great thunder roll, fathoms +and fathoms deep, with the inner subterranean vibrations of a heavy +train of cars passing a man inside a sealed building. At the same moment +over F.'s shoulder I saw a huge yellow head rise up, the round eyes +flashing anger, the small black-tipped ears laid back, the great fangs +snarling. The beast was not over twelve feet distant. F. immediately +fired. His shot, hitting an intervening twig, went wild. With the utmost +coolness he immediately pulled the other trigger of his double barrel. +The cartridge snapped. + +"If you will kindly stoop down-" said I, in what I now remember to be +rather an exaggeratedly polite tone. As F.'s head disappeared, I placed +the little gold bead of my 405 Winchester where I thought it would do +the most good, and pulled trigger. She rolled over dead. + +The whole affair had begun and finished with unbelievable swiftness. +From the growl to the fatal shot I don't suppose four seconds elapsed, +for our various actions had followed one another with the speed of the +instinctive. The lioness had growled at our approach, had raised her +head to charge, and had received her deathblow before she had released +her muscles in the spring. There had been no time to get frightened. + +We sat back for a second. A brown hand reached over my shoulder. + +"Mizouri-mizouri sana!" cried Memba Sasa joyously. I shook the hand. + +"Good business!" said F. "Congratulate you on your first lion." + +We then remembered B., and shouted to him that all was over. He and the +other men wriggled in to where we were lying. He made this distance in +about fifteen seconds. It had taken us nearly an hour. + +We had the lioness dragged out into the open. She was not an especially +large beast, as compared to most of the others I killed later, but at +that time she looked to me about as big as they made them. As a matter +of fact she was quite big enough, for she stood three feet two inches +at the shoulder-measure that against the wall-and was seven feet and +six inches in length. My first bullet had hit her leg, and the last had +reached her heart. + +Every one shook me by the hand. The gunbearers squatted about the +carcass, skilfully removing the skin to an undertone of curious crooning +that every few moments broke out into one or two bars of a chant. As the +body was uncovered, the men crouched about to cut off little pieces of +fat. These they rubbed on their foreheads and over their chests, to make +them brave, they said, and cunning, like the lion. + +We remounted and took up our interrupted journey to camp. It was +a little after two, and the heat was at its worst. We rode rather +sleepily, for the reaction from the high tension of excitement had set +in. Behind us marched the three gunbearers, all abreast, very military +and proud. Then came the porters in single file, the one carrying the +folded lion skin leading the way; those bearing the waterbuck trophy +and meat bringing up the rear. They kept up an undertone of humming in +a minor key; occasionally breaking into a short musical phrase in full +voice. + +We rode an hour. The camp looked very cool and inviting under its wide +high trees, with the river slipping by around the islands of papyrus. A +number of black heads bobbed about in the shallows. The small fires sent +up little wisps of smoke. Around them our boys sprawled, playing simple +games, mending, talking, roasting meat. Their tiny white tents gleamed +pleasantly among the cool shadows. + +I had thought of riding nonchalantly up to our own tents, of dismounting +with a careless word of greeting-- + +"Oh, yes," I would say, "we did have a good enough day. Pretty hot. Roy +got a fine waterbuck. Yes, I got a lion." (Tableau on part of Billy.) + +But Memba Sasa used up all the nonchalance there was. As we entered camp +he remarked casually to the nearest man. + +"Bwana na piga simba-the master has killed a lion." + +The man leaped to his feet. + +"Simba! simba! simba!" he yelled. "Na piga simba!" + +Every one in camp also leaped to his feet, taking up the cry. From the +water it was echoed as the bathers scrambled ashore. The camp broke into +pandemonium. We were surrounded by a dense struggling mass of men. They +reached up scores of black hands to grasp my own; they seized from me +everything portable and bore it in triumph before me-my water bottle, +my rifle, my camera, my whip, my field glasses, even my hat, everything +that was detachable. Those on the outside danced and lifted up their +voices in song, improvised for the most part, and in honor of the day's +work. In a vast swirling, laughing, shouting, triumphant mob we swept +through the camp to where Billy-by now not very much surprised-was +waiting to get the official news. By the measure of this extravagant joy +could we gauge what the killing of a lion means to these people who have +always lived under the dread of his rule. + + + + + +X. LIONS + +A very large lion I killed stood three feet and nine inches at the +withers, and of course carried his head higher than that. The top of +the table at which I sit is only two feet three inches from the floor. +Coming through the door at my back that lion's head would stand over +a foot higher than halfway up. Look at your own writing desk; your own +door. Furthermore, he was nine feet and eleven inches in a straight line +from nose to end of tail, or over eleven feet along the contour of the +back. If he were to rise on his hind feet to strike a man down, he would +stand somewhere between seven and eight feet tall, depending on how +nearly he straightened up. He weighed just under six hundred pounds, or +as much as four well-grown specimens of our own "mountain lion." I tell +you this that you may realize, as I did not, the size to which a wild +lion grows. Either menagerie specimens are stunted in growth, or their +position and surroundings tend to belittle them, for certainly until a +man sees old Leo in the wilderness he has not understood what a fine old +chap he is. + +This tremendous weight is sheer strength. A lion's carcass when the skin +is removed is a really beautiful sight. The great muscles lie in ropes +and bands; the forearm thicker than a man's leg, the lithe barrel banded +with brawn; the flanks overlaid by the long thick muscles. And this +power is instinct with the nervous force of a highly organized being. +The lion is quick and intelligent and purposeful; so that he brings to +his intenser activities the concentration of vivid passion, whether of +anger, of hunger or of desire. + +So far the opinions of varied experience will jog along together. At +this point they diverge. + +Just as the lion is one of the most interesting and fascinating of +beasts, so concerning him one may hear the most diverse opinions. This +man will tell you that any lion is always dangerous. Another will hold +the king of beasts in the most utter contempt as a coward and a skulker. + +In the first place, generalization about any species of animal is an +exceedingly dangerous thing. I believe that, in the case of the higher +animals at least, the differences in individual temperament are quite +likely to be more numerous than the specific likenesses. Just as +individual men are bright or dull, nervous or phlegmatic, cowardly or +brave, so individual animals vary in like respect. Our own hunters will +recall from their personal experiences how the big bear may have sat +down and bawled harmlessly for mercy, while the little unconsidered +fellow did his best until finished off: how one buck dropped instantly +to a wound that another would carry five miles: how of two equally +matched warriors of the herd one will give way in the fight, while +still uninjured, before his perhaps badly wounded antagonist. The casual +observer might-and often does-say that all bears are cowardly, all bucks +are easily killed, or the reverse, according as the god of chance has +treated him to one spectacle or the other. As well try to generalize +on the human race-as is a certain ecclesiastical habit-that all men are +vile or noble, dishonest or upright, wise or foolish. + +The higher we go in the scale the truer this individualism holds. We +are forced to reason not from the bulk of observations, but from their +averages. If we find ten bucks who will go a mile wounded to two who +succumb in their tracks from similar hurts, we are justified in saying +tentatively that the species is tenacious of life. But as experience +broadens we may modify that statement; for strange indeed are runs of +luck. + +For this reason a good deal of the wise conclusion we read in +sportsmen's narratives is worth very little. Few men have experience +enough with lions to rise to averages through the possibilities of luck. +ESPECIALLY is this true of lions. No beast that roams seems to go more +by luck than felis leo. Good hunters may search for years without seeing +hide nor hair of one of the beasts. Selous, one of the greatest, went to +East Africa for the express purpose of getting some of the fine beasts +there, hunted six weeks and saw none. Holmes of the Escarpment has lived +in the country six years, has hunted a great deal and has yet to kill +his first. One of the railroad officials has for years gone up and down +the Uganda Railway on his handcar, his rifle ready in hopes of the lion +that never appeared; though many are there seen by those with better +fortune. Bronson hunted desperately for this great prize, but failed. +Rainsford shot no lions his first trip, and ran into them only three +years later. Read Abel Chapman's description of his continued bad luck +at even seeing the beasts. MacMillan, after five years' unbroken good +fortune, has in the last two years failed to kill a lion, although he +has made many trips for the purpose. F. told me he followed every rumour +of a lion for two years before he got one. Again, one may hear the most +marvellous of yarns the other way about-of the German who shot one from +the train on the way up from Mombasa; of the young English tenderfoot +who, the first day out, came on three asleep, across a river, and potted +the lot; and so on. The point is, that in the case of lions the element +of sheer chance seems to begin earlier and last longer than is the case +with any other beast. And, you must remember, experience must thrust +through the luck element to the solid ground of averages before it can +have much value in the way of generalization. Before he has reached that +solid ground, a man's opinions depend entirely on what kind of lions +he chances to meet, in what circumstances, and on how matters happen to +shape in the crowded moments. + +But though lack of sufficiently extended experience has much to do with +these decided differences of opinion, I believe that misapprehension +has also its part. The sportsman sees lions on the plains. Likewise the +lions see him, and promptly depart to thick cover or rocky butte. He +comes on them in the scrub; they bound hastily out of sight. He may even +meet them face to face, but instead of attacking him, they turn to right +and left and make off in the long grass. When he follows them, they +sneak cunningly away. If, added to this, he has the good luck to kill +one or two stone dead at a single shot each, he begins to think there is +not much in lion shooting after all, and goes home proclaiming the king +of beasts a skulking coward. + +After all, on what grounds does he base this conclusion? In what way +have circumstances been a test of courage at all? The lion did not +stand and fight, to be sure; but why should he? What was there in it +for lions? Behind any action must a motive exist. Where is the possible +motive for any lion to attack on sight? He does not-except in unusual +cases-eat men; nothing has occurred to make him angry. The obvious thing +is to avoid trouble, unless there is a good reason to seek it. In that +one evidences the lion's good sense, but not his lack of courage. That +quality has not been called upon at all. + +But if the sportsman had done one of two or three things, I am quite +sure he would have had a taste of our friend's mettle. If he had shot at +and even grazed the beast; if he had happened upon him where an exit was +not obvious; or IF HE HAD EVEN FOLLOWED THE LION UNTIL THE LATTER HAD +BECOME TIRED OF THE ANNOYANCE, he would very soon have discovered that +Leo is not all good nature, and that once on his courage will take him +in against any odds. Furthermore, he may be astonished and dismayed +to discover that of a group of several lions, two or three besides the +wounded animal are quite likely to take up the quarrel and charge too. +In other words, in my opinion, the lion avoids trouble when he can, not +from cowardice but from essential indolence or good nature; but does not +need to be cornered* to fight to the death when in his mind his dignity +is sufficiently assailed. + + * This is an important distinction in estimating the inherent + courage of man or beast. Even a mouse will fight when + cornered. + +For of all dangerous beasts the lion, when once aroused, will alone face +odds to the end. The rhinoceros, the elephant, and even the buffalo can +often be turned aside by a shot. A lion almost always charges home.* +Slower and slower he comes, as the bullets strike; but he comes, until +at last he may be just hitching himself along, his face to the enemy, +his fierce spirit undaunted. When finally he rolls over, he bites the +earth in great mouthfuls; and so passes fighting to the last. The death +of a lion is a fine sight. + + * I seem to be generalizing here, but all these conclusions + must be understood to take into consideration the liability + of individual variation. + +No, I must confess, to me the lion is an object of great respect; and +so, I gather, he is to all who have had really extensive experience. +Those like Leslie Tarleton, Lord Delamere, W. N. MacMillan, Baron von +Bronsart, the Hills, Sir Alfred Pease, who are great lion men, all +concede to the lion a courage and tenacity unequalled by any other +living beast. My own experience is of course nothing as compared to that +of these men. Yet I saw in my nine months afield seventy-one lions. None +of these offered to attack when unwounded or not annoyed. On the other +hand, only one turned tail once the battle was on, and she proved to be +a three quarters grown lioness, sick and out of condition. + +It is of course indubitable that where lions have been much shot they +become warier in the matter of keeping out of trouble. They retire to +cover earlier in the morning, and they keep more than a perfunctory +outlook for the casual human being. When hunters first began to go into +the Sotik the lions there would stand imperturbable, staring at the +intruder with curiosity or indifference. Now they have learned that +such performances are not healthy-and they have probably satisfied +their curiosity. But neither in the Sotik, nor even in the plains around +Nairobi itself, does the lion refuse the challenge once it has been put +up to him squarely. Nor does he need to be cornered. He charges in quite +blithely from the open plain, once convinced that you are really an +annoyance. + +As to habits! The only sure thing about a lion is his originality. He +has more exceptions to his rules than the German language. Men who have +been mighty lion hunters for many years, and who have brought to their +hunting close observation, can only tell you what a lion MAY do in +certain circumstances. Following very broad principles, they may even +predict what he is APT to do, but never what he certainly WILL do. That +is one thing that makes lion hunting interesting. + +In general, then, the lion frequents that part of the country where feed +the great game herds. From them he takes his toll by night, retiring +during the day into the shallow ravines, the brush patches, or the rocky +little buttes. I have, however, seen lions miles from game, slumbering +peacefully atop an ant hill. Indeed, occasionally, a pack of lions likes +to live high in the tall-grass ridges where every hunt will mean for +them a four- or five-mile jaunt out and back again. He needs water, +after feeding, and so rarely gets farther than eight or ten miles from +that necessity. + +He hunts at night. This is as nearly invariable a rule as can be +formulated in regard to lions. Yet once, and perhaps twice, I saw +lionesses stalking through tall grass as early as three o'clock in +the afternoon. This eagerness may, or may not, have had to do with the +possession of hungry cubs. The lion's customary harmlessness in the +daytime is best evidenced, however, by the comparative indifference of +the game to his presence then. From a hill we watched three of these +beasts wandering leisurely across the plains below. A herd of kongonis +feeding directly in their path, merely moved aside right and left, quite +deliberately, to leave a passage fifty yards or so wide, but otherwise +paid not the slightest attention. I have several times seen this +incident, or a modification of it. And yet, conversely, on a number of +occasions we have received our first intimation of the presence of lions +by the wild stampeding of the game away from a certain spot. + +However, the most of his hunting is done by dark. Between the hours of +sundown and nine o'clock he and his comrades may be heard uttering the +deep coughing grunt typical of this time of night. These curious, short, +far-sounding calls may be mere evidences of intention, or they may be +a sort of signal by means of which the various hunters keep in touch. +After a little they cease. Then one is quite likely to hear the +petulant, alarmed barking of zebra, or to feel the vibrations of many +hoofs. There is a sense of hurried, flurried uneasiness abroad on the +veldt. + +The lion generally springs on his prey from behind or a little off the +quarter. By the impetus his own weight he hurls his victim forward, +doubling its head under, and very neatly breaking its neck. I have never +seen this done, but the process has been well observed and attested; and +certainly, of the many hundreds of lion kills I have taken the pains +to inspect, the majority had had their necks broken. Sometimes, but +apparently more rarely, the lion kills its prey by a bite in the back of +the neck. I have seen zebra killed in this fashion, but never any of the +buck. It may be possible that the lack of horns makes it more difficult +to break a zebra's neck because of the corresponding lack of leverage +when its head hits the ground sidewise; the instances I have noted may +have been those in which the lion's spring landed too far back to throw +the victim properly; or perhaps they were merely examples of the great +variability in the habits of felis leo. + +Once the kill is made, the lion disembowels the beast very neatly +indeed, and drags the entrails a few feet out of the way. He then eats +what he wants, and, curiously enough, seems often to be very fond of the +skin. In fact, lacking other evidence, it is occasionally possible +to identify a kill as being that of a lion by noticing whether any +considerable portion of the hide has been devoured. After eating he +drinks. Then he is likely to do one of two things: either he returns +to cover near the carcass and lies down, or he wanders slowly and with +satisfaction toward his happy home. In the latter case the hyenas, +jackals, and carrion birds seize their chance. The astute hunter can +often diagnose the case by the general actions and demeanour of these +camp followers. A half dozen sour and disgusted looking hyenas seated +on their haunches at scattered intervals, and treefuls of mournfully +humpbacked vultures sunk in sadness, indicate that the lion has decided +to save the rest of his zebra until to-morrow and is not far away. +On the other hand, a grand flapping, snarling Kilkenny-fair of an +aggregation swirling about one spot in the grass means that the +principal actor has gone home. + +It is ordinarily useless to expect to see the lion actually on his prey. +The feeding is done before dawn, after which the lion enjoys stretching +out in the open until the sun is well up, and then retiring to the +nearest available cover. Still, at the risk of seeming to be perpetually +qualifying, I must instance finding three lions actually on the stale +carcass of a waterbuck at eleven o'clock in the morning of a piping +hot day! In an undisturbed country, or one not much hunted, the early +morning hours up to say nine o'clock are quite likely to show you lions +sauntering leisurely across the open plains toward their lairs. They +go a little, stop a little, yawn, sit down a while, and gradually work +their way home. At those times you come upon them unexpectedly face to +face, or, seeing them from afar, ride them down in a glorious gallop. +Where the country has been much hunted, however, the lion learns to +abandon his kill and seek shelter before daylight, and is almost never +seen abroad. Then one must depend on happening upon him in his cover. + +In the actual hunting of his game the lion is apparently very clever. +He understands the value of cooperation. Two or more will manoeuvre +very skilfully to give a third the chance to make an effective spring; +whereupon the three will share the kill. In a rough country, or +one otherwise favourable to the method, a pack of lions will often +deliberately drive game into narrow ravines or cul de sacs where the +killers are waiting. + +At such times the man favoured by the chance of an encampment within +five miles or so can hear a lion's roar. + +Otherwise I doubt if he is apt often to get the full-voiced, genuine +article. The peculiar questioning cough of early evening is resonant and +deep in vibration, but it is a call rather than a roar. No lion is fool +enough to make a noise when he is stalking. Then afterward, when full +fed, individuals may open up a few times, but only a few times, in +sheer satisfaction, apparently, at being well fed. The menagerie row at +feeding time, formidable as it sounds within the echoing walls, is only +a mild and gentle hint. But when seven or eight lions roar merely to +see how much noise they can make, as when driving game, or trying to +stampede your oxen on a wagon trip, the effect is something tremendous. +The very substance of the ground vibrates; the air shakes. I can only +compare it to the effect of a very large deep organ in a very small +church. There is something genuinely awe-inspiring about it; and when +the repeated volleys rumble into silence, one can imagine the veldt +crouched in a rigid terror that shall endure. + + + + + +XI. LIONS AGAIN + +As to the dangers of lion hunting it is also difficult to write. There +is no question that a cool man, using good judgment as to just what +he can or cannot do, should be able to cope with lion situations. The +modern rifle is capable of stopping the beast, provided the bullet goes +to the right spot. The right spot is large enough to be easy to hit, if +the shooter keeps cool. Our definition of a cool man must comprise the +elements of steady nerves under super-excitement, the ability to think +quickly and clearly, and the mildly strategic quality of being able to +make the best use of awkward circumstances. Such a man, barring sheer +accidents, should be able to hunt lions with absolute certainty for +just as long as he does not get careless, slipshod or over-confident. +Accidents-real accidents, not merely unexpected happenings-are hardly to +be counted. They can occur in your own house. + +But to the man not temperamentally qualified, lion shooting is dangerous +enough. The lion, when he takes the offensive, intends to get his +antagonist. Having made up his mind to that, he charges home, generally +at great speed. The realization that it is the man's life or the beast's +is disconcerting. Also the charging lion is a spectacle much more +awe-inspiring in reality than the most vivid imagination can predict. +He looks very large, very determined, and has uttered certain rumbling, +blood-curdling threats as to what he is going to do about it. It +suddenly seems most undesirable to allow that lion to come any closer, +not even an inch! A hasty, nervous shot misses-- + +An unwounded lion charging from a distance is said to start rather +slowly, and to increase his pace only as he closes. Personally I have +never been charged by an unwounded beast, but I can testify that the +wounded animal comes very fast. Cuninghame puts the rate at about seven +seconds to the hundred yards. Certainly I should say that a man charged +from fifty yards or so would have little chance for a second shot, +provided he missed the first. A hit seemed, in my experience, to the +animal, by sheer force of impact, long enough to permit me to throw in +another cartridge. A lioness thus took four frontal bullets starting at +about sixty yards. An initial miss would probably have permitted her to +close. + +Here, as can be seen, is a great source of danger to a flurried or +nervous beginner. He does not want that lion to get an inch nearer; he +fires at too long a range, misses, and is killed or mauled before he can +reload. This happened precisely so to two young friends of MacMillan. +They were armed with double-rifles, let them off hastily as the beast +started at them from two hundred yards, and never got another chance. If +they had possessed the experience to have waited until the lion had +come within fifty yards they would have had the almost certainty of +four barrels at close range. Though I have seen a lion missed clean well +inside those limits. + +From such performances are so-called lion accidents built. During my +stay in Africa I heard of six white men being killed by lions, and a +number of others mauled. As far as possible I tried to determine the +facts of each case. In every instance the trouble followed either +foolishness or loss of nerve. I believe I should be quite safe in +saying that from identically the same circumstances any of the good lion +men-Tarleton, Lord Delamere, the Hills, and others-would have extricated +themselves unharmed. + +This does not mean that accidents may not happen. Rifles jam, but +generally because of flurried manipulation! One may unexpectedly meet +the lion at too close quarters; a foot may slip, or a cartridge prove +defective. So may one fall downstairs or bump one's head in the dark. +Sufficient forethought and alertness and readiness would go far in +either case to prevent bad results. + +The wounded beast, of course, offers the most interesting problem to the +lion hunter. If it sees the hunter, it is likely to charge him at once. +If hit while making off, however, it is more apt to take cover. Then one +must summon all his good sense and nerve to get it out. No rules can be +given for this; nor am I trying to write a text book for lion hunters. +Any good lion hunter knows a lot more about it than I do. But always +a man must keep in mind three things: that a lion can hide in cover so +short that it seems to the novice as though a jack-rabbit would find +scant concealment there; that he charges like lightning, and that he +can spring about fifteen feet. This spring, coming unexpectedly from an +unseen beast, is about impossible to avoid. Sheer luck may land a fatal +shot; but even then the lion will probably do his damage before he dies. +The rush from a short distance a good quick shot ought to be able to +cope with. + +Therefore the wise hunter assures himself of at least twenty +feet-preferably more-of neutral zone all about him. No matter how long +it takes, he determines absolutely that the lion is not within that +distance. The rest is alertness and quickness. + +As I have said, the amount of cover necessary to conceal a lion is +astonishingly small. He can flatten himself out surprisingly; and +his tawny colour blends so well with the brown grasses that he is +practically invisible. A practised man does not, of course, look for +lions at all. He is after unusual small patches, especially the black +ear tips or the black of the mane. Once guessed at, it is interesting to +see how quickly the hitherto unsuspected animal sketches itself out in +the cover. + +I should, before passing on to another aspect of the matter, mention the +dangerous poisons carried by the lion's claws. Often men have died +from the most trivial surface wounds. The grooves of the claws carry +putrefying meat from the kills. Every sensible man in a lion country +carries a small syringe, and either permanganate or carbolic. And those +mild little remedies he uses full strength! + +The great and overwhelming advantage is of course with the hunter. He +possesses as deadly a weapon: and that weapon will kill at a distance. +This is proper, I think. There are more lions than hunters; and, from +our point of view, the man is more important than the beast. The game is +not too hazardous. By that I mean that, barring sheer accident, a man is +sure to come out all right provided he does accurately the right thing. +In other words, it is a dangerous game of skill, but it does not possess +the blind danger of a forest in a hurricane, say. Furthermore, it is a +game that no man need play unless he wants to. In the lion country he +may go about his business-daytime business-as though he were home at the +farm. + +Such being the case, may I be pardoned for intruding one of my own small +ethical ideas at this point, with the full realization that it depends +upon an entirely personal point of view. As far as my own case goes, +I consider it poor sportsmanship ever to refuse a lion-chance merely +because the advantages are not all in my favour. After all, lion hunting +is on a different plane from ordinary shooting: it is a challenge to +war, a deliberate seeking for mortal combat. Is it not just a little +shameful to pot old felis leo at long range, in the open, near his kill, +and wherever we have him at an advantage-nine times, and then to back +out because that advantage is for once not so marked? I have so often +heard the phrase, "I let him (or them) alone. It was not good enough," +meaning that the game looked a little risky. + +Do not misunderstand. I am not advising that you bull ahead into the +long grass, or that alone you open fire on a half dozen lions in easy +range. Kind providence endowed you with strategy, and certainly you +should never go in where there is no show for you to use your weapon +effectively. But occasionally the odds will be against you and you will +be called upon to take more or less of a chance. I do not think it is +quite square to quit playing merely because for once your opponent has +been dealt the better cards. If here are too many of them see if you +cannot manoeuvre them; if the grass is long, try every means in your +power to get them out. Stay with them. If finally you fail, you will +at least have the satisfaction of knowing that circumstances alone have +defeated you. If you do not like that sort of a game, stay out of it +entirely. + + + + + +XII. MORE LIONS + +Nor do the last remarks of the preceding chapter mean that you shall not +have your trophy in peace. Perhaps excitement and a slight doubt as +to whether or not you are going to survive do not appeal to you; but +nevertheless you would like a lion skin or so. By all means shoot one +lion, or two, or three in the safest fashion you can. But after that you +ought to play the game. + +The surest way to get a lion is to kill a zebra, cut holes in him, fill +the holes with strychnine, and come back next morning. This method is +absolutely safe. + +The next safest way is to follow the quarry with a pack of especially +trained dogs. The lion is so busy and nervous over those dogs that you +can walk up and shoot him in the ear. This method has the excitement of +riding and following, the joy of a grand and noisy row, and the fun of +seeing a good dog-fight. The same effect can be got chasing wart-hogs, +hyenas, jackals-or jack-rabbits. The objection is that it wastes a +noble beast in an inferior game. My personal opinion is that no man is +justified in following with dogs any large animal that can be captured +with reasonable certainty without them. The sport of coursing is another +matter; but that is quite the same in essence whatever the size of the +quarry. If you want to kill a lion or so quite safely, and at the same +time enjoy a glorious and exciting gallop with lots of accompanying row, +by all means follow the sport with hounds. But having killed one or two +by that method, quit. Do not go on and clean up the country. You can do +it. Poison and hounds are the SURE methods of finding any lion there may +be about; and AFTER THE FIRST FEW, one is about as justifiable as the +other. If you want the undoubtedly great joy of cross country pursuit, +send your hounds in after less noble game. + +The third safe method of killing a lion is nocturnal. You lay out a kill +beneath a tree, and climb the tree. Or better, you hitch out a pig or +donkey as live bait. When the lion comes to this free lunch, you try to +see him; and, if you succeed in that, you try to shoot him. It is not +easy to shoot at night; nor is it easy to see in the dark. Furthermore, +lions only occasionally bother to come to bait. You may roost up that +tree many nights before you get a chance. Once up, you have to stay up; +for it is most decidedly not safe to go home after dark. The tropical +night in the highlands is quite chilly. Branches seem to be quite as +cramping and abrasive under the equator as in the temperate zones. +Still, it is one method. + +Another is to lay out a kill and visit it in the early morning. There is +more to this, for you are afoot, must generally search out your beast +in nearby cover, and can easily find any amount of excitement in the +process. + +The fourth way is to ride the lion. The hunter sees his quarry returning +home across the plains, perhaps; or jumps it from some small bushy +ravine. At once he spurs his horse in pursuit. The lion will run but a +short distance before coming to a stop, for he is not particularly long +either of wind or of patience. From this stand he almost invariably +charges. The astute hunter, still mounted, turns and flees. When the +lion gets tired of chasing, which he does in a very short time, the +hunter faces about. At last the lion sits down in the grass, waiting for +the game to develop. This is the time for the hunter to dismount and to +take his shot. Quite likely he must now stand a charge afoot, and drop +his beast before it gets to him. + +This is real fun. It has many elements of safety, and many of danger. + +To begin with, the hunter at this game generally has companions to back +him: often he employs mounted Somalis to round the lion up and get it +to stand. The charging lion is quite apt to make for the conspicuous +mounted men-who can easily escape-ignoring the hunter afoot. As the game +is largely played in the open, the movements of the beast are easily +followed. + +On the other hand, there is room for mistake. The hunter, for example, +should never follow directly in the rear of his lion, but rather at a +parallel course off the beast's flank. Then, if the lion stops suddenly, +the man does not overrun before he can check his mount. He should never +dismount nearer than a hundred and fifty yards from the embayed +animal; and should never try to get off while the lion is moving in +his direction. Then, too, a hard gallop is not conducive to the best of +shooting. It is difficult to hold the front bead steady; and it is still +more difficult to remember to wait, once the lion charges, until he has +come near enough for a sure shot. A neglect in the inevitable excitement +of the moment to remember these and a dozen other small matters may +quite possibly cause trouble. + +Two or three men together can make this one of the most exciting mounted +games on earth; with enough of the give and take of real danger and +battle to make it worth while. The hunter, however, who employs a dozen +Somalis to ride the beast to a standstill, after which he goes to +the front, has eliminated much of the thrill. Nor need that man's +stay-at-home family feel any excessive uneasiness over Father Killing +Lions in Africa. + +The method that interested me more than any other is one exceedingly +difficult to follow except under favourable circumstances. I refer to +tracking them down afoot. This requires that your gunbearer should be +an expert trailer, for, outside the fact that following a soft-padded +animal over all sorts of ground is a very difficult thing to do, the +hunter should be free to spy ahead. It is necessary also to possess much +patience and to endure under many disappointments. But on the other +hand there is in this sport a continuous keen thrill to be enjoyed in no +other; and he who single handed tracks down and kills his lion thus, has +well earned the title of shikari-the Hunter. + +And the last method of all is to trust to the God of Chance. The secret +of success is to be always ready to take instant advantage of what the +moment offers. + +An occasional hunting story is good in itself: and the following will +also serve to illustrate what I have just been saying. + +We were after that prize, the greater kudu, and in his pursuit had +penetrated into some very rough country. Our hunting for the time being +was over broad bench, perhaps four or five miles wide, below a range +of mountains. The bench itself broke down in sheer cliffs some fifteen +hundred feet, but one did not appreciate that fact unless he stood +fairly on the edge of the precipice. To all intents and purposes we +were on a rolling grassy plain, with low hills and cliffs, and a most +beautiful little stream running down it beneath fine trees. + +Up to now our hunting had gained us little beside information: that kudu +had occasionally visited the region, that they had not been there for a +month, and that the direction of their departure had been obscure. So we +worked our way down the stream, trying out the possibilities. Of other +game there seemed to be a fair supply: impalla, hartebeeste, zebra, +eland, buffalo, wart-hog, sing-sing, and giraffe we had seen. I had +secured a wonderful eland and a very fine impalla, and we had had a +gorgeous close-quarters fight with a cheetah.* Now C. had gone out, a +three weeks' journey, carrying to medical attendance a porter injured in +the cheetah fracas. Billy and I were continuing the hunt alone. + + * This animal quite disproved the assertion that cheetahs + never assume the aggressive. He charged repeatedly. + +We had marched two hours, and were pitching camp under a single tree +near the edge of the bench. After seeing everything well under way, I +took the Springfield and crossed the stream, which here ran in a deep +canyon. My object was to see if I could get a sing-sing that had bounded +away at our approach. I did not bother to take a gunbearer, because I +did not expect to be gone five minutes. + +The canyon proved unexpectedly deep and rough, and the stream up to my +waist. When I had gained the top, I found grass growing patchily from +six inches to two feet high; and small, scrubby trees from four to ten +feet tall, spaced regularly, but very scattered. These little trees +hardly formed cover, but their aggregation at sufficient distance +limited the view. + +The sing-sing had evidently found his way over the edge of the bench. I +turned to go back to camp. A duiker-a small grass antelope-broke from a +little patch of the taller grass, rushed, head down headlong after their +fashion, suddenly changed his mind, and dashed back again. I stepped +forward to see why he had changed his mind-and ran into two lions! + +They were about thirty yards away, and sat there on their haunches, side +by side, staring at me with expressionless yellow eyes. I stared back. +The Springfield is a good little gun, and three times before I had been +forced to shoot lions with it, but my real "lion gun" with which I had +done best work was the 405 Winchester. The Springfield is too light +for such game. Also there were two lions, very close. Also I was quite +alone. + +As the game stood, it hardly looked like my move; so I held still and +waited. Presently one yawned, they looked at each other, turned quite +leisurely, and began to move away at a walk. + +This was a different matter. If I had fired while the two were facing +me, I should probably have had them both to deal with. But now that +their tails were turned toward me, I should very likely have to do with +only the one: at the crack of the rifle the other would run the way he +was headed. So I took a careful bead at the lioness and let drive. + +My aim was to cripple the pelvic bone, but, unfortunately, just as I +fired, the beast wriggled lithely sidewise to pass around a tuft of +grass, so that the bullet inflicted merely a slight flesh wound on +the rump. She whirled like a flash, and as she raised her head high to +locate me, I had time to wish that the Springfield hit a trifle harder +blow. Also I had time to throw another cartridge in the barrel. + +The moment she saw me she dropped her head and charged. She was +thoroughly angry and came very fast. I had just enough time to steady +the gold bead on her chest and to pull trigger. + +At the shot, to my great relief, she turned bottom up, and I saw her +tail for an instant above the grass-an almost sure indication of a bad +hit. She thrashed around, and made a tremendous hullabaloo of snarls and +growls. I backed out slowly, my rifle ready. It was no place for me, for +the grass was over knee high. + +Once at a safe distance I blazed a tree with my hunting knife and +departed for camp, well pleased to be out of it. At camp I ate lunch and +had a smoke; then with Memba Sasa and Mavrouki returned to the scene +of trouble. I had now the 405 Winchester, a light and handy weapon +delivering a tremendous blow. + +We found the place readily enough. My lioness had recovered from the +first shock and had gone. I was very glad I had gone first. + +The trail was not very plain, but it could be followed a foot or so at a +time, with many faults and casts back. I walked a yard to one side while +the men followed the spoor. Owing to the abundance of cover it was +very nervous work, for the beast might be almost anywhere, and would +certainly charge. We tried to keep a neutral zone around ourselves by +tossing stones ahead of and on both sides of our line of advance. My own +position was not bad, for I had the rifle ready in my hand, but the men +were in danger. Of course I was protecting them as well as I could, but +there was always a chance that the lioness might spring on them in such +a manner that I would be unable to use my weapon. Once I suggested that +as the work was dangerous, they could quit if they wanted to. + +"Hapana!" they both refused indignantly. + +We had proceeded thus for half a mile when to our relief, right ahead of +us, sounded the commanding, rumbling half-roar, half-growl of the lion +at bay. + +Instantly Memba Sasa and Mavrouki dropped back to me. We all peered +ahead. One of the boys made her out first, crouched under a bush +thirty-two yards away. Even as I raised the rifle she saw us and +charged. I caught her in the chest before she had come ten feet. The +heavy bullet stopped her dead. Then she recovered and started forward +slowly, very weak, but game to the last. Another shot finished her. + +The remarkable point of this incident was the action of the little +Springfield bullet. Evidently the very high velocity of this bullet +from its shock to the nervous system had delivered a paralyzing blow +sufficient to knock out the lioness for the time being. Its damage to +tissue, however, was slight. Inasmuch as the initial shock did not cause +immediate death, the lioness recovered sufficiently to be able, two +hours later, to take the offensive. This point is of the greatest +interest to the student of ballistics; but it is curious to even the +ordinary reader. + +That is a very typical example of finding lions by sheer chance. +Generally a man is out looking for the smallest kind of game when he +runs up against them. Now happened to follow an equally typical example +of tracking. + +The next day after the killing of the lioness Memba Sasa, Kongoni and I +dropped off the bench, and hunted greater kudu on a series of terraces +fifteen hundred feet below. All we found were two rhino, some sing-sing, +a heard of impalla, and a tremendous thirst. In the meantime, Mavrouki +had, under orders, scouted the foothills of the mountain range at the +back. He reported none but old tracks of kudu, but said he had seen +eight lions not far from our encounter of the day before. + +Therefore, as soon next morning as we could see plainly, we again +crossed the canyon and the waist-deep stream. I had with me all three of +the gun men, and in addition two of the most courageous porters to help +with the tracking and the looking. + +About eight o'clock we found the first fresh pad mark plainly outlined +in an isolated piece of soft earth. Immediately we began that most +fascinating of games-trailing over difficult ground. In this we could +all take part, for the tracks were some hours old, and the cover scanty. +Very rarely could we make out more than three successive marks. Then we +had to spy carefully for the slightest indication of direction. Kongoni +in especial was wonderful at this, and time and again picked up a broken +grass blade or the minutest inch-fraction of disturbed earth. We moved +slowly, in long hesitations and castings about, and in swift little +dashes forward of a few feet; and often we went astray on false scents, +only to return finally to the last certain spot. In this manner we +crossed the little plain with the scattered shrub trees and arrived at +the edge of the low bluff above the stream bottom. + +This bottom was well wooded along the immediate bank of the stream +itself, fringed with low thick brush, and in the open spaces grown to +the edges with high, green, coarse grass. + +As soon as we had managed to follow without fault to this grass, our +difficulties of trailing were at an end. The lions' heavy bodies +had made distinct paths through the tangle. These paths went forward +sinuously, sometimes separating one from the other, sometimes +intertwining, sometimes combining into one for a short distance. We +could not determine accurately the number of beasts that had made them. + +"They have gone to drink water," said Memba Sasa. + +We slipped along the twisting paths, alert for indications; came to the +edge of the thicket, stooped through the fringe, and descended to the +stream under the tall trees. The soft earth at the water's edge was +covered with tracks, thickly overlaid one over the other. The boys felt +of the earth, examined, even smelled, and came to the conclusion that +the beasts must have watered about five o'clock. If so, they might be +ten miles away, or as many rods. + +We had difficulty in determining just where the party left this place, +until finally Kongoni caught sight of suspicious indications over the +way. The lions had crossed the stream. We did likewise, followed the +trail out of the thicket, into the grass, below the little cliffs +parallel to the stream, back into the thicket, across the river once +more, up the other side, in the thicket for a quarter mile, then out +into the grass on that side, and so on. They were evidently wandering, +rather idly, up the general course of the stream. Certainly, unlike most +cats, they did not mind getting their feet wet, for they crossed the +stream four times. + +At last the twining paths in the shoulder-high grass fanned out +separately. We counted. + +"You were right, Mavrouki," said I, "there were eight." + +At the end of each path was a beaten-down little space where evidently +the beasts had been lying down. With an exclamation the three gunbearers +darted forward to investigate. The lairs were still warm! Their +occupants had evidently made off only at our approach! + +Not five minutes later we were halted by a low warning growl right +ahead. We stopped. The boys squatted on their heels close to me, and we +consulted in whispers. + +Of course it would be sheer madness to attack eight lions in grass +so high we could not see five feet in front of us. That went without +saying. On the other hand, Mavrouki swore that he had yesterday seen no +small cubs with the band, and our examination of the tracks made in soft +earth seemed to bear him out. The chances were therefore that, unless +themselves attacked or too close pressed, the lions would not attack us. +By keeping just in their rear we might be able to urge them gently along +until they should enter more open cover. Then we could see. + +Therefore we gave the owner of that growl about five minutes to forget +it, and then advanced very cautiously. We soon found where the objector +had halted, and plainly read by the indications where he had stood for a +moment or so, and then moved on. We slipped along after. + +For five hours we hung at the heels of that band of lions, moving very +slowly, perfectly willing to halt whenever they told us to, and going +forward again only when we became convinced that they too had gone on. +Except for the first half hour, we were never more than twenty or thirty +yards from the nearest lion, and often much closer. Three or four +times I saw slowly gliding yellow bodies just ahead of me, but in the +circumstances it would have been sheer stark lunacy to have fired. +Probably six or eight times-I did not count-we were commanded to stop, +and we did stop. + +It was very exciting work, but the men never faltered. Of course I went +first, in case one of the beasts had the toothache or otherwise did +not play up to our calculations on good nature. One or the other of the +gunbearers was always just behind me. Only once was any comment made. +Kongoni looked very closely into my face. + +"There are very many lions," he remarked doubtfully. + +"Very many lions," I agreed, as though assenting to a mere statement of +fact. + +Although I am convinced there was no real danger, as long as we stuck to +our plan of campaign, nevertheless it was quite interesting to be for so +long a period so near these great brutes. They led us for a mile or so +along the course of the stream, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the +other. Several times they emerged into better cover, and even into the +open, but always ducked back into the thick again before we ourselves +had followed their trail to the clear. + +At noon we were halted by the usual growl just as we had reached the +edge of the river. So we sat down on the banks and had lunch. + +Finally our chance came. The trail led us, for the dozenth time, from +the high grass into the thicket along the river. We ducked our heads +to enter. Memba Sasa, next my shoulder, snapped his fingers violently. +Following the direction of the brown arm that shot over my shoulder, I +strained my eyes into the dimness of the thicket. At first I could see +nothing at all, but at length a slight motion drew my eye. Then I made +out the silhouette of a lion's head, facing us steadily. One of the +rear guard had again turned to halt us, but this time where he and his +surroundings could be seen. + +Luckily I always use a Sheard gold bead sight, and even in the dimness +of the tree-shaded thicket it showed up well. The beast was only forty +yards away, so I fired at his head. He rolled over without a sound. + +We took the usual great precautions in determining the genuineness of +his demise, then carried him into the open. Strangely enough the bullet +had gone so cleanly into his left eye that it had not even broken the +edge of the eyelid; so that when skinned he did not show a mark. He was +a very decent maned lion, three feet four inches at the shoulder, and +nine feet long as he lay. We found that he had indeed been the rear +guard, and that the rest, on the other side of the thicket, had made off +at the shot. So in spite of the APPARENT danger of the situation, our +calculations had worked out perfectly. Also we had enjoyed a half day's +sport of an intensity quite impossible to be extracted from any other +method of following the lion. + +In trying to guess how any particular lions may act, however, you will +find yourself often at fault. The lion is a very intelligent and crafty +beast, and addicted to tricks. If you follow a lion to a small hill, +it is well to go around that hill on the side opposite to that taken by +your quarry. You are quite likely to meet him for he is clever enough +thus to try to get in your rear. He will lie until you have actually +passed him before breaking off. He will circle ahead, then back to +confuse his trail. And when you catch sight of him in the distance, you +would never suspect that he knew of your presence at all. He saunters +slowly, apparently aimlessly, along pausing often, evidently too bored +to take any interest in life. You wait quite breathlessly for him to +pass behind cover. Then you are going to make a very rapid advance, and +catch his leisurely retreat. But the moment old Leo does pass behind the +cover, his appearance of idle stroller vanishes. In a dozen bounds he is +gone. + +That is what makes lion hunting delightful. There are some regions, +very near settlements, where it is perhaps justifiable to poison these +beasts. If you are a true sportsman you will confine your hound-hunting +to those districts. Elsewhere, as far as playing fair with a noble +beast is concerned, you may as well toss a coin to see which you shall +take-your pack or a strychnine bottle. + + + + + +XIII. ON THE MANAGING OF A SAFARI + +We made our way slowly down the river. As the elevation dropped, the +temperature rose. It was very hot indeed during the day, and in the +evening the air was tepid and caressing, and musical with the hum of +insects. We sat about quite comfortably in our pajamas, and took our +fifteen grains of quinine per week against the fever. + +The character of the jungle along the river changed imperceptibly, the +dhum palms crowding out the other trees; until, at our last camp, were +nothing but palms. The wind in them sounded variously like the patter +or the gathering onrush of rain. On either side the country remained +unchanged, however. The volcanic hills rolled away to the distant +ranges. Everywhere grew sparsely the low thornbrush, opening sometimes +into clear plains, closing sometimes into dense thickets. One morning +we awoke to find that many supposedly sober-minded trees had burst into +blossom fairly over night. They were red, and yellow and white that +before were green, a truly gorgeous sight. + +Then we turned sharp to the right and began to ascend a little tributary +brook coming down the wide flats from a cleft in the hills. This was +prettily named the Isiola, and, after the first mile or so, was not +big enough to afford the luxury of a jungle of its own. Its banks were +generally grassy and steep, its thickets few, and its little trees +isolated in parklike spaces. To either side of it, and almost at its +level, stretched plains, but plains grown with scattered brush and +shrubs so that at a mile or two one's vista was closed. But for all its +scant ten feet of width the Isiola stood upon its dignity as a stream. +We discovered that when we tried to cross. The men floundered waist-deep +on uncertain bottom; the syces received much unsympathetic comment +for their handling of the animals, and we had to get Billy over by a +melodramatic "bridge of life" with B., F., myself, and Memba Sasa in the +title roles. + +Then we pitched camp in the open on the other side, sent the horses back +from the stream until after dark, in fear of the deadly tsetse fly, and +prepared to enjoy a good exploration of the neighbourhood. Whereupon +M'ganga rose up to his gaunt and terrific height of authority, stretched +forth his bony arm at right angles, and uttered between eight and nine +thousand commands in a high dynamic monotone without a single pause for +breath. These, supplemented by about as many more, resulted in (a) a +bridge across the stream, and (b) a banda. + +A banda is a delightful African institution. It springs from nothing in +about two hours, but it takes twenty boys with a vitriolic M'ganga back +of them to bring it about. Some of them carry huge backloads of grass, +or papyrus, or cat-tail rushes, as the case may be; others lug in poles +of various lengths from where their comrades are cutting them by means +of their panga. A panga, parenthetically, is the safari man's substitute +for axe, shovel, pick, knife, sickle, lawn-mower, hammer, gatling +gun, world's library of classics, higher mathematics, grand opera, and +toothpicks. It looks rather like a machete with a very broad end and +a slight curved back. A good man can do extraordinary things with +it. Indeed, at this moment, two boys are with this apparently clumsy +implement delicately peeling some of the small thorn trees, from the +bared trunks of which they are stripping long bands of tough inner bark. + +With these three raw materials-poles, withes, and grass-M'ganga and +his men set to work. They planted their corner and end poles, they laid +their rafters, they completed their framework, binding all with the +tough withes; then deftly they thatched it with the grass. Almost before +we had settled our own affairs, M'ganga was standing before us smiling. +Gone now was his mien of high indignation and swirling energy. + +"Banda naquisha," he informed us. + +And we moved in our table and our canvas chairs; hung up our water +bottles; Billy got out her fancy work. Nothing could be pleasanter +nor more appropriate to the climate than this wide low arbour, open at +either end to the breezes, thatched so thickly that the fierce sun could +nowhere strike through. + +The men had now settled down to a knowledge of what we were like; and +things were going smoothly. At first the African porter will try it on +to see just how easy you are likely to prove. If he makes up his mind +that you really are easy, then you are in for infinite petty annoyance, +and possibly open mutiny. Therefore, for a little while, it is necessary +to be extremely vigilant, to insist on minute performance in all +circumstances where later you might condone an omission. For the same +reason punishment must be more frequent and more severe at the outset. +It is all a matter of watching the temper of the men. If they are +cheerful and willing, you are not nearly as particular as you would +be were their spirit becoming sullen. Then the infraction is not so +important in itself as an excuse for the punishment. For when your men +get sulky, you watch vigilantly for the first and faintest EXCUSE to +inflict punishment. + +This game always seemed to me very fascinating, when played right. It is +often played wrong. People do not look far enough. Because they see +that punishment has a most salutary effect on morale, and is sometimes +efficacious in getting things done that otherwise would lag, they jump +to the conclusion that the only effective way to handle a safari is +by penalties. By this I do not at all mean that they act savagely, or +punish to brutal excess. Merely they hold rigidly to the letter of the +work and the day's discipline. Because it is sometimes necessary +to punish severely slight infractions when the men's tempers need +sweetening, they ALWAYS punish slight infractions severely. + +And in ordinary circumstances this method undoubtedly results in a very +efficient safari. Things are done smartly, on time, with a snap. The +day's march begins without delay; there is a minimum of straggling; on +arrival the tents are immediately got up and the wood and water fetched. +But in a tight place, men so handled by invariable rule are very apt +to sit down apathetically, and put the whole thing up to the white man. +When it comes time to help out they are not there. The contrast with a +well-disposed safari cannot be appreciated by one who has not seen both. + +The safari-man loves a master. He does not for a moment understand any +well-meant but misplaced efforts on your part to lighten his work below +the requirements of custom. Always he will beg you to ease up on him, +to accord him favour; and always he will despise you if you yield. The +relations of man to man, of man to work, are all long since established +by immemorial distauri-custom-and it is not for you or him to change +them lightly. If you know what he should or can do, and hold him rigidly +to it, he will respect and follow you. + +But in order to keep him up to the mark, it is not always advisable to +light into him with a whip, necessary as the whip often is. If he +is sullen, or inclined to make mischief, then that is the crying +requirement. But if he is merely careless, or a little slow, or tired, +you can handle him in other ways. Ridicule before his comrades is very +effective: a sort of good-natured guying, I mean. "Ah! very tired!" +uttered in the right tone of voice has brought many a loiterer to his +feet as effectively as the kick some men feel must always be bestowed, +and quite without anger, mind you! For days at a time we have kept our +men travelling at good speed by commenting, as though by the way, after +we had arrived in camp, on which tribe happened to come in at the head. + +"Ah! Kavirondos came in first to-night," we would remark. "Last night +the Monumwezis were ahead." + +And once, actually, by this method we succeeded in working up such a +feeling of rivalry that the Kikuyus, the unambitious, weak and despised +Kikuyus, led the van! + +But the first hint of insubordination, of intended insolence, of willful +shirking must be met by instant authority. Occasionally, when the +situation is of the quick and sharp variety, the white man may have to +mix in the row himself. He must never hesitate an instant; for the only +reason he alone can control so many is that he has always controlled +them. F. had a very effective blow, or shove, which I found well worth +adopting. It is delivered with the heel of the palm to the man's chin, +and is more of a lifting, heaving shove than an actual blow. Its effect +is immediately upsetting. Impertinence is best dealt with in this manner +on the spot. Evidently intended slowness in coming when called is also +best treated by a flick of the whip-and forgetfulness. And so with a +half dozen others. But any more serious matter should be decided from +the throne of the canvas chair, witness should be heard, judgment +formally pronounced, and execution intrusted to the askaris or +gunbearers. + +It is, as I have said, a most interesting game. It demands three sorts +of knowledge: first what a safari man is capable of doing; second, what +he customarily should or should not do; third, an ability to read the +actual intention or motive back of his actions. When you are able to +punish or hold your hand on these principles, and not merely because +things have or have not gone smoothly or right, then you are a good +safari manager. There are mighty few of them. + +As for punishment, that is quite simply the whip. The average writer +on the country speaks of this with hushed voice and averted face as a +necessity but as something to be deprecated and passed over as quickly +as possible. He does this because he thinks he ought to. As a matter of +fact, such an attitude is all poppycock. In the flogging of a white man, +or a black who suffers from such a punishment in his soul as well as his +body, this is all very well. But the safari man expects it, it +doesn't hurt his feelings in the least, it is ancient custom. As well +sentimentalize over necessary schoolboy punishment, or over father +paddy-whacking little Willie when little Willie has been a bad boy. The +chances are your porter will leap to his feet, crack his heels together +and depart with a whoop of joy, grinning from ear to ear. Or he may draw +himself up and salute you, military fashion, again with a grin. In any +case his "soul" is not "scared" a little bit, and there is no sense in +yourself feeling about it as though it were. + +At another slant the justice you will dispense to your men differs from +our own. Again this is because of the teaching long tradition has made +part of their mental make-up. Our own belief is that it is better to let +two guilty men go than to punish one innocent. With natives it is the +other way about. If a crime is committed the guilty MUST be punished. +Preferably he alone is to be dealt with; but in case it is impossible to +identify him, then all the members of the first inclusive unit must be +brought to account. This is the native way of doing things; is the only +way the native understands; and is the only way that in his mind true +justice is answered. Thus if a sheep is stolen, the thief must be caught +and punished. Suppose, however it is known to what family the thief +belongs, but the family refuses to disclose which of its members +committed the theft: then each member must be punished for sheep +stealing; or, if not the family, then the tribe must make restitution. +But punishment MUST be inflicted. + +There is an essential justice to recommend this, outside the fact that +it has with the native all the solidity of accepted ethics, and +it certainly helps to run the real criminal to earth. The innocent +sometimes suffers innocently, but not very often; and our own records +show that in that respect with us it is the same. This is not the place +to argue the right or wrong of the matter from our own standpoint but to +recognize the fact that it is right from theirs, and to act accordingly. +Thus in cast of theft of meat, or something that cannot be traced, it +is well to call up the witnesses, to prove the alibis, and then to place +the issue squarely up to those that remain. There may be but two, or +there may be a dozen. + +"I know you did not all steal the meat," you must say, "but I know that +one of you did. Unless I know which one that is by to-morrow morning, I +will kiboko all of you. Bass!" + +Perhaps occasionally you may have to kiboko the lot, in the full +knowledge that most are innocent. That seems hard; and your heart will +misgive you. Harden it. The "innocent" probably know perfectly well who +the guilty man is. And the incident builds for the future. + +I had intended nowhere to comment on the politics or policies of the +country. Nothing is more silly than the casual visitor's snap judgments +on how a country is run. Nevertheless, I may perhaps be pardoned for +suggesting that the Government would strengthen its hand, and aid its +few straggling settlers by adopting this native view of retributions. +For instance, at present it is absolutely impossible to identify +individual sheep and cattle stealers. They operate stealthily and at +night. If the Government cannot identify the actual thief, it gives the +matter up. As a consequence a great hardship is inflicted on the settler +and an evil increases. If, however, the Government would hold the +village, the district, or the tribe responsible, and exact just +compensation from such units in every case, the evil would very suddenly +come to an end. And the native's respect for the white man would climb +in the scale. + +Once the safari man gets confidence in his master, that confidence is +complete. The white man's duties are in his mind clearly defined. His +job is to see that the black man is fed, is watered, is taken care of +in every way. The ordinary porter considers himself quite devoid of +responsibility. He is also an improvident creature, for he drinks all +his water when he gets thirsty, no matter how long and hot the journey +before him; he eats his rations all up when he happens to get hungry, +two days before next distribution time; he straggles outrageously at +times and has to be rounded up; he works three months and, on a whim, +deserts two days before the end of his journey, thus forfeiting all his +wages. Once two porters came to us for money. + +"What for?" asked C. + +"To buy a sheep," said they. + +For two months we had been shooting them all the game meat they could +eat, but on this occasion two days had intervened since the last kill. +If they had been on trading safari they would have had no meat at all. +A sheep cost six rupees in that country, and they were getting but ten +rupees a month as wages. In view of the circumstances, and for their +own good, we refused. Another man once insisted on purchasing a cake +of violet-scented soap for a rupee. Their chief idea of a wild time in +Nairobi, after return from a long safari, is to SIT IN A CHAIR and drink +tea. For this they pay exorbitantly at the Somali so-called "hotels." +It is a strange sight. But then, I have seen cowboys off the range or +lumberjacks from the river do equally extravagant and foolish things. + +On the other hand they carry their loads well, they march tremendously, +they know their camp duties and they do them. Under adverse +circumstances they are good-natured. I remember C. and I, being belated +and lost in a driving rain. We wandered until nearly midnight. The four +or five men with us were loaded heavily with the meat and trophy of a +roan. Certainly they must have been very tired; for only occasionally +could we permit them to lay down their loads. Most of the time we were +actually groping, over boulders, volcanic rocks, fallen trees and all +sorts of tribulation. The men took it as a huge joke, and at every pause +laughed consumedly. + +In making up a safari one tries to mix in four or five tribes. This +prevents concerted action in case of trouble, for no one tribe will help +another. They vary both in tribal and individual characteristics, of +course. For example, the Kikuyus are docile but mediocre porters; the +Kavirondos strong carriers but turbulent and difficult to handle. You +are very lucky if you happen on a camp jester, one of the sort that +sings, shouts, or jokes while on the march. He is probably not much as a +porter, but he is worth his wages nevertheless. He may or may not aspire +to his giddy eminence. We had one droll-faced little Kavirondo whose +very expression made one laugh, and whose rueful remarks on the +harshness of his lot finally ended by being funny. His name got to be a +catchword in camp. + +"Mualo! Mualo!" the men would cry, as they heaved their burdens to their +heads; and all day long their war cry would ring out, "Mualo!" followed +by shrieks of laughter. + +Of the other type was Sulimani, a big, one-eyed Monumwezi, who had a +really keen wit coupled with an earnest, solemn manner. This man was no +buffoon, however; and he was a good porter, always at or near the head +of the procession. In the great jungle south of Kenia we came upon +Cuninghame. When the head of our safari reached the spot Sulimani +left the ranks and, his load still aloft danced solemnly in front of +Cuninghame, chanting something in a loud tone of voice. Then with a +final deep "Jambo!" to his old master he rejoined the safari. When +the day had stretched to weariness and the men had fallen to a sullen +plodding, Sulimani's vigorous song could always set the safari sticks +tapping the sides of the chop boxes. + +He carried part of the tent, and the next best men were entrusted with +the cook outfit and our personal effects. It was a point of honour +with these men to be the first in camp. The rear, the very extreme +and straggling rear, was brought up by worthless porters with loads of +cornmeal-and the weary askaris whose duty it was to keep astern and herd +the lot in. + + + + + +XIV. A DAY ON THE ISIOLA + +Early one morning-we were still on the Isiola-we set forth on our horses +to ride across the rolling, brush-grown plain. Our intention was to +proceed at right angles to our own little stream until we had reached +the forest growth of another, which we could dimly make out eight or +ten miles distant. Billy went with us, so there were four a-horseback. +Behind us trudged the gunbearers, and the syces, and after them +straggled a dozen or fifteen porters. + +The sun was just up, and the air was only tepid as yet. From patches of +high grass whirred and rocketed grouse of two sorts. They were so much +like our own ruffed grouse and prairie chicken that I could with no +effort imagine myself once more a boy in the coverts of the Middle West. +Only before us we could see the stripes of trotting zebra disappearing; +and catch the glint of light on the bayonets of the oryx. Two giraffes +galumphed away to the right. Little grass antelope darted from clump +to clump of grass. Once we saw gerenuk-oh, far away in an impossible +distance. Of course we tried to stalk them; and as usual we failed. The +gerenuk we had come to look upon as our Lesser Hoodoo. + +The beast is a gazelle about as big as a black-tailed deer. His +peculiarity is his excessively long neck, a good deal on the giraffe +order. With it he crops browse above high tide mark of other animals, +especially when as often happens he balances cleverly on his hind legs. +By means of it also he can, with his body completely concealed, look +over the top of ordinary cover and see you long before you have made +out his inconspicuous little head. Then he departs. He seems to have +a lamentable lack of healthy curiosity about you. In that respect he +should take lessons from the kongoni. After that you can follow him as +far as you please; you will get only glimpses at three or four hundred +yards. + +We remounted sadly and rode on. The surface of the ground was rather +soft, scattered with round rocks the size of a man's head, and full of +pig holes. + +"Cheerful country to ride over at speed," remarked Billy. Later in the +day we had occasion to remember that statement. + +The plains led us ever on. First would be a band of scattered brush +growing singly and in small clumps: then a little open prairie; then +a narrow, long grass swale; then perhaps a low, long hill with small +single trees and rough, volcanic footing. Ten thousand things kept us +interested. Game was everywhere, feeding singly, in groups, in herds, +game of all sizes and descriptions. The rounded ears of jackals pointed +at us from the grass. Hundreds of birds balanced or fluttered about us, +birds of all sizes from the big ground hornbill to the littlest hummers +and sun birds. Overhead, across the wonderful variegated sky of Africa +the broad-winged carrion hunters and birds of prey wheeled. In all our +stay on the Isiola we had not seen a single rhino track, so we rode +quite care free and happy. + +Finally, across a glade, not over a hundred and fifty yards away, we +saw a solitary bull oryx standing under a bush. B. wanted an oryx. We +discussed this one idly. He looked to be a decent oryx, but nothing +especial. However, he offered a very good shot; so B., after some +hesitation, decided to take it. It proved to be by far the best specimen +we shot, the horns measuring thirty-six and three fourths inches! Almost +immediately after, two of the rather rare striped hyenas leaped from the +grass and departed rapidly over the top of a hill. We opened fire, and +F. dropped one of them. By the time these trophies were prepared, the +sun had mounted high in the heavens, and it was getting hot. + +Accordingly we abandoned that still distant river and swung away in a +wide circle to return to camp. + +Several minor adventures brought us to high noon and the heat of the +day. B. had succeeded in drawing a prize, one of the Grevy's or mountain +zebra. He and the gunbearers engaged themselves with that, while we sat +under the rather scanty shade of a small thorn tree and had lunch. +Here we had a favourable chance to observe that very common, but always +wonderful phenomenon, the gathering of the carrion birds. Within five +minutes after the stoop of the first vulture above the carcass, the sky +immediately over that one spot was fairly darkened with them. They were +as thick as midges-or as ducks used to be in California. All sizes were +there from the little carrion crows to the great dignified vultures and +marabouts and eagles. The small fry flopped and scolded, and rose and +fell in a dense mass; the marabouts walked with dignified pace to and +fro through the grass all about. As far as the eye could penetrate the +blue, it could make out more and yet more of the great soarers stooping +with half bent wings. Below we could see uncertainly through the shimmer +of the mirage the bent forms of the men. + +We ate and waited; and after a little we dozed. I was awakened suddenly +by a tremendous rushing roar, like the sound of a not too distant +waterfall. The group of men were plodding toward us carrying burdens. +And like plummets the birds were dropping straight down from the +heavens, spreading wide their wings at the last moment to check their +speed. This made the roaring sound that had awakened me. + +A wide spot in the shimmer showed black and struggling against the +ground. I arose and walked over, meeting halfway B. and the men carrying +the meat. It took me probably about two minutes to reach the place where +the zebra had been killed. Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of the great +birds were standing idly about; a dozen or so were flapping and +scrambling in the centre. I stepped into view. With a mighty commotion +they all took wing clumsily, awkwardly, reluctantly. A trampled, bloody +space and the larger bones, picked absolutely clean, was all that +remained! In less than two minutes the job had been done! + +"You're certainly good workmen!" I exclaimed, "but I wonder how you all +make a living!" + +We started the men on to camp with the meat, and ourselves rested +under the shade. The day had been a full and interesting one; but we +considered it as finished. Remained only the hot journey back to camp. + +After a half hour we mounted again and rode on slowly. The sun was very +strong and a heavy shimmer clothed the plain. Through this shimmer we +caught sight of something large and black and flapping. It looked like a +crow-or, better, a scare-crow-crippled, half flying, half running, with +waving wings or arms, now dwindling, now gigantic as the mirage caught +it up or let it drop. As we watched, it developed, and we made it out +to be a porter, clad in a long, ragged black overcoat, running zigzag +through the bushes in our direction. + +The moment we identified it we spurred our horses forward. As my horse +leaped, Memba Sasa snatched the Springfield from my left hand and forced +the 405 Winchester upon me. Clever Memba Sasa! He no more than we knew +what was up, but shrewdly concluded that whatever it was it needed a +heavy gun. + +As we galloped to meet him, the porter stopped. We saw him to be a very +long-legged, raggedy youth whom we had nicknamed the Marabout because of +his exceedingly long, lean legs, the fact that his breeches were white, +short and baggy, and because he kept his entire head shaved close. He +called himself Fundi, which means The Expert, a sufficient indication of +his confidence in himself. + +He awaited us leaning on his safari stick, panting heavily, the sweat +running off his face in splashes. "Simba!"* said he, and immediately +set off on a long, easy lope ahead of us. We pulled down to a trot and +followed him. + + * Lion + +At the end of a half mile we made out a man up a tree. Fundi, out of +breath, stopped short and pointed to this man. The latter, as soon as he +had seen us, commenced to scramble down. We spurred forward to find out +where the lions had been last seen. + +Then Billy covered herself with glory by seeing them first. She apprised +us of that fact with some excitement. We saw the long, yellow bodies of +two of them disappearing in the edge of the brush about three hundred +yards away. With a wild whoop we tore after them at a dead run. + +Then began a wild ride. Do you remember Billy's remark about the nature +of the footing? Before long we closed in near enough to catch occasional +glimpses of the beasts, bounding easily along. At that moment B.'s horse +went down in a heap. None of us thought for a moment of pulling up. I +looked back to see B. getting up again, and thought I caught fragments +of encouraging-sounding language. Then my horse went down. I managed to +hold my rifle clear, and to cling to the reins. Did you ever try to +get on a somewhat demoralized horse in a frantic hurry, when all your +friends were getting farther away every minute, and so lessening your +chances of being in the fun? I began to understand perfectly B.'s +remarks of a moment before. However, on I scrambled, and soon overtook +the hunt. + +We dodged in and out of bushes, and around and over holes. Every few +moments we would catch a glimpse of one of those silently bounding +lions, and then we would let out a yell. Also every few moments one +or the other of us would go down in a heap, and would scramble up and +curse, and remount hastily. Billy had better luck. She had no gun, and +belonged a little in the rear anyway, but was coming along game as a +badger for all that. + +My own horse had the legs of the others quite easily, and for that +reason I was ahead far enough to see the magnificent sight of five lions +sideways on, all in a row, standing in the grass gazing at me with a +sort of calm and impersonal dignity. I wheeled my horse immediately so +as to be ready in case of a charge, and yelled to the others to hurry +up. While I sat there, they moved slowly off one after the other, so +that by the time the men had come, the lions had gone. We now had +no difficulty in running into them again. Once more my better animal +brought me to the lead, so that for the second time I drew up facing the +lions, and at about one hundred yards range. One by one they began to +leave as before, very leisurely and haughtily, until a single old maned +fellow remained. He, however, sat there, his great round head peering +over the top of the grass. + +"Well," he seemed to say, "here I am, what do you intend to do about +it?" + +The others arrived, and we all dismounted. B. had not yet killed his +lion, so the shot was his. Billy very coolly came up behind and held +his horse. I should like here to remark that Billy is very terrified of +spiders. F. and I stood at the ready, and B. sat down. + +Riding fast an exciting mile or so, getting chucked on your head two or +three times, and facing your first lion are none of them conducive to +steady shooting. The first shot therefore went high, but the second hit +the lion square in the chest, and he rolled over dead. + +We all danced a little war dance, and congratulated B. and turned to get +the meaning of a queer little gurgling gasp behind us. There was Fundi! +That long-legged scarecrow, not content with running to get us and then +back again, had trailed us the whole distance of our mad chase over +broken ground at terrific speed in order to be in at the death. And he +was just about all in at the death. He could barely gasp his breath, his +eyes stuck out; he looked close to apoplexy. + +"Bwana! bwana!" was all he could say. "Master! master!" + +We shook hands with Fundi. + +"My son," said I, "you're a true sport, and you'll surely get yours +later." + +He did not understand me, but he grinned. The gunbearers began to drift +in, also completely pumped. They set up a feeble shout when they saw +the dead lion. It was a good maned beast, three feet six inches at the +shoulder, and nine feet long. + +We left Fundi with the lion, instructing him to stay there until some +of the other men came up. We remounted and pushed on slowly in hopes of +coming on one of the others. + +Here and there we rode, our courses interweaving, looking eagerly. And +lo! through a tiny opening in the brush we espied one of those elusive +gerenuk standing not over one hundred yards away. Whereupon I dismounted +and did some of the worst shooting I perpetrated in Africa, for I let +loose three times at him before I landed. But land I did, and there was +one Lesser Hoodoo broken. Truly this was our day. + +We measured him and started to prepare the trophy, when to us came +Mavrouki and a porter, quite out of breath, but able to tell us that +they had been scouting around and had seen two of the lions. Then, +instead of leaving one up a tree to watch, both had come pell-mell to +tell us all about it. We pointed this out to them, and called their +attention to the fact that the brush was wide, that lions are not +stationary objects, and that, unlike the leopard, they can change their +spots quite readily. However, we remounted and went to take a look. + +Of course there was nothing. So we rode on, rather aimlessly, weaving +in and out of the bushes and open spaces. I think we were all a little +tired from the long day and the excitement, and hence a bit listless. +Suddenly we were fairly shaken out of our saddles by an angry roar just +ahead. Usually a lion growls, low and thunderous, when he wants, to +warn you that you have gone about far enough; but this one was angry all +through at being followed about so much, and he just plain yelled at us. + +He crouched near a bush forty yards away, and was switching his tail. I +had heard that this was a sure premonition of an instant charge, but I +had not before realized exactly what "switching the tail" meant. I had +thought of it as a slow sweeping from side to side, after the manner +of the domestic cat. This lion's tail was whirling perpendicularly from +right to left, and from left to right with the speed and energy of a +flail actuated by a particularly instantaneous kind of machinery. I +could see only the outline of the head and this vigorous tail; but I +took instant aim and let drive. The whole affair sank out of sight. + +We made a detour around the dead lion without stopping to examine him, +shouting to one of the men to stay and watch the carcass. Billy alone +seemed uninfected with the now prevalent idea that we were likely to +find lions almost anywhere. Her skepticism was justified. We found no +more lions; but another miracle took place for all that. We ran across +the second imbecile gerenuk, and B. collected it! These two were +the only ones we ever got within decent shot of, and they sandwiched +themselves neatly with lions. Truly, it WAS our day. + +After a time we gave it up, and went back to measure and photograph our +latest prize. It proved to be a male, maneless, two inches shorter than +that killed by B., and three feet five and one half inches tall at the +shoulder. My bullet had reached the brain just over the left eye. + +Now, toward sunset, we headed definitely toward camp. The long shadows +and beautiful lights of evening were falling across the hills far the +other side the Isiola. A little breeze with a touch of coolness breathed +down from distant unseen Kenia. We plodded on through the grass quite +happily, noting the different animals coming out to the cool of the +evening. The line of brush that marked the course of the Isiola came +imperceptibly nearer until we could make out the white gleam of the +porters' tents and wisps of smoke curling upward. + +Then a small black mass disengaged itself from the camp and came slowly +across the prairie in our direction. As it approached we made it out +to be our Monumwezis, twenty strong. The news of the lions had reached +them, and they were coming to meet us. They were huddled in a close +knot, their heads inclined toward the centre. Each man carried upright +a peeled white wand. They moved in absolute unison and rhythm, on a +slanting zigzag in our direction: first three steps to the right, then +three to the left, with a strong stamp of the foot between. Their bodies +swayed together. Sulimani led them, dancing backward, his wand upheld. + +"Sheeka!" he enunciated in a piercing half whistle. + +And the swaying men responded in chorus, half hushed, rumbling, with +strong aspiration. + +"Goom zoop! goom zoop!" + +When fifty yards from us, however, the formation broke and they rushed +us with a yell. Our horses plunged in astonishment, and we had hard work +to prevent their bolting, small blame to 'em! The men surrounded us, +shaking our hands frantically. At once they appropriated everything we +or our gunbearers carried. One who got left otherwise insisted on having +Billy's parasol. Then we all broke for camp at full speed, yelling like +fiends, firing our revolvers in the air. It was a grand entry, and a +grand reception. The rest of the camp poured out with wild shouts. The +dark forms thronged about us, teeth flashing, arms waving. And in the +background, under the shadows of the trees were the Monumwezis, their +formation regained, close gathered, heads bent, two steps swaying to +the right-stamp! two steps swaying to the left-stamp!-the white wands +gleaming, and the rumble of their lion song rolling in an undertone: + +"Goom zoop! goom zoop!" + + + + + +XV. THE LION DANCE + +We took our hot baths and sat down to supper most gratefully, for we +were tired. The long string of men, bearing each a log of wood, filed in +from the darkness to add to our pile of fuel. Saa-sita and Shamba knelt +and built the night fire. In a moment the little flame licked up through +the carefully arranged structure. We finished the meal, and the boys +whisked away the table. + +Then out in the blackness beyond our little globe of light we became +aware of a dull confusion, a rustling to and fro. Through the shadows +the eye could guess at movement. The confusion steadied to a kind of +rhythm, and into the circle of the fire came the group of Monumwezis. +Again they were gathered together in a compact little mass; but now they +were bent nearly double, and were stripped to the red blankets about +their waists. Before them writhed Sulimani, close to earth, darting +irregularly now to right, now to left, wriggling, spreading his arms +abroad. He was repeating over and over two phrases; or rather the same +phrase in two such different intonations that they seemed to convey +quite separate meanings. + +"Ka soompeele?" he cried with a strongly appealing interrogation. + +"Ka soompeele!" he repeated with the downward inflection of decided +affirmation. + +And the bent men, their dark bodies gleaming in the firelight, stamping +in rhythm every third step, chorused in a deep rumbling bass: + +"Goom zoop! goom zoop!" + +Thus they advanced; circled between us and the fire, and withdrew to the +half darkness, where tirelessly they continued the same reiterations. + +Hardly had they withdrawn when another group danced forward in their +places. These were the Kikuyus. They had discarded completely their +safari clothes, and now came forth dressed out in skins, in strips of +white cloth, with feathers, shells and various ornaments. They carried +white wands to represent spears, and they sang their tribal lion song. +A soloist delivered the main argument in a high wavering minor and was +followed by a deep rumbling emphatic chorus of repetition, strongly +accented so that the sheer rhythm of it was most pronounced: + +"An-gee a Ka ga An-gee a Ka ga An-gee a Ka ga Ki ya Ka ga Ka ga an gee +ya!" + +Solemnly and loftily, their eyes fixed straight before them they made +the circle of the fire, passed before our chairs, and withdrew to the +half light. There, a few paces from the stamping, crouching Monumwezis, +they continued their performance. + +The next to appear were the Wakambas. These were more histrionic. They +too were unrecognizable as our porters, for they too had for the lion +discarded their work-a-day garments in favour of savage. They produced a +pantomime of the day's doings, very realistic indeed, ending with a half +dozen of dark swaying bodies swinging and shuddering in the long grass +as lions, while the "horses" wove in and out among the crouching forms, +all done to the beat of rhythm. Past us swept the hunt, and in its turn +melted into the half light. + +The Kavirondos next appeared, the most fantastically caparisoned of the +lot, fine big black men, their eyes rolling with excitement. They had +captured our flag from its place before the big tent, and were rallied +close about this, dancing fantastically. Before us they leaped and +stamped and shook their spears and shouted out their full-voiced song, +while the other three tribes danced each its specialty dimly in the +background. + +The dance thus begun lasted for fully two hours. Each tribe took a +turn before us, only to give way to the next. We had leisure to notice +minutiae, such as the ingenious tail one of the "lions" had constructed +from a sweater. As time went on, the men worked themselves to a frenzy. +From the serried ranks every once in a while one would break forth with +a shriek to rush headlong into the fire, to beat the earth about him +with his club, to rush over to shake one of us violently by the hand, +or even to seize one of our feet between his two palms. Then with equal +abruptness back he darted to regain his place among the dancers. Wilder +and wilder became the movements, higher rose the voices. The mock lion +hunt grew more realistic, and the slaughter on both sides something +tremendous. Lower and lower crouched the Monumwezi, drawing apart with +their deep "goom"; drawing suddenly to a common centre with the sharp +"zoop!" Only the Kikuyus held their lofty bearing as they rolled forth +their chant, but the mounting excitement showed in their tense muscles +and the rolling of their eyes. The sweat glistened on naked black and +bronze bodies. Among the Monumwezi to my astonishment I saw Memba Sasa, +stripped like the rest, and dancing with all abandon. The firelight +leaped high among the logs that eager hands cast on it; and the shadows +it threw from the swirling, leaping figures wavered out into a great, +calm darkness. + +The night guard understood a little of the native languages, so he stood +behind our chairs and told us in Swahili the meaning of some of the +repeated phrases. + +"This has been a glorious day; few safaris have had so glorious a day." + +"The masters looked upon the fierce lions and did not run away." + +"Brave men without other weapons will nevertheless kill with a knife." + +"The masters' mothers must be brave women, the masters are so brave." + +"The white woman went hunting, and so were many lions killed." + +The last one pleased Billy. She felt that at last she was appreciated. + +We sat there spellbound by the weird savagery of the spectacle-the great +licking fire, the dancing, barbaric figures, the rise and fall of the +rhythm, the dust and shuffle, the ebb and flow of the dance, the dim, +half-guessed groups swaying in the darkness-and overhead the calm tropic +night. + +At last, fairly exhausted, they stopped. Some one gave a signal. The men +all gathered in one group, uttered a final yell, very like a cheer, and +dispersed. + +We called up the heroes of the day-Fundi and his companion-and made a +little speech, and bestowed appropriate reward. Then we turned in. + + + + + +XVI. FUNDI + +Fundi, as I have suggested, was built very much on the lines of the +marabout stork. He was about twenty years old, carried himself very +erect, and looked one straight in the eye. His total assets when he came +to us were a pair of raggedy white breeches, very baggy, and an old mesh +undershirt, ditto ditto. To this we added a jersey, a red blanket, and a +water bottle. At the first opportunity he constructed himself a pair of +rawhide sandals. + +Throughout the first part of the trip he had applied himself to business +and carried his load. He never made trouble. Then he and his companion +saw five lions; and the chance Fundi had evidently long been awaiting +came to his hand. He ran himself almost into coma, exhibited himself +game, and so fell under our especial and distinguished notice. After +participating whole-heartedly in the lion dance he and his companion +were singled out for Our Distinguished Favour, to the extent of five +rupees per. Thus far Fundi's history reads just like the history of any +ordinary Captain of Industry. + +Next morning, after the interesting ceremony of rewarding the worthy, we +moved on to a new camp. When the line-up was called for, lo! there stood +Fundi, without a load, but holding firmly my double-barrelled rifle. +Evidently he had seized the chance of favour-and the rifle-and intended +to be no longer a porter but a second gunbearer. + +This looked interesting, so we said nothing. Fundi marched the day +through very proudly. At evening he deposited the rifle in the proper +place, and set to work with a will at raising the big tent. + +The day following he tried it again. It worked. The third day he marched +deliberately up past the syce to take his place near me. And the fourth +day, as we were going hunting, Fundi calmly fell in with the rest. +Nothing had been said, but Fundi had definitely grasped his chance to +rise from the ranks. In this he differed from his companion in glory. +That worthy citizen pocketed his five rupees and was never heard from +again; I do not even remember his name nor how he looked. + +I killed a buck of some sort, and Memba Sasa, as usual, stepped forward +to attend to the trophy. But I stopped him. + +"Fundi," said I, "if you are a gunbearer, prepare this beast." + +He stepped up confidently and set to work. I watched him closely. He +did it very well, without awkwardness, though he made one or two minor +mistakes in method. + +"Have you done this before?" I inquired. + +"No, bwana." + +"How did you learn to do it?" + +"I have watched the gunbearers when I was a porter bringing in meat."* + + * Except in the greatest emergencies a gunbearer would never + think of carrying any sort of a burden. + +This was pleasing, but it would never do, at this stage of the game, +to let him think so, neither on his own account nor that of the real +gunbearers. + +"You will bring in meat today also," said I, for I was indeed a +little shorthanded, "and you will learn how to make the top incision +straighter." + +When we had reached camp I handed him the Springfield. + +"Clean this," I told him. + +He departed with it, returning it after a time for my inspection. It +looked all right. I catechized him on the method he had employed-for +high velocities require very especial treatment-and found him letter +perfect. + +"You learned this also by watching?" + +"Yes, bwana, I watched the gunbearers by the fire, evenings." + +Evidently Fundi had been preparing for his chance. + +Next day, as he walked alongside, I noticed that he had not removed the +leather cap, or sight protector, that covers the end of the rifle and is +fastened on by a leather thong. Immediately I called a halt. + +"Fundi," said I, "do you know that the cover should be in your pocket? +Suppose a rhinoceros jumps up very near at hand: how can you get time to +unlace the thong and hand me the rifle?" + +He thrust the rifle at me suddenly. In some magical fashion the sight +cover had disappeared! + +"I have thought of this," said he, "and I have tied the thong, so, in +order that it come away with one pull; and I snatch it off, so, with my +left hand while I am giving you the gun with my right hand. It seemed +good to keep the cover on, for there are many branches, and the sight is +very easy to injure." + +Of course this was good sense, and most ingenious; Fundi bade fair to be +quite a boy, but the native African is very easily spoiled. Therefore, +although my inclination was strongly to praise him, I did nothing of the +sort. + +"A gunbearer carries the gun away from the branches," was my only +comment. + +Shortly after occurred an incident by way of deeper test. We were all +riding rather idly along the easy slope below the foothills. The grass +was short, so we thought we could see easily everything there was to +be seen; but, as we passed some thirty yards from a small tree, an +unexpected and unnecessary rhinoceros rose from an equally unexpected +and unnecessary green hollow beneath the tree, and charged us. He made +straight for Billy. Her mule, panic-stricken, froze with terror in spite +of Billy's attack with a parasol. I spurred my own animal between her +and the charging brute, with some vague idea of slipping off the other +side as the rhino struck. F. and B. leaped from their own animals, and +F., with a little.28 calibre rifle, took a hasty shot at the big brute. +Now, of course a.28 calibre rifle would hardly injure a rhino, but the +bullet happened to catch his right shoulder just as he was about to come +down on his right foot. The shock tripped him up as neatly as though he +had been upset by a rope. At the same instant Billy's mule came to its +senses and bolted, whereupon I too jumped off. The whole thing took +about two finger snaps of time. At the instant I hit the ground, Fundi +passed the double rifle across the horse's back to me. + +Note two things to the credit of Fundi: in the first place, he had not +bolted; in the second place, instead of running up to the left side of +my mount and perhaps colliding with and certainly confusing me, he had +come up on the right side and passed the rifle to me ACROSS the horse. +I do not know whether or not he had figured this out beforehand, but it +was cleverly done. + +The rhinoceros rolled over and over, like a shot rabbit, kicked for a +moment, and came to his feet. We were now all ready for him, in battle +array, but he had evidently had enough. He turned at right angles and +trotted off, apparently-and probably-none the worse for the little +bullet in his shoulder. + +Fundi now began acquiring things that he supposed befitting to his +dignity. The first of these matters was a faded fez, in which he stuck +a long feather. From that he progressed in worldly wealth. How he got +it all, on what credit, or with what hypnotic power, I do not know. +Probably he hypothecated his wages, certainly he had his five rupees. + +At any rate he started out with a ragged undershirt and a pair of white, +baggy breeches. He entered Nairobi at the end of the trip with a cap, +a neat khaki shirt, two water bottles, a cartridge belt, a sash with a +tassel, a pair of spiral puttees, an old pair of shoes, and a personal +private small boy, picked up en route from some of the savage tribes, +to carry his cooking pot, make his fires, draw his water, +and generally perform his lordly behests. This was indeed +"more-than-oriental-splendour!" + +From now on Fundi considered himself my second gunbearer. I had no use +for him, but Fundi's development interested me, and I wanted to give +him a chance. His main fault at first was eagerness. He had to be rapped +pretty sharply and a good number of times before he discovered that +he really must walk in the rear. His habit of calling my attention to +perfectly obvious things I cured by liberal sarcasm. His intense desire +to take his own line as perhaps opposed to mine when we were casting +about on trail, I abated kindly but firmly with the toe of my boot. His +evident but mistaken tendency to consider himself on an equality with +Memba Sasa we both squelched by giving him the hard and dirty work to +do. But his faults were never those of voluntary omission, and he came +on surprisingly; in fact so surprisingly that he began to get quite +cocky over it. Not that he was ever in the least aggressive or +disrespectful or neglectful-it would have been easy to deal with that +sort of thing-but he carried his head pretty high, and evidently began +to have mental reservations. Fundi needed a little wholesome discipline. +He was forgetting his porter days, and was rapidly coming to consider +himself a full-fledged gunbearer. + +The occasion soon arose. We were returning from a buffalo hunt and ran +across two rhinoceroses, one of which carried a splendid horn. B. +wanted a well developed specimen very much, so we took this chance. The +approach was easy enough, and at seventy yards or so B. knocked her flat +with a bullet from his.465 Holland. The beast was immediately afoot, but +was as promptly smothered by shots from us all. So far the affair was +very simple, but now came complication. The second rhinoceros refused to +leave. We did not want to kill it, so we spent a lot of time and pains +shooing it away. We showered rocks and clods of earth in his direction; +we yelled sharply and whistled shrilly. The brute faced here and there, +his pig eyes blinking, his snout upraised, trying to locate us, and +declining to budge. At length he gave us up as hopeless, and trotted +away slowly. We let him go, and when we thought he had quite departed, +we approached to examine B.'s trophy. + +Whereupon the other craftily returned; and charged us, snorting like +an engine blowing off steam. This was a genuine premeditated charge, +as opposed to a blind rush, and it is offered as a good example of the +sort. + +The rhinoceros had come fairly close before we got into action. He +headed straight for F. and myself, with B. a little to one side. Things +happened very quickly. F. and I each planted a heavy bullet in his head; +while B. sent a lighter Winchester bullet into the ribs. The rhino went +down in a heap eleven yards away, and one of us promptly shot him in the +spine to finish him. + +Personally I was entirely concentrated in the matter at hand-as is +always the way in crises requiring action-and got very few impressions +from anything outside. Nevertheless I imagined, subconsciously that I +had heard four shots. F. and B. disclaimed more than one apiece, so I +concluded myself mistaken, exchanged my heavy rifle with Fundi for the +lighter Winchester, and we started for camp, leaving all the boys +to attend to the dead rhinos. At camp I threw down the lever of my +Winchester-and drew out an exploded shell! + +Here was a double crime on Fundi's part. In the first place, he +had fired the gun, a thing no bearer is supposed ever to do in any +circumstances short of the disarmament and actual mauling of his master. +Naturally this is so, for the white man must be able in an emergency to +depend ABSOLUTELY on his second gun being loaded and ready for his need. +In the second place, Fundi had given me an empty rifle to carry home. +Such a weapon is worse than none in case of trouble; at least I could +have gone up a tree in the latter case. I would have looked sweet +snapping that old cartridge at anything dangerous! + +Therefore after supper we stationed ourselves in a row before the fire, +seated in our canvas chairs, and with due formality sent word that we +wanted all the gunbearers. They came and stood before us. Memba Sasa +erect, military, compact, looking us straight in the eye; Mavrouki +slightly bent forward, his face alive with the little crafty, +calculating smile peculiar to him; Simba, tall and suave, standing with +much social ease; and Fundi, a trifle frightened, but uncertain as to +whether or not he had been found out. + +We stated the matter in a few words. + +"Gunbearers, this man Fundi, when the rhinoceros charged, fired Winchi. +Was this the work of a gunbearer?" + +The three seasoned men looked at each other with shocked astonishment +that such depravity could exist. + +"And being frightened, he gave back Winchi with the exploded cartridge +in her. Was that the work of a gunbearer?" + +"No, bwana," said Fundi humbly. + +"You, the gunbearers, have been called because we wish to know what +should be done with this man Fundi." + +It should be here explained that it is not customary to kiboko, or flog, +men of the gunbearer class. They respect themselves and their calling, +and would never stand that sort of punishment. When one blunders, a +sarcastic scolding is generally sufficient; a more serious fault may +be punished on the spot by the white man's fist; or a really bad +dereliction may cause the man's instant degradation from the post. With +this in mind we had called the council of gunbearers. Memba Sasa spoke. + +"Bwana," said he, "this man is not a true gunbearer. He is no longer +a true porter. He carries a gun in the field, like a gunbearer; and he +knows much of the duty of gunbearer. Also he does not run away nor climb +trees. But he carries in the meat; and he is not a real gunbearer. He is +half porter and half gunbearer." + +"What punishment shall he have?" + +"Kiboko," said they. + +"Thank you. Bass!" + +They went, leaving Fundi. We surveyed him, quietly. + +"You a gunbearer!" said we at last. "Memba Sasa says you are half +gunbearer. He was wrong. You are all porter; and you know no more than +they do. It is in our mind to put you back to carrying a load. If you do +not wish to taste the kiboko, you can take a load to-morrow." + +"The kiboko, bwana," pleaded Fundi, very abashed and humble. + +"Furthermore," we added crushingly, "you did not even hit the +rhinoceros!" + +So with all ceremony he got the kiboko. The incident did him a lot of +good, and toned down his exuberance somewhat. Nevertheless he still +required a good deal of training, just as does a promising bird dog in +its first season. Generally his faults were of over-eagerness. Indeed, +once he got me thoroughly angry in face of another rhinoceros by dancing +just out of reach with the heavy rifle, instead of sticking close to me +where I could get at him. I temporarily forgot the rhino, and advanced +on Fundi with the full intention of knocking his fool head off. +Whereupon this six feet something of most superb and insolent pride +wilted down to a small boy with his elbow before his face. + +"Don't hit, bwana! Don't hit!" he begged. + +The whole thing was so comical, especially with Memba Sasa standing +by virtuous and scornful, that I had hard work to keep from laughing. +Fortunately the rhinoceros behaved himself. + +The proud moment of Fundi's life was when safari entered Nairobi at the +end of the first expedition. He had gone forth with a load on his head, +rags on his back, and his only glory was the self-assumed one of the +name he had taken-Fundi, the Expert. He returned carrying a rifle, +rigged from top to toe in new garments and fancy accoutrements, followed +by a toro, or small boy, he had bought from some of the savage tribes to +carry his blanket and cooking pot for him. To the friends who darted out +to the line of march, he was gracious, but he held his head high, and +had no time for mere persiflage. + +I did not take Fundi on my second expedition, for I had no real use for +a second gunbearer. Several times subsequently I saw him on the streets +of Nairobi. Always he came up to greet me, and ask solicitously if I +would not give him a job. This I was unable to do. When we paid off, I +had made an addition to his porter's wages, and had written him a chit. +This said that the boy had the makings of a gunbearer with further +training. It would have been unfair to possible white employers to have +said more. Fundi was, when I left the country, precisely in the position +of any young man who tries to rise in the world. He would not again take +a load as porter, and he was not yet skilled enough or known enough to +pick up more than stray jobs as gunbearer. Before him was struggle and +hard times, with a certainty of a highly considered profession if he won +through. Behind him was steady work without outlets for ambition. It +was distinctly up to him to prove whether he had done well to reach for +ambition, or whether he would have done better in contentment with his +old lot. And that is in essence a good deal like our own world isn't it? + + + + + +XVII. NATIVES + +Up to this time, save for a few Masai at the very beginning of our trip, +we had seen no natives at all. Only lately, the night of the lion dance, +one of the Wanderobo-the forest hunters-had drifted in to tell us of +buffalo and to get some meat. He was a simple soul, small and capable, +of a beautiful red-brown, with his hair done up in a tight, short queue. +He wore three skewers about six inches long thrust through each of his +ears, three strings of blue beads on his neck, a bracelet tight around +his upper arm, a bangle around his ankle, a pair of rawhide sandals, and +about a half yard of cotton cloth which he hung from one shoulder. +As weapons he carried a round-headed, heavy club, or runga, and a +long-bladed spear. He led us to buffalo, accepted a thirty-three cent +blanket, and made fire with two sticks in about thirty seconds. The only +other evidences of human life we had come across were a few beehives +suspended in the trees. These were logs, bored hollow and stopped at +either end. Some of them were very quaintly carved. They hung in the +trees like strange fruits. + +Now, however, after leaving the Isiola, we were to quit the game country +and for days travel among the swarming millions of the jungle. + +A few preliminary and entirely random observations may be permitted me +by way of clearing the ground for a conception of these people. These +observations do not pretend to be ethnological, nor even common logical. + +The first thing for an American to realize is that our own negro +population came mainly from the West Coast, and differed utterly from +these peoples of the highlands in the East. Therefore one must first of +all get rid of the mental image of our own negro "dressed up" in savage +garb. Many of these tribes are not negro at all-the Somalis, the Nandi, +and the Masai, for example-while others belong to the negroid and +Nilotic races. Their colour is general cast more on the red-bronze than +the black, though the Kavirondos and some others are black enough. The +texture of their skin is very satiny and wonderful. This perfection is +probably due to the constant anointing of the body with oils of various +sorts. As a usual thing they are a fine lot physically. The southern +Masai will average between six and seven feet in height, and are almost +invariably well built. Of most tribes the physical development is +remarkably strong and graceful; and a great many of the women will +display a rounded, firm, high-breasted physique in marked contrast to +the blacks of the lowlands. Of the different tribes possibly the Kikuyus +are apt to count the most weakly and spindly examples: though some of +these people, perhaps a majority, are well made. + +Furthermore, the native differentiates himself still further in +impression from our negro in his carriage and the mental attitude that +lies behind it. Our people are trying to pattern themselves on white +men, and succeed in giving a more or less shambling imitation thereof. +The native has standards, ideas, and ideals that perfectly satisfy him, +and that antedated the white man's coming by thousands of years. The +consciousness of this reflects itself in his outward bearing. He does +not shuffle; he is not either obsequious or impudent. Even when he +acknowledges the white man's divinity and pays it appropriate respect, +he does not lose the poise of his own well-worked-out attitude toward +life and toward himself. + +We are fond of calling these people primitive. In the world's standard +of measurement they are primitive, very primitive indeed. But ordinarily +by that term, we mean also undeveloped, embryonic. In that sense we are +wrong. Instead of being at the very dawn of human development, these +people are at the end-as far as they themselves are concerned. The +original racial impulse that started them down the years toward +development has fulfilled its duty and spent its force. They have worked +out all their problems, established all their customs, arranged the +world and its phenomena in a philosophy to their complete satisfaction. +They have lived, ethnologists tell us, for thousands, perhaps hundreds +of thousands of years, just as we find them to-day. From our standpoint +that is in a hopeless intellectual darkness, for they know absolutely +nothing of the most elementary subjects of knowledge. From their +standpoint, however, they have reached the highest DESIRABLE pinnacle +of human development. Nothing remains to be changed. Their customs, +religions, and duties have been worked out and immutably established +long ago; and nobody dreams of questioning either their wisdom or their +imperative necessity. They are the conservatives of the world. + +Nor must we conclude-looking at them with the eyes of our own +civilization-that the savage is, from his standpoint, lazy and idle. +His life is laid out more rigidly than ours will be for a great many +thousands of years. From childhood to old age he performs his every act +in accord with prohibitions and requirements. He must remember them all; +for ignorance does not divert consequences. He must observe them all; in +pain of terrible punishments. For example, never may he cultivate on +the site of a grave; and the plants that spring up from it must never +be cut.