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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:41:40 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:41:40 -0700 |
| commit | 52dbf2b0a198eb15b3d967b0948c7d6b73e8047a (patch) | |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/13232-0.txt b/13232-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6601c49 --- /dev/null +++ b/13232-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3712 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13232 *** + +[Illustration: NEVADA FALLS (height 617 feet). Yosemite Valley.] + + + + +STORIES OF CALIFORNIA + + +BY + +ELLA M. SEXTON + + +NEW YORK + +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY +LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., LTD. +1903 + + +_All rights reserved_ + + + + +1902, + +BY THE MACMILLAN COMPANY. + + +Set up, electrotyped, and published September, 1902. Reprinted +October, 1903. + + + +Normond Press J.S. Cushing & Co.--Berwick & Smith Co. Norwood, Mass., +U.S.A. + + + + +FOREWORD + + +To recount in simple, accurate narratives the early conditions and +subsequent development of California is the purpose of this book. In +attempting to picture the romantic events embodied in the wonderful +history of the state, and to make each sketch clear and concise as +well as interesting, the author has avoided many dry details and +dates. + +Several of the stories endeavor to explain the remarkable physical +characteristics of California. The work to this end was rendered +lighter by the hope that the reader might find the book merely an +introduction to that larger knowledge of personal observation and +inquiry. + +But the writer's chief aim has been to interest the children of +California in the beautiful land of their birth, to unfold to them the +life and occurrences of bygone days, and to lead them to note and to +enjoy their fortunate surroundings. + +Among the many authorities consulted for the work, special +acknowledgment is due to the historians, Theodore H. Hittell and H.H. +Bancroft. + + + + +CONTENTS + + +CALIFORNIA'S NAME AND EARLY HISTORY + +THE STORY OF THE MISSIONS AND OF FATHER SERRA + +BEFORE THE GRINGOS CAME + +THE AMERICANS AND THE BEAR-FLAG REPUBLIC + +THE DAYS OF GOLD AND THE ARGONAUTS OF '49 + +MINING STORIES + +HOW POLLY ELLIOTT CAME ACROSS THE PLAINS + +THE BUILDING OF THE OVERLAND RAILROAD + +STORY OF THE WHEAT FIELDS + +ORCHARD, FARM, AND VINEYARD + +THE STORY OF THE NAVEL ORANGE + +THE LEMON + +FLOWERS AND PLANTS + +THE BIG TREES AND LUMBERING + +OUR BIRDS + +OUR WILD ANIMALS + +IN SALT WATER AND FRESH + +ABOUT CALIFORNIA'S INDIANS + +THE STORY OF SAN FRANCISCO + +MEN CALIFORNIA REMEMBERS + +OUR GLORIOUS CLIMATE + +SOME WONDERFUL SIGHTS + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + +NEVADA FALLS (height 617 feet), YOSEMITE VALLEY + +FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA + +MISSION CHURCH, MONTEREY + +OLD SAN DIEGO MISSION. Founded 1769 + +MISSION SAN LUIS REY. Founded 1798 + +MISSION DOLORES. Established 1776 + +SANTA BARBARA MISSION. Founded 1786 + +UPPER SACRAMENTO RIVER + +PLACER GOLD MINING. Washing with Cradle + +AN ORANGE TREE WITH FRUIT AND BLOSSOMS + +PALMS OVER 100 YEARS OLD AT LOS ANGELES + +HOP VINES + +AMONG THE HOP VINES + +WHITE SANTA BARBARA POPPY + +WILD CALIFORNIA POPPY + +IN A MISSION GARDEN + +A CHRISTMAS GARDEN + +"WAWONA" (28 feet in diameter) + +THE GRIZZLY GIANT (33 feet in diameter) + +BIG TREES AT FELTON, SANTA CRUZ CO. + +YOUNG TOWHEE + +BABY YELLOW WARBLERS. From photographs by Elizabeth Grinnell + +CALIFORNIA RED DEER. From a photograph by George V. Robinson + +LEAPING TUNA + +BLACK SEA BASS + +HUMPBACK WHALE (57 feet long) + +TROUT FROM LAKE TAHOE + +INDIAN WOMAN WITH PAPPOOSE + +INDIAN WOMAN WITH BASKETS + +INDIAN BASKETS + +SEAL ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO + +THE NEW CLIFF HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO + +ENTRANCE TO JAPANESE TEA GARDEN, SAN FRANCISCO + +FALLEN LEAF LAKE + +MOUNT SHASTA FROM STRAWBERRY VALLEY + +"EL CAPITAN" (3300 feet in height) + +YOSEMITE FALLS + +NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ + +[Compiler's note 1: Four illustrations were omitted from the published +book, but were listed in the Illustrations pages.] + + + + +STORIES OF CALIFORNIA + + + + +STORIES OF CALIFORNIA + +CALIFORNIA'S NAME AND EARLY HISTORY + + +A Spanish story written four hundred years ago speaks of California as +an island rich in pearls and gold. Only black women lived there, the +story says, and they had golden spears, and collars and harness of +gold for the wild beasts which they had tamed to ride upon. This +island was said to be at a ten days' journey from Mexico, and was +supposed to lie near Asia and the East Indies. + +Among those who believed such fairy tales about this wonderful island +of California was Cortes, a Spanish soldier and traveller. He had +conquered Mexico in 1521 and had made Montezuma, the Mexican emperor, +give him a fortune in gold and precious stones. Then Cortes wished +to find another rich country to capture, and California, he thought, +would be the very place. He wrote home to Spain promising to bring +back gold from the island, and also silks, spices, and diamonds from +Asia. For he was sure that the two countries were near together, and +that both might be found in the Pacific Ocean, or South Sea, as he +called it, by sailing northwest. + +So for years Cortes built ships in New Spain (or Mexico), and sent out +men to hunt for this golden island. They found the Gulf of California, +and at last Cortes himself sailed up and down its waters. He explored +the land on both sides, and saw only poor, naked Indians who had a few +pearls but no gold. Cortes never found the golden island. We should +remember, however, that his ships first sailed on the North Pacific +and explored Lower California, and that he first used the name +California for the peninsula. + +It was left for a Portuguese ship-captain called Cabrillo to find the +port of San Diego in 1542. He was the first white man to land upon +the shores of California, as we know it. Afterwards he sailed north to +Monterey. Many Indians living along the coast came out to his ship +in canoes with fish and game for the white men. Then Cabrillo sailed +north past Monterey Bay, and almost in sight of the Golden Gate. But +the weather was rough and stormy, and without knowing of the fine +harbor so near him, he turned his ship round and sailed south again. +He reached the Santa Barbara Islands, intending to spend the winter +there, but he died soon after his arrival. The people of San Diego +now honor Cabrillo with a festival every year. He was the sea-king who +found their bay and first set foot on California ground. + +About this time Magellan had discovered the Philippine Islands, and +Spain began to send ships from Mexico to those islands to buy silks, +spices, and other rich treasures. The Spanish galleons, or vessels, +loaded with their costly freight, used to come home by crossing +the Pacific to Cape Mendocino, and then sailing down the coast of +California to Mexico. Before long the English, who hated Spain and +were at war with her, sent out brave sea-captains to capture the +Spanish galleons and their cargoes. Sir Francis Drake, one of the +boldest Englishmen, knew this South Sea very well, and on a ship +called the _Golden Hind_ (which meant the Golden Deer), he came to the +New World and captured every Spanish vessel he sighted. He loaded +his ship with their treasures, gold and silver bars, chests of +silver money, velvets and silks, and wished to take his cargo back to +England. He tried to find a northern, or shorter way home, and at last +got so far north that his sailors suffered from cold, and his ship was +nearly lost. Obliged to sail south, he found a sheltered harbor near +Point Reyes, and landed there in 1579. Drake claimed the new country +for the English Queen, Elizabeth, and named it New Albion. A great +many friendly Indians in the neighborhood brought presents of feather +and bead work to the commander and his men. These Indians killed +small game and deer with bows and arrows, and had coats or mantles +of squirrel skins. + +[Illustration: FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA.] + +Drake and his sailors repaired and refitted their vessel during the +month they stayed at Drake's Bay. They made several trips inland also +and saw the pine and redwood forests with many deer feeding on the +hills; but they did not discover San Francisco Bay. On leaving New +Albion, Drake sailed the _Golden Hind_ across the Pacific to the East +Indies and the Indian Ocean, and round the Cape of Good Hope home to +England, with all the treasure he had taken. The queen received him +with great honors and his ship was kept a hundred years in memory of +the brave admiral, who had commanded it on this voyage. + +During the next century several English commanders of vessels sailed +the South Sea while hunting Spanish galleons to capture, and these +ships often touched at Lower California for fresh water. Some of +the captains explored the coast and traded with the Indians, but no +settlements were made. + +Then the Spanish tried to find and settle the country they had heard +so many reports of, thinking to provide stations where their trading +ships might anchor for supplies and protection. Viscaino, on his +second voyage for this purpose, landed at San Diego in 1602. Sailing +on to the island he named Santa Catalina, Viscaino found there a tribe +of fine-looking Indians who had large houses and canoes. They were +good hunters and fishermen and clothed themselves in sealskins. +Viscaino went on to Monterey and finally as far north as Oregon, but +owing to severe storms, and to sickness among his sailors, he was +obliged to return to Mexico. + +For a long time after this failure to settle upon the coast, the +Spanish came to Lower California for the pearl-fisheries. Along the +Gulf of California were many oyster-beds where the Indians secured +the shells by diving for them. Large and valuable pearls were found +in many of the oysters, and the Spanish collected them in great +quantities from the Indians who did not know their real value. + +In this peninsula of Lower California fifteen Missions, or +settlements, each having a church, were founded by Padres of the +Jesuits. But later the Jesuits were ordered out of the country, and +their Missions turned over to the Franciscan order of Mexico. + +With the coming of the Franciscans a new period of California's +history began. Spain wished to settle Alta California, or that region +north of the peninsula, and Father Serra, the head and leader of these +Franciscans, was chosen to begin this work. + +How he did this, and how he and his followers founded the California +Missions you will read in the story of that time. + + + + +THE STORY OF THE MISSIONS AND OF FATHER SERRA + + +The old Missions of California are landmarks that remind us of Father +Serra and his band of faithful workers. There were twenty-one of their +beautiful churches, and though some are ruined and neglected, others +like the Mission Dolores of San Francisco and the Santa Barbara and +Monterey buildings are still in excellent condition. From San Diego to +San Francisco these Missions were located, about thirty miles apart, +and so well were the sites chosen that the finest cities of the state +have grown round the old churches. + +Father Junipero Serra was the president and leader of the Franciscan +missionaries and the founder of the Missions. He had been brought up +in Spain, and had dreamed from his boyhood of going to the New +World, as the Spanish called America, to tell the savages how to be +Christians. He began his work as a missionary in Mexico and there +labored faithfully among the Indians for nearly twenty years. But as +his greatest wish was to preach to those in unknown places he was glad +to be chosen to explore Alta or Upper California. + +Marching by land from Loreto, a Mission of Lower California, Father +Serra, with Governor Portola and his soldiers, reached San Diego in +1769. Here he planted the first Mission on California ground. The +church was a rude arbor of boughs, and the bells were hung in an oak +tree. Father Serra rang the bells himself, and called loudly to the +wondering Indians to come to the Holy Church and hear about Christ. +But the natives were suspicious and not ready to listen to the good +man's teachings, and several times they attacked the newcomers. +Finally, after six years, they burnt the church and killed one of the +missionaries. But later on there was peace, and the priests, or Padres +as they were called, taught the Indians to raise corn and wheat, and +to plant olive orchards and fig trees, and grapes for wine. They built +a new church and round it the huts, or cabins, of the Indians, the +storehouses, and the Padre's dwelling. In the early morning the bells +called every member of the Mission family to a church service. After a +breakfast of corn and beans they spent the morning in outdoor work or +in building. At noon either mutton or beef was served with corn and +beans, and at two o'clock work began again, to last till evening +service. A supper of corn-meal mush was the Indians' favorite +meal. They had many holidays, when their amusements were dancing, +bull-fighting, or cock-fighting. + +San Diego, called the Mother Mission, because it is the oldest church, +is now also most in ruins. But its friends hope to put new foundations +under the old walls, and to recap firm ones with cement, and preserve +this monument of early California history. + +After Father Serra had started the San Diego settlement he set sail +for Monterey. Landing at Monterey Bay, he built an altar under a large +oak tree, hung the Mission bells upon the boughs, and held the usual +services. The Spanish soldiers fired off their guns in honor of the +day and put up a great cross. The Indians had never heard the sound of +guns and were so frightened that they ran away to the mountains. The +second Mission was built on the Carmel River, a little distance from +the site of the first altar. This was called San Carlos of Monterey, +and the settlement was the capital of Alta California for many years. +It was also the Mission that Father Serra loved the best, and after +every trip to other and newer settlements he returned to San Carlos as +his home. This Monterey Mission is well preserved, and books, carved +church furniture, and embroidered robes used in the old services are +still shown. + +At both San Diego and Monterey a presidio, or fort, was built for the +soldiers. These forts had one or two cannon brought from Spain, and +had around them high walls, or stockades, to protect, if it should be +necessary, the Mission people from the Indians. The cannon were fired +on holidays, or to frighten troublesome Indians. + +All the Mission buildings were of brown clay made into large bricks +about a foot and a half long and broad, and three or four inches +thick. These bricks, dried in the sun, were called adobes, and were +plastered together and made smooth by a mortar of the same clay. +Then the walls were coated outside and inside with a lime stucco and +whitewashed. The roof timbers were covered with hollow red tiles, each +like the half of a sewer pipe, and these were laid to overlap each +other so that they kept the rain out. The floors were of earth beaten +hard, and the windows had bars or latticework, but no glass. The large +church was snowy white within and without and had pictures brought +from Spain and much carved furniture, such as chairs, benches, and +the pulpit made by the Indians. One or two round-topped towers and +five or six belfries, each holding a large bell, were on the church roof, +and a great iron cross at the very top. + +[Illustration: MISSION CHURCH, MONTEREY.] + +[Illustration: OLD SAN DIEGO MISSION. Founded 1769.] + +Night and morning the Mission bells rang to call the Indians to mass +or service, and chimes or tunes were rung on holidays or for weddings. +These Mission bells were brought from Spain, and it was thought a +blessing rested on the ship which carried them, and that shipwreck +could not come to such a vessel. We read of one captain joyfully +receiving the Mission bells to take to San Diego. When nearing the +coast his vessel struck a rock, yet passed on in safety because, as +he said, no harm could happen with the bells on board. On his journeys +every missionary carried a bell with him for the new church he was to +build. Father Serra's first act on reaching a stopping-place was to +hang the bell in a tree and ring it to gather the Indians and people +for service. + +San Antonio, a very successful Mission, was the third one established, +and it was in a beautiful little valley of the Santa Lucia Mountains. +Every kind of fruit grew in its orchards, and the Indians there were +very happy and contented, and in large workshops made cloth, saddles, +and other things. San Gabriel, not far from Los Angeles and sometimes +called the finest church of all, was the next to be built. This was +the richest of the Missions and had great stores of wool, wheat, and +fruit, which the hard-working Indians earned and gave to the church. +The Indians, indeed, were almost slaves, and worked all their +lives for the Padres without rest or pay. At San Gabriel the first +California flour-mill worked by a stream of water turning the wheel, +was put up. Some of the old palms and olive trees are still growing +there. + +San Juan Capistrano, founded in 1776, was one of the best-known +Missions, for it had a seaport of its own at San Juan. Vessels came to +its port for the hides and tallow of thousands of cattle herded round +the Mission. The first fine church of this Mission was destroyed by +an earthquake, and many people were killed by its falling roof. It was +rebuilt, however, and still shows its fine front, and long corridors +or porches round a hollow square where a garden and fountain used to +be. + +Old records tell us that Father Serra felt that there should be a +church named in honor of Francis, who was the founder and patron saint +of the Franciscan brotherhood of monks to which these missionaries +belonged. When Father Serra spoke of this to Galvez, that priest +replied, "If our good Saint Francis wants a Mission, let him show us +that fine harbor up above Monterey and we will build him one there." +Several explorers had failed to find this port about which Indians had +spoken to the Spanish. At last Ortega discovered it, and Father Palou, +in 1776, consecrated the Mission of San Francisco. Near the spot was +a small lake called the "Laguna de los Dolores," and from this the +church was at last known as the Mission Dolores. But the great city +bears the Spanish name of Saint Francis, or San Francisco. A fort +was erected where the present Presidio stands, and later a battery +of cannon was placed at Black Point. It is told that the Indians were +very quarrelsome here and fought so among themselves that the Padres +could get no church built for a year. In that part of San Francisco +called the Mission, the old building with its odd roof and three of +the ancient bells is a very interesting place to visit. There are +pictures, and other relics of the past to see, and in the graveyard +many of San Francisco's early settlers were buried. This was the sixth +Mission of Alta California. + +The Santa Barbara Mission, where Franciscan fathers still live, has +a fine church with double towers and a long row of two-story adobe +buildings enclosing a hollow square where a beautiful garden is kept. +One of the brotherhood, wearing a long brown robe just as Father Serra +did, takes visitors into the church, and also shows them the garden +and a large carved stone fountain. This church is built of sandstone +with two large towers and a chime of six bells, and was finished in +1820. + +The Santa Ynez Mission was much damaged by the heavy earthquake that +in 1812 ruined other Missions. Here the Indians raised large crops +of wheat and herded many cattle. Over a thousand Indians, it is said, +attacked this church in 1822, but the priest in charge frightened them +away by firing guns. This warlike conduct so displeased the Padres, +who wished the natives ruled by kindness, that the poor priest was +sent away from the Mission. + +One of the early Missions was San Luis Obispo, where services are +still held. It was specially noted for a fine blue cloth woven by +the Indians from the wool of the Mission flocks of sheep. The Indians +there also wove blankets, and cloth from cotton raised upon their own +lands. + +San Juan Bautista, or St. John the Baptist, north of Monterey, had a +splendid chime of nine bells said to have been brought from Peru and +to have very rich, mellow tones. San Miguel had a bell hung up on a +platform in front of the church, and now at Santa Ysabel, sixty miles +from San Diego, where the Mission itself is only a heap of adobe +ruins, two bells hang on a rude framework of logs. The Indian +bell-ringer rings them by a rope fastened to each clapper. The bells +were cast in Spain and much silver jewellery and household plate were +melted with the bell-metal. Near them the Diegueño Indians worship in +a rude arbor of green boughs with their priest, Father Antonio, who +has worked for thirty years among the tribe. They live on a rancheria +near by and are making adobe bricks, hoping soon to build a church +like the old Mission long since crumbled away. + +The last of the Missions was built in 1823 at Sonoma, and proved very +active in church work, some fifteen hundred Indians having been there +baptized. + +Father Junipero Serra died at more than seventy years of age, at San +Carlos. During all his life in America he endured great hardships +and suffering to bring the gospel to the heathen as he had dreamed of +doing in his boyish days. A monument to his memory has been erected +at Monterey by Mrs. Stanford, but the Missions he founded are his best +and most lasting remembrances. + + + + +BEFORE THE GRINGOS CAME + + +This is the story Señora Sanchez told us children as we sat on the +sunny, rose-covered porch of her old adobe house at Monterey one +summer afternoon. And as she talked of those early times she worked +at her fine linen "drawn-work" with bright, dark eyes that needed no +glasses for all her eighty years and snow-white hair. + +"When I was a girl, California was a Mexican republic," said the +Señora, "and Los Gringos, as we called the Americans, came in ships +from Boston. They brought us our shoes and dresses, our blankets and +groceries; all kinds of goods, indeed, to trade for hides and tallow, +which was all our people had to sell in those days. For no one raised +anything but cattle then, and all summer long the cows cropped the +rich clover and wild oats till they were fat and ready to kill. In +the fall the Indians and vaqueros, or cowboys as you children call +them, drove great herds of cattle to the Missions near the ocean where +the Gringos came with their ship-loads of fine things and waited for +trading-days. + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN LUIS REY. Founded 1798.] + +[Illustration: MISSION DOLORES. Established 1776.] + +"For weeks every one worked hard, killing the cattle, stripping off +their skins and hanging the green or fresh hides over poles to dry in +the sun. When dried hard and stiff as a board the skins were folded +hair-side in, and were then worth about two dollars apiece. The +beef-suet, or fat, from these cattle was put into large iron kettles +and melted. While still hot it was dipped out with wooden dippers +into rawhide bags, each made from an animal's skin. When cold and hard +these bags of tallow were sewed up with leather strings, and thus they +were taken to Boston. + +"So much beef was on hand at such times that not even the hungry +Indians could eat it all while it was fresh. The nicest pieces were +cut into long strips, dipped into a boiling salt brine full of hot +red peppers and hung up to dry where the sunshine soon turned the meat +into carne seca, or dried beef. We put it away in sacks, and very good +it was all the year for stews, and to eat with the frijoles, or red +beans, and tortillas, which were corn-cakes. + +"All we bought from the Gringos was paid for with hides and tallow, +so it was well, you see, children, that my father owned ten thousand +cattle; for counting relatives and Indian servants, we always had more +than thirty people on our ranch to feed and clothe. We raised grain +and corn and beans enough for the family, but had to buy sugar, +coffee, and such things. + +"Did we have many horses, you say? Yes, droves of them, and we almost +lived on horseback, for no one walked if he could help it, and there +were almost no carriages or roads. Neither were there any barns or +stables, for the mustangs, or tough little ponies, fed on the wild +grass and took care of themselves. Every morning a horse was caught, +saddled and bridled, and tied by the door ready to use. All the ladies +rode, too, and I often used to ride twenty miles to a dance with Juan, +my young husband, and back again in a day or so. + +"Sometimes we went to the rodeo, where once a year the great herds of +cattle were driven into corrals, and each ranchero or farmer picked +out his own stock. Then those young calves or yearlings not already +marked were branded with their owner's stamp by a red-hot iron that +burnt the mark into the skin. After that the bellowing, frightened +animals were turned out to roam the grassy plains for another year. We +had plenty of feasting and merry-making at these rodeos, and a whole +ox was roasted every day for the hungry crowds, so no one went fasting +to bed. + +"Those were gay times, my children," and Señora Sanchez sighed and +sewed quietly for a while till Harry asked her if they kept Christmas +before the Gringos came. + +"Yes, indeed," she said, laughing, "we kept Christmas for a week, +and all our friends and relatives were welcome, so that our big +ranch-house was full of company. Indeed, some of the visitors slept in +hammocks or rolled up in blankets on the verandas. Our house was built +round the four sides of a square garden, with wide porches, where we +sat on pleasant days. There was a fountain in this garden, and orange +trees, which at Christmas-time hung full of golden fruit and sweet +white flowers. On 'the holy night,' as we called Christmas Eve, we +hung lanterns in the porches, and everybody crowded there or in the +garden for their gifts. + +"No, we had no Santa Claus nor Christmas tree, but my father gave +presents to all, even to the Indian servants and their children. A fan +or a string of pearls, perhaps, for my sisters, the young señoritas; a +fine saddle or a velvet jacket for my brother; and red blankets or gay +handkerchiefs for the Indians, with sacks of beans or sweet potatoes +to eat with their Christmas feast of roast ox or a fat sheep. +Afterwards we danced till morning came, or sang to the sweet tinkle +of the guitars. Well do I remember, children, when the good Padres, +or priests, at the Mission forbade us to waltz, that new dance the +Gringos had taught us to like. I recall, also, that the governor only +laughed and said that the young folks could waltz if they wished. +So at my wedding, soon after, when we danced from Tuesday noon till +Thursday morning, you may be sure we had many a waltz. + +"Pretty dresses, Edith? Yes, gay, bright silk or satin ones, with many +ruffles on the skirts and wide collars and sleeves of lace, or yellow +satin slippers and always a high comb of silver or tortoise-shell and +a spangled fan. And we had long gold and coral earrings and strings of +pearls from the Gulf, and, see!" as she pulled aside her neck-scarf, +"here is the necklace of gold beads that was my wedding gift. We +had no hats or bonnets, but wore black lace shawls, or mantillas, to +church, or twisted long silk scarfs over our heads to go riding. + +"You will think the gentlemen were fine dandies in those Mexican days, +when I tell you that they often wore crimson velvet knee trousers +trimmed with gold lace, embroidered white shirts, bright green cloth +or velvet jackets with rows and rows of silver buttons, and red sashes +with long, streaming ends. Their wide-brimmed sombrero hats were +trimmed with silver or gold braid and tassels. They dressed up their +horses with beautiful saddles and bridles of carved leather worked +all over with gold or silver thread and gay with silver rosettes or +buttons. Each gentleman wore a large Spanish cloak of rich velvet or +embroidered cloth, and if it rained, he threw over his fine clothes +a serape, or square woollen blanket with a slit cut in the middle for +the head. + +"Los Gringos used to laugh at the Mexican and his cloak, and not long +after they came the 'Greasers,' as the Americans called the young men +born here in California, began to wear the ugly clothes the Gringos +brought out from Boston. And so the times changed, children, and our +people learned to do everything as the Americans did it and to work +hard and save money instead of dancing and idling away the time. + +"And the bull-fights, Harry? Oh, yes, there was a bull-fight every +Sunday afternoon, and everybody went, as you do to the football games. +The ladies clapped their hands if the sport was good, or if the bull +was killed by the brave swordsman. And if the men got hurt or the +horses,--well, we only thought that was part of the game, you see. El +toro, as we called the bull, always tried to save himself; and if he +was savage and cruel, that was his nature, to try to kill his enemies. +The gay dresses and the music was what I cared for, and then all my +friends were there, also. + +[Illustration: SANTA BARBARA MISSION. Founded 1786.] + +"But you must be tired of my old stories; is it not so, my children? +No, you want to hear about the dances, you say? Well, every party was +a dance; a fandango or ball, if it was given in a hall where everybody +could come, but at houses where just the people came who were invited +we called it only a dance. Every old grandfather or little girl, even, +danced all night long, and the rooms were hung with flags and wreaths. +All the Spanish dances were pretty, and the ladies with their gay +dresses and mantillas, and the gentlemen in velvet suits trimmed +with gold, made a fine picture. At the cascarone, or egg-shell +dance, baskets of egg-shells filled with cologne or finely cut tinsel +or colored papers were brought into the room, and the game was to +crush these shells over the dancers' heads. If your hair got wet with +cologne or full of gilt paper, everybody laughed, and you laughed too, +for that was the game, you know. Ah, there was plenty of merry-making +and feasting in those days, children," and Señora Sanchez sighed again +and went on with her "drawn-work," while the bell in the old Mission +church near by rang five o'clock, and we children ran home talking of +those old times before the Gringos came to California. + + + + +THE AMERICANS AND THE BEAR-FLAG REPUBLIC + + +While Spain owned Mexico and the two Californias, the Missions were at +their best and grew rich in stores of grain and in cattle and horses. +Almost all the people were Spanish or Indians, and they lived at the +Missions or in ranches near by. But when Mexico in 1822 refused to be +ruled by Spain, Alta or Upper California became a Mexican territory, +and, later on, a republic with governors sent from Mexico. The Mission +Padres did not like the change, and thought that Spain should still +own the New World. Before long it was ordered that the Missions should +be turned into pueblos, or towns, and that the Padres were no longer +to make slaves of the Indians. The missionaries were to stay as +priests, and to teach the Indians in schools, but the Mission lands +were to be divided so that each Indian family might have a small farm +to cultivate. From that time the Missions began to decay and were +finally given up to ruin. + +Then Americans began to come in, the first party of hunters and +trappers travelling from Salt Lake City to the San Gabriel Mission. +All kept talking of the rich country where farming was so easy, and +they wished to have land. But the Mexicans and the native Californians +did not believe in allowing the Americans, as they called all the +people from the Eastern states, to take up their farming lands and +hunt and trap the wild animals. So there was much quarrelling. But the +Americans still poured in, got land grants, and built houses. + +In 1836, though Alta California declared itself a free state, and no +longer looked to Mexico for support, Mexican rule still continued. The +United States had wanted California for a long time, and had tried to +buy it from Mexico. The fine bay and harbor of San Francisco, known +to be the best along the coast, was especially needed by the United +States as a place to shelter or repair ships on their way to the +Oregon settlements. England also wanted this bay, but the Californians +tried to keep every one out of their country. + +Among the Americans who came overland and across the Rocky Mountains +about this time was John C. Fremont, a surveyor and engineer, who was +called the "Pathfinder." On his third trip to the Pacific Coast in '46 +he wished to spend the winter near Monterey, with his sixty hunters +and mountaineers. Castro, the Mexican general, ordered him to leave +the country at once, but Fremont answered by raising the American flag +over his camp. As Castro had more men, Fremont did not think it wise +to fight, but marched away, intending to go north to Oregon. He turned +back in the Klamath country on account of snow and Indians, as he +said, and camped where the Feather River joins the Sacramento. It +is almost certain that Fremont wished to provoke Castro and the +Californians into war, and so to capture the country for the United +States. + +A party of Fremont's men rode down to Sonoma, where there was a +Mission, and also a presidio with a few cannon in charge of General +Vallejo. These men captured the place and sent Vallejo and three +other prisoners back to Fremont's camp. Then the independent Americans +concluded to have a new republic of their own, and a flag also. So +they made the famous "Bear-flag" of white cloth, with a strip of red +flannel sewed on the lower edge, and on the white they painted in +red a large star and a grizzly bear, and also the words "California +Republic." They then raised the flag over the Bear-flag Republic. Many +Americans joined their party, but when the American flag went up at +Monterey, the stars and stripes replaced the bear-flag. + +At this time the United States and Mexico were at war on account +of Texas, and Commodore Sloat was in charge of the warships on the +Pacific Coast. The commodore had been told to take Alta California, +if possible; so, sailing to Monterey, he raised the stars and stripes +there in July, 1846, and ended Mexican power forever. The American +flag flew at the San Francisco Presidio two days later, and also at +Sonoma, Sutter's Fort, or wherever there were Americans. The flag was +greeted with cheers and delight. Then Commodore Sloat turned the naval +force over to Stockton and returned home, leaving all quiet north of +Santa Barbara. + +Commodore Stockton sent Fremont and his men to San Diego and, taking +four hundred soldiers, went himself to Los Angeles, where the native +Californians and Mexicans were determined to fight against the rule of +the United States. General Castro and his men and Governor Pico, +the last of the Mexican governors, were driven out of the country. +Stockton then declared that Upper and Lower California were to be +known as the "Territory of California." + +In less than a month, however, the Californians in the south gathered +their forces again and took Los Angeles. General Kearny was sent out +with what was called the "army of the west," to assist Fremont and +Stockton in settling the trouble. Peace was declared after several +battles, and Kearny acted as governor of the new territory, displacing +Fremont. At last, by the treaty which closed the Mexican war in 1848 +Alta California became the property of the United States, and Lower +California was left to Mexico. + +From that time there was peace and quiet, and before long the +discovery of gold brought the new territory into great importance. The +rush to the gold mines brought thousands of men, and as no government +had been provided for the territory, Governor Riley in '49 called a +convention to form a plan of government. + +This Constitutional Convention of delegates from each of California's +towns met in Monterey. The constitution there drawn up lasted for +thirty years, and under it our great state was built up. It declared +that no slavery should ever be allowed here, and settled the present +eastern boundary line. + +The first Thanksgiving Day for the territory was set by Governor +Riley, in '49. The first governor elected by California voters was +Burnett, and in the first legislature Fremont and Gwin were chosen +as senators. Congress at last admitted California into the Union by +passing the California bill. On September 9, 1850, President Fillmore +signed the bill. + +Every year on the 9th of September, or "Admission Day," we therefore +keep our state's birthday. At San Jose, in '99, a Jubilee Day was +held in remembrance of the beginning of state government fifty years +before. + +[Illustration: UPPER SACRAMENTO RIVER.] + +[Illustration: PLACER GOLD MINING. (Washing with Cradle.)] + + + + +THE DAYS OF GOLD AND THE ARGONAUTS OF 1849 + + +California has well earned her name of "Golden State," for from her +rich mines gold to the value of thirteen hundred millions has been +taken. Yet every year she adds seventeen millions more to the world's +stock of gold. No country has produced more of this precious yellow +metal that men work and fight and die for. The "gold belt" of the +state still holds great wealth for miners to find in years to come. + +Long, long ago people knew that gold was here, for in 1510 a Spanish +novel speaks of "that island of California where a great abundance +of gold and precious stones is found." In 1841 the Indians near San +Fernando Mission washed out gold from the river-sands, and other mines +were found not far from Los Angeles. + +But James W. Marshall was the man who started the great excitement +of '48 and '49 by finding small pieces of gold at a place now called +Coloma, on the American River. Marshall, who was born in New Jersey, +came to this state in 1847, and being a builder wished to put up +houses, sawmills, and flour-mills. Finding that lumber was very +dear, he decided to build a sawmill to exit up the great trees on the +river-bank. He had no money, but John A. Sutter, knowing a mill was +needed there, gave Marshall enough to start with. + +So the mill was built, and when it was ready to run Marshall found +that the mill-race, or ditch for carrying the water to his mill-wheel, +was not deep enough. He turned a strong current of water into it, +and this ran all night. Then it was shut off, and next day the ditch +showed where the stream had washed it deeper and had left a heap +of sand and gravel at the end of it. Here Marshall saw some shining +little stones, and picking them up he laid one on a rock and hammered +it with another till he saw how quickly it changed its shape. He was +sure that these bright, heavy, easily hammered pebbles were gold, but +the men working about the mill would not believe it. So he went to +Sutter, who lived near at a place called Sutter's Fort, because his +stores, house, and other buildings were built around a hollow square +with high walls outside to keep off the Indians. Sutter weighed the +little yellow lumps and said they certainly were gold. + +The flood-gates between the mill-race and the river were opened again, +and water ran through the ditch, washing more gold in sight. Sutter +picked up enough of this to make a ring and had these words marked on +it:-- + +"The first gold found in California, January, 1848." + +Both Sutter and Marshall tried to keep what they had found a secret, +but that was impossible, and soon people were flocking to the +gold-fields. Then began a wild excitement known as the "gold-fever," +and men left their stores and houses, gave up business, and left crops +ungathered in a wild chase after nuggets of gold. + +By December of 1848, thousands of miners were washing for gold +all along the foot-hills from the Tuolumne River to the Feather, +a distance of 150 miles. A hundred thousand men came to California +during 1849, these Argonauts, or gold-hunters, taking ship or steamer +for the long trip from New York by the Isthmus of Panama. Some went +round Cape Horn, or else made a weary journey overland across the +plains. "To the land of gold" was their motto, and these pioneers +endured every hardship to reach this "Golden State." + +Then the miners, with pick, shovel, and pan for washing out gold from +the gravel it was found in, started out "prospecting" for "pay-dirt." +The gold-diggings were usually along the rivers, and this surface, or +"placer," mining was done by shovelling the "pay-dirt" into a pan or a +wooden box called a cradle, and rocking or shaking this box from side +to side while pouring water over the earth. The heavy gold, either +in fine scales or dust, or in lumps called nuggets, dropped to the +bottom, while the loose earth ran out in a muddy stream. The rich sand +left in pan or cradle was carefully washed again and again till only +precious, shining gold remained. + +So rich were some of the sand bars along the American and Feather +rivers that the first miners made a thousand dollars a day even by +this careless way of washing gold where much of it was lost. Then +again for days or weeks the miner found nothing at all. He would +wander up and down the cañons and gulches, prospecting for another +claim, and dreaming day and night of finding a stream with golden +sands, or of picking up rich nuggets. If he found good "diggings" he +would build a rough shanty under the pines, and dig and wash till the +gold-bearing sand or gravel gave out again. Sometimes he had a partner +and a donkey, or burro, to carry tools and pack supplies. More often +the Argonaut cooked his own bacon and slapjacks and simmered his beans +over a lonely camp-fire, and slept wrapped in a blanket under the +trees. If he had much gold, he would go to the nearest town, buy food +enough for another prospecting tramp, and often spend all the rest of +his money in foolish waste. + +Sometimes a company of miners would build a dam across a river or +stream, and turn it from its course, so they could dig out and wash +the rich gravel in the river-bed. A flume, or ditch, would often carry +all the water to a lower part of the river, leaving the bed of the +upper stream dry for miles. In this kind of mining the "pay-dirt" was +shovelled into long wooden boxes called sluices, and a constant stream +of water kept the gravel and earth moving on out to a dumping-place. +The gold dropped down or settled into riffles, or spaces between bars +placed across the bottom of the sluices, and once a week the water was +turned off and a "clean-up" made of the gold. + +It was not long before the rivers, creeks, and gulches had all been +worked over and most of the gold taken out. The miners knew that this +loose gold had been washed out of the hills by the rains and storms of +countless years. So some one thought of using a heavy stream of water +to break down the foot-hills themselves and to carry the gold-bearing +gravel to sluice boxes. This is called hydraulic mining and is the +cheapest way of handling earth, as water does all the work and +very little shovelling is needed. But since a strong water-power is +necessary, a large reservoir and miles of ditches or wooden flumes +must be built, so the first expense is large. The water usually comes +from higher up in the mountains, and is forced under great pressure +through iron pipes, the nozzle or "giant" being directed at the +hillside, which has already been shattered by heavy blasts of powder. +The water tears thousands of tons of earth and gravel apart, and the +muddy stream flows through sluices, where the gold is left. In this +kind of mining a great quantity of débris, or "tailings," must be +disposed of. + +For years this débris was washed into the rivers or on farming lands, +filling up and ruining both, and leading to endless quarrels between +farmers and miners. But at last the courts stopped hydraulic mining +except in northern counties, where débris went into the Klamath River, +upon which no boats could run and near which was little farming. But +all the mines in the Sacramento and San Joaquin river-basins were idle +till, in 1893, Congress appointed a Débris Commission. These mining +engineers issue licenses to work the mines when satisfied that the +débris will be kept out of the rivers. There are in the state many +hundred thousand acres of gold-bearing gravel lands yet untouched, +that could be worked by hydraulic mining. + +In drift-mining the rich gravel is covered by hard lava rock thrown +up by some old volcanic outburst. Tunnels are driven by blasting with +dynamite, or by drilling under the rock to reach the gravel which +usually lies in the buried channel of an old river. The long drifts, +or tunnels, needed are very expensive and only mine owners with +capital can work these claims. + +Richest of all are the quartz mines, where beautiful white rock, rich +with sparkling gold, is found in veins, or "lodes," cropping out of +hillsides or dipping down under the earth. The great "Mother-lode" +of our state runs like an underground wall across Amador, Calaveras, +Tuolumne, and Mariposa counties and has been traced for eighty miles. + +Some poor miner usually finds a ledge of quartz-rock and digs down the +way the ledge goes. He puts up a windlass, worked by hand, over the +well-like hole he has dug out, and hoists the ore out in buckets. But +he soon finds, as the hole or shaft goes deeper, that he must timber +the sides to keep them from caving in, that he must have an engine to +raise the ore and a mill to crush the hard rock. So he sells out to a +company of men, who put in costly machinery, deepen the shaft, and by +heavy expenditure get large returns. + +The quartz ledges dip and turn, so tunnels and cross-cuts are run to +follow the golden vein, and all these are timbered with heavy wooden +supports to keep the earth and rock from falling in on the men. The +miners work in day and night gangs, using dynamite to break up the +hard rock, and sending ore up in great iron buckets, or in cars if the +tunnel ends in daylight, on the hillside. Sometimes the miners +strike water, and that must be pumped out to keep the mine from being +flooded. + +The ore is crushed by heavy stamps, or hammers, and then mixed with +water and quicksilver. This curious metal, quicksilver, or mercury, +is fond of gold and hunts out every little bit, the two metals mixing +together and making what is called an amalgam. This is heated in an +iron vessel, and the quicksilver goes off in steam or vapor, leaving +the gold free. The quicksilver, being valuable, is saved and used +again, while the gold, now called bullion, is sent to the mint to be +coined into bright twenties, or tens, or five-dollar pieces. + +Some of the gold in the crushed ore will not mix with the quicksilver, +and this is treated to a bath of cyanide, a peculiar acid that melts +the gold as water does a lump of sugar. So all of value is saved, and +the worthless "tailings" go to the dump. Even the black sands on the +ocean beach have gold in them. In the desert also there is gold, which +is "dry-washed" by putting the sand into a machine and with a strong +blast of air blowing away all but the heavy scales of gold. + +Though the Argonauts of '49 found much wealth in yellow gold, our +"Golden State," on hillsides, in river-beds, or deep down in hidden +quartz ledges, still holds great fortunes waiting to be found. + + + + +MINING STORIES + + +A large book might be filled with the stories told by the men +who found gold in the early days. Their "lucky strikes" in the +"dry-diggings" sound like fairy tales. Imagine turning over a big rock +and then picking up pieces of gold enough to half fill a man's hat +from the little nest that rock had been lying in for years and years! + +And think of finding forty-three thousand dollars in a yellow lump +over a foot long, six inches wide and four inches thick! This was +the biggest nugget on record and actually weighed one hundred and +ninety-five pounds. The next one, too, you might have been glad to +pick up, as it held a hundred and thirty-three pounds of solid gold. +Little seventy-five and fifty-pound treasures were common, and a +soldier stopping to drink at a roadside stream found a nugget weighing +over twenty pounds lying close to his hand. + +It paid to get up early those days, also for a man in Sonora, while +taking his morning walk, struck his foot against a large stone, and +forgot the pain when he saw the stone was nearly all gold. Another +man, with good eyes, got a fifty-pound nugget on a trail many people +used all the time. One day, after a heavy rain, a man who was leading +a mule and cart through a street in Sonora, noticed that the wheel +struck a big stone; he stooped to lift it out of the way, and found +the stone to be a lump of gold weighing thirty-five pounds. In less +than an hour all that part of the town and the street was staked off +into mining-claims, but no more was found. One of the largest of these +nuggets was found by three or four men, who took it to San Francisco +and the Eastern states, and exhibited it for money. They guarded the +precious thing day and night, but at last quarrelled so that it had to +be broken up and divided between them. + +The first piece Marshall found was said to be worth about fifty cents, +and the second over five dollars. Almost all, though, that was found +was like beans or small seeds or in fine dust. No one tried to weigh +or measure such gold more correctly than to call a pinch between the +finger and thumb a dollar's worth, while a teaspoonful was an ounce, +or sixteen dollars' worth. A wineglassful meant a hundred dollars, +and a tumblerful a thousand. Miners carried their "dust" in a buckskin +bag, and this was put on the counter, and the storekeeper took out +what he thought enough to pay for the things the miner bought. A large +thumb to take a large pinch of the gold-dust meant a good many extra +dollars to the storekeeper in '48 and '49. Yet nearly every one was +honest, and gold might be left in an open tent untouched, for there +was plenty more to be had for the picking up. Those who would rather +steal than work were driven out of camp. + +Some of the "sand bars," or banks of gravel and earth, washed down by +the Yuba River were so rich that the men could pick out a tin cupful +of gold day after day for weeks. One place was called Tin-cup Bar for +this reason. Spanish Bar, on the American River, yielded a million +dollars' worth of dust, and at Ford's Bar, a miner, named Ford, took +out seven hundred dollars a day for three weeks. At Rich Bar, on the +Feather River, a panful of earth gave fifteen hundred dollars. + +Yet the miners were seldom satisfied, but were always prospecting for +richer claims. A man would shoulder his roll of blankets, his pick and +shovel, with a few cooking things, and start off hoping to find some +rich nugget, leaving a fairly good claim untouched. + +The most extravagant prices were charged the miner for everything he +had to buy. Ten dollars apiece for pick and shovel, fifty more for a +pair of long boots, with bacon and potatoes at a dollar and a half a +pound, soon took all his gold-dust to pay for. A dozen fresh eggs cost +ten dollars, and a box of sardines half an ounce of gold-dust, which +was eight dollars. There was no butter to buy, for any milk was +quickly sold at a dollar a pint. The hotels charged three dollars a +meal, or a dollar for a dish of pork and beans, and a dollar for two +potatoes. + +Lumber cost a dollar and a half a foot, but carpenters would not build +houses when they could make fifty dollars a day by mining. As there +was no lumber for the cabin floors, the ground was beaten hard and +really made a good floor. In Placerville the houses were built along +the bed of a ravine, and in sweeping these earthen floors some one saw +gold-dust glittering, and found that rich diggings were under foot. +Thereupon many of the miners dug up their cabin floors, and one man +took about twenty thousand dollars in nuggets and gold-dust from the +small space his cabin covered. + +Very few women and children came to the mines in early days, and the +first white woman to arrive in a camp had all sorts of attentions. +Sometimes the town was named for the woman first in the place as +Sarahsville and Marietta. If a lady visited a mining-camp, the men far +and near would drop work and come in just to look at the visitor. One +lady, who sang for the miners on her arrival in their town, was given +about five hundred dollars' worth of gold-dust. + +A child was a great curiosity, and any pretty little girl was sure to +have a collection of nuggets or a quantity of gold-dust presented to +her. The theatre and circus companies who visited mining-camps soon +found out that a little child who could sing or dance was a great +attraction. The miners used to throw a shower of money or nuggets at +the feet of such little favorites as we throw flowers now. + +As there were no women living here for some time, the men having left +their families at home in the Eastern states, miners had to wash +and cook and make bread for themselves. Men who had been lawyers +or ministers at home, when there was no one else to do such things, +washed their dishes or their red flannel shirts. On Sunday no one +worked at mining, and the men baked bread and cleaned house, and +Sunday afternoons they dried, patched, and mended their clothes. If a +minister was in town, he held services on a hillside, or in the dining +room of some shanty called a hotel, and all the camp came to hear him +speak, or sang the hymns with him. + +So the miners lived and worked and wandered along rivers and rough +mountain trails on the west side of the Sierras, gathering up gold +washed down by mountain streams. These Argonauts, or gold-seekers of +fifty years ago, are almost all dead now, but the treasures they found +made California known throughout the world. Their golden harvest has +made the state richer than they found it, for they used the wealth to +build cities, to cultivate farming-lands, and to plant orchards and +vineyards where the mining-camps used to be. + + + + +HOW POLLY ELLIOTT CAME ACROSS THE PLAINS + + +This is the story of a little girl who in 1849 rode all the way +from Ohio to California in an emigrant wagon. Polly Elliott has +grandchildren of her own now, but she remembers very well the spring +morning when her father came home and said to her mother, "Lizzie, +can you get ready to start for the land of gold next week?" She hears +again her mother saying, "Oh, John, with all these little children?" +She says her father answered by swinging her, the eleven-year-old +Polly, up to his shoulder and calling out, "Here's papa's little +woman; she'll help you take care of them," as he carried her round the +room, laughing. + +This was "back East," as Polly Elliott, now Mrs. Davis, says,--in +Ohio, where they had a pretty white house set round with apple and +peach orchards all white and pink that May day. Her mother cried +because they must leave the house, and because they had to sell all +their furniture and the stock except Daisy, the pet cow, and Buck and +Bright, the oxen, who were to draw the wagon. A round-topped cover of +white cloth was fixed on the big farm-wagon. Then they piled into it +their bedding in calico covers, a chest or two holding clothes and +household goods, a few dishes and cooking things, and plenty of flour, +corn meal, beans, bacon, dried apples and peaches, tied up in sacks. + +Polly says she supposed the trip would just be one long picnic, while +the four children thought it fine fun to "sit on mother's featherbed +and go riding," as they said. So they started off for California. +A long, long ride these emigrants had before them; a weary trip, +plodding along day after day with the patient oxen walking slowly and +the burning sun or pelting rain beating down on the wagon cover. There +was a train of other wagons with them, some pulled by horses but more +by yoked oxen, and the men walked beside the animals and cracked long +whips. A few men were on horseback, but all kept together, for Indians +were plenty and were often hiding near the road, watching for a chance +to cut off and capture any wagons lagging behind the party. + +Day after day, Polly told me, they travelled westward to the setting +sun. They left the orchards and shady woods of Ohio and Indiana far +behind them, and crossed the wide prairies of Illinois and +Missouri also. When they came to rivers they drove through shallow +fording-places, where Polly and the children used to laugh to see the +little fishes swimming round the wagon wheels. Sometimes the rivers +were deep, and the wagons were ferried over on a flatboat that was +fastened to a wire rope, while oxen and horses swam through the water +behind them. If it did not rain, the children and all were happy, and +it did seem like a picnic. But Polly says she never hears the rain +pouring nowadays as it did then, and that there were many times when +they were wet and cold and miserable, and because the wood and ground +were wet they could not even have a fire. + +At night the teams were unhitched and the wagons left in a circle +round a big camp-fire, where supper was cooked. Polly says her mother +used to bake biscuits in an iron spider with red-hot coals heaped on +its iron cover, and these biscuits with fried bacon and tea made +their meal. They always cooked a big potful of corn-meal mush for +the children, and this, with Daisy's milk and a little maple sugar or +molasses, was supper and breakfast too. Then the women and children +cuddled up in the wagons for the night, while men slept, wrapped in +blankets, around the camp-fire or under the wagons, with one always on +guard against danger from prowling Indians or wolves. + +Every man or boy carried a rifle or shotgun, and killed plenty of +game. Deer and antelope were always in sight after they crossed the +Missouri River, and the meat was broiled or roasted over the coals of +their campfire. Wild turkeys and prairie-chicken tasted much better +than bacon, Polly said, and she learned to cook them herself. + +When the emigrants reached Nebraska, they were in the "buffalo +country," and great herds of big, shaggy, brown or black buffaloes +were feeding on the grassy plains. The animals were larger than oxen, +and the Indians depended upon the flesh for food and the thick, warm +skins for robes or blankets. The emigrants shot thousands of buffalo +cows and calves, and what meat could not be eaten at once was cut +into long strips and hung in the sun or over the fire to dry. This +was called "jerking" the meat. On jerked buffalo or venison and flour +pancakes many emigrants lived all the way across. Game was so plenty +and so easy to shoot, that by stopping a few days, a good stock of +meat could be laid in while the oxen were resting. So they travelled +through Nebraska, and for weeks and weeks saw nothing but long grass +waving in the summer winds, and yellow sunflowers--miles and miles of +sunflowers. Polly grew very tired of the hot sun blazing down on the +close-covered wagon, and of the dust raised by the long wagon-train. + +About this time she remembers that her father bought her a little +Indian pony, and from that happy day the child rode beside the wagon, +and could keep out of the dusty trail, or ride a little way off on the +prairie, if she liked. The pony carried double very well, so a small +sister or brother was often lifted on behind for a ride. One night +the Indians, who were always prowling round and coming as near the +wagon-train as they dared, frightened the horses and got away with ten +of them. All the women and children cried, Polly says, for they were +afraid the redskins would come back and kill them. In the morning +Polly's father and some of the men found the Indians' trail and +tracked them to a wooded cañon. The hungry thieves had killed one +horse and were so busy feasting on it that the white men surprised +them and shot all the Indians but two or three. The lost horses and +Polly's pony whinnied to their masters from a thicket, where they were +tied, and were taken back to camp. + +On and on over the great plains of Wyoming the wagons carried these +emigrants. Many found the trip grow tiresome, while the oxen and mules +would often lie down in their traces and refuse to go any farther. A +few days' rest, and the rich bunch-grass to crop soon set the stock +all right, and the white-topped wagons crawled ahead again. Soon the +emigrants saw blue, hazy mountains, far off at first, then nearer and +nearer, till at last their road led through a pass between the peaks. + +Then Polly remembers riding through Utah, with its queer red cliffs +and high rocks carved in strange shapes by winds and weather; the +stretches of sandy desert; and beyond those, grassy meadows and +streams fringed with green willows. After a while Great Salt Lake lay +sparkling in the sun and looking cool and blue. All around it were +alkali deserts or wide plains, hot and dusty and white with salt or +soda. The "prairie schooners," with their covers faded and burnt by +the sun, went very slowly over these desert wastes, Polly thought, +and Nevada, with its dusty gray sage-brush land on either side of the +road, seemed not much better. + +"Papa's little woman" had her hands full now; for her mother was so +ill she seldom left the wagon. All the cooking fell to Polly's share, +and then she would ride along for hours with a little sister on her +lap and fat brother "Bub" behind her on the saddle-blanket, so that +her mother might rest and be quiet. + +But soon the clear green Truckee River ran foaming and fretting beside +the road, and off in the west rose the snowy peaks of the Sierra +Nevada Mountains. Then the people began to laugh and to sing, for they +knew that California, the land of gold, was almost in sight and that +their weary journey was nearly ended. + +And one day they said joyfully to each other, "We are in California +at last;" and it was a happy company that travelled down through the +pines of the mountain sides and the oak trees of the foot-hills. Many +emigrants left the train when they got to the great Sacramento River +valley, and settled here and there to farming. Polly's father with +others kept on to the gold-diggings and camped there. He built a +log-cabin soon, for it was almost winter and time for the rains, and +Polly says she was glad to have a house at last. They finally took up +farming land near what is now Stockton, as gold-mining did not pay. + +Mrs. Davis, who is straight and strong, and still a hard worker, says +her five months' trip across the plains was almost like a long picnic +after all, for she has forgotten many of the trying and disagreeable +things. + + + + +THE BUILDING OF THE OVERLAND RAILROAD + + +The army of emigrants and gold-hunters who crossed the plains to +California found it was a long and tiresome trip by wagon-train or on +horseback. The oxen or mules would sometimes get so tired that they +could go no farther; and because the food often ran short, there was +much suffering from hunger. + +The longest way of all to California was by sailing vessel from New +York round Cape Horn, nearly nineteen thousand miles to San Francisco. +The passengers paid high prices and were six months on the way. Those +who came by the Panama route had trouble crossing the isthmus, where +it was so hot and unhealthy that many died of fevers and cholera. The +Pacific mail steamers connecting with a railroad across the isthmus +at last shortened the time of this trip of six thousand miles to +twenty-five days. For ten years all the Eastern mail came this way +twice a month. + +It was thought a wonderful thing when the "pony express" carried mail +twice a week between St. Joseph, Missouri, where the Eastern railroads +ended, and Sacramento. To do this a rider, with the mail-bag slung +over his shoulder, rode a horse twenty-four miles to the next station, +where a fresh pony was ready. Hardly waiting to eat or sleep, the +rider galloped on again. Five dollars was often charged at that time +to bring the letter railroads carry now for two cents. + +So you will see that a railroad to join California to the Eastern +states was a great necessity and had often been talked of. Several +ways to bring the iron horse puffing across the plains and up the +mountains with his long train of cars had been laid out on paper. The +emigrants had found that the best highway from the Missouri River +to California was to keep along the Platte River in Nebraska to Fort +Laramie and the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, then by Salt Lake, +and along the Humboldt and Truckee rivers, crossing the Sierras +at Donner Pass. Other roads were talked of, and Senator Benton of +Missouri favored a nearly straight line between St. Louis and San +Francisco. Some one, in objecting to this, said that only engineers +could lay out a railroad, and such men did not believe a straight line +possible. The senator answered: "There are engineers who never learned +in school the shortest and straightest way to go, and those are the +buffalo, deer, bear, and antelope, the wild animals who always find +the right path to the lowest passes in the mountains, to rich pastures +and salt springs, and to the shallow fords in the rivers. The Indians +follow the buffalo's path, and so does the white man for game +to shoot. Then the white man builds a wagon-road and at last his +railroad, on the trail the buffalo first laid out." + +For two or three years surveyors and explorers tried to find the +easiest way to build this great overland road. Several railroad acts +or bills were passed by Congress, and the California Legislature gave +the United States the right of way for a road to join the two oceans. + +The first railway in the state was opened in '56 from Sacramento to +Folsom, a distance of twenty-two miles. This was built by T.D. +Judah, an engineer who had thought and studied a great deal about the +overland road so much needed to bring mail and passengers quickly from +East to West. + +A railroad convention, made up of men from the Pacific states and +territories, was held in San Francisco in '59, with General John +Bidwell, a pathfinder of early days, as the chairman. Here Mr. Judah +gave such a clear and full account of the central way he had +planned, that the convention sent him to Washington, D.C., to see the +President, and to try to get Congress to pass a Pacific Railroad +Bill. He had very little help in the East, but at last four men +of Sacramento, Leland Stanford, C.P. Huntington, Mark Hopkins, and +Charles Crocker, took an interest in Judah's plans, and in '61 the +Central Pacific Railroad Company was formed. Mr. Judah went back +to the mountains and studied the pines in summer and the winter +snowbanks, to make sure of the easiest grades and the shortest and +best way for the track-layers. He found that to follow the Truckee +River from near Lake Donner to the Humboldt Desert, would mean the +least work. The tunnels would be through rock, and he believed that +snow might easily be kept off the track with a snow-plough. + +His report pleased the company, and they sent him again to present the +case at Washington. In '62 President Lincoln signed an act or bill to +allow the Union and Central Pacific companies to build a railroad and +a telegraph line from the Missouri River to the Pacific. In California +the land for fifteen miles on each side of the way laid out was given +to the railroad company, and two years was allowed them to build the +first hundred miles of track. + +Ground was broken for the Central Pacific the next year in Sacramento, +and Governor Stanford dug up the first shovelful of earth. Then the +work went steadily on, but it was hard to raise money. Stanford +and his company carried the line forward as fast as possible. More +land-grants were given, which doubled the company's holdings, and in +'65 the road was fifty-five miles past Sacramento and had climbed over +much difficult work. + +The steamship owners, the express and stage companies were all against +the railroad, and tried in every way to make people think that an +engine could never cross the Sierras. Yet the grading went on, while +an army of five thousand men and six hundred horses was at work +cutting down trees and hills and filling up the low places. A bridge +was built over the American River, and slowly but surely the track +climbed the steep mountain-sides. Most of the laborers were Chinese, +as white men found mining or farming paid them better. + +In '67 the iron horse had not only climbed the mountains but had +reached the state line, and the Union Pacific, which had been laying +its tracks over the plains of the Platte River, began to hasten +westward. The two railroads were racing to meet each other, and the +Central sometimes laid ten miles of rails in one day. + +Ogden was made the meeting-point, though at Promontory, fifty miles +west of Ogden, the last spike was driven. A thousand people met at +that place in May, '69, to see the short space of track closed and the +road finished. A Central train and locomotive from the Pacific came +steaming up, and an engine and cars from the Atlantic pulled in on +the other side. Both engines whistled till the snow-capped mountains +echoed. The last tie was of polished California laurel wood, with +a silver plate on which the names of the two companies and their +officers were engraved. It was put under the last two rails, and all +was fastened together with the last spike. This spike, made of solid +gold, Governor Stanford hammered into place with a silver hammer. East +and west the news was flashed over the long telegraph line, that the +overland railroad had been finished and that two oceans were joined by +iron rails. + +Now, while flying along in the cars so fast that the trip from Chicago +to San Francisco takes but three days, it is hard to believe that +little more than thirty years ago travellers in the slow-moving +"prairie-schooner" took over five months to cover this same distance. + + + + +STORY OF THE WHEAT FIELDS + + +The Spanish Padres, as the Mission priests were called, taught the +Indians to plough and seed with wheat the lands belonging to the +church or Mission. They used a simple wooden plough, which oxen +pulled. When the warm brown earth was turned up, the Indians broke the +clods by dragging great tree branches over them. After the fall rains +they scattered tiny wheat kernels and covered them snugly for their +nap in the dark ground. + +More rain fell, and soon the soaked seeds waked, and started in +slender green shoots to find the sunshine, and day by day the stalks +grew stronger and the fields greener. Higher and ever higher sprang +the wheat, till summer winds set the tall grain waving in a sea +of green billows. Have you ever watched the wind blow across a +wheat-field? Over and over the long rollers bend the tops of the +grain, that rise as the breeze goes on and bend low again at the next +breath of wind. + +When the hot sun had ripened the grain, and all round the +white-walled, red-roofed Mission the fields stretched golden and ready +for harvest, the Indians cut the wheat, and scattering the bundles +over a spot of hard ground, drove oxen round and round on the sheaves +till the wheat was threshed out from the straw. Then Indian women +winnowed out the chaff and dirt by tossing the grain up in the wind, +or from basket to basket, till in this slow way the yellow kernels +were made clean and ready to grind. + +A curious mill, called an arrastra, ground the grain between two heavy +stones. A wooden beam was fastened to the upper stone, and oxen or a +mule hitched to this beam turned the stone as they walked round. The +first flour-mill worked by water was put up at San Gabriel Mission, +and it was thought a wonderful thing indeed. + +Even in those early days California wheat was known to be excellent, +and many ships came on the South Sea, as they then called the Pacific +Ocean, to load with grain for Mexico or Boston or England. Since that +time our state has fed countless people, and over a million acres of +valley and hill lands are green and golden every year with food for +the world. To Europe, to the swarming people of China, Japan, and +India, to South Africa and Australia, our grain is carried in great +ships and steamers, and hungry nations in many lands look to us for +bread. + +For a long time after the Mission days, all the grain had to be hauled +to the rivers or sea-coast for shipping. Then the overland railroad +was finished, and within the next fifteen years an additional two +thousand miles of railways were built in California, and nearly every +mile opened up rich wheat land that had never been cultivated. Soon +great wheat ranches stretched far over the dry, hot valley plains. + +The ground is ploughed and seeded after November rains, and all winter +the tender blades of grain grow greener and stronger day by day March +and April rains strengthen the crop wonderfully, and June and July +bring the harvest-time. As no rain falls then, the ripe wheat stands +in the field till cut, and afterward in sacks without harm. All the +work except ploughing is done by machinery, and this makes the wheat +cost less to raise, since a machine does the work of many men and the +expense of running it is small. + +Some of the ranches have three or four thousand acres in wheat, and +it may interest you to know how such large farms are managed. The +ploughing is done by a gang-plough, as it is called, which has four +steel ploughshares that turn up the ground ten inches deep. Eight +horses draw this, and as a seeder is fastened to the plough, and back +of the plough a harrow, the horses plough, seed, harrow, and cover up +the grain at one time. There the seed-wheat lies tucked up in its warm +brown bed till rain and sunshine call out the tiny green spears, and +coax them higher and stronger, and the hot sun of June and July ripens +the precious grain. + +Then a great machine called a "header and thresher" is driven into +the field and sweeps through miles and miles of bending grain, cutting +swaths as wide as a street, and harvesting, threshing, and leaving +a long trail of sacked wheat ready to ship on the cars. Thirty-six +horses draw the header, and five or six men are needed to attend to +this giant, who bites off the grain, shakes out the kernels, throws +them into sacks and sews them up, all in one breath, as you might say. +The harvesters work from daylight to dusk, and three-fourths of our +wheat crop is gathered in this way. + +Much golden straw is left, besides that which the "headers" burn as +fuel, and farmers stack this straw for cattle to nibble at. The stock +feed in the stubble fields, too, and strange visitors also come +to these ranches to pick up the scattered grains of wheat. These +strangers are wild white geese, in such large flocks that when feeding +they look like snow patches on the ground. They eat so much that often +they cannot fly and may be knocked over with clubs. In the spring +these geese must be driven away by watchmen with shot-guns to keep +them from pulling up the young grain. + +The largest single wheat-field in California is on the banks of the +San Joaquin River, in Madera County. This covers twenty-five thousand +acres and is almost as flat as a floor. It is nearly a perfect square +in shape, and each side of the square is a little over six miles long. +There are no roads through this solid stretch of grain. Two hundred +men, a thousand horses, and many big machines are needed to work this +wheat-field. + +Some of the big harvesters that cut and thresh the wheat are drawn by +a traction-engine instead of horses. In running a fifty-horse-power +engine high-priced coal had to be burnt but now the coal grates are +replaced by petroleum burners, and crude coal-oil is the cheap fuel. +This does not make sparks to set the fields on fire like burning coal +or straw and so is safer to use. + +On large ranches wheat can be grown for less than a cent a pound, +while it has brought two cents or double the money when sold. But +there are not always good crops, as the grain needs plenty of moisture +in the spring when rains are uncertain. + +The wheat crop of the state has fallen off of late to less than half +the yield of earlier years, but the deep, rich valley soil still grows +grain enough to feed hungry people in Europe, Asia, and Africa, +as well as in our own Union. Great quantities are taken in large +four-masted ships to Liverpool, England, and there made into American +flour. Our own flour-mills turn out thousands of barrels of flour, +and this travels far, too. The first thing picked up in Manila after +Admiral Dewey's victory was a flour sack with a California mill mark. + +It would need a long, long story to tell how far from home and into +what strange places the yellow kernels of California wheat sometimes +travel, or to picture the odd people who depend upon us for food. + + + + +ORCHARD, FARM, AND VINEYARD + + +Long ago the Mission Fathers taught the Indians to plant and to take +care of vines and fruit-trees. They built water-works to bring life to +the thirsty trees in the dry summers, and to grow oranges, limes, +and figs, as well as peaches, apricots, and apples. They trained +grape-vines over arbors and trellises round the Mission buildings, and +from the small, black grapes made wine. Olive trees and date-palms did +well at the southern settlements. But most of these orchards died when +the Mission Fathers were no longer allowed to make the Indians work +for the church property, though a few old palms and olive trees are +still standing. + +During Mexican days each ranch owner raised enough grain or corn and +beans for his own family but planted no fruit, or but little, while +the Americans who came to seek gold thought farming a slow way of +making a living. People soon found out, however, that our fine climate +and rich soil made good crops almost certain, and there was such +demand for fruit and farm products that more and more acres were +cultivated each year. + +Our leading industry now is farming and fruit-growing, and +California's delicious fresh or cured fruit is sent all over the +world. Large amounts of barley and hops are shipped from here to +Europe, and our state produces almost all the Lima beans used in the +country. + +The citrus fruits, as oranges, lemons, and pomelos, or "grape-fruit," +are called, grow in the seven southern counties, or in the foothills +on the western slope of the Sierras. The trees cannot endure frost and +must be irrigated in the summer. Orange trees are a pretty sight, with +their shining green leaves, white, sweet-smelling flowers, and the +green or golden fruit. About Christmas-time, when oranges ripen, both +blossoms and fruit may be picked from the same tree. Los Angeles and +Orange County grow most oranges, but San Diego is first in lemon +culture. Half a million trees in that county show the bright yellow +fruit and fragrant blossoms every month in the year. The other +southern counties also raise lemons by the car-load to send east, or +for your lemonade and lemon pies at home. + +[Illustration: AN ORANGE TREE WITH FRUIT AND BLOSSOMS.] + +[Illustration: PALMS OVER 100 YEARS OLD AT LOS ANGLES.] + +There, too, the olive grows well, that little plum-shaped fruit you +usually see as a green, salt pickle on the table. The Mission Fathers +brought this tree first from Spain, where the poor people live upon +black bread and olives. Olives are picked while green and put in +a strong brine of salt and water to preserve them for eating. Dark +purple ripe olives are also very good prepared the same way. Did you +know that olive-oil is pressed out of ripe olives? The best oil comes +from the first crushing, and the pulp is afterwards heated, when a +second quality of oil is obtained. Olive trees grow very slowly, and +do not fruit for seven years after they are planted. But they live a +hundred years, and bear more olives every season. + +The black or purple fig which grew in the old Mission gardens bears +fruit everywhere in the state. Either fresh and ripe, or pressed flat +and dried, it is delicious and healthful. White figs like those from +abroad have been raised the last few years, and it is hoped in time to +produce Smyrna figs equal to the imported. + +While peach orchards blossom and bear fruit six months of the year in +the south, most of this pretty pink-cheeked fruit grows in the great +valleys, or along the Sacramento River. Pears also show their snowy +blossoms and yellow fruit in the valleys and farther north. The +Bartlett pear is sent to all the Eastern states in cold storage cars +kept cool by ice, and also to Europe. + +The finest apricots are those of that wonderful southern country, +miles and miles of orchards lying round Fresno especially. Yet the +valleys and foot-hills produce plenty, and in the old mining counties +very choice fruit ripens. Apples like the high mountain valleys, where +they get a touch of frost in winter, though there is a cool section of +San Diego County where fine ones are raised. Cherries do well in the +middle and valley regions, the earliest coming from Vacaville, in +Solano County. + +Grapes grow throughout the state, though the famous raisin vineyards, +where thousands of tons are dried every year, are around Fresno. Most +of the raisins are dried in the sun, but in one factory a hundred tons +of grapes may be dried at one time by steam. The raisins are seeded by +machinery, and packed in pretty boxes to send all over the coast, and +through the states, where once only foreign raisins were used. Many +vineyards in the southern part and middle of the state grow only wine +grapes, California wines, champagne, and brandy having a wide use. + +Great quantities of fresh fruits are used in the state or sent away, +while the canneries put up immense amounts, also. Canned fruit reaches +many consumers, but it is expensive. Our cured or dried fruit, however +is so cheap and so good that millions of pounds are prepared every +year. Such fruit ripens on the tree and so keeps all its fine flavor. +It is then dried in the sunshine, which not only fits it for long +keeping but turns part of it to sugar. Apricots, peaches, pears, and +cherries are usually cut in halves or stoned before drying. Prunes are +first on the list of cured fruits, and they seem the best to use as +food. The ripe prunes are dipped into a boiling lye to make the skin +tender, then rinsed and spread in the sun a day or two. They are then +allowed to "sweat" to get a good color, are next dipped in boiling +water a minute or two, dried, and finally graded, a certain number to +the pound, and packed in boxes or sacks. + +Several kinds of nuts grow well in the state. All the so-called +"English" walnuts, with their thin shells, are raised in the south, +Orange County furnishing half the amount we market. Peanuts and +almonds are a good crop there, also, though almond groves are in all +parts of the state. Both paper and thick-shelled almonds are usually +bleached, or whitened, with sulphur smoke to improve their color. + +Santa Barbara and Ventura are the bean counties of the state, and send +Lima beans away by train-loads, while Orange County grows celery for +the Eastern market. Very high prices are received for this celery and +other vegetables sent from California during the winter season when +fields are covered with snow in the East. + +And did you know that the state produces a great deal of sugar? Tons +and tons of sugar-beets are grown throughout the farming lands, and +harvested in September. When the juice of these crushed beets is +boiled and refined, it makes a sugar exactly like cane sugar and much +cheaper. One-fifth of the beet is sugar, it is said. + +Even the dry, worthless mountain sides are valuable to the bee-keeper. +The bees make a delicious honey from the wild, white sage, which grows +where nothing else will live. This sage honey brings the very highest +price. + +Oats are raised in the coast counties, and corn in the valleys, but +owing to cool nights and dry air the corn seldom makes a good crop. +Orange County, however, claims corn with stalks twenty feet high and +a hundred bushels to the acre. In the south, also, that wonderful +forage-plant, alfalfa, will produce six crops a year by irrigation and +give a ton or more to the acre at each cutting. + +Along the upper Sacramento River stretch the great hop-fields full +of tall vines covered with light-green tassels. At hop-picking season +many families have a month's picnic, children and all working day +after day in the fields and pulling off the fragrant hops. Indians, +too, are among the best hop-pickers. The dried hops are bleached with +sulphur, baled, and in great quantities sent to Liverpool, where with +California barley they are used in brewing malt liquors. + +An odd crop is mustard, and at Lompoc, in Santa Barbara County, enough +for the whole country is grown. Both brown and yellow mustard is +cultivated, and the little seeds, almost as fine as gunpowder, are +sold to spice-mills and pickle-factories. + +Whole farms are taken up with the production of flower-seeds or bulbs, +with acres and acres of calla-lilies, roses, carnations, and violets. +The tall pampas-grass, with its long feathery plumes, gives a +profitable crop. Indeed, one can scarcely name a fruit, flower, or +tree that will not thrive and grow to perfection in our mild climate +and rich soil. + + + + +THE STORY OF THE NAVEL ORANGE + + +Who has not enjoyed a juicy navel orange, while wondering at its +peculiar shape and lack of troublesome seeds? Yet few people know that +this particular variety has brought millions of dollars into our state +and made orange growing our third greatest industry. + +Read this story of the seedless orange, this "golden apple of +California," which was first cultivated by Luther Tibbets, of +Riverside, and learn how Southern California has profited by its navel +orange crops. + +Nearly thirty years ago Mr. Tibbets came from New York to this state +and took up free government land near what is now the beautiful city +of Riverside. He was one of the half-dozen pioneer fruit-growers +of that region, and had noticed at the San Gabriel Mission how well +orange trees grew there. His wife and daughter waited in Washington, +D.C., until a home should be ready here for them, and they often sent +Mr. Tibbets plants and seeds from the Department of Agriculture. To +this Department and its gardens in Washington, many curious plants +are forwarded from other countries for growing and experiment in the +United States. New kinds of grain or fruits are carefully cultivated +and watched by the Department, and from it farmers can always get +seeds or cuttings to try on their own farms. + +Mrs. Tibbets often visited the Department gardens, and in 1873 she +wrote to her husband that she could get him some fine orange trees if +he would promise the government to take great care of them and to keep +them apart from other trees till they fruited. Of course he agreed to +give them special attention, and therefore that December he received +three small, rooted orange trees. A cow chewed up one of these, but +for five years the others were watched and tended. Then sweet white +blossoms appeared on each little tree, and afterwards two oranges, +like hard green bullets at first. Finally, in January, 1879, Mr. +Tibbets picked four large, well-flavored, golden oranges, the first +seedless ones ever grown outside of Brazil. + +From the hot swamps of the tropical country at Bahia the United States +Consul had sent six cuttings of this peculiar orange to be planted +in the Washington gardens. All died but the two at Riverside. In 1880 +they bore half a bushel of fruit, and the new seedless oranges were +talked of throughout Southern California. The other orange growers +had been cultivating "seedlings," trees which bore smaller fruit, with +many bitter seeds and a thick skin. Many of these growers now cut back +their seedlings to bare limbs, and grafted the new orange on these +branches. This is called "budding," and is done by cutting off a thin +slip of bark with a tiny folded-up leaf-bud on it, inserting the graft +in the branch to be budded and securing it there with wax to keep the +air out. The little bud drinks in sap from the tree stem, and grows +and blossoms true to its own mother tree. + +There were few orange groves then, but soon nearly all were budded +to the new kind, seventy-five acres being so changed on the Baldwin +Ranch; and when these trees began to bear, some five years afterwards, +people were much excited over the seedless fruit. + +Such high prices were paid for these oranges at first, that orange +growing boomed all over Southern California. People thought their +fortunes were made when they set out a few acres of small budded trees +they had paid a dollar or more apiece for. Whole towns sprang up in +dry treeless valleys where only cattle and sheep had pastured, +and land worth only twenty-five dollars an acre before the orange +excitement, sold quickly for eight hundred and a thousand when planted +with trees. The towns of Pomona, Redlands, Monrovia, and others in +the orange localities were unknown before 1885, and grew to several +thousand population in a few years. Everybody talked of the great +profit in orange growing, and people who had nurseries of young trees +grown from navel buds made fortunes. + +At this day thousands of acres of seedless oranges are in full bearing +and no one buys the old kinds. Hundreds of car-loads of the seedlings +are not even picked, and ninety per cent of the eighteen thousand +car-loads which make the season's orange crop are navel oranges. Over +forty-five millions of dollars are now invested in the growing and +marketing of this remarkable fruit. + +At Riverside, the home of the orange, the two original Washington +navel trees still stand. Mr. Tibbets guarded them for years, had them +fenced with high latticework, and seldom allowed any one to touch +them. He refused ten thousand dollars for them, since for months he +sold hundreds of dollars' worth of buds from these parent trees. These +two trees and their large family have caused thousands of people to +come to the state, and have built up Southern California wonderfully. + + + + +THE LEMON + + +For many years people who use that sour but necessary fruit, the +lemon, thought that only the little yellow ones which came from the +far-away island of Sicily were good. The men who import foreign fruits +always said so; and in spite of the fact that the larger California +lemon was more acid, of as good flavor, smooth skinned, and golden, +people believed the Mediterranean groves produced the best. But, at +last, our warm, dry air, good soil, and plenty of water, together with +care and skill while growing and packing, have made California lemons +the most in demand. These lemons keep well, and bear shipping and long +journeys better than the imported fruit. + +Citrus fruits, as the orange and lemon are called, do well in all the +southern counties, and San Diego County boasts of not only the largest +lemon grove in California, but in the world. This is a thousand-acre +tract overlooking San Diego Bay and cultivated by the Chula Vista +colony. It was once a pasture given up to wandering bands of cattle +and sheep. There was little water, and no one ever thought these dry +mesa lands would one day be a beautiful garden spot, green with the +shining lemon leaves, and golden with fruit. + +A company was formed to develop this forty-two square miles of land, +and to get water for irrigation, since all the trees must have little +streams of water round their thirsty roots three or four times during +the dry summer. A great dam was constructed on the Sweetwater River, +near Chula Vista, and a reservoir built. Water was piped from this to +the lemon groves, which are about a hundred feet below the reservoir, +and from May to September the trees are irrigated. This is done by +ploughing furrows on each side of a row of trees and turning small +rills of water slowly down them till the ground is soaked around the +tree roots. No one thought the great reservoir would ever be empty, +but two winters with but little rain made it necessary to put down +many wells in the dry bed of the Sweetwater River, and from these a +strong steady flow of millions of gallons is pumped into the water +pipes. So this great lemon orchard is always sure of water enough, +returning the gift later in generous golden measure. + +One may pick lemon blossoms, ripe and green fruit every month in the +year from the same tree, but most of the crop ripens from November to +June. + +Lemons are carefully cut from the tree, and usually picked by size, a +ring being slipped over them, without regard to their ripeness. They +grow so thick on the tree that a man can pick more than twenty boxes +a day. In preparing it for market the fruit "sweats," as it is called, +in airy boxes, for a month in winter and ten days in summer, and +ripens and colors during this process. Then each lemon is wiped +dry and clean, wrapped separately in tissue-paper, and packed for +shipment. The cost of a box of lemons from the tree to the railroad is +about thirty-five cents. + +Thousands of car-loads are shipped to the Eastern and Middle states, +while the Pacific Coast is a never-failing market. + +Small, imperfect, and bruised fruit goes to the citric acid factory +near the packing-houses. From these oil of lemon, lemon sugar, and +clear green citric-acid crystals are made, and the crushed waste is +returned to the grove and ploughed in about the trees as a fertilizer. + + + + +FLOWERS AND PLANTS + + +"When California was wild," says John Muir, "it was one sweet +bee-garden throughout its entire length, and from the snowy Sierra to +the ocean." + +There were so many yellow poppies in this great unfenced garden, that +the Spanish sailing along the coast called it the "Land of Fire" from +the golden flowers covering the hills. Near Pasadena, in Southern +California, these poppy fields may still be seen glowing so brightly +in the sun that you do not wonder at the name "Cape Las Flores," or +Flower Cape, which the sailors also gave to this part of the country. + +[Illustration: IN A MISSION GARDEN.] + +[Illustration: A CHRISTMAS GARDEN.] + +The poppy is our best-known wild flower, planted by Mother Nature +before white men ever visited these shores. When the Spanish +settled here they called the poppy _copa de oro_, or cup of gold. +The gold hunters spoke of it as the California gold flower, and sent +the pressed poppies home in their letters. But its correct name is +the Eschscholtzia (esh-sholt'si-a), from the name of a German +botanist and naturalist, who studied the plant and wrote about it +almost a hundred years ago. + +From February to May the poppies are most plentiful, but a few may be +found almost every month in the year. Have you noticed the finely cut +green leaves, and the pointed green nightcap that covers each bud till +the morning sunshine coaxes off the cap and unfolds the four satiny +golden petals? The flowers love the sun and close up on dark, cloudy +days, or if brought into the house. But put them in a sunny window the +next morning, and you may watch the cups of gold open to the light. + +Some of the poppies are a deep orange-color, while others are a pale +yellow. And as you walk through the fields you may pick a hundred at +each step, so thick do the plants grow. The wild bees find a yellow +dust called pollen or "bee-bread" in the poppy, the same golden powder +that rubs off on your nose, when you put it too close to this cup of +gold or to lilies. + +Then in this "unfenced garden" were also the baby blue-eyes, whose +pretty pale-blue blossoms come early in the spring, each one with a +drop of honey at the foot of its honey path, as the black lines on its +petals are called. + +Can you name twenty kinds of wild flowers? Around San Francisco and +the bay counties you will count, after the poppy and baby blue-eyes, +the shining yellow buttercup, the blue and yellow lupines that grow in +the sand, the tall thistle whose sharp, prickly leaves and thorny +red blossoms spell "Let-me-alone," the blue flag-lilies and red +paint-brush, yellow cream-cups, and wild mustard, and an orange +pentstemon. These with many yellow compositæ or flowers like the +dandelion, you will find growing on the windy hills and dry, sunny +places. Hiding away in quiet corners are the blue-eyed grass, and +a wild purple hyacinth, the scarlet columbine swinging its golden +tassels, shy blue larkspur, a small yellow sunflower, and wild pink +roses. Among the ferns in shady, wet nooks are white trilliums and a +delicate pink bleeding-heart, while the wild blue violets and yellow +pansies love the warm, rocky hillside. + +Mariposas, or butterfly tulips of many colors, grow in the foot-hills +and mountains. Perhaps our most beautiful wild flowers are the lilies, +of which we have over a dozen kinds. In the redwood forests there is a +tall, lovely pink lily, and many brown-spotted yellow tiger-lilies. Up +in the mountain pines a snowy white Washington lily sometimes covers +a mountain side with its tall stems bearing dozens of sweet waxen +blossoms. In the wet, swampy places bright red, and many small orange +lilies bloom in late summer. + +In the high Sierras are found strange and pretty blossoms unlike +the flowers of valleys and sea-coast. There you will see the +mountain-heather with pink, purple, or dainty white bells, the +goldenrod, and gentians blue as the sky. Strangest of all is the +snow-plant. This curious thing sends up a thick, fleshy spike a foot +or so in height and set closely with bright scarlet flowers. It grows +where the snow has just melted round the fir trees, and leaf, stem, +and blossom are all the same glowing red. + +Most of the valley and coast wild-flowers bloom and ripen their seeds +before the dry summer begins. Such plants die and wither away in the +heat, but their seeds are safe on the warm ground till fall rains soak +the earth and set them growing again. In the high mountains a thick +blanket of snow covers the sleeping seeds till May or June, and then +sunshine wakes them once more. + +[Illustration: "WAWONA" (28 feet in diameter).] + +[Illustration: THE GRIZZLY GIANT (33 feet in diameter).] + +No doubt you have seen many of our shrubs or tall bush-plants in your +vacations. Do you remember the sweet creamy white azaleas and the +buckeyes that grow along the creeks in the redwoods? And the feathery +blue blossoms of the wild lilac crowding in close thickets up +the hillsides? One of our shrubs is a holiday visitor, the +Christmas-berry, whose bright-red clusters trim your house at that +gay, happy season. The manzanita is another pretty bush, with pink +bells that ripen to small scarlet apples in the fall. + +Usually, these and other shrubs cover the hillsides with a thick, +matted tangle of stems and branches almost impossible to get through. +This chaparral, as the Spanish called it, clothes the foot-hills and +mountain sides with a close growth through which deer and bears alone +can travel and make trails or runways. Great stretches of buckthorn in +the north, and of sage-brush in the south, cover the wild lands, while +in the sandy desert tall, prickly cactus, yucca, and mesquite grow +with the sage-brush in the blazing sun. + +Only a few of California's wild plants and flowers have been now +called to your notice. But children have sharp eyes, and you will +find many more to inquire about in your vacation days. Then +the blackberries and thimble-berries will be ripe, and the pink +salmon-berry in the redwoods. Perhaps you will look for and dig up the +soaproot, that onion-like bulb of one of the lily family with which +the Indians make a soapy lather to wash their clothes. Let us hope +you will know and keep away from the "poison-oak," the low bush with +pretty red leaves, for its leaves are apt to make your skin swell up +and blister wherever they touch you. + +What a long and pleasant story might be told you of our state's real +gardens! Perhaps your teacher will give you an hour to talk about your +home gardens, and to see how much you can tell about them. You may +have flowers the year round, if you live on the coast, or in the warm +valleys where no Jack Frost comes with his icy breath to kill the +tender plants. In such genial climates roses and geraniums bloom all +year, and only rest when the gardener cuts them back; and most of the +shrubs and trees in parks and gardens are always fresh and green. + +Florists who raise flowers to sell find that here they can grow the +choicest and finest carnations, roses, and all the garden blossoms you +know so well. Many of these florists deal only in flower-seeds, and +bulbs or roots of the lilies to send to the Eastern states or abroad, +where people greatly prize California flowers. + +Plants and trees from all parts of the world thrive here, also. You +have seen the palms, the tall sword-palm with its great spike of snowy +bloom in the spring, the fan-palm whose dried and trimmed leaves +are really used for fans, and, perhaps, the date-palm. This tree +was planted round the Missions by the Padres, and some, more than +a hundred years old, are still standing at the San Gabriel Mission. +These, and the magnolia with its large creamy blossoms, as well as the +graceful pepper-tree, are natives of warm, southern lands, while the +eucalyptus, or gum-tree, was brought here from Australia. + +Look round, children, as you walk to and from school, or in the park, +and try to know and name the green things growing there, the flowers +and plants sent to make our world a pleasant place to live in. + + + + +THE BIG TREES AND LUMBERING + + +The largest trees in the world are those forest giants of California +which grow on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevadas, and nowhere +else on the globe. People carelessly call these grand trees "redwoods" +or "big trees," but their family name is Sequoia, an Indian chief's +name. When the trees were first discovered, in 1853, accounts of their +height and size were sent to England. Supposing this giant to be a new +tree, it was there christened _Wellingtonia_, and also _gigantea_ +for its immense measurements. While Americans were trying to have it +called _Washingtonia_, a famous Frenchman who knew all about trees +decided that the specimen sent him was certainly a sequoia, as named +by a German professor some six years before this time. So the tree was +called _sequoia gigantea_ and quietly went on growing, unmindful of +the four nations who had quarrelled over its christening. Why, indeed, +should it bother its lofty head with the chatter of people whose +countries were unknown when this mighty tree was full grown? For +these sequoias are the oldest of living objects and have probably been +growing for four thousand years. How do we know this? Well, when a +fallen trunk is sawed across, one can see rings in the wood, and it is +thought that each ring is a year's growth. John Muir counted over four +thousand of these annual rings on the stump of one of the Kings River +trees. + +These fine old trees grow in groves, and of the nine or ten groves +the Calaveras and Mariposa are the best known. The Calaveras group of +nearly a hundred mighty trees was the first one discovered, and four +trees here are over three hundred feet high. The fallen "Father of +the Forest" must have been much higher, for it measures a hundred feet +round its trunk at the root end. A man can ride on horseback for two +hundred feet through its hollow trunk as it lies on the ground. Many +of the standing trees hollowed out by fires are large enough, used as +cabins, to live in. + +The Mariposa grove of Big Trees, being not far from Yosemite Valley, +is the best known, as thousands of tourists visit both places. There +is a big tree at Mariposa for every day in the year, and two very +wonderful ones, the Grizzly Giant and Wawona. Stage-coaches drive into +the grove through the tree Wawona, which was bored and burned out +so as to make an opening ten by twelve feet. A wall of wood ten feet +thick on each side of this opening supports the living tree. The great +Grizzly Giant towers a hundred feet without a branch, and twice that +height above the first immense branches that are six feet through. +This was, no doubt, an old tree when Columbus discovered America, yet +it is alive and green and still growing. + +The largest tree in the world is the General Sherman, in Sequoia +National Park, and it is thirty-five feet in diameter. This means that +the stump of the tree, if smoothed off, would make a floor on which +thirty people might dance, or your whole class be seated. You can +scarcely imagine what a mighty column such a tree is, with its rich +red-brown bark, fluted like a column, too, and with its crown of +feathery green branches and foliage. The bark is a foot or two thick. +The trees are evergreens, and conifers, or cone-bearers. Sequoia cones +are two or three inches long and full of small seeds. The Douglas +squirrel gets most of these seeds, but there are still seedlings and +saplings or young trees enough to keep the race alive in most of the +groves. + +These groves of wonderful and rare trees are protected as National +Parks in the Sequoia and Grant groves, and Mariposa belongs to the +state. It is against the law to cut the trees in those groves. Their +worst enemy is fire, and a troop of cavalry is sent every year to +guard them, and to keep out the sheep-herders, whose flocks would +destroy the underbrush and young trees. But, unfortunately, lumbermen +have put up mills near the Fresno and Kings River groups, and, wasting +more than they use, are destroying magnificent trees thousands of +years old in order to make shingles. When nature has taken such good +care of this rare and wonderful tree, the Sierra Giant, men should try +to preserve the groves unharmed in all their beauty. + +Another _sequoia_ grows in great forests along the Coast Range from +Santa Cruz to the northern state-line, and beyond into Oregon. This +is the _sequoia sempervirens_, the Latin name meaning always green. +Redwood is its common name, and the lumber for our frame or wooden +houses is cut from this tree. Millions of feet of this redwood lumber +are shipped from the northern counties of the state every year, up +to Alaska or down to Central and South America. It is also sent far +across the Pacific to the Hawaiian and Philippine islands and to China +and Australia. + +While the _sequoia gigantea_ delights in a clear sky and hot sunshine, +its brother, the _sempervirens_, prefers a cool sea-coast climate, +offering frequent baths of fog. There is also a difference in the size +of these trees; the redwood is often three hundred feet high, but +is less in girth than its relative in the Sierras. There is not much +underbrush and little sunshine in the cool, green redwood forests, +each tree rising tall and stately for a hundred feet without branches, +while the green tops seem almost to touch the sky as one looks up. +Through the woods one hears the blue jay scream and chatter, and the +tap, tap of the woodpecker as he drills holes in the bark to fill with +acorns for his winter store. + +When the lumberman looks at these beautiful forests, he sees only many +logs containing many thousand feet of lumber, which he must get out +the easiest and cheapest way. He only chooses the finest and largest +trunks, and there is great waste in cutting these. The men begin +to saw the tree some eight or ten feet from the ground, and soon it +trembles and falls with a mighty crash, often snapping off other trees +in its way to the ground. After all the selected trees have fallen, +fires are started to burn off the branches and underbrush so that the +men can work easier. This fire only chars the outside bark of the big, +green logs, but it kills all the young saplings, and leaves the once +beautiful forest a waste of blackened logs and gray ashes. When the +fire burns itself out, the logs are usually sawed with a cross-cut saw +into sixteen-foot lengths, since in that form they are easy to handle. +Then oxen or horses haul them out; or sometimes a wire cable is +fastened to them by iron "dogs," or stakes, and a little stationary +engine pulls them away to the siding at the railroad track. Here they +are rolled on flat-cars, fastened with a big iron chain around the +four or six logs on the car, and taken on the logging train to the +mill-pond. They lie soaking in the water until drawn up to the keen +saws of the sawmill that cut and slice the wood like cheese. The bark +and outside is carved off as you would cut the crust off bread, and +then sharp, circular saws cut boards and planks till the log is used +up, and the log-carriage lifts another to its place. As the shining +steel bites into the wood the noise almost deafens you and the mill +shakes with the thunder of log-carriage and feeders. Useless ends, +slabs, and refuse are burnt in the sawdust pit, where the fires never +go out. Very much of the tree is wasted and all the limbs. The redwood +tree has so much life and strength, however, that it sends up bright +green sprouts around the burnt stump, and standing trees charred +outside to the tops will have new branches the next season. In the +older forests tall young trees are often seen growing in a ring round +an empty spot, the long-dead stump having rotted away. + +[Illustration: BIG TREES AT FELTON, SANTA CRUZ CO.] + +Near Santa Cruz is a grove of large and beautiful redwoods, many +of the trees being over three hundred feet high and from forty +to sixty-five feet around the base of the trunk. The Giant is the +largest, and three other immense ones are named for Generals Grant, +Sherman, and Fremont. In 1846 General Fremont found this grove, and +camped, on a rainy winter night, in the hollow trunk of the tree +bearing his name. Here is also seen a group of eleven very tall trees +growing in a circle around an old stump. + +In the Sierras, both in the _sequoia_ groves and forests above the +Big-Tree region, are very large sugar-pines, red firs, and yellow-pine +trees, all of which make excellent lumber. Great forests of these +trees, with cedars almost as large as the redwoods, are in the +northern counties also. You may have seen sugar-pine cones which are +over a foot long, the largest of all found, while redwood cones are +the smallest. Another great tree is the Douglas spruce, the king of +spruce trees, growing in both Sierra Nevada and Coast ranges. + +The California laurel, or bay tree, with its beautiful, shining green +leaves, and the madroño, the slender, red-barked tree on the hillsides +you must have noticed in your trips to the country, as well as our +fine valley and mountain oaks. Try to learn the kinds of trees and +study their leaves, blossoms, and fruit, and you will find every one +a friend well worth knowing. Then you will wish to save them from fire +and the lumberman's axe, especially the rare and old _sequoias_. + + + + +OUR BIRDS + + +More than three hundred kinds of these dear feathered friends and +visitors live in California. Along the sea-shore, in the great valleys +and the mountain-forests and meadows, even in the dry, hot desert, the +birds, our shy and merry neighbors, are at home. In many parts of +the state they find sunshine and green trees the year round, and food +always at hand. Yet sparrows, robins, and woodpeckers will stay in the +snowed-in groves of the Sierras all winter, contentedly chirping or +singing in spite of the bitter cold. + +If you know these wanderers of wood and field, these birds of sea and +shore, and their interesting habits, you will wish to protect them +from stone or gun, and their nests from the egg collector. You will +listen to the lark and linnet, and be glad that the happy songster +trilling such sweet notes is free to fly where he wishes, and is +not pining in a cage. And you, little girl, will not encourage the +destruction of these pretty creatures by wearing a sea-gull or part of +some dead bird on your hat. + +To become better acquainted with birds, let us call them before us by +classes, beginning with our sea-birds and those round the bays and on +the coast. Some of these not only swim but dive in the salt waters, +and to this class of divers belong the grebe, loon, murre, and puffin. +They dive at the flash of a gun, and after what seems a long time, +come up far away from the spot the hunter aimed at. These birds +usually nest on bare, rocky cliffs near the ocean, or on islands like +the Farallones, and their large green eggs hatch out nestlings that +are ugly and awkward and helpless on land. But they ride the great +ocean-breakers, or dive into their clear depths easily and gracefully; +and as they live upon fish or small sea-creatures, the divers only +seek land to roost at night and to raise their young. + +Next come the gulls, who belong to a class known as "long-winged +swimmers." They have strong wings and fly great distances, and with +their webbed feet swim well, too. Most of the sea-gulls are white with +a gray coat on their backs, but they look snowy-white as they fly. You +may see them walking about the wharves, or perching on roofs and piles +watching for food, and seeming very tame as they pick up bits of bread +or the refuse floating in the water. They follow steamers for miles, +scarcely moving their wings as they float in the air; and if you throw +a cracker from the deck, some gull will make a swift swoop and snatch +it before the cracker reaches the water. + +Far out on the Pacific the albatross sails proudly on his broad wings, +and cares nothing for high winds or storms. He rests and sleeps on the +billows at night with his little companions, the stormy petrels. He is +the largest and strongest of our birds of flight, the very king of the +sea. The stormy petrels are not much larger than a swallow. Sailors +call them. "Mother Carey's chickens," and are sure a storm is +coming up when petrels follow the ship. The albatross, petrel, and +a gull-like bird called a shearwater belong to the "tube-nosed +swimmers," on account of their curious long beaks. + +Along the coast, and wading in the shallow waters around the bays, are +some strange birds known as pelicans and shags. They are good fishers, +and drive the darting, finny fellows before them as they wade in the +water till they can see and gobble them up. Most waders have under +their beaks a skin-pocket deep enough to hold a fish while carrying +it to their nestlings, or making ready to swallow it. All of these +sea-birds raise their young as far from the shore and from hunters +as possible. Great flocks of them roost on islands fifteen or twenty +miles out in the ocean, and fly into the bays every morning. + +Wild ducks, geese, the herons, mud-hens, sandpipers, and curlews are +marsh and shore birds that feed and wade in the shallow salt water, +and nest on the banks or, like the heron, in trees near the bay. The +heron is a frog-catcher, and he will stand very still on his long legs +and patiently wait till the frog, thinking him gone, swims near. Then +one dart of the long bill captures froggy, and the heron waits for +another. You know the red-head, green mallard, canvas-back, and small +teal ducks, no doubt, and have seen the flocks of wild geese flying +and calling in the sky, or standing like patches of snow as they feed +in the marshes or grain-fields. + +Down on the mud-flats at low tide you see birds called rails, and also +"kill-dee" plovers. The shoveller ducks are there, too fishing up with +broad, flat beaks little crabs and such creatures as are in the mud, +straining out mud and water, but swallowing the rest. All these birds +are "waders" and delight in mud and cold salt water. They are usually +quiet, or make only strange, shrill cries. + +In the sunny fields and woods we shall find many of the land-birds, +and first comes a family whose habits are so like those of chickens +that they are called "scratchers." These birds depend for food upon +seeds and bugs or worms they scratch out of the ground. Up in +the Sierra sugar-pines and fir-woods lives the largest of these +"scratchers," the brown grouse. He is a shy creature, rising out of +his feeding-ground with a great whirring of wings and out of sight +before the hunter can fire at him. His peculiar cry, or "drumming," as +it is called, sounds through the woods like tapping hard on a hollow +log. His equally shy neighbor is the mountain-quail, while through +the farming lands and all along the hillsides the valley--quail are +plenty. Perhaps you have seen a happy family of these speckled brown +birds. Papa quail has a black crest on his head, and he calls "Look +right here" from the wrong side of the road to fool you, while Mamma +and her little, cunning chicks scatter like flying brown leaves in the +brush. After the danger is past, you hear her low call to bring them +round her again. In the desert and sage-brush part of the state the +sage-hen, another "scratcher," runs swiftly through the thickets, but +many are caught and brought in by the Indians. + +Our birds of prey are eagles, vultures, hawks, owls, and the +turkey-buzzards, those big black scavengers that hang in the air. In +circles high above woods and fields some of these birds of prey sweep +on broad wings, searching with keen sight for their food in some dead +animal far below. The California condor, a great black vulture-like +bird, is almost extinct, and is only found in the highest mountains. +It is very large of wing, and strong enough, it is said, to carry off +a sheep. Both golden and bald eagles nest in tall trees in the wildest +parts of the state. The chicken-hawk, whose swift sailing over the +poultry-yard calls out loud squawking from the frightened hens, +you have often seen, and the wise-looking brown owls, too. A small +burrowing owl lives in the squirrel holes, and you may catch him +easily in the daytime, when he cannot see. + +The road-runner is of the cuckoo family of birds. It seldom flies, but +runs swiftly along the roads, or in the desert, and is said to kill +rattlesnakes by placing a ring of thorny cactus leaves around the +snake as it lies asleep. The rattler is then pecked to death, since it +cannot get out of its prickly cage. This fowl is like a slender brown +hen in size. + +In the redwoods you hear the tap, tap, of the "carpenter" woodpecker, +with his black coat and gay red cap. He drills holes in the bark of a +tree with his strong beak and then fits an acorn neatly into each safe +little storehouse. It is thought that worms and grubs fatten while +living in these acorns, so that the woodpecker always has a meal ready +in the winter when the ground is wet, or the squirrels have carried +off the acorns under the trees. + +Humming-birds, or "hummers," as the boys call them, are plenty in city +and country and so fearless that they will take a bath in the spray +of the garden-hose, or dart their long bills in the fuchsias almost +within your reach. The bill shields a double tongue, which gets not +only honey, but small insects from the flower or off the leaves. The +humming-bird's tiny nest is a soft, round basket, not much bigger than +half a walnut-shell, and holding two eggs, which are like small-white +beans. Bits of moss and gray cobwebs are woven in this nest till it +looks like the branch itself; and here the little mother in her plain +brown dress hatches out and feeds the baby "hummers." Her husband has +glistening ruby feathers at his throat and green spots on his head and +back that glow in the sun like jewels. + +The highest class of birds is the "perchers," and many friends of +yours belong to this. There are two families, however, of perchers, +those that call and the song-birds. Calling over and over their +peculiar note, the pewees, flycatchers, and king-birds, fly through +the forests. The crow and blue jay belong to the singers, you will +be surprised to hear. And what a crowd of these song-birds there +are trilling and warbling in the sunshine! Have you ever watched the +meadow-lark singing as he sits on guard on the fence, while the rest +of his brown-coated yellow-vested flock run along the field picking up +seeds and insects? + +Then there are the linnets, or "redheads," who sing their sweet, +merry tunes all summer, and if they do take a cherry or two the farmer +should not grumble. They destroy many bugs and caterpillars and eat +weed-seeds that might trouble the fruit-grower more than the missing +cherries. The yellow warbler, sometimes called the wild canary, flits +through bush and tree and trills its gay notes in town and country. +Song-sparrows, thrushes, and bluebirds warble far and near, while the +red-winged blackbird makes music in wet, swampy places. The robin, +who comes to city gardens in the winter, has a summer home in the +mountains or redwoods. There, too, the saucy jay screams and chatters, +and flashes his blue wings as he flies, scolding all the time. + +In Southern California, among the orange groves or in gardens, the +mocking-bird trills in sweet, liquid notes his wonderful song. He +mimics, too, many sounds he hears, and sometimes when caged will +whistle tunes or say words. The mocker can crow or cackle like the +chickens, or mew like the cat. Then he will whistle clear and loud +till dogs or boys answer his call. When they find themselves fooled, +it is said, he mimics a laugh. + +From April to July the birds are busy, nesting, feeding their +families, or teaching them to fly. Many eggs never hatch, and some +are destroyed by wild animals. Boys often rob a whole nest to have one +little blown egg in their collections. Then again the mother is killed +and her brood starves to death. When the parent birds are teaching the +nestlings to fly, cats also catch the little ones. So you see the poor +feathered things have many enemies. + +Let us try to protect the birds, and to let them live happy lives +in freedom. Each one will thank you, either with sweet songs or with +being a beautiful thing to see on land or ocean. + +[Illustration: YOUNG TOWHEE.] + +[Illustration: BABY YELLOW WARBLERS. From photographs by Elizabeth +Grinnell.] + + + + +OUR WILD ANIMALS + + +Once upon a time, when the Spanish owned this state and called it +their province of Alta California, there were great herds of antelope +feeding on the grassy plains, and at every little stream elk and deer +and big grizzly bears came down to drink. No fences had been built, +and the wild animals had never heard a rifle-shot. Free and fearless +they ranged valley and hillside, or made their dens in the thick +brush, or "chaparral," as the Spanish called it. + +Indian hunters watched the paths over which these wild creatures +travelled to water, and killed deer and antelope with their arrows. +But these hunters were afraid of grizzly bears, for an arrow in Mr. +Bear's thick hide only made him cross, and with one hug, or even a +light blow from his paw, he could cripple the poor Indian. So in those +early days the old bears came year after year, and carried off sheep +and cattle. The simple folks did not even try to kill them. Indeed, +many of the red men believed that very bad Indians were punished by +being turned into grizzly bears when they died, and they would not +hurt their brothers, they said. + +When Father Serra's Mission people were starving at Monterey, the +Padre learned that at a place called Bear Valley near by, there were +many grizzlies which the Indians would not kill. He sent Spanish +soldiers there, and they shot so many bears that the hungry Mission +family had meat enough to last till a ship came from Mexico with +supplies. + +Of all flesh-eating animals this grizzly bear is the largest and +strongest. He can knock down a bull with his great paws, or kill and +carry off a horse. He can live on wild berries and acorns with grass +and roots he digs out of the ground, yet fresh meat suits him best, +and he prefers a calf, which he holds as a cat does a mouse. + +Nothing but stock was raised in California in those days so long +ago, and cattle were counted by the thousands and sheep by tens of +thousands. Then the grizzly and cinnamon, or brown, bear feasted all +the time on stray calves and yearlings. Every spring and fall the +cattle, which had roamed almost wild in the pastures, were "rounded +up" by the cowboys, or vaqueros. After the work of picking out each +ranchero's stock and branding the young cattle was over, the vaqueros +thought it fine fun to lasso a bear,--some old fellow, perhaps, +who had been helping himself to the calves. It is told that one big +cinnamon bear, while quietly feeding on acorns, looked up to find +three or four cow-boys on their ponies in a circle around him. They +spurred the trembling ponies as close to him as they dared, and yelled +at the tops of their voices. The great brute sat up on his haunches +and faced them, growling and snarling. One vaquero sent his rope +flying through the air, and the loop settled over a big, hairy fore +paw. Then the bear dropped on all fours and made a jump at the pony, +which got out of his reach. Another Mexican threw a lasso and caught +the bear's hind foot; and as he sat up again a third noose dropped +over the other fore paw. Then the poor trapped creature, growling, +snarling, and rolling over and over, began a tug of war with the +lariats and the ponies. Once a rope broke, and horse and rider tumbled +in front of the bear. He made a quick, savage jump, but was pulled +back by the other ropes. Then Mr. Bear sat up straight and tugged so +hard that another lariat broke and sent the saddle and rider over the +pony's head. With one sweep of his paw the bear smashed the saddle, +but the cow-boy saved himself by running to an oak tree. At last Mr. +Bear was getting the best of the fight so plainly, and had pulled the +frightened ponies so near him, that the man who was thrown off ended +the poor animal's struggles with a rifle-ball. + +A Chinese sheep-herder tells this funny story about a bear: "Me lun +out, see what matta; me see sheep all bely much scared, bely much lun, +bely much jump. Big black bear jump over fence, come light for me. Me +so flighten me know nothin', then me scleam e-e-e-e so loud, and lun +at bear till bear get scared too and lun away." + +A few grizzlies are still found in the Sierras, and black and brown +bears are often seen with their playful little cubs. The small +fellows are easily tamed and may be taught many tricks. They will live +contentedly in a bear-pit, or even if chained up, and as most of you +know, they like peanuts and pop-corn well enough to beg for them. + +The panther, or mountain-lion, is another large flesh-eating animal +which makes his home in the thick woods conveniently neighboring the +farmers' corrals and pastures. Not long ago a boy in Marin County, +who was sent to look after some ponies, saw a big yellow dog, as he +thought, "worrying" one of the colts. When he came nearer he found +it was a wicked-looking, catlike creature, and knew it must be a +California lion. He had nothing with him but a heavy whip. The panther +left the wounded colt and crouched ready to spring at the boy, but he +was on the alert and struck it a terrible blow across the eyes with +his whip, and then another and another. Half-blinded and whining with +pain, the panther turned tail and ran away, while the boy's pony, +trembling and snorting with fright, galloped home with his brave +rider. + +In one of the mountain counties a