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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/13248-0.txt b/13248-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f82ef4b --- /dev/null +++ b/13248-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6587 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13248 *** + +This eBook was produced by Sue Asscher + + + + + + + +MCKINLAY'S + +JOURNAL OF EXPLORATION + +IN THE + +INTERIOR OF AUSTRALIA. + +(BURKE RELIEF EXPEDITION.) + + +WITH THREE MAPS. + + + + +MELBOURNE: +F.F. BAILLIERE, +PUBLISHER IN ORDINARY TO THE VICTORIAN GOVERNMENT, +AND IMPORTER OF MEDICAL AND SCIENTIFIC WORKS. +LONDON. NEW YORK. PARIS. MADRID. + +COLONIAL AGENTS: +SYDNEY, A. CUBITT; ADELAIDE, W.C. RIGBY; TASMANIA, WALCH AND SONS. + +* * * + + +MCKINLAY'S EXPLORATIONS. + + +DIARY OF MR. J. MCKINLAY, + +LEADER OF THE BURKE RELIEF EXPEDITION: + +BEING JOURNAL OF EXPLORATIONS IN THE INTERIOR OF AUSTRALIA, +TOGETHER WITH CHART. + + +TO THE HONOURABLE THE CHIEF COMMISSIONER OF CROWN LANDS. + +Depot Camp, Cudye-cudyena, or Buchanan Lake, + +October 26, 1861. + +Sir, + +The following is a brief resume of the proceedings of the Burke Relief +Expedition since the date of my departure from Adelaide. + +Started from Adelaide with the camels, etc., on 16th August, 1861, and +overtook the remnant of the party, horses, cart, etc. etc., nothing of +any particular note occurring on the journey to Blanchewater (Mr. Baker's +station) more than ordinary on such journeys, save the worthlessness of +the cart and consequent detention thereon. A few days before arriving at +said station, I was informed that the natives had brought in a report of +some white men and camels being seen at some inland water by them, or +rather others of Pando or Lake Hope tribe, but did not give the report +much credit knowing how easy a person may be misled from the statement he +hears from natives, and the probability of putting a wrong construction +upon what he hears, more particularly from a tribe of people who really +do not understand what you say to them, having hardly any English, but +intend making every inquiry and, if at all satisfactory on the point, +will make a push for their relief. + +BLANCHEWATER. + +Got all the stores forwarded ex Lubra, and dray repacked, and started on +Tuesday, September 24; went about eleven miles, camels and cart camped at +small creek, the horses camped further on, having mistaken their +instructions; poor country. + +Wednesday, September 25. + +Tooncutchan, Mr. Baker's outstation--sixteen miles; met Mr. Elder and Mr. +Giles there, and Mr. Stuckey arrived in the afternoon; poor country. + +Thursday, September 26. + +Manawaukaninna, Messrs. Stuckey's outstation, unoccupied; thirteen and a +half miles. Mr. Stuckey and I went to Lake Torrens about three miles +distant to look out for a good crossing-place for the cart, which we did, +and returned to hut. Three of the horses had a narrow escape from +drowning before starting this morning. The country was a little better +today; filled all our water vessels and bags for the dry country between +this and Pando or Lake Hope. + +Friday, September 27. + +Started early; got all safe across the Lake Torrens, no water being at +our crossing nor in view. Horses and camels went on to camp about +twenty-five miles distant and leave what water was to spare for the dray +and my horse, and proceed on the next day to Lake Pando, which I found +afterwards they did, then bearing from 2 degrees 30 minutes to 3 degrees; +cart and sheep came twelve and a half miles on same course; at three +miles crossed Lake Torrens, then over a fearful jumble of broken +sandhills quite unfit to be described, occasionally passing a small flat +trending west-north-west and east-south-east; at eleven and a half miles +passed on our left a small salt lake, dry, half a mile long; watched +bullocks and sheep. + +Saturday, September 28. + +Started early, came ten miles similar country; did not get to within two +miles of where the horses and camels camped on 27th. I rode on and found +the water there, and very welcome it was. The bullocks refused to pull +and several lay down in the dray and a couple of them charged right and +left; unyoked them and came on with them to where the water was left, +from which place I meant to start the two blacks, Peter and Sambo, into +the lake with them; gave the blacks each a canteen full of water, also +Jack, the native shepherd, with instructions to keep on to the lake on +the tracks of the advance party, intending to ride over to the lake +myself to water my horse, leaving Palmer, and Frank (a native) with the +cart and all the water to remain till the bullocks returned for the cart. +Started and at one and a half miles found the bullocks at a standstill +and the sheep in sight, the bullocks refusing to be driven and charging +the blacks. Just as I came up by some mischance the coupling of one of +the charging bullocks gave way, and in an instant poor Peter was tossed +up in the air by Bawley and as he descended was caught up again and +tossed about on the ground; invariably the brute caught his horns against +the large canteen and saved the poor fellow's life. I was obliged to +leave the black then aft with the cart, and with Sambo started on for +water; travelled and spelled during the whole night and got to the lake +early Sunday 29th, party all right; lots of blacks, apparently peaceably +inclined. Found that Mr. Hodgkinson and Mr. Middleton had that morning +started for the dray with the camels with a supply of water. Mr. Elder +and Mr. Stuckey went to look at the country and returned in the evening; +the sandhills and flats alternately bore north-north-west and +south-south-east from the camel and horses camp of 27th. + +Monday, September 30. + +Mr. Elder, Mr. Stuckey, and Mr. Giles started; wrote a pencil memo to +town. Since we left last station weather very hot and disagreeable in the +extreme for the time of year. Anxious about the men and camels; went +westward some distance to find traces of the camels, thinking it probable +that they might have strayed from them; very hot, north wind, no traces, +nor did they return. + +Tuesday, October 1. + +Exceedingly anxious about the missing party; started out to the cart, +found missing party had arrived there all safe on 29th, and started early +on the 30th on their return. Immediately started back to lake, horse +knocked up; obliged to camp with him and arrived at camp on Wednesday 2nd +at 6 a.m., missing party not returned: thought I would never see them +again, and an awful blow it would be to me, in the first place the loss +of my two best men and the four camels I had so much reliance in. At once +on arrival sent for three horses and took Bell and Jack (the native) with +me to endeavour to get traces of them or the camels; proceeded east to +the end of the lake and round the eastern end northward but no traces +whatever; returned to camp with the intention of proceeding westward in +search with Jack, and to my infinite pleasure found they, with the +camels, had some short time before returned in a most exhausted state, +their mouths, tongues, and throats in a most pitiable condition, and +perfectly worn out; had they been out the remainder of that day without +success they (the men) must have perished. From their own account it +appears they, to lighten the cart, packed on the camels as much of the +light sundries as they could, and on their return they by some ill luck +got off the track and got confused, and after many efforts and leaving +part of their load they abandoned themselves to the guidance of the +camels who, by their instinct I suppose, brought them safe to a long lake +west of the one we were encamped at, some five or seven miles off. On +their arrival on the water they were met by a number of natives who +kindly got them water and fish to supply their wants, and after spelling +a time got some of them as guides to the camp on Pando, where they were +rewarded by presents of a tomahawk and blanket, etc. Started Bell out to +the cart with the bullocks and blackfellows, Sambo and Jack, leading a +packhorse with supplies of damper and water. + +Thursday, October 3. + +Invalids recovering; Hodgkinson does not seem to have suffered as much as +Middleton. + +Friday, October 4. + +Hodgkinson, with Davis and Jack, two freshest camels (Coppin and Siva) +and two horses and plenty of water and food, started to run their tracks +for the loading they left from the camels. The cart arrived all safe +about midday. The bullock, Bawley, never made his appearance, and I +suppose has gone to find his way back to Mr. Jacob's from whence he was +purchased. Cool westerly breeze. + +Saturday, October 5. + +Hodgkinson and party arrived all safe and were successful in finding the +left articles. Middleton very slowly recovering. + +Sunday, October 6, and Monday, October 7. + +Spelling the camels and bullocks; taking off the shoes of the horses that +were shod in town, having stayed on remarkably well. The country soft; +not likely to shoe them for a time; appear in good condition; bullocks +tender-necked. Rather a strange circumstance occurred while staying here. +A pelican, in an attempt to swallow a perch about a foot long by about +five inches in diameter or twelve inches in circumference, was choked +after getting it halfway down his throat, and found in the morning quite +fresh and the tail of the fish out of its mouth. A considerable quantity +of clover or trefoil on this lake; and at the eastern end on the flooded +flat, grass but not abundant. The country in this part does not appear to +have been visited by any rain for very many months; indeed years must +have passed since any quantity has fallen in this sandy region; the +bottoms of the clay-pans are nearly as hard as bricks. A considerable +quantity of saltbush of various kinds around the lake and on the flats, +with some polygonum on the flooded flats; innumerable pigeons. + +Tuesday, October 8. + +Started from Pando Lake Camp at twenty minutes to 9 a.m., wind west and +cool, on a bearing of 285 degrees, two miles north-north-west, to +junction of Pando Creek till 10.37; in all about four and a quarter +miles. Creek is about 250 yards to 300 broad; on the south-west bank of +lake there appears to be layers of salty substance. Tipandranara Lake +bears from junction 294 degrees; our camp of this morning 117 degrees; +south-eastern portion of lake 106 degrees; apparent course of Pando Creek +340 degrees. Within two miles the creek contracts to less than 100 yards, +and at camp about six feet. All arrived at 4.10 p.m. on small Lake +Uppadae or Camel Lake; total distance fifteen miles. Travelled over a +miserable country, with saltbush of various description, and samphire, +and small stones occasionally. Upper entrance to lake bears 12 degrees +from outlet; length about one and a quarter miles by an average of +three-quarters of a mile, surrounded by sandhills and very little timber +round it, and that little of the most miserable description of box; a +considerable quantity of rushes and a little grass round the margin, and +lots of waterfowl. For the latter half of the day's travel we were +pursuing a course from North 20 degrees West to North 10 degrees West, +and as much as north at last. + +Wednesday, October 9. + +Moved round western side of lake for one and a half miles; then bearing +20 degrees, at one and a half miles further struck the creek, now dry; +then 1 degree 30 minutes about three-quarters of a mile; on a bearing of +350 degrees, half a mile distant a creek comes in from the +east--evidently the same creek that leaves the main creek about one and a +quarter miles from this same course--forming a circuit as an anabranch, +from west to east one mile; then a bearing of 339 degrees for three and a +half miles. Found I had mistaken top of a dry lake for creek; changed +course to 145 degrees; three miles. Creek now alongside; general course +20 degrees; went that course two miles and camped at a long deep +waterhole. Creek dry in a number of places. I forgot to say that the day +we came to Lake Camel, the two natives, Peter and Sambo, absconded, after +getting shirts, etc. Those were the fellows that were to guide us and act +as interpreters with the natives concerning the white man reported +before, and carrying off with them a new canteen and strap, which we will +much want yet. + +Thursday, October 10. + +Started at 7.25; crossed creek at 9.30, bearing 20 degrees to North; +recrossed creek ten minutes past 10; same course; then North 40 degrees +East till twenty minutes to one; then crossed at the junction of two +creeks, apparently insignificant, and went east one mile to main creek; +then northward five miles. Scoured great part of the country ahead and +could find no water; getting late, and the day very heavy for the +bullocks; determined to get them to water; retreated in a course South 20 +degrees West about four miles, to a small pool of water in the creek that +I crossed at midday, and camped. + +Friday, October 11. + +Started with the camels and Mr. Middleton, and a native named Bulingani, +provisions and water, to go to the relief of the whites said to be in the +interior, but at the same time with the intention of returning to camp if +unsuccessful in finding a good camp for the animals. On a bearing of 18 +degrees, at twenty-two miles, arrived at Lake Perigundi, a semicircular +lake from three to four miles in length by one and three-quarter miles +broad. The water not very good; the natives even dig round in the clay a +short distance from the lake for water for their use. Appear friendly, +and we saw about 200 of them--more rather than under that number, and +looking remarkably healthy. Camped, surrounded by them on all sides +except the lake side about 300 yards off. One of the camels got bogged +and narrowly escaped. We kept watch and watch during the night, sending +the native who was with us to camp with the blacks, who gave us some +fish. + +Saturday, October 12. + +Up early and returned to camp. Found it deserted in consequence of +instructions given to Mr. Hodgkinson previous to departure--that he was +to examine the creek southward; and in the event of his finding good feed +and water (which at the camp were both indifferent) to remove the camp at +once, which he found, and consequently removed, leaving me a memo at an +appointed place of his distance and direction, which was about one and a +half miles south and west. Two of the working bullocks got off during my +absence, and before they were overtaken by the blackfellow (Frank) on +horseback, they had got down south as far as Lake Hope; so he reported on +arrival. + +Sunday, October 13. + +Today I started Palmer and Jack on horseback to look after Frank and the +bullocks, when they met with the bullocks coming back on their tracks; +preparing for a start tomorrow, carrying a supply of water; name of our +present camp, a fine long sheet of water, Wankadunnie; bears 220 degrees +from the camp retreated from. + +Monday, October 14. + +Started with bullock-dray at 6.30 on a bearing of 18 degrees; after the +first nine and a half miles travelled over undulating country of sand, +dry flats, and flooded ground. From the top of the highest sandhill at +that distance the whole country, particularly to the eastward, is one +mass of flooded timbered flats and subject to awful inundations; at those +times it must be quite impracticable--the main creek (apparently) upon +our right varying from one or two and a half miles in width, with patches +of young trees across its bed and sides. If this country had permanent +water and rain occasionally it would do well for stock of any +kind--having a fair sprinkling of grass compared with anything of late +seen; and at fourteen miles on a bearing of 18 degrees came to, and +crossed at an angle, the bed of a small dry lake (with lots of fine +grass) or watercourse half a mile wide. When rain has fallen on this +country it is difficult to say; most of the herbs and grass and shrubs as +dry as tinder and will ignite at once--but is much more open and fit for +pasture. At sixteen miles on same bearing crossed the bed of salt lake, +now dry and of no great extent, running north and south in an extensive +flat; spelled and had a pot of tea. Then on a bearing of 357 degrees for +nine and a half miles to camp on west side of Siva Lake, or Perigundi +Lake; found it exceedingly boggy; and what I supposed was clover, as seen +in the distance at my former visit, was nothing but young samphire; +little or no grass; watered the horses out of a canvas by buckets; whole +distance twenty-five and a half miles; all arrived at about 7 p.m. + +Tuesday, October 15. + +Anxious to get off to the place reported by the natives as the abode of +the white man, or men; and finding this lake won't suit as a depot till +my return, on account of its boggy nature and scarcity of feed, I started +today to endeavour to find a place suitable for that purpose, and +travelled over alternate heavy and high sandhills and flooded wooded +polygonum flats with a few grassy patches. At eleven miles on a bearing +of about 83 1/2 degrees came to a lake, Cudye-cudyena; plenty of grass +and clover but the water all but dried up, a few inches only being around +its margin; all the centre and south end and side being a mudbank--but +thought it would do by digging. On my way back came on a creek with +sufficient water and grass, though dry, to suit the purpose, at two +miles, and pushed on to camp. A strange circumstance occurred this +evening, showing isolated instances of gratitude and honesty of the +natives. In the evening after my return a number of natives were near the +camp; amongst them, just as they were about to depart, I observed an +elderly man and his son, a boy of eight to ten years who appeared to be +an invalid and was about to be carried off by the father. I stopped him +and, as I was at supper, gave the youth some bread and meat and tea; when +they all took their leave. About the end of the first watch (which was +regularly kept) I was awake and heard the person on watch, Middleton, +speaking, evidently to a native who, to my astonishment as well as to +Middleton's, ventured up to the camp alone at night; and what would the +reader suppose his errand was? It was to bring back our axe that one of +his tribe had purloined unseen from the camp during the afternoon. On +delivery of said article he at once took his leave, promising to come in +the morning. + +Wednesday, October 16. + +In the morning a few of the natives approached the camp, but stood off at +a respectable distance, not sure how they were to be dealt with for their +dishonesty, till by and bye the old man with a few others came up; and +gradually they that stood aloof came up also. Amongst them were women and +children to whom I made various little presents of beads and fishhooks, +with which they seemed pleased. To the old man for his honesty I gave a +tomahawk with which he appeared highly pleased--his name was Mootielina; +the thief I could not find out, or would have given him his deserts +likewise. They did not muster very strong this morning, only about 100; +but numbers of others were visible all round the lake at the different +camps. They all appeared very civil, whether from fear or naturally I +could not guess. Started bearing 40 degrees, passing north-west arm of +lake three-quarters of a mile; then a bearing of 100 degrees. At +three-quarters of a mile cleared the timber that surrounds the water-mark +of lake; then began to ascend the sandhills which were very soft, high +and steep, for about half a mile or little more, to the highest of them +on same course. Changed course to 85 degrees, descending the various +sandhills for about a mile; then alternate flooded flats with timber +(box) and polygonum, and sandhills, till arrived at a water close by my +course home yesterday, and within three-quarters of a mile of where I +intended to fix the camp as depot; and which will suit the purpose very +well, having sufficient water and abundance of grass on a large flooded +flat immediately east of, and running north and south. Distance travelled +on last course six and a half miles, total distance eight and a half +miles to Careri Creek, which seems to flow from the west of north, or +nearly north and south; but name of waterhole is Wantula Depot. + +Thursday, October 17. + +At depot making arrangements for a start; out in search of the water the +whites are supposed to be at. I will take with me Mr. Hodgkinson, +Middleton, and a native of this country, Bulingani (who seems to say he +knows something of the whites) four camels, three horses, one hundred and +sixty pounds of flour, thirty-two pounds of sugar, four pounds of tea, +eleven pounds of bacon, and some little necessary, etc., for persons +likely to be in a weak state. Leave Bell in charge of the arrangements of +the camp, Davies in charge of the stores. About twenty natives are +encamped within pistol shot; but have made a fold for the sheep and put +everything in such a shape that I may find things all right on my return. +Opened the sausages and found them all less or more damaged, one tin in +fact as nearly rotten as possible, which have to be thrown away; the +others are now drying in the sun in the hopes we may be able to use them. +We would have been in a sad fix without the sheep. + +Friday, October 18. + +At 8 a.m. started; crossed well-grassed flooded polygonum flats or plains +for an hour, crossing Kiradinte in the Careri Creek; then left the creek +on the left and passed over a succession of sand ridges. At 9.15 arrived +at Lake Cudye-cudyena at about nine miles. It was quite a treat, +abundance of good water, and any quantity of grass of various kinds, and +plenty of clover. It bears 345 degrees, is about six miles long, and +fully half a mile wide, well timbered. On a bearing from this southern +end of lake (now called Lake Buchanan after Mr. Buchanan of Anlaby, from +whom the whole party experienced the utmost kindness) Lake Bulpaner, now +all but dry (and what was mistaken by me the other day, when in search of +a good depot, for this lake--very dissimilar indeed) bears 158 degrees, +distant about two miles along almost a valley. Saw some of the natives on +the way here, and sent Mr. Hodgkinson and Bulingani back for one of them +to forward a letter to Camp Depot to desire them to move on to this +place--so much more desirable for a depot than where they now are. Turned +out the animals to await their return. In the meantime three lubras +arrived on the opposite side of the lake and we called them over. Shortly +after, Mr. Hodgkinson and the black came back; we had some luncheon, +started the lubras back to the cart at the depot with a note requesting +them to advance to this lake and, at 1.25 p.m., started on a bearing of +345 degrees, along the side of the lake and at 2.45 left the north-east +sweep of the lake; then on a bearing of 32 degrees over sand ridges and +saltbush flats. Very open country till within one mile of camp at Gunany, +a large creek about sixty to eighty yards wide and from twenty to thirty +deep, on which we found a number of natives just finishing their day's +fishing. They had been successful and had three or four different sorts +of fish, namely the catfish of the Murray, the nombre of the Darling, and +the brown perch, and I think I observed a small cod. They offered, and I +took several, which were very good--they promised to bring more in the +morning. We came upon and crossed a large flooded wooded polygonum flat +which continued close to the camp. Distance travelled twenty-five and +three-quarters miles. + +Saturday, October 19. + +Early this morning about eighty natives of all sorts, healthy and strong, +visited the camp and could not be coaxed or driven away. I think they +would have tried to help themselves were it not from fear of the +arms--how they came to know their deadliness I cannot say. Altering one +of the camel saddles that has hurt one of their backs and caused us to be +late in starting. Started twenty minutes to 9 a.m. Immediately crossed +creek to Toorabinganee, a succession of reaches of water in a broad +creek, some apparently deep, spelled half an hour, crossed creek and went +over very high sandhills, pretty well grassed, with a little saltbush of +various kinds, with some flooded and saltbush flats, and arrived at +Luncheon Place, an island often, now partly, dry, on south-eastern side +in an extensive irregular lake of about eight and a half to nine miles +long by an average of one and three-quarters to two miles--very hot--name +of Lake Canna Cantajandide. Thought I might be able to cross it at the +narrowest place with the horses and camels instead of going all round, as +it put me out of my course. Sent Mr. Hodgkinson to ascertain its depth, +and found it too deep, so had to go round. Arrived at Luncheon Place at +ten minutes past 12, and started again twenty minutes to 4, and travelled +to east end of lake, bearing 202 degrees till 4.17; then course of 27 +degrees over exceedingly high and abrupt sandhills with poor miserable +flats between them; towards the end of our day's journey over a rather +more flat country with large dry beds of lakes or swamps, as dry as ashes +with a salt-like appearance, the only vegetation being a few scattered +bushes of samphire and an occasional saltbush--a more dreary country you +could not well imagine. Arrived at Lake Mooliondhurunnie, a nice little +lake nearly circular and nearly woodless, about one and a half miles +diameter, at five minutes to seven p.m. Abundance of good water and +plenty of feed--clover and some grass--bearing of creek that fills lake +350 degrees; east end 87 degrees; west end 303 degrees; north side 15 +degrees, distance travelled twenty-eight miles. On arrival at lake saw +several native fires, which on our lighting ours, were immediately put +out. Saw nothing of them. + +Sunday, October 20. + +At daylight about 90 to 100 natives of all sorts visited us; they were +not so unruly as those of the morning before, having evidently had some +communication with whites--using the word Yanaman for horse, as in +Sydney, and one or two other words familiar to me. Plenty of fish, of +sorts, in the lake, although not very deep. Cuddibaien bears 100 degrees. +The natives here say that the whites have left above place and are now at +Undaganie. I observed several portions of European clothing about their +camps as on our course we passed them. At the camp we found twenty to +thirty more natives, principally aged and children; and on the opposite +side of the lake there was another encampment, in all numbering about 150 +souls. The sandhills in our course were exceedingly high on the western +side but pretty hard; but on the eastern side almost precipitous and soft +drift sand; a dray or cart might get east, but I cannot fancy it possible +it could return. An exceedingly hot day, wind north. On our way the +natives informed us that the natives we had left in the morning had +murdered the man said to be at the end of our day's stage. On some of the +ridges and on crossing a large flat creek I observed two new trees or +shrubs (they are both) from one I obtained some seeds like beans, and +rather a nice tree; the other, when large, at a distance looks like a +shea-oak, having a very dark butt and long, drooping, dark-green, narrow +leaves, and did not appear to have any seeds at present. Started at 7.17 +till twenty-two minutes to 10, nine miles, on a bearing of from 100 to +105 degrees; at 8.18 sighted a large timbered creek, distant one mile, +for about seven miles, 360 to 140 degrees. At twenty-two minutes to 10 +observed a large dry salt lake bearing 341 degrees, north-west arm 330 +degrees, north arm 355 degrees, distance to extreme point of north bank +nine miles. Bullingani informed us that a large lake lay on a bearing of +110 degrees, some distance off, named Murri Murri Ando. At 10.15 started +on a fresh course of 64 degrees, crossing, 11.15, a small salt lake +rapidly drying up. At 11.30 altered course to 100 degrees; at twenty-five +minutes to 12 to ten minutes to 1 spelled on sandhill, waiting for the +camels, they feeling the effects of the steep sandhill. At nine minutes +past 1 altered course to 116 degrees; at 1.15 altered course to 161 +degrees; at seven minutes to 2 changed to 47 degrees; and at 2.20 reached +Lake Kadhibaerri. Found plenty of water and watered the horses (the +camels some distance behind, quite unable to keep up) and at once +proceeded northward along the side of a large beautifully-timbered +grassed and clovered swamp (or creek about one and a half miles across) +to ascertain the fact as to the presence of a European, dead or alive, +and there found a grave rudely formed by the natives, evidently not one +of themselves, sufficient pains not having been taken, and from other +appearances at once set it down as the grave of a white, be he who he +may. Returned to lake to await the coming of the camels which was not +till about 5 p.m. Determined in the morning to have the grave opened and +ascertain its contents. Whilst I went to top of sandhills, looking round +me, Mr. Hodgkinson strayed a short distance to some old deserted native +huts a short distance off, and by and by returned bearing with him an old +flattened pint pot, no marks upon it--further evidence that it was a +white, and felt convinced that the grave we saw was that of a white man; +plenty of clover and grasses the whole distance travelled, about eighteen +miles. Kept watch as usual (but did not intend doing so) but just as we +were retiring a fire suddenly struck up and we thought some of the +natives had followed us, or some others had come to the lake, rather a +strange matter after dark. The fire soon after disappeared, which made us +more certain still that it was natives. Intend spelling the camels for a +few days to recruit them; one on arrival was completely done up and none +of the others looking very sprightly. + +Monday, October 21. + +Up in good time; before starting for the grave went round the lake, +taking Mr. Hodgkinson with me to see if natives were really on lake, as I +did not intend saddling the camels today if there were no natives here, +intending to leave our camp unprotected, rather unwise, but being so +short of hands could not help it, the grave being much out of sight. +Found no natives round the lake nor any very recent traces saving that +some of the trees were still burning that they (when here last) had +lighted. We started at once for the grave, taking a canteen of water with +us and all the arms. On arrival removed the earth carefully and close to +the top of the ground found the body of a European enveloped in a flannel +shirt with short sleeves, a piece of the breast of which I have taken; +the flesh I may say completely cleared from the bones, and very little +hair but what must have been decomposed; what little there was I have +taken. Description of body, skull, etc: marked with slight sabre cuts, +apparently two in number, one immediately over the left eye, the other on +the right temple, inclining over right ear, more deep than the left. +Decayed teeth existed on both sides of lower jaw and right of upper; the +other teeth were entire and sound. In the lower jaw were two teeth, one +on each side (four between in front) rather projecting as is sometimes +called in the upper jaw buck teeth. I have measured the bones of the +thigh and leg, as well as the arm, with a cord, not having any other +method of doing it. Gathered all the bones together and buried them +again, cutting a lot of boughs and other wood, and putting over top of +the earth. Body lies with head south, feet north, lying on face, head +severed from body. On a small tree, immediately south, we marked MK Oct. +21, '61. Immediately this was over we questioned the native further on +the subject of his death. He says he was killed by a stroke from what the +natives use as a sword (an instrument of semicircular form) five to eight +feet long and very formidable. He showed us where the whites had been in +camp when attacked. We saw lots of fish bones but no evidence then on the +trees to suppose whites had been there. They had certainly chosen a very +bad camp in the centre of a box scrub with native huts within 150 to 200 +yards of them. On further examination we found the dung of camels and +horse or horses, evidently tied up a long time ago. Between that and the +grave we found another grave, evidently dug with a spade or shovel, and a +lot of human hair of two colours, that had become decomposed, on the skin +of the skull, and fallen off in flakes--some of which I have also taken. +I fancy they must all have been murdered here; dug out the new-formed +grave with a stick (the only instrument we had) but found no remains of +bodies save one little bone. The black accounted for this in this manner, +he says they had eaten them. Found in an old fireplace immediately +adjoining what appeared to be bones very well burned, but not in any +quantity. In and about the last grave named a piece of light blue tweed +and fragments of paper and small pieces of a Nautical Almanac were found, +and an exploded Eley's cartridge. No appearance on any of the trees of +bullet marks as if a struggle had taken place. On a further examination +of the blacks' camp where the pint pot was found there was also found a +tin canteen, similar to what is used for keeping naphtha in, or some such +stuff, both of which we keep. The native says that any memos the whites +had are back on the last camp we were at on the lake, with the natives, +as well as the ironwork of saddles which on our return we mean to +endeavour to recover if the blacks can be found; it may be rash but there +is necessity for it. I intend before returning to have a further search. +No natives yet seen here. + +Tuesday, October 22. + +Breakfasted and are just about to get in the horses to have a further +search when the natives make their appearance within half a mile of us, +making for some of their old huts. Immediately on observing us made off +at full speed. Mounted the horses and soon overtook one fellow in much +fear. In the pursuit the blackfellow with us was thrown from his horse; +the horse followed and came up with us just as we pulled the frightened +fellow up. Immediately after our blackfellow came up, mounted his horse, +and requested us at once to shoot the savage, as he knew him to be one of +the murderers of the man or party; but we declined, thinking we might be +able to glean something of the others from him. On taking him back from +where we caught him to the camp, he brought us to a camp (old) of the +natives, and there dug up a quantity of baked horsehair for saddle +stuffing. He says everything of the saddlery was burned, the ironwork +kept and the other bodies eaten--a sad end of the poor fellows. He stated +that there is a pistol north-east of us at a creek which I have sent him +to fetch; and a rifle or gun at the lake we last passed which, with the +other articles, we will endeavour to recover. Exceedingly hot; windy and +looks as if it would rain. The natives describe the country from south to +north of east as being destitute of water or creeks, which I afterwards +found cause to doubt. I have marked a tree here on north side MK Oct. 22, +'61; west side, Dig 1 ft.; where I will bury a memo in case anyone should +see my tracks, that they may know the fate of the party we are in search +of. There are tens of thousands of the flock pigeon here; in fact since +we came north of Lake Torrens they have been very numerous and at same +time very wary. Mr. Hodgkinson has been very successful in killing as +many of them as we can use, mixed with a little bacon. Before the native +went to fetch the pistol he displayed on his body, both before and +behind, the marks of ball and shot wounds now quite healed. One ball +inside of left knee so disabled him that he had to be carried about (as +he states) for some considerable time; he has also the mark of a pistol +bullet on right collarbone; and on his breast a number of shot--some now +in the flesh but healed. His family, consisting of four lubras and two +boys, remained close to our camp awaiting his return, which he said (from +pointing to the sun) would be 10 or 11 o'clock next day. When called at +twenty minutes to 11 p.m. to take my watch, I had not been on duty ten +minutes when I observed a signal fire in the direction he had gone, about +six miles distant, and wondered he did not make his appearance, but all +was quiet for the rest of the night, excepting that at intervals the fire +was replenished. + +Wednesday, October 23. + +4 a.m. Just as we were getting up, not very clear yet, headed by the +fellow I yesterday sent for the pistol, came about forty others bearing +torches, shields, etc. etc. etc., shouting and kicking up a great noise +and evidently endeavouring to surround us. I immediately ordered them +back, also telling the native that was with me to tell them that if they +did not keep back I would fire upon them, which they one and all +disregarded--some were then within a few paces of us, the others at +various other distances. I requested Hodgkinson and Middleton to be ready +with their arms and fire when desired. Seeing nothing else left but to be +butchered ourselves, I gave the word Fire. A few of those closest retired +a few paces and were being encouraged on to the attack when we repeated +our fire; and until several rounds were fired into them (and no doubt +many felt the effects) they did not wholly retire. I am afraid the +messenger, the greatest vagabond of the lot, escaped scathless. They then +took to the lake, and a few came round the western side of it, southward, +whom we favoured with a few dropping shots to show the danger they were +in by the distance the rifles would carry on the water. They then cleared +off and we finished with them. I then buried the memo for any person that +might happen to follow my footsteps, at the same time informing them to +beware of the natives as we had, in self-defence, to fire upon them. I +have no doubt, from the manner they came up, that they at once considered +us an easy prey; but I fancy they miscalculated and I hope it may prove a +useful lesson to them in future. Got breakfast ready and over without +further molestation and started at 10.30 on a bearing of 197 degrees. At +11.15 reached a recently-flooded richly-grassed flat, surrounded by a +margin of trees; the main bulk of it lying south of our course; thence +bearing 202 degrees, stopping twenty minutes for camels; and proceeding +and at 12.30 crossing north-west end of another dry lake or grassed and +clovered flat similar to the other. At 1.20 made a large box creek with +occasional gums, about from fifty to sixty yards wide and eighteen to +twenty feet deep, sandy bottom, where we struck it perfectly dry where a +stream flows to west of north with immense side creeks (I fancy Cooper's +Creek is a branch of it); followed its bed in its course northward and at +2 p.m. reached a waterhole with no very considerable quantity of water. +Watered the camels and horses. This creek is named Werridi Marara. From +thence Lake Buchanan bears 232 degrees 30 minutes; Kadhiberri 41 degrees; +Lake Mooliondhurunnie 296 degrees. Crossed the creek and went on a +bearing of 215 degrees 30 minutes till 6 p.m., striking same creek and +following its bed (dry) for about two miles and reached Dharannie Creek; +a little indifferent water in its bed, very steep banks (about thirty +feet high) and sixty yards broad. The bed of the creek from where we +struck it at 6 p.m. was chiefly rocky or conglomerate stone resembling +burned limestone. + +Thursday, October 24. + +Left at 7.15 bearing 215 degrees; travelling one hour and twenty minutes +over splendid grassy flats with low intervening sand-ridges. At five +minutes to ten made Arannie, a recently-dried lake (abundance of clover +and grasses) three miles long by one broad, at rightangles to our course, +and struck it quarter of a mile from its northern extremity. At 10.22 +made Ityamudkie, another recently-dried lake; plenty of luxuriant feed. +At ten minutes to 11 reached its western border at a creek called +Antiwocarra, with no great quantity of water, flowing from 320 degrees. +At 1 p.m. left Antiwocarra. At five minutes to 2 made a large flooded +flat, recently under water, with a great abundance of clover and grasses +reaching as far as the eye can trace. At rightangles to our course at +2.15 reached its western border, and at 2.25 reached the depot at Lake +Buchanan or Cudye-cudyena--the place where I directed the camp to be +shifted to--and found everything in good order, much to my satisfaction. +My black female messengers it appears did not go back at once to our camp +with the note I gave them, and consequently they did not get here till +Sunday. + +Friday, October 25. + +At camp very much the appearance of rain but none has fallen. Clearing +off any heavy trees round our camp that could be used by natives as +places of concealment. Have made up my mind to send a party into the +settled districts as far as Blanchewater with such information regarding +the object of my search and as much general information as is in my +power, with copy of journal and tracing showing our route, which Mr. +Hodgkinson will be better able to do neatly at Blanchewater than here in +the tents; although he has made here on the spot such a one as would give +a very good idea of all that is necessary. No part of this country has +had any rain for very many months; the grasses and herbage generally on +the hilly ground being like tinder. If it had an ordinary share it would +be an excellent healthy stock country. From the numbers of natives and +their excellent condition I am satisfied that many lakes and creeks in +this part are permanent; and as I mean to give it a good look over I have +come to the conclusion that I will require a further supply of flour, +tea, sugar, and a few little et ceteras, and will therefore send horses +with the party that goes to Blanchewater under the guidance of Mr. +Hodgkinson to bring up additional supplies, trusting to get them there, +and at the same time hoping this course may meet the approbation of the +Government; for in so doing I adopt the course I would pursue on my own +account and therefore do it on theirs. The men are in excellent health +and good spirits, and the animals except the camels (they cannot stand +the heavy hills of sand if at all hot, which it was on our last trip) are +all in good condition--many of them much better than when we left +Adelaide. The wind is blowing from all parts of the compass but rather +cool. For days previous it kept from the north and generally very hot +indeed. As yet no rare specimens obtained of birds, animals, or anything +else. + +Saturday, October 26. + +Threatens very much for rain; very sultry; sun overcast; and wind from +every quarter except north. Will start Mr. Hodgkinson, Bell, Wylde, and +Jack (the native) on Monday 28th October if nothing comes in the way, and +will request Mr. Hodgkinson to endeavour to procure a native that can +speak the language of the natives here; as those we have got do not know +one word nor, on the contrary, do the natives here understand them. They +all circumcise and principally knock out the two front teeth of the upper +jaw. After all the threatening for rain the day has closed without any. + +Sunday, October 27. + +Wind south and sultry; everything ready for the return party making a +start tomorrow; I expect them to be absent about three weeks. I am sorry +so much time should be lost; however should any rain fall ere they return +I will go over to Cooper's Creek Depot; but the country is so exceedingly +dry in this region at present that, unless I can make out to hit upon +those places where water has been left by the last flood, it would be +quite impossible to travel with anything like safety. Not a single quart +of water (surface left by rain) has been fallen in with since we left +Lake Torrens; and I question very much (from my knowledge of the Darling +country) whether Mr. Howitt has been able to push his way out as far as +Cooper's Creek yet for the want of rain, and am almost satisfied in my +own mind that Burke and party either reached the north coast, or at all +events went a very long way out, on a bearing of (firstly by account of +the natives) 311 1/2 degrees to or passing a salt lake or watercourse +(perhaps then fresh) where the natives report that the whites killed +their horse. They call the place Beitiriemalunie; there is also another +lake, salt now (perhaps then fresh) called Baramberrany. They gave no +particular intelligence as to the camels save mimicking their awkward way +of travelling with their heads thrown back. A bearing of 311 1/2 degrees +would take them near to Eyre's Creek; and I have no doubt that at that +time Burke and party went out from Cooper's Creek (in December last) they +would have to contend with too much water instead of the want of it, as +they must have travelled out of their way, very many miles often, to pass +the immense basins, swamps, and watercourses (boggy) that must have come +in their line of travel; and at that time all this country, perhaps to +Stuart's line of route, could have been thoroughly examined, as I can see +in many places large watercourses in the direction; and my belief is that +Burke's party were massacred on their return by their outward route, and +by one of their old camps. Whether they were all slaughtered or not it is +impossible to say from the traces and the considerable time that has +elapsed since they were killed. I will endeavour to examine the country +all round this locality for further traces of the party and camels; and +on return of my party, if not before, will push out a scouting party +towards Eyre's Creek and that quarter. I retain the two tins found near +the scene of the disaster. This for the present brings my journal to a +close. + +JOHN MCKINLAY, LEADER. + +* * * + + +[COPY OF LETTER BURIED AT LAKE MASSACRE.] + +S.A.B.R. EXPEDITION. + +October 23rd, 1861. + +TO THE LEADER OF ANY EXPEDITION SEEKING TIDINGS OF BURKE AND PARTY: + +Sir, + +I reached this water on the 19th instant, and by means of a native guide +discovered a European camp one mile north, on west side of flat. At or +near this camp traces of horses, camels, and whites were found. Hair, +apparently belonging to Mr. Wills, Charles Gray, and Mr. Burke or King, +was picked from the surface of a grave dug by a spade, and from the skull +of a European buried by the natives. Other less important traces--such as +a pannican, oil can, saddle stuffing, etc., have been found. Beware of +the natives; upon whom we have had to fire. We do not intend to return to +Adelaide, but proceed to west of north. From information, all Burke's +party were killed and eaten. + +I have, etc., JOHN MCKINLAY. + +P.S. All the party in good health. If you had any difficulty in reaching +this spot, and wish to return to Adelaide by a more practicable route, +you may do so for at least three months to come by driving west for +eighteen miles, then south of west, cutting our dray track within thirty +miles. Abundance of water, and feed at easy stages. + +* * * + + +CONTINUATION OF JOURNAL. + +(The preceding portion having been forwarded to Adelaide in October, +1861.) + +Monday, October 28. + +At 2.45 p.m. started Mr. Hodgkinson, Bell, Wylde, and Jack (native) with +four saddle-horses and twelve packhorses and saddles. Weather sultry, sky +overcast. Between 9 and 10 p.m. a heavy gale of wind from west, with a +good deal of thunder and lightning, which blew our encampment quickly to +the ground, after which we had a few squally showers from same quarter, +but nothing of any consequence; towards morning the wind quite lulled. + +Tuesday, October 29. + +Wind variable from north-west to south, and very cloudy, in expectation +of more rain; about 10 p.m. a native signal-fire south of this some +distance. Have seen none since my return--no great loss; none have made +their appearance during the night. + +Wednesday, October 30. + +At daylight quite a calm; then at 6 a.m. wind from south, then +south-east, then east, with a beautiful clear sky and the air very +agreeable. During the afternoon wind back to south and then a fresh +westerly breeze. Native dogs rather troublesome, lay baits with +strychnine. + +Thursday, October 31. + +At daylight found three baits gone and found close by two dead dogs. +Unpacking cart to put wheels in order, being rather loose, when one of +the baits fell from limb of tree, where for the time they were put, and +unfortunately our poor dog discovered it and ate it, and in a few moments +was dead. Wind as yesterday. Sowed some melon (pie), pumpkins, orange +pips, apricot, peach, and plum stones. During the night a native +signal-fire seen south. + +Friday, November 1. + +Wind westerly and strong and lots of light fleecy clouds. About 9 a.m. +the native Bullingani, who was out with me, came into camp alone, having +disappeared the evening of my return from Kadhibaerri. I wish he +understood a little English as then he would be of much service. + +Saturday, November 2. + +Wind westerly round to south and east during the day, afternoon very +strong westerly. Rode out today to the highest sandhill south-east and +round to west and north-west of the lake I am now on to see if any +likelihood of water to the east, west, or north-west; found a good deal +in a creek running northerly on west side of lake and beyond it; returned +by west side of lake. The native went away this afternoon, promising to +be back tomorrow. + +Sunday, November 3. + +Very strong west wind but cool and agreeable. Native not returned. + +Monday, November 4. + +In the morning wind light from south, veered round to east; blew strong +but cool. From the termination of the trees on creek that fills this lake +Anlaby Hill bears 165 degrees; patiently awaiting a good shower to enable +me to get to Cooper's Creek Depot to ascertain if any further traces of +Burke's party or his camels are there visible, or if Mr. Howitt's party +have arrived. On my way out on Saturday about two miles from here found +dung of horses or mules, of some considerable age, and on my return to +the camp one of the men a short distance from the camp picked up part of +a hobble-strap with black buckle, much worn and had been patched, or +rather sewn, by someone as a makeshift; the leather was perfectly rotten. +No traces on any of the trees round here of anyone having been encamped. +The flies all along have been a thorough plague; fortunately, and strange +to say, we have had no mosquitoes, but thousands of small gnats take +their place, and find their way into everything. Our native Bullingani +not returned. I hardly expected him as he did not seem inclined to give +any further information either as to water or any other subject. He says +they are mustering about fifteen miles south of this for a grand (weima) +or corroberrie, and informs me that they are gathering in from all +quarters, so that I hardly like to weaken the camp here by taking one of +the men away with me. I have generally seen at the break up of those +great meetings that if they can manage it they in some way or other do +mischief, and unless I see a peaceable dispersion of these people I will +not move far away, at least for not longer than a day or two. + +Tuesday, November 5. + +Wind west; during the day round to south and east; temperature mild. A +few natives made their appearance on the north-west side of the lake some +distance off; towards afternoon four of their young men came to the +opposite side. I sent for them and they came over and had some dinner; +after a few questions about waters, etc. etc., they took their leave +southward, the way no doubt the rest of their tribe had gone. + +Wednesday, November 6. + +Wind east in gusts and cloudy; in afternoon blew strong. Temperature very +agreeable. + +Thursday, November 7. + +Wind during the night and at daylight blew very strong from the east, +towards noon it moderated; sky much clouded but I suppose up here it will +all blow past without any rain, although it appears to be falling in the +east. Wind round to south-east and south during afternoon with every +appearance of rain. + +Friday, November 8. + +No rain during the night but it was very mild and close; wind south-east +with a few clouds but with very little appearance of rain. Anxious to +find water about a day's stage eastward of depot; started out for that +purpose east three-quarters of a mile to top of sandhill close by; then +on a bearing of 118 degrees for large sandhill at quarter of a mile. +Entered a well-grassed flooded flat for about two miles, and at about one +and a quarter miles further arrived at sandhill. About two miles +south-south-east is the grassy bed of a fine lake now dry, unless there +may be a little water in the creek at the south-east end of it. Not +seeing anything in the appearance of the country to indicate the presence +of water on this course, I started on a bearing of 68 degrees over +sandhills, and at two miles came to very cracked flooded flats, and +continued on them for four and a half miles, and at one and a half miles +further came to a long salty swamp running nearly north and south, a +desolate spot; then a sand rise and another of the same. Changed course +then to 90 degrees over sandhills; at seven miles long flooded grassed +flat, north to south; then sandhill; at eight miles came to an immense +flooded flat, north to south, with great width at its northern end. At +two and three-quarter miles further came to top of very high sandhill, +and close under (east) an immense dry salt lake or very large flat. From +this there is the appearance of a large lake northward, bearing 12 +degrees 20 minutes; it may be mirage, but I have observed it further back +on the day's stage, and from top of the highest hills it looks more like +water than mirage, and will therefore start for it, and if I find it is +water, it will suit my purpose as a stage on my intended journey to +Cooper's Creek on the arrival of the party now absent at Blanchewater. +For the first three miles over sand-ridges, then over cracked flooded +flats (grassless) for four miles, a box or gum creek on my right running +northward and southward. At the end of this distance I am satisfied that +I have been deceived; and as the day has been very hot and my horse +appears to be ill I will shape my course for the camp. Started at ten +minutes to 4 p.m.; find my horse thoroughly done up with, it appears, +dysentery, and am obliged to camp on top of large sandhill at 6.50 p.m.; +not a breath of wind and smoking hot. I chose this for a camp that I may +be enabled at daylight to see if there are any waters within range of +sight. + +Saturday, November 9. + +At daylight have a splendid view of the country round but not the +slightest appearance of water anywhere; start at 4 a.m. and I scarcely +think from the look of the horse that he will be able to take me in. I +never in so short a time saw an animal fall away so much. At 7 a.m. +struck the tracks of our horses and camels as we returned from +Cadhibaerri and followed them to camp. They led a little more to the +south than my course, as I now find that would take me out on the lake +camp about two miles north of camp. At about 8.10 a.m. got to camp, the +horse very seedy and myself not feeling very well. Some natives visited +the camp during my absence and I now see some on the opposite side of +lake. I sent for one to endeavour to get some information from him. They +had started off for our old camp before the messenger arrived but he +followed and one of them came back and stopped the night. I mean to take +him out east if he stops. I am getting very unwell from dysentery. Wind +strong from the north and very disagreeable. + +Sunday, November 10. + +Very unwell today; fortunately we have plenty of medicine. Wind moderate +from north-east to east and south-east. The native visitor, under +pretence of going to bring a net from the opposite side of the lake, took +French leave. I dare say when well I shall be able to get another. + +Monday, November 11. + +Worse rather than better today. To add to my misfortunes I have got my +right knee and back tendons become very stiff and painful, so much so +that I can hardly move. Very cloudy; wind changeable from north-east to +south-east. + +Tuesday, November 12. + +Wind strong from east and south-east. Little better today but leg equally +sore and stiff. Getting the cartwheels wedged and put to rights. From the +awful torment of the flies, the horses, although on magnificent feed, are +not in anything like the same condition as they were ten days ago; to +endeavour to escape them they go into the lake, and remain there for +hours at a stretch, lying down in the water and occasionally ducking +their heads under but to no purpose. Killed a sheep as the part of the +last one that was not jerked got putrid during next day and had to be +thrown away. Am sorry also that the sausages, after dragging them so far, +after all have to be thrown away, being perfectly unfit for use; had they +been good they would have been a splendid thing. We find the bacon an +excellent standby. Threatens much for rain. + +Wednesday, November 13. + +Rain blown off. Much better today. Wind very strong from east and +particularly cold, so much so that I can keep my coat on and not feel +inconvenienced by it; whereas before one's shirt was sufficient. Wind +chopped round in the evening to south, pretty strong. + +Thursday, November 14. + +Getting quite well again but knee quite stiff and painful. Very cold +during the night and at daylight quite ready for a topcoat. Wind strong +from east; moderated at noon and got warm. It is quite a pleasure to see +how well the bullocks are freshening; some indeed fit to kill; they don't +seem to suffer so much from the flies as the horses or camels. Two of the +latter (the Melbourne ones) had their backs slightly bruised and, +although constantly attended to, take a very long time to recover. + +Friday, November 15. + +Wind east at daylight. Thermometer stood at 54 degrees; this is lower +than I thought it would have been and the morning is not anything like so +cold as yesterday morning. I will notice the temperature during the rest +of our stay here. At five in the afternoon it stood at 100 degrees. +Bullingani and his two lubras came to the camp accompanied by another +native of Lake Perrigundi. + +Saturday, November 16. + +Wind east at daylight; thermometer, 63 degrees; breeze very moderate; at +noon died away to a calm. At 2 p.m. thermometer in sun 140 degrees; at 6 +p.m. 106 degrees in the sun. Some natives opposite fishing in the lake; +one here busy making a net from the rushy grass that abounds round the +lake. At sunset quite a calm. + +Sunday, November 17. + +Quite a calm at daylight; temperature in open air 68 degrees; at 8 a.m. +slight breeze from north, thermometer in sun 118 degrees; at 10 a.m. 136 +degrees; at noon 160 degrees with wind from north-west with a number of +thunder-looking clouds. At sunset temperature 97 degrees; still cloudy. A +further arrival of natives on opposite side of lake. + +Monday, November 18. + +At daylight calm; temperature 73 degrees in open air. At 10 a.m. +temperature 143 degrees in the sun out of the wind; wind from north to +north-west. A number of natives arrived this morning. At twenty minutes +to 11 a.m. temperature 154 degrees; at noon cool breeze temperature 146 +degrees; at sunset light breeze from north-west, temperature 102 degrees. +Anxiously expecting the party under Mr. Hodgkinson. + +Tuesday, November 19. + +Wind north at daylight; temperature 77 degrees in open air; up till noon +blew strong. Temperature at noon in sun out of the breeze 136 degrees. At +sunset wind moderated; heavy clouds from south-east round by south-west +to north. At 9 p.m. temperature 96 degrees. At 12 blew a strong gale from +south-east accompanied by a very little rain. A good deal of lightning +and a little thunder from the southward of west, round west and north of +west and apparently raining. + +Wednesday, November 20. + +Wind working round from south of east to north of east. At 6 a.m. +temperature 84 degrees; very cloudy and threatens much for rain--perhaps +when the wind moderates we may have a fall. For the last few days +Middleton has been laid up with a very bad sore ulcerated throat but is +now nearly recovered. I am now quite recovered and anxiously awaiting the +return of Mr. Hodgkinson's party that I may be enabled to start for +Cooper's Creek by a route a little more to the southward than when I +tried when last out. At 1 p.m. wind fallen and changed to +west-north-west; temperature 98 degrees. Wind suddenly chopped round by +west to south from which quarter till dark it blew quite a gale, causing +the lake to recede about 600 yards further north. Highest temperature +during afternoon 105 degrees; at 7 p.m. 90 degrees. It looks exceedingly +like rain and very boisterous. Mr. Hodgkinson's party not yet arrived. At +midnight a few drops of rain with the high wind. + +Thursday, November 21. + +Quite a calm, the sky completely overcast; whether it will rain or not +remains to be seen. The water in the lake has returned to its old bed. +Temperature at daylight 85 degrees. From a long conversation I had with a +native yesterday, who came to the camp, I am led to believe that only one +of the whites was murdered at Lake Cadhibaerri at the time of the attack +upon them by the natives there. On the return of the party from the +north-west they repulsed the natives, killing some and wounding others; +the party buried their comrade and marched southward. The natives, on +seeing that the whites had proceeded onwards, immediately returned to the +scene of the disaster, dug up the body, cut off all the principal +muscular parts, and feasted upon their revolting repast. So minutely does +this native know all their movements that he has described to me all the +waters they passed and others at which they camped, and waters that they +remained at for some time, subsisting on a sort of vetch seed that the +natives principally use here for food, and obtained in large quantities +on many of the flooded flats by sweeping it into heaps, then winnowing +it, then grinding or pounding it between two stones, then mixing it with +water into the consistency of damper, and finally making a cake and +putting it into the ashes the same way as damper--when cooked and fit for +use it tastes rather strong, but no doubt they could live upon it for a +long time as it must be wholesome. That, with the game and fish they +could get from the waters of the creeks and lakes, would keep them alive +very well if they did not further attempt to make their way to the +Darling (which the native says they did) but I hope soon to see and trust +they have not attempted to do so. If they have not done so, and that they +are alive and escaped the natives, their relief is certain. One thing I +cannot arrive at is how long or how many moons it is since they were +attacked at Lake Cadhibaerri, as I then could form a much more accurate +idea of the truthfulness or otherwise of the native's statements; but it +must be some considerable time as the body I found was perfectly +decomposed, and on the skull even there was not a particle of skin, but +as bare as if it had lain in a grave for years. A slight shower this +afternoon, hardly sufficient to wet one's shirt. Temperature highest +during the day 104 degrees, very close and disagreeable; at sunset +temperature 88 degrees, heavy clouds all round, not a breath of wind. +Hodgkinson's party not yet arrived. If he does not come within the next +two days I shall feel very uneasy. Had a visit from about a score of +natives, some of them from the north-east, other two from the +west-north-west about the stony desert, as they describe an abundance of +stones in that quarter. Wind from south-east to south, during the night a +very little rain. + +Friday, November 22. + +Daylight quite cloudy and like rain. Temperature 82 degrees, wind +chopping all round; at noon south and north of west. Temperature 142 +degrees and still a cool breeze blowing; sunset temperature 90 degrees, +wind southward and strong. No appearance of Hodgkinson and party. The +natives in a great stir here tonight about something--about a dozen of +them crossed the lake to us after dark, wishing to camp near for the +night; but as I did not approve of their movements in the evening +immediately sent them off again. + +Saturday, November 23. + +At daylight wind strong from the east; temperature 80 degrees, at 5.30 +a.m. blew quite a gale from south, the sky quite overcast and in every +other part of the country would make preparations for a heavy fall of +rain, but I have seen so much of this here that I don't expect rain till +I see it. Temperature noon 110 degrees, rain all blown past; at sunset +wind still strong from south; temperature 84 degrees. No appearance of +Hodgkinson's party. Natives assembling in great numbers on this +lake--distributed some beads, bracelets, and other trinkets amongst them, +at which they seemed much pleased. + +Sunday, November 24. + +Wind south-east beautifully cool; temperature at sunrise 63 degrees; at +noon in shade 84 degrees; at sunset wind south, temperature 76 degrees; +cloudy. Hodgkinson not arrived. + +Monday, November 25. + +At 1.30 a.m. temperature 62 degrees; at sunrise temperature 58 degrees, +wind east-south-east, beautifully cool; at noon temperature 106 degrees +in the sun and wind; at sundown 82 degrees, gentle breeze. + +Tuesday, November 26. + +Wind east, at sunrise temperature 63 degrees; at noon in the shade +temperature 79 degrees, very light breeze: temperature at 2.30 p.m. 110 +degrees, wind west-north-west and cool; at sunset temperature 90 degrees, +calm. No appearance of the party from Blanchewater. + +Wednesday, November 27. + +Calm at sunrise, temperature 60 degrees; at 9 a.m. 116 degrees in the +sun; at 1 p.m. 118 degrees. Got the horses in the forenoon and went east +three and a half miles; first three-quarters of a mile over sandhills, +rest of the way over flooded ground to Goderannie Creek; not much water +now; then to Palcooraganny. At present this is the dry bed of a small +lake with plenty of dry clover and grasses in the dry bed. On the +north-east side of the lake is a well dug by the natives about ten to +eleven feet deep with about one foot of water at present in it and good. +I suppose a considerable quantity could be had if the hole were enlarged. +Close by there was an encampment of blacks, in all about a dozen, not the +same apparent well-fed fellows that frequent the lakes and main creeks. +From enquiry it appears that during the dry season this is the sort of +water they have to depend upon, and I think the wells are few and far +between. A high sandhill was some little distance off and to it I went; +from the top of which I had an extensive view. Could see nothing +northward and westward but a jumble of lower sandhills looking very +dreary without even a creek with its timber to break the monotony of the +view. From the top of the hill there was water at a distance of one and a +half to one and three-quarter miles. Depot about sixteen miles distant. +Goderannie Creek is deep, with abundance of fish of various sorts, and +drains all the creeks that fill our depot lake, and the creek to the west +of the lake over the sandhills. Started the blackfellows and whites to +dig a well close by the depot before I went away this morning. At eight +feet eight inches struck water (good). Will deepen it tomorrow and see +what supply would be likely to be had if necessity would require it. +Party not yet returned; feel quite uneasy about them but suppose they did +not get what they were sent for as soon as they expected. + +Thursday, November 28. + +At daylight wind strong from south-south-east, at sunrise temperature 63 +degrees. Enlarging and deepening the well. Temperature at noon in the sun +and wind 106 degrees; at sunset 73 degrees. Finished the well, now being +nine feet six inches deep, three and a half feet broad and five feet +long. For the first four feet it was a mixture of light-coloured clay and +fine sand, next three and a half feet was a mixture of gypsum and blue +clay, next to bottom a little clay mixed with chiefly fine sand, then the +water seemed to come in from all quarters. Party not yet +arrived--exceedingly anxious about them. + +Friday, November 29. + +Wind south-south-east and cool at sunrise, temperature 54 degrees, being +much lower than we have had it except once. There is a depth of ten +inches of water in the well during twelve hours. At 7.30 a.m. two natives +arrived on opposite side of the lake, bringing the joyous tidings that +the party under charge of Mr. Hodgkinson had camped at a creek called +Keradinti about eight miles from this last night, so that I expect them +every hour--I was heartily glad to hear of them. At 9.30 a.m. Mr. +Hodgkinson and party arrived safe, for which I was truly thankful; I was +afraid something had happened to them from their apparent long absence. I +am sorry that the native Jack, that accompanied them from this, deserted +about the inner stations, having heard some idle report of something +having happened to the party here. Mr. Hodgkinson has brought back with +him nearly everything I required. By him I also received some Adelaide +papers in which were some Melbourne telegrams, one of which announced the +rescue by Mr. Howitt of one of Burke's party, King, so that I have been +deceived as to appearances at Lake Cadhibaerri respecting the different +colours of hair found. Still I am under the impression that when Burke's +diary is published that it will show of some affray with the natives +about that place, or they would not have acted towards us when there as +they did. By receipt of such intelligence, and that now the whole of the +unfortunate party are accounted for, it renders my journey to Cooper's +Creek, as I intended, useless for any purpose of relief. Had they on +their arrival from the north coast at Cooper's Creek depot only pushed +westward this length they could, with the greatest ease to themselves, +have made the Adelaide stations. I am quite surprised that they could not +get south by Strzelecki's Creek, being under the impression that +two-thirds of the water of Cooper's Creek was drained off by that +watercourse southward. My impression from observation here is that a very +great portion of the waters of Cooper's Creek is drained northwards from +this. Before leaving this it is my intention to push eastward some +distance to ascertain the character of the country, and on my return to +push westward for some distance to ascertain if the stony desert exists +so far southward as this; I will then proceed northward and examine the +waters reported by the natives to exist in that quarter, and ascertain if +they are likely to be of permanent use to South Australia. From them I +shall be entirely guided by the appearance of the country there as to my +future movements. I am now satisfied that water can be had by digging. By +the time I return from the east and westward the horses that have been +down to the settled districts will have so far recovered from their +fatigue, and be again able to proceed northward. At 5 p.m. depth of water +in the well fifteen and a half inches, the water very hard and clear, +quite the opposite of the lake, which is very soft and rather milky in +colour. Mr. Hodgkinson, since he has been absent, has had a severe attack +of illness brought on, I believe, by injury sustained from a pummelling +he received at Apoinga, near the Burra, from one of the camels, Siva, who +at that time was very unruly and inclined to be vicious. He has +repeatedly complained and even now is not at all the thing. I trust he +will thoroughly recover as he is a very energetic little fellow and the +want of his services would be a considerable loss to me on my coming +journey. Highest temperature during day 120 degrees. + +Saturday, November 30. + +Wind south-south-east. Temperature at sunrise 70 degrees; depth of water +in the well at 5 a.m. eighteen and a quarter inches. Temperature at noon +99 degrees in the sun and wind. Temperature at sunset 84 degrees; wind +west of south a little cloudy; so it was last night. + +Sunday, December 1. + +A little rain during the night but not enough to wet a sheet of paper. At +sunrise temperature 70 degrees, calm. At noon slight breeze southerly; +temperature 110 degrees. Found suspended the spring of one of Terry's +breech-loading rifles round the neck of a native; he describes the +remaining portions of the rifle out to the north-east, which will be +nearly in our north course. Highest temperature during the afternoon in +the sun 129 degrees; at sunset 99 degrees. + +Monday, December 2. + +Wind south-south-east, temperature at sunrise 77 degrees; sky completely +overcast. Start out eastward to examine the country with two camels, five +horses, and sufficient food for one and a half weeks, taking with me +Middleton, Poole, Frank (a native), and a native of this place. My main +object in going out now is firstly to ascertain if there is a likelihood +of a flood down Cooper's Creek this season, after all the rain that has +fallen along the eastern side of the continent some months back, and +which I thought possible might have fallen as well on and to west of +coast range, so to secure to us an open retreat in the event of our being +able to make some considerable advance northward, and being detained some +time. And secondly to ascertain if anyone was as yet stationed on +Cooper's Creek, to intimate to them my intentions of proceeding northward +for some distance, and the almost certainty of crossing any track of +either of the search parties from the northern coast could possibly make +en route to Cooper's Creek or even Eyre's Creek. Started at 9.15 a.m., +and passed through nothing but sandhill and flooded flat country till 3 +p.m., and arrived at Tac Wilten Creek, containing little water but +drinkable. For the first few miles the sandhills were further apart with, +in the interval, salt-bush and grassy flats. Watered the horses and +camels; crossed the creek, passed up the south side; crossed a sandhill; +crossed the creek, went a short distance to north side of creek; +recrossed it and went up south side to water. This is a long narrow strip +of water, not deep and drying up fast. A number of natives here. Crossed +creek again and went to Aunrinnie; arrived at north-east end of water and +crossed creek at 4.30 p.m. Distance about twenty-five miles. The water +here although enough is quite unfit for use, the horses and camels +refusing it; but there is good green feed in the flat. + +Tuesday, December 3. + +Started at 8 a.m.; passed over sandhills till 8.43 and made large lake, +dry, Cullamun by name, destitute of vegetation and no margin of trees; +passed over sandhills and flooded flat to a creek very broad, deep, and +well defined by timber, and trending northward; not much water at +present, good here but unfit for use above and below, like that of last +night; creek called Agaboogana. Distance about eight miles. I went there +rather out of my course to water the camels, being the nearest in going +anything like the course I wished; passed sandhills through south end of +large dry lake at 11.22, and again sandhills; then through large flooded +swamp, Narrogoonnoo Mooku, with no marginal trees; southern end a good +deal of cane grass; then again sandhills till 12.46; then large cracked +flooded plain, Wandrabrinnannie, till arrived at a creek with no water; +crossed and rode up creek on south side to east of north to Barka Water, +no feed; got down into the bed of the creek and rode up about +three-quarters of a mile to a water called Moollaney, pretty good; no +great quantity and but little feed. Total distance about twenty-five +miles. A lot of stones of a fruit found here, of a very ornamental little +tree from six to fifteen feet high, which I have secured. + +Wednesday, December 4. + +At or rather before daylight Middleton, in attending to the camels, +unfortunately got his foot seriously injured by a considerable-sized +stick which was stuck in the ground; its end penetrating deeply into the +foot as he was returning to the camp down the steep bank. I am afraid I +will have to return with him; I have pulled out several ragged pieces of +wood from the wound; a lot of small tendons protrude. I will try one day +up the creek and see if he can stand it. Started at 9.40 leaving creek on +right; crossed small flooded flat to sandhill; then good low sandhills, +firm travelling; passed a water called Appomoremillia, about one and a +half miles to our right in the creek. Crossed creek in the centre of a +cracked flooded flat bearing to the north by west; passed over sandhills +and a heavy flooded cracked and timbered flat in which is a creek bearing +north-east with sandy hillocks and native wurlies. Bore south to creek +Goonnooboorroo with little water. Distance about sixteen miles today. +Middleton's foot pains him much. + +Thursday, December 5. + +Obliged to camp with Middleton. On a large gum tree marked MK (conjoined) +Dec. 4, 5, 1861. One large creek comes in here from the south; and +immediately below this about 100 yards another from same quarter. +Bronze-wing and crested pigeons here; also some beautiful parrots, black +ducks, teal, whistlers, painted widgeons, and wood-duck in small number; +also parakeets and quail. Some dry grass here on top of banks up to my +waist; further out there is some good tussocky grasses and there has been +plenty oats. Secured seeds from the bean tree and the stones of the fruit +before alluded to. Fish in water here, although there is only a small +quantity and drying up fast. In looking for the horses in the morning up +the main creek found, about three-quarters of a mile from this, where +Burke had camped in the bed and had dug for water. From the appearance of +their camp and quantity of camel dung he slept more than one night here. +I think when they camped there there was water both below and above; it +is now quite dry however. A small quantity of sewing twine was found at +this camp. + +Friday, December 6. + +Middleton's foot a little easier; thought of returning as he is quite +unfit for work, but have made up my mind now to go on and ascertain the +facts I went out to obtain. I therefore started at 8.25 a.m. for the +upper waters of the creek, keeping on the south bank; crossed several +creeks until 12 o'clock, when we found in the camp, a little above +Pardulli, a gum tree marked W.J. Wills, N.N.W., xlv. yds., A.H. Turned +out our horses here for some time; between the last crossing of the creek +and this I got a view of a couple of red sand bluffs and distant +sandhills, or hills of some kind, to north-west. Started from Wills's +grave at 4.10 and crossed creek; struck the creek again at 5.35 with +plenty of water to Howitt's camp, xxxii.; thence on to Burke's grave, +striking dry creek and following it to Yarrowanda; arrived here at 7.10 +p.m. + +Saturday, December 7. + +Started at 7.7 a.m. and came to Burke's grave--about two miles on south +bank of creek. On the north-east side of a box tree, at upper end of +waterhole, native name Yaenimemgi, found marked on tree R.O'H.B., +21-9-61., A.H. Deposited a document in case of the return of any party. +Saw a cobby horse on arrival here last night; tried to catch him. Saw the +tracks of cattle up the creek, short distance from him; they had gone +further up the creek to a water, Cullimuno. Spelled today. + +Sunday, December 8. + +Started back for camp; passed large numbers of natives; marked small gum +sapling MK roughly; made for heavy creek that joins another at +Strzelecki's Creek, and camped at a water called Tacdurrie, a small water +about two miles from Gooneborrow in the main creek. Distance travelled +today about twenty-seven and a half miles. + +* * * + + +[COPY OF DOCUMENT LEFT AT COOPER'S CREEK, DATED 7TH DECEMBER, 1861.] + +TO THE LEADER OF THE PARTY OUT FOR THE REMAINS OF THE LOST BURKE AND +WILLS, BUT MORE ESPECIALLY TO THE OFFICER IN CHARGE OF THE DEPOT LIKELY +TO BE FORMED ON THIS CREEK. + +Sir, + +I beg to state that I have had communication with Adelaide and have +received papers from there intimating the relief of King, the only +survivor of the Melbourne Gulf of Carpentaria party, and an announcement +that the Melbourne Government were likely to have the remains of the late +gentlemen removed from this creek to Melbourne, to receive a public +burial and monument to their memory, and at the same time stating their +intention of establishing a depot somewhere on this creek to await the +arrival of one or other of the parties (in search of the late Burke and +Wills) from Rockhampton, or the Albert, on the Gulf of Carpentaria. + +I beg to state I am with my party stationed on a lake about eighty-five +miles westerly of this; and immediately on my return there I start +northward, and for the first part of my journey a little to east of +north, and will, at every suitable camp on my route, bury documents +conveying the intelligence meant to be conveyed to either of the parties, +by the depot party likely to be formed here, of the fate of the late +party; by which means they will be put in possession of the facts, and +can return to the Albert or go on through to Adelaide. There is at +present, and will be for some time to come, easy access to Adelaide by my +route, which the wheel tracks of my cart have clearly defined. + +By this means of intimation to the parties in question it will relieve +the party to be stationed here from the necessity of passing a summer in +this hot region. My course will intersect any course either of the +parties out from the northward can make between Eyre's Creek and the late +Burke's depot on this creek. + +I beg to remain, Sir, + +Your most obedient servant, + +JOHN MCKINLAY, + +Leader of the S.A.B.R. Expedition. + +* * * + + +Monday, December 9. + +Started at 7.25 a.m.; followed creek down and passed Goonaboorroo +waterhole; passed flooded cracked flats and sandhills to Molanny Creek. +Distance travelled today seventeen miles. + +Tuesday, December 10. + +Started and crossed creek at 7.30 a.m., over sandhills, then through bed +of large dry lake or swamp; name of swamp Wando Binannie; a good deal +cracked and bad travelling. From thence through low sandhills, flooded +box flats, steep sandhills; crossed Narro Dhaerrie swamp; crossed creek +at east end of main water; this drying up fast. Crossed creek twice and +camped on south side of lower end of Tac Welter. + +Wednesday, December 11. + +Started at 6.30; crossed creek and flat; over sandhills and flooded flat +with large saltbush and polygonum; timber to the right and some samphire +bushes; crossed my old single track, with alternate sandhills and cracked +flooded flats, and arrived at our depot camp on Lake Buchanan at 11 a.m. +Distance about nineteen miles. + +Thursday, December 12. + +Remain in camp; temperature at sunrise 68 degrees; wind east; 11.30 a.m., +temperature 165 degrees in the sun out of the wind; very hot indeed and +wind north-east; dead calm at 6 p.m.; temperature 100 degrees; sun +overcast; temperature at sunset thermometer exposed to sun and wind 90 +degrees. + +Friday, December 13. + +Dead calm at sunrise; temperature 64 degrees; at 7 a.m. wind north-east +temperature 102 degrees; at 9.15 wind north temperature 150 degrees in +the sun and out of the wind; at 10.30 temperature 158 degrees; at noon +hot; wind west; temperature 138 degrees; sunset light breeze from +south-west; temperature 95 degrees. + +Saturday, December 14. + +Started at 7.45 a.m.; crossed sandhills and timbered flat and creek +running north about 200 yards wide; passed end of very stunted box-tree +flat running parallel to our course and camped on creek with little +water. + +Sunday, December 15. + +Started at 8.8 a.m.; passed through long dry grass with scrubby box; then +flooded box flats to Paul Cooroogannie and reached depot at 6.5 p.m. It +blew quite a gale of wind during the day from south-south-west with dust +and a few drops of rain. + +Monday, December 16. + +Wind changed to east (strong); temperature at 7 a.m. 65 degrees; wind +moderated during the day. Making ready to start tomorrow. + +Tuesday, December 17. + +Deposited memos to Chief Commissioner of Crown Lands and finders of +deposits under a tree here marked MK (conjoined) from Oct. 20 to Dec. 17, +1861. Dig arrow at 1 o'clock. Bullock dray started at 8.30 a.m., eight +bullocks in team and three loose; crossed north end of swamp; then small +sandhills; then creek or watercourse cutting my course at rightangles; +passed south end of considerable-sized flooded flat, connected by +last-named watercourse. Pole of cart just broken. Left cart and proceeded +with some of party to Goonyanie Creek. Great difficulty in getting a +suitable stick for the pole; sent Mr. Hodgkinson and Palmer with the +bullocks back to our late camp on Coodygodyannie to get a pole there if +possible; left bullocks there for the night. They returned unsuccessful. +Hunted Goonyanie Creek up and down myself with but indifferent result, +but must cut one such as is to be found and make shift with it till a +better can be procured. A great number of natives here; the creek +northward ceases one quarter mile from this and loses itself on a +polygonum plain--no doubt forms again. South of this it continues for +about one and a half to two miles and is lost on flooded flat. There +appears to be a great quantity of fish here; some very fine ones being +caught this afternoon, one of which must have weighed from four to five +pounds (a perch). Although the water here is very much reduced since I +was here about the middle of October the water in two holes is yet pretty +deep; no great quantity of grass here. + +Wednesday, December 18. + +Natives walking about greater part of last night. Two of them came into +camp, one of whom was known and allowed to remain; the other (a stranger) +was started at once. At their camp, which was about one hundred yards +off, they kicked up a great row for a long time. Started Mr. Hodgkinson +with Palmer and a native to Lake Coodygodyannie for the bullocks, and +Davis and Wylde out to the broken cart (about three miles off) with +water, on two camels, for the party left in charge of it, namely Kirby +and Maitland, today increased by Wylde on account of so many natives. The +bullocks duly arrived during the day, having gone back to the old camp. +Immediately proceeded to cut such a pole as was to be had here, and took +it out to the dray to be got in readiness to suit as well as possible the +purpose required, and returned to camp with the bullocks. + +Thursday, December 19. + +During the night a native dog came up to the sheepfold and was shot by +Frank (a native). The natives, encamped a short distance from here, +hearing the report of the gun, immediately took to flight and with them +the native Bullingani who was of so much use to me; however another is +easily got. Some of them returned in the morning. Temperature during +afternoon in sun 145 degrees. Was unable to get dray ready early enough +to go a stage, but brought it in here in the afternoon, ready for an +early start tomorrow morning. + +Friday, December 20. + +Marked a tree on north bank MK (conjoined), Dec. 17, 18, 19, 1861. +Temperature at sunrise 78 degrees. Sky completely overcast. Found Frank +asleep on duty and reprimanded him, when he became saucy and sulky and +determined to return to settled districts. Settled with him to date. He +was twelve weeks with us and received an order for 6 pounds, being the +amount due to him at the rate of ten shillings per week. Started and +passed through flats till we came to a creek where we stopped for a short +time; crossed creek to the margin of a lake bed containing some water. +Went north some distance to get round the lake to where the creek is dry. +This creek fills this lake--Goonaidrangannie. Camped on north-east end at +1 p.m. There are a great number of natives here; the water appears very +deep. Mr. Hodgkinson swam out about 300 yards with a plumb-line and found +the depth 10 1/4 feet; but further south and east it is much deeper. This +lake must be at times a great rendezvous for natives in extreme drought. +One of our best working bullocks, before he came ten miles, was killed by +the heat although, after getting to camp at 1 p.m., the thermometer was +tried and the greatest heat arrived at was 144 degrees. I was not aware +that the bullock was dead until the arrival of the cart later in the +afternoon. The driver, seeing he was much exhausted, had him and the one +and the one yoked with him turned out of the team, and went on a short +distance and sent back for them, however, shortly after, when the animal +was found quite dead--consequently we were unable to secure any of him +for food as it would not keep; but at daylight in the morning I will send +for his hide as it will be much needed. He will be a serious loss to us +out in such a country where we require a spare bullock to spell another +occasionally. A good deal of thunder and great indications for rain, but +blows off with only a few drops; quite a hot wind and altogether has been +a very disagreeable day. Wind from north. + +Saturday, December 21. + +Started three men out to skin the bullock and bring in the hide. Wind +south; sky overcast but hardly expect rain. Tree marked MK (conjoined), +20-12-61 on south side. The men returned with the hide at 8.10 a.m. The +bullocks, after their distress of yesterday, were left unhobbled and have +strayed to some distance, not having come up yet at this hour--8.10 a.m. +Bullocks arrived, and we started at 10.20 a.m. Camels and horses started +at 12 o'clock. Came through some splendid feed to another lake containing +but very little water and that quite bitter. Start for Moolionboorrana at +3 p.m., and arrived there at 5.53 p.m. Distance about twelve and a half +miles; first half distance was flooded flats and sand-ridges. On our way +to Thoorabiengannie at four and a half miles made the bed of a dry lake, +Tiedhenpa, with splendid feed and park-like appearance of considerable +extent. The remaining part of the distance was alternate low sandy hills +and flooded narrow flats. Camels and horses arrived at Lake +Moolionboorrana camp on north-east side of creek at 3.30 p.m. Distance +about eleven miles. Exceedingly scant of timber. The cart and sheep not +having got to camp, started Bell and Wylde with three horses back to +ascertain the cause of detention, and take food for the men if they were +unable to bring the dray during the evening; but it became so dark that +they could not retrace the tracks of their horses. At 10 p.m. returned to +camp without having seen or heard anything of cart or sheep. Will start +off again at daylight. A number of natives round the lake. Innumerable +pelicans, and numbers of ducks, gulls, waders, cormorants, fish, and +pigeons, and abundance of green grass; but no shade or protection from +the extreme heat of the sun. Rain has fallen here some short time since, +small quantities being still in the claypans; and from the cloudy +appearance of the sky with thunder to the north I fancy it has fallen +heavily in that quarter. + +Sunday, December 22. + +At daylight sent Mr. Hodgkinson, Bell, and a native with four horses to +cart, to know cause of detention, etc. Unfortunately the thermometer got +broken yesterday which will prevent in future our ascertaining the +temperature of the interior, which is much to be regretted as no doubt it +would interest many. Wind south. Bullock cart got to camp at 8.20 a.m. +having had an upset. Nothing particularly wrong with it. Sheep all right. +Will spell today to recruit bullocks and men that were with them, all +having had to be on watch during the night as the natives were round and +about them the whole time--for what purpose they did not know. At 8.30 +wind chopped round to north-north-east and very warm. This lake is +circular and almost without timber; but is a fine sheet of water and will +stand the weather well. There is a great deal of soda in it. It is about +two and a half to three miles long from north to south and about two +miles from east to west; the creek that supplies it (filling it from +north-west end) coming from north. The bullocks are so jaded with the +heat of the past two days and the heavy nature of the ground that they +have hardly left the water during the day without being driven; they even +went so far as to go out and lie down in it for hours. + +Monday, December 23. + +Wind north-north-east; sky very much overcast to southward and round by +west to north. Bullocks started at 7.40 a.m. I started with native at the +same time and reached the Creek Gadhungoonie, with a considerable +quantity of water and fully half a mile in length; but so thoroughly +bitter and salty that it was quite unfit for man or beast. Must now start +out to another creek some distance off (by report) although I meant to +give the bullocks a short day of it. Spelled till the camels came up and +started on to Abberanginnie Lake Creek, or rather I believe, +Watthiegurtie Creek, which is the creek that fills the lake--the latter +being now dry. Came over some seven and a half miles of country to +Watthiegurtie, which is also salt and bitter, and started then for +Caunboogonannie. At 2 p.m. passed in my way two salt lakes to the south +with salt-water in them, respectively named Anodhampa and Thoorpalinnie; +passed also to north a recently dried up lake named Gnooloomacannie, well +timbered round its shores, with abundance of grass all over it. Arrived +at this splendid lake (Caunboogonannie) at 3.55 p.m. Splendid water and +feed. This lake also is nearly circular and about two and a half to three +miles in diameter. This lake I have called Jeannie after a young lady +acquaintance--Miss Pile of Gawler. The cart could not get further than +the last bitter water we passed today. Immediately south of that is the +dry bed of Lake Uilgobarrannie, and immediately on the north-west side of +that lake is the dry bed of Lake Caunmarriegoteinnie. This little creek, +flowing nearly south, fills Abberingannie Lake, now nearly dry, and Lakes +Anodhampa and Thoorpalinnie--both at present with water but unfit for +use; plenty of good feed round all. + +Tuesday, December 24. + +At daylight sent Mr. Hodgkinson to the cart with a packhorse and two +canteens of water, and to point out a more firm place for the cart to +cross Watthiegurtie Creek than where we crossed the camels and horses, it +being very boggy. A vast number of natives here, and upon the whole about +the finest race I have seen in the colonies, and at present apparently +friendly. Any quantity of fish and hundreds of pelicans. This country is +fit for any description of stock and, with anything like a moderate +supply of rain, would be most excellent country; even as it is it is not +equalled to the southward as far as Kanyaka, Mr. Phillip's station near +Mount Brown. Mr. Hodgkinson found a better crossing for the cart a little +north, and it arrived here in safety at 12.30 p.m.