* He must make certain complicated offerings before venturing to +harvest a crop. On crossing the first stream of a journey he must touch +his lips with the end of his wetted bow, wade across, drop a stone on +the far side, and then drink. If he cuts his nails, he must throw the +parings into a thicket. If he drink from a stream, and also cross it, +he must eject a mouthful of water back into the stream. He must be +particularly careful not to look his mother-in-law in the face. Hundreds +of omens by the manner of their happening may modify actions, as, on +what side of the road a woodpecker calls, or in which direction a hyena +or jackal crosses the path, how the ground hornbill flies or alights, +and the like. He must notice these things, and change his plans +according to their occurrence. If he does not notice them, they exercise +their influence just the same. This does not encourage a distrait +mental attitude. Also it goes far to explain otherwise unexplainable +visitations. Truly, as Hobley says in his unexcelled work on the +A-Kamba, "the life of a savage native is a complex matter, and he is +hedged round by all sorts of rules and prohibitions, the infringement +of which will probably cause his death, if only by the intense belief he +has in the rules which guide his life." + + * Customs are not universal among the different tribes. I am + merely illustrating. + +For these rules and customs he never attempts to give a reason. They +are; and that is all there is to it. A mere statement: "This is the +custom" settles the matter finally. There is no necessity, nor passing +thought even, of finding any logical cause. The matter was worked out +in the mental evolution of remote ancestors. At that time, perhaps, +insurgent and Standpatter, Conservative and Radical fought out the +questions of the day, and the Muckrakers swung by their tails and +chattered about it. Those days are all long since over. The questions +of the world are settled forever. The people have passed through the +struggles of their formative period to the ultimate highest perfection +of adjustment to material and spiritual environment of which they were +capable under the influence of their original racial force. + +Parenthetically, it is now a question whether or not an added impulse +can be communicated from without. Such an impulse must (a) unsettle all +the old beliefs, (b) inspire an era of skepticism, (c) reintroduce the +old struggle of ideas between the Insurgent and the Standpatter, and +Radical and the Conservative, (d) in the meantime furnish, from the +older civilization, materials, both in the thought-world and in the +object-world, for building slowly a new set of customs more closely +approximating those we are building for ourselves. This is a longer +and slower and more complicated affair than teaching the native to wear +clothes and sing hymns; or to build houses and drink gin; but it is what +must be accomplished step by step before the African peoples are really +civilized. I, personally, do not think it can be done. + +Now having, a hundred thousand years or so ago, worked out the highest +good of the human race, according to them, what must they say to +themselves and what must their attitude be when the white man has come +and has unrolled his carpet of wonderful tricks? The dilemma is evident. +Either we, as black men, must admit that our hundred-thousand-year-old +ideas as to what constitutes the highest type of human relation to +environment is all wrong, or else we must evolve a new attitude toward +this new phenomena. It is human nature to do the latter. Therefore the +native has not abandoned his old gods; nor has he adopted a new. He +still believes firmly that his way is the best way of doing things, but +he acknowledges the Superman. + +To the Superman, with all races, anything is possible. Only our Superman +is an idea, and ideal. The native has his Superman before him in the +actual flesh. + +We will suppose that our own Superman has appeared among us, +accomplishing things that apparently contravene all our established +tenets of skill, of intellect, of possibility. It will be readily +acknowledged that such an individual would at first create some +astonishment. He wanders into a crowded hotel lobby, let us say, +evidently with the desire of going to the bar. Instead of pushing +laboriously through the crowd, he floats just above their heads, gets +his drink, and floats out again! That is levitation, and is probably +just as simple to him as striking a match is to you and me. After we +get thoroughly accustomed to him and his life, we are no longer vastly +astonished, though always interested, at the various manifestations +of his extraordinary powers. We go right along using the marvellous +wireless, aeroplanes, motor cars, constructive machinery, and the +like that make us confident-justly, of course-in that we are about the +smartest lot of people on earth. And if we see red, white, and blue +streamers of light crossing the zenith at noon, we do not manifest any +very profound amazement. "There's that confounded Superman again," we +mutter, if we happen to be busy. "I wonder what stunt he's going to do +now!" + +A consideration of the above beautiful fable may go a little way toward +explaining the supposed native stolidity in the face of the white man's +wonders. A few years ago some misguided person brought a balloon to +Nairobi. The balloon interested the white people a lot, but everybody +was chiefly occupied wondering what the natives would do when they saw +THAT! The natives did not do anything. They gathered in large numbers, +and most interestedly watched it go up, and then went home again. But +they were not stricken with wonder to any great extent. So also with +locomotives, motor cars, telephones, phonographs-any of our modern +ingenuities. The native is pleased and entertained, but not astonished. +"Stupid creature, no imagination," say we, because our pride in showing +off is a wee bit hurt. + +Why should he be astonished? His mental revolution took place when he +saw the first match struck. It is manifestly impossible for any one to +make fire instantaneously by rubbing one small stick. When for the first +time he saw it done, he was indeed vastly astounded. The immutable had +been changed. The law had been transcended. The impossible had been +accomplished. And then, as logical sequence, his mind completed the +syllogism. If the white man can do this impossibility, why not all the +rest? To defy the laws of nature by flying in the air or forcing great +masses of iron to transport one, is no more wonderful than to defy +them by striking a light. Since the white man can provedly do one, what +earthly reason exists why he should not do anything else that hits his +fancy? There is nothing to get astonished at. + +This does not necessarily mean that the native looks on the white man +as a god. On the contrary, your African is very shrewd in the reading of +character. But indubitably white men possess great magic, uncertain in +its extent. + +That is as far as I should care to go, without much deeper acquaintance, +into the attitude of the native mind toward the whites. A superficial +study of it, beyond the general principals I have enunciated, discloses +many strange contradictions. The native respects the white man's warlike +skill, he respects his physical prowess, he certainly acknowledges +tacitly his moral superiority in the right to command. In case of +dispute he likes the white man's adjudication; in case of illness the +man's medicine; in case of trouble the white man's sustaining hand. Yet +he almost never attempts to copy the white man's appearance or ways of +doing things. His own savage customs and habits he fulfils with as much +pride as ever in their eternal fitness. Once I was badgering Memba Sasa, +asking him whether he thought the white skin or the black skin the more +ornamental. "You are not white," he retorted at last. "That," pointing +to a leaf of my notebook, "is white. You are red. I do not like the +looks of red people." + +They call our speech the "snake language," because of its hissing sound. +Once this is brought to your attention, indeed, you cannot help noticing +the superabundance of the sibilants. + +A queer melange the pigeonholes of an African's brain must contain-fear +and respect, strongly mingled with clear estimate of intrinsic character +of individuals and a satisfaction with his own standards. + +Nor, I think, do we realize sufficiently the actual fundamental +differences between the African and our peoples. Physically they must +be in many ways as different from our selves as though they actually +belonged to a different species. The Masai are a fine big race, +enduring, well developed and efficient. They live exclusively on cow's +milk mixed with blood; no meat, no fruit, no vegetables, no grain; +just that and nothing more. Obviously they must differ from us most +radically, or else all our dietetic theories are wrong. It is a +well-known fact that any native requires a triple dose of white man's +medicine. Furthermore a native's sensitiveness to pain is very much +less than the white man's. This is indubitable. For example, the Wakamba +file-or, rather, chip, by means of a small chisel-all their front +teeth down to needle points, When these happen to fall out, the warrior +substitutes an artificial tooth which he drives down into the socket. +If the savage got the same effects from such a performance that a white +man's dental system would arouse, even "savage stoicism" would hardly +do him much good. There is nothing to be gained by multiplying examples. +Every African traveller can recall a thousand. + +Incidentally, and by the way, I want to add to the milk-and-blood joke +on dietetics another on the physical culturists. We are all familiar +with the wails over the loss of our toe nails. You know what I mean; +they run somewhat like this: shoes are the curse of civilization; if +we wear them much longer we shall not only lose the intended use of our +feet, but we shall lose our toe nails as well; the savage man, etc., +etc., etc. Now I saw a great many of said savage men in Africa, and I +got much interested in their toe nails, because I soon found that our +own civilized "imprisoned" toe nails were very much better developed. In +fact, a large number of the free and untramelled savages have hardly any +toe nails at all! Whether this upsets a theory, nullifies a sentimental +protest, or merely stands as an exception, I should not dare guess. But +the fact is indubitable. + + + + + +XVIII. IN THE JUNGLE (a) THE MARCH TO MERU + +Now, one day we left the Isiola River and cut across on a long upward +slant to the left. In a very short time we had left the plains, and were +adrift in an ocean of brown grass that concealed all but the bobbing +loads atop the safari, and over which we could only see when mounted. It +was glorious feed, apparently, but it contained very few animals for all +that. An animal could without doubt wax fat and sleek therein: but only +to furnish light and salutary meals to beasts of prey. Long grass makes +easy stalking. We saw a few ostriches, some giraffe, and three or +four singly adventurous oryx. The ripening grasses were softer than a +rippling field grain; and even more beautiful in their umber and browns. +Although apparently we travelled a level, nevertheless in the extreme +distance the plains of our hunting were dropping below, and the far off +mountains were slowly rising above the horizon. On the other side were +two very green hills, looking nearly straight up and down, and through a +cleft the splintered snow-clad summit of Mt. Kenia. + +At length this gentle foothill slope broke over into rougher country. +Then, in the pass, we came upon many parallel beaten paths, wider and +straighter than the game trails-native tracks. That night we camped in +a small, round valley under some glorious trees, with green grass around +us; a refreshing contrast after the desert brown. In the distance ahead +stood a big hill, and at its base we could make out amid the tree-green, +the straight slim smoke of many fires and the threads of many roads. + +We began our next morning's march early, and we dropped over the hill +into a wide, cultivated valley. Fields of grain, mostly rape, were +planted irregularly among big scattered trees. The morning air, warming +under the sun, was as yet still, and carried sound well. The cooing, +chattering and calling of thousands of birds mingled with shouts and the +clapping together of pieces of wood. As we came closer we saw that every +so often scaffolds had been erected overlooking the grain, and on these +scaffolds naked boys danced and yelled and worked clappers to scare the +birds from the crops. They seemed to put a great deal of rigour into the +job; whether from natural enthusiasm or efficient direful supervision I +could not say. Certainly they must have worked in watches, however; no +human being could keep up that row continuously for a single day, let +alone the whole season of ripening grain. As we passed they fell silent +and stared their fill. + +On the banks of a boggy little stream that we had to flounder across we +came on a gentleman and lady travelling. They were a tall, well formed +pair, mahogany in colour, with the open, pleasant expression of most of +these jungle peoples. The man wore a string around his waist into which +was thrust a small leafy branch; the woman had on a beautiful skirt made +by halving a banana leaf, using the stem as belt, and letting the leaf +part hang down as a skirt. Shortly after meeting these people we turned +sharp to the right on a well beaten road. + +For nearly two weeks we were to follow this road, so it may be as well +to get an idea of it. Its course was a segment of about a sixth of the +circle of Kenia's foothills. With Kenia itself as a centre, this road +swung among the lower elevations about the base of that great mountain. +Its course was mainly down and up hundreds of the canyons radiating from +the main peak, and over the ridges between them. No sooner were we down, +than we had to climb up; and no sooner were we up, than once more down +we had to plunge. At times, however, we crossed considerable plateaus. +Most of this country was dense jungle, so dense that we could not see +on either side more than fifteen or twenty feet. Occasionally, atop the +ridges, however, we would come upon small open parks. In these jungles +live millions of human beings. + +At once, as soon as we had turned into the main road, we began to meet +people. In the grain fields of the valley we saw only the elevated boys, +and a few men engaged in weaving a little house perched on stilts. We +came across some of these little houses all completed, with conical +roofs. They were evidently used for granaries. As we mounted the slope +on the other side, however, the trees closed in, and we found ourselves +marching down the narrow aisle of the jungle itself. + +It was a dense and beautiful jungle, with very tall trees and the +deepest shade; and the impenetrable tangle to the edge of the track. +Among the trees were the broad leaves of bananas and palms, the fling +of leafy vines. Over the track these leaned, so that we rode through +splashing and mottling shade. Nothing could have seemed wilder than +this apparently impenetrable and yet we had ridden but a short distance +before we realized that we were in fact passing through cultivated land. +It was, again, only a difference in terms. Native cultivation in this +district rarely consists of clearing land and planting crops in due +order, but in leaving the forest proper as it is, and in planting +foodstuffs haphazard wherever a tiny space can be made for even three +hills of corn or a single banana. Thus they add to rather than subtract +from the typical density of the jungle. At first, we found, it took some +practice to tell a farm when we saw it. + +From the track narrow little paths wound immediately out of sight. +Sometimes we saw a wisp of smoke rising above the undergrowth and +eddying in the tops of the trees. Long vine ropes swung from point to +point, hung at intervals with such matters as feathers, bones, miniature +shields, carved sticks, shells and clappers: either as magic or to keep +off the birds. From either side the track we were conscious always of +bright black eyes watching us. Sometimes we caught a glimpse of their +owners crouched in the bush, concealed behind banana leaves, motionless +and straight against a tree trunk. When they saw themselves observed +they vanished without a sound. + +The upper air was musical with birds, and bright with the flutter of +their wings. Rarely did we see them long enough to catch a fair idea of +their size and shape. They flashed from shade to shade, leaving only +an impression of brilliant colour. There were some exceptions: as the +widower-bird, dressed all in black, with long trailing wing-plumes of +which he seemed very proud; and the various sorts of green pigeons and +parrots. There were many flowering shrubs and trees, and the air was +laden with perfume. Strange, too, it seemed to see tall trees with +leaves three or four feet long and half as many wide. + +We were riding a mile or so ahead of the safari. At first we were +accompanied only by our gunbearers and syces. Before long, however, we +began to accumulate a following. + +This consisted at first of a very wonderful young man, probably a +chief's son. He carried a long bright spear, wore a short sword thrust +through a girdle, had his hair done in three wrapped queues, one over +each temple and one behind, and was generally brought to a high state +of polish by means of red earth and oil. About his knee he wore a little +bell that jingled pleasingly at every step. From one shoulder hung a +goat-skin cloak embroidered with steel beads. A small package neatly +done up in leaves probably contained his lunch. He teetered along with a +mincing up and down step, every movement, and the expression of his face +displaying a fatuous self-satisfaction. When we looked back again this +youth had magically become two. Then appeared two women and a white +goat. All except the goat were dressed for visiting, with long chains of +beads, bracelets and anklets, and heavy ornaments in the distended ear +lobes. The manner people sprang apparently out of the ground was very +disconcerting. It was a good deal like those fairy-story moving pictures +where a wave of the wand produces beautiful ladies. By half an hour +we had acquired a long retinue-young warriors, old men, women and +innumerable children. After we had passed, the new recruits stepped +quietly from the shadow of the jungle and fell in. Every one with +nothing much to do evidently made up his mind he might as well go to +Meru now as any other time. + +Also we met a great number of people going in the other direction. Women +were bearing loads of yams. Chiefs' sons minced along, their spears +poised in their left hands at just the proper angle, their bangles +jingling, their right hands carried raised in a most affected manner. +Their social ease was remarkable, especially in contrast with the +awkwardness of the lower poverty-stricken or menial castes. The latter +drew one side to let us pass, and stared. Our chiefs' sons, on the other +hand, stepped springingly and beamingly forward; spat carefully in their +hands (we did the same); shook hands all down the line: exchanged +a long-drawn "moo-o-ga!" with each of us; and departed at the same +springing rapid gait. The ordinary warriors greeted us, but did not +offer to shake hands, thank goodness! There were a great many of them. +Across the valleys and through the open spaces the sun, as it struck +down the trail, was always flashing back from distant spears. Twice we +met flocks of sheep being moved from one point to another. Three or four +herdsmen and innumerable small boys seemed to be in charge. Occasionally +we met a real chief or headman of a village, distinguished by the +fact that he or a servant carried a small wooden stool. With these +dignitaries we always stopped to exchange friendly words. + +These comprised the travelling public. The resident public also showed +itself quite in evidence. Once our retainers had become sufficiently +numerous to inspire confidence, the jungle people no longer hid. On +the contrary, they came out to the very edge of the track to exchange +greetings. They were very good-natured, exceedingly well-formed, and +quite jocular with our boys. Especially did our suave and elegant Simba +sparkle. This resident public, called from its daily labours and duties, +did not always show as gaudy a make-up as did the dressed-up travelling +public. Banana leaves were popular wear, and seemed to us at once pretty +and fresh. To be sure some had rather withered away; but even wool will +shrink. We saw some grass skirts, like the Sunday-school pictures. + +At noon we stopped under a tree by a little stream for lunch. Before +long a dozen women were lined up in front of us staring at Billy with +all their might. She nodded and smiled at them. Thereupon they sent +one of their number away. The messenger returned after a few moments +carrying a bunch of the small eating bananas which she laid at our feet. +Billy fished some beads out of her saddle bags, and presented them. +Friendly relations having been thus fully established, two or three of +the women scurried hastily away, to return a few moments later each with +her small child. To these infants they carefully and earnestly pointed +out Billy and her wonders, talking in a tongue unknown to us. The +admonition undoubtedly ran something like this: + +"Now, my child, look well at this: for when you get to be a very old +person you will be able to look back at the day when with your own +eyes you beheld a white woman. See all the strange things she wears-and +HASN'T she a funny face?" + +We offered these bung-eyed and totally naked youngsters various bribes +in the way of beads, the tinfoil from chocolate, and even a small piece +of the chocolate itself. Most of them howled and hid their faces against +their mothers. The mothers looked scandalized, and hypocritically +astounded, and mortified. + +They made remarks, still in an unknown language, but which much past +experience enabled me to translate very readily: + +"I don't know what has got into little Willie," was the drift of it. "I +have never known him to act this way before. Why, only yesterday I was +saying to his father that it really seemed as though that child NEVER +cried-" + +It made me feel quite friendly and at home. + +Now at last came two marvellous and magnificent personages before +whom the women and children drew back to a respectful distance. These +potentates squatted down and smiled at us engagingly. Evidently this was +a really important couple, so we called up Simba, who knew the language, +and had a talk. + +They were old men, straight, and very tall, with the hawk-faced, +high-headed dignity of the true aristocrat. Their robes were voluminous, +of some short-haired skins, beautifully embroidered. Around their arms +were armlets of polished buffalo horn. They wore most elaborate ear +ornaments, and long cased marquise rings extending well beyond the first +joints of the fingers. Very fine old gentlemen. They were quite unarmed. + +After appropriate greetings, we learned that these were the chief +and his prime minister of a nearby village hidden in the jungle. We +exchanged polite phrases; then offered tobacco. This was accepted. +From the jungle came a youth carrying more bananas. We indicated our +pleasure. The old men arose with great dignity and departed, sweeping +the women and children before them. + +We rode on. Our acquired retinue, which had waited at a respectful +distance, went on too. I suppose they must have desired the prestige +of being attached to Our Persons. In the depths of the forest Billy +succumbed to the temptation to bargain, and made her first trade. Her +prize was a long water gourd strapped with leather and decorated with +cowry shells. Our boys were completely scandalized at the price she paid +for it, so I fear the wily savage got ahead of her. + +About the middle of the afternoon we sat down to wait for the safari to +catch up. It would never do to cheat our boys out of their anticipated +grand entrance to the Government post at Meru. We finally debouched +from the forest to the great clearing at the head of a most impressive +procession, flags flying, oryx horns blowing, boys chanting and beating +the sides of their loads with the safari sticks. As there happened to be +gathered, at this time, several thousand of warriors for the purpose +of a council, or shauri, with the District Commissioner we had just the +audience to delight our barbaric hearts. + +(b) MERU + +The Government post at Meru is situated in a clearing won from the +forest on the first gentle slopes of Kenia's ranges. The clearing is a +very large one, and on it the grass grows green and short, like a lawn. +It resembles, as much as anything else, the rolling, beautiful downs +of a first-class country club, and the illusion is enhanced by the +Commissioner's house among some trees atop a hill. Well-kept roadways +railed with rustic fences lead from the house to the native quarters +lying in the hollow and to the Government offices atop another hill. +Then also there are the quarters of the Nubian troops; round low houses +with conical grass roofs. + +These, and the presence everywhere of savages, rather take away from +the first country-club effect. A corral seemed full of a seething mob of +natives; we found later that this was the market, a place of exchange. +Groups wandered idly here and there across the greensward; and other +groups sat in circles under the shade of trees, each man's spear stuck +in the ground behind him. At stated points were the Nubians, fine, tall, +black, soldierly men, with red fez, khaki shirt, and short breeches, +bare knees and feet, spiral puttees, and a broad red sash of webbing. +One of these soldiers assigned us a place to camp. We directed our +safari there, and then immediately rode over to pay our respects to the +Commissioner. + +The latter, Horne by name, greeted us with the utmost cordiality, and +offered us cool drinks. Then we accompanied him to a grand shauri or +council of chiefs. + +Horne was a little chap, dressed in flannels and a big slouch hat, +carrying only a light rawhide whip, with very little of the dignity and +"side" usually considered necessary in dealing with wild natives. The +post at Meru had been established only two years, among a people that +had always been very difficult, and had only recently ceased open +hostilities. Nevertheless in that length of time Horne's personal +influence had won them over to positive friendliness. He had, moreover, +done the entire construction work of the post itself; and this we now +saw to be even more elaborate than we had at first realized. Irrigating +ditches ran in all directions brimming with clear mountain water; the +roads and paths were rounded, graded and gravelled; the houses were +substantial, well built and well kept; fences, except of course the +rustic, were whitewashed; the native quarters and "barracks" were well +ranged and in perfect order. The place looked ten years old instead of +only two. + +We followed Horne to an enclosure, outside the gate of which were +stacked a great number of spears. Inside we found the owners of those +spears squatted before the open side of a small, three-walled building +containing a table and a chair. Horne placed himself in the chair, +lounged back, and hit the table smartly with his rawhide whip. From the +centre of the throng an old man got up and made quite a long speech. +When he had finished another did likewise. All was carried out with the +greatest decorum. After four or five had thus spoken, Horne, without +altering his lounging attitude, spoke twenty or thirty words, rapped +again on the table with his rawhide whip, and immediately came over to +us. + +"Now," said he cheerfully, "we'll have a game of golf." + +That was amusing, but not astonishing. Most of us have at one time or +another laid out a scratch hole or so somewhere in the vacant lot. We +returned to the house, Horne produced a sufficiency of clubs, and we +sallied forth. Then came the surprise of our life! We played eighteen +holes-eighteen, mind you-over an excellently laid-out and kept-up +course! The fair greens were cropped short and smooth by a well-managed +small herd of sheep; the putting greens were rolled, and in perfect +order; bunkers had been located at the correct distances; there +were water hazards in the proper spots. In short, it was a genuine, +scientific, well-kept golf course. Over it played Horne, solitary except +on the rare occasions when he and his assistant happened to be at the +post at the same time. The nearest white man was six days' journey; +the nearest small civilization 196 miles.* The whole affair was most +astounding. + + * Which was, in turn, over three hundred miles from the + next. + +Our caddies were grinning youngsters a good deal like the Gold +Dust Twins. They wore nothing but our golf bags. Afield were other +supernumerary caddies: one in case we sliced, one in case we pulled, +and one in case we drove straight ahead. Horne explained that unlimited +caddies were easier to get than unlimited golf balls. I can well believe +it. + +F. joined forces with Horne against B. and me for a grand international +match. I regret to state that America was defeated by two holes. + +We returned to find our camp crowded with savages. In a short time we +had established trade relations and were doing a brisk business. Two +years before we should have had to barter exclusively; but now, thanks +to Horne's attempt to collect an annual hut tax, money was some good. We +had, however, very good luck with bright blankets and cotton cloth. +Our beads did not happen here to be in fashion. Probably three months +earlier or later we might have done better with them. The feminine mind +here differs in no basic essential from that of civilization. Fashions +change as rapidly, as often and as completely in the jungle as in Paris. +The trader who brings blue beads when blue beads have "gone out" might +just as well have stayed at home. We bought a number of the pretty +"marquise" rings for four cents apiece (our money), some war clubs or +rungas for the same, several spears, armlets, stools and the like. Billy +thought one of the short, soft skin cloaks embroidered with steel beads +might be nice to hang on the wall. We offered a youth two rupees for +one. This must have been a high price, for every man in hearing of the +words snatched off his cloak and rushed forward holding it out. As that +reduced his costume to a few knick-knacks, Billy retired from the busy +mart until we could arrange matters. + +We dined with Horne. His official residence was most interesting. The +main room was very high to beams and a grass-thatched roof, with a +well-brushed earth floor covered with mats. It contained comfortable +furniture, a small library, a good phonograph, tables, lamps and the +like. When the mountain chill descended, Horne lit a fire in a coal-oil +can with a perforated bottom. What little smoke was produced by the +clean burning wood lost itself far aloft. Leopard skins and other +trophies hung on the wall. We dined in another room at a well-appointed +table. After dinner we sat up until the unheard of hour of ten o'clock +discussing at length many matters that interested us. Horne told us of +his personal bodyguard consisting of one son from each chief of his wide +district. These youths were encouraged to make as good an appearance +as possible, and as a consequence turned out in the extreme of savage +gorgeousness. Horne spoke of them carelessly as a "matter of policy in +keeping the different tribes well disposed," but I thought he was at +heart a little proud of them. Certainly, later and from other sources, +we heard great tales of their endurance, devotion and efficiency. Also +we heard that Horne had cut in half his six months' leave (earned +by three years' continuous service in the jungle) to hurry back from +England because he could not bear the thought of being absent from the +first collection of the hut tax! He is a good man. + +We said good-night to him and stepped from the lighted house into +the vast tropical night. The little rays of our lantern showed us the +inequalities of the ground, and where to step across the bubbling, +little irrigation streams. But thousands of stars insisted on a +simplification. The broad, rolling meadows of the clearing lay half +guessed in the dim light; and about its edge was the velvet band of +the forest, dark and mysterious, stretching away for leagues into the +jungle. From it near at hand, far away, came the rhythmic beating of +solemn great drums, and the rising and falling chants of the savage +peoples. + +(C) THE CHIEFS + +We left Meru well observed by a very large audience, much to the delight +of our safari boys, who love to show off. We had acquired fourteen more +small boys, or totos, ranging in age from eight to twelve years. These +had been fitted out by their masters to alleviate their original shenzi +appearance of savagery. Some had ragged blankets, which they had already +learned to twist turban wise around their heads; others had ragged +old jerseys reaching to their knees, or the wrecks of full-grown +undershirts; one or two even sported baggy breeches a dozen sizes too +large. Each carried his little load, proudly, atop his head like a real +porter, sufurias or cooking pots, the small bags of potio, and the like. +Inside a mile they had gravitated together and with the small boy's +relish for imitation and for playing a game, had completed a miniature +safari organization of their own. Thenceforth they marched in a compact +little company, under orders of their "headman." They marched very well, +too, straight and proud and tireless. Of course we inspected their loads +to see that they were not required to carry too much for their strength; +but, I am bound to say, we never discovered an attempt at overloading. +In fact, the toto brigade was treated very well indeed. M'ganga +especially took great interest in their education and welfare. One of +my most vivid camp recollections is that of M'ganga, very benign and +didactic, seated on a chop box and holding forth to a semicircle of +totos squatted on the ground before him. On reaching camp totos had +several clearly defined duties: they must pick out good places for their +masters' individual camps, they must procure cooking stones, they must +collect kindling wood and start fires, they must fill the sufurias with +water and set them over to boil. In the meantime, their masters were +attending to the pitching of the bwana's camp. The rest of the time the +toto played about quite happily, and did light odd jobs, or watched most +attentively while his master showed him small details of a safari-boy's +duty, or taught him simple handicraft. Our boys seemed to take great +pains with their totos and to try hard to teach them. + +Also at Meru we had acquired two cocks and four hens of the ridiculously +small native breed. These rode atop the loads: their feet were tied to +the cords and there they swayed and teetered and balanced all day long, +apparently quite happy and interested. At each new camp site they were +released and went scratching and clucking around among the tents. They +lent our temporary quarters quite a settled air of domesticity. We named +the cocks Gaston and Alphonse and somehow it was rather fine, in +the blackness before dawn, to hear these little birds crowing +stout-heartedly against the great African wilderness. Neither Gaston, +Alphonse nor any of their harem were killed and eaten by their owners; +but seemed rather to fulfil the function of household pets. + +Along the jungle track we met swarms of people coming in to the post. +One large native safari composed exclusively of women were transporting +loads of trade goods for the Indian trader. They carried their burdens +on their backs by means of a strap passing over the top of the head; our +own "tump line" method. The labour seemed in no way to have dashed their +spirits, for they grinned at us, and joked merrily with our boys. Along +the way, every once in a while, we came upon people squatted down behind +small stocks of sugarcane, yams, bananas, and the like. With these our +boys did a brisk trade. Little paths led mysteriously into the jungle. +Down them came more savages to greet us. Everybody was most friendly and +cheerful, thanks to Horne's personal influence. Two years before this +same lot had been hostile. From every hidden village came the headmen +or chiefs. They all wanted to shake hands-the ordinary citizen never +dreamed of aspiring to that honour-and they all spat carefully into +their palms before they did so. This all had to be done in passing; for +ordinary village headmen it was beneath Our Dignity to draw rein. Once +only we broke over this rule. That was in the case of an old fellow with +white hair who managed to get so tangled up in the shrubbery that he +could not get to us. He was so frantic with disappointment that we made +an exception and waited. + +About three miles out, we lost one of our newly acquired totos. Reason: +an exasperated parent who had followed from Meru for the purpose of +reclaiming his runaway offspring. The latter was dragged off howling. +Evidently he, like some of his civilized cousins, had "run away to join +the circus." As nearly as we could get at it, the rest of the totos, as +well as the nine additional we picked up before we quitted the jungle, +had all come with their parents' consent. In fact, we soon discovered +that we could buy any amount of good sound totos, not house broke +however, for an average of half a rupee (16-1/2 cents) apiece. + +The road was very much up and down hill over the numerous ridges that +star-fish out from Mt. Kenia. We would climb down steep trails from 200 +to 800 feet (measured by aneroid), cross an excellent mountain stream of +crystalline dashing water, and climb out again. The trails of course had +no notion of easy grades. It was very hard work, especially for men with +loads; and it would have been impossible on account of the heat were +it not for the numerous streams. On the slopes and in the bottoms +were patches of magnificent forest; on the crests was the jungle, and +occasionally an outlook over extended views. The birds and the strange +tropical big-leaved trees were a constant delight-exotic and strange. +Billy was in a heaven of joy, for her specialty in Africa was plants, +seeds and bulbs, for her California garden. She had syces, gunbearers +and tent boys all climbing, shaking branches, and generally pawing +about. + +This idiosyncracy of Billy's puzzled our boys hugely. At first they +tried telling her that everything was poisonous; but when that did not +work, they resigned themselves to their fate. In fact, some of the most +enterprising like Memba Sasa, Kitaru, and, later, Kongoni used of their +own accord to hunt up and bring in seeds and blossoms. They did not in +the least understand what it was for; and it used to puzzle them +hugely until out of sheer pity for their uneasiness, I implied that the +Memsahib collected "medicine." That was rational, so the wrinkled brow +of care was smoothed. From this botanical trait, Billy got her native +name of "Beebee Kooletta"-"The Lady Who Says: Go Get That." For in +Africa every white man has a name by which he is known among the native +people. If you would get news of your friends, you must know their local +cognomens-their own white man names will not do at all. For example, +I was called either Bwana Machumwani or Bwana N'goma. The former means +merely Master Four-eyes, referring to my glasses. The precise meaning of +the latter is a matter much disputed between myself and Billy. An N'goma +is a native dance, consisting of drum poundings, chantings, and hoppings +around. Therefore I translate myself (most appropriately) as the +Master who Makes Merry. On the other hand, Billy, with true feminine +indirectness, insists that it means "The Master who Shouts and Howls." I +leave it to any fairminded reader. + +About the middle of the morning we met a Government runner, a proud +youth, young, lithe, with many ornaments and bangles; his red skin +glistening; the long blade of his spear, bound around with a red strip +to signify his office, slanting across his shoulder; his buffalo hide +shield slung from it over his back; the letter he was bearing stuck in +a cleft stick and carried proudly before him as a priest carries a cross +to the heathen-in the pictures. He was swinging along at a brisk pace, +but on seeing us drew up and gave us a smart military salute. + +At one point where the path went level and straight for some distance, +we were riding in an absolute solitude. Suddenly from the jungle on +either side and about fifty yards ahead of us leaped a dozen women. They +were dressed in grass skirts, and carried long narrow wooden shields +painted white and brown. These they clashed together, shrieked shrilly, +and charged down on us at full speed. When within a few yards of +our horses noses they came to a sudden halt, once more clashed their +shields, shrieked, turned and scuttled away as fast as their legs +could carry them. At a hundred yards they repeated the performance; and +charged back at us again. Thus advancing and retreating, shrieking high, +hitting the wooden shields with resounding crash, they preceded our slow +advance for a half mile or so. Then at some signal unperceived by us +they vanished abruptly into the jungle. Once more we rode forward in +silence and in solitude. Why they did it I could not say. + +Of this tissue were our days made. At noon our boys plucked us each two +or three banana leaves which they spread down for us to lie on. Then +we dozed through the hot hours in great comfort, occasionally waking to +blue sky through green trees, or to peer idly into the tangled jungle. +At two o'clock or a little later we would arouse ourselves reluctantly +and move on. The safari we had dimly heard passing us an hour before. +In this country of the direct track we did not attempt to accompany our +men. + +The end of the day's march found us in a little clearing where we could +pitch camp. Generally this was atop a ridge, so that the boys had some +distance to carry water; but that disadvantage was outweighed by the +cleared space. Sometimes we found ourselves hemmed in by a wall of +jungle. Again we enjoyed a broad outlook. One such in especial took in +the magnificent, splintered, snow-capped peak of Kenia on the right, a +tremendous gorge and rolling forested mountains straight ahead, and a +great drop to a plain with other and distant mountains to the left. It +was as fine a panoramic view as one could imagine. + +Our tents pitched, and ourselves washed and refreshed, we gave audience +to the resident chief, who had probably been waiting. With this +potentate we conversed affably, after the usual expectoratorial +ceremonies. Billy, being a mere woman, did not always come in for this; +but nevertheless she maintained what she called her "quarantine gloves," +and kept them very handy. We had standing orders with our boys for +basins of hot water to be waiting always behind our tents. After the +usual polite exchanges we informed the chief of our needs-firewood, +perhaps, milk, a sheep or the like. These he furnished. When we left we +made him a present of a few beads, a knife, a blanket or such according +to the value of his contribution. + +To me these encounters were some of the most interesting of our many +experiences, for each man differed radically from every other in his +conceptions of ceremony, in his ideas, and in his methods. Our coming +was a good deal of an event, always, and each chief, according to his +temperament and training, tried to do things up properly. And in +that attempt certain basic traits of human nature showed in the very +strongest relief. Thus there are three points of view to take in running +any spectacle: that of the star performer, the stage manager, or the +truly artistic. We encountered well-marked specimens of each. I will +tell you about them. + +The star performer knew his stagecraft thoroughly; and in the exposition +of his knowledge he showed incidentally how truly basic are the +principles of stagecraft anywhere. + +We were seated under a tree near the banks of a stream eating our lunch. +Before us appeared two tall and slender youths, wreathed in smiles, +engaging, and most attentive to the small niceties of courtesy. We +returned their greeting from our recumbent positions, whereupon they +made preparation to squat down beside us. + +"Are you sultans?" we demanded sternly, "that you attempt to sit in Our +Presence," and we lazily kicked the nearest. + +Not at all abashed, but favourably impressed with our transcendent +importance-as we intended-they leaned gracefully on their spears and +entered into conversation. After a few trifles of airy persiflage they +got down to business. + +"This," said they, indicating the tiny flat, "is the most beautiful +place to camp in all the mountains." + +We doubted it. + +"Here is excellent water." + +We agreed to that. + +"And there is no more water for a journey." + +"You are liars," we observed politely. + +"And near is the village of our chief, who is a great warrior, and will +bring you many presents; the greatest man in these parts." + +"Now you're getting to it," we observed in English; "you want trade." +Then in Swahili, "We shall march two hours longer." + +After a few polite phrases they went away. We finished lunch, remounted, +and rode up the trail. At the edge of the canyon we came to a wide +clearing, at the farther side of which was evidently the village in +question. But the merry villagers, down to the last toro, were drawn up +at the edge of the track in a double line through which we rode. They +were very wealthy savages, and wore it all. Bright neck, arm, and leg +ornaments, yards and yards of cowry shells in strings, blue beads of +all sizes (blue beads were evidently "in"), odd scraps and shapes of +embroidered skins, clean shaves and a beautiful polish characterized +this holiday gathering. We made our royal progress between the +serried ranks. About eight or ten seconds after we had passed the last +villager-just the proper dramatic pause, you observe-the bushes parted +and a splendid, straight, springy young man came into view and stepped +smilingly across the space that separated us. And about eight or ten +seconds after his emergence-again just the right dramatic pause-the +bushes parted again to give entrance to four of the quaintest little +dolls of wives. These advanced all abreast, parted, and took up +positions two either side the smiling chief. This youth was evidently +in the height of fashion, his hair braided in a tight queue bound with +skin, his ears dangling with ornaments, heavy necklaces around his neck, +and armlets etc., ad lib. His robe was of fine monkey skin embroidered +with rosettes of beads, and his spear was very long, bright and keen. He +was tall and finely built carried himself with a free, lithe swing. As +the quintette came to halt, the villagers fell silent and our shauri +began. + +We drew up and dismounted. We all expectorated as gentlemen. + +"These," said he proudly, "are my beebees." + +We replied that they seemed like excellent beebees and politely inquired +the price of wives thereabout, and also the market for totos. He gave us +to understand that such superior wives as these brought three cows and +twenty sheep apiece, but that you could get a pretty good toto for half +a rupee. + +"When we look upon our women," he concluded grandly, "we find them +good; but when we look upon the white women they are as nothing!" +He completely obliterated the poor little beebees with a magnificent +gesture. They looked very humble and abashed. I was, however, a bit +uncertain as to whether this was intended as a genuine tribute to Billy, +or was meant to console us for having only one to his four. + +Now observe the stagecraft of all this: entrance of diplomats, +preliminary conversation introducing the idea of the greatness of +N'Zahgi (for that was his name), chorus of villagers, and, as climax, +dramatic entrance of the hero and heroines. It was pretty well done. + +Again we stopped about the middle of the afternoon in an opening on the +rounded top of a hill. While waiting for the safari to come up, Billy +wandered away fifty or sixty yards to sit under a big tree. She did not +stay long. Immediately she was settled, a dozen women and young girls +surrounded her. They were almost uproariously good-natured, but Billy +was probably the first white woman they had ever seen, and they intended +to make the most of her. Every item of her clothes and equipment they +examined minutely, handled and discussed. When she told them with great +dignity to go away, they laughed consumedly, fairly tumbling into each +other's arms with excess of joy. Billy tried to gather her effects for a +masterly retreat, but found the press of numbers too great. At last she +had to signal for help. One of us wandered over with a kiboko with which +lightly he flicked the legs of such damsels as he could reach. They +scattered like quail, laughing hilariously. Billy was escorted back to +safety. + +Shortly after the Chief and his Prime Minister came in. He was a little +old gray-haired gentleman, as spry as a cricket, quite nervous, and very +chatty. We indicated our wants to him, and he retired after enunciating +many words. The safari came in, made camp. We had tea and a bath. The +darkness fell; and still no Chief, no milk, no firewood, no promises +fulfilled. There were plenty of natives around camp, but when we +suggested that they get out and rustle on our behalf, they merely +laughed good-naturedly. We seriously contemplated turning the whole lot +out of camp. + +Finally we gave it up, and sat down to our dinner. It was now quite +dark. The askaris had built a little campfire out in front. + +Then, far in the distance of the jungle's depths, we heard a faint +measured chanting as of many people coming nearer. From another +direction this was repeated. The two processions approached each other; +their paths converged; the double chanting became a chorus that grew +moment by moment. We heard beneath the wild weird minors the rhythmic +stamping of feet, and the tapping of sticks. The procession debouched +from the jungle's edge into the circle of the firelight. Our old chief +led, accompanied by a bodyguard in all the panoply of war: ostrich +feather circlets enclosing the head and face, shields of bright +heraldry, long glittering spears. These were followed by a dozen of the +quaintest solemn dolls of beebees dressed in all the white cowry shells, +beads and brass the royal treasury afforded, very earnest, very much +on inspection, every little head uplifted, singing away just as hard as +ever they could. Each carried a gourd of milk, a bunch of bananas, some +sugarcane, yams or the like. Straight to the fire marched the pageant. +Then the warriors dividing right and left, drew up facing each other +in two lines, struck their spears upright in the ground, and stood at +attention. The quaint brown little women lined up to close the end of +this hollow square, of which our group was, roughly speaking, the +fourth side. Then all came to attention. The song now rose to a wild +and ecstatic minor chanting. The beebees, still singing, one by one cast +their burdens between the files and at our feet in the middle of the +hollow square. Then they continued their chant, singing away at the tops +of their little lungs, their eyes and teeth showing, their pretty bodies +held rigidly upright. The warriors, very erect and military, stared +straight ahead. + +And the chief? Was he the centre of the show, the important leading man, +to the contemplation of whom all these glories led? Not at all! This +particular chief did not have the soul of a leading man, but rather the +soul of a stage manager. Quite forgetful of himself and his part in the +spectacle, his brow furrowed with anxiety, he was flittering from one to +another of the performers. He listened carefully to each singer in turn, +holding his hand behind his ear to catch the individual note, striking +one on the shoulder in admonition, nodding approval at another. He +darted unexpectedly across to scrutinize a warrior, in the chance of +catching a flicker of the eyelid even. Nary a flicker! They did their +stage manager credit, and stood like magnificent bronzes. He even ran +across to peer into our own faces to see how we liked it. + +With a sudden crescendo the music stopped. Involuntarily we broke +into handclapping. The old boy looked a bit startled at this, but we +explained to him, and he seemed very pleased. We then accepted formally +the heap of presents, by touching them-and in turn passed over a +blanket, a box of matches, and two needles, together with beads for the +beebees. Then F., on an inspiration, produced his flashlight. This made +a tremendous sensation. The women tittered and giggled and blinked as +its beams were thrown directly into their eyes; the chief's sons grinned +and guffawed; the chief himself laughed like a pleased schoolboy, and +seemed never to weary of the sudden shutting on and off of the switch. +But the trusty Spartan warriors, standing still in their formation +behind their planted spears, were not to be shaken. They glared straight +in front of them, even when we held the light within a few inches of +their eyes, and not a muscle quivered! + +"It is wonderful! wonderful!" the old man repeated. "Many Government men +have come here, but none have had anything like that! The bwanas must be +very great sultans!" + +After the departure of our friends, we went rather grandly to bed. We +always did after any one had called us sultans. + +But our prize chief was an individual named M'booley.* Our camp here +also was on a fine cleared hilltop between two streams. After we had +traded for a while with very friendly and prosperous people M'booley +came in. He was young, tall, straight, with a beautiful smooth lithe +form, and his face was hawklike and cleverly intelligent. He carried +himself with the greatest dignity and simplicity, meeting us on an easy +plane of familiarity. I do not know how I can better describe his manner +toward us than to compare it to the manner the member of an exclusive +golf club would use to one who is a stranger, but evidently a guest. He +took our quality for granted; and supposed we must do the same by him, +neither acting as though he considered us "great white men," nor yet +standing aloof and too respectful. And as the distinguishing feature of +all, he was absolutely without personal ornament. + + * Pronounce each o separately. + +Pause for a moment to consider what a real advance in esthetic taste +that one little fact stands for. All M'booley's attendants were the +giddiest and gaudiest savages we had yet seen, with more colobus fur, +sleighbells, polished metal, ostrich plumes, and red paint than would +have fitted out any two other royal courts of the jungle. The women too +were wealthy and opulent without limit. It takes considerable perception +among our civilized people to realize that severe simplicity amid ultra +magnificence makes the most effective distinguishing of an individual. +If you do not believe it, drop in at the next ball to which you are +invited. M'booley had fathomed this, and what was more he had the +strength of mind to act on it. Any savage loves finery for its own +sake. His hair was cut short, and shaved away at the edges to leave what +looked like an ordinary close-fitting skull cap. He wore one pair of +plain armlets on his left upper arm and small simple ear-rings. His robe +was black. He had no trace of either oil or paint, nor did he even carry +a spear. + +He greeted us with good-humoured ease, and inquired conversationally if +we wanted anything. We suggested wood and milk, whereupon still +smiling, he uttered a few casual words in his own language to no one in +particular. There was no earthly doubt that he was chief. Three of the +most gorgeous and haughty warriors ran out of camp. Shortly long +files of women came in bringing loads of firewood; and others carrying +bananas, yams, sugarcane and a sheep. Truly M'booley did things on a +princely scale. We thanked him. He accepted the thanks with a casual +smile, waved his hand and went on to talk of something else. In due +order our M'ganga brought up one of our best trade blankets, to which we +added a half dozen boxes of matches and a razor. + +Now into camp filed a small procession: four women, four children, and +two young men. These advanced to where M'booley was standing smoking +with great satisfaction one of B's tailor-made cigarettes. M'booley +advanced ten feet to meet them, and brought them up to introduce them +one by one in the most formal fashion. These were of course his family, +and we had to confess that they "saw" N'Zahgi's outfit of ornaments and +"raised" him beyond the ceiling. We gave them each in turn the handshake +of ceremony, first with the palms as we do it, and then each grasping +the other's upright thumb. The "little chiefs" were proud, aristocratic +little fellows, holding themselves very straight and solemn. I think one +would have known them for royalty anywhere. + +It was quite a social occasion. None of our guests was in the least ill +at ease; in fact, the young ladies were quite coy and flirtatious. We +had a great many jokes. Each of the little ladies received a handful +of prevailing beads. M'booley smiled benignly at these delightful +femininities. After a time he led us to the edge of the hill and showed +us his houses across the cation, perched on a flat about halfway up the +wall. They were of the usual grass-thatched construction, but rather +larger and neater than most. Examining them through the glasses we saw +that a little stream had been diverted to flow through the front +yard. M'booley waved his hand abroad and gave us to understand that he +considered the outlook worth looking at. It was; but an appreciation of +that fact is foreign to the average native. Next morning, when we rode +by very early, we found the little flat most attractively cleared +and arranged. M'booley was out to shake us by the hand in farewell, +shivering in the cold of dawn. The flirtatious and spoiled little +beauties were not in evidence. + +One day after two very deep canyons we emerged from the forest jungle +into an up and down country of high jungle bush-brush. From the top +of a ridge it looked a good deal like a northern cut-over pine country +grown up very heavily to blackberry vines; although, of course, when +we came nearer, the "blackberry vines" proved to be ten or twenty feet +high. This was a district of which Horne had warned us. The natives +herein were reported restless and semi-hostile; and in fact had never +been friendly. They probably needed the demonstration most native tribes +seem to require before they are content to settle down and be happy. At +any rate safaris were not permitted in their district; and we ourselves +were allowed to go through merely because we were a large party, did not +intend to linger, and had a good reputation with natives. + +It is very curious how abruptly, in Central Africa, one passes from one +condition to another, from one tribe or race to the next. Sometimes, as +in the present case, it is the traversing of a deep cation; at others +the simple crossing of a tiny brook is enough. Moreover the line of +demarcation is clearly defined, as boundaries elsewhere are never +defined save in wartime. + +Thus we smiled our good-bye to a friendly numerous people, descended a +hill, and ascended another into a deserted track. After a half mile we +came unexpectedly on to two men carrying each a load of reeds. These +they abandoned and fled up the hillside through the jungle, in spite of +our shouted assurances. A moment later they reappeared at some distance +above us, each with a spear he had snatched from somewhere; they were +unarmed when we first caught sight of them. Examined through the glasses +they proved to be sullen looking men, copper coloured, but broad across +the cheekbones, broad in the forehead, more decidedly of the negro type +than our late hosts. + +Aside from these two men we travelled through an apparently deserted +jungle. I suspect, however, that we were probably well watched; for when +we stopped for noon we heard the gunbearers beyond the screen of leaves +talking to some one. On learning from our boys that these were some of +the shenzis, we told them to bring the savages in for a shauri; but in +this our men failed, nor could they themselves get nearer than fifty +yards or so to the wild people. So until evening our impression remained +that of two distant men, and the indistinct sound of voices behind a +leafy screen. + +We made camp comparatively early in a wide open space surrounded by low +forest. Almost immediately then the savages commenced to drift in, +very haughty and arrogant. They were fully armed. Besides the spear and +decorated shield, some of them carried the curious small grass spears. +These are used to stab upward from below, the wielder lying flat in the +grass. Some of these men were fantastically painted with a groundwork +ochre, on which had been drawn intricate wavy designs on the legs, +like stockings, and varied stripes across the face. One particularly +ingenious individual, stark naked, had outlined a roughly entire +skeleton! He was a gruesome object! They stalked here and there through +the camp, looking at our men and their activities with a lofty and +silent contempt. + +You may be sure we had our arrangements, though they did not appear on +the surface. The askaris, or native soldiers, were posted here and there +with their muskets; the gunbearers also kept our spare weapons by them. +The askaris could not hit a barn, but they could make a noise. The +gunbearers were fair shots. + +Of course the chief and his prime minister came in. They were +evil-looking savages. To them we paid not the slightest attention, but +went about our usual business as though they did not exist. At the end +of an hour they of their own initiative greeted us. We did not hear +them. Half an hour later they disappeared, to return after an interval, +followed by a string of young men bearing firewood. Evidently our +bearing had impressed them, as we had intended. We then unbent far +enough to recognize them, carried on a formal conversation for a few +moments, gave them adequate presents and dismissed them. Then we ordered +the askaris to clear camp and to keep it clear. No women had appeared. +Even the gifts of firewood had been carried by men, a most unusual +proceeding. + +As soon as dark fell the drums began roaring in the forest all about our +clearing, and the chanting to rise. We instructed our men to shoot first +and inquire afterward, if a shenzi so much as showed himself in the +clearing. This was not as bad as it sounded; the shenzi stood in no +immediate danger. Then we turned in to a sleep rather light and broken +by uncertainty. I do not think we were in any immediate danger of a +considered attack, for these people were not openly hostile; but there +was always a chance that the savages might by their drum pounding and +dancing work themselves into a frenzy. Then we might have to do a little +rapid shooting. Not for one instant the whole night long did those +misguided savages cease their howling and dancing. At any rate we cost +them a night's sleep. + +Next morning we took up our march through the deserted tracks once more. +Not a sign of human life did we encounter. About ten o'clock we climbed +down a tremendous gash of a box canyon with precipitous cliffs. From +below we looked back to see, perched high against the skyline, the +motionless figures of many savages watching us from the crags. So we had +had company after all, and we had not known it. This canyon proved to +be the boundary line. With the same abruptness we passed again into +friendly country. + +(d) OUT THE OTHER SIDE + +We left the jungle finally when we turned on a long angle away from +Kenia. At first the open country of the foothills was closely cultivated +with fields of rape and maize. We saw some of the people breaking new +soil by means of long pointed sticks. The plowmen quite simply inserted +the pointed end in the ground and pried. It was very slow hard work. In +other fields the grain stood high and good. From among the stalks, as +from a miniature jungle, the little naked totos stared out, and the +good-natured women smiled at us. The magnificent peak of Kenia had now +shaken itself free of the forests. On its snow the sunrises and sunsets +kindled their fires. The flames of grass fires, too, could plainly be +made out, incredible distances away, and at daytime, through the reek, +were fascinating suggestions of distant rivers, plains, jungles, and +hills. You see, we were still practically on the wide slope of Kenia's +base, though the peak was many days away, and so could look out over +wide country. + +The last half day of this we wandered literally in a rape field. The +stalks were quite above our heads, and we could see but a few yards in +any direction. In addition the track had become a footpath not over two +feet wide. We could occasionally look back to catch glimpses of a pack +or so bobbing along on a porter's head. From our own path hundreds of +other paths branched; we were continually taking the wrong fork and +moving back to set the safari right before it could do likewise. This we +did by drawing a deep double line in the earth across the wrong trail. +Then we hustled on ahead to pioneer the way a little farther; our +difficulties were further complicated by the fact that we had sent our +horses back to Nairobi for fear of the tsetse fly, so we could not see +out above the corn. All we knew was that we ought to go down hill. + +At the ends of some of our false trails we came upon fascinating little +settlements: groups of houses inside brush enclosures, with low wooden +gateways beneath which we had to stoop to enter. Within were groups of +beehive houses with small naked children and perhaps an old woman or old +man seated cross-legged under a sort of veranda. From them we obtained +new-and confusing-directions. + +After three o'clock we came finally out on the edge of a cliff fifty or +sixty feet high, below which lay uncultivated bottom lands like a great +meadow and a little meandering stream. We descended the cliff, and +camped by the meandering stream. + +By this time we were fairly tired from long walking in the heat, and so +were content to sit down under our tent-fly before our little table, and +let Mahomet bring us sparklets and lime juice. Before us was the flat of +a meadow below the cliffs and the cliffs themselves. Just below the rise +lay a single patch of standing rape not over two acres in extent, the +only sign of human life. It was as though this little bit had overflowed +from the countless millions on the plateau above. Beyond it arose a thin +signal of smoke. + +We sipped our lime juice and rested. Soon our attention was attracted +by the peculiar actions of a big flock of very white birds. They rose +suddenly from one side of the tiny rape field, wheeled and swirled like +leaves in the wind, and dropped down suddenly on the other side the +patch. After a few moments they repeated the performance. The sun caught +the dazzling white of their plumage. At first we speculated on what +they might be, then on what they were doing, to behave in so peculiar +a manner. The lime juice and the armchair began to get in their +recuperative work. Somehow the distance across that flat did not seem +quite as tremendous as at first. Finally I picked up the shotgun and +sauntered across to investigate. The cause of action I soon determined. +The owner of that rape field turned out to be an emaciated, gray-haired +but spry old savage. He was armed with a spear; and at the moment his +chief business in life seemed to be chasing a large flock of white birds +off his grain. Since he had no assistance, and since the birds held his +spear in justifiable contempt as a fowling piece, he was getting much +exercise and few results. The birds gave way before his direct charge, +flopped over to the other side, and continued their meal. They had +already occasioned considerable damage; the rape heads were bent and +destroyed for a space of perhaps ten feet from the outer edge of the +field. As this grain probably constituted the old man's food supply +for a season, I did not wonder at the vehemence with which he shook his +spear at his enemies, nor the apparent flavour of his language, though I +did marvel at his physical endurance. As for the birds, they had become +cynical and impudent; they barely fluttered out of the way. + +I halted the old gentleman and hastened to explain that I was neither a +pirate, a robber, nor an oppressor of the poor. This as counter-check to +his tendency to flee, leaving me in sole charge. He understood a little +Swahili, and talked a few words of something he intended for that +language. By means of our mutual accomplishment in that tongue, and +through a more efficient sign language, I got him to understand the plan +of campaign. It was very simple. I squatted down inside the rape, while +he went around the other side to scare them up. + +The white birds uttered their peculiarly derisive cackle at the old man +and flapped over to my side. Then they were certainly an astonished +lot of birds. I gave them both barrels and dropped a pair; got two more +shots as they swung over me and dropped another pair, and brought down a +straggling single as a grand finale. The flock, with shrill, derogatory +remarks, flew in an airline straight away. They never deviated, as far +as I could follow them with the eye. Even after they had apparently +disappeared, I could catch an occasional flash of white in the sun. + +Now the old gentleman came whooping around with long, undignified bounds +to fall on his face and seize my foot in an excess of gratitude. He rose +and capered about, he rushed out and gathered in the slain one by one +and laid them in a pile at my feet. Then he danced a jig-step around +them and reviled them, and fell on his face once more, repeating the +word "Bwana! bwana! bwana!" over and over-"Master! master! master!" We +returned to camp together, the old gentleman carrying the birds, and +capering about like a small boy, pouring forth a flood of his sort of +Swahili, of which I could understand only a word here and there. Memba +Sasa, very dignified and scornful of such performances, met us halfway +and took my gun. He seemed to be able to understand the old fellow's +brand of Swahili, and said it over again in a brand I could understand. +From it I gathered that I was called a marvellously great sultan, a +protector of the poor, and other Arabian Nights titles. + +The birds proved to be white egrets. Now at home I am strongly against +the killing of these creatures, and have so expressed myself on many +occasions. But, looking from the beautiful white plumage of these +villainous mauraders, to the wrinkled countenance of the grateful weary +old savage, I could not fan a spark of regret. And from the straight +line of their retreating flight I like to think that the rest of the +flock never came back, but took their toll from the wider fields of the +plateau above. + +Next day we reentered the game-haunted wilderness, nor did we see any +more native villages until many weeks later we came into the country of +the Wakamba. + + + + + +XIX. THE TANA RIVER + +Our first sight of the Tana River was from the top of a bluff. It flowed +below us a hundred feet, bending at a sharp elbow against the cliff +on which we stood. Out of the jungle it crept sluggishly and into the +jungle it crept again, brown, slow, viscid, suggestive of the fevers and +the lurking beasts by which, indeed, it was haunted. From our elevation +we could follow its course by the jungle that grew along its banks. +At first this was intermittent, leaving thin or even open spaces at +intervals, but lower down it extended away unbroken and very tall. The +trees were many of them beginning to come into flower. + +Either side of the jungle were rolling hills. Those to the left made up +to the tremendous slopes of Kenia. Those to the right ended finally in +a low broken range many miles away called the Ithanga Hills. The country +gave one the impression of being clothed with small trees; although +here and there this growth gave space to wide grassy plains. Later we +discovered that the forest was more apparent than real. The small trees, +even where continuous, were sparse enough to permit free walking in all +directions, and open enough to allow clear sight for a hundred yards or +so. Furthermore, the shallow wide valleys between the hills were almost +invariably treeless and grown to very high thick grass. + +Thus the course of the Tana possessed advantages to such as we. By +following in general the course of the stream we were always certain +of wood and water. The river itself was full of fish-not to speak of +hundreds of crocodiles and hippopotamuses. The thick river jungle gave +cover to such animals as the bushbuck, leopard, the beautiful colobus, +some of the tiny antelope, waterbuck, buffalo and rhinoceros. Among +the thorn and acacia trees of the hillsides one was certain of impalla, +eland, diks-diks, and giraffes. In the grass bottoms were lions, +rhinoceroses, a half dozen varieties of buck, and thousands and +thousands of game birds such as guinea fowl and grouse. On the plains +fed zebra, hartebeeste, wart-hog, ostriches, and several species of the +smaller antelope. As a sportsman's paradise this region would be hard to +beat. + +We were now afoot. The dreaded tsetse fly abounded here, and we had +sent our horses in via Fort Hall. F. had accompanied them, and hoped to +rejoin us in a few days or weeks with tougher and less valuable mules. +Pending his return we moved on leisurely, camping long at one spot, +marching short days, searching the country far and near for the special +trophies of which we stood in need. + +It was great fun. Generally we hunted each in his own direction and +according to his own ideas. The jungle along the river, while not the +most prolific in trophies, was by all odds the most interesting. It was +very dense, very hot, and very shady. Often a thorn thicket would fling +itself from the hills right across to the water's edge, absolutely and +hopelessly impenetrable save by way of the rhinoceros tracks. Along +these then we would slip, bent double, very quietly and gingerly, +keeping a sharp lookout for the rightful owners of the trail. Again +we would wander among lofty trees through the tops of which the sun +flickered on festooned serpent-like vines. Every once in a while we +managed a glimpse of the sullen oily river through the dense leaf screen +on its banks. The water looked thick as syrup, of a deadly menacing +green. Sometimes we saw a loathsome crocodile lying with his nose just +out of water, or heard the snorting blow of a hippopotamus coming up for +air. Then the thicket forced us inland again. We stepped very slowly, +very alertly, our ears cocked for the faintest sound, our eyes roving. +Generally, of course, the creatures of the jungle saw us first. We +became aware of them by a crash or a rustling or a scamper. Then we +stood stock listening with all our ears for some sound distinguishing +to the species. Thus I came to recognize the queer barking note of the +bushbuck, for example, and to realize how profane and vulgar that and +the beautiful creature, the impalla, can be when he forgets himself. As +for the rhinoceros, he does not care how much noise he makes, nor how +badly he scares you. + +Personally, I liked very well to circle out in the more open country +until about three o'clock, then to enter the river jungle and work +my way slowly back toward camp. At that time of day the shadows were +lengthening, the birds and animals were beginning to stir about. In +the cooling nether world of shadow we slipped silently from thicket +to thicket, from tree to tree; and the jungle people fled from us, or +withdrew, or gazed curiously, or cursed us as their dispositions varied. + +While thus returning one evening I saw my first colobus. He was swinging +rapidly from one tree to another, his long black and white fur shining +against the sun. I wanted him very much, and promptly let drive at him +with the 405 Winchester. I always carried this heavier weapon in the +dense jungle. Of course I missed him, but the roar of the shot so +surprised him that he came to a stand. Memba Sasa passed me the +Springfield, and I managed to get him in the head. At the shot another +flashed into view, high up in the top of a tree. Again I aimed and +fired. The beast let go and fell like a plummet. "Good shot," said I to +myself. Fifty feet down the colobus seized a limb and went skipping away +through the branches as lively as ever. In a moment he stopped to look +back, and by good luck I landed him through the body. When we retrieved +him we found that the first shot had not hit him at all! + +At the time I thought he must have been frightened into falling; but +many subsequent experiences showed me that this sheer let-go-all-holds +drop is characteristic of the colobus and his mode of progression. He +rarely, as far as my observation goes, leaps out and across as do +the ordinary monkeys, but prefers to progress by a series of slanting +ascents followed by breath-taking straight drops to lower levels. When +closely pressed from beneath, he will go as high as he can, and will +then conceal himself in the thick leaves. + +B. and I procured our desired number of colobus by taking advantage of +this habit-as soon as we had learned it. Shooting the beasts with our +rifles we soon found to be not only very difficult, but also destructive +of the skins. On the other hand, a man could not, save by sheer good +fortune, rely on stalking near enough to use a shotgun. Therefore we +evolved a method productive of the maximum noise, row, barked shins, +thorn wounds, tumbles, bruises-and colobus! It was very simple. We took +about twenty boys into the jungle with us, and as soon as we caught +sight of a colobus we chased him madly. That was all there was to it. + +And yet this method, simple apparently to the point of imbecility, +had considerable logic back of it after all; for after a time somebody +managed to get underneath that colobus when he was at the top of a tree. +Then the beast would hide. + +Consider then a tumbling riotous mob careering through the jungle as +fast as the jungle would let it, slipping, stumbling, falling flat, +getting tangled hopelessly, disentangling with profane remarks, falling +behind and catching up again, everybody yelling and shrieking. Ahead of +us we caught glimpses of the sleek bounding black and white creature, +running up the long slanting limbs, and dropping like a plummet into the +lower branches of the next tree. We white men never could keep up with +the best of our men at this sort of work, although in the open country I +could hold them well enough. We could see them dashing through the thick +cover at a great rate of speed far ahead of us. After an interval came +a great shout in chorus. By this we knew that the quarry had been +definitely brought to a stand. Arriving at the spot we craned our heads +backward, and proceeded to get a crick in the neck trying to make out +invisible colobus in the very tops of the trees above us. For gaudily +marked beasts the colobus were extraordinarily difficult to see. This +was in no sense owing to any far-fetched application of protective +colouration; but to the remarkable skill the animals possessed +in concealing themselves behind apparently the scantiest and most +inadequate cover. Fortunately for us our boys' ability to see them was +equally remarkable. Indeed, the most difficult part of their task was to +point the game out to us. We squinted, and changed position, and tried +hard to follow directions eagerly proffered by a dozen of the men. +Finally one of us would, by the aid of six power-glasses, make out, +or guess at a small tuft of white or black hair showing beyond the +concealment of a bunch of leaves. We would unlimber the shotgun and send +a charge of BB into that bunch. Then down would plump the game, to +the huge and vociferous delight of all the boys. Or, as occasionally +happened, the shot was followed merely by a shower of leaves and a +chorus of expostulations indicating that we had mistaken the place, and +had fired into empty air. + +In this manner we gathered the twelve we required between us. At noon +we sat under the bank, with the tangled roots of trees above us, and the +smooth oily river slipping by. You may be sure we always selected a +spot protected by very shoal water, for the crocodiles were numerous. I +always shot these loathsome creatures whenever I got a chance, whenever +the sound of a shot would not alarm more valuable game. Generally they +were to be seen in midstream, just the tip of their snouts above water, +and extraordinarily like anything but crocodiles. Often it took several +close scrutinies through the glass to determine the brutes. This +required rather nice shooting. More rarely we managed to see them on the +banks, or only half submerged. In this position, too, they were all but +undistinguishable as living creatures. I think this is perhaps because +of their complete immobility. The creatures of the woods, standing quite +still, are difficult enough to see; but I have a notion that the eye, +unknown to itself, catches the sum total of little flexings of the +muscles, movements of the skin, winkings, even the play of wind and +light in the hair of the coat, all of which, while impossible of +analysis, together relieve the appearance of dead inertia. The vitality +of a creature like the crocodile, however, seems to have withdrawn into +the inner recesses of its being. It lies like a log of wood, and for a +log of wood it is mistaken. + +Nevertheless the crocodile has stored in it somewhere a fearful +vitality. The swiftness of its movements when seizing prey is most +astonishing; a swirl of water, the sweep of a powerful tail, and the +unfortunate victim has disappeared. For this reason it is especially +dangerous to approach the actual edge of any of the great rivers, unless +the water is so shallow that the crocodile could not possibly approach +under cover, as is its cheerful habit. We had considerable difficulty in +impressing this elementary truth on our hill-bred totos until one day, +hearing wild shrieks from the direction of the river, I rushed down +to find the lot huddled together in the very middle of a sand spit +that-reached well out into the stream. Inquiry developed that while +paddling in the shallows they had been surprised by the sudden +appearance of an ugly snout and well drenched by the sweep of an eager +tail. The stroke fortunately missed. We stilled the tumult, sat down +quietly to wait, and at the end of ten minutes had the satisfaction of +abating that croc. + +Generally we killed the brutes where we found them and allowed them to +drift away with the current. Occasionally however we wanted a piece of +hide, and then tried to retrieve them. One such occasion showed very +vividly the tenacity of life and the primitive nervous systems of these +great saurians. + +I discovered the beast, head out of water, in a reasonable sized pool +below which were shallow rapids. My Springfield bullet hit him fair, +whereupon he stood square on his head and waved his tail in the air, +rolled over three or four times, thrashed the water, and disappeared. +After waiting a while we moved on downstream. Returning four hours later +I sneaked up quietly. There the crocodile lay sunning himself on the +sand bank. I supposed he must be dead; but when I accidentally broke a +twig, he immediately commenced to slide off into the water. Thereupon +I stopped him with a bullet in the spine. The first shot had smashed +a hole in his head, just behind the eye, about the size of an ordinary +coffee cup. In spite of this wound, which would have been instantly +fatal to any warm-blooded animal, the creature was so little affected +that it actually reacted to a slight noise made at some distance from +where it lay. Of course the wound would probably have been fatal in the +long run. + +The best spot to shoot at, indeed, is not the head but the spine +immediately back of the head. + +These brutes are exceedingly powerful. They are capable of taking down +horses and cattle, with no particular effort. This I know from my +own observation. Mr. Fleischman, however, was privileged to see +the wonderful sight of the capture and destruction of a full-grown +rhinoceros by a crocodile. The photographs he took of this most +extraordinary affair leave no room for doubt. Crossing a stream was +always a matter of concern to us. The boys beat the surface of the water +vigorously with their safari sticks. On occasion we have even let loose +a few heavy bullets to stir up the pool before venturing in. + +A steep climb through thorn and brush would always extricate us from the +river jungle when we became tired of it. Then we found ourselves in a +continuous but scattered growth of small trees. Between the trunks of +these we could see for a hundred yards or so before their numbers closed +in the view. Here was the favourite haunt of numerous beautiful impalla. +We caught glimpses of them, flashing through the trees; or occasionally +standing, gazing in our direction, their slender necks stretched high, +their ears pointed for us. These curious ones were generally the does. +The bucks were either more cautious or less inquisitive. A herd or so +of eland also liked this covered country; and there were always a +few waterbuck and rhinoceroses about. Often too we here encountered +stragglers from the open plains-zebra or hartebeeste, very alert and +suspicious in unaccustomed surroundings. + +A great deal of the plains country had been burned over; and a +considerable area was still afire. The low bright flames licked their +way slowly through the grass in a narrow irregular band extending +sometimes for miles. Behind it was blackened soil, and above it rolled +dense clouds of smoke. Always accompanied it thousands of birds wheeling +and dashing frantically in and out of the murk, often fairly at the +flames themselves. The published writings of a certain worthy and +sentimental person waste much sympathy over these poor birds dashing +frenziedly about above their destroyed nests. As a matter of fact they +are taking greedy advantage of a most excellent opportunity to get +insects cheap. Thousands of the common red-billed European storks +patrolled the grass just in front of the advancing flames, or wheeled +barely above the fire. Grasshoppers were their main object, although +apparently they never objected to any small mammals or reptiles that +came their way. Far overhead wheeled a few thousand more assorted +soarers who either had no appetite or had satisfied it. + +The utter indifference of the animals to the advance of a big +conflagration always impressed me. One naturally pictures the beasts as +fleeing wildly, nostrils distended, before the devouring element. On +the contrary I have seen kongoni grazing quite peacefully with flames on +three sides of them. The fire seems to travel rather slowly in the tough +grass; although at times and for a short distance it will leap to a wild +and roaring life. Beasts will then lope rapidly away to right or left, +but without excitement. + +On these open plains we were more or less pestered with ticks of +various sizes. These clung to the grass blades; but with no invincible +preference for that habitat; trousers did them just as well. Then they +ascended looking for openings. They ranged in size from little red ones +as small as the period of a printed page to big patterned fellows the +size of a pea. The little ones were much the most abundant. At times +I have had the front of my breeches so covered with them that their +numbers actually imparted a reddish tinge to the surface of the cloth. +This sounds like exaggeration, but it is a measured statement. The +process of de-ticking (new and valuable word) can then be done only by +scraping with the back of a hunting knife. + +Some people, of tender skin, are driven nearly frantic by these pests. +Others, of whom I am thankful to say I am one, get off comparatively +easy. In a particularly bad tick country, one generally appoints one of +the youngsters as "tick toto." It is then his job in life to de-tick +any person or domestic animal requiring his services. His is a busy +existence. But though at first the nuisance is excessive, one becomes +accustomed to it in a remarkably short space of time. The adaptability +of the human being is nowhere better exemplified. After a time one gets +so that at night he can remove a marauding tick and cast it forth into +the darkness without even waking up. Fortunately ticks are local +in distribution. Often one may travel weeks or months without this +infliction. + +I was always interested and impressed to observe how indifferent the +wild animals seem to be to these insects. Zebra, rhinoceros and giraffe +seem to be especially good hosts. The loathsome creatures fasten +themselves in clusters wherever they can grip their fangs. Thus in +a tick country a zebra's ears, the lids and corners of his eyes, his +nostrils and lips, the soft skin between his legs and body, and between +his hind legs, and under his tail are always crusted with ticks as +thick as they can cling. One would think the drain on vitality would be +enormous, but the animals are always plump and in condition. The +same state of affairs obtains with the other two beasts named. The +hartebeeste also carries ticks but not nearly in the same abundance; +while such creatures as the waterbuck, impalla, gazelles and the smaller +bucks seem either to be absolutely free from the pests, or to have a +very few. Whether this is because such animals take the trouble to rid +themselves, or because they are more immune from attack it would be +difficult to say. I have found ticks clinging to the hair of lions, but +never fastened to the flesh. It is probable that they had been brushed +off from the grass in passing. Perhaps ticks do not like lions, +waterbuck, Tommies, et al., or perhaps only big coarse-grained common +brutes like zebra and rhinos will stand them at all. + + + + + +XX. DIVERS ADVENTURES ALONG THE TANA + +Late one afternoon I shot a wart-hog in the tall grass. The beast was an +unusually fine specimen, so I instructed Fundi and the porters to take +the head, and myself started for camp with Memba Sasa. I had gone not +over a hundred yards when I was recalled by wild and agonized appeals of +"Bwana! bwana!" The long-legged Fundi was repeatedly leaping straight +up in the air to an astonishing height above the long grass, curling +his legs up under him at each jump, and yelling like a steam-engine. +Returning promptly, I found that the wart-hog had come to life at the +first prick of the knife. He was engaged in charging back and forth in +an earnest effort to tusk Fundi, and the latter was jumping high in an +equally earnest effort to keep out of the way. Fortunately he proved +agile enough to do so until I planted another bullet in the aggressor. + +These wart-hogs are most comical brutes from whatever angle one views +them. They have a patriarchal, self-satisfied, suburban manner of +complete importance. The old gentleman bosses his harem outrageously, +and each and every member of the tribe walks about with short steps and +a stuffy parvenu small-town self-sufficiency. One is quite certain that +it is only by accident that they have long tusks and live in Africa, +instead of rubber-plants and self-made business and a pug-dog within +commuters' distance of New York. But at the slightest alarm this swollen +and puffy importance breaks down completely. Away they scurry, their +tails held stiffly and straightly perpendicular, their short legs +scrabbling the small stones in a frantic effort to go faster than nature +had intended them to go. Nor do they cease their flight at a reasonable +distance, but keep on going over hill and dale, until they fairly vanish +in the blue. I used to like starting them off this way, just for the +sake of contrast, and also for the sake of the delicious but impossible +vision of seeing their human prototypes do likewise. + +When a wart-hog is at home, he lives down a hole. Of course it has to +be a particularly large hole. He turns around and backs down it. No +more peculiar sight can be imagined than the sardonically toothsome +countenance of a wart-hog fading slowly in the dimness of a deep burrow, +a good deal like Alice's Cheshire Cat. Firing a revolver, preferably +with smoky black powder, just in front of the hole annoys the wart-hog +exceedingly. Out he comes full tilt, bent on damaging some one, and it +takes quick shooting to prevent his doing so. + +Once, many hundreds of miles south of the Tana, and many months later, +we were riding quite peaceably through the country, when we were +startled by the sound of a deep and continuous roaring in a small brush +patch to our left. We advanced cautiously to a prospective lion, only +to discover that the roaring proceeded from the depths of a wart-hog +burrow. The reverberation of our footsteps on the hollow ground had +alarmed him. He was a very nervous wart-hog. + +On another occasion, when returning to camp from a solitary walk, I saw +two wart-hogs before they saw me. I made no attempt to conceal myself, +but stood absolutely motionless. They fed slowly nearer and nearer until +at last they were not over twenty yards away. When finally they made +me out, their indignation and amazement and utter incredulity were very +funny. In fact, they did not believe in me at all for some few snorty +moments. Finally they departed, their absurd tails stiff upright. + + +One afternoon F. and I, hunting along one of the wide grass bottom +lands, caught sight of a herd of an especially fine impalla. The animals +were feeding about fifty yards the other side of a small solitary bush, +and the bush grew on the sloping bank of the slight depression +that represented the dry stream bottom. We could duck down into the +depression, sneak along it, come up back of the little bush, and shoot +from very close range. Leaving the gunbearers, we proceeded to do this. + +So quietly did we move that when we rose up back of the little bush a +lioness lying under it with her cub was as surprised as we were! + +Indeed, I do not think she knew what we were, for instead of attacking, +she leaped out the other side the bush, uttering a startled snarl. At +once she whirled to come at us, but the brief respite had allowed us +to recover our own scattered wits. As she turned I caught her broadside +through the heart. Although this shot knocked her down, F. immediately +followed it with another for safety's sake. We found that actually we +had just missed stepping on her tail! + +The cub we caught a glimpse of. He was about the size of a setter dog. +We tried hard to find him, but failed. The lioness was an unusually +large one, probably about as big as the female ever grows, measuring +nine feet six inches in length, and three feet eight inches tail at the +shoulder. + +Billy had her funny times housekeeping. The kitchen department never +quite ceased marvelling at her. Whenever she went to the cook-camp to +deliver her orders she was surrounded by an attentive and respectful +audience. One day, after holding forth for some time in Swahili, she +found that she had been standing hobnailed on one of the boy's feet. + +"Why, Mahomet!" she cried. "That must hurt you! Why didn't you tell me?" + +"Memsahib," he smiled politely, "I think perhaps you move some time!" + +On another occasion she was trying to tell the cook, through Mahomet +as interpreter, that she wanted a tough old buffalo steak pounded, +boarding-house style. This evidently puzzled all hands. They turned +to in an earnest discussion of what it was all about, anyway. Billy +understood Swahili well enough at that time to gather that they could +not understand the Memsahib's wanting the meat "kibokoed"-FLOGGED. Was +it a religious rite, or a piece of revenge? They gave it up. + +"All right," said Mahomet patiently at last. "He say he do it. WHICH ONE +IS IT?" + +Part of our supplies comprised tins of dehydrated fruit. One evening +Billy decided to have a grand celebration, so she passed out a +tin marked "rhubarb" and some cornstarch, together with suitable +instructions for a fruit pudding. In a little while the cook returned. + +"Nataka m'tund-I want fruit," said he. + +Billy pointed out, severely, that he already had fruit. He went away +shaking his head. Evening and the pudding came. It looked good, and we +congratulated Billy on her culinary enterprise. Being hungry, we took +big mouthfuls. There followed splutterings and investigations. The +rhubarb can proved to be an old one containing heavy gun grease! + +When finally we parted with our faithful cook we bought him a really +wonderful many bladed knife as a present. On seeing it he slumped to the +ground-six feet of lofty dignity-and began to weep violently, rocking +back and forth in an excess of grief. + +"Why, what is it?" we inquired, alarmed. + +"Oh, Memsahib!" he wailed, the tears coursing down his cheeks, "I wanted +a watch!" + + +One morning about nine o'clock we were riding along at the edge of a +grass-grown savannah, with a low hill to our right and another about +four hundred yards ahead. Suddenly two rhinoceroses came to their feet +some fifty yards to our left out in the high grass, and stood looking +uncertainly in our direction. + +"Look out! Rhinos!" I warned instantly. + +"Why-why!" gasped Billy in an astonished tone of voice, "they have +manes!" + +In some concern for her sanity I glanced in her direction. She was +staring, not to her left, but straight ahead. I followed the direction +of her gaze, to see three lions moving across the face of the hill. + +Instantly we dropped off our horses. We wanted a shot at those +lions very much indeed, but were hampered in our efforts by the +two rhinoceroses, now stamping, snorting, and moving slowly in our +direction. The language we muttered was racy, but we dropped to a +kneeling position and opened fire on the disappearing lions. It was +most distinctly a case of divided attention, one eye on those menacing +rhinos, and one trying to attend to the always delicate operation of +aligning sights and signalling from a rather distracted brain just when +to pull the trigger. Our faithful gunbearers crouched by us, the heavy +guns ready. + +One rhino seemed either peaceable or stupid. He showed no inclination +either to attack or to depart, but was willing to back whatever play his +friend might decide on. The friend charged toward us until we began to +think he meant battle, stopped, thought a moment, and then, followed by +his companion, trotted slowly across our bows about eighty yards away, +while we continued our long range practice at the lions over their +backs. + +In this we were not winning many cigars. F. had a 280-calibre rifle +shooting the Ross cartridge through the much advertised grooveless oval +bore. It was little accurate beyond a hundred yards. Memba Sasa had +thrust the 405 into my hand, knowing it for the "lion gun," and kept +just out of reach with the long-range Springfield. I had no time to +argue the matter with him. The 405 has a trajectory like a rainbow +at that distance, and I was guessing at it, and not making very good +guesses either. B. had his Springfield and made closer practice, finally +hitting a leg of one of the beasts. We saw him lift his paw and shake +it, but he did not move lamely afterward, so the damage was probably +confined to a simple scrape. It was a good shot anyway. Then they +disappeared over the top of the hill. + +We walked forward, regretting rhinos. Thirty yards ahead of me came a +thunderous and roaring growl, and a magnificent old lion reared his head +from a low bush. He evidently intended mischief, for I could see his +tail switching. However, B. had killed only one lion and I wanted very +much to give him the shot. Therefore, I held the front sight on the +middle of his chest, and uttered a fervent wish to myself that B. would +hurry up. In about ten seconds the muzzle of his rifle poked over my +shoulder, so I resigned the job. + +At B.'s shot the lion fell over, but was immediately up and trying to +get at us. Then we saw that his hind quarters were paralyzed. He was +a most magnificent sight as he reared his fine old head, roaring at us +full mouthed so that the very air trembled. Billy had a good look at a +lion in action. B. took up a commanding position on an ant hill to one +side with his rifle levelled. F. and I advanced slowly side by side. +At twelve feet from the wounded beast stopped, F. unlimbered the kodak, +while I held the bead of the 405 between the lion's eyes, ready to press +trigger at the first forward movement, however slight. Thus we took +several exposures in the two cameras. Unfortunately one of the cameras +fell in the river the next day. The other contained but one exposure. +While not so spectacular as some of those spoiled, it shows very well +the erect mane, the wicked narrowing of the eyes, the flattening of the +ears of an angry lion. You must imagine, furthermore, the deep rumbling +diapason of his growling. + +We backed away, and B. put in the finishing shot. The first bullet, +we then found, had penetrated the kidneys, thus inflicting a temporary +paralysis. + +When we came to skin him we found an old-fashioned lead bullet between +the bones of his right forepaw. The entrance wound had so entirely +healed over that hardly the trace of a scar remained. From what I know +of the character of these beasts, I have no doubt that this ancient +injury furnished the reason for his staying to attack us instead of +departing with the other three lions over the hill. + + +Following the course of the river, we one afternoon came around a bend +on a huge herd of mixed game that had been down to water. The river, +a quite impassable barrier lay to our right, and an equally impassable +precipitous ravine barred their flight ahead. They were forced to cross +our front, quite close, within the hundred yards. We stopped to watch +them go, a seemingly endless file of them, some very much frightened, +bounding spasmodically as though stung; others more philosophical, +loping easily and unconcernedly; still others to a few-even stopping for +a moment to get a good view of us. The very young creatures, as always, +bounced along absolutely stiff-legged, exactly like wooden animals +suspended by an elastic, touching the ground and rebounding high, +without a bend of the knee nor an apparent effort of the muscles. +Young animals seem to have to learn how to bend their legs for the most +efficient travel. The same is true of human babies as well. In this herd +were, we estimated, some four or five hundred beasts. + + +While hunting near the foothills I came across the body of a large eagle +suspended by one leg from the crotch of a limb. The bird's talon had +missed its grip, probably on alighting, the tarsus had slipped through +the crotch beyond the joint, the eagle had fallen forward, and had never +been able to flop itself back to an upright position! + + + + + +XXI. THE RHINOCEROS + +The rhinoceros is, with the giraffe, the hippopotamus, the gerenuk, and +the camel, one of Africa's unbelievable animals. Nobody has bettered +Kipling's description of him in the Just-so Stories: "A horn on his +nose, piggy eyes, and few manners." He lives a self-centred life, +wrapped up in the porcine contentment that broods within nor looks +abroad over the land. When anything external to himself and his food +and drink penetrates to his intelligence he makes a flurried fool of +himself, rushing madly and frantically here and there in a hysterical +effort either to destroy or get away from the cause of disturbance. He +is the incarnation of a living and perpetual Grouch. + +Generally he lives by himself, sometimes with his spouse, more rarely +still with a third that is probably a grown-up son or daughter. I +personally have never seen more than three in company. Some observers +have reported larger bands, or rather collections, but, lacking other +evidence, I should be inclined to suspect that some circumstances of +food or water rather than a sense of gregariousness had attracted a +number of individuals to one locality. + +The rhinoceros has three objects in life: to fill his stomach with food +and water, to stand absolutely motionless under a bush, and to imitate +ant hills when he lies down in the tall grass. When disturbed at any +of these occupations he snorts. The snort sounds exactly as though the +safety valve of a locomotive had suddenly opened and as suddenly shut +again after two seconds of escaping steam. Then he puts his head down +and rushes madly in some direction, generally upwind. As he weighs +about two tons, and can, in spite of his appearance, get over the ground +nearly as fast as an ordinary horse, he is a truly imposing sight, +especially since the innocent bystander generally happens to be upwind, +and hence in the general path of progress. This is because the rhino's +scent is his keenest sense, and through it he becomes aware, in the +majority of times, of man's presence. His sight is very poor indeed; he +cannot see clearly even a moving object much beyond fifty yards. He can, +however, hear pretty well. + +The novice, then, is subjected to what he calls a "vicious charge" on +the part of the rhinoceros, merely because his scent was borne to the +beast from upwind, and the rhino naturally runs away upwind. He opens +fire, and has another thrilling adventure to relate. As a matter of +fact, if he had approached from the other side, and then aroused the +animal with a clod of earth, the beast would probably have "charged" +away in identically the same direction. I am convinced from a fairly +varied experience that this is the basis for most of the thrilling +experiences with rhinoceroses. + +But whatever the beast's first mental attitude, the danger is quite +real. In the beginning he rushes, upwind in instinctive reaction against +the strange scent. If he catches sight of the man at all, it must be +after he has approached to pretty close range, for only at close range +are the rhino's eyes effective. Then he is quite likely to finish what +was at first a blind dash by a genuine charge. Whether this is from +malice or from the panicky feeling that he is now too close to attempt +to get away, I never was able determine. It is probably in the majority +of cases the latter. This seems indicated by the fact that the rhino, if +avoided in his first rush, will generally charge right through and keep +on going. Occasionally, however, he will whirl and come back to the +attack. There can then be no doubt that he actually intends mischief. + +Nor must it be forgotten that with these animals, AS WITH ALL OTHERS, +not enough account is taken of individual variation. They, as well as +man, and as well as other animals, have their cowards, their fighters, +their slothful and their enterprising. And, too, there seem to be +truculent and peaceful districts. North of Mt. Kenia, between that peak +and the Northern Guaso Nyero River, we saw many rhinos, none of which +showed the slightest disposition to turn ugly. In fact, they were so +peaceful that they scrabbled off as fast as they could go every time +they either scented, heard, or SAW us; and in their flight they held +their noses up, not down. In the wide angle between the Tana and Thika +rivers, and comprising the Yatta Plains, and in the thickets of the +Tsavo, the rhinoceroses generally ran nose down in a position of attack +and were much inclined to let their angry passions master them at the +sight of man. Thus we never had our safari scattered by rhinoceroses +in the former district, while in the latter the boys were up trees six +times in the course of one morning! Carl Akeley, with a moving picture +machine, could not tease a charge out of a rhino in a dozen tries, while +Dugmore, in a different part of the country, was so chivied about that +he finally left the district to avoid killing any more of the brutes in +self-defence! + +The fact of the matter is that the rhinoceros is neither animated by the +implacable man-destroying passion ascribed to him by the amateur hunter, +nor is he so purposeless and haphazard in his rushes as some would have +us believe. On being disturbed his instinct is to get away. He generally +tries to get away in the direction of the disturbance, or upwind, as the +case may be. If he catches sight of the cause of disturbance he is apt +to try to trample and gore it, whatever it is. As his sight is short, +he will sometimes so inflict punishment on unoffending bushes. In doing +this he is probably not animated by a consuming destructive blind rage, +but by a naturally pugnacious desire to eliminate sources of annoyance. +Missing a definite object, he thunders right through and disappears +without trying again to discover what has aroused him. + +This first rush is not a charge in the sense that it is an attack on a +definite object. It may not, and probably will not, amount to a charge +at all, for the beast will blunder through without ever defining more +clearly the object of his blind dash. That dash is likely, however, at +any moment, to turn into a definite charge should the rhinoceros happen +to catch sight of his disturber. Whether the impelling motive would then +be a mistaken notion that on the part of the beast he was so close he +had to fight, or just plain malice, would not matter. At such times the +intended victim is not interested in the rhino's mental processes. + +Owing to his size, his powerful armament, and his incredible quickness +the rhinoceros is a dangerous animal at all times, to be treated with +respect and due caution. This is proved by the number of white men, +out of a sparse population, that are annually tossed and killed by the +brutes, and by the promptness with which the natives take to trees-thorn +trees at that!