woman, hearing her chickens +squawking one day at noon, ran out to find what seemed a big dog among +them with a hen in his mouth. She rushed straight at him with a broom, +when the animal turned. She found it was a great panther, who snarled +and made ready to spring at her. As she screamed and started to run +away, her foot slipped on a steep and muddy place, and she slid down +the little hill right into the panther's face. He was so frightened +that he jumped the fence and hurried to the woods. + +This great yellow cat is both savage and cowardly, and he has been +known to follow a man walking through the woods, all day, yet he +sneaked out of sight at every loud call the man gave. He chases deer +and gets many small and helpless fawns, hunters say. + +Fur-hunting was once a profitable business for the Indians, who were +clothed in bear and panther skins when the first white men came to +California, and had many furs to trade or sell. The Indians trapped +otters, beavers, and minks, and the squaws tanned the deer-hides to +make buckskin shirts or leggings. Hunters and trappers still bring in +these wild animals' furry coats after trips to the high mountains or +untravelled woods, where the shy creatures try to live and be safe +from their enemies. + +In early days herds of a very large deer, called elk, fed on the wild +oats and grass. These elk had wide, branching horns measuring three +or four feet from tip to tip. Only a few of them now survive in the +redwood forests in the northern counties. There were plenty of them +once where San Francisco now stands. Dana in his book called "Two +Years Before the Mast," tells us that when his ship dropped anchor off +the little village of Yerba Buena about sixty-seven years ago, he saw +hundreds of red deer and elk with their branching antlers. They were +running about on the hills, or standing still to look at the ship +until the noise frightened them off. At that time the whole country +was covered with thick trees and bushes where the wolf and coyote +prowled, and the grizzly bear's track was seen everywhere. + +[Illustration: CALIFORNIA RED DEER. From a photograph by George V. +Robinson.] + +There are plenty of deer in the redwoods now, and in the high +Sierras are black-tailed and large mule-deer. In the woods round Mount +Tamalpais timid red deer live, too. In winter, when it is cold and +snowy in the northern counties of our state, these deer often come +into the farmer's barnyard to nibble at the hay. + +There are still left in the mountains among the pines and snowy cliffs +many mountain-sheep. These curious big-horned animals resemble both +the elk and the sheep, and it is said they can jump from a high rock +and land far below on their feet or heavy, twisted horns without being +hurt in the least. + +Of all the great herds of graceful, fast-running antelope, once the +most plentiful of our wild animals, only a very few can now be found +on the eastern slopes of the Sierras. + +But Master Coyote, who might well be spared, so cruel and cowardly is +he, still sneaks up and down the whole state, and his quick sharp bark +gives notice that the rascal is ready to steal a chicken or a lamb if +it is not protected. With his bushy tail and large head he is half fox +and half wolf in appearance, and mean enough in habits to be both. He +can outrun a dog and even a deer, and though he catches jack-rabbits +and the Molly Cottontail usually for food, he would help his brother, +the wolf, to kill a poor harmless sheep. + +This gray wolf is a savage creature and hides in the thick forests by +day, slinking out at night to the nearest sheep corral or turkey-pen +if he can find one unwatched by some faithful dog. His friend and +neighbor, the fox, likes fat geese and chickens as well as birds, +squirrels, and wood-rats. The queer raccoon lives in the redwoods and +is often caught and kept in a cage or chained for a pet. + +Wildcats, both gray and yellow, are found in the thickly timbered +parts of California, and the badger makes his home in the mountain +cañons or pine woods. There, too, the curious porcupine dwells. He is +covered with grayish white quills, which bristle out when he is angry +or frightened. No old dog will touch this animal, for he knows better +than to get a mouthful of sharp toothpicks by biting Mr. Porcupine, +who is like a round pincushion with the pins pointing out. A dog who +has never seen this prickly ball will dab at it, and have a sore paw +to nurse for weeks after. + +Two or three kinds of tree-squirrels live in the pines and redwoods, +the Douglas squirrel being well known in the mountains. The ground +squirrel, or chipmunk, digs holes in the ground, where he hides his +winter's store of grain and nuts. + +Three of our smaller wild animals are very common and very troublesome +to the farmer. The skunk, which looks like a pretty black and white +kitten with a bushy tail, and also the weasel, destroy all the +chickens and eggs they can reach, and they are so cunning that it is +hard to keep them out of the hen-house. That little pest, the gopher, +we are all well acquainted with, since he gnaws the pinks and roses +off at their roots in your city garden while his large family of +brothers and sisters kill the farmer's fruit-trees and vines. The +gopher digs long tunnels under ground, making storerooms here and +there in these passages, which he fills with grass, roots, and seeds. +In each cheek he has a pouch, or pocket, large enough to hold nearly a +handful of grain, so the little rascal carries his stores very easily. +The traps and poison by which the farmer is always trying to make way +with him, he is sly enough to let alone. His greatest foe is the +cat, which watches patiently at the hole where the destructive little +fellow is digging and usually catches him. A mother cat will sometimes +bring in two or three gophers a day to her kittens. + + + + +IN SALT WATER AND FRESH + + +Tom and Retta Ransom were two of the happiest children in the state, +I believe, when told that their summer vacation was to be spent at +Catalina Island. To see the wonderful fish that swim in those warm, +Southern waters, to watch them through the glass-bottomed boat, to +dip out funny sea-flowers with a net, or catch the pretty kingfish and +perhaps a "yellowtail,"--why, they could talk of nothing else! + +How they skipped and danced and chattered about the trip! At +last Mamma said, "Well, everything is packed and ready, and we go +to-morrow." Then what fun it was to stand on the steamer's deck and +sail "right out through the Golden Gate," as Retta said. The big +green billows of the Pacific Ocean caught the boat as she crossed the +outside bar and tossed salt spray almost into their faces. Little the +children cared for the drops of water, for they were so glad to be +off on their trip and to say good-by to San Francisco's summer fog and +cold winds for a time. + +And there on Seal Rocks, near the Cliff House, were the seals, or +rather sea-lions, clumsy creatures like black rubber sacks with +fins, or flippers, and a head. Some were lying in the sun and others +crawling up the steep, wet rocks. Those highest up were asleep and +quiet, but most of them kept barking or growling as they tried to find +a sunny place to bask in. Sometimes when frightened these sea-lions +will pitch headlong from high rocks into the ocean and dive out of +sight at once. Mrs. Ransom said she remembered seeing one that was +kept for years in a salt-water tank, and that, although they seem so +clumsy, this sea-lion jumped so quick that he caught a fish thrown to +him before it touched the water. Once fur-seals were in great numbers +off our coast, and lived on the rocks as these sea-lions now do. But +Indians, or later on white hunters, killed them, or drove them up +north where the crack of the rifle is not heard. + +On to the south the steamer sailed through the foaming waters, and as +Tom stood watching the white-capped waves go dancing by, he saw, two +or three times, a black fin come up, and then another. At last a man +said, "Look at the porpoises playing." Tom screamed with delight as +they jumped and chased each other till their black, shiny backs were +clear out of water. These fish are sometimes called sea-hogs and are +five or six feet long. Either to get their food of small fish, or in +play, they keep swimming and diving near the tops of the breakers. +Fishermen catch them with a strong hook and use the thick, leathery +skin for straps or strings, while they try oil out of their blubber or +fat. + +All that day and night the boat kept steadily on her way, and the next +morning they were in Santa Barbara Channel. It was so pleasant sailing +on this summer sea in the soft, warm sunshine that even the sea-sick +ladies felt better and came on deck. Mamma agreed with the children +that the steamer trip was much nicer than the hot, dusty cars. Just +then some one called, "See the whale," and looking quick Tom and Retta +saw what seemed a fountain of water rising high in the air about half +a mile away. Soon another went up, and two or three more, for the +gray hump-backed whales like this stretch of smooth bay. They are +warm-blooded animals and not fish at all, so they must come to the top +of the waves for air to breathe. The air and water spout out through +"blow-holes" on top of the whale's head, and rise like steam in the +colder air. The children's mother told them that the whale is the +largest of all animals, and that it lives on little jellyfish. It swims +with its great mouth wide open and catches all the tiny sea creatures +in its path. A fringe of whalebone hangs down from the roof of the +whale's mouth, and he strains the water out through this and swallows +the fish. As the boat went on, the children said, "There she blows," +as the sailors do when they see whales spouting in the distance. + +[Illustration: LEAPING TUNA.] + +[Illustration: BLACK SEA BASS.] + +Late that night the steamer got to San Pedro, and you may be sure Tom +and Retta were up early the next morning. As they came off the +boat, there was a crowd of people on the wharf who were pulling in +"yellow-tail" as fast as they dropped their lines. This fine fish is +a little like a big salmon, but with golden-yellow fins and tail. Its +body is greenish gray, with spots of the prettiest rainbow colors, +which grow brighter as the fish dies. These fish bite easily, but as +soon as caught begin to rush back and forth, fighting and trying to +snap the line. + +The children here took a smaller steamer for the twenty-mile trip +across to Catalina Island, and on the way over they saw a whole +"school" of whales and a flight of flying-fishes. Yes, really and +truly, these little fish fly or sail through the air, for their fins +balance them like a parachute. They skim along ten or twelve feet +above the waves, and then drop in the water to rest, taking another +flight whenever their enemies, the porpoises, chase them. + +How happy the children were to land at the little town of Avalon, and +to know that they were to have a month at this beautiful place! They +hurried down to the beach and their first choice of amusements was the +glass-bottomed boat. These boats have "water-telescopes," which are +only clear glass set in boxed-in places. The glass seems to make the +ripples still, so that you can look down, down to the bottom of the +ocean, twenty or thirty feet below you. + +The boatman rowed the children out in the bay, where the water, now +green, now blue, was always clear as crystal. On the rocks and sand +at the bottom starfish and crabs crawled slowly along or clung to some +stone. The purple sea-urchins, queer round-shelled creatures covered +with thorny spines, crowded together, and the ugly toad-fish hid +in the green and brown seaweeds. Blue, purple, and rainbow-colored +jellyfish floated on top of the waters, while gold perch with red +and green sunfish swam through the seaweed "like parrots in some hot +country's woods," Retta thought. In the shallow places on the rocks +those curious sea-flowers, the anemones, looked like pink or green +cactus blossoms. The children never tired of the water-telescope in +all their stay at the island. + +At night the warm ocean waters seemed on fire, since they are full +of very tiny, soft-bodied creatures, each of which gives out a faint, +glowing light. Every day the fishermen brought in new and strange +fishes. The black sea-bass, heavier than the fisherman himself and +longer than he was tall, were wonderful, and they could hardly believe +that such big fish were caught with a rod and line. + +But the leaping tuna pleased Tom the most, since he thought it such +fun to watch them jump into the air like silver arrows after the +flying-fish. Not so large as the black bass, the tunas are strong +enough to tow a boat along when running with a hook. One will drag a +heavy launch through the water as if a tug had hold of it, and +will fight for hours, rushing and plunging till tired out. Then the +fisherman pulls him up to the boat and ends his struggles. + +Tom and Retta were fond of watching the curious fish and sea-plants +in the glass aquarium tanks on shore also, but their happiest time was +when they gathered shells on the beach. They never found out the names +of more than those of the limpet, turban, and scallop, though they +picked up baskets full of tiny pink and white beauties, all frail and +of many kinds. These shells were once the homes of sea mollusks, +as such soft, fleshy creatures are called. But to Tom and Retta the +shells were only pretty playthings, to be doll's dishes, or cups, or +pincushions, perhaps. + +One morning some fishermen saw a shark, and no one dared to go in +bathing for a few days. This great, savage, "man-eater" shark does not +often come north of the Gulf of California. Sometimes small ones are +caught with a hook and line off Catalina Island, and Tom was always +glad to see such sea-tigers destroyed. + +Of course the children did not want to go home, till at last Mrs. +Ransom explained to them that in the ocean and bay near San Francisco +there were odd fish and strange animals too. And so it turned out, for +in a day's fishing over at Sausalito Tom caught many silver smelt and +tomcod, with flat, ugly flounders, and a red, big-eyed rock-cod. The +frightened boy almost fell out of the boat, too, when he pulled in a +large sting-ray, or "stingaree," as the boatman called it. This queer +three-sided fish, with a sharp, bony sting in its back, flopped round +till the man cut the hook out, knocked its head till it was no longer +able to bite, and threw it overboard. These rays have to be fenced out +of the oyster-beds along the bay, since they have big mouths full +of such strong teeth that they crush an oyster, shell and all, and +destroy every one they can reach. + +Oysters are grown in great quantities in the oyster-beds along the bay +shore. The largest size, which are called "transplanted," are brought +from the East as very small or baby oysters and dropped into shallow +water, where they cling to rocks or brush-piles till grown. + +Tom also caught a perch, and clinging to it as he drew in his line +was a large, hard-shelled, long-clawed crab. Tom put the crab in the +basket, knowing well what delicious white meat was in the fellow's +legs and back. + +Clams that burrow deep in the mud and may be found at low tide, +by digging where their tell-tale bubble of air arises, and the odd +shrimps, so good to eat, the children already knew about. Chinese +fishermen catch shrimps in nets, dry them on the hillsides, and send +both dry meat and shells to China. They dry the meat of the abalone +also, and use the beautiful shells, which you have no doubt seen, for +carving into curios, or making into jewellery. + +A salt-water creature very destructive to shipping and the wharves is +the teredo, or ship-worm. This brown inch-long worm lives in wood +that is always under water, such as the bottoms of ships and the round +piles you see at the wharves. He hollows or bores out winding tunnels +in the wood with the sharp edge of his shell until the piles crumble +to pieces. This small animal would finally destroy the largest wooden +ship if sheets of copper were not put on the sides and keel to protect +it. + +When Retta saw Tom's basket of fish she said, "Well, I think the +fresh-water fishes much prettier. I am sure the rainbow and Dolly +Varden trout with their bright-colored spots, which we saw up in the +Truckee River and the mountain lakes last summer, were better to look +at and to eat than these sea monsters." Tom laughed and said, "Oh, +that was because you helped to catch some of those. Do you remember +the big black-spotted trout we saw in Lake Tahoe? And the little +speckled fellows we caught in that clear creek in the redwoods, and +how we wrapped them in wet paper and cooked them at our camp-fire? +I wish we could go up to the McCloud River, though, and see the baby +trout in the fish hatchery there." + +So their mother told them that the tiny trout eggs were kept in +troughs with clear, cold water running over them till they hatched +out. Then the little things, not half as long as a pin, were placed in +large tin cans and sent to stock brooks and lakes, and in a year or so +they grew big enough to catch. + +The most valuable of our food-fishes is the salmon, a large +silvery-sided salt-water fish that takes fresh-water journeys too. +For they swim up the rivers every year to lay their eggs in the clear, +cold streams, knowing, perhaps, that the salmon-fry, as the young are +called, will have fewer enemies away from the ocean. The salmon go +over a hundred miles up to the McCloud River to spawn, and will jump +or leap up small falls or rapids in their way. Indians spear many of +them, but a number go back to the ocean again. Thousands and thousands +of ocean salmon are caught along the northern coast and taken to +the canneries. There the fish are put into cans and cooked, and when +sealed up are sent all over the world. California salmon is eaten from +Iceland to India, and its preparation and sale give employment to many +people. + +[Illustration: HUMPBACK WHALE (57 feet long).] + +[Illustration: TROUT FROM LAKE TAHOE.] + + + + +ABOUT CALIFORNIA'S INDIANS + + +When the Spanish and English first landed on this part of the New +World's coast, they found the Indians who dwelt inland almost naked, +and living like wild animals on roots and seeds and acorns. The tribes +along the seashore, however, were good hunters and fishermen, and +those Indians along the Santa Barbara Channel and the islands near +by were a tall, fine-looking people, and the most intelligent of the +race. They had large houses and canoes, and clothed themselves in +sealskins. + +The Indians Drake saw near Point Reyes had fur coats, or cloaks, but +no other clothes. They brought him presents of shell money or wampum, +and of feather head-dresses and baskets. With their bows and arrows +they killed fish or deer or squirrels, and being very strong ran +swiftly after game. They seemed gentle and peaceable with the white +men and each other, and were sorry to have Drake sail away. + +In later years the Indians who lived here when the Mission Padres came +were stupid and brutish, because they knew nothing better. They were +lazy, dirty, and at first would not work. But the patient Padres +taught them to raise grain and fruit, to build their fine churches, +to weave cloth and blankets, and to tan leather for shoes, saddles, +or harness. But although the Indians learned to be good workmen, +they liked idleness, dancing, and feasting much better, and when the +Missions were given up the Indians soon went back to their former +habits. + +There were no distinct tribes among these Indians, and they had no +laws. Nor was there a king or chief over many natives. They lived +in small villages or rancherias, each having a name and ruled by a +captain. Each rancheria had its special place to hunt or fish, and had +to fight its own battles with the other families of Indians. + +The men did nothing but hunt and fish, or make bows, stone +arrow-heads, nets and traps for game. The women not only had to gather +grass seeds, acorns, and nuts or berries, but they had to do all the +field-work and carry the heavy burdens, usually with a baby strapped +in its basket above the load. In preparing food for cooking, these +mahalas, or squaws, put seed or acorns in a stone mortar and pounded +them to coarse meal or paste. Sometimes a grass-woven basket was +filled with water, and hot stones were thrown in till the water began +to boil. Then acorn or seed meal was put in and cooked into mush. This +meal, or that from wild oats, was also mixed into a dough and baked on +hot stones into bread. Game or fish was eaten raw, or broiled a little +on the coals of the camp-fire. + +The Indians got many deer, and one way of hunting them was to put the +head and hide of a deer over the hunter's head. The make-believe then +crept along in the high grass till near enough to the quietly feeding +animals to put an arrow through one or more. All the streams were +full of fish then, and salmon swarmed in rivers that ran to the ocean. +These salmon the Indians speared or shot with arrows. They also built +runways or fish-weirs and made them so that the fish would become +crowded into a narrow passage, and could easily be dipped out with +nets or baskets. + +When the Americans came here they called these Indians "Diggers," +because they lived on what they could dig or root out of the ground. +They were very fond of grasshoppers, and ate them either dried or +raw, or made into a soup with acorn or nut-meal. Fat grubworms and +the flesh of any animal found dead was a great treat. If a whale or +sea-lion was washed ashore on the beach, the Indians gathered round it +for a feast, and soon left only the bones. + +[Illustration: INDIAN WOMAN WITH PAPPOOSE.] + +[Illustration: INDIAN WOMAN WITH BASKETS.] + +But they had no idea of saving food, so they fattened when there was +plenty, and starved when dry years made the acorns or nuts scarce. +Having no salt, they did not try to dry or smoke the meat of deer or +other wild animals. Nor did they at first lay up nuts and seeds, as +even the squirrels or woodpeckers do, for winter use. But wandering +from place to place, they camped in the summer along the rivers, where +fish was plenty and the wild oats gave them grain. In the fall they +hunted pine-nuts and berries in the mountains, till snow drove them +down into the valleys. + +Each Indian town, or rancheria, had a name, and many of these names +are still in use. At the north lived the Klamaths, Siskiyous, Shastas, +and the savage Modocs, whose months of fighting in the lava beds +caused the death of General Canby and many soldiers. The Porno tribes +of Lake county, Yrekas, Hoopas, and Ukiahs, are well known at the +present day. Tehama, Colusa, Tuolumne, Yosemite, and other places +recall the Indians who gave each its name. The San Diego Indians are +still known as Diegueños and live on a reserve, or lands set aside for +them. + +Almost all the natives had Indian money, called wampum, which they +made from abalone or clam-shells by cutting out round pieces like +buttons or small, hollow beads. Little shells were also used, and the +wampum was strung on grass or on deer sinews. The Pomos still make +thousands of pieces of this money, and so many strings of it will buy +whatever the buck, or Indian man, and his mahala, or squaw, wish to +get. + +General Bidwell, who came to California in 1841 and surveyed the land +for many ranches, says of the Indians at that time:-- + +"They were almost as wild as deer, and wore no clothes at all except +the women, who had tule aprons fastened to a belt round their waists. +In the rough work of surveying among brush and briars I gave the men +shoes, pantaloons, and shirts, which they would take off when work +was done, carry home in their hands, and put on in time to go to work +again. But they soon learned to sleep in their new things to save +trouble, and would wear them day and night till a suit dropped to +pieces. They were quick to do as the whites did, and when paid in +calico and cloth Saturday night, by Monday they had on their new +skirts or shirts all made up like ours. Yet every Indian would choose +beads for his wages, and go almost naked and hungry till the next +pay-day." + +General Bidwell treated the Indians honestly and kindly, and in return +they were his friends and helped him much to his advantage. In 1847 he +settled on the great Rancho Chico, and part of his land he gave to the +Mechoopdas, as the Indian rancheria there was called. They worked to +plant orchards and at all his farm-work, and he treated them so fairly +that old men are still living on this ranch who as boys helped the +general in his tree-planting and road-building. A whole village of +these Mechoopdas live on the Bidwell place owning their houses, while +Mrs. Bidwell is their best friend and helps them in sickness and +trouble. The men work in the hop fields and fruit orchards, and the +women make baskets. + +All the California Indians are basket-makers, and their work is so +well done and so beautiful that it is much prized. The Pomos of Lake +and Mendocino counties make especially fine baskets for every purpose. +Indeed, the Indian papoose, or baby, is cradled in a basket on his +mother's back; he drinks and eats from cup or bowl-shaped baskets, and +the whole family sleep under a great wicker tent basket thatched +with grass or tules. All Pomo baskets are woven on a frame of willow +shoots, and in and out through this the mahala draws tough grasses or +fine tree roots dyed in different colors, and after the pattern she +chooses. Sometimes she works into the baskets the quail's crest, small +red or yellow feathers from the woodpecker, green from the head of the +mallard duck, or beads. She also hangs wampum or bits of abalone shell +on the finest ones. The storage baskets are four or five feet high to +hold grain or acorns, and the baskets to fit the back and carry a +load are like half a cone in shape, with straps to hold the burden +in place. Their smaller berry baskets hold just a quart. Some are +water-tight and are used to cook mush in. Fish-traps and long narrow +basket-traps for quail are also made out of this willow-work. + +On the Bidwell ranch is an old Indian "temescal," or sweat-house. It +is an underground hut, or cave dug out of a hillside, with a hole in +the top for smoke to reach the air. The Indians used to build a big +fire in this cave and then lie round it till dripping with sweat. A +cold plunge into the creek near by finished the bath,--Turkish, we +call it. Nowadays the Indians use this place for a meeting-room and +for dances. + +The older Indians still dance and rig out in all their finery of +feathers and beads, though the young people are ashamed of their +tribal customs and wish to be like the white folks. Some of their +dances are named for a bird or animal, and the Indians must imitate by +their dress and cries the animal chosen. In the bear dance the dancer +crawls about the fire on all fours with a bear's skin about him. He +wears a chain of oak-balls round his neck, and as he shakes his head +these rattle like a bear's teeth snapping shut, while all the time he +growls savagely. The feather-dancer, with a skirt and cap of eagles' +feathers, will whirl on his toes like a top for hours, while the other +Indians sing and the master of the dance shakes a large rattle. + +The California Indians are slowly passing away, and though all over +the state there are still rancherias, the land that was once their +very own will soon know them no more. + + + + +THE STORY OF SAN FRANCISCO + + +The Mission and Presidio of San Francisco were founded in 1776 by +Father Palou, and two little settlements grew up around the fort and +at the church. The Presidio was built where it is now, and ships used +to anchor in the bay in front of it, though the whalers usually went +to Sausalito to get wood from the hills and to fill their water-casks +at a large spring. From early Mission times the Spanish name of Yerba +Buena was given to that part of San Francisco's peninsula between +Black Point and Rincon Point. Ship-captains and sailors soon found out +that the cove or bay east of Yerba Buena was the best and least windy +place to anchor their vessels, and later on hundreds of ships found +a safe harbor there. The name Yerba Buena, or good herb, was given +on account of a little creeping vine with sweet-smelling leaves which +covered the ground and is still found on the sand-dunes and Presidio +hills. + +For many years the small settlements made no progress, and the rest +of the peninsula was covered with thick woods, where the grizzly bear, +wolf, and coyote roamed, while deer were plenty at the Presidio. Then +in 1835 Governor Figueroa, the Mexican ruler of California, directed +that a new town should be started at Yerba Buena cove. The first +street, called the "foundation-street," was laid out from Pine and +Kearny streets, as they are called to-day, to North Beach. The first +house was built by Captain Richardson on what is now Dupont Street, +between Clay and Washington. The next year a trader named Jacob Leese +built a store. It was finished on the Fourth of July, and in honor of +the day he gave a feast and a fandango, or dance, at which the company +danced that night and all the next day. This was the first Fourth +celebrated in the place. + +Two or three years later a new survey laid out streets between +Broadway and California, Montgomery and Powell. A fresh-water lagoon, +or lake, was near the present corner of Montgomery and Sacramento, +and an Indian temescal, or sweat-house, beside it. The bay came up +to Montgomery Street then, with five feet of water at Sansome, and +mudflats to the east. During the gold excitement of '49, when hundreds +of ships dropped anchor in the bay, many sailors deserted to go to the +mines, and some of the old vessels were hauled in on these mud-flats +and made into storehouses. All that part of the city east of +Montgomery Street is filled or made ground, and when new buildings are +to be started wooden piles or cement piers must go down to get a firm +foundation. + +Until 1846 only about thirty families lived at Yerba Buena. Then a +shipload of Mormon emigrants arrived and pitched their tents in the +sand-hills. Samuel Brannan, their leader, printed the first newspaper, +_The California Star_, in '47. That year also the first alcalde, or +mayor, of the new town, Lieutenant Bartlett, appointed an engineer +named O'Farrell to lay out more streets. He surveyed Market Street and +mapped down blocks as far west on the sand-dunes as Taylor Street and +to Rincon Point or South Beach. He gave the names of such well-known +men as Kearny, Stockton, Larkin, Guerrero, and Geary to these streets. +Mission Street was the road to the Mission Dolores, and about this +time Bartlett ordered that the Presidio, the Mission, and Yerba Buena +should be one town and should be called San Francisco. + +Then came the gold fever, and nearly every one left town to go to the +mines. Many people sold all they had to get money to buy mining tools +and food enough to live on till they struck gold. Men started for the +mines, leaving their houses and stores alone with no one to care for +goods or furniture. + +But news of the finding of gold had reached other places, and soon +ships from the Atlantic coast, Mexico, and all over the world +began sailing into San Francisco Bay. In '49 the first steamer, the +_California_, arrived from New York, and soon five thousand people +were in San Francisco, where most of the supplies for the gold-fields +had to be bought. Many of the newcomers lived in canvas tents or +brush-covered shanties scattered about in the high sand-hills or in +the thick chaparral. Some houses were built of adobe bricks, and the +two-story frame Parker House was thought to be so fine that it rented +for fifteen thousand dollars a month. Some wooden houses were brought +out from the East in numbered pieces, like children's blocks, to be +put together here, and others thought to be fireproof were of iron +plates made in the East. + +The first public school was opened in '48 and in the same building +church services were held Sundays. The first post-office was in a +store at the corner of Washington and Montgomery streets in '49. By +1850 the city had five square miles of land that had been cut down +from sand-hills or filled in on the mud-flats. The houses along the +city-front were built on piles, and the tide ebbed and flowed under +them. Long wharves for the unloading of ships ran out into deep water. +At Jackson and Battery streets a ship was used for a storehouse, and +after the earth was filled in this stranded vessel was left standing +among the houses. On Clay and Sansome streets the old hulk _Niantic_ +had a hotel upon her decks, and the first city prison was in the hold +of the brig _Euphemia_. + +[Illustration: INDIAN BASKETS.] + +While most of the miners were steady, hard-working men, honest, and +very kind and generous to each other, some drank and gambled their +hard-earned gold-dust away with a get of men who were ready to do any +wrong thing for money. The gamblers and bad characters grew so +troublesome by '51 that the police could do little or nothing with +them. Every day some one was robbed, or murdered, and thieves often +set fire to houses that they might plunder. As the judges and police +could not control these criminals, nearly two hundred good citizens +formed a "vigilance committee." It was agreed that bad characters +should be told to leave town, and that robbers and murderers should +be punished by the committee. Not long after, the vigilance committee +hanged four men, and roughs and law-breakers left town for the mines. +Men soon learned to keep the laws and do right. + +Since almost all the houses in San Francisco were light frames of wood +covered with cloth or paper, and since there was no fire department, +there were six great fires, each of which nearly burnt up the town. +The only way to stop the flames was to pull down houses or to blow +them up with gunpowder. But almost before the ashes of one fire had +cooled, wooden, cloth and paper buildings would cover whole blocks, to +be burned again before long. The fifth great fire, in '51, destroyed a +thousand houses and ten million dollars' worth of property in a night. +One warehouse containing many barrels of vinegar was saved by covering +the roof with blankets dipped in the vinegar, as no water could be +had. The iron houses that had been thought fire-proof were of no use. +Men who stayed in them found too late that the iron doors swelled with +the heat and could not be opened, so that those within were smothered +to death. + +Then people began to guard against such fires by building new houses +of stone or of brick. The sixth great fire destroyed most of the +wooden buildings in the business part of the city. After that, +with two or three fire companies and engines and better houses, +people no longer dreaded the fire-bell. Water was piped into the city +from Mountain Lake, and there was plenty for all purposes. + +[Illustration: SEAL ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO.] + +[Illustration: THE NEW CLIFF HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO.] + +So the city grew larger, until in '53 there were fifty thousand people +of all races and countries who called San Francisco home. Chinese and +Japanese, the Mexican, African, Pacific Islander, Greek, or Turk, or +Malay elbowed crowds of Americans, English, French, and Germans. It +was said that any foreigner could find in the city those who spoke his +language, and that gold was a word all knew. + +The largest yield of gold from the mines was in '53, and the next +year was a poor year for the miners. They bought fewer goods in San +Francisco, and the storekeepers found business falling off. Too many +houses had been built, so rents went down and times were hard for +a year or two. In '55 there were many bank failures, and business +troubles of all kinds made the people restless, and roughs and +murderers carried a strong hand. Then the "law and order party," as +the vigilance committee was at that time called, began once more +the task of punishing those who robbed or killed. A list of criminal +offenders was made out, and such were sent away from the state. +One excellent result of the vigilance committee's labors was that a +"people's party," as it was called, chose the best men to govern the +city, and for years after peace and order were in San Francisco. + +In '54 the city was lighted with gas for the first time, at a cost of +fifteen dollars a thousand feet. In that year also the mint began to +coin money from gold-dust, making five, ten and twenty-dollar pieces. +Lone Mountain Cemetery was laid out about this time, and the old Yerba +Buena graveyard, where the City Hall now stands, was closed. + +San Francisco had, for some years, trouble about titles to property, +owing to false or defective land-grants given by the Mexicans. Men +tried to take possession of lots they had no real claim to by building +a shanty on the ground and squatting there, and the "squatter troubles" +between such land thieves and the rightful owners caused lawsuits and +shooting affairs. A land commission finally settled these disputes, +throwing out all the false claims and giving titles to the proper +persons. + +[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO JAPANESE TEA GARDEN, SAN FRANSISCO.] + +The little village of Yerba Buena has now grown to be the largest +city on the Pacific coast and one that is known the world over. It is +widely and justly celebrated as the centre of great manufacturing +and shipping interests, for its fine buildings, its climate, and its +beautiful surroundings. San Francisco Bay, the harbor the Franciscans +named for their patron saint, is noted for its picturesque scenery. +Golden Gate Park, with its thousand acres of trees and lawn and +flowers stretching out to the Pacific Ocean, the famous Cliff House, +and the Golden Gate, through which so many Argonauts sailed into +California, are the most attractive and best known places. + + + + +MEN CALIFORNIA REMEMBERS + + +Many pages of this book might be filled with California's roll of +honor,--with that long list of men whose names are remembered whenever +the state's history is recalled. + +Explorers, Mission-builders, Argonauts, and pioneers were the men who +helped to make California the fair state you know and live in. From +the first day of the Spanish discoveries on this shore of the Pacific +Ocean, we find brave and great men who gave their best efforts, and +sometimes their lives, for California. + +Let us head our brief list with Cortes, the name-giver, who dreamed +long years of the golden land he was never to see. Then Cabrillo, the +sea-king whom San Diego people honor every year because he found their +bay and first set foot on California's ground. Next comes the bold +Englishman, Sir Admiral Francis Drake, who intended that his queen, +Elizabeth, should have this Indian kingdom, as he believed it to +be. The stone Prayer-book Cross, in Golden Gate Park, was put up to +commemorate the service of prayer and psalms, offered at Drake's Bay +by Fletcher, the minister on the Admiral's ship. + +Good Father Serra, the founder of the Missions, his friend +and brother-priest Father Palou of San Francisco, and their +fellow-laborers Crespi and Lasuen, helped in the work of building +churches and teaching the Indians. Governor Portola, the first Spanish +ruler of Alta California, assisted the Padres, and also found San +Francisco Bay. Lieutenant Ayala, however, sailed the first ship, the +_San Carlos_, through the Golden Gate. Another governor, de Neve, +founded San José and Los Angeles, and wrote a set of laws for the two +Californias of his time. That wise ruler, Governor Borica, ordered +schools opened and tried to get the Indians to farm their lands and to +raise hemp and flax. + +Many of the old Spanish settlers and explorers have left us their +names, though they are themselves forgotten, as Martinez, Amador, +Castro, Bodega, and countless others plainly show. The Englishmen +Livermore, Gilroy and Mark West, those early settlers, Temple and Rice +at Los Angeles, Yount and Pope of Napa Valley, Don Timoteo Murphy of +San Rafael, and Lassen the Dane, for whom Lassen's Peak was named, +were among those who came here before 1830. + +Governor Figueroa, called the "benefactor of Alta California" ordered +the Missions to be given up to the Indians. By directing that the +town of Yerba Buena should be laid out, he also is remembered as the +founder of San Francisco. Richardson, who carried out the governor's +orders, was the first settler and Leese built the first frame-house of +San Francisco. + +In Governor Alvarado's time many Americans came to the new country, +although Alvarado and General Vallejo tried hard to keep them out. +Vallejo was then the military commander, and had headquarters at +Sonoma, where he had an adobe fort and a few soldiers to protect the +Mission of Solano. Here General Vallejo was living with his Indian and +Californian settlers when the place was taken by Ide, the leader +of the "bear-flag party." Vallejo, set free when the short-lived +"bear-flag republic" went to pieces, lived many years at Sonoma. He +was afterwards a member of the first legislature. He tried hard in +1851 to have the state capital at Vallejo; but he failed, for he did +not keep his agreement to put up buildings for government use. + +A man well known in the early days was John Sutter, a Swiss, who built +a fort and settled where Sacramento now stands. He called his colony +New Helvetia, and soon had about three hundred Indians at work for +him. Some of the men were carpenters, blacksmiths, and farmers, while +the women wove blankets or a coarse cloth. His fort enclosed about an +acre of ground, with an adobe wall twenty feet high. A large gate was +shut every night to keep safe those inside this walled fort. You have +read that Marshall, who found gold, was building a sawmill for Sutter +when he picked up the precious yellow nuggets. Sutter and Marshall +quarrelled at last about the ownership of the mill at Coloma, where +the pieces of gold were picked up. Marshall died a poor man, unhappy +and neglected by the state, which has since put a costly bronze statue +over his grave. + +Sutter was very active in the Micheltorena war, when Governor +Micheltorena was defeated and put out of office by Alvarado and +Castro. + +The last of the Mexican governors, Pio Pico, tried his best to +prevent the rush of Americans into his country, but though Castro, +the military commander, helped him, the Americans came and stayed. And +both Pico and Castro with their soldiers were driven out of California +at last by Fremont and Stockton. + +General Fremont, the "path-finder," who could easily find the best way +through a wilderness and could make maps or roads for others to +follow him, is a striking figure in California history. He made three +exploring trips to this coast, Kit Carson, the famous hunter and +trapper, being his guide and scout. From the Oregon line to San Diego, +Fremont knew the country. He was a brave Indian fighter and helped to +capture California from Mexico. Fremont was appointed governor of the +new territory by Stockton, and was the first senator from California +representing the state in Congress. In 1848 Fremont sent a map of the +country to Congress, and on it named the strait at the entrance to +San Francisco Bay the Golden Gate. He was, therefore, the first to use +this beautiful name now known the world over. His wife, Jessie Benton +Fremont, is still living in Los Angeles. + +Commodore Sloat, who raised the American flag at Monterey, and +Commodore Stockton were United States naval officers who helped to +conquer the Mexican and Indian forces with the aid of Fremont and +General Kearny. These four men won the land of gold for the Union. + +General John Bidwell, another "path-finder," who in 1841 led the first +party of white men over the Sierras, lived to be over eighty years of +age. He saw the state, once a wilderness where naked Digger Indians +chased elk and antelope, grow to a pleasant land of orchards and +vineyards, of great cities full of people. General Bidwell was for a +time in Sutter's employ, and surveyed nearly all the large ranches +and the roads in early days. All his life he planted trees and built +roads, and at his great Rancho Chico is one of the largest orchards in +the state. Part of his life-work was to help a tribe of savage Indians +to be good American citizens, and as one of the fathers of California +he should always be remembered. + +Many notable names appear in the days when the finding of gold brought +this shore of the Pacific Ocean before the eyes of the world. Among +these are Gwin, who was chosen senator with Fremont; Larkin, widely +known as the first and last American Consul to California and for his +accounts of the gold discovery; and Halleck, first secretary of the +state and afterward General Halleck. + +The streets of San Francisco honor some of the citizens of 1848 and +1849: Geary, the first postmaster; Leavenworth and Hyde, the first +alcaldes or mayors; Van Ness, Broderick, Turk, and McAllister, +recalling prominent men of those days. Spanish families like Sanchez, +Castro, Noe, Bernal, and Guerrero had also a place on the city map. +Indeed, every town has some native Californian names in and around it. + +Don Victor Castro, said to be the first white child born in San +Francisco, died lately at San Pablo in the house he had built sixty +years ago. He was called the last of the Spanish grandees, those dons +who, before the Gringos came, had estates that stretched miles away +on every hand, and thousands of cattle with many Indian servants. Don +Victor built and ran the first ferry across San Francisco Bay. + +Sacramento was laid out as a town for Sutter by three lieutenants of +the U.S. army: Warner, who was afterwards killed by Indians; Ord, +who was a general in the Civil War, while the third, in after years +"marched through Georgia" as General Sherman. Marysville was also laid +out by Sutter, and Stockton by Weber, who owned all the land around +it. + +In 1849 Doctor Gregg and his party found Humboldt Bay. In 1851 +Yosemite Valley was discovered by Major Savage and a company of +soldiers, who were out hunting hostile Indians. This band of Indians +was called the Yosemites, and their old chief's name was Tenaya, for +whom the beautiful lake is named. + +Those who came to California before 1850 were called pioneers, and +many of them built up great fortunes. Among them were Coleman, the +president of the vigilance committee, Sharon, Flood, Fair, O'Brien, +Tevis, Phelan, and James Lick. Lick was a remarkable man, who gave +away an immense fortune; building the Lick Observatory, a school of +mechanical arts, free public baths, an old ladies' home, and giving +a million to the Academy of Science and the Society of California +Pioneers. + +In later days the names crowd thickly upon each other. Among editors +and literary men the fearless and ill-fated James King of the _Evening +Bulletin_, J. Ross Browne, the reporter of the first convention and a +most interesting writer, Derby the humorist, "Caxton" or W.H. Rhodes, +Mark Twain, Bret Harte, the historians Hittell and Bancroft, and the +poet Joaquin Miller may be noted. + +The governors of the state have been men remarkable as brilliant +speakers or lawyers and as wise rulers. In 1875, during the time of +Pacheco, the first native-born governor, the order of "Native Sons of +the Golden West" was formed, which now numbers over ten thousand young +California men. The "Native Daughters," a sister society, follows also +the idea of keeping the love of California warm in the hearts of her +children. + +[Illustration: FALLEN LEAF LAKE.] + +[Illustration: MOUNT SHASTA FROM STRAWBERRY VALLEY.] + + + + +OUR GLORIOUS CLIMATE + + +Not only a glorious but in many ways a wonderful climate is enjoyed +by the people of California's sea-coast and mountains, her valleys and +foot-hills. In no other state can one find so many kinds of weather +in such short distances. For instance, in Southern California you may +pick flowers and oranges in almost tropical gardens, and in an hour +find winter and throw snowballs on the high mountains overlooking the +roses and orange groves you so lately left. + +Only in the mountains, along that granite backbone of the state known +as the Sierra Nevadas, are there four seasons, the spring, summer, +autumn, and winter common to most of the United States. So the Sierras +have a distinct climate of their own. The Sacramento and San Joaquin +river valleys have another climate peculiar to themselves, while south +of latitude 35 degrees the coast has less rain and is warmer than the +coast counties north of that line. + +In the greater part of the state the year is divided into a dry summer +and a wet winter. The rains begin in October, and the first showers +fall on dry, brown hills and dusty fields baked hard by steady +sunshine since May. After these showers the grass springs up, and +the fields are green almost as quickly as if some fairy godmother had +waved her wand. An army of wild flowers, whose seeds were hidden in +the brown earth, wakes when the rain-drops patter, and the plants get +ready to bloom in a month or so. For this season, from November to +February, with little frost and no ice nor snow, is winter in name +only. Roses and violets bloom in the gardens and yellow poppies on the +hills. + +People expect and hope for much rain in this so-called winter, since a +wet year assures good crops to the state. But the amount of rain that +falls is very uncertain. It does not rain every day, nor all day, as a +rule, and each storm seems different. Sometimes a "southeaster" blows +up from the Japan Current, or Black Stream, as the Japanese call the +warm, dark-blue waters that pour out of the China Sea. This current of +the Pacific Ocean flows along our coast in a mighty river a thousand +miles wide, and gives California its peculiar climate of cool summers +and moist, warm winters. The southeasterly wind ruffles the bay with +white-capped waves and dashes sheets of rain against window and roof. +Then the wind changes, and all the clouds go flying to north or east, +while from the clear blue sky brilliant sunshine pours down to make +the grass and flowers grow. During the winter months the sun is strong +and warm enough to make out-door life delightful. + +The farmer depends greatly upon the rainfall. In a wet winter the +moisture sinks far into the ground, but not so deep that the thirsty +little roots cannot find it in the summer. Early rains are needed to +soften the ground for November ploughing, and young grain and crops of +all kinds need rain through April. In the northern part of the state +the wet season begins earlier and lasts longer than in the south, +while the southeastern corner is an almost rainless desert. + +In San Francisco the thermometer seldom falls below 45º in the winter, +the average for the season being 51º. Perhaps in January or February +the sidewalks may be white with frost in the mornings, or hail may +fall during some cold rain-storm. Once in five years or so, enough +snow falls to make children go wild with delight over a few snowballs +which are very soon melted. People can be comfortable the year round +without fires, and the clear, bright winter days with soft air and +warm sunshine are always pleasant enough to spend outdoors. This +ocean climate, due to the warm sea air, is enjoyed by the counties +facing the coast and San Francisco Bay. In the valleys of the interior +white frosts are frequent, and thin ice forms on the wayside puddles. +Once in a while killing frosts destroy fruit blossoms and cut down the +garden flowers and vegetables, but seldom do more damage. + +[Illustration: "EL CAPITAN" (3300 feet in height).] + +[Illustration: YOSEMITE FALLS.] + +In mountain regions, above five or six thousand feet, the very cold +winter lasts six or seven months. Snow falls almost constantly and +drifts to a great depth. Small lakes are frozen and buried in snow, +and the trees are bent and weighed down with ice and sleet. Many of +the wild animals come down to the foot-hills below the snow-line to +spend the winter; but the bear curls himself up in his warm cave and +sleeps through the cold months. In this snowy zone of the Sierras, +about thirty miles wide, winter lasts from the first snowfall, about +the end of October, to the late spring of June. Then July and August +are months of glorious weather, with clear, dry air and a cloudless +sky. During the day the temperature of about 80 degrees melts much +snow, and the rivers carry it away in rushing torrents and falls of +icy water. In September the frost turns the leaves of all but the +evergreen trees beautiful colors of red and yellow. Indian summer +comes during September and October, when the days are sunny and warm, +and then the long winter sets in again. Peaks above eight thousand +feet are snow-clad on their crests and along their sides by deep +drifts the year round. + +Along the Pacific coast in summer cool sea-winds, called trade-winds, +blow in from the ocean, and 60 degrees is the average temperature. The +farther you go inland from the coast, the hotter it gets, and the heat +is very great in the interior of the state. In the San Joaquin and +Sacramento valleys it is often over 100 degrees in the shade, though +this dry heat is not hard to bear, and the nights are always cool +enough for one to sleep in comfort. + +Summer fogs are usual in the coast counties. The mornings are pleasant +and sunny till about eleven o'clock. At this time the sun's rays +grow stronger in the interior valleys, and the hot air rises while +trade-winds rush in from the cold ocean and fog settles down like a +thick, gray cloud over the bay and hills. July and August are cold and +foggy along the coastline, with strong west winds almost every day. In +September the winds die away, and sometimes a shower or two falls. + +The rainless desert, or southeastern corner of our state, is the +hottest region of all. Here the sun glares down till sand and rocks +seem heated by a fiery furnace. Every living creature gasps and pants +for breath in the scorching heat. There are no trees, but only cactus, +that queer, prickly, thorny plant, often fifteen or twenty feet +high in these wastes of sand, and low greasewood bushes. Under this +vegetation snakes, lizards, and horned toads bask all day and search +for food at night. If travellers wander from the road in crossing the +desert, they are easily lost, and sometimes they die or go mad in the +terrible heat. There are no springs, and water stations are a long way +apart, so that lost people usually die of thirst. As the heat of the +sun's rays quivers over the burning sands, a curious sight called +a mirage is often produced. A cool, glassy lake or flowing river +bordered with green trees seems pictured in the air, and the hot and +weary traveller can scarcely believe that only sand and rocks are +before him. + +Can you tell which season you like the best? You will find the one you +choose in some part of this favored state. It is always summer in the +south, and you may slide on the ice or throw snowballs all year in the +high Sierras. + + + + +SOME WONDERFUL SIGHTS + + +California is a wonderland where snowy mountains, mighty and ancient +forests, glaciers and geysers, lakes and waterfalls, foaming rivers +and the cliffs and rolling surf down her long sea-coast give new and +beautiful pictures at every place. + +Through the whole state stretches the granite backbone of the Sierra +Nevadas with its highest crest or ridge at the head-waters of the +Kings and Kern rivers near Fresno. Here Mount Whitney and a dozen +other great peaks of the High Sierras or California Alps lift their +heads over thirteen thousand feet in the air. Here are to be seen most +magnificent panoramas of lofty peaks, deep cañons, towering domes, and +snow-clad summits. The finest forests, too, in the world grow on the +slopes of the Sierras, the immense pines and giant _sequoias_ of +the General Grant and other National Parks in this section being the +largest and oldest of all. Kings River Cañon is a rugged gorge half a +mile deep with the river rushing through it in thundering rapids and +cascades. + +The well-known Yosemite Valley is the gorge of the Merced River and, +though only eight miles long and half a mile wide, holds the grandest +of all our mountain scenery. The mighty rock El Capitan, over three +thousand feet in height, stands at the entrance to the valley, and +across from it is Bridal Veil Fall, a snowy cascade so thin you can +see the face of the mountain through the falling waters. There are +many waterfalls, but the Yosemite is chief of them all. Here the river +takes a plunge of sixteen hundred feet, the water falling like snowy +rockets bursting into spray from that great height. + +Then, for six hundred feet more, the torrent leaps and foams through +a trench it has cut out of the solid rock to the cliff, from which it +takes a second plunge. This Lower Yosemite fall is four hundred feet +high, the rushing waters turning into clouds of spray, which the wind +tosses from side to side. At Nevada Fall the Merced River leaps six +hundred feet at a bound, strikes a mass of rocks halfway down, and +breaks into white foam upon which rainbows play when the sun shines +through the misty veil. + +Besides the grand Sentinel Rock, Eagle Peak, Clouds' Rest, and other +high mountains in the Yosemite Valley, many domes or round-topped +peaks like the heads of buried giants loom up, the most famous being +South Dome, Washington Column, Liberty Cap, and Mount Broderick. + +But no one can picture this wonderful valley with pen or brush or +camera and give its real charm. You must see it yourself to know and +understand the beauty of great mountains and falling waters, of Mirror +Lake with its fine reflections of the surrounding scenery, and of the +rushing torrent of the Merced River in its swift coursing through this +mighty cañon of the Yosemite. Thousands of tourists and sightseers +visit the valley from May to October. Then snow begins to fall and +winter sets in, as it does everywhere in the high Sierras. Very deep +snow-drifts cover the ground, lakes and rivers freeze, and the great +falls are fringed with icicles, while a large ice cone forms at the +foot of the falling water. Many beautiful pictures may be found in +the valley in winter when Jack Frost is ruler of all the snow-clad, +ice-bound cañon. + +Scattered throughout the Sierras are other valleys almost as fine +as the Yosemite. These are not often reached by the army of summer +sight-seers, but true mountaineers find them. One valley which has +fine scenery is the Grand Cañon of the Tuolumne, the gorge being +twenty-five miles long, with walls so high and steep that once entered +one must go through to the end. The Tuolumne River rushes, with +terrible force and speed, in cascades and rapids down the granite +stairway which is the floor of this cañon. The walls of the gorge +rise so high that the traveller only sees a tiny strip of blue sky far +above him, and the great pine trees on top of these cliff walls seem +only the length of one's finger. + +It is supposed that all these valleys have been formed by glaciers, +which during the ice age, thousands of years ago, filled the cañons +and swept over the mountains. These masses of ice, moving very slowly, +ground and tore up the rocks under and around them till deep gorges +and steep, high cliffs were left in their tracks. Most of the glaciers +melted long ago, but on Mount Lyell, on Shasta, and a few of the +Sierra summits may still be found those ever-living ice-rivers, the +one on Mount Lyell being the source of the Tuolumne River. + +California is rich in lakes, especially in the mountains where the +melting snows gather in every hollow and form lakelets in chains or +groups, or in one large body of water like Tahoe, Donner, or Tenaya +lakes. + +One of the most beautiful lakes in the world is Lake Tahoe. It is six +thousand feet above sea-level, and the mountains around it rise four +thousand feet higher. On these peaks snow-drifts lie the year round +above the "snow-line," as a height over eight or nine thousand feet +is called. Nevada, treeless and barren, is on the eastern side of +Lake Tahoe, while the western or California side is green and thickly +wooded with beautiful pines. But the first thing one would notice, +perhaps, is the wonderful clearness of the lake water. As one stands +on the wharf the steamer _Tahoe_ seems to be hanging in the clear +green depths with her keel and twin propellers in plain sight. The +fish dart under her and all about as in some large aquarium. There a +big lake-trout shoots by like a silver streak of light, or here is a +school of hundreds of little fingerlings. Every stick or stone shows +on the bottom as one starts out on the steamer, and as one sails +along where the water is sixty or seventy feet deep. In the middle +the lake's depth is fifteen hundred feet and the water is a dark +indigo-blue. At the edge and along shallow places the color is bright +green, as at Emerald Bay, a beautiful inlet three miles long. Lake +Tahoe is twenty miles in length and about five wide, and its icy cold +waters are of crystal clearness and very pure. + +Fallen Leaf Lake is a smaller Tahoe, and Donner Lake, not far from +Truckee, and now the camping-place of many a summer visitor, is the +place where years ago the Donner overland party spent a terrible +winter in the Sierra snows. + +Clear Lake and the Blue Lakes in Lake County are delightful places +to visit, and in this county, too, are the geysers. Some wonderful +curiosities are seen here. You will find springs that spout up a +stream of hot water every few minutes, mineral springs from which +you can have a drink of soda water, and an acid spring that flows +lemonade. Alum, iron, or sulphur waters, either hot or cold, bubble +up out of the ground at every turn. At one spring you may boil an +egg. Other springs are used for steam baths and also hot mud-baths. In +Geyser Cañon is the strange place every sight-seer hurries to at once. +Such rumblings and thunderings, such hot vapors and gases come from +the cracks in the ground, that the Indians thought this was the +workshop where the bad spirit which white people call the devil used +to live and work. The deeper one goes into this cañon, the hotter and +noisier it gets. All round are signs telling where it is dangerous +to step, while the ground is hot, and boiling water runs by in little +streams. Steam rises from many pools, and the sulphur smell almost +chokes one. Another curious spring, called the devil's inkstand, seems +full of ink. Mount St. Helena, near here, is a dead or extinct +volcano, and probably there are fires in the earth under this region +which keep up these steam and sulphur springs. + +[Illustration: NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ.] + +Many of the Sierra summits are capped with volcanic rock, and Lassen's +Peak and Mount Shasta are extinct volcanoes. There are hot springs and +cracks from which steam and sulphur rise on both of these mountains, +and as earthquakes often shake the earth in different parts of the +state we know that underground fires are still at work. A great piece +of land on Mount San Jacinto in Southern California lately sank down +about a hundred feet, and cracks both deep and wide show that some +force from below gave a thorough shaking-up to that part of the state. + +Mono, Owen's, and several other large lakes are the "sinks" into which +rivers flow and lose themselves in the sandy or marshy shores. These +lakes have soda or salt in their waters, and great stretches of dry +alkali lands around them. The famous Death Valley is a dry lake of +this kind where the sun beats down on the white alkali plain till it +is almost certain death to try to cross it without a guide. The +Salton Sea is a dry lake where almost pure salt is dug out, and great +quantities of borax and of soda are found in other beds, of dried-up +streams and lakes. + +But to tell of all the curious things nature has to show us in +California,--of the forests of petrified trees, of the caverns cut out +of the ocean cliffs by restless waves, or of those in the mountains or +the Modoc lava-beds,--well, you will see most of them, let us hope, in +your vacations. A large book might be given to the wonderful sights +of this great state, and it may be your fortune to visit and so always +remember a few we have named. + + + +PRONOUNCING VOCABULARY + +Alta (äl´-ta). +Amador (am´-a-dore). +Alvarado (al-va-rä´-do). +Ayala (ä-yä´-la). +Bernal (ber-nal´). +Bodega (bo-d[=a]´-ga). +Cabrillo (ka-breel´-yo). +Calaveras (kal-a-v[=a]´-ras). +Carmel (kar´-mel). +Castro (kas´-tro). +Cortes (kor´-tez). +Coloma (ko-lo´-ma). +Diegueño (de-[=a]-gw[=a]n´-yo). +Farallones (f[)a]r´-a-lones). +Figueroa (fi-gwa-ro´-a). +Franciscan (fran-cis´-can). +Galvez (gal´-ves). +Gringos (gring´-gos). +Guerrero (gur-r[=a]´-ro). +Junipero Serra (h[=u]-nip´-er-o ser´-ra). +Klamath (klam´-eth). +Los Angeles (los an´-ga-lees). +Marin (ma-rin´). +Mariposa (mar-e-po´-sa). +Martinez (mar-tee´-nes). +Mechoopdas (me-choop´-das). +Mission Dolores (mis´-sion do-l[=o]r´-es). +Modocs (mo´-docs). +Monterey (mon-ta-ray´). +Noe (no´-a). +Ortega (or-t[=a]´-ga). +Pacheco (pä-ch[=a]´-ko). +Padres (pa´-drays). +Palou (pa´-loo). +Pio Pico (pe´-o pe´-ko). +Placerville (pl[)a]s´-er-vil). +Point Reyes (rays). +Pomos (po´-mos). +Portola (por-to´-la). +San Antonio (san an-t[=o]-ni-[=o]). +Sanchez (san´-ches). +San Carlos (san kar´-l[=o]s). +San Diego (san de-[=a]´-go). +San Fernando (san fer-nan´-do). +San Francisco (san fran-cis´-co). +San Gabriel (san ga-brell´). +San Jacinto (san ha-sin´-to). +San Joaquin (san waw-keen´). +San Jose (san ho-say´). +San Juan Bautista (san wawn ba-tis´-ta). +San Juan Capistrano (san wawn kap-is-tra´-no). +San Luis Obispo (san loo-is o-bis´-po). +San Miguel (san mig-gell´). +Santa Barbara (san´-ta bar´-ba-ra). +Santa Catalina (san´-ta kat-a-lee´-na). +Santa Cruz (san´-ta krooz). +Santa Lucia (san´-ta loo-she´-a). +Santa Ysabel (san´-ta [=e]´-sa-bel). +Santa Ynez (san´-ta e´-nes). +Sausalito (saw-sa-lee´-to). +Sierras (see-er´-ras). +Siskiyous (sis´-ke-yous). +Sonoma (so-no´-ma). +Sutter (s[)u]t´-ter). +Tahoe (tä´-ho). +Tamalpais (tarm´-el-pies). +Tenaya (te-ni´-ya). +Tulare (too-lar´-ee). +Tuolumne (too-ol´-um-ee). +Ukiah (u-ki´-ah). +Vallejo (väl-y[=a]´-ho). +Viscaino (vees-kä-e´-no). +Wawona (wa-wo´-na). +Yerba Buena (yer´-ba bw[=a]´-na). +Yosemite (yo sem´-e-tee). + +abalone (ab-a-lo´-nee). +adobe (a-do´-bee). +alcalde (al-kal´-day). +arrastra (ar-ras´-tra). +burro (boo´-ro). +cañon (can´-yon). +carne seca (kar´-n[=a] s[=a]´-ka). +cascarone (kas-ka-ro´-na). +chaparral (shap-per-ral´). +coyote (ki-o´-tee). +corral (kor-ral´). +debris (day-bree´). +el toro (el to´-ro). +fandango (fan-dang´-go). +frijoles (free-yo´-lays). +galleon (gal´-le-on). +madroño (ma-dron´-yo). +manzanita (man-zan-ee´-ta). +mantilla (man-tee´-ya). +mahala (ma-ha´-la). +mesa (m[=a]´-sa). +mustangs (mus´-tangs), +presidio (pr[=a]-se´-de-o). +pueblos (p[=u]-[=a]´-blos), +ranche (ransh). +rancheria (ran-sha-ree´-a). +rodeos (ro-da´-os). +senora (s[=a]n-yo´-ra). +senoritas (s[=a]n-yor-ee´-tas). +sombrero (som-br[=a]´-ro). +sequoias (see-kwoy´-as). +serape (ser-ä´-pay). +teredo (te-r[=e]´-do). +temescal (tem-es-kal´). +tortillas (tor-tee´-yas). +tule (too´-lee). +vaqueros (vä-ka´-ros). + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Stories of California, by Ella M. Sexton + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13232 *** diff --git a/13232-h/13232-h.htm b/13232-h/13232-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b016cea --- /dev/null +++ b/13232-h/13232-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,4689 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" + content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of + Stories of California, + by Ella M. Sexton. +</title> +<style type="text/css"> + P { text-indent: 1em; + margin-top: .75em; + font-size: 100%; + margin-bottom: .75em; } + HR{ border: 0; + width: 33%; + height: 4px;} + PRE{ + font-size: 100%; + margin-left: 2.5em;} + P.bq{ + font-size: 100%;} + P.list{ + text-indent: 6px; + margin-top: 3px; + margin-bottom: 3px; } + div.caption{ + font-size: 80%;} +</style> +</head> + +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13232 ***</div> + +<p> </p> + +<a name="image-1"><!-- Image 1 --></a> +<div align="center"> +<a href="images/lg1000.jpg"><img src="images/sm1000.jpg" alt="Nevada Falls (Height 617 Feet). Yosemite Valley." +width="203" height="339" border="0"></a> +<br>Nevada Falls (Height 617 Feet). Yosemite Valley.<br> +<i>Click Thumbnail for full-size Illustration</i></div> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<div align="center"><h1>STORIES OF CALIFORNIA</h1> +<p> </p> +<h3>BY</h3> +<h2>ELLA M. SEXTON </h2> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h3>NEW YORK </h3> +<h2>THE MACMILLAN COMPANY </h2> +<h3>LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., LTD. </h3> +<h3>1903</h3> +<h4><i>All rights reserved</i></h4> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_1"><!-- RULE4 1 --></a> + +<h4>1902,</h4> +<h4>BY THE MACMILLAN COMPANY.</h4> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<h4>Set up, electrotyped, and published September, 1902. Reprinted October, 1903.</h4> +<h4>Normond Press J.S. Cushing & Co.—Berwick & Smith Co. +Norwood, Mass., U.S.A.</h4> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<a name="FOR"><!-- FOR --></a> +<h2> + FOREWORD +</h2> + +<p> +To recount in simple, accurate narratives the early conditions and +subsequent development of California is the purpose of this book. In +attempting to picture the romantic events embodied in the wonderful +history of the state, and to make each sketch clear and concise as +well as interesting, the author has avoided many dry details and +dates. +</p> +<p> +Several of the stories endeavor to explain the remarkable physical +characteristics of California. The work to this end was rendered +lighter by the hope that the reader might find the book merely an +introduction to that larger knowledge of personal observation and +inquiry. +</p> +<p> +But the writer's chief aim has been to interest the children of +California in the beautiful land of their birth, to unfold to them the +life and occurrences of bygone days, and to lead them to note and to +enjoy their fortunate surroundings. +</p> +<p> +Among the many authorities consulted for the work, special +acknowledgment is due to the historians, Theodore H. Hittell and H.H. +Bancroft. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<hr> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="TOC"><!-- TOC --></a> +<h2> + CONTENTS +</h2> + +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_3">CALIFORNIA'S NAME AND EARLY HISTORY</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_4">THE STORY OF THE MISSIONS AND OF FATHER SERRA</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_5">BEFORE THE GRINGOS CAME</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_6">THE AMERICANS AND THE BEAR-FLAG REPUBLIC</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_7">THE DAYS OF GOLD AND THE ARGONAUTS OF '49</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_8">MINING STORIES</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_9">HOW POLLY ELLIOTT CAME ACROSS THE PLAINS</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_10">THE BUILDING OF THE OVERLAND RAILROAD</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_11">STORY OF THE WHEAT FIELDS</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_12">ORCHARD, FARM, AND VINEYARD</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_13">THE STORY OF THE NAVEL ORANGE</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_14">THE LEMON</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_15">FLOWERS AND PLANTS</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_16">THE BIG TREES AND LUMBERING</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_17">OUR BIRDS</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_18">OUR WILD ANIMALS</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_19">IN SALT WATER AND FRESH</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_20">ABOUT CALIFORNIA'S INDIANS</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_21">THE STORY OF SAN FRANCISCO</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_22">MEN CALIFORNIA REMEMBERS</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_23">OUR GLORIOUS CLIMATE</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_24">SOME WONDERFUL SIGHTS</a> +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="ILL"><!-- ILL --></a> +<h2> + ILLUSTRATIONS +</h2> + +<p>1. <a href="images/lg1000.jpg"> +NEVADA FALLS (height 617 feet), YOSEMITE VALLEY +</a></p> +<p>2. <a href="images/lg1005.jpg"> +FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA +</a></p> +<p>3. <a href="images/lg1012a.jpg"> +MISSION CHURCH, MONTEREY +</a></p> +<p>4. <a href="images/lg1012b.jpg"> +OLD SAN DIEGO MISSION. Founded 1769 +</a></p> +<p>5. <a href="images/lg1021a.jpg"> +MISSION SAN LUIS REY. Founded 1798 +</a></p> +<p>6. <a href="images/lg1021b.jpg"> +MISSION DOLORES. Established 1776 +</a></p> +<p>7. <a href="images/lg1028.jpg"> +SANTA BARBARA MISSION. Founded 1786 +</a></p> +<p>8. <a href="images/lg1037a.jpg"> +UPPER SACRAMENTO RIVER +</a></p> +<p>9. <a href="images/lg1037b.jpg"> +PLACER GOLD MINING. Washing with Cradle +</a></p> +<p>10. <a href="images/lg1085a.jpg"> +AN ORANGE TREE WITH FRUIT AND BLOSSOMS +</a></p> +<p>11. <a href="images/lg1085b.jpg"> +PALMS OVER 100 YEARS OLD AT LOS ANGELES +</a></p> +<p>12. +HOP VINES [1] +</p> +<p>13. +AMONG THE HOP VINES[1] +</p> +<p>14. +WHITE SANTA BARBARA POPPY[1] +</p> +<p>15. +WILD CALIFORNIA POPPY[1] +</p> +<p>16. <a href="images/lg1103a.jpg"> +IN A MISSION GARDEN +</a></p> +<p>17. <a href="images/lg1103b.jpg"> +A CHRISTMAS GARDEN +</a></p> +<p>18. <a href="images/lg1106a.jpg"> +"WAWONA" (28 feet in diameter) +</a></p> +<p>19. <a href="images/lg1106b.jpg"> +THE GRIZZLY GIANT (33 feet in diameter) +</a></p> +<p>20. <a href="images/lg1118.jpg"> +BIG TREES AT FELTON, SANTA CRUZ CO. +</a></p> +<p>21. <a href="images/lg1133a.jpg"> + YOUNG TOWHEE +</a></p> +<p>22. <a href="images/lg1133b.jpg"> +BABY YELLOW WARBLERS. From photographs by Elizabeth Grinnell +</a></p> +<p>23. <a href="images/lg1140.jpg"> +CALIFORNIA RED DEER. From a photograph by George V. Robinson +</a></p> +<p>24. <a href="images/lg1149a.jpg"> +LEAPING TUNA +</a></p> +<p>25. <a href="images/lg1149b.jpg"> +BLACK SEA BASS +</a></p> +<p>26. <a href="images/lg1159a.jpg"> +HUMPBACK WHALE (57 feet long) +</a></p> +<p>27. <a href="images/lg1159b.jpg"> +TROUT FROM LAKE TAHOE +</a></p> +<p>28. <a href="images/lg1162a.jpg"> +INDIAN WOMAN WITH PAPPOOSE +</a></p> +<p>29. <a href="images/lg1162b.jpg"> +INDIAN WOMAN WITH BASKETS +</a></p> +<p>30. <a href="images/lg1174.jpg"> +INDIAN BASKETS +</a></p> +<p>31. <a href="images/lg1177a.jpg"> +SEAL ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO +</a></p> +<p>32. <a href="images/lg1177b.jpg"> +THE NEW CLIFF HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO +</a></p> +<p>33. <a href="images/lg1179.jpg"> +ENTRANCE TO JAPANESE TEA GARDEN, SAN FRANCISCO +</a></p> +<p>34. <a href="images/lg1191a.jpg"> +FALLEN LEAF LAKE +</a></p> +<p>35. <a href="images/lg1191b.jpg"> +MOUNT SHASTA FROM STRAWBERRY VALLEY +</a></p> +<p>36. <a href="images/lg1194a.jpg"> +"EL CAPITAN" (3300 feet in height) +</a></p> +<p>37. <a href="images/lg1194b.jpg"> +YOSEMITE FALLS +</a></p> +<p>38. <a href="images/lg1206.jpg"> +NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ +</a></p> + +<p class="bq">[Compiler's note 1: Four illustrations were omitted from the published book, but were listed in the +Illustrations pages.]</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_2"><!-- RULE4 2 --></a> +<h2> + STORIES OF CALIFORNIA +</h2> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_3"><!-- RULE4 3 --></a> +<h1> + STORIES OF CALIFORNIA +</h1> + + +<h2>CALIFORNIA'S NAME AND EARLY HISTORY</h2> +<p> </p> + +<p> +A Spanish story written four hundred years ago speaks of California as +an island rich in pearls and gold. Only black women lived there, the +story says, and they had golden spears, and collars and harness of +gold for the wild beasts which they had tamed to ride upon. This +island was said to be at a ten days' journey from Mexico, and was +supposed to lie near Asia and the East Indies. +</p> +<p> +Among those who believed such fairy tales about this wonderful island +of California was Cortes, a Spanish soldier and traveller. He had +conquered Mexico in 1521 and had made Montezuma, the Mexican emperor, +give him a fortune in gold and precious stones. Then Cortes wished +to find another rich country to capture, and California, he thought, +would be the very place. He wrote home to Spain promising to bring +back gold from the island, and also silks, spices, and diamonds from +Asia. For he was sure that the two countries were near together, and +that both might be found in the Pacific Ocean, or South Sea, as he +called it, by sailing northwest. +</p> +<p> +So for years Cortes built ships in New Spain (or Mexico), and sent out +men to hunt for this golden island. They found the Gulf of California, +and at last Cortes himself sailed up and down its waters. He explored +the land on both sides, and saw only poor, naked Indians who had a few +pearls but no gold. Cortes never found the golden island. We should +remember, however, that his ships first sailed on the North Pacific +and explored Lower California, and that he first used the name +California for the peninsula. +</p> +<p> +It was left for a Portuguese ship-captain called Cabrillo to find the +port of San Diego in 1542. He was the first white man to land upon +the shores of California, as we know it. Afterwards he sailed north to +Monterey. Many Indians living along the coast came out to his ship +in canoes with fish and game for the white men. Then Cabrillo sailed +north past Monterey Bay, and almost in sight of the Golden Gate. But +the weather was rough and stormy, and without knowing of the fine +harbor so near him, he turned his ship round and sailed south again. +He reached the Santa Barbara Islands, intending to spend the winter +there, but he died soon after his arrival. The people of San Diego +now honor Cabrillo with a festival every year. He was the sea-king who +found their bay and first set foot on California ground. +</p> +<p> +About this time Magellan had discovered the Philippine Islands, and +Spain began to send ships from Mexico to those islands to buy silks, +spices, and other rich treasures. The Spanish galleons, or vessels, +loaded with their costly freight, used to come home by crossing +the Pacific to Cape Mendocino, and then sailing down the coast of +California to Mexico. Before long the English, who hated Spain and +were at war with her, sent out brave sea-captains to capture the +Spanish galleons and their cargoes. Sir Francis Drake, one of the +boldest Englishmen, knew this South Sea very well, and on a ship +called the <i>Golden Hind</i> (which meant the Golden Deer), he came +to the New World and captured every Spanish vessel he sighted. He +loaded his ship with their treasures, gold and silver bars, chests of +silver money, velvets and silks, and wished to take his cargo back to +England. He tried to find a northern, or shorter way home, and at last +got so far north that his sailors suffered from cold, and his ship was +nearly lost. Obliged to sail south, he found a sheltered harbor near +Point Reyes, and landed there in 1579. Drake claimed the new country +for the English Queen, Elizabeth, and named it New Albion. A great many friendly +Indians in the neighborhood brought presents of feather and bead work to the +commander and his men. These Indians killed small game and deer with +bows and arrows, and had coats or mantles of squirrel skins. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Natural Bridge, Santa Cruz" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1206.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1206.jpg" width="150" height="150" border="0" + alt="NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">NATURAL BRIDGE, <br>SANTA CRUZ. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Drake and his sailors repaired and refitted their vessel during the +month they stayed at Drake's Bay. They made several trips inland also +and saw the pine and redwood forests with many deer feeding on the +hills; but they did not discover San Francisco Bay. On leaving New +Albion, Drake sailed the <i>Golden Hind</i> across the Pacific to the +East Indies and the Indian Ocean, and round the Cape of Good Hope home +to England, with all the treasure he had taken. The queen received him +with great honors and his ship was kept a hundred years in memory of +the brave admiral, who had commanded it on this voyage. +</p> +<p> +During the next century several English commanders of vessels sailed +the South Sea while hunting Spanish galleons to capture, and these +ships often touched at Lower California for fresh water. Some of +the captains explored the coast and traded with the Indians, but no +settlements were made. +</p> +<p> +Then the Spanish tried to find and settle the country they had heard +so many reports of, thinking to provide stations where their trading +ships might anchor for supplies and protection. Viscaino, on his +second voyage for this purpose, landed at San Diego in 1602. Sailing +on to the island he named Santa Catalina, Viscaino found there a tribe +of fine-looking Indians who had large houses and canoes. They were +good hunters and fishermen and clothed themselves in sealskins. +Viscaino went on to Monterey and finally as far north as Oregon, but +owing to severe storms, and to sickness among his sailors, he was +obliged to return to Mexico. +</p> +<p> +For a long time after this failure to settle upon the coast, the +Spanish came to Lower California for the pearl-fisheries. Along the +Gulf of California were many oyster-beds where the Indians secured +the shells by diving for them. Large and valuable pearls were found +in many of the oysters, and the Spanish collected them in great +quantities from the Indians who did not know their real value. +</p> +<p> +In this peninsula of Lower California fifteen Missions, or +settlements, each having a church, were founded by Padres of the +Jesuits. But later the Jesuits were ordered out of the country, and +their Missions turned over to the Franciscan order of Mexico. +</p> +<p> +With the coming of the Franciscans a new period of California's +history began. Spain wished to settle Alta California, or that region +north of the peninsula, and Father Serra, the head and leader of these +Franciscans, was chosen to begin this work. +</p> +<p> +How he did this, and how he and his followers founded the California +Missions you will read in the story of that time. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_4"><!-- RULE4 4 --></a> +<h2> + THE STORY OF THE MISSIONS AND OF FATHER SERRA +</h2> + +<p> +The old Missions of California are landmarks that remind us of Father +Serra and his band of faithful workers. There were twenty-one of their +beautiful churches, and though some are ruined and neglected, others +like the Mission Dolores of San Francisco and the Santa Barbara and +Monterey buildings are still in excellent condition. From San Diego to +San Francisco these Missions were located, about thirty miles apart, +and so well were the sites chosen that the finest cities of the state +have grown round the old churches. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1005.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1005.jpg" alt="FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA" width="150" height="141" border="0"> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Father Junipero Serra was the president and leader of the Franciscan +missionaries and the founder of the Missions. He had been brought up +in Spain, and had dreamed from his boyhood of going to the New +World, as the Spanish called America, to tell the savages how to be +Christians. He began his work as a missionary in Mexico and there +labored faithfully among the Indians for nearly twenty years. But as +his greatest wish was to preach to those in unknown places he was glad +to be chosen to explore Alta or Upper California. +</p> +<p> +Marching by land from Loreto, a Mission of Lower California, Father +Serra, with Governor Portola and his soldiers, reached San Diego in +1769. Here he planted the first Mission on California ground. The +church was a rude arbor of boughs, and the bells were hung in an oak +tree. Father Serra rang the bells himself, and called loudly to the +wondering Indians to come to the Holy Church and hear about Christ. +But the natives were suspicious and not ready to listen to the good +man's teachings, and several times they attacked the newcomers. +Finally, after six years, they burnt the church and killed one of the +missionaries. But later on there was peace, and the priests, or Padres +as they were called, taught the Indians to raise corn and wheat, and +to plant olive orchards and fig trees, and grapes for wine. They built +a new church and round it the huts, or cabins, of the Indians, the +storehouses, and the Padre's dwelling. In the early morning the bells +called every member of the Mission family to a church service. After a +breakfast of corn and beans they spent the morning in outdoor work or +in building. At noon either mutton or beef was served with corn and +beans, and at two o'clock work began again, to last till evening +service. A supper of corn-meal mush was the Indians' favorite +meal. They had many holidays, when their amusements were dancing, +bull-fighting, or cock-fighting. +</p> +<p> +San Diego, called the Mother Mission, because it is the oldest church, +is now also most in ruins. But its friends hope to put new foundations +under the old walls, and to recap firm ones with cement, and preserve +this monument of early California history. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Mission church, Monterey" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1012a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1012a.jpg" width="150" height="148" border="0" + alt="MISSION CHURCH, MONTEREY."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">MISSION CHURCH, <br>MONTEREY. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +After Father Serra had started the San Diego settlement he set sail +for Monterey. Landing at Monterey Bay, he built an altar under a large +oak tree, hung the Mission bells upon the boughs, and held the usual +services. The Spanish soldiers fired off their guns in honor of the +day and put up a great cross. The Indians had never heard the sound of +guns and were so frightened that they ran away to the mountains. The +second Mission was built on the Carmel River, a little distance from +the site of the first altar. This was called San Carlos of Monterey, +and the settlement was the capital of Alta California for many years. +It was also the Mission that Father Serra loved the best, and after +every trip to other and newer settlements he returned to San Carlos as +his home. This Monterey Mission is well preserved, and books, carved +church furniture, and embroidered robes used in the old services are +still shown. +</p> +<p> +At both San Diego and Monterey a presidio, or fort, was built for the +soldiers. These forts had one or two cannon brought from Spain, and +had around them high walls, or stockades, to protect, if it should be +necessary, the Mission people from the Indians. The cannon were fired +on holidays, or to frighten troublesome Indians. +</p> +<p> +All the Mission buildings were of brown clay made into large bricks +about a foot and a half long and broad, and three or four inches +thick. These bricks, dried in the sun, were called adobes, and were +plastered together and made smooth by a mortar of the same clay. +Then the walls were coated outside and inside with a lime stucco and +whitewashed. The roof timbers were covered with hollow red tiles, each +like the half of a sewer pipe, and these were laid to overlap each +other so that they kept the rain out. The floors were of earth beaten +hard, and the windows had bars or latticework, but no glass. The large +church was snowy white within and without and had pictures brought +from Spain and much carved furniture, such as chairs, benches, and +the pulpit made by the Indians. One or two round-topped towers and +five or six belfries, each holding a large bell, were on the church roof, +and a great iron cross at the very top. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Old San Diego Mission, Founded 1769" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1012b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1012b.jpg" alt="OLD SAN DIEGO MISSION. Founded 1769." + width="150" height="138" border="0"> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">OLD SAN DIEGO MISSION. <br>Founded 1769. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Night and morning the Mission bells rang to call the Indians to mass +or service, and chimes or tunes were rung on holidays or for weddings. +These Mission bells were brought from Spain, and it was thought a +blessing rested on the ship which carried them, and that shipwreck +could not come to such a vessel. We read of one captain joyfully +receiving the Mission bells to take to San Diego. When nearing the +coast his vessel struck a rock, yet passed on in safety because, as +he said, no harm could happen with the bells on board. On his journeys +every missionary carried a bell with him for the new church he was to +build. Father Serra's first act on reaching a stopping-place was to +hang the bell in a tree and ring it to gather the Indians and people +for service. +</p> +<p> +San Antonio, a very successful Mission, was the third one established, +and it was in a beautiful little valley of the Santa Lucia Mountains. +Every kind of fruit grew in its orchards, and the Indians there were +very happy and contented, and in large workshops made cloth, saddles, +and other things. San Gabriel, not far from Los Angeles and sometimes +called the finest church of all, was the next to be built. This was +the richest of the Missions and had great stores of wool, wheat, and +fruit, which the hard-working Indians earned and gave to the church. +The Indians, indeed, were almost slaves, and worked all their +lives for the Padres without rest or pay. At San Gabriel the first +California flour-mill worked by a stream of water turning the wheel, +was put up. Some of the old palms and olive trees are still growing +there. +</p> +<p> +San Juan Capistrano, founded in 1776, was one of the best-known +Missions, for it had a seaport of its own at San Juan. Vessels came to +its port for the hides and tallow of thousands of cattle herded round +the Mission. The first fine church of this Mission was destroyed by +an earthquake, and many people were killed by its falling roof. It was +rebuilt, however, and still shows its fine front, and long corridors +or porches round a hollow square where a garden and fountain used to +be. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Mission Dolores. Established 1776" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1021b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1021b.jpg" alt="MISSION DOLORES. Established 1776." + width="144" height="150" border="0"> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">MISSION DOLORES.<br>Established 1776. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Old records tell us that Father Serra felt that there should be a +church named in honor of Francis, who was the founder and patron saint +of the Franciscan brotherhood of monks to which these missionaries +belonged. When Father Serra spoke of this to Galvez, that priest +replied, "If our good Saint Francis wants a Mission, let him show us +that fine harbor up above Monterey and we will build him one there." +Several explorers had failed to find this port about which Indians had +spoken to the Spanish. At last Ortega discovered it, and Father Palou, +in 1776, consecrated the Mission of San Francisco. Near the spot was +a small lake called the "Laguna de los Dolores," and from this the +church was at last known as the Mission Dolores. But the great city +bears the Spanish name of Saint Francis, or San Francisco. A fort +was erected where the present Presidio stands, and later a battery +of cannon was placed at Black Point. It is told that the Indians were +very quarrelsome here and fought so among themselves that the Padres +could get no church built for a year. In that part of San Francisco +called the Mission, the old building with its odd roof and three of +the ancient bells is a very interesting place to visit. There are +pictures, and other relics of the past to see, and in the graveyard +many of San Francisco's early settlers were buried. This was the sixth +Mission of Alta California. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Santa Barbara Mission, Founded 1786" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1028.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1028.jpg" alt="SANTA BARBARA MISSION. Founded 1786." + width="148" height="150" border="0"> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">SANTA BARBARA MISSION. <br>Founded 1786. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +The Santa Barbara Mission, where Franciscan fathers still live, has +a fine church with double towers and a long row of two-story adobe +buildings enclosing a hollow square where a beautiful garden is kept. +One of the brotherhood, wearing a long brown robe just as Father Serra +did, takes visitors into the church, and also shows them the garden +and a large carved stone fountain. This church is built of sandstone +with two large towers and a chime of six bells, and was finished in +1820. +</p> +<p> +The Santa Ynez Mission was much damaged by the heavy earthquake that +in 1812 ruined other Missions. Here the Indians raised large crops +of wheat and herded many cattle. Over a thousand Indians, it is said, +attacked this church in 1822, but the priest in charge frightened them +away by firing guns. This warlike conduct so displeased the Padres, +who wished the natives ruled by kindness, that the poor priest was +sent away from the Mission. +</p> +<p> +One of the early Missions was San Luis Obispo, where services are +still held. It was specially noted for a fine blue cloth woven by +the Indians from the wool of the Mission flocks of sheep. The Indians +there also wove blankets, and cloth from cotton raised upon their own +lands. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Mission San Luis Rey, Founded 1798" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1021a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1021a.jpg" alt="MISSION SAN LUIS REY. Founded 1798." + width="150" height="137" border="0"> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">MISSION SAN LUIS REY. <br>Founded 1798. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +San Juan Bautista, or St. John the Baptist, north of Monterey, had a +splendid chime of nine bells said to have been brought from Peru and +to have very rich, mellow tones. San Miguel had a bell hung up on a +platform in front of the church, and now at Santa Ysabel, sixty miles +from San Diego, where the Mission itself is only a heap of adobe +ruins, two bells hang on a rude framework of logs. The Indian +bell-ringer rings them by a rope fastened to each clapper. The bells +were cast in Spain and much silver jewellery and household plate were +melted with the bell-metal. Near them the Diegueño Indians worship in +a rude arbor of green boughs with their priest, Father Antonio, who +has worked for thirty years among the tribe. They live on a rancheria +near by and are making adobe bricks, hoping soon to build a church +like the old Mission long since crumbled away. +</p> +<p> +The last of the Missions was built in 1823 at Sonoma, and proved very +active in church work, some fifteen hundred Indians having been there +baptized. +</p> +<p> +Father Junipero Serra died at more than seventy years of age, at San +Carlos. During all his life in America he endured great hardships +and suffering to bring the gospel to the heathen as he had dreamed of +doing in his boyish days. A monument to his memory has been erected +at Monterey by Mrs. Stanford, but the Missions he founded are his best +and most lasting remembrances. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_5"><!-- RULE4 5 --></a> +<h2> + BEFORE THE GRINGOS CAME +</h2> + +<p> +This is the story Señora Sanchez told us children as we sat on the +sunny, rose-covered porch of her old adobe house at Monterey one +summer afternoon. And as she talked of those early times she worked +at her fine linen "drawn-work" with bright, dark eyes that needed no +glasses for all her eighty years and snow-white hair. +</p> +<p> +"When I was a girl, California was a Mexican republic," said the +Señora, "and Los Gringos, as we called the Americans, came in ships +from Boston. They brought us our shoes and dresses, our blankets and +groceries; all kinds of goods, indeed, to trade for hides and tallow, +which was all our people had to sell in those days. For no one raised +anything but cattle then, and all summer long cows cropped the +rich clover and wild oats till they were fat and ready to kill. In +the fall the Indians and vaqueros, or cowboys as you children call +them, drove great herds of cattle to the Missions near the ocean where +the Gringos came with their ship-loads of fine things and waited for +trading-days. +</p> +<p> +"For weeks every one worked hard, killing the cattle, stripping off +their skins and hanging the green or fresh hides over poles to dry in +the sun. When dried hard and stiff as a board the skins were folded +hair-side in, and were then worth about two dollars apiece. The +beef-suet, or fat, from these cattle was put into large iron kettles +and melted. While still hot it was dipped out with wooden dippers +into rawhide bags, each made from an animal's skin. When cold and hard +these bags of tallow were sewed up with leather strings, and thus they +were taken to Boston. +</p> +<p> +"So much beef was on hand at such times that not even the hungry +Indians could eat it all while it was fresh. The nicest pieces were +cut into long strips, dipped into a boiling salt brine full of hot +red peppers and hung up to dry where the sunshine soon turned the meat +into carne seca, or dried beef. We put it away in sacks, and very good +it was all the year for stews, and to eat with the frijoles, or red +beans, and tortillas, which were corn-cakes. +</p> +<p> +"All we bought from the Gringos was paid for with hides and tallow, +so it was well, you see, children, that my father owned ten thousand +cattle; for counting relatives and Indian servants, we always had more +than thirty people on our ranch to feed and clothe. We raised grain +and corn and beans enough for the family, but had to buy sugar, +coffee, and such things. +</p> +<p> +"Did we have many horses, you say? Yes, droves of them, and we almost +lived on horseback, for no one walked if he could help it, and there +were almost no carriages or roads. Neither were there any barns or +stables, for the mustangs, or tough little ponies, fed on the wild +grass and took care of themselves. Every morning a horse was caught, +saddled and bridled, and tied by the door ready to use. All the ladies +rode, too, and I often used to ride twenty miles to a dance with Juan, +my young husband, and back again in a day or so. +</p> +<p> +"Sometimes we went to the rodeo, where once a year the great herds of +cattle were driven into corrals, and each ranchero or farmer picked +out his own stock. Then those young calves or yearlings not already +marked were branded with their owner's stamp by a red-hot iron that +burnt the mark into the skin. After that the bellowing, frightened +animals were turned out to roam the grassy plains for another year. We +had plenty of feasting and merry-making at these rodeos, and a whole +ox was roasted every day for the hungry crowds, so no one went fasting +to bed. +</p> +<p> +"Those were gay times, my children," and Señora Sanchez sighed and +sewed quietly for a while till Harry asked her if they kept Christmas +before the Gringos came. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: A Christmas Garden" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1103b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1103b.jpg" width="150" height="171" border="0" + alt="A CHRISTMAS GARDEN."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">A CHRISTMAS GARDEN. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +"Yes, indeed," she said, laughing, "we kept Christmas for a week, +and all our friends and relatives were welcome, so that our big +ranch-house was full of company. Indeed, some of the visitors slept in +hammocks or rolled up in blankets on the verandas. Our house was built +round the four sides of a square garden, with wide porches, where we +sat on pleasant days. There was a fountain in this garden, and orange +trees, which at Christmas-time hung full of golden fruit and sweet +white flowers. On 'the holy night,' as we called Christmas Eve, we +hung lanterns in the porches, and everybody crowded there or in the +garden for their gifts. +</p> +<p> +"No, we had no Santa Claus nor Christmas tree, but my father gave +presents to all, even to the Indian servants and their children. A fan +or a string of pearls, perhaps, for my sisters, the young Señoritas; a +fine saddle or a velvet jacket for my brother; and red blankets or gay +handkerchiefs for the Indians, with sacks of beans or sweet potatoes +to eat with their Christmas feast of roast ox or a fat sheep. +Afterwards we danced till morning came, or sang to the sweet tinkle +of the guitars. Well do I remember, children, when the good Padres, +or priests, at the Mission forbade us to waltz, that new dance the +Gringos had taught us to like. I recall, also, that the governor only +laughed and said that the young folks could waltz if they wished. +So at my wedding, soon after, when we danced from Tuesday noon till +Thursday morning, you may be sure we had many a waltz. +</p> +<p> +"Pretty dresses, Edith? Yes, gay, bright silk or satin ones, with many +ruffles on the skirts and wide collars and sleeves of lace, or yellow +satin slippers and always a high comb of silver or tortoise-shell and +a spangled fan. And we had long gold and coral earrings and strings of +pearls from the Gulf, and, see!" as she pulled aside her neck-scarf, +"here is the necklace of gold beads that was my wedding gift. We +had no hats or bonnets, but wore black lace shawls, or mantillas, to +church, or twisted long silk scarfs over our heads to go riding. +</p> +<p> +"You will think the gentlemen were fine dandies in those Mexican days, +when I tell you that they often wore crimson velvet knee trousers +trimmed with gold lace, embroidered white shirts, bright green cloth +or velvet jackets with rows and rows of silver buttons, and red sashes +with long, streaming ends. Their wide-brimmed sombrero hats were +trimmed with silver or gold braid and tassels. They dressed up their +horses with beautiful saddles and bridles of carved leather worked +all over with gold or silver thread and gay with silver rosettes or +buttons. Each gentleman wore a large Spanish cloak of rich velvet or +embroidered cloth, and if it rained, he threw over his fine clothes +a serape, or square woollen blanket with a slit cut in the middle for +the head. +</p> +<p> +"Los Gringos used to laugh at the Mexican and his cloak, and not long +after they came the 'Greasers,' as the Americans called the young men +born here in California, began to wear the ugly clothes the Gringos +brought out from Boston. And so the times changed, children, and our +people learned to do everything as the Americans did it and to work +hard and save money instead of dancing and idling away the time. +</p> +<p> +"And the bull-fights, Harry? Oh, yes, there was a bull-fight every +Sunday afternoon, and everybody went, as you do to the football games. +The ladies clapped their hands if the sport was good, or if the bull +was killed by the brave swordsman. And if the men got hurt or the +horses,—well, we only thought that was part of the game, you see. El +toro, as we called the bull, always tried to save himself; and if he +was savage and cruel, that was his nature, to try to kill his enemies. +The gay dresses and the music was what I cared for, and then all my +friends were there, also. +</p> +<p> +"But you must be tired of my old stories; is it not so, my children? +No, you want to hear about the dances, you say? Well, every party was +a dance; a fandango or ball, if it was given in a hall where everybody +could come, but at houses where just the people came who were invited +we called it only a dance. Every old grandfather or little girl, even, +danced all night long, and the rooms were hung with flags and wreaths. +All the Spanish dances were pretty, and the ladies with their gay +dresses and mantillas, and the gentlemen in velvet suits trimmed +with gold, made a fine picture. At the cascarone, or egg-shell dance, +baskets of egg-shells filled with cologne or finely cut tinsel or colored papers +were brought into the room, and the game was to crush these shells +over the dancers' heads. If your hair got wet with cologne or full of +gilt paper, everybody laughed, and you laughed too, for that was the +game, you know. Ah, there was plenty of merry-making and feasting in +those days, children," and Señora Sanchez sighed again and went on +with her "drawn-work," while the bell in the old Mission church near +by rang five o'clock, and we children ran home talking of those old +times before the Gringos came to California. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_6"><!-- RULE4 6 --></a> +<h2> + THE AMERICANS AND THE BEAR-FLAG REPUBLIC +</h2> + +<p> +While Spain owned Mexico and the two Californias, the Missions were at +their best and grew rich in stores of grain and in cattle and horses. +Almost all the people were Spanish or Indians, and they lived at the +Missions or in ranches near by. But when Mexico in 1822 refused to be +ruled by Spain, Alta or Upper California became a Mexican territory, +and, later on, a republic with governors sent from Mexico. The Mission +Padres did not like the change, and thought that Spain should still +own the New World. Before long it was ordered that the Missions should +be turned into pueblos, or towns, and that the Padres were no longer +to make slaves of the Indians. The missionaries were to stay as +priests, and to teach the Indians in schools, but the Mission lands +were to be divided so that each Indian family might have a small farm +to cultivate. From that time the Missions began to decay and were +finally given up to ruin. +</p> +<p> +Then Americans began to come in, the first party of hunters and +trappers travelling from Salt Lake City to the San Gabriel Mission. +All kept talking of the rich country where farming was so easy, and +they wished to have land. But the Mexicans and the native Californians +did not believe in allowing the Americans, as they called all the +people from the Eastern states, to take up their farming lands and +hunt and trap the wild animals. So there was much quarrelling. But the +Americans still poured in, got land grants, and built houses. +</p> +<p> +In 1836, though Alta California declared itself a free state, and no +longer looked to Mexico for support, Mexican rule still continued. The +United States had wanted California for a long time, and had tried to +buy it from Mexico. The fine bay and harbor of San Francisco, known +to be the best along the coast, was especially needed by the United +States as a place to shelter or repair ships on their way to the +Oregon settlements. England also wanted this bay, but the Californians +tried to keep every one out of their country. +</p> +<p> +Among the Americans who came overland and across the Rocky Mountains +about this time was John C. Fremont, a surveyor and engineer, who was +called the "Pathfinder." On his third trip to the Pacific Coast in '46 +he wished to spend the winter near Monterey, with his sixty hunters +and mountaineers. Castro, the Mexican general, ordered him to leave +the country at once, but Fremont answered by raising the American flag +over his camp. As Castro had more men, Fremont did not think it wise +to fight, but marched away, intending to go north to Oregon. He turned +back in the Klamath country on account of snow and Indians, as he +said, and camped where the Feather River joins the Sacramento. It +is almost certain that Fremont wished to provoke Castro and the +Californians into war, and so to capture the country for the United +States. +</p> +<p> +A party of Fremont's men rode down to Sonoma, where there was a +Mission, and also a presidio with a few cannon in charge of General +Vallejo. These men captured the place and sent Vallejo and three +other prisoners back to Fremont's camp. Then the independent Americans +concluded to have a new republic of their own, and a flag also. So +they made the famous "Bear-flag" of white cloth, with a strip of red +flannel sewed on the lower edge, and on the white they painted in +red a large star and a grizzly bear, and also the words "California +Republic." They then raised the flag over the Bear-flag Republic. Many +Americans joined their party, but when the American flag went up at +Monterey, the stars and stripes replaced the bear-flag. +</p> +<p> +At this time the United States and Mexico were at war on account +of Texas, and Commodore Sloat was in charge of the warships on the +Pacific Coast. The commodore had been told to take Alta California, +if possible; so, sailing to Monterey, he raised the stars and stripes +there in July, 1846, and ended Mexican power forever. The American +flag flew at the San Francisco Presidio two days later, and also at +Sonoma, Sutter's Fort, or wherever there were Americans. The flag was +greeted with cheers and delight. Then Commodore Sloat turned the naval +force over to Stockton and returned home, leaving all quiet north of +Santa Barbara. +</p> +<p> +Commodore Stockton sent Fremont and his men to San Diego and, taking +four hundred soldiers, went himself to Los Angeles, where the native +Californians and Mexicans were determined to fight against the rule of +the United States. General Castro and his men and Governor Pico, +the last of the Mexican governors, were driven out of the country. +Stockton then declared that Upper and Lower California were to be +known as the "Territory of California." +</p> +<p> +In less than a month, however, the Californians in the south gathered +their forces again and took Los Angeles. General Kearny was sent out +with what was called the "army of the west," to assist Fremont and +Stockton in settling the trouble. Peace was declared after several +battles, and Kearny acted as governor of the new territory, displacing +Fremont. At last, by the treaty which closed the Mexican war in 1848 +Alta California became the property of the United States, and Lower +California was left to Mexico. +</p> +<p> +From that time there was peace and quiet, and before long the +discovery of gold brought the new territory into great importance. The +rush to the gold mines brought thousands of men, and as no government +had been provided for the territory, Governor Riley in '49 called a +convention to form a plan of government. +</p> +<p> +This Constitutional Convention of delegates from each of California's +towns met in Monterey. The constitution there drawn up lasted for +thirty years, and under it our great state was built up. It declared +that no slavery should ever be allowed here, and settled the present +eastern boundary line. +</p> +<p> +The first Thanksgiving Day for the territory was set by Governor +Riley, in '49. The first governor elected by California voters was +Burnett, and in the first legislature Fremont and Gwin were chosen +as senators. Congress at last admitted California into the Union by +passing the California bill. On September 9, 1850, President Fillmore +signed the bill. +</p> +<p> +Every year on the 9th of September, or "Admission Day," we therefore +keep our state's birthday. At San Jose, in '99, a Jubilee Day was +held in remembrance of the beginning of state government fifty years before. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_7"><!-- RULE4 7 --></a> +<h2> + THE DAYS OF GOLD AND THE ARGONAUTS OF 1849 +</h2> + +<p> +California has well earned her name of "Golden State," for from her +rich mines gold to the value of thirteen hundred millions has been +taken. Yet every year she adds seventeen millions more to the world's +stock of gold. No country has produced more of this precious yellow +metal that men work and fight and die for. The "gold belt" of the +state still holds great wealth for miners to find in years to come. +</p> +<p> +Long, long ago people knew that gold was here, for in 1510 a Spanish +novel speaks of "that island of California where a great abundance +of gold and precious stones is found." In 1841 the Indians near San +Fernando Mission washed out gold from the river-sands, and other mines +were found not far from Los Angeles. +</p> +<p> +But James W. Marshall was the man who started the great excitement +of '48 and '49 by finding small pieces of gold at a place now called +Coloma, on the American River. Marshall, who was born in New Jersey, +came to this state in 1847, and being a builder wished to put up +houses, sawmills, and flour-mills. Finding that lumber was very +dear, he decided to build a sawmill to exit up the great trees on the +river-bank. He had no money, but John A. Sutter, knowing a mill was +needed there, gave Marshall enough to start with. +</p> +<p> +So the mill was built, and when it was ready to run Marshall found +that the mill-race, or ditch for carrying the water to his mill-wheel, +was not deep enough. He turned a strong current of water into it, +and this ran all night. Then it was shut off, and next day the ditch +showed where the stream had washed it deeper and had left a heap +of sand and gravel at the end of it. Here Marshall saw some shining +little stones, and picking them up he laid one on a rock and hammered +it with another till he saw how quickly it changed its shape. He was +sure that these bright, heavy, easily hammered pebbles were gold, but +the men working about the mill would not believe it. So he went to +Sutter, who lived near at a place called Sutter's Fort, because his +stores, house, and other buildings were built around a hollow square +with high walls outside to keep off the Indians. Sutter weighed the +little yellow lumps and said they certainly were gold. +</p> +<p> +The flood-gates between the mill-race and the river were opened again, +and water ran through the ditch, washing more gold in sight. Sutter +picked up enough of this to make a ring and had these words marked on +it:— +</p> +<p> +"The first gold found in California, January, 1848." +</p> +<p> +Both Sutter and Marshall tried to keep what they had found a secret, +but that was impossible, and soon people were flocking to the +gold-fields. Then began a wild excitement known as the "gold-fever," +and men left their stores and houses, gave up business, and left crops +ungathered in a wild chase after nuggets of gold. +</p> +<p> +By December of 1848, thousands of miners were washing for gold +all along the foot-hills from the Tuolumne River to the Feather, +a distance of 150 miles. A hundred thousand men came to California +during 1849, these Argonauts, or gold-hunters, taking ship or steamer +for the long trip from New York by the Isthmus of Panama. Some went +round Cape Horn, or else made a weary journey overland across the +plains. "To the land of gold" was their motto, and these pioneers +endured every hardship to reach this "Golden State." +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Placer Gold Mining." +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1037b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1037b.jpg" alt="PLACER GOLD MINING. Washing with Cradle." + width="149" height="150" border="0"> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">PLACER GOLD MINING. <br>Washing with Cradle. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Then the miners, with pick, shovel, and pan for washing out gold from +the gravel it was found in, started out "prospecting" for "pay-dirt." +The gold-diggings were usually along the rivers, and this surface, or +"placer," mining was done by shovelling the "pay-dirt" into a pan or a +wooden box called a cradle, and rocking or shaking this box from side +to side while pouring water over the earth. The heavy gold, either +in fine scales or dust, or in lumps called nuggets, dropped to the +bottom, while the loose earth ran out in a muddy stream. The rich sand +left in pan or cradle was carefully washed again and again till only +precious, shining gold remained. +</p> +<p> +So rich were some of the sand bars along the American and Feather +rivers that the first miners made a thousand dollars a day even by +this careless way of washing gold where much of it was lost. Then +again for days or weeks the miner found nothing at all. He would +wander up and down the cañons and gulches, prospecting for another +claim, and dreaming day and night of finding a stream with golden +sands, or of picking up rich nuggets. If he found good "diggings" he +would build a rough shanty under the pines, and dig and wash till the +gold-bearing sand or gravel gave out again. Sometimes he had a partner +and a donkey, or burro, to carry tools and pack supplies. More often +the Argonaut cooked his own bacon and slapjacks and simmered his beans +over a lonely camp-fire, and slept wrapped in a blanket under the +trees. If he had much gold, he would go to the nearest town, buy food +enough for another prospecting tramp, and often spend all the rest of +his money in foolish waste. +</p> +<p> +Sometimes a company of miners would build a dam across a river or +stream, and turn it from its course, so they could dig out and wash +the rich gravel in the river-bed. A flume, or ditch, would often carry +all the water to a lower part of the river, leaving the bed of the +upper stream dry for miles. In this kind of mining the "pay-dirt" was +shovelled into long wooden boxes called sluices, and a constant stream +of water kept the gravel and earth moving on out to a dumping-place. +The gold dropped down or settled into riffles, or spaces between bars +placed across the bottom of the sluices, and once a week the water was +turned off and a "clean-up" made of the gold. +</p> +<p> +It was not long before the rivers, creeks, and gulches had all been +worked over and most of the gold taken out. The miners knew that this +loose gold had been washed out of the hills by the rains and storms of +countless years. So some one thought of using a heavy stream of water +to break down the foot-hills themselves and to carry the gold-bearing +gravel to sluice boxes. This is called hydraulic mining and is the +cheapest way of handling earth, as water does all the work and +very little shovelling is needed. But since a strong water-power is +necessary, a large reservoir and miles of ditches or wooden flumes +must be built, so the first expense is large. The water usually comes +from higher up in the mountains, and is forced under great pressure +through iron pipes, the nozzle or "giant" being directed at the +hillside, which has already been shattered by heavy blasts of powder. +The water tears thousands of tons of earth and gravel apart, and the +muddy stream flows through sluices, where the gold is left. In this +kind of mining a great quantity of débris, or "tailings," must be +disposed of. +</p> +<p> +For years this débris was washed into the rivers or on farming lands, +filling up and ruining both, and leading to endless quarrels between +farmers and miners. But at last the courts stopped hydraulic mining +except in northern counties, where débris went into the Klamath River, +upon which no boats could run and near which was little farming. But +all the mines in the Sacramento and San Joaquin river-basins were idle +till, in 1893, Congress appointed a débris Commission. These mining +engineers issue licenses to work the mines when satisfied that the +débris will be kept out of the rivers. There are in the state many +hundred thousand acres of gold-bearing gravel lands yet untouched, +that could be worked by hydraulic mining. +</p> +<p> +In drift-mining the rich gravel is covered by hard lava rock thrown +up by some old volcanic outburst. Tunnels are driven by blasting with +dynamite, or by drilling under the rock to reach the gravel which +usually lies in the buried channel of an old river. The long drifts, +or tunnels, needed are very expensive and only mine owners with +capital can work these claims. +</p> +<p> +Richest of all are the quartz mines, where beautiful white rock, rich +with sparkling gold, is found in veins, or "lodes," cropping out of +hillsides or dipping down under the earth. The great "Mother-lode" +of our state runs like an underground wall across Amador, Calaveras, +Tuolumne, and Mariposa counties and has been traced for eighty miles. +</p> +<p> +Some poor miner usually finds a ledge of quartz-rock and digs down the +way the ledge goes. He puts up a windlass, worked by hand, over the +well-like hole he has dug out, and hoists the ore out in buckets. But +he soon finds, as the hole or shaft goes deeper, that he must timber +the sides to keep them from caving in, that he must have an engine to +raise the ore and a mill to crush the hard rock. So he sells out to a +company of men, who put in costly machinery, deepen the shaft, and by +heavy expenditure get large returns. +</p> +<p> +The quartz ledges dip and turn, so tunnels and cross-cuts are run to +follow the golden vein, and all these are timbered with heavy wooden +supports to keep the earth and rock from falling in on the men. The +miners work in day and night gangs, using dynamite to break up the +hard rock, and sending ore up in great iron buckets, or in cars if the +tunnel ends in daylight, on the hillside. Sometimes the miners +strike water, and that must be pumped out to keep the mine from being +flooded. +</p> +<p> +The ore is crushed by heavy stamps, or hammers, and then mixed with +water and quicksilver. This curious metal, quicksilver, or mercury, +is fond of gold and hunts out every little bit, the two metals mixing +together and making what is called an amalgam. This is heated in an +iron vessel, and the quicksilver goes off in steam or vapor, leaving +the gold free. The quicksilver, being valuable, is saved and used +again, while the gold, now called bullion, is sent to the mint to be +coined into bright twenties, or tens, or five-dollar pieces. +</p> +<p> +Some of the gold in the crushed ore will not mix with the quicksilver, +and this is treated to a bath of cyanide, a peculiar acid that melts +the gold as water does a lump of sugar. So all of value is saved, and +the worthless "tailings" go to the dump. Even the black sands on the +ocean beach have gold in them. In the desert also there is gold, which +is "dry-washed" by putting the sand into a machine and with a strong +blast of air blowing away all but the heavy scales of gold. +</p> +<p> +Though the Argonauts of '49 found much wealth in yellow gold, our +"Golden State," on hillsides, in river-beds, or deep down in hidden +quartz ledges, still holds great fortunes waiting to be found. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_8"><!-- RULE4 8 --></a> +<h2> + MINING STORIES +</h2> + +<p> +A large book might be filled with the stories told by the men +who found gold in the early days. Their "lucky strikes" in the +"dry-diggings" sound like fairy tales. Imagine turning over a big rock +and then picking up pieces of gold enough to half fill a man's hat +from the little nest that rock had been lying in for years and years! +</p> +<p> +And think of finding forty-three thousand dollars in a yellow lump +over a foot long, six inches wide and four inches thick! This was +the biggest nugget on record and actually weighed one hundred and +ninety-five pounds. The next one, too, you might have been glad to +pick up, as it held a hundred and thirty-three pounds of solid gold. +Little seventy-five and fifty-pound treasures were common, and a +soldier stopping to drink at a roadside stream found a nugget weighing +over twenty pounds lying close to his hand. +</p> +<p> +It paid to get up early those days, also for a man in Sonora, while +taking his morning walk, struck his foot against a large stone, and +forgot the pain when he saw the stone was nearly all gold. Another +man, with good eyes, got a fifty-pound nugget on a trail many people +used all the time. One day, after a heavy rain, a man who was leading +a mule and cart through a street in Sonora, noticed that the wheel +struck a big stone; he stooped to lift it out of the way, and found +the stone to be a lump of gold weighing thirty-five pounds. In less +than an hour all that part of the town and the street was staked off +into mining-claims, but no more was found. One of the largest of these +nuggets was found by three or four men, who took it to San Francisco +and the Eastern states, and exhibited it for money. They guarded the +precious thing day and night, but at last quarrelled so that it had to +be broken up and divided between them. +</p> +<p> +The first piece Marshall found was said to be worth about fifty cents, +and the second over five dollars. Almost all, though, that was found +was like beans or small seeds or in fine dust. No one tried to weigh +or measure such gold more correctly than to call a pinch between the +finger and thumb a dollar's worth, while a teaspoonful was an ounce, +or sixteen dollars' worth. A wineglassful meant a hundred dollars, +and a tumblerful a thousand. Miners carried their "dust" in a buckskin +bag, and this was put on the counter, and the storekeeper took out +what he thought enough to pay for the things the miner bought. A large +thumb to take a large pinch of the gold-dust meant a good many extra +dollars to the storekeeper in '48 and '49. Yet nearly every one was +honest, and gold might be left in an open tent untouched, for there +was plenty more to be had for the picking up. Those who would rather +steal than work were driven out of camp. +</p> +<p> +Some of the "sand bars," or banks of gravel and earth, washed down by +the Yuba River were so rich that the men could pick out a tin cupful +of gold day after day for weeks. One place was called Tin-cup Bar for +this reason. Spanish Bar, on the American River, yielded a million +dollars' worth of dust, and at Ford's Bar, a miner, named Ford, took +out seven hundred dollars a day for three weeks. At Rich Bar, on the +Feather River, a panful of earth gave fifteen hundred dollars. +</p> +<p> +Yet the miners were seldom satisfied, but were always prospecting for +richer claims. A man would shoulder his roll of blankets, his pick and +shovel, with a few cooking things, and start off hoping to find some +rich nugget, leaving a fairly good claim untouched. +</p> +<p> +The most extravagant prices were charged the miner for everything he +had to buy. Ten dollars apiece for pick and shovel, fifty more for a +pair of long boots, with bacon and potatoes at a dollar and a half a +pound, soon took all his gold-dust to pay for. A dozen fresh eggs cost +ten dollars, and a box of sardines half an ounce of gold-dust, which +was eight dollars. There was no butter to buy, for any milk was +quickly sold at a dollar a pint. The hotels charged three dollars a +meal, or a dollar for a dish of pork and beans, and a dollar for two +potatoes. +</p> +<p> +Lumber cost a dollar and a half a foot, but carpenters would not build +houses when they could make fifty dollars a day by mining. As there +was no lumber for the cabin floors, the ground was beaten hard and +really made a good floor. In Placerville the houses were built along +the bed of a ravine, and in sweeping these earthen floors some one saw +gold-dust glittering, and found that rich diggings were under foot. +Thereupon many of the miners dug up their cabin floors, and one man +took about twenty thousand dollars in nuggets and gold-dust from the +small space his cabin covered. +</p> +<p> +Very few women and children came to the mines in early days, and the +first white woman to arrive in a camp had all sorts of attentions. +Sometimes the town was named for the woman first in the place as +Sarahsville and Marietta. If a lady visited a mining-camp, the men far +and near would drop work and come in just to look at the visitor. One +lady, who sang for the miners on her arrival in their town, was given +about five hundred dollars' worth of gold-dust. +</p> +<p> +A child was a great curiosity, and any pretty little girl was sure to +have a collection of nuggets or a quantity of gold-dust presented to +her. The theatre and circus companies who visited mining-camps soon +found out that a little child who could sing or dance was a great +attraction. The miners used to throw a shower of money or nuggets at +the feet of such little favorites as we throw flowers now. +</p> +<p> +As there were no women living here for some time, the men having left +their families at home in the Eastern states, miners had to wash +and cook and make bread for themselves. Men who had been lawyers +or ministers at home, when there was no one else to do such things, +washed their dishes or their red flannel shirts. On Sunday no one +worked at mining, and the men baked bread and cleaned house, and +Sunday afternoons they dried, patched, and mended their clothes. If a +minister was in town, he held services on a hillside, or in the dining +room of some shanty called a hotel, and all the camp came to hear him +speak, or sang the hymns with him. +</p> +<p> +So the miners lived and worked and wandered along rivers and rough +mountain trails on the west side of the Sierras, gathering up gold +washed down by mountain streams. These Argonauts, or gold-seekers of +fifty years ago, are almost all dead now, but the treasures they found +made California known throughout the world. Their golden harvest has +made the state richer than they found it, for they used the wealth to +build cities, to cultivate farming-lands, and to plant orchards and +vineyards where the mining-camps used to be. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_9"><!-- RULE4 9 --></a> +<h2> + HOW POLLY ELLIOTT CAME ACROSS THE PLAINS +</h2> + +<p> +This is the story of a little girl who in 1849 rode all the way +from Ohio to California in an emigrant wagon. Polly Elliott has +grandchildren of her own now, but she remembers very well the spring +morning when her father came home and said to her mother, "Lizzie, +can you get ready to start for the land of gold next week?" She hears +again her mother saying, "Oh, John, with all these little children?" +She says her father answered by swinging her, the eleven-year-old +Polly, up to his shoulder and calling out, "Here's papa's little +woman; she'll help you take care of them," as he carried her round the +room, laughing. +</p> +<p> +This was "back East," as Polly Elliott, now Mrs. Davis, says,—in +Ohio, where they had a pretty white house set round with apple and +peach orchards all white and pink that May day. Her mother cried +because they must leave the house, and because they had to sell all +their furniture and the stock except Daisy, the pet cow, and Buck and +Bright, the oxen, who were to draw the wagon. A round-topped cover of +white cloth was fixed on the big farm-wagon. Then they piled into it +their bedding in calico covers, a chest or two holding clothes and +household goods, a few dishes and cooking things, and plenty of flour, +corn meal, beans, bacon, dried apples and peaches, tied up in sacks. +</p> +<p> +Polly says she supposed the trip would just be one long picnic, while +the four children thought it fine fun to "sit on mother's featherbed +and go riding," as they said. So they started off for California. +A long, long ride these emigrants had before them; a weary trip, +plodding along day after day with the patient oxen walking slowly and +the burning sun or pelting rain beating down on the wagon cover. There +was a train of other wagons with them, some pulled by horses but more +by yoked oxen, and the men walked beside the animals and cracked long +whips. A few men were on horseback, but all kept together, for Indians +were plenty and were often hiding near the road, watching for a chance +to cut off and capture any wagons lagging behind the party. +</p> +<p> +Day after day, Polly told me, they travelled westward to the setting +sun. They left the orchards and shady woods of Ohio and Indiana far +behind them, and crossed the wide prairies of Illinois and +Missouri also. When they came to rivers they drove through shallow +fording-places, where Polly and the children used to laugh to see the +little fishes swimming round the wagon wheels. Sometimes the rivers +were deep, and the wagons were ferried over on a flatboat that was +fastened to a wire rope, while oxen and horses swam through the water +behind them. If it did not rain, the children and all were happy, and +it did seem like a picnic. But Polly says she never hears the rain +pouring nowadays as it did then, and that there were many times when +they were wet and cold and miserable, and because the wood and ground +were wet they could not even have a fire. +</p> +<p> +At night the teams were unhitched and the wagons left in a circle +round a big camp-fire, where supper was cooked. Polly says her mother +used to bake biscuits in an iron spider with red-hot coals heaped on +its iron cover, and these biscuits with fried bacon and tea made +their meal. They always cooked a big potful of corn-meal mush for +the children, and this, with Daisy's milk and a little maple sugar or +molasses, was supper and breakfast too. Then the women and children +cuddled up in the wagons for the night, while men slept, wrapped in +blankets, around the camp-fire or under the wagons, with one always on +guard against danger from prowling Indians or wolves. +</p> +<p> +Every man or boy carried a rifle or shotgun, and killed plenty of +game. Deer and antelope were always in sight after they crossed the +Missouri River, and the meat was broiled or roasted over the coals of +their campfire. Wild turkeys and prairie-chicken tasted much better +than bacon, Polly said, and she learned to cook them herself. +</p> +<p> +When the emigrants reached Nebraska, they were in the "buffalo +country," and great herds of big, shaggy, brown or black buffaloes +were feeding on the grassy plains. The animals were larger than oxen, +and the Indians depended upon the flesh for food and the thick, warm +skins for robes or blankets. The emigrants shot thousands of buffalo +cows and calves, and what meat could not be eaten at once was cut +into long strips and hung in the sun or over the fire to dry. This +was called "jerking" the meat. On jerked buffalo or venison and flour +pancakes many emigrants lived all the way across. Game was so plenty +and so easy to shoot, that by stopping a few days, a good stock of +meat could be laid in while the oxen were resting. So they travelled +through Nebraska, and for weeks and weeks saw nothing but long grass +waving in the summer winds, and yellow sunflowers—miles and miles of +sunflowers. Polly grew very tired of the hot sun blazing down on the +close-covered wagon, and of the dust raised by the long wagon-train. +</p> +<p> +About this time she remembers that her father bought her a little +Indian pony, and from that happy day the child rode beside the wagon, +and could keep out of the dusty trail, or ride a little way off on the +prairie, if she liked. The pony carried double very well, so a small +sister or brother was often lifted on behind for a ride. One night +the Indians, who were always prowling round and coming as near the +wagon-train as they dared, frightened the horses and got away with ten +of them. All the women and children cried, Polly says, for they were +afraid the redskins would come back and kill them. In the morning +Polly's father and some of the men found the Indians' trail and +tracked them to a wooded cañon. The hungry thieves had killed one +horse and were so busy feasting on it that the white men surprised +them and shot all the Indians but two or three. The lost horses and +Polly's pony whinnied to their masters from a thicket, where they were +tied, and were taken back to camp. +</p> +<p> +On and on over the great plains of Wyoming the wagons carried these +emigrants. Many found the trip grow tiresome, while the oxen and mules +would often lie down in their traces and refuse to go any farther. A +few days' rest, and the rich bunch-grass to crop soon set the stock +all right, and the white-topped wagons crawled ahead again. Soon the +emigrants saw blue, hazy mountains, far off at first, then nearer and +nearer, till at last their road led through a pass between the peaks. +</p> +<p> +Then Polly remembers riding through Utah, with its queer red cliffs +and high rocks carved in strange shapes by winds and weather; the +stretches of sandy desert; and beyond those, grassy meadows and +streams fringed with green willows. After a while Great Salt Lake lay +sparkling in the sun and looking cool and blue. All around it were +alkali deserts or wide plains, hot and dusty and white with salt or +soda. The "prairie schooners," with their covers faded and burnt by +the sun, went very slowly over these desert wastes, Polly thought, +and Nevada, with its dusty gray sage-brush land on either side of the +road, seemed not much better. +</p> +<p> +"Papa's little woman" had her hands full now; for her mother was so +ill she seldom left the wagon. All the cooking fell to Polly's share, +and then she would ride along for hours with a little sister on her +lap and fat brother "Bub" behind her on the saddle-blanket, so that +her mother might rest and be quiet. +</p> +<p> +But soon the clear green Truckee River ran foaming and fretting beside +the road, and off in the west rose the snowy peaks of the Sierra +Nevada Mountains. Then the people began to laugh and to sing, for they +knew that California, the land of gold, was almost in sight and that +their weary journey was nearly ended. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Upper Sacremento River" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1037a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1037a.jpg" width="150" height="139" border="0" + alt="UPPER SACRAMENTO RIVER."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">UPPER SACRAMENTO RIVER. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +And one day they said joyfully to each other, "We are in California +at last;" and it was a happy company that travelled down through the +pines of the mountain sides and the oak trees of the foot-hills. Many +emigrants left the train when they got to the great Sacramento River +valley, and settled here and there to farming. Polly's father with +others kept on to the gold-diggings and camped there. He built a +log-cabin soon, for it was almost winter and time for the rains, and +Polly says she was glad to have a house at last. They finally took up +farming land near what is now Stockton, as gold-mining did not pay. +</p> +<p> +Mrs. Davis, who is straight and strong, and still a hard worker, says +her five months' trip across the plains was almost like a long picnic +after all, for she has forgotten many of the trying and disagreeable +things. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_10"><!-- RULE4 10 --></a> +<h2> + THE BUILDING OF THE OVERLAND RAILROAD +</h2> + +<p> +The army of emigrants and gold-hunters who crossed the plains to +California found it was a long and tiresome trip by wagon-train or on +horseback. The oxen or mules would sometimes get so tired that they +could go no farther; and because the food often ran short, there was +much suffering from hunger. +</p> +<p> +The longest way of all to California was by sailing vessel from New +York round Cape Horn, nearly nineteen thousand miles to San Francisco. +The passengers paid high prices and were six months on the way. Those +who came by the Panama route had trouble crossing the isthmus, where +it was so hot and unhealthy that many died of fevers and cholera. The +Pacific mail steamers connecting with a railroad across the isthmus +at last shortened the time of this trip of six thousand miles to +twenty-five days. For ten years all the Eastern mail came this way +twice a month. +</p> +<p> +It was thought a wonderful thing when the "pony express" carried mail +twice a week between St. Joseph, Missouri, where the Eastern railroads +ended, and Sacramento. To do this a rider, with the mail-bag slung +over his shoulder, rode a horse twenty-four miles to the next station, +where a fresh pony was ready. Hardly waiting to eat or sleep, the +rider galloped on again. Five dollars was often charged at that time +to bring the letter railroads carry now for two cents. +</p> +<p> +So you will see that a railroad to join California to the Eastern +states was a great necessity and had often been talked of. Several +ways to bring the iron horse puffing across the plains and up the +mountains with his long train of cars had been laid out on paper. The +emigrants had found that the best highway from the Missouri River +to California was to keep along the Platte River in Nebraska to Fort +Laramie and the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, then by Salt Lake, +and along the Humboldt and Truckee rivers, crossing the Sierras +at Donner Pass. Other roads were talked of, and Senator Benton of +Missouri favored a nearly straight line between St. Louis and San +Francisco. Some one, in objecting to this, said that only engineers +could lay out a railroad, and such men did not believe a straight line +possible. The senator answered: "There are engineers who never learned +in school the shortest and straightest way to go, and those are the +buffalo, deer, bear, and antelope, the wild animals who always find +the right path to the lowest passes in the mountains, to rich pastures +and salt springs, and to the shallow fords in the rivers. The Indians +follow the buffalo's path, and so does the white man for game +to shoot. Then the white man builds a wagon-road and at last his +railroad, on the trail the buffalo first laid out." +</p> +<p> +For two or three years surveyors and explorers tried to find the +easiest way to build this great overland road. Several railroad acts +or bills were passed by Congress, and the California Legislature gave +the United States the right of way for a road to join the two oceans. +</p> +<p> +The first railway in the state was opened in '56 from Sacramento to +Folsom, a distance of twenty-two miles. This was built by T.D. +Judah, an engineer who had thought and studied a great deal about the +overland road so much needed to bring mail and passengers quickly from +East to West. +</p> +<p> +A railroad convention, made up of men from the Pacific states and +territories, was held in San Francisco in '59, with General John +Bidwell, a pathfinder of early days, as the chairman. Here Mr. Judah +gave such a clear and full account of the central way he had +planned, that the convention sent him to Washington, D.C., to see the +President, and to try to get Congress to pass a Pacific Railroad +Bill. He had very little help in the East, but at last four men +of Sacramento, Leland Stanford, C.P. Huntington, Mark Hopkins, and +Charles Crocker, took an interest in Judah's plans, and in '61 the +Central Pacific Railroad Company was formed. Mr. Judah went back +to the mountains and studied the pines in summer and the winter +snowbanks, to make sure of the easiest grades and the shortest and +best way for the track-layers. He found that to follow the Truckee +River from near Lake Donner to the Humboldt Desert, would mean the +least work. The tunnels would be through rock, and he believed that +snow might easily be kept off the track with a snow-plough. +</p> +<p> +His report pleased the company, and they sent him again to present the +case at Washington. In '62 President Lincoln signed an act or bill to +allow the Union and Central Pacific companies to build a railroad and +a telegraph line from the Missouri River to the Pacific. In California +the land for fifteen miles on each side of the way laid out was given +to the railroad company, and two years was allowed them to build the +first hundred miles of track. +</p> +<p> +Ground was broken for the Central Pacific the next year in Sacramento, +and Governor Stanford dug up the first shovelful of earth. Then the +work went steadily on, but it was hard to raise money. Stanford +and his company carried the line forward as fast as possible. More +land-grants were given, which doubled the company's holdings, and in +'65 the road was fifty-five miles past Sacramento and had climbed over +much difficult work. +</p> +<p> +The steamship owners, the express and stage companies were all against +the railroad, and tried in every way to make people think that an +engine could never cross the Sierras. Yet the grading went on, while +an army of five thousand men and six hundred horses was at work +cutting down trees and hills and filling up the low places. A bridge +was built over the American River, and slowly but surely the track +climbed the steep mountain-sides. Most of the laborers were Chinese, +as white men found mining or farming paid them better. +</p> +<p> +In '67 the iron horse had not only climbed the mountains but had +reached the state line, and the Union Pacific, which had been laying +its tracks over the plains of the Platte River, began to hasten +westward. The two railroads were racing to meet each other, and the +Central sometimes laid ten miles of rails in one day. +</p> +<p> +Ogden was made the meeting-point, though at Promontory, fifty miles +west of Ogden, the last spike was driven. A thousand people met at +that place in May, '69, to see the short space of track closed and the +road finished. A Central train and locomotive from the Pacific came +steaming up, and an engine and cars from the Atlantic pulled in on +the other side. Both engines whistled till the snow-capped mountains +echoed. The last tie was of polished California laurel wood, with +a silver plate on which the names of the two companies and their +officers were engraved. It was put under the last two rails, and all +was fastened together with the last spike. This spike, made of solid +gold, Governor Stanford hammered into place with a silver hammer. East +and west the news was flashed over the long telegraph line, that the +overland railroad had been finished and that two oceans were joined by +iron rails. +</p> +<p> +Now, while flying along in the cars so fast that the trip from Chicago +to San Francisco takes but three days, it is hard to believe that +little more than thirty years ago travellers in the slow-moving +"prairie-schooner" took over five months to cover this same distance. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_11"><!-- RULE4 11 --></a> +<h2> + STORY OF THE WHEAT FIELDS +</h2> + +<p> +The Spanish Padres, as the Mission priests were called, taught the +Indians to plough and seed with wheat the lands belonging to the +church or Mission. They used a simple wooden plough, which oxen +pulled. When the warm brown earth was turned up, the Indians broke the +clods by dragging great tree branches over them. After the fall rains +they scattered tiny wheat kernels and covered them snugly for their +nap in the dark ground. +</p> +<p> +More rain fell, and soon the soaked seeds waked, and started in +slender green shoots to find the sunshine, and day by day the stalks +grew stronger and the fields greener. Higher and ever higher sprang +the wheat, till summer winds set the tall grain waving in a sea +of green billows. Have you ever watched the wind blow across a +wheat-field? Over and over the long rollers bend the tops of the +grain, that rise as the breeze goes on and bend low again at the next +breath of wind. +</p> +<p> +When the hot sun had ripened the grain, and all round the +white-walled, red-roofed Mission the fields stretched golden and ready +for harvest, the Indians cut the wheat, and scattering the bundles +over a spot of hard ground, drove oxen round and round on the sheaves +till the wheat was threshed out from the straw. Then Indian women +winnowed out the chaff and dirt by tossing the grain up in the wind, +or from basket to basket, till in this slow way the yellow kernels +were made clean and ready to grind. +</p> +<p> +A curious mill, called an arrastra, ground the grain between two heavy +stones. A wooden beam was fastened to the upper stone, and oxen or a +mule hitched to this beam turned the stone as they walked round. The +first flour-mill worked by water was put up at San Gabriel Mission, +and it was thought a wonderful thing indeed. +</p> +<p> +Even in those early days California wheat was known to be excellent, +and many ships came on the South Sea, as they then called the Pacific +Ocean, to load with grain for Mexico or Boston or England. Since that +time our state has fed countless people, and over a million acres of +valley and hill lands are green and golden every year with food for +the world. To Europe, to the swarming people of China, Japan, and +India, to South Africa and Australia, our grain is carried in great +ships and steamers, and hungry nations in many lands look to us for +bread. +</p> +<p> +For a long time after the Mission days, all the grain had to be hauled +to the rivers or sea-coast for shipping. Then the overland railroad +was finished, and within the next fifteen years an additional two +thousand miles of railways were built in California, and nearly every +mile opened up rich wheat land that had never been cultivated. Soon +great wheat ranches stretched far over the dry, hot valley plains. +</p> +<p> +The ground is ploughed and seeded after November rains, and all winter +the tender blades of grain grow greener and stronger day by day March +and April rains strengthen the crop wonderfully, and June and July +bring the harvest-time. As no rain falls then, the ripe wheat stands +in the field till cut, and afterward in sacks without harm. All the +work except ploughing is done by machinery, and this makes the wheat +cost less to raise, since a machine does the work of many men and the +expense of running it is small. +</p> +<p> +Some of the ranches have three or four thousand acres in wheat, and +it may interest you to know how such large farms are managed. The +ploughing is done by a gang-plough, as it is called, which has four +steel ploughshares that turn up the ground ten inches deep. Eight +horses draw this, and as a seeder is fastened to the plough, and back +of the plough a harrow, the horses plough, seed, harrow, and cover up +the grain at one time. There the seed-wheat lies tucked up in its warm +brown bed till rain and sunshine call out the tiny green spears, and +coax them higher and stronger, and the hot sun of June and July ripens +the precious grain. +</p> +<p> +Then a great machine called a "header and thresher" is driven into +the field and sweeps through miles and miles of bending grain, cutting +swaths as wide as a street, and harvesting, threshing, and leaving +a long trail of sacked wheat ready to ship on the cars. Thirty-six +horses draw the header, and five or six men are needed to attend to +this giant, who bites off the grain, shakes out the kernels, throws +them into sacks and sews them up, all in one breath, as you might say. +The harvesters work from daylight to dusk, and three-fourths of our +wheat crop is gathered in this way. +</p> +<p> +Much golden straw is left, besides that which the "headers" burn as +fuel, and farmers stack this straw for cattle to nibble at. The stock +feed in the stubble fields, too, and strange visitors also come +to these ranches to pick up the scattered grains of wheat. These +strangers are wild white geese, in such large flocks that when feeding +they look like snow patches on the ground. They eat so much that often +they cannot fly and may be knocked over with clubs. In the spring +these geese must be driven away by watchmen with shot-guns to keep +them from pulling up the young grain. +</p> +<p> +The largest single wheat-field in California is on the banks of the +San Joaquin River, in Madera County. This covers twenty-five thousand +acres and is almost as flat as a floor. It is nearly a perfect square +in shape, and each side of the square is a little over six miles long. +There are no roads through this solid stretch of grain. Two hundred +men, a thousand horses, and many big machines are needed to work this +wheat-field. +</p> +<p> +Some of the big harvesters that cut and thresh the wheat are drawn by +a traction-engine instead of horses. In running a fifty-horse-power +engine high-priced coal had to be burnt but now the coal grates are +replaced by petroleum burners, and crude coal-oil is the cheap fuel. +This does not make sparks to set the fields on fire like burning coal +or straw and so is safer to use. +</p> +<p> +On large ranches wheat can be grown for less than a cent a pound, +while it has brought two cents or double the money when sold. But +there are not always good crops, as the grain needs plenty of moisture +in the spring when rains are uncertain. +</p> +<p> +The wheat crop of the state has fallen off of late to less than half +the yield of earlier years, but the deep, rich valley soil still grows +grain enough to feed hungry people in Europe, Asia, and Africa, +as well as in our own Union. Great quantities are taken in large +four-masted ships to Liverpool, England, and there made into American +flour. Our own flour-mills turn out thousands of barrels of flour, +and this travels far, too. The first thing picked up in Manila after +Admiral Dewey's victory was a flour sack with a California mill mark. +</p> +<p> +It would need a long, long story to tell how far from home and into +what strange places the yellow kernels of California wheat sometimes +travel, or to picture the odd people who depend upon us for food. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_12"><!-- RULE4 12 --></a> +<h2> + ORCHARD, FARM, AND VINEYARD +</h2> + +<p> +Long ago the Mission Fathers taught the Indians to plant and to take +care of vines and fruit-trees. They built water-works to bring life to +the thirsty trees in the dry summers, and to grow oranges, limes, +and figs, as well as peaches, apricots, and apples. They trained +grape-vines over arbors and trellises round the Mission buildings, and +from the small, black grapes made wine. Olive trees and date-palms did +well at the southern settlements. But most of these orchards died when +the Mission Fathers were no longer allowed to make the Indians work +for the church property, though a few old palms and olive trees are +still standing. +</p> +<p> +During Mexican days each ranch owner raised enough grain or corn and +beans for his own family but planted no fruit, or but little, while +the Americans who came to seek gold thought farming a slow way of +making a living. People soon found out, however, that our fine climate +and rich soil made good crops almost certain, and there was such +demand for fruit and farm products that more and more acres were +cultivated each year. +</p> +<p> +Our leading industry now is farming and fruit-growing, and +California's delicious fresh or cured fruit is sent all over the +world. Large amounts of barley and hops are shipped from here to +Europe, and our state produces almost all the Lima beans used in the +country. +</p> +<p> +The citrus fruits, as oranges, lemons, and pomelos, or "grape-fruit," +are called, grow in the seven southern counties, or in the foothills +on the western slope of the Sierras. The trees cannot endure frost and +must be irrigated in the summer. Orange trees are a pretty sight, with +their shining green leaves, white, sweet-smelling flowers, and the +green or golden fruit. About Christmas-time, when oranges ripen, both +blossoms and fruit may be picked from the same tree. Los Angeles and +Orange County grow most oranges, but San Diego is first in lemon +culture. Half a million trees in that county show the bright yellow +fruit and fragrant blossoms every month in the year. The other +southern counties also raise lemons by the car-load to send east, or +for your lemonade and lemon pies at home. +</p> +<p> +There, too, the olive grows well, that little plum-shaped fruit you +usually see as a green, salt pickle on the table. The Mission Fathers +brought this tree first from Spain, where the poor people live upon +black bread and olives. Olives are picked while green and put in +a strong brine of salt and water to preserve them for eating. Dark +purple ripe olives are also very good prepared the same way. Did you +know that olive-oil is pressed out of ripe olives? The best oil comes +from the first crushing, and the pulp is afterwards heated, when a +second quality of oil is obtained. Olive trees grow very slowly, and +do not fruit for seven years after they are planted. But they live a +hundred years, and bear more olives every season. +</p> +<p> +The black or purple fig which grew in the old Mission gardens bears +fruit everywhere in the state. Either fresh and ripe, or pressed flat +and dried, it is delicious and healthful. White figs like those from +abroad have been raised the last few years, and it is hoped in time to +produce Smyrna figs equal to the imported. +</p> +<p> +While peach orchards blossom and bear fruit six months of the year in +the south, most of this pretty pink-cheeked fruit grows in the great +valleys, or along the Sacramento River. Pears also show their snowy +blossoms and yellow fruit in the valleys and farther north. The +Bartlett pear is sent to all the Eastern states in cold storage cars +kept cool by ice, and also to Europe. +</p> +<p> +The finest apricots are those of that wonderful southern country, +miles and miles of orchards lying round Fresno especially. Yet the +valleys and foot-hills produce plenty, and in the old mining counties +very choice fruit ripens. Apples like the high mountain valleys, where +they get a touch of frost in winter, though there is a cool section of +San Diego County where fine ones are raised. Cherries do well in the +middle and valley regions, the earliest coming from Vacaville, in +Solano County. +</p> +<p> +Grapes grow throughout the state, though the famous raisin vineyards, +where thousands of tons are dried every year, are around Fresno. Most +of the raisins are dried in the sun, but in one factory a hundred tons +of grapes may be dried at one time by steam. The raisins are seeded by +machinery, and packed in pretty boxes to send all over the coast, and +through the states, where once only foreign raisins were used. Many +vineyards in the southern part and middle of the state grow only wine +grapes, California wines, champagne, and brandy having a wide use. +</p> +<p> +Great quantities of fresh fruits are used in the state or sent away, +while the canneries put up immense amounts, also. Canned fruit reaches +many consumers, but it is expensive. Our cured or dried fruit, however +is so cheap and so good that millions of pounds are prepared every +year. Such fruit ripens on the tree and so keeps all its fine flavor. +It is then dried in the sunshine, which not only fits it for long +keeping but turns part of it to sugar. Apricots, peaches, pears, and +cherries are usually cut in halves or stoned before drying. Prunes are +first on the list of cured fruits, and they seem the best to use as +food. The ripe prunes are dipped into a boiling lye to make the skin +tender, then rinsed and spread in the sun a day or two. They are then +allowed to "sweat" to get a good color, are next dipped in boiling +water a minute or two, dried, and finally graded, a certain number to +the pound, and packed in boxes or sacks. +</p> +<p> +Several kinds of nuts grow well in the state. All the so-called +"English" walnuts, with their thin shells, are raised in the south, +Orange County furnishing half the amount we market. Peanuts and +almonds are a good crop there, also, though almond groves are in all +parts of the state. Both paper and thick-shelled almonds are usually +bleached, or whitened, with sulphur smoke to improve their color. +</p> +<p> +Santa Barbara and Ventura are the bean counties of the state, and send +Lima beans away by train-loads, while Orange County grows celery for +the Eastern market. Very high prices are received for this celery and +other vegetables sent from California during the winter season when +fields are covered with snow in the East. +</p> +<p> +And did you know that the state produces a great deal of sugar? Tons +and tons of sugar-beets are grown throughout the farming lands, and +harvested in September. When the juice of these crushed beets is +boiled and refined, it makes a sugar exactly like cane sugar and much +cheaper. One-fifth of the beet is sugar, it is said. +</p> +<p> +Even the dry, worthless mountain sides are valuable to the bee-keeper. +The bees make a delicious honey from the wild, white sage, which grows +where nothing else will live. This sage honey brings the very highest +price. +</p> +<p> +Oats are raised in the coast counties, and corn in the valleys, but +owing to cool nights and dry air the corn seldom makes a good crop. +Orange County, however, claims corn with stalks twenty feet high and +a hundred bushels to the acre. In the south, also, that wonderful +forage-plant, alfalfa, will produce six crops a year by irrigation and +give a ton or more to the acre at each cutting. +</p> +<p> +Along the upper Sacramento River stretch the great hop-fields full +of tall vines covered with light-green tassels. At hop-picking season +many families have a month's picnic, children and all working day +after day in the fields and pulling off the fragrant hops. Indians, +too, are among the best hop-pickers. The dried hops are bleached with +sulphur, baled, and in great quantities sent to Liverpool, where with +California barley they are used in brewing malt liquors. +</p> +<p> +An odd crop is mustard, and at Lompoc, in Santa Barbara County, enough +for the whole country is grown. Both brown and yellow mustard is +cultivated, and the little seeds, almost as fine as gunpowder, are +sold to spice-mills and pickle-factories. +</p> +<p> +Whole farms are taken up with the production of flower-seeds or bulbs, +with acres and acres of calla-lilies, roses, carnations, and violets. +The tall pampas-grass, with its long feathery plumes, gives a +profitable crop. Indeed, one can scarcely name a fruit, flower, or +tree that will not thrive and grow to perfection in our mild climate +and rich soil. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_13"><!-- RULE4 13 --></a> +<h2> + THE STORY OF THE NAVEL ORANGE +</h2> + +<p> +Who has not enjoyed a juicy navel orange, while wondering at its +peculiar shape and lack of troublesome seeds? Yet few people know that +this particular variety has brought millions of dollars into our state +and made orange growing our third greatest industry. +</p> +<p> +Read this story of the seedless orange, this "golden apple of +California," which was first cultivated by Luther Tibbets, of +Riverside, and learn how Southern California has profited by its navel +orange crops. +</p> +<p> +Nearly thirty years ago Mr. Tibbets came from New York to this state +and took up free government land near what is now the beautiful city +of Riverside. He was one of the half-dozen pioneer fruit-growers +of that region, and had noticed at the San Gabriel Mission how well +orange trees grew there. His wife and daughter waited in Washington, +D.C., until a home should be ready here for them, and they often sent +Mr. Tibbets plants and seeds from the Department of Agriculture. To +this Department and its gardens in Washington, many curious plants +are forwarded from other countries for growing and experiment in the +United States. New kinds of grain or fruits are carefully cultivated +and watched by the Department, and from it farmers can always get +seeds or cuttings to try on their own farms. +</p> +<p> +Mrs. Tibbets often visited the Department gardens, and in 1873 she +wrote to her husband that she could get him some fine orange trees if +he would promise the government to take great care of them and to keep +them apart from other trees till they fruited. Of course he agreed to +give them special attention, and therefore that December he received +three small, rooted orange trees. A cow chewed up one of these, but +for five years the others were watched and tended. Then sweet white +blossoms appeared on each little tree, and afterwards two oranges, +like hard green bullets at first. Finally, in January, 1879, Mr. +Tibbets picked four large, well-flavored, golden oranges, the first +seedless ones ever grown outside of Brazil. +</p> +<p> +From the hot swamps of the tropical country at Bahia the United States +Consul had sent six cuttings of this peculiar orange to be planted +in the Washington gardens. All died but the two at Riverside. In 1880 +they bore half a bushel of fruit, and the new seedless oranges were +talked of throughout Southern California. The other orange growers +had been cultivating "seedlings," trees which bore smaller fruit, with +many bitter seeds and a thick skin. Many of these growers now cut back +their seedlings to bare limbs, and grafted the new orange on these +branches. This is called "budding," and is done by cutting off a thin +slip of bark with a tiny folded-up leaf-bud on it, inserting the graft +in the branch to be budded and securing it there with wax to keep the +air out. The little bud drinks in sap from the tree stem, and grows +and blossoms true to its own mother tree. +</p> +<p> +There were few orange groves then, but soon nearly all were budded +to the new kind, seventy-five acres being so changed on the Baldwin +Ranch; and when these trees began to bear, some five years afterwards, +people were much excited over the seedless fruit. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Orange Tree with fruit and blossoms." +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1085a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1085a.jpg" width="150" height="143" border="0" + alt="AN ORANGE TREE WITH FRUIT AND BLOSSOMS."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">AN ORANGE TREE WITH <br>FRUIT AND BLOSSOMS. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Such high prices were paid for these oranges at first, that orange +growing boomed all over Southern California. People thought their +fortunes were made when they set out a few acres of small budded trees +they had paid a dollar or more apiece for. Whole towns sprang up in +dry treeless valleys where only cattle and sheep had pastured, +and land worth only twenty-five dollars an acre before the orange +excitement, sold quickly for eight hundred and a thousand when planted +with trees. The towns of Pomona, Redlands, Monrovia, and others in +the orange localities were unknown before 1885, and grew to several +thousand population in a few years. Everybody talked of the great +profit in orange growing, and people who had nurseries of young trees +grown from navel buds made fortunes. +</p> +<p> +At this day thousands of acres of seedless oranges are in full bearing +and no one buys the old kinds. Hundreds of car-loads of the seedlings +are not even picked, and ninety per cent of the eighteen thousand +car-loads which make the season's orange crop are navel oranges. Over +forty-five millions of dollars are now invested in the growing and +marketing of this remarkable fruit. +</p> +<p> +At Riverside, the home of the orange, the two original Washington +navel trees still stand. Mr. Tibbets guarded them for years, had them +fenced with high latticework, and seldom allowed any one to touch +them. He refused ten thousand dollars for them, since for months he +sold hundreds of dollars' worth of buds from these parent trees. These +two trees and their large family have caused thousands of people to +come to the state, and have built up Southern California wonderfully. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_14"><!-- RULE4 14 --></a> +<h2> + THE LEMON +</h2> + +<p> +For many years people who use that sour but necessary fruit, the +lemon, thought that only the little yellow ones which came from the +far-away island of Sicily were good. The men who import foreign fruits +always said so; and in spite of the fact that the larger California +lemon was more acid, of as good flavor, smooth skinned, and golden, +people believed the Mediterranean groves produced the best. But, at +last, our warm, dry air, good soil, and plenty of water, together with +care and skill while growing and packing, have made California lemons +the most in demand. These lemons keep well, and bear shipping and long +journeys better than the imported fruit. +</p> +<p> +Citrus fruits, as the orange and lemon are called, do well in all the +southern counties, and San Diego County boasts of not only the largest +lemon grove in California, but in the world. This is a thousand-acre +tract overlooking San Diego Bay and cultivated by the Chula Vista +colony. It was once a pasture given up to wandering bands of cattle +and sheep. There was little water, and no one ever thought these dry +mesa lands would one day be a beautiful garden spot, green with the +shining lemon leaves, and golden with fruit. +</p> +<p> +A company was formed to develop this forty-two square miles of land, +and to get water for irrigation, since all the trees must have little +streams of water round their thirsty roots three or four times during +the dry summer. A great dam was constructed on the Sweetwater River, +near Chula Vista, and a reservoir built. Water was piped from this to +the lemon groves, which are about a hundred feet below the reservoir, +and from May to September the trees are irrigated. This is done by +ploughing furrows on each side of a row of trees and turning small +rills of water slowly down them till the ground is soaked around the +tree roots. No one thought the great reservoir would ever be empty, +but two winters with but little rain made it necessary to put down +many wells in the dry bed of the Sweetwater River, and from these a +strong steady flow of millions of gallons is pumped into the water +pipes. So this great lemon orchard is always sure of water enough, +returning the gift later in generous golden measure. +</p> +<p> +One may pick lemon blossoms, ripe and green fruit every month in the +year from the same tree, but most of the crop ripens from November to +June. +</p> +<p> +Lemons are carefully cut from the tree, and usually picked by size, a +ring being slipped over them, without regard to their ripeness. They +grow so thick on the tree that a man can pick more than twenty boxes +a day. In preparing it for market the fruit "sweats," as it is called, +in airy boxes, for a month in winter and ten days in summer, and +ripens and colors during this process. Then each lemon is wiped +dry and clean, wrapped separately in tissue-paper, and packed for +shipment. The cost of a box of lemons from the tree to the railroad is +about thirty-five cents. +</p> +<p> +Thousands of car-loads are shipped to the Eastern and Middle states, +while the Pacific Coast is a never-failing market. +</p> +<p> +Small, imperfect, and bruised fruit goes to the citric acid factory +near the packing-houses. From these oil of lemon, lemon sugar, and +clear green citric-acid crystals are made, and the crushed waste is +returned to the grove and ploughed in about the trees as a fertilizer. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_15"><!-- RULE4 15 --></a> +<h2> + FLOWERS AND PLANTS +</h2> + +<p> +"When California was wild," says John Muir, "it was one sweet +bee-garden throughout its entire length, and from the snowy Sierra to +the ocean." +</p> +<p> +There were so many yellow poppies in this great unfenced garden, that +the Spanish sailing along the coast called it the "Land of Fire" from +the golden flowers covering the hills. Near Pasadena, in Southern +California, these poppy fields may still be seen glowing so brightly +in the sun that you do not wonder at the name "Cape Las Flores," or +Flower Cape, which the sailors also gave to this part of the country. +</p> +<p> +The poppy is our best-known wild flower, planted by Mother Nature +before white men ever visited these shores. When the Spanish +settled here they called the poppy <i>copa de oro</i>, or cup of gold. +The gold hunters spoke of it as the California gold flower, and sent +the pressed poppies home in their letters. But its correct name is +the Eschscholtzia (esh-sholt'si-a), from the name of a German +botanist and naturalist, who studied the plant and wrote about it +almost a hundred years ago. +</p> +<p> +From February to May the poppies are most plentiful, but a few may be +found almost every month in the year. Have you noticed the finely cut +green leaves, and the pointed green nightcap that covers each bud till +the morning sunshine coaxes off the cap and unfolds the four satiny +golden petals? The flowers love the sun and close up on dark, cloudy +days, or if brought into the house. But put them in a sunny window the +next morning, and you may watch the cups of gold open to the light. +</p> +<p> +Some of the poppies are a deep orange-color, while others are a pale +yellow. And as you walk through the fields you may pick a hundred at +each step, so thick do the plants grow. The wild bees find a yellow +dust called pollen or "bee-bread" in the poppy, the same golden powder +that rubs off on your nose, when you put it too close to this cup of +gold or to lilies. +</p> +<p> +Then in this "unfenced garden" were also the baby blue-eyes, whose +pretty pale-blue blossoms come early in the spring, each one with a +drop of honey at the foot of its honey path, as the black lines on its +petals are called. +</p> +<p> +Can you name twenty kinds of wild flowers? Around San Francisco and +the bay counties you will count, after the poppy and baby blue-eyes, +the shining yellow buttercup, the blue and yellow lupines that grow in +the sand, the tall thistle whose sharp, prickly leaves and thorny +red blossoms spell "Let-me-alone," the blue flag-lilies and red +paint-brush, yellow cream-cups, and wild mustard, and an orange +pentstemon. These with many yellow compositæ or flowers like the +dandelion, you will find growing on the windy hills and dry, sunny +places. Hiding away in quiet corners are the blue-eyed grass, and +a wild purple hyacinth, the scarlet columbine swinging its golden +tassels, shy blue larkspur, a small yellow sunflower, and wild pink +roses. Among the ferns in shady, wet nooks are white trilliums and a +delicate pink bleeding-heart, while the wild blue violets and yellow +pansies love the warm, rocky hillside. +</p> +<p> +Mariposas, or butterfly tulips of many colors, grow in the foot-hills +and mountains. Perhaps our most beautiful wild flowers are the lilies, +of which we have over a dozen kinds. In the redwood forests there is a +tall, lovely pink lily, and many brown-spotted yellow tiger-lilies. Up +in the mountain pines a snowy white Washington lily sometimes covers +a mountain side with its tall stems bearing dozens of sweet waxen +blossoms. In the wet, swampy places bright red, and many small orange +lilies bloom in late summer. +</p> +<p> +In the high Sierras are found strange and pretty blossoms unlike +the flowers of valleys and sea-coast. There you will see the +mountain-heather with pink, purple, or dainty white bells, the +goldenrod, and gentians blue as the sky. Strangest of all is the +snow-plant. This curious thing sends up a thick, fleshy spike a foot +or so in height and set closely with bright scarlet flowers. It grows +where the snow has just melted round the fir trees, and leaf, stem, +and blossom are all the same glowing red. +</p> +<p> +Most of the valley and coast wild-flowers bloom and ripen their seeds +before the dry summer begins. Such plants die and wither away in the +heat, but their seeds are safe on the warm ground till fall rains soak +the earth and set them growing again. In the high mountains a thick +blanket of snow covers the sleeping seeds till May or June, and then +sunshine wakes them once more. +</p> +<p> +No doubt you have seen many of our shrubs or tall bush-plants in your +vacations. Do you remember the sweet creamy white azaleas and the +buckeyes that grow along the creeks in the redwoods? And the feathery +blue blossoms of the wild lilac crowding in close thickets up +the hillsides? One of our shrubs is a holiday visitor, the +Christmas-berry, whose bright-red clusters trim your house at that +gay, happy season. The manzanita is another pretty bush, with pink +bells that ripen to small scarlet apples in the fall. +</p> +<p> +Usually, these and other shrubs cover the hillsides with a thick, +matted tangle of stems and branches almost impossible to get through. +This chaparral, as the Spanish called it, clothes the foot-hills and +mountain sides with a close growth through which deer and bears alone +can travel and make trails or runways. Great stretches of buckthorn in +the north, and of sage-brush in the south, cover the wild lands, while +in the sandy desert tall, prickly cactus, yucca, and mesquite grow +with the sage-brush in the blazing sun. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: In A Mission Garden" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1103a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1103a.jpg" width="146" height="150" border="0" + alt="IN A MISSION GARDEN."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">IN A MISSION GARDEN. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Only a few of California's wild plants and flowers have been now +called to your notice. But children have sharp eyes, and you will +find many more to inquire about in your vacation days. Then +the blackberries and thimble-berries will be ripe, and the pink +salmon-berry in the redwoods. Perhaps you will look for and dig up the +soaproot, that onion-like bulb of one of the lily family with which +the Indians make a soapy lather to wash their clothes. Let us hope +you will know and keep away from the "poison-oak," the low bush with +pretty red leaves, for its leaves are apt to make your skin swell up +and blister wherever they touch you. +</p> +<p> +What a long and pleasant story might be told you of our state's real +gardens! Perhaps your teacher will give you an hour to talk about your +home gardens, and to see how much you can tell about them. You may +have flowers the year round, if you live on the coast, or in the warm +valleys where no Jack Frost comes with his icy breath to kill the +tender plants. In such genial climates roses and geraniums bloom all +year, and only rest when the gardener cuts them back; and most of the +shrubs and trees in parks and gardens are always fresh and green. +</p> +<p> +Florists who raise flowers to sell find that here they can grow the +choicest and finest carnations, roses, and all the garden blossoms you +know so well. Many of these florists deal only in flower-seeds, and +bulbs or roots of the lilies to send to the Eastern states or abroad, +where people greatly prize California flowers. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Palms over 100 years old at Los Angeles" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1085b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1085b.jpg" width="142" height="150" border="0" + alt="PALMS OVER 100 YEARS OLD AT LOS ANGELES."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">PALMS OVER 100 YEARS OLD <br>AT LOS ANGELES. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p> +Plants and trees from all parts of the world thrive here, also. You +have seen the palms, the tall sword-palm with its great spike of snowy +bloom in the spring, the fan-palm whose dried and trimmed leaves +are really used for fans, and, perhaps, the date-palm. This tree +was planted round the Missions by the Padres, and some, more than +a hundred years old, are still standing at the San Gabriel Mission. +These, and the magnolia with its large creamy blossoms, as well as the +graceful pepper-tree, are natives of warm, southern lands, while the +eucalyptus, or gum-tree, was brought here from Australia. +</p> +<p> +Look round, children, as you walk to and from school, or in the park, +and try to know and name the green things growing there, the flowers +and plants sent to make our world a pleasant place to live in. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_16"><!-- RULE4 16 --></a> +<h2> + THE BIG TREES AND LUMBERING +</h2> + +<p> +The largest trees in the world are those forest giants of California +which grow on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevadas, and nowhere +else on the globe. People carelessly call these grand trees "redwoods" +or "big trees," but their family name is Sequoia, an Indian chief's +name. When the trees were first discovered, in 1853, accounts of their +height and size were sent to England. Supposing this giant to be a +new tree, it was there christened <i>Wellingtonia</i>, and also +<i>gigantea</i> for its immense measurements. While Americans were +trying to have it called <i>Washingtonia</i>, a famous Frenchman who +knew all about trees decided that the specimen sent him was certainly +a sequoia, as named by a German professor some six years before this +time. So the tree was called <i>sequoia gigantea</i> and quietly went +on growing, unmindful of the four nations who had quarrelled over its +christening. Why, indeed, should it bother its lofty head with the +chatter of people whose countries were unknown when this mighty tree +was full grown? For these sequoias are the oldest of living objects +and have probably been growing for four thousand years. How do we know +this? Well, when a fallen trunk is sawed across, one can see rings in +the wood, and it is thought that each ring is a year's growth. John +Muir counted over four thousand of these annual rings on the stump of +one of the Kings River trees. +</p> +<p> +These fine old trees grow in groves, and of the nine or ten groves +the Calaveras and Mariposa are the best known. The Calaveras group of +nearly a hundred mighty trees was the first one discovered, and four +trees here are over three hundred feet high. The fallen "Father of +the Forest" must have been much higher, for it measures a hundred feet +round its trunk at the root end. A man can ride on horseback for two +hundred feet through its hollow trunk as it lies on the ground. Many +of the standing trees hollowed out by fires are large enough, used as +cabins, to live in. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustrations: 'Wawona' and 'The Grizzly Giant' trees" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1106a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1106a.jpg" width="150" height="130" border="0" + alt="'WAWONA' (28 feet in diameter)."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">"WAWONA"<br>(28 feet in diameter). + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><br> <a href="images/lg1106b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1106b.jpg" width="150" height="130" border="0" + alt="THE GRIZZLY GIANT (33 feet in diameter)."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">THE GRIZZLY GIANT<br>(33 feet in diameter). + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +The Mariposa grove of Big Trees, being not far from Yosemite Valley, +is the best known, as thousands of tourists visit both places. There +is a big tree at Mariposa for every day in the year, and two very +wonderful ones, the Grizzly Giant and Wawona. Stage-coaches drive into +the grove through the tree Wawona, which was bored and burned out +so as to make an opening ten by twelve feet. A wall of wood ten feet +thick on each side of this opening supports the living tree. The great +Grizzly Giant towers a hundred feet without a branch, and twice that +height above the first immense branches that are six feet through. +This was, no doubt, an old tree when Columbus discovered America, yet +it is alive and green and still growing. +</p> +<p> +The largest tree in the world is the General Sherman, in Sequoia +National Park, and it is thirty-five feet in diameter. This means that +the stump of the tree, if smoothed off, would make a floor on which +thirty people might dance, or your whole class be seated. You can +scarcely imagine what a mighty column such a tree is, with its rich +red-brown bark, fluted like a column, too, and with its crown of +feathery green branches and foliage. The bark is a foot or two thick. +The trees are evergreens, and conifers, or cone-bearers. Sequoia cones +are two or three inches long and full of small seeds. The Douglas +squirrel gets most of these seeds, but there are still seedlings and +saplings or young trees enough to keep the race alive in most of the +groves. +</p> +<p> +These groves of wonderful and rare trees are protected as National +Parks in the Sequoia and Grant groves, and Mariposa belongs to the +state. It is against the law to cut the trees in those groves. Their +worst enemy is fire, and a troop of cavalry is sent every year to +guard them, and to keep out the sheep-herders, whose flocks would +destroy the underbrush and young trees. But, unfortunately, lumbermen +have put up mills near the Fresno and Kings River groups, and, wasting +more than they use, are destroying magnificent trees thousands of +years old in order to make shingles. When nature has taken such good +care of this rare and wonderful tree, the Sierra Giant, men should try +to preserve the groves unharmed in all their beauty. +</p> +<p> +Another <i>sequoia</i> grows in great forests along the Coast Range +from Santa Cruz to the northern state-line, and beyond into Oregon. +This is the <i>sequoia sempervirens</i>, the Latin name meaning always +green. Redwood is its common name, and the lumber for our frame or +wooden houses is cut from this tree. Millions of feet of this redwood +lumber are shipped from the northern counties of the state every year, +up to Alaska or down to Central and South America. It is also sent far +across the Pacific to the Hawaiian and Philippine islands and to China +and Australia. +</p> +<p> +While the <i>sequoia gigantea</i> delights in a clear sky and hot +sunshine, its brother, the <i>sempervirens</i>, prefers a cool +sea-coast climate, offering frequent baths of fog. There is also a +difference in the size of these trees; the redwood is often three +hundred feet high, but is less in girth than its relative in the +Sierras. There is not much underbrush and little sunshine in the cool, +green redwood forests, each tree rising tall and stately for a hundred +feet without branches, while the green tops seem almost to touch the +sky as one looks up. Through the woods one hears the blue jay scream +and chatter, and the tap, tap of the woodpecker as he drills holes in +the bark to fill with acorns for his winter store. +</p> +<p> +When the lumberman looks at these beautiful forests, he sees only many +logs containing many thousand feet of lumber, which he must get out +the easiest and cheapest way. He only chooses the finest and largest +trunks, and there is great waste in cutting these. The men begin +to saw the tree some eight or ten feet from the ground, and soon it +trembles and falls with a mighty crash, often snapping off other trees +in its way to the ground. After all the selected trees have fallen, +fires are started to burn off the branches and underbrush so that the +men can work easier. This fire only chars the outside bark of the big, +green logs, but it kills all the young saplings, and leaves the once +beautiful forest a waste of blackened logs and gray ashes. When the +fire burns itself out, the logs are usually sawed with a cross-cut saw +into sixteen-foot lengths, since in that form they are easy to handle. +Then oxen or horses haul them out; or sometimes a wire cable is +fastened to them by iron "dogs," or stakes, and a little stationary +engine pulls them away to the siding at the railroad track. Here they +are rolled on flat-cars, fastened with a big iron chain around the +four or six logs on the car, and taken on the logging train to the +mill-pond. They lie soaking in the water until drawn up to the keen +saws of the sawmill that cut and slice the wood like cheese. The bark +and outside is carved off as you would cut the crust off bread, and +then sharp, circular saws cut boards and planks till the log is used +up, and the log-carriage lifts another to its place. As the shining +steel bites into the wood the noise almost deafens you and the mill +shakes with the thunder of log-carriage and feeders. Useless ends, +slabs, and refuse are burnt in the sawdust pit, where the fires never +go out. Very much of the tree is wasted and all the limbs. The redwood +tree has so much life and strength, however, that it sends up bright +green sprouts around the burnt stump, and standing trees charred outside +to the tops will have new branches the next season. In the older forests tall +young trees are often seen growing in a ring round an empty spot, the +long-dead stump having rotted away. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Big trees at Felton, Santa Cruz Co." +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1118.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1118.jpg" width="150" height="130" border="0" + alt="BIG TREES AT FELTON, SANTA CRUZ CO."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">BIG TREES AT FELTON, <br>SANTA CRUZ CO. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Near Santa Cruz is a grove of large and beautiful redwoods, many +of the trees being over three hundred feet high and from forty +to sixty-five feet around the base of the trunk. The Giant is the +largest, and three other immense ones are named for Generals Grant, +Sherman, and Fremont. In 1846 General Fremont found this grove, and +camped, on a rainy winter night, in the hollow trunk of the tree +bearing his name. Here is also seen a group of eleven very tall trees +growing in a circle around an old stump. +</p> +<p> +In the Sierras, both in the <i>sequoia</i> groves and forests above +the Big-Tree region, are very large sugar-pines, red firs, and +yellow-pine trees, all of which make excellent lumber. Great forests +of these trees, with cedars almost as large as the redwoods, are in +the northern counties also. You may have seen sugar-pine cones which +are over a foot long, the largest of all found, while redwood cones +are the smallest. Another great tree is the Douglas spruce, the king +of spruce trees, growing in both Sierra Nevada and Coast ranges. +</p> +<p> +The California laurel, or bay tree, with its beautiful, shining green +leaves, and the madroño, the slender, red-barked tree on the hillsides +you must have noticed in your trips to the country, as well as our +fine valley and mountain oaks. Try to learn the kinds of trees and +study their leaves, blossoms, and fruit, and you will find every one +a friend well worth knowing. Then you will wish to save them from fire +and the lumberman's axe, especially the rare and old <i>sequoias</i>. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_17"><!-- RULE4 17 --></a> +<h2> + OUR BIRDS +</h2> + +<p> +More than three hundred kinds of these dear feathered friends and +visitors live in California. Along the sea-shore, in the great valleys +and the mountain-forests and meadows, even in the dry, hot desert, the +birds, our shy and merry neighbors, are at home. In many parts of +the state they find sunshine and green trees the year round, and food +always at hand. Yet sparrows, robins, and woodpeckers will stay in the +snowed-in groves of the Sierras all winter, contentedly chirping or +singing in spite of the bitter cold. +</p> +<p> +If you know these wanderers of wood and field, these birds of sea and +shore, and their interesting habits, you will wish to protect them +from stone or gun, and their nests from the egg collector. You will +listen to the lark and linnet, and be glad that the happy songster +trilling such sweet notes is free to fly where he wishes, and is +not pining in a cage. And you, little girl, will not encourage the +destruction of these pretty creatures by wearing a sea-gull or part of +some dead bird on your hat. +</p> +<p> +To become better acquainted with birds, let us call them before us by +classes, beginning with our sea-birds and those round the bays and on +the coast. Some of these not only swim but dive in the salt waters, +and to this class of divers belong the grebe, loon, murre, and puffin. +They dive at the flash of a gun, and after what seems a long time, +come up far away from the spot the hunter aimed at. These birds +usually nest on bare, rocky cliffs near the ocean, or on islands like +the Farallones, and their large green eggs hatch out nestlings that +are ugly and awkward and helpless on land. But they ride the great +ocean-breakers, or dive into their clear depths easily and gracefully; +and as they live upon fish or small sea-creatures, the divers only +seek land to roost at night and to raise their young. +</p> +<p> +Next come the gulls, who belong to a class known as "long-winged +swimmers." They have strong wings and fly great distances, and with +their webbed feet swim well, too. Most of the sea-gulls are white with +a gray coat on their backs, but they look snowy-white as they fly. You +may see them walking about the wharves, or perching on roofs and piles +watching for food, and seeming very tame as they pick up bits of bread +or the refuse floating in the water. They follow steamers for miles, +scarcely moving their wings as they float in the air; and if you throw +a cracker from the deck, some gull will make a swift swoop and snatch +it before the cracker reaches the water. +</p> +<p> +Far out on the Pacific the albatross sails proudly on his broad wings, +and cares nothing for high winds or storms. He rests and sleeps on the +billows at night with his little companions, the stormy petrels. He is +the largest and strongest of our birds of flight, the very king of the +sea. The stormy petrels are not much larger than a swallow. Sailors +call them. "Mother Carey's chickens," and are sure a storm is +coming up when petrels follow the ship. The albatross, petrel, and +a gull-like bird called a shearwater belong to the "tube-nosed +swimmers," on account of their curious long beaks. +</p> +<p> +Along the coast, and wading in the shallow waters around the bays, are +some strange birds known as pelicans and shags. They are good fishers, +and drive the darting, finny fellows before them as they wade in the +water till they can see and gobble them up. Most waders have under +their beaks a skin-pocket deep enough to hold a fish while carrying +it to their nestlings, or making ready to swallow it. All of these +sea-birds raise their young as far from the shore and from hunters +as possible. Great flocks of them roost on islands fifteen or twenty +miles out in the ocean, and fly into the bays every morning. +</p> +<p> +Wild ducks, geese, the herons, mud-hens, sandpipers, and curlews are +marsh and shore birds that feed and wade in the shallow salt water, +and nest on the banks or, like the heron, in trees near the bay. The +heron is a frog-catcher, and he will stand very still on his long legs +and patiently wait till the frog, thinking him gone, swims near. Then +one dart of the long bill captures froggy, and the heron waits for +another. You know the red-head, green mallard, canvas-back, and small +teal ducks, no doubt, and have seen the flocks of wild geese flying +and calling in the sky, or standing like patches of snow as they feed +in the marshes or grain-fields. +</p> +<p> +Down on the mud-flats at low tide you see birds called rails, and also +"kill-dee" plovers. The shoveller ducks are there, too fishing up with +broad, flat beaks little crabs and such creatures as are in the mud, +straining out mud and water, but swallowing the rest. All these birds +are "waders" and delight in mud and cold salt water. They are usually +quiet, or make only strange, shrill cries. +</p> +<p> +In the sunny fields and woods we shall find many of the land-birds, +and first comes a family whose habits are so like those of chickens +that they are called "scratchers." These birds depend for food upon +seeds and bugs or worms they scratch out of the ground. Up in +the Sierra sugar-pines and fir-woods lives the largest of these +"scratchers," the brown grouse. He is a shy creature, rising out of +his feeding-ground with a great whirring of wings and out of sight +before the hunter can fire at him. His peculiar cry, or "drumming," as +it is called, sounds through the woods like tapping hard on a hollow +log. His equally shy neighbor is the mountain-quail, while through +the farming lands and all along the hillsides the valley—quail are +plenty. Perhaps you have seen a happy family of these speckled brown +birds. Papa quail has a black crest on his head, and he calls "Look +right here" from the wrong side of the road to fool you, while Mamma +and her little, cunning chicks scatter like flying brown leaves in the +brush. After the danger is past, you hear her low call to bring them +round her again. In the desert and sage-brush part of the state the +sage-hen, another "scratcher," runs swiftly through the thickets, but +many are caught and brought in by the Indians. +</p> +<p> +Our birds of prey are eagles, vultures, hawks, owls, and the +turkey-buzzards, those big black scavengers that hang in the air. In +circles high above woods and fields some of these birds of prey sweep +on broad wings, searching with keen sight for their food in some dead +animal far below. The California condor, a great black vulture-like +bird, is almost extinct, and is only found in the highest mountains. +It is very large of wing, and strong enough, it is said, to carry off +a sheep. Both golden and bald eagles nest in tall trees in the wildest +parts of the state. The chicken-hawk, whose swift sailing over the +poultry-yard calls out loud squawking from the frightened hens, +you have often seen, and the wise-looking brown owls, too. A small +burrowing owl lives in the squirrel holes, and you may catch him +easily in the daytime, when he cannot see. +</p> +<p> +The road-runner is of the cuckoo family of birds. It seldom flies, but +runs swiftly along the roads, or in the desert, and is said to kill +rattlesnakes by placing a ring of thorny cactus leaves around the +snake as it lies asleep. The rattler is then pecked to death, since it +cannot get out of its prickly cage. This fowl is like a slender brown +hen in size. +</p> +<p> +In the redwoods you hear the tap, tap, of the "carpenter" woodpecker, +with his black coat and gay red cap. He drills holes in the bark of a +tree with his strong beak and then fits an acorn neatly into each safe +little storehouse. It is thought that worms and grubs fatten while +living in these acorns, so that the woodpecker always has a meal ready +in the winter when the ground is wet, or the squirrels have carried +off the acorns under the trees. +</p> +<p> +Humming-birds, or "hummers," as the boys call them, are plenty in city +and country and so fearless that they will take a bath in the spray +of the garden-hose, or dart their long bills in the fuchsias almost +within your reach. The bill shields a double tongue, which gets not +only honey, but small insects from the flower or off the leaves. The +humming-bird's tiny nest is a soft, round basket, not much bigger than +half a walnut-shell, and holding two eggs, which are like small-white +beans. Bits of moss and gray cobwebs are woven in this nest till it +looks like the branch itself; and here the little mother in her plain +brown dress hatches out and feeds the baby "hummers." Her husband has +glistening ruby feathers at his throat and green spots on his head and +back that glow in the sun like jewels. +</p> +<p> +The highest class of birds is the "perchers," and many friends of +yours belong to this. There are two families, however, of perchers, +those that call and the song-birds. Calling over and over their +peculiar note, the pewees, flycatchers, and king-birds, fly through +the forests. The crow and blue jay belong to the singers, you will +be surprised to hear. And what a crowd of these song-birds there +are trilling and warbling in the sunshine! Have you ever watched the +meadow-lark singing as he sits on guard on the fence, while the rest +of his brown-coated yellow-vested flock run along the field picking up +seeds and insects? +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Baby Yellow Warblers (birds)" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1133b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1133b.jpg" width="150" height="135" border="0" + alt="BABY YELLOW WARBLERS."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">BABY YELLOW WARBLERS. + <br>From photographs <br>by Elizabeth Grinnell. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Then there are the linnets, or "redheads," who sing their sweet, +merry tunes all summer, and if they do take a cherry or two the farmer +should not grumble. They destroy many bugs and caterpillars and eat +weed-seeds that might trouble the fruit-grower more than the missing +cherries. The yellow warbler, sometimes called the wild canary, flits +through bush and tree and trills its gay notes in town and country. +Song-sparrows, thrushes, and bluebirds warble far and near, while the +red-winged blackbird makes music in wet, swampy places. The robin, +who comes to city gardens in the winter, has a summer home in the +mountains or redwoods. There, too, the saucy jay screams and chatters, +and flashes his blue wings as he flies, scolding all the time. +</p> +<p> +In Southern California, among the orange groves or in gardens, the +mocking-bird trills in sweet, liquid notes his wonderful song. He +mimics, too, many sounds he hears, and sometimes when caged will +whistle tunes or say words. The mocker can crow or cackle like the +chickens, or mew like the cat. Then he will whistle clear and loud +till dogs or boys answer his call. When they find themselves fooled, +it is said, he mimics a laugh. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Young Towhee bird" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1133a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1133a.jpg" width="150" height="140" border="0" + alt="YOUNG TOWHEE."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">YOUNG TOWHEE. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +From April to July the birds are busy, nesting, feeding their +families, or teaching them to fly. Many eggs never hatch, and some +are destroyed by wild animals. Boys often rob a whole nest to have one +little blown egg in their collections. Then again the mother is killed +and her brood starves to death. When the parent birds are teaching the +nestlings to fly, cats also catch the little ones. So you see the poor +feathered things have many enemies. +</p> +<p> +Let us try to protect the birds, and to let them live happy lives +in freedom. Each one will thank you, either with sweet songs or with +being a beautiful thing to see on land or ocean. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_18"><!-- RULE4 18 --></a> +<h2> + OUR WILD ANIMALS +</h2> + +<p> +Once upon a time, when the Spanish owned this state and called it +their province of Alta California, there were great herds of antelope +feeding on the grassy plains, and at every little stream elk and deer +and big grizzly bears came down to drink. No fences had been built, +and the wild animals had never heard a rifle-shot. Free and fearless +they ranged valley and hillside, or made their dens in the thick +brush, or "chaparral," as the Spanish called it. +</p> +<p> +Indian hunters watched the paths over which these wild creatures +travelled to water, and killed deer and antelope with their arrows. +But these hunters were afraid of grizzly bears, for an arrow in Mr. +Bear's thick hide only made him cross, and with one hug, or even a +light blow from his paw, he could cripple the poor Indian. So in those +early days the old bears came year after year, and carried off sheep +and cattle. The simple folks did not even try to kill them. Indeed, +many of the red men believed that very bad Indians were punished by +being turned into grizzly bears when they died, and they would not +hurt their brothers, they said. +</p> +<p> +When Father Serra's Mission people were starving at Monterey, the +Padre learned that at a place called Bear Valley near by, there were +many grizzlies which the Indians would not kill. He sent Spanish +soldiers there, and they shot so many bears that the hungry Mission +family had meat enough to last till a ship came from Mexico with +supplies. +</p> +<p> +Of all flesh-eating animals this grizzly bear is the largest and +strongest. He can knock down a bull with his great paws, or kill and +carry off a horse. He can live on wild berries and acorns with grass +and roots he digs out of the ground, yet fresh meat suits him best, +and he prefers a calf, which he holds as a cat does a mouse. +</p> +<p> +Nothing but stock was raised in California in those days so long +ago, and cattle were counted by the thousands and sheep by tens of +thousands. Then the grizzly and cinnamon, or brown, bear feasted all +the time on stray calves and yearlings. Every spring and fall the +cattle, which had roamed almost wild in the pastures, were "rounded +up" by the cowboys, or vaqueros. After the work of picking out each +ranchero's stock and branding the young cattle was over, the vaqueros +thought it fine fun to lasso a bear,—some old fellow, perhaps, +who had been helping himself to the calves. It is told that one big +cinnamon bear, while quietly feeding on acorns, looked up to find +three or four cow-boys on their ponies in a circle around him. They +spurred the trembling ponies as close to him as they dared, and yelled +at the tops of their voices. The great brute sat up on his haunches +and faced them, growling and snarling. One vaquero sent his rope +flying through the air, and the loop settled over a big, hairy fore +paw. Then the bear dropped on all fours and made a jump at the pony, +which got out of his reach. Another Mexican threw a lasso and caught +the bear's hind foot; and as he sat up again a third noose dropped +over the other fore paw. Then the poor trapped creature, growling, +snarling, and rolling over and over, began a tug of war with the +lariats and the ponies. Once a rope broke, and horse and rider tumbled +in front of the bear. He made a quick, savage jump, but was pulled +back by the other ropes. Then Mr. Bear sat up straight and tugged so +hard that another lariat broke and sent the saddle and rider over the +pony's head. With one sweep of his paw the bear smashed the saddle, +but the cow-boy saved himself by running to an oak tree. At last Mr. +Bear was getting the best of the fight so plainly, and had pulled the +frightened ponies so near him, that the man who was thrown off ended +the poor animal's struggles with a rifle-ball. +</p> +<p> +A Chinese sheep-herder tells this funny story about a bear: "Me lun +out, see what matta; me see sheep all bely much scared, bely much lun, +bely much jump. Big black bear jump over fence, come light for me. Me +so flighten me know nothin', then me scleam e-e-e-e so loud, and lun +at bear till bear get scared too and lun away." +</p> +<p> +A few grizzlies are still found in the Sierras, and black and brown +bears are often seen with their playful little cubs. The small +fellows are easily tamed and may be taught many tricks. They will live +contentedly in a bear-pit, or even if chained up, and as most of you +know, they like peanuts and pop-corn well enough to beg for them. +</p> +<p> +The panther, or mountain-lion, is another large flesh-eating animal +which makes his home in the thick woods conveniently neighboring the +farmers' corrals and pastures. Not long ago a boy in Marin County, +who was sent to look after some ponies, saw a big yellow dog, as he +thought, "worrying" one of the colts. When he came nearer he found +it was a wicked-looking, catlike creature, and knew it must be a +California lion. He had nothing with him but a heavy whip. The panther +left the wounded colt and crouched ready to spring at the boy, but he +was on the alert and struck it a terrible blow across the eyes with +his whip, and then another and another. Half-blinded and whining with +pain, the panther turned tail and ran away, while the boy's pony, +trembling and snorting with fright, galloped home with his brave +rider. +</p> +<p> +In one of the mountain counties a woman, hearing her chickens +squawking one day at noon, ran out to find what seemed a big dog among +them with a hen in his mouth. She rushed straight at him with a broom, +when the animal turned. She found it was a great panther, who snarled +and made ready to spring at her. As she screamed and started to run +away, her foot slipped on a steep and muddy place, and she slid down +the little hill right into the panther's face. He was so frightened +that he jumped the fence and hurried to the woods. +</p> +<p> +This great yellow cat is both savage and cowardly, and he has been +known to follow a man walking through the woods, all day, yet he +sneaked out of sight at every loud call the man gave. He chases deer +and gets many small and helpless fawns, hunters say. +</p> +<p> +Fur-hunting was once a profitable business for the Indians, who were +clothed in bear and panther skins when the first white men came to +California, and had many furs to trade or sell. The Indians trapped +otters, beavers, and minks, and the squaws tanned the deer-hides to +make buckskin shirts or leggings. Hunters and trappers still bring in +these wild animals' furry coats after trips to the high mountains or +untravelled woods, where the shy creatures try to live and be safe +from their enemies. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: California Red Deer" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1140.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1140.jpg" width="149" height="150" border="0" + alt="CALIFORNIA RED DEER."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">CALIFORNIA RED DEER. + <br>From a photograph by <br>George V. Robinson. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +In early days herds of a very large deer, called elk, fed on the wild +oats and grass. These elk had wide, branching horns measuring three +or four feet from tip to tip. Only a few of them now survive in the +redwood forests in the northern counties. There were plenty of them +once where San Francisco now stands. Dana in his book called "Two +Years Before the Mast," tells us that when his ship dropped anchor off +the little village of Yerba Buena about sixty-seven years ago, he saw +hundreds of red deer and elk with their branching antlers. They were +running about on the hills, or standing still to look at the ship +until the noise frightened them off. At that time the whole country +was covered with thick trees and bushes where the wolf and coyote +prowled, and the grizzly bear's track was seen everywhere. +</p> +<p> +There are plenty of deer in the redwoods now, and in the high +Sierras are black-tailed and large mule-deer. In the woods round Mount +Tamalpais timid red deer live, too. In winter, when it is cold and +snowy in the northern counties of our state, these deer often come +into the farmer's barnyard to nibble at the hay. +</p> +<p> +There are still left in the mountains among the pines and snowy cliffs +many mountain-sheep. These curious big-horned animals resemble both +the elk and the sheep, and it is said they can jump from a high rock +and land far below on their feet or heavy, twisted horns without being +hurt in the least. +</p> +<p> +Of all the great herds of graceful, fast-running antelope, once the +most plentiful of our wild animals, only a very few can now be found +on the eastern slopes of the Sierras. +</p> +<p> +But Master Coyote, who might well be spared, so cruel and cowardly is +he, still sneaks up and down the whole state, and his quick sharp bark +gives notice that the rascal is ready to steal a chicken or a lamb if +it is not protected. With his bushy tail and large head he is half fox +and half wolf in appearance, and mean enough in habits to be both. He +can outrun a dog and even a deer, and though he catches jack-rabbits +and the Molly Cottontail usually for food, he would help his brother, +the wolf, to kill a poor harmless sheep. +</p> +<p> +This gray wolf is a savage creature and hides in the thick forests by +day, slinking out at night to the nearest sheep corral or turkey-pen +if he can find one unwatched by some faithful dog. His friend and +neighbor, the fox, likes fat geese and chickens as well as birds, +squirrels, and wood-rats. The queer raccoon lives in the redwoods and +is often caught and kept in a cage or chained for a pet. +</p> +<p> +Wildcats, both gray and yellow, are found in the thickly timbered +parts of California, and the badger makes his home in the mountain +cañons or pine woods. There, too, the curious porcupine dwells. He is +covered with grayish white quills, which bristle out when he is angry +or frightened. No old dog will touch this animal, for he knows better +than to get a mouthful of sharp toothpicks by biting Mr. Porcupine, +who is like a round pincushion with the pins pointing out. A dog who +has never seen this prickly ball will dab at it, and have a sore paw +to nurse for weeks after. +</p> +<p> +Two or three kinds of tree-squirrels live in the pines and redwoods, +the Douglas squirrel being well known in the mountains. The ground +squirrel, or chipmunk, digs holes in the ground, where he hides his +winter's store of grain and nuts. +</p> +<p> +Three of our smaller wild animals are very common and very troublesome +to the farmer. The skunk, which looks like a pretty black and white +kitten with a bushy tail, and also the weasel, destroy all the +chickens and eggs they can reach, and they are so cunning that it is +hard to keep them out of the hen-house. That little pest, the gopher, +we are all well acquainted with, since he gnaws the pinks and roses +off at their roots in your city garden while his large family of +brothers and sisters kill the farmer's fruit-trees and vines. The +gopher digs long tunnels under ground, making storerooms here and +there in these passages, which he fills with grass, roots, and seeds. +In each cheek he has a pouch, or pocket, large enough to hold nearly a +handful of grain, so the little rascal carries his stores very easily. +The traps and poison by which the farmer is always trying to make way +with him, he is sly enough to let alone. His greatest foe is the +cat, which watches patiently at the hole where the destructive little +fellow is digging and usually catches him. A mother cat will sometimes +bring in two or three gophers a day to her kittens. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_19"><!-- RULE4 19 --></a> +<h2> + IN SALT WATER AND FRESH +</h2> + +<p> +Tom and Retta Ransom were two of the happiest children in the state, +I believe, when told that their summer vacation was to be spent at +Catalina Island. To see the wonderful fish that swim in those warm, +Southern waters, to watch them through the glass-bottomed boat, to +dip out funny sea-flowers with a net, or catch the pretty kingfish and +perhaps a "yellowtail,"—why, they could talk of nothing else! +</p> +<p> +How they skipped and danced and chattered about the trip! At +last Mamma said, "Well, everything is packed and ready, and we go +to-morrow." Then what fun it was to stand on the steamer's deck and +sail "right out through the Golden Gate," as Retta said. The big +green billows of the Pacific Ocean caught the boat as she crossed the +outside bar and tossed salt spray almost into their faces. Little the +children cared for the drops of water, for they were so glad to be +off on their trip and to say good-by to San Francisco's summer fog and +cold winds for a time. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Seal Rocks, San Francisco" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1177a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1177a.jpg" width="151" height="150" border="0" + alt="SEAL ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">SEAL ROCKS, <br>SAN FRANCISCO. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +And there on Seal Rocks, near the Cliff House, were the seals, or +rather sea-lions, clumsy creatures like black rubber sacks with +fins, or flippers, and a head. Some were lying in the sun and others +crawling up the steep, wet rocks. Those highest up were asleep and +quiet, but most of them kept barking or growling as they tried to find +a sunny place to bask in. Sometimes when frightened these sea-lions +will pitch headlong from high rocks into the ocean and dive out of +sight at once. Mrs. Ransom said she remembered seeing one that was +kept for years in a salt-water tank, and that, although they seem so +clumsy, this sea-lion jumped so quick that he caught a fish thrown to +him before it touched the water. Once fur-seals were in great numbers +off our coast, and lived on the rocks as these sea-lions now do. But +Indians, or later on white hunters, killed them, or drove them up +north where the crack of the rifle is not heard. +</p> +<p> +On to the south the steamer sailed through the foaming waters, and as +Tom stood watching the white-capped waves go dancing by, he saw, two +or three times, a black fin come up, and then another. At last a man +said, "Look at the porpoises playing." Tom screamed with delight as +they jumped and chased each other till their black, shiny backs were +clear out of water. These fish are sometimes called sea-hogs and are +five or six feet long. Either to get their food of small fish, or in +play, they keep swimming and diving near the tops of the breakers. +Fishermen catch them with a strong hook and use the thick, leathery +skin for straps or strings, while they try oil out of their blubber or +fat. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Humpback Whale (57 feet long)" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1159a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1159a.jpg" width="160" height="110" border="0" + alt="HUMPBACK WHALE (57 feet long)."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">HUMPBACK WHALE<br>(57 feet long). + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +All that day and night the boat kept steadily on her way, and the next +morning they were in Santa Barbara Channel. It was so pleasant sailing +on this summer sea in the soft, warm sunshine that even the sea-sick +ladies felt better and came on deck. Mamma agreed with the children +that the steamer trip was much nicer than the hot, dusty cars. Just +then some one called, "See the whale," and looking quick Tom and Retta +saw what seemed a fountain of water rising high in the air about half +a mile away. Soon another went up, and two or three more, for the +gray hump-backed whales like this stretch of smooth bay. They are +warm-blooded animals and not fish at all, so they must come to the top +of the waves for air to breathe. The air and water spout out through +"blow-holes" on top of the whale's head, and rise like steam in the +colder air. The children's mother told them that the whale is the +largest of all animals, and that it lives on little jellyfish. It swims +with its great mouth wide open and catches all the tiny sea creatures +in its path. A fringe of whalebone hangs down from the roof of the +whale's mouth, and he strains the water out through this and swallows +the fish. As the boat went on, the children said, "There she blows," +as the sailors do when they see whales spouting in the distance. +</p> +<p> +Late that night the steamer got to San Pedro, and you may be sure Tom +and Retta were up early the next morning. As they came off the +boat, there was a crowd of people on the wharf who were pulling in +"yellow-tail" as fast as they dropped their lines. This fine fish is +a little like a big salmon, but with golden-yellow fins and tail. Its +body is greenish gray, with spots of the prettiest rainbow colors, +which grow brighter as the fish dies. These fish bite easily, but as +soon as caught begin to rush back and forth, fighting and trying to +snap the line. +</p> +<p> +The children here took a smaller steamer for the twenty-mile trip +across to Catalina Island, and on the way over they saw a whole +"school" of whales and a flight of flying-fishes. Yes, really and +truly, these little fish fly or sail through the air, for their fins +balance them like a parachute. They skim along ten or twelve feet +above the waves, and then drop in the water to rest, taking another +flight whenever their enemies, the porpoises, chase them. +</p> +<p> +How happy the children were to land at the little town of Avalon, and +to know that they were to have a month at this beautiful place! They +hurried down to the beach and their first choice of amusements was the +glass-bottomed boat. These boats have "water-telescopes," which are +only clear glass set in boxed-in places. The glass seems to make the +ripples still, so that you can look down, down to the bottom of the +ocean, twenty or thirty feet below you. +</p> +<p> +The boatman rowed the children out in the bay, where the water, now +green, now blue, was always clear as crystal. On the rocks and sand +at the bottom starfish and crabs crawled slowly along or clung to some +stone. The purple sea-urchins, queer round-shelled creatures covered +with thorny spines, crowded together, and the ugly toad-fish hid +in the green and brown seaweeds. Blue, purple, and rainbow-colored +jellyfish floated on top of the waters, while gold perch with red +and green sunfish swam through the seaweed "like parrots in some hot +country's woods," Retta thought. In the shallow places on the rocks +those curious sea-flowers, the anemones, looked like pink or green +cactus blossoms. The children never tired of the water-telescope in +all their stay at the island. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustrations: Black Sea Bass, Leaping Tuna" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1149b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1149b.jpg" width="145" height="162" border="0" + alt="BLACK SEA BASS."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">BLACK SEA BASS. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><br> <a href="images/lg1149a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1149a.jpg" width="150" height="155" border="0" + alt="LEAPING TUNA."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">LEAPING TUNA. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +At night the warm ocean waters seemed on fire, since they are full +of very tiny, soft-bodied creatures, each of which gives out a faint, +glowing light. Every day the fishermen brought in new and strange +fishes. The black sea-bass, heavier than the fisherman himself and +longer than he was tall, were wonderful, and they could hardly believe +that such big fish were caught with a rod and line. +</p> +<p> +But the leaping tuna pleased Tom the most, since he thought it such +fun to watch them jump into the air like silver arrows after the +flying-fish. Not so large as the black bass, the tunas are strong +enough to tow a boat along when running with a hook. One will drag a +heavy launch through the water as if a tug had hold of it, and +will fight for hours, rushing and plunging till tired out. Then the +fisherman pulls him up to the boat and ends his struggles. +</p> +<p> +Tom and Retta were fond of watching the curious fish and sea-plants +in the glass aquarium tanks on shore also, but their happiest time was +when they gathered shells on the beach. They never found out the names +of more than those of the limpet, turban, and scallop, though they +picked up baskets full of tiny pink and white beauties, all frail and +of many kinds. These shells were once the homes of sea mollusks, +as such soft, fleshy creatures are called. But to Tom and Retta the +shells were only pretty playthings, to be doll's dishes, or cups, or +pincushions, perhaps. +</p> +<p> +One morning some fishermen saw a shark, and no one dared to go in +bathing for a few days. This great, savage, "man-eater" shark does not +often come north of the Gulf of California. Sometimes small ones are +caught with a hook and line off Catalina Island, and Tom was always +glad to see such sea-tigers destroyed. +</p> +<p> +Of course the children did not want to go home, till at last Mrs. +Ransom explained to them that in the ocean and bay near San Francisco +there were odd fish and strange animals too. And so it turned out, for +in a day's fishing over at Sausalito Tom caught many silver smelt and +tomcod, with flat, ugly flounders, and a red, big-eyed rock-cod. The +frightened boy almost fell out of the boat, too, when he pulled in a +large sting-ray, or "stingaree," as the boatman called it. This queer +three-sided fish, with a sharp, bony sting in its back, flopped round +till the man cut the hook out, knocked its head till it was no longer +able to bite, and threw it overboard. These rays have to be fenced out +of the oyster-beds along the bay, since they have big mouths full +of such strong teeth that they crush an oyster, shell and all, and +destroy every one they can reach. +</p> +<p> +Oysters are grown in great quantities in the oyster-beds along the bay +shore. The largest size, which are called "transplanted," are brought +from the East as very small or baby oysters and dropped into shallow +water, where they cling to rocks or brush-piles till grown. +</p> +<p> +Tom also caught a perch, and clinging to it as he drew in his line +was a large, hard-shelled, long-clawed crab. Tom put the crab in the +basket, knowing well what delicious white meat was in the fellow's +legs and back. +</p> +<p> +Clams that burrow deep in the mud and may be found at low tide, +by digging where their tell-tale bubble of air arises, and the odd +shrimps, so good to eat, the children already knew about. Chinese +fishermen catch shrimps in nets, dry them on the hillsides, and send +both dry meat and shells to China. They dry the meat of the abalone +also, and use the beautiful shells, which you have no doubt seen, for +carving into curios, or making into jewellery. +</p> +<p> +A salt-water creature very destructive to shipping and the wharves is +the teredo, or ship-worm. This brown inch-long worm lives in wood +that is always under water, such as the bottoms of ships and the round +piles you see at the wharves. He hollows or bores out winding tunnels +in the wood with the sharp edge of his shell until the piles crumble +to pieces. This small animal would finally destroy the largest wooden +ship if sheets of copper were not put on the sides and keel to protect +it. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Trout from Lake Tahoe" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1159b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1159b.jpg" width="160" height="104" border="0" + alt="TROUT FROM LAKE TAHOE."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">TROUT FROM LAKE TAHOE. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +When Retta saw Tom's basket of fish she said, "Well, I think the +fresh-water fishes much prettier. I am sure the rainbow and Dolly +Varden trout with their bright-colored spots, which we saw up in the +Truckee River and the mountain lakes last summer, were better to look +at and to eat than these sea monsters." Tom laughed and said, "Oh, +that was because you helped to catch some of those. Do you remember +the big black-spotted trout we saw in Lake Tahoe? And the little +speckled fellows we caught in that clear creek in the redwoods, and +how we wrapped them in wet paper and cooked them at our camp-fire? +I wish we could go up to the McCloud River, though, and see the baby +trout in the fish hatchery there." +</p> +<p> +So their mother told them that the tiny trout eggs were kept in +troughs with clear, cold water running over them till they hatched +out. Then the little things, not half as long as a pin, were placed in +large tin cans and sent to stock brooks and lakes, and in a year or so +they grew big enough to catch. +</p> +<p> +The most valuable of our food-fishes is the salmon, a large +silvery-sided salt-water fish that takes fresh-water journeys too. +For they swim up the rivers every year to lay their eggs in the clear, +cold streams, knowing, perhaps, that the salmon-fry, as the young are +called, will have fewer enemies away from the ocean. The salmon go +over a hundred miles up to the McCloud River to spawn, and will jump +or leap up small falls or rapids in their way. Indians spear many of +them, but a number go back to the ocean again. Thousands and thousands +of ocean salmon are caught along the northern coast and taken to +the canneries. There the fish are put into cans and cooked, and when +sealed up are sent all over the world. California salmon is eaten from +Iceland to India, and its preparation and sale give employment to many +people. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_20"><!-- RULE4 20 --></a> +<h2> + ABOUT CALIFORNIA'S INDIANS +</h2> + +<p> +When the Spanish and English first landed on this part of the New +World's coast, they found the Indians who dwelt inland almost naked, +and living like wild animals on roots and seeds and acorns. The tribes +along the seashore, however, were good hunters and fishermen, and +those Indians along the Santa Barbara Channel and the islands near +by were a tall, fine-looking people, and the most intelligent of the +race. They had large houses and canoes, and clothed themselves in +sealskins. +</p> +<p> +The Indians Drake saw near Point Reyes had fur coats, or cloaks, but +no other clothes. They brought him presents of shell money or wampum, +and of feather head-dresses and baskets. With their bows and arrows +they killed fish or deer or squirrels, and being very strong ran +swiftly after game. They seemed gentle and peaceable with the white +men and each other, and were sorry to have Drake sail away. +</p> +<p> +In later years the Indians who lived here when the Mission Padres came +were stupid and brutish, because they knew nothing better. They were +lazy, dirty, and at first would not work. But the patient Padres +taught them to raise grain and fruit, to build their fine churches, +to weave cloth and blankets, and to tan leather for shoes, saddles, +or harness. But although the Indians learned to be good workmen, +they liked idleness, dancing, and feasting much better, and when the +Missions were given up the Indians soon went back to their former +habits. +</p> +<p> +There were no distinct tribes among these Indians, and they had no +laws. Nor was there a king or chief over many natives. They lived +in small villages or rancherias, each having a name and ruled by a +captain. Each rancheria had its special place to hunt or fish, and had +to fight its own battles with the other families of Indians. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Indian Woman with Pappoose" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1162a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1162a.jpg" width="150" height="179" border="0" + alt="INDIAN WOMAN WITH PAPPOOSE."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">INDIAN WOMAN <br>WITH PAPPOOSE. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +The men did nothing but hunt and fish, or make bows, stone +arrow-heads, nets and traps for game. The women not only had to gather +grass seeds, acorns, and nuts or berries, but they had to do all the +field-work and carry the heavy burdens, usually with a baby strapped +in its basket above the load. In preparing food for cooking, these +mahalas, or squaws, put seed or acorns in a stone mortar and pounded +them to coarse meal or paste. Sometimes a grass-woven basket was +filled with water, and hot stones were thrown in till the water began +to boil. Then acorn or seed meal was put in and cooked into mush. This +meal, or that from wild oats, was also mixed into a dough and baked on +hot stones into bread. Game or fish was eaten raw, or broiled a little +on the coals of the camp-fire. +</p> +<p> +The Indians got many deer, and one way of hunting them was to put the +head and hide of a deer over the hunter's head. The make-believe then +crept along in the high grass till near enough to the quietly feeding +animals to put an arrow through one or more. All the streams were +full of fish then, and salmon swarmed in rivers that ran to the ocean. +These salmon the Indians speared or shot with arrows. They also built +runways or fish-weirs and made them so that the fish would become +crowded into a narrow passage, and could easily be dipped out with +nets or baskets. +</p> +<p> +When the Americans came here they called these Indians "Diggers," +because they lived on what they could dig or root out of the ground. +They were very fond of grasshoppers, and ate them either dried or +raw, or made into a soup with acorn or nut-meal. Fat grubworms and +the flesh of any animal found dead was a great treat. If a whale or +sea-lion was washed ashore on the beach, the Indians gathered round it +for a feast, and soon left only the bones. +</p> +<p> +But they had no idea of saving food, so they fattened when there was +plenty, and starved when dry years made the acorns or nuts scarce. +Having no salt, they did not try to dry or smoke the meat of deer or +other wild animals. Nor did they at first lay up nuts and seeds, as +even the squirrels or woodpeckers do, for winter use. But wandering +from place to place, they camped in the summer along the rivers, where +fish was plenty and the wild oats gave them grain. In the fall they +hunted pine-nuts and berries in the mountains, till snow drove them +down into the valleys. +</p> +<p> +Each Indian town, or rancheria, had a name, and many of these names +are still in use. At the north lived the Klamaths, Siskiyous, Shastas, +and the savage Modocs, whose months of fighting in the lava beds +caused the death of General Canby and many soldiers. The Porno tribes +of Lake county, Yrekas, Hoopas, and Ukiahs, are well known at the +present day. Tehama, Colusa, Tuolumne, Yosemite, and other places +recall the Indians who gave each its name. The San Diego Indians are +still known as Diegueños and live on a reserve, or lands set aside for +them. +</p> +<p> +Almost all the natives had Indian money, called wampum, which they +made from abalone or clam-shells by cutting out round pieces like +buttons or small, hollow beads. Little shells were also used, and the +wampum was strung on grass or on deer sinews. The Pomos still make +thousands of pieces of this money, and so many strings of it will buy +whatever the buck, or Indian man, and his mahala, or squaw, wish to +get. +</p> +<p> +General Bidwell, who came to California in 1841 and surveyed the land +for many ranches, says of the Indians at that time:— +</p> +<p> +"They were almost as wild as deer, and wore no clothes at all except +the women, who had tule aprons fastened to a belt round their waists. +In the rough work of surveying among brush and briars I gave the men +shoes, pantaloons, and shirts, which they would take off when work +was done, carry home in their hands, and put on in time to go to work +again. But they soon learned to sleep in their new things to save +trouble, and would wear them day and night till a suit dropped to +pieces. They were quick to do as the whites did, and when paid in +calico and cloth Saturday night, by Monday they had on their new +skirts or shirts all made up like ours. Yet every Indian would choose +beads for his wages, and go almost naked and hungry till the next +pay-day." +</p> +<p> +General Bidwell treated the Indians honestly and kindly, and in return +they were his friends and helped him much to his advantage. In 1847 he +settled on the great Rancho Chico, and part of his land he gave to the +Mechoopdas, as the Indian rancheria there was called. They worked to +plant orchards and at all his farm-work, and he treated them so fairly +that old men are still living on this ranch who as boys helped the +general in his tree-planting and road-building. A whole village of +these Mechoopdas live on the Bidwell place owning their houses, while +Mrs. Bidwell is their best friend and helps them in sickness and +trouble. The men work in the hop fields and fruit orchards, and the +women make baskets. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustrations: Indian Woman with Baskets; Indian Baskets" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1162b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1162b.jpg" width="150" height="148" border="0" + alt="INDIAN WOMAN WITH BASKETS."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">INDIAN WOMAN <br>WITH BASKETS. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1174.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1174.jpg" width="150" height="147" border="0" + alt="INDIAN BASKETS."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">INDIAN BASKETS. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +All the California Indians are basket-makers, and their work is so +well done and so beautiful that it is much prized. The Pomos of Lake +and Mendocino counties make especially fine baskets for every purpose. +Indeed, the Indian papoose, or baby, is cradled in a basket on his +mother's back; he drinks and eats from cup or bowl-shaped baskets, and +the whole family sleep under a great wicker tent basket thatched +with grass or tules. All Pomo baskets are woven on a frame of willow +shoots, and in and out through this the mahala draws tough grasses or +fine tree roots dyed in different colors, and after the pattern she +chooses. Sometimes she works into the baskets the quail's crest, small +red or yellow feathers from the woodpecker, green from the head of the +mallard duck, or beads. She also hangs wampum or bits of abalone shell +on the finest ones. The storage baskets are four or five feet high to +hold grain or acorns, and the baskets to fit the back and carry a +load are like half a cone in shape, with straps to hold the burden +in place. Their smaller berry baskets hold just a quart. Some are +water-tight and are used to cook mush in. Fish-traps and long narrow +basket-traps for quail are also made out of this willow-work. +</p> +<p> +On the Bidwell ranch is an old Indian "temescal," or sweat-house. It +is an underground hut, or cave dug out of a hillside, with a hole in +the top for smoke to reach the air. The Indians used to build a big +fire in this cave and then lie round it till dripping with sweat. A +cold plunge into the creek near by finished the bath,—Turkish, we +call it. Nowadays the Indians use this place for a meeting-room and +for dances. +</p> +<p> +The older Indians still dance and rig out in all their finery of +feathers and beads, though the young people are ashamed of their +tribal customs and wish to be like the white folks. Some of their +dances are named for a bird or animal, and the Indians must imitate by +their dress and cries the animal chosen. In the bear dance the dancer +crawls about the fire on all fours with a bear's skin about him. He +wears a chain of oak-balls round his neck, and as he shakes his head +these rattle like a bear's teeth snapping shut, while all the time he +growls savagely. The feather-dancer, with a skirt and cap of eagles' +feathers, will whirl on his toes like a top for hours, while the other +Indians sing and the master of the dance shakes a large rattle. +</p> +<p> +The California Indians are slowly passing away, and though all over +the state there are still rancherias, the land that was once their +very own will soon know them no more. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_21"><!-- RULE4 21 --></a> +<h2> + THE STORY OF SAN FRANCISCO +</h2> + +<p> +The Mission and Presidio of San Francisco were founded in 1776 by +Father Palou, and two little settlements grew up around the fort and +at the church. The Presidio was built where it is now, and ships used +to anchor in the bay in front of it, though the whalers usually went +to Sausalito to get wood from the hills and to fill their water-casks +at a large spring. From early Mission times the Spanish name of Yerba +Buena was given to that part of San Francisco's peninsula between +Black Point and Rincon Point. Ship-captains and sailors soon found out +that the cove or bay east of Yerba Buena was the best and least windy +place to anchor their vessels, and later on hundreds of ships found +a safe harbor there. The name Yerba Buena, or good herb, was given +on account of a little creeping vine with sweet-smelling leaves which +covered the ground and is still found on the sand-dunes and Presidio +hills. +</p> +<p> +For many years the small settlements made no progress, and the rest +of the peninsula was covered with thick woods, where the grizzly bear, +wolf, and coyote roamed, while deer were plenty at the Presidio. Then +in 1835 Governor Figueroa, the Mexican ruler of California, directed +that a new town should be started at Yerba Buena cove. The first +street, called the "foundation-street," was laid out from Pine and +Kearny streets, as they are called to-day, to North Beach. The first +house was built by Captain Richardson on what is now Dupont Street, +between Clay and Washington. The next year a trader named Jacob Leese +built a store. It was finished on the Fourth of July, and in honor of +the day he gave a feast and a fandango, or dance, at which the company +danced that night and all the next day. This was the first Fourth +celebrated in the place. +</p> +<p> +Two or three years later a new survey laid out streets between +Broadway and California, Montgomery and Powell. A fresh-water lagoon, +or lake, was near the present corner of Montgomery and Sacramento, +and an Indian temescal, or sweat-house, beside it. The bay came up +to Montgomery Street then, with five feet of water at Sansome, and +mudflats to the east. During the gold excitement of '49, when hundreds +of ships dropped anchor in the bay, many sailors deserted to go to the +mines, and some of the old vessels were hauled in on these mud-flats +and made into storehouses. All that part of the city east of +Montgomery Street is filled or made ground, and when new buildings are +to be started wooden piles or cement piers must go down to get a firm +foundation. +</p> +<p> +Until 1846 only about thirty families lived at Yerba Buena. Then a +shipload of Mormon emigrants arrived and pitched their tents in the +sand-hills. Samuel Brannan, their leader, printed the first newspaper, +<i>The California Star</i>, in '47. That year also the first alcalde, +or mayor, of the new town, Lieutenant Bartlett, appointed an engineer +named O'Farrell to lay out more streets. He surveyed Market Street and +mapped down blocks as far west on the sand-dunes as Taylor Street and +to Rincon Point or South Beach. He gave the names of such well-known +men as Kearny, Stockton, Larkin, Guerrero, and Geary to these streets. +Mission Street was the road to the Mission Dolores, and about this +time Bartlett ordered that the Presidio, the Mission, and Yerba Buena +should be one town and should be called San Francisco. +</p> +<p> +Then came the gold fever, and nearly every one left town to go to the +mines. Many people sold all they had to get money to buy mining tools +and food enough to live on till they struck gold. Men started for the +mines, leaving their houses and stores alone with no one to care for +goods or furniture. +</p> +<p> +But news of the finding of gold had reached other places, and soon +ships from the Atlantic coast, Mexico, and all over the world +began sailing into San Francisco Bay. In '49 the first steamer, the +<i>California</i>, arrived from New York, and soon five thousand +people were in San Francisco, where most of the supplies for the +gold-fields had to be bought. Many of the newcomers lived in canvas +tents or brush-covered shanties scattered about in the high sand-hills +or in the thick chaparral. Some houses were built of adobe bricks, +and the two-story frame Parker House was thought to be so fine that it +rented for fifteen thousand dollars a month. Some wooden houses were +brought out from the East in numbered pieces, like children's blocks, +to be put together here, and others thought to be fireproof were of +iron plates made in the East. +</p> +<p> +The first public school was opened in '48 and in the same building +church services were held Sundays. The first post-office was in a +store at the corner of Washington and Montgomery streets in '49. By +1850 the city had five square miles of land that had been cut down +from sand-hills or filled in on the mud-flats. The houses along the +city-front were built on piles, and the tide ebbed and flowed under +them. Long wharves for the unloading of ships ran out into deep water. +At Jackson and Battery streets a ship was used for a storehouse, and +after the earth was filled in this stranded vessel was left +standing among the houses. On Clay and Sansome streets the old hulk +<i>Niantic</i> had a hotel upon her decks, and the first city prison +was in the hold of the brig <i>Euphemia</i>. +</p> +<p> +While most of the miners were steady, hard-working men, honest, and +very kind and generous to each other, some drank and gambled their +hard-earned gold-dust away with a get +of men who were ready to do any wrong thing for money. The gamblers +and bad characters grew so troublesome by '51 that the police could +do little or nothing with them. Every day some one was robbed, +or murdered, and thieves often set fire to houses that they might +plunder. As the judges and police could not control these criminals, +nearly two hundred good citizens formed a "vigilance committee." It +was agreed that bad characters should be told to leave town, and that +robbers and murderers should be punished by the committee. Not +long after, the vigilance committee hanged four men, and roughs and +law-breakers left town for the mines. Men soon learned to keep the +laws and do right. +</p> +<p> +Since almost all the houses in San Francisco were light frames of wood +covered with cloth or paper, and since there was no fire department, +there were six great fires, each of which nearly burnt up the town. +The only way to stop the flames was to pull down houses or to blow +them up with gunpowder. But almost before the ashes of one fire had +cooled, wooden, cloth and paper buildings would cover whole blocks, to +be burned again before long. The fifth great fire, in '51, destroyed a +thousand houses and ten million dollars' worth of property in a night. +One warehouse containing many barrels of vinegar was saved by covering +the roof with blankets dipped in the vinegar, as no water could be +had. The iron houses that had been thought fire-proof were of no use. +Men who stayed in them found too late that the iron doors swelled with +the heat and could not be opened, so that those within were smothered +to death. +</p> +<p> +Then people began to guard against such fires by building new houses +of stone or of brick. The sixth great fire destroyed most of the +wooden buildings in the business part of the city. After that, +with two or three fire companies and engines and better houses, +people no longer dreaded the fire-bell. Water was piped into the city +from Mountain Lake, and there was plenty for all purposes. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Entrance to Japanese Tea Garden, San Francisco" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1179.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1179.jpg" width="156" height="150" border="0" + alt="ENTRANCE TO JAPANESE TEA GARDEN, SAN FRANCISCO."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">ENTRANCE TO JAPANESE + <br>TEA GARDEN, <br>SAN FRANCISCO. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +So the city grew larger, until in '53 there were fifty thousand people +of all races and countries who called San Francisco home. Chinese and +Japanese, the Mexican, African, Pacific Islander, Greek, or Turk, or +Malay elbowed crowds of Americans, English, French, and Germans. It +was said that any foreigner could find in the city those who spoke his +language, and that gold was a word all knew. +</p> +<p> +The largest yield of gold from the mines was in '53, and the next +year was a poor year for the miners. They bought fewer goods in San +Francisco, and the storekeepers found business falling off. Too many +houses had been built, so rents went down and times were hard for +a year or two. In '55 there were many bank failures, and business +troubles of all kinds made the people restless, and roughs and +murderers carried a strong hand. Then the "law and order party," as +the vigilance committee was at that time called, began once more +the task of punishing those who robbed or killed. A list of criminal +offenders was made out, and such were sent away from the state. +One excellent result of the vigilance committee's labors was that a +"people's party," as it was called, chose the best men to govern the +city, and for years after peace and order were in San Francisco. +</p> +<p> +In '54 the city was lighted with gas for the first time, at a cost of +fifteen dollars a thousand feet. In that year also the mint began to +coin money from gold-dust, making five, ten and twenty-dollar pieces. +Lone Mountain Cemetery was laid out about this time, and the old Yerba +Buena graveyard, where the City Hall now stands, was closed. +</p> +<p> +San Francisco had, for some years, trouble about titles to property, +owing to false or defective land-grants given by the Mexicans. Men +tried to take possession of lots they had no real claim to by building a +shanty on the ground and squatting there, and the "squatter troubles" +between such land thieves and the rightful owners caused lawsuits and +shooting affairs. A land commission finally settled these disputes, +throwing out all the false claims and giving titles to the proper persons. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: The New Cliff House, San Francisco" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1177b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1177b.jpg" width="158" height="148" border="0" + alt="THE NEW CLIFF HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">THE NEW CLIFF HOUSE, <br>SAN FRANCISCO. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +The little village of Yerba Buena has now grown to be the largest +city on the Pacific coast and one that is known the world over. It is +widely and justly celebrated as the centre of great manufacturing +and shipping interests, for its fine buildings, its climate, and its +beautiful surroundings. San Francisco Bay, the harbor the Franciscans +named for their patron saint, is noted for its picturesque scenery. +Golden Gate Park, with its thousand acres of trees and lawn and +flowers stretching out to the Pacific Ocean, the famous Cliff House, +and the Golden Gate, through which so many Argonauts sailed into +California, are the most attractive and best known places. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_22"><!