--they found a little +drinkable water last night. Kirby, with the sheep, got astray today but +was soon picked up again and brought to camp about sunset by Wylde and +Bell. + +Wednesday, December 25. + +Christmas Day; wind variable, principally from the south, but warm. +Natives were prowling in numbers about our camp late last night. I sent +up a rocket that exploded well and had the desired effect, causing a +general rush of the whole of the sable gentry towards their camp, which +latter in their fear did not check their mad career until they found +there was no pursuit; but today they again came up to our camp quite +unconcerned as if nothing had happened--better it should be so as no +doubt I shall find them of great use in pointing out the principal waters +within their knowledge. Spelling to recruit everybody and everything, and +hope to make a good start tomorrow morning. Had an excellent dinner of +roast mutton and plum pudding and did not envy anyone in the City of +Adelaide. + +Thursday, December 26. + +MK (conjoined), Decr. 23, 24, 25. Dig. Arrow at 7 o'clock. Documents +deposited for relief party under tree marked as above. Wind strong +south-south-east. All the animals right this morning; started the +bullocks and sheep at 7.45, rounding the north end of lake--my course is +right through it bearing 89 degrees for Lake Dhalinnie. At two and a half +miles came to creek that falls into this one we are now encamped on; go +up it half a mile north-east to cross it; sent the cart round by the +creek to be on level ground whilst I go direct to Dhalinnie. At four and +a half miles clear the lake, and at three and a half miles further arrive +at the Lake Dhalinnie--a treeless lake, fully a mile from north to south +and little better than half a mile from east to west. Appam Barra from +this bears 4 degrees, Cannboogonanni camp 269 degrees. Started at 10.11 +a.m. to meet the cart on a bearing of about 330 degrees to take them to +Appam Barra; meet the camp 10.30 and go on a bearing of 6 1/2 degrees for +Appam Barra at 10.40. After spelling ten minutes crossed creek at 11.53; +at 12.10 got to Appam Barra Creek, well filled with water, going +north-north-west from north-north-east, then round to south-south-east +and south, in the distance filling a few lakes in its course on coming +from the first quarter--a considerable number of natives here. Went on +the north-north-east course one and a quarter miles on bearing of 8 +degrees; camped immediately beyond where a branch leaves the main creek +going southward--a good-sized creek about, at its junction, seventy yards +wide and fifteen feet deep; main creek about one hundred yards wide and +twenty to twenty-five feet deep; lots of mussels, crayfish, and fish of +all sorts. No great abundance of feed here nor is the country so good as +has been passed, having a very desert and sterile appearance with a +jumble of sandhills, flooded land, and a considerable quantity of +samphire bushes, large saltbush, polygonum, and other shrubs. The natives +(a fine body of men) whether from curiosity or otherwise, were with much +difficulty got away from the camp at night. + +Friday, December 27. + +Wind north-east; the animals went straying some considerable distance and +were late in being recovered (4.30 p.m.) having gone back to last camp, +therefore we did not get a start today. Half of the horses broke and lost +their hobbles; and the loss of chains is serious as they cannot be +replaced here. + +Saturday, December 28. + +Not a breath of wind at daylight. Distributed yesterday to natives +(fifty-three) necklaces, etc.; there was a considerable number more men +present in the morning but they had gone somewhere before the +distribution. They are a splendid lot of people and in most excellent +condition, much better than the appearance of the country here would +warrant. They appear friendly but were about during last night. A large +flight of galahs just passing. Gulls, pigeons, and ducks of all sorts +abound. It was my intention to have taken the cart round to examine the +lakes and creeks east and south of my present position; but as the +sandhills are rather large and steep I will do it with the camels and +horses, and merely today take the cart to a better place for camping +during the time I am engaged at this work, and more on the course I wish +to follow after this part of the work is finished. Marked tree at camp MK +(conjoined), 26, 27-12-61. Horses, bullocks, camels, sheep all right, +although dropped a lame ewe heavy in lamb last night which has not yet +been recovered. Started at 7.30 and went round northward one mile and +crossed creek at four miles; got to a pretty little lake Wattiwidulo. +Abundance of good feed and water; natives round the lake; but on going +about half mile to top of a small sandhill I then had opened to my view +an extensive basin of water forming part of the lake continuing far off +to south-west by south. A splendid sheet of water which I have named Lake +Hodgkinson after my second in command. Course today 338 degrees. +Immediately on arrival here was completely besieged by the natives, male +and female, young and old, for beads for necklaces which I distributed as +far as they went, but it has much reduced my supply and leaves but a +scanty remnant for the next lot we meet, as meet them we surely will in +such a country as this, affording them as it does such a supply of food. +I will proceed with a couple of camels and some horses to the eastward a +short distance to examine some lakes and creeks reported to be in that +quarter, and will leave the remainder of the party in camp here till my +return. The country travelled over today though a short distance was very +good--plenty of grass on the sandhills of a good sort. Although that +veteran explorer Sturt must have passed not far from this in his last +attempt to gain the centre of the continent he reported to have only +fallen in with, or had reason to believe, there were but few natives. How +the large body of people that is scattered all over this part could have +escaped him I cannot account for. Go where you will you will find them in +groups of fifties and hundreds, and often many more, and generally a +jolly lot of fellows and all in capital condition. As has been noticed by +former explorers the females in number amongst the children are much +greater than the males, but neither very numerous. Amongst the adults +(both sexes) they knock out the four front teeth of the upper jaw; but +there are others both male and female that are quite perfect, more here +than noticed anywhere else on the journey. Killed a sheep on arrival here +today to jerk for our coming journey to the east, but was so fat that the +small flock had to be examined for a poorer one for that purpose. That +does not speak badly of the part of the country we are now in. + +Sunday, December 29. + +Camp at Wattiwidulo, or Lake Hodgkinson. Just where we are encamped by it +it does not appear to be deep, but to the south and west I fancy there is +a good deal of water. Wind south-west and exceedingly hot and sultry. In +the afternoon an old man arrived here from our old depot and reported +that a party of whites had arrived at the late depot with a number of +horses and were on their way this course from the settled districts. What +faith to put in the report it is difficult to say. Ready to start east in +the morning. + +Monday, December 30. + +Sky very much overcast and very sultry; wind from north-east. Started at +8.10 with two camels and five horses and a week's provisions. At four and +a half miles got to Appambarra, near old camp at the dray crossing. At +8.45 arrived at about one mile west of dry lake Toondowlowannie; centre +bearing of lake north and south, three miles, by a width east and west of +one and a half miles; well grassed. At ten and a quarter miles passed +south end of lake and travelled on flooded ground on west side of +Cariderro Creek, in which there is water, to where we cut the Cariderro +Creek, about sixteen miles, at a place in the creek where the large creek +branches off east and fills a large lake now dry; abundance of feed. Lake +called Marcourgannie and found water in creek--a short distance south, +from which quarter it appears to come--it is a splendid gum creek, from +eighty to one hundred yards wide and fifteen to twenty feet deep, and +flows a northward course. Started after spelling a time and went one and +a quarter miles on bearing of 239 degrees to Appadarannie, now a dry lake +with abundance of good feed in its bed; then went south by east eight +miles along the Cariderro Creek. It is a splendid one and well lined with +fine gumtrees, and as far as we went I may say was one continuous sheet +of water, and with not less than from 200 to 300 natives. I have named it +Browne Creek after W.H. Browne, Esquire. Many of the natives have +apparently quite white hair and beards; they were particularly anxious +that we should encamp with them; they were the first tribe that we fell +in with so fully armed, every man with a shield and a lot of boomerangs +and some with spears. I thought it better not to camp there as they had a +good deal of sneaking and concealing themselves from bush to bush, and +might have brought about a disturbance, which I did not desire. Took some +water in air bags and started out from the creek one and a quarter miles; +then on a bearing of 5 degrees for Appacalradillie lake, seven miles +fully. Crossed and camped on east corner of dry lake Marcourgannie, and +on the margin of the dry lake Merradaboodaboo; the bulk of this last lake +bearing north from this and splendidly grassed. + +Tuesday, December 31. + +Started at 6.30 a.m. to Appacalradillie lake, through side of Lake +Merradaboodaboo; passed several flooded flats proceeding east from +last-named dry lake--the first of which was an extensive one, passing on +our course from left round to the right and apparently round to south as +far as visible, then over alternate and indifferent flats and large +sandhills--a considerable deal of flooded land to the westward. At +fifteen miles arrived on top of a very prominent sandhill which I have +named Mount MacDonnell, from which hill opens out to our view two +beautiful lakes which, in honour of her Ladyship and His Excellency the +present Governor of South Australia, I have named respectively Lake +Blanche and Lake Sir Richard, separated by a small sandy rise through +which passes a small channel that connects them, and which I have named +New Year's Straits. + +Wednesday, January 1, 1862. + +Started at 6.45 round the first lake, Blanche (Lady MacDonnell) to where +the creek passes through a low sandhill and connects it with the other +lake, Sir Richard (His Excellency the Governor). The first-named of these +lakes is, where it was tried, between five and six feet deep and seven +and three-quarter miles in circumference, nearly circular, bare of +timber, and tens of thousands of pelicans on it, one solitary swan, with +innumerable other birds, gulls and ducks of various kinds (one new and +one dark brown large-winged), cormorants, avocats, white spoonbills, +crows, kites, pigeons and magpies of various kinds, and plenty of fish. +The other lake immediately adjoins and its south-east end is more to the +eastward than Lake Blanche, it is nearly circular and is six and +three-quarter miles in circumference, but when casually tried was not +quite five feet deep; pelicans, birds of kinds, fish, etc., as the other. +Between forty and fifty men (natives) came to meet us as we were passing +round the lakes at the creek, which they had all to swim and, from the +appearance of the camp some short distance off, there could not have been +less than about 150, all apparently friendly. Started from north-west end +of Lake Sir Richard and went along the course of the creek that fills +these lakes on a bearing of 305 degrees for ---- miles; then +south-south-west half a mile to a fine basin of water in the valley of +the creek, three-quarters of a mile wide and more than that in length, +and opening again and contracting alternately up to Lake Blanche which, +in honour of the veteran explorer, I have named Sturt's Ponds; abundance +of fish and fowls. From this point course 308 degrees up the creek for +four miles; at two miles a creek went off to the right through a flooded +flat, thence on a course varying from 224 to 239 degrees, principally +through what was recently a large lake--now a splendidly-grassed plain of +vast extent, and at the latter part a few small sandhills. Distance today +thirty-six miles. + +Thursday, January 2. + +At camp and keeping the New Year instead of yesterday. It is quite a +treat to sit on the banks of this fine sheet of water and look at the +innumerable waterfowl on its surface chasing their prey. + +Friday, January 3. + +Heavy dew. Started out this morning with two camels and five horses to +examine some lakes and creeks to west and south of this position; I take +with me Mr. Hodgkinson, Middleton, Wylde, and native. On my return intend +moving camp to north and east to where I saw the creek bearing off to the +right or north-east from about two miles north-west of Sturt's Ponds; +which creek I am led to believe runs off into the interior by north on +the round by west and south, passing my old depot, Lake Buchanan. On +second thoughts I have moved camp to a better place on this lake, north, +on the opposite side, where there is better shade, and the glare of the +sun less injurious to the eyes of the party than here. Marked tree MK +(conjoined) from 28-12-61, to 3-1-62, and started to examine the lakes +reported to be south and west. At six miles arrived on opposite side of +where we camped for the last few days, and estimate its circumference at +fifteen to sixteen miles, its greatest breadth two miles, its least about +600 yards--at a promontory that runs into it from the south-east side. A +large creek fills it from south-east, about two and a half to three miles +west-south-west from our New Year camp which I have named Hayward, after +Frederick Hayward, Esquire, of Aroona, South Australia--a deep swimmable +creek, well timbered, plenty of fish and fowls--then went southward to +Lake Wattygaroony, a fine deep lake which is named Lake Strangways after +the Honourable the Commissioner of Crown Lands. The creek that fills it +from the south and east I have called the Alfred. The lake is quite nine +miles in circumference; scant of timber; from the creek round south-west +end and side; abundance of feed, etc., from north side of lake and one +mile north-westerly of clearing it; our new camp on Lake Hodgkinson bears +71 degrees. About eight miles; returned to camp same day. + +Saturday, January 4. + +Camp, Lake Hodgkinson. Shoeing horses, repairing pack-bags, etc. + +Sunday, January 5. + +I, with Poole and a black, went out north to see what the country was +like. On bearing 360 degrees over sandhills arrived at and found lake +dry; four and a half miles of stones around it, same as in stony desert; +went through the middle of it, it sweeps round from north-east to +south-west; passed through it where it was two miles broad, it is fed +from Lake Goonalcarae (now dry); the lake passed through has not had a +supply of water for years apparently; lots of dead mussels and crayfish +in its bed. At two and a half miles further (nine miles in all) over +sandhills, changed course to 16 degrees for a large sandhill in the +distance, the country to the north being rather low. At two and a half +miles on this course came upon a succession of flooded basins, some of +great extent, Gnatowullie, and slightly lined with stunted box, some as +high up the sides of the sandhills as forty-five to fifty feet, entirely +supplied by the rains but have not had a supply for some time, as there +was neither water nor vegetation; which flooded basins continued till I +went nine miles on this last course and from the top of the hill could +distinctly see the beds of innumerable others of the same kind. From west +round to north-east and east some dark-peaked sandhills, north-east of +last course, as far as I could discern with the aid of a glass; turned +back on course of 200 degrees to where I saw some shady box trees about +two and a half miles, and turned out horses to rest and went to camp +direct. On bearing of 187 degrees at five and a half miles came to the +watercourse that supplies the dry lake Marroboothana from Goonalcarae, +which I have named the Ellar, and the creek that fills it, in which there +is at present water, Ellar's Creek. + + +Monday, January 6. + +Marked tree MK (conjoined), from 3 to 6-62, Dig arrow at 7 o'clock, and +deposited a document in tin envelope for the search parties from the +north coast. Started at 6.30 with the bullock-cart, the horses and camels +following, for Lakes Lady Blanche and Sir Richard, for the purpose of +following the creek I observed when there the other day, and which the +natives inform me goes northward, then westward and southward, through +the stony desert. Arrived about 3.30 by rather a circuitous route to the +northward of our proper course, but was guided that way to avoid many +heavy sandhills. Distance between twenty-two and twenty-three miles. + +Tuesday, January 7. + +At Lake Blanche; went out north with Mr. Hodgkinson and native to examine +the creek alluded to, but to my disappointment found that it only formed +a large valley and, at some distance on a dry lake, Millie Millie, to the +eastward of Lake Sir Richard, over some high sandhills; returned very +much chagrined and have made up my mind to stay here a short time, +although very poor shelter from the excessive heat of the sun (today even +it blows as if from a furnace) and endeavour with the camels to ascertain +the description of country first to the east, and probably also from +here, if the camels will stand it, to the north; from the appearance of +the country about here I do not expect any water at least for some +distance; the land low, hills between the two lakes and running northward +for some five or six miles have just the appearance of dirty drift snow +heaps with heath bushes protruding; whereas those round to north-east, +east, south, and south-east are a glaring red, with coarse grass and +shrubs. Shortly after my return today a number of natives got the +bullocks on the east side of the creek New Year Straits, about two and a +half miles from camp and raced them round Lake Blanche from us in sight; +on seeing which five of the party got mounted and armed and went after +them; they had taken the bullocks two-thirds of the way round the lake +and by some means they broke back from them; they did their best to +overtake and turn them again for about two or three miles; when they +observed the horsemen they immediately took to flight, and where shelter +was so abundant, of course, were immediately out of reach and sight of +the horsemen. What their intentions were was difficult to say but it +looked rather suspicious; took the bullocks to camp late and hobbled most +of them. The evening before leaving Lake Hodgkinson, about 8.30 p.m., +they took both horses and bullocks and raced them round from us for about +three miles but were pursued on foot by three of the party who succeeded +in getting all the bullocks and horses after having broken three-fourths +of their chains, and were in a very excited state, nor could the horses +be quieted for more than two hours afterwards, but the wary savage was +nowhere to be seen. + +Wednesday, January 8. + +Moved camp about three-quarters of a mile to a little wood and camped. +Fearfully hot, wind east-north-east. + +Thursday, January 9. + +Camp, Lake Blanche, between the two lakes, where one would imagine the +breeze from such a body of water would render the air cool, but the heat +is almost intolerable. Wind from east-north-east to east-south-east blew +quite a gale in the night, levelling tents, etc., to the earth, +accompanied with a good deal of thunder and lightning and slight spitting +of rain for a few minutes, when it ceased. The gale kept on for two and a +half hours and gradually died away. + +Friday, January 10. + +Camp, Lake Blanche. One would suppose that after so much thunder and +lightning the air would be more pure and cool, but nothing of the kind +was apparent, nothing but intense heat, prostrating all the animals. +Horses and sheep taking refuge from the intense rays of the sun round and +under such bushes or trees they could get till the cool of the evening. +Wind light easterly. I sincerely wish we had a change of the weather, +warmer it cannot get, so that the change must be for the better, and +enable us to be doing something. This is far from the most agreeable +position for a camp for, although we have any quantity of water, we have +no shade, and the glare reflected from the low light-coloured sandhills +and flats is very trying to the eyes; even the natives who are a numerous +body here (150 to 200) scarcely stir out, except morning and evening for +fishing, fish being their chief sustenance with addo, Burke's nardoo. + +Saturday, January 11. + +Sun rose red as a ball of fire. We had a magnificent sunset last night; +wind chopping all round the compass; intense heat; fleecy clouds. + +Sunday, January 12. + +Camp, Lake Blanche. Before daylight a considerable deal of thunder and +lightning. Squally but passed off without any rain. Cloudy during the +day. Wind from all quarters, heat intense, and sultry towards evening, +threatened much for rain; wind from east to north-east, accompanied with +thunder and lightning. I sincerely trust that we may have a good fall of +it, if it comes at all. Rain all blew past and wind chopping in all +directions. + +Monday, January 13. + +Wind from all quarters but rather more cool than for the last few days. +If nothing particular occurs before tomorrow morning will make a start +out eastward for fifty or sixty miles to see what sort of country it is, +and if there is any main creek running north up through it. It is very +calm towards evening with heavy clouds all round the horizon. + +Tuesday, January 14. + +Eastward today over undulations, sandhills, claypans, and flats for +nineteen miles till we reached a very prominent high hill which I have +called Mount Wylde. A considerable range is visible to east and south of +east. Went on for seven miles further over sand ridges covered with +spinifex, successive box-covered flooded flats, formed by heavy rains, +through which were innumerable small creeks no doubt in heavy rains +forming source or tributaries to Cooper's Creek. Took the horses out this +morning to make the work lighter for the camels on the march. Sent the +horses back again this afternoon; gave the camels from three to four +gallons of water each--they appeared as if they could have drunk all that +we possessed. Distance travelled today about twenty-six miles. East in +the far distance I can trace the continuance of the range. + +Wednesday, January 15. + +Every appearance of a hot day. Followed over hard sand undulations, +well-grassed with some little spinifex intermixed, with a creek on our +left, and crossed it at eight miles going south-east then apparently +south--gum and box on creek and a sandy bed. We then passed over some +good grassed country with stony flats and latterly a stony sandhill, the +ascent difficult for the camels on account of the sharp stones for ten +miles; distance making in all eighteen miles. Low hills about six or +seven miles ahead running north and south; nothing very marked about +them. The heat fearful; camels not doing so well as I could wish so will +give them all the water that is to spare and proceed towards camp this +evening in the cool--they won't feed nor stay without constant watching. +Started back at 8.30 p.m. Went first to the south of west to avoid a +stony hill by going round a valley then went on for about fifteen miles. + +Thursday, January 16. + +Started at 6 a.m., then bore for Mount Wylde. The greater portion of last +night's and today's journey was over spinifex country. Passed immediately +after starting a couple of creeks, drainage to the north--whether they +continued that course and gradually swerved to the east and joined a +larger one under the main range to east and formed one and passed on to +the southward to Cooper's Creek, or formed rainwater lakes (vast numbers +of them here and well timbered and often visited by natives) I cannot +pretend to say. From Mount Wylde came in on the lakes on our outward +track and arrived at camp at 2 p.m. Found some of the party, namely Bell, +Davis, and Maitland, laid up with dysentery, the former seriously. Have +made up my mind to leave this after one day's spell for the camels and go +back to different water, as this must contain some medicinal properties +that I am ignorant of, and affects all of us more or less; no doubt the +weather has a good deal to do with it--the heat is fearful. + +Friday, January 17. + +Wind east by north. If nothing particular occurs will start from this in +the morning as I see nothing can be done here but going north for some +distance, and that I can do from where I proceed tomorrow as well as from +here, and with better water for the party. Excessively hot and sultry +today and very cloudy. We have more or less lightning every day or night +and it appears occasionally to be raining all round us but never gives us +a benefit. Blew strong from south-east all night. Marked tree MK +(conjoined), fm. 6 to 18-1-62. + +Saturday, January 18. + +Wind from south-east. Bell very little improved, the rest much better. +Bullocks up and yoked before sunrise. It appears to be gathering all +round for rain but as usual I suppose will pass off without our being +favoured with any. The natives lately have hardly ever visited the camp; +I suppose their curiosity was satiated after the first few days, and when +they found they could not drive off the animals without being heard or +observed, and the probable consequences, they thought proper to keep +aloof. Start this morning for Goonalcarae Creek, or Ellar's Creek, where +there is abundance of fine feed, water, and protection from the excessive +heat of the sun. Bullocks start at 7 a.m.; passed on our right the +recently-dried bed of a very nice lake, and so deceptive was it from its +appearance some distance off that even the natives insisted that there +was still water in it, but there was not any. The lake I have called +Deception--it is a nice lake and retains water for a very long time. I +pushed on through the flooded and well-grassed bed of Goonalcarae, or +Ellar's Swamp. First went on a westerly course then on a southerly to the +creek, but did not admire the water which was neither abundant nor sweet, +although there were innumerable birds and some natives there. Went on to +Lake Hodgkinson and was astonished to find it so much dried up in only +twelve days, that being the time since we left it, and the water now +quite bitter; then went on to Hayward's Creek that fills Lake Hodgkinson, +and there found abundance of everything that we required--feed, water, +wood, and shelter from the broiling sun. The dray did not get this length +but camped on east end of lake, and obtaining for their use water, by +digging, at four feet from the surface, good and clear; the cart will +come on here in the morning and I shall remain here till there is a +change in the weather as it is fearfully trying; there has been a shower +on our course since we passed on our way to Lakes Blanche and Sir +Richard, but nothing of any consequence. The horses were more done up +today than I have yet seen them from the oppressive heat. + +Sunday, January 19. + +Dray came in about noon; a considerable number of natives here on creek. + +Monday, January 20. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek; wind very strong from north-east to south-east. + +Tuesday, January 21. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek; wind chopping all round; heavy rain apparently to +the north and north-east, but little of it came this way; gave the native +who has been with us so long an old ewe to distribute amongst his +friends. + +Wednesday, January 22. + +At daylight a Scotch mist from south; by 7 a.m. it came on a steady rain +and lasted till 8.15 a.m., when it cleared off, still appearing to rain +to north-east and west of this. Clear to the south with the wind from +latter quarter; during remainder of the day weather cleared up in all +quarters with a south wind, although a good many clouds are flying about. +Went round the lake to see what quantity of water was likely to be in the +claypans where it fell the heaviest yesterday; there is not so much as I +expected but still I will start out north tomorrow to ascertain the +nature of the country and see if there be any watercourse in that +direction that may hereafter be of use to parties wishing to pass to the +north coast; but from what I saw to the east, and the country between +that and this, I have very little hope of anything of the kind, but +believe there is a creek to the westward of this that either comes from +or goes to a latitude beyond and east of Sturt's furthest. + +Thursday, January 23. + +Started out at 11.30 a.m.; got to the top of a sandhill on north side of +Lake Hodgkinson about six miles from camp; camp bearing about 175 +degrees; passed (dry) Lake Marraboothana; then through flats and basins, +a large one cutting our course. Changed course and came to a dry creek +called Pantyhwurladgie; then on a bearing of 284 degrees over stony +desert for a large sandhill; a little water back about two miles from +whence we shall have to send for it amongst the stones. Total distance +travelled about thirty-three miles; to the north-east and south all +stones, but sandhills bound the two latter quarters; beyond the +termination of large sandhill there is nothing visible. To the west is a +succession of sandhills running north and south, and terminating in +desert and stony plains. Round to 348 degrees; in the distance are to be +seen some terminations of inconsiderable sandhills. + +Friday, January 24. + +The country being short of water I merely go out today to return +tomorrow; leaving here all the rations I intended for the journey +northward, which for the present I had abandoned with the intention at a +more suitable time to try it. Natives are with me but they declare it to +be all dry; but I cannot rely on their statements at all times. The +water, our supply for today, is about two miles off in the desert; our +journey being over a succession of very high sandhills and stony flooded +flats; skirting, for the first three-quarters of an hour, the desert to +this spot, with a large red-topped sandhill on our right which terminates +close by; have not seen a drop of water during the day and camp without +it. I return tomorrow early for the last water which will be nearly dried +up by the time I reach it. Distance travelled today twenty-four miles. +Tops of all the hills to north-east and east are very red, quite free +from vegetation on tops and some with spinifex on their sides. To north, +termination of sandhills with stony flats; north-west, unbroken horizon; +from west-north-west round towards south-west a sandhill in the distance; +altogether a dreary spot. A heavy-timbered creek comes in from south-west +into the desert and appears in the distance to have a tributary from +east-south-east; the timber ceases as it comes on to the open desert +plain between four and five miles from this. Quite an unbroken horizon to +the west of north-west for some distance. The sandhills that are in view +are small and detached. + +Saturday, January 25. + +Started back and got to water just in time to give the horses about half +as much as they could drink and a little for ourselves; rapid evaporation +has taken place since we left yesterday, for then there was enough for +100 horses, now there is not half enough for our eight; so must make for +one of the permanent waters south of this tomorrow; have to close-hobble +our horses and tie their heads down to them to prevent them straying too +far. Strong breeze from the southward. + +Sunday, January 26. + +Started at 7 a.m. for Coonhadie, a rainwater watering-place in desert, +but found it quite dry; start for camp, Hayward's Creek, and arrived at 1 +p.m.; distance about twenty-nine and a quarter miles direct from place to +place, but we made it more, being obliged to go round to avoid sandhills +and rounding Lake Hodgkinson. The horses stood much in need of water and +seemed to enjoy it much, from quantity they drank and the time they took +about it. It was fortunate for us that the weather was cool for the +season of the year. Wind south and east; found all right at the camp and +the men that were ailing much improved. The water in the creek is +diminishing gradually, about three-quarters of an inch per day. + +Monday, January 27. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind easterly. Natives very much displeased at our +remaining here but until the weather suits my purpose better than it does +at present they must put up with it. + +Tuesday, January 28. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind east and south, very hot. Several of the +party still complaining, the cause of which is difficult to say as the +water in the creek appears good and there is plenty of it. The water in +the creek is between five and six miles long. There is a lake or swamp +rapidly drying up close by, from which there is a very disagreeable odour +when the wind is from that quarter; the ailing may proceed from the +malaria arising from that place; other waters in the immediate +neighbourhood drying up fast. Natives in a great state of excitement +today, wishing to inform me that the flood, or arimitha, was coming down +and that we must get out of this or we should be drowned (I only wish it +would come) stating that it had now reached as far as a place I know +well, so tomorrow will make it my business to ride over that length to +the south and east to Browne's Creek to ascertain the truth or otherwise +of this information. + +Wednesday, January 29. + +Wind north and east. Started with Middleton to ascertain if the flood is +really coming down or not; followed this creek round my way and was quite +astonished at the number of natives I saw--they must have been +considerably over three hundred--and I am satisfied that I did not see +them all as I did not go quite up to their camp; we had no conception +that there were any such numbers so close to us, a distance of only some +six or seven miles. There are myriads of fish of various kinds. There was +a camp close by till yesterday, within less than half a mile, but I never +saw more than one hundred in it at one time--averaging from forty to +sixty. They pass our camp with their nets to drag the creek between this +and the lake, and come back loaded with the denizens of the creek; they +are not at all liberal with them. I should be sorry to trust to their +hospitality or generosity as I think they possess but little of either of +those qualities. Arrived at Browne's Creek, at the place named by natives +for the arrival of the flood, but found their tale false--they saw me on +my way there and I suppose knew my errand--some of shallowest waters in +the upper holes of the creek had dried up since I saw them last but there +is abundance lower down. + +Thursday, January 30. + +Wind east. Camp, Hayward's Creek. Natives kept much aloof today, I +suppose in consequence of my finding their piece of gratuitous +information false. Self and all the party affected with griping and +vomiting with the exception of Middleton and Davis. Cannot make out the +cause; I wish it would rain that I could start through the desert out of +this and get on to the waters to north and west of this, and be doing +something, as this sort of life is worse than hard work on the +constitution. There is one thing, this detention here has enabled us to +have the backs of the working animals attended to better than we could +otherwise have done, and they are all on splendid feed, but the flies and +excessive heat of the sun is very much against the healing of any kind of +sores or wounds. I had occasion to bleed several of the horses and, from +the mere incision caused by the fleam, the necks of several swelled up +very much although every precaution was adopted. + +Friday, January 31. + +Started out to pick an easy track for the cart towards Moolianbrooana +Lake; found a pretty good one on to the old cart tracks which will do; +went then to ascertain how the waters were standing in Caunboogonannie, +or Lake Jeannie, and found that, although there was still a very +considerable quantity in the lake from the vast number of waterfowl upon +it, and perhaps other causes, it had acquired a disagreeable taste, and I +have no doubt that it will get quite unfit for use in a month or so if it +does not receive a fresh supply during that time. From a hole dug about +eighteen inches from the water's edge I had a drink and a pot of tea of +excellent water; lots of natives round and in the lake, although round +the margin I observed innumerable small fish (parrow) dead, washed in by +the wind and ripple of the lake. Our horses did not seem to admire the +water but that I am not astonished at. + +Saturday, February 1. + +Hayward's Creek. Wind east; party still ailing. + +Sunday, February 2. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek. Some of party better and some worse. Wind +easterly. + +Monday, February 3. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind easterly; digging a well, in case the origin +of our sickness be caused by the water in the creek. + +Tuesday, February 4. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind north and gusty with hot puffs. Got the well +down about fifteen feet; the lower part, for about seven or eight feet, +chiefly through sand; abundance of water but salt to the taste and I +think unfit for use. Had it emptied out when it soon filled; the water +continues salt and lathers well with soap and can wash well; it cannot be +used by us although the natives don't despise it. + +Wednesday, February 5. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind from east and west of north during the +morning with hot gusts, very oppressive. + +Thursday, February 6. + +Camp, at Hayward's Creek. Wind north till late in the afternoon with some +thunder and lightning and a good many clouds; appears in the distance to +be raining in patches, but I have so often been deceived that I now take +less notice of appearances of that kind; late in the afternoon the wind +chopped round to south. Has been very hot and sultry all day. Intend in +the morning to send Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton to Lake Goonaidringinnie +to ascertain for certain if that lake still contains abundance of water, +and good, as I think it does--and on the way to pass and examine Lake +Moolionboorana to see if it will suit as a stage to camp at on our +journey to Goonaidringinne, as it was not very deep when I was there last +and I have my doubts about it. The natives report a considerable quantity +of rain to have fallen to the east and towards north-east in the country +north of Lakes Blanche and MacDonnell or Appacalradillie. If so I wish it +had fallen when I was there that I might have been able to have examined +the country there thoroughly. + +Friday, February 7. + +Started Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton to Lake Goonaidringinnie. Wind from +all points of compass with many clouds; weather disagreeable and sultry +during the day; rained steadily once or twice during the night with a +good deal of thunder and lightning in the distance; much rain must have +fallen to east and north of east as well as to the south. + +Saturday, February 8. + +Splendid rain and steady. Thundering all round with every appearance of a +considerable quantity of rain which will, I trust, come in such abundance +as to enable me to push to the north-west across the desert, as up to +this time I have been completely shut up, as it were, here for want of a +decent shower to enable me to do anything of service anywhere; and the +provisions gradually getting less although the ration is now as low as I +can well make it. I have reduced it first from 8 pounds of flour per man +per week to 7 pounds, then to 6 pounds, then to 4 1/2 pounds; sugar +reduced from 2 pounds per man per week to 1 1/2 pounds; and tea from 4 +ounces to 3 ounces per man per week, with plenty of good mutton; but we +find the supply of flour very scanty at the 4 1/2 pounds. There has been +a good deal of loss in weight in the bags of flour, as much as 9 pounds +per 100 pounds; and a great portion of it had a most disagreeable taste +and flavour from some naphtha, or some such liquid, having been +carelessly allowed to be spilt over it on its way, I understand, from +Port Augusta to Blanchewater; and I attribute the whole of the illness of +the party to the use of the flour saturated as it is by this rascally +stuff. In the afternoon Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton returned; they +report having seen a considerable quantity of rainwater about thirteen +miles this side of Lake Goonaidringinnie, and plenty of water in that +lake and good; also plenty of natives on its banks. Lake Moolionboorana +very much reduced and unfit for my purpose. Heavy rain all through the +night with heavy thunder and lightnings. I have now abandoned the idea of +going to Goonaidringinnie and will start towards Eyre's Creek, passing or +following, at some seventy miles from this, a large creek named by the +natives here Panbacra. + +Sunday, February 9. + +Still raining a little and the ground too soft to travel over but, if +much more does not fall, will start in the morning. The rain that has +fallen is quite a godsend, both to this party and to the natives who have +started off to the sandhills in all directions to obtain the lizards and +other animals that escape to the sandhills for protection from the +floods. + +Monday, February 10. + +Started the cart at 7.50 a.m., and horses and camels to start afterwards +for Wattiegoroonita. Passed over sandhills to top of a sandhill that +rounds the lake, and over alternate sandhills and bare flats for nine and +a half miles, passing at about six miles on the last course a small salt +lake; travelled on the north-east side of it as it was boggy. The lake is +called Warmagoladhailie. The ground very soft and heavy travelling. +Travelled along the sand ranges and over spinifex and stony flooded +flats, then over one small sandhill and stony desert. Camped at a few +bushes to boil the teakettle, there being not a blade of grass; but a few +saltbushes are near which the animals must do the best with for one +night. Astonishing the small quantity of water passed for the last eight +or nine miles. Distance travelled today twenty-four miles. The natives +are out here looking for the snakes and other small reptiles and animals +that live in the sandhills everywhere in this quarter whether hot or +cold, regardless of the want of water. This is a most dismal-looking +camp; there are a few isolated sandhills north and west of this. Cart and +sheep not up tonight. + +Tuesday, February 11. + +The cart did not arrive last night as above-mentioned for the reason that +one of the bullocks was taken with the staggers. They camped about two +and a half miles back and arrived here this morning at 5.45 a.m.; turned +the bullocks out for a time to get a drink and pick a few bushes, and +started again at 7.48. Travelled for nine miles over desert stony plains +and got to top of large sandhill. This hill is called Cannacannanthainya. +Some distance off another sandhill called Mallapoorponannie; and another +not quite so far called Cookorda. Another long leading sand range in the +distance called Goontyaerie, at the northern termination of which is at +present a dry creek known by the above name. There is a native well there +and another a little further west. To give the ailing bullock, as he is a +good one, a chance of recruiting, I have dipped down the sandhill and +camped at 11.35 a.m., and for another reason, it looks like rain. During +the afternoon several nice showers. + +Wednesday, February 12. + +Steady rain for about four hours last night and this morning breaks fine +and clear with a wind north. Plenty of water lying all over the desert. +Dray started at 7.40 a.m. and at six and three-quarter miles distant got +to Mallapoorponannie sand range, the southern end of which is called +Cookorda; about two miles off its northern end dwindles down to nothing +in the desert. To the northern end of Coontarie sand range a creek and +well by the same name; about twelve miles off a detached sand range in +the desert, at the north-west end of which are two waters named +respectively Dhooramoorco and Moongaara; also on north-east side of sand +range another water in creek called Caddryyerra, also a sand range about +four to five miles distant. There was a number of small detached +sandhills going round to the westward, then a perfect blank round to +Coontarie well. At about three to four miles struck the flooded flat from +the main creek I am now going to. At eleven and a half miles further came +to and crossed a deep creek crossing my course at rightangles. At two +miles further came to water in Daeragolie Creek, same creek that I +crossed before two miles from this; within this last two miles the whole +flat is cut up into innumerable channels most difficult to travel over, I +must therefore see and get a better road for the cart. Here there is not +a green blade of grass to be seen; there are some green shrubs in the bed +of the creek that the camels are fond of. I arrived at this camp at 2.5 +p.m.; distance travelled today twenty-three and a half miles. This is an +immense creek, timbered on its bank with box, bean, and other trees, the +water is in detached holes but good and apparently plenty of fish and +ducks. No natives seen yet although their tracks are fresh; the natives +that are with me say a number of them have taken advantage of the rain +lately fallen and gone out to the sandhills on both sides of this creek. +By native report the creek flows just here south and east, but within two +miles from this it turns quite round by south-west and west, passing +Coontarie. Neither cart nor sheep arrived in camp tonight. + +Thursday, February 13. + +The cart on its way here this morning had an upset in one of the creeks +close by but fortunately little damage done. The road it appears to me +from this on our course is much better than we have come over, if so we +shall make good speed. I spell the remainder of today refreshing the +animals. This creek is about eighty to ninety yards wide, very +precipitous banks, and from fifty to sixty feet deep, with innumerable +small creeks. About 400 yards from this, above us, a large creek leaves +this one, heavily timbered and well-defined. Limestone crops out in many +places. It is from fifty to seventy yards wide and from fifteen to thirty +feet deep. It sweeps away to the west and south, close under some +sand-ridges that are close by. Wind from south and west, very sultry. +There has been a good deal of rain here lately (and from the appearance +of the country there has been none for some time previously). Nothing +green except in the bed of the creek and the trees. The whole country +looks as if it had been carefully ploughed, harrowed, and finally rolled, +the farmer having omitted the seed. Two natives came into our camp at +dark, apparently without any fear, and stayed with us for the night. + +Friday, February 14. + +Started at 8 a.m. On the west side of the creek Panbaera a large creek +leaves it at about 400 yards from camp, and the ground heavy, with +intense heat. I camped after a journey of fifteen and a half miles on +same side of creek, close to a deep waterhole in the creek. Name of creek +Toomathooganie. Immediately above the camp on opposite side of creek a +large red sandhill comes right on to creek called Manganhoonie, from the +top of which one gets an extensive view of such country as there is, the +creek in the distance, north, it filling the valley with its timber +bearing 340 degrees. On our way here today, about three miles from camp, +passed the remains of Burke's horse and saddle; they were recognised as +his by camel dung being about the camp. No marks on any of the trees +visible. Camel dung also close to our camp. Another of our best bullocks +was obliged to be left, having been struck down with the sun as the other +was a few days ago. Cart late in arrival at camp in consequence. One of +our natives took French leave immediately after getting to camp; the +other tried hard also but was too closely watched. + +Saturday, February 15. + +Started some hands back to see if the bullock was still alive, if so and +unable to travel, to kill him and have him jerked, and if dead to have +him skinned. They brought back word that he was still alive and might get +over it. Late getting ready to start owing to the uncertainty whether the +bullock was to be jerked or not. Bullocks started at 10.35 a.m., and if I +get feed must make a short day of it. If the road keeps as heavy as it +has done since coming to this creek I shall have to abandon the cart, +which for many reasons I shall regret. Wind north and disagreeable. Got +to camp at five miles bearing 337 degrees. The heat so oppressive +travelling completely out of the question. Will leave the cart and many +sundries here. Seized with a violent attack of dysentery. Our remaining +native quite broken-hearted at losing the other, shall be obliged to let +him go this afternoon; it is a pity as he would have been of much service +in giving me the names of the different waters and places which to +someone in future might be of much use. However I may get another if I +soon meet with other natives; but unfortunately at present, from the rain +that has lately fallen, they have principally left the creek and gone to +the sandhills. Their habitations are very numerous on the creek so they +must be pretty strong in number here. Lots of fish still in the holes; +appear to be multa multa principally. We got some from the two natives at +our first camp on the creek, and lots of mussel shells about their old +fires. + +Sunday, February 16. + +In camp, very ill. + +Monday, February 17. + +In camp, very ill; still getting the gear ready for tomorrow, if I am +able to start--pain slightly gone. Had the curiosity to weigh and found I +had lost fourteen pounds in three days from the violence of the attack; +when I left town I weighed fifteen stone eleven pounds, now I weigh +exactly twelve stone. Clear but excessively hot with occasionally a +little thunder and some showers this morning, and it looked as if we were +going to have it heavy but it passed off. + +Tuesday, February 18. + +With one thing and the other, and one of the bullocks absent, was late at +starting. Pain gone today but excessively weak. Started at 11.30, course +340 degrees; flooded box-cracked land for one mile. At seven and a half +miles further passing over bare mud plain destitute of any vegetation, +with a couple of sandhills and the main creek beyond them to the east. On +this distance half a mile off is the bed of a large creek flowing to the +south and west, no water at present in it. Close to this point one of our +best bullocks was struck dead with the heat of the sun walking leisurely +along carrying nothing; the rest of the party were much in advance and, +as it was such a fearfully hot day and not a drop of water near, nothing +could be done with the flesh of him unfortunately. At five miles further +came to a large deep creek flowing westward, no water in it. Up to this +point was to be seen in the distance westward apparent breaks in the +sandhills with box timber in each; and I have no doubt many of those +places form into large creeks by the terrific overflow of this main +creek. At one mile further on (340 degrees) crossing this creek on to top +of sandhill, changed course to 38 degrees, the creek from the sandhill +bearing considerably eastward. At two and a quarter miles over flooded +flats and at some rainwater where I afterwards camped; at two miles +further struck the creek but not a drop of water; searched up and down +for some distance but none to be found, so returned to the rainwater two +miles back from the creek, where fortunately there was sufficient for all +the animals. The flood here, when it does occur, fills the whole valley +between the sandhills on either side of the creek, and after such +occasions must appear a splendid country; but at present no country could +possibly look more desolate. This cannot possibly be Eyre's Creek as it +is much larger in the first place, and seems to bear away too much to the +east ever to be a continuation of Sturt's Eyre's Creek. Traces of Burke's +camels and horses are still to be seen on the creek; I fancy on his +return from the Gulf. I feel very ill this evening, hardly able to sit in +the saddle. + +Wednesday, February 19. + +Sent Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton off up the creek to search for water, +and Middleton to return after travelling about eight miles if successful +in finding a supply to enable us to proceed further up the creek; +Hodgkinson to go further on and examine the creek and return in the +afternoon to where it was arranged we should camp. Middleton returned +about noon with the intelligence that about seven miles up there was +abundance of water in the creek for our immediate wants; so we started +late in the afternoon as the distance was short and the day fearfully +hot, bearing of 350 degrees for four and a half miles, the creek +appearing to bear too much east, change course to 360 degrees for two and +a quarter miles further, and it getting late changed course straight on +for the creek, bearing of 37 1/2 degrees for three-quarters of a mile, +where I struck the creek with a little salt water in its bed; down the +creek from this about half a mile is the water, and where we afterwards +camped but without knowing (in the absence of Middleton, who was seized +with a violent illness on the way here and did not get to the camp at all +during the night). I went up the creek for two and a half miles, found it +dry, and returned to water and camped. + +Thursday, February 20. + +Camp on east side of creek where the latter is upwards of 180 yards wide +and about 80 feet deep, western banks very inaccessible, the east bank +where we have camped less so with immense polygonum bushes. Very unwell +still; we were not aware of the cause of Middleton's detention with the +camels, on which was the food, till he and Davis made their appearance +after the morning had somewhat advanced, when they arrived and explained +the cause; Middleton was very ill indeed of dysentery and could scarcely +crawl. + +Friday, February 21. + +In camp; I feel a little better, Middleton still very unwell; miserable +camp but can't help it. + +Saturday, February 22. + +Started Mr. Hodgkinson and Bell out on the west side of the creek to +examine ranges that appear stony in the distance, and ascertain if this +creek receives any tributary from the westward of north-north-west likely +to be Eyre's Creek, as there is no doubt this is not it, and return by +this creek to ascertain how the water lies in it. I am much better today +and Middleton appears to be on the change for the better; wind south with +a few clouds. + +Sunday, February 23. + +Middleton improving; I feel much better, so much so that, as there is a +cool breeze from the south, I am induced to ride out to the eastward to +examine the country between this and the stony hills visible from here on +the east side of the creek; went four and a half miles course 135 +degrees, over flooded flats and a couple of sandhills, from top of the +highest sandhill changed course to 113 degrees for two and a quarter +miles to top of another larger sandhill, passing one other in my course, +then on bearing of 15 degrees for six and three-quarter miles over +flooded flats with a few smaller sandhills, but soon terminate on both +sides of my course; the current over this tract of flat being to the +south of east, then three-quarters of a mile on bearing of 15 degrees +over one sandhill to top of rocky hill, from which the flooded flat I +have just passed gathers together in the distance to a creek, and goes +off on course of 155 degrees, and no doubt is the feeder of the waters +now in the creek to south and east of our present camp namely +Barrawarkanya, Marroboolyooroo, Cadityrrie, Meincounyannie, and Gnappa +Muntra; then two and a quarter miles on bearing of 10 degrees to top of +sandy and stony hill, with four or five mallee trees and a few other +shrubs; marked one of the mallee trees. From this hill the creek passed +end of table-topped stone range on bearing from six to nine miles distant +north-west and round northward to east, peaks and hills of stone with +intervening flats, some of earth, others of stone, are visible as far as +eye can reach; from this hill our present camp bears about 227 1/2 +degrees and distant about eleven and a half miles. In the evening Mr. +Hodgkinson and Bell returned having examined the hilly country, but could +find no tributary joining the creek; saw water up some distance that will +suit our purpose so far. I will in a day or two ride over to Eyre's Creek +and ascertain if either of the northern search parties have got there +yet, and deposit a memorandum for them there and see if a route be +practicable westward to Stuart's country now, or if I shall have to wait +for more rain: although we had such nice rain coming over the desert the +excessive heat has absorbed most of it, and you may travel a day without +seeing a drop; intend starting up the creek in the morning. Middleton +much better. Mr. Hodgkinson saw one native and his lubra up the creek but +had little conversation. + +Monday, February 24. + +Camped; the bullocks not found till too late to start. Mr. Hodgkinson +tendered his resignation as second in command which I accepted, and from +this date he holds no longer any position as officer in the party under +my guidance. Poole had a sun-stroke during the day whilst out after the +horses, but by cold application to the head he soon recovered. + +Tuesday, February 25. + +Rather late getting the animals ready for a start, the feed being so +scant; started on bearing of 40 degrees, on same side of creek as that on +which we were encamped, over flooded flats and sandy terminations: at +five and three-quarter miles passed along and crossed a large deep creek +in which there was a little water and a number of native wurlies. Course +of creek nearly north and south, at seven and a quarter miles further +over some abrupt sandhills, the summits of which had an almost +perpendicular wall of pure drift sand, varying from two and a half feet +to five feet in height and very difficult for the animals to get over, +and flooded flats on same bearing; then changed course to 34 degrees for +four and a half miles over similar country mixed with stone hills and +flats, the creek being a long way to the west but now gradually +approaching our course; then changed course to 14 degrees for one and +one-sixth of a mile to creek, where luckily we found sufficient water for +all purposes and in the bed of the creek a better supply of green grass +for the animals than they have had for some time. Cloudy, wind +north-east. The bullocks have not arrived tonight. + +Wednesday, February 26. + +Cloudy and threatening for rain; wind north-east. At 9.30 a.m. one of the +men from the bullocks arrived and informed me that one of the pack +bullocks had dropped and was killed to endeavour to make some use of his +flesh. This is the same that had the sunstroke first but was apparently +recovering; and another of our very best and generally quietest had that +day bucked so much in endeavouring to get rid of his saddle that he +disabled himself, fell down, and could not be got up; the remainder of +the bullocks went off to feed but there he was where he fell in the +morning beside his pack. Immediately on hearing of this disaster I +forwarded some hands and packhorses out to convey to camp what was +thought to be of any use. It has commenced raining and what little will +be got cannot, I am afraid, be cured, as there is every appearance of a +continuation of rain and there will be no chance of drying the flesh as +we have no salt. If it was fair weather I would kill at once the disabled +also, and have his flesh dried; but it would be no use at present and he +may be able to get up after a spell and come in this length when, if the +weather prove favourable, I will have him killed and jerked. The +remainder of the bullocks (seven) arrived during the day and the +detachment of the party with what was thought of use of the dead bullock; +but I question much about its keeping as now it is raining steadily, but +we will use as much of it as we can and save the sheep. None of our +journeys appear to give the sheep the slightest inconvenience and they +are as ready to commence their journey in the morning as the man that +attends to them; in fact no party ought ever to go out exploring in the +summer months without them. During the day I rode out to the tops of some +of the stony ranges to get a view of the upward course of the creek; it +seems to go off somewhere on a bearing of 50 degrees but I fancy will +soon turn more to the north. It is quite astonishing to see the patches +of beautiful green grass on the slopes of the stone hills in the small +watercourses that fall down their sides; in fact the only thing like feed +I have seen for some time, and what little there is, is in the bed of the +creeks. The creek here has an anabranch that leaves it about half a mile +above and joins again about half a mile below; width of island half a +mile. + +Thursday, February 27. + +Rained heavily and steadily all night from the east-north-east; the +ground at daylight a perfect bog. From the severity of the night some of +our sheep got adrift but were recovered during the day. The creek, +nine-tenths of which was yesterday dry, is now running a strong stream +and momentarily increasing. Got all the animals across to this side +during the forenoon as the rain appeared likely to continue; and now that +it has set in will most likely inundate all the low flats and completely +put a stop to further progress up the creek until the ground hardens a +little. At such times the only place of safety hereabouts are the +sandhills or stony hills; the latter I prefer, and will shift to one in +the event of the rain continuing another night as steadily as it did last +night as there, and there only, is there any feed to be had for our +animals. They have fallen off considerably of late from the hot weather +and the scantiness of good feed. As soon as they were taken over the +creek they were taken out to one of the stone-ridges and there left in +tolerable feed but not very abundant. The water is lying all over the +flat in sheets and the creek rising rapidly. It must have been a very +long time since this part of the country has been similarly visited with +rain, as the country generally, the flats principally, had not any +vegetation upon them of any useful kind. As I said before the stone +hills, or rather the small creeks on their slopes, are the only places +where there was any feed excepting in the bed of the creek, and now that +last supply was gone, as the creek by this afternoon was swimmable. + +Friday, February 28. + +Raining all night but not quite so heavily; still very considerably. Our +camp is like a stockyard in the southern districts much used in the wet +weather--over our boots in mud and water; although on some of the highest +ground just about here pounds of mud and rubbish adhere to your boots +every time you lift your feet. Creek considerably more swollen; and as +every place is so saturated with water and mud will not move out of this +till tomorrow morning. In the meantime, in hopes that it will clear up a +little and make the ground firm enough to bear the weight of the animals. +It is well we left the cart or we should not have been able to move it +from this, and every probability of its being carried away by the flood +now rapidly approaching. We are now in that position and not far from the +place where Captain Sturt dreaded being overtaken by rain. It is fearful +to travel over but must make the best of it. I am very glad indeed that +we have been favoured with such a copious supply; although for a short +time it may prevent my travelling it will be the means of enabling me to +move about afterwards as I may think fit. I wish I had a couple of +months' more rations of flour, tea, and sugar, as then I could thoroughly +examine the country in this quarter; as it is I will do the best I can. +If this creek carries me much more to the north instead of going to the +east as it now does I think it will take a run through to the Albert +River; and if the steam-sloop Victoria, Captain Norman, has not sailed +from there I think I will be able to get flour or biscuits in sufficient +quantity to carry me back, and enable me to do all, or nearly so, that +was required of me by the South Australian Government; if not at the +Albert I will only be obliged to live the principal part of the return +journey on animal food and what vegetables we may find from time to +time--it won't be a very hard case but much more pleasant and agreeable +if it can be obtained. It is very boisterous. Rain and wind from +east-south-east. The creek rising steadily; by the morning it will be +nearly or quite on a level with the way by which I shall have to travel +in the morning for the high ground. It has a current of about three miles +an hour, or similar to that of the Murray, for which reason I am led to +believe that its chief source is some considerable distance away, +although it receives innumerable tributaries on both sides above and +below where I now am. The rain as it falls upon these stone-clad hills +runs off at once into the small creeks, thence into larger ones on the +flat land, then into the main creek after filling the waterholes in their +respective courses. Towards evening it looks very dark and again +threatens much for a quantity of rain; if so by morning we shall have the +creek high. + +Saturday, March 1. + +At first blush of dawn wind from same quarter (east-south-east). Rained +heavily all night and to my astonishment, instead of the creek rising as +usual (three and a half inches per hour) it was now rising five and a +half inches and hourly increasing. Although the creek has in many places +overflown its banks, and consequently a much broader channel, we are +completely surrounded with at least five feet of water in the shallowest +place that we can escape from this by. After a breakfast by daybreak the +animals are immediately sent for and, as the men start for them, drive +before them our sheep for more than half a mile through a strong current, +and swimming three-fourths of the time; they went over splendidly and +were left on a piece of dry land until our camels and horses came and +removed the stores etc., which fortunately they did with not very many of +the things getting wet. The camels being brought in and loaded and out to +where the sheep were first, I had two of them unloaded and sent back to +carry to the dry ground any of the perishable articles such as +ammunition, flour, tea, and sugar, which they brought in safety; for had +it been put on the horses as usual, and not being able to keep them on +our track, the probability is they would have to swim and completely +destroy the ammunition and injure the other stores; the camels acted +famously and from their great height were as good as if we had been +supplied with boats. After getting all onto dry land they were repacked +and went on to a very good camp, now that there is water, on a sandhill +about two and three-quarters to three miles distant in an east-south-east +direction through a good deal of water and almost impassable flats--the +sheep even sinking up to their bodies in the mud; however we got them all +over safely by early in the afternoon. Still showery and how long we +shall be weather-bound quite uncertain; however there is plenty of feed +for the animals here which is a great comfort, and what is more they are +in perfect safety, as well as we are ourselves, from the boisterous state +of the weather. Whilst on the creek in the morning, had there been much +difficulty in getting the animals, we should have had to hoist the things +up into trees, and constructed a raft of dead timber, and rafted them off +to dry land, which would have been a great deal of trouble. Squally +still; wind continues from same quarter. Towards evening a great portion +of the flat is being covered with water from the creek, beyond the creek +there is nothing visible but lines of trees, marking the course of the +lesser channels, and stone hills, all else is a perfect sea. We were very +fortunate to be caught in it where we were; had we been caught thus in +making this creek, or a day's stage up it, to a certainty we should all +have been washed away, or what would have been just as bad, be perched on +a small island of sand with all the animals round us and nothing but +starvation staring us in the face--as on most of the sand-rises down near +the creek there was no vegetation of any consequence upon them. + +Sunday, March 2. + +In camp; light showers occasionally. The side creeks from the hills +running themselves out and the upper parts drying; the line of creek +visible in the distance through the trees during all its course now in +view, and the flats considerably more covered. Thunder and lightning from +north to north-east. + +Monday, March 3. + +Wind east-south-east; as usual squally. On turning in last night it had +every appearance of rain and did rain steadily for some time but +gradually held up for the night, and appeared as if we were to have a dry +change to have all the things that got wet perfectly dry again. I shall +get all the horses shod here as, from the soft nature of the flats for +some time to come, they will be unfit to travel over the approaching +stony country. Intend searching for the bullock that fell down the other +day and ascertaining whether he is dead or alive; if alive to get him +brought on here; and if much disabled to have him killed and jerked as +soon as the weather clears and the sun shines out sufficiently for that +purpose. Found bullock within a quarter of a mile of where he was left, +able just to stand and no more; I will send out tomorrow afternoon and +have him killed where he is and his flesh brought in here the morning +following for the purpose of jerking it; he appears good beef. The +country boggy; in the afternoon rode down to the creek through a good +deal of water to ascertain the state of the flood, and had to swim some +distance to get to the main creek; when I got there I was glad to find +that not only had it, for the present, arrived at its height, but had +gone down nearly nine inches. The last time this country was flooded it +was about seven feet higher (perpendicularly) than it was this time, and +the sand and stone hills were flooded for several feet up their sides +from their base. Wind still from south-east by east, with an occasional +slight passing shower, but symptoms of clearing up. This country is +perfectly infested with wild dogs; and fortunately for us it is that I +happened to have some strychnine, it plays great havoc amongst them; so +voracious are they that when one of their fellows die the others fall to +and devour him; by this means many are destroyed. Middleton recovering +but very slowly; he continues to have a very troublesome +diarrhoea--aggravated no doubt by being obliged for the last few days to +be nearly always wet; sometimes even to swim clothes and all, and +remaining in that condition till the camp was brought here and fixed; I +should be sorry if anything were to happen to him as he is an invaluable +man in such a party as this. + +Tuesday, March 4. + +Wind a little more east; shod some of the horses yesterday and some this +morning. Four of the party after dinner started to kill the bullock; camp +there and return in the morning with the meat when cold. I with Poole +rode out to some high stone hills eastward to endeavour to get a view of +the creek and ascertain, if possible, from which quarter it principally +flows. After getting to top of the highest, from which one gets very +extensive view to the north-east, there was a slight haze that prevented +me positively ascertaining its actual course; there is very heavy timber +on a bearing of 35 degrees, and appears surrounded by hills. The haze was +so bad that I could not be certain; however I must travel in that +direction first and trust that it suddenly turns round to the north; from +this last point to a point 20 degrees west of north is a perfect sea, +nothing but isolated trees showing above the water; I found the ground +exceedingly soft, almost impassable in many places. On the tableland, at +the foot of the high stone-hills I ascended, are lines of creeks forming +the drainage of the country, thickly timbered with myall, and (for the +place) a considerable quantity of good grass; abundance of water lying on +the top of the tableland, with seagulls, ducks, cranes, etc., about and +on the basins; seven black swans passed over the camp in their flight on +bearing of 335 degrees, no doubt to some lake in that direction. Some few +days ago not a bird was to be seen scarcely, but a few kite, crows, and +galahs; now the whole country seems to be alive with ducks of various +kinds, macaws, corellas, cockatoo parrots, and innumerable small birds. + +Wednesday, March 5. + +Wind light from north-east and every appearance of a beautiful day; the +country beginning to have quite a green appearance, and the valleys being +covered with lilies in full bloom, birds singing and chirping all around +as if in spring. I am quite shut out for the present from Eyre's Creek; +so will not attempt it. At midday the party arrived with the meat of the +bullock and shortly after, when cutting it up for jerking, the head of +the axe accidentally flew off and inflicted a severe wound in the knee of +Maitland our cook; I hope it won't disable him long, although it is deep +and in a nasty place. Got all the meat jerked by evening and trust we may +have dry weather to have it properly preserved; lots of bones and scraps, +of which we shall make soup. + +Thursday, March 6. + +Wind more to the north and every appearance of a dry day; busy shoeing +the horses although they make a slow and sorry work of it. + +Friday, March 7. + +Wind changing all round except from the south and clouds gathering; with +lots of black macaws screeching out in all directions. I hope they are +not again the forerunners of a downpour, as they were of the last. The +meat appears to be drying nicely, and will have it taken up this evening. +It is very sultry. + +Saturday, March 8. + +Wind from west round to north and sultry with a good many fleecy clouds; +shall finish shoeing the horses today with the exception of one which +will require a couple of days' work first, being at present rather fresh +(a good fault) and if all is well will make a start on Monday morning. +The stony hills and slopes (that from every appearance, a few days ago, +from their thorough bronzed and desert appearance, one would suppose +grass never grew) are now being clothed in many places with a nice green +coating of grass, and shortly will give this part quite a lively +appearance, very different indeed from what it was when I first saw it, +then it was as desolate a looking spot as one could picture to himself. +In a couple or three months' time from this date one could with little +difficulty (I am almost certain) start with a herd of any description of +stock from the northern settled parts of South Australia and go right +across the continent to whatever point he might think fit by this route, +but I will know more about it shortly. This bullock gave us of dried meat +about 116 pounds, apparently well dried, besides what meat was used with +the bones to make soup. I hope it may keep well. + +Sunday, March 9. + +At Escape, or Number 7, Camp--will be all ready for a start in the +morning. Wind north-east. + +Monday, March 10. + +Wind north and east, fresh breeze. Bullocks rather refractory at being +packed, consequently late before we started. The journey today was over +stony hills and flats, crossing several small creeks from the more remote +hills, some running tributaries of Burke Creek for twelve and a half +miles, and for three and three-quarter miles further over similar +country, but more flat as we are now approaching the creek, and camped on +the outside of a flat with some water and a fair supply of feed. I was +here before the pack animals arrived but, after waiting for them a short +time, found that in some of the small watercourses the water seemed to be +driving, as I thought with the strength of the wind as is not unusual, +and took for the time no further notice; the horses came up first and +were unpacked, the camels were some time after and did not arrive until +after I had returned from a ride to the top of a hill further up the +creek, and at which place I went down to the water and to my astonishment +found that the whole valley was a perfect sea, rising fast; on my return +to where I had fixed the camp I found that the water had approached +rather too close to be comfortable, and on the arrival of the camels had +them unpacked some distance out on the top of a mound of stones and had +all the horse gear removed there also; the bullocks did not get to camp +till a little after sunset--one of them was so much trouble that I will +do without him rather than be pestered with him, and put his load on one +of the horses. The camels travelled over the stones with their loads +apparently quite unconcerned; they are undoubtedly the best of all +animals for this kind of work, they eat anything nearly, from the gumtree +down to the smallest herb, and then come and lie down beside you, whereas +horses and bullocks, if there be any lack of feed, will ramble all over +the country; with sheep and camels one could travel all over any +practicable part of the continent and keep them in condition. + +Tuesday, March 11. + +Where we had the packs removed from last night and all over the flats is +a perfect sea of water, and even up within less than a foot of where I +slept. From the creek having fallen not far from our last camp some days +since I was under the impression that I would find it considerably down +the further I advanced up its course; but now I find that the cause of +its fall then was purely local from the tributaries immediately about and +above having ceased with the rain to throw in a supply to keep it up. It +now shows me that this creek must come from some very considerable +distance; and I trust it may turn out to come from the north instead of +too much east. It appears from where I was last night to incline towards +the north. Wind from east-south-east. Started for a gap in the range over +top of a stony range to a creek. High table-top ranges in the distance, +north and south of 64 degrees; then to top of red sandhill; then for +three and three-quarter miles to top of sandhill over flat stony plains +with plenty of water and feed. From this point a perfect sea is before +me. Came to camp on Myall Creek after passing two table-topped hills on +left and a peak and table-topped hill on right; beyond the camp plenty of +feed and water. Today passed a native camp, the fire still burning, and +their tracks quite fresh; but did not see them. One of the bullocks did +not arrive in camp; he knocked up and charged the men and they were +consequently obliged to leave him. He was pulled about a good deal the +day before in packing him so would be no use to kill him, besides I could +not carry him at present; he may come up during the night, if so he may +perhaps drive loose and will kill him when wanted. + +Wednesday, March 12. + +The bullock did not come up during the night so will be obliged to leave +him behind. Started on bearing of 55 degrees for two and one-eighth miles +and crossed several myall creeks; over stony ground; the flood close by +obliged to change course to bearing of 97 degrees for three-quarters of a +mile, then bearing of 91 degrees for two and a quarter miles over low +chopping slaty and stony hills and several creeks; then bearing of 84 1/2 +degrees for eight miles over stony ground, very bad travelling; then on +bearing of 77 degrees for half a mile to camp on a frizzly-barked tree +creek. Passed several of the same kind of creeks today with some timber; +it is very hard and some of it (from three to four feet in diameter) +would make splendid furniture. Another of the bullocks dropped down when +within two hundred yards of the camp, apparently affected by the +sun--although it did not seem to me so very hot, although it was sultry. +I hope he will be able to go on in the morning or at this rate we shall +soon lose them all. Wind has chopped round from north-east to south this +afternoon and looks very much like rain. From top of a hill about a mile +from here looking over a sea of water, two openings to be seen in the +sandhills beyond, much as if one or other was the proper course of the +creek; one at 355 1/2 degrees, with heavy timber, and one at 10 degrees, +without so much timber but broader and more like. Natives raising a great +smoke in the distance about five or six miles west of the 355 1/2 degrees +opening. Blew strong in the evening and the rain went off. + +Thursday, March 13. + +Camp 10. Clouds all gone; wind north-east. The bullock unable to get up +so I shall be obliged very reluctantly to leave him behind; but perhaps I +may be driven back this way and he will then be of use. Started for gap +in range bearing 120 degrees for four and a half miles over very stony +country. On table-topped hill on the left, and the mass of ranges on the +left, they look like the Reaphooks (hills) in the north of Adelaide at +Marrana. I have called the main mass of ranges Wills Ranges, after the +unfortunate gentleman who lost his life with poor Burke; then bearing 139 +degrees for one and three-quarter miles; then a bearing of 155 degrees +for six and a half miles, passing along and over sandhills and rich +pasture, with cane swamps full of water, to south-east termination of +sandhills. Thousands of flock pigeons, some teal, and a new duck. They +have here commenced laying; several pigeons' nests were found as we +passed along, and a duck's with eight or ten eggs in it; plenty of quail +and other small birds. Saw a bustard in the midst of the sandhills which +bear 340 degrees. To the north of this camp a short distance is a very +strange round stone hill, capped with larger stone, which I have called +Elliott's Knob. One native was seen today on the top of one of the stony +ridges, but did not get within speaking distance of him; many tracks were +discernible for the last eight miles. From top of one of the stone hills +to right of gap in range a perfect sea was before me from 298 degrees +round north to 95 degrees, with nothing but here and there the tops of +trees that line the creek only discernible, and sand and rock hills +forming islands; and in the distance to north and west the hills that +bound the vast expanse of water appear like islands far off in the ocean. + +Friday, March 14. + +Camp 11. Started on bearing of 90 degrees for five miles to top of long +stony ridges. For the first two miles through swamp and water and +sandhill, leaving on left hand a very nice lake, and on the right some +little distance off a sand-ridge running along swamp; in the distance +south is timber denoting a creek which forms this swamp and lakes--the +remaining three miles of the five very stony and bad travelling. +Immediately beyond me at the end of the five miles stretches a large dry +bed of a lake eastward, with a considerable swamp to south round to 80 +degrees, following the foot of a well-defined range, at the north-east +termination of which range, visible from here, are several smaller and +larger table-topped hills and gaps; then on bearing of 80 degrees, +passing through an arm of dry lake; good travelling for nine and a half +miles and camped on small sandhill at a claypan; the flood from three to +four miles off to west of north; sandhills ahead. + +Saturday, March 15. + +Camp 12, or packsaddle camp, having left one of the bullock's packsaddles +on a tree. Bearing 48 degrees for three and a half miles over very heavy +country with spinifex and abundance of other grasses; one and a half +miles further same course over stony and sandy rises. A splendid tier of +table-topped hills in the distance east and north; bearing of 65 degrees +for two and a half miles, then bearing of 20 degrees over a flooded +splendid swamp, principally, four and a half miles to a box creek where I +will kill Ranger the bullock as he cannot travel. Distance travelled +today twelve miles. + +Sunday, March 16. + +Went to have a view from the principal range eastward, the first and +greater part of the road over magnificent pasture, nearer the hills very +stony; found the hills distant twenty-one miles; from top of a large +table-topped one I had a splendid view; the tier of ranges I am now on +bear to east of north and west of south but are very irregular, many +spurs running off from main range and forming a vast number of +crown-shaped tops and peaked hills, with innumerable creeks draining the +country from east and south to west and north and joining the main creek. +Twenty-one miles travelled today bearing 62 1/2 degrees; from this hill +another tier of similar hills is seen in the distance with a very large +creek draining the country between this and that, flowing northward, and +then west round the north end of the tier I am now upon, the south-west +end of distant range bears 125 degrees, about twenty-five to thirty miles +off, and the north-east end, dimly seen in the distance, bears 65 +degrees, which tier of ranges and creek I have called Browne Creek after +J.H. Browne, Esquire, of Booboorowie, South Australia. The range I am on +and the tier northward to where the creek (Browne's) passes round the end +of them I have called Ellar's tier of table-tops; the tier south of where +I now am I have called Warren's tier of table-tops after my respected +friend George Warren, Esquire, of Gawler for whose kindness I am much +indebted; the plains or downs east and north of those ranges I have +called The Downs of Plenty as here there is everything one could wish in +travelling over a new country. I would have gone over to the distant +ranges but unfortunately my horse threw one of her shoes and I was +obliged to camp at a creek under the hills for the night. The creek I +have now camped on I have named Ranger's Creek after our bullock killed +here. + +Monday, March 17. + +Returned to camp; on my way out to the hills yesterday saw three natives, +but they would not let me approach, they were busy collecting seeds from +the different grasses; the beef seemingly drying well but will have to +give it another day. + +Tuesday, March 18. + +In camp; will pack up the beef tonight and start in the morning. +Afternoon packed the beef, it gave us 162 pounds of well-dried meat and I +hope it may keep good. + +Wednesday, March 19. + +Started about 10.30 and went about fourteen miles; passed through some +magnificent country, one fine plain alone extended for several miles and +well grassed; in the distance could be seen high ranges. The weather +magnificent and quite tropical, the perfume from the flowers is quite +refreshing. Cut a tree with 13 MK (conjoined), 15 to 19-3-62. Distance +travelled today fifteen miles. Camped on a creek, fine water. + +Thursday, March 20. + +Left the camp about 10 a.m. and travelled till we struck a large creek +and went on over fine flats and sandhills covered with most luxuriant +grass and several descriptions of creepers. The blue convolvulus was also +seen today for the first time, also a most beautiful small blue flower +with a dark purple eye. Plenty of pigeons today, some few nests were +found on the march. The mosquitoes very bad at this camp. A native was +brought into camp by Mr. Hodgkinson this evening and we decorated him +with necklaces and gave him a feed. Distance travelled today fifteen +miles. + +Friday, March 21. + +Marked a small bastard sandalwood tree this morning 11 MK (conjoined), +20-3-62. Our journey today was over nothing but red sandhills course +about north-north-east; had to cross a large sheet of water. Eighty duck +eggs were found today by the men. The country round about now is very +fine indeed, grass as high as the horses' knees. We now every day find +fresh shrubs and flowers, everything reminding one of the tropics. +Bullocks and sheep not in tonight, mosquitoes bad here indeed. Last night +was certainly the most infernal night I ever passed, never slept. The +mosquitoes were fearful although fires were lighted all round us, each +man having his private bonfire, yet the mosquitoes were not to be +frightened, they would buzz and bite; rolled our heads up in our blankets +and oilskins but in a second or two the little brutes were under and +buzzing away. The air also seemed impregnated with the little tormentors. +Camped on claypan with little and bad water. Bullocks not up nor sheep. +Distance travelled about sixteen miles. + +Saturday, March 22. + +Bullocks did not come up last night so have had to send back today, +consequently spelled. Thunder and a couple of showers in the afternoon at +which time the bullocks arrived, having strayed far. + +Sunday, March 23. + +Claypan camp. At five and a quarter miles cleared sandhills bearing 17 +degrees, flooded and stony flats with sand. At six and three-quarter +miles crossed a box and myall creek. At seven and three-quarter miles to +top of sandhill passed sandy bed of myall creek from hills. At ten and +three-quarter miles crossed a box and myall creek, running north and +west; plenty of water in creeks, and on both sides of course passing +stony flats and undulations, well grassed. At thirteen and a half miles a +white gum flat with not many stones and trees not large. At fifteen and a +half miles over stony undulations well grassed to top of a myall creek +followed it down west one mile to plenty of water and feed. +Camped--sixteen and a half miles. At three miles and up to four and a +half after starting flood close by on left. + +Monday, March 24. + +Camp 17. Bearing of 355 degrees. At three and three-quarter miles crossed +a myall creek or flat--broad, with several dry channels from +north-north-east, draining a tier of fine ranges on the east--the only +ones now visible to north or east--which I have called Scott's ranges +(the tops of which, especially the northern one, are well wooded) after +John Scott, Esquire, of Adelaide, a gentleman to whom I am much indebted, +in not only giving the use of two of his best horses for my use during +the time the expedition would be absent, but in also kindly requesting me +to call at his station in the North and take from it what I might +consider of service to me. Over gentle slopes, some stony. Saw fifteen +emu on one of the plains so have named the plain and undulations Emu +Downs, to a box creek with abundance of water and feed at seventeen and a +half miles. No timber except on the ranges and creeks. This appears a +small creek to many that are in sight to north and west. A range +continues to north-north-east. The creek from eastward to westward and +southward joining other larger creeks a few miles west of this. The whole +of the country passed over today is excellent pastoral country. From this +camp the north-east termination of Scott's Ranges, ending in two detached +round-looking hills, bears 113 1/2 degrees, about six to ten miles off. + +Tuesday, March 25. + +Started on bearing of 355 degrees. At two and a half miles crossed a box +creek with plenty of water from north-east to west and south, sweeping +considerably towards latter quarter. At fourteen and a half miles to box +creek, dry where I struck it. Went on bearing of 238 degrees for two +miles to a creek with plenty of water and camped. Sixteen and a half +miles over beautifully grassed, very gently sloping and undulating +country; rising ground seen to the west in the distance--flood must be +some distance off. New hawk seen (light-coloured) this afternoon. + +Wednesday, March 26. + +Camp 19. Started on bearing of 315 degrees to get closer to course of +main creek which I have observed nothing of for the last two days. +Beautiful weather; heavy dews at night. At ten miles struck and crossed a +box creek where it empties itself into a flat; passing over splendid +country, the latter part in the small watercourse rather stony and sandy. +A quarter of a mile further on is another box creek, and between it and +the first creek is a perfectly boggy swamp full of water, as well as the +creek, so have to change course to avoid some of it; bearing of 55 1/2 +degrees, over plain for two miles; then bearing 7 1/2 degrees for four +and a half miles, first part of it magnificent feed, the rest a +morass--will have to clear out of this to the east for some distance to +round it. Any traveller caught here in rainy weather such as has been +lately deluging these vast plains would to a certainty be washed +away--there is not a knoll six feet high within the range of the eye. +Journey today about sixteen and a half miles from point to point, but I +made it considerably more in trying to get across the swamp and being +obliged to return. A small hill from top of a tree at camp beyond what +appears the main creek in the distance bears 309 degrees; another small +one is west and south of that--no other rising ground to speak of +visible, except in the direction we came from and a little east of it. + +Thursday, March 27. + +20, or Carbine Creek camp--having left one behind there on a tree, which +has lost the hammer and is unfit for service. Bearing of 29 degrees for +nine miles over swampy country with splendid feed, belts of timber on the +right or east of course, studded in various places, denoting waterholes; +then bearing of 15 degrees for one and a quarter miles where I got bogged +in a creek; got out of it again with a good deal of difficulty and found +that course quite impracticable; after trying the ground for a couple of +miles found it nothing but a bog, so changed course to 54 degrees for +half a mile over sound ground, and encamped on a small creek with a +perfect meadow of grass all around. From the top of a tree hills in the +distance to north and south of east discernible--rising ground near, +which I will make for in the morning. I went out this evening and found +that it is good travelling and will thus allow me to get more in a +northerly direction than of late. Cannot get within miles as yet of the +main creek on account of the boggy nature of the ground--there appear to +be innumerable timbered creeks between this and that, all running into +it--the water here, even on the level plains, is in places running a +stream. One of the camels got bogged on the road today and had to be dug +out with much difficulty. + +Friday, March 28. + +Camp 21. Beautiful morning, wind from east-south-east. Started on bearing +of 68 degrees for one mile to clear some water; then on bearing of 34 +degrees for two and a quarter miles; bearing of 27 degrees for four and a +quarter miles; bearing of 20 degrees for three and a half miles to top of +a small stony rise, immediately beyond which, half a mile distant, is one +mass of creeks occupying a mile in width, coming from south of east from +hills in the distance. These creeks, no doubt, are one both above and +below this, although now split into many branches. I have called it +Davenport Creek after George Davenport, Esquire, of Melbourne, a +gentleman to whom I am much indebted for his kindness. Then bearing of 41 +degrees at half a mile came to first creek and continued on same course, +crossing creeks for one mile; distance about twelve and a half miles. +This creek must drain an immense tract of country eastward. Northward +appears one mass of creeks. It is certainly a magnificent country if +there is permanent water. + +Saturday, March 29. + +Camp 22. Beautiful morning, wind light from south-south-east. On bearing +of 355 degrees for seventeen and a half miles, first part over rather +swampy ground, chiefly over firm ground; good travelling country and a +little stony (sandstone). On it found a new fruit on a shrub about five +feet high, not unlike the bean tree; the fruit tree of Cooper's Creek +also is here and it is a more handsome tree than between this and +Cooper's Creek; the bean tree is also here. Within the last two miles the +ground has been swampy and full of watercourses, with plenty of water +caused by the emptying of a large creek from the east, coming past +south-west end of a large range east and running north of this position; +which creek I have named Brown's Creek after Charles Brown, Esquire, of +Great Bourke Street West, Melbourne, whose upright way of conducting +business I very much admire and who, from his straightforward manner, +gains the esteem of everyone that has anything to do with him. + +Sunday, March 30. + +Camp Number 23. Bearing of 7 degrees one mile, bearing of 355 degrees +eight and a half miles to top of a sandhill, well-grassed; passing on the +left, half a mile back, a couple of same kind and a little higher. From +the one I am on an extensive view of the surrounding country is had. On +the west side of the creek close is a tier of ranges running parallel +with it; nearest part not above four miles from this; hills on the right +at various distances discernible all along the course today; the most +prominent one seemingly well-wooded and terminating northward in a bluff +and small table-top. Bluff bearing 117 1/2 degrees, I have called the +Hamilton Range after George Hamilton, Esquire, Inspector of Police, +Adelaide. Two table-topped hills are to the east and north of the bluff; +southern one bears south end 114 degrees, north end 113 1/2 degrees; +south end of north table-top 113 1/4 degrees; north-east end 112 degrees. +On a bearing of 60 degrees distant is a mass of apparently heavy ranges +running west of north--as do most of the ranges that at all approach the +creek. The country here has been terribly torn by the flood and torrents +of rain that must have fallen some short time back; in some places it has +the appearance of being literally ploughed in stripes, but generally +firm; any quantity of water on right of course. To the east, between the +hills, heavy creeks come out west and north in all directions, +overflowing the whole country; anyone caught in the locality on such +occasions as the late visit of the flood here would never more be heard +of. On bearing of 331 degrees for two and a half miles; bearing of 340 +degrees for four and three-quarter miles--in all about sixteen and +three-quarter miles; latter part much torn by water and in consequence +less feed than usual. Camped on one of the main channels of the main +creek about eighty to one hundred yards wide, cut into a number of +channels; abundance of water and feed. From this camp peculiar cliffy red +table-topped hill bears 77 degrees; highest point of range 33 1/2 +degrees; farthest part visible 7 degrees; is timbered on top; running +north-west; south end distant about five to seven miles. + +Monday, March 31. + +Bearing 15 degrees one and one-eighth miles; bearing of 36 1/2 degrees +four miles to ranges, part of table-top hill about three and a half miles +off where the creek goes through the gorge between the table-tops, when +it is fully half and nearly three-quarters of a mile wide, and nearly one +sheet of water and bogs; it divides towards the other side through larger +passage on the east and two rocky hills in the angle, nearly north and +south of each other and about 100 yards apart; another rocky cone hill is +south again of them. Round rocky summit and bears 240 degrees; crossed on +bearing of 10 degrees over table-top limestone and sandstone hill to flat +on the other side at four miles; at two miles further on same course +camped at first good water we met. This range that I have passed over I +have called Hamilton's Table-tops after G. Hamilton, Esquire, Inspector +of Police; the gorge and island I have called Hunter; the table-tops on +opposite side I have called Goyder's after the Surveyor-General of South +Australia; the islands immediately south of Hunter's Island and close +alongside I have called Mary's Island: and the cone southward of that I +have called Moses Island Cone after a young relative of mine in Scotland. + +Tuesday, April 1. + +Beautiful morning; wind east and fresh. Travelled zigzag through creeks +from the eastward for about twenty miles and camped on large one from +south of east that we could not find a crossing at; our distance in a +direct line would not be much more than half that, and the exact course +not known till I get on one of the hills; to east and north no view, +being perfectly shut out with timber. The country near the creek is a +perfect bog, and even a man has great difficulty in getting out of some +places that he is induced to try, thinking it crossable. After getting to +camp went about examining the creek for a crossing, and think I have +found one that perhaps may do, but even after crossing this one the +country is like a net, intersected as it is with creeks, magnificent +pasture on the flats; a native fishing weir is a little above this. +Across the creek and you can see the fish snapping at the flies in the +holes--all the creeks indeed that I have crossed from the east have both +fish and mussels in them, but here the creeks are very formidable. Small +crown top of the hill, another very fine one some little distance south +of that; all those are on the western side of a large range, close by, +running apparently north-east and south-west. I sincerely wish I was safe +on the western side of these main creeks as I am thus driven contrary to +my wish much east. + +Wednesday, April 2. + +Started to cross the creek about three-quarters of a mile to the +eastward; but just before starting, whilst the horses were coming, two of +them got bogged and we had some difficulty in extricating them, however +we made a start; got to the crossing place--got two of the camels and two +of the horses bogged and had considerable difficulty in getting all over +safe, however did so with the exception of getting some of the things +wet, so it was late when we crossed. I at once camped to dry them and got +things put to rights for a start in the morning. Started off to get a +view of the country from a remarkable crown-topped