-when the cry of faru! is raised. As he comes rushing in +your direction, head down and long weapon pointed, tail rigidly erect, +ears up, the earth trembling with his tread and the air with his snorts, +you suddenly feel very small and ineffective. + +If you keep cool, however, it is probable that the encounter will +result only in a lot of mental perturbation for the rhino and a bit +of excitement for yourself. If there is any cover you should duck down +behind it and move rapidly but quietly to one side or another of the +line of advance. If there is no cover, you should crouch low and hold +still. The chances are he will pass to one side or the other of you, and +go snorting away into the distance. Keep your eye on him very closely. +If he swerves definitely in your direction, AND DROPS HIS HEAD A LITTLE +LOWER, it would be just as well to open fire. Provided the beast was +still far enough away to give me "sea-room," I used to put a small +bullet in the flesh of the outer part of the shoulder. The wound thus +inflicted was not at all serious, but the shock of the bullet usually +turned the beast. This was generally in the direction of the wounded +shoulder, which would indicate that the brute turned toward the apparent +source of the attack, probably for the purpose of getting even. At +any rate, the shot turned the rush to one side, and the rhinoceros, as +usual, went right on through. If, however, he seemed to mean business, +or was too close for comfort, the point to aim for was the neck just +above the lowered horn. + +In my own experience I came to establish a "dead line" about twenty +yards from myself. That seemed to be as near as I cared to let the +brutes come. Up to that point I let them alone on the chance that they +might swerve or change their minds, as they often did. But inside of +twenty yards, whether the rhinoceros meant to charge me, or was merely +running blindly by, did not particularly matter. Even in the latter case +he might happen to catch sight of me and change his mind. Thus, +looking over my notebook records, I find that I was "charged" forty odd +times-that is to say, the rhinoceros rushed in my general direction. Of +this lot I can be sure of but three, and possibly four, that certainly +meant mischief. Six more came so directly at us, and continued so to +come, that in spite of ourselves we were compelled to kill them. The +rest were successfully dodged. + +As I have heard old hunters of many times my experience, affirm that +only in a few instances have they themselves been charged indubitably +and with malice aforethought, it might be well to detail my reasons for +believing myself definitely and not blindly attacked. + +The first instance was that when B. killed his second trophy rhinoceros. +The beast's companion refused to leave the dead body for a long time, +but finally withdrew. On our approaching, however, and after we had +been some moments occupied with the trophy, it returned and charged +viciously. It was finally killed at fifteen yards. + +The second instance was of a rhinoceros that got up from the grass +sixty yards away, and came headlong in my direction. At the moment I +was standing on the edge of a narrow eroded ravine, ten feet deep, with +perpendicular sides. The rhinoceros came on bravely to the edge of this +ravine-and stopped. Then he gave an exhibition of unmitigated bad temper +most amusing to contemplate-from my safe position. He snorted, and +stamped, and pawed the earth, and tramped up and down at a great rate. +I sat on the opposite bank and laughed at him. This did not please him +a bit, but after many short rushes to the edge of the ravine, he gave +it up and departed slowly, his tail very erect and rigid. From the +persistency with which he tried to get at me, I cannot but think he +intended something of the sort from the first. + +The third instance was much more aggravating. In company with Memba Sasa +and Fundi I left camp early one morning to get a waterbuck. Four or five +hundred yards out, however, we came on fresh buffalo signs, not an hour +old. To one who knew anything of buffaloes' habits this seemed like an +excellent chance, for at this time of the morning they should be feeding +not far away preparatory to seeking cover for the day. Therefore we +immediately took up the trail. + +It led us over hills, through valleys, high grass, burned country, +brush, thin scrub, and small woodland alternately. Unfortunately we had +happened on these buffalo just as they were about changing district, and +they were therefore travelling steadily. At times the trail was easy to +follow and at other times we had to cast about very diligently to +find traces of the direction even such huge animals had taken. It was +interesting work, however, and we drew on steadily, keeping a sharp +lookout ahead in case the buffalo had come to a halt in some shady +thicket out of the sun. As the latter ascended the heavens and the +scorching heat increased, our confidence in nearing our quarry +ascended likewise, for we knew that buffaloes do not like great heat. +Nevertheless this band continued straight on its way. I think now they +must have got scent of our camp, and had therefore decided to move to +one of the alternate and widely separated feeding grounds every herd +keeps in its habitat. Only at noon, and after six hours of steady +trailing, covering perhaps a dozen miles, did we catch them up. + +From the start we had been bothered with rhinoceroses. Five times did +we encounter them, standing almost squarely on the line of the spoor we +were following. Then we had to make a wide quiet circle to leeward in +order to avoid disturbing them, and were forced to a very minute search +in order to pick up the buffalo tracks again on the other side. This was +at once an anxiety and a delay, and we did not love those rhino. + +Finally, at the very edge of the Yatta Plains we overtook the herd, +resting for noon in a scattered thicket. Leaving Fundi, I, with Memba +Sasa, stalked down to them. We crawled and crept by inches flat to the +ground, which was so hot that it fairly burned the hand. The sun beat +down on us fiercely, and the air was close and heavy even among the +scanty grass tufts in which we were trying to get cover. It was very +hard work indeed, but after a half hour of it we gained a thin bush not +over thirty yards from a half dozen dark and indeterminate bodies dozing +in the very centre of a brush patch. Cautiously I wiped the sweat +from my eyes and raised my glasses. It was slow work and patient work, +picking out and examining each individual beast from the mass. Finally +the job was done. I let fall my glasses. + +"Monumookee y'otey-all cows," I whispered to Memba Sasa. + +We backed out of there inch by inch, with intention of circling a short +distance to the leeward, and then trying the herd again lower down. But +some awkward slight movement, probably on my part, caught the eye of +one of those blessed cows. She threw up her head; instantly the whole +thicket seemed alive with beasts. We could hear them crashing and +stamping, breaking the brush, rushing headlong and stopping again; we +could even catch momentary glimpses of dark bodies. After a few minutes +we saw the mass of the herd emerge from the thicket five hundred yards +away and flow up over the hill. There were probably a hundred and fifty +of them, and, looking through my glasses, I saw among them two fine old +bulls. They were of course not much alarmed, as only the one cow knew +what it was all about anyway, and I suspected they would stop at the +next thicket. + +We had only one small canteen of water with us, but we divided that. It +probably did us good, but the quantity was not sufficient to touch our +thirst. For the remainder of the day we suffered rather severely, as the +sun was fierce. + +After a short interval we followed on after the buffaloes. Within a half +mile beyond the crest of the hill over which they had disappeared +was another thicket. At the very edge of the thicket, asleep under an +outlying bush, stood one of the big bulls! + +Luck seemed with us at last. The wind was right, and between us and the +bull lay only four hundred yards of knee-high grass. All we had to +do was to get down on our hands and knees, and, without further +precautions, crawl up within range and pot him. That meant only a bit of +hard, hot work. + +When we were about halfway a rhinoceros suddenly arose from the grass +between us and the buffalo, and about one hundred yards away. + +What had aroused him, at that distance and upwind, I do not know. It +hardly seemed possible that he could have heard us, for we were moving +very quietly, and, as I say, we were downwind. However, there he was +on his feet, sniffing now this way, now that, in search for what had +alarmed him. We sank out of sight and lay low, fully expecting that the +brute would make off. + +For just twenty-five minutes by the watch that rhinoceros looked and +looked deliberately in all directions while we lay hidden waiting for +him to get over it. Sometimes he would start off quite confidently for +fifty or sixty yards, so that we thought at last we were rid of him, but +always he returned to the exact spot where we had first seen him, +there to stamp, and blow. The buffalo paid no attention to these +manifestations. I suppose everybody in jungleland is accustomed to +rhinoceros bad temper over nothing. Twice he came in our direction, but +both times gave it up after advancing twenty-five yards or so. We lay +flat on our faces, the vertical sun slowly roasting us, and cursed that +rhino. + +Now the significance of this incident is twofold: first, the fact that, +instead of rushing off at the first intimation of our presence, as would +the average rhino, he went methodically to work to find us; second, that +he displayed such remarkable perseverance as to keep at it nearly a +half hour. This was a spirit quite at variance with that finding its +expression in the blind rush or in the sudden passionate attack. From +that point of view it seems to me that the interest and significance of +the incident can hardly be overstated. + +Four or five times we thought ourselves freed of the nuisance, but +always, just as we were about to move on, back he came, as eager as ever +to nose us out. Finally he gave it up, and, at a slow trot, started to +go away from there. And out of the three hundred and sixty degrees of +the circle where he might have gone he selected just our direction. Note +that this was downwind for him, and that rhinoceroses usually escape +upwind. + +We laid very low, hoping that, as before, he would change his mind as to +direction. But now he was no longer looking, but travelling. Nearer +and nearer he came. We could see plainly his little eyes, and hear +the regular swish, swish, swish of his thick legs brushing through the +grass. The regularity of his trot never varied, but to me lying there +directly in his path, he seemed to be coming on altogether too fast +for comfort. From our low level he looked as big as a barn. Memba Sasa +touched me lightly on the leg. I hated to shoot, but finally when he +loomed fairly over us I saw it must be now or never. If I allowed him to +come closer, he must indubitably catch the first movement of my gun +and so charge right on us before I would have time to deliver even an +ineffective shot. Therefore, most reluctantly, I placed the ivory bead +of the great Holland gun just to the point of his shoulder and pulled +the trigger. So close was he that as he toppled forward I instinctively, +though unnecessarily of course, shrank back as though he might fall on +me. Fortunately I had picked my spot properly, and no second shot was +necessary. He fell just twenty-seven feet-nine yards--from where we lay! + +The buffalo vanished into the blue. We were left with a dead rhino, +which we did not want, twelve miles from camp, and no water. It was +a hard hike back, but we made it finally, though nearly perished from +thirst. + +This beast, be it noted, did not charge us at all, but I consider him +as one of the three undoubtedly animated by hostile intentions. Of the +others I can, at this moment, remember five that might or might not have +been actually and maliciously charging when they were killed or dodged. +I am no mind reader for rhinoceros. Also I am willing to believe in +their entirely altruistic intentions. Only, if they want to get the +practical results of their said altruistic intentions they must really +refrain from coming straight at me nearer than twenty yards. It has been +stated that if one stands perfectly still until the rhinoceros is just +six feet away, and then jumps sideways, the beast will pass him. I never +happened to meet anybody who had acted on this theory. I suppose that +such exist: though I doubt if any persistent exponent of the art is +likely to exist long. Personally I like my own method, and stoutly +maintain that within twenty yards it is up to the rhinoceros to begin to +do the dodging. + + + + + +XXII. THE RHINOCEROS-(continued) + +At first the traveller is pleased and curious over rhinoceros. After he +has seen and encountered eight or ten, he begins to look upon them as +an unmitigated nuisance. By the time he has done a week in thick +rhino-infested scrub he gets fairly to hating them. + +They are bad enough in the open plains, where they can be seen and +avoided, but in the tall grass or the scrub they are a continuous +anxiety. No cover seems small enough to reveal them. Often they will +stand or lie absolutely immobile until you are within a very short +distance, and then will outrageously break out. They are, in spite of +their clumsy build, as quick and active as polo ponies, and are the +only beasts I know of capable of leaping into full speed ahead from a +recumbent position. In thorn scrub they are the worst, for there, no +matter how alert the traveller may hold himself, he is likely to come +around a bush smack on one. And a dozen times a day the throat-stopping, +abrupt crash and smash to right or left brings him up all standing, his +heart racing, the blood pounding through his veins. It is jumpy work, +and is very hard on the temper. In the natural reaction from being +startled into fits one snaps back to profanity. The cumulative effects +of the epithets hurled after a departing and inconsiderately hasty +rhinoceros may have done something toward ruining the temper of the +species. It does not matter whether or not the individual beast proves +dangerous; he is inevitably most startling. I have come in at night +with my eyes fairly aching from spying for rhinos during a day's journey +through high grass. + +And, as a friend remarked, rhinos are such a mussy death. One poor chap, +killed while we were away on our first trip, could not be moved from +the spot where he had been trampled. A few shovelfuls of earth over the +remains was all the rhinoceros had left possible. + +Fortunately, in the thick stuff especially, it is often possible to +avoid the chance rhinoceros through the warning given by the rhinoceros +birds. These are birds about the size of a robin that accompany the +beast everywhere. They sit in a row along his back occupying themselves +with ticks and a good place to roost. Always they are peaceful and quiet +until a human being approaches. Then they flutter a few feet into the +air uttering a peculiar rapid chattering. Writers with more sentiment +than sense of proportion assure us that this warns the rhinoceros of +approaching danger! On the contrary, I always looked at it the other +way. The rhinoceros birds thereby warned ME of danger, and I was duly +thankful. + +The safari boys stand quite justly in a holy awe of the rhino. The +safari is strung out over a mile or two of country, as a usual thing, +and a downwind rhino is sure to pierce some part of the line in his +rush. Then down go the loads with a smash, and up the nearest trees +swarm the boys. Usually their refuges are thorn trees, armed, even on +the main trunk, with long sharp spikes. There is no difficulty in going +up, but the gingerly coming down, after all the excitement has died, is +a matter of deliberation and of voices uplifted in woe. Cuninghame tells +of an inadequate slender and springy, but solitary, sapling into which +swarmed half his safari on the advent of a rambunctious rhino. The tree +swayed and bent and cracked alarmingly, threatening to dump the whole +lot on the ground. At each crack the boys yelled. This attracted the +rhinoceros, which immediately charged the tree full tilt. He hit square, +the tree shivered and creaked, the boys wound their arms and legs around +the slender support and howled frantically. Again and again rhinoceros +drew back to repeat his butting of that tree. By the time Cuninghame +reached the spot, the tree, with its despairing burden of black birds, +was clinging to the soil by its last remaining roots. + +In the Nairobi Club I met a gentleman with one arm gone at the shoulder. +He told his story in a slightly bored and drawling voice, picking +his words very carefully, and evidently most occupied with neither +understating nor overstating the case. It seems he had been out, and had +killed some sort of a buck. While his men were occupied with this, he +strolled on alone to see what he could find. He found a rhinoceros, that +charged viciously, and into which he emptied his gun. + +"When I came to," he said, "it was just coming on dusk, and the lions +were beginning to grunt. My arm was completely crushed, and I was badly +bruised and knocked about. As near as I could remember I was fully ten +miles from camp. A circle of carrion birds stood all about me not more +than ten feet away, and a great many others were flapping over me and +fighting in the air. These last were so close that I could feel the wind +from their wings. It was rawther gruesome." He paused and thought a a +moment, as though weighing his words. "In fact," he added with an air of +final conviction, "it was QUITE gruesome!" + +The most calm and imperturbable rhinoceros I ever saw was one that made +us a call on the Thika River. It was just noon, and our boys were making +camp after a morning's march. The usual racket was on, and the usual +varied movement of rather confused industry. Suddenly silence fell. +We came out of the tent to see the safari gazing spellbound in one +direction. There was a rhinoceros wandering peaceably over the little +knoll back of camp, and headed exactly in our direction. While we +watched, he strolled through the edge of camp, descended the steep bank +to the river's edge, drank, climbed the bank, strolled through camp +again and departed over the hill. To us he paid not the slightest +attention. It seems impossible to believe that he neither scented nor +saw any evidences of human life in all that populated flat, especially +when one considers how often these beasts will SEEM to become aware of +man's presence by telepathy.* Perhaps he was the one exception to the +whole race, and was a good-natured rhino. + + * Opposing theories are those of "instinct," and of slight + causes, such a grasshoppers leaping before the hunter's + feet, not noticed by the man approaching. + +The babies are astonishing and amusing creatures, with blunt noses on +which the horns are just beginning to form, and with even fewer manners +than their parents. The mere fact of an 800-pound baby does not cease +to be curious. They are truculent little creatures, and sometimes rather +hard to avoid when they get on the warpath. Generally, as far as my +observation goes, the mother gives birth to but one at a time. There may +be occasional twin births, but I happen never to have met so interesting +a family. + +Rhinoceroses are still very numerous-too numerous. I have seen as many +as fourteen in two hours, and probably could have found as many more +if I had been searching for them. There is no doubt, however, that this +species must be the first to disappear of the larger African animals. +His great size combined with his 'orrid 'abits mark him for early +destruction. No such dangerous lunatic can be allowed at large in a +settled country, nor in a country where men are travelling constantly. +The species will probably be preserved in appropriate restricted +areas. It would be a great pity to have so perfect an example of the +Prehistoric Pinhead wiped out completely. Elsewhere he will diminish, +and finally disappear. + +For one thing, and for one thing only, is the traveller indebted to the +rhinoceros. The beast is lazy, large, and has an excellent eye for easy +ways through. For this reason, as regards the question of good roads, he +combines the excellent qualities of Public Sentiment, the Steam Roller, +and the Expert Engineer. Through thorn thickets impenetrable to anything +less armoured than a Dreadnaught like himself he clears excellent +paths. Down and out of eroded ravines with perpendicular sides he makes +excellent wide trails, tramped hard, on easy grades, often with zigzags +to ease the slant. In some of the high country where the torrential +rains wash hundreds of such gullies across the line of march it +is hardly an exaggeration to say that travel would be practically +impossible without the rhino trails wherewith to cross. Sometimes the +perpendicular banks will extend for miles without offering any natural +break down to the stream-bed. Since this is so I respectfully submit to +Government the following proposal: + +(a) That a limited number of these beasts shall be licensed as Trail +Rhinos; and that all the rest shall be killed from the settled and +regularly travelled districts. + +(b) That these Trail Rhinos shall be suitably hobbled by short steel +chains. + +(c) That each Trail Rhino shall carry painted conspicuously on his side +his serial number. + +(d) That as a further precaution for public safety each Trail Rhino +shall carry firmly attached to his tail a suitable red warning flag. +Thus the well-known habit of the rhinoceros of elevating his tail +rigidly when about to charge, or when in the act of charging, will fly +the flag as a warning to travellers. + +(e) That an official shall be appointed to be known as the Inspector of +Rhinos whose duty it shall be to examine the hobbles, numbers and flags +of all Trail Rhinos, and to keep the same in due working order and +repair. + +And I do submit to all and sundry that the above resolutions have as +much sense to them as have most of the petitions submitted to Government +by settlers in a new country. + + + + + +XXIII. THE HIPPO POOL + +For a number of days we camped in a grove just above a dense jungle +and not fifty paces from the bank of a deep and wide river. We could +at various points push through light low undergrowth, or stoop beneath +clear limbs, or emerge on tiny open banks and promontories to look out +over the width of the stream. The river here was some three or four +hundred feet wide. It cascaded down through various large boulders and +sluiceways to fall bubbling and boiling into deep water; it then flowed +still and sluggish for nearly a half mile and finally divided into +channels around a number of wooded islands of different sizes. In the +long still stretch dwelt about sixty hippopotamuses of all sizes. + +During our stay these hippos led a life of alarmed and angry care. +When we first arrived they were distributed picturesquely on banks or +sandbars, or were lying in midstream. At once they disappeared under +water. By the end of four or five minutes they began to come to the +surface. Each beast took one disgusted look, snorted, and sank again. +So hasty was his action that he did not even take time to get a full +breath; consequently up he had to come in not more than two minutes, +this time. The third submersion lasted less than a minute; and at the +end of half hour of yelling we had the hippos alternating between the +bottom of the river and the surface of the water about as fast as they +could make a round trip, blowing like porpoises. It was a comical sight. +And as some of the boys were always out watching the show, those hippos +had no respite during the daylight hours. From a short distance inland +the explosive blowing as they came to the surface sounded like the +irregular exhaust of a steam-engine. + +We camped at this spot four days; and never, in that length of time, +during the daytime, did those hippopotamuses take any recreation and +rest. To be sure after a little they calmed down sufficiently to remain +on the surface for a half minute or so, instead of gasping a mouthful of +air and plunging below at once; but below was where they considered they +belonged most of the time. We got to recognize certain individuals. They +would stare at us fixedly for a while; and then would glump down out of +sight like submarines. + +When I saw them thus floating with only the very top of the head and +snout out of water, I for the first time appreciated why the Greeks had +named them hippopotamuses-the river horses. With the heavy jowl hidden; +and the prominent nostrils, the long reverse-curved nose, the wide eyes, +and the little pointed ears alone visible, they resembled more than +a little that sort of conventionalized and noble charger seen on the +frieze of the Parthenon, or in the prancy paintings of the Renaissance. + +There were hippopotamuses of all sizes and of all colours. The +little ones, not bigger than a grand piano, were of flesh pink. Those +half-grown were mottled with pink and black in blotches. The adults were +almost invariably all dark, though a few of them retained still a small +pink spot or so-a sort of persistence in mature years of the eternal +boy-, I suppose. All were very sleek and shiny with the wet; and they +had a fashion of suddenly and violently wiggling one or the other or +both of their little ears in ridiculous contrast to the fixed stare of +their bung eyes. Generally they had nothing to say as to the situation, +though occasionally some exasperated old codger would utter a grumbling +bellow. + +The ground vegetation for a good quarter mile from the river bank +was entirely destroyed, and the earth beaten and packed hard by these +animals. Landing trails had been made leading out from the water by easy +and regular grades. These trails were about two feet wide and worn a +foot or so deep. They differed from the rhino trails, from which they +could be easily distinguished, in that they showed distinctly two +parallel tracks separated from each other by a slight ridge. In other +words, the hippo waddles. These trails we found as far as four and +five miles inland. They were used, of course, only at night; and led +invariably to lush and heavy feed. While we were encamped there, the +country on our side the river was not used by our particular herd of +hippos. One night, however, we were awakened by a tremendous rending +crash of breaking bushes, followed by an instant's silence and then the +outbreak of a babel of voices. Then we heard a prolonged sw-i-sh-sh-sh, +exactly like the launching of a big boat. A hippo had blundered out the +wrong side the river, and fairly into our camp. + +In rivers such as the Tana these great beasts are most extraordinarily +abundant. Directly in front of our camp, for example, were three +separate herds which contained respectively about sixty, forty, and +twenty-five head. Within two miles below camp were three other big pools +each with its population; while a walk of a mile above showed about as +many more. This sort of thing obtained for practically the whole length +of the river-hundreds of miles. Furthermore, every little tributary +stream, no matter how small, provided it can muster a pool or so deep +enough to submerge so large an animal, has its faithful band. I have +known of a hippo quite happily occupying a ditch pool ten feet wide and +fifteen feet long. There was literally not room enough for the beast to +turn around; he had to go in at one end and out at the other! Each lake, +too, is alive with them; and both lakes and rivers are many. + +Nobody disturbs hippos, save for trophies and an occasional supply of +meat for the men or of cooking fat for the kitchen. Therefore they wax +fat and sassy, and will long continue to flourish in the land. + +It takes time to kill a hippo, provided one is wanted. The mark is +small, and generally it is impossible to tell whether or not the bullet +has reached the brain. Harmed or whole the beast sinks anyway. Some +hours later the distention of the stomach will float the body. Therefore +the only decent way to do is to take the shot, and then wait a half +day to see whether or not you have missed. There are always plenty of +volunteers in camp to watch the pool, for the boys are extravagantly +fond of hippo meat. Then it is necessary to manoeuvre a rope on the +carcass, often a matter of great difficulty, for the other hippos bellow +and snort and try to live up to the circus posters of the Blood-sweating +Behemoth of Holy Writ, and the crocodiles like dark meat very much. +Usually one offers especial reward to volunteers, and shoots into the +water to frighten the beasts. The volunteer dashes rapidly across the +shallows, makes a swift plunge, and clambers out on the floating body as +onto a raft. + +Then he makes fast the rope, and everybody tails on and tows the whole +outfit ashore. On one occasion the volunteer produced a fish line and +actually caught a small fish from the floating carcass! This sounds like +a good one; but I saw it with my own two eyes. + +It was at the hippo pool camp that we first became acquainted with Funny +Face. + +Funny Face was the smallest, furriest little monkey you ever saw. I +never cared for monkeys before; but this one was altogether engaging. He +had thick soft fur almost like that on a Persian cat, and a tiny human +black face, and hands that emerged from a ruff; and he was about as big +as old-fashioned dolls used to be before they began to try to imitate +real babies with them. That is to say, he was that big when we said +farewell to him. When we first knew him, had he stood in a half pint +measure he could just have seen over the rim. We caught him in a little +thorn ravine all by himself, a fact that perhaps indicates that his +mother had been killed, or perhaps that he, like a good little Funny +Face, was merely staying where he was told while she was away. At any +rate he fought savagely, according to his small powers. We took him +ignominiously by the scruff of the neck, haled him to camp, and dumped +him down on Billy. Billy constructed him a beautiful belt by sacrificing +part of a kodak strap (mine), and tied him to a chop box filled with dry +grass. Thenceforth this became Funny Face's castle, at home and on the +march. + +Within a few hours his confidence in life was restored. He accepted +small articles of food from our hands, eyeing us intently, retired and +examined them. As they all proved desirable, he rapidly came to the +conclusion that these new large strange monkeys, while not so beautiful +and agile as his own people, were nevertheless a good sort after all. +Therefore he took us into his confidence. By next day he was quite +tame, would submit to being picked up without struggling, and had ceased +trying to take an end off our various fingers. In fact when the finger +was presented, he would seize it in both small black hands; convey it +to his mouth; give it several mild and gentle love-chews; and then, +clasping it with all four hands, would draw himself up like a little +athlete and seat himself upright on the outspread palm. Thence he would +survey the world, wrinkling up his tiny brow. + +This chastened and scholarly attitude of mind lasted for four or five +days. Then Funny Face concluded that he understood all about it, had +settled satisfactorily to himself all the problems of the world and +his relations to it, and had arrived at a good working basis for life. +Therefore these questions ceased to occupy him. He dismissed them from +his mind completely, and gave himself over to light-hearted frivolity. + +His disposition was flighty but full of elusive charm. You deprecated +his lack of serious purpose in life, disapproved heartily of his +irresponsibility, but you fell to his engaging qualities. He was a +typical example of the lovable good-for-naught. Nothing retained his +attention for two consecutive minutes. If he seized a nut and started +for his chop box with it, the chances were he would drop it and forget +all about it in the interest excited by a crawling ant or the colour of +a flower. His elfish face was always alight with the play of emotions +and of flashing changing interests. He was greatly given to starting off +on very important errands, which he forgot before he arrived. + +In this he contrasted strangely with his friend Darwin. Darwin was +another monkey of the same species, caught about a week later. Darwin's +face was sober and pondering, and his methods direct and effective. No +side excursions into the brilliant though evanescent fields of fancy +diverted him from his ends. These were, generally, to get the most and +best food and the warmest corner for sleep. When he had acquired a nut, +a kernel of corn, or a piece of fruit, he sat him down and examined it +thoroughly and conscientiously and then, conscientiously and thoroughly, +he devoured it. No extraneous interest could distract his attention; not +for a moment. That he had sounded the seriousness of life is proved by +the fact that he had observed and understood the flighty character +of Funny Face. When Funny Face acquired a titbit, Darwin took up a +hump-backed position near at hand, his bright little eyes fixed on his +friend's activities. Funny Face would nibble relishingly at his prune +for a moment or so; then an altogether astonishing butterfly would +flitter by just overhead. Funny Face, lost in ecstasy would gaze skyward +after the departing marvel. This was Darwin's opportunity. In two +hops he was at Funny Face's side. With great deliberation, but most +businesslike directness, Darwin disengaged Funny Face's unresisting +fingers from the prune, seized it, and retired. Funny Face never +knew it; his soul was far away after the blazoned wonder, and when it +returned, it was not to prunes at all. They were forgotten, and his +wandering eye focussed back to a bright button in the grass. Thus by +strict attention to business did Darwin prosper. + +Darwin's attitude was always serious, and his expression grave. When he +condescended to romp with Funny Face one could see that it was not for +the mere joy of sport, but for the purposes of relaxation. If offered +a gift he always examined it seriously before finally accepting it, +turning it over and over in his hands, and considering it with wrinkled +brow. If you offered anything to Funny Face, no matter what, he dashed +up, seized it on the fly, departed at speed uttering grateful low +chatterings; probably dropped and forgot it in the excitement of +something new before he had even looked to see what it was. + +"These people," said Darwin to himself, "on the whole, and as an +average, seem to give me appropriate and pleasing gifts. To be sure, it +is always well to see that they don't try to bunco me with olive stones +or such worthless trash, but still I believe they are worth cultivating +and standing in with." + +"It strikes me," observed Funny Face to himself, "that my adorable +Memsahib and my beloved bwana have been very kind to me to-day, though I +don't remember precisely how. But I certainly do love them!" + +We cut good sized holes on each of the four sides of their chop box to +afford them ventilation on the march. The box was always carried on one +of the safari boy's heads: and Funny Face and Darwin gazed forth with +great interest. It was very amusing to see the big negro striding +jauntily along under his light burden; the large brown winking eyes +glued to two of the apertures. When we arrived in camp and threw the +box cover open, they hopped forth, shook themselves, examined their +immediate surroundings and proceeded to take a little exercise. When +anything alarmed them, such as the shadow of a passing hawk, they +skittered madly up the nearest thing in sight-tent pole, tree, or human +form-- and scolded indignantly or chittered in a low tone according to +the degree of their terror. When Funny Face was very young, indeed, the +grass near camp caught fire. After the excitement was over we found him +completely buried in the straw of his box, crouched, and whimpering like +a child. As he could hardly, at his tender age, have had any previous +experience with fire, this instinctive fear was to me very interesting. + +The monkeys had only one genuine enemy. That was an innocent plush +lion named Little Simba. It had been given us in joke before we left +California, we had tucked it into an odd corner of our trunk, had +discovered it there, carried it on safari out of sheer idleness, and +lo! it had become an important member of the expedition. Every morning +Mahomet or Yusuf packed it-or rather him-carefully away in the tin box. +Promptly at the end of the day's march Little Simba was haled forth +and set in a place of honour in the centre of the table, and reigned +there-or sometimes in a little grass jungle constructed by his faithful +servitors-until the march was again resumed. His job in life was to look +after our hunting luck. When he failed to get us what we wanted, he was +punished; when he procured us what we desired he was rewarded by having +his tail sewed on afresh, or by being presented with new black thread +whiskers, or even a tiny blanket of Mericani against the cold. This +last was an especial favour for finally getting us the greater kudu. +Naturally as we did all this in the spirit of an idle joke our rewards +and punishments were rather desultory. To our surprise, however, we soon +found that our boys took Little Simba quite seriously. He was a fetish, +a little god, a power of good or bad luck. We did not appreciate this +point until one evening, after a rather disappointing day, Mahomet came +to us bearing Little Simba in his hand. + +"Bwana," said he respectfully, "is it enough that I shut Simba in the +tin box, or do you wish to flog him?" + +On one very disgraceful occasion, when everything went wrong, we +plucked Little Simba from his high throne and with him made a beautiful +drop-kick out into the tall grass. There, in a loud tone of voice, we +sternly bade him lie until the morrow. The camp was bung-eyed. It is not +given to every people to treat its gods in such fashion: indeed, in +very deed, great is the white man! To be fair, having published Little +Simba's disgrace, we should publish also Little Simba's triumph: to +tell how, at the end of a certain very lucky three months' safari he was +perched atop a pole and carried into town triumphantly at the head of +a howling, singing procession of a hundred men. He returned to America, +and now, having retired from active professional life, is leading an +honoured old age among the trophies he helped to procure. + +Funny Face first met Little Simba when on an early investigating tour. +With considerable difficulty he had shinnied up the table leg, and had +hoisted himself over the awkwardly projecting table edge. When almost +within reach of the fascinating affairs displayed atop, he looked +straight up into the face of Little Simba! Funny Face shrieked aloud, +let go all holds and fell off flat on his back. Recovering immediately, +he climbed just as high as he could, and proceeded, during the next +hour, to relieve his feelings by the most insulting chatterings and +grimaces. He never recovered from this initial experience. All that was +necessary to evoke all sorts of monkey talk was to produce Little Simba. +Against his benign plush front then broke a storm of remonstrance. +He became the object of slow advances and sudden scurrying, shrieking +retreats, that lasted just as long as he stayed there, and never got any +farther than a certain quite conservative point. Little Simba did not +mind. He was too busy being a god. + + + + + +XXIV. BUFFALO + +The Cape Buffalo is one of the four dangerous kinds of African big game; +of which the other three are the lion, the rhinoceros, and the elephant. +These latter are familiar to us in zoological gardens, although the +African and larger form of the rhinoceros and elephant are seldom or +never seen in captivity. But buffaloes are as yet unrepresented in our +living collections. They are huge beasts, tremendous from any point +of view, whether considered in height, in mass, or in power. At the +shoulder they stand from just under five feet to just under six feet in +height; they are short legged, heavy bodied bull necked, thick in every +dimension. In colour they are black as to hair, and slate gray as to +skin; so that the individual impression depends on the thickness of the +coat. They wear their horns parted in the middle, sweeping smoothly away +in the curves of two great bosses either side the head. A good trophy +will measure in spread from forty inches to four feet. Four men will +be required to carry in the head alone. As buffaloes when disturbed or +suspicious have a habit of thrusting their noses up and forward, that +position will cling to one's memory as the most typical of the species. + +A great many hunters rank the buffalo first among the dangerous beasts. +This is not my own opinion, but he is certainly dangerous enough. He +possesses the size, power, and truculence of the rhinoceros, together +with all that animal's keenness of scent and hearing but with a +sharpness of vision the rhinoceros has not. While not as clever as +either the lion or the elephant, he is tricky enough when angered to +circle back for the purpose of attacking his pursuers in the rear or +flank, and to arrange rather ingenious ambushes for the same purpose. +He is rather more tenacious of life than the rhinoceros, and will +carry away an extraordinary quantity of big bullets. Add to these +considerations the facts that buffaloes go in herds; and that, barring +luck, chances are about even they will have to be followed into the +thickest cover, it can readily be seen that their pursuit is exciting. + +The problem would be simplified were one able or willing to slip into +the thicket or up to the grazing herd and kill the nearest beast that +offers. As a matter of fact an ordinary herd will contain only two or +three bulls worth shooting; and it is the hunter's delicate task to +glide and crawl here and there, with due regard for sight, scent and +sound, until he has picked one of these from the scores of undesirables. +Many times will he worm his way by inches toward the great black bodies +half defined in the screen of thick undergrowth only to find that he has +stalked cows or small bulls. Then inch by inch he must back out again, +unable to see twenty yards to either side, guiding himself by the +probabilities of the faint chance breezes in the thicket. To right and +left he hears the quiet continued crop, crop, crop, sound of animals +grazing. The sweat runs down his face in streams, and blinds his eyes, +but only occasionally and with the utmost caution can he raise his +hand-or, better, lower his head-to clear his vision. When at last he has +withdrawn from the danger zone, he wipes his face, takes a drink from +the canteen, and tries again. Sooner or later his presence comes to the +notice of some old cow. Behind the leafy screen where unsuspected she +has been standing comes the most unexpected and heart-jumping crash! +Instantly the jungle all about roars into life. The great bodies of the +alarmed beasts hurl themselves through the thicket, smash! bang! crash! +smash! as though a tornado were uprooting the forest. Then abruptly a +complete silence! This lasts but ten seconds or so; then off rushes the +wild stampede in another direction; only again to come to a listening +halt of breathless stillness. So the hunter, unable to see anything, +and feeling very small, huddles with his gunbearers in a compact group, +listening to the wild surging short rushes, now this way, now that, +hoping that the stampede may not run over him. If by chance it does, he +has his two shots and the possibility of hugging a tree while the rush +divides around him. The latter is the most likely; a single buffalo +is hard enough to stop with two shots, let alone a herd. And yet, +sometimes, the mere flash and noise will suffice to turn them, provided +they are not actually trying to attack, but only rushing indefinitely +about. Probably a man can experience few more thrilling moments than he +will enjoy standing in one of the small leafy rooms of an African jungle +while several hundred tons of buffalo crash back and forth all around +him. + +In the best of circumstances it is only rarely that having identified +his big bull, the hunter can deliver a knockdown blow. The beast is +extraordinarily vital, and in addition it is exceedingly difficult to +get a fair, open shot. Then from the danger of being trampled down +by the blind and senseless stampede of the herd he passes to the more +defined peril from an angered and cunning single animal. The majority of +fatalities in hunting buffaloes happen while following wounded beasts. A +flank charge at close range may catch the most experienced man; and even +when clearly seen, it is difficult to stop. The buffalo's wide bosses +are a helmet to his brain, and the body shot is always chancy. The beast +tosses his victim, or tramples him, or pushes him against a tree to +crush him like a fly. + +He who would get his trophy, however, is not always-perhaps is not +generally-forced into the thicket to get it. When not much disturbed, +buffaloes are in the habit of grazing out into the open just before +dark; and of returning to their thicket cover only well after sunrise. +If the hunter can arrange to meet his herd at such a time, he stands a +very good chance of getting a clear shot. The job then requires merely +ordinary caution and manoeuvring; and the only danger, outside the +ever-present one from the wounded beast, is that the herd may charge +over him deliberately. Therefore it is well to keep out of sight. + +The difficulty generally is to locate your beasts. They wander all +night, and must be blundered upon in the early morning before they have +drifted back into the thickets. Sometimes, by sending skilled trackers +in several directions, they can be traced to where they have entered +cover. A messenger then brings the white man to the place, and every one +tries to guess at what spot the buffaloes are likely to emerge for their +evening stroll. It is remarkably easy to make a wrong guess, and the +remaining daylight is rarely sufficient to repair a mistake. And also, +in the case of a herd ranging a wide country with much tall grass and +several drinking holes, it is rather difficult, without very good luck, +to locate them on any given night or morning. A few herds, a very few, +may have fixed habits, and so prove easy hunting. + +These difficulties, while in no way formidable, are real enough in their +small way; but they are immensely increased when the herds have been +often disturbed. Disturbance need not necessarily mean shooting. In +countries unvisited by white men often the pastoral natives will so +annoy the buffalo by shoutings and other means, whenever they appear +near the tame cattle, that the huge beasts will come practically +nocturnal. In that case only the rankest luck will avail to get a man +a chance in the open. The herds cling to cover until after sundown and +just at dusk; and they return again very soon after the first streaks of +dawn. If the hunter just happens to be at the exact spot, he may get +a twilight shot when the glimmering ivory of his front sight is barely +visible. Otherwise he must go into the thicket. + +As an illustration of the first condition might be instanced an +afternoon on the Tana. The weather was very hot. We had sent three lots +of men out in different directions, each under the leadership of one +of the gunbearers, to scout, while we took it easy in the shade of our +banda, or grass shelter, on the bank of the river. About one o'clock +a messenger came into camp reporting that the men under Mavrouki had +traced a herd to its lying-down place. We took our heavy guns and +started. + +The way led through thin scrub up the long slope of a hill that broke +on the other side into undulating grass ridges that ended in a range of +hills. These were about four or five miles distant, and thinly wooded +on sides and lower slopes with what resembled a small live-oak growth. +Among these trees, our guide told us, the buffalo had first been +sighted. + +The sun was very hot, and all the animals were still. We saw impalla in +the scrub, and many giraffes and bucks on the plains. After an hour and +a half's walk we entered the parklike groves at the foot of the hills, +and our guide began to proceed more cautiously. He moved forward a few +feet, peered about, retraced his steps. Suddenly his face broke into a +broad grin. Following his indication we looked up, and there in a tree +almost above us roosted one of our boys sound asleep! We whistled at +him. Thereupon he awoke, tried to look very alert, and pointed in the +direction we should go. After an interval we picked up another sentinel, +and another, and another until, passed on thus from one to the next, +we traced the movements of the herd. Finally we came upon Mavrouki and +Simba under a bush. From them, in whispers, we learned that the buffalo +were karibu sana-very near; that they had fed this far, and were now +lying in the long grass just ahead. Leaving the men, we now continued +our forward movement on hands and knees, in single file. It was very hot +work, for the sun beat square down on us, and the tall grass kept off +every breath of air. Every few moments we rested, lying on our faces. +Occasionally, when the grass shortened, or the slant of ground tended +to expose us, we lay quite flat and hitched forward an inch at a time by +the strength of our toes. This was very severe work indeed, and we were +drenched in perspiration. In fact, as I had been feeling quite ill all +day, it became rather doubtful whether I could stand the pace. + +However after a while we managed to drop down into an eroded deep little +ravine. Here the air was like that of a furnace, but at least we could +walk upright for a few rods. This we did, with the most extraordinary +precautions against even the breaking of a twig or the rolling of a +pebble. Then we clambered to the top of the bank, wormed our way forward +another fifty feet to the shelter of a tiny bush, and stretched out to +recuperate. We lay there some time, sheltered from the sun. Then ahead +of us suddenly rumbled a deep bellow. We were fairly upon the herd! + +Cautiously F., who was nearest the centre of the bush, raised himself +alongside the stem to look. He could see where the beasts were lying, +not fifty yards away, but he could make out nothing but the fact of +great black bodies taking their ease in the grass under the shade of +trees. So much he reported to us; then rose again to keep watch. + +Thus we waited the rest of the afternoon. The sun dipped at last toward +the west, a faint irregular breeze wandered down from the hills, certain +birds awoke and uttered their clear calls, an unsuspected kongoni +stepped from the shade of a tree over the way and began to crop the +grass, the shadows were lengthening through the trees. Then ahead of +us an uneasiness ran through the herd. We in the grass could hear the +mutterings and grumblings of many great animals. Suddenly F. snapped his +fingers, stooped low and darted forward. We scrambled to our feet and +followed. + +Across a short open space we ran, bent double to the shelter of a big +ant hill. Peering over the top of this we found ourselves within sixty +yards of a long compact column of the great black beasts, moving forward +orderly to the left, the points of the cow's horns, curved up and in, +tossing slowly as the animals walked. On the flank of the herd was a big +gray bull. + +It had been agreed that B. was to have the shot. Therefore he opened +fire with his 405 Winchester, a weapon altogether too light for this +sort of work. At the shot the herd dashed forward to an open grass +meadow a few rods away, wheeled and faced back in a compact mass, their +noses thrust up and out in their typical fashion, trying with all their +senses to locate the cause of the disturbance. + +Taking advantage both of the scattered cover, and the half light of the +shadows we slipped forward as rapidly and as unobtrusively as we could +to the edge of the grass meadow. Here we came to a stand eighty yards +from the buffaloes. They stood compactly like a herd of cattle, staring, +tossing their heads, moving slightly, their wild eyes searching for us. +I saw several good bulls, but always they moved where it was impossible +to shoot without danger of getting the wrong beast. Finally my chance +came; I planted a pair of Holland bullets in the shoulder of one of +them. + +The herd broke away to the right, sweeping past us at close range. My +bull ran thirty yards with them, then went down stone dead. When we +examined him we found the hole made by B.'s Winchester bullet; so that +quite unintentionally and by accident I had fired at the same beast. +This was lucky. The trophy, by hunter's law, of course, belonged to B. + +Therefore F. and I alone followed on after the herd. It was now coming +on dusk. Within a hundred yards we began to see scattered beasts. The +formation of the herd had broken. Some had gone on in flight, while +others in small scattered groups would stop to stare back, and would +then move slowly on for a few paces before stopping again. Among these +I made out a bull facing us about a hundred and twenty-five yards away, +and managed to stagger him, but could not bring him down. + +Now occurred an incident which I should hesitate to relate were it not +that both F. and myself saw it. We have since talked it over, compared +our recollections, and found them to coincide in every particular. + +As we moved cautiously in pursuit of the slowly retreating herd three +cows broke back and came running down past us. We ducked aside and hid, +of course, but noticed that of the three two were very young, while one +was so old that she had become fairly emaciated, a very unusual thing +with buffaloes. We then followed the herd for twenty minutes, or until +twilight, when we turned back. About halfway down the slope we again met +the three cows, returning. They passed us within twenty yards, but paid +us no attention whatever. The old cow was coming along very reluctantly, +hanging back at every step, and every once in a while swinging her head +viciously at one or the other of her two companions. These escorted her +on either side, and a little to the rear. They were plainly urging her +forward, and did not hesitate to dig her in the ribs with their horns +whenever she turned especially obstinate. In fact they acted exactly +like a pair of cowboys HERDING a recalcitrant animal back to its band +and I have no doubt at all that when they first by us the old lady was +making a break for liberty in the wrong direction, AND THAT THE TWO +YOUNGER COWS WERE TRYING TO ROUND HER BACK! Whether they were her +daughters or not is problematical; but it certainly seemed that they +were taking care of her and trying to prevent her running back where +it was dangerous to go. I never heard of a similar case, though Herbert +Ward* mentions, without particulars that elephants AND BUFFALOES will +assist each other WHEN WOUNDED. + + * A Voice from the Congo. + +After passing these we returned to where B. and the men, who had now +come up, had prepared the dead bull for transportation. We started at +once, travelling by the stars, shouting and singing to discourage the +lions, but did not reach camp until well into the night. + + + + + +XXV. THE BUFFALO-continued + +Some months later, and many hundreds of miles farther south, Billy and +I found ourselves alone with twenty men, and two weeks to pass until +C.-our companion at the time-should return from a long journey out with +a wounded man. By slow stages, and relaying back and forth, we landed in +a valley so beautiful in every way that we resolved to stay as long as +possible. This could be but five days at most. At the end of that time +we must start for our prearranged rendezvous with C. + +The valley was in the shape of an ellipse, the sides of which were +formed by great clifflike mountains, and the other two by hills lower, +but still of considerable boldness and size. The longest radius was +perhaps six or eight miles, and the shortest three or four. At one end +a canyon dropped away to a lower level, and at the other a pass in the +hills gave over to the country of the Narassara River. The name of the +valley was Lengeetoto. + +From the great mountains flowed many brooks of clear sparkling water, +that ran beneath the most beautiful of open jungles, to unite finally in +one main stream that disappeared down the canyon. Between these brooks +were low broad rolling hills, sometimes grass covered, sometimes grown +thinly with bushes. Where they headed in the mountains, long stringers +of forest trees ran up to blocklike groves, apparently pasted like +wafers against the base of the cliffs, but in reality occupying spacious +slopes below them. + +We decided to camp at the foot of a long grass slant within a hundred +yards of the trees along one of the small streams. Before us we had the +sweep of brown grass rising to a clear cut skyline; and all about us the +distant great hills behind which the day dawned and fell. One afternoon +a herd of giraffes stood silhouetted on this skyline quite a half hour +gazing curiously down on our camp. Hartebeeste and zebra swarmed in +the grassy openings; and impalla in the brush. We saw sing-sing and +steinbuck, and other animals, and heard lions nearly every night. But +principally we elected to stay because a herd of buffaloes ranged the +foothills and dwelt in the groves of forest trees under the cliffs. We +wanted a buffalo; and as Lengeetoto is practically unknown to white men, +we thought this a good chance to get one. In that I reckoned without +the fact that at certain seasons the Masai bring their cattle in, and at +such times annoy the buffalo all they can. + +We started out well enough. I sent Memba Sasa with two men to locate the +herd. About three o'clock a messenger came to camp after me. We plunged +through our own jungle, crossed a low swell, traversed another jungle, +and got in touch with the other two men. They reported the buffalo +had entered the thicket a few hundred yards below us. Cautiously +reconnoitering the ground it soon became evident that we would be forced +more definitely to locate the herd. To be sure, they had entered the +stream jungle at a known point, but there could be no telling how far +they might continue in the thicket, nor on what side of it they would +emerge at sundown. Therefore we commenced cautiously and slowly follow +the trail. + +The going was very thick, naturally, and we could not see very far +ahead. Our object was not now to try for a bull, but merely to find +where the herd was feeding, in order that we might wait for it to come +out. However, we were brought to a stand, in the middle of a jungle of +green leaves, by the cropping sound of a beast grazing just the other +side of a bush. We could not see it, and we stood stock still in the +hope of escaping discovery ourselves. But an instant later a sudden +crash of wood told us we had been seen. It was near work. The gunbearers +crouched close to me. I held the heavy double gun ready. If the beast +had elected to charge I would have had less than ten yards within which +to stop it. Fortunately it did not do so. But instantly the herd was +afoot and off at full speed. A locomotive amuck in a kindling pile could +have made no more appalling a succession of rending crashes than did +those heavy animals rushing here and there through the thick woody +growth. We could see nothing. Twice the rush started in our direction, +but stopped as suddenly as it had begun, to be succeeded by absolute +stillness when everything, ourselves included, held its breath to +listen. Finally, the first panic over, the herd started definitely away +downstream. We ran as fast as we could out of the jungle to a commanding +position on the hill. Thence we could determine the course of the herd. +It continued on downstream as far as we could follow the sounds in the +convolutions of the hills. Realizing that it would improbably recover +enough from its alarmed condition to resume its regular habits that day, +we returned to camp. + +Next morning Memba Sasa and I were afield before daylight. We took no +other men. In hunting I am a strong disbeliever in the common habit of +trailing along a small army. It is simple enough, in case the kill +is made, to send back for help. No matter how skilful your men are at +stalking, the chances of alarming the game are greatly increased +by numbers; while the possibilities of misunderstanding the plan of +campaign, and so getting into the wrong place at the wrong time, are +infinite. Alone, or with one gunbearer, a man can slip in and out a herd +of formidable animals with the least chances of danger. Merely going out +after camp meat is of course a different matter. + +We did not follow in the direction taken by the herd the night before, +but struck off toward the opposite side of the valley. For two hours we +searched the wooded country at the base of the cliff mountains, working +slowly around the circle, examining every inlet, ravine and gully. +Plenty of other sorts of game we saw, including elephant tracks not +a half hour old; but no buffalo. About eight o'clock, however, while +looking through my glasses, I caught sight of some tiny chunky black +dots crawling along below the mountains diagonally across the valley, +and somewhat over three miles away. We started in that direction as fast +as we could walk. At the end of an hour we surmounted the last swell, +and stood at the edge of a steep drop. Immediately below us flowed a +good-sized stream through a high jungle over the tops of which we looked +to a triangular gentle slope overgrown with scattered bushes and high +grass. Beyond this again ran another jungle, angling up hill from +the first, to end in a forest of trees about thirty or forty acres in +extent. This jungle and these trees were backed up against the slope of +the mountain. The buffaloes we had first seen above the grove: they must +now have sought cover among either the trees or the lower jungle, and +it seemed reasonable that the beasts would emerge on the grass and bush +area late in the afternoon. Therefore Memba Sasa and I selected good +comfortable sheltered spots, leaned our backs against rocks, and +resigned ourselves to long patience. It was now about nine o'clock in +the morning, and we could not expect our game to come out before half +past three at earliest. We could not, however, go away to come back +later because of the chance that the buffaloes might take it into their +heads to go travelling. I had been fooled that way before. For this +reason, also, it was necessary, every five minutes or so, to examine +carefully all our boundaries; lest the beasts might be slipping away +through the cover. + +The hours passed very slowly. We made lunch last as long as possible. I +had in my pocket a small edition of Hawthorne's "The House of the Seven +Gables," which I read, pausing every few minutes to raise my glasses +for the periodical examination of the country. The mental focussing +back from the pale gray half light of Hawthorne's New England to the +actuality of wild Africa was a most extraordinary experience. + +Through the heat of the day the world lay absolutely silent. At about +half-past three, however, we heard rumblings and low bellows from the +trees a half mile away. I repocketed Hawthorne, and aroused myself to +continuous alertness. + +The ensuing two hours passed more slowly than all the rest of the +day, for we were constantly on the lookout. The buffaloes delayed most +singularly, seemingly reluctant to leave their deep cover. The sun +dropped behind the mountains, and their shadow commenced to climb the +opposite range. I glanced at my watch. We had not more than a half hour +of daylight left. + +Fifteen minutes of this passed. It began to look as though our long +and monotonous wait had been quite in vain; when, right below us, and +perhaps five hundred yards away, four great black bodies fed leisurely +from the bushes. Three of them we could see plainly. Two were bulls +of fair size. The fourth, half concealed in the brush, was by far the +biggest of the lot. + +In order to reach them we would have to slip down the face of the hill +on which we sat, cross the stream jungle at the bottom, climb out the +other side, and make our stalk to within range. With a half hour more +of daylight this would have been comparatively easy, but in such +circumstances it is difficult to move at the same time rapidly and +unseen. However, we decided to make the attempt. To that end we +disencumbered ourselves of all our extras-lunch box, book, kodak, +glasses, etc.-and wormed our way as rapidly as possible toward the +bottom of the hill. We utilized the cover as much as we were able, but +nevertheless breathed a sigh of relief when we had dropped below the +line of the jungle. We wasted very little time crossing the latter, +save for precautions against noise. Even in my haste, however, I had +opportunity to notice its high and austere character, with the arching +overhead vines, and the clear freedom from undergrowth in its heart. +Across this cleared space we ran at full speed, crouching below the +grasp of the vines, splashed across the brook and dashed up the other +bank. Only a faint glimmer of light lingered in the jungle. At the upper +edge we paused, collected ourselves, and pushed cautiously through the +thick border-screen of bush. + +The twilight was just fading into dusk. Of course we had taken our +bearings from the other hill; so now, after reassuring ourselves of +them, we began to wriggle our way at a great pace through the high +grass. Our calculations were quite accurate. We stalked successfully, +and at last, drenched in sweat, found ourselves lying flat within ten +yards of a small bush behind which we could make out dimly the black +mass of the largest beast we had seen from across the way. + +Although it was now practically dark, we had the game in our own hands. +From our low position the animal, once it fed forward from behind the +single small bush, would be plainly outlined against the sky, and at ten +yards I should be able to place my heavy bullets properly, even in the +dark. Therefore, quite easy in our minds, we lay flat and rested. At the +end of twenty seconds the animal began to step forward. I levelled my +double gun, ready to press trigger the moment the shoulder appeared in +the clear. Then against the saffron sky emerged the ugly outline and two +upstanding horns of a rhinoceros! + +"Faru!" I whispered disgustedly to Memba Sasa. With infinite pains we +backed out, then retreated to a safe distance. It was of course now too +late to hunt up the three genuine buffaloes of this ill-assorted group. + +In fact our main necessity was to get through the river jungle before +the afterglow had faded from the sky, leaving us in pitch darkness. +I sent Memba Sasa across to pick up the effects we had left on the +opposite ridge, while I myself struck directly across the flat toward +camp. + +I had plunged ahead thus, for two or three hundred yards, when I was +brought up short by the violent snort of a rhinoceros just off the +starboard bow. He was very close, but I was unable to locate him in the +dusk. A cautious retreat and change of course cleared me from him, and +I was about to start on again full speed when once more I was halted by +another rhinoceros, this time dead ahead. Attempting to back away from +him, I aroused another in my rear; and as though this were not enough a +fourth opened up to the left. + +It was absolutely impossible to see anything ten yards away unless it +happened to be silhouetted against the sky. I backed cautiously toward +a little bush, with a vague idea of having something to dodge around. +As the old hunter said when, unarmed, he met the bear, "Anything, even +a newspaper, would have come handy." To my great joy I backed against +a conical ant hill four or five feet high. This I ascended and began +anti-rhino demonstrations. I had no time to fool with rhinos, anyway. I +wanted to get through that jungle before the leopards left their family +circles. I hurled clods of earth and opprobrious shouts and epithets +in the four directions of my four obstreperous friends, and I thought +I counted four reluctant departures. Then, with considerable doubt, I +descended from my ant hill and hurried down the slope, stumbling +over grass hummocks, colliding with bushes, tangling with vines, but +progressing in a gratifyingly rhinoless condition. Five minutes cautious +but rapid feeling my way brought me through the jungle. Shortly after I +raised the campfires; and so got home. + +The next two days were repetitions, with slight variation, of this +experience, minus the rhinos! Starting from camp before daylight we were +only in time to see the herd-always aggravatingly on the other side of +the cover, no matter which side we selected for our approach, slowly +grazing into the dense jungle. And always they emerged so late and so +far away that our very best efforts failed to get us near them before +dark. The margin always so narrow, however, that our hopes were alive. + +On the fourth day, which must be our last in Longeetoto, we found that +the herd had shifted to fresh cover three miles along the base of the +mountains. We had no faith in those buffaloes, but about half-past three +we sallied forth dutifully and took position on a hill overlooking the +new hiding place. This consisted of a wide grove of forest trees varied +by occasional open glades and many dense thickets. So eager were we to +win what had by now developed into a contest that I refused to shoot a +lioness with a three-quarters-grown cub that appeared within easy shot +from some reeds below us. + +Time passed as usual until nearly sunset. Then through an opening into +one of the small glades we caught sight of the herd travelling slowly +but steadily from right to left. The glimpse was only momentary, but it +was sufficient to indicate the direction from which we might expect them +to emerge. Therefore we ran at top speed down from our own hill, tore +through the jungle at its foot, and hastily, but with more caution, +mounted the opposite slope through the scattered groves and high grass. +We could hear occasionally indications of the buffaloes' slow advance, +and we wanted to gain a good ambuscade above them before they emerged. +We found it in the shape of a small conical hillock perched on the +side hill itself, and covered with long grass. It commanded open vistas +through the scattered trees in all directions. And the thicket itself +ended not fifty yards away. No buffalo could possibly come out without +our seeing him; and we had a good half hour of clear daylight before us. +It really seemed that luck had changed at last. + +We settled ourselves, unlimbered for action, and got our breath. The +buffaloes came nearer and nearer. At length, through a tiny opening a +hundred yards away, we could catch momentary glimpses of their great +black bodies. I thrust forward the safety catch and waited. Finally +a half dozen of the huge beasts were feeding not six feet inside the +circle of brush, and only thirty-odd yards from where we lay. + +And they came no farther! I never passed a more heart-breaking half hour +of suspense than that in which little by little the daylight and our +hopes faded, while those confounded buffaloes moved slowly out to the +very edge of the thicket, turned, and moved as slowly back again. At +times they came actually into view. We could see their sleek black +bodies rolling lazily into sight and back again, like seals on the +surface of water, but never could we make out more than that. I could +have had a dozen good shots, but I could not even guess what I would be +shooting at. And the daylight drained away and the minutes ticked by! + +Finally, as I could see no end to this performance save that to which we +had been so sickeningly accustomed in the last four days, I motioned to +Memba Sasa, and together we glided like shadows into the thicket. + +There it was already dusk. We sneaked breathlessly through the small +openings, desperately in a hurry, almost painfully on the alert. In the +dark shadow sixty yards ahead stood a half dozen monstrous bodies all +facing our way. They suspected the presence of something unusual, but in +the darkness and the stillness they could neither identify it nor locate +it exactly. I dropped on one knee and snatched my prism glasses to my +eyes. The magnification enabled me to see partially into the shadows. +Every one of the group carried the sharply inturned points to the horns: +they were all cows! + +An instant after I had made out this fact, they stampeded across our +face. The whole band thundered and crashed away. + +Desperately we sprang after them, our guns atrail, our bodies stooped +low to keep down in the shadow of the earth. And suddenly, without the +slightest warning we plumped around a bush square on top of the entire +herd. It had stopped and was staring back in our direction. I could see +nothing but the wild toss of a hundred pair of horns silhouetted against +such of the irregular saffron afterglow as had not been blocked off by +the twigs and branches of the thicket. All below was indistinguishable +blackness. + +They stood in a long compact semicircular line thirty yards away, quite +still, evidently staring intently into the dusk to find out what had +alarmed them. At any moment they were likely to make another rush; +and if they did so in the direction they were facing, they would most +certainly run over us and trample us down. + +Remembering the dusk I thought it likely that the unexpected vivid flash +of the gun might turn them off before they got started. Therefore I +raised the big double Holland, aimed below the line of heads, and was +just about to pull trigger when my eye caught the silhouette of a pair +of horns whose tips spread out instead of turning in. This was a bull, +and I immediately shifted the gun in his direction. At the heavy double +report, the herd broke wildly to right and left and thundered away. I +confess I was quite relieved. + +A low moaning bellow told us that our bull was down. The last few days' +experience at being out late had taught us wisdom so Memba Sasa had +brought a lantern. By the light of this, we discovered our bull down, +and all but dead. To make sure, I put a Winchester bullet into his +backbone. + +We felt ourselves legitimately open to congratulations, for we had +killed this bull from a practically nocturnal herd, in the face of +considerable danger and more than considerable difficulty. Therefore we +shook hands and made appropriate remarks to each other, lacking anybody +to make them for us. + +By now it was pitch dark in the thicket, and just about so outside. We +had to do a little planning. I took the Holland gun, gave Memba Sasa the +Winchester, and started him for camp after help. As he carried off the +lantern, it was now up to me to make a fire and to make it quickly. + +For the past hour a fine drizzle had been falling; and the whole country +was wet from previous rains. I hastily dragged in all the dead wood I +could find near, collected what ought to be good kindling, and started +in to light a fire. Now, although I am no Boy Scout, I have lit several +fires in my time. But never when I was at the same time in such a +desperate need and hurry; and in possession of such poor materials. The +harder I worked, the worse things sputtered and smouldered. Probably +the relief from the long tension of the buffalo hunt had something to +do with my general piffling inefficiency. If I had taken time to do a +proper job once instead of a halfway job a dozen times, as I should have +done and usually would have done, I would have had a fire in no time. +I imagine I was somewhat scared. The lioness and her hulking cub had +smelled the buffalo and were prowling around. I could hear them purring +and uttering their hollow grunts. However, at last the flame held. I +fed it sparingly, lit a pipe, placed the Holland gun next my hand, and +resigned myself to waiting. For two hours this was not so bad. I smoked, +and rested up, and dried out before my little fire. Then my fuel began +to run low. I arose and tore down all the remaining dead limbs within +the circle of my firelight. These were not many, so I stepped out into +the darkness for more. Immediately I was warned back by a deep growl! + +The next hour was not one of such solid comfort. I began to get +parsimonious about my supply of firewood, trying to use it in such a +manner as to keep up an adequate blaze, and at the same time to make it +last until Memba Sasa should return with the men. I did it, though I got +down to charred ends before I was through. The old lioness hung around +within a hundred yards or so below, and the buffalo herd, returning, +filed by above, pausing to stamp and snort at the fire. Finally, about +nine o'clock, I made out two lanterns bobbing up to me through the +trees. + +The last incident to be selected from many experiences with buffaloes +took place in quite an unvisited district over the mountains from the +Loieta Plains. For nearly two months we had ranged far in this lovely +upland country of groves and valleys and wide grass bottoms between +hills, hunting for greater kudu. One day we all set out from camp to +sweep the base of a range of low mountains in search of a good specimen +of Newman's hartebeeste, or anything else especially desirable that +might happen along. The gentle slope from the mountains was of grass cut +by numerous small ravines grown with low brush. This brush was so scanty +as to afford but indifferent cover for anything larger than one of the +small grass antelopes. All the ravines led down a mile or so to a deeper +main watercourse paralleling the mountains. Some water stood in the +pools here; and the cover was a little more dense, but consisted at best +of but a "stringer" no wider than a city street. Flanking the stringer +were scattered high bushes for a few yards; and then the open country. +Altogether as unlikely a place for the shade-loving buffalo as could be +imagined. + +We collected our Newmanii after rather a long hunt; and just at noon, +when the heat of the day began to come on, we wandered down to the water +for lunch. Here we found a good clear pool and drank. The boys began to +make themselves comfortable by the water's edge; C. went to superintend +the disposal of Billy's mule. Billy had sat down beneath the shade of +the most hospitable of the bushes a hundred feet or so away, and was +taking off her veil and gloves. I was carrying to her the lunch box. +When I was about halfway from where the boys were drinking at the +stream's edge to where she sat, a buffalo bull thrust his head from the +bushes just the other side of her. His head was thrust up and forward, +as he reached after some of the higher tender leaves on the bushes. So +close was he that I could see plainly the drops glistening on his moist +black nose. As for Billy, peacefully unwinding her long veil, she seemed +fairly under the beast. + +I had no weapon, and any moment might bring some word or some noise that +would catch the animal's attention. Fortunately, for the moment, every +one, relaxed in the first reaction after the long morning, was keeping +silence. If the buffalo should look down, he could not fail to see +Billy; and if he saw her, he would indubitably kill her. + +As has been explained, snapping the fingers does not seem to reach the +attention of wild animals. Therefore I snapped mine as vigorously as I +knew how. Billy heard, looked toward me, turned in the direction of my +gaze, and slowly sank prone against the ground. Some of the boys heard +me also, and I could see the heads of all of them popping up in interest +from the banks of the stream. My cautious but very frantic signals to +lie low were understood: the heads dropped back. Mavrouki, a rifle +in each hand, came worming his way toward me through the grass with +incredible quickness and agility. A moment later he thrust the 405 +Winchester into my hand. + +This weapon, powerful and accurate as it is, the best of the lot for +lions, was altogether too small for the tremendous brute before +me. However, the Holland was in camp; and I was very glad in the +circumstances to get this. The buffalo had browsed slowly forward into +the clear, and was now taking the top off a small bush, and facing half +away from us. It seemed to me quite the largest buffalo I had ever seen, +though I should have been willing to have acknowledged at that moment +that the circumstances had something to do with the estimate. However, +later we found that the impression was correct. He was verily a giant of +his kind. His height at the shoulder was five feet ten inches; and +his build was even chunkier than the usual solid robust pattern of +buffaloes. For example, his neck, just back of the horns, was two feet +eight inches thick! He weighed not far from three thousand pounds. + +Once the rifle was in my hands I lost the feeling of utter helplessness, +and began to plan the best way out of the situation. As yet the beast +was totally unconscious of our presence; but that could not continue +long. There were too many men about. A chance current of air from any +one of a half dozen directions could not fail to give him the scent. +Then there would be lively doings. It was exceedingly desirable to +deliver the first careful blow of the engagement while he was unaware. +On the other hand, his present attitude-half away from me-was not +favourable; nor, in my exposed position dared I move to a better place. +There seemed nothing better than to wait; so wait we did. Mavrouki +crouched close at my elbow, showing not the faintest indication of a +desire to be anywhere but there. + +The buffalo browsed for a minute or so; then swung slowly broadside on. +So massive and low were the bosses of his horns that the brain shot +was impossible. Therefore I aimed low in the shoulder. The shock of the +bullet actually knocked that great beast off his feet! My respect for +the hitting power of the 405 went up several notches. The only +trouble was that he rebounded like a rubber ball. Without an instant's +hesitation I gave him another in the same place. This brought him to +his knees for an instant; but he was immediately afoot again. Billy +had, with great good sense and courage, continued to lie absolutely flat +within a few yards of the beast, Mavrouki and I had kept low, and C. and +the men were out of sight. The buffalo therefore had seen none of his +antagonists. He charged at a guess, and guessed wrong. As he went by +I fired at his head, and, as we found out afterward, broke his jaw. A +moment later C.'s great elephant gun roared from somewhere behind me as +he fired by a glimpse through the brush at the charging animal. It was +an excellent snapshot, and landed back of the ribs. + +When the buffalo broke through the screen of brush I dashed after him, +for I thought our only chance of avoiding danger lay in keeping close +track of where that buffalo went. On the other side the bushes I found a +little grassy opening, and then a small but dense thicket into which the +animal had plunged. To my left, C. was running up, followed closely by +Billy, who, with her usual good sense, had figured out the safest place +to be immediately back of the guns. We came together at the thicket's +edge. + +The animal's movements could be plainly followed by the sound of his +crashing. We heard him dash away some distance, pause, circle a bit to +the right, and then come rushing back in our direction. Stooping low +we peered into the darkness of the thicket. Suddenly we saw him, not +a dozen yards away. He was still afoot, but very slow. I dropped the +magazine of five shots into him as fast as I could work the lever. We +later found all the bullet-holes in a spot as big as the palm of your +hand. These successive heavy blows delivered all in the same place were +too much for even his tremendous vitality; and slowly he sank on his +side. + + + + + +XXVI. JUJA + +Most people have heard of Juja, the modern dwelling in the heart of an +African wilderness, belonging to our own countryman, Mr. W. N. +McMillan. If most people are as I was before I saw the place, they have +considerable curiosity and no knowledge of what it is and how it looks. + +We came to Juja at the end of a wide circle that had lasted three +months, and was now bringing us back again toward our starting point. +For five days we had been camped on top a high bluff at the junction of +two rivers. When we moved we dropped down the bluff, crossed one river, +and, after some searching, found our way up the other bluff. There we +were on a vast plain bounded by mountains thirty miles away. A large +white and unexpected sign told us we were on Juja Farm, and warned us +that we should be careful of our fires in the long grass. + +For an hour we plodded slowly along. Herds of zebra and hartebeeste drew +aside before us, dark heavy wildebeeste-the gnu-stood in groups at a +safe distance their heads low, looking exactly like our vanished bison; +ghostlike bands of Thompson's gazelles glided away with their smooth +regular motion. On the vast and treeless plains single small objects +standing above the general uniformity took an exaggerated value; so +that, before it emerged from the swirling heat mirage, a solitary tree +might easily be mistaken for a group of buildings or a grove. Finally, +however, we raised above the horizon a dark straight clump of trees. It +danced in the mirage, and blurred and changed form, but it persisted. +A strange patch of white kept appearing and disappearing again. This +resolved itself into the side of a building. A spider-legged water tower +appeared above the trees. + +Gradually we drew up on these. A bit later we swung to the right around +a close wire fence ten feet high, passed through a gate, and rode down +a long slanting avenue of young trees. Between the trees were century +plants and flowers, and a clipped border ran before them. The avenue +ended before a low white bungalow, with shady verandas all about it, and +vines. A formal flower garden lay immediately about it, and a very tall +flag pole had been planted in front. A hundred feet away the garden +dropped off steep to one of the deep river canyons. + +Two white-robed Somalis appeared on the veranda to inform us that +McMillan was off on safari. Our own boys approaching at this moment, we +thereupon led them past the house, down another long avenue of trees and +flowers, out into an open space with many buildings at its edges, past +extensive stables, and through another gate to the open plains once +more. Here we made camp. After lunch we went back to explore. + +Juja is situated on the top of a high bluff overlooking a river. In +all directions are tremendous grass plains. Donya Sabuk-the Mountain of +Buffaloes-is the only landmark nearer than the dim mountains beyond +the edge of the world, and that is a day's journey away. A rectangle of +possibly forty acres has been enclosed on three sides by animal-proof +wire fence. The fourth side is the edge of the bluff. Within this +enclosure have been planted many trees, now of good size; a pretty +garden with abundance of flowers, ornamental shrubs, a sundial, and +lawns. In the river bottom land below the bluff is a very extensive +vegetable and fruit garden, with cornfields, and experimental plantings +of rubber, and the like. For the use of the people of Juja here are +raised a great variety and abundance of vegetables, fruits, and grains. + +Juja House, as has been said, stands back a hundred feet from a bend +in the bluffs that permits a view straight up the river valley. It +is surrounded by gardens and trees, and occupies all one end of the +enclosed rectangle. Farther down and perched on the edge of a bluff, +are several pretty little bungalows for the accommodation of the +superintendent and his family, for the bachelors' mess, for the farm +offices and dispensary, and for the dairy room, the ice-plant and the +post-office and telegraph station. Back of and inland from this row on +the edge of the cliff, and scattered widely in open space, are a large +store stocked with everything on earth, the Somali quarters of low +whitewashed buildings, the cattle corrals, the stables, wild animal +cages, granaries, blacksmith and carpenter shops, wagon sheds and the +like. Outside the enclosure, and a half mile away, are the conical grass +huts that make up the native village. Below the cliff is a concrete dam, +an electric light plant, a pumping plant and a few details of the sort. + +Such is a relief map of Juja proper. Four miles away, and on another +river, is Long Juja, a strictly utilitarian affair where grow ostriches, +cattle, sheep, and various irrigated things in the bottom land. All +the rest of the farm, or estate, or whatever one would call it, is open +plain, with here and there a river bottom, or a trifle of brush cover. +But never enough to constitute more than an isolated and lonesome patch. + +Before leaving London we had received from McMillan earnest assurances +that he kept open house, and that we must take advantage of his +hospitality should we happen his way. Therefore when one of his +white-robed Somalis approached us to inquire respectfully as to what +we wanted for dinner, we yielded weakly to the temptation and told him. +Then we marched us boldly to the house and took possession. + +All around the house ran a veranda, shaded bamboo curtains and vines, +furnished with the luxurious teakwood chairs of the tropics of which you +can so extend the arms as to form two comfortable and elevated rests for +your feet. Horns of various animals ornamented the walls. A megaphone +and a huge terrestrial telescope on a tripod stood in one corner. +Through the latter one could examine at favourable times the herds of +game on the plains. + +And inside-mind you, we were fresh from three months in the +wilderness-we found rugs, pictures, wall paper, a pianola, many books, +baths, beautiful white bedrooms with snowy mosquito curtains, electric +lights, running water, and above all an atmosphere of homelike comfort. +We fell into easy chairs, and seized books and magazines. The Somalis +brought us trays with iced and fizzy drinks in thin glasses. When +the time came we crossed the veranda in the rear to enter a spacious +separate dining-room. The table was white with napery, glittering with +silver and glass, bright with flowers. We ate leisurely of a well-served +course dinner, ending with black coffee, shelled nuts, and candied +fruit. Replete and satisfied we strolled back across the veranda to the +main house. F. raised his hand. + +"Hark!" he admonished us. + +We held still. From the velvet darkness came the hurried petulant +barking of zebra; three hyenas howled. + + + + + +XXVII. A VISIT AT JUJA + +Next day we left all this; and continued our march. About a month later, +however, we encountered McMillan himself in Nairobi. I was just out from +a very hard trip to the coast-Billy not with me-and wanted nothing so +much as a few days' rest. McMillan's cordiality was not to be denied, +however, so the very next day found us tucking ourselves into a +buckboard behind four white Abyssinian mules. McMillan, some Somalis +and Captain Duirs came along in another similar rig. Our driver was a +Hottentot half-caste from South Africa. He had a flat face, a yellow +skin, a quiet manner, and a competent hand. His name was Michael. At his +feet crouched a small Kikuyu savage, in blanket ear ornaments and all +the fixings, armed with a long lashed whip and raucous voice. At +any given moment he was likely to hop out over the moving wheel, run +forward, bat the off leading mule, and hop back again, all with the +most extraordinary agility. He likewise hurled what sounded like very +opprobrious epithets at such natives as did not get out the way quickly +enough to suit him. The expression of his face, which was that of a +person steeped in woe, never changed. + +We rattled out of Nairobi at a great pace, and swung into the Fort Hall +Road. This famous thoroughfare, one of the three or four made roads in +all East Africa, is about sixty miles long. It is a strategic necessity +but is used by thousands of natives on their way to see the sights of +the great metropolis. As during the season there is no water for much of +the distance, a great many pay for their curiosity with their lives. The +road skirts the base of the hills, winding in and out of shallow canyons +and about the edges of rounded hills. To the right one can see far out +across the Athi Plains. + +We met an almost unbroken succession of people. There were long pack +trains of women, quite cheerful, bent over under the weight of firewood +or vegetables, many with babies tucked away in the folds of their +garments; mincing dandified warriors with poodle-dog hair, skewers in +their ears, their jewelery brought to a high polish a fatuous expression +of self-satisfaction on their faces, carrying each a section of +sugarcane which they now used as a staff but would later devour for +lunch; bearers, under convoy of straight soldierly red-sashed Sudanese, +transporting Government goods; wild-eyed staring shenzis from the +forest, with matted hair and goatskin garments, looking ready to bolt +aside at the slightest alarm; coveys of marvellous and giggling damsels, +their fine-grained skin anointed and shining with red oil, strung with +beads and shells, very coquettish and sure of their feminine charm; +naked small boys marching solemnly like their elders; camel trains from +far-off Abyssinia or Somaliland under convoy of white-clad turbaned +grave men of beautiful features; donkey safaris in charge of dirty +degenerate looking East Indians carrying trade goods to some distant +post-all these and many more, going one way or the other, drew one side, +at the sight of our white faces, to let us pass. + +About two o'clock we suddenly turned off from the road, apparently quite +at random, down the long grassy interminable incline that dipped slowly +down and slowly up again over great distance to form the Athi Plains. +Along the road, with its endless swarm of humanity, we had seen no game, +but after a half mile it began to appear. We encountered herds of zebra, +kongoni, wildebeeste, and "Tommies" standing about or grazing, sometimes +almost within range from the moving buckboard. After a time we made out +the trees and water tower of Juja ahead; and by four o'clock had turned +into the avenue of trees. Our approach had been seen. Tea was ready, and +a great and hospitable table of bottles, ice, and siphons. + +The next morning we inspected the stables, built of stone in a hollow +square, like a fort, with box stalls opening directly into the courtyard +and screened carefully against the deadly flies. The horses, beautiful +creatures, were led forth each by his proud and anxious syce. We tried +them all, and selected our mounts for the time of our stay. The syces +were small black men, lean and well formed, accustomed to running afoot +wherever their charges went, at walk, lope or gallop. Thus in a day they +covered incredible distances over all sorts of country; but were always +at hand to seize the bridle reins when the master wished to dismount. +Like the rickshaw runners in Nairobi, they wore their hair clipped close +around their bullet heads and seemed to have developed into a small +compact hard type of their own. They ate and slept with their horses. + +Just outside the courtyard of the stables a little barred window had +been cut through. Near this were congregated a number of Kikuyu savages +wrapped in their blankets, receiving each in turn a portion of cracked +corn from a dusty white man behind the bars. They were a solemn, +unsmiling, strange type of savage, and they performed all the manual +work within the enclosure, squatting on their heels and pulling +methodically but slowly at the weeds, digging with their pangas, +carrying loads: to and fro, or solemnly pushing a lawn mower, blankets +wrapped shamelessly about their necks. They were harried about by a +red-faced beefy English gardener with a marvellous vocabulary of +several native languages and a short hippo-hide whip. He talked himself +absolutely purple in the face without, as far as my observation went, +penetrating an inch below the surface. The Kikuyus went right on doing +what they were already doing in exactly the same manner. Probably the +purple Englishman was satisfied with that, but I am sure apoplexy of +either the heat or thundering variety has him by now. + +Before the store building squatted another group of savages. Perhaps +in time one of the lot expected to buy something; or possibly they just +sat. Nobody but a storekeeper would ever have time to find out. Such +is the native way. The storekeeper in this case was named John. Besides +being storekeeper, he had charge of the issuing of all the house +supplies, and those for the white men's mess; he must do all the +worrying about the upper class natives; he must occasionally kill a +buck for the meat supply; and he must be prepared to take out any stray +tenderfeet that happen along during McMillan's absence, and persuade +them that they are mighty hunters. His domain was a fascinating place, +for it contained everything from pianola parts to patent washstands. The +next best equipped place of the kind I know of is the property room of a +moving picture company. + +We went to mail a letter, and found the postmaster to be a +gentle-voiced, polite little Hindu, who greeted us smilingly, +and attempted to conceal a work of art. We insisted; whereupon he +deprecatingly drew forth a copy of a newspaper cartoon having to do with +Colonel Roosevelt's visit. It was copied with mathematical exactness, +and highly coloured in a manner to throw into profound melancholy +the chauffeur of a coloured supplement press. We admired and praised; +whereupon, still shyly, he produced more, and yet again more copies +of the same cartoon. When we left, he was reseating himself to the +painstaking valueless labour with which he filled his days. Three times +a week such mail as Juja gets comes in via native runner. We saw the +latter, a splendid figure, almost naked, loping easily, his little +bundle held before him. + +Down past the office and dispensary we strolled, by the comfortable, +airy, white man's clubhouse. The headman of the native population passed +us with a dignified salute; a fine upstanding deep-chested man, with a +lofty air of fierce pride. He and his handful of soldiers alone of the +natives, except the Somalis and syces, dwelt within the compound in +a group of huts near the gate. There when off duty they might be seen +polishing their arms, or chatting with their women. The latter were +ladies of leisure, with wonderful chignons, much jewelery, and patterned +Mericani wrapped gracefully about their pretty figures. + +By the time we had seen all these things it was noon. We ate lunch. The +various members of the party decided to do various things. I elected to +go out with McMillan while he killed a wildebeeste, and I am very glad I +did. It was a most astonishing performance. + +You must imagine us driving out the gate in a buckboard behind four +small but lively white Abyssinian mules. In the front seat were Michael, +the Hottentot driver, and McMillan's Somali gunbearer. In the rear seat +were McMillan and myself, while a small black syce perched precariously +behind. Our rifles rested in a sling before us. So we jogged out on the +road to Long Juju, examining with a critical eye the herds of game to +right and left of us. The latter examined us, apparently, with an eye as +critical. Finally, in a herd of zebra, we espied a lone wildebeeste. + +The wildebeeste is the Jekyll and Hyde of the animal kingdom. His +usual and familiar habit is that of a heavy, sluggish animal, like +our vanished bison. He stands solid and inert, his head down; he plods +slowly forward in single file, his horns swinging, each foot planted +deliberately. In short, he is the personification of dignity, solid +respectability, gravity of demeanour. But then all of a sudden, at any +small interruption, he becomes the giddiest of created beings. Up goes +his head and tail, he buck jumps, cavorts, gambols, kicks up his heels, +bounds stiff-legged, and generally performs like an irresponsible +infant. To see a whole herd at once of these grave and reverend +seigneurs suddenly blow up into such light-headed capers goes far to +destroy one's faith in the stability of institutions. + +Also the wildebeeste is not misnamed. He is a conservative, and he sees +no particular reason for allowing his curiosity to interfere with his +preconceived beliefs. The latter are distrustful. Therefore he and his +females and his young-I should say small-depart when one is yet far +away. I say small, because I do not believe that any wildebeeste is ever +young. They do not resemble calves, but are exact replicas of the big +ones, just as Niobe's daughters are in nothing childlike, but merely +smaller women. + +When we caught sight of this lone wildebeeste among the zebra, I +naturally expected that we would pull up the buckboard, descend, and +approach to within some sort of long range. Then we would open fire. +Barring luck, the wildebeeste would thereupon depart "wilder and +beestier than ever," as John McCutcheon has it. Not at all! Michael, the +Hottentot, turned the buckboard off the road, headed toward the distant +quarry, and charged at full speed! Over stones we went that sent us feet +into the air, down and out of shallow gullies that seemed as though they +would jerk the pole from the vehicle with a grand rattlety-bang, every +one hanging on for his life. I was entirely occupied with the state of +my spinal column and the retention of my teeth, but McMillan must have +been keeping his eye on the game. One peculiarity of the wildebeeste +is that he cannot see behind him, and another is that he is curious. It +would not require a very large bump of curiosity, however, to cause any +animal to wonder what all the row was about. There could be no doubt +that this animal would sooner or later stop for an instant to look for +the purpose of seeing what was up in jungleland; and just before +doing so he would, for a few steps, slow down from a gallop to a trot. +McMillan was watching for this symptom. + +"Now!" he yelled, when he saw it. + +Instantly Michael threw his weight into the right rein and against the +brake. We swerved so violently to the right and stopped so suddenly +that I nearly landed on the broad prairies. The manoeuvre fetched us up +broadside. The small black syce-and heaven knows how HE had managed to +hang on-darted to the heads of the leading mules. At the same moment the +wildebeeste turned, and stopped; but even before he had swung his head, +McMillan had fired. It was extraordinarily good, quick work, the way he +picked up the long range from the spurts of dust where the bullets hit. +At the third or fourth shots he landed one. Immediately the beast +was off again at a tearing run pursued by a rapid fusillade from the +remaining shots. Then with a violent jerk and a wild yell we were off +again. + +This time, since the animal was wounded, he made for rougher country. +And everywhere that wildebeeste went we too were sure to go. We hit +or shaved boulders that ought to have smashed a wheel, we tore through +thick brush regardless. Twice we charged unhesitatingly over apparent +precipices. I do not know the name of the manufacturer of the buckboard. +If I did, I should certainly recommend it here. Twice more we swerved to +our broadside and cut loose the port batteries. Once more McMillan +hit. Then, on the fourth "run," we gained perceptibly. The beast was +weakening. When he came to a stumbling halt we were not over a hundred +yards from him, and McMillan easily brought him down. We had chased him +four or five miles, and McMillan had fired nineteen shots, of which two +had hit. The rifle practice throughout had been remarkably good, and a +treat to watch. Personally, besides the fun of attending the show, I got +a mighty good afternoon's exercise. + +We loaded the game aboard and jogged slowly back to the house, for the +mules were pretty tired. We found a neighbour, Mr. Heatley of Kamiti +Ranch who had "dropped down" twelve miles to see us. On account of a +theft McMillan now had all the Somalis assembled for interrogation on +the side verandas. The interrogation did not amount to much, but while +it was going on the Sudanese headman and his askaris were quietly +searching the boys' quarters. After a time they appeared. The suspected +men had concealed nothing, but the searchers brought with them three of +McMillan's shirts which they had found among the effects of another, and +entirely unsuspected, boy named Abadie. + +"How is this, Abadie?" demanded McMillan sternly. + +Abadie hesitated. Then he evidently reflected that there is slight use +in having a deity unless one makes use of him. + +"Bwana," said he with an engaging air of belief and candour, "God must +have put them there!" + +That evening we planned a "general day" for the morrow. We took boys and +buckboards and saddle-horses, beaters, shotguns, rifles, and revolvers, +and we sallied forth for a grand and joyous time. The day from a +sporting standpoint was entirely successful, the bag consisting of +two waterbuck, a zebra, a big wart-hog, six hares, and six grouse. +Personally I was a little hazy and uncertain. By evening the fever had +me, and though I stayed at Juja for six days longer, it was as a patient +to McMillan's unfailing kindness rather than as a participant in the +life of the farm. + + + + + +XXVIII. A RESIDENCE AT JUJA + +A short time later, at about middle of the rainy season, McMillan left +for a little fishing off Catalina Island. The latter is some fourteen +thousand miles of travel from Juja. Before leaving on this flying trip, +McMillan made us a gorgeous offer. + +"If," said he, "you want to go it alone, you can go out and use Juja as +long as you please." + +This offer, or, rather, a portion of it, you may be sure, we accepted +promptly. McMillan wanted in addition to leave us his servants; but to +this we would not agree. Memba Sasa and Mahomet were, of course, members +of our permanent staff. In addition to them we picked up another house +boy, named Leyeye. He was a Masai. These proud and aristocratic savages +rarely condescend to take service of any sort except as herders; but +when they do they prove to be unusually efficient and intelligent. We +had also a Somali cook, and six ordinary bearers to do general labour. +This small safari we started off afoot for Juja. The whole lot cost us +about what we would pay one Chinaman on the Pacific Coast. + +Next day we ourselves drove out in the mule buckboard. The rains were +on, and the road was very muddy. After the vital tropical fashion the +grass was springing tall in the natural meadows and on the plains and +the brief-lived white lilies and an abundance of ground flowers washed +the slopes with colour. Beneath the grass covering, the entire surface +of the ground was an inch or so deep in water. This was always most +surprising, for, apparently, the whole country should have been high +and dry. Certainly its level was that of a plateau rather than a bottom +land; so that one seemed always to be travelling at an elevation. +Nevertheless walking or riding we were continually splashing, and the +only dry going outside the occasional rare "islands" of the slight +undulations we found near the very edge of the bluffs above the rivers. +There the drainage seemed sufficient to carry off the excess. Elsewhere +the hardpan or bedrock must have been exceptionally level and near the +top of the ground. + +Nothing nor nobody seemed to mind this much. The game splashed around +merrily, cropping at the tall grass; the natives slopped indifferently, +and we ourselves soon became so accustomed to two or three inches of +water and wet feet that after the first two days we never gave those +phenomena a thought. + +The world above at this season of the year was magnificent. The African +heavens are always widely spacious, but now they seemed to have blown +even vaster than usual. In the sweep of the vision four or five heavy +black rainstorms would be trailing their skirts across an infinitely +remote prospect; between them white piled scud clouds and cumuli sailed +like ships; and from them reflected so brilliant a sunlight and behind +all showed so dazzling a blue sky that the general impression was of +a fine day. The rainstorms' gray veils slanted; tremendous patches of +shadow lay becalmed on the plains; bright sunshine poured abundantly its +warmth and yellow light. + +So brilliant with both direct and reflected light and the values of +contrast were the heavens, that when one happened to stand within one of +the great shadows it became extraordinarily difficult to make out game +on the plains. The pupils contracted to the brilliancy overhead. Often +too, near sunset, the atmosphere would become suffused with a lurid +saffron light that made everything unreal and ghastly. At such times +the game seemed puzzled by the unusual aspect of things. The zebra +especially would bark and stamp and stand their ground, and even come +nearer out of sheer curiosity. I have thus been within fifty yards of +them, right out in the open. At such times it was as though the sky, +instead of rounding over in the usual shape, had been thrust up at the +western horizon to the same incredible height as the zenith. In the +space thus created were piled great clouds through which slanted broad +bands of yellow light on a diminished world. + +It rained with great suddenness on our devoted heads, and with a curious +effect of metamorphoslng the entire universe. One moment all was clear +and smiling, with the trifling exception of distant rain squalls that +amounted to nothing in the general scheme. Then the horizon turned +black, and with incredible swiftness the dark clouds materialized out of +nothing, rolled high to the zenith like a wave, blotted out every last +vestige of brightness. A heavy oppressive still darkness breathed over +the earth. Then through the silence came a faraway soft drumming sound, +barely to be heard. As we bent our ears to catch this it grew louder and +louder, approaching at breakneck speed like a troop of horses. It became +a roar fairly terrifying in its mercilessly continued crescendo. At last +the deluge of rain burst actually as a relief. + +And what a deluge! Facing it we found difficulty in breathing. In six +seconds every stitch we wore was soaked through, and only the notebook, +tobacco, and matches bestowed craftily in the crown of the cork helmet +escaped. The visible world was dark and contracted. It seemed that +nothing but rain could anywhere exist; as though this storm must fill +all space to the horizon and beyond. Then it swept on and we found +ourselves steaming in bright sunlight. The dry flat prairie (if this +was the first shower for some time) had suddenly become a lake from the +surface of which projected bushes and clumps of grass. Every game trail +had become the water course of a swiftly running brook. + +But most pleasant were the evenings at Juja, when, safe indoors, we sat +and listened to the charge of the storm's wild horsemen, and the thunder +of its drumming on the tin roof. The onslaughts were as fierce and +abrupt as those of Cossacks, and swept by as suddenly. The roar died +away in the distance, and we could then hear the steady musical dripping +of waters. + +Pleasant it was also to walk out from Juja in almost any direction. The +compound, and the buildings and trees within it, soon dwindled in the +distances of the great flat plain. Herds of game were always in +sight, grazing, lying down, staring in our direction. The animals +were incredibly numerous. Some days they were fairly tame, and others +exceedingly wild, without any rhyme or reason. This shyness or the +reverse seemed not to be individual to one herd; but to be practically +universal. On a "wild day" everything was wild from the Lone Tree +to Long Juju. It would be manifestly absurd to guess at the reason. +Possibly the cause might be atmospheric or electrical; possibly days of +nervousness might follow nights of unusual activity by the lions; one +could invent a dozen possibilities. Perhaps the kongonis decided it. + +At Juja we got to know the kongonis even better than we had before. +They are comical, quizzical beasts, with long-nosed humorous faces, a +singularly awkward construction, a shambling gait; but with altruistic +dispositions and an ability to get over the ground at an extraordinary +speed. Every move is a joke; their expression is always one of grieved +but humorous astonishment. They quirk their heads sidewise or down and +stare at an intruder with the most comical air of skeptical wonder. +"Well, look who's here!" says the expression. + +"Pooh!" says the kongoni himself, after a good look, "pooh! pooh!" with +the most insulting inflection. + +He is very numerous and very alert. One or more of a grazing herd are +always perched as sentinels atop ant hills or similar small elevations. +On the slightest intimation of danger they give the alarm, whereupon the +herd makes off at once, gathering in all other miscellaneous game that +may be in the vicinity. They will go out of their way to do this, as +every African hunter knows. It immensely complicates matters; for the +sportsman must not only stalk his quarry, but he must stalk each and +every kongoni as well. Once, in another part of the country, C. and I +saw a kongoni leave a band of its own species far down to our right, +gallop toward us and across our front, pick up a herd of zebra we were +trying to approach and make off with them to safety. We cursed that +kongoni, but we admired him, for he deliberately ran out of safety into +danger for the purpose of warning those zebra. So seriously do they take +their job as policemen of the plains that it is very common for a lazy +single animal of another species to graze in a herd of kongonis simply +for the sake of protection. Wildebeeste are much given to this. + +The kongoni progresses by a series of long high bounds. While in +midair he half tucks up his feet, which gives him the appearance of an +automatic toy. This gait looks deliberate, but is really quite fast, as +the mounted sportsman discovers when he enters upon a vain pursuit. If +the horse is an especially good one, so that the kongoni feels himself +a trifle closely pressed, the latter stops bouncing and runs. Then he +simply fades away into the distance. + +These beasts are also given to chasing each other all over the +landscape. When a gentleman kongoni conceives a dislike for another +gentleman kongoni, he makes no concealment of his emotions, but marches +up and prods him in the ribs. The ensuing battle is usually fought +out very stubbornly with much feinting, parrying, clashing of the +lyre-shaped horns; and a good deal of crafty circling for a favourable +opening. As far as I was ever able to see not much real damage is +inflicted; though I could well imagine that only skilful fence prevented +unpleasant punctures in soft spots. After a time one or the other feels +himself weakening. He dashes strongly in, wheels while his antagonist is +braced, and makes off. The enemy pursues. Then, apparently, the chase +is on for the rest of the day. The victor is not content merely to drive +his rival out of the country; he wants to catch him. On that object he +is very intent; about as intent as the other fellow is of getting away. +I have seen two such beasts almost run over a dozen men who were making +no effort to keep out of sight. Long after honour is satisfied, indeed, +as it seems to me, long after the dictates of common decency would call +a halt that persistent and single-minded pursuer bounds solemnly and +conscientiously along in the wake of his disgusted rival. + +These and the zebra and wildebeeste were at Juja the most conspicuous +game animals. If they could not for the moment be seen from the veranda +of the house itself, a short walk to the gate was sufficient to reveal +many hundreds. Among them fed herds of the smaller Thompson's gazelle, +or "Tommies." So small were they that only their heads could be seen +above the tall grass as they ran. + +To me there was never-ending fascination in walking out over those +sloppy plains in search of adventure, and in the pleasure of watching +the beasts. Scarcely less fascination haunted a stroll down the river +canyons or along the tops of the bluffs above them. Here the country was +broken into rocky escarpments in which were caves; was clothed with low +and scattered brush; or was wooded in the bottom lands. Naturally an +entirely different set of animals dwelt here; and in addition one was +often treated to the romance of surprise. Herds of impalla haunted these +edges; graceful creatures, trim and pretty with wide horns and beautiful +glowing red coats. Sometimes they would venture out on the open plains, +in a very compact band, ready to break back for cover at the slightest +alarm; but generally fed inside the fringe of bushes. Once from the +bluff above I saw a beautiful herd of over a hundred pacing decorously +along the river bottom below me, single file, the oldest buck at the +head, and the miscellaneous small buck bringing up the rear after the +does. I shouted at them. Immediately the solemn procession broke. They +began to leap, springing straight up into the air as though from a +released spring, or diving forward and upward in long graceful bounds +like dolphins at sea. These leaps were incredible. Several even jumped +quite over the backs of others; and all without a semblance of effort. + +Along the fringe of the river, too, dwelt the lordly waterbuck, +magnificent and proud as the stags of Landseer; and the tiny steinbuck +and duiker, no bigger than jack-rabbits, but perfect little deer for +all that. The incredibly plebeian wart-hog rooted about; and down in +the bottom lands were leopards. I knocked one off a rock one day. In +the river itself dwelt hippopotamuses and crocodiles. One of the latter +dragged under a yearling calf just below the house itself, and while +we were there. Besides these were of course such affairs as hyenas and +jackals, and great numbers of small game: hares, ducks, three kinds of +grouse, guinea fowl, pigeons, quail, and jack snipe, not to speak of a +variety of plover. + +In the drier extents of dry grass atop the bluffs the dance birds were +especially numerous; each with his dance ring nicely trodden out, each +leaping and falling rhythmically for hours at a time. Toward sunset +great flights of sand grouse swarmed across the yellowing sky from some +distant feeding ground. + +Near Juja I had one of the three experiences that especially impressed +on my mind the abundance of African big game. I had stalked and wounded +a wildebeeste across the N'derogo River, and had followed him a mile +or so afoot, hoping to be able to put in a finishing shot. As sometimes +happens the animal rather gained strength as time went on; so I +signalled for my horse, mounted, and started out to run him down. After +a quarter mile we began to pick up the game herds. Those directly in +our course ran straight away; other herds on either side, seeing them +running, came across in a slant to join them. Inside of a half mile I +was driving before me literally thousands of head of game of several +varieties. The dust rose in a choking cloud that fairly obscured the +landscape, and the drumming of the hooves was like the stampeding of +cattle. It was a wonderful sight. + +On the plains of Juja, also, I had my one real African Adventure, +when, as in the Sunday Supplements, I Stared Death in the Face-also +everlasting disgrace and much derision. We were just returning to the +farm after an afternoon's walk, and as we approached I began to look +around for much needed meat. A herd of zebra stood in sight; so leaving +Memba Sasa I began to stalk them. My usual weapon for this sort of thing +was the Springfield, for which I carried extra cartridges in my belt. On +this occasion, however, I traded with Memba Sasa for the 405, simply for +the purpose of trying it out. At a few paces over three hundred yards +I landed on the zebra, but did not knock him down. Then I set out to +follow. It was a long job and took me far, for again and again he joined +other zebra, when, of course, I could not tell one from t'other. My only +expedient was to frighten the lot. There upon the uninjured ones would +distance the one that was hurt. The latter kept his eye on me. Whenever +I managed to get within reasonable distance, I put up the rear sight of +the 405, and let drive. I heard every shot hit, and after each hit was +more than a little astonished to see the zebra still on his feet, and +still able to wobble on.