-- RULE4 22 --></a> +<h2> + MEN CALIFORNIA REMEMBERS +</h2> + +<p> +Many pages of this book might be filled with California's roll of +honor,—with that long list of men whose names are remembered whenever +the state's history is recalled. +</p> +<p> +Explorers, Mission-builders, Argonauts, and pioneers were the men who +helped to make California the fair state you know and live in. From +the first day of the Spanish discoveries on this shore of the Pacific +Ocean, we find brave and great men who gave their best efforts, and +sometimes their lives, for California. +</p> +<p> +Let us head our brief list with Cortes, the name-giver, who dreamed +long years of the golden land he was never to see. Then Cabrillo, the +sea-king whom San Diego people honor every year because he found their +bay and first set foot on California's ground. Next comes the bold +Englishman, Sir Admiral Francis Drake, who intended that his queen, +Elizabeth, should have this Indian kingdom, as he believed it to +be. The stone Prayer-book Cross, in Golden Gate Park, was put up to +commemorate the service of prayer and psalms, offered at Drake's Bay +by Fletcher, the minister on the Admiral's ship. +</p> +<p> +Good Father Serra, the founder of the Missions, his friend +and brother-priest Father Palou of San Francisco, and their +fellow-laborers Crespi and Lasuen, helped in the work of building +churches and teaching the Indians. Governor Portola, the first Spanish +ruler of Alta California, assisted the Padres, and also found San +Francisco Bay. Lieutenant Ayala, however, sailed the first ship, the +<i>San Carlos</i>, through the Golden Gate. Another governor, de Neve, +founded San José and Los Angeles, and wrote a set of laws for the two +Californias of his time. That wise ruler, Governor Borica, ordered +schools opened and tried to get the Indians to farm their lands and to +raise hemp and flax. +</p> +<p> +Many of the old Spanish settlers and explorers have left us their +names, though they are themselves forgotten, as Martinez, Amador, +Castro, Bodega, and countless others plainly show. The Englishmen +Livermore, Gilroy and Mark West, those early settlers, Temple and Rice +at Los Angeles, Yount and Pope of Napa Valley, Don Timoteo Murphy of +San Rafael, and Lassen the Dane, for whom Lassen's Peak was named, +were among those who came here before 1830. +</p> +<p> +Governor Figueroa, called the "benefactor of Alta California" ordered +the Missions to be given up to the Indians. By directing that the +town of Yerba Buena should be laid out, he also is remembered as the +founder of San Francisco. Richardson, who carried out the governor's +orders, was the first settler and Leese built the first frame-house of +San Francisco. +</p> +<p> +In Governor Alvarado's time many Americans came to the new country, +although Alvarado and General Vallejo tried hard to keep them out. +Vallejo was then the military commander, and had headquarters at +Sonoma, where he had an adobe fort and a few soldiers to protect the +Mission of Solano. Here General Vallejo was living with his Indian and +Californian settlers when the place was taken by Ide, the leader +of the "bear-flag party." Vallejo, set free when the short-lived +"bear-flag republic" went to pieces, lived many years at Sonoma. He +was afterwards a member of the first legislature. He tried hard in +1851 to have the state capital at Vallejo; but he failed, for he did +not keep his agreement to put up buildings for government use. +</p> +<p> +A man well known in the early days was John Sutter, a Swiss, who built +a fort and settled where Sacramento now stands. He called his colony +New Helvetia, and soon had about three hundred Indians at work for +him. Some of the men were carpenters, blacksmiths, and farmers, while +the women wove blankets or a coarse cloth. His fort enclosed about an +acre of ground, with an adobe wall twenty feet high. A large gate was +shut every night to keep safe those inside this walled fort. You have +read that Marshall, who found gold, was building a sawmill for Sutter +when he picked up the precious yellow nuggets. Sutter and Marshall +quarrelled at last about the ownership of the mill at Coloma, where +the pieces of gold were picked up. Marshall died a poor man, unhappy +and neglected by the state, which has since put a costly bronze statue +over his grave. +</p> +<p> +Sutter was very active in the Micheltorena war, when Governor +Micheltorena was defeated and put out of office by Alvarado and +Castro. +</p> +<p> +The last of the Mexican governors, Pio Pico, tried his best to +prevent the rush of Americans into his country, but though Castro, +the military commander, helped him, the Americans came and stayed. And +both Pico and Castro with their soldiers were driven out of California +at last by Fremont and Stockton. +</p> +<p> +General Fremont, the "path-finder," who could easily find the best way +through a wilderness and could make maps or roads for others to +follow him, is a striking figure in California history. He made three +exploring trips to this coast, Kit Carson, the famous hunter and +trapper, being his guide and scout. From the Oregon line to San Diego, +Fremont knew the country. He was a brave Indian fighter and helped to +capture California from Mexico. Fremont was appointed governor of the +new territory by Stockton, and was the first senator from California +representing the state in Congress. In 1848 Fremont sent a map of the +country to Congress, and on it named the strait at the entrance to +San Francisco Bay the Golden Gate. He was, therefore, the first to use +this beautiful name now known the world over. His wife, Jessie Benton +Fremont, is still living in Los Angeles. +</p> +<p> +Commodore Sloat, who raised the American flag at Monterey, and +Commodore Stockton were United States naval officers who helped to +conquer the Mexican and Indian forces with the aid of Fremont and +General Kearny. These four men won the land of gold for the Union. +</p> +<p> +General John Bidwell, another "path-finder," who in 1841 led the first +party of white men over the Sierras, lived to be over eighty years of +age. He saw the state, once a wilderness where naked Digger Indians +chased elk and antelope, grow to a pleasant land of orchards and +vineyards, of great cities full of people. General Bidwell was for a +time in Sutter's employ, and surveyed nearly all the large ranches +and the roads in early days. All his life he planted trees and built +roads, and at his great Rancho Chico is one of the largest orchards in +the state. Part of his life-work was to help a tribe of savage Indians +to be good American citizens, and as one of the fathers of California +he should always be remembered. +</p> +<p> +Many notable names appear in the days when the finding of gold brought +this shore of the Pacific Ocean before the eyes of the world. Among +these are Gwin, who was chosen senator with Fremont; Larkin, widely +known as the first and last American Consul to California and for his +accounts of the gold discovery; and Halleck, first secretary of the +state and afterward General Halleck. +</p> +<p> +The streets of San Francisco honor some of the citizens of 1848 and +1849: Geary, the first postmaster; Leavenworth and Hyde, the first +alcaldes or mayors; Van Ness, Broderick, Turk, and McAllister, +recalling prominent men of those days. Spanish families like Sanchez, +Castro, Noe, Bernal, and Guerrero had also a place on the city map. +Indeed, every town has some native Californian names in and around it. +</p> +<p> +Don Victor Castro, said to be the first white child born in San +Francisco, died lately at San Pablo in the house he had built sixty +years ago. He was called the last of the Spanish grandees, those dons +who, before the Gringos came, had estates that stretched miles away +on every hand, and thousands of cattle with many Indian servants. Don +Victor built and ran the first ferry across San Francisco Bay. +</p> +<p> +Sacramento was laid out as a town for Sutter by three lieutenants of +the U.S. army: Warner, who was afterwards killed by Indians; Ord, +who was a general in the Civil War, while the third, in after years +"marched through Georgia" as General Sherman. Marysville was also laid +out by Sutter, and Stockton by Weber, who owned all the land around +it. +</p> +<p> +In 1849 Doctor Gregg and his party found Humboldt Bay. In 1851 +Yosemite Valley was discovered by Major Savage and a company of +soldiers, who were out hunting hostile Indians. This band of Indians +was called the Yosemites, and their old chief's name was Tenaya, for +whom the beautiful lake is named. +</p> +<p> +Those who came to California before 1850 were called pioneers, and +many of them built up great fortunes. Among them were Coleman, the +president of the vigilance committee, Sharon, Flood, Fair, O'Brien, +Tevis, Phelan, and James Lick. Lick was a remarkable man, who gave +away an immense fortune; building the Lick Observatory, a school of +mechanical arts, free public baths, an old ladies' home, and giving +a million to the Academy of Science and the Society of California +Pioneers. +</p> +<p> +In later days the names crowd thickly upon each other. Among editors +and literary men the fearless and ill-fated James King of the +<i>Evening Bulletin</i>, J. Ross Browne, the reporter of the first +convention and a most interesting writer, Derby the humorist, "Caxton" +or W.H. Rhodes, Mark Twain, Bret Harte, the historians Hittell and +Bancroft, and the poet Joaquin Miller may be noted. +</p> +<p> +The governors of the state have been men remarkable as brilliant +speakers or lawyers and as wise rulers. In 1875, during the time of +Pacheco, the first native-born governor, the order of "Native Sons of +the Golden West" was formed, which now numbers over ten thousand young +California men. The "Native Daughters," a sister society, follows also +the idea of keeping the love of California warm in the hearts of her children. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_23"><!-- RULE4 23 --></a> +<h2> + OUR GLORIOUS CLIMATE +</h2> + +<p> +Not only a glorious but in many ways a wonderful climate is enjoyed +by the people of California's sea-coast and mountains, her valleys and +foot-hills. In no other state can one find so many kinds of weather +in such short distances. For instance, in Southern California you may +pick flowers and oranges in almost tropical gardens, and in an hour +find winter and throw snowballs on the high mountains overlooking the +roses and orange groves you so lately left. +</p> +<p> +Only in the mountains, along that granite backbone of the state known +as the Sierra Nevadas, are there four seasons, the spring, summer, +autumn, and winter common to most of the United States. So the Sierras +have a distinct climate of their own. The Sacramento and San Joaquin +river valleys have another climate peculiar to themselves, while south +of latitude 35 degrees the coast has less rain and is warmer than the +coast counties north of that line. +</p> +<p> +In the greater part of the state the year is divided into a dry summer +and a wet winter. The rains begin in October, and the first showers +fall on dry, brown hills and dusty fields baked hard by steady +sunshine since May. After these showers the grass springs up, and +the fields are green almost as quickly as if some fairy godmother had +waved her wand. An army of wild flowers, whose seeds were hidden in +the brown earth, wakes when the rain-drops patter, and the plants get +ready to bloom in a month or so. For this season, from November to +February, with little frost and no ice nor snow, is winter in name +only. Roses and violets bloom in the gardens and yellow poppies on the +hills. +</p> +<p> +People expect and hope for much rain in this so-called winter, since a +wet year assures good crops to the state. But the amount of rain that +falls is very uncertain. It does not rain every day, nor all day, as a +rule, and each storm seems different. Sometimes a "southeaster" blows +up from the Japan Current, or Black Stream, as the Japanese call the +warm, dark-blue waters that pour out of the China Sea. This current of +the Pacific Ocean flows along our coast in a mighty river a thousand +miles wide, and gives California its peculiar climate of cool summers +and moist, warm winters. The southeasterly wind ruffles the bay with +white-capped waves and dashes sheets of rain against window and roof. +Then the wind changes, and all the clouds go flying to north or east, +while from the clear blue sky brilliant sunshine pours down to make +the grass and flowers grow. During the winter months the sun is strong +and warm enough to make out-door life delightful. +</p> +<p> +The farmer depends greatly upon the rainfall. In a wet winter the +moisture sinks far into the ground, but not so deep that the thirsty +little roots cannot find it in the summer. Early rains are needed to +soften the ground for November ploughing, and young grain and crops of +all kinds need rain through April. In the northern part of the state +the wet season begins earlier and lasts longer than in the south, +while the southeastern corner is an almost rainless desert. +</p> +<p> +In San Francisco the thermometer seldom falls below 45° in the winter, +the average for the season being 51°. Perhaps in January or February +the sidewalks may be white with frost in the mornings, or hail may +fall during some cold rain-storm. Once in five years or so, enough +snow falls to make children go wild with delight over a few snowballs +which are very soon melted. People can be comfortable the year round +without fires, and the clear, bright winter days with soft air and +warm sunshine are always pleasant enough to spend outdoors. This +ocean climate, due to the warm sea air, is enjoyed by the counties +facing the coast and San Francisco Bay. In the valleys of the interior +white frosts are frequent, and thin ice forms on the wayside puddles. +Once in a while killing frosts destroy fruit blossoms and cut down the +garden flowers and vegetables, but seldom do more damage. +</p> +<p> +In mountain regions, above five or six thousand feet, the very cold +winter lasts six or seven months. Snow falls almost constantly and +drifts to a great depth. Small lakes are frozen and buried in snow, +and the trees are bent and weighed down with ice and sleet. Many of +the wild animals come down to the foot-hills below the snow-line to +spend the winter; but the bear curls himself up in his warm cave and +sleeps through the cold months. In this snowy zone of the Sierras, +about thirty miles wide, winter lasts from the first snowfall, about +the end of October, to the late spring of June. Then July and August +are months of glorious weather, with clear, dry air and a cloudless +sky. During the day the temperature of about 80 degrees melts much +snow, and the rivers carry it away in rushing torrents and falls of +icy water. In September the frost turns the leaves of all but the +evergreen trees beautiful colors of red and yellow. Indian summer +comes during September and October, when the days are sunny and warm, +and then the long winter sets in again. Peaks above eight thousand +feet are snow-clad on their crests and along their sides by deep +drifts the year round. +</p> +<p> +Along the Pacific coast in summer cool sea-winds, called trade-winds, +blow in from the ocean, and 60 degrees is the average temperature. The +farther you go inland from the coast, the hotter it gets, and the heat +is very great in the interior of the state. In the San Joaquin and +Sacramento valleys it is often over 100 degrees in the shade, though +this dry heat is not hard to bear, and the nights are always cool +enough for one to sleep in comfort. +</p> +<p> +Summer fogs are usual in the coast counties. The mornings are pleasant +and sunny till about eleven o'clock. At this time the sun's rays +grow stronger in the interior valleys, and the hot air rises while +trade-winds rush in from the cold ocean and fog settles down like a +thick, gray cloud over the bay and hills. July and August are cold and +foggy along the coastline, with strong west winds almost every day. In +September the winds die away, and sometimes a shower or two falls. +</p> +<p> +The rainless desert, or southeastern corner of our state, is the +hottest region of all. Here the sun glares down till sand and rocks +seem heated by a fiery furnace. Every living creature gasps and pants +for breath in the scorching heat. There are no trees, but only cactus, +that queer, prickly, thorny plant, often fifteen or twenty feet +high in these wastes of sand, and low greasewood bushes. Under this +vegetation snakes, lizards, and horned toads bask all day and search +for food at night. If travellers wander from the road in crossing the +desert, they are easily lost, and sometimes they die or go mad in the +terrible heat. There are no springs, and water stations are a long way +apart, so that lost people usually die of thirst. As the heat of the +sun's rays quivers over the burning sands, a curious sight called +a mirage is often produced. A cool, glassy lake or flowing river +bordered with green trees seems pictured in the air, and the hot and +weary traveller can scarcely believe that only sand and rocks are +before him. +</p> +<p> +Can you tell which season you like the best? You will find the one you +choose in some part of this favored state. It is always summer in the +south, and you may slide on the ice or throw snowballs all year in the +high Sierras. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_24"><!-- RULE4 24 --></a> +<h2> + SOME WONDERFUL SIGHTS +</h2> + +<p> +California is a wonderland where snowy mountains, mighty and ancient +forests, glaciers and geysers, lakes and waterfalls, foaming rivers +and the cliffs and rolling surf down her long sea-coast give new and +beautiful pictures at every place. +</p> +<p> +Through the whole state stretches the granite backbone of the Sierra +Nevadas with its highest crest or ridge at the head-waters of the +Kings and Kern rivers near Fresno. Here Mount Whitney and a dozen +other great peaks of the High Sierras or California Alps lift their +heads over thirteen thousand feet in the air. Here are to be seen most +magnificent panoramas of lofty peaks, deep cañons, towering domes, and +snow-clad summits. The finest forests, too, in the world grow on the +slopes of the Sierras, the immense pines and giant <i>sequoias</i> of +the General Grant and other National Parks in this section being the +largest and oldest of all. Kings River cañon is a rugged gorge half a +mile deep with the river rushing through it in thundering rapids and +cascades. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustrations: 'El Capitan' mountain; Yosemite Falls" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1194a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1194a.jpg" width="152" height="150" border="0" + alt="'EL CAPITAN' (3300 feet in height)"> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">"EL CAPITAN"<br>(3300 feet in height) + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><br> <a href="images/lg1194b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1194b.jpg" width="155" height="150" border="0" + alt="YOSEMITE FALLS."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">YOSEMITE FALLS. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +The well-known Yosemite Valley is the gorge of the Merced River and, +though only eight miles long and half a mile wide, holds the grandest +of all our mountain scenery. The mighty rock El Capitan, over three +thousand feet in height, stands at the entrance to the valley, and +across from it is Bridal Veil Fall, a snowy cascade so thin you can +see the face of the mountain through the falling waters. There are +many waterfalls, but the Yosemite is chief of them all. Here the river +takes a plunge of sixteen hundred feet, the water falling like snowy +rockets bursting into spray from that great height. +</p> +<p> +Then, for six hundred feet more, the torrent leaps and foams through +a trench it has cut out of the solid rock to the cliff, from which it +takes a second plunge. This Lower Yosemite fall is four hundred feet +high, the rushing waters turning into clouds of spray, which the wind +tosses from side to side. At Nevada Fall the Merced River leaps six +hundred feet at a bound, strikes a mass of rocks halfway down, and +breaks into white foam upon which rainbows play when the sun shines +through the misty veil. +</p> +<p> +Besides the grand Sentinel Rock, Eagle Peak, Clouds' Rest, and other +high mountains in the Yosemite Valley, many domes or round-topped +peaks like the heads of buried giants loom up, the most famous being +South Dome, Washington Column, Liberty Cap, and Mount Broderick. +</p> +<p> +But no one can picture this wonderful valley with pen or brush or +camera and give its real charm. You must see it yourself to know and +understand the beauty of great mountains and falling waters, of Mirror +Lake with its fine reflections of the surrounding scenery, and of the +rushing torrent of the Merced River in its swift coursing through this +mighty cañon of the Yosemite. Thousands of tourists and sightseers +visit the valley from May to October. Then snow begins to fall and +winter sets in, as it does everywhere in the high Sierras. Very deep +snow-drifts cover the ground, lakes and rivers freeze, and the great +falls are fringed with icicles, while a large ice cone forms at the +foot of the falling water. Many beautiful pictures may be found in +the valley in winter when Jack Frost is ruler of all the snow-clad, +ice-bound cañon. +</p> +<p> +Scattered throughout the Sierras are other valleys almost as fine +as the Yosemite. These are not often reached by the army of summer +sight-seers, but true mountaineers find them. One valley which has +fine scenery is the Grand cañon of the Tuolumne, the gorge being +twenty-five miles long, with walls so high and steep that once entered +one must go through to the end. The Tuolumne River rushes, with +terrible force and speed, in cascades and rapids down the granite +stairway which is the floor of this cañon. The walls of the gorge +rise so high that the traveller only sees a tiny strip of blue sky far +above him, and the great pine trees on top of these cliff walls seem +only the length of one's finger. +</p> +<p> +It is supposed that all these valleys have been formed by glaciers, +which during the ice age, thousands of years ago, filled the cañons +and swept over the mountains. These masses of ice, moving very slowly, +ground and tore up the rocks under and around them till deep gorges +and steep, high cliffs were left in their tracks. Most of the glaciers +melted long ago, but on Mount Lyell, on Shasta, and a few of the +Sierra summits may still be found those ever-living ice-rivers, the +one on Mount Lyell being the source of the Tuolumne River. +</p> +<p> +California is rich in lakes, especially in the mountains where the +melting snows gather in every hollow and form lakelets in chains or +groups, or in one large body of water like Tahoe, Donner, or Tenaya +lakes. +</p> +<p> +One of the most beautiful lakes in the world is Lake Tahoe. It is six +thousand feet above sea-level, and the mountains around it rise four +thousand feet higher. On these peaks snow-drifts lie the year round +above the "snow-line," as a height over eight or nine thousand feet +is called. Nevada, treeless and barren, is on the eastern side of +Lake Tahoe, while the western or California side is green and thickly +wooded with beautiful pines. But the first thing one would notice, +perhaps, is the wonderful clearness of the lake water. As one stands +on the wharf the steamer <i>Tahoe</i> seems to be hanging in the clear +green depths with her keel and twin propellers in plain sight. The +fish dart under her and all about as in some large aquarium. There a +big lake-trout shoots by like a silver streak of light, or here is a +school of hundreds of little fingerlings. Every stick or stone shows +on the bottom as one starts out on the steamer, and as one sails +along where the water is sixty or seventy feet deep. In the middle +the lake's depth is fifteen hundred feet and the water is a dark +indigo-blue. At the edge and along shallow places the color is bright +green, as at Emerald Bay, a beautiful inlet three miles long. Lake +Tahoe is twenty miles in length and about five wide, and its icy cold +waters are of crystal clearness and very pure. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Fallen Leaf Lake" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1191a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1191a.jpg" width="160" height="148" border="0" + alt="FALLEN LEAF LAKE."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">FALLEN LEAF LAKE. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Fallen Leaf Lake is a smaller Tahoe, and Donner Lake, not far from +Truckee, and now the camping-place of many a summer visitor, is the +place where years ago the Donner overland party spent a terrible +winter in the Sierra snows. +</p> +<p> +Clear Lake and the Blue Lakes in Lake County are delightful places +to visit, and in this county, too, are the geysers. Some wonderful +curiosities are seen here. You will find springs that spout up a +stream of hot water every few minutes, mineral springs from which +you can have a drink of soda water, and an acid spring that flows +lemonade. Alum, iron, or sulphur waters, either hot or cold, bubble +up out of the ground at every turn. At one spring you may boil an +egg. Other springs are used for steam baths and also hot mud-baths. In +Geyser cañon is the strange place every sight-seer hurries to at once. +Such rumblings and thunderings, such hot vapors and gases come from +the cracks in the ground, that the Indians thought this was the +workshop where the bad spirit which white people call the devil used +to live and work. The deeper one goes into this cañon, the hotter and +noisier it gets. All round are signs telling where it is dangerous +to step, while the ground is hot, and boiling water runs by in little streams. +Steam rises from many pools, and the sulphur smell almost chokes one. +Another curious spring, called the devil's inkstand, seems full of ink. +Mount St. Helena, near here, is a dead or extinct volcano, and probably there +are fires in the earth under this region which keep up these steam and +sulphur springs. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Mount Shasta from Strawberry Valley." +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1191b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1191b.jpg" width="160" height="145" border="0" + alt="MOUNT SHASTA FROM STRAWBERRY VALLEY."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">MOUNT SHASTA FROM <br>STRAWBERRY VALLEY. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Many of the Sierra summits are capped with volcanic rock, and Lassen's +Peak and Mount Shasta are extinct volcanoes. There are hot springs and +cracks from which steam and sulphur rise on both of these mountains, +and as earthquakes often shake the earth in different parts of the +state we know that underground fires are still at work. A great piece +of land on Mount San Jacinto in Southern California lately sank down +about a hundred feet, and cracks both deep and wide show that some +force from below gave a thorough shaking-up to that part of the state. +</p> +<p> +Mono, Owen's, and several other large lakes are the "sinks" into which +rivers flow and lose themselves in the sandy or marshy shores. These +lakes have soda or salt in their waters, and great stretches of dry +alkali lands around them. The famous Death Valley is a dry lake of +this kind where the sun beats down on the white alkali plain till it +is almost certain death to try to cross it without a guide. The +Salton Sea is a dry lake where almost pure salt is dug out, and great +quantities of borax and of soda are found in other beds, of dried-up +streams and lakes. +</p> +<p> +But to tell of all the curious things nature has to show us in +California,—of the forests of petrified trees, of the caverns cut out +of the ocean cliffs by restless waves, or of those in the mountains or +the Modoc lava-beds,—well, you will see most of them, let us hope, in +your vacations. A large book might be given to the wonderful sights +of this great state, and it may be your fortune to visit and so always +remember a few we have named. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<div align="center"><h3>PRONOUNCING VOCABULARY</h3></div> + +<p class="list">Alta (äl´-ta).</p> +<p class="list">Amador (am´-a-dore).</p> +<p class="list">Alvarado (al-va-rä´-do).</p> +<p class="list">Ayala (ä-yä´-la).</p> +<p class="list">Bernal (ber-nal´).</p> +<p class="list">Bodega (bo-dā´-ga).</p> +<p class="list">Cabrillo (ka-breel´-yo).</p> +<p class="list">Calaveras (kal-a-vā´-ras).</p> +<p class="list">Carmel (kar´-mel).</p> +<p class="list">Castro (kas´-tro).</p> +<p class="list">Cortes (kor´-tez).</p> +<p class="list">Coloma (ko-lo´-ma).</p> +<p class="list">Diegueño (de-ā-gwān´-yo).</p> +<p class="list">Farallones (făr´-a-lones).</p> +<p class="list">Figueroa (fi-gwa-ro´-a).</p> +<p class="list">Franciscan (fran-cis´-can).</p> +<p class="list">Galvez (gal´-ves).</p> +<p class="list">Gringos (gring´-gos).</p> +<p class="list">Guerrero (gur-rā´-ro).</p> +<p class="list">Junipero Serra (hū-nip´-er-o ser´-ra).</p> +<p class="list">Klamath (klam´-eth).</p> +<p class="list">Los Angeles (los an´-ga-lees).</p> +<p class="list">Marin (ma-rin´).</p> +<p class="list">Mariposa (mar-e-po´-sa).</p> +<p class="list">Martinez (mar-tee´-nes).</p> +<p class="list">Mechoopdas (me-choop´-das).</p> +<p class="list">Mission Dolores (mis´-sion do-lōr´-es).</p> +<p class="list">Modocs (mo´-docs).</p> +<p class="list">Monterey (mon-ta-ray´).</p> +<p class="list">Noe (no´-a).</p> +<p class="list">Ortega (or-tā´-ga).</p> +<p class="list">Pacheco (pä-chā´-ko).</p> +<p class="list">Padres (pa´-drays).</p> +<p class="list">Palou (pa´-loo).</p> +<p class="list">Pio Pico (pe´-o pe´-ko).</p> +<p class="list">Placerville (plăs´-er-vil).</p> +<p class="list">Point Reyes (rays).</p> +<p class="list">Pomos (po´-mos).</p> +<p class="list">Portola (por-to´-la).</p> +<p class="list">San Antonio (san an-tō-ni-ō).</p> +<p class="list">Sanchez (san´-ches).</p> +<p class="list">San Carlos (san kar´-lōs).</p> +<p class="list">San Diego (san de-ā´-go).</p> +<p class="list">San Fernando (san fer-nan´-do).</p> +<p class="list">San Francisco (san fran-cis´-co).</p> +<p class="list">San Gabriel (san ga-brell´).</p> +<p class="list">San Jacinto (san ha-sin´-to).</p> +<p class="list">San Joaquin (san waw-keen´).</p> +<p class="list">San Jose (san ho-say´).</p> +<p class="list">San Juan Bautista (san wawn ba-tis´-ta).</p> +<p class="list">San Juan Capistrano (san wawn kap-is-tra´-no).</p> +<p class="list">San Luis Obispo (san loo-is o-bis´-po).</p> +<p class="list">San Miguel (san mig-gell´).</p> +<p class="list">Santa Barbara (san´-ta bar´-ba-ra).</p> +<p class="list">Santa Catalina (san´-ta kat-a-lee´-na).</p> +<p class="list">Santa Cruz (san´-ta krooz).</p> +<p class="list">Santa Lucia (san´-ta loo-she´-a).</p> +<p class="list">Santa Ysabel (san´-ta ē´-sa-bel).</p> +<p class="list">Santa Ynez (san´-ta e´-nes).</p> +<p class="list">Sausalito (saw-sa-lee´-to).</p> +<p class="list">Sierras (see-er´-ras).</p> +<p class="list">Siskiyous (sis´-ke-yous).</p> +<p class="list">Sonoma (so-no´-ma).</p> +<p class="list">Sutter (sŭt´-ter).</p> +<p class="list">Tahoe (tä´-ho).</p> +<p class="list">Tamalpais (tarm´-el-pies).</p> +<p class="list">Tenaya (te-ni´-ya).</p> +<p class="list">Tulare (too-lar´-ee).</p> +<p class="list">Tuolumne (too-ol´-um-ee).</p> +<p class="list">Ukiah (u-ki´-ah).</p> +<p class="list">Vallejo (väl-yā´-ho).</p> +<p class="list">Viscaino (vees-kä-e´-no).</p> +<p class="list">Wawona (wa-wo´-na).</p> +<p class="list">Yerba Buena (yer´-ba bwā´-na).</p> +<p class="list">Yosemite (yo sem´-e-tee).</p> +<p> </p> +<p class="list">abalone (ab-a-lo´-nee).</p> +<p class="list">adobe (a-do´-bee).</p> +<p class="list">alcalde (al-kal´-day).</p> +<p class="list">arrastra (ar-ras´-tra).</p> +<p class="list">burro (boo´-ro).</p> +<p class="list">cañon (can´-yon).</p> +<p class="list">carne seca (kar´-nā sā´-ka).</p> +<p class="list">cascarone (kas-ka-ro´-na).</p> +<p class="list">chaparral (shap-per-ral´).</p> +<p class="list">coyote (ki-o´-tee).</p> +<p class="list">corral (kor-ral´).</p> +<p class="list">debris (day-bree´).</p> +<p class="list">el toro (el to´-ro).</p> +<p class="list">fandango (fan-dang´-go).</p> +<p class="list">frijoles (free-yo´-lays).</p> +<p class="list">galleon (gal´-le-on).</p> +<p class="list">madroño (ma-dron´-yo).</p> +<p class="list">manzanita (man-zan-ee´-ta).</p> +<p class="list">mantilla (man-tee´-ya).</p> +<p class="list">mahala (ma-ha´-la).</p> +<p class="list">mesa (mā´-sa).</p> +<p class="list">mustangs (mus´-tangs),</p> +<p class="list">presidio (prā-se´-de-o).</p> +<p class="list">pueblos (pū-ā´-blos),</p> +<p class="list">ranche (ransh).</p> +<p class="list">rancheria (ran-sha-ree´-a).</p> +<p class="list">rodeos (ro-da´-os).</p> +<p class="list">senora (sān-yo´-ra).</p> +<p class="list">senoritas (sān-yor-ee´-tas).</p> +<p class="list">sombrero (som-brā´-ro).</p> +<p class="list">sequoias (see-kwoy´-as).</p> +<p class="list">serape (ser-ä´-pay).</p> +<p class="list">teredo (te-rē´-do).</p> +<p class="list">temescal (tem-es-kal´).</p> +<p class="list">tortillas (tor-tee´-yas).</p> +<p class="list">tule (too´-lee).</p> +<p class="list">vaqueros (vä-ka´-ros).</p> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13232 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/13232-h/images/lg1000.jpg b/13232-h/images/lg1000.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..45be547 --- /dev/null +++ b/13232-h/images/lg1000.jpg diff --git a/13232-h/images/lg1005.jpg b/13232-h/images/lg1005.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..482f1c9 --- /dev/null +++ b/13232-h/images/lg1005.jpg diff --git a/13232-h/images/lg1012a.jpg b/13232-h/images/lg1012a.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d9623f2 --- /dev/null +++ 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UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0a49b8e --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #13232 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/13232) diff --git a/old/13232-8.txt b/old/13232-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a904c8a --- /dev/null +++ b/old/13232-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4096 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Stories of California, by Ella M. Sexton + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Stories of California + +Author: Ella M. Sexton + +Release Date: August 20, 2004 [EBook #13232] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STORIES OF CALIFORNIA *** + + + + +Produced by Ronald Holder and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. + + + + +[Illustration: NEVADA FALLS (height 617 feet). Yosemite Valley.] + + + + +STORIES OF CALIFORNIA + + +BY + +ELLA M. SEXTON + + +NEW YORK + +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY +LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., LTD. +1903 + + +_All rights reserved_ + + + + +1902, + +BY THE MACMILLAN COMPANY. + + +Set up, electrotyped, and published September, 1902. Reprinted +October, 1903. + + + +Normond Press J.S. Cushing & Co.--Berwick & Smith Co. Norwood, Mass., +U.S.A. + + + + +FOREWORD + + +To recount in simple, accurate narratives the early conditions and +subsequent development of California is the purpose of this book. In +attempting to picture the romantic events embodied in the wonderful +history of the state, and to make each sketch clear and concise as +well as interesting, the author has avoided many dry details and +dates. + +Several of the stories endeavor to explain the remarkable physical +characteristics of California. The work to this end was rendered +lighter by the hope that the reader might find the book merely an +introduction to that larger knowledge of personal observation and +inquiry. + +But the writer's chief aim has been to interest the children of +California in the beautiful land of their birth, to unfold to them the +life and occurrences of bygone days, and to lead them to note and to +enjoy their fortunate surroundings. + +Among the many authorities consulted for the work, special +acknowledgment is due to the historians, Theodore H. Hittell and H.H. +Bancroft. + + + + +CONTENTS + + +CALIFORNIA'S NAME AND EARLY HISTORY + +THE STORY OF THE MISSIONS AND OF FATHER SERRA + +BEFORE THE GRINGOS CAME + +THE AMERICANS AND THE BEAR-FLAG REPUBLIC + +THE DAYS OF GOLD AND THE ARGONAUTS OF '49 + +MINING STORIES + +HOW POLLY ELLIOTT CAME ACROSS THE PLAINS + +THE BUILDING OF THE OVERLAND RAILROAD + +STORY OF THE WHEAT FIELDS + +ORCHARD, FARM, AND VINEYARD + +THE STORY OF THE NAVEL ORANGE + +THE LEMON + +FLOWERS AND PLANTS + +THE BIG TREES AND LUMBERING + +OUR BIRDS + +OUR WILD ANIMALS + +IN SALT WATER AND FRESH + +ABOUT CALIFORNIA'S INDIANS + +THE STORY OF SAN FRANCISCO + +MEN CALIFORNIA REMEMBERS + +OUR GLORIOUS CLIMATE + +SOME WONDERFUL SIGHTS + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + +NEVADA FALLS (height 617 feet), YOSEMITE VALLEY + +FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA + +MISSION CHURCH, MONTEREY + +OLD SAN DIEGO MISSION. Founded 1769 + +MISSION SAN LUIS REY. Founded 1798 + +MISSION DOLORES. Established 1776 + +SANTA BARBARA MISSION. Founded 1786 + +UPPER SACRAMENTO RIVER + +PLACER GOLD MINING. Washing with Cradle + +AN ORANGE TREE WITH FRUIT AND BLOSSOMS + +PALMS OVER 100 YEARS OLD AT LOS ANGELES + +HOP VINES + +AMONG THE HOP VINES + +WHITE SANTA BARBARA POPPY + +WILD CALIFORNIA POPPY + +IN A MISSION GARDEN + +A CHRISTMAS GARDEN + +"WAWONA" (28 feet in diameter) + +THE GRIZZLY GIANT (33 feet in diameter) + +BIG TREES AT FELTON, SANTA CRUZ CO. + +YOUNG TOWHEE + +BABY YELLOW WARBLERS. From photographs by Elizabeth Grinnell + +CALIFORNIA RED DEER. From a photograph by George V. Robinson + +LEAPING TUNA + +BLACK SEA BASS + +HUMPBACK WHALE (57 feet long) + +TROUT FROM LAKE TAHOE + +INDIAN WOMAN WITH PAPPOOSE + +INDIAN WOMAN WITH BASKETS + +INDIAN BASKETS + +SEAL ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO + +THE NEW CLIFF HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO + +ENTRANCE TO JAPANESE TEA GARDEN, SAN FRANCISCO + +FALLEN LEAF LAKE + +MOUNT SHASTA FROM STRAWBERRY VALLEY + +"EL CAPITAN" (3300 feet in height) + +YOSEMITE FALLS + +NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ + +[Compiler's note 1: Four illustrations were omitted from the published +book, but were listed in the Illustrations pages.] + + + + +STORIES OF CALIFORNIA + + + + +STORIES OF CALIFORNIA + +CALIFORNIA'S NAME AND EARLY HISTORY + + +A Spanish story written four hundred years ago speaks of California as +an island rich in pearls and gold. Only black women lived there, the +story says, and they had golden spears, and collars and harness of +gold for the wild beasts which they had tamed to ride upon. This +island was said to be at a ten days' journey from Mexico, and was +supposed to lie near Asia and the East Indies. + +Among those who believed such fairy tales about this wonderful island +of California was Cortes, a Spanish soldier and traveller. He had +conquered Mexico in 1521 and had made Montezuma, the Mexican emperor, +give him a fortune in gold and precious stones. Then Cortes wished +to find another rich country to capture, and California, he thought, +would be the very place. He wrote home to Spain promising to bring +back gold from the island, and also silks, spices, and diamonds from +Asia. For he was sure that the two countries were near together, and +that both might be found in the Pacific Ocean, or South Sea, as he +called it, by sailing northwest. + +So for years Cortes built ships in New Spain (or Mexico), and sent out +men to hunt for this golden island. They found the Gulf of California, +and at last Cortes himself sailed up and down its waters. He explored +the land on both sides, and saw only poor, naked Indians who had a few +pearls but no gold. Cortes never found the golden island. We should +remember, however, that his ships first sailed on the North Pacific +and explored Lower California, and that he first used the name +California for the peninsula. + +It was left for a Portuguese ship-captain called Cabrillo to find the +port of San Diego in 1542. He was the first white man to land upon +the shores of California, as we know it. Afterwards he sailed north to +Monterey. Many Indians living along the coast came out to his ship +in canoes with fish and game for the white men. Then Cabrillo sailed +north past Monterey Bay, and almost in sight of the Golden Gate. But +the weather was rough and stormy, and without knowing of the fine +harbor so near him, he turned his ship round and sailed south again. +He reached the Santa Barbara Islands, intending to spend the winter +there, but he died soon after his arrival. The people of San Diego +now honor Cabrillo with a festival every year. He was the sea-king who +found their bay and first set foot on California ground. + +About this time Magellan had discovered the Philippine Islands, and +Spain began to send ships from Mexico to those islands to buy silks, +spices, and other rich treasures. The Spanish galleons, or vessels, +loaded with their costly freight, used to come home by crossing +the Pacific to Cape Mendocino, and then sailing down the coast of +California to Mexico. Before long the English, who hated Spain and +were at war with her, sent out brave sea-captains to capture the +Spanish galleons and their cargoes. Sir Francis Drake, one of the +boldest Englishmen, knew this South Sea very well, and on a ship +called the _Golden Hind_ (which meant the Golden Deer), he came to the +New World and captured every Spanish vessel he sighted. He loaded +his ship with their treasures, gold and silver bars, chests of +silver money, velvets and silks, and wished to take his cargo back to +England. He tried to find a northern, or shorter way home, and at last +got so far north that his sailors suffered from cold, and his ship was +nearly lost. Obliged to sail south, he found a sheltered harbor near +Point Reyes, and landed there in 1579. Drake claimed the new country +for the English Queen, Elizabeth, and named it New Albion. A great +many friendly Indians in the neighborhood brought presents of feather +and bead work to the commander and his men. These Indians killed +small game and deer with bows and arrows, and had coats or mantles +of squirrel skins. + +[Illustration: FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA.] + +Drake and his sailors repaired and refitted their vessel during the +month they stayed at Drake's Bay. They made several trips inland also +and saw the pine and redwood forests with many deer feeding on the +hills; but they did not discover San Francisco Bay. On leaving New +Albion, Drake sailed the _Golden Hind_ across the Pacific to the East +Indies and the Indian Ocean, and round the Cape of Good Hope home to +England, with all the treasure he had taken. The queen received him +with great honors and his ship was kept a hundred years in memory of +the brave admiral, who had commanded it on this voyage. + +During the next century several English commanders of vessels sailed +the South Sea while hunting Spanish galleons to capture, and these +ships often touched at Lower California for fresh water. Some of +the captains explored the coast and traded with the Indians, but no +settlements were made. + +Then the Spanish tried to find and settle the country they had heard +so many reports of, thinking to provide stations where their trading +ships might anchor for supplies and protection. Viscaino, on his +second voyage for this purpose, landed at San Diego in 1602. Sailing +on to the island he named Santa Catalina, Viscaino found there a tribe +of fine-looking Indians who had large houses and canoes. They were +good hunters and fishermen and clothed themselves in sealskins. +Viscaino went on to Monterey and finally as far north as Oregon, but +owing to severe storms, and to sickness among his sailors, he was +obliged to return to Mexico. + +For a long time after this failure to settle upon the coast, the +Spanish came to Lower California for the pearl-fisheries. Along the +Gulf of California were many oyster-beds where the Indians secured +the shells by diving for them. Large and valuable pearls were found +in many of the oysters, and the Spanish collected them in great +quantities from the Indians who did not know their real value. + +In this peninsula of Lower California fifteen Missions, or +settlements, each having a church, were founded by Padres of the +Jesuits. But later the Jesuits were ordered out of the country, and +their Missions turned over to the Franciscan order of Mexico. + +With the coming of the Franciscans a new period of California's +history began. Spain wished to settle Alta California, or that region +north of the peninsula, and Father Serra, the head and leader of these +Franciscans, was chosen to begin this work. + +How he did this, and how he and his followers founded the California +Missions you will read in the story of that time. + + + + +THE STORY OF THE MISSIONS AND OF FATHER SERRA + + +The old Missions of California are landmarks that remind us of Father +Serra and his band of faithful workers. There were twenty-one of their +beautiful churches, and though some are ruined and neglected, others +like the Mission Dolores of San Francisco and the Santa Barbara and +Monterey buildings are still in excellent condition. From San Diego to +San Francisco these Missions were located, about thirty miles apart, +and so well were the sites chosen that the finest cities of the state +have grown round the old churches. + +Father Junipero Serra was the president and leader of the Franciscan +missionaries and the founder of the Missions. He had been brought up +in Spain, and had dreamed from his boyhood of going to the New +World, as the Spanish called America, to tell the savages how to be +Christians. He began his work as a missionary in Mexico and there +labored faithfully among the Indians for nearly twenty years. But as +his greatest wish was to preach to those in unknown places he was glad +to be chosen to explore Alta or Upper California. + +Marching by land from Loreto, a Mission of Lower California, Father +Serra, with Governor Portola and his soldiers, reached San Diego in +1769. Here he planted the first Mission on California ground. The +church was a rude arbor of boughs, and the bells were hung in an oak +tree. Father Serra rang the bells himself, and called loudly to the +wondering Indians to come to the Holy Church and hear about Christ. +But the natives were suspicious and not ready to listen to the good +man's teachings, and several times they attacked the newcomers. +Finally, after six years, they burnt the church and killed one of the +missionaries. But later on there was peace, and the priests, or Padres +as they were called, taught the Indians to raise corn and wheat, and +to plant olive orchards and fig trees, and grapes for wine. They built +a new church and round it the huts, or cabins, of the Indians, the +storehouses, and the Padre's dwelling. In the early morning the bells +called every member of the Mission family to a church service. After a +breakfast of corn and beans they spent the morning in outdoor work or +in building. At noon either mutton or beef was served with corn and +beans, and at two o'clock work began again, to last till evening +service. A supper of corn-meal mush was the Indians' favorite +meal. They had many holidays, when their amusements were dancing, +bull-fighting, or cock-fighting. + +San Diego, called the Mother Mission, because it is the oldest church, +is now also most in ruins. But its friends hope to put new foundations +under the old walls, and to recap firm ones with cement, and preserve +this monument of early California history. + +After Father Serra had started the San Diego settlement he set sail +for Monterey. Landing at Monterey Bay, he built an altar under a large +oak tree, hung the Mission bells upon the boughs, and held the usual +services. The Spanish soldiers fired off their guns in honor of the +day and put up a great cross. The Indians had never heard the sound of +guns and were so frightened that they ran away to the mountains. The +second Mission was built on the Carmel River, a little distance from +the site of the first altar. This was called San Carlos of Monterey, +and the settlement was the capital of Alta California for many years. +It was also the Mission that Father Serra loved the best, and after +every trip to other and newer settlements he returned to San Carlos as +his home. This Monterey Mission is well preserved, and books, carved +church furniture, and embroidered robes used in the old services are +still shown. + +At both San Diego and Monterey a presidio, or fort, was built for the +soldiers. These forts had one or two cannon brought from Spain, and +had around them high walls, or stockades, to protect, if it should be +necessary, the Mission people from the Indians. The cannon were fired +on holidays, or to frighten troublesome Indians. + +All the Mission buildings were of brown clay made into large bricks +about a foot and a half long and broad, and three or four inches +thick. These bricks, dried in the sun, were called adobes, and were +plastered together and made smooth by a mortar of the same clay. +Then the walls were coated outside and inside with a lime stucco and +whitewashed. The roof timbers were covered with hollow red tiles, each +like the half of a sewer pipe, and these were laid to overlap each +other so that they kept the rain out. The floors were of earth beaten +hard, and the windows had bars or latticework, but no glass. The large +church was snowy white within and without and had pictures brought +from Spain and much carved furniture, such as chairs, benches, and +the pulpit made by the Indians. One or two round-topped towers and +five or six belfries, each holding a large bell, were on the church roof, +and a great iron cross at the very top. + +[Illustration: MISSION CHURCH, MONTEREY.] + +[Illustration: OLD SAN DIEGO MISSION. Founded 1769.] + +Night and morning the Mission bells rang to call the Indians to mass +or service, and chimes or tunes were rung on holidays or for weddings. +These Mission bells were brought from Spain, and it was thought a +blessing rested on the ship which carried them, and that shipwreck +could not come to such a vessel. We read of one captain joyfully +receiving the Mission bells to take to San Diego. When nearing the +coast his vessel struck a rock, yet passed on in safety because, as +he said, no harm could happen with the bells on board. On his journeys +every missionary carried a bell with him for the new church he was to +build. Father Serra's first act on reaching a stopping-place was to +hang the bell in a tree and ring it to gather the Indians and people +for service. + +San Antonio, a very successful Mission, was the third one established, +and it was in a beautiful little valley of the Santa Lucia Mountains. +Every kind of fruit grew in its orchards, and the Indians there were +very happy and contented, and in large workshops made cloth, saddles, +and other things. San Gabriel, not far from Los Angeles and sometimes +called the finest church of all, was the next to be built. This was +the richest of the Missions and had great stores of wool, wheat, and +fruit, which the hard-working Indians earned and gave to the church. +The Indians, indeed, were almost slaves, and worked all their +lives for the Padres without rest or pay. At San Gabriel the first +California flour-mill worked by a stream of water turning the wheel, +was put up. Some of the old palms and olive trees are still growing +there. + +San Juan Capistrano, founded in 1776, was one of the best-known +Missions, for it had a seaport of its own at San Juan. Vessels came to +its port for the hides and tallow of thousands of cattle herded round +the Mission. The first fine church of this Mission was destroyed by +an earthquake, and many people were killed by its falling roof. It was +rebuilt, however, and still shows its fine front, and long corridors +or porches round a hollow square where a garden and fountain used to +be. + +Old records tell us that Father Serra felt that there should be a +church named in honor of Francis, who was the founder and patron saint +of the Franciscan brotherhood of monks to which these missionaries +belonged. When Father Serra spoke of this to Galvez, that priest +replied, "If our good Saint Francis wants a Mission, let him show us +that fine harbor up above Monterey and we will build him one there." +Several explorers had failed to find this port about which Indians had +spoken to the Spanish. At last Ortega discovered it, and Father Palou, +in 1776, consecrated the Mission of San Francisco. Near the spot was +a small lake called the "Laguna de los Dolores," and from this the +church was at last known as the Mission Dolores. But the great city +bears the Spanish name of Saint Francis, or San Francisco. A fort +was erected where the present Presidio stands, and later a battery +of cannon was placed at Black Point. It is told that the Indians were +very quarrelsome here and fought so among themselves that the Padres +could get no church built for a year. In that part of San Francisco +called the Mission, the old building with its odd roof and three of +the ancient bells is a very interesting place to visit. There are +pictures, and other relics of the past to see, and in the graveyard +many of San Francisco's early settlers were buried. This was the sixth +Mission of Alta California. + +The Santa Barbara Mission, where Franciscan fathers still live, has +a fine church with double towers and a long row of two-story adobe +buildings enclosing a hollow square where a beautiful garden is kept. +One of the brotherhood, wearing a long brown robe just as Father Serra +did, takes visitors into the church, and also shows them the garden +and a large carved stone fountain. This church is built of sandstone +with two large towers and a chime of six bells, and was finished in +1820. + +The Santa Ynez Mission was much damaged by the heavy earthquake that +in 1812 ruined other Missions. Here the Indians raised large crops +of wheat and herded many cattle. Over a thousand Indians, it is said, +attacked this church in 1822, but the priest in charge frightened them +away by firing guns. This warlike conduct so displeased the Padres, +who wished the natives ruled by kindness, that the poor priest was +sent away from the Mission. + +One of the early Missions was San Luis Obispo, where services are +still held. It was specially noted for a fine blue cloth woven by +the Indians from the wool of the Mission flocks of sheep. The Indians +there also wove blankets, and cloth from cotton raised upon their own +lands. + +San Juan Bautista, or St. John the Baptist, north of Monterey, had a +splendid chime of nine bells said to have been brought from Peru and +to have very rich, mellow tones. San Miguel had a bell hung up on a +platform in front of the church, and now at Santa Ysabel, sixty miles +from San Diego, where the Mission itself is only a heap of adobe +ruins, two bells hang on a rude framework of logs. The Indian +bell-ringer rings them by a rope fastened to each clapper. The bells +were cast in Spain and much silver jewellery and household plate were +melted with the bell-metal. Near them the Diegueño Indians worship in +a rude arbor of green boughs with their priest, Father Antonio, who +has worked for thirty years among the tribe. They live on a rancheria +near by and are making adobe bricks, hoping soon to build a church +like the old Mission long since crumbled away. + +The last of the Missions was built in 1823 at Sonoma, and proved very +active in church work, some fifteen hundred Indians having been there +baptized. + +Father Junipero Serra died at more than seventy years of age, at San +Carlos. During all his life in America he endured great hardships +and suffering to bring the gospel to the heathen as he had dreamed of +doing in his boyish days. A monument to his memory has been erected +at Monterey by Mrs. Stanford, but the Missions he founded are his best +and most lasting remembrances. + + + + +BEFORE THE GRINGOS CAME + + +This is the story Señora Sanchez told us children as we sat on the +sunny, rose-covered porch of her old adobe house at Monterey one +summer afternoon. And as she talked of those early times she worked +at her fine linen "drawn-work" with bright, dark eyes that needed no +glasses for all her eighty years and snow-white hair. + +"When I was a girl, California was a Mexican republic," said the +Señora, "and Los Gringos, as we called the Americans, came in ships +from Boston. They brought us our shoes and dresses, our blankets and +groceries; all kinds of goods, indeed, to trade for hides and tallow, +which was all our people had to sell in those days. For no one raised +anything but cattle then, and all summer long the cows cropped the +rich clover and wild oats till they were fat and ready to kill. In +the fall the Indians and vaqueros, or cowboys as you children call +them, drove great herds of cattle to the Missions near the ocean where +the Gringos came with their ship-loads of fine things and waited for +trading-days. + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN LUIS REY. Founded 1798.] + +[Illustration: MISSION DOLORES. Established 1776.] + +"For weeks every one worked hard, killing the cattle, stripping off +their skins and hanging the green or fresh hides over poles to dry in +the sun. When dried hard and stiff as a board the skins were folded +hair-side in, and were then worth about two dollars apiece. The +beef-suet, or fat, from these cattle was put into large iron kettles +and melted. While still hot it was dipped out with wooden dippers +into rawhide bags, each made from an animal's skin. When cold and hard +these bags of tallow were sewed up with leather strings, and thus they +were taken to Boston. + +"So much beef was on hand at such times that not even the hungry +Indians could eat it all while it was fresh. The nicest pieces were +cut into long strips, dipped into a boiling salt brine full of hot +red peppers and hung up to dry where the sunshine soon turned the meat +into carne seca, or dried beef. We put it away in sacks, and very good +it was all the year for stews, and to eat with the frijoles, or red +beans, and tortillas, which were corn-cakes. + +"All we bought from the Gringos was paid for with hides and tallow, +so it was well, you see, children, that my father owned ten thousand +cattle; for counting relatives and Indian servants, we always had more +than thirty people on our ranch to feed and clothe. We raised grain +and corn and beans enough for the family, but had to buy sugar, +coffee, and such things. + +"Did we have many horses, you say? Yes, droves of them, and we almost +lived on horseback, for no one walked if he could help it, and there +were almost no carriages or roads. Neither were there any barns or +stables, for the mustangs, or tough little ponies, fed on the wild +grass and took care of themselves. Every morning a horse was caught, +saddled and bridled, and tied by the door ready to use. All the ladies +rode, too, and I often used to ride twenty miles to a dance with Juan, +my young husband, and back again in a day or so. + +"Sometimes we went to the rodeo, where once a year the great herds of +cattle were driven into corrals, and each ranchero or farmer picked +out his own stock. Then those young calves or yearlings not already +marked were branded with their owner's stamp by a red-hot iron that +burnt the mark into the skin. After that the bellowing, frightened +animals were turned out to roam the grassy plains for another year. We +had plenty of feasting and merry-making at these rodeos, and a whole +ox was roasted every day for the hungry crowds, so no one went fasting +to bed. + +"Those were gay times, my children," and Señora Sanchez sighed and +sewed quietly for a while till Harry asked her if they kept Christmas +before the Gringos came. + +"Yes, indeed," she said, laughing, "we kept Christmas for a week, +and all our friends and relatives were welcome, so that our big +ranch-house was full of company. Indeed, some of the visitors slept in +hammocks or rolled up in blankets on the verandas. Our house was built +round the four sides of a square garden, with wide porches, where we +sat on pleasant days. There was a fountain in this garden, and orange +trees, which at Christmas-time hung full of golden fruit and sweet +white flowers. On 'the holy night,' as we called Christmas Eve, we +hung lanterns in the porches, and everybody crowded there or in the +garden for their gifts. + +"No, we had no Santa Claus nor Christmas tree, but my father gave +presents to all, even to the Indian servants and their children. A fan +or a string of pearls, perhaps, for my sisters, the young señoritas; a +fine saddle or a velvet jacket for my brother; and red blankets or gay +handkerchiefs for the Indians, with sacks of beans or sweet potatoes +to eat with their Christmas feast of roast ox or a fat sheep. +Afterwards we danced till morning came, or sang to the sweet tinkle +of the guitars. Well do I remember, children, when the good Padres, +or priests, at the Mission forbade us to waltz, that new dance the +Gringos had taught us to like. I recall, also, that the governor only +laughed and said that the young folks could waltz if they wished. +So at my wedding, soon after, when we danced from Tuesday noon till +Thursday morning, you may be sure we had many a waltz. + +"Pretty dresses, Edith? Yes, gay, bright silk or satin ones, with many +ruffles on the skirts and wide collars and sleeves of lace, or yellow +satin slippers and always a high comb of silver or tortoise-shell and +a spangled fan. And we had long gold and coral earrings and strings of +pearls from the Gulf, and, see!" as she pulled aside her neck-scarf, +"here is the necklace of gold beads that was my wedding gift. We +had no hats or bonnets, but wore black lace shawls, or mantillas, to +church, or twisted long silk scarfs over our heads to go riding. + +"You will think the gentlemen were fine dandies in those Mexican days, +when I tell you that they often wore crimson velvet knee trousers +trimmed with gold lace, embroidered white shirts, bright green cloth +or velvet jackets with rows and rows of silver buttons, and red sashes +with long, streaming ends. Their wide-brimmed sombrero hats were +trimmed with silver or gold braid and tassels. They dressed up their +horses with beautiful saddles and bridles of carved leather worked +all over with gold or silver thread and gay with silver rosettes or +buttons. Each gentleman wore a large Spanish cloak of rich velvet or +embroidered cloth, and if it rained, he threw over his fine clothes +a serape, or square woollen blanket with a slit cut in the middle for +the head. + +"Los Gringos used to laugh at the Mexican and his cloak, and not long +after they came the 'Greasers,' as the Americans called the young men +born here in California, began to wear the ugly clothes the Gringos +brought out from Boston. And so the times changed, children, and our +people learned to do everything as the Americans did it and to work +hard and save money instead of dancing and idling away the time. + +"And the bull-fights, Harry? Oh, yes, there was a bull-fight every +Sunday afternoon, and everybody went, as you do to the football games. +The ladies clapped their hands if the sport was good, or if the bull +was killed by the brave swordsman. And if the men got hurt or the +horses,--well, we only thought that was part of the game, you see. El +toro, as we called the bull, always tried to save himself; and if he +was savage and cruel, that was his nature, to try to kill his enemies. +The gay dresses and the music was what I cared for, and then all my +friends were there, also. + +[Illustration: SANTA BARBARA MISSION. Founded 1786.] + +"But you must be tired of my old stories; is it not so, my children? +No, you want to hear about the dances, you say? Well, every party was +a dance; a fandango or ball, if it was given in a hall where everybody +could come, but at houses where just the people came who were invited +we called it only a dance. Every old grandfather or little girl, even, +danced all night long, and the rooms were hung with flags and wreaths. +All the Spanish dances were pretty, and the ladies with their gay +dresses and mantillas, and the gentlemen in velvet suits trimmed +with gold, made a fine picture. At the cascarone, or egg-shell +dance, baskets of egg-shells filled with cologne or finely cut tinsel +or colored papers were brought into the room, and the game was to +crush these shells over the dancers' heads. If your hair got wet with +cologne or full of gilt paper, everybody laughed, and you laughed too, +for that was the game, you know. Ah, there was plenty of merry-making +and feasting in those days, children," and Señora Sanchez sighed again +and went on with her "drawn-work," while the bell in the old Mission +church near by rang five o'clock, and we children ran home talking of +those old times before the Gringos came to California. + + + + +THE AMERICANS AND THE BEAR-FLAG REPUBLIC + + +While Spain owned Mexico and the two Californias, the Missions were at +their best and grew rich in stores of grain and in cattle and horses. +Almost all the people were Spanish or Indians, and they lived at the +Missions or in ranches near by. But when Mexico in 1822 refused to be +ruled by Spain, Alta or Upper California became a Mexican territory, +and, later on, a republic with governors sent from Mexico. The Mission +Padres did not like the change, and thought that Spain should still +own the New World. Before long it was ordered that the Missions should +be turned into pueblos, or towns, and that the Padres were no longer +to make slaves of the Indians. The missionaries were to stay as +priests, and to teach the Indians in schools, but the Mission lands +were to be divided so that each Indian family might have a small farm +to cultivate. From that time the Missions began to decay and were +finally given up to ruin. + +Then Americans began to come in, the first party of hunters and +trappers travelling from Salt Lake City to the San Gabriel Mission. +All kept talking of the rich country where farming was so easy, and +they wished to have land. But the Mexicans and the native Californians +did not believe in allowing the Americans, as they called all the +people from the Eastern states, to take up their farming lands and +hunt and trap the wild animals. So there was much quarrelling. But the +Americans still poured in, got land grants, and built houses. + +In 1836, though Alta California declared itself a free state, and no +longer looked to Mexico for support, Mexican rule still continued. The +United States had wanted California for a long time, and had tried to +buy it from Mexico. The fine bay and harbor of San Francisco, known +to be the best along the coast, was especially needed by the United +States as a place to shelter or repair ships on their way to the +Oregon settlements. England also wanted this bay, but the Californians +tried to keep every one out of their country. + +Among the Americans who came overland and across the Rocky Mountains +about this time was John C. Fremont, a surveyor and engineer, who was +called the "Pathfinder." On his third trip to the Pacific Coast in '46 +he wished to spend the winter near Monterey, with his sixty hunters +and mountaineers. Castro, the Mexican general, ordered him to leave +the country at once, but Fremont answered by raising the American flag +over his camp. As Castro had more men, Fremont did not think it wise +to fight, but marched away, intending to go north to Oregon. He turned +back in the Klamath country on account of snow and Indians, as he +said, and camped where the Feather River joins the Sacramento. It +is almost certain that Fremont wished to provoke Castro and the +Californians into war, and so to capture the country for the United +States. + +A party of Fremont's men rode down to Sonoma, where there was a +Mission, and also a presidio with a few cannon in charge of General +Vallejo. These men captured the place and sent Vallejo and three +other prisoners back to Fremont's camp. Then the independent Americans +concluded to have a new republic of their own, and a flag also. So +they made the famous "Bear-flag" of white cloth, with a strip of red +flannel sewed on the lower edge, and on the white they painted in +red a large star and a grizzly bear, and also the words "California +Republic." They then raised the flag over the Bear-flag Republic. Many +Americans joined their party, but when the American flag went up at +Monterey, the stars and stripes replaced the bear-flag. + +At this time the United States and Mexico were at war on account +of Texas, and Commodore Sloat was in charge of the warships on the +Pacific Coast. The commodore had been told to take Alta California, +if possible; so, sailing to Monterey, he raised the stars and stripes +there in July, 1846, and ended Mexican power forever. The American +flag flew at the San Francisco Presidio two days later, and also at +Sonoma, Sutter's Fort, or wherever there were Americans. The flag was +greeted with cheers and delight. Then Commodore Sloat turned the naval +force over to Stockton and returned home, leaving all quiet north of +Santa Barbara. + +Commodore Stockton sent Fremont and his men to San Diego and, taking +four hundred soldiers, went himself to Los Angeles, where the native +Californians and Mexicans were determined to fight against the rule of +the United States. General Castro and his men and Governor Pico, +the last of the Mexican governors, were driven out of the country. +Stockton then declared that Upper and Lower California were to be +known as the "Territory of California." + +In less than a month, however, the Californians in the south gathered +their forces again and took Los Angeles. General Kearny was sent out +with what was called the "army of the west," to assist Fremont and +Stockton in settling the trouble. Peace was declared after several +battles, and Kearny acted as governor of the new territory, displacing +Fremont. At last, by the treaty which closed the Mexican war in 1848 +Alta California became the property of the United States, and Lower +California was left to Mexico. + +From that time there was peace and quiet, and before long the +discovery of gold brought the new territory into great importance. The +rush to the gold mines brought thousands of men, and as no government +had been provided for the territory, Governor Riley in '49 called a +convention to form a plan of government. + +This Constitutional Convention of delegates from each of California's +towns met in Monterey. The constitution there drawn up lasted for +thirty years, and under it our great state was built up. It declared +that no slavery should ever be allowed here, and settled the present +eastern boundary line. + +The first Thanksgiving Day for the territory was set by Governor +Riley, in '49. The first governor elected by California voters was +Burnett, and in the first legislature Fremont and Gwin were chosen +as senators. Congress at last admitted California into the Union by +passing the California bill. On September 9, 1850, President Fillmore +signed the bill. + +Every year on the 9th of September, or "Admission Day," we therefore +keep our state's birthday. At San Jose, in '99, a Jubilee Day was +held in remembrance of the beginning of state government fifty years +before. + +[Illustration: UPPER SACRAMENTO RIVER.] + +[Illustration: PLACER GOLD MINING. (Washing with Cradle.)] + + + + +THE DAYS OF GOLD AND THE ARGONAUTS OF 1849 + + +California has well earned her name of "Golden State," for from her +rich mines gold to the value of thirteen hundred millions has been +taken. Yet every year she adds seventeen millions more to the world's +stock of gold. No country has produced more of this precious yellow +metal that men work and fight and die for. The "gold belt" of the +state still holds great wealth for miners to find in years to come. + +Long, long ago people knew that gold was here, for in 1510 a Spanish +novel speaks of "that island of California where a great abundance +of gold and precious stones is found." In 1841 the Indians near San +Fernando Mission washed out gold from the river-sands, and other mines +were found not far from Los Angeles. + +But James W. Marshall was the man who started the great excitement +of '48 and '49 by finding small pieces of gold at a place now called +Coloma, on the American River. Marshall, who was born in New Jersey, +came to this state in 1847, and being a builder wished to put up +houses, sawmills, and flour-mills. Finding that lumber was very +dear, he decided to build a sawmill to exit up the great trees on the +river-bank. He had no money, but John A. Sutter, knowing a mill was +needed there, gave Marshall enough to start with. + +So the mill was built, and when it was ready to run Marshall found +that the mill-race, or ditch for carrying the water to his mill-wheel, +was not deep enough. He turned a strong current of water into it, +and this ran all night. Then it was shut off, and next day the ditch +showed where the stream had washed it deeper and had left a heap +of sand and gravel at the end of it. Here Marshall saw some shining +little stones, and picking them up he laid one on a rock and hammered +it with another till he saw how quickly it changed its shape. He was +sure that these bright, heavy, easily hammered pebbles were gold, but +the men working about the mill would not believe it. So he went to +Sutter, who lived near at a place called Sutter's Fort, because his +stores, house, and other buildings were built around a hollow square +with high walls outside to keep off the Indians. Sutter weighed the +little yellow lumps and said they certainly were gold. + +The flood-gates between the mill-race and the river were opened again, +and water ran through the ditch, washing more gold in sight. Sutter +picked up enough of this to make a ring and had these words marked on +it:-- + +"The first gold found in California, January, 1848." + +Both Sutter and Marshall tried to keep what they had found a secret, +but that was impossible, and soon people were flocking to the +gold-fields. Then began a wild excitement known as the "gold-fever," +and men left their stores and houses, gave up business, and left crops +ungathered in a wild chase after nuggets of gold. + +By December of 1848, thousands of miners were washing for gold +all along the foot-hills from the Tuolumne River to the Feather, +a distance of 150 miles. A hundred thousand men came to California +during 1849, these Argonauts, or gold-hunters, taking ship or steamer +for the long trip from New York by the Isthmus of Panama. Some went +round Cape Horn, or else made a weary journey overland across the +plains. "To the land of gold" was their motto, and these pioneers +endured every hardship to reach this "Golden State." + +Then the miners, with pick, shovel, and pan for washing out gold from +the gravel it was found in, started out "prospecting" for "pay-dirt." +The gold-diggings were usually along the rivers, and this surface, or +"placer," mining was done by shovelling the "pay-dirt" into a pan or a +wooden box called a cradle, and rocking or shaking this box from side +to side while pouring water over the earth. The heavy gold, either +in fine scales or dust, or in lumps called nuggets, dropped to the +bottom, while the loose earth ran out in a muddy stream. The rich sand +left in pan or cradle was carefully washed again and again till only +precious, shining gold remained. + +So rich were some of the sand bars along the American and Feather +rivers that the first miners made a thousand dollars a day even by +this careless way of washing gold where much of it was lost. Then +again for days or weeks the miner found nothing at all. He would +wander up and down the cañons and gulches, prospecting for another +claim, and dreaming day and night of finding a stream with golden +sands, or of picking up rich nuggets. If he found good "diggings" he +would build a rough shanty under the pines, and dig and wash till the +gold-bearing sand or gravel gave out again. Sometimes he had a partner +and a donkey, or burro, to carry tools and pack supplies. More often +the Argonaut cooked his own bacon and slapjacks and simmered his beans +over a lonely camp-fire, and slept wrapped in a blanket under the +trees. If he had much gold, he would go to the nearest town, buy food +enough for another prospecting tramp, and often spend all the rest of +his money in foolish waste. + +Sometimes a company of miners would build a dam across a river or +stream, and turn it from its course, so they could dig out and wash +the rich gravel in the river-bed. A flume, or ditch, would often carry +all the water to a lower part of the river, leaving the bed of the +upper stream dry for miles. In this kind of mining the "pay-dirt" was +shovelled into long wooden boxes called sluices, and a constant stream +of water kept the gravel and earth moving on out to a dumping-place. +The gold dropped down or settled into riffles, or spaces between bars +placed across the bottom of the sluices, and once a week the water was +turned off and a "clean-up" made of the gold. + +It was not long before the rivers, creeks, and gulches had all been +worked over and most of the gold taken out. The miners knew that this +loose gold had been washed out of the hills by the rains and storms of +countless years. So some one thought of using a heavy stream of water +to break down the foot-hills themselves and to carry the gold-bearing +gravel to sluice boxes. This is called hydraulic mining and is the +cheapest way of handling earth, as water does all the work and +very little shovelling is needed. But since a strong water-power is +necessary, a large reservoir and miles of ditches or wooden flumes +must be built, so the first expense is large. The water usually comes +from higher up in the mountains, and is forced under great pressure +through iron pipes, the nozzle or "giant" being directed at the +hillside, which has already been shattered by heavy blasts of powder. +The water tears thousands of tons of earth and gravel apart, and the +muddy stream flows through sluices, where the gold is left. In this +kind of mining a great quantity of débris, or "tailings," must be +disposed of. + +For years this débris was washed into the rivers or on farming lands, +filling up and ruining both, and leading to endless quarrels between +farmers and miners. But at last the courts stopped hydraulic mining +except in northern counties, where débris went into the Klamath River, +upon which no boats could run and near which was little farming. But +all the mines in the Sacramento and San Joaquin river-basins were idle +till, in 1893, Congress appointed a Débris Commission. These mining +engineers issue licenses to work the mines when satisfied that the +débris will be kept out of the rivers. There are in the state many +hundred thousand acres of gold-bearing gravel lands yet untouched, +that could be worked by hydraulic mining. + +In drift-mining the rich gravel is covered by hard lava rock thrown +up by some old volcanic outburst. Tunnels are driven by blasting with +dynamite, or by drilling under the rock to reach the gravel which +usually lies in the buried channel of an old river. The long drifts, +or tunnels, needed are very expensive and only mine owners with +capital can work these claims. + +Richest of all are the quartz mines, where beautiful white rock, rich +with sparkling gold, is found in veins, or "lodes," cropping out of +hillsides or dipping down under the earth. The great "Mother-lode" +of our state runs like an underground wall across Amador, Calaveras, +Tuolumne, and Mariposa counties and has been traced for eighty miles. + +Some poor miner usually finds a ledge of quartz-rock and digs down the +way the ledge goes. He puts up a windlass, worked by hand, over the +well-like hole he has dug out, and hoists the ore out in buckets. But +he soon finds, as the hole or shaft goes deeper, that he must timber +the sides to keep them from caving in, that he must have an engine to +raise the ore and a mill to crush the hard rock. So he sells out to a +company of men, who put in costly machinery, deepen the shaft, and by +heavy expenditure get large returns. + +The quartz ledges dip and turn, so tunnels and cross-cuts are run to +follow the golden vein, and all these are timbered with heavy wooden +supports to keep the earth and rock from falling in on the men. The +miners work in day and night gangs, using dynamite to break up the +hard rock, and sending ore up in great iron buckets, or in cars if the +tunnel ends in daylight, on the hillside. Sometimes the miners +strike water, and that must be pumped out to keep the mine from being +flooded. + +The ore is crushed by heavy stamps, or hammers, and then mixed with +water and quicksilver. This curious metal, quicksilver, or mercury, +is fond of gold and hunts out every little bit, the two metals mixing +together and making what is called an amalgam. This is heated in an +iron vessel, and the quicksilver goes off in steam or vapor, leaving +the gold free. The quicksilver, being valuable, is saved and used +again, while the gold, now called bullion, is sent to the mint to be +coined into bright twenties, or tens, or five-dollar pieces. + +Some of the gold in the crushed ore will not mix with the quicksilver, +and this is treated to a bath of cyanide, a peculiar acid that melts +the gold as water does a lump of sugar. So all of value is saved, and +the worthless "tailings" go to the dump. Even the black sands on the +ocean beach have gold in them. In the desert also there is gold, which +is "dry-washed" by putting the sand into a machine and with a strong +blast of air blowing away all but the heavy scales of gold. + +Though the Argonauts of '49 found much wealth in yellow gold, our +"Golden State," on hillsides, in river-beds, or deep down in hidden +quartz ledges, still holds great fortunes waiting to be found. + + + + +MINING STORIES + + +A large book might be filled with the stories told by the men +who found gold in the early days. Their "lucky strikes" in the +"dry-diggings" sound like fairy tales. Imagine turning over a big rock +and then picking up pieces of gold enough to half fill a man's hat +from the little nest that rock had been lying in for years and years! + +And think of finding forty-three thousand dollars in a yellow lump +over a foot long, six inches wide and four inches thick! This was +the biggest nugget on record and actually weighed one hundred and +ninety-five pounds. The next one, too, you might have been glad to +pick up, as it held a hundred and thirty-three pounds of solid gold. +Little seventy-five and fifty-pound treasures were common, and a +soldier stopping to drink at a roadside stream found a nugget weighing +over twenty pounds lying close to his hand. + +It paid to get up early those days, also for a man in Sonora, while +taking his morning walk, struck his foot against a large stone, and +forgot the pain when he saw the stone was nearly all gold. Another +man, with good eyes, got a fifty-pound nugget on a trail many people +used all the time. One day, after a heavy rain, a man who was leading +a mule and cart through a street in Sonora, noticed that the wheel +struck a big stone; he stooped to lift it out of the way, and found +the stone to be a lump of gold weighing thirty-five pounds. In less +than an hour all that part of the town and the street was staked off +into mining-claims, but no more was found. One of the largest of these +nuggets was found by three or four men, who took it to San Francisco +and the Eastern states, and exhibited it for money. They guarded the +precious thing day and night, but at last quarrelled so that it had to +be broken up and divided between them. + +The first piece Marshall found was said to be worth about fifty cents, +and the second over five dollars. Almost all, though, that was found +was like beans or small seeds or in fine dust. No one tried to weigh +or measure such gold more correctly than to call a pinch between the +finger and thumb a dollar's worth, while a teaspoonful was an ounce, +or sixteen dollars' worth. A wineglassful meant a hundred dollars, +and a tumblerful a thousand. Miners carried their "dust" in a buckskin +bag, and this was put on the counter, and the storekeeper took out +what he thought enough to pay for the things the miner bought. A large +thumb to take a large pinch of the gold-dust meant a good many extra +dollars to the storekeeper in '48 and '49. Yet nearly every one was +honest, and gold might be left in an open tent untouched, for there +was plenty more to be had for the picking up. Those who would rather +steal than work were driven out of camp. + +Some of the "sand bars," or banks of gravel and earth, washed down by +the Yuba River were so rich that the men could pick out a tin cupful +of gold day after day for weeks. One place was called Tin-cup Bar for +this reason. Spanish Bar, on the American River, yielded a million +dollars' worth of dust, and at Ford's Bar, a miner, named Ford, took +out seven hundred dollars a day for three weeks. At Rich Bar, on the +Feather River, a panful of earth gave fifteen hundred dollars. + +Yet the miners were seldom satisfied, but were always prospecting for +richer claims. A man would shoulder his roll of blankets, his pick and +shovel, with a few cooking things, and start off hoping to find some +rich nugget, leaving a fairly good claim untouched. + +The most extravagant prices were charged the miner for everything he +had to buy. Ten dollars apiece for pick and shovel, fifty more for a +pair of long boots, with bacon and potatoes at a dollar and a half a +pound, soon took all his gold-dust to pay for. A dozen fresh eggs cost +ten dollars, and a box of sardines half an ounce of gold-dust, which +was eight dollars. There was no butter to buy, for any milk was +quickly sold at a dollar a pint. The hotels charged three dollars a +meal, or a dollar for a dish of pork and beans, and a dollar for two +potatoes. + +Lumber cost a dollar and a half a foot, but carpenters would not build +houses when they could make fifty dollars a day by mining. As there +was no lumber for the cabin floors, the ground was beaten hard and +really made a good floor. In Placerville the houses were built along +the bed of a ravine, and in sweeping these earthen floors some one saw +gold-dust glittering, and found that rich diggings were under foot. +Thereupon many of the miners dug up their cabin floors, and one man +took about twenty thousand dollars in nuggets and gold-dust from the +small space his cabin covered. + +Very few women and children came to the mines in early days, and the +first white woman to arrive in a camp had all sorts of attentions. +Sometimes the town was named for the woman first in the place as +Sarahsville and Marietta. If a lady visited a mining-camp, the men far +and near would drop work and come in just to look at the visitor. One +lady, who sang for the miners on her arrival in their town, was given +about five hundred dollars' worth of gold-dust. + +A child was a great curiosity, and any pretty little girl was sure to +have a collection of nuggets or a quantity of gold-dust presented to +her. The theatre and circus companies who visited mining-camps soon +found out that a little child who could sing or dance was a great +attraction. The miners used to throw a shower of money or nuggets at +the feet of such little favorites as we throw flowers now. + +As there were no women living here for some time, the men having left +their families at home in the Eastern states, miners had to wash +and cook and make bread for themselves. Men who had been lawyers +or ministers at home, when there was no one else to do such things, +washed their dishes or their red flannel shirts. On Sunday no one +worked at mining, and the men baked bread and cleaned house, and +Sunday afternoons they dried, patched, and mended their clothes. If a +minister was in town, he held services on a hillside, or in the dining +room of some shanty called a hotel, and all the camp came to hear him +speak, or sang the hymns with him. + +So the miners lived and worked and wandered along rivers and rough +mountain trails on the west side of the Sierras, gathering up gold +washed down by mountain streams. These Argonauts, or gold-seekers of +fifty years ago, are almost all dead now, but the treasures they found +made California known throughout the world. Their golden harvest has +made the state richer than they found it, for they used the wealth to +build cities, to cultivate farming-lands, and to plant orchards and +vineyards where the mining-camps used to be. + + + + +HOW POLLY ELLIOTT CAME ACROSS THE PLAINS + + +This is the story of a little girl who in 1849 rode all the way +from Ohio to California in an emigrant wagon. Polly Elliott has +grandchildren of her own now, but she remembers very well the spring +morning when her father came home and said to her mother, "Lizzie, +can you get ready to start for the land of gold next week?" She hears +again her mother saying, "Oh, John, with all these little children?" +She says her father answered by swinging her, the eleven-year-old +Polly, up to his shoulder and calling out, "Here's papa's little +woman; she'll help you take care of them," as he carried her round the +room, laughing. + +This was "back East," as Polly Elliott, now Mrs. Davis, says,--in +Ohio, where they had a pretty white house set round with apple and +peach orchards all white and pink that May day. Her mother cried +because they must leave the house, and because they had to sell all +their furniture and the stock except Daisy, the pet cow, and Buck and +Bright, the oxen, who were to draw the wagon. A round-topped cover of +white cloth was fixed on the big farm-wagon. Then they piled into it +their bedding in calico covers, a chest or two holding clothes and +household goods, a few dishes and cooking things, and plenty of flour, +corn meal, beans, bacon, dried apples and peaches, tied up in sacks. + +Polly says she supposed the trip would just be one long picnic, while +the four children thought it fine fun to "sit on mother's featherbed +and go riding," as they said. So they started off for California. +A long, long ride these emigrants had before them; a weary trip, +plodding along day after day with the patient oxen walking slowly and +the burning sun or pelting rain beating down on the wagon cover. There +was a train of other wagons with them, some pulled by horses but more +by yoked oxen, and the men walked beside the animals and cracked long +whips. A few men were on horseback, but all kept together, for Indians +were plenty and were often hiding near the road, watching for a chance +to cut off and capture any wagons lagging behind the party. + +Day after day, Polly told me, they travelled westward to the setting +sun. They left the orchards and shady woods of Ohio and Indiana far +behind them, and crossed the wide prairies of Illinois and +Missouri also. When they came to rivers they drove through shallow +fording-places, where Polly and the children used to laugh to see the +little fishes swimming round the wagon wheels. Sometimes the rivers +were deep, and the wagons were ferried over on a flatboat that was +fastened to a wire rope, while oxen and horses swam through the water +behind them. If it did not rain, the children and all were happy, and +it did seem like a picnic. But Polly says she never hears the rain +pouring nowadays as it did then, and that there were many times when +they were wet and cold and miserable, and because the wood and ground +were wet they could not even have a fire. + +At night the teams were unhitched and the wagons left in a circle +round a big camp-fire, where supper was cooked. Polly says her mother +used to bake biscuits in an iron spider with red-hot coals heaped on +its iron cover, and these biscuits with fried bacon and tea made +their meal. They always cooked a big potful of corn-meal mush for +the children, and this, with Daisy's milk and a little maple sugar or +molasses, was supper and breakfast too. Then the women and children +cuddled up in the wagons for the night, while men slept, wrapped in +blankets, around the camp-fire or under the wagons, with one always on +guard against danger from prowling Indians or wolves. + +Every man or boy carried a rifle or shotgun, and killed plenty of +game. Deer and antelope were always in sight after they crossed the +Missouri River, and the meat was broiled or roasted over the coals of +their campfire. Wild turkeys and prairie-chicken tasted much better +than bacon, Polly said, and she learned to cook them herself. + +When the emigrants reached Nebraska, they were in the "buffalo +country," and great herds of big, shaggy, brown or black buffaloes +were feeding on the grassy plains. The animals were larger than oxen, +and the Indians depended upon the flesh for food and the thick, warm +skins for robes or blankets. The emigrants shot thousands of buffalo +cows and calves, and what meat could not be eaten at once was cut +into long strips and hung in the sun or over the fire to dry. This +was called "jerking" the meat. On jerked buffalo or venison and flour +pancakes many emigrants lived all the way across. Game was so plenty +and so easy to shoot, that by stopping a few days, a good stock of +meat could be laid in while the oxen were resting. So they travelled +through Nebraska, and for weeks and weeks saw nothing but long grass +waving in the summer winds, and yellow sunflowers--miles and miles of +sunflowers. Polly grew very tired of the hot sun blazing down on the +close-covered wagon, and of the dust raised by the long wagon-train. + +About this time she remembers that her father bought her a little +Indian pony, and from that happy day the child rode beside the wagon, +and could keep out of the dusty trail, or ride a little way off on the +prairie, if she liked. The pony carried double very well, so a small +sister or brother was often lifted on behind for a ride. One night +the Indians, who were always prowling round and coming as near the +wagon-train as they dared, frightened the horses and got away with ten +of them. All the women and children cried, Polly says, for they were +afraid the redskins would come back and kill them. In the morning +Polly's father and some of the men found the Indians' trail and +tracked them to a wooded cañon. The hungry thieves had killed one +horse and were so busy feasting on it that the white men surprised +them and shot all the Indians but two or three. The lost horses and +Polly's pony whinnied to their masters from a thicket, where they were +tied, and were taken back to camp. + +On and on over the great plains of Wyoming the wagons carried these +emigrants. Many found the trip grow tiresome, while the oxen and mules +would often lie down in their traces and refuse to go any farther. A +few days' rest, and the rich bunch-grass to crop soon set the stock +all right, and the white-topped wagons crawled ahead again. Soon the +emigrants saw blue, hazy mountains, far off at first, then nearer and +nearer, till at last their road led through a pass between the peaks. + +Then Polly remembers riding through Utah, with its queer red cliffs +and high rocks carved in strange shapes by winds and weather; the +stretches of sandy desert; and beyond those, grassy meadows and +streams fringed with green willows. After a while Great Salt Lake lay +sparkling in the sun and looking cool and blue. All around it were +alkali deserts or wide plains, hot and dusty and white with salt or +soda. The "prairie schooners," with their covers faded and burnt by +the sun, went very slowly over these desert wastes, Polly thought, +and Nevada, with its dusty gray sage-brush land on either side of the +road, seemed not much better. + +"Papa's little woman" had her hands full now; for her mother was so +ill she seldom left the wagon. All the cooking fell to Polly's share, +and then she would ride along for hours with a little sister on her +lap and fat brother "Bub" behind her on the saddle-blanket, so that +her mother might rest and be quiet. + +But soon the clear green Truckee River ran foaming and fretting beside +the road, and off in the west rose the snowy peaks of the Sierra +Nevada Mountains. Then the people began to laugh and to sing, for they +knew that California, the land of gold, was almost in sight and that +their weary journey was nearly ended. + +And one day they said joyfully to each other, "We are in California +at last;" and it was a happy company that travelled down through the +pines of the mountain sides and the oak trees of the foot-hills. Many +emigrants left the train when they got to the great Sacramento River +valley, and settled here and there to farming. Polly's father with +others kept on to the gold-diggings and camped there. He built a +log-cabin soon, for it was almost winter and time for the rains, and +Polly says she was glad to have a house at last. They finally took up +farming land near what is now Stockton, as gold-mining did not pay. + +Mrs. Davis, who is straight and strong, and still a hard worker, says +her five months' trip across the plains was almost like a long picnic +after all, for she has forgotten many of the trying and disagreeable +things. + + + + +THE BUILDING OF THE OVERLAND RAILROAD + + +The army of emigrants and gold-hunters who crossed the plains to +California found it was a long and tiresome trip by wagon-train or on +horseback. The oxen or mules would sometimes get so tired that they +could go no farther; and because the food often ran short, there was +much suffering from hunger. + +The longest way of all to California was by sailing vessel from New +York round Cape Horn, nearly nineteen thousand miles to San Francisco. +The passengers paid high prices and were six months on the way. Those +who came by the Panama route had trouble crossing the isthmus, where +it was so hot and unhealthy that many died of fevers and cholera. The +Pacific mail steamers connecting with a railroad across the isthmus +at last shortened the time of this trip of six thousand miles to +twenty-five days. For ten years all the Eastern mail came this way +twice a month. + +It was thought a wonderful thing when the "pony express" carried mail +twice a week between St. Joseph, Missouri, where the Eastern railroads +ended, and Sacramento. To do this a rider, with the mail-bag slung +over his shoulder, rode a horse twenty-four miles to the next station, +where a fresh pony was ready. Hardly waiting to eat or sleep, the +rider galloped on again. Five dollars was often charged at that time +to bring the letter railroads carry now for two cents. + +So you will see that a railroad to join California to the Eastern +states was a great necessity and had often been talked of. Several +ways to bring the iron horse puffing across the plains and up the +mountains with his long train of cars had been laid out on paper. The +emigrants had found that the best highway from the Missouri River +to California was to keep along the Platte River in Nebraska to Fort +Laramie and the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, then by Salt Lake, +and along the Humboldt and Truckee rivers, crossing the Sierras +at Donner Pass. Other roads were talked of, and Senator Benton of +Missouri favored a nearly straight line between St. Louis and San +Francisco. Some one, in objecting to this, said that only engineers +could lay out a railroad, and such men did not believe a straight line +possible. The senator answered: "There are engineers who never learned +in school the shortest and straightest way to go, and those are the +buffalo, deer, bear, and antelope, the wild animals who always find +the right path to the lowest passes in the mountains, to rich pastures +and salt springs, and to the shallow fords in the rivers. The Indians +follow the buffalo's path, and so does the white man for game +to shoot. Then the white man builds a wagon-road and at last his +railroad, on the trail the buffalo first laid out." + +For two or three years surveyors and explorers tried to find the +easiest way to build this great overland road. Several railroad acts +or bills were passed by Congress, and the California Legislature gave +the United States the right of way for a road to join the two oceans. + +The first railway in the state was opened in '56 from Sacramento to +Folsom, a distance of twenty-two miles. This was built by T.D. +Judah, an engineer who had thought and studied a great deal about the +overland road so much needed to bring mail and passengers quickly from +East to West. + +A railroad convention, made up of men from the Pacific states and +territories, was held in San Francisco in '59, with General John +Bidwell, a pathfinder of early days, as the chairman. Here Mr. Judah +gave such a clear and full account of the central way he had +planned, that the convention sent him to Washington, D.C., to see the +President, and to try to get Congress to pass a Pacific Railroad +Bill. He had very little help in the East, but at last four men +of Sacramento, Leland Stanford, C.P. Huntington, Mark Hopkins, and +Charles Crocker, took an interest in Judah's plans, and in '61 the +Central Pacific Railroad Company was formed. Mr. Judah went back +to the mountains and studied the pines in summer and the winter +snowbanks, to make sure of the easiest grades and the shortest and +best way for the track-layers. He found that to follow the Truckee +River from near Lake Donner to the Humboldt Desert, would mean the +least work. The tunnels would be through rock, and he believed that +snow might easily be kept off the track with a snow-plough. + +His report pleased the company, and they sent him again to present the +case at Washington. In '62 President Lincoln signed an act or bill to +allow the Union and Central Pacific companies to build a railroad and +a telegraph line from the Missouri River to the Pacific. In California +the land for fifteen miles on each side of the way laid out was given +to the railroad company, and two years was allowed them to build the +first hundred miles of track. + +Ground was broken for the Central Pacific the next year in Sacramento, +and Governor Stanford dug up the first shovelful of earth. Then the +work went steadily on, but it was hard to raise money. Stanford +and his company carried the line forward as fast as possible. More +land-grants were given, which doubled the company's holdings, and in +'65 the road was fifty-five miles past Sacramento and had climbed over +much difficult work. + +The steamship owners, the express and stage companies were all against +the railroad, and tried in every way to make people think that an +engine could never cross the Sierras. Yet the grading went on, while +an army of five thousand men and six hundred horses was at work +cutting down trees and hills and filling up the low places. A bridge +was built over the American River, and slowly but surely the track +climbed the steep mountain-sides. Most of the laborers were Chinese, +as white men found mining or farming paid them better. + +In '67 the iron horse had not only climbed the mountains but had +reached the state line, and the Union Pacific, which had been laying +its tracks over the plains of the Platte River, began to hasten +westward. The two railroads were racing to meet each other, and the +Central sometimes laid ten miles of rails in one day. + +Ogden was made the meeting-point, though at Promontory, fifty miles +west of Ogden, the last spike was driven. A thousand people met at +that place in May, '69, to see the short space of track closed and the +road finished. A Central train and locomotive from the Pacific came +steaming up, and an engine and cars from the Atlantic pulled in on +the other side. Both engines whistled till the snow-capped mountains +echoed. The last tie was of polished California laurel wood, with +a silver plate on which the names of the two companies and their +officers were engraved. It was put under the last two rails, and all +was fastened together with the last spike. This spike, made of solid +gold, Governor Stanford hammered into place with a silver hammer. East +and west the news was flashed over the long telegraph line, that the +overland railroad had been finished and that two oceans were joined by +iron rails. + +Now, while flying along in the cars so fast that the trip from Chicago +to San Francisco takes but three days, it is hard to believe that +little more than thirty years ago travellers in the slow-moving +"prairie-schooner" took over five months to cover this same distance. + + + + +STORY OF THE WHEAT FIELDS + + +The Spanish Padres, as the Mission priests were called, taught the +Indians to plough and seed with wheat the lands belonging to the +church or Mission. They used a simple wooden plough, which oxen +pulled. When the warm brown earth was turned up, the Indians broke the +clods by dragging great tree branches over them. After the fall rains +they scattered tiny wheat kernels and covered them snugly for their +nap in the dark ground. + +More rain fell, and soon the soaked seeds waked, and started in +slender green shoots to find the sunshine, and day by day the stalks +grew stronger and the fields greener. Higher and ever higher sprang +the wheat, till summer winds set the tall grain waving in a sea +of green billows. Have you ever watched the wind blow across a +wheat-field? Over and over the long rollers bend the tops of the +grain, that rise as the breeze goes on and bend low again at the next +breath of wind. + +When the hot sun had ripened the grain, and all round the +white-walled, red-roofed Mission the fields stretched golden and ready +for harvest, the Indians cut the wheat, and scattering the bundles +over a spot of hard ground, drove oxen round and round on the sheaves +till the wheat was threshed out from the straw. Then Indian women +winnowed out the chaff and dirt by tossing the grain up in the wind, +or from basket to basket, till in this slow way the yellow kernels +were made clean and ready to grind. + +A curious mill, called an arrastra, ground the grain between two heavy +stones. A wooden beam was fastened to the upper stone, and oxen or a +mule hitched to this beam turned the stone as they walked round. The +first flour-mill worked by water was put up at San Gabriel Mission, +and it was thought a wonderful thing indeed. + +Even in those early days California wheat was known to be excellent, +and many ships came on the South Sea, as they then called the Pacific +Ocean, to load with grain for Mexico or Boston or England. Since that +time our state has fed countless people, and over a million acres of +valley and hill lands are green and golden every year with food for +the world. To Europe, to the swarming people of China, Japan, and +India, to South Africa and Australia, our grain is carried in great +ships and steamers, and hungry nations in many lands look to us for +bread. + +For a long time after the Mission days, all the grain had to be hauled +to the rivers or sea-coast for shipping. Then the overland railroad +was finished, and within the next fifteen years an additional two +thousand miles of railways were built in California, and nearly every +mile opened up rich wheat land that had never been cultivated. Soon +great wheat ranches stretched far over the dry, hot valley plains. + +The ground is ploughed and seeded after November rains, and all winter +the tender blades of grain grow greener and stronger day by day March +and April rains strengthen the crop wonderfully, and June and July +bring the harvest-time. As no rain falls then, the ripe wheat stands +in the field till cut, and afterward in sacks without harm. All the +work except ploughing is done by machinery, and this makes the wheat +cost less to raise, since a machine does the work of many men and the +expense of running it is small. + +Some of the ranches have three or four thousand acres in wheat, and +it may interest you to know how such large farms are managed. The +ploughing is done by a gang-plough, as it is called, which has four +steel ploughshares that turn up the ground ten inches deep. Eight +horses draw this, and as a seeder is fastened to the plough, and back +of the plough a harrow, the horses plough, seed, harrow, and cover up +the grain at one time. There the seed-wheat lies tucked up in its warm +brown bed till rain and sunshine call out the tiny green spears, and +coax them higher and stronger, and the hot sun of June and July ripens +the precious grain. + +Then a great machine called a "header and thresher" is driven into +the field and sweeps through miles and miles of bending grain, cutting +swaths as wide as a street, and harvesting, threshing, and leaving +a long trail of sacked wheat ready to ship on the cars. Thirty-six +horses draw the header, and five or six men are needed to attend to +this giant, who bites off the grain, shakes out the kernels, throws +them into sacks and sews them up, all in one breath, as you might say. +The harvesters work from daylight to dusk, and three-fourths of our +wheat crop is gathered in this way. + +Much golden straw is left, besides that which the "headers" burn as +fuel, and farmers stack this straw for cattle to nibble at. The stock +feed in the stubble fields, too, and strange visitors also come +to these ranches to pick up the scattered grains of wheat. These +strangers are wild white geese, in such large flocks that when feeding +they look like snow patches on the ground. They eat so much that often +they cannot fly and may be knocked over with clubs. In the spring +these geese must be driven away by watchmen with shot-guns to keep +them from pulling up the young grain. + +The largest single wheat-field in California is on the banks of the +San Joaquin River, in Madera County. This covers twenty-five thousand +acres and is almost as flat as a floor. It is nearly a perfect square +in shape, and each side of the square is a little over six miles long. +There are no roads through this solid stretch of grain. Two hundred +men, a thousand horses, and many big machines are needed to work this +wheat-field. + +Some of the big harvesters that cut and thresh the wheat are drawn by +a traction-engine instead of horses. In running a fifty-horse-power +engine high-priced coal had to be burnt but now the coal grates are +replaced by petroleum burners, and crude coal-oil is the cheap fuel. +This does not make sparks to set the fields on fire like burning coal +or straw and so is safer to use. + +On large ranches wheat can be grown for less than a cent a pound, +while it has brought two cents or double the money when sold. But +there are not always good crops, as the grain needs plenty of moisture +in the spring when rains are uncertain. + +The wheat crop of the state has fallen off of late to less than half +the yield of earlier years, but the deep, rich valley soil still grows +grain enough to feed hungry people in Europe, Asia, and Africa, +as well as in our own Union. Great quantities are taken in large +four-masted ships to Liverpool, England, and there made into American +flour. Our own flour-mills turn out thousands of barrels of flour, +and this travels far, too. The first thing picked up in Manila after +Admiral Dewey's victory was a flour sack with a California mill mark. + +It would need a long, long story to tell how far from home and into +what strange places the yellow kernels of California wheat sometimes +travel, or to picture the odd people who depend upon us for food. + + + + +ORCHARD, FARM, AND VINEYARD + + +Long ago the Mission Fathers taught the Indians to plant and to take +care of vines and fruit-trees. They built water-works to bring life to +the thirsty trees in the dry summers, and to grow oranges, limes, +and figs, as well as peaches, apricots, and apples. They trained +grape-vines over arbors and trellises round the Mission buildings, and +from the small, black grapes made wine. Olive trees and date-palms did +well at the southern settlements. But most of these orchards died when +the Mission Fathers were no longer allowed to make the Indians work +for the church property, though a few old palms and olive trees are +still standing. + +During Mexican days each ranch owner raised enough grain or corn and +beans for his own family but planted no fruit, or but little, while +the Americans who came to seek gold thought farming a slow way of +making a living. People soon found out, however, that our fine climate +and rich soil made good crops almost certain, and there was such +demand for fruit and farm products that more and more acres were +cultivated each year. + +Our leading industry now is farming and fruit-growing, and +California's delicious fresh or cured fruit is sent all over the +world. Large amounts of barley and hops are shipped from here to +Europe, and our state produces almost all the Lima beans used in the +country. + +The citrus fruits, as oranges, lemons, and pomelos, or "grape-fruit," +are called, grow in the seven southern counties, or in the foothills +on the western slope of the Sierras. The trees cannot endure frost and +must be irrigated in the summer. Orange trees are a pretty sight, with +their shining green leaves, white, sweet-smelling flowers, and the +green or golden fruit. About Christmas-time, when oranges ripen, both +blossoms and fruit may be picked from the same tree. Los Angeles and +Orange County grow most oranges, but San Diego is first in lemon +culture. Half a million trees in that county show the bright yellow +fruit and fragrant blossoms every month in the year. The other +southern counties also raise lemons by the car-load to send east, or +for your lemonade and lemon pies at home. + +[Illustration: AN ORANGE TREE WITH FRUIT AND BLOSSOMS.] + +[Illustration: PALMS OVER 100 YEARS OLD AT LOS ANGLES.] + +There, too, the olive grows well, that little plum-shaped fruit you +usually see as a green, salt pickle on the table. The Mission Fathers +brought this tree first from Spain, where the poor people live upon +black bread and olives. Olives are picked while green and put in +a strong brine of salt and water to preserve them for eating. Dark +purple ripe olives are also very good prepared the same way. Did you +know that olive-oil is pressed out of ripe olives? The best oil comes +from the first crushing, and the pulp is afterwards heated, when a +second quality of oil is obtained. Olive trees grow very slowly, and +do not fruit for seven years after they are planted. But they live a +hundred years, and bear more olives every season. + +The black or purple fig which grew in the old Mission gardens bears +fruit everywhere in the state. Either fresh and ripe, or pressed flat +and dried, it is delicious and healthful. White figs like those from +abroad have been raised the last few years, and it is hoped in time to +produce Smyrna figs equal to the imported. + +While peach orchards blossom and bear fruit six months of the year in +the south, most of this pretty pink-cheeked fruit grows in the great +valleys, or along the Sacramento River. Pears also show their snowy +blossoms and yellow fruit in the valleys and farther north. The +Bartlett pear is sent to all the Eastern states in cold storage cars +kept cool by ice, and also to Europe. + +The finest apricots are those of that wonderful southern country, +miles and miles of orchards lying round Fresno especially. Yet the +valleys and foot-hills produce plenty, and in the old mining counties +very choice fruit ripens. Apples like the high mountain valleys, where +they get a touch of frost in winter, though there is a cool section of +San Diego County where fine ones are raised. Cherries do well in the +middle and valley regions, the earliest coming from Vacaville, in +Solano County. + +Grapes grow throughout the state, though the famous raisin vineyards, +where thousands of tons are dried every year, are around Fresno. Most +of the raisins are dried in the sun, but in one factory a hundred tons +of grapes may be dried at one time by steam. The raisins are seeded by +machinery, and packed in pretty boxes to send all over the coast, and +through the states, where once only foreign raisins were used. Many +vineyards in the southern part and middle of the state grow only wine +grapes, California wines, champagne, and brandy having a wide use. + +Great quantities of fresh fruits are used in the state or sent away, +while the canneries put up immense amounts, also. Canned fruit reaches +many consumers, but it is expensive. Our cured or dried fruit, however +is so cheap and so good that millions of pounds are prepared every +year. Such fruit ripens on the tree and so keeps all its fine flavor. +It is then dried in the sunshine, which not only fits it for long +keeping but turns part of it to sugar. Apricots, peaches, pears, and +cherries are usually cut in halves or stoned before drying. Prunes are +first on the list of cured fruits, and they seem the best to use as +food. The ripe prunes are dipped into a boiling lye to make the skin +tender, then rinsed and spread in the sun a day or two. They are then +allowed to "sweat" to get a good color, are next dipped in boiling +water a minute or two, dried, and finally graded, a certain number to +the pound, and packed in boxes or sacks. + +Several kinds of nuts grow well in the state. All the so-called +"English" walnuts, with their thin shells, are raised in the south, +Orange County furnishing half the amount we market. Peanuts and +almonds are a good crop there, also, though almond groves are in all +parts of the state. Both paper and thick-shelled almonds are usually +bleached, or whitened, with sulphur smoke to improve their color. + +Santa Barbara and Ventura are the bean counties of the state, and send +Lima beans away by train-loads, while Orange County grows celery for +the Eastern market. Very high prices are received for this celery and +other vegetables sent from California during the winter season when +fields are covered with snow in the East. + +And did you know that the state produces a great deal of sugar? Tons +and tons of sugar-beets are grown throughout the farming lands, and +harvested in September. When the juice of these crushed beets is +boiled and refined, it makes a sugar exactly like cane sugar and much +cheaper. One-fifth of the beet is sugar, it is said. + +Even the dry, worthless mountain sides are valuable to the bee-keeper. +The bees make a delicious honey from the wild, white sage, which grows +where nothing else will live. This sage honey brings the very highest +price. + +Oats are raised in the coast counties, and corn in the valleys, but +owing to cool nights and dry air the corn seldom makes a good crop. +Orange County, however, claims corn with stalks twenty feet high and +a hundred bushels to the acre. In the south, also, that wonderful +forage-plant, alfalfa, will produce six crops a year by irrigation and +give a ton or more to the acre at each cutting. + +Along the upper Sacramento River stretch the great hop-fields full +of tall vines covered with light-green tassels. At hop-picking season +many families have a month's picnic, children and all working day +after day in the fields and pulling off the fragrant hops. Indians, +too, are among the best hop-pickers. The dried hops are bleached with +sulphur, baled, and in great quantities sent to Liverpool, where with +California barley they are used in brewing malt liquors. + +An odd crop is mustard, and at Lompoc, in Santa Barbara County, enough +for the whole country is grown. Both brown and yellow mustard is +cultivated, and the little seeds, almost as fine as gunpowder, are +sold to spice-mills and pickle-factories. + +Whole farms are taken up with the production of flower-seeds or bulbs, +with acres and acres of calla-lilies, roses, carnations, and violets. +The tall pampas-grass, with its long feathery plumes, gives a +profitable crop. Indeed, one can scarcely name a fruit, flower, or +tree that will not thrive and grow to perfection in our mild climate +and rich soil. + + + + +THE STORY OF THE NAVEL ORANGE + + +Who has not enjoyed a juicy navel orange, while wondering at its +peculiar shape and lack of troublesome seeds? Yet few people know that +this particular variety has brought millions of dollars into our state +and made orange growing our third greatest industry. + +Read this story of the seedless orange, this "golden apple of +California," which was first cultivated by Luther Tibbets, of +Riverside, and learn how Southern California has profited by its navel +orange crops. + +Nearly thirty years ago Mr. Tibbets came from New York to this state +and took up free government land near what is now the beautiful city +of Riverside. He was one of the half-dozen pioneer fruit-growers +of that region, and had noticed at the San Gabriel Mission how well +orange trees grew there. His wife and daughter waited in Washington, +D.C., until a home should be ready here for them, and they often sent +Mr. Tibbets plants and seeds from the Department of Agriculture. To +this Department and its gardens in Washington, many curious plants +are forwarded from other countries for growing and experiment in the +United States. New kinds of grain or fruits are carefully cultivated +and watched by the Department, and from it farmers can always get +seeds or cuttings to try on their own farms. + +Mrs. Tibbets often visited the Department gardens, and in 1873 she +wrote to her husband that she could get him some fine orange trees if +he would promise the government to take great care of them and to keep +them apart from other trees till they fruited. Of course he agreed to +give them special attention, and therefore that December he received +three small, rooted orange trees. A cow chewed up one of these, but +for five years the others were watched and tended. Then sweet white +blossoms appeared on each little tree, and afterwards two oranges, +like hard green bullets at first. Finally, in January, 1879, Mr. +Tibbets picked four large, well-flavored, golden oranges, the first +seedless ones ever grown outside of Brazil. + +From the hot swamps of the tropical country at Bahia the United States +Consul had sent six cuttings of this peculiar orange to be planted +in the Washington gardens. All died but the two at Riverside. In 1880 +they bore half a bushel of fruit, and the new seedless oranges were +talked of throughout Southern California. The other orange growers +had been cultivating "seedlings," trees which bore smaller fruit, with +many bitter seeds and a thick skin. Many of these growers now cut back +their seedlings to bare limbs, and grafted the new orange on these +branches. This is called "budding," and is done by cutting off a thin +slip of bark with a tiny folded-up leaf-bud on it, inserting the graft +in the branch to be budded and securing it there with wax to keep the +air out. The little bud drinks in sap from the tree stem, and grows +and blossoms true to its own mother tree. + +There were few orange groves then, but soon nearly all were budded +to the new kind, seventy-five acres being so changed on the Baldwin +Ranch; and when these trees began to bear, some five years afterwards, +people were much excited over the seedless fruit. + +Such high prices were paid for these oranges at first, that orange +growing boomed all over Southern California. People thought their +fortunes were made when they set out a few acres of small budded trees +they had paid a dollar or more apiece for. Whole towns sprang up in +dry treeless valleys where only cattle and sheep had pastured, +and land worth only twenty-five dollars an acre before the orange +excitement, sold quickly for eight hundred and a thousand when planted +with trees. The towns of Pomona, Redlands, Monrovia, and others in +the orange localities were unknown before 1885, and grew to several +thousand population in a few years. Everybody talked of the great +profit in orange growing, and people who had nurseries of young trees +grown from navel buds made fortunes. + +At this day thousands of acres of seedless oranges are in full bearing +and no one buys the old kinds. Hundreds of car-loads of the seedlings +are not even picked, and ninety per cent of the eighteen thousand +car-loads which make the season's orange crop are navel oranges. Over +forty-five millions of dollars are now invested in the growing and +marketing of this remarkable fruit. + +At Riverside, the home of the orange, the two original Washington +navel trees still stand. Mr. Tibbets guarded them for years, had them +fenced with high latticework, and seldom allowed any one to touch +them. He refused ten thousand dollars for them, since for months he +sold hundreds of dollars' worth of buds from these parent trees. These +two trees and their large family have caused thousands of people to +come to the state, and have built up Southern California wonderfully. + + + + +THE LEMON + + +For many years people who use that sour but necessary fruit, the +lemon, thought that only the little yellow ones which came from the +far-away island of Sicily were good. The men who import foreign fruits +always said so; and in spite of the fact that the larger California +lemon was more acid, of as good flavor, smooth skinned, and golden, +people believed the Mediterranean groves produced the best. But, at +last, our warm, dry air, good soil, and plenty of water, together with +care and skill while growing and packing, have made California lemons +the most in demand. These lemons keep well, and bear shipping and long +journeys better than the imported fruit. + +Citrus fruits, as the orange and lemon are called, do well in all the +southern counties, and San Diego County boasts of not only the largest +lemon grove in California, but in the world. This is a thousand-acre +tract overlooking San Diego Bay and cultivated by the Chula Vista +colony. It was once a pasture given up to wandering bands of cattle +and sheep. There was little water, and no one ever thought these dry +mesa lands would one day be a beautiful garden spot, green with the +shining lemon leaves, and golden with fruit. + +A company was formed to develop this forty-two square miles of land, +and to get water for irrigation, since all the trees must have little +streams of water round their thirsty roots three or four times during +the dry summer. A great dam was constructed on the Sweetwater River, +near Chula Vista, and a reservoir built. Water was piped from this to +the lemon groves, which are about a hundred feet below the reservoir, +and from May to September the trees are irrigated. This is done by +ploughing furrows on each side of a row of trees and turning small +rills of water slowly down them till the ground is soaked around the +tree roots. No one thought the great reservoir would ever be empty, +but two winters with but little rain made it necessary to put down +many wells in the dry bed of the Sweetwater River, and from these a +strong steady flow of millions of gallons is pumped into the water +pipes. So this great lemon orchard is always sure of water enough, +returning the gift later in generous golden measure. + +One may pick lemon blossoms, ripe and green fruit every month in the +year from the same tree, but most of the crop ripens from November to +June. + +Lemons are carefully cut from the tree, and usually picked by size, a +ring being slipped over them, without regard to their ripeness. They +grow so thick on the tree that a man can pick more than twenty boxes +a day. In preparing it for market the fruit "sweats," as it is called, +in airy boxes, for a month in winter and ten days in summer, and +ripens and colors during this process. Then each lemon is wiped +dry and clean, wrapped separately in tissue-paper, and packed for +shipment. The cost of a box of lemons from the tree to the railroad is +about thirty-five cents. + +Thousands of car-loads are shipped to the Eastern and Middle states, +while the Pacific Coast is a never-failing market. + +Small, imperfect, and bruised fruit goes to the citric acid factory +near the packing-houses. From these oil of lemon, lemon sugar, and +clear green citric-acid crystals are made, and the crushed waste is +returned to the grove and ploughed in about the trees as a fertilizer. + + + + +FLOWERS AND PLANTS + + +"When California was wild," says John Muir, "it was one sweet +bee-garden throughout its entire length, and from the snowy Sierra to +the ocean." + +There were so many yellow poppies in this great unfenced garden, that +the Spanish sailing along the coast called it the "Land of Fire" from +the golden flowers covering the hills. Near Pasadena, in Southern +California, these poppy fields may still be seen glowing so brightly +in the sun that you do not wonder at the name "Cape Las Flores," or +Flower Cape, which the sailors also gave to this part of the country. + +[Illustration: IN A MISSION GARDEN.] + +[Illustration: A CHRISTMAS GARDEN.] + +The poppy is our best-known wild flower, planted by Mother Nature +before white men ever visited these shores. When the Spanish +settled here they called the poppy _copa de oro_, or cup of gold. +The gold hunters spoke of it as the California gold flower, and sent +the pressed poppies home in their letters. But its correct name is +the Eschscholtzia (esh-sholt'si-a), from the name of a German +botanist and naturalist, who studied the plant and wrote about it +almost a hundred years ago. + +From February to May the poppies are most plentiful, but a few may be +found almost every month in the year. Have you noticed the finely cut +green leaves, and the pointed green nightcap that covers each bud till +the morning sunshine coaxes off the cap and unfolds the four satiny +golden petals? The flowers love the sun and close up on dark, cloudy +days, or if brought into the house. But put them in a sunny window the +next morning, and you may watch the cups of gold open to the light. + +Some of the poppies are a deep orange-color, while others are a pale +yellow. And as you walk through the fields you may pick a hundred at +each step, so thick do the plants grow. The wild bees find a yellow +dust called pollen or "bee-bread" in the poppy, the same golden powder +that rubs off on your nose, when you put it too close to this cup of +gold or to lilies. + +Then in this "unfenced garden" were also the baby blue-eyes, whose +pretty pale-blue blossoms come early in the spring, each one with a +drop of honey at the foot of its honey path, as the black lines on its +petals are called. + +Can you name twenty kinds of wild flowers? Around San Francisco and +the bay counties you will count, after the poppy and baby blue-eyes, +the shining yellow buttercup, the blue and yellow lupines that grow in +the sand, the tall thistle whose sharp, prickly leaves and thorny +red blossoms spell "Let-me-alone," the blue flag-lilies and red +paint-brush, yellow cream-cups, and wild mustard, and an orange +pentstemon. These with many yellow compositæ or flowers like the +dandelion, you will find growing on the windy hills and dry, sunny +places. Hiding away in quiet corners are the blue-eyed grass, and +a wild purple hyacinth, the scarlet columbine swinging its golden +tassels, shy blue larkspur, a small yellow sunflower, and wild pink +roses. Among the ferns in shady, wet nooks are white trilliums and a +delicate pink bleeding-heart, while the wild blue violets and yellow +pansies love the warm, rocky hillside. + +Mariposas, or butterfly tulips of many colors, grow in the foot-hills +and mountains. Perhaps our most beautiful wild flowers are the lilies, +of which we have over a dozen kinds. In the redwood forests there is a +tall, lovely pink lily, and many brown-spotted yellow tiger-lilies. Up +in the mountain pines a snowy white Washington lily sometimes covers +a mountain side with its tall stems bearing dozens of sweet waxen +blossoms. In the wet, swampy