conical hill about six +miles off, and had a most extensive view. I find that we have for the +present passed the worst of the creeks, and that now there is in view +only one of much magnitude and it bears off eastward, passing on the +south-east side of an isolated hill or double hill; they are the only +hills seen from this elevated spot from a bearing of 358 degrees round to +44 degrees southward and westward; from the forementioned of these +bearings and masses of hills jumbled together, and to south and east of +the latter bearing is another mass of hills; at the bearing itself the +hill terminates in small cones immediately east of my position; a little +to the north and a little to the south is one mass of table-topped hills, +some apparently strongly timbered on top, with a perfect wall from ten to +thirty feet perpendicular round summit of all, and some are detached. +Hunter's Island Gap, or rather the bluff on its northern side, bearing 26 +degrees from Hunter's Gorge to north and west, is round to 358 degrees in +the far distance, is a mass of table-topped ranges with, apparently, +three gaps in them. + +Thursday, April 3. + +On bearing of 110 degrees along the creek for one and a quarter miles, on +bearing of 65 1/2 degrees for three and a half miles, on bearing of 1 +degree for three and a half miles over several boggy creeks; then after +several fruitless exertions through bogs and creeks, with a large deep +strong running stream and through quagmire, was obliged to retrace my +steps and get outside of the creeks, having failed completely in getting +over them; they would swallow horses and everything we had got. Went on +bearing of 99 degrees for three and a half miles and camped on a +magnificent lagoon about one mile long and about 200 yards wide, a +perfect flower garden. + +Friday, April 4. + +Camp, Jeannie Lagoon; went and had a view from hills east; saw there +Kangaroo ranges far to the east, tier after tier, country timbered, etc. + +Saturday, April 5. + +Camp 28. At daybreak sky wild-looking to eastward; wind from south; +strong. Never in all my experience found the flies so thorough a pest as +they have been for the last week or ten days. We get on without our bread +quite as well as I expected; the vegetables we use by boiling are famous +things, both as a substitute for bread and keep the party in good health. +The natives on the main creek lower down south call it cullie; it is a +sort of spinach and does not grow more than a foot high but spreads +perhaps twice that much. Started over on bearing of 45 degrees; at three +three-eighth miles came to and crossed a broad swamp from the eastern +hills; a little further back on the right of my course appeared to be +another lagoon; at five-eighths of a mile commenced crossing low +sandhills; splendid feed all the way. Changed the course, the ground +ahead having too many high-looking sandhills. Saw a couple of natives in +the distance crossing the swamp; I crossed some considerable distance +west of them; they evidently did not see us. Cannot keep straight; there +is a large deep creek here immediately on my left, about fifty yards +wide; bearing of 60 degrees for one and a quarter miles; then bearing of +24 degrees, crossing the creek (small one); making for north-west end of +another sandhill two and a quarter miles further; then bearing of 15 +degrees, passing on the left some fine myall and sandhill country, +splendidly grassed and strongly wooded with myall and other trees of +various kinds in splendid foliage; two and a quarter miles bearing of 33 +degrees over sandy undulation on the right and innumerable creeks on the +left for one and one-eighth miles; in all sixteen and a quarter miles and +camped on some mulga near some of the branches of the creek. + +Sunday, April 6. + +Camp 29. Beautiful cold morning; what little wind there is is from the +south-west. Started away on bearing of 40 degrees for thirteen and a half +miles; first part over stony myall undulations (open) the latter part +free from stones and much less wooded except in the creeks that +constantly come in from the ranges from the eastward. As I am now passing +a couple of circular table-topped hills pretty close on the right I will +change my course for a thicket of myall and camp that I may be enabled to +ride to the height and have a view of the general course of the creek, as +what I am on is too flat to get a view at all. Changed course and camped; +distance travelled fourteen and five-eighth miles; day beautifully cool. +A tier of ranges continues on my right all along, varying from five to +eight miles distant, timbered with mulga, same as one I went on the day I +camped at Jeannie Lagoon; a mass of detached pyramids, cut and conical +coronet-topped hills are between my course and the main range and I have +the creek to the right. Not far off passed abundance of water on course +over top of Euro Hill; creek bears suddenly off westward--a likely way to +get over the range and meet it again by a gap in range bearing 349 +degrees. It appears to pass through and receive large tributaries from +the west and northward, between large leading ranges on the west and +through range with gap on the east side, that I talk of passing through +to meet it again on bearing 318 degrees, or of bearing 340 +degrees--nearer considerably than the former. This hill is a conical +coronet-topped hill of burned sandstone mixed with some quartz and is +four miles from camp, on a bearing of 157 1/2 degrees. Belts of mulga +between camp and this; the country to north-east and round by east to +south for some miles is not all good; a little spinifex and the ground +perfectly strewed with bronzed stones of various sizes; no ranges visible +from north round to north-east, but plains and mulga scrub; one larger +hill similar, but coated with spinifex and bush of various sizes, is +close by bearing 300 degrees; another about the same size as this, +thickly coated with spinifex, and a couple of bushes about 300 yards off +bears 225 degrees. Between me and main range to the east are numerous red +pyramid hills of various sizes, and southward a number of detached +table-topped hills, peaks, and mounds, all more or less timbered. Just as +I was getting up this hill a fine euro hopped off down the side some +distance off, and when I got on the top another sprang up and as I had my +pistol with me I fired and luckily killed him, so I call the hill Euro +Hill. After I had finished on the hill I disembowelled the euro and +carried it to the camp to have it used and help the meat to last; I hope +we may get plenty more. + +Monday, April 7. + +Camp 30. Exceedingly cold during the night but a beautiful morning. +Started on bearing 5 1/2 degrees for six and three-quarter miles; first +part of it over open flats with mulga creeks and watercourses, many with +water; next over burnt stony undulation with mulga watercourses; at five +miles came in amongst a quantity of detached hills of lime and sandstone; +the ground strewed with bronzed burnt small stones and takes the print of +an animal's foot readily, having a light soil under. At the end of this +distance, six and three-quarter miles, two creeks again full in view, one +apparently on bearing 9 degrees, passing above and below a small +table-topped hill, the other on bearing of 40 degrees, which I suppose I +must follow till I can cross. For five miles passing stony slopes towards +the creek and a vast abundance of vine with large yellow blossoms, the +fruit being contained in a leafy pod; that fruit when ripe contains three +or four black seeds as large as a good-sized pea. I must try them cooked +as I find the emu tracks very abundant where the vine is most plentiful. +I can from this point see the creek distinctly break off from the branch +on bearing of 354 degrees, but I must keep on the branch still; bearing +now 35 1/2 degrees. The tops of the low hills are of a whitish colour, +and an immense quantity of gypsum is scattered over them as well as over +the slopes as I came along, and the tops and slopes of the hill have +mallee with other trees and shrubs; course 35 1/2 degrees for three +three-eighth miles, first part burnt undulation of thin brown slate +gypsum cliffs for a short distance, without a shrub or bush on them; +precipitous slopes, tops alone having bushes or trees; latter part over +undulation more or less stony to creek where it turns suddenly to +northward again; bearing of 338 degrees over flooded well-grassed country +for two miles on to the main creek; a hill on opposite side within +twenty-three yards of creek bank. This is a magnificent stream here. It +is at least 250 yards wide and from forty to fifty feet down the banks to +the water, lined with noble gums, box, bean, and other trees; how deep it +is difficult to say. Lots of ducks of various kinds, cormorants, magpies, +corellas, pigeons of various kinds, with the usual accompaniment of crows +and hawks. Small hill visible in the distance to south of east; very +extensive plain in that direction also, as well as east and north of +east, with abundance of excellent pasture and timbered low ridges, stony, +but well grassed with limestone and the everlasting plum-pudding stone +with sandstone. Current in creek I should say not more than half a mile +per hour. + +Tuesday, April 8. + +Camp 31. Cool during the night with a heavy dew, beautiful morning, not a +breath of wind: keeping a short distance from the creek to cross a boggy +tributary from the east, for two and three-quarter miles, then through +timbered stony rising ground, plenty of feed; the bronzed middle-sized +pigeon of Cooper's Creek seen here; bearing of 40 degrees for two and a +quarter miles along limestone and plum-pudding slopes; part of creek on +left on bearing of 30 degrees for three and a quarter miles, timber for +building purposes to be had here in sufficient quantities; bearing of 45 +degrees for three-quarters of a mile; bearing 50 degrees for one mile; +bearing of 40 degrees three-quarters of a mile over myall open country, +some of it very stony where the flood has swept over it; now on the right +are some fine plains backed in by low myall ridges; bearing of 42 degrees +for four and three-quarter miles, the creek on the left, tributaries seem +to come in and join on opposite side, cross a creek from east in its +swamp, plenty of water (Kell's Creek); I have come to a stony +crossing-place and recross over to north-west side; the female camel +bogged but we soon got her put to rights; for the last three miles the +ground we travelled over is nearly one mass of stones, limestone and +agate or flint, and very bad travelling; the creek runs strong--I have +called it Mueller's Creek after F. Mueller of Melbourne--fifteen and a +half miles. After getting to camp got a horse and went out north of west +to a ridge some short distance off and saw to the westward a large +tributary that I think will suit my course; at little over quarter of a +mile a very large creek comes in from north of north-east and flows +southward, it has ceased running and has a broad stony bottom but has +splendid reaches of water; this I have called the Robinson after J. +Robinson, Esquire, of Hume River. Considerably to east is a well-defined +range in the distance, running north and south with three detached mounds +of hills and I have called it Mount Mueller after F. Mueller, Esquire. + +Wednesday, April 9. + +Camp 32. Heavy dew, beautiful still morning, a few fleecy clouds. +Started, bearing of 285 degrees for one and a quarter miles, at +three-eighths of a mile crossed the Robinson, at three-eighths of a mile +further crossed a nice creek with large reaches, the Mansergh; at +three-eighths of a mile further changed our mode of travel to the bearing +of 330 degrees for two and a quarter miles; then bearing 354 1/2 degrees, +spinifex hill or range close on the right, good open country travelled +over; creek on the left about two miles off, alluvial deposit on plain, +over which we travelled for six and three-quarter miles then entered a +mulga range (low) bronzed stone on the ascent but plenty of feed and +numerous traces of kangaroo. Saw lots of emu on the plains; still on +bearing of 354 1/2 degrees to creek, passing on the right a vast quantity +of spinifex and ranges of sandstone right on the banks of creek for three +and a quarter miles, crossed it on a bearing of 284 degrees +three-quarters of a mile, plenty of water, the creek I have called the +Fletcher after G.B. Fletcher, Esquire, Tapio, Darling River, New South +Wales; then bearing 295 degrees for Coronet-Topped Hill, centre of next +creek, at three miles made the creek, went one quarter of a mile into it +and camped; the last three miles has been a pipeclay, slaty, spinifex, +miserable country with detached conical, white, clay-slaty hills, top of +the range all spinifex, although timbered with a white-barrelled gum of +no great dimensions; distance travelled today seventeen and a half miles. + +Thursday, April 10. + +Camp 33. Fine morning, wind moderate, south, on bearing of 300 degrees up +the clear ground in the apparent centre of this immense creek; passed +north end of stony (sand) spinifex-topped and pipeclay, north end at one +and one-eighth of a mile; bearing of 315 degrees high bluff, +spinifex-topped, hills all along at the right of creek, except the valley +of the creek, this is the most miserable country we have been in for some +time, if you offer to ascend the ridges they are nothing but a mass of +very rough stones, spinifex, and mulga, myall, and white-stemmed +gumtrees, very difficult to travel over, three miles on 315 degrees; +obliged to change course, great part of the heavy creek, on my left, +crossing my course, and bearing up more to eastward another creek bears +off to considerably west of north, now on bearing of 285 degrees crossing +the different branches of this immense creek which I have called the +Cadell, after F. Cadell, Esquire, the enterprising and indefatigable +navigator of the Murray and Darling, etc. etc., not that he will ever be +able to steam up this length; 285 degrees for one and a quarter miles of +other creeks that appear to go off on a bearing, at present, of 200 +degrees, which I follow on its north-east side, or rather up through it, +as it is divided into innumerable branches with abundance of water; +camped at six and three-quarter miles on this course in the centre of the +creek; the hills recede a good deal from the creek and are not so +rough-looking or abrupt as they were in the morning and yesterday; the +creek I have called Middleton, after Mr. Middleton, one of our party, who +at all times has rendered me most material services and who, had I lost +him during his late severe illness I should scarcely be able to get along +without, he is always ready at the post when there is anything particular +to do. + +Friday, April 11. + +Camp 34. Fine morning; wind moderate south. This creek receives a +tributary from the southward of west about a quarter mile lower down than +this. I shall pass through this creek to north-east side, that being the +best and most open travelling, the south-west side having myall timber +from the creek to the ranges as far as visible. If the country at all +suits and, as my food cannot possibly carry me back to Adelaide, I shall +shape my course for the southern part of the Gulf of Carpentaria about +the Albert River, thence to Port Denison, then to wait instructions from +South Australia. On bearing of 45 degrees; half a mile across the +different branches of the immense creek, then on bearing of 314 degrees +along splendid plains, passing at nine and a half miles a detached small +tier of ranges running on to and ending at the creek; from the top of the +nearest one the creek appears to bear through ranges 294 1/2 degrees; +ranges on this side appear only detached and far distant from the creek, +leaving magnificent plains intervening. A small red conical hill is close +to the creek about a mile from this bearing 306 1/2 degrees. I now +recross the creek on bearing of 294 1/2 degrees as it is more suitable +for my purpose, the creek in the distance at its western bend bearing 305 +degrees about nine miles distant, at which place it receives a tributary +from the ranges to the eastward on the course of 294 1/2 degrees for +eight and a half miles. Camping on south-western side of creek, passing +over excellent country. Travelled today eighteen and a half miles. The +creek that comes in on the opposite side I have called Saville's Creek. +From this camp a coronet-shaped hill, at or near the termination of a +tier of ranges approaching the creek within five miles, bears 30 degrees, +a bluff termination of ranges from the creek on south-west side and on +south-west of our tomorrow course bears 279 1/2 degrees, about eight to +ten miles. + +Saturday, April 12. + +Camp 35. Fine morning. I have had to send back to last camp for a small +saw, carelessly left behind by the cook. On bearing of 294 1/2 degrees on +south-west side of creek direct, seven and a half miles through, the +creek came direct in my course and sheered round again north before that +distance; then bearing of 313 degrees for five and three-quarter miles, +and camped, making the stage short to await the messenger for the saw. +Wind south. Immense open downs or plains, well grassed with similar hills +to what we have passed, wanting the spinifex. Messenger arrived with saw. + +Sunday, April 13. + +Camp 36. Evenings, nights, and mornings are beautifully cool; the days +are quite hot enough. It is astonishing to see how fast the waters have +dried up. I hope that near the tops of the creeks the water will not fail +us, for up to this we have had lately much more than we want. Bearing of +336 degrees, on south-west side of creek still. Ranges now on the left +and at the distance of from thirteen to fourteen miles, appear to come +right on to the creek on both sides at two and a half miles; on bearing +of 336 degrees. Tributary from south-west side; at five miles another +tributary on same side; at six and three-quarter miles another. At +fourteen miles the hills close, those on the north-east side nearer than +the south-west side ones. At fourteen and a half miles tributary joins on +opposite side from the hill close by. At fifteen and three-quarter miles +hill (burned sandstone) comes on to the creek; the timber in the creek +nearly all white gum, the North of Adelaide native orange, and a new +fruit, something similar, that when ripe splits open down the sides +whilst still green, and grows on a low prickly shrub, leaf not unlike the +orange but longer and when near other trees or shrubs entwines itself +round them and grows to a good height. The actual distance today direct +is about fifteen miles, as the creek came in my course and receded again +before we came to camp--camped across the creek. Kirby by some +unfortunate mistake on his part did not arrive here tonight. Will send +after him first thing in the morning; burnt a blue light and made a low +fire on the top of the hill for him but without effect. + +Monday, April 14. + +No word of Kirby; sent after him, found him on the tracks some miles +away, and did not get to camp till near noon. He says he got entangled in +the creeks and could not make the tracks out. Lots of kangaroo and emu +here but shy; cloudy and hot. Looks as if we were to have a shower; I +wish we may. Camp here today. + +Tuesday, April 15. + +Camp 37. Late in starting, some horses being absent; nice cool breeze +from north-north-east--bearing of 2 1/2 degrees; creek on the left at +three-quarters of a mile, tributaries join on each side; at two and a +half miles remarkable peaky and table-topped hills on right; hills close +on both sides. At four and a half miles changed course to 8 degrees; at +one and a half miles heavy tributary came in from east-south-east, and is +I think the principal channel; completely ran the creek out north and +then followed and ran out the principal one. Retreated twice and +compelled to camp at a water in the flat a quarter of a mile north of +where I struck the creek. Distance today six and a half miles; although I +suppose I travelled treble that distance. After camping got a horse and +went out over the ranges in a west and north direction and saw what I +suppose will be a course to suit me tomorrow; otherwise it was my +intention to have taken one man and a packhorse, and pushing over the +range northward to see if we are near the north watershed, or to have +found a practicable route. Ranges are covered with spinifex and rough +stones. Hodgkinson shot a euro which will help us on and save a sheep. + +Wednesday, April 16. + +Camp 38. Started on a general bearing of 292 degrees over the ranges and +at seven miles direct got onto a large myall flat; at nine miles passing +over myall flat. Red table-topped range close on right; passed through +the mass of them and the last of the range; and changed bearing to 325 +degrees for three and a half miles, making for a gum creek that appeared +to come from the ranges from north and east. Found no water on the road +nor in the creek but fortunately some in a side creek at which place I +camped. Saw a native signalising to westward, a considerable distance. + +Thursday, April 17. + +Camp 39. Beautiful morning. Started on bearing of 305 degrees across an +extensive myall, gum, and box flat, with innumerable tributaries into it +in all directions. General drain up to the south; water in many +watercourses as we cross the flat, and must be an immense creek a little +lower down, where they all unite. Keep the course for eleven miles, +crossing a fine open creek running northward, which I think is the same +that we crossed this morning flowing south; then over spinifex ridges on +bearing of 300 degrees onto a fine open flat. Heavy ranges west. Apparent +fall of water northward; about four miles south of this and immediately +over the open undulation at the distance the flow takes place south; on +this last course two and a quarter miles; on bearing of 295 degrees for +two miles, 293 degrees for two and a quarter miles over splendid country +and camped at first creek we met with plenty of water. Unfortunately +Kirby with the sheep has got astray; and Hodgkinson, who was sent after +him in the morning to swerve him from the course he was then on and bear +up north for ours, came up to me in the midst of a spinifex range, whilst +leading on the party, with the stupid information that he could not +follow his tracks; and on being rated for so doing and sent back arrived +at 10 p.m., and never got on his tracks again but says he went back to +the camp we left in the morning--for what purpose he only knows; in +consequence the unfortunate man did not arrive at camp. I will send after +him first thing in the morning. After getting into camp I rode out south +towards the watershed but found it further off than I anticipated from +this camp. It must be from ten to fifteen miles and most excellent +country. The main range west from what I could see of it is very stony; +few trees and a great abundance of kangaroo and other grasses. Emu and +kangaroo in abundance. Range runs to east of north a little and to south +of west a little and is formidable. Distance travelled seventeen and a +half miles. + +Friday, April 18. + +Camp 40. First thing in the morning got the horses and started Middleton +and Palmer to endeavour to trace the unfortunate man Kirby who has not +made his appearance. He must have had a bitter cold night of it; this +morning south wind was as cold or colder than I have felt it for twelve +months--we were glad to get to the fire besides fortifying ourselves with +warmer clothing than usual. I with Poole started to cut his tracks if he +came out through the range on his course through open country south of +this, but were unsuccessful in finding any trace of him. Middleton and +Palmer got on his tracks and followed them to about dark when within a +very short distance of our tracks here, and more than half the distance +to this camp, and thought it not improbable, from the course he was then +pursuing, that he had got to our camp and came home but the unfortunate +had not; had he been followed the day before by Hodgkinson with the same +perseverance all would have been well and much anxiety spared to all. If +the poor man has kept to the ranges I'm afraid there is little hopes of +him--it will be a sad end for the poor fellow--a better man for his +occupation could not be found. Just fancy an unfortunate man lost between +two and three hundred miles from the coast in a perfect wild with +twenty-three sheep (and I question if he has any matches) left to sink or +swim beyond reach of any Christian soul. If he is recovered he may thank +God. Will still keep up the search for some days to come in hopes of +recovering him. Camp bearing 208 1/2 degrees about four and a half miles; +furthest north point visible of McKinlay's Range 304 degrees, from thirty +to forty miles. No range visible between that and 18 1/2 degrees. Nothing +but heavily timbered creeks, innumerable tributaries from both sides and +south end. Exact course of main creek not positively discernible, but for +the first twenty miles from camp it bears much east, from Observation +Hill it appears as far east as 3 degrees--termination of McKinlay's Range +as visible from camp on bearing 341 degrees. Furthest southern point of +McKinlay's Range as visible from Observation Hill 214 degrees. Some miles +beyond the watershed south, hill where watershed takes place about six +miles from camp bears from the Hill Observation 216 degrees from camp. + +Saturday, April 19. + +Horses sent for per first light; night very cold again. Not having had +anything in the shape of food since the morning Kirby was lost, except a +couple or three spoonfuls of flour each in water, I determined, Kirby not +yet arriving, to kill one of our bullocks; had them up to camp and shot +one in the grey of the morning; three now remaining; in the event of +Kirby not being found with the sheep all correct, not very bright +prospect for the party to travel to the Gulf and round to Port Denison +upon; certainly we have the horses but I would be loath to kill them +except in extreme need, but I will still hope for the best, but cannot +stay beyond a week whether found or not, as our provisions, beef, will be +lessening daily; the flour we still have is a small quantity reserved in +case of sickness and for the purpose of putting a small quantity daily in +our soup to make it appear more substantial; at present the vegetable the +party were all so fond of has disappeared except some old dry remnants +which all feel the want of much. I hope it may reappear. After cooking +some of the liver etc. for breakfast and some to take with them, started +Middleton and Palmer again to follow up Kirby's tracks from where they +left them, and started Bell back to the last camp to examine minutely the +track as he went along, and all about the camp in case he may have +retraced his steps, which is what he ought to have done. By noon of same +day, on our not making our appearance on his course, I started out and +skirted the foot of the range where he ought to come out on his course, +but was unsuccessful in finding the slightest trace of the unfortunate +man. What thoughts must pass in his mind. Not a probability of ever again +seeing anyone of his own colour. Possibly destroyed by the natives whose +fires are to be seen daily, although they don't make their +appearance--never again to see his home nor his friends; it must be awful +for the poor man. Dusk now setting in I have better hopes of his recovery +as neither of the three horsemen have made their appearance. Just at dark +up rides Middleton with the joyous intelligence that man and sheep are +found, Palmer staying behind to push on and overtake Bell and Kirby with +the sheep on our track here, and Middleton took a more direct route here +to give information of the good news, at which all of us were glad and +thankful. About 11 p.m. horsemen, Kirby, and sheep arrived safe, and I +was truly grateful for the deliverance. The poor man says he never +expected to see us again. Bell fortunately picked him up within three +miles of our last camp; he was then, after having been considerably +south, and now completely bewildered and thinking he had missed the camp +while travelling in the dark, steering a north-west course, and in ten +minutes longer would have been on our track for this place. Middleton and +Palmer had traced him throughout; and as they found they were drawing +near our track Palmer went to the track to see if anything was to be seen +of him there, and called out to Middleton that they were found, and gone +towards home on the tracks, when Middleton immediately started with the +information, leaving Palmer to follow and overtake and assist them to +camp with the sheep. The man Kirby on arrival was completely worn out, +not for want of food but with a troubled mind and want of sleep. He had +killed a sheep the second night after leaving last camp and had with him +a small portion for his use. How thankful he must have been to see Bell! + +Sunday, April 20. + +Very cold morning. Kirby sleeping and recruiting himself. The meat +drying; in consequence of the last detention it has put us far back from +where we otherwise would have been, and the course appears pretty open to +us now. + +Monday, April 21. + +No dew last night, still the meat is unfit to pack, will have to give it +today still, and then will make a start in the morning. A splendid large +creek flows west of south over the fall of water, and at fifteen to +sixteen miles from this there is abundance of water in it, and must +increase wonderfully as it goes southward and receives its various +tributaries. I have called it the Hamilton after G. Hamilton, Esquire, +Inspector of Police, Adelaide. The one flowing south from our last camp +(39) I have called the Warburton, after the Commissioner of Police, P.E. +Warburton, Esquire, of Adelaide. The range between the two going south I +have called Crozier's Range after John Crozier, Esquire, Murray River. +The ranges west side of the Hamilton going southward I have called +William's Ranges. From the division of waters the ranges west of this and +the creek flowing northwards, a branch of which we are now on, I have +called McKinlay Creek and Ranges; I only hope the creek may hold a course +west of north. The ranges on the east side of this creek going northward +I have called Kirby's Ranges to remind him of his narrow escape. +Tributaries come into this creek south of this position, and west and +east as far as I can discern from top of range, about five miles +north-north-east of this; there is abundance of water in many of the +minor as well as the main creeks; mussels in all. Magnificent pasture all +around and lots of game but wild. + +Tuesday, April 22. + +Camp 40. We have been here now since the afternoon of Thursday last the +17th, and high time it is that we make some progress. Wind south-east; +cold dewless nights; the meat has dried after a fashion but not +sufficient for keeping any length of time without further exposure to sun +and air--which we must do as soon as we get to camp for several days. +Kirby has now quite recovered and we start on a bearing of 345 degrees. I +call this small creek Black-eyes Creek--after the bullock we slaughtered +here; at three and three-quarter miles crossed the what appears main +channel of the creek coming from west-south-west, and various others +coming in all directions; this is an immense creek, sandy and gravelly +bed, with large and to me perfectly new trees, with short and broad dark +green leaf and often clustering in fine saplings from the bottom and +growing to a good height; also some fine gums. Creek now on the right; +country after crossing the creek is splendidly grassed and firm sound +ground between creek and range which is some distance off; but we will be +gradually approaching it on our present course. At seven and a half miles +crossed sandy creek from west; at ten one-eighth miles crossed large deep +creek from west, at twelve miles sandy creek from west; and at fourteen +miles sandy creek from west; at fourteen and a quarter miles large sandy +creek, west, with water in sand; went down the creek east for a quarter +of a mile to water and camped at the junction of the other creek we +crossed a short distance back with this; the creek immediately below this +is about 300 yards wide with excellent timber; there has been a little +spinifex during today's travel but the bulk of it has been well-grassed +and fresh varieties of good sound country; a specimen of copper picked up +in one of the creeks; a great abundance of quartz and mica strewed +everywhere. I think I forgot to mention that at the division of waters on +the low bald undulations limestone is strewed about in large and small +circular pieces from the size of a saucer to three and four feet in +diameter, besides large blocks of it; the hills on the west are of a hard +stone between flint and sandstone, strewed about with quartz; the eastern +one is of burned slate or clay, pretty much resembling many that we have +already passed and what I was on, topped with spinifex, and the side with +good grasses. + +Wednesday, April 23. + +Camp 41. Mild night, wind light from west; started on a bearing of 345 +degrees. A fresh broad-bean from a fine runner found here but rather +green to obtain seed from; may get some ripe further north. A couple of +small fish about two and a half to three inches long are in this +waterhole, came up at the flood no doubt and left here. The horses are +gone back on their old tracks and the two men who went after them, like +idiots, got about half of them and retraced their steps to camp, afraid +no doubt to go off the tracks to look after them in case they should get +lost--this I am sorry to say is not an uncommon occurrence and has all +along pestered me very much, and has in many instances caused vast +detention; the worst of it is that some of them instead of improving in +following tracks appear to me to be getting daily more stupid. The sheep +and bullocks I have sent on on the proper bearing, so that if it is even +late when the horses are found they can be overtaken and a journey made; +but it does not give me an opportunity of finding water and good camp as +I otherwise would be able to do getting them in a proper time. Wind at 10 +a.m. changed to east-north-east, beautiful morning. At middle of the day, +the horses not making their appearance, I sent after the sheep and +bullocks and had them turned back to camp; they arrived at sunset and the +horses just arrived at the same time, having strayed amongst the spinifex +a considerable distance. I took a horse and went to the nearest hill +about seven miles distant to observe the course of the main creek, but +the day proving warm and misty I did not get so distinct a view as I +anticipated, it was extensive enough but indistinct although the +elevation I was on must have been more than 3000 feet from level of the +creek, and much higher ranges on to west of it; from top of it portions +of the main range appear in the far distance at 347 1/2 degrees; no other +eminence round the horizon to 95 degrees; the whole intervening space +filled with creeks running in all directions towards the main creek, that +must be distant from the hill I was on easterly nearly twenty miles with +an apparent northerly course; this hill is detached from the main mass of +range and distant from four to five miles. It and the most of the +intervening space between the camp and it is literally one mass of quartz +and quartz-reefs, mica, etc., and on top of range is a sort of flaggy +slate, all apparently having undergone the action of fire--this range I +have called Sarah's Range; it bears from camp 323 degrees seven miles; a +great deal of spinifex and abrupt creeks between camp and it, not a speck +of gold visible but it appears to have undergone the action of fire; this +is another day lost. Such detention makes me quite irritable and fidgety. + +Thursday, April 24. + +Camp 41. Night mild, warm morning. Bearing of 345 degrees for three +miles, within which distance three tributaries from the range from the +west cross us, not of any great size. Change course to 352 degrees, the +ground being rather stony and full of spinifex, and the side creeks very +sandy, and little hopes of water for the animals although plenty could be +had for our own use. At one mile, tributary; at two miles another; four +and a quarter miles another; at seven miles junction of two, where we +camp; although the distance is short, the bullocks being absent this +morning when I left camp, and it appears had gone towards our old camp +about eight miles before they were overtaken. I hope all the animals will +be at hand in the morning to enable us to make a good day of it tomorrow. +Just below the junction of these two creeks (although the southern one is +only a small one and in it we got the water) the creek is from 250 to 300 +yards broad with splendid gums in it on its banks. Although I searched up +and down the main creek some distance still no water to be found, the bed +of the creek is so very sandy. My reason for camping at so short a stage +was that from the top of the hill I was on I fancy I could discern a +continuation of dry-looking country beyond this creek. Very little +spinifex on the way today; plenty of grass and very good travelling; +masses of quartz and mica all along our tracks; ridges low with some +spinifex run in considerably to the east towards the main creek--lots of +myall and other shrubs. The natives are busy burning on the ranges some +distance west of this and have been burning daily ever since we came on +the creek, and I suppose are still unaware of our presence or they would +have paid us a visit. For the last 150 miles at least there have been on +the slopes and tops of all the ranges decaying red anthills, not tenanted +and gradually decaying--many of them appearing like sharp spires and +washed in every shape by the rains and the weather. + +Friday, April 25. + +Camp 42. Mild night, warm morning. Animals all at hand for a good start. +Bearing of 352 degrees; crossed good-sized creek at three and a half +miles; another good-sized creek at eight miles; and at ten and a quarter +miles another, but deep. During first part of the journey over good open +white gum and myall forest; last part ridgy, with spinifex; quartz all +the way; at twelve miles and a half crossed creek; at fourteen and a half +miles crossed creek; native got water by digging in the sand; at sixteen +and a quarter miles changed course to 5 degrees, the ridges and spurs +coming too much in my way; four and three-quarter miles on this last +bearing to a mound of slabs of sparkling stony-like mica, about fifty +feet, and two mounds of similar form, but wooded on the right, no water; +left Middleton here to tell them to camp for the night and watch the +animals, and went myself westward to endeavour to find water for them in +the morning and found it at three miles on bearing of 301 degrees, so +returned; met them just having dinner; repacked and led them to +water--distance travelled twenty-four miles. This is an immense creek and +is still flowing slowly through and over the sand in its bed; it is +upwards of 300 yards wide, comes from the west and south through the +ranges, joins another about a mile north of this and passes round a small +stony hill on its right bank, then takes a northerly course then, and +lastly as far as I could discern, a north-east course. Very heavy gum +timber. I am sorry to say today our marking chisel was lost so we will +not be able to mark any more trees. The creek I have called the Marchant +after William Marchant, Esquire, of Mananarie. The main creek is now a +very considerable distance east. I hoped to have struck it before this +but the spurs from the main range keep it off. Passed today a vast number +of smaller tributaries from west; immense reefs and masses of quartz and +small ranges composed of shining slabs of a grey, tough and wavy stone +with masses of quartz. A good deal of spinifex but no scrub to interrupt +us. Will make for a distant low spur of main range tomorrow in my course. + +Saturday, April 26. + +Camp 43. Very mild night; a great many clouds; a likelihood of rain. +Started on bearing of 336 degrees over a vast quantity of strong +spinifex; bad travelling although not very stony. Not so much quartz +today although large piles of it are to be seen. Crossed Marchant's Creek +and at one mile crossed a tributary. At ten miles came to a very fine +creek about 400 yards broad, in one of its branches from sixty to eighty +yards; broad water completely fills the space as far as you can see +southward and westward. I have called it the Williams after Edward +Williams, Esquire, of the North of Adelaide. Immense holes in a light +blue rock in the creek a few hundred yards north of this full of water +and apparently very deep, an abundance immediately beyond in the creek, +which appears to flow northward. I have come rather a short journey today +as the sheep and bullocks had no time to feed yesterday. Very cloudy and +sultry. Lots of small fish in this creek, none yet seen longer than three +inches; amongst them are a lot of fish about the same size or a little +larger, with fine vertical black stripes commencing at the shoulder and a +black tip to lower part of tail--body generally lighter-coloured than the +other fish. + +Sunday, April 27. + +Camp 44, Williams Creek. Mild night, not so like rain this morning. +Bearing of 355 degrees crossing this creek at an acute angle, crossed +this creek again at three miles, crossed again at five miles--creek close +on the right; at six and one-eighth miles crossed a deep tributary at its +junction--heavy timber, plenty of water. Williams Creek still close on +the right full of spinifex on the slopes and short rough abrupt creeks; +bad travelling; at seven and three-quarter miles commenced travelling in +bed of the creek, west side, till eight and three-quarter miles, the +creek bearing off more to the east. At present I keep on my course of 355 +degrees, over good country the latter part of course. At thirteen miles +came to and crossed a splendid creek with abundance of water and lots of +fish coming from the hills west and flowing apparently east. This creek I +have called the Elder after Thomas Elder, Esquire, of Adelaide. + +Monday, April 28. + +Camp 45, Elder's Creek. Last night we slept in the bed of the creek on +the sand. There must have been a terrific flood here lately, such as this +part of the world has not been visited with for many years; between +thirty and forty feet over our heads in the bed of this creek are now to +be seen logs, grass, and all sorts of rubbish left by it; and immense +trees torn up by the roots, and others broken off short at twenty to +thirty feet from their roots--showing the violence of the current. No +doubt there is plenty of permanent water in the range further up in the +last three creeks we have camped on. Mild morning with fleecy clouds. +Wind south-south-west. Another deep creek joins this where we struck it, +coming more from the south-west; water at its junction with this. Plenty +of water up this creek; did not go down it. Our journey today on bearing +of 355 degrees over sixteen and three-quarter miles was over good, +lightly-timbered, well-grassed country and a good deal of flooded +country. Saw no water but lots of birds. Shot an emu. Changed course to +347 degrees for a small hill in the distance and at two and a half miles +crossed several irregular watercourses from the north flowing to south +and east; went then to a small spinifex rise, timbered. At eight and a +half miles struck a creek with water; I have called it Poole's Creek +after Mr. R.T. Poole of Willaston. Distance travelled today twenty-five +and a half miles. After getting into camp myself and Middleton went on to +the hill in front and at two and a quarter miles arrived at it. It is +perfectly detached and stands in the open plain--is very stony or rather +rocky. Open plains to the north and west as far as you can discern; to +the north-north-east appears dark timber which I hope to be the main +creek, and appears to be bearing to north and west. A couple of isolated +hills from fifteen to twenty miles off bearing respectively, the southern +one 251 1/2 degrees, the northern one 254 degrees. The southern one I +have called Mount Elephant, the one to the north Mount McPherson, and the +one I am on Margaret. Another in the distance bearing 258 degrees. + +Tuesday, April 29. + +Camp 46, Poole's Creek. This creek takes its rise from the westward on +the plains between this and the hills which are now a considerable +distance from us; and after passing this encampment bears to east round +by north. Mild morning, wind easterly. Shot two young emus. Pass over +immense plains with small belts of bushes here and there and in places +more especially near the isolated hill on the plain. At eleven and a +quarter miles further came to a watercourse from the westward and flowing +considerably to north of east with plenty of water. Camped to give sheep +and bullocks time to feed, as it was half-past 8 p.m. ere they reached +their camp last night, and one of the bullocks considerably lame. +Distance travelled about thirteen and a half miles. Instead of plains, as +I have called this open country, it is rather very gentle undulations and +a considerable portion of it occasionally inundated as for instance of +late. Another large waterhole in this course at about a mile on bearing +of 355 degrees; the creek then appears to bear off to the eastward. I +will still hold on my course of 15 degrees, but would sooner it were 25 +degrees west of north as on that course I would be going pretty direct +for the mouth of the River Albert, now I imagine about 150 miles distant, +if the watch has not put me too much out--it stops sometimes and when it +does go it gains one hour in twelve. + +Wednesday, April 30. + +Camp 47. Blackfellows burning grass to east-south-east of us; the first +bushfire we have seen; morning pleasant with wind from south-south-east. +Some or nearly all complained of being sick after eating the first emu, +but I liked it much and so did some of the others; they are a great +acquisition and have saved us three sheep; the largest weighed when ready +for the pot forty-eight pounds; the smaller ones when ready for use +thirty-one and thirty-three pounds, and are much better than the old one. +The grass passed over yesterday although abundant is rank and not of that +sweet description we have before seen, but no doubt excellent for cattle +and horses. Just as the animals were being brought in for packing Davis +found, in a small shallow pool nearly dry, numbers of small nice-looking +fish of two sorts--longest not more than three and a half inches; one +sort like the catfish of the Murray, the other spotted like a salmon. For +five miles over timbered plains on a bearing of 345 degrees; at three and +a half miles struck a small creek coming from west and south with plenty +of water; and at five and a quarter miles further an immense deep creek +with water (gum) crossed at rightangles from the western banks which are +very precipitous. I have called it the Jessie. At six miles came to and +crossed a noble river, now a creek as it is not running, but plenty of +water; from 300 to 400 yards broad. At crossing the first, cabbage palm +seen on its western bank between this and the last creek; on left of +course is a splendid belt of white gums on the dry sound flat; this +river, like the other creek, flows from south of west after crossing a +northerly and easterly course; I have called it the Jeannie after a young +lady friend of mine. At fourteen and a half miles came to a fine lagoon +running easterly and westerly; good water in abundance; went round it and +camped north-west side, as the natives are firing close by on the +south-east side; distance nineteen and a half miles. For some +considerable distance back it has been an open timbered country; plenty +of myall and useful white butt gum; drainage as yet all to the east and +slightly north. I thought the Jeannie bore more north but it bore off +again to the eastward; no game of any kind seen today except a turkey; a +great quantity of vines on which grows four or five black fruit, like +peas and extremely hard, from every flower, and on which the emu appears +to feed much. There were also two other vines or runners on which grow an +oblong fruit about one to one and a half inches long, green like +cucumber, but bitter; the other is a round fruit about the size of a +walnut, darker in colour than the other, not so abundant, and which the +emu seems to exist much on at present. Some seeds of each and many +shrubs, flowers, and fruits before new to me I have obtained. A number of +partially-dried lagoons all round this about three-quarters of a mile +long; one is about six feet deep; a very fine sheet of water. + +Thursday, May 1. + +Camp 48. Beautiful cool breeze from east-south-east; one native seen by +Palmer (who was behind with the bullocks) running the tracks of the +horses and camels, but when he saw Palmer he was off at full speed; it is +strange we don't fall in with more of them in a country where there +appears to be lots of food and water for them; started on bearing of 330 +degrees, at 120 yards crossed a partially dry lagoon, at a quarter of a +mile another, then splendid open forest, well timbered and grassed; at +two and a quarter miles struck a creek flowing about 20 degrees north of +east, deep sandy bed, no water, followed it down for one mile bearing 70 +degrees and crossed, not being able to get up the opposite banks being so +abrupt; although there is no water here no doubt from the look of the +creek there is abundance both above and below, dead palm tree branches +amongst the creek-wash; bearing of 330 degrees through splendid open +forest and well grassed; at one mile crossed the same creek flowing to +north of west, at three and a quarter miles struck it again and crossed +it flowing to north of east, and just in a turning to north, still no +water in its bed, at three and three-quarter miles struck it again but +did not cross it, it appearing to bear to north-east out of our tracks; +bearing of 290 degrees one mile, creek on right hand; bearing of 330 +degrees five miles; then bearing of 322 1/2 degrees for one and +three-quarter miles; bearing of 330 degrees three miles over open plains +with a few shrubs occasionally, came to a small creek flowing to north of +east, plenty of water; distance travelled seventeen and three-quarter +miles; the grass on all the very open country was very dry and little +substance in it, along the large creek passed and crossed various times +reeds first met with; the large creek when last seen was bearing to west +of north a long distance off, beyond an open plain; the creek I am now +upon divides into several branches just here, which makes this one so +small. Shot a new bird--dark grey, large tail, something like a pheasant +in its flight; it always starts from the ground and settles awkwardly on +the trees, its tail appearing a nuisance to it; the specimen shot is too +much torn for preservation. The days now are very warm and the nights +very agreeable. Short as the time is since they must have had the rain +here it is astonishing how it has dried up in many places. The large +creek crossed yesterday I have called the William after a young friend of +mine. + +Friday, May 2. + +Camp 49. Beautiful morning; wind south-south-west. Bearing 330 degrees +over a plain and at three miles crossed a watercourse flowing east; at +three and three-quarter miles crossed another with plenty of water on +right hand flowing to north of east; at seven and three-quarter miles +came to and crossed a narrow deep creek, plenty water, about fifty yards +wide, and have named it the Dugald, flowing north-north-east; small +ranges visible at crossing this creek; beyond a plain at south-west; nice +open forest before crossing this creek; at ten and a quarter miles over +small stony plain, or rather bald hill, as it ascends and descends; came +to and crossed a box and gum small watercourse; dry at crossing; first +part over plain and latter part over myall forest undulations; at twelve +and three-quarter miles came to irregular small creeks flowing to +north-north-east, plenty of water; at eighteen miles came to a small +creek from the ridges on our left with sufficient water for all useful +purposes. From the last creek, undulations of fair and spinifex country; +and slopes of ridges covered with spinifex (slopes to northward). At this +creek there are a number of beautiful shady trees, leaves about four or +five inches broad and from five to six inches long; besides gums and +various other trees. Spinifex on both sides of the creek down to its +edge. A hill of no great height ahead of us in our course for tomorrow. +Saw plenty of turkey. + +Saturday, May 3. + +Camp 50. Fleecy clouds; wind east-south-east, blew pretty strong towards +morning. Started on bearing of 330 degrees; for first three miles over +spinifex ridge then small grass flat and another small spinifex ridge; at +four miles over a good-sized plain (drainage all towards south and west +towards heavy timber--where there is I suppose a large creek or river +from the south) and across a small spinifex stony range. Cleared it at +twelve and a quarter miles, following along the slopes of the hills, +drainage west and north; at fourteen miles came to a watercourse, +drainage north, abundance of water; followed along numerous watercourses +both on right and left with plenty of water, and along what is here the +principal creek--not so much water in it although it is better defined. +Camped at sixteen miles. The feed on the open ground is as dry as tinder +and not at all of first-class quality, the only green feed being about +the creek and watercourses. A great abundance of those fine shady +broad-leaved trees; they would be a great ornament in a park; it bears an +abundance of seed but not ripe at present although I have taken some of +it. Very sultry. + +Sunday, May 4. + +Camp 51. Mild night and morning. Our small stock of sheep got out of the +fold in the night and half of them are missing this morning; I hope they +may be got. Sky a good deal overcast. Wind east. I am glad that the +missing sheep, after a little looking for, were found close by; the loss +of them would have deprived us of at least seven days' food, which would +be no light matter in a country where we seldom can even shoot a duck, +much less sufficient for all the party who are now, I am happy to say, in +excellent health. As this creek--which I have called Davis Creek after +one of the party--bears a good deal on my course of yesterday, and has a +good many irregularities near the bank which make it rough travelling, I +have changed my course to north-west or 315 degrees; at one mile cleared +the creek although it keeps pretty close on my present course and appears +to be hemmed in on the right by the last ridge I crossed yesterday; then +over plains and belts of myall gum; at five and three-quarter miles +crossed a small creek flowing northward over similar country, but more +sound; at ten and a half miles crossed a couple of small creeks flowing +northward (the natives burning a short distance on our left); then over a +variety of fair open country and a small portion of very thick and +scrubby myall forest; then over spinifex ridge; then over well grassed +tablelands for several miles; then over pretty thickly timbered spinifex +rise of considerable length; and lastly for the last five miles over +plains, light belts of timber here and there; got to a creek with +sufficient water at twenty-seven and three-quarter miles. Long day, +rather; did not see a drop of water the whole way, but I fancy we could +have had what we desired at the early part of the day but we did not +require it. The sheep and bullocks got to camp about 8 o'clock p.m., an +astonishing journey for the poor little fellows; they are now, with the +constant travelling and the long coarse grass, falling off in condition, +but had they the feed they were accustomed to they would be much better; +as it is they are far from poor--kidneys well-covered yet and fairish +caul fat. + +Monday, May 5. + +Camp 52. Mild night with dew and calm, still morning; very cloudy and +rainy-like to north and south of east. Heard a native wailing for some +lost friend or relation during the night but as yet have seen none of +them, although they were burning on left of our track yesterday within +two miles. This creek comes from southward and flows to west of north +considerably; it is well defined with box timber, but not at all deep; it +appears more like a side creek to a larger stream. There is here a +considerable plain on both sides and as yet no main creek visible +although I fancy there must be one, all the drainage yesterday being to +left of our course, no doubt to meet some large creek to south and west. +Started on bearing of 315 degrees; crossed the creek obliquely at +starting; then over a plain; at three and a quarter miles into a mulga +forest, or rather belts of it, and amongst which there was at three and a +quarter miles a swamp with water; then over plains and a gentle rise, +thinly interspersed with small lots of shrubs and thin belts of timber +(light); at thirteen and a half miles to a watercourse, sufficient water +for our use, although rather opaque, but we can easily put up with that +once in a way. I have made the journey short today in consequence of +yesterday's one being so long. At the conclusion of today's stage from my +calculations it places me exactly on Gregory's track, twenty miles east +of where he crossed the Leichhardt River. I hope in reality it may be so, +but I am hardly sanguine enough to expect it, taking everything into +consideration--bad time-keeping watch and nothing to go by but the guess +of your horse's pace. + +Tuesday, May 6. + +Camp 53. Dull morning, cloudy, wind south-south-west. A vast number of +galahs, corellas, macaws, cockatoo parrots, hawks, and crows here. +Started on bearing of 310 degrees over alternate plains and through belts +of small timber. At seven miles passed swampy country where some heavy +belts of timber are to the right of course. A great number of birds; +water I am sure could be had if required; over alternate plains and +strips of forest as before. At seventeen and three-quarter miles came to +a native camp near swamp (water). Saw two of them in the distance some +few miles further, but they scampered off and I did not go after them. +Over similar country, latterly more open and even. At twenty-two and a +half miles struck the Leichhardt River at what appears an island. Plenty +of deep water; banks too precipitous for the animals to water. Followed +down it bearing 330 degrees for two and a half miles and came to a bend +of the river. Good sound watering-place; shingly and sandy beach for +about a mile. Camped near the upper end of it. Hodgkinson caught a small +fish; large one seen but not caught. It is a splendid river and from bank +to bank is from 150 to 180 yards where we are encamped; but the water is +here and for nearly a mile confined to a space of fifteen to twenty +yards. Here on the western side, and a little further in at a +crossing-place on the eastern side where it is still running a nice +little stream, stony bottom, and only a couple or three yards wide. + +Wednesday, May 7. + +Camp 54. Very dull morning and sultry; every appearance of rain, sky +perfectly overcast. Started down bed of river on east side on bearing of +37 degrees for one and one-eighth miles; crossed; a quarter of a mile on +bearing of 220 degrees; bearing 260 degrees for one mile, following along +the western banks of river, where it is full of sand and timber, and +fully 500 yards wide; bearing 282 degrees, still along the banks for half +a mile; then bearing of 310 degrees as the river goes suddenly off north +and eastward; one mile on last bearing through, since crossing river, +pretty open forest land; on bearing of 352 degrees at one and a quarter +miles came to a fine lagoon or swamp with plenty of water and green +grass; bearing of 352 degrees, at half a mile further crossed a deep dry +creek going west to or by the swamp, at one and a half miles further came +to and crossed a deepish creek from the south and west, sandy bottom +(water); at one and three-quarter miles further struck the river, plenty +of fresh water, and good crossing if necessary; at two and three-quarter +miles further came to a nice lagoon, plenty of water and feed, river +apparently some distance off, on the right; at seven and three-quarter +miles further over open forest and plains with light timber. Seeing no +chance of water ahead changed course for the Leichhardt; bearing of 109 +1/2 degrees for 3 and one-third miles to river; crossed it and camped in +the sandy bed; lots of stones for the last two miles and stony about the +riverbank. + +Thursday, May 8. + +Camp 55. Strong south breeze, all appearance of rain blown away. Started +on bearing of 355 degrees, water in the way; at one mile, between the +start and that, there were stones and a little spinifex; then over open +plains, small belts of clumps of small trees; halted at nine and a half +miles; water quite sufficient for our use. I never saw such flights of +Sturt's pigeons--at times completely darkening the ground over which they +flew--a vast body of them seem to be wending their way to north-west from +south-east, but vast numbers are here on the plains notwithstanding; +natives burning on the Leichhardt in all directions, and one or two fires +towards the Albert; took Middleton with me to ascertain what kind of +country there is between camp and coast. On bearing of 355 degrees at six +miles came to and crossed a creek, plenty of water, flowing to +north-north-east; at sixteen and a half miles struck a creek with heavy +box and gum timber, and water where we struck it in small lagoons and +side creeks. Camped; natives burning ahead of us and a little east. A +great portion of the country we have come over from camp is inundated and +has now coarse grass and reeds. This creek flows here about north; south +of this it comes more to the north-north-east. + +Friday, May 9. + +Middleton and I still out; party in camp. Started on bearing of 40 +degrees; wind strong, south; at three and a half miles struck the creek, +now a very considerable size and flowing to the eastward and a little +south; followed it for a quarter of a mile, keeping it on the left on +bearing of about 110 degrees, and crossed it at a long grassy flat; in +its bed native wurlies between where we first struck it and crossed it; +bearing of 40 degrees, long deep reach of water, banks well defined; +bearing of 40 degrees, at three-quarters of a mile, creek, recrossed same +on a bed of lava, all rent, abundance of water; at five and a half miles +further struck the Leichhardt, its bed vast sheets of stones--rocks and +small stones opposite side, lower down--the water in its bed is about or +upwards of 150 yards wide; at two miles, bearing of about 210 degrees, +struck the river at a stony and rocky fall and went westward half a mile +to avoid the bend; struck river again at three miles on same course as +above; then at four miles struck the river, water in its full width now +upwards of 250 yards, a splendid-looking place, and lined on its banks +with splendid timber of various kinds, with a variety of palms, etc.; +then to the southward of south-west for between six and eight miles, but +the rugged banks were so intricate that it was impossible to calculate +the distance correctly; in a great many places, half a mile from the +riverbanks, the plains drop off precipitously from three to ten feet, and +slope off in undermined deep earthy creeks, finishing at last in deep +reedy creeks close to the river; water in nearly all the side creeks and +compelled us to keep out, but sometimes we were caught in them, thinking +the timber we were advancing to was a lagoon or belt of timber, and then +we were compelled to go round it; then cross a very fine creek running +into the river the same, I believe, we crossed yesterday about six miles +from camp on our outward course. From this to our camp I make out about +thirteen miles on a bearing of about 200 degrees; got to camp about 8 +p.m., for the last seven miles guided by a roman candle shot off at the +camp. Fireworks are most useful in expeditions of this kind as in many +cases some of our party have been guided up to camp near midnight. + +Saturday, May 10. + +Camp 56. Very cold during the night; in the morning wind south-east but +beautiful weather. Started on bearing of 20 degrees over land subject to +frequent inundations, with reeds thinly scattered over it and narrow belt +of small timber. At twelve miles came to and crossed the creek seen on +our way out on Thursday afternoon last, about six miles from camp (56 the +camp). At thirteen miles struck a lagoon, then another, and another at +fourteen and a quarter miles, all of which have abundance of water; at +the last of which I encamped, excellent feed. I forgot to mention that +yesterday on return to camp from first striking in Leichhardt's River I +observed apparently a native firing the grass a short distance on my +right. I made towards it and saw one coming steadily towards us, still +spying us, retreated at full speed; as I had some fish-hooks and line I +was determined to pull him or her up. Started off and overtook what +turned out to be a gin and her piccaninie, and had a load of something, +which in her retreat she dropped. She screamed and cooeed and set fire to +the grass all around us to endeavour to get rid of us, but all to no +purpose. I held out to her a fish-hook but she would not take them to +look at even, but busied herself screaming and firing the grass; upon +which I got off the horse and approached her. She immediately lifted up +her yam-stick in the position the men throw their spears, and prepared to +defend herself, until at last she quieted down on observing the +fish-hook, and advanced a step or two and took it from me, evidently +knowing the use of it. I then gave her a line and another hook, and by +signs explained to her that I would return in the direction the day +following. She wished me to understand something, holding up four of her +fingers, but what she meant I could not guess. I tried to make out from +her how far the coast was, making motions as if paddling a canoe, but +could not get any information; as soon as we were clear off she set to +work to make an immense smoke to attract the notice of her people to give +them the news. This afternoon three of the party went over +east-south-east about three-quarters of a mile to the river and caught +about a dozen fish of small size and three different sorts, and a turtle +about a foot long. The river during the day has almost always been in +sight from thirty six miles off till crossing the creek, when it was not +more than one mile off. + +Sunday, May 11. + +Camp 57. Could not have finer weather for travelling; abundance of feed, +though on anything like high ground it has shed its seed and is now dry; +plenty of good water as yet and fair feed round it generally. Lagoons +wooded round generally with rusty gum, box, and white gum; wind +east-south-east and pleasant. Started to clear some broken slopes ahead +towards the river on bearing of 345 degrees. At two miles over plains +came to and crossed a creek running into the river about a mile off; at +two and a quarter miles changed course to 9 degrees, over open +country--generally sloping to north-east from river with plenty of water +on each side; at six and three-quarter miles struck the river at the +falls. Messenger overtook me to say that one of the bullocks we had been +using for the pack could not be brought on so determined to kill and jerk +him; and went west half a mile on a small creek with running water and +where the feed was better and more green than on the river. The bullock +was got to camp about evening and slaughtered; plenty of guardfish, +swordfish, and sharks under the falls, which are about fifty to sixty +feet high with no current. Deep water above and below, and water oozing +through the fissures of the rock which appears a sort of burnt limestone +and indifferent agate. Found an eatable fruit on a handsome tree of the +palm kind. + +Monday, May 12. + +Camp 58. Wind south-south-west; not an ounce of fat upon the bullock; +won't take so long to jerk. I started out today to examine the country +ahead, taking with me Middleton and Poole. At one mile over plain 5 +degrees; changed course to 355 degrees; at five and a half miles struck +the river and changed course to 285 degrees; at five-sixths of a mile +struck and crossed creek from south to river; at two and five-sixths +miles crossed smaller one from same direction; at a quarter of a mile +further changed course to 340 degrees; at eleven and three-quarter miles +over very bad travelling country, plains subject to much inundation, to a +creek running into the river with splendid water and feed; at twelve and +a half miles came to the river, with an immense sand-spit opposite; +appears to be within the influence of the sea and is about 600 yards wide +and dry half across. A number of pelicans up some distance; water either +brackish a little or with some other peculiarity about it. Started for +apparently another bend of the river, on bearing of 329 degrees. One and +three-quarter miles saw a lagoon, on the left ahead; and as the horses +are tired will bear for it and turn them out. Course 282 degrees, +three-quarters of a mile; abundance of water and feed; lots of geese, +ibis, ducks, and spoonbills. North three-quarters of a mile from this is +the river, about 500 yards wide, treeless on the west bank and cliffs +about twenty to thirty feet high, all round an immense sweep; sandy beach +opposite, within the influence of the sea, a rise and fall of four feet +observed--and at high-water a little brackish. Caught a few fish; the +only thing we had for supper; would have done well had there been +sufficient of them. + +Tuesday, May 13. + +Started on bearing of 330 degrees for a distant point like river timber +which turned out to be a small hill or ridge with spinifex; a lagoon on +the left at its base; struck it at five miles. At five and a half miles +changed course to 355 degrees; at ten miles first part over firm, small, +stony plains, good country; then at four miles crossed a salty timberless +creek; and then over a succession of salt swampy flats with grassy plots +intervening. Middleton's mare Counterfeit knocked up and he had to stay +with her. I and Poole went on on a bearing of 355 degrees still; at two +miles came to a mangrove creek; at two and a quarter miles the banks of +the Albert River; salt arm, from half to three-quarters of a mile broad. +Returned to Middleton and started back for the Leichhardt River on +bearing of 110 degrees to camp, as soon as we could get water and feed, +to endeavour to get the mare back to camp or part of the way. On bearing +of 110 degrees for about four miles, first part over salt swamps; passed +a long rocky lagoon full of water and half a mile long from north to +south, and several other smaller ones between that and the river; +mangrove banks in all the flat parts. Banks on this side treeless; +country much burnt up. Top tide at least five hours earlier than when we +camped last night; caught a few fish--in all about enough for one but had +to do for the three of us. Rise and fall of river somewhere about five +feet. + +Wednesday, May 14. + +Wind south; was very cloudy during the night and this morning; mosquitoes +very troublesome during the night. Bearing homewards 170 to 215 degrees +for the first eight or ten miles, leaving Poole and Middleton to get on +to our first camp till I bring on the party on the morrow. Got to camp +myself a little after sundown, and to my disgust found all the camels +astray and Bell and Davis in search of them. + +Thursday, May 15. + +Start Hodgkinson and Maitland on to Middleton and Poole's camp with four +horses, bedding, and provisions on such a course, 25 1/2 degrees west of +north, as will cut their camp. No tidings of the camels. I went out and +hunted about for them till noon, and just as I got to camp Bell and Davis +returned, having camped out all night after them, but saw nothing of +them--the ground is so hard they leave so little impression on the ground +that it is a difficult thing to trace them; however they have got bells +and hobbles on and will at once be again sent after, with, I hope, more +success. I am exceedingly annoyed at the detention here, more so as the +animals don't do so well here as they have done. Hunted still during the +afternoon for them, but without success. All spare hands will start out +in search in the morning; it will be the sound of the bells or the sight +of them only that will recover them, as track them we cannot in this dry +country. Promised the party a treat on arriving within the influence of +the sea on the north coast, so had baked some flour kept in reserve and +each had a liberal allowance served out to him--that with fresh and +excellent mutton and some salt I brought back from the flats gave all +quite a treat. Sent Poole and Middleton theirs on by Hodgkinson and +Maitland, which in their present half-starved condition would be a still +greater treat. We would all have been in better spirits had the camels +not been absent, but will hunt well for them tomorrow and trust we may +recover them. + +Friday, May 16. + +I with Bell and Davis started out first thing after the camels, leaving +Palmer, Wylde and Kirby in camp. Searched back towards the old camp again +although they had assured me they had thoroughly searched all the leading +creeks, but I had little faith in their search, which the result proved. +At about six miles south-south-west in one of the creeks that they +particularly assured me had been well-searched I, with Davis, found their +traces (Bell having been sent in another direction) and after losing +their track for about six or seven hours succeeded in finding them about +twelve or thirteen miles south and west of this, I fancy more by accident +than anything else, at about an hour and a half to sunset, and +immediately started to camp where they arrived all right and are now tied +up for the night ready for a morning start, and very glad am I that they +are found. + +Saturday, May 17. + +Camp 58. Sultry, wind east. All the animals ready for a start and happy +am I to turn my back on this camp which I call Rowdy Creek Falls Camp +after the poor little bullock we killed here, which gave us about 70 +pounds of such stuff as one could hardly imagine without seeing +it--nothing like a particle of fat visible anywhere and excessively +tasteless. It is fortunate our two remaining bullocks are in better +condition or we would not be in the most enviable plight on our arrival +at the settled districts, Queensland. Started on bearing of 335 1/2 +degrees over good open country. At two and three-quarter miles came to +and crossed a creek coming up from south-south-west; in that direction +there are falls and sheets of rock quite across it and forming above and +below them splendid reaches of deep water with numberless ducks, etc., +and black macaws and gillates in thousands. Plenty of water in our course +beyond the creek for half to three-quarters of a mile; then over plains +intersected with thin belts of small trees, the river not far off on our +right. At seven and a quarter miles changed course to 334 degrees, +keeping a little farther from the river. At fifteen and three-quarter +miles got to camp, found all right. Natives burning grass close upon our +right on the way here to windward at a furious rate. What their +particular object can be in burning so much of the country I cannot +understand. No natives as yet have voluntarily shown themselves. I met +the same lubra and child again near the same place that I before met her, +but she did not this time attempt to fire the grass round me. A short way +on further I met, or rather overtook, another lubra with two children; +she tried at first to conceal herself but when she saw that she was +observed she immediately set to work to burn the grass round us in all +directions. However I got off the horse and walked towards her, holding +out a fish-hook to her; she did not hesitate much but came forward and +took it and I went on my way. Saw no natives since but look where you +may, except north, and you will see fires raging. About two miles from +this and on our left as we came along is a fine lagoon in the midst of +timber. The tide it appears rises here now from six to ten feet. Not many +fish caught. + +Sunday, May 18. + +Camp 59. Wind easterly; heavy bank of dark clouds to the west and the sun +rose not so bright as usual. Over open plains, bad travelling; on bearing +of 340 degrees at four and a quarter miles struck an immense lagoon +(semicircular) and kept it on our right for nearly three-quarters of a +mile, then still bore 340 degrees for one-seventh of a mile further; then +changed course to 17 degrees; at half a mile struck and went through a +swampy lagoon going east; at three and a quarter miles river close by on +the right; at four and three-quarter miles came to large lagoons in our +course; went a little to the left and passed between two, appears to be a +very heavy one to the left close by. Still on bearing of 17 degrees; at +one and a quarter miles further large lagoon close on right; a couple of +hundred yards further on on the right is a fine creek with abundance of +water and game; at eight miles crossed it still on bearing of 17 degrees; +at two miles further on struck a fine large mangrove creek, a very pretty +spot like an orange grove. Bearing of 321 1/2 degrees for two miles; then +bearing of 35 degrees, crossed the sea running in through mangrove creeks +into the flats like a sluice, and camped at a lagoon and couple of fresh +water-holes close by the river at one mile. We are now perfectly +surrounded by salt water, the river on one side and the mangrove creeks +and salt flats on the other; I question much whether we shall be able to +get to the beach with the horses. Since noon the wind changed to +north-north-west; country very much burnt by the natives--it was dry +enough as it was without the additional use of fire. Lots of the +waterlily in bloom on all the deep waterholes and lagoons, and a very +handsome tree with dark green foliage and a beautiful yellow blossom, and +completely loaded with a round fruit of the size of a crab-apple, now +green, and containing a number of large-sized seeds, some of which have +been gathered, but I fancy they are too green to save the seed. + +Monday, May 19. + +Camp 60. In camp near the river where are caught occasionally by the +party a few fish, amongst others a young shark which however was not +eaten; started out this morning with the intention of going to the beach, +taking with me Middleton, Poole, Wylde and Kirby, but was quite +unsuccessful, being hindered by deep and broad mangrove creeks and boggy +flats over which our horses could not travel. I consider we are now about +four or five miles from the coast; there is a rise here in the river of +six and two-thirds feet today but yesterday it was a foot higher; killed +our three remaining sheep and will retrace our steps on 21st. + +Tuesday, May 20. + +Camp 60. Wind yesterday from north and north and east, at daylight this +morning from north, and during the day pretty nearly from all quarters; +afternoon kept more steady from east; sent Hodgkinson and Poole to the +salt flats to collect what will be sufficient for our homeward rambles, +or rather the Queensland settled districts, where we hope to arrive in +due time, the state of the clothing of the party and want of various +things--the principal thing, food, has prevented my directing the steps +of the party to the settled districts of South Australia. A few natives +came to the opposite side of the river this morning during flood-tide and +got up in the trees, and I was a long time in getting any of them +persuaded to cross; at length two of them and then another middle-aged +man ventured on my displaying a tomahawk to them; they were of the +ordinary stamp, and strange to say were neither circumcised nor had they +any of their front teeth out, but were marked down the upper part of the +arm and on the breast and back; after making them a few presents they +recrossed; no information from them, but perhaps we may see something +more of them on a future day. Hodgkinson and Poole returned with from +forty to fifty pounds of good salt, sufficient for our purpose, and we +start in the morning to proceed as far as the Falls, and cross the river +there in the event of not finding a crossing earlier, which I don't +expect. The camels I am sorry to say are getting lame by the burnt stumps +of reeds and strong coarse grass entering the soles of their feet, I hope +they will soon recover. If the bar at the mouth of the river will admit +vessels to enter there is a sufficiency of water at all tides to ship +horses or stock from alongside the banks without any wharf or anything +else, and good country to depasture upon, but the grasses too strong +generally for sheep. + +Wednesday, May 21. + +Camp 60. Commenced our journey for Port Denison, wind east-south-east. I +forgot to mention before that, running parallel with the river between +this camp and our last, are small ironstone and conglomerate ridges, with +abundance of feed and good sound ground wooded with the silver leaf, +dwarf gum-looking tree, and various others of no great growth but +sightly, and in the ridges, which are of no height to speak of, there are +splendid freshwater lagoons and creeks; came to a lagoon about two and a +half miles south-south-west of our 59 camp on nearly our old tracks; +splendid feed and water. Just as we had started in the morning the +natives made their appearance on the trees on the opposite side of the +river but did not attempt to cross. I suppose we will see enough of them +on our eastern route; this part of the country is well watered and no end +of feed; plenty of it higher than I am, and a considerable variety; the +remainder of our sheep, even with their long journey, fell off but +little. + +Thursday, May 22. + +Return Camp 1. Beautiful morning; this lagoon is about twelve feet deep, +surrounded by a marsh with abundance of green feed. Not a breath of wind +at sunrise. West of this camp about two and a half miles off is a +considerable-sized creek, by the overflow of which this lagoon is formed +and fed; plenty of water in the creek and in side creeks from it, and +most excellent timber on its banks and flats for building purposes; it +comes up from south-west and after passing this bears off considerably to +west of north. I have called it the Fisher after C.B. Fisher, Esquire, of +Adelaide. Returned today by my north-going track, the approaches to the +river were so abrupt that I could not get a crossing-place; some of the +banks nearly precipitous and from one hundred to one hundred and fifty +feet high, although I saw rocks right across the river and could have +gone over, but could not ascend the banks so came to camp at a lagoon +close to the creek, three and a half miles north 25 1/2 degrees west of +Falls camp. This creek, which comes up from the south-west and flows past +this for some miles yet before it joins the river about north-north-east +of this, I have called Boord's Creek after Samuel Boord, Esquire, of +Adelaide. + +Friday, May 23. + +Camp 2. Started on bearing of 135 degrees; at starting crossed the creek, +and at three and a half miles made the river where it is joined by +another of quite equal size apparently but no crossing-place; so had to +go about one mile south-south-west to the Falls and crossed there with +some difficulty, getting one of the camels and several of the horses down +on the clefts of the rocks and barking their knees a little: just after +crossing and proceeding on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees a marked tree was +observed, the first we had seen, and then close by two others, evidently +by Mr. Landsborough. They were respectively marked on the large tree next +the Falls, a large broad-leafed tree, arrow at 1 o'clock LFE. 15, 1862. +C.5. On the northernmost of the other two trees, about twenty paces to +eastward of the large tree, are a large arrow at 1 o'clock and L facing +the west, and on the other gumtree, a few feet north-east, is the letter +E of large dimensions; facing the opposite way or east we dug round the +tree but could find nothing deposited; saw the remains of broken bottles +and fancied from the broad arrow being pointed upwards that a document in +a small bottle might have been suspended high up in the tree and got at +by the natives, but on after consideration I took the meaning of the +arrow being up that up the river was his course; we saw the traces of his +horses at the marked trees, but the tracks must be quite obliterated up +the river or we must have seen something of them; indeed the heavy rain +that inundated the whole country south commenced where we were on the +27th February, and perhaps he had it a little earlier, which may account +for our not seeing any traces of him ere this. Which way he may have gone +under the circumstances is hard to say, as no doubt he experienced very +rough wet weather indeed, and probably was put to many shifts in +consequence of the heavy overflow of the immense creeks. At scarcely one +mile on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees we came to the falls of the other +branch of the river, and crossed it much more easily than the other; it +is about 400 to 500 yards broad and all conglomerate stone, and quite +treeless or nearly so on its banks as far as the stones went, it then +bore off to the south-east or perhaps east of that; at three miles +further, seeing ridges ahead on our course, we camped at a swamp; lots of +geese and ibis. Marked a small tree near Landsborough's with MK +(conjoined), May 22, 1862, with a knife, as we had no chisel or gouge, +they being lost. + +Saturday, May 24. + +Camp 3. Heavy dew of late; last afternoon wind fresh from +west-south-west; same this morning but light; geese and all game very +difficult to be got at in this part of the country. Natives burning in +all directions but do not approach us; I almost fancy they have been +reproved for some of their misdeeds to some one or other of the parties +here lately, from their shyness. Bearing of 95 1/2 degrees, half a mile +stony flat; one mile, stony ridge and ironstone flat; two and +three-quarter miles small creek; lagoon with plenty of water. +North-north-east open undulations rather swampy; at three and +three-quarter miles struck and crossed a small creek with a little water, +stony ridges (ironstone) rusty gum, spinifex, etc.; at eleven and +three-quarter miles crossed creek with water from north-east. Left creek +at 11.45; stony ridges, ironstone and slate, with a little spinifex; +rather thickly wooded with rusty gum, silver-leafed gum, etc.; anthills, +turreted shapes. At twenty-one and three-quarter miles came to and +crossed a creek on a plain between ranges; it flows north and east and +takes its rise in the ranges close by to the south-west; plenty of water +and feed. Camped at 3.30 p.m.; take three and a quarter miles off journey += eighteen and a half. + +Sunday, May 25. + +Camp 4. No dew; started at 8.35 a.m.; wind south a.m.; afternoon +south-east. Over half a mile open plain; then ridges, and on top of first +range at 9.53; very rocky; spinifex, rusty gum, etc. At twenty minutes +past ten stony flat; at twenty-five minutes past ten crossed creek; at 12 +o'clock along creek on the left; at 12.15 rocky hill on right and lagoon +with water close under; top of next hill at 12.50; at 1.5 on the open +plains and undulations and pretty well clear of the stones. Tier of +ranges immediately on the left for a mile or so; at 2.18 crossed dry +creek from west-south-west; at 2.28 came to another creek from the +south-west. They are both dry where struck; followed the last one down, +bearing of 60 degrees for one-third of a mile; water in creek and in a +lagoon on the east side; travelling about six hours besides the one-third +of a mile. Creek flows to north-east; distance about eighteen miles. + +Monday, May 26. + +Camp 5. I find that my watch, the only one in going order or rather +disorder, gains eleven minutes in the hour with the regulator hard back +to slow--now and then, without any apparent cause, stops; until by sundry +shakings and bumps it is prevailed upon to go again--which is most +unsatisfactory, situated as I am here, in calculating distances. Wind all +night strong from south-east to south-south-east and very cold; no dew. +The waters are drying up very fast; during the afternoon of yesterday the +country looked well; nice open ranges on all sides with a large space of +open country, well grassed in the centre. Started at 8.15 a.m. on bearing +of 95 1/2 degrees; at 9.17 passed till this time rather thickly wooded +(low) small ironstone, pebbly country, well grassed--ridgy on both sides; +at 9.17 entered open plains; large creek ahead; first part of plain much +subject to inundation; at 11.24 lagoon apparently about one mile south. +Hills cease south about four miles; passed a couple of belts of timber, +mistaken in the distance for large creek. At 1 p.m. swampy (dry); at 1.15 +small creek with plenty of water and feed, from west-south-west to +north-east or east-north-east; at 1.30 made a swamp with good feed and +water. Camped; distance about seventeen miles. The horizon appears to be +one dense cloud of fire and smoke on our way and on all sides of us; saw +no natives. + +Tuesday, May 27. + +Camp 6. Cold keen wind from south-south-east. The camels I am sorry to +say are very lame, caused by the burnt reeds running through the soles of +their feet whilst near the coast; boots of leather have been made for the +worst of them but they seem to suffer much, and it pulls the flesh off +them more than their work. Started at 8.40 a.m. on bearing of 95 1/2 +degrees; at 9.15 lagoon close by on the left; country all burnt. At 9.45 +struck large creek with abundance of water, boggy where struck; spelled, +looking for a crossing till 10.5. Went down the creek north-east or +east-north-east till 10.16; then on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees, till at +10.23 struck what I take to be Morning Inlet, about 150 yards broad with +reeds and grass, no water at crossing; 10.42 left Morning Inlet where we +watered horses. At 2.53 p.m. changed course to 32 1/2 degrees for a belt +of timber, thinking to camp; no water. At 3.12 p.m. changed course to 95 +1/2 degrees till three minutes to five, when changed course to 135 +degrees until 5.39, then on bearing of 75 degrees till 6.21; no water, +but a very little drop about half a mile back, to which place I returned +and found there was even less than I expected. This is a most deceitful +part of the country; every five minutes you are in expectation of coming +to water but it was our fate to meet none but this muddy little drop, +barely sufficient for our own use, and none for the animals. From about 3 +p.m. till we camped heavy belts of swampy box and large gums; many +patches of reeds and coarse grass; water recently dried up; and belts of +plain. Numerous birds seen--cockatoos, hawks, crows, galahs, etc. etc. +etc. + +Wednesday, May 28. + +Camp 7. The bullocks (two) with Palmer and Kirby on horseback and +Maitland on foot did not come up to camp last night, but immediately +after sunrise the two horsemen and bullocks arrived, but not Maitland, he +being on foot from having injured his horse so much as to render him +unfit to ride, as is his usual way with every horse he gets, taking no +care of him whatever. I told him when he injured the last that if he did +the same to this one he should walk; and good to my word I made him walk +yesterday. Rode a short distance at sunrise, having heard some native +companions calling out after daylight, and found within a quarter of a +mile of us, almost within view, two splendid lagoons. Immediately +returned to camp and moved it at once to the nearest one; it bears from +last night's camp nearly due south, a quarter of a mile or little over; +the other lagoon is distant about 300 yards south-east of this. Great +abundance of feed. As the camels are lame and in need of a spell and we +want to kill a bullock and Maitland not come up yet I have made up my +mind to stop here till all are put in travelling order. In the morning +the wind bitterly cold from south-east to south-south-east. Middleton has +been laid up for the last three days and lost the use of his legs +yesterday afternoon but hope he will soon be all right again. He is much +better today; I should get on indifferently without him. Although we met +with no water coming along last afternoon I have no doubt but that there +was plenty of it, as the natives were burning everywhere as we came +along, particularly close on our right. It is still a splendid country +for grass and timber. As soon as we moved to camp we had one of the +bullocks (Boxer) up and killed; he is very fair beef. The other is not so +good, but stands being kept in hobbles; whereas this one would not or he +would have been kept till last on account of his better condition. +Providentially Maitland made his way to camp late this afternoon. Had we +been obliged to go on again a stage without luckily hitting upon this +place I think he would have gone frantic as he appeared in a sad state of +mind on his arrival; I hope it will be a caution to him in future to see +to his horse better. + +Thursday, May 29. + +Camp 8. Wind as yesterday and cool. I am sorry to say I have three of the +party on the sicklist--all seized first with cold shivering then +excessive heat, ultimately a numbness and want of proper use of their +limbs, sickness, and want of appetite and headache. They are Middleton, +Hodgkinson, and Kirby. They are confined to bed; but I hope with a little +care will soon recover, as it is an awkward part of the world to be taken +ill in. Getting the meat jerked and putting the pack-bags, etc., to +rights. The other bullock as yet appears to stay contented; he came up +during the night and took a survey of his dead companion and quietly +returned to his feed. + +Friday, May 30. + +Camp 8. Wind as usual, south-east to south-south-east; keen and cold, the +day pretty warm. The invalids I think a little better, but far from well. +The sore-footed camels improve; but my impression is that their feet will +not thoroughly get well till they arrive in the settled districts where +they can have a spell for some time. Meat-drying, bag-mending, +horse-shoeing, with other little matters. If these lagoons are permanent +(and no doubt there are many more) this is a splendid pastoral country, +feed good enough for any stock and timber to suit almost any purpose. +There are here several fruit-bearing trees but unfortunately the stone +happens to be the largest portion of the fruit and at present none of +them are ripe. A vast quantity of large beans are here on a runner, the +same that Dr. Leichhardt used, when burnt, for coffee and rather seemed +to like. None of our party seem to care trying it, although we have now +nothing but meat and salt and from four to five pounds of flour to make +gruel in case of sickness. All have been till within the last few days in +excellent health and nowise short of appetite. From the time we are out +beyond what was anticipated I suppose the people of Adelaide have given +us up as lost. I hope however they will not think it necessary to send a +search party out after us. + +Saturday, May 31. + +Patients about the same. Middleton rather worse. Wind in the morning from +south-east and south-south-east, at midday changed to east, then north +and afterwards to north-north-west. Meat nearly dry. + +Sunday, June 1. + +Still in Camp 8. Patients about the same, very weak and feverish, but +must endeavour to make a move tomorrow. Wind from north, north-west to +west, and rather warm. Had a visit from a number of natives, they do not +appear so shy as usual; they do not circumcise but have one or two teeth +out in front of upper jaw. From what I could see the young men are not +allowed to talk, but merely making a hissing and twittering noise to make +themselves understood, and pointing and motioning with the hand whilst +the old men do the talking business. I could make but little out of them. +I made them a few presents with which they seemed much pleased; got a few +words of their language and with a promise to return tomorrow they took +their leave. They are not at all such a good sample as are at the lakes +north and east of Lake Hope. They say there is plenty of water ahead on +the course I intend to take, but from want of knowledge of their language +could glean nothing of the parties that came in search to the north +coast; but that they have seen whites was quite evident from their +knowledge of the use of the axe. They seemed much in dread of the camels, +the only animals that were near the camp at the time, and expressed by +motions a desire that they should be driven away. + +Monday, June 2. + +Camp 8. The heaviest dew last night I have experienced for many years, +accompanied by a dense fog till between 8 and 9 a.m. Wind from +west-north-west. Palmer attacked with same fever that the rest have. The +others very weak but I think a little better. Made a start this morning +at 9.20 a.m. on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees; at 10.14 lagoon on right; at +10.27 crossed creek with plenty of water from south-south-west; at 11.50 +lagoon on right--all forest land with a greater number of the paper-bark +tree than any other; at 11.15 much spinifex; at 11.20 creek close on left +with plenty of water; at 11.35 crossed creek, it goes off into many +lagoons southwards and eastwards; good grass and plenty of water, not +much spinifex, the country rather too thickly wooded to be open forest. +Halted at lagoons on the left at 1.20 coming from south of east and +flowing to north of west. Although this country is rather too thickly +wooded to be called open forest it is still an excellent pastoral +country, the grasses sweet and plenty of water, the lagoons being covered +with nymphans or waterlily, and the soil sandy. We passed many patches of +burnt ground, some burnt earlier than the rest, having green grass nine +to twelve inches high. Stopped short today on account of the patients who +are very weak, Kirby in particular; distance travelled twelve and a half +miles. In the afternoon wind from west-north-west. Saw nothing of the +natives this morning before starting. Several palms seen through the +forest, a