* The fifth shot emptied the rifle. As I had no +more cartridges for this arm, I approached to within sixty yards, and +stopped to wait either for him to fall, or for a very distant Memba Sasa +to come up with more cartridges. Then the zebra waked up. He put his +ears back and came straight in my direction. This rush I took for a +blind death flurry, and so dodged off to one side, thinking that he +would of course go by me. Not at all! He swung around on the circle too, +and made after me. I could see that his ears were back, eyes blazing, +and his teeth snapping with rage. It was a malicious charge, and, as +such, with due deliberation, I offer it to sportsman's annals. As I had +no more cartridges I ran away as fast as I could go. Although I made +rather better time than ever I had attained to before, it was evident +that the zebra would catch me; and as the brute could paw, bite, and +kick, I did not much care for the situation. Just as he had nearly +reached me, and as I was trying to figure on what kind of a fight I +could put up with a clubbed rifle barrel, he fell dead. To be killed by +a lion is at least a dignified death; but to be mauled by a zebra! + +I am sorry I did not try out this heavy-calibred rifle oftener at long +range. It was a marvellously effective weapon at close quarters; but I +have an idea-but only a tentative idea-that above three hundred yards +its velocity is so reduced by air resistance against the big blunt +bullet as greatly to impair its hitting powers. + + +We generally got back from our walks or rides just before dark to find +the house gleaming with lights, a hot bath ready, and a tray of good +wet drinks next the easy chairs. There, after changing our clothes, we +sipped and read the papers-two months off the press, but fresh arrived +for all that-until a white-robed, dignified figure appeared in the +doorway to inform us that dinner was ready. Our ways were civilized and +soft, then, until the morrow when once again, perhaps, we went forth +into the African wilderness. + +Juja is a place of startling contrasts-of naked savages clipping formal +hedges, of windows opening from a perfectly appointed brilliantly +lighted dining-room to a night whence float the lost wails of hyenas or +the deep grumbling of lions, of cushioned luxurious chairs in reach +of many books, but looking out on hills where the game herds feed, +of comfortable beds with fine linen and soft blankets where one lies +listening to the voices of an African night, or the weirder minor house +noises whose origin and nature no man could guess, of tennis courts and +summer houses, of lawns and hammocks, of sundials and clipped hedges +separated only by a few strands of woven wire from fields identical with +those in which roamed the cave men of the Pleistocene. But to Billy was +reserved the most ridiculous contrast of all. Her bedroom opened to a +veranda a few feet above a formal garden. This was a very formal garden, +with a sundial, gravelled walks, bordered flower beds, and clipped +border hedges. One night she heard a noise outside. Slipping on a warm +wrap and seizing her trusty revolver she stole out on the veranda to +investigate. She looked over the veranda rail. There just below her, +trampling the flower beds, tracking the gravel walks, endangering the +sundial, stood a hippopotamus! + +We had neighbours six or seven miles away. At times they came down to +spend the night and luxuriate in the comforts of civilization. They were +a Lady A., and her nephew, and a young Scotch acquaintance the nephew +had taken into partnership. They had built themselves circular houses +of papyrus reeds with conical thatched roofs and earth floors, had +purchased ox teams and gathered a dozen or so Kikuyus, and were engaged +in breaking a farm in the wilderness. The life was rough and hard, and +Lady A. and her nephew gently bred, but they seemed to be having quite +cheerfully the time of their lives. The game furnished them meat, as it +did all of us, and they hoped in time that their labours would make the +land valuable and productive. Fascinating as was the life, it was also +one of many deprivations. At Juja were a number of old copies of Life, +the pretty girls in which so fascinated the young men that we broke the +laws of propriety by presenting them, though they did not belong to us. +C., the nephew, was of the finest type of young Englishman, clean +cut, enthusiastic, good looking, with an air of engaging vitality +and optimism. His partner, of his own age, was an insufferable youth. +Brought up in some small Scottish valley, his outlook had never +widened. Because he wanted to buy four oxen at a cheaper price, he tried +desperately to abrogate quarantine regulations. If he had succeeded, he +would have made a few rupees, but would have introduced disease in his +neighbours' herds. This consideration did not affect him. He was much +given to sneering at what he could not understand; and therefore, a +great deal met with his disapproval. His reading had evidently brought +him down only to about the middle sixties; and affairs at that date were +to him still burning questions. Thus he would declaim vehemently over +the Alabama claims. + +"I blush with shame," he would cry, "when I think of England's attitude +in that matter." + +We pointed out that the dispute had been amicably settled by the best +minds of the time, had passed between the covers of history, and had +given way in immediate importance to several later topics. + +"This vacillating policy," he swept on, "annoys me. For my part, I +should like to see so firm a stand taken on all questions that in any +part of the world, whenever a man, and wherever a man, said 'I am an +Englishman? everybody else would draw back!'" + +He was an incredible person. However, I was glad to see him; he and a +few others of his kind have consoled me for a number of Americans I have +met abroad. Lady A., with the tolerant philosophy of her class, seemed +merely amused. I have often since wondered how this ill-assorted +partnership turned out. + +Two other neighbours of ours dropped in once or twice-twenty-six miles +on bicycles, on which they could ride only a portion of the distance. +They had some sort of a ranch up in the Ithanga Hills; and were two of +the nicest fellows one would want to meet, brimful of energy, game for +anything, and had so good a time always that the grumpiest fever could +not prevent every one else having a good time too. Once they rode +on their bicycles forty miles to Nairobi, danced half the night at +a Government House ball, rode back in the early morning, and did an +afternoon's plowing! They explained this feat by pointing out most +convincingly that the ground was just right for plowing, but they did +not want to miss the ball! + +Occasionally a trim and dapper police official would drift in on +horseback looking for native criminals; and once a safari came by. +Twelve miles away was the famous Kamiti Farm of Heatly, where Roosevelt +killed his buffalo; and once or twice Heatly himself, a fine chap, came +to see us. Also just before I left with Duirs for a lion hunt on Kapiti, +Lady Girouard, wife of the Governor, and her nephew and niece rode out +for a hunt. In the African fashion, all these people brought their own +personal servants. It makes entertaining easy. Nobody knows where all +these boys sleep; but they manage to tuck away somewhere, and always +show up after a mysterious system of their own whenever there is +anything to be done. + +We stayed at Juja a little over three weeks. Then most reluctantly said +farewell and returned to Nairobi in preparation for a long trip to the +south. + + + + +XXIX. CHAPTER THE LAST + +With our return from Juja to Nairobi for a breathing space, this volume +comes to a logical conclusion. In it I have tried to give a fairly +comprehensive impression-it could hardly be a picture of so large a +subject-of a portion of East Equatorial Africa, its animals, and its +people. Those who are sufficiently interested will have an opportunity +in a succeeding volume of wandering with us even farther afield. The +low jungly coast region; the fierce desert of the Serengetti; the swift +sullen rhinoceros-haunted stretches of the Tsavo; Nairobi, the strangest +mixture of the twentieth centuries A.D. and B.C.; Mombasa with its wild, +barbaric passionate ebb and flow of life, of colour, of throbbing sound, +the great lions of the Kapiti Plains, the Thirst of the Loieta, the +Masai spearmen, the long chase for the greater kudu; the wonderful, high +unknown country beyond the Narossara and other affairs will there be +detailed. If the reader of this volume happens to want more, there he +will find it. + + + + +APPENDIX I + +Most people are very much interested in how hot it gets in such tropics +as we traversed. Unfortunately it is very difficult to tell them. +Temperature tables have very little to do with the matter, for humidity +varies greatly. On the Serengetti at lower reaches of the Guaso Nyero +I have seen it above 110 degrees. It was hot, to be sure, but not +exhaustingly so. On the other hand, at 90 or 95 degrees the low coast +belt I have had the sweat run from me literally in streams; so that a +muddy spot formed wherever I stood still. In the highlands, moreover, +the nights were often extremely cold. I have recorded night temperatures +as low as 40 at 7000 feet of elevation; and noon temperatures as low 65. + +Of more importance than the actual or sensible temperature of the air +is the power of the sun's rays. At all times of year this is practically +constant; for the orb merely swings a few degrees north and south of +the equator, and the extreme difference in time between its risings or +settings is not more than twenty minutes. This power is also practically +constant whatever the temperature of the air and is dangerous even on a +cloudy day, when the heat waves are effectually screened off, but when +the actinic rays are as active as ever. For this reason the protection +of helmet and spine pad should never be omitted, no matter what the +condition of the weather, between nine o'clock and four. A very brief +exposure is likely to prove fatal. It should be added that some people +stand these actinic rays better than others. + +Such being the case, mere temperature tables could have little interest +to the general reader. I append a few statistics, selected from many, +and illustrative of the different conditions. + + + Locality. Elevation 6am noon 8pm Apparent conditions + Coast --- 80 90 76 Very hot and sticky + Isiola River 2900 65 94 84 Hot but not exhausting + Tans River 3350 68 98 79 Hot but not exhausting + Near Meru 5450 62 80 70 Very pleasant + Serengetti Plains 2200 78 106 86 Hot and humid + Narossara River 5450 54 89 69 Very pleasant + Narossara Mts. 7400 42 80 50 Chilly + Narossara Mts. 6450 40 62 52 Cold + + + + +APPENDIX II + +GAME ANIMALS COLLECTED + + Lion Bush pig Grant's gazelle + Serval cat Baboon Thompson's gazelle + Cheetah Colobus Gerenuk gazelle + Black-backed jackal Hippopotamus Coke's hartebeests + Silver jackal Rhinoceros Jackson's hartebeests + Striped hyena Crocodile Neuman's hartebeests + Spotted hyena Python Chandler's reedbuck + Fennec fox Ward's zebra Bohur reedbuck + Honey badger Grevy's zebra Beisa ox + Aardewolf Notata gazelle Fringe-eared oryx + Wart-hog Roberts' gazelle Duiker + Waterbuck Klipspringer Harvey's duiker + Sing-sing Dik-dik Greater kudu + Oribi (3 varieties) Wildebeeste Lesser kudu + Eland Roosevelt's wildebeests Sable antelope + Roan antelope Buffalo + Bushbuck Topi + + Total, fifty-four kinds + + +GAME BIRDS COLLECTED + + Marabout Gadwall Lesser bustard + Egret European stork Guinea fowl + Glossy ibis Quail Giant guinea fowl + Egyptian goose Sand grouse Green pigeon + White goose Francolin Blue pigeon + English snipe Spur fowl Dove (2 species) + Mallard duck Greater bustard + + Total, twenty-two kinds + + + + +APPENDIX III + +For the benefit of the sportsman and gun crank who want plain facts and +no flapdoodle, the following statistics are offered. To the lay reader +this inclusion will be incomprehensible; but I know my gun crank as I am +one myself! + +Army Springfield, model 1903 to take the 1906 cartridge, shooting the +Spitzer sharp point bullet. Stocked to suit me by Ludwig Wundhammer, +and fitted with Sheard gold bead front sight and Lyman aperture +receiver sight. With this I did most my shooting, as the trajectory was +remarkably good, and the killing power remarkable. Tried out both the +old-fashioned soft point bullets and the sharp Spitzer bullets, but find +the latter far the more effective. In fact the paralyzing shock given +by the Spitzer is almost beyond belief. African animals are notably +tenacious of life; but the Springfield dropped nearly half the animals +dead with one shot; a most unusual record, as every sportsman will +recognize. The bullets seemed on impact always to flatten slightly at +the base, the point remaining intact-to spin widely on the axis, and +to plunge off at an angle. This action of course depended on the high +velocity. The requisite velocity, however seemed to keep up within all +shooting ranges. A kongoni I killed at 638 paces (measured), and another +at 566 paces both exhibited this action of the bullet. I mention these +ranges because I have seen the statement in print that the remaining +velocity beyond 350 yards would not be sufficient in this arm to prevent +the bullet passing through cleanly. I should also hasten to add that I +do not habitually shoot at game at the above ranges; but did so in these +two instances for the precise purpose of testing the arm. Metal fouling +did not bother me at all, though I had been led to expect trouble from +it. The weapon was always cleaned with water so boiling hot that the +heat of the barrel dried it. When occasionally flakes of metal fouling +became visible a Marble brush always sufficed to remove enough of it. It +was my habit to smear the bullets with mobilubricant before placing +them in the magazine. This was not as much of a nuisance as it sounds. A +small tin box about the size of a pill box lasted me the whole trip; and +only once did I completely empty the magazine at one time. On my return +I tested the rifle very thoroughly for accuracy. In spite of careful +cleaning the barrel was in several places slightly corroded. For this +the climate was responsible. The few small pittings, however, did not +seem in any way to have affected the accuracy, as the rifle shot the +following groups: 3-1/2 inches at 200 yards; 7-1/4 inches at 300 yards; +and 11-1/2 inches at 500 yards.* + + * It shot one five-shot 1-2/3 inch group at 200 yds., and + several others at all distances less than the figures given, + but I am convinced these must have been largely accidental. + + +These groups were not made from a machine rest, however; as none was +available. The complete record with this arm for my whole stay in Africa +was 307 hits out of 395 cartridges fired, representing 185 head of game +killed. Most of this shooting was for meat and represented also all +sorts of "varmints" as well. + +The 405 Winchester. This weapon was sighted like the Springfield, and +was constantly in the field as my second gun. For lions it could not be +beaten; as it was very accurate, delivered a hard blow, and held +five cartridges. Beyond 125 to 150 yards one had to begin to guess at +distance, so for ordinary shooting I preferred the Springfield. In +thick brush country, however, where one was likely to come suddenly +on rhinoceroes, but where one wanted to be ready always for desirable +smaller game, the Winchester was just the thing. It was short, handy, +and reliable. One experience with a zebra 300-350 yards has made me +question whether at long (hunting) ranges the remaining velocity of the +big blunt nosed bullet is not seriously reduced; but as to that I have +not enough data for a final conclusion. I have no doubt, however, that +at such ranges, and beyond, the little Springfield has more shocking +power. Of course at closer ranges the Winchester is by far the more +powerful. I killed one rhinoceros with the 405, one buffalo and one +hippo; but should consider it too light for an emergency gun against +the larger dangerous animals, such as buffalo and rhinoceros. If one has +time for extreme accuracy, and can pick the shot, it is plenty big; but +I refer now to close quarters in a hurry. I had no trouble whatever with +the mechanism of this arm; nor have I ever had trouble with any of the +lever actions, although I have used them for many years. As regards +speed of fire the controversy between the lever and bolt action +advocates seems to me foolish in the extreme. Either action can be fired +faster than it should be fired in the presence of game. It is my belief +that any man, no matter how practised or how cool, can stampede himself +beyond his best accuracy by pumping out his shots too rapidly. This is +especially true in the face of charging dangerous game. So firmly do I +believe this that I generally take the rifle from my shoulder between +each shot. Even aimed rapid fire is of no great value as compared with +better aimed slower fire. The first bullet delivers to an animal's +nervous system about all the shock it can absorb. If the beast is not +thereby knocked down and held down, subsequent shots can accomplish that +desirable result only by reaching a vital spot or by tearing tissue. +As an example of this I might instance a waterbuck into which I saw +my companion empty five heavy 465 and double 500 bullets from cordite +rifles before it fell! Thus if the game gets to its feet after the first +shock, it is true that the hunter will often empty into it six or seven +more bullets without apparent result, unless he aims carefully for a +centrally vital point. It follows that therefore a second shot aimed +with enough care to land it in that point is worth a lot more than a +half dozen delivered in three or four seconds with only the accuracy +necessary to group decently at very short range, even if all of them +hit the beast. I am perfectly aware that this view will probably +be disputed; but it is the result of considerable experience, close +observation and real interest in the game. The whole record of the +Winchester was 56 hits out of 70 cartridges fired; representing 27 head +of game. + +The 465 Holland & Holland double cordite rifle. This beautiful weapon, +built and balanced like a fine hammerless shotgun, was fitted with open +sights. It was of course essentially a close range emergency gun, but +was capable of accurate work at a distance. I killed one buffalo dead +with it, across a wide canyon, with the 300-yard leaf up on the +back sight. Its game list however was limited to rhinoceroses, +hippopotamuses, buffaloes and crocodiles. The recoil in spite of its +weight of twelve and one half pounds, was tremendous; but unnoticeable +when I was shooting at any of these brutes. Its total record was 31 +cartridges fired with 29 hits representing 13 head of game. + +The conditions militating against marksmanship are often severe. Hard +work in the tropics is not the most steadying regime in the world, and +outside a man's nerves, he is often bothered by queer lights, and the +effects of the mirage that swirls from the sun-heated plain. The ranges, +too, are rather long. I took the trouble to pace out about every kill, +and find that antelope in the plains averaged 245 yards; with a maximum +of 638 yards, while antelope in covered country averaged 148 yards, with +a maximum of 311. + + + + +APPENDIX IV. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA + +IN WHICH HE APPEARS AS DIFFERENT FROM THE ENGLISHMAN + +It is always interesting to play the other fellow's game his way, and +then, in light of experience, to see wherein our way and his way modify +each other. + +The above proposition here refers to camping. We do considerable of it +in our country, especially in our North and West. After we have been +at it for some time, we evolve a method of our own. The basis of that +method is to do without; to GO LIGHT. At first even the best of us will +carry too much plunder, but ten years of philosophy and rainstorms, +trails and trials, will bring us to an irreducible minimum. A party of +three will get along with two pack horses, say; or, on a harder trip, +each will carry the necessities on his own back. To take just as little +as is consistent with comfort is to play the game skilfully. Any article +must pay in use for its transportation. + +With this ideal deeply ingrained by the test of experience, the American +camper is appalled by the caravan his British cousins consider necessary +for a trip into the African back country. His said cousin has, perhaps, +very kindly offered to have his outfit ready for him when he arrives. +He does arrive to find from one hundred to one hundred and fifty men +gathered as his personal attendants. + +"Great Scot!" he cries, "I want to go camping; I don't want to invade +anybody's territory. Why the army?" + +He discovers that these are porters, to carry his effects. + +"What effects?" he demands, bewildered. As far as he knows, he has +two guns, some ammunition, and a black tin box, bought in London, and +half-filled with extra clothes, a few medicines, a thermometer, and +some little personal knick-knacks. He has been wondering what else he +is going to put in to keep things from rattling about. Of course he +expected besides these to take along a little plain grub, and some +blankets, and a frying pan and kettle or so. + +The English friend has known several Americans, so he explains +patiently. + +"I know this seems foolish to you," he says, "but you must remember you +are under the equator and you must do things differently here. As long +as you keep fit you are safe; but if you get run down a bit you'll go. +You've got to do yourself well, down here, rather better than you have +to in any other climate. You need all the comfort you can get; and you +want to save yourself all you can." + +This has a reasonable sound and the American does not yet know the game. +Recovering from his first shock, he begins to look things over. There +is a double tent, folding camp chair, folding easy chair, folding table, +wash basin, bath tub, cot, mosquito curtains, clothes hangers; there are +oil lanterns, oil carriers, two loads of mysterious cooking utensils and +cook camp stuff; there is an open fly, which his friend explains is his +dining tent; and there are from a dozen to twenty boxes standing in a +row, each with its padlock. "I didn't go in for luxury," apologizes the +English friend. "Of course we can easily add anything you want but I +remember you wrote me that you wanted to travel light." + +"What are those?" our American inquires, pointing to the locked boxes. + +He learns that they are chop boxes, containing food and supplies. At +this he rises on his hind legs and paws the air. + +"Food!" he shrieks. "Why, man alive, I'm alone, and I am only going to +be out three months! I can carry all I'll ever eat in three months in +one of those boxes." + +But the Englishman patiently explains. You cannot live on "bacon and +beans" in this country, so to speak. You must do yourself rather well, +you know, to keep in condition. And you cannot pack food in bags, +it must be tinned. And then, of course, such things as your sparklet +siphons and lime juice require careful packing-and your champagne. + +"Champagne," breathes the American in awestricken tones. + +"Exactly, dear boy, an absolute necessity. After a touch of sun there's +nothing picks you up better than a mouthful of fizz. It's used as a +medicine, not a drink, you understand." + +The American reflects again that this is the other fellow's game, and +that the other fellow has been playing it for some time, and that he +ought to know. But he cannot yet see why the one hundred and fifty men. +Again the Englishman explains. There is the Headman to run the show. +Correct: we need him. Then there are four askaris. What are they? Native +soldiers. No, you won't be fighting anything; but they keep the men +going, and act as sort of sub-foremen in bossing the complicated work. +Next is your cook, and your own valet and that of your horse. Also your +two gunbearers. + +"Hold on!" cries our friend. "I have only two guns, and I'm going to +carry one myself." + +But this, he learns, is quite impossible. It is never done. It is +absolutely necessary, in this climate, to avoid all work. + +That makes how many? Ten already, and there seem to be three tent +loads, one bed load, one chair and table load, one lantern load, two +miscellaneous loads, two cook loads, one personal box, and fifteen chop +boxes-total twenty-six, plus the staff, as above, thirty-six. Why all +the rest of the army? + +Very simple: these thirty-six men have, according to regulation, seven +tents, and certain personal effects, and they must have "potio" or a +ration of one and a half pounds per diem. These things must be carried +by more men. + +"I see," murmurs the American, crushed, "and these more men have more +tents and more potio, which must also be carried. It's like the House +that Jack Built." + +So our American concludes still once again that the other fellow knows +his own game, and starts out. He learns he has what is called a "modest +safari"; and spares a fleeting wonder as to what a really elaborate +safari must be. The procession takes the field. He soon sees the value +of the four askaris-the necessity of whom he has secretly doubted. +Without their vigorous seconding the headman would have a hard time +indeed. Also, when he observes the labour of tent-making, packing, +washing, and general service performed by his tent boy, he abandons the +notion that that individual could just as well take care of the horse as +well, especially as the horse has to have all his grass cut and brought +to him. At evening our friend has a hot bath, a long cool fizzly drink +of lime juice and soda; he puts on the clean clothes laid out for him, +assumes soft mosquito boots, and sits down to dinner. This is served +to him in courses, and on enamel ware. Each course has its proper-sized +plate and cutlery. He starts with soup, goes down through tinned +whitebait or other fish, an entree, a roast, perhaps a curry, a sweet, +and small coffee. He is certainly being "done well," and he enjoys the +comfort of it. + +There comes a time when he begins to wonder a little. It is all very +pleasant, of course, and perhaps very necessary; they all tell him it +is. But, after all, it is a little galling to the average man to think +that of him. Your Englishman doesn't mind that; he enjoys being taken +care of: but the sportsman of American training likes to stand on his +own feet as far as he is able and conditions permit. Besides, it is +expensive. Besides that, it is a confounded nuisance, especially when +potio gives out and more must be sought, near or far. Then, if he is +wise, he begins to do a little figuring on his own account. + +My experience was very much as above. Three of us went out for eleven +weeks with what was considered a very "modest" safari indeed. It +comprised one hundred and eighteen men. My fifth and last trip, also +with two companions, was for three months. Our personnel consisted, all +told, forty men. + +In essentials the Englishman is absolutely right. One cannot camp in +Africa as one would at home. The experimenter would be dead in a month. +In his application of that principle, however, he seems to the American +point of view to overshoot. Let us examine his proposition in terms of +the essentials-food, clothing, shelter. There is no doubt but that a man +must keep in top condition as far as possible; and that, to do so, he +must have plenty of good food. He can never do as we do on very hard +trips at home: take a little tea, sugar, coffee, flour, salt, oatmeal. +But on the other hand, he certainly does not need a five-course dinner +every night, nor a complete battery of cutlery, napery and table ware to +eat it from. Flour, sugar, oatmeal, tea and coffee, rice, beans, onions, +curry, dried fruits, a little bacon, and some dehydrated vegetables +will do him very well indeed-with what he can shoot. These will pack in +waterproof bags very comfortably. In addition to feeding himself well, +he finds he must not sleep next to the ground, he must have a hot bath +every day, but never a cold one, and he must shelter himself with a +double tent against the sun. + +Those are the absolute necessities of the climate. In other words, if +he carries a double tent, a cot, a folding bath; and gives a little +attention to a properly balanced food supply, he has met the situation. + +If, in addition, he takes canned goods, soda siphons, lime juice, easy +chairs and all the rest of the paraphernalia, he is merely using a basic +principle as an excuse to include sheer luxuries. In further extenuation +of this he is apt to argue that porters are cheap, and that it costs +but little more to carry these extra comforts. Against this argument, of +course, I have nothing to say. It is the inalienable right of every +man to carry all the luxuries he wants. My point is that the average +American sportsman does not want them, and only takes them because he is +overpersuaded that these things are not luxuries, but necessities. For, +mark you, he could take the same things into the Sierras or the North-by +paying; but he doesn't. + +I repeat, it is the inalienable right of any man to travel as +luxuriously as he pleases. But by the same token it is not his right to +pretend that luxuries are necessities. That is to put himself into the +same category with the man who always finds some other excuse for taking +a drink than the simple one that he wants it. + +The Englishman's point of view is that he objects to "pigging it," as +he says. "Pigging it" means changing your home habits in any way. If you +have been accustomed to eating your sardines after a meal, and somebody +offers them to you first, that is "pigging it." In other words, as +nearly as I can make out, "pigging it" does not so much mean doing +things in an inadequate fashion as DOING THEM DIFFERENTLY. Therefore, +the Englishman in the field likes to approximate as closely as may be +his life in town, even if it takes one hundred and fifty men to do it. +Which reduces the "pigging it" argument to an attempt at condemnation by +calling names. + +The American temperament, on the contrary, being more experimental +and independent, prefers to build anew upon its essentials. Where the +Englishman covers the situation blanket-wise with his old institutions, +the American prefers to construct new institutions on the necessities of +the case. He objects strongly to being taken care of too completely. He +objects strongly to losing the keen enjoyment of overcoming difficulties +and enduring hardships. The Englishman by habit and training has no such +objections. He likes to be taken care of, financially, personally, and +everlastingly. That is his ideal of life. If he can be taken care of +better by employing three hundred porters and packing eight tin trunks +of personal effects-as I have seen it done-he will so employ and take. +That is all right: he likes it. + +But the American does not like it. A good deal of the fun for him is in +going light, in matching himself against his environment. It is no +fun to him to carry his complete little civilization along with him, +laboriously. If he must have cotton wool, let it be as little cotton +wool as possible. He likes to be comfortable; but he likes to be +comfortable with the minimum of means. Striking just the proper balance +somehow adds to his interest in the game. And how he DOES object to +that ever-recurring thought-that he is such a helpless mollusc that it +requires a small regiment to get him safely around the country! + +Both means are perfectly legitimate, of course; and neither view is +open to criticism. All either man is justified in saying is that he, +personally, wouldn't get much fun out of doing it the other way. As a +matter of fact, human nature generally goes beyond its justifications +and is prone to criticise. The Englishman waxes a trifle caustic on the +subject of "pigging it"; and the American indulges in more than a bit +of sarcasm on the subject of "being led about Africa like a dog on a +string." + +By some such roundabout mental process as the above the American comes +to the conclusion that he need not necessarily adopt the other fellow's +method of playing this game. His own method needs modification, but it +will do. He ventures to leave out the tables and easy chair, takes a +camp stool and eats off a chop box. To the best of his belief his health +does not suffer from this. He gets on with a camper's allowance of +plate, cup and cutlery, and so cuts out a load and a half of assorted +kitchen utensils and table ware. He even does without a tablecloth and +napkins! He discards the lime juice and siphons, and purchases a +canvas evaporation bag to cool the water. He fires one gunbearer, and +undertakes the formidable physical feat of carrying one of his rifles +himself. And, above all, he modifies that grub list. The purchase of +waterproof bags gets rid of a lot of tin: the staple groceries do quite +as well as London fancy stuff. Golden syrup takes the place of all the +miscellaneous jams, marmalades and other sweets. The canned goods go +by the board. He lays in a stock of dried fruit. At the end, he is +possessed of a grub list but little different from that of his Rocky +Mountain trips. Some few items he has cut down; and some he has +substituted; but bulk and weight are the same. For his three months' +trip he has four or five chop boxes all told. + +And then suddenly he finds that thus he has made a reduction all along +the line. Tent load, two men; grub and kitchen, five men; personal, one +man; bed, one man; miscellaneous, one or two. There is now no need for +headmen and askaris to handle this little lot. Twenty more to carry food +for the men-he is off with a quarter of the number of his first "modest +safari." + +You who are sportsmen and are not going to Africa, as is the case with +most, will perhaps read this, because we are always interested in how +the other fellow does it. To the few who are intending an exploration +of the dark continent this concentration of a year's experience may be +valuable. Remember to sleep off the ground, not to starve yourself, +to protect yourself from the sun, to let negroes do all hard work +but marching and hunting. Do these things your own way, using your +common-sense on how to get at it. You'll be all right. + +That, I conceive, covers the case. The remainder of your equipment has +to do with camp affairs, and merely needs listing. The question here is +not of the sort to get, but of what to take. The tents, cooking affairs, +etc., are well adapted to the country. In selecting your tent, however, +you will do very well to pick out one whose veranda fly reaches fairly +to the ground, instead of stopping halfway. + + 1 tent and ground sheet + 1 folding cot and cork mattress, + 1 pillow, 3 single blankets + 1 combined folding bath and ashstand ("X" brand) + 1 camp stool + 3 folding candle lanterns + 1 gallon turpentine + 3 lbs. alum + 1 river rope + Sail needles and twine + 3 pangas (native tools for chopping and digging) + Cook outfit (select these yourself, and cut out the extras) + 2 axes (small) + Plenty laundry soap + Evaporation bag + 2 pails + 10 yards cotton cloth ("Mericani") + +These things, your food, your porters' outfits and what trade goods you +may need are quite sufficient. You will have all you want, and not too +much. If you take care of yourself, you ought to keep in good health. +Your small outfit permits greater mobility than does that of the English +cousin, infinitely less nuisance and expense. Furthermore, you feel that +once more you are "next to things," instead of "being led about Africa +like a dog on a string." + + + + +APPENDIX V. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA + +WHAT HE SHOULD TAKE + +Before going to Africa I read as many books as I could get hold of on +the subject, some of them by Americans. In every case the authors have +given a chapter detailing the necessary outfit. Invariably they have +followed the Englishman's ideas almost absolutely. Nobody has ventured +to modify those ideas in any essential manner. Some have deprecatingly +ventured to remark that it is as well to leave out the tinned carfare-if +you do not like carfare; but that is as far as they care to go. The +lists are those of the firms who make a business of equipping caravans. +The heads of such firms are generally old African travellers. They +furnish the equipment their customers demand; and as English sportsmen +generally all demand the same thing, the firms end by issuing a printed +list of essentials for shooting parties in Africa, including carfare. +Travellers follow the lists blindly, and later copy them verbatim into +their books. Not one has thought to empty out the whole bag of tricks, +to examine them in the light of reason, and to pick out what a man of +American habits, as contrasted to one of English habits, would like to +have. This cannot be done a priori; it requires the test of experience +to determine how to meet, in our own way, the unusual demands of climate +and conditions. + +And please note, when the heads of these equipment firms, these old +African travellers, take the field for themselves, they pay no attention +whatever to their own printed lists of "essentials." + +Now, premising that the English sportsman has, by many years' +experience, worked out just what he likes to take into the field; and +assuring you solemnly that his ideas are not in the least the ideas of +American sportsman, let us see if we cannot do something for ourselves. + +At present the American has either to take over in toto the English +idea, which is not adapted to him, and is-TO HIM-a nuisance, or to go it +blind, without experience except that acquired in a temperate climate, +which is dangerous. I am not going to copy out the English list again, +even for comparison. I have not the space; and if curious enough, you +can find it in any book on modern African travel. Of course I realize +well that few Americans go to Africa; but I also realize well that +the sportsman is a crank, a wild and eager enthusiast over items of +equipment anywhere. He-and I am thinking emphatically of him-would +avidly devour the details of the proper outfit for the gentle art of +hunting the totally extinct whiffenpoof. + +Let us begin, first of all, with: + +Personal Equipment Clothes. On the top of your head you must have a sun +helmet. Get it of cork, not of pith. The latter has a habit of melting +unobtrusively about your ears when it rains. A helmet in brush is the +next noisiest thing to a circus band, so it is always well to have, +also, a double terai. This is not something to eat. It is a wide +felt hat, and then another wide felt hat on top of that. The +vertical-rays-of-the-tropical-sun (pronounced as one word to save time +after you have heard and said it a thousand times) are supposed to get +tangled and lost somewhere between the two hats. It is not, however, a +good contraption to go in all day when the sun is strong. + +As underwear you want the lightest Jaeger wool. Doesn't sound well for +tropics, but it is an essential. You will sweat enough anyway, even if +you get down to a brass wire costume like the natives. It is when you +stop in the shade, or the breeze, or the dusk of evening, that the +trouble comes. A chill means trouble, SURE. Two extra suits are all you +want. There is no earthly sense in bringing more. Your tent boy washes +them out whenever he can lay hands on them-it is one of his harmless +manias. + +Your shirt should be of the thinnest brown flannel. Leather the +shoulders, and part way down the upper arm, with chamois. This is to +protect your precious garment against the thorns when you dive through +them. On the back you have buttons sewed wherewith to attach a spine +pad. Before I went to Africa I searched eagerly for information or +illustration of a spine pad. I guessed what it must be for, and to an +extent what it must be like, but all writers maintained a conservative +reticence as to the thing itself. Here is the first authorized +description. A spine pad is a quilted affair in consistency like the +things you are supposed to lift hot flat-irons with. On the outside it +is brown flannel, like the shirt; on the inside it is a gaudy orange +colour. The latter is not for aesthetic effect, but to intercept actinic +rays. It is eight or ten inches wide, is shaped to button close up under +your collar, and extends halfway down your back. In addition it is well +to wear a silk handkerchief around the neck; as the spine and back of +the head seem to be the most vulnerable to the sun. + +For breeches, suit yourself as to material. It will have to be very +tough, and of fast colour. The best cut is the "semi-riding," loose +at the knees, which should be well faced with soft leather, both for +crawling, and to save the cloth in grass and low brush. One pair ought +to last four months, roughly speaking. You will find a thin pair of +ordinary khaki trousers very comfortable as a change for wear about +camp. In passing I would call your attention to "shorts." Shorts are +loose, bobbed off khaki breeches, like knee drawers. With them are worn +puttees or leather leggings, and low boots. The knees are bare. They are +much affected by young Englishmen. I observed them carefully at every +opportunity, and my private opinion is that man has rarely managed to +invent as idiotically unfitted a contraption for the purpose in hand. +In a country teeming with poisonous insects, ticks, fever-bearing +mosquitoes; in a country where vegetation is unusually well armed with +thorns, spines and hooks, mostly poisonous; in a country where, oftener +than in any other a man is called upon to get down on his hands and +knees and crawl a few assorted abrading miles, it would seem an obvious +necessity to protect one's bare skin as much as possible. The only +reason given for these astonishing garments is that they are cooler and +freer to walk in. That I can believe. But they allow ticks and other +insects to crawl up, mosquitoes to bite, thorns to tear, and assorted +troubles to enter. And I can vouch by experience that ordinary breeches +are not uncomfortably hot or tight. Indeed, one does not get especially +hot in the legs anyway. I noticed that none of the old-time hunters like +Cuninghame or Judd wore shorts. The real reason is not that they are +cool, but that they are picturesque. Common belief to the contrary, your +average practical, matter-of-fact Englishman loves to dress up. I knew +one engaged in farming-picturesque farming-in our own West, who used +to appear at afternoon tea in a clean suit of blue overalls! It is a +harmless amusement. Our own youths do it, also, substituting chaps for +shorts, perhaps. I am not criticising the spirit in them; but merely +trying to keep mistaken shorts off you. + +For leg gear I found that nothing could beat our American combination of +high-laced boots and heavy knit socks. Leather leggings are noisy, and +the rolled puttees hot and binding. Have your boots ten or twelve inches +high, with a flap to buckle over the tie of the laces, with soles of the +mercury-impregnated leather called "elk hide," and with small Hungarian +hobs. Your tent boy will grease these every day with "dubbin," of +which you want a good supply. It is not my intention to offer free +advertisements generally, but I wore one pair of boots all the time I +was in Africa, through wet, heat, and long, long walking. They were +in good condition when I gave them away finally, and had not started a +stitch. They were made by that excellent craftsman, A. A. Cutter, of +Eau Claire, Wis., and he deserves and is entirely welcome to this puff. +Needless to remark, I have received no especial favours from Mr. Cutter. + +Six pairs of woollen socks, knit by hand, if possible-will be enough. +For evening, when you come in, I know nothing better than a pair of very +high moosehide moccasins. They should, however, be provided with thin +soles against the stray thorn, and should reach well above the ankle by +way of defence against the fever mosquito. That festive insect carries +on a surreptitious guerrilla warfare low down. The English "mosquito +boot" is simply an affair like a riding boot, made of suede leather, +with thin soles. It is most comfortable. My objection is that it +is unsubstantial and goes to pieces in a very brief time even under +ordinary evening wear about camp. + +You will also want a coat. In American camping I have always maintained +the coat is a useless garment. There one does his own work to a large +extent. When at work or travel the coat is in the way. When in camp +the sweater or buckskin shirt is handier, and more easily carried. In +Africa, however, where the other fellow does most of the work, a coat +is often very handy. Do not make the mistake of getting an unlined +light-weight garment. When you want it at all, you want it warm and +substantial. Stick on all the pockets possible, and have them button +securely. + +For wet weather there is nothing to equal a long and voluminous cape. +Straps crossing the chest and around the waist permit one to throw it +off the shoulders to shoot. It covers the hands, the rifle-most of the +little horses or mules one gets out there. One can sleep in or on it, +and it is a most effective garment against heavy winds. One suit of +pajamas is enough, considering your tent boy's commendable mania for +laundry work. Add handkerchiefs and you are fixed. + +You will wear most of the above, and put what remains in your "officer's +box." This is a thin steel, air-tight affair with a wooden bottom, and +is the ticket for African work. + +Sporting. Pick out your guns to suit yourself. You want a light one and +a heavy one. + +When I came to send out my ammunition, I was forced again to take the +other fellow's experience. I was told by everybody that I should bring +plenty, that it was better to have too much than too little, etc. I +rather thought so myself, and accordingly shipped a trifle over 1,500 +rounds of small bore cartridges. Unfortunately, I never got into the +field with any of my numerous advisers on this point, so cannot state +their methods from first-hand information. Inductive reasoning leads me +to believe that they consider it unsportsmanlike to shoot at a standing +animal at all, or at one running nearer than 250 yards. Furthermore, it +is etiquette to continue firing until the last cloud of dust has died +down on the distant horizon. Only thus can I conceive of getting rid +of that amount of ammunition. In eight months of steady shooting, +for example-shooting for trophies, as well as to feed a safari of +fluctuating numbers, counting jackals, marabout and such small trash-I +got away with 395 rounds of small bore ammunition and about 100 of +large. This accounted for 225 kills. That should give one an idea. +Figure out how many animals you are likely to want for ANY purpose, +multiply by three, and bring that many cartridges. + +To carry these cartridges I should adopt the English system of a stout +leather belt on which you slip various sized pockets and loops to suit +the occasion. Each unit has loops for ten cartridges. You rarely want +more than that; and if you do, your gunbearer is supplied. In addition +to the loops, you have leather pockets to carry your watch; your money, +your matches and tobacco, your compass-anything you please. They +are handy and safe. The tropical climate is too "sticky" to get much +comfort, or anything else, out of ordinary pockets. + +In addition, you supply your gunbearer with a cartridge belt, a leather +or canvas carrying bag, water bottle for him and for yourself, a sheath +knife and a whetstone. In the bag are your camera, tape line, the +whetstone, field cleaners and lunch. You personally carry your field +glasses, sun glasses, a knife, compass, matches, police whistle and +notebook. The field glasses should not be more than six power; and if +possible you should get the sort with detachable prisms. The prisms +are apt to cloud in a tropical climate, and the non-detachable sort are +almost impossible for a layman to clean. Hang these glasses around your +neck by a strap only just long enough to permit you to raise them to +your eyes. The best notebook is the "loose-leaf" sort. By means of this +you can keep always a fresh leaf on top; and at night can transfer your +day's notes to safe keeping in your tin box. The sun glasses should not +be smoked or dark-you can do nothing with them-but of the new amberol, +the sort that excludes the ultra-violet rays, but otherwise makes the +world brighter and gayer. Spectacle frames of non-corrosive white metal, +not steel, are the proper sort. + +To clean your guns you must supply plenty of oil, and then some more. +The East African gunbearer has a quite proper and gratifying, but most +astonishing horror for a suspicion of rust; and to use oil any faster he +would have to drink it. + +Other Equipment. All this has taken much time to tell about, it has not +done much toward filling up that tin box. Dump in your toilet effects +and a bath towel, two or three scalpels for taxidermy, a ball of string, +some safety-pins, a small tool kit, sewing materials, a flask of brandy, +kodak films packed in tin, a boxed thermometer, an aneroid (if you are +curious as to elevations), journal, tags for labelling trophies, a few +yards of gun cloth, and the medicine kit. + +The latter divides into two classes: for your men and for yourself. +The men will suffer from certain well defined troubles: "tumbo," +or overeating; diarrhaea, bronchial colds, fever and various small +injuries. For "tumbo" you want a liberal supply of Epsom's salts; for +diarrhaea you need chlorodyne; any good expectorant for the colds; +quinine for the fever; permanganate and plenty of bandages for the +injuries. With this lot you can do wonders. For yourself you need, +or may need, in addition, a more elaborate lot: Laxative, quinine, +phenacetin, bismuth and soda, bromide of ammonium, morphia, camphor-ice, +and aspirin. A clinical thermometer for whites and one for blacks should +be included. A tin of malted milk is not a bad thing to take as an +emergency ration after fever. + +By this time your tin box is fairly well provided. You may turn to +general supplies. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Land of Footprints, by Stewart Edward White + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF FOOTPRINTS *** + +***** This file should be named 1378.txt or 1378.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/7/1378/ + +Produced by Aaron Cannon + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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ON BOOKS OF ADVENTURE + +Books of sporting, travel, and adventure in countries little +known to the average reader naturally fall in two +classes-neither, with a very few exceptions, of great value. One +class is perhaps the logical result of the other. + +Of the first type is the book that is written to make the most of +far travels, to extract from adventure the last thrill, to +impress the awestricken reader with a full sense of the danger +and hardship the writer has undergone. Thus, if the latter takes +out quite an ordinary routine permit to go into certain +districts, he makes the most of travelling in "closed territory," +implying that he has obtained an especial privilege, and has +penetrated where few have gone before him. As a matter of fact, +the permit is issued merely that the authorities may keep track +of who is where. Anybody can get one. This class of writer tells +of shooting beasts at customary ranges of four and five hundred +yards. I remember one in especial who airily and as a matter of +fact killed all his antelope at such ranges. Most men have shot +occasional beasts at a quarter mile or so, but not airily nor as +a matter of fact: rather with thanksgiving and a certain amount +of surprise. The gentleman of whom I speak mentioned getting an +eland at seven hundred and fifty yards. By chance I happened to +mention this to a native Africander. + +"Yes," said he, "I remember that; I was there." + +This interested me-and I said so. + +"He made a long shot," said I. + +"A GOOD long shot," replied the Africander. + +"Did you pace the distance?" + +He laughed. "No," said he, "the old chap was immensely delighted. +'Eight hundred yards if it was an inch!' he cried." + +"How far was it?" + +"About three hundred and fifty. But it was a long shot, all +right." + +And it was! Three hundred and fifty yards is a very long shot. It +is over four city blocks-New York size. But if you talk often +enough and glibly enough of "four and five hundred yards," it +does not sound like much, does it? + +The same class of writer always gets all the thrills. He speaks +of "blanched cheeks," of the "thrilling suspense," and so on down +the gamut of the shilling shocker. His stuff makes good reading; +there is no doubt of that. The spellbound public likes it, and to +that extent it has fulfilled its mission. Also, the reader +believes it to the letter-why should he not? Only there is this +curious result: he carries away in his mind the impression of +unreality, of a country impossible to be understood and gauged +and savoured by the ordinary human mental equipment. It is +interesting, just as are historical novels, or the copper-riveted +heroes of modern fiction, but it has no real relation with human +life. In the last analysis the inherent untruth of the thing +forces itself on him. He believes, but he does not apprehend; he +acknowledges the fact, but he cannot grasp its human quality. The +affair is interesting, but it is more or less concocted of +pasteboard for his amusement. Thus essential truth asserts its +right. + +All this, you must understand, is probably not a deliberate +attempt to deceive. It is merely the recrudescence under the +stimulus of a brand-new environment of the boyish desire to be a +hero. When a man jumps back into the Pleistocene he digs up some +of his ancestors' cave-qualities. Among these is the desire for +personal adornment. His modern development of taste precludes +skewers in the ears and polished wire around the neck; so he +adorns himself in qualities instead. It is quite an engaging and +diverting trait of character. The attitude of mind it both +presupposes and helps to bring about is too complicated for my +brief analysis. In itself it is no more blameworthy than the +small boy's pretence at Indians in the back yard; and no more +praiseworthy than infantile decoration with feathers. + +In its results, however, we are more concerned. Probably each of +us has his mental picture that passes as a symbol rather than an +idea of the different continents. This is usually a single +picture-a deep river, with forest, hanging snaky vines, +anacondas and monkeys for the east coast of South America, for +example. It is built up in youth by chance reading and chance +pictures, and does as well as a pink place on the map to stand +for a part of the world concerning which we know nothing at all. +As time goes on we extend, expand, and modify this picture in the +light of what knowledge we may acquire. So the reading of many +books modifies and expands our first crude notions of Equatorial +Africa. And the result is, if we read enough of the sort I +describe above, we build the idea of an exciting, dangerous, +extra-human continent, visited by half-real people of the texture +of the historical-fiction hero, who have strange and interesting +adventures which we could not possibly imagine happening to +ourselves. + +This type of book is directly responsible for the second sort. +The author of this is deadly afraid of being thought to brag of +his adventures. He feels constantly on him the amusedly critical +eye of the old-timer. When he comes to describe the first time a +rhino dashed in his direction, he remembers that old hunters, who +have been so charged hundreds of times, may read the book. +Suddenly, in that light, the adventure becomes pitifully +unimportant. He sets down the fact that "we met a rhino that +turned a bit nasty, but after a shot in the shoulder decided to +leave us alone." Throughout he keeps before his mind's eye the +imaginary audience of those who have done. He writes for them, to +please them, to convince them that he is not "swelled head," nor +"cocky," nor "fancies himself," nor thinks he has done, been, or +seen anything wonderful. It is a good, healthy frame of mind to +be in; but it, no more than the other type, can produce books +that leave on the minds of the general public any impression of a +country in relation to a real human being. + +As a matter of fact, the same trouble is at the bottom of both +failures. The adventure writer, half unconsciously perhaps, has +been too much occupied play-acting himself into half-forgotten +boyhood heroics. The more modest man, with even more +self-consciousness, has been thinking of how he is going to +appear in the eyes of the expert. Both have thought of themselves +before their work. This aspect of the matter would probably +vastly astonish the modest writer. + +If, then, one is to formulate an ideal toward which to write, he +might express it exactly in terms of man and environment. Those +readers desiring sheer exploration can get it in any library: +those in search of sheer romantic adventure can purchase plenty +of it at any book-stall. But the majority want something +different from either of these. They want, first of all, to know +what the country is like-not in vague and grandiose "word +paintings," nor in strange and foreign sounding words and +phrases, but in comparison with something they know. What is it +nearest like-Arizona? Surrey? Upper New York? Canada? Mexico? Or +is it totally different from anything, as is the Grand Canyon? +When you look out from your camp-any one camp-how far do you +see, and what do you see?-mountains in the distance, or a screen +of vines or bamboo near hand, or what? When you get up in the +morning, what is the first thing to do? What does a rhino look +like, where he lives, and what did you do the first time one came +at you? I don't want you to tell me as though I were either an +old hunter or an admiring audience, or as though you were afraid +somebody might think you were making too much of the matter. I +want to know how you REALLY felt. Were you scared or nervous? or +did you become cool? Tell me frankly just how it was, so I can +see the thing as happening to a common everyday human being. +Then, even at second-hand and at ten thousand miles distance, I +can enjoy it actually, humanly, even though vicariously, +speculating a bit over my pipe as to how I would have liked it +myself. + +Obviously, to write such a book the author must at the same time +sink his ego and exhibit frankly his personality. The paradox in +this is only apparent. He must forget either to strut or to blush +with diffidence. Neither audience should be forgotten, and neither +should be exclusively addressed. Never should he lose sight of +the wholesome fact that old hunters are to read and to weigh; +never should he for a moment slip into the belief that he is +justified in addressing the expert alone. His attitude should be +that many men know more and have done more than he, but that for +one reason or another these men are not ready to transmit their +knowledge and experience. + +To set down the formulation of an ideal is one thing: to fulfil +it is another. In the following pages I cannot claim a +fulfilment, but only an attempt. The foregoing dissertation must +be considered not as a promise, but as an explanation. No one +knows better than I how limited my African experience is, both in +time and extent, bounded as it is by East Equatorial Africa and a +year. Hundreds of men are better qualified than myself to write +just this book; but unfortunately they will not do it. + + +II. AFRICA + +In looking back on the multitudinous pictures that the word +Africa bids rise in my memory, four stand out more distinctly +than the others. Strangely enough, these are by no means all +pictures of average country-the sort of thing one would describe +as typical. Perhaps, in a way, they symbolize more the spirit of +the country to me, for certainly they represent but a small +minority of its infinitely varied aspects. But since we must make +a start somewhere, and since for some reason these four crowd +most insistently in the recollection it might be well to begin +with them. + +Our camp was pitched under a single large mimosa tree near the +edge of a deep and narrow ravine down which a stream flowed. A +semicircle of low mountains hemmed us in at the distance of +several miles. The other side of the semicircle was occupied by +the upthrow of a low rise blocking off an horizon at its nearest +point but a few hundred yards away. Trees marked the course of the +stream; low scattered bushes alternated with open plain. The +grass grew high. We had to cut it out to make camp. + +Nothing indicated that we were otherwise situated than in a very +pleasant, rather wide grass valley in the embrace of the +mountains. Only a walk of a few hundred yards atop the upthrow of +the low rise revealed the fact that it was in reality the lip of +a bench, and that beyond it the country fell away in sheer cliffs +whose ultimate drop was some fifteen hundred feet. One could sit +atop and dangle his feet over unguessed abysses. + +For a week we had been hunting for greater kudu. Each day Memba +Sasa and I went in one direction, while Mavrouki and Kongoni took +another line. We looked carefully for signs, but found none +fresher than the month before. Plenty of other game made the +country interesting; but we were after a shy and valuable prize, +so dared not shoot lesser things. At last, at the end of the +week, Mavrouki came in with a tale of eight lions seen in the low +scrub across the stream. The kudu business was about finished, as +far as this place went, so we decided to take a look for the +lions. + +We ate by lantern and at the first light were ready to start. But +at that moment, across the slope of the rim a few hundred yards +away, appeared a small group of sing-sing. These are a beautiful +big beast, with widespread horns, proud and wonderful, like +Landseer's stags, and I wanted one of them very much. So I took +the Springfield, and dropped behind the line of some bushes. The +stalk was of the ordinary sort. One has to remain behind cover, +to keep down wind, to make no quick movements. Sometimes this +takes considerable manoeuvring; especially, as now, in the case +of a small band fairly well scattered out for feeding. Often +after one has succeeded in placing them all safely behind the +scattered cover, a straggler will step out into view. Then the +hunter must stop short, must slowly, oh very, very slowly, sink +down out of sight; so slowly, in fact, that he must not seem to +move, but rather to melt imperceptibly away. Then he must take up +his progress at a lower plane of elevation. Perhaps he needs +merely to stoop; or he may crawl on hands and knees; or he may +lie flat and hitch himself forward by his toes, pushing his gun +ahead. If one of the beasts suddenly looks very intently in his +direction, he must freeze into no matter what uncomfortable +position, and so remain an indefinite time. Even a hotel-bred +child to whom you have rashly made advances stares no longer nor +more intently than a buck that cannot make you out. + +I had no great difficulty with this lot, but slipped up quite +successfully to within one hundred and fifty yards. There I +raised my head behind a little bush to look. Three does grazed +nearest me, their coats rough against the chill of early morning. +Up the slope were two more does and two funny, fuzzy babies. An +immature buck occupied the extreme left with three young ladies. +But the big buck, the leader, the boss of the lot, I could not +see anywhere. Of course he must be about, and I craned my neck +cautiously here and there trying to make him out. + +Suddenly, with one accord, all turned and began to trot rapidly +away to the right, their heads high. In the strange manner of +animals, they had received telepathic alarm, and had instantly +obeyed. Then beyond and far to the right I at last saw the beast +I had been looking for. The old villain had been watching me all +the time! + +The little herd in single file made their way rapidly along the +face of the rise. They were headed in the direction of the +stream. Now, I happened to know that at this point the +stream-canyon was bordered by sheer cliffs. Therefore, the +sing-sing must round the hill, and not cross the stream. By +running to the top of the hill I might catch a glimpse of them +somewhere below. So I started on a jog trot, trying to hit the +golden mean of speed that would still leave me breath to shoot. +This was an affair of some nicety in the tall grass. Just before +I reached the actual slope, however, I revised my schedule. The +reason was supplied by a rhino that came grunting to his feet +about seventy yards away. He had not seen me, and he had not +smelled me, but the general disturbance of all these events had +broken into his early morning nap. He looked to me like a person +who is cross before breakfast, so I ducked low and ran around +him. The last I saw of him he was still standing there, quite +disgruntled, and evidently intending to write to the directors +about it. + +Arriving at the top, I looked eagerly down. The cliff fell away +at an impossible angle, but sheer below ran out a narrow bench +fifty yards wide. Around the point of the hill to my right-where +the herd had gone-a game trail dropped steeply to this bench. I +arrived just in time to see the sing-sing, still trotting, file +across the bench and over its edge, on some other invisible game +trail, to continue their descent of the cliff. The big buck +brought up the rear. At the very edge he came to a halt, and +looked back, throwing his head up and his nose out so that the +heavy fur on his neck stood forward like a ruff. It was a last +glimpse of him, so I held my little best, and pulled trigger. + +This happened to be one of those shots I spoke of-which the +perpetrator accepts with a thankful and humble spirit. The +sing-sing leaped high in the air and plunged over the edge of the +bench. I signalled the camp-in plain sight-to come and get the +head and meat, and sat down to wait. And while waiting, I looked +out on a scene that has since been to me one of my four +symbolizations of Africa. + +The morning was dull, with gray clouds through which at wide +intervals streamed broad bands of misty light. Below me the cliff +fell away clear to a gorge in the depths of which flowed a river. +Then the land began to rise, broken, sharp, tumbled, terrible, +tier after tier, gorge after gorge, one twisted range after the +other, across a breathlessly immeasurable distance. The prospect +was full of shadows thrown by the tumult of lava. In those +shadows one imagined stranger abysses. Far down to the right a +long narrow lake inaugurated a flatter, alkali-whitened country +of low cliffs in long straight lines. Across the distances proper +to a dozen horizons the tumbled chaos heaved and fell. The eye +sought rest at the bounds usual to its accustomed world-and went +on. There was no roundness to the earth, no grateful curve to +drop this great fierce country beyond a healing horizon out of +sight. The immensity of primal space was in it, and the +simplicity of primal things-rough, unfinished, full of mystery. +There was no colour. The scene was done in slate gray, darkening +to the opaque where a tiny distant rain squall started; +lightening in the nearer shadows to reveal half-guessed peaks; +brightening unexpectedly into broad short bands of misty gray +light slanting from the gray heavens above to the sombre tortured +immensity beneath. It was such a thing as Gustave Dore might have +imaged to serve as an abiding place for the fierce chaotic spirit of +the African wilderness. + +I sat there for some time hugging my knees, waiting for the men +to come. The tremendous landscape seemed to have been willed to +immobility. The rain squalls forty miles or more away did not +appear to shift their shadows; the rare slanting bands of light +from the clouds were as constant as though they were falling +through cathedral windows. But nearer at hand other things were +forward. The birds, thousands of them, were doing their best to +cheer things up. The roucoulements of doves rose from the bushes +down the face of the cliffs; the bell bird uttered his clear +ringing note; the chime bird gave his celebrated imitation of a +really gentlemanly sixty-horse power touring car hinting you out +of the way with the mellowness of a chimed horn; the bottle bird +poured gallons of guggling essence of happiness from his silver +jug. From the direction of camp, evidently jumped by the boys, a +steinbuck loped gracefully, pausing every few minutes to look +back, his dainty legs tense, his sensitive ears pointed toward +the direction of disturbance. + +And now, along the face of the cliff, I make out the flashing of +much movement, half glimpsed through the bushes. Soon a fine +old-man baboon, his tail arched after the dandified fashion of +the baboon aristocracy stepped out, looked around, and bounded +forward. Other old men followed him, and then the young men, and +a miscellaneous lot of half-grown youngsters. The ladies brought +up the rear, with the babies. These rode their mothers' backs, +clinging desperately while they leaped along, for all the world +like the pathetic monkey "jockeys" one sees strapped to the backs +of big dogs in circuses. When they had approached to within fifty +yards, remarked "hullo!" to them. Instantly they all stopped. +Those in front stood up on their hind legs; those behind +clambered to points of vantage on rocks and the tops of small +bushes: They all took a good long look at me. Then they told me +what they thought about me personally, the fact of my being +there, and the rude way I had startled them. Their remarks were +neither complimentary nor refined. The old men, in especial, got +quite profane, and screamed excited billingsgate. Finally they +all stopped at once, dropped on all fours, and loped away, their +ridiculous long tails curved in a half arc. Then for the first +time I noticed that, under cover of the insults, the women and +children had silently retired. Once more I was left to the +familiar gentle bird calls, and the vast silence of the +wilderness beyond. + +The second picture, also, was a view from a height, but of a +totally different character. It was also, perhaps, more typical +of a greater part of East Equatorial Africa. Four of us were +hunting lions with natives-both wild and tame-and a scratch +pack of dogs. More of that later. We had rummaged around all the +morning without any results; and now at noon had climbed to the +top of a butte to eat lunch and look abroad. + +Our butte ran up a gentle but accelerating slope to a peak of big +rounded rocks and slabs sticking out boldly from the soil of the +hill. We made ourselves comfortable each after his fashion. The +gunbearers leaned against rocks and rolled cigarettes. The +savages squatted on their heels, planting their spears +ceremonially in front of them. One of my friends lay on his back, +resting a huge telescope over his crossed feet. With this he +purposed seeing any lion that moved within ten miles. None of the +rest of us could ever make out anything through the fearsome +weapon. Therefore, relieved from responsibility by the presence +of this Dreadnaught of a 'scope, we loafed and looked about us. +This is what we saw: + +Mountains at our backs, of course-at some distance; then plains +in long low swells like the easy rise and fall of a tropical sea, +wave after wave, and over the edge of the world beyond a distant +horizon. Here and there on this plain, single hills lay becalmed, +like ships at sea; some peaked, some cliffed like buttes, some +long and low like the hulls of battleships. The brown plain +flowed up to wash their bases, liquid as the sea itself, its +tides rising in the coves of the hills, and ebbing in the valleys +between. Near at hand, in the middle distance, far away, these +fleets of the plain sailed, until at last hull-down over the +horizon their topmasts disappeared. Above them sailed too the +phantom fleet of the clouds, shot with light, shining like +silver, airy as racing yachts, yet casting here and there +exaggerated shadows below. + +The sky in Africa is always very wide, greater than any other +skies. Between horizon and horizon is more space than any other +world contains. It is as though the cup of heaven had been +pressed a little flatter; so that while the boundaries have +widened, the zenith, with its flaming sun, has come nearer. And +yet that is not a constant quantity either. I have seen one edge +of the sky raised straight up a few million miles, as though some +one had stuck poles under its corners, so that the western heaven +did not curve cup-wise over to the horizon at all as it did +everywhere else, but rather formed the proscenium of a gigantic +stage. On this stage they had piled great heaps of saffron yellow +clouds, and struck shafts of yellow light, and filled the spaces +with the lurid portent of a storm-while the twenty thousand foot +mountains below, crouched whipped and insignificant to the earth. + +We sat atop our butte for an hour while H. looked through his +'scope. After the soft silent immensity of the earth, running +away to infinity, with its low waves, and its scattered fleet of +hills, it was with difficulty that we brought our gaze back to +details and to things near at hand. Directly below us we could +make out many different-hued specks. Looking closely, we could +see that those specks were game animals. They fed here and there +in bands of from ten to two hundred, with valleys and hills +between. Within the radius of the eye they moved, nowhere crowded +in big herds, but everywhere present. A band of zebras grazed the +side of one of the earth waves, a group of gazelles walked on the +skyline, a herd of kongoni rested in the hollow between. On the +next rise was a similar grouping; across the valley a new +variation. As far as the eye could strain its powers it could +make out more and ever more beasts. I took up my field glasses, +and brought them all to within a sixth of the distance. After +amusing myself for some time in watching them, I swept the +glasses farther on. Still the same animals grazing on the hills +and in the hollows. I continued to look, and to look again, until +even the powerful prismatic glasses failed to show things big +enough to distinguish. At the limit of extreme vision I could +still make out game, and yet more game. And as I took my glasses +from my eyes, and realized how small a portion of this great +land-sea I had been able to examine; as I looked away to the +ship-hills hull-down over the horizon, and realized that over all +that extent fed the Game; the ever-new wonder of Africa for the +hundredth time filled my mind-the teeming fecundity of her bosom. + +"Look here," said H. without removing his eye from the 'scope, +"just beyond the edge of that shadow to the left of the bushes in +the donga-I've been watching them ten minutes, and I can't make +'em out yet. They're either hyenas acting mighty queer, or else +two lionesses." + +We snatched our glasses and concentrated on that important +detail. + +To catch the third experience you must have journeyed with us +across the "Thirst," as the natives picturesquely name the +waterless tract of two days and a half. Our very start had been +delayed by a breakage of some Dutch-sounding essential to our ox +wagon, caused by the confusion of a night attack by lions: almost +every night we had lain awake as long as we could to enjoy the +deep-breathed grumbling or the vibrating roars of these beasts. +Now at last, having pushed through the dry country to the river +in the great plain, we were able to take breath from our mad +hurry, and to give our attention to affairs beyond the limits of +mere expediency. One of these was getting Billy a shot at a lion. + +Billy had never before wanted to shoot anything except a python. +Why a python we could not quite fathom. Personally, I think she +had some vague idea of getting even for that Garden of Eden +affair. But lately, pythons proving scarcer than in that favoured +locality, she had switched to a lion. She wanted, she said, to +give the skin to her sister. In vain we pointed out that a zebra +hide was very decorative, that lions go to absurd lengths in +retaining possession of their own skins, and other equally +convincing facts. It must be a lion or nothing; so naturally we +had to make a try. + +There are several ways of getting lions, only one of which is at +all likely to afford a steady pot shot to a very small person +trying to manipulate an over-size gun. That is to lay out a kill. +The idea is to catch the lion at it in the early morning before +he has departed for home. The best kill is a zebra: first, +because lions like zebra; second, because zebra are fairly large; +third, because zebra are very numerous. + +Accordingly, after we had pitched camp just within a fringe of +mimosa trees and of red-flowering aloes near the river; had eaten +lunch, smoked a pipe and issued necessary orders to the men, C. +and I set about the serious work of getting an appropriate bait +in an appropriate place. + +The plains stretched straight away from the river bank to some +indefinite and unknown distance to the south. A low range of +mountains lay blue to the left; and a mantle of scrub thornbush +closed the view to the right. This did not imply that we could +see far straight ahead, for the surface of the plain rose slowly +to the top of a swell about two miles away. Beyond it reared a +single butte peak at four or five times that distance. + +We stepped from the fringe of red aloes and squinted through the +dancing heat shimmer. Near the limit of vision showed a very +faint glimmering whitish streak. A newcomer to Africa would not +have looked at it twice: nevertheless, it could be nothing but +zebra. These gaudily marked beasts take queer aspects even on an +open plain. Most often they show pure white; sometimes a jet +black; only when within a few hundred yards does one distinguish +the stripes. Almost always they are very easily made out. Only +when very distant and in heat shimmer, or in certain half lights +of evening, does their so-called "protective colouration" seem to +be in working order, and even then they are always quite visible +to the least expert hunter's scrutiny. + +It is not difficult to kill a zebra, though sometimes it has to +be done at a fairly long range. If all you want is meat for the +porters, the matter is simple enough. But when you require bait +for a lion, that; is another affair entirely. In the first place, +you must be able to stalk within a hundred yards of your kill +without being seen; in the second place, you must provide two or +three good lying-down places for your prospective trophy within +fifteen yards of the carcass-and no more than two or three; in +the third place, you must judge the direction of the probable +morning wind, and must be able to approach from leeward. It is +evidently pretty good luck to find an accommodating zebra in just +such a spot. It is a matter of still greater nicety to drop him +absolutely in his tracks. In a case of porters' meat it does not +make any particular difference if he runs a hundred yards before +he dies. With lion bait even fifty yards makes all the difference +in the world. + +C. and I talked it over and resolved to press Scallywattamus into +service. Scallywattamus is a small white mule who is firmly +convinced that each and every bush in Africa conceals a +mule-eating rhinoceros, and who does not intend to be one of the +number so eaten. But we had noticed that at times zebra would be +so struck with the strange sight of Scallywattamus carrying a +man, that they would let us get quite close. C. was to ride +Scallywattamus while I trudged along under his lee ready to +shoot. + +We set out through the heat shimmer, gradually rising as the +plain slanted. Imperceptibly the camp and the trees marking the +river's course fell below us and into the heat haze. In the +distance, close to the stream, we made out a blurred, brown-red +solid mass which we knew for Masai cattle. Various little +Thompson's gazelles skipped away to the left waggling their tails +vigorously and continuously as Nature long since commanded +"Tommies" to do. The heat haze steadied around the dim white +line, so we could make out the individual animals. There were +plenty of them, dozing in the sun. A single tiny treelet broke +the plain just at the skyline of the rise. C. and I talked +low-voiced as we went along. We agreed that the tree was an +excellent landmark to come to, that the little rise afforded +proper cover, and that in the morning the wind would in all +likelihood blow toward the river. There were perhaps twenty zebra +near enough to the chosen spot. Any of them would do. + +But the zebra did not give a hoot for Scallywattamus. At five +hundred yards three or four of them awoke with a start, stared at +us a minute, and moved slowly away. They told all the zebra they +happened upon that the three idiots approaching were at once +uninteresting and dangerous. At four hundred and fifty yards a +half dozen more made off at a trot. At three hundred and fifty +yards the rest plunged away at a canter-all but one. He remained +to stare, but his tail was up, and we knew he only stayed because +he knew he could easily catch up in the next twenty seconds. + +The chance was very slim of delivering a knockout at that +distance, but we badly needed meat, anyway, after our march +through the Thirst, so I tried him. We heard the well-known plunk +of the bullet, but down went his head, up went his heels, and +away went he. We watched him in vast disgust. He cavorted out +into a bare open space without cover of any sort, and then +flopped over. I thought I caught a fleeting grin of delight on +Mavrouki's face; but he knew enough instantly to conceal his +satisfaction over sure meat. + +There were now no zebra anywhere near; but since nobody ever +thinks of omitting any chances in Africa, I sneaked up to the +tree and took a perfunctory look. There stood another, +providentially absent-minded, zebra! + +We got that one. Everybody was now happy. The boys raced over to +the first kill, which soon took its dismembered way toward camp. +C. and I carefully organized our plan of campaign. We fixed in +our memories the exact location of each and every bush; we +determined compass direction from camp, and any other bearings +likely to prove useful in finding so small a spot in the dark. +Then we left a boy to keep carrion birds off until sunset; and +returned home. + +We were out in the morning before even the first sign of dawn. +Billy rode her little mule, C. and I went afoot, Memba Sasa +accompanied us because he could see whole lions where even C.'s +trained eye could not make out an ear, and the syce went along to +take care of the mule. The heavens were ablaze with the thronging +stars of the tropics, so we found we could make out the skyline +of the distant butte over the rise of the plains. The earth +itself was a pool of absolute blackness. We could not see where +we were placing our feet, and we were continually bringing up +suddenly to walk around an unexpected aloe or thornbush. The +night was quite still, but every once in a while from the +blackness came rustlings, scamperings, low calls, and once or +twice the startled barking of zebra very near at hand. The latter +sounded as ridiculous as ever. It is one of the many +incongruities of African life that Nature should have given so +large and so impressive a creature the petulant yapping of an +exasperated Pomeranian lap dog. At the end of three quarters of +an hour of more or less stumbling progress, we made out against +the sky the twisted treelet that served as our landmark. Billy +dismounted, turned the mule over to the syce, and we crept slowly +forward until within a guessed two or three hundred yards of our +kill. + +Nothing remained now but to wait for the daylight. It had already +begun to show. Over behind the distant mountains some one was +kindling the fires, and the stars were flickering out. The +splendid ferocity of the African sunrise was at hand. Long bands +of slate dark clouds lay close along the horizon, and behind them +glowed a heart of fire, as on a small scale the lamplight glows +through a metal-worked shade. On either side the sky was pale +green-blue, translucent and pure, deep as infinity itself. The +earth was still black, and the top of the rise near at hand was +clear edged. On that edge, and by a strange chance accurately in +the centre of illumination, stood the uncouth massive form of a +shaggy wildebeeste, his head raised, staring to the east. He did +not move; nothing of that fire and black world moved; only +instant by instant it changed, swelling in glory toward some +climax until one expected at any moment a fanfare of trumpets, +the burst of triumphant culmination. + +Then very far down in the distance a lion roared. The +wildebeeste, without moving, bellowed back an answer or a +defiance. Down in the hollow an ostrich boomed. Zebra barked, and +several birds chirped strongly. The tension was breaking not in +the expected fanfare and burst of triumphal music, but in a +manner instantly felt to be more fitting to what was indeed a +wonder, but a daily wonder for all that. At one and the same +instant the rim of the sun appeared and the wildebeeste, after +the sudden habit of his kind, made up his mind to go. He dropped +his head and came thundering down past us at full speed. Straight +to the west he headed, and so disappeared. We could hear the beat +of his hoofs dying into the distance. He had gone like a Warder +of the Morning whose task was finished. On the knife-edged +skyline appeared the silhouette of slim-legged little Tommies, +flirting their rails, sniffing at the dewy grass, dainty, +slender, confiding, the open-day antithesis of the tremendous and +awesome lord of the darkness that had roared its way to its lair, +and to the massive shaggy herald of morning that had thundered +down to the west. + + + +III. THE CENTRAL PLATEAU + +Now is required a special quality of the imagination, not in +myself, but in my readers, for it becomes necessary for them to +grasp the logic of a whole country in one mental effort. The +difficulties to me are very real. If I am to tell you it all in +detail, your mind becomes confused to the point of mingling the +ingredients of the description. The resultant mental picture is a +composite; it mixes localities wide apart; it comes out, like the +snake-creeper-swamp-forest thing of grammar-school South America, +an unreal and deceitful impression. If, on the other hand, I try +to give you a bird's-eye view-saying, here is plain, and there +follows upland, and yonder succeed mountains and hills-you lose +the sense of breadth and space and the toil of many days. The +feeling of onward outward extending distance is gone; and that +impression so indispensable to finite understanding-"here am I, +and what is beyond is to be measured by the length of my legs and +the toil of my days." You will not stop long enough on my plains +to realize their physical extent nor their influence on the human +soul. If I mention them in a sentence, you dismiss them in a +thought. And that is something the plains themselves refuse to +permit you to do. Yet sometimes one must become a guide-book, and +bespeak his reader's imagination. + +The country, then, wherein we travelled begins at the sea. Along +the coast stretches a low rolling country of steaming tropics, +grown with cocoanuts, bananas, mangoes, and populated by a happy, +half-naked race of the Swahilis. Leaving the coast, the country +rises through hills. These hills are at first fertile and green +and wooded. Later they turn into an almost unbroken plateau of +thorn scrub, cruel, monotonous, almost impenetrable. Fix thorn +scrub in your mind, with rhino trails, and occasional openings +for game, and a few rivers flowing through palms and narrow +jungle strips; fix it in your mind until your mind is filled with +it, until you are convinced that nothing else can exist in the +world but more and more of the monotonous, terrible, dry, +onstretching desert of thorn. + +Then pass through this to the top of the hills inland, and +journey over these hills to the highland plains. + +Now sense and appreciate these wide seas of and the hills and +ranges of mountains rising from them, and their infinite +diversity of country-their rivers marked by ribbons of jungle, +their scattered-bush and their thick-bush areas, their grass +expanses, and their great distances extending far over +exceedingly wide horizons. Realize how many weary hours you must +travel to gain the nearest butte, what days of toil the view from +its top will disclose. Savour the fact that you can spend months +in its veriest corner without exhausting its possibilities. Then, +and not until then, raise your eyes to the low rising transverse +range that bands it to the west as the thorn desert bands it to +the east. + +And on these ranges are the forests, the great bewildering +forests. In what looks like a grove lying athwart a little hill +you can lose yourself for days. Here dwell millions of savages in +an apparently untouched wilderness. Here rises a snow mountain on +the equator. Here are tangles and labyrinths, great bamboo +forests lost in folds of the mightiest hills. Here are the +elephants. Here are the swinging vines, the jungle itself. + +Yet finally it breaks. We come out on the edge of things and look +down on a great gash in the earth. It is like a sunken kingdom in +itself, miles wide, with its own mountain ranges, its own rivers, +its own landscape features. Only on either side of it rise the +escarpments which are the true level of the plateau. One can +spend two months in this valley, too, and in the countries south +to which it leads. And on its farther side are the high plateau +plains again, or the forests, or the desert, or the great lakes +that lie at the source of the Nile. + +So now, perhaps, we are a little prepared to go ahead. The +guide-book work is finished for good and all. There is the +steaming hot low coast belt, and the hot dry thorn desert belt, +and the varied immense plains, and the high mountain belt of the +forests, and again the variegated wide country of the Rift Valley +and the high plateau. To attempt to tell you seriatim and in +detail just what they are like is the task of an encyclopaedist. +Perhaps more indirectly you may be able to fill in the picture of +the country, the people, and the beasts. + + + +IV. THE FIRST CAMP + +Our very first start into the new country was made when we piled +out from the little train standing patiently awaiting the good +pleasure of our descent. That feature strikes me with ever new +wonder-the accommodating way trains of the Uganda Railway have +of waiting for you. One day, at a little wayside station, C. and +I were idly exchanging remarks with the only white man in sight, +killing time until the engine should whistle to a resumption of +the journey. The guard lingered about just out of earshot. At the +end of five minutes C. happened to catch his eye, whereupon he +ventured to approach. + +"When you have finished your conversation," said he politely, "we +are all ready to go on." + +On the morning in question there were a lot of us to +disembark-one hundred and twenty-two, to be exact-of which four +were white. We were not yet acquainted with our men, nor yet with +our stores, nor with the methods of our travel. The train went +off and left us in the middle of a high plateau, with low ridges +running across it, and mountains in the distance. Men were +squabbling earnestly for the most convenient loads to carry, and +as fast as they had gained undisputed possession, they marked the +loads with some private sign of their own. M'ganga, the headman, +tall, fierce, big-framed and bony, clad in fez, a long black +overcoat, blue puttees and boots, stood stiff as a ramrod, +extended a rigid right arm and rattled off orders in a high +dynamic voice. In his left hand he clasped a bulgy umbrella, the +badge of his dignity and the symbol of his authority. The four +askaris, big men too, with masterful high-cheekboned +countenances, rushed here and there seeing that the orders were +carried out. Expostulations, laughter, the sound of quarrelling +rose and fell. Never could the combined volume of it all override +the firecracker stream of M'ganga's eloquence. + +We had nothing to do with it all, but stood a little dazed, +staring at the novel scene. Our men were of many tribes, each +with its own cast of features, its own notions of what befitted +man's performance of his duties here below. They stuck together +each in its clan. A fine free individualism of personal adornment +characterized them. Every man dressed for his own satisfaction +solely. They hung all sorts of things in the distended lobes of +their ears. One had succeeded in inserting a fine big glittering +tobacco tin. Others had invented elaborate topiary designs in +their hair, shaving their heads so as to leave strange tufts, +patches, crescents on the most unexpected places. Of the +intricacy of these designs they seemed absurdly proud. Various +sorts of treasure trove hung from them-a bunch of keys to which +there were no locks, discarded hunting knives, tips of antelope +horns, discharged brass cartridges, a hundred and one valueless +trifles plucked proudly from the rubbish heap. They were all +clothed. We had supplied each with a red blanket, a blue jersey, +and a water bottle. The blankets they were twisting most +ingeniously into turbans. Beside these they sported a great +variety of garments. Shooting coats that had seen better days, a +dozen shabby overcoats-worn proudly through the hottest +noons-raggety breeches and trousers made by some London tailor, +queer baggy homemades of the same persuasion, or quite simply the +square of cotton cloth arranged somewhat like a short tight +skirt, or nothing at all as the man's taste ran. They were many +of them amusing enough; but somehow they did not look entirely +farcical and ridiculous, like our negroes putting on airs. All +these things were worn with a simplicity of quiet confidence in +their entire fitness. And beneath the red blanket turbans the +half-wild savage faces peered out. + +Now Mahomet approached. Mahomet was my personal boy. He was a +Somali from the Northwest coast, dusky brown, with the regular +clear-cut features of a Greek marble god. His dress was of neat +khaki, and he looked down on savages; but, also, as with all the +dark-skinned races, up to his white master. Mahomet was with me +during all my African stay, and tested out nobly. As yet, of +course, I did not know him. + +"Chakula taiari," said he. + +That is Swahili. It means literally "food is ready." After one +has hunted in Africa for a few months, it means also "paradise is +opened," "grief is at an end," "joy and thanksgiving are now in +order," and similar affairs. Those two words are never forgotten, +and the veriest beginner in Swahili can recognize them without +the slightest effort. + +We followed Mahomet. Somehow, without orders, in all this +confusion, the personal staff had been quietly and efficiently +busy. Drawn a little to one side stood a table with four chairs. +The table was covered with a white cloth, and was set with a +beautiful white enamel service. We took our places. Behind each +chair straight as a ramrod stood a neat khaki-clad boy. They +brought us food, and presented it properly on the left side, +waiting like well-trained butlers. We might have been in a London +restaurant. As three of us were Americans, we felt a trifle +dazed. The porters, having finished the distribution of their +loads, squatted on their heels and watched us respectfully. + +And then, not two hundred yards away, four ostriches paced slowly +across the track, paying not the slightest attention to us-our +first real wild ostriches, scornful of oranges, careless of +tourists, and rightful guardians of their own snowy plumes. The +passage of these four solemn birds seemed somehow to lend this +strange open-air meal an exotic flavour. We were indeed in +Africa; and the ostriches helped us to realize it. + +We finished breakfast and arose from our chairs. Instantly a half +dozen men sprang forward. Before our amazed eyes the table +service, the chairs and the table itself disappeared into neat +packages. M'ganga arose to his feet. + +"Bandika!" he cried. + +The askaris rushed here and there actively. + +"Bandika! bandika! bandika!" they cried repeatedly. + +The men sprang into activity. A struggle heaved the varicoloured +multitude-and, lo! each man stood upright, his load balanced on +his head. At the same moment the syces led up our horses, mounted +and headed across the little plain whence had come the four +ostriches. Our African journey had definitely begun. + +Behind us, all abreast marched the four gunbearers; then the four +syces; then the safari single file, an askari at the head bearing +proudly his ancient musket and our banner, other askaris +flanking, M'ganga bringing up the rear with his mighty umbrella +and an unsuspected rhinoceros-hide whip. The tent boys and the +cook scattered along the flank anywhere, as befitted the free and +independent who had nothing to do with the serious business of +marching. A measured sound of drumming followed the beating of +loads with a hundred sticks; a wild, weird chanting burst from +the ranks and died down again as one or another individual or +group felt moved to song. One lot had a formal chant and response. +Their leader, in a high falsetto, said something like + +"Kuna koma kuno," + +and all his tribesmen would follow with a single word in a deep +gruff tone + +"Za-la-nee!" + +All of which undoubtedly helped immensely. + +The country was a bully country, but somehow it did not look like +Africa. That is to say, it looked altogether too much like any +amount of country at home. There was nothing strange and exotic +about it. We crossed a little plain, and up over a small hill, +down into a shallow canyon that seemed to be wooded with live +oaks, across a grass valley or so, and around a grass hill. Then +we went into camp at the edge of another grass valley, by a +stream across which rose some ordinary low cliffs. + +That is the disconcerting thing about a whole lot of this +country-it is so much like home. Of course, there are many wide +districts exotic enough in all conscience-the jungle beds of the +rivers, the bamboo forests, the great tangled forests themselves, +the banana groves down the aisles of which dance savages with +shields-but so very much of it is familiar. One needs only +church spires and a red-roofed village or so to imagine one's +self in Surrey. There is any amount of country like Arizona, and +more like the uplands of Wyoming, and a lot of it resembling the +smaller landscapes of New England. The prospects of the whole +world are there, so that somewhere every wanderer can find the +countryside of his own home repeated. And, by the same token, +that is exactly what makes a good deal of it so startling. When a +man sees a file of spear-armed savages, or a pair of snorty old +rhinos, step out into what has seemed practically his own back +yard home, he is even more startled than if he had encountered +them in quite strange surroundings. + +We rode into the grass meadow and picked camp site. The men +trailed in and dumped down their loads in a row. + +At a signal they set to work. A dozen to each tent got them up in +a jiffy. A long file brought firewood from the stream bed. Others +carried water, stones for the cook, a dozen other matters. The +tent boys rescued our boxes; they put together the cots and made +the beds, even before the tents were raised from the ground. +Within an incredibly short space of time the three green tents +were up and arranged, each with its bed made, its mosquito bar +hung, its personal box open, its folding washstand ready with +towels and soap, the table and chairs unlimbered. At a discreet +distance flickered the cook campfire, and at a still discreeter +distance the little tents of the men gleamed pure white against +the green of the high grass. + + + +V. MEMBA SASA + +I wish I could plunge you at once into the excitements of big +game in Africa, but I cannot truthfully do so. To be sure, we +went hunting that afternoon, up over the low cliffs, and we saw +several of a very lively little animal known as the Chandler's +reedbuck. This was not supposed to be a game country, and that +was all we did see. At these we shot several +times-disgracefully. In fact, for several days we could not +shoot at all, at any range, nor at anything. It was very sad, and +very aggravating. Afterward we found that this is an invariable +experience to the newcomer. The light is new, the air is +different, the sizes of the game are deceiving. Nobody can at +first hit anything. At the end of five days we suddenly began to +shoot our normal gait. Why, I do not know. + +But in this afternoon tramp around the low cliffs after the +elusive reedbuck, I for the first time became acquainted with a +man who developed into a real friend. + +His name is Memba Sasa. Memba Sasa are two Swahili words meaning +"now a crocodile." Subsequently, after I had learned to talk +Swahili, I tried to find out what he was formerly, before he was +a crocodile, but did not succeed. + +He was of the tribe of the Monumwezi, of medium height, compactly +and sturdily built, carried himself very erect, and moved with a +concentrated and vigorous purposefulness. His countenance might +be described as pleasing but not handsome, of a dark chocolate +brown, with the broad nose of the negro, but with a firm mouth, +high cheekbones, and a frowning intentness of brow that was very +fine. When you talked to him he looked you straight in the eye. +His own eyes were shaded by long, soft, curling lashes behind +which they looked steadily and gravely-sometimes fiercely-on +the world. He rarely smiled-never merely in understanding or for +politeness' sake-and never laughed unless there was something +really amusing. Then he chuckled from deep in his chest, the most +contagious laughter you can imagine. Often we, at the other end +of the camp, have laughed in sympathy, just at the sound of that +deep and hearty ho! ho! ho! of Memba Sasa. Even at something +genuinely amusing he never laughed much, nor without a very +definite restraint. In fact, about him was no slackness, no +sprawling abandon of the native in relaxation; but always a taut +efficiency and a never-failing self-respect. + +Naturally, behind such a fixed moral fibre must always be some +moral idea. When a man lives up to a real, not a pompous, dignity +some ideal must inform it. Memba Sasa's ideal was that of the +Hunter. + +He was a gunbearer; and he considered that a good gunbearer stood +quite a few notches above any other human being, save always the +white man, of course. And even among the latter Memba Sasa made +great differences. These differences he kept to himself, and +treated all with equal respect. Nevertheless, they existed, and +Memba Sasa very well knew that fact. In the white world were two +classes of masters: those who hunted well, and those who were +considered by them as their friends and equals. Why they should +be so considered Memba Sasa did not know, but he trusted the +Hunter's judgment. These were the bwanas, or masters. All the +rest were merely mazungos, or, "white men." To their faces he +called them bwana, but in his heart he considered them not. + +Observe, I say those who hunted well. Memba Sasa, in his +profession as gunbearer, had to accompany those who hunted badly. +In them he took no pride; from them he held aloof in spirit; but +for them he did his conscientious best, upheld by the dignity of +his profession. + +For to Mamba Sasa that profession was the proudest to which a +black man could aspire. He prided himself on mastering its every +detail, in accomplishing its every duty minutely and exactly. The +major virtues of a gunbearer are not to be despised by anybody; +for they comprise great physical courage, endurance, and loyalty: +the accomplishments of a gunbearer are worthy of a man's best +faculties, for they include the ability to see and track game, to +take and prepare properly any sort of a trophy, field taxidermy, +butchering game meat, wood and plainscraft, the knowledge of how +properly to care for firearms in all sorts of circumstances, and +a half hundred other like minutiae. Memba Sasa knew these things, +and he performed them with the artist's love for details; and his +keen eyes were always spying for new ways. + +At a certain time I shot an egret, and prepared to take the skin. +Memba Sasa asked if he might watch me do it. Two months later, +having killed a really gaudy peacocklike member of the guinea +fowl tribe, I handed it over to him with instructions to take off +the breast feathers before giving it to the cook. In a half hour +he brought me the complete skin, I examined it carefully, and +found it to be well done in every respect. Now in skinning a bird +there are a number of delicate and unusual operations, such as +stripping the primary quills from the bone, cutting the ear +cover, and the like. I had explained none of them; and yet Memba +Sasa, unassisted, had grasped their method from a single +demonstration and had remembered them all two months later! C. +had a trick in making the second skin incision of a trophy head +that had the effect of giving a better purchase to the knife. Its +exact description would be out of place here, but it actually +consisted merely in inserting the point of the knife two inches +away from the place it is ordinarily inserted. One day we noticed +that Memba Sasa was making his incisions in that manner. I went +to Africa fully determined to care for my own rifle. The modern +high-velocity gun needs rather especial treatment; mere wiping +out will not do. I found that Memba Sasa already knew all about +boiling water, and the necessity for having it really boiling, +about subsequent metal sweating, and all the rest. After watching +him at work I concluded, rightly, that he would do a lot better +job than I. + +To the new employer Memba Sasa maintained an attitude of strict +professional loyalty. His personal respect was upheld by the +necessity of every man to do his job in the world. Memba Sasa did +his. He cleaned the rifles; he saw that everything was in order +for the day's march; he was at my elbow all ways with more +cartridges and the spare rifle; he trailed and looked +conscientiously. In his attitude was the stolidity of the wooden +Indian. No action of mine, no joke on the part of his companions, +no circumstance in the varying fortunes of the field gained from +him the faintest flicker of either approval, disapproval, or +interest. When we returned to camp he deposited my water bottle +and camera, seized the cleaning implements, and departed to his +own campfire. In the field he pointed out game that I did not +see, and waited imperturbably the result of my shot. + +As I before stated, the result of that shot for the first five +days was very apt to be nil. This, at the time, puzzled and +grieved me a lot. Occasionally I looked at Memba Sasa to catch +some sign of sympathy, disgust, contempt, or-rarely-triumph at a +lucky shot. Nothing. He gently but firmly took away my rifle, +reloaded it, and handed it back; then waited respectfully for my +next move. He knew no English, and I no Swahili. + +But as time went on this attitude changed. I was armed with the +new Springfield rifle, a weapon with 2,700 feet velocity, and +with a marvellously flat trajectory. This commanding advantage, +combined with a very long familiarity with firearms, enabled me +to do some fairish shooting, after the strangeness of these new +conditions had been mastered. Memba Sasa began to take a dawning +interest in me as a possible source of pride. We began to develop +between us a means of communication. I set myself deliberately to +learn his language, and after he had cautiously determined that I +really meant it, he took the greatest pains-always gravely-to +teach me. A more human feeling sprang up between us. + +But we had still the final test to undergo-that of danger and +the tight corner. + +In close quarters the gunbearer has the hardest job in the world. +I have the most profound respect for his absolute courage. Even +to a man armed and privileged to shoot and defend himself, a +charging lion is an awesome thing, requiring a certain amount of +coolness and resolution to face effectively. Think of the +gunbearer at his elbow, depending not on himself but on the +courage and coolness of another. He cannot do one solitary thing +to defend himself. To bolt for the safety of a tree is to beg the +question completely, to brand himself as a shenzi forever; to +fire a gun in any circumstances is to beg the question also, for +the white man must be able to depend absolutely on his second gun +in an emergency. Those things are outside consideration, even, +of any respectable gunbearer. In addition, he must keep cool. He +must see clearly in the thickest excitement; must be ready +unobtrusively to pass up the second gun in the position most +convenient for immediate use, to seize the other and to perform +the finicky task of reloading correctly while some rampageous +beast is raising particular thunder a few yards away. All this in +absolute dependence on the ability of his bwana to deal with the +situation. I can confess very truly that once or twice that +little unobtrusive touch of Memba Sasa crouched close to my elbow +steadied me with the thought of how little right I-with a rifle +in my hand-had to be scared. And the best compliment I ever +received I overheard by chance. I had wounded a lion when out by +myself, and had returned to camp for a heavier rifle and for +Memba Sasa to do the trailing. From my tent I overheard the +following conversation between Memba Sasa and the cook: + +"The grass is high," said the cook. "Are you not afraid to go +after a wounded lion with only one white man?" + +"My one white man is enough," replied Memba Sasa. + +It is a quality of courage that I must confess would be quite +beyond me-to depend entirely on the other fellow, and not at all +on myself. This courage is always remarkable to me, even in the +case of the gunbearer who knows all about the man whose heels he +follows. But consider that of the gunbearer's first experience +with a stranger. The former has no idea of how the white man will +act; whether he will get nervous, get actually panicky, lose his +shooting ability, and generally mess things up. Nevertheless, he +follows his master in, and he stands by. If the hunter fails, the +gunbearer will probably die. To me it is rather fine: for he does +it, not from the personal affection and loyalty which will carry +men far, but from a sheer sense of duty and pride of caste. The +quiet pride of the really good men, like Memba Sasa, is easy to +understand. + +And the records are full of stories of the white man who has not +made good: of the coward who bolts, leaving his black man to take +the brunt of it, or who sticks but loses his head. Each new +employer must be very closely and interestedly scrutinized. In +the light of subsequent experience, I can no longer wonder at +Memba Sasa's first detached and impersonal attitude. + +As time went on, however, and we grew to know each other better, +this attitude entirely changed. At first the change consisted +merely in dropping the disinterested pose as respects game. For +it was a pose. Memba Sasa was most keenly interested in game +whenever it was an object of pursuit. It did not matter how +common the particular species might be: if we wanted it, Memba +Sasa would look upon it with eager ferocity; and if we did not +want it, he paid no attention to it at all. When we started in +the morning, or in the relaxation of our return at night, I would +mention casually a few of the things that might prove acceptable. + +"To-morrow we want kongoni for boys' meat, or zebra; and some +meat for masters-Tommy, impala, oribi," and Memba Sasa knew as +well as I did what we needed to fill out our trophy collection. +When he caught sight of one of these animals his whole +countenance changed. The lines of his face set, his lips drew +back from his teeth, his eyes fairly darted fire in the fixity of +their gaze. He was like a fine pointer dog on birds, or like the +splendid savage he was at heart. + +"M'palla!" he hissed; and then after a second, in a restrained +fierce voice, "Na-ona? Do you see?" + +If I did not see he pointed cautiously. His own eyes never left +the beast. Rarely he stayed put while I made the stalk. More +often he glided like a snake at my heels. If the bullet hit, +Memba Sasa always exhaled a grunt of satisfaction-"hah!"