places bright red, and many small orange +lilies bloom in late summer. + +In the high Sierras are found strange and pretty blossoms unlike +the flowers of valleys and sea-coast. There you will see the +mountain-heather with pink, purple, or dainty white bells, the +goldenrod, and gentians blue as the sky. Strangest of all is the +snow-plant. This curious thing sends up a thick, fleshy spike a foot +or so in height and set closely with bright scarlet flowers. It grows +where the snow has just melted round the fir trees, and leaf, stem, +and blossom are all the same glowing red. + +Most of the valley and coast wild-flowers bloom and ripen their seeds +before the dry summer begins. Such plants die and wither away in the +heat, but their seeds are safe on the warm ground till fall rains soak +the earth and set them growing again. In the high mountains a thick +blanket of snow covers the sleeping seeds till May or June, and then +sunshine wakes them once more. + +[Illustration: "WAWONA" (28 feet in diameter).] + +[Illustration: THE GRIZZLY GIANT (33 feet in diameter).] + +No doubt you have seen many of our shrubs or tall bush-plants in your +vacations. Do you remember the sweet creamy white azaleas and the +buckeyes that grow along the creeks in the redwoods? And the feathery +blue blossoms of the wild lilac crowding in close thickets up +the hillsides? One of our shrubs is a holiday visitor, the +Christmas-berry, whose bright-red clusters trim your house at that +gay, happy season. The manzanita is another pretty bush, with pink +bells that ripen to small scarlet apples in the fall. + +Usually, these and other shrubs cover the hillsides with a thick, +matted tangle of stems and branches almost impossible to get through. +This chaparral, as the Spanish called it, clothes the foot-hills and +mountain sides with a close growth through which deer and bears alone +can travel and make trails or runways. Great stretches of buckthorn in +the north, and of sage-brush in the south, cover the wild lands, while +in the sandy desert tall, prickly cactus, yucca, and mesquite grow +with the sage-brush in the blazing sun. + +Only a few of California's wild plants and flowers have been now +called to your notice. But children have sharp eyes, and you will +find many more to inquire about in your vacation days. Then +the blackberries and thimble-berries will be ripe, and the pink +salmon-berry in the redwoods. Perhaps you will look for and dig up the +soaproot, that onion-like bulb of one of the lily family with which +the Indians make a soapy lather to wash their clothes. Let us hope +you will know and keep away from the "poison-oak," the low bush with +pretty red leaves, for its leaves are apt to make your skin swell up +and blister wherever they touch you. + +What a long and pleasant story might be told you of our state's real +gardens! Perhaps your teacher will give you an hour to talk about your +home gardens, and to see how much you can tell about them. You may +have flowers the year round, if you live on the coast, or in the warm +valleys where no Jack Frost comes with his icy breath to kill the +tender plants. In such genial climates roses and geraniums bloom all +year, and only rest when the gardener cuts them back; and most of the +shrubs and trees in parks and gardens are always fresh and green. + +Florists who raise flowers to sell find that here they can grow the +choicest and finest carnations, roses, and all the garden blossoms you +know so well. Many of these florists deal only in flower-seeds, and +bulbs or roots of the lilies to send to the Eastern states or abroad, +where people greatly prize California flowers. + +Plants and trees from all parts of the world thrive here, also. You +have seen the palms, the tall sword-palm with its great spike of snowy +bloom in the spring, the fan-palm whose dried and trimmed leaves +are really used for fans, and, perhaps, the date-palm. This tree +was planted round the Missions by the Padres, and some, more than +a hundred years old, are still standing at the San Gabriel Mission. +These, and the magnolia with its large creamy blossoms, as well as the +graceful pepper-tree, are natives of warm, southern lands, while the +eucalyptus, or gum-tree, was brought here from Australia. + +Look round, children, as you walk to and from school, or in the park, +and try to know and name the green things growing there, the flowers +and plants sent to make our world a pleasant place to live in. + + + + +THE BIG TREES AND LUMBERING + + +The largest trees in the world are those forest giants of California +which grow on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevadas, and nowhere +else on the globe. People carelessly call these grand trees "redwoods" +or "big trees," but their family name is Sequoia, an Indian chief's +name. When the trees were first discovered, in 1853, accounts of their +height and size were sent to England. Supposing this giant to be a new +tree, it was there christened _Wellingtonia_, and also _gigantea_ +for its immense measurements. While Americans were trying to have it +called _Washingtonia_, a famous Frenchman who knew all about trees +decided that the specimen sent him was certainly a sequoia, as named +by a German professor some six years before this time. So the tree was +called _sequoia gigantea_ and quietly went on growing, unmindful of +the four nations who had quarrelled over its christening. Why, indeed, +should it bother its lofty head with the chatter of people whose +countries were unknown when this mighty tree was full grown? For +these sequoias are the oldest of living objects and have probably been +growing for four thousand years. How do we know this? Well, when a +fallen trunk is sawed across, one can see rings in the wood, and it is +thought that each ring is a year's growth. John Muir counted over four +thousand of these annual rings on the stump of one of the Kings River +trees. + +These fine old trees grow in groves, and of the nine or ten groves +the Calaveras and Mariposa are the best known. The Calaveras group of +nearly a hundred mighty trees was the first one discovered, and four +trees here are over three hundred feet high. The fallen "Father of +the Forest" must have been much higher, for it measures a hundred feet +round its trunk at the root end. A man can ride on horseback for two +hundred feet through its hollow trunk as it lies on the ground. Many +of the standing trees hollowed out by fires are large enough, used as +cabins, to live in. + +The Mariposa grove of Big Trees, being not far from Yosemite Valley, +is the best known, as thousands of tourists visit both places. There +is a big tree at Mariposa for every day in the year, and two very +wonderful ones, the Grizzly Giant and Wawona. Stage-coaches drive into +the grove through the tree Wawona, which was bored and burned out +so as to make an opening ten by twelve feet. A wall of wood ten feet +thick on each side of this opening supports the living tree. The great +Grizzly Giant towers a hundred feet without a branch, and twice that +height above the first immense branches that are six feet through. +This was, no doubt, an old tree when Columbus discovered America, yet +it is alive and green and still growing. + +The largest tree in the world is the General Sherman, in Sequoia +National Park, and it is thirty-five feet in diameter. This means that +the stump of the tree, if smoothed off, would make a floor on which +thirty people might dance, or your whole class be seated. You can +scarcely imagine what a mighty column such a tree is, with its rich +red-brown bark, fluted like a column, too, and with its crown of +feathery green branches and foliage. The bark is a foot or two thick. +The trees are evergreens, and conifers, or cone-bearers. Sequoia cones +are two or three inches long and full of small seeds. The Douglas +squirrel gets most of these seeds, but there are still seedlings and +saplings or young trees enough to keep the race alive in most of the +groves. + +These groves of wonderful and rare trees are protected as National +Parks in the Sequoia and Grant groves, and Mariposa belongs to the +state. It is against the law to cut the trees in those groves. Their +worst enemy is fire, and a troop of cavalry is sent every year to +guard them, and to keep out the sheep-herders, whose flocks would +destroy the underbrush and young trees. But, unfortunately, lumbermen +have put up mills near the Fresno and Kings River groups, and, wasting +more than they use, are destroying magnificent trees thousands of +years old in order to make shingles. When nature has taken such good +care of this rare and wonderful tree, the Sierra Giant, men should try +to preserve the groves unharmed in all their beauty. + +Another _sequoia_ grows in great forests along the Coast Range from +Santa Cruz to the northern state-line, and beyond into Oregon. This +is the _sequoia sempervirens_, the Latin name meaning always green. +Redwood is its common name, and the lumber for our frame or wooden +houses is cut from this tree. Millions of feet of this redwood lumber +are shipped from the northern counties of the state every year, up +to Alaska or down to Central and South America. It is also sent far +across the Pacific to the Hawaiian and Philippine islands and to China +and Australia. + +While the _sequoia gigantea_ delights in a clear sky and hot sunshine, +its brother, the _sempervirens_, prefers a cool sea-coast climate, +offering frequent baths of fog. There is also a difference in the size +of these trees; the redwood is often three hundred feet high, but +is less in girth than its relative in the Sierras. There is not much +underbrush and little sunshine in the cool, green redwood forests, +each tree rising tall and stately for a hundred feet without branches, +while the green tops seem almost to touch the sky as one looks up. +Through the woods one hears the blue jay scream and chatter, and the +tap, tap of the woodpecker as he drills holes in the bark to fill with +acorns for his winter store. + +When the lumberman looks at these beautiful forests, he sees only many +logs containing many thousand feet of lumber, which he must get out +the easiest and cheapest way. He only chooses the finest and largest +trunks, and there is great waste in cutting these. The men begin +to saw the tree some eight or ten feet from the ground, and soon it +trembles and falls with a mighty crash, often snapping off other trees +in its way to the ground. After all the selected trees have fallen, +fires are started to burn off the branches and underbrush so that the +men can work easier. This fire only chars the outside bark of the big, +green logs, but it kills all the young saplings, and leaves the once +beautiful forest a waste of blackened logs and gray ashes. When the +fire burns itself out, the logs are usually sawed with a cross-cut saw +into sixteen-foot lengths, since in that form they are easy to handle. +Then oxen or horses haul them out; or sometimes a wire cable is +fastened to them by iron "dogs," or stakes, and a little stationary +engine pulls them away to the siding at the railroad track. Here they +are rolled on flat-cars, fastened with a big iron chain around the +four or six logs on the car, and taken on the logging train to the +mill-pond. They lie soaking in the water until drawn up to the keen +saws of the sawmill that cut and slice the wood like cheese. The bark +and outside is carved off as you would cut the crust off bread, and +then sharp, circular saws cut boards and planks till the log is used +up, and the log-carriage lifts another to its place. As the shining +steel bites into the wood the noise almost deafens you and the mill +shakes with the thunder of log-carriage and feeders. Useless ends, +slabs, and refuse are burnt in the sawdust pit, where the fires never +go out. Very much of the tree is wasted and all the limbs. The redwood +tree has so much life and strength, however, that it sends up bright +green sprouts around the burnt stump, and standing trees charred +outside to the tops will have new branches the next season. In the +older forests tall young trees are often seen growing in a ring round +an empty spot, the long-dead stump having rotted away. + +[Illustration: BIG TREES AT FELTON, SANTA CRUZ CO.] + +Near Santa Cruz is a grove of large and beautiful redwoods, many +of the trees being over three hundred feet high and from forty +to sixty-five feet around the base of the trunk. The Giant is the +largest, and three other immense ones are named for Generals Grant, +Sherman, and Fremont. In 1846 General Fremont found this grove, and +camped, on a rainy winter night, in the hollow trunk of the tree +bearing his name. Here is also seen a group of eleven very tall trees +growing in a circle around an old stump. + +In the Sierras, both in the _sequoia_ groves and forests above the +Big-Tree region, are very large sugar-pines, red firs, and yellow-pine +trees, all of which make excellent lumber. Great forests of these +trees, with cedars almost as large as the redwoods, are in the +northern counties also. You may have seen sugar-pine cones which are +over a foot long, the largest of all found, while redwood cones are +the smallest. Another great tree is the Douglas spruce, the king of +spruce trees, growing in both Sierra Nevada and Coast ranges. + +The California laurel, or bay tree, with its beautiful, shining green +leaves, and the madroño, the slender, red-barked tree on the hillsides +you must have noticed in your trips to the country, as well as our +fine valley and mountain oaks. Try to learn the kinds of trees and +study their leaves, blossoms, and fruit, and you will find every one +a friend well worth knowing. Then you will wish to save them from fire +and the lumberman's axe, especially the rare and old _sequoias_. + + + + +OUR BIRDS + + +More than three hundred kinds of these dear feathered friends and +visitors live in California. Along the sea-shore, in the great valleys +and the mountain-forests and meadows, even in the dry, hot desert, the +birds, our shy and merry neighbors, are at home. In many parts of +the state they find sunshine and green trees the year round, and food +always at hand. Yet sparrows, robins, and woodpeckers will stay in the +snowed-in groves of the Sierras all winter, contentedly chirping or +singing in spite of the bitter cold. + +If you know these wanderers of wood and field, these birds of sea and +shore, and their interesting habits, you will wish to protect them +from stone or gun, and their nests from the egg collector. You will +listen to the lark and linnet, and be glad that the happy songster +trilling such sweet notes is free to fly where he wishes, and is +not pining in a cage. And you, little girl, will not encourage the +destruction of these pretty creatures by wearing a sea-gull or part of +some dead bird on your hat. + +To become better acquainted with birds, let us call them before us by +classes, beginning with our sea-birds and those round the bays and on +the coast. Some of these not only swim but dive in the salt waters, +and to this class of divers belong the grebe, loon, murre, and puffin. +They dive at the flash of a gun, and after what seems a long time, +come up far away from the spot the hunter aimed at. These birds +usually nest on bare, rocky cliffs near the ocean, or on islands like +the Farallones, and their large green eggs hatch out nestlings that +are ugly and awkward and helpless on land. But they ride the great +ocean-breakers, or dive into their clear depths easily and gracefully; +and as they live upon fish or small sea-creatures, the divers only +seek land to roost at night and to raise their young. + +Next come the gulls, who belong to a class known as "long-winged +swimmers." They have strong wings and fly great distances, and with +their webbed feet swim well, too. Most of the sea-gulls are white with +a gray coat on their backs, but they look snowy-white as they fly. You +may see them walking about the wharves, or perching on roofs and piles +watching for food, and seeming very tame as they pick up bits of bread +or the refuse floating in the water. They follow steamers for miles, +scarcely moving their wings as they float in the air; and if you throw +a cracker from the deck, some gull will make a swift swoop and snatch +it before the cracker reaches the water. + +Far out on the Pacific the albatross sails proudly on his broad wings, +and cares nothing for high winds or storms. He rests and sleeps on the +billows at night with his little companions, the stormy petrels. He is +the largest and strongest of our birds of flight, the very king of the +sea. The stormy petrels are not much larger than a swallow. Sailors +call them. "Mother Carey's chickens," and are sure a storm is +coming up when petrels follow the ship. The albatross, petrel, and +a gull-like bird called a shearwater belong to the "tube-nosed +swimmers," on account of their curious long beaks. + +Along the coast, and wading in the shallow waters around the bays, are +some strange birds known as pelicans and shags. They are good fishers, +and drive the darting, finny fellows before them as they wade in the +water till they can see and gobble them up. Most waders have under +their beaks a skin-pocket deep enough to hold a fish while carrying +it to their nestlings, or making ready to swallow it. All of these +sea-birds raise their young as far from the shore and from hunters +as possible. Great flocks of them roost on islands fifteen or twenty +miles out in the ocean, and fly into the bays every morning. + +Wild ducks, geese, the herons, mud-hens, sandpipers, and curlews are +marsh and shore birds that feed and wade in the shallow salt water, +and nest on the banks or, like the heron, in trees near the bay. The +heron is a frog-catcher, and he will stand very still on his long legs +and patiently wait till the frog, thinking him gone, swims near. Then +one dart of the long bill captures froggy, and the heron waits for +another. You know the red-head, green mallard, canvas-back, and small +teal ducks, no doubt, and have seen the flocks of wild geese flying +and calling in the sky, or standing like patches of snow as they feed +in the marshes or grain-fields. + +Down on the mud-flats at low tide you see birds called rails, and also +"kill-dee" plovers. The shoveller ducks are there, too fishing up with +broad, flat beaks little crabs and such creatures as are in the mud, +straining out mud and water, but swallowing the rest. All these birds +are "waders" and delight in mud and cold salt water. They are usually +quiet, or make only strange, shrill cries. + +In the sunny fields and woods we shall find many of the land-birds, +and first comes a family whose habits are so like those of chickens +that they are called "scratchers." These birds depend for food upon +seeds and bugs or worms they scratch out of the ground. Up in +the Sierra sugar-pines and fir-woods lives the largest of these +"scratchers," the brown grouse. He is a shy creature, rising out of +his feeding-ground with a great whirring of wings and out of sight +before the hunter can fire at him. His peculiar cry, or "drumming," as +it is called, sounds through the woods like tapping hard on a hollow +log. His equally shy neighbor is the mountain-quail, while through +the farming lands and all along the hillsides the valley--quail are +plenty. Perhaps you have seen a happy family of these speckled brown +birds. Papa quail has a black crest on his head, and he calls "Look +right here" from the wrong side of the road to fool you, while Mamma +and her little, cunning chicks scatter like flying brown leaves in the +brush. After the danger is past, you hear her low call to bring them +round her again. In the desert and sage-brush part of the state the +sage-hen, another "scratcher," runs swiftly through the thickets, but +many are caught and brought in by the Indians. + +Our birds of prey are eagles, vultures, hawks, owls, and the +turkey-buzzards, those big black scavengers that hang in the air. In +circles high above woods and fields some of these birds of prey sweep +on broad wings, searching with keen sight for their food in some dead +animal far below. The California condor, a great black vulture-like +bird, is almost extinct, and is only found in the highest mountains. +It is very large of wing, and strong enough, it is said, to carry off +a sheep. Both golden and bald eagles nest in tall trees in the wildest +parts of the state. The chicken-hawk, whose swift sailing over the +poultry-yard calls out loud squawking from the frightened hens, +you have often seen, and the wise-looking brown owls, too. A small +burrowing owl lives in the squirrel holes, and you may catch him +easily in the daytime, when he cannot see. + +The road-runner is of the cuckoo family of birds. It seldom flies, but +runs swiftly along the roads, or in the desert, and is said to kill +rattlesnakes by placing a ring of thorny cactus leaves around the +snake as it lies asleep. The rattler is then pecked to death, since it +cannot get out of its prickly cage. This fowl is like a slender brown +hen in size. + +In the redwoods you hear the tap, tap, of the "carpenter" woodpecker, +with his black coat and gay red cap. He drills holes in the bark of a +tree with his strong beak and then fits an acorn neatly into each safe +little storehouse. It is thought that worms and grubs fatten while +living in these acorns, so that the woodpecker always has a meal ready +in the winter when the ground is wet, or the squirrels have carried +off the acorns under the trees. + +Humming-birds, or "hummers," as the boys call them, are plenty in city +and country and so fearless that they will take a bath in the spray +of the garden-hose, or dart their long bills in the fuchsias almost +within your reach. The bill shields a double tongue, which gets not +only honey, but small insects from the flower or off the leaves. The +humming-bird's tiny nest is a soft, round basket, not much bigger than +half a walnut-shell, and holding two eggs, which are like small-white +beans. Bits of moss and gray cobwebs are woven in this nest till it +looks like the branch itself; and here the little mother in her plain +brown dress hatches out and feeds the baby "hummers." Her husband has +glistening ruby feathers at his throat and green spots on his head and +back that glow in the sun like jewels. + +The highest class of birds is the "perchers," and many friends of +yours belong to this. There are two families, however, of perchers, +those that call and the song-birds. Calling over and over their +peculiar note, the pewees, flycatchers, and king-birds, fly through +the forests. The crow and blue jay belong to the singers, you will +be surprised to hear. And what a crowd of these song-birds there +are trilling and warbling in the sunshine! Have you ever watched the +meadow-lark singing as he sits on guard on the fence, while the rest +of his brown-coated yellow-vested flock run along the field picking up +seeds and insects? + +Then there are the linnets, or "redheads," who sing their sweet, +merry tunes all summer, and if they do take a cherry or two the farmer +should not grumble. They destroy many bugs and caterpillars and eat +weed-seeds that might trouble the fruit-grower more than the missing +cherries. The yellow warbler, sometimes called the wild canary, flits +through bush and tree and trills its gay notes in town and country. +Song-sparrows, thrushes, and bluebirds warble far and near, while the +red-winged blackbird makes music in wet, swampy places. The robin, +who comes to city gardens in the winter, has a summer home in the +mountains or redwoods. There, too, the saucy jay screams and chatters, +and flashes his blue wings as he flies, scolding all the time. + +In Southern California, among the orange groves or in gardens, the +mocking-bird trills in sweet, liquid notes his wonderful song. He +mimics, too, many sounds he hears, and sometimes when caged will +whistle tunes or say words. The mocker can crow or cackle like the +chickens, or mew like the cat. Then he will whistle clear and loud +till dogs or boys answer his call. When they find themselves fooled, +it is said, he mimics a laugh. + +From April to July the birds are busy, nesting, feeding their +families, or teaching them to fly. Many eggs never hatch, and some +are destroyed by wild animals. Boys often rob a whole nest to have one +little blown egg in their collections. Then again the mother is killed +and her brood starves to death. When the parent birds are teaching the +nestlings to fly, cats also catch the little ones. So you see the poor +feathered things have many enemies. + +Let us try to protect the birds, and to let them live happy lives +in freedom. Each one will thank you, either with sweet songs or with +being a beautiful thing to see on land or ocean. + +[Illustration: YOUNG TOWHEE.] + +[Illustration: BABY YELLOW WARBLERS. From photographs by Elizabeth +Grinnell.] + + + + +OUR WILD ANIMALS + + +Once upon a time, when the Spanish owned this state and called it +their province of Alta California, there were great herds of antelope +feeding on the grassy plains, and at every little stream elk and deer +and big grizzly bears came down to drink. No fences had been built, +and the wild animals had never heard a rifle-shot. Free and fearless +they ranged valley and hillside, or made their dens in the thick +brush, or "chaparral," as the Spanish called it. + +Indian hunters watched the paths over which these wild creatures +travelled to water, and killed deer and antelope with their arrows. +But these hunters were afraid of grizzly bears, for an arrow in Mr. +Bear's thick hide only made him cross, and with one hug, or even a +light blow from his paw, he could cripple the poor Indian. So in those +early days the old bears came year after year, and carried off sheep +and cattle. The simple folks did not even try to kill them. Indeed, +many of the red men believed that very bad Indians were punished by +being turned into grizzly bears when they died, and they would not +hurt their brothers, they said. + +When Father Serra's Mission people were starving at Monterey, the +Padre learned that at a place called Bear Valley near by, there were +many grizzlies which the Indians would not kill. He sent Spanish +soldiers there, and they shot so many bears that the hungry Mission +family had meat enough to last till a ship came from Mexico with +supplies. + +Of all flesh-eating animals this grizzly bear is the largest and +strongest. He can knock down a bull with his great paws, or kill and +carry off a horse. He can live on wild berries and acorns with grass +and roots he digs out of the ground, yet fresh meat suits him best, +and he prefers a calf, which he holds as a cat does a mouse. + +Nothing but stock was raised in California in those days so long +ago, and cattle were counted by the thousands and sheep by tens of +thousands. Then the grizzly and cinnamon, or brown, bear feasted all +the time on stray calves and yearlings. Every spring and fall the +cattle, which had roamed almost wild in the pastures, were "rounded +up" by the cowboys, or vaqueros. After the work of picking out each +ranchero's stock and branding the young cattle was over, the vaqueros +thought it fine fun to lasso a bear,--some old fellow, perhaps, +who had been helping himself to the calves. It is told that one big +cinnamon bear, while quietly feeding on acorns, looked up to find +three or four cow-boys on their ponies in a circle around him. They +spurred the trembling ponies as close to him as they dared, and yelled +at the tops of their voices. The great brute sat up on his haunches +and faced them, growling and snarling. One vaquero sent his rope +flying through the air, and the loop settled over a big, hairy fore +paw. Then the bear dropped on all fours and made a jump at the pony, +which got out of his reach. Another Mexican threw a lasso and caught +the bear's hind foot; and as he sat up again a third noose dropped +over the other fore paw. Then the poor trapped creature, growling, +snarling, and rolling over and over, began a tug of war with the +lariats and the ponies. Once a rope broke, and horse and rider tumbled +in front of the bear. He made a quick, savage jump, but was pulled +back by the other ropes. Then Mr. Bear sat up straight and tugged so +hard that another lariat broke and sent the saddle and rider over the +pony's head. With one sweep of his paw the bear smashed the saddle, +but the cow-boy saved himself by running to an oak tree. At last Mr. +Bear was getting the best of the fight so plainly, and had pulled the +frightened ponies so near him, that the man who was thrown off ended +the poor animal's struggles with a rifle-ball. + +A Chinese sheep-herder tells this funny story about a bear: "Me lun +out, see what matta; me see sheep all bely much scared, bely much lun, +bely much jump. Big black bear jump over fence, come light for me. Me +so flighten me know nothin', then me scleam e-e-e-e so loud, and lun +at bear till bear get scared too and lun away." + +A few grizzlies are still found in the Sierras, and black and brown +bears are often seen with their playful little cubs. The small +fellows are easily tamed and may be taught many tricks. They will live +contentedly in a bear-pit, or even if chained up, and as most of you +know, they like peanuts and pop-corn well enough to beg for them. + +The panther, or mountain-lion, is another large flesh-eating animal +which makes his home in the thick woods conveniently neighboring the +farmers' corrals and pastures. Not long ago a boy in Marin County, +who was sent to look after some ponies, saw a big yellow dog, as he +thought, "worrying" one of the colts. When he came nearer he found +it was a wicked-looking, catlike creature, and knew it must be a +California lion. He had nothing with him but a heavy whip. The panther +left the wounded colt and crouched ready to spring at the boy, but he +was on the alert and struck it a terrible blow across the eyes with +his whip, and then another and another. Half-blinded and whining with +pain, the panther turned tail and ran away, while the boy's pony, +trembling and snorting with fright, galloped home with his brave +rider. + +In one of the mountain counties a woman, hearing her chickens +squawking one day at noon, ran out to find what seemed a big dog among +them with a hen in his mouth. She rushed straight at him with a broom, +when the animal turned. She found it was a great panther, who snarled +and made ready to spring at her. As she screamed and started to run +away, her foot slipped on a steep and muddy place, and she slid down +the little hill right into the panther's face. He was so frightened +that he jumped the fence and hurried to the woods. + +This great yellow cat is both savage and cowardly, and he has been +known to follow a man walking through the woods, all day, yet he +sneaked out of sight at every loud call the man gave. He chases deer +and gets many small and helpless fawns, hunters say. + +Fur-hunting was once a profitable business for the Indians, who were +clothed in bear and panther skins when the first white men came to +California, and had many furs to trade or sell. The Indians trapped +otters, beavers, and minks, and the squaws tanned the deer-hides to +make buckskin shirts or leggings. Hunters and trappers still bring in +these wild animals' furry coats after trips to the high mountains or +untravelled woods, where the shy creatures try to live and be safe +from their enemies. + +In early days herds of a very large deer, called elk, fed on the wild +oats and grass. These elk had wide, branching horns measuring three +or four feet from tip to tip. Only a few of them now survive in the +redwood forests in the northern counties. There were plenty of them +once where San Francisco now stands. Dana in his book called "Two +Years Before the Mast," tells us that when his ship dropped anchor off +the little village of Yerba Buena about sixty-seven years ago, he saw +hundreds of red deer and elk with their branching antlers. They were +running about on the hills, or standing still to look at the ship +until the noise frightened them off. At that time the whole country +was covered with thick trees and bushes where the wolf and coyote +prowled, and the grizzly bear's track was seen everywhere. + +[Illustration: CALIFORNIA RED DEER. From a photograph by George V. +Robinson.] + +There are plenty of deer in the redwoods now, and in the high +Sierras are black-tailed and large mule-deer. In the woods round Mount +Tamalpais timid red deer live, too. In winter, when it is cold and +snowy in the northern counties of our state, these deer often come +into the farmer's barnyard to nibble at the hay. + +There are still left in the mountains among the pines and snowy cliffs +many mountain-sheep. These curious big-horned animals resemble both +the elk and the sheep, and it is said they can jump from a high rock +and land far below on their feet or heavy, twisted horns without being +hurt in the least. + +Of all the great herds of graceful, fast-running antelope, once the +most plentiful of our wild animals, only a very few can now be found +on the eastern slopes of the Sierras. + +But Master Coyote, who might well be spared, so cruel and cowardly is +he, still sneaks up and down the whole state, and his quick sharp bark +gives notice that the rascal is ready to steal a chicken or a lamb if +it is not protected. With his bushy tail and large head he is half fox +and half wolf in appearance, and mean enough in habits to be both. He +can outrun a dog and even a deer, and though he catches jack-rabbits +and the Molly Cottontail usually for food, he would help his brother, +the wolf, to kill a poor harmless sheep. + +This gray wolf is a savage creature and hides in the thick forests by +day, slinking out at night to the nearest sheep corral or turkey-pen +if he can find one unwatched by some faithful dog. His friend and +neighbor, the fox, likes fat geese and chickens as well as birds, +squirrels, and wood-rats. The queer raccoon lives in the redwoods and +is often caught and kept in a cage or chained for a pet. + +Wildcats, both gray and yellow, are found in the thickly timbered +parts of California, and the badger makes his home in the mountain +cañons or pine woods. There, too, the curious porcupine dwells. He is +covered with grayish white quills, which bristle out when he is angry +or frightened. No old dog will touch this animal, for he knows better +than to get a mouthful of sharp toothpicks by biting Mr. Porcupine, +who is like a round pincushion with the pins pointing out. A dog who +has never seen this prickly ball will dab at it, and have a sore paw +to nurse for weeks after. + +Two or three kinds of tree-squirrels live in the pines and redwoods, +the Douglas squirrel being well known in the mountains. The ground +squirrel, or chipmunk, digs holes in the ground, where he hides his +winter's store of grain and nuts. + +Three of our smaller wild animals are very common and very troublesome +to the farmer. The skunk, which looks like a pretty black and white +kitten with a bushy tail, and also the weasel, destroy all the +chickens and eggs they can reach, and they are so cunning that it is +hard to keep them out of the hen-house. That little pest, the gopher, +we are all well acquainted with, since he gnaws the pinks and roses +off at their roots in your city garden while his large family of +brothers and sisters kill the farmer's fruit-trees and vines. The +gopher digs long tunnels under ground, making storerooms here and +there in these passages, which he fills with grass, roots, and seeds. +In each cheek he has a pouch, or pocket, large enough to hold nearly a +handful of grain, so the little rascal carries his stores very easily. +The traps and poison by which the farmer is always trying to make way +with him, he is sly enough to let alone. His greatest foe is the +cat, which watches patiently at the hole where the destructive little +fellow is digging and usually catches him. A mother cat will sometimes +bring in two or three gophers a day to her kittens. + + + + +IN SALT WATER AND FRESH + + +Tom and Retta Ransom were two of the happiest children in the state, +I believe, when told that their summer vacation was to be spent at +Catalina Island. To see the wonderful fish that swim in those warm, +Southern waters, to watch them through the glass-bottomed boat, to +dip out funny sea-flowers with a net, or catch the pretty kingfish and +perhaps a "yellowtail,"--why, they could talk of nothing else! + +How they skipped and danced and chattered about the trip! At +last Mamma said, "Well, everything is packed and ready, and we go +to-morrow." Then what fun it was to stand on the steamer's deck and +sail "right out through the Golden Gate," as Retta said. The big +green billows of the Pacific Ocean caught the boat as she crossed the +outside bar and tossed salt spray almost into their faces. Little the +children cared for the drops of water, for they were so glad to be +off on their trip and to say good-by to San Francisco's summer fog and +cold winds for a time. + +And there on Seal Rocks, near the Cliff House, were the seals, or +rather sea-lions, clumsy creatures like black rubber sacks with +fins, or flippers, and a head. Some were lying in the sun and others +crawling up the steep, wet rocks. Those highest up were asleep and +quiet, but most of them kept barking or growling as they tried to find +a sunny place to bask in. Sometimes when frightened these sea-lions +will pitch headlong from high rocks into the ocean and dive out of +sight at once. Mrs. Ransom said she remembered seeing one that was +kept for years in a salt-water tank, and that, although they seem so +clumsy, this sea-lion jumped so quick that he caught a fish thrown to +him before it touched the water. Once fur-seals were in great numbers +off our coast, and lived on the rocks as these sea-lions now do. But +Indians, or later on white hunters, killed them, or drove them up +north where the crack of the rifle is not heard. + +On to the south the steamer sailed through the foaming waters, and as +Tom stood watching the white-capped waves go dancing by, he saw, two +or three times, a black fin come up, and then another. At last a man +said, "Look at the porpoises playing." Tom screamed with delight as +they jumped and chased each other till their black, shiny backs were +clear out of water. These fish are sometimes called sea-hogs and are +five or six feet long. Either to get their food of small fish, or in +play, they keep swimming and diving near the tops of the breakers. +Fishermen catch them with a strong hook and use the thick, leathery +skin for straps or strings, while they try oil out of their blubber or +fat. + +All that day and night the boat kept steadily on her way, and the next +morning they were in Santa Barbara Channel. It was so pleasant sailing +on this summer sea in the soft, warm sunshine that even the sea-sick +ladies felt better and came on deck. Mamma agreed with the children +that the steamer trip was much nicer than the hot, dusty cars. Just +then some one called, "See the whale," and looking quick Tom and Retta +saw what seemed a fountain of water rising high in the air about half +a mile away. Soon another went up, and two or three more, for the +gray hump-backed whales like this stretch of smooth bay. They are +warm-blooded animals and not fish at all, so they must come to the top +of the waves for air to breathe. The air and water spout out through +"blow-holes" on top of the whale's head, and rise like steam in the +colder air. The children's mother told them that the whale is the +largest of all animals, and that it lives on little jellyfish. It swims +with its great mouth wide open and catches all the tiny sea creatures +in its path. A fringe of whalebone hangs down from the roof of the +whale's mouth, and he strains the water out through this and swallows +the fish. As the boat went on, the children said, "There she blows," +as the sailors do when they see whales spouting in the distance. + +[Illustration: LEAPING TUNA.] + +[Illustration: BLACK SEA BASS.] + +Late that night the steamer got to San Pedro, and you may be sure Tom +and Retta were up early the next morning. As they came off the +boat, there was a crowd of people on the wharf who were pulling in +"yellow-tail" as fast as they dropped their lines. This fine fish is +a little like a big salmon, but with golden-yellow fins and tail. Its +body is greenish gray, with spots of the prettiest rainbow colors, +which grow brighter as the fish dies. These fish bite easily, but as +soon as caught begin to rush back and forth, fighting and trying to +snap the line. + +The children here took a smaller steamer for the twenty-mile trip +across to Catalina Island, and on the way over they saw a whole +"school" of whales and a flight of flying-fishes. Yes, really and +truly, these little fish fly or sail through the air, for their fins +balance them like a parachute. They skim along ten or twelve feet +above the waves, and then drop in the water to rest, taking another +flight whenever their enemies, the porpoises, chase them. + +How happy the children were to land at the little town of Avalon, and +to know that they were to have a month at this beautiful place! They +hurried down to the beach and their first choice of amusements was the +glass-bottomed boat. These boats have "water-telescopes," which are +only clear glass set in boxed-in places. The glass seems to make the +ripples still, so that you can look down, down to the bottom of the +ocean, twenty or thirty feet below you. + +The boatman rowed the children out in the bay, where the water, now +green, now blue, was always clear as crystal. On the rocks and sand +at the bottom starfish and crabs crawled slowly along or clung to some +stone. The purple sea-urchins, queer round-shelled creatures covered +with thorny spines, crowded together, and the ugly toad-fish hid +in the green and brown seaweeds. Blue, purple, and rainbow-colored +jellyfish floated on top of the waters, while gold perch with red +and green sunfish swam through the seaweed "like parrots in some hot +country's woods," Retta thought. In the shallow places on the rocks +those curious sea-flowers, the anemones, looked like pink or green +cactus blossoms. The children never tired of the water-telescope in +all their stay at the island. + +At night the warm ocean waters seemed on fire, since they are full +of very tiny, soft-bodied creatures, each of which gives out a faint, +glowing light. Every day the fishermen brought in new and strange +fishes. The black sea-bass, heavier than the fisherman himself and +longer than he was tall, were wonderful, and they could hardly believe +that such big fish were caught with a rod and line. + +But the leaping tuna pleased Tom the most, since he thought it such +fun to watch them jump into the air like silver arrows after the +flying-fish. Not so large as the black bass, the tunas are strong +enough to tow a boat along when running with a hook. One will drag a +heavy launch through the water as if a tug had hold of it, and +will fight for hours, rushing and plunging till tired out. Then the +fisherman pulls him up to the boat and ends his struggles. + +Tom and Retta were fond of watching the curious fish and sea-plants +in the glass aquarium tanks on shore also, but their happiest time was +when they gathered shells on the beach. They never found out the names +of more than those of the limpet, turban, and scallop, though they +picked up baskets full of tiny pink and white beauties, all frail and +of many kinds. These shells were once the homes of sea mollusks, +as such soft, fleshy creatures are called. But to Tom and Retta the +shells were only pretty playthings, to be doll's dishes, or cups, or +pincushions, perhaps. + +One morning some fishermen saw a shark, and no one dared to go in +bathing for a few days. This great, savage, "man-eater" shark does not +often come north of the Gulf of California. Sometimes small ones are +caught with a hook and line off Catalina Island, and Tom was always +glad to see such sea-tigers destroyed. + +Of course the children did not want to go home, till at last Mrs. +Ransom explained to them that in the ocean and bay near San Francisco +there were odd fish and strange animals too. And so it turned out, for +in a day's fishing over at Sausalito Tom caught many silver smelt and +tomcod, with flat, ugly flounders, and a red, big-eyed rock-cod. The +frightened boy almost fell out of the boat, too, when he pulled in a +large sting-ray, or "stingaree," as the boatman called it. This queer +three-sided fish, with a sharp, bony sting in its back, flopped round +till the man cut the hook out, knocked its head till it was no longer +able to bite, and threw it overboard. These rays have to be fenced out +of the oyster-beds along the bay, since they have big mouths full +of such strong teeth that they crush an oyster, shell and all, and +destroy every one they can reach. + +Oysters are grown in great quantities in the oyster-beds along the bay +shore. The largest size, which are called "transplanted," are brought +from the East as very small or baby oysters and dropped into shallow +water, where they cling to rocks or brush-piles till grown. + +Tom also caught a perch, and clinging to it as he drew in his line +was a large, hard-shelled, long-clawed crab. Tom put the crab in the +basket, knowing well what delicious white meat was in the fellow's +legs and back. + +Clams that burrow deep in the mud and may be found at low tide, +by digging where their tell-tale bubble of air arises, and the odd +shrimps, so good to eat, the children already knew about. Chinese +fishermen catch shrimps in nets, dry them on the hillsides, and send +both dry meat and shells to China. They dry the meat of the abalone +also, and use the beautiful shells, which you have no doubt seen, for +carving into curios, or making into jewellery. + +A salt-water creature very destructive to shipping and the wharves is +the teredo, or ship-worm. This brown inch-long worm lives in wood +that is always under water, such as the bottoms of ships and the round +piles you see at the wharves. He hollows or bores out winding tunnels +in the wood with the sharp edge of his shell until the piles crumble +to pieces. This small animal would finally destroy the largest wooden +ship if sheets of copper were not put on the sides and keel to protect +it. + +When Retta saw Tom's basket of fish she said, "Well, I think the +fresh-water fishes much prettier. I am sure the rainbow and Dolly +Varden trout with their bright-colored spots, which we saw up in the +Truckee River and the mountain lakes last summer, were better to look +at and to eat than these sea monsters." Tom laughed and said, "Oh, +that was because you helped to catch some of those. Do you remember +the big black-spotted trout we saw in Lake Tahoe? And the little +speckled fellows we caught in that clear creek in the redwoods, and +how we wrapped them in wet paper and cooked them at our camp-fire? +I wish we could go up to the McCloud River, though, and see the baby +trout in the fish hatchery there." + +So their mother told them that the tiny trout eggs were kept in +troughs with clear, cold water running over them till they hatched +out. Then the little things, not half as long as a pin, were placed in +large tin cans and sent to stock brooks and lakes, and in a year or so +they grew big enough to catch. + +The most valuable of our food-fishes is the salmon, a large +silvery-sided salt-water fish that takes fresh-water journeys too. +For they swim up the rivers every year to lay their eggs in the clear, +cold streams, knowing, perhaps, that the salmon-fry, as the young are +called, will have fewer enemies away from the ocean. The salmon go +over a hundred miles up to the McCloud River to spawn, and will jump +or leap up small falls or rapids in their way. Indians spear many of +them, but a number go back to the ocean again. Thousands and thousands +of ocean salmon are caught along the northern coast and taken to +the canneries. There the fish are put into cans and cooked, and when +sealed up are sent all over the world. California salmon is eaten from +Iceland to India, and its preparation and sale give employment to many +people. + +[Illustration: HUMPBACK WHALE (57 feet long).] + +[Illustration: TROUT FROM LAKE TAHOE.] + + + + +ABOUT CALIFORNIA'S INDIANS + + +When the Spanish and English first landed on this part of the New +World's coast, they found the Indians who dwelt inland almost naked, +and living like wild animals on roots and seeds and acorns. The tribes +along the seashore, however, were good hunters and fishermen, and +those Indians along the Santa Barbara Channel and the islands near +by were a tall, fine-looking people, and the most intelligent of the +race. They had large houses and canoes, and clothed themselves in +sealskins. + +The Indians Drake saw near Point Reyes had fur coats, or cloaks, but +no other clothes. They brought him presents of shell money or wampum, +and of feather head-dresses and baskets. With their bows and arrows +they killed fish or deer or squirrels, and being very strong ran +swiftly after game. They seemed gentle and peaceable with the white +men and each other, and were sorry to have Drake sail away. + +In later years the Indians who lived here when the Mission Padres came +were stupid and brutish, because they knew nothing better. They were +lazy, dirty, and at first would not work. But the patient Padres +taught them to raise grain and fruit, to build their fine churches, +to weave cloth and blankets, and to tan leather for shoes, saddles, +or harness. But although the Indians learned to be good workmen, +they liked idleness, dancing, and feasting much better, and when the +Missions were given up the Indians soon went back to their former +habits. + +There were no distinct tribes among these Indians, and they had no +laws. Nor was there a king or chief over many natives. They lived +in small villages or rancherias, each having a name and ruled by a +captain. Each rancheria had its special place to hunt or fish, and had +to fight its own battles with the other families of Indians. + +The men did nothing but hunt and fish, or make bows, stone +arrow-heads, nets and traps for game. The women not only had to gather +grass seeds, acorns, and nuts or berries, but they had to do all the +field-work and carry the heavy burdens, usually with a baby strapped +in its basket above the load. In preparing food for cooking, these +mahalas, or squaws, put seed or acorns in a stone mortar and pounded +them to coarse meal or paste. Sometimes a grass-woven basket was +filled with water, and hot stones were thrown in till the water began +to boil. Then acorn or seed meal was put in and cooked into mush. This +meal, or that from wild oats, was also mixed into a dough and baked on +hot stones into bread. Game or fish was eaten raw, or broiled a little +on the coals of the camp-fire. + +The Indians got many deer, and one way of hunting them was to put the +head and hide of a deer over the hunter's head. The make-believe then +crept along in the high grass till near enough to the quietly feeding +animals to put an arrow through one or more. All the streams were +full of fish then, and salmon swarmed in rivers that ran to the ocean. +These salmon the Indians speared or shot with arrows. They also built +runways or fish-weirs and made them so that the fish would become +crowded into a narrow passage, and could easily be dipped out with +nets or baskets. + +When the Americans came here they called these Indians "Diggers," +because they lived on what they could dig or root out of the ground. +They were very fond of grasshoppers, and ate them either dried or +raw, or made into a soup with acorn or nut-meal. Fat grubworms and +the flesh of any animal found dead was a great treat. If a whale or +sea-lion was washed ashore on the beach, the Indians gathered round it +for a feast, and soon left only the bones. + +[Illustration: INDIAN WOMAN WITH PAPPOOSE.] + +[Illustration: INDIAN WOMAN WITH BASKETS.] + +But they had no idea of saving food, so they fattened when there was +plenty, and starved when dry years made the acorns or nuts scarce. +Having no salt, they did not try to dry or smoke the meat of deer or +other wild animals. Nor did they at first lay up nuts and seeds, as +even the squirrels or woodpeckers do, for winter use. But wandering +from place to place, they camped in the summer along the rivers, where +fish was plenty and the wild oats gave them grain. In the fall they +hunted pine-nuts and berries in the mountains, till snow drove them +down into the valleys. + +Each Indian town, or rancheria, had a name, and many of these names +are still in use. At the north lived the Klamaths, Siskiyous, Shastas, +and the savage Modocs, whose months of fighting in the lava beds +caused the death of General Canby and many soldiers. The Porno tribes +of Lake county, Yrekas, Hoopas, and Ukiahs, are well known at the +present day. Tehama, Colusa, Tuolumne, Yosemite, and other places +recall the Indians who gave each its name. The San Diego Indians are +still known as Diegueños and live on a reserve, or lands set aside for +them. + +Almost all the natives had Indian money, called wampum, which they +made from abalone or clam-shells by cutting out round pieces like +buttons or small, hollow beads. Little shells were also used, and the +wampum was strung on grass or on deer sinews. The Pomos still make +thousands of pieces of this money, and so many strings of it will buy +whatever the buck, or Indian man, and his mahala, or squaw, wish to +get. + +General Bidwell, who came to California in 1841 and surveyed the land +for many ranches, says of the Indians at that time:-- + +"They were almost as wild as deer, and wore no clothes at all except +the women, who had tule aprons fastened to a belt round their waists. +In the rough work of surveying among brush and briars I gave the men +shoes, pantaloons, and shirts, which they would take off when work +was done, carry home in their hands, and put on in time to go to work +again. But they soon learned to sleep in their new things to save +trouble, and would wear them day and night till a suit dropped to +pieces. They were quick to do as the whites did, and when paid in +calico and cloth Saturday night, by Monday they had on their new +skirts or shirts all made up like ours. Yet every Indian would choose +beads for his wages, and go almost naked and hungry till the next +pay-day." + +General Bidwell treated the Indians honestly and kindly, and in return +they were his friends and helped him much to his advantage. In 1847 he +settled on the great Rancho Chico, and part of his land he gave to the +Mechoopdas, as the Indian rancheria there was called. They worked to +plant orchards and at all his farm-work, and he treated them so fairly +that old men are still living on this ranch who as boys helped the +general in his tree-planting and road-building. A whole village of +these Mechoopdas live on the Bidwell place owning their houses, while +Mrs. Bidwell is their best friend and helps them in sickness and +trouble. The men work in the hop fields and fruit orchards, and the +women make baskets. + +All the California Indians are basket-makers, and their work is so +well done and so beautiful that it is much prized. The Pomos of Lake +and Mendocino counties make especially fine baskets for every purpose. +Indeed, the Indian papoose, or baby, is cradled in a basket on his +mother's back; he drinks and eats from cup or bowl-shaped baskets, and +the whole family sleep under a great wicker tent basket thatched +with grass or tules. All Pomo baskets are woven on a frame of willow +shoots, and in and out through this the mahala draws tough grasses or +fine tree roots dyed in different colors, and after the pattern she +chooses. Sometimes she works into the baskets the quail's crest, small +red or yellow feathers from the woodpecker, green from the head of the +mallard duck, or beads. She also hangs wampum or bits of abalone shell +on the finest ones. The storage baskets are four or five feet high to +hold grain or acorns, and the baskets to fit the back and carry a +load are like half a cone in shape, with straps to hold the burden +in place. Their smaller berry baskets hold just a quart. Some are +water-tight and are used to cook mush in. Fish-traps and long narrow +basket-traps for quail are also made out of this willow-work. + +On the Bidwell ranch is an old Indian "temescal," or sweat-house. It +is an underground hut, or cave dug out of a hillside, with a hole in +the top for smoke to reach the air. The Indians used to build a big +fire in this cave and then lie round it till dripping with sweat. A +cold plunge into the creek near by finished the bath,--Turkish, we +call it. Nowadays the Indians use this place for a meeting-room and +for dances. + +The older Indians still dance and rig out in all their finery of +feathers and beads, though the young people are ashamed of their +tribal customs and wish to be like the white folks. Some of their +dances are named for a bird or animal, and the Indians must imitate by +their dress and cries the animal chosen. In the bear dance the dancer +crawls about the fire on all fours with a bear's skin about him. He +wears a chain of oak-balls round his neck, and as he shakes his head +these rattle like a bear's teeth snapping shut, while all the time he +growls savagely. The feather-dancer, with a skirt and cap of eagles' +feathers, will whirl on his toes like a top for hours, while the other +Indians sing and the master of the dance shakes a large rattle. + +The California Indians are slowly passing away, and though all over +the state there are still rancherias, the land that was once their +very own will soon know them no more. + + + + +THE STORY OF SAN FRANCISCO + + +The Mission and Presidio of San Francisco were founded in 1776 by +Father Palou, and two little settlements grew up around the fort and +at the church. The Presidio was built where it is now, and ships used +to anchor in the bay in front of it, though the whalers usually went +to Sausalito to get wood from the hills and to fill their water-casks +at a large spring. From early Mission times the Spanish name of Yerba +Buena was given to that part of San Francisco's peninsula between +Black Point and Rincon Point. Ship-captains and sailors soon found out +that the cove or bay east of Yerba Buena was the best and least windy +place to anchor their vessels, and later on hundreds of ships found +a safe harbor there. The name Yerba Buena, or good herb, was given +on account of a little creeping vine with sweet-smelling leaves which +covered the ground and is still found on the sand-dunes and Presidio +hills. + +For many years the small settlements made no progress, and the rest +of the peninsula was covered with thick woods, where the grizzly bear, +wolf, and coyote roamed, while deer were plenty at the Presidio. Then +in 1835 Governor Figueroa, the Mexican ruler of California, directed +that a new town should be started at Yerba Buena cove. The first +street, called the "foundation-street," was laid out from Pine and +Kearny streets, as they are called to-day, to North Beach. The first +house was built by Captain Richardson on what is now Dupont Street, +between Clay and Washington. The next year a trader named Jacob Leese +built a store. It was finished on the Fourth of July, and in honor of +the day he gave a feast and a fandango, or dance, at which the company +danced that night and all the next day. This was the first Fourth +celebrated in the place. + +Two or three years later a new survey laid out streets between +Broadway and California, Montgomery and Powell. A fresh-water lagoon, +or lake, was near the present corner of Montgomery and Sacramento, +and an Indian temescal, or sweat-house, beside it. The bay came up +to Montgomery Street then, with five feet of water at Sansome, and +mudflats to the east. During the gold excitement of '49, when hundreds +of ships dropped anchor in the bay, many sailors deserted to go to the +mines, and some of the old vessels were hauled in on these mud-flats +and made into storehouses. All that part of the city east of +Montgomery Street is filled or made ground, and when new buildings are +to be started wooden piles or cement piers must go down to get a firm +foundation. + +Until 1846 only about thirty families lived at Yerba Buena. Then a +shipload of Mormon emigrants arrived and pitched their tents in the +sand-hills. Samuel Brannan, their leader, printed the first newspaper, +_The California Star_, in '47. That year also the first alcalde, or +mayor, of the new town, Lieutenant Bartlett, appointed an engineer +named O'Farrell to lay out more streets. He surveyed Market Street and +mapped down blocks as far west on the sand-dunes as Taylor Street and +to Rincon Point or South Beach. He gave the names of such well-known +men as Kearny, Stockton, Larkin, Guerrero, and Geary to these streets. +Mission Street was the road to the Mission Dolores, and about this +time Bartlett ordered that the Presidio, the Mission, and Yerba Buena +should be one town and should be called San Francisco. + +Then came the gold fever, and nearly every one left town to go to the +mines. Many people sold all they had to get money to buy mining tools +and food enough to live on till they struck gold. Men started for the +mines, leaving their houses and stores alone with no one to care for +goods or furniture. + +But news of the finding of gold had reached other places, and soon +ships from the Atlantic coast, Mexico, and all over the world +began sailing into San Francisco Bay. In '49 the first steamer, the +_California_, arrived from New York, and soon five thousand people +were in San Francisco, where most of the supplies for the gold-fields +had to be bought. Many of the newcomers lived in canvas tents or +brush-covered shanties scattered about in the high sand-hills or in +the thick chaparral. Some houses were built of adobe bricks, and the +two-story frame Parker House was thought to be so fine that it rented +for fifteen thousand dollars a month. Some wooden houses were brought +out from the East in numbered pieces, like children's blocks, to be +put together here, and others thought to be fireproof were of iron +plates made in the East. + +The first public school was opened in '48 and in the same building +church services were held Sundays. The first post-office was in a +store at the corner of Washington and Montgomery streets in '49. By +1850 the city had five square miles of land that had been cut down +from sand-hills or filled in on the mud-flats. The houses along the +city-front were built on piles, and the tide ebbed and flowed under +them. Long wharves for the unloading of ships ran out into deep water. +At Jackson and Battery streets a ship was used for a storehouse, and +after the earth was filled in this stranded vessel was left standing +among the houses. On Clay and Sansome streets the old hulk _Niantic_ +had a hotel upon her decks, and the first city prison was in the hold +of the brig _Euphemia_. + +[Illustration: INDIAN BASKETS.] + +While most of the miners were steady, hard-working men, honest, and +very kind and generous to each other, some drank and gambled their +hard-earned gold-dust away with a get of men who were ready to do any +wrong thing for money. The gamblers and bad characters grew so +troublesome by '51 that the police could do little or nothing with +them. Every day some one was robbed, or murdered, and thieves often +set fire to houses that they might plunder. As the judges and police +could not control these criminals, nearly two hundred good citizens +formed a "vigilance committee." It was agreed that bad characters +should be told to leave town, and that robbers and murderers should +be punished by the committee. Not long after, the vigilance committee +hanged four men, and roughs and law-breakers left town for the mines. +Men soon learned to keep the laws and do right. + +Since almost all the houses in San Francisco were light frames of wood +covered with cloth or paper, and since there was no fire department, +there were six great fires, each of which nearly burnt up the town. +The only way to stop the flames was to pull down houses or to blow +them up with gunpowder. But almost before the ashes of one fire had +cooled, wooden, cloth and paper buildings would cover whole blocks, to +be burned again before long. The fifth great fire, in '51, destroyed a +thousand houses and ten million dollars' worth of property in a night. +One warehouse containing many barrels of vinegar was saved by covering +the roof with blankets dipped in the vinegar, as no water could be +had. The iron houses that had been thought fire-proof were of no use. +Men who stayed in them found too late that the iron doors swelled with +the heat and could not be opened, so that those within were smothered +to death. + +Then people began to guard against such fires by building new houses +of stone or of brick. The sixth great fire destroyed most of the +wooden buildings in the business part of the city. After that, +with two or three fire companies and engines and better houses, +people no longer dreaded the fire-bell. Water was piped into the city +from Mountain Lake, and there was plenty for all purposes. + +[Illustration: SEAL ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO.] + +[Illustration: THE NEW CLIFF HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO.] + +So the city grew larger, until in '53 there were fifty thousand people +of all races and countries who called San Francisco home. Chinese and +Japanese, the Mexican, African, Pacific Islander, Greek, or Turk, or +Malay elbowed crowds of Americans, English, French, and Germans. It +was said that any foreigner could find in the city those who spoke his +language, and that gold was a word all knew. + +The largest yield of gold from the mines was in '53, and the next +year was a poor year for the miners. They bought fewer goods in San +Francisco, and the storekeepers found business falling off. Too many +houses had been built, so rents went down and times were hard for +a year or two. In '55 there were many bank failures, and business +troubles of all kinds made the people restless, and roughs and +murderers carried a strong hand. Then the "law and order party," as +the vigilance committee was at that time called, began once more +the task of punishing those who robbed or killed. A list of criminal +offenders was made out, and such were sent away from the state. +One excellent result of the vigilance committee's labors was that a +"people's party," as it was called, chose the best men to govern the +city, and for years after peace and order were in San Francisco. + +In '54 the city was lighted with gas for the first time, at a cost of +fifteen dollars a thousand feet. In that year also the mint began to +coin money from gold-dust, making five, ten and twenty-dollar pieces. +Lone Mountain Cemetery was laid out about this time, and the old Yerba +Buena graveyard, where the City Hall now stands, was closed. + +San Francisco had, for some years, trouble about titles to property, +owing to false or defective land-grants given by the Mexicans. Men +tried to take possession of lots they had no real claim to by building +a shanty on the ground and squatting there, and the "squatter troubles" +between such land thieves and the rightful owners caused lawsuits and +shooting affairs. A land commission finally settled these disputes, +throwing out all the false claims and giving titles to the proper +persons. + +[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO JAPANESE TEA GARDEN, SAN FRANSISCO.] + +The little village of Yerba Buena has now grown to be the largest +city on the Pacific coast and one that is known the world over. It is +widely and justly celebrated as the centre of great manufacturing +and shipping interests, for its fine buildings, its climate, and its +beautiful surroundings. San Francisco Bay, the harbor the Franciscans +named for their patron saint, is noted for its picturesque scenery. +Golden Gate Park, with its thousand acres of trees and lawn and +flowers stretching out to the Pacific Ocean, the famous Cliff House, +and the Golden Gate, through which so many Argonauts sailed into +California, are the most attractive and best known places. + + + + +MEN CALIFORNIA REMEMBERS + + +Many pages of this book might be filled with California's roll of +honor,--with that long list of men whose names are remembered whenever +the state's history is recalled. + +Explorers, Mission-builders, Argonauts, and pioneers were the men who +helped to make California the fair state you know and live in. From +the first day of the Spanish discoveries on this shore of the Pacific +Ocean, we find brave and great men who gave their best efforts, and +sometimes their lives, for California. + +Let us head our brief list with Cortes, the name-giver, who dreamed +long years of the golden land he was never to see. Then Cabrillo, the +sea-king whom San Diego people honor every year because he found their +bay and first set foot on California's ground. Next comes the bold +Englishman, Sir Admiral Francis Drake, who intended that his queen, +Elizabeth, should have this Indian kingdom, as he believed it to +be. The stone Prayer-book Cross, in Golden Gate Park, was put up to +commemorate the service of prayer and psalms, offered at Drake's Bay +by Fletcher, the minister on the Admiral's ship. + +Good Father Serra, the founder of the Missions, his friend +and brother-priest Father Palou of San Francisco, and their +fellow-laborers Crespi and Lasuen, helped in the work of building +churches and teaching the Indians. Governor Portola, the first Spanish +ruler of Alta California, assisted the Padres, and also found San +Francisco Bay. Lieutenant Ayala, however, sailed the first ship, the +_San Carlos_, through the Golden Gate. Another governor, de Neve, +founded San José and Los Angeles, and wrote a set of laws for the two +Californias of his time. That wise ruler, Governor Borica, ordered +schools opened and tried to get the Indians to farm their lands and to +raise hemp and flax. + +Many of the old Spanish settlers and explorers have left us their +names, though they are themselves forgotten, as Martinez, Amador, +Castro, Bodega, and countless others plainly show. The Englishmen +Livermore, Gilroy and Mark West, those early settlers, Temple and Rice +at Los Angeles, Yount and Pope of Napa Valley, Don Timoteo Murphy of +San Rafael, and Lassen the Dane, for whom Lassen's Peak was named, +were among those who came here before 1830. + +Governor Figueroa, called the "benefactor of Alta California" ordered +the Missions to be given up to the Indians. By directing that the +town of Yerba Buena should be laid out, he also is remembered as the +founder of San Francisco. Richardson, who carried out the governor's +orders, was the first settler and Leese built the first frame-house of +San Francisco. + +In Governor Alvarado's time many Americans came to the new country, +although Alvarado and General Vallejo tried hard to keep them out. +Vallejo was then the military commander, and had headquarters at +Sonoma, where he had an adobe fort and a few soldiers to protect the +Mission of Solano. Here General Vallejo was living with his Indian and +Californian settlers when the place was taken by Ide, the leader +of the "bear-flag party." Vallejo, set free when the short-lived +"bear-flag republic" went to pieces, lived many years at Sonoma. He +was afterwards a member of the first legislature. He tried hard in +1851 to have the state capital at Vallejo; but he failed, for he did +not keep his agreement to put up buildings for government use. + +A man well known in the early days was John Sutter, a Swiss, who built +a fort and settled where Sacramento now stands. He called his colony +New Helvetia, and soon had about three hundred Indians at work for +him. Some of the men were carpenters, blacksmiths, and farmers, while +the women wove blankets or a coarse cloth. His fort enclosed about an +acre of ground, with an adobe wall twenty feet high. A large gate was +shut every night to keep safe those inside this walled fort. You have +read that Marshall, who found gold, was building a sawmill for Sutter +when he picked up the precious yellow nuggets. Sutter and Marshall +quarrelled at last about the ownership of the mill at Coloma, where +the pieces of gold were picked up. Marshall died a poor man, unhappy +and neglected by the state, which has since put a costly bronze statue +over his grave. + +Sutter was very active in the Micheltorena war, when Governor +Micheltorena was defeated and put out of office by Alvarado and +Castro. + +The last of the Mexican governors, Pio Pico, tried his best to +prevent the rush of Americans into his country, but though Castro, +the military commander, helped him, the Americans came and stayed. And +both Pico and Castro with their soldiers were driven out of California +at last by Fremont and Stockton. + +General Fremont, the "path-finder," who could easily find the best way +through a wilderness and could make maps or roads for others to +follow him, is a striking figure in California history. He made three +exploring trips to this coast, Kit Carson, the famous hunter and +trapper, being his guide and scout. From the Oregon line to San Diego, +Fremont knew the country. He was a brave Indian fighter and helped to +capture California from Mexico. Fremont was appointed governor of the +new territory by Stockton, and was the first senator from California +representing the state in Congress. In 1848 Fremont sent a map of the +country to Congress, and on it named the strait at the entrance to +San Francisco Bay the Golden Gate. He was, therefore, the first to use +this beautiful name now known the world over. His wife, Jessie Benton +Fremont, is still living in Los Angeles. + +Commodore Sloat, who raised the American flag at Monterey, and +Commodore Stockton were United States naval officers who helped to +conquer the Mexican and Indian forces with the aid of Fremont and +General Kearny. These four men won the land of gold for the Union. + +General John Bidwell, another "path-finder," who in 1841 led the first +party of white men over the Sierras, lived to be over eighty years of +age. He saw the state, once a wilderness where naked Digger Indians +chased elk and antelope, grow to a pleasant land of orchards and +vineyards, of great cities full of people. General Bidwell was for a +time in Sutter's employ, and surveyed nearly all the large ranches +and the roads in early days. All his life he planted trees and built +roads, and at his great Rancho Chico is one of the largest orchards in +the state. Part of his life-work was to help a tribe of savage Indians +to be good American citizens, and as one of the fathers of California +he should always be remembered. + +Many notable names appear in the days when the finding of gold brought +this shore of the Pacific Ocean before the eyes of the world. Among +these are Gwin, who was chosen senator with Fremont; Larkin, widely +known as the first and last American Consul to California and for his +accounts of the gold discovery; and Halleck, first secretary of the +state and afterward General Halleck. + +The streets of San Francisco honor some of the citizens of 1848 and +1849: Geary, the first postmaster; Leavenworth and Hyde, the first +alcaldes or mayors; Van Ness, Broderick, Turk, and McAllister, +recalling prominent men of those days. Spanish families like Sanchez, +Castro, Noe, Bernal, and Guerrero had also a place on the city map. +Indeed, every town has some native Californian names in and around it. + +Don Victor Castro, said to be the first white child born in San +Francisco, died lately at San Pablo in the house he had built sixty +years ago. He was called the last of the Spanish grandees, those dons +who, before the Gringos came, had estates that stretched miles away +on every hand, and thousands of cattle with many Indian servants. Don +Victor built and ran the first ferry across San Francisco Bay. + +Sacramento was laid out as a town for Sutter by three lieutenants of +the U.S. army: Warner, who was afterwards killed by Indians; Ord, +who was a general in the Civil War, while the third, in after years +"marched through Georgia" as General Sherman. Marysville was also laid +out by Sutter, and Stockton by Weber, who owned all the land around +it. + +In 1849 Doctor Gregg and his party found Humboldt Bay. In 1851 +Yosemite Valley was discovered by Major Savage and a company of +soldiers, who were out hunting hostile Indians. This band of Indians +was called the Yosemites, and their old chief's name was Tenaya, for +whom the beautiful lake is named. + +Those who came to California before 1850 were called pioneers, and +many of them built up great fortunes. Among them were Coleman, the +president of the vigilance committee, Sharon, Flood, Fair, O'Brien, +Tevis, Phelan, and James Lick. Lick was a remarkable man, who gave +away an immense fortune; building the Lick Observatory, a school of +mechanical arts, free public baths, an old ladies' home, and giving +a million to the Academy of Science and the Society of California +Pioneers. + +In later days the names crowd thickly upon each other. Among editors +and literary men the fearless and ill-fated James King of the _Evening +Bulletin_, J. Ross Browne, the reporter of the first convention and a +most interesting writer, Derby the humorist, "Caxton" or W.H. Rhodes, +Mark Twain, Bret Harte, the historians Hittell and Bancroft, and the +poet Joaquin Miller may be noted. + +The governors of the state have been men remarkable as brilliant +speakers or lawyers and as wise rulers. In 1875, during the time of +Pacheco, the first native-born governor, the order of "Native Sons of +the Golden West" was formed, which now numbers over ten thousand young +California men. The "Native Daughters," a sister society, follows also +the idea of keeping the love of California warm in the hearts of her +children. + +[Illustration: FALLEN LEAF LAKE.] + +[Illustration: MOUNT SHASTA FROM STRAWBERRY VALLEY.] + + + + +OUR GLORIOUS CLIMATE + + +Not only a glorious but in many ways a wonderful climate is enjoyed +by the people of California's sea-coast and mountains, her valleys and +foot-hills. In no other state can one find so many kinds of weather +in such short distances. For instance, in Southern California you may +pick flowers and oranges in almost tropical gardens, and in an hour +find winter and throw snowballs on the high mountains overlooking the +roses and orange groves you so lately left. + +Only in the mountains, along that granite backbone of the state known +as the Sierra Nevadas, are there four seasons, the spring, summer, +autumn, and winter common to most of the United States. So the Sierras +have a distinct climate of their own. The Sacramento and San Joaquin +river valleys have another climate peculiar to themselves, while south +of latitude 35 degrees the coast has less rain and is warmer than the +coast counties north of that line. + +In the greater part of the state the year is divided into a dry summer +and a wet winter. The rains begin in October, and the first showers +fall on dry, brown hills and dusty fields baked hard by steady +sunshine since May. After these showers the grass springs up, and +the fields are green almost as quickly as if some fairy godmother had +waved her wand. An army of wild flowers, whose seeds were hidden in +the brown earth, wakes when the rain-drops patter, and the plants get +ready to bloom in a month or so. For this season, from November to +February, with little frost and no ice nor snow, is winter in name +only. Roses and violets bloom in the gardens and yellow poppies on the +hills. + +People expect and hope for much rain in this so-called winter, since a +wet year assures good crops to the state. But the amount of rain that +falls is very uncertain. It does not rain every day, nor all day, as a +rule, and each storm seems different. Sometimes a "southeaster" blows +up from the Japan Current, or Black Stream, as the Japanese call the +warm, dark-blue waters that pour out of the China Sea. This current of +the Pacific Ocean flows along our coast in a mighty river a thousand +miles wide, and gives California its peculiar climate of cool summers +and moist, warm winters. The southeasterly wind ruffles the bay with +white-capped waves and dashes sheets of rain against window and roof. +Then the wind changes, and all the clouds go flying to north or east, +while from the clear blue sky brilliant sunshine pours down to make +the grass and flowers grow. During the winter months the sun is strong +and warm enough to make out-door life delightful. + +The farmer depends greatly upon the rainfall. In a wet winter the +moisture sinks far into the ground, but not so deep that the thirsty +little roots cannot find it in the summer. Early rains are needed to +soften the ground for November ploughing, and young grain and crops of +all kinds need rain through April. In the northern part of the state +the wet season begins earlier and lasts longer than in the south, +while the southeastern corner is an almost rainless desert. + +In San Francisco the thermometer seldom falls below 45º in the winter, +the average for the season being 51º. Perhaps in January or February +the sidewalks may be white with frost in the mornings, or hail may +fall during some cold rain-storm. Once in five years or so, enough +snow falls to make children go wild with delight over a few snowballs +which are very soon melted. People can be comfortable the year round +without fires, and the clear, bright winter days with soft air and +warm sunshine are always pleasant enough to spend outdoors. This +ocean climate, due to the warm sea air, is enjoyed by the counties +facing the coast and San Francisco Bay. In the valleys of the interior +white frosts are frequent, and thin ice forms on the wayside puddles. +Once in a while killing frosts destroy fruit blossoms and cut down the +garden flowers and vegetables, but seldom do more damage. + +[Illustration: "EL CAPITAN" (3300 feet in height).] + +[Illustration: YOSEMITE FALLS.] + +In mountain regions, above five or six thousand feet, the very cold +winter lasts six or seven months. Snow falls almost constantly and +drifts to a great depth. Small lakes are frozen and buried in snow, +and the trees are bent and weighed down with ice and sleet. Many of +the wild animals come down to the foot-hills below the snow-line to +spend the winter; but the bear curls himself up in his warm cave and +sleeps through the cold months. In this snowy zone of the Sierras, +about thirty miles wide, winter lasts from the first snowfall, about +the end of October, to the late spring of June. Then July and August +are months of glorious weather, with clear, dry air and a cloudless +sky. During the day the temperature of about 80 degrees melts much +snow, and the rivers carry it away in rushing torrents and falls of +icy water. In September the frost turns the leaves of all but the +evergreen trees beautiful colors of red and yellow. Indian summer +comes during September and October, when the days are sunny and warm, +and then the long winter sets in again. Peaks above eight thousand +feet are snow-clad on their crests and along their sides by deep +drifts the year round. + +Along the Pacific coast in summer cool sea-winds, called trade-winds, +blow in from the ocean, and 60 degrees is the average temperature. The +farther you go inland from the coast, the hotter it gets, and the heat +is very great in the interior of the state. In the San Joaquin and +Sacramento valleys it is often over 100 degrees in the shade, though +this dry heat is not hard to bear, and the nights are always cool +enough for one to sleep in comfort. + +Summer fogs are usual in the coast counties. The mornings are pleasant +and sunny till about eleven o'clock. At this time the sun's rays +grow stronger in the interior valleys, and the hot air rises while +trade-winds rush in from the cold ocean and fog settles down like a +thick, gray cloud over the bay and hills. July and August are cold and +foggy along the coastline, with strong west winds almost every day. In +September the winds die away, and sometimes a shower or two falls. + +The rainless desert, or southeastern corner of our state, is the +hottest region of all. Here the sun glares down till sand and rocks +seem heated by a fiery furnace. Every living creature gasps and pants +for breath in the scorching heat. There are no trees, but only cactus, +that queer, prickly, thorny plant, often fifteen or twenty feet +high in these wastes of sand, and low greasewood bushes. Under this +vegetation snakes, lizards, and horned toads bask all day and search +for food at night. If travellers wander from the road in crossing the +desert, they are easily lost, and sometimes they die or go mad in the +terrible heat. There are no springs, and water stations are a long way +apart, so that lost people usually die of thirst. As the heat of the +sun's rays quivers over the burning sands, a curious sight called +a mirage is often produced. A cool, glassy lake or flowing river +bordered with green trees seems pictured in the air, and the hot and +weary traveller can scarcely believe that only sand and rocks are +before him. + +Can you tell which season you like the best? You will find the one you +choose in some part of this favored state. It is always summer in the +south, and you may slide on the ice or throw snowballs all year in the +high Sierras. + + + + +SOME WONDERFUL SIGHTS + + +California is a wonderland where snowy mountains, mighty and ancient +forests, glaciers and geysers, lakes and waterfalls, foaming rivers +and the cliffs and rolling surf down her long sea-coast give new and +beautiful pictures at every place. + +Through the whole state stretches the granite backbone of the Sierra +Nevadas with its highest crest or ridge at the head-waters of the +Kings and Kern rivers near Fresno. Here Mount Whitney and a dozen +other great peaks of the High Sierras or California Alps lift their +heads over thirteen thousand feet in the air. Here are to be seen most +magnificent panoramas of lofty peaks, deep cañons, towering domes, and +snow-clad summits. The finest forests, too, in the world grow on the +slopes of the Sierras, the immense pines and giant _sequoias_ of +the General Grant and other National Parks in this section being the +largest and oldest of all. Kings River Cañon is a rugged gorge half a +mile deep with the river rushing through it in thundering rapids and +cascades. + +The well-known Yosemite Valley is the gorge of the Merced River and, +though only eight miles long and half a mile wide, holds the grandest +of all our mountain scenery. The mighty rock El Capitan, over three +thousand feet in height, stands at the entrance to the valley, and +across from it is Bridal Veil Fall, a snowy cascade so thin you can +see the face of the mountain through the falling waters. There are +many waterfalls, but the Yosemite is chief of them all. Here the river +takes a plunge of sixteen hundred feet, the water falling like snowy +rockets bursting into spray from that great height. + +Then, for six hundred feet more, the torrent leaps and foams through +a trench it has cut out of the solid rock to the cliff, from which it +takes a second plunge. This Lower Yosemite fall is four hundred feet +high, the rushing waters turning into clouds of spray, which the wind +tosses from side to side. At Nevada Fall the Merced River leaps six +hundred feet at a bound, strikes a mass of rocks halfway down, and +breaks into white foam upon which rainbows play when the sun shines +through the misty veil. + +Besides the grand Sentinel Rock, Eagle Peak, Clouds' Rest, and other +high mountains in the Yosemite Valley, many domes or round-topped +peaks like the heads of buried giants loom up, the most famous being +South Dome, Washington Column, Liberty Cap, and Mount Broderick. + +But no one can picture this wonderful valley with pen or brush or +camera and give its real charm. You must see it yourself to know and +understand the beauty of great mountains and falling waters, of Mirror +Lake with its fine reflections of the surrounding scenery, and of the +rushing torrent of the Merced River in its swift coursing through this +mighty cañon of the Yosemite. Thousands of tourists and sightseers +visit the valley from May to October. Then snow begins to fall and +winter sets in, as it does everywhere in the high Sierras. Very deep +snow-drifts cover the ground, lakes and rivers freeze, and the great +falls are fringed with icicles, while a large ice cone forms at the +foot of the falling water. Many beautiful pictures may be found in +the valley in winter when Jack Frost is ruler of all the snow-clad, +ice-bound cañon. + +Scattered throughout the Sierras are other valleys almost as fine +as the Yosemite. These are not often reached by the army of summer +sight-seers, but true mountaineers find them. One valley which has +fine scenery is the Grand Cañon of the Tuolumne, the gorge being +twenty-five miles long, with walls so high and steep that once entered +one must go through to the end. The Tuolumne River rushes, with +terrible force and speed, in cascades and rapids down the granite +stairway which is the floor of this cañon. The walls of the gorge +rise so high that the traveller only sees a tiny strip of blue sky far +above him, and the great pine trees on top of these cliff walls seem +only the length of one's finger. + +It is supposed that all these valleys have been formed by glaciers, +which during the ice age, thousands of years ago, filled the cañons +and swept over the mountains. These masses of ice, moving very slowly, +ground and tore up the rocks under and around them till deep gorges +and steep, high cliffs were left in their tracks. Most of the glaciers +melted long ago, but on Mount Lyell, on Shasta, and a few of the +Sierra summits may still be found those ever-living ice-rivers, the +one on Mount Lyell being the source of the Tuolumne River. + +California is rich in lakes, especially in the mountains where the +melting snows gather in every hollow and form lakelets in chains or +groups, or in one large body of water like Tahoe, Donner, or Tenaya +lakes. + +One of the most beautiful lakes in the world is Lake Tahoe. It is six +thousand feet above sea-level, and the mountains around it rise four +thousand feet higher. On these peaks snow-drifts lie the year round +above the "snow-line," as a height over eight or nine thousand feet +is called. Nevada, treeless and barren, is on the eastern side of +Lake Tahoe, while the western or California side is green and thickly +wooded with beautiful pines. But the first thing one would notice, +perhaps, is the wonderful clearness of the lake water. As one stands +on the wharf the steamer _Tahoe_ seems to be hanging in the clear +green depths with her keel and twin propellers in plain sight. The +fish dart under her and all about as in some large aquarium. There a +big lake-trout shoots by like a silver streak of light, or here is a +school of hundreds of little fingerlings. Every stick or stone shows +on the bottom as one starts out on the steamer, and as one sails +along where the water is sixty or seventy feet deep. In the middle +the lake's depth is fifteen hundred feet and the water is a dark +indigo-blue. At the edge and along shallow places the color is bright +green, as at Emerald Bay, a beautiful inlet three miles long. Lake +Tahoe is twenty miles in length and about five wide, and its icy cold +waters are of crystal clearness and very pure. + +Fallen Leaf Lake is a smaller Tahoe, and Donner Lake, not far from +Truckee, and now the camping-place of many a summer visitor, is the +place where years ago the Donner overland party spent a terrible +winter in the Sierra snows. + +Clear Lake and the Blue Lakes in Lake County are delightful places +to visit, and in this county, too, are the geysers. Some wonderful +curiosities are seen here. You will find springs that spout up a +stream of hot water every few minutes, mineral springs from which +you can have a drink of soda water, and an acid spring that flows +lemonade. Alum, iron, or sulphur waters, either hot or cold, bubble +up out of the ground at every turn. At one spring you may boil an +egg. Other springs are used for steam baths and also hot mud-baths. In +Geyser Cañon is the strange place every sight-seer hurries to at once. +Such rumblings and thunderings, such hot vapors and gases come from +the cracks in the ground, that the Indians thought this was the +workshop where the bad spirit which white people call the devil used +to live and work. The deeper one goes into this cañon, the hotter and +noisier it gets. All round are signs telling where it is dangerous +to step, while the ground is hot, and boiling water runs by in little +streams. Steam rises from many pools, and the sulphur smell almost +chokes one. Another curious spring, called the devil's inkstand, seems +full of ink. Mount St. Helena, near here, is a dead or extinct +volcano, and probably there are fires in the earth under this region +which keep up these steam and sulphur springs. + +[Illustration: NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ.] + +Many of the Sierra summits are capped with volcanic rock, and Lassen's +Peak and Mount Shasta are extinct volcanoes. There are hot springs and +cracks from which steam and sulphur rise on both of these mountains, +and as earthquakes often shake the earth in different parts of the +state we know that underground fires are still at work. A great piece +of land on Mount San Jacinto in Southern California lately sank down +about a hundred feet, and cracks both deep and wide show that some +force from below gave a thorough shaking-up to that part of the state. + +Mono, Owen's, and several other large lakes are the "sinks" into which +rivers flow and lose themselves in the sandy or marshy shores. These +lakes have soda or salt in their waters, and great stretches of dry +alkali lands around them. The famous Death Valley is a dry lake of +this kind where the sun beats down on the white alkali plain till it +is almost certain death to try to cross it without a guide. The +Salton Sea is a dry lake where almost pure salt is dug out, and great +quantities of borax and of soda are found in other beds, of dried-up +streams and lakes. + +But to tell of all the curious things nature has to show us in +California,--of the forests of petrified trees, of the caverns cut out +of the ocean cliffs by restless waves, or of those in the mountains or +the Modoc lava-beds,--well, you will see most of them, let us hope, in +your vacations. A large book might be given to the wonderful sights +of this great state, and it may be your fortune to visit and so always +remember a few we have named. + + + +PRONOUNCING VOCABULARY + +Alta (äl´-ta). +Amador (am´-a-dore). +Alvarado (al-va-rä´-do). +Ayala (ä-yä´-la). +Bernal (ber-nal´). +Bodega (bo-d[=a]´-ga). +Cabrillo (ka-breel´-yo). +Calaveras (kal-a-v[=a]´-ras). +Carmel (kar´-mel). +Castro (kas´-tro). +Cortes (kor´-tez). +Coloma (ko-lo´-ma). +Diegueño (de-[=a]-gw[=a]n´-yo). +Farallones (f[)a]r´-a-lones). +Figueroa (fi-gwa-ro´-a). +Franciscan (fran-cis´-can). +Galvez (gal´-ves). +Gringos (gring´-gos). +Guerrero (gur-r[=a]´-ro). +Junipero Serra (h[=u]-nip´-er-o ser´-ra). +Klamath (klam´-eth). +Los Angeles (los an´-ga-lees). +Marin (ma-rin´). +Mariposa (mar-e-po´-sa). +Martinez (mar-tee´-nes). +Mechoopdas (me-choop´-das). +Mission Dolores (mis´-sion do-l[=o]r´-es). +Modocs (mo´-docs). +Monterey (mon-ta-ray´). +Noe (no´-a). +Ortega (or-t[=a]´-ga). +Pacheco (pä-ch[=a]´-ko). +Padres (pa´-drays). +Palou (pa´-loo). +Pio Pico (pe´-o pe´-ko). +Placerville (pl[)a]s´-er-vil). +Point Reyes (rays). +Pomos (po´-mos). +Portola (por-to´-la). +San Antonio (san an-t[=o]-ni-[=o]). +Sanchez (san´-ches). +San Carlos (san kar´-l[=o]s). +San Diego (san de-[=a]´-go). +San Fernando (san fer-nan´-do). +San Francisco (san fran-cis´-co). +San Gabriel (san ga-brell´). +San Jacinto (san ha-sin´-to). +San Joaquin (san waw-keen´). +San Jose (san ho-say´). +San Juan Bautista (san wawn ba-tis´-ta). +San Juan Capistrano (san wawn kap-is-tra´-no). +San Luis Obispo (san loo-is o-bis´-po). +San Miguel (san mig-gell´). +Santa Barbara (san´-ta bar´-ba-ra). +Santa Catalina (san´-ta kat-a-lee´-na). +Santa Cruz (san´-ta krooz). +Santa Lucia (san´-ta loo-she´-a). +Santa Ysabel (san´-ta [=e]´-sa-bel). +Santa Ynez (san´-ta e´-nes). +Sausalito (saw-sa-lee´-to). +Sierras (see-er´-ras). +Siskiyous (sis´-ke-yous). +Sonoma (so-no´-ma). +Sutter (s[)u]t´-ter). +Tahoe (tä´-ho). +Tamalpais (tarm´-el-pies). +Tenaya (te-ni´-ya). +Tulare (too-lar´-ee). +Tuolumne (too-ol´-um-ee). +Ukiah (u-ki´-ah). +Vallejo (väl-y[=a]´-ho). +Viscaino (vees-kä-e´-no). +Wawona (wa-wo´-na). +Yerba Buena (yer´-ba bw[=a]´-na). +Yosemite (yo sem´-e-tee). + +abalone (ab-a-lo´-nee). +adobe (a-do´-bee). +alcalde (al-kal´-day). +arrastra (ar-ras´-tra). +burro (boo´-ro). +cañon (can´-yon). +carne seca (kar´-n[=a] s[=a]´-ka). +cascarone (kas-ka-ro´-na). +chaparral (shap-per-ral´). +coyote (ki-o´-tee). +corral (kor-ral´). +debris (day-bree´). +el toro (el to´-ro). +fandango (fan-dang´-go). +frijoles (free-yo´-lays). +galleon (gal´-le-on). +madroño (ma-dron´-yo). +manzanita (man-zan-ee´-ta). +mantilla (man-tee´-ya). +mahala (ma-ha´-la). +mesa (m[=a]´-sa). +mustangs (mus´-tangs), +presidio (pr[=a]-se´-de-o). +pueblos (p[=u]-[=a]´-blos), +ranche (ransh). +rancheria (ran-sha-ree´-a). +rodeos (ro-da´-os). +senora (s[=a]n-yo´-ra). +senoritas (s[=a]n-yor-ee´-tas). +sombrero (som-br[=a]´-ro). +sequoias (see-kwoy´-as). +serape (ser-ä´-pay). +teredo (te-r[=e]´-do). +temescal (tem-es-kal´). +tortillas (tor-tee´-yas). +tule (too´-lee). +vaqueros (vä-ka´-ros). + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Stories of California, by Ella M. 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Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/13232-8.zip b/old/13232-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cf9f5ce --- /dev/null +++ b/old/13232-8.zip diff --git a/old/13232-h.zip b/old/13232-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3e422b9 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/13232-h.zip diff --git a/old/13232-h/13232-h.htm b/old/13232-h/13232-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f1fa8ec --- /dev/null +++ b/old/13232-h/13232-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,5099 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" + content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of + Stories of California, + by Ella M. Sexton. +</title> +<style type="text/css"> + P { text-indent: 1em; + margin-top: .75em; + font-size: 100%; + margin-bottom: .75em; } + HR{ border: 0; + width: 33%; + height: 4px;} + PRE{ + font-size: 100%; + margin-left: 2.5em;} + P.bq{ + font-size: 100%;} + P.list{ + text-indent: 6px; + margin-top: 3px; + margin-bottom: 3px; } + div.caption{ + font-size: 80%;} +</style> +</head> + +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Stories of California, by Ella M. Sexton + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Stories of California + +Author: Ella M. Sexton + +Release Date: August 20, 2004 [EBook #13232] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STORIES OF CALIFORNIA *** + + + + +Produced by Ronald Holder and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. + + + + + +</pre> + +<p> </p> + +<a name="image-1"><!-- Image 1 --></a> +<div align="center"> +<a href="images/lg1000.jpg"><img src="images/sm1000.jpg" alt="Nevada Falls (Height 617 Feet). Yosemite Valley." +width="203" height="339" border="0"></a> +<br>Nevada Falls (Height 617 Feet). Yosemite Valley.<br> +<i>Click Thumbnail for full-size Illustration</i></div> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<div align="center"><h1>STORIES OF CALIFORNIA</h1> +<p> </p> +<h3>BY</h3> +<h2>ELLA M. SEXTON </h2> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h3>NEW YORK </h3> +<h2>THE MACMILLAN COMPANY </h2> +<h3>LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., LTD. </h3> +<h3>1903</h3> +<h4><i>All rights reserved</i></h4> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_1"><!-- RULE4 1 --></a> + +<h4>1902,</h4> +<h4>BY THE MACMILLAN COMPANY.</h4> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<h4>Set up, electrotyped, and published September, 1902. Reprinted October, 1903.</h4> +<h4>Normond Press J.S. Cushing & Co.—Berwick & Smith Co. +Norwood, Mass., U.S.A.</h4> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<a name="FOR"><!-- FOR --></a> +<h2> + FOREWORD +</h2> + +<p> +To recount in simple, accurate narratives the early conditions and +subsequent development of California is the purpose of this book. In +attempting to picture the romantic events embodied in the wonderful +history of the state, and to make each sketch clear and concise as +well as interesting, the author has avoided many dry details and +dates. +</p> +<p> +Several of the stories endeavor to explain the remarkable physical +characteristics of California. The work to this end was rendered +lighter by the hope that the reader might find the book merely an +introduction to that larger knowledge of personal observation and +inquiry. +</p> +<p> +But the writer's chief aim has been to interest the children of +California in the beautiful land of their birth, to unfold to them the +life and occurrences of bygone days, and to lead them to note and to +enjoy their fortunate surroundings. +</p> +<p> +Among the many authorities consulted for the work, special +acknowledgment is due to the historians, Theodore H. Hittell and H.H. +Bancroft. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<hr> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="TOC"><!-- TOC --></a> +<h2> + CONTENTS +</h2> + +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_3">CALIFORNIA'S NAME AND EARLY HISTORY</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_4">THE STORY OF THE MISSIONS AND OF FATHER SERRA</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_5">BEFORE THE GRINGOS CAME</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_6">THE AMERICANS AND THE BEAR-FLAG REPUBLIC</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_7">THE DAYS OF GOLD AND THE ARGONAUTS OF '49</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_8">MINING STORIES</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_9">HOW POLLY ELLIOTT CAME ACROSS THE PLAINS</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_10">THE BUILDING OF THE OVERLAND RAILROAD</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_11">STORY OF THE WHEAT FIELDS</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_12">ORCHARD, FARM, AND VINEYARD</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_13">THE STORY OF THE NAVEL ORANGE</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_14">THE LEMON</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_15">FLOWERS AND PLANTS</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_16">THE BIG TREES AND LUMBERING</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_17">OUR BIRDS</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_18">OUR WILD ANIMALS</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_19">IN SALT WATER AND FRESH</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_20">ABOUT CALIFORNIA'S INDIANS</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_21">THE STORY OF SAN FRANCISCO</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_22">MEN CALIFORNIA REMEMBERS</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_23">OUR GLORIOUS CLIMATE</a> +</p> +<p> +<a href="#RULE4_24">SOME WONDERFUL SIGHTS</a> +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="ILL"><!-- ILL --></a> +<h2> + ILLUSTRATIONS +</h2> + +<p>1. <a href="images/lg1000.jpg"> +NEVADA FALLS (height 617 feet), YOSEMITE VALLEY +</a></p> +<p>2. <a href="images/lg1005.jpg"> +FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA +</a></p> +<p>3. <a href="images/lg1012a.jpg"> +MISSION CHURCH, MONTEREY +</a></p> +<p>4. <a href="images/lg1012b.jpg"> +OLD SAN DIEGO MISSION. Founded 1769 +</a></p> +<p>5. <a href="images/lg1021a.jpg"> +MISSION SAN LUIS REY. Founded 1798 +</a></p> +<p>6. <a href="images/lg1021b.jpg"> +MISSION DOLORES. Established 1776 +</a></p> +<p>7. <a href="images/lg1028.jpg"> +SANTA BARBARA MISSION. Founded 1786 +</a></p> +<p>8. <a href="images/lg1037a.jpg"> +UPPER SACRAMENTO RIVER +</a></p> +<p>9. <a href="images/lg1037b.jpg"> +PLACER GOLD MINING. Washing with Cradle +</a></p> +<p>10. <a href="images/lg1085a.jpg"> +AN ORANGE TREE WITH FRUIT AND BLOSSOMS +</a></p> +<p>11. <a href="images/lg1085b.jpg"> +PALMS OVER 100 YEARS OLD AT LOS ANGELES +</a></p> +<p>12. +HOP VINES [1] +</p> +<p>13. +AMONG THE HOP VINES[1] +</p> +<p>14. +WHITE SANTA BARBARA POPPY[1] +</p> +<p>15. +WILD CALIFORNIA POPPY[1] +</p> +<p>16. <a href="images/lg1103a.jpg"> +IN A MISSION GARDEN +</a></p> +<p>17. <a href="images/lg1103b.jpg"> +A CHRISTMAS GARDEN +</a></p> +<p>18. <a href="images/lg1106a.jpg"> +"WAWONA" (28 feet in diameter) +</a></p> +<p>19. <a href="images/lg1106b.jpg"> +THE GRIZZLY GIANT (33 feet in diameter) +</a></p> +<p>20. <a href="images/lg1118.jpg"> +BIG TREES AT FELTON, SANTA CRUZ CO. +</a></p> +<p>21. <a href="images/lg1133a.jpg"> + YOUNG TOWHEE +</a></p> +<p>22. <a href="images/lg1133b.jpg"> +BABY YELLOW WARBLERS. From photographs by Elizabeth Grinnell +</a></p> +<p>23. <a href="images/lg1140.jpg"> +CALIFORNIA RED DEER. From a photograph by George V. Robinson +</a></p> +<p>24. <a href="images/lg1149a.jpg"> +LEAPING TUNA +</a></p> +<p>25. <a href="images/lg1149b.jpg"> +BLACK SEA BASS +</a></p> +<p>26. <a href="images/lg1159a.jpg"> +HUMPBACK WHALE (57 feet long) +</a></p> +<p>27. <a href="images/lg1159b.jpg"> +TROUT FROM LAKE TAHOE +</a></p> +<p>28. <a href="images/lg1162a.jpg"> +INDIAN WOMAN WITH PAPPOOSE +</a></p> +<p>29. <a href="images/lg1162b.jpg"> +INDIAN WOMAN WITH BASKETS +</a></p> +<p>30. <a href="images/lg1174.jpg"> +INDIAN BASKETS +</a></p> +<p>31. <a href="images/lg1177a.jpg"> +SEAL ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO +</a></p> +<p>32. <a href="images/lg1177b.jpg"> +THE NEW CLIFF HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO +</a></p> +<p>33. <a href="images/lg1179.jpg"> +ENTRANCE TO JAPANESE TEA GARDEN, SAN FRANCISCO +</a></p> +<p>34. <a href="images/lg1191a.jpg"> +FALLEN LEAF LAKE +</a></p> +<p>35. <a href="images/lg1191b.jpg"> +MOUNT SHASTA FROM STRAWBERRY VALLEY +</a></p> +<p>36. <a href="images/lg1194a.jpg"> +"EL CAPITAN" (3300 feet in height) +</a></p> +<p>37. <a href="images/lg1194b.jpg"> +YOSEMITE FALLS +</a></p> +<p>38. <a href="images/lg1206.jpg"> +NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ +</a></p> + +<p class="bq">[Compiler's note 1: Four illustrations were omitted from the published book, but were listed in the +Illustrations pages.]</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_2"><!-- RULE4 2 --></a> +<h2> + STORIES OF CALIFORNIA +</h2> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_3"><!-- RULE4 3 --></a> +<h1> + STORIES OF CALIFORNIA +</h1> + + +<h2>CALIFORNIA'S NAME AND EARLY HISTORY</h2> +<p> </p> + +<p> +A Spanish story written four hundred years ago speaks of California as +an island rich in pearls and gold. Only black women lived there, the +story says, and they had golden spears, and collars and harness of +gold for the wild beasts which they had tamed to ride upon. This +island was said to be at a ten days' journey from Mexico, and was +supposed to lie near Asia and the East Indies. +</p> +<p> +Among those who believed such fairy tales about this wonderful island +of California was Cortes, a Spanish soldier and traveller. He had +conquered Mexico in 1521 and had made Montezuma, the Mexican emperor, +give him a fortune in gold and precious stones. Then Cortes wished +to find another rich country to capture, and California, he thought, +would be the very place. He wrote home to Spain promising to bring +back gold from the island, and also silks, spices, and diamonds from +Asia. For he was sure that the two countries were near together, and +that both might be found in the Pacific Ocean, or South Sea, as he +called it, by sailing northwest. +</p> +<p> +So for years Cortes built ships in New Spain (or Mexico), and sent out +men to hunt for this golden island. They found the Gulf of California, +and at last Cortes himself sailed up and down its waters. He explored +the land on both sides, and saw only poor, naked Indians who had a few +pearls but no gold. Cortes never found the golden island. We should +remember, however, that his ships first sailed on the North Pacific +and explored Lower California, and that he first used the name +California for the peninsula. +</p> +<p> +It was left for a Portuguese ship-captain called Cabrillo to find the +port of San Diego in 1542. He was the first white man to land upon +the shores of California, as we know it. Afterwards he sailed north to +Monterey. Many Indians living along the coast came out to his ship +in canoes with fish and game for the white men. Then Cabrillo sailed +north past Monterey Bay, and almost in sight of the Golden Gate. But +the weather was rough and stormy, and without knowing of the fine +harbor so near him, he turned his ship round and sailed south again. +He reached the Santa Barbara Islands, intending to spend the winter +there, but he died soon after his arrival. The people of San Diego +now honor Cabrillo with a festival every year. He was the sea-king who +found their bay and first set foot on California ground. +</p> +<p> +About this time Magellan had discovered the Philippine Islands, and +Spain began to send ships from Mexico to those islands to buy silks, +spices, and other rich treasures. The Spanish galleons, or vessels, +loaded with their costly freight, used to come home by crossing +the Pacific to Cape Mendocino, and then sailing down the coast of +California to Mexico. Before long the English, who hated Spain and +were at war with her, sent out brave sea-captains to capture the +Spanish galleons and their cargoes. Sir Francis Drake, one of the +boldest Englishmen, knew this South Sea very well, and on a ship +called the <i>Golden Hind</i> (which meant the Golden Deer), he came +to the New World and captured every Spanish vessel he sighted. He +loaded his ship with their treasures, gold and silver bars, chests of +silver money, velvets and silks, and wished to take his cargo back to +England. He tried to find a northern, or shorter way home, and at last +got so far north that his sailors suffered from cold, and his ship was +nearly lost. Obliged to sail south, he found a sheltered harbor near +Point Reyes, and landed there in 1579. Drake claimed the new country +for the English Queen, Elizabeth, and named it New Albion. A great many friendly +Indians in the neighborhood brought presents of feather and bead work to the +commander and his men. These Indians killed small game and deer with +bows and arrows, and had coats or mantles of squirrel skins. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Natural Bridge, Santa Cruz" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1206.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1206.jpg" width="150" height="150" border="0" + alt="NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">NATURAL BRIDGE, <br>SANTA CRUZ. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Drake and his sailors repaired and refitted their vessel during the +month they stayed at Drake's Bay. They made several trips inland also +and saw the pine and redwood forests with many deer feeding on the +hills; but they did not discover San Francisco Bay. On leaving New +Albion, Drake sailed the <i>Golden Hind</i> across the Pacific to the +East Indies and the Indian Ocean, and round the Cape of Good Hope home +to England, with all the treasure he had taken. The queen received him +with great honors and his ship was kept a hundred years in memory of +the brave admiral, who had commanded it on this voyage. +</p> +<p> +During the next century several English commanders of vessels sailed +the South Sea while hunting Spanish galleons to capture, and these +ships often touched at Lower California for fresh water. Some of +the captains explored the coast and traded with the Indians, but no +settlements were made. +</p> +<p> +Then the Spanish tried to find and settle the country they had heard +so many reports of, thinking to provide stations where their trading +ships might anchor for supplies and protection. Viscaino, on his +second voyage for this purpose, landed at San Diego in 1602. Sailing +on to the island he named Santa Catalina, Viscaino found there a tribe +of fine-looking Indians who had large houses and canoes. They were +good hunters and fishermen and clothed themselves in sealskins. +Viscaino went on to Monterey and finally as far north as Oregon, but +owing to severe storms, and to sickness among his sailors, he was +obliged to return to Mexico. +</p> +<p> +For a long time after this failure to settle upon the coast, the +Spanish came to Lower California for the pearl-fisheries. Along the +Gulf of California were many oyster-beds where the Indians secured +the shells by diving for them. Large and valuable pearls were found +in many of the oysters, and the Spanish collected them in great +quantities from the Indians who did not know their real value. +</p> +<p> +In this peninsula of Lower California fifteen Missions, or +settlements, each having a church, were founded by Padres of the +Jesuits. But later the Jesuits were ordered out of the country, and +their Missions turned over to the Franciscan order of Mexico. +</p> +<p> +With the coming of the Franciscans a new period of California's +history began. Spain wished to settle Alta California, or that region +north of the peninsula, and Father Serra, the head and leader of these +Franciscans, was chosen to begin this work. +</p> +<p> +How he did this, and how he and his followers founded the California +Missions you will read in the story of that time. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_4"><!-- RULE4 4 --></a> +<h2> + THE STORY OF THE MISSIONS AND OF FATHER SERRA +</h2> + +<p> +The old Missions of California are landmarks that remind us of Father +Serra and his band of faithful workers. There were twenty-one of their +beautiful churches, and though some are ruined and neglected, others +like the Mission Dolores of San Francisco and the Santa Barbara and +Monterey buildings are still in excellent condition. From San Diego to +San Francisco these Missions were located, about thirty miles apart, +and so well were the sites chosen that the finest cities of the state +have grown round the old churches. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1005.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1005.jpg" alt="FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA" width="150" height="141" border="0"> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Father Junipero Serra was the president and leader of the Franciscan +missionaries and the founder of the Missions. He had been brought up +in Spain, and had dreamed from his boyhood of going to the New +World, as the Spanish called America, to tell the savages how to be +Christians. He began his work as a missionary in Mexico and there +labored faithfully among the Indians for nearly twenty years. But as +his greatest wish was to preach to those in unknown places he was glad +to be chosen to explore Alta or Upper California. +</p> +<p> +Marching by land from Loreto, a Mission of Lower California, Father +Serra, with Governor Portola and his soldiers, reached San Diego in +1769. Here he planted the first Mission on California ground. The +church was a rude arbor of boughs, and the bells were hung in an oak +tree. Father Serra rang the bells himself, and called loudly to the +wondering Indians to come to the Holy Church and hear about Christ. +But the natives were suspicious and not ready to listen to the good +man's teachings, and several times they attacked the newcomers. +Finally, after six years, they burnt the church and killed one of the +missionaries. But later on there was peace, and the priests, or Padres +as they were called, taught the Indians to raise corn and wheat, and +to plant olive orchards and fig trees, and grapes for wine. They built +a new church and round it the huts, or cabins, of the Indians, the +storehouses, and the Padre's dwelling. In the early morning the bells +called every member of the Mission family to a church service. After a +breakfast of corn and beans they spent the morning in outdoor work or +in building. At noon either mutton or beef was served with corn and +beans, and at two o'clock work began again, to last till evening +service. A supper of corn-meal mush was the Indians' favorite +meal. They had many holidays, when their amusements were dancing, +bull-fighting, or cock-fighting. +</p> +<p> +San Diego, called the Mother Mission, because it is the oldest church, +is now also most in ruins. But its friends hope to put new foundations +under the old walls, and to recap firm ones with cement, and preserve +this monument of early California history. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Mission church, Monterey" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1012a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1012a.jpg" width="150" height="148" border="0" + alt="MISSION CHURCH, MONTEREY."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">MISSION CHURCH, <br>MONTEREY. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +After Father Serra had started the San Diego settlement he set sail +for Monterey. Landing at Monterey Bay, he built an altar under a large +oak tree, hung the Mission bells upon the boughs, and held the usual +services. The Spanish soldiers fired off their guns in honor of the +day and put up a great cross. The Indians had never heard the sound of +guns and were so frightened that they ran away to the mountains. The +second Mission was built on the Carmel River, a little distance from +the site of the first altar. This was called San Carlos of Monterey, +and the settlement was the capital of Alta California for many years. +It was also the Mission that Father Serra loved the best, and after +every trip to other and newer settlements he returned to San Carlos as +his home. This Monterey Mission is well preserved, and books, carved +church furniture, and embroidered robes used in the old services are +still shown. +</p> +<p> +At both San Diego and Monterey a presidio, or fort, was built for the +soldiers. These forts had one or two cannon brought from Spain, and +had around them high walls, or stockades, to protect, if it should be +necessary, the Mission people from the Indians. The cannon were fired +on holidays, or to frighten troublesome Indians. +</p> +<p> +All the Mission buildings were of brown clay made into large bricks +about a foot and a half long and broad, and three or four inches +thick. These bricks, dried in the sun, were called adobes, and were +plastered together and made smooth by a mortar of the same clay. +Then the walls were coated outside and inside with a lime stucco and +whitewashed. The roof timbers were covered with hollow red tiles, each +like the half of a sewer pipe, and these were laid to overlap each +other so that they kept the rain out. The floors were of earth beaten +hard, and the windows had bars or latticework, but no glass. The large +church was snowy white within and without and had pictures brought +from Spain and much carved furniture, such as chairs, benches, and +the pulpit made by the Indians. One or two round-topped towers and +five or six belfries, each holding a large bell, were on the church roof, +and a great iron cross at the very top. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Old San Diego Mission, Founded 1769" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1012b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1012b.jpg" alt="OLD SAN DIEGO MISSION. Founded 1769." + width="150" height="138" border="0"> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">OLD SAN DIEGO MISSION. <br>Founded 1769. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Night and morning the Mission bells rang to call the Indians to mass +or service, and chimes or tunes were rung on holidays or for weddings. +These Mission bells were brought from Spain, and it was thought a +blessing rested on the ship which carried them, and that shipwreck +could not come to such a vessel. We read of one captain joyfully +receiving the Mission bells to take to San Diego. When nearing the +coast his vessel struck a rock, yet passed on in safety because, as +he said, no harm could happen with the bells on board. On his journeys +every missionary carried a bell with him for the new church he was to +build. Father Serra's first act on reaching a stopping-place was to +hang the bell in a tree and ring it to gather the Indians and people +for service. +</p> +<p> +San Antonio, a very successful Mission, was the third one established, +and it was in a beautiful little valley of the Santa Lucia Mountains. +Every kind of fruit grew in its orchards, and the Indians there were +very happy and contented, and in large workshops made cloth, saddles, +and other things. San Gabriel, not far from Los Angeles and sometimes +called the finest church of all, was the next to be built. This was +the richest of the Missions and had great stores of wool, wheat, and +fruit, which the hard-working Indians earned and gave to the church. +The Indians, indeed, were almost slaves, and worked all their +lives for the Padres without rest or pay. At San Gabriel the first +California flour-mill worked by a stream of water turning the wheel, +was put up. Some of the old palms and olive trees are still growing +there. +</p> +<p> +San Juan Capistrano, founded in 1776, was one of the best-known +Missions, for it had a seaport of its own at San Juan. Vessels came to +its port for the hides and tallow of thousands of cattle herded round +the Mission. The first fine church of this Mission was destroyed by +an earthquake, and many people were killed by its falling roof. It was +rebuilt, however, and still shows its fine front, and long corridors +or porches round a hollow square where a garden and fountain used to +be. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Mission Dolores. Established 1776" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1021b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1021b.jpg" alt="MISSION DOLORES. Established 1776." + width="144" height="150" border="0"> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">MISSION DOLORES.<br>Established 1776. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Old records tell us that Father Serra felt that there should be a +church named in honor of Francis, who was the founder and patron saint +of the Franciscan brotherhood of monks to which these missionaries +belonged. When Father Serra spoke of this to Galvez, that priest +replied, "If our good Saint Francis wants a Mission, let him show us +that fine harbor up above Monterey and we will build him one there." +Several explorers had failed to find this port about which Indians had +spoken to the Spanish. At last Ortega discovered it, and Father Palou, +in 1776, consecrated the Mission of San Francisco. Near the spot was +a small lake called the "Laguna de los Dolores," and from this the +church was at last known as the Mission Dolores. But the great city +bears the Spanish name of Saint Francis, or San Francisco. A fort +was erected where the present Presidio stands, and later a battery +of cannon was placed at Black Point. It is told that the Indians were +very quarrelsome here and fought so among themselves that the Padres +could get no church built for a year. In that part of San Francisco +called the Mission, the old building with its odd roof and three of +the ancient bells is a very interesting place to visit. There are +pictures, and other relics of the past to see, and in the graveyard +many of San Francisco's early settlers were buried. This was the sixth +Mission of Alta California. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Santa Barbara Mission, Founded 1786" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1028.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1028.jpg" alt="SANTA BARBARA MISSION. Founded 1786." + width="148" height="150" border="0"> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">SANTA BARBARA MISSION. <br>Founded 1786. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +The Santa Barbara Mission, where Franciscan fathers still live, has +a fine church with double towers and a long row of two-story adobe +buildings enclosing a hollow square where a beautiful garden is kept. +One of the brotherhood, wearing a long brown robe just as Father Serra +did, takes visitors into the church, and also shows them the garden +and a large carved stone fountain. This church is built of sandstone +with two large towers and a chime of six bells, and was finished in +1820. +</p> +<p> +The Santa Ynez Mission was much damaged by the heavy earthquake that +in 1812 ruined other Missions. Here the Indians raised large crops +of wheat and herded many cattle. Over a thousand Indians, it is said, +attacked this church in 1822, but the priest in charge frightened them +away by firing guns. This warlike conduct so displeased the Padres, +who wished the natives ruled by kindness, that the poor priest was +sent away from the Mission. +</p> +<p> +One of the early Missions was San Luis Obispo, where services are +still held. It was specially noted for a fine blue cloth woven by +the Indians from the wool of the Mission flocks of sheep. The Indians +there also wove blankets, and cloth from cotton raised upon their own +lands. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Mission San Luis Rey, Founded 1798" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1021a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1021a.jpg" alt="MISSION SAN LUIS REY. Founded 1798." + width="150" height="137" border="0"> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">MISSION SAN LUIS REY. <br>Founded 1798. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +San Juan Bautista, or St. John the Baptist, north of Monterey, had a +splendid chime of nine bells said to have been brought from Peru and +to have very rich, mellow tones. San Miguel had a bell hung up on a +platform in front of the church, and now at Santa Ysabel, sixty miles +from San Diego, where the Mission itself is only a heap of adobe +ruins, two bells hang on a rude framework of logs. The Indian +bell-ringer rings them by a rope fastened to each clapper. The bells +were cast in Spain and much silver jewellery and household plate were +melted with the bell-metal. Near them the Diegueño Indians worship in +a rude arbor of green boughs with their priest, Father Antonio, who +has worked for thirty years among the tribe. They live on a rancheria +near by and are making adobe bricks, hoping soon to build a church +like the old Mission long since crumbled away. +</p> +<p> +The last of the Missions was built in 1823 at Sonoma, and proved very +active in church work, some fifteen hundred Indians having been there +baptized. +</p> +<p> +Father Junipero Serra died at more than seventy years of age, at San +Carlos. During all his life in America he endured great hardships +and suffering to bring the gospel to the heathen as he had dreamed of +doing in his boyish days. A monument to his memory has been erected +at Monterey by Mrs. Stanford, but the Missions he founded are his best +and most lasting remembrances. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_5"><!