few close by this camp of no great height; the feed in general +is very dry except in the neighbourhood of the creeks or lagoons. + +Tuesday, June 3. + +Camp 9. Wind south; considerable dew but nothing to the night before. +There is a good deal of spinifex here and the timber is nothing like so +strong or good as around yesterday's camp and for miles on all sides of +it. Three creeks appear to rise here and join and become one, all from +the southward of east to north of west. Started at 9.8 a.m., the horses +having strayed some distance back to the burnt feed. Bearing 95 1/2 +degrees, open forest with spinifex; at 10.30 crossed small creek (dry); +at 10.45 crossed small sandy creek (dry) water on the right; at 11.30 +watered horses and then crossed creek from west-south-west to +east-north-east, small creek from south joins close by; at 1.25 crossed +creek with water; at 2.12 crossed sandy creek from north-east to south +and another close by, then scrub and rather thick forest till 5.50, then +camped no water; distance about twenty-six and a half to twenty-seven +miles. One of the horses (Harry) after being ridden into camp appeared to +blow a good deal and from little to more till at last he got seriously +ill and died at 9 p.m. He must have been poisoned or bitten by a snake. + +Wednesday, June 4. + +Camp 10, or Harry's Camp, after our dead horse. Wind southerly. Started +at 7.18 a.m., still on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees; crossed sandy creek +(dry) from north-east to east-south-east; at 9.52 crossed same creek +still dry running to north of east; at 9.15 recrossed same; at 9.20 +recrossed; at 9.25 recrossed the creek not far off on the right; country +rather scrubby. Sent Hodgkinson to follow the creek round to ascertain if +water existed in it and if so to stop or overtake us. Went on till about +10.30 when Hodgkinson overtook us having found sufficient water for our +use. Returned at once to it about a mile back and camped. The old female +camel done up; will leave her saddle as it is much knocked about and +divide her load between the others and the horses; she may follow which I +think she will; distance on course to camp about eight and a half miles. +The patients improving, Kirby remains very weak and spiritless. This +morning wind cool from southward; during the day changed round to +east-south-east and in the evening to west-south-west and rather cloudy. +This is a wretched little creek, for some miles sandy, now in its bed are +layers of stone and clay; it frequently loses itself on the flat land. +The timber in the forest consists of two kinds of papery-leafed bark +trees, box, gum, and a very handsome tree, leafless but bears a flower, +besides various shrubs, etc., and spinifex. + +Thursday, June 5. + +Camp 11. Mild morning, wind from southward and cool, no dew. Started at +9.4 on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees. Creek close on right. At 9.37 crossed +creek. At 9.48 receives a tributary from east-south-east (no water). Very +scrubby for a few miles and then more open forest. At 12.38 came to a +large and broad creek or mass of creeks or river. Water not abundant on +account of its being sandy in its bed. As the camels have had to be tied +up for the last two nights, the country being so densely timbered, I stay +here and camp. Followed the river down about three-quarters of a mile +west-north-west, which appears to be its course. Here it is upwards of +300 yards broad, banks no great height. Distance on course ten and +three-quarter miles. Wind about 11 a.m. changed round to east and north +of east and warm; as we got to camp it blew gently from west-north-west. +Patients except Kirby mending gradually. I should imagine the river to be +the Flinders but if so it must turn after it passes this very much to the +west to enter the sea near where it is laid down on the charts. Its bed +pretty well the whole way across is wooded with the paper-like barked, +narrow-leafed tree, and a few other shrubs. It appears as if there was +not at all a heavy flood down it this season as few or none of the trees +are washed down. + +Friday, June 6. + +Camp 12. Dull morning, rather cloudy. Patients much improved. The female +camel left behind yesterday has not made her appearance yet, still I have +little doubt but that she will follow. Not a breath of wind at sunrise. +Started at 8.17 a.m. Still on general course bearing of 95 1/2 degrees +over open-timbered, well-grassed land. Afterwards at 10.11 came to and +crossed same river from north-north-east to south-south-west. It was not +far off all the morning to the right. Spelled seven minutes till 10.18. +At 10.36 recrossed river where it is stony and rocky with sand in its +bed, coming from south. At 11.3 struck river on right but did not cross. +Followed along its north-east bank till 11.15. Still close by at 11.27. +At 12.50 crossed small sandy creek from south. Spelled for six minutes +till 12.56. Then bearing along the creek till 1.11 p.m. on bearing of 325 +degrees three-quarters of a mile; distance on proper course 95 1/2 +degrees thirteen and a quarter miles. Just after camping I found that +what I take to be the River Binoe is about 120 yards east of us, flowing +about 322 degrees, with a lagoon on east bank, with yellow lilies. The +small creek we are camped on has plenty of water. The Binoe River has +none just here. All the creeks and the river have lots of cork-screw +palms in and near them. Good forest all day and abundance of grass. + +Saturday, June 7. + +Camp 13. But little dew last night. The old camel has not come on; +perhaps she will remain until she freshens up a little and then shape her +way south or east. No wind, beautiful morning. Hodgkinson shot a native +companion; have seen no game for some days. Started at 8.40 on bearing of +110 degrees. In four minutes crossed the Binoe. At 9.8 came to and +recrossed river or creek Binoe. At 9.45 crossed creek with rocky bed and +with water from east by south. Spelled five minutes till 9.50. Quartz +ridges. At twelve o'clock spurs running to south and west. At 1.40 from +top of hill dismal view seen ahead; nothing but bare burnt up ranges. +Struck the River Flinders or one of its largest branches at 2.18 p.m. +Crossed over and camped at a long sheet of water in its bed on +south-eastern side. Distance on course sixteen and three-quarter miles. +The journey today has been over thick scrubby forest which tore our +pack-bags a good deal. From 9 a.m. the ground was a good deal strewed +over with small ironstone pebbles, not bronzed as they usually are, till +9.45 then ridges and ranges of quartz and sandstone. Drainage south and +west. A high range on the left, some 6 to eight miles off, wooded to its +top. Immediately below it runs the Binoe I think. Course of the range is +about 100 degrees. This watercourse comes here from the north-north-east +or even north of that, and bears away to the south-south-west as far as +discernible. Wind during the day from east to south-east. As this is a +good place for killing I will kill our last bullock as he has become a +nuisance in driving the horses by rushing among them on the march and out +through them in front and on all sides, causing them to travel in an +unsteady manner and assisting to further tear the bags. All the patients +getting on well. Natives burning down this creek or river some little +distance and ahead and a little to the left of our course today, the +first we have seen for a few days. I omitted to mention a couple of days +ago falling in with a number of frameworks about six feet long by four +wide and three high, risen by four forks placed on the ground, then side +pieces, and the top covered with similar pieces closely all over +lengthways, and on top of that grass; then fires at head, feet and both +sides. I should say to sleep on during wet weather. Killed our bullock +but little fat on him, but he is not of a fat kind. + +Sunday, June 8. + +Camp 14. Wind from east and north of east in the morning. Cutting up and +drying the beef; the fat drying won't detain us. A great abundance of the +River McKenzie bean here on the sandy parts of the watercourse. Here the +watercourse is about 100 yards broad, in many places bergues of sand +separating it into different channels. Wild dogs abundant. Saw traces of +kangaroo, emu, and wallaby on our way here yesterday. Wind changed during +the afternoon to south-east and south-south-east. This sheet of water is +from 250 to 300 yards long and twenty yards broad. Kirby much better and +the others getting quite convalescent. + +Monday, June 9. + +In Camp 14. Drying the beef, shoeing, mending pack-bags, and various +other little things etc. No dew last night. Still morning. Most beautiful +weather. What little wind there is is from south by west but hardly +perceptible. I took Middleton with me to go out to reconnoitre and feel +our way for next stage through the hills ahead. Found that the +watercourse comes from north or a little west of north from between the +heavy-timbered ranges to north and west, and bald hills, or nearly so, to +north and east, and probably winds round nearer its source more to the +east. A number of thinly-wooded hills with small creeks running from them +to west and south appear to run round south for some distance, perhaps +ten to fifteen miles or more. Beyond the highest in the distance the +natives are busy burning, and this leads me to suppose they are on the +other or principal branch of the Flinders River; but I shall know more +about it in a few days. Abundance of water in the small creeks as far +east and south as I went today and some lagoons in the flats. The natives +commence their range of fires from 20 degrees west of south to 30 degrees +east of south, and I think I shall find that it will meet me on my +course. Wind in the afternoon from south by east, strong occasionally, +towards evening it died away. Beef now dry. We start from here tomorrow +if all is right and we have nothing more to detain us. The horses are +shod except one and that one, one of the best, no shoes being large +enough. I hope he will be able to get along. Our food now consists of +about 230 pounds of dry and salt beef, everything else in the shape of +food gone but I think we will have sufficient to carry us into the +settled districts of Queensland on the Burdekin River where we will be +able to get a fresh supply. We have a little salt and amongst the lot +about half a pound of soap. + +Wednesday, June 11. + +Camp 14. The bed of this branch here is one mass of concrete and +conglomerate, with small and large masses of ironstone, just as if it had +lately escaped from a furnace, with pebbles and pieces of quartz, some +sandstone, and sandstone in which is a mass of quartz. In many other +places it is quite a bed of sand its full width, and in other places +separated into different branches by bergues of alluvial deposit and +sand, with trees of different kinds and shrubs and reeds upon them. There +is a table-topped hill down on or near the north-west bank a few miles, +lightly wooded from north-north-east to south-west and apparently stony. +Not a breath of wind at daylight; afterwards in forenoon from +east-south-east. Started at 8.30 a.m. on bearing of 110 degrees, for +first few miles through open forest intersected with small creeks flowing +to west and south, some containing water with lagoons on the flat +occasionally, the drainage of the ranges to the eastward and north of our +course. The spurs coming down close on our left stony but well-grassed +and very lightly timbered, in fact nearly bald ridges. Over first stony +ridge at 10.10 and considerable-sized double creek at 10.17, dry at +crossing. Top of next high range at 11.15; five and a quarter miles. Very +extensive view. Spelled on top of hill waiting for the camels for +forty-five minutes till noon. Then started on bearing of 127 1/2 degrees +for south-west end of large range in the distance that would otherwise +come right across my original course. There is an immense large black +circular range from 127 1/2 degrees round by east to west-north-west, +with reaphooky faces and scrubby tops, and a number of detached conical +and coronet-topped hills. At 1 p.m. water in a rocky creek close to the +right. Watered the horses. Spelled ten minutes till 1.10. Crossed creek +at 1.15. Sandy, scrubby forest. Crossed another sandy creek at 1.57. +Crossed another sandy creek at 2.3. At 3.15 on top of rocky mulga hill +with granite and mass of quartz pebbles. Some difficulty in getting over +and down a rocky range (granite principally). Struck a small creek with +sufficient water for our use and good feed, and camped at 3.50 at +distance of ten and three-quarters to eleven miles on last bearing. +Distance travelled about sixteen miles. Course of the ranges close by, +the one that we last crossed and the one just close by before us, 40 +degrees west of south with the drainage in same direction. + +Thursday, June 12. + +Camp 15. Dewless night, wind at daylight east-north-east. Started at 8.6 +a.m. on bearing of 127 1/2 degrees, top of first mulga range after +passing over very rough ranges; at 9.20 struck creek north-east of the +large range I am making for, watered horses, etc. After scrambling and +creeping over rocks and precipices arrived at south-west end of large +hill; at 10.15 at about three miles spelled for thirty-four minutes till +10.39. From top of hill on which there is a little spinifex you command +an extensive view; the whole country is black and dismal in appearance in +every direction; a fine large range appears in the distance from 100 to +150 degrees, with well-defined gaps, etc., drainage all to the southward +and westward. Now rounded this hill and went on a bearing of 100 degrees; +just after beginning to descend traced a party of horses going northward +under eastern side of large range, apparently when the ground was wet. +Descended much more easily than we ascended; we got into a fine valley +with good timber and plenty of grass, and at 11.50 about three miles came +to a running creek from northward. Traces of a hurricane along the creek, +tops of all the trees on the ground or suspended in the air by bits of +bark; the timber on each bank does not appear here at least to have been +touched. Obliged to stop here as Maitland has not overtaken us; he stayed +behind at the camp for some purpose or other and did not afterwards come +up; I am afraid he has missed the tracks as it is stony and rocky. This +large hill is composed of sandstone of various degrees of fineness, +quartz, pebbles, etc., principally; distance travelled six miles direct. +Here the creek or river is timbered across with the narrow-leafed +papery-barked tree; some short distance up the stream from here this +description of timber nearly gives place to gums. I have no doubt but +that some day or other this place will be taken up as a station. Fish are +in the deep holes, some that I saw about a couple of pounds weight. I +also saw some young guardfish from nine to twelve inches long and many +smaller. Lots of euro and kangaroo but very shy. Maitland made his +appearance shortly after camping. + +Friday, June 13. + +Camp 16. Dewless night, wind from east by north. I take this to be the +main branch of the Flinders; the hills on its right proper banks are very +bold and must be over 3000 feet high. If they are not before named I have +called them Gregory's Ranges after Augustus Gregory, Esquire, now +Surveyor-General of Queensland. The point I changed my course at +yesterday I have called Mount Wildash after F. Wildash, Esquire, of +Queensland. Immediately east of Mount Wildash close by is another bluff +equally high which I have called Hawker's Bluff after the Honourable G.C. +Hawker. Started at 7.58 a.m. on bearing of 100 degrees for the southern +end of dark range in the distance; at 8.30 south of conspicuous sandstone +rocky peak which I have called Morphett's Peak after John Morphett, +Esquire, of Adelaide; dip of about 35 degrees in the sandstone to about +north-east or a little more east. Kept the above course three miles over +good travelling country; spelled a few minutes then up and down and over +very rocky ranges, in many places precipitous and most intricate +travelling from 9 a.m. till 11.30; three and a half miles farther, then +table-land till 1.50, the drainage is to the east, no doubt to go south +after it has cleared the rocky ranges; spelled, watering the camels from +2.25 to 2.45 p.m., up to this eight and three-quarter miles further. +Commenced ascending another mass of similar rocky ranges; stopped at 3.40 +two and a quarter miles further to look out a track to endeavour to get +out of this awful place. Started again at 4.55 p.m. after spelling one +and a quarter hours, could not get the animals over. Went back till 5.22 +one mile on our track, or to sixteen and a half miles on bearing 100 +degrees, to try another place, southerly and westerly along and over very +rocky ranges till 6.15, about two miles on average bearing of 215 to 220 +degrees. Came to a small sandy creek, then another, where by digging we +will be able to give the animals some water, there is plenty of feed; it +has been a very distressing day for the poor brutes; distance sixteen and +a half miles on course of 100 degrees, and two miles on 220 degrees; gave +each of the animals from two to five buckets. Although when first seen +the little water that was visible did not exceed a quart with a few small +dead fish about 1 1/2 inches long, but after digging and clearing away +the sand we got sufficient for tonight and tomorrow morning. It has been +close and oppressive which has added to the distress of the horses and +camels. One of the latter, an old Indian, could hardly be persuaded to +come along. Very light rain commenced about dark or a little after, but I +doubt whether it will come to anything; however it will damp the grass +for the poor animals and make it more palatable. + +Saturday, June 14. + +Camp 17. Only rained sufficient to damp the grass. Still cloudy; not a +breath of wind at daylight. Craggy hills to commence the journey with +this morning. This sandy watercourse flows to west and south, a mere +narrow channel, but it was of much service to us; we would have fared +badly for the poor animals had we not fallen in with it, insignificant as +it appears. Our pack-bags got sadly torn yesterday with broken timber and +rocks, all of which latter is sandstone. We passed much splendid +splitting timber on our way yesterday, stringy-bark and other trees I +don't know the names of, but useful timber. Crossed the creek at 8.38 +a.m. on bearing of south by east till 8.55 three-quarters mile; spelled +looking out on top of hill sixteen minutes, then on east course chiefly; +at 11.30 six miles south one mile from the hill I was making for +yesterday. Still on easterly course up and over a rugged and scrubby +range till 2 p.m. about three and three-quarter miles. Lost an hour in +searching for one of the horses that bolted and kicked off all his load +prior to this. Boco (horse) obliged to be left behind. Then about +north-north-east descended a range very steep and rough, then spinifex +precipices, sharp ledges of rocks and every roughness one could imagine +for about two miles or thereabouts, chiefly in the creek, then creek bore +about east by north to east-north-east which I followed till after dark +about six and a half miles, altogether about nineteen miles. Obliged to +leave another horse (Governor) in the creek, fairly knocked up. He has +been very soft although the highest priced horse of the lot, one bought +of Mr. Boord for 50 pounds. There is another will have to be left if the +country does not immediately change for the better; fortunately we found +water in several places in the bed of the creek or the horses would have +fared badly--a little grass of a very coarse nature just in the sides of +the creek, the rest all spinifex and scrub, the latter the camels +greedily devour; the rough country has told much on the feet of the +latter, another of which, the old Indian, I am afraid will have to be +left behind. First pines seen today since crossing Lake Torrens. + +Sunday, June 15. + +Camp 18. Very cloudy, every appearance of rain. Started at 9.10 along the +bed of the creek still about east by north; at 10.35 three miles the +creek receives a considerable tributary from the south-east, in fact it +is the main channel and the one we are in the tributary, then it flowed +north 15 degrees west to north or nearly so till 11.45 when the horses +knocked up, must camp and give them the rest of the day and probably +tomorrow; on this latter course about two miles; distance travelled +between five and six miles. After getting to camp ascended the hills on +the right or eastern side of the river and never beheld such a fearfully +grand country in my life, nothing but towers and pinnacles of sandstone +conglomerate, fit for nothing but wallaby and euro; and if it is for a +thousand years from this time it can be used by no other animals but them +and the natives as it is at present. The apparent course of this river +from the greatest height I could get to is about 305 degrees, going in +the first place after passing the camp a little more north for three or +four miles--it is a terrible country. Should the river, on a closer +examination tomorrow, prove to go as I imagine it does, I have nothing +for it but to retrace my steps and go up the main branch and try and +cross the range at top. Still very cloudy and looks as if it would rain +every minute. I wish I had a little more food, if I had I would give the +animals a week here but I have barely sufficient for six days. Oaks have +been seen today in the bed of the river since the junction of the two +channels. The river runs below the junction of the two branches for some +distance, but here it is dry its full width which is about 150 to 200 +yards and is very picturesque, with beautiful drooping gums, papery-bark +trees, and various others, and the bold cliffs towering one above the +other with awful grandeur. No one can conceive how much effect the travel +of the last few days and the shortness of nourishing food has had upon +our animals which ten days ago were fit for anything--always excepting +this description of awful country. Wind from all points of the compass. + +Monday, June 16. + +Camp 19. In the bed of the River Gilbert (I take it to be) no room for +camp anywhere else. The country is literally teeming with euro and +wallaby, but as the natives are about in the rocks and precipices hunting +we have no chance of shooting any. Very cloudy yet; rained a little +during the night but nothing of any consequence; we cannot now be more +than from sixty to seventy miles from the River Burdekin but from this +spot utterly impracticable. Had to come down this length for anything +like feed; traces of numbers of natives and their fires still burning. +Went up the rocks and precipices on the eastern side of the river, and +found that a high range extends eastwards, running north-west and +south-east, completely blocking us in from here. Rode down the river to +see if there is any likelihood of our getting out east by a tributary +that it receives about one and a half miles down but found not. Rained a +little in the forenoon and slight showers during the afternoon. Found +that the old Indian camel (Narro) was unable to get up and go about to +feed so, considering that the horses and the two remaining camels (Arabs) +wanted a spell for a few days, I resolved upon killing the old camel and +using him whilst here to save our dried beef, reluctantly as he is +everything but a favourite morsel, but when we are compelled it is no use +hesitating so had him shot; and firstly had his liver stewed or steamed, +which I must say was the most extraordinary morsel I ever attempted to +eat; it was as dry and juiceless and of as little flavour as if it had +never formed a component part of any living animal; scarcely any of the +party could touch it. + +Tuesday, June 17. + +In Camp 19, sandy bed of river. Rained pretty heavily during the night in +showers. Cut up the meat of the camel to dry but the weather is very +unfavourable; the rest of him eats much better than the liver; the heart +is quite as good as a bullock's and the meat, considering the condition +of the animal, not at all as tough as one would expect; the party after +starving for two or three meals have quietly taken to him now and rather +like the meat. + +Wednesday, June 18. + +Still in Camp 19--not the most enviable place in the world. Heavy dew +last night. I am afraid the meat we are attempting to dry will be a +failure on account of the moist state of the weather. I was sadly grieved +on return of the party that went to see after the horses to learn that +one of our very best horses (Rowdy) was lying dead a short distance down +the river, still warm; he must have been poisoned or bitten by a snake; +at present we will feel his loss much as he was so strong and always kept +fat. Although the meat will not be quite dry I will see and make a start +out of this in the morning in case it may be some poisonous herb that may +happen to be in the bed of the river. I will return up the river to where +the main branch joined the tributary we came down, and try by following +it for some distance to get some place where I can ascend the ranges to +the east, but I expect it to be a work of great difficulty; however that +I will think nothing of if I only succeed and get the animals all over +safe. The weather seems taking up now. + +Thursday, June 19. + +Camp 19. Beautiful morning, not a breath of wind. Try what success we +will have up the main branch of this river in finding a passage over the +range to eastward. Have got rid of everything we can possibly spare and +that will now be of little use to us and had them buried on the +south-west side of creek, under the creek side of large broken-off +standing dead tree, and up the bank about forty yards from a large +gumtree, with a large square patch of bark taken off and small arrow at 4 +o'clock in the direction should they be sought for, which I much doubt. +The horses don't look at all the thing I am sorry to see, knowing that +they have some heavy work immediately before them; even before attempting +to ascend the ranges we have to travel in the bed of the river where the +sand is excessively heavy and trying on the poor animals in their present +leg-weary state and want of condition. I never saw animals fall off so +suddenly in my life. Followed our tracks back to the junction of the two +branches about two and a half miles, then took the left-hand or +south-east branch, found it improve much more than I had anticipated; the +rocky hills recede occasionally and leave a nice bank of grass, but most +of it recently burnt by the natives; on our left the rock appeared now to +be chiefly slate, while on the right it still remained sandstone and +quartz; the bed is broad and generally very open and sandy, upon which we +have principally to travel; followed it for about eight miles in about an +east-south-east course. From here (Camp 20) for some distance (seen from +a hill here) the river appears to receive from the east by south +generally plenty of water at intervals and generally at those places +running; no doubt all the way it runs either over or under the land. +Where we are now encamped the river is upwards of 150 yards broad. We +found on turning out the camel meat to air that it was quite putrid and +had consequently to throw the whole of it away; at this time it is a very +great loss to us, the loss of upwards of seventy pounds of food. Even +with the spell our horses have had they come along very indifferently, +and I am almost afraid some more of them will have to be left behind as I +have not sufficient food to wait spelling for them till they get flesh; +there does not appear to be the same nourishment in the grass that there +is almost anywhere else. Saw the smoke of natives a few miles ahead of +us; I suppose we will see something of them tomorrow. Shot a new pigeon, +will try to preserve the skin. Some figs were got by some of the party +this morning before starting; I ate one of them apparently ripe, it was +very insipid, the principal part of them were full of small flies. +Distance travelled by bed of river not direct about ten and a half miles. + +Friday, June 20. + +Camp 20. Heavy dew last night; sky completely overcast with very heavy +rainy-looking clouds. We have now on hand dried meat sufficient for about +five and a half days, at the rate of one pound three ounces per day +without salt or anything else, which is not very heavy diet. I never saw +a country where less game was to be obtained; what euro and wallaby are +here are so very wild there is no getting near them. Just here the hills +are not so high or so rough as some distance further down; I hope they +may continue so, that the animals won't be distressed more than possible. +Not a breath of wind this morning. Our course as seen from a hill close +by last night will be about east-south-east for some distance this +morning. Started at 8.10 a.m.; at three and a quarter miles came to a +barrier right across from range to range, and after considerable +detention succeeded in finding a road on our left round the range that +the barriers form from; at four miles came to where one branch (the +largest) comes from the south with plenty of water in its bed in the +stone and rocks; the other branch is considerably to the east so will try +it, although it does not at all look a watery branch but is much more in +the direction I want to go. About the same course, over much more open +country, hilly and thinly clad with small ironbark timber, and is chiefly +of slate formation and well-grassed, but no water in its bed as far as we +went, say about five and a half miles further where we fortunately got +sufficient at the junction of a small side creek with the main +watercourse to suit our immediate wants. It is perfectly surprising to +see such a broad channel with such ranges close by and no water. One +other of our best horses obliged to be left behind today; he has been +ailing for some short time and all at once refused to proceed. A few +kangaroo seen today. I trust we will fall in with plenty of water +tomorrow, our horses never do so well as when they can go to water +themselves instead of watering out of buckets. For some distance the +creek bears to north of east; in fact the next bend, about a mile long, +is from north or so, when it appears to turn to south and east. We +managed occasionally during today to get upon the slopes from the hills +on either side of the creek, which was much better travelling than in the +soft sandy bed of the creek, which I have called Stuart's Creek after Mr. +McDouall Stuart, the indefatigable explorer of South Australia. This part +would make a good sound sheep country if water at all times was +obtainable. A number of oaks all along this branch, and more just here on +our left side of the creek where the water is, and we are encamped. + +Saturday, June 21. + +Camp 21. The clouds of yesterday passed over with only a few drops of +rain just after starting. Today cloudy again; wind from east by north; +started at 7.53 a.m. As the horses came in to water, just before +starting, we found that the horse Jamie had come up during the night but +looks hardly able to drag his legs after him. It is a great pity as he is +a splendid hackney and is a great loss at present. The narrow-leafed +papery-barked tree grows on the sides of the creek to a great size and +height, completely overtopping the gums, oaks, etc. There is very little +feed in this part of the country that the camels are fond of. At about +four miles, creek running, with plenty of feed; for three and a half +miles further the creek comes from north-east by north, then a little +more east. General course today about north-east and distance travelled +about sixteen miles, when we fortunately got sufficient water in a +barrier in the creek, evidently from recent rain, the bed of the creek +otherwise perfectly dry. Three more horses knocked up and obliged to be +left behind, namely Bawley, Fidget, and Camel (mare) although good +travelling. Ascended hill at camp and found that the first leading main +range bears east and about 40 degrees north, which I intend making for. + +Sunday, June 22. + +Camp 22. Wind from east by north and cloudy; obliged to lighten further +our load by leaving the tents and spare pack-saddles and bags here on +north side of creek; started at 8.20 a.m. The barrier here is composed of +a yellow close-grained stone impregnated with small specks of quartz, and +the hills on either side, pieces of granite of the same kind are also +strewed in the bed, brought down by the currents. A few oak-trees +immediately above this camp. Passed over hilly well-grassed ironbark +granite country on a bearing of about 90 degrees (but first of all a +little to the north of that, and afterwards as much to the south, which +equalised the bearing) for the point of a range which I mean to ascend. +Got to it at eleven and a half miles; then quarter of a mile along top of +range, the ascent of which we found excessively difficult, and had two of +our best horses nearly killed by falling backwards down the hill, and +only being brought up from going to the bottom and getting smashed by +some trees and rocks; the camels especially we had to unpack twice (two +ascents) and I once thought we were not to get them up they are so weak, +especially the smallest one--a splendid little animal. Then we got a +comparatively easy descent and made for north end of a heavy range close +by on a bearing of 85 degrees. At three-quarters of a mile got to the end +of it, over rough country intercepted with innumerable creeks, hills, +rock, and timber; then bore east-south-east for distant bluff of range +along well-grassed but very hilly sound country for two miles. Could +hardly get the small camel along, and no appearance of water, and it +within an hour of sunset. Went down the spur of a small range we were on +and providentially at the bottom found in a little blind creek sufficient +excellent water for ourselves and all the animals. I'm sure I don't know +what the poor animals would have done had we not found them water; and to +our uneasiness two of the men, Maitland and Kirby, were seized with +sickness on the road and useless to us. I found after getting over the +large range that I could have got round it had I kept south, and by +travelling a circuitous route, but from the western side of the range the +way I came was the only way visible that was passable, and it was nearly +as impassable as it was possible for it to be. From the top of it you +command a very extensive view in all directions. To the south in the +distance is a fine long leading range, apparently running from +west-north-west to east-south-east; to the north and west high black +ranges; to the east heavy dark ranges but don't appear united. Drainage +can't make out. + +Monday, June 23. + +Camp 23. Heavy dew, cloudy morning. Will be obliged to stay here to +recruit the animals where there is plenty of excellent feed and +sufficient water, and am sorry to say kill a horse and endeavour to dry +or jerk him, in the meantime I hope the weather may prove favourable for +that purpose. I did hope not to be driven to killing the horses; had I +for a moment thought so when at the Gulf I would have shaped my course +south for Adelaide, but I never dreamt of such a rough country as I found +in this direction, Walker and Landsborough will have found it so +likewise. Ascended one of the ridges close by but could not tell which +way the principal drainage went, it is open forest land from north of +east by south round to north of west for a great extent of miles, with +heavy ranges beyond, and a couple of breaks apparently in the range at +110 and 145 degrees, which to take I have not yet made up my mind, and +the horses are so weak that I don't wish to take more out of them than +can possibly be avoided, and reconnoitring at present would only cause +probably another horse or two to be left, which is everything but +advisable. Wind was fresh during the night. Killed one of the horses had +of Mr. Scott, being most suitable for our purpose, and an excellent +packhorse he was, always having carried during our travels one of the +heaviest packs, and was one of the unfortunate animals that fell down the +range yesterday. It is a little cloudy but I hope it will blow off and +give us favourable weather for drying his flesh; ate his heart, liver, +and kidneys, and found them excellent made into a sort of hash with a +little remnant of pepper we had. + +Tuesday, June 24. + +Camp 23. A little dew early part of the night, but little the remainder. +Keen cold wind from all quarters, chiefly from north-east to south-east +and clear sky; if it continues will suit our meat-drying well, which will +be of vast advantage to us; to lose the flesh of another animal as we did +the camel's would indeed be a serious loss. Our two patients Maitland and +Kirby deadly sick; whatever can be wrong with them I can't imagine; the +latter has been ailing off and on for some time and has got dispirited in +the rough country. Busy this morning cutting up the flesh of the horse +and tying it on the lines to dry; had he been in good condition it would +take a good judge to distinguish his flesh from beef; it makes most +excellent hash and soup. One of our horses has mysteriously got lame in +his stifle since coming here, I hope not permanently. + +Wednesday, June 25. + +Camp 23. Wind the same as yesterday and fluctuating--very heavy dew last +night and very cold. The last two days have been warm and suit our +purpose for meat-drying admirably. The two invalids are still very +unwell, but trust they will be better by the time the meat is thoroughly +dry and cause us no unnecessary detention till we get into the stations +on the river Burdekin, where they can have a change of food. The horses +appear to benefit on this spell and feed. + +Thursday, June 26. + +Still in Camp 23. Heavy dew, foggy morning till about 10 a.m. when the +meat was hung out to dry. Wind from all quarters but turned out rather a +nice warm day, and will be about sufficient to dry our meat to enable us +to start in the morning. Shoeing some of the horses that cast their shoes +over the rough country, and preparing for a start; the lame horse is a +little better; the invalids I cannot say are much improved. There is a +great scope of good pastoral land here but rather hilly. I have made up +my mind to try what appears to be the easiest and, from here, the +straightest course on a bearing of 110 degrees. The drainage appears to +go from here firstly to the south-east, receiving all the drainage of the +large ranges apparently from 110 degrees round to south, when it appears +to turn suddenly round some prominent ranges after receiving drainage +from the westward of this, and uniting in one large watercourse and +flowing behind a large leading range to south and east. Probably the head +of the River Clarke takes its rise here. + +Friday, June 27. + +Wind as usual for the last few mornings--northerly; heavy dew but a +beautiful morning. The natives were busy grass-burning south-south-east +of this in the valley last afternoon. It was observed too late or I would +have gone down to them and might have got some information from them as +regards the courses of the different creeks, etc. etc., and probably the +whereabouts of the nearest station on the Burdekin or one of its +tributaries, so that we might be enabled to get a supply of food by the +time this is exhausted. The horse turned out for us about seventy pounds +of nearly dry meat which I trust will last us till we get to where there +is beef or mutton. Started at 8.30 a.m., first on bearing of 119 degrees +for a saddle in a low ridge between this and the large range for two and +a half miles, then drainage to this point southerly; then bearing of 110 +degrees for five and a half to six miles farther, drainage for two-thirds +of this distance to the northward; at the end of the distance arrived at +a nice brook running to southward close under the range. Got to a peak in +the pass at two miles farther on last bearing (110 degrees) then bearing +of 101 degrees, firstly over rather rough granite country, latterly over +good pastoral, and latterly to a reedy swamp with small water-creeks +coming in from right and left. Followed on the south-eastern side of the +swamp for some little distance and camped at two and a half miles +further. The whole country today is I may say composed of granite, and +sound country well-grassed and watered. Distance travelled about ten and +three-quarters to eleven miles. After getting to camp went and ascended +one of the highest hills near to get a view of the country ahead; had a +very extensive view from it, apparently comparatively level country from +62 1/2 to 103 1/2 degrees for some distance, with a sudden dip at about +twelve to eighteen miles distant, heavy ranges in the distance beyond, +and as seen from this hill very rugged and mountainous country from 62 +1/2 degrees by north round considerably to east of south. On a bearing of +about 140 degrees under the range I am now on there appears to be a +considerable tract of openly timbered and level country, but which way +the drainage goes is difficult to determine from top of hill. The swamp +and creek we are encamped on and after passing this appears to flow about +north, or a little to west of that, but from the top of the hill could +see no break in the main ranges to allow of its passing through to either +northward or westward. + +Saturday, June 28. + +Camp 24. Course 90 degrees, heavy dew, beautiful morning. The water +although running strong here is of a milky appearance. Started at 8.10 +a.m. over granite ridge and crossed swamp and water-creek to north. At +two and a quarter miles boulders of lava on the eastern side; at two and +three-quarter miles crossed large creek with plenty of water, which I +have called Frank's Creek after F. Marchant, Esquire, of Arkaba north of +Adelaide. It comes from southward. At four and a half miles crossed small +running rivulet from south; at five miles crossed a larger one from same +direction; at six and three-quarter miles crossed a running creek in a +swamp from south also; at seven and three-quarter miles crossed a +splendid creek with oaks, etc., quantity of swampy ground on either side +flowing same as last, which I have called the George after George +Marchant, Esquire, of Wilpena north of Adelaide. At ten and a quarter +miles crossed rivulet running to south; at ten and three-quarter miles +examined boggy swamp with plenty of water, drainage to south. At eleven +miles on top of small rocky range. Most extensive view ahead of +level-looking country. At twelve and a half miles boggy swamp, went round +the south end of it, its drainage is northward; at fifteen miles crossed +a good-sized creek with sandy bed, some oaks, the water merely trickling +through the sand but sufficient for all our wants; good timber. Camped +here. Two of the horses nearly knocked up. Creek flows east on passing +this. + +Sunday, June 29. + +Camp 25. Maitland very unwell, Kirby only so-so. There is also water in a +small creek close by to south which joins this creek close by; ranges +visible within a few miles to south of south-west; wind from southward +chiefly but variable; I have called the creek we encamped on last night +Burt's Creek after G. Burt, Esquire, of Adelaide. Started at 8.18 a.m. on +course of 90 degrees; at half a mile crossed large rocky creek from the +south with boulders of lava in its bed; there was lava also at starting; +a continuation of rough lava country for three miles; bad travelling. At +three and three-quarter miles crossed strong running river or creek, +granite bed; fish; with oaks, current to northward. At six miles crossed +small dry sandy creek to east-north-east; top of granite ridge at six and +one third of a mile: spelled nineteen minutes for a view; bearing of 84 +1/2 degrees for a distant knoll in what appears a leading range, and a +possibility of getting easily over it. At one mile crossed a small dry +creek to east-north-east; at two miles crossed dry sandy creek to +east-north-east; at two and three-quarter miles crossed oak creek (dry) +to east-north-east; at five and two-third miles crossed large oak creek +(dry) to east by north; at one and three-quarter miles further came to +lagoon, not very large but suits our purpose for a camp as one of the +horses can't be persuaded to come on. I expect I will have to kill him to +live upon for a few days whilst the other horses spell; some of them are +very weak but the feed is too dry to kill him here; distance travelled +about thirteen and three-quarter miles. Saw three emus today and a few +turkeys; kangaroos were also seen for the last two days; the strong +running river that we crossed at three and three-quarter miles from camp +this morning I have called the McKay after G. McKay, Esquire, of Mellia, +William's River, New South Wales. The latter part of today the feed has +been very dry but generally speaking it is an excellent country for any +kind of stock; the only impediment to sheep is the very abrupt banks of +the creeks for drays for the cartage of wool, but that would be got over +with well searching; saw a native but he made off at full speed when he +observed us. + +Monday, June 30. + +Camp 26. A good deal of box and apple-tree about here; our chief timber +of late has been ironbark and other very useful trees, with gums always +about the creeks and swamps. Saw yesterday on the way a few of that +ornamental fruit-tree of Cooper's Creek, which I have not seen for some +time, but it was of small growth; the soil I suppose not being suitable. +Will go on for some distance on same bearing as yesterday, to see if I +meet better and more green feed accompanied with water to spell the +horses. Although I am quite satisfied that I am close upon the Burdekin +still I may not be close upon any of the stations. Little dew last night, +wind light, and latterly a little inclined to be cloudy; sun rose 58 +degrees east of north. Started at 8.3 a.m. At three-quarters of a mile +crossed a creek from the east-south-east, deep and dry; rather thickly +timbered country and not so rich. Gradual ascent to top of ridge; +division of waters about three-quarters of a mile west of the mound or +peak I was steering for at four miles. Abreast of peak at four and +three-quarter miles; went to top of it; it was very steep and composed of +very rough sandstone, granite, and decaying slaty stones. Had a pretty +extensive view from it; but my view north, of 62 1/2 degrees, was +intercepted by rough ranges. The drainage from this tier of ranges, +eastern side, appears in the first instance to go to east-south-east or +even south of that; and afterwards when all the watercourses unite in the +flat some distance off to go to north and east. Started from this peak on +bearing of 62 1/2 degrees for a break I observed in the distant range; at +one mile crossed an oak creek (dry) to east-south-east; at three and a +half miles crossed another oak creek (dry) lots of kangaroo about, and no +doubt there is water although we did not see it in our course; at four +and a quarter miles came to and crossed a swamp and creek with water in +one hole that will be sufficient for us and camp. Maitland so ill he can +hardly hang on the horse's back and the horse Jack knocked up; killed him +during the afternoon; although a bag of bones he will make soup for a few +days and give Maitland a chance of recruiting, and will be a means of +refreshing the horses and camels. Journey today about nine miles, the +latter part very ridgy and rather rough although well-grassed; but +indifferent travelling on account of the watercourses down the slopes +being rather deep and steep on both sides. Kirby still keeps about the +same thing; he is a mere bag of bones compared to what he used to be. +Palmer has been complaining for some time and gets little better or +worse; a violent headache generally seizing him about noon every day. +Hodgkinson is also generally complaining. Wind afternoon from north. + +Tuesday, July 1. + +Camp 27, or Jack's Swamp after our unfortunate horse; poor old fellow, +many a score miles he carried me till some time ago he got a little lame +and has never done so well since. No dew last night. Bell is, as he has +always been, a day complaining and a day well; Davis something similar; +Middleton has now got quite well and the rest of us are all pretty right +but would be all the better of a change of food for the better; none of +us appear very energetic on horse-food; unfortunately maggots got into it +and did not improve it either in appearance or quality, but we are not +over nice now. Plenty of splendid timber in this part of the country. +Wind rather strong from north and continues steady in that quarter. +Trying today to jerk a portion of the horse to cause what we have got to +spin out. A good many fleecy clouds flying about early part of afternoon +and the wind has changed a little to the west of north. In our present +state we don't want to see any rain till we get into the stations, as now +we are tentless and of course have nothing to cover the sick in case of +wet. Late in the afternoon wind considerably to the west, at sunset quite +a calm, very cloudy and every appearance of rain, trust that it will blow +off. A great number of large-sized kangaroos here but rather shy. +Although there is abundance of grass of different kinds here the camels +eat but little of it and do very badly; about the lakes north-east of +Lake Torrens is the place for them; they eat nearly everything in the +shape of grass and shrubs that grow there, but here it is quite +different; but few acacias here of which they are very fond. + +Wednesday, July 2. + +Camp, Jack's Swamp. No rain last night and but little dew; the clouds +have all dispersed. Wind from north varying to east and west of that +point and a beautiful hot day. The horses appearing to do well. Maitland +improving; Kirby about the same, also Palmer. + +Thursday, July 3. + +Camp, Jack's Swamp. Little dew again last night, wind northerly and +easterly throughout the day, sun rather warm but not disagreeably so. The +hills hereabouts are composed of substrata of decomposing sandstone with +roots growing or dead in the fissures, the top rugged at and near the +crest, with a description of stone like decaying burnt brick, broken into +fragments although apparently united; very precipitous and often +overhanging near the tops of the ranges, with table-tops, generally +scrubby, still with good timber even on top and where it is more open, +fair grass in places and spinifex in others, with heavy deep ravines down +the slopes on all sides and well-grassed and timbered in the valleys. +From the top of range near our camp one has an extensive view; southward +is a large valley, the receiver of all the drainage of the hills east and +west of it; south the range is low and over it can be discerned several +conical wooded hills of greater and lesser sizes; beyond them in the +distance can be seen two considerable ranges from north-north-east to +south-south-west; at the latter point they suddenly terminate in nearly +precipitous bluffs, showing that there must be a stream of some +importance skirting that end of them, or some extensive valley; an easy +way of arriving at them would be south from this camp and over the low +dividing ridge; the waters or creeks in this valley, after uniting into +one or more large courses, flow to north and east till they pass east of +this a few miles off; further view is intercepted by the ranges north and +east of that. Maitland appears much better today and Kirby I think is +improving a little; Palmer is not quite so well. I hope he will soon get +over his illness; he is a very useful man; neither shoeing horses nor +almost anything comes wrong to him; indeed he has shod all the horses I +may say since he joined the party, and has been a very useful fellow. + +Friday, July 4. + +Camp 27, Jack's Swamp. Very cold during the night. Every appearance of a +nice day. What little wind there is is from north. We start from this +with 46 pounds of dried horse flesh which I hope will be sufficient to +carry us to stations on the Burdekin. The invalids and animals have +improved during their stay here, and we start this morning on about our +last bearing generally, although we cannot go direct from the hilliness +of the country. Bearing 62 1/2 degrees. All round this quarter quartz of +colours is strewed over the face of the country in addition to the +decomposing stones. Started at 8.6 a.m. firstly up the swamp side +northerly a short distance, then easterly over a saddle in the range for +the eastern slopes towards the main drainage to the northwards. At half a +mile on top of the saddle in the range with drainage to the east. Then +had to keep a little northerly of our course to avoid a rugged range on +the right. At about eleven miles direct struck the main drainage creek +(Ross's Creek after W. Ross, Esquire, Mulma, Murray, New South Wales) but +the actual distance travelled was considerably over that. Then followed +the creek on a bearing of about 20 degrees off and on. At one and a +quarter miles it receives a considerable tributary from west-south-west +(Cole's Creek after S. Cole, Esquire, Commissioner of Crown Lands, +Euston, New South Wales). A large mass of hard dark-coloured, +slaty-coloured rock in the centre of the two creeks with a passage on +each side. At four miles it receives a very deep but narrow creek from +the west (Beveridge's Creek after Peter Beveridge, Esquire, Swan Hill, +Victoria). Obliged to get into the main creek to pass it. Plenty of water +and feed. Camped. A splendid creeper (scarlet) is here upon a number of +trees, climbing to their very top. The fruit is very showy, oblong and +quite the size of an orange but tastes exceedingly nauseous, full of +pulpy seeds, birds and opossums eat them. After getting to camp went to +top of a high range at three-quarter mile distant east-south-east. From +it I had an extensive view. At 40 degrees easy to pass through range. +From 82 to 90 degrees very mountainous. 5 degrees a very extensive valley +apparently inclining westwards. Blacks burning at 10 degrees in the +distance. North is a large irregular peak range; in the distance another +a little east of it. + +Saturday, July 5. + +Camp 28. Dewless night as was also the night before and several others +previous. Very hot yesterday. Last night during the whole night the sky +was completely overcast and close, this morning the same. The main creek +here is well lined with gums and well-grown oaks, the bank fringed with +reeds; low down is about fifty yards wide at the bottom level and twice +that width at top and steep but grassed all down the slopes. The forest +over which we travelled yesterday was very much cut up with sudden and +deep watercourses, making the travelling more difficult, and in many +places was stony (brown stone). Started at 8.23 a.m., the horses having +ranged rather far. Crossed the creek and on bearing of 22 degrees along +it pretty good travelling through open timber, till at about two and +three-quarter miles the creek came too close under a range to allow us to +follow anywhere near its banks. Ascended the range and at three miles the +creek on the left changed course to from 40 to 45 degrees; sometimes to +the north of that, at other times to the south of it. At a short distance +over the flat, after descending the range which was of no great +elevation, came on the creek again and followed it on the above bearing. +As we struck the creek the footprints of two horses in the bed of the +creek, and shortly after more and more, which at first led us to suppose +that the country was stocked thus far up; but after following along in +the bed we found the traces to be all about the same age and that some +time back. At length on right side of creek on the bank, at the distance +on our last course of three and a quarter miles, we saw the remains of an +old camp, ridge pole, and uprights, with the letter K cut on a couple of +gumtrees, which at once led us to believe it was some party or other +marking the boundaries of their runs. Got up out of the creek at this +place and went on bearing of about 20 to 25 degrees. Immediately after +starting on this bearing we passed over rather open ground with spinifex +but not very strong. The creek now out of sight on the left. At three and +one-eighth of a mile struck what I take to be the Burdekin, but no tracks +of drays or stock of any kind up this length. It flows east at this +place. Went about three-quarters of a mile on this course and two of the +horses becoming knocked up I am obliged to halt. What told upon them so +much today was that the banks of the creek were so rugged we were obliged +to travel in the loose sand in the bed of the creek. We hope to make +better progress tomorrow. From here the river appears to flow about 15 +degrees north of east but that won't continue far; I imagine we are a +little above the junction of the Perry with this river. The bed of the +Burdekin at this camp is about from 90 to 100 yards, and the +strong-running stream is confined between bergues on the north side to a +space of about twenty yards, and little better than knee-deep. Only a few +small fish visible. Magnificent gums on its banks and plenty of excellent +timber in every direction. This will be a most difficult part of the +country for drays travelling on account of the many steep-sided creeks. +At anything like a flood quite impracticable. + +Sunday, July 6. + +Camp 29. Last evening the wind blew for a short time fresh from east by +north then lulled down; shortly after the sky became overcast and during +the night we had a light Scotch mist; this morning no wind but sky +overcast with every appearance of rain. We tried some green hide that we +were reserving for camel's boots in our soup of this morning, and being +pickled in salt when taken from the bullock it imparted quite an +agreeable flavour to our scanty meal and we all enjoyed it much. Some of +the party put up badly with this short diet and appear to get quite +dispirited, although at sight of the tracks yesterday they are quite +elated, but it was only for a short time to become further depressed +after. Horses all about amongst the bergues and high grass; late at +starting. Started at 9.12 a.m.; for the first three and three-quarter +miles through open forest, good country; large oak creek from the +south-west joins the river at that distance. Our course to this was to +south of east-south-east nearly south-east; the river then bears east for +some distance, then north, then south, and afterwards to about +south-east; first part through some exceedingly intricate country, hills +close on the river with deep ravines and most difficult travelling. In +its present state no dray in the world could pass by it; first of all we +got one of the camels down in a creek, next one of the horses rolled over +into the creek and we had to make a road for them at last to descend into +the creek; now into and along the bed of the river; now up the steep +banks and then up stony hills to head, or more easily cross the ravines, +which was very trying to our animals, and finally completely knocked up +one of the weak horses which was with much persuasion got to the camp in +the afternoon after the camp was formed. After arriving he was killed and +we commenced to use his flesh to save the other dry meat as we must spare +a day here to refresh the animals; the latter part of the day's journey +was over rather better travelling; the hills still close to the river +with deep ravines. On this last bearing fully six miles on the opposite +or left bank of the river, at about two miles distance from our camp here +a large creek with abundance of running water joins from north-west by +north through apparently a not prepossessing country, very hilly and +little or no valley belonging to it; in travelling along the bed of the +river occasionally the bed is of a quicksand nature and very heavy. Sun +quite overcast all day, at night it cleared off. Wind south-east. + +Monday, July 7. + +Camp 30. Although the stars were out during the night and no dew we have +it very cloudy again today. I went to top of one of the highest hills on +right bank of river today and had an extensive view. The river appears to +bear nearly east generally for the north end of some large mountains in +that direction, at which place I think the river receives the River Perry +from the north and then flows south. Between the hill I was on and that +there appears to be a good deal of level-looking country, and the hills +on this side seem in a great measure to cease a short distance off. In +every other direction it is rugged with high broken hills and an +indifferent grass upon them with the exception of the very limited flats +near the river, on which latter there is always abundance of good feed +and splendid timber. Wind still from south-east by east but little of it. +The creek that joins this river about two miles up coming from north-west +by north I have called Clark's Creek after Walter Clark, Esquire, of Deep +Creek near Melbourne. The banks of the river are here very steep and +difficult of access. + +Tuesday, July 8. + +Camp 30. Heavy dew last night; foggy this morning. Very dense vegetation +along the banks and bergues of the river. The fish seen as yet are but +small, the largest are of the catfish kind. Started at 8.45 a.m., late, +the horses, even with the abundance of feed here, having strayed in all +directions. At one and three-quarter miles crossed narrow and deep +running creek from south by east. One of the camels in going up the hill +out of it tumbled over backwards, and detained us forty-two minutes. Then +ascended stony hills to avoid the ravines close to the river. At four and +a quarter miles a conical stony-topped hill close by on right, south, and +south of that a swamp with poplar, gums, etc., river close on left, +country open both sides of river, particularly opposite side to +north-north-east; at five and three-quarter miles crossed creek from +south-east (good, not broad nor deep but abundance of water) then +undulating stony country with low-sized trees (stunted) river bearing +northward; at seven and three-quarter miles crossed creek from south-east +by east, a little water; at nine miles crossed narrow deep creek, +bald-topped range of hills close ahead same side of river, running from +north to south. The river here sweeps round the north end of them, making +a considerable detour to north of east; we ascended the easiest of the +ridges easterly to avoid the steep gullies, and saw the river taking a +sweep south; I think it receives the Perry at its south bend. At twelve +and a half miles on an easterly bearing changed course to south by west, +or even west of that, over ridgy but good travelling and latterly flat +country, well grassed, for two and three-quarter miles and camped, one of +the camels refusing to travel, lying down occasionally. Distance +travelled about fifteen and a quarter miles. I wish our animals were now +in the same condition they were at Hayward's Creek and I would soon be at +Port Denison. I am surprised that the squatting stations are not further +advanced up this river. Our invalids are slowly recruiting. Has been a +beautiful day. + +Wednesday, July 9. + +Camp 31. Heavy dew last night. To give the horses a chance of doing +better last night they were let go without hobbles, and this morning they +have strayed to some distance and again caused us to be late in starting. +Started at 11.10 a.m. A number of natives must have been here on our +arrival last afternoon but must have decamped very hastily on hearing us, +leaving all their spears, cooking and cooked vegetables, food, etc. etc.; +the food they were cooking in their ovens and what was lying cooked +consisted of excellent roots of some kind or other, and a round fruit +which they roast and which is very good. We used all the roots and found +them most excellent and left in exchange a tomahawk, which no doubt will +suit their purpose as well, and suited us much better. I took the +precaution of carrying all their spears up to our camp, that in case they +might return to their camp in the night they might not molest us; it +saved us keeping watch but we neither saw nor heard anything of them +except their dogs howling. Numbers of blue mountain parrots here, and a +few ducks only. The river here is formidable and the banks rather steep +for easy access. On the south-south-easterly course; at one and +three-quarter miles crossed deep rocky creek with a little rainwater and +very steep banks; at three and a quarter miles passed a lagoon, more +lagoons off to the south-west under the low ridges; at six miles crossed +a small oak creek from south-west by west; at seven and three-quarter +miles crossed small good creek with plenty of water from south-west by +west. Halted at a couple of lagoons, nine and a quarter miles. One of the +camels we will be compelled to leave here; he has been a most useful +animal; we will in consequence have to curtail further our little effects +and leave many things behind. Our journey direct south-east and little +south today has not been more than about seven miles. The lagoons which +are deep run in a north-west by west half west course. Buried things we +left at south side of ironbark tree fifty-two paces about west 28 degrees +south of a marked tree and camp fire. + +Thursday, July 10. + +Camp 32. Ice in the quart pots this morning, the first we have seen +during the whole of our wanderings up to this; but I once before saw +where it had nipped off the young burnt feed before making the Burdekin. +Have called this Coppin's lagoons after our camel that is left here. +Started at 8.52 a.m. south-east about two and a half miles or so. At one +and three-quarter miles on an easterly bearing crossed a rocky and sandy +narrow deep creek from south by west with plenty of water in large holes; +good travelling till we turned easterly, then a little ridgy; at three +and a quarter miles a large creek from north-north-east joins the river +in a bend; a large mount in about that direction. The river now suddenly +turns south-east to south-south-east from east-north-east; at six and a +quarter miles crossed the River Clarke and had a tumble, horse and all, +heels over head into it; it had no stream but large sheets of water in +its bed (sandy). From south-west by west the large range on opposite side +of the Burdekin runs about east-south-east and west-north-west, splendid +bold mounts; crossed oak creek from south-west by south at nine and +three-quarter miles; from junction of this creek westerly end of mountain +range, table-topped, beyond the Burdekin bears 341 degrees; at eleven and +a quarter miles crossed small steep creek. The river, now closely +confined between steep hills, kept along the stony bottom of the range +for some time, but the camel turning over, and it being more rough ahead, +was obliged to get into and follow the bed of the river for some +distance. At twelve and three-quarter miles ascended the riverbank on +same side; at thirteen and a quarter miles crossed very steep creek with +water, and at fifteen miles halted at a small rocky creek on the ranges +with water and feed sufficient for our use. Since ascending the banks out +of the river our course has been about north 50 degrees east over a +succession of stony ridges with some spinifex. + +Friday, July 11. + +Camp 33. Heavy dew last night. Started at 8.15 a.m. on same bearing over +ridges till three and a quarter miles, being the point where Dr. +Leichhardt descended the steep mount close by. From this point the mount +and peak on opposite side of the river some distance off bears as +follows: south-west of table top 280 degrees, north-east peak 331 1/2 +degrees. Got into the bed of the river here comparatively easily and +followed it down its rocky and sandy bed for some distance till obliged +to turn out on the opposite side. A large island of rocks in the centre +of the river and deep water on both sides, the hills precipitous into the +river. We got up the opposite side pretty easily and followed it down, +crossing a deep ravine and stony ridge, and recrossed at two and +three-quarter miles on a bearing north of east, and crossed the river +back again, very steep on the side we crossed from but good getting out, +and came over ridgy, and latterly, basalt country, on bearing of about +east-south-east, and camped on the opposite side of the river at three +miles on last bearing, where there was a suitable place in the bed of the +river for killing one of our horses which was completely knocked up. This +camp is about two miles up from where the river takes a south-east bend +and receives a river running into it at that bend. About one-quarter mile +from it and nearer our camp another large running creek joins the +Burdekin which I have called the Campbell after Dal. Campbell, Esquire, +Melbourne. The larger one below, which is about one-third the width of +the Burdekin but down which quite as great a supply of water is running, +I have taken the liberty of calling the Bowen after His Excellency Sir G. +Bowen, Governor of Queensland. The latter stream joins the Burdekin from +north by east but comes from distant mountainous ranges to the east of +north-east. The smaller stream the Campbell joins the Burdekin from north +by west, but comes from north, or a little east of that, from a +mountainous country. As seen from a hill close by to west of the Campbell +the Burdekin there comes from a little north of west, and flows to south +20 degrees east, but not visible either way far. + +Saturday, July 12, Sunday, July 13, Monday, July 14, 1862. + +In camp, drying horseflesh; the wind from east; dewy, and at daylight +foggy along the banks and valley of the river but soon clears off; we +have had splendid weather for drying our meat. Caught some very nice fish +but not sufficient to be of any real service. The timber is not anything +like as large or so good as it is further up the river. The bed of the +river here is from 400 to 500 yards wide. The horse Goliah has given us +fifty-two pounds dry meat. We have shot a few crows, a cormorant, and a +white eagle with blue back, to make a stew for breakfast, that with a +little salted hide and about two pounds dried meat will make a very good +meal as matters stand at present. The remainder of the dried meat and +what we may shoot I hope will last us as far as the Farming River, which +is about ninety miles from this, to which river I saw people start for +from Sydney upwards of twelve months ago, and they must certainly be +there now; perhaps we may be fortunate enough to meet them this side of +that. I have been quite disappointed at not finding the stations much +higher up the river even than where I now am. + +Tuesday, July 15. + +Camp 34. Dull morning; heavy dew; much sheet lightning during the night +to south and east, heavy clouds in that direction this morning. Started +at ---- a.m.; for the first half mile or more down the river bed east 8 +degrees south; then crossed and on bearing of south 35 degrees east; the +river at crossing not more than 100 yards wide; first part through open +timber, and gentle ascent for one and a quarter miles to a basalt and +sandstone range, flat, well-grassed table-topped, and descended the same +at two and a quarter miles; the dip from the table-top to the slope only +a few yards; large boulders of basalt and sandstone; then well-grassed +but ridgy and occasionally scrubby country; crossed springy creek at +west-north-west (gum); at three and a quarter miles crossed fine gum +creek, running, with lots of palms (corkscrew) from west-south-west at +five miles; the country good till six miles, when it becomes more ridgy +and stony, with spinifex, but improves shortly after; at eight miles +crossed good creek; springs, etc., from south half east; close under +ranges towards the source of the creek the ridges open and apparently +well-grassed, though rather steep and stony; then over higher ranges and +stony ridges, well-grassed, and descended a very steep one, the river +close by on the left; at ten and a half miles rather rough, with ravines +at foot of the range running into the river; at eleven and a quarter +miles crossed a small creek from west-south-west with water in holes; +then rocky low ridges with but scant vegetation for a short distance; +then over rather flat travelling, well-grassed but indifferently +timbered, and a good deal of it inclined to be swampy in wet weather; a +good many poplar gums on it. The latter part rather rotten sandy ground. +Made the river at the point where it is forced by rocks on the opposite +side to this, sweeping out a very large piece of the bank on this side to +the distance of several hundred yards, making the river bed at this sweep +quite 800 yards across and well-timbered round the sweep on this side; +caught some excellent fish this afternoon, a black bream, the largest +five inches deep and fifteen to sixteen inches in length, excellent +firm-eating fish and a great help to our evening meal. Distance today +about fifteen and two-thirds miles. Rained a little during the afternoon +with first of all a strong gale from the southward accompanied with +thunder. Saw a platypus in the river this afternoon, first I have seen +during the journey. Cormorants here are numerous but difficult to be got +at and our shot is not heavy enough for them. Our crow-stew was excellent +this morning. + +Wednesday, July 16. + +Camp 35. A good shower during the night; foggy this morning, but the rain +evidently all cleared off; started at 8.3 a.m. course south by east; +crossed deep creek from north-west by west, little water; at two and a +half miles passed a swamp; at three and three-quarter miles crossed oak +creek from west-south-west; at four and a quarter miles changed course to +south 35 degrees east; crossed at one and three-quarter miles a small +creek from north-north-west, plenty of waterholes; same creek afterwards +was close on our left at five and three-quarter miles where it joins the +river, and another oak creek close by joins at nearly or at same place. +Then changed course to south 11 degrees east and passed lagoon at three +miles; passed through an end of considerable swamp; at six and a quarter +miles on our left and after going a short way saw where it had wound +round a ridge and was a large sheet of water and swampy land; before and +after this passed through several nasty thick belts of scrub with a very +fine large white tree with dark rough butt growing amongst it, Moreton +Bay ash, I imagine; made the river at nine and three-quarter miles where +some drays and sheep had crossed some time since; followed the river down +one and a quarter miles south-south-west, and crossed a fine creek from +west by north and camped about three-quarters of a mile up the creek; one +branch of it comes from north-west by north, the other and best from west +half south. Basalt ridge close to the river and south banks of creek; a +short distance down the river a cliffy precipitous tier of ranges comes +right on to the river with dark scrubby-looking tops. On the right bank +of the creek with its junction with the river is a mass of sandstone with +bullets of stones through it, and a yellow hard-looking clay perfectly +detached, the clay wall having a dip of about 45 degrees to south-west; +abundance of water up the left hand or southernmost creek. Distance +travelled twenty to twenty-one miles. I have called the creek we are now +encamped on Gibson's after ---- Gibson, Esquire, of Great Bourke Street, +Melbourne. + +Thursday, July 17. + +Camp 36. Ice again this morning, very cold during the night. Started at 8 +a.m.; four and a half miles on bearing of south by east along and over +basalt country, crossed rocky oak creek at three and a half miles from +west by south, swampy; continued this bearing for six and three-quarter +to seven miles and changed course to 60 degrees east of south; one and +three-quarter miles an immense swamp and lagoons, basalt ridges; close +round crossed over these ridges; bore a little more to the east; and at +five and three-quarters crossed a splendid stream from south by west with +a number of anabranches. Basalt on the flats as well as the ridges; +changed course to about east by south, horses tiring; halted at same, +strong-running stream at four and three-quarter miles; as it passes it +flows over falls in an east-south-east course along the foot of basalt +ridges and comes, as far as visible, from west and north. East of this, +apparently opposite side of the Burdekin River, are bald-topped ridges +about eight miles distant; basalt ridge on this side a considerable +distance in that direction. Distance twenty-two miles today. I have taken +the liberty of naming the stream (to all intents and purposes an +important river, though narrow compared with some streams, but down which +quite as great a supply of pure water is now running as in the Burdekin) +the River Browne after W.J. Browne, Esquire, of Booboorowie, South +Australia. Large masses of granite are here in the bed of this river and +on its banks, although the ridges close by are composed of very cellular +basalt and close-grained sandstone. No mountains visible at all close in +any direction. From the top of the heights, close to our camp, lots of +tracks of sheep and cattle. No appearance of a station; fancy they have +taken to the creeks. + +Friday, July 18. + +Very cold during the night, but beautiful morning. This river runs +parallel to the Burdekin for some distance and at only a very short +distance between. Started at 8.20 a.m. over the basalt ridges for the +sake of better travelling than we are likely to have in the Burdekin, for +some distance at least. South for one mile, then east-south-east through +open forest with basalt blocks occasionally, and rather swampy-inclined +land for two and three-quarter miles. Crossed a small sandy creek, vast +numbers of young palms, from south, then the land of granite formation +and stony; drainage to north and east. At three and one quarter miles +crossed large sandy creek with water and a number of large palms and +gums, from south-west, immediately after crossing, undulations of quite +sandy country but commencing with but little scrub; but at about three +miles from the creek obliged to turn out of it in a north-north-east +course or all our packs would have been torn off; the scrub was full of +game. On the last course we went about one and a half miles till we got +to the edge of the scrub, then about east by north for about one and a +half miles on to the south-west side of the large creek last crossed, now +in immense, large, deep, and long waterholes running in about an +east-south-east course, about parallel with the Burdekin, which creek we +followed on its right side, the scrub coming often to the banks. Very +fine stone fruit got here of a purple colour, quite an ornamental tree +about twenty-five to thirty feet high, fruit in clusters, about the size +of a large plum and very good boiled or roasted. At four miles on this +course crossed an oak creek from south half east, with water coming from +west side of stony ridges; then about three-quarter mile further to river +in a course east 15 degrees south, then followed down the river for about +one and a quarter miles and camped; distance travelled about sixteen and +one quarter miles. I have called this the Kissock after W. Kissock, +Esquire, Great Bourke Street, Melbourne. One of the horses completely +knocked up, and as we can observe no recent traces of stock on the river +made up my mind to kill him, spell a day, and carry as much of his flesh, +boiled, with us as will last a couple of days. The river is very broad +here, forming small falls with large blocks of granite-looking rocks, of +a light and some of a yellow colour, across its bed for some distance. + +Saturday, July 19. + +Spelled. Very cold night, beautiful morning, and throughout the day the +same weather. + +Sunday, July 20. + +Camp 38. Very cold night, beautiful morning. Proceed down the river. +Started at 8.37 a.m., our course for a short distance about south-east +then east-south-east; at one and a half miles crossed rocky creek, easily +passable for drays, from west-south-west; crossed sandy oak creek from +south-east by south (dry). At three miles crossed sandy palm creek (dry) +from south-south-east; at six and a quarter miles undulating nice +country; at eleven miles struck the river; a high point in a considerable +range on opposite side of river bears 88 degrees east from this point of +river. The river now runs in a south-west by south direction for about +one and three-quarter miles, and in that distance crossed two oak creeks, +one from west-north-west, the other from north-west by west; the river +then runs about south for about one and a half to one and three-quarter +miles, and suddenly takes a large bend to east or north of east, at which +bend a very large oak creek joins river from south-south-west; a range of +hills a short distance off on that same bearing. Camped in bed of creek; +lot of young oaks in bed of creek just sprouting. This creek I have taken +the liberty of calling the McKeachin after Alexander McKeachin, Esquire, +of Delagato, Manaroo, New South Wales. The timber here is neither so +abundant or so good for building purposes as higher up the river; the +latter is from 700 to 800 yards broad here, and a strong running stream +on right side. + +Monday, July 21. + +Camp 39. Hoar frost last night with ice on the ground again this morning +but beautiful weather. Started at 8.40 a.m. south-east by east to clear +creek and range, then south-east by south. Crossed sandy oak creek from +south half east. At half a mile crossed several sandy creeks near +together from west of south. At three miles crossed two sandy creeks from +west-south-west; when united will form a considerable one. At six miles +crossed large creek from south-west by south. Gums, palms, and the +paper-bark trees at six and three-quarter miles. Crossed at seven and a +half miles large creek with oaks, gums, paper-bark trees. From south by +west a very fine creek and excellent timber. No water at crossing but +abundance of reeds on banks. At ten and three-quarter miles considerably +ridgy, and passed large masses and cliffy hill, apparently of limestone. +Close on the right from the top of one of the ridges is seen to the right +a fine valley coming considerably from north of west and bearing off +round some high dark-looking hills ahead, with cliffy and rugged tops, no +doubt the valley of the Fanning River. Kept above course till at fourteen +and a quarter miles rough hills being close ahead, and the Fanning being +too much off to south and east, followed a small creek north-east for one +and a quarter miles and camped at a little water. The country here has +all been burned. Distance travelled about sixteen and a quarter miles. + +Tuesday, July 22. + +Camp 40. Neither dew or frost. Started at 7.52 a.m. north by east, +crossing two oak creeks from left to right, joining the one we camped on +last night. Made Burdekin River at eight miles. Highest point of Mount +Razorback bears from that point a little east of east-north-east. It has +been raining here lately. Then on bearing of east 15 degrees south at +three-quarters of a mile an oak creek joins the river from south, the +river then bears much away to east, or even north of east. Still on +bearing of east 15 degrees south. At two and a quarter miles crossed +small oak creek from south by west. At four and three-quarter miles +crossed fine large oak creek from south-south-west, sandy bed and reedy +banks. Open forest. Saw some natives and heard others who were much +alarmed. At eight and a half miles crossed sandy oak creek from +south-west, very zigzag in its course. Country very ridgy and inclined to +be lightly scrubby. Made the river at fourteen miles. Latter part very +ridgy and many precipitous creeks from the slopes, but otherwise +well-grassed. The greater part of the country travelled over today was of +granite formation with veins of quartz here and there, and lots of loose +quartz scattered about. A large hill opposite side of river here that I +take to be ---- Range, and another down the river about one and a half +miles bearing about south by west. The river here comes from north for +some distance, and after it has passed this on to the range about one and +a half miles down the river that appears to come right on it it bears off +suddenly to the north of east. No traces of stock or drays seen on the +river, and as another of our worst horses has become done up I will kill +him here and spell the other horses a day; boil as much of his flesh as +we can to take on with us and feast ourselves on the head, feet, and +bones for a day, taking his shoes off as usual in case some of the others +may require them. It perfectly astonishes me not meeting any settlers ere +this. Distance today about twenty-two miles. Splendid weather. Timber +indifferent here and not very abundant. + +Wednesday, July 23. + +Camp 41. Wind cold from north by west; neither dew nor frost. + +Thursday, July 24. + +Camp 41. Wind from same quarter or a little more west; neither dew or +frost but very cold during the night. Crossed the river here to save a +considerable sweep first to south between one and a half to two miles, +then to north of east. Started at 8.20 a.m. This is now the sixth horse +we have been compelled to kill for food, I trust it may be the last; went +across the river yesterday and saw the tracks of a few head of cattle and +from what I could judge not very old; hope to get to a station during the +day. From our camp here a fine peak on left side of river, between main +range and river, bears 48 degrees east of north. At the bend on right +bank of river, below our camp quite two miles distant, the end of a large +hill comes on to the river bearing 195 degrees; a very rugged peak east +of it on same side bears 183 1/2 degrees. Only two packhorses and one +camel now. Bearing east 33 1/2 degrees south over stony granite ridges; +made the river at a southerly bend at eight miles. A deep creek joins at +this bend. Then bearing south-east by south for a peak ahead, at two and +a half miles crossed large oak creek and several smaller ones before +that; at four and a quarter miles at peak changed course to south 2 +degrees west; at five miles made river, crossing in our course several +creeks from eastward. Mount McConnell from this bears a little east of +south-south-east; instead of altering our course to south 2 degrees west +from the peak, a good road avoiding some rugged ranges could be had by +keeping right on course of south 23 1/2 degrees east. The river +immediately below this passes in an easterly direction between two ranges +that come right on to it. The peak on the left bank I have called +Foster's Peak after A.W. Foster, Esquire, of the Murray River, New South +Wales. The bluff on the right bank and a little nearer than the peak I +have called the McLeod after James McLeod, Esquire, of the Darling River, +New South Wales. A fine long leading range some distance from right bank +of river, running north and south, and apparently table-topped, I have +called the Fletcher after G.B. Fletcher, Esquire, Tapio, Darling River, +New South Wales. + +Friday, July 25. + +Camp 42. Started at 8.35 a.m.; first over stony ridge, then good open +forest on a bearing of east by south; at five miles struck a river from +north-north-west which, immediately after crossing, went about east half +north. This river I have called the Foster after A.W. Foster, Esquire, of +the Murray, New South Wales; followed it in its course for two and +three-quarter miles, it then suddenly turns south-east; had to follow it +a quarter of a mile. Large mountain lying right across my course and +running about north by west and south by east; which I have called Mount +Buchanan after Alexander Buchanan, Esquire, of Anlaby, South Australia, +from whom the whole of this party met with the utmost kindness and +consideration. I then crossed over and went on a bearing of east by north +through open country, till at one and three-quarter miles crossed a fine +river from north by west which I have called the Scott after E.B. Scott, +Esquire, of Moorno on the Murray River, New South Wales. Went on this +course about two and a half miles; ascended a peak here and found Mount +McConnell to bear 225 degrees. Another large conspicuous mount from seven +to eight miles off bears 340 degrees; west and south of Mount Buchanan +bears 261 degrees. Changed course here to south one-quarter west, an +immense mountain being ahead in the easterly course, I should like to be +able to go, which I have called Mount Middleton after our right hand man, +one of the party, whose attention to his difficult duties and the good +example he showed to the rest of the party would entitle him to the +esteem of anyone in my situation. One and a quarter miles south +one-quarter west, then east half-south; immediately after the river +changing eastwardly the Foster River joins it; about two and a quarter +miles on last course and camped; the camel about done up and the country +next to impassable; before getting to camp had to ascend a long stony and +steep range, and no sooner up than down again in another place, and which +did not advance us half a mile on our course. We had a hard frost last +night; very difficult country. Mount McConnell bears 238 1/2 degrees. + +Saturday, July 26. + +Camp 43. A dewless and frostless night. Camel very much done up. Started +at 7.53, followed the River Scott. On the left bank is a high precipitous +mountain which I have called the Frederick, and on the right hand another +high mount which I have called the Phillip, after the two brothers +Fletcher of Melbourne. Just as the river takes a south-east course the +Scott joins the Burdekin as it comes from south-south-west, flowing to +north-north-east. In its whole width a perfect mass of slippery rocks and +deep water, and where we struck it no apparent current; although when it +contracts more and runs through more narrow rocks there is a strong and +rapid stream. After getting about one and a quarter miles along its bank +in a north-north-west direction was compelled to halt; perfectly +impracticable and will be a most intricate crossing. Mount McConnell +bears from this crossing-place about 241 1/2 degrees. This is a fearful +country and now that I see it I am not the least surprised at not finding +the Upper Burdekin peopled and stocked. A man has difficulty in getting +along on foot, much more so with quadrupeds; as for vehicles of any kind +quite out of the question anywhere in this quarter. I am at present at a +loss to conjecture how the dray, or drays and stock, found their way up +the river so far, unless they went up west of Mount McConnell or found +some more practicable route lower down the Burdekin, which latter I very +much doubt. The hill just opposite our encampment I have called the Poole +after R.T. Poole, Esquire, of South Australia. We are encamped by a large +gum tree, as the river takes an east by south course for some distance. +The most rugged country a man would ever wish to behold; and to add to +our difficulties in swimming across numbers of huge alligators are here +close to the camp. I ascended the hill just behind our camp with much +difficulty to view the country ahead and about me. It was exceedingly +stony and rocky. From it an extensive view, but much higher hills were in +the distance in various directions. It is about three-quarters of a mile +distant from our camp and bears from it 240 degrees; Mount McConnell +bears 242 1/2 degrees. A conspicuous dark mount, from eight to ten miles +off, bears 34 1/2, round the north end of which the Burdekin passes. The +furthest point of the Burdekin seen along its course, about four miles +off, at which place it suddenly runs to the northward 63 1/2 degrees. A +considerable sweep of the river between this and Mount McConnell bears +216 1/2 degrees from five to six miles distant. A high peak, and close by +it a high mountain in the same line of ranges about seven to eight miles +off across the river, bear respectively 93 1/2 and 104 1/2 degrees. +Beyond the north end (distant) of the above range is to be seen another +dark mountain bearing 76 1/2 degrees. Killed another unfortunate horse +(poor old Joseph Buggins). The hill on which I now stand I have called +Mount Bertram after Alexander Bertram, Esquire, of Sandhurst, Victoria. +The mount that bears 104 1/2 degrees from this, beyond the river, I have +called Mount Haverfield after ---- Haverfield, Esquire, of Melbourne. The +peak that bears 93 1/2 degrees I have called the Grierson after R. +Grierson, Esquire, of Great Bourke Street West, Melbourne. The +conspicuous mountain that bears 34 1/2 degrees I have called Mount +Roberts after G. Roberts, Esquire, of the Murray, New South Wales. + +Sunday, July 27. + +No passage over the ridge or mountains practicable. A raft constructed of +such materials as we can get here floated but indifferently with our +canteens, one leaky air pillow, and our boiling vessels inverted, some of +which were not air-tight, is ready for crossing tomorrow, the things and +the men that swim but indifferently; many of the alligators close by in +the same reach. + +Monday, July 28. + +After much swimming by Middleton and Hodgkinson we managed to cross all +the things and the camel. The horses we could not get to cross so left +them with the men to look after them till tomorrow when we shall try them +again and hope for better success; it is a most difficult, intricate, and +dangerous place; if they all cross in safety it is more than I expect. + +Tuesday, July 29. + +Camp 45. By much perseverance and difficulty got the horses and remainder +of the men safe across; by 4 p.m. packed up and started down the river +east by south, very rough, walking nearly all the way for about one mile, +at which place we take to the ranges; in the morning, on our way at about +three-quarters of a mile, two considerable running creeks join the river; +another running creek joins the river at camp. I shall take the camel on +and our only packhorse-load of stuff shall leave behind here till it can +be sent for; it consists chiefly of seeds which I should be sorry to +lose. I had intended to leave the camel here also, but after thought it +best to try and take him on over the ranges one stage and kill him, and +by doing so save a horse. + +Wednesday, July 30. + +Camp 46. Buried the things safely and securely from wet, and should not +the natives find them and dig them up they will be perfectly secure till +we can send back for them. Obliged to shoe one of the horses which lost +his shoe in crossing yesterday on the rocks. Started at 10.15 and at once +tackled the range, up a steep hill, down again in a north-east by north +direction, crossed a deep ravine, and ascended the first of a series of +steep stony hills in a north-east by east course; from the summit Mount +McConnell bears 246 degrees. The conspicuous mount round the north side +of which the Burdekin passes bears 23 degrees; followed the river in that +direction for about five and a half miles to a creek, the north and east +drainage of the large range under the western side of which we were +latterly travelling, and round the termination of them we camped at a +running creek of excellent water coming from east of south-east. We are +here very reluctantly obliged to kill our good and faithful companion the +last remaining camel (Siva) that was with us in all our reconnoiterings +and other journeys; he was indeed a splendid animal but now quite unfit +to travel beyond this. I hope to get sufficient of his flesh to carry us +into a station, or if the country is at all passable to Port Denison. We +are encamped under some splendid shady large-leafed tree in the bed of +the creek, leaves about ten inches broad and twelve to fifteen inches +long; some of the men found that the leaves dry were a good substitute +for tobacco and were soon puffing a cloud. + +Thursday, July 31. + +Spelled here today to boil down camel. Mild night, day warm, many recent +traces of natives here under the shade of these trees, they are firing +the grass in various directions around us but we never see anything of +them. The remnants of a broken gourd we found here, it has been used as a +vessel for carrying water; it was the size of a large coconut with a neck +about six inches long, through one side of which they had drilled a hole +for a cord for slinging on their arms. + +Friday, August 1. + +In Camp. Boiling down the camel's meat. Poole unwell with a slight attack +of fever and ague. We made a fine breakfast this morning off the camel +tripe and feet. I went out onto the top of a very high hill to have a +look at the country in front of us. We shall start tomorrow; I hope +shortly to find a station, if not we shall have to kill another horse, +and shall have to walk and ride alternately; I hope we shall not come to +that as the whole party will be obliged to be kept back on account of +having to keep pace with the pedestrian. + +Saturday, August 2. + +Started at 8.53 a.m., course east by north, each man taking with him a +certain weight of the boiled camel before him, as we are now reduced to +eleven horses, one alone with pack-bags. After travelling for some nine +or ten miles we came upon the tracks of bullocks, quite fresh, and +shortly after were gratified by the sight of the bullocks themselves with +two white men tailing them. We soon now were pitching into roast beef and +damper and, don't let me forget, potatoes and mustard. The station +belongs to Messrs. Harvey and Somers and is situated on the River Bowen, +a stream that flows northward into the Burdekin. Mr. Somers was not in on +our arrival; he soon however came in, and we were most hospitably +received by him. The flour during the night and for some few days after +had the most astonishing effect on all of us from the fact that our +digestive organs could not digest the bread, being so accustomed to the +easily digested meat; we were most of us in great pain and our legs and +feet swelled very much. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of McKinlay's Journal of Exploration in +the Interior of Australia, by John McKinlay + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13248 *** diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8c269ca --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #13248 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/13248) diff --git a/old/13248.txt b/old/13248.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ae03352 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/13248.