-in +which triumph and satisfaction mingled with a faint derision at +the unfortunate beast. In case of a trophy he squatted anxiously +at the animal's head while I took my measurements, assisting very +intelligently with the tape line. When I had finished, he always +looked up at me with wrinkled brow. + +"Footie n'gapi?" he inquired. This means literally, "How many +feet?", footie being his euphemistic invention of a word for the +tape. I would tell him how many "footie" and how many "inchie" +the measurement proved to be. From the depths of his wonderful +memory he would dig up the measurements of another beast of the +same sort I had killed months back, but which he had remembered +accurately from a single hearing. + +The shooting of a beast he always detailed to his few cronies in +camp: the other gunbearers, and one or two from his own tribe. He +always used the first person plural, "we" did so and so; and took +an inordinate pride in making out his bwana as being an +altogether superior person to any of the other gunbearer's +bwanas. Over a miss he always looked sad; but with a dignified +sadness as though we had met with undeserved misfortune sent by +malignant gods. If there were any possible alleviating +explanation, Memba Sasa made the most of it, provided our fiasco +was witnessed. If we were alone in our disgrace, he buried the +incident fathoms deep. He took an inordinate pride in our using +the minimum number of cartridges, and would explain to me in a +loud tone of voice that we had cartridges enough in the belt. +When we had not cartridges enough, he would sneak around after +dark to get some more. At times he would even surreptitiously +"lift" a few from B.'s gunbearer! + +When in camp, with his "cazi" finished, Memba Sasa did fancy +work! The picture of this powerful half-savage, his fierce brows +bent over a tiny piece of linen, his strong fingers fussing with +little stitches, will always appeal to my sense of the +incongruous. Through a piece of linen he punched holes with a +porcupine quill. Then he "buttonhole" stitched the holes, and +embroidered patterns between them with fine white thread. The +result was an openwork pattern heavily encrusted with beautiful +fine embroidery. It was most astounding stuff, such as you would +expect from a French convent, perhaps, but never from an African +savage. He did a circular piece and a long narrow piece. They +took him three months to finish, and then he sewed them together +to form a skull cap. Billy, entranced with the lacelike delicacy +of the work, promptly captured it; whereupon Memba Sasa +philosophically started another. + +By this time he had identified himself with my fortunes. We had +become a firm whose business it was to carry out the affairs of a +single personality-me. Memba Sasa, among other things, undertook +the dignity. When I walked through a crowd, Memba Sasa zealously +kicked everybody out of my royal path. When I started to issue a +command, Memba Sasa finished it and amplified it and put a +snapper on it. When I came into camp, Memba Sasa saw to it +personally that my tent went up promptly and properly, although +that was really not part of his "cazi" at all. And when somewhere +beyond my ken some miserable boy had committed a crime, I never +remained long in ignorance of that fact. + +Perhaps I happened to be sitting in my folding chair idly smoking +a pipe and reading a book. Across the open places of the camp +would stride Memba Sasa, very erect, very rigid, moving in short +indignant jerks, his eye flashing fire. Behind him would sneak a +very hang-dog boy. Memba Sasa marched straight up to me, faced +right, and drew one side, his silence sparkling with honest +indignation. + +"Just look at THAT!" his attitude seemed to say, "Could you +believe such human depravity possible? And against OUR authority?" + +He always stood, quite rigid, waiting for me to speak. + +"Well, Memba Sasa?" I would inquire, after I had enjoyed the show +a little. + +In a few restrained words he put the case before me, always +briefly, always with a scornful dignity. This shenzi has done +so-and-so. + +We will suppose the case fairly serious. I listened to the man's +story, if necessary called a few witnesses, delivered judgment. +All the while Memba Sasa stood at rigid attention, fairly +bristling virtue, like the good dog standing by at the punishment +of the bad dogs. And in his attitude was a subtle triumph, as one +would say: "You see! Fool with my bwana, will you! Just let +anybody try to get funny with US!" Judgment pronounced-we have +supposed the case serious, you remember-Memba Sasa himself +applied the lash. I think he really enjoyed that; but it was a +restrained joy. The whip descended deliberately, without +excitement. + +The man's devotion in unusual circumstances was beyond praise. +Danger or excitement incite a sort of loyalty in any good man; +but humdrum, disagreeable difficulty is a different matter. + +One day we marched over a country of thorn-scrub desert. Since +two days we had been cut loose from water, and had been depending +on a small amount carried in zinc drums. Now our only reasons for +faring were a conical hill, over the horizon, and the knowledge +of a river somewhere beyond. How far beyond, or in what +direction, we did not know. We had thirty men with us, a more or +less ragtag lot, picked up anyhow in the bazaars. They were soft, +ill-disciplined and uncertain. For five or six hours they marched +well enough. Then the sun began to get very hot, and some of them +began to straggle. They had, of course, no intention of +deserting, for their only hope of surviving lay in staying with +us; but their loads had become heavy, and they took too many +rests. We put a good man behind, but without much avail. In open +country a safari can be permitted to straggle over miles, for +always it can keep in touch by sight; but in this thorn-scrub +desert, that looks all alike, a man fifty yards out of sight is +fifty yards lost. We would march fifteen or twenty minutes, then +sit down to wait until the rearmost men had straggled in, perhaps +a half hour later. And we did not dare move on until the tale of +our thirty was complete. At this rate progress was very slow, and +as the fierce equatorial sun increased in strength, became always +slower still. The situation became alarming. We were quite out of +water, and we had no idea where water was to be found. To +complicate matters, the thornbrush thickened to a jungle. + +My single companion and I consulted. It was agreed that I was to +push on as rapidly as possible to locate the water, while he was +to try to hold the caravan together. Accordingly, Memba Sasa and +I marched ahead. We tried to leave a trail to follow; and we +hoped fervently that our guess as to the stream's course would +prove to be a good one. At the end of two hours and a half we +found the water-a beautiful jungle-shaded stream-and filled +ourselves up therewith. Our duty was accomplished, for we had +left a trail to be followed. Nevertheless, I felt I should like +to take back our full canteens to relieve the worst cases. Memba +Sasa would not hear of it, and even while I was talking to him +seized the canteens and disappeared. + +At the end of two hours more camp was made, after a fashion; but +still four men had failed to come in. We built a smudge in the +hope of guiding them; and gave them up. If they had followed our +trail, they should have been in long ago; if they had missed that +trail, heaven knows where they were, or where we should go to +find them. Dusk was falling, and, to tell the truth, we were both +very much done up by a long day at 115 degrees in the shade under +an equatorial sun. The missing men would climb trees away from +the beasts, and we would organize a search next day. As we +debated these things, to us came Memba Sasa. + +"I want to take 'Winchi,'" said he. "Winchi" is his name for my +Winchester 405. + +"Why?" we asked. + +"If I can take Winchi, I will find the men," said he. + +This was entirely voluntary on his part. He, as well as we, had +had a hard day, and he had made a double journey for part of it. +We gave him Winchi and he departed. Sometime after midnight he +returned with the missing men. + +Perhaps a dozen times all told he volunteered for these special +services; once in particular, after a fourteen-hour day, he set +off at nine o'clock at night in a soaking rainstorm, wandered +until two o'clock, and returned unsuccessful, to rouse me and +report gravely that he could not find them. For these services he +neither received nor expected special reward. And catch him doing +anything outside his strict "cazi" except for US. + +We were always very ceremonious and dignified in our relations on +such occasions. Memba Sasa would suddenly appear, deposit the +rifle in its place, and stand at attention. + +"Well, Memba Sasa?" I would inquire. + +"I have found the men; they are in camp." + +Then I would give him his reward. It was either the word +"assanti," or the two words "assanti sana," according to the +difficulty and importance of the task accomplished. They mean +simply "thank you" and "thank you very much." + +Once or twice, after a particularly long and difficult month or +so, when Memba Sasa has been almost literally my alter ego, I +have called him up for special praise. "I am very pleased with +you, Memba Sasa," said I. "You have done your cazi well. You are +a good man." + +He accepted this with dignity, without deprecation, and without +the idiocy of spoken gratitude. He agreed perfectly with +everything I said! "Yes" was his only comment. I liked it. + +On our ultimate success in a difficult enterprise Memba Sasa set +great store; and his delight in ultimate success was apparently +quite apart from personal considerations. We had been hunting +greater kudu for five weeks before we finally landed one. The +greater kudu is, with the bongo, easily the prize beast in East +Africa, and very few are shot. By a piece of bad luck, for him, I +had sent Memba Sasa out in a different direction to look for +signs the afternoon we finally got one. The kill was made just at +dusk. C. and I, with Mavrouki, built a fire and stayed, while +Kongoni went to camp after men. There he broke the news to Memba +Sasa that the great prize had been captured, and he absent. Memba +Sasa was hugely delighted, nor did he in any way show what must +have been a great disappointment to him. After repeating the news +triumphantly to every one in camp, he came out to where we were +waiting, arrived quite out of breath, and grabbed me by the hand +in heartiest congratulation. + +Memba Sasa went in not at all for personal ornamentation, any +more than he allowed his dignity to be broken by anything +resembling emotionalism. No tattoo marks, no ear ornaments, no +rings nor bracelets. He never even picked up an ostrich feather +for his head. On the latter he sometimes wore an old felt hat; +sometimes, more picturesquely, an orange-coloured fillet. Khaki +shirt, khaki "shorts," blue puttees, besides his knife and my own +accoutrements: that was all. In town he was all white clad, a +long fine linen robe reaching to his feet; and one of the +lacelike skull caps he was so very skilful at making. + +That will do for a preliminary sketch. If you follow these pages, +you will hear more of him; he is worth it. + + + +VI. THE FIRST GAME CAMP + +In the review of "first" impressions with which we are concerned, +we must now skip a week or ten days to stop at what is known in +our diaries as the First Ford of the Guaso Nyero River. + +These ten days were not uneventful. We had crossed the wide and +undulating plains, had paused at some tall beautiful falls +plunging several hundred feet into the mysteriousness of a dense +forest on which we looked down. There we had enjoyed some duck, +goose and snipe shooting; had made the acquaintance of a few of +the Masai, and had looked with awe on our first hippo tracks in +the mud beside a tiny ditchlike stream. Here and there were small +game herds. In the light of later experience we now realize that +these were nothing at all; but at the time the sight of +full-grown wild animals out in plain sight was quite wonderful. +At the close of the day's march we always wandered out with our +rifles to see what we could find. Everything was new to us, and +we had our men to feed. Our shooting gradually improved until we +had overcome the difficulties peculiar to this new country and +were doing as well as we could do anywhere. + +Now, at the end of a hard day through scrub, over rolling bold +hills, and down a scrub brush slope, we had reached the banks of +the Guaso Nyero. + +At this point, above the junction of its principal tributary +rivers, it was a stream about sixty or seventy feet wide, flowing +swift between high banks. A few trees marked its course, but +nothing like a jungle. The ford was in swift water just above a +deep still pool suspected of crocodiles. We found the water about +waist deep, stretched a rope across, and forcibly persuaded our +eager boys that one at a time was about what the situation +required. On the other side we made camp on an open flat. Having +marched so far continuously, we resolved to settle down for a +while. The men had been without sufficient meat; and we desired +very much to look over the country closely, and to collect a few +heads as trophies. + +Perhaps a word might not come amiss as to the killing of game. +The case is here quite different from the condition of affairs at +home. Here animal life is most extraordinarily abundant; it +furnishes the main food supply to the traveller; and at present +is probably increasing slightly, certainly holding its own. +Whatever toll the sportsman or traveller take is as nothing +compared to what he might take if he were an unscrupulous game +hog. If his cartridges and his shoulder held out, he could easily +kill a hundred animals a day instead of the few he requires. In +that sense, then, no man slaughters indiscriminately. During the +course of a year he probably shoots from two hundred to two +hundred and fifty beasts, provided he is travelling with an +ordinary sized caravan. This, the experts say, is about the +annual toll of one lion. If the traveller gets his lion, he plays +even with the fauna of the country; if he gets two or more lions, +he has something to his credit. This probably explains why the +game is still so remarkably abundant near the road and on the +very outskirts of the town. + +We were now much in need of a fair quantity of meat, both for +immediate consumption of our safari, and to make biltong or +jerky. Later, in like circumstances, we should have sallied forth +in a businesslike fashion, dropped the requisite number of zebra +and hartebeeste as near camp as possible, and called it a job. +Now, however, being new to the game, we much desired good +trophies in variety. Therefore, we scoured the country far and +wide for desirable heads; and the meat waited upon the +acquisition of the trophy. + +This, then, might be called our first Shooting Camp. Heretofore +we had travelled every day. Now the boys settled down to what the +native porter considers the height of bliss: a permanent camp +with plenty to eat. Each morning we were off before daylight, +riding our horses, and followed by the gunbearers, the syces, and +fifteen or twenty porters. The country rose from the river in a +long gentle slope grown with low brush and scattered candlestick +euphorbias. This slope ended in a scattered range of low rocky +buttes. Through any one of the various openings between them, we +rode to find ourselves on the borders of an undulating grass +country of low rounded hills with wide valleys winding between +them. In these valleys and on these hills was the game. + +Daylight of the day I would tell about found us just at the edge +of the little buttes. Down one of the slopes the growing half +light revealed two oryx feeding, magnificent big creatures, with +straight rapier horns three feet in length. These were most +exciting and desirable, so off my horse I got and began to sneak +up on them through the low tufts of grass. They fed quite calmly. +I congratulated myself, and slipped nearer. Without even looking +in my direction, they trotted away. Somewhat chagrined, I +returned to my companions, and we rode on. + +Then across a mile-wide valley we saw two dark objects in the +tall grass; and almost immediately identified these as +rhinoceroses, the first we had seen. They stood there side by +side, gazing off into space, doing nothing in a busy morning +world. After staring at them through our glasses for some time, +we organized a raid. At the bottom of the valley we left the +horses and porters; lined up, each with his gunbearer at his +elbow; and advanced on the enemy. B. was to have the shot +According to all the books we should have been able, provided we +were downwind and made no noise, to have approached within fifty +or sixty yards undiscovered. However, at a little over a hundred +yards they both turned tail and departed at a swift trot, their +heads held well up and their tails sticking up straight and stiff +in the most ridiculous fashion. No good shooting at them in such +circumstances, so we watched them go, still keeping up their +slashing trot, growing smaller and smaller in the distance until +finally they disappeared over the top of a swell. + +We set ourselves methodically to following them. It took us over +an hour of steady plodding before we again came in sight of them. +They were this time nearer the top of a hill, and we saw +instantly that the curve of the slope was such that we could +approach within fifty yards before coming in sight at all. +Therefore, once more we dismounted, lined up in battle array, and +advanced. + +Sensations? Distinctly nervous, decidedly alert, and somewhat +self-congratulatory that I was not more scared. No man can +predicate how efficient he is going to be in the presence of +really dangerous game. Only the actual trial will show. This is +not a question of courage at all, but of purely involuntary +reaction of the nerves. Very few men are physical cowards. They +will and do face anything. But a great many men are rendered +inefficient by the way their nervous systems act under stress. It +is not a matter for control by will power in the slightest +degree. So the big game hunter must determine by actual trial +whether it so happens that the great excitement of danger renders +his hand shaky or steady. The excitement in either case is the +same. No man is ever "cool" in the sense that personal danger is of +the same kind of indifference to him as clambering aboard a +street car. He must always be lifted above himself, must enter an +extra normal condition to meet extra normal circumstances. He can +always control his conduct; but he can by no means always +determine the way the inevitable excitement will affect his +coordinations. And unfortunately, in the final result it does not +matter how brave a man is, but how closely he can hold. If he +finds that his nervous excitement renders him unsteady, he has no +business ever to tackle dangerous game alone. If, on the other +hand, he discovers that IDENTICALLY THE SAME nervous excitement +happens to steady his front sight to rocklike rigidity-a +rigidity he could not possibly attain in normal conditions-then +he will probably keep out of trouble. + +To amplify this further by a specific instance: I hunted for a +short time in Africa with a man who was always eager for exciting +encounters, whose pluck was admirable in every way, but whose +nervous reaction so manifested itself that he was utterly unable +to do even decent shooting at any range. Furthermore, his very +judgment and power of observation were so obscured that he could +not remember afterward with any accuracy what had happened-which +way the beast was pointing, how many there were of them, in which +direction they went, how many shots were fired, in short all the +smaller details of the affair. He thought he remembered. After +the show was over it was quite amusing to get his version of the +incident. It was almost always so wide of the fact as to be +little recognizable. And, mind you, he was perfectly sincere in +his belief, and absolutely courageous. Only he was quite unfitted +by physical make-up for a big game hunter; and I was relieved +when, after a short time, his route and mine separated. + +Well, we clambered up that slope with a fine compound of tension, +expectation, and latent uneasiness as to just what was going to +happen, anyway. Finally, we raised the backs of the beasts, +stooped, sneaked a little nearer, and finally at a signal stood +upright perhaps forty yards from the brutes. + +For the first time I experienced a sensation I was destined many +times to repeat-that of the sheer size of the animals. Menagerie +rhinoceroses had been of the smaller Indian variety; and in any +case most menagerie beasts are more or less stunted. These two, +facing us, their little eyes blinking, looked like full-grown +ironclads on dry land. The moment we stood erect B. fired at the +larger of the two. Instantly they turned and were off at a +tearing run. I opened fire, and B. let loose his second barrel. +At about two hundred and fifty yards the big rhinoceros suddenly +fell on his side, while the other continued his flight. It was +all over-very exciting because we got excited, but not in the +least dangerous. + +The boys were delighted, for here was meat in plenty for +everybody. We measured the beast, photographed him, marvelled at +his immense size, and turned him over to the gunbearers for +treatment. In half an hour or so a long string of porters headed +across the hills in the direction of camp, many miles distant, +each carrying his load either of meat, or the trophies. +Rhinoceros hide, properly treated, becomes as transparent as +amber, and so from it can be made many very beautiful souvenirs, +such as bowls, trays, paper knives, table tops, whips, canes, and +the like. And, of course, the feet of one's first rhino are +always saved for cigar boxes or inkstands. + +Already we had an admiring and impatient audience. From all +directions came the carrion birds. They circled far up in the +heavens; they shot downward like plummets from a great height +with an inspiring roar of wings; they stood thick in a solemn +circle all around the scene of the kill; they rose with a heavy +flapping when we moved in their direction. Skulking forms flashed +in the grass, and occasionally the pointed ears of a jackal would +rise inquiringly. + +It was by now nearly noon. The sun shone clear and hot; the heat +shimmer rose in clouds from the brown surface of the hills. In +all directions we could make out small gameherds resting +motionless in the heat of the day, the mirage throwing them into +fantastic shapes. While the final disposition was being made of +the defunct rhinoceros I wandered over the edge of the hill to +see what I could see, and fairly blundered on a herd of oryx at +about a hundred and fifty yards range. They looked at me a +startled instant, then leaped away to the left at a tremendous +speed. By a lucky shot, I bowled one over. He was a beautiful +beast, with his black and white face and his straight rapierlike +horns nearly three feet long, and I was most pleased to get him. +Memba Sasa came running at the sound of the shot. We set about +preparing the head. + +Then through a gap in the hills far to the left we saw a little +black speck moving rapidly in our direction. At the end of a +minute we could make it out as the second rhinoceros. He had run +heaven knows how many miles away, and now he was returning; +whether with some idea of rejoining his companion or from sheer +chance, I do not know. At any rate, here he was, still ploughing +along at his swinging trot. His course led him along a side hill +about four hundred yards from where the oryx lay. When he was +directly opposite I took the Springfield and fired, not at him, +but at a spot five or six feet in front of his nose. The bullet +threw up a column of dust. Rhino brought up short with +astonishment, wheeled to the left, and made off at a gallop. I +dropped another bullet in front of him. Again he stopped, changed +direction, and made off. For the third time I hit the ground in +front of him. Then he got angry, put his head down and charged +the spot. + +Five more shots I expended on the amusement of that rhinoceros; +and at the last had run furiously charging back and forth in a +twenty-yard space, very angry at the little puffing, screeching +bullets, but quite unable to catch one. Then he made up his mind +and departed the way he had come, finally disappearing as a +little rapidly moving black speck through the gap in the hills +where we had first caught sight of him. + +We finished caring for the oryx, and returned to camp. To our +surprise we found we were at least seven or eight miles out. + +In this fashion days passed very quickly. The early dewy start in +the cool of the morning, the gradual grateful warming up of +sunrise, and immediately after, the rest during the midday heats +under a shady tree, the long trek back to camp at sunset, the hot +bath after the toilsome day-all these were very pleasant. Then +the swift falling night, and the gleam of many tiny fires +springing up out of the darkness; with each its sticks full of +meat roasting, and its little circle of men, their skins gleaming +in the light. As we sat smoking, we would become aware that +M'ganga, the headman, was standing silent awaiting orders. Some +one would happen to see the white of his eyes, or perhaps he +might smile so that his teeth would become visible. Otherwise he +might stand there an hour, and no one the wiser, for he was +respectfully silent, and exactly the colour of the night. + +We would indicate to him our plans for the morrow, and he would +disappear. Then at a distance of twenty or thirty feet from the +front of our tents a tiny tongue of flame would lick up. Dark +figures could be seen manipulating wood. A blazing fire sprang +up, against which we could see the motionless and picturesque +figure of Saa-sita (Six o'Clock), the askari of the first night +watch, leaning on his musket. He was a most picturesque figure, +for his fancy ran to original headdresses, and at the moment he +affected a wonderful upstanding structure made of marabout wings. + +At this sign that the night had begun, we turned in. A few hyenas +moaned, a few jackals barked: otherwise the first part of the +night was silent, for the hunters were at their silent business, +and the hunted were "layin' low and sayin' nuffin'." + +Day after day we rode out, exploring the country in different +directions. The great uncertainty as to what of interest we would +find filled the hours with charm. Sometimes we clambered about +the cliffs of the buttes trying to find klipspringers; again we +ran miles pursuing the gigantic eland. I in turn got my first +rhinoceros, with no more danger than had attended the killing of +B.'s. On this occasion, however, I had my first experience of the +lightning skill of the first-class gunbearer. Having fired both +barrels, and staggered the beast, I threw open the breech and +withdrew the empty cartridges, intending, of course, as my next +move to fish two more out of my belt. The empty shells were +hardly away from the chambers, however, when a long brown arm +shot over my right shoulder and popped two fresh cartridges in +the breech. So astonished was I at this unexpected apparition, +that for a second or so I actually forgot to close the gun. + + + +VII. ON THE MARCH + +After leaving the First Game Camp, we travelled many hours and +miles over rolling hills piling ever higher and higher until they +broke through a pass to illimitable plains. These plains were +mantled with the dense scrub, looking from a distance and from +above like the nap of soft green velvet. Here and there this +scrub broke in round or oval patches of grass plain. Great +mountain ranges peered over the edge of a horizon. Lesser +mountain peaks of fantastic shapes-sheer Yosemite cliffs, single +buttes, castles-had ventured singly from behind that same +horizon barricade. The course of a river was marked by a +meandering line of green jungle. + +It took us two days to get to that river. Our intermediate camp +was halfway down the pass. We ousted a hundred indignant +straw-coloured monkeys and twice as many baboons from the tiny +flat above the water hole. They bobbed away cursing over their +shoulders at us. Next day we debouched on the plains. They were +rolling, densely grown, covered with volcanic stones, swarming +with game of various sorts. The men marched well. They were +happy, for they had had a week of meat; and each carried a light +lunch of sun-dried biltong or jerky. Some mistaken individuals +had attempted to bring along some "fresh" meat. We found it +advisable to pass to windward of these; but they themselves did +not seem to mind. + +It became very hot; for we were now descending to the lower +elevations. The marching through long grass and over volcanic +stones was not easy. Shortly we came out on stumbly hills, mostly +rock, very dry, grown with cactus and discouraged desiccated +thorn scrub. Here the sun reflected powerfully and the bearers +began to flag. + +Then suddenly, without warning, we pitched over a little rise to +the river. + +No more marvellous contrast could have been devised. From the +blasted barren scrub country we plunged into the lush jungle. It +was not a very wide jungle, but it was sufficient. The trees were +large and variegated, reaching to a high and spacious upper story +above the ground tangle. From the massive limbs hung vines, +festooned and looped like great serpents. Through this upper +corridor flitted birds of bright hue or striking variegation. We +did not know many of them by name, nor did we desire to; but were +content with the impression of vivid flashing movement and +colour. Various monkeys swung, leaped and galloped slowly away +before our advance; pausing to look back at us curiously, the +ruffs of fur standing out all around their little black faces. +The lower half of the forest jungle, however, had no spaciousness +at all, but a certain breathless intimacy. Great leaved plants as +tall as little trees, and trees as small as big plants, bound +together by vines, made up the "deep impenetrable jungle" of our +childhood imagining. Here were rustlings, sudden scurryings, +half-caught glimpses, once or twice a crash as some greater +animal made off. Here and there through the thicket wandered well +beaten trails, wide, but low, so that to follow them one would +have to bend double. These were the paths of rhinoceroses. The +air smelt warm and moist and earthy, like the odour of a +greenhouse. + +We skirted this jungle until it gave way to let the plain down to +the river. Then, in an open grove of acacias, and fairly on the +river's bank, we pitched our tents. + +These acacia trees were very noble big chaps, with many branches +and a thick shade. In their season they are wonderfully blossomed +with white, with yellow, sometimes even with vivid red flowers. +Beneath them was only a small matter of ferns to clear away. + +Before us the sodded bank rounded off ten feet the river itself. +At this point far up in its youth it was a friendly river. Its +noble width ran over shallows of yellow sand or of small pebbles. +Save for unexpected deep holes one could wade across it anywhere. +Yet it was very wide, with still reaches of water, with islands +of gigantic papyrus, with sand bars dividing the current, and +with always the vista for a greater or lesser distance down +through the jungle along its banks. From our canvas chairs we +could look through on one side to the arid country, and on the +other to this tropical wonderland. + +Yes, at this point in its youth it was indeed a friendly river in +every sense of the word. There are three reasons, ordinarily, why +one cannot bathe in the African rivers. In the first place, they +are nearly all disagreeably muddy; in the second place, cold +water in a tropical climate causes horrible congestions; in the +third place they swarm with crocodiles and hippos. But this river +was as yet unpolluted by the alluvial soil of the lower +countries; the sun on its shallows had warmed its waters almost +to blood heat; and the beasts found no congenial haunts in these +clear shoals. Almost before our tents were up the men were +splashing. And always my mental image of that river's beautiful +expanse must include round black heads floating like gourds where +the water ran smoothest. + +Our tents stood all in a row facing the stream, the great trees +at their backs. Down in the grove the men had pitched their +little white shelters. Happily they settled down to ease. +Settling down to ease, in the case of the African porter, +consists in discarding as many clothes as possible. While on the +march he wears everything he owns; whether from pride or a desire +to simplify transportation I am unable to say. He is supplied by +his employer with a blanket and jersey. As supplementals he can +generally produce a half dozen white man's ill-assorted garments: +an old shooting coat, a ragged pair of khaki breeches, a kitchen +tablecloth for a skirt, or something of the sort. If he can raise +an overcoat he is happy, especially if it happen to be a long, +thick WINTER overcoat. The possessor of such a garment will wear +it conscientiously throughout the longest journey and during the +hottest noons. But when he relaxes in camp, he puts away all +these prideful possessions and turns out in the savage simplicity +of his red blanket. Draped negligently, sometimes very +negligently, in what may be termed semi-toga fashion, he stalks +about or squats before his little fire in all the glory of a +regained savagery. The contrast of the red with his red bronze or +black skin, the freedom and grace of his movements, the upright +carriage of his fine figure, and the flickering savagery playing +in his eyes are very effective. + +Our men occupied their leisure variously and happily. A great +deal of time they spent before their tiny fires roasting meat and +talking. This talk was almost invariably of specific personal +experiences. They bathed frequently and with pleasure. They +slept. Between times they fashioned ingenious affairs of ornament +or use: bows and arrows, throwing clubs, snuff-boxes of the tips +of antelope horns, bound prettily with bright wire, wooden swords +beautifully carved in exact imitation of the white man's service +weapon, and a hundred other such affairs. At this particular time +also they were much occupied in making sandals against the +thorns. These were flat soles of rawhide, the edges pounded to +make them curl up a trifle over the foot, fastened by thongs; +very ingenious, and very useful. To their task they brought song. +The labour of Africa is done to song; weird minor chanting +starting high in the falsetto to trickle unevenly down to the +lower registers, or where the matter is one of serious effort, an +antiphony of solo and chorus. From all parts of the camp come +these softly modulated chantings, low and sweet, occasionally +breaking into full voice as the inner occasion swells, then +almost immediately falling again to the murmuring undertone of +more concentrated attention. + +The red blanket was generally worn knotted from one shoulder or +bound around the waist Malay fashion. When it turned into a cowl, +with a miserable and humpbacked expression, it became the +Official Badge of Illness. No matter what was the matter that was +the proper thing to do-to throw the blanket over the head and to +assume as miserable a demeanour as possible. A sore toe demanded +just as much concentrated woe as a case of pneumonia. Sick call +was cried after the day's work was finished. Then M'ganga or one +of the askaris lifted up his voice. + +"N'gonjwa! n'gonjwa!" he shouted; and at the shout the red cowls +gathered in front of the tent. Three things were likely to be the +matter: too much meat, fever, or pus infection from slight +wounds. To these in the rainy season would be added the various +sorts of colds. That meant either Epsom salts, quinine, or a +little excursion with the lancet and permanganate. The African +traveller gets to be heap big medicine man within these narrow +limits. + +All the red cowls squatted miserably, oh, very miserably, in a +row. The headman stood over them rather fiercely. We surveyed the +lot contemplatively, hoping to heaven that nothing complicated +was going to turn up. One of the tent boys hovered in the +background as dispensing chemist. + +"Well," said F. at last, "what's the matter with you?" + +The man indicated pointed to his head and the back of his neck +and groaned. If he had a slight headache he groaned just as much +as though his head were splitting. F. asked a few questions, and +took his temperature. The clinical thermometer is in itself +considered big medicine, and often does much good. + +"Too much meat, my friend," remarked F. in English, and to his +boy in Swahili, "bring the cup." + +He put in this cup a triple dose of Epsom salts. The African +requires three times a white man's dose. This, pathologically, +was all that was required: but psychologically the job was just +begun. Your African can do wonderful things with his imagination. +If he thinks he is going to die, die he will, and very promptly, +even though he is ailing of the most trivial complaint. If he +thinks he is going to get well, he is very apt to do so in face +of extraordinary odds. Therefore the white man desires not only +to start his patient's internal economy with Epsom salts, but +also to stir his faith. To this end F. added to that triple dose +of medicine a spoonful of Chutney, one of Worcestershire sauce, a +few grains of quinine, Sparklets water and a crystal or so of +permanganate to turn the mixture a beautiful pink. This +assortment the patient drank with gratitude-and the tears +running down his cheeks. + +"He will carry a load to-morrow," F. told the attentive M'ganga. + +The next patient had fever. This one got twenty grains of quinine +in water. + +"This man carries no load to-morrow," was the direction, "but he +must not drop behind." + +Two or three surgical cases followed. Then a big Kavirondo rose +to his feet. + +"Nini?" demanded F. + +"Homa-fever," whined the man. + +F. clapped his hand on the back of the other's neck. + +"I think," he remarked contemplatively in English, "that you're a +liar, and want to get out of carrying your load." + +The clinical thermometer showed no evidence of temperature. + +"I'm pretty near sure you're a liar," observed F. in the +pleasantest conversational tone and still in English, "but you +may be merely a poor diagnostician. Perhaps your poor insides +couldn't get away with that rotten meat I saw you lugging +around. We'll see." + +So he mixed a pint of medicine. + +"There's Epsom salts for the real part of trouble," observed F., +still talking to himself, "and here's a few things for the fake." + +He then proceeded to concoct a mixture whose recoil was the exact +measure of his imagination. The imagination was only limited by +the necessity of keeping the mixture harmless. Every hot, biting, +nauseous horror in camp went into that pint measure. + +"There," concluded F., "if you drink that and come back again +to-morrow for treatment, I'll believe you ARE sick." + +Without undue pride I would like to record that I was the first +to think of putting in a peculiarly nauseous gun oil, and thereby +acquired a reputation of making tremendous medicine. + +So implicit is this faith in white man's medicine that at one of +the Government posts we were approached by one of the secondary +chiefs of the district. He was a very nifty savage, dressed for +calling, with his hair done in ropes like a French poodle's, his +skin carefully oiled and reddened, his armlets and necklets +polished, and with the ceremonial ball of black feathers on the +end of his long spear. His gait was the peculiar mincing teeter +of savage conventional society. According to custom, he +approached unsmiling, spat carefully in his palm, and shook +hands. Then he squatted and waited. + +"What is it?" we asked after it became evident he really wanted +something besides the pleasure of our company. + +"N'dowa-medicine," said he. + +"Why do you not go the Government dispensary?" we demanded. + +"The doctor there is an Indian; I want REAL medicine, white man's +medicine," he explained. + +Immensely flattered, of course, we wanted further to know what +ailed him. + +"Nothing," said he blandly, "nothing at all; but it seemed an +excellent chance to get good medicine." + +After the clinic was all attended to, we retired to our tents and +the screeching-hot bath so grateful in the tropics. When we +emerged, in our mosquito boots and pajamas, the daylight was +gone. Scores of little blazes licked and leaped in the velvet +blackness round about, casting the undergrowth and the lower +branches of the trees into flat planes like the cardboard of a +stage setting. Cheerful, squatted figures sat in silhouette or in +the relief of chance high light. Long switches of meat roasted +before the fires. A hum of talk, bursts of laughter, the crooning +of minor chants mingled with the crackling of thorns. Before our +tents stood the table set for supper. Beyond it lay the pile of +firewood, later to be burned on the altar of our safety against +beasts. The moonlight was casting milky shadows over the river +and under the trees opposite. In those shadows gleamed many +fireflies. Overhead were millions of stars, and a little breeze +that wandered through upper branches. + +But in Equatorial Africa the simple bands of velvet black, against +the spangled brightnesses that make up the visual night world, +must give way in interest to the other world of sound. The air +hums with an undertone of insects; the plain and hill and jungle +are populous with voices furtive or bold. In daytime one sees +animals enough, in all conscience, but only at night does he +sense the almost oppressive feeling of the teeming life about +him. The darkness is peopled. Zebra bark, bucks blow or snort or +make the weird noises of their respective species; hyenas howl; +out of an immense simian silence a group of monkeys suddenly +break into chatterings; ostriches utter their deep hollow boom; +small things scurry and squeak; a certain weird bird of the +curlew or plover sort wails like a lonesome soul. Especially by +the river, as here, are the boomings of the weirdest of weird +bullfrogs, and the splashings and swishings of crocodile and +hippopotamus. One is impressed with the busyness of the world +surrounding him; every bird or beast, the hunter and the hunted, +is the centre of many important affairs. The world swarms. + +And then, some miles away a lion roars, the earth and air +vibrating to the sheer power of the sound. The world falls to a +blank dead silence. For a full minute every living creature of +the jungle or of the veldt holds its breath. Their lord has +spoken. + +After dinner we sat in our canvas chairs, smoking. The guard fire +in front of our tent had been lit. On the other side of it stood +one of our askaris leaning on his musket. He and his three +companions, turn about, keep the flames bright against the +fiercer creatures. + +After a time we grew sleepy. I called Saa-sita and entrusted to +him my watch. On the crystal of this I had pasted a small piece +of surgeon's plaster. When the hour hand reached the surgeon's +plaster, he must wake us up. Saa-sita was a very conscientious +and careful man. One day I took some time hitching my pedometer +properly to his belt: I could not wear it effectively myself +because I was on horseback. At the end of the ten-hour march it +registered a mile and a fraction. Saa-sita explained that he +wished to take especial care of it, so he had wrapped it in a +cloth and carried it all day in his hand! + +We turned in. As I reached over to extinguish the lantern I +issued my last command for the day. + +"Watcha kalele, Saa-sita," I told the askari; at once he lifted +up his voice to repeat my words. "Watcha kalele!" Immediately +from the Responsible all over camp the word came back-from +gunbearers, from M'ganga, from tent boys-"kalele! kalele! +kalele!" + +Thus commanded, the boisterous fun, the croon of intimate talk, +the gently rising and falling tide of melody fell to complete +silence. Only remained the crackling of the fire and the +innumerable voices of the tropical night. + + + +VIII. THE RIVER JUNGLE + +We camped along this river for several weeks, poking indefinitely +and happily around the country in all directions to see what we +could see. Generally we went together, for neither B. nor myself +had been tried out as yet on dangerous game-those easy rhinos +hardly counted-and I think we both preferred to feel that we had +backing until we knew what our nerves were going to do with us. +Nevertheless, occasionally, I would take Memba Sasa and go out +for a little purposeless stroll a few miles up or down river. +Sometimes we skirted the jungle, sometimes we held as near as +possible to the river's bank, sometimes we cut loose and rambled +through the dry, crackling scrub over the low volcanic hills of +the arid country outside. + +Nothing can equal the intense interest of the most ordinary walk +in Africa. It is the only country I know of where a man is +thoroughly and continuously alive. Often when riding horseback +with the dogs in my California home I have watched them in envy +of the keen, alert interest they took in every stone, stick, and +bush, in every sight, sound, and smell. With equal frequency I +have expressed that envy, but as something unattainable to a +human being's more phlegmatic make-up. In Africa one actually +rises to continuous alertness. There are dozy moments-except you +curl up in a safe place for the PURPOSE of dozing; again just +like the dog! Every bush, every hollow, every high tuft of grass, +every deep shadow must be scrutinized for danger. It will not do +to pass carelessly any possible lurking place. At the same time +the sense of hearing must be on guard; so that no break of twig +or crash of bough can go unremarked. Rhinoceroses conceal +themselves most cannily, and have a deceitful habit of leaping +from a nap into their swiftest stride. Cobras and puff adders are +scarce, to be sure, but very deadly. Lions will generally give +way, if not shot at or too closely pressed; nevertheless there is +always the chance of cubs or too close a surprise. Buffalo lurk +daytimes in the deep thickets, but occasionally a rogue bull +lives where your trail will lead. These things do not happen +often, but in the long run they surely do happen, and once is +quite enough provided the beast gets in. + +At first this continual alertness and tension is rather +exhausting; but after a very short time it becomes second nature. +A sudden rustle the other side a bush no longer brings you up all +standing with your heart in your throat; but you are aware of it, +and you are facing the possible danger almost before your slower +brain has issued any orders to that effect. + +In rereading the above, I am afraid that I am conveying the idea +that one here walks under the shadow of continual uneasiness. +This is not in the least so. One enjoys the sun, and the birds +and the little things. He cultivates the great leisure of mind +that shall fill the breadth of his outlook abroad over a newly +wonderful world. But underneath it all is the alertness, the +responsiveness to quick reflexes of judgment and action, the +intimate correlations to immediate environment which must +characterize the instincts of the higher animals. And it is good +to live these things. + +Along the edge of that river jungle were many strange and +beautiful affairs. I could slip along among the high clumps of +the thicker bushes in such a manner as to be continually coming +around unexpected bends. Of such maneouvres are surprises made. +The graceful red impalla were here very abundant. I would come on +them, their heads up, their great ears flung forward, their noses +twitching in inquiry of something they suspected but could not +fully sense. When slightly alarmed or suspicious the does always +stood compactly in a herd, while the bucks remained discreetly in +the background, their beautiful, branching, widespread horns +showing over the backs of their harems. The impalla is, in my +opinion, one of the most beautiful and graceful of the African +bucks, a perpetual delight to watch either standing or running. +These beasts are extraordinarily agile, and have a habit of +breaking their ordinary fast run by unexpectedly leaping high in +the air. At a distance they give somewhat the effect of dolphins +at sea, only their leaps are higher and more nearly +perpendicular. Once or twice I have even seen one jump over the +back of another. On another occasion we saw a herd of twenty-five +or thirty cross a road of which, evidently, they were a little +suspicious. We could not find a single hoof mark in the dust! +Generally these beasts frequent thin brush country; but I have +three or four times seen them quite out in the open flat plains, +feeding with the hartebeeste and zebra. They are about the size +of our ordinary deer, are delicately fashioned, and can utter the +most incongruously grotesque of noises by way of calls or +ordinary conversation. + +The lack of curiosity, or the lack of gallantry, of the impalla +bucks was, in my experience, quite characteristic. They were +almost always the farthest in the background and the first away +when danger threatened. The ladies could look out for themselves. +They had no horns to save; and what do the fool women mean by +showing so little sense, anyway! They deserve what they get! It +used to amuse me a lot to observe the utter abandonment of all +responsibility by these handsome gentlemen. When it came time to +depart, they departed. Hang the girls! They trailed along after +as fast as they could. + +The waterbuck-a fine large beast about the size of our caribou, +a well-conditioned buck resembling in form and attitude the +finest of Landseer's stags-on the other hand, had a little more +sense of responsibility, when he had anything to do with the sex +at all. He was hardly what you might call a strictly domestic +character. I have hunted through a country for several days at a +time without seeing a single mature buck of this species, +although there were plenty of does, in herds of ten to fifty, +with a few infants among them just sprouting horns. Then finally, +in some small grassy valley, I would come on the Men's Club. +There they were, ten, twenty, three dozen of them, having the +finest kind of an untramelled masculine time all by themselves. +Generally, however, I will say for them, they took care of their +own peoples. There would quite likely be one big old fellow, his +harem of varying numbers, and the younger subordinate bucks all +together in a happy family. When some one of the lot announced +that something was about, and they had all lined up to stare in +the suspected direction, the big buck was there in the foreground +of inquiry. When finally they made me out, it was generally the +big buck who gave the signal. He went first, to be sure, but his +going first was evidently an act of leadership, and not merely a +disgraceful desire to get away before the rest did. + +But the waterbuck had to yield in turn to the plains gazelles; +especially to the Thompson's gazelle, familiarly-and +affectionately-known as the "Tommy." He is a quaint little chap, +standing only a foot and a half tall at the shoulder, fawn colour +on top, white beneath, with a black, horizontal stripe on his +side, like a chipmunk, most lightly and gracefully built. When he +was first made, somebody told him that unless he did something +characteristic, like waggling his little tail, he was likely to +be mistaken by the undiscriminating for his bigger cousin, the +Grant's gazelle. He has waggled his tail ever since, and so is +almost never mistaken for a Grant's gazelle, even by the +undiscriminating. Evidently his religion is Mohammedan, for he +always has a great many wives. He takes good care of them, +however. When danger appears, even when danger threatens, he is +the last to leave the field. Here and there he dashes +frantically, seeing that the women and children get off. And when +the herd tops the hill, Tommy's little horns bring up the rear of +the procession. I like Tommy. He is a cheerful, gallant, quaint +little person, with the air of being quite satisfied with his own +solution of this complicated world. + +Among the low brush at the edge of the river jungle dwelt also +the dik-dik, the tiniest miniature of a deer you could possibly +imagine. His legs are lead pencil size, he stands only about nine +inches tall, he weighs from five to ten pounds; and yet he is a +perfect little antelope, horns and all. I used to see him singly +or in pairs standing quite motionless and all but invisible in +the shade of bushes; or leaping suddenly to his feet and +scurrying away like mad through the dry grass. His personal +opinion of me was generally expressed in a loud clear whistle. +But then nobody in this strange country talks the language you +would naturally expect him to talk! Zebra bark, hyenas laugh, +impallas grunt, ostriches boom like drums, leopards utter a +plaintive sigh, hornbills cry like a stage child, bushbucks sound +like a cross between a dog and a squawky toy-and so on. There is +only one safe rule of the novice in Africa: NEVER BELIEVE A WORD +THE JUNGLE AND VELDT PEOPLE TELL YOU. + +These two-the impalla and the waterbuck-were the principal buck +we would see close to the river. Occasionally, however, we came +on a few oryx, down for a drink, beautiful big antelope, with +white and black faces, roached manes, and straight, nearly +parallel, rapier horns upward of three feet long. A herd of these +creatures, the light gleaming on their weapons, held all at the +same slant, was like a regiment of bayonets in the sun. And there +were also the rhinoceroses to be carefully espied and avoided. +They lay obliterated beneath the shade of bushes, and arose with +a mighty blow-off of steam. Whereupon we withdrew silently, for +we wanted to shoot no more rhinos, unless we had to. + +Beneath all these obvious and startling things, a thousand other +interesting matters were afoot. In the mass and texture of the +jungle grew many strange trees and shrubs. One most scrubby, fat +and leafless tree, looking as though it were just about to give +up a discouraged existence, surprised us by putting forth, +apparently directly from its bloated wood, the most wonderful red +blossoms. Another otherwise self-respecting tree hung itself all +over with plump bologna sausages about two feet long and five +inches thick. A curious vine hung like a rope, with Turk's-head +knots about a foot apart on its whole length, like the +hand-over-hand ropes of gymnasiums. Other ropes were studded all +over with thick blunt bosses, resembling much the outbreak on one +sort of Arts-and-Crafts door: the sort intended to repel +Mail-clad Hosts. + +The monkeys undoubtedly used such obvious highways through the +trees. These little people were very common. As we walked along, +they withdrew before us. We could make out their figures +galloping hastily across the open places, mounting bushes and +stubs to take a satisfying backward look, clambering to treetops, +and launching themselves across the abysses between limbs. If we +went slowly, they retired in silence. If we hurried at all, they +protested in direct ratio to the speed of our advance. And when +later the whole safari, loads on heads, marched inconsiderately +through their jungle! We happened to be hunting on a parallel +course a half mile away, and we could trace accurately the +progress of our men by the outraged shrieks, chatterings, appeals +to high heaven for at least elemental justice to the monkey +people. + +Often, too, we would come on concourses of the big baboons. They +certainly carried on weighty affairs of their own according to a +fixed polity. I never got well enough acquainted with them to +master the details of their government, but it was indubitably built +on patriarchal lines. When we succeeded in approaching without +being discovered, we would frequently find the old men baboons +squatting on their heels in a perfect circle, evidently +discussing matters of weight and portent. Seen from a distance, +their group so much resembled the council circles of native +warriors that sometimes, in a native country, we made that +mistake. Outside this solemn council, the women, young men and +children went about their daily business, whatever that was. Up +convenient low trees or bushes roosted sentinels. + +We never remained long undiscovered. One of the sentinels barked +sharply. At once the whole lot loped away, speedily but with a +curious effect of deliberation. The men folks held their tails in +a proud high sideways arch; the curious youngsters clambered up +bushes to take a hasty look; the babies clung desperately with +all four feet to the thick fur on their mothers' backs; the +mothers galloped along imperturbably unheeding of infantile +troubles aloft. The side hill was bewildering with the big +bobbing black forms. + +In this lower country the weather was hot, and the sun very +strong. The heated air was full of the sounds of insects; some of +them comfortable, like the buzzing of bees, some of them strange +and unusual to us. One cicada had a sustained note, in quality +about like that of our own August-day's friend, but in quantity +and duration as the roar of a train to the gentle hum of a good +motor car. Like all cicada noises it did not usurp the sound +world, but constituted itself an underlying basis, so to speak. +And when it stopped the silence seemed to rush in as into a +vacuum! + +We had likewise the aeroplane beetle. He was so big that he would +have made good wing-shooting. His manner of flight was the +straight-ahead, heap-of-buzz, plenty-busy, +don't-stop-a-minute-or-you'll-come-down method of the aeroplane; +and he made the same sort of a hum. His first-cousin, +mechanically, was what we called the wind-up-the-watch insect. +This specimen possessed a watch-an old-fashioned Waterbury, +evidently-that he was continually winding. It must have been +hard work for the poor chap, for it sounded like a very big +watch. + +All these things were amusing. So were the birds. The African +bird is quite inclined to be didactic. He believes you need +advice, and he means to give it. To this end he repeats the same +thing over and over until he thinks you surely cannot +misunderstand. One chap especially whom we called the lawyer +bird, and who lived in the treetops, had four phrases to impart. +He said them very deliberately, with due pause between each; then +he repeated them rapidly; finally he said them all over again +with an exasperated bearing-down emphasis. The joke of it is I +cannot now remember just how they went! Another feathered +pedagogue was continually warning us to go slow; very good advice +near an African jungle. "Poley-poley! Poley-poley!" he warned +again and again; which is good Swahili for "slowly! slowly!" We +always minded him. There were many others, equally impressed with +their own wisdom, but the one I remember with most amusement was +a dilatory person who apparently never got around to his job +until near sunset. Evidently he had contracted to deliver just so +many warnings per diem; and invariably he got so busy chasing +insects, enjoying the sun, gossiping with a friend and generally +footling about that the late afternoon caught him unawares with +never a chirp accomplished. So he sat in a bush and said his say +over and over just as fast as he could without pause for breath +or recreation. It was really quite a feat. Just at dusk, after +two hours of gabbling, he would reach the end of his contracted +number. With final relieved chirp he ended. + +It has been said that African birds are "songless." This is a +careless statement that can easily be read to mean that African +birds are silent. The writer evidently must have had in mind as a +criterion some of our own or the English great feathered +soloists. Certainly the African jungle seems to produce no +individual performers as sustained as our own bob-o-link, our +hermit thrush, or even our common robin. But the African birds +are vocal enough, for all that. Some of them have a richness and +depth of timbre perhaps unequalled elsewhere. Of such is the +chime-bird with his deep double note; or the bell-bird tolling +like a cathedral in the blackness of the forest; or the bottle +bird that apparently pours gurgling liquid gold from a silver +jug. As the jungle is exceedingly populous of these feathered +specialists, it follows that the early morning chorus is +wonderful. Africa may not possess the soloists, but its full +orchestrial effects are superb. + +Naturally under the equator one expects and demands the "gorgeous +tropical plumage" of the books. He is not disappointed. The +sun-birds of fifty odd species, the brilliant blue starlings, the +various parrots, the variegated hornbills, the widower-birds, and +dozens of others whose names would mean nothing flash here and +there in the shadow and in the open. With them are hundreds of +quiet little bodies just as interesting to one who likes birds. +>From the trees and bushes hang pear-shaped nests plaited +beautifully of long grasses, hard and smooth as hand-made +baskets, the work of the various sorts of weaver-birds. In the +tops of the trees roosted tall marabout storks like dissipated, +hairless old club-men in well-groomed, correct evening dress. + +And around camp gathered the swift brown kites. They were robbers +and villains, but we could not hate them. All day long they +sailed back and forth spying sharply. When they thought they saw +their chance, they stooped with incredible swiftness to seize a +piece of meat. Sometimes they would snatch their prize almost +from the hands of its rightful owner, and would swoop +triumphantly upward again pursued by polyglot maledictions and a +throwing stick. They were very skilful on their wings. I have +many times seen them, while flying, tear up and devour large +chunks of meat. It seems to my inexperience as an aviator rather +a nice feat to keep your balance while tearing with your beak at +meat held in your talons. Regardless of other landmarks, we +always knew when we were nearing camp, after one of our strolls, +by the gracefully wheeling figures of our kites. + + + +IX. THE FIRST LION + +One day we all set out to make our discoveries: F., B., and I with +our gunbearers, Memba Sasa, Mavrouki, and Simba, and ten porters +to bring in the trophies, which we wanted very much, and the +meat, which the men wanted still more. We rode our horses, and +the syces followed. This made quite a field force-nineteen men +all told. Nineteen white men would be exceedingly unlikely to get +within a liberal half mile of anything; but the native has sneaky +ways. + +At first we followed between the river and the low hills, but +when the latter drew back to leave open a broad flat, we followed +their line. At this point they rose to a clifflike headland a +hundred and fifty feet high, flat on top. We decided to +investigate that mesa, both for the possibilities of game, and +for the chance of a view abroad. + +The footing was exceedingly noisy and treacherous, for it was +composed of flat, tinkling little stones. Dried-up, skimpy bushes +just higher than our heads made a thin but regular cover. There +seemed not to be a spear of anything edible, yet we caught the +flash of red as a herd of impalla melted away at our rather noisy +approach. Near the foot of the hill we dismounted, with orders to +all the men but the gunbearers to sit down and make themselves +comfortable. Should we need them we could easily either signal or +send word. Then we set ourselves toilsomely to clamber up that +volcanic hill. + +It was not particularly easy going, especially as we were trying +to walk quietly. You see, we were about to surmount a skyline. +Surmounting a skyline is always most exciting anywhere, for what +lies beyond is at once revealed as a whole and contains the very +essence of the unknown; but most decidedly is this true in +Africa. That mesa looked flat, and almost anything might be +grazing or browsing there. So we proceeded gingerly, with due +regard to the rolling of the loose rocks or the tinkling of the +little pebbles. + +But long before we had reached that alluring skyline we were +halted by the gentle snapping of Mavrouki's fingers. That, +strangely enough, is a sound to which wild animals seem to pay no +attention, and is therefore most useful as a signal. We looked +back. The three gunbearers were staring to the right of our +course. About a hundred yards away, on the steep side hill, and +partly concealed by the brush, stood two rhinoceroses. + +They were side by side, apparently dozing. We squatted on our +heels for a consultation. + +The obvious thing, as the wind was from them, was to sneak +quietly by, saying nuffin' to nobody. But although we wanted no +more rhino, we very much wanted rhino pictures. A discussion +developed no really good reason why we should not kodak these +especial rhinos-except that there were two of them. So we began +to worm our way quietly through the bushes in their direction. + +F. and B. deployed on the flanks, their double-barrelled rifles +ready for instant action. I occupied the middle with that +dangerous weapon the 3A kodak. Memba Sasa followed at my elbow, +holding my big gun. + +Now the trouble with modern photography is that it is altogether +too lavish in its depiction of distances. If you do not believe +it, take a picture of a horse at as short a range as twenty-five +yards. That equine will, in the development, have receded to a +respectable middle distance. Therefore it had been agreed that +the advance of the battle line was to cease only when those +rhinoceroses loomed up reasonably large in the finder. I kept +looking into the finder, you may be sure. Nearer and nearer we +crept. The great beasts were evidently basking in the sun. Their +little pig eyes alone gave any sign of life. Otherwise they +exhibited the complete immobility of something done in granite. +Probably no other beast impresses one with quite this quality. I +suppose it is because even the little motions peculiar to other +animals are with the rhinoceros entirely lacking. He is not in +the least of a nervous disposition, so he does not stamp his feet +nor change his position. It is useless for him to wag his tail; +for, in the first place, the tail is absurdly inadequate; and, in +the second place, flies are not among his troubles. Flies +wouldn't bother you either, if you had a skin two inches thick. +So there they stood, inert and solid as two huge brown rocks, +save for the deep, wicked twinkle of their little eyes. + +Yes, we were close enough to "see the whites of their eyes," if +they had had any: and also to be within the range of their +limited vision. Of course we were now stalking, and taking +advantage of all the cover. + +Those rhinoceroses looked to me like two Dreadnaughts. The +African two-horned rhinoceros is a bigger animal anyway than our +circus friend, who generally comes from India. One of these +brutes I measured went five feet nine inches at the shoulder, and +was thirteen feet six inches from bow to stern. Compare these +dimensions with your own height and with the length of your motor +car. It is one thing to take on such beasts in the hurry of +surprise, the excitement of a charge, or to stalk up to within a +respectable range of them with a gun at ready. But this +deliberate sneaking up with the hope of being able to sneak away +again was a little too slow and cold-blooded. It made me nervous. +I liked it, but I knew at the time I was going to like it a whole +lot better when it was triumphantly over. + +We were now within twenty yards (they were standing starboard +side on), and I prepared to get my picture. To do so I would +either have to step quietly out into sight, trusting to the +shadow and the slowness of my movements to escape observation, or +hold the camera above the bush, directing it by guess work. It +was a little difficult to decide. I knew what I OUGHT to do- + +Without the slightest premonitory warning those two brutes +snorted and whirled in their tracks to stand facing in our +direction. After the dead stillness they made a tremendous row, +what with the jerky suddenness of their movements, their loud +snorts, and the avalanche of echoing stones and boulders they +started down the hill. + +This was the magnificent opportunity. At this point I should +boldly have stepped out from behind my bush, levelled my trusty +3A, and coolly snapped the beasts, "charging at fifteen yards." +Then, if B.'s and F.'s shots went absolutely true, or if the +brutes didn't happen to smash the camera as well as me, I, or my +executors as the case might be, would have had a fine picture. + +But I didn't. I dropped that expensive 3A Special on some hard +rocks, and grabbed my rifle from Memba Sasa. If you want really +to know why, go confront your motor car at fifteen or twenty +paces, multiply him by two, and endow him with an eagerly +malicious disposition. + +They advanced several yards, halted, faced us for perhaps five or +six seconds, uttered snort, whirled with the agility of polo +ponies, departed at a swinging trot and with surprising agility +along the steep side hill. + +I recovered the camera, undamaged, and we continued our climb. + +The top of the mesa was disappointing as far as game was +concerned. It was covered all over with red stones, round, and as +large as a man's head. Thornbushes found some sort of sustenance +in the interstices. + +But we had gained to a magnificent view. Below us lay the narrow +flat, then the winding jungle of our river, then long rolling +desert country, gray with thorn scrub, sweeping upward to the +base of castellated buttes and one tremendous riven cliff +mountain, dropping over the horizon to a very distant blue range. +Behind us eight or ten miles away was the low ridge through which +our journey had come. The mesa on which we stood broke back at +right angles to admit another stream flowing into our own. Beyond +this stream were rolling hills, and scrub country, the hint of +blue peaks and illimitable distances falling away to the unknown +Tara Desert and the sea. + +There seemed to be nothing much to be gained here, so we made up +our minds to cut across the mesa, and from the other edge of it +to overlook the valley of the tributary river. This we would +descend until we came to our horses. + +Accordingly we stumbled across a mile or so of those round and +rolling stones. Then we found ourselves overlooking a wide flat +or pocket where the stream valley widened. It extended even as +far as the upward fling of the barrier ranges. Thick scrub +covered it, but erratically, so that here and there were little +openings or thin places. We sat down, manned our trusty prism +glasses, and gave ourselves to the pleasing occupation of looking +the country over inch by inch. + +This is great fun. It is a game a good deal like puzzle pictures. +Re-examination generally develops new and unexpected beasts. We +repeated to each other aloud the results of our scrutiny, always +without removing the glasses from our eyes. + +"Oryx, one," said F.; "oryx, two." + +"Giraffe," reported B., "and a herd of impalla." + +I saw another giraffe, and another oryx, then two rhinoceroses. + +The three bearers squatted on their heels behind us, their fierce +eyes staring straight ahead, seeing with the naked eye what we +were finding with six-power glasses. + +We turned to descend the hill. In the very centre of the deep +shade of a clump of trees, I saw the gleam of a waterbuck's +horns. While I was telling of this, the beast stepped from his +concealment, trotted a short distance upstream and turned to +climb a little ridge parallel to that by which we were +descending. About halfway up he stopped, staring in our +direction, his head erect, the slight ruff under his neck +standing forward. He was a good four hundred yards away. B., who +wanted him, decided the shot too chancy. He and F. slipped +backward until they had gained the cover of the little ridge, +then hastened down the bed of the ravine. Their purpose was to +follow the course already taken by the waterbuck until they +should have sneaked within better range. In the meantime I and +the gunbearers sat down in full view of the buck. This was to +keep his attention distracted. + +We sat there a long time. The buck never moved but continued to +stare at what evidently puzzled him. Time passes very slowly in +such circumstances, and it seemed incredible that the beast +should continue much longer to hold his fixed attitude. +Nevertheless B. and F. were working hard. We caught glimpses of +them occasionally slipping from bush to bush. Finally B. knelt +and levelled his rifle. At once I turned my glasses on the buck. +Before the sound of the rifle had reached me, I saw him start +convulsively, then make off at the tearing run that indicates a +heart hit. A moment later the crack of the rifle and the dull +plunk of the hitting bullet struck my ear. + +We tracked him fifty yards to where he lay dead. He was a fine +trophy, and we at once set the boys to preparing it and taking +the meat. In the meantime we sauntered down to look at the +stream. It was a small rapid affair, but in heavy papyrus, with +sparse trees, and occasional thickets, and dry hard banks. The +papyrus should make a good lurking place for almost anything; but +the few points of access to the water failed to show many +interesting tracks. Nevertheless we decided to explore a short +distance. + +For an hour we walked among high thornbushes, over baking hot +earth. We saw two or three dik-dik and one of the giraffes. At +that time it had become very hot, and the sun was bearing down on +us as with the weight of a heavy hand. The air had the scorching, +blasting quality of an opened furnace door. Our mouths were +getting dry and sticky in that peculiar stage of thirst on which +no luke-warm canteen water in necessarily limited quantity has +any effect. So we turned back, picked up the men with the +waterbuck, and plodded on down the little stream, or, rather, on +the red-hot dry valley bottom outside the stream's course, to +where the syces were waiting with our horses. We mounted with +great thankfulness. It was now eleven o'clock, and we considered +our day as finished. + +The best way for a distance seemed to follow the course of the +tributary stream to its point of junction with our river. We rode +along, rather relaxed in the suffocating heat. F. was nearest the +stream. At one point it freed itself of trees and brush and ran +clear, save for low papyrus, ten feet down below a steep eroded +bank. F. looked over and uttered a startled exclamation. I +spurred my horse forward to see. + +Below us, about fifteen yards away, was the carcass of a +waterbuck half hidden in the foot-high grass. A lion and two +lionesses stood upon it, staring up at us with great yellow eyes. +That picture is a very vivid one in my memory, for those were the +first wild lions I had ever seen. My most lively impression was +of their unexpected size. They seemed to bulk fully a third +larger than my expectation. + +The magnificent beasts stood only long enough to see clearly what +had disturbed them, then turned, and in two bounds had gained the +shelter of the thicket. + +Now the habit in Africa is to let your gunbearers carry all your +guns. You yourself stride along hand free. It is an English idea, +and is pretty generally adopted out there by every one, of +whatever nationality. They will explain it to you by saying that +in such a climate a man should do only necessary physical work, +and that a good gunbearer will get a weapon into your hand so +quickly and in so convenient a position that you will lose no +time. I acknowledge the gunbearers are sometimes very skilful at +this, but I do deny that there is no loss of time. The instant of +distracted attention while receiving a weapon, the necessity of +recollecting the nervous correlations after the transfer, very +often mark just the difference between a sure instinctive +snapshot and a lost opportunity. It reasons that the man with the +rifle in his hand reacts instinctively, in one motion, to get his +weapon into play. If the gunbearer has the gun, HE must first +react to pass it up, the master must receive it properly, and +THEN, and not until then, may go on from where the other man +began. As for physical labour in the tropics: if a grown man +cannot without discomfort or evil effects carry an eight-pound +rifle, he is too feeble to go out at all. In a long Western +experience I have learned never to be separated from my weapon; +and I believe the continuance of this habit in Africa saved me a +good number of chances. + +At any rate, we all flung ourselves off our horses. I, having my +rifle in my hand, managed to throw a shot after the biggest lion +as he vanished. It was a snap at nothing, and missed. Then in an +opening on the edge a hundred yards away appeared one of the +lionesses. She was trotting slowly, and on her I had time to draw +a hasty aim. At the shot she bounded high in the air, fell, +rolled over, and was up and into the thicket before I had much +more than time to pump up another shell from the magazine. Memba +Sasa in his eagerness got in the way-the first and last time he +ever made a mistake in the field. + +By this time the others had got hold of their weapons. We fronted +the blank face of the thicket. + +The wounded animal would stand a little waiting. We made a wide +circle to the other side of the stream. There we quickly picked +up the trail of the two uninjured beasts. They had headed +directly over the hill, where we speedily lost all trace of them +on the flint-like surface of the ground. We saw a big pack of +baboons in the only likely direction for a lion to go. Being thus +thrown back on a choice of a hundred other unlikely directions, +we gave up that slim chance and returned to the thicket. + +This proved to be a very dense piece of cover. Above the height +of the waist the interlocking branches would absolutely prevent +any progress, but by stooping low we could see dimly among the +simpler main stems to a distance of perhaps fifteen or twenty +feet. This combination at once afforded the wounded lioness +plenty of cover in which to hide, plenty of room in which to +charge home, and placed us under the disadvantage of a crouched +or crawling attitude with limited vision. We talked the matter +over very thoroughly. There was only one way to get that lioness +out; and that was to go after her. The job of going after her +needed some planning. The lion is cunning and exceeding fierce. A +flank attack, once we were in the thicket, was as much to be +expected as a frontal charge. + +We advanced to the thicket's edge with many precautions. To our +relief we found she had left us a definite trail. B. and I +kneeling took up positions on either side, our rifles ready. F. +and Simba crawled by inches eight or ten feet inside the thicket. +Then, having executed this manoeuvre safely, B. moved up to +protect our rear while I, with Memba Sasa, slid down to join F. + +>From this point we moved forward alternately. I would crouch, all +alert, my rifle ready, while F. slipped by me and a few feet +ahead. Then he get organized for battle while I passed him. Memba +Sasa and Simba, game as badgers, their fine eyes gleaming with +excitement, their faces shining, crept along at the rear. B. knelt +outside the thicket, straining his eyes for the slightest +movement either side of the line of our advance. Often these wily +animals will sneak back in a half circle to attack their pursuers +from behind. Two or three of the bolder porters crouched +alongside B., peering eagerly. The rest had quite properly +retired to the safe distance where the horses stood. + +We progressed very, very slowly. Every splash of light or mottled +shadow, every clump of bush stems, every fallen log had to be +examined, and then examined again. And how we did strain our eyes +in a vain attempt to penetrate the half lights, the duskinesses +of the closed-in thicket not over fifteen feet away! And then the +movement forward of two feet would bring into our field of vision +an entirely new set of tiny vistas and possible lurking places. + +Speaking for myself, I was keyed up to a tremendous tension. I +stared until my eyes ached; every muscle and nerve was taut. +Everything depended on seeing the beast promptly, and firing +quickly. With the manifest advantage of being able to see us, she +would spring to battle fully prepared. A yellow flash and a quick +shot seemed about to size up that situation. Every few moments, I +remember, I surreptitiously held out my hand to see if the +constantly growing excitement and the long-continued strain had +affected its steadiness. + +The combination of heat and nervous strain was very exhausting. +The sweat poured from me; and as F. passed me I saw the great +drops standing out on his face. My tongue got dry, my breath came +laboriously. Finally I began to wonder whether physically I +should be able to hold out. We had been crawling, it seemed, for +hours. I dared not look back, but we must have come a good +quarter mile. Finally F. stopped. + +"I'm all in for water," he gasped in a whisper. + +Somehow that confession made me feel a lot better. I had thought +that I was the only one. Cautiously we settled back on our heels. +Memba Sasa and Simba wiped the sweat from their faces. It seemed +that they too had found the work severe. That cheered me up still +more. + +Simba grinned at us, and, worming his way backward with the +sinuousity of a snake, he disappeared in the direction from which +we had come. F. cursed after him in a whisper both for departing +and for taking the risk. But in a moment he had returned carrying +two canteens of blessed water. We took a drink most gratefully. + +I glanced at my watch. It was just under two hours since I had +fired my shot. I looked back. My supposed quarter mile had shrunk +to not over fifty feet! + +After resting a few moments longer, we again took up our +systematic advance. We made perhaps another fifty feet. We were +ascending a very gentle slope. F. was for the moment ahead. Right +before us the lion growled; a deep rumbling like the end of a +great thunder roll, fathoms and fathoms deep, with the inner +subterranean vibrations of a heavy train of cars passing a man +inside a sealed building. At the same moment over F.'s shoulder I +saw a huge yellow head rise up, the round eyes flashing anger, +the small black-tipped ears laid back, the great fangs snarling. +The beast was not over twelve feet distant. F. immediately fired. +His shot, hitting an intervening twig, went wild. With the utmost +coolness he immediately pulled the other trigger of his double +barrel. The cartridge snapped. + +"If you will kindly stoop down-" said I, in what I now remember +to be rather an exaggeratedly polite tone. As F.'s head +disappeared, I placed the little gold bead of my 405 Winchester +where I thought it would do the most good, and pulled trigger. +She rolled over dead. + +The whole affair had begun and finished with unbelievable +swiftness. From the growl to the fatal shot I don't suppose four +seconds elapsed, for our various actions had followed one another +with the speed of the instinctive. The lioness had growled at our +approach, had raised her head to charge, and had received her +deathblow before she had released her muscles in the spring. +There had been no time to get frightened. + +We sat back for a second. A brown hand reached over my shoulder. + +"Mizouri-mizouri sana!" cried Memba Sasa joyously. I shook the +hand. + +"Good business!" said F. "Congratulate you on your first lion." + +We then remembered B., and shouted to him that all was over. He +and the other men wriggled in to where we were lying. He made +this distance in about fifteen seconds. It had taken us nearly an +hour. + +We had the lioness dragged out into the open. She was not an +especially large beast, as compared to most of the others I +killed later, but at that time she looked to me about as big as +they made them. As a matter of fact she was quite big enough, for +she stood three feet two inches at the shoulder-measure that +against the wall-and was seven feet and six inches in length. My +first bullet had hit her leg, and the last had reached her heart. + +Every one shook me by the hand. The gunbearers squatted about +the carcass, skilfully removing the skin to an undertone of +curious crooning that every few moments broke out into one or two +bars of a chant. As the body was uncovered, the men crouched +about to cut off little pieces of fat. These they rubbed on their +foreheads and over their chests, to make them brave, they said, +and cunning, like the lion. + +We remounted and took up our interrupted journey to camp. It was +a little after two, and the heat was at its worst. We rode rather +sleepily, for the reaction from the high tension of excitement +had set in. Behind us marched the three gunbearers, all abreast, +very military and proud. Then came the porters in single file, +the one carrying the folded lion skin leading the way; those +bearing the waterbuck trophy and meat bringing up the rear. They +kept up an undertone of humming in a minor key; occasionally +breaking into a short musical phrase in full voice. + +We rode an hour. The camp looked very cool and inviting under its +wide high trees, with the river slipping by around the islands of +papyrus. A number of black heads bobbed about in the shallows. +The small fires sent up little wisps of smoke. Around them our +boys sprawled, playing simple games, mending, talking, roasting +meat. Their tiny white tents gleamed pleasantly among the cool +shadows. + +I had thought of riding nonchalantly up to our own tents, of +dismounting with a careless word of greeting- + +"Oh, yes," I would say, "we did have a good enough day. Pretty +hot. Roy got a fine waterbuck. Yes, I got a lion." (Tableau on +part of Billy.) + +But Memba Sasa used up all the nonchalance there was. As we +entered camp he remarked casually to the nearest man. + +"Bwana na piga simba-the master has killed a lion." + +The man leaped to his feet. + +"Simba! simba! simba!" he yelled. "Na piga simba!" + +Every one in camp also leaped to his feet, taking up the cry. +>From the water it was echoed as the bathers scrambled ashore. The +camp broke into pandemonium. We were surrounded by a dense +struggling mass of men. They reached up scores of black hands to +grasp my own; they seized from me everything portable and bore it +in triumph before me-my water bottle, my rifle, my camera, my +whip, my field glasses, even my hat, everything that was +detachable. Those on the outside danced and lifted up their +voices in song, improvised for the most part, and in honor of the +day's work. In a vast swirling, laughing, shouting, triumphant +mob we swept through the camp to where Billy-by now not very +much surprised-was waiting to get the official news. By the +measure of this extravagant joy could we gauge what the killing +of a lion means to these people who have always lived under the +dread of his rule. + + + +X. LIONS + +A very large lion I killed stood three feet and nine inches at +the withers, and of course carried his head higher than that. The +top of the table at which I sit is only two feet three inches +from the floor. Coming through the door at my back that lion's +head would stand over a foot higher than halfway up. Look at your +own writing desk; your own door. Furthermore, he was nine feet +and eleven inches in a straight line from nose to end of tail, or +over eleven feet along the contour of the back. If he were to +rise on his hind feet to strike a man down, he would stand +somewhere between seven and eight feet tall, depending on how +nearly he straightened up. He weighed just under six hundred +pounds, or as much as four well-grown specimens of our own +"mountain lion." I tell you this that you may realize, as I did +not, the size to which a wild lion grows. Either menagerie +specimens are stunted in growth, or their position and +surroundings tend to belittle them, for certainly until a man +sees old Leo in the wilderness he has not understood what a fine +old chap he is. + +This tremendous weight is sheer strength. A lion's carcass when +the skin is removed is a really beautiful sight. The great +muscles lie in ropes and bands; the forearm thicker than a man's +leg, the lithe barrel banded with brawn; the flanks overlaid by +the long thick muscles. And this power is instinct with the +nervous force of a highly organized being. The lion is quick and +intelligent and purposeful; so that he brings to his intenser +activities the concentration of vivid passion, whether of anger, +of hunger or of desire. + +So far the opinions of varied experience will jog along together. +At this point they diverge. + +Just as the lion is one of the most interesting and fascinating +of beasts, so concerning him one may hear the most diverse +opinions. This man will tell you that any lion is always +dangerous. Another will hold the king of beasts in the most utter +contempt as a coward and a skulker. + +In the first place, generalization about any species of animal is +an exceedingly dangerous thing. I believe that, in the case of +the higher animals at least, the differences in individual +temperament are quite likely to be more numerous than the +specific likenesses. Just as individual men are bright or dull, +nervous or phlegmatic, cowardly or brave, so individual animals +vary in like respect. Our own hunters will recall from their +personal experiences how the big bear may have sat down and +bawled harmlessly for mercy, while the little unconsidered fellow +did his best until finished off: how one buck dropped instantly +to a wound that another would carry five miles: how of two +equally matched warriors of the herd one will give way in the +fight, while still uninjured, before his perhaps badly wounded +antagonist. The casual observer might-and often does-say that +all bears are cowardly, all bucks are easily killed, or the +reverse, according as the god of chance has treated him to one +spectacle or the other. As well try to generalize on the human +race-as is a certain ecclesiastical habit-that all men are vile +or noble, dishonest or upright, wise or foolish. + +The higher we go in the scale the truer this individualism holds. +We are forced to reason not from the bulk of observations, but +from their averages. If we find ten bucks who will go a mile +wounded to two who succumb in their tracks from similar hurts, we +are justified in saying tentatively that the species is tenacious +of life. But as experience broadens we may modify that statement; +for strange indeed are runs of luck. + +For this reason a good deal of the wise conclusion we read in +sportsmen's narratives is worth very little. Few men have +experience enough with lions to rise to averages through the +possibilities of luck. ESPECIALLY is this true of lions. No beast +that roams seems to go more by luck than felis leo. Good hunters +may search for years without seeing hide nor hair of one of the +beasts. Selous, one of the greatest, went to East Africa for the +express purpose of getting some of the fine beasts there, hunted +six weeks and saw none. Holmes of the Escarpment has lived in the +country six years, has hunted a great deal and has yet to kill +his first. One of the railroad officials has for years gone up +and down the Uganda Railway on his handcar, his rifle ready in +hopes of the lion that never appeared; though many are there seen +by those with better fortune. Bronson hunted desperately for this +great prize, but failed. Rainsford shot no lions his first trip, +and ran into them only three years later. Read Abel Chapman's +description of his continued bad luck at even seeing the beasts. +MacMillan, after five years' unbroken good fortune, has in the +last two years failed to kill a lion, although he has made many +trips for the purpose. F. told me he followed every rumour of a +lion for two years before he got one. Again, one may hear the +most marvellous of yarns the other way about-of the German who +shot one from the train on the way up from Mombasa; of the young +English tenderfoot who, the first day out, came on three asleep, +across a river, and potted the lot; and so on. The point is, that +in the case of lions the element of sheer chance seems to begin +earlier and last longer than is the case with any other beast. +And, you must remember, experience must thrust through the luck +element to the solid ground of averages before it can have much +value in the way of generalization. Before he has reached that +solid ground, a man's opinions depend entirely on what kind of +lions he chances to meet, in what circumstances, and on how +matters happen to shape in the crowded moments. + +But though lack of sufficiently extended experience has much to +do with these decided differences of opinion, I believe that +misapprehension has also its part. The sportsman sees lions on +the plains. Likewise the lions see him, and promptly depart to +thick cover or rocky butte. He comes on them in the scrub; they +bound hastily out of sight. He may even meet them face to face, +but instead of attacking him, they turn to right and left and +make off in the long grass. When he follows them, they sneak +cunningly away. If, added to this, he has the good luck to kill +one or two stone dead at a single shot each, he begins to think +there is not much in lion shooting after all, and goes home +proclaiming the king of beasts a skulking coward. + +After all, on what grounds does he base this conclusion? In what +way have circumstances been a test of courage at all? The lion +did not stand and fight, to be sure; but why should he? What was +there in it for lions? Behind any action must a motive exist. +Where is the possible motive for any lion to attack on sight? He +does not-except in unusual cases-eat men; nothing has occurred +to make him angry. The obvious thing is to avoid trouble, unless +there is a good reason to seek it. In that one evidences the +lion's good sense, but not his lack of courage. That quality has +not been called upon at all. + +But if the sportsman had done one of two or three things, I am +quite sure he would have had a taste of our friend's mettle. If +he had shot at and even grazed the beast; if he had happened upon +him where an exit was not obvious; or IF HE HAD EVEN FOLLOWED THE +LION UNTIL THE LATTER HAD BECOME TIRED OF THE ANNOYANCE, +he would very soon have discovered that Leo is not all good nature, +and that once on his courage will take him in against any odds. +Furthermore, he may be astonished and dismayed to discover that +of a group of several lions, two or three besides the wounded +animal are quite likely to take up the quarrel and charge too. In +other words, in my opinion, the lion avoids trouble when he can, +not from cowardice but from essential indolence or good nature; +but does not need to be cornered* to fight to the death when in +his mind his dignity is sufficiently assailed. + +*This is an important distinction in estimating the inherent +courage of man or beast. Even a mouse will fight when cornered. + + +For of all dangerous beasts the lion, when once aroused, will +alone face odds to the end. The rhinoceros, the elephant, and +even the buffalo can often be turned aside by a shot. A lion +almost always charges home.* Slower and slower he comes, as the +bullets strike; but he comes, until at last he may be just +hitching himself along, his face to the enemy, his fierce spirit +undaunted. When finally he rolls over, he bites the earth in +great mouthfuls; and so passes fighting to the last. The death of +a lion is a fine sight. + +*I seem to be generalizing here, but all these conclusions must +be understood to take into consideration the liability of +individual variation. + + +No, I must confess, to me the lion is an object of great respect; +and so, I gather, he is to all who have had really extensive +experience. Those like Leslie Tarleton, Lord Delamere, W. N. +MacMillan, Baron von Bronsart, the Hills, Sir Alfred Pease, who +are great lion men, all concede to the lion a courage and +tenacity unequalled by any other living beast. My own experience +is of course nothing as compared to that of these men. Yet I saw +in my nine months afield seventy-one lions. None of these offered +to attack when unwounded or not annoyed. On the other hand, only +one turned tail once the battle was on, and she proved to be a +three quarters grown lioness, sick and out of condition. + +It is of course indubitable that where lions have been much shot +they become warier in the matter of keeping out of trouble. They +retire to cover earlier in the morning, and they keep more than +a perfunctory outlook for the casual human being. When hunters +first began to go into the Sotik the lions there would stand +imperturbable, staring at the intruder with curiosity or +indifference. Now they have learned that such performances are +not healthy-and they have probably satisfied their curiosity. +But neither in the Sotik, nor even in the plains around Nairobi +itself, does the lion refuse the challenge once it has been put +up to him squarely. Nor does he need to be cornered. He charges +in quite blithely from the open plain, once convinced that you +are really an annoyance. + +As to habits! The only sure thing about a lion is his +originality. He has more exceptions to his rules than the German +language. Men who have been mighty lion hunters for many years, +and who have brought to their hunting close observation, can only +tell you what a lion MAY do in certain circumstances. Following +very broad principles, they may even predict what he is APT to +do, but never what he certainly WILL do. That is one thing that +makes lion hunting interesting. + +In general, then, the lion frequents that part of the country +where feed the great game herds. From them he takes his toll by +night, retiring during the day into the shallow ravines, the +brush patches, or the rocky little buttes. I have, however, seen +lions miles from game, slumbering peacefully atop an ant hill. +Indeed, occasionally, a pack of lions likes to live high in the +tall-grass ridges where every hunt will mean for them a four- or +five-mile jaunt out and back again. He needs water, after +feeding, and so rarely gets farther than eight or ten miles from +that necessity. + +He hunts at night. This is as nearly invariable a rule as can be +formulated in regard to lions. Yet once, and perhaps twice, I saw +lionesses stalking through tall grass as early as three o'clock +in the afternoon. This eagerness may, or may not, have had to do +with the possession of hungry cubs. The lion's customary +harmlessness in the daytime is best evidenced, however, by the +comparative indifference of the game to his presence then. From a +hill we watched three of these beasts wandering leisurely across +the plains below. A herd of kongonis feeding directly in their +path, merely moved aside right and left, quite deliberately, to +leave a passage fifty yards or so wide, but otherwise paid not +the slightest attention. I have several times seen this +incident, or a modification of it. And yet, conversely, on a +number of occasions we have received our first intimation of the +presence of lions by the wild stampeding of the game away from a +certain spot. + +However, the most of his hunting is done by dark. Between the +hours of sundown and nine o'clock he and his comrades may be +heard uttering the deep coughing grunt typical of this time of +night. These curious, short, far-sounding calls may be mere +evidences of intention, or they may be a sort of signal by means +of which the various hunters keep in touch. After a little they +cease. Then one is quite likely to hear the petulant, alarmed +barking of zebra, or to feel the vibrations of many hoofs. There +is a sense of hurried, flurried uneasiness abroad on the veldt. + +The lion generally springs on his prey from behind or a little +off the quarter. By the impetus his own weight he hurls his +victim forward, doubling its head under, and very neatly breaking +its neck. I have never seen this done, but the process has been +well observed and attested; and certainly, of the many hundreds +of lion kills I have taken the pains to inspect, the majority had +had their necks broken. Sometimes, but apparently more rarely, +the lion kills its prey by a bite in the back of the neck. I have +seen zebra killed in this fashion, but never any of the buck. It +may be possible that the lack of horns makes it more difficult to +break a zebra's neck because of the corresponding lack of +leverage when its head hits the ground sidewise; the instances I +have noted may have been those in which the lion's spring landed +too far back to throw the victim properly; or perhaps they were +merely examples of the great variability in the habits of felis +leo. + +Once the kill is made, the lion disembowels the beast very neatly +indeed, and drags the entrails a few feet out of the way. He then +eats what he wants, and, curiously enough, seems often to be very +fond of the skin. In fact, lacking other evidence, it is +occasionally possible to identify a kill as being that of a lion +by noticing whether any considerable portion of the hide has been +devoured. After eating he drinks. Then he is likely to do one of +two things: either he returns to cover near the carcass and lies +down, or he wanders slowly and with satisfaction toward his happy +home. In the latter case the hyenas, jackals, and carrion birds +seize their chance. The astute hunter can often diagnose the +case by the general actions and demeanour of these camp +followers. A half dozen sour and disgusted looking hyenas seated +on their haunches at scattered intervals, and treefuls of +mournfully humpbacked vultures sunk in sadness, indicate that the +lion has decided to save the rest of his zebra until to-morrow +and is not far away. On the other hand, a grand flapping, +snarling Kilkenny-fair of an aggregation swirling about one spot +in the grass means that the principal actor has gone home. + +It is ordinarily useless to expect to see the lion actually on +his prey. The feeding is done before dawn, after which the lion +enjoys stretching out in the open until the sun is well up, and +then retiring to the nearest available cover. Still, at the risk +of seeming to be perpetually qualifying, I must instance finding +three lions actually on the stale carcass of a waterbuck at +eleven o'clock in the morning of a piping hot day! In an +undisturbed country, or one not much hunted, the early morning +hours up to say nine o'clock are quite likely to show you lions +sauntering leisurely across the open plains toward their lairs. +They go a little, stop a little, yawn, sit down a while, and +gradually work their way home. At those times you come upon them +unexpectedly face to face, or, seeing them from afar, ride them +down in a glorious gallop. Where the country has been much +hunted, however, the lion learns to abandon his kill and seek +shelter before daylight, and is almost never seen abroad. Then +one must depend on happening upon him in his cover. + +In the actual hunting of his game the lion is apparently very +clever. He understands the value of cooperation. Two or more will +manoeuvre very skilfully to give a third the chance to make an +effective spring; whereupon the three will share the kill. In a +rough country, or one otherwise favourable to the method, a pack +of lions will often deliberately drive game into narrow ravines +or cul de sacs where the killers are waiting. + +At such times the man favoured by the chance of an encampment +within five miles or so can hear a lion's roar. + +Otherwise I doubt if he is apt often to get the full-voiced, +genuine article. The peculiar questioning cough of early evening +is resonant and deep in vibration, but it is a call rather than a +roar. No lion is fool enough to make a noise when he is stalking. +Then afterward, when full fed, individuals may open up a few +times, but only a few times, in sheer satisfaction, apparently, +at being well fed. The menagerie row at feeding time, formidable +as it sounds within the echoing walls, is only a mild and gentle +hint. But when seven or eight lions roar merely to see how much +noise they can make, as when driving game, or trying to stampede +your oxen on a wagon trip, the effect is something tremendous. +The very substance of the ground vibrates; the air shakes. I can +only compare it to the effect of a very large deep organ in a +very small church. There is something genuinely awe-inspiring +about it; and when the repeated volleys rumble into silence, one +can imagine the veldt crouched in a rigid terror that shall +endure. + + + +XI. LIONS AGAIN + +As to the dangers of lion hunting it is also difficult to write. +There is no question that a cool man, using good judgment as to +just what he can or cannot do, should be able to cope with lion +situations. The modern rifle is capable of stopping the beast, +provided the bullet goes to the right spot. The right spot is +large enough to be easy to hit, if the shooter keeps cool. Our +definition of a cool man must comprise the elements of steady +nerves under super-excitement, the ability to think quickly and +clearly, and the mildly strategic quality of being able to make +the best use of awkward circumstances. Such a man, barring sheer +accidents, should be able to hunt lions with absolute certainty +for just as long as he does not get careless, slipshod or +over-confident. Accidents-real accidents, not merely unexpected +happenings-are hardly to be counted. They can occur in your own +house. + +But to the man not temperamentally qualified, lion shooting is +dangerous enough. The lion, when he takes the offensive, intends +to get his antagonist. Having made up his mind to that, he +charges home, generally at great speed. The realization that it +is the man's life or the beast's is disconcerting. Also the +charging lion is a spectacle much more awe-inspiring in reality +than the most vivid imagination can predict. He looks very large, +very determined, and has uttered certain rumbling, blood-curdling +threats as to what he is going to do about it. It suddenly seems +most undesirable to allow that lion to come any closer, not even +an inch! A hasty, nervous shot misses- + +An unwounded lion charging from a distance is said to start +rather slowly, and to increase his pace only as he closes. +Personally I have never been charged by an unwounded beast, but I +can testify that the wounded animal comes very fast. Cuninghame +puts the rate at about seven seconds to the hundred yards. +Certainly I should say that a man charged from fifty yards or so +would have little chance for a second shot, provided he missed +the first. A hit seemed, in my experience, to the animal, by +sheer force of impact, long enough to permit me to throw in +another cartridge. A lioness thus took four frontal bullets +starting at about sixty yards. An initial miss would probably +have permitted her to close. + +Here, as can be seen, is a great source of danger to a flurried +or nervous beginner. He does not want that lion to get an inch +nearer; he fires at too long a range, misses, and is killed or +mauled before he can reload. This happened precisely so to two +young friends of MacMillan. They were armed with double-rifles, +let them off hastily as the beast started at them from two +hundred yards, and never got another chance. If they had +possessed the experience to have waited until the lion had come +within fifty yards they would have had the almost certainty of +four barrels at close range. Though I have seen a lion missed +clean well inside those limits. + +>From such performances are so-called lion accidents built. During +my stay in Africa I heard of six white men being killed by lions, +and a number of others mauled. As far as possible I tried to +determine the facts of each case. In every instance the trouble +followed either foolishness or loss of nerve. I believe I should +be quite safe in saying that from identically the same +circumstances any of the good lion men-Tarleton, Lord Delamere, +the Hills, and others-would have extricated themselves unharmed. + +This does not mean that accidents may not happen. Rifles jam, but +generally because of flurried manipulation! One may unexpectedly +meet the lion at too close quarters; a foot may slip, or a +cartridge prove defective. So may one fall downstairs or bump +one's head in the dark. Sufficient forethought and alertness and +readiness would go far in either case to prevent bad results. + +The wounded beast, of course, offers the most interesting problem +to the lion hunter. If it sees the hunter, it is likely to charge +him at once. If hit while making off, however, it is more apt to +take cover. Then one must summon all his good sense and nerve to +get it out. No rules can be given for this; nor am I trying to +write a text book for lion hunters. Any good lion hunter knows a +lot more about it than I do. But always a man must keep in mind +three things: that a lion can hide in cover so short that it +seems to the novice as though a jack-rabbit would find scant +concealment there; that he charges like lightning, and that he +can spring about fifteen feet. This spring, coming unexpectedly +from an unseen beast, is about impossible to avoid. Sheer luck +may land a fatal shot; but even then the lion will probably do +his damage before he dies. The rush from a short distance a good +quick shot ought to be able to cope with. + +Therefore the wise hunter assures himself of at least twenty +feet-preferably more-of neutral zone all about him. No matter +how long it takes, he determines absolutely that the lion is not +within that distance. The rest is alertness and quickness. + +As I have said, the amount of cover necessary to conceal a lion +is astonishingly small. He can flatten himself out surprisingly; +and his tawny colour blends so well with the brown grasses that +he is practically invisible. A practised man does not, of course, +look for lions at all. He is after unusual small patches, +especially the black ear tips or the black of the mane. Once +guessed at, it is interesting to see how quickly the hitherto +unsuspected animal sketches itself out in the cover. + +I should, before passing on to another aspect of the matter, +mention the dangerous poisons carried by the lion's claws. Often +men have died from the most trivial surface wounds. The grooves +of the claws carry putrefying meat from the kills. Every sensible +man in a lion country carries a small syringe, and either +permanganate or carbolic. And those mild little remedies he uses +full strength! + +The great and overwhelming advantage is of course with the +hunter. He possesses as deadly a weapon: and that weapon will +kill at a distance. This is proper, I think. There are more lions +than hunters; and, from our point of view, the man is more +important than the beast. The game is not too hazardous. By that +I mean that, barring sheer accident, a man is sure to come out +all right provided he does accurately the right thing. In other +words, it is a dangerous game of skill, but it does not possess +the blind danger of a forest in a hurricane, say. Furthermore, it +is a game that no man need play unless he wants to. In the lion +country he may go about his business-daytime business-as though +he were home at the farm. + +Such being the case, may I be pardoned for intruding one of my +own small ethical ideas at this point, with the full realization +that it depends upon an entirely personal point of view. As far +as my own case goes, I consider it poor sportsmanship ever to +refuse a lion-chance merely because the advantages are not all in +my favour. After all, lion hunting is on a different plane from +ordinary shooting: it is a challenge to war, a deliberate seeking +for mortal combat. Is it not just a little shameful to pot old +felis leo at long range, in the open, near his kill, and wherever +we have him at an advantage-nine times, and then to back out +because that advantage is for once not so marked? I have so often +heard the phrase, "I let him (or them) alone. It was not good +enough," meaning that the game looked a little risky. + +Do not misunderstand. I am not advising that you bull ahead into +the long grass, or that alone you open fire on a half dozen lions +in easy range. Kind providence endowed you with strategy, and +certainly you should never go in where there is no show for you +to use your weapon effectively. But occasionally the odds will be +against you and you will be called upon to take more or less of a +chance. I do not think it is quite square to quit playing merely +because for once your opponent has been dealt the better cards. +If here are too many of them see if you cannot manoeuvre them; if +the grass is long, try every means in your power to get them out. +Stay with them. If finally you fail, you will at least have the +satisfaction of knowing that circumstances alone have defeated +you. If you do not like that sort of a game, stay out of it +entirely. + + + +XII. MORE LIONS + +Nor do the last remarks of the preceding chapter mean that you +shall not have your trophy in peace. Perhaps excitement and a +slight doubt as to whether or not you are going to survive do not +appeal to you; but nevertheless you would like a lion skin or so. +By all means shoot one lion, or two, or three in the safest +fashion you can. But after that you ought to play the game. + +The surest way to get a lion is to kill a zebra, cut holes in +him, fill the holes with strychnine, and come back next morning. +This method is absolutely safe. + +The next safest way is to follow the quarry with a pack of +especially trained dogs. The lion is so busy and nervous over +those dogs that you can walk up and shoot him in the ear. This +method has the excitement of riding and following, the joy of a +grand and noisy row, and the fun of seeing a good dog-fight. The +same effect can be got chasing wart-hogs, hyenas, jackals-or +jack-rabbits. The objection is that it wastes a noble beast in an +inferior game. My personal opinion is that no man is justified in +following with dogs any large animal that can be captured with +reasonable certainty without them. The sport of coursing is +another matter; but that is quite the same in essence whatever +the size of the quarry. If you want to kill a lion or so quite +safely, and at the same time enjoy a glorious and exciting gallop +with lots of accompanying row, by all means follow the sport with +hounds. But having killed one or two by that method, quit. Do not +go on and clean up the country. You can do it. Poison and hounds +are the SURE methods of finding any lion there may be about; and +AFTER THE FIRST FEW, one is about as justifiable as the other. If +you want the undoubtedly great joy of cross country pursuit, send +your hounds in after less noble game. + +The third safe method of killing a lion is nocturnal. You lay out +a kill beneath a tree, and climb the tree. Or better, you hitch +out a pig or donkey as live bait. When the lion comes to this +free lunch, you try to see him; and, if you succeed in that, you +try to shoot him. It is not easy to shoot at night; nor is it +easy to see in the dark. Furthermore, lions only occasionally +bother to come to bait. You may roost up that tree many nights +before you get a chance. Once up, you have to stay up; for it is +most decidedly not safe to go home after dark. The tropical night +in the highlands is quite chilly. Branches seem to be quite as +cramping and abrasive under the equator as in the temperate +zones. Still, it is one method. + +Another is to lay out a kill and visit it in the early morning. +There is more to this, for you are afoot, must generally search +out your beast in nearby cover, and can easily find any amount of +excitement in the process. + +The fourth way is to ride the lion. The hunter sees his quarry +returning home across the plains, perhaps; or jumps it from some +small bushy ravine. At once he spurs his horse in pursuit. The +lion will run but a short distance before coming to a stop, for +he is not particularly long either of wind or of patience. From +this stand he almost invariably charges. The astute hunter, still +mounted, turns and flees. When the lion gets tired of chasing, +which he does in a very short time, the hunter faces about. At +last the lion sits down in the grass, waiting for the game to +develop. This is the time for the hunter to dismount and to take +his shot. Quite likely he must now stand a charge afoot, and drop +his beast before it gets to him. + +This is real fun. It has many elements of safety, and many of +danger. + +To begin with, the hunter at this game generally has companions +to back him: often he employs mounted Somalis to round the lion +up and get it to stand. The charging lion is quite apt to make +for the conspicuous mounted men-who can easily escape-ignoring +the hunter afoot. As the game is largely played in the open, the +movements of the beast are easily followed. + +On the other hand, there is room for mistake. The hunter, for +example, should never follow directly in the rear of his lion, +but rather at a parallel course off the beast's flank. Then, if +the lion stops suddenly, the man does not overrun before he can +check his mount. He should never dismount nearer than a hundred +and fifty yards from the embayed animal; and should never try to +get off while the lion is moving in his direction. Then, too, a +hard gallop is not conducive to the best of shooting. It is +difficult to hold the front bead steady; and it is still more +difficult to remember to wait, once the lion charges, until he +has come near enough for a sure shot. A neglect in the inevitable +excitement of the moment to remember these and a dozen other +small matters may quite possibly cause trouble. + +Two or three men together can make this one of the most exciting +mounted games on earth; with enough of the give and take of real +danger and battle to make it worth while. The hunter, however, +who employs a dozen Somalis to ride the beast to a standstill, +after which he goes to the front, has eliminated much of the +thrill. Nor need that man's stay-at-home family feel any +excessive uneasiness over Father Killing Lions in Africa. + +The method that interested me more than any other is one +exceedingly difficult to follow except under favourable +circumstances. I refer to tracking them down afoot. This requires +that your gunbearer should be an expert trailer, for, outside +the fact that following a soft-padded animal over all sorts of +ground is a very difficult thing to do, the hunter should be free +to spy ahead. It is necessary also to possess much patience and +to endure under many disappointments. But on the other hand there +is in this sport a continuous keen thrill to be enjoyed in no +other; and he who single handed tracks down and kills his lion +thus, has well earned the title of shikari-the Hunter. + +And the last method of all is to trust to the God of Chance. The +secret of success is to be always ready to take instant advantage +of what the moment offers. + +An occasional hunting story is good in itself: and the following +will also serve to illustrate what I have just been saying. + +We were after that prize, the greater kudu, and in his pursuit +had penetrated into some very rough country. Our hunting for the +time being was over broad bench, perhaps four or five miles wide, +below a range of mountains. The bench itself broke down in sheer +cliffs some fifteen hundred feet, but one did not appreciate that +fact unless he stood fairly on the edge of the precipice. To all +intents and purposes we were on a rolling grassy plain, with low +hills and cliffs, and a most beautiful little stream running down +it beneath fine trees. + +Up to now our hunting had gained us little beside information: +that kudu had occasionally visited the region, that they had not +been there for a month, and that the direction of their departure +had been obscure. So we worked our way down the stream, trying +out the possibilities. Of other game there seemed to be a fair +supply: impalla, hartebeeste, zebra, eland, buffalo, wart-hog, +sing-sing, and giraffe we had seen. I had secured a wonderful +eland and a very fine impalla, and we had had a gorgeous +close-quarters fight with a cheetah.