-- RULE4 5 --></a> +<h2> + BEFORE THE GRINGOS CAME +</h2> + +<p> +This is the story Señora Sanchez told us children as we sat on the +sunny, rose-covered porch of her old adobe house at Monterey one +summer afternoon. And as she talked of those early times she worked +at her fine linen "drawn-work" with bright, dark eyes that needed no +glasses for all her eighty years and snow-white hair. +</p> +<p> +"When I was a girl, California was a Mexican republic," said the +Señora, "and Los Gringos, as we called the Americans, came in ships +from Boston. They brought us our shoes and dresses, our blankets and +groceries; all kinds of goods, indeed, to trade for hides and tallow, +which was all our people had to sell in those days. For no one raised +anything but cattle then, and all summer long cows cropped the +rich clover and wild oats till they were fat and ready to kill. In +the fall the Indians and vaqueros, or cowboys as you children call +them, drove great herds of cattle to the Missions near the ocean where +the Gringos came with their ship-loads of fine things and waited for +trading-days. +</p> +<p> +"For weeks every one worked hard, killing the cattle, stripping off +their skins and hanging the green or fresh hides over poles to dry in +the sun. When dried hard and stiff as a board the skins were folded +hair-side in, and were then worth about two dollars apiece. The +beef-suet, or fat, from these cattle was put into large iron kettles +and melted. While still hot it was dipped out with wooden dippers +into rawhide bags, each made from an animal's skin. When cold and hard +these bags of tallow were sewed up with leather strings, and thus they +were taken to Boston. +</p> +<p> +"So much beef was on hand at such times that not even the hungry +Indians could eat it all while it was fresh. The nicest pieces were +cut into long strips, dipped into a boiling salt brine full of hot +red peppers and hung up to dry where the sunshine soon turned the meat +into carne seca, or dried beef. We put it away in sacks, and very good +it was all the year for stews, and to eat with the frijoles, or red +beans, and tortillas, which were corn-cakes. +</p> +<p> +"All we bought from the Gringos was paid for with hides and tallow, +so it was well, you see, children, that my father owned ten thousand +cattle; for counting relatives and Indian servants, we always had more +than thirty people on our ranch to feed and clothe. We raised grain +and corn and beans enough for the family, but had to buy sugar, +coffee, and such things. +</p> +<p> +"Did we have many horses, you say? Yes, droves of them, and we almost +lived on horseback, for no one walked if he could help it, and there +were almost no carriages or roads. Neither were there any barns or +stables, for the mustangs, or tough little ponies, fed on the wild +grass and took care of themselves. Every morning a horse was caught, +saddled and bridled, and tied by the door ready to use. All the ladies +rode, too, and I often used to ride twenty miles to a dance with Juan, +my young husband, and back again in a day or so. +</p> +<p> +"Sometimes we went to the rodeo, where once a year the great herds of +cattle were driven into corrals, and each ranchero or farmer picked +out his own stock. Then those young calves or yearlings not already +marked were branded with their owner's stamp by a red-hot iron that +burnt the mark into the skin. After that the bellowing, frightened +animals were turned out to roam the grassy plains for another year. We +had plenty of feasting and merry-making at these rodeos, and a whole +ox was roasted every day for the hungry crowds, so no one went fasting +to bed. +</p> +<p> +"Those were gay times, my children," and Señora Sanchez sighed and +sewed quietly for a while till Harry asked her if they kept Christmas +before the Gringos came. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: A Christmas Garden" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1103b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1103b.jpg" width="150" height="171" border="0" + alt="A CHRISTMAS GARDEN."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">A CHRISTMAS GARDEN. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +"Yes, indeed," she said, laughing, "we kept Christmas for a week, +and all our friends and relatives were welcome, so that our big +ranch-house was full of company. Indeed, some of the visitors slept in +hammocks or rolled up in blankets on the verandas. Our house was built +round the four sides of a square garden, with wide porches, where we +sat on pleasant days. There was a fountain in this garden, and orange +trees, which at Christmas-time hung full of golden fruit and sweet +white flowers. On 'the holy night,' as we called Christmas Eve, we +hung lanterns in the porches, and everybody crowded there or in the +garden for their gifts. +</p> +<p> +"No, we had no Santa Claus nor Christmas tree, but my father gave +presents to all, even to the Indian servants and their children. A fan +or a string of pearls, perhaps, for my sisters, the young Señoritas; a +fine saddle or a velvet jacket for my brother; and red blankets or gay +handkerchiefs for the Indians, with sacks of beans or sweet potatoes +to eat with their Christmas feast of roast ox or a fat sheep. +Afterwards we danced till morning came, or sang to the sweet tinkle +of the guitars. Well do I remember, children, when the good Padres, +or priests, at the Mission forbade us to waltz, that new dance the +Gringos had taught us to like. I recall, also, that the governor only +laughed and said that the young folks could waltz if they wished. +So at my wedding, soon after, when we danced from Tuesday noon till +Thursday morning, you may be sure we had many a waltz. +</p> +<p> +"Pretty dresses, Edith? Yes, gay, bright silk or satin ones, with many +ruffles on the skirts and wide collars and sleeves of lace, or yellow +satin slippers and always a high comb of silver or tortoise-shell and +a spangled fan. And we had long gold and coral earrings and strings of +pearls from the Gulf, and, see!" as she pulled aside her neck-scarf, +"here is the necklace of gold beads that was my wedding gift. We +had no hats or bonnets, but wore black lace shawls, or mantillas, to +church, or twisted long silk scarfs over our heads to go riding. +</p> +<p> +"You will think the gentlemen were fine dandies in those Mexican days, +when I tell you that they often wore crimson velvet knee trousers +trimmed with gold lace, embroidered white shirts, bright green cloth +or velvet jackets with rows and rows of silver buttons, and red sashes +with long, streaming ends. Their wide-brimmed sombrero hats were +trimmed with silver or gold braid and tassels. They dressed up their +horses with beautiful saddles and bridles of carved leather worked +all over with gold or silver thread and gay with silver rosettes or +buttons. Each gentleman wore a large Spanish cloak of rich velvet or +embroidered cloth, and if it rained, he threw over his fine clothes +a serape, or square woollen blanket with a slit cut in the middle for +the head. +</p> +<p> +"Los Gringos used to laugh at the Mexican and his cloak, and not long +after they came the 'Greasers,' as the Americans called the young men +born here in California, began to wear the ugly clothes the Gringos +brought out from Boston. And so the times changed, children, and our +people learned to do everything as the Americans did it and to work +hard and save money instead of dancing and idling away the time. +</p> +<p> +"And the bull-fights, Harry? Oh, yes, there was a bull-fight every +Sunday afternoon, and everybody went, as you do to the football games. +The ladies clapped their hands if the sport was good, or if the bull +was killed by the brave swordsman. And if the men got hurt or the +horses,—well, we only thought that was part of the game, you see. El +toro, as we called the bull, always tried to save himself; and if he +was savage and cruel, that was his nature, to try to kill his enemies. +The gay dresses and the music was what I cared for, and then all my +friends were there, also. +</p> +<p> +"But you must be tired of my old stories; is it not so, my children? +No, you want to hear about the dances, you say? Well, every party was +a dance; a fandango or ball, if it was given in a hall where everybody +could come, but at houses where just the people came who were invited +we called it only a dance. Every old grandfather or little girl, even, +danced all night long, and the rooms were hung with flags and wreaths. +All the Spanish dances were pretty, and the ladies with their gay +dresses and mantillas, and the gentlemen in velvet suits trimmed +with gold, made a fine picture. At the cascarone, or egg-shell dance, +baskets of egg-shells filled with cologne or finely cut tinsel or colored papers +were brought into the room, and the game was to crush these shells +over the dancers' heads. If your hair got wet with cologne or full of +gilt paper, everybody laughed, and you laughed too, for that was the +game, you know. Ah, there was plenty of merry-making and feasting in +those days, children," and Señora Sanchez sighed again and went on +with her "drawn-work," while the bell in the old Mission church near +by rang five o'clock, and we children ran home talking of those old +times before the Gringos came to California. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_6"><!-- RULE4 6 --></a> +<h2> + THE AMERICANS AND THE BEAR-FLAG REPUBLIC +</h2> + +<p> +While Spain owned Mexico and the two Californias, the Missions were at +their best and grew rich in stores of grain and in cattle and horses. +Almost all the people were Spanish or Indians, and they lived at the +Missions or in ranches near by. But when Mexico in 1822 refused to be +ruled by Spain, Alta or Upper California became a Mexican territory, +and, later on, a republic with governors sent from Mexico. The Mission +Padres did not like the change, and thought that Spain should still +own the New World. Before long it was ordered that the Missions should +be turned into pueblos, or towns, and that the Padres were no longer +to make slaves of the Indians. The missionaries were to stay as +priests, and to teach the Indians in schools, but the Mission lands +were to be divided so that each Indian family might have a small farm +to cultivate. From that time the Missions began to decay and were +finally given up to ruin. +</p> +<p> +Then Americans began to come in, the first party of hunters and +trappers travelling from Salt Lake City to the San Gabriel Mission. +All kept talking of the rich country where farming was so easy, and +they wished to have land. But the Mexicans and the native Californians +did not believe in allowing the Americans, as they called all the +people from the Eastern states, to take up their farming lands and +hunt and trap the wild animals. So there was much quarrelling. But the +Americans still poured in, got land grants, and built houses. +</p> +<p> +In 1836, though Alta California declared itself a free state, and no +longer looked to Mexico for support, Mexican rule still continued. The +United States had wanted California for a long time, and had tried to +buy it from Mexico. The fine bay and harbor of San Francisco, known +to be the best along the coast, was especially needed by the United +States as a place to shelter or repair ships on their way to the +Oregon settlements. England also wanted this bay, but the Californians +tried to keep every one out of their country. +</p> +<p> +Among the Americans who came overland and across the Rocky Mountains +about this time was John C. Fremont, a surveyor and engineer, who was +called the "Pathfinder." On his third trip to the Pacific Coast in '46 +he wished to spend the winter near Monterey, with his sixty hunters +and mountaineers. Castro, the Mexican general, ordered him to leave +the country at once, but Fremont answered by raising the American flag +over his camp. As Castro had more men, Fremont did not think it wise +to fight, but marched away, intending to go north to Oregon. He turned +back in the Klamath country on account of snow and Indians, as he +said, and camped where the Feather River joins the Sacramento. It +is almost certain that Fremont wished to provoke Castro and the +Californians into war, and so to capture the country for the United +States. +</p> +<p> +A party of Fremont's men rode down to Sonoma, where there was a +Mission, and also a presidio with a few cannon in charge of General +Vallejo. These men captured the place and sent Vallejo and three +other prisoners back to Fremont's camp. Then the independent Americans +concluded to have a new republic of their own, and a flag also. So +they made the famous "Bear-flag" of white cloth, with a strip of red +flannel sewed on the lower edge, and on the white they painted in +red a large star and a grizzly bear, and also the words "California +Republic." They then raised the flag over the Bear-flag Republic. Many +Americans joined their party, but when the American flag went up at +Monterey, the stars and stripes replaced the bear-flag. +</p> +<p> +At this time the United States and Mexico were at war on account +of Texas, and Commodore Sloat was in charge of the warships on the +Pacific Coast. The commodore had been told to take Alta California, +if possible; so, sailing to Monterey, he raised the stars and stripes +there in July, 1846, and ended Mexican power forever. The American +flag flew at the San Francisco Presidio two days later, and also at +Sonoma, Sutter's Fort, or wherever there were Americans. The flag was +greeted with cheers and delight. Then Commodore Sloat turned the naval +force over to Stockton and returned home, leaving all quiet north of +Santa Barbara. +</p> +<p> +Commodore Stockton sent Fremont and his men to San Diego and, taking +four hundred soldiers, went himself to Los Angeles, where the native +Californians and Mexicans were determined to fight against the rule of +the United States. General Castro and his men and Governor Pico, +the last of the Mexican governors, were driven out of the country. +Stockton then declared that Upper and Lower California were to be +known as the "Territory of California." +</p> +<p> +In less than a month, however, the Californians in the south gathered +their forces again and took Los Angeles. General Kearny was sent out +with what was called the "army of the west," to assist Fremont and +Stockton in settling the trouble. Peace was declared after several +battles, and Kearny acted as governor of the new territory, displacing +Fremont. At last, by the treaty which closed the Mexican war in 1848 +Alta California became the property of the United States, and Lower +California was left to Mexico. +</p> +<p> +From that time there was peace and quiet, and before long the +discovery of gold brought the new territory into great importance. The +rush to the gold mines brought thousands of men, and as no government +had been provided for the territory, Governor Riley in '49 called a +convention to form a plan of government. +</p> +<p> +This Constitutional Convention of delegates from each of California's +towns met in Monterey. The constitution there drawn up lasted for +thirty years, and under it our great state was built up. It declared +that no slavery should ever be allowed here, and settled the present +eastern boundary line. +</p> +<p> +The first Thanksgiving Day for the territory was set by Governor +Riley, in '49. The first governor elected by California voters was +Burnett, and in the first legislature Fremont and Gwin were chosen +as senators. Congress at last admitted California into the Union by +passing the California bill. On September 9, 1850, President Fillmore +signed the bill. +</p> +<p> +Every year on the 9th of September, or "Admission Day," we therefore +keep our state's birthday. At San Jose, in '99, a Jubilee Day was +held in remembrance of the beginning of state government fifty years before. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_7"><!-- RULE4 7 --></a> +<h2> + THE DAYS OF GOLD AND THE ARGONAUTS OF 1849 +</h2> + +<p> +California has well earned her name of "Golden State," for from her +rich mines gold to the value of thirteen hundred millions has been +taken. Yet every year she adds seventeen millions more to the world's +stock of gold. No country has produced more of this precious yellow +metal that men work and fight and die for. The "gold belt" of the +state still holds great wealth for miners to find in years to come. +</p> +<p> +Long, long ago people knew that gold was here, for in 1510 a Spanish +novel speaks of "that island of California where a great abundance +of gold and precious stones is found." In 1841 the Indians near San +Fernando Mission washed out gold from the river-sands, and other mines +were found not far from Los Angeles. +</p> +<p> +But James W. Marshall was the man who started the great excitement +of '48 and '49 by finding small pieces of gold at a place now called +Coloma, on the American River. Marshall, who was born in New Jersey, +came to this state in 1847, and being a builder wished to put up +houses, sawmills, and flour-mills. Finding that lumber was very +dear, he decided to build a sawmill to exit up the great trees on the +river-bank. He had no money, but John A. Sutter, knowing a mill was +needed there, gave Marshall enough to start with. +</p> +<p> +So the mill was built, and when it was ready to run Marshall found +that the mill-race, or ditch for carrying the water to his mill-wheel, +was not deep enough. He turned a strong current of water into it, +and this ran all night. Then it was shut off, and next day the ditch +showed where the stream had washed it deeper and had left a heap +of sand and gravel at the end of it. Here Marshall saw some shining +little stones, and picking them up he laid one on a rock and hammered +it with another till he saw how quickly it changed its shape. He was +sure that these bright, heavy, easily hammered pebbles were gold, but +the men working about the mill would not believe it. So he went to +Sutter, who lived near at a place called Sutter's Fort, because his +stores, house, and other buildings were built around a hollow square +with high walls outside to keep off the Indians. Sutter weighed the +little yellow lumps and said they certainly were gold. +</p> +<p> +The flood-gates between the mill-race and the river were opened again, +and water ran through the ditch, washing more gold in sight. Sutter +picked up enough of this to make a ring and had these words marked on +it:— +</p> +<p> +"The first gold found in California, January, 1848." +</p> +<p> +Both Sutter and Marshall tried to keep what they had found a secret, +but that was impossible, and soon people were flocking to the +gold-fields. Then began a wild excitement known as the "gold-fever," +and men left their stores and houses, gave up business, and left crops +ungathered in a wild chase after nuggets of gold. +</p> +<p> +By December of 1848, thousands of miners were washing for gold +all along the foot-hills from the Tuolumne River to the Feather, +a distance of 150 miles. A hundred thousand men came to California +during 1849, these Argonauts, or gold-hunters, taking ship or steamer +for the long trip from New York by the Isthmus of Panama. Some went +round Cape Horn, or else made a weary journey overland across the +plains. "To the land of gold" was their motto, and these pioneers +endured every hardship to reach this "Golden State." +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Placer Gold Mining." +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1037b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1037b.jpg" alt="PLACER GOLD MINING. Washing with Cradle." + width="149" height="150" border="0"> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">PLACER GOLD MINING. <br>Washing with Cradle. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Then the miners, with pick, shovel, and pan for washing out gold from +the gravel it was found in, started out "prospecting" for "pay-dirt." +The gold-diggings were usually along the rivers, and this surface, or +"placer," mining was done by shovelling the "pay-dirt" into a pan or a +wooden box called a cradle, and rocking or shaking this box from side +to side while pouring water over the earth. The heavy gold, either +in fine scales or dust, or in lumps called nuggets, dropped to the +bottom, while the loose earth ran out in a muddy stream. The rich sand +left in pan or cradle was carefully washed again and again till only +precious, shining gold remained. +</p> +<p> +So rich were some of the sand bars along the American and Feather +rivers that the first miners made a thousand dollars a day even by +this careless way of washing gold where much of it was lost. Then +again for days or weeks the miner found nothing at all. He would +wander up and down the cañons and gulches, prospecting for another +claim, and dreaming day and night of finding a stream with golden +sands, or of picking up rich nuggets. If he found good "diggings" he +would build a rough shanty under the pines, and dig and wash till the +gold-bearing sand or gravel gave out again. Sometimes he had a partner +and a donkey, or burro, to carry tools and pack supplies. More often +the Argonaut cooked his own bacon and slapjacks and simmered his beans +over a lonely camp-fire, and slept wrapped in a blanket under the +trees. If he had much gold, he would go to the nearest town, buy food +enough for another prospecting tramp, and often spend all the rest of +his money in foolish waste. +</p> +<p> +Sometimes a company of miners would build a dam across a river or +stream, and turn it from its course, so they could dig out and wash +the rich gravel in the river-bed. A flume, or ditch, would often carry +all the water to a lower part of the river, leaving the bed of the +upper stream dry for miles. In this kind of mining the "pay-dirt" was +shovelled into long wooden boxes called sluices, and a constant stream +of water kept the gravel and earth moving on out to a dumping-place. +The gold dropped down or settled into riffles, or spaces between bars +placed across the bottom of the sluices, and once a week the water was +turned off and a "clean-up" made of the gold. +</p> +<p> +It was not long before the rivers, creeks, and gulches had all been +worked over and most of the gold taken out. The miners knew that this +loose gold had been washed out of the hills by the rains and storms of +countless years. So some one thought of using a heavy stream of water +to break down the foot-hills themselves and to carry the gold-bearing +gravel to sluice boxes. This is called hydraulic mining and is the +cheapest way of handling earth, as water does all the work and +very little shovelling is needed. But since a strong water-power is +necessary, a large reservoir and miles of ditches or wooden flumes +must be built, so the first expense is large. The water usually comes +from higher up in the mountains, and is forced under great pressure +through iron pipes, the nozzle or "giant" being directed at the +hillside, which has already been shattered by heavy blasts of powder. +The water tears thousands of tons of earth and gravel apart, and the +muddy stream flows through sluices, where the gold is left. In this +kind of mining a great quantity of débris, or "tailings," must be +disposed of. +</p> +<p> +For years this débris was washed into the rivers or on farming lands, +filling up and ruining both, and leading to endless quarrels between +farmers and miners. But at last the courts stopped hydraulic mining +except in northern counties, where débris went into the Klamath River, +upon which no boats could run and near which was little farming. But +all the mines in the Sacramento and San Joaquin river-basins were idle +till, in 1893, Congress appointed a débris Commission. These mining +engineers issue licenses to work the mines when satisfied that the +débris will be kept out of the rivers. There are in the state many +hundred thousand acres of gold-bearing gravel lands yet untouched, +that could be worked by hydraulic mining. +</p> +<p> +In drift-mining the rich gravel is covered by hard lava rock thrown +up by some old volcanic outburst. Tunnels are driven by blasting with +dynamite, or by drilling under the rock to reach the gravel which +usually lies in the buried channel of an old river. The long drifts, +or tunnels, needed are very expensive and only mine owners with +capital can work these claims. +</p> +<p> +Richest of all are the quartz mines, where beautiful white rock, rich +with sparkling gold, is found in veins, or "lodes," cropping out of +hillsides or dipping down under the earth. The great "Mother-lode" +of our state runs like an underground wall across Amador, Calaveras, +Tuolumne, and Mariposa counties and has been traced for eighty miles. +</p> +<p> +Some poor miner usually finds a ledge of quartz-rock and digs down the +way the ledge goes. He puts up a windlass, worked by hand, over the +well-like hole he has dug out, and hoists the ore out in buckets. But +he soon finds, as the hole or shaft goes deeper, that he must timber +the sides to keep them from caving in, that he must have an engine to +raise the ore and a mill to crush the hard rock. So he sells out to a +company of men, who put in costly machinery, deepen the shaft, and by +heavy expenditure get large returns. +</p> +<p> +The quartz ledges dip and turn, so tunnels and cross-cuts are run to +follow the golden vein, and all these are timbered with heavy wooden +supports to keep the earth and rock from falling in on the men. The +miners work in day and night gangs, using dynamite to break up the +hard rock, and sending ore up in great iron buckets, or in cars if the +tunnel ends in daylight, on the hillside. Sometimes the miners +strike water, and that must be pumped out to keep the mine from being +flooded. +</p> +<p> +The ore is crushed by heavy stamps, or hammers, and then mixed with +water and quicksilver. This curious metal, quicksilver, or mercury, +is fond of gold and hunts out every little bit, the two metals mixing +together and making what is called an amalgam. This is heated in an +iron vessel, and the quicksilver goes off in steam or vapor, leaving +the gold free. The quicksilver, being valuable, is saved and used +again, while the gold, now called bullion, is sent to the mint to be +coined into bright twenties, or tens, or five-dollar pieces. +</p> +<p> +Some of the gold in the crushed ore will not mix with the quicksilver, +and this is treated to a bath of cyanide, a peculiar acid that melts +the gold as water does a lump of sugar. So all of value is saved, and +the worthless "tailings" go to the dump. Even the black sands on the +ocean beach have gold in them. In the desert also there is gold, which +is "dry-washed" by putting the sand into a machine and with a strong +blast of air blowing away all but the heavy scales of gold. +</p> +<p> +Though the Argonauts of '49 found much wealth in yellow gold, our +"Golden State," on hillsides, in river-beds, or deep down in hidden +quartz ledges, still holds great fortunes waiting to be found. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_8"><!-- RULE4 8 --></a> +<h2> + MINING STORIES +</h2> + +<p> +A large book might be filled with the stories told by the men +who found gold in the early days. Their "lucky strikes" in the +"dry-diggings" sound like fairy tales. Imagine turning over a big rock +and then picking up pieces of gold enough to half fill a man's hat +from the little nest that rock had been lying in for years and years! +</p> +<p> +And think of finding forty-three thousand dollars in a yellow lump +over a foot long, six inches wide and four inches thick! This was +the biggest nugget on record and actually weighed one hundred and +ninety-five pounds. The next one, too, you might have been glad to +pick up, as it held a hundred and thirty-three pounds of solid gold. +Little seventy-five and fifty-pound treasures were common, and a +soldier stopping to drink at a roadside stream found a nugget weighing +over twenty pounds lying close to his hand. +</p> +<p> +It paid to get up early those days, also for a man in Sonora, while +taking his morning walk, struck his foot against a large stone, and +forgot the pain when he saw the stone was nearly all gold. Another +man, with good eyes, got a fifty-pound nugget on a trail many people +used all the time. One day, after a heavy rain, a man who was leading +a mule and cart through a street in Sonora, noticed that the wheel +struck a big stone; he stooped to lift it out of the way, and found +the stone to be a lump of gold weighing thirty-five pounds. In less +than an hour all that part of the town and the street was staked off +into mining-claims, but no more was found. One of the largest of these +nuggets was found by three or four men, who took it to San Francisco +and the Eastern states, and exhibited it for money. They guarded the +precious thing day and night, but at last quarrelled so that it had to +be broken up and divided between them. +</p> +<p> +The first piece Marshall found was said to be worth about fifty cents, +and the second over five dollars. Almost all, though, that was found +was like beans or small seeds or in fine dust. No one tried to weigh +or measure such gold more correctly than to call a pinch between the +finger and thumb a dollar's worth, while a teaspoonful was an ounce, +or sixteen dollars' worth. A wineglassful meant a hundred dollars, +and a tumblerful a thousand. Miners carried their "dust" in a buckskin +bag, and this was put on the counter, and the storekeeper took out +what he thought enough to pay for the things the miner bought. A large +thumb to take a large pinch of the gold-dust meant a good many extra +dollars to the storekeeper in '48 and '49. Yet nearly every one was +honest, and gold might be left in an open tent untouched, for there +was plenty more to be had for the picking up. Those who would rather +steal than work were driven out of camp. +</p> +<p> +Some of the "sand bars," or banks of gravel and earth, washed down by +the Yuba River were so rich that the men could pick out a tin cupful +of gold day after day for weeks. One place was called Tin-cup Bar for +this reason. Spanish Bar, on the American River, yielded a million +dollars' worth of dust, and at Ford's Bar, a miner, named Ford, took +out seven hundred dollars a day for three weeks. At Rich Bar, on the +Feather River, a panful of earth gave fifteen hundred dollars. +</p> +<p> +Yet the miners were seldom satisfied, but were always prospecting for +richer claims. A man would shoulder his roll of blankets, his pick and +shovel, with a few cooking things, and start off hoping to find some +rich nugget, leaving a fairly good claim untouched. +</p> +<p> +The most extravagant prices were charged the miner for everything he +had to buy. Ten dollars apiece for pick and shovel, fifty more for a +pair of long boots, with bacon and potatoes at a dollar and a half a +pound, soon took all his gold-dust to pay for. A dozen fresh eggs cost +ten dollars, and a box of sardines half an ounce of gold-dust, which +was eight dollars. There was no butter to buy, for any milk was +quickly sold at a dollar a pint. The hotels charged three dollars a +meal, or a dollar for a dish of pork and beans, and a dollar for two +potatoes. +</p> +<p> +Lumber cost a dollar and a half a foot, but carpenters would not build +houses when they could make fifty dollars a day by mining. As there +was no lumber for the cabin floors, the ground was beaten hard and +really made a good floor. In Placerville the houses were built along +the bed of a ravine, and in sweeping these earthen floors some one saw +gold-dust glittering, and found that rich diggings were under foot. +Thereupon many of the miners dug up their cabin floors, and one man +took about twenty thousand dollars in nuggets and gold-dust from the +small space his cabin covered. +</p> +<p> +Very few women and children came to the mines in early days, and the +first white woman to arrive in a camp had all sorts of attentions. +Sometimes the town was named for the woman first in the place as +Sarahsville and Marietta. If a lady visited a mining-camp, the men far +and near would drop work and come in just to look at the visitor. One +lady, who sang for the miners on her arrival in their town, was given +about five hundred dollars' worth of gold-dust. +</p> +<p> +A child was a great curiosity, and any pretty little girl was sure to +have a collection of nuggets or a quantity of gold-dust presented to +her. The theatre and circus companies who visited mining-camps soon +found out that a little child who could sing or dance was a great +attraction. The miners used to throw a shower of money or nuggets at +the feet of such little favorites as we throw flowers now. +</p> +<p> +As there were no women living here for some time, the men having left +their families at home in the Eastern states, miners had to wash +and cook and make bread for themselves. Men who had been lawyers +or ministers at home, when there was no one else to do such things, +washed their dishes or their red flannel shirts. On Sunday no one +worked at mining, and the men baked bread and cleaned house, and +Sunday afternoons they dried, patched, and mended their clothes. If a +minister was in town, he held services on a hillside, or in the dining +room of some shanty called a hotel, and all the camp came to hear him +speak, or sang the hymns with him. +</p> +<p> +So the miners lived and worked and wandered along rivers and rough +mountain trails on the west side of the Sierras, gathering up gold +washed down by mountain streams. These Argonauts, or gold-seekers of +fifty years ago, are almost all dead now, but the treasures they found +made California known throughout the world. Their golden harvest has +made the state richer than they found it, for they used the wealth to +build cities, to cultivate farming-lands, and to plant orchards and +vineyards where the mining-camps used to be. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_9"><!-- RULE4 9 --></a> +<h2> + HOW POLLY ELLIOTT CAME ACROSS THE PLAINS +</h2> + +<p> +This is the story of a little girl who in 1849 rode all the way +from Ohio to California in an emigrant wagon. Polly Elliott has +grandchildren of her own now, but she remembers very well the spring +morning when her father came home and said to her mother, "Lizzie, +can you get ready to start for the land of gold next week?" She hears +again her mother saying, "Oh, John, with all these little children?" +She says her father answered by swinging her, the eleven-year-old +Polly, up to his shoulder and calling out, "Here's papa's little +woman; she'll help you take care of them," as he carried her round the +room, laughing. +</p> +<p> +This was "back East," as Polly Elliott, now Mrs. Davis, says,—in +Ohio, where they had a pretty white house set round with apple and +peach orchards all white and pink that May day. Her mother cried +because they must leave the house, and because they had to sell all +their furniture and the stock except Daisy, the pet cow, and Buck and +Bright, the oxen, who were to draw the wagon. A round-topped cover of +white cloth was fixed on the big farm-wagon. Then they piled into it +their bedding in calico covers, a chest or two holding clothes and +household goods, a few dishes and cooking things, and plenty of flour, +corn meal, beans, bacon, dried apples and peaches, tied up in sacks. +</p> +<p> +Polly says she supposed the trip would just be one long picnic, while +the four children thought it fine fun to "sit on mother's featherbed +and go riding," as they said. So they started off for California. +A long, long ride these emigrants had before them; a weary trip, +plodding along day after day with the patient oxen walking slowly and +the burning sun or pelting rain beating down on the wagon cover. There +was a train of other wagons with them, some pulled by horses but more +by yoked oxen, and the men walked beside the animals and cracked long +whips. A few men were on horseback, but all kept together, for Indians +were plenty and were often hiding near the road, watching for a chance +to cut off and capture any wagons lagging behind the party. +</p> +<p> +Day after day, Polly told me, they travelled westward to the setting +sun. They left the orchards and shady woods of Ohio and Indiana far +behind them, and crossed the wide prairies of Illinois and +Missouri also. When they came to rivers they drove through shallow +fording-places, where Polly and the children used to laugh to see the +little fishes swimming round the wagon wheels. Sometimes the rivers +were deep, and the wagons were ferried over on a flatboat that was +fastened to a wire rope, while oxen and horses swam through the water +behind them. If it did not rain, the children and all were happy, and +it did seem like a picnic. But Polly says she never hears the rain +pouring nowadays as it did then, and that there were many times when +they were wet and cold and miserable, and because the wood and ground +were wet they could not even have a fire. +</p> +<p> +At night the teams were unhitched and the wagons left in a circle +round a big camp-fire, where supper was cooked. Polly says her mother +used to bake biscuits in an iron spider with red-hot coals heaped on +its iron cover, and these biscuits with fried bacon and tea made +their meal. They always cooked a big potful of corn-meal mush for +the children, and this, with Daisy's milk and a little maple sugar or +molasses, was supper and breakfast too. Then the women and children +cuddled up in the wagons for the night, while men slept, wrapped in +blankets, around the camp-fire or under the wagons, with one always on +guard against danger from prowling Indians or wolves. +</p> +<p> +Every man or boy carried a rifle or shotgun, and killed plenty of +game. Deer and antelope were always in sight after they crossed the +Missouri River, and the meat was broiled or roasted over the coals of +their campfire. Wild turkeys and prairie-chicken tasted much better +than bacon, Polly said, and she learned to cook them herself. +</p> +<p> +When the emigrants reached Nebraska, they were in the "buffalo +country," and great herds of big, shaggy, brown or black buffaloes +were feeding on the grassy plains. The animals were larger than oxen, +and the Indians depended upon the flesh for food and the thick, warm +skins for robes or blankets. The emigrants shot thousands of buffalo +cows and calves, and what meat could not be eaten at once was cut +into long strips and hung in the sun or over the fire to dry. This +was called "jerking" the meat. On jerked buffalo or venison and flour +pancakes many emigrants lived all the way across. Game was so plenty +and so easy to shoot, that by stopping a few days, a good stock of +meat could be laid in while the oxen were resting. So they travelled +through Nebraska, and for weeks and weeks saw nothing but long grass +waving in the summer winds, and yellow sunflowers—miles and miles of +sunflowers. Polly grew very tired of the hot sun blazing down on the +close-covered wagon, and of the dust raised by the long wagon-train. +</p> +<p> +About this time she remembers that her father bought her a little +Indian pony, and from that happy day the child rode beside the wagon, +and could keep out of the dusty trail, or ride a little way off on the +prairie, if she liked. The pony carried double very well, so a small +sister or brother was often lifted on behind for a ride. One night +the Indians, who were always prowling round and coming as near the +wagon-train as they dared, frightened the horses and got away with ten +of them. All the women and children cried, Polly says, for they were +afraid the redskins would come back and kill them. In the morning +Polly's father and some of the men found the Indians' trail and +tracked them to a wooded cañon. The hungry thieves had killed one +horse and were so busy feasting on it that the white men surprised +them and shot all the Indians but two or three. The lost horses and +Polly's pony whinnied to their masters from a thicket, where they were +tied, and were taken back to camp. +</p> +<p> +On and on over the great plains of Wyoming the wagons carried these +emigrants. Many found the trip grow tiresome, while the oxen and mules +would often lie down in their traces and refuse to go any farther. A +few days' rest, and the rich bunch-grass to crop soon set the stock +all right, and the white-topped wagons crawled ahead again. Soon the +emigrants saw blue, hazy mountains, far off at first, then nearer and +nearer, till at last their road led through a pass between the peaks. +</p> +<p> +Then Polly remembers riding through Utah, with its queer red cliffs +and high rocks carved in strange shapes by winds and weather; the +stretches of sandy desert; and beyond those, grassy meadows and +streams fringed with green willows. After a while Great Salt Lake lay +sparkling in the sun and looking cool and blue. All around it were +alkali deserts or wide plains, hot and dusty and white with salt or +soda. The "prairie schooners," with their covers faded and burnt by +the sun, went very slowly over these desert wastes, Polly thought, +and Nevada, with its dusty gray sage-brush land on either side of the +road, seemed not much better. +</p> +<p> +"Papa's little woman" had her hands full now; for her mother was so +ill she seldom left the wagon. All the cooking fell to Polly's share, +and then she would ride along for hours with a little sister on her +lap and fat brother "Bub" behind her on the saddle-blanket, so that +her mother might rest and be quiet. +</p> +<p> +But soon the clear green Truckee River ran foaming and fretting beside +the road, and off in the west rose the snowy peaks of the Sierra +Nevada Mountains. Then the people began to laugh and to sing, for they +knew that California, the land of gold, was almost in sight and that +their weary journey was nearly ended. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Upper Sacremento River" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1037a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1037a.jpg" width="150" height="139" border="0" + alt="UPPER SACRAMENTO RIVER."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">UPPER SACRAMENTO RIVER. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +And one day they said joyfully to each other, "We are in California +at last;" and it was a happy company that travelled down through the +pines of the mountain sides and the oak trees of the foot-hills. Many +emigrants left the train when they got to the great Sacramento River +valley, and settled here and there to farming. Polly's father with +others kept on to the gold-diggings and camped there. He built a +log-cabin soon, for it was almost winter and time for the rains, and +Polly says she was glad to have a house at last. They finally took up +farming land near what is now Stockton, as gold-mining did not pay. +</p> +<p> +Mrs. Davis, who is straight and strong, and still a hard worker, says +her five months' trip across the plains was almost like a long picnic +after all, for she has forgotten many of the trying and disagreeable +things. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_10"><!-- RULE4 10 --></a> +<h2> + THE BUILDING OF THE OVERLAND RAILROAD +</h2> + +<p> +The army of emigrants and gold-hunters who crossed the plains to +California found it was a long and tiresome trip by wagon-train or on +horseback. The oxen or mules would sometimes get so tired that they +could go no farther; and because the food often ran short, there was +much suffering from hunger. +</p> +<p> +The longest way of all to California was by sailing vessel from New +York round Cape Horn, nearly nineteen thousand miles to San Francisco. +The passengers paid high prices and were six months on the way. Those +who came by the Panama route had trouble crossing the isthmus, where +it was so hot and unhealthy that many died of fevers and cholera. The +Pacific mail steamers connecting with a railroad across the isthmus +at last shortened the time of this trip of six thousand miles to +twenty-five days. For ten years all the Eastern mail came this way +twice a month. +</p> +<p> +It was thought a wonderful thing when the "pony express" carried mail +twice a week between St. Joseph, Missouri, where the Eastern railroads +ended, and Sacramento. To do this a rider, with the mail-bag slung +over his shoulder, rode a horse twenty-four miles to the next station, +where a fresh pony was ready. Hardly waiting to eat or sleep, the +rider galloped on again. Five dollars was often charged at that time +to bring the letter railroads carry now for two cents. +</p> +<p> +So you will see that a railroad to join California to the Eastern +states was a great necessity and had often been talked of. Several +ways to bring the iron horse puffing across the plains and up the +mountains with his long train of cars had been laid out on paper. The +emigrants had found that the best highway from the Missouri River +to California was to keep along the Platte River in Nebraska to Fort +Laramie and the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, then by Salt Lake, +and along the Humboldt and Truckee rivers, crossing the Sierras +at Donner Pass. Other roads were talked of, and Senator Benton of +Missouri favored a nearly straight line between St. Louis and San +Francisco. Some one, in objecting to this, said that only engineers +could lay out a railroad, and such men did not believe a straight line +possible. The senator answered: "There are engineers who never learned +in school the shortest and straightest way to go, and those are the +buffalo, deer, bear, and antelope, the wild animals who always find +the right path to the lowest passes in the mountains, to rich pastures +and salt springs, and to the shallow fords in the rivers. The Indians +follow the buffalo's path, and so does the white man for game +to shoot. Then the white man builds a wagon-road and at last his +railroad, on the trail the buffalo first laid out." +</p> +<p> +For two or three years surveyors and explorers tried to find the +easiest way to build this great overland road. Several railroad acts +or bills were passed by Congress, and the California Legislature gave +the United States the right of way for a road to join the two oceans. +</p> +<p> +The first railway in the state was opened in '56 from Sacramento to +Folsom, a distance of twenty-two miles. This was built by T.D. +Judah, an engineer who had thought and studied a great deal about the +overland road so much needed to bring mail and passengers quickly from +East to West. +</p> +<p> +A railroad convention, made up of men from the Pacific states and +territories, was held in San Francisco in '59, with General John +Bidwell, a pathfinder of early days, as the chairman. Here Mr. Judah +gave such a clear and full account of the central way he had +planned, that the convention sent him to Washington, D.C., to see the +President, and to try to get Congress to pass a Pacific Railroad +Bill. He had very little help in the East, but at last four men +of Sacramento, Leland Stanford, C.P. Huntington, Mark Hopkins, and +Charles Crocker, took an interest in Judah's plans, and in '61 the +Central Pacific Railroad Company was formed. Mr. Judah went back +to the mountains and studied the pines in summer and the winter +snowbanks, to make sure of the easiest grades and the shortest and +best way for the track-layers. He found that to follow the Truckee +River from near Lake Donner to the Humboldt Desert, would mean the +least work. The tunnels would be through rock, and he believed that +snow might easily be kept off the track with a snow-plough. +</p> +<p> +His report pleased the company, and they sent him again to present the +case at Washington. In '62 President Lincoln signed an act or bill to +allow the Union and Central Pacific companies to build a railroad and +a telegraph line from the Missouri River to the Pacific. In California +the land for fifteen miles on each side of the way laid out was given +to the railroad company, and two years was allowed them to build the +first hundred miles of track. +</p> +<p> +Ground was broken for the Central Pacific the next year in Sacramento, +and Governor Stanford dug up the first shovelful of earth. Then the +work went steadily on, but it was hard to raise money. Stanford +and his company carried the line forward as fast as possible. More +land-grants were given, which doubled the company's holdings, and in +'65 the road was fifty-five miles past Sacramento and had climbed over +much difficult work. +</p> +<p> +The steamship owners, the express and stage companies were all against +the railroad, and tried in every way to make people think that an +engine could never cross the Sierras. Yet the grading went on, while +an army of five thousand men and six hundred horses was at work +cutting down trees and hills and filling up the low places. A bridge +was built over the American River, and slowly but surely the track +climbed the steep mountain-sides. Most of the laborers were Chinese, +as white men found mining or farming paid them better. +</p> +<p> +In '67 the iron horse had not only climbed the mountains but had +reached the state line, and the Union Pacific, which had been laying +its tracks over the plains of the Platte River, began to hasten +westward. The two railroads were racing to meet each other, and the +Central sometimes laid ten miles of rails in one day. +</p> +<p> +Ogden was made the meeting-point, though at Promontory, fifty miles +west of Ogden, the last spike was driven. A thousand people met at +that place in May, '69, to see the short space of track closed and the +road finished. A Central train and locomotive from the Pacific came +steaming up, and an engine and cars from the Atlantic pulled in on +the other side. Both engines whistled till the snow-capped mountains +echoed. The last tie was of polished California laurel wood, with +a silver plate on which the names of the two companies and their +officers were engraved. It was put under the last two rails, and all +was fastened together with the last spike. This spike, made of solid +gold, Governor Stanford hammered into place with a silver hammer. East +and west the news was flashed over the long telegraph line, that the +overland railroad had been finished and that two oceans were joined by +iron rails. +</p> +<p> +Now, while flying along in the cars so fast that the trip from Chicago +to San Francisco takes but three days, it is hard to believe that +little more than thirty years ago travellers in the slow-moving +"prairie-schooner" took over five months to cover this same distance. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_11"><!-- RULE4 11 --></a> +<h2> + STORY OF THE WHEAT FIELDS +</h2> + +<p> +The Spanish Padres, as the Mission priests were called, taught the +Indians to plough and seed with wheat the lands belonging to the +church or Mission. They used a simple wooden plough, which oxen +pulled. When the warm brown earth was turned up, the Indians broke the +clods by dragging great tree branches over them. After the fall rains +they scattered tiny wheat kernels and covered them snugly for their +nap in the dark ground. +</p> +<p> +More rain fell, and soon the soaked seeds waked, and started in +slender green shoots to find the sunshine, and day by day the stalks +grew stronger and the fields greener. Higher and ever higher sprang +the wheat, till summer winds set the tall grain waving in a sea +of green billows. Have you ever watched the wind blow across a +wheat-field? Over and over the long rollers bend the tops of the +grain, that rise as the breeze goes on and bend low again at the next +breath of wind. +</p> +<p> +When the hot sun had ripened the grain, and all round the +white-walled, red-roofed Mission the fields stretched golden and ready +for harvest, the Indians cut the wheat, and scattering the bundles +over a spot of hard ground, drove oxen round and round on the sheaves +till the wheat was threshed out from the straw. Then Indian women +winnowed out the chaff and dirt by tossing the grain up in the wind, +or from basket to basket, till in this slow way the yellow kernels +were made clean and ready to grind. +</p> +<p> +A curious mill, called an arrastra, ground the grain between two heavy +stones. A wooden beam was fastened to the upper stone, and oxen or a +mule hitched to this beam turned the stone as they walked round. The +first flour-mill worked by water was put up at San Gabriel Mission, +and it was thought a wonderful thing indeed. +</p> +<p> +Even in those early days California wheat was known to be excellent, +and many ships came on the South Sea, as they then called the Pacific +Ocean, to load with grain for Mexico or Boston or England. Since that +time our state has fed countless people, and over a million acres of +valley and hill lands are green and golden every year with food for +the world. To Europe, to the swarming people of China, Japan, and +India, to South Africa and Australia, our grain is carried in great +ships and steamers, and hungry nations in many lands look to us for +bread. +</p> +<p> +For a long time after the Mission days, all the grain had to be hauled +to the rivers or sea-coast for shipping. Then the overland railroad +was finished, and within the next fifteen years an additional two +thousand miles of railways were built in California, and nearly every +mile opened up rich wheat land that had never been cultivated. Soon +great wheat ranches stretched far over the dry, hot valley plains. +</p> +<p> +The ground is ploughed and seeded after November rains, and all winter +the tender blades of grain grow greener and stronger day by day March +and April rains strengthen the crop wonderfully, and June and July +bring the harvest-time. As no rain falls then, the ripe wheat stands +in the field till cut, and afterward in sacks without harm. All the +work except ploughing is done by machinery, and this makes the wheat +cost less to raise, since a machine does the work of many men and the +expense of running it is small. +</p> +<p> +Some of the ranches have three or four thousand acres in wheat, and +it may interest you to know how such large farms are managed. The +ploughing is done by a gang-plough, as it is called, which has four +steel ploughshares that turn up the ground ten inches deep. Eight +horses draw this, and as a seeder is fastened to the plough, and back +of the plough a harrow, the horses plough, seed, harrow, and cover up +the grain at one time. There the seed-wheat lies tucked up in its warm +brown bed till rain and sunshine call out the tiny green spears, and +coax them higher and stronger, and the hot sun of June and July ripens +the precious grain. +</p> +<p> +Then a great machine called a "header and thresher" is driven into +the field and sweeps through miles and miles of bending grain, cutting +swaths as wide as a street, and harvesting, threshing, and leaving +a long trail of sacked wheat ready to ship on the cars. Thirty-six +horses draw the header, and five or six men are needed to attend to +this giant, who bites off the grain, shakes out the kernels, throws +them into sacks and sews them up, all in one breath, as you might say. +The harvesters work from daylight to dusk, and three-fourths of our +wheat crop is gathered in this way. +</p> +<p> +Much golden straw is left, besides that which the "headers" burn as +fuel, and farmers stack this straw for cattle to nibble at. The stock +feed in the stubble fields, too, and strange visitors also come +to these ranches to pick up the scattered grains of wheat. These +strangers are wild white geese, in such large flocks that when feeding +they look like snow patches on the ground. They eat so much that often +they cannot fly and may be knocked over with clubs. In the spring +these geese must be driven away by watchmen with shot-guns to keep +them from pulling up the young grain. +</p> +<p> +The largest single wheat-field in California is on the banks of the +San Joaquin River, in Madera County. This covers twenty-five thousand +acres and is almost as flat as a floor. It is nearly a perfect square +in shape, and each side of the square is a little over six miles long. +There are no roads through this solid stretch of grain. Two hundred +men, a thousand horses, and many big machines are needed to work this +wheat-field. +</p> +<p> +Some of the big harvesters that cut and thresh the wheat are drawn by +a traction-engine instead of horses. In running a fifty-horse-power +engine high-priced coal had to be burnt but now the coal grates are +replaced by petroleum burners, and crude coal-oil is the cheap fuel. +This does not make sparks to set the fields on fire like burning coal +or straw and so is safer to use. +</p> +<p> +On large ranches wheat can be grown for less than a cent a pound, +while it has brought two cents or double the money when sold. But +there are not always good crops, as the grain needs plenty of moisture +in the spring when rains are uncertain. +</p> +<p> +The wheat crop of the state has fallen off of late to less than half +the yield of earlier years, but the deep, rich valley soil still grows +grain enough to feed hungry people in Europe, Asia, and Africa, +as well as in our own Union. Great quantities are taken in large +four-masted ships to Liverpool, England, and there made into American +flour. Our own flour-mills turn out thousands of barrels of flour, +and this travels far, too. The first thing picked up in Manila after +Admiral Dewey's victory was a flour sack with a California mill mark. +</p> +<p> +It would need a long, long story to tell how far from home and into +what strange places the yellow kernels of California wheat sometimes +travel, or to picture the odd people who depend upon us for food. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_12"><!-- RULE4 12 --></a> +<h2> + ORCHARD, FARM, AND VINEYARD +</h2> + +<p> +Long ago the Mission Fathers taught the Indians to plant and to take +care of vines and fruit-trees. They built water-works to bring life to +the thirsty trees in the dry summers, and to grow oranges, limes, +and figs, as well as peaches, apricots, and apples. They trained +grape-vines over arbors and trellises round the Mission buildings, and +from the small, black grapes made wine. Olive trees and date-palms did +well at the southern settlements. But most of these orchards died when +the Mission Fathers were no longer allowed to make the Indians work +for the church property, though a few old palms and olive trees are +still standing. +</p> +<p> +During Mexican days each ranch owner raised enough grain or corn and +beans for his own family but planted no fruit, or but little, while +the Americans who came to seek gold thought farming a slow way of +making a living. People soon found out, however, that our fine climate +and rich soil made good crops almost certain, and there was such +demand for fruit and farm products that more and more acres were +cultivated each year. +</p> +<p> +Our leading industry now is farming and fruit-growing, and +California's delicious fresh or cured fruit is sent all over the +world. Large amounts of barley and hops are shipped from here to +Europe, and our state produces almost all the Lima beans used in the +country. +</p> +<p> +The citrus fruits, as oranges, lemons, and pomelos, or "grape-fruit," +are called, grow in the seven southern counties, or in the foothills +on the western slope of the Sierras. The trees cannot endure frost and +must be irrigated in the summer. Orange trees are a pretty sight, with +their shining green leaves, white, sweet-smelling flowers, and the +green or golden fruit. About Christmas-time, when oranges ripen, both +blossoms and fruit may be picked from the same tree. Los Angeles and +Orange County grow most oranges, but San Diego is first in lemon +culture. Half a million trees in that county show the bright yellow +fruit and fragrant blossoms every month in the year. The other +southern counties also raise lemons by the car-load to send east, or +for your lemonade and lemon pies at home. +</p> +<p> +There, too, the olive grows well, that little plum-shaped fruit you +usually see as a green, salt pickle on the table. The Mission Fathers +brought this tree first from Spain, where the poor people live upon +black bread and olives. Olives are picked while green and put in +a strong brine of salt and water to preserve them for eating. Dark +purple ripe olives are also very good prepared the same way. Did you +know that olive-oil is pressed out of ripe olives? The best oil comes +from the first crushing, and the pulp is afterwards heated, when a +second quality of oil is obtained. Olive trees grow very slowly, and +do not fruit for seven years after they are planted. But they live a +hundred years, and bear more olives every season. +</p> +<p> +The black or purple fig which grew in the old Mission gardens bears +fruit everywhere in the state. Either fresh and ripe, or pressed flat +and dried, it is delicious and healthful. White figs like those from +abroad have been raised the last few years, and it is hoped in time to +produce Smyrna figs equal to the imported. +</p> +<p> +While peach orchards blossom and bear fruit six months of the year in +the south, most of this pretty pink-cheeked fruit grows in the great +valleys, or along the Sacramento River. Pears also show their snowy +blossoms and yellow fruit in the valleys and farther north. The +Bartlett pear is sent to all the Eastern states in cold storage cars +kept cool by ice, and also to Europe. +</p> +<p> +The finest apricots are those of that wonderful southern country, +miles and miles of orchards lying round Fresno especially. Yet the +valleys and foot-hills produce plenty, and in the old mining counties +very choice fruit ripens. Apples like the high mountain valleys, where +they get a touch of frost in winter, though there is a cool section of +San Diego County where fine ones are raised. Cherries do well in the +middle and valley regions, the earliest coming from Vacaville, in +Solano County. +</p> +<p> +Grapes grow throughout the state, though the famous raisin vineyards, +where thousands of tons are dried every year, are around Fresno. Most +of the raisins are dried in the sun, but in one factory a hundred tons +of grapes may be dried at one time by steam. The raisins are seeded by +machinery, and packed in pretty boxes to send all over the coast, and +through the states, where once only foreign raisins were used. Many +vineyards in the southern part and middle of the state grow only wine +grapes, California wines, champagne, and brandy having a wide use. +</p> +<p> +Great quantities of fresh fruits are used in the state or sent away, +while the canneries put up immense amounts, also. Canned fruit reaches +many consumers, but it is expensive. Our cured or dried fruit, however +is so cheap and so good that millions of pounds are prepared every +year. Such fruit ripens on the tree and so keeps all its fine flavor. +It is then dried in the sunshine, which not only fits it for long +keeping but turns part of it to sugar. Apricots, peaches, pears, and +cherries are usually cut in halves or stoned before drying. Prunes are +first on the list of cured fruits, and they seem the best to use as +food. The ripe prunes are dipped into a boiling lye to make the skin +tender, then rinsed and spread in the sun a day or two. They are then +allowed to "sweat" to get a good color, are next dipped in boiling +water a minute or two, dried, and finally graded, a certain number to +the pound, and packed in boxes or sacks. +</p> +<p> +Several kinds of nuts grow well in the state. All the so-called +"English" walnuts, with their thin shells, are raised in the south, +Orange County furnishing half the amount we market. Peanuts and +almonds are a good crop there, also, though almond groves are in all +parts of the state. Both paper and thick-shelled almonds are usually +bleached, or whitened, with sulphur smoke to improve their color. +</p> +<p> +Santa Barbara and Ventura are the bean counties of the state, and send +Lima beans away by train-loads, while Orange County grows celery for +the Eastern market. Very high prices are received for this celery and +other vegetables sent from California during the winter season when +fields are covered with snow in the East. +</p> +<p> +And did you know that the state produces a great deal of sugar? Tons +and tons of sugar-beets are grown throughout the farming lands, and +harvested in September. When the juice of these crushed beets is +boiled and refined, it makes a sugar exactly like cane sugar and much +cheaper. One-fifth of the beet is sugar, it is said. +</p> +<p> +Even the dry, worthless mountain sides are valuable to the bee-keeper. +The bees make a delicious honey from the wild, white sage, which grows +where nothing else will live. This sage honey brings the very highest +price. +</p> +<p> +Oats are raised in the coast counties, and corn in the valleys, but +owing to cool nights and dry air the corn seldom makes a good crop. +Orange County, however, claims corn with stalks twenty feet high and +a hundred bushels to the acre. In the south, also, that wonderful +forage-plant, alfalfa, will produce six crops a year by irrigation and +give a ton or more to the acre at each cutting. +</p> +<p> +Along the upper Sacramento River stretch the great hop-fields full +of tall vines covered with light-green tassels. At hop-picking season +many families have a month's picnic, children and all working day +after day in the fields and pulling off the fragrant hops. Indians, +too, are among the best hop-pickers. The dried hops are bleached with +sulphur, baled, and in great quantities sent to Liverpool, where with +California barley they are used in brewing malt liquors. +</p> +<p> +An odd crop is mustard, and at Lompoc, in Santa Barbara County, enough +for the whole country is grown. Both brown and yellow mustard is +cultivated, and the little seeds, almost as fine as gunpowder, are +sold to spice-mills and pickle-factories. +</p> +<p> +Whole farms are taken up with the production of flower-seeds or bulbs, +with acres and acres of calla-lilies, roses, carnations, and violets. +The tall pampas-grass, with its long feathery plumes, gives a +profitable crop. Indeed, one can scarcely name a fruit, flower, or +tree that will not thrive and grow to perfection in our mild climate +and rich soil. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_13"><!-- RULE4 13 --></a> +<h2> + THE STORY OF THE NAVEL ORANGE +</h2> + +<p> +Who has not enjoyed a juicy navel orange, while wondering at its +peculiar shape and lack of troublesome seeds? Yet few people know that +this particular variety has brought millions of dollars into our state +and made orange growing our third greatest industry. +</p> +<p> +Read this story of the seedless orange, this "golden apple of +California," which was first cultivated by Luther Tibbets, of +Riverside, and learn how Southern California has profited by its navel +orange crops. +</p> +<p> +Nearly thirty years ago Mr. Tibbets came from New York to this state +and took up free government land near what is now the beautiful city +of Riverside. He was one of the half-dozen pioneer fruit-growers +of that region, and had noticed at the San Gabriel Mission how well +orange trees grew there. His wife and daughter waited in Washington, +D.C., until a home should be ready here for them, and they often sent +Mr. Tibbets plants and seeds from the Department of Agriculture. To +this Department and its gardens in Washington, many curious plants +are forwarded from other countries for growing and experiment in the +United States. New kinds of grain or fruits are carefully cultivated +and watched by the Department, and from it farmers can always get +seeds or cuttings to try on their own farms. +</p> +<p> +Mrs. Tibbets often visited the Department gardens, and in 1873 she +wrote to her husband that she could get him some fine orange trees if +he would promise the government to take great care of them and to keep +them apart from other trees till they fruited. Of course he agreed to +give them special attention, and therefore that December he received +three small, rooted orange trees. A cow chewed up one of these, but +for five years the others were watched and tended. Then sweet white +blossoms appeared on each little tree, and afterwards two oranges, +like hard green bullets at first. Finally, in January, 1879, Mr. +Tibbets picked four large, well-flavored, golden oranges, the first +seedless ones ever grown outside of Brazil. +</p> +<p> +From the hot swamps of the tropical country at Bahia the United States +Consul had sent six cuttings of this peculiar orange to be planted +in the Washington gardens. All died but the two at Riverside. In 1880 +they bore half a bushel of fruit, and the new seedless oranges were +talked of throughout Southern California. The other orange growers +had been cultivating "seedlings," trees which bore smaller fruit, with +many bitter seeds and a thick skin. Many of these growers now cut back +their seedlings to bare limbs, and grafted the new orange on these +branches. This is called "budding," and is done by cutting off a thin +slip of bark with a tiny folded-up leaf-bud on it, inserting the graft +in the branch to be budded and securing it there with wax to keep the +air out. The little bud drinks in sap from the tree stem, and grows +and blossoms true to its own mother tree. +</p> +<p> +There were few orange groves then, but soon nearly all were budded +to the new kind, seventy-five acres being so changed on the Baldwin +Ranch; and when these trees began to bear, some five years afterwards, +people were much excited over the seedless fruit. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Orange Tree with fruit and blossoms." +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1085a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1085a.jpg" width="150" height="143" border="0" + alt="AN ORANGE TREE WITH FRUIT AND BLOSSOMS."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">AN ORANGE TREE WITH <br>FRUIT AND BLOSSOMS. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Such high prices were paid for these oranges at first, that orange +growing boomed all over Southern California. People thought their +fortunes were made when they set out a few acres of small budded trees +they had paid a dollar or more apiece for. Whole towns sprang up in +dry treeless valleys where only cattle and sheep had pastured, +and land worth only twenty-five dollars an acre before the orange +excitement, sold quickly for eight hundred and a thousand when planted +with trees. The towns of Pomona, Redlands, Monrovia, and others in +the orange localities were unknown before 1885, and grew to several +thousand population in a few years. Everybody talked of the great +profit in orange growing, and people who had nurseries of young trees +grown from navel buds made fortunes. +</p> +<p> +At this day thousands of acres of seedless oranges are in full bearing +and no one buys the old kinds. Hundreds of car-loads of the seedlings +are not even picked, and ninety per cent of the eighteen thousand +car-loads which make the season's orange crop are navel oranges. Over +forty-five millions of dollars are now invested in the growing and +marketing of this remarkable fruit. +</p> +<p> +At Riverside, the home of the orange, the two original Washington +navel trees still stand. Mr. Tibbets guarded them for years, had them +fenced with high latticework, and seldom allowed any one to touch +them. He refused ten thousand dollars for them, since for months he +sold hundreds of dollars' worth of buds from these parent trees. These +two trees and their large family have caused thousands of people to +come to the state, and have built up Southern California wonderfully. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_14"><!-- RULE4 14 --></a> +<h2> + THE LEMON +</h2> + +<p> +For many years people who use that sour but necessary fruit, the +lemon, thought that only the little yellow ones which came from the +far-away island of Sicily were good. The men who import foreign fruits +always said so; and in spite of the fact that the larger California +lemon was more acid, of as good flavor, smooth skinned, and golden, +people believed the Mediterranean groves produced the best. But, at +last, our warm, dry air, good soil, and plenty of water, together with +care and skill while growing and packing, have made California lemons +the most in demand. These lemons keep well, and bear shipping and long +journeys better than the imported fruit. +</p> +<p> +Citrus fruits, as the orange and lemon are called, do well in all the +southern counties, and San Diego County boasts of not only the largest +lemon grove in California, but in the world. This is a thousand-acre +tract overlooking San Diego Bay and cultivated by the Chula Vista +colony. It was once a pasture given up to wandering bands of cattle +and sheep. There was little water, and no one ever thought these dry +mesa lands would one day be a beautiful garden spot, green with the +shining lemon leaves, and golden with fruit. +</p> +<p> +A company was formed to develop this forty-two square miles of land, +and to get water for irrigation, since all the trees must have little +streams of water round their thirsty roots three or four times during +the dry summer. A great dam was constructed on the Sweetwater River, +near Chula Vista, and a reservoir built. Water was piped from this to +the lemon groves, which are about a hundred feet below the reservoir, +and from May to September the trees are irrigated. This is done by +ploughing furrows on each side of a row of trees and turning small +rills of water slowly down them till the ground is soaked around the +tree roots. No one thought the great reservoir would ever be empty, +but two winters with but little rain made it necessary to put down +many wells in the dry bed of the Sweetwater River, and from these a +strong steady flow of millions of gallons is pumped into the water +pipes. So this great lemon orchard is always sure of water enough, +returning the gift later in generous golden measure. +</p> +<p> +One may pick lemon blossoms, ripe and green fruit every month in the +year from the same tree, but most of the crop ripens from November to +June. +</p> +<p> +Lemons are carefully cut from the tree, and usually picked by size, a +ring being slipped over them, without regard to their ripeness. They +grow so thick on the tree that a man can pick more than twenty boxes +a day. In preparing it for market the fruit "sweats," as it is called, +in airy boxes, for a month in winter and ten days in summer, and +ripens and colors during this process. Then each lemon is wiped +dry and clean, wrapped separately in tissue-paper, and packed for +shipment. The cost of a box of lemons from the tree to the railroad is +about thirty-five cents. +</p> +<p> +Thousands of car-loads are shipped to the Eastern and Middle states, +while the Pacific Coast is a never-failing market. +</p> +<p> +Small, imperfect, and bruised fruit goes to the citric acid factory +near the packing-houses. From these oil of lemon, lemon sugar, and +clear green citric-acid crystals are made, and the crushed waste is +returned to the grove and ploughed in about the trees as a fertilizer. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_15"><!-- RULE4 15 --></a> +<h2> + FLOWERS AND PLANTS +</h2> + +<p> +"When California was wild," says John Muir, "it was one sweet +bee-garden throughout its entire length, and from the snowy Sierra to +the ocean." +</p> +<p> +There were so many yellow poppies in this great unfenced garden, that +the Spanish sailing along the coast called it the "Land of Fire" from +the golden flowers covering the hills. Near Pasadena, in Southern +California, these poppy fields may still be seen glowing so brightly +in the sun that you do not wonder at the name "Cape Las Flores," or +Flower Cape, which the sailors also gave to this part of the country. +</p> +<p> +The poppy is our best-known wild flower, planted by Mother Nature +before white men ever visited these shores. When the Spanish +settled here they called the poppy <i>copa de oro</i>, or cup of gold. +The gold hunters spoke of it as the California gold flower, and sent +the pressed poppies home in their letters. But its correct name is +the Eschscholtzia (esh-sholt'si-a), from the name of a German +botanist and naturalist, who studied the plant and wrote about it +almost a hundred years ago. +</p> +<p> +From February to May the poppies are most plentiful, but a few may be +found almost every month in the year. Have you noticed the finely cut +green leaves, and the pointed green nightcap that covers each bud till +the morning sunshine coaxes off the cap and unfolds the four satiny +golden petals? The flowers love the sun and close up on dark, cloudy +days, or if brought into the house. But put them in a sunny window the +next morning, and you may watch the cups of gold open to the light. +</p> +<p> +Some of the poppies are a deep orange-color, while others are a pale +yellow. And as you walk through the fields you may pick a hundred at +each step, so thick do the plants grow. The wild bees find a yellow +dust called pollen or "bee-bread" in the poppy, the same golden powder +that rubs off on your nose, when you put it too close to this cup of +gold or to lilies. +</p> +<p> +Then in this "unfenced garden" were also the baby blue-eyes, whose +pretty pale-blue blossoms come early in the spring, each one with a +drop of honey at the foot of its honey path, as the black lines on its +petals are called. +</p> +<p> +Can you name twenty kinds of wild flowers? Around San Francisco and +the bay counties you will count, after the poppy and baby blue-eyes, +the shining yellow buttercup, the blue and yellow lupines that grow in +the sand, the tall thistle whose sharp, prickly leaves and thorny +red blossoms spell "Let-me-alone," the blue flag-lilies and red +paint-brush, yellow cream-cups, and wild mustard, and an orange +pentstemon. These with many yellow compositæ or flowers like the +dandelion, you will find growing on the windy hills and dry, sunny +places. Hiding away in quiet corners are the blue-eyed grass, and +a wild purple hyacinth, the scarlet columbine swinging its golden +tassels, shy blue larkspur, a small yellow sunflower, and wild pink +roses. Among the ferns in shady, wet nooks are white trilliums and a +delicate pink bleeding-heart, while the wild blue violets and yellow +pansies love the warm, rocky hillside. +</p> +<p> +Mariposas, or butterfly tulips of many colors, grow in the foot-hills +and mountains. Perhaps our most beautiful wild flowers are the lilies, +of which we have over a dozen kinds. In the redwood forests there is a +tall, lovely pink lily, and many brown-spotted yellow tiger-lilies. Up +in the mountain pines a snowy white Washington lily sometimes covers +a mountain side with its tall stems bearing dozens of sweet waxen +blossoms. In the wet, swampy places bright red, and many small orange +lilies bloom in late summer. +</p> +<p> +In the high Sierras are found strange and pretty blossoms unlike +the flowers of valleys and sea-coast. There you will see the +mountain-heather with pink, purple, or dainty white bells, the +goldenrod, and gentians blue as the sky. Strangest of all is the +snow-plant. This curious thing sends up a thick, fleshy spike a foot +or so in height and set closely with bright scarlet flowers. It grows +where the snow has just melted round the fir trees, and leaf, stem, +and blossom are all the same glowing red. +</p> +<p> +Most of the valley and coast wild-flowers bloom and ripen their seeds +before the dry summer begins. Such plants die and wither away in the +heat, but their seeds are safe on the warm ground till fall rains soak +the earth and set them growing again. In the high mountains a thick +blanket of snow covers the sleeping seeds till May or June, and then +sunshine wakes them once more. +</p> +<p> +No doubt you have seen many of our shrubs or tall bush-plants in your +vacations. Do you remember the sweet creamy white azaleas and the +buckeyes that grow along the creeks in the redwoods? And the feathery +blue blossoms of the wild lilac crowding in close thickets up +the hillsides? One of our shrubs is a holiday visitor, the +Christmas-berry, whose bright-red clusters trim your house at that +gay, happy season. The manzanita is another pretty bush, with pink +bells that ripen to small scarlet apples in the fall. +</p> +<p> +Usually, these and other shrubs cover the hillsides with a thick, +matted tangle of stems and branches almost impossible to get through. +This chaparral, as the Spanish called it, clothes the foot-hills and +mountain sides with a close growth through which deer and bears alone +can travel and make trails or runways. Great stretches of buckthorn in +the north, and of sage-brush in the south, cover the wild lands, while +in the sandy desert tall, prickly cactus, yucca, and mesquite grow +with the sage-brush in the blazing sun. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: In A Mission Garden" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1103a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1103a.jpg" width="146" height="150" border="0" + alt="IN A MISSION GARDEN."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">IN A MISSION GARDEN. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Only a few of California's wild plants and flowers have been now +called to your notice. But children have sharp eyes, and you will +find many more to inquire about in your vacation days. Then +the blackberries and thimble-berries will be ripe, and the pink +salmon-berry in the redwoods. Perhaps you will look for and dig up the +soaproot, that onion-like bulb of one of the lily family with which +the Indians make a soapy lather to wash their clothes. Let us hope +you will know and keep away from the "poison-oak," the low bush with +pretty red leaves, for its leaves are apt to make your skin swell up +and blister wherever they touch you. +</p> +<p> +What a long and pleasant story might be told you of our state's real +gardens! Perhaps your teacher will give you an hour to talk about your +home gardens, and to see how much you can tell about them. You may +have flowers the year round, if you live on the coast, or in the warm +valleys where no Jack Frost comes with his icy breath to kill the +tender plants. In such genial climates roses and geraniums bloom all +year, and only rest when the gardener cuts them back; and most of the +shrubs and trees in parks and gardens are always fresh and green. +</p> +<p> +Florists who raise flowers to sell find that here they can grow the +choicest and finest carnations, roses, and all the garden blossoms you +know so well. Many of these florists deal only in flower-seeds, and +bulbs or roots of the lilies to send to the Eastern states or abroad, +where people greatly prize California flowers. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Palms over 100 years old at Los Angeles" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1085b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1085b.jpg" width="142" height="150" border="0" + alt="PALMS OVER 100 YEARS OLD AT LOS ANGELES."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">PALMS OVER 100 YEARS OLD <br>AT LOS ANGELES. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p> +Plants and trees from all parts of the world thrive here, also. You +have seen the palms, the tall sword-palm with its great spike of snowy +bloom in the spring, the fan-palm whose dried and trimmed leaves +are really used for fans, and, perhaps, the date-palm. This tree +was planted round the Missions by the Padres, and some, more than +a hundred years old, are still standing at the San Gabriel Mission. +These, and the magnolia with its large creamy blossoms, as well as the +graceful pepper-tree, are natives of warm, southern lands, while the +eucalyptus, or gum-tree, was brought here from Australia. +</p> +<p> +Look round, children, as you walk to and from school, or in the park, +and try to know and name the green things growing there, the flowers +and plants sent to make our world a pleasant place to live in. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_16"><!-- RULE4 16 --></a> +<h2> + THE BIG TREES AND LUMBERING +</h2> + +<p> +The largest trees in the world are those forest giants of California +which grow on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevadas, and nowhere +else on the globe. People carelessly call these grand trees "redwoods" +or "big trees," but their family name is Sequoia, an Indian chief's +name. When the trees were first discovered, in 1853, accounts of their +height and size were sent to England. Supposing this giant to be a +new tree, it was there christened <i>Wellingtonia</i>, and also +<i>gigantea</i> for its immense measurements. While Americans were +trying to have it called <i>Washingtonia</i>, a famous Frenchman who +knew all about trees decided that the specimen sent him was certainly +a sequoia, as named by a German professor some six years before this +time. So the tree was called <i>sequoia gigantea</i> and quietly went +on growing, unmindful of the four nations who had quarrelled over its +christening. Why, indeed, should it bother its lofty head with the +chatter of people whose countries were unknown when this mighty tree +was full grown? For these sequoias are the oldest of living objects +and have probably been growing for four thousand years. How do we know +this? Well, when a fallen trunk is sawed across, one can see rings in +the wood, and it is thought that each ring is a year's growth. John +Muir counted over four thousand of these annual rings on the stump of +one of the Kings River trees. +</p> +<p> +These fine old trees grow in groves, and of the nine or ten groves +the Calaveras and Mariposa are the best known. The Calaveras group of +nearly a hundred mighty trees was the first one discovered, and four +trees here are over three hundred feet high. The fallen "Father of +the Forest" must have been much higher, for it measures a hundred feet +round its trunk at the root end. A man can ride on horseback for two +hundred feet through its hollow trunk as it lies on the ground. Many +of the standing trees hollowed out by fires are large enough, used as +cabins, to live in. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustrations: 'Wawona' and 'The Grizzly Giant' trees" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1106a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1106a.jpg" width="150" height="130" border="0" + alt="'WAWONA' (28 feet in diameter)."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">"WAWONA"<br>(28 feet in diameter). + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><br> <a href="images/lg1106b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1106b.jpg" width="150" height="130" border="0" + alt="THE GRIZZLY GIANT (33 feet in diameter)."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">THE GRIZZLY GIANT<br>(33 feet in diameter). + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +The Mariposa grove of Big Trees, being not far from Yosemite Valley, +is the best known, as thousands of tourists visit both places. There +is a big tree at Mariposa for every day in the year, and two very +wonderful ones, the Grizzly Giant and Wawona. Stage-coaches drive into +the grove through the tree Wawona, which was bored and burned out +so as to make an opening ten by twelve feet. A wall of wood ten feet +thick on each side of this opening supports the living tree. The great +Grizzly Giant towers a hundred feet without a branch, and twice that +height above the first immense branches that are six feet through. +This was, no doubt, an old tree when Columbus discovered America, yet +it is alive and green and still growing. +</p> +<p> +The largest tree in the world is the General Sherman, in Sequoia +National Park, and it is thirty-five feet in diameter. This means that +the stump of the tree, if smoothed off, would make a floor on which +thirty people might dance, or your whole class be seated. You can +scarcely imagine what a mighty column such a tree is, with its rich +red-brown bark, fluted like a column, too, and with its crown of +feathery green branches and foliage. The bark is a foot or two thick. +The trees are evergreens, and conifers, or cone-bearers. Sequoia cones +are two or three inches long and full of small seeds. The Douglas +squirrel gets most of these seeds, but there are still seedlings and +saplings or young trees enough to keep the race alive in most of the +groves. +</p> +<p> +These groves of wonderful and rare trees are protected as National +Parks in the Sequoia and Grant groves, and Mariposa belongs to the +state. It is against the law to cut the trees in those groves. Their +worst enemy is fire, and a troop of cavalry is sent every year to +guard them, and to keep out the sheep-herders, whose flocks would +destroy the underbrush and young trees. But, unfortunately, lumbermen +have put up mills near the Fresno and Kings River groups, and, wasting +more than they use, are destroying magnificent trees thousands of +years old in order to make shingles. When nature has taken such good +care of this rare and wonderful tree, the Sierra Giant, men should try +to preserve the groves unharmed in all their beauty. +</p> +<p> +Another <i>sequoia</i> grows in great forests along the Coast Range +from Santa Cruz to the northern state-line, and beyond into Oregon. +This is the <i>sequoia sempervirens</i>, the Latin name meaning always +green. Redwood is its common name, and the lumber for our frame or +wooden houses is cut from this tree. Millions of feet of this redwood +lumber are shipped from the northern counties of the state every year, +up to Alaska or down to Central and South America. It is also sent far +across the Pacific to the Hawaiian and Philippine islands and to China +and Australia. +</p> +<p> +While the <i>sequoia gigantea</i> delights in a clear sky and hot +sunshine, its brother, the <i>sempervirens</i>, prefers a cool +sea-coast climate, offering frequent baths of fog. There is also a +difference in the size of these trees; the redwood is often three +hundred feet high, but is less in girth than its relative in the +Sierras. There is not much underbrush and little sunshine in the cool, +green redwood forests, each tree rising tall and stately for a hundred +feet without branches, while the green tops seem almost to touch the +sky as one looks up. Through the woods one hears the blue jay scream +and chatter, and the tap, tap of the woodpecker as he drills holes in +the bark to fill with acorns for his winter store. +</p> +<p> +When the lumberman looks at these beautiful forests, he sees only many +logs containing many thousand feet of lumber, which he must get out +the easiest and cheapest way. He only chooses the finest and largest +trunks, and there is great waste in cutting these. The men begin +to saw the tree some eight or ten feet from the ground, and soon it +trembles and falls with a mighty crash, often snapping off other trees +in its way to the ground. After all the selected trees have fallen, +fires are started to burn off the branches and underbrush so that the +men can work easier. This fire only chars the outside bark of the big, +green logs, but it kills all the young saplings, and leaves the once +beautiful forest a waste of blackened logs and gray ashes. When the +fire burns itself out, the logs are usually sawed with a cross-cut saw +into sixteen-foot lengths, since in that form they are easy to handle. +Then oxen or horses haul them out; or sometimes a wire cable is +fastened to them by iron "dogs," or stakes, and a little stationary +engine pulls them away to the siding at the railroad track. Here they +are rolled on flat-cars, fastened with a big iron chain around the +four or six logs on the car, and taken on the logging train to the +mill-pond. They lie soaking in the water until drawn up to the keen +saws of the sawmill that cut and slice the wood like cheese. The bark +and outside is carved off as you would cut the crust off bread, and +then sharp, circular saws cut boards and planks till the log is used +up, and the log-carriage lifts another to its place. As the shining +steel bites into the wood the noise almost deafens you and the mill +shakes with the thunder of log-carriage and feeders. Useless ends, +slabs, and refuse are burnt in the sawdust pit, where the fires never +go out. Very much of the tree is wasted and all the limbs. The redwood +tree has so much life and strength, however, that it sends up bright +green sprouts around the burnt stump, and standing trees charred outside +to the tops will have new branches the next season. In the older forests tall +young trees are often seen growing in a ring round an empty spot, the +long-dead stump having rotted away. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Big trees at Felton, Santa Cruz Co." +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1118.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1118.jpg" width="150" height="130" border="0" + alt="BIG TREES AT FELTON, SANTA CRUZ CO."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">BIG TREES AT FELTON, <br>SANTA CRUZ CO. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Near Santa Cruz is a grove of large and beautiful redwoods, many +of the trees being over three hundred feet high and from forty +to sixty-five feet around the base of the trunk. The Giant is the +largest, and three other immense ones are named for Generals Grant, +Sherman, and Fremont. In 1846 General Fremont found this grove, and +camped, on a rainy winter night, in the hollow trunk of the tree +bearing his name. Here is also seen a group of eleven very tall trees +growing in a circle around an old stump. +</p> +<p> +In the Sierras, both in the <i>sequoia</i> groves and forests above +the Big-Tree region, are very large sugar-pines, red firs, and +yellow-pine trees, all of which make excellent lumber. Great forests +of these trees, with cedars almost as large as the redwoods, are in +the northern counties also. You may have seen sugar-pine cones which +are over a foot long, the largest of all found, while redwood cones +are the smallest. Another great tree is the Douglas spruce, the king +of spruce trees, growing in both Sierra Nevada and Coast ranges. +</p> +<p> +The California laurel, or bay tree, with its beautiful, shining green +leaves, and the madroño, the slender, red-barked tree on the hillsides +you must have noticed in your trips to the country, as well as our +fine valley and mountain oaks. Try to learn the kinds of trees and +study their leaves, blossoms, and fruit, and you will find every one +a friend well worth knowing. Then you will wish to save them from fire +and the lumberman's axe, especially the rare and old <i>sequoias</i>. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_17"><!-- RULE4 17 --></a> +<h2> + OUR BIRDS +</h2> + +<p> +More than three hundred kinds of these dear feathered friends and +visitors live in California. Along the sea-shore, in the great valleys +and the mountain-forests and meadows, even in the dry, hot desert, the +birds, our shy and merry neighbors, are at home. In many parts of +the state they find sunshine and green trees the year round, and food +always at hand. Yet sparrows, robins, and woodpeckers will stay in the +snowed-in groves of the Sierras all winter, contentedly chirping or +singing in spite of the bitter cold. +</p> +<p> +If you know these wanderers of wood and field, these birds of sea and +shore, and their interesting habits, you will wish to protect them +from stone or gun, and their nests from the egg collector. You will +listen to the lark and linnet, and be glad that the happy songster +trilling such sweet notes is free to fly where he wishes, and is +not pining in a cage. And you, little girl, will not encourage the +destruction of these pretty creatures by wearing a sea-gull or part of +some dead bird on your hat. +</p> +<p> +To become better acquainted with birds, let us call them before us by +classes, beginning with our sea-birds and those round the bays and on +the coast. Some of these not only swim but dive in the salt waters, +and to this class of divers belong the grebe, loon, murre, and puffin. +They dive at the flash of a gun, and after what seems a long time, +come up far away from the spot the hunter aimed at. These birds +usually nest on bare, rocky cliffs near the ocean, or on islands like +the Farallones, and their large green eggs hatch out nestlings that +are ugly and awkward and helpless on land. But they ride the great +ocean-breakers, or dive into their clear depths easily and gracefully; +and as they live upon fish or small sea-creatures, the divers only +seek land to roost at night and to raise their young. +</p> +<p> +Next come the gulls, who belong to a class known as "long-winged +swimmers." They have strong wings and fly great distances, and with +their webbed feet swim well, too. Most of the sea-gulls are white with +a gray coat on their backs, but they look snowy-white as they fly. You +may see them walking about the wharves, or perching on roofs and piles +watching for food, and seeming very tame as they pick up bits of bread +or the refuse floating in the water. They follow steamers for miles, +scarcely moving their wings as they float in the air; and if you throw +a cracker from the deck, some gull will make a swift swoop and snatch +it before the cracker reaches the water. +</p> +<p> +Far out on the Pacific the albatross sails proudly on his broad wings, +and cares nothing for high winds or storms. He rests and sleeps on the +billows at night with his little companions, the stormy petrels. He is +the largest and strongest of our birds of flight, the very king of the +sea. The stormy petrels are not much larger than a swallow. Sailors +call them. "Mother Carey's chickens," and are sure a storm is +coming up when petrels follow the ship. The albatross, petrel, and +a gull-like bird called a shearwater belong to the "tube-nosed +swimmers," on account of their curious long beaks. +</p> +<p> +Along the coast, and wading in the shallow waters around the bays, are +some strange birds known as pelicans and shags. They are good fishers, +and drive the darting, finny fellows before them as they wade in the +water till they can see and gobble them up. Most waders have under +their beaks a skin-pocket deep enough to hold a fish while carrying +it to their nestlings, or making ready to swallow it. All of these +sea-birds raise their young as far from the shore and from hunters +as possible. Great flocks of them roost on islands fifteen or twenty +miles out in the ocean, and fly into the bays every morning. +</p> +<p> +Wild ducks, geese, the herons, mud-hens, sandpipers, and curlews are +marsh and shore birds that feed and wade in the shallow salt water, +and nest on the banks or, like the heron, in trees near the bay. The +heron is a frog-catcher, and he will stand very still on his long legs +and patiently wait till the frog, thinking him gone, swims near. Then +one dart of the long bill captures froggy, and the heron waits for +another. You know the red-head, green mallard, canvas-back, and small +teal ducks, no doubt, and have seen the flocks of wild geese flying +and calling in the sky, or standing like patches of snow as they feed +in the marshes or grain-fields. +</p> +<p> +Down on the mud-flats at low tide you see birds called rails, and also +"kill-dee" plovers. The shoveller ducks are there, too fishing up with +broad, flat beaks little crabs and such creatures as are in the mud, +straining out mud and water, but swallowing the rest. All these birds +are "waders" and delight in mud and cold salt water. They are usually +quiet, or make only strange, shrill cries. +</p> +<p> +In the sunny fields and woods we shall find many of the land-birds, +and first comes a family whose habits are so like those of chickens +that they are called "scratchers." These birds depend for food upon +seeds and bugs or worms they scratch out of the ground. Up in +the Sierra sugar-pines and fir-woods lives the largest of these +"scratchers," the brown grouse. He is a shy creature, rising out of +his feeding-ground with a great whirring of wings and out of sight +before the hunter can fire at him. His peculiar cry, or "drumming," as +it is called, sounds through the woods like tapping hard on a hollow +log. His equally shy neighbor is the mountain-quail, while through +the farming lands and all along the hillsides the valley—quail are +plenty. Perhaps you have seen a happy family of these speckled brown +birds. Papa quail has a black crest on his head, and he calls "Look +right here" from the wrong side of the road to fool you, while Mamma +and her little, cunning chicks scatter like flying brown leaves in the +brush. After the danger is past, you hear her low call to bring them +round her again. In the desert and sage-brush part of the state the +sage-hen, another "scratcher," runs swiftly through the thickets, but +many are caught and brought in by the Indians. +</p> +<p> +Our birds of prey are eagles, vultures, hawks, owls, and the +turkey-buzzards, those big black scavengers that hang in the air. In +circles high above woods and fields some of these birds of prey sweep +on broad wings, searching with keen sight for their food in some dead +animal far below. The California condor, a great black vulture-like +bird, is almost extinct, and is only found in the highest mountains. +It is very large of wing, and strong enough, it is said, to carry off +a sheep. Both golden and bald eagles nest in tall trees in the wildest +parts of the state. The chicken-hawk, whose swift sailing over the +poultry-yard calls out loud squawking from the frightened hens, +you have often seen, and the wise-looking brown owls, too. A small +burrowing owl lives in the squirrel holes, and you may catch him +easily in the daytime, when he cannot see. +</p> +<p> +The road-runner is of the cuckoo family of birds. It seldom flies, but +runs swiftly along the roads, or in the desert, and is said to kill +rattlesnakes by placing a ring of thorny cactus leaves around the +snake as it lies asleep. The rattler is then pecked to death, since it +cannot get out of its prickly cage. This fowl is like a slender brown +hen in size. +</p> +<p> +In the redwoods you hear the tap, tap, of the "carpenter" woodpecker, +with his black coat and gay red cap. He drills holes in the bark of a +tree with his strong beak and then fits an acorn neatly into each safe +little storehouse. It is thought that worms and grubs fatten while +living in these acorns, so that the woodpecker always has a meal ready +in the winter when the ground is wet, or the squirrels have carried +off the acorns under the trees. +</p> +<p> +Humming-birds, or "hummers," as the boys call them, are plenty in city +and country and so fearless that they will take a bath in the spray +of the garden-hose, or dart their long bills in the fuchsias almost +within your reach. The bill shields a double tongue, which gets not +only honey, but small insects from the flower or off the leaves. The +humming-bird's tiny nest is a soft, round basket, not much bigger than +half a walnut-shell, and holding two eggs, which are like small-white +beans. Bits of moss and gray cobwebs are woven in this nest till it +looks like the branch itself; and here the little mother in her plain +brown dress hatches out and feeds the baby "hummers." Her husband has +glistening ruby feathers at his throat and green spots on his head and +back that glow in the sun like jewels. +</p> +<p> +The highest class of birds is the "perchers," and many friends of +yours belong to this. There are two families, however, of perchers, +those that call and the song-birds. Calling over and over their +peculiar note, the pewees, flycatchers, and king-birds, fly through +the forests. The crow and blue jay belong to the singers, you will +be surprised to hear. And what a crowd of these song-birds there +are trilling and warbling in the sunshine! Have you ever watched the +meadow-lark singing as he sits on guard on the fence, while the rest +of his brown-coated yellow-vested flock run along the field picking up +seeds and insects? +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Baby Yellow Warblers (birds)" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1133b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1133b.jpg" width="150" height="135" border="0" + alt="BABY YELLOW WARBLERS."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">BABY YELLOW WARBLERS. + <br>From photographs <br>by Elizabeth Grinnell. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Then there are the linnets, or "redheads," who sing their sweet, +merry tunes all summer, and if they do take a cherry or two the farmer +should not grumble. They destroy many bugs and caterpillars and eat +weed-seeds that might trouble the fruit-grower more than the missing +cherries. The yellow warbler, sometimes called the wild canary, flits +through bush and tree and trills its gay notes in town and country. +Song-sparrows, thrushes, and bluebirds warble far and near, while the +red-winged blackbird makes music in wet, swampy places. The robin, +who comes to city gardens in the winter, has a summer home in the +mountains or redwoods. There, too, the saucy jay screams and chatters, +and flashes his blue wings as he flies, scolding all the time. +</p> +<p> +In Southern California, among the orange groves or in gardens, the +mocking-bird trills in sweet, liquid notes his wonderful song. He +mimics, too, many sounds he hears, and sometimes when caged will +whistle tunes or say words. The mocker can crow or cackle like the +chickens, or mew like the cat. Then he will whistle clear and loud +till dogs or boys answer his call. When they find themselves fooled, +it is said, he mimics a laugh. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Young Towhee bird" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1133a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1133a.jpg" width="150" height="140" border="0" + alt="YOUNG TOWHEE."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">YOUNG TOWHEE. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +From April to July the birds are busy, nesting, feeding their +families, or teaching them to fly. Many eggs never hatch, and some +are destroyed by wild animals. Boys often rob a whole nest to have one +little blown egg in their collections. Then again the mother is killed +and her brood starves to death. When the parent birds are teaching the +nestlings to fly, cats also catch the little ones. So you see the poor +feathered things have many enemies. +</p> +<p> +Let us try to protect the birds, and to let them live happy lives +in freedom. Each one will thank you, either with sweet songs or with +being a beautiful thing to see on land or ocean. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_18"><!-- RULE4 18 --></a> +<h2> + OUR WILD ANIMALS +</h2> + +<p> +Once upon a time, when the Spanish owned this state and called it +their province of Alta California, there were great herds of antelope +feeding on the grassy plains, and at every little stream elk and deer +and big grizzly bears came down to drink. No fences had been built, +and the wild animals had never heard a rifle-shot. Free and fearless +they ranged valley and hillside, or made their dens in the thick +brush, or "chaparral," as the Spanish called it. +</p> +<p> +Indian hunters watched the paths over which these wild creatures +travelled to water, and killed deer and antelope with their arrows. +But these hunters were afraid of grizzly bears, for an arrow in Mr. +Bear's thick hide only made him cross, and with one hug, or even a +light blow from his paw, he could cripple the poor Indian. So in those +early days the old bears came year after year, and carried off sheep +and cattle. The simple folks did not even try to kill them. Indeed, +many of the red men believed that very bad Indians were punished by +being turned into grizzly bears when they died, and they would not +hurt their brothers, they said. +</p> +<p> +When Father Serra's Mission people were starving at Monterey, the +Padre learned that at a place called Bear Valley near by, there were +many grizzlies which the Indians would not kill. He sent Spanish +soldiers there, and they shot so many bears that the hungry Mission +family had meat enough to last till a ship came from Mexico with +supplies. +</p> +<p> +Of all flesh-eating animals this grizzly bear is the largest and +strongest. He can knock down a bull with his great paws, or kill and +carry off a horse. He can live on wild berries and acorns with grass +and roots he digs out of the ground, yet fresh meat suits him best, +and he prefers a calf, which he holds as a cat does a mouse. +</p> +<p> +Nothing but stock was raised in California in those days so long +ago, and cattle were counted by the thousands and sheep by tens of +thousands. Then the grizzly and cinnamon, or brown, bear feasted all +the time on stray calves and yearlings. Every spring and fall the +cattle, which had roamed almost wild in the pastures, were "rounded +up" by the cowboys, or vaqueros. After the work of picking out each +ranchero's stock and branding the young cattle was over, the vaqueros +thought it fine fun to lasso a bear,—some old fellow, perhaps, +who had been helping himself to the calves. It is told that one big +cinnamon bear, while quietly feeding on acorns, looked up to find +three or four cow-boys on their ponies in a circle around him. They +spurred the trembling ponies as close to him as they dared, and yelled +at the tops of their voices. The great brute sat up on his haunches +and faced them, growling and snarling. One vaquero sent his rope +flying through the air, and the loop settled over a big, hairy fore +paw. Then the bear dropped on all fours and made a jump at the pony, +which got out of his reach. Another Mexican threw a lasso and caught +the bear's hind foot; and as he sat up again a third noose dropped +over the other fore paw. Then the poor trapped creature, growling, +snarling, and rolling over and over, began a tug of war with the +lariats and the ponies. Once a rope broke, and horse and rider tumbled +in front of the bear. He made a quick, savage jump, but was pulled +back by the other ropes. Then Mr. Bear sat up straight and tugged so +hard that another lariat broke and sent the saddle and rider over the +pony's head. With one sweep of his paw the bear smashed the saddle, +but the cow-boy saved himself by running to an oak tree. At last Mr. +Bear was getting the best of the fight so plainly, and had pulled the +frightened ponies so near him, that the man who was thrown off ended +the poor animal's struggles with a rifle-ball. +</p> +<p> +A Chinese sheep-herder tells this funny story about a bear: "Me lun +out, see what matta; me see sheep all bely much scared, bely much lun, +bely much jump. Big black bear jump over fence, come light for me. Me +so flighten me know nothin', then me scleam e-e-e-e so loud, and lun +at bear till bear get scared too and lun away." +</p> +<p> +A few grizzlies are still found in the Sierras, and black and brown +bears are often seen with their playful little cubs. The small +fellows are easily tamed and may be taught many tricks. They will live +contentedly in a bear-pit, or even if chained up, and as most of you +know, they like peanuts and pop-corn well enough to beg for them. +</p> +<p> +The panther, or mountain-lion, is another large flesh-eating animal +which makes his home in the thick woods conveniently neighboring the +farmers' corrals and pastures. Not long ago a boy in Marin County, +who was sent to look after some ponies, saw a big yellow dog, as he +thought, "worrying" one of the colts. When he came nearer he found +it was a wicked-looking, catlike creature, and knew it must be a +California lion. He had nothing with him but a heavy whip. The panther +left the wounded colt and crouched ready to spring at the boy, but he +was on the alert and struck it a terrible blow across the eyes with +his whip, and then another and another. Half-blinded and whining with +pain, the panther turned tail and ran away, while the boy's pony, +trembling and snorting with fright, galloped home with his brave +rider. +</p> +<p> +In one of the mountain counties a woman, hearing her chickens +squawking one day at noon, ran out to find what seemed a big dog among +them with a hen in his mouth. She rushed straight at him with a broom, +when the animal turned. She found it was a great panther, who snarled +and made ready to spring at her. As she screamed and started to run +away, her foot slipped on a steep and muddy place, and she slid down +the little hill right into the panther's face. He was so frightened +that he jumped the fence and hurried to the woods. +</p> +<p> +This great yellow cat is both savage and cowardly, and he has been +known to follow a man walking through the woods, all day, yet he +sneaked out of sight at every loud call the man gave. He chases deer +and gets many small and helpless fawns, hunters say. +</p> +<p> +Fur-hunting was once a profitable business for the Indians, who were +clothed in bear and panther skins when the first white men came to +California, and had many furs to trade or sell. The Indians trapped +otters, beavers, and minks, and the squaws tanned the deer-hides to +make buckskin shirts or leggings. Hunters and trappers still bring in +these wild animals' furry coats after trips to the high mountains or +untravelled woods, where the shy creatures try to live and be safe +from their enemies. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: California Red Deer" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1140.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1140.jpg" width="149" height="150" border="0" + alt="CALIFORNIA RED DEER."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">CALIFORNIA RED DEER. + <br>From a photograph by <br>George V. Robinson. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +In early days herds of a very large deer, called elk, fed on the wild +oats and grass. These elk had wide, branching horns measuring three +or four feet from tip to tip. Only a few of them now survive in the +redwood forests in the northern counties. There were plenty of them +once where San Francisco now stands. Dana in his book called "Two +Years Before the Mast," tells us that when his ship dropped anchor off +the little village of Yerba Buena about sixty-seven years ago, he saw +hundreds of red deer and elk with their branching antlers. They were +running about on the hills, or standing still to look at the ship +until the noise frightened them off. At that time the whole country +was covered with thick trees and bushes where the wolf and coyote +prowled, and the grizzly bear's track was seen everywhere. +</p> +<p> +There are plenty of deer in the redwoods now, and in the high +Sierras are black-tailed and large mule-deer. In the woods round Mount +Tamalpais timid red deer live, too. In winter, when it is cold and +snowy in the northern counties of our state, these deer often come +into the farmer's barnyard to nibble at the hay. +</p> +<p> +There are still left in the mountains among the pines and snowy cliffs +many mountain-sheep. These curious big-horned animals resemble both +the elk and the sheep, and it is said they can jump from a high rock +and land far below on their feet or heavy, twisted horns without being +hurt in the least. +</p> +<p> +Of all the great herds of graceful, fast-running antelope, once the +most plentiful of our wild animals, only a very few can now be found +on the eastern slopes of the Sierras. +</p> +<p> +But Master Coyote, who might well be spared, so cruel and cowardly is +he, still sneaks up and down the whole state, and his quick sharp bark +gives notice that the rascal is ready to steal a chicken or a lamb if +it is not protected. With his bushy tail and large head he is half fox +and half wolf in appearance, and mean enough in habits to be both. He +can outrun a dog and even a deer, and though he catches jack-rabbits +and the Molly Cottontail usually for food, he would help his brother, +the wolf, to kill a poor harmless sheep. +</p> +<p> +This gray wolf is a savage creature and hides in the thick forests by +day, slinking out at night to the nearest sheep corral or turkey-pen +if he can find one unwatched by some faithful dog. His friend and +neighbor, the fox, likes fat geese and chickens as well as birds, +squirrels, and wood-rats. The queer raccoon lives in the redwoods and +is often caught and kept in a cage or chained for a pet. +</p> +<p> +Wildcats, both gray and yellow, are found in the thickly timbered +parts of California, and the badger makes his home in the mountain +cañons or pine woods. There, too, the curious porcupine dwells. He is +covered with grayish white quills, which bristle out when he is angry +or frightened. No old dog will touch this animal, for he knows better +than to get a mouthful of sharp toothpicks by biting Mr. Porcupine, +who is like a round pincushion with the pins pointing out. A dog who +has never seen this prickly ball will dab at it, and have a sore paw +to nurse for weeks after. +</p> +<p> +Two or three kinds of tree-squirrels live in the pines and redwoods, +the Douglas squirrel being well known in the mountains. The ground +squirrel, or chipmunk, digs holes in the ground, where he hides his +winter's store of grain and nuts. +</p> +<p> +Three of our smaller wild animals are very common and very troublesome +to the farmer. The skunk, which looks like a pretty black and white +kitten with a bushy tail, and also the weasel, destroy all the +chickens and eggs they can reach, and they are so cunning that it is +hard to keep them out of the hen-house. That little pest, the gopher, +we are all well acquainted with, since he gnaws the pinks and roses +off at their roots in your city garden while his large family of +brothers and sisters kill the farmer's fruit-trees and vines. The +gopher digs long tunnels under ground, making storerooms here and +there in these passages, which he fills with grass, roots, and seeds. +In each cheek he has a pouch, or pocket, large enough to hold nearly a +handful of grain, so the little rascal carries his stores very easily. +The traps and poison by which the farmer is always trying to make way +with him, he is sly enough to let alone. His greatest foe is the +cat, which watches patiently at the hole where the destructive little +fellow is digging and usually catches him. A mother cat will sometimes +bring in two or three gophers a day to her kittens. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_19"><!-- RULE4 19 --></a> +<h2> + IN SALT WATER AND FRESH +</h2> + +<p> +Tom and Retta Ransom were two of the happiest children in the state, +I believe, when told that their summer vacation was to be spent at +Catalina Island. To see the wonderful fish that swim in those warm, +Southern waters, to watch them through the glass-bottomed boat, to +dip out funny sea-flowers with a net, or catch the pretty kingfish and +perhaps a "yellowtail,"—why, they could talk of nothing else! +</p> +<p> +How they skipped and danced and chattered about the trip! At +last Mamma said, "Well, everything is packed and ready, and we go +to-morrow." Then what fun it was to stand on the steamer's deck and +sail "right out through the Golden Gate," as Retta said. The big +green billows of the Pacific Ocean caught the boat as she crossed the +outside bar and tossed salt spray almost into their faces. Little the +children cared for the drops of water, for they were so glad to be +off on their trip and to say good-by to San Francisco's summer fog and +cold winds for a time. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Seal Rocks, San Francisco" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1177a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1177a.jpg" width="151" height="150" border="0" + alt="SEAL ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">SEAL ROCKS, <br>SAN FRANCISCO. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +And there on Seal Rocks, near the Cliff House, were the seals, or +rather sea-lions, clumsy creatures like black rubber sacks with +fins, or flippers, and a head. Some were lying in the sun and others +crawling up the steep, wet rocks. Those highest up were asleep and +quiet, but most of them kept barking or growling as they tried to find +a sunny place to bask in. Sometimes when frightened these sea-lions +will pitch headlong from high rocks into the ocean and dive out of +sight at once. Mrs. Ransom said she remembered seeing one that was +kept for years in a salt-water tank, and that, although they seem so +clumsy, this sea-lion jumped so quick that he caught a fish thrown to +him before it touched the water. Once fur-seals were in great numbers +off our coast, and lived on the rocks as these sea-lions now do. But +Indians, or later on white hunters, killed them, or drove them up +north where the crack of the rifle is not heard. +</p> +<p> +On to the south the steamer sailed through the foaming waters, and as +Tom stood watching the white-capped waves go dancing by, he saw, two +or three times, a black fin come up, and then another. At last a man +said, "Look at the porpoises playing." Tom screamed with delight as +they jumped and chased each other till their black, shiny backs were +clear out of water. These fish are sometimes called sea-hogs and are +five or six feet long. Either to get their food of small fish, or in +play, they keep swimming and diving near the tops of the breakers. +Fishermen catch them with a strong hook and use the thick, leathery +skin for straps or strings, while they try oil out of their blubber or +fat. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Humpback Whale (57 feet long)" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1159a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1159a.jpg" width="160" height="110" border="0" + alt="HUMPBACK WHALE (57 feet long)."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">HUMPBACK WHALE<br>(57 feet long). + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +All that day and night the boat kept steadily on her way, and the next +morning they were in Santa Barbara Channel. It was so pleasant sailing +on this summer sea in the soft, warm sunshine that even the sea-sick +ladies felt better and came on deck. Mamma agreed with the children +that the steamer trip was much nicer than the hot, dusty cars. Just +then some one called, "See the whale," and looking quick Tom and Retta +saw what seemed a fountain of water rising high in the air about half +a mile away. Soon another went up, and two or three more, for the +gray hump-backed whales like this stretch of smooth bay. They are +warm-blooded animals and not fish at all, so they must come to the top +of the waves for air to breathe. The air and water spout out through +"blow-holes" on top of the whale's head, and rise like steam in the +colder air. The children's mother told them that the whale is the +largest of all animals, and that it lives on little jellyfish. It swims +with its great mouth wide open and catches all the tiny sea creatures +in its path. A fringe of whalebone hangs down from the roof of the +whale's mouth, and he strains the water out through this and swallows +the fish. As the boat went on, the children said, "There she blows," +as the sailors do when they see whales spouting in the distance. +</p> +<p> +Late that night the steamer got to San Pedro, and you may be sure Tom +and Retta were up early the next morning. As they came off the +boat, there was a crowd of people on the wharf who were pulling in +"yellow-tail" as fast as they dropped their lines. This fine fish is +a little like a big salmon, but with golden-yellow fins and tail. Its +body is greenish gray, with spots of the prettiest rainbow colors, +which grow brighter as the fish dies. These fish bite easily, but as +soon as caught begin to rush back and forth, fighting and trying to +snap the line. +</p> +<p> +The children here took a smaller steamer for the twenty-mile trip +across to Catalina Island, and on the way over they saw a whole +"school" of whales and a flight of flying-fishes. Yes, really and +truly, these little fish fly or sail through the air, for their fins +balance them like a parachute. They skim along ten or twelve feet +above the waves, and then drop in the water to rest, taking another +flight whenever their enemies, the porpoises, chase them. +</p> +<p> +How happy the children were to land at the little town of Avalon, and +to know that they were to have a month at this beautiful place! They +hurried down to the beach and their first choice of amusements was the +glass-bottomed boat. These boats have "water-telescopes," which are +only clear glass set in boxed-in places. The glass seems to make the +ripples still, so that you can look down, down to the bottom of the +ocean, twenty or thirty feet below you. +</p> +<p> +The boatman rowed the children out in the bay, where the water, now +green, now blue, was always clear as crystal. On the rocks and sand +at the bottom starfish and crabs crawled slowly along or clung to some +stone. The purple sea-urchins, queer round-shelled creatures covered +with thorny spines, crowded together, and the ugly toad-fish hid +in the green and brown seaweeds. Blue, purple, and rainbow-colored +jellyfish floated on top of the waters, while gold perch with red +and green sunfish swam through the seaweed "like parrots in some hot +country's woods," Retta thought. In the shallow places on the rocks +those curious sea-flowers, the anemones, looked like pink or green +cactus blossoms. The children never tired of the water-telescope in +all their stay at the island. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustrations: Black Sea Bass, Leaping Tuna" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1149b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1149b.jpg" width="145" height="162" border="0" + alt="BLACK SEA BASS."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">BLACK SEA BASS. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><br> <a href="images/lg1149a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1149a.jpg" width="150" height="155" border="0" + alt="LEAPING TUNA."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">LEAPING TUNA. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +At night the warm ocean waters seemed on fire, since they are full +of very tiny, soft-bodied creatures, each of which gives out a faint, +glowing light. Every day the fishermen brought in new and strange +fishes. The black sea-bass, heavier than the fisherman himself and +longer than he was tall, were wonderful, and they could hardly believe +that such big fish were caught with a rod and line. +</p> +<p> +But the leaping tuna pleased Tom the most, since he thought it such +fun to watch them jump into the air like silver arrows after the +flying-fish. Not so large as the black bass, the tunas are strong +enough to tow a boat along when running with a hook. One will drag a +heavy launch through the water as if a tug had hold of it, and +will fight for hours, rushing and plunging till tired out. Then the +fisherman pulls him up to the boat and ends his struggles. +</p> +<p> +Tom and Retta were fond of watching the curious fish and sea-plants +in the glass aquarium tanks on shore also, but their happiest time was +when they gathered shells on the beach. They never found out the names +of more than those of the limpet, turban, and scallop, though they +picked up baskets full of tiny pink and white beauties, all frail and +of many kinds. These shells were once the homes of sea mollusks, +as such soft, fleshy creatures are called. But to Tom and Retta the +shells were only pretty playthings, to be doll's dishes, or cups, or +pincushions, perhaps. +</p> +<p> +One morning some fishermen saw a shark, and no one dared to go in +bathing for a few days. This great, savage, "man-eater" shark does not +often come north of the Gulf of California. Sometimes small ones are +caught with a hook and line off Catalina Island, and Tom was always +glad to see such sea-tigers destroyed. +</p> +<p> +Of course the children did not want to go home, till at last Mrs. +Ransom explained to them that in the ocean and bay near San Francisco +there were odd fish and strange animals too. And so it turned out, for +in a day's fishing over at Sausalito Tom caught many silver smelt and +tomcod, with flat, ugly flounders, and a red, big-eyed rock-cod. The +frightened boy almost fell out of the boat, too, when he pulled in a +large sting-ray, or "stingaree," as the boatman called it. This queer +three-sided fish, with a sharp, bony sting in its back, flopped round +till the man cut the hook out, knocked its head till it was no longer +able to bite, and threw it overboard. These rays have to be fenced out +of the oyster-beds along the bay, since they have big mouths full +of such strong teeth that they crush an oyster, shell and all, and +destroy every one they can reach. +</p> +<p> +Oysters are grown in great quantities in the oyster-beds along the bay +shore. The largest size, which are called "transplanted," are brought +from the East as very small or baby oysters and dropped into shallow +water, where they cling to rocks or brush-piles till grown. +</p> +<p> +Tom also caught a perch, and clinging to it as he drew in his line +was a large, hard-shelled, long-clawed crab. Tom put the crab in the +basket, knowing well what delicious white meat was in the fellow's +legs and back. +</p> +<p> +Clams that burrow deep in the mud and may be found at low tide, +by digging where their tell-tale bubble of air arises, and the odd +shrimps, so good to eat, the children already knew about. Chinese +fishermen catch shrimps in nets, dry them on the hillsides, and send +both dry meat and shells to China. They dry the meat of the abalone +also, and use the beautiful shells, which you have no doubt seen, for +carving into curios, or making into jewellery. +</p> +<p> +A salt-water creature very destructive to shipping and the wharves is +the teredo, or ship-worm. This brown inch-long worm lives in wood +that is always under water, such as the bottoms of ships and the round +piles you see at the wharves. He hollows or bores out winding tunnels +in the wood with the sharp edge of his shell until the piles crumble +to pieces. This small animal would finally destroy the largest wooden +ship if sheets of copper were not put on the sides and keel to protect +it. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Trout from Lake Tahoe" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1159b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1159b.jpg" width="160" height="104" border="0" + alt="TROUT FROM LAKE TAHOE."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">TROUT FROM LAKE TAHOE. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +When Retta saw Tom's basket of fish she said, "Well, I think the +fresh-water fishes much prettier. I am sure the rainbow and Dolly +Varden trout with their bright-colored spots, which we saw up in the +Truckee River and the mountain lakes last summer, were better to look +at and to eat than these sea monsters." Tom laughed and said, "Oh, +that was because you helped to catch some of those. Do you remember +the big black-spotted trout we saw in Lake Tahoe? And the little +speckled fellows we caught in that clear creek in the redwoods, and +how we wrapped them in wet paper and cooked them at our camp-fire? +I wish we could go up to the McCloud River, though, and see the baby +trout in the fish hatchery there." +</p> +<p> +So their mother told them that the tiny trout eggs were kept in +troughs with clear, cold water running over them till they hatched +out. Then the little things, not half as long as a pin, were placed in +large tin cans and sent to stock brooks and lakes, and in a year or so +they grew big enough to catch. +</p> +<p> +The most valuable of our food-fishes is the salmon, a large +silvery-sided salt-water fish that takes fresh-water journeys too. +For they swim up the rivers every year to lay their eggs in the clear, +cold streams, knowing, perhaps, that the salmon-fry, as the young are +called, will have fewer enemies away from the ocean. The salmon go +over a hundred miles up to the McCloud River to spawn, and will jump +or leap up small falls or rapids in their way. Indians spear many of +them, but a number go back to the ocean again. Thousands and thousands +of ocean salmon are caught along the northern coast and taken to +the canneries. There the fish are put into cans and cooked, and when +sealed up are sent all over the world. California salmon is eaten from +Iceland to India, and its preparation and sale give employment to many +people. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_20"><!-- RULE4 20 --></a> +<h2> + ABOUT CALIFORNIA'S INDIANS +</h2> + +<p> +When the Spanish and English first landed on this part of the New +World's coast, they found the Indians who dwelt inland almost naked, +and living like wild animals on roots and seeds and acorns. The tribes +along the seashore, however, were good hunters and fishermen, and +those Indians along the Santa Barbara Channel and the islands near +by were a tall, fine-looking people, and the most intelligent of the +race. They had large houses and canoes, and clothed themselves in +sealskins. +</p> +<p> +The Indians Drake saw near Point Reyes had fur coats, or cloaks, but +no other clothes. They brought him presents of shell money or wampum, +and of feather head-dresses and baskets. With their bows and arrows +they killed fish or deer or squirrels, and being very strong ran +swiftly after game. They seemed gentle and peaceable with the white +men and each other, and were sorry to have Drake sail away. +</p> +<p> +In later years the Indians who lived here when the Mission Padres came +were stupid and brutish, because they knew nothing better. They were +lazy, dirty, and at first would not work. But the patient Padres +taught them to raise grain and fruit, to build their fine churches, +to weave cloth and blankets, and to tan leather for shoes, saddles, +or harness. But although the Indians learned to be good workmen, +they liked idleness, dancing, and feasting much better, and when the +Missions were given up the Indians soon went back to their former +habits. +</p> +<p> +There were no distinct tribes among these Indians, and they had no +laws. Nor was there a king or chief over many natives. They lived +in small villages or rancherias, each having a name and ruled by a +captain. Each rancheria had its special place to hunt or fish, and had +to fight its own battles with the other families of Indians. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Indian Woman with Pappoose" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1162a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1162a.jpg" width="150" height="179" border="0" + alt="INDIAN WOMAN WITH PAPPOOSE."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">INDIAN WOMAN <br>WITH PAPPOOSE. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +The men did nothing but hunt and fish, or make bows, stone +arrow-heads, nets and traps for game. The women not only had to gather +grass seeds, acorns, and nuts or berries, but they had to do all the +field-work and carry the heavy burdens, usually with a baby strapped +in its basket above the load. In preparing food for cooking, these +mahalas, or squaws, put seed or acorns in a stone mortar and pounded +them to coarse meal or paste. Sometimes a grass-woven basket was +filled with water, and hot stones were thrown in till the water began +to boil. Then acorn or seed meal was put in and cooked into mush. This +meal, or that from wild oats, was also mixed into a dough and baked on +hot stones into bread. Game or fish was eaten raw, or broiled a little +on the coals of the camp-fire. +</p> +<p> +The Indians got many deer, and one way of hunting them was to put the +head and hide of a deer over the hunter's head. The make-believe then +crept along in the high grass till near enough to the quietly feeding +animals to put an arrow through one or more. All the streams were +full of fish then, and salmon swarmed in rivers that ran to the ocean. +These salmon the Indians speared or shot with arrows. They also built +runways or fish-weirs and made them so that the fish would become +crowded into a narrow passage, and could easily be dipped out with +nets or baskets. +</p> +<p> +When the Americans came here they called these Indians "Diggers," +because they lived on what they could dig or root out of the ground. +They were very fond of grasshoppers, and ate them either dried or +raw, or made into a soup with acorn or nut-meal. Fat grubworms and +the flesh of any animal found dead was a great treat. If a whale or +sea-lion was washed ashore on the beach, the Indians gathered round it +for a feast, and soon left only the bones. +</p> +<p> +But they had no idea of saving food, so they fattened when there was +plenty, and starved when dry years made the acorns or nuts scarce. +Having no salt, they did not try to dry or smoke the meat of deer or +other wild animals. Nor did they at first lay up nuts and seeds, as +even the squirrels or woodpeckers do, for winter use. But wandering +from place to place, they camped in the summer along the rivers, where +fish was plenty and the wild oats gave them grain. In the fall they +hunted pine-nuts and berries in the mountains, till snow drove them +down into the valleys. +</p> +<p> +Each Indian town, or rancheria, had a name, and many of these names +are still in use. At the north lived the Klamaths, Siskiyous, Shastas, +and the savage Modocs, whose months of fighting in the lava beds +caused the death of General Canby and many soldiers. The Porno tribes +of Lake county, Yrekas, Hoopas, and Ukiahs, are well known at the +present day. Tehama, Colusa, Tuolumne, Yosemite, and other places +recall the Indians who gave each its name. The San Diego Indians are +still known as Diegueños and live on a reserve, or lands set aside for +them. +</p> +<p> +Almost all the natives had Indian money, called wampum, which they +made from abalone or clam-shells by cutting out round pieces like +buttons or small, hollow beads. Little shells were also used, and the +wampum was strung on grass or on deer sinews. The Pomos still make +thousands of pieces of this money, and so many strings of it will buy +whatever the buck, or Indian man, and his mahala, or squaw, wish to +get. +</p> +<p> +General Bidwell, who came to California in 1841 and surveyed the land +for many ranches, says of the Indians at that time:— +</p> +<p> +"They were almost as wild as deer, and wore no clothes at all except +the women, who had tule aprons fastened to a belt round their waists. +In the rough work of surveying among brush and briars I gave the men +shoes, pantaloons, and shirts, which they would take off when work +was done, carry home in their hands, and put on in time to go to work +again. But they soon learned to sleep in their new things to save +trouble, and would wear them day and night till a suit dropped to +pieces. They were quick to do as the whites did, and when paid in +calico and cloth Saturday night, by Monday they had on their new +skirts or shirts all made up like ours. Yet every Indian would choose +beads for his wages, and go almost naked and hungry till the next +pay-day." +</p> +<p> +General Bidwell treated the Indians honestly and kindly, and in return +they were his friends and helped him much to his advantage. In 1847 he +settled on the great Rancho Chico, and part of his land he gave to the +Mechoopdas, as the Indian rancheria there was called. They worked to +plant orchards and at all his farm-work, and he treated them so fairly +that old men are still living on this ranch who as boys helped the +general in his tree-planting and road-building. A whole village of +these Mechoopdas live on the Bidwell place owning their houses, while +Mrs. Bidwell is their best friend and helps them in sickness and +trouble. The men work in the hop fields and fruit orchards, and the +women make baskets. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustrations: Indian Woman with Baskets; Indian Baskets" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1162b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1162b.jpg" width="150" height="148" border="0" + alt="INDIAN WOMAN WITH BASKETS."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">INDIAN WOMAN <br>WITH BASKETS. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1174.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1174.jpg" width="150" height="147" border="0" + alt="INDIAN BASKETS."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">INDIAN BASKETS. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +All the California Indians are basket-makers, and their work is so +well done and so beautiful that it is much prized. The Pomos of Lake +and Mendocino counties make especially fine baskets for every purpose. +Indeed, the Indian papoose, or baby, is cradled in a basket on his +mother's back; he drinks and eats from cup or bowl-shaped baskets, and +the whole family sleep under a great wicker tent basket thatched +with grass or tules. All Pomo baskets are woven on a frame of willow +shoots, and in and out through this the mahala draws tough grasses or +fine tree roots dyed in different colors, and after the pattern she +chooses. Sometimes she works into the baskets the quail's crest, small +red or yellow feathers from the woodpecker, green from the head of the +mallard duck, or beads. She also hangs wampum or bits of abalone shell +on the finest ones. The storage baskets are four or five feet high to +hold grain or acorns, and the baskets to fit the back and carry a +load are like half a cone in shape, with straps to hold the burden +in place. Their smaller berry baskets hold just a quart. Some are +water-tight and are used to cook mush in. Fish-traps and long narrow +basket-traps for quail are also made out of this willow-work. +</p> +<p> +On the Bidwell ranch is an old Indian "temescal," or sweat-house. It +is an underground hut, or cave dug out of a hillside, with a hole in +the top for smoke to reach the air. The Indians used to build a big +fire in this cave and then lie round it till dripping with sweat. A +cold plunge into the creek near by finished the bath,—Turkish, we +call it. Nowadays the Indians use this place for a meeting-room and +for dances. +</p> +<p> +The older Indians still dance and rig out in all their finery of +feathers and beads, though the young people are ashamed of their +tribal customs and wish to be like the white folks. Some of their +dances are named for a bird or animal, and the Indians must imitate by +their dress and cries the animal chosen. In the bear dance the dancer +crawls about the fire on all fours with a bear's skin about him. He +wears a chain of oak-balls round his neck, and as he shakes his head +these rattle like a bear's teeth snapping shut, while all the time he +growls savagely. The feather-dancer, with a skirt and cap of eagles' +feathers, will whirl on his toes like a top for hours, while the other +Indians sing and the master of the dance shakes a large rattle. +</p> +<p> +The California Indians are slowly passing away, and though all over +the state there are still rancherias, the land that was once their +very own will soon know them no more. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_21"><!-- RULE4 21 --></a> +<h2> + THE STORY OF SAN FRANCISCO +</h2> + +<p> +The Mission and Presidio of San Francisco were founded in 1776 by +Father Palou, and two little settlements grew up around the fort and +at the church. The Presidio was built where it is now, and ships used +to anchor in the bay in front of it, though the whalers usually went +to Sausalito to get wood from the hills and to fill their water-casks +at a large spring. From early Mission times the Spanish name of Yerba +Buena was given to that part of San Francisco's peninsula between +Black Point and Rincon Point. Ship-captains and sailors soon found out +that the cove or bay east of Yerba Buena was the best and least windy +place to anchor their vessels, and later on hundreds of ships found +a safe harbor there. The name Yerba Buena, or good herb, was given +on account of a little creeping vine with sweet-smelling leaves which +covered the ground and is still found on the sand-dunes and Presidio +hills. +</p> +<p> +For many years the small settlements made no progress, and the rest +of the peninsula was covered with thick woods, where the grizzly bear, +wolf, and coyote roamed, while deer were plenty at the Presidio. Then +in 1835 Governor Figueroa, the Mexican ruler of California, directed +that a new town should be started at Yerba Buena cove. The first +street, called the "foundation-street," was laid out from Pine and +Kearny streets, as they are called to-day, to North Beach. The first +house was built by Captain Richardson on what is now Dupont Street, +between Clay and Washington. The next year a trader named Jacob Leese +built a store. It was finished on the Fourth of July, and in honor of +the day he gave a feast and a fandango, or dance, at which the company +danced that night and all the next day. This was the first Fourth +celebrated in the place. +</p> +<p> +Two or three years later a new survey laid out streets between +Broadway and California, Montgomery and Powell. A fresh-water lagoon, +or lake, was near the present corner of Montgomery and Sacramento, +and an Indian temescal, or sweat-house, beside it. The bay came up +to Montgomery Street then, with five feet of water at Sansome, and +mudflats to the east. During the gold excitement of '49, when hundreds +of ships dropped anchor in the bay, many sailors deserted to go to the +mines, and some of the old vessels were hauled in on these mud-flats +and made into storehouses. All that part of the city east of +Montgomery Street is filled or made ground, and when new buildings are +to be started wooden piles or cement piers must go down to get a firm +foundation. +</p> +<p> +Until 1846 only about thirty families lived at Yerba Buena. Then a +shipload of Mormon emigrants arrived and pitched their tents in the +sand-hills. Samuel Brannan, their leader, printed the first newspaper, +<i>The California Star</i>, in '47. That year also the first alcalde, +or mayor, of the new town, Lieutenant Bartlett, appointed an engineer +named O'Farrell to lay out more streets. He surveyed Market Street and +mapped down blocks as far west on the sand-dunes as Taylor Street and +to Rincon Point or South Beach. He gave the names of such well-known +men as Kearny, Stockton, Larkin, Guerrero, and Geary to these streets. +Mission Street was the road to the Mission Dolores, and about this +time Bartlett ordered that the Presidio, the Mission, and Yerba Buena +should be one town and should be called San Francisco. +</p> +<p> +Then came the gold fever, and nearly every one left town to go to the +mines. Many people sold all they had to get money to buy mining tools +and food enough to live on till they struck gold. Men started for the +mines, leaving their houses and stores alone with no one to care for +goods or furniture. +</p> +<p> +But news of the finding of gold had reached other places, and soon +ships from the Atlantic coast, Mexico, and all over the world +began sailing into San Francisco Bay. In '49 the first steamer, the +<i>California</i>, arrived from New York, and soon five thousand +people were in San Francisco, where most of the supplies for the +gold-fields had to be bought. Many of the newcomers lived in canvas +tents or brush-covered shanties scattered about in the high sand-hills +or in the thick chaparral. Some houses were built of adobe bricks, +and the two-story frame Parker House was thought to be so fine that it +rented for fifteen thousand dollars a month. Some wooden houses were +brought out from the East in numbered pieces, like children's blocks, +to be put together here, and others thought to be fireproof were of +iron plates made in the East. +</p> +<p> +The first public school was opened in '48 and in the same building +church services were held Sundays. The first post-office was in a +store at the corner of Washington and Montgomery streets in '49. By +1850 the city had five square miles of land that had been cut down +from sand-hills or filled in on the mud-flats. The houses along the +city-front were built on piles, and the tide ebbed and flowed under +them. Long wharves for the unloading of ships ran out into deep water. +At Jackson and Battery streets a ship was used for a storehouse, and +after the earth was filled in this stranded vessel was left +standing among the houses. On Clay and Sansome streets the old hulk +<i>Niantic</i> had a hotel upon her decks, and the first city prison +was in the hold of the brig <i>Euphemia</i>. +</p> +<p> +While most of the miners were steady, hard-working men, honest, and +very kind and generous to each other, some drank and gambled their +hard-earned gold-dust away with a get +of men who were ready to do any wrong thing for money. The gamblers +and bad characters grew so troublesome by '51 that the police could +do little or nothing with them. Every day some one was robbed, +or murdered, and thieves often set fire to houses that they might +plunder. As the judges and police could not control these criminals, +nearly two hundred good citizens formed a "vigilance committee." It +was agreed that bad characters should be told to leave town, and that +robbers and murderers should be punished by the committee. Not +long after, the vigilance committee hanged four men, and roughs and +law-breakers left town for the mines. Men soon learned to keep the +laws and do right. +</p> +<p> +Since almost all the houses in San Francisco were light frames of wood +covered with cloth or paper, and since there was no fire department, +there were six great fires, each of which nearly burnt up the town. +The only way to stop the flames was to pull down houses or to blow +them up with gunpowder. But almost before the ashes of one fire had +cooled, wooden, cloth and paper buildings would cover whole blocks, to +be burned again before long. The fifth great fire, in '51, destroyed a +thousand houses and ten million dollars' worth of property in a night. +One warehouse containing many barrels of vinegar was saved by covering +the roof with blankets dipped in the vinegar, as no water could be +had. The iron houses that had been thought fire-proof were of no use. +Men who stayed in them found too late that the iron doors swelled with +the heat and could not be opened, so that those within were smothered +to death. +</p> +<p> +Then people began to guard against such fires by building new houses +of stone or of brick. The sixth great fire destroyed most of the +wooden buildings in the business part of the city. After that, +with two or three fire companies and engines and better houses, +people no longer dreaded the fire-bell. Water was piped into the city +from Mountain Lake, and there was plenty for all purposes. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Entrance to Japanese Tea Garden, San Francisco" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1179.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1179.jpg" width="156" height="150" border="0" + alt="ENTRANCE TO JAPANESE TEA GARDEN, SAN FRANCISCO."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">ENTRANCE TO JAPANESE + <br>TEA GARDEN, <br>SAN FRANCISCO. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +So the city grew larger, until in '53 there were fifty thousand people +of all races and countries who called San Francisco home. Chinese and +Japanese, the Mexican, African, Pacific Islander, Greek, or Turk, or +Malay elbowed crowds of Americans, English, French, and Germans. It +was said that any foreigner could find in the city those who spoke his +language, and that gold was a word all knew. +</p> +<p> +The largest yield of gold from the mines was in '53, and the next +year was a poor year for the miners. They bought fewer goods in San +Francisco, and the storekeepers found business falling off. Too many +houses had been built, so rents went down and times were hard for +a year or two. In '55 there were many bank failures, and business +troubles of all kinds made the people restless, and roughs and +murderers carried a strong hand. Then the "law and order party," as +the vigilance committee was at that time called, began once more +the task of punishing those who robbed or killed. A list of criminal +offenders was made out, and such were sent away from the state. +One excellent result of the vigilance committee's labors was that a +"people's party," as it was called, chose the best men to govern the +city, and for years after peace and order were in San Francisco. +</p> +<p> +In '54 the city was lighted with gas for the first time, at a cost of +fifteen dollars a thousand feet. In that year also the mint began to +coin money from gold-dust, making five, ten and twenty-dollar pieces. +Lone Mountain Cemetery was laid out about this time, and the old Yerba +Buena graveyard, where the City Hall now stands, was closed. +</p> +<p> +San Francisco had, for some years, trouble about titles to property, +owing to false or defective land-grants given by the Mexicans. Men +tried to take possession of lots they had no real claim to by building a +shanty on the ground and squatting there, and the "squatter troubles" +between such land thieves and the rightful owners caused lawsuits and +shooting affairs. A land commission finally settled these disputes, +throwing out all the false claims and giving titles to the proper persons. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: The New Cliff House, San Francisco" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1177b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1177b.jpg" width="158" height="148" border="0" + alt="THE NEW CLIFF HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">THE NEW CLIFF HOUSE, <br>SAN FRANCISCO. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +The little village of Yerba Buena has now grown to be the largest +city on the Pacific coast and one that is known the world over. It is +widely and justly celebrated as the centre of great manufacturing +and shipping interests, for its fine buildings, its climate, and its +beautiful surroundings. San Francisco Bay, the harbor the Franciscans +named for their patron saint, is noted for its picturesque scenery. +Golden Gate Park, with its thousand acres of trees and lawn and +flowers stretching out to the Pacific Ocean, the famous Cliff House, +and the Golden Gate, through which so many Argonauts sailed into +California, are the most attractive and best known places. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_22"><!-- RULE4 22 --></a> +<h2> + MEN CALIFORNIA REMEMBERS +</h2> + +<p> +Many pages of this book might be filled with California's roll of +honor,—with that long list of men whose names are remembered whenever +the state's history is recalled. +</p> +<p> +Explorers, Mission-builders, Argonauts, and pioneers were the men who +helped to make California the fair state you know and live in. From +the first day of the Spanish discoveries on this shore of the Pacific +Ocean, we find brave and great men who gave their best efforts, and +sometimes their lives, for California. +</p> +<p> +Let us head our brief list with Cortes, the name-giver, who dreamed +long years of the golden land he was never to see. Then Cabrillo, the +sea-king whom San Diego people honor every year because he found their +bay and first set foot on California's ground. Next comes the bold +Englishman, Sir Admiral Francis Drake, who intended that his queen, +Elizabeth, should have this Indian kingdom, as he believed it to +be. The stone Prayer-book Cross, in Golden Gate Park, was put up to +commemorate the service of prayer and psalms, offered at Drake's Bay +by Fletcher, the minister on the Admiral's ship. +</p> +<p> +Good Father Serra, the founder of the Missions, his friend +and brother-priest Father Palou of San Francisco, and their +fellow-laborers Crespi and Lasuen, helped in the work of building +churches and teaching the Indians. Governor Portola, the first Spanish +ruler of Alta California, assisted the Padres, and also found San +Francisco Bay. Lieutenant Ayala, however, sailed the first ship, the +<i>San Carlos</i>, through the Golden Gate. Another governor, de Neve, +founded San José and Los Angeles, and wrote a set of laws for the two +Californias of his time. That wise ruler, Governor Borica, ordered +schools opened and tried to get the Indians to farm their lands and to +raise hemp and flax. +</p> +<p> +Many of the old Spanish settlers and explorers have left us their +names, though they are themselves forgotten, as Martinez, Amador, +Castro, Bodega, and countless others plainly show. The Englishmen +Livermore, Gilroy and Mark West, those early settlers, Temple and Rice +at Los Angeles, Yount and Pope of Napa Valley, Don Timoteo Murphy of +San Rafael, and Lassen the Dane, for whom Lassen's Peak was named, +were among those who came here before 1830. +</p> +<p> +Governor Figueroa, called the "benefactor of Alta California" ordered +the Missions to be given up to the Indians. By directing that the +town of Yerba Buena should be laid out, he also is remembered as the +founder of San Francisco. Richardson, who carried out the governor's +orders, was the first settler and Leese built the first frame-house of +San Francisco. +</p> +<p> +In Governor Alvarado's time many Americans came to the new country, +although Alvarado and General Vallejo tried hard to keep them out. +Vallejo was then the military commander, and had headquarters at +Sonoma, where he had an adobe fort and a few soldiers to protect the +Mission of Solano. Here General Vallejo was living with his Indian and +Californian settlers when the place was taken by Ide, the leader +of the "bear-flag party." Vallejo, set free when the short-lived +"bear-flag republic" went to pieces, lived many years at Sonoma. He +was afterwards a member of the first legislature. He tried hard in +1851 to have the state capital at Vallejo; but he failed, for he did +not keep his agreement to put up buildings for government use. +</p> +<p> +A man well known in the early days was John Sutter, a Swiss, who built +a fort and settled where Sacramento now stands. He called his colony +New Helvetia, and soon had about three hundred Indians at work for +him. Some of the men were carpenters, blacksmiths, and farmers, while +the women wove blankets or a coarse cloth. His fort enclosed about an +acre of ground, with an adobe wall twenty feet high. A large gate was +shut every night to keep safe those inside this walled fort. You have +read that Marshall, who found gold, was building a sawmill for Sutter +when he picked up the precious yellow nuggets. Sutter and Marshall +quarrelled at last about the ownership of the mill at Coloma, where +the pieces of gold were picked up. Marshall died a poor man, unhappy +and neglected by the state, which has since put a costly bronze statue +over his grave. +</p> +<p> +Sutter was very active in the Micheltorena war, when Governor +Micheltorena was defeated and put out of office by Alvarado and +Castro. +</p> +<p> +The last of the Mexican governors, Pio Pico, tried his best to +prevent the rush of Americans into his country, but though Castro, +the military commander, helped him, the Americans came and stayed. And +both Pico and Castro with their soldiers were driven out of California +at last by Fremont and Stockton. +</p> +<p> +General Fremont, the "path-finder," who could easily find the best way +through a wilderness and could make maps or roads for others to +follow him, is a striking figure in California history. He made three +exploring trips to this coast, Kit Carson, the famous hunter and +trapper, being his guide and scout. From the Oregon line to San Diego, +Fremont knew the country. He was a brave Indian fighter and helped to +capture California from Mexico. Fremont was appointed governor of the +new territory by Stockton, and was the first senator from California +representing the state in Congress. In 1848 Fremont sent a map of the +country to Congress, and on it named the strait at the entrance to +San Francisco Bay the Golden Gate. He was, therefore, the first to use +this beautiful name now known the world over. His wife, Jessie Benton +Fremont, is still living in Los Angeles. +</p> +<p> +Commodore Sloat, who raised the American flag at Monterey, and +Commodore Stockton were United States naval officers who helped to +conquer the Mexican and Indian forces with the aid of Fremont and +General Kearny. These four men won the land of gold for the Union. +</p> +<p> +General John Bidwell, another "path-finder," who in 1841 led the first +party of white men over the Sierras, lived to be over eighty years of +age. He saw the state, once a wilderness where naked Digger Indians +chased elk and antelope, grow to a pleasant land of orchards and +vineyards, of great cities full of people. General Bidwell was for a +time in Sutter's employ, and surveyed nearly all the large ranches +and the roads in early days. All his life he planted trees and built +roads, and at his great Rancho Chico is one of the largest orchards in +the state. Part of his life-work was to help a tribe of savage Indians +to be good American citizens, and as one of the fathers of California +he should always be remembered. +</p> +<p> +Many notable names appear in the days when the finding of gold brought +this shore of the Pacific Ocean before the eyes of the world. Among +these are Gwin, who was chosen senator with Fremont; Larkin, widely +known as the first and last American Consul to California and for his +accounts of the gold discovery; and Halleck, first secretary of the +state and afterward General Halleck. +</p> +<p> +The streets of San Francisco honor some of the citizens of 1848 and +1849: Geary, the first postmaster; Leavenworth and Hyde, the first +alcaldes or mayors; Van Ness, Broderick, Turk, and McAllister, +recalling prominent men of those days. Spanish families like Sanchez, +Castro, Noe, Bernal, and Guerrero had also a place on the city map. +Indeed, every town has some native Californian names in and around it. +</p> +<p> +Don Victor Castro, said to be the first white child born in San +Francisco, died lately at San Pablo in the house he had built sixty +years ago. He was called the last of the Spanish grandees, those dons +who, before the Gringos came, had estates that stretched miles away +on every hand, and thousands of cattle with many Indian servants. Don +Victor built and ran the first ferry across San Francisco Bay. +</p> +<p> +Sacramento was laid out as a town for Sutter by three lieutenants of +the U.S. army: Warner, who was afterwards killed by Indians; Ord, +who was a general in the Civil War, while the third, in after years +"marched through Georgia" as General Sherman. Marysville was also laid +out by Sutter, and Stockton by Weber, who owned all the land around +it. +</p> +<p> +In 1849 Doctor Gregg and his party found Humboldt Bay. In 1851 +Yosemite Valley was discovered by Major Savage and a company of +soldiers, who were out hunting hostile Indians. This band of Indians +was called the Yosemites, and their old chief's name was Tenaya, for +whom the beautiful lake is named. +</p> +<p> +Those who came to California before 1850 were called pioneers, and +many of them built up great fortunes. Among them were Coleman, the +president of the vigilance committee, Sharon, Flood, Fair, O'Brien, +Tevis, Phelan, and James Lick. Lick was a remarkable man, who gave +away an immense fortune; building the Lick Observatory, a school of +mechanical arts, free public baths, an old ladies' home, and giving +a million to the Academy of Science and the Society of California +Pioneers. +</p> +<p> +In later days the names crowd thickly upon each other. Among editors +and literary men the fearless and ill-fated James King of the +<i>Evening Bulletin</i>, J. Ross Browne, the reporter of the first +convention and a most interesting writer, Derby the humorist, "Caxton" +or W.H. Rhodes, Mark Twain, Bret Harte, the historians Hittell and +Bancroft, and the poet Joaquin Miller may be noted. +</p> +<p> +The governors of the state have been men remarkable as brilliant +speakers or lawyers and as wise rulers. In 1875, during the time of +Pacheco, the first native-born governor, the order of "Native Sons of +the Golden West" was formed, which now numbers over ten thousand young +California men. The "Native Daughters," a sister society, follows also +the idea of keeping the love of California warm in the hearts of her children. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_23"><!-- RULE4 23 --></a> +<h2> + OUR GLORIOUS CLIMATE +</h2> + +<p> +Not only a glorious but in many ways a wonderful climate is enjoyed +by the people of California's sea-coast and mountains, her valleys and +foot-hills. In no other state can one find so many kinds of weather +in such short distances. For instance, in Southern California you may +pick flowers and oranges in almost tropical gardens, and in an hour +find winter and throw snowballs on the high mountains overlooking the +roses and orange groves you so lately left. +</p> +<p> +Only in the mountains, along that granite backbone of the state known +as the Sierra Nevadas, are there four seasons, the spring, summer, +autumn, and winter common to most of the United States. So the Sierras +have a distinct climate of their own. The Sacramento and San Joaquin +river valleys have another climate peculiar to themselves, while south +of latitude 35 degrees the coast has less rain and is warmer than the +coast counties north of that line. +</p> +<p> +In the greater part of the state the year is divided into a dry summer +and a wet winter. The rains begin in October, and the first showers +fall on dry, brown hills and dusty fields baked hard by steady +sunshine since May. After these showers the grass springs up, and +the fields are green almost as quickly as if some fairy godmother had +waved her wand. An army of wild flowers, whose seeds were hidden in +the brown earth, wakes when the rain-drops patter, and the plants get +ready to bloom in a month or so. For this season, from November to +February, with little frost and no ice nor snow, is winter in name +only. Roses and violets bloom in the gardens and yellow poppies on the +hills. +</p> +<p> +People expect and hope for much rain in this so-called winter, since a +wet year assures good crops to the state. But the amount of rain that +falls is very uncertain. It does not rain every day, nor all day, as a +rule, and each storm seems different. Sometimes a "southeaster" blows +up from the Japan Current, or Black Stream, as the Japanese call the +warm, dark-blue waters that pour out of the China Sea. This current of +the Pacific Ocean flows along our coast in a mighty river a thousand +miles wide, and gives California its peculiar climate of cool summers +and moist, warm winters. The southeasterly wind ruffles the bay with +white-capped waves and dashes sheets of rain against window and roof. +Then the wind changes, and all the clouds go flying to north or east, +while from the clear blue sky brilliant sunshine pours down to make +the grass and flowers grow. During the winter months the sun is strong +and warm enough to make out-door life delightful. +</p> +<p> +The farmer depends greatly upon the rainfall. In a wet winter the +moisture sinks far into the ground, but not so deep that the thirsty +little roots cannot find it in the summer. Early rains are needed to +soften the ground for November ploughing, and young grain and crops of +all kinds need rain through April. In the northern part of the state +the wet season begins earlier and lasts longer than in the south, +while the southeastern corner is an almost rainless desert. +</p> +<p> +In San Francisco the thermometer seldom falls below 45° in the winter, +the average for the season being 51°. Perhaps in January or February +the sidewalks may be white with frost in the mornings, or hail may +fall during some cold rain-storm. Once in five years or so, enough +snow falls to make children go wild with delight over a few snowballs +which are very soon melted. People can be comfortable the year round +without fires, and the clear, bright winter days with soft air and +warm sunshine are always pleasant enough to spend outdoors. This +ocean climate, due to the warm sea air, is enjoyed by the counties +facing the coast and San Francisco Bay. In the valleys of the interior +white frosts are frequent, and thin ice forms on the wayside puddles. +Once in a while killing frosts destroy fruit blossoms and cut down the +garden flowers and vegetables, but seldom do more damage. +</p> +<p> +In mountain regions, above five or six thousand feet, the very cold +winter lasts six or seven months. Snow falls almost constantly and +drifts to a great depth. Small lakes are frozen and buried in snow, +and the trees are bent and weighed down with ice and sleet. Many of +the wild animals come down to the foot-hills below the snow-line to +spend the winter; but the bear curls himself up in his warm cave and +sleeps through the cold months. In this snowy zone of the Sierras, +about thirty miles wide, winter lasts from the first snowfall, about +the end of October, to the late spring of June. Then July and August +are months of glorious weather, with clear, dry air and a cloudless +sky. During the day the temperature of about 80 degrees melts much +snow, and the rivers carry it away in rushing torrents and falls of +icy water. In September the frost turns the leaves of all but the +evergreen trees beautiful colors of red and yellow. Indian summer +comes during September and October, when the days are sunny and warm, +and then the long winter sets in again. Peaks above eight thousand +feet are snow-clad on their crests and along their sides by deep +drifts the year round. +</p> +<p> +Along the Pacific coast in summer cool sea-winds, called trade-winds, +blow in from the ocean, and 60 degrees is the average temperature. The +farther you go inland from the coast, the hotter it gets, and the heat +is very great in the interior of the state. In the San Joaquin and +Sacramento valleys it is often over 100 degrees in the shade, though +this dry heat is not hard to bear, and the nights are always cool +enough for one to sleep in comfort. +</p> +<p> +Summer fogs are usual in the coast counties. The mornings are pleasant +and sunny till about eleven o'clock. At this time the sun's rays +grow stronger in the interior valleys, and the hot air rises while +trade-winds rush in from the cold ocean and fog settles down like a +thick, gray cloud over the bay and hills. July and August are cold and +foggy along the coastline, with strong west winds almost every day. In +September the winds die away, and sometimes a shower or two falls. +</p> +<p> +The rainless desert, or southeastern corner of our state, is the +hottest region of all. Here the sun glares down till sand and rocks +seem heated by a fiery furnace. Every living creature gasps and pants +for breath in the scorching heat. There are no trees, but only cactus, +that queer, prickly, thorny plant, often fifteen or twenty feet +high in these wastes of sand, and low greasewood bushes. Under this +vegetation snakes, lizards, and horned toads bask all day and search +for food at night. If travellers wander from the road in crossing the +desert, they are easily lost, and sometimes they die or go mad in the +terrible heat. There are no springs, and water stations are a long way +apart, so that lost people usually die of thirst. As the heat of the +sun's rays quivers over the burning sands, a curious sight called +a mirage is often produced. A cool, glassy lake or flowing river +bordered with green trees seems pictured in the air, and the hot and +weary traveller can scarcely believe that only sand and rocks are +before him. +</p> +<p> +Can you tell which season you like the best? You will find the one you +choose in some part of this favored state. It is always summer in the +south, and you may slide on the ice or throw snowballs all year in the +high Sierras. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="RULE4_24"><!-- RULE4 24 --></a> +<h2> + SOME WONDERFUL SIGHTS +</h2> + +<p> +California is a wonderland where snowy mountains, mighty and ancient +forests, glaciers and geysers, lakes and waterfalls, foaming rivers +and the cliffs and rolling surf down her long sea-coast give new and +beautiful pictures at every place. +</p> +<p> +Through the whole state stretches the granite backbone of the Sierra +Nevadas with its highest crest or ridge at the head-waters of the +Kings and Kern rivers near Fresno. Here Mount Whitney and a dozen +other great peaks of the High Sierras or California Alps lift their +heads over thirteen thousand feet in the air. Here are to be seen most +magnificent panoramas of lofty peaks, deep cañons, towering domes, and +snow-clad summits. The finest forests, too, in the world grow on the +slopes of the Sierras, the immense pines and giant <i>sequoias</i> of +the General Grant and other National Parks in this section being the +largest and oldest of all. Kings River cañon is a rugged gorge half a +mile deep with the river rushing through it in thundering rapids and +cascades. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustrations: 'El Capitan' mountain; Yosemite Falls" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1194a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1194a.jpg" width="152" height="150" border="0" + alt="'EL CAPITAN' (3300 feet in height)"> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">"EL CAPITAN"<br>(3300 feet in height) + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><br> <a href="images/lg1194b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1194b.jpg" width="155" height="150" border="0" + alt="YOSEMITE FALLS."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">YOSEMITE FALLS. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +The well-known Yosemite Valley is the gorge of the Merced River and, +though only eight miles long and half a mile wide, holds the grandest +of all our mountain scenery. The mighty rock El Capitan, over three +thousand feet in height, stands at the entrance to the valley, and +across from it is Bridal Veil Fall, a snowy cascade so thin you can +see the face of the mountain through the falling waters. There are +many waterfalls, but the Yosemite is chief of them all. Here the river +takes a plunge of sixteen hundred feet, the water falling like snowy +rockets bursting into spray from that great height. +</p> +<p> +Then, for six hundred feet more, the torrent leaps and foams through +a trench it has cut out of the solid rock to the cliff, from which it +takes a second plunge. This Lower Yosemite fall is four hundred feet +high, the rushing waters turning into clouds of spray, which the wind +tosses from side to side. At Nevada Fall the Merced River leaps six +hundred feet at a bound, strikes a mass of rocks halfway down, and +breaks into white foam upon which rainbows play when the sun shines +through the misty veil. +</p> +<p> +Besides the grand Sentinel Rock, Eagle Peak, Clouds' Rest, and other +high mountains in the Yosemite Valley, many domes or round-topped +peaks like the heads of buried giants loom up, the most famous being +South Dome, Washington Column, Liberty Cap, and Mount Broderick. +</p> +<p> +But no one can picture this wonderful valley with pen or brush or +camera and give its real charm. You must see it yourself to know and +understand the beauty of great mountains and falling waters, of Mirror +Lake with its fine reflections of the surrounding scenery, and of the +rushing torrent of the Merced River in its swift coursing through this +mighty cañon of the Yosemite. Thousands of tourists and sightseers +visit the valley from May to October. Then snow begins to fall and +winter sets in, as it does everywhere in the high Sierras. Very deep +snow-drifts cover the ground, lakes and rivers freeze, and the great +falls are fringed with icicles, while a large ice cone forms at the +foot of the falling water. Many beautiful pictures may be found in +the valley in winter when Jack Frost is ruler of all the snow-clad, +ice-bound cañon. +</p> +<p> +Scattered throughout the Sierras are other valleys almost as fine +as the Yosemite. These are not often reached by the army of summer +sight-seers, but true mountaineers find them. One valley which has +fine scenery is the Grand cañon of the Tuolumne, the gorge being +twenty-five miles long, with walls so high and steep that once entered +one must go through to the end. The Tuolumne River rushes, with +terrible force and speed, in cascades and rapids down the granite +stairway which is the floor of this cañon. The walls of the gorge +rise so high that the traveller only sees a tiny strip of blue sky far +above him, and the great pine trees on top of these cliff walls seem +only the length of one's finger. +</p> +<p> +It is supposed that all these valleys have been formed by glaciers, +which during the ice age, thousands of years ago, filled the cañons +and swept over the mountains. These masses of ice, moving very slowly, +ground and tore up the rocks under and around them till deep gorges +and steep, high cliffs were left in their tracks. Most of the glaciers +melted long ago, but on Mount Lyell, on Shasta, and a few of the +Sierra summits may still be found those ever-living ice-rivers, the +one on Mount Lyell being the source of the Tuolumne River. +</p> +<p> +California is rich in lakes, especially in the mountains where the +melting snows gather in every hollow and form lakelets in chains or +groups, or in one large body of water like Tahoe, Donner, or Tenaya +lakes. +</p> +<p> +One of the most beautiful lakes in the world is Lake Tahoe. It is six +thousand feet above sea-level, and the mountains around it rise four +thousand feet higher. On these peaks snow-drifts lie the year round +above the "snow-line," as a height over eight or nine thousand feet +is called. Nevada, treeless and barren, is on the eastern side of +Lake Tahoe, while the western or California side is green and thickly +wooded with beautiful pines. But the first thing one would notice, +perhaps, is the wonderful clearness of the lake water. As one stands +on the wharf the steamer <i>Tahoe</i> seems to be hanging in the clear +green depths with her keel and twin propellers in plain sight. The +fish dart under her and all about as in some large aquarium. There a +big lake-trout shoots by like a silver streak of light, or here is a +school of hundreds of little fingerlings. Every stick or stone shows +on the bottom as one starts out on the steamer, and as one sails +along where the water is sixty or seventy feet deep. In the middle +the lake's depth is fifteen hundred feet and the water is a dark +indigo-blue. At the edge and along shallow places the color is bright +green, as at Emerald Bay, a beautiful inlet three miles long. Lake +Tahoe is twenty miles in length and about five wide, and its icy cold +waters are of crystal clearness and very pure. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Fallen Leaf Lake" +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1191a.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1191a.jpg" width="160" height="148" border="0" + alt="FALLEN LEAF LAKE."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">FALLEN LEAF LAKE. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Fallen Leaf Lake is a smaller Tahoe, and Donner Lake, not far from +Truckee, and now the camping-place of many a summer visitor, is the +place where years ago the Donner overland party spent a terrible +winter in the Sierra snows. +</p> +<p> +Clear Lake and the Blue Lakes in Lake County are delightful places +to visit, and in this county, too, are the geysers. Some wonderful +curiosities are seen here. You will find springs that spout up a +stream of hot water every few minutes, mineral springs from which +you can have a drink of soda water, and an acid spring that flows +lemonade. Alum, iron, or sulphur waters, either hot or cold, bubble +up out of the ground at every turn. At one spring you may boil an +egg. Other springs are used for steam baths and also hot mud-baths. In +Geyser cañon is the strange place every sight-seer hurries to at once. +Such rumblings and thunderings, such hot vapors and gases come from +the cracks in the ground, that the Indians thought this was the +workshop where the bad spirit which white people call the devil used +to live and work. The deeper one goes into this cañon, the hotter and +noisier it gets. All round are signs telling where it is dangerous +to step, while the ground is hot, and boiling water runs by in little streams. +Steam rises from many pools, and the sulphur smell almost chokes one. +Another curious spring, called the devil's inkstand, seems full of ink. +Mount St. Helena, near here, is a dead or extinct volcano, and probably there +are fires in the earth under this region which keep up these steam and +sulphur springs. +</p> + +<table summary="Illustration: Mount Shasta from Strawberry Valley." +align="right" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> <a href="images/lg1191b.jpg"> + <img src="images/sm1191b.jpg" width="160" height="145" border="0" + alt="MOUNT SHASTA FROM STRAWBERRY VALLEY."> + </a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><div align="center" class="caption">MOUNT SHASTA FROM <br>STRAWBERRY VALLEY. + <br>Click photo to see full-sized.</div></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Many of the Sierra summits are capped with volcanic rock, and Lassen's +Peak and Mount Shasta are extinct volcanoes. There are hot springs and +cracks from which steam and sulphur rise on both of these mountains, +and as earthquakes often shake the earth in different parts of the +state we know that underground fires are still at work. A great piece +of land on Mount San Jacinto in Southern California lately sank down +about a hundred feet, and cracks both deep and wide show that some +force from below gave a thorough shaking-up to that part of the state. +</p> +<p> +Mono, Owen's, and several other large lakes are the "sinks" into which +rivers flow and lose themselves in the sandy or marshy shores. These +lakes have soda or salt in their waters, and great stretches of dry +alkali lands around them. The famous Death Valley is a dry lake of +this kind where the sun beats down on the white alkali plain till it +is almost certain death to try to cross it without a guide. The +Salton Sea is a dry lake where almost pure salt is dug out, and great +quantities of borax and of soda are found in other beds, of dried-up +streams and lakes. +</p> +<p> +But to tell of all the curious things nature has to show us in +California,—of the forests of petrified trees, of the caverns cut out +of the ocean cliffs by restless waves, or of those in the mountains or +the Modoc lava-beds,—well, you will see most of them, let us hope, in +your vacations. A large book might be given to the wonderful sights +of this great state, and it may be your fortune to visit and so always +remember a few we have named. +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<div align="center"><h3>PRONOUNCING VOCABULARY</h3></div> + +<p class="list">Alta (äl´-ta).</p> +<p class="list">Amador (am´-a-dore).</p> +<p class="list">Alvarado (al-va-rä´-do).</p> +<p class="list">Ayala (ä-yä´-la).</p> +<p class="list">Bernal (ber-nal´).</p> +<p class="list">Bodega (bo-dā´-ga).</p> +<p class="list">Cabrillo (ka-breel´-yo).</p> +<p class="list">Calaveras (kal-a-vā´-ras).</p> +<p class="list">Carmel (kar´-mel).</p> +<p class="list">Castro (kas´-tro).</p> +<p class="list">Cortes (kor´-tez).</p> +<p class="list">Coloma (ko-lo´-ma).</p> +<p class="list">Diegueño (de-ā-gwān´-yo).</p> +<p class="list">Farallones (făr´-a-lones).</p> +<p class="list">Figueroa (fi-gwa-ro´-a).</p> +<p class="list">Franciscan (fran-cis´-can).</p> +<p class="list">Galvez (gal´-ves).</p> +<p class="list">Gringos (gring´-gos).</p> +<p class="list">Guerrero (gur-rā´-ro).</p> +<p class="list">Junipero Serra (hū-nip´-er-o ser´-ra).</p> +<p class="list">Klamath (klam´-eth).</p> +<p class="list">Los Angeles (los an´-ga-lees).</p> +<p class="list">Marin (ma-rin´).</p> +<p class="list">Mariposa (mar-e-po´-sa).</p> +<p class="list">Martinez (mar-tee´-nes).</p> +<p class="list">Mechoopdas (me-choop´-das).</p> +<p class="list">Mission Dolores (mis´-sion do-lōr´-es).</p> +<p class="list">Modocs (mo´-docs).</p> +<p class="list">Monterey (mon-ta-ray´).</p> +<p class="list">Noe (no´-a).</p> +<p class="list">Ortega (or-tā´-ga).</p> +<p class="list">Pacheco (pä-chā´-ko).</p> +<p class="list">Padres (pa´-drays).</p> +<p class="list">Palou (pa´-loo).</p> +<p class="list">Pio Pico (pe´-o pe´-ko).</p> +<p class="list">Placerville (plăs´-er-vil).</p> +<p class="list">Point Reyes (rays).</p> +<p class="list">Pomos (po´-mos).</p> +<p class="list">Portola (por-to´-la).</p> +<p class="list">San Antonio (san an-tō-ni-ō).</p> +<p class="list">Sanchez (san´-ches).</p> +<p class="list">San Carlos (san kar´-lōs).</p> +<p class="list">San Diego (san de-ā´-go).</p> +<p class="list">San Fernando (san fer-nan´-do).</p> +<p class="list">San Francisco (san fran-cis´-co).</p> +<p class="list">San Gabriel (san ga-brell´).</p> +<p class="list">San Jacinto (san ha-sin´-to).</p> +<p class="list">San Joaquin (san waw-keen´).</p> +<p class="list">San Jose (san ho-say´).</p> +<p class="list">San Juan Bautista (san wawn ba-tis´-ta).</p> +<p class="list">San Juan Capistrano (san wawn kap-is-tra´-no).</p> +<p class="list">San Luis Obispo (san loo-is o-bis´-po).</p> +<p class="list">San Miguel (san mig-gell´).</p> +<p class="list">Santa Barbara (san´-ta bar´-ba-ra).</p> +<p class="list">Santa Catalina (san´-ta kat-a-lee´-na).</p> +<p class="list">Santa Cruz (san´-ta krooz).</p> +<p class="list">Santa Lucia (san´-ta loo-she´-a).</p> +<p class="list">Santa Ysabel (san´-ta ē´-sa-bel).</p> +<p class="list">Santa Ynez (san´-ta e´-nes).</p> +<p class="list">Sausalito (saw-sa-lee´-to).</p> +<p class="list">Sierras (see-er´-ras).</p> +<p class="list">Siskiyous (sis´-ke-yous).</p> +<p class="list">Sonoma (so-no´-ma).</p> +<p class="list">Sutter (sŭt´-ter).</p> +<p class="list">Tahoe (tä´-ho).</p> +<p class="list">Tamalpais (tarm´-el-pies).</p> +<p class="list">Tenaya (te-ni´-ya).</p> +<p class="list">Tulare (too-lar´-ee).</p> +<p class="list">Tuolumne (too-ol´-um-ee).</p> +<p class="list">Ukiah (u-ki´-ah).</p> +<p class="list">Vallejo (väl-yā´-ho).</p> +<p class="list">Viscaino (vees-kä-e´-no).</p> +<p class="list">Wawona (wa-wo´-na).</p> +<p class="list">Yerba Buena (yer´-ba bwā´-na).</p> +<p class="list">Yosemite (yo sem´-e-tee).</p> +<p> </p> +<p class="list">abalone (ab-a-lo´-nee).</p> +<p class="list">adobe (a-do´-bee).</p> +<p class="list">alcalde (al-kal´-day).</p> +<p class="list">arrastra (ar-ras´-tra).</p> +<p class="list">burro (boo´-ro).</p> +<p class="list">cañon (can´-yon).</p> +<p class="list">carne seca (kar´-nā sā´-ka).</p> +<p class="list">cascarone (kas-ka-ro´-na).</p> +<p class="list">chaparral (shap-per-ral´).</p> +<p class="list">coyote (ki-o´-tee).</p> +<p class="list">corral (kor-ral´).</p> +<p class="list">debris (day-bree´).</p> +<p class="list">el toro (el to´-ro).</p> +<p class="list">fandango (fan-dang´-go).</p> +<p class="list">frijoles (free-yo´-lays).</p> +<p class="list">galleon (gal´-le-on).</p> +<p class="list">madroño (ma-dron´-yo).</p> +<p class="list">manzanita (man-zan-ee´-ta).</p> +<p class="list">mantilla (man-tee´-ya).</p> +<p class="list">mahala (ma-ha´-la).</p> +<p class="list">mesa (mā´-sa).</p> +<p class="list">mustangs (mus´-tangs),</p> +<p class="list">presidio (prā-se´-de-o).</p> +<p class="list">pueblos (pū-ā´-blos),</p> +<p class="list">ranche (ransh).</p> +<p class="list">rancheria (ran-sha-ree´-a).</p> +<p class="list">rodeos (ro-da´-os).</p> +<p class="list">senora (sān-yo´-ra).</p> +<p class="list">senoritas (sān-yor-ee´-tas).</p> +<p class="list">sombrero (som-brā´-ro).</p> +<p class="list">sequoias (see-kwoy´-as).</p> +<p class="list">serape (ser-ä´-pay).</p> +<p class="list">teredo (te-rē´-do).</p> +<p class="list">temescal (tem-es-kal´).</p> +<p class="list">tortillas (tor-tee´-yas).</p> +<p class="list">tule (too´-lee).</p> +<p class="list">vaqueros (vä-ka´-ros).</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Stories of California, by Ella M. 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Sexton + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Stories of California + +Author: Ella M. Sexton + +Release Date: August 20, 2004 [EBook #13232] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STORIES OF CALIFORNIA *** + + + + +Produced by Ronald Holder and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. + + + + +[Illustration: NEVADA FALLS (height 617 feet). Yosemite Valley.] + + + + +STORIES OF CALIFORNIA + + +BY + +ELLA M. SEXTON + + +NEW YORK + +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY +LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., LTD. +1903 + + +_All rights reserved_ + + + + +1902, + +BY THE MACMILLAN COMPANY. + + +Set up, electrotyped, and published September, 1902. Reprinted +October, 1903. + + + +Normond Press J.S. Cushing & Co.--Berwick & Smith Co. Norwood, Mass., +U.S.A. + + + + +FOREWORD + + +To recount in simple, accurate narratives the early conditions and +subsequent development of California is the purpose of this book. In +attempting to picture the romantic events embodied in the wonderful +history of the state, and to make each sketch clear and concise as +well as interesting, the author has avoided many dry details and +dates. + +Several of the stories endeavor to explain the remarkable physical +characteristics of California. The work to this end was rendered +lighter by the hope that the reader might find the book merely an +introduction to that larger knowledge of personal observation and +inquiry. + +But the writer's chief aim has been to interest the children of +California in the beautiful land of their birth, to unfold to them the +life and occurrences of bygone days, and to lead them to note and to +enjoy their fortunate surroundings. + +Among the many authorities consulted for the work, special +acknowledgment is due to the historians, Theodore H. Hittell and H.H. +Bancroft. + + + + +CONTENTS + + +CALIFORNIA'S NAME AND EARLY HISTORY + +THE STORY OF THE MISSIONS AND OF FATHER SERRA + +BEFORE THE GRINGOS CAME + +THE AMERICANS AND THE BEAR-FLAG REPUBLIC + +THE DAYS OF GOLD AND THE ARGONAUTS OF '49 + +MINING STORIES + +HOW POLLY ELLIOTT CAME ACROSS THE PLAINS + +THE BUILDING OF THE OVERLAND RAILROAD + +STORY OF THE WHEAT FIELDS + +ORCHARD, FARM, AND VINEYARD + +THE STORY OF THE NAVEL ORANGE + +THE LEMON + +FLOWERS AND PLANTS + +THE BIG TREES AND LUMBERING + +OUR BIRDS + +OUR WILD ANIMALS + +IN SALT WATER AND FRESH + +ABOUT CALIFORNIA'S INDIANS + +THE STORY OF SAN FRANCISCO + +MEN CALIFORNIA REMEMBERS + +OUR GLORIOUS CLIMATE + +SOME WONDERFUL SIGHTS + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + +NEVADA FALLS (height 617 feet), YOSEMITE VALLEY + +FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA + +MISSION CHURCH, MONTEREY + +OLD SAN DIEGO MISSION. Founded 1769 + +MISSION SAN LUIS REY. Founded 1798 + +MISSION DOLORES. Established 1776 + +SANTA BARBARA MISSION. Founded 1786 + +UPPER SACRAMENTO RIVER + +PLACER GOLD MINING. Washing with Cradle + +AN ORANGE TREE WITH FRUIT AND BLOSSOMS + +PALMS OVER 100 YEARS OLD AT LOS ANGELES + +HOP VINES + +AMONG THE HOP VINES + +WHITE SANTA BARBARA POPPY + +WILD CALIFORNIA POPPY + +IN A MISSION GARDEN + +A CHRISTMAS GARDEN + +"WAWONA" (28 feet in diameter) + +THE GRIZZLY GIANT (33 feet in diameter) + +BIG TREES AT FELTON, SANTA CRUZ CO. + +YOUNG TOWHEE + +BABY YELLOW WARBLERS. From photographs by Elizabeth Grinnell + +CALIFORNIA RED DEER. From a photograph by George V. Robinson + +LEAPING TUNA + +BLACK SEA BASS + +HUMPBACK WHALE (57 feet long) + +TROUT FROM LAKE TAHOE + +INDIAN WOMAN WITH PAPPOOSE + +INDIAN WOMAN WITH BASKETS + +INDIAN BASKETS + +SEAL ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO + +THE NEW CLIFF HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO + +ENTRANCE TO JAPANESE TEA GARDEN, SAN FRANCISCO + +FALLEN LEAF LAKE + +MOUNT SHASTA FROM STRAWBERRY VALLEY + +"EL CAPITAN" (3300 feet in height) + +YOSEMITE FALLS + +NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ + +[Compiler's note 1: Four illustrations were omitted from the published +book, but were listed in the Illustrations pages.] + + + + +STORIES OF CALIFORNIA + + + + +STORIES OF CALIFORNIA + +CALIFORNIA'S NAME AND EARLY HISTORY + + +A Spanish story written four hundred years ago speaks of California as +an island rich in pearls and gold. Only black women lived there, the +story says, and they had golden spears, and collars and harness of +gold for the wild beasts which they had tamed to ride upon. This +island was said to be at a ten days' journey from Mexico, and was +supposed to lie near Asia and the East Indies. + +Among those who believed such fairy tales about this wonderful island +of California was Cortes, a Spanish soldier and traveller. He had +conquered Mexico in 1521 and had made Montezuma, the Mexican emperor, +give him a fortune in gold and precious stones. Then Cortes wished +to find another rich country to capture, and California, he thought, +would be the very place. He wrote home to Spain promising to bring +back gold from the island, and also silks, spices, and diamonds from +Asia. For he was sure that the two countries were near together, and +that both might be found in the Pacific Ocean, or South Sea, as he +called it, by sailing northwest. + +So for years Cortes built ships in New Spain (or Mexico), and sent out +men to hunt for this golden island. They found the Gulf of California, +and at last Cortes himself sailed up and down its waters. He explored +the land on both sides, and saw only poor, naked Indians who had a few +pearls but no gold. Cortes never found the golden island. We should +remember, however, that his ships first sailed on the North Pacific +and explored Lower California, and that he first used the name +California for the peninsula. + +It was left for a Portuguese ship-captain called Cabrillo to find the +port of San Diego in 1542. He was the first white man to land upon +the shores of California, as we know it. Afterwards he sailed north to +Monterey. Many Indians living along the coast came out to his ship +in canoes with fish and game for the white men. Then Cabrillo sailed +north past Monterey Bay, and almost in sight of the Golden Gate. But +the weather was rough and stormy, and without knowing of the fine +harbor so near him, he turned his ship round and sailed south again. +He reached the Santa Barbara Islands, intending to spend the winter +there, but he died soon after his arrival. The people of San Diego +now honor Cabrillo with a festival every year. He was the sea-king who +found their bay and first set foot on California ground. + +About this time Magellan had discovered the Philippine Islands, and +Spain began to send ships from Mexico to those islands to buy silks, +spices, and other rich treasures. The Spanish galleons, or vessels, +loaded with their costly freight, used to come home by crossing +the Pacific to Cape Mendocino, and then sailing down the coast of +California to Mexico. Before long the English, who hated Spain and +were at war with her, sent out brave sea-captains to capture the +Spanish galleons and their cargoes. Sir Francis Drake, one of the +boldest Englishmen, knew this South Sea very well, and on a ship +called the _Golden Hind_ (which meant the Golden Deer), he came to the +New World and captured every Spanish vessel he sighted. He loaded +his ship with their treasures, gold and silver bars, chests of +silver money, velvets and silks, and wished to take his cargo back to +England. He tried to find a northern, or shorter way home, and at last +got so far north that his sailors suffered from cold, and his ship was +nearly lost. Obliged to sail south, he found a sheltered harbor near +Point Reyes, and landed there in 1579. Drake claimed the new country +for the English Queen, Elizabeth, and named it New Albion. A great +many friendly Indians in the neighborhood brought presents of feather +and bead work to the commander and his men. These Indians killed +small game and deer with bows and arrows, and had coats or mantles +of squirrel skins. + +[Illustration: FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA.] + +Drake and his sailors repaired and refitted their vessel during the +month they stayed at Drake's Bay. They made several trips inland also +and saw the pine and redwood forests with many deer feeding on the +hills; but they did not discover San Francisco Bay. On leaving New +Albion, Drake sailed the _Golden Hind_ across the Pacific to the East +Indies and the Indian Ocean, and round the Cape of Good Hope home to +England, with all the treasure he had taken. The queen received him +with great honors and his ship was kept a hundred years in memory of +the brave admiral, who had commanded it on this voyage. + +During the next century several English commanders of vessels sailed +the South Sea while hunting Spanish galleons to capture, and these +ships often touched at Lower California for fresh water. Some of +the captains explored the coast and traded with the Indians, but no +settlements were made. + +Then the Spanish tried to find and settle the country they had heard +so many reports of, thinking to provide stations where their trading +ships might anchor for supplies and protection. Viscaino, on his +second voyage for this purpose, landed at San Diego in 1602. Sailing +on to the island he named Santa Catalina, Viscaino found there a tribe +of fine-looking Indians who had large houses and canoes. They were +good hunters and fishermen and clothed themselves in sealskins. +Viscaino went on to Monterey and finally as far north as Oregon, but +owing to severe storms, and to sickness among his sailors, he was +obliged to return to Mexico. + +For a long time after this failure to settle upon the coast, the +Spanish came to Lower California for the pearl-fisheries. Along the +Gulf of California were many oyster-beds where the Indians secured +the shells by diving for them. Large and valuable pearls were found +in many of the oysters, and the Spanish collected them in great +quantities from the Indians who did not know their real value. + +In this peninsula of Lower California fifteen Missions, or +settlements, each having a church, were founded by Padres of the +Jesuits. But later the Jesuits were ordered out of the country, and +their Missions turned over to the Franciscan order of Mexico. + +With the coming of the Franciscans a new period of California's +history began. Spain wished to settle Alta California, or that region +north of the peninsula, and Father Serra, the head and leader of these +Franciscans, was chosen to begin this work. + +How he did this, and how he and his followers founded the California +Missions you will read in the story of that time. + + + + +THE STORY OF THE MISSIONS AND OF FATHER SERRA + + +The old Missions of California are landmarks that remind us of Father +Serra and his band of faithful workers. There were twenty-one of their +beautiful churches, and though some are ruined and neglected, others +like the Mission Dolores of San Francisco and the Santa Barbara and +Monterey buildings are still in excellent condition. From San Diego to +San Francisco these Missions were located, about thirty miles apart, +and so well were the sites chosen that the finest cities of the state +have grown round the old churches. + +Father Junipero Serra was the president and leader of the Franciscan +missionaries and the founder of the Missions. He had been brought up +in Spain, and had dreamed from his boyhood of going to the New +World, as the Spanish called America, to tell the savages how to be +Christians. He began his work as a missionary in Mexico and there +labored faithfully among the Indians for nearly twenty years. But as +his greatest wish was to preach to those in unknown places he was glad +to be chosen to explore Alta or Upper California. + +Marching by land from Loreto, a Mission of Lower California, Father +Serra, with Governor Portola and his soldiers, reached San Diego in +1769. Here he planted the first Mission on California ground. The +church was a rude arbor of boughs, and the bells were hung in an oak +tree. Father Serra rang the bells himself, and called loudly to the +wondering Indians to come to the Holy Church and hear about Christ. +But the natives were suspicious and not ready to listen to the good +man's teachings, and several times they attacked the newcomers. +Finally, after six years, they burnt the church and killed one of the +missionaries. But later on there was peace, and the priests, or Padres +as they were called, taught the Indians to raise corn and wheat, and +to plant olive orchards and fig trees, and grapes for wine. They built +a new church and round it the huts, or cabins, of the Indians, the +storehouses, and the Padre's dwelling. In the early morning the bells +called every member of the Mission family to a church service. After a +breakfast of corn and beans they spent the morning in outdoor work or +in building. At noon either mutton or beef was served with corn and +beans, and at two o'clock work began again, to last till evening +service. A supper of corn-meal mush was the Indians' favorite +meal. They had many holidays, when their amusements were dancing, +bull-fighting, or cock-fighting. + +San Diego, called the Mother Mission, because it is the oldest church, +is now also most in ruins. But its friends hope to put new foundations +under the old walls, and to recap firm ones with cement, and preserve +this monument of early California history. + +After Father Serra had started the San Diego settlement he set sail +for Monterey. Landing at Monterey Bay, he built an altar under a large +oak tree, hung the Mission bells upon the boughs, and held the usual +services. The Spanish soldiers fired off their guns in honor of the +day and put up a great cross. The Indians had never heard the sound of +guns and were so frightened that they ran away to the mountains. The +second Mission was built on the Carmel River, a little distance from +the site of the first altar. This was called San Carlos of Monterey, +and the settlement was the capital of Alta California for many years. +It was also the Mission that Father Serra loved the best, and after +every trip to other and newer settlements he returned to San Carlos as +his home. This Monterey Mission is well preserved, and books, carved +church furniture, and embroidered robes used in the old services are +still shown. + +At both San Diego and Monterey a presidio, or fort, was built for the +soldiers. These forts had one or two cannon brought from Spain, and +had around them high walls, or stockades, to protect, if it should be +necessary, the Mission people from the Indians. The cannon were fired +on holidays, or to frighten troublesome Indians. + +All the Mission buildings were of brown clay made into large bricks +about a foot and a half long and broad, and three or four inches +thick. These bricks, dried in the sun, were called adobes, and were +plastered together and made smooth by a mortar of the same clay. +Then the walls were coated outside and inside with a lime stucco and +whitewashed. The roof timbers were covered with hollow red tiles, each +like the half of a sewer pipe, and these were laid to overlap each +other so that they kept the rain out. The floors were of earth beaten +hard, and the windows had bars or latticework, but no glass. The large +church was snowy white within and without and had pictures brought +from Spain and much carved furniture, such as chairs, benches, and +the pulpit made by the Indians. One or two round-topped towers and +five or six belfries, each holding a large bell, were on the church roof, +and a great iron cross at the very top. + +[Illustration: MISSION CHURCH, MONTEREY.] + +[Illustration: OLD SAN DIEGO MISSION. Founded 1769.] + +Night and morning the Mission bells rang to call the Indians to mass +or service, and chimes or tunes were rung on holidays or for weddings. +These Mission bells were brought from Spain, and it was thought a +blessing rested on the ship which carried them, and that shipwreck +could not come to such a vessel. We read of one captain joyfully +receiving the Mission bells to take to San Diego. When nearing the +coast his vessel struck a rock, yet passed on in safety because, as +he said, no harm could happen with the bells on board. On his journeys +every missionary carried a bell with him for the new church he was to +build. Father Serra's first act on reaching a stopping-place was to +hang the bell in a tree and ring it to gather the Indians and people +for service. + +San Antonio, a very successful Mission, was the third one established, +and it was in a beautiful little valley of the Santa Lucia Mountains. +Every kind of fruit grew in its orchards, and the Indians there were +very happy and contented, and in large workshops made cloth, saddles, +and other things. San Gabriel, not far from Los Angeles and sometimes +called the finest church of all, was the next to be built. This was +the richest of the Missions and had great stores of wool, wheat, and +fruit, which the hard-working Indians earned and gave to the church. +The Indians, indeed, were almost slaves, and worked all their +lives for the Padres without rest or pay. At San Gabriel the first +California flour-mill worked by a stream of water turning the wheel, +was put up. Some of the old palms and olive trees are still growing +there. + +San Juan Capistrano, founded in 1776, was one of the best-known +Missions, for it had a seaport of its own at San Juan. Vessels came to +its port for the hides and tallow of thousands of cattle herded round +the Mission. The first fine church of this Mission was destroyed by +an earthquake, and many people were killed by its falling roof. It was +rebuilt, however, and still shows its fine front, and long corridors +or porches round a hollow square where a garden and fountain used to +be. + +Old records tell us that Father Serra felt that there should be a +church named in honor of Francis, who was the founder and patron saint +of the Franciscan brotherhood of monks to which these missionaries +belonged. When Father Serra spoke of this to Galvez, that priest +replied, "If our good Saint Francis wants a Mission, let him show us +that fine harbor up above Monterey and we will build him one there." +Several explorers had failed to find this port about which Indians had +spoken to the Spanish. At last Ortega discovered it, and Father Palou, +in 1776, consecrated the Mission of San Francisco. Near the spot was +a small lake called the "Laguna de los Dolores," and from this the +church was at last known as the Mission Dolores. But the great city +bears the Spanish name of Saint Francis, or San Francisco. A fort +was erected where the present Presidio stands, and later a battery +of cannon was placed at Black Point. It is told that the Indians were +very quarrelsome here and fought so among themselves that the Padres +could get no church built for a year. In that part of San Francisco +called the Mission, the old building with its odd roof and three of +the ancient bells is a very interesting place to visit. There are +pictures, and other relics of the past to see, and in the graveyard +many of San Francisco's early settlers were buried. This was the sixth +Mission of Alta California. + +The Santa Barbara Mission, where Franciscan fathers still live, has +a fine church with double towers and a long row of two-story adobe +buildings enclosing a hollow square where a beautiful garden is kept. +One of the brotherhood, wearing a long brown robe just as Father Serra +did, takes visitors into the church, and also shows them the garden +and a large carved stone fountain. This church is built of sandstone +with two large towers and a chime of six bells, and was finished in +1820. + +The Santa Ynez Mission was much damaged by the heavy earthquake that +in 1812 ruined other Missions. Here the Indians raised large crops +of wheat and herded many cattle. Over a thousand Indians, it is said, +attacked this church in 1822, but the priest in charge frightened them +away by firing guns. This warlike conduct so displeased the Padres, +who wished the natives ruled by kindness, that the poor priest was +sent away from the Mission. + +One of the early Missions was San Luis Obispo, where services are +still held. It was specially noted for a fine blue cloth woven by +the Indians from the wool of the Mission flocks of sheep. The Indians +there also wove blankets, and cloth from cotton raised upon their own +lands. + +San Juan Bautista, or St. John the Baptist, north of Monterey, had a +splendid chime of nine bells said to have been brought from Peru and +to have very rich, mellow tones. San Miguel had a bell hung up on a +platform in front of the church, and now at Santa Ysabel, sixty miles +from San Diego, where the Mission itself is only a heap of adobe +ruins, two bells hang on a rude framework of logs. The Indian +bell-ringer rings them by a rope fastened to each clapper. The bells +were cast in Spain and much silver jewellery and household plate were +melted with the bell-metal. Near them the Diegueno Indians worship in +a rude arbor of green boughs with their priest, Father Antonio, who +has worked for thirty years among the tribe. They live on a rancheria +near by and are making adobe bricks, hoping soon to build a church +like the old Mission long since crumbled away. + +The last of the Missions was built in 1823 at Sonoma, and proved very +active in church work, some fifteen hundred Indians having been there +baptized. + +Father Junipero Serra died at more than seventy years of age, at San +Carlos. During all his life in America he endured great hardships +and suffering to bring the gospel to the heathen as he had dreamed of +doing in his boyish days. A monument to his memory has been erected +at Monterey by Mrs. Stanford, but the Missions he founded are his best +and most lasting remembrances. + + + + +BEFORE THE GRINGOS CAME + + +This is the story Senora Sanchez told us children as we sat on the +sunny, rose-covered porch of her old adobe house at Monterey one +summer afternoon. And as she talked of those early times she worked +at her fine linen "drawn-work" with bright, dark eyes that needed no +glasses for all her eighty years and snow-white hair. + +"When I was a girl, California was a Mexican republic," said the +Senora, "and Los Gringos, as we called the Americans, came in ships +from Boston. They brought us our shoes and dresses, our blankets and +groceries; all kinds of goods, indeed, to trade for hides and tallow, +which was all our people had to sell in those days. For no one raised +anything but cattle then, and all summer long the cows cropped the +rich clover and wild oats till they were fat and ready to kill. In +the fall the Indians and vaqueros, or cowboys as you children call +them, drove great herds of cattle to the Missions near the ocean where +the Gringos came with their ship-loads of fine things and waited for +trading-days. + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN LUIS REY. Founded 1798.] + +[Illustration: MISSION DOLORES. Established 1776.] + +"For weeks every one worked hard, killing the cattle, stripping off +their skins and hanging the green or fresh hides over poles to dry in +the sun. When dried hard and stiff as a board the skins were folded +hair-side in, and were then worth about two dollars apiece. The +beef-suet, or fat, from these cattle was put into large iron kettles +and melted. While still hot it was dipped out with wooden dippers +into rawhide bags, each made from an animal's skin. When cold and hard +these bags of tallow were sewed up with leather strings, and thus they +were taken to Boston. + +"So much beef was on hand at such times that not even the hungry +Indians could eat it all while it was fresh. The nicest pieces were +cut into long strips, dipped into a boiling salt brine full of hot +red peppers and hung up to dry where the sunshine soon turned the meat +into carne seca, or dried beef. We put it away in sacks, and very good +it was all the year for stews, and to eat with the frijoles, or red +beans, and tortillas, which were corn-cakes. + +"All we bought from the Gringos was paid for with hides and tallow, +so it was well, you see, children, that my father owned ten thousand +cattle; for counting relatives and Indian servants, we always had more +than thirty people on our ranch to feed and clothe. We raised grain +and corn and beans enough for the family, but had to buy sugar, +coffee, and such things. + +"Did we have many horses, you say? Yes, droves of them, and we almost +lived on horseback, for no one walked if he could help it, and there +were almost no carriages or roads. Neither were there any barns or +stables, for the mustangs, or tough little ponies, fed on the wild +grass and took care of themselves. Every morning a horse was caught, +saddled and bridled, and tied by the door ready to use. All the ladies +rode, too, and I often used to ride twenty miles to a dance with Juan, +my young husband, and back again in a day or so. + +"Sometimes we went to the rodeo, where once a year the great herds of +cattle were driven into corrals, and each ranchero or farmer picked +out his own stock. Then those young calves or yearlings not already +marked were branded with their owner's stamp by a red-hot iron that +burnt the mark into the skin. After that the bellowing, frightened +animals were turned out to roam the grassy plains for another year. We +had plenty of feasting and merry-making at these rodeos, and a whole +ox was roasted every day for the hungry crowds, so no one went fasting +to bed. + +"Those were gay times, my children," and Senora Sanchez sighed and +sewed quietly for a while till Harry asked her if they kept Christmas +before the Gringos came. + +"Yes, indeed," she said, laughing, "we kept Christmas for a week, +and all our friends and relatives were welcome, so that our big +ranch-house was full of company. Indeed, some of the visitors slept in +hammocks or rolled up in blankets on the verandas. Our house was built +round the four sides of a square garden, with wide porches, where we +sat on pleasant days. There was a fountain in this garden, and orange +trees, which at Christmas-time hung full of golden fruit and sweet +white flowers. On 'the holy night,' as we called Christmas Eve, we +hung lanterns in the porches, and everybody crowded there or in the +garden for their gifts. + +"No, we had no Santa Claus nor Christmas tree, but my father gave +presents to all, even to the Indian servants and their children. A fan +or a string of pearls, perhaps, for my sisters, the young senoritas; a +fine saddle or a velvet jacket for my brother; and red blankets or gay +handkerchiefs for the Indians, with sacks of beans or sweet potatoes +to eat with their Christmas feast of roast ox or a fat sheep. +Afterwards we danced till morning came, or sang to the sweet tinkle +of the guitars. Well do I remember, children, when the good Padres, +or priests, at the Mission forbade us to waltz, that new dance the +Gringos had taught us to like. I recall, also, that the governor only +laughed and said that the young folks could waltz if they wished. +So at my wedding, soon after, when we danced from Tuesday noon till +Thursday morning, you may be sure we had many a waltz. + +"Pretty dresses, Edith? Yes, gay, bright silk or satin ones, with many +ruffles on the skirts and wide collars and sleeves of lace, or yellow +satin slippers and always a high comb of silver or tortoise-shell and +a spangled fan. And we had long gold and coral earrings and strings of +pearls from the Gulf, and, see!" as she pulled aside her neck-scarf, +"here is the necklace of gold beads that was my wedding gift. We +had no hats or bonnets, but wore black lace shawls, or mantillas, to +church, or twisted long silk scarfs over our heads to go riding. + +"You will think the gentlemen were fine dandies in those Mexican days, +when I tell you that they often wore crimson velvet knee trousers +trimmed with gold lace, embroidered white shirts, bright green cloth +or velvet jackets with rows and rows of silver buttons, and red sashes +with long, streaming ends. Their wide-brimmed sombrero hats were +trimmed with silver or gold braid and tassels. They dressed up their +horses with beautiful saddles and bridles of carved leather worked +all over with gold or silver thread and gay with silver rosettes or +buttons. Each gentleman wore a large Spanish cloak of rich velvet or +embroidered cloth, and if it rained, he threw over his fine clothes +a serape, or square woollen blanket with a slit cut in the middle for +the head. + +"Los Gringos used to laugh at the Mexican and his cloak, and not long +after they came the 'Greasers,' as the Americans called the young men +born here in California, began to wear the ugly clothes the Gringos +brought out from Boston. And so the times changed, children, and our +people learned to do everything as the Americans did it and to work +hard and save money instead of dancing and idling away the time. + +"And the bull-fights, Harry? Oh, yes, there was a bull-fight every +Sunday afternoon, and everybody went, as you do to the football games. +The ladies clapped their hands if the sport was good, or if the bull +was killed by the brave swordsman. And if the men got hurt or the +horses,--well, we only thought that was part of the game, you see. El +toro, as we called the bull, always tried to save himself; and if he +was savage and cruel, that was his nature, to try to kill his enemies. +The gay dresses and the music was what I cared for, and then all my +friends were there, also. + +[Illustration: SANTA BARBARA MISSION. Founded 1786.] + +"But you must be tired of my old stories; is it not so, my children? +No, you want to hear about the dances, you say? Well, every party was +a dance; a fandango or ball, if it was given in a hall where everybody +could come, but at houses where just the people came who were invited +we called it only a dance. Every old grandfather or little girl, even, +danced all night long, and the rooms were hung with flags and wreaths. +All the Spanish dances were pretty, and the ladies with their gay +dresses and mantillas, and the gentlemen in velvet suits trimmed +with gold, made a fine picture. At the cascarone, or egg-shell +dance, baskets of egg-shells filled with cologne or finely cut tinsel +or colored papers were brought into the room, and the game was to +crush these shells over the dancers' heads. If your hair got wet with +cologne or full of gilt paper, everybody laughed, and you laughed too, +for that was the game, you know. Ah, there was plenty of merry-making +and feasting in those days, children," and Senora Sanchez sighed again +and went on with her "drawn-work," while the bell in the old Mission +church near by rang five o'clock, and we children ran home talking of +those old times before the Gringos came to California. + + + + +THE AMERICANS AND THE BEAR-FLAG REPUBLIC + + +While Spain owned Mexico and the two Californias, the Missions were at +their best and grew rich in stores of grain and in cattle and horses. +Almost all the people were Spanish or Indians, and they lived at the +Missions or in ranches near by. But when Mexico in 1822 refused to be +ruled by Spain, Alta or Upper California became a Mexican territory, +and, later on, a republic with governors sent from Mexico. The Mission +Padres did not like the change, and thought that Spain should still +own the New World. Before long it was ordered that the Missions should +be turned into pueblos, or towns, and that the Padres were no longer +to make slaves of the Indians. The missionaries were to stay as +priests, and to teach the Indians in schools, but the Mission lands +were to be divided so that each Indian family might have a small farm +to cultivate. From that time the Missions began to decay and were +finally given up to ruin. + +Then Americans began to come in, the first party of hunters and +trappers travelling from Salt Lake City to the San Gabriel Mission. +All kept talking of the rich country where farming was so easy, and +they wished to have land. But the Mexicans and the native Californians +did not believe in allowing the Americans, as they called all the +people from the Eastern states, to take up their farming lands and +hunt and trap the wild animals. So there was much quarrelling. But the +Americans still poured in, got land grants, and built houses. + +In 1836, though Alta California declared itself a free state, and no +longer looked to Mexico for support, Mexican rule still continued. The +United States had wanted California for a long time, and had tried to +buy it from Mexico. The fine bay and harbor of San Francisco, known +to be the best along the coast, was especially needed by the United +States as a place to shelter or repair ships on their way to the +Oregon settlements. England also wanted this bay, but the Californians +tried to keep every one out of their country. + +Among the Americans who came overland and across the Rocky Mountains +about this time was John C. Fremont, a surveyor and engineer, who was +called the "Pathfinder." On his third trip to the Pacific Coast in '46 +he wished to spend the winter near Monterey, with his sixty hunters +and mountaineers. Castro, the Mexican general, ordered him to leave +the country at once, but Fremont answered by raising the American flag +over his camp. As Castro had more men, Fremont did not think it wise +to fight, but marched away, intending to go north to Oregon. He turned +back in the Klamath country on account of snow and Indians, as he +said, and camped where the Feather River joins the Sacramento. It +is almost certain that Fremont wished to provoke Castro and the +Californians into war, and so to capture the country for the United +States. + +A party of Fremont's men rode down to Sonoma, where there was a +Mission, and also a presidio with a few cannon in charge of General +Vallejo. These men captured the place and sent Vallejo and three +other prisoners back to Fremont's camp. Then the independent Americans +concluded to have a new republic of their own, and a flag also. So +they made the famous "Bear-flag" of white cloth, with a strip of red +flannel sewed on the lower edge, and on the white they painted in +red a large star and a grizzly bear, and also the words "California +Republic." They then raised the flag over the Bear-flag Republic. Many +Americans joined their party, but when the American flag went up at +Monterey, the stars and stripes replaced the bear-flag. + +At this time the United States and Mexico were at war on account +of Texas, and Commodore Sloat was in charge of the warships on the +Pacific Coast. The commodore had been told to take Alta California, +if possible; so, sailing to Monterey, he raised the stars and stripes +there in July, 1846, and ended Mexican power forever. The American +flag flew at the San Francisco Presidio two days later, and also at +Sonoma, Sutter's Fort, or wherever there were Americans. The flag was +greeted with cheers and delight. Then Commodore Sloat turned the naval +force over to Stockton and returned home, leaving all quiet north of +Santa Barbara. + +Commodore Stockton sent Fremont and his men to San Diego and, taking +four hundred soldiers, went himself to Los Angeles, where the native +Californians and Mexicans were determined to fight against the rule of +the United States. General Castro and his men and Governor Pico, +the last of the Mexican governors, were driven out of the country. +Stockton then declared that Upper and Lower California were to be +known as the "Territory of California." + +In less than a month, however, the Californians in the south gathered +their forces again and took Los Angeles. General Kearny was sent out +with what was called the "army of the west," to assist Fremont and +Stockton in settling the trouble. Peace was declared after several +battles, and Kearny acted as governor of the new territory, displacing +Fremont. At last, by the treaty which closed the Mexican war in 1848 +Alta California became the property of the United States, and Lower +California was left to Mexico. + +From that time there was peace and quiet, and before long the +discovery of gold brought the new territory into great importance. The +rush to the gold mines brought thousands of men, and as no government +had been provided for the territory, Governor Riley in '49 called a +convention to form a plan of government. + +This Constitutional Convention of delegates from each of California's +towns met in Monterey. The constitution there drawn up lasted for +thirty years, and under it our great state was built up. It declared +that no slavery should ever be allowed here, and settled the present +eastern boundary line. + +The first Thanksgiving Day for the territory was set by Governor +Riley, in '49. The first governor elected by California voters was +Burnett, and in the first legislature Fremont and Gwin were chosen +as senators. Congress at last admitted California into the Union by +passing the California bill. On September 9, 1850, President Fillmore +signed the bill. + +Every year on the 9th of September, or "Admission Day," we therefore +keep our state's birthday. At San Jose, in '99, a Jubilee Day was +held in remembrance of the beginning of state government fifty years +before. + +[Illustration: UPPER SACRAMENTO RIVER.] + +[Illustration: PLACER GOLD MINING. (Washing with Cradle.)] + + + + +THE DAYS OF GOLD AND THE ARGONAUTS OF 1849 + + +California has well earned her name of "Golden State," for from her +rich mines gold to the value of thirteen hundred millions has been +taken. Yet every year she adds seventeen millions more to the world's +stock of gold. No country has produced more of this precious yellow +metal that men work and fight and die for. The "gold belt" of the +state still holds great wealth for miners to find in years to come. + +Long, long ago people knew that gold was here, for in 1510 a Spanish +novel speaks of "that island of California where a great abundance +of gold and precious stones is found." In 1841 the Indians near San +Fernando Mission washed out gold from the river-sands, and other mines +were found not far from Los Angeles. + +But James W. Marshall was the man who started the great excitement +of '48 and '49 by finding small pieces of gold at a place now called +Coloma, on the American River. Marshall, who was born in New Jersey, +came to this state in 1847, and being a builder wished to put up +houses, sawmills, and flour-mills. Finding that lumber was very +dear, he decided to build a sawmill to exit up the great trees on the +river-bank. He had no money, but John A. Sutter, knowing a mill was +needed there, gave Marshall enough to start with. + +So the mill was built, and when it was ready to run Marshall found +that the mill-race, or ditch for carrying the water to his mill-wheel, +was not deep enough. He turned a strong current of water into it, +and this ran all night. Then it was shut off, and next day the ditch +showed where the stream had washed it deeper and had left a heap +of sand and gravel at the end of it. Here Marshall saw some shining +little stones, and picking them up he laid one on a rock and hammered +it with another till he saw how quickly it changed its shape. He was +sure that these bright, heavy, easily hammered pebbles were gold, but +the men working about the mill would not believe it. So he went to +Sutter, who lived near at a place called Sutter's Fort, because his +stores, house, and other buildings were built around a hollow square +with high walls outside to keep off the Indians. Sutter weighed the +little yellow lumps and said they certainly were gold. + +The flood-gates between the mill-race and the river were opened again, +and water ran through the ditch, washing more gold in sight. Sutter +picked up enough of this to make a ring and had these words marked on +it:-- + +"The first gold found in California, January, 1848." + +Both Sutter and Marshall tried to keep what they had found a secret, +but that was impossible, and soon people were flocking to the +gold-fields. Then began a wild excitement known as the "gold-fever," +and men left their stores and houses, gave up business, and left crops +ungathered in a wild chase after nuggets of gold. + +By December of 1848, thousands of miners were washing for gold +all along the foot-hills from the Tuolumne River to the Feather, +a distance of 150 miles. A hundred thousand men came to California +during 1849, these Argonauts, or gold-hunters, taking ship or steamer +for the long trip from New York by the Isthmus of Panama. Some went +round Cape Horn, or else made a weary journey overland across the +plains. "To the land of gold" was their motto, and these pioneers +endured every hardship to reach this "Golden State." + +Then the miners, with pick, shovel, and pan for washing out gold from +the gravel it was found in, started out "prospecting" for "pay-dirt." +The gold-diggings were usually along the rivers, and this surface, or +"placer," mining was done by shovelling the "pay-dirt" into a pan or a +wooden box called a cradle, and rocking or shaking this box from side +to side while pouring water over the earth. The heavy gold, either +in fine scales or dust, or in lumps called nuggets, dropped to the +bottom, while the loose earth ran out in a muddy stream. The rich sand +left in pan or cradle was carefully washed again and again till only +precious, shining gold remained. + +So rich were some of the sand bars along the American and Feather +rivers that the first miners made a thousand dollars a day even by +this careless way of washing gold where much of it was lost. Then +again for days or weeks the miner found nothing at all. He would +wander up and down the canons and gulches, prospecting for another +claim, and dreaming day and night of finding a stream with golden +sands, or of picking up rich nuggets. If he found good "diggings" he +would build a rough shanty under the pines, and dig and wash till the +gold-bearing sand or gravel gave out again. Sometimes he had a partner +and a donkey, or burro, to carry tools and pack supplies. More often +the Argonaut cooked his own bacon and slapjacks and simmered his beans +over a lonely camp-fire, and slept wrapped in a blanket under the +trees. If he had much gold, he would go to the nearest town, buy food +enough for another prospecting tramp, and often spend all the rest of +his money in foolish waste. + +Sometimes a company of miners would build a dam across a river or +stream, and turn it from its course, so they could dig out and wash +the rich gravel in the river-bed. A flume, or ditch, would often carry +all the water to a lower part of the river, leaving the bed of the +upper stream dry for miles. In this kind of mining the "pay-dirt" was +shovelled into long wooden boxes called sluices, and a constant stream +of water kept the gravel and earth moving on out to a dumping-place. +The gold dropped down or settled into riffles, or spaces between bars +placed across the bottom of the sluices, and once a week the water was +turned off and a "clean-up" made of the gold. + +It was not long before the rivers, creeks, and gulches had all been +worked over and most of the gold taken out. The miners knew that this +loose gold had been washed out of the hills by the rains and storms of +countless years. So some one thought of using a heavy stream of water +to break down the foot-hills themselves and to carry the gold-bearing +gravel to sluice boxes. This is called hydraulic mining and is the +cheapest way of handling earth, as water does all the work and +very little shovelling is needed. But since a strong water-power is +necessary, a large reservoir and miles of ditches or wooden flumes +must be built, so the first expense is large. The water usually comes +from higher up in the mountains, and is forced under great pressure +through iron pipes, the nozzle or "giant" being directed at the +hillside, which has already been shattered by heavy blasts of powder. +The water tears thousands of tons of earth and gravel apart, and the +muddy stream flows through sluices, where the gold is left. In this +kind of mining a great quantity of debris, or "tailings," must be +disposed of. + +For years this debris was washed into the rivers or on farming lands, +filling up and ruining both, and leading to endless quarrels between +farmers and miners. But at last the courts stopped hydraulic mining +except in northern counties, where debris went into the Klamath River, +upon which no boats could run and near which was little farming. But +all the mines in the Sacramento and San Joaquin river-basins were idle +till, in 1893, Congress appointed a Debris Commission. These mining +engineers issue licenses to work the mines when satisfied that the +debris will be kept out of the rivers. There are in the state many +hundred thousand acres of gold-bearing gravel lands yet untouched, +that could be worked by hydraulic mining. + +In drift-mining the rich gravel is covered by hard lava rock thrown +up by some old volcanic outburst. Tunnels are driven by blasting with +dynamite, or by drilling under the rock to reach the gravel which +usually lies in the buried channel of an old river. The long drifts, +or tunnels, needed are very expensive and only mine owners with +capital can work these claims. + +Richest of all are the quartz mines, where beautiful white rock, rich +with sparkling gold, is found in veins, or "lodes," cropping out of +hillsides or dipping down under the earth. The great "Mother-lode" +of our state runs like an underground wall across Amador, Calaveras, +Tuolumne, and Mariposa counties and has been traced for eighty miles. + +Some poor miner usually finds a ledge of quartz-rock and digs down the +way the ledge goes. He puts up a windlass, worked by hand, over the +well-like hole he has dug out, and hoists the ore out in buckets. But +he soon finds, as the hole or shaft goes deeper, that he must timber +the sides to keep them from caving in, that he must have an engine to +raise the ore and a mill to crush the hard rock. So he sells out to a +company of men, who put in costly machinery, deepen the shaft, and by +heavy expenditure get large returns. + +The quartz ledges dip and turn, so tunnels and cross-cuts are run to +follow the golden vein, and all these are timbered with heavy wooden +supports to keep the earth and rock from falling in on the men. The +miners work in day and night gangs, using dynamite to break up the +hard rock, and sending ore up in great iron buckets, or in cars if the +tunnel ends in daylight, on the hillside. Sometimes the miners +strike water, and that must be pumped out to keep the mine from being +flooded. + +The ore is crushed by heavy stamps, or hammers, and then mixed with +water and quicksilver. This curious metal, quicksilver, or mercury, +is fond of gold and hunts out every little bit, the two metals mixing +together and making what is called an amalgam. This is heated in an +iron vessel, and the quicksilver goes off in steam or vapor, leaving +the gold free. The quicksilver, being valuable, is saved and used +again, while the gold, now called bullion, is sent to the mint to be +coined into bright twenties, or tens, or five-dollar pieces. + +Some of the gold in the crushed ore will not mix with the quicksilver, +and this is treated to a bath of cyanide, a peculiar acid that melts +the gold as water does a lump of sugar. So all of value is saved, and +the worthless "tailings" go to the dump. Even the black sands on the +ocean beach have gold in them. In the desert also there is gold, which +is "dry-washed" by putting the sand into a machine and with a strong +blast of air blowing away all but the heavy scales of gold. + +Though the Argonauts of '49 found much wealth in yellow gold, our +"Golden State," on hillsides, in river-beds, or deep down in hidden +quartz ledges, still holds great fortunes waiting to be found. + + + + +MINING STORIES + + +A large book might be filled with the stories told by the men +who found gold in the early days. Their "lucky strikes" in the +"dry-diggings" sound like fairy tales. Imagine turning over a big rock +and then picking up pieces of gold enough to half fill a man's hat +from the little nest that rock had been lying in for years and years! + +And think of finding forty-three thousand dollars in a yellow lump +over a foot long, six inches wide and four inches thick! This was +the biggest nugget on record and actually weighed one hundred and +ninety-five pounds. The next one, too, you might have been glad to +pick up, as it held a hundred and thirty-three pounds of solid gold. +Little seventy-five and fifty-pound treasures were common, and a +soldier stopping to drink at a roadside stream found a nugget weighing +over twenty pounds lying close to his hand. + +It paid to get up early those days, also for a man in Sonora, while +taking his morning walk, struck his foot against a large stone, and +forgot the pain when he saw the stone was nearly all gold. Another +man, with good eyes, got a fifty-pound nugget on a trail many people +used all the time. One day, after a heavy rain, a man who was leading +a mule and cart through a street in Sonora, noticed that the wheel +struck a big stone; he stooped to lift it out of the way, and found +the stone to be a lump of gold weighing thirty-five pounds. In less +than an hour all that part of the town and the street was staked off +into mining-claims, but no more was found. One of the largest of these +nuggets was found by three or four men, who took it to San Francisco +and the Eastern states, and exhibited it for money. They guarded the +precious thing day and night, but at last quarrelled so that it had to +be broken up and divided between them. + +The first piece Marshall found was said to be worth about fifty cents, +and the second over five dollars. Almost all, though, that was found +was like beans or small seeds or in fine dust. No one tried to weigh +or measure such gold more correctly than to call a pinch between the +finger and thumb a dollar's worth, while a teaspoonful was an ounce, +or sixteen dollars' worth. A wineglassful meant a hundred dollars, +and a tumblerful a thousand. Miners carried their "dust" in a buckskin +bag, and this was put on the counter, and the storekeeper took out +what he thought enough to pay for the things the miner bought. A large +thumb to take a large pinch of the gold-dust meant a good many extra +dollars to the storekeeper in '48 and '49. Yet nearly every one was +honest, and gold might be left in an open tent untouched, for there +was plenty more to be had for the picking up. Those who would rather +steal than work were driven out of camp. + +Some of the "sand bars," or banks of gravel and earth, washed down by +the Yuba River were so rich that the men could pick out a tin cupful +of gold day after day for weeks. One place was called Tin-cup Bar for +this reason. Spanish Bar, on the American River, yielded a million +dollars' worth of dust, and at Ford's Bar, a miner, named Ford, took +out seven hundred dollars a day for three weeks. At Rich Bar, on the +Feather River, a panful of earth gave fifteen hundred dollars. + +Yet the miners were seldom satisfied, but were always prospecting for +richer claims. A man would shoulder his roll of blankets, his pick and +shovel, with a few cooking things, and start off hoping to find some +rich nugget, leaving a fairly good claim untouched. + +The most extravagant prices were charged the miner for everything he +had to buy. Ten dollars apiece for pick and shovel, fifty more for a +pair of long boots, with bacon and potatoes at a dollar and a half a +pound, soon took all his gold-dust to pay for. A dozen fresh eggs cost +ten dollars, and a box of sardines half an ounce of gold-dust, which +was eight dollars. There was no butter to buy, for any milk was +quickly sold at a dollar a pint. The hotels charged three dollars a +meal, or a dollar for a dish of pork and beans, and a dollar for two +potatoes. + +Lumber cost a dollar and a half a foot, but carpenters would not build +houses when they could make fifty dollars a day by mining. As there +was no lumber for the cabin floors, the ground was beaten hard and +really made a good floor. In Placerville the houses were built along +the bed of a ravine, and in sweeping these earthen floors some one saw +gold-dust glittering, and found that rich diggings were under foot. +Thereupon many of the miners dug up their cabin floors, and one man +took about twenty thousand dollars in nuggets and gold-dust from the +small space his cabin covered. + +Very few women and children came to the mines in early days, and the +first white woman to arrive in a camp had all sorts of attentions. +Sometimes the town was named for the woman first in the place as +Sarahsville and Marietta. If a lady visited a mining-camp, the men far +and near would drop work and come in just to look at the visitor. One +lady, who sang for the miners on her arrival in their town, was given +about five hundred dollars' worth of gold-dust. + +A child was a great curiosity, and any pretty little girl was sure to +have a collection of nuggets or a quantity of gold-dust presented to +her. The theatre and circus companies who visited mining-camps soon +found out that a little child who could sing or dance was a great +attraction. The miners used to throw a shower of money or nuggets at +the feet of such little favorites as we throw flowers now. + +As there were no women living here for some time, the men having left +their families at home in the Eastern states, miners had to wash +and cook and make bread for themselves. Men who had been lawyers +or ministers at home, when there was no one else to do such things, +washed their dishes or their red flannel shirts. On Sunday no one +worked at mining, and the men baked bread and cleaned house, and +Sunday afternoons they dried, patched, and mended their clothes. If a +minister was in town, he held services on a hillside, or in the dining +room of some shanty called a hotel, and all the camp came to hear him +speak, or sang the hymns with him. + +So the miners lived and worked and wandered along rivers and rough +mountain trails on the west side of the Sierras, gathering up gold +washed down by mountain streams. These Argonauts, or gold-seekers of +fifty years ago, are almost all dead now, but the treasures they found +made California known throughout the world. Their golden harvest has +made the state richer than they found it, for they used the wealth to +build cities, to cultivate farming-lands, and to plant orchards and +vineyards where the mining-camps used to be. + + + + +HOW POLLY ELLIOTT CAME ACROSS THE PLAINS + + +This is the story of a little girl who in 1849 rode all the way +from Ohio to California in an emigrant wagon. Polly Elliott has +grandchildren of her own now, but she remembers very well the spring +morning when her father came home and said to her mother, "Lizzie, +can you get ready to start for the land of gold next week?" She hears +again her mother saying, "Oh, John, with all these little children?" +She says her father answered by swinging her, the eleven-year-old +Polly, up to his shoulder and calling out, "Here's papa's little +woman; she'll help you take care of them," as he carried her round the +room, laughing. + +This was "back East," as Polly Elliott, now Mrs. Davis, says,--in +Ohio, where they had a pretty white house set round with apple and +peach orchards all white and pink that May day. Her mother cried +because they must leave the house, and because they had to sell all +their furniture and the stock except Daisy, the pet cow, and Buck and +Bright, the oxen, who were to draw the wagon. A round-topped cover of +white cloth was fixed on the big farm-wagon. Then they piled into it +their bedding in calico covers, a chest or two holding clothes and +household goods, a few dishes and cooking things, and plenty of flour, +corn meal, beans, bacon, dried apples and peaches, tied up in sacks. + +Polly says she supposed the trip would just be one long picnic, while +the four children thought it fine fun to "sit on mother's featherbed +and go riding," as they said. So they started off for California. +A long, long ride these emigrants had before them; a weary trip, +plodding along day after day with the patient oxen walking slowly and +the burning sun or pelting rain beating down on the wagon cover. There +was a train of other wagons with them, some pulled by horses but more +by yoked oxen, and the men walked beside the animals and cracked long +whips. A few men were on horseback, but all kept together, for Indians +were plenty and were often hiding near the road, watching for a chance +to cut off and capture any wagons lagging behind the party. + +Day after day, Polly told me, they travelled westward to the setting +sun. They left the orchards and shady woods of Ohio and Indiana far +behind them, and crossed the wide prairies of Illinois and +Missouri also. When they came to rivers they drove through shallow +fording-places, where Polly and the children used to laugh to see the +little fishes swimming round the wagon wheels. Sometimes the rivers +were deep, and the wagons were ferried over on a flatboat that was +fastened to a wire rope, while oxen and horses swam through the water +behind them. If it did not rain, the children and all were happy, and +it did seem like a picnic. But Polly says she never hears the rain +pouring nowadays as it did then, and that there were many times when +they were wet and cold and miserable, and because the wood and ground +were wet they could not even have a fire. + +At night the teams were unhitched and the wagons left in a circle +round a big camp-fire, where supper was cooked. Polly says her mother +used to bake biscuits in an iron spider with red-hot coals heaped on +its iron cover, and these biscuits with fried bacon and tea made +their meal. They always cooked a big potful of corn-meal mush for +the children, and this, with Daisy's milk and a little maple sugar or +molasses, was supper and breakfast too. Then the women and children +cuddled up in the wagons for the night, while men slept, wrapped in +blankets, around the camp-fire or under the wagons, with one always on +guard against danger from prowling Indians or wolves. + +Every man or boy carried a rifle or shotgun, and killed plenty of +game. Deer and antelope were always in sight after they crossed the +Missouri River, and the meat was broiled or roasted over the coals of +their campfire. Wild turkeys and prairie-chicken tasted much better +than bacon, Polly said, and she learned to cook them herself. + +When the emigrants reached Nebraska, they were in the "buffalo +country," and great herds of big, shaggy, brown or black buffaloes +were feeding on the grassy plains. The animals were larger than oxen, +and the Indians depended upon the flesh for food and the thick, warm +skins for robes or blankets. The emigrants shot thousands of buffalo +cows and calves, and what meat could not be eaten at once was cut +into long strips and hung in the sun or over the fire to dry. This +was called "jerking" the meat. On jerked buffalo or venison and flour +pancakes many emigrants lived all the way across. Game was so plenty +and so easy to shoot, that by stopping a few days, a good stock of +meat could be laid in while the oxen were resting. So they travelled +through Nebraska, and for weeks and weeks saw nothing but long grass +waving in the summer winds, and yellow sunflowers--miles and miles of +sunflowers. Polly grew very tired of the hot sun blazing down on the +close-covered wagon, and of the dust raised by the long wagon-train. + +About this time she remembers that her father bought her a little +Indian pony, and from that happy day the child rode beside the wagon, +and could keep out of the dusty trail, or ride a little way off on the +prairie, if she liked. The pony carried double very well, so a small +sister or brother was often lifted on behind for a ride. One night +the Indians, who were always prowling round and coming as near the +wagon-train as they dared, frightened the horses and got away with ten +of them. All the women and children cried, Polly says, for they were +afraid the redskins would come back and kill them. In the morning +Polly's father and some of the men found the Indians' trail and +tracked them to a wooded canon. The hungry thieves had killed one +horse and were so busy feasting on it that the white men surprised +them and shot all the Indians but two or three. The lost horses and +Polly's pony whinnied to their masters from a thicket, where they were +tied, and were taken back to camp. + +On and on over the great plains of Wyoming the wagons carried these +emigrants. Many found the trip grow tiresome, while the oxen and mules +would often lie down in their traces and refuse to go any farther. A +few days' rest, and the rich bunch-grass to crop soon set the stock +all right, and the white-topped wagons crawled ahead again. Soon the +emigrants saw blue, hazy mountains, far off at first, then nearer and +nearer, till at last their road led through a pass between the peaks. + +Then Polly remembers riding through Utah, with its queer red cliffs +and high rocks carved in strange shapes by winds and weather; the +stretches of sandy desert; and beyond those, grassy meadows and +streams fringed with green willows. After a while Great Salt Lake lay +sparkling in the sun and looking cool and blue. All around it were +alkali deserts or wide plains, hot and dusty and white with salt or +soda. The "prairie schooners," with their covers faded and burnt by +the sun, went very slowly over these desert wastes, Polly thought, +and Nevada, with its dusty gray sage-brush land on either side of the +road, seemed not much better. + +"Papa's little woman" had her hands full now; for her mother was so +ill she seldom left the wagon. All the cooking fell to Polly's share, +and then she would ride along for hours with a little sister on her +lap and fat brother "Bub" behind her on the saddle-blanket, so that +her mother might rest and be quiet. + +But soon the clear green Truckee River ran foaming and fretting beside +the road, and off in the west rose the snowy peaks of the Sierra +Nevada Mountains. Then the people began to laugh and to sing, for they +knew that California, the land of gold, was almost in sight and that +their weary journey was nearly ended. + +And one day they said joyfully to each other, "We are in California +at last;" and it was a happy company that travelled down through the +pines of the mountain sides and the oak trees of the foot-hills. Many +emigrants left the train when they got to the great Sacramento River +valley, and settled here and there to farming. Polly's father with +others kept on to the gold-diggings and camped there. He built a +log-cabin soon, for it was almost winter and time for the rains, and +Polly says she was glad to have a house at last. They finally took up +farming land near what is now Stockton, as gold-mining did not pay. + +Mrs. Davis, who is straight and strong, and still a hard worker, says +her five months' trip across the plains was almost like a long picnic +after all, for she has forgotten many of the trying and disagreeable +things. + + + + +THE BUILDING OF THE OVERLAND RAILROAD + + +The army of emigrants and gold-hunters who crossed the plains to +California found it was a long and tiresome trip by wagon-train or on +horseback. The oxen or mules would sometimes get so tired that they +could go no farther; and because the food often ran short, there was +much suffering from hunger. + +The longest way of all to California was by sailing vessel from New +York round Cape Horn, nearly nineteen thousand miles to San Francisco. +The passengers paid high prices and were six months on the way. Those +who came by the Panama route had trouble crossing the isthmus, where +it was so hot and unhealthy that many died of fevers and cholera. The +Pacific mail steamers connecting with a railroad across the isthmus +at last shortened the time of this trip of six thousand miles to +twenty-five days. For ten years all the Eastern mail came this way +twice a month. + +It was thought a wonderful thing when the "pony express" carried mail +twice a week between St. Joseph, Missouri, where the Eastern railroads +ended, and Sacramento. To do this a rider, with the mail-bag slung +over his shoulder, rode a horse twenty-four miles to the next station, +where a fresh pony was ready. Hardly waiting to eat or sleep, the +rider galloped on again. Five dollars was often charged at that time +to bring the letter railroads carry now for two cents. + +So you will see that a railroad to join California to the Eastern +states was a great necessity and had often been talked of. Several +ways to bring the iron horse puffing across the plains and up the +mountains with his long train of cars had been laid out on paper. The +emigrants had found that the best highway from the Missouri River +to California was to keep along the Platte River in Nebraska to Fort +Laramie and the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, then by Salt Lake, +and along the Humboldt and Truckee rivers, crossing the Sierras +at Donner Pass. Other roads were talked of, and Senator Benton of +Missouri favored a nearly straight line between St. Louis and San +Francisco. Some one, in objecting to this, said that only engineers +could lay out a railroad, and such men did not believe a straight line +possible. The senator answered: "There are engineers who never learned +in school the shortest and straightest way to go, and those are the +buffalo, deer, bear, and antelope, the wild animals who always find +the right path to the lowest passes in the mountains, to rich pastures +and salt springs, and to the shallow fords in the rivers. The Indians +follow the buffalo's path, and so does the white man for game +to shoot. Then the white man builds a wagon-road and at last his +railroad, on the trail the buffalo first laid out." + +For two or three years surveyors and explorers tried to find the +easiest way to build this great overland road. Several railroad acts +or bills were passed by Congress, and the California Legislature gave +the United States the right of way for a road to join the two oceans. + +The first railway in the state was opened in '56 from Sacramento to +Folsom, a distance of twenty-two miles. This was built by T.D. +Judah, an engineer who had thought and studied a great deal about the +overland road so much needed to bring mail and passengers quickly from +East to West. + +A railroad convention, made up of men from the Pacific states and +territories, was held in San Francisco in '59, with General John +Bidwell, a pathfinder of early days, as the chairman. Here Mr. Judah +gave such a clear and full account of the central way he had +planned, that the convention sent him to Washington, D.C., to see the +President, and to try to get Congress to pass a Pacific Railroad +Bill. He had very little help in the East, but at last four men +of Sacramento, Leland Stanford, C.P. Huntington, Mark Hopkins, and +Charles Crocker, took an interest in Judah's plans, and in '61 the +Central Pacific Railroad Company was formed. Mr. Judah went back +to the mountains and studied the pines in summer and the winter +snowbanks, to make sure of the easiest grades and the shortest and +best way for the track-layers. He found that to follow the Truckee +River from near Lake Donner to the Humboldt Desert, would mean the +least work. The tunnels would be through rock, and he believed that +snow might easily be kept off the track with a snow-plough. + +His report pleased the company, and they sent him again to present the +case at Washington. In '62 President