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6965 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of McKinlay's Journal of Exploration in the +Interior of Australia, by John McKinlay + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: McKinlay's Journal of Exploration in the Interior of Australia + +Author: John McKinlay + +Release Date: August 22, 2004 [EBook #13248] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MCKINLAY'S JOURNAL *** + + + + +This eBook was produced by Sue Asscher + + + + + + + +MCKINLAY'S + +JOURNAL OF EXPLORATION + +IN THE + +INTERIOR OF AUSTRALIA. + +(BURKE RELIEF EXPEDITION.) + + +WITH THREE MAPS. + + + + +MELBOURNE: +F.F. BAILLIERE, +PUBLISHER IN ORDINARY TO THE VICTORIAN GOVERNMENT, +AND IMPORTER OF MEDICAL AND SCIENTIFIC WORKS. +LONDON. NEW YORK. PARIS. MADRID. + +COLONIAL AGENTS: +SYDNEY, A. CUBITT; ADELAIDE, W.C. RIGBY; TASMANIA, WALCH AND SONS. + +* * * + + +MCKINLAY'S EXPLORATIONS. + + +DIARY OF MR. J. MCKINLAY, + +LEADER OF THE BURKE RELIEF EXPEDITION: + +BEING JOURNAL OF EXPLORATIONS IN THE INTERIOR OF AUSTRALIA, +TOGETHER WITH CHART. + + +TO THE HONOURABLE THE CHIEF COMMISSIONER OF CROWN LANDS. + +Depot Camp, Cudye-cudyena, or Buchanan Lake, + +October 26, 1861. + +Sir, + +The following is a brief resume of the proceedings of the Burke Relief +Expedition since the date of my departure from Adelaide. + +Started from Adelaide with the camels, etc., on 16th August, 1861, and +overtook the remnant of the party, horses, cart, etc. etc., nothing of +any particular note occurring on the journey to Blanchewater (Mr. Baker's +station) more than ordinary on such journeys, save the worthlessness of +the cart and consequent detention thereon. A few days before arriving at +said station, I was informed that the natives had brought in a report of +some white men and camels being seen at some inland water by them, or +rather others of Pando or Lake Hope tribe, but did not give the report +much credit knowing how easy a person may be misled from the statement he +hears from natives, and the probability of putting a wrong construction +upon what he hears, more particularly from a tribe of people who really +do not understand what you say to them, having hardly any English, but +intend making every inquiry and, if at all satisfactory on the point, +will make a push for their relief. + +BLANCHEWATER. + +Got all the stores forwarded ex Lubra, and dray repacked, and started on +Tuesday, September 24; went about eleven miles, camels and cart camped at +small creek, the horses camped further on, having mistaken their +instructions; poor country. + +Wednesday, September 25. + +Tooncutchan, Mr. Baker's outstation--sixteen miles; met Mr. Elder and Mr. +Giles there, and Mr. Stuckey arrived in the afternoon; poor country. + +Thursday, September 26. + +Manawaukaninna, Messrs. Stuckey's outstation, unoccupied; thirteen and a +half miles. Mr. Stuckey and I went to Lake Torrens about three miles +distant to look out for a good crossing-place for the cart, which we did, +and returned to hut. Three of the horses had a narrow escape from +drowning before starting this morning. The country was a little better +today; filled all our water vessels and bags for the dry country between +this and Pando or Lake Hope. + +Friday, September 27. + +Started early; got all safe across the Lake Torrens, no water being at +our crossing nor in view. Horses and camels went on to camp about +twenty-five miles distant and leave what water was to spare for the dray +and my horse, and proceed on the next day to Lake Pando, which I found +afterwards they did, then bearing from 2 degrees 30 minutes to 3 degrees; +cart and sheep came twelve and a half miles on same course; at three +miles crossed Lake Torrens, then over a fearful jumble of broken +sandhills quite unfit to be described, occasionally passing a small flat +trending west-north-west and east-south-east; at eleven and a half miles +passed on our left a small salt lake, dry, half a mile long; watched +bullocks and sheep. + +Saturday, September 28. + +Started early, came ten miles similar country; did not get to within two +miles of where the horses and camels camped on 27th. I rode on and found +the water there, and very welcome it was. The bullocks refused to pull +and several lay down in the dray and a couple of them charged right and +left; unyoked them and came on with them to where the water was left, +from which place I meant to start the two blacks, Peter and Sambo, into +the lake with them; gave the blacks each a canteen full of water, also +Jack, the native shepherd, with instructions to keep on to the lake on +the tracks of the advance party, intending to ride over to the lake +myself to water my horse, leaving Palmer, and Frank (a native) with the +cart and all the water to remain till the bullocks returned for the cart. +Started and at one and a half miles found the bullocks at a standstill +and the sheep in sight, the bullocks refusing to be driven and charging +the blacks. Just as I came up by some mischance the coupling of one of +the charging bullocks gave way, and in an instant poor Peter was tossed +up in the air by Bawley and as he descended was caught up again and +tossed about on the ground; invariably the brute caught his horns against +the large canteen and saved the poor fellow's life. I was obliged to +leave the black then aft with the cart, and with Sambo started on for +water; travelled and spelled during the whole night and got to the lake +early Sunday 29th, party all right; lots of blacks, apparently peaceably +inclined. Found that Mr. Hodgkinson and Mr. Middleton had that morning +started for the dray with the camels with a supply of water. Mr. Elder +and Mr. Stuckey went to look at the country and returned in the evening; +the sandhills and flats alternately bore north-north-west and +south-south-east from the camel and horses camp of 27th. + +Monday, September 30. + +Mr. Elder, Mr. Stuckey, and Mr. Giles started; wrote a pencil memo to +town. Since we left last station weather very hot and disagreeable in the +extreme for the time of year. Anxious about the men and camels; went +westward some distance to find traces of the camels, thinking it probable +that they might have strayed from them; very hot, north wind, no traces, +nor did they return. + +Tuesday, October 1. + +Exceedingly anxious about the missing party; started out to the cart, +found missing party had arrived there all safe on 29th, and started early +on the 30th on their return. Immediately started back to lake, horse +knocked up; obliged to camp with him and arrived at camp on Wednesday 2nd +at 6 a.m., missing party not returned: thought I would never see them +again, and an awful blow it would be to me, in the first place the loss +of my two best men and the four camels I had so much reliance in. At once +on arrival sent for three horses and took Bell and Jack (the native) with +me to endeavour to get traces of them or the camels; proceeded east to +the end of the lake and round the eastern end northward but no traces +whatever; returned to camp with the intention of proceeding westward in +search with Jack, and to my infinite pleasure found they, with the +camels, had some short time before returned in a most exhausted state, +their mouths, tongues, and throats in a most pitiable condition, and +perfectly worn out; had they been out the remainder of that day without +success they (the men) must have perished. From their own account it +appears they, to lighten the cart, packed on the camels as much of the +light sundries as they could, and on their return they by some ill luck +got off the track and got confused, and after many efforts and leaving +part of their load they abandoned themselves to the guidance of the +camels who, by their instinct I suppose, brought them safe to a long lake +west of the one we were encamped at, some five or seven miles off. On +their arrival on the water they were met by a number of natives who +kindly got them water and fish to supply their wants, and after spelling +a time got some of them as guides to the camp on Pando, where they were +rewarded by presents of a tomahawk and blanket, etc. Started Bell out to +the cart with the bullocks and blackfellows, Sambo and Jack, leading a +packhorse with supplies of damper and water. + +Thursday, October 3. + +Invalids recovering; Hodgkinson does not seem to have suffered as much as +Middleton. + +Friday, October 4. + +Hodgkinson, with Davis and Jack, two freshest camels (Coppin and Siva) +and two horses and plenty of water and food, started to run their tracks +for the loading they left from the camels. The cart arrived all safe +about midday. The bullock, Bawley, never made his appearance, and I +suppose has gone to find his way back to Mr. Jacob's from whence he was +purchased. Cool westerly breeze. + +Saturday, October 5. + +Hodgkinson and party arrived all safe and were successful in finding the +left articles. Middleton very slowly recovering. + +Sunday, October 6, and Monday, October 7. + +Spelling the camels and bullocks; taking off the shoes of the horses that +were shod in town, having stayed on remarkably well. The country soft; +not likely to shoe them for a time; appear in good condition; bullocks +tender-necked. Rather a strange circumstance occurred while staying here. +A pelican, in an attempt to swallow a perch about a foot long by about +five inches in diameter or twelve inches in circumference, was choked +after getting it halfway down his throat, and found in the morning quite +fresh and the tail of the fish out of its mouth. A considerable quantity +of clover or trefoil on this lake; and at the eastern end on the flooded +flat, grass but not abundant. The country in this part does not appear to +have been visited by any rain for very many months; indeed years must +have passed since any quantity has fallen in this sandy region; the +bottoms of the clay-pans are nearly as hard as bricks. A considerable +quantity of saltbush of various kinds around the lake and on the flats, +with some polygonum on the flooded flats; innumerable pigeons. + +Tuesday, October 8. + +Started from Pando Lake Camp at twenty minutes to 9 a.m., wind west and +cool, on a bearing of 285 degrees, two miles north-north-west, to +junction of Pando Creek till 10.37; in all about four and a quarter +miles. Creek is about 250 yards to 300 broad; on the south-west bank of +lake there appears to be layers of salty substance. Tipandranara Lake +bears from junction 294 degrees; our camp of this morning 117 degrees; +south-eastern portion of lake 106 degrees; apparent course of Pando Creek +340 degrees. Within two miles the creek contracts to less than 100 yards, +and at camp about six feet. All arrived at 4.10 p.m. on small Lake +Uppadae or Camel Lake; total distance fifteen miles. Travelled over a +miserable country, with saltbush of various description, and samphire, +and small stones occasionally. Upper entrance to lake bears 12 degrees +from outlet; length about one and a quarter miles by an average of +three-quarters of a mile, surrounded by sandhills and very little timber +round it, and that little of the most miserable description of box; a +considerable quantity of rushes and a little grass round the margin, and +lots of waterfowl. For the latter half of the day's travel we were +pursuing a course from North 20 degrees West to North 10 degrees West, +and as much as north at last. + +Wednesday, October 9. + +Moved round western side of lake for one and a half miles; then bearing +20 degrees, at one and a half miles further struck the creek, now dry; +then 1 degree 30 minutes about three-quarters of a mile; on a bearing of +350 degrees, half a mile distant a creek comes in from the +east--evidently the same creek that leaves the main creek about one and a +quarter miles from this same course--forming a circuit as an anabranch, +from west to east one mile; then a bearing of 339 degrees for three and a +half miles. Found I had mistaken top of a dry lake for creek; changed +course to 145 degrees; three miles. Creek now alongside; general course +20 degrees; went that course two miles and camped at a long deep +waterhole. Creek dry in a number of places. I forgot to say that the day +we came to Lake Camel, the two natives, Peter and Sambo, absconded, after +getting shirts, etc. Those were the fellows that were to guide us and act +as interpreters with the natives concerning the white man reported +before, and carrying off with them a new canteen and strap, which we will +much want yet. + +Thursday, October 10. + +Started at 7.25; crossed creek at 9.30, bearing 20 degrees to North; +recrossed creek ten minutes past 10; same course; then North 40 degrees +East till twenty minutes to one; then crossed at the junction of two +creeks, apparently insignificant, and went east one mile to main creek; +then northward five miles. Scoured great part of the country ahead and +could find no water; getting late, and the day very heavy for the +bullocks; determined to get them to water; retreated in a course South 20 +degrees West about four miles, to a small pool of water in the creek that +I crossed at midday, and camped. + +Friday, October 11. + +Started with the camels and Mr. Middleton, and a native named Bulingani, +provisions and water, to go to the relief of the whites said to be in the +interior, but at the same time with the intention of returning to camp if +unsuccessful in finding a good camp for the animals. On a bearing of 18 +degrees, at twenty-two miles, arrived at Lake Perigundi, a semicircular +lake from three to four miles in length by one and three-quarter miles +broad. The water not very good; the natives even dig round in the clay a +short distance from the lake for water for their use. Appear friendly, +and we saw about 200 of them--more rather than under that number, and +looking remarkably healthy. Camped, surrounded by them on all sides +except the lake side about 300 yards off. One of the camels got bogged +and narrowly escaped. We kept watch and watch during the night, sending +the native who was with us to camp with the blacks, who gave us some +fish. + +Saturday, October 12. + +Up early and returned to camp. Found it deserted in consequence of +instructions given to Mr. Hodgkinson previous to departure--that he was +to examine the creek southward; and in the event of his finding good feed +and water (which at the camp were both indifferent) to remove the camp at +once, which he found, and consequently removed, leaving me a memo at an +appointed place of his distance and direction, which was about one and a +half miles south and west. Two of the working bullocks got off during my +absence, and before they were overtaken by the blackfellow (Frank) on +horseback, they had got down south as far as Lake Hope; so he reported on +arrival. + +Sunday, October 13. + +Today I started Palmer and Jack on horseback to look after Frank and the +bullocks, when they met with the bullocks coming back on their tracks; +preparing for a start tomorrow, carrying a supply of water; name of our +present camp, a fine long sheet of water, Wankadunnie; bears 220 degrees +from the camp retreated from. + +Monday, October 14. + +Started with bullock-dray at 6.30 on a bearing of 18 degrees; after the +first nine and a half miles travelled over undulating country of sand, +dry flats, and flooded ground. From the top of the highest sandhill at +that distance the whole country, particularly to the eastward, is one +mass of flooded timbered flats and subject to awful inundations; at those +times it must be quite impracticable--the main creek (apparently) upon +our right varying from one or two and a half miles in width, with patches +of young trees across its bed and sides. If this country had permanent +water and rain occasionally it would do well for stock of any +kind--having a fair sprinkling of grass compared with anything of late +seen; and at fourteen miles on a bearing of 18 degrees came to, and +crossed at an angle, the bed of a small dry lake (with lots of fine +grass) or watercourse half a mile wide. When rain has fallen on this +country it is difficult to say; most of the herbs and grass and shrubs as +dry as tinder and will ignite at once--but is much more open and fit for +pasture. At sixteen miles on same bearing crossed the bed of salt lake, +now dry and of no great extent, running north and south in an extensive +flat; spelled and had a pot of tea. Then on a bearing of 357 degrees for +nine and a half miles to camp on west side of Siva Lake, or Perigundi +Lake; found it exceedingly boggy; and what I supposed was clover, as seen +in the distance at my former visit, was nothing but young samphire; +little or no grass; watered the horses out of a canvas by buckets; whole +distance twenty-five and a half miles; all arrived at about 7 p.m. + +Tuesday, October 15. + +Anxious to get off to the place reported by the natives as the abode of +the white man, or men; and finding this lake won't suit as a depot till +my return, on account of its boggy nature and scarcity of feed, I started +today to endeavour to find a place suitable for that purpose, and +travelled over alternate heavy and high sandhills and flooded wooded +polygonum flats with a few grassy patches. At eleven miles on a bearing +of about 83 1/2 degrees came to a lake, Cudye-cudyena; plenty of grass +and clover but the water all but dried up, a few inches only being around +its margin; all the centre and south end and side being a mudbank--but +thought it would do by digging. On my way back came on a creek with +sufficient water and grass, though dry, to suit the purpose, at two +miles, and pushed on to camp. A strange circumstance occurred this +evening, showing isolated instances of gratitude and honesty of the +natives. In the evening after my return a number of natives were near the +camp; amongst them, just as they were about to depart, I observed an +elderly man and his son, a boy of eight to ten years who appeared to be +an invalid and was about to be carried off by the father. I stopped him +and, as I was at supper, gave the youth some bread and meat and tea; when +they all took their leave. About the end of the first watch (which was +regularly kept) I was awake and heard the person on watch, Middleton, +speaking, evidently to a native who, to my astonishment as well as to +Middleton's, ventured up to the camp alone at night; and what would the +reader suppose his errand was? It was to bring back our axe that one of +his tribe had purloined unseen from the camp during the afternoon. On +delivery of said article he at once took his leave, promising to come in +the morning. + +Wednesday, October 16. + +In the morning a few of the natives approached the camp, but stood off at +a respectable distance, not sure how they were to be dealt with for their +dishonesty, till by and bye the old man with a few others came up; and +gradually they that stood aloof came up also. Amongst them were women and +children to whom I made various little presents of beads and fishhooks, +with which they seemed pleased. To the old man for his honesty I gave a +tomahawk with which he appeared highly pleased--his name was Mootielina; +the thief I could not find out, or would have given him his deserts +likewise. They did not muster very strong this morning, only about 100; +but numbers of others were visible all round the lake at the different +camps. They all appeared very civil, whether from fear or naturally I +could not guess. Started bearing 40 degrees, passing north-west arm of +lake three-quarters of a mile; then a bearing of 100 degrees. At +three-quarters of a mile cleared the timber that surrounds the water-mark +of lake; then began to ascend the sandhills which were very soft, high +and steep, for about half a mile or little more, to the highest of them +on same course. Changed course to 85 degrees, descending the various +sandhills for about a mile; then alternate flooded flats with timber +(box) and polygonum, and sandhills, till arrived at a water close by my +course home yesterday, and within three-quarters of a mile of where I +intended to fix the camp as depot; and which will suit the purpose very +well, having sufficient water and abundance of grass on a large flooded +flat immediately east of, and running north and south. Distance travelled +on last course six and a half miles, total distance eight and a half +miles to Careri Creek, which seems to flow from the west of north, or +nearly north and south; but name of waterhole is Wantula Depot. + +Thursday, October 17. + +At depot making arrangements for a start; out in search of the water the +whites are supposed to be at. I will take with me Mr. Hodgkinson, +Middleton, and a native of this country, Bulingani (who seems to say he +knows something of the whites) four camels, three horses, one hundred and +sixty pounds of flour, thirty-two pounds of sugar, four pounds of tea, +eleven pounds of bacon, and some little necessary, etc., for persons +likely to be in a weak state. Leave Bell in charge of the arrangements of +the camp, Davies in charge of the stores. About twenty natives are +encamped within pistol shot; but have made a fold for the sheep and put +everything in such a shape that I may find things all right on my return. +Opened the sausages and found them all less or more damaged, one tin in +fact as nearly rotten as possible, which have to be thrown away; the +others are now drying in the sun in the hopes we may be able to use them. +We would have been in a sad fix without the sheep. + +Friday, October 18. + +At 8 a.m. started; crossed well-grassed flooded polygonum flats or plains +for an hour, crossing Kiradinte in the Careri Creek; then left the creek +on the left and passed over a succession of sand ridges. At 9.15 arrived +at Lake Cudye-cudyena at about nine miles. It was quite a treat, +abundance of good water, and any quantity of grass of various kinds, and +plenty of clover. It bears 345 degrees, is about six miles long, and +fully half a mile wide, well timbered. On a bearing from this southern +end of lake (now called Lake Buchanan after Mr. Buchanan of Anlaby, from +whom the whole party experienced the utmost kindness) Lake Bulpaner, now +all but dry (and what was mistaken by me the other day, when in search of +a good depot, for this lake--very dissimilar indeed) bears 158 degrees, +distant about two miles along almost a valley. Saw some of the natives on +the way here, and sent Mr. Hodgkinson and Bulingani back for one of them +to forward a letter to Camp Depot to desire them to move on to this +place--so much more desirable for a depot than where they now are. Turned +out the animals to await their return. In the meantime three lubras +arrived on the opposite side of the lake and we called them over. Shortly +after, Mr. Hodgkinson and the black came back; we had some luncheon, +started the lubras back to the cart at the depot with a note requesting +them to advance to this lake and, at 1.25 p.m., started on a bearing of +345 degrees, along the side of the lake and at 2.45 left the north-east +sweep of the lake; then on a bearing of 32 degrees over sand ridges and +saltbush flats. Very open country till within one mile of camp at Gunany, +a large creek about sixty to eighty yards wide and from twenty to thirty +deep, on which we found a number of natives just finishing their day's +fishing. They had been successful and had three or four different sorts +of fish, namely the catfish of the Murray, the nombre of the Darling, and +the brown perch, and I think I observed a small cod. They offered, and I +took several, which were very good--they promised to bring more in the +morning. We came upon and crossed a large flooded wooded polygonum flat +which continued close to the camp. Distance travelled twenty-five and +three-quarters miles. + +Saturday, October 19. + +Early this morning about eighty natives of all sorts, healthy and strong, +visited the camp and could not be coaxed or driven away. I think they +would have tried to help themselves were it not from fear of the +arms--how they came to know their deadliness I cannot say. Altering one +of the camel saddles that has hurt one of their backs and caused us to be +late in starting. Started twenty minutes to 9 a.m. Immediately crossed +creek to Toorabinganee, a succession of reaches of water in a broad +creek, some apparently deep, spelled half an hour, crossed creek and went +over very high sandhills, pretty well grassed, with a little saltbush of +various kinds, with some flooded and saltbush flats, and arrived at +Luncheon Place, an island often, now partly, dry, on south-eastern side +in an extensive irregular lake of about eight and a half to nine miles +long by an average of one and three-quarters to two miles--very hot--name +of Lake Canna Cantajandide. Thought I might be able to cross it at the +narrowest place with the horses and camels instead of going all round, as +it put me out of my course. Sent Mr. Hodgkinson to ascertain its depth, +and found it too deep, so had to go round. Arrived at Luncheon Place at +ten minutes past 12, and started again twenty minutes to 4, and travelled +to east end of lake, bearing 202 degrees till 4.17; then course of 27 +degrees over exceedingly high and abrupt sandhills with poor miserable +flats between them; towards the end of our day's journey over a rather +more flat country with large dry beds of lakes or swamps, as dry as ashes +with a salt-like appearance, the only vegetation being a few scattered +bushes of samphire and an occasional saltbush--a more dreary country you +could not well imagine. Arrived at Lake Mooliondhurunnie, a nice little +lake nearly circular and nearly woodless, about one and a half miles +diameter, at five minutes to seven p.m. Abundance of good water and +plenty of feed--clover and some grass--bearing of creek that fills lake +350 degrees; east end 87 degrees; west end 303 degrees; north side 15 +degrees, distance travelled twenty-eight miles. On arrival at lake saw +several native fires, which on our lighting ours, were immediately put +out. Saw nothing of them. + +Sunday, October 20. + +At daylight about 90 to 100 natives of all sorts visited us; they were +not so unruly as those of the morning before, having evidently had some +communication with whites--using the word Yanaman for horse, as in +Sydney, and one or two other words familiar to me. Plenty of fish, of +sorts, in the lake, although not very deep. Cuddibaien bears 100 degrees. +The natives here say that the whites have left above place and are now at +Undaganie. I observed several portions of European clothing about their +camps as on our course we passed them. At the camp we found twenty to +thirty more natives, principally aged and children; and on the opposite +side of the lake there was another encampment, in all numbering about 150 +souls. The sandhills in our course were exceedingly high on the western +side but pretty hard; but on the eastern side almost precipitous and soft +drift sand; a dray or cart might get east, but I cannot fancy it possible +it could return. An exceedingly hot day, wind north. On our way the +natives informed us that the natives we had left in the morning had +murdered the man said to be at the end of our day's stage. On some of the +ridges and on crossing a large flat creek I observed two new trees or +shrubs (they are both) from one I obtained some seeds like beans, and +rather a nice tree; the other, when large, at a distance looks like a +shea-oak, having a very dark butt and long, drooping, dark-green, narrow +leaves, and did not appear to have any seeds at present. Started at 7.17 +till twenty-two minutes to 10, nine miles, on a bearing of from 100 to +105 degrees; at 8.18 sighted a large timbered creek, distant one mile, +for about seven miles, 360 to 140 degrees. At twenty-two minutes to 10 +observed a large dry salt lake bearing 341 degrees, north-west arm 330 +degrees, north arm 355 degrees, distance to extreme point of north bank +nine miles. Bullingani informed us that a large lake lay on a bearing of +110 degrees, some distance off, named Murri Murri Ando. At 10.15 started +on a fresh course of 64 degrees, crossing, 11.15, a small salt lake +rapidly drying up. At 11.30 altered course to 100 degrees; at twenty-five +minutes to 12 to ten minutes to 1 spelled on sandhill, waiting for the +camels, they feeling the effects of the steep sandhill. At nine minutes +past 1 altered course to 116 degrees; at 1.15 altered course to 161 +degrees; at seven minutes to 2 changed to 47 degrees; and at 2.20 reached +Lake Kadhibaerri. Found plenty of water and watered the horses (the +camels some distance behind, quite unable to keep up) and at once +proceeded northward along the side of a large beautifully-timbered +grassed and clovered swamp (or creek about one and a half miles across) +to ascertain the fact as to the presence of a European, dead or alive, +and there found a grave rudely formed by the natives, evidently not one +of themselves, sufficient pains not having been taken, and from other +appearances at once set it down as the grave of a white, be he who he +may. Returned to lake to await the coming of the camels which was not +till about 5 p.m. Determined in the morning to have the grave opened and +ascertain its contents. Whilst I went to top of sandhills, looking round +me, Mr. Hodgkinson strayed a short distance to some old deserted native +huts a short distance off, and by and by returned bearing with him an old +flattened pint pot, no marks upon it--further evidence that it was a +white, and felt convinced that the grave we saw was that of a white man; +plenty of clover and grasses the whole distance travelled, about eighteen +miles. Kept watch as usual (but did not intend doing so) but just as we +were retiring a fire suddenly struck up and we thought some of the +natives had followed us, or some others had come to the lake, rather a +strange matter after dark. The fire soon after disappeared, which made us +more certain still that it was natives. Intend spelling the camels for a +few days to recruit them; one on arrival was completely done up and none +of the others looking very sprightly. + +Monday, October 21. + +Up in good time; before starting for the grave went round the lake, +taking Mr. Hodgkinson with me to see if natives were really on lake, as I +did not intend saddling the camels today if there were no natives here, +intending to leave our camp unprotected, rather unwise, but being so +short of hands could not help it, the grave being much out of sight. +Found no natives round the lake nor any very recent traces saving that +some of the trees were still burning that they (when here last) had +lighted. We started at once for the grave, taking a canteen of water with +us and all the arms. On arrival removed the earth carefully and close to +the top of the ground found the body of a European enveloped in a flannel +shirt with short sleeves, a piece of the breast of which I have taken; +the flesh I may say completely cleared from the bones, and very little +hair but what must have been decomposed; what little there was I have +taken. Description of body, skull, etc: marked with slight sabre cuts, +apparently two in number, one immediately over the left eye, the other on +the right temple, inclining over right ear, more deep than the left. +Decayed teeth existed on both sides of lower jaw and right of upper; the +other teeth were entire and sound. In the lower jaw were two teeth, one +on each side (four between in front) rather projecting as is sometimes +called in the upper jaw buck teeth. I have measured the bones of the +thigh and leg, as well as the arm, with a cord, not having any other +method of doing it. Gathered all the bones together and buried them +again, cutting a lot of boughs and other wood, and putting over top of +the earth. Body lies with head south, feet north, lying on face, head +severed from body. On a small tree, immediately south, we marked MK Oct. +21, '61. Immediately this was over we questioned the native further on +the subject of his death. He says he was killed by a stroke from what the +natives use as a sword (an instrument of semicircular form) five to eight +feet long and very formidable. He showed us where the whites had been in +camp when attacked. We saw lots of fish bones but no evidence then on the +trees to suppose whites had been there. They had certainly chosen a very +bad camp in the centre of a box scrub with native huts within 150 to 200 +yards of them. On further examination we found the dung of camels and +horse or horses, evidently tied up a long time ago. Between that and the +grave we found another grave, evidently dug with a spade or shovel, and a +lot of human hair of two colours, that had become decomposed, on the skin +of the skull, and fallen off in flakes--some of which I have also taken. +I fancy they must all have been murdered here; dug out the new-formed +grave with a stick (the only instrument we had) but found no remains of +bodies save one little bone. The black accounted for this in this manner, +he says they had eaten them. Found in an old fireplace immediately +adjoining what appeared to be bones very well burned, but not in any +quantity. In and about the last grave named a piece of light blue tweed +and fragments of paper and small pieces of a Nautical Almanac were found, +and an exploded Eley's cartridge. No appearance on any of the trees of +bullet marks as if a struggle had taken place. On a further examination +of the blacks' camp where the pint pot was found there was also found a +tin canteen, similar to what is used for keeping naphtha in, or some such +stuff, both of which we keep. The native says that any memos the whites +had are back on the last camp we were at on the lake, with the natives, +as well as the ironwork of saddles which on our return we mean to +endeavour to recover if the blacks can be found; it may be rash but there +is necessity for it. I intend before returning to have a further search. +No natives yet seen here. + +Tuesday, October 22. + +Breakfasted and are just about to get in the horses to have a further +search when the natives make their appearance within half a mile of us, +making for some of their old huts. Immediately on observing us made off +at full speed. Mounted the horses and soon overtook one fellow in much +fear. In the pursuit the blackfellow with us was thrown from his horse; +the horse followed and came up with us just as we pulled the frightened +fellow up. Immediately after our blackfellow came up, mounted his horse, +and requested us at once to shoot the savage, as he knew him to be one of +the murderers of the man or party; but we declined, thinking we might be +able to glean something of the others from him. On taking him back from +where we caught him to the camp, he brought us to a camp (old) of the +natives, and there dug up a quantity of baked horsehair for saddle +stuffing. He says everything of the saddlery was burned, the ironwork +kept and the other bodies eaten--a sad end of the poor fellows. He stated +that there is a pistol north-east of us at a creek which I have sent him +to fetch; and a rifle or gun at the lake we last passed which, with the +other articles, we will endeavour to recover. Exceedingly hot; windy and +looks as if it would rain. The natives describe the country from south to +north of east as being destitute of water or creeks, which I afterwards +found cause to doubt. I have marked a tree here on north side MK Oct. 22, +'61; west side, Dig 1 ft.; where I will bury a memo in case anyone should +see my tracks, that they may know the fate of the party we are in search +of. There are tens of thousands of the flock pigeon here; in fact since +we came north of Lake Torrens they have been very numerous and at same +time very wary. Mr. Hodgkinson has been very successful in killing as +many of them as we can use, mixed with a little bacon. Before the native +went to fetch the pistol he displayed on his body, both before and +behind, the marks of ball and shot wounds now quite healed. One ball +inside of left knee so disabled him that he had to be carried about (as +he states) for some considerable time; he has also the mark of a pistol +bullet on right collarbone; and on his breast a number of shot--some now +in the flesh but healed. His family, consisting of four lubras and two +boys, remained close to our camp awaiting his return, which he said (from +pointing to the sun) would be 10 or 11 o'clock next day. When called at +twenty minutes to 11 p.m. to take my watch, I had not been on duty ten +minutes when I observed a signal fire in the direction he had gone, about +six miles distant, and wondered he did not make his appearance, but all +was quiet for the rest of the night, excepting that at intervals the fire +was replenished. + +Wednesday, October 23. + +4 a.m. Just as we were getting up, not very clear yet, headed by the +fellow I yesterday sent for the pistol, came about forty others bearing +torches, shields, etc. etc. etc., shouting and kicking up a great noise +and evidently endeavouring to surround us. I immediately ordered them +back, also telling the native that was with me to tell them that if they +did not keep back I would fire upon them, which they one and all +disregarded--some were then within a few paces of us, the others at +various other distances. I requested Hodgkinson and Middleton to be ready +with their arms and fire when desired. Seeing nothing else left but to be +butchered ourselves, I gave the word Fire. A few of those closest retired +a few paces and were being encouraged on to the attack when we repeated +our fire; and until several rounds were fired into them (and no doubt +many felt the effects) they did not wholly retire. I am afraid the +messenger, the greatest vagabond of the lot, escaped scathless. They then +took to the lake, and a few came round the western side of it, southward, +whom we favoured with a few dropping shots to show the danger they were +in by the distance the rifles would carry on the water. They then cleared +off and we finished with them. I then buried the memo for any person that +might happen to follow my footsteps, at the same time informing them to +beware of the natives as we had, in self-defence, to fire upon them. I +have no doubt, from the manner they came up, that they at once considered +us an easy prey; but I fancy they miscalculated and I hope it may prove a +useful lesson to them in future. Got breakfast ready and over without +further molestation and started at 10.30 on a bearing of 197 degrees. At +11.15 reached a recently-flooded richly-grassed flat, surrounded by a +margin of trees; the main bulk of it lying south of our course; thence +bearing 202 degrees, stopping twenty minutes for camels; and proceeding +and at 12.30 crossing north-west end of another dry lake or grassed and +clovered flat similar to the other. At 1.20 made a large box creek with +occasional gums, about from fifty to sixty yards wide and eighteen to +twenty feet deep, sandy bottom, where we struck it perfectly dry where a +stream flows to west of north with immense side creeks (I fancy Cooper's +Creek is a branch of it); followed its bed in its course northward and at +2 p.m. reached a waterhole with no very considerable quantity of water. +Watered the camels and horses. This creek is named Werridi Marara. From +thence Lake Buchanan bears 232 degrees 30 minutes; Kadhiberri 41 degrees; +Lake Mooliondhurunnie 296 degrees. Crossed the creek and went on a +bearing of 215 degrees 30 minutes till 6 p.m., striking same creek and +following its bed (dry) for about two miles and reached Dharannie Creek; +a little indifferent water in its bed, very steep banks (about thirty +feet high) and sixty yards broad. The bed of the creek from where we +struck it at 6 p.m. was chiefly rocky or conglomerate stone resembling +burned limestone. + +Thursday, October 24. + +Left at 7.15 bearing 215 degrees; travelling one hour and twenty minutes +over splendid grassy flats with low intervening sand-ridges. At five +minutes to ten made Arannie, a recently-dried lake (abundance of clover +and grasses) three miles long by one broad, at rightangles to our course, +and struck it quarter of a mile from its northern extremity. At 10.22 +made Ityamudkie, another recently-dried lake; plenty of luxuriant feed. +At ten minutes to 11 reached its western border at a creek called +Antiwocarra, with no great quantity of water, flowing from 320 degrees. +At 1 p.m. left Antiwocarra. At five minutes to 2 made a large flooded +flat, recently under water, with a great abundance of clover and grasses +reaching as far as the eye can trace. At rightangles to our course at +2.15 reached its western border, and at 2.25 reached the depot at Lake +Buchanan or Cudye-cudyena--the place where I directed the camp to be +shifted to--and found everything in good order, much to my satisfaction. +My black female messengers it appears did not go back at once to our camp +with the note I gave them, and consequently they did not get here till +Sunday. + +Friday, October 25. + +At camp very much the appearance of rain but none has fallen. Clearing +off any heavy trees round our camp that could be used by natives as +places of concealment. Have made up my mind to send a party into the +settled districts as far as Blanchewater with such information regarding +the object of my search and as much general information as is in my +power, with copy of journal and tracing showing our route, which Mr. +Hodgkinson will be better able to do neatly at Blanchewater than here in +the tents; although he has made here on the spot such a one as would give +a very good idea of all that is necessary. No part of this country has +had any rain for very many months; the grasses and herbage generally on +the hilly ground being like tinder. If it had an ordinary share it would +be an excellent healthy stock country. From the numbers of natives and +their excellent condition I am satisfied that many lakes and creeks in +this part are permanent; and as I mean to give it a good look over I have +come to the conclusion that I will require a further supply of flour, +tea, sugar, and a few little et ceteras, and will therefore send horses +with the party that goes to Blanchewater under the guidance of Mr. +Hodgkinson to bring up additional supplies, trusting to get them there, +and at the same time hoping this course may meet the approbation of the +Government; for in so doing I adopt the course I would pursue on my own +account and therefore do it on theirs. The men are in excellent health +and good spirits, and the animals except the camels (they cannot stand +the heavy hills of sand if at all hot, which it was on our last trip) are +all in good condition--many of them much better than when we left +Adelaide. The wind is blowing from all parts of the compass but rather +cool. For days previous it kept from the north and generally very hot +indeed. As yet no rare specimens obtained of birds, animals, or anything +else. + +Saturday, October 26. + +Threatens very much for rain; very sultry; sun overcast; and wind from +every quarter except north. Will start Mr. Hodgkinson, Bell, Wylde, and +Jack (the native) on Monday 28th October if nothing comes in the way, and +will request Mr. Hodgkinson to endeavour to procure a native that can +speak the language of the natives here; as those we have got do not know +one word nor, on the contrary, do the natives here understand them. They +all circumcise and principally knock out the two front teeth of the upper +jaw. After all the threatening for rain the day has closed without any. + +Sunday, October 27. + +Wind south and sultry; everything ready for the return party making a +start tomorrow; I expect them to be absent about three weeks. I am sorry +so much time should be lost; however should any rain fall ere they return +I will go over to Cooper's Creek Depot; but the country is so exceedingly +dry in this region at present that, unless I can make out to hit upon +those places where water has been left by the last flood, it would be +quite impossible to travel with anything like safety. Not a single quart +of water (surface left by rain) has been fallen in with since we left +Lake Torrens; and I question very much (from my knowledge of the Darling +country) whether Mr. Howitt has been able to push his way out as far as +Cooper's Creek yet for the want of rain, and am almost satisfied in my +own mind that Burke and party either reached the north coast, or at all +events went a very long way out, on a bearing of (firstly by account of +the natives) 311 1/2 degrees to or passing a salt lake or watercourse +(perhaps then fresh) where the natives report that the whites killed +their horse. They call the place Beitiriemalunie; there is also another +lake, salt now (perhaps then fresh) called Baramberrany. They gave no +particular intelligence as to the camels save mimicking their awkward way +of travelling with their heads thrown back. A bearing of 311 1/2 degrees +would take them near to Eyre's Creek; and I have no doubt that at that +time Burke and party went out from Cooper's Creek (in December last) they +would have to contend with too much water instead of the want of it, as +they must have travelled out of their way, very many miles often, to pass +the immense basins, swamps, and watercourses (boggy) that must have come +in their line of travel; and at that time all this country, perhaps to +Stuart's line of route, could have been thoroughly examined, as I can see +in many places large watercourses in the direction; and my belief is that +Burke's party were massacred on their return by their outward route, and +by one of their old camps. Whether they were all slaughtered or not it is +impossible to say from the traces and the considerable time that has +elapsed since they were killed. I will endeavour to examine the country +all round this locality for further traces of the party and camels; and +on return of my party, if not before, will push out a scouting party +towards Eyre's Creek and that quarter. I retain the two tins found near +the scene of the disaster. This for the present brings my journal to a +close. + +JOHN MCKINLAY, LEADER. + +* * * + + +[COPY OF LETTER BURIED AT LAKE MASSACRE.] + +S.A.B.R. EXPEDITION. + +October 23rd, 1861. + +TO THE LEADER OF ANY EXPEDITION SEEKING TIDINGS OF BURKE AND PARTY: + +Sir, + +I reached this water on the 19th instant, and by means of a native guide +discovered a European camp one mile north, on west side of flat. At or +near this camp traces of horses, camels, and whites were found. Hair, +apparently belonging to Mr. Wills, Charles Gray, and Mr. Burke or King, +was picked from the surface of a grave dug by a spade, and from the skull +of a European buried by the natives. Other less important traces--such as +a pannican, oil can, saddle stuffing, etc., have been found. Beware of +the natives; upon whom we have had to fire. We do not intend to return to +Adelaide, but proceed to west of north. From information, all Burke's +party were killed and eaten. + +I have, etc., JOHN MCKINLAY. + +P.S. All the party in good health. If you had any difficulty in reaching +this spot, and wish to return to Adelaide by a more practicable route, +you may do so for at least three months to come by driving west for +eighteen miles, then south of west, cutting our dray track within thirty +miles. Abundance of water, and feed at easy stages. + +* * * + + +CONTINUATION OF JOURNAL. + +(The preceding portion having been forwarded to Adelaide in October, +1861.) + +Monday, October 28. + +At 2.45 p.m. started Mr. Hodgkinson, Bell, Wylde, and Jack (native) with +four saddle-horses and twelve packhorses and saddles. Weather sultry, sky +overcast. Between 9 and 10 p.m. a heavy gale of wind from west, with a +good deal of thunder and lightning, which blew our encampment quickly to +the ground, after which we had a few squally showers from same quarter, +but nothing of any consequence; towards morning the wind quite lulled. + +Tuesday, October 29. + +Wind variable from north-west to south, and very cloudy, in expectation +of more rain; about 10 p.m. a native signal-fire south of this some +distance. Have seen none since my return--no great loss; none have made +their appearance during the night. + +Wednesday, October 30. + +At daylight quite a calm; then at 6 a.m. wind from south, then +south-east, then east, with a beautiful clear sky and the air very +agreeable. During the afternoon wind back to south and then a fresh +westerly breeze. Native dogs rather troublesome, lay baits with +strychnine. + +Thursday, October 31. + +At daylight found three baits gone and found close by two dead dogs. +Unpacking cart to put wheels in order, being rather loose, when one of +the baits fell from limb of tree, where for the time they were put, and +unfortunately our poor dog discovered it and ate it, and in a few moments +was dead. Wind as yesterday. Sowed some melon (pie), pumpkins, orange +pips, apricot, peach, and plum stones. During the night a native +signal-fire seen south. + +Friday, November 1. + +Wind westerly and strong and lots of light fleecy clouds. About 9 a.m. +the native Bullingani, who was out with me, came into camp alone, having +disappeared the evening of my return from Kadhibaerri. I wish he +understood a little English as then he would be of much service. + +Saturday, November 2. + +Wind westerly round to south and east during the day, afternoon very +strong westerly. Rode out today to the highest sandhill south-east and +round to west and north-west of the lake I am now on to see if any +likelihood of water to the east, west, or north-west; found a good deal +in a creek running northerly on west side of lake and beyond it; returned +by west side of lake. The native went away this afternoon, promising to +be back tomorrow. + +Sunday, November 3. + +Very strong west wind but cool and agreeable. Native not returned. + +Monday, November 4. + +In the morning wind light from south, veered round to east; blew strong +but cool. From the termination of the trees on creek that fills this lake +Anlaby Hill bears 165 degrees; patiently awaiting a good shower to enable +me to get to Cooper's Creek Depot to ascertain if any further traces of +Burke's party or his camels are there visible, or if Mr. Howitt's party +have arrived. On my way out on Saturday about two miles from here found +dung of horses or mules, of some considerable age, and on my return to +the camp one of the men a short distance from the camp picked up part of +a hobble-strap with black buckle, much worn and had been patched, or +rather sewn, by someone as a makeshift; the leather was perfectly rotten. +No traces on any of the trees round here of anyone having been encamped. +The flies all along have been a thorough plague; fortunately, and strange +to say, we have had no mosquitoes, but thousands of small gnats take +their place, and find their way into everything. Our native Bullingani +not returned. I hardly expected him as he did not seem inclined to give +any further information either as to water or any other subject. He says +they are mustering about fifteen miles south of this for a grand (weima) +or corroberrie, and informs me that they are gathering in from all +quarters, so that I hardly like to weaken the camp here by taking one of +the men away with me. I have generally seen at the break up of those +great meetings that if they can manage it they in some way or other do +mischief, and unless I see a peaceable dispersion of these people I will +not move far away, at least for not longer than a day or two. + +Tuesday, November 5. + +Wind west; during the day round to south and east; temperature mild. A +few natives made their appearance on the north-west side of the lake some +distance off; towards afternoon four of their young men came to the +opposite side. I sent for them and they came over and had some dinner; +after a few questions about waters, etc. etc., they took their leave +southward, the way no doubt the rest of their tribe had gone. + +Wednesday, November 6. + +Wind east in gusts and cloudy; in afternoon blew strong. Temperature very +agreeable. + +Thursday, November 7. + +Wind during the night and at daylight blew very strong from the east, +towards noon it moderated; sky much clouded but I suppose up here it will +all blow past without any rain, although it appears to be falling in the +east. Wind round to south-east and south during afternoon with every +appearance of rain. + +Friday, November 8. + +No rain during the night but it was very mild and close; wind south-east +with a few clouds but with very little appearance of rain. Anxious to +find water about a day's stage eastward of depot; started out for that +purpose east three-quarters of a mile to top of sandhill close by; then +on a bearing of 118 degrees for large sandhill at quarter of a mile. +Entered a well-grassed flooded flat for about two miles, and at about one +and a quarter miles further arrived at sandhill. About two miles +south-south-east is the grassy bed of a fine lake now dry, unless there +may be a little water in the creek at the south-east end of it. Not +seeing anything in the appearance of the country to indicate the presence +of water on this course, I started on a bearing of 68 degrees over +sandhills, and at two miles came to very cracked flooded flats, and +continued on them for four and a half miles, and at one and a half miles +further came to a long salty swamp running nearly north and south, a +desolate spot; then a sand rise and another of the same. Changed course +then to 90 degrees over sandhills; at seven miles long flooded grassed +flat, north to south; then sandhill; at eight miles came to an immense +flooded flat, north to south, with great width at its northern end. At +two and three-quarter miles further came to top of very high sandhill, +and close under (east) an immense dry salt lake or very large flat. From +this there is the appearance of a large lake northward, bearing 12 +degrees 20 minutes; it may be mirage, but I have observed it further back +on the day's stage, and from top of the highest hills it looks more like +water than mirage, and will therefore start for it, and if I find it is +water, it will suit my purpose as a stage on my intended journey to +Cooper's Creek on the arrival of the party now absent at Blanchewater. +For the first three miles over sand-ridges, then over cracked flooded +flats (grassless) for four miles, a box or gum creek on my right running +northward and southward. At the end of this distance I am satisfied that +I have been deceived; and as the day has been very hot and my horse +appears to be ill I will shape my course for the camp. Started at ten +minutes to 4 p.m.; find my horse thoroughly done up with, it appears, +dysentery, and am obliged to camp on top of large sandhill at 6.50 p.m.; +not a breath of wind and smoking hot. I chose this for a camp that I may +be enabled at daylight to see if there are any waters within range of +sight. + +Saturday, November 9. + +At daylight have a splendid view of the country round but not the +slightest appearance of water anywhere; start at 4 a.m. and I scarcely +think from the look of the horse that he will be able to take me in. I +never in so short a time saw an animal fall away so much. At 7 a.m. +struck the tracks of our horses and camels as we returned from +Cadhibaerri and followed them to camp. They led a little more to the +south than my course, as I now find that would take me out on the lake +camp about two miles north of camp. At about 8.10 a.m. got to camp, the +horse very seedy and myself not feeling very well. Some natives visited +the camp during my absence and I now see some on the opposite side of +lake. I sent for one to endeavour to get some information from him. They +had started off for our old camp before the messenger arrived but he +followed and one of them came back and stopped the night. I mean to take +him out east if he stops. I am getting very unwell from dysentery. Wind +strong from the north and very disagreeable. + +Sunday, November 10. + +Very unwell today; fortunately we have plenty of medicine. Wind moderate +from north-east to east and south-east. The native visitor, under +pretence of going to bring a net from the opposite side of the lake, took +French leave. I dare say when well I shall be able to get another. + +Monday, November 11. + +Worse rather than better today. To add to my misfortunes I have got my +right knee and back tendons become very stiff and painful, so much so +that I can hardly move. Very cloudy; wind changeable from north-east to +south-east. + +Tuesday, November 12. + +Wind strong from east and south-east. Little better today but leg equally +sore and stiff. Getting the cartwheels wedged and put to rights. From the +awful torment of the flies, the horses, although on magnificent feed, are +not in anything like the same condition as they were ten days ago; to +endeavour to escape them they go into the lake, and remain there for +hours at a stretch, lying down in the water and occasionally ducking +their heads under but to no purpose. Killed a sheep as the part of the +last one that was not jerked got putrid during next day and had to be +thrown away. Am sorry also that the sausages, after dragging them so far, +after all have to be thrown away, being perfectly unfit for use; had they +been good they would have been a splendid thing. We find the bacon an +excellent standby. Threatens much for rain. + +Wednesday, November 13. + +Rain blown off. Much better today. Wind very strong from east and +particularly cold, so much so that I can keep my coat on and not feel +inconvenienced by it; whereas before one's shirt was sufficient. Wind +chopped round in the evening to south, pretty strong. + +Thursday, November 14. + +Getting quite well again but knee quite stiff and painful. Very cold +during the night and at daylight quite ready for a topcoat. Wind strong +from east; moderated at noon and got warm. It is quite a pleasure to see +how well the bullocks are freshening; some indeed fit to kill; they don't +seem to suffer so much from the flies as the horses or camels. Two of the +latter (the Melbourne ones) had their backs slightly bruised and, +although constantly attended to, take a very long time to recover. + +Friday, November 15. + +Wind east at daylight. Thermometer stood at 54 degrees; this is lower +than I thought it would have been and the morning is not anything like so +cold as yesterday morning. I will notice the temperature during the rest +of our stay here. At five in the afternoon it stood at 100 degrees. +Bullingani and his two lubras came to the camp accompanied by another +native of Lake Perrigundi. + +Saturday, November 16. + +Wind east at daylight; thermometer, 63 degrees; breeze very moderate; at +noon died away to a calm. At 2 p.m. thermometer in sun 140 degrees; at 6 +p.m. 106 degrees in the sun. Some natives opposite fishing in the lake; +one here busy making a net from the rushy grass that abounds round the +lake. At sunset quite a calm. + +Sunday, November 17. + +Quite a calm at daylight; temperature in open air 68 degrees; at 8 a.m. +slight breeze from north, thermometer in sun 118 degrees; at 10 a.m. 136 +degrees; at noon 160 degrees with wind from north-west with a number of +thunder-looking clouds. At sunset temperature 97 degrees; still cloudy. A +further arrival of natives on opposite side of lake. + +Monday, November 18. + +At daylight calm; temperature 73 degrees in open air. At 10 a.m. +temperature 143 degrees in the sun out of the wind; wind from north to +north-west. A number of natives arrived this morning. At twenty minutes +to 11 a.m. temperature 154 degrees; at noon cool breeze temperature 146 +degrees; at sunset light breeze from north-west, temperature 102 degrees. +Anxiously expecting the party under Mr. Hodgkinson. + +Tuesday, November 19. + +Wind north at daylight; temperature 77 degrees in open air; up till noon +blew strong. Temperature at noon in sun out of the breeze 136 degrees. At +sunset wind moderated; heavy clouds from south-east round by south-west +to north. At 9 p.m. temperature 96 degrees. At 12 blew a strong gale from +south-east accompanied by a very little rain. A good deal of lightning +and a little thunder from the southward of west, round west and north of +west and apparently raining. + +Wednesday, November 20. + +Wind working round from south of east to north of east. At 6 a.m. +temperature 84 degrees; very cloudy and threatens much for rain--perhaps +when the wind moderates we may have a fall. For the last few days +Middleton has been laid up with a very bad sore ulcerated throat but is +now nearly recovered. I am now quite recovered and anxiously awaiting the +return of Mr. Hodgkinson's party that I may be enabled to start for +Cooper's Creek by a route a little more to the southward than when I +tried when last out. At 1 p.m. wind fallen and changed to +west-north-west; temperature 98 degrees. Wind suddenly chopped round by +west to south from which quarter till dark it blew quite a gale, causing +the lake to recede about 600 yards further north. Highest temperature +during afternoon 105 degrees; at 7 p.m. 90 degrees. It looks exceedingly +like rain and very boisterous. Mr. Hodgkinson's party not yet arrived. At +midnight a few drops of rain with the high wind. + +Thursday, November 21. + +Quite a calm, the sky completely overcast; whether it will rain or not +remains to be seen. The water in the lake has returned to its old bed. +Temperature at daylight 85 degrees. From a long conversation I had with a +native yesterday, who came to the camp, I am led to believe that only one +of the whites was murdered at Lake Cadhibaerri at the time of the attack +upon them by the natives there. On the return of the party from the +north-west they repulsed the natives, killing some and wounding others; +the party buried their comrade and marched southward. The natives, on +seeing that the whites had proceeded onwards, immediately returned to the +scene of the disaster, dug up the body, cut off all the principal +muscular parts, and feasted upon their revolting repast. So minutely does +this native know all their movements that he has described to me all the +waters they passed and others at which they camped, and waters that they +remained at for some time, subsisting on a sort of vetch seed that the +natives principally use here for food, and obtained in large quantities +on many of the flooded flats by sweeping it into heaps, then winnowing +it, then grinding or pounding it between two stones, then mixing it with +water into the consistency of damper, and finally making a cake and +putting it into the ashes the same way as damper--when cooked and fit for +use it tastes rather strong, but no doubt they could live upon it for a +long time as it must be wholesome. That, with the game and fish they +could get from the waters of the creeks and lakes, would keep them alive +very well if they did not further attempt to make their way to the +Darling (which the native says they did) but I hope soon to see and trust +they have not attempted to do so. If they have not done so, and that they +are alive and escaped the natives, their relief is certain. One thing I +cannot arrive at is how long or how many moons it is since they were +attacked at Lake Cadhibaerri, as I then could form a much more accurate +idea of the truthfulness or otherwise of the native's statements; but it +must be some considerable time as the body I found was perfectly +decomposed, and on the skull even there was not a particle of skin, but +as bare as if it had lain in a grave for years. A slight shower this +afternoon, hardly sufficient to wet one's shirt. Temperature highest +during the day 104 degrees, very close and disagreeable; at sunset +temperature 88 degrees, heavy clouds all round, not a breath of wind. +Hodgkinson's party not yet arrived. If he does not come within the next +two days I shall feel very uneasy. Had a visit from about a score of +natives, some of them from the north-east, other two from the +west-north-west about the stony desert, as they describe an abundance of +stones in that quarter. Wind from south-east to south, during the night a +very little rain. + +Friday, November 22. + +Daylight quite cloudy and like rain. Temperature 82 degrees, wind +chopping all round; at noon south and north of west. Temperature 142 +degrees and still a cool breeze blowing; sunset temperature 90 degrees, +wind southward and strong. No appearance of Hodgkinson and party. The +natives in a great stir here tonight about something--about a dozen of +them crossed the lake to us after dark, wishing to camp near for the +night; but as I did not approve of their movements in the evening +immediately sent them off again. + +Saturday, November 23. + +At daylight wind strong from the east; temperature 80 degrees, at 5.30 +a.m. blew quite a gale from south, the sky quite overcast and in every +other part of the country would make preparations for a heavy fall of +rain, but I have seen so much of this here that I don't expect rain till +I see it. Temperature noon 110 degrees, rain all blown past; at sunset +wind still strong from south; temperature 84 degrees. No appearance of +Hodgkinson's party. Natives assembling in great numbers on this +lake--distributed some beads, bracelets, and other trinkets amongst them, +at which they seemed much pleased. + +Sunday, November 24. + +Wind south-east beautifully cool; temperature at sunrise 63 degrees; at +noon in shade 84 degrees; at sunset wind south, temperature 76 degrees; +cloudy. Hodgkinson not arrived. + +Monday, November 25. + +At 1.30 a.m. temperature 62 degrees; at sunrise temperature 58 degrees, +wind east-south-east, beautifully cool; at noon temperature 106 degrees +in the sun and wind; at sundown 82 degrees, gentle breeze. + +Tuesday, November 26. + +Wind east, at sunrise temperature 63 degrees; at noon in the shade +temperature 79 degrees, very light breeze: temperature at 2.30 p.m. 110 +degrees, wind west-north-west and cool; at sunset temperature 90 degrees, +calm. No appearance of the party from Blanchewater. + +Wednesday, November 27. + +Calm at sunrise, temperature 60 degrees; at 9 a.m. 116 degrees in the +sun; at 1 p.m. 118 degrees. Got the horses in the forenoon and went east +three and a half miles; first three-quarters of a mile over sandhills, +rest of the way over flooded ground to Goderannie Creek; not much water +now; then to Palcooraganny. At present this is the dry bed of a small +lake with plenty of dry clover and grasses in the dry bed. On the +north-east side of the lake is a well dug by the natives about ten to +eleven feet deep with about one foot of water at present in it and good. +I suppose a considerable quantity could be had if the hole were enlarged. +Close by there was an encampment of blacks, in all about a dozen, not the +same apparent well-fed fellows that frequent the lakes and main creeks. +From enquiry it appears that during the dry season this is the sort of +water they have to depend upon, and I think the wells are few and far +between. A high sandhill was some little distance off and to it I went; +from the top of which I had an extensive view. Could see nothing +northward and westward but a jumble of lower sandhills looking very +dreary without even a creek with its timber to break the monotony of the +view. From the top of the hill there was water at a distance of one and a +half to one and three-quarter miles. Depot about sixteen miles distant. +Goderannie Creek is deep, with abundance of fish of various sorts, and +drains all the creeks that fill our depot lake, and the creek to the west +of the lake over the sandhills. Started the blackfellows and whites to +dig a well close by the depot before I went away this morning. At eight +feet eight inches struck water (good). Will deepen it tomorrow and see +what supply would be likely to be had if necessity would require it. +Party not yet returned; feel quite uneasy about them but suppose they did +not get what they were sent for as soon as they expected. + +Thursday, November 28. + +At daylight wind strong from south-south-east, at sunrise temperature 63 +degrees. Enlarging and deepening the well. Temperature at noon in the sun +and wind 106 degrees; at sunset 73 degrees. Finished the well, now being +nine feet six inches deep, three and a half feet broad and five feet +long. For the first four feet it was a mixture of light-coloured clay and +fine sand, next three and a half feet was a mixture of gypsum and blue +clay, next to bottom a little clay mixed with chiefly fine sand, then the +water seemed to come in from all quarters. Party not yet +arrived--exceedingly anxious about them. + +Friday, November 29. + +Wind south-south-east and cool at sunrise, temperature 54 degrees, being +much lower than we have had it except once. There is a depth of ten +inches of water in the well during twelve hours. At 7.30 a.m. two natives +arrived on opposite side of the lake, bringing the joyous tidings that +the party under charge of Mr. Hodgkinson had camped at a creek called +Keradinti about eight miles from this last night, so that I expect them +every hour--I was heartily glad to hear of them. At 9.30 a.m. Mr. +Hodgkinson and party arrived safe, for which I was truly thankful; I was +afraid something had happened to them from their apparent long absence. I +am sorry that the native Jack, that accompanied them from this, deserted +about the inner stations, having heard some idle report of something +having happened to the party here. Mr. Hodgkinson has brought back with +him nearly everything I required. By him I also received some Adelaide +papers in which were some Melbourne telegrams, one of which announced the +rescue by Mr. Howitt of one of Burke's party, King, so that I have been +deceived as to appearances at Lake Cadhibaerri respecting the different +colours of hair found. Still I am under the impression that when Burke's +diary is published that it will show of some affray with the natives +about that place, or they would not have acted towards us when there as +they did. By receipt of such intelligence, and that now the whole of the +unfortunate party are accounted for, it renders my journey to Cooper's +Creek, as I intended, useless for any purpose of relief. Had they on +their arrival from the north coast at Cooper's Creek depot only pushed +westward this length they could, with the greatest ease to themselves, +have made the Adelaide stations. I am quite surprised that they could not +get south by Strzelecki's Creek, being under the impression that +two-thirds of the water of Cooper's Creek was drained off by that +watercourse southward. My impression from observation here is that a very +great portion of the waters of Cooper's Creek is drained northwards from +this. Before leaving this it is my intention to push eastward some +distance to ascertain the character of the country, and on my return to +push westward for some distance to ascertain if the stony desert exists +so far southward as this; I will then proceed northward and examine the +waters reported by the natives to exist in that quarter, and ascertain if +they are likely to be of permanent use to South Australia. From them I +shall be entirely guided by the appearance of the country there as to my +future movements. I am now satisfied that water can be had by digging. By +the time I return from the east and westward the horses that have been +down to the settled districts will have so far recovered from their +fatigue, and be again able to proceed northward. At 5 p.m. depth of water +in the well fifteen and a half inches, the water very hard and clear, +quite the opposite of the lake, which is very soft and rather milky in +colour. Mr. Hodgkinson, since he has been absent, has had a severe attack +of illness brought on, I believe, by injury sustained from a pummelling +he received at Apoinga, near the Burra, from one of the camels, Siva, who +at that time was very unruly and inclined to be vicious. He has +repeatedly complained and even now is not at all the thing. I trust he +will thoroughly recover as he is a very energetic little fellow and the +want of his services would be a considerable loss to me on my coming +journey. Highest temperature during day 120 degrees. + +Saturday, November 30. + +Wind south-south-east. Temperature at sunrise 70 degrees; depth of water +in the well at 5 a.m. eighteen and a quarter inches. Temperature at noon +99 degrees in the sun and wind. Temperature at sunset 84 degrees; wind +west of south a little cloudy; so it was last night. + +Sunday, December 1. + +A little rain during the night but not enough to wet a sheet of paper. At +sunrise temperature 70 degrees, calm. At noon slight breeze southerly; +temperature 110 degrees. Found suspended the spring of one of Terry's +breech-loading rifles round the neck of a native; he describes the +remaining portions of the rifle out to the north-east, which will be +nearly in our north course. Highest temperature during the afternoon in +the sun 129 degrees; at sunset 99 degrees. + +Monday, December 2. + +Wind south-south-east, temperature at sunrise 77 degrees; sky completely +overcast. Start out eastward to examine the country with two camels, five +horses, and sufficient food for one and a half weeks, taking with me +Middleton, Poole, Frank (a native), and a native of this place. My main +object in going out now is firstly to ascertain if there is a likelihood +of a flood down Cooper's Creek this season, after all the rain that has +fallen along the eastern side of the continent some months back, and +which I thought possible might have fallen as well on and to west of +coast range, so to secure to us an open retreat in the event of our being +able to make some considerable advance northward, and being detained some +time. And secondly to ascertain if anyone was as yet stationed on +Cooper's Creek, to intimate to them my intentions of proceeding northward +for some distance, and the almost certainty of crossing any track of +either of the search parties from the northern coast could possibly make +en route to Cooper's Creek or even Eyre's Creek. Started at 9.15 a.m., +and passed through nothing but sandhill and flooded flat country till 3 +p.m., and arrived at Tac Wilten Creek, containing little water but +drinkable. For the first few miles the sandhills were further apart with, +in the interval, salt-bush and grassy flats. Watered the horses and +camels; crossed the creek, passed up the south side; crossed a sandhill; +crossed the creek, went a short distance to north side of creek; +recrossed it and went up south side to water. This is a long narrow strip +of water, not deep and drying up fast. A number of natives here. Crossed +creek again and went to Aunrinnie; arrived at north-east end of water and +crossed creek at 4.30 p.m. Distance about twenty-five miles. The water +here although enough is quite unfit for use, the horses and camels +refusing it; but there is good green feed in the flat. + +Tuesday, December 3. + +Started at 8 a.m.; passed over sandhills till 8.43 and made large lake, +dry, Cullamun by name, destitute of vegetation and no margin of trees; +passed over sandhills and flooded flat to a creek very broad, deep, and +well defined by timber, and trending northward; not much water at +present, good here but unfit for use above and below, like that of last +night; creek called Agaboogana. Distance about eight miles. I went there +rather out of my course to water the camels, being the nearest in going +anything like the course I wished; passed sandhills through south end of +large dry lake at 11.22, and again sandhills; then through large flooded +swamp, Narrogoonnoo Mooku, with no marginal trees; southern end a good +deal of cane grass; then again sandhills till 12.46; then large cracked +flooded plain, Wandrabrinnannie, till arrived at a creek with no water; +crossed and rode up creek on south side to east of north to Barka Water, +no feed; got down into the bed of the creek and rode up about +three-quarters of a mile to a water called Moollaney, pretty good; no +great quantity and but little feed. Total distance about twenty-five +miles. A lot of stones of a fruit found here, of a very ornamental little +tree from six to fifteen feet high, which I have secured. + +Wednesday, December 4. + +At or rather before daylight Middleton, in attending to the camels, +unfortunately got his foot seriously injured by a considerable-sized +stick which was stuck in the ground; its end penetrating deeply into the +foot as he was returning to the camp down the steep bank. I am afraid I +will have to return with him; I have pulled out several ragged pieces of +wood from the wound; a lot of small tendons protrude. I will try one day +up the creek and see if he can stand it. Started at 9.40 leaving creek on +right; crossed small flooded flat to sandhill; then good low sandhills, +firm travelling; passed a water called Appomoremillia, about one and a +half miles to our right in the creek. Crossed creek in the centre of a +cracked flooded flat bearing to the north by west; passed over sandhills +and a heavy flooded cracked and timbered flat in which is a creek bearing +north-east with sandy hillocks and native wurlies. Bore south to creek +Goonnooboorroo with little water. Distance about sixteen miles today. +Middleton's foot pains him much. + +Thursday, December 5. + +Obliged to camp with Middleton. On a large gum tree marked MK (conjoined) +Dec. 4, 5, 1861. One large creek comes in here from the south; and +immediately below this about 100 yards another from same quarter. +Bronze-wing and crested pigeons here; also some beautiful parrots, black +ducks, teal, whistlers, painted widgeons, and wood-duck in small number; +also parakeets and quail. Some dry grass here on top of banks up to my +waist; further out there is some good tussocky grasses and there has been +plenty oats. Secured seeds from the bean tree and the stones of the fruit +before alluded to. Fish in water here, although there is only a small +quantity and drying up fast. In looking for the horses in the morning up +the main creek found, about three-quarters of a mile from this, where +Burke had camped in the bed and had dug for water. From the appearance of +their camp and quantity of camel dung he slept more than one night here. +I think when they camped there there was water both below and above; it +is now quite dry however. A small quantity of sewing twine was found at +this camp. + +Friday, December 6. + +Middleton's foot a little easier; thought of returning as he is quite +unfit for work, but have made up my mind now to go on and ascertain the +facts I went out to obtain. I therefore started at 8.25 a.m. for the +upper waters of the creek, keeping on the south bank; crossed several +creeks until 12 o'clock, when we found in the camp, a little above +Pardulli, a gum tree marked W.J. Wills, N.N.W., xlv. yds., A.H. Turned +out our horses here for some time; between the last crossing of the creek +and this I got a view of a couple of red sand bluffs and distant +sandhills, or hills of some kind, to north-west. Started from Wills's +grave at 4.10 and crossed creek; struck the creek again at 5.35 with +plenty of water to Howitt's camp, xxxii.; thence on to Burke's grave, +striking dry creek and following it to Yarrowanda; arrived here at 7.10 +p.m. + +Saturday, December 7. + +Started at 7.7 a.m. and came to Burke's grave--about two miles on south +bank of creek. On the north-east side of a box tree, at upper end of +waterhole, native name Yaenimemgi, found marked on tree R.O'H.B., +21-9-61., A.H. Deposited a document in case of the return of any party. +Saw a cobby horse on arrival here last night; tried to catch him. Saw the +tracks of cattle up the creek, short distance from him; they had gone +further up the creek to a water, Cullimuno. Spelled today. + +Sunday, December 8. + +Started back for camp; passed large numbers of natives; marked small gum +sapling MK roughly; made for heavy creek that joins another at +Strzelecki's Creek, and camped at a water called Tacdurrie, a small water +about two miles from Gooneborrow in the main creek. Distance travelled +today about twenty-seven and a half miles. + +* * * + + +[COPY OF DOCUMENT LEFT AT COOPER'S CREEK, DATED 7TH DECEMBER, 1861.] + +TO THE LEADER OF THE PARTY OUT FOR THE REMAINS OF THE LOST BURKE AND +WILLS, BUT MORE ESPECIALLY TO THE OFFICER IN CHARGE OF THE DEPOT LIKELY +TO BE FORMED ON THIS CREEK. + +Sir, + +I beg to state that I have had communication with Adelaide and have +received papers from there intimating the relief of King, the only +survivor of the Melbourne Gulf of Carpentaria party, and an announcement +that the Melbourne Government were likely to have the remains of the late +gentlemen removed from this creek to Melbourne, to receive a public +burial and monument to their memory, and at the same time stating their +intention of establishing a depot somewhere on this creek to await the +arrival of one or other of the parties (in search of the late Burke and +Wills) from Rockhampton, or the Albert, on the Gulf of Carpentaria. + +I beg to state I am with my party stationed on a lake about eighty-five +miles westerly of this; and immediately on my return there I start +northward, and for the first part of my journey a little to east of +north, and will, at every suitable camp on my route, bury documents +conveying the intelligence meant to be conveyed to either of the parties, +by the depot party likely to be formed here, of the fate of the late +party; by which means they will be put in possession of the facts, and +can return to the Albert or go on through to Adelaide. There is at +present, and will be for some time to come, easy access to Adelaide by my +route, which the wheel tracks of my cart have clearly defined. + +By this means of intimation to the parties in question it will relieve +the party to be stationed here from the necessity of passing a summer in +this hot region. My course will intersect any course either of the +parties out from the northward can make between Eyre's Creek and the late +Burke's depot on this creek. + +I beg to remain, Sir, + +Your most obedient servant, + +JOHN MCKINLAY, + +Leader of the S.A.B.R. Expedition. + +* * * + + +Monday, December 9. + +Started at 7.25 a.m.; followed creek down and passed Goonaboorroo +waterhole; passed flooded cracked flats and sandhills to Molanny Creek. +Distance travelled today seventeen miles. + +Tuesday, December 10. + +Started and crossed creek at 7.30 a.m., over sandhills, then through bed +of large dry lake or swamp; name of swamp Wando Binannie; a good deal +cracked and bad travelling. From thence through low sandhills, flooded +box flats, steep sandhills; crossed Narro Dhaerrie swamp; crossed creek +at east end of main water; this drying up fast. Crossed creek twice and +camped on south side of lower end of Tac Welter. + +Wednesday, December 11. + +Started at 6.30; crossed creek and flat; over sandhills and flooded flat +with large saltbush and polygonum; timber to the right and some samphire +bushes; crossed my old single track, with alternate sandhills and cracked +flooded flats, and arrived at our depot camp on Lake Buchanan at 11 a.m. +Distance about nineteen miles. + +Thursday, December 12. + +Remain in camp; temperature at sunrise 68 degrees; wind east; 11.30 a.m., +temperature 165 degrees in the sun out of the wind; very hot indeed and +wind north-east; dead calm at 6 p.m.; temperature 100 degrees; sun +overcast; temperature at sunset thermometer exposed to sun and wind 90 +degrees. + +Friday, December 13. + +Dead calm at sunrise; temperature 64 degrees; at 7 a.m. wind north-east +temperature 102 degrees; at 9.15 wind north temperature 150 degrees in +the sun and out of the wind; at 10.30 temperature 158 degrees; at noon +hot; wind west; temperature 138 degrees; sunset light breeze from +south-west; temperature 95 degrees. + +Saturday, December 14. + +Started at 7.45 a.m.; crossed sandhills and timbered flat and creek +running north about 200 yards wide; passed end of very stunted box-tree +flat running parallel to our course and camped on creek with little +water. + +Sunday, December 15. + +Started at 8.8 a.m.; passed through long dry grass with scrubby box; then +flooded box flats to Paul Cooroogannie and reached depot at 6.5 p.m. It +blew quite a gale of wind during the day from south-south-west with dust +and a few drops of rain. + +Monday, December 16. + +Wind changed to east (strong); temperature at 7 a.m. 65 degrees; wind +moderated during the day. Making ready to start tomorrow. + +Tuesday, December 17. + +Deposited memos to Chief Commissioner of Crown Lands and finders of +deposits under a tree here marked MK (conjoined) from Oct. 20 to Dec. 17, +1861. Dig arrow at 1 o'clock. Bullock dray started at 8.30 a.m., eight +bullocks in team and three loose; crossed north end of swamp; then small +sandhills; then creek or watercourse cutting my course at rightangles; +passed south end of considerable-sized flooded flat, connected by +last-named watercourse. Pole of cart just broken. Left cart and proceeded +with some of party to Goonyanie Creek. Great difficulty in getting a +suitable stick for the pole; sent Mr. Hodgkinson and Palmer with the +bullocks back to our late camp on Coodygodyannie to get a pole there if +possible; left bullocks there for the night. They returned unsuccessful. +Hunted Goonyanie Creek up and down myself with but indifferent result, +but must cut one such as is to be found and make shift with it till a +better can be procured. A great number of natives here; the creek +northward ceases one quarter mile from this and loses itself on a +polygonum plain--no doubt forms again. South of this it continues for +about one and a half to two miles and is lost on flooded flat. There +appears to be a great quantity of fish here; some very fine ones being +caught this afternoon, one of which must have weighed from four to five +pounds (a perch). Although the water here is very much reduced since I +was here about the middle of October the water in two holes is yet pretty +deep; no great quantity of grass here. + +Wednesday, December 18. + +Natives walking about greater part of last night. Two of them came into +camp, one of whom was known and allowed to remain; the other (a stranger) +was started at once. At their camp, which was about one hundred yards +off, they kicked up a great row for a long time. Started Mr. Hodgkinson +with Palmer and a native to Lake Coodygodyannie for the bullocks, and +Davis and Wylde out to the broken cart (about three miles off) with +water, on two camels, for the party left in charge of it, namely Kirby +and Maitland, today increased by Wylde on account of so many natives. The +bullocks duly arrived during the day, having gone back to the old camp. +Immediately proceeded to cut such a pole as was to be had here, and took +it out to the dray to be got in readiness to suit as well as possible the +purpose required, and returned to camp with the bullocks. + +Thursday, December 19. + +During the night a native dog came up to the sheepfold and was shot by +Frank (a native). The natives, encamped a short distance from here, +hearing the report of the gun, immediately took to flight and with them +the native Bullingani who was of so much use to me; however another is +easily got. Some of them returned in the morning. Temperature during +afternoon in sun 145 degrees. Was unable to get dray ready early enough +to go a stage, but brought it in here in the afternoon, ready for an +early start tomorrow morning. + +Friday, December 20. + +Marked a tree on north bank MK (conjoined), Dec. 17, 18, 19, 1861. +Temperature at sunrise 78 degrees. Sky completely overcast. Found Frank +asleep on duty and reprimanded him, when he became saucy and sulky and +determined to return to settled districts. Settled with him to date. He +was twelve weeks with us and received an order for 6 pounds, being the +amount due to him at the rate of ten shillings per week. Started and +passed through flats till we came to a creek where we stopped for a short +time; crossed creek to the margin of a lake bed containing some water. +Went north some distance to get round the lake to where the creek is dry. +This creek fills this lake--Goonaidrangannie. Camped on north-east end at +1 p.m. There are a great number of natives here; the water appears very +deep. Mr. Hodgkinson swam out about 300 yards with a plumb-line and found +the depth 10 1/4 feet; but further south and east it is much deeper. This +lake must be at times a great rendezvous for natives in extreme drought. +One of our best working bullocks, before he came ten miles, was killed by +the heat although, after getting to camp at 1 p.m., the thermometer was +tried and the greatest heat arrived at was 144 degrees. I was not aware +that the bullock was dead until the arrival of the cart later in the +afternoon. The driver, seeing he was much exhausted, had him and the one +and the one yoked with him turned out of the team, and went on a short +distance and sent back for them, however, shortly after, when the animal +was found quite dead--consequently we were unable to secure any of him +for food as it would not keep; but at daylight in the morning I will send +for his hide as it will be much needed. He will be a serious loss to us +out in such a country where we require a spare bullock to spell another +occasionally. A good deal of thunder and great indications for rain, but +blows off with only a few drops; quite a hot wind and altogether has been +a very disagreeable day. Wind from north. + +Saturday, December 21. + +Started three men out to skin the bullock and bring in the hide. Wind +south; sky overcast but hardly expect rain. Tree marked MK (conjoined), +20-12-61 on south side. The men returned with the hide at 8.10 a.m. The +bullocks, after their distress of yesterday, were left unhobbled and have +strayed to some distance, not having come up yet at this hour--8.10 a.m. +Bullocks arrived, and we started at 10.20 a.m. Camels and horses started +at 12 o'clock. Came through some splendid feed to another lake containing +but very little water and that quite bitter. Start for Moolionboorrana at +3 p.m., and arrived there at 5.53 p.m. Distance about twelve and a half +miles; first half distance was flooded flats and sand-ridges. On our way +to Thoorabiengannie at four and a half miles made the bed of a dry lake, +Tiedhenpa, with splendid feed and park-like appearance of considerable +extent. The remaining part of the distance was alternate low sandy hills +and flooded narrow flats. Camels and horses arrived at Lake +Moolionboorrana camp on north-east side of creek at 3.30 p.m. Distance +about eleven miles. Exceedingly scant of timber. The cart and sheep not +having got to camp, started Bell and Wylde with three horses back to +ascertain the cause of detention, and take food for the men if they were +unable to bring the dray during the evening; but it became so dark that +they could not retrace the tracks of their horses. At 10 p.m. returned to +camp without having seen or heard anything of cart or sheep. Will start +off again at daylight. A number of natives round the lake. Innumerable +pelicans, and numbers of ducks, gulls, waders, cormorants, fish, and +pigeons, and abundance of green grass; but no shade or protection from +the extreme heat of the sun. Rain has fallen here some short time since, +small quantities being still in the claypans; and from the cloudy +appearance of the sky with thunder to the north I fancy it has fallen +heavily in that quarter. + +Sunday, December 22. + +At daylight sent Mr. Hodgkinson, Bell, and a native with four horses to +cart, to know cause of detention, etc. Unfortunately the thermometer got +broken yesterday which will prevent in future our ascertaining the +temperature of the interior, which is much to be regretted as no doubt it +would interest many. Wind south. Bullock cart got to camp at 8.20 a.m. +having had an upset. Nothing particularly wrong with it. Sheep all right. +Will spell today to recruit bullocks and men that were with them, all +having had to be on watch during the night as the natives were round and +about them the whole time--for what purpose they did not know. At 8.30 +wind chopped round to north-north-east and very warm. This lake is +circular and almost without timber; but is a fine sheet of water and will +stand the weather well. There is a great deal of soda in it. It is about +two and a half to three miles long from north to south and about two +miles from east to west; the creek that supplies it (filling it from +north-west end) coming from north. The bullocks are so jaded with the +heat of the past two days and the heavy nature of the ground that they +have hardly left the water during the day without being driven; they even +went so far as to go out and lie down in it for hours. + +Monday, December 23. + +Wind north-north-east; sky very much overcast to southward and round by +west to north. Bullocks started at 7.40 a.m. I started with native at the +same time and reached the Creek Gadhungoonie, with a considerable +quantity of water and fully half a mile in length; but so thoroughly +bitter and salty that it was quite unfit for man or beast. Must now start +out to another creek some distance off (by report) although I meant to +give the bullocks a short day of it. Spelled till the camels came up and +started on to Abberanginnie Lake Creek, or rather I believe, +Watthiegurtie Creek, which is the creek that fills the lake--the latter +being now dry. Came over some seven and a half miles of country to +Watthiegurtie, which is also salt and bitter, and started then for +Caunboogonannie. At 2 p.m. passed in my way two salt lakes to the south +with salt-water in them, respectively named Anodhampa and Thoorpalinnie; +passed also to north a recently dried up lake named Gnooloomacannie, well +timbered round its shores, with abundance of grass all over it. Arrived +at this splendid lake (Caunboogonannie) at 3.55 p.m. Splendid water and +feed. This lake also is nearly circular and about two and a half to three +miles in diameter. This lake I have called Jeannie after a young lady +acquaintance--Miss Pile of Gawler. The cart could not get further than +the last bitter water we passed today. Immediately south of that is the +dry bed of Lake Uilgobarrannie, and immediately on the north-west side of +that lake is the dry bed of Lake Caunmarriegoteinnie. This little creek, +flowing nearly south, fills Abberingannie Lake, now nearly dry, and Lakes +Anodhampa and Thoorpalinnie--both at present with water but unfit for +use; plenty of good feed round all. + +Tuesday, December 24. + +At daylight sent Mr. Hodgkinson to the cart with a packhorse and two +canteens of water, and to point out a more firm place for the cart to +cross Watthiegurtie Creek than where we crossed the camels and horses, it +being very boggy. A vast number of natives here, and upon the whole about +the finest race I have seen in the colonies, and at present apparently +friendly. Any quantity of fish and hundreds of pelicans. This country is +fit for any description of stock and, with anything like a moderate +supply of rain, would be most excellent country; even as it is it is not +equalled to the southward as far as Kanyaka, Mr. Phillip's station near +Mount Brown. Mr. Hodgkinson found a better crossing for the cart a little +north, and it arrived here in safety at 12.30 p.m.