* Now C. had gone out, a +three weeks' journey, carrying to medical attendance a porter +injured in the cheetah fracas. Billy and I were continuing the +hunt alone. + +*This animal quite disproved the assertion that cheetahs never +assume the aggressive. He charged repeatedly. + + +We had marched two hours, and were pitching camp under a single +tree near the edge of the bench. After seeing everything well +under way, I took the Springfield and crossed the stream, which +here ran in a deep canyon. My object was to see if I could get a +sing-sing that had bounded away at our approach. I did not bother +to take a gunbearer, because I did not expect to be gone five +minutes. + +The canyon proved unexpectedly deep and rough, and the stream up +to my waist. When I had gained the top, I found grass growing +patchily from six inches to two feet high; and small, scrubby +trees from four to ten feet tall, spaced regularly, but very +scattered. These little trees hardly formed cover, but their +aggregation at sufficient distance limited the view. + +The sing-sing had evidently found his way over the edge of the +bench. I turned to go back to camp. A duiker-a small grass +antelope-broke from a little patch of the taller grass, rushed, +head down headlong after their fashion, suddenly changed his +mind, and dashed back again. I stepped forward to see why he had +changed his mind-and ran into two lions! + +They were about thirty yards away, and sat there on their +haunches, side by side, staring at me with expressionless yellow +eyes. I stared back. The Springfield is a good little gun, and +three times before I had been forced to shoot lions with it, but +my real "lion gun" with which I had done best work was the 405 +Winchester. The Springfield is too light for such game. Also +there were two lions, very close. Also I was quite alone. + +As the game stood, it hardly looked like my move; so I held still +and waited. Presently one yawned, they looked at each other, +turned quite leisurely, and began to move away at a walk. + +This was a different matter. If I had fired while the two were +facing me, I should probably have had them both to deal with. But +now that their tails were turned toward me, I should very likely +have to do with only the one: at the crack of the rifle the other +would run the way he was headed. So I took a careful bead at the +lioness and let drive. + +My aim was to cripple the pelvic bone, but, unfortunately, just +as I fired, the beast wriggled lithely sidewise to pass around a +tuft of grass, so that the bullet inflicted merely a slight flesh +wound on the rump. She whirled like a flash, and as she raised +her head high to locate me, I had time to wish that the +Springfield hit a trifle harder blow. Also I had time to throw +another cartridge in the barrel. + +The moment she saw me she dropped her head and charged. She was +thoroughly angry and came very fast. I had just enough time to +steady the gold bead on her chest and to pull trigger. + +At the shot, to my great relief, she turned bottom up, and I saw +her tail for an instant above the grass-an almost sure +indication of a bad hit. She thrashed around, and made a +tremendous hullabaloo of snarls and growls. I backed out slowly, +my rifle ready. It was no place for me, for the grass was over +knee high. + +Once at a safe distance I blazed a tree with my hunting knife and +departed for camp, well pleased to be out of it. At camp I ate +lunch and had a smoke; then with Memba Sasa and Mavrouki returned +to the scene of trouble. I had now the 405 Winchester, a light +and handy weapon delivering a tremendous blow. + +We found the place readily enough. My lioness had recovered from +the first shock and had gone. I was very glad I had gone first. + +The trail was not very plain, but it could be followed a foot or +so at a time, with many faults and casts back. I walked a yard to +one side while the men followed the spoor. Owing to the abundance +of cover it was very nervous work, for the beast might be almost +anywhere, and would certainly charge. We tried to keep a neutral +zone around ourselves by tossing stones ahead of and on both +sides of our line of advance. My own position was not bad, for I +had the rifle ready in my hand, but the men were in danger. Of +course I was protecting them as well as I could, but there was +always a chance that the lioness might spring on them in such a +manner that I would be unable to use my weapon. Once I suggested +that as the work was dangerous, they could quit if they wanted +to. + +"Hapana!" they both refused indignantly. + +We had proceeded thus for half a mile when to our relief, right +ahead of us, sounded the commanding, rumbling half-roar, +half-growl of the lion at bay. + +Instantly Memba Sasa and Mavrouki dropped back to me. We all +peered ahead. One of the boys made her out first, crouched under +a bush thirty-two yards away. Even as I raised the rifle she saw +us and charged. I caught her in the chest before she had come ten +feet. The heavy bullet stopped her dead. Then she recovered and +started forward slowly, very weak, but game to the last. Another +shot finished her. + +The remarkable point of this incident was the action of the +little Springfield bullet. Evidently the very high velocity of +this bullet from its shock to the nervous system had delivered a +paralyzing blow sufficient to knock out the lioness for the time +being. Its damage to tissue, however, was slight. Inasmuch as the +initial shock did not cause immediate death, the lioness +recovered sufficiently to be able, two hours later, to take the +offensive. This point is of the greatest interest to the student +of ballistics; but it is curious to even the ordinary reader. + +That is a very typical example of finding lions by sheer chance. +Generally a man is out looking for the smallest kind of game when +he runs up against them. Now happened to follow an equally +typical example of tracking. + +The next day after the killing of the lioness Memba Sasa, Kongoni +and I dropped off the bench, and hunted greater kudu on a series +of terraces fifteen hundred feet below. All we found were two +rhino, some sing-sing, a heard of impalla, and a tremendous +thirst. In the meantime, Mavrouki had, under orders, scouted the +foothills of the mountain range at the back. He reported none but +old tracks of kudu, but said he had seen eight lions not far from +our encounter of the day before. + +Therefore, as soon next morning as we could see plainly, we again +crossed the canyon and the waist-deep stream. I had with me all +three of the gun men, and in addition two of the most courageous +porters to help with the tracking and the looking. + +About eight o'clock we found the first fresh pad mark plainly +outlined in an isolated piece of soft earth. Immediately we began +that most fascinating of games-trailing over difficult ground. +In this we could all take part, for the tracks were some hours +old, and the cover scanty. Very rarely could we make out more +than three successive marks. Then we had to spy carefully for the +slightest indication of direction. Kongoni in especial was +wonderful at this, and time and again picked up a broken grass +blade or the minutest inch-fraction of disturbed earth. We moved +slowly, in long hesitations and castings about, and in swift +little dashes forward of a few feet; and often we went astray on +false scents, only to return finally to the last certain spot. In +this manner we crossed the little plain with the scattered shrub +trees and arrived at the edge of the low bluff above the stream +bottom. + +This bottom was well wooded along the immediate bank of the +stream itself, fringed with low thick brush, and in the open +spaces grown to the edges with high, green, coarse grass. + +As soon as we had managed to follow without fault to this grass, +our difficulties of trailing were at an end. The lions' heavy +bodies had made distinct paths through the tangle. These paths +went forward sinuously, sometimes separating one from the other, +sometimes intertwining, sometimes combining into one for a short +distance. We could not determine accurately the number of beasts +that had made them. + +"They have gone to drink water," said Memba Sasa. + +We slipped along the twisting paths, alert for indications; came +to the edge of the thicket, stooped through the fringe, and +descended to the stream under the tall trees. The soft earth at +the water's edge was covered with tracks, thickly overlaid one +over the other. The boys felt of the earth, examined, even +smelled, and came to the conclusion that the beasts must have +watered about five o'clock. If so, they might be ten miles away, +or as many rods. + +We had difficulty in determining just where the party left this +place, until finally Kongoni caught sight of suspicious +indications over the way. The lions had crossed the stream. We +did likewise, followed the trail out of the thicket, into the +grass, below the little cliffs parallel to the stream, back into +the thicket, across the river once more, up the other side, in +the thicket for a quarter mile, then out into the grass on that +side, and so on. They were evidently wandering, rather idly, up +the general course of the stream. Certainly, unlike most cats, +they did not mind getting their feet wet, for they crossed the +stream four times. + +At last the twining paths in the shoulder-high grass fanned out +separately. We counted. + +"You were right, Mavrouki," said I, "there were eight." + +At the end of each path was a beaten-down little space where +evidently the beasts had been lying down. With an exclamation the +three gunbearers darted forward to investigate. The lairs were +still warm! Their occupants had evidently made off only at our +approach! + +Not five minutes later we were halted by a low warning growl +right ahead. We stopped. The boys squatted on their heels close +to me, and we consulted in whispers. + +Of course it would be sheer madness to attack eight lions in +grass so high we could not see five feet in front of us. That +went without saying. On the other hand, Mavrouki swore that he +had yesterday seen no small cubs with the band, and our +examination of the tracks made in soft earth seemed to bear him +out. The chances were therefore that, unless themselves attacked +or too close pressed, the lions would not attack us. By keeping +just in their rear we might be able to urge them gently along +until they should enter more open cover. Then we could see. + +Therefore we gave the owner of that growl about five minutes to +forget it, and then advanced very cautiously. We soon found where +the objector had halted, and plainly read by the indications +where he had stood for a moment or so, and then moved on. We +slipped along after. + +For five hours we hung at the heels of that band of lions, moving +very slowly, perfectly willing to halt whenever they told us to, +and going forward again only when we became convinced that they +too had gone on. Except for the first half hour, we were never +more than twenty or thirty yards from the nearest lion, and often +much closer. Three or four times I saw slowly gliding yellow +bodies just ahead of me, but in the circumstances it would have +been sheer stark lunacy to have fired. Probably six or eight +times-I did not count-we were commanded to stop, and we did +stop. + +It was very exciting work, but the men never faltered. Of course +I went first, in case one of the beasts had the toothache or +otherwise did not play up to our calculations on good nature. One +or the other of the gunbearers was always just behind me. Only +once was any comment made. Kongoni looked very closely into my +face. + +"There are very many lions," he remarked doubtfully. + +"Very many lions," I agreed, as though assenting to a mere +statement of fact. + +Although I am convinced there was no real danger, as long as we +stuck to our plan of campaign, nevertheless it was quite +interesting to be for so long a period so near these great +brutes. They led us for a mile or so along the course of the +stream, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the other. Several +times they emerged into better cover, and even into the open, but +always ducked back into the thick again before we ourselves had +followed their trail to the clear. + +At noon we were halted by the usual growl just as we had reached +the edge of the river. So we sat down on the banks and had lunch. + +Finally our chance came. The trail led us, for the dozenth time, +from the high grass into the thicket along the river. We ducked +our heads to enter. Memba Sasa, next my shoulder, snapped his +fingers violently. Following the direction of the brown arm that +shot over my shoulder, I strained my eyes into the dimness of the +thicket. At first I could see nothing at all, but at length a +slight motion drew my eye. Then I made out the silhouette of a +lion's head, facing us steadily. One of the rear guard had again +turned to halt us, but this time where he and his surroundings +could be seen. + +Luckily I always use a Sheard gold bead sight, and even in the +dimness of the tree-shaded thicket it showed up well. The beast +was only forty yards away, so I fired at his head. He rolled over +without a sound. + +We took the usual great precautions in determining the +genuineness of his demise, then carried him into the open. +Strangely enough the bullet had gone so cleanly into his left eye +that it had not even broken the edge of the eyelid; so that when +skinned he did not show a mark. He was a very decent maned lion, +three feet four inches at the shoulder, and nine feet long as he +lay. We found that he had indeed been the rear guard, and that +the rest, on the other side of the thicket, had made off at the +shot. So in spite of the APPARENT danger of the situation, our +calculations had worked out perfectly. Also we had enjoyed a half +day's sport of an intensity quite impossible to be extracted from +any other method of following the lion. + +In trying to guess how any particular lions may act, however, you +will find yourself often at fault. The lion is a very intelligent +and crafty beast, and addicted to tricks. If you follow a lion to +a small hill, it is well to go around that hill on the side +opposite to that taken by your quarry. You are quite likely to +meet him for he is clever enough thus to try to get in your rear. +He will lie until you have actually passed him before breaking +off. He will circle ahead, then back to confuse his trail. And +when you catch sight of him in the distance, you would never +suspect that he knew of your presence at all. He saunters slowly, +apparently aimlessly, along pausing often, evidently too bored to +take any interest in life. You wait quite breathlessly for him to +pass behind cover. Then you are going to make a very rapid +advance, and catch his leisurely retreat. But the moment old Leo +does pass behind the cover, his appearance of idle stroller +vanishes. In a dozen bounds he is gone. + +That is what makes lion hunting delightful. There are some +regions, very near settlements, where it is perhaps justifiable +to poison these beasts. If you are a true sportsman you will +confine your hound-hunting to those districts. Elsewhere, as far +as playing fair with a noble beast is concerned, you may as well +toss a coin to see which you shall take-your pack or a +strychnine bottle. + + + +XIII. ON THE MANAGING OF A SAFARI + +We made our way slowly down the river. As the elevation dropped, +the temperature rose. It was very hot indeed during the day, and +in the evening the air was tepid and caressing, and musical with +the hum of insects. We sat about quite comfortably in our +pajamas, and took our fifteen grains of quinine per week against +the fever. + +The character of the jungle along the river changed +imperceptibly, the dhum palms crowding out the other trees; +until, at our last camp, were nothing but palms. The wind in them +sounded variously like the patter or the gathering onrush of +rain. On either side the country remained unchanged, however. The +volcanic hills rolled away to the distant ranges. Everywhere grew +sparsely the low thornbrush, opening sometimes into clear plains, +closing sometimes into dense thickets. One morning we awoke to +find that many supposedly sober-minded trees had burst into +blossom fairly over night. They were red, and yellow and white +that before were green, a truly gorgeous sight. + +Then we turned sharp to the right and began to ascend a little +tributary brook coming down the wide flats from a cleft in the +hills. This was prettily named the Isiola, and, after the first +mile or so, was not big enough to afford the luxury of a jungle +of its own. Its banks were generally grassy and steep, its +thickets few, and its little trees isolated in parklike spaces. +To either side of it, and almost at its level, stretched plains, +but plains grown with scattered brush and shrubs so that at a +mile or two one's vista was closed. But for all its scant ten +feet of width the Isiola stood upon its dignity as a stream. We +discovered that when we tried to cross. The men floundered +waist-deep on uncertain bottom; the syces received much +unsympathetic comment for their handling of the animals, and we +had to get Billy over by a melodramatic "bridge of life" with B., +F., myself, and Memba Sasa in the title roles. + +Then we pitched camp in the open on the other side, sent the +horses back from the stream until after dark, in fear of the +deadly tsetse fly, and prepared to enjoy a good exploration of +the neighbourhood. Whereupon M'ganga rose up to his gaunt and +terrific height of authority, stretched forth his bony arm at +right angles, and uttered between eight and nine thousand +commands in a high dynamic monotone without a single pause for +breath. These, supplemented by about as many more, resulted in +(a) a bridge across the stream, and (b) a banda. + +A banda is a delightful African institution. It springs from +nothing in about two hours, but it takes twenty boys with a +vitriolic M'ganga back of them to bring it about. Some of them +carry huge backloads of grass, or papyrus, or cat-tail rushes, as +the case may be; others lug in poles of various lengths from +where their comrades are cutting them by means of their panga. A +panga, parenthetically, is the safari man's substitute for axe, +shovel, pick, knife, sickle, lawn-mower, hammer, gatling gun, +world's library of classics, higher mathematics, grand opera, and +toothpicks. It looks rather like a machete with a very broad end +and a slight curved back. A good man can do extraordinary things +with it. Indeed, at this moment, two boys are with this +apparently clumsy implement delicately peeling some of the small +thorn trees, from the bared trunks of which they are stripping +long bands of tough inner bark. + +With these three raw materials-poles, withes, and grass-M'ganga +and his men set to work. They planted their corner and end poles, +they laid their rafters, they completed their framework, binding +all with the tough withes; then deftly they thatched it with the +grass. Almost before we had settled our own affairs, M'ganga was +standing before us smiling. Gone now was his mien of high +indignation and swirling energy. + +"Banda naquisha," he informed us. + +And we moved in our table and our canvas chairs; hung up our +water bottles; Billy got out her fancy work. Nothing could be +pleasanter nor more appropriate to the climate than this wide low +arbour, open at either end to the breezes, thatched so thickly +that the fierce sun could nowhere strike through. + +The men had now settled down to a knowledge of what we were like; +and things were going smoothly. At first the African porter will +try it on to see just how easy you are likely to prove. If he +makes up his mind that you really are easy, then you are in for +infinite petty annoyance, and possibly open mutiny. Therefore, +for a little while, it is necessary to be extremely vigilant, to +insist on minute performance in all circumstances where later you +might condone an omission. For the same reason punishment must be +more frequent and more severe at the outset. It is all a matter +of watching the temper of the men. If they are cheerful and +willing, you are not nearly as particular as you would be were +their spirit becoming sullen. Then the infraction is not so +important in itself as an excuse for the punishment. For when +your men get sulky, you watch vigilantly for the first and +faintest EXCUSE to inflict punishment. + +This game always seemed to me very fascinating, when played +right. It is often played wrong. People do not look far enough. +Because they see that punishment has a most salutary effect on +morale, and is sometimes efficacious in getting things done that +otherwise would lag, they jump to the conclusion that the only +effective way to handle a safari is by penalties. By this I do +not at all mean that they act savagely, or punish to brutal +excess. Merely they hold rigidly to the letter of the work and +the day's discipline. Because it is sometimes necessary to punish +severely slight infractions when the men's tempers need +sweetening, they ALWAYS punish slight infractions severely. + +And in ordinary circumstances this method undoubtedly results in +a very efficient safari. Things are done smartly, on time, with a +snap. The day's march begins without delay; there is a minimum of +straggling; on arrival the tents are immediately got up and the +wood and water fetched. But in a tight place, men so handled by +invariable rule are very apt to sit down apathetically, and put +the whole thing up to the white man. When it comes time to help +out they are not there. The contrast with a well-disposed safari +cannot be appreciated by one who has not seen both. + +The safari-man loves a master. He does not for a moment +understand any well-meant but misplaced efforts on your part to +lighten his work below the requirements of custom. Always he will +beg you to ease up on him, to accord him favour; and always he +will despise you if you yield. The relations of man to man, of +man to work, are all long since established by immemorial +distauri-custom-and it is not for you or him to change them +lightly. If you know what he should or can do, and hold him +rigidly to it, he will respect and follow you. + +But in order to keep him up to the mark, it is not always +advisable to light into him with a whip, necessary as the whip +often is. If he is sullen, or inclined to make mischief, then +that is the crying requirement. But if he is merely careless, or +a little slow, or tired, you can handle him in other ways. +Ridicule before his comrades is very effective: a sort of +good-natured guying, I mean. "Ah! very tired!" uttered in the +right tone of voice has brought many a loiterer to his feet as +effectively as the kick some men feel must always be bestowed, +and quite without anger, mind you! For days at a time we have +kept our men travelling at good speed by commenting, as though by +the way, after we had arrived in camp, on which tribe happened to +come in at the head. + +"Ah! Kavirondos came in first to-night," we would remark. "Last +night the Monumwezis were ahead." + +And once, actually, by this method we succeeded in working up +such a feeling of rivalry that the Kikuyus, the unambitious, weak +and despised Kikuyus, led the van! + +But the first hint of insubordination, of intended insolence, of +willful shirking must be met by instant authority. Occasionally, +when the situation is of the quick and sharp variety, the white +man may have to mix in the row himself. He must never hesitate an +instant; for the only reason he alone can control so many is that +he has always controlled them. F. had a very effective blow, or +shove, which I found well worth adopting. It is delivered with +the heel of the palm to the man's chin, and is more of a lifting, +heaving shove than an actual blow. Its effect is immediately +upsetting. Impertinence is best dealt with in this manner on the +spot. Evidently intended slowness in coming when called is also +best treated by a flick of the whip-and forgetfulness. And so +with a half dozen others. But any more serious matter should be +decided from the throne of the canvas chair, witness should be +heard, judgment formally pronounced, and execution intrusted to +the askaris or gunbearers. + +It is, as I have said, a most interesting game. It demands three +sorts of knowledge: first what a safari man is capable of doing; +second, what he customarily should or should not do; third, an +ability to read the actual intention or motive back of his +actions. When you are able to punish or hold your hand on these +principles, and not merely because things have or have not gone +smoothly or right, then you are a good safari manager. There are +mighty few of them. + +As for punishment, that is quite simply the whip. The average +writer on the country speaks of this with hushed voice and +averted face as a necessity but as something to be deprecated and +passed over as quickly as possible. He does this because he +thinks he ought to. As a matter of fact, such an attitude is all +poppycock. In the flogging of a white man, or a black who suffers +from such a punishment in his soul as well as his body, this is +all very well. But the safari man expects it, it doesn't hurt his +feelings in the least, it is ancient custom. As well +sentimentalize over necessary schoolboy punishment, or over +father paddy-whacking little Willie when little Willie has been a +bad boy. The chances are your porter will leap to his feet, crack +his heels together and depart with a whoop of joy, grinning from +ear to ear. Or he may draw himself up and salute you, military +fashion, again with a grin. In any case his "soul" is not +"scared" a little bit, and there is no sense in yourself feeling +about it as though it were. + +At another slant the justice you will dispense to your men +differs from our own. Again this is because of the teaching long +tradition has made part of their mental make-up. Our own belief +is that it is better to let two guilty men go than to punish one +innocent. With natives it is the other way about. If a crime is +committed the guilty MUST be punished. Preferably he alone is to +be dealt with; but in case it is impossible to identify him, then +all the members of the first inclusive unit must be brought to +account. This is the native way of doing things; is the only way +the native understands; and is the only way that in his mind true +justice is answered. Thus if a sheep is stolen, the thief must be +caught and punished. Suppose, however it is known to what family +the thief belongs, but the family refuses to disclose which of +its members committed the theft: then each member must be +punished for sheep stealing; or, if not the family, then the +tribe must make restitution. But punishment MUST be inflicted. + +There is an essential justice to recommend this, outside the fact +that it has with the native all the solidity of accepted ethics, +and it certainly helps to run the real criminal to earth. The +innocent sometimes suffers innocently, but not very often; and +our own records show that in that respect with us it is the same. +This is not the place to argue the right or wrong of the matter +from our own standpoint but to recognize the fact that it is right +from theirs, and to act accordingly. Thus in cast of theft of +meat, or something that cannot be traced, it is well to call up +the witnesses, to prove the alibis, and then to place the issue +squarely up to those that remain. There may be but two, or there +may be a dozen. + +"I know you did not all steal the meat," you must say, "but I know +that one of you did. Unless I know which one that is by to-morrow +morning, I will kiboko all of you. Bass!" + +Perhaps occasionally you may have to kiboko the lot, in the full +knowledge that most are innocent. That seems hard; and your heart +will misgive you. Harden it. The "innocent" probably know +perfectly well who the guilty man is. And the incident builds for +the future. + +I had intended nowhere to comment on the politics or policies of +the country. Nothing is more silly than the casual visitor's snap +judgments on how a country is run. Nevertheless, I may perhaps be +pardoned for suggesting that the Government would strengthen its +hand, and aid its few straggling settlers by adopting this native +view of retributions. For instance, at present it is absolutely +impossible to identify individual sheep and cattle stealers. They +operate stealthily and at night. If the Government cannot +identify the actual thief, it gives the matter up. As a +consequence a great hardship is inflicted on the settler and an +evil increases. If, however, the Government would hold the +village, the district, or the tribe responsible, and exact just +compensation from such units in every case, the evil would very +suddenly come to an end. And the native's respect for the white +man would climb in the scale. + +Once the safari man gets confidence in his master, that +confidence is complete. The white man's duties are in his mind +clearly defined. His job is to see that the black man is fed, is +watered, is taken care of in every way. The ordinary porter +considers himself quite devoid of responsibility. He is also an +improvident creature, for he drinks all his water when he gets +thirsty, no matter how long and hot the journey before him; he +eats his rations all up when he happens to get hungry, two days +before next distribution time; he straggles outrageously at times +and has to be rounded up; he works three months and, on a whim, +deserts two days before the end of his journey, thus forfeiting +all his wages. Once two porters came to us for money. + +"What for?" asked C. + +"To buy a sheep," said they. + +For two months we had been shooting them all the game meat they +could eat, but on this occasion two days had intervened since the +last kill. If they had been on trading safari they would have had +no meat at all. A sheep cost six rupees in that country, and they +were getting but ten rupees a month as wages. In view of the +circumstances, and for their own good, we refused. Another man +once insisted on purchasing a cake of violet-scented soap for a +rupee. Their chief idea of a wild time in Nairobi, after return +from a long safari, is to SIT IN A CHAIR and drink tea. For this +they pay exorbitantly at the Somali so-called "hotels." It is a +strange sight. But then, I have seen cowboys off the range or +lumberjacks from the river do equally extravagant and foolish +things. + +On the other hand they carry their loads well, they march +tremendously, they know their camp duties and they do them. Under +adverse circumstances they are good-natured. I remember C. and I, +being belated and lost in a driving rain. We wandered until +nearly midnight. The four or five men with us were loaded heavily +with the meat and trophy of a roan. Certainly they must have been +very tired; for only occasionally could we permit them to lay +down their loads. Most of the time we were actually groping, over +boulders, volcanic rocks, fallen trees and all sorts of +tribulation. The men took it as a huge joke, and at every pause +laughed consumedly. + +In making up a safari one tries to mix in four or five tribes. +This prevents concerted action in case of trouble, for no one +tribe will help another. They vary both in tribal and individual +characteristics, of course. For example, the Kikuyus are docile +but mediocre porters; the Kavirondos strong carriers but +turbulent and difficult to handle. You are very lucky if you +happen on a camp jester, one of the sort that sings, shouts, or +jokes while on the march. He is probably not much as a porter, +but he is worth his wages nevertheless. He may or may not aspire +to his giddy eminence. We had one droll-faced little Kavirondo +whose very expression made one laugh, and whose rueful remarks on +the harshness of his lot finally ended by being funny. His name +got to be a catchword in camp. + +"Mualo! Mualo!" the men would cry, as they heaved their burdens +to their heads; and all day long their war cry would ring out, +"Mualo!" followed by shrieks of laughter. + +Of the other type was Sulimani, a big, one-eyed Monumwezi, who +had a really keen wit coupled with an earnest, solemn manner. +This man was no buffoon, however; and he was a good porter, +always at or near the head of the procession. In the great jungle +south of Kenia we came upon Cuninghame. When the head of our +safari reached the spot Sulimani left the ranks and, his load +still aloft danced solemnly in front of Cuninghame, chanting +something in a loud tone of voice. Then with a final deep +"Jambo!" to his old master he rejoined the safari. When the day +had stretched to weariness and the men had fallen to a sullen +plodding, Sulimani's vigorous song could always set the safari +sticks tapping the sides of the chop boxes. + +He carried part of the tent, and the next best men were entrusted +with the cook outfit and our personal effects. It was a point of +honour with these men to be the first in camp. The rear, the very +extreme and straggling rear, was brought up by worthless porters +with loads of cornmeal-and the weary askaris whose duty it was +to keep astern and herd the lot in. + + + +XIV. A DAY ON THE ISIOLA + +Early one morning-we were still on the Isiola-we set forth on +our horses to ride across the rolling, brush-grown plain. Our +intention was to proceed at right angles to our own little stream +until we had reached the forest growth of another, which we could +dimly make out eight or ten miles distant. Billy went with us, so +there were four a-horseback. Behind us trudged the gunbearers, +and the syces, and after them straggled a dozen or fifteen +porters. + +The sun was just up, and the air was only tepid as yet. From +patches of high grass whirred and rocketed grouse of two sorts. +They were so much like our own ruffed grouse and prairie chicken +that I could with no effort imagine myself once more a boy in the +coverts of the Middle West. Only before us we could see the +stripes of trotting zebra disappearing; and catch the glint of +light on the bayonets of the oryx. Two giraffes galumphed away to +the right. Little grass antelope darted from clump to clump of +grass. Once we saw gerenuk-oh, far away in an impossible +distance. Of course we tried to stalk them; and as usual we +failed. The gerenuk we had come to look upon as our Lesser +Hoodoo. + +The beast is a gazelle about as big as a black-tailed deer. His +peculiarity is his excessively long neck, a good deal on the +giraffe order. With it he crops browse above high tide mark of +other animals, especially when as often happens he balances +cleverly on his hind legs. By means of it also he can, with his +body completely concealed, look over the top of ordinary cover +and see you long before you have made out his inconspicuous +little head. Then he departs. He seems to have a lamentable lack +of healthy curiosity about you. In that respect he should take +lessons from the kongoni. After that you can follow him as far as +you please; you will get only glimpses at three or four hundred +yards. + +We remounted sadly and rode on. The surface of the ground was +rather soft, scattered with round rocks the size of a man's head, +and full of pig holes. + +"Cheerful country to ride over at speed," remarked Billy. Later +in the day we had occasion to remember that statement. + +The plains led us ever on. First would be a band of scattered +brush growing singly and in small clumps: then a little open +prairie; then a narrow, long grass swale; then perhaps a low, +long hill with small single trees and rough, volcanic footing. +Ten thousand things kept us interested. Game was everywhere, +feeding singly, in groups, in herds, game of all sizes and +descriptions. The rounded ears of jackals pointed at us from the +grass. Hundreds of birds balanced or fluttered about us, birds of +all sizes from the big ground hornbill to the littlest hummers +and sun birds. Overhead, across the wonderful variegated sky of +Africa the broad-winged carrion hunters and birds of prey +wheeled. In all our stay on the Isiola we had not seen a single +rhino track, so we rode quite care free and happy. + +Finally, across a glade, not over a hundred and fifty yards away, +we saw a solitary bull oryx standing under a bush. B. wanted an +oryx. We discussed this one idly. He looked to be a decent oryx, +but nothing especial. However, he offered a very good shot; so +B., after some hesitation, decided to take it. It proved to be by +far the best specimen we shot, the horns measuring thirty-six and +three fourths inches! Almost immediately after, two of the rather +rare striped hyenas leaped from the grass and departed rapidly +over the top of a hill. We opened fire, and F. dropped one of +them. By the time these trophies were prepared, the sun had +mounted high in the heavens, and it was getting hot. + +Accordingly we abandoned that still distant river and swung away +in a wide circle to return to camp. + +Several minor adventures brought us to high noon and the heat of +the day. B. had succeeded in drawing a prize, one of the Grevy's +or mountain zebra. He and the gunbearers engaged themselves with +that, while we sat under the rather scanty shade of a small thorn +tree and had lunch. Here we had a favourable chance to observe +that very common, but always wonderful phenomenon, the gathering +of the carrion birds. Within five minutes after the stoop of the +first vulture above the carcass, the sky immediately over that +one spot was fairly darkened with them. They were as thick as +midges-or as ducks used to be in California. All sizes were +there from the little carrion crows to the great dignified +vultures and marabouts and eagles. The small fry flopped and +scolded, and rose and fell in a dense mass; the marabouts walked +with dignified pace to and fro through the grass all about. As +far as the eye could penetrate the blue, it could make out more +and yet more of the great soarers stooping with half bent wings. +Below we could see uncertainly through the shimmer of the mirage +the bent forms of the men. + +We ate and waited; and after a little we dozed. I was awakened +suddenly by a tremendous rushing roar, like the sound of a not +too distant waterfall. The group of men were plodding toward us +carrying burdens. And like plummets the birds were dropping +straight down from the heavens, spreading wide their wings at the +last moment to check their speed. This made the roaring sound +that had awakened me. + +A wide spot in the shimmer showed black and struggling against +the ground. I arose and walked over, meeting halfway B. and the +men carrying the meat. It took me probably about two minutes to +reach the place where the zebra had been killed. Hundreds, +perhaps thousands, of the great birds were standing idly about; a +dozen or so were flapping and scrambling in the centre. I stepped +into view. With a mighty commotion they all took wing clumsily, +awkwardly, reluctantly. A trampled, bloody space and the larger +bones, picked absolutely clean, was all that remained! In less +than two minutes the job had been done! + +"You're certainly good workmen!" I exclaimed, "but I wonder how +you all make a living!" + +We started the men on to camp with the meat, and ourselves rested +under the shade. The day had been a full and interesting one; but +we considered it as finished. Remained only the hot journey back +to camp. + +After a half hour we mounted again and rode on slowly. The sun +was very strong and a heavy shimmer clothed the plain. Through +this shimmer we caught sight of something large and black and +flapping. It looked like a crow-or, better, a +scare-crow-crippled, half flying, half running, with waving +wings or arms, now dwindling, now gigantic as the mirage caught +it up or let it drop. As we watched, it developed, and we made it +out to be a porter, clad in a long, ragged black overcoat, +running zigzag through the bushes in our direction. + +The moment we identified it we spurred our horses forward. As my +horse leaped, Memba Sasa snatched the Springfield from my left +hand and forced the 405 Winchester upon me. Clever Memba Sasa! He +no more than we knew what was up, but shrewdly concluded that +whatever it was it needed a heavy gun. + +As we galloped to meet him, the porter stopped. We saw him to be +a very long-legged, raggedy youth whom we had nicknamed the +Marabout because of his exceedingly long, lean legs, the fact +that his breeches were white, short and baggy, and because he +kept his entire head shaved close. He called himself Fundi, which +means The Expert, a sufficient indication of his confidence in +himself. + +He awaited us leaning on his safari stick, panting heavily, the +sweat running off his face in splashes. "Simba!"* said he, and +immediately set off on a long, easy lope ahead of us. We pulled +down to a trot and followed him. + +*Lion + + +At the end of a half mile we made out a man up a tree. Fundi, out +of breath, stopped short and pointed to this man. The latter, as +soon as he had seen us, commenced to scramble down. We spurred +forward to find out where the lions had been last seen. + +Then Billy covered herself with glory by seeing them first. She +apprised us of that fact with some excitement. We saw the long, +yellow bodies of two of them disappearing in the edge of the +brush about three hundred yards away. With a wild whoop we tore +after them at a dead run. + +Then began a wild ride. Do you remember Billy's remark about the +nature of the footing? Before long we closed in near enough to +catch occasional glimpses of the beasts, bounding easily along. +At that moment B.'s horse went down in a heap. None of us thought +for a moment of pulling up. I looked back to see B. getting up +again, and thought I caught fragments of encouraging-sounding +language. Then my horse went down. I managed to hold my rifle +clear, and to cling to the reins. Did you ever try to get on a +somewhat demoralized horse in a frantic hurry, when all your +friends were getting farther away every minute, and so lessening +your chances of being in the fun? I began to understand perfectly +B.'s remarks of a moment before. However, on I scrambled, and +soon overtook the hunt. + +We dodged in and out of bushes, and around and over holes. Every +few moments we would catch a glimpse of one of those silently +bounding lions, and then we would let out a yell. Also every few +moments one or the other of us would go down in a heap, and would +scramble up and curse, and remount hastily. Billy had better +luck. She had no gun, and belonged a little in the rear anyway, +but was coming along game as a badger for all that. + +My own horse had the legs of the others quite easily, and for +that reason I was ahead far enough to see the magnificent sight +of five lions sideways on, all in a row, standing in the grass +gazing at me with a sort of calm and impersonal dignity. I +wheeled my horse immediately so as to be ready in case of a +charge, and yelled to the others to hurry up. While I sat there, +they moved slowly off one after the other, so that by the time +the men had come, the lions had gone. We now had no difficulty in +running into them again. Once more my better animal brought me to +the lead, so that for the second time I drew up facing the lions, +and at about one hundred yards range. One by one they began to +leave as before, very leisurely and haughtily, until a single old +maned fellow remained. He, however, sat there, his great round +head peering over the top of the grass. + +"Well," he seemed to say, "here I am, what do you intend to do +about it?" + +The others arrived, and we all dismounted. B. had not yet killed +his lion, so the shot was his. Billy very coolly came up behind +and held his horse. I should like here to remark that Billy is +very terrified of spiders. F. and I stood at the ready, and B. +sat down. + +Riding fast an exciting mile or so, getting chucked on your head +two or three times, and facing your first lion are none of them +conducive to steady shooting. The first shot therefore went high, +but the second hit the lion square in the chest, and he rolled +over dead. + +We all danced a little war dance, and congratulated B. and turned +to get the meaning of a queer little gurgling gasp behind us. +There was Fundi! That long-legged scarecrow, not content with +running to get us and then back again, had trailed us the whole +distance of our mad chase over broken ground at terrific speed in +order to be in at the death. And he was just about all in at the +death. He could barely gasp his breath, his eyes stuck out; he +looked close to apoplexy. + +"Bwana! bwana!" was all he could say. "Master! master!" + +We shook hands with Fundi. + +"My son," said I, "you're a true sport, and you'll surely get +yours later." + +He did not understand me, but he grinned. The gunbearers began to +drift in, also completely pumped. They set up a feeble shout when +they saw the dead lion. It was a good maned beast, three feet six +inches at the shoulder, and nine feet long. + +We left Fundi with the lion, instructing him to stay there until +some of the other men came up. We remounted and pushed on slowly +in hopes of coming on one of the others. + +Here and there we rode, our courses interweaving, looking +eagerly. And lo! through a tiny opening in the brush we espied +one of those elusive gerenuk standing not over one hundred yards +away. Whereupon I dismounted and did some of the worst shooting I +perpetrated in Africa, for I let loose three times at him before +I landed. But land I did, and there was one Lesser Hoodoo broken. +Truly this was our day. + +We measured him and started to prepare the trophy, when to us +came Mavrouki and a porter, quite out of breath, but able to tell +us that they had been scouting around and had seen two of the +lions. Then, instead of leaving one up a tree to watch, both had +come pell-mell to tell us all about it. We pointed this out to +them, and called their attention to the fact that the brush was +wide, that lions are not stationary objects, and that, unlike the +leopard, they can change their spots quite readily. However, we +remounted and went to take a look. + +Of course there was nothing. So we rode on, rather aimlessly, +weaving in and out of the bushes and open spaces. I think we were +all a little tired from the long day and the excitement, and +hence a bit listless. Suddenly we were fairly shaken out of our +saddles by an angry roar just ahead. Usually a lion growls, low +and thunderous, when he wants, to warn you that you have gone +about far enough; but this one was angry all through at being +followed about so much, and he just plain yelled at us. + +He crouched near a bush forty yards away, and was switching his +tail. I had heard that this was a sure premonition of an instant +charge, but I had not before realized exactly what "switching the +tail" meant. I had thought of it as a slow sweeping from side to +side, after the manner of the domestic cat. This lion's tail was +whirling perpendicularly from right to left, and from left to +right with the speed and energy of a flail actuated by a +particularly instantaneous kind of machinery. I could see only +the outline of the head and this vigorous tail; but I took +instant aim and let drive. The whole affair sank out of sight. + +We made a detour around the dead lion without stopping to examine +him, shouting to one of the men to stay and watch the carcass. +Billy alone seemed uninfected with the now prevalent idea that we +were likely to find lions almost anywhere. Her skepticism was +justified. We found no more lions; but another miracle took place +for all that. We ran across the second imbecile gerenuk, and B. +collected it! These two were the only ones we ever got within +decent shot of, and they sandwiched themselves neatly with lions. +Truly, it WAS our day. + +After a time we gave it up, and went back to measure and +photograph our latest prize. It proved to be a male, maneless, +two inches shorter than that killed by B., and three feet five +and one half inches tall at the shoulder. My bullet had reached +the brain just over the left eye. + +Now, toward sunset, we headed definitely toward camp. The long +shadows and beautiful lights of evening were falling across the +hills far the other side the Isiola. A little breeze with a touch +of coolness breathed down from distant unseen Kenia. We plodded +on through the grass quite happily, noting the different animals +coming out to the cool of the evening. The line of brush that +marked the course of the Isiola came imperceptibly nearer until +we could make out the white gleam of the porters' tents and wisps +of smoke curling upward. + +Then a small black mass disengaged itself from the camp and came +slowly across the prairie in our direction. As it approached we +made it out to be our Monumwezis, twenty strong. The news of the +lions had reached them, and they were coming to meet us. They +were huddled in a close knot, their heads inclined toward the +centre. Each man carried upright a peeled white wand. They moved +in absolute unison and rhythm, on a slanting zigzag in our +direction: first three steps to the right, then three to the +left, with a strong stamp of the foot between. Their bodies +swayed together. Sulimani led them, dancing backward, his wand +upheld. + +"Sheeka!" he enunciated in a piercing half whistle. + +And the swaying men responded in chorus, half hushed, rumbling, +with strong aspiration. + +"Goom zoop! goom zoop!" + +When fifty yards from us, however, the formation broke and they +rushed us with a yell. Our horses plunged in astonishment, and we +had hard work to prevent their bolting, small blame to 'em! The +men surrounded us, shaking our hands frantically. At once they +appropriated everything we or our gunbearers carried. One who got +left otherwise insisted on having Billy's parasol. Then we all +broke for camp at full speed, yelling like fiends, firing our +revolvers in the air. It was a grand entry, and a grand +reception. The rest of the camp poured out with wild shouts. The +dark forms thronged about us, teeth flashing, arms waving. And in +the background, under the shadows of the trees were the +Monumwezis, their formation regained, close gathered, heads bent, +two steps swaying to the right-stamp! two steps swaying to the +left-stamp!-the white wands gleaming, and the rumble of their +lion song rolling in an undertone: + +"Goom zoop! goom zoop!" + + + +XV. THE LION DANCE + +We took our hot baths and sat down to supper most gratefully, for +we were tired. The long string of men, bearing each a log of +wood, filed in from the darkness to add to our pile of fuel. +Saa-sita and Shamba knelt and built the night fire. In a moment +the little flame licked up through the carefully arranged +structure. We finished the meal, and the boys whisked away the +table. + +Then out in the blackness beyond our little globe of light we +became aware of a dull confusion, a rustling to and fro. Through +the shadows the eye could guess at movement. The confusion +steadied to a kind of rhythm, and into the circle of the fire +came the group of Monumwezis. Again they were gathered together +in a compact little mass; but now they were bent nearly double, +and were stripped to the red blankets about their waists. Before +them writhed Sulimani, close to earth, darting irregularly now to +right, now to left, wriggling, spreading his arms abroad. He was +repeating over and over two phrases; or rather the same phrase +in two such different intonations that they seemed to convey +quite separate meanings. + +"Ka soompeele?" he cried with a strongly appealing interrogation. + +"Ka soompeele!" he repeated with the downward inflection of +decided affirmation. + +And the bent men, their dark bodies gleaming in the firelight, +stamping in rhythm every third step, chorused in a deep rumbling +bass: + +"Goom zoop! goom zoop!" + +Thus they advanced; circled between us and the fire, and withdrew +to the half darkness, where tirelessly they continued the same +reiterations. + +Hardly had they withdrawn when another group danced forward in +their places. These were the Kikuyus. They had discarded +completely their safari clothes, and now came forth dressed out +in skins, in strips of white cloth, with feathers, shells and +various ornaments. They carried white wands to represent spears, +and they sang their tribal lion song. A soloist delivered the +main argument in a high wavering minor and was followed by a deep +rumbling emphatic chorus of repetition, strongly accented so that +the sheer rhythm of it was most pronounced: + +"An-gee a Ka ga An-gee a Ka ga An-gee a Ka ga Ki ya Ka ga Ka +ga an gee ya!" + +Solemnly and loftily, their eyes fixed straight before them they +made the circle of the fire, passed before our chairs, and +withdrew to the half light. There, a few paces from the stamping, +crouching Monumwezis, they continued their performance. + +The next to appear were the Wakambas. These were more +histrionic. They too were unrecognizable as our porters, for they +too had for the lion discarded their work-a-day garments in +favour of savage. They produced a pantomime of the day's doings, +very realistic indeed, ending with a half dozen of dark swaying +bodies swinging and shuddering in the long grass as lions, while +the "horses" wove in and out among the crouching forms, all done +to the beat of rhythm. Past us swept the hunt, and in its turn +melted into the half light. + +The Kavirondos next appeared, the most fantastically caparisoned +of the lot, fine big black men, their eyes rolling with +excitement. They had captured our flag from its place before the +big tent, and were rallied close about this, dancing +fantastically. Before us they leaped and stamped and shook their +spears and shouted out their full-voiced song, while the other +three tribes danced each its specialty dimly in the background. + +The dance thus begun lasted for fully two hours. Each tribe took a +turn before us, only to give way to the next. We had leisure to +notice minutiae, such as the ingenious tail one of the "lions" +had constructed from a sweater. As time went on, the men worked +themselves to a frenzy. From the serried ranks every once in a +while one would break forth with a shriek to rush headlong into +the fire, to beat the earth about him with his club, to rush over +to shake one of us violently by the hand, or even to seize one of +our feet between his two palms. Then with equal abruptness back +he darted to regain his place among the dancers. Wilder and +wilder became the movements, higher rose the voices. The mock +lion hunt grew more realistic, and the slaughter on both sides +something tremendous. Lower and lower crouched the Monumwezi, +drawing apart with their deep "goom"; drawing suddenly to a +common centre with the sharp "zoop!" Only the Kikuyus held their +lofty bearing as they rolled forth their chant, but the mounting +excitement showed in their tense muscles and the rolling of their +eyes. The sweat glistened on naked black and bronze bodies. Among +the Monumwezi to my astonishment I saw Memba Sasa, stripped like +the rest, and dancing with all abandon. The firelight leaped high +among the logs that eager hands cast on it; and the shadows it +threw from the swirling, leaping figures wavered out into a +great, calm darkness. + +The night guard understood a little of the native languages, so +he stood behind our chairs and told us in Swahili the meaning of +some of the repeated phrases. + +"This has been a glorious day; few safaris have had so glorious a +day." + +"The masters looked upon the fierce lions and did not run away." + +"Brave men without other weapons will nevertheless kill with a +knife." + +"The masters' mothers must be brave women, the masters are so +brave." + +"The white woman went hunting, and so were many lions killed." + +The last one pleased Billy. She felt that at last she was +appreciated. + +We sat there spellbound by the weird savagery of the +spectacle-the great licking fire, the dancing, barbaric figures, +the rise and fall of the rhythm, the dust and shuffle, the ebb +and flow of the dance, the dim, half-guessed groups swaying in +the darkness-and overhead the calm tropic night. + +At last, fairly exhausted, they stopped. Some one gave a signal. +The men all gathered in one group, uttered a final yell, very +like a cheer, and dispersed. + +We called up the heroes of the day-Fundi and his companion-and +made a little speech, and bestowed appropriate reward. Then we +turned in. + + + +XVI. FUNDI + +Fundi, as I have suggested, was built very much on the lines of +the marabout stork. He was about twenty years old, carried +himself very erect, and looked one straight in the eye. His total +assets when he came to us were a pair of raggedy white breeches, +very baggy, and an old mesh undershirt, ditto ditto. To this we +added a jersey, a red blanket, and a water bottle. At the first +opportunity he constructed himself a pair of rawhide sandals. + +Throughout the first part of the trip he had applied himself to +business and carried his load. He never made trouble. Then he and +his companion saw five lions; and the chance Fundi had evidently +long been awaiting came to his hand. He ran himself almost into +coma, exhibited himself game, and so fell under our especial and +distinguished notice. After participating whole-heartedly in the +lion dance he and his companion were singled out for Our +Distinguished Favour, to the extent of five rupees per. Thus far +Fundi's history reads just like the history of any ordinary +Captain of Industry. + +Next morning, after the interesting ceremony of rewarding the +worthy, we moved on to a new camp. When the line-up was called +for, lo! there stood Fundi, without a load, but holding firmly my +double-barrelled rifle. Evidently he had seized the chance of +favour-and the rifle-and intended to be no longer a porter but +a second gunbearer. + +This looked interesting, so we said nothing. Fundi marched the +day through very proudly. At evening he deposited the rifle in +the proper place, and set to work with a will at raising the big +tent. + +The day following he tried it again. It worked. The third day he +marched deliberately up past the syce to take his place near me. +And the fourth day, as we were going hunting, Fundi calmly fell +in with the rest. Nothing had been said, but Fundi had definitely +grasped his chance to rise from the ranks. In this he differed +from his companion in glory. That worthy citizen pocketed his five +rupees and was never heard from again; I do not even remember his +name nor how he looked. + +I killed a buck of some sort, and Memba Sasa, as usual, stepped +forward to attend to the trophy. But I stopped him. + +"Fundi," said I, "if you are a gunbearer, prepare this beast." + +He stepped up confidently and set to work. I watched him closely. +He did it very well, without awkwardness, though he made one or +two minor mistakes in method. + +"Have you done this before?" I inquired. + +"No, bwana." + +"How did you learn to do it?" + +"I have watched the gunbearers when I was a porter bringing in +meat."* + +*Except in the greatest emergencies a gunbearer would never +think of carrying any sort of a burden. + + +This was pleasing, but it would never do, at this stage of the +game, to let him think so, neither on his own account nor that of +the real gunbearers. + +"You will bring in meat today also," said I, for I was indeed a +little shorthanded, "and you will learn how to make the top +incision straighter." + +When we had reached camp I handed him the Springfield. + +"Clean this," I told him. + +He departed with it, returning it after a time for my inspection. +It looked all right. I catechized him on the method he had +employed-for high velocities require very especial +treatment-and found him letter perfect. + + +"You learned this also by watching?" + +"Yes, bwana, I watched the gunbearers by the fire, evenings." + +Evidently Fundi had been preparing for his chance. + +Next day, as he walked alongside, I noticed that he had not +removed the leather cap, or sight protector, that covers the end +of the rifle and is fastened on by a leather thong. Immediately I +called a halt. + +"Fundi," said I, "do you know that the cover should be in your +pocket? Suppose a rhinoceros jumps up very near at hand: how can +you get time to unlace the thong and hand me the rifle?" + +He thrust the rifle at me suddenly. In some magical fashion the +sight cover had disappeared! + +"I have thought of this," said he, "and I have tied the thong, +so, in order that it come away with one pull; and I snatch it +off, so, with my left hand while I am giving you the gun with my +right hand. It seemed good to keep the cover on, for there are +many branches, and the sight is very easy to injure." + +Of course this was good sense, and most ingenious; Fundi bade +fair to be quite a boy, but the native African is very easily +spoiled. Therefore, although my inclination was strongly to +praise him, I did nothing of the sort. + +"A gunbearer carries the gun away from the branches," was my only +comment. + +Shortly after occurred an incident by way of deeper test. We were +all riding rather idly along the easy slope below the foothills. +The grass was short, so we thought we could see easily everything +there was to be seen; but, as we passed some thirty yards from a +small tree, an unexpected and unnecessary rhinoceros rose from an +equally unexpected and unnecessary green hollow beneath the tree, +and charged us. He made straight for Billy. Her mule, +panic-stricken, froze with terror in spite of Billy's attack with +a parasol. I spurred my own animal between her and the charging +brute, with some vague idea of slipping off the other side as the +rhino struck. F. and B. leaped from their own animals, and F., +with a little .28 calibre rifle, took a hasty shot at the big +brute. Now, of course a .28 calibre rifle would hardly injure a +rhino, but the bullet happened to catch his right shoulder just +as he was about to come down on his right foot. The shock tripped +him up as neatly as though he had been upset by a rope. At the +same instant Billy's mule came to its senses and bolted, +whereupon I too jumped off. The whole thing took about two finger +snaps of time. At the instant I hit the ground, Fundi passed the +double rifle across the horse's back to me. + +Note two things to the credit of Fundi: in the first place, he +had not bolted; in the second place, instead of running up to the +left side of my mount and perhaps colliding with and certainly +confusing me, he had come up on the right side and passed the +rifle to me ACROSS the horse. I do not know whether or not he had +figured this out beforehand, but it was cleverly done. + +The rhinoceros rolled over and over, like a shot rabbit, kicked +for a moment, and came to his feet. We were now all ready for +him, in battle array, but he had evidently had enough. He turned +at right angles and trotted off, apparently-and probably-none +the worse for the little bullet in his shoulder. + +Fundi now began acquiring things that he supposed befitting to +his dignity. The first of these matters was a faded fez, in which +he stuck a long feather. From that he progressed in worldly +wealth. How he got it all, on what credit, or with what hypnotic +power, I do not know. Probably he hypothecated his wages, +certainly he had his five rupees. + +At any rate he started out with a ragged undershirt and a pair of +white, baggy breeches. He entered Nairobi at the end of the trip +with a cap, a neat khaki shirt, two water bottles, a cartridge +belt, a sash with a tasseI, a pair of spiral puttees, an old pair +of shoes, and a personal private small boy, picked up en route +from some of the savage tribes, to carry his cooking pot, make +his fires, draw his water, and generally perform his lordly +behests. This was indeed "more-than-oriental-splendour!" + +>From now on Fundi considered himself my second gunbearer. I had +no use for him, but Fundi's development interested me, and I +wanted to give him a chance. His main fault at first was +eagerness. He had to be rapped pretty sharply and a good number +of times before he discovered that he really must walk in the +rear. His habit of calling my attention to perfectly obvious +things I cured by liberal sarcasm. His intense desire to take his +own line as perhaps opposed to mine when we were casting about on +trail, I abated kindly but firmly with the toe of my boot. His +evident but mistaken tendency to consider himself on an equality +with Memba Sasa we both squelched by giving him the hard and +dirty work to do. But his faults were never those of voluntary +omission, and he came on surprisingly; in fact so surprisingly +that he began to get quite cocky over it. Not that he was ever in +the least aggressive or disrespectful or neglectful-it would +have been easy to deal with that sort of thing-but he carried +his head pretty high, and evidently began to have mental +reservations. Fundi needed a little wholesome discipline. He was +forgetting his porter days, and was rapidly coming to consider +himself a full-fledged gunbearer. + +The occasion soon arose. We were returning from a buffalo hunt +and ran across two rhinoceroses, one of which carried a splendid +horn. B. wanted a well developed specimen very much, so we took +this chance. The approach was easy enough, and at seventy yards +or so B. knocked her flat with a bullet from his .465 Holland. +The beast was immediately afoot, but was as promptly smothered by +shots from us all. So far the affair was very simple, but now +came complication. The second rhinoceros refused to leave. We did +not want to kill it, so we spent a lot of time and pains shooing +it away. We showered rocks and clods of earth in his direction; +we yelled sharply and whistled shrilly. The brute faced here and +there, his pig eyes blinking, his snout upraised, trying to +locate us, and declining to budge. At length he gave us up as +hopeless, and trotted away slowly. We let him go, and when we +thought he had quite departed, we approached to examine B.'s +trophy. + +Whereupon the other craftily returned; and charged us, snorting +like an engine blowing off steam. This was a genuine premeditated +charge, as opposed to a blind rush, and it is offered as a good +example of the sort. + +The rhinoceros had come fairly close before we got into action. +He headed straight for F. and myself, with B. a little to one +side. Things happened very quickly. F. and I each planted a heavy +bullet in his head; while B. sent a lighter Winchester bullet +into the ribs. The rhino went down in a heap eleven yards away, +and one of us promptly shot him in the spine to finish him. + +Personally I was entirely concentrated in the matter at hand-as +is always the way in crises requiring action-and got very few +impressions from anything outside. Nevertheless I imagined, +subconsciously that I had heard four shots. F. and B. disclaimed +more than one apiece, so I concluded myself mistaken, exchanged +my heavy rifle with Fundi for the lighter Winchester, and we +started for camp, leaving all the boys to attend to the dead +rhinos. At camp I threw down the lever of my Winchester-and drew +out an exploded shell! + +Here was a double crime on Fundi's part. In the first place, he +had fired the gun, a thing no bearer is supposed ever to do in +any circumstances short of the disarmament and actual mauling of +his master. Naturally this is so, for the white man must be able +in an emergency to depend ABSOLUTELY on his second gun being +loaded and ready for his need. In the second place, Fundi had +given me an empty rifle to carry home. Such a weapon is worse +than none in case of trouble; at least I could have gone up a +tree in the latter case. I would have looked sweet snapping that +old cartridge at anything dangerous! + +Therefore after supper we stationed ourselves in a row before the +fire, seated in our canvas chairs, and with due formality sent +word that we wanted all the gunbearers. They came and stood +before us. Memba Sasa erect, military, compact, looking us +straight in the eye; Mavrouki slightly bent forward, his face +alive with the little crafty, calculating smile peculiar to him; +Simba, tall and suave, standing with much social ease; and Fundi, +a trifle frightened, but uncertain as to whether or not he had +been found out. + +We stated the matter in a few words. + +"Gunbearers, this man Fundi, when the rhinoceros charged, fired +Winchi. Was this the work of a gunbearer?" + +The three seasoned men looked at each other with shocked +astonishment that such depravity could exist. + +"And being frightened, he gave back Winchi with the exploded +cartridge in her. Was that the work of a gunbearer?" + +"No, bwana," said Fundi humbly. + +"You, the gunbearers, have been called because we wish to know +what should be done with this man Fundi." + +It should be here explained that it is not customary to kiboko, +or flog, men of the gunbearer class. They respect themselves and +their calling, and would never stand that sort of punishment. +When one blunders, a sarcastic scolding is generally sufficient; +a more serious fault may be punished on the spot by the white +man's fist; or a really bad dereliction may cause the man's +instant degradation from the post. With this in mind we had +called the council of gunbearers. Memba Sasa spoke. + +"Bwana," said he, "this man is not a true gunbearer. He is no +longer a true porter. He carries a gun in the field, like a +gunbearer; and he knows much of the duty of gunbearer. Also he +does not run away nor climb trees. But he carries in the meat; +and he is not a real gunbearer. He is half porter and half +gunbearer." + +"What punishment shall he have?" + +"Kiboko," said they. + +"Thank you. Bass!" + +They went, leaving Fundi. We surveyed him, quietly. + +"You a gunbearer!" said we at last. "Memba Sasa says you are half +gunbearer. He was wrong. You are all porter; and you know no more +than they do. It is in our mind to put you back to carrying a +load. If you do not wish to taste the kiboko, you can take a load +to-morrow." + +"The kiboko, bwana," pleaded Fundi, very abashed and humble. + +"Furthermore," we added crushingly, "you did not even hit the +rhinoceros!" + +So with all ceremony he got the kiboko. The incident did him a +lot of good, and toned down his exuberance somewhat. Nevertheless +he still required a good deal of training, just as does a +promising bird dog in its first season. Generally his faults were +of over-eagerness. Indeed, once he got me thoroughly angry in +face of another rhinoceros by dancing just out of reach with the +heavy rifle, instead of sticking close to me where I could get at +him. I temporarily forgot the rhino, and advanced on Fundi with +the full intention of knocking his fool head off. Whereupon this +six feet something of most superb and insolent pride wilted down +to a small boy with his elbow before his face. + +"Don't hit, bwana! Don't hit!" he begged. + +The whole thing was so comical, especially with Memba Sasa +standing by virtuous and scornful, that I had hard work to keep +from laughing. Fortunately the rhinoceros behaved himself. + +The proud moment of Fundi's life was when safari entered Nairobi +at the end of the first expedition. He had gone forth with a load +on his head, rags on his back, and his only glory was the +self-assumed one of the name he had taken-Fundi, the Expert. He +returned carrying a rifle, rigged from top to toe in new garments +and fancy accoutrements, followed by a toro, or small boy, he had +bought from some of the savage tribes to carry his blanket and +cooking pot for him. To the friends who darted out to the line of +march, he was gracious, but he held his head high, and had no +time for mere persiflage. + +I did not take Fundi on my second expedition, for I had no real +use for a second gunbearer. Several times subsequently I saw him +on the streets of Nairobi. Always he came up to greet me, and ask +solicitously if I would not give him a job. This I was unable to +do. When we paid off, I had made an addition to his porter's +wages, and had written him a chit. This said that the boy had the +makings of a gunbearer with further training. It would have been +unfair to possible white employers to have said more. Fundi was, +when I left the country, precisely in the position of any young +man who tries to rise in the world. He would not again take a +load as porter, and he was not yet skilled enough or known enough +to pick up more than stray jobs as gunbearer. Before him was +struggle and hard times, with a certainty of a highly considered +profession if he won through. Behind him was steady work without +outlets for ambition. It was distinctly up to him to prove +whether he had done well to reach for ambition, or whether he +would have done better in contentment with his old lot. And that +is in essence a good deal like our own world isn't it? + + + +XVII. NATIVES + +Up to this time, save for a few Masai at the very beginning of +our trip, we had seen no natives at all. Only lately, the night +of the lion dance, one of the Wanderobo-the forest hunters-had +drifted in to tell us of buffalo and to get some meat. He was a +simple soul, small and capable, of a beautiful red-brown, with +his hair done up in a tight, short queue. He wore three skewers +about six inches long thrust through each of his ears, three +strings of blue beads on his neck, a bracelet tight around his +upper arm, a bangle around his ankle, a pair of rawhide sandals, +and about a half yard of cotton cloth which he hung from one +shoulder. As weapons he carried a round-headed, heavy club, or +runga, and a long-bladed spear. He led us to buffalo, accepted a +thirty-three cent blanket, and made fire with two sticks in about +thirty seconds. The only other evidences of human life we had +come across were a few beehives suspended in the trees. These +were logs, bored hollow and stopped at either end. Some of them +were very quaintly carved. They hung in the trees like strange +fruits. + +Now, however, after leaving the Isiola, we were to quit the game +country and for days travel among the swarming millions of the +jungle. + +A few preliminary and entirely random observations may be +permitted me by way of clearing the ground for a conception of +these people. These observations do not pretend to be +ethnological, nor even common logical. + +The first thing for an American to realize is that our own negro +population came mainly from the West Coast, and differed utterly +from these peoples of the highlands in the East. Therefore one +must first of all get rid of the mental image of our own negro +"dressed up" in savage garb. Many of these tribes are not negro +at all-the Somalis, the Nandi, and the Masai, for example-while +others belong to the negroid and Nilotic races. Their colour is +general cast more on the red-bronze than the black, though the +Kavirondos and some others are black enough. The texture of their +skin is very satiny and wonderful. This perfection is probably +due to the constant anointing of the body with oils of various +sorts. As a usual thing they are a fine lot physically. The +southern Masai will average between six and seven feet in height, +and are almost invariably well built. Of most tribes the physical +development is remarkably strong and graceful; and a great many +of the women will display a rounded, firm, high-breasted physique +in marked contrast to the blacks of the lowlands. Of the +different tribes possibly the Kikuyus are apt to count the most +weakly and spindly examples: though some of these people, perhaps +a majority, are well made. + +Furthermore, the native differentiates himself still further in +impression from our negro in his carriage and the mental attitude +that lies behind it. Our people are trying to pattern themselves +on white men, and succeed in giving a more or less shambling +imitation thereof. The native has standards, ideas, and ideals +that perfectly satisfy him, and that antedated the white man's +coming by thousands of years. The consciousness of this reflects +itself in his outward bearing. He does not shuffle; he is not +either obsequious or impudent. Even when he acknowledges the +white man's divinity and pays it appropriate respect, he does not +lose the poise of his own well-worked-out attitude toward life +and toward himself. + +We are fond of calling these people primitive. In the world's +standard of measurement they are primitive, very primitive +indeed. But ordinarily by that term, we mean also undeveloped, +embryonic. In that sense we are wrong. Instead of being at the +very dawn of human development, these people are at the end-as +far as they themselves are concerned. The original racial impulse +that started them down the years toward development has fulfilled +its duty and spent its force. They have worked out all their +problems, established all their customs, arranged the world and +its phenomena in a philosophy to their complete satisfaction. +They have lived, ethnologists tell us, for thousands, perhaps +hundreds of thousands of years, just as we find them to-day. From +our standpoint that is in a hopeless intellectual darkness, for +they know absolutely nothing of the most elementary subjects of +knowledge. From their standpoint, however, they have reached the +highest DESIRABLE pinnacle of human development. Nothing remains +to be changed. Their customs, religions, and duties have been +worked out and immutably established long ago; and nobody dreams +of questioning either their wisdom or their imperative necessity. +They are the conservatives of the world. + +Nor must we conclude-looking at them with the eyes of our own +civilization-that the savage is, from his standpoint, lazy and +idle. His life is laid out more rigidly than ours will be for a +great many thousands of years. From childhood to old age he +performs his every act in accord with prohibitions and +requirements. He must remember them all; for ignorance does not +divert consequences. He must observe them all; in pain of +terrible punishments. For example, never may he cultivate on the +site of a grave; and the plants that spring up from it must never +be cut.* He must make certain complicated offerings before +venturing to harvest a crop. On crossing the first stream of a +journey he must touch his lips with the end of his wetted bow, +wade across, drop a stone on the far side, and then drink. If he +cuts his nails, he must throw the parings into a thicket. If he +drink from a stream, and also cross it, he must eject a mouthful +of water back into the stream. He must be particularly careful +not to look his mother-in-law in the face. Hundreds of omens by +the manner of their happening may modify actions, as, on what +side of the road a woodpecker calls, or in which direction a hyena +or jackal crosses the path, how the ground hornbill flies or +alights, and the like. He must notice these things, and change +his plans according to their occurrence. If he does not notice +them, they exercise their influence just the same. This does not +encourage a distrait mental attitude. Also it goes far to explain +otherwise unexplainable visitations. Truly, as Hobley says in his +unexcelled work on the A-Kamba, "the life of a savage native is a +complex matter, and he is hedged round by all sorts of rules and +prohibitions, the infringement of which will probably cause his +death, if only by the intense belief he has in the rules which +guide his life." + +*Customs are not universal among the different tribes. I am +merely illustrating. + + +For these rules and customs he never attempts to give a reason. +They are; and that is all there is to it. A mere statement: "This +is the custom" settles the matter finally. There is no necessity, +nor passing thought even, of finding any logical cause. The +matter was worked out in the mental evolution of remote +ancestors. At that time, perhaps, insurgent and Standpatter, +Conservative and Radical fought out the questions of the day, and +the Muckrakers swung by their tails and chattered about it. +Those days are all long since over. The questions of the world +are settled forever. The people have passed through the struggles +of their formative period to the ultimate highest perfection of +adjustment to material and spiritual environment of which they +were capable under the influence of their original racial force. + +Parenthetically, it is now a question whether or not an added +impulse can be communicated from without. Such an impulse must +(a) unsettle all the old beliefs, (b) inspire an era of +skepticism, (c) reintroduce the old struggle of ideas between the +Insurgent and the Standpatter, and Radical and the Conservative, +(d) in the meantime furnish, from the older civilization, +materials, both in the thought-world and in the object-world, for +building slowly a new set of customs more closely approximating +those we are building for ourselves. This is a longer and slower +and more complicated affair than teaching the native to wear +clothes and sing hymns; or to build houses and drink gin; but it +is what must be accomplished step by step before the African +peoples are really civilized. I, personally, do not think it can +be done. + +Now having, a hundred thousand years or so ago, worked out the +highest good of the human race, according to them, what must they +say to themselves and what must their attitude be when the white +man has come and has unrolled his carpet of wonderful tricks? The +dilemma is evident. Either we, as black men, must admit that our +hundred-thousand-year-old ideas as to what constitutes the +highest type of human relation to environment is all wrong, or +else we must evolve a new attitude toward this new phenomena. It +is human nature to do the latter. Therefore the native has not +abandoned his old gods; nor has he adopted a new. He still +believes firmly that his way is the best way of doing things, but +he acknowledges the Superman. + +To the Superman, with all races, anything is possible. Only our +Superman is an idea, and ideal. The native has his Superman +before him in the actual flesh. + +We will suppose that our own Superman has appeared among us, +accomplishing things that apparantly contravene all our +established tenets of skill, of intellect, of possibility. It +will be readily acknowledged that such an individual would at +first create some astonishment. He wanders into a crowded hotel +lobby, let us say, evidently with the desire of going to the bar. +Instead of pushing laboriously through the crowd, he floats just +above their heads, gets his drink, and floats out again! That is +levitation, and is probably just as simple to him as striking a +match is to you and me. After we get thoroughly accustomed to him +and his life, we are no longer vastly astonished, though always +interested, at the various manifestations of his extraordinary +powers. We go right along using the marvellous wireless, +aeroplanes, motor cars, constructive machinery, and the like that +make us confident-justly, of course-in that we are about the +smartest lot of people on earth. And if we see red, white, and +blue streamers of light crossing the zenith at noon, we do not +manifest any very profound amazement. "There's that confounded +Superman again," we mutter, if we happen to be busy. "I wonder +what stunt he's going to do now!" + +A consideration of the above beautiful fable may go a little way +toward explaining the supposed native stolidity in the face of +the white man's wonders. A few years ago some misguided person +brought a balloon to Nairobi. The balloon interested the white +people a lot, but everybody was chiefly occupied wondering what +the natives would do when they saw THAT! The natives did not do +anything. They gathered in large numbers, and most interestedly +watched it go up, and then went home again. But they were not +stricken with wonder to any great extent. So also with +locomotives, motor cars, telephones, phonographs-any of our +modern ingenuities. The native is pleased and entertained, but +not astonished. "Stupid creature, no imagination," say we, +because our pride in showing off is a wee bit hurt. + +Why should he be astonished? His mental revolution took place +when he saw the first match struck. It is manifestly impossible +for any one to make fire instantaneously by rubbing one small +stick. When for the first time he saw it done, he was indeed +vastly astounded. The immutable had been changed. The law had +been transcended. The impossible had been accomplished. And then, +as logical sequence, his mind completed the syllogism. If the +white man can do this impossibility, why not all the rest? To +defy the laws of nature by flying in the air or forcing great +masses of iron to transport one, is no more wonderful than to +defy them by striking a light. Since the white man can provedly +do one, what earthly reason exists why he should not do anything +else that hits his fancy? There is nothing to get astonished at. + +This does not necessarily mean that the native looks on the white +man as a god. On the contrary, your African is very shrewd in the +reading of character. But indubitably white men possess great +magic, uncertain in its extent. + +That is as far as I should care to go, without much deeper +acquaintance, into the attitude of the native mind toward the +whites. A superficial study of it, beyond the general principals +I have enunciated, discloses many strange contradictions. The +native respects the white man's warlike skill, he respects his +physical prowess, he certainly acknowledges tacitly his moral +superiority in the right to command. In case of dispute he likes +the white man's adjudication; in case of illness the man's +medicine; in case of trouble the white man's sustaining hand. Yet +he almost never attempts to copy the white man's appearance or +ways of doing things. His own savage customs and habits he +fulfils with as much pride as ever in their eternal fitness. Once +I was badgering Memba Sasa, asking him whether he thought the +white skin or the black skin the more ornamental. "You are not +white," he retorted at last. "That," pointing to a leaf of my +notebook, "is white. You are red. I do not like the looks of red +people." + +They call our speech the "snake language," because of its hissing +sound. Once this is brought to your attention, indeed, you cannot +help noticing the superabundance of the sibilants. + +A queer melange the pigeonholes of an African's brain must +contain-fear and respect, strongly mingled with clear estimate +of intrinsic character of individuals and a satisfaction with his +own standards. + +Nor, I think, do we realize sufficiently the actual fundamental +differences between the African and our peoples. Physically they +must be in many ways as different from our selves as though they +actually belonged to a different species. The Masai are a fine +big race, enduring, well developed and efficient. They live +exclusively on cow's milk mixed with blood; no meat, no fruit, no +vegetables, no grain; just that and nothing more. Obviously they +must differ from us most radically, or else all our dietetic +theories are wrong. It is a well-known fact that any native +requires a triple dose of white man's medicine. Furthermore a +native's sensitiveness to pain is very much less than the white +man's. This is indubitable. For example, the Wakamba file-or, +rather, chip, by means of a small chisel-all their front teeth +down to needle points, When these happen to fall out, the warrior +substitutes an artificial tooth which he drives down into the +socket. If the savage got the same effects from such a +performance that a white man's dental system would arouse, even +"savage stoicism" would hardly do him much good. There is nothing +to be gained by multiplying examples. Every African traveller can +recall a thousand. + +Incidentally, and by the way, I want to add to the milk-and-blood +joke on dietetics another on the physical culturists. We are all +familiar with the wails over the loss of our toe nails. You know +what I mean; they run somewhat like this: shoes are the curse of +civilization; if we wear them much longer we shall not only lose +the intended use of our feet, but we shall lose our toe nails as +well; the savage man, etc. , etc. , etc. Now I saw a great many of +said savage men in Africa, and I got much interested in their toe +nails, because I soon found that our own civilized "imprisoned" +toe nails were very much better developed. In fact, a large +number of the free and untramelled savages have hardly any toe +nails at all! Whether this upsets a theory, nullifies a +sentimental protest, or merely stands as an exception, I should +not dare guess. But the fact is indubitable. + + + +XVIII. IN THE JUNGLE (a) THE MARCH TO MERU + +Now, one day we left the Isiola River and cut across on a long +upward slant to the left. In a very short time we had left the +plains, and were adrift in an ocean of brown grass that concealed +all but the bobbing loads atop the safari, and over which we +could only see when mounted. It was glorious feed, apparently, +but it contained very few animals for all that. An animal could +without doubt wax fat and sleek therein: but only to furnish +light and salutary meals to beasts of prey. Long grass makes easy +stalking. We saw a few ostriches, some giraffe, and three or four +singly adventurous oryx. The ripening grasses were softer than a +rippling field grain; and even more beautiful in their umber and +browns. Although apparently we travelled a level, nevertheless in +the extreme distance the plains of our hunting were dropping +below, and the far off mountains were slowly rising above the +horizon. On the other side were two very green hills, looking +nearly straight up and down, and through a cleft the splintered +snow-clad summit of Mt. Kenia. + +At length this gentle foothill slope broke over into rougher +country. Then, in the pass, we came upon many parallel beaten +paths, wider and straighter than the game trails-native tracks. +That night we camped in a small, round valley under some glorious +trees, with green grass around us; a refreshing contrast after +the desert brown. In the distance ahead stood a big hill, and at +its base we could make out amid the tree-green, the straight slim +smoke of many fires and the threads of many roads. + +We began our next morning's march early, and we dropped over the +hill into a wide, cultivated valley. Fields of grain, mostly +rape, were planted irregularly among big scattered trees. The +morning air, warming under the sun, was as yet still, and carried +sound well. The cooing, chattering and calling of thousands of +birds mingled with shouts and the clapping together of pieces of +wood. As we came closer we saw that every so often scaffolds had +been erected overlooking the grain, and on these scaffolds naked +boys danced and yelled and worked clappers to scare the birds +from the crops. They seemed to put a great deal of rigour into +the job; whether from natural enthusiasm or efficient direful +supervision I could not say. Certainly they must have worked in +watches, however; no human being could keep up that row +continuously for a single day, let alone the whole season of +ripening grain. As we passed they fell silent and stared their +fill. + +On the banks of a boggy little stream that we had to flounder +across we came on a gentleman and lady travelling. They were a +tall, well formed pair, mahogany in colour, with the open, +pleasant expression of most of these jungle peoples. The man wore +a string around his waist into which was thrust a small leafy +branch; the woman had on a beautiful skirt made by halving a +banana leaf, using the stem as belt, and letting the leaf part +hang down as a skirt. Shortly after meeting these people we +turned sharp to the right on a well beaten road. + +For nearly two weeks we were to follow this road, so it may be as +well to get an idea of it. Its course was a segment of about a +sixth of the circle of Kenia's foothills. With Kenia itself as a +centre, this road swung among the lower elevations about the base +of that great mountain. Its course was mainly down and up +hundreds of the canyons radiating from the main peak, and over the +ridges between them. No sooner were we down, than we had to climb +up; and no sooner were we up, than once more down we had to +plunge. At times, however, we crossed considerable plateaus. Most +of this country was dense jungle, so dense that we could not see +on either side more than fifteen or twenty feet. Occasionally, +atop the ridges, however, we would come upon small open parks. In +these jungles live millions of human beings. + +At once, as soon as we had turned into the main road, we began to +meet people. In the grain fields of the valley we saw only the +elevated boys, and a few men engaged in weaving a little house +perched on stilts. We came across some of these little houses all +completed, with conical roofs. They were evidently used for +granaries. As we mounted the slope on the other side, however, +the trees closed in, and we found ourselves marching down the +narrow aisle of the jungle itself. + +It was a dense and beautiful jungle, with very tall trees and the +deepest shade; and the impenetrable tangle to the edge of the +track. Among the trees were the broad leaves of bananas and +palms, the fling of leafy vines. Over the track these leaned, so +that we rode through splashing and mottling shade. Nothing could +have seemed wilder than this apparently impenetrable and yet we +had ridden but a short distance before we realized that we were +in fact passing through cultivated land. It was, again, only a +difference in terms. Native cultivation in this district rarely +consists of clearing land and planting crops in due order, but in +leaving the forest proper as it is, and in planting foodstuffs +haphazard wherever a tiny space can be made for even three hills +of corn or a single banana. Thus they add to rather than subtract +from the typical density of the jungle. At first, we found, it +took some practice to tell a farm when we saw it. + +>From the track narrow little paths wound immediately out of +sight. Sometimes we saw a wisp of smoke rising above the +undergrowth and eddying in the tops of the trees. Long vine ropes +swung from point to point, hung at intervals with such matters as +feathers, bones, miniature shields, carved sticks, shells and +clappers: either as magic or to keep off the birds. From either +side the track we were conscious always of bright black eyes +watching us. Sometimes we caught a glimpse of their owners +crouched in the bush, concealed behind banana leaves, motionless +and straight against a tree trunk. When they saw themselves +observed they vanished without a sound. + +The upper air was musical with birds, and bright with the flutter +of their wings. Rarely did we see them long enough to catch a +fair idea of their size and shape. They flashed from shade to +shade, leaving only an impression of brilliant colour. There were +some exceptions: as the widower-bird, dressed all in black, with +long trailing wing-plumes of which he seemed very proud; and the +various sorts of green pigeons and parrots. There were many +flowering shrubs and trees, and the air was laden with perfume. +Strange, too, it seemed to see tall trees with leaves three or +four feet long and half as many wide. + +We were riding a mile or so ahead of the safari. At first we were +accompanied only by our gunbearers and syces. Before long, +however, we began to accumulate a following. + +This consisted at first of a very wonderful young man, probably a +chief's son. He carried a long bright spear, wore a short sword +thrust through a girdle, had his hair done in three wrapped +queues, one over each temple and one behind, and was generally +brought to a high state of polish by means of red earth and oil. +About his knee he wore a little bell that jingled pleasingly at +every step. From one shoulder hung a goat-skin cloak embroidered +with steel beads. A small package neatly done up in leaves +probably contained his lunch. He teetered along with a mincing up +and down step, every movement, and the expression of his face +displaying a fatuous self-satisfaction. When we looked back again +this youth had magically become two. Then appeared two women and +a white goat. All except the goat were dressed for visiting, with +long chains of beads, bracelets and anklets, and heavy ornaments +in the distended ear lobes. The manner people sprang apparently +out of the ground was very disconcerting. It was a good deal like +those fairy-story moving pictures where a wave of the wand +produces beautiful ladies. By half an hour we had acquired a long +retinue-young warriors, old men, women and innumerable children. +After we had passed, the new recruits stepped quietly from the +shadow of the jungle and fell in. Every one with nothing much to +do evidently made up his mind he might as well go to Meru now as +any other time. + +Also we met a great number of people going in the other +direction. Women were bearing loads of yams. Chiefs' sons minced +along, their spears poised in their left hands at just the proper +angle, their bangles jingling, their right hands carried raised +in a most affected manner. Their social ease was remarkable, +especially in contrast with the awkwardness of the lower +poverty-stricken or menial castes. The latter drew one side to +let us pass, and stared. Our chiefs' sons, on the other hand, +stepped springingly and beamingly forward; spat carefully in +their hands (we did the same); shook hands all down the line: +exchanged a long-drawn "moo-o-ga!" with each of us; and departed +at the same springing rapid gait. The ordinary warriors greeted +us, but did not offer to shake hands, thank goodness! There were +a great many of them. Across the valleys and through the open +spaces the sun, as it struck down the trail, was always flashing +back from distant spears. Twice we met flocks of sheep being +moved from one point to another. Three or four herdsmen and +innumerable small boys seemed to be in charge. Occasionally we +met a real chief or headman of a village, distinguished by the +fact that he or a servant carried a small wooden stool. With +these dignitaries we always stopped to exchange friendly words. + +These comprised the travelling public. The resident public also +showed itself quite in evidence. Once our retainers had become +sufficiently numerous to inspire confidence, the jungle people no +longer hid. On the contrary, they came out to the very edge of +the track to exchange greetings. They were very good-natured, +exceedingly well-formed, and quite jocular with our boys. +Especially did our suave and elegant Simba sparkle. This resident +public, called from its daily labours and duties, did not always +show as gaudy a make-up as did the dressed-up travelling public. +Banana leaves were popular wear, and seemed to us at once pretty +and fresh. To be sure some had rather withered away; but even +wool will shrink. We saw some grass skirts, like the +Sunday-school pictures. + +At noon we stopped under a tree by a little stream for lunch. +Before long a dozen women were lined up in front of us staring at +Billy with all their might. She nodded and smiled at them. +Thereupon they sent one of their number away. The messenger +returned after a few moments carrying a bunch of the small eating +bananas which she laid at our feet. Billy fished some beads out +of her saddle bags, and presented them. Friendly relations having +been thus fully established, two or three of the women scurried +hastily away, to return a few moments later each with her small +child. To these infants they carefully and earnestly pointed out +Billy and her wonders, talking in a tongue unknown to us. The +admonition undoubtedly ran something like this: + +"Now, my child, look well at this: for when you get to be a very +old person you will be able to look back at the day when with +your own eyes you beheld a white woman. See all the strange +things she wears-and HASN'T she a funny face?" + +We offered these bung-eyed and totally naked youngsters various +bribes in the way of beads, the tinfoil from chocolate, and even +a small piece of the chocolate itself. Most of them howled and +hid their faces against their mothers. The mothers looked +scandalized, and hypocritically astounded, and mortified. + +They made remarks, still in an unknown language, but which much +past experience enabled me to translate very readily: + +"I don't know what has got into little Willie," was the drift of +it. "I have never known him to act this way before. Why, only +yesterday I was saying to his father that it really seemed as +though that child NEVER cried-" + +It made me feel quite friendly and at home. + +Now at last came two marvellous and magnificent personages before +whom the women and children drew back to a respectful distance. +These potentates squatted down and smiled at us engagingly. +Evidently this was a really important couple, so we called up +Simba, who knew the language, and had a talk. + +They were old men, straight, and very tall, with the hawk-faced, +high-headed dignity of the true aristocrat. Their robes were +voluminous, of some short-haired skins, beautifully embroidered. +Around their arms were armlets of polished buffalo horn. They +wore most elaborate ear ornaments, and long cased marquise rings +extending well beyond the first joints of the fingers. Very fine +old gentlemen. They were quite unarmed. + +After appropriate greetings, we learned that these were the chief +and his prime minister of a nearby village hidden in the jungle. +We exchanged polite phrases; then offered tobacco. This was +accepted. From the jungle came a youth carrying more bananas. We +indicated our pleasure. The old men arose with great dignity and +departed, sweeping the women and children before them. + +We rode on. Our acquired retinue, which had waited at a +respectful distance, went on too. I suppose they must have +desired the prestige of being attached to Our Persons. In the +depths of the forest Billy succumbed to the temptation to +bargain, and made her first trade. Her prize was a long water +gourd strapped with leather and decorated with cowry shells. Our +boys were completely scandalized at the price she paid for it, so +I fear the wily savage got ahead of her. + +About the middle of the afternoon we sat down to wait for the +safari to catch up. It would never do to cheat our boys out of +their anticipated grand entrance to the Government post at Meru. +We finally debouched from the forest to the great clearing at the +head of a most impressive procession, flags flying, oryx horns +blowing, boys chanting and beating the sides of their loads with +the safari sticks. As there happened to be gathered, at this +time, several thousand of warriors for the purpose of a council, +or shauri, with the District Commissioner we had just the +audience to delight our barbaric hearts. + +(b) MERU + +The Government post at Meru is situated in a clearing won from the +forest on the first gentle slopes of Kenia's ranges. The clearing +is a very large one, and on it the grass grows green and short, +like a lawn. It resembles, as much as anything else, the rolling, +beautiful downs of a first-class country club, and the illusion +is enhanced by the Commissioner's house among some trees atop a +hill. Well-kept roadways railed with rustic fences lead from the +house to the native quarters lying in the hollow and to the +Government offices atop another hill. Then also there are the +quarters of the Nubian troops; round low houses with conical +grass roofs. + +These, and the presence everywhere of savages, rather take away +from the first country-club effect. A corral seemed full of a +seething mob of natives; we found later that this was the market, +a place of exchange. Groups wandered idly here and there across +the greensward; and other groups sat in circles under the shade +of trees, each man's spear stuck in the ground behind him. At +stated points were the Nubians, fine, tall, black, soldierly men, +with red fez, khaki shirt, and short breeches, bare knees and +feet, spiral puttees, and a broad red sash of webbing. One of +these soldiers assigned us a place to camp. We directed our +safari there, and then immediately rode over to pay our respects +to the Commissioner. + +The latter, Horne by name, greeted us with the utmost cordiality, +and offered us cool drinks. Then we accompanied him to a grand +shauri or council of chiefs. + +Horne was a little chap, dressed in flannels and a big slouch +hat, carrying only a light rawhide whip, with very little of the +dignity and "side" usually considered necessary in dealing with +wild natives. The post at Meru had been established only two +years, among a people that had always been very difficult, and +had only recently ceased open hostilities. Nevertheless in that +length of time Horne's personal influence had won them over to +positive friendliness. He had, moreover, done the entire +construction work of the post itself; and this we now saw to be +even more elaborate than we had at first realized. Irrigating +ditches ran in all directions brimming with clear mountain water; +the roads and paths were rounded, graded and gravelled; the +houses were substantial, well built and well kept; fences, except +of course the rustic, were whitewashed; the native quarters and +"barracks" were well ranged and in perfect order. The place +looked ten years old instead of only two. + +We followed Horne to an enclosure, outside the gate of which were +stacked a great number of spears. Inside we found the owners of +those spears squatted before the open side of a small, +three-walled building containing a table and a chair. Horne +placed himself in the chair, lounged back, and hit the table +smartly with his rawhide whip. From the centre of the throng an +old man got up and made quite a long speech. When he had finished +another did likewise. All was carried out with the greatest +decorum. After four or five had thus spoken, Horne, without +altering his lounging attitude, spoke twenty or thirty words, +rapped again on the table with his rawhide whip, and immediately +came over to us. + +"Now," said he cheerfully, "we'll have a game of golf." + +That was amusing, but not astonishing. Most of us have at one +time or another laid out a scratch hole or so somewhere in the +vacant lot. We returned to the house, Horne produced a +sufficiency of clubs, and we sallied forth. Then came the surprise +of our life! We played eighteen holes-eighteen, mind you-over +an excellently laid-out and kept-up course! The fair greens were +cropped short and smooth by a well-managed small herd of sheep; +the putting greens were rolled, and in perfect order; bunkers had +been located at the correct distances; there were water hazards +in the proper spots. In short, it was a genuine, scientific, +well-kept golf course. Over it played Horne, solitary except on +the rare occasions when he and his assistant happened to be at +the post at the same time. The nearest white man was six days' +journey; the nearest small civilization 196 miles.* The whole +affair was most astounding. + +*Which was, in turn, over three hundred miles from the next. + + +Our caddies were grinning youngsters a good deal like the Gold +Dust Twins. They wore nothing but our golf bags. Afield were +other supernumerary caddies: one in case we sliced, one in case +we pulled, and one in case we drove straight ahead. Horne +explained that unlimited caddies were easier to get than +unlimited golf balls. I can well believe it. + +F. joined forces with Horne against B. and me for a grand +international match. I regret to state that America was defeated +by two holes. + +We returned to find our camp crowded with savages. In a short +time we had established trade relations and were doing a brisk +business. Two years before we should have had to barter +exclusively; but now, thanks to Horne's attempt to collect an +annual hut tax, money was some good. We had, however, very good +luck with bright blankets and cotton cloth. Our beads did not +happen here to be in fashion. Probably three months earlier or +later we might have done better with them. The feminine mind here +differs in no basic essential from that of civilization. Fashions +change as rapidly, as often and as completely in the jungle as in +Paris. The trader who brings blue beads when blue beads have +"gone out" might just as well have stayed at home. We bought a +number of the pretty "marquise" rings for four cents apiece (our +money), some war clubs or rungas for the same, several spears, +armlets, stools and the like. Billy thought one of the short, +soft skin cloaks embroidered with steel beads might be nice to +hang on the wall. We offered a youth two rupees for one. This +must have been a high price, for every man in hearing of the +words snatched off his cloak and rushed forward holding it out. +As that reduced his costume to a few knick-knacks, Billy retired +from the busy mart until we could arrange matters. + +We dined with Horne. His official residence was most interesting. +The main room was very high to beams and a grass-thatched roof, +with a well-brushed earth floor covered with mats. It contained +comfortable furniture, a small library, a good phonograph, +tables, lamps and the like. When the mountain chill descended, +Horne lit a fire in a coal-oil can with a perforated bottom. What +little smoke was produced by the clean burning wood lost itself +far aloft. Leopard skins and other trophies hung on the wall. We +dined in another room at a well-appointed table. After dinner we +sat up until the unheard of hour of ten o'clock discussing at +length many matters that interested us. Horne told us of his +personal bodyguard consisting of one son from each chief of his +wide district. These youths were encouraged to make as good an +appearance as possible, and as a consequence turned out in the +extreme of savage gorgeousness. Horne spoke of them carelessly +as a "matter of policy in keeping the different tribes well +disposed," but I thought he was at heart a little proud of them. +Certainly, later and from other sources, we heard great tales of +their endurance, devotion and efficiency. Also we heard that +Horne had cut in half his six months' leave (earned by three +years' continuous service in the jungle) to hurry back from +England because he could not bear the thought of being absent +from the first collection of the hut tax! He is a good man. + +We said good-night to him and stepped from the lighted house into +the vast tropical night. The little rays of our lantern showed us +the inequalities of the ground, and where to step across the +bubbling, little irrigation streams. But thousands of stars +insisted on a simplification. The broad, rolling meadows of the +clearing lay half guessed in the dim light; and about its edge +was the velvet band of the forest, dark and mysterious, +stretching away for leagues into the jungle. From it near at +hand, far away, came the rhythmic beating of solemn great drums, +and the rising and falling chants of the savage peoples. + +(C) THE CHIEFS + +We left Meru well observed by a very large audience, much to the +delight of our safari boys, who love to show off. We had acquired +fourteen more small boys, or totos, ranging in age from eight to +twelve years. These had been fitted out by their masters to +alleviate their original shenzi appearance of savagery. Some had +ragged blankets, which they had already learned to twist turban +wise around their heads; others had ragged old jerseys reaching +to their knees, or the wrecks of full-grown undershirts; one or +two even sported baggy breeches a dozen sizes too large. Each +carried his little load, proudly, atop his head like a real +porter, sufurias or cooking pots, the small bags of potio, and +the like. Inside a mile they had gravitated together and with the +small boy's relish for imitation and for playing a game, had +completed a miniature safari organization of their own. +Thenceforth they marched in a compact little company, under +orders of their "headman." They marched very well, too, straight +and proud and tireless. Of course we inspected their loads to see +that they were not required to carry too much for their strength; +but, I am bound to say, we never discovered an attempt at +overloading. In fact, the toto brigade was treated very well +indeed. M'ganga especially took great interest in their education +and welfare. One of my most vivid camp recollections is that of +M'ganga, very benign and didactic, seated on a chop box and +holding forth to a semicircle of totos squatted on the ground +before him. On reaching camp totos had several clearly defined +duties: they must pick out good places for their masters' +individual camps, they must procure cooking stones, they must +collect kindling wood and start fires, they must fill the +sufurias with water and set them over to boil. In the meantime, +their masters were attending to the pitching of the bwana's camp. +The rest of the time the toto played about quite happily, and did +light odd jobs, or watched most attentively while his master +showed him small details of a safari-boy's duty, or taught him +simple handicraft. Our boys seemed to take great pains with +their totos and to try hard to teach them. + +Also at Meru we had acquired two cocks and four hens of the +ridiculously small native breed. These rode atop the loads: their +feet were tied to the cords and there they swayed and teetered +and balanced all day long, apparently quite happy and interested. +At each new camp site they were released and went scratching and +clucking around among the tents. They lent our temporary quarters +quite a settled air of domesticity. We named the cocks Gaston and +Alphonse and somehow it was rather fine, in the blackness before +dawn, to hear these little birds crowing stout-heartedly against +the great African wilderness. Neither Gaston, Alphonse nor any of +their harem were killed and eaten by their owners; but seemed +rather to fulfil the function of household pets. + +Along the jungle track we met swarms of people coming in to the +post. One large native safari composed exclusively of women were +transporting loads of trade goods for the Indian trader. They +carried their burdens on their backs by means of a strap passing +over the top of the head; our own "tump line" method. The labour +seemed in no way to have dashed their spirits, for they grinned +at us, and joked merrily with our boys. Along the way, every once +in a while, we came upon people squatted down behind small stocks +of sugarcane, yams, bananas, and the like. With these our boys +did a brisk trade. Little paths led mysteriously into the jungle. +Down them came more savages to greet us. Everybody was most +friendly and cheerful, thanks to Horne's personal influence. Two +years before this same lot had been hostile. From every hidden +village came the headmen or chiefs. They all wanted to shake +hands-the ordinary citizen never dreamed of aspiring to that +honour-and they all spat carefully into their palms before they +did so. This all had to be done in passing; for ordinary village +headmen it was beneath Our Dignity to draw rein. Once only we +broke over this rule. That was in the case of an old fellow with +white hair who managed to get so tangled up in the shrubbery that +he could not get to us. He was so frantic with disappointment +that we made an exception and waited. + +About three miles out, we lost one of our newly acquired totos. +Reason: an exasperated parent who had followed from Meru for the +purpose of reclaiming his runaway offspring. The latter was +dragged off howling. Evidently he, like some of his civilized +cousins, had "run away to join the circus." As nearly as we could +get at it, the rest of the totos, as well as the nine additional +we picked up before we quitted the jungle, had all come with +their parents' consent. In fact, we soon discovered that we could +buy any amount of good sound totos, not house broke however, for +an average of half a rupee (16-1/2 cents) apiece. + +The road was very much up and down hill over the numerous ridges +that star-fish out from Mt. Kenia. We would climb down steep +trails from 200 to 800 feet (measured by aneroid), cross an +excellent mountain stream of crystalline dashing water, and climb +out again. The trails of course had no notion of easy grades. It +was very hard work, especially for men with loads; and it would +have been impossible on account of the heat were it not for the +numerous streams. On the slopes and in the bottoms were patches +of magnificent forest; on the crests was the jungle, and +occasionally an outlook over extended views. The birds and the +strange tropical big-leaved trees were a constant delight-exotic +and strange. Billy was in a heaven of joy, for her specialty in +Africa was plants, seeds and bulbs, for her California garden. +She had syces, gunbearers and tent boys all climbing, shaking +branches, and generally pawing about. + +This idiosyncracy of Billy's puzzled our boys hugely. At first +they tried telling her that everything was poisonous; but when +that did not work, they resigned themselves to their fate. In +fact, some of the most enterprising like Memba Sasa, Kitaru, and, +later, Kongoni used of their own accord to hunt up and bring in +seeds and blossoms. They did not in the least understand what it +was for; and it used to puzzle them hugely until out of sheer +pity for their uneasiness, I implied that the Memsahib collected +"medicine." That was rational, so the wrinkled brow of care was +smoothed. From this botanical trait, Billy got her native name of +"Beebee Kooletta"-"The Lady Who Says: Go Get That." For in +Africa every white man has a name by which he is known among the +native people. If you would get news of your friends, you must +know their local cognomens-their own white man names will not do +at all. For example, I was called either Bwana Machumwani or +Bwana N'goma. The former means merely Master Four-eyes, referring +to my glasses. The precise meaning of the latter is a matter much +disputed between myself and Billy. An N'goma is a native dance, +consisting of drum poundings, chantings, and hoppings around. +Therefore I translate myself (most appropriately) as the Master +who Makes Merry. On the other hand, Billy, with true feminine +indirectness, insists that it means "The Master who Shouts and +Howls." I leave it to any fairminded reader. + +About the middle of the morning we met a Government runner, a +proud youth, young, lithe, with many ornaments and bangles; his +red skin glistening; the long blade of his spear, bound around +with a red strip to signify his office, slanting across his +shoulder; his buffalo hide shield slung from it over his back; +the letter he was bearing stuck in a cleft stick and carried +proudly before him as a priest carries a cross to the heathen-in +the pictures. He was swinging along at a brisk pace, but on +seeing us drew up and gave us a smart military salute. + +At one point where the path went level and straight for some +distance, we were riding in an absolute solitude. Suddenly from +the jungle on either side and about fifty yards ahead of us +leaped a dozen women. They were dressed in grass skirts, and +carried long narrow wooden shields painted white and brown. These +they clashed together, shrieked shrilly, and charged down on us +at full speed. When within a few yards of our horses noses they +came to a sudden halt, once more clashed their shields, shrieked, +turned and scuttled away as fast as their legs could carry them. +At a hundred yards they repeated the performance; and charged back +at us again. Thus advancing and retreating, shrieking high, +hitting the wooden shields with resounding crash, they preceded +our slow advance for a half mile or so. Then at some signal +unperceived by us they vanished abruptly into the jungle. Once +more we rode forward in silence and in solitude. Why they did it +I could not say. + +Of this tissue were our days made. At noon our boys plucked us +each two or three banana leaves which they spread down for us to +lie on. Then we dozed through the hot hours in great comfort, +occasionally waking to blue sky through green trees, or to peer +idly into the tangled jungle. At two o'clock or a little later we +would arouse ourselves reluctantly and move on. The safari we had +dimly heard passing us an hour before. In this country of the +direct track we did not attempt to accompany our men. + +The end of the day's march found us in a little clearing where we +could pitch camp. Generally this was atop a ridge, so that the +boys had some distance to carry water; but that disadvantage was +outweighed by the cleared space. Sometimes we found ourselves +hemmed in by a wall of jungle. Again we enjoyed a broad outlook. +One such in especial took in the magnificent, splintered, +snow-capped peak of Kenia on the right, a tremendous gorge and +rolling forested mountains straight ahead, and a great drop to a +plain with other and distant mountains to the left. It was as +fine a panoramic view as one could imagine. + +Our tents pitched, and ourselves washed and refreshed, we gave +audience to the resident chief, who had probably been waiting. +With this potentate we conversed affably, after the usual +expectoratorial ceremonies. Billy, being a mere woman, did not +always come in for this; but nevertheless she maintained what she +called her "quarantine gloves," and kept them very handy. We had +standing orders with our boys for basins of hot water to be +waiting always behind our tents. After the usual polite exchanges +we informed the chief of our needs-firewood, perhaps, milk, a +sheep or the like. These he furnished. When we left we made him a +present of a few beads, a knife, a blanket or such according to +the value of his contribution. + +To me these encounters were some of the most interesting of our +many experiences, for each man differed radically from every +other in his conceptions of ceremony, in his ideas, and in his +methods. Our coming was a good deal of an event, always, and each +chief, according to his temperament and training, tried to do +things up properly. And in that attempt certain basic traits of +human nature showed in the very strongest relief. Thus there are +three points of view to take in running any spectacle: that of +the star performer, the stage manager, or the truly artistic. We +encountered well-marked specimens of each. I will tell you about +them. + +The star performer knew his stagecraft thoroughly; and in the +exposition of his knowledge he showed incidentally how truly +basic are the principles of stagecraft anywhere. + +We were seated under a tree near the banks of a stream eating our +lunch. Before us appeared two tall and slender youths, wreathed +in smiles, engaging, and most attentive to the small niceties of +courtesy. We returned their greeting from our recumbent +positions, whereupon they made preparation to squat down +beside us. + +"Are you sultans?" we demanded sternly, "that you attempt to sit +in Our Presence," and we lazily kicked the nearest. + +Not at all abashed, but favourably impressed with our +transcendent importance-as we intended-they leaned gracefully +on their spears and entered into conversation. After a few +trifles of airy persiflage they got down to business. + +"This," said they, indicating the tiny flat, "is the most +beautiful place to camp in all the mountains." + +We doubted it. + +"Here is excellent water." + +We agreed to that. + +"And there is no more water for a journey." + +"You are liars," we observed politely. + +"And near is the village of our chief, who is a great warrior, +and will bring you many presents; the greatest man in these +parts." + +"Now you're getting to it," we observed in English; "you want +trade." Then in Swahili, "We shall march two hours longer." + +After a few polite phrases they went away. We finished lunch, +remounted, and rode up the trail. At the edge of the canyon we +came to a wide clearing, at the farther side of which was +evidently the village in question. But the merry villagers, down +to the last toro, were drawn up at the edge of the track in a +double line through which we rode. They were very wealthy +savages, and wore it all. Bright neck, arm, and leg ornaments, +yards and yards of cowry shells in strings, blue beads of all +sizes (blue beads were evidently "in"), odd scraps and shapes of +embroidered skins, clean shaves and a beautiful polish +characterized this holiday gathering. We made our royal progress +between the serried ranks. About eight or ten seconds after we +had passed the last villager-just the proper dramatic pause, you +observe-the bushes parted and a splendid, straight, springy young +man came into view and stepped smilingly across the space that +separated us. And about eight or ten seconds after his +emergence-again just the right dramatic pause-the bushes parted +again to give entrance to four of the quaintest little dolls of +wives. These advanced all abreast, parted, and took up positions +two either side the smiling chief. This youth was evidently in +the height of fashion, his hair braided in a tight queue bound +with skin, his ears dangling with ornaments, heavy necklaces +around his neck, and armlets etc., ad lib. His robe was of fine +monkey skin embroidered with rosettes of beads, and his spear was +very long, bright and keen. He was tall and finely built carried +himself with a free, lithe swing. As the quintette came to halt, +the villagers fell silent and our shauri began. + +We drew up and dismounted. We all expectorated as gentlemen. + +"These," said he proudly, "are my beebees." + +We replied that they seemed like excellent beebees and politely +inquired the price of wives thereabout, and also the market for +totos. He gave us to understand that such superior wives as these +brought three cows and twenty sheep apiece, but that you could +get a pretty good toto for half a rupee. + +"When we look upon our women," he concluded grandly, "we find +them good; but when we look upon the white women they are as +nothing!" He completely obliterated the poor little beebees with +a magnificent gesture. They looked very humble and abashed. I +was, however, a bit uncertain as to whether this was intended as +a genuine tribute to Billy, or was meant to console us for having +only one to his four. + +Now observe the stagecraft of all this: entrance of diplomats, +preliminary conversation introducing the idea of the greatness of +N'Zahgi (for that was his name), chorus of villagers, and, as +climax, dramatic entrance of the hero and heroines. It was pretty +well done. + +Again we stopped about the middle of the afternoon in an opening +on the rounded top of a hill. While waiting for the safari to +come up, Billy wandered away fifty or sixty yards to sit under a +big tree. She did not stay long. Immediately she was settled, a +dozen women and young girls surrounded her. They were almost +uproariously good-natured, but Billy was probably the first white +woman they had ever seen, and they intended to make the most of +her. Every item of her clothes and equipment they examined +minutely, handled and discussed. When she told them with great +dignity to go away, they laughed consumedly, fairly tumbling into +each other's arms with excess of joy. Billy tried to gather her +effects for a masterly retreat, but found the press of numbers +too great. At last she had to signal for help. One of us wandered +over with a kiboko with which lightly he flicked the legs of such +damsels as he could reach. They scattered like quail, laughing +hilariously. Billy was escorted back to safety. + +Shortly after the Chief and his Prime Minister came in. He was a +little old gray-haired gentleman, as spry as a cricket, quite +nervous, and very chatty. We indicated our wants to him, and he +retired after enunciating many words. The safari came in, made +camp. We had tea and a bath. The darkness fell; and still no +Chief, no milk, no firewood, no promises fulfilled. There were +plenty of natives around camp, but when we suggested that they +get out and rustle on our behalf, they merely laughed +good-naturedly. We seriously contemplated turning the whole lot +out of camp. + +Finally we gave it up, and sat down to our dinner. It was now +quite dark. The askaris had built a little campfire out in front. + +Then, far in the distance of the jungle's depths, we heard a +faint measured chanting as of many people coming nearer. From +another direction this was repeated. The two processions +approached each other; their paths converged; the double chanting +became a chorus that grew moment by moment. We heard beneath the +wild weird minors the rhythmic stamping of feet, and the tapping +of sticks. The procession debouched from the jungle's edge into +the circle of the firelight. Our old chief led, accompanied by a +bodyguard in all the panoply of war: ostrich feather circlets +enclosing the head and face, shields of bright heraldry, long +glittering spears. These were followed by a dozen of the +quaintest solemn dolls of beebees dressed in all the white cowry +shells, beads and brass the royal treasury afforded, very +earnest, very much on inspection, every little head uplifted, +singing away just as hard as ever they could. Each carried a +gourd of milk, a bunch of bananas, some sugarcane, yams or the +like. Straight to the fire marched the pageant. Then the warriors +dividing right and left, drew up facing each other in two lines, +struck their spears upright in the ground, and stood at +attention. The quaint brown little women lined up to close the +end of this hollow square, of which our group was, roughly +speaking, the fourth side. Then all came to attention. The song +now rose to a wild and ecstatic minor chanting. The beebees, +still singing, one by one cast their burdens between the files +and at our feet in the middle of the hollow square. Then they +continued their chant, singing away at the tops of their little +lungs, their eyes and teeth showing, their pretty bodies held +rigidly upright. The warriors, very erect and military, stared +straight ahead. + +And the chief? Was he the centre of the show, the important +leading man, to the contemplation of whom all these glories led? +Not at all! This particular chief did not have the soul of a +leading man, but rather the soul of a stage manager. Quite +forgetful of himself and his part in the spectacle, his brow +furrowed with anxiety, he was flittering from one to another of +the performers. He listened carefully to each singer in turn, +holding his hand behind his ear to catch the individual note, +striking one on the shoulder in admonition, nodding approval at +another. He darted unexpectedly across to scrutinize a warrior, +in the chance of catching a flicker of the eyelid even. Nary a +flicker! They did their stage manager credit, and stood like +magnificent bronzes. He even ran across to peer into our own +faces to see how we liked it. + +With a sudden crescendo the music stopped. Involuntarily we broke +into handclapping. The old boy looked a bit startled at this, but +we explained to him, and he seemed very pleased. We then accepted +formally the heap of presents, by touching them-and in turn +passed over a blanket, a box of matches, and two needles, +together with beads for the beebees. Then F., on an inspiration, +produced his flashlight. This made a tremendous sensation. The +women tittered and giggled and blinked as its beams were thrown +directly into their eyes; the chief's sons grinned and guffawed; +the chief himself laughed like a pleased schoolboy, and seemed +never to weary of the sudden shutting on and off of the switch. +But the trusty Spartan warriors, standing still in their +formation behind their planted spears, were not to be shaken. +They glared straight in front of them, even when we held the +light within a few inches of their eyes, and not a muscle +quivered! + +"It is wonderful! wonderful!" the old man repeated. "Many +Government men have come here, but none have had anything like +that! The bwanas must be very great sultans!" + +After the departure of our friends, we went rather grandly to +bed. We always did after any one had called us sultans. + +But our prize chief was an individual named M'booley.