Lincoln signed an act or bill to +allow the Union and Central Pacific companies to build a railroad and +a telegraph line from the Missouri River to the Pacific. In California +the land for fifteen miles on each side of the way laid out was given +to the railroad company, and two years was allowed them to build the +first hundred miles of track. + +Ground was broken for the Central Pacific the next year in Sacramento, +and Governor Stanford dug up the first shovelful of earth. Then the +work went steadily on, but it was hard to raise money. Stanford +and his company carried the line forward as fast as possible. More +land-grants were given, which doubled the company's holdings, and in +'65 the road was fifty-five miles past Sacramento and had climbed over +much difficult work. + +The steamship owners, the express and stage companies were all against +the railroad, and tried in every way to make people think that an +engine could never cross the Sierras. Yet the grading went on, while +an army of five thousand men and six hundred horses was at work +cutting down trees and hills and filling up the low places. A bridge +was built over the American River, and slowly but surely the track +climbed the steep mountain-sides. Most of the laborers were Chinese, +as white men found mining or farming paid them better. + +In '67 the iron horse had not only climbed the mountains but had +reached the state line, and the Union Pacific, which had been laying +its tracks over the plains of the Platte River, began to hasten +westward. The two railroads were racing to meet each other, and the +Central sometimes laid ten miles of rails in one day. + +Ogden was made the meeting-point, though at Promontory, fifty miles +west of Ogden, the last spike was driven. A thousand people met at +that place in May, '69, to see the short space of track closed and the +road finished. A Central train and locomotive from the Pacific came +steaming up, and an engine and cars from the Atlantic pulled in on +the other side. Both engines whistled till the snow-capped mountains +echoed. The last tie was of polished California laurel wood, with +a silver plate on which the names of the two companies and their +officers were engraved. It was put under the last two rails, and all +was fastened together with the last spike. This spike, made of solid +gold, Governor Stanford hammered into place with a silver hammer. East +and west the news was flashed over the long telegraph line, that the +overland railroad had been finished and that two oceans were joined by +iron rails. + +Now, while flying along in the cars so fast that the trip from Chicago +to San Francisco takes but three days, it is hard to believe that +little more than thirty years ago travellers in the slow-moving +"prairie-schooner" took over five months to cover this same distance. + + + + +STORY OF THE WHEAT FIELDS + + +The Spanish Padres, as the Mission priests were called, taught the +Indians to plough and seed with wheat the lands belonging to the +church or Mission. They used a simple wooden plough, which oxen +pulled. When the warm brown earth was turned up, the Indians broke the +clods by dragging great tree branches over them. After the fall rains +they scattered tiny wheat kernels and covered them snugly for their +nap in the dark ground. + +More rain fell, and soon the soaked seeds waked, and started in +slender green shoots to find the sunshine, and day by day the stalks +grew stronger and the fields greener. Higher and ever higher sprang +the wheat, till summer winds set the tall grain waving in a sea +of green billows. Have you ever watched the wind blow across a +wheat-field? Over and over the long rollers bend the tops of the +grain, that rise as the breeze goes on and bend low again at the next +breath of wind. + +When the hot sun had ripened the grain, and all round the +white-walled, red-roofed Mission the fields stretched golden and ready +for harvest, the Indians cut the wheat, and scattering the bundles +over a spot of hard ground, drove oxen round and round on the sheaves +till the wheat was threshed out from the straw. Then Indian women +winnowed out the chaff and dirt by tossing the grain up in the wind, +or from basket to basket, till in this slow way the yellow kernels +were made clean and ready to grind. + +A curious mill, called an arrastra, ground the grain between two heavy +stones. A wooden beam was fastened to the upper stone, and oxen or a +mule hitched to this beam turned the stone as they walked round. The +first flour-mill worked by water was put up at San Gabriel Mission, +and it was thought a wonderful thing indeed. + +Even in those early days California wheat was known to be excellent, +and many ships came on the South Sea, as they then called the Pacific +Ocean, to load with grain for Mexico or Boston or England. Since that +time our state has fed countless people, and over a million acres of +valley and hill lands are green and golden every year with food for +the world. To Europe, to the swarming people of China, Japan, and +India, to South Africa and Australia, our grain is carried in great +ships and steamers, and hungry nations in many lands look to us for +bread. + +For a long time after the Mission days, all the grain had to be hauled +to the rivers or sea-coast for shipping. Then the overland railroad +was finished, and within the next fifteen years an additional two +thousand miles of railways were built in California, and nearly every +mile opened up rich wheat land that had never been cultivated. Soon +great wheat ranches stretched far over the dry, hot valley plains. + +The ground is ploughed and seeded after November rains, and all winter +the tender blades of grain grow greener and stronger day by day March +and April rains strengthen the crop wonderfully, and June and July +bring the harvest-time. As no rain falls then, the ripe wheat stands +in the field till cut, and afterward in sacks without harm. All the +work except ploughing is done by machinery, and this makes the wheat +cost less to raise, since a machine does the work of many men and the +expense of running it is small. + +Some of the ranches have three or four thousand acres in wheat, and +it may interest you to know how such large farms are managed. The +ploughing is done by a gang-plough, as it is called, which has four +steel ploughshares that turn up the ground ten inches deep. Eight +horses draw this, and as a seeder is fastened to the plough, and back +of the plough a harrow, the horses plough, seed, harrow, and cover up +the grain at one time. There the seed-wheat lies tucked up in its warm +brown bed till rain and sunshine call out the tiny green spears, and +coax them higher and stronger, and the hot sun of June and July ripens +the precious grain. + +Then a great machine called a "header and thresher" is driven into +the field and sweeps through miles and miles of bending grain, cutting +swaths as wide as a street, and harvesting, threshing, and leaving +a long trail of sacked wheat ready to ship on the cars. Thirty-six +horses draw the header, and five or six men are needed to attend to +this giant, who bites off the grain, shakes out the kernels, throws +them into sacks and sews them up, all in one breath, as you might say. +The harvesters work from daylight to dusk, and three-fourths of our +wheat crop is gathered in this way. + +Much golden straw is left, besides that which the "headers" burn as +fuel, and farmers stack this straw for cattle to nibble at. The stock +feed in the stubble fields, too, and strange visitors also come +to these ranches to pick up the scattered grains of wheat. These +strangers are wild white geese, in such large flocks that when feeding +they look like snow patches on the ground. They eat so much that often +they cannot fly and may be knocked over with clubs. In the spring +these geese must be driven away by watchmen with shot-guns to keep +them from pulling up the young grain. + +The largest single wheat-field in California is on the banks of the +San Joaquin River, in Madera County. This covers twenty-five thousand +acres and is almost as flat as a floor. It is nearly a perfect square +in shape, and each side of the square is a little over six miles long. +There are no roads through this solid stretch of grain. Two hundred +men, a thousand horses, and many big machines are needed to work this +wheat-field. + +Some of the big harvesters that cut and thresh the wheat are drawn by +a traction-engine instead of horses. In running a fifty-horse-power +engine high-priced coal had to be burnt but now the coal grates are +replaced by petroleum burners, and crude coal-oil is the cheap fuel. +This does not make sparks to set the fields on fire like burning coal +or straw and so is safer to use. + +On large ranches wheat can be grown for less than a cent a pound, +while it has brought two cents or double the money when sold. But +there are not always good crops, as the grain needs plenty of moisture +in the spring when rains are uncertain. + +The wheat crop of the state has fallen off of late to less than half +the yield of earlier years, but the deep, rich valley soil still grows +grain enough to feed hungry people in Europe, Asia, and Africa, +as well as in our own Union. Great quantities are taken in large +four-masted ships to Liverpool, England, and there made into American +flour. Our own flour-mills turn out thousands of barrels of flour, +and this travels far, too. The first thing picked up in Manila after +Admiral Dewey's victory was a flour sack with a California mill mark. + +It would need a long, long story to tell how far from home and into +what strange places the yellow kernels of California wheat sometimes +travel, or to picture the odd people who depend upon us for food. + + + + +ORCHARD, FARM, AND VINEYARD + + +Long ago the Mission Fathers taught the Indians to plant and to take +care of vines and fruit-trees. They built water-works to bring life to +the thirsty trees in the dry summers, and to grow oranges, limes, +and figs, as well as peaches, apricots, and apples. They trained +grape-vines over arbors and trellises round the Mission buildings, and +from the small, black grapes made wine. Olive trees and date-palms did +well at the southern settlements. But most of these orchards died when +the Mission Fathers were no longer allowed to make the Indians work +for the church property, though a few old palms and olive trees are +still standing. + +During Mexican days each ranch owner raised enough grain or corn and +beans for his own family but planted no fruit, or but little, while +the Americans who came to seek gold thought farming a slow way of +making a living. People soon found out, however, that our fine climate +and rich soil made good crops almost certain, and there was such +demand for fruit and farm products that more and more acres were +cultivated each year. + +Our leading industry now is farming and fruit-growing, and +California's delicious fresh or cured fruit is sent all over the +world. Large amounts of barley and hops are shipped from here to +Europe, and our state produces almost all the Lima beans used in the +country. + +The citrus fruits, as oranges, lemons, and pomelos, or "grape-fruit," +are called, grow in the seven southern counties, or in the foothills +on the western slope of the Sierras. The trees cannot endure frost and +must be irrigated in the summer. Orange trees are a pretty sight, with +their shining green leaves, white, sweet-smelling flowers, and the +green or golden fruit. About Christmas-time, when oranges ripen, both +blossoms and fruit may be picked from the same tree. Los Angeles and +Orange County grow most oranges, but San Diego is first in lemon +culture. Half a million trees in that county show the bright yellow +fruit and fragrant blossoms every month in the year. The other +southern counties also raise lemons by the car-load to send east, or +for your lemonade and lemon pies at home. + +[Illustration: AN ORANGE TREE WITH FRUIT AND BLOSSOMS.] + +[Illustration: PALMS OVER 100 YEARS OLD AT LOS ANGLES.] + +There, too, the olive grows well, that little plum-shaped fruit you +usually see as a green, salt pickle on the table. The Mission Fathers +brought this tree first from Spain, where the poor people live upon +black bread and olives. Olives are picked while green and put in +a strong brine of salt and water to preserve them for eating. Dark +purple ripe olives are also very good prepared the same way. Did you +know that olive-oil is pressed out of ripe olives? The best oil comes +from the first crushing, and the pulp is afterwards heated, when a +second quality of oil is obtained. Olive trees grow very slowly, and +do not fruit for seven years after they are planted. But they live a +hundred years, and bear more olives every season. + +The black or purple fig which grew in the old Mission gardens bears +fruit everywhere in the state. Either fresh and ripe, or pressed flat +and dried, it is delicious and healthful. White figs like those from +abroad have been raised the last few years, and it is hoped in time to +produce Smyrna figs equal to the imported. + +While peach orchards blossom and bear fruit six months of the year in +the south, most of this pretty pink-cheeked fruit grows in the great +valleys, or along the Sacramento River. Pears also show their snowy +blossoms and yellow fruit in the valleys and farther north. The +Bartlett pear is sent to all the Eastern states in cold storage cars +kept cool by ice, and also to Europe. + +The finest apricots are those of that wonderful southern country, +miles and miles of orchards lying round Fresno especially. Yet the +valleys and foot-hills produce plenty, and in the old mining counties +very choice fruit ripens. Apples like the high mountain valleys, where +they get a touch of frost in winter, though there is a cool section of +San Diego County where fine ones are raised. Cherries do well in the +middle and valley regions, the earliest coming from Vacaville, in +Solano County. + +Grapes grow throughout the state, though the famous raisin vineyards, +where thousands of tons are dried every year, are around Fresno. Most +of the raisins are dried in the sun, but in one factory a hundred tons +of grapes may be dried at one time by steam. The raisins are seeded by +machinery, and packed in pretty boxes to send all over the coast, and +through the states, where once only foreign raisins were used. Many +vineyards in the southern part and middle of the state grow only wine +grapes, California wines, champagne, and brandy having a wide use. + +Great quantities of fresh fruits are used in the state or sent away, +while the canneries put up immense amounts, also. Canned fruit reaches +many consumers, but it is expensive. Our cured or dried fruit, however +is so cheap and so good that millions of pounds are prepared every +year. Such fruit ripens on the tree and so keeps all its fine flavor. +It is then dried in the sunshine, which not only fits it for long +keeping but turns part of it to sugar. Apricots, peaches, pears, and +cherries are usually cut in halves or stoned before drying. Prunes are +first on the list of cured fruits, and they seem the best to use as +food. The ripe prunes are dipped into a boiling lye to make the skin +tender, then rinsed and spread in the sun a day or two. They are then +allowed to "sweat" to get a good color, are next dipped in boiling +water a minute or two, dried, and finally graded, a certain number to +the pound, and packed in boxes or sacks. + +Several kinds of nuts grow well in the state. All the so-called +"English" walnuts, with their thin shells, are raised in the south, +Orange County furnishing half the amount we market. Peanuts and +almonds are a good crop there, also, though almond groves are in all +parts of the state. Both paper and thick-shelled almonds are usually +bleached, or whitened, with sulphur smoke to improve their color. + +Santa Barbara and Ventura are the bean counties of the state, and send +Lima beans away by train-loads, while Orange County grows celery for +the Eastern market. Very high prices are received for this celery and +other vegetables sent from California during the winter season when +fields are covered with snow in the East. + +And did you know that the state produces a great deal of sugar? Tons +and tons of sugar-beets are grown throughout the farming lands, and +harvested in September. When the juice of these crushed beets is +boiled and refined, it makes a sugar exactly like cane sugar and much +cheaper. One-fifth of the beet is sugar, it is said. + +Even the dry, worthless mountain sides are valuable to the bee-keeper. +The bees make a delicious honey from the wild, white sage, which grows +where nothing else will live. This sage honey brings the very highest +price. + +Oats are raised in the coast counties, and corn in the valleys, but +owing to cool nights and dry air the corn seldom makes a good crop. +Orange County, however, claims corn with stalks twenty feet high and +a hundred bushels to the acre. In the south, also, that wonderful +forage-plant, alfalfa, will produce six crops a year by irrigation and +give a ton or more to the acre at each cutting. + +Along the upper Sacramento River stretch the great hop-fields full +of tall vines covered with light-green tassels. At hop-picking season +many families have a month's picnic, children and all working day +after day in the fields and pulling off the fragrant hops. Indians, +too, are among the best hop-pickers. The dried hops are bleached with +sulphur, baled, and in great quantities sent to Liverpool, where with +California barley they are used in brewing malt liquors. + +An odd crop is mustard, and at Lompoc, in Santa Barbara County, enough +for the whole country is grown. Both brown and yellow mustard is +cultivated, and the little seeds, almost as fine as gunpowder, are +sold to spice-mills and pickle-factories. + +Whole farms are taken up with the production of flower-seeds or bulbs, +with acres and acres of calla-lilies, roses, carnations, and violets. +The tall pampas-grass, with its long feathery plumes, gives a +profitable crop. Indeed, one can scarcely name a fruit, flower, or +tree that will not thrive and grow to perfection in our mild climate +and rich soil. + + + + +THE STORY OF THE NAVEL ORANGE + + +Who has not enjoyed a juicy navel orange, while wondering at its +peculiar shape and lack of troublesome seeds? Yet few people know that +this particular variety has brought millions of dollars into our state +and made orange growing our third greatest industry. + +Read this story of the seedless orange, this "golden apple of +California," which was first cultivated by Luther Tibbets, of +Riverside, and learn how Southern California has profited by its navel +orange crops. + +Nearly thirty years ago Mr. Tibbets came from New York to this state +and took up free government land near what is now the beautiful city +of Riverside. He was one of the half-dozen pioneer fruit-growers +of that region, and had noticed at the San Gabriel Mission how well +orange trees grew there. His wife and daughter waited in Washington, +D.C., until a home should be ready here for them, and they often sent +Mr. Tibbets plants and seeds from the Department of Agriculture. To +this Department and its gardens in Washington, many curious plants +are forwarded from other countries for growing and experiment in the +United States. New kinds of grain or fruits are carefully cultivated +and watched by the Department, and from it farmers can always get +seeds or cuttings to try on their own farms. + +Mrs. Tibbets often visited the Department gardens, and in 1873 she +wrote to her husband that she could get him some fine orange trees if +he would promise the government to take great care of them and to keep +them apart from other trees till they fruited. Of course he agreed to +give them special attention, and therefore that December he received +three small, rooted orange trees. A cow chewed up one of these, but +for five years the others were watched and tended. Then sweet white +blossoms appeared on each little tree, and afterwards two oranges, +like hard green bullets at first. Finally, in January, 1879, Mr. +Tibbets picked four large, well-flavored, golden oranges, the first +seedless ones ever grown outside of Brazil. + +From the hot swamps of the tropical country at Bahia the United States +Consul had sent six cuttings of this peculiar orange to be planted +in the Washington gardens. All died but the two at Riverside. In 1880 +they bore half a bushel of fruit, and the new seedless oranges were +talked of throughout Southern California. The other orange growers +had been cultivating "seedlings," trees which bore smaller fruit, with +many bitter seeds and a thick skin. Many of these growers now cut back +their seedlings to bare limbs, and grafted the new orange on these +branches. This is called "budding," and is done by cutting off a thin +slip of bark with a tiny folded-up leaf-bud on it, inserting the graft +in the branch to be budded and securing it there with wax to keep the +air out. The little bud drinks in sap from the tree stem, and grows +and blossoms true to its own mother tree. + +There were few orange groves then, but soon nearly all were budded +to the new kind, seventy-five acres being so changed on the Baldwin +Ranch; and when these trees began to bear, some five years afterwards, +people were much excited over the seedless fruit. + +Such high prices were paid for these oranges at first, that orange +growing boomed all over Southern California. People thought their +fortunes were made when they set out a few acres of small budded trees +they had paid a dollar or more apiece for. Whole towns sprang up in +dry treeless valleys where only cattle and sheep had pastured, +and land worth only twenty-five dollars an acre before the orange +excitement, sold quickly for eight hundred and a thousand when planted +with trees. The towns of Pomona, Redlands, Monrovia, and others in +the orange localities were unknown before 1885, and grew to several +thousand population in a few years. Everybody talked of the great +profit in orange growing, and people who had nurseries of young trees +grown from navel buds made fortunes. + +At this day thousands of acres of seedless oranges are in full bearing +and no one buys the old kinds. Hundreds of car-loads of the seedlings +are not even picked, and ninety per cent of the eighteen thousand +car-loads which make the season's orange crop are navel oranges. Over +forty-five millions of dollars are now invested in the growing and +marketing of this remarkable fruit. + +At Riverside, the home of the orange, the two original Washington +navel trees still stand. Mr. Tibbets guarded them for years, had them +fenced with high latticework, and seldom allowed any one to touch +them. He refused ten thousand dollars for them, since for months he +sold hundreds of dollars' worth of buds from these parent trees. These +two trees and their large family have caused thousands of people to +come to the state, and have built up Southern California wonderfully. + + + + +THE LEMON + + +For many years people who use that sour but necessary fruit, the +lemon, thought that only the little yellow ones which came from the +far-away island of Sicily were good. The men who import foreign fruits +always said so; and in spite of the fact that the larger California +lemon was more acid, of as good flavor, smooth skinned, and golden, +people believed the Mediterranean groves produced the best. But, at +last, our warm, dry air, good soil, and plenty of water, together with +care and skill while growing and packing, have made California lemons +the most in demand. These lemons keep well, and bear shipping and long +journeys better than the imported fruit. + +Citrus fruits, as the orange and lemon are called, do well in all the +southern counties, and San Diego County boasts of not only the largest +lemon grove in California, but in the world. This is a thousand-acre +tract overlooking San Diego Bay and cultivated by the Chula Vista +colony. It was once a pasture given up to wandering bands of cattle +and sheep. There was little water, and no one ever thought these dry +mesa lands would one day be a beautiful garden spot, green with the +shining lemon leaves, and golden with fruit. + +A company was formed to develop this forty-two square miles of land, +and to get water for irrigation, since all the trees must have little +streams of water round their thirsty roots three or four times during +the dry summer. A great dam was constructed on the Sweetwater River, +near Chula Vista, and a reservoir built. Water was piped from this to +the lemon groves, which are about a hundred feet below the reservoir, +and from May to September the trees are irrigated. This is done by +ploughing furrows on each side of a row of trees and turning small +rills of water slowly down them till the ground is soaked around the +tree roots. No one thought the great reservoir would ever be empty, +but two winters with but little rain made it necessary to put down +many wells in the dry bed of the Sweetwater River, and from these a +strong steady flow of millions of gallons is pumped into the water +pipes. So this great lemon orchard is always sure of water enough, +returning the gift later in generous golden measure. + +One may pick lemon blossoms, ripe and green fruit every month in the +year from the same tree, but most of the crop ripens from November to +June. + +Lemons are carefully cut from the tree, and usually picked by size, a +ring being slipped over them, without regard to their ripeness. They +grow so thick on the tree that a man can pick more than twenty boxes +a day. In preparing it for market the fruit "sweats," as it is called, +in airy boxes, for a month in winter and ten days in summer, and +ripens and colors during this process. Then each lemon is wiped +dry and clean, wrapped separately in tissue-paper, and packed for +shipment. The cost of a box of lemons from the tree to the railroad is +about thirty-five cents. + +Thousands of car-loads are shipped to the Eastern and Middle states, +while the Pacific Coast is a never-failing market. + +Small, imperfect, and bruised fruit goes to the citric acid factory +near the packing-houses. From these oil of lemon, lemon sugar, and +clear green citric-acid crystals are made, and the crushed waste is +returned to the grove and ploughed in about the trees as a fertilizer. + + + + +FLOWERS AND PLANTS + + +"When California was wild," says John Muir, "it was one sweet +bee-garden throughout its entire length, and from the snowy Sierra to +the ocean." + +There were so many yellow poppies in this great unfenced garden, that +the Spanish sailing along the coast called it the "Land of Fire" from +the golden flowers covering the hills. Near Pasadena, in Southern +California, these poppy fields may still be seen glowing so brightly +in the sun that you do not wonder at the name "Cape Las Flores," or +Flower Cape, which the sailors also gave to this part of the country. + +[Illustration: IN A MISSION GARDEN.] + +[Illustration: A CHRISTMAS GARDEN.] + +The poppy is our best-known wild flower, planted by Mother Nature +before white men ever visited these shores. When the Spanish +settled here they called the poppy _copa de oro_, or cup of gold. +The gold hunters spoke of it as the California gold flower, and sent +the pressed poppies home in their letters. But its correct name is +the Eschscholtzia (esh-sholt'si-a), from the name of a German +botanist and naturalist, who studied the plant and wrote about it +almost a hundred years ago. + +From February to May the poppies are most plentiful, but a few may be +found almost every month in the year. Have you noticed the finely cut +green leaves, and the pointed green nightcap that covers each bud till +the morning sunshine coaxes off the cap and unfolds the four satiny +golden petals? The flowers love the sun and close up on dark, cloudy +days, or if brought into the house. But put them in a sunny window the +next morning, and you may watch the cups of gold open to the light. + +Some of the poppies are a deep orange-color, while others are a pale +yellow. And as you walk through the fields you may pick a hundred at +each step, so thick do the plants grow. The wild bees find a yellow +dust called pollen or "bee-bread" in the poppy, the same golden powder +that rubs off on your nose, when you put it too close to this cup of +gold or to lilies. + +Then in this "unfenced garden" were also the baby blue-eyes, whose +pretty pale-blue blossoms come early in the spring, each one with a +drop of honey at the foot of its honey path, as the black lines on its +petals are called. + +Can you name twenty kinds of wild flowers? Around San Francisco and +the bay counties you will count, after the poppy and baby blue-eyes, +the shining yellow buttercup, the blue and yellow lupines that grow in +the sand, the tall thistle whose sharp, prickly leaves and thorny +red blossoms spell "Let-me-alone," the blue flag-lilies and red +paint-brush, yellow cream-cups, and wild mustard, and an orange +pentstemon. These with many yellow compositae or flowers like the +dandelion, you will find growing on the windy hills and dry, sunny +places. Hiding away in quiet corners are the blue-eyed grass, and +a wild purple hyacinth, the scarlet columbine swinging its golden +tassels, shy blue larkspur, a small yellow sunflower, and wild pink +roses. Among the ferns in shady, wet nooks are white trilliums and a +delicate pink bleeding-heart, while the wild blue violets and yellow +pansies love the warm, rocky hillside. + +Mariposas, or butterfly tulips of many colors, grow in the foot-hills +and mountains. Perhaps our most beautiful wild flowers are the lilies, +of which we have over a dozen kinds. In the redwood forests there is a +tall, lovely pink lily, and many brown-spotted yellow tiger-lilies. Up +in the mountain pines a snowy white Washington lily sometimes covers +a mountain side with its tall stems bearing dozens of sweet waxen +blossoms. In the wet, swampy places bright red, and many small orange +lilies bloom in late summer. + +In the high Sierras are found strange and pretty blossoms unlike +the flowers of valleys and sea-coast. There you will see the +mountain-heather with pink, purple, or dainty white bells, the +goldenrod, and gentians blue as the sky. Strangest of all is the +snow-plant. This curious thing sends up a thick, fleshy spike a foot +or so in height and set closely with bright scarlet flowers. It grows +where the snow has just melted round the fir trees, and leaf, stem, +and blossom are all the same glowing red. + +Most of the valley and coast wild-flowers bloom and ripen their seeds +before the dry summer begins. Such plants die and wither away in the +heat, but their seeds are safe on the warm ground till fall rains soak +the earth and set them growing again. In the high mountains a thick +blanket of snow covers the sleeping seeds till May or June, and then +sunshine wakes them once more. + +[Illustration: "WAWONA" (28 feet in diameter).] + +[Illustration: THE GRIZZLY GIANT (33 feet in diameter).] + +No doubt you have seen many of our shrubs or tall bush-plants in your +vacations. Do you remember the sweet creamy white azaleas and the +buckeyes that grow along the creeks in the redwoods? And the feathery +blue blossoms of the wild lilac crowding in close thickets up +the hillsides? One of our shrubs is a holiday visitor, the +Christmas-berry, whose bright-red clusters trim your house at that +gay, happy season. The manzanita is another pretty bush, with pink +bells that ripen to small scarlet apples in the fall. + +Usually, these and other shrubs cover the hillsides with a thick, +matted tangle of stems and branches almost impossible to get through. +This chaparral, as the Spanish called it, clothes the foot-hills and +mountain sides with a close growth through which deer and bears alone +can travel and make trails or runways. Great stretches of buckthorn in +the north, and of sage-brush in the south, cover the wild lands, while +in the sandy desert tall, prickly cactus, yucca, and mesquite grow +with the sage-brush in the blazing sun. + +Only a few of California's wild plants and flowers have been now +called to your notice. But children have sharp eyes, and you will +find many more to inquire about in your vacation days. Then +the blackberries and thimble-berries will be ripe, and the pink +salmon-berry in the redwoods. Perhaps you will look for and dig up the +soaproot, that onion-like bulb of one of the lily family with which +the Indians make a soapy lather to wash their clothes. Let us hope +you will know and keep away from the "poison-oak," the low bush with +pretty red leaves, for its leaves are apt to make your skin swell up +and blister wherever they touch you. + +What a long and pleasant story might be told you of our state's real +gardens! Perhaps your teacher will give you an hour to talk about your +home gardens, and to see how much you can tell about them. You may +have flowers the year round, if you live on the coast, or in the warm +valleys where no Jack Frost comes with his icy breath to kill the +tender plants. In such genial climates roses and geraniums bloom all +year, and only rest when the gardener cuts them back; and most of the +shrubs and trees in parks and gardens are always fresh and green. + +Florists who raise flowers to sell find that here they can grow the +choicest and finest carnations, roses, and all the garden blossoms you +know so well. Many of these florists deal only in flower-seeds, and +bulbs or roots of the lilies to send to the Eastern states or abroad, +where people greatly prize California flowers. + +Plants and trees from all parts of the world thrive here, also. You +have seen the palms, the tall sword-palm with its great spike of snowy +bloom in the spring, the fan-palm whose dried and trimmed leaves +are really used for fans, and, perhaps, the date-palm. This tree +was planted round the Missions by the Padres, and some, more than +a hundred years old, are still standing at the San Gabriel Mission. +These, and the magnolia with its large creamy blossoms, as well as the +graceful pepper-tree, are natives of warm, southern lands, while the +eucalyptus, or gum-tree, was brought here from Australia. + +Look round, children, as you walk to and from school, or in the park, +and try to know and name the green things growing there, the flowers +and plants sent to make our world a pleasant place to live in. + + + + +THE BIG TREES AND LUMBERING + + +The largest trees in the world are those forest giants of California +which grow on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevadas, and nowhere +else on the globe. People carelessly call these grand trees "redwoods" +or "big trees," but their family name is Sequoia, an Indian chief's +name. When the trees were first discovered, in 1853, accounts of their +height and size were sent to England. Supposing this giant to be a new +tree, it was there christened _Wellingtonia_, and also _gigantea_ +for its immense measurements. While Americans were trying to have it +called _Washingtonia_, a famous Frenchman who knew all about trees +decided that the specimen sent him was certainly a sequoia, as named +by a German professor some six years before this time. So the tree was +called _sequoia gigantea_ and quietly went on growing, unmindful of +the four nations who had quarrelled over its christening. Why, indeed, +should it bother its lofty head with the chatter of people whose +countries were unknown when this mighty tree was full grown? For +these sequoias are the oldest of living objects and have probably been +growing for four thousand years. How do we know this? Well, when a +fallen trunk is sawed across, one can see rings in the wood, and it is +thought that each ring is a year's growth. John Muir counted over four +thousand of these annual rings on the stump of one of the Kings River +trees. + +These fine old trees grow in groves, and of the nine or ten groves +the Calaveras and Mariposa are the best known. The Calaveras group of +nearly a hundred mighty trees was the first one discovered, and four +trees here are over three hundred feet high. The fallen "Father of +the Forest" must have been much higher, for it measures a hundred feet +round its trunk at the root end. A man can ride on horseback for two +hundred feet through its hollow trunk as it lies on the ground. Many +of the standing trees hollowed out by fires are large enough, used as +cabins, to live in. + +The Mariposa grove of Big Trees, being not far from Yosemite Valley, +is the best known, as thousands of tourists visit both places. There +is a big tree at Mariposa for every day in the year, and two very +wonderful ones, the Grizzly Giant and Wawona. Stage-coaches drive into +the grove through the tree Wawona, which was bored and burned out +so as to make an opening ten by twelve feet. A wall of wood ten feet +thick on each side of this opening supports the living tree. The great +Grizzly Giant towers a hundred feet without a branch, and twice that +height above the first immense branches that are six feet through. +This was, no doubt, an old tree when Columbus discovered America, yet +it is alive and green and still growing. + +The largest tree in the world is the General Sherman, in Sequoia +National Park, and it is thirty-five feet in diameter. This means that +the stump of the tree, if smoothed off, would make a floor on which +thirty people might dance, or your whole class be seated. You can +scarcely imagine what a mighty column such a tree is, with its rich +red-brown bark, fluted like a column, too, and with its crown of +feathery green branches and foliage. The bark is a foot or two thick. +The trees are evergreens, and conifers, or cone-bearers. Sequoia cones +are two or three inches long and full of small seeds. The Douglas +squirrel gets most of these seeds, but there are still seedlings and +saplings or young trees enough to keep the race alive in most of the +groves. + +These groves of wonderful and rare trees are protected as National +Parks in the Sequoia and Grant groves, and Mariposa belongs to the +state. It is against the law to cut the trees in those groves. Their +worst enemy is fire, and a troop of cavalry is sent every year to +guard them, and to keep out the sheep-herders, whose flocks would +destroy the underbrush and young trees. But, unfortunately, lumbermen +have put up mills near the Fresno and Kings River groups, and, wasting +more than they use, are destroying magnificent trees thousands of +years old in order to make shingles. When nature has taken such good +care of this rare and wonderful tree, the Sierra Giant, men should try +to preserve the groves unharmed in all their beauty. + +Another _sequoia_ grows in great forests along the Coast Range from +Santa Cruz to the northern state-line, and beyond into Oregon. This +is the _sequoia sempervirens_, the Latin name meaning always green. +Redwood is its common name, and the lumber for our frame or wooden +houses is cut from this tree. Millions of feet of this redwood lumber +are shipped from the northern counties of the state every year, up +to Alaska or down to Central and South America. It is also sent far +across the Pacific to the Hawaiian and Philippine islands and to China +and Australia. + +While the _sequoia gigantea_ delights in a clear sky and hot sunshine, +its brother, the _sempervirens_, prefers a cool sea-coast climate, +offering frequent baths of fog. There is also a difference in the size +of these trees; the redwood is often three hundred feet high, but +is less in girth than its relative in the Sierras. There is not much +underbrush and little sunshine in the cool, green redwood forests, +each tree rising tall and stately for a hundred feet without branches, +while the green tops seem almost to touch the sky as one looks up. +Through the woods one hears the blue jay scream and chatter, and the +tap, tap of the woodpecker as he drills holes in the bark to fill with +acorns for his winter store. + +When the lumberman looks at these beautiful forests, he sees only many +logs containing many thousand feet of lumber, which he must get out +the easiest and cheapest way. He only chooses the finest and largest +trunks, and there is great waste in cutting these. The men begin +to saw the tree some eight or ten feet from the ground, and soon it +trembles and falls with a mighty crash, often snapping off other trees +in its way to the ground. After all the selected trees have fallen, +fires are started to burn off the branches and underbrush so that the +men can work easier. This fire only chars the outside bark of the big, +green logs, but it kills all the young saplings, and leaves the once +beautiful forest a waste of blackened logs and gray ashes. When the +fire burns itself out, the logs are usually sawed with a cross-cut saw +into sixteen-foot lengths, since in that form they are easy to handle. +Then oxen or horses haul them out; or sometimes a wire cable is +fastened to them by iron "dogs," or stakes, and a little stationary +engine pulls them away to the siding at the railroad track. Here they +are rolled on flat-cars, fastened with a big iron chain around the +four or six logs on the car, and taken on the logging train to the +mill-pond. They lie soaking in the water until drawn up to the keen +saws of the sawmill that cut and slice the wood like cheese. The bark +and outside is carved off as you would cut the crust off bread, and +then sharp, circular saws cut boards and planks till the log is used +up, and the log-carriage lifts another to its place. As the shining +steel bites into the wood the noise almost deafens you and the mill +shakes with the thunder of log-carriage and feeders. Useless ends, +slabs, and refuse are burnt in the sawdust pit, where the fires never +go out. Very much of the tree is wasted and all the limbs. The redwood +tree has so much life and strength, however, that it sends up bright +green sprouts around the burnt stump, and standing trees charred +outside to the tops will have new branches the next season. In the +older forests tall young trees are often seen growing in a ring round +an empty spot, the long-dead stump having rotted away. + +[Illustration: BIG TREES AT FELTON, SANTA CRUZ CO.] + +Near Santa Cruz is a grove of large and beautiful redwoods, many +of the trees being over three hundred feet high and from forty +to sixty-five feet around the base of the trunk. The Giant is the +largest, and three other immense ones are named for Generals Grant, +Sherman, and Fremont. In 1846 General Fremont found this grove, and +camped, on a rainy winter night, in the hollow trunk of the tree +bearing his name. Here is also seen a group of eleven very tall trees +growing in a circle around an old stump. + +In the Sierras, both in the _sequoia_ groves and forests above the +Big-Tree region, are very large sugar-pines, red firs, and yellow-pine +trees, all of which make excellent lumber. Great forests of these +trees, with cedars almost as large as the redwoods, are in the +northern counties also. You may have seen sugar-pine cones which are +over a foot long, the largest of all found, while redwood cones are +the smallest. Another great tree is the Douglas spruce, the king of +spruce trees, growing in both Sierra Nevada and Coast ranges. + +The California laurel, or bay tree, with its beautiful, shining green +leaves, and the madrono, the slender, red-barked tree on the hillsides +you must have noticed in your trips to the country, as well as our +fine valley and mountain oaks. Try to learn the kinds of trees and +study their leaves, blossoms, and fruit, and you will find every one +a friend well worth knowing. Then you will wish to save them from fire +and the lumberman's axe, especially the rare and old _sequoias_. + + + + +OUR BIRDS + + +More than three hundred kinds of these dear feathered friends and +visitors live in California. Along the sea-shore, in the great valleys +and the mountain-forests and meadows, even in the dry, hot desert, the +birds, our shy and merry neighbors, are at home. In many parts of +the state they find sunshine and green trees the year round, and food +always at hand. Yet sparrows, robins, and woodpeckers will stay in the +snowed-in groves of the Sierras all winter, contentedly chirping or +singing in spite of the bitter cold. + +If you know these wanderers of wood and field, these birds of sea and +shore, and their interesting habits, you will wish to protect them +from stone or gun, and their nests from the egg collector. You will +listen to the lark and linnet, and be glad that the happy songster +trilling such sweet notes is free to fly where he wishes, and is +not pining in a cage. And you, little girl, will not encourage the +destruction of these pretty creatures by wearing a sea-gull or part of +some dead bird on your hat. + +To become better acquainted with birds, let us call them before us by +classes, beginning with our sea-birds and those round the bays and on +the coast. Some of these not only swim but dive in the salt waters, +and to this class of divers belong the grebe, loon, murre, and puffin. +They dive at the flash of a gun, and after what seems a long time, +come up far away from the spot the hunter aimed at. These birds +usually nest on bare, rocky cliffs near the ocean, or on islands like +the Farallones, and their large green eggs hatch out nestlings that +are ugly and awkward and helpless on land. But they ride the great +ocean-breakers, or dive into their clear depths easily and gracefully; +and as they live upon fish or small sea-creatures, the divers only +seek land to roost at night and to raise their young. + +Next come the gulls, who belong to a class known as "long-winged +swimmers." They have strong wings and fly great distances, and with +their webbed feet swim well, too. Most of the sea-gulls are white with +a gray coat on their backs, but they look snowy-white as they fly. You +may see them walking about the wharves, or perching on roofs and piles +watching for food, and seeming very tame as they pick up bits of bread +or the refuse floating in the water. They follow steamers for miles, +scarcely moving their wings as they float in the air; and if you throw +a cracker from the deck, some gull will make a swift swoop and snatch +it before the cracker reaches the water. + +Far out on the Pacific the albatross sails proudly on his broad wings, +and cares nothing for high winds or storms. He rests and sleeps on the +billows at night with his little companions, the stormy petrels. He is +the largest and strongest of our birds of flight, the very king of the +sea. The stormy petrels are not much larger than a swallow. Sailors +call them. "Mother Carey's chickens," and are sure a storm is +coming up when petrels follow the ship. The albatross, petrel, and +a gull-like bird called a shearwater belong to the "tube-nosed +swimmers," on account of their curious long beaks. + +Along the coast, and wading in the shallow waters around the bays, are +some strange birds known as pelicans and shags. They are good fishers, +and drive the darting, finny fellows before them as they wade in the +water till they can see and gobble them up. Most waders have under +their beaks a skin-pocket deep enough to hold a fish while carrying +it to their nestlings, or making ready to swallow it. All of these +sea-birds raise their young as far from the shore and from hunters +as possible. Great flocks of them roost on islands fifteen or twenty +miles out in the ocean, and fly into the bays every morning. + +Wild ducks, geese, the herons, mud-hens, sandpipers, and curlews are +marsh and shore birds that feed and wade in the shallow salt water, +and nest on the banks or, like the heron, in trees near the bay. The +heron is a frog-catcher, and he will stand very still on his long legs +and patiently wait till the frog, thinking him gone, swims near. Then +one dart of the long bill captures froggy, and the heron waits for +another. You know the red-head, green mallard, canvas-back, and small +teal ducks, no doubt, and have seen the flocks of wild geese flying +and calling in the sky, or standing like patches of snow as they feed +in the marshes or grain-fields. + +Down on the mud-flats at low tide you see birds called rails, and also +"kill-dee" plovers. The shoveller ducks are there, too fishing up with +broad, flat beaks little crabs and such creatures as are in the mud, +straining out mud and water, but swallowing the rest. All these birds +are "waders" and delight in mud and cold salt water. They are usually +quiet, or make only strange, shrill cries. + +In the sunny fields and woods we shall find many of the land-birds, +and first comes a family whose habits are so like those of chickens +that they are called "scratchers." These birds depend for food upon +seeds and bugs or worms they scratch out of the ground. Up in +the Sierra sugar-pines and fir-woods lives the largest of these +"scratchers," the brown grouse. He is a shy creature, rising out of +his feeding-ground with a great whirring of wings and out of sight +before the hunter can fire at him. His peculiar cry, or "drumming," as +it is called, sounds through the woods like tapping hard on a hollow +log. His equally shy neighbor is the mountain-quail, while through +the farming lands and all along the hillsides the valley--quail are +plenty. Perhaps you have seen a happy family of these speckled brown +birds. Papa quail has a black crest on his head, and he calls "Look +right here" from the wrong side of the road to fool you, while Mamma +and her little, cunning chicks scatter like flying brown leaves in the +brush. After the danger is past, you hear her low call to bring them +round her again. In the desert and sage-brush part of the state the +sage-hen, another "scratcher," runs swiftly through the thickets, but +many are caught and brought in by the Indians. + +Our birds of prey are eagles, vultures, hawks, owls, and the +turkey-buzzards, those big black scavengers that hang in the air. In +circles high above woods and fields some of these birds of prey sweep +on broad wings, searching with keen sight for their food in some dead +animal far below. The California condor, a great black vulture-like +bird, is almost extinct, and is only found in the highest mountains. +It is very large of wing, and strong enough, it is said, to carry off +a sheep. Both golden and bald eagles nest in tall trees in the wildest +parts of the state. The chicken-hawk, whose swift sailing over the +poultry-yard calls out loud squawking from the frightened hens, +you have often seen, and the wise-looking brown owls, too. A small +burrowing owl lives in the squirrel holes, and you may catch him +easily in the daytime, when he cannot see. + +The road-runner is of the cuckoo family of birds. It seldom flies, but +runs swiftly along the roads, or in the desert, and is said to kill +rattlesnakes by placing a ring of thorny cactus leaves around the +snake as it lies asleep. The rattler is then pecked to death, since it +cannot get out of its prickly cage. This fowl is like a slender brown +hen in size. + +In the redwoods you hear the tap, tap, of the "carpenter" woodpecker, +with his black coat and gay red cap. He drills holes in the bark of a +tree with his strong beak and then fits an acorn neatly into each safe +little storehouse. It is thought that worms and grubs fatten while +living in these acorns, so that the woodpecker always has a meal ready +in the winter when the ground is wet, or the squirrels have carried +off the acorns under the trees. + +Humming-birds, or "hummers," as the boys call them, are plenty in city +and country and so fearless that they will take a bath in the spray +of the garden-hose, or dart their long bills in the fuchsias almost +within your reach. The bill shields a double tongue, which gets not +only honey, but small insects from the flower or off the leaves. The +humming-bird's tiny nest is a soft, round basket, not much bigger than +half a walnut-shell, and holding two eggs, which are like small-white +beans. Bits of moss and gray cobwebs are woven in this nest till it +looks like the branch itself; and here the little mother in her plain +brown dress hatches out and feeds the baby "hummers." Her husband has +glistening ruby feathers at his throat and green spots on his head and +back that glow in the sun like jewels. + +The highest class of birds is the "perchers," and many friends of +yours belong to this. There are two families, however, of perchers, +those that call and the song-birds. Calling over and over their +peculiar note, the pewees, flycatchers, and king-birds, fly through +the forests. The crow and blue jay belong to the singers, you will +be surprised to hear. And what a crowd of these song-birds there +are trilling and warbling in the sunshine! Have you ever watched the +meadow-lark singing as he sits on guard on the fence, while the rest +of his brown-coated yellow-vested flock run along the field picking up +seeds and insects? + +Then there are the linnets, or "redheads," who sing their sweet, +merry tunes all summer, and if they do take a cherry or two the farmer +should not grumble. They destroy many bugs and caterpillars and eat +weed-seeds that might trouble the fruit-grower more than the missing +cherries. The yellow warbler, sometimes called the wild canary, flits +through bush and tree and trills its gay notes in town and country. +Song-sparrows, thrushes, and bluebirds warble far and near, while the +red-winged blackbird makes music in wet, swampy places. The robin, +who comes to city gardens in the winter, has a summer home in the +mountains or redwoods. There, too, the saucy jay screams and chatters, +and flashes his blue wings as he flies, scolding all the time. + +In Southern California, among the orange groves or in gardens, the +mocking-bird trills in sweet, liquid notes his wonderful song. He +mimics, too, many sounds he hears, and sometimes when caged will +whistle tunes or say words. The mocker can crow or cackle like the +chickens, or mew like the cat. Then he will whistle clear and loud +till dogs or boys answer his call. When they find themselves fooled, +it is said, he mimics a laugh. + +From April to July the birds are busy, nesting, feeding their +families, or teaching them to fly. Many eggs never hatch, and some +are destroyed by wild animals. Boys often rob a whole nest to have one +little blown egg in their collections. Then again the mother is killed +and her brood starves to death. When the parent birds are teaching the +nestlings to fly, cats also catch the little ones. So you see the poor +feathered things have many enemies. + +Let us try to protect the birds, and to let them live happy lives +in freedom. Each one will thank you, either with sweet songs or with +being a beautiful thing to see on land or ocean. + +[Illustration: YOUNG TOWHEE.] + +[Illustration: BABY YELLOW WARBLERS. From photographs by Elizabeth +Grinnell.] + + + + +OUR WILD ANIMALS + + +Once upon a time, when the Spanish owned this state and called it +their province of Alta California, there were great herds of antelope +feeding on the grassy plains, and at every little stream elk and deer +and big grizzly bears came down to drink. No fences had been built, +and the wild animals had never heard a rifle-shot. Free and fearless +they ranged valley and hillside, or made their dens in the thick +brush, or "chaparral," as the Spanish called it. + +Indian hunters watched the paths over which these wild creatures +travelled to water, and killed deer and antelope with their arrows. +But these hunters were afraid of grizzly bears, for an arrow in Mr. +Bear's thick hide only made him cross, and with one hug, or even a +light blow from his paw, he could cripple the poor Indian. So in those +early days the old bears came year after year, and carried off sheep +and cattle. The simple folks did not even try to kill them. Indeed, +many of the red men believed that very bad Indians were punished by +being turned into grizzly bears when they died, and they would not +hurt their brothers, they said. + +When Father Serra's Mission people were starving at Monterey, the +Padre learned that at a place called Bear Valley near by, there were +many grizzlies which the Indians would not kill. He sent Spanish +soldiers there, and they shot so many bears that the hungry Mission +family had meat enough to last till a ship came from Mexico with +supplies. + +Of all flesh-eating animals this grizzly bear is the largest and +strongest. He can knock down a bull with his great paws, or kill and +carry off a horse. He can live on wild berries and acorns with grass +and roots he digs out of the ground, yet fresh meat suits him best, +and he prefers a calf, which he holds as a cat does a mouse. + +Nothing but stock was raised in California in those days so long +ago, and cattle were counted by the thousands and sheep by tens of +thousands. Then the grizzly and cinnamon, or brown, bear feasted all +the time on stray calves and yearlings. Every spring and fall the +cattle, which had roamed almost wild in the pastures, were "rounded +up" by the cowboys, or vaqueros. After the work of picking out each +ranchero's stock and branding the young cattle was over, the vaqueros +thought it fine fun to lasso a bear,--some old fellow, perhaps, +who had been helping himself to the calves. It is told that one big +cinnamon bear, while quietly feeding on acorns, looked up to find +three or four cow-boys on their ponies in a circle around him. They +spurred the trembling ponies as close to him as they dared, and yelled +at the tops of their voices. The great brute sat up on his haunches +and faced them, growling and snarling. One vaquero sent his rope +flying through the air, and the loop settled over a big, hairy fore +paw. Then the bear dropped on all fours and made a jump at the pony, +which got out of his reach. Another Mexican threw a lasso and caught +the bear's hind foot; and as he sat up again a third noose dropped +over the other fore paw. Then the poor trapped creature, growling, +snarling, and rolling over and over, began a tug of war with the +lariats and the ponies. Once a rope broke, and horse and rider tumbled +in front of the bear. He made a quick, savage jump, but was pulled +back by the other ropes. Then Mr. Bear sat up straight and tugged so +hard that another lariat broke and sent the saddle and rider over the +pony's head. With one sweep of his paw the bear smashed the saddle, +but the cow-boy saved himself by running to an oak tree. At last Mr. +Bear was getting the best of the fight so plainly, and had pulled the +frightened ponies so near him, that the man who was thrown off ended +the poor animal's struggles with a rifle-ball. + +A Chinese sheep-herder tells this funny story about a bear: "Me lun +out, see what matta; me see sheep all bely much scared, bely much lun, +bely much jump. Big black bear jump over fence, come light for me. Me +so flighten me know nothin', then me scleam e-e-e-e so loud, and lun +at bear till bear get scared too and lun away." + +A few grizzlies are still found in the Sierras, and black and brown +bears are often seen with their playful little cubs. The small +fellows are easily tamed and may be taught many tricks. They will live +contentedly in a bear-pit, or even if chained up, and as most of you +know, they like peanuts and pop-corn well enough to beg for them. + +The panther, or mountain-lion, is another large flesh-eating animal +which makes his home in the thick woods conveniently neighboring the +farmers' corrals and pastures. Not long ago a boy in Marin County, +who was sent to look after some ponies, saw a big yellow dog, as he +thought, "worrying" one of the colts. When he came nearer he found +it was a wicked-looking, catlike creature, and knew it must be a +California lion. He had nothing with him but a heavy whip. The panther +left the wounded colt and crouched ready to spring at the boy, but he +was on the alert and struck it a terrible blow across the eyes with +his whip, and then another and another. Half-blinded and whining with +pain, the panther turned tail and ran away, while the boy's pony, +trembling and snorting with fright, galloped home with his brave +rider. + +In one of the mountain counties a woman, hearing her chickens +squawking one day at noon, ran out to find what seemed a big dog among +them with a hen in his mouth. She rushed straight at him with a broom, +when the animal turned. She found it was a great panther, who snarled +and made ready to spring at her. As she screamed and started to run +away, her foot slipped on a steep and muddy place, and she slid down +the little hill right into the panther's face. He was so frightened +that he jumped the fence and hurried to the woods. + +This great yellow cat is both savage and cowardly, and he has been +known to follow a man walking through the woods, all day, yet he +sneaked out of sight at every loud call the man gave. He chases deer +and gets many small and helpless fawns, hunters say. + +Fur-hunting was once a profitable business for the Indians, who were +clothed in bear and panther skins when the first white men came to +California, and had many furs to trade or sell. The Indians trapped +otters, beavers, and minks, and the squaws tanned the deer-hides to +make buckskin shirts or leggings. Hunters and trappers still bring in +these wild animals' furry coats after trips to the high mountains or +untravelled woods, where the shy creatures try to live and be safe +from their enemies. + +In early days herds of a very large deer, called elk, fed on the wild +oats and grass. These elk had wide, branching horns measuring three +or four feet from tip to tip. Only a few of them now survive in the +redwood forests in the northern counties. There were plenty of them +once where San Francisco now stands. Dana in his book called "Two +Years Before the Mast," tells us that when his ship dropped anchor off +the little village of Yerba Buena about sixty-seven years ago, he saw +hundreds of red deer and elk with their branching antlers. They were +running about on the hills, or standing still to look at the ship +until the noise frightened them off. At that time the whole country +was covered with thick trees and bushes where the wolf and coyote +prowled, and the grizzly bear's track was seen everywhere. + +[Illustration: CALIFORNIA RED DEER. From a photograph by George V. +Robinson.] + +There are plenty of deer in the redwoods now, and in the high +Sierras are black-tailed and large mule-deer. In the woods round Mount +Tamalpais timid red deer live, too. In winter, when it is cold and +snowy in the northern counties of our state, these deer often come +into the farmer's barnyard to nibble at the hay. + +There are still left in the mountains among the pines and snowy cliffs +many mountain-sheep. These curious big-horned animals resemble both +the elk and the sheep, and it is said they can jump from a high rock +and land far below on their feet or heavy, twisted horns without being +hurt in the least. + +Of all the great herds of graceful, fast-running antelope, once the +most plentiful of our wild animals, only a very few can now be found +on the eastern slopes of the Sierras. + +But Master Coyote, who might well be spared, so cruel and cowardly is +he, still sneaks up and down the whole state, and his quick sharp bark +gives notice that the rascal is ready to steal a chicken or a lamb if +it is not protected. With his bushy tail and large head he is half fox +and half wolf in appearance, and mean enough in habits to be both. He +can outrun a dog and even a deer, and though he catches jack-rabbits +and the Molly Cottontail usually for food, he would help his brother, +the wolf, to kill a poor harmless sheep. + +This gray wolf is a savage creature and hides in the thick forests by +day, slinking out at night to the nearest sheep corral or turkey-pen +if he can find one unwatched by some faithful dog. His friend and +neighbor, the fox, likes fat geese and chickens as well as birds, +squirrels, and wood-rats. The queer raccoon lives in the redwoods and +is often caught and kept in a cage or chained for a pet. + +Wildcats, both gray and yellow, are found in the thickly timbered +parts of California, and the badger makes his home in the mountain +canons or pine woods. There, too, the curious porcupine dwells. He is +covered with grayish white quills, which bristle out when he is angry +or frightened. No old dog will touch this animal, for he knows better +than to get a mouthful of sharp toothpicks by biting Mr. Porcupine, +who is like a round pincushion with the pins pointing out. A dog who +has never seen this prickly ball will dab at it, and have a sore paw +to nurse for weeks after. + +Two or three kinds of tree-squirrels live in the pines and redwoods, +the Douglas squirrel being well known in the mountains. The ground +squirrel, or chipmunk, digs holes in the ground, where he hides his +winter's store of grain and nuts. + +Three of our smaller wild animals are very common and very troublesome +to the farmer. The skunk, which looks like a pretty black and white +kitten with a bushy tail, and also the weasel, destroy all the +chickens and eggs they can reach, and they are so cunning that it is +hard to keep them out of the hen-house. That little pest, the gopher, +we are all well acquainted with, since he gnaws the pinks and roses +off at their roots in your city garden while his large family of +brothers and sisters kill the farmer's fruit-trees and vines. The +gopher digs long tunnels under ground, making storerooms here and +there in these passages, which he fills with grass, roots, and seeds. +In each cheek he has a pouch, or pocket, large enough to hold nearly a +handful of grain, so the little rascal carries his stores very easily. +The traps and poison by which the farmer is always trying to make way +with him, he is sly enough to let alone. His greatest foe is the +cat, which watches patiently at the hole where the destructive little +fellow is digging and usually catches him. A mother cat will sometimes +bring in two or three gophers a day to her kittens. + + + + +IN SALT WATER AND FRESH + + +Tom and Retta Ransom were two of the happiest children in the state, +I believe, when told that their summer vacation was to be spent at +Catalina Island. To see the wonderful fish that swim in those warm, +Southern waters, to watch them through the glass-bottomed boat, to +dip out funny sea-flowers with a net, or catch the pretty kingfish and +perhaps a "yellowtail,"--why, they could talk of nothing else! + +How they skipped and danced and chattered about the trip! At +last Mamma said, "Well, everything is packed and ready, and we go +to-morrow." Then what fun it was to stand on the steamer's deck and +sail "right out through the Golden Gate," as Retta said. The big +green billows of the Pacific Ocean caught the boat as she crossed the +outside bar and tossed salt spray almost into their faces. Little the +children cared for the drops of water, for they were so glad to be +off on their trip and to say good-by to San Francisco's summer fog and +cold winds for a time. + +And there on Seal Rocks, near the Cliff House, were the seals, or +rather sea-lions, clumsy creatures like black rubber sacks with +fins, or flippers, and a head. Some were lying in the sun and others +crawling up the steep, wet rocks. Those highest up were asleep and +quiet, but most of them kept barking or growling as they tried to find +a sunny place to bask in. Sometimes when frightened these sea-lions +will pitch headlong from high rocks into the ocean and dive out of +sight at once. Mrs. Ransom said she remembered seeing one that was +kept for years in a salt-water tank, and that, although they seem so +clumsy, this sea-lion jumped so quick that he caught a fish thrown to +him before it touched the water. Once fur-seals were in great numbers +off our coast, and lived on the rocks as these sea-lions now do. But +Indians, or later on white hunters, killed them, or drove them up +north where the crack of the rifle is not heard. + +On to the south the steamer sailed through the foaming waters, and as +Tom stood watching the white-capped waves go dancing by, he saw, two +or three times, a black fin come up, and then another. At last a man +said, "Look at the porpoises playing." Tom screamed with delight as +they jumped and chased each other till their black, shiny backs were +clear out of water. These fish are sometimes called sea-hogs and are +five or six feet long. Either to get their food of small fish, or in +play, they keep swimming and diving near the tops of the breakers. +Fishermen catch them with a strong hook and use the thick, leathery +skin for straps or strings, while they try oil out of their blubber or +fat. + +All that day and night the boat kept steadily on her way, and the next +morning they were in Santa Barbara Channel. It was so pleasant sailing +on this summer sea in the soft, warm sunshine that even the sea-sick +ladies felt better and came on deck. Mamma agreed with the children +that the steamer trip was much nicer than the hot, dusty cars. Just +then some one called, "See the whale," and looking quick Tom and Retta +saw what seemed a fountain of water rising high in the air about half +a mile away. Soon another went up, and two or three more, for the +gray hump-backed whales like this stretch of smooth bay. They are +warm-blooded animals and not fish at all, so they must come to the top +of the waves for air to breathe. The air and water spout out through +"blow-holes" on top of the whale's head, and rise like steam in the +colder air. The children's mother told them that the whale is the +largest of all animals, and that it lives on little jellyfish. It swims +with its great mouth wide open and catches all the tiny sea creatures +in its path. A fringe of whalebone hangs down from the roof of the +whale's mouth, and he strains the water out through this and swallows +the fish. As the boat went on, the children said, "There she blows," +as the sailors do when they see whales spouting in the distance. + +[Illustration: LEAPING TUNA.] + +[Illustration: BLACK SEA BASS.] + +Late that night the steamer got to San Pedro, and you may be sure Tom +and Retta were up early the next morning. As they came off the +boat, there was a crowd of people on the wharf who were pulling in +"yellow-tail" as fast as they dropped their lines. This fine fish is +a little like a big salmon, but with golden-yellow fins and tail. Its +body is greenish gray, with spots of the prettiest rainbow colors, +which grow brighter as the fish dies. These fish bite easily, but as +soon as caught begin to rush back and forth, fighting and trying to +snap the line. + +The children here took a smaller steamer for the twenty-mile trip +across to Catalina Island, and on the way over they saw a whole +"school" of whales and a flight of flying-fishes. Yes, really and +truly, these little fish fly or sail through the air, for their fins +balance them like a parachute. They skim along ten or twelve feet +above the waves, and then drop in the water to rest, taking another +flight whenever their enemies, the porpoises, chase them. + +How happy the children were to land at the little town of Avalon, and +to know that they were to have a month at this beautiful place! They +hurried down to the beach and their first choice of amusements was the +glass-bottomed boat. These boats have "water-telescopes," which are +only clear glass set in boxed-in places. The glass seems to make the +ripples still, so that you can look down, down to the bottom of the +ocean, twenty or thirty feet below you. + +The boatman rowed the children out in the bay, where the water, now +green, now blue, was always clear as crystal. On the rocks and sand +at the bottom starfish and crabs crawled slowly along or clung to some +stone. The purple sea-urchins, queer round-shelled creatures covered +with thorny spines, crowded together, and the ugly toad-fish hid +in the green and brown seaweeds. Blue, purple, and rainbow-colored +jellyfish floated on top of the waters, while gold perch with red +and green sunfish swam through the seaweed "like parrots in some hot +country's woods," Retta thought. In the shallow places on the rocks +those curious sea-flowers, the anemones, looked like pink or green +cactus blossoms. The children never tired of the water-telescope in +all their stay at the island. + +At night the warm ocean waters seemed on fire, since they are full +of very tiny, soft-bodied creatures, each of which gives out a faint, +glowing light. Every day the fishermen brought in new and strange +fishes. The black sea-bass, heavier than the fisherman himself and +longer than he was tall, were wonderful, and they could hardly believe +that such big fish were caught with a rod and line. + +But the leaping tuna pleased Tom the most, since he thought it such +fun to watch them jump into the air like silver arrows after the +flying-fish. Not so large as the black bass, the tunas are strong +enough to tow a boat along when running with a hook. One will drag a +heavy launch through the water as if a tug had hold of it, and +will fight for hours, rushing and plunging till tired out. Then the +fisherman pulls him up to the boat and ends his struggles. + +Tom and Retta were fond of watching the curious fish and sea-plants +in the glass aquarium tanks on shore also, but their happiest time was +when they gathered shells on the beach. They never found out the names +of more than those of the limpet, turban, and scallop, though they +picked up baskets full of tiny pink and white beauties, all frail and +of many kinds. These shells were once the homes of sea mollusks, +as such soft, fleshy creatures are called. But to Tom and Retta the +shells were only pretty playthings, to be doll's dishes, or cups, or +pincushions, perhaps. + +One morning some fishermen saw a shark, and no one dared to go in +bathing for a few days. This great, savage, "man-eater" shark does not +often come north of the Gulf of California. Sometimes small ones are +caught with a hook and line off Catalina Island, and Tom was always +glad to see such sea-tigers destroyed. + +Of course the children did not want to go home, till at last Mrs. +Ransom explained to them that in the ocean and bay near San Francisco +there were odd fish and strange animals too. And so it turned out, for +in a day's fishing over at Sausalito Tom caught many silver smelt and +tomcod, with flat, ugly flounders, and a red, big-eyed rock-cod. The +frightened boy almost fell out of the boat, too, when he pulled in a +large sting-ray, or "stingaree," as the boatman called it. This queer +three-sided fish, with a sharp, bony sting in its back, flopped round +till the man cut the hook out, knocked its head till it was no longer +able to bite, and threw it overboard. These rays have to be fenced out +of the oyster-beds along the bay, since they have big mouths full +of such strong teeth that they crush an oyster, shell and all, and +destroy every one they can reach. + +Oysters are grown in great quantities in the oyster-beds along the bay +shore. The largest size, which are called "transplanted," are brought +from the East as very small or baby oysters and dropped into shallow +water, where they cling to rocks or brush-piles till grown. + +Tom also caught a perch, and clinging to it as he drew in his line +was a large, hard-shelled, long-clawed crab. Tom put the crab in the +basket, knowing well what delicious white meat was in the fellow's +legs and back. + +Clams that burrow deep in the mud and may be found at low tide, +by digging where their tell-tale bubble of air arises, and the odd +shrimps, so good to eat, the children already knew about. Chinese +fishermen catch shrimps in nets, dry them on the hillsides, and send +both dry meat and shells to China. They dry the meat of the abalone +also, and use the beautiful shells, which you have no doubt seen, for +carving into curios, or making into jewellery. + +A salt-water creature very destructive to shipping and the wharves is +the teredo, or ship-worm. This brown inch-long worm lives in wood +that is always under water, such as the bottoms of ships and the round +piles you see at the wharves. He hollows or bores out winding tunnels +in the wood with the sharp edge of his shell until the piles crumble +to pieces. This small animal would finally destroy the largest wooden +ship if sheets of copper were not put on the sides and keel to protect +it. + +When Retta saw Tom's basket of fish she said, "Well, I think the +fresh-water fishes much prettier. I am sure the rainbow and Dolly +Varden trout with their bright-colored spots, which we saw up in the +Truckee River and the mountain lakes last summer, were better to look +at and to eat than these sea monsters." Tom laughed and said, "Oh, +that was because you helped to catch some of those. Do you remember +the big black-spotted trout we saw in Lake Tahoe? And the little +speckled fellows we caught in that clear creek in the redwoods, and +how we wrapped them in wet paper and cooked them at our camp-fire? +I wish we could go up to the McCloud River, though, and see the baby +trout in the fish hatchery there." + +So their mother told them that the tiny trout eggs were kept in +troughs with clear, cold water running over them till they hatched +out. Then the little things, not half as long as a pin, were placed in +large tin cans and sent to stock brooks and lakes, and in a year or so +they grew big enough to catch. + +The most valuable of our food-fishes is the salmon, a large +silvery-sided salt-water fish that takes fresh-water journeys too. +For they swim up the rivers every year to lay their eggs in the clear, +cold streams, knowing, perhaps, that the salmon-fry, as the young are +called, will have fewer enemies away from the ocean. The salmon go +over a hundred miles up to the McCloud River to spawn, and will jump +or leap up small falls or rapids in their way. Indians spear many of +them, but a number go back to the ocean again. Thousands and thousands +of ocean salmon are caught along the northern coast and taken to +the canneries. There the fish are put into cans and cooked, and when +sealed up are sent all over the world. California salmon is eaten from +Iceland to India, and its preparation and sale give employment to many +people. + +[Illustration: HUMPBACK WHALE (57 feet long).] + +[Illustration: TROUT FROM LAKE TAHOE.] + + + + +ABOUT CALIFORNIA'S INDIANS + + +When the Spanish and English first landed on this part of the New +World's coast, they found the Indians who dwelt inland almost naked, +and living like wild animals on roots and seeds and acorns. The tribes +along the seashore, however, were good hunters and fishermen, and +those Indians along the Santa Barbara Channel and the islands near +by were a tall, fine-looking people, and the most intelligent of the +race. They had large houses and canoes, and clothed themselves in +sealskins. + +The Indians Drake saw near Point Reyes had fur coats, or cloaks, but +no other clothes. They brought him presents of shell money or wampum, +and of feather head-dresses and baskets. With their bows and arrows +they killed fish or deer or squirrels, and being very strong ran +swiftly after game. They seemed gentle and peaceable with the white +men and each other, and were sorry to have Drake sail away. + +In later years the Indians who lived here when the Mission Padres came +were stupid and brutish, because they knew nothing better. They were +lazy, dirty, and at first would not work. But the patient Padres +taught them to raise grain and fruit, to build their fine churches, +to weave cloth and blankets, and to tan leather for shoes, saddles, +or harness. But although the Indians learned to be good workmen, +they liked idleness, dancing, and feasting much better, and when the +Missions were given up the Indians soon went back to their former +habits. + +There were no distinct tribes among these Indians, and they had no +laws. Nor was there a king or chief over many natives. They lived +in small villages or rancherias, each having a name and ruled by a +captain. Each rancheria had its special place to hunt or fish, and had +to fight its own battles with the other families of Indians. + +The men did nothing but hunt and fish, or make bows, stone +arrow-heads, nets and traps for game. The women not only had to gather +grass seeds, acorns, and nuts or berries, but they had to do all the +field-work and carry the heavy burdens, usually with a baby strapped +in its basket above the load. In preparing food for cooking, these +mahalas, or squaws, put seed or acorns in a stone mortar and pounded +them to coarse meal or paste. Sometimes a grass-woven basket was +filled with water, and hot stones were thrown in till the water began +to boil. Then acorn or seed meal was put in and cooked into mush. This +meal, or that from wild oats, was also mixed into a dough and baked on +hot stones into bread. Game or fish was eaten raw, or broiled a little +on the coals of the camp-fire. + +The Indians got many deer, and one way of hunting them was to put the +head and hide of a deer over the hunter's head. The make-believe then +crept along in the high grass till near enough to the quietly feeding +animals to put an arrow through one or more. All the streams were +full of fish then, and salmon swarmed in rivers that ran to the ocean. +These salmon the Indians speared or shot with arrows. They also built +runways or fish-weirs and made them so that the fish would become +crowded into a narrow passage, and could easily be dipped out with +nets or baskets. + +When the Americans came here they called these Indians "Diggers," +because they lived on what they could dig or root out of the ground. +They were very fond of grasshoppers, and ate them either dried or +raw, or made into a soup with acorn or nut-meal. Fat grubworms and +the flesh of any animal found dead was a great treat. If a whale or +sea-lion was washed ashore on the beach, the Indians gathered round it +for a feast, and soon left only the bones. + +[Illustration: INDIAN WOMAN WITH PAPPOOSE.] + +[Illustration: INDIAN WOMAN WITH BASKETS.] + +But they had no idea of saving food, so they fattened when there was +plenty, and starved when dry years made the acorns or nuts scarce. +Having no salt, they did not try to dry or smoke the meat of deer or +other wild animals. Nor did they at first lay up nuts and seeds, as +even the squirrels or woodpeckers do, for winter use. But wandering +from place to place, they camped in the summer along the rivers, where +fish was plenty and the wild oats gave them grain. In the fall they +hunted pine-nuts and berries in the mountains, till snow drove them +down into the valleys. + +Each Indian town, or rancheria, had a name, and many of these names +are still in use. At the north lived the Klamaths, Siskiyous, Shastas, +and the savage Modocs, whose months of fighting in the lava beds +caused the death of General Canby and many soldiers. The Porno tribes +of Lake county, Yrekas, Hoopas, and Ukiahs, are well known at the +present day. Tehama, Colusa, Tuolumne, Yosemite, and other places +recall the Indians who gave each its name. The San Diego Indians are +still known as Dieguenos and live on a reserve, or lands set aside for +them. + +Almost all the natives had Indian money, called wampum, which they +made from abalone or clam-shells by cutting out round pieces like +buttons or small, hollow beads. Little shells were also used, and the +wampum was strung on grass or on deer sinews. The Pomos still make +thousands of pieces of this money, and so many strings of it will buy +whatever the buck, or Indian man, and his mahala, or squaw, wish to +get. + +General Bidwell, who came to California in 1841 and surveyed the land +for many ranches, says of the Indians at that time:-- + +"They were almost as wild as deer, and wore no clothes at all except +the women, who had tule aprons fastened to a belt round their waists. +In the rough work of surveying among brush and briars I gave the men +shoes, pantaloons, and shirts, which they would take off when work +was done, carry home in their hands, and put on in time to go to work +again. But they soon learned to sleep in their new things to save +trouble, and would wear them day and night till a suit dropped to +pieces. They were quick to do as the whites did, and when paid in +calico and cloth Saturday night, by Monday they had on their new +skirts or shirts all made up like ours. Yet every Indian would choose +beads for his wages, and go almost naked and hungry till the next +pay-day." + +General Bidwell treated the Indians honestly and kindly, and in return +they were his friends and helped him much to his advantage. In 1847 he +settled on the great Rancho Chico, and part of his land he gave to the +Mechoopdas, as the Indian rancheria there was called. They worked to +plant orchards and at all his farm-work, and he treated them so fairly +that old men are still living on this ranch who as boys helped the +general in his tree-planting and road-building. A whole village of +these Mechoopdas live on the Bidwell place owning their houses, while +Mrs. Bidwell is their best friend and helps them in sickness and +trouble. The men work in the hop fields and fruit orchards, and the +women make baskets. + +All the California Indians are basket-makers, and their work is so +well done and so beautiful that it is much prized. The Pomos of Lake +and Mendocino counties make especially fine baskets for every purpose. +Indeed, the Indian papoose, or baby, is cradled in a basket on his +mother's back; he drinks and eats from cup or bowl-shaped baskets, and +the whole family sleep under a great wicker tent basket thatched +with grass or tules. All Pomo baskets are woven on a frame of willow +shoots, and in and out through this the mahala draws tough grasses or +fine tree roots dyed in different colors, and after the pattern she +chooses. Sometimes she works into the baskets the quail's crest, small +red or yellow feathers from the woodpecker, green from the head of the +mallard duck, or beads. She also hangs wampum or bits of abalone shell +on the finest ones. The storage baskets are four or five feet high to +hold grain or acorns, and the baskets to fit the back and carry a +load are like half a cone in shape, with straps to hold the burden +in place. Their smaller berry baskets hold just a quart. Some are +water-tight and are used to cook mush in. Fish-traps and long narrow +basket-traps for quail are also made out of this willow-work. + +On the Bidwell ranch is an old Indian "temescal," or sweat-house. It +is an underground hut, or cave dug out of a hillside, with a hole in +the top for smoke to reach the air. The Indians used to build a big +fire in this cave and then lie round it till dripping with sweat. A +cold plunge into the creek near by finished the bath,--Turkish, we +call it. Nowadays the Indians use this place for a meeting-room and +for dances. + +The older Indians still dance and rig out in all their finery of +feathers and beads, though the young people are ashamed of their +tribal customs and wish to be like the white folks. Some of their +dances are named for a bird or animal, and the Indians must imitate by +their dress and cries the animal chosen. In the bear dance the dancer +crawls about the fire on all fours with a bear's skin about him. He +wears a chain of oak-balls round his neck, and as he shakes his head +these rattle like a bear's teeth snapping shut, while all the time he +growls savagely. The feather-dancer, with a skirt and cap of eagles' +feathers, will whirl on his toes like a top for hours, while the other +Indians sing and the master of the dance shakes a large rattle. + +The California Indians are slowly passing away, and though all over +the state there are still rancherias, the land that was once their +very own will soon know them no more. + + + + +THE STORY OF SAN FRANCISCO + + +The Mission and Presidio of San Francisco were founded in 1776 by +Father Palou, and two little settlements grew up around the fort and +at the church. The Presidio was built where it is now, and ships used +to anchor in the bay in front of it, though the whalers usually went +to Sausalito to get wood from the hills and to fill their water-casks +at a large spring. From early Mission times the Spanish name of Yerba +Buena was given to that part of San Francisco's peninsula between +Black Point and Rincon Point. Ship-captains and sailors soon found out +that the cove or bay east of Yerba Buena was the best and least windy +place to anchor their vessels, and later on hundreds of ships found +a safe harbor there. The name Yerba Buena, or good herb, was given +on account of a little creeping vine with sweet-smelling leaves which +covered the ground and is still found on the sand-dunes and Presidio +hills. + +For many years the small settlements made no progress, and the rest +of the peninsula was covered with thick woods, where the grizzly bear, +wolf, and coyote roamed, while deer were plenty at the Presidio. Then +in 1835 Governor Figueroa, the Mexican ruler of California, directed +that a new town should be started at Yerba Buena cove. The first +street, called the "foundation-street," was laid out from Pine and +Kearny streets, as they are called to-day, to North Beach. The first +house was built by Captain Richardson on what is now Dupont Street, +between Clay and Washington. The next year a trader named Jacob Leese +built a store. It was finished on the Fourth of July, and in honor of +the day he gave a feast and a fandango, or dance, at which the company +danced that night and all the next day. This was the first Fourth +celebrated in the place. + +Two or three years later a new survey laid out streets between +Broadway and California, Montgomery and Powell. A fresh-water lagoon, +or lake, was near the present corner of Montgomery and Sacramento, +and an Indian temescal, or sweat-house, beside it. The bay came up +to Montgomery Street then, with five feet of water at Sansome, and +mudflats to the east. During the gold excitement of '49, when hundreds +of ships dropped anchor in the bay, many sailors deserted to go to the +mines, and some of the old vessels were hauled in on these mud-flats +and made into storehouses. All that part of the city east of +Montgomery Street is filled or made ground, and when new buildings are +to be started wooden piles or cement piers must go down to get a firm +foundation. + +Until 1846 only about thirty families lived at Yerba Buena. Then a +shipload of Mormon emigrants arrived and pitched their tents in the +sand-hills. Samuel Brannan, their leader, printed the first newspaper, +_The California Star_, in '47. That year also the first alcalde, or +mayor, of the new town, Lieutenant Bartlett, appointed an engineer +named O'Farrell to lay out more streets. He surveyed Market Street and +mapped down blocks as far west on the sand-dunes as Taylor Street and +to Rincon Point or South Beach. He gave the names of such well-known +men as Kearny, Stockton, Larkin, Guerrero, and Geary to these streets. +Mission Street was the road to the Mission Dolores, and about this +time Bartlett ordered that the Presidio, the Mission, and Yerba Buena +should be one town and should be called San Francisco. + +Then came the gold fever, and nearly every one left town to go to the +mines. Many people sold all they had to get money to buy mining tools +and food enough to live on till they struck gold. Men started for the +mines, leaving their houses and stores alone with no one to care for +goods or furniture. + +But news of the finding of gold had reached other places, and soon +ships from the Atlantic coast, Mexico, and all over the world +began sailing into San Francisco Bay. In '49 the first steamer, the +_California_, arrived from New York, and soon five thousand people +were in San Francisco, where most of the supplies for the gold-fields +had to be bought. Many of the newcomers lived in canvas tents or +brush-covered shanties scattered about in the high sand-hills or in +the thick chaparral. Some houses were built of adobe bricks, and the +two-story frame Parker House was thought to be so fine that it rented +for fifteen thousand dollars a month. Some wooden houses were brought +out from the East in numbered pieces, like children's blocks, to be +put together here, and others thought to be fireproof were of iron +plates made in the East. + +The first public school was opened in '48 and in the same building +church services were held Sundays. The first post-office was in a +store at the corner of Washington and Montgomery streets in '49. By +1850 the city had five square miles of land that had been cut down +from sand-hills or filled in on the mud-flats. The houses along the +city-front were built on piles, and the tide ebbed and flowed under +them. Long wharves for the unloading of ships ran out into deep water. +At Jackson and Battery streets a ship was used for a storehouse, and +after the earth was filled in this stranded vessel was left standing +among the houses. On Clay and Sansome streets the old hulk _Niantic_ +had a hotel upon her decks, and the first city prison was in the hold +of the brig _Euphemia_. + +[Illustration: INDIAN BASKETS.] + +While most of the miners were steady, hard-working men, honest, and +very kind and generous to each other, some drank and gambled their +hard-earned gold-dust away with a get of men who were ready to do any +wrong thing for money. The gamblers and bad characters grew so +troublesome by '51 that the police could do little or nothing with +them. Every day some one was robbed, or murdered, and thieves often +set fire to houses that they might plunder. As the judges and police +could not control these criminals, nearly two hundred good citizens +formed a "vigilance committee." It was agreed that bad characters +should be told to leave town, and that robbers and murderers should +be punished by the committee. Not long after, the vigilance committee +hanged four men, and roughs and law-breakers left town for the mines. +Men soon learned to keep the laws and do right. + +Since almost all the houses in San Francisco were light frames of wood +covered with cloth or paper, and since there was no fire department, +there were six great fires, each of which nearly burnt up the town. +The only way to stop the flames was to pull down houses or to blow +them up with gunpowder. But almost before the ashes of one fire had +cooled, wooden, cloth and paper buildings would cover whole blocks, to +be burned again before long. The fifth great fire, in '51, destroyed a +thousand houses and ten million dollars' worth of property in a night. +One warehouse containing many barrels of vinegar was saved by covering +the roof with blankets dipped in the vinegar, as no water could be +had. The iron houses that had been thought fire-proof were of no use. +Men who stayed in them found too late that the iron doors swelled with +the heat and could not be opened, so that those within were smothered +to death. + +Then people began to guard against such fires by building new houses +of stone or of brick. The sixth great fire destroyed most of the +wooden buildings in the business part of the city. After that, +with two or three fire companies and engines and better houses, +people no longer dreaded the fire-bell. Water was piped into the city +from Mountain Lake, and there was plenty for all purposes. + +[Illustration: SEAL ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO.] + +[Illustration: THE NEW CLIFF HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO.] + +So the city grew larger, until in '53 there were fifty thousand people +of all races and countries who called San Francisco home. Chinese and +Japanese, the Mexican, African, Pacific Islander, Greek, or Turk, or +Malay elbowed crowds of Americans, English, French, and Germans. It +was said that any foreigner could find in the city those who spoke his +language, and that gold was a word all knew. + +The largest yield of gold from the mines was in '53, and the next +year was a poor year for the miners. They bought fewer goods in San +Francisco, and the storekeepers found business falling off. Too many +houses had been built, so rents went down and times were hard for +a year or two. In '55 there were many bank failures, and business +troubles of all kinds made the people restless, and roughs and +murderers carried a strong hand. Then the "law and order party," as +the vigilance committee was at that time called, began once more +the task of punishing those who robbed or killed. A list of criminal +offenders was made out, and such were sent away from the state. +One excellent result of the vigilance committee's labors was that a +"people's party," as it was called, chose the best men to govern the +city, and for years after peace and order were in San Francisco. + +In '54 the city was lighted with gas for the first time, at a cost of +fifteen dollars a thousand feet. In that year also the mint began to +coin money from gold-dust, making five, ten and twenty-dollar pieces. +Lone Mountain Cemetery was laid out about this time, and the old Yerba +Buena graveyard, where the City Hall now stands, was closed. + +San Francisco had, for some years, trouble about titles to property, +owing to false or defective land-grants given by the Mexicans. Men +tried to take possession of lots they had no real claim to by building +a shanty on the ground and squatting there, and the "squatter troubles" +between such land thieves and the rightful owners caused lawsuits and +shooting affairs. A land commission finally settled these disputes, +throwing out all the false claims and giving titles to the proper +persons. + +[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO JAPANESE TEA GARDEN, SAN FRANSISCO.] + +The little village of Yerba Buena has now grown to be the largest +city on the Pacific coast and one that is known the world over. It is +widely and justly celebrated as the centre of great manufacturing +and shipping interests, for its fine buildings, its climate, and its +beautiful surroundings. San Francisco Bay, the harbor the Franciscans +named for their patron saint, is noted for its picturesque scenery. +Golden Gate Park, with its thousand acres of trees and lawn and +flowers stretching out to the Pacific Ocean, the famous Cliff House, +and the Golden Gate, through which so many Argonauts sailed into +California, are the most attractive and best known places. + + + + +MEN CALIFORNIA REMEMBERS + + +Many pages of this book might be filled with California's roll of +honor,--with that long list of men whose names are remembered whenever +the state's history is recalled. + +Explorers, Mission-builders, Argonauts, and pioneers were the men who +helped to make California the fair state you know and live in. From +the first day of the Spanish discoveries on this shore of the Pacific +Ocean, we find brave and great men who gave their best efforts, and +sometimes their lives, for California. + +Let us head our brief list with Cortes, the name-giver, who dreamed +long years of the golden land he was never to see. Then Cabrillo, the +sea-king whom San Diego people honor every year because he found their +bay and first set foot on California's ground. Next comes the bold +Englishman, Sir Admiral Francis Drake, who intended that his queen, +Elizabeth, should have this Indian kingdom, as he believed it to +be. The stone Prayer-book Cross, in Golden Gate Park, was put up to +commemorate the service of prayer and psalms, offered at Drake's Bay +by Fletcher, the minister on the Admiral's ship. + +Good Father Serra, the founder of the Missions, his friend +and brother-priest Father Palou of San Francisco, and their +fellow-laborers Crespi and Lasuen, helped in the work of building +churches and teaching the Indians. Governor Portola, the first Spanish +ruler of Alta California, assisted the Padres, and also found San +Francisco Bay. Lieutenant Ayala, however, sailed the first ship, the +_San Carlos_, through the Golden Gate. Another governor, de Neve, +founded San Jose and Los Angeles, and wrote a set of laws for the two +Californias of his time. That wise ruler, Governor Borica, ordered +schools opened and tried to get the Indians to farm their lands and to +raise hemp and flax. + +Many of the old Spanish settlers and explorers have left us their +names, though they are themselves forgotten, as Martinez, Amador, +Castro, Bodega, and countless others plainly show. The Englishmen +Livermore, Gilroy and Mark West, those early settlers, Temple and Rice +at Los Angeles, Yount and Pope of Napa Valley, Don Timoteo Murphy of +San Rafael, and Lassen the Dane, for whom Lassen's Peak was named, +were among those who came here before 1830. + +Governor Figueroa, called the "benefactor of Alta California" ordered +the Missions to be given up to the Indians. By directing that the +town of Yerba Buena should be laid out, he also is remembered as the +founder of San Francisco. Richardson, who carried out the governor's +orders, was the first settler and Leese built the first frame-house of +San Francisco. + +In Governor Alvarado's time many Americans came to the new country, +although Alvarado and General Vallejo tried hard to keep them out. +Vallejo was then the military commander, and had headquarters at +Sonoma, where he had an adobe fort and a few soldiers to protect the +Mission of Solano. Here General Vallejo was living with his Indian and +Californian settlers when the place was taken by Ide, the leader +of the "bear-flag party." Vallejo, set free when the short-lived +"bear-flag republic" went to pieces, lived many years at Sonoma. He +was afterwards a member of the first legislature. He tried hard in +1851 to have the state capital at Vallejo; but he failed, for he did +not keep his agreement to put up buildings for government use. + +A man well known in the early days was John Sutter, a Swiss, who built +a fort and settled where Sacramento now stands. He called his colony +New Helvetia, and soon had about three hundred Indians at work for +him. Some of the men were carpenters, blacksmiths, and farmers, while +the women wove blankets or a coarse cloth. His fort enclosed about an +acre of ground, with an adobe wall twenty feet high. A large gate was +shut every night to keep safe those inside this walled fort. You have +read that Marshall, who found gold, was building a sawmill for Sutter +when he picked up the precious yellow nuggets. Sutter and Marshall +quarrelled at last about the ownership of the mill at Coloma, where +the pieces of gold were picked up. Marshall died a poor man, unhappy +and neglected by the state, which has since put a costly bronze statue +over his grave. + +Sutter was very active in the Micheltorena war, when Governor +Micheltorena was defeated and put out of office by Alvarado and +Castro. + +The last of the Mexican governors, Pio Pico, tried his best to +prevent the rush of Americans into his country, but though Castro, +the military commander, helped him, the Americans came and stayed. And +both Pico and Castro with their soldiers were driven out of California +at last by Fremont and Stockton. + +General Fremont, the "path-finder," who could easily find the best way +through a wilderness and could make maps or roads for others to +follow him, is a striking figure in California history. He made three +exploring trips to this coast, Kit Carson, the famous hunter and +trapper, being his guide and scout. From the Oregon line to San Diego, +Fremont knew the country. He was a brave Indian fighter and helped to +capture California from Mexico. Fremont was appointed governor of the +new territory by Stockton, and was the first senator from California +representing the state in Congress. In 1848 Fremont sent a map of the +country to Congress, and on it named the strait at the entrance to +San Francisco Bay the Golden Gate. He was, therefore, the first to use +this beautiful name now known the world over. His wife, Jessie Benton +Fremont, is still living in Los Angeles. + +Commodore Sloat, who raised the American flag at Monterey, and +Commodore Stockton were United States naval officers who helped to +conquer the Mexican and Indian forces with the aid of Fremont and +General Kearny. These four men won the land of gold for the Union. + +General John Bidwell, another "path-finder," who in 1841 led the first +party of white men over the Sierras, lived to be over eighty years of +age. He saw the state, once a wilderness where naked Digger Indians +chased elk and antelope, grow to a pleasant land of orchards and +vineyards, of great cities full of people. General Bidwell was for a +time in Sutter's employ, and surveyed nearly all the large ranches +and the roads in early days. All his life he planted trees and built +roads, and at his great Rancho Chico is one of the largest orchards in +the state. Part of his life-work was to help a tribe of savage Indians +to be good American citizens, and as one of the fathers of California +he should always be remembered. + +Many notable names appear in the days when the finding of gold brought +this shore of the Pacific Ocean before the eyes of the world. Among +these are Gwin, who was chosen senator with Fremont; Larkin, widely +known as the first and last American Consul to California and for his +accounts of the gold discovery; and Halleck, first secretary of the +state and afterward General Halleck. + +The streets of San Francisco honor some of the citizens of 1848 and +1849: Geary, the first postmaster; Leavenworth and Hyde, the first +alcaldes or mayors; Van Ness, Broderick, Turk, and McAllister, +recalling prominent men of those days. Spanish families like Sanchez, +Castro, Noe, Bernal, and Guerrero had also a place on the city map. +Indeed, every town has some native Californian names in and around it. + +Don Victor Castro, said to be the first white child born in San +Francisco, died lately at San Pablo in the house he had built sixty +years ago. He was called the last of the Spanish grandees, those dons +who, before the Gringos came, had estates that stretched miles away +on every hand, and thousands of cattle with many Indian servants. Don +Victor built and ran the first ferry across San Francisco Bay. + +Sacramento was laid out as a town for Sutter by three lieutenants of +the U.S. army: Warner, who was afterwards killed by Indians; Ord, +who was a general in the Civil War, while the third, in after years +"marched through Georgia" as General Sherman. Marysville was also laid +out by Sutter, and Stockton by Weber, who owned all the land around +it. + +In 1849 Doctor Gregg and his party found Humboldt Bay. In 1851 +Yosemite Valley was discovered by Major Savage and a company of +soldiers, who were out hunting hostile Indians. This band of Indians +was called the Yosemites, and their old chief's name was Tenaya, for +whom the beautiful lake is named. + +Those who came to California before 1850 were called pioneers, and +many of them built up great fortunes. Among them were Coleman, the +president of the vigilance committee, Sharon, Flood, Fair, O'Brien, +Tevis, Phelan, and James Lick. Lick was a remarkable man, who gave +away an immense fortune; building the Lick Observatory, a school of +mechanical arts, free public baths, an old ladies' home, and giving +a million to the Academy of Science and the Society of California +Pioneers. + +In later days the names crowd thickly upon each other. Among editors +and literary men the fearless and ill-fated James King of the _Evening +Bulletin_, J. Ross Browne, the reporter of the first convention and a +most interesting writer, Derby the humorist, "Caxton" or W.H. Rhodes, +Mark Twain, Bret Harte, the historians Hittell and Bancroft, and the +poet Joaquin Miller may be noted. + +The governors of the state have been men remarkable as brilliant +speakers or lawyers and as wise rulers. In 1875, during the time of +Pacheco, the first native-born governor, the order of "Native Sons of +the Golden West" was formed, which now numbers over ten thousand young +California men. The "Native Daughters," a sister society, follows also +the idea of keeping the love of California warm in the hearts of her +children. + +[Illustration: FALLEN LEAF LAKE.] + +[Illustration: MOUNT SHASTA FROM STRAWBERRY VALLEY.] + + + + +OUR GLORIOUS CLIMATE + + +Not only a glorious but in many ways a wonderful climate is enjoyed +by the people of California's sea-coast and mountains, her valleys and +foot-hills. In no other state can one find so many kinds of weather +in such short distances. For instance, in Southern California you may +pick flowers and oranges in almost tropical gardens, and in an hour +find winter and throw snowballs on the high mountains overlooking the +roses and orange groves you so lately left. + +Only in the mountains, along that granite backbone of the state known +as the Sierra Nevadas, are there four seasons, the spring, summer, +autumn, and winter common to most of the United States. So the Sierras +have a distinct climate of their own. The Sacramento and San Joaquin +river valleys have another climate peculiar to themselves, while south +of latitude 35 degrees the coast has less rain and is warmer than the +coast counties north of that line. + +In the greater part of the state the year is divided into a dry summer +and a wet winter. The rains begin in October, and the first showers +fall on dry, brown hills and dusty fields baked hard by steady +sunshine since May. After these showers the grass springs up, and +the fields are green almost as quickly as if some fairy godmother had +waved her wand. An army of wild flowers, whose seeds were hidden in +the brown earth, wakes when the rain-drops patter, and the plants get +ready to bloom in a month or so. For this season, from November to +February, with little frost and no ice nor snow, is winter in name +only. Roses and violets bloom in the gardens and yellow poppies on the +hills. + +People expect and hope for much rain in this so-called winter, since a +wet year assures good crops to the state. But the amount of rain that +falls is very uncertain. It does not rain every day, nor all day, as a +rule, and each storm seems different. Sometimes a "southeaster" blows +up from the Japan Current, or Black Stream, as the Japanese call the +warm, dark-blue waters that pour out of the China Sea. This current of +the Pacific Ocean flows along our coast in a mighty river a thousand +miles wide, and gives California its peculiar climate of cool summers +and moist, warm winters. The southeasterly wind ruffles the bay with +white-capped waves and dashes sheets of rain against window and roof. +Then the wind changes, and all the clouds go flying to north or east, +while from the clear blue sky brilliant sunshine pours down to make +the grass and flowers grow. During the winter months the sun is strong +and warm enough to make out-door life delightful. + +The farmer depends greatly upon the rainfall. In a wet winter the +moisture sinks far into the ground, but not so deep that the thirsty +little roots cannot find it in the summer. Early rains are needed to +soften the ground for November ploughing, and young grain and crops of +all kinds need rain through April. In the northern part of the state +the wet season begins earlier and lasts longer than in the south, +while the southeastern corner is an almost rainless desert. + +In San Francisco the thermometer seldom falls below 45º in the winter, +the average for the season being 51º. Perhaps in January or February +the sidewalks may be white with frost in the mornings, or hail may +fall during some cold rain-storm. Once in five years or so, enough +snow falls to make children go wild with delight over a few snowballs +which are very soon melted. People can be comfortable the year round +without fires, and the clear, bright winter days with soft air and +warm sunshine are always pleasant enough to spend outdoors. This +ocean climate, due to the warm sea air, is enjoyed by the counties +facing the coast and San Francisco Bay. In the valleys of the interior +white frosts are frequent, and thin ice forms on the wayside puddles. +Once in a while killing frosts destroy fruit blossoms and cut down the +garden flowers and vegetables, but seldom do more damage. + +[Illustration: "EL CAPITAN" (3300 feet in height).] + +[Illustration: YOSEMITE FALLS.] + +In mountain regions, above five or six thousand feet, the very cold +winter lasts six or seven months. Snow falls almost constantly and +drifts to a great depth. Small lakes are frozen and buried in snow, +and the trees are bent and weighed down with ice and sleet. Many of +the wild animals come down to the foot-hills below the snow-line to +spend the winter; but the bear curls himself up in his warm cave and +sleeps through the cold months. In this snowy zone of the Sierras, +about thirty miles wide, winter lasts from the first snowfall, about +the end of October, to the late spring of June. Then July and August +are months of glorious weather, with clear, dry air and a cloudless +sky. During the day the temperature of about 80 degrees melts much +snow, and the rivers carry it away in rushing torrents and falls of +icy water. In September the frost turns the leaves of all but the +evergreen trees beautiful colors of red and yellow. Indian summer +comes during September and October, when the days are sunny and warm, +and then the long winter sets in again. Peaks above eight thousand +feet are snow-clad on their crests and along their sides by deep +drifts the year round. + +Along the Pacific coast in summer cool sea-winds, called trade-winds, +blow in from the ocean, and 60 degrees is the average temperature. The +farther you go inland from the coast, the hotter it gets, and the heat +is very great in the interior of the state. In the San Joaquin and +Sacramento valleys it is often over 100 degrees in the shade, though +this dry heat is not hard to bear, and the nights are always cool +enough for one to sleep in comfort. + +Summer fogs are usual in the coast counties. The mornings are pleasant +and sunny till about eleven o'clock. At this time the sun's rays +grow stronger in the interior valleys, and the hot air rises while +trade-winds rush in from the cold ocean and fog settles down like a +thick, gray cloud over the bay and hills. July and August are cold and +foggy along the coastline, with strong west winds almost every day. In +September the winds die away, and sometimes a shower or two falls. + +The rainless desert, or southeastern corner of our state, is the +hottest region of all. Here the sun glares down till sand and rocks +seem heated by a fiery furnace. Every living creature gasps and pants +for breath in the scorching heat. There are no trees, but only cactus, +that queer, prickly, thorny plant, often fifteen or twenty feet +high in these wastes of sand, and low greasewood bushes. Under this +vegetation snakes, lizards, and horned toads bask all day and search +for food at night. If travellers wander from the road in crossing the +desert, they are easily lost, and sometimes they die or go mad in the +terrible heat. There are no springs, and water stations are a long way +apart, so that lost people usually die of thirst. As the heat of the +sun's rays quivers over the burning sands, a curious sight called +a mirage is often produced. A cool, glassy lake or flowing river +bordered with green trees seems pictured in the air, and the hot and +weary traveller can scarcely believe that only sand and rocks are +before him. + +Can you tell which season you like the best? You will find the one you +choose in some part of this favored state. It is always summer in the +south, and you may slide on the ice or throw snowballs all year in the +high Sierras. + + + + +SOME WONDERFUL SIGHTS + + +California is a wonderland where snowy mountains, mighty and ancient +forests, glaciers and geysers, lakes and waterfalls, foaming rivers +and the cliffs and rolling surf down her long sea-coast give new and +beautiful pictures at every place. + +Through the whole state stretches the granite backbone of the Sierra +Nevadas with its highest crest or ridge at the head-waters of the +Kings and Kern rivers near Fresno. Here Mount Whitney and a dozen +other great peaks of the High Sierras or California Alps lift their +heads over thirteen thousand feet in the air. Here are to be seen most +magnificent panoramas of lofty peaks, deep canons, towering domes, and +snow-clad summits. The finest forests, too, in the world grow on the +slopes of the Sierras, the immense pines and giant _sequoias_ of +the General Grant and other National Parks in this section being the +largest and oldest of all. Kings River Canon is a rugged gorge half a +mile deep with the river rushing through it in thundering rapids and +cascades. + +The well-known Yosemite Valley is the gorge of the Merced River and, +though only eight miles long and half a mile wide, holds the grandest +of all our mountain scenery. The mighty rock El Capitan, over three +thousand feet in height, stands at the entrance to the valley, and +across from it is Bridal Veil Fall, a snowy cascade so thin you can +see the face of the mountain through the falling waters. There are +many waterfalls, but the Yosemite is chief of them all. Here the river +takes a plunge of sixteen hundred feet, the water falling like snowy +rockets bursting into spray from that great height. + +Then, for six hundred feet more, the torrent leaps and foams through +a trench it has cut out of the solid rock to the cliff, from which it +takes a second plunge. This Lower Yosemite fall is four hundred feet +high, the rushing waters turning into clouds of spray, which the wind +tosses from side to side. At Nevada Fall the Merced River leaps six +hundred feet at a bound, strikes a mass of rocks halfway down, and +breaks into white foam upon which rainbows play when the sun shines +through the misty veil. + +Besides the grand Sentinel Rock, Eagle Peak, Clouds' Rest, and other +high mountains in the Yosemite Valley, many domes or round-topped +peaks like the heads of buried giants loom up, the most famous being +South Dome, Washington Column, Liberty Cap, and Mount Broderick. + +But no one can picture this wonderful valley with pen or brush or +camera and give its real charm. You must see it yourself to know and +understand the beauty of great mountains and falling waters, of Mirror +Lake with its fine reflections of the surrounding scenery, and of the +rushing torrent of the Merced River in its swift coursing through this +mighty canon of the Yosemite. Thousands of tourists and sightseers +visit the valley from May to October. Then snow begins to fall and +winter sets in, as it does everywhere in the high Sierras. Very deep +snow-drifts cover the ground, lakes and rivers freeze, and the great +falls are fringed with icicles, while a large ice cone forms at the +foot of the falling water. Many beautiful pictures may be found in +the valley in winter when Jack Frost is ruler of all the snow-clad, +ice-bound canon. + +Scattered throughout the Sierras are other valleys almost as fine +as the Yosemite. These are not often reached by the army of summer +sight-seers, but true mountaineers find them. One valley which has +fine scenery is the Grand Canon of the Tuolumne, the gorge being +twenty-five miles long, with walls so high and steep that once entered +one must go through to the end. The Tuolumne River rushes, with +terrible force and speed, in cascades and rapids down the granite +stairway which is the floor of this canon. The walls of the gorge +rise so high that the traveller only sees a tiny strip of blue sky far +above him, and the great pine trees on top of these cliff walls seem +only the length of one's finger. + +It is supposed that all these valleys have been formed by glaciers, +which during the ice age, thousands of years ago, filled the canons +and swept over the mountains. These masses of ice, moving very slowly, +ground and tore up the rocks under and around them till deep gorges +and steep, high cliffs were left in their tracks. Most of the glaciers +melted long ago, but on Mount Lyell, on Shasta, and a few of the +Sierra summits may still be found those ever-living ice-rivers, the +one on Mount Lyell being the source of the Tuolumne River. + +California is rich in lakes, especially in the mountains where the +melting snows gather in every hollow and form lakelets in chains or +groups, or in one large body of water like Tahoe, Donner, or Tenaya +lakes. + +One of the most beautiful lakes in the world is Lake Tahoe. It is six +thousand feet above sea-level, and the mountains around it rise four +thousand feet higher. On these peaks snow-drifts lie the year round +above the "snow-line," as a height over eight or nine thousand feet +is called. Nevada, treeless and barren, is on the eastern side of +Lake Tahoe, while the western or California side is green and thickly +wooded with beautiful pines. But the first thing one would notice, +perhaps, is the wonderful clearness of the lake water. As one stands +on the wharf the steamer _Tahoe_ seems to be hanging in the clear +green depths with her keel and twin propellers in plain sight. The +fish dart under her and all about as in some large aquarium. There a +big lake-trout shoots by like a silver streak of light, or here is a +school of hundreds of little fingerlings. Every stick or stone shows +on the bottom as one starts out on the steamer, and as one sails +along where the water is sixty or seventy feet deep. In the middle +the lake's depth is fifteen hundred feet and the water is a dark +indigo-blue. At the edge and along shallow places the color is bright +green, as at Emerald Bay, a beautiful inlet three miles long. Lake +Tahoe is twenty miles in length and about five wide, and its icy cold +waters are of crystal clearness and very pure. + +Fallen Leaf Lake is a smaller Tahoe, and Donner Lake, not far from +Truckee, and now the camping-place of many a summer visitor, is the +place where years ago the Donner overland party spent a terrible +winter in the Sierra snows. + +Clear Lake and the Blue Lakes in Lake County are delightful places +to visit, and in this county, too, are the geysers. Some wonderful +curiosities are seen here. You will find springs that spout up a +stream of hot water every few minutes, mineral springs from which +you can have a drink of soda water, and an acid spring that flows +lemonade. Alum, iron, or sulphur waters, either hot or cold, bubble +up out of the ground at every turn. At one spring you may boil an +egg. Other springs are used for steam baths and also hot mud-baths. In +Geyser Canon is the strange place every sight-seer hurries to at once. +Such rumblings and thunderings, such hot vapors and gases come from +the cracks in the ground, that the Indians thought this was the +workshop where the bad spirit which white people call the devil used +to live and work. The deeper one goes into this canon, the hotter and +noisier it gets. All round are signs telling where it is dangerous +to step, while the ground is hot, and boiling water runs by in little +streams. Steam rises from many pools, and the sulphur smell almost +chokes one. Another curious spring, called the devil's inkstand, seems +full of ink. Mount St. Helena, near here, is a dead or extinct +volcano, and probably there are fires in the earth under this region +which keep up these steam and sulphur springs. + +[Illustration: NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ.] + +Many of the Sierra summits are capped with volcanic rock, and Lassen's +Peak and Mount Shasta are extinct volcanoes. There are hot springs and +cracks from which steam and sulphur rise on both of these mountains, +and as earthquakes often shake the earth in different parts of the +state we know that underground fires are still at work. A great piece +of land on Mount San Jacinto in Southern California lately sank down +about a hundred feet, and cracks both deep and wide show that some +force from below gave a thorough shaking-up to that part of the state. + +Mono, Owen's, and several other large lakes are the "sinks" into which +rivers flow and lose themselves in the sandy or marshy shores. These +lakes have soda or salt in their waters, and great stretches of dry +alkali lands around them. The famous Death Valley is a dry lake of +this kind where the sun beats down on the white alkali plain till it +is almost certain death to try to cross it without a guide. The +Salton Sea is a dry lake where almost pure salt is dug out, and great +quantities of borax and of soda are found in other beds, of dried-up +streams and lakes. + +But to tell of all the curious things nature has to show us in +California,--of the forests of petrified trees, of the caverns cut out +of the ocean cliffs by restless waves, or of those in the mountains or +the Modoc lava-beds,--well, you will see most of them, let us hope, in +your vacations. A large book might be given to the wonderful sights +of this great state, and it may be your fortune to visit and so always +remember a few we have named. + + + +PRONOUNCING VOCABULARY + +Alta (ael'-ta). +Amador (am'-a-dore). +Alvarado (al-va-rae'-do). +Ayala (ae-yae'-la). +Bernal (ber-nal'). +Bodega (bo-d[=a]'-ga). +Cabrillo (ka-breel'-yo). +Calaveras (kal-a-v[=a]'-ras). +Carmel (kar'-mel). +Castro (kas'-tro). +Cortes (kor'-tez). +Coloma (ko-lo'-ma). +Diegueno (de-[=a]-gw[=a]n'-yo). +Farallones (f[)a]r'-a-lones). +Figueroa (fi-gwa-ro'-a). +Franciscan (fran-cis'-can). +Galvez (gal'-ves). +Gringos (gring'-gos). +Guerrero (gur-r[=a]'-ro). +Junipero Serra (h[=u]-nip'-er-o ser'-ra). +Klamath (klam'-eth). +Los Angeles (los an'-ga-lees). +Marin (ma-rin'). +Mariposa (mar-e-po'-sa). +Martinez (mar-tee'-nes). +Mechoopdas (me-choop'-das). +Mission Dolores (mis'-sion do-l[=o]r'-es). +Modocs (mo'-docs). +Monterey (mon-ta-ray'). +Noe (no'-a). +Ortega (or-t[=a]'-ga). +Pacheco (pae-ch[=a]'-ko). +Padres (pa'-drays). +Palou (pa'-loo). +Pio Pico (pe'-o pe'-ko). +Placerville (pl[)a]s'-er-vil). +Point Reyes (rays). +Pomos (po'-mos). +Portola (por-to'-la). +San Antonio (san an-t[=o]-ni-[=o]). +Sanchez (san'-ches). +San Carlos (san kar'-l[=o]s). +San Diego (san de-[=a]'-go). +San Fernando (san fer-nan'-do). +San Francisco (san fran-cis'-co). +San Gabriel (san ga-brell'). +San Jacinto (san ha-sin'-to). +San Joaquin (san waw-keen'). +San Jose (san ho-say'). +San Juan Bautista (san wawn ba-tis'-ta). +San Juan Capistrano (san wawn kap-is-tra'-no). +San Luis Obispo (san loo-is o-bis'-po). +San Miguel (san mig-gell'). +Santa Barbara (san'-ta bar'-ba-ra). +Santa Catalina (san'-ta kat-a-lee'-na). +Santa Cruz (san'-ta krooz). +Santa Lucia (san'-ta loo-she'-a). +Santa Ysabel (san'-ta [=e]'-sa-bel). +Santa Ynez (san'-ta e'-nes). +Sausalito (saw-sa-lee'-to). +Sierras (see-er'-ras). +Siskiyous (sis'-ke-yous). +Sonoma (so-no'-ma). +Sutter (s[)u]t'-ter). +Tahoe (tae'-ho). +Tamalpais (tarm'-el-pies). +Tenaya (te-ni'-ya). +Tulare (too-lar'-ee). +Tuolumne (too-ol'-um-ee). +Ukiah (u-ki'-ah). +Vallejo (vael-y[=a]'-ho). +Viscaino (vees-kae-e'-no). +Wawona (wa-wo'-na). +Yerba Buena (yer'-ba bw[=a]'-na). +Yosemite (yo sem'-e-tee). + +abalone (ab-a-lo'-nee). +adobe (a-do'-bee). +alcalde (al-kal'-day). +arrastra (ar-ras'-tra). +burro (boo'-ro). +canon (can'-yon). +carne seca (kar'-n[=a] s[=a]'-ka). +cascarone (kas-ka-ro'-na). +chaparral (shap-per-ral'). +coyote (ki-o'-tee). +corral (kor-ral'). +debris (day-bree'). +el toro (el to'-ro). +fandango (fan-dang'-go). +frijoles (free-yo'-lays). +galleon (gal'-le-on). +madrono (ma-dron'-yo). +manzanita (man-zan-ee'-ta). +mantilla (man-tee'-ya). +mahala (ma-ha'-la). +mesa (m[=a]'-sa). +mustangs (mus'-tangs), +presidio (pr[=a]-se'-de-o). +pueblos (p[=u]-[=a]'-blos), +ranche (ransh). +rancheria (ran-sha-ree'-a). +rodeos (ro-da'-os). +senora (s[=a]n-yo'-ra). +senoritas (s[=a]n-yor-ee'-tas). +sombrero (som-br[=a]'-ro). +sequoias (see-kwoy'-as). +serape (ser-ae'-pay). +teredo (te-r[=e]'-do). +temescal (tem-es-kal'). +tortillas (tor-tee'-yas). +tule (too'-lee). +vaqueros (vae-ka'-ros). + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Stories of California, by Ella M. 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