--they found a little +drinkable water last night. Kirby, with the sheep, got astray today but +was soon picked up again and brought to camp about sunset by Wylde and +Bell. + +Wednesday, December 25. + +Christmas Day; wind variable, principally from the south, but warm. +Natives were prowling in numbers about our camp late last night. I sent +up a rocket that exploded well and had the desired effect, causing a +general rush of the whole of the sable gentry towards their camp, which +latter in their fear did not check their mad career until they found +there was no pursuit; but today they again came up to our camp quite +unconcerned as if nothing had happened--better it should be so as no +doubt I shall find them of great use in pointing out the principal waters +within their knowledge. Spelling to recruit everybody and everything, and +hope to make a good start tomorrow morning. Had an excellent dinner of +roast mutton and plum pudding and did not envy anyone in the City of +Adelaide. + +Thursday, December 26. + +MK (conjoined), Decr. 23, 24, 25. Dig. Arrow at 7 o'clock. Documents +deposited for relief party under tree marked as above. Wind strong +south-south-east. All the animals right this morning; started the +bullocks and sheep at 7.45, rounding the north end of lake--my course is +right through it bearing 89 degrees for Lake Dhalinnie. At two and a half +miles came to creek that falls into this one we are now encamped on; go +up it half a mile north-east to cross it; sent the cart round by the +creek to be on level ground whilst I go direct to Dhalinnie. At four and +a half miles clear the lake, and at three and a half miles further arrive +at the Lake Dhalinnie--a treeless lake, fully a mile from north to south +and little better than half a mile from east to west. Appam Barra from +this bears 4 degrees, Cannboogonanni camp 269 degrees. Started at 10.11 +a.m. to meet the cart on a bearing of about 330 degrees to take them to +Appam Barra; meet the camp 10.30 and go on a bearing of 6 1/2 degrees for +Appam Barra at 10.40. After spelling ten minutes crossed creek at 11.53; +at 12.10 got to Appam Barra Creek, well filled with water, going +north-north-west from north-north-east, then round to south-south-east +and south, in the distance filling a few lakes in its course on coming +from the first quarter--a considerable number of natives here. Went on +the north-north-east course one and a quarter miles on bearing of 8 +degrees; camped immediately beyond where a branch leaves the main creek +going southward--a good-sized creek about, at its junction, seventy yards +wide and fifteen feet deep; main creek about one hundred yards wide and +twenty to twenty-five feet deep; lots of mussels, crayfish, and fish of +all sorts. No great abundance of feed here nor is the country so good as +has been passed, having a very desert and sterile appearance with a +jumble of sandhills, flooded land, and a considerable quantity of +samphire bushes, large saltbush, polygonum, and other shrubs. The natives +(a fine body of men) whether from curiosity or otherwise, were with much +difficulty got away from the camp at night. + +Friday, December 27. + +Wind north-east; the animals went straying some considerable distance and +were late in being recovered (4.30 p.m.) having gone back to last camp, +therefore we did not get a start today. Half of the horses broke and lost +their hobbles; and the loss of chains is serious as they cannot be +replaced here. + +Saturday, December 28. + +Not a breath of wind at daylight. Distributed yesterday to natives +(fifty-three) necklaces, etc.; there was a considerable number more men +present in the morning but they had gone somewhere before the +distribution. They are a splendid lot of people and in most excellent +condition, much better than the appearance of the country here would +warrant. They appear friendly but were about during last night. A large +flight of galahs just passing. Gulls, pigeons, and ducks of all sorts +abound. It was my intention to have taken the cart round to examine the +lakes and creeks east and south of my present position; but as the +sandhills are rather large and steep I will do it with the camels and +horses, and merely today take the cart to a better place for camping +during the time I am engaged at this work, and more on the course I wish +to follow after this part of the work is finished. Marked tree at camp MK +(conjoined), 26, 27-12-61. Horses, bullocks, camels, sheep all right, +although dropped a lame ewe heavy in lamb last night which has not yet +been recovered. Started at 7.30 and went round northward one mile and +crossed creek at four miles; got to a pretty little lake Wattiwidulo. +Abundance of good feed and water; natives round the lake; but on going +about half mile to top of a small sandhill I then had opened to my view +an extensive basin of water forming part of the lake continuing far off +to south-west by south. A splendid sheet of water which I have named Lake +Hodgkinson after my second in command. Course today 338 degrees. +Immediately on arrival here was completely besieged by the natives, male +and female, young and old, for beads for necklaces which I distributed as +far as they went, but it has much reduced my supply and leaves but a +scanty remnant for the next lot we meet, as meet them we surely will in +such a country as this, affording them as it does such a supply of food. +I will proceed with a couple of camels and some horses to the eastward a +short distance to examine some lakes and creeks reported to be in that +quarter, and will leave the remainder of the party in camp here till my +return. The country travelled over today though a short distance was very +good--plenty of grass on the sandhills of a good sort. Although that +veteran explorer Sturt must have passed not far from this in his last +attempt to gain the centre of the continent he reported to have only +fallen in with, or had reason to believe, there were but few natives. How +the large body of people that is scattered all over this part could have +escaped him I cannot account for. Go where you will you will find them in +groups of fifties and hundreds, and often many more, and generally a +jolly lot of fellows and all in capital condition. As has been noticed by +former explorers the females in number amongst the children are much +greater than the males, but neither very numerous. Amongst the adults +(both sexes) they knock out the four front teeth of the upper jaw; but +there are others both male and female that are quite perfect, more here +than noticed anywhere else on the journey. Killed a sheep on arrival here +today to jerk for our coming journey to the east, but was so fat that the +small flock had to be examined for a poorer one for that purpose. That +does not speak badly of the part of the country we are now in. + +Sunday, December 29. + +Camp at Wattiwidulo, or Lake Hodgkinson. Just where we are encamped by it +it does not appear to be deep, but to the south and west I fancy there is +a good deal of water. Wind south-west and exceedingly hot and sultry. In +the afternoon an old man arrived here from our old depot and reported +that a party of whites had arrived at the late depot with a number of +horses and were on their way this course from the settled districts. What +faith to put in the report it is difficult to say. Ready to start east in +the morning. + +Monday, December 30. + +Sky very much overcast and very sultry; wind from north-east. Started at +8.10 with two camels and five horses and a week's provisions. At four and +a half miles got to Appambarra, near old camp at the dray crossing. At +8.45 arrived at about one mile west of dry lake Toondowlowannie; centre +bearing of lake north and south, three miles, by a width east and west of +one and a half miles; well grassed. At ten and a quarter miles passed +south end of lake and travelled on flooded ground on west side of +Cariderro Creek, in which there is water, to where we cut the Cariderro +Creek, about sixteen miles, at a place in the creek where the large creek +branches off east and fills a large lake now dry; abundance of feed. Lake +called Marcourgannie and found water in creek--a short distance south, +from which quarter it appears to come--it is a splendid gum creek, from +eighty to one hundred yards wide and fifteen to twenty feet deep, and +flows a northward course. Started after spelling a time and went one and +a quarter miles on bearing of 239 degrees to Appadarannie, now a dry lake +with abundance of good feed in its bed; then went south by east eight +miles along the Cariderro Creek. It is a splendid one and well lined with +fine gumtrees, and as far as we went I may say was one continuous sheet +of water, and with not less than from 200 to 300 natives. I have named it +Browne Creek after W.H. Browne, Esquire. Many of the natives have +apparently quite white hair and beards; they were particularly anxious +that we should encamp with them; they were the first tribe that we fell +in with so fully armed, every man with a shield and a lot of boomerangs +and some with spears. I thought it better not to camp there as they had a +good deal of sneaking and concealing themselves from bush to bush, and +might have brought about a disturbance, which I did not desire. Took some +water in air bags and started out from the creek one and a quarter miles; +then on a bearing of 5 degrees for Appacalradillie lake, seven miles +fully. Crossed and camped on east corner of dry lake Marcourgannie, and +on the margin of the dry lake Merradaboodaboo; the bulk of this last lake +bearing north from this and splendidly grassed. + +Tuesday, December 31. + +Started at 6.30 a.m. to Appacalradillie lake, through side of Lake +Merradaboodaboo; passed several flooded flats proceeding east from +last-named dry lake--the first of which was an extensive one, passing on +our course from left round to the right and apparently round to south as +far as visible, then over alternate and indifferent flats and large +sandhills--a considerable deal of flooded land to the westward. At +fifteen miles arrived on top of a very prominent sandhill which I have +named Mount MacDonnell, from which hill opens out to our view two +beautiful lakes which, in honour of her Ladyship and His Excellency the +present Governor of South Australia, I have named respectively Lake +Blanche and Lake Sir Richard, separated by a small sandy rise through +which passes a small channel that connects them, and which I have named +New Year's Straits. + +Wednesday, January 1, 1862. + +Started at 6.45 round the first lake, Blanche (Lady MacDonnell) to where +the creek passes through a low sandhill and connects it with the other +lake, Sir Richard (His Excellency the Governor). The first-named of these +lakes is, where it was tried, between five and six feet deep and seven +and three-quarter miles in circumference, nearly circular, bare of +timber, and tens of thousands of pelicans on it, one solitary swan, with +innumerable other birds, gulls and ducks of various kinds (one new and +one dark brown large-winged), cormorants, avocats, white spoonbills, +crows, kites, pigeons and magpies of various kinds, and plenty of fish. +The other lake immediately adjoins and its south-east end is more to the +eastward than Lake Blanche, it is nearly circular and is six and +three-quarter miles in circumference, but when casually tried was not +quite five feet deep; pelicans, birds of kinds, fish, etc., as the other. +Between forty and fifty men (natives) came to meet us as we were passing +round the lakes at the creek, which they had all to swim and, from the +appearance of the camp some short distance off, there could not have been +less than about 150, all apparently friendly. Started from north-west end +of Lake Sir Richard and went along the course of the creek that fills +these lakes on a bearing of 305 degrees for ---- miles; then +south-south-west half a mile to a fine basin of water in the valley of +the creek, three-quarters of a mile wide and more than that in length, +and opening again and contracting alternately up to Lake Blanche which, +in honour of the veteran explorer, I have named Sturt's Ponds; abundance +of fish and fowls. From this point course 308 degrees up the creek for +four miles; at two miles a creek went off to the right through a flooded +flat, thence on a course varying from 224 to 239 degrees, principally +through what was recently a large lake--now a splendidly-grassed plain of +vast extent, and at the latter part a few small sandhills. Distance today +thirty-six miles. + +Thursday, January 2. + +At camp and keeping the New Year instead of yesterday. It is quite a +treat to sit on the banks of this fine sheet of water and look at the +innumerable waterfowl on its surface chasing their prey. + +Friday, January 3. + +Heavy dew. Started out this morning with two camels and five horses to +examine some lakes and creeks to west and south of this position; I take +with me Mr. Hodgkinson, Middleton, Wylde, and native. On my return intend +moving camp to north and east to where I saw the creek bearing off to the +right or north-east from about two miles north-west of Sturt's Ponds; +which creek I am led to believe runs off into the interior by north on +the round by west and south, passing my old depot, Lake Buchanan. On +second thoughts I have moved camp to a better place on this lake, north, +on the opposite side, where there is better shade, and the glare of the +sun less injurious to the eyes of the party than here. Marked tree MK +(conjoined) from 28-12-61, to 3-1-62, and started to examine the lakes +reported to be south and west. At six miles arrived on opposite side of +where we camped for the last few days, and estimate its circumference at +fifteen to sixteen miles, its greatest breadth two miles, its least about +600 yards--at a promontory that runs into it from the south-east side. A +large creek fills it from south-east, about two and a half to three miles +west-south-west from our New Year camp which I have named Hayward, after +Frederick Hayward, Esquire, of Aroona, South Australia--a deep swimmable +creek, well timbered, plenty of fish and fowls--then went southward to +Lake Wattygaroony, a fine deep lake which is named Lake Strangways after +the Honourable the Commissioner of Crown Lands. The creek that fills it +from the south and east I have called the Alfred. The lake is quite nine +miles in circumference; scant of timber; from the creek round south-west +end and side; abundance of feed, etc., from north side of lake and one +mile north-westerly of clearing it; our new camp on Lake Hodgkinson bears +71 degrees. About eight miles; returned to camp same day. + +Saturday, January 4. + +Camp, Lake Hodgkinson. Shoeing horses, repairing pack-bags, etc. + +Sunday, January 5. + +I, with Poole and a black, went out north to see what the country was +like. On bearing 360 degrees over sandhills arrived at and found lake +dry; four and a half miles of stones around it, same as in stony desert; +went through the middle of it, it sweeps round from north-east to +south-west; passed through it where it was two miles broad, it is fed +from Lake Goonalcarae (now dry); the lake passed through has not had a +supply of water for years apparently; lots of dead mussels and crayfish +in its bed. At two and a half miles further (nine miles in all) over +sandhills, changed course to 16 degrees for a large sandhill in the +distance, the country to the north being rather low. At two and a half +miles on this course came upon a succession of flooded basins, some of +great extent, Gnatowullie, and slightly lined with stunted box, some as +high up the sides of the sandhills as forty-five to fifty feet, entirely +supplied by the rains but have not had a supply for some time, as there +was neither water nor vegetation; which flooded basins continued till I +went nine miles on this last course and from the top of the hill could +distinctly see the beds of innumerable others of the same kind. From west +round to north-east and east some dark-peaked sandhills, north-east of +last course, as far as I could discern with the aid of a glass; turned +back on course of 200 degrees to where I saw some shady box trees about +two and a half miles, and turned out horses to rest and went to camp +direct. On bearing of 187 degrees at five and a half miles came to the +watercourse that supplies the dry lake Marroboothana from Goonalcarae, +which I have named the Ellar, and the creek that fills it, in which there +is at present water, Ellar's Creek. + + +Monday, January 6. + +Marked tree MK (conjoined), from 3 to 6-62, Dig arrow at 7 o'clock, and +deposited a document in tin envelope for the search parties from the +north coast. Started at 6.30 with the bullock-cart, the horses and camels +following, for Lakes Lady Blanche and Sir Richard, for the purpose of +following the creek I observed when there the other day, and which the +natives inform me goes northward, then westward and southward, through +the stony desert. Arrived about 3.30 by rather a circuitous route to the +northward of our proper course, but was guided that way to avoid many +heavy sandhills. Distance between twenty-two and twenty-three miles. + +Tuesday, January 7. + +At Lake Blanche; went out north with Mr. Hodgkinson and native to examine +the creek alluded to, but to my disappointment found that it only formed +a large valley and, at some distance on a dry lake, Millie Millie, to the +eastward of Lake Sir Richard, over some high sandhills; returned very +much chagrined and have made up my mind to stay here a short time, +although very poor shelter from the excessive heat of the sun (today even +it blows as if from a furnace) and endeavour with the camels to ascertain +the description of country first to the east, and probably also from +here, if the camels will stand it, to the north; from the appearance of +the country about here I do not expect any water at least for some +distance; the land low, hills between the two lakes and running northward +for some five or six miles have just the appearance of dirty drift snow +heaps with heath bushes protruding; whereas those round to north-east, +east, south, and south-east are a glaring red, with coarse grass and +shrubs. Shortly after my return today a number of natives got the +bullocks on the east side of the creek New Year Straits, about two and a +half miles from camp and raced them round Lake Blanche from us in sight; +on seeing which five of the party got mounted and armed and went after +them; they had taken the bullocks two-thirds of the way round the lake +and by some means they broke back from them; they did their best to +overtake and turn them again for about two or three miles; when they +observed the horsemen they immediately took to flight, and where shelter +was so abundant, of course, were immediately out of reach and sight of +the horsemen. What their intentions were was difficult to say but it +looked rather suspicious; took the bullocks to camp late and hobbled most +of them. The evening before leaving Lake Hodgkinson, about 8.30 p.m., +they took both horses and bullocks and raced them round from us for about +three miles but were pursued on foot by three of the party who succeeded +in getting all the bullocks and horses after having broken three-fourths +of their chains, and were in a very excited state, nor could the horses +be quieted for more than two hours afterwards, but the wary savage was +nowhere to be seen. + +Wednesday, January 8. + +Moved camp about three-quarters of a mile to a little wood and camped. +Fearfully hot, wind east-north-east. + +Thursday, January 9. + +Camp, Lake Blanche, between the two lakes, where one would imagine the +breeze from such a body of water would render the air cool, but the heat +is almost intolerable. Wind from east-north-east to east-south-east blew +quite a gale in the night, levelling tents, etc., to the earth, +accompanied with a good deal of thunder and lightning and slight spitting +of rain for a few minutes, when it ceased. The gale kept on for two and a +half hours and gradually died away. + +Friday, January 10. + +Camp, Lake Blanche. One would suppose that after so much thunder and +lightning the air would be more pure and cool, but nothing of the kind +was apparent, nothing but intense heat, prostrating all the animals. +Horses and sheep taking refuge from the intense rays of the sun round and +under such bushes or trees they could get till the cool of the evening. +Wind light easterly. I sincerely wish we had a change of the weather, +warmer it cannot get, so that the change must be for the better, and +enable us to be doing something. This is far from the most agreeable +position for a camp for, although we have any quantity of water, we have +no shade, and the glare reflected from the low light-coloured sandhills +and flats is very trying to the eyes; even the natives who are a numerous +body here (150 to 200) scarcely stir out, except morning and evening for +fishing, fish being their chief sustenance with addo, Burke's nardoo. + +Saturday, January 11. + +Sun rose red as a ball of fire. We had a magnificent sunset last night; +wind chopping all round the compass; intense heat; fleecy clouds. + +Sunday, January 12. + +Camp, Lake Blanche. Before daylight a considerable deal of thunder and +lightning. Squally but passed off without any rain. Cloudy during the +day. Wind from all quarters, heat intense, and sultry towards evening, +threatened much for rain; wind from east to north-east, accompanied with +thunder and lightning. I sincerely trust that we may have a good fall of +it, if it comes at all. Rain all blew past and wind chopping in all +directions. + +Monday, January 13. + +Wind from all quarters but rather more cool than for the last few days. +If nothing particular occurs before tomorrow morning will make a start +out eastward for fifty or sixty miles to see what sort of country it is, +and if there is any main creek running north up through it. It is very +calm towards evening with heavy clouds all round the horizon. + +Tuesday, January 14. + +Eastward today over undulations, sandhills, claypans, and flats for +nineteen miles till we reached a very prominent high hill which I have +called Mount Wylde. A considerable range is visible to east and south of +east. Went on for seven miles further over sand ridges covered with +spinifex, successive box-covered flooded flats, formed by heavy rains, +through which were innumerable small creeks no doubt in heavy rains +forming source or tributaries to Cooper's Creek. Took the horses out this +morning to make the work lighter for the camels on the march. Sent the +horses back again this afternoon; gave the camels from three to four +gallons of water each--they appeared as if they could have drunk all that +we possessed. Distance travelled today about twenty-six miles. East in +the far distance I can trace the continuance of the range. + +Wednesday, January 15. + +Every appearance of a hot day. Followed over hard sand undulations, +well-grassed with some little spinifex intermixed, with a creek on our +left, and crossed it at eight miles going south-east then apparently +south--gum and box on creek and a sandy bed. We then passed over some +good grassed country with stony flats and latterly a stony sandhill, the +ascent difficult for the camels on account of the sharp stones for ten +miles; distance making in all eighteen miles. Low hills about six or +seven miles ahead running north and south; nothing very marked about +them. The heat fearful; camels not doing so well as I could wish so will +give them all the water that is to spare and proceed towards camp this +evening in the cool--they won't feed nor stay without constant watching. +Started back at 8.30 p.m. Went first to the south of west to avoid a +stony hill by going round a valley then went on for about fifteen miles. + +Thursday, January 16. + +Started at 6 a.m., then bore for Mount Wylde. The greater portion of last +night's and today's journey was over spinifex country. Passed immediately +after starting a couple of creeks, drainage to the north--whether they +continued that course and gradually swerved to the east and joined a +larger one under the main range to east and formed one and passed on to +the southward to Cooper's Creek, or formed rainwater lakes (vast numbers +of them here and well timbered and often visited by natives) I cannot +pretend to say. From Mount Wylde came in on the lakes on our outward +track and arrived at camp at 2 p.m. Found some of the party, namely Bell, +Davis, and Maitland, laid up with dysentery, the former seriously. Have +made up my mind to leave this after one day's spell for the camels and go +back to different water, as this must contain some medicinal properties +that I am ignorant of, and affects all of us more or less; no doubt the +weather has a good deal to do with it--the heat is fearful. + +Friday, January 17. + +Wind east by north. If nothing particular occurs will start from this in +the morning as I see nothing can be done here but going north for some +distance, and that I can do from where I proceed tomorrow as well as from +here, and with better water for the party. Excessively hot and sultry +today and very cloudy. We have more or less lightning every day or night +and it appears occasionally to be raining all round us but never gives us +a benefit. Blew strong from south-east all night. Marked tree MK +(conjoined), fm. 6 to 18-1-62. + +Saturday, January 18. + +Wind from south-east. Bell very little improved, the rest much better. +Bullocks up and yoked before sunrise. It appears to be gathering all +round for rain but as usual I suppose will pass off without our being +favoured with any. The natives lately have hardly ever visited the camp; +I suppose their curiosity was satiated after the first few days, and when +they found they could not drive off the animals without being heard or +observed, and the probable consequences, they thought proper to keep +aloof. Start this morning for Goonalcarae Creek, or Ellar's Creek, where +there is abundance of fine feed, water, and protection from the excessive +heat of the sun. Bullocks start at 7 a.m.; passed on our right the +recently-dried bed of a very nice lake, and so deceptive was it from its +appearance some distance off that even the natives insisted that there +was still water in it, but there was not any. The lake I have called +Deception--it is a nice lake and retains water for a very long time. I +pushed on through the flooded and well-grassed bed of Goonalcarae, or +Ellar's Swamp. First went on a westerly course then on a southerly to the +creek, but did not admire the water which was neither abundant nor sweet, +although there were innumerable birds and some natives there. Went on to +Lake Hodgkinson and was astonished to find it so much dried up in only +twelve days, that being the time since we left it, and the water now +quite bitter; then went on to Hayward's Creek that fills Lake Hodgkinson, +and there found abundance of everything that we required--feed, water, +wood, and shelter from the broiling sun. The dray did not get this length +but camped on east end of lake, and obtaining for their use water, by +digging, at four feet from the surface, good and clear; the cart will +come on here in the morning and I shall remain here till there is a +change in the weather as it is fearfully trying; there has been a shower +on our course since we passed on our way to Lakes Blanche and Sir +Richard, but nothing of any consequence. The horses were more done up +today than I have yet seen them from the oppressive heat. + +Sunday, January 19. + +Dray came in about noon; a considerable number of natives here on creek. + +Monday, January 20. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek; wind very strong from north-east to south-east. + +Tuesday, January 21. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek; wind chopping all round; heavy rain apparently to +the north and north-east, but little of it came this way; gave the native +who has been with us so long an old ewe to distribute amongst his +friends. + +Wednesday, January 22. + +At daylight a Scotch mist from south; by 7 a.m. it came on a steady rain +and lasted till 8.15 a.m., when it cleared off, still appearing to rain +to north-east and west of this. Clear to the south with the wind from +latter quarter; during remainder of the day weather cleared up in all +quarters with a south wind, although a good many clouds are flying about. +Went round the lake to see what quantity of water was likely to be in the +claypans where it fell the heaviest yesterday; there is not so much as I +expected but still I will start out north tomorrow to ascertain the +nature of the country and see if there be any watercourse in that +direction that may hereafter be of use to parties wishing to pass to the +north coast; but from what I saw to the east, and the country between +that and this, I have very little hope of anything of the kind, but +believe there is a creek to the westward of this that either comes from +or goes to a latitude beyond and east of Sturt's furthest. + +Thursday, January 23. + +Started out at 11.30 a.m.; got to the top of a sandhill on north side of +Lake Hodgkinson about six miles from camp; camp bearing about 175 +degrees; passed (dry) Lake Marraboothana; then through flats and basins, +a large one cutting our course. Changed course and came to a dry creek +called Pantyhwurladgie; then on a bearing of 284 degrees over stony +desert for a large sandhill; a little water back about two miles from +whence we shall have to send for it amongst the stones. Total distance +travelled about thirty-three miles; to the north-east and south all +stones, but sandhills bound the two latter quarters; beyond the +termination of large sandhill there is nothing visible. To the west is a +succession of sandhills running north and south, and terminating in +desert and stony plains. Round to 348 degrees; in the distance are to be +seen some terminations of inconsiderable sandhills. + +Friday, January 24. + +The country being short of water I merely go out today to return +tomorrow; leaving here all the rations I intended for the journey +northward, which for the present I had abandoned with the intention at a +more suitable time to try it. Natives are with me but they declare it to +be all dry; but I cannot rely on their statements at all times. The +water, our supply for today, is about two miles off in the desert; our +journey being over a succession of very high sandhills and stony flooded +flats; skirting, for the first three-quarters of an hour, the desert to +this spot, with a large red-topped sandhill on our right which terminates +close by; have not seen a drop of water during the day and camp without +it. I return tomorrow early for the last water which will be nearly dried +up by the time I reach it. Distance travelled today twenty-four miles. +Tops of all the hills to north-east and east are very red, quite free +from vegetation on tops and some with spinifex on their sides. To north, +termination of sandhills with stony flats; north-west, unbroken horizon; +from west-north-west round towards south-west a sandhill in the distance; +altogether a dreary spot. A heavy-timbered creek comes in from south-west +into the desert and appears in the distance to have a tributary from +east-south-east; the timber ceases as it comes on to the open desert +plain between four and five miles from this. Quite an unbroken horizon to +the west of north-west for some distance. The sandhills that are in view +are small and detached. + +Saturday, January 25. + +Started back and got to water just in time to give the horses about half +as much as they could drink and a little for ourselves; rapid evaporation +has taken place since we left yesterday, for then there was enough for +100 horses, now there is not half enough for our eight; so must make for +one of the permanent waters south of this tomorrow; have to close-hobble +our horses and tie their heads down to them to prevent them straying too +far. Strong breeze from the southward. + +Sunday, January 26. + +Started at 7 a.m. for Coonhadie, a rainwater watering-place in desert, +but found it quite dry; start for camp, Hayward's Creek, and arrived at 1 +p.m.; distance about twenty-nine and a quarter miles direct from place to +place, but we made it more, being obliged to go round to avoid sandhills +and rounding Lake Hodgkinson. The horses stood much in need of water and +seemed to enjoy it much, from quantity they drank and the time they took +about it. It was fortunate for us that the weather was cool for the +season of the year. Wind south and east; found all right at the camp and +the men that were ailing much improved. The water in the creek is +diminishing gradually, about three-quarters of an inch per day. + +Monday, January 27. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind easterly. Natives very much displeased at our +remaining here but until the weather suits my purpose better than it does +at present they must put up with it. + +Tuesday, January 28. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind east and south, very hot. Several of the +party still complaining, the cause of which is difficult to say as the +water in the creek appears good and there is plenty of it. The water in +the creek is between five and six miles long. There is a lake or swamp +rapidly drying up close by, from which there is a very disagreeable odour +when the wind is from that quarter; the ailing may proceed from the +malaria arising from that place; other waters in the immediate +neighbourhood drying up fast. Natives in a great state of excitement +today, wishing to inform me that the flood, or arimitha, was coming down +and that we must get out of this or we should be drowned (I only wish it +would come) stating that it had now reached as far as a place I know +well, so tomorrow will make it my business to ride over that length to +the south and east to Browne's Creek to ascertain the truth or otherwise +of this information. + +Wednesday, January 29. + +Wind north and east. Started with Middleton to ascertain if the flood is +really coming down or not; followed this creek round my way and was quite +astonished at the number of natives I saw--they must have been +considerably over three hundred--and I am satisfied that I did not see +them all as I did not go quite up to their camp; we had no conception +that there were any such numbers so close to us, a distance of only some +six or seven miles. There are myriads of fish of various kinds. There was +a camp close by till yesterday, within less than half a mile, but I never +saw more than one hundred in it at one time--averaging from forty to +sixty. They pass our camp with their nets to drag the creek between this +and the lake, and come back loaded with the denizens of the creek; they +are not at all liberal with them. I should be sorry to trust to their +hospitality or generosity as I think they possess but little of either of +those qualities. Arrived at Browne's Creek, at the place named by natives +for the arrival of the flood, but found their tale false--they saw me on +my way there and I suppose knew my errand--some of shallowest waters in +the upper holes of the creek had dried up since I saw them last but there +is abundance lower down. + +Thursday, January 30. + +Wind east. Camp, Hayward's Creek. Natives kept much aloof today, I +suppose in consequence of my finding their piece of gratuitous +information false. Self and all the party affected with griping and +vomiting with the exception of Middleton and Davis. Cannot make out the +cause; I wish it would rain that I could start through the desert out of +this and get on to the waters to north and west of this, and be doing +something, as this sort of life is worse than hard work on the +constitution. There is one thing, this detention here has enabled us to +have the backs of the working animals attended to better than we could +otherwise have done, and they are all on splendid feed, but the flies and +excessive heat of the sun is very much against the healing of any kind of +sores or wounds. I had occasion to bleed several of the horses and, from +the mere incision caused by the fleam, the necks of several swelled up +very much although every precaution was adopted. + +Friday, January 31. + +Started out to pick an easy track for the cart towards Moolianbrooana +Lake; found a pretty good one on to the old cart tracks which will do; +went then to ascertain how the waters were standing in Caunboogonannie, +or Lake Jeannie, and found that, although there was still a very +considerable quantity in the lake from the vast number of waterfowl upon +it, and perhaps other causes, it had acquired a disagreeable taste, and I +have no doubt that it will get quite unfit for use in a month or so if it +does not receive a fresh supply during that time. From a hole dug about +eighteen inches from the water's edge I had a drink and a pot of tea of +excellent water; lots of natives round and in the lake, although round +the margin I observed innumerable small fish (parrow) dead, washed in by +the wind and ripple of the lake. Our horses did not seem to admire the +water but that I am not astonished at. + +Saturday, February 1. + +Hayward's Creek. Wind east; party still ailing. + +Sunday, February 2. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek. Some of party better and some worse. Wind +easterly. + +Monday, February 3. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind easterly; digging a well, in case the origin +of our sickness be caused by the water in the creek. + +Tuesday, February 4. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind north and gusty with hot puffs. Got the well +down about fifteen feet; the lower part, for about seven or eight feet, +chiefly through sand; abundance of water but salt to the taste and I +think unfit for use. Had it emptied out when it soon filled; the water +continues salt and lathers well with soap and can wash well; it cannot be +used by us although the natives don't despise it. + +Wednesday, February 5. + +Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind from east and west of north during the +morning with hot gusts, very oppressive. + +Thursday, February 6. + +Camp, at Hayward's Creek. Wind north till late in the afternoon with some +thunder and lightning and a good many clouds; appears in the distance to +be raining in patches, but I have so often been deceived that I now take +less notice of appearances of that kind; late in the afternoon the wind +chopped round to south. Has been very hot and sultry all day. Intend in +the morning to send Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton to Lake Goonaidringinnie +to ascertain for certain if that lake still contains abundance of water, +and good, as I think it does--and on the way to pass and examine Lake +Moolionboorana to see if it will suit as a stage to camp at on our +journey to Goonaidringinne, as it was not very deep when I was there last +and I have my doubts about it. The natives report a considerable quantity +of rain to have fallen to the east and towards north-east in the country +north of Lakes Blanche and MacDonnell or Appacalradillie. If so I wish it +had fallen when I was there that I might have been able to have examined +the country there thoroughly. + +Friday, February 7. + +Started Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton to Lake Goonaidringinnie. Wind from +all points of compass with many clouds; weather disagreeable and sultry +during the day; rained steadily once or twice during the night with a +good deal of thunder and lightning in the distance; much rain must have +fallen to east and north of east as well as to the south. + +Saturday, February 8. + +Splendid rain and steady. Thundering all round with every appearance of a +considerable quantity of rain which will, I trust, come in such abundance +as to enable me to push to the north-west across the desert, as up to +this time I have been completely shut up, as it were, here for want of a +decent shower to enable me to do anything of service anywhere; and the +provisions gradually getting less although the ration is now as low as I +can well make it. I have reduced it first from 8 pounds of flour per man +per week to 7 pounds, then to 6 pounds, then to 4 1/2 pounds; sugar +reduced from 2 pounds per man per week to 1 1/2 pounds; and tea from 4 +ounces to 3 ounces per man per week, with plenty of good mutton; but we +find the supply of flour very scanty at the 4 1/2 pounds. There has been +a good deal of loss in weight in the bags of flour, as much as 9 pounds +per 100 pounds; and a great portion of it had a most disagreeable taste +and flavour from some naphtha, or some such liquid, having been +carelessly allowed to be spilt over it on its way, I understand, from +Port Augusta to Blanchewater; and I attribute the whole of the illness of +the party to the use of the flour saturated as it is by this rascally +stuff. In the afternoon Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton returned; they +report having seen a considerable quantity of rainwater about thirteen +miles this side of Lake Goonaidringinnie, and plenty of water in that +lake and good; also plenty of natives on its banks. Lake Moolionboorana +very much reduced and unfit for my purpose. Heavy rain all through the +night with heavy thunder and lightnings. I have now abandoned the idea of +going to Goonaidringinnie and will start towards Eyre's Creek, passing or +following, at some seventy miles from this, a large creek named by the +natives here Panbacra. + +Sunday, February 9. + +Still raining a little and the ground too soft to travel over but, if +much more does not fall, will start in the morning. The rain that has +fallen is quite a godsend, both to this party and to the natives who have +started off to the sandhills in all directions to obtain the lizards and +other animals that escape to the sandhills for protection from the +floods. + +Monday, February 10. + +Started the cart at 7.50 a.m., and horses and camels to start afterwards +for Wattiegoroonita. Passed over sandhills to top of a sandhill that +rounds the lake, and over alternate sandhills and bare flats for nine and +a half miles, passing at about six miles on the last course a small salt +lake; travelled on the north-east side of it as it was boggy. The lake is +called Warmagoladhailie. The ground very soft and heavy travelling. +Travelled along the sand ranges and over spinifex and stony flooded +flats, then over one small sandhill and stony desert. Camped at a few +bushes to boil the teakettle, there being not a blade of grass; but a few +saltbushes are near which the animals must do the best with for one +night. Astonishing the small quantity of water passed for the last eight +or nine miles. Distance travelled today twenty-four miles. The natives +are out here looking for the snakes and other small reptiles and animals +that live in the sandhills everywhere in this quarter whether hot or +cold, regardless of the want of water. This is a most dismal-looking +camp; there are a few isolated sandhills north and west of this. Cart and +sheep not up tonight. + +Tuesday, February 11. + +The cart did not arrive last night as above-mentioned for the reason that +one of the bullocks was taken with the staggers. They camped about two +and a half miles back and arrived here this morning at 5.45 a.m.; turned +the bullocks out for a time to get a drink and pick a few bushes, and +started again at 7.48. Travelled for nine miles over desert stony plains +and got to top of large sandhill. This hill is called Cannacannanthainya. +Some distance off another sandhill called Mallapoorponannie; and another +not quite so far called Cookorda. Another long leading sand range in the +distance called Goontyaerie, at the northern termination of which is at +present a dry creek known by the above name. There is a native well there +and another a little further west. To give the ailing bullock, as he is a +good one, a chance of recruiting, I have dipped down the sandhill and +camped at 11.35 a.m., and for another reason, it looks like rain. During +the afternoon several nice showers. + +Wednesday, February 12. + +Steady rain for about four hours last night and this morning breaks fine +and clear with a wind north. Plenty of water lying all over the desert. +Dray started at 7.40 a.m. and at six and three-quarter miles distant got +to Mallapoorponannie sand range, the southern end of which is called +Cookorda; about two miles off its northern end dwindles down to nothing +in the desert. To the northern end of Coontarie sand range a creek and +well by the same name; about twelve miles off a detached sand range in +the desert, at the north-west end of which are two waters named +respectively Dhooramoorco and Moongaara; also on north-east side of sand +range another water in creek called Caddryyerra, also a sand range about +four to five miles distant. There was a number of small detached +sandhills going round to the westward, then a perfect blank round to +Coontarie well. At about three to four miles struck the flooded flat from +the main creek I am now going to. At eleven and a half miles further came +to and crossed a deep creek crossing my course at rightangles. At two +miles further came to water in Daeragolie Creek, same creek that I +crossed before two miles from this; within this last two miles the whole +flat is cut up into innumerable channels most difficult to travel over, I +must therefore see and get a better road for the cart. Here there is not +a green blade of grass to be seen; there are some green shrubs in the bed +of the creek that the camels are fond of. I arrived at this camp at 2.5 +p.m.; distance travelled today twenty-three and a half miles. This is an +immense creek, timbered on its bank with box, bean, and other trees, the +water is in detached holes but good and apparently plenty of fish and +ducks. No natives seen yet although their tracks are fresh; the natives +that are with me say a number of them have taken advantage of the rain +lately fallen and gone out to the sandhills on both sides of this creek. +By native report the creek flows just here south and east, but within two +miles from this it turns quite round by south-west and west, passing +Coontarie. Neither cart nor sheep arrived in camp tonight. + +Thursday, February 13. + +The cart on its way here this morning had an upset in one of the creeks +close by but fortunately little damage done. The road it appears to me +from this on our course is much better than we have come over, if so we +shall make good speed. I spell the remainder of today refreshing the +animals. This creek is about eighty to ninety yards wide, very +precipitous banks, and from fifty to sixty feet deep, with innumerable +small creeks. About 400 yards from this, above us, a large creek leaves +this one, heavily timbered and well-defined. Limestone crops out in many +places. It is from fifty to seventy yards wide and from fifteen to thirty +feet deep. It sweeps away to the west and south, close under some +sand-ridges that are close by. Wind from south and west, very sultry. +There has been a good deal of rain here lately (and from the appearance +of the country there has been none for some time previously). Nothing +green except in the bed of the creek and the trees. The whole country +looks as if it had been carefully ploughed, harrowed, and finally rolled, +the farmer having omitted the seed. Two natives came into our camp at +dark, apparently without any fear, and stayed with us for the night. + +Friday, February 14. + +Started at 8 a.m. On the west side of the creek Panbaera a large creek +leaves it at about 400 yards from camp, and the ground heavy, with +intense heat. I camped after a journey of fifteen and a half miles on +same side of creek, close to a deep waterhole in the creek. Name of creek +Toomathooganie. Immediately above the camp on opposite side of creek a +large red sandhill comes right on to creek called Manganhoonie, from the +top of which one gets an extensive view of such country as there is, the +creek in the distance, north, it filling the valley with its timber +bearing 340 degrees. On our way here today, about three miles from camp, +passed the remains of Burke's horse and saddle; they were recognised as +his by camel dung being about the camp. No marks on any of the trees +visible. Camel dung also close to our camp. Another of our best bullocks +was obliged to be left, having been struck down with the sun as the other +was a few days ago. Cart late in arrival at camp in consequence. One of +our natives took French leave immediately after getting to camp; the +other tried hard also but was too closely watched. + +Saturday, February 15. + +Started some hands back to see if the bullock was still alive, if so and +unable to travel, to kill him and have him jerked, and if dead to have +him skinned. They brought back word that he was still alive and might get +over it. Late getting ready to start owing to the uncertainty whether the +bullock was to be jerked or not. Bullocks started at 10.35 a.m., and if I +get feed must make a short day of it. If the road keeps as heavy as it +has done since coming to this creek I shall have to abandon the cart, +which for many reasons I shall regret. Wind north and disagreeable. Got +to camp at five miles bearing 337 degrees. The heat so oppressive +travelling completely out of the question. Will leave the cart and many +sundries here. Seized with a violent attack of dysentery. Our remaining +native quite broken-hearted at losing the other, shall be obliged to let +him go this afternoon; it is a pity as he would have been of much service +in giving me the names of the different waters and places which to +someone in future might be of much use. However I may get another if I +soon meet with other natives; but unfortunately at present, from the rain +that has lately fallen, they have principally left the creek and gone to +the sandhills. Their habitations are very numerous on the creek so they +must be pretty strong in number here. Lots of fish still in the holes; +appear to be multa multa principally. We got some from the two natives at +our first camp on the creek, and lots of mussel shells about their old +fires. + +Sunday, February 16. + +In camp, very ill. + +Monday, February 17. + +In camp, very ill; still getting the gear ready for tomorrow, if I am +able to start--pain slightly gone. Had the curiosity to weigh and found I +had lost fourteen pounds in three days from the violence of the attack; +when I left town I weighed fifteen stone eleven pounds, now I weigh +exactly twelve stone. Clear but excessively hot with occasionally a +little thunder and some showers this morning, and it looked as if we were +going to have it heavy but it passed off. + +Tuesday, February 18. + +With one thing and the other, and one of the bullocks absent, was late at +starting. Pain gone today but excessively weak. Started at 11.30, course +340 degrees; flooded box-cracked land for one mile. At seven and a half +miles further passing over bare mud plain destitute of any vegetation, +with a couple of sandhills and the main creek beyond them to the east. On +this distance half a mile off is the bed of a large creek flowing to the +south and west, no water at present in it. Close to this point one of our +best bullocks was struck dead with the heat of the sun walking leisurely +along carrying nothing; the rest of the party were much in advance and, +as it was such a fearfully hot day and not a drop of water near, nothing +could be done with the flesh of him unfortunately. At five miles further +came to a large deep creek flowing westward, no water in it. Up to this +point was to be seen in the distance westward apparent breaks in the +sandhills with box timber in each; and I have no doubt many of those +places form into large creeks by the terrific overflow of this main +creek. At one mile further on (340 degrees) crossing this creek on to top +of sandhill, changed course to 38 degrees, the creek from the sandhill +bearing considerably eastward. At two and a quarter miles over flooded +flats and at some rainwater where I afterwards camped; at two miles +further struck the creek but not a drop of water; searched up and down +for some distance but none to be found, so returned to the rainwater two +miles back from the creek, where fortunately there was sufficient for all +the animals. The flood here, when it does occur, fills the whole valley +between the sandhills on either side of the creek, and after such +occasions must appear a splendid country; but at present no country could +possibly look more desolate. This cannot possibly be Eyre's Creek as it +is much larger in the first place, and seems to bear away too much to the +east ever to be a continuation of Sturt's Eyre's Creek. Traces of Burke's +camels and horses are still to be seen on the creek; I fancy on his +return from the Gulf. I feel very ill this evening, hardly able to sit in +the saddle. + +Wednesday, February 19. + +Sent Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton off up the creek to search for water, +and Middleton to return after travelling about eight miles if successful +in finding a supply to enable us to proceed further up the creek; +Hodgkinson to go further on and examine the creek and return in the +afternoon to where it was arranged we should camp. Middleton returned +about noon with the intelligence that about seven miles up there was +abundance of water in the creek for our immediate wants; so we started +late in the afternoon as the distance was short and the day fearfully +hot, bearing of 350 degrees for four and a half miles, the creek +appearing to bear too much east, change course to 360 degrees for two and +a quarter miles further, and it getting late changed course straight on +for the creek, bearing of 37 1/2 degrees for three-quarters of a mile, +where I struck the creek with a little salt water in its bed; down the +creek from this about half a mile is the water, and where we afterwards +camped but without knowing (in the absence of Middleton, who was seized +with a violent illness on the way here and did not get to the camp at all +during the night). I went up the creek for two and a half miles, found it +dry, and returned to water and camped. + +Thursday, February 20. + +Camp on east side of creek where the latter is upwards of 180 yards wide +and about 80 feet deep, western banks very inaccessible, the east bank +where we have camped less so with immense polygonum bushes. Very unwell +still; we were not aware of the cause of Middleton's detention with the +camels, on which was the food, till he and Davis made their appearance +after the morning had somewhat advanced, when they arrived and explained +the cause; Middleton was very ill indeed of dysentery and could scarcely +crawl. + +Friday, February 21. + +In camp; I feel a little better, Middleton still very unwell; miserable +camp but can't help it. + +Saturday, February 22. + +Started Mr. Hodgkinson and Bell out on the west side of the creek to +examine ranges that appear stony in the distance, and ascertain if this +creek receives any tributary from the westward of north-north-west likely +to be Eyre's Creek, as there is no doubt this is not it, and return by +this creek to ascertain how the water lies in it. I am much better today +and Middleton appears to be on the change for the better; wind south with +a few clouds. + +Sunday, February 23. + +Middleton improving; I feel much better, so much so that, as there is a +cool breeze from the south, I am induced to ride out to the eastward to +examine the country between this and the stony hills visible from here on +the east side of the creek; went four and a half miles course 135 +degrees, over flooded flats and a couple of sandhills, from top of the +highest sandhill changed course to 113 degrees for two and a quarter +miles to top of another larger sandhill, passing one other in my course, +then on bearing of 15 degrees for six and three-quarter miles over +flooded flats with a few smaller sandhills, but soon terminate on both +sides of my course; the current over this tract of flat being to the +south of east, then three-quarters of a mile on bearing of 15 degrees +over one sandhill to top of rocky hill, from which the flooded flat I +have just passed gathers together in the distance to a creek, and goes +off on course of 155 degrees, and no doubt is the feeder of the waters +now in the creek to south and east of our present camp namely +Barrawarkanya, Marroboolyooroo, Cadityrrie, Meincounyannie, and Gnappa +Muntra; then two and a quarter miles on bearing of 10 degrees to top of +sandy and stony hill, with four or five mallee trees and a few other +shrubs; marked one of the mallee trees. From this hill the creek passed +end of table-topped stone range on bearing from six to nine miles distant +north-west and round northward to east, peaks and hills of stone with +intervening flats, some of earth, others of stone, are visible as far as +eye can reach; from this hill our present camp bears about 227 1/2 +degrees and distant about eleven and a half miles. In the evening Mr. +Hodgkinson and Bell returned having examined the hilly country, but could +find no tributary joining the creek; saw water up some distance that will +suit our purpose so far. I will in a day or two ride over to Eyre's Creek +and ascertain if either of the northern search parties have got there +yet, and deposit a memorandum for them there and see if a route be +practicable westward to Stuart's country now, or if I shall have to wait +for more rain: although we had such nice rain coming over the desert the +excessive heat has absorbed most of it, and you may travel a day without +seeing a drop; intend starting up the creek in the morning. Middleton +much better. Mr. Hodgkinson saw one native and his lubra up the creek but +had little conversation. + +Monday, February 24. + +Camped; the bullocks not found till too late to start. Mr. Hodgkinson +tendered his resignation as second in command which I accepted, and from +this date he holds no longer any position as officer in the party under +my guidance. Poole had a sun-stroke during the day whilst out after the +horses, but by cold application to the head he soon recovered. + +Tuesday, February 25. + +Rather late getting the animals ready for a start, the feed being so +scant; started on bearing of 40 degrees, on same side of creek as that on +which we were encamped, over flooded flats and sandy terminations: at +five and three-quarter miles passed along and crossed a large deep creek +in which there was a little water and a number of native wurlies. Course +of creek nearly north and south, at seven and a quarter miles further +over some abrupt sandhills, the summits of which had an almost +perpendicular wall of pure drift sand, varying from two and a half feet +to five feet in height and very difficult for the animals to get over, +and flooded flats on same bearing; then changed course to 34 degrees for +four and a half miles over similar country mixed with stone hills and +flats, the creek being a long way to the west but now gradually +approaching our course; then changed course to 14 degrees for one and +one-sixth of a mile to creek, where luckily we found sufficient water for +all purposes and in the bed of the creek a better supply of green grass +for the animals than they have had for some time. Cloudy, wind +north-east. The bullocks have not arrived tonight. + +Wednesday, February 26. + +Cloudy and threatening for rain; wind north-east. At 9.30 a.m. one of the +men from the bullocks arrived and informed me that one of the pack +bullocks had dropped and was killed to endeavour to make some use of his +flesh. This is the same that had the sunstroke first but was apparently +recovering; and another of our very best and generally quietest had that +day bucked so much in endeavouring to get rid of his saddle that he +disabled himself, fell down, and could not be got up; the remainder of +the bullocks went off to feed but there he was where he fell in the +morning beside his pack. Immediately on hearing of this disaster I +forwarded some hands and packhorses out to convey to camp what was +thought to be of any use. It has commenced raining and what little will +be got cannot, I am afraid, be cured, as there is every appearance of a +continuation of rain and there will be no chance of drying the flesh as +we have no salt. If it was fair weather I would kill at once the disabled +also, and have his flesh dried; but it would be no use at present and he +may be able to get up after a spell and come in this length when, if the +weather prove favourable, I will have him killed and jerked. The +remainder of the bullocks (seven) arrived during the day and the +detachment of the party with what was thought of use of the dead bullock; +but I question much about its keeping as now it is raining steadily, but +we will use as much of it as we can and save the sheep. None of our +journeys appear to give the sheep the slightest inconvenience and they +are as ready to commence their journey in the morning as the man that +attends to them; in fact no party ought ever to go out exploring in the +summer months without them. During the day I rode out to the tops of some +of the stony ranges to get a view of the upward course of the creek; it +seems to go off somewhere on a bearing of 50 degrees but I fancy will +soon turn more to the north. It is quite astonishing to see the patches +of beautiful green grass on the slopes of the stone hills in the small +watercourses that fall down their sides; in fact the only thing like feed +I have seen for some time, and what little there is, is in the bed of the +creeks. The creek here has an anabranch that leaves it about half a mile +above and joins again about half a mile below; width of island half a +mile. + +Thursday, February 27. + +Rained heavily and steadily all night from the east-north-east; the +ground at daylight a perfect bog. From the severity of the night some of +our sheep got adrift but were recovered during the day. The creek, +nine-tenths of which was yesterday dry, is now running a strong stream +and momentarily increasing. Got all the animals across to this side +during the forenoon as the rain appeared likely to continue; and now that +it has set in will most likely inundate all the low flats and completely +put a stop to further progress up the creek until the ground hardens a +little. At such times the only place of safety hereabouts are the +sandhills or stony hills; the latter I prefer, and will shift to one in +the event of the rain continuing another night as steadily as it did last +night as there, and there only, is there any feed to be had for our +animals. They have fallen off considerably of late from the hot weather +and the scantiness of good feed. As soon as they were taken over the +creek they were taken out to one of the stone-ridges and there left in +tolerable feed but not very abundant. The water is lying all over the +flat in sheets and the creek rising rapidly. It must have been a very +long time since this part of the country has been similarly visited with +rain, as the country generally, the flats principally, had not any +vegetation upon them of any useful kind. As I said before the stone +hills, or rather the small creeks on their slopes, are the only places +where there was any feed excepting in the bed of the creek, and now that +last supply was gone, as the creek by this afternoon was swimmable. + +Friday, February 28. + +Raining all night but not quite so heavily; still very considerably. Our +camp is like a stockyard in the southern districts much used in the wet +weather--over our boots in mud and water; although on some of the highest +ground just about here pounds of mud and rubbish adhere to your boots +every time you lift your feet. Creek considerably more swollen; and as +every place is so saturated with water and mud will not move out of this +till tomorrow morning. In the meantime, in hopes that it will clear up a +little and make the ground firm enough to bear the weight of the animals. +It is well we left the cart or we should not have been able to move it +from this, and every probability of its being carried away by the flood +now rapidly approaching. We are now in that position and not far from the +place where Captain Sturt dreaded being overtaken by rain. It is fearful +to travel over but must make the best of it. I am very glad indeed that +we have been favoured with such a copious supply; although for a short +time it may prevent my travelling it will be the means of enabling me to +move about afterwards as I may think fit. I wish I had a couple of +months' more rations of flour, tea, and sugar, as then I could thoroughly +examine the country in this quarter; as it is I will do the best I can. +If this creek carries me much more to the north instead of going to the +east as it now does I think it will take a run through to the Albert +River; and if the steam-sloop Victoria, Captain Norman, has not sailed +from there I think I will be able to get flour or biscuits in sufficient +quantity to carry me back, and enable me to do all, or nearly so, that +was required of me by the South Australian Government; if not at the +Albert I will only be obliged to live the principal part of the return +journey on animal food and what vegetables we may find from time to +time--it won't be a very hard case but much more pleasant and agreeable +if it can be obtained. It is very boisterous. Rain and wind from +east-south-east. The creek rising steadily; by the morning it will be +nearly or quite on a level with the way by which I shall have to travel +in the morning for the high ground. It has a current of about three miles +an hour, or similar to that of the Murray, for which reason I am led to +believe that its chief source is some considerable distance away, +although it receives innumerable tributaries on both sides above and +below where I now am. The rain as it falls upon these stone-clad hills +runs off at once into the small creeks, thence into larger ones on the +flat land, then into the main creek after filling the waterholes in their +respective courses. Towards evening it looks very dark and again +threatens much for a quantity of rain; if so by morning we shall have the +creek high. + +Saturday, March 1. + +At first blush of dawn wind from same quarter (east-south-east). Rained +heavily all night and to my astonishment, instead of the creek rising as +usual (three and a half inches per hour) it was now rising five and a +half inches and hourly increasing. Although the creek has in many places +overflown its banks, and consequently a much broader channel, we are +completely surrounded with at least five feet of water in the shallowest +place that we can escape from this by. After a breakfast by daybreak the +animals are immediately sent for and, as the men start for them, drive +before them our sheep for more than half a mile through a strong current, +and swimming three-fourths of the time; they went over splendidly and +were left on a piece of dry land until our camels and horses came and +removed the stores etc., which fortunately they did with not very many of +the things getting wet. The camels being brought in and loaded and out to +where the sheep were first, I had two of them unloaded and sent back to +carry to the dry ground any of the perishable articles such as +ammunition, flour, tea, and sugar, which they brought in safety; for had +it been put on the horses as usual, and not being able to keep them on +our track, the probability is they would have to swim and completely +destroy the ammunition and injure the other stores; the camels acted +famously and from their great height were as good as if we had been +supplied with boats. After getting all onto dry land they were repacked +and went on to a very good camp, now that there is water, on a sandhill +about two and three-quarters to three miles distant in an east-south-east +direction through a good deal of water and almost impassable flats--the +sheep even sinking up to their bodies in the mud; however we got them all +over safely by early in the afternoon. Still showery and how long we +shall be weather-bound quite uncertain; however there is plenty of feed +for the animals here which is a great comfort, and what is more they are +in perfect safety, as well as we are ourselves, from the boisterous state +of the weather. Whilst on the creek in the morning, had there been much +difficulty in getting the animals, we should have had to hoist the things +up into trees, and constructed a raft of dead timber, and rafted them off +to dry land, which would have been a great deal of trouble. Squally +still; wind continues from same quarter. Towards evening a great portion +of the flat is being covered with water from the creek, beyond the creek +there is nothing visible but lines of trees, marking the course of the +lesser channels, and stone hills, all else is a perfect sea. We were very +fortunate to be caught in it where we were; had we been caught thus in +making this creek, or a day's stage up it, to a certainty we should all +have been washed away, or what would have been just as bad, be perched on +a small island of sand with all the animals round us and nothing but +starvation staring us in the face--as on most of the sand-rises down near +the creek there was no vegetation of any consequence upon them. + +Sunday, March 2. + +In camp; light showers occasionally. The side creeks from the hills +running themselves out and the upper parts drying; the line of creek +visible in the distance through the trees during all its course now in +view, and the flats considerably more covered. Thunder and lightning from +north to north-east. + +Monday, March 3. + +Wind east-south-east; as usual squally. On turning in last night it had +every appearance of rain and did rain steadily for some time but +gradually held up for the night, and appeared as if we were to have a dry +change to have all the things that got wet perfectly dry again. I shall +get all the horses shod here as, from the soft nature of the flats for +some time to come, they will be unfit to travel over the approaching +stony country. Intend searching for the bullock that fell down the other +day and ascertaining whether he is dead or alive; if alive to get him +brought on here; and if much disabled to have him killed and jerked as +soon as the weather clears and the sun shines out sufficiently for that +purpose. Found bullock within a quarter of a mile of where he was left, +able just to stand and no more; I will send out tomorrow afternoon and +have him killed where he is and his flesh brought in here the morning +following for the purpose of jerking it; he appears good beef. The +country boggy; in the afternoon rode down to the creek through a good +deal of water to ascertain the state of the flood, and had to swim some +distance to get to the main creek; when I got there I was glad to find +that not only had it, for the present, arrived at its height, but had +gone down nearly nine inches. The last time this country was flooded it +was about seven feet higher (perpendicularly) than it was this time, and +the sand and stone hills were flooded for several feet up their sides +from their base. Wind still from south-east by east, with an occasional +slight passing shower, but symptoms of clearing up. This country is +perfectly infested with wild dogs; and fortunately for us it is that I +happened to have some strychnine, it plays great havoc amongst them; so +voracious are they that when one of their fellows die the others fall to +and devour him; by this means many are destroyed. Middleton recovering +but very slowly; he continues to have a very troublesome +diarrhoea--aggravated no doubt by being obliged for the last few days to +be nearly always wet; sometimes even to swim clothes and all, and +remaining in that condition till the camp was brought here and fixed; I +should be sorry if anything were to happen to him as he is an invaluable +man in such a party as this. + +Tuesday, March 4. + +Wind a little more east; shod some of the horses yesterday and some this +morning. Four of the party after dinner started to kill the bullock; camp +there and return in the morning with the meat when cold. I with Poole +rode out to some high stone hills eastward to endeavour to get a view of +the creek and ascertain, if possible, from which quarter it principally +flows. After getting to top of the highest, from which one gets very +extensive view to the north-east, there was a slight haze that prevented +me positively ascertaining its actual course; there is very heavy timber +on a bearing of 35 degrees, and appears surrounded by hills. The haze was +so bad that I could not be certain; however I must travel in that +direction first and trust that it suddenly turns round to the north; from +this last point to a point 20 degrees west of north is a perfect sea, +nothing but isolated trees showing above the water; I found the ground +exceedingly soft, almost impassable in many places. On the tableland, at +the foot of the high stone-hills I ascended, are lines of creeks forming +the drainage of the country, thickly timbered with myall, and (for the +place) a considerable quantity of good grass; abundance of water lying on +the top of the tableland, with seagulls, ducks, cranes, etc., about and +on the basins; seven black swans passed over the camp in their flight on +bearing of 335 degrees, no doubt to some lake in that direction. Some few +days ago not a bird was to be seen scarcely, but a few kite, crows, and +galahs; now the whole country seems to be alive with ducks of various +kinds, macaws, corellas, cockatoo parrots, and innumerable small birds. + +Wednesday, March 5. + +Wind light from north-east and every appearance of a beautiful day; the +country beginning to have quite a green appearance, and the valleys being +covered with lilies in full bloom, birds singing and chirping all around +as if in spring. I am quite shut out for the present from Eyre's Creek; +so will not attempt it. At midday the party arrived with the meat of the +bullock and shortly after, when cutting it up for jerking, the head of +the axe accidentally flew off and inflicted a severe wound in the knee of +Maitland our cook; I hope it won't disable him long, although it is deep +and in a nasty place. Got all the meat jerked by evening and trust we may +have dry weather to have it properly preserved; lots of bones and scraps, +of which we shall make soup. + +Thursday, March 6. + +Wind more to the north and every appearance of a dry day; busy shoeing +the horses although they make a slow and sorry work of it. + +Friday, March 7. + +Wind changing all round except from the south and clouds gathering; with +lots of black macaws screeching out in all directions. I hope they are +not again the forerunners of a downpour, as they were of the last. The +meat appears to be drying nicely, and will have it taken up this evening. +It is very sultry. + +Saturday, March 8. + +Wind from west round to north and sultry with a good many fleecy clouds; +shall finish shoeing the horses today with the exception of one which +will require a couple of days' work first, being at present rather fresh +(a good fault) and if all is well will make a start on Monday morning. +The stony hills and slopes (that from every appearance, a few days ago, +from their thorough bronzed and desert appearance, one would suppose +grass never grew) are now being clothed in many places with a nice green +coating of grass, and shortly will give this part quite a lively +appearance, very different indeed from what it was when I first saw it, +then it was as desolate a looking spot as one could picture to himself. +In a couple or three months' time from this date one could with little +difficulty (I am almost certain) start with a herd of any description of +stock from the northern settled parts of South Australia and go right +across the continent to whatever point he might think fit by this route, +but I will know more about it shortly. This bullock gave us of dried meat +about 116 pounds, apparently well dried, besides what meat was used with +the bones to make soup. I hope it may keep well. + +Sunday, March 9. + +At Escape, or Number 7, Camp--will be all ready for a start in the +morning. Wind north-east. + +Monday, March 10. + +Wind north and east, fresh breeze. Bullocks rather refractory at being +packed, consequently late before we started. The journey today was over +stony hills and flats, crossing several small creeks from the more remote +hills, some running tributaries of Burke Creek for twelve and a half +miles, and for three and three-quarter miles further over similar +country, but more flat as we are now approaching the creek, and camped on +the outside of a flat with some water and a fair supply of feed. I was +here before the pack animals arrived but, after waiting for them a short +time, found that in some of the small watercourses the water seemed to be +driving, as I thought with the strength of the wind as is not unusual, +and took for the time no further notice; the horses came up first and +were unpacked, the camels were some time after and did not arrive until +after I had returned from a ride to the top of a hill further up the +creek, and at which place I went down to the water and to my astonishment +found that the whole valley was a perfect sea, rising fast; on my return +to where I had fixed the camp I found that the water had approached +rather too close to be comfortable, and on the arrival of the camels had +them unpacked some distance out on the top of a mound of stones and had +all the horse gear removed there also; the bullocks did not get to camp +till a little after sunset--one of them was so much trouble that I will +do without him rather than be pestered with him, and put his load on one +of the horses. The camels travelled over the stones with their loads +apparently quite unconcerned; they are undoubtedly the best of all +animals for this kind of work, they eat anything nearly, from the gumtree +down to the smallest herb, and then come and lie down beside you, whereas +horses and bullocks, if there be any lack of feed, will ramble all over +the country; with sheep and camels one could travel all over any +practicable part of the continent and keep them in condition. + +Tuesday, March 11. + +Where we had the packs removed from last night and all over the flats is +a perfect sea of water, and even up within less than a foot of where I +slept. From the creek having fallen not far from our last camp some days +since I was under the impression that I would find it considerably down +the further I advanced up its course; but now I find that the cause of +its fall then was purely local from the tributaries immediately about and +above having ceased with the rain to throw in a supply to keep it up. It +now shows me that this creek must come from some very considerable +distance; and I trust it may turn out to come from the north instead of +too much east. It appears from where I was last night to incline towards +the north. Wind from east-south-east. Started for a gap in the range over +top of a stony range to a creek. High table-top ranges in the distance, +north and south of 64 degrees; then to top of red sandhill; then for +three and three-quarter miles to top of sandhill over flat stony plains +with plenty of water and feed. From this point a perfect sea is before +me. Came to camp on Myall Creek after passing two table-topped hills on +left and a peak and table-topped hill on right; beyond the camp plenty of +feed and water. Today passed a native camp, the fire still burning, and +their tracks quite fresh; but did not see them. One of the bullocks did +not arrive in camp; he knocked up and charged the men and they were +consequently obliged to leave him. He was pulled about a good deal the +day before in packing him so would be no use to kill him, besides I could +not carry him at present; he may come up during the night, if so he may +perhaps drive loose and will kill him when wanted. + +Wednesday, March 12. + +The bullock did not come up during the night so will be obliged to leave +him behind. Started on bearing of 55 degrees for two and one-eighth miles +and crossed several myall creeks; over stony ground; the flood close by +obliged to change course to bearing of 97 degrees for three-quarters of a +mile, then bearing of 91 degrees for two and a quarter miles over low +chopping slaty and stony hills and several creeks; then bearing of 84 1/2 +degrees for eight miles over stony ground, very bad travelling; then on +bearing of 77 degrees for half a mile to camp on a frizzly-barked tree +creek. Passed several of the same kind of creeks today with some timber; +it is very hard and some of it (from three to four feet in diameter) +would make splendid furniture. Another of the bullocks dropped down when +within two hundred yards of the camp, apparently affected by the +sun--although it did not seem to me so very hot, although it was sultry. +I hope he will be able to go on in the morning or at this rate we shall +soon lose them all. Wind has chopped round from north-east to south this +afternoon and looks very much like rain. From top of a hill about a mile +from here looking over a sea of water, two openings to be seen in the +sandhills beyond, much as if one or other was the proper course of the +creek; one at 355 1/2 degrees, with heavy timber, and one at 10 degrees, +without so much timber but broader and more like. Natives raising a great +smoke in the distance about five or six miles west of the 355 1/2 degrees +opening. Blew strong in the evening and the rain went off. + +Thursday, March 13. + +Camp 10. Clouds all gone; wind north-east. The bullock unable to get up +so I shall be obliged very reluctantly to leave him behind; but perhaps I +may be driven back this way and he will then be of use. Started for gap +in range bearing 120 degrees for four and a half miles over very stony +country. On table-topped hill on the left, and the mass of ranges on the +left, they look like the Reaphooks (hills) in the north of Adelaide at +Marrana. I have called the main mass of ranges Wills Ranges, after the +unfortunate gentleman who lost his life with poor Burke; then bearing 139 +degrees for one and three-quarter miles; then a bearing of 155 degrees +for six and a half miles, passing along and over sandhills and rich +pasture, with cane swamps full of water, to south-east termination of +sandhills. Thousands of flock pigeons, some teal, and a new duck. They +have here commenced laying; several pigeons' nests were found as we +passed along, and a duck's with eight or ten eggs in it; plenty of quail +and other small birds. Saw a bustard in the midst of the sandhills which +bear 340 degrees. To the north of this camp a short distance is a very +strange round stone hill, capped with larger stone, which I have called +Elliott's Knob. One native was seen today on the top of one of the stony +ridges, but did not get within speaking distance of him; many tracks were +discernible for the last eight miles. From top of one of the stone hills +to right of gap in range a perfect sea was before me from 298 degrees +round north to 95 degrees, with nothing but here and there the tops of +trees that line the creek only discernible, and sand and rock hills +forming islands; and in the distance to north and west the hills that +bound the vast expanse of water appear like islands far off in the ocean. + +Friday, March 14. + +Camp 11. Started on bearing of 90 degrees for five miles to top of long +stony ridges. For the first two miles through swamp and water and +sandhill, leaving on left hand a very nice lake, and on the right some +little distance off a sand-ridge running along swamp; in the distance +south is timber denoting a creek which forms this swamp and lakes--the +remaining three miles of the five very stony and bad travelling. +Immediately beyond me at the end of the five miles stretches a large dry +bed of a lake eastward, with a considerable swamp to south round to 80 +degrees, following the foot of a well-defined range, at the north-east +termination of which range, visible from here, are several smaller and +larger table-topped hills and gaps; then on bearing of 80 degrees, +passing through an arm of dry lake; good travelling for nine and a half +miles and camped on small sandhill at a claypan; the flood from three to +four miles off to west of north; sandhills ahead. + +Saturday, March 15. + +Camp 12, or packsaddle camp, having left one of the bullock's packsaddles +on a tree. Bearing 48 degrees for three and a half miles over very heavy +country with spinifex and abundance of other grasses; one and a half +miles further same course over stony and sandy rises. A splendid tier of +table-topped hills in the distance east and north; bearing of 65 degrees +for two and a half miles, then bearing of 20 degrees over a flooded +splendid swamp, principally, four and a half miles to a box creek where I +will kill Ranger the bullock as he cannot travel. Distance travelled +today twelve miles. + +Sunday, March 16. + +Went to have a view from the principal range eastward, the first and +greater part of the road over magnificent pasture, nearer the hills very +stony; found the hills distant twenty-one miles; from top of a large +table-topped one I had a splendid view; the tier of ranges I am now on +bear to east of north and west of south but are very irregular, many +spurs running off from main range and forming a vast number of +crown-shaped tops and peaked hills, with innumerable creeks draining the +country from east and south to west and north and joining the main creek. +Twenty-one miles travelled today bearing 62 1/2 degrees; from this hill +another tier of similar hills is seen in the distance with a very large +creek draining the country between this and that, flowing northward, and +then west round the north end of the tier I am now upon, the south-west +end of distant range bears 125 degrees, about twenty-five to thirty miles +off, and the north-east end, dimly seen in the distance, bears 65 +degrees, which tier of ranges and creek I have called Browne Creek after +J.H. Browne, Esquire, of Booboorowie, South Australia. The range I am on +and the tier northward to where the creek (Browne's) passes round the end +of them I have called Ellar's tier of table-tops; the tier south of where +I now am I have called Warren's tier of table-tops after my respected +friend George Warren, Esquire, of Gawler for whose kindness I am much +indebted; the plains or downs east and north of those ranges I have +called The Downs of Plenty as here there is everything one could wish in +travelling over a new country. I would have gone over to the distant +ranges but unfortunately my horse threw one of her shoes and I was +obliged to camp at a creek under the hills for the night. The creek I +have now camped on I have named Ranger's Creek after our bullock killed +here. + +Monday, March 17. + +Returned to camp; on my way out to the hills yesterday saw three natives, +but they would not let me approach, they were busy collecting seeds from +the different grasses; the beef seemingly drying well but will have to +give it another day. + +Tuesday, March 18. + +In camp; will pack up the beef tonight and start in the morning. +Afternoon packed the beef, it gave us 162 pounds of well-dried meat and I +hope it may keep good. + +Wednesday, March 19. + +Started about 10.30 and went about fourteen miles; passed through some +magnificent country, one fine plain alone extended for several miles and +well grassed; in the distance could be seen high ranges. The weather +magnificent and quite tropical, the perfume from the flowers is quite +refreshing. Cut a tree with 13 MK (conjoined), 15 to 19-3-62. Distance +travelled today fifteen miles. Camped on a creek, fine water. + +Thursday, March 20. + +Left the camp about 10 a.m. and travelled till we struck a large creek +and went on over fine flats and sandhills covered with most luxuriant +grass and several descriptions of creepers. The blue convolvulus was also +seen today for the first time, also a most beautiful small blue flower +with a dark purple eye. Plenty of pigeons today, some few nests were +found on the march. The mosquitoes very bad at this camp. A native was +brought into camp by Mr. Hodgkinson this evening and we decorated him +with necklaces and gave him a feed. Distance travelled today fifteen +miles. + +Friday, March 21. + +Marked a small bastard sandalwood tree this morning 11 MK (conjoined), +20-3-62. Our journey today was over nothing but red sandhills course +about north-north-east; had to cross a large sheet of water. Eighty duck +eggs were found today by the men. The country round about now is very +fine indeed, grass as high as the horses' knees. We now every day find +fresh shrubs and flowers, everything reminding one of the tropics. +Bullocks and sheep not in tonight, mosquitoes bad here indeed. Last night +was certainly the most infernal night I ever passed, never slept. The +mosquitoes were fearful although fires were lighted all round us, each +man having his private bonfire, yet the mosquitoes were not to be +frightened, they would buzz and bite; rolled our heads up in our blankets +and oilskins but in a second or two the little brutes were under and +buzzing away. The air also seemed impregnated with the little tormentors. +Camped on claypan with little and bad water. Bullocks not up nor sheep. +Distance travelled about sixteen miles. + +Saturday, March 22. + +Bullocks did not come up last night so have had to send back today, +consequently spelled. Thunder and a couple of showers in the afternoon at +which time the bullocks arrived, having strayed far. + +Sunday, March 23. + +Claypan camp. At five and a quarter miles cleared sandhills bearing 17 +degrees, flooded and stony flats with sand. At six and three-quarter +miles crossed a box and myall creek. At seven and three-quarter miles to +top of sandhill passed sandy bed of myall creek from hills. At ten and +three-quarter miles crossed a box and myall creek, running north and +west; plenty of water in creeks, and on both sides of course passing +stony flats and undulations, well grassed. At thirteen and a half miles a +white gum flat with not many stones and trees not large. At fifteen and a +half miles over stony undulations well grassed to top of a myall creek +followed it down west one mile to plenty of water and feed. +Camped--sixteen and a half miles. At three miles and up to four and a +half after starting flood close by on left. + +Monday, March 24. + +Camp 17. Bearing of 355 degrees. At three and three-quarter miles crossed +a myall creek or flat--broad, with several dry channels from +north-north-east, draining a tier of fine ranges on the east--the only +ones now visible to north or east--which I have called Scott's ranges +(the tops of which, especially the northern one, are well wooded) after +John Scott, Esquire, of Adelaide, a gentleman to whom I am much indebted, +in not only giving the use of two of his best horses for my use during +the time the expedition would be absent, but in also kindly requesting me +to call at his station in the North and take from it what I might +consider of service to me. Over gentle slopes, some stony. Saw fifteen +emu on one of the plains so have named the plain and undulations Emu +Downs, to a box creek with abundance of water and feed at seventeen and a +half miles. No timber except on the ranges and creeks. This appears a +small creek to many that are in sight to north and west. A range +continues to north-north-east. The creek from eastward to westward and +southward joining other larger creeks a few miles west of this. The whole +of the country passed over today is excellent pastoral country. From this +camp the north-east termination of Scott's Ranges, ending in two detached +round-looking hills, bears 113 1/2 degrees, about six to ten miles off. + +Tuesday, March 25. + +Started on bearing of 355 degrees. At two and a half miles crossed a box +creek with plenty of water from north-east to west and south, sweeping +considerably towards latter quarter. At fourteen and a half miles to box +creek, dry where I struck it. Went on bearing of 238 degrees for two +miles to a creek with plenty of water and camped. Sixteen and a half +miles over beautifully grassed, very gently sloping and undulating +country; rising ground seen to the west in the distance--flood must be +some distance off. New hawk seen (light-coloured) this afternoon. + +Wednesday, March 26. + +Camp 19. Started on bearing of 315 degrees to get closer to course of +main creek which I have observed nothing of for the last two days. +Beautiful weather; heavy dews at night. At ten miles struck and crossed a +box creek where it empties itself into a flat; passing over splendid +country, the latter part in the small watercourse rather stony and sandy. +A quarter of a mile further on is another box creek, and between it and +the first creek is a perfectly boggy swamp full of water, as well as the +creek, so have to change course to avoid some of it; bearing of 55 1/2 +degrees, over plain for two miles; then bearing 7 1/2 degrees for four +and a half miles, first part of it magnificent feed, the rest a +morass--will have to clear out of this to the east for some distance to +round it. Any traveller caught here in rainy weather such as has been +lately deluging these vast plains would to a certainty be washed +away--there is not a knoll six feet high within the range of the eye. +Journey today about sixteen and a half miles from point to point, but I +made it considerably more in trying to get across the swamp and being +obliged to return. A small hill from top of a tree at camp beyond what +appears the main creek in the distance bears 309 degrees; another small +one is west and south of that--no other rising ground to speak of +visible, except in the direction we came from and a little east of it. + +Thursday, March 27. + +20, or Carbine Creek camp--having left one behind there on a tree, which +has lost the hammer and is unfit for service. Bearing of 29 degrees for +nine miles over swampy country with splendid feed, belts of timber on the +right or east of course, studded in various places, denoting waterholes; +then bearing of 15 degrees for one and a quarter miles where I got bogged +in a creek; got out of it again with a good deal of difficulty and found +that course quite impracticable; after trying the ground for a couple of +miles found it nothing but a bog, so changed course to 54 degrees for +half a mile over sound ground, and encamped on a small creek with a +perfect meadow of grass all around. From the top of a tree hills in the +distance to north and south of east discernible--rising ground near, +which I will make for in the morning. I went out this evening and found +that it is good travelling and will thus allow me to get more in a +northerly direction than of late. Cannot get within miles as yet of the +main creek on account of the boggy nature of the ground--there appear to +be innumerable timbered creeks between this and that, all running into +it--the water here, even on the level plains, is in places running a +stream. One of the camels got bogged on the road today and had to be dug +out with much difficulty. + +Friday, March 28. + +Camp 21. Beautiful morning, wind from east-south-east. Started on bearing +of 68 degrees for one mile to clear some water; then on bearing of 34 +degrees for two and a quarter miles; bearing of 27 degrees for four and a +quarter miles; bearing of 20 degrees for three and a half miles to top of +a small stony rise, immediately beyond which, half a mile distant, is one +mass of creeks occupying a mile in width, coming from south of east from +hills in the distance. These creeks, no doubt, are one both above and +below this, although now split into many branches. I have called it +Davenport Creek after George Davenport, Esquire, of Melbourne, a +gentleman to whom I am much indebted for his kindness. Then bearing of 41 +degrees at half a mile came to first creek and continued on same course, +crossing creeks for one mile; distance about twelve and a half miles. +This creek must drain an immense tract of country eastward. Northward +appears one mass of creeks. It is certainly a magnificent country if +there is permanent water. + +Saturday, March 29. + +Camp 22. Beautiful morning, wind light from south-south-east. On bearing +of 355 degrees for seventeen and a half miles, first part over rather +swampy ground, chiefly over firm ground; good travelling country and a +little stony (sandstone). On it found a new fruit on a shrub about five +feet high, not unlike the bean tree; the fruit tree of Cooper's Creek +also is here and it is a more handsome tree than between this and +Cooper's Creek; the bean tree is also here. Within the last two miles the +ground has been swampy and full of watercourses, with plenty of water +caused by the emptying of a large creek from the east, coming past +south-west end of a large range east and running north of this position; +which creek I have named Brown's Creek after Charles Brown, Esquire, of +Great Bourke Street West, Melbourne, whose upright way of conducting +business I very much admire and who, from his straightforward manner, +gains the esteem of everyone that has anything to do with him. + +Sunday, March 30. + +Camp Number 23. Bearing of 7 degrees one mile, bearing of 355 degrees +eight and a half miles to top of a sandhill, well-grassed; passing on the +left, half a mile back, a couple of same kind and a little higher. From +the one I am on an extensive view of the surrounding country is had. On +the west side of the creek close is a tier of ranges running parallel +with it; nearest part not above four miles from this; hills on the right +at various distances discernible all along the course today; the most +prominent one seemingly well-wooded and terminating northward in a bluff +and small table-top. Bluff bearing 117 1/2 degrees, I have called the +Hamilton Range after George Hamilton, Esquire, Inspector of Police, +Adelaide. Two table-topped hills are to the east and north of the bluff; +southern one bears south end 114 degrees, north end 113 1/2 degrees; +south end of north table-top 113 1/4 degrees; north-east end 112 degrees. +On a bearing of 60 degrees distant is a mass of apparently heavy ranges +running west of north--as do most of the ranges that at all approach the +creek. The country here has been terribly torn by the flood and torrents +of rain that must have fallen some short time back; in some places it has +the appearance of being literally ploughed in stripes, but generally +firm; any quantity of water on right of course. To the east, between the +hills, heavy creeks come out west and north in all directions, +overflowing the whole country; anyone caught in the locality on such +occasions as the late visit of the flood here would never more be heard +of. On bearing of 331 degrees for two and a half miles; bearing of 340 +degrees for four and three-quarter miles--in all about sixteen and +three-quarter miles; latter part much torn by water and in consequence +less feed than usual. Camped on one of the main channels of the main +creek about eighty to one hundred yards wide, cut into a number of +channels; abundance of water and feed. From this camp peculiar cliffy red +table-topped hill bears 77 degrees; highest point of range 33 1/2 +degrees; farthest part visible 7 degrees; is timbered on top; running +north-west; south end distant about five to seven miles. + +Monday, March 31. + +Bearing 15 degrees one and one-eighth miles; bearing of 36 1/2 degrees +four miles to ranges, part of table-top hill about three and a half miles +off where the creek goes through the gorge between the table-tops, when +it is fully half and nearly three-quarters of a mile wide, and nearly one +sheet of water and bogs; it divides towards the other side through larger +passage on the east and two rocky hills in the angle, nearly north and +south of each other and about 100 yards apart; another rocky cone hill is +south again of them. Round rocky summit and bears 240 degrees; crossed on +bearing of 10 degrees over table-top limestone and sandstone hill to flat +on the other side at four miles; at two miles further on same course +camped at first good water we met. This range that I have passed over I +have called Hamilton's Table-tops after G. Hamilton, Esquire, Inspector +of Police; the gorge and island I have called Hunter; the table-tops on +opposite side I have called Goyder's after the Surveyor-General of South +Australia; the islands immediately south of Hunter's Island and close +alongside I have called Mary's Island: and the cone southward of that I +have called Moses Island Cone after a young relative of mine in Scotland. + +Tuesday, April 1. + +Beautiful morning; wind east and fresh. Travelled zigzag through creeks +from the eastward for about twenty miles and camped on large one from +south of east that we could not find a crossing at; our distance in a +direct line would not be much more than half that, and the exact course +not known till I get on one of the hills; to east and north no view, +being perfectly shut out with timber. The country near the creek is a +perfect bog, and even a man has great difficulty in getting out of some +places that he is induced to try, thinking it crossable. After getting to +camp went about examining the creek for a crossing, and think I have +found one that perhaps may do, but even after crossing this one the +country is like a net, intersected as it is with creeks, magnificent +pasture on the flats; a native fishing weir is a little above this. +Across the creek and you can see the fish snapping at the flies in the +holes--all the creeks indeed that I have crossed from the east have both +fish and mussels in them, but here the creeks are very formidable. Small +crown top of the hill, another very fine one some little distance south +of that; all those are on the western side of a large range, close by, +running apparently north-east and south-west. I sincerely wish I was safe +on the western side of these main creeks as I am thus driven contrary to +my wish much east. + +Wednesday, April 2. + +Started to cross the creek about three-quarters of a mile to the +eastward; but just before starting, whilst the horses were coming, two of +them got bogged and we had some difficulty in extricating them, however +we made a start; got to the crossing place--got two of the camels and two +of the horses bogged and had considerable difficulty in getting all over +safe, however did so with the exception of getting some of the things +wet, so it was late when we crossed. I at once camped to dry them and got +things put to rights for a start in the morning. Started off to get a +view of the country from a remarkable crown-topped conical hill about six +miles off, and had a most extensive view. I find that we have for the +present passed the worst of the creeks, and that now there is in view +only one of much magnitude and it bears off eastward, passing on the +south-east side of an isolated hill or double hill; they are the only +hills seen from this elevated spot from a bearing of 358 degrees round to +44 degrees southward and westward; from the forementioned of these +bearings and masses of hills jumbled together, and to south and east of +the latter bearing is another mass of hills; at the bearing itself the +hill terminates in small cones immediately east of my position; a little +to the north and a little to the south is one mass of table-topped hills, +some apparently strongly timbered on top, with a perfect wall from ten to +thirty feet perpendicular round summit of all, and some are detached. +Hunter's Island Gap, or rather the bluff on its northern side, bearing 26 +degrees from Hunter's Gorge to north and west, is round to 358 degrees in +the far distance, is a mass of table-topped ranges with, apparently, +three gaps in them. + +Thursday, April 3. + +On bearing of 110 degrees along the creek for one and a quarter miles, on +bearing of 65 1/2 degrees for three and a half miles, on bearing of 1 +degree for three and a half miles over several boggy creeks; then after +several fruitless exertions through bogs and creeks, with a large deep +strong running stream and through quagmire, was obliged to retrace my +steps and get outside of the creeks, having failed completely in getting +over them; they would swallow horses and everything we had got. Went on +bearing of 99 degrees for three and a half miles and camped on a +magnificent lagoon about one mile long and about 200 yards wide, a +perfect flower garden. + +Friday, April 4. + +Camp, Jeannie Lagoon; went and had a view from hills east; saw there +Kangaroo ranges far to the east, tier after tier, country timbered, etc. + +Saturday, April 5. + +Camp 28. At daybreak sky wild-looking to eastward; wind from south; +strong. Never in all my experience found the flies so thorough a pest as +they have been for the last week or ten days. We get on without our bread +quite as well as I expected; the vegetables we use by boiling are famous +things, both as a substitute for bread and keep the party in good health. +The natives on the main creek lower down south call it cullie; it is a +sort of spinach and does not grow more than a foot high but spreads +perhaps twice that much. Started over on bearing of 45 degrees; at three +three-eighth miles came to and crossed a broad swamp from the eastern +hills; a little further back on the right of my course appeared to be +another lagoon; at five-eighths of a mile commenced crossing low +sandhills; splendid feed all the way. Changed the course, the ground +ahead having too many high-looking sandhills. Saw a couple of natives in +the distance crossing the swamp; I crossed some considerable distance +west of them; they evidently did not see us. Cannot keep straight; there +is a large deep creek here immediately on my left, about fifty yards +wide; bearing of 60 degrees for one and a quarter miles; then bearing of +24 degrees, crossing the creek (small one); making for north-west end of +another sandhill two and a quarter miles further; then bearing of 15 +degrees, passing on the left some fine myall and sandhill country, +splendidly grassed and strongly wooded with myall and other trees of +various kinds in splendid foliage; two and a quarter miles bearing of 33 +degrees over sandy undulation on the right and innumerable creeks on the +left for one and one-eighth miles; in all sixteen and a quarter miles and +camped on some mulga near some of the branches of the creek. + +Sunday, April 6. + +Camp 29. Beautiful cold morning; what little wind there is is from the +south-west. Started away on bearing of 40 degrees for thirteen and a half +miles; first part over stony myall undulations (open) the latter part +free from stones and much less wooded except in the creeks that +constantly come in from the ranges from the eastward. As I am now passing +a couple of circular table-topped hills pretty close on the right I will +change my course for a thicket of myall and camp that I may be enabled to +ride to the height and have a view of the general course of the creek, as +what I am on is too flat to get a view at all. Changed course and camped; +distance travelled fourteen and five-eighth miles; day beautifully cool. +A tier of ranges continues on my right all along, varying from five to +eight miles distant, timbered with mulga, same as one I went on the day I +camped at Jeannie Lagoon; a mass of detached pyramids, cut and conical +coronet-topped hills are between my course and the main range and I have +the creek to the right. Not far off passed abundance of water on course +over top of Euro Hill; creek bears suddenly off westward--a likely way to +get over the range and meet it again by a gap in range bearing 349 +degrees. It appears to pass through and receive large tributaries from +the west and northward, between large leading ranges on the west and +through range with gap on the east side, that I talk of passing through +to meet it again on bearing 318 degrees, or of bearing 340 +degrees--nearer considerably than the former. This hill is a conical +coronet-topped hill of burned sandstone mixed with some quartz and is +four miles from camp, on a bearing of 157 1/2 degrees. Belts of mulga +between camp and this; the country to north-east and round by east to +south for some miles is not all good; a little spinifex and the ground +perfectly strewed with bronzed stones of various sizes; no ranges visible +from north round to north-east, but plains and mulga scrub; one larger +hill similar, but coated with spinifex and bush of various sizes, is +close by bearing 300 degrees; another about the same size as this, +thickly coated with spinifex, and a couple of bushes about 300 yards off +bears 225 degrees. Between me and main range to the east are numerous red +pyramid hills of various sizes, and southward a number of detached +table-topped hills, peaks, and mounds, all more or less timbered. Just as +I was getting up this hill a fine euro hopped off down the side some +distance off, and when I got on the top another sprang up and as I had my +pistol with me I fired and luckily killed him, so I call the hill Euro +Hill. After I had finished on the hill I disembowelled the euro and +carried it to the camp to have it used and help the meat to last; I hope +we may get plenty more. + +Monday, April 7. + +Camp 30. Exceedingly cold during the night but a beautiful morning. +Started on bearing 5 1/2 degrees for six and three-quarter miles; first +part of it over open flats with mulga creeks and watercourses, many with +water; next over burnt stony undulation with mulga watercourses; at five +miles came in amongst a quantity of detached hills of lime and sandstone; +the ground strewed with bronzed burnt small stones and takes the print of +an animal's foot readily, having a light soil under. At the end of this +distance, six and three-quarter miles, two creeks again full in view, one +apparently on bearing 9 degrees, passing above and below a small +table-topped hill, the other on bearing of 40 degrees, which I suppose I +must follow till I can cross. For five miles passing stony slopes towards +the creek and a vast abundance of vine with large yellow blossoms, the +fruit being contained in a leafy pod; that fruit when ripe contains three +or four black seeds as large as a good-sized pea. I must try them cooked +as I find the emu tracks very abundant where the vine is most plentiful. +I can from this point see the creek distinctly break off from the branch +on bearing of 354 degrees, but I must keep on the branch still; bearing +now 35 1/2 degrees. The tops of the low hills are of a whitish colour, +and an immense quantity of gypsum is scattered over them as well as over +the slopes as I came along, and the tops and slopes of the hill have +mallee with other trees and shrubs; course 35 1/2 degrees for three +three-eighth miles, first part burnt undulation of thin brown slate +gypsum cliffs for a short distance, without a shrub or bush on them; +precipitous slopes, tops alone having bushes or trees; latter part over +undulation more or less stony to creek where it turns suddenly to +northward again; bearing of 338 degrees over flooded well-grassed country +for two miles on to the main creek; a hill on opposite side within +twenty-three yards of creek bank. This is a magnificent stream here. It +is at least 250 yards wide and from forty to fifty feet down the banks to +the water, lined with noble gums, box, bean, and other trees; how deep it +is difficult to say. Lots of ducks of various kinds, cormorants, magpies, +corellas, pigeons of various kinds, with the usual accompaniment of crows +and hawks. Small hill visible in the distance to south of east; very +extensive plain in that direction also, as well as east and north of +east, with abundance of excellent pasture and timbered low ridges, stony, +but well grassed with limestone and the everlasting plum-pudding stone +with sandstone. Current in creek I should say not more than half a mile +per hour. + +Tuesday, April 8. + +Camp 31. Cool during the night with a heavy dew, beautiful morning, not a +breath of wind: keeping a short distance from the creek to cross a boggy +tributary from the east, for two and three-quarter miles, then through +timbered stony rising ground, plenty of feed; the bronzed middle-sized +pigeon of Cooper's Creek seen here; bearing of 40 degrees for two and a +quarter miles along limestone and plum-pudding slopes; part of creek on +left on bearing of 30 degrees for three and a quarter miles, timber for +building purposes to be had here in sufficient quantities; bearing of 45 +degrees for three-quarters of a mile; bearing 50 degrees for one mile; +bearing of 40 degrees three-quarters of a mile over myall open country, +some of it very stony where the flood has swept over it; now on the right +are some fine plains backed in by low myall ridges; bearing of 42 degrees +for four and three-quarter miles, the creek on the left, tributaries seem +to come in and join on opposite side, cross a creek from east in its +swamp, plenty of water (Kell's Creek); I have come to a stony +crossing-place and recross over to north-west side; the female camel +bogged but we soon got her put to rights; for the last three miles the +ground we travelled over is nearly one mass of stones, limestone and +agate or flint, and very bad travelling; the creek runs strong--I have +called it Mueller's Creek after F. Mueller of Melbourne--fifteen and a +half miles. After getting to camp got a horse and went out north of west +to a ridge some short distance off and saw to the westward a large +tributary that I think will suit my course; at little over quarter of a +mile a very large creek comes in from north of north-east and flows +southward, it has ceased running and has a broad stony bottom but has +splendid reaches of water; this I have called the Robinson after J. +Robinson, Esquire, of Hume River. Considerably to east is a well-defined +range in the distance, running north and south with three detached mounds +of hills and I have called it Mount Mueller after F. Mueller, Esquire. + +Wednesday, April 9. + +Camp 32. Heavy dew, beautiful still morning, a few fleecy clouds. +Started, bearing of 285 degrees for one and a quarter miles, at +three-eighths of a mile crossed the Robinson, at three-eighths of a mile +further crossed a nice creek with large reaches, the Mansergh; at +three-eighths of a mile further changed our mode of travel to the bearing +of 330 degrees for two and a quarter miles; then bearing 354 1/2 degrees, +spinifex hill or range close on the right, good open country travelled +over; creek on the left about two miles off, alluvial deposit on plain, +over which we travelled for six and three-quarter miles then entered a +mulga range (low) bronzed stone on the ascent but plenty of feed and +numerous traces of kangaroo. Saw lots of emu on the plains; still on +bearing of 354 1/2 degrees to creek, passing on the right a vast quantity +of spinifex and ranges of sandstone right on the banks of creek for three +and a quarter miles, crossed it on a bearing of 284 degrees +three-quarters of a mile, plenty of water, the creek I have called the +Fletcher after G.B. Fletcher, Esquire, Tapio, Darling River, New South +Wales; then bearing 295 degrees for Coronet-Topped Hill, centre of next +creek, at three miles made the creek, went one quarter of a mile into it +and camped; the last three miles has been a pipeclay, slaty, spinifex, +miserable country with detached conical, white, clay-slaty hills, top of +the range all spinifex, although timbered with a white-barrelled gum of +no great dimensions; distance travelled today seventeen and a half miles. + +Thursday, April 10. + +Camp 33. Fine morning, wind moderate, south, on bearing of 300 degrees up +the clear ground in the apparent centre of this immense creek; passed +north end of stony (sand) spinifex-topped and pipeclay, north end at one +and one-eighth of a mile; bearing of 315 degrees high bluff, +spinifex-topped, hills all along at the right of creek, except the valley +of the creek, this is the most miserable country we have been in for some +time, if you offer to ascend the ridges they are nothing but a mass of +very rough stones, spinifex, and mulga, myall, and white-stemmed +gumtrees, very difficult to travel over, three miles on 315 degrees; +obliged to change course, great part of the heavy creek, on my left, +crossing my course, and bearing up more to eastward another creek bears +off to considerably west of north, now on bearing of 285 degrees crossing +the different branches of this immense creek which I have called the +Cadell, after F. Cadell, Esquire, the enterprising and indefatigable +navigator of the Murray and Darling, etc. etc., not that he will ever be +able to steam up this length; 285 degrees for one and a quarter miles of +other creeks that appear to go off on a bearing, at present, of 200 +degrees, which I follow on its north-east side, or rather up through it, +as it is divided into innumerable branches with abundance of water; +camped at six and three-quarter miles on this course in the centre of the +creek; the hills recede a good deal from the creek and are not so +rough-looking or abrupt as they were in the morning and yesterday; the +creek I have called Middleton, after Mr. Middleton, one of our party, who +at all times has rendered me most material services and who, had I lost +him during his late severe illness I should scarcely be able to get along +without, he is always ready at the post when there is anything particular +to do. + +Friday, April 11. + +Camp 34. Fine morning; wind moderate south. This creek receives a +tributary from the southward of west about a quarter mile lower down than +this. I shall pass through this creek to north-east side, that being the +best and most open travelling, the south-west side having myall timber +from the creek to the ranges as far as visible. If the country at all +suits and, as my food cannot possibly carry me back to Adelaide, I shall +shape my course for the southern part of the Gulf of Carpentaria about +the Albert River, thence to Port Denison, then to wait instructions from +South Australia. On bearing of 45 degrees; half a mile across the +different branches of the immense creek, then on bearing of 314 degrees +along splendid plains, passing at nine and a half miles a detached small +tier of ranges running on to and ending at the creek; from the top of the +nearest one the creek appears to bear through ranges 294 1/2 degrees; +ranges on this side appear only detached and far distant from the creek, +leaving magnificent plains intervening. A small red conical hill is close +to the creek about a mile from this bearing 306 1/2 degrees. I now +recross the creek on bearing of 294 1/2 degrees as it is more suitable +for my purpose, the creek in the distance at its western bend bearing 305 +degrees about nine miles distant, at which place it receives a tributary +from the ranges to the eastward on the course of 294 1/2 degrees for +eight and a half miles. Camping on south-western side of creek, passing +over excellent country. Travelled today eighteen and a half miles. The +creek that comes in on the opposite side I have called Saville's Creek. +From this camp a coronet-shaped hill, at or near the termination of a +tier of ranges approaching the creek within five miles, bears 30 degrees, +a bluff termination of ranges from the creek on south-west side and on +south-west of our tomorrow course bears 279 1/2 degrees, about eight to +ten miles. + +Saturday, April 12. + +Camp 35. Fine morning. I have had to send back to last camp for a small +saw, carelessly left behind by the cook. On bearing of 294 1/2 degrees on +south-west side of creek direct, seven and a half miles through, the +creek came direct in my course and sheered round again north before that +distance; then bearing of 313 degrees for five and three-quarter miles, +and camped, making the stage short to await the messenger for the saw. +Wind south. Immense open downs or plains, well grassed with similar hills +to what we have passed, wanting the spinifex. Messenger arrived with saw. + +Sunday, April 13. + +Camp 36. Evenings, nights, and mornings are beautifully cool; the days +are quite hot enough. It is astonishing to see how fast the waters have +dried up. I hope that near the tops of the creeks the water will not fail +us, for up to this we have had lately much more than we want. Bearing of +336 degrees, on south-west side of creek still. Ranges now on the left +and at the distance of from thirteen to fourteen miles, appear to come +right on to the creek on both sides at two and a half miles; on bearing +of 336 degrees. Tributary from south-west side; at five miles another +tributary on same side; at six and three-quarter miles another. At +fourteen miles the hills close, those on the north-east side nearer than +the south-west side ones. At fourteen and a half miles tributary joins on +opposite side from the hill close by. At fifteen and three-quarter miles +hill (burned sandstone) comes on to the creek; the timber in the creek +nearly all white gum, the North of Adelaide native orange, and a new +fruit, something similar, that when ripe splits open down the sides +whilst still green, and grows on a low prickly shrub, leaf not unlike the +orange but longer and when near other trees or shrubs entwines itself +round them and grows to a good height. The actual distance today direct +is about fifteen miles, as the creek came in my course and receded again +before we came to camp--camped across the creek. Kirby by some +unfortunate mistake on his part did not arrive here tonight. Will send +after him first thing in the morning; burnt a blue light and made a low +fire on the top of the hill for him but without effect. + +Monday, April 14. + +No word of Kirby; sent after him, found him on the tracks some miles +away, and did not get to camp till near noon. He says he got entangled in +the creeks and could not make the tracks out. Lots of kangaroo and emu +here but shy; cloudy and hot. Looks as if we were to have a shower; I +wish we may. Camp here today. + +Tuesday, April 15. + +Camp 37. Late in starting, some horses being absent; nice cool breeze +from north-north-east--bearing of 2 1/2 degrees; creek on the left at +three-quarters of a mile, tributaries join on each side; at two and a +half miles remarkable peaky and table-topped hills on right; hills close +on both sides. At four and a half miles changed course to 8 degrees; at +one and a half miles heavy tributary came in from east-south-east, and is +I think the principal channel; completely ran the creek out north and +then followed and ran out the principal one. Retreated twice and +compelled to camp at a water in the flat a quarter of a mile north of +where I struck the creek. Distance today six and a half miles; although I +suppose I travelled treble that distance. After camping got a horse and +went out over the ranges in a west and north direction and saw what I +suppose will be a course to suit me tomorrow; otherwise it was my +intention to have taken one man and a packhorse, and pushing over the +range northward to see if we are near the north watershed, or to have +found a practicable route. Ranges are covered with spinifex and rough +stones. Hodgkinson shot a euro which will help us on and save a sheep. + +Wednesday, April 16. + +Camp 38. Started on a general bearing of 292 degrees over the ranges and +at seven miles direct got onto a large myall flat; at nine miles passing +over myall flat. Red table-topped range close on right; passed through +the mass of them and the last of the range; and changed bearing to 325 +degrees for three and a half miles, making for a gum creek that appeared +to come from the ranges from north and east. Found no water on the road +nor in the creek but fortunately some in a side creek at which place I +camped. Saw a native signalising to westward, a considerable distance. + +Thursday, April 17. + +Camp 39. Beautiful morning. Started on bearing of 305 degrees across an +extensive myall, gum, and box flat, with innumerable tributaries into it +in all directions. General drain up to the south; water in many +watercourses as we cross the flat, and must be an immense creek a little +lower down, where they all unite. Keep the course for eleven miles, +crossing a fine open creek running northward, which I think is the same +that we crossed this morning flowing south; then over spinifex ridges on +bearing of 300 degrees onto a fine open flat. Heavy ranges west. Apparent +fall of water northward; about four miles south of this and immediately +over the open undulation at the distance the flow takes place south; on +this last course two and a quarter miles; on bearing of 295 degrees for +two miles, 293 degrees for two and a quarter miles over splendid country +and camped at first creek we met with plenty of water. Unfortunately +Kirby with the sheep has got astray; and Hodgkinson, who was sent after +him in the morning to swerve him from the course he was then on and bear +up north for ours, came up to me in the midst of a spinifex range, whilst +leading on the party, with the stupid information that he could not +follow his tracks; and on being rated for so doing and sent back arrived +at 10 p.m., and never got on his tracks again but says he went back to +the camp we left in the morning--for what purpose he only knows; in +consequence the unfortunate man did not arrive at camp. I will send after +him first thing in the morning. After getting into camp I rode out south +towards the watershed but found it further off than I anticipated from +this camp. It must be from ten to fifteen miles and most excellent +country. The main range west from what I could see of it is very stony; +few trees and a great abundance of kangaroo and other grasses. Emu and +kangaroo in abundance. Range runs to east of north a little and to south +of west a little and is formidable. Distance travelled seventeen and a +half miles. + +Friday, April 18. + +Camp 40. First thing in the morning got the horses and started Middleton +and Palmer to endeavour to trace the unfortunate man Kirby who has not +made his appearance. He must have had a bitter cold night of it; this +morning south wind was as cold or colder than I have felt it for twelve +months--we were glad to get to the fire besides fortifying ourselves with +warmer clothing than usual. I with Poole started to cut his tracks if he +came out through the range on his course through open country south of +this, but were unsuccessful in finding any trace of him. Middleton and +Palmer got on his tracks and followed them to about dark when within a +very short distance of our tracks here, and more than half the distance +to this camp, and thought it not improbable, from the course he was then +pursuing, that he had got to our camp and came home but the unfortunate +had not; had he been followed the day before by Hodgkinson with the same +perseverance all would have been well and much anxiety spared to all. If +the poor man has kept to the ranges I'm afraid there is little hopes of +him--it will be a sad end for the poor fellow--a better man for his +occupation could not be found. Just fancy an unfortunate man lost between +two and three hundred miles from the coast in a perfect wild with +twenty-three sheep (and I question if he has any matches) left to sink or +swim beyond reach of any Christian soul. If he is recovered he may thank +God. Will still keep up the search for some days to come in hopes of +recovering him. Camp bearing 208 1/2 degrees about four and a half miles; +furthest north point visible of McKinlay's Range 304 degrees, from thirty +to forty miles. No range visible between that and 18 1/2 degrees. Nothing +but heavily timbered creeks, innumerable tributaries from both sides and +south end. Exact course of main creek not positively discernible, but for +the first twenty miles from camp it bears much east, from Observation +Hill it appears as far east as 3 degrees--termination of McKinlay's Range +as visible from camp on bearing 341 degrees. Furthest southern point of +McKinlay's Range as visible from Observation Hill 214 degrees. Some miles +beyond the watershed south, hill where watershed takes place about six +miles from camp bears from the Hill Observation 216 degrees from camp. + +Saturday, April 19. + +Horses sent for per first light; night very cold again. Not having had +anything in the shape of food since the morning Kirby was lost, except a +couple or three spoonfuls of flour each in water, I determined, Kirby not +yet arriving, to kill one of our bullocks; had them up to camp and shot +one in the grey of the morning; three now remaining; in the event of +Kirby not being found with the sheep all correct, not very bright +prospect for the party to travel to the Gulf and round to Port Denison +upon; certainly we have the horses but I would be loath to kill them +except in extreme need, but I will still hope for the best, but cannot +stay beyond a week whether found or not, as our provisions, beef, will be +lessening daily; the flour we still have is a small quantity reserved in +case of sickness and for the purpose of putting a small quantity daily in +our soup to make it appear more substantial; at present the vegetable the +party were all so fond of has disappeared except some old dry remnants +which all feel the want of much. I hope it may reappear. After cooking +some of the liver etc. for breakfast and some to take with them, started +Middleton and Palmer again to follow up Kirby's tracks from where they +left them, and started Bell back to the last camp to examine minutely the +track as he went along, and all about the camp in case he may have +retraced his steps, which is what he ought to have done. By noon of same +day, on our not making our appearance on his course, I started out and +skirted the foot of the range where he ought to come out on his course, +but was unsuccessful in finding the slightest trace of the unfortunate +man. What thoughts must pass in his mind. Not a probability of ever again +seeing anyone of his own colour. Possibly destroyed by the natives whose +fires are to be seen daily, although they don't make their +appearance--never again to see his home nor his friends; it must be awful +for the poor man. Dusk now setting in I have better hopes of his recovery +as neither of the three horsemen have made their appearance. Just at dark +up rides Middleton with the joyous intelligence that man and sheep are +found, Palmer staying behind to push on and overtake Bell and Kirby with +the sheep on our track here, and Middleton took a more direct route here +to give information of the good news, at which all of us were glad and +thankful. About 11 p.m. horsemen, Kirby, and sheep arrived safe, and I +was truly grateful for the deliverance. The poor man says he never +expected to see us again. Bell fortunately picked him up within three +miles of our last camp; he was then, after having been considerably +south, and now completely bewildered and thinking he had missed the camp +while travelling in the dark, steering a north-west course, and in ten +minutes longer would have been on our track for this place. Middleton and +Palmer had traced him throughout; and as they found they were drawing +near our track Palmer went to the track to see if anything was to be seen +of him there, and called out to Middleton that they were found, and gone +towards home on the tracks, when Middleton immediately started with the +information, leaving Palmer to follow and overtake and assist them to +camp with the sheep. The man Kirby on arrival was completely worn out, +not for want of food but with a troubled mind and want of sleep. He had +killed a sheep the second night after leaving last camp and had with him +a small portion for his use. How thankful he must have been to see Bell! + +Sunday, April 20. + +Very cold morning. Kirby sleeping and recruiting himself. The meat +drying; in consequence of the last detention it has put us far back from +where we otherwise would have been, and the course appears pretty open to +us now. + +Monday, April 21. + +No dew last night, still the meat is unfit to pack, will have to give it +today still, and then will make a start in the morning. A splendid large +creek flows west of south over the fall of water, and at fifteen to +sixteen miles from this there is abundance of water in it, and must +increase wonderfully as it goes southward and receives its various +tributaries. I have called it the Hamilton after G. Hamilton, Esquire, +Inspector of Police, Adelaide. The one flowing south from our last camp +(39) I have called the Warburton, after the Commissioner of Police, P.E. +Warburton, Esquire, of Adelaide. The range between the two going south I +have called Crozier's Range after John Crozier, Esquire, Murray River. +The ranges west side of the Hamilton going southward I have called +William's Ranges. From the division of waters the ranges west of this and +the creek flowing northwards, a branch of which we are now on, I have +called McKinlay Creek and Ranges; I only hope the creek may hold a course +west of north. The ranges on the east side of this creek going northward +I have called Kirby's Ranges to remind him of his narrow escape. +Tributaries come into this creek south of this position, and west and +east as far as I can discern from top of range, about five miles +north-north-east of this; there is abundance of water in many of the +minor as well as the main creeks; mussels in all. Magnificent pasture all +around and lots of game but wild. + +Tuesday, April 22. + +Camp 40. We have been here now since the afternoon of Thursday last the +17th, and high time it is that we make some progress. Wind south-east; +cold dewless nights; the meat has dried after a fashion but not +sufficient for keeping any length of time without further exposure to sun +and air--which we must do as soon as we get to camp for several days. +Kirby has now quite recovered and we start on a bearing of 345 degrees. I +call this small creek Black-eyes Creek--after the bullock we slaughtered +here; at three and three-quarter miles crossed the what appears main +channel of the creek coming from west-south-west, and various others +coming in all directions; this is an immense creek, sandy and gravelly +bed, with large and to me perfectly new trees, with short and broad dark +green leaf and often clustering in fine saplings from the bottom and +growing to a good height; also some fine gums. Creek now on the right; +country after crossing the creek is splendidly grassed and firm sound +ground between creek and range which is some distance off; but we will be +gradually approaching it on our present course. At seven and a half miles +crossed sandy creek from west; at ten one-eighth miles crossed large deep +creek from west, at twelve miles sandy creek from west; and at fourteen +miles sandy creek from west; at fourteen and a quarter miles large sandy +creek, west, with water in sand; went down the creek east for a quarter +of a mile to water and camped at the junction of the other creek we +crossed a short distance back with this; the creek immediately below this +is about 300 yards wide with excellent timber; there has been a little +spinifex during today's travel but the bulk of it has been well-grassed +and fresh varieties of good sound country; a specimen of copper picked up +in one of the creeks; a great abundance of quartz and mica strewed +everywhere. I think I forgot to mention that at the division of waters on +the low bald undulations limestone is strewed about in large and small +circular pieces from the size of a saucer to three and four feet in +diameter, besides large blocks of it; the hills on the west are of a hard +stone between flint and sandstone, strewed about with quartz; the eastern +one is of burned slate or clay, pretty much resembling many that we have +already passed and what I was on, topped with spinifex, and the side with +good grasses. + +Wednesday, April 23. + +Camp 41. Mild night, wind light from west; started on a bearing of 345 +degrees. A fresh broad-bean from a fine runner found here but rather +green to obtain seed from; may get some ripe further north. A couple of +small fish about two and a half to three inches long are in this +waterhole, came up at the flood no doubt and left here. The horses are +gone back on their old tracks and the two men who went after them, like +idiots, got about half of them and retraced their steps to camp, afraid +no doubt to go off the tracks to look after them in case they should get +lost--this I am sorry to say is not an uncommon occurrence and has all +along pestered me very much, and has in many instances caused vast +detention; the worst of it is that some of them instead of improving in +following tracks appear to me to be getting daily more stupid. The sheep +and bullocks I have sent on on the proper bearing, so that if it is even +late when the horses are found they can be overtaken and a journey made; +but it does not give me an opportunity of finding water and good camp as +I otherwise would be able to do getting them in a proper time. Wind at 10 +a.m. changed to east-north-east, beautiful morning. At middle of the day, +the horses not making their appearance, I sent after the sheep and +bullocks and had them turned back to camp; they arrived at sunset and the +horses just arrived at the same time, having strayed amongst the spinifex +a considerable distance. I took a horse and went to the nearest hill +about seven miles distant to observe the course of the main creek, but +the day proving warm and misty I did not get so distinct a view as I +anticipated, it was extensive enough but indistinct although the +elevation I was on must have been more than 3000 feet from level of the +creek, and much higher ranges on to west of it; from top of it portions +of the main range appear in the far distance at 347 1/2 degrees; no other +eminence round the horizon to 95 degrees; the whole intervening space +filled with creeks running in all directions towards the main creek, that +must be distant from the hill I was on easterly nearly twenty miles with +an apparent northerly course; this hill is detached from the main mass of +range and distant from four to five miles. It and the most of the +intervening space between the camp and it is literally one mass of quartz +and quartz-reefs, mica, etc., and on top of range is a sort of flaggy +slate, all apparently having undergone the action of fire--this range I +have called Sarah's Range; it bears from camp 323 degrees seven miles; a +great deal of spinifex and abrupt creeks between camp and it, not a speck +of gold visible but it appears to have undergone the action of fire; this +is another day lost. Such detention makes me quite irritable and fidgety. + +Thursday, April 24. + +Camp 41. Night mild, warm morning. Bearing of 345 degrees for three +miles, within which distance three tributaries from the range from the +west cross us, not of any great size. Change course to 352 degrees, the +ground being rather stony and full of spinifex, and the side creeks very +sandy, and little hopes of water for the animals although plenty could be +had for our own use. At one mile, tributary; at two miles another; four +and a quarter miles another; at seven miles junction of two, where we +camp; although the distance is short, the bullocks being absent this +morning when I left camp, and it appears had gone towards our old camp +about eight miles before they were overtaken. I hope all the animals will +be at hand in the morning to enable us to make a good day of it tomorrow. +Just below the junction of these two creeks (although the southern one is +only a small one and in it we got the water) the creek is from 250 to 300 +yards broad with splendid gums in it on its banks. Although I searched up +and down the main creek some distance still no water to be found, the bed +of the creek is so very sandy. My reason for camping at so short a stage +was that from the top of the hill I was on I fancy I could discern a +continuation of dry-looking country beyond this creek. Very little +spinifex on the way today; plenty of grass and very good travelling; +masses of quartz and mica all along our tracks; ridges low with some +spinifex run in considerably to the east towards the main creek--lots of +myall and other shrubs. The natives are busy burning on the ranges some +distance west of this and have been burning daily ever since we came on +the creek, and I suppose are still unaware of our presence or they would +have paid us a visit. For the last 150 miles at least there have been on +the slopes and tops of all the ranges decaying red anthills, not tenanted +and gradually decaying--many of them appearing like sharp spires and +washed in every shape by the rains and the weather. + +Friday, April 25. + +Camp 42. Mild night, warm morning. Animals all at hand for a good start. +Bearing of 352 degrees; crossed good-sized creek at three and a half +miles; another good-sized creek at eight miles; and at ten and a quarter +miles another, but deep. During first part of the journey over good open +white gum and myall forest; last part ridgy, with spinifex; quartz all +the way; at twelve miles and a half crossed creek; at fourteen and a half +miles crossed creek; native got water by digging in the sand; at sixteen +and a quarter miles changed course to 5 degrees, the ridges and spurs +coming too much in my way; four and three-quarter miles on this last +bearing to a mound of slabs of sparkling stony-like mica, about fifty +feet, and two mounds of similar form, but wooded on the right, no water; +left Middleton here to tell them to camp for the night and watch the +animals, and went myself westward to endeavour to find water for them in +the morning and found it at three miles on bearing of 301 degrees, so +returned; met them just having dinner; repacked and led them to +water--distance travelled twenty-four miles. This is an immense creek and +is still flowing slowly through and over the sand in its bed; it is +upwards of 300 yards wide, comes from the west and south through the +ranges, joins another about a mile north of this and passes round a small +stony hill on its right bank, then takes a northerly course then, and +lastly as far as I could discern, a north-east course. Very heavy gum +timber. I am sorry to say today our marking chisel was lost so we will +not be able to mark any more trees. The creek I have called the Marchant +after William Marchant, Esquire, of Mananarie. The main creek is now a +very considerable distance east. I hoped to have struck it before this +but the spurs from the main range keep it off. Passed today a vast number +of smaller tributaries from west; immense reefs and masses of quartz and +small ranges composed of shining slabs of a grey, tough and wavy stone +with masses of quartz. A good deal of spinifex but no scrub to interrupt +us. Will make for a distant low spur of main range tomorrow in my course. + +Saturday, April 26. + +Camp 43. Very mild night; a great many clouds; a likelihood of rain. +Started on bearing of 336 degrees over a vast quantity of strong +spinifex; bad travelling although not very stony. Not so much quartz +today although large piles of it are to be seen. Crossed Marchant's Creek +and at one mile crossed a tributary. At ten miles came to a very fine +creek about 400 yards broad, in one of its branches from sixty to eighty +yards; broad water completely fills the space as far as you can see +southward and westward. I have called it the Williams after Edward +Williams, Esquire, of the North of Adelaide. Immense holes in a light +blue rock in the creek a few hundred yards north of this full of water +and apparently very deep, an abundance immediately beyond in the creek, +which appears to flow northward. I have come rather a short journey today +as the sheep and bullocks had no time to feed yesterday. Very cloudy and +sultry. Lots of small fish in this creek, none yet seen longer than three +inches; amongst them are a lot of fish about the same size or a little +larger, with fine vertical black stripes commencing at the shoulder and a +black tip to lower part of tail--body generally lighter-coloured than the +other fish. + +Sunday, April 27. + +Camp 44, Williams Creek. Mild night, not so like rain this morning. +Bearing of 355 degrees crossing this creek at an acute angle, crossed +this creek again at three miles, crossed again at five miles--creek close +on the right; at six and one-eighth miles crossed a deep tributary at its +junction--heavy timber, plenty of water. Williams Creek still close on +the right full of spinifex on the slopes and short rough abrupt creeks; +bad travelling; at seven and three-quarter miles commenced travelling in +bed of the creek, west side, till eight and three-quarter miles, the +creek bearing off more to the east. At present I keep on my course of 355 +degrees, over good country the latter part of course. At thirteen miles +came to and crossed a splendid creek with abundance of water and lots of +fish coming from the hills west and flowing apparently east. This creek I +have called the Elder after Thomas Elder, Esquire, of Adelaide. + +Monday, April 28. + +Camp 45, Elder's Creek. Last night we slept in the bed of the creek on +the sand. There must have been a terrific flood here lately, such as this +part of the world has not been visited with for many years; between +thirty and forty feet over our heads in the bed of this creek are now to +be seen logs, grass, and all sorts of rubbish left by it; and immense +trees torn up by the roots, and others broken off short at twenty to +thirty feet from their roots--showing the violence of the current. No +doubt there is plenty of permanent water in the range further up in the +last three creeks we have camped on. Mild morning with fleecy clouds. +Wind south-south-west. Another deep creek joins this where we struck it, +coming more from the south-west; water at its junction with this. Plenty +of water up this creek; did not go down it. Our journey today on bearing +of 355 degrees over sixteen and three-quarter miles was over good, +lightly-timbered, well-grassed country and a good deal of flooded +country. Saw no water but lots of birds. Shot an emu. Changed course to +347 degrees for a small hill in the distance and at two and a half miles +crossed several irregular watercourses from the north flowing to south +and east; went then to a small spinifex rise, timbered. At eight and a +half miles struck a creek with water; I have called it Poole's Creek +after Mr. R.T. Poole of Willaston. Distance travelled today twenty-five +and a half miles. After getting into camp myself and Middleton went on to +the hill in front and at two and a quarter miles arrived at it. It is +perfectly detached and stands in the open plain--is very stony or rather +rocky. Open plains to the north and west as far as you can discern; to +the north-north-east appears dark timber which I hope to be the main +creek, and appears to be bearing to north and west. A couple of isolated +hills from fifteen to twenty miles off bearing respectively, the southern +one 251 1/2 degrees, the northern one 254 degrees. The southern one I +have called Mount Elephant, the one to the north Mount McPherson, and the +one I am on Margaret. Another in the distance bearing 258 degrees. + +Tuesday, April 29. + +Camp 46, Poole's Creek. This creek takes its rise from the westward on +the plains between this and the hills which are now a considerable +distance from us; and after passing this encampment bears to east round +by north. Mild morning, wind easterly. Shot two young emus. Pass over +immense plains with small belts of bushes here and there and in places +more especially near the isolated hill on the plain. At eleven and a +quarter miles further came to a watercourse from the westward and flowing +considerably to north of east with plenty of water. Camped to give sheep +and bullocks time to feed, as it was half-past 8 p.m. ere they reached +their camp last night, and one of the bullocks considerably lame. +Distance travelled about thirteen and a half miles. Instead of plains, as +I have called this open country, it is rather very gentle undulations and +a considerable portion of it occasionally inundated as for instance of +late. Another large waterhole in this course at about a mile on bearing +of 355 degrees; the creek then appears to bear off to the eastward. I +will still hold on my course of 15 degrees, but would sooner it were 25 +degrees west of north as on that course I would be going pretty direct +for the mouth of the River Albert, now I imagine about 150 miles distant, +if the watch has not put me too much out--it stops sometimes and when it +does go it gains one hour in twelve. + +Wednesday, April 30. + +Camp 47. Blackfellows burning grass to east-south-east of us; the first +bushfire we have seen; morning pleasant with wind from south-south-east. +Some or nearly all complained of being sick after eating the first emu, +but I liked it much and so did some of the others; they are a great +acquisition and have saved us three sheep; the largest weighed when ready +for the pot forty-eight pounds; the smaller ones when ready for use +thirty-one and thirty-three pounds, and are much better than the old one. +The grass passed over yesterday although abundant is rank and not of that +sweet description we have before seen, but no doubt excellent for cattle +and horses. Just as the animals were being brought in for packing Davis +found, in a small shallow pool nearly dry, numbers of small nice-looking +fish of two sorts--longest not more than three and a half inches; one +sort like the catfish of the Murray, the other spotted like a salmon. For +five miles over timbered plains on a bearing of 345 degrees; at three and +a half miles struck a small creek coming from west and south with plenty +of water; and at five and a quarter miles further an immense deep creek +with water (gum) crossed at rightangles from the western banks which are +very precipitous. I have called it the Jessie. At six miles came to and +crossed a noble river, now a creek as it is not running, but plenty of +water; from 300 to 400 yards broad. At crossing the first, cabbage palm +seen on its western bank between this and the last creek; on left of +course is a splendid belt of white gums on the dry sound flat; this +river, like the other creek, flows from south of west after crossing a +northerly and easterly course; I have called it the Jeannie after a young +lady friend of mine. At fourteen and a half miles came to a fine lagoon +running easterly and westerly; good water in abundance; went round it and +camped north-west side, as the natives are firing close by on the +south-east side; distance nineteen and a half miles. For some +considerable distance back it has been an open timbered country; plenty +of myall and useful white butt gum; drainage as yet all to the east and +slightly north. I thought the Jeannie bore more north but it bore off +again to the eastward; no game of any kind seen today except a turkey; a +great quantity of vines on which grows four or five black fruit, like +peas and extremely hard, from every flower, and on which the emu appears +to feed much. There were also two other vines or runners on which grow an +oblong fruit about one to one and a half inches long, green like +cucumber, but bitter; the other is a round fruit about the size of a +walnut, darker in colour than the other, not so abundant, and which the +emu seems to exist much on at present. Some seeds of each and many +shrubs, flowers, and fruits before new to me I have obtained. A number of +partially-dried lagoons all round this about three-quarters of a mile +long; one is about six feet deep; a very fine sheet of water. + +Thursday, May 1. + +Camp 48. Beautiful cool breeze from east-south-east; one native seen by +Palmer (who was behind with the bullocks) running the tracks of the +horses and camels, but when he saw Palmer he was off at full speed; it is +strange we don't fall in with more of them in a country where there +appears to be lots of food and water for them; started on bearing of 330 +degrees, at 120 yards crossed a partially dry lagoon, at a quarter of a +mile another, then splendid open forest, well timbered and grassed; at +two and a quarter miles struck a creek flowing about 20 degrees north of +east, deep sandy bed, no water, followed it down for one mile bearing 70 +degrees and crossed, not being able to get up the opposite banks being so +abrupt; although there is no water here no doubt from the look of the +creek there is abundance both above and below, dead palm tree branches +amongst the creek-wash; bearing of 330 degrees through splendid open +forest and well grassed; at one mile crossed the same creek flowing to +north of west, at three and a quarter miles struck it again and crossed +it flowing to north of east, and just in a turning to north, still no +water in its bed, at three and three-quarter miles struck it again but +did not cross it, it appearing to bear to north-east out of our tracks; +bearing of 290 degrees one mile, creek on right hand; bearing of 330 +degrees five miles; then bearing of 322 1/2 degrees for one and +three-quarter miles; bearing of 330 degrees three miles over open plains +with a few shrubs occasionally, came to a small creek flowing to north of +east, plenty of water; distance travelled seventeen and three-quarter +miles; the grass on all the very open country was very dry and little +substance in it, along the large creek passed and crossed various times +reeds first met with; the large creek when last seen was bearing to west +of north a long distance off, beyond an open plain; the creek I am now +upon divides into several branches just here, which makes this one so +small. Shot a new bird--dark grey, large tail, something like a pheasant +in its flight; it always starts from the ground and settles awkwardly on +the trees, its tail appearing a nuisance to it; the specimen shot is too +much torn for preservation. The days now are very warm and the nights +very agreeable. Short as the time is since they must have had the rain +here it is astonishing how it has dried up in many places. The large +creek crossed yesterday I have called the William after a young friend of +mine. + +Friday, May 2. + +Camp 49. Beautiful morning; wind south-south-west. Bearing 330 degrees +over a plain and at three miles crossed a watercourse flowing east; at +three and three-quarter miles crossed another with plenty of water on +right hand flowing to north of east; at seven and three-quarter miles +came to and crossed a narrow deep creek, plenty water, about fifty yards +wide, and have named it the Dugald, flowing north-north-east; small +ranges visible at crossing this creek; beyond a plain at south-west; nice +open forest before crossing this creek; at ten and a quarter miles over +small stony plain, or rather bald hill, as it ascends and descends; came +to and crossed a box and gum small watercourse; dry at crossing; first +part over plain and latter part over myall forest undulations; at twelve +and three-quarter miles came to irregular small creeks flowing to +north-north-east, plenty of water; at eighteen miles came to a small +creek from the ridges on our left with sufficient water for all useful +purposes. From the last creek, undulations of fair and spinifex country; +and slopes of ridges covered with spinifex (slopes to northward). At this +creek there are a number of beautiful shady trees, leaves about four or +five inches broad and from five to six inches long; besides gums and +various other trees. Spinifex on both sides of the creek down to its +edge. A hill of no great height ahead of us in our course for tomorrow. +Saw plenty of turkey. + +Saturday, May 3. + +Camp 50. Fleecy clouds; wind east-south-east, blew pretty strong towards +morning. Started on bearing of 330 degrees; for first three miles over +spinifex ridge then small grass flat and another small spinifex ridge; at +four miles over a good-sized plain (drainage all towards south and west +towards heavy timber--where there is I suppose a large creek or river +from the south) and across a small spinifex stony range. Cleared it at +twelve and a quarter miles, following along the slopes of the hills, +drainage west and north; at fourteen miles came to a watercourse, +drainage north, abundance of water; followed along numerous watercourses +both on right and left with plenty of water, and along what is here the +principal creek--not so much water in it although it is better defined. +Camped at sixteen miles. The feed on the open ground is as dry as tinder +and not at all of first-class quality, the only green feed being about +the creek and watercourses. A great abundance of those fine shady +broad-leaved trees; they would be a great ornament in a park; it bears an +abundance of seed but not ripe at present although I have taken some of +it. Very sultry. + +Sunday, May 4. + +Camp 51. Mild night and morning. Our small stock of sheep got out of the +fold in the night and half of them are missing this morning; I hope they +may be got. Sky a good deal overcast. Wind east. I am glad that the +missing sheep, after a little looking for, were found close by; the loss +of them would have deprived us of at least seven days' food, which would +be no light matter in a country where we seldom can even shoot a duck, +much less sufficient for all the party who are now, I am happy to say, in +excellent health. As this creek--which I have called Davis Creek after +one of the party--bears a good deal on my course of yesterday, and has a +good many irregularities near the bank which make it rough travelling, I +have changed my course to north-west or 315 degrees; at one mile cleared +the creek although it keeps pretty close on my present course and appears +to be hemmed in on the right by the last ridge I crossed yesterday; then +over plains and belts of myall gum; at five and three-quarter miles +crossed a small creek flowing northward over similar country, but more +sound; at ten and a half miles crossed a couple of small creeks flowing +northward (the natives burning a short distance on our left); then over a +variety of fair open country and a small portion of very thick and +scrubby myall forest; then over spinifex ridge; then over well grassed +tablelands for several miles; then over pretty thickly timbered spinifex +rise of considerable length; and lastly for the last five miles over +plains, light belts of timber here and there; got to a creek with +sufficient water at twenty-seven and three-quarter miles. Long day, +rather; did not see a drop of water the whole way, but I fancy we could +have had what we desired at the early part of the day but we did not +require it. The sheep and bullocks got to camp about 8 o'clock p.m., an +astonishing journey for the poor little fellows; they are now, with the +constant travelling and the long coarse grass, falling off in condition, +but had they the feed they were accustomed to they would be much better; +as it is they are far from poor--kidneys well-covered yet and fairish +caul fat. + +Monday, May 5. + +Camp 52. Mild night with dew and calm, still morning; very cloudy and +rainy-like to north and south of east. Heard a native wailing for some +lost friend or relation during the night but as yet have seen none of +them, although they were burning on left of our track yesterday within +two miles. This creek comes from southward and flows to west of north +considerably; it is well defined with box timber, but not at all deep; it +appears more like a side creek to a larger stream. There is here a +considerable plain on both sides and as yet no main creek visible +although I fancy there must be one, all the drainage yesterday being to +left of our course, no doubt to meet some large creek to south and west. +Started on bearing of 315 degrees; crossed the creek obliquely at +starting; then over a plain; at three and a quarter miles into a mulga +forest, or rather belts of it, and amongst which there was at three and a +quarter miles a swamp with water; then over plains and a gentle rise, +thinly interspersed with small lots of shrubs and thin belts of timber +(light); at thirteen and a half miles to a watercourse, sufficient water +for our use, although rather opaque, but we can easily put up with that +once in a way. I have made the journey short today in consequence of +yesterday's one being so long. At the conclusion of today's stage from my +calculations it places me exactly on Gregory's track, twenty miles east +of where he crossed the Leichhardt River. I hope in reality it may be so, +but I am hardly sanguine enough to expect it, taking everything into +consideration--bad time-keeping watch and nothing to go by but the guess +of your horse's pace. + +Tuesday, May 6. + +Camp 53. Dull morning, cloudy, wind south-south-west. A vast number of +galahs, corellas, macaws, cockatoo parrots, hawks, and crows here. +Started on bearing of 310 degrees over alternate plains and through belts +of small timber. At seven miles passed swampy country where some heavy +belts of timber are to the right of course. A great number of birds; +water I am sure could be had if required; over alternate plains and +strips of forest as before. At seventeen and three-quarter miles came to +a native camp near swamp (water). Saw two of them in the distance some +few miles further, but they scampered off and I did not go after them. +Over similar country, latterly more open and even. At twenty-two and a +half miles struck the Leichhardt River at what appears an island. Plenty +of deep water; banks too precipitous for the animals to water. Followed +down it bearing 330 degrees for two and a half miles and came to a bend +of the river. Good sound watering-place; shingly and sandy beach for +about a mile. Camped near the upper end of it. Hodgkinson caught a small +fish; large one seen but not caught. It is a splendid river and from bank +to bank is from 150 to 180 yards where we are encamped; but the water is +here and for nearly a mile confined to a space of fifteen to twenty +yards. Here on the western side, and a little further in at a +crossing-place on the eastern side where it is still running a nice +little stream, stony bottom, and only a couple or three yards wide. + +Wednesday, May 7. + +Camp 54. Very dull morning and sultry; every appearance of rain, sky +perfectly overcast. Started down bed of river on east side on bearing of +37 degrees for one and one-eighth miles; crossed; a quarter of a mile on +bearing of 220 degrees; bearing 260 degrees for one mile, following along +the western banks of river, where it is full of sand and timber, and +fully 500 yards wide; bearing 282 degrees, still along the banks for half +a mile; then bearing of 310 degrees as the river goes suddenly off north +and eastward; one mile on last bearing through, since crossing river, +pretty open forest land; on bearing of 352 degrees at one and a quarter +miles came to a fine lagoon or swamp with plenty of water and green +grass; bearing of 352 degrees, at half a mile further crossed a deep dry +creek going west to or by the swamp, at one and a half miles further came +to and crossed a deepish creek from the south and west, sandy bottom +(water); at one and three-quarter miles further struck the river, plenty +of fresh water, and good crossing if necessary; at two and three-quarter +miles further came to a nice lagoon, plenty of water and feed, river +apparently some distance off, on the right; at seven and three-quarter +miles further over open forest and plains with light timber. Seeing no +chance of water ahead changed course for the Leichhardt; bearing of 109 +1/2 degrees for 3 and one-third miles to river; crossed it and camped in +the sandy bed; lots of stones for the last two miles and stony about the +riverbank. + +Thursday, May 8. + +Camp 55. Strong south breeze, all appearance of rain blown away. Started +on bearing of 355 degrees, water in the way; at one mile, between the +start and that, there were stones and a little spinifex; then over open +plains, small belts of clumps of small trees; halted at nine and a half +miles; water quite sufficient for our use. I never saw such flights of +Sturt's pigeons--at times completely darkening the ground over which they +flew--a vast body of them seem to be wending their way to north-west from +south-east, but vast numbers are here on the plains notwithstanding; +natives burning on the Leichhardt in all directions, and one or two fires +towards the Albert; took Middleton with me to ascertain what kind of +country there is between camp and coast. On bearing of 355 degrees at six +miles came to and crossed a creek, plenty of water, flowing to +north-north-east; at sixteen and a half miles struck a creek with heavy +box and gum timber, and water where we struck it in small lagoons and +side creeks. Camped; natives burning ahead of us and a little east. A +great portion of the country we have come over from camp is inundated and +has now coarse grass and reeds. This creek flows here about north; south +of this it comes more to the north-north-east. + +Friday, May 9. + +Middleton and I still out; party in camp. Started on bearing of 40 +degrees; wind strong, south; at three and a half miles struck the creek, +now a very considerable size and flowing to the eastward and a little +south; followed it for a quarter of a mile, keeping it on the left on +bearing of about 110 degrees, and crossed it at a long grassy flat; in +its bed native wurlies between where we first struck it and crossed it; +bearing of 40 degrees, long deep reach of water, banks well defined; +bearing of 40 degrees, at three-quarters of a mile, creek, recrossed same +on a bed of lava, all rent, abundance of water; at five and a half miles +further struck the Leichhardt, its bed vast sheets of stones--rocks and +small stones opposite side, lower down--the water in its bed is about or +upwards of 150 yards wide; at two miles, bearing of about 210 degrees, +struck the river at a stony and rocky fall and went westward half a mile +to avoid the bend; struck river again at three miles on same course as +above; then at four miles struck the river, water in its full width now +upwards of 250 yards, a splendid-looking place, and lined on its banks +with splendid timber of various kinds, with a variety of palms, etc.; +then to the southward of south-west for between six and eight miles, but +the rugged banks were so intricate that it was impossible to calculate +the distance correctly; in a great many places, half a mile from the +riverbanks, the plains drop off precipitously from three to ten feet, and +slope off in undermined deep earthy creeks, finishing at last in deep +reedy creeks close to the river; water in nearly all the side creeks and +compelled us to keep out, but sometimes we were caught in them, thinking +the timber we were advancing to was a lagoon or belt of timber, and then +we were compelled to go round it; then cross a very fine creek running +into the river the same, I believe, we crossed yesterday about six miles +from camp on our outward course. From this to our camp I make out about +thirteen miles on a bearing of about 200 degrees; got to camp about 8 +p.m., for the last seven miles guided by a roman candle shot off at the +camp. Fireworks are most useful in expeditions of this kind as in many +cases some of our party have been guided up to camp near midnight. + +Saturday, May 10. + +Camp 56. Very cold during the night; in the morning wind south-east but +beautiful weather. Started on bearing of 20 degrees over land subject to +frequent inundations, with reeds thinly scattered over it and narrow belt +of small timber. At twelve miles came to and crossed the creek seen on +our way out on Thursday afternoon last, about six miles from camp (56 the +camp). At thirteen miles struck a lagoon, then another, and another at +fourteen and a quarter miles, all of which have abundance of water; at +the last of which I encamped, excellent feed. I forgot to mention that +yesterday on return to camp from first striking in Leichhardt's River I +observed apparently a native firing the grass a short distance on my +right. I made towards it and saw one coming steadily towards us, still +spying us, retreated at full speed; as I had some fish-hooks and line I +was determined to pull him or her up. Started off and overtook what +turned out to be a gin and her piccaninie, and had a load of something, +which in her retreat she dropped. She screamed and cooeed and set fire to +the grass all around us to endeavour to get rid of us, but all to no +purpose. I held out to her a fish-hook but she would not take them to +look at even, but busied herself screaming and firing the grass; upon +which I got off the horse and approached her. She immediately lifted up +her yam-stick in the position the men throw their spears, and prepared to +defend herself, until at last she quieted down on observing the +fish-hook, and advanced a step or two and took it from me, evidently +knowing the use of it. I then gave her a line and another hook, and by +signs explained to her that I would return in the direction the day +following. She wished me to understand something, holding up four of her +fingers, but what she meant I could not guess. I tried to make out from +her how far the coast was, making motions as if paddling a canoe, but +could not get any information; as soon as we were clear off she set to +work to make an immense smoke to attract the notice of her people to give +them the news. This afternoon three of the party went over +east-south-east about three-quarters of a mile to the river and caught +about a dozen fish of small size and three different sorts, and a turtle +about a foot long. The river during the day has almost always been in +sight from thirty six miles off till crossing the creek, when it was not +more than one mile off. + +Sunday, May 11. + +Camp 57. Could not have finer weather for travelling; abundance of feed, +though on anything like high ground it has shed its seed and is now dry; +plenty of good water as yet and fair feed round it generally. Lagoons +wooded round generally with rusty gum, box, and white gum; wind +east-south-east and pleasant. Started to clear some broken slopes ahead +towards the river on bearing of 345 degrees. At two miles over plains +came to and crossed a creek running into the river about a mile off; at +two and a quarter miles changed course to 9 degrees, over open +country--generally sloping to north-east from river with plenty of water +on each side; at six and three-quarter miles struck the river at the +falls. Messenger overtook me to say that one of the bullocks we had been +using for the pack could not be brought on so determined to kill and jerk +him; and went west half a mile on a small creek with running water and +where the feed was better and more green than on the river. The bullock +was got to camp about evening and slaughtered; plenty of guardfish, +swordfish, and sharks under the falls, which are about fifty to sixty +feet high with no current. Deep water above and below, and water oozing +through the fissures of the rock which appears a sort of burnt limestone +and indifferent agate. Found an eatable fruit on a handsome tree of the +palm kind. + +Monday, May 12. + +Camp 58. Wind south-south-west; not an ounce of fat upon the bullock; +won't take so long to jerk. I started out today to examine the country +ahead, taking with me Middleton and Poole. At one mile over plain 5 +degrees; changed course to 355 degrees; at five and a half miles struck +the river and changed course to 285 degrees; at five-sixths of a mile +struck and crossed creek from south to river; at two and five-sixths +miles crossed smaller one from same direction; at a quarter of a mile +further changed course to 340 degrees; at eleven and three-quarter miles +over very bad travelling country, plains subject to much inundation, to a +creek running into the river with splendid water and feed; at twelve and +a half miles came to the river, with an immense sand-spit opposite; +appears to be within the influence of the sea and is about 600 yards wide +and dry half across. A number of pelicans up some distance; water either +brackish a little or with some other peculiarity about it. Started for +apparently another bend of the river, on bearing of 329 degrees. One and +three-quarter miles saw a lagoon, on the left ahead; and as the horses +are tired will bear for it and turn them out. Course 282 degrees, +three-quarters of a mile; abundance of water and feed; lots of geese, +ibis, ducks, and spoonbills. North three-quarters of a mile from this is +the river, about 500 yards wide, treeless on the west bank and cliffs +about twenty to thirty feet high, all round an immense sweep; sandy beach +opposite, within the influence of the sea, a rise and fall of four feet +observed--and at high-water a little brackish. Caught a few fish; the +only thing we had for supper; would have done well had there been +sufficient of them. + +Tuesday, May 13. + +Started on bearing of 330 degrees for a distant point like river timber +which turned out to be a small hill or ridge with spinifex; a lagoon on +the left at its base; struck it at five miles. At five and a half miles +changed course to 355 degrees; at ten miles first part over firm, small, +stony plains, good country; then at four miles crossed a salty timberless +creek; and then over a succession of salt swampy flats with grassy plots +intervening. Middleton's mare Counterfeit knocked up and he had to stay +with her. I and Poole went on on a bearing of 355 degrees still; at two +miles came to a mangrove creek; at two and a quarter miles the banks of +the Albert River; salt arm, from half to three-quarters of a mile broad. +Returned to Middleton and started back for the Leichhardt River on +bearing of 110 degrees to camp, as soon as we could get water and feed, +to endeavour to get the mare back to camp or part of the way. On bearing +of 110 degrees for about four miles, first part over salt swamps; passed +a long rocky lagoon full of water and half a mile long from north to +south, and several other smaller ones between that and the river; +mangrove banks in all the flat parts. Banks on this side treeless; +country much burnt up. Top tide at least five hours earlier than when we +camped last night; caught a few fish--in all about enough for one but had +to do for the three of us. Rise and fall of river somewhere about five +feet. + +Wednesday, May 14. + +Wind south; was very cloudy during the night and this morning; mosquitoes +very troublesome during the night. Bearing homewards 170 to 215 degrees +for the first eight or ten miles, leaving Poole and Middleton to get on +to our first camp till I bring on the party on the morrow. Got to camp +myself a little after sundown, and to my disgust found all the camels +astray and Bell and Davis in search of them. + +Thursday, May 15. + +Start Hodgkinson and Maitland on to Middleton and Poole's camp with four +horses, bedding, and provisions on such a course, 25 1/2 degrees west of +north, as will cut their camp. No tidings of the camels. I went out and +hunted about for them till noon, and just as I got to camp Bell and Davis +returned, having camped out all night after them, but saw nothing of +them--the ground is so hard they leave so little impression on the ground +that it is a difficult thing to trace them; however they have got bells +and hobbles on and will at once be again sent after, with, I hope, more +success. I am exceedingly annoyed at the detention here, more so as the +animals don't do so well here as they have done. Hunted still during the +afternoon for them, but without success. All spare hands will start out +in search in the morning; it will be the sound of the bells or the sight +of them only that will recover them, as track them we cannot in this dry +country. Promised the party a treat on arriving within the influence of +the sea on the north coast, so had baked some flour kept in reserve and +each had a liberal allowance served out to him--that with fresh and +excellent mutton and some salt I brought back from the flats gave all +quite a treat. Sent Poole and Middleton theirs on by Hodgkinson and +Maitland, which in their present half-starved condition would be a still +greater treat. We would all have been in better spirits had the camels +not been absent, but will hunt well for them tomorrow and trust we may +recover them. + +Friday, May 16. + +I with Bell and Davis started out first thing after the camels, leaving +Palmer, Wylde and Kirby in camp. Searched back towards the old camp again +although they had assured me they had thoroughly searched all the leading +creeks, but I had little faith in their search, which the result proved. +At about six miles south-south-west in one of the creeks that they +particularly assured me had been well-searched I, with Davis, found their +traces (Bell having been sent in another direction) and after losing +their track for about six or seven hours succeeded in finding them about +twelve or thirteen miles south and west of this, I fancy more by accident +than anything else, at about an hour and a half to sunset, and +immediately started to camp where they arrived all right and are now tied +up for the night ready for a morning start, and very glad am I that they +are found. + +Saturday, May 17. + +Camp 58. Sultry, wind east. All the animals ready for a start and happy +am I to turn my back on this camp which I call Rowdy Creek Falls Camp +after the poor little bullock we killed here, which gave us about 70 +pounds of such stuff as one could hardly imagine without seeing +it--nothing like a particle of fat visible anywhere and excessively +tasteless. It is fortunate our two remaining bullocks are in better +condition or we would not be in the most enviable plight on our arrival +at the settled districts, Queensland. Started on bearing of 335 1/2 +degrees over good open country. At two and three-quarter miles came to +and crossed a creek coming up from south-south-west; in that direction +there are falls and sheets of rock quite across it and forming above and +below them splendid reaches of deep water with numberless ducks, etc., +and black macaws and gillates in thousands. Plenty of water in our course +beyond the creek for half to three-quarters of a mile; then over plains +intersected with thin belts of small trees, the river not far off on our +right. At seven and a quarter miles changed course to 334 degrees, +keeping a little farther from the river. At fifteen and three-quarter +miles got to camp, found all right. Natives burning grass close upon our +right on the way here to windward at a furious rate. What their +particular object can be in burning so much of the country I cannot +understand. No natives as yet have voluntarily shown themselves. I met +the same lubra and child again near the same place that I before met her, +but she did not this time attempt to fire the grass round me. A short way +on further I met, or rather overtook, another lubra with two children; +she tried at first to conceal herself but when she saw that she was +observed she immediately set to work to burn the grass round us in all +directions. However I got off the horse and walked towards her, holding +out a fish-hook to her; she did not hesitate much but came forward and +took it and I went on my way. Saw no natives since but look where you +may, except north, and you will see fires raging. About two miles from +this and on our left as we came along is a fine lagoon in the midst of +timber. The tide it appears rises here now from six to ten feet. Not many +fish caught. + +Sunday, May 18. + +Camp 59. Wind easterly; heavy bank of dark clouds to the west and the sun +rose not so bright as usual. Over open plains, bad travelling; on bearing +of 340 degrees at four and a quarter miles struck an immense lagoon +(semicircular) and kept it on our right for nearly three-quarters of a +mile, then still bore 340 degrees for one-seventh of a mile further; then +changed course to 17 degrees; at half a mile struck and went through a +swampy lagoon going east; at three and a quarter miles river close by on +the right; at four and three-quarter miles came to large lagoons in our +course; went a little to the left and passed between two, appears to be a +very heavy one to the left close by. Still on bearing of 17 degrees; at +one and a quarter miles further large lagoon close on right; a couple of +hundred yards further on on the right is a fine creek with abundance of +water and game; at eight miles crossed it still on bearing of 17 degrees; +at two miles further on struck a fine large mangrove creek, a very pretty +spot like an orange grove. Bearing of 321 1/2 degrees for two miles; then +bearing of 35 degrees, crossed the sea running in through mangrove creeks +into the flats like a sluice, and camped at a lagoon and couple of fresh +water-holes close by the river at one mile. We are now perfectly +surrounded by salt water, the river on one side and the mangrove creeks +and salt flats on the other; I question much whether we shall be able to +get to the beach with the horses. Since noon the wind changed to +north-north-west; country very much burnt by the natives--it was dry +enough as it was without the additional use of fire. Lots of the +waterlily in bloom on all the deep waterholes and lagoons, and a very +handsome tree with dark green foliage and a beautiful yellow blossom, and +completely loaded with a round fruit of the size of a crab-apple, now +green, and containing a number of large-sized seeds, some of which have +been gathered, but I fancy they are too green to save the seed. + +Monday, May 19. + +Camp 60. In camp near the river where are caught occasionally by the +party a few fish, amongst others a young shark which however was not +eaten; started out this morning with the intention of going to the beach, +taking with me Middleton, Poole, Wylde and Kirby, but was quite +unsuccessful, being hindered by deep and broad mangrove creeks and boggy +flats over which our horses could not travel. I consider we are now about +four or five miles from the coast; there is a rise here in the river of +six and two-thirds feet today but yesterday it was a foot higher; killed +our three remaining sheep and will retrace our steps on 21st. + +Tuesday, May 20. + +Camp 60. Wind yesterday from north and north and east, at daylight this +morning from north, and during the day pretty nearly from all quarters; +afternoon kept more steady from east; sent Hodgkinson and Poole to the +salt flats to collect what will be sufficient for our homeward rambles, +or rather the Queensland settled districts, where we hope to arrive in +due time, the state of the clothing of the party and want of various +things--the principal thing, food, has prevented my directing the steps +of the party to the settled districts of South Australia. A few natives +came to the opposite side of the river this morning during flood-tide and +got up in the trees, and I was a long time in getting any of them +persuaded to cross; at length two of them and then another middle-aged +man ventured on my displaying a tomahawk to them; they were of the +ordinary stamp, and strange to say were neither circumcised nor had they +any of their front teeth out, but were marked down the upper part of the +arm and on the breast and back; after making them a few presents they +recrossed; no information from them, but perhaps we may see something +more of them on a future day. Hodgkinson and Poole returned with from +forty to fifty pounds of good salt, sufficient for our purpose, and we +start in the morning to proceed as far as the Falls, and cross the river +there in the event of not finding a crossing earlier, which I don't +expect. The camels I am sorry to say are getting lame by the burnt stumps +of reeds and strong coarse grass entering the soles of their feet, I hope +they will soon recover. If the bar at the mouth of the river will admit +vessels to enter there is a sufficiency of water at all tides to ship +horses or stock from alongside the banks without any wharf or anything +else, and good country to depasture upon, but the grasses too strong +generally for sheep. + +Wednesday, May 21. + +Camp 60. Commenced our journey for Port Denison, wind east-south-east. I +forgot to mention before that, running parallel with the river between +this camp and our last, are small ironstone and conglomerate ridges, with +abundance of feed and good sound ground wooded with the silver leaf, +dwarf gum-looking tree, and various others of no great growth but +sightly, and in the ridges, which are of no height to speak of, there are +splendid freshwater lagoons and creeks; came to a lagoon about two and a +half miles south-south-west of our 59 camp on nearly our old tracks; +splendid feed and water. Just as we had started in the morning the +natives made their appearance on the trees on the opposite side of the +river but did not attempt to cross. I suppose we will see enough of them +on our eastern route; this part of the country is well watered and no end +of feed; plenty of it higher than I am, and a considerable variety; the +remainder of our sheep, even with their long journey, fell off but +little. + +Thursday, May 22. + +Return Camp 1. Beautiful morning; this lagoon is about twelve feet deep, +surrounded by a marsh with abundance of green feed. Not a breath of wind +at sunrise. West of this camp about two and a half miles off is a +considerable-sized creek, by the overflow of which this lagoon is formed +and fed; plenty of water in the creek and in side creeks from it, and +most excellent timber on its banks and flats for building purposes; it +comes up from south-west and after passing this bears off considerably to +west of north. I have called it the Fisher after C.B. Fisher, Esquire, of +Adelaide. Returned today by my north-going track, the approaches to the +river were so abrupt that I could not get a crossing-place; some of the +banks nearly precipitous and from one hundred to one hundred and fifty +feet high, although I saw rocks right across the river and could have +gone over, but could not ascend the banks so came to camp at a lagoon +close to the creek, three and a half miles north 25 1/2 degrees west of +Falls camp. This creek, which comes up from the south-west and flows past +this for some miles yet before it joins the river about north-north-east +of this, I have called Boord's Creek after Samuel Boord, Esquire, of +Adelaide. + +Friday, May 23. + +Camp 2. Started on bearing of 135 degrees; at starting crossed the creek, +and at three and a half miles made the river where it is joined by +another of quite equal size apparently but no crossing-place; so had to +go about one mile south-south-west to the Falls and crossed there with +some difficulty, getting one of the camels and several of the horses down +on the clefts of the rocks and barking their knees a little: just after +crossing and proceeding on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees a marked tree was +observed, the first we had seen, and then close by two others, evidently +by Mr. Landsborough. They were respectively marked on the large tree next +the Falls, a large broad-leafed tree, arrow at 1 o'clock LFE. 15, 1862. +C.5. On the northernmost of the other two trees, about twenty paces to +eastward of the large tree, are a large arrow at 1 o'clock and L facing +the west, and on the other gumtree, a few feet north-east, is the letter +E of large dimensions; facing the opposite way or east we dug round the +tree but could find nothing deposited; saw the remains of broken bottles +and fancied from the broad arrow being pointed upwards that a document in +a small bottle might have been suspended high up in the tree and got at +by the natives, but on after consideration I took the meaning of the +arrow being up that up the river was his course; we saw the traces of his +horses at the marked trees, but the tracks must be quite obliterated up +the river or we must have seen something of them; indeed the heavy rain +that inundated the whole country south commenced where we were on the +27th February, and perhaps he had it a little earlier, which may account +for our not seeing any traces of him ere this. Which way he may have gone +under the circumstances is hard to say, as no doubt he experienced very +rough wet weather indeed, and probably was put to many shifts in +consequence of the heavy overflow of the immense creeks. At scarcely one +mile on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees we came to the falls of the other +branch of the river, and crossed it much more easily than the other; it +is about 400 to 500 yards broad and all conglomerate stone, and quite +treeless or nearly so on its banks as far as the stones went, it then +bore off to the south-east or perhaps east of that; at three miles +further, seeing ridges ahead on our course, we camped at a swamp; lots of +geese and ibis. Marked a small tree near Landsborough's with MK +(conjoined), May 22, 1862, with a knife, as we had no chisel or gouge, +they being lost. + +Saturday, May 24. + +Camp 3. Heavy dew of late; last afternoon wind fresh from +west-south-west; same this morning but light; geese and all game very +difficult to be got at in this part of the country. Natives burning in +all directions but do not approach us; I almost fancy they have been +reproved for some of their misdeeds to some one or other of the parties +here lately, from their shyness. Bearing of 95 1/2 degrees, half a mile +stony flat; one mile, stony ridge and ironstone flat; two and +three-quarter miles small creek; lagoon with plenty of water. +North-north-east open undulations rather swampy; at three and +three-quarter miles struck and crossed a small creek with a little water, +stony ridges (ironstone) rusty gum, spinifex, etc.; at eleven and +three-quarter miles crossed creek with water from north-east. Left creek +at 11.45; stony ridges, ironstone and slate, with a little spinifex; +rather thickly wooded with rusty gum, silver-leafed gum, etc.; anthills, +turreted shapes. At twenty-one and three-quarter miles came to and +crossed a creek on a plain between ranges; it flows north and east and +takes its rise in the ranges close by to the south-west; plenty of water +and feed. Camped at 3.30 p.m.; take three and a quarter miles off journey += eighteen and a half. + +Sunday, May 25. + +Camp 4. No dew; started at 8.35 a.m.; wind south a.m.; afternoon +south-east. Over half a mile open plain; then ridges, and on top of first +range at 9.53; very rocky; spinifex, rusty gum, etc. At twenty minutes +past ten stony flat; at twenty-five minutes past ten crossed creek; at 12 +o'clock along creek on the left; at 12.15 rocky hill on right and lagoon +with water close under; top of next hill at 12.50; at 1.5 on the open +plains and undulations and pretty well clear of the stones. Tier of +ranges immediately on the left for a mile or so; at 2.18 crossed dry +creek from west-south-west; at 2.28 came to another creek from the +south-west. They are both dry where struck; followed the last one down, +bearing of 60 degrees for one-third of a mile; water in creek and in a +lagoon on the east side; travelling about six hours besides the one-third +of a mile. Creek flows to north-east; distance about eighteen miles. + +Monday, May 26. + +Camp 5. I find that my watch, the only one in going order or rather +disorder, gains eleven minutes in the hour with the regulator hard back +to slow--now and then, without any apparent cause, stops; until by sundry +shakings and bumps it is prevailed upon to go again--which is most +unsatisfactory, situated as I am here, in calculating distances. Wind all +night strong from south-east to south-south-east and very cold; no dew. +The waters are drying up very fast; during the afternoon of yesterday the +country looked well; nice open ranges on all sides with a large space of +open country, well grassed in the centre. Started at 8.15 a.m. on bearing +of 95 1/2 degrees; at 9.17 passed till this time rather thickly wooded +(low) small ironstone, pebbly country, well grassed--ridgy on both sides; +at 9.17 entered open plains; large creek ahead; first part of plain much +subject to inundation; at 11.24 lagoon apparently about one mile south. +Hills cease south about four miles; passed a couple of belts of timber, +mistaken in the distance for large creek. At 1 p.m. swampy (dry); at 1.15 +small creek with plenty of water and feed, from west-south-west to +north-east or east-north-east; at 1.30 made a swamp with good feed and +water. Camped; distance about seventeen miles. The horizon appears to be +one dense cloud of fire and smoke on our way and on all sides of us; saw +no natives. + +Tuesday, May 27. + +Camp 6. Cold keen wind from south-south-east. The camels I am sorry to +say are very lame, caused by the burnt reeds running through the soles of +their feet whilst near the coast; boots of leather have been made for the +worst of them but they seem to suffer much, and it pulls the flesh off +them more than their work. Started at 8.40 a.m. on bearing of 95 1/2 +degrees; at 9.15 lagoon close by on the left; country all burnt. At 9.45 +struck large creek with abundance of water, boggy where struck; spelled, +looking for a crossing till 10.5. Went down the creek north-east or +east-north-east till 10.16; then on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees, till at +10.23 struck what I take to be Morning Inlet, about 150 yards broad with +reeds and grass, no water at crossing; 10.42 left Morning Inlet where we +watered horses. At 2.53 p.m. changed course to 32 1/2 degrees for a belt +of timber, thinking to camp; no water. At 3.12 p.m. changed course to 95 +1/2 degrees till three minutes to five, when changed course to 135 +degrees until 5.39, then on bearing of 75 degrees till 6.21; no water, +but a very little drop about half a mile back, to which place I returned +and found there was even less than I expected. This is a most deceitful +part of the country; every five minutes you are in expectation of coming +to water but it was our fate to meet none but this muddy little drop, +barely sufficient for our own use, and none for the animals. From about 3 +p.m. till we camped heavy belts of swampy box and large gums; many +patches of reeds and coarse grass; water recently dried up; and belts of +plain. Numerous birds seen--cockatoos, hawks, crows, galahs, etc. etc. +etc. + +Wednesday, May 28. + +Camp 7. The bullocks (two) with Palmer and Kirby on horseback and +Maitland on foot did not come up to camp last night, but immediately +after sunrise the two horsemen and bullocks arrived, but not Maitland, he +being on foot from having injured his horse so much as to render him +unfit to ride, as is his usual way with every horse he gets, taking no +care of him whatever. I told him when he injured the last that if he did +the same to this one he should walk; and good to my word I made him walk +yesterday. Rode a short distance at sunrise, having heard some native +companions calling out after daylight, and found within a quarter of a +mile of us, almost within view, two splendid lagoons. Immediately +returned to camp and moved it at once to the nearest one; it bears from +last night's camp nearly due south, a quarter of a mile or little over; +the other lagoon is distant about 300 yards south-east of this. Great +abundance of feed. As the camels are lame and in need of a spell and we +want to kill a bullock and Maitland not come up yet I have made up my +mind to stop here till all are put in travelling order. In the morning +the wind bitterly cold from south-east to south-south-east. Middleton has +been laid up for the last three days and lost the use of his legs +yesterday afternoon but hope he will soon be all right again. He is much +better today; I should get on indifferently without him. Although we met +with no water coming along last afternoon I have no doubt but that there +was plenty of it, as the natives were burning everywhere as we came +along, particularly close on our right. It is still a splendid country +for grass and timber. As soon as we moved to camp we had one of the +bullocks (Boxer) up and killed; he is very fair beef. The other is not so +good, but stands being kept in hobbles; whereas this one would not or he +would have been kept till last on account of his better condition. +Providentially Maitland made his way to camp late this afternoon. Had we +been obliged to go on again a stage without luckily hitting upon this +place I think he would have gone frantic as he appeared in a sad state of +mind on his arrival; I hope it will be a caution to him in future to see +to his horse better. + +Thursday, May 29. + +Camp 8. Wind as yesterday and cool. I am sorry to say I have three of the +party on the sicklist--all seized first with cold shivering then +excessive heat, ultimately a numbness and want of proper use of their +limbs, sickness, and want of appetite and headache. They are Middleton, +Hodgkinson, and Kirby. They are confined to bed; but I hope with a little +care will soon recover, as it is an awkward part of the world to be taken +ill in. Getting the meat jerked and putting the pack-bags, etc., to +rights. The other bullock as yet appears to stay contented; he came up +during the night and took a survey of his dead companion and quietly +returned to his feed. + +Friday, May 30. + +Camp 8. Wind as usual, south-east to south-south-east; keen and cold, the +day pretty warm. The invalids I think a little better, but far from well. +The sore-footed camels improve; but my impression is that their feet will +not thoroughly get well till they arrive in the settled districts where +they can have a spell for some time. Meat-drying, bag-mending, +horse-shoeing, with other little matters. If these lagoons are permanent +(and no doubt there are many more) this is a splendid pastoral country, +feed good enough for any stock and timber to suit almost any purpose. +There are here several fruit-bearing trees but unfortunately the stone +happens to be the largest portion of the fruit and at present none of +them are ripe. A vast quantity of large beans are here on a runner, the +same that Dr. Leichhardt used, when burnt, for coffee and rather seemed +to like. None of our party seem to care trying it, although we have now +nothing but meat and salt and from four to five pounds of flour to make +gruel in case of sickness. All have been till within the last few days in +excellent health and nowise short of appetite. From the time we are out +beyond what was anticipated I suppose the people of Adelaide have given +us up as lost. I hope however they will not think it necessary to send a +search party out after us. + +Saturday, May 31. + +Patients about the same. Middleton rather worse. Wind in the morning from +south-east and south-south-east, at midday changed to east, then north +and afterwards to north-north-west. Meat nearly dry. + +Sunday, June 1. + +Still in Camp 8. Patients about the same, very weak and feverish, but +must endeavour to make a move tomorrow. Wind from north, north-west to +west, and rather warm. Had a visit from a number of natives, they do not +appear so shy as usual; they do not circumcise but have one or two teeth +out in front of upper jaw. From what I could see the young men are not +allowed to talk, but merely making a hissing and twittering noise to make +themselves understood, and pointing and motioning with the hand whilst +the old men do the talking business. I could make but little out of them. +I made them a few presents with which they seemed much pleased; got a few +words of their language and with a promise to return tomorrow they took +their leave. They are not at all such a good sample as are at the lakes +north and east of Lake Hope. They say there is plenty of water ahead on +the course I intend to take, but from want of knowledge of their language +could glean nothing of the parties that came in search to the north +coast; but that they have seen whites was quite evident from their +knowledge of the use of the axe. They seemed much in dread of the camels, +the only animals that were near the camp at the time, and expressed by +motions a desire that they should be driven away. + +Monday, June 2. + +Camp 8. The heaviest dew last night I have experienced for many years, +accompanied by a dense fog till between 8 and 9 a.m. Wind from +west-north-west. Palmer attacked with same fever that the rest have. The +others very weak but I think a little better. Made a start this morning +at 9.20 a.m. on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees; at 10.14 lagoon on right; at +10.27 crossed creek with plenty of water from south-south-west; at 11.50 +lagoon on right--all forest land with a greater number of the paper-bark +tree than any other; at 11.15 much spinifex; at 11.20 creek close on left +with plenty of water; at 11.35 crossed creek, it goes off into many +lagoons southwards and eastwards; good grass and plenty of water, not +much spinifex, the country rather too thickly wooded to be open forest. +Halted at lagoons on the left at 1.20 coming from south of east and +flowing to north of west. Although this country is rather too thickly +wooded to be called open forest it is still an excellent pastoral +country, the grasses sweet and plenty of water, the lagoons being covered +with nymphans or waterlily, and the soil sandy. We passed many patches of +burnt ground, some burnt earlier than the rest, having green grass nine +to twelve inches high. Stopped short today on account of the patients who +are very weak, Kirby in particular; distance travelled twelve and a half +miles. In the afternoon wind from