* Our camp +here also was on a fine cleared hilltop between two streams. +After we had traded for a while with very friendly and prosperous +people M'booley came in. He was young, tall, straight, with a +beautiful smooth lithe form, and his face was hawklike and +cleverly intelligent. He carried himself with the greatest +dignity and simplicity, meeting us on an easy plane of +familiarity. I do not know how I can better describe his manner +toward us than to compare it to the manner the member of an +exclusive golf club would use to one who is a stranger, but +evidently a guest. He took our quality for granted; and supposed +we must do the same by him, neither acting as though he +considered us "great white men," nor yet standing aloof and too +respectful. And as the distinguishing feature of all, he was +absolutely without personal ornament. + +*Pronounce each o separately. + + +Pause for a moment to consider what a real advance in esthetic +taste that one little fact stands for. All M'booley's attendants +were the giddiest and gaudiest savages we had yet seen, with more +colobus fur, sleighbells, polished metal, ostrich plumes, and red +paint than would have fitted out any two other royal courts of +the jungle. The women too were wealthy and opulent without limit. +It takes considerable perception among our civilized people to +realize that severe simplicity amid ultra magnificence makes the +most effective distinguishing of an individual. If you do not +believe it, drop in at the next ball to which you are invited. +M'booley had fathomed this, and what was more he had the strength +of mind to act on it. Any savage loves finery for its own sake. +His hair was cut short, and shaved away at the edges to leave +what looked like an ordinary close-fitting skull cap. He wore one +pair of plain armlets on his left upper arm and small simple +ear-rings. His robe was black. He had no trace of either oil or +paint, nor did he even carry a spear. + +He greeted us with good-humoured ease, and inquired +conversationally if we wanted anything. We suggested wood and +milk, whereupon still smiling, he uttered a few casual words in +his own language to no one in particular. There was no earthly +doubt that he was chief. Three of the most gorgeous and haughty +warriors ran out of camp. Shortly long files of women came in +bringing loads of firewood; and others carrying bananas, yams, +sugarcane and a sheep. Truly M'booley did things on a princely +scale. We thanked him. He accepted the thanks with a casual +smile, waved his hand and went on to talk of something else. In +due order our M'ganga brought up one of our best trade blankets, +to which we added a half dozen boxes of matches and a razor. + +Now into camp filed a small procession: four women, four +children, and two young men. These advanced to where M'booley was +standing smoking with great satisfaction one of B's tailor-made +cigarettes. M'booley advanced ten feet to meet them, and brought +them up to introduce them one by one in the most formal fashion. +These were of course his family, and we had to confess that they +"saw" N'Zahgi's outfit of ornaments and "raised" him beyond the +ceiling. We gave them each in turn the handshake of ceremony, +first with the palms as we do it, and then each grasping the +other's upright thumb. The "little chiefs" were proud, +aristocratic little fellows, holding themselves very straight and +solemn. I think one would have known them for royalty anywhere. + +It was quite a social occasion. None of our guests was in the +least ill at ease; in fact, the young ladies were quite coy and +flirtatious. We had a great many jokes. Each of the little ladies +received a handful of prevailing beads. M'booley smiled benignly +at these delightful femininities. After a time he led us to the +edge of the hill and showed us his houses across the cation, +perched on a flat about halfway up the wall. They were of the +usual grass-thatched construction, but rather larger and neater +than most. Examining them through the glasses we saw that a +little stream had been diverted to flow through the front yard. +M'booley waved his hand abroad and gave us to understand that he +considered the outlook worth looking at. It was; but an +appreciation of that fact is foreign to the average native. Next +morning, when we rode by very early, we found the little flat +most attractively cleared and arranged. M'booley was out to shake +us by the hand in farewell, shivering in the cold of dawn. The +flirtatious and spoiled little beauties were not in evidence. + +One day after two very deep canyons we emerged from the forest +jungle into an up and down country of high jungle bush-brush. +>From the top of a ridge it looked a good deal like a northern +cut-over pine country grown up very heavily to blackberry vines; +although, of course, when we came nearer, the "blackberry vines" +proved to be ten or twenty feet high. This was a district of +which Horne had warned us. The natives herein were reported +restless and semi-hostile; and in fact had never been friendly. +They probably needed the demonstration most native tribes seem to +require before they are content to settle down and be happy. At +any rate safaris were not permitted in their district; and we +ourselves were allowed to go through merely because we were a +large party, did not intend to linger, and had a good reputation +with natives. + +It is very curious how abruptly, in Central Africa, one passes +from one condition to another, from one tribe or race to the +next. Sometimes, as in the present case, it is the traversing of +a deep cation; at others the simple crossing of a tiny brook is +enough. Moreover the line of demarcation is clearly defined, as +boundaries elsewhere are never defined save in wartime. + +Thus we smiled our good-bye to a friendly numerous people, +descended a hill, and ascended another into a deserted track. +After a half mile we came unexpectedly on to two men carrying +each a load of reeds. These they abandoned and fled up the +hillside through the jungle, in spite of our shouted assurances. +A moment later they reappeared at some distance above us, each +with a spear he had snatched from somewhere; they were unarmed +when we first caught sight of them. Examined through the glasses +they proved to be sullen looking men, copper coloured, but broad +across the cheekbones, broad in the forehead, more decidedly of +the negro type than our late hosts. + +Aside from these two men we travelled through an apparently +deserted jungle. I suspect, however, that we were probably well +watched; for when we stopped for noon we heard the gunbearers +beyond the screen of leaves talking to some one. On learning from +our boys that these were some of the shenzis, we told them to +bring the savages in for a shauri; but in this our men failed, +nor could they themselves get nearer than fifty yards or so to +the wild people. So until evening our impression remained that of +two distant men, and the indistinct sound of voices behind a +leafy screen. + +We made camp comparatively early in a wide open space surrounded +by low forest. Almost immediately then the savages commenced to +drift in, very haughty and arrogant. They were fully armed. +Besides the spear and decorated shield, some of them carried the +curious small grass spears. These are used to stab upward from +below, the wielder lying flat in the grass. Some of these men +were fantastically painted with a groundwork ochre, on which had +been drawn intricate wavy designs on the legs, like stockings, +and varied stripes across the face. One particularly ingenious +individual, stark naked, had outlined a roughly entire skeleton! He +was a gruesome object! They stalked here and there through the +camp, looking at our men and their activities with a lofty and +silent contempt. + +You may be sure we had our arrangements, though they did not +appear on the surface. The askaris, or native soldiers, were +posted here and there with their muskets; the gunbearers also +kept our spare weapons by them. The askaris could not hit a barn, but +they could make a noise. The gunbearers were fair shots. + +Of course the chief and his prime minister came in. They were +evil-looking savages. To them we paid not the slightest +attention, but went about our usual business as though they did +not exist. At the end of an hour they of their own initiative +greeted us. We did not hear them. Half an hour later they +disappeared, to return after an interval, followed by a string of +young men bearing firewood. Evidently our bearing had impressed +them, as we had intended. We then unbent far enough to recognize +them, carried on a formal conversation for a few moments, gave +them adequate presents and dismissed them. Then we ordered the +askaris to clear camp and to keep it clear. No women had +appeared. Even the gifts of firewood had been carried by men, a +most unusual proceeding. + +As soon as dark fell the drums began roaring in the forest all +about our clearing, and the chanting to rise. We instructed our +men to shoot first and inquire afterward, if a shenzi so much as +showed himself in the clearing. This was not as bad as it +sounded; the shenzi stood in no immediate danger. Then we turned +in to a sleep rather light and broken by uncertainty. I do not +think we were in any immediate danger of a considered attack, for +these people were not openly hostile; but there was always a +chance that the savages might by their drum pounding and dancing +work themselves into a frenzy. Then we might have to do a little +rapid shooting. Not for one instant the whole night long did +those misguided savages cease their howling and dancing. At any +rate we cost them a night's sleep. + +Next morning we took up our march through the deserted tracks +once more. Not a sign of human life did we encounter. About ten +o'clock we climbed down a tremendous gash of a box canyon with +precipitous cliffs. From below we looked back to see, perched +high against the skyline, the motionless figures of many savages +watching us from the crags. So we had had company after all, and +we had not known it. This canyon proved to be the boundary line. +With the same abruptness we passed again into friendly country. + +(d) OUT THE OTHER SIDE + +We left the jungle finally when we turned on a long angle away +from Kenia. At first the open country of the foothills was +closely cultivated with fields of rape and maize. We saw some of +the people breaking new soil by means of long pointed sticks. The +plowmen quite simply inserted the pointed end in the ground and +pried. It was very slow hard work. In other fields the grain +stood high and good. From among the stalks, as from a miniature +jungle, the little naked totos stared out, and the good-natured +women smiled at us. The magnificent peak of Kenia had now shaken +itself free of the forests. On its snow the sunrises and sunsets +kindled their fires. The flames of grass fires, too, could +plainly be made out, incredible distances away, and at daytime, +through the reek, were fascinating suggestions of distant rivers, +plains, jungles, and hills. You see, we were still practically on +the wide slope of Kenia's base, though the peak was many days +away, and so could look out over wide country. + +The last half day of this we wandered literally in a rape field. +The stalks were quite above our heads, and we could see but a few +yards in any direction. In addition the track had become a +footpath not over two feet wide. We could occasionally look back +to catch glimpses of a pack or so bobbing along on a porter's +head. From our own path hundreds of other paths branched; we were +continually taking the wrong fork and moving back to set the +safari right before it could do likewise. This we did by drawing +a deep double line in the earth across the wrong trail. Then we +hustled on ahead to pioneer the way a little farther; our +difficulties were further complicated by the fact that we had +sent our horses back to Nairobi for fear of the tsetse fly, so we +could not see out above the corn. All we knew was that we ought +to go down hill. + +At the ends of some of our false trails we came upon fascinating +little settlements: groups of houses inside brush enclosures, +with low wooden gateways beneath which we had to stoop to enter. +Within were groups of beehive houses with small naked children +and perhaps an old woman or old man seated cross-legged under a +sort of veranda. From them we obtained new-and confusing- +directions. + +After three o'clock we came finally out on the edge of a cliff +fifty or sixty feet high, below which lay uncultivated bottom +lands like a great meadow and a little meandering stream. We +descended the cliff, and camped by the meandering stream. + +By this time we were fairly tired from long walking in the heat, +and so were content to sit down under our tent-fly before our +little table, and let Mahomet bring us sparklets and lime juice. +Before us was the flat of a meadow below the cliffs and the +cliffs themselves. Just below the rise lay a single patch of +standing rape not over two acres in extent, the only sign of +human life. It was as though this little bit had overflowed from +the countless millions on the plateau above. Beyond it arose a +thin signal of smoke. + +We sipped our lime juice and rested. Soon our attention was +attracted by the peculiar actions of a big flock of very white +birds. They rose suddenly from one side of the tiny rape field, +wheeled and swirled like leaves in the wind, and dropped down +suddenly on the other side the patch. After a few moments they +repeated the performance. The sun caught the dazzling white of +their plumage. At first we speculated on what they might be, then +on what they were doing, to behave in so peculiar a manner. The +lime juice and the armchair began to get in their recuperative +work. Somehow the distance across that flat did not seem quite as +tremendous as at first. Finally I picked up the shotgun and +sauntered across to investigate. The cause of action I soon +determined. The owner of that rape field turned out to be an +emaciated, gray-haired but spry old savage. He was armed with a +spear; and at the moment his chief business in life seemed to be +chasing a large flock of white birds off his grain. Since he had +no assistance, and since the birds held his spear in justifiable +contempt as a fowling piece, he was getting much exercise and few +results. The birds gave way before his direct charge, flopped +over to the other side, and continued their meal. They had +already occasioned considerable damage; the rape heads were bent +and destroyed for a space of perhaps ten feet from the outer edge +of the field. As this grain probably constituted the old man's food supply +for a season, I did not wonder at the vehemence with which he shook +his spear at his enemies, nor the apparent flavour of his language, +though I did marvel at his physical endurance. As for the birds, +they had become cynical and impudent; they barely fluttered out +of the way. + +I halted the old gentleman and hastened to explain that I was +neither a pirate, a robber, nor an oppressor of the poor. This as +counter-check to his tendency to flee, leaving me in sole charge. +He understood a little Swahili, and talked a few words of +something he intended for that language. By means of our mutual +accomplishment in that tongue, and through a more efficient sign +language, I got him to understand the plan of campaign. It was +very simple. I squatted down inside the rape, while he went +around the other side to scare them up. + +The white birds uttered their peculiarly derisive cackle at the +old man and flapped over to my side. Then they were certainly an +astonished lot of birds. I gave them both barrels and dropped a +pair; got two more shots as they swung over me and dropped +another pair, and brought down a straggling single as a grand +finale. The flock, with shrill, derogatory remarks, flew in an +airline straight away. They never deviated, as far as I could +follow them with the eye. Even after they had apparently +disappeared, I could catch an occasional flash of white in the +sun. + +Now the old gentleman came whooping around with long, undignified +bounds to fall on his face and seize my foot in an excess of +gratitude. He rose and capered about, he rushed out and gathered +in the slain one by one and laid them in a pile at my feet. Then +he danced a jig-step around them and reviled them, and fell on +his face once more, repeating the word "Bwana! bwana! bwana!" +over and over-"Master! master! master!" We returned to camp +together, the old gentleman carrying the birds, and capering +about like a small boy, pouring forth a flood of his sort of +Swahili, of which I could understand only a word here and there. +Memba Sasa, very dignified and scornful of such performances, met +us halfway and took my gun. He seemed to be able to understand +the old fellow's brand of Swahili, and said it over again in a +brand I could understand. From it I gathered that I was called a +marvellously great sultan, a protector of the poor, and other +Arabian Nights titles. + +The birds proved to be white egrets. Now at home I am strongly +against the killing of these creatures, and have so expressed +myself on many occasions. But, looking from the beautiful white +plumage of these villainous mauraders, to the wrinkled countenance +of the grateful weary old savage, I could not fan a spark of +regret. And from the straight line of their retreating flight I +like to think that the rest of the flock never came back, but +took their toll from the wider fields of the plateau above. + +Next day we reentered the game-haunted wilderness, nor did we see +any more native villages until many weeks later we came into the +country of the Wakamba. + + + +XIX. THE TANA RIVER + +Our first sight of the Tana River was from the top of a bluff. It +flowed below us a hundred feet, bending at a sharp elbow against +the cliff on which we stood. Out of the jungle it crept +sluggishly and into the jungle it crept again, brown, slow, +viscid, suggestive of the fevers and the lurking beasts by which, +indeed, it was haunted. From our elevation we could follow its +course by the jungle that grew along its banks. At first this was +intermittent, leaving thin or even open spaces at intervals, but +lower down it extended away unbroken and very tall. The trees +were many of them beginning to come into flower. + +Either side of the jungle were rolling hills. Those to the left made +up to the tremendous slopes of Kenia. Those to the right ended +finally in a low broken range many miles away called the Ithanga +Hills. The country gave one the impression of being clothed with +small trees; although here and there this growth gave space to +wide grassy plains. Later we discovered that the forest was more +apparent than real. The small trees, even where continuous, were +sparse enough to permit free walking in all directions, and open +enough to allow clear sight for a hundred yards or so. +Furthermore, the shallow wide valleys between the hills were +almost invariably treeless and grown to very high thick grass. + +Thus the course of the Tana possessed advantages to such as we. +By following in general the course of the stream we were always +certain of wood and water. The river itself was full of fish-not +to speak of hundreds of crocodiles and hippopotamuses. The thick +river jungle gave cover to such animals as the bushbuck, leopard, +the beautiful colobus, some of the tiny antelope, waterbuck, +buffalo and rhinoceros. Among the thorn and acacia trees of the +hillsides one was certain of impalla, eland, diks-diks, and +giraffes. In the grass bottoms were lions, rhinoceroses, a half +dozen varieties of buck, and thousands and thousands of game +birds such as guinea fowl and grouse. On the plains fed zebra, +hartebeeste, wart-hog, ostriches, and several species of the +smaller antelope. As a sportsman's paradise this region would be +hard to beat. + +We were now afoot. The dreaded tsetse fly abounded here, and we +had sent our horses in via Fort Hall. F. had accompanied them, +and hoped to rejoin us in a few days or weeks with tougher and +less valuable mules. Pending his return we moved on leisurely, +camping long at one spot, marching short days, searching the +country far and near for the special trophies of which we stood +in need. + +It was great fun. Generally we hunted each in his own direction +and according to his own ideas. The jungle along the river, while +not the most prolific in trophies, was by all odds the most +interesting. It was very dense, very hot, and very shady. Often a +thorn thicket would fling itself from the hills right across to +the water's edge, absolutely and hopelessly impenetrable save by +way of the rhinoceros tracks. Along these then we would slip, +bent double, very quietly and gingerly, keeping a sharp lookout +for the rightful owners of the trail. Again we would wander among +lofty trees through the tops of which the sun flickered on +festooned serpentlike vines. Every once in a while we managed a +glimpse of the sullen oily river through the dense leaf screen on +its banks. The water looked thick as syrup, of a deadly menacing +green. Sometimes we saw a loathsome crocodile lying with his nose +just out of water, or heard the snorting blow of a hippopotamus +coming up for air. Then the thicket forced us inland again. We +stepped very slowly, very alertly, our ears cocked for the +faintest sound, our eyes roving. Generally, of course, the +creatures of the jungle saw us first. We became aware of them by +a crash or a rustling or a scamper. Then we stood stock listening +with all our ears for some sound distinguishing to the species. Thus I +came to recognize the queer barking note of the bushbuck, for +example, and to realize how profane and vulgar that and the beautiful +creature, the impalla, can be when he forgets himself. As for the +rhinoceros, he does not care how much noise he makes, nor how +badly he scares you. + +Personally, I liked very well to circle out in the more open +country until about three o'clock, then to enter the river jungle +and work my way slowly back toward camp. At that time of day the +shadows were lengthening, the birds and animals were beginning to +stir about. In the cooling nether world of shadow we slipped +silently from thicket to thicket, from tree to tree; and the +jungle people fled from us, or withdrew, or gazed curiously, or +cursed us as their dispositions varied. + +While thus returning one evening I saw my first colobus. He was +swinging rapidly from one tree to another, his long black and +white fur shining against the sun. I wanted him very much, and +promptly let drive at him with the 405 Winchester. I always +carried this heavier weapon in the dense jungle. Of course I +missed him, but the roar of the shot so surprised him that he +came to a stand. Memba Sasa passed me the Springfield, and I +managed to get him in the head. At the shot another flashed into +view, high up in the top of a tree. Again I aimed and fired. The +beast let go and fell like a plummet. "Good shot," said I to +myself. Fifty feet down the colobus seized a limb and went +skipping away through the branches as lively as ever. In a moment +he stopped to look back, and by good luck I landed him through +the body. When we retrieved him we found that the first shot had +not hit him at all! + +At the time I thought he must have been frightened into falling; +but many subsequent experiences showed me that this sheer +let-go-all-holds drop is characteristic of the colobus and his +mode of progression. He rarely, as far as my observation goes, +leaps out and across as do the ordinary monkeys, but prefers to +progress by a series of slanting ascents followed by +breath-taking straight drops to lower levels. When closely +pressed from beneath, he will go as high as he can, and will then +conceal himself in the thick leaves. + +B. and I procured our desired number of colobus by taking +advantage of this habit-as soon as we had learned it. Shooting +the beasts with our rifles we soon found to be not only very +difficult, but also destructive of the skins. On the other hand, +a man could not, save by sheer good fortune, rely on stalking +near enough to use a shotgun. Therefore we evolved a method +productive of the maximum noise, row, barked shins, thorn wounds, +tumbles, bruises-and colobus! It was very simple. We took about +twenty boys into the jungle with us, and as soon as we caught +sight of a colobus we chased him madly. That was all there was to +it. + +And yet this method, simple apparently to the point of +imbecility, had considerable logic back of it after all; for +after a time somebody managed to get underneath that colobus when +he was at the top of a tree. Then the beast would hide. + +Consider then a tumbling riotous mob careering through the jungle +as fast as the jungle would let it, slipping, stumbling, falling +flat, getting tangled hopelessly, disentangling with profane +remarks, falling behind and catching up again, everybody yelling +and shrieking. Ahead of us we caught glimpses of the sleek +bounding black and white creature, running up the long slanting +limbs, and dropping like a plummet into the lower branches of the +next tree. We white men never could keep up with the best of our +men at this sort of work, although in the open country I could +hold them well enough. We could see them dashing through the +thick cover at a great rate of speed far ahead of us. After an +interval came a great shout in chorus. By this we knew that the +quarry had been definitely brought to a stand. Arriving at the +spot we craned our heads backward, and proceeded to get a crick +in the neck trying to make out invisible colobus in the very tops +of the trees above us. For gaudily marked beasts the colobus were +extraordinarily difficult to see. This was in no sense owing to +any far-fetched application of protective colouration; but to the +remarkable skill the animals possessed in concealing themselves +behind apparently the scantiest and most inadequate cover. +Fortunately for us our boys' ability to see them was equally +remarkable. Indeed, the most difficult part of their task was to +point the game out to us. We squinted, and changed position, and +tried hard to follow directions eagerly proffered by a dozen of +the men. Finally one of us would, by the aid of six +power-glasses, make out, or guess at a small tuft of white or +black hair showing beyond the concealment of a bunch of leaves. +We would unlimber the shotgun and send a charge of BB into that +bunch. Then down would plump the game, to the huge and vociferous +delight of all the boys. Or, as occasionally happened, the shot +was followed merely by a shower of leaves and a chorus of +expostulations indicating that we had mistaken the place, and had +fired into empty air. + +In this manner we gathered the twelve we required between us. At +noon we sat under the bank, with the tangled roots of trees above +us, and the smooth oily river slipping by. You may be sure we +always selected a spot protected by very shoal water, for the +crocodiles were numerous. I always shot these loathsome creatures +whenever I got a chance, whenever the sound of a shot would not +alarm more valuable game. Generally they were to be seen in +midstream, just the tip of their snouts above water, and +extraordinarily like anything but crocodiles. Often it took +several close scrutinies through the glass to determine the +brutes. This required rather nice shooting. More rarely we +managed to see them on the banks, or only half submerged. In this +position, too, they were all but undistinguishable as living +creatures. I think this is perhaps because of their complete +immobility. The creatures of the woods, standing quite still, are +difficult enough to see; but I have a notion that the eye, +unknown to itself, catches the sum total of little flexings of +the muscles, movements of the skin, winkings, even the play of +wind and light in the hair of the coat, all of which, while +impossible of analysis, together relieve the appearance of dead +inertia. The vitality of a creature like the crocodile, however, +seems to have withdrawn into the inner recesses of its being. It +lies like a log of wood, and for a log of wood it is mistaken. + +Nevertheless the crocodile has stored in it somewhere a fearful +vitality. The swiftness of its movements when seizing prey is +most astonishing; a swirl of water, the sweep of a powerful tail, +and the unfortunate victim has disappeared. For this reason it is +especially dangerous to approach the actual edge of any of the +great rivers, unless the water is so shallow that the crocodile +could not possibly approach under cover, as is its cheerful +habit. We had considerable difficulty in impressing this +elementary truth on our hill-bred totos until one day, hearing +wild shrieks from the direction of the river, I rushed down to +find the lot huddled together in the very middle of a sand spit +that-reached well out into the stream. Inquiry developed that +while paddling in the shallows they had been surprised by the +sudden appearance of an ugly snout and well drenched by the sweep +of an eager tail. The stroke fortunately missed. We stilled the +tumult, sat down quietly to wait, and at the end of ten minutes +had the satisfaction of abating that croc. + +Generally we killed the brutes where we found them and allowed +them to drift away with the current. Occasionally however we +wanted a piece of hide, and then tried to retrieve them. One such +occasion showed very vividly the tenacity of life and the +primitive nervous systems of these great saurians. + +I discovered the beast, head out of water, in a reasonable sized +pool below which were shallow rapids. My Springfield bullet hit +him fair, whereupon he stood square on his head and waved his tail +in the air, rolled over three or four times, thrashed the water, +and disappeared. After waiting a while we moved on downstream. +Returning four hours later I sneaked up quietly. There the +crocodile lay sunning himself on the sand bank. I supposed he +must be dead; but when I accidentally broke a twig, he +immediately commenced to slide off into the water. Thereupon I +stopped him with a bullet in the spine. The first shot had +smashed a hole in his head, just behind the eye, about the size +of an ordinary coffee cup. In spite of this wound, which would +have been instantly fatal to any warm-blooded animal, the +creature was so little affected that it actually reacted to a +slight noise made at some distance from where it lay. Of course +the wound would probably have been fatal in the long run. + +The best spot to shoot at, indeed, is not the head but the spine +immediately back of the head. + +These brutes are exceedingly powerful. They are capable of taking +down horses and cattle, with no particular effort. This I know +from my own observation. Mr. Fleischman, however, was privileged +to see the wonderful sight of the capture and destruction of a +full-grown rhinoceros by a crocodile. The photographs he took of +this most extraordinary affair leave no room for doubt. Crossing +a stream was always a matter of concern to us. The boys beat the +surface of the water vigorously with their safari sticks. On +occasion we have even let loose a few heavy bullets to stir up +the pool before venturing in. + +A steep climb through thorn and brush would always extricate us +from the river jungle when we became tired of it. Then we found +ourselves in a continuous but scattered growth of small trees. +Between the trunks of these we could see for a hundred yards or +so before their numbers closed in the view. Here was the +favourite haunt of numerous beautiful impalla. We caught glimpses +of them, flashing through the trees; or occasionally standing, +gazing in our direction, their slender necks stretched high, +their ears pointed for us. These curious ones were generally the +does. The bucks were either more cautious or less inquisitive. A +herd or so of eland also liked this covered country; and there were +always a few waterbuck and rhinoceroses about. Often too we here +encountered stragglers from the open plains-zebra or +hartebeeste, very alert and suspicious in unaccustomed +surroundings. + +A great deal of the plains country had been burned over; and a +considerable area was still afire. The low bright flames licked +their way slowly through the grass in a narrow irregular band +extending sometimes for miles. Behind it was blackened soil, and +above it rolled dense clouds of smoke. Always accompanied it +thousands of birds wheeling and dashing frantically in and out of +the murk, often fairly at the flames themselves. The published +writings of a certain worthy and sentimental person waste much +sympathy over these poor birds dashing frenziedly about above +their destroyed nests. As a matter of fact they are taking greedy +advantage of a most excellent opportunity to get insects cheap. +Thousands of the common red-billed European storks patrolled the +grass just in front of the advancing flames, or wheeled barely +above the fire. Grasshoppers were their main object, although +apparently they never objected to any small mammals or reptiles +that came their way. Far overhead wheeled a few thousand more +assorted soarers who either had no appetite or had satisfied it. + +The utter indifference of the animals to the advance of a big +conflagration always impressed me. One naturally pictures the +beasts as fleeing wildly, nostrils distended, before the +devouring element. On the contrary I have seen kongoni grazing +quite peacefully with flames on three sides of them. The fire +seems to travel rather slowly in the tough grass; although at +times and for a short distance it will leap to a wild and roaring +life. Beasts will then lope rapidly away to right or left, but +without excitement. + +On these open plains we were more or less pestered with ticks of +various sizes. These clung to the grass blades; but with no +invincible preference for that habitat; trousers did them just as +well. Then they ascended looking for openings. They ranged in +size from little red ones as small as the period of a printed +page to big patterned fellows the size of a pea. The little ones +were much the most abundant. At times I have had the front of my +breeches so covered with them that their numbers actually +imparted a reddish tinge to the surface of the cloth. This sounds +like exaggeration, but it is a measured statement. The process of +de-ticking (new and valuable word) can then be done only by +scraping with the back of a hunting knife. + +Some people, of tender skin, are driven nearly frantic by these +pests. Others, of whom I am thankful to say I am one, get off +comparatively easy. In a particularly bad tick country, one +generally appoints one of the youngsters as "tick toto." It is +then his job in life to de-tick any person or domestic animal +requiring his services. His is a busy existence. But though at +first the nuisance is excessive, one becomes accustomed to it in +a remarkably short space of time. The adaptability of the human +being is nowhere better exemplified. After a time one gets so +that at night he can remove a marauding tick and cast it forth +into the darkness without even waking up. Fortunately ticks are +local in distribution. Often one may travel weeks or months +without this infliction. + +I was always interested and impressed to observe how indifferent +the wild animals seem to be to these insects. Zebra, rhinoceros +and giraffe seem to be especially good hosts. The loathsome +creatures fasten themselves in clusters wherever they can grip +their fangs. Thus in a tick country a zebra's ears, the lids and +corners of his eyes, his nostrils and lips, the soft skin between +his legs and body, and between his hind legs, and under his tail +are always crusted with ticks as thick as they can cling. One +would think the drain on vitality would be enormous, but the +animals are always plump and in condition. The same state of +affairs obtains with the other two beasts named. The hartebeeste +also carries ticks but not nearly in the same abundance; while +such creatures as the waterbuck, impalla, gazelles and the +smaller bucks seem either to be absolutely free from the pests, +or to have a very few. Whether this is because such animals take +the trouble to rid themselves, or because they are more immune +from attack it would be difficult to say. I have found ticks +clinging to the hair of lions, but never fastened to the flesh. +It is probable that they had been brushed off from the grass in +passing. Perhaps ticks do not like lions, waterbuck, Tommies, et +al., or perhaps only big coarse-grained common brutes like zebra +and rhinos will stand them at all. + + + +XX. DIVERS ADVENTURES ALONG THE TANA + +Late one afternoon I shot a wart-hog in the tall grass. The beast +was an unusually fine specimen, so I instructed Fundi and the +porters to take the head, and myself started for camp with Memba +Sasa. I had gone not over a hundred yards when I was recalled by +wild and agonized appeals of "Bwana! bwana!" The long-legged +Fundi was repeatedly leaping straight up in the air to an +astonishing height above the long grass, curling his legs up +under him at each jump, and yelling like a steam-engine. +Returning promptly, I found that the wart-hog had come to life at +the first prick of the knife. He was engaged in charging back and +forth in an earnest effort to tusk Fundi, and the latter was +jumping high in an equally earnest effort to keep out of the way. +Fortunately he proved agile enough to do so until I planted +another bullet in the aggressor. + +These wart-hogs are most comical brutes from whatever angle one +views them. They have a patriarchal, self-satisfied, suburban +manner of complete importance. The old gentleman bosses his harem +outrageously, and each and every member of the tribe walks about +with short steps and a stuffy parvenu small-town +self-sufficiency. One is quite certain that it is only by +accident that they have long tusks and live in Africa, instead of +rubber-plants and self-made business and a pug-dog within +commuters' distance of New York. But at the slightest alarm this +swollen and puffy importance breaks down completely. Away they +scurry, their tails held stiffly and straightly perpendicular, +their short legs scrabbling the small stones in a frantic effort +to go faster than nature had intended them to go. Nor do they +cease their flight at a reasonable distance, but keep on going +over hill and dale, until they fairly vanish in the blue. I used +to like starting them off this way, just for the sake of +contrast, and also for the sake of the delicious but impossible +vision of seeing their human prototypes do likewise. + +When a wart-hog is at home, he lives down a hole. Of course it +has to be a particularly large hole. He turns around and backs +down it. No more peculiar sight can be imagined than the +sardonically toothsome countenance of a wart-hog fading slowly in +the dimness of a deep burrow, a good deal like Alice's Cheshire +Cat. Firing a revolver, preferably with smoky black powder, just +in front of the hole annoys the wart-hog exceedingly. Out he +comes full tilt, bent on damaging some one, and it takes quick +shooting to prevent his doing so. + +Once, many hundreds of miles south of the Tana, and many months +later, we were riding quite peaceably through the country, when +we were startled by the sound of a deep and continuous roaring in +a small brush patch to our left. We advanced cautiously to a +prospective lion, only to discover that the roaring proceeded +from the depths of a wart-hog burrow. The reverberation of our +footsteps on the hollow ground had alarmed him. He was a very +nervous wart-hog. + +On another occasion, when returning to camp from a solitary walk, +I saw two wart-hogs before they saw me. I made no attempt to +conceal myself, but stood absolutely motionless. They fed slowly +nearer and nearer until at last they were not over twenty yards +away. When finally they made me out, their indignation and +amazement and utter incredulity were very funny. In fact, they +did not believe in me at all for some few snorty moments. Finally +they departed, their absurd tails stiff upright. + + +One afternoon F. and I, hunting along one of the wide grass +bottom lands, caught sight of a herd of an especially fine +impalla. The animals were feeding about fifty yards the other +side of a small solitary bush, and the bush grew on the sloping +bank of the slight depression that represented the dry stream +bottom. We could duck down into the depression, sneak along it, +come up back of the little bush, and shoot from very close range. +Leaving the gunbearers, we proceeded to do this. + +So quietly did we move that when we rose up back of the little +bush a lioness lying under it with her cub was as surprised as we +were! + +Indeed, I do not think she knew what we were, for instead of +attacking, she leaped out the other side the bush, uttering a +startled snarl. At once she whirled to come at us, but the brief +respite had allowed us to recover our own scattered wits. As she +turned I caught her broadside through the heart. Although this +shot knocked her down, F. immediately followed it with another +for safety's sake. We found that actually we had just missed +stepping on her tail! + +The cub we caught a glimpse of. He was about the size of a setter +dog. We tried hard to find him, but failed. The lioness was an +unusually large one, probably about as big as the female ever +grows, measuring nine feet six inches in length, and three feet +eight inches tail at the shoulder. + +Billy had her funny times housekeeping. The kitchen department +never quite ceased marvelling at her. Whenever she went to the +cook-camp to deliver her orders she was surrounded by an +attentive and respectful audience. One day, after holding forth +for some time in Swahili, she found that she had been standing +hobnailed on one of the boy's feet. + +"Why, Mahomet!" she cried. "That must hurt you! Why didn't you +tell me?" + +"Memsahib," he smiled politely, "I think perhaps you move some +time!" + +On another occasion she was trying to tell the cook, through +Mahomet as interpreter, that she wanted a tough old buffalo steak +pounded, boarding-house style. This evidently puzzled all hands. +They turned to in an earnest discussion of what it was all about, +anyway. Billy understood Swahili well enough at that time to +gather that they could not understand the Memsahib's wanting the +meat "kibokoed"-FLOGGED. Was it a religious rite, or a piece of +revenge? They gave it up. + +"All right," said Mahomet patiently at last. "He say he do it. +WHICH ONE IS IT?" + +Part of our supplies comprised tins of dehydrated fruit. One +evening Billy decided to have a grand celebration, so she passed +out a tin marked "rhubarb" and some cornstarch, together with +suitable instructions for a fruit pudding. In a little while the +cook returned. + +"Nataka m'tund-I want fruit," said he. + +Billy pointed out, severely, that he already had fruit. He went +away shaking his head. Evening and the pudding came. It looked +good, and we congratulated Billy on her culinary enterprise. +Being hungry, we took big mouthfuls. There followed splutterings +and investigations. The rhubarb can proved to be an old one +containing heavy gun grease! + +When finally we parted with our faithful cook we bought him a +really wonderful many bladed knife as a present. On seeing it he +slumped to the ground-six feet of lofty dignity-and began to +weep violently, rocking back and forth in an excess of grief. + +"Why, what is it?" we inquired, alarmed. + +"Oh, Memsahib!" he wailed, the tears coursing down his cheeks, "I +wanted a watch!" + + +One morning about nine o'clock we were riding along at the edge of +a grass-grown savannah, with a low hill to our right and another +about four hundred yards ahead. Suddenly two rhinoceroses came to +their feet some fifty yards to our left out in the high grass, +and stood looking uncertainly in our direction. + +"Look out! Rhinos!" I warned instantly. + +"Why-why!" gasped Billy in an astonished tone of voice, "they +have manes!" + +In some concern for her sanity I glanced in her direction. She +was staring, not to her left, but straight ahead. I followed the +direction of her gaze, to see three lions moving across the face +of the hill. + +Instantly we dropped off our horses. We wanted a shot at those +lions very much indeed, but were hampered in our efforts by the +two rhinoceroses, now stamping, snorting, and moving slowly in +our direction. The language we muttered was racy, but we dropped +to a kneeling position and opened fire on the disappearing lions. +It was most distinctly a case of divided attention, one eye on +those menacing rhinos, and one trying to attend to the always +delicate operation of aligning sights and signalling from a +rather distracted brain just when to pull the trigger. Our +faithful gunbearers crouched by us, the heavy guns ready. + +One rhino seemed either peaceable or stupid. He showed no +inclination either to attack or to depart, but was willing to +back whatever play his friend might decide on. The friend charged +toward us until we began to think he meant battle, stopped, +thought a moment, and then, followed by his companion, trotted +slowly across our bows about eighty yards away, while we +continued our long range practice at the lions over their backs. + +In this we were not winning many cigars. F. had a 280-calibre +rifle shooting the Ross cartridge through the much advertised +grooveless oval bore. It was little accurate beyond a hundred +yards. Memba Sasa had thrust the 405 into my hand, knowing it for +the "lion gun," and kept just out of reach with the long-range +Springfield. I had no time to argue the matter with him. The 405 +has a trajectory like a rainbow at that distance, and I was +guessing at it, and not making very good guesses either. B. had +his Springfield and made closer practice, finally hitting a leg +of one of the beasts. We saw him lift his paw and shake it, but +he did not move lamely afterward, so the damage was probably +confined to a simple scrape. It was a good shot anyway. Then they +disappeared over the top of the hill. + +We walked forward, regretting rhinos. Thirty yards ahead of me +came a thunderous and roaring growl, and a magnificent old lion +reared his head from a low bush. He evidently intended mischief, +for I could see his tail switching. However, B. had killed only +one lion and I wanted very much to give him the shot. Therefore, +I held the front sight on the middle of his chest, and uttered a +fervent wish to myself that B. would hurry up. In about ten +seconds the muzzle of his rifle poked over my shoulder, so I +resigned the job. + +At B.'s shot the lion fell over, but was immediately up and +trying to get at us. Then we saw that his hind quarters were +paralyzed. He was a most magnificent sight as he reared his fine +old head, roaring at us full mouthed so that the very air +trembled. Billy had a good look at a lion in action. B. took up a +commanding position on an ant hill to one side with his rifle +levelled. F. and I advanced slowly side by side. At twelve feet +from the wounded beast stopped, F. unlimbered the kodak, while I +held the bead of the 405 between the lion's eyes, ready to press +trigger at the first forward movement, however slight. Thus we +took several exposures in the two cameras. Unfortunately one of +the cameras fell in the river the next day. The other contained +but one exposure. While not so spectacular as some of those +spoiled, it shows very well the erect mane, he wicked narrowing +of the eyes, the flattening of the ears of an angry lion. You +must imagine, furthermore, the deep rumbling diapason of his +growling. + +We backed away, and B. put in the finishing shot. The first +bullet, we then found, had penetrated the kidneys, thus +inflicting a temporary paralysis. + +When we came to skin him we found an old-fashioned lead bullet +between the bones of his right forepaw. The entrance wound had so +entirely healed over that hardly the trace of a scar remained. +>From what I know of the character of these beasts, I have no +doubt that this ancient injury furnished the reason for his +staying to attack us instead of departing with the other three +lions over the hill. + + +Following the course of the river, we one afternoon came around a +bend on a huge herd of mixed game that had been down to water. +The river, a quite impassable barrier lay to our right, and an +equally impassable precipitous ravine barred their flight ahead. +They were forced to cross our front, quite close, within the +hundred yards. We stopped to watch them go, a seemingly endless +file of them, some very much frightened, bounding spasmodically +as though stung; others more philosophical, loping easily and +unconcernedly; still others to a few-even stopping for a moment to +get a good view of us. The very young creatures, as always, +bounced along absolutely stiff-legged, exactly like wooden +animals suspended by an elastic, touching the ground and +rebounding high, without a bend of the knee nor an apparent +effort of the muscles. Young animals seem to have to learn how to +bend their legs for the most efficient travel. The same is true +of human babies as well. In this herd were, we estimated, some +four or five hundred beasts. + + +While hunting near the foothills I came across the body of a +large eagle suspended by one leg from the crotch of a limb. The +bird's talon had missed its grip, probably on alighting, the +tarsus had slipped through the crotch beyond the joint, the eagle +had fallen forward, and had never been able to flop itself back +to an upright position! + + + +XXI. THE RHINOCEROS + +The rhinoceros is, with the giraffe, the hippopotamus, the +gerenuk, and the camel, one of Africa's unbelievable animals. +Nobody has bettered Kipling's description of him in the Just-so +Stories: "A horn on his nose, piggy eyes, and few manners." He +lives a self-centred life, wrapped up in the porcine contentment +that broods within nor looks abroad over the land. When anything +external to himself and his food and drink penetrates to his +intelligence he makes a flurried fool of himself, rushing madly +and frantically here and there in a hysterical effort either to +destroy or get away from the cause of disturbance. He is the +incarnation of a living and perpetual Grouch. + +Generally he lives by himself, sometimes with his spouse, more +rarely still with a third that is probably a grown-up son or +daughter. I personally have never seen more than three in +company. Some observers have reported larger bands, or rather +collections, but, lacking other evidence, I should be inclined to +suspect that some circumstances of food or water rather than a +sense of gregariousness had attracted a number of individuals to +one locality. + +The rhinoceros has three objects in life: to fill his stomach +with food and water, to stand absolutely motionless under a bush, +and to imitate ant hills when he lies down in the tall grass. +When disturbed at any of these occupations he snorts. The snort +sounds exactly as though the safety valve of a locomotive had +suddenly opened and as suddenly shut again after two seconds of +escaping steam. Then he puts his head down and rushes madly in +some direction, generally upwind. As he weighs about two tons, +and can, in spite of his appearance, get over the ground nearly +as fast as an ordinary horse, he is a truly imposing sight, +especially since the innocent bystander generally happens to be +upwind, and hence in the general path of progress. This is +because the rhino's scent is his keenest sense, and through it he +becomes aware, in the majority of times, of man's presence. His +sight is very poor indeed; he cannot see clearly even a moving +object much beyond fifty yards. He can, however, hear pretty +well. + +The novice, then, is subjected to what he calls a "vicious +charge" on the part of the rhinoceros, merely because his scent +was borne to the beast from upwind, and the rhino naturally runs +away upwind. He opens fire, and has another thrilling adventure +to relate. As a matter of fact, if he had approached from the +other side, and then aroused the animal with a clod of earth, the +beast would probably have "charged" away in identically the same +direction. I am convinced from a fairly varied experience that +this is the basis for most of the thrilling experiences with +rhinoceroses. + +But whatever the beast's first mental attitude, the danger is +quite real. In the beginning he rushes, upwind in instinctive +reaction against the strange scent. If he catches sight of the +man at all, it must be after he has approached to pretty close +range, for only at close range are the rhino's eyes effective. +Then he is quite likely to finish what was at first a blind dash +by a genuine charge. Whether this is from malice or from the +panicky feeling that he is now too close to attempt to get away, +I never was able determine. It is probably in the majority of +cases the latter. This seems indicated by the fact that the +rhino, if avoided in his first rush, will generally charge right +through and keep on going. Occasionally, however, he will whirl +and come back to the attack. There can then be no doubt that he +actually intends mischief. + +Nor must it be forgotten that with these animals, AS WITH ALL +OTHERS, not enough account is taken of individual variation. +They, as well as man, and as well as other animals, have their +cowards, their fighters, their slothful and their enterprising. +And, too, there seem to be truculent and peaceful districts. +North of Mt. Kenia, between that peak and the Northern Guaso +Nyero River, we saw many rhinos, none of which showed the +slightest disposition to turn ugly. In fact, they were so +peaceful that they scrabbled off as fast as they could go every +time they either scented, heard, or SAW us; and in their flight +they held their noses up, not down. In the wide angle between the +Tana and Thika rivers, and comprising the Yatta Plains, and in +the thickets of the Tsavo, the rhinoceroses generally ran nose +down in a position of attack and were much inclined to let their +angry passions master them at the sight of man. Thus we never had +our safari scattered by rhinoceroses in the former district, +while in the latter the boys were up trees six times in the +course of one morning! Carl Akeley, with a moving picture +machine, could not tease a charge out of a rhino in a dozen +tries, while Dugmore, in a different part of the country, was so +chivied about that he finally left the district to avoid killing +any more of the brutes in self-defence! + +The fact of the matter is that the rhinoceros is neither animated +by the implacable man-destroying passion ascribed to him by the +amateur hunter, nor is he so purposeless and haphazard in his +rushes as some would have us believe. On being disturbed his +instinct is to get away. He generally tries to get away in the +direction of the disturbance, or upwind, as the case may be. If +he catches sight of the cause of disturbance he is apt to try to +trample and gore it, whatever it is. As his sight is short, he +will sometimes so inflict punishment on unoffending bushes. In +doing this he is probably not animated by a consuming destructive +blind rage, but by a naturally pugnacious desire to eliminate +sources of annoyance. Missing a definite object, he thunders +right through and disappears without trying again to discover +what has aroused him. + +This first rush is not a charge in the sense that it is an attack +on a definite object. It may not, and probably will not, amount +to a charge at all, for the beast will blunder through without +ever defining more clearly the object of his blind dash. That +dash is likely, however, at any moment, to turn into a definite +charge should the rhinoceros happen to catch sight of his +disturber. Whether the impelling motive would then be a mistaken +notion that on the part of the beast he was so close he had to +fight, or just plain malice, would not matter. At such times the +intended victim is not interested in the rhino's mental +processes. + +Owing to his size, his powerful armament, and his incredible +quickness the rhinoceros is a dangerous animal at all times, to +be treated with respect and due caution. This is proved by the +number of white men, out of a sparse population, that are +annually tossed and killed by the brutes, and by the promptness +with which the natives take to trees-thorn trees at that!-when +the cry of faru! is raised. As he comes rushing in your +direction, head down and long weapon pointed, tail rigidly erect, +ears up, the earth trembling with his tread and the air with his +snorts, you suddenly feel very small and ineffective. + +If you keep cool, however, it is probable that the encounter will +result only in a lot of mental perturbation for the rhino and a +bit of excitement for yourself. If there is any cover you should +duck down behind it and move rapidly but quietly to one side or +another of the line of advance. If there is no cover, you should +crouch low and hold still. The chances are he will pass to one +side or the other of you, and go snorting away into the distance. +Keep your eye on him very closely. If he swerves definitely in +your direction, AND DROPS HIS HEAD A LITTLE LOWER, it would be +just as well to open fire. Provided the beast was still far +enough away to give me "sea-room," I used to put a small bullet +in the flesh of the outer part of the shoulder. The wound thus +inflicted was not at all serious, but the shock of the bullet +usually turned the beast. This was generally in the direction of +the wounded shoulder, which would indicate that the brute turned +toward the apparent source of the attack, probably for the +purpose of getting even. At any rate, the shot turned the rush to +one side, and the rhinoceros, as usual, went right on through. +If, however, he seemed to mean business, or was too close for +comfort, the point to aim for was the neck just above the lowered +horn. + +In my own experience I came to establish a "dead line" about +twenty yards from myself. That seemed to be as near as I cared to +let the brutes come. Up to that point I let them alone on the +chance that they might swerve or change their minds, as they +often did. But inside of twenty yards, whether the rhinoceros +meant to charge me, or was merely running blindly by, did not +particularly matter. Even in the latter case he might happen to +catch sight of me and change his mind. Thus, looking over my +notebook records, I find that I was "charged" forty odd +times-that is to say, the rhinoceros rushed in my general +direction. Of this lot I can be sure of but three, and possibly +four, that certainly meant mischief. Six more came so directly at +us, and continued so to come, that in spite of ourselves we were +compelled to kill them. The rest were successfully dodged. + +As I have heard old hunters of many times my experience, affirm +that only in a few instances have they themselves been charged +indubitably and with malice aforethought, it might be well to +detail my reasons for believing myself definitely and not blindly +attacked. + +The first instance was that when B. killed his second trophy +rhinoceros. The beast's companion refused to leave the dead body +for a long time, but finally withdrew. On our approaching, +however, and after we had been some moments occupied with the +trophy, it returned and charged viciously. It was finally killed +at fifteen yards. + +The second instance was of a rhinoceros that got up from the +grass sixty yards away, and came headlong in my direction. At the +moment I was standing on the edge of a narrow eroded ravine, ten +feet deep, with perpendicular sides. The rhinoceros came on +bravely to the edge of this ravine-and stopped. Then he gave an +exhibition of unmitigated bad temper most amusing to +contemplate-from my safe position. He snorted, and stamped, and +pawed the earth, and tramped up and down at a great rate. I sat on +the opposite bank and laughed at him. This did not please him a +bit, but after many short rushes to the edge of the ravine, he +gave it up and departed slowly, his tail very erect and rigid. +>From the persistency with which he tried to get at me, I cannot +but think he intended something of the sort from the first. + +The third instance was much more aggravating. In company with +Memba Sasa and Fundi I left camp early one morning to get a +waterbuck. Four or five hundred yards out, however, we came on +fresh buffalo signs, not an hour old. To one who knew anything of +buffaloes' habits this seemed like an excellent chance, for at +this time of the morning they should be feeding not far away +preparatory to seeking cover for the day. Therefore we +immediately took up the trail. + +It led us over hills, through valleys, high grass, burned +country, brush, thin scrub, and small woodland alternately. +Unfortunately we had happened on these buffalo just as they were +about changing district, and they were therefore travelling +steadily. At times the trail was easy to follow and at other +times we had to cast about very diligently to find traces of the +direction even such huge animals had taken. It was interesting +work, however, and we drew on steadily, keeping a sharp lookout +ahead in case the buffalo had come to a halt in some shady +thicket out of the sun. As the latter ascended the heavens and +the scorching heat increased, our confidence in nearing our +quarry ascended likewise, for we knew that buffaloes do not like +great heat. Nevertheless this band continued straight on its way. +I think now they must have got scent of our camp, and had +therefore decided to move to one of the alternate and widely +separated feeding grounds every herd keeps in its habitat. Only +at noon, and after six hours of steady trailing, covering perhaps +a dozen miles, did we catch them up. + +>From the start we had been bothered with rhinoceroses. Five times +did we encounter them, standing almost squarely on the line of +the spoor we were following. Then we had to make a wide quiet +circle to leeward in order to avoid disturbing them, and were +forced to a very minute search in order to pick up the buffalo +tracks again on the other side. This was at once an anxiety and a +delay, and we did not love those rhino. + +Finally, at the very edge of the Yatta Plains we overtook the +herd, resting for noon in a scattered thicket. Leaving Fundi, I, +with Memba Sasa, stalked down to them. We crawled and crept by +inches flat to the ground, which was so hot that it fairly burned +the hand. The sun beat down on us fiercely, and the air was close +and heavy even among the scanty grass tufts in which we were +trying to get cover. It was very hard work indeed, but after a +half hour of it we gained a thin bush not over thirty yards from +a half dozen dark and indeterminate bodies dozing in the very +centre of a brush patch. Cautiously I wiped the sweat from my +eyes and raised my glasses. It was slow work and patient work, +picking out and examining each individual beast from the mass. +Finally the job was done. I let fall my glasses. + +"Monumookee y'otey-all cows," I whispered to Memba Sasa. + +We backed out of there inch by inch, with intention of circling a +short distance to the leeward, and then trying the herd again +lower down. But some awkward slight movement, probably on my +part, caught the eye of one of those blessed cows. She threw up +her head; instantly the whole thicket seemed alive with beasts. +We could hear them crashing and stamping, breaking the brush, +rushing headlong and stopping again; we could even catch +momentary glimpses of dark bodies. After a few minutes we saw the +mass of the herd emerge from the thicket five hundred yards away +and flow up over the hill. There were probably a hundred and +fifty of them, and, looking through my glasses, I saw among them +two fine old bulls. They were of course not much alarmed, as only +the one cow knew what it was all about anyway, and I suspected +they would stop at the next thicket. + +We had only one small canteen of water with us, but we divided +that. It probably did us good, but the quantity was not +sufficient to touch our thirst. For the remainder of the day we +suffered rather severely, as the sun was fierce. + +After a short interval we followed on after the buffaloes. Within +a half mile beyond the crest of the hill over which they had +disappeared was another thicket. At the very edge of the thicket, +asleep under an outlying bush, stood one of the big bulls! + +Luck seemed with us at last. The wind was right, and between us +and the bull lay only four hundred yards of knee-high grass. All +we had to do was to get down on our hands and knees, and, without +further precautions, crawl up within range and pot him. That +meant only a bit of hard, hot work. + +When we were about halfway a rhinoceros suddenly arose from the +grass between us and the buffalo, and about one hundred yards +away. + +What had aroused him, at that distance and upwind, I do not know. +It hardly seemed possible that he could have heard us, for we +were moving very quietly, and, as I say, we were downwind. +However, there he was on his feet, sniffing now this way, now +that, in search for what had alarmed him. We sank out of sight +and lay low, fully expecting that the brute would make off. + +For just twenty-five minutes by the watch that rhinoceros looked +and looked deliberately in all directions while we lay hidden +waiting for him to get over it. Sometimes he would start off +quite confidently for fifty or sixty yards, so that we thought at +last we were rid of him, but always he returned to the exact spot +where we had first seen him, there to stamp, and blow. The +buffalo paid no attention to these manifestations. I suppose +everybody in jungleland is accustomed to rhinoceros bad temper +over nothing. Twice he came in our direction, but both times gave +it up after advancing twenty-five yards or so. We lay flat on our +faces, the vertical sun slowly roasting us, and cursed that +rhino. + +Now the significance of this incident is twofold: first, the fact +that, instead of rushing off at the first intimation of our +presence, as would the average rhino, he went methodically to +work to find us; second, that he displayed such remarkable +perseverance as to keep at it nearly a half hour. This was a +spirit quite at variance with that finding its expression in the +blind rush or in the sudden passionate attack. From that point of +view it seems to me that the interest and significance of the +incident can hardly be overstated. + +Four or five times we thought ourselves freed of the nuisance, +but always, just as we were about to move on, back he came, as +eager as ever to nose us out. Finally he gave it up, and, at a +slow trot, started to go away from there. And out of the three +hundred and sixty degrees of the circle where he might have gone +he selected just our direction. Note that this was downwind for +him, and that rhinoceroses usually escape upwind. + +We laid very low, hoping that, as before, he would change his +mind as to direction. But now he was no longer looking, but +travelling. Nearer and nearer he came. We could see plainly his +little eyes, and hear the regular swish, swish, swish of his +thick legs brushing through the grass. The regularity of his trot +never varied, but to me lying there directly in his path, he +seemed to be coming on altogether too fast for comfort. From our +low level he looked as big as a barn. Memba Sasa touched me +lightly on the leg. I hated to shoot, but finally when he loomed +fairly over us I saw it must be now or never. If I allowed him to +come closer, he must indubitably catch the first movement of my +gun and so charge right on us before I would have time to deliver +even an ineffective shot. Therefore, most reluctantly, I placed +the ivory bead of the great Holland gun just to the point of his +shoulder and pulled the trigger. So close was he that as he +toppled forward I instinctively, though unnecessarily of course, +shrank back as though he might fall on me. Fortunately I had +picked my spot properly, and no second shot was necessary. He +fell just twenty-seven feet-nine yards -from where we lay! + +The buffalo vanished into the blue. We were left with a dead +rhino, which we did not want, twelve miles from camp, and no +water. It was a hard hike back, but we made it finally, though +nearly perished from thirst. + +This beast, be it noted, did not charge us at all, but I consider +him as one of the three undoubtedly animated by hostile +intentions. Of the others I can, at this moment, remember five +that might or might not have been actually and maliciously +charging when they were killed or dodged. I am no mind reader for +rhinoceros. Also I am willing to believe in their entirely +altruistic intentions. Only, if they want to get the practical +results of their said altruistic intentions they must really +refrain from coming straight at me nearer than twenty yards. It +has been stated that if one stands perfectly still until the +rhinoceros is just six feet away, and then jumps sideways, the +beast will pass him. I never happened to meet anybody who had +acted on this theory. I suppose that such exist: though I doubt +if any persistent exponent of the art is likely to exist long. +Personally I like my own method, and stoutly maintain that +within twenty yards it is up to the rhinoceros to begin to do the +dodging. + + + +XXII. THE RHINOCEROS-(continued) + +At first the traveller is pleased and curious over rhinoceros. +After he has seen and encountered eight or ten, he begins to look +upon them as an unmitigated nuisance. By the time he has done a +week in thick rhino-infested scrub he gets fairly to hating them. + +They are bad enough in the open plains, where they can be seen and +avoided, but in the tall grass or the scrub they are a continuous +anxiety. No cover seems small enough to reveal them. Often they +will stand or lie absolutely immobile until you are within a very +short distance, and then will outrageously break out. They are, +in spite of their clumsy build, as quick and active as polo +ponies, and are the only beasts I know of capable of leaping into +full speed ahead from a recumbent position. In thorn scrub they +are the worst, for there, no matter how alert the traveller may +hold himself, he is likely to come around a bush smack on one. +And a dozen times a day the throat-stopping, abrupt crash and +smash to right or left brings him up all standing, his heart +racing, the blood pounding through his veins. It is jumpy work, +and is very hard on the temper. In the natural reaction from +being startled into fits one snaps back to profanity. The +cumulative effects of the epithets hurled after a departing and +inconsiderately hasty rhinoceros may have done something toward +ruining the temper of the species. It does not matter whether or +not the individual beast proves dangerous; he is inevitably most +startling. I have come in at night with my eyes fairly aching +from spying for rhinos during a day's journey through high grass. + +And, as a friend remarked, rhinos are such a mussy death. One +poor chap, killed while we were away on our first trip, could not +be moved from the spot where he had been trampled. A few +shovelfuls of earth over the remains was all the rhinoceros had +left possible. + +Fortunately, in the thick stuff especially, it is often possible +to avoid the chance rhinoceros through the warning given by the +rhinoceros birds. These are birds about the size of a robin that +accompany the beast everywhere. They sit in a row along his back +occupying themselves with ticks and a good place to roost. Always +they are peaceful and quiet until a human being approaches. Then +they flutter a few feet into the air uttering a peculiar rapid +chattering. Writers with more sentiment than sense of proportion +assure us that this warns the rhinoceros of approaching danger! +On the contrary, I always looked at it the other way. The +rhinoceros birds thereby warned ME of danger, and I was duly +thankful. + +The safari boys stand quite justly in a holy awe of the rhino. +The safari is strung out over a mile or two of country, as a +usual thing, and a downwind rhino is sure to pierce some part of +the line in his rush. Then down go the loads with a smash, and up +the nearest trees swarm the boys. Usually their refuges are thorn +trees, armed, even on the main trunk, with long sharp spikes. +There is no difficulty in going up, but the gingerly coming down, +after all the excitement has died, is a matter of deliberation +and of voices uplifted in woe. Cuninghame tells of an inadequate +slender and springy, but solitary, sapling into which swarmed +half his safari on the advent of a rambunctious rhino. The tree +swayed and bent and cracked alarmingly, threatening to dump the +whole lot on the ground. At each crack the boys yelled. This +attracted the rhinoceros, which immediately charged the tree full +tilt. He hit square, the tree shivered and creaked, the boys +wound their arms and legs around the slender support and howled +frantically. Again and again rhinoceros drew back to repeat his +butting of that tree. By the time Cuninghame reached the spot, +the tree, with its despairing burden of black birds, was clinging +to the soil by its last remaining roots. + +In the Nairobi Club I met a gentleman with one arm gone at the +shoulder. He told his story in a slightly bored and drawling +voice, picking his words very carefully, and evidently most +occupied with neither understating nor overstating the case. It +seems he had been out, and had killed some sort of a buck. While +his men were occupied with this, he strolled on alone to see what +he could find. He found a rhinoceros, that charged viciously, and +into which he emptied his gun. + +"When I came to," he said, "it was just coming on dusk, and the +lions were beginning to grunt. My arm was completely crushed, and +I was badly bruised and knocked about. As near as I could +remember I was fully ten miles from camp. A circle of carrion +birds stood all about me not more than ten feet away, and a great +many others were flapping over me and fighting in the air. These +last were so close that I could feel the wind from their wings. +It was rawther gruesome." He paused and thought a a moment, as +though weighing his words. "In fact," he added with an air of +final conviction, "it was QUITE gruesome!" + +The most calm and imperturbable rhinoceros I ever saw was one +that made us a call on the Thika River. It was just noon, and our +boys were making camp after a morning's march. The usual racket +was on, and the usual varied movement of rather confused +industry. Suddenly silence fell. We came out of the tent to see +the safari gazing spellbound in one direction. There was a +rhinoceros wandering peaceably over the little knoll back of +camp, and headed exactly in our direction. While we watched, he +strolled through the edge of camp, descended the steep bank to +the river's edge, drank, climbed the bank, strolled through camp +again and departed over the hill. To us he paid not the slightest +attention. It seems impossible to believe that he neither scented +nor saw any evidences of human life in all that populated flat, +especially when one considers how often these beasts will SEEM to +become aware of man's presence by telepathy.* Perhaps he was the +one exception to the whole race, and was a good-natured rhino. + +*Opposing theories are those of "instinct," and of slight causes, +such a grasshoppers leaping before the hunter's feet, not noticed +by the man approaching. + + +The babies are astonishing and amusing creatures, with blunt +noses on which the horns are just beginning to form, and with +even fewer manners than their parents. The mere fact of an +800-pound baby does not cease to be curious. They are truculent +little creatures, and sometimes rather hard to avoid when they +get on the warpath. Generally, as far as my observation goes, the +mother gives birth to but one at a time. There may be occasional +twin births, but I happen never to have met so interesting a +family. + +Rhinoceroses are still very numerous-too numerous. I have seen +as many as fourteen in two hours, and probably could have found +as many more if I had been searching for them. There is no doubt, +however, that this species must be the first to disappear of the +larger African animals. His great size combined with his 'orrid +'abits mark him for early destruction. No such dangerous lunatic +can be allowed at large in a settled country, nor in a country +where men are travelling constantly. The species will probably be +preserved in appropriate restricted areas. It would be a great +pity to have so perfect an example of the Prehistoric Pinhead +wiped out completely. Elsewhere he will diminish, and finally +disappear. + +For one thing, and for one thing only, is the traveller indebted +to the rhinoceros. The beast is lazy, large, and has an excellent +eye for easy ways through. For this reason, as regards the +question of good roads, he combines the excellent qualities of +Public Sentiment, the Steam Roller, and the Expert Engineer. +Through thorn thickets impenetrable to anything less armoured +than a Dreadnaught like himself he clears excellent paths. Down +and out of eroded ravines with perpendicular sides he makes +excellent wide trails, tramped hard, on easy grades, often with +zigzags to ease the slant. In some of the high country where the +torrential rains wash hundreds of such gullies across the line of +march it is hardly an exaggeration to say that travel would be +practically impossible without the rhino trails wherewith to +cross. Sometimes the perpendicular banks will extend for miles +without offering any natural break down to the stream-bed. Since +this is so I respectfully submit to Government the following +proposal: + +(a) That a limited number of these beasts shall be licensed as +Trail Rhinos; and that all the rest shall be killed from the +settled and regularly travelled districts. + +(b) That these Trail Rhinos shall be suitably hobbled by short +steel chains. + +(c) That each Trail Rhino shall carry painted conspicuously on +his side his serial number. + +(d) That as a further precaution for public safety each Trail +Rhino shall carry firmly attached to his tail a suitable red +warning flag. Thus the well-known habit of the rhinoceros of +elevating his tail rigidly when about to charge, or when in the +act of charging, will fly the flag as a warning to travellers. + +(e) That an official shall be appointed to be known as the +Inspector of Rhinos whose duty it shall be to examine the +hobbles, numbers and flags of all Trail Rhinos, and to keep the +same in due working order and repair. + +And I do submit to all and sundry that the above resolutions have +as much sense to them as have most of the petitions submitted to +Government by settlers in a new country. + + + +XXIII. THE HIPPO POOL + +For a number of days we camped in a grove just above a dense +jungle and not fifty paces from the bank of a deep and wide +river. We could at various points push through light low +undergrowth, or stoop beneath clear limbs, or emerge on tiny open +banks and promontories to look out over the width of the stream. +The river here was some three or four hundred feet wide. It +cascaded down through various large boulders and sluiceways to +fall bubbling and boiling into deep water; it then flowed still +and sluggish for nearly a half mile and finally divided into +channels around a number of wooded islands of different sizes. In +the long still stretch dwelt about sixty hippopotamuses of all +sizes. + +During our stay these hippos led a life of alarmed and angry +care. When we first arrived they were distributed picturesquely +on banks or sandbars, or were lying in midstream. At once they +disappeared under water. By the end of four or five minutes they +began to come to the surface. Each beast took one disgusted look, +snorted, and sank again. So hasty was his action that he did not +even take time to get a full breath; consequently up he had to +come in not more than two minutes, this time. The third +submersion lasted less than a minute; and at the end of half hour +of yelling we had the hippos alternating between the bottom of +the river and the surface of the water about as fast as they +could make a round trip, blowing like porpoises. It was a comical +sight. And as some of the boys were always out watching the show, +those hippos had no respite during the daylight hours. From a +short distance inland the explosive blowing as they came to the +surface sounded like the irregular exhaust of a steam-engine. + +We camped at this spot four days; and never, in that length of +time, during the daytime, did those hippopotamuses take any +recreation and rest. To be sure after a little they calmed down +sufficiently to remain on the surface for a half minute or so, +instead of gasping a mouthful of air and plunging below at once; +but below was where they considered they belonged most of the +time. We got to recognize certain individuals. They would stare +at us fixedly for a while; and then would glump down out of sight +like submarines. + +When I saw them thus floating with only the very top of the head +and snout out of water, I for the first time appreciated why the +Greeks had named them hippopotamuses-the river horses. With the +heavy jowl hidden; and the prominent nostrils, the long +reverse-curved nose, the wide eyes, and the little pointed ears +alone visible, they resembled more than a little that sort of +conventionalized and noble charger seen on the frieze of the +Parthenon, or in the prancy paintings of the Renaissance. + +There were hippopotamuses of all sizes and of all colours. The +little ones, not bigger than a grand piano, were of flesh pink. +Those half-grown were mottled with pink and black in blotches. +The adults were almost invariably all dark, though a few of them +retained still a small pink spot or so-a sort of persistence in +mature years of the eternal boy-, I suppose. All were very sleek +and shiny with the wet; and they had a fashion of suddenly and +violently wiggling one or the other or both of their little ears +in ridiculous contrast to the fixed stare of their bung eyes. +Generally they had nothing to say as to the situation, though +occasionally some exasperated old codger would utter a grumbling +bellow. + +The ground vegetation for a good quarter mile from the river bank +was entirely destroyed, and the earth beaten and packed hard by +these animals. Landing trails had been made leading out from the +water by easy and regular grades. These trails were about two +feet wide and worn a foot or so deep. They differed from the +rhino trails, from which they could be easily distinguished, in +that they showed distinctly two parallel tracks separated from +each other by a slight ridge. In other words, the hippo waddles. +These trails we found as far as four and five miles inland. They +were used, of course, only at night; and led invariably to lush +and heavy feed. While we were encamped there, the country on our +side the river was not used by our particular herd of hippos. One +night, however, we were awakened by a tremendous rending crash of +breaking bushes, followed by an instant's silence and then the +outbreak of a babel of voices. Then we heard a prolonged +sw-i-sh-sh-sh, exactly like the launching of a big boat. A hippo +had blundered out the wrong side the river, and fairly into our +camp. + +In rivers such as the Tana these great beasts are most +extraordinarily abundant. Directly in front of our camp, for +example, were three separate herds which contained respectively +about sixty, forty, and twenty-five head. Within two miles below +camp were three other big pools each with its population; while a +walk of a mile above showed about as many more. This sort of +thing obtained for practically the whole length of the +river-hundreds of miles. Furthermore, every little tributary +stream, no matter how small, provided it can muster a pool or so +deep enough to submerge so large an animal, has its faithful +band. I have known of a hippo quite happily occupying a ditch +pool ten feet wide and fifteen feet long. There was literally not +room enough for the beast to turn around; he had to go in at one +end and out at the other! Each lake, too, is alive with them; and +both lakes and rivers are many. + +Nobody disturbs hippos, save for trophies and an occasional +supply of meat for the men or of cooking fat for the kitchen. +Therefore they wax fat and sassy, and will long continue to +flourish in the land. + +It takes time to kill a hippo, provided one is wanted. The mark +is small, and generally it is impossible to tell whether or not +the bullet has reached the brain. Harmed or whole the beast sinks +anyway. Some hours later the distention of the stomach will float +the body. Therefore the only decent way to do is to take the +shot, and then wait a half day to see whether or not you have +missed. There are always plenty of volunteers in camp to watch +the pool, for the boys are extravagantly fond of hippo meat. Then +it is necessary to manoeuvre a rope on the carcass, often a +matter of great difficulty, for the other hippos bellow and snort +and try to live up to the circus posters of the Blood-sweating +Behemoth of Holy Writ, and the crocodiles like dark meat very +much. Usually one offers especial reward to volunteers, and +shoots into the water to frighten the beasts. The volunteer +dashes rapidly across the shallows, makes a swift plunge, and +clambers out on the floating body as onto a raft. + +Then he makes fast the rope, and everybody tails on and tows the +whole outfit ashore. On one occasion the volunteer produced a +fish line and actually caught a small fish from the floating +carcass! This sounds like a good one; but I saw it with my own +two eyes. + +It was at the hippo pool camp that we first became acquainted +with Funny Face. + +Funny Face was the smallest, furriest little monkey you ever saw. +I never cared for monkeys before; but this one was altogether +engaging. He had thick soft fur almost like that on a Persian +cat, and a tiny human black face, and hands that emerged from a +ruff; and he was about as big as old-fashioned dolls used to be +before they began to try to imitate real babies with them. That +is to say, he was that big when we said farewell to him. When we +first knew him, had he stood in a half pint measure he could just +have seen over the rim. We caught him in a little thorn ravine +all by himself, a fact that perhaps indicates that his mother had +been killed, or perhaps that he, like a good little Funny Face, +was merely staying where he was told while she was away. At any +rate he fought savagely, according to his small powers. We took +him ignominiously by the scruff of the neck, haled him to camp, +and dumped him down on Billy. Billy constructed him a beautiful +belt by sacrificing part of a kodak strap (mine), and tied him to +a chop box filled with dry grass. Thenceforth this became Funny +Face's castle, at home and on the march. + +Within a few hours his confidence in life was restored. He +accepted small articles of food from our hands, eyeing us +intently, retired and examined them. As they all proved +desirable, he rapidly came to the conclusion that these new large +strange monkeys, while not so beautiful and agile as his own +people, were nevertheless a good sort after all. Therefore he +took us into his confidence. By next day he was quite tame, would +submit to being picked up without struggling, and had ceased +trying to take an end off our various fingers. In fact when the +finger was presented, he would seize it in both small black +hands; convey it to his mouth; give it several mild and gentle +love-chews; and then, clasping it with all four hands, would +draw himself up like a little athlete and seat himself upright on +the outspread palm. Thence he would survey the world, wrinkling +up his tiny brow. + +This chastened and scholarly attitude of mind lasted for four or +five days. Then Funny Face concluded that he understood all about +it, had settled satisfactorily to himself all the problems of the +world and his relations to it, and had arrived at a good working +basis for life. Therefore these questions ceased to occupy him. +He dismissed them from his mind completely, and gave himself over +to light-hearted frivolity. + +His disposition was flighty but full of elusive charm. You +deprecated his lack of serious purpose in life, disapproved +heartily of his irresponsibility, but you fell to his engaging +qualities. He was a typical example of the lovable +good-for-naught. Nothing retained his attention for two +consecutive minutes. If he seized a nut and started for his chop +box with it, the chances were he would drop it and forget all +about it in the interest excited by a crawling ant or the colour +of a flower. His elfish face was always alight with the play of +emotions and of flashing changing interests. He was greatly given +to starting off on very important errands, which he forgot before +he arrived. + +In this he contrasted strangely with his friend Darwin. Darwin +was another monkey of the same species, caught about a week +later. Darwin's face was sober and pondering, and his methods +direct and effective. No side excursions into the brilliant +though evanescent fields of fancy diverted him from his ends. +These were, generally, to get the most and best food and the +warmest corner for sleep. When he had acquired a nut, a kernel of +corn, or a piece of fruit, he sat him down and examined it +thoroughly and conscientiously and then, conscientiously and +thoroughly, he devoured it. No extraneous interest could distract +his attention; not for a moment. That he had sounded the +seriousness of life is proved by the fact that he had observed +and understood the flighty character of Funny Face. When Funny +Face acquired a titbit, Darwin took up a hump-backed position +near at hand, his bright little eyes fixed on his friend's +activities. Funny Face would nibble relishingly at his prune for +a moment or so; then an altogether astonishing butterfly would +flitter by just overhead. Funny Face, lost in ecstasy would gaze +skyward after the departing marvel. This was Darwin's +opportunity. In two hops he was at Funny Face's side. With great +deliberation, but most businesslike directness, Darwin disengaged +Funny Face's unresisting fingers from the prune, seized it, and +retired. Funny Face never knew it; his soul was far away after +the blazoned wonder, and when it returned, it was not to prunes +at all. They were forgotten, and his wandering eye focussed back +to a bright button in the grass. Thus by strict attention to +business did Darwin prosper. + +Darwin's attitude was always serious, and his expression grave. +When he condescended to romp with Funny Face one could see that +it was not for the mere joy of sport, but for the purposes of +relaxation. If offered a gift he always examined it seriously +before finally accepting it, turning it over and over in his +hands, and considering it with wrinkled brow. If you offered +anything to Funny Face, no matter what, he dashed up, seized it +on the fly, departed at speed uttering grateful low chatterings; +probably dropped and forgot it in the excitement of something new +before he had even looked to see what it was. + +"These people," said Darwin to himself, "on the whole, and as an +average, seem to give me appropriate and pleasing gifts. To be +sure, it is always well to see that they don't try to bunco me +with olive stones or such worthless trash, but still I believe +they are worth cultivating and standing in with." + +""It strikes me," observed Funny Face to himself, "that my +adorable Memsahib and my beloved bwana have been very kind to me +to-day, though I don't remember precisely how. But I certainly do +love them!" + +We cut good sized holes on each of the four sides of their chop +box to afford them ventilation on the march. The box was always +carried on one of the safari boy's heads: and Funny Face and +Darwin gazed forth with great interest. It was very amusing to +see the big negro striding jauntily along under his light burden; +the large brown winking eyes glued to two of the apertures. When +we arrived in camp and threw the box cover open, they hopped +forth, shook themselves, examined their immediate surroundings +and proceeded to take a little exercise. When anything alarmed +them, such as the shadow of a passing hawk, they skittered madly +up the nearest thing in sight-tent pole, tree, or human form- +and scolded indignantly or chittered in a low tone according to +the degree of their terror. When Funny Face was very young, +indeed, the grass near camp caught fire. After the excitement was +over we found him completely buried in the straw of his box, +crouched, and whimpering like a child. As he could hardly, at his +tender age, have had any previous experience with fire, this +instinctive fear was to me very interesting. + +The monkeys had only one genuine enemy. That was an innocent +plush lion named Little Simba. It had been given us in joke +before we left California, we had tucked it into an odd corner of +our trunk, had discovered it there, carried it on safari out of +sheer idleness, and lo! it had become an important member of the +expedition. Every morning Mahomet or Yusuf packed it-or rather +him-carefully away in the tin box. Promptly at the end of the +day's march Little Simba was haled forth and set in a place of +honour in the centre of the table, and reigned there-or +sometimes in a little grass jungle constructed by his faithful +servitors-until the march was again resumed. His job in life was +to look after our hunting luck. When he failed to get us what we +wanted, he was punished; when he procured us what we desired he +was rewarded by having his tail sewed on afresh, or by being +presented with new black thread whiskers, or even a tiny blanket +of Mericani against the cold. This last was an especial favour +for finally getting us the greater kudu. Naturally as we did all +this in the spirit of an idle joke our rewards and punishments +were rather desultory. To our surprise, however, we soon found +that our boys took Little Simba quite seriously. He was a fetish, +a little god, a power of good or bad luck. We did not appreciate +this point until one evening, after a rather disappointing day, +Mahomet came to us bearing Little Simba in his hand. + +"Bwana," said he respectfully, "is it enough that I shut Simba in +the tin box, or do you wish to flog him?" + +On one very disgraceful occasion, when everything went wrong, we +plucked Little Simba from his high throne and with him made a +beautiful drop-kick out into the tall grass. There, in a loud +tone of voice, we sternly bade him lie until the morrow. The camp +was bung-eyed. It is not given to every people to treat its gods +in such fashion: indeed, in very deed, great is the white man! To +be fair, having published Little Simba's disgrace, we should +publish also Little Simba's triumph: to tell how, at the end of a +certain very lucky three months' safari he was perched atop a +pole and carried into town triumphantly at the head of a howling, +singing procession of a hundred men. He returned to America, and +now, having retired from active professional life, is leading an +honoured old age among the trophies he helped to procure. + +Funny Face first met Little Simba when on an early investigating +tour. With considerable difficulty he had shinnied up the table +leg, and had hoisted himself over the awkwardly projecting table +edge. When almost within reach of the fascinating affairs +displayed atop, he looked straight up into the face of Little +Simba! Funny Face shrieked aloud, let go all holds and fell off +flat on his back. Recovering immediately, he climbed just as high +as he could, and proceeded, during the next hour, to relieve his +feelings by the most insulting chatterings and grimaces. He never +recovered from this initial experience. All that was necessary to +evoke all sorts of monkey talk was to produce Little Simba. +Against his benign plush front then broke a storm of +remonstrance. He became the object of slow advances and sudden +scurrying, shrieking retreats, that lasted just as long as he +stayed there, and never got any farther than a certain quite +conservative point. Little Simba did not mind. He was too busy +being a god. + + + +XXIV. BUFFALO + +The Cape Buffalo is one of the four dangerous kinds of African +big game; of which the other three are the lion, the rhinoceros, +and the elephant. These latter are familiar to us in zoological +gardens, although the African and larger form of the rhinoceros +and elephant are seldom or never seen in captivity. But buffaloes +are as yet unrepresented in our living collections. They are huge +beasts, tremendous from any point of view, whether considered in +height, in mass, or in power. At the shoulder they stand from +just under five feet to just under six feet in height; they are +short legged, heavy bodied bull necked, thick in every dimension. +In colour they are black as to hair, and slate gray as to skin; +so that the individual impression depends on the thickness of the +coat. They wear their horns parted in the middle, sweeping +smoothly away in the curves of two great bosses either side the +head. A good trophy will measure in spread from forty inches to +four feet. Four men will be required to carry in the head alone. +As buffaloes when disturbed or suspicious have a habit of +thrusting their noses up and forward, that position will cling to +one's memory as the most typical of the species. + +A great many hunters rank the buffalo first among the dangerous +beasts. This is not my own opinion, but he is certainly dangerous +enough. He possesses the size, power, and truculence of the +rhinoceros, together with all that animal's keenness of scent and +hearing but with a sharpness of vision the rhinoceros has not. +While not as clever as either the lion or the elephant, he is +tricky enough when angered to circle back for the purpose of +attacking his pursuers in the rear or flank, and to arrange +rather ingenious ambushes for the same purpose. He is rather more +tenacious of life than the rhinoceros, and will carry away an +extraordinary quantity of big bullets. Add to these +considerations the facts that buffaloes go in herds; and that, +barring luck, chances are about even they will have to be +followed into the thickest cover, it can readily be seen that +their pursuit is exciting. + +The problem would be simplified were one able or willing to slip +into the thicket or up to the grazing herd and kill the nearest +beast that offers. As a matter of fact an ordinary herd will +contain only two or three bulls worth shooting; and it is the +hunter's delicate task to glide and crawl here and there, with +due regard for sight, scent and sound, until he has picked one of +these from the scores of undesirables. Many times will he worm +his way by inches toward the great black bodies half defined in +the screen of thick undergrowth only to find that he has stalked +cows or small bulls. Then inch by inch he must back out again, +unable to see twenty yards to either side, guiding himself by the +probabilities of the faint chance breezes in the thicket. To +right and left he hears the quiet continued crop, crop, crop, +sound of animals grazing. The sweat runs down his face in +streams, and blinds his eyes, but only occasionally and with the +utmost caution can he raise his hand-or, better, lower his +head-to clear his vision. When at last he has withdrawn from the +danger zone, he wipes his face, takes a drink from the canteen, +and tries again. Sooner or later his presence comes to the notice +of some old cow. Behind the leafy screen where unsuspected she +has been standing comes the most unexpected and heart-jumping +crash! Instantly the jungle all about roars into life. The great +bodies of the alarmed beasts hurl themselves through the thicket, +smash! bang! crash! smash! as though a tornado were uprooting the +forest. Then abruptly a complete silence! This lasts but ten +seconds or so; then off rushes the wild stampede in another +direction; only again to come to a listening halt of breathless +stillness. So the hunter, unable to see anything, and feeling +very small, huddles with his gunbearers in a compact group, +listening to the wild surging short rushes, now this way, now +that, hoping that the stampede may not run over him. If by chance +it does, he has his two shots and the possibility of hugging a +tree while the rush divides around him. The latter is the most +likely; a single buffalo is hard enough to stop with two shots, +let alone a herd. And yet, sometimes, the mere flash and noise +will suffice to turn them, provided they are not actually trying +to attack, but only rushing indefinitely about. Probably a man +can experience few more thrilling moments than he will enjoy +standing in one of the small leafy rooms of an African jungle +while several hundred tons of buffalo crash back and forth all +around him. + +In the best of circumstances it is only rarely that having +identified his big bull, the hunter can deliver a knockdown blow. +The beast is extraordinarily vital, and in addition it is +exceedingly difficult to get a fair, open shot. Then from the +danger of being trampled down by the blind and senseless stampede +of the herd he passes to the more defined peril from an angered +and cunning single animal. The majority of fatalities in hunting +buffaloes happen while following wounded beasts. A flank charge +at close range may catch the most experienced man; and even when +clearly seen, it is difficult to stop. The buffalo's wide bosses +are a helmet to his brain, and the body shot is always chancy. +The beast tosses his victim, or tramples him, or pushes him +against a tree to crush him like a fly. + +He who would get his trophy, however, is not always-perhaps is +not generally-forced into the thicket to get it. When not much +disturbed, buffaloes are in the habit of grazing out into the +open just before dark; and of returning to their thicket cover +only well after sunrise. If the hunter can arrange to meet his +herd at such a time, he stands a very good chance of getting a +clear shot. The job then requires merely ordinary caution and +manoeuvring; and the only danger, outside the ever-present one +from the wounded beast, is that the herd may charge over him +deliberately. Therefore it is well to keep out of sight. + +The difficulty generally is to locate your beasts. They wander +all night, and must be blundered upon in the early morning before +they have drifted back into the thickets. Sometimes, by sending +skilled trackers in several directions, they can be traced to +where they have entered cover. A messenger then brings the white +man to the place, and every one tries to guess at what spot the +buffaloes are likely to emerge for their evening stroll. It is +remarkably easy to make a wrong guess, and the remaining daylight +is rarely sufficient to repair a mistake. And also, in the case +of a herd ranging a wide country with much tall grass and several +drinking holes, it is rather difficult, without very good luck, +to locate them on any given night or morning. A few herds, a very +few, may have fixed habits, and so prove easy hunting. + +These difficulties, while in no way formidable, are real enough +in their small way; but they are immensely increased when the +herds have been often disturbed. Disturbance need not necessarily +mean shooting. In countries unvisited by white men often the +pastoral natives will so annoy the buffalo by shoutings and other +means, whenever they appear near the tame cattle, that the huge +beasts will come practically nocturnal. In that case only the +rankest luck will avail to get a man a chance in the open. The +herds cling to cover until after sundown and just at dusk; and +they return again very soon after the first streaks of dawn. If +the hunter just happens to be at the exact spot, he may get a +twilight shot when the glimmering ivory of his front sight is +barely visible. Otherwise he must go into the thicket. + +As an illustration of the first condition might be instanced an +afternoon on the Tana. The weather was very hot. We had sent +three lots of men out in different directions, each under the +leadership of one of the gunbearers, to scout, while we took it +easy in the shade of our banda, or grass shelter, on the bank of +the river. About one o'clock a messenger came into camp reporting +that the men under Mavrouki had traced a herd to its lying-down +place. We took our heavy guns and started. + +The way led through thin scrub up the long slope of a hill that +broke on the other side into undulating grass ridges that ended +in a range of hills. These were about four or five miles distant, +and thinly wooded on sides and lower slopes with what resembled a +small live-oak growth. Among these trees, our guide told us, the +buffalo had first been sighted. + +The sun was very hot, and all the animals were still. We saw +impalla in the scrub, and many giraffes and bucks on the plains. +After an hour and a half's walk we entered the parklike groves at +the foot of the hills, and our guide began to proceed more +cautiously. He moved forward a few feet, peered about, retraced +his steps. Suddenly his face broke into a broad grin. Following +his indication we looked up, and there in a tree almost above us +roosted one of our boys sound asleep! We whistled at him. +Thereupon he awoke, tried to look very alert, and pointed in the +direction we should go. After an interval we picked up another +sentinel, and another, and another until, passed on thus from one +to the next, we traced the movements of the herd. Finally we came +upon Mavrouki and Simba under a bush. From them, in whispers, we +learned that the buffalo were karibu sana-very near; that they +had fed this far, and were now lying in the long grass just +ahead. Leaving the men, we now continued our forward movement on +hands and knees, in single file. It was very hot work, for the +sun beat square down on us, and the tall grass kept off every +breath of air. Every few moments we rested, lying on our faces. +Occasionally, when the grass shortened, or the slant of ground +tended to expose us, we lay quite flat and hitched forward an +inch at a time by the strength of our toes. This was very severe +work indeed, and we were drenched in perspiration. In fact, as I +had been feeling quite ill all day, it became rather doubtful +whether I could stand the pace. + +However after a while we managed to drop down into an eroded deep +little ravine. Here the air was like that of a furnace, but at +least we could walk upright for a few rods. This we did, with the +most extraordinary precautions against even the breaking of a +twig or the rolling of a pebble. Then we clambered to the top of +the bank, wormed our way forward another fifty feet to the +shelter of a tiny bush, and stretched out to recuperate. We lay +there some time, sheltered from the sun. Then ahead of us +suddenly rumbled a deep bellow. We were fairly upon the herd! + +Cautiously F., who was nearest the centre of the bush, raised +himself alongside the stem to look. He could see where the beasts +were lying, not fifty yards away, but he could make out nothing +but the fact of great black bodies taking their ease in the grass +under the shade of trees. So much he reported to us; then rose +again to keep watch. + +Thus we waited the rest of the afternoon. The sun dipped at last +toward the west, a faint irregular breeze wandered down from the +hills, certain birds awoke and uttered their clear calls, an +unsuspected kongoni stepped from the shade of a tree over the way +and began to crop the grass, the shadows were lengthening through +the trees. Then ahead of us an uneasiness ran through the herd. +We in the grass could hear the mutterings and grumblings of many +great animals. Suddenly F. snapped his fingers, stooped low and +darted forward. We scrambled to our feet and followed. + +Across a short open space we ran, bent double to the shelter of a +big ant hill. Peering over the top of this we found ourselves +within sixty yards of a long compact column of the great black +beasts, moving forward orderly to the left, the points of the +cow's horns, curved up and in, tossing slowly as the animals +walked. On the flank of the herd was a big gray bull. + +It had been agreed that B. was to have the shot. Therefore he +opened fire with his 405 Winchester, a weapon altogether too +light for this sort of work. At the shot the herd dashed forward +to an open grass meadow a few rods away, wheeled and faced back +in a compact mass, their noses thrust up and out in their typical +fashion, trying with all their senses to locate the cause of the +disturbance. + +Taking advantage both of the scattered cover, and the half light +of the shadows we slipped forward as rapidly and as unobtrusively +as we could to the edge of the grass meadow. Here we came to a +stand eighty yards from the buffaloes. They stood compactly like +a herd of cattle, staring, tossing their heads, moving slightly, +their wild eyes searching for us. I saw several good bulls, but +always they moved where it was impossible to shoot without danger +of getting the wrong beast. Finally my chance came; I planted a +pair of Holland bullets in the shoulder of one of them. + +The herd broke away to the right, sweeping past us at close +range. My bull ran thirty yards with them, then went down stone +dead. When we examined him we found the hole made by B.'s +Winchester bullet; so that quite unintentionally and by accident +I had fired at the same beast. This was lucky. The trophy, by +hunter's law, of course, belonged to B. + +Therefore F. and I alone followed on after the herd. It was now +coming on dusk. Within a hundred yards we began to see scattered +beasts. The formation of the herd had broken. Some had gone on in +flight, while others in small scattered groups would stop to +stare back, and would then move slowly on for a few paces before +stopping again. Among these I made out a bull facing us about a +hundred and twenty-five yards away, and managed to stagger him, +but could not bring him down. + +Now occurred an incident which I should hesitate to relate were +it not that both F. and myself saw it. We have since talked it +over, compared our recollections, and found them to coincide in +every particular. + +As we moved cautiously in pursuit of the slowly retreating herd +three cows broke back and came running down past us. We ducked +aside and hid, of course, but noticed that of the three two were +very young, while one was so old that she had become fairly +emaciated, a very unusual thing with buffaloes. We then followed +the herd for twenty minutes, or until twilight, when we turned +back. About halfway down the slope we again met the three cows, +returning. They passed us within twenty yards, but paid us no +attention whatever. The old cow was coming along very +reluctantly, hanging back at every step, and every once in a +while swinging her head viciously at one or the other of her two +companions. These escorted her on either side, and a little to +the rear. They were plainly urging her forward, and did not +hesitate to dig her in the ribs with their horns whenever she +turned especially obstinate. In fact they acted exactly like a +pair of cowboys HERDING a recalcitrant animal back to its band +and I have no doubt at all that when they first by us the old +lady was making a break for liberty in the wrong direction, AND +THAT THE TWO YOUNGER COWS WERE TRYING TO ROUND +HER BACK! Whether they were her daughters or not is problematical; +but it certainly seemed that they were taking care of her and trying +to prevent her running back where it was dangerous to go. I never +heard of a similar case. though Herbert Ward* mentions, without +particulars that elephants AND BUFFALOES will assist each other +WHEN WOUNDED. + +*A Voice from the COngo. + + +After passing these we returned to where B. and the men, who had +now come up, had prepared the dead bull for transportation. We +started at once, travelling by the stars, shouting and singing to +discourage the lions, but did not reach camp until well into the +night. + + + +XXV. THE BUFFALO-continued + +Some months later, and many hundreds of miles farther south, +Billy and I found ourselves alone with twenty men, and two weeks +to pass until C.