west-north-west. Saw nothing of the +natives this morning before starting. Several palms seen through the +forest, a few close by this camp of no great height; the feed in general +is very dry except in the neighbourhood of the creeks or lagoons. + +Tuesday, June 3. + +Camp 9. Wind south; considerable dew but nothing to the night before. +There is a good deal of spinifex here and the timber is nothing like so +strong or good as around yesterday's camp and for miles on all sides of +it. Three creeks appear to rise here and join and become one, all from +the southward of east to north of west. Started at 9.8 a.m., the horses +having strayed some distance back to the burnt feed. Bearing 95 1/2 +degrees, open forest with spinifex; at 10.30 crossed small creek (dry); +at 10.45 crossed small sandy creek (dry) water on the right; at 11.30 +watered horses and then crossed creek from west-south-west to +east-north-east, small creek from south joins close by; at 1.25 crossed +creek with water; at 2.12 crossed sandy creek from north-east to south +and another close by, then scrub and rather thick forest till 5.50, then +camped no water; distance about twenty-six and a half to twenty-seven +miles. One of the horses (Harry) after being ridden into camp appeared to +blow a good deal and from little to more till at last he got seriously +ill and died at 9 p.m. He must have been poisoned or bitten by a snake. + +Wednesday, June 4. + +Camp 10, or Harry's Camp, after our dead horse. Wind southerly. Started +at 7.18 a.m., still on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees; crossed sandy creek +(dry) from north-east to east-south-east; at 9.52 crossed same creek +still dry running to north of east; at 9.15 recrossed same; at 9.20 +recrossed; at 9.25 recrossed the creek not far off on the right; country +rather scrubby. Sent Hodgkinson to follow the creek round to ascertain if +water existed in it and if so to stop or overtake us. Went on till about +10.30 when Hodgkinson overtook us having found sufficient water for our +use. Returned at once to it about a mile back and camped. The old female +camel done up; will leave her saddle as it is much knocked about and +divide her load between the others and the horses; she may follow which I +think she will; distance on course to camp about eight and a half miles. +The patients improving, Kirby remains very weak and spiritless. This +morning wind cool from southward; during the day changed round to +east-south-east and in the evening to west-south-west and rather cloudy. +This is a wretched little creek, for some miles sandy, now in its bed are +layers of stone and clay; it frequently loses itself on the flat land. +The timber in the forest consists of two kinds of papery-leafed bark +trees, box, gum, and a very handsome tree, leafless but bears a flower, +besides various shrubs, etc., and spinifex. + +Thursday, June 5. + +Camp 11. Mild morning, wind from southward and cool, no dew. Started at +9.4 on bearing of 95 1/2 degrees. Creek close on right. At 9.37 crossed +creek. At 9.48 receives a tributary from east-south-east (no water). Very +scrubby for a few miles and then more open forest. At 12.38 came to a +large and broad creek or mass of creeks or river. Water not abundant on +account of its being sandy in its bed. As the camels have had to be tied +up for the last two nights, the country being so densely timbered, I stay +here and camp. Followed the river down about three-quarters of a mile +west-north-west, which appears to be its course. Here it is upwards of +300 yards broad, banks no great height. Distance on course ten and +three-quarter miles. Wind about 11 a.m. changed round to east and north +of east and warm; as we got to camp it blew gently from west-north-west. +Patients except Kirby mending gradually. I should imagine the river to be +the Flinders but if so it must turn after it passes this very much to the +west to enter the sea near where it is laid down on the charts. Its bed +pretty well the whole way across is wooded with the paper-like barked, +narrow-leafed tree, and a few other shrubs. It appears as if there was +not at all a heavy flood down it this season as few or none of the trees +are washed down. + +Friday, June 6. + +Camp 12. Dull morning, rather cloudy. Patients much improved. The female +camel left behind yesterday has not made her appearance yet, still I have +little doubt but that she will follow. Not a breath of wind at sunrise. +Started at 8.17 a.m. Still on general course bearing of 95 1/2 degrees +over open-timbered, well-grassed land. Afterwards at 10.11 came to and +crossed same river from north-north-east to south-south-west. It was not +far off all the morning to the right. Spelled seven minutes till 10.18. +At 10.36 recrossed river where it is stony and rocky with sand in its +bed, coming from south. At 11.3 struck river on right but did not cross. +Followed along its north-east bank till 11.15. Still close by at 11.27. +At 12.50 crossed small sandy creek from south. Spelled for six minutes +till 12.56. Then bearing along the creek till 1.11 p.m. on bearing of 325 +degrees three-quarters of a mile; distance on proper course 95 1/2 +degrees thirteen and a quarter miles. Just after camping I found that +what I take to be the River Binoe is about 120 yards east of us, flowing +about 322 degrees, with a lagoon on east bank, with yellow lilies. The +small creek we are camped on has plenty of water. The Binoe River has +none just here. All the creeks and the river have lots of cork-screw +palms in and near them. Good forest all day and abundance of grass. + +Saturday, June 7. + +Camp 13. But little dew last night. The old camel has not come on; +perhaps she will remain until she freshens up a little and then shape her +way south or east. No wind, beautiful morning. Hodgkinson shot a native +companion; have seen no game for some days. Started at 8.40 on bearing of +110 degrees. In four minutes crossed the Binoe. At 9.8 came to and +recrossed river or creek Binoe. At 9.45 crossed creek with rocky bed and +with water from east by south. Spelled five minutes till 9.50. Quartz +ridges. At twelve o'clock spurs running to south and west. At 1.40 from +top of hill dismal view seen ahead; nothing but bare burnt up ranges. +Struck the River Flinders or one of its largest branches at 2.18 p.m. +Crossed over and camped at a long sheet of water in its bed on +south-eastern side. Distance on course sixteen and three-quarter miles. +The journey today has been over thick scrubby forest which tore our +pack-bags a good deal. From 9 a.m. the ground was a good deal strewed +over with small ironstone pebbles, not bronzed as they usually are, till +9.45 then ridges and ranges of quartz and sandstone. Drainage south and +west. A high range on the left, some 6 to eight miles off, wooded to its +top. Immediately below it runs the Binoe I think. Course of the range is +about 100 degrees. This watercourse comes here from the north-north-east +or even north of that, and bears away to the south-south-west as far as +discernible. Wind during the day from east to south-east. As this is a +good place for killing I will kill our last bullock as he has become a +nuisance in driving the horses by rushing among them on the march and out +through them in front and on all sides, causing them to travel in an +unsteady manner and assisting to further tear the bags. All the patients +getting on well. Natives burning down this creek or river some little +distance and ahead and a little to the left of our course today, the +first we have seen for a few days. I omitted to mention a couple of days +ago falling in with a number of frameworks about six feet long by four +wide and three high, risen by four forks placed on the ground, then side +pieces, and the top covered with similar pieces closely all over +lengthways, and on top of that grass; then fires at head, feet and both +sides. I should say to sleep on during wet weather. Killed our bullock +but little fat on him, but he is not of a fat kind. + +Sunday, June 8. + +Camp 14. Wind from east and north of east in the morning. Cutting up and +drying the beef; the fat drying won't detain us. A great abundance of the +River McKenzie bean here on the sandy parts of the watercourse. Here the +watercourse is about 100 yards broad, in many places bergues of sand +separating it into different channels. Wild dogs abundant. Saw traces of +kangaroo, emu, and wallaby on our way here yesterday. Wind changed during +the afternoon to south-east and south-south-east. This sheet of water is +from 250 to 300 yards long and twenty yards broad. Kirby much better and +the others getting quite convalescent. + +Monday, June 9. + +In Camp 14. Drying the beef, shoeing, mending pack-bags, and various +other little things etc. No dew last night. Still morning. Most beautiful +weather. What little wind there is is from south by west but hardly +perceptible. I took Middleton with me to go out to reconnoitre and feel +our way for next stage through the hills ahead. Found that the +watercourse comes from north or a little west of north from between the +heavy-timbered ranges to north and west, and bald hills, or nearly so, to +north and east, and probably winds round nearer its source more to the +east. A number of thinly-wooded hills with small creeks running from them +to west and south appear to run round south for some distance, perhaps +ten to fifteen miles or more. Beyond the highest in the distance the +natives are busy burning, and this leads me to suppose they are on the +other or principal branch of the Flinders River; but I shall know more +about it in a few days. Abundance of water in the small creeks as far +east and south as I went today and some lagoons in the flats. The natives +commence their range of fires from 20 degrees west of south to 30 degrees +east of south, and I think I shall find that it will meet me on my +course. Wind in the afternoon from south by east, strong occasionally, +towards evening it died away. Beef now dry. We start from here tomorrow +if all is right and we have nothing more to detain us. The horses are +shod except one and that one, one of the best, no shoes being large +enough. I hope he will be able to get along. Our food now consists of +about 230 pounds of dry and salt beef, everything else in the shape of +food gone but I think we will have sufficient to carry us into the +settled districts of Queensland on the Burdekin River where we will be +able to get a fresh supply. We have a little salt and amongst the lot +about half a pound of soap. + +Wednesday, June 11. + +Camp 14. The bed of this branch here is one mass of concrete and +conglomerate, with small and large masses of ironstone, just as if it had +lately escaped from a furnace, with pebbles and pieces of quartz, some +sandstone, and sandstone in which is a mass of quartz. In many other +places it is quite a bed of sand its full width, and in other places +separated into different branches by bergues of alluvial deposit and +sand, with trees of different kinds and shrubs and reeds upon them. There +is a table-topped hill down on or near the north-west bank a few miles, +lightly wooded from north-north-east to south-west and apparently stony. +Not a breath of wind at daylight; afterwards in forenoon from +east-south-east. Started at 8.30 a.m. on bearing of 110 degrees, for +first few miles through open forest intersected with small creeks flowing +to west and south, some containing water with lagoons on the flat +occasionally, the drainage of the ranges to the eastward and north of our +course. The spurs coming down close on our left stony but well-grassed +and very lightly timbered, in fact nearly bald ridges. Over first stony +ridge at 10.10 and considerable-sized double creek at 10.17, dry at +crossing. Top of next high range at 11.15; five and a quarter miles. Very +extensive view. Spelled on top of hill waiting for the camels for +forty-five minutes till noon. Then started on bearing of 127 1/2 degrees +for south-west end of large range in the distance that would otherwise +come right across my original course. There is an immense large black +circular range from 127 1/2 degrees round by east to west-north-west, +with reaphooky faces and scrubby tops, and a number of detached conical +and coronet-topped hills. At 1 p.m. water in a rocky creek close to the +right. Watered the horses. Spelled ten minutes till 1.10. Crossed creek +at 1.15. Sandy, scrubby forest. Crossed another sandy creek at 1.57. +Crossed another sandy creek at 2.3. At 3.15 on top of rocky mulga hill +with granite and mass of quartz pebbles. Some difficulty in getting over +and down a rocky range (granite principally). Struck a small creek with +sufficient water for our use and good feed, and camped at 3.50 at +distance of ten and three-quarters to eleven miles on last bearing. +Distance travelled about sixteen miles. Course of the ranges close by, +the one that we last crossed and the one just close by before us, 40 +degrees west of south with the drainage in same direction. + +Thursday, June 12. + +Camp 15. Dewless night, wind at daylight east-north-east. Started at 8.6 +a.m. on bearing of 127 1/2 degrees, top of first mulga range after +passing over very rough ranges; at 9.20 struck creek north-east of the +large range I am making for, watered horses, etc. After scrambling and +creeping over rocks and precipices arrived at south-west end of large +hill; at 10.15 at about three miles spelled for thirty-four minutes till +10.39. From top of hill on which there is a little spinifex you command +an extensive view; the whole country is black and dismal in appearance in +every direction; a fine large range appears in the distance from 100 to +150 degrees, with well-defined gaps, etc., drainage all to the southward +and westward. Now rounded this hill and went on a bearing of 100 degrees; +just after beginning to descend traced a party of horses going northward +under eastern side of large range, apparently when the ground was wet. +Descended much more easily than we ascended; we got into a fine valley +with good timber and plenty of grass, and at 11.50 about three miles came +to a running creek from northward. Traces of a hurricane along the creek, +tops of all the trees on the ground or suspended in the air by bits of +bark; the timber on each bank does not appear here at least to have been +touched. Obliged to stop here as Maitland has not overtaken us; he stayed +behind at the camp for some purpose or other and did not afterwards come +up; I am afraid he has missed the tracks as it is stony and rocky. This +large hill is composed of sandstone of various degrees of fineness, +quartz, pebbles, etc., principally; distance travelled six miles direct. +Here the creek or river is timbered across with the narrow-leafed +papery-barked tree; some short distance up the stream from here this +description of timber nearly gives place to gums. I have no doubt but +that some day or other this place will be taken up as a station. Fish are +in the deep holes, some that I saw about a couple of pounds weight. I +also saw some young guardfish from nine to twelve inches long and many +smaller. Lots of euro and kangaroo but very shy. Maitland made his +appearance shortly after camping. + +Friday, June 13. + +Camp 16. Dewless night, wind from east by north. I take this to be the +main branch of the Flinders; the hills on its right proper banks are very +bold and must be over 3000 feet high. If they are not before named I have +called them Gregory's Ranges after Augustus Gregory, Esquire, now +Surveyor-General of Queensland. The point I changed my course at +yesterday I have called Mount Wildash after F. Wildash, Esquire, of +Queensland. Immediately east of Mount Wildash close by is another bluff +equally high which I have called Hawker's Bluff after the Honourable G.C. +Hawker. Started at 7.58 a.m. on bearing of 100 degrees for the southern +end of dark range in the distance; at 8.30 south of conspicuous sandstone +rocky peak which I have called Morphett's Peak after John Morphett, +Esquire, of Adelaide; dip of about 35 degrees in the sandstone to about +north-east or a little more east. Kept the above course three miles over +good travelling country; spelled a few minutes then up and down and over +very rocky ranges, in many places precipitous and most intricate +travelling from 9 a.m. till 11.30; three and a half miles farther, then +table-land till 1.50, the drainage is to the east, no doubt to go south +after it has cleared the rocky ranges; spelled, watering the camels from +2.25 to 2.45 p.m., up to this eight and three-quarter miles further. +Commenced ascending another mass of similar rocky ranges; stopped at 3.40 +two and a quarter miles further to look out a track to endeavour to get +out of this awful place. Started again at 4.55 p.m. after spelling one +and a quarter hours, could not get the animals over. Went back till 5.22 +one mile on our track, or to sixteen and a half miles on bearing 100 +degrees, to try another place, southerly and westerly along and over very +rocky ranges till 6.15, about two miles on average bearing of 215 to 220 +degrees. Came to a small sandy creek, then another, where by digging we +will be able to give the animals some water, there is plenty of feed; it +has been a very distressing day for the poor brutes; distance sixteen and +a half miles on course of 100 degrees, and two miles on 220 degrees; gave +each of the animals from two to five buckets. Although when first seen +the little water that was visible did not exceed a quart with a few small +dead fish about 1 1/2 inches long, but after digging and clearing away +the sand we got sufficient for tonight and tomorrow morning. It has been +close and oppressive which has added to the distress of the horses and +camels. One of the latter, an old Indian, could hardly be persuaded to +come along. Very light rain commenced about dark or a little after, but I +doubt whether it will come to anything; however it will damp the grass +for the poor animals and make it more palatable. + +Saturday, June 14. + +Camp 17. Only rained sufficient to damp the grass. Still cloudy; not a +breath of wind at daylight. Craggy hills to commence the journey with +this morning. This sandy watercourse flows to west and south, a mere +narrow channel, but it was of much service to us; we would have fared +badly for the poor animals had we not fallen in with it, insignificant as +it appears. Our pack-bags got sadly torn yesterday with broken timber and +rocks, all of which latter is sandstone. We passed much splendid +splitting timber on our way yesterday, stringy-bark and other trees I +don't know the names of, but useful timber. Crossed the creek at 8.38 +a.m. on bearing of south by east till 8.55 three-quarters mile; spelled +looking out on top of hill sixteen minutes, then on east course chiefly; +at 11.30 six miles south one mile from the hill I was making for +yesterday. Still on easterly course up and over a rugged and scrubby +range till 2 p.m. about three and three-quarter miles. Lost an hour in +searching for one of the horses that bolted and kicked off all his load +prior to this. Boco (horse) obliged to be left behind. Then about +north-north-east descended a range very steep and rough, then spinifex +precipices, sharp ledges of rocks and every roughness one could imagine +for about two miles or thereabouts, chiefly in the creek, then creek bore +about east by north to east-north-east which I followed till after dark +about six and a half miles, altogether about nineteen miles. Obliged to +leave another horse (Governor) in the creek, fairly knocked up. He has +been very soft although the highest priced horse of the lot, one bought +of Mr. Boord for 50 pounds. There is another will have to be left if the +country does not immediately change for the better; fortunately we found +water in several places in the bed of the creek or the horses would have +fared badly--a little grass of a very coarse nature just in the sides of +the creek, the rest all spinifex and scrub, the latter the camels +greedily devour; the rough country has told much on the feet of the +latter, another of which, the old Indian, I am afraid will have to be +left behind. First pines seen today since crossing Lake Torrens. + +Sunday, June 15. + +Camp 18. Very cloudy, every appearance of rain. Started at 9.10 along the +bed of the creek still about east by north; at 10.35 three miles the +creek receives a considerable tributary from the south-east, in fact it +is the main channel and the one we are in the tributary, then it flowed +north 15 degrees west to north or nearly so till 11.45 when the horses +knocked up, must camp and give them the rest of the day and probably +tomorrow; on this latter course about two miles; distance travelled +between five and six miles. After getting to camp ascended the hills on +the right or eastern side of the river and never beheld such a fearfully +grand country in my life, nothing but towers and pinnacles of sandstone +conglomerate, fit for nothing but wallaby and euro; and if it is for a +thousand years from this time it can be used by no other animals but them +and the natives as it is at present. The apparent course of this river +from the greatest height I could get to is about 305 degrees, going in +the first place after passing the camp a little more north for three or +four miles--it is a terrible country. Should the river, on a closer +examination tomorrow, prove to go as I imagine it does, I have nothing +for it but to retrace my steps and go up the main branch and try and +cross the range at top. Still very cloudy and looks as if it would rain +every minute. I wish I had a little more food, if I had I would give the +animals a week here but I have barely sufficient for six days. Oaks have +been seen today in the bed of the river since the junction of the two +channels. The river runs below the junction of the two branches for some +distance, but here it is dry its full width which is about 150 to 200 +yards and is very picturesque, with beautiful drooping gums, papery-bark +trees, and various others, and the bold cliffs towering one above the +other with awful grandeur. No one can conceive how much effect the travel +of the last few days and the shortness of nourishing food has had upon +our animals which ten days ago were fit for anything--always excepting +this description of awful country. Wind from all points of the compass. + +Monday, June 16. + +Camp 19. In the bed of the River Gilbert (I take it to be) no room for +camp anywhere else. The country is literally teeming with euro and +wallaby, but as the natives are about in the rocks and precipices hunting +we have no chance of shooting any. Very cloudy yet; rained a little +during the night but nothing of any consequence; we cannot now be more +than from sixty to seventy miles from the River Burdekin but from this +spot utterly impracticable. Had to come down this length for anything +like feed; traces of numbers of natives and their fires still burning. +Went up the rocks and precipices on the eastern side of the river, and +found that a high range extends eastwards, running north-west and +south-east, completely blocking us in from here. Rode down the river to +see if there is any likelihood of our getting out east by a tributary +that it receives about one and a half miles down but found not. Rained a +little in the forenoon and slight showers during the afternoon. Found +that the old Indian camel (Narro) was unable to get up and go about to +feed so, considering that the horses and the two remaining camels (Arabs) +wanted a spell for a few days, I resolved upon killing the old camel and +using him whilst here to save our dried beef, reluctantly as he is +everything but a favourite morsel, but when we are compelled it is no use +hesitating so had him shot; and firstly had his liver stewed or steamed, +which I must say was the most extraordinary morsel I ever attempted to +eat; it was as dry and juiceless and of as little flavour as if it had +never formed a component part of any living animal; scarcely any of the +party could touch it. + +Tuesday, June 17. + +In Camp 19, sandy bed of river. Rained pretty heavily during the night in +showers. Cut up the meat of the camel to dry but the weather is very +unfavourable; the rest of him eats much better than the liver; the heart +is quite as good as a bullock's and the meat, considering the condition +of the animal, not at all as tough as one would expect; the party after +starving for two or three meals have quietly taken to him now and rather +like the meat. + +Wednesday, June 18. + +Still in Camp 19--not the most enviable place in the world. Heavy dew +last night. I am afraid the meat we are attempting to dry will be a +failure on account of the moist state of the weather. I was sadly grieved +on return of the party that went to see after the horses to learn that +one of our very best horses (Rowdy) was lying dead a short distance down +the river, still warm; he must have been poisoned or bitten by a snake; +at present we will feel his loss much as he was so strong and always kept +fat. Although the meat will not be quite dry I will see and make a start +out of this in the morning in case it may be some poisonous herb that may +happen to be in the bed of the river. I will return up the river to where +the main branch joined the tributary we came down, and try by following +it for some distance to get some place where I can ascend the ranges to +the east, but I expect it to be a work of great difficulty; however that +I will think nothing of if I only succeed and get the animals all over +safe. The weather seems taking up now. + +Thursday, June 19. + +Camp 19. Beautiful morning, not a breath of wind. Try what success we +will have up the main branch of this river in finding a passage over the +range to eastward. Have got rid of everything we can possibly spare and +that will now be of little use to us and had them buried on the +south-west side of creek, under the creek side of large broken-off +standing dead tree, and up the bank about forty yards from a large +gumtree, with a large square patch of bark taken off and small arrow at 4 +o'clock in the direction should they be sought for, which I much doubt. +The horses don't look at all the thing I am sorry to see, knowing that +they have some heavy work immediately before them; even before attempting +to ascend the ranges we have to travel in the bed of the river where the +sand is excessively heavy and trying on the poor animals in their present +leg-weary state and want of condition. I never saw animals fall off so +suddenly in my life. Followed our tracks back to the junction of the two +branches about two and a half miles, then took the left-hand or +south-east branch, found it improve much more than I had anticipated; the +rocky hills recede occasionally and leave a nice bank of grass, but most +of it recently burnt by the natives; on our left the rock appeared now to +be chiefly slate, while on the right it still remained sandstone and +quartz; the bed is broad and generally very open and sandy, upon which we +have principally to travel; followed it for about eight miles in about an +east-south-east course. From here (Camp 20) for some distance (seen from +a hill here) the river appears to receive from the east by south +generally plenty of water at intervals and generally at those places +running; no doubt all the way it runs either over or under the land. +Where we are now encamped the river is upwards of 150 yards broad. We +found on turning out the camel meat to air that it was quite putrid and +had consequently to throw the whole of it away; at this time it is a very +great loss to us, the loss of upwards of seventy pounds of food. Even +with the spell our horses have had they come along very indifferently, +and I am almost afraid some more of them will have to be left behind as I +have not sufficient food to wait spelling for them till they get flesh; +there does not appear to be the same nourishment in the grass that there +is almost anywhere else. Saw the smoke of natives a few miles ahead of +us; I suppose we will see something of them tomorrow. Shot a new pigeon, +will try to preserve the skin. Some figs were got by some of the party +this morning before starting; I ate one of them apparently ripe, it was +very insipid, the principal part of them were full of small flies. +Distance travelled by bed of river not direct about ten and a half miles. + +Friday, June 20. + +Camp 20. Heavy dew last night; sky completely overcast with very heavy +rainy-looking clouds. We have now on hand dried meat sufficient for about +five and a half days, at the rate of one pound three ounces per day +without salt or anything else, which is not very heavy diet. I never saw +a country where less game was to be obtained; what euro and wallaby are +here are so very wild there is no getting near them. Just here the hills +are not so high or so rough as some distance further down; I hope they +may continue so, that the animals won't be distressed more than possible. +Not a breath of wind this morning. Our course as seen from a hill close +by last night will be about east-south-east for some distance this +morning. Started at 8.10 a.m.; at three and a quarter miles came to a +barrier right across from range to range, and after considerable +detention succeeded in finding a road on our left round the range that +the barriers form from; at four miles came to where one branch (the +largest) comes from the south with plenty of water in its bed in the +stone and rocks; the other branch is considerably to the east so will try +it, although it does not at all look a watery branch but is much more in +the direction I want to go. About the same course, over much more open +country, hilly and thinly clad with small ironbark timber, and is chiefly +of slate formation and well-grassed, but no water in its bed as far as we +went, say about five and a half miles further where we fortunately got +sufficient at the junction of a small side creek with the main +watercourse to suit our immediate wants. It is perfectly surprising to +see such a broad channel with such ranges close by and no water. One +other of our best horses obliged to be left behind today; he has been +ailing for some short time and all at once refused to proceed. A few +kangaroo seen today. I trust we will fall in with plenty of water +tomorrow, our horses never do so well as when they can go to water +themselves instead of watering out of buckets. For some distance the +creek bears to north of east; in fact the next bend, about a mile long, +is from north or so, when it appears to turn to south and east. We +managed occasionally during today to get upon the slopes from the hills +on either side of the creek, which was much better travelling than in the +soft sandy bed of the creek, which I have called Stuart's Creek after Mr. +McDouall Stuart, the indefatigable explorer of South Australia. This part +would make a good sound sheep country if water at all times was +obtainable. A number of oaks all along this branch, and more just here on +our left side of the creek where the water is, and we are encamped. + +Saturday, June 21. + +Camp 21. The clouds of yesterday passed over with only a few drops of +rain just after starting. Today cloudy again; wind from east by north; +started at 7.53 a.m. As the horses came in to water, just before +starting, we found that the horse Jamie had come up during the night but +looks hardly able to drag his legs after him. It is a great pity as he is +a splendid hackney and is a great loss at present. The narrow-leafed +papery-barked tree grows on the sides of the creek to a great size and +height, completely overtopping the gums, oaks, etc. There is very little +feed in this part of the country that the camels are fond of. At about +four miles, creek running, with plenty of feed; for three and a half +miles further the creek comes from north-east by north, then a little +more east. General course today about north-east and distance travelled +about sixteen miles, when we fortunately got sufficient water in a +barrier in the creek, evidently from recent rain, the bed of the creek +otherwise perfectly dry. Three more horses knocked up and obliged to be +left behind, namely Bawley, Fidget, and Camel (mare) although good +travelling. Ascended hill at camp and found that the first leading main +range bears east and about 40 degrees north, which I intend making for. + +Sunday, June 22. + +Camp 22. Wind from east by north and cloudy; obliged to lighten further +our load by leaving the tents and spare pack-saddles and bags here on +north side of creek; started at 8.20 a.m. The barrier here is composed of +a yellow close-grained stone impregnated with small specks of quartz, and +the hills on either side, pieces of granite of the same kind are also +strewed in the bed, brought down by the currents. A few oak-trees +immediately above this camp. Passed over hilly well-grassed ironbark +granite country on a bearing of about 90 degrees (but first of all a +little to the north of that, and afterwards as much to the south, which +equalised the bearing) for the point of a range which I mean to ascend. +Got to it at eleven and a half miles; then quarter of a mile along top of +range, the ascent of which we found excessively difficult, and had two of +our best horses nearly killed by falling backwards down the hill, and +only being brought up from going to the bottom and getting smashed by +some trees and rocks; the camels especially we had to unpack twice (two +ascents) and I once thought we were not to get them up they are so weak, +especially the smallest one--a splendid little animal. Then we got a +comparatively easy descent and made for north end of a heavy range close +by on a bearing of 85 degrees. At three-quarters of a mile got to the end +of it, over rough country intercepted with innumerable creeks, hills, +rock, and timber; then bore east-south-east for distant bluff of range +along well-grassed but very hilly sound country for two miles. Could +hardly get the small camel along, and no appearance of water, and it +within an hour of sunset. Went down the spur of a small range we were on +and providentially at the bottom found in a little blind creek sufficient +excellent water for ourselves and all the animals. I'm sure I don't know +what the poor animals would have done had we not found them water; and to +our uneasiness two of the men, Maitland and Kirby, were seized with +sickness on the road and useless to us. I found after getting over the +large range that I could have got round it had I kept south, and by +travelling a circuitous route, but from the western side of the range the +way I came was the only way visible that was passable, and it was nearly +as impassable as it was possible for it to be. From the top of it you +command a very extensive view in all directions. To the south in the +distance is a fine long leading range, apparently running from +west-north-west to east-south-east; to the north and west high black +ranges; to the east heavy dark ranges but don't appear united. Drainage +can't make out. + +Monday, June 23. + +Camp 23. Heavy dew, cloudy morning. Will be obliged to stay here to +recruit the animals where there is plenty of excellent feed and +sufficient water, and am sorry to say kill a horse and endeavour to dry +or jerk him, in the meantime I hope the weather may prove favourable for +that purpose. I did hope not to be driven to killing the horses; had I +for a moment thought so when at the Gulf I would have shaped my course +south for Adelaide, but I never dreamt of such a rough country as I found +in this direction, Walker and Landsborough will have found it so +likewise. Ascended one of the ridges close by but could not tell which +way the principal drainage went, it is open forest land from north of +east by south round to north of west for a great extent of miles, with +heavy ranges beyond, and a couple of breaks apparently in the range at +110 and 145 degrees, which to take I have not yet made up my mind, and +the horses are so weak that I don't wish to take more out of them than +can possibly be avoided, and reconnoitring at present would only cause +probably another horse or two to be left, which is everything but +advisable. Wind was fresh during the night. Killed one of the horses had +of Mr. Scott, being most suitable for our purpose, and an excellent +packhorse he was, always having carried during our travels one of the +heaviest packs, and was one of the unfortunate animals that fell down the +range yesterday. It is a little cloudy but I hope it will blow off and +give us favourable weather for drying his flesh; ate his heart, liver, +and kidneys, and found them excellent made into a sort of hash with a +little remnant of pepper we had. + +Tuesday, June 24. + +Camp 23. A little dew early part of the night, but little the remainder. +Keen cold wind from all quarters, chiefly from north-east to south-east +and clear sky; if it continues will suit our meat-drying well, which will +be of vast advantage to us; to lose the flesh of another animal as we did +the camel's would indeed be a serious loss. Our two patients Maitland and +Kirby deadly sick; whatever can be wrong with them I can't imagine; the +latter has been ailing off and on for some time and has got dispirited in +the rough country. Busy this morning cutting up the flesh of the horse +and tying it on the lines to dry; had he been in good condition it would +take a good judge to distinguish his flesh from beef; it makes most +excellent hash and soup. One of our horses has mysteriously got lame in +his stifle since coming here, I hope not permanently. + +Wednesday, June 25. + +Camp 23. Wind the same as yesterday and fluctuating--very heavy dew last +night and very cold. The last two days have been warm and suit our +purpose for meat-drying admirably. The two invalids are still very +unwell, but trust they will be better by the time the meat is thoroughly +dry and cause us no unnecessary detention till we get into the stations +on the river Burdekin, where they can have a change of food. The horses +appear to benefit on this spell and feed. + +Thursday, June 26. + +Still in Camp 23. Heavy dew, foggy morning till about 10 a.m. when the +meat was hung out to dry. Wind from all quarters but turned out rather a +nice warm day, and will be about sufficient to dry our meat to enable us +to start in the morning. Shoeing some of the horses that cast their shoes +over the rough country, and preparing for a start; the lame horse is a +little better; the invalids I cannot say are much improved. There is a +great scope of good pastoral land here but rather hilly. I have made up +my mind to try what appears to be the easiest and, from here, the +straightest course on a bearing of 110 degrees. The drainage appears to +go from here firstly to the south-east, receiving all the drainage of the +large ranges apparently from 110 degrees round to south, when it appears +to turn suddenly round some prominent ranges after receiving drainage +from the westward of this, and uniting in one large watercourse and +flowing behind a large leading range to south and east. Probably the head +of the River Clarke takes its rise here. + +Friday, June 27. + +Wind as usual for the last few mornings--northerly; heavy dew but a +beautiful morning. The natives were busy grass-burning south-south-east +of this in the valley last afternoon. It was observed too late or I would +have gone down to them and might have got some information from them as +regards the courses of the different creeks, etc. etc., and probably the +whereabouts of the nearest station on the Burdekin or one of its +tributaries, so that we might be enabled to get a supply of food by the +time this is exhausted. The horse turned out for us about seventy pounds +of nearly dry meat which I trust will last us till we get to where there +is beef or mutton. Started at 8.30 a.m., first on bearing of 119 degrees +for a saddle in a low ridge between this and the large range for two and +a half miles, then drainage to this point southerly; then bearing of 110 +degrees for five and a half to six miles farther, drainage for two-thirds +of this distance to the northward; at the end of the distance arrived at +a nice brook running to southward close under the range. Got to a peak in +the pass at two miles farther on last bearing (110 degrees) then bearing +of 101 degrees, firstly over rather rough granite country, latterly over +good pastoral, and latterly to a reedy swamp with small water-creeks +coming in from right and left. Followed on the south-eastern side of the +swamp for some little distance and camped at two and a half miles +further. The whole country today is I may say composed of granite, and +sound country well-grassed and watered. Distance travelled about ten and +three-quarters to eleven miles. After getting to camp went and ascended +one of the highest hills near to get a view of the country ahead; had a +very extensive view from it, apparently comparatively level country from +62 1/2 to 103 1/2 degrees for some distance, with a sudden dip at about +twelve to eighteen miles distant, heavy ranges in the distance beyond, +and as seen from this hill very rugged and mountainous country from 62 +1/2 degrees by north round considerably to east of south. On a bearing of +about 140 degrees under the range I am now on there appears to be a +considerable tract of openly timbered and level country, but which way +the drainage goes is difficult to determine from top of hill. The swamp +and creek we are encamped on and after passing this appears to flow about +north, or a little to west of that, but from the top of the hill could +see no break in the main ranges to allow of its passing through to either +northward or westward. + +Saturday, June 28. + +Camp 24. Course 90 degrees, heavy dew, beautiful morning. The water +although running strong here is of a milky appearance. Started at 8.10 +a.m. over granite ridge and crossed swamp and water-creek to north. At +two and a quarter miles boulders of lava on the eastern side; at two and +three-quarter miles crossed large creek with plenty of water, which I +have called Frank's Creek after F. Marchant, Esquire, of Arkaba north of +Adelaide. It comes from southward. At four and a half miles crossed small +running rivulet from south; at five miles crossed a larger one from same +direction; at six and three-quarter miles crossed a running creek in a +swamp from south also; at seven and three-quarter miles crossed a +splendid creek with oaks, etc., quantity of swampy ground on either side +flowing same as last, which I have called the George after George +Marchant, Esquire, of Wilpena north of Adelaide. At ten and a quarter +miles crossed rivulet running to south; at ten and three-quarter miles +examined boggy swamp with plenty of water, drainage to south. At eleven +miles on top of small rocky range. Most extensive view ahead of +level-looking country. At twelve and a half miles boggy swamp, went round +the south end of it, its drainage is northward; at fifteen miles crossed +a good-sized creek with sandy bed, some oaks, the water merely trickling +through the sand but sufficient for all our wants; good timber. Camped +here. Two of the horses nearly knocked up. Creek flows east on passing +this. + +Sunday, June 29. + +Camp 25. Maitland very unwell, Kirby only so-so. There is also water in a +small creek close by to south which joins this creek close by; ranges +visible within a few miles to south of south-west; wind from southward +chiefly but variable; I have called the creek we encamped on last night +Burt's Creek after G. Burt, Esquire, of Adelaide. Started at 8.18 a.m. on +course of 90 degrees; at half a mile crossed large rocky creek from the +south with boulders of lava in its bed; there was lava also at starting; +a continuation of rough lava country for three miles; bad travelling. At +three and three-quarter miles crossed strong running river or creek, +granite bed; fish; with oaks, current to northward. At six miles crossed +small dry sandy creek to east-north-east; top of granite ridge at six and +one third of a mile: spelled nineteen minutes for a view; bearing of 84 +1/2 degrees for a distant knoll in what appears a leading range, and a +possibility of getting easily over it. At one mile crossed a small dry +creek to east-north-east; at two miles crossed dry sandy creek to +east-north-east; at two and three-quarter miles crossed oak creek (dry) +to east-north-east; at five and two-third miles crossed large oak creek +(dry) to east by north; at one and three-quarter miles further came to +lagoon, not very large but suits our purpose for a camp as one of the +horses can't be persuaded to come on. I expect I will have to kill him to +live upon for a few days whilst the other horses spell; some of them are +very weak but the feed is too dry to kill him here; distance travelled +about thirteen and three-quarter miles. Saw three emus today and a few +turkeys; kangaroos were also seen for the last two days; the strong +running river that we crossed at three and three-quarter miles from camp +this morning I have called the McKay after G. McKay, Esquire, of Mellia, +William's River, New South Wales. The latter part of today the feed has +been very dry but generally speaking it is an excellent country for any +kind of stock; the only impediment to sheep is the very abrupt banks of +the creeks for drays for the cartage of wool, but that would be got over +with well searching; saw a native but he made off at full speed when he +observed us. + +Monday, June 30. + +Camp 26. A good deal of box and apple-tree about here; our chief timber +of late has been ironbark and other very useful trees, with gums always +about the creeks and swamps. Saw yesterday on the way a few of that +ornamental fruit-tree of Cooper's Creek, which I have not seen for some +time, but it was of small growth; the soil I suppose not being suitable. +Will go on for some distance on same bearing as yesterday, to see if I +meet better and more green feed accompanied with water to spell the +horses. Although I am quite satisfied that I am close upon the Burdekin +still I may not be close upon any of the stations. Little dew last night, +wind light, and latterly a little inclined to be cloudy; sun rose 58 +degrees east of north. Started at 8.3 a.m. At three-quarters of a mile +crossed a creek from the east-south-east, deep and dry; rather thickly +timbered country and not so rich. Gradual ascent to top of ridge; +division of waters about three-quarters of a mile west of the mound or +peak I was steering for at four miles. Abreast of peak at four and +three-quarter miles; went to top of it; it was very steep and composed of +very rough sandstone, granite, and decaying slaty stones. Had a pretty +extensive view from it; but my view north, of 62 1/2 degrees, was +intercepted by rough ranges. The drainage from this tier of ranges, +eastern side, appears in the first instance to go to east-south-east or +even south of that; and afterwards when all the watercourses unite in the +flat some distance off to go to north and east. Started from this peak on +bearing of 62 1/2 degrees for a break I observed in the distant range; at +one mile crossed an oak creek (dry) to east-south-east; at three and a +half miles crossed another oak creek (dry) lots of kangaroo about, and no +doubt there is water although we did not see it in our course; at four +and a quarter miles came to and crossed a swamp and creek with water in +one hole that will be sufficient for us and camp. Maitland so ill he can +hardly hang on the horse's back and the horse Jack knocked up; killed him +during the afternoon; although a bag of bones he will make soup for a few +days and give Maitland a chance of recruiting, and will be a means of +refreshing the horses and camels. Journey today about nine miles, the +latter part very ridgy and rather rough although well-grassed; but +indifferent travelling on account of the watercourses down the slopes +being rather deep and steep on both sides. Kirby still keeps about the +same thing; he is a mere bag of bones compared to what he used to be. +Palmer has been complaining for some time and gets little better or +worse; a violent headache generally seizing him about noon every day. +Hodgkinson is also generally complaining. Wind afternoon from north. + +Tuesday, July 1. + +Camp 27, or Jack's Swamp after our unfortunate horse; poor old fellow, +many a score miles he carried me till some time ago he got a little lame +and has never done so well since. No dew last night. Bell is, as he has +always been, a day complaining and a day well; Davis something similar; +Middleton has now got quite well and the rest of us are all pretty right +but would be all the better of a change of food for the better; none of +us appear very energetic on horse-food; unfortunately maggots got into it +and did not improve it either in appearance or quality, but we are not +over nice now. Plenty of splendid timber in this part of the country. +Wind rather strong from north and continues steady in that quarter. +Trying today to jerk a portion of the horse to cause what we have got to +spin out. A good many fleecy clouds flying about early part of afternoon +and the wind has changed a little to the west of north. In our present +state we don't want to see any rain till we get into the stations, as now +we are tentless and of course have nothing to cover the sick in case of +wet. Late in the afternoon wind considerably to the west, at sunset quite +a calm, very cloudy and every appearance of rain, trust that it will blow +off. A great number of large-sized kangaroos here but rather shy. +Although there is abundance of grass of different kinds here the camels +eat but little of it and do very badly; about the lakes north-east of +Lake Torrens is the place for them; they eat nearly everything in the +shape of grass and shrubs that grow there, but here it is quite +different; but few acacias here of which they are very fond. + +Wednesday, July 2. + +Camp, Jack's Swamp. No rain last night and but little dew; the clouds +have all dispersed. Wind from north varying to east and west of that +point and a beautiful hot day. The horses appearing to do well. Maitland +improving; Kirby about the same, also Palmer. + +Thursday, July 3. + +Camp, Jack's Swamp. Little dew again last night, wind northerly and +easterly throughout the day, sun rather warm but not disagreeably so. The +hills hereabouts are composed of substrata of decomposing sandstone with +roots growing or dead in the fissures, the top rugged at and near the +crest, with a description of stone like decaying burnt brick, broken into +fragments although apparently united; very precipitous and often +overhanging near the tops of the ranges, with table-tops, generally +scrubby, still with good timber even on top and where it is more open, +fair grass in places and spinifex in others, with heavy deep ravines down +the slopes on all sides and well-grassed and timbered in the valleys. +From the top of range near our camp one has an extensive view; southward +is a large valley, the receiver of all the drainage of the hills east and +west of it; south the range is low and over it can be discerned several +conical wooded hills of greater and lesser sizes; beyond them in the +distance can be seen two considerable ranges from north-north-east to +south-south-west; at the latter point they suddenly terminate in nearly +precipitous bluffs, showing that there must be a stream of some +importance skirting that end of them, or some extensive valley; an easy +way of arriving at them would be south from this camp and over the low +dividing ridge; the waters or creeks in this valley, after uniting into +one or more large courses, flow to north and east till they pass east of +this a few miles off; further view is intercepted by the ranges north and +east of that. Maitland appears much better today and Kirby I think is +improving a little; Palmer is not quite so well. I hope he will soon get +over his illness; he is a very useful man; neither shoeing horses nor +almost anything comes wrong to him; indeed he has shod all the horses I +may say since he joined the party, and has been a very useful fellow. + +Friday, July 4. + +Camp 27, Jack's Swamp. Very cold during the night. Every appearance of a +nice day. What little wind there is is from north. We start from this +with 46 pounds of dried horse flesh which I hope will be sufficient to +carry us to stations on the Burdekin. The invalids and animals have +improved during their stay here, and we start this morning on about our +last bearing generally, although we cannot go direct from the hilliness +of the country. Bearing 62 1/2 degrees. All round this quarter quartz of +colours is strewed over the face of the country in addition to the +decomposing stones. Started at 8.6 a.m. firstly up the swamp side +northerly a short distance, then easterly over a saddle in the range for +the eastern slopes towards the main drainage to the northwards. At half a +mile on top of the saddle in the range with drainage to the east. Then +had to keep a little northerly of our course to avoid a rugged range on +the right. At about eleven miles direct struck the main drainage creek +(Ross's Creek after W. Ross, Esquire, Mulma, Murray, New South Wales) but +the actual distance travelled was considerably over that. Then followed +the creek on a bearing of about 20 degrees off and on. At one and a +quarter miles it receives a considerable tributary from west-south-west +(Cole's Creek after S. Cole, Esquire, Commissioner of Crown Lands, +Euston, New South Wales). A large mass of hard dark-coloured, +slaty-coloured rock in the centre of the two creeks with a passage on +each side. At four miles it receives a very deep but narrow creek from +the west (Beveridge's Creek after Peter Beveridge, Esquire, Swan Hill, +Victoria). Obliged to get into the main creek to pass it. Plenty of water +and feed. Camped. A splendid creeper (scarlet) is here upon a number of +trees, climbing to their very top. The fruit is very showy, oblong and +quite the size of an orange but tastes exceedingly nauseous, full of +pulpy seeds, birds and opossums eat them. After getting to camp went to +top of a high range at three-quarter mile distant east-south-east. From +it I had an extensive view. At 40 degrees easy to pass through range. +From 82 to 90 degrees very mountainous. 5 degrees a very extensive valley +apparently inclining westwards. Blacks burning at 10 degrees in the +distance. North is a large irregular peak range; in the distance another +a little east of it. + +Saturday, July 5. + +Camp 28. Dewless night as was also the night before and several others +previous. Very hot yesterday. Last night during the whole night the sky +was completely overcast and close, this morning the same. The main creek +here is well lined with gums and well-grown oaks, the bank fringed with +reeds; low down is about fifty yards wide at the bottom level and twice +that width at top and steep but grassed all down the slopes. The forest +over which we travelled yesterday was very much cut up with sudden and +deep watercourses, making the travelling more difficult, and in many +places was stony (brown stone). Started at 8.23 a.m., the horses having +ranged rather far. Crossed the creek and on bearing of 22 degrees along +it pretty good travelling through open timber, till at about two and +three-quarter miles the creek came too close under a range to allow us to +follow anywhere near its banks. Ascended the range and at three miles the +creek on the left changed course to from 40 to 45 degrees; sometimes to +the north of that, at other times to the south of it. At a short distance +over the flat, after descending the range which was of no great +elevation, came on the creek again and followed it on the above bearing. +As we struck the creek the footprints of two horses in the bed of the +creek, and shortly after more and more, which at first led us to suppose +that the country was stocked thus far up; but after following along in +the bed we found the traces to be all about the same age and that some +time back. At length on right side of creek on the bank, at the distance +on our last course of three and a quarter miles, we saw the remains of an +old camp, ridge pole, and uprights, with the letter K cut on a couple of +gumtrees, which at once led us to believe it was some party or other +marking the boundaries of their runs. Got up out of the creek at this +place and went on bearing of about 20 to 25 degrees. Immediately after +starting on this bearing we passed over rather open ground with spinifex +but not very strong. The creek now out of sight on the left. At three and +one-eighth of a mile struck what I take to be the Burdekin, but no tracks +of drays or stock of any kind up this length. It flows east at this +place. Went about three-quarters of a mile on this course and two of the +horses becoming knocked up I am obliged to halt. What told upon them so +much today was that the banks of the creek were so rugged we were obliged +to travel in the loose sand in the bed of the creek. We hope to make +better progress tomorrow. From here the river appears to flow about 15 +degrees north of east but that won't continue far; I imagine we are a +little above the junction of the Perry with this river. The bed of the +Burdekin at this camp is about from 90 to 100 yards, and the +strong-running stream is confined between bergues on the north side to a +space of about twenty yards, and little better than knee-deep. Only a few +small fish visible. Magnificent gums on its banks and plenty of excellent +timber in every direction. This will be a most difficult part of the +country for drays travelling on account of the many steep-sided creeks. +At anything like a flood quite impracticable. + +Sunday, July 6. + +Camp 29. Last evening the wind blew for a short time fresh from east by +north then lulled down; shortly after the sky became overcast and during +the night we had a light Scotch mist; this morning no wind but sky +overcast with every appearance of rain. We tried some green hide that we +were reserving for camel's boots in our soup of this morning, and being +pickled in salt when taken from the bullock it imparted quite an +agreeable flavour to our scanty meal and we all enjoyed it much. Some of +the party put up badly with this short diet and appear to get quite +dispirited, although at sight of the tracks yesterday they are quite +elated, but it was only for a short time to become further depressed +after. Horses all about amongst the bergues and high grass; late at +starting. Started at 9.12 a.m.; for the first three and three-quarter +miles through open forest, good country; large oak creek from the +south-west joins the river at that distance. Our course to this was to +south of east-south-east nearly south-east; the river then bears east for +some distance, then north, then south, and afterwards to about +south-east; first part through some exceedingly intricate country, hills +close on the river with deep ravines and most difficult travelling. In +its present state no dray in the world could pass by it; first of all we +got one of the camels down in a creek, next one of the horses rolled over +into the creek and we had to make a road for them at last to descend into +the creek; now into and along the bed of the river; now up the steep +banks and then up stony hills to head, or more easily cross the ravines, +which was very trying to our animals, and finally completely knocked up +one of the weak horses which was with much persuasion got to the camp in +the afternoon after the camp was formed. After arriving he was killed and +we commenced to use his flesh to save the other dry meat as we must spare +a day here to refresh the animals; the latter part of the day's journey +was over rather better travelling; the hills still close to the river +with deep ravines. On this last bearing fully six miles on the opposite +or left bank of the river, at about two miles distance from our camp here +a large creek with abundance of running water joins from north-west by +north through apparently a not prepossessing country, very hilly and +little or no valley belonging to it; in travelling along the bed of the +river occasionally the bed is of a quicksand nature and very heavy. Sun +quite overcast all day, at night it cleared off. Wind south-east. + +Monday, July 7. + +Camp 30. Although the stars were out during the night and no dew we have +it very cloudy again today. I went to top of one of the highest hills on +right bank of river today and had an extensive view. The river appears to +bear nearly east generally for the north end of some large mountains in +that direction, at which place I think the river receives the River Perry +from the north and then flows south. Between the hill I was on and that +there appears to be a good deal of level-looking country, and the hills +on this side seem in a great measure to cease a short distance off. In +every other direction it is rugged with high broken hills and an +indifferent grass upon them with the exception of the very limited flats +near the river, on which latter there is always abundance of good feed +and splendid timber. Wind still from south-east by east but little of it. +The creek that joins this river about two miles up coming from north-west +by north I have called Clark's Creek after Walter Clark, Esquire, of Deep +Creek near Melbourne. The banks of the river are here very steep and +difficult of access. + +Tuesday, July 8. + +Camp 30. Heavy dew last night; foggy this morning. Very dense vegetation +along the banks and bergues of the river. The fish seen as yet are but +small, the largest are of the catfish kind. Started at 8.45 a.m., late, +the horses, even with the abundance of feed here, having strayed in all +directions. At one and three-quarter miles crossed narrow and deep +running creek from south by east. One of the camels in going up the hill +out of it tumbled over backwards, and detained us forty-two minutes. Then +ascended stony hills to avoid the ravines close to the river. At four and +a quarter miles a conical stony-topped hill close by on right, south, and +south of that a swamp with poplar, gums, etc., river close on left, +country open both sides of river, particularly opposite side to +north-north-east; at five and three-quarter miles crossed creek from +south-east (good, not broad nor deep but abundance of water) then +undulating stony country with low-sized trees (stunted) river bearing +northward; at seven and three-quarter miles crossed creek from south-east +by east, a little water; at nine miles crossed narrow deep creek, +bald-topped range of hills close ahead same side of river, running from +north to south. The river here sweeps round the north end of them, making +a considerable detour to north of east; we ascended the easiest of the +ridges easterly to avoid the steep gullies, and saw the river taking a +sweep south; I think it receives the Perry at its south bend. At twelve +and a half miles on an easterly bearing changed course to south by west, +or even west of that, over ridgy but good travelling and latterly flat +country, well grassed, for two and three-quarter miles and camped, one of +the camels refusing to travel, lying down occasionally. Distance +travelled about fifteen and a quarter miles. I wish our animals were now +in the same condition they were at Hayward's Creek and I would soon be at +Port Denison. I am surprised that the squatting stations are not further +advanced up this river. Our invalids are slowly recruiting. Has been a +beautiful day. + +Wednesday, July 9. + +Camp 31. Heavy dew last night. To give the horses a chance of doing +better last night they were let go without hobbles, and this morning they +have strayed to some distance and again caused us to be late in starting. +Started at 11.10 a.m. A number of natives must have been here on our +arrival last afternoon but must have decamped very hastily on hearing us, +leaving all their spears, cooking and cooked vegetables, food, etc. etc.; +the food they were cooking in their ovens and what was lying cooked +consisted of excellent roots of some kind or other, and a round fruit +which they roast and which is very good. We used all the roots and found +them most excellent and left in exchange a tomahawk, which no doubt will +suit their purpose as well, and suited us much better. I took the +precaution of carrying all their spears up to our camp, that in case they +might return to their camp in the night they might not molest us; it +saved us keeping watch but we neither saw nor heard anything of them +except their dogs howling. Numbers of blue mountain parrots here, and a +few ducks only. The river here is formidable and the banks rather steep +for easy access. On the south-south-easterly course; at one and +three-quarter miles crossed deep rocky creek with a little rainwater and +very steep banks; at three and a quarter miles passed a lagoon, more +lagoons off to the south-west under the low ridges; at six miles crossed +a small oak creek from south-west by west; at seven and three-quarter +miles crossed small good creek with plenty of water from south-west by +west. Halted at a couple of lagoons, nine and a quarter miles. One of the +camels we will be compelled to leave here; he has been a most useful +animal; we will in consequence have to curtail further our little effects +and leave many things behind. Our journey direct south-east and little +south today has not been more than about seven miles. The lagoons which +are deep run in a north-west by west half west course. Buried things we +left at south side of ironbark tree fifty-two paces about west 28 degrees +south of a marked tree and camp fire. + +Thursday, July 10. + +Camp 32. Ice in the quart pots this morning, the first we have seen +during the whole of our wanderings up to this; but I once before saw +where it had nipped off the young burnt feed before making the Burdekin. +Have called this Coppin's lagoons after our camel that is left here. +Started at 8.52 a.m. south-east about two and a half miles or so. At one +and three-quarter miles on an easterly bearing crossed a rocky and sandy +narrow deep creek from south by west with plenty of water in large holes; +good travelling till we turned easterly, then a little ridgy; at three +and a quarter miles a large creek from north-north-east joins the river +in a bend; a large mount in about that direction. The river now suddenly +turns south-east to south-south-east from east-north-east; at six and a +quarter miles crossed the River Clarke and had a tumble, horse and all, +heels over head into it; it had no stream but large sheets of water in +its bed (sandy). From south-west by west the large range on opposite side +of the Burdekin runs about east-south-east and west-north-west, splendid +bold mounts; crossed oak creek from south-west by south at nine and +three-quarter miles; from junction of this creek westerly end of mountain +range, table-topped, beyond the Burdekin bears 341 degrees; at eleven and +a quarter miles crossed small steep creek. The river, now closely +confined between steep hills, kept along the stony bottom of the range +for some time, but the camel turning over, and it being more rough ahead, +was obliged to get into and follow the bed of the river for some +distance. At twelve and three-quarter miles ascended the riverbank on +same side; at thirteen and a quarter miles crossed very steep creek with +water, and at fifteen miles halted at a small rocky creek on the ranges +with water and feed sufficient for our use. Since ascending the banks out +of the river our course has been about north 50 degrees east over a +succession of stony ridges with some spinifex. + +Friday, July 11. + +Camp 33. Heavy dew last night. Started at 8.15 a.m. on same bearing over +ridges till three and a quarter miles, being the point where Dr. +Leichhardt descended the steep mount close by. From this point the mount +and peak on opposite side of the river some distance off bears as +follows: south-west of table top 280 degrees, north-east peak 331 1/2 +degrees. Got into the bed of the river here comparatively easily and +followed it down its rocky and sandy bed for some distance till obliged +to turn out on the opposite side. A large island of rocks in the centre +of the river and deep water on both sides, the hills precipitous into the +river. We got up the opposite side pretty easily and followed it down, +crossing a deep ravine and stony ridge, and recrossed at two and +three-quarter miles on a bearing north of east, and crossed the river +back again, very steep on the side we crossed from but good getting out, +and came over ridgy, and latterly, basalt country, on bearing of about +east-south-east, and camped on the opposite side of the river at three +miles on last bearing, where there was a suitable place in the bed of the +river for killing one of our horses which was completely knocked up. This +camp is about two miles up from where the river takes a south-east bend +and receives a river running into it at that bend. About one-quarter mile +from it and nearer our camp another large running creek joins the +Burdekin which I have called the Campbell after Dal. Campbell, Esquire, +Melbourne. The larger one below, which is about one-third the width of +the Burdekin but down which quite as great a supply of water is running, +I have taken the liberty of calling the Bowen after His Excellency Sir G. +Bowen, Governor of Queensland. The latter stream joins the Burdekin from +north by east but comes from distant mountainous ranges to the east of +north-east. The smaller stream the Campbell joins the Burdekin from north +by west, but comes from north, or a little east of that, from a +mountainous country. As seen from a hill close by to west of the Campbell +the Burdekin there comes from a little north of west, and flows to south +20 degrees east, but not visible either way far. + +Saturday, July 12, Sunday, July 13, Monday, July 14, 1862. + +In camp, drying horseflesh; the wind from east; dewy, and at daylight +foggy along the banks and valley of the river but soon clears off; we +have had splendid weather for drying our meat. Caught some very nice fish +but not sufficient to be of any real service. The timber is not anything +like as large or so good as it is further up the river. The bed of the +river here is from 400 to 500 yards wide. The horse Goliah has given us +fifty-two pounds dry meat. We have shot a few crows, a cormorant, and a +white eagle with blue back, to make a stew for breakfast, that with a +little salted hide and about two pounds dried meat will make a very good +meal as matters stand at present. The remainder of the dried meat and +what we may shoot I hope will last us as far as the Farming River, which +is about ninety miles from this, to which river I saw people start for +from Sydney upwards of twelve months ago, and they must certainly be +there now; perhaps we may be fortunate enough to meet them this side of +that. I have been quite disappointed at not finding the stations much +higher up the river even than where I now am. + +Tuesday, July 15. + +Camp 34. Dull morning; heavy dew; much sheet lightning during the night +to south and east, heavy clouds in that direction this morning. Started +at ---- a.m.; for the first half mile or more down the river bed east 8 +degrees south; then crossed and on bearing of south 35 degrees east; the +river at crossing not more than 100 yards wide; first part through open +timber, and gentle ascent for one and a quarter miles to a basalt and +sandstone range, flat, well-grassed table-topped, and descended the same +at two and a quarter miles; the dip from the table-top to the slope only +a few yards; large boulders of basalt and sandstone; then well-grassed +but ridgy and occasionally scrubby country; crossed springy creek at +west-north-west (gum); at three and a quarter miles crossed fine gum +creek, running, with lots of palms (corkscrew) from west-south-west at +five miles; the country good till six miles, when it becomes more ridgy +and stony, with spinifex, but improves shortly after; at eight miles +crossed good creek; springs, etc., from south half east; close under +ranges towards the source of the creek the ridges open and apparently +well-grassed, though rather steep and stony; then over higher ranges and +stony ridges, well-grassed, and descended a very steep one, the river +close by on the left; at ten and a half miles rather rough, with ravines +at foot of the range running into the river; at eleven and a quarter +miles crossed a small creek from west-south-west with water in holes; +then rocky low ridges with but scant vegetation for a short distance; +then over rather flat travelling, well-grassed but indifferently +timbered, and a good deal of it inclined to be swampy in wet weather; a +good many poplar gums on it. The latter part rather rotten sandy ground. +Made the river at the point where it is forced by rocks on the opposite +side to this, sweeping out a very large piece of the bank on this side to +the distance of several hundred yards, making the river bed at this sweep +quite 800 yards across and well-timbered round the sweep on this side; +caught some excellent fish this afternoon, a black bream, the largest +five inches deep and fifteen to sixteen inches in length, excellent +firm-eating fish and a great help to our evening meal. Distance today +about fifteen and two-thirds miles. Rained a little during the afternoon +with first of all a strong gale from the southward accompanied with +thunder. Saw a platypus in the river this afternoon, first I have seen +during the journey. Cormorants here are numerous but difficult to be got +at and our shot is not heavy enough for them. Our crow-stew was excellent +this morning. + +Wednesday, July 16. + +Camp 35. A good shower during the night; foggy this morning, but the rain +evidently all cleared off; started at 8.3 a.m. course south by east; +crossed deep creek from north-west by west, little water; at two and a +half miles passed a swamp; at three and three-quarter miles crossed oak +creek from west-south-west; at four and a quarter miles changed course to +south 35 degrees east; crossed at one and three-quarter miles a small +creek from north-north-west, plenty of waterholes; same creek afterwards +was close on our left at five and three-quarter miles where it joins the +river, and another oak creek close by joins at nearly or at same place. +Then changed course to south 11 degrees east and passed lagoon at three +miles; passed through an end of considerable swamp; at six and a quarter +miles on our left and after going a short way saw where it had wound +round a ridge and was a large sheet of water and swampy land; before and +after this passed through several nasty thick belts of scrub with a very +fine large white tree with dark rough butt growing amongst it, Moreton +Bay ash, I imagine; made the river at nine and three-quarter miles where +some drays and sheep had crossed some time since; followed the river down +one and a quarter miles south-south-west, and crossed a fine creek from +west by north and camped about three-quarters of a mile up the creek; one +branch of it comes from north-west by north, the other and best from west +half south. Basalt ridge close to the river and south banks of creek; a +short distance down the river a cliffy precipitous tier of ranges comes +right on to the river with dark scrubby-looking tops. On the right bank +of the creek with its junction with the river is a mass of sandstone with +bullets of stones through it, and a yellow hard-looking clay perfectly +detached, the clay wall having a dip of about 45 degrees to south-west; +abundance of water up the left hand or southernmost creek. Distance +travelled twenty to twenty-one miles. I have called the creek we are now +encamped on Gibson's after ---- Gibson, Esquire, of Great Bourke Street, +Melbourne. + +Thursday, July 17. + +Camp 36. Ice again this morning, very cold during the night. Started at 8 +a.m.; four and a half miles on bearing of south by east along and over +basalt country, crossed rocky oak creek at three and a half miles from +west by south, swampy; continued this bearing for six and three-quarter +to seven miles and changed course to 60 degrees east of south; one and +three-quarter miles an immense swamp and lagoons, basalt ridges; close +round crossed over these ridges; bore a little more to the east; and at +five and three-quarters crossed a splendid stream from south by west with +a number of anabranches. Basalt on the flats as well as the ridges; +changed course to about east by south, horses tiring; halted at same, +strong-running stream at four and three-quarter miles; as it passes it +flows over falls in an east-south-east course along the foot of basalt +ridges and comes, as far as visible, from west and north. East of this, +apparently opposite side of the Burdekin River, are bald-topped ridges +about eight miles distant; basalt ridge on this side a considerable +distance in that direction. Distance twenty-two miles today. I have taken +the liberty of naming the stream (to all intents and purposes an +important river, though narrow compared with some streams, but down which +quite as great a supply of pure water is now running as in the Burdekin) +the River Browne after W.J. Browne, Esquire, of Booboorowie, South +Australia. Large masses of granite are here in the bed of this river and +on its banks, although the ridges close by are composed of very cellular +basalt and close-grained sandstone. No mountains visible at all close in +any direction. From the top of the heights, close to our camp, lots of +tracks of sheep and cattle. No appearance of a station; fancy they have +taken to the creeks. + +Friday, July 18. + +Very cold during the night, but beautiful morning. This river runs +parallel to the Burdekin for some distance and at only a very short +distance between. Started at 8.20 a.m. over the basalt ridges for the +sake of better travelling than we are likely to have in the Burdekin, for +some distance at least. South for one mile, then east-south-east through +open forest with basalt blocks occasionally, and rather swampy-inclined +land for two and three-quarter miles. Crossed a small sandy creek, vast +numbers of young palms, from south, then the land of granite formation +and stony; drainage to north and east. At three and one quarter miles +crossed large sandy creek with water and a number of large palms and +gums, from south-west, immediately after crossing, undulations of quite +sandy country but commencing with but little scrub; but at about three +miles from the creek obliged to turn out of it in a north-north-east +course or all our packs would have been torn off; the scrub was full of +game. On the last course we went about one and a half miles till we got +to the edge of the scrub, then about east by north for about one and a +half miles on to the south-west side of the large creek last crossed, now +in immense, large, deep, and long waterholes running in about an +east-south-east course, about parallel with the Burdekin, which creek we +followed on its right side, the scrub coming often to the banks. Very +fine stone fruit got here of a purple colour, quite an ornamental tree +about twenty-five to thirty feet high, fruit in clusters, about the size +of a large plum and very good boiled or roasted. At four miles on this +course crossed an oak creek from south half east, with water coming from +west side of stony ridges; then about three-quarter mile further to river +in a course east 15 degrees south, then followed down the river for about +one and a quarter miles and camped; distance travelled about sixteen and +one quarter miles. I have called this the Kissock after W. Kissock, +Esquire, Great Bourke Street, Melbourne. One of the horses completely +knocked up, and as we can observe no recent traces of stock on the river +made up my mind to kill him, spell a day, and carry as much of his flesh, +boiled, with us as will last a couple of days. The river is very broad +here, forming small falls with large blocks of granite-looking rocks, of +a light and some of a yellow colour, across its bed for some distance. + +Saturday, July 19. + +Spelled. Very cold night, beautiful morning, and throughout the day the +same weather. + +Sunday, July 20. + +Camp 38. Very cold night, beautiful morning. Proceed down the river. +Started at 8.37 a.m., our course for a short distance about south-east +then east-south-east; at one and a half miles crossed rocky creek, easily +passable for drays, from west-south-west; crossed sandy oak creek from +south-east by south (dry). At three miles crossed sandy palm creek (dry) +from south-south-east; at six and a quarter miles undulating nice +country; at eleven miles struck the river; a high point in a considerable +range on opposite side of river bears 88 degrees east from this point of +river. The river now runs in a south-west by south direction for about +one and three-quarter miles, and in that distance crossed two oak creeks, +one from west-north-west, the other from north-west by west; the river +then runs about south for about one and a half to one and three-quarter +miles, and suddenly takes a large bend to east or north of east, at which +bend a very large oak creek joins river from south-south-west; a range of +hills a short distance off on that same bearing. Camped in bed of creek; +lot of young oaks in bed of creek just sprouting. This creek I have taken +the liberty of calling the McKeachin after Alexander McKeachin, Esquire, +of Delagato, Manaroo, New South Wales. The timber here is neither so +abundant or so good for building purposes as higher up the river; the +latter is from 700 to 800 yards broad here, and a strong running stream +on right side. + +Monday, July 21. + +Camp 39. Hoar frost last night with ice on the ground again this morning +but beautiful weather. Started at 8.40 a.m. south-east by east to clear +creek and range, then south-east by south. Crossed sandy oak creek from +south half east. At half a mile crossed several sandy creeks near +together from west of south. At three miles crossed two sandy creeks from +west-south-west; when united will form a considerable one. At six miles +crossed large creek from south-west by south. Gums, palms, and the +paper-bark trees at six and three-quarter miles. Crossed at seven and a +half miles large creek with oaks, gums, paper-bark trees. From south by +west a very fine creek and excellent timber. No water at crossing but +abundance of reeds on banks. At ten and three-quarter miles considerably +ridgy, and passed large masses and cliffy hill, apparently of limestone. +Close on the right from the top of one of the ridges is seen to the right +a fine valley coming considerably from north of west and bearing off +round some high dark-looking hills ahead, with cliffy and rugged tops, no +doubt the valley of the Fanning River. Kept above course till at fourteen +and a quarter miles rough hills being close ahead, and the Fanning being +too much off to south and east, followed a small creek north-east for one +and a quarter miles and camped at a little water. The country here has +all been burned. Distance travelled about sixteen and a quarter miles. + +Tuesday, July 22. + +Camp 40. Neither dew or frost. Started at 7.52 a.m. north by east, +crossing two oak creeks from left to right, joining the one we camped on +last night. Made Burdekin River at eight miles. Highest point of Mount +Razorback bears from that point a little east of east-north-east. It has +been raining here lately. Then on bearing of east 15 degrees south at +three-quarters of a mile an oak creek joins the river from south, the +river then bears much away to east, or even north of east. Still on +bearing of east 15 degrees south. At two and a quarter miles crossed +small oak creek from south by west. At four and three-quarter miles +crossed fine large oak creek from south-south-west, sandy bed and reedy +banks. Open forest. Saw some natives and heard others who were much +alarmed. At eight and a half miles crossed sandy oak creek from +south-west, very zigzag in its course. Country very ridgy and inclined to +be lightly scrubby. Made the river at fourteen miles. Latter part very +ridgy and many precipitous creeks from the slopes, but otherwise +well-grassed. The greater part of the country travelled over today was of +granite formation with veins of quartz here and there, and lots of loose +quartz scattered about. A large hill opposite side of river here that I +take to be ---- Range, and another down the river about one and a half +miles bearing about south by west. The river here comes from north for +some distance, and after it has passed this on to the range about one and +a half miles down the river that appears to come right on it it bears off +suddenly to the north of east. No traces of stock or drays seen on the +river, and as another of our worst horses has become done up I will kill +him here and spell the other horses a day; boil as much of his flesh as +we can to take on with us and feast ourselves on the head, feet, and +bones for a day, taking his shoes off as usual in case some of the others +may require them. It perfectly astonishes me not meeting any settlers ere +this. Distance today about twenty-two miles. Splendid weather. Timber +indifferent here and not very abundant. + +Wednesday, July 23. + +Camp 41. Wind cold from north by west; neither dew nor frost. + +Thursday, July 24. + +Camp 41. Wind from same quarter or a little more west; neither dew or +frost but very cold during the night. Crossed the river here to save a +considerable sweep first to south between one and a half to two miles, +then to north of east. Started at 8.20 a.m. This is now the sixth horse +we have been compelled to kill for food, I trust it may be the last; went +across the river yesterday and saw the tracks of a few head of cattle and +from what I could judge not very old; hope to get to a station during the +day. From our camp here a fine peak on left side of river, between main +range and river, bears 48 degrees east of north. At the bend on right +bank of river, below our camp quite two miles distant, the end of a large +hill comes on to the river bearing 195 degrees; a very rugged peak east +of it on same side bears 183 1/2 degrees. Only two packhorses and one +camel now. Bearing east 33 1/2 degrees south over stony granite ridges; +made the river at a southerly bend at eight miles. A deep creek joins at +this bend. Then bearing south-east by south for a peak ahead, at two and +a half miles crossed large oak creek and several smaller ones before +that; at four and a quarter miles at peak changed course to south 2 +degrees west; at five miles made river, crossing in our course several +creeks from eastward. Mount McConnell from this bears a little east of +south-south-east; instead of altering our course to south 2 degrees west +from the peak, a good road avoiding some rugged ranges could be had by +keeping right on course of south 23 1/2 degrees east. The river +immediately below this passes in an easterly direction between two ranges +that come right on to it. The peak on the left bank I have called +Foster's Peak after A.W. Foster, Esquire, of the Murray River, New South +Wales. The bluff on the right bank and a little nearer than the peak I +have called the McLeod after James McLeod, Esquire, of the Darling River, +New South Wales. A fine long leading range some distance from right bank +of river, running north and south, and apparently table-topped, I have +called the Fletcher after G.B. Fletcher, Esquire, Tapio, Darling River, +New South Wales. + +Friday, July 25. + +Camp 42. Started at 8.35 a.m.; first over stony ridge, then good open +forest on a bearing of east by south; at five miles struck a river from +north-north-west which, immediately after crossing, went about east half +north. This river I have called the Foster after A.W. Foster, Esquire, of +the Murray, New South Wales; followed it in its course for two and +three-quarter miles, it then suddenly turns south-east; had to follow it +a quarter of a mile. Large mountain lying right across my course and +running about north by west and south by east; which I have called Mount +Buchanan after Alexander Buchanan, Esquire, of Anlaby, South Australia, +from whom the whole of this party met with the utmost kindness and +consideration. I then crossed over and went on a bearing of east by north +through open country, till at one and three-quarter miles crossed a fine +river from north by west which I have called the Scott after E.B. Scott, +Esquire, of Moorno on the Murray River, New South Wales. Went on this +course about two and a half miles; ascended a peak here and found Mount +McConnell to bear 225 degrees. Another large conspicuous mount from seven +to eight miles off bears 340 degrees; west and south of Mount Buchanan +bears 261 degrees. Changed course here to south one-quarter west, an +immense mountain being ahead in the easterly course, I should like to be +able to go, which I have called Mount Middleton after our right hand man, +one of the party, whose attention to his difficult duties and the good +example he showed to the rest of the party would entitle him to the +esteem of anyone in my situation. One and a quarter miles south +one-quarter west, then east half-south; immediately after the river +changing eastwardly the Foster River joins it; about two and a quarter +miles on last course and camped; the camel about done up and the country +next to impassable; before getting to camp had to ascend a long stony and +steep range, and no sooner up than down again in another place, and which +did not advance us half a mile on our course. We had a hard frost last +night; very difficult country. Mount McConnell bears 238 1/2 degrees. + +Saturday, July 26. + +Camp 43. A dewless and frostless night. Camel very much done up. Started +at 7.53, followed the River Scott. On the left bank is a high precipitous +mountain which I have called the Frederick, and on the right hand another +high mount which I have called the Phillip, after the two brothers +Fletcher of Melbourne. Just as the river takes a south-east course the +Scott joins the Burdekin as it comes from south-south-west, flowing to +north-north-east. In its whole width a perfect mass of slippery rocks and +deep water, and where we struck it no apparent current; although when it +contracts more and runs through more narrow rocks there is a strong and +rapid stream. After getting about one and a quarter miles along its bank +in a north-north-west direction was compelled to halt; perfectly +impracticable and will be a most intricate crossing. Mount McConnell +bears from this crossing-place about 241 1/2 degrees. This is a fearful +country and now that I see it I am not the least surprised at not finding +the Upper Burdekin peopled and stocked. A man has difficulty in getting +along on foot, much more so with quadrupeds; as for vehicles of any kind +quite out of the question anywhere in this quarter. I am at present at a +loss to conjecture how the dray, or drays and stock, found their way up +the river so far, unless they went up west of Mount McConnell or found +some more practicable route lower down the Burdekin, which latter I very +much doubt. The hill just opposite our encampment I have called the Poole +after R.T. Poole, Esquire, of South Australia. We are encamped by a large +gum tree, as the river takes an east by south course for some distance. +The most rugged country a man would ever wish to behold; and to add to +our difficulties in swimming across numbers of huge alligators are here +close to the camp. I ascended the hill just behind our camp with much +difficulty to view the country ahead and about me. It was exceedingly +stony and rocky. From it an extensive view, but much higher hills were in +the distance in various directions. It is about three-quarters of a mile +distant from our camp and bears from it 240 degrees; Mount McConnell +bears 242 1/2 degrees. A conspicuous dark mount, from eight to ten miles +off, bears 34 1/2, round the north end of which the Burdekin passes. The +furthest point of the Burdekin seen along its course, about four miles +off, at which place it suddenly runs to the northward 63 1/2 degrees. A +considerable sweep of the river between this and Mount McConnell bears +216 1/2 degrees from five to six miles distant. A high peak, and close by +it a high mountain in the same line of ranges about seven to eight miles +off across the river, bear respectively 93 1/2 and 104 1/2 degrees. +Beyond the north end (distant) of the above range is to be seen another +dark mountain bearing 76 1/2 degrees. Killed another unfortunate horse +(poor old Joseph Buggins). The hill on which I now stand I have called +Mount Bertram after Alexander Bertram, Esquire, of Sandhurst, Victoria. +The mount that bears 104 1/2 degrees from this, beyond the river, I have +called Mount Haverfield after ---- Haverfield, Esquire, of Melbourne. The +peak that bears 93 1/2 degrees I have called the Grierson after R. +Grierson, Esquire, of Great Bourke Street West, Melbourne. The +conspicuous mountain that bears 34 1/2 degrees I have called Mount +Roberts after G. Roberts, Esquire, of the Murray, New South Wales. + +Sunday, July 27. + +No passage over the ridge or mountains practicable. A raft constructed of +such materials as we can get here floated but indifferently with our +canteens, one leaky air pillow, and our boiling vessels inverted, some of +which were not air-tight, is ready for crossing tomorrow, the things and +the men that swim but indifferently; many of the alligators close by in +the same reach. + +Monday, July 28. + +After much swimming by Middleton and Hodgkinson we managed to cross all +the things and the camel. The horses we could not get to cross so left +them with the men to look after them till tomorrow when we shall try them +again and hope for better success; it is a most difficult, intricate, and +dangerous place; if they all cross in safety it is more than I expect. + +Tuesday, July 29. + +Camp 45. By much perseverance and difficulty got the horses and remainder +of the men safe across; by 4 p.m. packed up and started down the river +east by south, very rough, walking nearly all the way for about one mile, +at which place we take to the ranges; in the morning, on our way at about +three-quarters of a mile, two considerable running creeks join the river; +another running creek joins the river at camp. I shall take the camel on +and our only packhorse-load of stuff shall leave behind here till it can +be sent for; it consists chiefly of seeds which I should be sorry to +lose. I had intended to leave the camel here also, but after thought it +best to try and take him on over the ranges one stage and kill him, and +by doing so save a horse. + +Wednesday, July 30. + +Camp 46. Buried the things safely and securely from wet, and should not +the natives find them and dig them up they will be perfectly secure till +we can send back for them. Obliged to shoe one of the horses which lost +his shoe in crossing yesterday on the rocks. Started at 10.15 and at once +tackled the range, up a steep hill, down again in a north-east by north +direction, crossed a deep ravine, and ascended the first of a series of +steep stony hills in a north-east by east course; from the summit Mount +McConnell bears 246 degrees. The conspicuous mount round the north side +of which the Burdekin passes bears 23 degrees; followed the river in that +direction for about five and a half miles to a creek, the north and east +drainage of the large range under the western side of which we were +latterly travelling, and round the termination of them we camped at a +running creek of excellent water coming from east of south-east. We are +here very reluctantly obliged to kill our good and faithful companion the +last remaining camel (Siva) that was with us in all our reconnoiterings +and other journeys; he was indeed a splendid animal but now quite unfit +to travel beyond this. I hope to get sufficient of his flesh to carry us +into a station, or if the country is at all passable to Port Denison. We +are encamped under some splendid shady large-leafed tree in the bed of +the creek, leaves about ten inches broad and twelve to fifteen inches +long; some of the men found that the leaves dry were a good substitute +for tobacco and were soon puffing a cloud. + +Thursday, July 31. + +Spelled here today to boil down camel. Mild night, day warm, many recent +traces of natives here under the shade of these trees, they are firing +the grass in various directions around us but we never see anything of +them. The remnants of a broken gourd we found here, it has been used as a +vessel for carrying water; it was the size of a large coconut with a neck +about six inches long, through one side of which they had drilled a hole +for a cord for slinging on their arms. + +Friday, August 1. + +In Camp. Boiling down the camel's meat. Poole unwell with a slight attack +of fever and ague. We made a fine breakfast this morning off the camel +tripe and feet. I went out onto the top of a very high hill to have a +look at the country in front of us. We shall start tomorrow; I hope +shortly to find a station, if not we shall have to kill another horse, +and shall have to walk and ride alternately; I hope we shall not come to +that as the whole party will be obliged to be kept back on account of +having to keep pace with the pedestrian. + +Saturday, August 2. + +Started at 8.53 a.m., course east by north, each man taking with him a +certain weight of the boiled camel before him, as we are now reduced to +eleven horses, one alone with pack-bags. After travelling for some nine +or ten miles we came upon the tracks of bullocks, quite fresh, and +shortly after were gratified by the sight of the bullocks themselves with +two white men tailing them. We soon now were pitching into roast beef and +damper and, don't let me forget, potatoes and mustard. The station +belongs to Messrs. Harvey and Somers and is situated on the River Bowen, +a stream that flows northward into the Burdekin. Mr. Somers was not in on +our arrival; he soon however came in, and we were most hospitably +received by him. The flour during the night and for some few days after +had the most astonishing effect on all of us from the fact that our +digestive organs could not digest the bread, being so accustomed to the +easily digested meat; we were most of us in great pain and our legs and +feet swelled very much. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of McKinlay's Journal of Exploration in +the Interior of Australia, by John McKinlay + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MCKINLAY'S JOURNAL *** + +***** This file should be named 13248.txt or 13248.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/2/4/13248/ + +This eBook was produced by Sue Asscher + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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