-our companion at the time-should return from a +long journey out with a wounded man. By slow stages, and relaying +back and forth, we landed in a valley so beautiful in every way +that we resolved to stay as long as possible. This could be but +five days at most. At the end of that time we must start for our +prearranged rendezvous with C. + +The valley was in the shape of an ellipse, the sides of which +were formed by great clifflike mountains, and the other two by +hills lower, but still of considerable boldness and size. The +longest radius was perhaps six or eight miles, and the shortest +three or four. At one end a canyon dropped away to a lower level, +and at the other a pass in the hills gave over to the country of +the Narassara River. The name of the valley was Lengeetoto. + +>From the great mountains flowed many brooks of clear sparkling +water, that ran beneath the most beautiful of open jungles, to +unite finally in one main stream that disappeared down the canyon. +Between these brooks were low broad rolling hills, sometimes +grass covered, sometimes grown thinly with bushes. Where they +headed in the mountains, long stringers of forest trees ran up to +blocklike groves, apparently pasted like wafers against the base +of the cliffs, but in reality occupying spacious slopes below +them. + +We decided to camp at the foot of a long grass slant within a +hundred yards of the trees along one of the small streams. Before +us we had the sweep of brown grass rising to a clear cut skyline; +and all about us the distant great hills behind which the day +dawned and fell. One afternoon a herd of giraffes stood +silhouetted on this skyline quite a half hour gazing curiously +down on our camp. Hartebeeste and zebra swarmed in the grassy +openings; and impalla in the brush. We saw sing-sing and +steinbuck, and other animals, and heard lions nearly every night. +But principally we elected to stay because a herd of buffaloes +ranged the foothills and dwelt in the groves of forest trees +under the cliffs. We wanted a buffalo; and as Lengeetoto is +practically unknown to white men, we thought this a good chance +to get one. In that I reckoned without the fact that at certain +seasons the Masai bring their cattle in, and at such times annoy +the buffalo all they can. + +We started out well enough. I sent Memba Sasa with two men to +locate the herd. About three o'clock a messenger came to camp +after me. We plunged through our own jungle, crossed a low swell, +traversed another jungle, and got in touch with the other two +men. They reported the buffalo had entered the thicket a few +hundred yards below us. Cautiously reconnoitering the ground it +soon became evident that we would be forced more definitely to +locate the herd. To be sure, they had entered the stream jungle +at a known point, but there could be no telling how far they +might continue in the thicket, nor on what side of it they would +emerge at sundown. Therefore we commenced cautiously and slowly +follow the trail. + +The going was very thick, naturally, and we could not see very +far ahead. Our object was not now to try for a bull, but merely +to find where the herd was feeding, in order that we might wait +for it to come out. However, we were brought to a stand, in the +middle of a jungle of green leaves, by the cropping sound of a +beast grazing just the other side of a bush. We could not see it, +and we stood stock still in the hope of escaping discovery +ourselves. But an instant later a sudden crash of wood told us we +had been seen. It was near work. The gunbearers crouched close to +me. I held the heavy double gun ready. If the beast had elected +to charge I would have had less than ten yards within which to +stop it. Fortunately it did not do so. But instantly the herd was +afoot and off at full speed. A locomotive amuck in a kindling +pile could have made no more appalling a succession of rending +crashes than did those heavy animals rushing here and there +through the thick woody growth. We could see nothing. Twice the +rush started in our direction, but stopped as suddenly as it had +begun, to be succeeded by absolute stillness when everything, +ourselves included, held its breath to listen. Finally, the first +panic over, the herd started definitely away downstream. We ran +as fast as we could out of the jungle to a commanding position on +the hill. Thence we could determine the course of the herd. It +continued on downstream as far as we could follow the sounds in +the convolutions of the hills. Realizing that it would improbably +recover enough from its alarmed condition to resume its regular +habits that day, we returned to camp. + +Next morning Memba Sasa and I were afield before daylight. We +took no other men. In hunting I am a strong disbeliever in the +common habit of trailing along a small army. It is simple enough, +in case the kill is made, to send back for help. No matter how +skilful your men are at stalking, the chances of alarming the +game are greatly increased by numbers; while the possibilities of +misunderstanding the plan of campaign, and so getting into the +wrong place at the wrong time, are infinite. Alone, or with one +gunbearer, a man can slip in and out a herd of formidable animals +with the least chances of danger. Merely going out after camp +meat is of course a different matter. + +We did not follow in the direction taken by the herd the night +before, but struck off toward the opposite side of the valley. +For two hours we searched the wooded country at the base of the +cliff mountains, working slowly around the circle, examining +every inlet, ravine and gully. Plenty of other sorts of game we +saw, including elephant tracks not a half hour old; but no +buffalo. About eight o'clock, however, while looking through my +glasses, I caught sight of some tiny chunky black dots crawling +along below the mountains diagonally across the valley, and +somewhat over three miles away. We started in that direction as +fast as we could walk. At the end of an hour we surmounted the +last swell, and stood at the edge of a steep drop. Immediately +below us flowed a good-sized stream through a high jungle over +the tops of which we looked to a triangular gentle slope +overgrown with scattered bushes and high grass. Beyond this again +ran another jungle, angling up hill from the first, to end in a +forest of trees about thirty or forty acres in extent. This +jungle and these trees were backed up against the slope of the +mountain. The buffaloes we had first seen above the grove: they +must now have sought cover among either the trees or the lower +jungle, and it seemed reasonable that the beasts would emerge on +the grass and bush area late in the afternoon. Therefore Memba +Sasa and I selected good comfortable sheltered spots, leaned our +backs against rocks, and resigned ourselves to long patience. It +was now about nine o'clock in the morning, and we could not +expect our game to come out before half past three at earliest. +We could not, however, go away to come back later because of the +chance that the buffaloes might take it into their heads to go +travelling. I had been fooled that way before. For this reason, +also, it was necessary, every five minutes or so, to examine +carefully all our boundaries; lest the beasts might be slipping +away through the cover. + +The hours passed very slowly. We made lunch last as long as +possible. I had in my pocket a small edition of Hawthorne's "The +House of the Seven Gables," which I read, pausing every few +minutes to raise my glasses for the periodical examination of the +country. The mental focussing back from the pale gray half light +of Hawthorne's New England to the actuality of wild Africa was a +most extraordinary experience. + +Through the heat of the day the world lay absolutely silent. At +about half-past three, however, we heard rumblings and low +bellows from the trees a half mile away. I repocketed Hawthorne, +and aroused myself to continuous alertness. + +The ensuing two hours passed more slowly than all the rest of the +day, for we were constantly on the lookout. The buffaloes delayed +most singularly, seemingly reluctant to leave their deep cover. +The sun dropped behind the mountains, and their shadow commenced +to climb the opposite range. I glanced at my watch. We had not +more than a half hour of daylight left. + +Fifteen minutes of this passed. It began to look as though our +long and monotonous wait had been quite in vain; when, right +below us, and perhaps five hundred yards away, four great black +bodies fed leisurely from the bushes. Three of them we could see +plainly. Two were bulls of fair size. The fourth, half concealed +in the brush, was by far the biggest of the lot. + +In order to reach them we would have to slip down the face of the +hill on which we sat, cross the stream jungle at the bottom, +climb out the other side, and make our stalk to within range. +With a half hour more of daylight this would have been +comparatively easy, but in such circumstances it is difficult to +move at the same time rapidly and unseen. However, we decided to +make the attempt. To that end we disencumbered ourselves of all +our extras-lunch box, book, kodak, glasses, etc.-and wormed our +way as rapidly as possible toward the bottom of the hill. We +utilized the cover as much as we were able, but nevertheless +breathed a sigh of relief when we had dropped below the line of +the jungle. We wasted very little time crossing the latter, save +for precautions against noise. Even in my haste, however, I had +opportunity to notice its high and austere character, with the +arching overhead vines, and the clear freedom from undergrowth in +its heart. Across this cleared space we ran at full speed, +crouching below the grasp of the vines, splashed across the brook +and dashed up the other bank. Only a faint glimmer of light +lingered in the jungle. At the upper edge we paused, collected +ourselves, and pushed cautiously through the thick border-screen +of bush. + +The twilight was just fading into dusk. Of course we had taken +our bearings from the other hill; so now, after reassuring +ourselves of them, we began to wriggle our way at a great pace +through the high grass. Our calculations were quite accurate. We +stalked successfully, and at last, drenched in sweat, found +ourselves lying flat within ten yards of a small bush behind +which we could make out dimly the black mass of the largest beast +we had seen from across the way. + +Although it was now practically dark, we had the game in our own +hands. From our low position the animal, once it fed forward from +behind the single small bush, would be plainly outlined against +the sky, and at ten yards I should be able to place my heavy +bullets properly, even in the dark. Therefore, quite easy in our +minds, we lay flat and rested. At the end of twenty seconds the +animal began to step forward. I levelled my double gun, ready to +press trigger the moment the shoulder appeared in the clear. Then +against the saffron sky emerged the ugly outline and two +upstanding horns of a rhinoceros! + +"Faru!" I whispered disgustedly to Memba Sasa. With infinite +pains we backed out, then retreated to a safe distance. It was of +course now too late to hunt up the three genuine buffaloes of +this ill-assorted group. + +In fact our main necessity was to get through the river jungle +before the afterglow had faded from the sky, leaving us in pitch +darkness. I sent Memba Sasa across to pick up the effects we had +left on the opposite ridge, while I myself struck directly across +the flat toward camp. + +I had plunged ahead thus, for two or three hundred yards, when I +was brought up short by the violent snort of a rhinoceros just +off the starboard bow. He was very close, but I was unable to +locate him in the dusk. A cautious retreat and change of course +cleared me from him, and I was about to start on again full speed +when once more I was halted by another rhinoceros, this time dead +ahead. Attempting to back away from him, I aroused another in my +rear; and as though this were not enough a fourth opened up to +the left. + +It was absolutely impossible to see anything ten yards away +unless it happened to be silhouetted against the sky. I backed +cautiously toward a little bush, with a vague idea of having +something to dodge around. As the old hunter said when, unarmed, +he met the bear, "Anything, even a newspaper, would have come +handy." To my great joy I backed against a conical ant hill four +or five feet high. This I ascended and began anti-rhino +demonstrations. I had no time to fool with rhinos, anyway. I +wanted to get through that jungle before the leopards left their +family circles. I hurled clods of earth and opprobrious shouts +and epithets in the four directions of my four obstreperous +friends, and I thought I counted four reluctant departures. Then, +with considerable doubt, I descended from my ant hill and hurried +down the slope, stumbling over grass hummocks, colliding with +bushes, tangling with vines, but progressing in a gratifyingly +rhinoless condition. Five minutes cautious but rapid feeling my +way brought me through the jungle. Shortly after I raised the +campfires; and so got home. + +The next two days were repetitions, with slight variation, of +this experience, minus the rhinos! Starting from camp before +daylight we were only in time to see the herd-always +aggravatingly on the other side of the cover, no matter which +side we selected for our approach, slowly grazing into the dense +jungle. And always they emerged so late and so far away that our +very best efforts failed to get us near them before dark. The +margin always so narrow, however, that our hopes were alive. + +On the fourth day, which must be our last in Longeetoto, we found +that the herd had shifted to fresh cover three miles along the +base of the mountains. We had no faith in those buffaloes, but +about half-past three we sallied forth dutifully and took +position on a hill overlooking the new hiding place. This +consisted of a wide grove of forest trees varied by occasional +open glades and many dense thickets. So eager were we to win what +had by now developed into a contest that I refused to shoot a +lioness with a three-quarters-grown cub that appeared within easy +shot from some reeds below us. + +Time passed as usual until nearly sunset. Then through an opening +into one of the small glades we caught sight of the herd +travelling slowly but steadily from right to left. The glimpse +was only momentary, but it was sufficient to indicate the +direction from which we might expect them to emerge. Therefore we +ran at top speed down from our own hill, tore through the jungle +at its foot, and hastily, but with more caution, mounted the +opposite slope through the scattered groves and high grass. We +could hear occasionally indications of the buffaloes' slow +advance, and we wanted to gain a good ambuscade above them before +they emerged. We found it in the shape of a small conical hillock +perched on the side hill itself, and covered with long grass. It +commanded open vistas through the scattered trees in all +directions. And the thicket itself ended not fifty yards away. No +buffalo could possibly come out without our seeing him; and we +had a good half hour of clear daylight before us. It really +seemed that luck had changed at last. + +We settled ourselves, unlimbered for action, and got our breath. +The buffaloes came nearer and nearer. At length, through a tiny +opening a hundred yards away, we could catch momentary glimpses +of their great black bodies. I thrust forward the safety catch +and waited. Finally a half dozen of the huge beasts were feeding +not six feet inside the circle of brush, and only thirty-odd +yards from where we lay. + +And they came no farther! I never passed a more heart-breaking +half hour of suspense than that in which little by little the +daylight and our hopes faded, while those confounded buffaloes +moved slowly out to the very edge of the thicket, turned, and +moved as slowly back again. At times they came actually into +view. We could see their sleek black bodies rolling lazily into +sight and back again, like seals on the surface of water, but +never could we make out more than that. I could have had a dozen +good shots, but I could not even guess what I would be shooting +at. And the daylight drained away and the minutes ticked by! + +Finally, as I could see no end to this performance save that to +which we had been so sickeningly accustomed in the last four +days, I motioned to Memba Sasa, and together we glided like +shadows into the thicket. + +There it was already dusk. We sneaked breathlessly through the +small openings, desperately in a hurry, almost painfully on the +alert. In the dark shadow sixty yards ahead stood a half dozen +monstrous bodies all facing our way. They suspected the presence +of something unusual, but in the darkness and the stillness they +could neither identify it nor locate it exactly. I dropped on one +knee and snatched my prism glasses to my eyes. The magnification +enabled me to see partially into the shadows. Every one of the +group carried the sharply inturned points to the horns: they were +all cows! + +An instant after I had made out this fact, they stampeded across +our face. The whole band thundered and crashed away. + +Desperately we sprang after them, our guns atrail, our bodies +stooped low to keep down in the shadow of the earth. And +suddenly, without the slightest warning we plumped around a bush +square on top of the entire herd. It had stopped and was staring +back in our direction. I could see nothing but the wild toss of a +hundred pair of horns silhouetted against such of the irregular +saffron afterglow as had not been blocked off by the twigs and +branches of the thicket. All below was indistinguishable +blackness. + +They stood in a long compact semicircular line thirty yards away, +quite still, evidently staring intently into the dusk to find out +what had alarmed them. At any moment they were likely to make +another rush; and if they did so in the direction they were +facing, they would most certainly run over us and trample us +down. + +Remembering the dusk I thought it likely that the unexpected +vivid flash of the gun might turn them off before they got +started. Therefore I raised the big double Holland, aimed below +the line of heads, and was just about to pull trigger when my eye +caught the silhouette of a pair of horns whose tips spread out +instead of turning in. This was a bull, and I immediately shifted +the gun in his direction. At the heavy double report, the herd +broke wildly to right and left and thundered away. I confess I +was quite relieved. + +A low moaning bellow told us that our bull was down. The last few +days' experience at being out late had taught us wisdom so Memba +Sasa had brought a lantern. By the light of this, we discovered +our bull down, and all but dead. To make sure, I put a Winchester +bullet into his backbone. + +We felt ourselves legitimately open to congratulations, for we +had killed this bull from a practically nocturnal herd, in the +face of considerable danger and more than considerable +difficulty. Therefore we shook hands and made appropriate remarks +to each other, lacking anybody to make them for us. + +By now it was pitch dark in the thicket, and just about so +outside. We had to do a little planning. I took the Holland gun, +gave Memba Sasa the Winchester, and started him for camp after +help. As he carried off the lantern, it was now up to me to make +a fire and to make it quickly. + +For the past hour a fine drizzle had been falling; and the whole +country was wet from previous rains. I hastily dragged in all the +dead wood I could find near, collected what ought to be good +kindling, and started in to light a fire. Now, although I am no +Boy Scout, I have lit several fires in my time. But never when I +was at the same time in such a desperate need and hurry; and in +possession of such poor materials. The harder I worked, the worse +things sputtered and smouldered. Probably the relief from the +long tension of the buffalo hunt had something to do with my +general piffling inefficiency. If I had taken time to do a proper +job once instead of a halfway job a dozen times, as I should have +done and usually would have done, I would have had a fire in no +time. I imagine I was somewhat scared. The lioness and her +hulking cub had smelled the buffalo and were prowling around. I +could hear them purring and uttering their hollow grunts. +However, at last the flame held. I fed it sparingly, lit a pipe, +placed the Holland gun next my hand, and resigned myself to +waiting. For two hours this was not so bad. I smoked, and rested +up, and dried out before my little fire. Then my fuel began to +run low. I arose and tore down all the remaining dead limbs +within the circle of my firelight. These were not many, so I +stepped out into the darkness for more. Immediately I was warned +back by a deep growl! + +The next hour was not one of such solid comfort. I began to get +parsimonious about my supply of firewood, trying to use it in +such a manner as to keep up an adequate blaze, and at the same +time to make it last until Memba Sasa should return with the men. +I did it, though I got down to charred ends before I was through. +The old lioness hung around within a hundred yards or so below, +and the buffalo herd, returning, filed by above, pausing to stamp +and snort at the fire. Finally, about nine o'clock, I made out +two lanterns bobbing up to me through the trees. + +The last incident to be selected from many experiences with +buffaloes took place in quite an unvisited district over the +mountains from the Loieta Plains. For nearly two months we had +ranged far in this lovely upland country of groves and valleys +and wide grass bottoms between hills, hunting for greater kudu. +One day we all set out from camp to sweep the base of a range of +low mountains in search of a good specimen of Newman's +hartebeeste, or anything else especially desirable that might +happen along. The gentle slope from the mountains was of grass +cut by numerous small ravines grown with low brush. This brush +was so scanty as to afford but indifferent cover for anything +larger than one of the small grass antelopes. All the ravines led +down a mile or so to a deeper main watercourse paralleling the +mountains. Some water stood in the pools here; and the cover was +a little more dense, but consisted at best of but a "stringer" no +wider than a city street. Flanking the stringer were scattered +high bushes for a few yards; and then the open country. +Altogether as unlikely a place for the shade-loving buffalo as +could be imagined. + +We collected our Newmanii after rather a long hunt; and just at +noon, when the heat of the day began to come on, we wandered down +to the water for lunch. Here we found a good clear pool and +drank. The boys began to make themselves comfortable by the +water's edge; C. went to superintend the disposal of Billy's +mule. Billy had sat down beneath the shade of the most hospitable +of the bushes a hundred feet or so away, and was taking off her +veil and gloves. I was carrying to her the lunch box. When I was +about halfway from where the boys were drinking at the stream's +edge to where she sat, a buffalo bull thrust his head from the +bushes just the other side of her. His head was thrust up and +forward, as he reached after some of the higher tender leaves on +the bushes. So close was he that I could see plainly the drops +glistening on his moist black nose. As for Billy, peacefully +unwinding her long veil, she seemed fairly under the beast. + +I had no weapon, and any moment might bring some word or some +noise that would catch the animal's attention. Fortunately, for +the moment, every one, relaxed in the first reaction after the +long morning, was keeping silence. If the buffalo should look +down, he could not fail to see Billy; and if he saw her, he would +indubitably kill her. + +As has been explained, snapping the fingers does not seem to +reach the attention of wild animals. Therefore I snapped mine as +vigorously as I knew how. Billy heard, looked toward me, turned +in the direction of my gaze, and slowly sank prone against the +ground. Some of the boys heard me also, and I could see the heads +of all of them popping up in interest from the banks of the +stream. My cautious but very frantic signals to lie low were +understood: the heads dropped back. Mavrouki, a rifle in each +hand, came worming his way toward me through the grass with +incredible quickness and agility. A moment later he thrust the +405 Winchester into my hand. + +This weapon, powerful and accurate as it is, the best of the lot +for lions, was altogether too small for the tremendous brute +before me. However, the Holland was in camp; and I was very glad +in the circumstances to get this. The buffalo had browsed slowly +forward into the clear, and was now taking the top off a small +bush, and facing half away from us. It seemed to me quite the +largest buffalo I had ever seen, though I should have been +willing to have acknowledged at that moment that the +circumstances had something to do with the estimate. However, +later we found that the impression was correct. He was verily a +giant of his kind. His height at the shoulder was five feet ten +inches; and his build was even chunkier than the usual solid +robust pattern of buffaloes. For example, his neck, just back of +the horns, was two feet eight inches thick! He weighed not far +from three thousand pounds. + +Once the rifle was in my hands I lost the feeling of utter +helplessness, and began to plan the best way out of the +situation. As yet the beast was totally unconscious of our +presence; but that could not continue long. There were too many +men about. A chance current of air from any one of a half dozen +directions could not fail to give him the scent. Then there would +be lively doings. It was exceedingly desirable to deliver the +first careful blow of the engagement while he was unaware. On the +other hand, his present attitude-half away from me-was not +favourable; nor, in my exposed position dared I move to a better +place. There seemed nothing better than to wait; so wait we did. +Mavrouki crouched close at my elbow, showing not the faintest +indication of a desire to be anywhere but there. + +The buffalo browsed for a minute or so; then swung slowly +broadside on. So massive and low were the bosses of his horns +that the brain shot was impossible. Therefore I aimed low in the +shoulder. The shock of the bullet actually knocked that great +beast off his feet! My respect for the hitting power of the 405 +went up several notches. The only trouble was that he rebounded +like a rubber ball. Without an instant's hesitation I gave him +another in the same place. This brought him to his knees for an +instant; but he was immediately afoot again. Billy had, with +great good sense and courage, continued to lie absolutely flat +within a few yards of the beast, Mavrouki and I had kept low, and +C. and the men were out of sight. The buffalo therefore had seen +none of his antagonists. He charged at a guess, and guessed +wrong. As he went by I fired at his head, and, as we found out +afterward, broke his jaw. A moment later C.'s great elephant gun +roared from somewhere behind me as he fired by a glimpse through +the brush at the charging animal. It was an excellent snapshot, +and landed back of the ribs. + +When the buffalo broke through the screen of brush I dashed after +him, for I thought our only chance of avoiding danger lay in +keeping close track of where that buffalo went. On the other side +the bushes I found a little grassy opening, and then a small but +dense thicket into which the animal had plunged. To my left, C. +was running up, followed closely by Billy, who, with her usual +good sense, had figured out the safest place to be immediately +back of the guns. We came together at the thicket's edge. + +The animal's movements could be plainly followed by the sound of +his crashing. We heard him dash away some distance, pause, circle +a bit to the right, and then come rushing back in our direction. +Stooping low we peered into the darkness of the thicket. Suddenly +we saw him, not a dozen yards away. He was still afoot, but very +slow. I dropped the magazine of five shots into him as fast as I +could work the lever. We later found all the bullet-holes in a +spot as big as the palm of your hand. These successive heavy +blows delivered all in the same place were too much for even his +tremendous vitality; and slowly he sank on his side. + + + +XXVI. JUJA + +Most people have heard of Juja, the modern dwelling in the heart +of an African wilderness, belonging to our own countryman, +Mr. W. N. McMillan. If most people are as I was before I saw the place, +they have considerable curiosity and no knowledge of what it is +and how it looks. + +We came to Juja at the end of a wide circle that had lasted three +months, and was now bringing us back again toward our starting +point. For five days we had been camped on top a high bluff at +the junction of two rivers. When we moved we dropped down the +bluff, crossed one river, and, after some searching, found our +way up the other bluff. There we were on a vast plain bounded by +mountains thirty miles away. A large white and unexpected sign +told us we were on Juja Farm, and warned us that we should be +careful of our fires in the long grass. + +For an hour we plodded slowly along. Herds of zebra and +hartebeeste drew aside before us, dark heavy wildebeeste-the +gnu-stood in groups at a safe distance their heads low, looking +exactly like our vanished bison; ghostlike bands of Thompson's +gazelles glided away with their smooth regular motion. On the +vast and treeless plains single small objects standing above the +general uniformity took an exaggerated value; so that, before it +emerged from the swirling heat mirage, a solitary tree might +easily be mistaken for a group of buildings or a grove. Finally, +however, we raised above the horizon a dark straight clump of +trees. It danced in the mirage, and blurred and changed form, but +it persisted. A strange patch of white kept appearing and +disappearing again. This resolved itself into the side of a +building. A spider-legged water tower appeared above the trees. + +Gradually we drew up on these. A bit later we swung to the right +around a close wire fence ten feet high, passed through a gate, +and rode down a long slanting avenue of young trees. Between the +trees were century plants and flowers, and a clipped border ran +before them. The avenue ended before a low white bungalow, with +shady verandas all about it, and vines. A formal flower garden +lay immediately about it, and a very tall flag pole had been +planted in front. A hundred feet away the garden dropped off +steep to one of the deep river canyons. + +Two white-robed Somalis appeared on the veranda to inform us that +McMillan was off on safari. Our own boys approaching at this +moment, we thereupon led them past the house, down another long +avenue of trees and flowers, out into an open space with many +buildings at its edges, past extensive stables, and through +another gate to the open plains once more. Here we made camp. +After lunch we went back to explore. + +Juja is situated on the top of a high bluff overlooking a river. +In all directions are tremendous grass plains. Donya Sabuk-the +Mountain of Buffaloes-is the only landmark nearer than the dim +mountains beyond the edge of the world, and that is a day's +journey away. A rectangle of possibly forty acres has been +enclosed on three sides by animal-proof wire fence. The fourth +side is the edge of the bluff. Within this enclosure have been +planted many trees, now of good size; a pretty garden with +abundance of flowers, ornamental shrubs, a sundial, and lawns. In +the river bottom land below the bluff is a very extensive +vegetable and fruit garden, with cornfields, and experimental +plantings of rubber, and the like. For the use of the people of +Juja here are raised a great variety and abundance of vegetables, +fruits, and grains. + +Juja House, as has been said, stands back a hundred feet from a +bend in the bluffs that permits a view straight up the river +valley. It is surrounded by gardens and trees, and occupies all +one end of the enclosed rectangle. Farther down and perched on +the edge of a bluff, are several pretty little bungalows for the +accommodation of the superintendent and his family, for the +bachelors' mess, for the farm offices and dispensary, and for the +dairy room, the ice-plant and the post-office and telegraph +station. Back of and inland from this row on the edge of the +cliff, and scattered widely in open space, are a large store +stocked with everything on earth, the Somali quarters of low +whitewashed buildings, the cattle corrals, the stables, wild +animal cages, granaries, blacksmith and carpenter shops, wagon +sheds and the like. Outside the enclosure, and a half mile away, +are the conical grass huts that make up the native village. Below +the cliff is a concrete dam, an electric light plant, a pumping +plant and a few details of the sort. + +Such is a relief map of Juja proper. Four miles away, and on +another river, is Long Juja, a strictly utilitarian affair where +grow ostriches, cattle, sheep, and various irrigated things in +the bottom land. All the rest of the farm, or estate, or whatever +one would call it, is open plain, with here and there a river +bottom, or a trifle of brush cover. But never enough to constitute +more than an isolated and lonesome patch. + +Before leaving London we had received from McMillan earnest +assurances that he kept open house, and that we must take +advantage of his hospitality should we happen his way. Therefore +when one of his white-robed Somalis approached us to inquire +respectfully as to what we wanted for dinner, we yielded weakly +to the temptation and told him. Then we marched us boldly to the +house and took possession. + +All around the house ran a veranda, shaded bamboo curtains and +vines, furnished with the luxurious teakwood chairs of the +tropics of which you can so extend the arms as to form two +comfortable and elevated rests for your feet. Horns of various +animals ornamented the walls. A megaphone and a huge terrestrial +telescope on a tripod stood in one corner. Through the latter one +could examine at favourable times the herds of game on the +plains. + +And inside-mind you, we were fresh from three months in the +wilderness-we found rugs, pictures, wall paper, a pianola, many +books, baths, beautiful white bedrooms with snowy mosquito +curtains, electric lights, running water, and above all an +atmosphere of homelike comfort. We fell into easy chairs, and +seized books and magazines. The Somalis brought us trays with +iced and fizzy drinks in thin glasses. When the time came we +crossed the veranda in the rear to enter a spacious separate +dining-room. The table was white with napery, glittering with +silver and glass, bright with flowers. We ate leisurely of a +well-served course dinner, ending with black coffee, shelled +nuts, and candied fruit. Replete and satisfied we strolled back +across the veranda to the main house. F. raised his hand. + +"Hark!" he admonished us. + +We held still. From the velvet darkness came the hurried petulant +barking of zebra; three hyenas howled. + + + +XXVII. A VISIT AT JUJA + +Next day we left all this; and continued our march. About a month +later, however, we encountered McMillan himself in Nairobi. I was +just out from a very hard trip to the coast-Billy not with +me-and wanted nothing so much as a few days' rest. McMillan's +cordiality was not to be denied, however, so the very next day +found us tucking ourselves into a buckboard behind four white +Abyssinian mules. McMillan, some Somalis and Captain Duirs came +along in another similar rig. Our driver was a Hottentot +half-caste from South Africa. He had a flat face, a yellow skin, +a quiet manner, and a competent hand. His name was Michael. At +his feet crouched a small Kikuyu savage, in blanket ear ornaments +and all the fixings, armed with a long lashed whip and raucous +voice. At any given moment he was likely to hop out over the +moving wheel, run forward, bat the off leading mule, and hop back +again, all with the most extraordinary agility. He likewise +hurled what sounded like very opprobrious epithets at such +natives as did not get out the way quickly enough to suit him. +The expression of his face, which was that of a person steeped in +woe, never changed. + +We rattled out of Nairobi at a great pace, and swung into the +Fort Hall Road. This famous thoroughfare, one of the three or +four made roads in all East Africa, is about sixty miles long. It +is a strategic necessity but is used by thousands of natives on +their way to see the sights of the great metropolis. As during +the season there is no water for much of the distance, a great +many pay for their curiosity with their lives. The road skirts +the base of the hills, winding in and out of shallow canyons and +about the edges of rounded hills. To the right one can see far +out across the Athi Plains. + +We met an almost unbroken succession of people. There were long +pack trains of women, quite cheerful, bent over under the weight +of firewood or vegetables, many with babies tucked away in the +folds of their garments; mincing dandified warriors with +poodle-dog hair, skewers in their ears, their jewelery brought to +a high polish a fatuous expression of self-satisfaction on their +faces, carrying each a section of sugarcane which they now used +as a staff but would later devour for lunch; bearers, under +convoy of straight soldierly red-sashed Sudanese, transporting +Government goods; wild-eyed staring shenzis from the forest, with +matted hair and goatskin garments, looking ready to bolt aside at +the slightest alarm; coveys of marvellous and giggling damsels, +their fine-grained skin anointed and shining with red oil, strung +with beads and shells, very coquettish and sure of their feminine +charm; naked small boys marching solemnly like their elders; +camel trains from far-off Abyssinia or Somaliland under convoy of +white-clad turbaned grave men of beautiful features; donkey +safaris in charge of dirty degenerate looking East Indians +carrying trade goods to some distant post-all these and many +more, going one way or the other, drew one side, at the sight of +our white faces, to let us pass. + +About two o'clock we suddenly turned off from the road, +apparently quite at random, down the long grassy interminable +incline that dipped slowly down and slowly up again over great +distance to form the Athi Plains. Along the road, with its +endless swarm of humanity, we had seen no game, but after a half +mile it began to appear. We encountered herds of zebra, kongoni, +wildebeeste, and "Tommies" standing about or grazing, sometimes +almost within range from the moving buckboard. After a time we +made out the trees and water tower of Juja ahead; and by four +o'clock had turned into the avenue of trees. Our approach had +been seen. Tea was ready, and a great and hospitable table of +bottles, ice, and siphons. + +The next morning we inspected the stables, built of stone in a +hollow square, like a fort, with box stalls opening directly into +the courtyard and screened carefully against the deadly flies. +The horses, beautiful creatures, were led forth each by his proud +and anxious syce. We tried them all, and selected our mounts for +the time of our stay. The syces were small black men, lean and +well formed, accustomed to running afoot wherever their charges +went, at walk, lope or gallop. Thus in a day they covered +incredible distances over all sorts of country; but were always +at hand to seize the bridle reins when the master wished to +dismount. Like the rickshaw runners in Nairobi, they wore their +hair clipped close around their bullet heads and seemed to have +developed into a small compact hard type of their own. They ate +and slept with their horses. + +Just outside the courtyard of the stables a little barred window +had been cut through. Near this were congregated a number of +Kikuyu savages wrapped in their blankets, receiving each in turn +a portion of cracked corn from a dusty white man behind the bars. +They were a solemn, unsmiling, strange type of savage, and they +performed all the manual work within the enclosure, squatting on +their heels and pulling methodically but slowly at the weeds, +digging with their pangas, carrying loads: to and fro, or +solemnly pushing a lawn mower, blankets wrapped shamelessly about +their necks. They were harried about by a red-faced beefy English +gardener with a marvellous vocabulary of several native languages +and a short hippo-hide whip. He talked himself absolutely purple +in the face without, as far as my observation went, penetrating +an inch below the surface. The Kikuyus went right on doing what +they were already doing in exactly the same manner. Probably the +purple Englishman was satisfied with that, but I am sure apoplexy +of either the heat or thundering variety has him by now. + +Before the store building squatted another group of savages. +Perhaps in time one of the lot expected to buy something; or +possibly they just sat. Nobody but a storekeeper would ever have +time to find out. Such is the native way. The storekeeper in this +case was named John. Besides being storekeeper, he had charge of +the issuing of all the house supplies, and those for the white +men's mess; he must do all the worrying about the upper class +natives; he must occasionally kill a buck for the meat supply; +and he must be prepared to take out any stray tenderfeet that +happen along during McMillan's absence, and persuade them that +they are mighty hunters. His domain was a fascinating place, for +it contained everything from pianola parts to patent washstands. +The next best equipped place of the kind I know of is the +property room of a moving picture company. + +We went to mail a letter, and found the postmaster to be a +gentle-voiced, polite little Hindu, who greeted us smilingly, and +attempted to conceal a work of art. We insisted; whereupon he +deprecatingly drew forth a copy of a newspaper cartoon having to +do with Colonel Roosevelt's visit. It was copied with +mathematical exactness, and highly coloured in a manner to throw +into profound melancholy the chauffeur of a coloured supplement +press. We admired and praised; whereupon, still shyly, he +produced more, and yet again more copies of the same cartoon. +When we left, he was reseating himself to the painstaking +valueless labour with which he filled his days. Three times a +week such mail as Juja gets comes in via native runner. We saw +the latter, a splendid figure, almost naked, loping easily, his +little bundle held before him. + +Down past the office and dispensary we strolled, by the +comfortable, airy, white man's clubhouse. The headman of the +native population passed us with a dignified salute; a fine +upstanding deep-chested man, with a lofty air of fierce pride. He +and his handful of soldiers alone of the natives, except the +Somalis and syces, dwelt within the compound in a group of huts +near the gate. There when off duty they might be seen polishing +their arms, or chatting with their women. The latter were ladies +of leisure, with wonderful chignons, much jewelery, and +patterned Mericani wrapped gracefully about their pretty figures. + +By the time we had seen all these things it was noon. We ate +lunch. The various members of the party decided to do various +things. I elected to go out with McMillan while he killed a +wildebeeste, and I am very glad I did. It was a most astonishing +performance. + +You must imagine us driving out the gate in a buckboard behind +four small but lively white Abyssinian mules. In the front seat +were Michael, the Hottentot driver, and McMillan's Somali +gunbearer. In the rear seat were McMillan and myself, while a +small black syce perched precariously behind. Our rifles rested +in a sling before us. So we jogged out on the road to Long Juju, +examining with a critical eye the herds of game to right and left +of us. The latter examined us, apparently, with an eye as +critical. Finally, in a herd of zebra, we espied a lone +wildebeeste. + +The wildebeeste is the Jekyll and Hyde of the animal kingdom. His +usual and familiar habit is that of a heavy, sluggish animal, +like our vanished bison. He stands solid and inert, his head +down; he plods slowly forward in single file, his horns swinging, +each foot planted deliberately. In short, he is the +personification of dignity, solid respectability, gravity of +demeanour. But then all of a sudden, at any small interruption, +he becomes the giddiest of created beings. Up goes his head and +tail, he buck jumps, cavorts, gambols, kicks up his heels, bounds +stiff-legged, and generally performs like an irresponsible +infant. To see a whole herd at once of these grave and reverend +seigneurs suddenly blow up into such light-headed capers goes far +to destroy one's faith in the stability of institutions. + +Also the wildebeeste is not misnamed. He is a conservative, and +he sees no particular reason for allowing his curiosity to +interfere with his preconceived beliefs. The latter are +distrustful. Therefore he and his females and his young-I should +say small-depart when one is yet far away. I say small, because +I do not believe that any wildebeeste is ever young. They do not +resemble calves, but are exact replicas of the big ones, just as +Niobe's daughters are in nothing childlike, but merely smaller +women. + +When we caught sight of this lone wildebeeste among the zebra, I +naturally expected that we would pull up the buckboard, descend, +and approach to within some sort of long range. Then we would +open fire. Barring luck, the wildebeeste would thereupon depart +"wilder and beestier than ever," as John McCutcheon has it. Not at +all! Michael, the Hottentot, turned the buckboard off the road, +headed toward the distant quarry, and charged at full speed! Over +stones we went that sent us feet into the air, down and out of +shallow gullies that seemed as though they would jerk the pole +from the vehicle with a grand rattlety-bang, every one hanging on +for his life. I was entirely occupied with the state of my spinal +column and the retention of my teeth, but McMillan must have been +keeping his eye on the game. One peculiarity of the wildebeeste +is that he cannot see behind him, and another is that he is +curious. It would not require a very large bump of curiosity, +however, to cause any animal to wonder what all the row was +about. There could be no doubt that this animal would sooner or +later stop for an instant to look for the purpose of seeing what +was up in jungleland; and just before doing so he would, for a +few steps, slow down from a gallop to a trot. McMillan was +watching for this symptom. + +"Now!" he yelled, when he saw it. + +Instantly Michael threw his weight into the right rein and +against the brake. We swerved so violently to the right and +stopped so suddenly that I nearly landed on the broad prairies. +The manoeuvre fetched us up broadside. The small black syce-and +heaven knows how HE had managed to hang on-darted to the heads +of the leading mules. At the same moment the wildebeeste turned, +and stopped; but even before he had swung his head, McMillan had +fired. It was extraordinarily good, quick work, the way he picked +up the long range from the spurts of dust where the bullets hit. +At the third or fourth shots he landed one. Immediately the beast +was off again at a tearing run pursued by a rapid fusillade from +the remaining shots. Then with a violent jerk and a wild yell we +were off again. + +This time, since the animal was wounded, he made for rougher +country. And everywhere that wildebeeste went we too were sure to +go. We hit or shaved boulders that ought to have smashed a wheel, +we tore through thick brush regardless. Twice we charged +unhesitatingly over apparent precipices. I do not know the name +of the manufacturer of the buckboard. If I did, I should +certainly recommend it here. Twice more we swerved to our +broadside and cut loose the port batteries. Once more McMillan +hit. Then, on the fourth "run," we gained perceptibly. The beast +was weakening. When he came to a stumbling halt we were not over +a hundred yards from him, and McMillan easily brought him down. +We had chased him four or five miles, and McMillan had fired +nineteen shots, of which two had hit. The rifle practice +throughout had been remarkably good, and a treat to watch. +Personally, besides the fun of attending the show, I got a mighty +good afternoon's exercise. + +We loaded the game aboard and jogged slowly back to the house, +for the mules were pretty tired. We found a neighbour, Mr. +Heatley of Kamiti Ranch who had "dropped down" twelve miles to +see us. On account of a theft McMillan now had all the Somalis +assembled for interrogation on the side verandas. The +interrogation did not amount to much, but while it was going on +the Sudanese headman and his askaris were quietly searching the +boys' quarters. After a time they appeared. The suspected men had +concealed nothing, but the searchers brought with them three of +McMillan's shirts which they had found among the effects of +another, and entirely unsuspected, boy named Abadie. + +"How is this, Abadie?" demanded McMillan sternly. + +Abadie hesitated. Then he evidently reflected that there is +slight use in having a deity unless one makes use of him. + +"Bwana," said he with an engaging air of belief and candour, "God +must have put them there!" + +That evening we planned a "general day" for the morrow. We took +boys and buckboards and saddle-horses, beaters, shotguns, rifles, +and revolvers, and we sallied forth for a grand and joyous time. +The day from a sporting standpoint was entirely successful, the +bag consisting of two waterbuck, a zebra, a big wart-hog, six +hares, and six grouse. Personally I was a little hazy and +uncertain. By evening the fever had me, and though I stayed at +Juja for six days longer, it was as a patient to McMillan's +unfailing kindness rather than as a participant in the life of +the farm. + + + +XXVIII. A RESIDENCE AT JUJA + +A short time later, at about middle of the rainy season, McMillan +left for a little fishing off Catalina Island. The latter is some +fourteen thousand miles of travel from Juja. Before leaving on +this flying trip, McMillan made us a gorgeous offer. + +"If," said he, "you want to go it alone, you can go out and use +Juja as long as you please." + +This offer, or, rather, a portion of it, you may be sure, we +accepted promptly. McMillan wanted in addition to leave us his +servants; but to this we would not agree. Memba Sasa and Mahomet +were, of course, members of our permanent staff. In addition to +them we picked up another house boy, named Leyeye. He was a +Masai. These proud and aristocratic savages rarely condescend to +take service of any sort except as herders; but when they do they +prove to be unusually efficient and intelligent. We had also a +Somali cook, and six ordinary bearers to do general labour. This +small safari we started off afoot for Juja. The whole lot cost us +about what we would pay one Chinaman on the Pacific Coast. + +Next day we ourselves drove out in the mule buckboard. The rains +were on, and the road was very muddy. After the vital tropical +fashion the grass was springing tall in the natural meadows and +on the plains and the brief-lived white lilies and an abundance +of ground flowers washed the slopes with colour. Beneath the +grass covering, the entire surface of the ground was an inch or +so deep in water. This was always most surprising, for, +apparently, the whole country should have been high and dry. +Certainly its level was that of a plateau rather than a bottom +land; so that one seemed always to be travelling at an elevation. +Nevertheless walking or riding we were continually splashing, and +the only dry going outside the occasional rare "islands" of the +slight undulations we found near the very edge of the bluffs +above the rivers. There the drainage seemed sufficient to carry +off the excess. Elsewhere the hardpan or bedrock must have been +exceptionally level and near the top of the ground. + +Nothing nor nobody seemed to mind this much. The game splashed +around merrily, cropping at the tall grass; the natives slopped +indifferently, and we ourselves soon became so accustomed to two +or three inches of water and wet feet that after the first two +days we never gave those phenomena a thought. + +The world above at this season of the year was magnificent. The +African heavens are always widely spacious, but now they seemed +to have blown even vaster than usual. In the sweep of the vision +four or five heavy black rainstorms would be trailing their +skirts across an infinitely remote prospect; between them white +piled scud clouds and cumuli sailed like ships; and from them +reflected so brilliant a sunlight and behind all showed so +dazzling a blue sky that the general impression was of a fine +day. The rainstorms' gray veils slanted; tremendous patches of +shadow lay becalmed on the plains; bright sunshine poured +abundantly its warmth and yellow light. + +So brilliant with both direct and reflected light and the values +of contrast were the heavens, that when one happened to stand +within one of the great shadows it became extraordinarily +difficult to make out game on the plains. The pupils contracted +to the brilliancy overhead. Often too, near sunset, the +atmosphere would become suffused with a lurid saffron light that +made everything unreal and ghastly. At such times the game seemed +puzzled by the unusual aspect of things. The zebra especially +would bark and stamp and stand their ground, and even come nearer +out of sheer curiosity. I have thus been within fifty yards of +them, right out in the open. At such times it was as though the +sky, instead of rounding over in the usual shape, had been thrust +up at the western horizon to the same incredible height as the +zenith. In the space thus created were piled great clouds through +which slanted broad bands of yellow light on a diminished world. + +It rained with great suddenness on our devoted heads, and with a +curious effect of metamorphoslng the entire universe. One moment +all was clear and smiling, with the trifling exception of distant +rain squalls that amounted to nothing in the general scheme. Then +the horizon turned black, and with incredible swiftness the dark +clouds materialized out of nothing, rolled high to the zenith +like a wave, blotted out every last vestige of brightness. A +heavy oppressive still darkness breathed over the earth. Then +through the silence came a faraway soft drumming sound, barely to +be heard. As we bent our ears to catch this it grew louder and +louder, approaching at breakneck speed like a troop of horses. It +became a roar fairly terrifying in its mercilessly continued +crescendo. At last the deluge of rain burst actually as a relief. + +And what a deluge! Facing it we found difficulty in breathing. In +six seconds every stitch we wore was soaked through, and only the +notebook, tobacco, and matches bestowed craftily in the crown of +the cork helmet escaped. The visible world was dark and +contracted. It seemed that nothing but rain could anywhere exist; +as though this storm must fill all space to the horizon and +beyond. Then it swept on and we found ourselves steaming in +bright sunlight. The dry flat prairie (if this was the first +shower for some time) had suddenly become a lake from the surface +of which projected bushes and clumps of grass. Every game trail +had become the water course of a swiftly running brook. + +But most pleasant were the evenings at Juja, when, safe indoors, +we sat and listened to the charge of the storm's wild horsemen, +and the thunder of its drumming on the tin roof. The onslaughts +were as fierce and abrupt as those of Cossacks, and swept by as +suddenly. The roar died away in the distance, and we could then +hear the steady musical dripping of waters. + +Pleasant it was also to walk out from Juja in almost any +direction. The compound, and the buildings and trees within it, +soon dwindled in the distances of the great flat plain. Herds of +game were always in sight, grazing, lying down, staring in our +direction. The animals were incredibly numerous. Some days they +were fairly tame, and others exceedingly wild, without any rhyme +or reason. This shyness or the reverse seemed not to be +individual to one herd; but to be practically universal. On a +"wild day" everything was wild from the Lone Tree to Long Juju. +It would be manifestly absurd to guess at the reason. Possibly +the cause might be atmospheric or electrical; possibly days of +nervousness might follow nights of unusual activity by the lions; +one could invent a dozen possibilities. Perhaps the kongonis +decided it. + +At Juja we got to know the kongonis even better than we had +before. They are comical, quizzical beasts, with long-nosed +humorous faces, a singularly awkward construction, a shambling +gait; but with altruistic dispositions and an ability to get over +the ground at an extraordinary speed. Every move is a joke; their +expression is always one of grieved but humorous astonishment. +They quirk their heads sidewise or down and stare at an intruder +with the most comical air of skeptical wonder. "Well, look who's +here!" says the expression. + +"Pooh!" says the kongoni himself, after a good look, "pooh! +pooh!" with the most insulting inflection. + +He is very numerous and very alert. One or more of a grazing herd +are always perched as sentinels atop ant hills or similar small +elevations. On the sIightest intimation of danger they give the +alarm, whereupon the herd makes off at once, gathering in all +other miscellaneous game that may be in the vicinity. They will +go out of their way to do this, as every African hunter knows. It +immensely complicates matters; for the sportsman must not only +stalk his quarry, but he must stalk each and every kongoni as +well. Once, in another part of the country, C. and I saw a +kongoni leave a band of its own species far down to our right, +gallop toward us and across our front, pick up a herd of zebra we +were trying to approach and make off with them to safety. We +cursed that kongoni, but we admired him, for he deliberately ran +out of safety into danger for the purpose of warning those zebra. +So seriously do they take their job as policemen of the plains +that it is very common for a lazy single animal of another +species to graze in a herd of kongonis simply for the sake of +protection. Wildebeeste are much given to this. + +The kongoni progresses by a series of long high bounds. While in +midair he half tucks up his feet, which gives him the appearance +of an automatic toy. This gait looks deliberate, but is really +quite fast, as the mounted sportsman discovers when he enters +upon a vain pursuit. If the horse is an especially good one, so +that the kongoni feels himself a trifle closely pressed, the +latter stops bouncing and runs. Then he simply fades away into +the distance. + +These beasts are also given to chasing each other all over the +landscape. When a gentleman kongoni conceives a dislike for +another gentleman kongoni, he makes no concealment of his +emotions, but marches up and prods him in the ribs. The ensuing +battle is usually fought out very stubbornly with much feinting, +parrying, clashing of the lyre-shaped horns; and a good deal of +crafty circling for a favourable opening. As far as I was ever +able to see not much real damage is inflicted; though I could +well imagine that only skilful fence prevented unpleasant +punctures in soft spots. After a time one or the other feels +himself weakening. He dashes strongly in, wheels while his +antagonist is braced, and makes off. The enemy pursues. Then, +apparently, the chase is on for the rest of the day. The victor +is not content merely to drive his rival out of the country; he +wants to catch him. On that object he is very intent; about as +intent as the other fellow is of getting away. I have seen two +such beasts almost run over a dozen men who were making no effort +to keep out of sight. Long after honour is satisfied, indeed, as +it seems to me, long after the dictates of common decency would +call a halt that persistent and single-minded pursuer bounds +solemnly and conscientiously along in the wake of his disgusted +rival. + +These and the zebra and wildebeeste were at Juja the most +conspicuous game animals. If they could not for the moment be +seen from the veranda of the house itself, a short walk to the +gate was sufficient to reveal many hundreds. Among them fed herds +of the smaller Thompson's gazelle, or "Tommies." So small were +they that only their heads could be seen above the tall grass as +they ran. + +To me there was never-ending fascination in walking out over +those sloppy plains in search of adventure, and in the pleasure +of watching the beasts. Scarcely less fascination haunted a +stroll down the river canyons or along the tops of the bluffs +above them. Here the country was broken into rocky escarpments in +which were caves; was clothed with low and scattered brush; or +was wooded in the bottom lands. Naturally an entirely different +set of animals dwelt here; and in addition one was often treated +to the romance of surprise. Herds of impalla haunted these edges; +graceful creatures, trim and pretty with wide horns and beautiful +glowing red coats. Sometimes they would venture out on the open +plains, in a very compact band, ready to break back for cover at +the slightest alarm; but generally fed inside the fringe of +bushes. Once from the bluff above I saw a beautiful herd of over +a hundred pacing decorously along the river bottom below me, +single file, the oldest buck at the head, and the miscellaneous +small buck bringing up the rear after the does. I shouted at +them. Immediately the solemn procession broke. They began to +leap, springing straight up into the air as though from a +released spring, or diving forward and upward in long graceful +bounds like dolphins at sea. These leaps were incredible. Several +even jumped quite over the backs of others; and all without a +semblance of effort. + +Along the fringe of the river, too, dwelt the lordly waterbuck, +magnificent and proud as the stags of Landseer; and the tiny +steinbuck and duiker, no bigger than jack-rabbits, but perfect +little deer for all that. The incredibly plebeian wart-hog rooted +about; and down in the bottom lands were leopards. I knocked one +off a rock one day. In the river itself dwelt hippopotamuses and +crocodiles. One of the latter dragged under a yearling calf just +below the house itself, and while we were there. Besides these +were of course such affairs as hyenas and jackals, and great +numbers of small game: hares, ducks, three kinds of grouse, +guinea fowl, pigeons, quail, and jack snipe, not to speak of a +variety of plover. + +In the drier extents of dry grass atop the bluffs the dance birds +were especially numerous; each with his dance ring nicely trodden +out, each leaping and falling rhythmically for hours at a time. +Toward sunset great flights of sand grouse swarmed across the +yellowing sky from some distant feeding ground. + +Near Juja I had one of the three experiences that especially +impressed on my mind the abundance of African big game. I had +stalked and wounded a wildebeeste across the N'derogo River, and +had followed him a mile or so afoot, hoping to be able to put in +a finishing shot. As sometimes happens the animal rather gained +strength as time went on; so I signalled for my horse, mounted, +and started out to run him down. After a quarter mile we began to +pick up the game herds. Those directly in our course ran straight +away; other herds on either side, seeing them running, came +across in a slant to join them. Inside of a half mile I was +driving before me literally thousands of head of game of several +varieties. The dust rose in a choking cloud that fairly obscured +the landscape, and the drumming of the hooves was like the +stampeding of cattle. It was a wonderful sight. + +On the plains of Juja, also, I had my one real African Adventure, +when, as in the Sunday Supplements, I Stared Death in the +Face-also everlasting disgrace and much derision. We were just +returning to the farm after an afternoon's walk, and as we +approached I began to look around for much needed meat. A herd of +zebra stood in sight; so leaving Memba Sasa I began to stalk +them. My usual weapon for this sort of thing was the Springfield, +for which I carried extra cartridges in my belt. On this +occasion, however, I traded with Memba Sasa for the 405, simply +for the purpose of trying it out. At a few paces over three +hundred yards I landed on the zebra, but did not knock him down. +Then I set out to follow. It was a long job and took me far, for +again and again he joined other zebra, when, of course, I could +not tell one from t'other. My only expedient was to frighten the +lot. There upon the uninjured ones would distance the one that +was hurt. The latter kept his eye on me. Whenever I managed to +get within reasonable distance, I put up the rear sight of the +405, and let drive. I heard every shot hit, and after each hit +was more than a little astonished to see the zebra still on his +feet, and still able to wobble on.* The fifth shot emptied the +rifle. As I had no more cartridges for this arm, I approached to +within sixty yards, and stopped to wait either for him to fall, +or for a very distant Memba Sasa to come up with more cartridges. +Then the zebra waked up. He put his ears back and came straight +in my direction. This rush I took for a blind death flurry, and +so dodged off to one side, thinking that he would of course go by +me. Not at all! He swung around on the circle too, and made after +me. I could see that his ears were back, eyes blazing, and his +teeth snapping with rage. It was a malicious charge, and, as +such, with due deliberation, I offer it to sportsman's annals. As +I had no more cartridges I ran away as fast as I could go. +Although I made rather better time than ever I had attained to +before, it was evident that the zebra would catch me; and as the +brute could paw, bite, and kick, I did not much care for the +situation. Just as he had nearly reached me, and as I was trying +to figure on what kind of a fight I could put up with a clubbed +rifle barrel, he fell dead. To be killed by a lion is at least a +dignified death; but to be mauled by a zebra! + +I am sorry I did not try out this heavy-calibred rifle oftener +at long range. It was a marvellously effective weapon at close +quarters; but I have an idea-but only a tentative idea-that +above three hundred yards its velocity is so reduced by air +resistance against the big blunt bullet as greatly to impair its +hitting powers. + + +We generally got back from our walks or rides just before dark +to find the house gleaming with lights, a hot bath ready, and a +tray of good wet drinks next the easy chairs. There, after +changing our clothes, we sipped and read the papers-two months +off the press, but fresh arrived for all that-until a +white-robed, dignified figure appeared in the doorway to inform +us that dinner was ready. Our ways were civilized and soft, then, +until the morrow when once again, perhaps, we went forth into the +African wilderness. + +Juja is a place of startling contrasts-of naked savages clipping +formal hedges, of windows opening from a perfectly appointed +brilliantly lighted dining-room to a night whence float the lost +wails of hyenas or the deep grumbling of lions, of cushioned +luxurious chairs in reach of many books, but looking out on hills +where the game herds feed, of comfortable beds with fine linen +and soft blankets where one lies listening to the voices of an +African night, or the weirder minor house noises whose origin and +nature no man could guess, of tennis courts and summer houses, of +lawns and hammocks, of sundials and clipped hedges separated only +by a few strands of woven wire from fields identical with those +in which roamed the cave men of the Pleistocene. But to Billy was +reserved the most ridiculous contrast of all. Her bedroom opened +to a veranda a few feet above a formal garden. This was a very +formal garden, with a sundial, gravelled walks, bordered flower +beds, and clipped border hedges. One night she heard a noise +outside. Slipping on a warm wrap and seizing her trusty revolver +she stole out on the veranda to investigate. She looked over the +veranda rail. There just below her, trampling the flower beds, +tracking the gravel walks, endangering the sundial, stood a +hippopotamus! + +We had neighbours six or seven miles away. At times they came +down to spend the night and luxuriate in the comforts of +civilization. They were a Lady A., and her nephew, and a young +Scotch acquaintance the nephew had taken into partnership. They +had built themselves circular houses of papyrus reeds with +conical thatched roofs and earth floors, had purchased ox teams +and gathered a dozen or so Kikuyus, and were engaged in breaking +a farm in the wilderness. The life was rough and hard, and Lady +A. and her nephew gently bred, but they seemed to be having quite +cheerfully the time of their lives. The game furnished them meat, +as it did all of us, and they hoped in time that their labours +would make the land valuable and productive. Fascinating as was +the life, it was also one of many deprivations. At Juja were a +number of old copies of Life, the pretty girls in which so +fascinated the young men that we broke the laws of propriety by +presenting them, though they did not belong to us. C., the +nephew, was of the finest type of young Englishman, clean cut, +enthusiastic, good looking, with an air of engaging vitality and +optimism. His partner, of his own age, was an insufferable youth. +Brought up in some small Scottish valley, his outlook had never +widened. Because he wanted to buy four oxen at a cheaper price, +he tried desperately to abrogate quarantine regulations. If he +had succeeded, he would have made a few rupees, but would have +introduced disease in his neighbours' herds. This consideration +did not affect him. He was much given to sneering at what he +could not understand; and therefore, a great deal met with his +disapproval. His reading had evidently brought him down only to +about the middle sixties; and affairs at that date were to him +still burning questions. Thus he would declaim vehemently over +the Alabama claims. + +"I blush with shame," he would cry, "when I think of England's +attitude in that matter." + +We pointed out that the dispute had been amicably settled by the +best minds of the time, had passed between the covers of history, +and had given way in immediate importance to several later +topics. + +"This vacillating policy," he swept on, "annoys me. For my part, +I should like to see so firm a stand taken on all questions that +in any part of the world, whenever a man, and wherever a man, +said 'I am an Englishman? everybody else would draw back!'" + +He was an incredible person. However, I was glad to see him; he +and a few others of his kind have consoled me for a number of +Americans I have met abroad. Lady A., with the tolerant +philosophy of her class, seemed merely amused. I have often since +wondered how this ill-assorted partnership turned out. + +Two other neighbours of ours dropped in once or twice-twenty-six +miles on bicycles, on which they could ride only a portion of the +distance. They had some sort of a ranch up in the Ithanga Hills; +and were two of the nicest fellows one would want to meet, +brimful of energy, game for anything, and had so good a time +always that the grumpiest fever could not prevent every one else +having a good time too. Once they rode on their bicycles forty +miles to Nairobi, danced half the night at a Government House +ball, rode back in the early morning, and did an afternoon's +plowing! They explained this feat by pointing out most +convincingly that the ground was just right for plowing, but they +did not want to miss the ball! + +Occasionally a trim and dapper police official would drift in on +horseback looking for native criminals; and once a safari came +by. Twelve miles away was the famous Kamiti Farm of Heatly, where +Roosevelt killed his buffalo; and once or twice Heatly himself, a +fine chap, came to see us. Also just before I left with Duirs for +a lion hunt on Kapiti, Lady Girouard, wife of the Governor, and +her nephew and niece rode out for a hunt. In the African fashion, +all these people brought their own personal servants. It makes +entertaining easy. Nobody knows where all these boys sleep; but +they manage to tuck away somewhere, and always show up after a +mysterious system of their own whenever there is anything to be +done. + +We stayed at Juja a little over three weeks. Then most +reluctantly said farewell and returned to Nairobi in preparation +for a long trip to the south. + + + +XXIX. CHAPTER THE LAST + +With our return from Juja to Nairobi for a breathing space, this +volume comes to a logical conclusion. In it I have tried to give +a fairly comprehensive impression-it could hardly be a picture +of so large a subject-of a portion of East Equatorial Africa, +its animals, and its people. Those who are sufficiently +interested will have an opportunity in a succeeding volume of +wandering with us even farther afield. The low jungly coast +region; the fierce desert of the Serengetti; the swift sullen +rhinoceros-haunted stretches of the Tsavo; Nairobi, the strangest +mixture of the twentieth centuries A.D. and B.C.; Mombasa with +its wild, barbaric passionate ebb and flow of life, of colour, of +throbbing sound, the great lions of the Kapiti Plains, the Thirst +of the Loieta, the Masai spearmen, the long chase for the greater +kudu; the wonderful, high unknown country beyond the Narossara +and other affairs will there be detailed. If the reader of this +volume happens to want more, there he will find it. + + + +APPENDIX I + +Most people are very much interested in how hot it gets in such +tropics as we traversed. Unfortunately it is very difficult to +tell them. Temperature tables have very little to do with the +matter, for humidity varies greatly. On the Serengetti at lower +reaches of the Guaso Nyero I have seen it above 110 degrees. It +was hot, to be sure, but not exhaustingly so. On the other hand, +at 90 or 95 degrees the low coast belt I have had the sweat run +from me literally in streams; so that a muddy spot formed +wherever I stood still. In the highlands, moreover, the nights +were often extremely cold. I have recorded night temperatures as +low as 40 at 7000 feet of elevation; and noon temperatures as low +65. + +Of more importance than the actual or sensible temperature of the +air is the power of the sun's rays. At all times of year this is +practically constant; for the orb merely swings a few degrees +north and south of the equator, and the extreme difference in +time between its risings or settings is not more than twenty minutes. +This power is also practically constant whatever the temperature +of the air and is dangerous even on a cloudy day, when the heat +waves are effectually screened off, but when the actinic rays are +as active as ever. For this reason the protection of helmet and +spine pad should never be omitted, no matter what the condition +of the weather, between nine o'clock and four. A very brief +exposure is likely to prove fatal. It should be added that some +people stand these actinic rays better than others. + +Such being the case, mere temperature tables could have little +interest to the general reader. I append a few statistics, +selected from many, and illustrative of the different conditions. + + +Locality. Elevation 6am noon 8pm Apparent conditions +Coast --- 80 90 76 Very hot and sticky +Isiola River 2900 65 94 84 Hot but not exhausting +Tans River 3350 68 98 79 Hot but not exhausting +Near Meru 5450 62 80 70 Very pleasant +Serengetti Plains 2200 78 106 86 Hot and humid +Narossara River 5450 54 89 69 Very pleasant +Narossara Mts. 7400 42 80 50 Chilly +Narossara Mts. 6450 40 62 52 Cold + + + +APPENDIX II + +GAME ANIMALS COLLECTED + +Lion Bush pig Grant's gazelle +Serval cat Baboon Thompson's gazelle +Cheetah Colobus Gerenuk gazelle +Black-backed jackal Hippopotamus Coke's hartebeests +Silver jackal Rhinoceros Jackson's hartebeests +Striped hyena Crocodile Neuman's hartebeests +Spotted hyena Python Chandler's reedbuck +Fennec fox Ward's zebra Bohur reedbuck +Honey badger Grevy's zebra Beisa ox +Aardewolf Notata gazelle Fringe-eared oryx +Wart-hog Roberts' gazelle Duiker +Waterbuck Klipspringer Harvey's duiker +Sing-sing Dik-dik Greater kudu +Oribi (3 varieties) Wildebeeste Lesser kudu +Eland Roosevelt's wildebeests Sable antelope +Roan antelope Buffalo +Bushbuck Topi + +Total, fifty-four kinds + + +GAME BIRDS COLLECTED + +Marabout Gadwall Lesser bustard +Egret European stork Guinea fowl +Glossy ibis Quail Giant guinea fowl +Egyptian goose Sand grouse Green pigeon +White goose Francolin Blue pigeon +English snipe Spur fowl Dove (2 species) +Mallard duck Greater bustard + +Total, twenty-two kinds + + + +APPENDIX III + +For the benefit of the sportsman and gun crank who want plain +facts and no flapdoodle, the following statistics are offered. To +the lay reader this inclusion will be incomprehensible; but I +know my gun crank as I am one myself! + +Army Springfield, model 1903 to take the 1906 cartridge, shooting +the Spitzer sharp point bullet. Stocked to suit me by Ludwig +Wundhammer, and fitted with Sheard gold bead front sight and +Lyman aperture receiver sight. With this I did most my shooting, +as the trajectory was remarkably good, and the killing power +remarkable. Tried out both the old-fashioned soft point bullets +and the sharp Spitzer bullets, but find the latter far the more +effective. In fact the paralyzing shock given by the Spitzer is +almost beyond belief. African animals are notably tenacious of +life; but the Springfield dropped nearly half the animals dead +with one shot; a most unusual record, as every sportsman will +recognize. The bullets seemed on impact always to flatten +slightly at the base, the point remaining intact-to spin widely +on the axis, and to plunge off at an angle. This action of course +depended on the high velocity. The requisite velocity, however +seemed to keep up within all shooting ranges. A kongoni I killed +at 638 paces (measured), and another at 566 paces both exhibited +this action of the bullet. I mention these ranges because I have +seen the statement in print that the remaining velocity beyond +350 yards would not be sufficient in this arm to prevent the +bullet passing through cleanly. I should also hasten to add that +I do not habitually shoot at game at the above ranges; but did so +in these two instances for the precise purpose of testing the +arm. Metal fouling did not bother me at all, though I had been +led to expect trouble from it. The weapon was always cleaned with +water so boiling hot that the heat of the barrel dried it. When +occasionally flakes of metal fouling became visible a Marble +brush always sufficed to remove enough of it. It was my habit to +smear the bullets with mobilubricant before placing them in the +magazine. This was not as much of a nuisance as it sounds. A +small tin box about the size of a pill box lasted me the whole +trip; and only once did I completely empty the magazine at one +time. On my return I tested the rifle very thoroughly for +accuracy. In spite of careful cleaning the barrel was in several +places slightly corroded. For this the climate was responsible. +The few small pittings, however, did not seem in any way to have +affected the accuracy, as the rifle shot the following groups: +3-1/2 inches at 200 yards; 7-1/4 inches at 300 yards; and +11-1/2 inches at 500 yards.* + +*It shot one five-shot 1-2/3 inch group at 200 yds., and several +others at all distances less than the figures given, but I am +convinced these must have been largely accidental. + + +These groups were not made from a machine rest, however; as none +was available. The complete record with this arm for my whole +stay in Africa was 307 hits out of 395 cartridges fired, +representing 185 head of game killed. Most of this shooting was +for meat and represented also all sorts of "varmints" as well. + +The 405 Winchester. This weapon was sighted like the Springfield, +and was constantly in the field as my second gun. For lions it +could not be beaten; as it was very accurate, delivered a hard +blow, and held five cartridges. Beyond 125 to 150 yards one had +to begin to guess at distance, so for ordinary shooting I +preferred the Springfield. In thick brush country, however, where +one was likely to come suddenly on rhinoceroes, but where one +wanted to be ready always for desirable smaller game, the +Winchester was just the thing. It was short, handy, and reliable. +One experience with a zebra 300-350 yards has made me question +whether at long (hunting) ranges the remaining velocity of the +big blunt nosed bullet is not seriously reduced; but as to that I +have not enough data for a final conclusion. I have no doubt, +however, that at such ranges, and beyond, the little Springfield +has more shocking power. Of course at closer ranges the +Winchester is by far the more powerful. I killed one rhinoceros +with the 405, one buffalo and one hippo; but should consider it +too light for an emergency gun against the larger dangerous +animals, such as buffalo and rhinoceros. If one has time for +extreme accuracy, and can pick the shot, it is plenty big; but I +refer now to close quarters in a hurry. I had no trouble whatever +with the mechanism of this arm; nor have I ever had trouble with +any of the lever actions, although I have used them for many +years. As regards speed of fire the controversy between the lever +and bolt action advocates seems to me foolish in the extreme. +Either action can be fired faster than it should be fired in the +presence of game. It is my belief that any man, no matter how +practised or how cool, can stampede himself beyond his best +accuracy by pumping out his shots too rapidly. This is especially +true in the face of charging dangerous game. So firmly do I +believe this that I generally take the rifle from my shoulder +between each shot. Even aimed rapid fire is of no great value as +compared with better aimed slower fire. The first bullet delivers +to an animal's nervous system about all the shock it can absorb. +If the beast is not thereby knocked down and held down, +subsequent shots can accomplish that desirable result only by +reaching a vital spot or by tearing tissue. As an example of this +I might instance a waterbuck into which I saw my companion empty +five heavy 465 and double 500 bullets from cordite rifles before +it fell! Thus if the game gets to its feet after the first shock, +it is true that the hunter will often empty into it six or seven +more bullets without apparent result, unless he aims carefully +for a centrally vital point. It follows that therefore a second +shot aimed with enough care to land it in that point is worth a +lot more than a half dozen delivered in three or four seconds +with only the accuracy necessary to group decently at very short +range, even if all of them hit the beast. I am perfectly aware +that this view will probably be disputed; but it is the result of +considerable experience, close observation and real interest in +the game. The whole record of the Winchester was 56 hits out of +70 cartridges fired; representing 27 head of game. + +The 465 Holland & Holland double cordite rifle. This beautiful +weapon, built and balanced like a fine hammerless shotgun, was +fitted with open sights. It was of course essentially a close +range emergency gun, but was capable of accurate work at a +distance. I killed one buffalo dead with it, across a wide canyon, +with the 300-yard leaf up on the back sight. Its game list +however was limited to rhinoceroses, hippopotamuses, buffaloes +and crocodiles. The recoil in spite of its weight of twelve and +one half pounds, was tremendous; but unnoticeable when I was +shooting at any of these brutes. Its total record was 31 +cartridges fired with 29 hits representing 13 head of game. + +The conditions militating against marksmanship are often severe. +Hard work in the tropics is not the most steadying regime in the +world, and outside a man's nerves, he is often bothered by queer +lights, and the effects of the mirage that swirls from the +sun-heated plain. The ranges, too, are rather long. I took the +trouble to pace out about every kill, and find that antelope in the +plains averaged 245 yards; with a maximum of 638 yards, while +antelope in covered country averaged 148 yards, with a maximum of +311. + + + +APPENDIX IV. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA + +IN WHICH HE APPEARS AS DIFFERENT FROM THE ENGLISHMAN + +It is always interesting to play the other fellow's game his way, +and then, in light of experience, to see wherein our way and his +way modify each other. + +The above proposition here refers to camping. We do considerable +of it in our country, especially in our North and West. After we +have been at it for some time, we evolve a method of our own. The +basis of that method is to do without; to GO LIGHT. At first even +the best of us will carry too much plunder, but ten years of +philosophy and rainstorms, trails and trials, will bring us to an +irreducible minimum. A party of three will get along with two +pack horses, say; or, on a harder trip, each will carry the +necessities on his own back. To take just as little as is +consistent with comfort is to play the game skilfully. Any +article must pay in use for its transportation. + +With this ideal deeply ingrained by the test of experience, the +American camper is appalled by the caravan his British cousins +consider necessary for a trip into the African back country. His +said cousin has, perhaps, very kindly offered to have his outfit +ready for him when he arrives. He does arrive to find from one +hundred to one hundred and fifty men gathered as his personal +attendants. + +"Great Scot!" he cries, "I want to go camping; I don't want to +invade anybody's territory. Why the army?" + +He discovers that these are porters, to carry his effects. + +"What effects?" he demands, bewildered. As far as he knows, he +has two guns, some ammunition, and a black tin box, bought in +London, and half-filled with extra clothes, a few medicines, a +thermometer, and some little personal knick-knacks. He has been +wondering what else he is going to put in to keep things from +rattling about. Of course he expected besides these to take along +a little plain grub, and some blankets, and a frying pan and +kettle or so. + +The English friend has known several Americans, so he explains +patiently. + +"I know this seems foolish to you," he says, "but you must +remember you are under the equator and you must do things +differently here. As long as you keep fit you are safe; but if +you get run down a bit you'll go. You've got to do yourself well, +down here, rather better than you have to in any other climate. +You need all the comfort you can get; and you want to save +yourself all you can." + +This has a reasonable sound and the American does not yet know +the game. Recovering from his first shock, he begins to look +things over. There is a double tent, folding camp chair, folding +easy chair, folding table, wash basin, bath tub, cot, mosquito +curtains, clothes hangers; there are oil lanterns, oil carriers, +two loads of mysterious cooking utensils and cook camp stuff; +there is an open fly, which his friend explains is his dining +tent; and there are from a dozen to twenty boxes standing in a +row, each with its padlock. "I didn't go in for luxury," +apologizes the English friend. "Of course we can easily add +anything you want but I remember you wrote me that you wanted to +travel light." + +"What are those?" our American inquires, pointing to the locked +boxes. + +He learns that they are chop boxes, containing food and supplies. +At this he rises on his hind legs and paws the air. + +"Food!" he shrieks. "Why, man alive, I'm alone, and I am only +going to be out three months! I can carry all I'll ever eat in +three months in one of those boxes." + +But the Englishman patiently explains. You cannot live on "bacon +and beans" in this country, so to speak. You must do yourself +rather well, you know, to keep in condition. And you cannot pack +food in bags, it must be tinned. And then, of course, such things +as your sparklet siphons and lime juice require careful +packing-and your champagne. + +"Champagne," breathes the American in awestricken tones. + +"Exactly, dear boy, an absolute necessity. After a touch of sun +there's nothing picks you up better than a mouthful of fizz. It's +used as a medicine, not a drink, you understand." + +The American reflects again that this is the other fellow's game, +and that the other fellow has been playing it for some time, and +that he ought to know. But he cannot yet see why the one hundred +and fifty men. Again the Englishman explains. There is the +Headman to run the show. Correct: we need him. Then there are +four askaris. What are they? Native soldiers. No, you won't be +fighting anything; but they keep the men going, and act as sort +of sub-foremen in bossing the complicated work. Next is your +cook, and your own valet and that of your horse. Also your two +gunbearers. + +"Hold on!" cries our friend. "I have only two guns, and I'm going +to carry one myself." + +But this, he learns, is quite impossible. It is never done. It is +absolutely necessary, in this climate, to avoid all work. + +That makes how many? Ten already, and there seem to be three tent +loads, one bed load, one chair and table load, one lantern load, +two miscellaneous loads, two cook loads, one personal box, and +fifteen chop boxes-total twenty-six, plus the staff, as above, +thirty-six. Why all the rest of the army? + +Very simple: these thirty-six men have, according to regulation, +seven tents, and certain personal effects, and they must have +"potio" or a ration of one and a half pounds per diem. These +things must be carried by more men. + +"I see," murmurs the American, crushed, "and these more men have +more tents and more potio, which must also be carried. It's like +the House that Jack Built." + +So our American concludes still once again that the other fellow +knows his own game, and starts out. He learns he has what is +called a "modest safari"; and spares a fleeting wonder as to what +a really elaborate safari must be. The procession takes the +field. He soon sees the value of the four askaris-the necessity +of whom he has secretly doubted. Without their vigorous seconding +the headman would have a hard time indeed. Also, when he observes +the labour of tent-making, packing, washing, and general service +performed by his tent boy, he abandons the notion that that +individual could just as well take care of the horse as well, +especially as the horse has to have all his grass cut and brought +to him. At evening our friend has a hot bath, a long cool fizzly +drink of lime juice and soda; he puts on the clean clothes laid +out for him, assumes soft mosquito boots, and sits down to +dinner. This is served to him in courses, and on enamel ware. +Each course has its proper-sized plate and cutlery. He starts +with soup, goes down through tinned whitebait or other fish, an +entree, a roast, perhaps a curry, a sweet, and small coffee. He +is certainly being "done well," and he enjoys the comfort of it. + +There comes a time when he begins to wonder a little. It is all +very pleasant, of course, and perhaps very necessary; they all +tell him it is. But, after all, it is a little galling to the +average man to think that of him. Your Englishman doesn't mind that; +he enjoys being taken care of: but the sportsman of American +training likes to stand on his own feet as far as he is able and +conditions permit. Besides, it is expensive. Besides that, it is +a confounded nuisance, especially when potio gives out and more +must be sought, near or far. Then, if he is wise, he begins to do +a little figuring on his own account. + +My experience was very much as above. Three of us went out for +eleven weeks with what was considered a very "modest" safari +indeed. It comprised one hundred and eighteen men. My fifth and +last trip, also with two companions, was for three months. Our +personnel consisted, all told, forty men. + +In essentials the Englishman is absolutely right. One cannot camp +in Africa as one would at home. The experimenter would be dead in +a month. In his application of that principle, however, he seems +to the American point of view to overshoot. Let us examine his +proposition in terms of the essentials-food, clothing, shelter. +There is no doubt but that a man must keep in top condition as +far as possible; and that, to do so, he must have plenty of good +food. He can never do as we do on very hard trips at home: take a +little tea, sugar, coffee, flour, salt, oatmeal. But on the other +hand, he certainly does not need a five-course dinner every +night, nor a complete battery of cutlery, napery and table ware +to eat it from. Flour, sugar, oatmeal, tea and coffee, rice, +beans, onions, curry, dried fruits, a little bacon, and some +dehydrated vegetables will do him very well indeed-with what he +can shoot. These will pack in waterproof bags very comfortably. +In addition to feeding himself well, he finds he must not sleep +next to the ground, he must have a hot bath every day, but never +a cold one, and he must shelter himself with a double tent +against the sun. + +Those are the absolute necessities of the climate. In other +words, if he carries a double tent, a cot, a folding bath; and +gives a little attention to a properly balanced food supply, he +has met the situation. + +If, in addition, he takes canned goods, soda siphons, lime juice, +easy chairs and all the rest of the paraphernalia, he is merely +using a basic principle as an excuse to include sheer luxuries. +In further extenuation of this he is apt to argue that porters +are cheap, and that it costs but little more to carry these extra +comforts. Against this argument, of course, I have nothing to +say. It is the inalienable right of every man to carry all the +luxuries he wants. My point is that the average American +sportsman does not want them, and only takes them because he is +overpersuaded that these things are not luxuries, but +necessities. For, mark you, he could take the same things into +the Sierras or the North-by paying; but he doesn't. + +I repeat, it is the inalienable right of any man to travel as +luxuriously as he pleases. But by the same token it is not his +right to pretend that luxuries are necessities. That is to put +himself into the same category with the man who always finds some +other excuse for taking a drink than the simple one that he wants +it. + +The Englishman's point of view is that he objects to "pigging +it," as he says. "Pigging it" means changing your home habits in +any way. If you have been accustomed to eating your sardines +after a meal, and somebody offers them to you first, that is +"pigging it." In other words, as nearly as I can make out, +"pigging it" does not so much mean doing things in an inadequate +fashion as DOING THEM DIFFERENTLY. Therefore, the Englishman in +the field likes to approximate as closely as may be his life in +town, even if it takes one hundred and fifty men to do it. Which +reduces the "pigging it" argument to an attempt at condemnation +by calling names. + +The American temperament, on the contrary, being more +experimental and independent, prefers to build anew upon its +essentials. Where the Englishman covers the situation +blanket-wise with his old institutions, the American prefers to +construct new institutions on the necessities of the case. He +objects strongly to being taken care of too completely. He +objects strongly to losing the keen enjoyment of overcoming +difficulties and enduring hardships. The Englishman by habit and +training has no such objections. He likes to be taken care of, +financially, personally, and everlastingly. That is his ideal of +life. If he can be taken care of better by employing three +hundred porters and packing eight tin trunks of personal +effects-as I have seen it done-he will so employ and take. That +is all right: he likes it. + +But the American does not like it. A good deal of the fun for him +is in going light, in matching himself against his environment. +It is no fun to him to carry his complete little civilization +along with him, laboriously. If he must have cotton wool, let it +be as little cotton wool as possible. He likes to be comfortable; +but he likes to be comfortable with the minimum of means. +Striking just the proper balance somehow adds to his interest in +the game. And how he DOES object to that ever-recurring +thought-that he is such a helpless mollusc that it requires a +small regiment to get him safely around the country! + +Both means are perfectly legitimate, of course; and neither view +is open to criticism. All either man is justified in saying is +that he, personally, wouldn't get much fun out of doing it the +other way. As a matter of fact, human nature generally goes +beyond its justifications and is prone to criticise. The +Englishman waxes a trifle caustic on the subject of "pigging it"; +and the American indulges in more than a bit of sarcasm on the +subject of "being led about Africa like a dog on a string." + +By some such roundabout mental process as the above the American +comes to the conclusion that he need not necessarily adopt the +other fellow's method of playing this game. His own method needs +modification, but it will do. He ventures to leave out the tables +and easy chair, takes a camp stool and eats off a chop box. To +the best of his belief his health does not suffer from this. He +gets on with a camper's allowance of plate, cup and cutlery, and +so cuts out a load and a half of assorted kitchen utensils and +table ware. He even does without a tablecloth and napkins! He +discards the lime juice and siphons, and purchases a canvas +evaporation bag to cool the water. He fires one gunbearer, and +undertakes the formidable physical feat of carrying one of his +rifles himself. And, above all, he modifies that grub list. The +purchase of waterproof bags gets rid of a lot of tin: the staple +groceries do quite as well as London fancy stuff. Golden syrup +takes the place of all the miscellaneous jams, marmalades and +other sweets. The canned goods go by the board. He lays in a +stock of dried fruit. At the end, he is possessed of a grub list +but little different from that of his Rocky Mountain trips. Some +few items he has cut down; and some he has substituted; but bulk +and weight are the same. For his three months' trip he has four +or five chop boxes all told. + +And then suddenly he finds that thus he has made a reduction all +along the line. Tent load, two men; grub and kitchen, five men; +personal, one man; bed, one man; miscellaneous, one or two. There +is now no need for headmen and askaris to handle this little lot. +Twenty more to carry food for the men-he is off with a quarter +of the number of his first "modest safari." + +You who are sportsmen and are not going to Africa, as is the case +with most, will perhaps read this, because we are always +interested in how the other fellow does it. To the few who are +intending an exploration of the dark continent this concentration +of a year's experience may be valuable. Remember to sleep off the +ground, not to starve yourself, to protect yourself from the sun, +to let negroes do all hard work but marching and hunting. Do +these things your own way, using your common-sense on how to get +at it. You'll be all right. + +That, I conceive, covers the case. The remainder of your +equipment has to do with camp affairs, and merely needs listing. +The question here is not of the sort to get, but of what to take. +The tents, cooking affairs, etc., are well adapted to the +country. In selecting your tent, however, you will do very well +to pick out one whose veranda fly reaches fairly to the ground, +instead of stopping halfway. + +1 tent and ground sheet +1 folding cot and cork mattress, +1 pillow, 3 single blankets +1 combined folding bath and ashstand ("X" brand) +1 camp stool +3 folding candle lanterns +1 gallon turpentine +3 lbs. alum +1 river rope +Sail needles and twine +3 pangas (native tools for chopping and digging) +Cook outfit (select these yourself, and cut out the extras) +2 axes (small) +Plenty laundry soap +Evaporation bag +2 pails +10 yards cotton cloth ("Mericani") + +These things, your food, your porters' outfits and what trade +goods you may need are quite sufficient. You will have all you +want, and not too much. If you take care of yourself, you ought +to keep in good health. Your small outfit permits greater +mobility than does that of the English cousin, infinitely less +nuisance and expense. Furthermore, you feel that once more you +are "next to things," instead of "being led about Africa like a +dog on a string." + + + +APPENDIX V. THE AMERICAN IN AFRICA + +WHAT HE SHOULD TAKE + +Before going to Africa I read as many books as I could get hold +of on the subject, some of them by Americans. In every case the +authors have given a chapter detailing the necessary outfit. +Invariably they have followed the Englishman's ideas almost +absolutely. Nobody has ventured to modify those ideas in any +essential manner. Some have deprecatingly ventured to remark that +it is as well to leave out the tinned carfare-if you do not like +carfare; but that is as far as they care to go. The lists are +those of the firms who make a business of equipping caravans. The +heads of such firms are generally old African travellers. They +furnish the equipment their customers demand; and as English +sportsmen generally all demand the same thing, the firms end by +issuing a printed list of essentials for shooting parties in +Africa, including carfare. Travellers follow the lists blindly, +and later copy them verbatim into their books. Not one has +thought to empty out the whole bag of tricks, to examine them in +the light of reason, and to pick out what a man of American +habits, as contrasted to one of English habits, would like to +have. This cannot be done a priori; it requires the test of +experience to determine how to meet, in our own way, the unusual +demands of climate and conditions. + +And please note, when the heads of these equipment firms, these +old African travellers, take the field for themselves, they pay +no attention whatever to their own printed lists of "essentials." + +Now, premising that the English sportsman has, by many years' +experience, worked out just what he likes to take into the field; +and assuring you solemnly that his ideas are not in the least the +ideas of American sportsman, let us see if we cannot do something +for ourselves. + +At present the American has either to take over in toto the +English idea, which is not adapted to him, and is-TO HIM-a +nuisance, or to go it blind, without experience except that +acquired in a temperate climate, which is dangerous. I am not +going to copy out the English list again, even for comparison. I +have not the space; and if curious enough, you can find it in any +book on modern African travel. Of course I realize well that few +Americans go to Africa; but I also realize well that the +sportsman is a crank, a wild and eager enthusiast over items of +equipment anywhere. He-and I am thinking emphatically of +him-would avidly devour the details of the proper outfit for the +gentle art of hunting the totally extinct whiffenpoof. + +Let us begin, first of all, with: + +Personal Equipment Clothes. On the top of your head you must have +a sun helmet. Get it of cork, not of pith. The latter has a habit +of melting unobtrusively about your ears when it rains. A helmet +in brush is the next noisiest thing to a circus band, so it is +always well to have, also, a double terai. This is not something +to eat. It is a wide felt hat, and then another wide felt hat on +top of that. The vertical-rays-of-the-tropical-sun (pronounced +as one word to save time after you have heard and said it a +thousand times) are supposed to get tangled and lost somewhere +between the two hats. It is not, however, a good contraption to +go in all day when the sun is strong. + +As underwear you want the lightest Jaeger wool. Doesn't sound +well for tropics, but it is an essential. You will sweat enough +anyway, even if you get down to a brass wire costume like the +natives. It is when you stop in the shade, or the breeze, or the +dusk of evening, that the trouble comes. A chill means trouble, +SURE. Two extra suits are all you want. There is no earthly sense +in bringing more. Your tent boy washes them out whenever he can +lay hands on them-it is one of his harmless manias. + +Your shirt should be of the thinnest brown flannel. Leather the +shoulders, and part way down the upper arm, with chamois. This is +to protect your precious garment against the thorns when you dive +through them. On the back you have buttons sewed wherewith to +attach a spine pad. Before I went to Africa I searched eagerly +for information or illustration of a spine pad. I guessed what it +must be for, and to an extent what it must be like, but all +writers maintained a conservative reticence as to the thing +itself. Here is the first authorized description. A spine pad is +a quilted affair in consistency like the things you are supposed +to lift hot flat-irons with. On the outside it is brown flannel, +like the shirt; on the inside it is a gaudy orange colour. The +latter is not for aesthetic effect, but to intercept actinic +rays. It is eight or ten inches wide, is shaped to button close +up under your collar, and extends halfway down your back. In +addition it is well to wear a silk handkerchief around the neck; +as the spine and back of the head seem to be the most vulnerable +to the sun. + +For breeches, suit yourself as to material. It will have to be +very tough, and of fast colour. The best cut is the +"semi-riding," loose at the knees, which should be well faced +with soft leather, both for crawling, and to save the cloth in +grass and low brush. One pair ought to last four months, roughly +speaking. You will find a thin pair of ordinary khaki trousers +very comfortable as a change for wear about camp. In passing I +would call your attention to "shorts." Shorts are loose, bobbed +off khaki breeches, like knee drawers. With them are worn puttees +or leather leggings, and low boots. The knees are bare. They are +much affected by young Englishmen. I observed them carefully at +every opportunity, and my private opinion is that man has rarely +managed to invent as idiotically unfitted a contraption for the +purpose in hand. In a country teeming with poisonous insects, +ticks, fever-bearing mosquitoes; in a country where vegetation is +unusually well armed with thorns, spines and hooks, mostly +poisonous; in a country where, oftener than in any other a man is +called upon to get down on his hands and knees and crawl a few +assorted abrading miles, it would seem an obvious necessity to +protect one's bare skin as much as possible. The only reason +given for these astonishing garments is that they are cooler and +freer to walk in. That I can believe. But they allow ticks and +other insects to crawl up, mosquitoes to bite, thorns to tear, +and assorted troubles to enter. And I can vouch by experience +that ordinary breeches are not uncomfortably hot or tight. +Indeed, one does not get especially hot in the legs anyway. I +noticed that none of the old-time hunters like Cuninghame or Judd +wore shorts. The real reason is not that they are cool, but that +they are picturesque. Common belief to the contrary, your average +practical, matter-of-fact Englishman loves to dress up. I knew +one engaged in farming-picturesque farming-in our own West, who +used to appear at afternoon tea in a clean suit of blue overalls! +It is a harmless amusement. Our own youths do it, also, +substituting chaps for shorts, perhaps. I am not criticising the +spirit in them; but merely trying to keep mistaken shorts off +you. + +For leg gear I found that nothing could beat our American +combination of high-laced boots and heavy knit socks. Leather +leggings are noisy, and the rolled puttees hot and binding. Have +your boots ten or twelve inches high, with a flap to buckle over +the tie of the laces, with soles of the mercury-impregnated +leather called "elk hide," and with small Hungarian hobs. Your +tent boy will grease these every day with "dubbin," of which you +want a good supply. It is not my intention to offer free +advertisements generally, but I wore one pair of boots all the +time I was in Africa, through wet, heat, and long, long walking. +They were in good condition when I gave them away finally, and +had not started a stitch. They were made by that excellent +craftsman, A. A. Cutter, of Eau Claire, Wis., and he deserves and +is entirely welcome to this puff. Needless to remark, I have +received no especial favours from Mr. Cutter. + +Six pairs of woollen socks, knit by hand, if possible-will be +enough. For evening, when you come in, I know nothing better than +a pair of very high moosehide moccasins. They should, however, be +provided with thin soles against the stray thorn, and should +reach well above the ankle by way of defence against the fever +mosquito. That festive insect carries on a surreptitious +guerrilla warfare low down. The English "mosquito boot" is simply +an affair like a riding boot, made of suede leather, with thin +soles. It is most comfortable. My objection is that it is +unsubstantial and goes to pieces in a very brief time even under +ordinary evening wear about camp. + +You will also want a coat. In American camping I have always +maintained the coat is a useless garment. There one does his own +work to a large extent. When at work or travel the coat is in the +way. When in camp the sweater or buckskin shirt is handier, and +more easily carried. In Africa, however, where the other fellow +does most of the work, a coat is often very handy. Do not make +the mistake of getting an unlined light-weight garment. When you +want it at all, you want it warm and substantial. Stick on all +the pockets possible, and have them button securely. + +For wet weather there is nothing to equal a long and voluminous +cape. Straps crossing the chest and around the waist permit one +to throw it off the shoulders to shoot. It covers the hands, the +rifle-most of the little horses or mules one gets out there. +One can sleep in or on it, and it is a most effective garment +against heavy winds. One suit of pajamas is enough, considering +your tent boy's commendable mania for laundry work. Add +handkerchiefs and you are fixed. + +You will wear most of the above, and put what remains in your +"officer's box." This is a thin steel, air-tight affair with a +wooden bottom, and is the ticket for African work. + +Sporting. Pick out your guns to suit yourself. You want a light +one and a heavy one. + +When I came to send out my ammunition, I was forced again to take +the other fellow's experience. I was told by everybody that I +should bring plenty, that it was better to have too much than too +little, etc. I rather thought so myself, and accordingly shipped +a trifle over 1,500 rounds of small bore cartridges. +Unfortunately, I never got into the field with any of my numerous +advisers on this point, so cannot state their methods from +first-hand information. Inductive reasoning leads me to believe +that they consider it unsportsmanlike to shoot at a standing +animal at all, or at one running nearer than 250 yards. +Furthermore, it is etiquette to continue firing until the last +cloud of dust has died down on the distant horizon. Only thus can +I conceive of getting rid of that amount of ammunition. In eight +months of steady shooting, for example-shooting for trophies, as +well as to feed a safari of fluctuating numbers, counting +jackals, marabout and such small trash-I got away with +395 rounds of small bore ammunition and about 100 of large. This +accounted for 225 kills. That should give one an idea. Figure out +how many animals you are likely to want for ANY purpose, multiply +by three, and bring that many cartridges. + +To carry these cartridges I should adopt the English system of a +stout leather belt on which you slip various sized pockets and +loops to suit the occasion. Each unit has loops for ten +cartridges. You rarely want more than that; and if you do, your +gunbearer is supplied. In addition to the loops, you have leather +pockets to carry your watch; your money, your matches and +tobacco, your compass-anything you please. They are handy and +safe. The tropical climate is too "sticky" to get much comfort, +or anything else, out of ordinary pockets. + +In addition, you supply your gunbearer with a cartridge belt, a +leather or canvas carrying bag, water bottle for him and for +yourself, a sheath knife and a whetstone. In the bag are your +camera, tape line, the whetstone, field cleaners and lunch. You +personally carry your field glasses, sun glasses, a knife, +compass, matches, police whistle and notebook. The field glasses +should not be more than six power; and if possible you should get +the sort with detachable prisms. The prisms are apt to cloud in a +tropical climate, and the non-detachable sort are almost +impossible for a layman to clean. Hang these glasses around your +neck by a strap only just long enough to permit you to raise them +to your eyes. The best notebook is the "loose-leaf" sort. By +means of this you can keep always a fresh leaf on top; and at +night can transfer your day's notes to safe keeping in your tin +box. The sun glasses should not be smoked or dark-you can do +nothing with them-but of the new amberol, the sort that excludes +the ultra-violet rays, but otherwise makes the world brighter and +gayer. Spectacle frames of non-corrosive white metal, not steel, +are the proper sort. + +To clean your guns you must supply plenty of oil, and then some +more. The East African gunbearer has a quite proper and +gratifying, but most astonishing horror for a suspicion of rust; +and to use oil any faster he would have to drink it. + +Other Equipment. All this has taken much time to tell about, it +has not done much toward filling up that tin box. Dump in your +toilet effects and a bath towel, two or three scalpels for +taxidermy, a ball of string, some safety-pins, a small tool kit, +sewing materials, a flask of brandy, kodak films packed in tin, a +boxed thermometer, an aneroid (if you are curious as to +elevations), journal, tags for labelling trophies, a few yards of +gun cloth, and the medicine kit. + +The latter divides into two classes: for your men and for +yourself. The men will suffer from certain well defined troubles: +"tumbo," or overeating; diarrhaea, bronchial colds, fever and +various small injuries. For "tumbo" you want a liberal supply of +Epsom's salts; for diarrhaea you need chlorodyne; any good +expectorant for the colds; quinine for the fever; permanganate +and plenty of bandages for the injuries. With this lot you can do +wonders. For yourself you need, or may need, in addition, a more +elaborate lot: Laxative, quinine, phenacetin, bismuth and soda, +bromide of ammonium, morphia, camphor-ice, and asperin. A +clinical thermometer for whites and one for blacks should be +included. A tin of malted milk is not a bad thing to take as an +emergency ration after fever. + +By this time your tin box is fairly well provided. You may turn +to general supplies. + + + + + +End of The Project Gutenberg Etext of The Land of Footprints, by White + diff --git a/old/old/fprnt10.zip b/old/old/fprnt10.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..35fe97f --- /dev/null +++ b/old/old/fprnt10.zip |